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University of Illinois Library 30DIA, ""UHOT, L161— O-1096 ~ I Maps. 3 vols. 8 vo. 4i:^T*"" ''ANT. , D.B. June, 1871. JOtilf! lY, ALBEMARLE STREET. Ml teave: NORTH SOUTI 1 swit: FRANi PORTl NORT A cent; A ROME SOUTI SICIU o EGYF ] GREEI HANI D HANI HANI DEN^^ RUSS3 INDii HOLY KNAl KNAl KNAB KNAP JU7 PUPULAK irBIE'3 INTELLECTUAL Powers. Fcap. 8vo. 3». 6d. — PHILOSOPHY OP THE Moral Fielings. Fcap. 8vo. ^SOP'S FABLfeS. By Rur. Thomas James. With 100 Woodcuts. Post 8to. 2s. 6d. BTBON'S CHILDE HAROLD. Wood- outs. Fcap. 8vo. Is. & 2«. 6d. COLERIDGE'S TABLE TALK. Por- trait. Fcap. 8vo. '6s. td. DAVY'S CONSOLATIONS IN TRA- TiL. Woodcuts. Fcap. 8vo. 3*. Oti. SALMONIA. Fcap. 8vo. Ss. 6d. GIFPARD'S DEEDS OF NAVAL Daring. Fcap. Svo. Ss. 6d. HOLLWAY'S MONTH IN NORWAY Fcap. Svo. 2*. JESSE'S GLEANINGS IN NATURAL History. Woodcuts. Fcap. 8yo. LIVINGSTONE'S TRAVELS IN SOUTH At RICA. Woodcuts. PoatSvo. 6«. LOCKHART'S ANCIENT SPANISH Ballads. Woodcuts. Post Svo. 5,. 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The Editor of the Handbook for Italy is very solicitous to be favoured with corrections of any mistakes and omissions which may be discovered by persons who have made use of the book. Those communications especially will be welcomed which are founded upon personal knowledge, and accompanied by the name of the writer to authenticate them. Travellers willing to make such communications are requested to have the kindness to address them to the Editor of the Handbook, care of Mr. Murray, Albemarle Street. Caution to Teavellees. — By Act of Parliament, the introduction into England oi foreign pirated Editions of the works of British authors, in which the copyright subsists, is totally proJiibited. Travellers will therefore bear in mind that even a single copy is contraband, and is Liable to seizure at the English Custom-house. Caution to Innkeepees and othees. — The Editor of the Handbooks has learned from various quarters that persons have been extorting money from innkeepers, tradespeople, artists, and others, on the Continent, under pretext of procuring favourable notices of them and their estabUshments in the Handbooks for Travellers, or in Gruides, which, being artfully styled " livres rouges," are passed off by these impostors as the red Handbooks published by Mr. Murray. The Publisher, therefore, thinks proper to warn all whom it may concern, that recommendations in the Handbooks are not to be obtained by sucli means, and that the persons alluded to are not only unauthorised, but being totally unknown to him are little better than swindlers. All those, therefore, who place confidence in such promises, or in persons who assume to be agents of the Publisher, demanding money as the price of recom- mendations in the Handbooks, may rest assured that they will be defrauded without attaining their object. — 1869. *^* No attention can be paid to letters from Hotel-keepers in praise of their inns; the postage of them being onerous, they will be refused. HANDBOOK TEAYELLERS IN NOllTHEM ITALY. COMPRISING PIEDMONT, LIGUKIA, LOMBAEDY, VENETIA, PAEMA, MODENA, AND EOMAGNA. CAREFULLY REVISED TO THE PRESENT TIME. WITH A TRAVELLING MAP AND SIXTEEN PLANS OF TOWNS. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. PARIS: A. W. GALIGNANI & CO.; XAVIER. FLORENCE: GOODBAN. MILAN: ARTARIA & SON. TURIN: MAGGL VENICE: MUNSTER. ROME: PIALE; SPITHOVER. NAPLES: DORANT. 1869. The right of Translation is rtservtd THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAV^'S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF THE FOLLOWING AGENTS : — Germany y Eolland, and Belgium, AIX-LA- 1 CHAPELLE f AMSTKROAM . AisrVVERP BADEN-BADEN KKRLIN . BRUSSELS CARLSRUHE . COLOGNE. DRESDEN FRANKFURT . GRATZ THE HAGUE . HAMRUHG HEIDELBERG. I. A. MAYER. J. MULLER.— W. KTRBERGER MAX. KORNICKER. D. R. MARX. ASHRR. MUQ(^ARDT.— KIESSLING & CO. A. BIEI-EFRLD. GUKVEN.— NELTE & CO. ARNOLD. C. JUG EL. LEUSCHNRR A LUBENSKY. NIJHOFF & CO. MAUKE SOHNE. MOHR. KISSTNGEN LEIPZIG . LUXEMBOURG MANNHEIM . MUNICH . PRAGUE . ROTTERDAM , STUTTGART , TRIESTE . VIENNA . WIESBADEN C. JUGEL- BROCKHAUS.— DtJRR. RliCK. ART ARIA & FONTAINE.— LOFFLER.-KOTTRR. LITERARISCH-ARTISTISCHE ANSTALT.— I. PALM. SCHRAG— ZEISER. HARTLEBEN.— G.HECKENAaT. — OSTERLAMM.— RATH. . CALVE KRAMERS.— PETRI. P. NEFF. MUNSTER.— COEN. C. GEROLD.— BRAUMULLEK. KREIDEL. Siultzerland, BASLE . BERNE . COIRE CONSTANCE GENEVA . LAUSANNE LUCERNE. BOLOGNA FLORENCE GENOA . LEGHORN LUCCA MANTUA. MILAN . MODENA , NAPLES . PALERMO AMIENS . ANGERS . AVIGNON AVRANCHES . BAYONNE BORDEAU-'< . BOULOGNE . BREST . CAEN CALAIS . CANNES . CHERBOURG DlEi'PE . DINANT . DOUAl DUNKERQUE , GRENOBLE . HAVRE . LILLE LYONS . MARSEILLES H. GEORG — H. AMBERGER. DALP— lEUT & REINERT. GRUBENMANN. MEClv. H. GEORG.— DESROGIS.- CH ERBU LI EZ.— MONROE.— GHISLETTY. T. ROUSSY. F. KAISER. NEUCHATEL . GERSTER. SCHAFFHAUSEN HI RTER. SOLEURE. ST. GALLEN ZURICH . MARS1GLI & ROCCHI. GOODBAN. GRONDONA & CO.— ANTOINE HEUF. MAZZAIOLI. F. BARON. NEGRETTI. ARTARIA. — DUMOLARD. FR>,RES.— G. BRIGOLA. L. RONCHT. VINCRNZI & ROSSI. DO RANT. PEDONE. Fr CARON BARASSE'. CLE'MENT ST. JUST. ANFRAY. JAYMEBON.— LASSERRE. , CHAUMAS.— MULLER.— SAU- VAT.— FERET. WATEL.— MERRIDEW. , HE BERT. BO ISA R D. — LEGOST, — CLE- RISSE'. RIGAUX CAUX. BARBERY FRERES.— ROBANDY. . Mile. LECOUFFLET. . MARAIS. , COSTE. ^ . JaCQUART.— LEMALE. . VANOENBUSSCHE. , VELLOT ET COM P. . BOURDIGNON.— FOUCHER.— Mmk. buys. , BE'GHIN. . AYNE' FILS.— SCHEURING.— ME'RA. , CAMOIN FRERES.— MEUNIER. Itahj, PARMA . PISA . PERUGIA. ROME JENT. HUBER, H. FUSSLT ACQ.- MEYER & ZELLER. H. F. LEUTHOLD, Post- Btrasse. J.ZANGHIERl. NI'^TRI.— JOS. VANNUCCHl. VINCENZ. BARTELLl. SPITHOVER.— PIALE.— MONALDINI. ONORATO POKRl. MAGGI — L. BEUF.-MA- RIETTl.— BOCCA FRERES. MUNSTER. — COEN.— MEINERS. , H. F. MUNSTER.— MEINERS. 'ance. METZ MONTPELLIER MULHOUSE . NANC'Y . NANTES . NICE ORLEANS. PARIS PAU . PERPIGNAN . REIMS ROCHEFORT . ROUEN . SAUMUR . ST. ETIENNE . ST. MALO. ST. QUENTIN . STRASBURG . TOULON . TOULOUSE TOURS ,. TROYES . WARION. LEVALLE. RISLER. GONET. PETIPAS.-POIRIER LEGROS. —ANDRE'. BARBERY FRERES.— JOUGLA. GATINEAU.— PESTY. GALIGNANI.— XAVIER AND EOYVEAU. LA FON. JULIA FRERES. BRISSART RINET.— GROFFROY.-GIRET. BOnCARD. LERRUMENT,— HAULARD. GAULTIER BRIE' RE. DELARUE. HUE. DOLOY. TREUTTEL ET WURT'/..— GRUCKER.-DERIVAUX. MONGE ETVILLAMIS. GIMET & COTELLP:. G FORGET. LALOY.— DUFEY ROBERT. Spain and Portvgal, ST. PETERS- } BURG. J Malta. MUIR. Bussia. MRS. WATKIN.— WOLFF. Ionian Islands, CORFU, J. W. TAYLOR. MOSCOW ODESSA W. GAUTIER— DEURNER - , CAMOIN FRERES. Constantinople WICK. Greece. ATHENS, A NAST. 3 V^ PREFACE. ^ Since the publication of the last edition of this work, the Editor has had occasion to revisit most of the localities described in it, and, while correcting some omissions and inaccuracies that remained, to add new information useful to the traveller. The changes that have taken place in the political map of the Peninsula, arising out of the great events of 1859 — the establishment of an United Italy — the extension of Railways — and the reclassification of several of the most important Public Collections connected with the Fine Arts — liave rendered considerable changes necessary ; not only as regards the general arrangement, but in the description of most of the great centres of population. For the greater convenience of the travelling public, it has been con- sidered advisable to adopt a different arrangement of the materials contained in the two first volumes of the Eandhoohs of Italy. Instead of including Tuscany as heretofore in that of Northern, and the Romagna in that of Central Italy, it has appeared more useful to confine the present volume to the great natural division of the Peninsula, the Valley of the Po, em- bracing the countries between the Alps, the Apennines, and the Adriatic ; and to the Ligurian Provinces. Great care has been taken to insert the latest and most correct in- formation on the several lines of communication, especially by means of Piailways ; to obtain the most trustworthy reports respecting Hotels (often conflicting) and accommodation for travellers generally ; to bring down the descriptions of the different public and private Collections of Works of Art so as to include the most recent changes effected in their arrangement, &c. ; Plans of the few Cities and Galleries omitted in former editions have been now inserted ; and all the Piailways in operation, or projected, have been laid down on the Maps, from the most trustworthy sources. It has been the Editor's endeavour to render the Handbooks of Italy as complete guides, to the countries they profess to describe, as exist m VI PREFACE. any language ; and it is his duty again to express his acknowledgments to the numerous friends both in Italy and at home, and to the several correspondents, who have aided him in his task by the information they have transmitted to him. It is in a great measure b}^ such means that works of this nature can lay claim to that degree of accuracy which the travelling public has a right to expect ; and he begs still to solicit of travellers, who may use these Handbooks, to transmit to him through his Publisher any alterations they may consider advisable to make here- after, founded upon information of a practical and useful nature obtained on the spot. J. B. P. London, April, 1869. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. PAGE 1. Plan of the Work — 2. Passports and Custom-houses — 3. Routes — 4. Modes and Expenses of TravelHng — 5. Couriers — 6. Sight-seeing ; Laquais de Place and Ciceroni — 7. Money — 8. Inns and Accom- modations — 9. Books — 10. Maps of Italy — 11. Objects to be no- ticed — 12. Music — 13. Skeleton Tours ix Tables of Foreign Coins reduced into the different Currencies of Italy, at the par of exchange ---------- xxxii Table 1. English Money reduced to an equivalent Yalue in the Money of the several States of North Italy xxxiii Table 2. Currency of the different Italian States reduced into EngHsh Money, at the par of exchange -------- xxxiv Table 3. Showing the Yalue of the different Measures of Distances em- ployed in Italy, reduced to English statute Miles, Eurlongs, and Yards xxxv Abbreviations, &c., employed in the Handbook xxxvi Sect. I.— PIEDMONT AND SARDINIAN LOMBARDY. Preliminary Information — Tables of Money, Weights, and Measures - 1 Routes 7 Sect. II.— ITALIAN DOMINIONS ON THE MEDITERRA- NEAN—THE RIYIERA DI PONENTE, AND RIYIERA DI LEYANTE — TERRITORIES OF NICE, MONACO, AND DUCHY OF GENOA. Preliminary Information 81 Routes 86 Sect. III.— LOMBARDY. Preliminary Information 139 Routes 148 CONTENTS. Sect. IY.-.YEXETIAN PROVINCES. PAas Preliminary Information --------- 291 Routes 292 Sect, v.— duchies OF PARMA AND PIACENZA. Preliminary Information --------- 445 Routes 446 Sect. YL— DUCHY OF MODENA. Preliminary Information 477 Routes 478 Sect. YIL— LA ROMAGNA. Preliminary Information 489 Routes 490 Index 607 LIST OF PLANS, &c. Plan Map PAGE of Turin 14,15 Nice 87 Genoa 102, 103 Milan 174, 175 Brera Gallery at Milan 214 Pavia 239 Brescia 267 Yerona 295 Pinacoteca at Yerona 302 Mantua 321 Ducal Palace in Mantua 326 Yicenza 337 Padua 350 Yenice 372,373 Pinacoteca at Yenice 422 Parma 459 Pinacoteca at Parma 467 Modena 481 Ferrara 492 Pinacoteca at Ferrara 502 Bologna 511 Pinacoteca at Bologna 516 Ravenna 566 Pinacoteca at Forli - . • • 597 of North Italy .. .♦ .. at the end. INTRODUCTION. 1. Plan of the Work. — 2. Passports and Custom-houses, — 3. P,outes> -^ 4. Modes and Expenses of Travelling. — 5. Couriers. — 6. Sightseeing; Laquais de Place and Ciceroni. — 7. Money. — 8. Inns and Accommodations^ — 9. BooTcs. — 10. Maps of Italy. — 11. Objects to he noticed. — 12. Music, — 13. Skeleton Tours. — Tables of Foreign Coins reduced into the different Currencies of Italy. 1. — Plan of the Work. This eleventh edition of the Handbook of N. Italy has been revised with a view of making it a guide to the most remarkable places of Northern Italy, and drawing the attention of the traveller to the objects best worthy of being noticed. Reflections not contributing to this end have been excluded : those who desire remarks upon Italy can find books containing them in plenty, from Forsyth down to the latest modern tourist. Of the objects here pointed out to the traveller, most have long been thought worthy of inspection and admiration ; some, however, have not, but have risen into notice through a periodical fluctuation of taste and opinions. These latter are inserted, because some travellers will wish to see them, and others ought, in order that they may judge for themselves, and avoid being im- posed upon. The compiler of a Handbook is happily relieved, by the necessity of being useful, from the pursuit of that originality of a tourist which consists in omitting to notice great works because they have been noticed by others, and in crying up some object which has hitherto been deservedly passed over. It would, moreover, be out of place for the editor of a Guidebook of Italy to be ambitious of composing an original work. Italy has been so long studied, that all its most interesting sites and works have been re- peatedly and carefully described ; and so much has been written, and by persons of ability and acquirements, that the most difficult task is that of compiling and of selecting materials. Although the Editor has had the benefit of repeated personal examination during well nigh half a century, he has not scrupled to use freely the nume- rous works which treat upon the subject. As it is scarcely possible, in the compass of a Handbook, where space is so valuable, to indicate where passages have been extracted from, the following works are here mentioned as those which have been chiefly used, in order to protect the Editor from the charge of borrowing without acknowledgment, and that the traveller may, if he wishes, seek in them further information. In architecture, Mr. Gaily Knight's work on the Ecclesiastical Architecture of Italy, has been referred to in most X 1. — Plan of the Work, In trod, cases in which the buildings mentioned in this work have been described by him, and his descriptions and observations are frequently given. Pas^ sages from Woods' ' Letters from an Architect ' have been sometimesi inserted, particularly those relating to the architecture of Palladio and Scamozzi at Vicenza and Venice, a subject he has particularly studied. Some of Mr. Gwilt's descriptions of celebrated buildings have been taken from his ' Encyclopedia of Architecture.' For much of the description of the Certosa of Pavia and the palaces at Mantua, and of some other places, the Editor is indebted to the magnificent volume entitled * La Certosa de Pavia,' published at Milan, and to the work on ' Fresco Decorations and Stuccoes of Churches and Palaces in Italy during the Fifteenth and Six- teenth Centuries,* by Mr. Lewis Gruner. Considerable assistance has been derived from the Guides of nearly all the large towns of Northern Italy, printed for the use of the Scienziati Italiani, at their annual meetings. Those of Turin, Genoa, Milan, Padua, and Venice are elaborate works, and full of useful and interesting matter. Although we have endeavoured to apportion the extent of our remarks to the importance of the subjects described, we have considered it useful to place in the hands of our readers more detailed catalogues of the different galleries than appeared in the former editions of the Handbook, in many cases there being no printed catalogue at all, and in others where these catalogues are hand-lists which the traveller cannot carry away ; whilst many may be glad to preserve in their own language a kind of record of the objects they have seen during their artistical peregrinations, without being put to the inconvenience of making unnecessary notes. Ground- plans of all the public remarkable galleries, most made by the editor on the spot, have been also inserted. The historical and literary notices have been rendered as brief as possible. In a subsequent section (9) we have pointed out from what sources these deficiencies may be partly supplied. A few anecdotes and citations have been occasionally introduced, which, by creating an additional interest, may be useful in fixing the scene in the traveller's memory. 2. — Passports and Custom-houses. Every English traveller proceeding to Italy, or indeed to any part of the Continent before leaving London ought to procure a passport at the Foreign Office, which costs 2,9., it being the best certificate of Ids nationality. It will also be advisable to have inserted in the passport the number of persons composing a family, with the names of the servants, stating whether British subjects or foreigners! The Papal authorities require the visa of their own agents, which may be obtained at the mission in Paris, for which a fee of 3 frs. is charged. The Italian Government of Italy has abolished the necessity of all visas to passports issued by the British and United States Secretaries of State.* * Passports are issued daily at the Foreign Office, on the recommendation of any banking firm or constituted authority addressed to the Secretary of State. In order to save the traveller trouble, agencies have been established for procuring the several visas and the passport itself on In trod. 2. — Passports and Custom-houses. — 3 Routes, xi With respect to Custom-houses : — When travellers arrive by Railway at the Italian frontiers, it is usual to have the luggage opened, and, if any cause for suspicion arises, carefully searched. But, in the case of persons giving an assurance that there is no prohibited article (such as snuff, tobacco, segars, which in any quantity are strictly prohihited, and the con- cealment of which will, if discovered, entail trouble and onnoyance) in the luggage, the examination will probably be dispensed with, or a few of the trunks opened and closed again. Persons only traversing Italy on their way to India by the lirindesi route may have their luggage sealed, which will prevent an examination from Susa to the port of embarkation. As to administering fees — as was once the case — the Italian custom-house officers would consider it an insult to be offered money. 3. — EOUTES. In the Handbooks of France, Switzerland, Savoy, and Southern Germany, most of the Routes leading into Italy have been described. Of late years the means of travelling over them have been greatly facilitated, both as regards time and expence, by the extension of railways ; most can now be travelled by railroad and by steamers, so that, even for a family, that once indispensable comfort, a travelling carriage, will prove a useless and ex- pensive incumbrance. The following embrace all the Routes by which the traveller can now ap- proach Italy ; the principal Stations have been inserted, with the time em- ployed on the road, whether by rail, coach, posting, or steamer. From this list the traveller will be able to select his own Itinerary — the expense of each will of course depend on the number of miles gone over, and which will be in proportion nearly to the times stated opposite each of the principal stations. Our calculations are made on the supposition that the traveller uses the quickest or express trains. On an average the expenditure for Uving at hotels may be estimated at 15 or 16 francs (12s. Od, or 13s. Od,) per diem for one person. Route \.— London, by Paris, Mont Cenis, to Turin. Hours. London to Paris, by Dover or Folkestone 10^ Paris to St. Michel en Maurienne Fares : — 1st class, 11. 8s. Od. 2nd do. 5/. 8s. Od. Distance .. .. 803 Eng. m. .w^„ x,^x x^ X , ^^^^ most expeditious of all the 7Rair)^"* -^'^^v.xiv.x ^11 ^,a.cvL4iiv^iiixc highways into Italy. From Turin St. Michel to Siisa (Coach or ' , ST*" •*'''oi \ '"'?*''''?'^ ?? 4^ hrs.. Post; over the Mont Cenis pass ^'^^"^ ™ •#' ^*^'"<'? i^J^^f, Bologna (in the spring and summer ' ',"o. k'^p -f. f «/" P f< ' °' months) about 10 (Or by Fell Railway in 5.^ hrs.) Susa to Turin (Rail) .. .. IJ Real time employed, 38 or 33 hrs. 1 2i by Rail to and Steamer from Genoa to Leghorn, to Rome by Rail, 26, and to Naples by Rail, 35|. transmitting to them the recommendation above alluded to, and for a trifling remuneration. Amongst those agents Messrs. Lee, 440, West Strand, and Messrs. Dorrell & Son, 15, Charing Cross, can be recommended as careful and trustworthy. 3. — Routes, In trod. KouTE 2. — By Paris, Geneva, the Simplon, and Lago Maggiore, to Milan. London to Paris (Rail and Steam) 10^ Paris to Geneva (Rail) .. .. ISg Geneva to Sion, by Lausanne . . 7 A rona (Coach or Post) .. ..22^ Milan (Rail by Novara, or to Sesto and from there by Rail) 3 Fares : — 1st class, 7Z. 7s. Od, 2nd do. 5^. 15s. Od. There is a somewhat more econo- mical route from Paris to Sion by Berne, but employing about the same time. Route 3. — Londonto Milan, by Ostend, Cologne, Basle, Lucerne, the St. Gothard, and Lago Maggiore. Hours. London to Cologne, by Dover and Ostend (Rail and Steam) . . 19 J Basle (Rail) 13 Tjucerne (Rail) 4 Fluellen (Steam) 3 Magadino (Coach or Post) .. 16 Aroiia (Steam) 44 Milan (Rail) 3^ 63 Route 4. — London to Milan,hy Paris, Basle, Lucerne, the St. Gothard, &c. London to Paris 10 J Paris to Basle direct (Rail) . . 12^ Basle to Milan, as by Rte. 3 . . 30 J 53i Route 5. — London to 3Iilan,hj Paris, Basle, Zurich, the Splugen, and Lake of Como. London to Basle, as in Rte. 4 . . 23 Zurich (Rail) 3,^ Coire (Rail) .. .. .. ,. .. 5| Splugen to Colico (Coach & Post) 16 Como (Steam) 3h Milan (Rail) IJ 53 Fares : — 1st class, 71. 3'?. Od. 2nd do. 5L 9s. Od. Or, by Belinzona, Lago Maggiore, &c. Hours, To Coire, by last Route . . . . 32 Magadino (Coach) 16 Arena (Diligence and Steam) 4^ Milan 3^ 65J Route 6. — London to Milan, by Ostend, Brussels, Luxembourg, Basle, Lu- cerne, and the St. Gothard. London to Brussels, by Dover and Ostend lO^ Brussels by Luxembourg and Stras- burg to Basle (Rail) .. .. 18J Basle to Lucerne (Rail) .. .. 4 Lucerne to Magadine, by the St. Gothard (Steam and Diligence) 19 Bellinzona to Milan, by Arona (Steam and Rail) 7k 5iU Fares : — 1st class, abt. 71. 3s. Od. 2nd do. 51. 5s. Od. Route 7. — London to Milan, by Brus- sels, Basle, Zurich, Coire, the Splugen Pass, and Lake of Como. London to Basle, as in Rte. 6 29 Basle to Coire (Rail) 9 Coire to Chiavenna and Colico (Post and Diligence) . . . . 16 Colico to Como (Steamer) .. .. i^k Como to Milan ll 59 Fares : — 1st class, abt. 71. Os. (Id. „ 2nd do. 5?. 5s. 6d. These two routes will be the most agreeable and economical for persons not wishing to pass through Paris. In trod. -Routes, KouTE 8. — London to Turin and Milan, by Brussels, Basle, Geneva, and the Mont Cenis. Hours. London to Basle, as in Etc. 6 . . 29^ Basle to Geneva (Rail) .. .. 10^ Geneva to Turin 10| Turin to Milan oj Fares : — 1st class, 7L 17s\ Od. 2nd do. 51 18s. 4:d. 54: Route 9. — London to Milan, by Brus- sels, Battle, Lausanne, Sion, the Simplon Pass, and Lago Maggiore. London to Basle, as in Ete. 6 . . 29 Basle to Sierre, by Lausanne, St, Maurice, Sion (Rail) .. ..12 Sierre to Arona, by the Simplon (Diligence) 21 Arona to Milan 3 Fares : -1st class, 11. 10s. OcZ. 2nd do. 51. 14s. Qd. 65 Route 10. — London to Verona, by Os- tend, Cologne, Munich, Inspruck, and the Brenner Pass. liOndon, by Ostend and Dover, to Cologne (Rail and Steam) .. 19^ Munich (Rail) 15^ Yerona (Rail) 15| 49- Fares : — 1st class, 9L 7s. Od. * „ 2nd do. 11. Os. 0^. To Venice 54 Route \\.— London to Verona, by Paris, Strasbourg, Munich, Inspruck, and tlie Brenner Pass. London to Paris (Rail) Paris to Munich (Rail) Munich to Verona (Rail) Fares : — 1st class, 9Z. 5s. Od. 2nd do. ^l. 18s. U, 10.1 28i 15 49 Route 12. — London to Trieste and Venice, by Paris, Strasburg, Munich, Vienna, and Laibach. Hours. London to Munich (Rte. 11) . . 34 Munich to Vienna 13 Vienna to Trieste 22f Fares:— Ist class, 111. 10s. Od. ^^^ 2nd do. SI. 8s. Od. To Venice 78 The journey from London to Trieste by Paris, Turin, Milan, and Venice, can be performed in 59 hrs. actual travelling, and at an expense of — 1st class, 91. 15s,, or in 3 days with una- voidable detentions from London, and 2i from Paris. Route 13. — London to Trieste and Venice, by Ostend, Cologne, Munich, Vienna, Laibach, &c. London to Cologne 19J Cologne to Munich 152- Miniich to Vienna 18 Vienna to Trieste 22| Fares :— 1st class, 10?, 18s. Od, '^^* „ 2nd do. 8Z. 8s. Od. London to Venice 78 Route 14. — Jjondon to Nice, by Paris Marseilles, and Toulon. London to Paris (Rail and Steam) 10 J Marseilles (Rail) 16^ Nice (Rail) 7 Fares :— 1st class, 11. 10s. Od. ^"^ 2nd do. 51. 14s. Od. Route 14a. — London to Venice and Trieste, by Paris, Munich, Inspruck, the Brenner Pass, and Verona. London to Verona (Rte. 11) .. 53 Verona to Venice 3|- Venice to Trieste 8 J 64f London to Venice by this route, 56 hrs. 3. — Routes, In trod. Route 15. — London to Florence, by Paris, Marseilles, and Leghorn. Hours. London to Marseilles, as in Ete. 14 27 Leghorn (Steam) 27^ Florence (Eail) 3 Fares : — 1st class, lOZ. 15s. Oc?. „ 2nd do., i less. 57J EouTE 16. — London to Florence, by Turin, Bologna, Pistoia. 882 Eng. miles. London to Turin (Eail and Coach) 39 J Bologna (Eail) 7 Florence (Eail) SJ Fares :— 1st class, 9L Qs. U. ^^i „ 2nd do., Ql. 17s. M. EouTE 17. — London to Florence, by Turin and Genoa. . .. 321 . .. U London to Turin (Eail) Genoa (Eail) Leghorn (Steam) . . Florence Fares :— 1st class, 9Z. 5s. Od, 2nd do. 48 EouTE 18. — London to Genoa, by Paris and Turin. 703 Eng. miles. London to Turin (Ete. 1) .. .. 32J Turin to Genoa 4J Fares : — 1st class, 11. 10s. Od. 37 EouTE 19. — London to Genoa, by Brus- sels, Basle, and Milan. London to Arona, by Basle and Lucerne (Ete. 6) 56 Arona to Genoa 5 Fares : — 1st class, 11. 6s. Od. 2nd do. 5/. lis. Od, 61 EouTE 20. — London to Rome, by Mar- seilles and Civita Vecchia. Hours . London to Marseilles 27 1 Marseilles to Civita Vecchia (Steam) 30 Eome 2i Fares :— 1st class, 12Z. 9s. Od. 60 EouTE 21. — London to Rome, by Turin. To Turin, by Paris (Ete. 1) .. 32^ Leghorn 13 Eome lOf Fares : — 1st class. 111. Os. Od. 2nd class, 81. 15s. Od. 63 EouTE 22. — London to Rome by Paris, Munich, the Brenner Pass, Verona, and Florence. London to Munich (Ete. 11) Munich to Inspruck, . . . . ) Inspruck to Verona . . . . j Verona to Florence Florence to Eome and Perugia 34 15 llf m Fares : — 1st class, 2nd do. IIZ. 16s. Od. 81. lis. 6d. T31 EouTE 23. — London to Rome, by Munich, the Brenner Pass, Verona, Bologna, and Ancona. London to Verona (Ete. 22). Verona to Bologna (Eail) . Bologna to Ancona . . Ancona to Eome 50f 5 llf Fares : — 1st class, 121. Os. 6d. 2nd do. 8Z. 15s. OJ. 73f By way of Ostend and Cologne to Munich will make a difference of about 3 hrs. in addition. To each of the above times to Eome may be added 8^ hrs. to reach Naples. latrod. 4. — Modes of Travelling — Posting — Vetturini. XV RoiTE 24. — London to Rome, by Nice, Genoa, and Leghorn and Rail to Rome. London to Paris Paris to Nice (Rte. 14) . . Nice to Genoa (Sea) Genoa to Leghorn (Sea) Leo^horn to Rome . . Paris, (Sea), Hours. 2:n 9 8 lOf 61$ Fares :— 1st class, 11?. C,s. 6d. 2nd do. 9?. 10s. Od. The most expeditious of all routes to Rome, but entailing a detention of 14 hrs. at Nice, 4 at Genoa, and 4 at Leghorn. Shortest Routes to different towns in Italy — from London — in time ab- solutely employed in travelling, and by quickest trains. Ete, Hours. To Turin .. .. 1 .. .. 32^ Genoa .. .. 1 .. ..37 Milan 1 .. .. 36V Venice 47 Bologna .. .. 1 .. ..45 Florence 51 Rome 21 .. .. 63 Naples 72 4. — Modes of Travelling — Expenses. Posting. — Since the completion of railways travelling by Post has been abandoned on all the great routes ; where it dees exist in Northern Italy still the regulations in force in the Piedmontese Provinces (§ 5, p. 5) are in force. Vetturini. — From the same cause fewer families find it now neces- sary to encumber themselves with their own carriages, and have recourse to those of vetturini, which, as to neatness and comfort, are improved, although their charges have risen in proportion. In making an agree- ment it is the custom for the vetturino to give his employer a deposit, caparra, or handsel, a small sum as a security for the due perform- ance of his contract ; and, whether the journey be shorter or longer, this precaution should never be neglected. There are three varieties in this mode of travelling : — 1st, Taking a seat in a carriage jointly with other parties. These are usually people of the country ; and it is a mode of journeying which can only suit a single male traveller, and even he must be one who is not very particular as to comforts. You must of course take your meals entirely at the discretion of the driver, who contracts to furnish board and lodging : your companions are fre- quently disagreeable ; and none of the regulations which prevent annoy- ance in a diligence apply to these private vehicles. 2nd, Hiring a car- riage for a party, — a very convenient mode of travelling for those who are not much pressed for time, A party of six persons may be conveyed in a very decent carriage, with good horses, and an intelligent and civil driver, at an expense of about 60 francs per diem, going from 30 to 40 miles ; and if you get a return carriage (which at Nice or Genoa one sometimes can) for a little less. When a carriage is thus hired, the vetturino will, if required, contract to provide board and lodging. In Tuscany and the Papal States this answers very well. In other parts it is neither needful nor advis- able, and you should stipulate that you are to go to what houses you please. xvi 4. — Diligences — Railways, In trod. Also alivays sign an agreement in writing expressing the hire, the time within which the vetturino is to perform the journey, the stay he is to make at each place, and the daily indemnity to which he will be entitled in case of detention on the part of the traveller, and make the vetturino sign the duplicate. Two forms of such documents, with directions for filling them up, will be found in Murray's * Handbook of Travel Talk ' — one for a traveller who enoages a single place, the other for a party contracting for the hire of a whole carriage. If the driver gives you satisfaction, he expects a buona mano, about 3 or 4 francs per diem. The 3rd mode is for one or two individuals to hire a calessa or other small and light carriage, generally for short distances, and for not more than a day or two. This is often very convenient in making out pieces of a journey, particularly for the purpose of seeing places where the diligence does not stop, but it is liable to some inconvenience. The vetturini who do these jobs are usually of an inferior class, and will often attempt to play tricks upon the traveller, some^ times refusing to go as far as the intended point, sometimes transferring liim to another vetturino, and generally contriving, with much ingenuity, to find a pretext for placing some other companion in the vacant seat beside you. Diligences. — The number of these conveyances has very much diminished in consequence of the extension of railways. The most important now are : — Between Turin and Nice, or rather from the railway station at Cuneo, crossing the Col di Tenda ; from Nice to Savona, along the Riviera di Ponente ; from. Genoa, or rather from Sestri di Levante, to Spezia, along the Riviera di Levante ; from (>omo to Lecco ; from Cremona to Parma and Piacenza ; and from Parma to Sarzana across the Apennines by Cisa J^ass. There are regular conveyances from almost all the larger towns to the localities in the vicinity. Such are the so-called diligences from Bergamo to the Val Brembana, Brescia to the Val Camonica and Lake of Iseo, Vicenza to Scio and Bassano, Treviso to Belluno, Mantua to Este, Faenza to Florence, by Marradi, &c. Bailways. — Numerous railroads have been opened of late years in Northern Italy; indeed this country now is little behind others on the Continent as regards railway communication. A short line from Milan to Monza and Como (28 English miles). The great hne from Milan to Venice, through Bergamo, Brescia, Verona, Vicenza, and Padua, with lines from Mestre to Trieste and Vienna, by Treviso, Pordenone, and Udine ; from Verona to Mantua ; and from Verona to Bolzano ( Botzen) in the Tyrol by Roveredo and Trento and fronl Bolzano across the Brenner pass to Inspruck and Munich. The railway from Turin to Genoa by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi, and, piercing the central ridge of the Apennines by the great tunnel of Busalla, performs the whole distance from Turin in 4 hours. From Alessandria to Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, Rimini, and Ancona, this line is now open to Brindisi, Gioja, and Taranto, and hence with branch lines to Maglie on the way to Otranto and Galipoli, and to Naples by way of Foggia and Benevento ; from Ancona to Rome through Foligno, Spoleto, and Terni. The line from Alessandria to Arona, on the Lago Maggiore, crossing the Po at Valenza, from the main In trod. 4. — Railways — Expenses. xvii Turin and Genoa trunk, is in activity, and, when prolonged into Switzer- land as is proposed, will secure to Genoa a s^reat part of the trade of that country, to the detriment of Marseilles. The line from Turin to Cuneo is also open as well as those from Turin to Susa and Pinerolo. That from Turin to Vercelli, Novara, and Milan, with branches to Ivrea, Biella, and the Lake of Orta on one side, and from Vercelli to Casale, Valenza, and Alessandria, aftbrd, with the branch to Arona, the quickest means of reaching the Lago Maggiore and the eastern parts of Switzerland ; from Milan to Pavia and Novi by Casteggio, being now the shortest route between the Lombard capital and Genoa ; from Milan to Piacenza, where it joins the great line to Bologna and Lecce ; from Milan to Crema and Cremona. A line has been opened between Genoa and Savona along the Riviera di Ponente ; and the line is in progress from Nice to Genoa (but as yet only opened to traffic as far as Monaco on one side and to Savona on the other), and from the latter to Rome ; by Genoa, Spezzia, Pisa, Florence, and Leghorn ; from Castel Bolognese, on the Bologna and Ancona line, to Ravenna ; and from Bologna by Ferrara, Rovigo and Padua to Venice and Verona. Expenses of Travellivg in Italy, — No question is more frequently asked, and few so difficult to answer, as that relative to the expenditure to be incurred in a journey through, or an excursion into, Italy. Now that people of all classes are obliged to adopt the same means of locomotion — railways — a nearer approximation can be reached. 1'his will, however, depend on the length of ground gone over in a given time. For bachelors, who travel for the purpose of seeing the country, and whose railway expenses each day will consequently be inconsiderable, Ave should say that 20 francs ought to cover all charges, but of late years every item of expenditure has in- creased upwards of 30 per cent, in price. On this subject we cannot convey more practical information than what has been transmitted to us by one of our corres[)ondents, respecting the outlay for himself and party during a late autumnal tour. " Three gentlemen spent five weeks in Italy in the months of August and September. They started from Paris, went across the Mont Cenis through Turin and Genoa (staying at each place two nights) ; by Spezzia to Pisa, to Florence (stayed four nights) ; to Bologna (stayed two nights), Mantua, Venice (stayed five nights), Padua, Verona, Milan (two nights) ; crossed the St. Gothard, Lucerne (two nights), Basle, Vesone, and Paris ; and the total expenses averaged 23 francs per day for each person. They travelled by rail, first and second class, by vettura, and by diligence; and went to the best inns, and generally had a bottle of wine, besides the vin ordinaire at dinner. The travelling expenses amounted to 913 francs ; the living expenses to 1225 francs ; and the sundries, sights, visas of passports to 95 francs. The distance travelled exceeded 2000 miles." — {E, C) It is, however, to be remarked that all hotel expenses have increased since then. xviii 5. — Couriers, 6. — Sight-seeing — Laquais de Place. Intiod. 5. — Couriers. Couriers are an almost indispensable incumbrance for families, and to bachelors even, when ignorant of the language, although there are few respectable Inns, especially in the larger towns, where English is not now spoken. In another of these Handbooks (iV. Germany) we have entered into some detail on the uses of such servants, and on their necessary qualifications. As regards Italy, the best will certainly be those born in the country ; and we should strongly insist on a courier, to accompany a family into Italy, being an Italian. The Italian courier is in general active, ready to do or attend to any and every thing ; he will serve if required as a personal servant, and, understanding the language, will not refuse to act as guide in large towns — a thing rarely to be obtained of a German or a Swiss. There is a place of meeting or club of Italian couriers at No. 38, Golden-square, and one of Germans and Swiss, 12, Bury-street, St. James's, where travelling servants may be heard of, but in every case it will be well to have their characters from the persons they have travelled with, in addition to that from their club or office. As to honesty, they are all ready to take advantage of their master. In addition to receiving very high wages, 10 to 15 guineas a month, they are lodged and fed in reality at his expense, i. e. the masters of hotels are obliged to lodge and feed them, and, as a general rule, they are more difficult to satisfy in their requirements from hotel-keepers than their employers, whilst they receive an allowance or percentage of 5 per cent, and upwards from the proprietors, which comes, of course, out of their master's pocket. 6. — Sight-seeing — Laquais de Place and Ciceroni. There are few things more disagreeable than being led about by a laquais de place : and as plans of all the principal towns of Northern Italy are given in the present volume, his help will be less indispensable ; although, for persons ignorant of the language, his services will be useful, and in all cases lead to an economy in time, which to most travellers will be one of money. If you hire a laquais de place — 1st, Make him take you to every place you wish to see, not allowing yourself to be put off with, " non g^e niente da vedere^'' or the like ; for he has little notion of the value of any object ; and caprice, or some plan of his own, or mere laziness, will often make him try to put you off. 2nd, If you have plenty of time on your hands, it is as well to see every object which lie recommends, unless it should be evidently something quite absurd. For though in so doing he may have a job in view — some shop kept by a friend into which he wishes to seduce you, some ally of a custode for whom he wants to secure a huona mano, and thus usually occasions you a waste of time and money — yet he is sometimes the means of conducting you to an object which you would have been sorry not to have seen. A laquais de place should not be allowed to make bargains for you, as the .commission which ^the shopkeeper allows him will be, of course, paid out of your pocket. Introcl. 7. — Money, 8- — Inns and Accommodations, xix The churches, exceptiiii:; the cathedrals, which are always open, are, upon week-days, usually closed from twelve to three ; and during this interval, when the sacristan takes his dinner and his nap, it is hardly possible to obtain admittance. The clergy do not like to have the churches consi- dered as shows, nor are the congregations at all indifferent, as has been asserted, to the conduct of strangers, in walking about and talking during Divine service. It might perhaps too be suggested to our Protestant countrymen, that they are not protesting against Roman Catholic errors by behaving indecorously in churches ; and to reflect how they would like to see their own places of worship made objects of show during Divine service. In order to enable the tourist to dispense as much as possible with local guides, we have inserted in the description of every town of importance a list of the objects worth seeing, arranged in topographical order, by means of which, and the plans annexed, persons not pressed for time can visit, unaided by a laquais de place, the principal sights. It will always be a useful preliminary to the examination of any city to obtain a bird*s-eye view of it from some tall steeple or tower. 7. — Money. The traveller will find it to his advantage in Italy, even more than elsewhere, always to make his payments in the current coin of the country in which he is travelling. Of all foreign money, gold Napoleons will be the best to carry, as they pass current everywhere, and in many towns their value in the currency of the place is fixed by the authorities. The traveller going to Italy through France will do well to take as many with him as he conveniently can, for, when cashing his letters of credit, he will have to pay a premium for gold. He should get rid of his English sovereigns at Paris, Geneva, or Marseilles, where he will generally obtain 25 fr. in gold for them. Of late years the circidation of Bank Paper has become general, the discount on which varies from day to day, but it is nevertheless tlie legal tender in every part of the Italian kingdom, and which innkeepers or tradespeople cannot decline to accept in payment of their bills, although some of the former may insist on payment in gold and silver, which ought to be resisted (see Handbook of S. Italy), 8. — Inns and Accommodations. In the large towns of Italy the hotels have hitherto been superior to those in French provincial cities, being comfortable and well kept, as at Turin, Milan, Verona, Venice, Genoa, Pisa, the Bagni di Lucca, Leghorn, and Florence. In all these places the resort of foreigners has enabled the pro- prietors to meet the expenses required for such establishments ; but this, of course, cannot be the case in places which are not equally frequented, and here the traveller will very frequently have to content himself with the accommodation of a national or Italian inn. He must, firstly, w^hen this contingency arrives, not expect a choice and well-furnished larder. The stock of provisions is on the average but scanty, and the choice in this scanty stock limited. Most of the country wines are indifferent, poor, and sour, especially of late years, since the XX 8. — Inns and Accommodations, In trod, vine-disease has nearly destroyed the plant. Even in towns where the houses are very decent, he may be compelled to submit to meagre fare, if he arrives after others have been served. It must always be recollected also, that every chance of inconvenience is exceedingly increased by coming in late : — " Chi tardi arriva maV alloggia,''^ as the proverb truly says. Even in the sinaller towns, however, the hotels have been much improved of late years, and are fully on a par with those of France similarly situated. It will be advisable, especially when the travelling party is large, to order rooms beforehand by telegraph. Another source of annoyance, namely, the demand made upon your purse at inns, is sometimes more particularly vexatious in Italy, in conse- quence of the exactions being so often accompanied either by such good humour or such appeals to your generosity, almost to your charity, as to be more difficult to parry than downright rudeness or extortion. The best hotels, though not cheap, are not (compared with an English standard) ex- travagant, and, if any ladies are of the party, no house except a first-rate one should be used ; but bachelor travellers may frequently be comfort- ably accommodated, and at a lower charge, at houses of a second grade. One great secret of keeping down bills is to avoid having anything out of the common way. The tahle-d'^hote {tavola rotonda), where it exists (it is now common in the large towns), should be preferred. Ask the price of everything beforehand, and never scruple to bargain. This is an unpleasant operation to our English tastes, but it is the custom of the country : no offence is taken, or even suspected, and you are only considered an inexperienced traveller if you do not. Amongst other reasons, innkeepers always suppose that every Englishman likes to have the best of everything, especially at dinner : and therefore, even where no overcharge is practised, you are often put to needless expense by having more, and greater variety, than you desire or care for ; thus, by explaining the number of dishes you want, you bring them within bounds. In ordering wines, when you have chosen your kind, order the cheapest quality, for in small towns the chance is ten to one that they have no other, and you only pay for the name. If ex- orbitant charges be made, the best plan, if you have nerve enough, is to refuse to pay them, putting down a reasonable sum upon the table. Where expostulations have proved ineffectual, travellers not unfrequently enter cautions against the offending party in the travellers' books at other inns along the road, as a warning to others, and sometimes commu- nicate their complaints to the Editor of these Handbooks, requesting him to endeavour to redress the grievance by noting the offence in future edi- tions. Where the complaint has been properly authenticated, and the case shows palpable imposition and injustice on the part of the innkeeper, we have agreed^ in some instances, to place a note against the name of the house, or to omit it altogether. Travellers, however, who resort to this expedient, ought to reflect well beforehand whether they are quite in the right, and the innkeeper in the wrong ; and consider how a hasty accusation may inflict serious injury on an honest man and his family. The simple threat of making such a complaint may, in some cases, infuse a salutary terror, so as to produce the desired effect— a remedy of the abuse. Introd. 9. — Books, xxi The huona-mano to servants and waiters is a source of trouble ; to those who travel with couriers, advice is needless : to those who must decide for themselves what to give, the following suggestions are offered. Tlie best plan is to give (in the presence of some other servant) a sum to the head- waiter to be distributed. In the principal towns, for a single day, for one person, a franc will be suflicient. Of course the rate of payment is proi)ortionally reduced when the traveller's stay is prolonged, or where several persons are travelling in the same party ; and in small country inns about two-thirds of the above is enough. After a certain stay, the chambermaid, too, receives a gratuity. The excellent system of charging the gratuity to servants in the bill is become very general in Italy, and ought to he encouraged hy travellers. When dining at a Trattoria, 30 c. are enou£jh for the waiter. 9. — Books. A traveller whose mind is not previously prepared for a visit to Italy is deprived of the greatest portion of the pleasure (to sa}^ nothing of the in- struction) which he would otherwise derive. This observation is true of every part of the world ; but the extent and variety of interest attach- ing to the scenery, the cities, the churches, the castles, the palaces, the works of art in Italy, renders the amount of loss much heavier than in any other country ; we shall therefore venture to give a short list of the works which we would recommend, for the purpose of affording a small portion of the information which may be required. History. — To those who are willing to devote the time we should strongly recommend the attentive perusal of Sismondi's great w^ork, Histoire des Repuhliques Italiennes. As a narrator, Sismondi has peculiar clearness : without attempting effect, he is always interesting. The great difficulty in affording a general view of Italian history arises from the necessity which the historian is under of constantly shifting the scene, from Florence to Venice, from Naples to Milan, ^c. &c. Sismondi, with singular ability, has interwoven the history of the several states without perplexing the narrative. There is hardly a place of any importance in Italy which is not more or less noticed in this work, which contains the very pith of Italian history in more modern times. For the history of particular states, the following may be recom- mended : — Venice. — Dances history is very entertaining and clear, but must be read with caution, for it was written with the feeling of placing the republic in an unfavourable light, and thus justifying the faithless conduct of Napoleon in subverting it, and delivering it over to Austria. Tuscany. — Pignotti: No depth of thoug;ht, and by no means impartial, but perhaps the best as regards the Grand Ducal period. Machiavelli should be read, but he is rather a difficult writer to understand. Milan. — Verri^s history is the best of his native city ; the style is elegant the remarks philosophical, and the narrative impartial. Fine Arts. — The work of Vasari is both entertaining and full of valuable information not to be obtained elsewhere ; and the book, heretofore so xxii 9. — Books, In trod, unreadable, has been reprinted in an economical and portable form by Lemonnier of Florence, 1850-53. This edition is by far the most useful hitherto published, each Life being accompanied by copious notes, pointing oat, amongst other things, where the different works of art mentioned by Vasari are now to be found.* ^* The plan of the book was suggested in a familiar conversation which took place at Naples, somewhile in the year 1544, at a supper in the house of the Cardinal Farnese. Amongst the company was Paolo Giovio, who had then composed his well-known work, the * Vitse Illustrium Virorum,' The book does not appear to have been published, but it had probably been circulated in manuscript, as was then much the custom in the literary world. Giovio wished to append a biography of artists from the time of Cimabue, upon whose productions, as Vasari says, he began to discourse with judgment and knowledge of art, making, however, terrible mistakes with respect to the artists themselves, confounding names, surnames, birth- places, and specimens. In reply to a question put by the Cardinal, Vasari replied that such a biography would be very instructive, if compiled with accuracy ; and the company, amongst whom was Annibal Caro, joined in urging him to undertake the task of giving a better outline to Giovio. This he did. And he performed his task so satisfactorily, that, when tht sketch was presented to Giovio, the latter declined using it, and advised Vasari to complete the book for himself. " Vasari, ever since his youth, had been collecting materials for such a work, yet the instinct of authorship was not strong upon him. He hesi- tated — asked advice — a rare thing in authors — and what is still more rare, he took it ; and his advisers were sound — Annibal Caro, Molza, Tolomei ; and he worked diligently, until, being urged by Cosmo to bring it out, tlie first edition was printed at the grand-ducal press, and under the special auspices of his patron. In this first edition he inserted no Life of any con- temporary, excepting that of Michael Angelo, who received the presentation copy with great pleasure, testifying his gratitude by a sonnet, a thing, like most complimentary poems, a column of fine words, containing an infinite- simal quantity of meaning. Still the sonnet was a high token of approba- tion, and it increased the intimacy subsisting between them ; and this friendship enabled Vasari to profit the more by the verbal information received from Michael Angelo, as well as by his correspondence. Other valuable materials Vasari obtained from the manuscripts of Ghirlandajo, Ghiberti, Rafael d'Urbino, and many more who are not named. It was the custom in Florence for the heads of families to keep a book of remem- brances — ' ricordi,' as they were termed — of the events happening to them- selves, their children, and kindred ; and from these memorials he gleaned abundantly. Vasari was also well versed in the general and particular history of Tuscany and the adjoining states ; but besides these sources, all the traditions of art were yet rife and lively, and much information of the greatest importance had been handed down from mouth to mouth. The chain of tradition, if once broken, can never be replaced. Interesting as such traditions of art may be in relation to the personal anecdotes they pre- * An English translation of Vasari, by Mr. I. Forster, in a cheap and portable form, has been published by Bohn in 1851, but it only contains the original text. In trod. 9. — Books, xxiii serve, they were perhaps even more important with respect to the know- ledge which they imparted of the mechanical proceedings employed by the artists, the identification of the portraits introduced in historical subjects, and the meaning of allegorical compositions, without which many would have remained unintelligible mysteries— enigmas to be gazed at, and nothing more — like hieroglyphics of which the key is lost. For example, the great fresco of Simon Memmi in the ancient chapterhouse of Santa Maria Novella, representing the Church Militant, in which the portraits of Petrarch and Laura are introduced, would, without this aid, be completely inexplicable." — Quart. Review, vol. Ixvi. art. 1. Vasari is, however, unmethodical, and much prejudiced in favour of the Tuscan school : dates are frequently wanting or given incorrectly. Those who require a more accurate history of Italian painting will find what they need in A Neiu History of Painting in Italy, from the 2nd to the l%th Century, by Signer Cavalcaselle and J. E. Crowe, 1863 to 1869 ; and a shorter compendium in Kugler's Handbook of Painting, edited by Sir Charles Eastlake, both Avith numerous and well-executed illustrations of the most celebrated paintings referred to in them. Lanzi gives more ample particulars, and is especially useful in the man- ner in which the different schools are grouped together by him, and an edition has been published in small and portable volumes ; but his more methodical work does not possess the charm or interest of Yasari's biographies. As a portable work on Italian painters the traveller will find no work in a small space more useful than the Biographical Catalogue of Italian Painters, by Miss Farquhar (1 vol. 12mo., Murray, 1855): indeed it may be considered as a necessary companion or supplement to the Handbooks of Italy ; except in rare cases the artist even will find in it all the bio- graphical details necessary for his purpose, with indications of the principal works of each painter, and a very clear view of the connexion of the different schools with each other; and Mrs. Jameson's vol. on Italian Painters, Lond. 1868. The publications of the Arundel Society ought to be in the possession of every lover of Italian art. The execution of the drawings, and coloured copies of paintings of the great masters, make them acceptable to all, and their low price places them within the means of most travellers. Ticozzi's Dictionary of Painters, in 2 vols., will be found useful. A very interesting work on the History of Painting (Storia delta Pit- tura), on the same plan as that of Cicognara on Sculpture, was published by the late Professor Bossini of Pisa ; the portion that has already ap- peared, embracing the earlier artists who preceded Perugino, is very in- teresting, and accompanied by well-executed outline engravings of some characteristic works of each master. In Italy each school has had its historian ; and there is scarcely an artist of note who has not had his separate biographer, who may be usefully consulted by the traveller. The Italian translation of Quatrem^re de Quincy's Life of Raphael, by Longhena, is very valuable from the annotations of the translator ; as is Passavant's Vie de Raphael, in French, for the Pioman and Umbrian schools. Those who read German will derive much information from Eumohr's Italienische Forschungen, which contain a great deal of curious matter xxiv 9. — Booh, 10. — Maps of Italy, In trod. respecting early Tuscan art. Mnller's Archdologie der Kiinst is also a good guide for works of art generally. Before the publication of Mr. C. Perkins's beautiful work, History of Tuscan Sculptors, 13 vols. 4to,, London, 1864 and 1868, Cicognara was the principal authority on Italian sculpture ; but it is bulky, expensive, and incomplete : we notice it merely as a book to be consulted. Literature. — Ginguene is an interesting, though not always a faithful guide ; but perhaps, for the general reader, none better can be suggested. The reputation acquired by Roscoe's Lorenzo de* Medici was, in some degree, owing to the novelty of the subject. But Pioscoe is always elegant, and, so far as literary history is concerned, fairly correct. The Italian edition of Roscoe's Leo X. is valuable from the notes appended to it by Ticozzi. Manzoni's Novel, The Promessi Sposi, will add much interest to the scenery of Milan and its vicinity. Dante's Divina Commedia, the small edition with notes by Costa and Bianchi, published at Florence, will be found' the most convenient. 10. — Maps of Italy. General. — The best general Maps of Italy are — those published in 1865 by the Italian Government, in 6 sheets for the N., and in an equal number for the Neapolitan Provinces, and those of Cerri and Orgiazzi, but the latter are incorrect in their topographical details. The same observation applies to nearly all the Maps of Italy published in England, Germany, and France (an exception must be made, however, in favour of Mr. A. Keith Johnston's, in 2 sheets). We have endeavoured to render those annexed to the Handbooks as accurate as possible, and from the latest surveys. General Collegno published some years since, at Paris, a useful Geo- logical Map of Italy, founded on all that was then known ; i-ecent dis- coveries, and particularly the labours of our countryman Sir R. Murchison, call for a new edition of it. Fiedmont and Sardinia. — The Italian Government has published a beautiful Map of its Continental States, in 6 sheets, founded on a tri- gonometrical survey ; and a reduction of the same in 1, which will answer every object of most travellers : it is also now issuing a detailed Map of all its Continental territories on a scale of soins ; and Professor Sismonda has produced a beautiful Geological Map of the same portion of the Italian kingdom, based upon the topographical ones above referred to. The late General Alberto de la Marmora published a magnificent Map of the Island of Sardinia, in two large sheets, which reflects the highest credit on the talents, patriotism, and liberality of that nobleman, who was for several years engaged on it, and completed the whole of the surveys, almost at his own expense. Venetian- Lomhardy . — The Austrian Government' published a very de- tailed and beautiful Map of the Lombardo- Venetian Kingdom in 80 sheets, Introd. 10. — Maps, 11. — Objects to he Noticed, xxv on a scale of sBfero, and a reduction of it in 4 on that of ^li^m ; the latter contains everything necessary for the ordinary traveller. Parma and Fiacenza, Modena. — Very accurate Maps of these provinces, on a similar scale to that of the great Map of the Lombar do- Venetian king- dom, have been also published by the Austrian Government. Tuscany. — The Austrian Government has also completed the Map of Tuscany on a scale of gsiW? the same as that and forming a part of its surveys of Central Italy. The Map of Tuscany by the late Padre Inghirami, in 4 sheets, is very good, and, before the Austrian Survey, was by far the best: it is sometimes erroneous in its topographical details ; but when it is considered that it was the work of a single indi- vidual, who, almost unaided by his Government, not only made a trigono- metrical survey of the country, but executed the topographical drawing, the highest praise is to be given to its reverend author, one of a family whose members have been long known for their learning, and their services to Italian literature and science. A very useful reduction in one sheet of Inghirami's Map has been published at Florence by Segato, iSignor Zuccagni Orlandini brought out some years since an Atlas of Tus- cany, divided into valleys, a convenient arrangement enough, with very useful statistical details at the time respecting each valley ; the Map or topographical part is copied from Inghirami. As to Zuccagni's voluminous work on the Geography of Italy (^Corografia deir Italia), the Maps are compiled from more original works, often with little criticism or judgment, and have been rendered obsolete by the more recent and accurate Austrian surveys. The French Depot de la Marine has published the survey of the coasts of Italy from the Var to the Bay of Naples, with detailed plans of their harbours, &c. ; they embrace not only the coast-line of the continent, but the islands of the Tuscan Archipelago lying off it — Gorgona, Elba, Giglio, Monte Cristo, Pianosa, and Gianutri. The traveller will find at Artaria's shop (Via di S. Margarita) in Milan, and at Maggi's (Via del Po) in Turin, and at Florence, most of the Maps of Italy that have been published, save those of Eome and Naples, which can seldom be procured except in these capitals. 11. — Objects to be Noticed. Within the districts described in this volume, some few Celtic remains in Piedmont and the Euganean hills are the only vestiges anterior to the Pi Oman domination. To the era of the Empire belong the amphitheatre and gates of Verona, the theatre at Vicenza, the villa of Catullus on the Lake of Garda, the arch of Susa, the ruins of Velleja, the columns of San Lorenzo at Milan, the temple at Brescia, and the amphitheatre of Padua. Amongst the edi- fices of the Ptoman period, the amphitheatre at Verona is the most remark- able ; the arch of Susa is the oldest ; the other vestiges belong to the later Emperors ; but none are in a very pure style of architecture. The only ones which we can ascribe to the Augustan age (the arch of Susa, and the Tropha3um of Augustus at Turbia near Nice) are rude in taste. To the Im- N, Italy— 186d. h xxvi 11. — Objects to he Noticed. In trod. jjerial times belong the buried city of Yelleia — the Pompeii of Northern Italy — and the ruins of Industria and of Luni. Amongst the museums of antiquities, Turin, inferior in other depart- ments, has one of the rich collections in Europe of Egyptian antiquities. The museums of Parma, Modena, Bologna, Yerona, Brescia, Ferrara, and Forli, are of considerable local importance. Of Christian antiquities during the Roman period, or of the middle ages, Ravenna stands pre-eminent for its early ecclesiastical edifices ; Milan and Yerona offer also remark- able vestiges. The Baptisteries of Ravenna, Novara, Cremona, and Parma, also belong to this class, although there is uncertainty about their date. The Basilica of St. Mark, at Yenice, forms a class of its own. Although frequently much altered, northern Italy abounds in magnifi- cent specimens of the Lombard style, called Romanesque, a variety of which is familiarly known amongst us as Norman. The cathedrals of Yerona, Parma, and Modena, and the churches of San Zeno (Yerona) and San Michele (Pavia), are peculiarly remarkable. Most of the larger Lombard churches are interesting from the symbolical sculptures on the facades, as well as from their impressive grandeur. This Lombard style was never entirely superseded in Italy till the revival of classical archi- tecture : and, generally speaking, so many schools and styles had a coeval existence in Italy, that the data by which we judge of the age of a building in France or England lose much of their certainty when applied here. Gothic or Pointed architecture in Italy exhibits itself in many marked varieties, and four distinct schools may be observed : (L) The Tuscan or Italian- Gothic, more properly so called, remarkable in the earlier periods for its simplicity, and in the latter for the extreme beauty of its forms. (2.) The Venetian- Gothic, of which the great type is the Palazzo Ducale at Yenice, and which may be traced as far west as Brescia. (3.) The Genoese- Gothic, more than any other disclosing an imitation of the Arabian or Saracenic models. (4.) The Lombard- Gothic, an exuberant variety of the French and German, and which, in the Duomo of Milan, and Certosa of Pavia, attained transcendent excellence.* Connected with the Italian churches, the Camjpanili, or bell-towers, often detached, constitute a remarkable feature. The Campanili of Cremona, Modena, and Yenice deserve attention, and in all cases they form a characteristic and pleasing feature in the scenery of Italy. The Circular Bell-towers of Ravenna, the most ancient of all, are peculiar to that celebrated locality. So much for the styles which we commonly term mediaeval. During their prevalence in Italy an imitation of Roman or classical architecture had never ceased to exist. But it had not been usefully reintroduced till the times of Brunelleschi and of L, B. Alberti, The churches of San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito at Florence are noble examples of the * For more detailed information on the different styles of architecture met with in Italy and its monuments, we must refer our readers to Mr. Fergusson's ' Illustrated Handbook of Architec- ture ' (2 vols. 8vo., 1855), and ' History of Architecture from the Earliest Times to the Present Day (1862 and 1865);' to Mr. Ruskin's 'Stones of Venice/ and Signor Selvatico's work, for the edifices of that city; to Mr. Street's work entitled ' Brick and Marble Architecture in Italy' (1 vol. 8vo., 1855) ; and for the early Christian edifices to Mr. Gaily Knight's large work on the Eccle- siastical Architecture of Italy, and to Canina's ' Tempi Christiani,' 1 vol. fol. In trod. 11. — Objects to he Noticed. xxvii genius of the first of these great men. He also possessed great influence throughout Italy, though few direct imitations of his style appear out of his native city. Brunelleschi's tendency is to assimilate his Italian to the Lombard. But others united the Italian to somewhat of Gothic feeling, after the manner which in France has been termed the style ot the Benaissance ; and this style in Italy has great elegance. The facade of the Certosa of Pa via may be mentioned as an example ; but it is more generally discernible in subsidiary portions, in chapels, and in tombs. Leon Battista Alberti, one of whose best works will be found at Mantua (Sanf Andrea), bestowed extraordinary thought upon church architecture : whilst SanmichcU, Scammozzi, and Palladio more peculiarly excelled in their civil buildings, which form the chief ornaments of Vicenza and Venice. The traveller should observe the edifices of Turin, which belong to a much later period. Domestic architecture, in Italy, affords a high interest. Its progress may be traced at least from the 15th century. The interiors of the period of the Renaissance, which are frequently well preserved, should be well examined, and will well repay this study ; as also will some of the palaces of Genoa. In Venice, besides the great beauty of the buildings, the ingenuity of the architect in adapting his plans to their confined and untoward sites will often be found peculiarly interesting. At Verona buildings of this class have a character of their own, of strength and elegance united in the details. The rmmicipal huildlnrs of Lombardy are of great and varied merit. In the Town-halls, or Brolettos, of Como, Bergamo, Monza, and Brescia, the beauty of the structures is enhanced by their varied styles of decoration. The ancient military architecture of Italy has been little attended to by travellers. Northern Italy abounds in noble mediaeval strongholds and forti- fications. The Scaligerian castles in and about Verona are peculiarly inte- resting ; and the Modenese are not only curious in themselves, but interesting as being amongst the objects which first tinged the mind of Ariosto with his fondness for tales of chivalry. In Italy, also, will be found the earliest examples of regular fortification, by which the ancient modes of defence were superseded. Sculpture in Italy offers a vast number of objects of the highest inte- rest. The names of Niccolo and Giovanni da Pisa, of Mino da Fiesole, of Bambaja, of Donatello, of Orgagna, of Ghiberti, and of Michel Angelo, are of world-wide celebrity ; but the merits of many second-rate Italian sculp- tors have not yet attracted the notice they deserve by the traveller from beyond the Alps. Of all the more remarkable works of sculpture we believe that we have given sufficient notices ; and the traveller should recollect that of some of the best of the Italian sculptors so few specimens exist, that, unless he avails himself of the opportunity of examining them where they now stand, he Avill never meet with them again. Thus, there is scarcely a first- rate fragment of Luca delta Bohhia out of Tuscany, or of Bamhaja out of Milan and Pavia ; very few works of Mino da Fiesole out of Florence and Fiesole ; no work of Begarelli out of Parma and Modena. They have h 2 xxviii 11. — Objects to he Noticed. 12. — Music, Introd. rarely been multiplied by casts, and, when engraved, the representations have been most inadequate. Working in the precious metals was a branch of the sculptor's art, or, as would be better said, trade, for, in the earlier periods at least, they followed it as a craft. Some magnificent specimens, in which enamelled work and precious stones are introduced, exist as pale, or paUiotti, altar- fronts or coverings. Those of San Marco at Venice, of Sant' Ambrogio at Milan, are amongst the most remarkable. Many specimens of the same description, together with votive offerings, cups, vessels, and the like, are still preserved in the sacristies of the churches. Very early and fine specimens of mosaic, formed of prisms of coloured or opaque glass, or enamel, with a gilded ground of the same material, will be found at Milan (San Ambrogio and San Lorenzo), Venice (San Marco and Torcello), and especially at Ravenna, where the finest and oldest works of the kind exist, dating as far back as the 6th cent. The art con- tinued to be practised at Venice till the 16th century, but not so late in Lombardy. At Xovara and Cremona, also, are some curious specimens of early Christian tesselated pavements. In Tuscany, about the 13th century, a richer kind of working was introduced, employing serpentine, porphyry, and various coloured marbles, which mode of workmanship has been improved into the present beautiful Florentine mosaic in pietra dura. This is comiposed of natural mineral productions, and of the finest marbles, and may be seen in perfection at the Certosa of Pavia. The ytained glass of Italy is exceedingly beautiful. In the cathedrals of Milan aad Bologna it is most brilliant. In Venice the colours are not so good. Stained glass, however, does not appear to have become common : there are few examples of it in the smaller churches or in civil buildings. 12. — MusTC. '* There is no feature of Italy in which the traveller is more liable to disappointment than its music ; a vague idea still pervading many persons that Grisis are to be found at every country town opera, — that the streets are never empty of singing, — and that 'all those churches, open from morning to night,' must mean organ-playing and choral performance of some sort or other. Now, without stopping to point out how a sweeping denial of all this would be as unfair to the genius of a country which has been always spontaneous, no less than elaborate, as the sweeping expecta- tion is ridiculous, a word or two may in some degree protect the tourist from disappointment. In the first place, he must prepare himself for a declamatory style of dramatic singing, in which the old French usages (reviled by the Burneys and Walpoles) are more nearly approached than is agreeable to cultivated taste. Next he must recollect that, save in the winter and at Carnival times, he will fall upon the bad opera season at the great theatres of Milan and Venice. At the fairs a ' star or two' are gene- rally secured to add their attractions to the manager's bill of fare ; and at the second-class towns, such as Verona, Vicenza, Padua, there is a chance of tolerable average companies, but hardly singers of ' primo cartello.' The Introd. 12. — Music. xxix best assemblage, I have been told, is generally at Trieste, early in September. In the churches, even the Duomo at Milan, and St. Mark's, Venice, the per- formances on high days and holidays are nothing short of disastrous. All trace, moreover, of tlie tine unaccompanied church music of Italy, most of which was perpetuated by MS. copies, has vanished from the shops. Lastly, though Italy produces surpassing instrumentalists, the taste for instru- mental music hardly secures sufficient to maintain them at home. I never heard of an orchestral concert, or saw sign of a single new composition, save fantasias on the favourite opera themes. This does not sound very tempting : and yet the dilettante who troubles himself to seek, will, 1 think, discern that the sense of tune among the people is still living ; and when he recollects that Rossini sprang up to amaze Europe, at a time little more promising than the present, will pause ere he echoes the com- mon growl, * There is no more music in Italy.' " — H, F. C, h 3 13. — Skeleton Tours. In trod. 13.— A FEW SKELETON TOUKS THEOUGH NORTH ITALY. jj*^ The figures after each station denote the number of days employed not only in arriving from the last place noted, but the time to be employed in sight-seeing, fn the description of all the larger towns, a list of the objects most deserving of the traveller's attention is given in their topo- graphical order. First Tour — of about Three Months in the North of Italy ; VISITING everything MOST DESERVING OF NOTICE. Paris to Turin Turin stay Pinerolo and Vaudois Valleys . . Excursions in the vicinity of Tu- rin — to Kaconigi, Carmagnola, and Cuneo Turin to Asti and Alessandria . . Days. 2 2 3 Alessandria to Acqui . . . . . . 1 Alessandria to Vercelli by Casale 1 Battle-fields of Palestro to No- vara 1 Novara to Magenta, and return to Novara and Arona . . . . 1 Excursions on the Lago Mag- giore ; journey to Laveno, Varese, and Como 2 Excursions on the Lakes of Como and Lugano, and journey to Milan 2 Milan stay 2 Milan to Pavia, and return . . 1 Milan to Monza and Lecco . . 1 Lee CO to Bergamo 1 Bergamo to Lovere, and Lake of Iseo 2 Brescia 1 Cremona 1 Desenzano, and excursions to Sol- ferino, and sites on the Lake of Garda 2 Peschiera and Verona . . . . stay 2 Mantua, and return to Verona . . 1 Vicenza, and to Padua .. .. 1 Padua and Euganean Hills . . 3 Venice stay 3 Excursions to Treviso, Cone- gliano, Udine, and Trieste . . 3 Days. Keturn to Venice by Steam or Kail 1 Journey to Ferrara 1 Bologna stay 2 Journey to Kavenna . . and stay 2 Kavenna to Kimini 1 Kimini to Cesena, Forli, Faenza, and Imola, and return to Bologna 2 Bologna to Modena and Parma 2 Parma (stay), with excursion to Colorno, &c 1 Parma to Piacenza, stopping at Borgo S. Donino, with excur- sion to Velleij a 2 Piacenza to Genoa, stopping at Tortona, Voghera, and Cas- teggio 1 Genoa stay 3 Genoa to Leghorn and Florence 1 Pisa and Florence 1 Florence and environs, including excursion to Vallombrosa . . 7 Florence to Lucca, stopping at Pistoia and Prato 2 Lucca, and Excursion to Baths of Lucca 2 Pietrasanta, Massa, Carrara, and Spezia 2 Spezia to Genoa, and stay .. .. 2 Genoa to Nice, by la Kiviera . . 2 Nice 1 Toulon, stopping at Frejus and Toulon 2 Toulon to Marseilles 1 Marseilles to Paris I 87 In trod. 13. — Skeleton Tours, XXXI Second Tour — of about Six Weeks in North Italy. Days. Paris to Turin . . . . and stay 3 Turin to Novara, by Vercelli . . 1 Vercelli to Alessandria, by Casale 1 Novara and Arona 1 Excursions on Lago Maggiore . . 2 Arona to Milan, by Magenta . . 1 Milan (stay\ with excursions to Como, Monza, Pa via, and Cre- mona .. .. •• 6 Milan to Bergamo and Brescia . . 1 Brescia to Desenzano, with ex- cursions to Solferino, and on tlie Lago di Garda 2 Verona and stay 1 Mantua 1 Verona to Padua Tand stay), by Vicenza, and to Venice . . . . 2 Days. Venice 3 Venice to Ferrara . . and stay 1 Bologna 2 Bologna to Ravenna 1 Ravenna to Rimini 1 Rimini to Bologna 1 Bologna to Modena and Parma 2 Parma to Piacenza 1 Piacenza to Genoa, by Alessandria 1 Genoa 2 Genoa to Nice 2 Nice to Toulon 1 By Marseilles to Paris, stopping at Avignon and Lyons . . . . 2 42 Third Tour — of about Six Weeks, entering Italy by Venice. Venice 3 Padua 1 Ferrara 1 3ologna 2 Ravenna 2 Forli and Faienza 1 Bologna and Modena 1 Modena, Parma, and Piacenza . . 2 Piacenza to Lodi and Milan . . 1 Milan (stay), and visits to Monza, Como, and Pavia 5 Milan to Bergamo and Brescia . . 3 Brescia to Lake of Garda, Sol- ferino, and Verona 2 Verona to Vicenza and back . . 1 Verona to Mantua 1 Mantua to Cremona 1 Cremona to Milan, by Lodi . . 1 Milan to Novara and Lago Mag- giore, Magenta, Szc 2 Novara to Turin, by Vercelli . . 1 Turin 2 Turin to Genoa . . . . and stay 3 Genoa to Nice 2 Nice to Toulon and Marseilles , . 1 Marseilles, by Aix, Avignon, Lyons, and Dijon, to Paris . . 3 42 Tour of about Three Weeks through a part of Northern Italy, after visiting switzerland, and returning to england through Germany. Geneva to Turin . . . . and stay 3 Milan (and stay), visiting Novara and Magenta 3 Pavia 1 Bergamo and Brescia IJ Solferino and Verona 2 Mantua 1 Vicenza, Padua, to Venice (and stay) 3 Treviso, Udine, and Trieste Vienna To London or Paris, by Munich, Augsbourg, Frankfort, Heidel- berg, Mayence, Cologne, and Ostend 22J XXXll Tables of Currency, In trod. Tables of Foreign Moneys reduced into the different Currencies of Italy ^ at the jpar of exchange. I. INTO FRENCH AND ITALIAN CURRENCY. Francs. English Sovereign ... 25 Crown of 5 Shillings . 6 Shilling 1 French Napoleon d'Or 20frs 20 5 franc piece ... 5 1 ditto 1 Austrian Florin of 3 Lire 2 Crown of 6 Lire . , 5 Gold Sovrana ... 34 Cen- times. 21 25 25 00 00 00 61 22 80 Francs. Tuscan Scudo of 1 Pauls . 5 Dena of 1 5 Pauls . . 8 Paul Florin 1 Roman Doppia, gold . . 26 Scudo, 10 Pauls . . 5 Paul Neapolitan 12 Scudo of 12 Carlini . 5 Carlino Cen- times. 60 40 56 40 87 37 54 99 09 421 Introd. Tables of Currency, XXXlll Table 1. — English Money reduced to its equivalent Value in the Money of the several States of Italy. English Money, Lira Italiana, or Franc. Austrian Lira. lof a Florin. Evglish Money. Lira Italiana, or Franc. Austrian Lira. a Florin. £. 5. d. I Lira cent. lOi Lira cent. 12 £. s. d. 5 Lira cent. ]26 5 Lira cent. 145 00 2 21 24 6 151 26 174 00 4 42 48 7 176 47 203 00 6 63 72 8 201 68 232 00 1 1 26 1 44 9 226 89 261 00 2 2 52 2 89 10 252 10 290 00 3 3 78 4 33 20 504 20 580 00 4 5 04 5 80 30 756 30 870 00 5 6 30 7 25 40 1008 40 1160 00 10 12 60 14 50 50 1260 50 1455 00 15 18 90 21 75 60 1512 60 1740 00 1 25 21 29 00 70 1764 70 2030 00 2 50 42 58 00 80 2016 80 2320 00 3 75 63 87 00 90 2268 90 2610 00 4 100 84 116 00 100 2521 00 2900 00 The Lira Nuova d' Italia, equivalent to the French Franc, is the current coin throughout the kingdom of Italy and the Papal States. The Austrian Lira, equal to 84 centimes of the Lira Nova, and the Florin of 3 Lire, are now seldom met with. The above Table has been calculated at the par of exchange, i. e. at the com- parative intrinsic values of the precious metals contained in the English sovereign and the different foreign coins comprised in it. Tables of Currency, Introd. Table 2. — Currency of the different Italian States reduced into English Money, at the par of exchange. LOHBARDY andVknice. English. Tuscany. * English. KOME. * English. Naples. English. i _1 £. s. d. 11 J £. 5. d. 111 W O' P3 £. s. d. pi D £. s, d. 1 « Offi^ 1 0^ 1 0/^ 1 0,^ 10 Ofo 4 i/o 5 2t'o 5 2 50 41|, 1 5fo 1 5t% 1 4 1 00 8i 2 loA 02 10 To 2 8 2 00 1 4i 3 1 3-^ 3 1 3T(j 3 10 3 00 2 Oi 4 1 9A 4 1 9ft 4 1 4 4 00 2 9 5 2 2 To 5 2 2T5 5 1 8 5 00 3 5i 1 4 5t1) 1 4 3i 1 3 4i 10 00 6 lOi 2 8 101% 2 8 6i 2 6 8i 15 00 10 4 3 13 3tI 3 12 9f 3 10 01 20 00 13 9i 4 e 17 91% 1 2 2ft 4 17 Oi 4 13 5 30 00 1 8i 5 5 1 1 'Si 5 16 9i 40 00 1 7 7 10 2 4 5 10 2 2 7i 10 1 13 ei 50 00 1 14 5f 15 3 6 7x^0 15 3 3 101 15 2 10 3i 60 00 2 1 Ai 20 4 8 10 20 4 5 2i 20 3 7 1 70 00 2 8 31 30 6 13 3 30 6 7 91 30 5 7i 80 00 2 15 2 40 8 IT 8 40 8 10 5 40 6 14 2 90 00 3 1 lOi 50 11 2 1 50 10 13 Oi 50 8 7 8i 100 00 3 9 Oi 60 13 6 6 60 12 15 5i 60 10 1 3 200 00 6 18 Oi 70 15 10 11 70 14 18 21 70 11 14 9i 300 00 10 7 Oi 80 17 15 4 80 17 10 80 13 5 4 400 00 13 16 1 90 19 19 9 90 19 3 5i 90 15 1 lOi 500 00 17 5 li 100 22 4 2 100 21 6 Oi 100 16 15 5 600 00 20 14 U 200 44 8 4 200 42 12 1 200 33 10 10 700 00 24 3 li 300 66 r2 6 300 63 18 li 300 50 6 3 800 00 27 12 2 400 88 16 8 400 85 4 2 400 67 1 8 900 00 31 1 2i 500 111 10 500 106 10 2i 500 83 17 1 1000 00 34 10 2i 1000 222 1 8 1000 212 5 1000 167 14 2 * The Tuscan, Roman, and Neapolitan coinage herein enumerated have now nearly ceased to exist, the only circulation being in francs or Italian lire, and centimes, at present universally adopted throughout Italy. . • Introd. Measures of Distances, Table 3. — Showing the Value of the different Measures of Distances employed in Italy, reduced to English statute Miles, Furlongs, and Yards, Foreign Distances. Reduced to English. Foreign Distances. Reduced to English, Geographical Mile French Myriametre Piedmontese Mile Milanese Mile. . Venetian Mile Parma & Piacenza M Tuscan Mile . . Yards. 2,025i 0,936 2,697 1,952 2,114 1,619 1,808 Miles. Furl. Yd3. 1 1 45i 6 1 156 1 4 60 1 192 1 1 134 7 79 1 48 Roman Mile . , , Neapolitan Mile . . Austrian Mile of 4000 klafter .... Roman Post of 8 Miles Neapolitan Post of 8 Miles .... Yards. 1,628 2,435 8,297 Miles. Furl. Yds. 7 88 1 3 15 4 5 155 7 3 40 11 112 ( xxxvi ) ABBREYIATIONS, &c., EMPLOYED IN THE HANDBOOK. The points of the compass are marked hy the letters N. S. E. W. (rt.) right, (/.) left, — applied to the banks of a river. The right bank is that which lies on the right hand of a person looking down the stream, or whose back is turned towards the quarter from which the current descends. Miles. — Distances are, as far as possible, reduced to English miles ; when miles are mentioned without any other designation, they are understood to be English. The names of Inns precede the description of every place (often in a parenthesis), because the first information needed by a traveller is where to lodge. Instead of designating a town by the vague words " large " or *' small," the amount of its population, according to the latest census, is stated, as presenting a more exact scale of the importance and size of the place. In order to avoid repetition, the Routes are preceded by a chapter of preliminary information ; and to facilitate reference to it, each division or paragraph is sepaiately numbered. Each Route is numbered with Arabic figures, corresponding with those attached to the Route on the Map, which thus serves as an Index to the Book. EKRATA AND ADDENDA— 1870. PAGE 25, Col. 1, for stand read 'standard. Add — The likeness of Prince Eugene is dented "with bullet marks. 94. i^i?ja^e.— Molinari's charges are said to have become exorbitant. This, if continued, will prevent travellers staying at the H, de Venezia. 150. I'allanza—Gvsind Hotel opened 18Y0. 150 rooms. English Chapel. 172, Col. 2. — Milan. — For Hotel Manese, read Manin; a very good house. 265. Brescia.— T\\Q Inns shamefully durty ; so that it is scarcely possible for ladies to stay a night here. 375. Passports not needed for Bavaria now. 876. Venice.. — Dele Carlo Grubas and Dr. Candeo. — Letters of ^ oz, weight must be paid double. For 40 soldi, read 40 cents. — Schielen's Bank is removed to 4U37 Campo della Chiesa San Luca. — The best Photographs are by Naya, price 1 to 1^ frs., not 2 frs. No duty on photos at the Custom House. 384. Pala Z>'oro— There is but one; usually covered by a screen, which pulls up. It is in 83 compartments of 5 rows. There is a small copy of it in the Treasury. 386, Col. 2, for Austrian standard, read Flag of Italy. 388. For Imperial, read Royal. 399. Arsenal. — No passports demanded now. 422. Academy is open 9 to 3. 429, Cathedral of Murano is being thoroughly restored. 433, Col. l.—Torcello, Line 23 from bottom, far 1. of the choir, read right. A HANDBOOK FOR TEAYELLEliS m T^ORTHEE]^ ITALY. SECTION L PIEDMONT AND SARDINIAN LOMBAEDY. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 1. Territori/, Government. — 2. Nature of the Country ^.Ilxtent^ Population. -^ 3. Language. — 4. Fine Arts, Literature. — 5. Posting. — 6. Railways, — 7. Money^ Weights^ Measures. ROITTES. [In the tables of contents tliroughout this work the names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where they are described.'] ROUTE ^ PAGE 1. Susa to Turin — Rail. - - 7 2. Turin to Milan, by Vercelli, Ho* vara^ and Magenta — Rail. - 3. Turin to Milan, by Casale^ Mortara, and Vigevano 4. Turin to Asti, by Chieri 5. Turin to Genoa, by Asti, Ales- sandria^ and Novi — Rail. - 5a Turin to Alessandria, by Bra Alha^ Nizza, Monferrato — Rail. - - - 6. Alessandria to Mortara, No- vara, and Arona, on the Lago Maggiore — Rail. 38 51 53 54 59 60 EOUTE PAGE 7. Alessandria to Piacenza, by Tortona, VogJiera, Casteggio 8. Turin to Nice, by Carmagnola, Savigliano, Cuneo, and the Col di Tenda - - - - 9. Turin to Oneglia, hjJ^rd, Che- rasco, Alba, and Ceva- 10. Turin to Oneglia, by Fossano and Mondovi - . - 11. Alessandria to Savona, by Acqui, Lego, and Montenotte 12. Turin to Savona, by 7l[f?7Zmwo 12a. Turin to Pinerolo and Vau- dois Valleys - - - 62 66 73 77 80 80 § 1. TeREITOEY. — GrOYEENMENT. What Frederick said of Prussia, that it was made up of pieces rapporte.es, is particularly applicable to tlie continental dominions of the King of Sardinia. On the Italian side of the Alps, the following are the component parts, united N. Italy— V^m, ^ ^2 2 § 1. Territory — Government. Sect. I under the authority of the present dynasty : — Piedmont proper, the nucleus of the kingdom, gained from the Comits of Provence, by Peter Count of Savoy, in 1220, and inherited from the Marchioness Adelaide, and subsequently an Im- perial donation. The Marquisate of Susa, which, at an earlier period, included the greater part of Piedmont, but wliich was afterwards confined to narrower bounds. The Frincipality of Carignano^ a modern dismemberment of the Mar- quisate of Susa. The Marquisate of Ivrea, ceded to Savoy by the Emperors Pre- derick II. in 1248, and Henry VII. in 1313. The small Marquisate of Ceva, at the foot of the Apennines. The Lordship of VerceUi, which, after several changes of masters, was ceded by Milan to Savoy in 1427. The County of Asti, ceded by Charles V. to Duke Charles lY. in 1531. The Marquisate of Saluzzo, long contested by the French, and which, though cutting into the heart of Piedmont, was not fully acquu^ed by the Dukes of Savoy till 1588. The Duchy of Montferrat, obtained by the Dukes of Savoy in 1630 ; Yal Sesia from the Emperor Leopold in 1703 ; the County of Arona and the Province of Duomo d'Ossola in 1743 by the treaty of Worms. Several dismemberments of the Duchy of Milan, namely, the Provinces of Alessandria, Tortona, and Novara, with the Lomellina, in 1736 ; the Oltro Fo Pavese in 1743, subsequently con- firmed by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle in 1748 ; and, lastly, Oneglia, and the Genoese territories, by the treaty of Vienna in 1814. Previous to the occupation of Italy by the French, these territories were respectively governed by thfeh^ local laws. Under Napoleon, Piedmont continued annexed to the French Empire ; and, since the restoration of the House of Savoy, much of the French administration had been retained, in connexion, however, with the original institutions, which had been partially restored. The government since 1848 is a constitutional monarchy, consisting of a king, a senate, and a chamber of representatives. The Dukes of Savoy, as is well known, acquired the regal title at the beginning of the last century. The following is their succession from the tinie of Emanuele Filiberto (1553), by whom the fortunes of the House were re- stored, and who may be considered as the founder of the Monarchy : — 1580. Carlo Emanuele I. 1773. Vittorio Amedeo III. 1630. Vittorio Amedeo I. 1796. Carlo Emanuele IT. 1637. Francesco G-iacinto. 1802. Vittorio Emanuele. 1638. Carlo Emanuele II. 1821. Carlo FeHce. 1675. Vittorio Amedeo II. 1831. Carlo Alberto. 1730. Carlo Emanuele III. 1849. Vittorio Emanuele II. At the Congress of Vienna, the right of succession, in the event (wliich hap- pened) of the failure of male issue in the dh^ect royal line of Vittorio Amedeo II., was secured to the collateral branch of Savoy Carignan. The founder of this branch was Prince Tomaso Francesco (born 1596, died 1656), the fourth son of Carlo Emanuele I. ; and upon the death of Carlo Felice, without male issue, the late king, as the descendant of Tomaso Francesco, obtained the crown accord- ingly. Defeated by the Austrians at Novara on the 23rd of March, 1849, he abdicated in favour of his son, the reigning Monarch, and retired to Oporto, where he d'ed soon afterwards. The royal family now consists of his Majesty Vittorio Emanuele, King of Italy, King of Sardinia, Cyprus, and Jerusalem ; Duke of Savoy, Genoa, &c. &c. ; born March 14, 1820 ; ascended the throne March 23, 1849; married April 12, 1842; — and several children by the late Queen, Maria Adelaide Francesca, Archduchess of Austria, and daughter of the Archduke Eenier ; born June 3, 1822 ; — the eldest, Umberto Carlo Emanuele, Prince Royal of Italy and Prince of Piedmont, born March 14, 1844. Piedmont. § 2. Nature of the Country — Extent — Pojjulation. 3 The constitutional government wliicli has now existed for several Tears in Italy has gone on working as favourably as the best friends of liberal institutions could have desuvd, affording a gratifying contradiction to tliose who have sup- posed the Italians unfitted for representative institutions. In no country on the continent of Europe had the representative system taken so firm a root as in the Sardinian dominions, and, thanks to it, and the good feeling and prudence of its inhabitants, wliilst many other states in the Peninsula were groamng under political and ecclesiastical oppression. Piedmont was prosperous under its constitutional monarchy. The supporters of the new order of things had many difficulties to overcome, arising out of the war of 18 19 — the jealousy of powerful neighbours, the openly avowed hostility of the Court of Rome, and at home from the intrigues of an ignorant aristocracy and a bigoted clergy throughout Italy, the declared enemies of progress and of liberal government. Many of these obstacles have disappeared before the firmness of a popular sovereign, a legisla- ture imbued with the principles of their country's good, and an administration following in the steps of the lamented Count Cavour. § 2. Natuee of the Countey. — Extent. — Population-. "What may be now called Piedmont is the country that extends from the Alps proper to the Maritime Alps and Apennines, as far as the Ticino and Trebbia rivers on the E., and including the provinces of Turin, Cuneo, Ales- sandria, Ivrca, Novara, and Pavia, with a small stripe of the former Duchy of Piacenza, having a population of more than 3 millions of inhabitants. Like Lom- bardy, it offers tlu'ee well-marked regions ; a higher one which extends to the snow-capped peaks of the Alps, where it bounds with France and Switzerland, and to the tops of the Maritime Alps and Ligurian Apennines ; an intermediate one consisting of subalpine and subapennine hills, and of the valleys through which descend the tributaries of the Po ; and of a lower region bordering on that great river, and on tlie course of the streams that empty themselves into it — the Dora, the Sesia, the Ticino, the Tanaro, the Bormida, and the Scrivia. The most fertile region is the latter. In respect to cultivation, the principal products are, in the more elevated region, timber, barley, potatoes ; in the middle one, vines, wheat — and, in its lower part, maize, mulberry-trees ; and in the flat region bordering on its great watercourses, corn, rice, mulberry-trees, maize. The central region is the favoured one of the vine in Piedmont, with the grain crops, and the silkworms, the most important of the agricultural productions of the country. The quantity of grain produced is not sufficient for the sustenance of its population ; hence a good deal is imported from Lombardy and the neigh- bouring districts of the EmiHan Provinces and Romagna. The nature of the agricultural produce consumed for food varies in different parts of the country. In the towns wheat is extensively used. The inhabitants of the plains and low hills of Piedmont consume at least as much Indian corn and rye as wheat. In the Alpine valleys wheat is an article of luxm-y, and Indian cora, potatoes, rye, and buckwheat are the food of the great majority of the in- habitants. In the Apennines and the hills of Montferrat chesnuts form an important article of sustenance ; and lastly, rice, produced in large quantity in the provinces of YereeUi, Is ovara, and Lomellina, is consumed in the country, and exported beyond the Alps. Manufactures. — Piedmont proper has few manufactures, and none on a large scale — none of any importance as articles of export, the great wealth of the B 2 4 § 3. Language. § 4. Fine Arts — Literature. Sect. I. country consisting in its wines, which, are sent in large quantities to the sea coast and into Lonibardy ; and its silk, which is exported, almost all in an unmanufactured state, to France, Switzerland, and especially to England. Of late years its mining industry has attracted more attention, some works of importance having been opened in the higher Alpine valleys of the Dora, the Sesia, and the Ticino. The Piedmontese peasantry are strong and well built, very active and indus- trious, and form excellent soldiers ; and, in the rural districts, are very simple and honest. The Roman Catholic rehgion is the established and dominant creed. Since the accession of the present sovereign, the Protestants of the Alpine valleys are no longer persecuted as formerly ; they have been even per- mitted to erect a handsome church at Turin, towards which the Grovernment has very liberally contributed. § 3. LaKGUAGE. The Piedmontese dialect has much more analogy with the Provencal than any other of the Northern dialects of the Italian. But this similarity is not the effect of mixture or corruption : it holds, in some degree, a middle place between the Provencal and Italian, with certain peculiar intonations and vowels, which, in addition to its vocabulary, render it perfectly unintelligible to a stranger, however well versed he may be in the sister tongues. The Piedmontese is the universal speech of the country, and employed by high and low ; though, of course, all persons of education speak Itahan. French is in very common use at Turin; first introduced by the court and followers of the Dukes of Savoy, and kept up by the frequent occupations of the country by its Grallic neighbours. § 4. Fine Auts.* — Liteeatuee. The manner in which the dominions of the House of Savoy have been united renders it rather difficult in some cases to define who are the great men whom it can claim. The best painters that were naturalised here, such as Gaudenzio Ferrari^ a native of Yal Sesia (seeYercelli), Lanini^ and Solari, reaUy belong to the Milanese school. Solari (fl. 1530), was born at Alessandria. He was an imitator of Raphael, and not without success. Guglielmo Caccia, other- wise called Moncalvo (1568-1625), worked much at Tiu-in, Novara, and Yercelli. Some consider him as a follower of the Caracci. The eighteenth century pro- duced a host of inferior artists. The Dukes of Savoy were liberal and splendid collectors of works of art, and they also invited many foreign artists to their courts, as Balthazar Matthetv of Antwerp, Jan 3IieI, a pupil of Yandyke, and Daniel Setjter of Yienna. Yery recently the Academy, founded in 1678, has received much encoui'agement. It was re-organised by the King Carlo Felice in 1824, and was afterwards denominated the Accademia Albertina^ after the then reigning sovereign. No painter of any eminence has been produced. One of the distinguished sculptors of the present centy., Baron Marocliett% was a Pied- montese by birth. The Piedmontese school of architecture in the last century exhibits some originality, if not genius. * On this subject consult Kugler's * Handbook of Painting in Italy,' edited by Eastlake, 2 vols. 1868 — a work designed for the information of travellers; the * Biographical Catalogue of the Principal Italian Painters,' by a Lady, 1 vol. l2mo. 1855, and Messrs. Crowe and Cavalcaselle's volumes on the * Schools of Painting of North Italy,' 2 vols. 8vo., 1869. Piedmont. § 5. Posting. 5 Literature is flourisliing. French literature is losing much of its influence. German has been hitherto little cultivated from the anti-Teutonic feelings of the Piedmontese. Printing was carried on to a great extent, and formed an important branch of industry at Turin until the transfer of the capital to Florence. It is in history, belles-lettres, and science, that the Piedmontese have most distinguished themselves. Botta, Manno, Balbo, Cibrario, BertO' lotti, PeUico, IMassimo d'Azeglio, Nota, Gioberti, Sclopis, Peyron, Plana, Colleguo, Alberto della Marmora, Lorenzo Pareto, Moris Gene, Sismonda, do great honour to the intellectual fame of their country. § 5. Posting. Since the extension of railways there are only 3 routes in which there are stations for post-horses, — from Nice to Genoa and Spezia, from Arona to the Simplon, and from Cuneo over the Col di Tenda to Nice. The posting regulations in the kingdom of Northern Italy generally have been recently assimilated to those of France, the distances being reckoned in kilometres, and the charges being nearly tlie same, viz. 20 centimes for each horse, and 12 for postilions, for every kilometre ; on the mountain-passes of Mt. Cenis, the Simplon, and Tenda, the charge for each horse is increased one-thiixl, or to 30 c. The number of horses wliic]i the postmasters can put on is regulated accord- ing to the nature of the carriage, for which purpose all vehicles are arranged under three classes : — 1^^ ; cabriolets on two wheels, light caleches without a seat in front, broughams, &c., to which only 2 horses are required, provided the number of persons does not exceed 2 ; if 3 or 4, then 3 horses, and for each additional passenger 15 centimes per kilometre must be paid. 2^nd class : limonieres, large caleches with a double seat inside, chariots or coupes, clarences, &c., 3 horses and one postilion ; should the number of persons exceed 3, an additional charge of 15 c. for each per kilometre. 3rcZ class, heavy landaus, barouches, berhnes, whether closed or open, 4 horses and 2 postilions, if above 4 passengers, 15 c. per kil. for the 5th; if 6 passengers, 6 horses and 2 postihons (it is usual to pay for the 2 additional horses without yoking them to), and every additional person 15 c. per kilometre. One child under 10 years is not reckoned, but if two they are considered as equivalent to one fuU-grown person, in the above regulations. Each postmaster is obhged to be provided with carriages for the use of travellers (in general very rickety concerns), for the hire of which they are authorised to charge, for a cabriolet on two wheels 10 c, and a four-wheeled vehicle 15 c. per kilometre. At the posthouses on the passes of the Simplon and Col di Tenda, the masters must provide sledges during the winter season, for the hire of which they are entitled to 15 c. per kilometre ; they are also authorised to charge 3 and 4 francs for dismounting and placing each carriage on the sledge, according to the class to which it may be referable. Chevaux de renfort. — Except on the mountain passes, for which there are special regulations noted in our description of these routes, carriages of the first and second classes, with one person, are not obliged to take a cheval d.e renfort ; but if more than one passenger, carriages of the 1st class, one additional horse ; of the 2nd and 3rd classes, two additional horses ; and carriages of the 3rd class mid 6 horses, 3 additional ones and another postilion, 6 § 6. Railioays, § 7. Money, Weights, Measures. Sect. I, § 6. Railways. Considerable progress has been made in the construction of Railroads in Piedmont. Upwards of 750 miles have been completed up to the present time. Lines already open: — From Turin to Genoa, lOof miles; Turin to Susa, 33 miles ; Tm-in to Pinerolo, 21f miles ; Alessandria to Novara, 41 miles, with a branch from Torreberetti to Pavia ; Novara to Arona, 22^^ miles ; Turin by Savigliano and Fossano to Cuneo, with a branch to Bra, 54^ miles ; Turin to ]S"ovara and the Lombard frontier, tlu'ough Yercelli, 68 miles, with branches to Ivrea, Biella, and to Grozzano near the Lake of Orta ; to Valenza by Casale ; from Mortara to Yigevano, 7 miles; from Alessandria by Tortona to Piacenza, join- ing the Centro- Italian line connecting Milan, Parma, and Bologna ; from Ales- sandria to Acqui ; from jSTovi to Tortona ; and from Alessandria to Cavallermag- giore, passing by Nizza di Monferrato, Alba, and Bra, 61 m. ; from Pavia by Cremona to Brescia, over the Mont Cenis Pass on the Fell system, from Pavia to Casteggio and Novi, now forming the direct line from Milan to Grenoa ; Genoa to Nice, abeady opened to Savona ; Genoa to Pisa, already completed to Cliiavari and Sestri ; and from Spezia to Pisa ; a direct line in progress to Savona from Turin, branching off from Carmagnola, and passing by Ceva and the Pass of Cadibona. And the rly. from Susa to Modane by the valley of the Dora, Susina to Bardoneche, and from there by the longest of all mountain tunnels (nearly 8 m.) is progressing rapidly to Modane in Savoy, and will be completed in all 1871. § 7. Money, Weiohts, Measures. The coinage is the same as in France — on the decimal system ; the old coinage {mute) of 40 and 20 centime pieces is, however, sometimes stiU met with.^' SiLVEE Coins. 1 franc = 100 centimes = ^\d. Enghsh. i- „ - 50 „ == 4fd „ ^ „ = 20 „ = 2^. 5 „ = 500 „ = 3^. Hid. „ Gold Coins. Pieces of 20 francs or Napoleons =^ 15.9. \0d, GOLD AND silver WEIGHT. VALUES IN ENGLISH TROY-WEIGHT. Mark. Oncie. Denari. Grani. Ounces. Pennywts. Grains. 1 = 8 = 192 r= 4608 7 18 3 1 :=. 24 -= 576 19 18i 1 === 24 19i The Eubbo, commercial weight, is 25 pounds. This pound or libra contains 1\ Mark or 12 ounces of the gold and silver weight. Therefore, 100 pounds of Tm'in = 81*32 lb. Avoirdupois. * For some years the principal currency throughout the king'dom of Italy has been paper, alwavs at a discount ; it is taken in all monetary transactions, at the railway stations, &c. ; but all tractions of its smaller notes must be paid in silver, no metallic change being given for any excess in paper at the railways. Piedmont. Route 1. — Sasa to Turin, V Wine Measuee. The Brenta is divided into 36 Pente and 72 Boccale. The Brenta =14'88 G-allons Enghsh ; and the Boccale is rather more than a pint and a half j but the Litre is now generally used in all liquid measures. Long- Measure. The metre (with its divisions) is noAV universally adopted throughout Italy ; — of the measures formerly used — The foot = 1272 Enghsh inches, or 0-323 of a metre. The raso or ell == 23*3 English inches, or 0*5915 of a metre. The old Piedmontese mile is reckoned at 2466 metres = 2G97 Enghsh yards r^ 1| mile and 57 yards Enghsh. 45-i'j5 Piedmontese miles are equal to 1 mean degree of latitude. ROUTES. PtOUTE 1. SUSA TO TURIN— RAIL. Susa to Bussoleno. . r Borgone . S. Antonino . Condove . . St. Ambrogio . Kil. 22 26 Avigliana . Kosta . . Alpignano CoUegno . Turin . . Kil. . 29 . 34 . 40 . 44 . 54 34 English miles.* 5 trains daily, in 1 h. 10 m. to 1 h. 55 m.f (For the road from Chambery to Susa, over the Mont Cenis, see Hand- book for Sioitzerland and Savoy ^ E-te. 154.) Luggage is examined, on arriving from France and Savoy, at the Susa rly. station. For modes of crossing the Mont Cenis from Susa, &c., see p. 17. Busa (Hotel de France, near the rly. stat., indifferent, complained of for in- civility and high charges ; Locanda del Sole, reasonable). Travellers arriving by the rlys. late at night would find it more convenient to sleep here, if the * The miles used throughout the Handbooks of Italy, when not otherwise expressed, are English statute milos of 1760 yards each. t The hours of the railway trains throughout this volume are given on the authority of" the latest Orarii, or bills published by the several companies: they are, as throughout Italy, in Roman time. accommodation were better, than to arrive at Turin, where they may find the hotels closed, and be obhged to wander about looking for quarters. This very ancient city, the Segusimu of the Romans, is now reduced to a small extent, scarcely numbering 3300 Inhab. It is still the seat of a bishop- ric, the only token of its former im- portance. It is surrounded with lovely scenery. The Dora-Susma, so called to distinguish it from the Dora-Baltea, in the valley of Aosta, runs by the side of the town. The Arch or City Gate^ erected by Juhus Cottius, the son of King Donnus, about B.C. 8 (a.tj.c. 745), in honour of Augustus, is the most remarkable historical feature of the city ; it is on a road leading from the S.W. of the Cathedral to the Old Castle outside the town, and is supposed to have stood on the Roman road which crossed the Alps of Mont Genevre. This chieftain of tlie Alpine tribes, having submitted to the Roman authority, records his dignity under the humbler title of Prefect : the inscription, now nearly effaced, gives the names of his 14 mountain clans ; whilst the basso-rilievos represent the sacrifices (Suovetaurilia) and other Route 1. — Susa. Sect. I, ceremonies by which the treaty was rati- fied and concluded. The order is Cor- inthian, in a good style for a provincial town, and worthy of the study of the architect. The bas-reliefs, of coarse execution, represent colossal rams and swine followed by horsemen armed with spears, and the sacrifice of bulls — sculp- tures which were perhaps the work of native artists ; the bas-reliefs on the lesser sides have been destroyed. " The arch is a fine but simple building of white marble. The upper part is destroyed, but enough of the attic remains to exhibit the inscrip- tion. On the upper course, in a single line, are the following letters, which re- main very perfect :— IMP. CAESART AUaUSTO DIVI F. PONTIFICI MAXVMO TEIBUNIC. POTES- TATE XV. IMP. XIII. The second course seems to have contained three lines of inscription, but the upper is so nearly destroyed as to suggest the idea that the line above it must have been restored ; the part most exposed could hardly have remained perfect while that below it suffered so much. Many letters of the third line (the middle line of the second course of stones) are distinguishable, but I could not make out the words reported by Millin. The general proportions are not unpleasing, but it is rather singular that the co- lumns are set on a pedestal which raises them considerably above the pilasters of the arch. This diminishes their size and apparent importance. The details of the entablature are in bad taste, and the frieze is ornamented with a bas-relief of men and monsters rudely executed." — Woods. Near this arch two fine torsos of figures in armom^ were discovered, which, without any authority, were supposed to have belonged to statues of Augustus and Cottius. They were sent to Paris for deposit in the Louvre, where they were repaired and com- pleted by the addition of heads, arms, and legs. After the peace these statues were restored to the Sardinian govern- ment, and are now in the cortile of the IJniversity of Turin, The Cathedral of St. Justus is of the 11th centy. The great beU-tower, in the Lombard style, is one of tlie loftiest of its kind. In the cathedral the centre arches and massy piers of the nave belong to a more ancient fabric ; the rest is in a simple Grothic style. In the Chapel of the Virgin is a gilded statue in wood of the 12th centy. of Adelaide Countess of Susa, the princess through whom the House of Savoy acquired the dominions wliich became the origin of its power in Italy. This celebrated lady was thrice married ; first to Her- man Duke of Suabia ; secondly, to Henry Marquis of Montferrat; and thirdly, to Otho, son of Humbert I., Count of Maurienne. It is said that she is buried here ; but others suppose that her body rests at Tm'in. In one of the chapels is a curious mediaeval group in bronze of our Lady of Eoccia Melone with S, Greorge and Bonifacio Rotari, a Crusader of the 12tli centy. A magnifi- cent font, hollowed out of a single block of green Susa marble, stands in the ba]:>tistery. This font is a work of the 11th century, with an ambiguous in- scription, leaving it doubtful whether " Gruigo " was the workman or the donor (supposed, according to the latter interpretation, to be Gruigo Y., first Count of the Viennois) . In the sacristy is shown a large silver cross, said to have been given by Charlemagne. Ancient towers, gateways (one very noble near the cathedral, called the Capitol), and Gothic porticoes, add to the picturesque efiect of the city, con- trasting with the modern edifices and improvements rapidly going on here> Above Susa are the extensive ruins of La Brunetta^ once a very important fortress, and considered as the key of the valley. The road from the Mont Cenis passes near them. The defence which La Brunetta formerly afforded to Piedmont on the side of Savoy was effected by Fort LesseiUon, near Modane, on the other side of Mont Cenis, until its recent cession to France. The Brunetta^ which with the fortresses of Exiles and Fenestrelles formed the line of defences of Piedmont PlEDMOXT. Route 1 . — Monte di Roccia Melone. 9 on the side of France, was destroyed by the French in 1798, in virtue of a stipulation in the treaty with Sardinia of that year, and the demohtion is said to have cost 600,000 francs. The Monte di JRoccia Met one (Mons Homutea), also above Susa, is 11,139 feet above the sea. Upon the summit is a chapel, founded by Bonifaccio dl Asti, a crusader, who, having been taken pri- soner by the Mahometans, made a vow that, if set free, he would erect an ora- tory here in honour of the Yu'gin. The letters wliich bovmd liim are preserved in tlie chapel. An annual procession takes place to this chapel on the 5th of August, the feast of the Assumption. It is not to be accompHshed without mucli difficulty : all the pilgrims are equipped with spiked staves and shoes. It is to the top of the Roccia Me- lone that some of the writers who erroneously maintain that Hannibal crossed the Alps by the pass of Mont Cenis, beheve liim to have led his army, in order to encourage his soldiers by the view of Italy. 3 m. from Susa is the celebrated Abbey of Novalesa^ situated upon the old and now almost abandoned road to the Hospice. Here are the remains of the monastery founded by Abbo, lord of Susa, about the year 739. It was ruined by the Saracens not long after its foundation, when the monks withdrew to Turin, carrying with them their precious collection of MSS. which formed a part of the library of S. Sal- vatore : it was again rebuilt in the 10th century. The convent is now inhabited by a few Benedictine monks. Just outside of Susa, the view, look- ing back upon the town, in which the Roman arch is conspicuous, is very beautifid. It is equally so on looking down the long valley. The furthest extremity of this valley a])pears closed by the lofty Monte Pirchiriano, upon the summit of which may be descried the tower of the Abbey churcli of San Michele. The Roman road over the Alps, whicli was constructed when Cottius submitted to Augustus, passed up this valley, and, turning to the S.W. at Susa, along the valley of the Dora, crossed by the pass of Mt. Genevre. This became the road most frequented by the Romans between Italy and Gaul. Tlie military road of Pompey and Caesar passed through Oidx, and over the Col de Sestrieres. The Rly. and post-roads skirt to 8 kil. Bussoleno Stat., a small town smTOunded by walls and towers. Be- fore reacliing this place, at Foresto on the 1., are quarries of the green marble of Susa, a kind of serpentine, very much like the verd' antique, but possessing less durability. The road again skirts 8 kil. Borgone Stat, Between Bus- soleno and this stat. on the rt. is Sa7i Griorioj displaying its array of walls and towers, and an ancient fortress ascending the hill wliich crowns it, standing out boldly, and rising stage above stage with great beauty. 3 kil. Sanf Antonino Stat., a small town, in which the principal feature is a very ancient Lombard tower. 3 kil. Condove Stat., on the 1. bank of the Dora. The gorge here narrows, and becomes exceedingly picturesque. From the beginning of the traveller's progress down the valley of Susa, he will have seen before him, in the distance, a very lofty liiU, upon the sinnmit of which a builcliiig, apparently a tower, can be faintly discerned, the whole mass appearing to close the valley. This mountain is the Monte Pirchiriano, between wliich and the Monte Caprasio was the ancient for- tified line erected a.d. 774 by Desiderius King of the Lombards, by which he vainly endeavoured to defend his king- dom against Charlemagne ; but of these defences no traces are now to be found, except in the name of the neighbour- ing hamlet of Chiusa, The waU was defended by bulwarks and towers ; but Charlemagne did not attack them — a minstrel from the Lombard camp be- trayed the existence of a secret and unfortified path, through which the forces of the King of the Franks pene- trated. Desiderius fled to Pavia, and the Lombard monarchy was over- thrown. b3 10 Route 1 . — Monastery di San Michele. Sect. I. On tlie moiuitain on the E. stands ' the monastery, or the " Sagra di San Micliele^'' one of the most remarkable rehgions monuments of Piedmont. It is supposed to have been originally an oratory, founded by Amisone Bishop of Turin, in the 10th century. Beams of fire descending from heaven marked, it vi^as said, the spot, and hghted the tapers employed for its consecration. As a monastery, it vras rebuilt by Hugh de Montboissier, a nobleman of Auvergne (between the years 970 and 998), who for some heinous crime had been enjoined the penance of found- ing a monastery in the Alps. In its flourishing days the Sagra contained 300 monks of the order of St. Benedict, who kept up the " laus perennis," or perpetual service, in the choir; and its history is connected with several of the most important personages and events in that of Piedmont and Savoy. The mountain can be ascended most easily from S. Ambrogio, but only on foot or mule-back. Its summit is 2880 feet above the level of the sea. The higher portion is covered with fine groves of chesnut-trees, tln^ough which you pursue a winding path. Still higher up are secluded and picturesque farms, which, with the woods, constitvite almost aU the property that this once opulent monastery retains. Like most of the monasteries dedicated to St. Michael, this Sagra has the character at once of a castle and a church : great masses of ruins surround the habitable portion. A rock near it is called the Salto delta Bella Alda. The fair Alda leaped from the summit and reached the ground in safety, under the protection of the Virgin. Vainglorious and rash, she attempted the leap a second time, and perished by the fall. Injudicious repairs have diminished the effects of the building ; but it is yet a complete castle of romance, — walls growing out of rocks, and rocks built in and form- ing walls and foundations of the edifice. Passing by a ruined outwork, whose circular windows bespeak its early date, we traverse a low vaulted gallery, and reach a smaU terrace. Before us is a tower, rismg out of, and also abutting or leaning against the rock : the lower part contains the staircase by which we ascend to the monastery ; the upper portion of the tower forms the extremity of the chou', and terminates in an open Lombard gallery of small circular arches supported by pillars : this is one of the oldest and most curious features of the building. The height, looking down from the outer gallery, is great : an iron balustrade has been fitted into the interstices. This staircase is sup- ported by an enormous central pier : here and there the rocks against which the edifice is built jut out, and por- tions of sepulchres are dimly seen. At the summit is a great arch, filled witli desiccated corpses. Until recently these corpses were placed sitting upon the steps of the stands ; and as you ascended to the church you had to pass between the ranks of these ghastly sentinels. Whence the corpses came, or why they were placed there, is not known : respected, if not venerated, the peasants used to dress them up and adorn them with flowers, wliich must have rendered them still more hideous. The extremely beautiful circular arch, by wliich we pass from the staircase to the corridor leading to the church, is a vestige of the original building. It is composed of grey marble, Lombard in style, and sculptured with the signs of the zodiac and inscriptions in very early Longobardic characters. The church itself is in a plain Gothic style : the choir retains vestiges of an earlier age. A fine Grothic tomb, representing an ab- bot, has excited much controversy. The late king caused the remains of Carlo Emanuele 11. (the father of Vittorio Amedeo, the first King of Sar- dinia, whose monument is in the ca- thedral at Turin), and of several other members of the royal family, to be re- moved hither from Turin ; and it was supposed that he intended to render San Michele the future place of burial of the royal family. The remainder of the Sagra is composed of a wilderness of ruined halls and corridors, and of the cells and other apartments inhabited by the con- Piedmont. Route 1. — Sanf Amlrogio — Rivoli. 11 fraternity to whom the monastery is now assigned. The Benedictines have disappeared ; and long before the Re- volution theu' possessions had been much dilapidated. It was considered as one of those good " pieces of prefer- ment " which tlie cro^^'n might dispose of; and the celebrated Prince Eugene, all booted and spurred, a^^pears in tlie list of abbots. The monastery was given some years ago to the priests of tlie Instituto della CaHta^ called Rosmi- nians, from the name of their founder — an order of recent origin, and belonging to a class of regulars now much encou- raged by the Church of Rome, as better suited to the exigencies of the age than the more ancient ascetic confraternities. They are prmcipally employed in educa- tion. The views from the summit of the mountain, and more particularly from the outer gallery of the cliou', are of the greatest beauty, and would alone repay the traveller for the toil of the ascent. 4 kil. Sant"* Amhrogio Stat.^ a vil- lage at the foot of the Monte Pirchiri- ano. The houses with their projecting galleries are pleasing objects ; and there is a decent small inn at the place. The church is rather remarkable. A little beyond is seen Avigliana^ with a fine feudal castle standing out boldly above the towTi, and forming with it a beauti- ful group. 3 kil. AvigUana Stat. Avigliana is a very unaltered town, and fuU of shattered fragments. The church of San Fletro is of very liigh antiquity, and supposed, Hke many buildings of the same class, to have been a heathen temple. The Monte Musino in the neighbourhood furnishes some remarkable minerals, amongst others the Sgdrophane^ which, o^Daque when dry, has the property of be- coming transparent when immersed in water. The neighbouring woods also furnish much game, both for the sportsman and the ornithologist. Near Avigliana are two small pleasing and secluded lakes, the Lago della Madonna and the I^ago di San J^artolommeo. The Dora adds greatly to the beauty of the scenery in this vicinity. About here the Alpine valley of Susa ends, and the traveller now enters the great valley of the Po. At some little distance from the road is seen the church of Sanf An- tonio di Rinverso, anciently belonging to the Knights Hospitallers, and con- secrated in 1121 by Pope Calixtus Y. It is Grothic, and built of moulded brick ; the pinnacles and all other or- naments being formed with' much deli- cacy. This is a specimen of a style almost peculiar to Lombardy, of which the traveller wiU find the full display at Milan, Piacenza, and Pavia. The roof is of brilliant painted tiles ; and both within and without are some in- teresting frescoes. The high altar is of the 15th century. The country is plea- santly w^ooded. 5 kil. Rosta Stat, in the plain below the hill of Eivoli. Riholi, a town of about 5200 Inliab., pleasantly situated, above which towers the great unfinished palace begun by Juvara, and exhibiting many of his pecuharities. This palace was one of the places of confinement in which Vittorio Amedeo II. was incarcerated dm-ing the short interval which elapsed between the unfortunate attempt wliich he made to re -ascend the throne and his death. He had abdicated (1730) in favour of his son Carlo Emanuele III., and had retu'ed to Chambery. taking the title of Conte di Tenda, He was a wise and good monarch ; and in his person the House of Savoy ob- tained the island of Sardinia and the regal title ; but a short time after his retirement he grew weary of a private life, and formed a scheme for repossess- ing himself of the royal authority. Some say that his intellect was im- paired ; others, that he was instigated by the ambition of the Countess of Sommariva, for whom he had re- nounced the crown, and whom he married immediately after his abdica- tion. The royal revenant was speedily 12 Route 1. — Turin, Sect. I. laid. The council of Carlo Emaniiele readily concurred in the opmion that Vittorio should be seized — a deter- mination which was probably not re- tarded by his boast that he would take good care to behead all his son's minis- ters. He was accordingly brought to RivoH, Sept. 1731, and kept in what was equivalent to soHtary confinement. His attendants and guards were strictly prohibited from speaking to him ; and, if he addressed them, they maintained the most inflexible silence, answering only by a very low and submissive bow — a miserable mockery of respect. He was afterwards permitted to have the company of his wife, and remove to another prison; but, on the 31st of October, 1732, he died. Some of the rooms have recently been fitted up for the late king. There are many pictures in the palace — a collection of views in Piedmont by the brothers Cig- naroli, landscapes by Vanloo^ and a series of historical scenes from the lives of Amedeo YII. and YIII., Counts of Savoy. The air of E-ivoli is remarkably pure, and the country around is very healthy. Hence the town and its vicinity abound in villas. At Rivoli commences an avenue of pollard elms, about six miles in length, leading to Turin, the distant extre- mity of the vista being terminated by the hill and ch. of Superga. 6 kil. Alpignano Stat, near the village of Pianezza, on the opposite side of the river. The railway has on the rt. the long alley of elms leading from Ei- voli to the capital. 4 kil. Collegno Stat., a small town on the Dora, in the most fertile part of the plain : it gives a count's title to the Provana family. Here is a large Carthusian monastery; the Ionic fa- cade was added to it in 1727. The knights of the Order of the Annunciad (the G-arter of Piedmont) are interred under the ch. annexed to this monas- tery. The large chateau belongs to the Provanas. From Collegno to the capital the railway crosses the plain for 10 kil. to Turin Terminus, at the S. extre- mity of the town. Omnibuses are in waiting to convey travellers to the principal hotels on the arrival of the trains. Broughams, &c. Turin. Inns: Hotel Tromhetta, formerly Peder, in the Palazzo Sonnaz, via di Bogino, kept by the former owner of the Hotel de I'Europe ; very good in every respect ; table-d'h6te ex- cellent, with magnificent salle a manger; baths, reading, and smoking rooms ; bedrooms from 2 frs. and upwards ; table-d'hote, including wine, 4 frs. ; id. in apartments 6 frs. ; breakfast, with eggs, 1 fr. 75 c. ; service 1 fr. per diem. English spoken. Sotel de VBurojpe, in the Piazza de Castello, also very good, with nearly same prices ; fine dining-hall, comfort- able in every respect. Hotel delta lAguria, in the street leading to and nearer the rly. station. Cafes and Restaurateurs : The Cafes of Turin are numerous, and superior to those of many other cities in Italy ; the EioriOjthe Cafe Romano, San Carlo, and Cafe Nazionale in the Via del Po, are the best. There are restaurateurs on the French plan : le Indie ; and la Yerna. At these establishments din- ners may be had from 2 to 5 francs. The best restaurants, however, are at the Hotel de VJEurojpe and the Tram- hetta. There is a good cafe and res- taurant at the rly. stat. The chocolate of Turin is reckoned the best in Italy. The Piedmontese bread, in long thin wands, called "grissini," is remarkably good. It was introduced by a physi- cian of that name, who found it in his own case more digestible than the ordi- nary bread. It takes its name from him. The Post-office is in the Yia del Teatro d'Angennes and Piazza Carlo Alberto, behind the Palazzo Carignano. The letters for Genoa and Tuscany, Rome and Naples, leave at a very early hour, so that they must be posted before 9 p.jM. on the preceding day. For France, England, and all countries THE lirMHY OF IHfc WNIViRSlTY OnUlHOJS CirUECHES.— 1, Cathedral; 2. S. Maurizio; 3. S. Domenico; 4. Corpus Domini; 6. S. Filippo ; 6. S. Teresa ; 7. La Consolata ; 8, La Madre di Die ; 9. Cappuccini. PALACES— 10. Eeale; 11. Madama ; 12. Carignano; 13. Dell Acoademia and Museums ; 14. Del Municipio ; 15. University ; 16. Delle Belle Arti. 17. Piazza Snsina ; 18. Piazza cTItalia ; 19. Teatro Ker'gio ; 20. Teatro ; 21. Teatro Angennes ; 22. Teatro ; 23. Teatro Nazionale ; 24. Great Hospital ; 25. Post Office. HOTELS.— 26. Europa ; 27. Gran Bretagna ; 28. Feeler. Piedmont. Route 1. — Turin: Conveyances, 17 to the north, the office closes at 8J p.m., and the courier leaves at 11. Letters to England may be prepaid or not : postage CO c. ; to the United States 1-20 ; to France and G-ermany, 10 c. ; to any point of the kingdom of Italy and the Papal States, 20 c.: letters not pre- paid are charged double the amount of prepayment, on dehvery in England and France, and vice versa on arriving in Piedmont. SacJciiey Coaches. — There are ex- cellent hackney coaches, or fiacres-r- cittadini ; fares, 1 horse 75 c. a com'se, 1 fr. half an hour, 1 fr. 50 c. per hour ; 2 horses, ^ fr. extra per course and per hour ; 20 c. per parcel, excepting carpet bags and hat-boxes ; private car- riages 10 francs for half a day, 15 for the whole; excursion to the Superga 30 francs with 4 horses, with 2 horses 20. For most purposes of excursion in and about the city, the fiacres answer quite as well as the more expensive car- riages hired at the hotels. The owners of the Hotel de I'Europe and Trom- betta fm'nish carriages at the same rates as the hackney ones. Diligences^ Mallespostes, Sfc. — Most of the pubhc conveyances out of Turin are now in connection with the rlys. ; the first m importance to the general tra- veller being those that crossing the Mont Cenis into France, until lately, in great part, replaced by the Fell Rly. A mallepost starts every evening from the Post-office at 11*50 in summer, in winter at 10*40 ; and as its fares are only 8 fr. more than by tlie diligences to St. Michel, it is to be preferred, especially in the winter season, as, from the state of tlie roads, the latter overloaded velii- cles sometimes arrive too late for the express railway train. The malleposte takes 11 passengers, 6 inside, and 3 in the coupe, and 2 on tlie banquette as far as St. Michel. The administration of the Victor Emanuel Railway, whose offices are near the Post-office, despatch every day from Susa, on the ari'ival of the 11*50 P.M. tram from Turin as many diligences as are necessary to convey its passengers over the Mont Cenis ; they are in correspondence with the express trains from St. Michel lor Paris, Lyons, and Geneva. Seats in the coupes can be secured at a trifling extra charge, the whole fare being to Paris 1041^ fr. and 107 ; and passengers can have their luggage registered at the office of the company in the city for its des- tination by sending it a few hours be- fore, which will save them much trouble. In ordinary weather the trains by the Fell Rly. leave Turin at 5*25 a.m., and Susa at 7*7 o'clock, arriving at St. Michel at 11*35 a.m., before the depar- ture of the train at 12*45 p.m., giving the traveller time to breakfast. By this express-train passengers will arrive in Paris at 6'55 a.m. on the following morning ; Geneva and Lyons on the same evening. Fares to Paris, 110 frs., 1st class. Diligences and a Malle- j)Oste for Nice start every evening from Cuneo on the arrival of the last railway train from Turin, cross- ing the Col di Tenda, and reaching Nice at 5 p.m. Places may be secm-ed at the office in the Yia di Cavour at Turin ; to Aosta by railway as far as Ivrea. Private Conveyances for crossing Mont Cenis^ Vetturini, ^c. — Borgo, who will be found at the Hotel de I'Europe, and whose office is under the portico close by, will undertake to convey tra- vellers from the Susa to the rly. station at St. Michel, in from 9 to 10 hours, changing horses 4 times on the road; in this way, by leaving Turin by the train at 5*40 a.m., St. Michel (where there is a very fair inn, the Poste) can be reached on the same evening, or, if leaving by the 11*50 p.m. train, m ample time for the express trains to Geneva, Lyons, and Paris the next day. Borgo' s charges, including all tolls, postihons' fees, but not in- cluding bueno mano, &c., are given in a printed tariff. The same arrange- ments can be made at St. Michel. Per- sons, before leaving Paris, will do well, however, beforehand, to write to Borgo 1^ Route 1. — Turin : Railways, ^c. Sect. I. at tlie Hotel de 1' Union at S. Michel, Savoie. The same arrangement may be made at the railway office, but their charges are higher, their carriages per- haps not so comfortable, and complaints have been made at the way the service is performed and the want of punc- tuality in arriving in time for the rly. trains at Susa and St. Michel. Travellers must be cautioned against the attempts made at the rly. station liere to prevent their employing other carriages than their own indifferent ones ; not only by asserting that there are no others on the road, but by preventing them taking up at the sta- tion. They will do weU^ therefore, on reaching St. Michel, to proceed at once to the hotel where Borgo's office is, to engage their carriage, to deliver the rly. receipt for their luggage to the vetturino, who will see it properly packed, &c. The Hotel de la Samari- taine, within the station, is of very little use to travellers, the furnishing of food being interdicted to the master, in con- sequence of the monopoly granted to the person holding the Buffet by the rly. company. Hallways are now open in every direction from Turin : — Between Turin and Genoa 5 times a day, in 4 to 5f hrs., passing by Asti, Alexandria, and Novi : to Susa 5 times a day (in corre- spondence with the Fell Rly. over M.t. Cenis ; that at 5 a.m. reaches Susa at 7i, when the new line over the Alps on the Fell system starts for St. Michel, which it reaches in 5^ hrs., in time for the express train to Paris, where it arrives early next morning, performing the whole journey in about 26 hrs.), in \^ and 2 hrs. : to Finerolo 4 times a day, in 1 hr. 10 m. : to Cuneo 4i times a day, in 2 hrs. 45 m., with branches to Bra, Alba, and Sa- luzzo : to Milan 4 times a day, in 3 hrs., 35 m. to 5 hrs. 20 m., with branches to Ivrea and the Yal d'A osta, to Biella, to Grozzano for Orta, to Arona on the Lago Maggiore, and to Casale, Mortara, and Vigevano : to Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Rimini, 4 times a day, with 3 trains daily from the latter to Ancona, 2 from the latter to Foggia, Benevento, !N"aples, Bari, Brindisi. Taranto, and Lecce. The principal Ely. Stat, is at the ex- tremity of the Via Nuova, at the S. ex- tremity of the city ; the other, at the end of the Yia di Chernaja, beyond the j old citadel, is now seldom used for pas- senger traffic. Omnibuses from the dif- ferent hotels will be found in attend- ance on the arrival of the trains. For details respecting the times of starting and fares see the several routes. Fhysician, Dr. Pacchiotti, who speaks English, formerly medical at- tendant to the British Legation, Yia deir Ospedale. Homaeo^pathic Physicians. Dr. Ajmini, Dr. Dadia, 2, Piazza S. Carlo. Chemist, Uegia Pharmacia. Masino, Yia di S. Filippo. Gruide-books, works of art, engrav- ings, and maps at Maggi's in the Yia del Po ; Boeuf, for Italian works, in the Yia deir Academia delle Scienze ; with an EngHsh circulating library. There are several handsome shops under the arcades of the Piazza del Castello and the Yia Dora. Turin has some celebrity for its kid gloves ; one of the best makers being Fiorio, No. 15, Yia Dora Grrossa ; they are cheaper than those of Paris. Lambskin, with 1 button, 1 fr. VSc, with 2, 2 frs. The JEnglish Protestant Service is performed every Sunday, at 11 A.M., in an apartment at the rear of the Yau- dois Ch. in the Stradale del Re, by a clergyman appointed by the Foreign and Colonial Church Society, but con- tributions are solicited of travellers for the maintenance of the building, Service in French at 10*45 a.m. ; and in Italian at 9 and 11 k.^, and 8 p.m. British Consul, D. E. Colnaghi, Esq., 20, Yia di S. Filippo. American Yice- Consul, Mr. W. Magaan. No. 19, Yia dei Fiori. There are no suburbs to Turin : what were the subm^bs are taken into the town, and continuously built Piedmont. Route 1. — Turin: History, 19 upon. It may be said to be one of the most flom'ishing cities of Europe. In 186i it reached 204,782, since which, and by the removal of the capital to Florence, it has been reduced to under 200,000. Tm'in is now unfortified ; the citadel and its outworks — rased to make room for the station of the Novara and Milan Rly. and the new portion of tlie town rapidly extending in that dh'cction — was a remarkable monument of mihtary architectm'e. It was built by Emanuele Filiberto in 1565 ; and, preceding Ant- werp by two or three years, was the earliest specimen of regular fortification in Europe. In Italy, the land the most rich in recollections of the past, Tm^in is per- haps the poorest city in this respect. Its history, whether under the Empire or dm-ing the middle ages, is almost a blank. Some of its marquises are ob- scm'ely noticed; Claudius Bishop of Turin (died 840) was distinguished by his opposition to the use of images in Divine worship, as a breach of the second commandment, and to the veneration of relics. Tmin has been repeatedly ruined: the last ravages it sustained were from Francis I., in 1536, who demolished the extensive suburbs, and reduced the Hmits of its ancient walls ; destroying at the same time the ampliitheatre and several other Roman remains. It is therefore almost denuded of any ves- tiges of classical or mediaeval antiquity. A portion of the walls of the Porta Palatina, at the N. extremity of the city, and so called from the two round towers which were added during the middle ages, and some of the lower part of the Palazzo Madama, are perhaps the only exceptions. The reconstruction of the city, begun by Emanuele Filiberto and Carlo Emanuele I., is more due to Carlo Emanuele II. and Vittorio Ame- deo II. StiU further improvements have been more recently made, under the tlii'ee late kings and the reigning mo- narch. At least one fourth of the city has been erected since the restoration of the royal family, and of later years nearly one-third has been added to it on the S. side, where entire streets and squares are rising as if by magic; a proof of the great prosperity of the country under its liberal institutions, wliich have made Tui;in the refuge of the persecuted and oppressed all over Italy. The streets, are all in straight lines, intersecting each other at right angles. The blocks, or masses, of build- ings, formed by these intersections, are called isole^ an architectural Latinism retained here and also in Provence. The houses are of brick intended for stucco. They are large, the windows and doors are ornamented, and crowned with a cornice. Through the perspec- tive of the streets, the hills which sur- round the city, and the more distant Alps, are continually in view. Turin is situated in the plain which forms the angle between the Dora Riparia and the Po, just above the junction of these two rivers : the first is a fine mountain-torrent ; the latter a deep and rapid river. " Cosi scendendo dal natio suo monte Non empie umile il P6 1' anjjusta sponda ; Ma sempre piu, quanto e piu lunge al fonte, Di nove forze insuperbito abonda. Sovra i rotti confini alza la fronte Di tauro, e vincitor d' intorno iuonda; E con piu coma Adria respinge, e pare Che guerra porti, e non tributo, al mare." — Tasso, Gier. Lib., ix. st. 46. It is supposed to have been founded by a Ligurian tribe called the Taurini ; the earliest mention we find of it is for its resistance to Hannibal after his cele- brated passage of the Alps. At a later period it became a Roman colony un- der the name of Augusta Taurinoruni. Destroyed by Constantino for having espoused the cause of Maxentius, sacked and ruined successively by Stilicho, At- tila, and Odoacer, we find it in the hands of its dukes at the invasion of the Lombards. In the 11th century it was the capital of a County, the chief of which and last of the male branch, Manfred III., married his only daughter Adelaide to Otho of Savoy in 1045, the origin of its possession by the present royal family. The most remarkable events in the more modern history of 20 Eoute 1. — Turin: Climate; Cathedral. Sect. I. Turin are the two memorable sieges it stood in 1649 and 1706 : the first dur- ing the contest between the French and Spaniards, when the latter, headed by Prince Tomasso of Savoy, capitulated to Marshal d'Harcourt: the second dur- ing the war of the Succession, when. Piedmont taking part against Louis XIY., Y. Amadeo was beseiged in his capital, whicli he defended heroically for 3 months before a very superior force, until the arrival of Prince Eugene and the imperialist army, which was followed by the signal defeat of the French (Sept. 7, 1706), and their being forced to raise the siege. Beyond the Po is the lovely range of hills called the Collina dl Torino^ rising to the heiglit of nearly 1600 feet. They are sparkhng with villas ; their valleys are richly clothed wdth vegeta- tion ; and advantage has been taken of these varieties of surface in many of the beautiful gardens and grounds attached to the villas. The chmate of Turin is influenced by the vicinity of the Alps ; the winters are cold and foggy, the quantity of rain is considerable ; and hail-storms are frequent in summer, when the crops are sometimes literally cut in pieces by til em. The architect principally employed at Turin by Carlo Emanuele II. was Guarini (1624-1683), a Theatine monk, an able mathematician, and w^ho well used his mathematical knowledge in his bold and daring constructions. Juvara, a Sicihan by birth (1685-1735), was much patronised by Vittorio Amedeo II. There is a great difference in the style of these two architects, but both have in common a neglect of the rules of Vitruvius or Palladio ; more mode- rated perhaps in Juvara, but carried to the utmost extent in Guarini. Hence both have been much criticised. The Cathedral, or Duomo, is the oldest of the ecclesiastical edifices in Turin. The original structure was found- ed by Agilulph King of the Lombards, about 602. The present building was begun 1498, and consecrated in 1505, The architect's name is unknown, Bac- cio PinteUi by some being supposed to have designed it, whilst otliers attribute it to Meo del Cajprino : it has been much altered, and some arabesques in the pilasters of the fa9ade are the only remarkable portions of the original structure. The interior has been very recently decorated with frescoes. The vaulting contains subjects from Scrip- tm'e history, from the expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise to the giving of the Law. Over the arches are the principal events in the life of St. John tlie Baptist ; at the west end is a copy of the Cenacolo of Leonardo da Vinci. The older pictures are not very remarkable. Tlie best are the fol- lowing : Albert Durer, the Virgin and Saints, in the 2nd chapel on rt. — F. Zucchero, the Resurrection. — Casella^ St. Cosmo and St. Damiano. — Two statues, by 'Pierre le Gros, of Sta. Te- resa and Sta. Christina, have been much praised ; but, except in their mechanical execution, they have not great merit. There are few sepulchral monuments in this church. The most remarkable is that in the winter choir, of Claude Seyssell, who, after fiUing successively the places of professor in the university of Turin, and of Master of Requests in France, where he was employed by Louis XII. on several diplomatic mis- sions, became Bishop of Marseilles, and, subsequently. Archbishop of Tm-in, where he died in 1520. The liigh altar is richly ornamented : in the 1. transept is the gallery for the royal family. The sacristy contains several magni- ficent crosses, vases, reliquiaries, and the like, of which the chief is a large statue of the Virgin, crowned, and standing under a silver-gilt canopy. On the festival of the Nativity of the Virgin (8th Sept.) a procession takes place, equally in honour of the Virgin and in commemoration of the deli- very of the city from the French (see Swperga, p. 36) in 1706. Vittorio Amedeo, assisted by the Imperial and Prussian troops, under Prince Eugene and Field Marshal Daun, who occupiecl Piedmont. Route 1. — Turin : Santo Sudario. 21 Turin, and the Prince of Anhalt, gained a complete and decisive victory. The French lost 153 pieces of cannon and 60 mortars ; this victory was the sal- vation of the house of Savoy, whose destruction was vowed by Louis XIV. with the most inveterate antipathy. Of late years tliis procession has been so much reduced in splendour as to be now scarcely worth the traveller's puttmg himself out of the way to wit- ness it. Another procession takes place on the festival of Corpus Domini. Behind the cathedral, seen through the arch over the high altar, and en- tered by a flight of stairs on the rt., is the chapel of the Santo Sindone^ or JSudaHo, considered as the masterpiece of Gruarini. Its cupola is formed of arched ribs, from the summits of which others spring in succession, thus form- ing a sort of dome. The capitals of the columns, and some other ornamen- tal portions, are of bronze. In these capitals the crown of thorns is in- troduced amidst the leaves of the acanthus. The pavement is inlaid with bronze stars. In the centre is the altar, of black marble, upon which is placed the shrine, brilliant with gold, silver, and precious stones. Foiu' silver lamps, given by the late queen, are suspended on either side. The Santo Sudario, ac- cording to the ecclesiastical legend, is one of the folds of the shroud in which our Lord was -wrapped by Joseph of Arimathea, and on which an impression was left of the body ; other folds being preserved at Rome, at Besan9on, and at Cadouin in Perigord. The one at Turin was brought from Cyprus, and presented in 1452, by Margherite de Charni, the descendant of a nobleman of Champagne, who was said to have obtained it during the Crusades : but there is no mention of its existence until the fifteenth century, when, having been given by Margherite to Duke Louis IL, it was first deposited at Cbambery, from which it was brought to Turin, in 1578, by Emanuel Phihbert, for the purpose of enabling St. Carlo Borromeo to venerate it without the fatigue of crossing the Alps. While it was at Chambery it was invoked by Francis I. previous to the battle of Marignano, and on his return to France he went on foot from Lyons to worship it. A sitting statue of the late Queen Maria Adelaide, by Hevelli, a Grenoese sculptor, has been recently erected in this chapel. In the niches round the sanctuary have been placed by King Charles Albert monuments to four of the most renowned members of the house of Savoy — viz. to Emanuel Pliilibert, whose remains are beneath — a fine work by Marchesi; to Prince Thomas of Savoy, from whom descend the present Sovereigns of Italy, of the branch of Carignano, by Gaggini, a Genoese and pupil of Canova; to Charles Emanuel IL, by Fracaroli ; and to Amedeo YIIL, by Cacciatori. The inscriptions are from the pen of Cava- lier e Cibrario. Many of the other chmT.hes of Turin are splendidly decorated : amongst these may be noticed — Ch. of La Consolata, which derives its name from a supposed miraculous painting of the "Virgin, the object of much veneration. The picture is, in the opinion of Lanzi, the production of a pupil of the school of Griotto, though attributed by the legend to the age of St. Eusebius, Bishop of Vercelli, in the 4tli century. This building is a com- bination of three churches opening into each other ; the most ancient founded in the 10th centy. by the monks of the abbey of Novalesa, after their expulsion by the Saracens, and dedicated to St. Andrew. The present edifice dates from the end of the 17th centy. ; the archi- tect was Guarini. Juvara subsequently erected the inner ch. and high altar. It is richly decorated with marbles, many of which are very beautiful. In a recess on 1. of ^Itar is a monument to the two last Queens of Sardinia, Maria Teresa and Maria Adelaide, with good kneeling marble statues. The whole ch. and corridor leading to it are covered with ex votos, chiefly paintings of the rudest 22 Route 1, — Turin: Churches; Royal Palace, Sect. I. kind. On the Piazza opposite tlie eh. stands a handsome column of Biella granite, erected in 1835, surmounted by a statue of the Virgin of the Consolata, to commemorate the cessation of the cholera. Ch. del Corpus Domini (one of the most decorated m Turm), built by Vitozzi in 1607 ; but the whole of the interior is from the designs of Coun- Alfieri. It is very rich, and is a charac- teristic specimen of the arcliitect and of liis age. In the nave is a railed-in marble inscription, on the spot where it took place, to commemorate the mu'aculous recovery of a piece of Sacra- mental plate containing the blessed wafer, which, being stolen during the pillage of ExiUes by a soldier, and hidden in one of his panniers, the ass carrying it refused to pass the chm^ch door ; the sacred vase fell to the ground, and the wafer, rising into the air, re- mained suspended there, encircled with rays of light, until the bishop and his clergy came out to receive it. This singular miracle, said to have taken place on the 6th of June, 1453, is repre- sented in 3 paintings on the vault of the nave. Cli. of San Domenico contains a pic- tm'e of the Virgin and Child presenting the rosary to the patron saint, by G-uercino. CJi. of Sem Filippo, This church was one of the trials of skill of Gruarini, but here it failed him ; and the cupola, Avliich was somewhat upon the plan of that of the Santo Sadario, with a great part of the church, feU in 1714. It was rebuilt by Juvara. San Filippo is one of the finest churches in Turin. Over the heavy high altar, supported by 6 barbarous torse columns, is a painting of the Virgin and Child with S. John and S. Eusebius, and 2 holy persons of the House of Savoy, by Carlo Maratta. In other parts of the church are pictures of S. Philip before the Virgin, by Solimena^ and of S. John Nepomucene, by Seh. Conca. Ch. of San Lorenzo^ on the Piazza del CasteUo, an extreme example of the fancy of Gruarini, is curious from its fantastical dome, formed on ribs, each of wliicli is the chord of 3-8tlis of a circle. It was erected by Ema- nuele Filiberto in consequence of a vow for his success at the battle of St. Quentin. La gran Madre di Dlo, opposite the bridge over the Po, Avas begun 1818 in commemoration of the restoration of the royal family, and finished ajbout 1840. The building is in imitation of the Pantheon at Eome, the architect Buonsignore. This edifice is said to have cost 100,000Z. sterling, chiefly contributed by king Carlo Felice, and forms a fine close to the vista at the extremity of the Via del Po. Ck. ofSa7tMaurizio,heloi\gmg to the mihtary order of St. Maurizio and S. Lazzaro, with an oval cupola -, and a recent fagade by Mosca, There are nearly 40 other chm^ches in Tm'ui, none very remarkable for their architecture, their historical interest, or the objects of art which they contain. A handsome Protestant church was commenced in 1851, and consecrated 2 years afterwards, in the fine Viale dei Platani of the Stradale del Be, chiefly for the use of the Vaudois, of whom there is a considerable number settled at Turin. The service is per- formed in French, according to the Vaudois rite. The building, by the architect Formento, is in a Lombardo- Norman style. The principal part of the expense was contributed by the government, which, for this, and for even having assented to the erection of such an edifice, has been visited with great animadversion by the bi- goted party. The English Protestant service is celebrated in an apartment opening out of the Via del Po, in the Piedmont. Route 1. — 2\ Eoyal Palace ; Armoury, 23 rear of the A'audois Ch., by ii clergy- man appointed by the British, Fo- reign, and Colonial Society. The Piazza Castello, containmg some of the principal public edifices, is sur- I'ounded by lofty palaces, which extend also along the Yia del Po, a noble perspective, terminating with the green slopes of la CoUma ; in the same man- ner as the Yia di Dora Grrossa, on the other side of the Piazza, termmates in the opposite direction with the pro- spect of the snowy peaks of the Alps about Mont Cenis. The Royal JPalace^ on the N. side of the Piazza, was raised by Carlo Ema- nuele II., from the designs of the Count di Castellamonte. The exterior has no pretension to magnificence, ex- cept from its size. The fine ii'on rail- ing and gates which separate it from the Piazza are from designs by Palagi ; the bronze statues of Castor and Pollux by Sangiorgio. The interior is well arranged, and, besides the usual apart- ments for the state and residence of a sovereign, contains within it many of the pubhc offices. On the princi- pal staircase is an equestrian statue of Yittorio Amedeo I., commonly 'called "JZ Cavallo di Marmo,'' the animal being much more prominent than his rider. The figures of captives at the feet of the horse are by Adriano Frisio, a scholar of Griov. da Bologna. The great old-fashioned haU, formerly appropriated to the Swiss Gruards, is open to the pubhc. The large hall or anteroom of the Guards is covered with paintings of battle-scenes : open- ing out of it on the rt. is the suite of royal apartments. In the first room is a large picture of the Judgment of Solomon, by Podesti ; in the second a large painting of the battle of St. Quen- tin, attributed to Palina Giovane. The state apartments are splendidly furnisli- ed ; modern luxury being united to the heavy magnificence of the last century. They were restored and newly deco- rated during the reign of Charles Albert, under the directions of Cav. Palagi. The inlaid floors, in woods of different co- lours, are remarkably beautiful. In the King's Salle de Travail are a series of modern paintings of members of the House of Savoy remarkable for their piety, or who were members of religious orders. The Great Gallery^ a splendid apartment overlooking the gardens, con- tains portraits of sovereigns of the reigning family, and of men of eminence in every department,natives of the coun- try. Beyond this is the apartment of the Queen, with magnificent bou- doirs. In the room called the Gtiarda- roha delta Regina are some good Etrus- can vases, and a large picture of Taor- mina, with jEtna in the distance^ by Cav. Massimo W Azeglio ; near this is the Gharpel, gaudy and heavy. The State Dining-room contains several in- different historical pictures — one of a tournament at the Court of France be- ' tween Amadeus YIII. of Savoy and the three English Earls of Harrington, Arundel, and Pembroke. The Salle de Reception de laRelne is richly decorated with a profusion of Chinese and Japan porcelain vases. The last apartment is the State Ball-room, which offers no- thing remarkable. The Chapel of the Santo Sudario, generally closed during the afternoon on the side of the Cathe- dral, can always be entered from the palace, near the anteroom of the State apartments. The King's Private Library, on the ground floor, is a very handsome hall, containing 40,000 printed vols, and 2000 MSS. Amongst the latter are some curious documents and cor- respondence : — the materials sent by Frederick "the Grreat" to Count Alga- rotti as the basis for the history of the seven years' war ; letters of Emanuel Philibert, Prince Eugene, and Napo- leon ; many Arabic and Syrian manu- scripts. Cavaliere Promis is the libra- rian. There is also a valuable collection of drawings by old masters, formed hj Yolpato. In the passage leading into tlie library are several early Christian inscriptions from the Catacombs at 24 Route l.-^Turin: Armoury* Sect. 1. Eome, a few in Greek characters. The palace communicates by a wing, called the Gralerie cli Beaumont, mth the for- mer offices of the Secretaries of State. Under the roof of the palace, and adjoining the state apartments, but en- tered from the side of the Piazza, is the Armeria Regia. This collection was formed in 1834, partly from the ar- senals of Turin and Grenoa, and partly from private collections pm^chased by the late king, especially that of the Mar- tinengo family of Brescia. It contains several pieces of liistorical interest, and is considered as one of the prin- cipal shows of Turin. It had been judi- ciously arranged by the late du'cctor. Count SeysseU d' Aix ; and is open every day except Sunday and Monday, from 11 to 2 o'clock P.M. Permission to visit it is to be obtained in the library below. The armoury consists of two halls. In the first is a collection of stan- dards of the Sardinian and Italian ar- mies at diiFerent periods ; of modern warlike implements, and of numerous presents made to the present King, such as the swords offered by the Ko- man patriots ; one sword a celebrated work by Castellani of Rome. In the centre of the room is the favourite horse ofKiug Carlo Alberto, wliich accom- panied him in his different campaigns, and durmg his last residence at Oporto. Here also are some marble busts of celebrated Piedmontese military cele- brities, sundry warlike engines, appa- ratus, &c. The second room or armoury, pro- perly speaking, is a long gallery parallel to the Piazza, opening at one extremity into the Royal apartments, the objects arranged on either side; few have names attached to them, and most of the numbers have disappeared, so that the assistance of the custode is abso- lutely necessary. The following are amongst the chief objects : — 20, 33. Two suits which belonged to Antonio di Martinengo in the 15th century, both ornamented with da- masquine and other engravings of ex- cellent design : the latter (33) is the finest in the collection. 35. The fvdl suit of the Duke Ema- nuele Fihberto, or Tete de Fer, and worn by him on the great day of the battle of St. Quentin. (See Piazza di San Carlo.) Emanuele himself was a very good armourer, not only in the coarse smith's Avork, but in the finer departments of inlaying with silver. Or damasqiiining, and it is said tliat the armour which he wore was his own manufacture. Pacific as he was in the later years of his life, he never went into public except in his panoply, and bearing his good sword under his arm. This armour is copied in Marochetti's fine statue in the Piazza S. Carlo. 37. A suit fit for a giant, respecting which there have been many conjectures. Nothing is known of its history or owner ; it bears a ducal coronet and the letter F. 67. The staff of command of Alfonso diFerrara (1515). 104. The like of the celebrated bur- gomaster Tiepolo. 239. A magnificent suit of damas- quined steel. 275. The cuirass of Prince Eugene, with tln^ee deep buUet indentations in front, worn by him at the battle of Turin, where, as before mentioned, the' French were totally defeated ; and (990) his sword and pistols worn on the same memorable occasion. 288. Cuirass worn by Carlo Ema- nuele III. at the battle of GruastaUa, 1734, afid that of the celebrated leader, Carmagnola, with fine reliefs. 292-294. Helmets in the style of the Renaissance. The last belonged to the celebrated surgeon and anatomist Scarpa of Pavia. It is covered with imagery, representing Jove thundering upon the Titans. 381-385, 394, 395. Shields and targets in the same style. 380 is ex- ceedingly rich, embossed with subjects representing the contests between Ma- rius and Jugurtha. Amongst the orna- ments is introduced a crescent,'supposed to be the device of Diana of Poitiers : Piedmont. Route \, — Tunn : Tlieatre ; Castle, 25 but more probably tlie armorial bear- ings of its owner. It is of the best period of modern art, and has been attributed to Benvenuto Cellini, the reputed father of all works of tliis de- scription. 394 is also very splendid, representing the labours of Hercules. 819-821. Tln-ee very deUcate tri- angidar-bladed stilettoes, which, it is said, were can-ied by Italian ladies for the piu'pose of ridding themselves of husbands or lovers. 943. Sword of Duke Emanuele Fili- berto, formerly preserved in the " Ca- mera de' Conti," and upon which the officers of state were sworn. Amongst the other objects worthy of notice in the armoiu-y may be mentioned an ancient Roman stand of an eagle, bearing the inscription S. O. T. and Leg: VIII., found in Savoy, and the two Imperial eagles of Kapoleon's Italian Gruard, presented by one of its commanders, General Lecchi. The sword worn by Kapoleon at Marengo ; several Nea- politan flags taken by the Piedmontese ; the sword of the leader of the Theban Legion, given to Duke Charles Emanuel by the Abbey of Agauno in 1571 ; the sword of Constantinus Palseologus XIV., the last Emperor of Constanti- nople ; and the rostrum of an ancient galley in bronze, in the form of a wild boar's head, found in the port of Grenoa, have been added to the collection. The collection of Oriental arms pre- sented by General Solaroli is extensive, as also those from S. America. Amongst the former is a sword of Tippoo Saib, given by him to Gen. de Boignc, a Savoyard officer, who had been much employed by the native princes of India. The series of fire-arms of different periods is also consider- able, and very many interesting as works of manufacture and art, amongst which may be particularised — 1534, the arquebuse which belonged to Emma- nuel Philibert; 1547, another, incrusted Avith ivory, with designs of mythological subjects ; and, 1548, a tliird, having ex- ceedingly beautiful subjects sculptured on ivory, representing Meleager and Atalanta. At the extremity of the aflnoury is a smaller apartment, generally closed } over the door is a bust of King Carlo Alberto, with his swords, and two Austrian standards, captm-ed, at Somma Campagna, during the cam- paign of 1849. This cabinet con- tains the private collection of me- dals formed by the late king : it is particularly rich in those of the house of Savoy, and of the Italian States in modern times ; over the cases of the medals are several bronzes found in the Island of Sardinia, sup- posed to be of Phoenician origin, and a series of Roman bronzes discovered in the ruins of the Roman station of Industria, amongst which the sta- tue of a youthful Cupid is very beau- tiful. Adjoining the palace, and, in fact, forming part of it, for there is a con- tinued series of internal communica- tions, are the following buildings and establishments : — The Reali Segretarie^ contained the offices of secretaries of state and the principal departments of government before its removal to Florence ; they are now occupied by the municipal offices. The ArcJiivi, in which is deposited a very rich collection of diplomas and charters ; a selection from these is in course of publication. Annexed to these archives is a very select library of early printed books and manuscripts. The Academia Militare forms also a part of the same pile. It encloses a large quadrangle, of Jiandsome and scenic effisct. The institution, which w^as re- organized in 1839, is said to be very gOmplete and efficient. Lastly, the Teatro Uegio. It was built from the designs of the Count Alfieri, and was the building which made his fortune. Alfieri, born at Rome, w^as educated as an advocate; but his exceeding love for architecture soon induced him to abandon the bar. He never mentioned the name of Mi- chael Angelo without taking ofi* his hat 26 Route ] . — Turin : GalterTj of Pictures. Sect. i. or beretta. Having been employed at Tortona, when Carlo Emanuele II. happened to pass through that town, the monarch was so pleased with liis work, that he took the young ad- vocate into his service, and at once intrusted the building of this theatre to him • and so satisfactory was the production, that Alfieri was forthwith appointed court architect, and became the object of every species of favour. He obtamed the reputation of the best arcliitect of his time. Behind the palace and public gar- dens is the Zoological Gardens, where several wild animals are preserved ; admission is obtained by orders, delivered at the Koyal Palace, near the theatre ; it is closed, however, during the residence of the King or members of the Royal Family. In the centre of the Piazza del Cas- " tello is the ancient castle, now con- verted into the Falazzo Madama. Of the old castle, founded by Ludovico d'Acaya in the early part of the 14th century, the principal vestiges are the two polygonal towers, which have been before mentioned. Two others exist, concealed by the modern buildings. When restored by AmedeusYIII.,1416, this castle was at the W. extremity of the city. The principal front was added to the old structure in 1720, after the de- signs of Juvara, and is an excellent spe- cimen of street architecture. The other three were to have been completed on the same plan. It was fitted up as a palace for Madama Jteale, motlier of King "Victor Amadeus II., in 1718 ; until lately it contained the Royal Gallery of Pictures. The in- terior contains some handsome apartments in the Louis XIV. style, hitherto appropriated to the offices and committee-rooms of the Itahan Senate, which held its assemblies in the large hall until the transfer of the government to Florence. In front of the P. Madama, and facing tlie wide Via di Dora Grrossa, the entrance from Mont Cenis, stands a statue of a Pied- montese soldier, a good work by Vela, the Lugano sculptor, erected by the Milanese emigrants to the Piedmontese army, in commemoration of its heroic deeds for the liberation of their country in 1849 ; and on the princijml land- ing-place a statue of King Carlo Al- berto by Cevalto, placed here by Vit- torio Emanuele and the Italian Parlia- ment. Upon the N.W. tower of the palace is the Royal Observatoiy, placed here in 1822. Palazzo della Meale Accademia delle Scienze, a large unfinished-looking building, in the street of the same name, derives its appellation from its be- ing the place of meeting of the principal Scientific and Literary Society of the Piedmontese provinces. Besides a good library belonging to that body, it con- tains the Pinacoteca, or Royal Gallery of Paintings ; the Museum of Antiquities ; and the Museum of Natural History. The entrance to them is by a handsome doorway opening out of the Piazza di Carignano. All are open to visitors daily from 9 to 3, except on certain festivals. The Finacoteca, or Boyal Gallery of Paintings, was formed by King Carlo Alberto with pictures scattered over the different royal residences, and by some important purchases from Genoa. Originally placed in the state apart- ments of the Palazzo Madama, it has been removed into a suite of 15 rooms, handsomely fitted up for the purpose, on the first floor. There is a very fair catalogue sold at the door. The Royal Gallery has been illus- trated in Marquis Robert Azeglio's work entitled * La Real Galleria di Torino,' who was its first director ; a post in which he was succeeded by his still more eminent brother, the late Massimo Azeglio, as an artist, writer, and statesman, one of the most brilliant ornaments of regenerated Italy. Piedmont. Route 1. — Turin: Gallery of Pictures » 27 Entering from the great stairs, and turning to the 1. on the 2nd floor, we reach a large hall, Room 1 of Plan, containing portraits of celebrated indi- viduals of the House of Savoy ; the most remarkable being 4 equestrian portraits of Prince Eugene of Savoy, by l^au- Sciqjpen ; 2(>, the children of Prince Tomaso, by Vandtjlce ; 27, of Emanuele Philibort, by Argenta{?) : of King Carlo Alberto on horseback, by Horace Vernet ; and of Cardinal Mau- rice, hy Philippe de Campagna ; and busts of Emanuel Philibert and his wife, Carlo Emanuele, and Cardinal Maurice, by Colllni, There are some Battle- pieces, in which the sovereigns of Piedmont sustained a part, by Vander Meiden, Hugthenhurg, Tempesta, &c. In the next two rooms (2 and 3) have been placed the chefs-d'oeuvre of the school of Piedmont, the most worthy of notice being 33, 34, 36, 37, 39, 40, by Macrlno d'Alha, chiefly sacred subjects ; 35, Giovanni Presby- tero, a rare old Piedmontese master, a curious Tryptich of Saints in 1 3 com- partments; 38, Borgognone, St. Am- brogio preaching ; 41, Gandolfino d'Alha^ a curious Tryptich painted in 1493 ; 43, Giavenone, the Virgin en- throned between SS. Abondius and S. Anthony of Padua, painted in tempera in 1514; 49, Gaudenzio Ferrari, St. Peter and Donatorio ; 52, St. Elizabeth and the Virgin ; 54, our Saviour taken down from the Cross ; 57, Joachim expelled from the Temple ; 50, Sodoma, Holy Family, and another of the same subject and 4 Saints ; 51, i?. Lanino, a Holy Family ; and 56, a Deposition ; 59, Ottaviano Cane of Trino (1564), a Virgin with Child and Saints. 3rd Room — 60, 61, Giuseppe Giovenone, 2 paintings of the Resurrection on panel ; 62, Grammorseo, the Virgin enthroned ; 64, 0. Cane, the marriage of St. Cathe- rine one of the good works of this rare Piedmontese painter. Room 4. — 65 and 69, Monealvo, Christ bearing the Cross, and St. Francis receiving the , Stigmata. Room 5. — Different Italian Schools of the 14th, 15th, and 16th centys — 93, 94, 96, Fra Angelico da FiesolCj the Virgin and Child, and Angels in adoration; 98, 99, Sandro Botticelli, Tobias and the Angel, with the Virgin, Infant Saviour, and St. John ; 100, a curious painting called the Destruction of Jerusalem, attributed to Spinello, son of Spinello Aretino ; 103, Lor. de Credi, the Virgin and Child : 108, B. Garofoh, Christ disputing with the Doctors ; 109, Pontormo, a Holy Family; 118, Savoldo, a good Holy Family; 121, Franciahigio, the Angel of the Annunciation ; 122, F. Penni, Christ carried to the Sepulchre; 131, Daniele of Volterra, the Decollation of c 2 28 Route 1. — Turin: Gallery of Pictures, Sect. I. St. John the Baptist. Room 6. — Boni- fazioy a Holy Family with Saints, a ^ood specimen of the master; 141, Semine, the Adoration of the Shep- herds; 145, Bassano, our Saviour crowned with Thorns ; 1 55, K Baroccio, the Last Supper; 157, Paulo Veronese, Queen Saba before Solomon. Roo3i 7. — Jacopo Tintoretto, the Trinity ; 163, Guido, St. John in the Desert; 167, Bassano, the Blacksmith's Shop; 183, 185, Guido, our Saviour in the Garden and St. Elizabeth of Hungary ; 189, Cristoforo Allorl, Jacob's dream. Room 8, entirely occupied by Paint- ings on Porcelain, chiefly from the old masters of the Italian schools, executed by a Swiss artist — Comtantin, purchased by King Carlo Alberto for 2.5,000 frs. Room 9.— a collection of Paintings chiefly of flowers and fruit, by Bonzi, Cerqiiozzl, the Breughels, Fyt, Heeim, &c. ; from here, a passage con- taining busts of members of the Royal House of Savoy, leads into Room 10, containing some first-rate works — 234, Paolo Veronese, the Magdalen washing the Saviour's feet in the house of the Pharisee, a chef-d'ceuvre from the Palace at Genoa; 235, Guido, Apollo flaying Marsyas ; 239, 240, 242, Guer- cino, Sta. Francesca Romana, the Al- mighty, and an Ecce Homo ; 249, Aurelio Lome, the Adoration of the Shepherds ; 254, Domenichino, Group of Children, symbolizing Architecture, Astronomy, and Agriculture. Room 11. — Hall of the Alhanis ; 256, Guercino, St. Paul the Hermit ; 257, 258, Sasso- ferrato, 2 Madonnas; 260, 264, 271, 274, Albani, 4 celebrated paintings symbolical of Fire, Air, the Earth, and Water, executed for Cardinal Maurice of Savoy, they are circu- lar. Albani has explained the mean- ing of his allegories with much clear- ness and originahty. Yenus repre- sents fire. The Cardinal had directed the painter to give him " una copiosa quantita di amoretti ^^ and Albani served him to his heart's content. The amoretti in this and the other com- panion pictiu'es are exquisitely playful. Juno is the representative of Air; and her nymphs are, with much odd ingenuity, converted into the atmos- pheric changes. Dew, rain, lightning, and thimder form one group. Water is figured by the triumph of Galatea : at the bottom of the picture are nymphs and Cupid fishing for pearls and coral. Earth is personified by Cybele, whose car is surrounded by three seasons, winter being excluded. Here the Cardinal's Cupids are occu- pied in various agricultural labours. 263, Albani, the Fable of the Nymph Salmacis and the Hermaphrodite ; 276, Carlo Dolce, Head of the Virgin ; 277, Carlo Maratta, the Angel of the An- nunciation ; 283, 288, Canaletto, 2 views of Turin ; 289, 294, Panini, views of St. Peter's and St. Paul's at Rome ; 299, 300, Angelica Kauffman, Sybils. Roo3i 12, Dutch, Flemish, and German Schools— 306, Cornelius ofLeyden. the master of Lucas Cranach ; 338, Vandijlce, the Children of Charles I. of England, one of the painter's finest works ; 349, and several portraits of the Royal House of Savoy ; 340, Rubens, the Apotheosis of Henri IV. ; 350, Teniers the Elder, a village scene. Room 13, of the chefs-d'oeuvres — 356, 357, Lor de Credi, of Madonnas and Child; 358, Hemling, the History of our Lord's Passion, a view of Jerusalem in the background, a very interesting painting; 363, Vandyke, Equestrian Portrait of Prince Tomaso of Savoy, a fine painting; 369, Sandra Botti- celli, a female on a Chariot drawn by Lions; 371, Gaudenzio Ferrari, Our Saviour expiring on the Cross ; 373, Raphael, La Madonna della Tenda, on panel ; this interesting small picture, whether it be really by Raphael or not ; for there are at least three repetitions, all claiming to be originals : one is at Munich, another is or was in Spain, and this is the tliird. Its history is said to be as follows : — a certain Cardinal delle Lanze gave it as a present to a Countess Porpo- rate : upon her death it came to a Countess of Broglio, who sold it for 800 francs. It then passed, no one tnows exactly how, to Professor Bou- Piedmont. Route 1. — lurhi : Egyptian Museum, 29 clieron, who kindly " relinquished it," as the phrase goes, to the late king, when Prince of Carignano, for 75,000 francs (3000/.). Passavant says that compe- tent judges consider it to be a good copy by Pierino del Vaga; 37 i, aS'^^^- dro BotticelUf the Virgin and Child ; 375, DonateUo, a bas-relief of the Ma- donna and Infant Christ ; 377, Paid Potter, a fine rural scene with Cattle ; 376, Sodoma, Lucretia ; 378, John Breughel, Landscape full of Animals ; 391, Gerard Doiv, a young Dutch girl at a window, painted in 1662; 392, Velasquez, portrait of Philip IV. of Spain ; 394, Gaspar Netcher, the Knife Grinder; 397, Lo Spagna, St. Paul the Hermit. Room 14., Miscellaneous, Dutch, German, and Flemish Paintings — 401, Rubens, Moses and the Brazen Serpent ; 410, Floris, the Adoration of the Magi; 415, Daniel Mytens, the portrait of Charles I. of England in 1627, the architectural portion by Henry von Steinicich ; 416, Buhens, the resurrection of Lazarus; 421, Suhter- mans, portrait of Vittoria della Rovere ; 426, Wouvermans, a good battle scene ; 428, Tenters the Younger, Dutch Boors playing at Cards; 431, Rid>ens, Su- sanna in the Bath ; 480, Bemhrandt, a good portrait of a Rabbin; 468, Hou- hraken, Diogenes. Room 15, French School — 478, Claude de Lorraine, the Setting Sun; 4S8, Boucher, portrait of Louis XV. and family ; 494, Mignard, Equestrian portrait of Louis XIV ; 501, id., of the Grand Dauphin his son, and several views of the scenery of Turin, by C. Vanloo, &c. The Museum of Antiquities^ upon the ground floor, has acquired much importance of late years by the addi- tion of the Museo Fgizzlo, composed in great part of the collections formed by Cavaliere Drovetti, a Piedmontese by birth, whilst he was Consul- Gene- ral of France in Egypt, and which was purchased by King CarloEelice in 1820. The antiquities are arranged in two suites of apartments : one on the ground floor, where the more massive objects, statues, sphinxes, sarcophagi, and inscriptions, are placed; the other on the upper floor of the palace, cor- taining the smaller Egyptian objects, Roman bronzes, &c. The division on the grovmd floor consists of 3 large halls : 2 of which are exclusively occupied by the Egyp- tian monuments, the greater part froni Drovctti's collection ; they are well arranged, and an excellent catalogue of them by the keeper, Signor Occurti, may be purchased at the door, in which their description is preceded by a notice on the present state of our knowledge on hieroglyphical interpreta- tion, Egyptian chronology, &c. It may be useful to state that the greater part of Drovetti' s specimens, having been collected about Thebes, Luxor, &c., belong, like the more mas- sive objects in our British Museum, to the period of the 18th and 19th Dy- nasties, or from the 17th to the 13th centuries B.C. They are classed under the four heads of — A, Divinities and Religious Monuments ; B, Kings, Royal Monuments, Sphinxes, &c. ;"C, Civil Monimients ; D, varia. Sarcophagi, Steles or Votive Tablets, Bas-reliefs, &c. The following are the objects best worthy of the attention of the visitor, as he will pass them in review, adopting Signor Occurti' s classification : A 5, fragment of a marble statue of the goddess Neith; A 9, 10, 11, 12, four lion-headed female statues of Pasht, or Bubastes ; A 4, group of Ammon Rha and Horns ; A 2, sitting statue of Phtah, the Vulcan of the Greeks, of the time of the 18th Dynasty (1500 years B.C.) ; A 20, granite statue of Pasht ; B 2, sitting statue of Thothmes III., in black granite (16th century B.C.) ; B 3, crouching colossal statue in granite of Amenophis II., the contemporary of Moses (16th century B.C.) ; C 1, statue in basalt of Amenophis III., or Memnon (1430 years B.C.), the most powerful of Egypt's kings ; C 23, a group of two statues of the period of Amenophis I. ; D 1 and 3, a very beautiful sarcophagus with its cover in green basalt ; D 24, pe- destal of an altar in black granite (this is perhaps the most interesting III 30 Route 1. — Turin: Egyptian Museum. Sect. I. relic in the wliole collection, for its remote date: it bears the name of Meri of the 12th dynasty, who lived 3000 years B.C.) ; D 37, a hollow marble plinth with a Grreek inscription in honour of Ptolemy Epiphanes, 200 years B.C.) ; D 56, 57, two groups of the Greek period with inscriptions. On the floor of tliis hall have been let into the pavement several Mosaics of the [Roman period, discovered at Stam- pace in Sardinia, offering good repre- sentations of animals, such as lions, bears, and antelopes, with a male figure playing on a lyre, who formed the centre of the group, supposed to be Orpheus. A 1, statue of Phtha with a Nilometer ; A 3, group of three sit- ting statues in granite of Phamses TI. (Sesostris) between Ammon Pha and Mut (14th century B.C.) ; A 7, 13, female statues with a lion's head of the goddess Pasht (Bubastes) ; A 30, colos- sal head of a ram in sandstone ; B 4, group of Horus and his daughter Muthmet (15th century B.C.) ; B 5, 6, statues in granite of Phamses XL, Meia- moun, or Phamses the Great, or Sesos- tris, who reigned in the 14th century B.C. ; B 7, foot of a colossal statue of Menepthah, or Amenophis, son of Phamses the Great; B 8, colossal statue, in red sandstone, of Seti or Se Ptah, son of Menepthah ; B 16, 17, two co- lossal sphinxes in sandstone from be- fore the palace at Karnac, erected in the 17th century B.C.; D 4, lid of a sarcophagus in granite of Thothmes, son of Isis ; D 8, a cm^ious bilingual inscription on a slab of granite, in demotic and Greek characters, contain- ing a decree of the priests in honour of Callimachus during the reign of Cleo- patra, and of Ptolemy Csesarion, her son by Julius Ceesar (B.C. 44) ; D 22, a circvdar altar, dedicated to several divi- nities — probably of the 28th dynasty, in the 5th century B.C. In this room are several models of Egyptian ruins : D 40, of the temples of Ipsamboul; D 41, of Derry; D 43, of Essebuah ; D 45, 46, of Dakke; D 47, of Ghu-scieh; D 49, of Talmis— of Tafah, Debodeh, ]Balagua, &c. In the 3rd Hall, on the ground-floor, opens that of the Greeh and Roman statues, a poor collection compared to those of most other Italian capitals ; it has been removed here from the Univer- sity. The following arefmost worthy of notice : a Sleeping Cupid or Genius is perhaps the finest object in the col- lection ; it has been supposed to be Greek ; although there are persons who consider it a copy made in the 16th centy. of some ancient work ; a colossal Oracle Head of Juno, found at Alba in Piedmont, so arranged as to be fixed to a wall, and hollowed out, behind which the priest could remain con- cealed ; Busts of Yespasian entire, and of the Emperor Julian, the latter good, considering the period at wliich it was executed. At the extremity of this Hall of the Antiquities is the collec- tion of Ancient Roman Bronzes. — Here have been placed several Poman bronzes, formerly in the Numismatic collec- tion, and belonging to the Academy of Sciences. In the first are worthy of remark, a collection of silver vessels discovered in Savoy ; a Poman in- scription on bronze found at Indiistria ; a Minerva with a handsome brazier ou a tripod from the ruins at the same place ; a good statue of a Faun found in the bed of the river Staffora, near Tor- tona ; a few engraved paterae ; a good head of Claudius ; and several small Poman bronzes and utensils from In- dus tria. In this hall are some large specimens of ivory carvings by German artists of the 18th centy. : they repre- sent the Judgment of Solomon and the Sacrifice of Abraham, and are more re- markable for their size than for their sculpture; a few fragments of bas- reliefs, by Ramhaja, from the despoiled tomb of Gaston cle Foix. Finally, an indifferent collection of lEtruscan vases from the South of Italy, and a series of earthenware of the Poman period from the ruins near Pollenzo (the ancient Pollentia; see p. 73). The portion of the Museum of Anti^ Piedmont. Eoute 1. — Turin: Egyptian Museum, 31 quities on the second floor consists of a series of rooms, the three flrst of which are exchisively devoted to the smaller ohjects of the Egyptian collec- tion ; in tlie flrst, or Jong saloon, is a very interesting series of hiunan mum- mies, ^ith their chests or cases, some highly decorated, whilst on tlie walls are placed, in ft'ames, numerous papyri, and bebw several smaller Egyptian statues, votive tablets, &c. In the second large hall the most striking object is the celebrated Isi(w Table, a tablet in bronze covered with Egyptian figures and hieroglyphics, en- graved or amk, part of the outhnes being filled with silvering — forming a kind of IsieUo. Considerable uncertainty exists as to its history : it would appear to have been fTst discovered on the Aventine at Roue, near where a Temple of Isis once s ood, and given by Pius III. to a son of Cardinal Bembo ; having disap- peared during the pillage of Rome by the C«nnetable de Bourbon, little is knowr of what became of it until 1709, when i was discovered at Turin amongst some hmber ; it was carried off to Paris in 179', and restored to Italy at the peace. The Isiac Table is interesting as behg one of the first objects of Egj^ptim antiquity in recent times that lei to inquiry as regarded the interprtree plan- tations succeed to marshes and rice- fields, cross the Agogna torrent, and soon after reach 10 kil. Novara Jiinct. Stat. {Inns: Albergo de' tre Re ; a very tolerable inn ; Albergo d'ltaha, formerly the Pesce d'Oro, recently fitted up on an ex- tensive scale, and good), a flourishing city of 16,000 Inhab. Novara is situ- ated on a rising ground above the plain of the Terdoppio ; there are some good streets in it, well paved on the Lombard system. The town was formerly surrounded by fortifications, which had witnessed many an on- slaught ; but nearly all have now dis- appeared. There is no point from which Monte Rosa is seen to greater advantage than from here, especially from the N. extremity of the street lead- ing to the Rly. Stat. Around the town extends the plain, cultivated like a rich garden ; but the soil is marshy, and the neighbourhood rather unhealthy. The Duomo is an early Lombard building, somewhat damaged on the outside by neglect and weather, and more so within by recent repairs and adornments. The choir and transepts are masked by the stucco, the paint- ings, and the gildings introduced within the last 20 years. The high altar, though quite out of place, is a splen- did structure. It has some angels executed by Thorwaldsen. The nave remains nearly in its original state ; many ancient columns are inserted. In the chapel of St. Joseph are several fi'cscoes by Luini, of the Sibyls, portions of the history of the Virgin, partly scrip- tural and partly legendary. They are rather injured by damp ; but enough remains to show that they fuUy deserve the praises which have been bestowed upon tliem by tliose wlio saw them when they were more perfect. Of the six subjects on the walls, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Fliglit into Egypt, are the best preserved. In the sacristy are a Marriage of St. Catherine, by Gau- dcnzio Ferrari; an Adoration of the Magi, by Lanini ; and a Last Supper, by Cesare da Sesto, or Morosoni. The pavement of the Duomo is a relic of the original structm'c. It is of Mosaic, worked and laid in the Roman manner, probably by Byzan- tine artists of the 9th or 10th cen- tury : only two colours are employed, black and white. The compartments are divided by borders of frets and grotesques, such as are usually found in the tesselated pavements of Roman baths. The figures in the medalhons are all birds : — the pelican, an emblem of the love of the Saviour ; the phoe- nix, of the resurrection ; the stork, of filial piety. They are very remarkable as early specimens of Christian allegory. There was a square atrium, or fore- court, in front of the cathedral, in the walls of wliich were inserted many Roman and mediaeval inscriptions. This interesting court, as well as the fronts of the cathedral and baptistery, have been swept away to make room for a Corinthian portico, surrounded by columns of Baveno granite, a most re- grettable piece of Capitular Vandalism, recently perpetrated by a local archi- tect, at the instigation of the canons. It is difficult to imagine anything more out of keeping with what re- mains of the venerable mediseval edi- fice. It is proposed to case the body of the cathedral in the same style, so as to form an open portico on one side of the great market-place of the town. From the side opposite to the great door of the cathedral ojDens the curious circular Baptisterif, supported, as is the case with almost all the very early edifices of the kind, by ancient columns ; and hence the tradition, al- most invariably annexed to these build- ings, of their having been Pagan tem- ples. These columns of white marble are fluted and of the Corintliian order, and have originally belonged to an edi- fice of a good Roman period; in the centre of the floor is a circidar Roman urn, bearing an inscription to Umbrena Polla : it is nowused as a baptismal font. In the recesses between the columns 46 Route 2. — No'cara : Clmrclies, Sect. I. are representations of the events of the Passion. The figures, in plastic work, are as large as life, and pauited in gaudy colours ; and in some cases the resem- blance to life is completed by the addi- tion of real hair. They have been attri- buted to Gaudenzio Ferrari, but, if so, they do little honour to him as compo- sitions, although many of the figures are of fair workmanship. The two finest groups are the Grarden of Ohves and the Scourging of our Lord; one of the executioners is sitting dow^i, tu^ed with his work ; the Roman soldier looks on with pity ; the other can no longer look, and turns away. The Archives of the Duomo contain some curious specimens of the antiqui- ties of the Lower Empire and the middle ages, and some very old docu- ments. There are two fine ivory dip- tyclis : on the first the consul is repre- sented at full-length, under a species of cupola supported by columns, in the style of which we may see most evi- dently the transition which produced the Lombard or Norman style. This diptych contains a hst of the bishops from Gaudentius to tlie year 1170 ; the second bears the bust of a consul, and contains another list of the bishops from Gaudentius to William of Cre- mona, in 1343. There is also a life of St. Gaudentius, and other saints of No vara, written in 700, and a petition to Bishop Grazioso, in 730, for the consecration of an altar erected to St, Michael. The library of the semi- nary, which is open to the public 3 days a-week, contains about 12,000 vols. The Duomo of Novara is known in Italy as a distinguished school for church music; and the ofiice of Maestro di Capella has usually been given to emi- nent composers. In more recent times the place has been held by Generali and Mercadante. The Basilica of San Gaudenzlo, the patron saint of JSTovara and its first bishop, was entirely rebuilt by Pelle- grini in the 16th centy,, and is a noble structure ; the sepulchral chapel of the patronsamt is very magnificent : thehigh altar was erected in 1725, and betrays the bad taste of that time. This church contains one of the finest works of Gaudenzio Ferrari. It was origmally over the high altar ; but, upon the latter being re-constructed, it was placed in the 2nd chapel on 1. on entering the ch. It consists of six compartments, en- closed in a framework richly carved and gilt, also executed by the painter. The date of this work (1515) is exactly fixed by the contract between the artist and the chapter in the archives of the church. The principal compartments contain the Nativity above, with tiio Madonna and Child, and SS. Peter, Paul, the Baptist, and Nicholas, with attending angels, below. Much gild- ing is introduced into the garments of the figures ; and this adornment is the subject of a special clause in the con- tract. This was his largest work before he went to Home, and the last in his earlier style. In the 4th chapel on the rt. is a crucifix modelled by Ferrari. The church also contains — the Depo- sition from the Cross, by Moncalvo ; Morazzone, tlie Last Judgment ; and some recent frescoes by Sabatelli. The archives of San Gaudenzio are valuable. A consular diptych of great beauty, on which are sculptured two Roman con- suls giving the signal for the public games, and some early manuscripts, are worthy of notice. The bell- tower of S. Gaudenzio is fine, and so lofty as to form a very conspicuous object, being visible from a great distance. A huge and ugly oviform cupola has been re- cently erected over the intersection of the nave and transepts : it is sur- rounded on the outside by a double cir- cidar portico of Corinthian columns, and, exceeding in height the bell-tower, conceals the latter on the N. and W. sides. Ch. of San Pietro al 'Rosario^ for- merly annexed to a Dominican con- vent, now suppressed, was finished in 1618. It contains some good wall- paintings in oil by a Novarese artist of the last century : and the Virgin, St. Peter Martyr, and St. Catherine, in the chapel of the Rosary, by Giulio Cesar e Frocaccini. Here, in 1307, Piedmont. Route 2. — Novara : Battle, 47 sentence was passed on Frato Dolcino, who preached the tenets of INIanes, and a community of goods and women. Having retreated to the mountains above VerceUi, at the head of 5000 disciples, he was defeated on Maimdy Thursday, in a pitched battle, by the Novarose, and taken prisoner. He and his concubine, the beautiful Margaret, a nun whom he had abducted from her convent, were burnt alive (March 23, 1307). They both behaved with extraordinary firmness at their execu- tion, which was accompanied with cir- cumstances of most revolting cruelty. Dante introduces Mahomet requesting him to warn Dolcino of his approach- ing fiite : — " Or di' a fra Dolcin dunque, die s' armi, Tu, che forse vedrai il sole in breve, (S' egli non vuol qui tosto seguitarmi) Sidi vivanda, che stretta di neve Non rechi la vittoria al Novarese, Ch' altrimenti acquistar non saria leve." Inferno, xxviii. 55-60. " Thou who perhaps the sun wilt shortly see. Exhort Friar Dolcin, that with store of food (Unless he wish full soon to follow me) He arm himself; lest, straiten'd by the snow, A triumph to Novara be allow'd O'er him whom else he could not overthrow." There is a rather good theatre at Novara, which is open for operas and ballets during the carnival and the autumn. Much building is now in progress at Xovara, exhibiting the prosperous state of the country. The new Mercato, whicli also contains the offices of the Tribunal of Commerce, has been built from the designs of Professor Orelli of Milan. The Ospedale Maggiore, with its cortilc supported by 88 columns of granite, less oraamented than the Mercato^ is also a great ornament to the city. The ancient streets of low cloistered arches are disappearing fast before lofty arcades like those of Turin. A statue of Carlo Emanuele III., by Marchesi, and a monument to King Charles Albert, in the shape of a broken column, have been lately erected near the Palazzo delta GiusUzla. The extension of the Ely. to Kovara has added greatly to its prosperity and commercial activity. Placed as it now is witlun a few hours of Tm'in, Milan, and Genoa, it forms the point where all the communications to the Lago Maggiore, and, the most itn^ portant now, across the Alps, converge. There are two or three media3val towers still standing in the centre of the town. The Ely. Stat, is in the plain of the TerdoppiOj a few hundred yds. beyond the N.E. extremity of Novara. A monument to Count Cavour has been erected near it. It was to the S. of the town of Novara, almost in its suburbs, that took place on the 23rd of March, 1849, the sanguinary action between the Aus- trians and the Piedmontese, which ter- minated in the defeat of the latter, and the abdication of the brave and chivabous Carlo Alberto. That imfor- tunate sovereign, pressed by the demo- cratic party at Turin, denounced the armistice into which he had entered in August of the preceding year, after his unsuccessful campaign on the Aclige and the Mincio, and prepared to invade the Austrian territory by crossing the Ticino on the 21st March. On the same day the veteran Radetsky invaded the Piedmontese territory by cross- ing the same river at Pavia, with a well-equipped army of 60,000 men, in 4 divisions. Without losing a mo- ment his advanced guard was put into motion in the direction of the head- quarters of the Piedmontese army, then lying between Novara and Trecate. After a hard- fought action at Mor- tara, on the 21st, in which the Piedmontese were worsted, the Aus- trians advanced upon Novara, where both armies engaged on the 23rd, the Austrians under Radetsky, the Piedmontese commanded by the Po- lish General Chernowski, under the King in person. The site of the battle is a little S. of the town -in the plain separating the Agogna and Terdoppio streams. The heat of the action was between Olengo and the chapel of La Bicocca, about 2-3- m. S. of Novara, on the road to Mortara : the Piedmontese performed prodigies of valour, led on by Carlo Alberto and his 48 Uoute 2.—NavigUo Grande — Battle of Magenta. Sect. I. sons tile Dukes of Savoy (the present King of Italy, Y. Emanuel) and Grenoa. The conflict lasted during the whole day, and at its close the Pied- montese retired through the town, committing some acts of pillage and disorder. On the 26th of March an armistice was signed, in which Ra- detsky showed generosity as a vic- tor — the whole campaign, from the crossing of the Ticino at Pavia, having only lasted 5 days. Rlwys. from Kovara to Arona (see Kte. 6), and up the valley of the Agogna to Gozzano^ near the Lake of Orta, in 1^ hr., passing tln^ough jBor- gomayiero. Conveyances from Gozzano to Orta in an hour ; and from Orta to Duomo d'Ossola in correspondence with the diligences to Lausanne over the Simplon. Leaving Novara, the rly. crosses the plain to 9 kil. Trecate Stat., a large village. 2 m. farther is San Martino, situated on the highest point of the escarpment on the W. side of the valley of the Ticino. From San Martino less than a mile brings us to the Ticino, crossing, before reaching it, 2 canals, which, de- rived about 2 m. higher up, irrigate the districts of Yigevano and S. Martino. 5 kil. Ticino Stat., near the rt. bank of the river. The Ticino, until 1859 the boundary between the dominions of Sardinia and Austrian Lombardy, is here a fine river, with a wide gravelly bed which is fre- quently changing. The Ponte Nuovo, by which it is crossed, is of the granite of Montorfano, and has 11 arches all of the same size ; its length is 997 feet ; it cost 128,603^. It was begun by the French in 1810, afterwards stopped by political events, resmned in 1823, and completed in 1827 by the two so- vereigns whose territories it then joined. It is one of the finest works of the kind in Italy. The Austrians attempted, in their retreat from Piedmont, to blow up the eastern arches on the 2nd of May, 1859, but not sufficiently so as to prevent the French crossing it on the day following. 1 m. farther, by a very gradual ascent, brings us to the Canal or Naviglio Grande, which is here rapid and clear, and which »is crossed a few hundred yards to the 1. on the old post-road, by the JPonte di Mage7tta,wheYe Napoleon IH. remained during the greater part of the battle of the 4th of May. The Naviglio Grande, which derives its water from the Ticino at the village of Tornavento about 8 m. higher up, after first reaching Milan, connects the Ticino and the Po, and is remarkable as being the earliest artificial canal in Europe, with the exception (not quite certain) of that between Grhent and Bruges. It was begun in the 12th centy. The first portion ended at Abbia- tegrasso, and was intended principally for thepm-poses of irrigation. In 1259 it was continued to Milan by Napoleone della Torre, and also deepened and bet- ter adapted for navigation. It is still mainly useful for its original purpose. The country on either side is irrigated by the numerous watercourses which flow from it. The flood-gates are locked and opened when required, under particular regulations, so as to secure to the adjoining landowners their due share of the fertihsing waters. 1 m. on 1. of P. di Magenta is the village of Buffalora. 3 m. higher up the Ticino is Turbigo, opposite which Marshal M'Mahon crossed the river on the 3rd of June, the first entrance of the allied army into Lombardy in the memorable campaign of 1859. 7 kil. Magenta Stat., the town on the rt. It was founded by the Empe- ror Maximihan, and destroyed by Bar- barossa. It is in the midst of a most fertile district of mulberry-trees and corn. As Magenta and its environs were the scene of one of the greatest battles during the war that ended by the libe- ration of Italy from the rule of Austria, it will not be out of place here to say a few words on the military operations of which it was the culminating event. Our readers need scarcely be in- formed that after the entrance of the Austrians into Piedmont, in the spring Piedmont. Route 2. — Battle of Magenta, 49 of 1859, advancing as far as the Dora, and to within a few miles of Tiann, they continued to occupy the coimtry be- tween the Dora, Sesia, and Ticino, covering Lombardy from invasion on the W., whilst the Sardo-French army occupied the country S. of the Po, and especially the line extendhig from Alessandria to the frontier of the duchy of Piacenza,receivhig their supplies from Genoa, and supported by fortresses of A.lessanch'ia and Casale ; the Allies menacing thus the whole line of the Po from Valenza to La Stradella, where tlie Lombard frontier w^as strongly defended ; the Austrians crossing at times the river. It was in one of these expeditions, a kind of gigantic recon- naissance that was fought the brilUant action of Montebello, near Casteg- gio, so honourable to the Piedmontese army (p. 64). The Fi^ench Emperor towards the close of May, having become persuaded that an invasion of Lombardy from the S. would be attended with insu- perable obstacles, all at once changed his plan of operations, and by a rapid flank movement in a few days trans- ferred the greater part of the Allied army into the plains of the Sesia, thus turning almost unperceived and imsuspected the right wing of the Austrian army; in this rapid transfer, for it can scarcely be called a march, the railways from Alexandria offered the greatest facihties. On the 28th of May this flank movement commenced, crossing the Po at Casale, and on the 30th the great mass of the Allies was en- camped on the W. side of the Sesia, having their head-quarters at Vercelli ; the Austrians under G-iulay holding the opposite bank, and all the country between it and the Ticino. On the 30th the Piedmontese commenced their onward march, occupying Porgo Ver- celli, and attacked with success the Austrians at Confienza, Vinzaglio, and Palestro ; but the latter returning to occupy their former positions on the following day, the Piedmontese, aided by the French Zouaves, gained a very important victory at Palestro, the N, Itali/—1SG9. consequence of which was the retreat of the Austrians in the direction of Bereguardo and Pavia. The French army crossed the Sesia on the same day, and on the following occupied without opposition Novara. " On the 2nd of June General M'Mahon ad- vanced from Novara, crossed the Ticino with scarcely any opposition at Turhlgo, and est abh shed himself there and in the adjoining village of JRobecUetto, the Sardinian army fol- lowing on the 3rd. On the latter day the Emperor of the French, with the Imperial guard, moved from No- vara, by the post -road to Milan, through Trecate and S. Martino, at the W. extremity of the fine bridge of Buffalora or Ponte Nuovo. On the morning of the 4th of June took place the combined movements from Turbigo on theN., and from San Martino on the S., which ended after a long day's contest in the total defeat of the Austrians. — the battle which bears the name of Magenta, although it might equally bear that of Buffalora. The plan of Napoleon was, that General M'Mahon should advance from Turbigo by way of Buffalora, the Emperor at the head of the Imperial guard crossing tlie Ticino by the Ponte ISTuovo, parallel to the line of railway, both armies to form a junction at Magenta. This plan w^as punctually follow^ed ; M'Mahon engaging the Austrians at Buffalora, where they were strongly posted. About 2 o'clock M'Mahon was en- gaged at Buffalora ; on hearing the cannon from which, the Emperor ordered the bridge over the Ticino to be passed, beyond which the Imperial guard, under the orders of Marshal Paraguay d'HilHers, met with an obsti- nate resistance, and were more than once obliged to fall back, during which the brave General Clcr, commanding the attacking force, was killed. The contest here lasted several hours, with very doubtful issue, until M'Mahon, having driven back the right wing of the Austrians by his flank movement on Buffalora, advanced on Magenta. 50 Route 2. — Battle of Magenta. Sect. I. Al3out 6 o'clock the Austrians occu- pied the village, defending it most obstinately for 2 hours against the combined forces of M'Mahon, of Can- robert, and of the Imperial guard, which, after a most sanguinary conflict, had succeeded in making its way from the Ponte Nuovo ; each house being defended and stormed as a fortress, were more than 10,000 men were put hors de combat, and Greneral Espi- nasse, commanding the Imperial guard, and one of the bravest officers in the French army, was killed. It was not until 8^ P.M. that the firing ceased, by the arrival of the reserves of Niei's and Canrobert's divisions, the Austrians retreatmg on Kebecco with the intention of recommencing the contest on the morrow. During the long and arduous contest along the line, from the Ponte Nuovo to Magenta, Napoleon was constantly in the midst of the fight ; his principal station being at the top of one of the large buildings at the hamlet of Ponte di Magenta, close to the bridge which crosses the canal or Navigho about half-way be- tween the Ticino and Magenta. The losses in this sanguinary cojiflict were very great on both sides ; according to the French bulletins, tlieu's amounting to 3700 killed and 735 prisoners, and those of the Austrians to 13,000 killed dnd wounded and 7000 prisoners, out of 55,000 engaged on one side and 75,000 on the other. The result was that the Austrians, being demorahzed, and the coi'ps of their right wing so much cut up by M'Mahon' s flank movement, instead of attacking on the morrow, retreated in a southerly direction towards Abbiategrasso and the Adda, leaving the road to Milan open to the Emperor and his Royal aUy. The result of this memorable cam- paign is well told in the closing para- graph of the Imperial bulletin, dated from S. Martino the day after the bat- tle of Magenta. " In 5 days after its departure from Alexandria the Allied army have fought 3 actions, gained a great battle, cleared Piedmont of the Austrians, and opened the gates of Milan. Since the combat of Montebello the Austrian army has lost 25,000 men in killed and wounded, 10,000 prisoners, and 17 guns " — although there may be some exaggeration in the number of the ca- sualties. By military men Marshal Giulay's tactics have been much blamed, for allowing the Allies to cross the Ti- cino almost without firing a shot, and for giving battle on his own instead of on the enemy's ground ; but the fact appears to be that he was quite unprepared for Napoleon's sudden change from the bank of the Po to that of Ticino, and unable to bring up in time his reserves from the vicinity of Pavia and the Oltro Po Pavese to oppose the French attack in this new position. Griulay was soon relieved of his command, almost with disgrace, and M'Mahon, to whose able strategy this victory was in a great measure due, created almost on the battle-field Marshal of France and Duke of Magenta. Leaving Magenta, the rlwy. and post-road diverge. 4 m. Vettuone Stat,^ large village on 1., leavmg which we pass on the rt* where Desiderius, the King of the Lom- bards, had a villa. 6 m. Wio Stat., before reaching which the river Olona is crossed, and afterwards the Lura, near where they join. Rho is a considerable village in a productive district; it has a large church from the designs of Pellegrini. 5 m. Musocco Stat. Here the rly. crosses the carriage-road from Yarese, Saronno, and BoUate. 5 m. Milan Stat. The general sta- tion for all the lines of rly. diverging from Milan is outside the newly opened Porta Principe Umberto on the N. side of the city : here omnibuses from the difierent hotels and flys will be found waiting on the arrival of every train. Hotels. Hotel de la Ville, kept by Bam*; Hotel Hoi/al, by Bruschetti ; and Piedmont. Eoute 3. — Turin to Milan hy Casale 51 Hotel Cavoury nearest to the Rlwv. Stat. : all three excellent, Avith land- lords and servants who speak Enghsh. MiL.\N (see Rte. 21). VxOVTE 3. TURIN TO MILAN, BY CASALEj MOETARA, AND YIGEYANO* This road follows the rt. bank of the Po through a rich alluvial country, having on the rt. hand the hilly region of the Montferrat, and on the other the plain extending to the foot of the Alps. There are no post relays upon it. The Ely. to Yercelli, and the branch from the latter to Casale, cause this route to be now seldom followed by trayellers* 11 kil. Scttimo Stat. 12 kil. CJdvasso Stat. Verolengo, containing 5000 Inliab. Half-way before reaching here the old post-road to VercelU branches off on the 1. Near this place, but on the opposite side of the Po, is Monteu Po, occupying the site of the Roman station of Indus- trla, Tliis city, mentioned by Pliny and other ancient writers, had been in a manner lost. Many antiquaries sup- posed that Casale had risen upon its ruins ; but in 1744 the discovery of re- mains in this neighbourhood, and some fragments of inscriptions, led to further excavations. The result was, as has been before mentioned, the discovery of many of the finest objects in the Museum of Turin. The excavations have not been recently prosecuted with much vigour. 21 kil. Crescentino, beyond the junc- tion of the Dora Baltea with the Po, 4300 Inhab., in the midst of a marshy territoiy. Its plan indicates a Roman station ; and some remains discovered in the last centy. seem to confirm tliis supposition. The principal church, the Assunta^ is ancient, but has been re- cently decorated and altered. It con- tains some paintings by Moncalvo. Peyond the Po, opposite to Crescen- tino, but not in the road, rises Verrua, formerly strongly fortified, but now dismantled. Situated upon an abrupt and insulated hill, in a most defen- sible position : it opposed an obstinate resistance to the Emperor Erederick II. In more recent times (1704) the Due de Yendome attacked it without success. The defences were destroyed by the Erench during their first occu- pation of Piedmont. The road continues skirted by the Poj passing through a rich but un- healthy country, full of swamps, and constantly liable to inundations. The marshy meadows feed abundance of cattle, and hence the cultivation of rice is not so much resorted to here as far- ther on. 18 kil. Trinoy 7000 Inhab. This place was formerly much better peopled ; its decrease is attributed to the insalubrity of the country. Grreat herds of swine are reared in the marshes, and the hams of Trino are celebrated throughout Pied- mont. Trino was the bh'thplace of Ber- nardino Grioleto, a celebrated printer, who established himself at Venice in 1487, and who became the father of a long line of typographers . Trino origin- ally belonged to Vercelli ; and was the constant object of contention between it and its dangerous neighbom^s the marquises of Montferrat. When Carlo Emanuele E asserted his claims to the marquisate, he laid siege to and took it, assisted by his two sons Victor Amedeus and Erancesco Tomaso. This achieve- ment was commemorated by the fol- lowing jinghng epigram i — " Trina dies Trinuih trino sub principe cepit. Quid minim ? numquid Mars ibi trinns erat*'* The road follows the 1. bank of the Po, which it crosses b;f a suspension bridge before entering 20 kil. Casale, an important city, 21,000 Inhab., the capital of the ancient marquisate of Montferrat. Inlater times it was a position exceedingly contested ; and the citadel, founded in 1590 by Duke Vicenzo, was one of the strongest places in Italy. The castle or palace d2 52 Boute 3, — Casale : Cathedral; Sant'' Ilario. is yet standing : it was embellished by ' the Gronzagas. Many Roman remains have been found here; amongst others, coins of the earliest ages of the republic. The fortifications of Casale have been recently greatly increased and strength- ened, and, with Alessandria and Grenoa, it is now one of the great military strongholds of the kingdom of North- ern Italy ; it forms as it were the fron- tier barrier on the side of Lombardy. The Catliedral or Duomo is supposed to have been founded by Liutprand, King of the Lombards, in 742 ; and the archives of the chapter con- tain a singular muniment, a charter engraved upon a tablet of lead, sup- posed to confirm this opinion. The cathedral, by whomsoever founded, is of high antiquity as a Lombard build- ing ; but the repairs and decorations in 1706 effaced many of its original fea- tures. It contains some good paintings : the best is the Baptism of our Lord by Gaudenzio Ferrari, a portion of a larger picture which was destroyed by fire. The chapel of Saint Evasius has been recently decorated with much splen- dour ; the shrine is of silver. In the sacristy (though the French re- moved a large portion of its contents) are still some very curious specimens of art. A cross taken from the in- habitants of Alessandria, covered witli silver plates set with gems. Another of exceedingly rich workmanship in enamel, given by Cardinal Theodore Palseologus. A statue by Bernini, forming part of a group of the Spasimo, from the suppressed convent of Santa Chiara. The altar, with alto-riHevos, was formerly in the chapel of Sant' Evasio. Amongst the archives, besides Liutprand' s charter- tablet, are some valuable manuscripts of the 10th centy., and an ancient sacrificial vase in silver representing the Triumph of Bacchus, Recent restorations are said to have swept away much of interest in this church. The church of San Domenico is one of the last monuments of the Palseo- logi, having been begmi by them in 1469, and consecrated in 1513. The stags which form a part of their armorial bearings, and wliich orna- mented the fa9ade, have been re- moved ; but the memory of this fa- mily is preserved by the tomb erected by the king of Sardinia in 1835, and in which the remains of several of its princes have been deposited. The building is supposed to be after the designs of Bramantino, and from the elegance of its proportions and the richness of its ornaments, espe- cially of the fagade, it may rank among the finest of the sacred edifices in this country. It contains paint- ings by Pompeo Battoni and Mon- calvo. Here is the fine Mausoleum of Benvenuto di San Griorgio, who died in 1527. This individual wrote an excel- lent chronicle of Montferrat, of much importance also in the general history of Italy ; he was a knight of Malta, and he is represented upon his tomb in the habit of his order. Quaint allego- rical bas-reliefs adorn other portions of it ; it is Burmovmted by a canopy ; and the style of the whole is interest- ing, as being the parent of that which prevailed in England in the days of Elizabeth. Sant'' Uario enjoys the reputation of having been once a pagan temple. It is said to have been consecrated by St. Hilary in the 4th centy. It did contain many good paintings of early date : the best have been removed to Turin, but some curious specimens still remain. Many of the mediaeval civil edifices of Casale are remarkable. The old Torre del grand^ Orologio was built before the year 1000. It was altered in 1510 by WiUiam lY., Marquis of Montferrat, whose arms are cast upon the great bell. The Palazzo delta Citta was originally the property of the noble family of Blandrate. Having been confiscated in 1535, it was made over to the municipal body. It is attributed to Bramante ; and the por- tal and porticoes are not unworthy of his reputation. The paintings which Pjedmont. Jioute 4. — Turin to Asti, 53 it contained have been removed, but some frescoes yet ornament the roof and walls. Palazzo Delavalle con- tains some frescoes attributed to Giulio Itomano. In the Palazzo Callori is a portrait of Gronzaga, abbot of Sant' Andrea, at Mantua, by Titian. The central position of Casale has always given it importance as a mili- tary position, and this has been tmmed to good aceoimt by the Itahan govern- ment in adding greatly to its defences. Klwys. branch from it to Vercelli, Valenza, and Alessandria ; and a good road to Mortara and Yigevano by Fras- sinetto, near which it crosses the Sesia, passing through Ca»(/i«, where there are some frescoes in the ch. of Sta. Maria, by Lanini ; and Cozzo^ said to have been founded by king Cottius, across the rich country of the LomelUna, bordering on the Sesia and Agogna. Elwy. projected from Casale to Mor- tara across the plain of La Lomellina. 18 kil. Mortara, 4070 Inhab. ; the chief town of a district called the Lo- mellina. It is said to have derived its name from its unhealthiness — Mortis ara, the altar of death. According to another tradition, it derives its funereal appellation from the slaughter of the Lombards, who were here defeated by Charlemagne, a.d. 774. The whole district is intersected by rivers, water- courses, and canals ; and the rice-plan- tations add to the insalubrity of the marsh-lands around. The Rly. is open from Mortara to Vigevano, 12 kil., 14,000 Inhab. ; a place of considerable trade, but not otherwise I'cmarkable. The ancient castle of the Sforzas was altered in 1492 by Bramante ; and having been formed into a palace, it is now employed as a barrack. The cathedral is a good building ; it has recently been re- paired and decorated. Public convey- ances for Milan start on the arrival of each Rly. train, employing 3J to 4 hrs. A rly. is projected from Yigevano to Milan, by Abbiategrasso. Cross the Ticino 2 m. farther on and enter Lombardy, Ahhiategrasso (first Lombard sta- tion), a considerable borgo near the Naviglio Grande. It contains a large establishment in the nature of an in- firmary, a dependence of the great hos- pital of Milan. Gaggiano. Corsico. Much of the cheese ex- ported under the name of Parmesan, but known in the country by the name of formaggio di grana^ is made in this neighbourhood. Milan. (Route 21.) ROUTE 4. TUEIN TO ASTI, BY CHIEEI. This is a good road of about 40 m. Chieri is about 17 m. from Turin. La Madonna del Pilone. From this point the road ascends the Collina, S. of the Superga, to Pino^ on the highest part of the range, whence it descends for 4 m. to Chieri (the ancient Carrea Potentia), which contains about 12,000 Inhab. The ch. of Santa Maria delta Scala is one of the largest Grothic buildings in Piedmont. It was erected in 1405, Annexed to it is a very ancient bap- tistery, which, as usual, is said to have been a pagan temple. The Church of St. Dominico, built in 1260, has some good paintings by Moncalvo. A convent is attached to it. It once contained a singular inmate. In the month of October, 1664, tlie knights of Malta captured a Turkish galley, on board of which was one of the sultanas of Ibrahim, the then reigning Padishah, with her son, the young Osman. The boy was educated at Rome ; but it was judged expedient to send him to France, wlien, chancing to stop at Turin, he determined to be- come a Dominican friar, and he entered this convent, where he professed under the name of Padre Domenico Ottoman di San Tomaso. Some members of the 54 Route 5. — Turin to Genoa, Sect. I. Brogiia family, and amongst them Trancesco Brogiia, who served under Louis Xiy., ancestor of the family of .de Broghe in France, are bm'ied in this clim'ch. The de Broglies came originally from this neighbourhood. The cupola of the Cistercian monas- tery is considered one of the best works of Juvara. Chieri is one of the most ancient manufacturing towns in Eiu-ope. The manufactories of fustians and cotton Btuffs date from 1422, and upwards of 100,000 pieces were annually made to- wards the middle of the 15th century. The manufactories still exist, and also some silk- works. Riva di Chieri, to the Stat, of Val- decJiiesa, on the railway to Asti, or by the road to Villanova. Asti. (See Ete. 5.) ROUTE 5. TUEIN TO GENOA, BY ASTI, ALESSAN- DEIA, AND NOVI — BAIL. 167 kil., 104 m. KIL. KIL. From Turin to Alessandria . 91 Moncalieri . . 8 Frugarolo . .101 Trofarello . . 13 Novi .... 113 Cambiano . . 17 Serravalle . .121 Pessione . . . 22 Arquata . . .125 Villanova . . 30 Isola di Cantone 134 Villafranca . . 42 Ronco . . . 139 Baldichieri . . 47 Busalla . . .144 San Damiano . 50 Pontedecimo . 154 Asti . . . . 57 Bolzanetto . .158 Annone . . . 67 Rivarolo . .161 Cen-o . . . . 71 SanPierd'Arenal63 Felizzano . . 77 Genoa . . r . 167 Solero . . . 83 Trains start 4 times a day for Grenoa, performing the journey in from 4 J h. to 5 h. No allowance of free weight of luggage is made, so that every pound is charged for. The traveller may, however, take a good-sized parcel or bag with him in the carriage. The station in Tui'in is at the extre- mity of the Strada Nuova. The Ely. runs parallel to the old post-road in a great portion of its extent from Turin to Genoa. Leaving Turin, the line follows the 1. bank of the Po and crosses it before reaching 8 kil. MoncalieH Stat., situated on the declivity of the southern ex- tremity of the range of the Coljina. The palace, which crowns the hill above the town, was built by Yit- torio Amedeo I., on the site of a far older building, dating from the days of Jolanda : it is fine and commanding from ev ery point of view. This palace was the last prison of Vittorio Amedeo II. ; here he died after his removal from Eivoli. The gallery contains a long succession of family portraits, and also a curious series representing the hunting parties of Carlo Emanuele II. The influence of French costume is singularly marked in the fashions of the court : with re- spect to the countenances, the descend- ants of Humbert aux hlanclies mains, the founder (or nearly so) of the family, may be said to be generally a handsome race. The little town has some vestiges of antiquity in its collegiate church. The name of the place is said to be derived from Mo7it CailUer, the hill of quails, in the provincial language ; but these birds are not more common here than in other parts of the range. Ariosto has made Moncaheri the seat of one of the Paladins of Charlemagne, — slain, when sleeping, by Clorinda : — " Dopo essi Palidon da Moncalieri Che sicuro dormia fra due destrieri." The fau^ of Moncalieri is held on the 29th of October, and lasts for a week. It is one of the greatest cattle-markets of Piedmont ; but it is also a pleasure fair, and a favourite holiday-time with both the country folks and the citizens. The road onwards is varied by beauti- ful undulations : mulberry- trees abound in the fields. On the W. the noble mass of the Monte Viso towers above the rest of the alpine range. On the S.E. the distant Apennines, or rather the mountains which, connecting Alps Piedmont. Eoute 5. — Villanova — Asti, 55 and Apennines, may be said to belong to both, are seen blue and clear in the extreme distance. 5 kil. Trofarello Stat. Here the Ely. to SavigUano and Cimeo branches oflf on the rt. ; the road from liere to the next stat. runs along the base of the Collina, studded with villas and farm-houses. 4 kil. Canibiano Stat. The viUage of Cambiano, on a gentle rise, about ^ m. ou the 1. Here the hue separates from the post-road, running through the plain of Riya Chieri and Poirmo, and crossing several streams to 5 kil. Fessione Stat. ValdecJiiesa^ 2 miles from Villa- nova, and an equal distance from Riva di Chieri (Rte. 4). Yaldechiesa was founded in 1248 by the inhabitants of several townships wliicli had been de- stroyed by the citizens of Asti and other more powerful places. The road from Turin to Asti, by Chieri (Rte. 4), here crosses the railway. The view of the sno^vy Alps is very fine from this part of the route, extending from Monte Viso to Monte Rosa ; the declivities of the hills in the foreground are covered with villas and farms. Beyond the stat. the country becomes hilly to 8 kil. Villanova *S'^a^., situated on the highest part of the plain that separates the waters flowing towards thePo on the one side, and the Tanaro on the E. ; The country hitherto passed through is chiefly laid out in corn-fields, with few mulberry or vine plantations ; the view of Monte Viso is very fine from Dusino. The Rly. descends rapidly through deep cuttings to Villa Franca, tlie difference of level being 350 ft. The geologist will here find himself in the midst of the tertiary subapennine formation, abounding in marine shells ; several remains of large fossil mam- malia have been found here, near Bal- decliieri, in the Val d'Andona, &c. In this neighbourhood is produced much of the vdne commonly called vino d'Asti, the most drinkable of Piedmont. The vineyards are principally upon the un- didating hills ; and other crops are grown amongst the vines. 12 kil. Villafranca Stai. 5 kil. Baldichieri Stat. 3 kil. San Damiano, near the coi> fluence of the Triversa and Borbore torrents, in the same valley. Vines become more abundant here, on the declivities of the hills. 7 kU. Asti Stat. Asti (Albergo Reale; indifierent). Population 24,500. An ancient city of some celebrity (Hasta Pompeija), situated near the confluence of the Borbore and Tanaro, surrounded by fertile and picturesque hills. The original Dtcomo fell down in 1323, and the present ample Grothic edifice was begun shortly afterwards, and com- pleted about 1348. It is a fine and venerable building, filled with much painting, which unfortunately begins to suffer by decay. The choir was painted by Carloni, — a Nativity is said to be by Bassano ; but its autho- rity may be doubted. In a chapel to the 1. of the high altar is an ancient painting, G-erman or Flemish, repre- senting the Nativity. This picture was much admired by Gaudenzio Ferrari, who has made a careful copy of it. By Moncalvo is a Resurrection : the ter- ror of the soldiers is expressed with ability. Ch. of San Secondo. Also a fine G-othic building. It is a collegiate church ; and here also is a good ancient Flemish painting, representing the Pu- rification; and another, in the same style, in the church of Sta. Maria Nuova, Ch. of San JPietro in Concava, pro- bably an ancient baptistery ; it has, as usual, the perplexing appearance of classical antiquity. It is supposed, but without any reason, to have been a temple of Diana. Tlie Seminary is a fine building, by Count Alfierij the cousin of the poet. 56 Route 5. — Asti — Anone. Sect. 1. It is rich and picturesque in effect, and contains a good library. In the JPalazzo Aljieri, also built by the Count, is shown the room where Yittorio Alfieri was born, January iTtli, 1749 : his portrait, and the following autograph addressed to his sister, de- corate the apartment. •' Oggi ha sei lustri, appie del coUe ameno Che al Tanaro tardissimo sovrasta, Dove Pompeo pianto sua nobil asta, L' aure prime io bevea del di sereno. Nato e cresciuto a rio servaggio in seno, Pur dire osai ; servir, 1' alma mi guasta ; Loco, ove solo un contra tutti basta, Patria non m' e henche natio terreno. Altre leggi, altro cielo, infra altra gente Mi dian scarso, ma libero ricetto, Ov' io pensare e dir possa altamente, Esci dunque, o timore, esci dal petto Mio, che attristagli gia si lungamente ; Meco albergar non dei sotto umil tetto." Son. xxxvii. The churches of the Certosa and San Bartolommeo, outside the town, were ruined by the French. In both are some remains of good paintings : about half the other churches in and about Asti were destroyed. The Astigiano, or territory about Asti, contains several mineral and ther- mal springs. At Cast el Alfieri are two wells, which, until the earthquake of Lisbon, were of pure water. Afterwards they became sulphureted, and whoUy unfit for domestic pur- poses, and contmued so until 1807, when, a sharp earthquake having been felt at Pinerolo, but which did not extend to this province, the waters be- came sweet again. This part of the country abounds with fossil organic remains. They are most numerous in the Val d' Andona, and all the way from Dusino, about Rochetta and Castel Nuovo. There is a good road from Asti to Acqui, passing over a hilly region that will interest the geologist, through Costiglio, and Nizza di Monferrato ; Ely. in progress from Asti to Ca- sale. Leaving Asti, the railway follows the v^/Uey of the Tan^iro to , 10 kil. Anone (Stat.)yi. e. ad Nonam ; the ninth mile station from Asti on the banks of the Tanaro ; it is unhealthy, and the inhabitants are a good deal affected with the disease caUed Fella- gray common throughout Lombardy. Poor and unwholesome food, and particularly feeding on Indian corn, is supposed to be the principal cause of it. 4 kil. Cerro Stat. The village is on a gentle rising on the 1. ; here the Plain of the Tanaro opens, Felizzano being upon one of the last spurs of the Astesan hiUs. 6 kil. Felizzano (Stat.) ; burnt tln-ee times in the 17th century, besides sus- taining many previous destructions. The country around is frequently in- undated by the Tanaro. 6 kil. Solero Stat. In the plain of the Tanaro. 8 kil. Alessandria Junction Stat. (The Albergo Nuovo, late Albergo Reale, is the best hotel: a good cha- racter is also given to the Albergo d' Italia : the Albergo dell' Universo.) Alessandria is 58 m. from Turin. Its population is 19,000, and, with the suburbs, about 40,000. This city stands between the Tanaro and the Bormida, near their junction, and is the most remarkable monument of the great Lombard league. This alliance, so pow- erful, so memorable, and yet so ineffec- tual for the preservation of the national liberties, began in 1164 by the con- federacy of Verona, Yicenza, Padua, and Treviso, and included in 1167, besides these four cities, Ferrara, Brescia, Ber- gamo, Cremona, Lodi, Parma, Piacenza, Modena, Bologna, Novara, Vercelli, Como, Yenice, and, lastly, Milan ; — all bound by solemn oath and covenant to defend their mutual rights and privi- leges. The most powerful alHes and willing subjects of the Emperor Fre- derick were the citizens of Pavia and the Marquis of Montferrat ; and to keep these in check, the cities of the League determined to erect a new city, at once Piedmont. Eoute 5. — Alessandria, 57 a fortress for their defence and a me- morial of their liberties. On the confines of the marqnisate of Montferrat and the Pavezano, or coun- try of Pavia, was a small castle called Robereto ; this was chosen as the site of the new city. The ground was carefidly surveyed by engineers, for military architectiu'e had already be- come a study among the Italians, and the expanse of the country and the course of the streams, not deep, but frequently inundating the adjoin- ing plains, appeared excellently adapt- ed for defence against the German cavalry. The astrologer stood by w^ith his astrolabe, and the first stone was laid at the propitious moment. The blessing of the Pontifi* was asked and obtained ; and in a general congress of the League it was determined that the new city should be called Alessandria, in honour of Pope Alexander III., the protector of the Gruelfs, and the head of Catholic Christendom. The build- ing of the city was more pecuharly in- trusted to the Milanese, the Cremonese, and the Placentines : G-enoa sent large sums of money. So earnestly did they labour, that before the close of the year the city was completed. The Grhibel- lines scornfully called it *' Alessandria della Paglia," either in aUusion to the materials of the newly erected build- ings, earth mixed with chopped straw, or in prognostication of its being speedily destroyed like stubble or chafi"; but Alessandria rapidly rose to great power. The inhabitants of the sur- rounding villages and towns, Castel- lazzo, Marengo, Solerio, Bergoglio, Q.uargnento, ViUa del Foro, and Ovig- lio, removed into it. From Asti came 3000, including some of the most noble families. Milan furnished a large con- tingent ; and the siege laid to Ales- sandria by the incensed Emperor in 1174 ended in a disgraceful retreat from before the newly erected walls. Subsequently, when he made peace with the city, he stipulated that it should assume the name of Cesarea, but the Gruelfic appellation prevailed over the Gliibelline; and Alessandria continued to retain its original denomi- nation. Alessandria has been strongly for- tified by the sovereigns of the House of Savoy. The citadel, built in 1728, is now the most interesting and the most prominent feature of the city. The road winds round it, passing over a covered bridge, under which the Ta- naro seems to be lost. This fortress is larger than many towns, with a regular- Place in the centre, a parish church, and very extensive barracks and ar- mouries. The French added to the fortifications of the city ; and much more was projected by Napoleon, by whose orders extensive lines were be- gun, but the unfinished works left by him were afterwards destroyed. Mo- dern engineers have skilfully availed themselves of the advantages afibrded by the position chosen by those of the middle ages ; and, after Yerona, Ales- sandria is now the strongest fortified town in Italy; by means of the sluices of the Tanaro the whole surrounding country can be inundated, and ren- dered quite unapproachable by the enemy. The Duomo is richly decorated ; its principal work of art is a colossal statue of St. Joseph, by JParodi. The Church of the Madonna di Lo- reto, recently completed, says little for the talent of the architect. Palazzo Ghilino, built by Count Al- fieri, and amongst tlie best examples of his style. It now belongs to the king. On the whole, Alessandria offers less than the average interest of Italian cities, partly the residt of its modern foundation. Two great business fairs are held here annually, in Aprd. and in October. The goods are sold in a species of bazaar erected for the pm'pose. The traveller who consults his purse and his comfort must not attempt to stop at Alessandria during these fairs. The Rly. between Alessandria and Arona, by Valenza, Mortara, and No- vara, is now open tln-oughout the entire distance. By it the traveller is enabled d3 58 Route 5. — Novi — Busalla, Sect. I. to reach the shores of theLagoMaggiore in 5J lirs. from Grenoa — a great conve- nience for persons going into Switzer- land and down the Rhine to England. From Alessandria rlys. branch off to Acqui, 21 m., up the valley of the Bormida (Rte. 11) ; to Bra and Ca- vallermaggiore (61 m.), passing by Oviglio (the Roman Oviha), 13 kil. ; Nizza di Monferrato^ 30 kil. ; Alha^ 60 kil. ; Bra, 85 kil. ; Cavallermaggiore, ^8 kil. : and to Piacenza, by Tortona, Yoghera, and Stradella (Rte. 7). Before arriving at the Station of Alessandria the railway crosses the Tanaro, and, soon after leaving it, the Bormida : it then runs along the west- em side of the battle-field of Marengo (see Rte. 7), distant about two miles and parallel to the old post-road to 10 kil. Frugarolo Stat., near the vil- lage of Bosco, in the extensive plain of Marengo, richly cultivated in corn, mul- berry-trees, &c. 12 kil. Novi Stat. (Inns : rEuropa,very tolerable ; the Aquila Nera is also good and clean.) Novi will be the best sleep- ing place between Milan and G-enoa. It is a town of 10,800 Inhab., with a con- siderable trade, but offering nothing remarkable, except some picturesque old houses. The silk produced about Novi is amongst the most celebrated in Italy. The old post-road from Milan to G-enoa, by Pavia and Tortona, joins at Novi, and the Rly. from Tortona (12 m.), forming the most direct communication with Pavia, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, and Bologna. Beyond Novi we approach the Apen- nines, and the country becomes very beautiful. Fine hills in the distance, and beautiful groves of chesnut-trees, cheer and enliven the way. 8 kil. Serravalle Stat. Near the en- trance to the mountain valley of the Scrivia, which flows close to the village, and which is crossed by a bridge : the hills rise picturesquely on either side, and the geologist will here observe an interesting section of the tertiary marine strata dipping away from the central range. The Rly. follows the sinuosities of the valley, passing through a long tunnel after leaving Serravalle. A tunnel is traversed before — 4 kil. Arquata Stat. A fine riiined castle surmounts the hill, and the road continues increasing in beauty. 9 kil. Isola del Cantone Stat., near a small village of that name, on a promontory at the junction of the Scrivia and another stream. A fine bridge has been thrown over the former river at this point. 5 kil. ^onco Stat. A romantic vil- lage, from which, before the completion of the Rly., commenced the ascent of the Apennines by the post-road. 5 kil. Busalla Stat., on the Scrivia, the last station on the northern declivity of the Apennines, and the summit level of the entire line of Rly. between Turin and Genoa. The carriage-road, w^hich runs through the village, ascends to the Pass or Col di Giove, the culminating point from which the traveller will descry the Mediterranean, a considera- ble portion of the valley of the Polcevera, leading to Genoa, and the peaks behind that city crowned with their detached forts. The great Tunnel which traverses the central ridge of the Apennines com- mences at Busalla ; it is 3470 yards, or very little short of 2 English miles, in length ; the whole of this distance is not however excavated in the moun- tain; the first part being a great artificial tube or archway parallel to the Scri- via, it having, from the friable nature of the rock, been found impossible to form a cutting that would exclude the river, and prevent infiltrations from torrents descending from the hiUs above to empty themselves into the Scrivia : the rest of the tunnel (about 3000 yards) is excavated in the rock, a friable calcareous schistus ; the whole is waUed, and 14 shafts descend from the surface to convey air. A portion of the stream of the Scrivia has been diverted through the tunnel to supply Piedmont. Route 5a. — Turin to Alessandria. 59 Genoa with water. Notwithstanding the very steep incline, the jDassage through the tunnel, as well as that along the rest of the line leading to Genoa, is very safely effected by en- gines of a peculiar construction, made by Messrs. Stephenson of Newcastle. Emerging from the tmmel we enter the valley of the Polcevera, which the Rly. follows, to near the gates of Genoa. The works of the railroad in all this extent have been admirably constructed, the greater portion of the hne being on terraces of soHd masonry, or on gigan- tic embankments ; the following bemg the stations beyond Busalla : — 10 kil. Pontedecimo Stat. 4 kil. Bolzanetto Stat, 3 kil. Rivarolo Stat. 2 kil. San Pier d/ Arena Stat. 3 kil. Genoa. Once on the S. dechvity of the chain, the entire appearance of the country and the people changes : vines grow luxuriantly at Ponte Decimo near the S. opening of the tunnel, and are soon succeeded by olive-trees; and before reacliing Genoa, the traveller arriving from beyond the Alps will, for the first time, see oranges growing in the open air; the villages he passes through, have also quite a southern appearance, and the language spoken is different, being the Genoese dialect. As Ge- noa is approached, the villas of the Genoese aristocracy succeed ; the Ely. runs along the base of a ridge crowned by fortifications on the 1., and after passing through San Pier d' Arena it enters the tunnel of the Lanterna to emerge from it a few hundred yards before reaching the station in Genoa, situated near the Palazzo Doria and the Piazza di Aqiia Yerde. Genoa Terminus. (Rte. 13.) Hotels : Hotel Feder, one of the best in Italy, kept by Trombetta, the owner of the Feder at Turin ; Hotel d' Italic, kept by Tea ; H. Royal ; tlie Hotels de la ViUe, Croix de Malte : all good. Omnibuses are in attendance at the rly. station to take travellers to these different hotels. ROUTE 5a. TUEIN TO ALESSANDRIA, BY BRA, ABBA, AND NIZZA DI MONFERRATO — RAIL. 89 m. = 144 kil. Turin to Cavalier giore Bea . . S. Vittoria Musotto Alba. . Neive . Castagnole Castigliole S. Stefano Mag- :}^ 58 65 U 16 85 89 104 109 KIL. Canelli . . . .104 Calemaiidrana . 108 Nizza Monferrato 113 Ineisa Castelnuovo Bruno . . Oviglio Cantalupo Alessandria 117 120 121 124 130 136 144 This route, considerably longer than the preceding, will allow the ex- cursionist to visit a very interesting country and many interesting ancient sites, such as Alba and Pollentia. There are 2 trains daily the whole way, leaving Turin at 5'45 A.M. and 0'45 P.M. ; arriving at Alessandria at 11-20 A.M. and 8 p.m. ; one as far as Nizza only, at 6 P.M. in 4| hrs., and one at 9*15 A.M. to Alba in 2^ hrs. The first portion of this route, as far as Bra, is described in Boutes 8 and 9. Leaving Bra, it crosses the low tertiary marine ridge which separates the valley of the Grana from that of the Tanaro at Santa Yittoria, which it follows as far as Alba. For description of Bra, PoUcnza and Alba, see Route 8. The rly. continues to follow the Tanara for about 12 m. as far as 60 Route 6. — Alessandria to Mortara and Arona, Sect. I. Costagnole, near wliich will branch off on 1. the branch from Alba to Asti and Castile ; here turning to the 1. through a broken country for 10 m. we reach Nizza delta Paglia^ or di Montfer- rato, so called to distinguish it from Nice or Nizza di Mare^ the former having been originally composed of straw huts by the emigrants who had removed there. !Mizza is situated on a torrent of the same name which here joins the Belho, which it follows to 4 kil. Incisa Stat.^ and following the Belbo, now a good-sized stream as far as 13 kil. Oviglio Stat., 3 m. below which the latter river joins the Tanaro. 6 kil. Catahipo Stat., where our line joins that to Acqui, which it follows to 8 kil. Alessandna Stat, (Route 5). BOUTE 6. " ALESSANDRIA TO MORTARA, NOYARA. AND ARONA, ON THE LAGO MAG- GIORE — RAIL. 63 m. Ikil. Alessandria to Val Madonna . 9 Valenza . . 14 Torreberetti . 21 Sartirana ^. 27 Valle . . . 29 Olevano . . 37 MORTAKA . 41 J KIL. Borgo Lavezzaro 49 Vespolate 54 NOVARA . . . 66 Bellinzago . 79 Oleggio . . . 82 Varallo Pombia . 90 Borgo Ticino . 93 Arona . . . 102 Railway from Alessandria to Arona, 63 i m. (4 trains daily in 3i hrs.), fur- nishing the easiest mode of reaching Switzerland from the shores of the Mediterranean combined with the line from Grenoa to Alessandria. The first part of the Rly., as far as the Po, is through a hilly country, the E. angle of the group of tertiary hills of the Astigiano, between the Po and the Tanaro : a gradual ascent of 75 ft. brings us to 9 kil. Val Madonna Stat., nearly at the summit level, from which an equally gradual descent, after passing through a long tunnel, leads to 5 kil. Valenza Junction Stat., a short way on the 1. of the town, which con- tains a population of 4000. A Rly. branches off to Casale (14 m.) and* Vercelli (26 m.). Soon after leaving Valenza the Po is crossed by a fine bridge of 20 arches. 7 kil. Torreberetti Stat. [A Rly. (43 kil. = 26 J m.) from here to Pavia and (79 kil. = 47 m.) to Milan, per- forming the journey to tlie former in 1 hr. to 1 hr. 20 m., the stations being — • 4 kil. Castellaro, 8 kil. Mede. 12 kil. Lomello, 19 kU. Ferrera. 22 kil. Sannazzaro. 27 kil. Fieve Albignola. 30 kil. Zinasco. 36 kil. Cava Carhonara.'^ 6 kil. Sartirana Stat., near a con- siderable town in a rich agricultural district. 2 kil. Valle Stat. 3 m. on the 1. is the town of Candia, on the carriage- road from Casale to Mortara. After Valle the Rly. crosses nu- merous streams and canals, the country being liighly irrigated, and laid out in pasturage and rice-fields, to 8 kil. Olevano Stat., near the 1. bank of the Agogna, descending from Novara. 4 kil. Mortara (4070 Inhab.), the chief town of the Lomellina, the district between the rivers Ticino and Sesia ; its name is supposed by some to be derived from Mortis Ara, the altar of death, by others from the slaughter of the Lombards by Charlemagne, ^vhom he defeated here in a.d. 774 j the Piedmont. Boute 6. — S, Maria — Arona. 61 country around being unhealthy, from its Uixiiriant vegetation and irrigation. Santa Maria^ tlie principal church, has been a good specimen of Itahan Gothic, it is now much dilapidated. In tliis neighbourliood took place a severe action between the Piedmontese and the Austrians on the 21st of March, 1849, when the former, overpowered by numbers, were obliged to fall back on Novara. A Rly. is open from Mortara to TlgevanOf about 8 m. distant, and from which conveyances are ready on the arrival of each train to take pas- sengers to Milan in 3 J hrs. (a direct rly. from Vigevano to Milan is pro- jected). (See Rte. 3.) From Mortara the rly. follows the course of the Arho- roso stream nearly to Novara. 8 kil. Borgo Lavezzaro Stat. 3 m. on the rt. is the town of Gravellona^ in the plain of the Terdoppio. 5 kil. Vespolate Stat. From here the Rly. has a steeper incline than hi- therto, running parallel to the post- road passing from Garhagna to Olegno. It was about here, and over the fields reaching to the hamlet of la Bicocca, \ m. on the 1., that the battle raged most violently on the 23rd of March, 1849. (See p. 47.) 12 kil. :^ovara Stat. (See Ete. 2.) Between Novara and Arona the Rly. runs close to the post-road, and pa- rallel to the Ticino and the W. shore of the Lago Maggiore. Persons pro- ceeding to Milan, Arona, and Turin change can'iages here (see Rte. 2). 1 m. beyond Novara cross the Cavour Canal. 13 kil. Bellinzago Stat. 3 kil. Oleggio Stat., a large village about 3 m. W. of the Ticino. 8 kil. Varallo Pomlla Stat, A road from here strikes off on the rt. to Somma, crossing the Ticino by a ferry-boat. The rly. cuts through the low gravel hills which bomid the valley of the Ticino on the W. The view of the Mont Rose and of the Snowy chain of the Penine Alps, is magnificent from the rlwy» between Novara and here. 3 kil. Borgo Ticino Stat. The road rises all the way from Novara to this station, descending afterwards to near the shores of the lake, which it follows to 9 kil. Arona Stat. The Rly. Stat, is at the S. extremity of the town, close to the lake and to the quay where the steamers start from. Imi : Albergo d' Italia, near to the rly. stat. and landing-place from the steamers. The Diligences to Switzer- land over the Simplon start from here. Steamers leave Arona for all the stations on the upper part of the lake, on the arrival of the rly. trains from Milan, Genoa, Turin, &c., as they arrive from Magadino for the trains that start from Arona for the same cities. It would be difficult to state the hours of these departures and arrivals, as they vary according to the seasons. There are 3 departures and 3 arrivals daily, all of which call at the Borromean Islands, or at the neighbouring station of Stresa, as do those on the downward voyage from Magadino. These boats belong to the Government. Direct line of rly. from Arona to Milan, by Scelo Calende, near where it crosses the Ticino, Somma. Gallarate, &c. 62 Route 1,-^ Alessandria toPiacenza. Sect. I. EOUTE 7. ALESSANDRIA TO PIACENZA, BY TOR- TONA, yOGHEBA, AND CASTEGGIO. 97 kil., 60 m. KIL. KIL. Alessandria to Broni 60 LaSpinetta . . 8 Stradella .... 64 S. Giuliano . . 14 Arena Po . . . .68 Tortona . . . 22 Castel S. Giovanni . 75 Ponte Curone . 31 Sarmato . . . . 1q Voghera . . . 39 Rottofreno ... 84 Casteggio . . . 48 S. Nlcolo .... 88 San Glulietta . 53 Piacenza . . . .97 For the journey by Ely. between Turin and Alessandria, see Rte. 5. The railway to Piacenza, Parma, and Bo- logna — proceeds in a direct line, passing by Tortona, Casteggio, and La Stra- della, time occupied little more than 2 hrs. Soon after leaving Alessandria the Bormida is crossed, the hne to Grenoa branching ofi' on the rt. Tlie village of Marengo on the post- road is passed on the 1. soon after cross- ing the Bormida, and the road con- tinues through the plain of the battle- field. " On the evening of the 13th of June, 1800, the whole Austrian army mustered in front of Alessandria, hav- ing only the river Bormida between them and the plain of Marengo ; and early in the following morning they passed the stream at three several points, and advanced towards the French posi- tion in as many columns. " The Austrians were fiJl forty thousand strong ; while, in the absence of Dessaix and the reserve, Napoleon could at most oppose to them twenty tliousand, of whom only two thousand five hundred were cavah'y. He had, however, no hesitation about accepting the battle. His advance, under Grar- danne, occupied the small hamlet of Padre Bona, a Httle in front of Ma- rengo. At that village, w^hicli over- looks a narrow ravine, the channel of a rivulet, Napoleon stationed Victor with the main body of liis first line, the ex- treme right of it resting on Castel Ceriolo, another hamlet almost parallel with Marengo. Kellerman, with a bri- gade of cavalry, was posted immediately behind Victor for the protection of his flanks. A thousand yards in the rear of Victor was the second hne, under Lannes, protected in like fashion by the cavahy of Champeaux. At about an equal distance, again, behind Lannes, was the third line, consisting of the division of St. Cyr, and the consular guard under Napoleon in person. The Austrian heavy infantry, on reaching the open field, formed into two hnes, the first, under General Haddick, con- siderably in advance before the other, wliich Melas liimself commanded, with Greneral Zach for liis second. These moved steadily towards Marengo, whUe the light infantry and cavalry, under Greneral Elsnitz, made a detour round Castel Ceriolo, with the purpose of out- flanking the French right. " Such was the posture of the two armies when this great battle began. Grardanne was unable to withstand the shock, and, abandoning Padre Bona, fell back to strengthen Victor. A fu- rious cannonade along the whole front of that position ensued. The tirailleurs of either army posted themselves along the margin of the ravine, and fired in- cessantly at each other, their pieces al- most toucliing. Cannon and musketry spread devastation everywhere, for the armies were but a few toises apart. For more than two hours Victor withstood singly the vigorous assaults of a far superior force; Marengo had been taken and retaken several times ere Lannes received orders to reinforce him. The second hne at length ad- vanced ; but they found the first in re- treat, and the two corps took up a second line of defence considerably Piedmont. Route 7. — Battle of Marengo. 63 to the rear of Marengo. Here tlicy were again charged furiously, and again, after obstinate resistance, gave way. G-eneral EJsnitz, meantime, having effected his purpose, and fairly inarched round Castel Ceriolo, ap- peared on the right flank with his splendid cavalry, and began to pour his squadi'ons upon the retreating colmnns of Lannes. That gallant chief formed his troops en echelon^ and re- tired in admu'able order : but the re- treat was now general ; and, had Melas pursued the advantage with all his reserve, the battle was won. But that aged general (he was 84 years old) doubted not that he had won it already; and at this critical moment, being quite worn out with fatigue, withdrew to the rear, leaving Zach to continue what he considered as now a mere pursuit. " At the moment when the Austrian horse were about to rush on Lannes' retreating corps, the reserve under Des- saix aj)peared on the outskirts of the field. Dessaix himself, riding up to the First Consul, said, 'I think this a battle lost.' 'I think it is a battle won,' answered Napoleon. ' Do you push on, and I will speedily rally the line behind you.' And, in effect, the timely arrival of this reserve turned the fortune of the day. " Napoleon in person drew up the whole of his army in a third line of battle, and rode along the fi'ont, saying, * Soldiers, we have retired far enough — let us now advance — you know it is my custom to sleep on the field of battle.' The enthusiasm of the troops appeared to be revived, and Dessaix prepared to act on the offensive. He led a fresh column of 5000 grenadiers to meet and check the advance of Zach. The brave Dessaix fell dead at the first fire, shot through the head. ' Alas ! it is not permitted to me to weep,' said Napo- leon: and the fall of that beloved chief redoubled the fui-y of Ins followers. The first line of the Austrian infantry charged, however, with equal resolution. At that moment Kellerman's horse came on them in flank, and, being by that unexpected assault broken, tliey were, after a vain struggle, compelled to surrender. General Zach himself was here made prisoner. The Austrian columns behind, being flushed with victory, were advancing too carelessly, and proved unable to resist the general assault of the whole French line, which now pressed onwards under the imme- diate command of Napoleon. Post after post was carried. The noble cavalry of Elsnitz, perceiving the in- fantry broken and retn-ing, lost heart ; and, instead of forming to protect then* retreat, tiu-ned their horses' heads and galloped over the plain, trampling down everything in their way. When the routed army reached at length the Bormida, the confusion was indescrib- able. Hundreds were drowned — the river rolled red amidst the corpses of horses and men. Whole corps, being unable to efiect the passage, surrender- ed ; and, at ten at night, the Austrian commander with difficulty rallied the remnant of that magnificent array on the very ground which they had left the same morning in all the confidence of victory." The portion of the plain on which the battle was fought was purchased some years ago by M. Griovanni Delavo, who in 1847 erected there a Museum, and a monument to the memory of Napoleon. From the Bormida the rly. runs across the plain, here riclily cultivatedj for 12 m., ]3asBing by 8 kil. La Spinetta Stat,^ the nearest point of the line to Marengo. 6 kil. San Giuliano Stat, : cross the Scrivia before arriving at 8 kil. Tortona Junction Stat., the Dertonaoithe Romans, a town of 12,500 Inhab., situated at the base of one of the last spurs of the sub-Apennine hills, about i m. beyond the rt. bank of the Scrivia (Lin: St. Marsano) ; one of the most ancient cities of Northern Italy ; it was one of the towns of the Lombard league, and was levelled to the ground by Frederick Barbarossa. In recent times it was fortified by Vit- 64 Route 7. — Voghera — Casteggio, Sect. I. tore Amadeo II. ; but tlie French blew up the citadel in 1796, after its surren- der, in virtue of the stipulations of tlie treaty of Cherasco. The Duomo contains a remarkable ancient sarco- phagus, on which are inscriptions in Greek and Latin, to the memory of P. JElius Sabinus, and a curious mixture of Pagan and Christian emblems. The former are by far the most prom- inent. Castor, Pollux, and the fall of Phaeton stand out boldly ; whilst the lamb and the vine more obscurely indicate the faith of the mother who raised the tomb. This curious amal- gamation of Pagan mythology and of Christianity is explained by supposing that the family were afraid to manifest their behef. In the church of San Francesco is the rich chapel of the Garofali family. The other churches do not offer any- thing remarkable. 9 kil. Ponte Curone Stat., a vi" so named from the torrent which runs close to it. The rly. continues across the plain, having the hills on the rt., passing tln-ough 8 kil. Voghera Stat,, the Iria of the Romans. (The Moro, the principal Inn, is thoroughly Italian.) 11,450 Inhab. The country around Yoghera, which is situated in the plain at some distance from tlie sub-Apennine hills, is very fer- tile. The church of S. Lorenzo is an elegant building of the 17th centy. Near the altar is the tomb of a certain Count Taddeo de Vesme, whose body was found entire 200 years after his death, in 1458 — a fact commemorated in a strange inscription placed over his tomb, announcing that when it was opened, in 1646, his body was found entire, and, on separating one of the arms, blood flowed from it. This count, despoiled of his possessions by Ludo- vico Sforza, died in odour of sanctity. Here is preserved, in a ciu-ious reliqui- ary, a thorn of the crown of our Saviour, presented in 1436 to this ch. by Arch- bishop Picti'o de Giorgi, whose tomb is in the middle of the aisle. There is also another ostensou', weighing 25 lbs., made at Milan about the same period. This is one of the earliest Itahan towns in which printing was intro- duced; and the books produced here are of the greatest rarity. Voghera having been a station on the Via Emilia, several Homan antiquities have been found near it. There was a small collection of them at the Canon Man- fredi's : amongst others a large cameo of a female, supposed to be Eudoxia or Theodora. Leaving Voghera, the rail- way approaches gradually the hiUy re- gion, the foot of which it reaches, about a mile before reaching Casteggio, at Montebello. Branch rly. to Pavia (27 kil.) and Milan (63 kil.), forming the most direct line between the latter and Genoa. 9 kil. Castegfiio Stat. {Inn : Albergo *d'Italia); 2900 Inhab.; the ancient Clas- tidiimi, a town of importance in Cisal- pine Gaul, celebrated as the place where Claudius Marcellus gaiaed the spolia oplma, by defeating and slaying Virdo- marus King of the Ga^satse. It has been an important military position from the time of the GaUic and Punic wars down to the last great Em-opean conflict. It was besieged by Hannibal, and might have defied his power ; but 200 pieces of gold paid to Publius Darius, the com- mander, purchased the fortress ; and the provisions and stores found therein were of the greatest utility to the Car- thaginian army. Of the Carthaginian general there is yet a remarkable me- morial. About a quarter of a mile from the town is a spring of very pure and clear water, called, by immemorial tra- dition, " the Fontana d'Annibale," and girt by a wall which he is said to have built. It is close to the track of the Eo- man army, and about 100 yards from the modern road to Piacenza. It was near Casteggio that, on the 9th of June, 1800, the great battle between tlie French and the Austrians was fought, usually called the battle of Monte- bello, from the village on the hill, about 1 m. V^'. of it, where the French finally routed the corps de reserve of Piedmont. Route 7. — Broni — the Trehhia ; Battles, 6.^ the enemy. The Austrians defended themselves in Casteggio with the great- est valour ; and the liills near the town were constantly occupied and re-occu- pied by the contending parties; but the fortune of the day was decided by Victor, who broke the centre of the enemy; and when Napoleon came up to the assistance of the French van- guard, the victory had been already gained. It was nearly on the same site that the miited armies of the French and Piedmontese defeated the Austrians in May, 1859 : the first great success of the aUied armies during the last ItaHan w^ar. A few fragments of walls and towers are the only remaining vestiges of antiquity in tliis town ; but many curious Roman inscriptions, bronzes, and corns, have been found here. A good road of about 10 m. leads from Casteggio to Pavia, crossing the Po at Mezzana Corti and the Ticino at San Martino, Conveyances will be easily procured at the Ely Stat., and diligences in correspondence with the early trains from Turin, Grenoa, and Piacenza run between tlie two places, performing the joiu'ney in 2 hrs. ; a rly. is nearly com- pleted between Pavia and Casteggio. From Casteggio the railway follows the base of the hilly region, through corn- fields, the hills being covered with vines, passing by 6 kil. S, Giulietta Stat, 7 kil. Broni Stat., a town of 4500 In- hab., near the site of the Roman station of Carrullomagus. Its situation, a plain at the roots of the Apennines, is very beautiful. The collegiate church, founded by Azzo Marquis of Este and Ferrara, in the 13th centy., is a building of various ages and styles : some portions are of the 10th centy. It has recently been richly fitted up by the inhabitants: it boasts a silver shrine, containing the rehcs of San Contardo, the son of the founder. Very good wine is made in tliis neighbourhood. 4 Stradella Stat., at the extreme northern point of the hills, which here approach witliin 2 m. of the Po. A road leads from Stradella to Milan, by Corte Olona, crossing the Po (2^ m.) at the ferry of Portalbera. From La Stradella the Ely., follow- the base of the hills, approaches gra- dually tlie Po. 4 kil. Arena Po Stat. The village of this name is at some distance on the 1. Half-way between this Stat, and the next cross the Bardonezza tor- rent, formerly the boundary between Piedmont and the duchy of Piacenza. 7 kil. Castel S. Giovamii. Formerly the frontier-town of that Duchy, on the 1. bank of the Corona. 4 kil. Sarmato Stat. Here the line separates from the hills on the rt., and soon crosses the Tidone stream. 5 J kil. Mottofreno Stat. 3 kil. San Nicolo Stat., near the 1. bank of the Trebbia, on leaving which the river is crossed on the magnificent bridge erected in 1825 by the Empress Maria Louisa, under the direction of the engineer Coccanelli, at an expense of 47,200/. sterling. It consists of 23 arches, its length 500 yards, and .the width between the parapets 26 ft. A column at its extremity recalls the 3 great battles which took place in the neighbourhood. By an act of useless precaution, for the river was dry at the time, the Austrians blew up some of the arches on the eastern side, in their retreat from Piacenza, in May, 1859. The lower course of the Trebbia is celebrated in the military history of Italy, as having witnessed three great battles, each of which decided the fate of Italy for the time ; the first, between Hannibal and the Romans under the Consul Sempronius, B.C. 218, which opened Central and Southern Italy to the Carthaginian invader ; the second, in 1746, between the united armies of France and Spain on the one side, and the allied Austro-Piedmontese, which led to the momentary expulsion of the Bourbons from Parma and Piacenza; and the last, in June, 1799, when the French army, under Macdonald, after a prolonged struggle of 3 days, and a loss of 15,000 men, was obliged to retreat before tlie Russians and Impe- rialists commanded by Suwarrow. It 66 lioute 8. — Turin to Nice, Sect. L is difficult to fix, with any degree of precision, tlie site where Hannibal de- feated Sempronius, or where the force of Mago was placed in ambuscade, which so greatly contributed to that disaster. It is probable, however, that, Hannibal being encamped on the 1. bank, the Eomans attacked him nearly on the same spot where, by a similar manoeu- vre, Macdonald, 2000 years afterwards, made a last efibrt to defeat his Russian antagonist — about 5 m. to the S. of the modern bridge. The battle of 1746 took place nearly under the walls of Piacenza, the great feat of the day being Prince Lichtenstein's charge on Maillebois' columns near to San Laz- zaro. The battle-field on the last occa- sion (June 20, 1799), between the Frencli under Macdonald, and the Austro-Eussians commanded by Su- warrow, occupied the 1. bank of the river from Grignano upwards to Ri- valta, tlie first being about 3 m. on the rt. of the village of St. Nicolo, on the post-road, before arriving at Maria Louisa's bridge. Macdonald, being forced to retire from Tuscany, crossed the Apennines into the upper valley of the Trcbbia, hoping to be joined by Moreau, then in the Genoese territory. Suwarrow, however, managed, by his great activity, to prevent this junc- tion, and to place himself between the two Republican armies. Attacked by Macdonald during 3 days, he op- posed to him an energetic resistance, the whole ending by one of the most disastrous defeats that the Re- publican armies of France had yet experienced. Soon after crossing the bridge the spires of Piacenza come into view, and the rly., after running along the half- ruined walls of the city, and the elegant ch. of La Madonna della Campagna on the rt., reaches the Stat., situated at the E. extremity of the city, near to the Porta di S. Lazzaro. 9 kil. Piacenza Stat. (See Rte.40.) Hotels : La Croce Bianca, and San Marco. Omnibuses to the difierent hotels, ROUTE 8. TtTRIN TO NICE, BY CUNEO AND THE COL DI TENDA. 231 kil. =^ 143 m. KIL. I KIL. Turin (by rail) to Cuneo ..... 87 Trofarello . . . 13 (By diligence) Villa&tellone . . 20 t Robillante . . .101 Carmagnola. . . 29 Limone .... 116 Racconigi ... 38 Tenda 146 Cavalier Maggiore. 45 j Giandola . . . . 165 Savigliano ... 52 j Sospello . . . .186 P'ossiino .... 64 Scarena . . . .208 Maddalena . . . 71 ! Nice 231 Ccntallo .... 76 i By Railway as far as Cuneo. There are 4 trains a day: they perform the journey in about 3 h. The diligence for Nice starts on the arrival of the evening train, which leaves Turin at 5 p.m. in winter, and at 6| p.m. in smn- mer, reaching Nice about 7 p.m. on the day following. The malleposte leaves Cuneo at 11 p.m., arriving at Nice at 7 p.m. next day : fares from Cuneo 25 and 23 francs. Tlie railway follows the line from Turin to Genoa as far as 13 kU. Trofarello Stat. 7 kil. Villastellone Stat,, at the junc- tion of the Molinasso and Stellone tor- rents. A road of about 6 m. leads from this Stat., crossing the Po, to \^Carignano, a town of 7800 Inhab., not far from the river, and on the high carriage-road from Turin to Nice. The country around is beautiful, dotted with villages, towns, and hamlets. Much silk is produced in the vicinity. The principal ornaments of this little city are its churches ; and the Carig- nanesi are said to be distinguished for the care bestowed upon their places of worship. San Giovanni Batista, built by Count Alfieri. The principal facade is noble. The entrance of the building is lighted almost entirely from Piedmont. Route 8. — Carmagnola — Eacconigi, 67 above, by windows placed over the cornice. The bas-reliefs of the four doctors of the chm-ch, St. Cln^sostoni, St. Jerome, St. Ambrose, and St. Au- gustine, come out luider the glaring rays. Sta. Maria delle Grazie, an- nexed to a monastery of Franciscan friars. It was endowed by the Duchess BiancaPaloeologus, wife of Duke Charles I., and contams her monument. She was the daughter of WilHam TV. Mar- quis of Montferrat; as a widow, Bianca was distinguished for her gentilezza and beauty ; and Bayard, who had been brought up as a youth in the household of the duke, gained great honour in a toiuniament held before her in this place when she was becoming advanced in years. After many muta- tions Carignano was severed from the rest of Piedmont, or rather from the marquisate of Susa, and granted as an appanage, with the title of aprincipaHty, to Thomas, second son of Charles Emanuel I., from whom the present reigning family of Sardinia is de- scended.] 9 kil. Carmagnola Stat, contams up- wards of 13,000 Inhab. The principal chm'ch is that of Sanf Agostino. It is Gothic, though much altered. The Campanile, with its pointed spu^e, is the most unchanged portion. In the cloister annexed to the church are the remams of the tomb of James TurnbuU, a Scottish condottiere in the French ser- vice, who died here when the army was returning from Naples in 1496. The collegiate church of San Fietro e San Paolo is also G-otliic, but more altered than the other ; it was consecrated in the year 1514. Carmagnola stood on the extreme frontier of the marquisate of Saluzzo, and, as the border town, was defended by a very strong castle, of wliich only one massive tower remains, now forming the steeple of the church of San Filippo. The walls are upwards of 7 feet in thickness. It was built in 1435 ; and the city, when the marquis required an aid, gave him liis choice, 300,000 bricks or 300 ducats. Bricks now cost in Piedmont 35 fr. per thou- sand. The female peasantry in and about Carmagnola are gaily dressed, wearing round their necks rows of large metal beads, often of gold, wliich are manufactured in the town. The name of Carmagnola is associated with the horrible orgies of the French Ke- volution, though no one can explain exactly how. The inhabitants most sturdily disclaim the disgrace of being the inventors of the too celebrated " Danse de la Carmagnole," the pre- lude to so many fearful tragedies. Here was born, in 1390, the celebrated cojidottiere, Francesco Bussone,tlieson of a poor herdsman, who became so renowned under the name of Conte di Carmagnola, which he assumed from his birthplace. He began his career in the service of Filippo Maria Visconti, Duke of Milan, and, rapidly rising in power, he served his master most effec- tually, regaining a great part of Lom- bardy and of the dominions of Gio- vanni Galeazzo, which had escaped from his successor. Suspicions of his loy- alty were entertained by the duke ; Carmagnola was unthankfuUy banished, his property confiscated, his wife and children cast into prison, whilst he passed into the service of the republic of Venice, by which he was appointed generalissimo. He conquered Brescia for it from the Duke of Milan; and at the battle of Macalo, 1427, he en- tirely routed the ducal army. But the aristocracy of Venice, as suspicious as the despot of Milan, also distrusted the soldier bound by no tie of allegi- ance ; and having seduced him to Ve- nice by a vote of thanks and confi- dence, he was cast into prison, tortured, and beheaded on the 5th May, 1432, "between the two columns" in the Piazzetta of San Marco. 9 kil. Macconigi (Stat). Pleasantly situated, and in the days of Trissino was famed for the beauty of its women. " E quel di Scarnafesso e Racconigi, Ch' han bellissime donne." The palace of Kacconigi is one of the country residences of the royal family. It was given as an appanage by Charles Emmanuel I, to his son 68 Route 8. — Sdluzzo — Cuneo, Sect. L Thomas, tlie head of the branch of Ca- rignan of the house of Savoy, in whose possession it has since remained. It was the favourite sojourn of the late king, Charles Albert, bj whom it un- derwent great repairs, and is now one of the most comfortable mllegiaturas of the royal family. The small park which surrounds it is handsomely laid out. Following the rt. bank of the river Maira is 7 kil. Cavalier Mag giore Junct. Stat.^ a large and flourishing town of 5300 Inhab., formerly fortified ; but there is hardly a vestige of the two castles and the lofty walls which once surrounded it. [A Rly. of 59 m. branches off from here by Bra to Alessandria, passing by Alha and Nizza Monferrato (Rte. 5a). 7 kil. Savigllano Jiinet. Stat. {Inn : the Corona, tolerably comfortable), a cheerful town ; 14,500 Inhab, In the ch. are several paintings by Molinieri, a native artist of the 17th centy., a scholar of the Carracci; others are in the Palazzo Taffino, representing tlie battles of C. Emanuel I. The prin- cipal street terminates in a species of triumphal arch, erected in honour of the marriage between Victor Amadeo and Christina of France. A branch of 16 kil. strikes off from Savigliano to Saluzzo, passing by Lagnasco, in 25 min. Saluzzo Stat., or Sa- luces, is a town of 16,000 inhab., on a rising ground, near where the moun- tain valley of the Po enters the plain of Piedmont ; it contains 2 Inns, La Couronne and the Armes de Savoie. The Cathedral dates from 1480 ; it was formerly the seat of the Marquises, wlio played a part in the wars of the 15th centy. in Northern Italy. In one of its squares has been raised a statue of Silvio Pellico, who was born here. There is a char-road from Saluces to Paesano following the Po ; from there a footpath following the declivity of the Monte Viso to La Malla and Abries, from which a carriage road along the valley of the Gruil to Mont Dauphin in Dauphiny.] (See Handbook of Savoy, Ete. 163). 12 kil. Fossano — Stat. See Rte. 10. 7 kil. La Maddalena — Stat., in the middle of the plain between the Stm-a and the Grrana. 4 kil. Centallo, 4900 Inhab. ; in the midst of a fertile though not a healthy country : remains of walls and towers mark its importance in the middle ages. Roman inscriptions are found on site ; but, as is generally the case in tlie north of Italy, there is nothing above ground to prove its antiquity. 12 kil. Cuneo or Coni, 1500 ft. above the sea {Inn : the Barre de Fer, a dismal and dirty auberge ; there is an- other, the H. de Londres, said to be no better), a city of 20,560 Inhab., situated between the Stm^a and Grcsso torrents, at then' junction. Cuneo was, in its origin, a species of city of refuge. About the year 1100, Boniface Mar- quis of Savoy had conquered, or rather occupied, this district, which formed a part of the marquisate of Susa ; but his authority, hardly strong enough to enable him to retain his usurpation, was entirely inadequate to enforce the observance of the laws, or to ensure tranquillity ; and the lords of the ad- joining castles so plundered the inha- bitants of the surrounding country, that they determined upon resistance. Such outrages, a few centuries later, gave rise to the republics of Switzerland and the Grrisons ; but Piedmont was not yet ripe for a re- volution. The people came together under the colour of a pilgrimage to a sanctuary of the Yirgin, called Our Lady of the Wood, now included in the city ; and there determined to take vengeance, if, as usual, any of their wives and daughters were in- sulted by the petty tyrants of the surrounding castles. The anticipated cause of offence was soon given; the peasants assembled again, destroyed the castles, slew the oppressors, and, re- treating in a body to the present site of the city, a icedge-liTce piece of land between the two rivers, they began to build. The abbot of San Dalmazzo, to whom the woods belonged, gladly per- mitted a settlement which gave him Piedmont. Route 8. — Cuneo — Baths of Valdieri. 69 tlie prospect of suc-h a numerous vassal- age ; and the " /\ on the rt. bank of the 'Ellero^ 1810 feet above the sea, the seat of a bishop, 17,300 Inhab. A portion of tliis city is on a com- manding liill. Here are the cathedral of San Donato and the principal public buildings. The three other portions, Brea, Carazzone, and Piano, are partly on the side of the hill and partly in the ]3lain below. Mondovi is comparatively a modern city, having been founded in the 12th century. Like Coni, Fos- sano, and several other of the Apennine towns, Mondovi was a city of refuge ; that is to say, built by the inhabitants of the villages of the open country flying from the contentions of Guelphs and Grhibellines. Near Mondovi is the sanctuary of the Madonna di Vico. This church, built by Vitozzi, is one of the innumerable adaptations of the main idea of St. Peter's. In one of the chapels is the tomb of Charles Emanuel I., who died at Savigliano in 1630 ; it is by the brothers Cellini. This church has been a favourite place of pilgrimage of many Sovereigns of the house of Savoy ; it is richly decorated by royal and private munificence, and is said to have cost 9,000,000 francs (360,000Z.) ; it has only been recently finished. It is said that the people assembled here when they determined to abandon their houses and to found the new city. They governed themselves as an inde- pendent republic until, in 1396, they submitted to Amadeo, Prince of Achaia. Here, 22nd April, 1796, was fought the decisive battle between Napoleon and the Sardinian troops under Colli. The Sardinians occupied this strong position, while Beaulieu, with the Aus- trians and an army still formidable, was in tlie rear of the French, and might have resumed offensive opera- tions. The French therefore determined to renew the attack on the following day, but, on arriving at the advanced posts at daybreak they found them abandoned by the Piedmontese, who had retired in the night to Mondovi. Colli was overtaken, however, in his retreat, near Mondovi, by the inde- fatigable Yictor, Avho had seized a strong position, where he hoped to arrest the enemy. The Republicans immediately advanced to the assault, attacked and carried the Eedoubt of La Bicoque, the principal defence of the position, and gained a decisive victory. Colli lost 2000 men, eight cannon, and eleven standards. Great as the loss was, yet, coming in accumulation upon the preceding defeats, the moral effect was still greater. Colli retreated to Che- rasco, whither he was followed by Napoleon. The result has been already told. (See Rte. 9.) In 1799 the people of Mondovi rose against the French. This offence was cruelly punished by Moreau, whose troops committed acts of violence such as no provocation could excuse. A branch line is projected from the Direct Savona Rly. to Mondovi. From Mondovi the road ascends to the village of Vico, and descends to the bridge of San Michele, on the Cor- sagha torrent, where Colli repulsed Joubert and Serrmier on the 19th of April, but retreated on Mondovi in the night : continuing on its rt. bank to Lesegno, near where the Corsagha joins the Tanaro, to Ceva, and from thence along the 1. bank of the Tanaro as far Piedmont. Route 11. — Alessandria to Savona, 77 as Ponte dl Nava^ between which and La Fieve it crosses the Apennines ; the relays between Mondovi and OnegHa being Ceva. Sagnasco. Garessio. Onnea. La Pieve, and Oneglia. (Rte. 9.) ROUTE 11. ALESSANPEIA TO SAVONA, BY ACQUI, DEGO, AND MONTENOTTE. A rly. is open as far as Acqni (34 kil.), in 1 hr. 10 m. ; 3 trains daily: to be continued to Savona. There are public conveyances in the season of tlie Baths, but no relays of post-horses between Acqui and Savona. Tliis is a very interesting road to the mihtary traveller, as it is over ground rendered celebrated by Napoleon's first Itahan campaign of 1796 ; the greater part of it is up the valley of the Bor- mida to the passes of Montenotte and Cadibona. 8 kil. Cantaluipo Stat., in the plain ; here the route to Nizza di Monferrato, Alba and Brk branches ofi" (Rte. 5a). The road enters the liilly country at 3 kil. Borgoratto Stat., following the 1. bank of the Bormida to 3 kil. Gamalero Stat., a small village in a pleasant country, and thence to 2 kil. Sezze Stat., the village at some distance on the 1. beyond the Bormida. 6 kil. Casdne Stat., 4000 Inhab., situated upon a height overlooking the valley of the Bormida. This small town maintained many a sturdy conflict Avith its more powerful neighbour Ales- sandria. 6 kil. Strevi Stat. 6 kil. Acqui Stat, (the AqucB Statielce of the Romans) : 8200 Inhab. This city the seat of a bishop, was the ancient ca- pital of the Statielli, a Ligurian nation, and acquired much celebrity under the Romans from its hot springs. The whole country abounds with them ; and, like those at Aix-la-Chapelle, they are partly within the city and partly without. Within the walls is the spring called the "Bollente." The heat, on the average, is 167° Faln^enheit. The flow is most abundant,and never diminishes, and the water is used by the inhabit- ants for the purposes of wasliing, though, both to taste and smell, dis- agreeably impregnated with sulphm^- etted hydrogen. The bath-houses are outside of the city, on the opposite bank of the river, where several springs issue from the ground, their temperature A^arying from 111° to 124° Fahrenheit. They were built in the 16th century, by the Duke of Mantua, but have re- cently been much improved. The mud of the baths is considered as having most efficacy. Gout, paralysis, and rheu- matic affections, are the complaints in wliich they are peculiarly useful. Dr. Cantu, a celebrated Piedmontese phy- sician, has discovered iodine in the waters, to wliich he attributes much of their virtues, and also a trace of bromine. The waters of the Bormida are, or at least have been, supposed to possess the same efficacy as the hot springs. Roman remains are found at Acqui. The few which have escaped the de- struction of the city by the G-oths at- test its ancient magnificence. Four arches of a massive yet elegant aqueduct are the most conspicuous. Several reservoirs and other portions of the thermae may be traced. One spring retains, by tradition, the name of " the fountain of Pallas." The block or nucleus of a large sepulcln-al monument is called the Came by the common people, a name having a curious, though perhaps accidental, similarity to the Gaelic and Cymric cairn or Carnedd. Numerous sepulchral and other in- scriptions have been found near the branch of the Via Emilia which ran by the city, relating to the LoUian, Mettian, Rutihan, Petronian, Rubrian, Mennian, and Plautian famihes, as well as urns, 78 Route 1 1 , — Aoqui — Dego, Sect. I. lamps, brazen and other idols. Coins are also found, extending from Augustus to Theodosius. The Duomo was begun in the 12th century. The front has a fine and venerable porch ; and an ample flight of stone steps adds to its effect. The interior is divided into a nave vfiih. four aisles. The church of San Francesco, a Gothic building scarcely inferior to the Duomo, is in ruins, having been reduced to this state by the French. The other churches have notliing re- markable. The Monte Stregone, or Mountain of the Great Wizard, rises above the city. Here the hot springs have their sources. The air is exceedingly pure and plea- sant; the Baths of Acqui are much frequented, and would be more so if their efficacy was better known, and the accommodation for visitors improved. The wine produced in this neighbour- liood is very good. Acqui was the capital of the Upper Montferrat, and some of the towers erected by the Palseologi yet remain. It suffered much during the revolu- tionary wars. On leaving Acqui the road foUows the 1. bank of the Bormida, which it crosses at Terzo, on the site of a Roman station — ad Tertium — which represents very accurately its present distance from Acqui : from thence it follows the rt. bank of the river, leaving JBis- tagno^ a village of 2000 Inhab., on the rt. The two branches forming the Bor- mida unite beyond Bistagno — the Bor- mida di Spigno descending from the Altare or Cadibona Pass, and the Bor- mida di Millesimo, which rises at the foot of Monte Calvo. The road to Sa- vona follows the first of the two, nearly in a true south direction, for 9 m. to Sjpigno, a village of 3000 Inhab., 12 m. from Acqui, in a fertile territory, producing much silk and wine; and 10 m. further is Uego (Degus), a village of 2300 In- hab., which has Httle to interest the tra- veller, except its historical recollections. It is situated in a bend, and on the 1. bank of the Bormida: its territory pro- duces a good deal of wine and some silk. Dego, from its situation on one of the high roads into the plains of Lom- bardy and of Piedmont, has suffered severely on several occasions from mili- tary operations, but especially in Sept. 1794, when it was occupied by Mas- sena, and in 1796, when it was the scene of one of the sanguinary battles that opened to Napoleon the conquest of Italy. The French general, having succeeded by a most masterly move- ment in cutting through the centre of the allied army of the Piedmontese and Austrians at Montenotte on the 12th of April, lost no time in following up liis success by attacking each in turn. The Austrians, after their disaster at Montenotte, retreated along the Bor- mida, and occupied Dego, where their conquered division received reinforce- ments from the main body of the Im- perial army, then about Genoa. After beating the Piedmontese under CoUi at Millesimo, and forcing them to re- treat on Ceva and Mondovi, Napoleon, having under his orders Laharpe and Massena, attacked the Austrians at Dego. After a series of hard-fought actions during two days, the Imperial general was obhged to retreat upon Ac- qui, leaving 3000 prisoners and 13 can- non in the hands of the French. Two days afterwards, however, a most gallant attempt was made by General Wicka- sowich, at the head of 6000 Austrian grenadiers, to retrieve the past disaster of liis countrymen. Dego was re- taken with 600 French in it ; but Na- poleon, uniting his forces, pounced upon Wickasowich unexpectedly, and soon recovered it, making 1600 Imperiahsts prisoners. The results of the battle of Dego were — the impossibiUty of the Imperiahsts' forming a junction with, or reheving, their Piedmontese allies, already hard pressed by Napoleon at Ceva, and ultimately defeated at Mon- dovi (see Etc. 10), and their being obhged to retreat on Alessandria to cover Milan from an attack by Napo- leon. It was at the battle of Dego that PiED:^roNT. Roate 11. — Cairo, 79 Lannes, aftei-warcU celebrated as Due de Montcbello, was first distmgiiislied by G-eneral Bonaparte, who for liis gallant conduct made liini a colonel on the field of battle. Cairo (Cairum), 5 ni. S. of Bego, is supposed to have been a station on the Via Emiha, wliich fi*om Rimini led to Savona. It has a popidation of 3500 souls, and some ii-on-timiaces in the neighbourhood. It is the principal town in this upper vaUey of the Bor- mida. The old road to Savona by tlie Fass of Montenotte, now abandoned, struck oft' to the left from this point, passing by the battle-field of Monte- notte. A mide-path, frequented by the G-enoese fishermen, still exists over that celebrated pass. Since the new road has been opened, a hand- some stone bridge of 7 arches has been thrown over the Bormida at Cairo. This new road was commenced in 1800 by K'apoleon ; and, instead of crossmg a difficult col, as that of Monte- notte was, now penetrates into Mari- time Liguria by that between Altare and Cadibona, perhaps the lowest pass or depression in the whole cham of the Apennines, for the Apennines may be considered to commence hereabouts. As we have abeady mentioned, it was at Montenotte thatNapoleon,onthel2th of April, 1796, succeeded in piercing the centre of the aUied army by a mas- terly movement. Encamped at Savona, having the Austrian commander-in- chief in front, at Voltri, he had de- tached a corps of 1200 men, imder Colonel Rampon, to occupy the pass of Montenotte. The latter was vigorously attacked by a vastly superior force of the Imperiahsts under General Eocca- vina, wlio being severely wounded, the command devolved on Argenteau. Forced to shut himself up in the cHs- mantled redoubt of Monte Legino, the French commander defended himself with heroism until night closed in, ex- acting from his soldiers an oath tliat they would conquer or die. Napoleon, hear- ing of Rampon's critical position, imme- diately broke up from Savona, unob- served owing to the darkness of the night, with the greater part of his forces, and by daybreak the next morn- ing was able to reheve Rampon. The Austrians were completely beaten, los- ing 1000 killed, 2000 prisoners, and 5 pieces of cannon ; but, what was more serious stiQ, having their centre forced, and their main body obliged to retreat on Dego. Leaving Cairo, some remains of the Roman road are seen about a mile be- yond the town, and the ruins of a con- vent, said to have been founded by St. Francis Imnself, but burned down by the French in 1799. 4 m. farther is the viQage of Cm"- care^ where the valley widens. The road from Turin to Savona, by Ceva and Millesimo, here joins that from Alessandria. Carcare has a population of 1500, and in a military point of view occupies an important position ; for this reason it was selected by Napoleon, after the battle of Montenotte, as his head- quarters, from which he directed his operations against the Austrians in the valley of the Bormida, and the Piedmontese at Millesimo, and in that of the Tanaro. Beyond Carcare the road rises from the torrent over a ridge which separates the two branches of tlie upper Bormida, to reach Altare^ the last village on the northern dechvity of the Apennines, and only 7 Piedmontese m. as the crow flies fr'om the shores of the Mediter- ranean at Savona. The ascent to Cadi- bona is very easy, and the road gene- rally in good condition. The very great depression of this part of the Ligurian Apennines gave rise to the project of the French go- vernment in 1805, of establisliing a water communication by a canal be- tween the valley of the Po and the Mediterranean. Altare was in that project selected as the site of an im- mense reservoir to supply the canal in its descent, through the valley by which we have travelled, to Alessandria, from whence the Tanaro is navigable to the Po. The road attains its culminating 80 Rtes. 12, 12a. — Turin to Savona and Pinerolo, Sect. I. point near Cadihona, from wliich it descends to the hamlet of Montemore, at the head of the Yanestra torrent, which it follows to Savona. There are mines of a lignite coal in the environs of Cadibona belonging to the tertiary geological epoch. This coal contains bones of an extinct quadruped, the Anthracotherium, also found in the tertiary strata of the Paris basin, of Alsace, the Isle of Wight, &c. For Savona see Ete. 13. EOUTE 12. TUEII^- TO SAVONA, BY MILLESIMO. The first part of this road, as far as Dogliani, has been described under Rte. 9. From Dogliani the road follows that to Ceva,* as far as Montezzemolo, a mountain village 2500 ft. above the sea; from whence striking oif to the 1., after 6 m. of rapid ascents and descents, over the Alpine spur that separates the upper valleys of the Tanaro and Bor- mida, it reaches Millesimo, a poor village of less than 1000 Inhab., on the Upper Bormida, 1490 ft. above the sea, memorable for the battle between the French under Augereau, and the Piedmontese com- manded by General Provera, in which the latter were defeated and forced to retire on Ceva and Mondovi, whilst at the same moment Bona- parte was forcing the Austrians at Dego (p. 78) fi^om Millesimo. The road crosses a high ridge for 5 m. to reach Carcare, where it joins that from Ales- gandria to Savona (Rte. 11). A direct line of railway of 90 m. between Turin and Savona is now in progress ; it will branch off from that to Cuneo at Carmagnola (Rte. 8), pass by Bra, and from thence, by Cherasco, along the Upper Valley of the Tanaro, to within a few miles of Mondovi, to which it is proposed to carry a branch from the Mondovi Junction. It will run parallel to the range of the Apennines, leaving Ceva and Millesimo at a short distance on the rt., to the Pass of Altare (Ete. 11), and descend thence to Savona, passing near the coal-mines of Ca- dibona. A hne is also projected from Acqui to this line, passing by Cairo, connecting thus Alessandria, and thereby Milan, Bologna, Ancona, &c., with the shores of the Mediterranean ; the line from Acqui to run up the valley of the Bormida by I) ego, as far as Carcare, described in the preceding route. EOUTE 12a. TURIN TO PINEROLO AND VAUDOIS VALLEYS. Turin to SangoDG . . Nichalino . . Candiolo 13 KIL. Arrasca .... 24 Piscura 30 Rio 34 Pinerolo .... 38 Nova 20 I The Valleys of Fenestrelles, with the rte. to Brian9on in France, and of S. Martin, up the torrent of the Ger- manasca, and of the passes into the Valley of Clusone, the centre of the Vaudois country, are described in Rtes. 161, 162, of the * Handbook of Savoy,' being situated within the Alpine chains. ( 81 ) SECTION 11. ITALIAN DOMINIONS ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. — THE RIYIERA DI PONENTE, AND RIVIERA DI LEVANTE.— TERRITORIES OF NICE, MONACO, AND DUCHY OF GENOA. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. 1. Political Changes and Character of the Cov/ntry. — 2. Agriculture^ Towns, — 3. Roads. — 4<. Posting^ Modes of Travelling. — 5. Money, Weights^ Mea- sures. — 6. Character of the Population.^, Inns, — 8. Fine Arts, Routes. B0T7TE PAGE 13. Nice to Genoa, by the Riviera di Ponente, or Corniche . 86 14. Genoa to Sarzana, by the Riviera di Levante . . . 128 § 1. Political Changes.— Character of the Country. At the beginning of the present century the dominions of Sardinia on this coast consisted of the county of Nice (ceded to France by the Treaty of March 24, 1860), the principality of Oneglia, and some smaller enclavures ; the remainder belonged to the repubhc of Genoa. What were called tlie "imperial fiefs" in the interior were, as the name imports, small feudal sovereignties ; but they all belonged to Genoese nobles, and, though by law subject to the empire, stHl, pohtically speaking, they had no independent existence, and had become mere private domains. After the transitory dura- tion of the Ligurian repubhc (1797), the whole was incorporated with the French empire (1805). The congress of Yienna transferred it to the king of Sardinia ; and the House of Savoy thus not only regaiaed their old pos- sessions, but also obtained the territories for which they had more than once struggled. A nominal existence had been given to the " duchy of Genoa,'* and the title of duke was taken by the sovereign ; but the whole was pohtically united to the rest of the Sardinian, now Italian, states, though it is very distinct in its physical features and the national character of its populatim. Between the Var, fixed in the time of Augustus as the boundary of Italy on the W., and the Magra, the ancient boundary of Tuscany, the greater part of tliis territory is situated. We say " the greater part," for a small district be- yond the Magra, won by the Genoese from their ancient rivals of Lucca, and composing a part of the Tuscan Lunigiana, was retained by the Sardinian monarch as the successor of the repubhc. The country is a continued series of mountain ridges, valleys, and ravines, formed by the spurs of the Maritime Alps and the Apennines. The breadth of the district, which is now denominated *' Maritime Liguria," varies (always ■V. 3 82 § 2. Agriculture'^Towns, Sect. II. supposing the central ridge of the Maritime Alps and Apennines to form its N. limit) from 25 m. at Nice, to 5 m. between Arenzano and Voltri, where the latter chain (at Monte E.eisa) approaches nearest to the shores of the Mediter- ranean. The climate is most agreeable, the atmosphere remarkable for its trans- parency and purity. In several of the districts on the sea- side, which are protected from the N. and N.E. winds, the thermometer rarely falls below the freezing-pouit ; and hence the singular beauty of the vegetation, in which the botany of the temperate zone of the southern coasts of Em'ope, and of the northern coasts of Africa, is combined with that of the tropics. Where the ravines open into the mountains the sharp wind occasionally penetrates, and sometimes the winters are severe ; but the olive rarely suffers on this coast, and this affords a test of the mild- ness of the climate. These transient variations of temperatm'e, or perhaps some less perceptible cause, render pulmonary complaints common amongst the inha- bitants of the Riviera ; and the foreign invalid who resorts liither in search of health finds the natives mowed down by the disease from which he seeks to fly. The mountains abound in valuable marbles, furnishing many of those with wliich the palaces of Glenoa are adorned. The most remarkable of these are that of Polcevera di Grenova, a mixture of serpentine with. granular limestone, and the black marble of Porto Yenere, quarried at the cape of that name, in the Gulf of Spezia. The first of these marbles was formerly much employed in Italy, France, and England, for chimney-pieces, but its sombre appearance has put it out of fashion. Taken as a whole, nearly all the beauties which the traveller admires in the Alps of Switzerland, or on the shores of the bay of Naples, are here combined. § 2. AaEicuLTUEE — Towns. The coast of the Mediterranean from Sarzana to the frontier of France rises abruptly to the Maritime Alps and the Apennines. Facing the S., with gene- rally a warm aspect, the vine and the olive are extensively cultivated. Wlieat and maize are grown in rotative crops. Beans, some potatoes, and other vegetables are also produced, which, with roasted chesnuts and Indian corn meal made into pollenta, form the chief food of the lower classes in the mountain districts. Grenerally the rural inhabitants, as well as the labouring classes in the towns, are poor. The farms are small, held chiefly on leases of from three to seven years, and slovenly husbandry prevails. Along some parts of the sea- coast, and inland up the valleys and hills, the Metayer system predominates. The towns along the Mediterranean, from the Yar to Genoa, forming the Kiviera di Ponenta or CornicJie, with the exception of Nice (which strangers have enriched), appear strikingly picturesque and beautiful from the sea; but, on entering them, dirt and discomfort, windows without glass, a want of all that we consider convenient within doors, dilapidation and a general absence of completeness without and within, and a prevalence of what may serve as a slovenly expedient for the moment, are their ordinary characteristics. Improve- ment is, however, making advances. It commenced under the late king, and it is making rapid progress under the present constitutional sovereign. The chief ports are Spezia, Genoa, Savona, Porto Maurizio, Mentone, Yilla Franca, and Nice. § 3. EOADS. At the beginning of the present century there were only two roads practicable for carriages, and those but indifferent — the road from Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda, aad that from Alessandria to Genoa over the Pass of La Riviera. § 4. Posting^ Sfc, § 5. Money — Weights, 83 Bocchetta ; all the others were mountam paths, some of which could not be crossed, even on mides. The present great thoroughfare which connects France with Tuscany was planned and executed as far as Mentone by Napoleon I., but was completed by the Sardhiian Government, which also opened most of the other carriage-roads by wliich the traffic of the country is carried on, and to which its rapid improvement is to be in part ascribed. The road along the coast is intersected by numerous torrents descending from the Maritime Alps and Apennmes, tlie passage of some of which is occasionally not unattended with danger. Bridges have already been thrown over many of them, as at Yentimiglia, Oneglia, Pegli, and St. Pier d' Arena. From Grenoa to Sarzana the road is excellent : the bridge over the Magra has been a great improvement. The only Rlys. yet completed are the lines from Nice to Mentone, from Genoa to Savona, from Genoa to Chiavari and Sestri, and from Spezia to Pisa. § 4. PosTixa, Modes of Travelling-, &c. The post regulations are the same as in the other parts of the Italian kingdom. The relays are well served. From the nature of the roads, persons who wish to see the country will prefer the vetturini, which are good, though much more expensive than formerly ; or the diligences, which are excellent, all the way from Mce to Spezia. The journey, from point to point, may also be performed by water, by the steamers between Nice, Genoa, and Spezia ; those of the Peirano-Danovaro Company excellent. § 5. Money. The ItaHan currency is the same as the French. The following coins of the repubhc of Genoa are sometimes met with, though not common. Gold : — Quadruplo di Genova, 79 francs. Doppia di Genova, 39 francs 50 cents. Among the small dealers calculations are sometimes used in the old cur- rency of Genoa, the lira and soldo. Their value in the present currency is as follows : — A lira of Genoa contains 20 soldi, and is equal to 80 centimes of the Italian currency. A soldo = 4 centimes. An Itahan lire or franc is equal to 25 soldi of Genoa, Weights. The pound, gold and silver weight, is divided into 12 ounces ; the ounce into 21 denari ; the denaro into 24 grani. The pound = 4891^ grains Troy ~ 10 ounces 3 pennyweights 13^ grains. The ounce = 407-f^ grains Troy = IG „ 23| This weight, called peso sottile^ is used not only for gold and silver, but for all commodities of small bulk. Other goods are weighed with the peso grosso. 100 lbs. peso grosso = 76*875 lbs. avoirdupois. 100 lbs. peso sottile = 69*89 lbs. avoirdupois. 84 § 5. Measures, § 6, Character of the Population, Sect. II, Measures of Length, The palmo = 9*725 English inches. The canna is of three sorts ; the piccola, which tradesmen and manufacturers use, is 9 pahni, or 87*5 English inches. The canna grossa, which is used hj merchants, is 12 palmi, or 116*7 English inches. The canna used at the custom- house is 10 palmi, or 97*6 Enghsh inches. The braccio contains 2i palmi ; but in all the large towns, and through the country, the metre, kilogramme, and htre are in general use, and the only official weights and measure. § 6. Chaeacter of the Population. The Ligurian tribes were amongst the last of the inhabitants of Italy incor- porated in the Roman empire. We are not acquainted with the government and constitution of the people prior to that event ; it seems probable, however, that, being Celts, they constituted a confederacy of clans and tribes bound by their own laws and customs, but not acknowledging any common head or supe- rior. Having allied themselves to the Carthaginians, the Romans, after the second Punic war, assailed them with eighty years' hostihty, and they were for a time rendered obedient ; yet they were not finally subjugated until they were conquered by Augustus, who commemorated his triumph by the remarkable trophy of which the ruins are still existing at Turbia. By him — or, at least, during his reign — the Alps became the Hmits of Italy; and that fair country acquired the boundaries by which it was known and characterised by its great poet — ........ II bel paese Che Appenin' parte, e '1 mar' circonda e 1' Alpe. But this conquest did not break up the nationahty, nor indeed the govern- ment, of the Ligmian states. They continued to retain their identity, though under Roman supremacy ; and this corporate succession (as in the large cities of the south of France) was continued, in a great measure, until the great European revolution of the 19th centy. Thus Noli, Savona, Albenga, San' Remo, Porto Maurizio, and Yintimiglia, were rather the aUies than the subjects of Grenoa ; and even much smaller communities enjoyed a species of independence. The in- habitants of this coast possess a very decided national character, and present all the physical characteristics of a pure and unaltered race, excepting at Genoa, where there appears to have been a considerable mixture of Lombard blood ; and in the district between Nice and Mentone, where the Provencals have intermingled. From the earliest period the Ligurians have been a nation of sailors and mer- chants. Mago the Carthaginian reduced the city of Genoa B.C. 205. The ancestors of Doria and of Columbus were distinguished by their aptness for maritime enterprise. In the middle ages Genoa alone vied with Venice ; and at the present day she has recovered her ancient commercial prosperity, and far surpasses her rival of the Adriatic. The Genoese are said to be parsimonious : this reputation they had of old ; but in acts of charity, and indeed in every call which can be made on public spirit, their liberality has been unbounded, and still continues very eminent. The lower orders are remarkably hard-working and industrious. Riviera* § 7. Inns. § 8. Fine Arts, 85 § 7. Inns. The inns between Nice and Genoa, and between Genoa and Pisa, are, espe- cially along the Corniche road, good in almost all the places in which, according to the usual arrangement, a trayeller requires to stop. Iron bedsteads, for the manufacture of which Genoa is celebrated, are now in general use, greatly to the comfort of the traveller. § 8. Fine Arts. Little is known respecting the arts of Genoa in the middle ages. There are Roman remains at Cunies, near Nice ; others exist at Turbia and at Albenga ; but the ancient masters of the world have left few traces of their domination in Ligu- ria. The " Gothic" architecture of the country is of a peculiar character, and, in Genoa at least, exhibits more orientalism than perhaps in any other part of W. Eiu-ope. But, in the 16th century, architecture burst out in Genoa with peculiar splendour. The palaces of Genoa exliibit fine specimens of domestic arcliitecture. Galeazzo Alessi (1500-1572), by whom the best of them were designed, gave the impulse which continued till the last century, when the art dechned, giving way to extravagant decoration. Nowhere has painting been more closely allied to architecture than at Genoa. In the first era the earhest known Genoese artist is the individual who bears the somewhat romantic appellation of the " Monk of the Golden Islands " (1321- 1408). The golden islands are said to be the isles d'Hyeres, where he took the vows. This monk, who is thought to have belonged to the noble family of Cibo, was also a Troubadour of no mean powers ; and he gave what may be termed a new edition of the works of his predecessors, by making correct copies of them, which had been much corrupted by the ignorance of tran- scribers. As an artist he was chiefly distinguished as a miniature painter or illuminator. There appears also to have been a class of artists who flourished in this district, either Germans, or who followed German models ; to this class belong Giusto d' Allemagna, who painted at Genoa in 1451, and Ludovico Brea, who, flourisliing between the years 1483 and 1515, is perhaps to be considered as the father of the Genoese school, of which the principal of the more early masters were, RoberteUi (1499), Nicolo Corso (about 1503), Pietro Francesco Sacchi (1512-1526), and Lorenzo Moreno (about 1544). The second era was formed by Pierino del Yaga (died 1547) and his scholars, and may be considered as an ofiset from the Roman school. The calamities of Rome compelled Pierino to seek a refuge at Genoa at the time when those palaces were rising which have conferred such splendoiu* upon the Citta Superba. Patronised by the great Andrea Doria, he was employed upon the decoration of his palace ; and by him, and by the native Genoese who were either directly or indirectly liis pupils, were those frescoes produced. To this period belong Lazzaro Calvi (born 1502, and who attained the patriarchal age of 105 years) and Pantaleon Calvi his brother (died 1509), Antonio Semini, a follower of Perugino (died 1547), and his son Andrea (1578), Giovanni Cam- biaso and Luca Cambiaso his son (died 1585), Tavarone (1556-1641), and Bernardo Castelli (died 1629). Giovanni Cambiaso is the chief of these artists. All were exceedingly prized in their o^ti counti-y ; and the Genoese repubhc conferred an honour upon painting which no other Italian state had bestowed. By a special decree, they raised painting from a trade to a profession, declaring that it was a liberal art, and that it might be practised without derogating from nobility. 86 Route 13.— iWc(3 to Genoa, hy the Rimer a de Ponente, Sect. II, In tlie third era, whicli partly includes some who may also be considered as belonging to the preceding age, Domenico Fiasella, snmamed " Sarzana," from .his birthplace (1584-1669), holds a conspicuous station. The Piola family produced many artists of high merit, one of whom, Pellegro (died 1640), had he not been prematurely cut off, would probably have attained the highest rank in art. Eight of the Piola family were artists, the series extending from 1625 to 1774. The Carlone family also formed a clan of painters. Giovanni Battista Carlone (died 1680) must perhaps be con- sidered as the greatest master of this period ; and his elder brother, Griovanni, was scarcely inferior. During the earlier part of this period Genoa was visited by many foreign artists, more, certainly, than any other state in Italy. Both E/ubens and Vandyke were much encouraged here, and had a good deal of influ- ence on the Genoese school of painting in the early part of the 18th centy. During the great plague of 1657 many of the principal painters died. This is assigned as one of the causes of the sudden decline of the Genoese school ; but the main cause was the general dechne in art, in which all Italy participated. Many young men went to Rome to pursue then' studies ; and, on their return, constituted what is considered as the fourth era. The greater number of these students became the pupils of Carlo Maratta; the most distinguished were, Andrea Carlone (died 1697), Paol' Girolamo Piola (1724), Domenico Parodi (1740), and the Jesuit Padre Pozzi (ob. 1709). The later artists are of no great importance, nor does Genoa at the present day form any exception to the general observation — that Italy exhibits no real symptoms of any efficient revival in painting. EOUTES. ROUTE 13. NICE TO GENOA, BY THE OORNICHE OR RIVIERA DE PONENTE. 203 kil. = 126 English miles. Nice to Oneglia .... 86 Monaco (Rail) . . 20 Alassio .... 108 Mentone . . . . 31 Albenga . . .115 Ventimiglia . . . 42 Finale Marino . .134 San Remo . . . 59 Savona . . . .159 San Stefano . . . ^1 Voltri X .^ ... . 188 Genoa ] ^^^^^^ . 203 San JVIaurizio . . 84 Railway in progress, but not likely to be opened in its entire extent before the end of 1870 ; at present only from Nice to Monaco, and from Savona to Genoa. Until the entire line has been completed, the only means of commu- nication between Genoa and Nice will be by Diligence from the rly. stat. at Mentone as far as that at Savona, two of which start daily, performing the journey in 24 hrs. ; by Vetturini in 2 days, from rly. stat. as above, sleep- ing at Oneglia and Savona; or more expeditiously, and with much greater economy, by the excellent steamboats of the Peirano-Danovaro Company, which, starting at 9 a.m. on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, reach their destination at 6 p.m., allowing the traveller to proceed by other good boats on the same evening to Spezzia or Leghorn, both now on the rlys to Florence, Eome, and S. Italy gene- rally. Nice is now reached in 23 hrs. by the rly. express train from Paris. In- valids can break the journey by sleep- ing at Dijon (JT. de la Cloche), Lyons {Le Grand Hotel), Avignon, and Mar- seilles (Xe Grand Hotel de Marseille), where there are excellent hotels, and from Turin by rly. as far as Cuneo, and thence by posting or diligence. The best Inns at Nice will be H. d'Angleterre (almost the only one open in the summer months), de la Grande Bre- tagne, de France, de la Me'diterranee, Grand H. Chauvain, for the passing traveller ; for others, including pensions BlVlERA. Route lo. — Nice, 87 1 . Cathedral and EvGche, 2. Croix de Marbre. 5. French Protestant Church. 4. English Church and Cemetery. r>. Hotel de Ville. 6. Tribunal. 7. French Theatre. 8. Theatre. 9. Post Office and llasoum. 10. Lycee. 11. Library. 12. Statue of Charles Felix. Hotels:— A. de France. B. derUnivers. C. des Etrangers. D. Chauvain. E. de la Mediterrance. F. Victoria. G. d'Anf^leterre. H. Royal. I. Salon de Lecture Visconti. Riviera.. Ro lite 1 3 . — Ventim iglia. 89 or boarding-houses, see * Handbook of France.' With very few exceptions, all are closed during the summer months, from June to October, so that at this season the tourist may find some diffi- culty in finding quarters. Medical Men: Dr. Pantaleone, 1, Place Massena; Dr. Travis, 15, Place du Jardin Public ; Drs. Drummond, Gurney, &c. Apothecaries : Daniel (Enc^lish) Quai Massena; Musso, Rue du Pont Neiif. For other information respecting Nice see ' Handbook of France,' which contains a detailed description of the city and its environs, with notices on its climate, sanitary advantages, &c. The commencement* of the route of La Corniche, with descriptions of Turbia, Monaco, Mentone, and as far as the French frontier, will be found in the * Handbook of France.' The most convenient way of reaching Monaco and Mentone will be by rly., which, on leaving the Nice stat., traverses a long tunnel under the limestone hill of Montboron, emerging thence on the beautiful bay of Villefranche, and after traversing a low isthmus at the base of the cliffs, runs along the seashore to 20 kil. Monaco Stat., situated in the depression between the town and the two notorious gambling establishments of the Monaco Casino ; from here the line runs through a richly- cultivated district of vines, olive, and carouba trees, leaving the green cape S. Mar- tinez, on the rt. before reaching 10 kil. Mentone Stat. Inns: H. Vic- toria, Pavilion Anglaise or Prince de Galles, H. de la Grande Bretagne, H. d'Angleterre, &c. Medical men — Dr. Henry Bennet, Pension Anglaise, Dr. Siordet. Soon after leaving Mentone we enter the Italian territory; the road passes the frontier at the bridge of St. Louis, * Although the most expeditious, the route by rly. to Genoa will be by far the least inter- esting, traversing as it will raore than 100 tunnels, most of the finest scenery will be lost; persons wishing U) enjoy which, must either travel by the ordinary carriage road, or if by rail, stop at the different towns; this will be particularly the case between Nice and Men- tone, where the road traverses perhaps the finest scenery in the whole of the Riviera di Ponentc and Corniche. a fine arch over a very picturesque ravine. The Italian Custom-house is at St. Mauro : the French one is at so short a distance from Mentone tliat persons coming from Genoa travelling in their own or vetturino carriages can proceed to their inn on foot in a few minutes. From the Pont de S. Louis is a long and steep ascent over the pro- montory of Murtola. Not far from the bridge, on the shore, are some caverns in the red rock, in which have been discovered remains of extinct quad- rupeds, with flint human implements. From Mm'tola the road runs near the sea, and through a fort on the edge of the cliff, to 11 kil. Ventimiglia {Inn : La Grande Bretagne, E. of the town, new inn, on 1. bank of river), the ancient Al- bium Intermelium, and the capital of the Intermelians, a Ligurian tribe. From its position on the brow of a hill, commanding the road along the sea-coast, Ventimiglia has always been an important military position, and its possession much contested in the middle ages by the Genoese, the Counts of Provence, and the Dukes of Savoy. Before the French Eevolution it formed the frontier town of Piedmont on the side of Genoa. It is an episcopal see, and boasts of having had S. Bar- nabas for its first bishop. The Ca- thedral has been much modernized in the interior ; the principal entrance and some parts inside present good specimens of the Gothic peculiar to the churches of the Kiviera. In the ch. of S. Michel, having a good crypt, are two Koman milestones found here, one bearing the number DXC, and inscriptions of Augustus and Antoninus Pius. The Fort above the town, with the approaches on the W. side, have been repaired and greatly strengthened, with an outwork on the edge of the cliff through which the road passes, constitut- ing the principal stronghold between Nice and Genoa. Several Roman in- scriptions found here are built into the walls of the cathedral and of other public edifices. A steep descent leads 90 Route lo,--St, Remo — Bordighera, Sect. 11. to tlie river Roya, which is crossed on a handsome bridge. A sandy flat is now traversed, in which runs the river IMervia, over which an elegant stone bridge of 3 arches has been built, approached by an elevated causeway. N. of Yentimiglia is the Monte Appio, one of the principal s]3urs of the Mari- time Alps. Upon one of its heights stands a castle consisting of 2 towers, supposed to be of Konian construction. At 3^ m. from the bridge over the Xervia, up its valley, is the castle of Dolce Aoqua, a fine feudal relic of the Dorias ; and on one of the heights above the same valley may be seen the village of JPerinaldo, the birthplace of tlie great astronomer, Gian Domenico Cassini, and of Monaldi, liis nephew, also eminent in the same branch of science. A flat sandy plain, formed by the detritus of the neighbouring sand- stone (tertiary) hills which extend from Yentimiglia, is followed nearly as far as Bordighera (Inn: Hotel d'Anglc- terre, an excellent hotel with a fine view, kept by Lozeron ; there are many excursions in the vicinity : English church service during the winter) 3 m. Here the date-palm is exten- sively cultivated, the nature of the soil being particularly suited for that semi-tropical plant. These trees, said to have been introduced by a com- munity of Dominican friars centuries ago, give an oriental aspect to the country around ; and most of them will be seen bound up or swathed at their summits in order to exclude the light, so as to prevent theh leaves be- coming green, as this palm is culti- vated here exclusively for its leaves, used in the ceremonies of the Church on the Sunday before Easter, hence denominated Palm Sunday. They are sent in large quantities every year to Rome, and the inhabitants of Bordighera possess the privilege of furnishing them to the Chapter of St. Peter's, where they are distributed in such large numbers by the Pope. This exclusive right is said to have been accorded by Sixtus Y. to re- ward the ingenious suggestion of a sailor from this place, dming the erection of the great obehsk of the Yatican, who, seeing all efibrts use- less to raise the column when it had reached a certain height, suddenly called out to wet the cables, by which the deshed effect, well known to all seafaring people, was instantly pro- cured, of shortening them. Bordighera is situated on the dechvity of the range terminating in the promontory of Capo di S. Ampoglio. It once constituted, with the adjoining districts of San Biagio, Soldano, Yallebona, and Sasso, a repubhc independent in some degree of Grenoa, but under its protection. The country about Bordighera is very beau- tiful. A delightfid drive along the coast leads to 17 kil. St. Memo. Inns: Hotel de Londres, kept by Boggi of Mentone, clean and comfortable, admu-ably situ- ated to the W. and outside the town, and overlooking the sea, " excellent in every respect" — M. S., Feb., 1869 ; H. Yictoria, on the E. side of St. Remo, " very nice indeed and com- fortable, and laid out for families, but more expensive than the Londres ;" H. d'Angleterre, " a very good house, with a civil and obliging landlord" — T. U. Jf., also outside the town. All these hotels receive guests en pension, and at comparatively moderate rates, 7 to 10 frs. a day. H. Royal, very good, near the Eng. church. " Within the last few years St. Remo has been much resorted to by invalids as a winter residence. An absence of the cutting sharp winds which prove so inconvenient in some parts of Nice, and a freer circulation of air than at Mentone, give it certain advantages over both ; the air at St. Remo is not so dry perhaps as at Nice, and hence generally less u'ritating to the lungs than there. Some of the inns are excel- lent, with more moderate charges, and there are numerous villa residences, either built or in progress, overlook- ing the sea. There are three English physicians, Drs. Whitley, Daubeny, Riviera, Pde. 13. — San Lorenzo— 'Porto Manrizio — Oneglia. 91 and Rose; Dr. Panizzi is a native. The service of the Church of Eiig- hmd is performed tUiriiig the winter season, and a Protestant church has been erected, by subscription, on a site given by the ItaHan Government, the clergyman bemg appointed by the Co- lonial Chiu'ch Society. St. Remo is a large (11,000 Inhab.), flourishing, and thoroughly Italian to\^'n, the chief place of the pro- vince ; it is picturesquely situated on a dechvity descending to the sea-shore, covered by a thick wood of oHve-trees. Except the post-road, at tlie bottom of the town, the streets are narrow, tortuous, and steep. Tlie principal chm'ch is very ancient, and of the ordinary Gothic style of the comitiy. St. Remo is perhaps the mild- est situation on all the Riviera. Here palms, lemon and orange trees grow Avith the greatest luxuriance ; and the fruit of tlie date-palm almost attains matmity. On the outsku'ts of the town are several gardens planted with palms, and during the summer season the traveller will not fail to remark the odoriferous effect of the orange and jessamuae flowers as he passes through. An excursion may be made, on leav- ing S. Remo, to the ch. of La Madonna della Guardia on the Capo Verde, from which there is a magnificent panoramic view of the coast. The high-road con- tinues along the beach through Arma, with, an old square castle at the entrance of the village, to Riva, 2 m. before reach- ing which the once dangerous torrent of la Taggia is crossed by a handsome new bridge. The village of Taggia is seen to the 1. higher up the valley, to 12 kil. San SLefano al Mare, a fisliing- village lying along the beach, on which a heavy surf generally breaks. Looking back towards Capo Yerde the view is very fine. o\ m. farther, San Lorenzo, a small town with its ch. on a low point, backed by rounded hills, covered ^^ith olive-trees. Vines are gro^vn in the plain, which produce a sweet wme something like that of Cyprus, and nearly equal to it. A gradual ascent leads from the sea-shore up the promontory, on which stands Forto Maurizio. {Inn: Hotel du Commerce, tolerable.) The tow^n is upon a hill on the rt., the railroad running below over a kind of neck of land, the lowest part of the promontory that separates the bays of Oneglia and S. Stefano. P. Maurizio is one of the most characteristic towns of the Riviera, standing on a high promon- tory projecting boldly into the sea, and overlooking its little tranquil port, geherally crowded with the picturesque coasting-vessels of the Mediterranean. In the centre is a lofty ch. painted in brilliant colours, whilst towards the N. noble mountains form the background. The neighbourhood of Porto Mam-izio produces much oil, and a considerable trade in this and in otlier agricultural produce is carried on from it. 2 m. farther we arrive at 15 kil. Oneglia. {Inn : Hotel Vic- toria, best, but not very clean.) One- glia is a good halting-place for the night ; it is about half way between Genoa and Nice. The town was bom- barded and burnt by the French under Admiral Truguet in 1792. Andrea Doria, the great Genoese admiral, was born at Oneglia in 1468. Here, in the autumn, the fronts of thehouses are often seen hung with the inflated pig-skins in which the wine is kept. A wire sus- pension-bridge, with the piers of white marble, has been thrown across the Impero torrent, and forms a ncble ap- proach to the town. A toll on car- riages of 2J frs. is paid on crossing it. (For the roads from Oneglia to Turin see Rtes. 9 and 10.) From Oneglia the road, which ascends, becomes very beautiful; far and near the landscape is dotted with bright towns and villages, to afterwards • descend into the valley of Diano, cele- brated for its growth of olives and Diano Marina, as its name imports, upon the shore, and through wliich the 02 Route 1 3 . — Alassio—Albenga, Sect. II. road passes. Diana Calderina and Diano Castello are upon the liills on the 1. Cervo, on a hill overlooking the road, with a large Renaissance church. Cross the Merula, a stream which often floods the neighbouring yalley. The country is unhealthy, and conse- quently not well peopled. About a mile onward, on the 1., is seen the haunted Castle of Andora, a ruin. Here, it is said, a papal Nuncio was murdered ; and the curse pronounced in conse- quence is the cause of the decay of the adjoining territory. 2 m. beyond the mouth of the Merula the Capo delle Mele advances boldly ]nto the sea. This cape divides the lliviera di Ponente into two nearly equal parts. The aspect of the coast clianges. There is a perceptible dif- farence in the quality of the vegetation, particularly of the olive, of which the oil is of an inferior quality. From the Ca]}0 delle Mele to the Capo di Santa Croce the coast encu'cles an extensive bay, on the shores of which are the towns of Lingueglia and 22 kil. Alassio, (An extra horse from Oneglia to Alassio and vice versa all the year. Inn : Hotel de la belle Italic.) The road runs through these towns. Both are places of some commercial activity. The in- habitants are excellent sailors. Alassio lias 6500 Inhab. It is said to derive its name from Alassia, a daughter of the Emperor Otho the Grreat, who fled to the forests in this part of the Riviera with her betrothed Aleramo, where they lived after the fashion of Lord Richard and Alice Brand. On rounding Capo delle Mele we come in sight of the island of Galli- naria^ recognised by the cu^cular ruined tower on it, and the na.me of which is said by Yarro and Columella to have arisen from its containing a particular species of domestic fowls, or, accord- ing to another explanation mentioned by the first of these writers, from fowls having been left here by some navi- gators, which so multiplied as to over- run the island. After crossing Cape Santa Croce, enter the beautiful valley of Alhenga^ splendid in its varied vegetation and rich cultivation. It is watered by the river Centa^ one of the few streams of the Riviera which are perennial. This vaUey contains many pleasant villages. In one, Lusignano^ reached by a road on 1. before entering Albenga, Madame de Grenlis lived some time : she con- sidered the valley as a perfect Ar- cadia. The vines are often allowed to hang in festoons from the trees, a practice which, whenever it prevails, improves the landscape at the expense of the liquor. The female peasantry arrange then* hair with much taste, usually adding small bunches of wild flowers. Lusignano is 2 m. from San Fedele^ which possesses a ruined feudal castle. So does Villamiova, situated at the con- fluence of the torrents by which the Centa is formed. After passing over a marshy plain, frequently overflowed by the Lerone, one of these torrents, we reach Garlenda. The church of this se- questered spot contains some good paintings. The martyrdom of St. Erasmus (N. Foussin) is a fine com- position, though the subject is so horrible as to render it almost dis- gusting. The Yirgin and Child, be- tween St. Benedict and St. Maur (Domenichino), painted with great de- licacy and sweetness. It was intended to remove this painting to Paris. More recently, the curate, and what we should call the vestry, were in treaty to dis- pose of it for 20,000 francs, with which they intended to purchase an organ, and otherwise to embellish the church, but the peasantry rose en masse and prevented the completion of the bargain. After this exciu"sion out of the main road, we must retiu'n to 7kiL Albenga (Inns: none good — mere cabarets), a city, the "capo- iiiviiiiiii. lioute 13. — Alhenga — Loano. luogo" of the province, containing nearly 5000 Inhab. Both within and without, the aspect of this ancient me- tropolis of a rcpubhc which was of sullicient importance to be com'ted as an ally by Carthage is very striking. Tliree lofty brick towers, besides many smaller structures of the same nature, frown over its narrow streets in all the sternness of the feudal ages. Of these, the loftiest is that called the Torre del Marchese Malespina^ in front of wliich, at the basement, are three statues of lions couchant. The second is the Torre del Giielji. The tliird is annexed to the Casa del Com- mune. These towers derive much of their effect fi'om their bold machico- lations and battlements, the peculiar features of Italian castellated archi- tecture, and of wliich these are the first examples wdiich the traveller will see on this road. They have the as- pect of castles of romance ; and here Madame de Genhs has localized her story of the Duchess of Cerifalco, im- mured nine long years in a dungeon by her barbarous husband. The Cathedral is an ancient Grothic building : over the doorw^ays are some bas-rehefs in a singular style, exhi- biting runic knots and unagery not un- hke what are found on the runic pillars of Penrith or Bewcastle. The interior is modernised. The baptistery is an octangular building, supported within by Corinthian pillars, and supposed to have been a heathen temple. It con- tains early Cliristian mosaics, with a cm-ious recessed monument enclosing a sarcophagus. Many unquestionable Roman antiquities have been dis- covered in and about Albenga; and tlie " Ponte Ltingo,'' at the distance of about a quarter of a mile on the road to Genoa, is of Eoman construction, at least in the piers. It was built by the Emperor Honorius. Albenga is one of the unhealthy spots of the Riviera. The frequent inundations of the Centa rendered the ground about it marshy ; and the insalubrity was increased by the numerous flax-steeping grounds. *' Hai faccia di Albenga," You have an Alhenga face, is a proverbial expression, addressed to those who look out of sorts, or out of condition. This insa- lubrity has, however, recently been diminished by draining ; and the steep- ing-grounds are now confined to the vicinity of the sea, and are at some distance from the town. Albenga was occupied by the French in 1794, and became the centre of their mihtary operations ; and in 179G ]N"apoleon made it his head -quarters. During this period the adjoining coun- try suffered greatly from the ravages of the contending armies, and also from epidemic diseases. In 1797 it formed a part of the Ligurian republic, an in- corporation which terminated its in- dependent political existence ; for, although previously subjected to the supremacy of Genoa, Albenga had con- tinued to be governed by its own magistrates and laws. The road now runs close upon the shore, passing, after 5 m., through Ceriale^ a place abounding in plea- sant gardens. 1 m. farther is JBorghetto di Santo Spirlto, above which lies Toirano. The cave of Sta. Lucia in the adjoining hiU is filled with stalactites, and beautiful of its kind; one of its recesses is fitted up as a chapel. Loano, a small city, a title claimed for it by the inhabitants. It was the principal fief of Luigi Fieschi, so celebrated for his unsuccessful con- spiracy. Loano was the scene of the first victory of the French RepubUcans in Italy, on the 24th Nov. 1795, when Scherer and Massena defeated the Aus- trian s with great loss. The present road has been made close to the sea, to avoid going over tlie mountains ; a tunnel leads to Finale. There is a fine view of Genoa befo]*e reaching Finale. Tlie rlwy. is carried tlirough the Headland or Capo di Capra zoppa, through a tunnel, which emerges at the foot of a grand precipice. 19 kil. Finale Marina, on the sea- coast (to distinguish it from Finale Borgo, situated higher up the vaUey in the interior). {Inn: Hotel de la Yenisc, 94 lloiite 1 3 * — F% naie — KoU — Savona, Sect. 11. built in 1869 by Moliuari; a very obliging landlord ; outside the town, in a lovely sheltered spot, the Fort Fer- ruccio behind ; hot and cold baths ; a very agreeable winter residence.) Fi- nale was the capital of a marquisate, wliich anciently belonged to the family of del Caretto. Towards the end of the 15th centy. the town, passing to the kings of Spain, was strongly for- tified by them. The ruins of the nu- merous forts which they built are still seen upon the adjoining heights : they were mostly dismantled by the Grenoese when, after a series of contests, they acquired the marquisate, by purchase in 1713, from the Emperor Charles YI. ; but their title was not considered as established until it was confirmed by Maria Theresa in 1743. Bernini was the architect of the principal church, a collegiate foundation, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. Outside the town, on the side of Grenoa, the church of the Carmelites has a good mediaeval bell tower, with tiers of round-headed arches. On the heights above is the Castello Gavone, a picturesque ruin. One of the towers is fronted with stone cut in facettes, like Tantallon in Scot- land. Behind Finale, 10 min. walk, is Finalhergo^ with a ch. in part ancient containing a curious pvilpit and a mo- nument to Cardmal del Caretto. Varigotti^ an inconsiderable village ; soon after leaving which, the road passes through the fine tunnel or gallery of the Cafo di Noli^ on emerging from which a most lovely prospect opens. The rly. will traverse a much longer tunnel. Noli^ anciently an episcopal city, and picturesque from its walls and towers, terminated by the castle, commanding the town. Noli, like Albenga, was a republic, and preserved its own govern- ment under the Genoese, until both were equally devoured by their G-allic invaders. The cliffs bordering the road are here lofty and beautiful, overhanging the path ; the splendid aloes rising in the rifts, and flourishing in gigantic vigour. A view of Grenoa is gained after having passed the gallery of ]N"oli, when are discovered thelofty light- house, the long line of the Mole, the city, and the fortifications which crown the hills behind. Spotorno, opposite to which is a small island bearing the name of Isola del Bergeggi^ now uninhabited, but upon wliich are some ruins of an abbey and a castle. Pass Bergeggi. At the foot of the clifi" is a stalactitical cavern. From Bergeggi the road runs along the sea- shore under Capo di Vado, on the top of which is a ruined fort. Vado, anciently the seat of a bishop, now a small village ; it has been pro- posed to form a great maritime arsenal under the Cape. From Yado the road continues near the sea, passing through the villages of Zinola and / Fornacci. Yado stands on the site of the ancient Vado Suhagia, some ruins of wliich were discovered a short time since, near the parish church. 25 kil. Savona. (Inns: Hotel Suisse, near the theatre ; very good. The rail- way from here to Grenoa is now open, and a direct line to Turin is in ]-)rogress from Savona by Ceva and Mondovi, thus avoiding the detom' by Alessandria, &c. For the roads from Savona. to Turin, see Rtes. 11 and 12.) — A flourishmg city, the third in importance on the Eiviera, Genoa being the first, and Nice the second. The town exhibits much ap- pearance of activity and prosperity. Large quantities of pottery are made here. It is of high antiquity; here Mago, the Carthaginian, deposited his spoils after the capture of Genoa. The acropolis of the Ligurian city is thought to have been the site of the fort on the "rupe di San' Giorgio." Savona is close upon the sea ; but its once ample port was spoiled by the Genoese in 1528. They blocked it up by sinking hulks fiUed with stones, and the deposit of sand and silt did the rest; and though it has been partly cleared and repaired, it cannot admit vessels of more than 200 tons. RlYIERA. Bout 6 13. — Sadona, 95 The Cathedral was biiilt in 1604, an older and more ciu'ions structure liaving been demolished to make way for the fortifications. This former catliedral had been enriched by the numificence of Pope Juhns II. (Giidio della Rovere), who, born at Albisola close by, was bishop of this see at the time of his election to the papal chgnity. Some of the ornaments of the present cathe- dral are liis gifts, having been saved from the demohshed structure ; as, for example, the fine wood-work of the choir. It contains some good paintings. A Virgin and Cliild, by Lodovico Brea ; the Annunciation and Presentation, by Alhani ; the Scourging of our Lord, by L. Camhiasi; La Ma donna deUa Colonna, by Rohertelli. The last is a fresco, and so called because it was painted on a piUar in the ancient Duomo, from which it was ingeniously detached, and placed in its present situation. In the chapel of the Madonna is a large painting in seven compartments, the Virgin and several Saints in a riclily-sculptured framework, exhibiting the allusive arms of the house of Rovere, — an oak-tree, surmounted by the cardinal's hat. It was the gift of Pope Juhus; and as almost every pictm-e in Italy has its stoiy, it is said with respect to this, that Jidius, who, when Pope, threatened Michael Angelo with a halter, or some- thing as bad, because he did not paint fast enough, eijiployed seven painters upon this work, in order to get it soon out of hand. The best compartment is the St. John by Lodovico Brea. There is a cmnous painted and gilt bas-relief of the Assumption of the Virgin in the N. transept, brought from the old Duomo. Near the cathedral stands the Sistine Chapel, founded by Sixtus IV. (1471-1484), also of the family of La Rovere, and uncle of Julius II., as a place of sepidture for his ancestors. His father was, however, but a poor fishennan, thougli descended from a noble family. Savona was the birthplace of Chia- hrera^ one of the best poets of the 17th century. He was highly successful as a lyric poet : "and though the Grrecian robe is never cast away, he imitated Anacrcon with as much skill as Pindar." Chiabrera also wrote much poetry of a devotional character ; and over his tomb in the chm^cli of San' Griacomo he caused this impressive inscription to be en- graved : — " Amico, lo, vivenrlo, cercava conforto Nel Monte Parnasso: Tu, meglio consigliato, cercalo Nel Calvario." In the Dominican church is a paint- ing attributed to Albert Durer. The Nativity, by Antonio Semini. Lanzi says of this picture that it is sufficient to see it to be convinced that Semini rivals not only Perugino, but Raphael himself. In the cloister of this church is a bust to the memory of Cliia* brera, beneath which is an inscrip- tion written by Pope Urban VIII. The viUa in which Cliiabrera lived is near the ch. of San^ Giacomo, his burial-place. The house in w^hich he was born is in the town, with the significant motto which he chose, " Nihil ex omni parte heatum." And the n^wly-erected theatre is dedicated to him. One of the towers of the port is decorated by a colossal statue of the Virgin, jeneath which, in large cha- racters, is engraved the following in- scription, which may (after a sort) be read either in Latin or Italian. " In mare irato, in subita procella, Invoco te, nostra benigna stella." This conceit has been attributed to Chiabrera ; but there is not the slightest authority for supposing him to be its author. It is part of a popular hymn sung by the sailors and fishermen on this coast. The sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Misericordia, situated about 5 miles from Savona, is a celebrated place of pilgrimage, and well worthy of a visit, though the road is only practi- cable for hght carnages. It is embo- somed in the mountains. The church is built over the spot where a miraculous appearance of the Madonna is said to have taken place in 1536 ; and, 96 Route 13. — Alhisolo-^Varazze, Sect. II. though of such recent origm, the devo- tion of the Riviera so increased its treasures, that they were thought only second to those of Loretto. The greater part of these disappeared imder the French; but the sanctuary has been somewhat replenished, particularly by a crown of silver studded with gems, placed on the head of the image by Pope Pius VII. Marino and Chiabrera in poetry, and Bernardo Castello in painting, vied with each other in ex- ercising their talents in honour of this sanctuary. The church is filled with paintings by Castello, containing nearly the whole Hfe, legendary as weU as scrip- tural, of the Virgin. They are much faded. Castello was the intimate friend of Tasso ; and one of the most prized editions of the Grerusalemme is adorned with engravings, partly executed by Agostino Caracci from his designs. Other objects in this church are a Pre- sentation of the Virgin by Domenichino ; and an alto-rilievo of St. Elizabeth and the Virgin by Bernini. The valley of the sanctuary is properly called the Valley of San' Bernardo. In the small chapel of the village is a very cin-ious and Avell- preserved painting of an early date (1345), containing 14 figures upon a gold ground. RAILWAY FROM SAVONA TO GENOA. 28 m. Savotia to Albisola . . Varazze . . Cogoletto . . Arenzana . . Voltri 29 KIL. . 4 . 12 . 18 . 23 Pra 30 Pegli 34 Sestri di Ponente . 36 Cornigliano ... 38 San Pierdareiia . . 40 Genoa 46 Leaving Savona for Genoa, the rlwy. runs more inland as far as Albisola ; in many parts tunnelled through the rock where the last abutments of the hills come down into the sea, and in some parts supported by terraces. Along this part of the Riviera may be seen villas, sometimes high above the road, sometimes on its level, with their gardens gay with bowers, terraces, trellis walks, and the brightest j)rofu- sion of trees, and shrubs, and flowers. These gardens are generally in the old- fashioned, regular style, and are mostly entered by a lofty gate, once sur- mounted by armorial bearings. Al* most all the buildings were originally painted on the outside, but these paint* ings are all more or less washed off, or faded, by exposin-e to the rain and sun. The traveller will have seen the first specimens at Nice of this kind of decoration. 4 kil. Albisola Marina Stat. The town is at the opening of a pleasant valley, and stretches along the shore. The town oi Albisola Superiore^ 1 m. on 1., contains a palace of the Delia Rovere family, not the building in which Pope Julius was born, though he was a native of the town. In the principal church, the Madonna deUa Concordia, are some good paintings by Fiasella and Ann saldo. 3J kil., Cells Stat. In the church of St. Michael is a pictm^e of the Arch- angel by Pierino del Vaga, painted by him in fulfilment of a vow made during a storm. Following the coast-line, we reach 5 kil., Varazze, or Varagine Stat., a large town of importance, stretching along the coast for more than a mile. Here are built a large proportion of the mercantile marine of Glenoa, the slips for which along the beach form a busy and interesting scene. It is the birthplace of Jacopo di Varagine, the author or compiler of the well-known Grolden Legend, a collection of monk- ish legends of saints, miracles, and adventures of the devil, which was most popular in the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries. It has the fame of being the chief book which trans- formed Loyola from a soldier to a re- ligious enthusiast. In 1292 its author became Archbishop of Grenoa, where he excelled in charity and benevolence, and was most useful in putting down the factions by which the city was tlien disturbed. In the hills above Va- ragine is a very singular monastery, most appropriately called " II -Z>oria Tursi, or del Muni- cipio, in the Strada I^uova, now oc- cupied by the MunicipaUty of Genoa; it formerly belonged to the Queen Dowager of Sardinia, who bequeathed it to the Jesuits, by whom it was occupied until their expulsion. The facade is grand, and is flanked by terraces with open arcades, upon which rest gardens. The architect was Kocca Lurago, of Como, who built it for Nicolo Grimaldi, from whom it passed to one of the Doria family, created Duke of Tursi. In the lower cortile are some very mediocre frescoes relative to the visit to Genoa of Don John of Austria, removed from the Ducal Palace. On the first floor in the ante-room of the hall, where the town council assembles, is a marble pedestal, on which stands a bust of Columbus, and in a recess under it a box containing some inter- esting MSS. of that great navigator; especially 3 autograph letters, one to the Bank of St. George transmitting his , wiU (1502), by wliich he bequeathed one-tenth of aU he possessed to that establishment and an authenticated copy of all the documents connected with the honours conferred u]Don him by the Kings of Spaui ; a second letter on the same subject ; and the third to Oderigo, the Genoese agent in Spain, complaining that the bank had never acknowledged the receipt of the will. It may not be out of place to state that no trace of the will has been discovered amongst the records of the Banco di S. Giorgio, and that the only record of the last wishes of the discoverer of the new world is a copy in the arcliives of his Spanish de- scendant, the Duke di Veraguas, at Madrid. These precious MSS. were discovered among the papers of the Cambiaso family some years smce, hav- ing been fraudulently obtained from the archives of S. Giorgio, a too com- mon practice of late years in Italy ; they are now preserved under triple lock and key. In another room of the Mu- nicipality are a few good Dutch pic- tm^es, formerly in the. ducal palace ; one by Albert Durer, another by Ma- huse, and a third probably by Van Eyclc ; Paganini's vioHn ; and a piece of embroidery representing the mar- tyrdom of St. Lawrence, said to date from A.D. 1001, a gift of the Greek Emperor Palseologus : as they are in the apartments of the Mayor (Sindaco), they can only be seen when his tvorship has left his office. Here is kept one of the most re- markable monuments of the history of Genoa — a bronze table, contain- ing the award made A. IJ. c. 633, by Quintus Marcus Minutius and Q. F. Rufus, between the Genuenses and the Viturii, supposed to be the inhabit- ants of Langasco and Yoltaggio, in the upper valley of the Polcevera, who had been disputing about the extent of their respective territories, and had peti- tioned the Senate in an appeal from the jurisdiction of the local Genoese authorities. This boundary question was most carefully investigated : the landmarks are set out with great minute- Riviera. Route 13. — Genoa: Palaces; Pictures, 113 ness, and clauses are inserted respect- ing rights of common and commuta- • tion rents, vdili as much accvu'acy as we should now find in an Inclosiu'e Bill. The table was discovered in 1506 by a peasant when diggmg his land at Isosecco, near Pedemonte, 6 m. from Q-enoa. He brought it to G-enoa for the purjDOse of selling it as old metal ; but the matter comuig to the know- ledge of the senate, they purchased it for the commonwealth. Palazzo Serra, Strada ISTuova, No. 49, by Alessio. The entrance, which is modernised, is riclily decorated ; and Semlni and Galeotti^ Grenoese artists, painted the ceihngs, &c., of the prin- cipal rooms. The saloon is particu- larly rich ; the gilding, said to have cost a miUion of francs, the white marble bas-reUefs, the caryatides, the mirrors, the mosaic pavement, procured for this palace its name of the Palazzo del Sole. The entresol has been recently fitted up by a member of the family, in a style of richness and magnificence seldom to be met with, even in the dwellings of royalty. Palazzo Adorno contains some good frescoes by Taveroniy of subjects from Genoese history. Palazzo Spinola (Ferdinando), for- merly Palazzo G-rimaldi, Strada Nuova, No. 44, opposite the last, a large and fine building, with good pictures. The Ha l l. — Frescoes by Semino ; a man on horseback by Vandylce. Fiest Saloon. — Two fine portraits by Andrea del Sarto; a remarkable portrait of a Philosopher in a black dress, by Sehas- tiano del Piomho ; a finely preserved and beautifully painted circular pic- ture of the Virgin and Child, by JBecca- fivmi ; a Venus, by Titian ; and a fine ! head, by Vandyke. Thied Saloon. — A Crucifixion by Vandylce ; a Holy I Family, Gian. Bellini ; and the same subject, with two Samts, by Imi/ii. Palazzo Lercaro Impenale.^ Strada Nuova. A striking facade, opening into a handsome cortile. The first floor is now occupied by the club or Casino, where strangers remaining at Genoa for some tune can easily obtain admittance. The Palazzo Sphiola (Gfiov, Patt.) ; containing the following pictures : — Carlone, ^Eneas and the Cumsean Sibyl; Vandyke^ Madonna and Cliild; Le Sueur ^ Joseph before Pharaoh ; GiddOy St. Sebastian ; G-uercino^ Madonna and Child sleeping ; Domenichino, the Fa- mily of Tobias; Borgognone, Holy Family, and Abraham's Sacrifice ; Bas' sano, the Marriage of Cana ; Parmeg- gianino^ the Adoration of the Kings ; Guido, the FUght into Egypt ; Ann. Caracci^ a Woman and Child, and a Woman with two Men ; Luca Gior- dano^ the Woman of Samaria. Palazzo Doria (Giorgio), Strada Nuova, contains a fine full-length por- trait of a Lady of this noble house, by Vandyke ; and a remarkably fine one of a Duchess of Sforza Cesarini, by Leo- nardo da Vinci. The Strada Niiova opens into an irregular open space, called the Piazza delle Fontane Amorose, containing some fine buildings, of which the principal are the Falazzo Negroni, No. 24, a wide- spreading and noble front ; there are here some good pictures — Tarquin and Lucretia, by Guercino ; and some in- teresting frescoes, relating to the deeds of the Negroni family, by Parodi. Next to it is the P. Pallavicini with its painted fa9ade ; and close to the latter, forming the entrance to the Strada Nuova, the handsome P. Camhiaso with its double marble fronts. Palazzo Cattaneo, near the ch. of San Giorgio, has some portraits by Van- dyke, but in a miserably neglected state. Palazzo Spinola dei Marmi, Piazza delle Fontane Amorosej an edifice of the 15th century, built of alternate 114 Route 13. — Genoa: Palaces; Pictures. Sect. II. courses of white and black marble; in front are four niches containing full- length statues of members of the family Vv'ith inscriptions in Grothic characters beneath. This palace is said to have been built from the materials of that of the Fieschi, near Santa Maria in Yia Lata, pulled dowTi by order of the Senate after their Conspiracy in 1336^ It contains some of the earhest frescoes of Cambiaso^ in particular the Combat of the Titans, which he executed at eighteen years of age. The Strada Carlo Felice, which con- nects the Piazza delle Fontane Amorose with the Piazza Carlo Felice, is of re- cent date and has less architectural splendour than the Strada Nuova : it is broad and regular, and is chiefly oc- cupied by shops. Palazzo Pallavlcini, Strada Carlo Felice, No. 12, open from 10 to 3. The name of Pallavicini, one of the most ancient in Grenoa, has by some been derived from Pela vicino, or " strip my neighbour," but without any foun- dation, the appellation being derived from the district of the same name, the Stato Pallavicino, situated near the Po, between Parma and Cremona (see p. 454). A member of this family acted in England in conformity to the supposed signification of his patro- nyme. This was " Sir Horatio Palvasene, "Who robb'd the Pope to pay the Queen." He was receiver and banker of the court of Kome dm*ing the reign of Mary ; and having a good balance in his hands at the accession of Elizabeth, could not then reconcile himself to the iniquity of letting so much money go out of the country to be employed against his new sovereign. He built Babraham in Cambridgeshire, and be- came afterwards allied by marriage with the Cromwells. The palace contains a collection of pictures, many of which are of merit. There are hand-catalogues in the difierent rooms. — I. Sala or G-ALLERY, GuercinOj an Ecce Homo ; U. Sirani, Santa CseciHa ; Breiighel, a Flower G-arden; Albani, a Magdalen and Our Saviour. — II. Sala della Cammina. a. del Sarto, Adoration of the Magi ; JB. Strozzi or II CappuccinOy Sta. Caterina; Jjiica Giordano, a large picture of a Holy Family ; Lnca di Olanda, the Crucifixion, with the fa- mily of the Donatario kneeling below. — III. Sala del Cardinale, from a portrait of a Cardinal of the Pallavicini family over the chimney; Luca di Olanda, Madonna and Child, with the Donatarii in the lateral compartments FrancescMni, the Death of Adonis Luca di Olanda, a dead Christ Alhani (?), Diana in the Bath: in the passage leading from this to the next room is a good picture of Madonna and Saints, attributed to A. del Sarto. — TV. Salone di Levante. Huhens, the Angel hberating St. Peter; Ho- manelli, a very pretty Magdalene ; Schidone, a good Madonna and Child ; II Cappuccino, an Adolorata ; Frances- chini, the Ascension of St. Mary Mag- dalen; Guido, Christ on the Cross, with St. Francis > Raphael (?), the Madonna della Colonna, so called from the column introduced in the picture — somewhat injured by resto- rations, still it is a lovely picture : the central portion, containing the Virgin and Child, appears to form a separate piece from the rest, the greater part of the column being on what appears a part subsequently added. It is very doubtful that Raphael painted this pic- ture. Guercino, St. Jerome; A, Ca- racci, St. John the Baptist ; JBassano, the Journeying of Jacob and his family; M. A. Caravaggio, an Ecce Homo. — V. Salone del Divano. Five circular family portraits, four of females, by S. Migaud. — VI. Sa- j LONE DI Conversazione. Castiglione^ a large picture of Pan and Animals. I Vandyke, the beautiful picture known by the name of Coriolanus and Ve- ' turia, generally considered to repre- |i sent James 1. of England, his wife r and children. The costumes are quite \: Hispano - Dutch of the l7tli cent. ; ^ the portraits of the females lovely. (■ Riviera. Boute 13. — Genoa: Palaces; Pictures. 115 Gxiercino^ octagonal picture of Music ; Luca Cambiaso, Venus and Cupid; A. Semini, Cleopatra; Castlgllone^ tlie finding of Eomidus. — VII. Sala di PONENTE. Guercino, Mutius ScsDvola before Porsenna ; Lnva di 01 and a, De- scent from the Cross, with portraits of the Donatorio and family in the lateral compartments, the men on the 1. and the females on the rt. ; SpagnoJetto^ the Woman taken in Adultery ; Fran- ceschini, Bathsheba in the Bath, a good painting ; Ann. Caracci, a pretty small Magdalen on copper ; Vandt/ke, portrait of one of the Pallavacinis ; Bassano, two pictures of Cattle and Sheep. The beautiful Yilla Pallavicini at Pegli (see p. 97) belongs to the owner of this palace, one of the most w^ealthy of the Genoese aristocracy, wdiere orders to visit it may be obtained. The Strada JBalhi^ which forms a continuation of the Piazza delV Anmm- ziata, derives its name from the noble family by whom some of its palaces were built, the principal of which are — on the rt. side, P. Durazzo della Scala and P. Balhi, now the University; and on the 1. another P. Balbi, which was once the Durazzo Palace, but which, liaving been sold to the government, now forms the residence of the sove- reign, under the name of Palazzo Reale. Palazzo Balbi, a fine palace built in the early part of the 17th century from the designs of Bartolommeo Bianco. The court is suiTOunded by 3 tiers of porticoes, the upperaiost of which forms part of the family apartments, being enclosed with glass. This suite of rooms is very richly decorated, and, being at all times open to tlie stranger, will give him a good idea of the dwell- ings of the wealthy Genoese aristo- cracy : tlie vaulted ceilings are higlily ornamented and painted by native artists. The rooms contain a very good collection of pictures, many of wliicli are first-rate ; indeed the Balbi gallery may be considered the third in importance in Grenoa. The first room entered from the quadrangular closed portico is the G-REAT Hall, or Salone, a magnifi- cent square room. — Vandyke, an eques- trian portrait, very fine ; Bernardino Sfrozzi, or II Cappuccino, Joseph in- terpreting the chief Butler's dream — one of the artist's best works — he was a Genoese Capuchin friar, and in a great measure self-taught. 2nd Room. — 6. Guido, Lucretia ; 7. Alhani, a Bac- chanalian scene ; Ann. Caracci, Sta. Caterina — very pretty picture; Ag. Caracci, a Martyr ; 18. Mantegna, Ma- donna and Child ; 19. Michel Angelo, Our Saviour and the Apostles — more than doubtful — called by some Christ's Agony in the Garden, said to be de- signed by M. Angelo, and finished by Seb. del Piombo ; 20. Vandylce^ A Holy Family. Rubens, Our Lord and St. John the Baptist as infants. 3rd Room. — 23. Vandyke, ^'fine portrait of a lady seated; 24. id., ^^equestrian portrait of Paolo Balbi the senator, to which was subse- quently added by Velasquez the head of Philip II. of Spain, to save it from destruction when Balbi was disgraced and banished from Genoa ; 25. lAica CawJm^o, family portrait. 4th Room. — 31. Michel Angelo Caravaggio, Con- version of St. Paul ; 32. Luca di Olanda, a Holy Family; Guido, St. Jerome ; Ann. Caracci, a Magdalen. 5th Room, Library. — 39. Guercino, Andromeda ; 41. Guercino, Cleopatra ; 45. Bassano, a large picture of aMarket. 6th Room, Gallery. — Although this beautiful room contains nearly as many paintings as all the others united, none are very remarkable ; Spagnoletto, two ]Dictures called the Philosopher and Mathematician ; Tintoretto, a fine male portrait ; Bierino del Vaga, Madonna and Child ; 73. Vandyke, A Holy Fa- mily ; 75. Vandyke, Portrait of a Spa- nish Gentleman on horseback ; 82. Memling, *Our Saviour on the Cross; 85. Garofalo, A Holy Family ; 87. Filippo Lippi, The Commmiion of St. Jerome ; Guido, Assumption of the 116 Route 13. — Genoa: PalazzaBeale; delta Universita. Sect. II. Magdalene; Paolo Veronese^ Portrait of a Yenetian Doge. Palazzo Peale. Formerly belonging to the Durazzo family, was purchased by the king in 1815, and splendidly fitted up by Charles Albert in 1842, as a royal residence. The front is nearly 300 feet in length ; it was built from the designs of &. A. Falcone and P. F. Cantone. It contained a fine collection of pictures, the greater part of wliich have been removed to the Royal Gal- lery at Turin. The portraits of the Durazzo family, and the other pic- tures relative to that noble house, by Piola and Barloletto, are however still at Grenoa in possession of their de- scendants. The P. Reale is open to strangers every day except during the occasional visits of the court. Entering from the great staircase on the second floor, the 1st room has 2 large Marmas by Burrasca ; the 2nd, called the Salotto delta Face, a Carita Eomana by Carloni ; the 3rd, the Salotto di Paolo, contains an ancient copy of the fine picture wliich is now in the gallery of Turin, by Paul Veronese, representing the Feast of Our Lord in the house of the Pharisee, with the Magdalene at his feet. Opening out of tliis room is the GtEAN G-alleria, painted by Parodi : there are some indif- ferent antique statues, busts of Apollo, Venus, Bacchus, &c., but all much made up : 2 modern ones of Flora and Zephyr by Filippo Parodi, and a group of the Rape of Proserpine by Seliiaffone. Recrossing the Salotto di Paolo, we enter the Piccola Galleeia, forming a passage to what formerly was called the Salone di Giordano, but which is now the Theone Room, newly and magnificently decorated and containing the 2 celebrated pictures by Luca Gior- dano, of Ohnda and Sophronia, and the Transformation of Phineas by Perseus. iNext to this is the king's Audience Moom, having only some indifferent modern pictures and tapestry ; copies of St. Peter and St. Paul by Fra Bar- tolommeo: followed by the bed-room and study of the unfortunate king Carlo Alberto, the floors formed of very handsome inlaid work in coloured woods. In the Sala delta Cappella there is a Last Supper hjBonnano diFerrara; San Bernardo by Spagnoletto ; San Antonio by Ann, Caracci; a Dead Man by Sontliorst ; a Sibilla Cumsea by Ann. Caracci. In the Salone di Tapisseria are some old GobeUns and several portraits of kings of the House of Savoy, which replace those of the Durazzo family that once stood in these spaces, and which were not ahen- ated with the palace. Salotta di AuEOEA contains a Crucifixion and a portrait of Caterina Durazzo, said to be by Vandyke; 2 pictures of saints by U Cappuccino, &c. : this room opens on the terrace overlooking the harbour, from which the view is so interesting. At the opposite side of this terrace is a room called the Sa- lotta del Tempo, corresponding with the S, di Aurora, in which there is a good Madonna and Child with St. John by D. Piola; 2 doubtful por- traits by Tintoretto; 2 battle-pieces by Borgognone ; and several pictures with animals by il GrecJietto ; the Wo- man taken in Adultery by Moretto da Brescia ; a pretended head by Titian, &c. Palazzo delta Universitd, Strada Balbi. This building was erected at the expense of the Balbi family. The vestibule and the cortile are amongst the finest specimens of the kind. Two huge lions are placed at the top of the staircase. The halls are decorated with frescoes by Genoese painters and with oil pictures. The Hall of Me- dicine contains some bronze statues by Giovanni di Bologna, and in the Great Hall are six of the Cardinal Yirtues by the same sculptor, whilst in a third room above are a number of his bas-reliefs in bronze. The museum of natural history is interesting, as con* taining a good collection of the birds and fishes of this part of Italy. The library, which is open to the pubhc, * contains about 45,000 vols. The Uni- versity consists of three faculties, Law, Sect. II. Eoute 13. — Palazzo Durazzo ; Imperiale, 117 Medicine, and Humanities. In each there is a senate composed of twelve doctors, by whom the degrees are con- ferred. In the church belongmg to the University is a bas-rehef in bronze, and in the sacristy another, a good Descent from the Cross, both by G-iov. di Bologna. Behind the University Palace is a small Botanic Garden ; in the court leadmg to it several cm-ions inscriptions removed here from sup- pressed churches, and on the top of the palace the Meteorological Obser- vatoiy. Palazzo Durazzo^ or della Scala (of the Stairs), in the Via Balbi, is one of the finest of the GTenoese palaces: it was erected in the I7tli century for the Balbis, by Bart. Bianco, The court is surrounded by a Doric colonnade of white marble, from a corner of which opens the magnificent flight of stairs which has rendered it so celebrated. The 2 statues of Union and Force, in the lower vestibule, are by F. Rovaschio. The Palace contains several good pic- tures. 1st room on the left : Ludovico Caracci, an Ecce Homo ; Annihale Caracciy St. Peter ; JPaolo Veronese^ S. Catherine ; Buhens and VandyJce^ 2 cfrcidar portraits. 2nd saloon : Guer- cino, Christ and the Pharisees, or the Tribute Money ; Simone da Besaro, the Flight into Egypt ; Bellegrini, the Oath of Grertinide, mother of Hamlet ; Titian, a Magdalen, injured by re- storers ; Brocaccinij the Woman taken m Adidtery. 3rd saloon : Vandyke, 4 fine portraits of the Durazzo family ; Buhens, Pliihp IV. ; Domenichino, Jesus appearmg to Mary, the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, and Venus weeping over Adonis ; Spagnoletto, 3 pictures of Philosophers. Palazzo ImiDeriale, m the Piazza del Campetto. This palace is much decayed. In the soffit are frescoes, with mythological subjects in the com- partments. To describe all the palaces of G-enoa would be out of place in the present work, yet one more must be noticed, which, from its situation, is the most striking of them all: the Villa, or Palazzo Doria, called also P. del Principe, situated beyond the Piazza di Aqua Verde and the rly. stat., and the gardens of which extend to the sea* These gardens, vrith the palace in their centre, form a noble feature in the panorama of the port of Genoa. This magnificent pile, originally the Palazzo Fregoso, was given to the great Andrea Doria, in 1522, and improved, or rather rebuilt, and brought to its present form, by liim. The stately feelings of this Doria, who is emphatically called " II Princdpe" (for that title of dignity had been granted to him by Charles V.), are expressed in the inscription which is engraved on the exterior of the edi- fice : "Divino munere, Andreas D'Oria Cevse F. S. R. Ecclesise Caroli Impera- toris Catolici maximi et invictissimi Francisci primi Francorum Regis et Patriae classis triremium iiii. prsefectus ut maximo labore jam fesso corpore honesto otio quiesceret, sedes sibi et successoribus instauravit. m.d.xxviii.'* The architect who dfrected Doria' s alterations was Montorsoh, a Floren- tine, but many portions were designed by Pierino del Vaga, who has here left some of the best productions of his pencil. Pierino, poor, sorrowful, and needy, driven from Rome by the calamities which had befallen the Eternal City when stormed by the Imperiahsts in 1527, was kindly received by Doria, who became his patron, giving him constant employ- ment. He worked here, not merely as a painter, but as a general decorator; and it was Doria' s express wish to reproduce in his palace, as much as pos- sible, the magnificence of the buildings wliich Raphael had adorned at Rome. The decorations introduced by Pie- rino in this palace were exceedingly admired ; and he became, in fact, the founder of the pecuHar style which prevails in the other palaces by wliich G-enoa has been so much adorned. In the gallery that leads to the terraced garden are the portraits of Andrea Do- ria and liis family. The figures are in 118 Route 13. — Gen oa : Cathedral. Sect. IT. a semi-lievoic costume; Andrea Doria is grey-headed, his sons are hehneted, and supporting themselves upon theii' shields. Beyond this gallery is the garden, where are walks of cypress and orange, fountams, statues, and vases. In the background are the moles, the lighthouse, and the sea. The fountain in the centre represents Andrea in the character of IS^eptune. Over another fountain is a fanciful mermaid or merman, the portrait of one which, according to popular be- lief, was caught at G^enoa. Opposite to the palace, on the street front, is an- other garden belonging to it, bordered by a grapery. In this garden is the monu- ment raised by Doria to " II graiib Moldano^^ a great dog which had been given to him by Charles Y. : here also is a grotto built by Alessio, in its time much admired, but now almost a ruin. The successive employments held by Doria enabled him to acquu'e great wealth. With these riches he was able to keep a fleet of 22 galleys ; a force with which he turned the scale against the French, and accomplished the deh- verance of Genoa, 11th Sept. 1528, from the heavy yoke which they imposed. " Questo e quel Doria, che fa dai Pirati Sicuro il vostro mar per tutti i lati. Non fii Pompeio a par di costui degno, Se ben vinse, e caccio tutti i Corsari ; Pero che quelli al piii possente regno Che fosse mai, non poteano esser pari ; Ma questo Doria sol col proprio ingegno E proprie forze purghera quei mari ; Si che da Calpe al Nilo, ovunque s' oda II nome suo, tremar veggio ogni proda. Questi, ed ognaltro che la patria tenta • Di libera far serva, si arrossisca ; Ne dove il nome d' Andrea Doria senta, Di levar gli occhi in viso d' uomo ardisca. Veggio Carlo, che 'I premio gli augmenta ; Ch' oltre quel che in commun voiil che fruisca, Gli da la ricca terra, ch' ai Normandi Sara principio a farli in Puglia grandi." Orlando Furioso, cant. xv. 30-34. It was under Doria' s influence and counsel that the form of government was established in Grenoa which lasted till the French revolution. He was offered the ducal authority for life, and there is no doubt but that he might have acqiui'ed the absolute sovereignty. The Dorias are still numerous at Genoa, but the elder branch, to whom this palace belongs, since its alliance with the Papal family of Pamphih, resides at Rome; a part of the palace is gene- rally let, and is in good preservation. The Duomo or Cathedral^ dedicated to St. Lorenzo, was built in the 11th centy., consecrated in 1118 by Pope Gelasius IL, and restored about 1300. The front belongs to the latter date. The intention was, probably, to erect two towers, but of these only one has been executed, and that at a later period. There are traces in this edifice of the taste which prevailed at Pisa and Lucca. Some of the columns of the portal were taken from Tortosa and Almeria, as part of the spoils won at the capture of those cities, 1148 : among the vestiges of an earlier period are the cmuous ornaments on the N., exhibiting monsters and runic knots, and some rude basso-rilievos encrusted in the outer walls. Over the principal entrance is a bas-relief representing the Martyrdom of S. Lawrence, with some quaint figures of the 13th or Idth cents. ; and into several parts of the outer walls are let Pagan bas-reliefs, which formed the front of sarcophagi, of the Roman period. The handsome Campanile dates from the early part of the 16th cent. On the sides of the nave are in- scriptions, from wliich we ascertain that the N. side was completed in 1307, and the S. in 1312; fm'thermore it is re- lated how the city was founded by Janus I. King of Italy, the grandson of Noah; and how Janus II. Prince of Troy took possession of the city founded by his namesake and ancestor. These inscriptions are engraved in Gothic letters in the form employed in coeval manuscripts, and are fine specimens of lapidary calligraphy. Internally the nave is preceded by a very elegant inner Gothic porch with a groined roof, and which, as well as the columns that support it, is formed of alternate courses of black and white KlVIERA. Eoute IS. — Genoa: CathedmL 119 marble : over tliis porch is wliat was originally the Cant or ia or organ-loft. Tlie nave is separated from the aisles by Cormthian columns supporting nine pointed arches, each column being formed of that variety of serpentine called Polcevera breccia : upon these pointed arches rests an entablature with the long inscription in Gothic characters above noticed, over whicli rises a second tier of round, or what might be called triforum, arches, sup- ported by stumpy columns and pilas- ters, in alternate com'ses of white and black marble. There is no triforum, properly speaking, the walls of the arches being continued to the roof with- out intermediate floor. The choir and side chapels have been modernised, and covered with sculp- tures, paintings, and gilding. The arcliitecture is by Alessio. The high altar is decorated with a fine statue in bronze of the Madonna and Child, by Gr. B. Bianco, a work of the 17th cent. ; the marble statue of S. John the Evangehst, is by Montorsoli, The paintings are not first-rate ; the principal are — Barrocclo^ St. Sebastian, in the chapel at the end of the rt. nave; Ferrari^ the Yirgin; PzoZa, the Ascension ; and, L. Camhiaso, Saints adoring the Infant Saviour, good. The stalls of the choir beliind the high altar are in very handsome w-ood- carving with backs of coloured intarsia-work : the choir, according to the inscription, was restored to its present form in 1624. The ancient manuscript choir- books are yet in use, and they are fine volumes of their kind. In the Palla- vicini chapel^ corresponding to the left- hand transept, is a detached marble statue of a cardinal kneeling before the altar, a good figure. An altarpiece by Gaggini, of Genoa, has lately been ])ut up in the chapel on the rt. of the lii<^li altar. The richest portion of this church is the Chapel of St. John the Baptist, into which no female is permitted to enter except on one day of the year, an exclusion imposed by Pope Innocent VIII., as it is said, in recollection of the daughter of Herodias. The screen which divides it from the church is u). a rich cinquecento or Renaissance, and was completed about 1496. The canopy over the altar, supported by four por- phyry piUars, covering the sarcophagus in which the so-called relics of the Baptist are contained, was erected in 1532 at the expense of Filippo Doria. The eleven statues, and the bas-reliefs whicli adorn the external faQade, are by Guglielmo delta Forta. Eight niches in the interior of the chapel are also filled with statues, six of which are by Matteo Civitale (1435-1501), that of Zaccharias is pecularly fine ; and two, the Madonna, and the Baptist, by Sansovino. The altar is by Giacomo and Guglielmo delta Forta. The relics of the saint are contained in an iron- bound chest, which is seen through the apertures of the marble covering. On the day of his nativity they arc carried in procession, being placed in the Cassone di San' Giovanni^ a shrine preserved in the treasury of the cathe- dral. It was made in 1437 by Teramo di Daniele of silver gilt, a combination of Gothic panels, tracery, and finials of the most delicate workmanship. The sides are covered with imagery of the history of St. John ; the figures being all but completely detached from the background. In the treasury is preserved a more interesting relic, the Sacro Catino, long supposed to be composed of a single piece of emerald. It was part of the spoils taken at Csesarea, 1101. The Crusaders and their allies divided the booty ; and the Genoese, under the command of Guglielmo Embriaco, se- lected this precious vessel as their portion. The supposed intrinsic worth of the material was infinitely enhanced by the fond traditions annexed to the vessel, whether as a gift from the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, or as the dish which held the Pascal Lamb at the Last Supper, or the vessel in which Joseph of Arimathea received the blood flowing from the side of the Redeemer. Three times each year was the Catino brought out of the sacristy, and exposed to the venera- tion of the faithful. A prelate of high 120 Moute IS.^Genoa : Churches. Sect. 11. rank exhibited it to tlie multitude; and around him were ranged the Cla- vigeri, to whose care the rehc was com- mitted. No stranger was allowed to touch the Catino under heavy penal- ties ; and the attempt to try the mate- rial by steel or diamond, gem or coral, or any real or supposed test of its genu- ineness or hardness, was punishable with heavy fines, imprisonment, or even death. Acute and somewhat sceptical . travellers, as Keysler and the Abbe Barthelemy, in spite of these precau- 1 tions, saw enough to lead them to sup- pose that the Catino was glass, a fact which is now fully confirmed. But the extraordinary perfection of the ma- terial, as well as of the workmanship, must always cause it to be considered as a very remarkable monument, and of remote antiquity. The dish is hex- agonal, with some shght ornaments, which appear to have been finished with the tool, as in gem engravmg. The colour is beautiful, the transpa- rency perfect ; but a few ab^-bubbles sufiiciently disclose the substance of wliich it is made. The Catino was sent to Paris ; and was reclaimed in 1815, with other objects of art. It was so carelessly packed that it broke by the way. The fragments have been united by a setting of gold fihgree. The keys of the cabinet are kept by the munici pal authorities, and a fee of about 5 francs is expected, at least from Eng- lishmen, by the officer who opens the door. On the N. side of the cathedral, but separated from it, is the Baptistery, no longer used as such; and a large cloister, in which are the residences of the canons, but it has nearly lost all vestiges of antiquity. Many of the churches of Genoa were demohshed during the French occupa- tion. Amongst those which remain, the most conspicuous are Sant' Agostinoyiaovf desecrated, a good specimen of the Genoese Gothic of the 14th centy. The campanile, which, hke the rest of the church, is built of alter- nate courses of white and black marble, is remarkable. Sanf Amlrogio or di Gesu, near the Piazzo di Carlo Fehce, entirely built at the expense of the Pallavacini family. The interior is covered with rich marbles and paintings ; from the vaulting down to the pavement all is marble, mosaics, gold, and colom^s. Here are several fine paintings :— The Assumption, by Guido, in the 3rd chapel on the rt. : the Yirgin sur- rounded by hosts of angels. The I commission for this picture was sent I to Bologna, and offered to the Caracci and to Guido ; when the latter, being willing to execute it for half the price demanded by his competitors, obtained the order. The Caracci were much vexed ; but when the picture was ex- hibited, they fully acknowledged its excellence. The Circumcision, over the Hio-h Altar, by Euhens, painted before he%ame to Genoa; and St. Ignatms healing a Demoniac, in the 1. aisle painted in this city. The altar-piece was executed whUst he was in ignorance of the height and the position whence it would be seen ; but in the second picture he was able to adapt his figures accurately to their site. Beneath is a small painting of the Yirgm and CMd, which belonged to St. Ignatius. ^ The ft^coes in the cupolas are prmcipaUy by Caodoni and Galeotto. The four very fine Corinthian columns at the high altar are of Porto Yenere marble. VAnnundata is, like many other churches we have noticed, a monument of private munificence. It was built and decorated at the expense of the Lo- mellini family, formerly sovereigns oi , the island of Tabarca off" the N. coast ! of Africa, which they held until 1741, ' when it was taken by the Bey of Tunis, The very rich marbles of the mterioi sive it extraordinary splendour. Th( roof has been recently regilt, and th< church magnificently restored. Her( is the "Cena" of Frocaceini, a nobl< painting, but unfavourably placed ove] the principal entrance. The Ch. of San Donato, built on t|i( site of a more ancient edifice of th( . 12th centy. In the interior are som( Riviera* Houte 13, — Genoa: Churches. 121 columns, ill gi'aiiitd AnA cippolino, of a pagan edifice, wliicli support the round arches of the nave. The octagonal bell-tower is of an early period. Sa)i Giovanni di Pre, near the dock- yard, formerly the Chui'ch of the Knights of St. John, built in the 13th contiu'v ; some of the round arches of the original edifice are still visible ; the present entrance has been cut into the tribune at the E. extremity of the old chiu-ch, at a comparatively recent period. It was in the rich convent to which this church was attached that Urban V. resided on his retm'n from Avignon. Some remains of the ancient cloisters may be yet seen, with a head of St. John of the 12th centy. over one of the doors. It was in the convent of S> Q-iovanni that Urban VI. caused to be barbarously executed 5 cardinals of liis opponents, made prisoners at the siege of Lucera in 1386 ; the sixth, being an EngUshman, Cardinal Adam of Hertford, is said to have been spared in consequence of the inter- cession of his countrymen, then in- fluential at Genoa. In making some excavations years ago the skeletons of these imfortunate victims of Papal Vengeance were discovered. The crypt of this ch., now used as a warehouse, is probably of the 12th century. Santa Maria di Carignano^ finely situated on a hill, built from the ground about 1552, and endowed by the Sauli family. It is in the form of a G-reek cross, with a lofty dome in the centre. It was built by Alessio» Two colossal statues by Puget, and two by David, are placed beneath the cupola. They represent St. Sebastian, St. John, St. Bartholomew, and the blessed Alessan- dro SauH. Paintings. — Guercino, St. ! Francis receiving the stigmata — oriojin- ; ally good, tliougli now damaged ; Pro- ; caccini, the Virgin and Saints ; Piola, I St. Peter and St. John healing the Man afflicted with Palsy ; Cambiaso, Three subjects, of which the best is a Pietit; Carlo Maratta, The Martyr- dom of St. Biagio; Vanni of Sienna, , N. Italy— lS6d. St. Catherine receiviilg tlie Sacrament ; Fiasella, Bishop Sauli going in Pro- cession. A fine view of Genoa is obtained from the top of the cupola, which is ascended with tolerable ease. Oppo- site to the church is a noble bridge or viaduct, also built by the munificence of the Saulis, begun 1718, by an architect named Langlade. It joins two hills, crossing the street and houses below. Some of these houses are seven stories liigh (adding to the reminiscence which the bridge gives of Edinburgh) ; the bridge rises far above their roofs, and affords a cool and pleasant evening walk» Santa Maria di Castello, supposed to be built on the site of a temple of Dianaj The present church is not very ancient : some parts of it may go back as far as 1350. The interior consists of a hand- some nave, separated from the aisles by 6 round arches, supported by granite columns with Corinthian and composite capitals, and which formed a part of some Roman edifice, possibly of the Temple of Diana. There are some good paintings of the Genoese school here. In the 2nd chapel on the rt. a curious specimen of the 15th centy., representing the Annuncia- tion, with a number of quaint figures in the costume of his time ; and an Adoration of the Virgin ; — a picture, in 6 compartments, of the 14tli centy., the Annunciation, with Saints on either side. The choir contains tombs of the Giustinianis, great protectors of this chui^ch and convent, belonging to the order of St. Dominick. In the adjoin- ing cloister are some early frescoes, one signed by a certain Justus deAllamagna, in 1451. Santa Maria in Via Lata, on the hill beyond the Ch. of Carignano, is a very old church, now desecrated, the walls being of alternate courses of black and white marble. It is chiefly inter- esting as having belonged to the Eies- chis, and annexed to their palace, which covered a large space hereabouts, and which was razed after the unsuccessful attempt of Luca Fieschi, who in the 122 Eo ute 13. — Genoa : Churches 4 Sect. II. celebrated conspiracy which bears his name here assembled his followers in 1336, to subvert the power of the Do- rias. San^ Matteo. This interesting httle ch., which has always remained under the patronage of the Dorias, was found- ed in 1125 by Martino D., an ecclesi- astic of the family : the front, which dates from 1278, is a good specimen of Grenoese- Gothic, formed of alternate courses of black and white marble.* Five of the white courses bear inscrip- tions relating to the achievements of the family. The pilasters at either extremity of the fagade, and on each side of the entrance, support the shields of Genoa an(i of the Dorias, the red cross on a white ground and an eagle erect. The uppermost of the inscrip- tions commemorates the great naval victory of Scorzola, September 7, 1298, over the Venetian fleet, commanded by Andrea Dandolo, by the Genoese, under Lamba Doria, both being amongst the most honoured names in the military annals of Italy. In the ancient Roman urn above, with bas-reliefs of children and dead animals, were deposited the remains of Lamba Doria, who died in 1323. Above the prmcipal door of the ch. is one of the very few mosaics still existing in Genoa. It is in the ancient Greek style. The interior was splendidly reconstructed at the expense of the great Andrea Doria ; it consists of a small nave and aisles, separated by 5 arches supported by composite columns of white marble : behind the altar is a small choir with a good piet^ and samts sculptured by MontorsoU, who remodelled the ch. ; and on each side, chapels containing sepulchral urns of the Dorias, and the remains of Saints Maurus, Eleuterius, and Maximus, brought here from Istria by Pagano Doria. In the crypt beneath the high altar is the tomb of Andrea Doria, * This mode of construction was confined at Genoa to public edifices and to buildings erected by the Commune. The four great families of Doria, Grimaldi, Spinola, and Fieschi, alone among the patricians, had the privilege of em- ploying it. also by Montorsoli* In the adjoining cloister, erected in the early part of the 14th century, have been of late arranged several sepulchral inscriptions of the Doria family, brought from the suppressed church of S. Dominick, and others ; and all that remained of the two colossal statues of Gianetto Doria, who commanded at Lepanto, and of another member of the family, which formerly stood before the Ducal palace, and which were erected there in 1577 by the Senate : they were thrown down and mutilated by the revolutionary rabble in 1797. In the adjoining Piazza are some curious specimens of domestic architecture — three palaces of the 15th century, over the door of one of which is an inscription stating that it was given to Andrea Doria by the Republic : Senat. Cons. Andrecc de Oria Patrice lAheratori Mu- nus Publicum. Here A. Doria lived — it was in the small square on which it opens that he assembled his fellow- citizens in 1528, to consult on the means for driving off the French, by whom Genoa was then beseiged; it was in the ch. of S. Matteo that Doria deposited the sword sent to him in 1535, by Paul III., for the services he had rendered in the cause of the Church. The door-sides of the Casa Doria have some beautifully sculptured arabesques. Over the door of one of the neigh- bouring palaces is a curious bas-rehef of the combat of St. George and the Dragon, in presence of the Virgin and of a Doge of Genoa ; and on the third a long Gothic inscription relative to the victories gained by one of the Doria family, to whom it belonged. Near the ch. of S. Matteo are the Industrial Schools (Scuola Techniche), the staircase leading to which is deco- rated with encaustic tiles, probably brought from Spain. San' Siro. The most ancient Chris- tian foundation in Genoa, and asso- ciated with important events in its history. It was originally the cathe- dral, under the title of the Basilica dei JDodici Apostolij but San' Siro, or EiyiEKA. Hoate IS. — Genoa: Churches; Alhergo de' Poveri. 123 Cyrus, an ancient bishop, became its patron ; in 904 the episcopal throne was translated to St. Lorenzo. In this church the assemblies of the people were held. Here GugUelmo Bocca- ncgra was proclaimed Capitano del Popolo in 1257. Hitherto the powers of government, and its profits and pleasm'es also, had been wholly en- ioyed by the aristocracy. This revo- lution fii'st broke down the barrier ; ' and although the office of Capitano del Popolo did not continue perma- \ nent, it prepared the way for the great i changes which the constitution after- i wards sustained. Here, in 1339, Si- i mone Boccanegra was created the ' first Doge of Genoa, amidst cries of ; ^^ Jlva il popolo r^ marking the influ- 1 ence by which he had been raised. His election was, in fact, the crisis of an- other revolution : the government was : completely transferred from the nobles ( to the people. All traces of the ori- : ginal building are destroyed, or con- j cealed by recent adjuncts and recon- i structions. The roof is painted by Car- l loni. This Carloni was born at Genoa in 1594, and died at an advanced age. Some of the other paintings are — JBer- nardo Castello, the Saviour disputing in the Temple ; Pomarancio^ the Ador- ation of the Shepherds ; Castello, Saint Catherine of Sienna. St. Stefano delta Fort a, in the Piazza S, Stefano, at the end of the Strada Giulia, a veiy ancient edifice ; the pre- sent building does not date later than tlic 13th century. The only object worth notice in the interior is the ]ncture, over the high altar, of the •tyrdom of the patron Saint, con- red by some to be the joint produc- tion of Raphael and Giiitio Romano: 1 Rapliael it is said made the design for I the wliole, and finished the upper part, i and Giuho Romano executed the re- mainder after his deatli. Others at- tribute the whole to the latter. In its present position (it is concealed by an unsightly tabernacle and candle- sticks) the unbounded praise accorded to this picture will to many persons appear extravagant. It was sent to Paris by Napoleon, and the head of the saint and other parts were there retouched by Girodet. The fee de- manded for showing it is 1 fr. The gveat Alberto de^ Poveri is to the N. of the city, just outside the Porta Carbonara. It was founded in 1564, by Emanuel Brignole, and unites the care of the poor within its walls to the administration of many charitable en- dowments for their benefit. Thus, for example, the girls who marry out of the hospital receive a decent dowry. Tlie house is very clean, and the pro- portion of deaths remarkably small. It is a stately palace, extending above 560 feet each way, and enclosing four courts, each about 170 feet square. The ranges of buildings, dividing the courts, form a cross, in the middle of which is the chapel, or at least the altar ; the different inmates occupying the arms di^^ng the time of public service. It boasts a Pieta of Michael Angelo. In the chapel is also a statue of the Virgin ascending to heaven, by Puget, one of his best works. This establish- ment will contain 2200 persons. The Ospedale di Pammatone stands on the W. side of the public promanade of the Acquasola. It was originally a private foundation by Bartolomeo del Bosco, a Doctor of Laws, 1430 ; and was built from the designs of An- drea Orsolini. It is a large building, and contains statues of benefactors of the establishment. It has within its walls, on an average, 1000 patients and 3000 foundlings, and is open to the sick of all nations. The Institution for the Deaf and Dumb (Sordi Muti\ founded by Ottavio Assarotti, a poor monk, in 1801, is celebrated in Italy. The hospital for the insane, or Regio Mancicomio. situated outside of the Porta Romana, is a very extensive foundation recently erected, consisting of six wings converging towards a central edifice ; it is said to be very well conducted, and contains 700 patients. G 2 124 Route \^,—Gemd: Hospitats ; Theatres; Academy. Sect. 11. In and about Genoa tliere are as many as 15 Conservatorie. Tliej are all in- tended for females, and all are religions foundations, and regulated according to the monastic system, though the inmates do not take vows. Some are houses of refuge for tlie immarried ; some penitentiaries for those who wish to abandon their evil courses ; some are schools for the higher branches of education; some asylums for girls who are either orphans or the cluldi'en of parents unable to maintain them. Of these, the largest is that of the Fiescldne^ founded in 1762 by Domenico JFieschi, for orphan gu^ls, natives of Genoa, and which now contains about 250 inmates : they are employed upon various light works, such as lace and embroidery, but principally in the manufactm^e of artificial flowers. Half the profits be- long to the workers; and with these they are often enabled, not only to relieve then* relations, but even to accumulate a small do^A^y. The situfl- tion of the house, to which large gar- dens are annexed, is very beautiful. The whole establishment is conducted kindly and affectionately, imder the patronage of the descendants of the family. Theatres. — The Teatro Carlo Felice is the principal theatre, "and is an ele- gant structvu'e. It was opened in 1828, and ranks the third in size in Italy, the Scala at Milan and the S. Carlo at Kaples alone being larger. It is open for operas and ballets dm^mg the car- nival and spring seasons, for the opera buffa in the autumn, and for the re- gular drama in the summer and the early part of December. The Teatro JPaganini or of Sanf Agostino is open during the carnival for the regular drama, the Teatro Colombo for Italian comedy, and the Teatro Apollo^ where a French company generally perform during the winter : the two latter houses are near the Porta dell' Arco. The Accademia Ligustica delle 'Belle Arti was founded by private munifi- cence, having been instituted by the Doria family. The society consists of protettori, or subscribing patrons, and of working academicians. It is situated in a large building in the Piazza di Carlo Felice, of which it forms one of the sides, near the theatre, and con- tains numerous schools in the different departments of art, resorted to by a large body of pupils ; it has contributed in improving not only the designs used in manufactures, but the architectm'e employed in the numerous recent build- ings erected throughout the city. At- tached to the schools of painting is a collection of pictures, mostly by emi- nent artists of the Genoese school — An- saldo, the Fiolas, Fiasella^ de Ferrari, Benedetto JStrozzi, Luca Camhiaso, &c. ; and a large series of casts from the finest antique sculptures. On the stairs leading to the Accademia are four fine columns of Porto Venere marble, from tlie suppressed church of San Domenico. The Public Library, on the first floor of the same building, has been formed out of various collections be- queathed to the town and to the king, and made over by him to the munici- paHty, who very liberally provide for its support. It contains nearly 50,000 vols. ; and nowhere does there exist a library opened with such liberahty, — in summer from 7 A.M. to 10 p.m., in winter from 8 to ].l. Its chief merit is to contain the most useful modern works. It is much frequented in the evenings. Palazzo Ducale. The inteHor of the principal range of the buildings which contained the hall of the senate and the state apartments, was destroyed by fire in 1777. The present interior was reconstructed by Carloni. The vestibule is supported by 80 columns of white marble : a fine staircase leads, on the rt. hand, to the apartments of the governor, on the 1, to the hall of the senate. The latter is decorated by paintings, not of a high order, repre- senting subjects connected with the history of Genoa. Of these, the best are copies from pictures of Solimena, that existed before the fire, the depo- BrviERA. Boute 13. — Genoa : Ducal Palace; Strada degli Orefici, 125 sition of the relics of St. John the Baptist, and the discovery of America by Columbus. There is also a large picture by I. David, representing the Battle of Meloria. The hall also con- tained statues of. the great men of Ghnoa. These Avere destroyed by the re- publicans of 1797 ; and upon occasion of the fete given to ]N'apoleon as the restorer of the liberties of Italy, their places were supplied by statues of straw and wicker-work, coated with plaster of Paris, which still remain. This building was formerly the re- sidence of the Doges of the repubhc, who lield office for two years ; it has been recently made over by the City to the Grovernment. The front is now well laid open, and the space converted into an open piazza. The palace now contains the law-courts, and several other offices connected with the public administration. The great dun- geon tower, with its grated windows, is the only part of the residence of the Doges of earher times that now re- mains. The Archiepiscopal Palace has some good frescoes by X. Camhiaso. In the Land Arsenal, . near the Piazza d' Acquaverde, are many curious objects. These were formerly deposited in the I^ucal Palace, with others which were stolen or dispersed in 1797 : the residue was here collected. A rostrum of an ancient galley, some say Roman, others Carthaginian, found in the port ; bnt, though its origin may be uncer- tain, its antiquity and value are un- doubted. A cannon of wood bound round with iron, said to have been employed by the Venetians in the de- fence of Chioggia, when attacked by the Genoese fleet. A good store of Iberts, partizans, and other weapons, I my of unusual forms. The Loggia de Banchi or Bolsa (in the Piazza de' Banchi) is an interesting monument of the ancient commercial splendour of Genoa. It consists of a large hall, the sides of which are sup- ported by arches, now glazed in, built by Galeazzo Alessi (1570-1596), being about 110 feet ii\ length and 60 in breadth. The roof is skilfully con- structed, the tie-beams being concealed in the concave of the ceiling ; and the quantity of wall upon which the roof rests is so small, that the whole is con- sidered as a very bold effort in con- struction. This Loggia is now used as the exchange, where the merchants meet for business. The fine statue erected in it to Count Cavour is by the celebrated Swiss sculptor Vela. In front is the place of meeting of the com and oil merchants, a very ani- mated scene during the hours of busi- ness. Hard by is the Strada degli Orefici (Goldsmiths' Street), being filled with the shops of that trade. Before the revolution they formed a guild or company, possessing many privileges and possessions, aU of which are lost. One rehc they yet preserve — a pic- ture of the SoIt/ Family, with the addition of St. Eloy, the patron saint of the smiths' craft, whether in gold, silver, or iron. It is upon stone, a tablet framed and glazed, in the middle of the goldsmiths' street, and sur- mounted by a vrr ought canopy. This picture, attributed to Fellegrino Fiola, is of a deep and harmonious colom% and beautifully dravra. It is said that Pellegrino was a pupil- of Castello ; that he was only 22 years of age when he painted this picture, and that it excited so much envy on the part of the master, that he caused liis pupil to be assassinated. Others say that Pelle- grino was assassinated by Giovan' Ba- tista Carloni. Be this as it may, two things are certain — his violent death at an early age, and the extraordinary rarity and excellence of Ids paintings. It is impossible, says Lanzi, to define the style of the artist so early cut off; he was yet only a student, and a stu- dent employed in imitating the best models, preferring those which had most grace. He tried several manners, and worked in all of them with sur- passing taste and care. When Napo- leon was here, he desired much to re- move this picture to the Louvre. " We I cannot oppose you by force," said the 126 Route IS .—Genoa : Banco di San Giorgu Sect. II. smiths, "but we wiU never sur- render it ;" and accordingly he yielded, and the picture remains. The goldsmiths of Genoa excel in a beautiful fine filigree, either of gold or silver, which they work into bunches of flowers, butterflies, and other ar- ticles, principally designed for female ornaments. They sell them by weight, at a price of about 15 per cent, above the value of the metal. These orna- ments are very pretty, and are liardly to be procured out of Grenoa; but the workmanship is scarcely equal to that of Malta, or of Cuttack in Bengal. They may be passed at the French custom-house at a small duty. The Compera^OY Banco di San G^lorgio (Bank of St. Greorge), of which the hall is now degraded into a large hall of the custom-house, was the most ancient establishment of this description in Europe. It was a combination, so to speak, of tlie Bank of England and the East India Company, being both a banking and a trading company. The colonies of Kaffa in the Crimea, several ports in Asia Minor, and also Corsica, were under its admi- nistration, and the latter island is still studded with towers and block- houses upon which the arms of the Bank are engraved. The Bank was managed with great ability and in- tegrity; and most of the charitable and public institutions had their funds placed here at interest, which was con- sidered, and justly, as a most secure investment. The Erench passed the sponge over the accounts, and ruined the individuals and the communities. The Bank of St. Greorge was founded in 1346, in consequence of the trouble wliicli the republic experienced from the exiled nobles who had been ex- pelled from the city. Fortifying themselves at Monaco, they collected a numerous train of others discon- tented and banished, having nothing to lose and nothmg to fear. They plun- dered the shores of the republic ; and this marauding warfare became so pro- fitable, that they were enabled to fit up ^ fleet of 30 galleys, with crews amount- ing to upwards of 20,000 men. The republic, not having the means of meeting the expenses of resisting them, negotiated with the richest merchants for a loan, which was funded ; that is to say, the revenues of the state were permanently pledged for the re-pay- ment. With the money so raised the repubhc fitted out a fleet. The insurgents abandoned their position; and the result is cm'iously connected with Enghsh history. Many of them entered the service of Philippe de Ya- lois ; and they were the Grenoese cross- bow men engaged in the battle of Crecy, whose rout so greatly contributed to the accomplislnnent of the victory by the English. " Genova la Superba" appears most proudly in this old hall. All around are the statues of the nobles and citi- zens whose munificence and charities are here commemorated — the Spinolas, the Dorias, Grimaldis, Fieschis, and otliers, whose names are so familiar in the annals of the republic. The statues are in two ranges, the uppermost stand- ing, the lower sitting, all larger than life ; most of them are of an earlier date than- the 17th century, some of tlie 15th, and a few as late as the 18th; rendering the edifice one of the finest monumental halls that can be imagined. The ample, flowing dress of the times contributes to this magnificent effect, combined with the truth and simplicity of the attitudes. Beneath each statue is a tablet or in- scription, recounting the actions of those whom they commemorate : — one had founded an hospital ; another had bought off* a tax upon provisions which pressed heavily upon the poor ; another had left revenues for endowing poor maidens. In the smaller apartments adjoining are other statues of the same description, and some curious ancient, though barbarous, pictm^es of St. George. In the great hall is a Ma- donna with St. George, by Domenico Piola. On the exterior of the Dogana, fronted by three Gothic arches, hung links of the chams of the Porto Riviera. Houte 13, — Genoa: Promenades; Cemetery. 127 Pisano, long suspended here as tro- phies, but now restored to Pisa smce tlie union of that city to the same ( nistitutional monarchy. All tliis J '>rtion of the city is one continued Tiionument of tlie ancient Genoese com- iiiorce. The lofty houses are supported hv massive, crypt -Uke arches and vaulted apartments ; on the other side ]- the rampart of the i)ort. Puhlic Promenades. — The principal i- tlie Acquasola, a large esplanade, on the old fortifications, the favourite rosort of the Genoese of all classes. The gardens are handsomely planted and laid out. On certain days of the •week the military bands play here. The view from the Acquasola, over the valley of the Bisagno and the moun- tains E. of the city, is very fine. Ad- joining the Promenade of the Acquasola IS the Villa de Negri, lately purchased by the municipality, and added to the public walks. From its more elevated })osition, it enjoys a still finer and more extensive view. It has been very hand- somely laid out and planted, and tha Casino in the centre rebuilt and laid out for a museum, in which have been placed several collections given to the city, amongst others the geological one of the eminent geologist the late Marques Lorenzo Paieto, the zoological one of the Marques Giacomo Doria, ; and the miscellaneous one of the late Duke of Genoa, brother of the present king. There are some handsome gardens ^vithm the walls, — the Zerbino, near the Convent of the Fieschine ; the Peschiere, near the Deaf and Dumb Asylum ; and La ScogUetta, near the Rly, station. ^[onument to Columbus. — A hand- " monument to the great navigator, 111 Genoa claims as one of her sons, lias been erected in the Piazza di Acqua 1 Verde, opposite the entrance to tlie Rly. Stat , so as to attract the first atten- tion of the traveller arriving from beyond the Alps and Apennines ; it consists of a huge square pediment, at the corners of which are seated figures pf Geography, Law, Justice, and Reli- gion ; higher up is a circular pedestal decorated with prows of galleys, and on which stands a marble group of Co- lumbus and an American female. On the pediment below are four bas-reliefs, representing as many events in the Ufe of Columbus. When built round, this square will be very beautiful ; at present the monument of Columbus does not stand in the centre. The Puhlic Cemetery, or Campo Santo, will be well worth a visit ; it is situated about two miles from the town, in the valley of the Bisagno, and on the declivity of the hill at the foot of \^liich the village of Stiglieno is situ- ated. It consists of a large quadrilateral, surrounded by terraces, in which are arranged the vaults and monuments of the wealthy classes ; in the centre is a fine cu'cular chapel, approached by a double flight of steps, and having in front a perestal of 6 Doric columns. The dome of the church is supported by 16 Doric columns of dark Corsican marble on each side, and terraced with vaults ; and on the hill above are nu- merous sepulchral monaments. Com- menced in 1838, from the designs of the Genoese architect Resasco, it con- tains numerous good specimens of monumental sculpture by the most celebrated Genoese artists, Cevasco, Varni, Gaggini, Brussoli, Uuhetto, &c. The Campo Santo is open daily to visitors. There is a legal tariff for carriages going and returning from Genoa. Beyond the Bisagno torrent, and close to the sea, is the Government yard, where ships of war are built. The Genoese, or Ligurians, from the time of Vu-gil to Dante, and smce, have been the subject of vituperation. " Ahi Genovesi, uomini diversi D' ogni costume, e pieni d' ogni magagna ; I'erche non siete voi del mondo spersi .?" Inferno., xxxiii. 150—154. * Ah Genoese, of every grace devoid I So full of all malevolence and gfuile, Why are ye not at one fell swoop destroy'd V Wright's Translation of Dante . But those who have resided here speak well of them now; and the splendid 128 Route 14. — Genoa to SQrzana, Sect. II. memorials of the charity of past gene- rations raise a strong presumption in their favour, and against the poet's 9.ppreQiation of their character. KOUTE 14. GENOA TO SAEZANA, BY THE EIYIEEA DI LEVANTE. Genoa to kil. I kil. Sturla ... 4 I Zoagli ... 31 Quinto ... 7 I Chiavari ... 36 Nervi ... 9 I Sestri .... 45 Pieve di Sori . 13 Bracco ... 56 Kecco ... 18 Mattarana . . 69 Camogli ... 20 Borghetto . . 80 S. Margherita . 25 Spezia . . . .104 Hapallo (Rail.) 28 Sarzana . . .120 120 kilometres=75 miles. A Rly. is in progress from Grenoa to Sarzana, but the only parts of it opened are the portion as far as Chiavari and Sestri and beyond Spezia; the re- mainder will scarcely be completed before 1870. There are post-horse stations on the road beyond Sestri. Diligences leave Chiavari on the arrival of all the rly. trains from Genoa, and reach Spezia in time for the rly. trains to Pisa, Lucca, Florence, Leg- horn, and Eome. The journey is per- formed from rly. stat. to stat. in 9 hrs. Steamers of the Peirano-Danovaro Company from Spezia every evening at 7, arriving about 1 o'clock a.m., will be the easiest way of reaching the great naval arsenal of Italy, from which the Ely. in the direction of Pisa, Leghorn, and Florence, and Southern Italy gene- rally, commences. This beautiful road, which, besides its connection with the preceding route, is one of the great high roads to Tus- cany from Turin and Milan, passes through a larger proportion of moun- tainous scenery than that of the Riviera di Ponente, and therefore has less of a southern aspect, nor is it so thickly studded with those picturesque towns and villages which adorn the shore be- tween Nice and Grenoa ; but it has the ^ame beauties of wide- spreading views over the loveliest land and water ; it is also finely indented by gulfs and bays, affording good anchorage for the many vessels which enhven the briUiant sea. The road, which is excellent, was begun by the French, and completed by the Sardinian Grovernment. Be- fore it was made, Genoa was, in great measure, deprived of direct com- munication with Tuscany, which per- haps it was neither the wish nor the interest of the earlier governments to encourage. The best stopping-places for persons traveUing will be — in sum- mer, leaving Genoa early, La Spezia: in winter, 1st day, Sestri ; 2nd day, La Spezia; 3rd day, Lucca, Pisa, or Florence. The carriage-road begins to ascend soon after quitting Genoa ; and, from the first summit, the view of the city and the white houses dotted around and ascending the hill- sides is as lovely a sight as can be seen. Hedges of the aloe mix with vines, olives, and fig and orange trees. Crossing the Bisagno torrent, we arrive at San^ Martino d^Alharo^ from where the road descends and runs near the shore. This town may be considered as a suburb of Genoa. The Colle d'Alharo is one of the most beautiful spots. Here are some magnificent villas ; the principal is the ViUa Cam- biaso, built by Alessio (1557), it is said, from the designs of Michael An- gelo. It has frescoes by Taormino^ re- presenting the triumphs of Alexander Farnese, Prince of Parma, and two by Fierino del Vaga^ Night and Day. The views from Albaro, looking over Genoa, are particularly beautiful. The Villa dell Paradiso is in a fine situation. Cross the Sturla torrent before reaching 6 kil. Quarto Stat., and 1 m. beyond Quinto. The names of these villages, which follow in succession, bespeak their Roman origin, — "ad quartum," " ad quintum :" they were probably Roman stations. Quinto is also one of the claimants for the honour of the birthplace of Columbus. 2 kil. i^ervi (Inn : La Pension An- Riviera. Houte 14. — Eecco—Sta, Margherita-^Rapallo, 129 glaise ; its inmates enjoy the use of the gardens of the Marquis Gropallo), gay with its bright painted houses. The gardens aroimd are peeuharly luxui'iant and fragi'ant. The eh. of San' Siro has much gilding and some tolerable paint- ings. An old palaee, now m ruins, with decaying frescoes on the walls, is a pic- tiu'esque object. There are several hand- some villas here, that of the Gropallo family in particidar. A large house near tliis villa has been fitted up, with the ob- ject of accommodating persons seeking a mild winter residence ; the estabhsh- ment is under the superintendence of Dr. MiUingen, the Enghsh physician at Grenoa, with whom arrangements can be made for Uving enpension. Beyond Kervi is the village of Bogliase. The village and bridge of Sori (a fine arch) are passed about 2 miles before arriv- ing at 9 kil. Recco Stat. (Inn tolerable.) Rather a handsome little town. The white houses and the high campanile of the chm'ch, backed by the hilly promon- tory of Porto Fino, which, stretching into the sea, fonns the western shore of the bay of Kapallo, have a charming effect. Leaving Eecco, the road traverses Camogli, and then ascends for about 1 mile, at the culminating point of which it traverses the tunnel of La Ruta^dhout 120 yards in length, cut through the rock. Here are tliree small Inns, the Hotel de Londres, the Hotel della Gran Bretagna, and the Hotel d' Italic. The descent from the tunnel to Rapallo is very beautiful, and, for a short time, chesnuts take the place of ohves, figs, and vines. The cliffs, of hard breccia, offer a great number of pic- turesque points of view ; and the short trip by water round the promontory, from Recco to Rapallo, has much interest, and can be made easily in a summer's day. Recco or Camogli will be the best place to start from, and boats may be obtained at both. [At a short distance from Recco is the little active fishing-town of Ca- mogli. The church is gaily decorated by the piety of the seamen. 3 m. farther S. is the Punt a delle Chiappe, above which rises the hill of the Tele- grafoy the highest point of the pro- montory (2000 ft. above the sea). 3 m. from the Cape is San^ Frutuoso, a monastery in a very picturesque soHtary site, near the sea, at the opening of a deep ravine, and at the S. extremity of the promontory. Pahns flourish amongst the surrounding rocks ; and it is supposed that they were introduced at a very early period by the monks. The church was under the special patronage of the Dorias ; and in a species of sepulchral chapel in the cloister are some good Gothic tombs of that family. 5 m. farther E. is the extreme S.E. headland, behind which, in a small landlocked bay, is the fishing-hamlet of Porto Fino, which gives its name to the whole promon- tory ; and 1 m. N. of which is Cervara, anciently Sylvana, a de- serted convent, not far from the shore. Here Francis I., prisoner after the battle of Pavia, having been previ- ously brought to Genoa, was detained until the arrival of the galleys which conveyed him to Spain. 5 kil, Santa MargJierita Stat.^ a^ pleasing village close to the shore. The Genoese coral fishery is principally car- ried on by feluccas fitted out in this neighboui'hood. There is a mule-path from Sta. Margheritato Rapallo. This completes the tour of the peninsula.] We now rejoin the high road, on which is San' Lorenzo della Costa^ near the descent after quitting the tunnel. The cliurch contains a folding altarpiece, or tryptich, attributed to Luca cZ' Olanda^ representing the Marriage of Cana, the Martyrdom of St. Andi*ew, and the raising of Lazarus. 3 kil. Rapallo Stat. {Inn: Albergo della Posta), an active and flourishing town of 9500 Inhab. It spreads beau- tifully along the shores of the bay, set off by the churches and a peculiarly lofty and slender campanile of many open stories. The houses are chiefly on arcades. On the sea-shore is a pic- turesque tower, similar to those on the Riviera di Ponente. Probably it Gk 3 130 Route 14:.—Cliiavaru Sect. II. was erected after the town had been plundered by the celebrated corsair Dragutte, the scourge and terror of Italy and Spain, who landing here in the night of 6th July, 1549, surprised and sacked the town and carried off a great number of captives. The principal church is collegiate ; it contains some curious inscriptions — one supposed to be a dedication of the place by the Emperor Lewis II. in 856. Here are also some paintings. Lace is manufactured here. E-apallo is celebrated for a festival in honour of the Madonna, which con- tinues during the first three days of July. The processions last through- out the whole night ; the illuminations extend not only tlirough the town, but along the coast for an extent of 3 or 4 miles, the lamps being hung upon stakes fixed into the sands. In the vicinity of RapaUo is the chapel of Montalegro^ at the dis- tance of about an hour's walk : most pleasantly situated upon a hill, sur- rounded by fine mountain scenery. It was founded about 1557, in honour of a painting cast on shore from a shipwrecked vessel, and to whicli the superstition of the Rappallese at- tributed miraculous powers. The pic- ture is of Greek workmanship, and execrable as a work of art. The carriage-road from Rapallo to Chiavari is exceedingly varied ; some- times we mount long rocky heights, covered with arbutus and frequent stone pines. Many apparently good and pic- turesque houses are scattered high up on the hill- sides, where there is no visible road to them from below. Churches, with white and often elegant campaniles, are frequent all along the road. Towards the evening these numerous churches add perhaps more to the interest of the landscape than at any other time, the bells sounding and the Kght streaming through the windows. Sometimes we are many hundred feet above the level of the Mediterranean, looking down upon its blue waters ; sometimes you pass vast surfaces of rock sloping down to the sea with as even a surface as a | revetement wall ; and sometimes, as at Rapallo, you are on the very level of the shore. There are two short tunnels or galleries near the top of the ascent between Eapallo and Chiavari. In one of the beautiful nooks lies a most pic- turesquely situated village, with its white tall houses in the midst of olive-groves. The line of rly. passes at a much lower level, near the sea-shore, by which much of the fine scenery described above is lost. 3 kil. Zoagli Stat. About a mile before reaching Chiavari, the road descends into the plain extending to Sestri, and in the midst of which is situated 8 kil. Chiavari Stat. {Inns : La Posta ; La Fenice.) The chief city of the province, with more than 10,000 Inhab., situated in the centre of the bay. It is one of the most considerable towns of the ancient Genoese territory. It has the aspect of an old Italian town ; the houses generally are built on open arcades which skirt the narrow streets ; the arches are pointed and circular, and with capitals which would puzzle an architect by their similarity to our early Norman, but which are probably not older than the 13th centy. There are several fine churches. In that of San^ Francesco is a painting by Va- sallo, although attributed to Velasquez, of a miracle wrought for the patron saint — an angel, at his prayer, causing water to flow from the rock. This pic- ture was removed by the Trench to the Louvre. Another picture with St. Francis in the centre, and the history of his life in small compartments around, is curious. The Madonna deV Orto^ the princi- pal church, is annexed to the ecclesias- tical seminary. The cupola was shat- tered by lightning some years ago. The front is unfinished; the portico will be upon a magnificent scale, with columns six feet in diameter. It is said that the work will cost 700,000 francs. Old and picturesque towers are dotted about the town. The largest, a castle in fact, is now used for the offices of the municipality. Riviera. Route 14. — Sestri — Bracco, 131 There is the same hixuriant vegeta tion at Chiavavi as on otlier parts of tliis coast. The aloe, in particular, grows luxuriantly, even in the very sand of the shores ; and in some points of view, when they constitute the fore- gromid, and the fantastic, mosque-like cupolas of the churches are seen in the distance, the scene assumes almost an oriental character. This place is noted for the manufacture of furniture, and especially of handsome and very light chairs, made chiefly of cherry-wood, costing 10 or 12 fr. apiece. 2 m. beyond Chiavari runs the river Lavagnaro^ or " Flume di Lavagna^"" the 'Entella of ancient geographers. The Lavagnaro winds amongst agree- able groves, and the walks along its banks are pleasing. The vines throw their graceful festoons over poplars and mulberries. Along these banks is the path leading to the slate- quarries of Lavagna, which are worthy of a visit. It passes near to the Ch. of San Salvatore, founded by Innocent lY. (1243-1254), and completed by Adrian Y. Ascending further, we reach the slate- quarries, "f he quarries from which the slate is extracted, though not very picturesque in form or colour, are striking from their ex- tent. The laminated structure of the rock enables the workmen in some of these caverns to dispense with the pillars usually required in extensive excavations. The slate is of a good quality, and, if the workmen chose, slabs mJght be split of 10 or 12 ft. in length ; but, for convenience of car- riage, they split them in regular sizes, the largest being about 3 ft. by 4. An argument for the antiquity of the em- ployment of this material is found in the name of the Tegullii^ the Ligurian tribe who inhabited this part of the coast previous to the Roman conquest. There are other quarries between La- vagna and Sestri, but nearer the sea- shore. We now resume the main road to Lavagna, a thriving and cheerful town, with about 6500 Inhab. The road is bordered by the slate rock. A strange red palace, with bartizan towers, is here a conspicuous object. The prin- cipal church is amongst the most splendid on the Riviera di Levante. From the slates being found about the town, they are called in Italian pietre di Lavagna^ or simply Lavagne. From this place the celebrated family of the Fieschi derived their title of Count. Sestri di Levante^ a town on an isth- mus at the foot of a wooded pro- montory. {Inns : Hotel de 1' Europe, good : Albergo d'Inghilterra.) Sestri has the sea on either side, and the pro- montory is supposed to have been once an island. In the church of San Pietro is a painting attributed to Pierino del Vaga, a Holy Family. It is Kaf- faelesque in style. A more unques- tionable specimen of a good artist is the Descent of the Holy Grhost, by Fiasella^ in the church of the Nativity. The surrounding scenes are full of varied beauties. At the Hotel de I'Europe are machines for sea-bathing, for which Sestri is well suited, from its excellent beach and its delightful situation. Carriages and Diligences will be found at the Sestri Stat, for Spezzia, arriving in time for the rly. to Pisa and Florence. Soon after leaving Sestri the road, which runs inland, commences to ascend, the island-like promontory being left on the rt. hand. It first winds through hills of olive-trees, and in the clefts of which the myrtle grows wild. Hence many headlands stretching into the sea, and white houses and churches dotting the hills, are seen. The pass of Bracco, however, leads above fig-trees and vines, and even above chesnuts and fir-trees ; and the finely made road, winding amongst summits of rocks scantily covered with grass, continues to ascend to 20 kil. Bracco. (From Chiavari to Bracco an extra horse all the year.) The post-house (1350 ft. above the sea) is placed in a comparatively fertile nook, screened by still higher sum- mits, and looking down a long green vista on the blue sea far below. The 132 Route 14. — Mattarana — Levanto, Sect. II. riew is exceedingly fine, embracing the bay of Moneglia, Sestri, and its high promontory, and the Bay of Rapallo, with the headland of Porto Fino be- yond. The ascent still continues by a good and well-traced road for 3 or 4 m. beyond the Post-house of Bracco, until it attains an elevation of about 2100 ft. above the sea, at the Col or Pass of Yelva : here all cultivation nearly ceases ; the views both towards the sea and inland are very fine from this elevation ; a well-managed descent leads from the Pass to Matarana. [The geologist will find much to in- terest him in this part of his journey, between Sestri and the Yelva Pass, where he will be able to examine one of the finest eruptions of serpentine in Italy. On the ascent the serpentine may be seen piercing through the beds of calcareous slate, of the age of our British chalk. Some good sections may be observed near the pass : in the cut- tings made for the post-road the ser- pentine and diallage rocks will be seen not only forming veins or dykes in the limestone, but in each other : the country E, of the Yelva Pass is cut into deep ravines, and wherever the serpentine shows itself it is character- ized by the bareness and desolation so characteristic of this rock in every part of the world.] 12 kil. Mattarana is a poor village, 1600 ft. above the sea. (From Bracco to Matarana an extra horse all the year.) The women here wear their hair in nets, hanging on their backs, and often a folded cloth on their heads, which at Spezia is super- seded by a little straw hat, placed on the top of the head, and only used as an ornament. The road winds along the steep sides of the valley on descending from Matarana, the hills around being thinly clad with chesnut- trees ; a low pass near the village of Beruviana (where there is an interesting con- tact of the serpentine and secondary strata) leads into the ravine, near which, at its junction with the Yara,is situated the village of Borghetto. Before reach- ing Borghetto is Pugliasca, where there is a fair Inn. 12 kil. Borghetto (between Matta- rana and Borghetto an extra horse both ways all the year). There is a fair Inn (Hotel de I'Europe) at the neigh- bouring village of Pogliano. The road hence lies for a time near the bed of the Vara^ a tributary of the Magra, and, after ascending the Recco torrent to San Benedetto, or La Foce di Spezia, a long descent, during which the traveller will enjoy many beautiful peeps over the subjacent bay and the distant moimtains of Carara, leads to 23 kil. La Spezia Stat. [The coast-road from Sestri to La Spezia possesses equal interest, but is a mere mule-path ; indeed the principal means of communication between the different places is by sea. The rly. will nearly follow the coast-line from Sestri, with stations at the following places, Moneglia^ sb town of about 2000 Inhab., with remains of its mediaeval fortification^ and battlemented wall on the hill to the W. Farther on are the towns of Leiva, Framura^ and Bona^ Levanto, 2b large but dirty town of 4600 Inhab., surrounded by over- hanging hills. To reach it in any car- riage you must go through Bracco. A road strikes off" to the rt. from the post- road to Spezia at La Baracca, the highest point of the mountain, half way between Bracco and Matarana. In the ch. of the Minor Friars is a painting attributed to Andrea del Castagno, one of the first who practised oil-paint- ing in Italy. The subject is St. G-eorge and the Dragon, and the action is that for which Pistrucci was so much criti- cised in his design on the sovereigns of G-eo. III. The spear is broken, and St. Greorge is despatching the monster with his sword. The picture was car- ried off* by the French, and the Louvre numbering is yet upon the frame. The principal churchy which was conse- BlVIEEA. Route 14. — Monterosso — Gulf of Spezia, 133 crated in 1463, is after the model of the cathedral of G-enoa; and is still a fine building, though sadly mo- dernised. Several of the houses bear marks of antiquity. A small district below the headlands of Mescolo and Montenero, belonging to five villages or communities, Monte Hosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola^ and Rio Mag- giore, known by the collective name of the Cinque Terre^ is remarkable for the beauty of the scenery and the primitive simphcity (at least in out- ward appearance) of its inhabitants. Much wine is grown here, the vine- yards in some places overhanging the sea. Tlie "vino amabile" of this district had anciently a very high character. From Yernazza came the Vernaccia, quoted by Boccaccio and Sacchetti as the very paragon of good liquor. The present growth, however, seems to have declined in quahty. Oranges and lemons grow here in great perfection ; and the fan-palm and the cactus opuntia flourish with tropical luxuriance. Monterosso. The church, built in 1307, is also after the Genoese model. Near Monterosso is the sanctuary of the Madonna di Soviore. The rock upon which it stands commands a most extensive prospect, reaching to the island of Corsica. The annual feast of the Yirgin, held on the 15th and 16th of August, is attended by great num- bers of country people from the ad- joining ports. The coast between the Capes of Monterosso and Porto Yenere is extremely bold and arid, without any place of importance.] Genoa to Spezia by Sea. — Leaving Genoa, the steamer runs along the coast, passing successively before S. Martino d' Albaro, Quarto, Quinto, and Nervi, almost touching the extreme point of the promontory of Porto Fino, from here crossing the wide bay of Rapallo and Chiavari, but at a considerable dis- tance from the shore, to the head-land of Sestri, from which running close in to the coast, passing before Moneglia, a very picturesque place as seen from seaward, and the towns constituting the Cinque Terre, to the entrance of the Gulf of Spezia ; stopping only to land and take in passengers at Levanto, beyond which we cross the opening of the valley of Monte Kossi, and then close to the Cape of Porto Yenere, be- tween wliich and the island of Palmaria is one of the priacipal entrances to the gulf; coasting its W. side for some miles as far as the anchorage-ground, at some distance from the landing- place. " Travellers have been hitherto exposed in coming from G-enoa to much annoyance from the custom-house offi- cials here, who insist on overhauhng their luggage, as if arriving from a foreign country. This is attended with much inconvenience, as passengers arrive by night, and there is no place under cover where this unne- cessary operation can be gone through, and with no small degree of incivility from the officers, such as I have not experienced elsewhere in Italy during an experience bordering on half a century."— j; B. P., Bee. 1867. Gulf of Spezia. By the ancients the G-ulf of Spezia was known as the Gulf of Luna. Its situation is accu- rately described by Strabo as a geo- grapher, and its chmate by Persius, who found a retreat on its shores. *' Mihi nunc Ligus ora Intepet, hybernatque meum mare ; qua latus ingens Dant scopuli, et multa littus se valle receptat. Lurtai portum eat operce cognoscere^ cives. Cor jubet hoc Enni, postquam destertuit esse Maeonides Quintus pavone ex Pythagoreo." Persius, vi. "To me, whilst tempests howl and billows rise, l^iguria's coast a warm retreat supplies ; Where the huge cliff's an ample front display. And. deep within, recedes the sheltering bay. 'r/ie port of Luna y friends f is wort/i your note. Thus in his sober moments Ennius wrote. When, all his dreams of transmigration past, Fie found himself plain Quintus at the last." Not less remarkable for its beauty than its security is this gulf, capable of containing all the fleets of Europe, and possessing from nature more ad- 134 Route 14. — Spezia : Neightourhood. Sect. II. vantages than the art of man could possibly bestow. Hence Napoleon, in the triumphant stage of his career, in- tended to render it the naval station of his empire in the Mediterranean. The plan, it is said, was frustrated by the intrigues of the French ministry, jealous of the injury which would have resulted to Toulon. The Italian Gro- vernment has undertaken very extensive works in the shape of docks, building- slips, &c., in order to remove the Naval Arsenal from G-enoa to La Spezia, in order to increase the accommodation for the rapidly increasing trade and ship- ping at the former place. La Spezia. Inns : Croce di Malta, on the shore, very fair, good and moderate (J. P., Nov., 1868) ; Hotel de la Yilla de Milan, with a fine view, inferior. Speziahas about 10,000 Inhab., and is situated in the deepest part of its bay, formed by the branches of the Apennines, advancing into the sea. There is some commerce in wine, and oil, which is produced abundantly from the ohve-clad hills around; also in thick slabs for paving-stones, like those of Grenoa. Oranges and lemons are exported to the ports of the Black Sea. Steamers ply daily between Spezia and Grenoa, employing about 6 hours, and starting in the evening. The Chur^'h of England service is celebrated every Sunday at 11, in a large room in one of the hotels. To those who are inclined to boat- ing amusement at Spezia, the brothers Moscova can be recommended as boat- men. They speak good Italian, and are intelligent and civil fellows. All around Spezia the country is beautiful. . It is studded with villas, each in its own thicket of luxu- riant foliage, intermingled with the olive and the vine. The town has not many prominent edifices. An ancient castle or tower, upon which the " biscia," or viper, of the Yiscontis is yet to be seen, and a round cita- del built by the Grenoese, are con- spicuous objects. The church has nothing remarkable. Whatever im- portance is possessed by Spezia results from the Genoese, who acquired it in 1276 by the then not unusual means of purchase from Nicolo de' Fieschi, Count of Lavagna. At a short dis- tance from the shore, to the S. of Spezia, the water of the gulf ofiers the remarkable phenomenon called the Polla, resulting from the gush of an abundant submarine freshwater spring, in reality a natural artesian well on a gigantic scale. It occupies a circular space 25 ft. in circumference, and sometimes rises above the adjoining sea-level. On the surface, at least, it is however not sufficiently fresh to be drinkable. Various contrivances have been suggested for conducting the water to the shore, or otherwise ena- bling vessels to fill then* casks. Neialibourhood of Spezia. — The beautiful scenery of the gulf of Spezia can be best seen by coasting along its shores in a boat. The road on the western side is very good, and afibrds a beautiful drive as far as Porto Venere. There are eight coves on the western side of the gulf. Beginning at the northern end near la Spezia, and pro- ceeding along the shore to the south- ward, they occur in the following order : — 1. That below the village of Marolla : 2. Casa di Mare, in the mouth of which rises the Folia spring : 3. Fezzano ; 4. Panigaglia, where Napoleon wished to make his dockyard : 5. Delle Grrazie : 6. Yarignano, where are, the quaran- tine ground for vessels arriving at Grenoa, an extensive lazaretto, and for- tifications : 7. La Castagna : 8. Forto Venere, 2200 Inhab., at the extremity of the S.W. promontory of the gulf of Spezia, one of the most picturesque places on the coast. The temple of Yenus, from which this town is sup- posed to derive its name, may, as antiquaries suppose, be traced in the dilapidated Gothic church of San Fietro, which boldly overlooks the sea, ElVIERA. Route 14. — Pahnaria — Lerici, 135 and from wliicli there is a magnificent view. Anotlier cliurch worth notice is that of San Lorenzo. The marble of the rock upon which Porto Yenere stands, black, witli gold-coloured veins, is ex- ceedingly beautiful. The Genoese ac- quired Porto Yenere in the year 1113, and encu'cled it with walls and towers, of which some portions remain. Four of the then most illustrious families of Grenoa — De' Negri, G-iustiniani, Dema- rini, and De' Fornari — were sent to rule the colony; and it is probable that they were accompanied by others of inferior rank, the dialect of the inhabitants being still pure Genoese, whilst in the vicinity another dialect is in use. Immediately opposite to Porto Ye- nere is the island of Palmaria, a mile across, and S. of it the two still smaller ones of Tino and Tinetto. In it are quarries of one of the most highly esteemed varieties of the Genoese marbles, called Portor^ which has bril- liant yellow veins on a deep black ground, like that of Porto Yenere. Louis XIY. caused a great deal of it to be worked for the decoration of Yersailles. The island commands fine views of the gulf of Spezia. Palmaria contains but two houses properly so called, which for several years have been tenanted by a Mr. Coppond of Nice, and an Englishman called Smith. There is a large circular fortress on the island. Upon Tino is a lighthouse. On the eastern side of the gulf is Zerici, anciently belonging to the Pi- sans, who fortified it against their rivals both of Lucca and of Genoa. Upon the principal gateway an inscrip- tion was affixed, remarkable as being one of the earliest examples known of the lapidary application of the " lingua volgare." It was to the following efiect :— " Scopa boca al Zenoese, Crepacuore al Porto Venerese, Streppa borsello al Lucchese." The wit, if it can be so called, is clumsy enough ; but it produced the efiect of annoying those against Avhom it was directed; and when the Genoese won Lerici in 1256, they carried off" the inscription in triumph ; but tliis was not enough : they replied in their turn by some strange rhyming Leo- nincs of rather a higher tone, which are yet existing upon one of the towers of the castle. This castle is pictu- resquely situated on an advancing point, which, sheltering the httle cove behind it, forms the harbour. It was at Lerici that Andrea Doria transferred his services from Francis I. to Charles Y., and thus gave that preponder- ance to the influence of the house of Austria in Italy which has afiected the political situation of the country up to the present time. Lerici is a very busy little town, offering in this respect a contrast with the stillness of Spezia, most of its inhabitants being engaged in shipbuilding ; it is now only second to Yarazze on the Ligu- rian coast for the building of merchant vessels. Near Lerici are extensive lead- works belonging to an English Com- pany, the ores being brought from Sar- dinia ; and farther north, the building- slips of the Royal Navy, at San Barto- lommeo. The terrors of the old corniclie roads from Lerici to Turbia are alluded to by Dante in his ' Purgatorio,' when, speaking of the difficulty of ascending the rock, he says, " Tra Lerici e Turbia la piu diserta La pill romita via e una scala Verso di quella, agevole e aperta." There is a good carriage-road connect- ing Lerici with that leading from la Spezia and Sarzana, and which falls into it near the bridge over the Magra. The extreme S.E. point of this beau- tiful gulf is Punta Bianca, or White Cape, being formed of white marble. A little within it is the Punta del Corvo or Cape Croio, although one side of it is white, being formed of the same lime- stone. The entrance to the gulf is guarded by forts, one upon the Punta di Santa Teresa, N.W. of Lerici, and 136 Route 14. — The Magra—Sarzana, ElVIERA. three on the W. side — the batteries of Palmaria, Pessino, and Santa Maria, near the Lazzaretto. A very beautiful chart of this great haven has been pubHshed by the French Depot de la Marine, and a Greological Map on a large Bcaleby Professor Capellini, of Bologna, a native of Spezia. The Ligurian commentators unani- mously maintain that the well-known description in Virgil of the gulf in which ^neas took refuge after the storm was suggested by the gulf of Spezia. But that description is closely imitated from the Odyssey, and ex- cepting the island, which Yirgil has added, the gulf of Spezia resembles Homer's harbour quite as much as Yirgil's. The two passages are ^n. i. 159-169, and Odyssey, N. 96-112. The carriage-road and rly. from Spe- zia run along a rising ground at, the head of the bay, ascending gradually for about 500 feet the ridge of hills that separates it from the valley of the Ma- gra, and descending to the river near the village of Vezzano^ which it foUows, on the rt. bank, to the bridge. The rly. on descending from the summit- level passes through two tunnels, the last before emerging on the Magra, which it crosses on the same bridge as the carriage-road, a very handsome construction of 12 arches, about 3 m. from the sea, and 2 before reaching the station at Sarzana, which is close to the town. A good carriage-road from the bridge to Lerici strikes oif to the rt. There is a steamer every night be- tween Spezia and Grenoa, performing the voyage in 6 hrs. ; fares, 10*20, 8-20, and 6-20 fr. Cross the Ma^ra, on a fine bridge of 12 arches : its construction was at- tended with much difficulty, owing to the instability of the foundation for the piers. The Magra, the Macra of the Romans, divided the territory of Li- guria from the Lunigiana, and the ancient Liguria from Etruria, as it did in more modern times the Grenoese from the Tuscan possessions. " Macra che per cammin corto Lo Genovese parte dal Toscano." Paradiso, ix. 89. 11 kil. Areola Stat. On the rt. of the Magra, just before crossing it, the town of Areola^ perched on a mountain, with a high tower and fine walls, and Treihiano, equally well situated a httle lower down, are attrac- tive objects to the traveller, if he has time to leave the beaten track. Above the W. bank of the Magra, and below Monte MarceUo, are the ruins of the monastery of La Santa Croce, where Dante sought a refuge, chiedendo pace, as he himself expressed, on his being expelled from Florence : it was also visited by Charles V. and Francis I. The province of the Lunigiana^ which we now enter, belonged geogra- phically to Tuscany, though politically separated from it. It was unequally divided between Sardinia, Massa, Car- rara and Parma ; but the character and lineage of the inhabitants continue to mark it as a distinct province, and to connect it with its ancient history. 15 kil. Sarzana {Inns: Albergo di Londra. The Hotel della Nuova York, on the ramparts. This city, which is the capital of the pro- vince of Levante, contains 9000 Inhab. It appears to have risen out of the decay of Luni, from which the bishopric was removed. Its ancient government, which subsisted till the French invasion, was rather remark- able, being vested in an assembly called the " Parlamento," not, like the Parlamento of Florence, a pri- mary or democratic meeting, but a mixed aristocratic representative body, composed of nobles, artificers, and peasants from the district included within the jurisdiction of the munici- pality. All these constitutional forms EiyiERA, Houte 14, — Sarzana — Sarzanetta, 137 were swept away by the republicans, and when the Sardmian government was restored, the French forms of administration were substantially re- tained, as in most other parts of the kingdom. The Duomo, built of white marble, begmi in 1355, but not completed till 1474, is a specimen of early Italian- Gothic. In the centre of the west front is a good and unaltered rose window. The facade is remarkable for its simpUcity. The interior, although much modernised, still preserves its three fine round arches, separating the nave and aisles, supported by elegant octagonal piers ; the transepts, which are short, contain two rich and florid G-othic altars. There is a Massacre of the Innocents in the chapel at the end of the rt. aisle, by Fiasella, sur- named Sarzana^ from this his birth- place. On the fagade are tlu^ee statues, one of Pope Nicholas V. (1447-1455), Thomas of Sarzana, who was a native of this town. Though bom of hum- ble parents, he was entirely free from the weakness of nepotism. He was the munificent protector of the Greeks when driven into Italy after the fall of Constantinople; an event which, as it is said, he took so much to heart, that it hastened his end. He was also the founder of the greatest Hterary repository of Italy — the Yati- can Libraiy. It was also from Sar- zana that the reigning family of France appears to have derived its origin, as shown by the curious researches of Signor Passerini. The name of Buonaparte, a kind of sobriquet in its origin (as Mala- parte was in the Gherardesca family), became the patronymic of a junior branch of the Cadolingis, Lords of Fu- cecchio, which had settled in the pro- vince of Lunigiana, and neighbourhood of Sarzana, where, as proved by con- temporary documents, a certain no- tary called Buonaparte lived in 1264, It was the chief of this branch who emigrated to Corsica (Ajaccio), and from whom descended the family of Napoleon. The genealogy of the Coimts of Fucecchio can be traced as far back as the middle of the 10th centy., so that the Imperial family may boast of an origin almost as remote as that of their Bourbon pre- decessors on the throne of France. The Buonaparte family of S. Miniato was of Siennese origin, and was sup- posed generally before Signor Pas- serrini's researches, and by the first Napoleon himself, to be that from which the Imperial house derived its origin. The castle and the ancient fortifica- tions of the city form an extensive mass of buildings. In this neighbourhood the peasant- girls wear hats which would not be too large for a fuU-sized doll, and are whim- sically placed on the crown of the head. Sarzanetta^ a "rocca," or fortress, above Sarzana, built by Castruccio degli Antelminelli, the celebrated Lord of Lucca, for the purpose of defending the territory against the Malaspinas, from whom it was won. It is a finely pre- served specimen of ancient military ar- chitecture, with its commanding keep harmonising with the fortifications of the town, 12 kil. Ayenza Stat. (See Ete. 76.) The distance from Avenza to Carrara, to which there is a branch Ely., is 2 m. to Pisa, by Ely., 41 m., passing through Massa, Pietra Santa, and Via- reggio (Ete. 76) ; from Pisa to Flo- rence, by Ely., 49 m. (Ete. 77) ; from Lucca to Pisa, 13 m. (Ete. 78) ; Leg- horn to Pisa and Florence, 58jm, (Ete. 79). ( l'^9 ) SECTION III. LOMBARD y. 1. Passports, Posting.— 2. 2Ionpi/.—S. WeUjUs, Measures.— 4^. Temtory.— 5. Nature of the Counlnj, Agriculture, Productions. — 6. Language. — • 7. Fine Arts of Lomlardg. EOUTES. HOUTE PAGE EOUTE PAGE 16. From the Italian Frontier on by Coclogna, Pozziglietone, the Simplon to Arona and i &e. .... 245 Lago Maggiore - - 148 ! 24. Milan to Piacenza, by Mele- 17. Sesto Calende, on Lago Mag- guano, Lodi, and Casal giore, to Milan - - 154 Pusterlengo - - - 245 18. Laveno to Varese and Como - 155 25. Milan to Mantua, by Cre- 19. Como to Lecco and Bergamo 165 j oriona - - - - 249 20. Lecco to Milan - - - 167 i 27. Milan to Peschiera, by Trevig- 21. Como to Milan, by Monza — | lio, Bergamo, Brescia, Sol- Eail - - - - 168 : ferino, &c.— Rail - - 256 22. Milan to Yarese, by Saronno 230 ! 28. Milan to Bergamo, by the 23. Milan to Genoa, by Pavia— \ post-road through Gorgon- Rail - - - - 232 j zola and Va^prio - - 288 23b. Pavia to Cremona and Brescia, | PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. § 1. Passpoets. — Posting. The regulations as to passports are on the same liberal system as in other parts of the kingdom of Italy. The measures of distances, and rules as to post-horses, are similar on the very few roads of Lombardy near which railway travelling has not yet penetrated. § 2. Money. At present tlie Italian Lira is equal to the French franc. The currency of Lombardy, being the same as that of Sardinia, consists, in gold, of Napoleons, and 40 and 80 franc pieces, and in silver of 5, 2, 1, :J franc, and 20 centime pieces. Formerly money calculations were perplexing in consequence of payments being made in Lire Milanesi and Lire Italiane, but the Lira Itahana, or Franc, is that now universally adopted in all official and commercial transactions. The Lira Milanese, a nominal coin, was divided into 20 soldi, and each soldo into 12 denari ; its value 77 French centimes. The Lira Italiana is of the same value and subdivisions as the French franc ; in fact, the coins current under this name are the francs of the Italian kingdom, France, and Switzerland. The following are the comparative average values of these cpjns : — 140 § 2. Money, I, Sect. IIL i Lira Italiana, or i Lira Austriaca, or { Zwanziger. One-third of the florin. French Franc. ; Lir. Cent. 1 Lir. Cent. 1 j 1 19 2 — 2 38 3 i 3 57 4 4 76 5 5 95 10 """ ) XI 90 Lira Milanese. Lir. 1 2 4 5 7 14 Soldi. 8 16 4 12 II. L. Austriache. L. Ital. L. Milan. Lir. Cent. Lir. Cent. Lir. Soldi. 1 . — 84 1 4 2 — 1 68 2 8 3 — 2 52 3 12 4 = — 3 36 , 4 16 5 e — 4 20 6 — 10 — 8 40 12 — III. Milanese. Lir. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Soldi. Den. Austrian. Italian. Lir. Cent. Lir. Cent. — 88 77 1 76 1 54 2 64 2 ^ 31 3 52 3 8 4 40 3 85 5 28 4 62 6 16 5 39 7 4 6 16 7 92 6 93 8 80 7 70 § 3. Weights. — Measuees. Weights. — Although the metrical division is the only recognised standard, there are several local weights and measures which it may be well to know the equivalents of. Those of Lombardy are extremely various and confused. Until within a few years there were in usp, 11 units of money, 100 of linear and 120 LoMBARDY. § 3. Weiglits-^Measuns. § 4. Territory, 141 of superficial measure, and a still greater number of capacity. Some of tlic most commonly occurring measures are here given. The Ubhra piccola, the ordinary commercial weight, was divided into 12 once, 288 danari, and 6912 granij equal to 5044 Enghsh grains, or 0*32679 kilogrammes. Thus 1001b. of Milan = 72-061b. avoirdupois, or 32'68 kilo- grammes. The Uhhra grossa was equal to 28 once, or 2-33 of the libbra piccola. Hence 3 Hbbra grossa equal 7 libbra piccola, and 100 libbra grossa equal 168*21b. avou'dupois, or 76*25 kilogrammes. Liquid Measures, — The ht'enta was divided into 3 staia, 6 mine, 12 quartari, 96 boccah, and 381 zaine or terzeruole, and contains 18*86 English gallons^ Land or Superficial Measures. — The Pertica consisted of 1849 square braccie, equal to 783 square English yards, and to 654-^g metres. 1 Pertica is equal to - - - Ifg Roods. 1 Enghsh acre equal to - - - 6t% Pertiche. Measures of length. — The hraccio was divided into 12 once^ 144 punti, and 1728 atomi, equal to 23*42 Enghsh inches, or 1*95 feet, or 0*5949 of a French metre. The Lombard mile contained 3000 hraccia da legname^ equal to 1952 Enghsh yards, or 1 mile and 190 yards, or 1784 metres. The Itahan mile, which is stiU sometimes used, is the same as the geographical or nautical mile, and is equal to 2025 English yards, or 1852 metres. § 4. Teeritobt. The ancient kingdom possessed by the Longobardi, or Longheards^ extended from the Apennines and the Po to the Alps, excepting Venice and some few border districts. From this great and opulent territory large portions were acquired at various times by the Yenetians, constituting nearly the whole of t\ieh! terra firma dominions. A considerable portion was taken by the dukes of Savoy on the W. Mantua, Modena, Parma, Piacenza, Guastalla, all were dismembered from Lombardy, and erected into Imperial or Papal fiefs. The Swiss appropriated the Yaltellina ; and the Italian Balliages of Switzerland, now the canton Ticino (wliich still retains so many features of ancient Lom- bardy), resulted from this acquisition. The republic of Milan became subject to the lordship of Matteo Yisconti I. in 1288. The Yiscontis gained a great extent of territory which had belonged to the other Lombard repubhcs ; and their domains were erected into the " Duchy of Milan" by the Emperor Sigismund, in 1395. Milan, when acquired by the Spanish branch of the House of Austria, was thus reduced within comparatively narrow bounds. The treaty of Yienna, in 1814, restored to Austria all the possessions enjoyed by that house before the wars arising out of the French revolution, and also gave a great deal more — Yenice, and the whole of the Yenetian terra Jirma, the Yaltellina, and some smaller districts. These possessions were erected into a distinct kingdom, and still possess a national character widely different from the rest bf Italy, which continued to be possessed by Austria until 1859, when Lom- bai^dy was ceded to France by the Treaties of Yillafranca and Zurich, after the disastrous campaign of that year, and by France transferred to the kingdom of Italy. The population, according to the last census (1863), amounts to 3,104,788, divided into seven provinces : Milan, including Lodi, 948,320 Inhab. ; Brescia, 486,333 j Como, 457,434 j Bergamo, 347,235 ; Pavia, 419,785 ; Cre- 142 § 5. Nature of the Country : Agriculture. Sect. III. mona, 339,641 ; Sondrio and the Yaltelline, 106,040 : each province having at its head a Grovernor, and the subdivisions Deputy Grovernors or Intendentes. § 5. Nature of the Countby. — Ageicultuee. — Peoductions. In the earhest times of the history of Italy, the whole of that rich country which now bears the name of Lombardy was possessed by the ancient and powerful nation of the Tuscans. Subsequently numerous hordes from Graul poured successively over the Alps into Italy, and drove by degrees the Tuscans from these fertile plains. At about the beginning of the second century before Christ it became a Roman province. Large tracts of country, which, from being swampy or covered with forests, were uninhabited and unfit for cul- tivation, were now drained and levelled, and the whole assumed an appearance of prosperity and opulence which was not surpassed by any part of the Empire. The splendour of Yerona may be traced in its remains ; yet Verona was less celebrated than Padua, Milan, or Ravenna. But from the reign of Tiberius the decay of agriculture was felt in Italy. In the division and decline of the Empire the country was exhausted by the irretrievable losses of war, famine, and pestilence. St. Ambrose has deplored the ruin of a populous region, which had been once adorned with the flourishing cities of Bologna, Modena, Regium, and Placentia. The barbarians who took posses- sion of Italy on the fall of the Western Empire were compelled by necessity to turn their attention to agriculture, which had been long in such a state of pro- gressive but rapid depression, that the country could not furnish the imposts on which the pay of the soldiery depended, nor even a certain supply of the necessaries of life. After the occupntion of Northern Italy by the Lom- bards, and the restoration of a tolerable degree of security and quiet, agri- culture gradually improved. In spite of the constant warfare of the neighbour- ing cities during the existence of the Italian republics, both the towns and country advanced in population and wealth. Though the greatest territorial improvement of Lombardy took place, perhaps, at an sera rather posterior to that of her republican government, yet from this it primarily sprang, owing to the perpetual demand upon the fertility of the earth by an increasing popula- tion. The rich Lombard plains, still more fertihsed by irrigation, became a garden, and agriculture seems to have reached the excellence which it still retains. Though Lombardy was extremely populous in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, she exported large quantities of corn. Many canals were cut : the Naviglio Grande was commenced in 1177, and completed in 1272 ; that of Pavia, though only recently brought into its present complete state, was begun in 1359 ; that which runs through Milan, in 1440, and finished in 1497 ; those of Bereguardo and the Martesana were begun in 1457 ; and that of Paderno in 1518. These canals, and the general character of the land, give to the districts of the plain a considerable similarity to Flanders. At the present time tliis fertile section of the Italian kingdom, situated between the northern and the maritime Alps, and stretching from the Cottian and Pennine Alps to the Mincio and the Adriatic, comprises the most generally productive part of Italy. It is distinguished for its mulberry -trees and silk, its rice, Indian corn, wheat, and cheese. The vine, ohve, chesnut, and a great variety of fruits are raised. Potatoes and various vegetables are also grown ; and the peasantry are in a better condition than in most parts of the Peninsula. The farm-houses are often large, but inconveniently and scantily furnished, and, generally speaking, there is a great absence of completeness about the dwellings and in the implements of husbandry : many things are found out of order -, LoMEARDY. §5. Nature of the Country : Productions. 143 and we seldom fail to obserre a prevalence of the make-shift system in agri- culture. There is, however, a great variety in the pursuits, as well as in the habitations of the people. Those in the moimtain or hilly regions live and work very differently from those in the low countries of Lombardy and Yenice. The flat countries derive their fertility from the mountain regions which fill those great subalpine reservoirs the lakes of Maggiore, Como, and Garda with the water which is carried downwards by the rivers, and serves to flood the lands of the plain requii'mg ii'rigation. 1. The Mountainous Region comprises the northern parts of the provinces of Bergamo, Brescia, and Como, and the province of Sondrio. The lower heights of the Alps consist of woodland and pastm'es. The trees are chiefly fir, larch, birch, oaks, and chesnut ; the pastures in the mountain slopes and valleys. The herds ascend with their families, horses, and cattle to great elevations on the Alps during summer, and descend gradually, as in Switzerland, when winter approaches, to the valleys and low country. Culti- vation is attended to with great labour on the southern declivities of the mountain region ; the ground being formed in terraces, and the earth fre- quently carried up to supply what has been washed away by tlie rains. The vine is cultivated on the slopes. "Walnut and mulberry trees are also grown. Common fruits, some hemp and flax, barley, rye, Indian corn, buck- wheat, potatoes, common and kitchen vegetables, are all cultivated, though not in great abundance. Wax and honey are collected ; the latter, especially that of Bormio, is delicious. 2. The Littoral Region (that bordering on the lakes) comprehends the districts of Grravedona, Dongo, Bellaggio, Menaggio, Bellano, and Lecco, in the pro- vince of Como ; Lovere and Sarnico, in Bergamo ; and Iseo, Grargnano, Salo, and Dezenzano, in Brescia. It belongs to the elevated region, and forms the sidea of high mountains, which shelter it in a great measure from the cold winds. It is exposed to the warm air from the S. and from the lakes ; it is rarely subject to frost or snow ; and in these districts the climate is much more temperate than on the hiUs and plains situated at a lower level. The lemon is cultivated in a few places, not only for ornament, but for its fruit. These districts produce much wine and silk ; the country is covered with villas and gardens, adorned with cypresses, magnolias, or acacias. Properties are much divided on the Lake of Grarda ; a few yards of ground set apart for the cultivation of lemons suffice to maintain a whole family. The peasants there, are, properly speaking, gardeners. In this district are produced 15 miUions of lemons and 40,000 lbs. of oil from the berry of the laurel. The lemon-trees are covered in winter by sheds. This region is chiefly dependent on the neighbouring mountains for timber. The cultivation of the mulberry is- greatly extending, and that of the olive decreasing. It must be noticed that for several years the mulberry has by degrees sup- planted the olive, because the product of the mulberry-tree is more constant, and the time of crop less distant, whilst with the olive there are alternate years of abundance and scarcity. The olive* crop is gathered towards the end of the year, and remains long exposed to accidents. In the province of Brescia, within these last 36 years, the production of silk has greatly increased ; that of oH having diminished. 3. Silly ^ or Suhaljpine Region. This region, forming a rather narrow belt of country, immediately N. of the low country, extends along the upper parts of the provinces of Milan, Como, Bergamo, and Brescia. 144 § 5. Mature of the Countty : Prodactions, Sect. Ill* The chief productions of the hill country are silk, wines, maize, millet, chesnuts, fruit, and vegetables. The properties are less divided than in the mountain region ; still they are often split into small farms (Massarie), of the value of from 15,000 to 20,000 francs. Few peasants are proprietors ; the greater part are simple tenants, and pay in kind. They keep cows and oxen, but milk, cheese, and butter are scarce : part of these articles are introduced from the mountains, and part from the low country. The inhabitants attend principally to the cultivation of silk, and with the money gained from this they provide themselves with the necessaries of hfe. The houses in general are large, well aired, and clean, which they owe chiefly to the use these rooms are put to in rearing silkworms, as the worms are always more healthy in well-ventilated apartments. Here, as everywhere in the Lombardian provinces, the abodes of the peasantry are built of brick with tiled roofs. The climate is salubrious, mild, and free from fogs. Hail- storms are frequent. In this region there are often clear days, when the adjacent flat country is enveloped in fog. 4* The upper flat country comprehends part of Somma, Grallarate, Busto, Cuggionno, Saronno, Barlassina, Desio, Monza, in the provmce of Milan ; Yer- dello, Trevigho, Martinengo, and Romano, in Bergamo ; Ospitaletto, Castiglione^ and Montechiaro, in Brescia. This region is traversed by gentle undulations which branch from the hills j the soil is in many places drj, and not of natural fertility. The districts to which irrigation does not reach are often to a great extent covered with heath. There are still some forests of oak, pine, and chesnut trees. The subterranean waters are very deep, and the wells, for the greater part, are some hundred feet below the surface, as in the environs of GaUarate, Saronno, and Desio* The peasantry, when they have not some water- course in the neighbourhood, are obliged to collect the rain-water in tanks, called foppe^ or large square ditches embedded with a clayey stratum, which contain the rain-water for the use of the cattle, and which in dry weather becomes green and imwholesome* The ground is cultivated in wheat, rye, Indian com (which last suffers much from the drought), a httle buckwheat, miUet, melons, and, above all, in mulberry and fruit trees. In situations near the water the apple-tree flourishes. Meadow land is obtained by means of artificial irrigation. The peasants are less active, less cordial, and less cleanly than in the hilly country. Instead of massarie, or stewardships, as in the hills, it is customary to have tenants who pay a money- rent for the house, and a rent in kind for the ground. When in want of fodder for the cattle, the deficiency is made up by an abundant supply of lupins and heath, which latter substance is collected for this purpose ; it is cut from a portion of heath-ground, and given as an appendage to a certain quantity of cultivated land. 5. The loioflat country comprehends BoUate, Gorgonzola, Melzo, Melegnano, and Corsico, in Milan; the provinces of Pavia, Lodi, Crema, and Cremona; Orzi-Novo, Yerola-nuova, Bagnolo, and Leno, in that of Brescia ; Marcaria, Bozzolo, Sabbioneta, Yiadana, Borgo Forte, Mantua, Ostigha, Lazarra, Gronzaga Bevere, and Sermide, in Mantua. A gravelly soil prevails also in this region ; but the same aridity does not exist as in the upper flat region. Hills of good water are easily formed by digging a very moderate depth. Fontanili, or Artesian weUs on a small scale, LoMBARDY. §5. Nature of the Country : Productions, 145 are circular excavations dug in the eartli, in wliicli are placed long tubs, from the bottom of which bubble up copious streams of water. The Avater flows from fhesefontanili into a canal or ditch, along which it runs to irrigate the fields. The fontanili abound chiefly about Milan. Water is also drawn from the rivers by canals. The smaller canals, cavi and rugie, are innumerable, and were cut at difierent times. They often encroach on each other, mixing their waters, or avoiding them by means of bridges, canals, or by syphons, called salte di gatto. The waters are diligently measured by rides deduced from the law of hydro- statics, wliich have passed into an habitual practice. The canals are provided with graduated sluices (Incastri), which are raised or lowered according as the case may be. The measm-e is called onciaj and corresponds to the quantity of water which passes tlu'ough a square hole, three Milanese inches high (an oncia of Milan equals two inches English) and four inches wide, open one inch below the surface of the water, wliich, with its pressure, determines a given velocity. The value of a property depends on the command, the conveniency, and the goodness of the water. Hence the distribution of the waters is the object of local statutes, of dihgent care and keeping. The best irrigation is that in the lands about Milan, Lodi, and Pavia. In the comitry between Milan, Lodi, and Pavia, the cheese called in the country Grana, and by us Parmesan, is made. The provinces of Lodi and Pavia are the chief seats of its production. In the eastern part of Lodi and Crema flax is largely cultivated, and ex- ported to foreign countries by way of Venice and Grenoa. In the marshy dis- tricts of th e provinces of Milan and Cremona the cultivation of rice is on the increase. In tht more elevated parts of the Cremonese country, where irrigation is impossible, the cultivation of various kinds of grain, flax, mulberry-trees, and the vine is followed. In the low parts, along the Po, towards Casal maggiore, wine is the prmcipal production. The inhabitants of the low country are less incHned to be industrious, or to engage in commerce, than those of the upper. Hence in the lower coimtries manufacturing industry is greatly restricted. Nevertheless, in the Cremonese ten'itory much linen is manufactured about Yiadana; and at Pralboino, in the province of Brescia. Some classes of the peasantry, and chiefly those who tend large flocks, often change masters, and show a little^ settled disposition. In the Milanese districts the rich cheese called Stracchino is made from cream and unskunmed cow's milk. The best is produced about Gorgonzola, 12 m. E. of Milan. Silk. — The cultm'c of the mulberry, and the rearing of the silkworm, havCj in commercial value, become the most important branch of Lombard industry. The white mulberry grows cliiefly in rows, surrounding grounds under other cultivation, over a great extent of Lombardy. In most places it is pollarded, and is a dwarf thickly-leaved tree. When allowed to grow naturally it attains a tolerable size. All things considered, Italy ranks higher for her silk than any other country. She suppHes her own manufactures, and exports largely. In thirty years the . production has grown from a small value to the enormous amount of 250,000,000 Lire (more than 10,000,000Z.). In 1800 the whole produce of the Lom- bard©- Venetian kingdom did not exceed 1,800,000 lbs. of silk ; in 1856 it reached 2,512,500 lbs. avoird., valued at 3,333,000/. sterl. The value of the silk exported from the whole Lombardo-Yenetiau territory amounts to nearlv 5,000,000Z. sterling. iV. Italg—lSQi). h 146 § 6. Language,-^% 7. Fine Arts of Lomhardy, Sect. III. In Lombardy it is not found advantageous to raise more than one brood of worms during the year. The eggs are hatched in May, before the beginning of which a supply of leaves cannot be reckoned upon. The reeling the cocoons takes place in the autumn. A woman seated at a caldron containing hot water prepares and arranges the cocoons, while a girl turns the wheel on which the silk is wound. Considerable skill is required to manage the reeling. It is usually carried on in large buildings, with macliinery adapted to the purpose, and is a very animated spectacle during the autumn. § 6. Language. The Lombard dialects are, perhaps, the harshest in all Italy. The sound of the French u is generally found in them. It is not merely unknown, but quite unpronounceable, beyond the Apennines ; and Yerri, the historian of Milan, sup- poses it was left behind by the Grauls. § 7. FiKE Arts of Lombaedy. For painting we must refer our readers to Kugler's Handbook of the Italian kScIiooIs, ed. Eastlake, and Cavalcaselle and Crowe's History of Painting in Italy ; for Architecture, to Mr. Fergusson's Handbook of Architecture, and ~My. Street's Marble and Brick Architectm^e of North Italy, which is specially dedicated to a class of edifices almost peculiar to Lombardy ;* and for Sculp- ture, to Mr. Charles Perkins, Italian Sculpture, 1 vol. 4to., London, 1868. Of ancient sculptm-e Uttle has been found in Lombardy, except at Brescia. The earliest specimens of the sculpture of the middle ages are remarkably rude; fully as coarse as those of our Saxon ancestors ; of which the bas-reliefs of the Porta Eomana, at Milan, executed about the year 1169, immediately after the rebuilding of the city, are a striking specimen. About a hundred years afterwards sculpture produced a class of figures almost peculiar to Lombardy. These are frequently colossal, of lions and other animals, supporting the pillars of the portals of the churches, or sepulchral urns. In the 14th century several Tuscan sculptors were called in ; but there appear to have been also many Lombards, though few of their names have been preserved, as they do not seem to have adopted the custom, so much practised in other parts of Italy, of inscribing them upon their works. The records of the Certosa of Pavia, begun in 1473, suddenly afford us ample information respectmg the artists employed upon that splendid building — Amadeo, Brioschi^ 'Ettore d^Alha^ Antonio di Locate^ Battista and Stefano da Sesto, Piontello, Wava, Aerate, JFusina, Solaris and others ; but without giving us the means of distinguishing, at least in this building, the parts upon which they were severally employed. They have, however, one uniform character, extraordinary delicacy of finish in the details, and a pictorial management of their figures in bas-relief; so that it seems as if the works of Mantegna, or Pietro Perugino, were transferred to marble. Many of these sculptors were also architects, and in estimating the works of this school it must be recollected that sciolpture was seldom used by them as a detached ornament, but was always attached to some architectural structure. * Kugler's Handbook of the Italian Schools, 2 vols. 8yo., edited by Sir C. Eastlake, VJR.A ., 1855. Contributions towards a New History of Painting in Italy, by Sig. Cavalcaselle and J. E. Crowe, 5 vols. 8vo. Fergusson — The Illustrated Handbook of Architecture, with 850 Illustrations on wood, 5 vols. 8vo., 1855. The two last, just pubhshed, being dedicated exclu- sively to the Schools of the countries comprised in the present Handbook. Modern Styles of Architecture, and History of Architecture, 1866. The Marble and Brick Architecture of North Italy during the Middle Ages, by G. E. Street, 1 vol. 8vo., 1855 (qy. 65). The Brick and Terra- cotta Buildings of North Italy, 12 th to 15th Centuries, by Lewis Criiner. 1866. Lombard Y. § 7. Fine Arts of Lomhardy, 147 Tlie pride, however, of Lombard sculpture is Agostlno Busti, also called JBamhajaj Bamhara, or Zarahaja, who flourished in the early part of the 16th century; and by whom the cinque-cento style, or that of the Renaissance, was carried to perfection. The minute ornaments in which he excelled are usually arabesques of elegant invention, intermixed with fanciful ornament — animals, weapons, pieces of armour, ilowers, insects. Busti is supposed to have died about the year 1540. Bramhilla^ who worked some time before the death of Busti, has much of his character. The colossal terms of the Doctors of the Chm'ch in Milan cathedral, supporting one of the great pulpits, are by him : his minuter ornaments are scarcely inferior to those of Busti. The great .work of the cathedral of Milan, by fuimishmg constant employment, has main- tained a school of sculpture of considerable merit, which subsists to the present day. A majority of the workmen and artists have always been from the neigh- boiu-hood of Como, where the profession has been hereditary in famihes from the time of the Lombards. In recent times Marehesi^ Monti, Magni, and Vela have given a well-deserved reputation to the Milanese school of sculpture. The monuments of Roman architecture m the territory of ancient Lombardy are not numerous. Tew of them are in accordance with the rules of clas- sical architectm'e : the sculpture and the ornaments are indifferent ; most of them belong to the lower empu'e, and have what may be considered a provincial character. In mediaeval architecture Lombardy offers much, both in civil and ecclesias- tical buildings. The town-halls are interesting : they usually stand upon open arches ; and above is the Ringhiera, or balcony, from which the magistrates proclaimed the laws and addi'essed the people. Military architectm'e also exists in great variety — the rude towers of the periods of Queen Theodolinda or King Berengarius ; the castellated palace of the Signori, in the ages of the Italian republics ; and the regular fortification which, invented in Italy, have become universal throughout Europe. The earlier Lombard chm^ches exhibit a very pecuHar character, aUied to that which we find in many of those of Grermany, especially near the Rhine. It is very marked, and will be found to exist in almost every structure of that •class. Of Pointed architecture there are two distinct styles : the one simple and bearing much analogy to the Italian Grothic of Tuscany ; the other florid or highly ornamented and introduced from Grermany : to the latter belongs the Duomo of Milan. Many of the Grothic and some of the cinque-cento buildings are of moulded brick, to which are added terra-cotta reliefs. This kind of work has been carried to a degree of excellence which can only be appreciated in Lombardy. The colour is a shade hghter than that of our Tudor buildings ; the diirability of the material is such as to be nearly as lasting as marble. In the style of the Renaissance Lombardy excels. The works of Bramante and Solari are full of imagination and effect. In later times Palladio had comparatively httle influence ; in civil architecture, the palaces of Milan, Pavia, and Cremona, are inferior to those of Vicenza or Genoa. At present the most eminent architects have been formed, either directly or indirectly, by the French and Roman schools. In the middle ages Lombardy was the great instructress of Christendom in civil law and in medicine ; and in modern times science has been cultivated here with success ; while, in imaginative literature, Monti was one of the most elegant of modern Italian poets, and the name of Manzoni is an honour, not only to Lombardy, but to the Italian tongue. His historical novel, the Pro- messi Sposi, should be in the traveller's hands in his excursions in and about Milan. It is a real guide-book both to the scenery and the history of that lovely land. u 2 148 Route 16. — Simplon to Lago Maggiore. Sect. III. EOUTES. BOUTE 16. FROM THE ITALIAN FRONTIER ON THE SIMPLON TO ARONA AND LAGO MAGGIORE. 15 kil. = 46i Eng. m. Isella to Domo d'Ossola . . 18 kil. „ Vogogna .... 32 „ „ Baveno 56 „ „ Arona ..... 75 „ The Route of the Simplon is de- scribed in the Handbook of Switzerland and Piedmont, Rte. 59. Isella, the Italian frontier stat. and Custom-house {Inn: fair and clean), below which the road traverses a short tunnel, and farther down the longer one of Crevola, and the handsome bridge over the Doveria: from here the traveller may suppose himself fairly in Italy. Domo d' Ossola {Inns : H. d'Espagne, good and clean ; H. de laVille), a good- sized town, where everything assumes an Italian look. Curious Calvary above the town. 2 diligences daily to Arona, and omnibus to Pallanza, in correspondence with the steamers on Lago Maggiore. The Hotel Alhassini, outside Domo, is a good pension, and much frequented for its baths in sum- mer. On leaving D. the road follows the valley of the Toccia, leaving the river which descends from the Val Vegezzo on 1. A road branches off on the rt. along the Anzasca to Fie di Mulera and Macugnaga at the foot of Monte Rosa, before reaching 9 m. Vogogna (Inn: La Corona, fair), a considerable village. Here commences the navigation on the Toccia to Lago Maggiore. Beyond Vogogna, at the hamlet of Primosello, a road branches off to Pallanza, passing along the Lake of Mergozzo. 6 m. beyond Vogogna the road passes through Ornavasso ; on the opposite bank of the Toccia from which are the quarries of white marble at La Gandoglia, which have furnished the material for the Cathe- dral of Milan. The marble here forms a mass in the crystalline gneiss rock, and affords a good example of what geologists call metamorphism, the con- version by heat or by gaseous emana-* tions of a sedimentary into a crystalline rock. Gravellona, near the junction of the Strona from the Lake of Orta and the Toccia, which here makes a sudden bend round the hill of Montorfano on the 1., celebrated for its quarries of white granite, used in the construction of the Basilica of St. Paul's at Rome. Road to Omegna (5 m.), at the ex- tremity of the Lake of Orta, where boats can be hired for Orta. On leaving Gravellona cross the handsome bridge over the Strona, and 3 m. farther, after leaving the road to Pallanza on 1., reach Fariolo (Inn: Lion d'Or, fair, at- tentive landlord). Here the Lago Maggiore bursts into view: the Isola Madre, the northernmost of the Bor- romean Islands, seen in the distance. The steamers call here once a day, at 10*50 a.m., on their way to Arona, and at 1*40 p.m. to the upper part of the lake. Between Fariolo and Ba- veno the road follows the water's edge, passing the quarries of red granite, so extensively used in the public edifices of Milan, Turin, &c. Baveno (Inns : Hotel Bellevue, first- rate ; H. de la Poste, improved), in a lovely situation opposite the Bor- romean Islands, from which it is about 3 m. distant. The steamers call off here in the morning and afternoon for Arona and the upper parts of the lake. Boats maybe hired for the Borromean Islands : fares according to a printed tariff. There are handsome villas here— of the late General Collegno, the Marquis Durazzo, Sec, the place being much frequented in summer. Baveno will be the best place to start from for the ascent of LOMBARDY. Route 16. — Monte Motterone, 149 The Monte Motterone or Margozzolo^ sometimes called jMovterone, rising be- hind the village, commands a fine panoramic view of the Alps, and has at its base the Lago d'Orta on one side, and Lago IVIaggiore on the other. Asses are kept for the ascent. It will take 4 hrs. from Baveno to reach the top, 4816 ft. above the sea-level, and 4136 above the Lago Maggiore. The mule-path from Baveno to the Motterone, passing through woods of chesnut-trees during the lower part of the ascent, is carried over a neck of the mountain a long way below the summit, which is reached by a steep climb up the grassy slope. At the base of the ascent are several dairy-farms or chalets, where the traveller can obtain refreshment in the shape of excellent cream, milk, cheese, &c. It will take 3 hrs. to descend to Orta, and require nearly 6 hrs. for a fair walker to take this walk from Baveno to Orta and enjoy the view. The view from the summit of the Monte Motterone is one of the most extensive on the S. declivity of the Alps. The Mont Blanc, the Combin, and the Mont Cervin, are hidden by the nearer hills of the Val Sesia and by the Monte Rosa. The line of snowy peaks to rt. of the latter, em- bracing Cima de Jazi, Fletschhorn, Monte Leone, and Bortelhorn, appears to great advantage. Farther E. rise the peaks and glacers that lie on either side of the Bernardin and Spliigen passes, and in the farther distance the great mass of the Bernina Alps. Almost at his feet the traveller sees 5 lakes — the Maggiore, the Lake of Orta, those of Monato, Comabbio, and Varese ; and still farther to the rt. the great plain of Lombardy and of Piedmont, studded with innumerable villages, with Milan in the centre, whose cathedral is dis- tinctly visible. The two great tributa- ries of the Po, the Sesia and the Ticino, appear like silver ribbons traversing the dark ground of the plain, and the distant Apennines of Parma and Modena close this unrivalled pano- rama to the S., whilst the plain of Lombardy stretches afar to the E. till it is lost in the horizon. The descent from the Motterone to Orta will require 3 hrs. at least. Here the tourist can proceed by boat or car to Omegna, 2 hrs. walk from Baveno. (See Rte. 118.) From Baveno the Simplon road con- tinues close to the water's edge, pass- ing the Borromeo stables, the nearest point of the continent to the Isola Bella (^ m.), a mile beyond which is Stresa, a good-sized village in one of the most beautiful situations on the Ivago Maggiore, with a first-rate hotel, IT. des lies Borromees, a most agree- able summer residence, with every comfort. Protestant Service twice a day on Sundays during the summer, in a large room of the hotel set aside for the purpose. There are several hand- some villas about here: that of the Duchess of Genoa, at the entrance to the town; of the Princess Mathilde Bonaparte Demidoff beyond, &c. Above Stresa is a large conventual establish- ment of monks of the Rosminian or- der; a good monument to Rosmini, the founder of his order, by the Swiss sculptor Vela in the ch. Boats for the Borromean Islands : fares according to a printed tariff. The Monte Motte- rone may also be ascended from here, passing through chesnut woods for one-half of the excursion. All the steamers call at Stresa, where there is a good landing-pier. The drive from Stresa to Arona is beautiful, passing close to the lake, often on raised terraces, by JBelgirate, a pretty town, much fre- quented as a villegiatura residence in summer and autumn, with many hand- some villas of the Milanese and Genoese aristocracy : Lesa, the residence of the celebrated novelist Manzoni for many years ; Mena ; at all which places the steamers stop to land and take in pas- sengers. From here the statue of San Carlo appears upon the hills on the rt. The views over the E. shore of the lake, extending from the pointed mountain of Laveno to the less elevated one of Angera, are beautiful. Before reach- ing Arona, the road passes at the foot of a precipitate hill, where are quar- ries of dolomitic limestone. Arona (Inns : Albergo d' Italia 150 Route 16. — Lago Maggiore. Sect. III. Posta, near the stat. — and good), an ancient and rapidly improving town of 4000 Inhab. It is built on the very margin of the lake. The Simplon road runs through the town. All the steamers now start from here (where the railways from Milan, Genoa, and Turin terminate) for the upper ex- tremity of the lake. By rail from Arona by Novara^ tra'vellers can reach Genoa in 5, Turin in 4, and Milan in 3 hrs. by the more direct line, through Sesto Calende, Somma, &c. The Stat, is close to the steam- boat pier. In consequence of this rail- way and the improvements of the har- bour, Arona has become the great entrepot between Genoa and Switzer- land, and a very thriving place. The principal Ch. (Santa Maria) contains a picture attributed to Gau- denzio Ferrari^ — a Holy Family, with shutters painted with figures of saints, and the portrait of a Countess Borromeo, by whom it was presented to the ch. San Carlo Borromeo was born in the old castle above Arona, the feudal seat of his family, 1538 ; destroyed by the French 1797. On a hill, about half an hour's walk from the town, stands the Colossal Statue of San Carlo Borromeo, 66 ft. high, and placed on a pedestal 40 ft. high. The head, hands, and feet, alone, are cast in bronze ; the rest of the figure is formed of sheets of beaten copper, arranged round a pillar of rough masonry which forms the sup- port of it. The saint is represented extending his hand towards the lake, and over his birthplace, bestowing his benediction. There is grace in the atti- tude, in spite of the gigantic proportions of the figure, and benevolence beams from the countenance ; altogether the effect of it is good and impressive. It was erected, 1697, by subscriptions, principally contributed by the Borro- mean family. It is possible to enter the statue and to mount up into the head, but the ascent is difficult, and not to be attempted by the nervous. It is effected by means of two ladders tied together (provided by a man who lives hard by), resting on the pe- destal, and reaching^ up to the skirt of the saint's *robe. Between the folds of. the upper and lower drapery the adventurous climber squeezes himself through — a task of some difficulty if he be of corpulent dimensions; and he then clambers up the stone pillar which supports, the head, by placing his feet upon the iron bars or cramps by which the copper drapery is at- tached to it. To efiect this, he must assume a straddling attitude, and pro- ceed in the dark till he reaches the head, which he will find capable of holding 3 persons. Here he may rest himself by sitting down in the recess of the nose, which forms no bad sub- stitute for an arm- chair. In the neighbouring church several relics of San Carlo are preserved. From the top of la Bocca, the hill above Arona, there is a fine view. The geologist will find near the quar- ries of limestone (dolomite) an inte- resting contact of the magnesian lime- stone and red porphyry. Opposite Arona, on the other side of the lake, stands the Castle of Aug era, a fief also of the Borromeos, on a similar dolomitic peak, at the foot of which is the neat modern village of the same name. Remains of lake dwellings have been dug up on the marshy ground near Mercurago, S. of Arona. Diligences daily from Arona to Dome d'Ossoia and Brieg over the Simplon, to Sierre, where the rly. to Geneva and Lausanne commences. A good carriage- road leads from Arona to Orta {Handbook of Switzer- land and Piedmont, Rte. 118), 15 kil. = 9 J m. — an omnibus daily ; and to Borgomanero on the rly. from Gozzana to No vara. Lago Maggiore. The 'Lago Maggiore, Lacus Verbanus of the Romans, is 680 ft. above the sea, and about 54 m. long, and 3 m. wide at its greatest breadth between Baveno and Laveno. Only a small portion at its N. extremity belongs to Switzer- land. About 7 m. S. of Locarno, the Italian frontier commences. The na- vigation of the lake is free to both states. The 3 chief rivers by which LOMBAKDY. Route 16. — Boroineaii Islands. 151 it is fed are tlie Ticino, flowing from the St. Gothard and Bernardino ; the Tresa, which drains the Lake of Lu- gano ; and the Toccia, descending from Domo d'Ossola. The scenery of its upper end is bold and mountainous, and at the same time diversified by a constant succession of striking and beautiful features ; so is the bay of Baveno (to call by that name the W. arm, containing the Borromean Is- lands) ; but, towards the S. and E., its shores are less lofty, subsiding gra- dually into the valley of the Tessin and great plain of Lombardy. There is a large variety of fish : the fishery is for the most part the property of the Borromeo family. The voyage up and down the lake is delightful, and the scenery exquisite. The sides are so precipitous in some parts that there is scarcely a path along them. Villages and churches are, however, perched on the heights ; and wherever a deposit has been formed in the lake by a torrent, a village will be found. Arona will be the best point from which the tour of the lake can be com- menced. The direct rly. from Milan arrives there in about 3 hrs., and the steamers at the south extremity of the lake start from it ; we shall therefore notice the principal places on its shores, in the ascending order, and supposing the traveller employing the steamer. Leaving Arona, the boat coasts along the W. side of the lake, calling to land passengers at 4 kil. Meina (W.) ;* 5 kil. Lesa (W.) ; 2 kil. Bejgirate (W.) ; and 5 kil. Stresa (W.), where there is one of the best inns, already noticed. From Stresa the distance to the Isola Bella, the principal of the Borro- mean Islands, is less than a mile, where passengers are landed opposite the palace. There is a very good and quiet inn here, the Delfino, kept by the same proprietors as the larger hostelry at Stresa. 1 kil. Borromean Islands. Under this name are comprised 4 islands in the W. bay of the Lago Maggiore • * W. west, E, east shores. (or in what may be called the Bay of the Islands) : the Isola Bella, the Isola Madre, the Isola di San Gio- vanni, near Pallanza, the 3 latter be- longing to the Borromeo family, and the Isola dei Piscatori, inhabited chiefly by fishermen, or by families originally of the island, who, having emigratLcl and become rich, have built for them- selves a retreat for their latter days. The Isola Bella (passengers are conveyed free of charge to and from the 'steamers, as at all the stations on the lake) belongs to the Count Borro- meo, who resides a part of the year in the vast palace. An ancestor of the family, in 1671, converted this mass of bare and barren slate-rock, which lifted itself above the surface of the lake, into a beautiful garden, teem- ing with the vegetation of the tropics. It consists of terraces, the lowest founded on piers thrown into the lake, rising in a pyramidal form one above another, and lined with statues, vases, obelisks, and cypresses. Upon these, as upon the hanging-gardens of Baby Ion, flourish in the open air, not merely the orange, citron, myrtle, and pome^ granate, but aloes, cactuses, the cam- phor and sassafras trees (of which there are specimens 40 ft. high), several species of metrosideros and other Australian plants — and this with- in a few hours' journey of the Lapland climate of the Simplon, and in view of Alpine snows. The opinions of travellers are not unanimous in their admiration of this lovely spot. Matthews extols it as ''the magic creation of labour and taste ... a fairy-land, which might serve as a model for the gardens of Calypso ;" Saussnre calls it "un mag- nifique caprice, une pensee grandiose, une espece de creation ; " Gibbon " an enchanted palace, a work of the fairies, in a lake accompanied with mountains." To taste it may have little pretension ; but, for a traveller fresh from the rigid climate of the north, this singular creation of art, with its aromatic groves, its aloes and cactuses starting out of the rocks — and, above all, its glorious situation, bathed by the dark blue waters of the lake, 152 Route 16. — Pallanza, Sect. III. reflecting the Sparkling white villages on its banks, and the distant snows of the Alps — cannot fail to afford pleasure, and a visit to the Isola Bella will not be repented of. Every handful of mould on the island was originally brought from a distance. It is probable that its foun- dation of gneiss and mica slate-rock favours the growth of tender plants by long retaining the heat of a noonday sun ; but few persons are aware that, in addition to this, the walls of the terraces, on which grow the lemon and orange trees, are boarded over during winter to protect them. The orange and lemon blossoms perfume the air to some distance. The pano- rama from the upper platform over the lake, and up the valley towards the Simplon, is beautiful. A laurel (bay) of gigantic size is pointed out, as well for its remarkable growth as for a scar on its bark, where Napoleon, it is said, cut with a knife the word "battaglia," a short while before the battle of Marengo. Rous- seau once thought of making the Isola Bella the residence of his Julie, but changed his mind on reflecting that so artificial an abode would not be consistent with the simplicity of her character. The Palace, which, with the gar- dens, is liberally shown to strangers at all times by permission of its owner, contains a gallery of pictures, amongst which are some good works by the Procaccini, a Charity of And, Sacchi, &c. In another part of it are a suite of 50 landscapes by Tempesta, who found a shelter here when obliged to conceal himself for his misdeeds, and in one of the drawing-rooms several paintings by Zuccarelli, views of the different possessions of the Borromeos. In the Chapel are 3 fine sepulchral monuments of the Borromeo family, removed from churches in Milan at the time of the Cisalpine republic : one, over the altar, was intended to contain the relics of St. Giustina, an ancestress of the Borromeos ; another is erroneously attributed to Ant. Busti, and praised by Vasari ; the third, to Giovanni Borromeo, is admirable for effect, and the infinite details are marvellously worked out all these monuments are probably by Omodeo, (C. Perkins), and executed towards the beginning of the 16th cent. The large unfinished building which separates the two wings of the palace was in- tended for a great central hall and staircase, but has never been covered in. On the ground-floor is a series of apartments, ornamented in mosaic, with statues, model of the palace, &c. The Isola Madre will be well worth a visit by the horticulturist ; from its greater distance from the mountains, which screen the sun earlier from the Isola Bella, it enjoys a milder climate in winter. The plants of New Holland grow luxuriantly out of doors ; the two species of tea are generally in flower in October. The Chilian and Brazilian Araucarias attain a great size ; tropical plants grow luxuriantly on the rocks around; on the island are many pheasants, a rare sight in Italy, these birds being' as it were im- prisoned, from their inability by flight to gain the opposite shores. There is nothing to interest the traveller in the large palace, which is but partially furnished, but in progress of restora- tion. Near it is a sepulchral chapel of the family, recently erected ; it contains some relics of St. Charles. The small island of St. Giovanni, forming the 4th of the Borromean group, is situated near Pallanza; it offers nothing remarkable. From Isola Bella the steamer passes before 3 kil. Baveno (W.) with a very large inn much resorted to in summer, and 3 kil. Fariolo, already noticed, and then along the N. shore of the Bay of the Islands, passing before Suna to 7 kil. Pallanza (W.) (^Inn : I'Univers, good) ; a large town of 4000 Inhab., and chief town of the district, being the residence of the sub-prefect. It contains a large model prison for male convicts. There is a nursery-garden of some local* celebrity near the town. A road from Pallanza to Gravellona and the Simplon, with an omnibus daily to Domo d'Ossolo, passing near the pretty lake of Mergozzo and the granite LOMBARDY. Bo lite 1 6 . — Luino — Locarno . 153 quarries of Montorfano, both worthy of a visit. There is also au omnibus daily to Omegna, on the Lake of Orta ; from Pallanza to Intra, a pretty walk over the peninsula (1 m.). Leaving Pallanza, we round the point, behind which is 4 kil. Intra (W.) (all the Inns in- different : Veau, and Leone d'Oro), a large and thriving town, at the mouth of the V^al Intrasca. There are several manufactories here of iron, cotton, glass, and especially extensive works for winding silk from the cocoons, the motive power being supplied by the large torrent which here empties itself into the Lago Maggiore. A new road in progress along the shore towards Locarno. From Intra the steamer crosses the lake, here 2j m. wide, to 4 kil. Laveno (W.) (see Rte. 18). The E. shore of the lake, between Laveno and Angera, presents little interest for the tourist, the only place worth visiting being the ch. of Santa Caterina. The country about Ispra is rich in mulberry plantations. Public conveyances from Laveno to Varese and Como. 4 m. N. of Laveno, on the same side, is 9 kil. Porto, near which extensive lime-works. From here we cross the lake to 7 kil. Ogebhio (W.), beyond which is a villa built by the celebrated writer and statesman, Massimo Azeglio, one of the most brilliant ornaments of united Italy ; before reaching 5 kil. Cannero (W.), lying off which are two islands, fiefs of the Borromeos : upon one of them is a ruined strong- hold, which in the 15th centy. was held by the robber brothers Mazzarda, locally celebrated for their marauding expeditions. Opposite to Cannero is 5 kil. Luino (K.) Inn : La Beccaccia, very fair, civil people), a good-sized village, where the river 'J'resa, the natural emissary of the Lake of Lugano, empties itself. The prin- cipal celebrity of the place is derived from its being the birthplace of the painter Bernardino Luini (one of the great masters of the early Lombard school of painting). A lovely road of 14 m. leads from here to Lugano, which, after ascending the hills, follows the direction of the river Tresa through a beautiful valley, and entering the Swiss territory 3 m. beyond Luino (see Swiss Handbook, Rte. 1 15). There are conveyances for Lugano in correspond- ence with the arrival of the steamers ; a carriage with two horses may be hired for 15 frs 5 kil. Macagno (E.), at almost the nar- rowest portion of the Lago Maggiore. 7 kil. Canohhio (W.) (^Inn, H. Bissone, fair), at the entrance of the ValleCanob- biana : there is a ch. here, said to be from the designs of Bramante. 6 kil. Brissago (W.), a pretty spot. Here we are in the Swiss portion of the Lake. Brissago is remarkable for its clean appearance, and a fine avenue of cypresses leading to its ch. on the side of the hill. 15 kil. Zenna (E.), nearly on the line of the Italo-Swiss frontier, but Italian. Here the lake widens, and attains perhaps its greatest breadth between Ronco and Gera. 6 kil. Ascona (W.), surmounted by a ruined mediaeval castle. 5 kil. Locarno (W.) {Inns: la Corona, on the lake, very fair; the Alhergo Suizzero, in the town, second-rate) ; a good-sized town, with nearly 3000 Inhab., at the embouchure of the Val Maggia, and of the large water- course that descends from it into the Lago Maggiore. Locarno is one of the 3 capitals of the Swiss canton of the Tessia, the others being Lugano and Bellinzona. It is in a lovely situation, and to be preferred, as a residence for tourists in the adjoining valleys, to Magadino. Locarno is a very thriving place, being one of the principal entre- pots for merchandise between Switzer- land and N.W. Italy, surrounded by orange and lemon groves, and a luxu- riant vegetation ; the landscape about is quite Italian. There are remains of an old castle : the Government House, the residence of the cantonal authorities whilst located at Locarno, is in the midst of a pretty square. There are several churches and convents. The Madonna del Sasso, a mile above the town, is approached by a Calvary, with stations of our Lord's Passion: the panorama from the portico of the ch. is H 3 154 Route 17. — Sesto Cahnde to Milan. Sect. III. magnificent, especially the view up the valley of the Ticino. There are some paintings attributed to B. Luini in the interior. 10 minutes higher up is the Monte de la Trinita^ from which the view is glorious. The ch. of St. Antonio, in the town, was in 1863 the scene of a frightful calamity, by the falling in of the roof from the weight of the snow upon it during Divine service, when 47 persons perished. Excursions may be made from Locarno up the Val Maggia to Cevio and the Val Lavizzara. (See H. of Switzerland, Kte. 114.) The direct road from Lo- carno to Bellinzona passes through Minusio, situated at the very northern- most point of the lake, from which it follows the rt. bank of the Ticino to Monte Carasso, 2 m. from Bellinzona. 5 kil. Magadino (E.) {Tnn, La Belle- vue and Posta, " dirty and dear (Dr. T., June, 1868) ; beware of touters for inns here on board the steamers from Arona," the point of departure of the steamers in the downwarcl voyage, which, during the summer months, leave at 4, 6*30, and 11*30 A.M.; a miserable place, in the Delta of the Ticino, where it empties itself into the lake, and hence unhealthy in the summer and autumn, so that the shorter time travellers remain here the better. Since the opening of the navigation by steam, and of the rly., from different parts of Italy to Arona, Magadino has become a place of con- siderable importance as an entrepot for the trade in Switzerland. It is 9 m. from Bellinzona, by which pub- lic conveyances run in correspondence with all the steamers. An omnibus starts to convey passengers to join the diligences at Bellinzona over the St. Gothard to Lucerne, and over the Ber- nardin pass to Coire and Zurich, at 8" 15 A.M., arriving from these same places at 4 a.m., so that travellers can reach Milan, Turin, and Genoa about 1 A.M. PKOM THE liAGO MAGaiORE TO MILAN. As a large proportion of travellers who visit Northern Italy arrive by way of the Simplon, the St. Gothard, and the Bernardino passes from Switzerland, they will find it convenient to exa- mine the shores of the Lago Maggiore before entering Lombardy, by stopping at Baveno, or at Stresa, at which there are good inns — the Bellevue at Baveno, the Hotel des lies Borromees (new and excellent) at Stresa, and Delfino at the Isola Bella. We will suppose therefore that the tourist, after having visited the great attractions of the Lago Maggiore, the Borromean Islands, wishes to proceed into Lombardy : for this purpose he may choose between three routes, by rly. from Sesto Ca- lende, and from Arona through Novara to Milan, the most expeditious, or by the more agreeable one through Laveno, Varese, and Como ; by adopting the latter he will be able to visit the Lake of Como and its magnificent scenery. EOUTE 17. AEONA ON THE LAGO MAGGIOEE TO Arona to — Sesto Calende Vergato . . Somma . . Gallarate . . Busto Arsizio KIL. I . 9 . 16 . 19 2Y I Legnano . Parabiago . Rho . . Musocco . 36 ; Milan The rly. starts 3 times a day to Milan in correspondence with the steamers from the northern parts of the Lake, performing the journey in 2^ and 3 hrs., passing by Sesto Ca- lende, Gallarate, &c. There are three lines of steamers daily ascending and descending the Lake, their head- quarters at the S. extremity being Arona, all in correspondence with the rly. trains to and from Milan, Genoa, and Turin ; but as their hours of starting vary with the season, the traveller must have recourse to the local time-tables for the necessary in- formation. These boats, leased to a company, and belonging to the Govern- ment, are well appointed. All, both in ascending and descending, stop off the Borromean Islands to land and take in passengers. The fkst portion of the rly. runs parallel to the Lake as far as L03IBARI)Y. Route 18. — Laveno to I arese and Goriio, 155 9 kil. Sesto Calende. {Inn: LaPosta, very indilTerent.) Rly. for Grallarate and Milan 3 times a -day, in correspond- ence with the trains that leave Arona at 12-30 and 5-15 p.m. The dis- tance, 43 Enghsh miles, reqnires 2 hrs. Except t\\Q mediaival churcli of San Donato, there is nothing to detain the traveller at Sesto. On leaving Sesto the rly. crosses the plain of the Ticino by a very gradual rise to the foot of the hills of La Somma, as we approach wliicli large deposits of erratic blocks are seen on either side : the village of Somma is situated on the top of this ridge, 500 feet above the Lago Maggiore. The view of the chain of the Alps, and of Monte Rosa in particular, from here and during the ascent from Sesto, is magnificently grand. There is a me- diaeval castle bearing the arms of the Yiscontis at Somma ; but the object most interesting is an enormous cy- press-tree, so old as to be said to date from the time of Juhus Caesar. It is in an angle formed by the bend of the road, which Napoleon is said to have caused to be diverted from its straight course in order to prevent the destruc- tion of the tree, at first decided on by his engineers. It was in this neigh- bourhood that took place the battle between Scipio and Hannibal, wherein tlie latter was victorious. 10 kil. Somma Stat. The town is situ- ated at the top of a ridge parallel to the course of the Ticino, consisting of sand and gravel, with huge boulders, and which, from its elevation, cannot be irrigated. In many parts it forms a waste, covered with heath, and known as the Brugiiiera of Somma and Grallarate. Efforts have been made at different times to bring it into cultivation, but to little purpose. A plan has been recently brought forward to convey a canal of irrigation from the Lake of Lugano, the only one of the great iUpine reservoirs whose superior level would allow of its waters reaching here. Of late years a military camp, like our Aldershott, has been established in this neighbourhood, where large bodies of troops are exer- cised dm'ing the summer months. The rly. here commences to descend nearly parallel to tlie carriage-road, and passes through some deep cuttings be- fore reaching 8 kil. Gallarate Stat., a large town on the eastern side of the Somma hills, at the commencement of the fertile region that extends to Milan. Elys. branch olF from here to Varese on the N. 13 m., and to Milan, 26 m., through JBusto Arsizio, 8 kil. ; Legna7io^ 13 kil. ; ParaUago, 18 kil. ; Rho, 27 kil., where it joins the great line from Turin to Milan (Ute. 2) . The district over which this line passes, bordering on the Olona, is extremely rich in an agricultural point of view, being carefully cultivated in mulberry-trees, Indian corn, and pas- turage. At Busto Arsizio, a large town, is a church, built from the designs of Bramante, which contains some fres- coes by Gaudenzio Ferrari. 27 kil. Rlw Stat., near the confluence of the Lura and Olonna. There is a large church designed by Pellegrini. From here the country is one con- tinuous garden of mulberry - trees, maize-fields, and meadows, until we arrive opposite the Triumphal Arch of the Simplon, close to which is the gate by which Milan is entered. The rly. stat. is some distance farther on, outside the Port Principe Umberto. 14 kil. Milan Stat, (see Rte. 21). ROUTE 18. LAYENO TO VAEESE AND COMO. 30 m. This route may easily be performed in a day, enabling the traveller to visit Varese and Como, or in two, visiting not only the town of Como, but its Lake, and to reach Milan by railway on the second evening. By persons press- ed for time Milan may be reached from Laveno in7hrs. ; leaving the Borromean Islands, Stresa, or Baveiio by the steam- boat which calls at the former about 6*5 A.M., and lands its passengers at 156 Route 18.' — ■ Gavirate — Varese . Sect. III. Laveno at 7 (in summer), from which good public conveyances start for Ya- rese and Como : places can be secm'-ed on board the steamboat. As the steamers do not embark carriages from Baveno, it will be necessary for those who have arrived at the latter place by the Simplon road to send them round to Pallanza, or to Arona. The advantages of this over the preceding route are that it traverses a very beau- tiful comitry, and will enable the tra- veller to visit Yarese, to make a diver- sion to Lugano from Como, to examine its lovely lake, and to see Monza before proceeding to the capital of Lombardy. The distance by water from the Bor- romean Islands to Laveno is about 4 m Laveno {Inns : La Posta^ very fair ; il Moro), the principal town on the eastern side of the Lago Maggiore, is situated on the shores of a small, well-protected bay ; it had of late years been selected as the naval sta- tion for the Austrian war steamers, and had been fortified by the erec- tion of two strong redoubts and an extensive casemated barrack. Laveno is supposed to occupy the site of the Ro- man station of Labienum. The distance from Laveno to Yarese is 13 m., and is performed in about 2 hrs., although for a part of the way the road con- stantly ascends. Leaving the town, we skirt the base of the mountain of La- veno, or Monte Boscero, which forms so fine an object in the landscape from the central parts of the Lago Mag- giore, rising gradually to Gavirate: halfway between these towns a road up the Yal Cuvio branches off on the 1. to Luino. Gavirate is a large village on a rising ground near the W. extremity of the Lake of Yarese, over which the view from here is very beautiful. A great deal of silk is produced hereabouts, and in the neighbourhood are quarries of the variety of marble called marmo majolica by the Milanese, extensively used for ornamental purposes: it is a variety of compact limestone of the age of our lower EngHsh chalk-beds. Be- tween Gravu^ate and Yarese, 7 m., the road ascends as far as Comerio, where it attains an elevation of about 750 ft. above the Lago Maggiore, passing through Luinate in a charming posi- tion, commanding a magnificent pros- pect over the Lakes of Commabbio, Mo- nate, and Yarese ; there are some hand- some villas about Comeria ; a gradual descent of 3 m. from here brings us to Yarese, passing on the 1., but at some distance, the hill on which is situated the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Monte, or the Sagro Monte of Yarese. 13 m. Yaeese. Inns: Hotel de VIJu- rope, very good, and V Angelo, much improved; persons who wish to visit the Sagro Monte will be able to do so in a few lu^s., and on their return proceed to Como, or to arrive at Camer- lata in time for the last train to Milan. The public conveyances from Laveno generally stop here for 2 hrs., which will enable the traveller to go over the town. Coaches leave Yarese for Camerlata (the Stat, of the Como and Milan Ely.) and Como 3 times a day, perform- ing the journey in about 3 hrs., fare 3 Ure ; and others start regularly for La- veno and Luino, corresponding with the calling at these places of the steam- boats on the Lago Maggiore. Ely. from Yarese by Gallarate to Milan, 60 kil., 3 times a day, affords the quickest mode of reaching it in 2 hrs. arese to — KEL. NK\-r>. KIL. Gazzada . . . 7 Parabiago . . 37 Albizzate . . . 11 Rho . . . 46 Gallarate . . . 19 Mussocco . . . 54 Busto Arsizio . 27 Milan . . . . 60 Legnano . . . 32 All round Yarese are numerous villas of the wealthy Milanese, of whom many reside here during the autumn. Yarese is a city of 8000 Inhab., and has an hospital, schools, a theatre, and several factories for the winding of silk from the cocoons. The prin- cipal church, >S'^. Vittore, was built from the designs of Pellegrini: the facade was completed in 1791, by PolacTc. It contains frescoes, and a LOMBARDY. Route 18. — Como. 157 Magdalene, by Morazzone ; a St. George by Cerano. The adjoining oc- tagonal baptistery is in the Lombard style. The chief object of attraction here is the Sanctuary of the Virgin, called La Madoima del Monte, which is situated on a lofty hill about 5 m. to the N.W. of the city. It is said to have been founded in 397 by St. Ambrose, to commemorate a great victory, — not in argument, but in arms, — gained by him on this spot over the Arians. The slaughter is said to have been so great that the heterodox party were exterminated. It was dedi- cated to the Yirgin, and her statue, which was consecrated by St. Ambrose, is still preserved. At the end of the 16th centy. Agaggiari, a Capucliin monk, built, out of fands raised by his exertions, the 14 chapels which stand by the side of the road which leads to the church on the summit. A good road leads to Robarello, a village about 2^ m. from Yarese, where ponies or sedan-chairs may be hired to make the ascent. A pony costs 1 fr. 50 c. ; a chah' 4 fp. The walk up wiU be, to most people, easy. The entrance to the road is through a species of triumphal arch. The fourteen chapels represent the mysteries of the Rosary ; the first five represent the mysteries of joy, the second five the mysteries of grief, the last four the mysteries of glory. They contain coloured statues in stucco, like those atYarallo and Orta (see Siviss Randhook^ Rtes. 117, 118), and fres- coes, by Morazzone^ Bianehi^ Nuvolone^ Legnani, and others of the painters of the Milanese school of the 16th centy. Over the fountain, near the last chapel, is a fine colossal statue of Moses, by Gaetano Monti. Connected with the church is a convent of Augustinian nuns. There are several inns at the top, the number of pilgrims being very considerable. Those who are not tempted from sacred motives may be induced to visit the Santuario by being told that the ascent to it affords the most magnificent views of the rich plain of Lombardy as far as the Apen- nines, of the liigher and lower chains of the Alps, and the lakes of Yarese, Comabbio, Biandrone, Monate, Mag- giore, and Como. Five roads branch off at Yarese : one to the S., which joins the Simplonroad and rly. at G-allarate ; a second, 13 m. to Laveno, where the Lago Maggiore may be crossed to the Borromean Islands, to Stresa, and Baveno on the Sim- plon road ; a tliird to Como, hiUy, about 17 m. ; a fourth by Arcisate to Porto on the lake of Lugano, the last very interesting to geologists ; and a fifth to Milan by Saronno. (See Rte. 22.) On leaving Yarese for Como we pass through the suburb of Biume, which contains several handsome villas of the Milanese aristocracy, and soon descends into the pretty valley of the Olonna. After crossing the river a steep ascent brings us to the town of Malnate, on the edge of the escarpment which bounds the valley on the E. ; a gradual ascent during the next 6 m., as far as the village of Olgiate^ leads to the highest point of the road, about 730 ft. above the Lake of Como. The scenery on the 1. towards the Alps is very fine ; a deep depression marks the site of the Lake of Lugano, through which may be descried the church of San Salvatore, which from the summit of its dolomitic peak towers over the capital of the canton of Ticino. As we approach Como the road runs near the foot of a lower range of sub alpine hills, at the E. extremity of which is the Monte Baradello, remarkable for its fine ruined mediaeval castle, and close to which is the rapidly-increasing village of Camer- lata, where the Stat, of the Como and Milan Rly. is situated. Travellers proceeding to the latter place will stop here, wliilst those going to Como will continue by a steep but a well-managed descent of less than a mile, entering the town by the new gate behind the cathedral, after passing through the long suburb of S. Abondio. Como, 20,000 Inhab. {Inns : the Angela, kept by Sala, has been improved 158 Route 18. — Como : Cathedral Sect. III. of late; cliarges moderate ; it is plea- santly situated on the edge of tlie quay, on the E. side of the little port. On the opposite side of the harbour is the Albergo d' Italia, very fair ; Al- hergo di Como, in the town, near the cathedral. The Corona^ outside the town, second-rate. Families who wish to remain some time at Como may make an economical arrangement, diu*- ing then' stay, at the Angelo ; but there is a most comfortable hotel, with moderate charges, the Albergo delta Kegina d^ IngJiilterra, part of the Yilla d' Este at Cernobbio, about \ an hour from Como, and in a delightful situ- ation ; very clean and comfortable ; excellent table- d'hote j pension, in win- ter 5 frs. a day, in summer 7 : the Church of England service twice every Sunday in a room fitted up as a chapel. Attached to it are baths, large pleasure- grounds, and a water-cm^e establish- ment ; an omnibus runs between it and the rly. stat.) Steamboats leave Como at 8 a.m., 1*30 and 4'45 p.m. (in the summer months) for Colico and the different places on the lake, and return from Colico to Como at 3 and 5'30 a.m., and 3^ P.M., and at 1'30 p.m., per- forming the voyage each way in 3 and 4 hrs. But consult the time-tables of the day. A boat, in correspondence with the lines from Como and Colico, leaves Tremezzina for Lecco at 7*30 and 11'15 A.M., returning at 9*15 a.m. and 4 p.m., which will afford the best means for seeing the Lecco branch of the lake. Diligences. A coach leaves in the after- noon daily for Lecco in 4 hrs., return- ing every morning at 10. To Yarese 3 times a day, in 3 hrs., fare 3 francs. Mailivay to Milan. The station is at Camerlata, about a mile S. of Como, for which omnibuses start to meet every train (3 or 4 a day), fare 50 centimes; but an exorbitant charge is made for luggage, one-half the amount charged for its conveyance by rly. Pleasure-boats for excursions may be hired opposite the Angelo : there is no tariff; 3 fr. an hr. is the understood charge, but by bargaining may be re- duced to 2. Como, situated at one end of the lake called by the ancients the Laeus La- ni, was anciently a town of consider- able importance. A Grreek colony having been settled in this district by Pompeius Strabo and Cornehus Scipio, and subsequently by J. Csesar, Comum was made the cliief seat of this colony. It had hitherto been an inconsider- able place, but from that time it rose to a great degree of prosperity under the name of Comum Novum. It appears from the letters of the younger Pliny, who was born at Comum, that his native city was, in his time, in a very flourisliing state, and in the en- joyment of all the privileges wliich be- longed to a Roman municipium. There are traces of this Greek colony in the names of many places on the lake, e.g. Nesso, Pigra, Lenno, Dorio, &c. Como does not figure in history after the fall of the Empire till the year 1107, about which time it became an independent city, and engaged in wars with Milan, which ended in its total destruction in 1127. It was re- built by Frederic Barbarossa in 1155, and four years afterwards was for- tified. It remained a republic for two centimes, until it fell under the do- minion of the Yiscontis. Since that time Como has followed the fortunes of Milan. Como is a place of considerable trade and industry. Its silk fabrics formerly stood next in rank to those of Milan. The stuffs known by the names of mantini and amorelle had a wide reputation. Time was when the number of looms at work at Como exceeded those of Lyons. Como has manufactures of silks, w^oollens, cotton, yarn and soap. It trades from its port on the lake chiefly with Switzerland. It exports rice, corn, and other agricul- tural produce for the mountain dis- tricts, and large quantities of raw silk in transit through Switzerland, for Grermany and England, by the routes over the Splugen and St. G-othard. The view of Como from the JST. is LOMBARDY. lioiite 18. — Ccnno : Ca thedral. 159 peculiarly striking, the city being spread out on the undulating shore of the lake ; and in the background is the ancient picturesque tower of the Baradello^ connected with one of the most important passages in the liistory of Milan. Ugo Foscolo used to say that it was impossible to study in the neigliboiu'hood of Como ; for the beauty of the landscape, always tempting you to the window, quite prevented you from giving proper attention to your book. The Cathedral, or Duomo, is a fine building, the beauty of the architec- ture being heightened by the richness and solidity of the material used in its construction. It is of m^arble. A long series of architects, of whom Lorenzo de^ Spazi was the first, from 1396 to the last century, have been engaged upon it, and hence a corre- sponding variety in the style of its different parts. The facade was be- gun by Lucchino di Milano, in 1460, and completed, between 1487 and 1526, by Tomaso Rodario, of Ma- roggia. This architect was also an excellent sculptor. Many of the statues were executed by his own hand. But he was criticised by a fellow artist, the celebrated Cristoforo Solaro, nick- named II Gohho, or the Hunchback ; by whose advice the designs for the other parts were altered, perhaps im- proved> The cupola, or dome, was completed about 1732, by Juvara. The fa9ade is Grothic with the ex- ception of " the three entrance doors, which are round- headed and of the richest Lombard style : the fagade is divided by slips, or pilasters, with statues all the way up, enclosing a most magnificent rose window, and studded with rich tribunes and canopies; ele- gant trefoil corbels circulate round the cornice and pinnacles, the centre of wliich chiefly presents a circular temple of small columns on brackets, rising from a tall pedestal and sup- porting a diadem of lesser pinnacles, and is unique." — Hope. The lower portions of the pilasters, and of the fagade, are covered with curious em- blems, some masonic, some religious, interspersed with texts and inscrip- tions in beautiful Grothic letters. Many of these bas-reliefs are types ; e. g. a fountain, a vine, a lily, a churcli upon a hill. Amongst the larger bas-rehcfs, the Adoration of the Magi in the arch of the door should be noticed ; but the most remarkable or- naments of tliis front are the statues of the two Plinys, erected by the Comaschi in the 16th centy. to their " feUow citizens." They are placed under canopies in an ornamental style by Rodario. The younger Phny was much attached to Como, and he resigned a considerable legacy in its favour, founded a school, built a temple, and fully deserves commemora- tion as a benefactor. Verona has also claimed the honour of being the birth- place of the elder Phny ; but all the ancient authorities are in favour of Como, where the Plinian family was long established. Of the younger Pliny, there is no doubt that he was born here. Yery many inscriptions have been found at Como relating to the family : one, much mutilated, is built into the wall of the S. side of the Duomo, relating to a Cains Pli- nius CsDcilius Secundus, who may be (though some doubt has been raised by antiquaries) the individual of whom Como is so justly proud. The other sides of the exterior are in the style of the Renaissance. The lateral doorways, particularly that on the northern side, with angels and fan- ciful columns, are elegant. Both these doorways were executed by Bodario. The arabesques are interspersed with birds, animals, serpents, and children. The 3 windows of each aisle are splen- didly ornamented with arabesques and portraits, in relief, of illustrious men, in the best cinquecento style, and the buttresses betv/een them surmounted by elegant pinnacles. The cupola is in the complicated and overloaded style of the Prench architectm'e of the 18th century. In the interior of the Duomo the nave and two aisles are Italian Gothic, 160 Eoute IS.' — Coma: Cathedral; Brohtto, Sect. III. with finely-groined vaults ; the transepts and choir are the ItaUan of the Re- naissance. The choir is circular, with 5 windows on two tiers, each separated by Corinthian pilasters ; around are placed statues of the patron saints of Como. The painting of the vault of the choir and nave has been recently restored. The large wheel, window over the W. door, with those on each side containing modern stained glass paint- ings of the patron saints in three tiers or compartments, produce a very fine efiect, especially with the evening sun shining through tliem. Paintings, altars, and monuments. — Luini. The Adoration of the Magi, in distemper. In this painting the artist has introduced a giraffe, drawn with tolerable correctness. This seems to show that the animal had then been seen in Italy. — The Virgin, with St. Jerome and 3 other Saints, and his- tories of his hfe, in compartments on the predella. — The Nativity, in distem- per; in this painting Luini' s sweet- ness of conception is exempHfied in the expression of the Virgin mother. — Another pictm'e, St. Christopher and St. Sebastian, attributed to Luini, is ]3robably only a copy. Gaudenzio Ferrari. The Marriage of the Virgin, a fine and unaltered specimen of this master. — The Flight into Egypt, in distemper. Some of the altars and chapels are worthy of notice. The Altar of Santa Lucia, by To- maso di Rodario, who has inscribed his name, 1492. The smaller statues at this altar are beautiful ; so also are the candelabras, which, however, are partially and injudiciously concealed. Altar of St. Ahondio, third Bishop of Como, in gilt and coloured wood ; his statue in the centre ; his miracles in compartments around. Altar of Santa Apollonia, erected by Ludo- vico di Montalto, a canon of the cathedral, in the same rich and sin- gular style. Altar of Sanf Amhrosio, erected in 1482, by John di Veludino, another canon. Altar of the Vergine delV Angelo, a fine altarpiece, repre- senting St. Jerome, St. Francis, St. Carlo, and St. Anthony ; in front, the Canon Raimundi, by whom it was presented. Chapel of the Vergine delV Assunta, called the Altar of the Marchese GaUo. The Baldachino of marble is splendid. A modern altarpiece, by Marchesi. St. Joseph and our Lord as a child; considered as one of the best works of this artist. Altar of the Mater Dolorosa — Altar of the Cenacolo — both with fine sculptures : the first has an Entombment over it. Tomh of Bishop Boniface, of the 14th century. The statue of the bishop, sleeping in death, is striking. Monument of Benedetto Giovio, the historian of Como. Benedetto was the brother of the more celebrated Paolo Griovio. He was the first exact archaeologist who appeared during the revival of letters. One of his most important works, yet in manuscript, is a Thesaurus of Roman inscriptions found in this country ; and it is said that not one spurious inscription has been detected in these collections. He died in 1544, and was buried here with great solemnity. This tomb was erected by his brother in 1556. In the Sacristy is a fine picture by Luini — a Vh^gin and Child, with SS. Jerome, Augustine, Anthony, and Ni- cholas. There are two organs ; one built in 1596, but afterwards much improved ; the other, in 1650, by Father Her- mann, a Grerman Jesuit. The former is rather out of repair, the tone of the latter is exquisite. Just as you enter the Duomo are two animals, neither hons nor tigers, but something be- tween, supporting the basins for holy water. These, without doubt, are remains of the porch of the original cathedral, and supported its columns. The circular Battisterio, on the 1. of the entrance into the church, is attributed to Bramante ; it consists of 8 Corinthian columns of Breccia marble, with the font in the centre, on which are bas-reliefs of the life of the Baptist, but, having neither dome nor cupola, has an unfinished look. LOMBARDY. Boute 18. — Coino : Public Buildings ; Port. 161 The Bishop of Como has an exten- sive diocese, extending over a great portion of Itahan Switzerland. The Duomo was wholly built by voluntary contributions, the Comaschi taking great pride in this chief ornament of theu' town and diocese, and the manner in which the edifice was begun by the people is recorded in the inscrip- tions upon it. By the side of the Duomo stands the BrolettOy or town-hall, built of alternate courses of black and white marble, and with one entire course and a few red patches. This build- ing, completed m 1215, is interest- ing as a memorial of the ancient days of the independence of the Ita- lian republics ; as such a Broletto is, or has existed, in every Lombard city. The lower story is a Loggia upon 4 open arches. Above is a floor with large wuidows, where the \5l1iefs of the mu- nicipahty assembled ; and from the middle window projects the " ringJii- era^^ from wliich they addressed the crowd of citizens convened in parlia- ment below ; for, in the constitutional language of ancient Italy, the parlia- mento was the primary assembly of the democracy, from whence the powers of government originated, and to which the ultimate appeal was to be made. The lower arches here are pointed, the upper circular. Como possesses some other cui'ious mediaeval antiquities, — none more re- markable than the church of San Fe- dele. This building is considered to be of the era of the Lombard kings, and the back part of the exterior is nearly unaltered. It was for some time used as a cathedral before the erection of the present one : it has a triangular arch with straight sides over the entrance, octagonal cupola, and round apsis, small galleries outside under the cupola, and a triforium or gaUery inside for the women. The style is not unlike that of the oldest churches of Co- logne. It contains some very rude but remarkable imagery ; e. g. sl confhct between a dragon and a serpent, flank- ing a doorway (itself most singidar) at the JS". side of the apse. The in- terior has been modernised. In the un- altered parts serpents and lions abound. One monster sustains the basin for holy-water. There is a triptych fres- co of the Yirgin and S. Eoch, of 15th centy., in 1st chapel on 1. Ch. of St. Ahondio. In the suburb of the Annunciata, and "oh the site of the ancient city, a httle beyond the bridge on the Chiasso road, is the ch. of San Carpofero, first Bishop of Como, reckoned the oldest of the place, with a round apse and square tower. The church was first dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and after the death of St. Abondius, third Bishop of Como, in 469, to that holy prelate, buried within its precincts. It was the cathedral of the old city ; it presents single roimd- headed windows, with small pillars and arches, again enclosed in broad flat borders of the richest arabesque and basket-work. Though smaU, it has double aisles, and of the outermost range the pillars are smaller and the arches lower than of the innermost." — Sope. It contains the tombs of several of the bishops of Como. This chiu'ch, fallen into decay, has been recently restored, and now serves as the chapel of the ecclesiastical seminary. The Theatre^ standing behind the Duomo upon the site of the old castle, is a handsome building. The lAceo Infi/periale e Meale, recently completed. The front is adorned with busts of the great men whom Como has produced. It contains reading- rooms, a bust of the celebrated singer Madame Pasta, a collection of natural history, a laboratory, &c., and is well organized and conducted. The Piazza Volta, so caUed from the eminent philosopher, whose statue, by Marchesi, stands in the centre of it, opposite the house in which he lived. Como gave birth to Piazzi the astro- nomer, the discoverer of the planet Ceres, and to Volta, whose discoveries pervade the whole system of physical science. Alessandro Yolta was born 162 Route 18. — Conio : Suburbs. Sect. III. on February 19tli, 1745; he was intended for the law ; but his first work, published in 1769, and which treated upon electricity, sufficiently announced the direction wliich liis mind had permanently received. He died m 1819. Palazzo Giovio, still belonging to that family, contains a number of Ro- man inscriptions and other antiquities — a collection begun by Paolo Griovio. Later times have added several interest- ing rehcs from suppressed churches and convents. Tlie library contains several of the inedited works and papers of Paolo Griovio and of Benedetto the jiistorian. The gates of the city are good specimens of the mihtary architecture of the middle ages, and add much to its picturesque appearance: that which opens towards Milan is the most perfect. The little Port of Como is formed by two piers, each ending in a square pavilion, the view up the lake from which is pleasing. Tlie lake abounds with fish. Of these the most esteemed are the trout, pike, perch, and the agone^ a species of clupea. The agoni migrate periodically from one end of tlie lake to the other. The plan of the city of Como has been assimilated to the shape of a crab, the city being the body, and the two suburbs of Vico and >S'^. Agostino being the claws. Yico is on the N. : it abounds with pleasant walks and handsome villas. The Raimondi or Odes- calclii, Visconti, and Rezzonico Villas are amongst the most splendid ; and farther on the Villa d' JEste, long inha- bited by Queen Carohne of England. Near it is the Gallia, supposed to be upon the site of one of Pliny's villas. The JBorgo di St. Agostino is the manufacturing suburb of Como. Tlie church and the Casa Gralhetta, con- taining some tolerable pictures, are its principal objects of note. In the hill above is the grotto of St. Donato, much resorted to by pilgrims ; and still liigher is Brunate, also a place of fond devotion ; the object of popular vene- ration being an ancient, imcouth image called the Beata Gtiglielmina, an Enghsh princess unknown to history, and who, flying from her native home, became a recluse and died here. The peasant women beheve that by her intercession they obtain help in nursing their children. The inhabitants of Como and its vicinity have been celebrated as workers in stone ever since the days of the Lombards. In the laws of Rothar, one of the earHest of the Lombard kings, mention is made of the "Magistri Comacini," who travelled the country as masons, which they continue to do at the present day. There is a charming walk from Como to Blevio, on the E. shore of the lake. Above Camerlata^ about a mile to the S. of Como, upon a sandstone rock, stands the lofty tower of Baradello. Some ascribe this building, whose cas- tellated walls run down the abrupt sides of the steep, to the Lombard kings. It is more probably of the age of Barbarossa. It is interesting as the monument that witnessed the fall of the first of the dynasties which suc- cessively tyrannised over Milan. This city, one of the first which asserted its independence, was the first amongst the Italian republics to lose it. Her freedom dates from the peace of Constance in 1183 ; her thraldom from 1246, when Pagano delta Torre, the chief of that once powerful family, was inaugurated as the protector of the republic. In the hands of the Torriani the power con- tinued until the accession of Napo- leone della Torre, who, created Anziano Perjpetuo by the people, and Yicar of the Empire by Rodolph of Hapsburgh, governed with absolute authority. The nobles whom he had exiled, guided by Ottone Yisconti, were in possession of the city of Como, and on the 21st of January, 1277, Napoleone and his troop fell into the power of their enemy. The victors spared the lives of Napoleone and of all the members of his family whom they captured ; but the prisoners were put in separate iron cages in the LOMBARDY. Route 1 8 . — Cernohhio — Cadenahhia, 168 Baradello. Wliat iiltunately became of the others is not kno\\ii ; but Napo- leone, after hngermg several years, de- voiired by veriniu, and suffering the most extreme miseiy, probably mad- dened by it, ended liis captivity with his life by dasliing his head against the bars of his prison. Upon the fall of the Torriani arose the power of the Yiscontis. Great numbers of erratic blocks are to be seen in the neighbom-hood of Oomo. The material of these boulders is usually granite or gneiss. Many are found in the mountains between Como and Lecco. One of the most celebrated is on the mountain-pastm'es of San Primo, which stands above the bend of the lake, near Carvagnana and Nesso. Tliis boulder is 59 ft. long, '39i ft. wide, and 26 ft. high. There is another at a short distance from it, smaller, with the country people call the Sasso della Luna. Many have been broken up for building-stones. The pillars of the chiu'ch at Valmadrera, near Lecco, which are 46^ ft. high, and 3 ft. 8 in. in diameter, were cut from an erratic block found upon Mount Val- madrera at the height of 1065 ft. above the level of the lake. The geologist Curioni observed a mass of granite of about 710 cubic ft. some hundred yards above Camnago, 2 m. to the eastward of Como. Excursions on the Lake of Como. The different places on this lake can be most conveniently visited by means of the steamers, of which there are 3 departures daily from either extremity, at 8 A.M. 1*30, and 4*4.5 p.m.; with 2 to Lecco from Tremezzina, at 7*30 and 11*15 A.M. in summer. Leaving Como, the steamer coasts along the W. part of the town, from which there is a good view of the dif- ferent villas, with the hill and tower of Baradello in the background, to Cernohhio (Inn, Regina d' Inghil- teiTa, excellent — see p. 1 58). The prin- cipal villa here is the V. d'Este, once inhabited by Queen Caroline of Bruns- wick, wife of George IV. As the steamer does not always stop at Cer- nohhio, it may be more easily visited by carriage from Como. Coasting along the W. side of the lake, pass Blensu (E.) before reaching Torno (E.), a picturesque village on a projecting point ; crossing from it to Moltrasio (W.) . The large villa here belongs to the Marquis Passalacqua. There is a pretty waterfall, and quarries of a black calcareous slate for roof- ing, which may interest the geologist. Farther pass Toirigia, before reaching Nesso (E.), at the opening of a deep ravine, called the Orrido, with a small uninteresting waterfall. The large villa here belongs to the Trotti family, and is generally known as the V. Pliniana, not because Pliny (the younger) lived here (his country resi- dence having been more probably at Lenno), but on account of a neigh- bouring intermittent spring described in his writings. About 4 m. farther, but on the opposite border of the lake, is Argegno (W.), at the mouth of the Val Intelvi. The high peak over it is the Monte Generoso, the Righi of the Italian lakes, and which can be easily ascended from here. Beyond Argegno are the villages of Colonna and Sala on 1., before reaching a pro- jecting promontory, behind which lies Lenno (W.), the supposed site of one of Pliny the elder's villas. 2 m. far- ther, and on the same side of the lake, is the station of Tremezzina (W.), from which the steamers for Lecco start, and Cadenahhia, in one of the love- liest situations on the Lake of Como, and where tourists had better land, as there is much to see. (Inn: Hotel Bellevue, excellent, charges moderate, clean and comfortable, with the Eng- lish Protestant Service on Sundays.) Close to Cadenahhia is the villa Carlotta (formerly Somariva), belonging to the Duke of Saxe Meiningen, which con- tains groups of Cupid and Psyche, Venus and Paris, and a Magdalen, by Canova; and the bas-reliefs of the Triumphs of Alexander the Great, executed for the first Napoleon, by 164 Route 18, — Bellaggio — Menaggio — Bellano. Sect. III. TTiorwaldsen, to decorate the Arch of the Simplon at Milan. The tomb of Count Somariva, in the chapel, is by Marchesi, Beyond Cadenabbia, and at a short distance from the landing-place of the steamers, is La Majolica (W.), with one of the best hotels and most agreeable summer residences on the lake, the Hotel de Milan ; pension 7 francs a day, exclu- sive of attendance. Several agreeable excursions may be made from here to the Madonnajdi San Martino, the Monte Crecione, &c. On the opposite shore of the lake is the village of Bellaggio (E.), upon the point that separates the two branches of Como and Lecco, and in a lovely situation. There are several excellent inns here, which are much resorted to in summer. The Hotel de la Grande Bretagne, kept by Antonio Mel la, is first-rate for com- fort, cleanliness, and good cookery ; built against the hill, it commands a fine view, especially up the N. branch of the lake ; there is a resident Eng- lish clergyman, who performs the Ser- vice of the Church of England twice a day on Sundays, during the summer, in it. H. Genazzini, and H. de Florence, also good. There are several noble- men's villas at Bellaggio: the F. Giidia, belonging to the King of the Belgians (not shown) ; the Villa Melzi, contain- ing several good works of art ; the Villa Frizzoni, some good paintings; the Villa Serbelloni, above the village, from which are to be obtained some of the finest views over the lake. There is a road from Bellaggio to Erba, by the Valas- sina, which may be made the object of a very picturesque and interest- ing excursion (see Rte. 19); and a path along the lake, through fine scenery^ to Como, but only fit for a good pedestrian, passing by Lezzeno, Carvagnano, Nepo, Blevio, &c. The voyage from Tremezzina or Bellaggio to Lecco will occupy 1^ hr., the scenery on either side being very wild, without any place of importance on the shores. 4 m. beyond Bellaggio is Menaggio (W.). {Bin: La Corona.) From here there is a good road, suited for carriages, distance 6 m., to For- lezza at the E. extremity of the Lake of Lugano. The Villa Vigoni, with some modern works of art, is near Menaggio. From Menaggio the steamer crosses the northern branch of the lake to Varenna (Ei.), (/ww: Albergo Eeale di Marcionni, the best on the eastern shore of the lake.) N. of Varenna are the galleries or tunnels cut through the precipitate cliffs on the lake to allow the great military road of the Stelvio to pass, which are well worthy of a visit, as well as the fine cascade called the Fiume di Latte ; the Castle of Per- ledoj behind Varenna, is a very pic- turesque object. Bellano (E.), about 3 m. N. of Varenna, at the mouth of the Pio- verna, a considerable torrent descend- ing from the Val Sassina, up which a pleasant excursion may be made as far as Bitrohhio, and which will interest the geologist. Above Gittana and beyond Bellano is the Hydropathic Establish- ment of Regoledo, much frequented. Between Bellano and Colico there is no place of importance on the E. shore of the lake, tfie largest village being Olgiasco ; the road being excellent, skirting the base of Monte Legnone (8600 ft. high), which can be ascended from Corenno, 2 m. N. of Dervio, The Monte Legnone forms the finest peak in the landscape of the N. lake. On leaving Bellano, the steamer stops to land passengers at Dervio (E.), a small place at the mouth of the Varrone torrent, and from here crosses the deepest part of the lake to Rezzonico (W.), where there are ruins of a mediaeval castle, and, about 2 m. S. of it, the village of S. Ahbondio, on the shore of the lake. 6 m. N. of Rezzonico is Dongo (W.), a large village at some distance from the shore ; and 3 m. farther, on the W. side, Gravedona (W.), after Como and Lecco the largest town on the Lake of Como, with a ch. of the 13th centy. Behind the village of Domasso (W.), 2 m.' beyond Grave- dona, are some iron-mines, consisting of crystallized carbonate or spathose iron, in the mica-slate rock, A stretch LoMJBARDY. Route l9,—C(mio to Lecco and Bergamo. 165 of 4 m. across the northernmost shal- low bay of the lake is Colico ; from which branch off the roads to Chiavenna, up the valley of the Mera, and the Splugen pass, and to Sondrio and Bormio, through the Val- telline, to the base of the Stelvio pass. The distance to Chiavenna, along which a diligence runs, passing by Riva, is 18 ni. For road to Sondrio and Bormio, and the Stelvio, see Handbook of Swit- zerland, Rte. 87, and Handbook of South Germany y Rte. 214. There are daily diligences to Sondrio, Tirano, and Bormio, following a good road along the banks of the upper Adda, but no longer over the Stelvio, although car- riages may be hired at Bormio for the Baths of Trafoi and ^lals— a journey only to be attempted in summer. CoMo TO Milan by the Carriage- road. [Although few now travel otherwise than by the Railway, it may suit per- sons travelling with vetturino or their OTVTi horses to continue along the old post-road 25 m. (there are no longer post-stations upon it), which passes by Fino. The country here has the full character of the plain of Lombardy — level, exceedingly fertile, and dotted with villas : maize and millet are the prevailing crops. The road is often bordered by rows of trees, and mulberry trees are interspersed in the fields. Sarlassina, a town of some ex- tent. The church which belonged to the suppressed convent of Dominicans, is now converted into an ecclesiasti- cal seminary. The convent annexed to it was founded upon the spot where St. Peter Martyr was slain, as com- memorated in Titian's celebrated pic- ture. About 2 m. further on the road is Cesano, belonging to the Borromeo family, who have a large villa on the outskirts of the village. About 3 m. beyond Barlassina, near Bovisio, and on a shght eminence about a mile on the rt. of the road, stands the Villa of Mombello. It commands a fine view of the plain of Lom- bardy. Here Napoleon established himself after the fall of Yenice. " Ne- gotiations for a final peace were there immediately commenced; before the end of May the powers of the ple- nipotentiaries had been verified, and the work of treaties was in progress. There the future Emperor of the West held his court in more than regal splendour ; the ambassadors of the Em- peror of Grermany, of the Pope, of G-e- noa, Yenice, Naples, Piedmont, and the Swiss republics assembled to examine the claims of the several states which were the subject of discussion ; and there weightier matters were to be de- termined, and dearer interests were at stake, than had ever been submitted to European diplomacy since the iron crown was placed on the brows of Charlemagne. Josephine there received the homage due to the transcendent glories of her youthful husband ; Pau- line displayed those brilliant charms which afterwards shone with so much lustre at the court of the Tuileries ; and the ladies of Italy, captivated by the splendour of the spectacle, hastened to swell the illustrious train, and vied with each other in admiration of those warriors whose deeds had filled the world with their renown. Already Na- poleon acted as a sovereign prince ; his power exceeded that of any living mo- narch ; and he had entered on that dazzling existence which afterwards en- tranced and subdued the world." MILAN (see Route 21).] ROUTE 19. COMO TO LECCO AND BERaAMO. This route, whilst it passes through perhaps the most lovely country in the N. of Italy, will enable the tra- veller who has visited the lakes to pro- ceed to Yenice without passing througli Milan. As we have already remarked, most travellers who now enter Northern Italy from the side of Switzerland do so 166 Route 19. — Erba — Vol Assina. Sect. III. by the great Alpine passes of the Sim- plon and the St. Grothard; to those tliis route may be preferable, as enabling them to continue their examination of the subalpine region and of the other lakes on the southern declivity of the Alps before proceeding to Venice. We have already described in the preceding route the first part of this subalpine region between Laveno and Como. The distance from Como to Lecco is 19 m., tlie road rather hilly, but in every other respect excellent. A good public conveyance leaves Como every day for Lecco in 4 In's., from which the Rly. is now open to Bergamo, Brescia, and Venice. Leaving Como by the Porta Milanese, we soon begin to ascend the hills on the E. of the town, until the road attains its highest level opposite the village of Tavernerio on the L, before which it passes near Camnago, in the modest church of which is the tomb of the celebrated Volta. Fur- ther on, and upon the rt., rises the pointed ridge of Montorfano^ which Avill well repay the geologist for visiting it (it consists of strata of a calcareous breccia of the Eocene period) : the view from the summit is splendid. Conti- nuing our road, we pass through the villages of Cassano and Alhese ; at the entrance of the former, on the 1., is a cu- rious leaning bell- tower. Beyond Albese we soon reach the top of a ridge, from which the panorama over the Pian d'Erba, the Lakes of Alserio, Pusiano, and Anone, backed by the serrated Al- pine peaks of Canzo and of the E-esegone di Lecco, is extremely beautifal. A gradual descent of 2 m. brings us to JSrba, one of the largest towns of the district, and wliich gives its name to it, the Fian d'Erha^ renowned as the most fertile in the upper or hilly re- gion of Lombardy : there are several handsome villas here, especially the Villa Amalia, celebrated by Parini, from the grounds of which the view over the Brianza is incomparable. There is a very fair inn at Erba, where the tourist not pressed for time can take up quarters and make excm^sions, amongst which the most interesting, especially to the geologist, will be to the cavern called the Buco del Piombo, 3 m,, excavated in the secondary oohtic limestone; to the Fian di S, FrimOy celebrated for its huge erratic- blocks; and in the opposite direction to the beautiful villas of Sordo and Inverigo, the latter the masterpiece of the Marquis Cagnola, the celebrated architect ; to Incino^ with its tall Lom- bard camjpanile, on the site of the Ro- man Eorum Licinii ; and to Canzo, and even to Bellagio on the Lake of Como, ascending the very picturesque Val As- sina. [An interesting excursion may be made up this valley from Erba. Tra- versing a succession of clean and thriv- ing towns and villages, Mariago is reached by 2 good carriage roads close to its small lake, abounding in fish. Canzo and Asso, from which the valley takes its name, are very flou- rishing little towns with numerous silkworks. Between Canzo and Asso there is a handsome waterfall. In the centre of the Val Assina runs the Lambro, which passes through tlie Lake of Pusiano and by Monza. E. of Canzo rise the high peaks called the Horns (Corni di Canzo), covered with snow a part of the year. Beyond Asso, passing through the villages of Lasnigo and Barni, we reach Magreglio : at a high level, near it are the sources of the Lambro. Ten minutes beyond this village stands the small chapel of the Madonna di Gliifola, where the Lake of Lecco, thousands of feet below, and the Alps of the ValteUine and G-risons,, thousands of feet above, burst on the tourist's view. From here the descent commences to Bellaggio by a good country road, opened 17 years ago under considerable difficulties ; during the zigzag descent, shaded by chesnut, walnut, and cherry trees, there are beautiful peeps on either hand over the Lakes of Como and Lecco, but the tra- veller ought to have 3 good hours be- fore reacliing Bellaggio to enjoy this lovely descent. This excursion from Pusiano to Bellaggio is about 16 miles. LOMBARDY. Route 20. — Lecco to Milan. 167 and will occupy a good walker about 5J lu's. Instead of returning by the same route the tourist can take the steam- boat at BeUaggio for Como. There is a footpath unattended with danger ; it, however, will require 9^ hours for the pedestrian by a succession of ascents and descents, but the sceneiy is " he- witching y We would not advise a lady to undertake it. The places passed tlu'ough are Lezzeno, Cavagnana, Nesso, Careno, Torno, Blevio. — P. C, 1862.] Two m. beyond Erba the Lam- hro, wliich soon afterwards empties itself into the Lake of Pusiano, is crossed, the road approaching the latter and that of Anone, passing through the villages of Cesana and Suello, and afterwards over a gentle rising ground ; it follows from thence the Ritorto stream, the natural emis- sary of the Lake of Anone, to Malgrate opposite to Lecco. A road of about 1 m. down the rt. bank of the Adda, leads to the bridge at a short distance from tlie town. 17 m. ZecQO (Inns: Croce di Malta^ in an open situation and comfortable, — A. i?., Oct. 1865; Leone cfOro), a town of 8000 Inhab. on the 1. bank of the Adda, where it emerges from the lake at the foot of an elevated range of mountains called the Rese- gone (saw), from its serrated sum- mit, and which forms so picturesque an object in the landscape of the Brianza and Plan d'Erba. Lecco is situated on the shores of the lake, which sometimes inundates its streets : it is a place of considerable trade in silk and iron, of which it has manufactures. The market on Saturdays is a busy scene, and in the Villegiatura season is the place of rendezvous of the rich Milanese families from their villas in the neighbouring Brianza and Plan d'Erba. The branch of the Lake of Como at the extremity of which Lecco is situated is much wilder than the W. arm, and offers little to attract the tourist. A steamer starts once a day in winter, and twice in summer. for Colico and Como, passengers changing boats at Tremezzina. Dili- gences start daily to meet the rly. at Monza. The distance from Lecco to Bergamo is 33 kil. or 21 m., time employed IJ hr s . Leaving Lecco, the line follows the 1. bank of the Adda, wliich here widens so as to form a narrow lake called the Lago di Olginate, and the river itself for 3 m. further, whence it runs in a more easterly direction. Crossing at the foot of the low hilly country, the eastern continuation of the Brianza, beyond the Adda, passing by, 7 kil. Caloizio Stat., 8 kil. Cisano Stat,, 7 kil. Mapeilo Stat., we reach 4 kil. Ponte San Pietro Stat*, on the Bremho, a stream which, rising on the S. declivity of the high alpine ridge that bounds the ValtelHna on the S., empties itself into the Adda near Vajprio after a long course through the Yal Brembana. 7 kil. beyond P. S. Pietro the rly. reaches the Bergamo Stat., close to the lower town (see Rte. 27). ROUTE 20. LECCO TO MILAN. 32 m. Lecco. (See Rte. 19.) The road which connects Lecco with Milan is called the Strada militare, being a continuation of the great mih- tary road across the Stelvio, which is carried along the eastern shore of the Lake of Como. (See Handhook for South Germany, Rte. 214.) There arc pubhc conveyances in the morning and afternoon, to meet the railway Irani s at Monza. On leaving Lecco, the road crosses the Adda, by a bridge of 10 arches, built by Azzo Yisconti in 1335. The river is here flowing Irom the Lake of Lecco into the Lake of Olginate, or Pescate. About six mileo from Lecco, a little to the rt. of the road, is the village of Greghentino, 168 Route 21. — 'Como to Milan by Monza. Sect. III. which gives its name to the neighbour- ing valley. Not far from this place, in descending to the Lake of Olginate, may be seen an enormous assemblage of erratic boulders. A geologist has described the spot by saying that it looks Hke a battle-field in the war of the giants. The road all the way from Lecco to Monza sku'ts the district which is known by the name of La Brianza, the last elevations of the Alps, or what may be called the Subalpine hills, towards the great plain of Lombardy. Its boundaries are not exactly fixed, but generally the Bri- anza is held to include the hilly coun- try between the Adda and the Lambro, from Lecco and Yalmadrera, dowTi to Monza, and on the W. of the Lambro, from the neighbom^hood of Arosio to Como, and the foot of the mountains lying between the Lakes of Como and Lecco. These mountains enclose the head valley of the Lambro, called the Vallasina. The Brianza is celebrated for its richness and beauty : its intelli- gent inhabitants are masters of the art of cultivating the mulberry and rear- ing the silkworm, as well as in the preparation of the raw article for manu- facture. The finest silk in Lombardy is produced in this district. Carsaniga. To the eastward of this lies the Montorobbio, wliich produces the best wine of the Milanese. Arcore. There is a fine villa belong- ing to the d'Adda family here. The chapel near the park gate is a hand- some modern building in the cinque- cento style : in it is a handsome monu- ment to a young Countess d'Adda, by the Swiss sculptor Vela, and a fine Madonna over the altar by the same distinguished artist. Before reaching Monza the road runs along the Koyal park on the rt. Monza. See Ete. 21. The Strada mihtare for half the distance to Milan runs nearly parallel to, and at a short distance from, the railroad. Half-way to Milan it crosses it, and thence runs in a straight line to Loreto, where it falls into the Bergamo and Brescia road, which enters Milan by the Porta Orientale. The old post-road enters Milan by the Porta Nuova, running during the last two miles close by the side of the canal of theMartesana. To the rt. of the road, about two miles after having crossed the railroad, is La Bicocca, where the French, under Lautrec, were defeated by the ImperiaHsts, 27th April, 1522. IJ MILAN. See Eoute 21. ROUTE 21. COMO TO MILAN, BY MONZA- -EAIl. Como to KIL. Desio . . . KIL . . 25 Cucciago . . Camnago'. . Seregno '. . . . 16 . . 22 Monza. . . Sesto . . . . . 32 . . 38 Milan . . . . . 45 28 miles. Railway from Camerlata near Como to Milan : trains four times a-day ; time employed IJ hour. An omnibus leaves Como to meet every train. Omnibuses are in attendance at all the stations to convey passengers to the towns in the Brianza. Leaving Camerlata, the Rly. runs through a beautiful country, covered with rich vegetation. The roots of the Alps extend in successive ranges before us ; and the foregrounds, especially near Como, are beautiful. The vegeta- tion is luxuriant, and, hke all in the neighbourhood of the lake, more south- ern than that which the traveller will find at Milan. Mulberry- trees abound, the district being celebrated for its silk ; and the exotics, naturalised by the more wealthy inhabitants, who de- Hght in their gardens, flourish in the utmost luxuriance. The Cataljpa is very common. 7 kil. Cucciago Stat., about 2 m. on the 1. of which is Cantuj in a rich district of the Brianza. The bell-tower of the church, with its projecting battlements, is slender and taU. In the middle ages it was used as a beacon, corresponding with that upon the Monte di Baradello. The fires blazing on the summit have often announced the advance of the LOMBARDY. Route 21. — Monza : Duo?no, 169 Milanese against the Comaschi during their frequent wars ; and the Bara- dello, equally by its fires, gave notice of the approach of any enemy on the side of the lake. Galliano, near Cantti, has a curious Lombard church, now a barn. It contains Christian inscriptions of the 4th centy. Some ancient frescoes, executed in tlie 11th, were painted by order of Arimbert, the celebrated Archbishop of Milan. They contain, as it is supposed, portraits of the Emperor Henry and liis wife Cune- gunda. The baptistery is remarkable. The building was sold as national pro- perty during the French occupation. From Cucciago the rlwy. follows the Severo torrent as far as 9 kil. Camnago Stat. At Meda, a short distance on the 1., are the ruins of an extensive monastery. 6 kil. Seregno Stat. 2 m. on the 1. is the village of Carate, on a rising ground above the Lambro ; an agreeable excur- sion may be made from here to Inve- rlgo, the beautiful villa of the Marquis Cagnola, a fine specimen of his archi- tecture. The view fi'om the top of it commands the entire region of the Brianza. 3 kil. Desio Stat. Here the Torriani were entirely routed by the Viscontis in 1277. The Villa Traversa, with a fine garden, is the principal object to be visited in Desio. It contains some curious Roman inscriptions. 7 kil. MoNZA Stat, at the S. extremity of the town. (Inns : II Falcone, tolerable ; I'Angelo.) This city, the ancient Mo- doetia, is divided into two nearly equal parts by the Lambro. It has a Pop. of 16,000. The BrolettOy or town-haU, is attri- buted to Frederick Barbarossa : some say it was a portion of a palace built by him. It is of ItaHan Gothic, with a Ringhiera between two handsome win- dows on the S. side. Annexed to it is a fine and lofty campanile, with forked battlements. The Cathedral or Buomo, " On the spot where this building now stands Theodolinda erected, in 595, a splendid temple in honour of St. John the Bap- tist. The church of Theodohnda was not on the Latin plan, but on the Byzan- tine. It was an equilateral cross, sur- mounted by a dome. For above 600 years this building remained unaltered. At the close of the 13th centy. Matteo Magno Yisconti, Lord of Milan, with the assistance of the oblations of tlie people, undertook the reconstruction of the church upon a larger scale. But he left liis work unfinished ; for the fa9ade was not commenced till the year 1396. In that year the celebrated ar- chitect, Matteo di Campione, was em- ployed to give a design for the fa9ade and he constructed it in the form which it exhibits at present. This fa9ade is a curious specimen of the cabinet style prevalent in Italy at that period ; a style which attempts to please the eye rather by a subdivision of parts, and a variety of patterns, in marbles of dif- ferent shapes and colours, than by the form of the building itself. In the in- terior some of the capitals of the pillars are ornamented with barbarous figures, and must be older than the 14th centy. Frisi is of opinion that they formed no part of the Lombard church, but had belonged to some 11th centy. building, and were removed from thence to their present situation." — G, Knig?d. The Pallioto, or front of the altar, of silver-gilt, perhaps of the 10th centy., is entirely covered with Scripture his- tories, inlaid with enamel and coarse gems. The Cantorie, or galleries for the singers, on either side of the nave, are of rich Gothic work, and are worthy of attention, as well as the woodwork of the choir. In the chapel in the adjoining cemetery is the shrivelled corpse of Ettore Yisconti (a natural son of Bernabo), a partisan, who be- came, for a short time, one of the leaders of Milan. Expelled by Duke Filippo Maria, he seized the Castle of Monza, where a shot from a springall broke his leg, an injury of which he died (1413) : he was buried in this ba- silica ; and his body having been acci- dentally disinterred, it has since re- mained above ground. 170 Route 21. — Monza : Jbuomo ; Relics, Sect. III. Tlieodolinda, whose memory, like those of Bertha in Switzerland, and Eli- zabeth in England, was cherished by the people beyond that of any male sove- reign, Charlemagne himself scarcely ex- cepted, and whose beauty, wisdom, and piety were all equally transcendent, was the daughter of Gi-aribold King of the Bavarians, and became the wife of An- tharis King of the Lombards (589). Upon the death of Autharis, which happened six years after their mar- riage, the Lombards offered the crown to Theodolinda, with the intimation that whomsoever she would select for her husband they would acknowledge as their sovereign. She chose Agelul- phus (sometimes called Astolf) Duke of Turin. Valiant and ambitious, he con- templated becommg master of Eome ; but Theodolinda diverted him from this enterprise. She thus earned the gratitude and the friendship of Pope Gregory the Great, who dedicated his Dialogues to her. The Sacristy of the Duomo is one of the most curious of mediaeval museums. It has been much plundered, especially during the repubhcan rule at the end of the last centy. The following are some ofthe more remarkable objects which it still contains : — Theodolinda s aUj orjlabellum, of painted leather, with a massive, metallic, enamelled handle. Her comb, ornamented with gold fihgree and emeralds. Her crotvn, a plain diadem set with coarse gems. Theodo- linda^s hen and chickens^ a species of tray of silver gilt, upon which are the figures of the Chioccia^ or Chuclcy^ and her seven chickens. The hen's eyes are of rubies. It is said by antiqua- ries to typify either the arch-priest and chapter of the church of Monza, or the seven provinces of the Lom- bard kmgdom. The probability is that this gift of the Queen was in fact only a plateau or ornament for her banquet table. The list of relics sent hy Pope Gregory the Great to Theodolinda^ written upon papyrus : some say it is his autograph. The celebrated anti- quary Maffei caUs this the " king of papyri." One of these relics consists of chops of oiltakenfromthelamps burning before the tombs of the martyrs in the catacombs. Theodolinda! s JSvangelista- Hum or Gosjpel-hooTc, The binding is of gold and silver gilt, rudely set with rough stones, glass placed over coloured foil, and fine ancient intaglios, characteristic of the age of transition from the Ro- man to mediaeval times. A cross, given to the Queen by the Pope upon the occasion of the baptism of her eldest child : it is now worn by the arch-priest on certain great occasions and festivals. It is composed, in front, of rock crystal; the back is worked in gold filigree. Tlieodolinda! s cup, said to be hollowed out of a sohd sappliire. It is about three inches in diameter. The colom* ofthe material (probably veiy fine glass, like the catino of Genoa) is exceedingly rich. The Gotliic setting bears the date of 1490. In a curious bas-relief over the centre doorway of the church Theodolinda is represented offering her gifts. The Cross, or pectoral, employed in the coronation of the kings of Italy, and which it was the custom to hang round the neck of the sovereign. It is massive, and richly decorated — not merely with uncut stones, but with ancient engraved gems ; amongst others, there is appended to it an amethyst, exhibiting a Diana, of excellent work- manship. The Sacramentary of Berengarius King of Italy. This monarch is some- times reckoned as Berengarius I. amongst the Roman emperors. The son of Everard Duke of Friuli, Be- rengarius obtained his authority upon the division of the empire which took place on the death of Charles the Eat, in 888. The coverings of this book are of pierced ivory, plates of gold placed beneath shining between the interstices. On one side are scrolls interlaced, springing from birds ; on the other are runic knots, elaborately interlaced, springing from a central ornament composed of four grotesque animals, from whose mouths the root of each knot is seen to issue* These sin- LOMBARDY. tloute 21, — Monza: Duomo ; Iron Crown. 171 gular carvings are probably Teutonic ; for, excepting a greater delicacy in tlie workmanship, they are exactly such as are found upon Scandinavian monu- ments. The services which the book contains stand as they were composed by Pope Gregory ; and in it may be found tlie collects of our own Liturgy. Another very cm'ious volume is the JEvangeUstarmm of Aribert or Heribert, Abp. of MHan (1018-1045). Three ivory diptijchs, of much better workmansliip than is usually the case with sculptures of this description. The first and most curious represents, on one leaf, a poet or a pliilosopher in his study ; on the other a muse striking the lyre with the plectrum. The whole is finely carved. Claudian and Auso- nius are both candidates for the por- trait. Antiquaries give it to Boethius, upon conjectui^e. The second repre- sents two figures in consular robes, with the Roman eagle, and other in- signia. The original names have been effaced, and those of Pope G-regoiy and David substituted. The thh-d is remarkable for the boldness of the relief. The prmcipal figures are an emperor with the paludamentum, and a female in rich attu'e. The celebrated Iron Croton which was earned off by the Austrians, on their expulsion from Lombardy, to Mantua in May, 1859, has been re- turned here, where it is preserved, as well as some pieces of the true cross, of the sponge, of the Holy Sepul- clu'e, and of the reed held by Christ ; and one of the thorns of the crown. The thin plate or fillet of iron which lined the diadem, and from which the crown derived its name, is supposed to have been hammered from one of the nails employed at the Crucifixion ; and hence the cro^^Tl is also called II sacro Chiodo. It may be readily supposed that there is no foundation for the belief in such an origin, and the Church of Milan opposed the tradition ; but their objections were overcome by the congregation " of the Rites" at Rome, by whom the relic was pronounced to be authentic, and, when it was exhibited, tapers were lighted and much ceremony observed. The traditions of Monza relate that this crown was given by Gregory the Great to Queen Theodolinda ; yet nothing is really known respecting ita origin, nor was it regularly used in the coronation of the kings of Italy* Henry YII. (or Henry of Luxemburg) is the first who is known with any certainty to have worn it, 1311. The crown was carried for that purpose to Milan, in spite of the remonstrances of the inhabitants of Monza. Charles V. was the last of the later emperors crowned with it ; and the crown re- mained quietly as a relic in the Tesoro, until Napoleon, anxious to connect his dignity with the recollections of the past, placed it with his own hands upon his head, disdaining to receive it from the Bishop, and using the words, " Dieu me Va donne, gars a qui la touclie." It has been since used at the corona- tion of the two last Emperors of Aus- tria, and formed part of the royal in- signia of the Lombardo-Yenetian king- dom, until its recent removal. A curious las-relief in the chapel of 8an StefoMO represents the coronation of an Emperor. The six Electors as- sisting are the Ai'chbishop of Cologne, as Arch- Chancellor of Italy ; the Duke of Saxony ; the Archbishop of Treves ; the Landgrave or Count Palatine of the Rhine; the Archbishop of May* ence; and the Elector of Branden- burg. The seventh Elector, the King of Bohemia, is absent, and this circum- stance shows that the bas-relief is earlier than 1290, when he was ad- mitted into the Electoral College. It will be noticed that the crovm which the Arch-Priest of Monza is here re- presented to place on tlie head of the Emperor is not the Iron CrowlQ, but one decorated with fleiu-ons. This bas-relief seems, from its inscription, to have been put up by the people of Monza as a memorial of their right to have the coronation performed here, in preference to Milan. The chapel of S^ Maria del Rosario contains some cu- rious frescoes, representing events in I 2 172 Route 21. — Milan : Inns, Sect. III. the history of TheodoHnda, by one Trosi of Monza, bearing date 1444 The only other ch. of Monza worth notice, and tliis desecrated, is Santa Maria in Strada^ remarkable for its very elaborate W. front in terracotta, and fine rose window. The Palace of Monza is an extensive edifice, but has nothing in or about it (excepting the size of the apartments) above a country mansion. The park is large, well laid out, and abounds in game. The gardens are very rich in exotic plants. It was in former times the country residence of the Yiceroy, and is now occasionally that of the King of Sardinia. The Railroad has rendered Monza almost a suburb of Milan. Trains run six times a day in 20 minutes. 6 kil. Sesto Stat., in a very fertile plain, with many country-seats around. 8 kil. Milan Stat. — There is" one great and central station for passen- gers in every direction, a very hand- some edifice, outside the New Gate or Porta Principe Umberto, on the N. side of the city. Nothing can be better than the arrangements here for the comfort and convenience of travel- lers, presenting a singular contrast in this respect, and particularly as regards order and cleanhness, with our metro- politan stations at home. There is a good Bufiet attached to it. Omnibuses from tlie principal hotels are in at- tendance on the arrival of the trains (1 fr. including luggage), and plenty of broughams and open cabs. This fine station is now rendered easily accessible since the new gate has been cut through the ramparts. Fares of hackney cabs, 1 fr. 50 cent, to 2 frs., according to the quantity of luggage. ^o^eZ^.— The JEC, de la Ville (not to be confounded with the Hotel de Milan), kept by Baer, in the Corso di Vittorio Emanuele, one of the best situ- ations in Milan, open and airy, is an ex- cellent house, and handsomely fitted up with every cleanhness and comfort ; a good table- d'hote at 4^ fr. without wine; cofiee and reading room, master and waiters speaking Enghsh ; the other charges being — breakfast with eggs 2 frs., without IJ fr. ; dejeuner a la fourchette, 3 frs. ; bedrooms from 3 frs. upwards ; dinner in apartments 7 frs. without wine ; service 1 fr. a day. The Alb ergo Re ale, in the Contrada dei Tre Re, near the Cathedral, kept by Bruschetti, is also a first-rate hotel, clean and quiet, with a very obhging landlord, and an excellent table -d'h6te at 4 frs. Bruschetti speaks English as well as his servants. Both these hotels are well suited for English families. H. Cavour, nearest to the Ely. Stat., is elegantly and comfortably fitted up, and spotlessly clean, in an airy and agreeable situation on the Public Gar- dens, and at a short distance from the principal theatres and clubs. Table- d'hote, 5 frs., without wine : breakfast with eggs, 2 frs. ; service 1 fr. perdiem. News, i^eading and smoking-room, with a large supply of Enghsh, French, and Italian newspapers. H, de la Gran JBretagna, in the Via di Torino, in the centre of the city, much improved, " is clean, comfortable, and with a civil landlord." Bedrooms from 2 frs. and upwards ; good table- d'hote at 4 frs. including wine. H. Manese, a small house, very clean and comfortable, with good living, overlooking the public gardens, "charges reasonable." — C. R., Jan., 1869. The K. de Milan et Marino, in the Via del Giardino, not far from La Scala theatre. Table d'-h6te 4 frs. ; pension at 8 frs. a day. General good management. Landlord speaks English. H. Reichman, in the Corso di Porta Romana, is mostly frequented by Ger- mans and commercial travellers, but inferior to the four first, and without their comforts, although with as high La JPension Suisse, U^uropa, La Roma, and San Marco, all frequented more by Italian famihes : the latter, which is near the post-office, is well spoken of. Carriages may be hired for the day or job. A good carriage for 4 frs. all THE l"'"''^^ OF iMt imiVERSlir Uf iLLlSOlS THE imm OFTHI f«NIViRI«ITY m «W«Wi LOMBARDY. Route 2 1 . — Milan : Convei/ances. 177 lioiir, half a day for about 12 fr., and the buonamano of 2 fr. to the ch'iver. Fiacres perhaps the best in Italy. Lists of the fares are placed inside ; 75 cent, a course or for i an hour, and H an hour ; 25 c for each parcel of lug- gage placed outside. Omnibuses. There are numerous lines of these vehicles to every quarter of the tow^l, starting from the Piazza, del Duomo to the gates ; fares, from the Cathedral to all the gates, 10 c. witliin the walls, and 25 from the Ely. Stat., exclusive of a charge for luggage, according to a printed, tarif. During the summer the fashionable evening drive is in the Corso di Porta Orient ale, now Y. Emmanuele, and along the Boulevard between it and Porta Nuova; particularly on Sundays and Thursdays, the greatest Corso being on the first Sunday in Lent. This city is the centre of business ; and all pecuniaiy transactions can be well managed here. The Gambia Monete^ or money-changers, are nu- merous ; most live near the Duomo. The value of foreign coins is printed daily, with the rates of exchange on different countries, so that the traveller runs little risk of being imposed upon. The Post- Office is in the Via dei Eastrelli, near the Duomo. It opens at 8 A.M., when letters are deUvered, and shuts at 10-30 p.m. The mail which carries the English letters (through Paris) is that by Turin : it leaves daily at 7*10 p.m., and arrives about midday. Between Milan and London a letter takes 2 days. Pre- payment, 60 c, is not absolutely neces- sary, but unpaid letters are charged double on dehvery in France and England, as from all other parts of the Italian kingdom. The Telegraph Office is situated in the Piazza dei Mercanti, near the Exchange ; open at all hours. The principal Puhlic Conveyances are the folio wmg: — Lucerne^ by Bellinzona and the St. Gothard. By rly. to Camerlata near Como, and from there by dihgence. Places may be secured in Milan or at Camerlata. These dil. go on du'ect, and arrive at Fluellen on the Lake of Lucerne in 24 hrs. Zurich by Como, Chiavenna, Coire, and from there by Ely. From Como, by the steamboats to Colieo, whence the diligence starts by Chiavennaand the Splugen Pass, arriving in time at Coire for the Ely. train to Zurich. — Dihgence daily by Bellinzona and the Bernardino Pass. The latter, hke that to Lucerne, now starts from Camerlata. As the hours of starting of these dili- gences vary according to the season, refer to the Time-tables of the day. Diligences to Sondrio, Bormio, in the Yaltellina, &c., twice a-day, in cor- respondence with the Ely. to Como and the boats on the Lake. Lausanne and Geneva. To Arona by rly., and from there by diligence to Domo d' Ossola, the Simplon, to Sierre (where the rly. commences), to Yevay, Lausanne, and Greneva ; the coach leaving Arona corresponds with the rly. train of 7*10 P.M. from Milan, and reaches Domo d' Ossola at 6*40 a.m. (crossing the Simplon by daylight), arriving at Sierre at 11 P.M., in time for the rly. train to Greneva. There is a second diligence, which goes to Sierre, where passengers sleep, leavmg Milan at the same horn' (7*45), reaching Lau- sanne at 8*25, and Geneva at 10*22 A.M. on the 2nd day. Railivays to JPiacenza, 'Parma, Mo' dena, Bologna, Ancona, and Brindisi. The rly. trains to Monza and Como run 5 times a-day. The railroad to Venice is open all the way, by Bergamo, Brescia, Ve- rona, Padua, Venice, and from the latter to Treviso, Conegliano, Udine, Trieste, and Vienna. There are three trains daily, which leave Milan at 6*25, 11*15 A.M., and 4 p.m., reaching Venice at 4*55, 9*20, and Exp., 8*15 p.m.; to Cremona by Treviglio and Crema ; to Genoa by Pavia, Voghera, and Novi ; to Gallarate, Sesto Calende, and Varese. British Vice- Consul, Mr. T. W. Kelly, Via dei 3 Alberghi. I 3 178 Route 21. — Milan : Histoi'^, Sect. III. JPJiysicians, — There are 4 physicians who have lived in England and speak English — Dr. Capelli, who lives in the Corsia del Griardino ; Mr. Walker, Member of the London College of Sur- geons, 36, Via della Passarella, near the Hotel de la ViUe; Dr. Sannderson, and Dr. Sapohni, consulting physician to the King, in the Palazzo Eeale Apothecaries and Chemists. — Kiva, Palazzi, 7, Piazza della Scala; Mon- teggia, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, oppo- site the Hotel de la Yille ; Parniano di Brefa, good. Protestant Divine Service. The Ch. of England service is celebrated by the Re\^T. H. G-arrod, in a building granted by the (xovernment and appropriately fitted up, at No. 13, Via di San Grio- vanni in Conca, every Sunday at 11 a.m. and 7 P.M., the Holy Sacrament is ad- ministered on the 1st and 3rd Sundays of every month. There are about 150 resident British Protestants in Milan, and 8000 passing annually. The chap- lain holds his appointment from the Colonial and Continental Church So- ciety of London, but the expenses are met by voluntary subscriptions. Evan- gelical Ch., a newly- erected elegant edifice in the Via Carlo Porta. Ser- vice on Sundays at 10 A.M. in German, and at mid- day in French. Free JEvan- gelical Ch., No. 8, Via Eiori Cliiari. Service on Sundays at mid-day, fol- lowed by the Holy Sacrament and a sermon ; service also at 8 p.m. Restaurateurs and Cafes. — La Sorsa, near La Scala Theatre, is the best; this cafe is well supphed with news- papers ; Biffi, in the Passagia di Vit- torio Emanuele; L^Furopa, in the Corso V. Emanuele. Boole sellers. — 'Artaria and Co., in the Via Santa Margherita, No. 1110, for Guide-books, maps of the Austrian Mili- tary Survey, engravings, &c. ; Messrs. Artaria are obhging, and well supplied with all works necessary for travellers in Italy and Switzerland, Handbooks, &c., and are agents for the sale of Sini- gaglia's and otlier photographic views of Milan, of Pozzi's photographs of the drawings of the old masters which are preserved in the Brera and Ambrosian Libraries, and of Leonardo da Vinci's and Luini's frescoes. Dotti and Cas- tiglione, near the Hotel de la Villa, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, No. 36, en- gravings, photographs, drawing ma- terials; speak Enghsh. Dumolard freres, in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, French hooJcsellers. The Pop. of Milan in 1868 amounted to 217,600, or including the suburbs 267,143. Milan, founded by the Insubrian Gauls, became, in point of splendour, the second city of Italy, fiUed with temples, baths, theatres, statues, and all the structures required for the dig- nity and luxury of a great capital. Ausonius, who flourished under the Emperor Gratian, towards the end of the fom^th century, assigns to it the rank of the sixth city in the Empire. He describes it in these Hues : — " Et Mediolani mira omnia, — copia rerum : Innumerae, cultaeque domus, fecunda virorum Ingenia, antiqui mores. Tum duplice muro Amplificata loci species, populique voluptas Circus, et inclusi moles cuneata theatri : Templa, Platinseque arces, opulensque moneta, Et regio Herculei Celebris sub honore lavacri, Cunctaque marmoreis ornata peristyla signis, Ma?niaque in valli formam circiimdata labro ; Omnia, quae magnis operum velut lemula formis Excellunt : nee juncta premit vicinia Romae. Procopius, a century later, speaks of Mediolanum as one of the first cities of the West, and inferior only to Eome in population and extent. Its ancient edifices and monuments have all disappeared, save one portico {see San Lorenzo) ; a column {see Sant' Ambrogio) ; a piece of massive wall, forming part of the Monasterio Mag- giore; two rather dubious heads, called Quintus and Rufus, in the arches of the Corsia di Porta Nova ; and, lastly, the Om de Preja., a corruption of Uomo di Pietra, or in Milanese Homin de Free, now inserted in the wall of a house in the Via Vittorio Emanuele, between the first and second stories. So far as can be judged, he is a Roman of the lower empire. The paucity of Roman remains at LOMBARDY. lioufe 21. — Milan : Roman Bemains, 179 Milan must be attributed to the cala- mities which the city has sustained. It was sacked by Attila, a.d. 452, in the invasion which occasioned the founda- tion of Venice. But the great destruc- tion was effected after the surrender of Milan to Frederick I., 1162 ; when his vengeance, co-operating with, or rather instigated by, the jealousies of the sui'- rounding cities, Pavia, Cremona, Lodi, Conio, Novara, rased it to the groimd. On Palm Sunday, in that fatal year when the Emperor departed in triumph for Pavia, the site of the great city was to be recognised only by the Basilica of Sant' Ambrogio, and some other chm'ches, which were left standing in the midst of the ruins ; and the in- habitants being dispersed in four ad- joining villages, the name of Milan was effaced from the Lombard community. But this event was followed by the great Lombard league, the confederacy against the imperial authority ; and in the diet, or parhament, held at Pontida, 1167, the deputies of the combined cities determined to bring back the Milanese to their ancient seat, which, on the 27th April, 1167, was effected by the combined forces of Cremona, Brescia, Bergamo, Mantua, and Ve- rona, and the city speedily rose again with unwonted energy and power. Tliis remarkable event was commemo- rated in the coeval bas-rehefs of the Forta Romana, a venerable gateway wliich stood till 1810-12. These sculptm-es have, however, been preserved by being let into the walls of houses (near the bridge) erected on the site of the gate, and are curious as illustrating one of the most memorable passages m the chro- nicles of mediaeval Italy. The Mi- lanese around, on foot and on horse- back, are seen proceeding to the re- erected city, with an inscription pointing out that there they are to make their stay. " Fata vetant ultra procedere, stabimus ergo." The cities of " Cremona," " Brixia," and *' Ber- gamum" are represented by tm'reted gateways, out of which come forth their allies. — *'Fra' Giacobo," thus written, bears the banner of Milan. The artist " Anselmus" has also represented him- self, adding an inscription, in which he either assumes to himself the appella- tion of Daedalus, or ascribes to himself Daedahan skill; a whimsical vanity, the sculpture being of the rudest kind. In another part is a figure in a consular or magisterial robe, surmounting a strange monster with a huge grinning face and bats' wings, which, according to the tradition of Milan, represents tlie Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. This Forta Romana stood in the line of walls erected by the Milanese when they rebuilt the city. About eighty years after the rebuild- ing of the city commenced the rule of the family of della Torre, by the elec- tion of Pagano, lord of Vail Assina, as protector; and then followed that of the Viscontis and Sforzas. Dm'ing the later part of this period Milan attained a state of great prosperity, and became celebrated for its manufac- tures of armour, dress, and ornaments. " Well was he arm'd, from head to heel, In mail and plate of Milan steel." Milan then set the fashion to the rest of Europe ; hence the word milli' ner. After the extinction of the family of Sforza, Milan fell, in 1535, under the power of the Emperor Charles V., who, in 1549, fixed the succession to the duchy of Milan in his son Pliilip II. It remained under the government of the Spaniards until the death of the last King of Spain of the Austrian line, when it became an object of contention between France and Austria, and was finally given to the latter by the treaty of Utrecht, 1713. In the hands of Austria it remained, imtil May, 1859, with a few interruptions, the principal one of which was the occupation of Milan by the French, and the esta- blishment of the kingdom of Italy, of which Milan was made the capital. The extent of Milan, when it was rebuilt after its destruction by Fre- derick Barbarossa, is marked by the canal, which, entering on the N. side, runs nearly round the central part of the modern city. Some of the 180 Route 21. — Milan: City Gates. Sect. III. gates of this first line of fortifications are preserved — the Porta Nuova and Porta Ticinese — and have been re- cently restored. The wall or rampart, called the bastione, which now en- circles Milan, except on that side which was protected by the Castle, was built by the Spaniards in 1555. The greater portion of the ground be- tween this wall and the canal is occu- pied by gardens. All round, just out- side this wall, runs the road called the Strada di Circonvallazione. The circuit of the modern city is about 7f m. Certain wider streets which radiate from the centre of the town are called " com;" the continuations of these beyond the bridges which cross the canal to the present Hue of wall are called borghi. The streets, in many places which run parallel to and immediately within the canal, retain the name of terraggi, or ter- races. The Piazze or squares before the churches are in Milanese called *'pasquee" (pascua), and some open spaces, where several streets meet, are called "carobbio" (quadi'ivium). The average height of Milan above the sea is 450 feet. Milan has now 12 gates. On the N. side is the Porta Comasina, or Garibaldi, erected in 1826-1828 by the merchants, from a design of Moraglia. A short distance beyond is the new extra-mural cemetery or Camipo santo. Next to this, towards the E., is the Porta Nuova, built in 1810, from a design of Zanoia. The view of the Alps from the rampart near this gate is very fine. The ancient Porta Nuova of the mediaeval city, near the entrance to the Public Grardens, has been restored; it consists of 2 round-headed arches ; some Roman bas-reliefs and inscrip- tions are let into its walls. Beyond the Porta Nuova a new gate was opened 1865, the Porta Principe Umberto, cutting through the city rampart in order to form a more direct communication from the Rly. Stat. ; it opens on the Griardino Publico : the public drive or boulevard is carried over it on an iron viaduct. It is by this gate that all travellers by rly. enter Milan. At the N.E. angle of the rampart is the Porta Orient ale, now di Venezia, begun in 1828, from a design of Van- tini, the architect of the Campo Santo at Brescia. Near the centre of the E. side is the Porta Tosa or Vittoria. At the S.E. angle of the rampart is the Porta Montana, built by the Mi- lanese, from a design of Bassi, in 1598, to welcome the arrival of Margaret of Austria, the wife of Philip III. of Spain. Just within the gate is the an- cient emporium (sciostra romana) for merchandize coming from Cremona and Piacenza. In the S. side of the rampart, next to the Porta Romana, is the Porta Vigentina, so called from the village of Vigentino, which lies on this road, at a short distance. The gate situated nearly in the centre of tlie S. side of the ramparts is the Porta Ludovica, so called in honour of Ludivico il Moro. Near the W. end of the S. face of the rampart, and to where it forms an angle with the S.W. face, is the Porta Ticinese, the gate leading to Pavia, and by which Bonaparte entered after the battle of Marengo, whence for a short time it was called the Porta Marengo. Its Ionic portico was built in 1815, from a design of the Marquis Ca- gnola. The mediaeval Porta Ticinese, on the borders of the Canal, but nearer the centre of the city, has been recently rebuilt on the original plan. The Porta Vercellina, now di Ma- genta, at the W. extremity of the city, was built in great haste, with materials from the CasteUo, after a design of Canonica's, to receive Napoleon when he came to assume the iron crown. Porta Tanaglia, the N.W. gate lead- ing to the Simplon road, received its name from a fortified work, so caUed, which once stood near it. Between the Porta TanagHa and the Porta di Magenta there is no rampart, the city having been protected on this LOMBARDY. Eoute 21 . — Milan : Arco della Pace, 181 Bide by tlie Castello. Here stood the ancient ducal castle, built by Galeazzo Visconti II. in 1358, to keep the Milanese in subjection. Upon his death they insisted on its demolition ; it was, however, rebuilt with increased strength by Gian Galeazzo. Thus it remained till the death of the Duke Filippo Maria, when the Milanese rose (Aug. 30, 1447), and, having pro- clamied the ^^ Aiirea respuhlica Am- hrosiana^^^ destroyed the castle. It was soon rebuilt by Francesco Sforza, for the ornament (he said) of the city and its safety against enemies ; and he pro- mised that its governors should be always Milanese. This is the building now standing. In the interior is a keep, where the dukes often resided. Remains of paintings have been dis- covered under the whitewash in the stables. Philip II. added very ex- tensive modem fortifications, and cut down all the beU-towers which over- looked them. The advanced works reached to the edge of what is now open space. The castle was taken by the French in 1796 ; and again in 1800, when Napoleon ordered the fortifica- tions to be rased. It has since been converted into a barrack, the ap- proaches to which were strengthened after the outbreak of 1848, when a large Austrian force was obliged to evacuate it. Of the round towers at the angles, those towards the N. have disappeared or have been replaced by modern brick ones, while the two to- wards the city, formed of massive granite blocks, remain, although lowered to a certain height, in doing which the fine marble shields of the Sforzas have been mutilated ; but as the stones have been found, they are about to be re- stored to their former height, and the colossal vipers, the armorial bearings of the Viscontis, re-engraved, having been defaced by the revolutionary mob during the Cisaphne republic : and a line of loopholed defences has been carried nearly all round the castle, and the square in which it is situated con- siderably opened. During the vice- royalty of Eugene Beauliarnois a Doric gateway of granite, with a portico or lino of arches, now closed, on each side, and in the same style, was erected on the N.W. side; between each arch is a medallion containing the bas-relief portrait of some illustrious Italian mili- tary commander. The recently erected Gothic brick building against the E. wall of the Castello, with its towers and pointed windows, is a riding-school, and stands on the site of one of the semicircular batteries erected by the Austrians to overawe the city. The space gained by the demolition of the fortifications was meant to be covered by splendid buildings and mo- numents, for which AntoHni prepared a design in 1804. Two only of the edifices planned have been erected — tlie Arena and the Arco della Pace. The space on which it was intended to erect a forum has been converted into a Fiazza (VArmi, for the purpose of exercising the military. Arco della Face. A triumphal arch having been erected with wood and can- vas, in 1806, at the Porta Orientale, from a design of the Marquis Cagnola, upon the marriage of the Viceroy Beaiiharnois with the Princess Amalia of Bavaria, it was so much admired, that the muni- cipal council resolved that it should be executed in white marble from Crevola, on the Simplon road, the expense to be defrayed out of 200,000 francs as- signed by Napoleon for adorning the city. It was begun in 1807, but, on the fall of the kingdom of Italy in 1814, had not risen above the impost of the smaller arches. The works were resumed in 1816 and completed in 1838, in which year the arch was in- augurated at the time of the corona- tion of the Emperor Ferdinand I. It was originally intended to have been called the Arch of the Simplon, and to have been embellished with a statue of Victory, in commemoration of the battle of Jena, and with bas-rehefs re- presenting the events of Napoleon's campaigns. AVhen it fell into the hands of the Austrians its name was changed to that of Arch*of Peace, and the scidp- tui'es underwent a transformation to 182 Route 21, — Milan: Arena, Sect. III. make tliem represent the events wliich preceded the general pacification of 1815. On the top of the arch is a bronze figure of Peace, in a car drawn by six horses. Four figures of Fame, one at each angle, announce her arrival. These latter are by Gio- vanni Futti^ a Bolognese. The central group is by Sangiorgio. The subjects of the sculptm^e and the names of the artists are as follows : — Side towards the city. The colossal figm^e to the 1. of the inscription represents the river Po, that on the rt. tlie Ticino ; both are by Cacciatori, The subject of the bas-rehef on the 1. side immedi- ately below the entablature is the battle of Culm, by G, Mo7iti. The large bas-rehef below this is intended to represent the entry of the Em- peror Francis I. into Milan ; it is by Cacciatori. Below this is the ca- pitulation of Dresden, by C. Pacettl. On the rt. below the entablature is the passage of the Rhine. The large bas-relief below this represents the foundation of the Lombardo-Venetian kingdom, and the lowest one the occu- pation of Lyons ; these three are b}^ Marchesi. Each of the pedestals of the columns has an allegorical figure in half- relief: — they are Hercules, by G. Monti; Mars and Minerva, by JE. Pacetti ; Apollo, by Fizzi, Under the great central arch, a large bas- relief on the rt.-hand side represents the conference of the three allied sove- reigns of Russia, Prussia, and Austria ; it is by G. Monti, A corresponding one opposite was begun by Ac- quisti, and completed by Somaini. — Side towards the country. The colos- sal reclining figure to the 1., above the entablature, represents the river Tag- liamento ; the one on the rt. the Adige : they are both by Marchesi. The bas- relief immediately under the entabla- ture, on the 1. hand of the spectator, represents the re-institution of the order of the Iron Crown. The subject of the large bas-relief is the Congress of Yienna; both these are by G. B. Feraho. Below is the occupation of Paris, by A. Acqtiesti. The upper bas- relief on the rt. was begun by G. Rusca^ and finished by his son ; it represents the entry of the aUied sovereigns into Paris. The large bas- rehef below this represents the Peace of Paris ; and the lowest one the entry of the Austrians into Milan in 1814 ; these two are by G. Monti. The four pedestals of the columns on this side represent Vigilance, by Fizzi; History, Poetry, and Lom- bardy, by Acquesti. On the east- ern flank of the building is the bat- tle of Leipsig, by Ma^^chesi ; on the western that of Arcis-sur-Aube, by So- maini. The key- stones of the arches are ornamented with allegorical busts. The grand frieze all round was modelled by Monti and Marchesi. A recent in- scription on it records the entry into Milan of Napoleon III. and Victor Emanuel after the battle of Magenta in 1859. The total cost, including the lodges on each side and the iron railing, was 142,839/. ; the bronze car and figures on the top 40,000Z. alone. An easy staircase in the interior leads to the summit. The bas-rehefs have been much and justly criticised for a pe- dantic adherence in the costumes to classical models. The Arena is an amphitheatre de- signed by Canonica. It is an ellipse whose greater diameter is 780 ft., and lesser 390, and is capable of containing 30,000 spectators. It is surrounded by ten rows of seats, arranged in the manner of an ancient amphitheatre, and which were intended to be of stone, but for economy were made of turf. At one end of the greater diameter are the Carceres, flanked by towers, at the other a triumphal Doric gateway of granite, of which the design is good. At one side of the lesser diameter is a portico of eight Corintliian columns of polished granite. The arena can be flooded for aquatic exhibitions. It was commenced in 1805, and opened the following year. The Portico, Grate- way, and Carceres have been added since. The first races took place the 17th June, 1807 j and in the following LOMBARDY. Bmde 21,— Milan: Dmmo — Extenor, 183 December there was a regatta in the presence of Napoleon. Races, balloon ascents, rope-danchig, and fireworks, take place here frequently. Chueches. The Dttomo. The present building is the tliird, perhaps the fourth, re- edification of the original structure, which St. Ambrose, in his letter to his sister Marcelhna, calls the great new Basilica. The primitive cathedral was destroyed by Attila. Wlien rebuilt it was burnt by accident, in 1075, and again destroyed by Frederick I. in 1162 ; but this demolition was, it is said, only partial, being caused by the fall upon the church of a lofty bell- tower, which was destroyed in order to prevent its being used as a fortress. Lastly arose the present structure. The first stone of the present Du- omo was laid by Gian' Galeazzo Visconti, in 1387. Some historians say that the undertaking was in ful- filment of a vow ; others ascribe it to a wish to encom^age the arts. It was beyond the Alps that the Duke sought an architect. He had re- course to the freemasons of Germany ; and it is in vain that Itahan pa- triotism has sought to impugn the claims of Heinrich Ahrler of Gmiinden^ or " Unrico di GamodiaJ'' the Itahan version of his name. To him, between the years 1388-99,were associated other brethren from Grcrmany, Paris, and Normandy, from Friburg, Uhn, and Bruges » Itahan s were afterwards called in ; amongst others, the celebrated Brunellesclii of Florence. But Ger- many still continued to be considered as the school of the architects of the cathedi'al ; and as late as 1486 Gian' Galeazzo Sforza addressed let- ters to the magistrates of Strasburg, requesting them to send liim the master mason of their Domkirclie^ Hammerer, for the pm^pose of advising upon some difficulties wliich had been appre- hended in the construction of the central tower. The biulding has been often inter- rupted, and has, when resumed, been often carried on slowly, and it is yet unfinished in some of its de- tails. The octagon cupola was vaulted by the Omodei (father and son), 1490, 1522 ; the three western divi- sions or arches of the nave were left unfinished after the extinction of the I Sforza dynasty, and not completed till j 1685. The central tower and tlie spire, : of great beauty, which crowns it, were completed in 1772, from the designs of Croce ; and the gable and upper range of windows of the front, as well as very many of the buttresses and pinnacles, by Amati, Zanoja^ and others, between 1806, when the works were resmned by order of Napoleon, and the pre- sent time. In this long succession of years many of the first artists of Italy, amongst whom may be named Bramante^ Leonardo da Vinci, and Giulio Romano, gave their advice and assistance. The dates lonly of some of the principal constructions are here noticed ; but, since the first stone was laid, the scaffolds have always been standing on some part of the edifice. It seems that the original designs for the fa9ade had been long lost, and the portion of the nave, as erected, wanted three of its arches. A fa9ade of black and white marble, built con- siderably within the line of the present structure, ciu^tailed the nave by one- third of its just length ; and, as far as this had been raised, it was unfinished, and inelegant. Pellegrini Avas em- ployed in 1560 by San Carlo Borromeo to complete the front, and he designed an Italian fa9ade upon a magnificent scale. San Carlo died ; Pellegrini was summoned to Spain by Philip II. to paint the Escurial, and the work was carried on very leisurely by other hands, amongst them by Castelli and Francesco Riccliino, who, altering the designs of Pellegrini, gave to the Ro- man doors and windows that exube- ance of ornament which they now exhibit ; but the plans of Pellegrini — according to one of which the front was to have been composed of a gigan- 184 Route 21. — Milan : Duomo ; Interior, Sect. III. tic modern Eoman portico— had given rise to numerous discussions, which were continued, revived, and resumed during the l7th and 18th centuries. Some of the architects of Lombardy strongly protested against the admix- ture of Roman architecture begun by Pellegrini, and advocated the recon- struction of the fagade in the Pointed style. Thus, in 1635, two Grotliic designs were proposed by Carlo JBuzzi^ and a third by Francesco Castelli^ all three of considerable merit. It will be sufficient to observe that, about the year 1790, it was determined by the Syndics to Gothicise the fagade, preserving, how- ever, the doors and windows of Pelle- grini and Ricchini, on account of theii* elaborate elegance; and, in order to apologise for the discrepancy of the styles, they caused an inscription stating this reason to be engraved on the corner buttress of the front. To these works Napoleon gave great impulse, and their continuation was intrusted to a commission, under whom the fa9ade was brought to its present form, chiefly by the insertion of three Gothic windows ; and the greater number of the pinnacles and flying buttresses of the rest of the building were completed. The cost of these undertakings during the French go- vernment amounted to about 3.j mil- lions of francs. IJ millions of this sum were derived from the sale of the lands belonging to the Duomo, the re- mainder from the property of the sup- pressed monastic institutions. After the revolution of 1848 the supplies were for a time cut off; still a good deal had been done during the Austrian occupation. A magnificent Gothic campanile was projected by the Marquis Cagnola. Others proposed flanking the front with belfry towers. The designs for the latter were sent to Napoleon at Moscow, and lost in that calamitous campaign. At present nothing fru'ther is in progress as to this part of the edifice ; but, when Amati inserted the Gothic windows, he supported them by what are called bearing-arches of granite; so that, if it should here- after be thought expedient to remove the Romanised doors and windows, the operation can be performed without injury to the superstructure. When Gian' Galeazzo endowed the Duomo, he included in his dona- tions the marble-quarries of la Gan- dogha, in the valley of the Toccia, on the Simplon road, and of that ma- terial the bu.ilding is entirely con- structed. Time gives to this marble a fine warm yellow tint. In the tracery there is an unusual approximation to what has been called the Jlamhoi/ ant style. This was proba- bly owing to the influence of the French Gothic, as it is most apparent in the great E. window, which was built by Campania from the designs of Nicholas Bonaventure of Paris (1391). The E. end, or tribune, is probably the most ancient or original portion of the structure. It is calculated that the niches and pinnacles of the exte- rior will require a population of 4500 statues. Of these more than 3400 are executed, besides the bas-reliefs. 200 sculptors and carvers are now engaged, and upwards of 80 statues are produced by them annually. The excellent scvdptures of the central door, by Bono^ Castelliy and Vismara (about 1635), may be especially pointed out. The tympanum contains a bas- relief representing the creation of Eve. The arabesques in the pilas- ters are allusive to the works of the other days of the creation. In the compartments for the bas- reliefs there is a great variety of de- tail. Many of the artists were from Como. A careful observer will dis- cover in them not a few of the sym- bolical representations of an earlier age in modern forms. Amongst the minor capricci is a female head co- vered by a veil, all the features being seen, as it were, through the trans- parent covering. The Caryatides, by JRusca and Cardbelli^ are in finely varied attitudes. The traveller, in order fully to un- LoMBARDY. Boute 21. — Milan: Dumio ; Interior. 185 derstand the details of the building, should ascend the summit. A stair- case, the entrance to wliich is at the W. corner of the S. transept, -where a charge of 25 centimes is made, leads by 158 steps to the roof. The best time to enjoy the magnificent pano- ramic view is the evening, the plains being generally covered with mist at an earlier hour. Steps upon the flying buttresses af- ford an ascent to the different levels. Two staircases, winding in tm'rets of open tracery, as at Strasburg, bring you to the platform of the octagon, and a similar staircase in the sph'e conducts to the belvedere or galleiy, at the foot of the pyramid, or fleche, which crowns it. These turrets were executed by Antonio Omodei between 1490 and 1494. The sculpture, as well as the architecture, is from his design. The open tracery was executed by Amid of Cremona. The w^hole is of exquisite finish. There were to have been two others of similar workman- ship at the opposite angles of the octagon. The larger number of the pinnacles of the nave and aisles have been completed since 1805. The gmaller ornaments — baskets of fruit, cherubs' heads, sunflowers, lihes — are admirable, and much superior to any- thing which results from the rigorism now inculcated by Gothic arcliitects. All the main pinnacles, 3 on each buttress, are completed ; a very per- ceptible progress has been made in the course of the last few years. From the octagon gallery you gain a noble view of the plain of Lombardy, studded with cities and villages and church towers ; the whole walled in, on the N. and E., by the snowy Alps. To the eastward, in a line with the cupola of Sta. Maria della Passione, is the plain watered by the Lambro, called the Martesana, and beyond are the mountains of the province of Brescia, which towards the N. are connected with those of the Seriana andBrembana val- leys, and then with the Resegone, on 1. in a line Tv^th the Cafd of the Giardino Publico, which rises above Lecco, and is distinguished by the serrated or sawhke form of its summit. The lower ridges to the W. of this form the hilly country of the Brianza, behind which, and in a line with the Porta Nuova, rises the moimtain of S. Primo, which stands between the two southern arms of the lake of Como. To the 1. of S. Primo rise the mountains Avhich encircle the lakes of Como, Yarese, and Lugano, with the snowy peaks about the S. Gothard beyond. Still further to the westward, the Simplon is distin- guished, and then Monte Rosa, with its summits sparkhng with eternal snow, and showing at sunset those hues from which it derives its name. Exactly W., Mt. Cenis may be seen, and still fur- ther to the 1. the sharp snow-capped pyramid of Monte Yiso. In a line with the Porta Ticinese the Apen- nines begin, among which the most remarkable point is the Penice. Ad- vancing towards the S.E., and in the line of the Porta Romana, is the insulated group of hills of S. Colum- bano, and then the vast plain of the Po, in which may be distinctly seen on a clear day Lodi, Crem^ia, and Crema. By ascending to the gallery just before sunrise, the visitor may sometimes enjoy the striking spectacle of the rays of the sun catching successively the snow- clad peaks of the Alps long before the orb itself has appeared on the horizon. The ground-plan of the Duomo is a Latin cross, termmated by an apse or tribune, in the form of five sides of an octagon. The body is divided into a nave and four aisles, by four ranges of colossal clustered pillars, with nine inter-columniations. The transepts and the chancel end are divided into three aisles. There is no triforium gaUery, nor any division corresponding with it. The vaultings of the roof spring at once from the pillars : hence arises an appearance of great loftiness. Fifty- two pillars, each formed by a cluster of eight shafts, support the pointed arches on which the roof rests. The total height of each pillar of the nave and chancel is 80 ft. The diameter of the shaft is 8 ft. 3| in, The di- 186 Route 2\, —Milan: Diwmo ; Inferior, Sect. III. ameter of the four great pillars which support the octagonal cupola is one- fifth greater. The beautiful capitals of the nave and choir were designed by Mlip]pino of Modena in 1500 ; the lower part is formed by a wreath of foliage, mixed with figures of children and animals ; above is a circle of eight niches, corresponding to the intervals between the eight shafts of the clus- tered pillar, and each containing a statue covered by a canopy. The shafts which divide the niches ter- minate in a pinnacle, surmounted by a small statue. The design, however, is varied in different pillars. The roof is painted to represent an elaborate fret- work. The execution is modern, but the design, as well as this mode of orna- mentation, is ancient. The 5 doorways on the inside were designed by Fabio Mangoni in 1548. Flanking the great centre doorway are two granite co- lumns, each of a single block: they were given by San Carlo, and brought from the quarries of Baveno. They have been called the largest mono- liths in Europe; and, perhaps, were so until the creation of the church of St. Isaac at Petersburg. The height of each shaft is 35 ft., the diameter 3 ft. lOf in. ; the cost of quarry- ing and finishing them amounted to 1948^. The principal dimensions of the Duomo are as follows : — English Feet. Extreme length 486 Breadth of the body .... 252 Between the ends of the tran- septs 288 Width of the nave, from centre to centre of the columns, which is double the width of the aisles measured in the same way 63 Height of the crown of the vaulting in the nave from the pavement 153 Height from the pavement to the top of the statue of the Madonna, which crowns the spire . , , , ' 355 Beyond the entrance the pavement is crossed by a meridian line, laid down by the astronomers of Brera in 1786. The sun's rays, passing through a small aperture in the roof, cross it, of course, at noonday. Origin- ally all the windows were fiUed with painted glass. Pellegrini designed those in the nave : much glass remains of extraordinary brilliancy, but a great deal is lost. The restoration of the painted windows is amongst the works now in progress, 3 only in the N. aisle remaining unfinished ; the windows of the apse have been already com- pleted by Milanese artists : the lower ranges contain subjects from the Apo-. calypse. Parts of the glass, too, in the S. transept, and the W. window, are modern. These restorations are poor in design. Two of the great piUars supporting the octagonal cu-. pola, on each side of the choir, are encircled by pulpits, partly of bronze, begun by direction of San Carlo, and completed by his nephew, Cardinal Federigo Borromeo. These are covered with bas-reliefs by Andrea Fellizone^ and rest on colossal caryatides, repre- senting the symbols of the Evan- gelists, and the four Doctors of the Church, SS. Grregory, Jerome, Ambrose, and Augustine, modelled by JBrambilla, and cast by Busca^ bending and spreading forwards to support the superstructure. Behind the altar are seen the three gigantic windows of the tribune. The best time of day for contemplating this scene is when the morning sun is streaming through the eastern windows. The effect of the bril- liant background is much heightened by the dark bronzes of the pulpits. Suspended from the vaulting of the octagon over the altar, is a reliquiary, said to contain one of the nails of the cross, wliich annually, on the feast of the Invention of the Holy Cross (3rd May), is exposed upon the altar, and carried in solemn procession through the city. "With some feeling of disappoint, ment, from having heard so much Of this building, it w^s impossible no^ LOMBARDY. Route 21, — Milan: Duomo ; Interior, 187 to acknowledge the sublime effect of the interior. The first particulars which strike yon on passing to the interior ai'e, that it is dark and gloomy, and that the leacUng lines are very much mterrupted by the shrines intro- duced in the capitals of the piers, wliich injiu'e also the apparent solidity of the building. " The style does not correspond with any of om' English modes of pointed architecture. The vaulting is simple, without any branching ribs, or any ridge-piece ; it is so much super- vaidted, that each bay appears to be the portion of a dome ; and the dis- position of the materials in concentric circles, or in portions of such cu'cles, makes me believe that this is nearly the case. ^ =^ * The lower part of the capitals has something of the running foliage of the 14th centy. in England : but the shrine-work which forms the upper part is perfectly unique ; at least, I know nothing parallel, either in the work itself, on in the manner it is here introduced. The bases and the plans of the pillars are equally anomalous, and I think any person would be baffled in attempting to determine the date from the architecture, only he might safely decide that it could not be very early." — Woods' Letters of an Architect. To point out in detail the more remarkable objects to be seen in the Duomo, beginning from the western end and on the rt.-hand side : — First is the monument of Marco CareUi, a benefactor of the Duomo, a work of A.D. 1394. It is an altar-tomb, with small figures in niches. Next follows the altar of St. Agatha, with a picture by Federigo 2Aicchero ; then tliat of St. John the Evangehst, by Melchior GJierardini. In the next is a picture by Fiammenghino. These altars were erected in the time of the Archbishops Borromeo. According to the strict Ambrosian rule, there ought, as in the Greek Church, to be only one altar in the cathedral, and the Duomo was planned accordingly. Other altars have been introduced, but there are fewer than is usual in Koman CathoUc cathe- di'als ; and the chapels are much less prominent than in similar buildings. In the S. transept is the monument of Giovanni Giacomo de' Medici, Marquis of Marignano (d. 1555), the uncle of San Carlo, and of his son Grabriel, executed in bronze by Leon Leoni, and said by Yasari to have I been designed by Michael Angelo. The principal statue of Medici is not unworthy in its general design of the great master who is supposed to have sketched it. In the splendid window near this tomb, proceeding eastward, the armorial bearings of the deceased are introduced. TJiis Medici, often called il Medichino^ was not of the family of the Ducal House of Florence, though the armorial bearings are the same. In the tribune at the end of the S. transept is the chapel of San Giovanni Bono. The pilasters of the arch and I its archivolt are covered with exceed- i ingly elaborate bas-reliefs by Simon' etta^ San Petro, Zarahatta, JBrunetti, Bussola, and others. The figures of Justice and Temperance, by Vismara, are good, but the chief merit is rather to be found in the exuberance of com- position and liigh finish of the groups and tablets — some of which are taken from the Hfe of San Giov. Bono. The statue of the Guardian Angel is by Buzzi, that of St. Michael by Giov. Milanti. On one side is the entrance to the underground passage leading to the archbishop's palace, and, on the other, that of the staircase which leads to the roof. Next is the altar of the Presentation of the Virgin, by Bam- haja (1510), who has attempted a difficult representation of perspective in sculptiu-e. The celebrated statue of St. Bartholomew, formerly on the outside of the cathedral, and vaunted above its deserts, has been lately re- moved into the S. transept. The in- scription, " Non me Praxiteles^ sed Marcus fmxit Agrates^'' is adopted from an epigram in the Greek Anthology. The small monumentj close by, of 188 Eoute 21. — Milan: Daomo ; Interior, Sect. III. Giovanni Andrea Vimercatiy a canon of the cathedral, has two heads in low- rehef by Banihaja (1 537-48). The large alto-relievo of the Mar- tyrdom of Santa Apollonia is by iJrcole Procaccini. The statues of St. Satirus, by Cacoiatori^ and St. Ambrose, by Gaetano Monti^ were placed here in 1842. Entering the aisle behind the choir, the elaborate Gothic doorway, composed of foliage intermixed with imagery, on the rt. hand, leads to the southern sacristy. Then follows a sitting statue of Pope Martin V. by Jacopino di Tradate, erected by Filippo Maria Yisconti, to commemorate the consecration of the high altar by that pontiff. The tomb of Cardinal Caracciolo, go- vernor of Milan (d. 1538), with the figures by Bamhaja, is striking in its general effect. On the wall beneath one of the 3 great E. windows is a tablet of marble, with a monogram of liigh antiquity, called the ^^Chrismon Sancti Ambrosii,^^ and which contains the A and H, together with other symbols. Some suppose it to be a Gnostic monument. Near this, engraved on two black marble tablets, on each side of a dedicatory inscrijDtion to S. Carlo, is a long list of relics of saints preserved in the cathe- dral. Some inscriptions to members of the Sforza family are placed here- abouts on the walls. North side. — The tomb of Ottone Visconti, Archbishop and Signore of Milan (d. 1295), is earlier than the foundation of the present building. It is striking from its singularity of form and colour, being of bright red Verona marble. He left his goods and chattels to the knights of St. John, who erected this monument. The same tomb, by a singular economy, serves as that of Archbishop Giovanni Yisconti (d. 1354), who also united in his person the temporal and spiritual supremacy of Milan. Immediately above tliis urn is the sitting statue of Pope Pius IV. (1559- 1565), the brother of the Marquis of Marignano, It is by Angelo de Manis, a Sicilian (1560). The semi- Gothic bracket which supports it, by Bram- billa, is full of elegant fancy in the groups which compose it. An inscrip- tion, recently found under a house near the Cathedral, stating that it was erected in 1386, has been placed on the wall near Ottone Visconti's tomb. Beyond the entrance to the N. sacristy is a monument in very poor style to 3 members of the Arcimboldi family, who were archbishops of Milan. The circuit wall of the choii', towards the aisles, is covered with bas-reliefs, representing the history of the Virgin. The subjects are divided into compart- ments by angels, whose attitudes are finely varied. Entering the N. transept we come to the altar of Santa Prassede, with an alto- relievo by Marc' Antonio Prestinari, The painting of the Annunciation is a copy of that of Giotto at Florence. The next chapel, of the Crucifix, has also a large indifferent alto-reUevo over the altar. The chapel of the Holy Sacrament, at the end of the N. transept, called delV albero^ from the splendid bronze candelabrum which stands before it, the gift in 1562 of Giovanni Battista Trivulzio, archpriest of the cathedi'al, contains some fine bas- rehefs, and a statue of the Madonna, by Buzzi. In front of this altar are the slab tombs of Cardinal Federigo Bor- romeo, the nephew of S. Carlo, of Card. Caccia, and of two archbishops of the Visconti family. The next chapel, enclosed by an iron railing, is dedicated to St. Catherine. In the 1. aisle the altar that follows has a picture of St. Ambrose absolving Theodosius, by F. Baroccio ; beyond which is a Marriage of the Virgin by F. Ziicchero. Then follows that of the Crucifix, that over the altar being the one wliicli was carried about the city, before St. Carlo, during the plague at Milan. The two modern statues on each side are St. Martha, by Cacciatore, and the Magdalene, by Monti. The next space contains an altar-tomb, erected in 1480, and restored in 1832 ; it has a good bas-relief by Marchesi, LoMBARCY. Eoute 21. — Milan: Buomo ; Crypt, 189 The Baptisteiy, — a small square temple supported by four columns of marble — is by Pellegrini. It contains an ancient lahi-um^ used as a font, from a bath of the lower Empu'e, the Ambrosian ritual requiring baptism by immersion. Behind the Baptistery, in the N. wall of the 1. aisle, are eight statues in relief of saints, with a me- dia?val bas-relief of the Virgin and Child, St. Paul, and St. Catherine. The saints, in red marble, are of an early date. Tlie chou' was designed by Pelle- grini. The richly carved stalls of wal- nut-wood, with bas-reliefs, represent the history of St. Augustine and St. Am- brose. The organ-case^ are rich with gilded carving and paintings of Fi- ginij Camillo Procciccinij and Giuseppe Meda. The ambones or pulpits are placed on the piers at the entrance of the choir, and are cu'cular; one is supported by the emblems of the Evan- gelists ; the other by colossal statues of the 4 Doctors of the Church : the gilt bas-reliefs are very second-rate. On the great rood-beam are statues of Mary and St. John. On the high altar is a magnificent tabernacle of gilt bronze, adorned with figm'es of our Saviom' and the Twelve Apostles, the work of the Solaris the gift of Pius lY. A handsome Grothic candelabrum hangs from the roof of the choir. Beneath the choir is the subterranean church, in which ser- vice is celebrated during the winter season, as being warmer than the vast one above. This lower church is from the designs of Pellegrini. From it is the entrance into the chapel of St. Carlo^ rebuilt in 1817, from the de- signs of Pestagalli, in the form of a lengthened octagon. This subterranean chapel is lighted by an opening in the pavement of the church above, but not sufiiciently to allow of the objects in it being seen without the aid of tapers. The walls are covered with 8 oval bas-rehefs, in silver gilt, representing the principal events of the life of the saint, viz. — The Birth of San Carlo ; his presiding at the Provin- cial Council of Milan (1505), in which canons were enacted vh'tually protesting against some of tlie worst abuses of the Roman Church ; San Carlo's distribution to the poor of the proceeds of the sale of the princi- pality of Oria. He had a life-interest in this domain, w4iich he sold for 40,000 crowns ; and he ordered his almoner to distribute it amongst the poor and the hospitals of his diocese. The almoner made out a list of the items, how the donations were to be bestowed, which, wdien added up, amounted to 42,000 crowns. But when he found out the mistake, he began to revise the figures. "Nay,'* said San Carlo, "let it remahi for their benefit;" and the whole was distributed in one day. — San Carlo's administration of the Sacrament dur- ing the great plague. — The attempt made to assassinate him. San Carlo had laboured to introduce salutary reforms into the order of Umiliali, whose scandalous mode of living had given great offence. Some members of the order conspired to murder him. A priest named Farina was hired to execute the deed. He gained access to his private chapel, and, as San Carlo was kneeling before the altar, fired at him point blank with an arquebuse. At this moment they were singing the verse, "Let not your heart be troubled, neither be ye afraid." The bullet struck San Carlo on the back, but did not penetrate his silken and embroidered cope, and dropped harm- less on the ground; and the failure of the attempt was considered as an interposition of Providence. San Carlo continued in prayer, while all around him were in consternation. The assas- sin escaped for a time, but was ulti- mately executed, though San Carlo endeavoured to save him. — The great translation of rehcs effected by him. — The death of San Carlo. He died 4th November, 1584, aged 46 years, his hfe having been imquestionably shortened by liis austerities. — His re- ception into Paradise. These tablets are suiTOunded by fanciful ornaments. Thus (e. g.) round a tablet given by 190 Route 21, —Milan : Duomo ; Sacristy. Sect. IIL the money-changers are cornucopias pouring out money, the corns being real golden florins, pistoles, ducats, &c., fastened together by wire, or some similar contrivance. Jewels, crosses, rings, and other votive gifts are hnng around : some are very recent. The body of the saint is deposited in a gorgeous shrine of silver, the gift of Philip IV. of Spain ; and contains the corpse dressed in full pontificals, which is seen through panes of rock crystal, for the working of which the Milanese artists were celebrated. The skill of embalmers has not been able to preserve the body from decay. The brown and shrivelled flesh of the mouldering countenance scarcely co- vers the bone ; the head is all but a skull, and the face, alone uncovered, olfers a touching aspect amidst the splendid robes and ornaments in wliich the figm^e is shrouded. Upon the sarcophagus, and all around, worked upon the rich tapestry, is repeated in golden letters San Carlo's favourite motto, ^^ Humilitas,^^ wliich long, how- ever, before his time had been borne by the Borromeo family. The sub- terranean chapel and the shrine are open at an early hour, and on greal festivals, but may be seen at all times on paying a few lire to the sacristano in attendance. On the anniversary of S. Carlo (JSTov. 4) large pictures are suspended between the pillars of the transepts and nave, representing the events of his life and the miracles which he is supposed to liave performed. The body of the saint may be seen on the eve and festival when the crypt is much re- sorted to by devotees. The principal or southern Sacristy contains some objects of interest, the remains of a much larger collection. Amongst those most deserving of notice are the following : — The JEvan- gelisterium^ the cover richly worked in enamel, and containing a MS. copy of the Gospels, from which the arch- bishop reads portions on certain great festivals. It was given to the Duomo by Archbishop Aribert, 1018, but is probably of much oldel* date than his time, the workmanship of the enamel appearing to be of the Carlovingian era. A small vessel of ivory ^ ornamented with whole-length figm^s, the "Virgin and Child, and the Evangelists, is placed beneath Lombard arches. It was given to the chm^ch by Archbishop Godfrey, by whom it was used at the coronation of the Emp. Otho II., A.D. 978. Two diptychs of the Lower Empire, of good workmanship, representing events in the history of our Lord ; Greek in- scriptions, not all correct in their ortho- graphy, and one almost inexplicable. Full-length statues of St. Ambrose and San Carlo on silver. The first was given by the city in 1698, and was the work of Scarpoletti, and twenty other goldsmiths. There are small statues of gold in the pastoral staff", and events in the history of the saint are dehneated on his chasuble. The statue of San Carlo was given by the goldsmiths in 1610. Several husts of the same material and character. A mitre, said to have been worn by San Carlo dtmng the pestilence. It is embroidered Avith the brightest feathers, and was probably brought from some of the Spanish American convents. The statue in marble of the Saviour here is by C. Solaris There are also some splendid speci- mens of modern jewellery, particularly a Pax^ by Caradosso, the gift of Pius IV. It contains many figures; the principal group represents a De- position from the Cross; the figures are worked with the utmost delicacy. Amhrogio jPo2?2?a,nicknamed Caradosso, was a Milanese, the contemporary of Cellini, and earned the deserved praise of the jealous Tuscan. He was also a die-sinker, in which art he excelled, and an architect. Foppa was not handsome : and a Spanish grandee having in contempt called him " Cara d'osso," or Bear's face, he very inno- cently adopted the name, without un- derstanding it, perhaps thinking it a complunent. LoMBARDY. Route 21. — Milan : Duomo ; Saiit* Amhrogio. 191 The Ambi'osian rite is almost the only national liturgy in the West ■which has been spared by the Roman Church, and it is probably much older than the Roman Liturgy. The Bito or Culto Ambrosia no is in use throughout the whole of the ancient archbishopric of Milan. Several attempts have been made to introduce the Roman service in its place, but they have been foiled by the attachment of the clergy and people to their ancient rite ; and even in the present age " noi Amhrosiani " is an expression employed with a cer- tain warmth of national feehng. The service is longer than the Roman. The Scriptm'es are not read from the Yulgate, but from the ancient version called the Italica^ which preceded that made by St. Jerome. No musical in- strument is permitted except the organ ; the melodies of modem music are rarely introduced, and the monotonous chant maintains its supremacy. There are many minor differences in the ceremo- nies which are anxiously retained, ex- tending even to the shape of the censers or turiholi. A species of tunnel connects the Duomo with the ArcJdepiscopal 'Palace. Annexed to it is a workshop belonging to the fabric, in which is the model, or rather the wreck of the model, of one of the plans for completing the front of the Duomo, It is so large that a man can stand up in it ; but it is sadly broken and neglected. According to this plan the front would have had a noble portal of Gothic arches, not un- like Peterborough, and much more ap- propriate than the present one. There are many churches besides the cathedral deserving notice. Several of them are interesting from their antiquity; from their connexion with events recorded in history ; or for the works of art which they contain. Some of them have lost theii* interest, how- ever, by being modernized, particularly the interiors; and this seems to have been done chiefly about the time of St. Carlo, and during the Spanish rule. Sant Amhrogio. This basilica was founded by St. Ambrose, when Bishop of Milan, and dedicated by him, June 19tli, 387, to the Martyrs SS. Gerva- siiis and Frotasius, whose bones he removed to this church. Posterity has transferred the dedication to the founder. This structure exhibits many of those arrangements which were adopted in the early ages of the Church. In front is the atrium, beyond whose precincts the catechumens were not to pass. As it now stands, it was built by Archbishop Anspertus (about 868- 881), as appears from his epitaph in the choir. It is, therefore, the most ancient mediseval ecclesiastical struc- ture in Milan. When repau-ed in 1631 by the architect Hichini, by order of Cardinal Federigo Borromeo, an ope- ration rendered indispensable by its impending ruin, all its featm'cs were preserved without alteration. The court in front is acknowledged to date from the 9th century, and the church exhibits very > much of the same style of art. This atrium is an oblong square surrounded by arcades, having 3 arches at each end, and 6 on each side, supported by pilasters with half- columns ; the sculpture on the capitals of which, animals and runic knots, are good specimens of early Christian art. There is nothing in the details of the design, or in the execution, to demand admiration ; and yet as a whole it is striking, from the simpUcity and harmony of the general design. The architecture of Sant' Ambrogio may be called Lombard {i. e. with cir- cular arches), that style which it has been of late years the fashion to call Romanesque, but singularly rude. The five arches of the front are very characteristic ; those above enclosing a gallery which stands over the peristyle. Fragments of frescoes still remain on the walls of the atrivmi, round which are aiTanged slab tombs, urns, altars, vo- tive and sepulchral inscriptions, found in 1813, when the pavement of the Ba- silica was taken up and repaired. Some of the inscriptions are remarkable from tlie corruption of the Latin, exhibiting, perhaps, specimens of the colloquial 192 Route 21. — Milan; Sant' AmbrogiOi Sect. Ill, dialect. Two small panels, — one at the top of each of the folding doors, — are seen as part of the gates which St. Ambrose closed against the Emperor Theodosius after his merciless slaughter of the inhabitants of Thessalonica. These relics are of cypress-wood, and, though not decayed, bear the marks of extreme age. The doors are ornamented with fohage and Scripture histories. The general costume and treatment of many of the jSgures is that of the Lower Empire : they were executed most pro- bably in the 9th century, and were re- stored in 1750, when the two bronze masks were added. As for the remark- able event to which the tradition refers, it took place at the gate of the Basihca Portiana, now the ch. of San Yittore al Corpo. Over the side doors are rude reliefs of a martyr between 2 lions, and of marine monsters. With respect to the architecture of the interior, it was, like the atrium, Lombard ; but in the 13th century Gothic arches were built up under the circular ones which support the roof, in order to strengthen them. The inside of the church was origin- ally divided on the plan into square portions, each division having two semicircular arched openings on each side below, and two above in the gallery, and a vaulting of semicircular groined arches, groinings being added on the roof. The first two squares remain nearly in the original state, but the third has double pointed groins springing from a lower point; the strong ribs which separate the squares unite like- wise so as to form a pointed arch. The fourth square is covered by the lan- tern, which is probably an addition of the 13th century. There are no tran- septs. The parallel walls of the build- ing continue a little beyond the lantern, and terminate in the ancient tribune, between which and the nave rises the Baldachino over the high altar, sup- ported by 4 columns of porphyry. In front of the Baldachino is a gilt bas- relief, Christ seated between two per- sonages kneeling, offering to one a book with the inscription Capiat Libeum Sapientia ; to the other two rods with a kind of key, supposed to indicate St. Peter. These bas-reliefs are in the same style as the early Christian mo- saics at Ravenna, each figure receiving the offerings in the folds of his mantle. Beneath are the bodies of SS. Ger- vasius and Protasius, deposited here in A.D. 530 by Archbishop Angilbertus ; their graves may be seen through a grating in the crypt ; that of St. Am- brose was placed in his church in a.d. 397 by St. Bassianus of Lodi. One of the great curiosities of the Basilica is the splendid facing of the altar, which is one of the most remark- able monuments of goldsmith's art of the middle ages. A fee of 5 frs. to see it. It was presented by Archbishop Angilbertus II. (about 835), and its interest is increased by the preservation of the name of the artist " Wolvinius," who describes him- self as " Magister Faber," or Master Smith, just as the famous " Wieland" is styled Meister Schmied in the Nie- belungen lay. His name seems to in- dicate that he was of Teutonic race — a circumstance which has excited much controversy amongst the modern Ita- lian antiquaries. The front of the altar is of plates of gold ; the back and sides are of silver, aU richly enamelled and set with precious stones : the latter are all rough, at least not polished according to om' present mode, The golden front is in three divisions, each containing smaller compartments : in the centre one are nine, containing our Lord, the em- blems of the Four Evangelists, and the Twelve Apostles. The two lateral compartments contain the principal events of the life of our Lord. The Transfiguration is represented ac- cording to the type followed, without any variation, in all the early Greek and in most of the Latin delineations of that miracle. The sides and the back of the altar, though less valuable in material, are perhaps more beautiful than the front, from the greater variety of coloiu' which* they exhibit. The bas-reliefs on them are the following LoMBARDY. Route 21. — Milan: Sant^ Amhrogio, 193 (we add the descriptions, because the in- scriptions are not easily read, and the Custode exphiins them ad libitum) : — l.-hand side. Eight angels bearing vials ; four whole-length figures, not appropriated ; and four medallions, representing SS. Ambrose, Simplicia- nus, Gervasius, and Protasius. rt.-hand side. The four archangels, JNIichael, Gabriel, Kaphael, and Uriel. Ifoiw angels with rials, and four saints, SS. Martin, Maternus, JSTabor, who suflered martyrdom with St. Felix, at Milan, a.d. 304, and St. Nazarius. But the back is the most interesting part, for here are represented the prm- cipal events of the life of St. Ambrose, and here the artist has left his por- traiture. Like the front, it consists of three grand compartments divided into smaller tablets. These are separated by enamelled borders. Centre : The archangels Michael and Gabriel. St. Ambrose bestowing his blessing upon the Archbishop Angilbert ; and, in the pendant, he is also blessing the master smith Wolvinus. Lateral tablets. The history begins with the lowest tablet at the 1. corner, and thus we shall ac- cordingly describe them, proceeding upwards. (1.) The bees swarming around the sleeping child. St. Am- brose, born A.D. 340, was the son of the prefect of the Gauls. The legend tells us that the swarm thus flew about the infant's cradle, whilst he was lying in one of the courts of his father's palace at Aries. This was considered a presage of futm'e eloquence. Nearly the same story is told of St. Domi- nick, and of Pindar. (2.) Ambrose proceeds to take the command of the eastern and Ligurian provinces of Italy. (3.) St. Ambrose, having been chosen Archbishop of Milan by accla- mation (a.d. 375), attempts to escape his promotion by flight. (4.) His bap- tism, which did not take place until after he was nominated by the people to the archbishopric. (5.) Ambrose is ordained bishop. (6, 7.) Whilst en- tranced, he is present, in spirit, at the funeral of St. Martin of Tours — a le- gend, of which the futility has been N, Italy—l^m. pointed out by Baronius. (8.) St. Ambrose preachhig, but prompted by angels. (9.) Heals the lame. (10.) He is visited by our Lord. (11.) The apparition of the angel calUng St. Ho- norat Bishop of Yercelli to administer the viaticum to St. Ambrose, then on his deathbed. (12.) His death ; angels receiving his soul. This monument is important as an authentic record of ecclesiastical costume. It narrowly escaped being seized and melted down by the revolutionary commissioners in 1797. Except upon high festivals, it is covered up, but it is shown upon pay- ment of a fee to the sacristan. Near the end of the singing gallery, towards the altar, is a half -length figure in bas-relief, with shaven head and chin, long pallium, and pontifical garments, the right hand being raised in the act of giving benediction, the left holding an open book on which is written Sanctus Ambrosius. It is an ancient representation of the saint. In the nave of the church, placed upon a granite pillar, is a serpent of bronze, the subject of strange tradi- tions. It is said to be the brazen serpent of the desert (in spite of the Scripture account of the destruction of that type), and as such was given, in 1001, to the Archbishop Arnulphus by the Emperor of Constantinople. It is probably an Alexandrian talisman . of the 3rd or 4th century. The pulpit is a curious structure, standing upon 7 circular arches. It is said to have been rebuilt in 1201 ; but most of the ornaments are so evidently of the earliest Lombard period, that it can only have been then repaired. A remarkable, but very rude, bas-relief, representing the Agape., or love-feast, should be noticed. The bronze eagle for supporting the book, with the figure of the Saviour beneath, is of the work- manship of the lower empire. Beneath it is a well-preserved Christian sarco- phagus ; the cover, with Christian em- blems, does not appear to have be- longed to it origmally. It has been called the tomb of Stiliclio; but this is an antiquarian whim, there not 194 jRoute 21,— Milan : Sanf Anibrogio, Sect. III. being the slightest foundation for the opinion. Near the entrance of the choir are two slabs with inscriptions, the one covering the tomb of Archbishop An- spertus, the other of the Emperor Louis II., who died 875. The tribune, or eastern termination, is the most unaltered portion of the edifice. The vaulting is covered with mosaic upon a gold ground — a splendid specimen of the Byzantine style, and the first wliich the traveller sees m this part of Italy. It represents the Saviour, and SS. Protasius, Gervasius, Satirus, Marcellina, Candida, and the two cities of Milan and Tours, in allusion to the legend of St. Ambrose being present at the death of St. Martin without leaving Milan. The inscriptions are partly in Grreek, ex- hibiting in its spelling the present Romaic pronunciation, and partly in Latin. A monogram, conjecturally de- ciphered, probably contains the name of the donor and the dedication of the work; and in the hieroglyphics, con- tained within a square cartouche, the erudite may discover the names of the Abbot Graudentius, of Archbp. Angel- bert, and of the Emperor Louis II. But whether the interpretation be cor- rect or not, the character of the work is certainly not later than the 9th centm'y, and probably of an earlier period. In the centre of the choir is a very curious marble throne, called the chair of St. Ambrose, of an ancient form, decorated with lions at the arms, and a simple scrollwork. It is, in fact, the primitive throne of the Arch- bishops of Milan, on which they sat, according to the ancient practice of the Church, in the midst of the 18 sufiragans of the province, of whom the most northern was the Bishop of Chur or Coire, and the most southern, of Grenoa. The chairs of the bishops remained until the 16th century, when they were replaced by wood stalls for the canons, carved in a rich Elemish style, but so as to make us regret the loss of antique simphcity. When the traveller reaches TorceUo (see p. 414) he will find the ancient arrangement still unaltered. Beneath the choir is a large crypt modernised by Card. E. Borromeo : the roof is supported by 26 columns of red marble with Doric capitals in black. Opening into this crypt is the sepulchral chapel of St. Graudentius. The chapel of San Satiro, opening into the passage from the sacristy, con- tains by far the most interesting mosaics in tliis church. This chapel was, in the time of St. Ambrose, the basilica of Fausta, but afterwards received the name of " St. Yittore in cielo d' oro," from the mosaic on the ceiling, now under repair. The large chapel in front of its entrance is modern. The mosaics represent in full-length figures Ambrose, Protasius, Grervasius, Eelix, Matemus, and Nabor : none are de- signated as saints, or crowned with the nimbus: in the centre is a medallion, supjDOsed to represent St. Victor. The probabihty is, that they were executed not long after the age of St. Ambrose himself, perhaps in the 5th century. The nimbi and letters which are seen are a clumsy addition of a later period. The front of the altar has a curious low- relief of an early period, ornamented with Greek crosses. Behind this altar is a good fresco of oui* Saviour between Angels by Borgognone^ and in a chapel close by a Gloria by G. Tiepolo. The church contains several good paintings : in the 7th chapel on the rt. a Holy Family with St. Jerome and St. John the Baptist, by Luini, seen with difficulty from the bad light; in the 2nd, now forming a side entrance, frescoes of the Deposition by Gaudenzio Ferrari, and opposite the 3 Maries and our Lord bearing the Cross, by B. Luini; a modernised chapel, 4th on rt., has, over the altar, a good statue of a kneeling figure, by MarcJiesi; in the 8th, St. George destroying the Dragon, and the Martyrdom of the Saint, attri- buted to Luini J Lanini, and Borgognone; the vault and arches, beautifully deco- rated with flowers, arabesques, and children. The passage out of the 1. LOMBARDY. Route 21. — Milan : Churches. 195 aisle has a Christ disputing with the Doctors, by JBorgognone ; and a Yirgin and Child on panel, of the very early Lombard school. Some fragments of painting of the original ch. have been lately found on the walls and roof here. There is some fine church plate in the sacristy, especially an osiensoi'lum, in the fonn of the handsome campanile of the church of S. Gottardo, given by Azzo Visconti. In the arcliives of the chapter are sevend diplomas of the 8th and 9th centuries, and a missal, with good miniatures, of 1398, a gift of Gian' Q-aleazzo ; also some beautiful illu- minated choir-books of the 15th and 16tli cents, in excellent preserva- tion, the pictorial capitals m which are works of art of high order. The arcliives of San Ambrogio were removed to the General Eecord Office, and its Hbrary to Brera, in 1799. The adjoining Convent of Sant' Am- brogio, now used as a mihtary hospital, was built about 1495 by Bramante, and retains vestiges of its ancient magnificence. The splendid cloister has been destroyed. The refectory is a fine specimen of an interior in the deco- rated Itahan style : it is painted in fresco by Calisto da Lodi, 1545. This sumptuous hall was converted during the Austrian occupation into a ward for patients afiected with loathsome dis- eases ; and whilst this occupation of the chamber prevents its being examined with any degree of pleasure, the exha- lations have greatly altered the colours of the paintings. Outside of the forecourt of Sant' Ambrogio stands a sohtary Corinthian column, a rehc of Roman Milan. It has been found by recent excavations that this pillar did not belong to a building formerly standing here, but had been placed here singly, probably to support a statue. Ch. of aS^. Alessandro. This church belonged to the Barnabites, by whom it was rebuilt in 1602, from a design of one of their order, Lorenzo Binaghi. The interior is the richest in Milan in paint- ing and decoration, withovit containing any work deserving of being particularly noted. Over the nave rises a large cupola, and at the intersection of the transepts a smaller one. The fagade, with its 2 bell-towers, is incomplete. The Barnabites, in 1723, established here, in emulation of the Jesuits, a college for noble famihes ; whence the neighboui'ing street acquired the name of Contrada dei Nobili, recently re- baptized deir Unione. The large pa- lace opposite this ch. belongs to the Trivulzi family, one of the most his- torically celebrated in Italy. Ch. of San Antonio^ built in 1632, from the designs of F. Hichini, It con- tains 7 chapels richly ornamented with marbles and paintings. The vault of the nave is painted in fresco, by Car- lone ; the subjects relate to the Cruci- fixion and the Miracles of the Cross. The choir is painted by Moncalvo : the subjects are taken from the history of St. Paul the Hermit, and St. Anthony the patron saint. In the first chapel on the rt. hand the picture of St. Andrea di Avellino is by Cerano. The Nativity, in the 2nd chapel, is by JB^ Canipi^ and another further on by one of the Caracci. In the principal chapel on the 1., Christ bearing his Cross is by Palma G-lovane. In the chapel of the Annunciation are various works of G. C. Frocaccini. San^ Bernardino dei Morti, in the Piazza del Yerzaro ; an octagonal church, with a cupola ; attached to it is a sepidchral chapel, entirely walled with skulls and bones symme- trically disposed. Some say ihat they are the remains of the Cathohcs slain by the Arians in the time of St. Am- brose. They are not, however, considered as relics ; and the exhibition of these gloomy tokens of mortality is merely intended to excite devotional feelings. The oblations for masses are said to amount annually to between 10,000 and 15,000 hre. K2 196 Route 21. — Milan : ChufcJies. Sect. III. San Carlo JBorromeo, in the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele, built by contribu- tions raised amongst the inhabitants of Milan after the first invasion of the cholera, from the designs of Amati. The first stone was laid on the 29th of Dec. 1838. It is an extensive circular edifice, surmounted by a dome, and only second in size to the Pantheon at Rome, its diameter being 105 feet, its height 120 feet, and with the lantern 150; it is consequently larger than either the domes of Possagno or Grhisalba. In front is a fine Corinthian peristyle, opening on a square, surrounded by a portico of granite columns of the same order. The interior has still an unfinished, bare look, notwithstanding the 24 magnificent colimms of red Baveno granite wlhcli decorate it. Amongst the works of art Avhich it contains, the most remarkable are Marchesi^s group of the dead Saviour and Yirgin, called il Yenerdi Santo : and in an opposite chapel, San Carlo ad- ministering the Sacrament to a young man, by the same artist. The high altar is a handsome structure in white marble and gilt bronze. The chapel of San Vincenzo da Paola has a bas-relief of the saint over the altar, and a good modern painted glass window of St. Charles administering the Sacrament during the plague ; the paintings on the cupola represent St. Charles carried to heaven by angels, or his Grlorifica- tion. The outer appearance of the edifice is poor, from the disproportion of the immense dome with the low peristyle and colonnade. The old church of the Servi, wliich contained some good paintings, was pulled down to make room for the portico. San Celso, in the Borgo San Celso. In a fiel^ called ''ad Tres Moros " St. Ambrose, in 396, discovered the bodies of SS. Nazarus and Celsus, martyrs. St. Nazaru.s he dug up and deposited in the church of the Sant' Apostoli : but over that of S. Celsus, which was al- lowed to remain in its original resting- place, he built a small ch., afterwards enlarged, and restored in 1651. There only uow remains the choir, an ancient paintmg in a lunette, and a door with symbolical ornaments of the 10th centujg^. The square brick campanile is a good specimen of this class of edifices of the 13th or 14tli centy. Dm'ing the recent repairs several frag- ments of early Christian sculpture, amongst others a Christian sarco- phagus of the 4tli centy., which were dug up in the neighbourhood, have been placed on the walls, and the front painted to represent an atrium, which is supposed to have stood in fr'ont of this ch., similar to that of St. Am- brogio. Adjoining this is the fine ch. of La Madonna di S. Celso (see p. 200). S. Eustorgio^ situated at the end of the Borgo di Cittadella, near the Porta Ticinese. The subm-b of the Porta Ticinese was first surrounded with a wall by the Yiscontis, and called Cittadella, a name which thus remains. This church is one of the oldest in Milan, having been dedicated in the fourth century, a.d. 320, by Arch- bishop Eustorgius, who is said to have deposited in it the bodies of the three Magi, presented to him by the Em- peror Constantine. It is one of the few remains of ancient Milan which escaped destruction from Barbarossa. It has been recently restored in good taste, dur- ing which several paintings, not, how- ever, of a very remote date, have been discovered on the piers of the nave, and numerous very curious bas-reliefs of the 10th and 12th centuries on the capitals of these piers. After many vicissi- tudes it was attached to a Dominican convent. This order established them- selves, and the tribunal of the Inqui- sition, here, in 1218. At their ex- pense the church, or rather aggrega- tion of chiu'ches, which is now called S. Eustorgio, was reduced to its present form by Tomaso Lombardino. The cam- panile was built between 1297 and 1309. The clim^ch was finally reduced to its present form by F. RicMni. As a re- pository of sepulchral monuments it is the most interesting in Milan. These are pointed to by Cicognara as worthy of more notice than they generally receive. All have suffered more or less from Yan- LOMBARDY. Boute 21. — Milan: Churches, 197 dalism diu*iiig the first occupation of the French, and of the C'isalpme Re- pubUc. The armorial bearings have been completely defaced, the inscrip- tions of titles of nobility and honoiu' chiseled out. In then* present state it is very diiiicult to make out to whom several of the tombs belong. In the first chapel on tlie rt. the monument of Stefimo Brivio (ob. 1485) is of very delicate cinquecento work. It is said to be from a design of Bramante. Over the altar are 3 paintings by Borgo- gnone^ the subjects are the Virgin with Infant Saviour, and two Saints. The next, the chapel of St. Dominick, con- tains a monument to Pietro, a son of Gruido ToreUi, Lord of G-uastalla, of 1416. In the 4th chapel is the tomb of Stefano Yisconti, son of Matteo Magno ; the sarcophagus wdth its Gothic canopy supported by spiral co- lumns restmg on marble hons. In the 6th chapel, dedicated to Bt. James^ is the fine tomb of Glasparo Visconti, though mutilated, and the armorial bearings upon the sliields obhterated, by the repubhcans of 1796 ; but some traces of the insignia of the Order of the Garter may yet be discerned. Gasparo obtained this distinction in conse- quence of his having been repeatedly despatched to the court of Edward III., upon the negotiations for the matri- monial alhances efiected or proposed between our Royal Family and the Yiscontis : he died about 1430. On the sarcophagus are rehefs of the Adora- tion of the Slagi. The opposite tomb of Agnes, the wife of Gasparo, has been also much injured. It appears to have been taken down and the frag- ments rebuilt, but not' exactly in their original position. The costume of the principal figure is curious : she holds an immense rosary. In the chapel on tlie right of the high altar is an enormous sarcophagus, destitute of sculptures or inscriptions, wliich once held the rehcs of the three kings of the East. When we say that it has no inscription, we exclude a modern one in large gilt letters, — "Sepulchrum trium magorum," At I the approach of Frederick Barbarossa ' the citizens removed the relics from this chui'ch, which then stood without the walls, to another, deemed more secure. But in vain ; upon the fall of the city tlie relics became the trophies of the vic- tor, and Ai'chbishop Rinaldus, of Co- logne, carried them off to his own city. Opposite is a bas-rehef representing the Nativity, and the Adoration of the three Kings, wliich, as appears from the inscription beneath, was put up in 1347. It is supposed to have been exe- cuted by some of the scholars of Bal- diiccio da Fisa. A passage leads from the subterranean chapel under the choir to the sacristy and the chapel of S. Peter Martyr. It was erected by a Florentine, Pigello dei Portinari, in 1460, and in it has been placed the shrine or sepulcln-e of this saint, a work of Balduccio himself, which is an exceed- ingly beautiful specimen of Tuscan art. Cicognara considers it as a mas- terpiece. Balduccio was one of the artists invited by Azzo Yisconti for the adornment of his metropolis. The general plan is like that of the shrine of Edward the Confessor in Westmin- ster Abbey ; a lower story, a base sup- ported by eight beautiful pilasters, with statues in front, and the sepulchral urn above. Statues, full of simphcity, stand on the Gothic pilasters below ; the Doctors of the Church, St. Thomas and St. Eustorgius round the urn. More interesting to the stranger, be- cause more novel, are the allegorical representations of the Yirtues. Beyond the Alps such allegories are rare ; not occurring very often in the Gothic buildings of France, and still more sel- dom in England, but they are amongst the peculiar characteristics of the Pisan school ; — Charity, — Faith, — Fortitude. — Prudence represented as having three faces, contemplating past, present, and futm'c. — Hope looking upwards and grasping a nosegay of budding flowers. — Obedience holding a Bible. — Tem- perance pouring forth water from a vase. On the tomb above are eight bas-reliefs, representing events in the life of St, Peter Martyr. Balduccio 198 Route 21. — Milan: Churches, Sect. III. has subscribed his name and date to this monument, — "Magister Johan- nes Balducci de Pisis, sculpsit hane archam, anno Domini 1339." The material is white marble. A likeness of Pigello is preserved in an ancient painting above the door. On one of the walls of this chapel is the sepulchral inscription of George Merula, the his- torian. The high altar has been recently restored ; over it are the nine bas-rehefs relative to the Saviour's Passion and the Crucifixion, given by Grian' Graleazzo. In the Piazza outside of the ch. is a pulpit, from which it is said that Peter Martyr preached to the multitude against the Cathari and other heresies which then abounded in Milan. It is a species of Paul's Cross pulpit. Fra' Pietro did not, however, content himself with preaching, but worked out in practice what has been approvingly styled " the theory of persecution." He exercised without mercy the office of inquisitor in the monastery of the Dominicans formerly attached to this cluu'ch, and fell a victim quite as much to the fears as to the revenge of those who slew him near Barlassina, 6th of April, 1252. The Church of Rome, in ad- miration of his principles and prac- tice, canonised him only 13 years after his death. In the same square is a statue of Peter Martyr, on an elevated granite column. The adjoining convent was, in 1798, turned into a barrack. S, Fedele, one of the most elegant churches in Milan, built for the Jesuits by S. Carlo, by whom they were esta- blished here. It is from the designs of Pellegrini. The bas-reliefs of the front are by Gaetano Monti of Ravenna and his pupils, and have considerable merit. Since the suppression of the Jesuits the adjoining college has been converted into the Repository of the Ruhlic Archives^ which contains many documents of great interest on the mediaeval history of Italy. San Fedele may be called the fashionable church of Milan, as the visitor will see by going there at high mass on Sundays. S. Giorgio in Valazzo was founded in 750, by Saint Natahs. The fa9ade was restored in 1800, by B. 'Ferrari. The interior in 1821, by Canonica. It has thus been much modernized. The frescoes on the ceihng of the choir are by >S'. Mont alto. It also con- tains, in the 1st chapel on the rt., a St. Jerome, by Gaudenzio Ferrari^ and, in the 3rd on the same side, a Deposition over the altar and an Ecce Homo, on one of the piers, by B, Luini, amongst the best pictures of the master. Both are in good preserva- tion, but in an execrable light ; there are some fair frescoes of the Crucifixion on the arch of this chapel. Sa7i Giovanni in Conca, shut up and desecrated. The front exhibits a curious mixture of the chcular and pointed styles ; the central entrance and the rose window over it are good. The figure of St. John the Evangelist over the door, in a Conca or oil caldron, explains the name of the ch. Here were the tombs of the Yisconti family. The monument of Bernabo has been removed to the Brera museum. Adjoining the ch. is a lofty bell-tower, long used as a meteorological observatory. To the 1. of this ch. is what was the Casa Sforza : over the door is a fine uninjured shield of their arms, rarely seen in Milan, and busts of the Emps. Titus and Nero ; and on the rt. a house called Dei Cani, from the dogs which Bernabo Yisconti kept in it. S. Lorenzo. In the Corso di P. Ti- cinese, close to this church, stand the Colonne di San Lorenzo^ the most con- siderable vestige of the architectural magnificence of Roman Milan. These columns, 16 in immber, are of the Co- rinthian order. Mouldering, fire-scathed, shattered by violence, these relics con- trast strangely with the bustle and vivacity of the street in which they stand. According to the earliest Mi- lanese historians, they are portions of the Temple of Hercules, built by Maxi- minian in honour of his tutelary deity. Modern antiquaries consider them as portions of the peristyle of the baths of LOMBARDY. Route 21. — Milan: Churches, 199 Hercules, commemorated by Ausoiiius ill the epigram which we have before cited; and the constructions which can yet be traced in the adjoining church seem to confirm this conclu- sion. An inscription in honour of Lucius Yerus, built into a pier, has evidently no concern with the columns, and another, containing the fol- lowing letters, a. p., on what is T. I. s. supposed to be a part of tlie original edifice, does not afibrd much explana- tion. The style has been assigned to the 3rd centmy. The increased intercolumniation of the 8 columns on the 1. is an irregularity found in the nearly contemporary palace at Spalatro. The ancient church of San Lorenzo fell down in 1573. It had previously sustained many mischances, particularly in 1071, when it was burnt. It was by this fire that the columns were so much damaged. Pellegrini, the builder of the Escurial, a good painter as well as an architect, was em- ployed by San Carlo Borromeo to give the designs for the new structure, but they were partly altered by Martino Bassi. The interior was rebuilt in some degree upon the plan of San Tltale, at Kavenna, and has 8 sides, 4 being filled by lofty arches enclosing recesses or galleries. The arches which fill the in- tervals are smaller ; 2 orders are employ- ed, the lower is Doric with octagonal pilasters, the higher Ionic. The arches are sm^mounted by a Doric cornice, which serves as the impost to the cu- pola, D, regular octagon, having a win- dow in each compartment. In a chapel behind the high altar is the mausoleum erected by Gaspare Yisconti to Gio. Conti in 1538. At the first altar on the rt. hand the pictures are by A. Luini. The Baptism of our Saviour is pleasing. There are also, in other jDarts of the ch., the Martyrdom of SS. Hippolytus and Cassianus, by Ercole Procaccini — the "Visitation, by Mo- razzone — and a good fresco, represent- ing the discovery of the body of Sta. J^atalia, by E. Procaccini, On the rt. the basilica communicates with the chapel of St. Aquilinus, founded by Ataulphus, the King of the Goths and successor of Alaric, but who aspired to the glory of being the restorer, not the destroyer, of Rome. In this chapel, which, excepting the cupola, is ancient, although entirely modernised on the surface, is the remarkable tomb of Ataulphus, who married Galla Placidia, daughter of Theodosius the Great, whose part in the history of the de- cline of the Boman empire is that of a heroine of romance conquering her vic- tor by her charms. The tomb bears a considerable resemblance to that of his wife at Bavenna, and, like hers, without an inscription, and of very plain workmanship. The monogram of Christ (with the descending dove oyer a cross) and a species of Bunic knot, with two lambs, are the only ornaments. In the chapel are two very early Chris- tian mosaics, perhaps amongst the old- est existing specimens of Christian art : they represent — that on the right, our Lord in the midst of the Apostles — a fountain gushes from his feet as an emblem of the living waters ; and on the left. Shepherds and their flocks, and the Sacrifice of Isaac. It is thought, and with some probability, tliat this part of the building was ori- ginally one of the chambers of the an- cient baths. The shrine of St. Aqui- linus is a rich specimen of pietra-dura work. The entrance door of the chapel is oftlie lower empire, and covered with sculpture. A short way beyond this ch. is the recently rebuilt Porta Ticinese, with its flanking square towers. The central arch, in marble, is ancient and fine; on the side overlooking the canal is a mediaeval bas-relief of the Yirgin, seated between the protecting saints of the city. S. Marco, Bmlt in 1254. The fa- gade is'Gothic ; the interior was modern- ized in the last centy. It contains some paintings by Lomazzo ; the best is the Madonna and Infant, with saints, in the 3rd chapel on rt. Over the high altar is a rich circular tabernacle 200 Route 21, — Milan: Churches, Sect. III. in the forik ol a Corintliian temple. ' The 4 large pictures on each side are by C. Procaccini and Cerano. In the vestibule opening out of the rt.-hand transept facing the Naviglio are several mediaeval monuments in marble : one of Lanfranco Septala, the first general of the Augustinian Order, who died in 1243, is attributed to Balduccio of Pisa — he is represented seated teaching amidst his pupils, his recumbent statue on the urn above ; and another, with good sculptures, of 1344, to one of the Aliprandi family, on which the heads of the principal personages have been painted and gilt ; and a third with a Crucifixion, and a professor teaching. The fa9ade has a good marble round-arch entrance, above which, in 3 handsome brick niches, are statues ; the central one of St. Mark. The rose window, now bricked up, is very large ; over the two pomted win- dows, also bricked up, are some curious low reliefs in brickwork, and 2 round windows in the lateral gables. The ad- joining conventual buildings belonged to the Order of St. Augustine. Sta. Maria del Carmine. This church has undergone two transformations. It was built by the Carmehtes in 1446, in a Gothic style. In 1660 this was altered, as far as possible, into Roman by Hichini, and restored to its original state by Fizzagalli in 1835. It contains two ancient Lombard pictilres, and a Madonna with SS. Roch and Sebastian in fresco, by B. I/tiini. The chapel at the side in- crusted with marbles and gilt stucco contains on the waUs two pictures by Camillo Proeaccini. Sta. Maria presso San Celso^ more generally known as La Madonna. A very splendid building, one of the ricli- est churches of Milan. According to tradition, St. Ambrose, on the spot on which he found the re- mains of St. Nazarus and St. Celsus, placed a picture of the Madonna, who afterwards, on the 30th Decem- ber, 1483, appeared there. The miracle drew so many persons to the small church which had been built in 1429 by Fihppo Maria, that it was resolved to erect a splendid church on the spot, and this was commenced in 1491 from the plans of Bramante. In front ot the ch. is a handsome square court, 3 of the sides formed of 5 Corinthian arches, the capitals of the half-columns as well as of the pilasters in bronze. The facade was begun by Bramante, or, as others say, by Gohho Solaro, carried on a'nd altered in 1572 by Martino Bassi^ and completed by Alessio, to whom the present design is principally due. The sculptures of the facade are re- markable. The two statues of Adam and Eve, and the bas-reliefs of the Annun- ciation, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Flight into Egypt, are by Stoldo Lorenzi, a Florentine ; the rest are by Annihale Fontana, a Milanese. The capitals of the columns of the interior are of bronze. The rich organ over the entrance has statues of pro- phets on each side, by Fonta7ia, and is supported by caryatides by Bassi. 12 statues stand round the 12-sided cupola. The pendentives, and two of the lu- nettes beneath, were painted by Appi- ani in 1797. Below, on the pilasters which support tlie dome, is a statue of St. John the Baptist, by Fontana, and two others by Lorenzi. The 4th space is occupied by the rich altar of the Virgin, on which the miraculous painting is preserved. The altar is rich in silver and gold, the sculptures by Fontana. The wood-work of the stalls is by Taurini. According to the ori- ginal design there should only have been 2 altars, but several have been since added. In the 1st recess on the rt. hand is a Deposition, or Pieta, by G. C. Pro- eaccini ; the smaller pictm^es are by Nuvolone. Over the altar in the next recess is the Martyrdom of St. Nazarus and St. Celsus, also by G. C. Proeaccini. They were beheaded at Milan, under Nero, A.D. 69. The mother of San Naza- rus was Perpetua, who had received the faith from St. Peter. The roof of the nave is richly decorated with sunken and gilt circular and octagonal panels. At the altar of the Crucifixion the LOMBARDY. Route 21. — Milan : Churches, 201 St. Joseph is by is. JProcaccini. The Baptism in the Jordan, 4th recess on rt., is by Gaudenzio Ferrari. In the principal chapel of the rt.-hand tran- sept are, a tine picture representmg St. Jerome kneeUng before the Infant Saviom*, and a predella with some small pictures, by Faris Fordone . In the spaces of the circnit behind the choir are several paintings. The Eesurrec- tion, in the 1st, is by A, Campl. The pictures in the 2nd, 3rd, and 5th are by Carlo Urbino. The Martyrdom of St. Catherine is by Cerano. St. Jerome, in the 6th, is by Calisto Fiazza. The Conversion of St. Paid, in the 7th, by Moretto. In the principal chapel of the 1. transept the Assmnption is by C. Frocaccinijand in 1st chapel on 1. a good Madonna and Child by Forgognone. Close to here is the very ancient ch. of St. Celso (p. 196). Santa Maria delle Grazie. In the Borgo delle G-razie, which leads to the P. Magento. — This church, with the convent of Dominicans to which it was annexed, was founded (1463) upon the site of barracks belonging to the troops of Francesco Sforza L, by Coimt Grasparo Yimercati, then com- mander-in-chief of the ducal army. A considerable portion of the mihtary buildings was converted, in the first in- stance, into'an habitation for the friars ; the church was built afterwards. In a small chapel in the house of Yimercati, wliich is stiU preserved on the 1. of the nave, was a miraculous image of the Yirgin. This, together with his house, Yimercati bestowed on the Dominicans, who, pulling down the whole, built the present chm-ch on its site. The first stone was laid in 1464. Its progress was slow, not having been completed till after 1493. Ludovico il Moro and his wife Beatrice were liberal contributors to the church, and she was buried here. The front is a fair specimen of Lom- bard Grotliic of brick, with ornaments in terracotta. The interior which con- sists of a wide Gothic nave, separated from the aisles by 7 pointed arches, surmounted by a groined vault ^ is stiU grand. At the end of the nave rises the cupola by Framante, covered with miserable modern chiaro scuro paint- ing. In the second chapel on the rt. is a St. John the Baptist, attributed to Francesco d^Adda. In the fourth are some noble fi'cscoes by Gaudenzio Fer- rari. Three compartments, dated 1542, contain the principal events of the Pas- sion of our Lord, but are unfortunately much injured. The vaulting of the chapel retains its paintings in their original full and vigorous tone. The figures introduced — Angels bearing the instruments of the Passion — are very fine. G-audenzio exerted his utmost skill in these paintings, ex- pecting to have an order for the altarpiece, but Titian w^as preferred, his celebrated Saviour crowned with Thorns, now in the Louvre, having stood here. Amongst the other frescoes are, in the 5th chapel on rt., a Cruci- fixion over the altar, and Angels on the vaulting, by Carlo di Crema : and seve- ral on the roof of the last chapel on the rt., and upon the vaults c the choir, by the school of Lccnardo da Vinci. The choir itself is richly painted by Maleotto, and has some good in- tarsia work in the stalls. The high altar is a fine specimen of richly inlaid marble w^ork. A liiglily decorated chapel, out of the 1. aisle contains a good fresco, probably by Zenale^ with immerous portraits of the family for whom it was painted ; it is much in- jured. In the sacristy, entered through the smaller cloisters out of the 1. transept, are a series of presses for holding the priests' vestments, handsomely deco- rated with arabesques and tlic shields of the Yiscontis and Sforzas. They are good in design ; they liave been erroneously attributed to B. Luini. When the friars were expelled, the monasteiy again reverted to its primi- tive destination of military quarters ; but part of the conventual buildings not occupied by the soldiers continue ' to communicate with the church. Two deserted cloisters, and the wall 3 of the sacristy are covered with portraits of 202 Route 21. — Milan t Sta, Maria dell Graz, Sect. III. the celebrities of the order, and the third with scenes of events in which the Order played a part, and the Grlori- iication of St. Thomas Aqninas. ' In the refectory, entered from the outer cloister, and by a gate opening out of the corner of the Piazza, where the custode is always to be found, is the cele- brated Cenacolo, or Last Suppee, of Leonardo da Yinci. Perhaps no one work of art has had more written about it, and none deserving higher praise. " This pictm-e of the Last Supper has not only been grievously injured by time, but parts are said to have been painted over again. These niceties may be left to connoissem-s — I speak of it as I felt. The copy exhibited in London some years ago, and the engraving by Mor- ghen, are both admirable ; but in the original is a power which neither of those works has attained, or even ap- proached." — Wordsicorth, The history of the painting and its mischances may be briefly stated. It was begun in 1493, being among the first works which Leonardo executed under the patronage of Ludovico il Moro. An anecdote is told by Vasari concerning the composition : that Leo- nardo told the Duke he must leave the head of the Saviour imperfect because he could not reaUse his conception of the celestial beauty it ought to possess : " Ancor gli mancava due teste da fare, quella di Cristo, della quale non voleva cercare in terra e non poteva tanto pen- sare, che nella imaginazione gli paresse poter concepire quella belezza e celeste grazia, che dovette essere in quella della divinita incarnata." And yet this very liead, which Leonardo is so said to have left imperfect, is now one of the finest portions of the whole. Leonardo em- ployed sixteen years upon the work ; but he used a new process, which proved its ruin. The ground is plas- ter, impregnated with mastic or pitch, melted in by means of a hot iron. This ground he covered with a species of priming, composed of a mixture of white lead and some earthy colours, which took a fine polish, but from which the oil colour flaked off. The materials with which the wall was built are of a very bad quahty, rendermg it susceptible of injury from damp. As early as 1500 the refectory seems to have been flooded, owing to its low situation. The vicinity of the kitchen smoked the painting, wliich ex- hibited early symptoms of decay. Ar- menini, who saw it about 50 years after it was painted, said it was then half spoiled, and Scanelli, who saw it in 1642, speakmg hyperbohcally, observed that it was then difficult to discover the subject. In 1652 the monks, wish- ing to enlarge the door, cut away Christ's feet and those of some of the Apostles, and, by shaking the wall in cutting it away, brought ofi* parts of the surface. In 1726, Bellotti, an indifferent artist of much pretension, who painted the fresco over the door of the adjoining church, persuaded the monks he was possessed of a secret method which would entirely restore the faded paint- ing. He concealed himself behind planks, and painted it all over. In 1770, Mazza, a wretched dauber, was employed to go over the whole of it again. The three heads, however, to the extreme right of the spectator, escaped, m consequence of the outcry wliich the proceeding raised. When Napoleon was at Milan in 1796 he visited the refectory ; and, sit- ting on the ground, he wrote, placing his pocket-book upon his knee, an or- der that the spot should be exempted from being occupied by the military. This order was disobeyed, and the room was employed as a cavalry stable, and afterwards as a hay magazine. The door was then for some time built up in order effectively to exclude the military. In 1800, owing to the drain being blocked up, and rain falling for 15 days, the refectory was flooded to a considerable depth. In 1801, on the instance of Bossi, the secretary of the Academy, it was re- opened, and in 1807 the Yiceroy Eu- gene caused the refectory to be repaired and drained, and everything done Vt^hich might in any way tend to preserve the remains of the painting. It is, how- LOMBARDY. Route 21. — Milan: Churches, 203 ever, now again scaling off, not very rapidly, but incessantly ; and tliis is, perhaps, the last generation whose eyes will behold its beauties, even yet so transcendent in then* irreparable decay. Professor Barozzi of Parma is said to liave discovered a means of preventing tlie painting flaking off, which he has only yet appUed to a small portion of it. The late Professor Pliillips, E.A., in 1825, "examined its condition with care- ful and mmute attention, and could with difficulty find a portion of its original surface. The little I did find exhibited an exceedingly well prepared ground, smooth in the highest degree, and the paiuting upon it free, firm, and pure." " Till tliis time all paintmgs on walls had been wrought in fresco; but oil painting, which had become known and practised in smaller w^orks, better suited da Ymci's mode of proceeding, as it admits of retouching or repeat- ing : and, unfortunately, he adopted it here. He was not, how^ever, the first who had employed it in that way; Domenico Yeneziano, and one or two others, had made tempting examples for him, and thus led to a result so unfavourable to his reputation. "It would appear that the vehicle which he employed, whatever it were, had no union with the ground, and therefore the surface cracked; and whenever damp found its way tln-ough those cracks, and between the painting and the ground, small parts of the former were tln^own off, till at length large blotches were formed, exhibiting the white preparation beneath. These have at various times been filled up ; and it had been well if with that filhng up had rested the efforts of the re- storers. But their attempts to match the remaining colours failing, as I sup- pose, they have taken the shorter me- thod of cm^e, by repainting the w^iole surface of the part they were requfred to mend ; so that, at the present time, little or nothing, it may be said, re- maiQs of Leonardo, save the composi- tion and the forms generally." " Of the heads, there is not one un- touched, and many are totally ruined. Fortunately, that of the Saviour is the most pure, being but faintly retouched ; and it presents even yet a most perfect image of that divine character. Whence arose the story of its not having been finished it is now diflicult to conceive ; and the history itself varies among the writers who have mentioned it. But perhaps a man so scrupulous as Leon- ardo in the definement of character and expression, and so ardent in his pur- suit of them, might have expressed him- self unsatisfied, where all others could see only perfection." — Phillips^ Lec- tures, p. 65. "That part w-hich is to the rt. hand of the large dish, under the figure of our Saviour, including an orange, a glass of wine, a portion of two loaves, and a large piece of the tablecloth just about and under these objects, are, in my opinion, the only part of this great work which have been untouched. These parts have all the beauty of finish to be found in da Yinci's oil pictm-es." — J. C. H. In his treatment of the subject, Leon- ardo adhered to the traditional style of composition, handed down from an early period, and peculiarly adapted to the position chosen for the picture. Placed at the upper end of the refec- tory, down the sides of which are ranged the tables of the monks, it con- nects itself with their circle, while it is, at the same time, exalted above them by its elevated position and the greater size of its figures. " This mode of com- position, which betrayed the earher artists into a disagreeably stiff and monotonous representation, and seems so unfavourable to the development of an animated action, is here enhveiied in the most varied manner, while a most naturally imagined connec- tion reduces it to an harmonious whole. The figure of Christ forms the centre ; he sits in a tranquil attitude, a little apart from tlie otliers ; the dis- ciples are ranged three and three toge- ther, and they form two separate groups on each side of the Saviour. These four groups in their general 204 Eoute 21. — Milan : Churches. Sect. III. treatment indicate a certain correspon- dence of emotion and a harmony in movement, united, however, with the greatest variety in gesture and in the expression of the heads." — Kugler. The figures of the Apostles are thus placed. The standing figm^e to the extreme left of the spectator, and on the right of the Saviour, is St. Bartholomew ; then they come in order thus : St. James the Less, St. Andrew, Judas, St. Peter, St. John. On the left of our Lord, beginning with the figure next to him, are St. Thomas (with the forefinger raised) , St . James the G-reater, St. Phihp, St. Matthew, St. Thaddseus, St. Simon. " The well-known words of Christ, * One of you shall betray me,' have caused the hvehest emotion. ^ ^ ^ The two groups to the left of Christ are fiill of impassioned excitement, the figures in the first turning to the Sa- viour, those in the second speaking to each other ; horror, astonishment, sus- picion, doubt, alternate in the various expressions. On the other hand, still- ness, low whispers, indirect observa- tion, are the prevailing expressions in the groups on the right. In the middle of the first group sits the betrayer, a cunning sharp profile : he looks up hastily to Christ, as if speaking the words ' Rabbi, is it I ? ' while true to the scriptural account, his left hand and Christ's right hand approach, as if un- consciously, the dish that stands be- tween them." — Kugler. Copies have been at various times made of this celebrated work : the best of which is, one by Marco d'Oggiono, a pupil of L. da Yinci, now preserved in the Grallery of the Academy at Brera. Another by Bianchi, including tlie upper half of the figures only, made by order of Cardinal F. Borromeo, is in the Am- brosian Library. Bossi, by direction of the Yiceroy Eugene, in 1807, made with great care a cartoon drawing of the size of the original, and after- wards an oil painting, from which a mosaic was executed. This mosaic is now at Yienna; the cartoon is in the Leuchtenberg gallery at Mu- nich ; the oil-painting in the Brera. At the opposite end of the refec- tory is a painting which, anywhere else, would attract great attention, but which is generally overlooked in consequence of its vicinity to the Cenacolo. It is a very large and well- preserved fresco of the Crucifixion by Montorfano, with his name and the date 1495. It contains a great number of figures grouped without any confu- sion, one of the best conceptions of a multitude we have almost ever seen, and full of merit. The good condition of this painting causes one the more to regret that Leonardo did not employ fresco. His error is very curiously ex- emplified on this same wall. You see two white spaces in the corners. Here Leonardo painted in oO. the portraits of the donors of the Cenacolo, but only a trace of the figures can be discerned. Sta. Maria delta Passione. Opposite to the end of the Yia della Passione, close to the ex-Archinto palace, and between the Porta Yenezia and Porta Yittoria, stands this ch., built in 1485. The fine cupola was raised in 1530, from the design of Solaro. Its height from the pavement is 160 ft. The fa9ade was added in 1692. It is heavy and overloaded : upon it are 3 fine high-reliefs, representing the ' Scourging of our Lord — the Crown- ing with Thorns — the Entombment. The interior is divided into a nave and two aisles, and the original design of a Grreek cross has been altered into a Latin one, with 8 chapels in each aisle. On the rt. at the end of the transept, is a Crucifixion, by G, Campi; the roof above it is pamted in fresco, by his brother Antonio; near this is the tomb of two of the Biraghi family, Daniel, Bishop of Mytelene, on the urn above, Erancis below ; a w^ork of Andrea Fusina, It is the only speci- men which can certainly be attributed to this artist, almost unknown, but who was amongst the best sculptors of Lombardy. Oicognara, speaking of this monument, says, " its general pro- portions, the grace of its ornaments, the beauty of the several parts, all LOMBARDY. Eoute 21. — Milan: ChurcJies. 205 are in the best taste and the utmost elegance." On the 1. the baptistery contains the supper of San Carlo, by Daniel Crespi ; the first chapel, a St. Ubaldo, by Bianchi ; the fifth on l.,a St. Francis, by Camillo Frocaccini; the last, Christ going to Calvary, a work of the school of L. da Vinci, In the chapel of the 1. transept is a Last Supper by Gaudenzio Ferrari, and Christ in the G-arden, one of the best works of Salmeggia. The Flagellation, the Re- surrection, and the long pictures on the pilasters of the high altar are also by him. Much expense has been bestowed upon the liigh altar ; the ciborium is of pietra dura ; and behind it is a paint- ing, almost a miniature, upon marble, by Camillo Frocaccini, representing the Deposition of our Lord. The principal ornament, however, is the altarpiece, a Fieta, by F. Fiiini, in his first manner. The doors of the organ are painted in chiar'-oscuro by Crespi and Carlo Urbino. Those on the rt.-hand side are by Urhino. By Crespi also are the small pictures of the Four Doc- tors of the Church, and the 8 pic- tures fixed to the great pillars, and representing the History of our Lord's Passion. The interior of the apse is painted by Nuvolone. The sacristy is a noble apartment. In the lunettes are paintings of saints and prelates who have belonged to the order of the once adjoining convents, worthy of Borgog- none. The monastery connected with this church has, since 1808, been occu- pied by the Conservatorio di Musica, the most celebrated training school in Italy for theatrical music. San Maurizio Maggiore, in the Yia di Magenta, called also the Mo- nastero Maggiore, on account of its rich endowments and the numerous privileges bestowed upon it and the adjoining convent by King Desiderius and the Emperor Otho. It is said to stand upon the site of a temple of Jupiter, whence the columns sup- porting the canopy over the high altar at Sant' Ambrogio were brought, and to have been one of tlie three buddings exempted by Barbarossa from the general destruction of Milan. Of the building of that early period, however, few traces remain, except in the two towers, the one round the other square (used as prisons for some of the Lombard martyrs), which are embellished witli some coarse paint- ings and niches. One of the towers is traditionally asserted to have been of the 300 erected by the Romans which defended the city ; a frag- m-cnt of Roman wall was discovered in the monastery. The present con- struction is chiefly the work of Folce- bono (1497-1506), a pupil of Bra- mante ; the facade is by Ferovano (1565). The interior of the church is divided into two parts by a screen reaching to the height of the upper cornice. The half which serves for public worship is arranged in the same manner as the inner church, which belonged exclusively to the monastery. Grreat elegance of pro- portion is displayed in a series of four galleries, forming a kind of tri- forivim above a row of small chapels, while the triforium runs round the whole church. The architecture is of a refined order, and Bramantesque. The screen dividing the two portions of the clmrch is painted on both sides. On the outer one, or towards the ch. for the use of the public, the whole of the paintings are attributed to B. Luini. In the two lower compartments on each side of the high altar are 4 female figures of saints, with angels bearing torches between ; above in lunettes are kneeling portraits of the founders, with their patron saints, and still higher up the Martyrdom of St. Maurice and St. Sigismund. Between the latter the Assumption of the Virgin with nu- merous figures below, round her empty tomb. The 1st chapel on rt. is painted by GnoccM ; the 2nd has three saints on the side walls (Roch, Lawrence, and Greorge), and Futti, on each side of tlie modern barbarous altar, with bunches of fruit attributed to Luini; the 3rd chapel, perhaps the most interesting of the whole, is entirely painted by Luini, representing Christ bound to 206 Route 21. — Milan: Churches. Sect. III. the column between St. Catherine and St. Stephen, and the founder of the chapel kneehng before the former, on the side walls her Martyrdom, and on the vaults angels bearing the instru- ments of the Passion ; on the 1. side in 2nd chapel is St. Stephen preaching and put to death, by Aiirelio Lumi ; in the 3rd, the Eirth and Martyrdom of St John the Baptist, with the Baptism in the Jordan, by the same painter; and in the 4th, a Descent from the Cross, by pupils of B. Luini. The inner ch. or choir, entered by a door on 1. of the high altar : — the lower part of the screen has been con- verted into a chapel ; in the lunettes are paintings of Christ mocked, his Crucifixion, and Deposition in the se- pulchre ; and on the side-walls, our Sa- viour in the Grarden, witli 3 sleepmg Apostles, through v/liich a door has been barbarously cut, and the Resur- rection, almost invisible, admirable works of B. Luini; the Almighty with the 4 Evangelists, and Angels singing, are probably by Borgognone^ as also the beautiful half-figures in the gallery that runs round the church. The 3 lunettes on the upper part of the screen have the Last Supper, the Baptism in the Jordan, and the Resur- rection, but can be seen with difEculty, the Resurrection especially. The gal- lery, which is a continuation of that in the outer ch., is covered with ara- besques and paintings, and is very beautiful. San Nazaro Maggiore^ in the Cor so di Porta Romana. This basilica was founded by St. Ambrose (a.d. 382), and dedicated to the 12 Apostles. It was burnt in 1075, enlarged upon its being rebuilt, and again by San Carlo : the two principal chapels were added in 1653. The most interesting part of the ch. is thevestibule by which it is entered. This is the sepulchral chapel of the Trivulzis, and contains an interesting series of monuments of that illustrious family. They are remarkably simple, figures as large as life, in the armour, dress, and garb of the times, true por- traits in marble, resting upon their sar- cophagi in stucco, — Antonio (d. 1454), the father of the great Trivulzio, who, upon the death of the last Sforza, turned the dubious scale in favour of the Yis- contis. — The great Grian' Giacomo (died 1518), Marquess of Yigevano, his laurel- crowned head pillowed upon his corslet, with the inscription " Johannes Jaco- bus Magnus Trivultius Ant onii fihus, qui nunquam quievit quiescit, tace." This was the Trivulzio who, banished fi'om MilaUjreturnedatthe head of the French army, and may be said to have been the main cause of the ruin of his country. Those who had profited by his treason respected him not : the old warrior died broken-hearted, at the age of 80, and was buried, as the French say, at Bourg de Chartres, near Mont- Ihery. He was the founder of the chapel, as appears from an inscription yet remaining. — The two wives of the Marquis, Margherita CoUeoni, died 1488, and Beatrice d'Avalos, sister of the Marquis of Pescara. — Grian' !N'icolo, died 1512, the only legitimate son of the Marquis ; as zealous as his father in the interests of France, and who, had he lived, would probably have equalled liim in military fame. — Paola Gonzaga, the wife of Giannicolo ; Ippo- lita, Luigi, and Margarita — maiden, boy, and infant, children of Giannicolo, all lying side by side ; and, lastly, Gian' Francesco, died 1573, the son of Gian- nicolo, who served both Francis I. and Charles V., changing sides as was most convenient to him. It was he by whom these monuments were erected, as commemorated by him in an in- scription which seems to apply to the whole series. All the monuments, however, are cenotaphs, the bodies being deposited in the vaults below. The ch. of S. Nazaro, in the form of a Greek cross, is said to have been designed by Bramante^ and altogether is one of the most remarkable of its kind in Milan. On the cupola and four spandrils are frescoes by Vitale Sala. There is a copy of Gaudenzio Ferrari's Cena, by Lanini. A good fresco, representing the Martyrdom of St. Catherine, in the oratory of St. Caterina della Ruota, LOMBARDY. Boute 21. — Milan : Churches, 207 adjoiumg the church, was executed by the same painter in 1546. In tlie prin- cipal compartment, near the pikister of an arch, on the rt. hand, he has intro duced his portrait between those of G-audenzio Ferrari and Delia Cerva. S. Faolo, on the S. side of the open space in front of St. Eufemia. The side towards the piazza, coupled with Corinthian pillars above Doric, pro- jecting from the wall, is from the de- sign of Alessio. The front, which is in bad taste, has a bas-relief over the door, la Madonna di Loreto in the tympanum, and some long perpendi- cular compartments with emblems, beautifuUy executed. The interior is divided transversely by a screen, as at S. Maurizio, rising as high as the cor- nice, the fiu'ther part being occupied by tlie Augustinian nuns called the Angeli- che. San^ Fietro in Gessate (in the Corso di Porta Yittoria), so called from the Gessate family, who here founded a convent for the order of the Umiliati. The interior, consisting of a nave and two aisles, with 5 pointed arches supported on each side by mono- lith colmnns of grey granite, the groin- ed roof preserves its Gothic style un- altered. The arrangement of the choir dates fi'om 1640. In the third chapel on the rt. is a Madonna, with the infant Saviour by her side, of lAdni. D. Crespi painted the S. Mauro, to whom persons afflicted ^\ii\\ the sciatica performed pilgrimages in this church. The actions of the saint on the side walls are by Moncalvo, The frescoes in the 2nd chapel on the 1., representing the Marriage and Death of the "Virgin, are attributed to B. Zenale and B. da Treviglio. In the altar of the 3rd chapel on 1., a Madonna, in the centre an An- cona in 6 compartments of very ancient paintings, is by Bramantino or Vincen- zio Foppa. Some frescoes attributed to Zenale or Bernardo da Treveglio^ have been lately discovered in the ch, of St. Jerome, wliich forms the l.-hand transept. This ch. contained several good sepidchral monuments before its desecration in 1797, The most re- markable, to members of the Borromeo family, by Bamhaja, have been re- moved to the family chapel hi the Isola Bella: one with a recumbent figure, the flesh of white, the drapery . of red marble, near the high altar, is curious. The monastery adjoining this church Avas erected in 1509, and is in the style of the school of Bra- mante : it has 2 cloisters, with Doric columns, and arches with a frieze of brick. It is now used as an Orphan Asylum. San Satiro, in the Via di Torino, nearly surrounded by houses, is with- out facade or choir, but is a very graceful building inside. The original church was built by Archbishop An- spertus on the site of his own house, in the 9th centy. : the only remains of this is the chapel in the 1. transept, with four larger and several smaller columns of different materials and di- mensions, and with different capitals, all taken from earlier buildings, as was then usual. The present building was erected about 1480. It was intended to be in the form of a Latin cross ; but, from the space being occupied by the adjoining street, the choir is wanting, and its place is supplied by a perspective painted on the wall. This painting is as old as the church, but it has lately been retouched and refreshed. It can hardly be called a work of art, but, as a specimen of perspective, the deception is marvellous. Opening out of the rt. aisle, near the entrance to the ch. is the elegant octagonal sacristy, by Bramante, restored in 1857. The bas-reliefs, arabesques, and sculptures, which are very beautiful, are by Cara- dosso. S. Sehastiano has a good painting of the martyrdom of the patron saint by Bramantino. San Sepolcro (close to the Ambro- sian library) retains its ancient towers built in the 11th century ; the rest is modern. Over the door is a celebrated painting hj Bramantitio — a Dead Christ mourned by the Marys — but it is so shut up in glass and grating, to pro- tect it from the weather, tl^iat it is diffi- 208 Eoute 21,— Milan: Churches. Sect. III. cult to examine it. This church was the centre of the congregation of the ObJati, a body of priests founded by San Carlo, in order tliat they might, by stricter lives and more exemplary performance of their duties, check the Protestant Eeformation. The congre- gation has ceased to exist. S. Simpliciano^ in a small Piazza off Corso di Porta G-aribaldi. St. Ambrose erected a chapel here, over the burial- place of some saints, and S. Simplicianus deposited in it the bodies of Sisinius, Martirius, and Alexander. Tlie Milan- ese, when they defeated Barbarossa at Legnano^ believed that they were as- sisted by these martyrs, and that thi-ee doves, flymg from their altar, perched themselves upon the mast of the Caroccio, In consequence of this, a fine Lombard church was built here, which, after having undergone some alterations in 1582, in a different style, has been recently restored, pre- serving the Lombard portal. On the vault of the choir is a Coronation of the Yu-gin in fresco, by JBorgognone, a remarkable work for the simphcity and grace of the figures ; it is much injured. The rest of the interior has been completely modernised. Over the high altar is a good tabernacle, with a statue of the patron saint. San^ Stefano in Brolio^ in the Piazza del Yerzaro, the market for vegetables ("verzee") and fish, a very ancient ba- siHca, rebuilt by Archbishop Yisconti, the successor of San Carlo, and com- pleted by Cardinal Federigo Borromeo. It was also called St. Zaccaria alia Huota^ from a species of wheel of terra- cotta, with the inscription ^^Rota san- guinis Jidelium, " formerly fixed against a pillar, and afterwards deposited in the sacristy, but recently again concealed or removed. JSTear the pillar is a species of rude urn, now buried in the pavement up to its rim, and covered with a grating. This is called the " Pietra degli innocenti." Who the innocents were is a subject of great dis- cussion, and so also with respect to the "rota:" some say it commemorates martyrdoms in the earhest ages of the Church. In the modern history of Milan an important fact is connected with the "Pietra degU innocenti." Hard by perished one to whom that name did not apply, Graleazzo Maria Sforza, slain De- cember 26, 1476, by the three conspira- tors — Carlo Yisconti, Grirolamo Olgiato, and Giovann' Andrea Lampugnano. They were instigated by Cola Montane, a man of letters, who, fanaticised by the study of ancient history, urged his disciples — and he had many — to unitate the examples of those who had perished in the extirpation of tyranny. This church was judiciously restored in 1829. The rich Corinthian chapel to the rt. of the high altar built by Cardinal Trivulzio, governor of Milan (1656), was restored in 1844. The baptistery has been lately fitted up with modern stained glass by Oldrino, a ma- nufacturer in Milan. The ancient cam- panile having fallen down, the present one was built in 1642. San Tomaso in terra mala, or terra amara. The date of this church is 1580, but since much altered. The hexastyle Ionic portico was added in 1825. It contains a Magdalen by A. Luini, a S. Carlo by G. C. Procaccini, and a St. Anthony by the younger Sabatelli. It is said to derive its name from one of those acts so characteristic of the tyrants of Italy. The priest of the parish had refused to read the funeral service over one of his poor parish- ioners, unless his widow would pre- viously pay the fees. The woman burst out in loud lamentations ; when Griovanni Yisconti, riding by, asked the cause of the disturbance. — " Bury him gratis," exclaimed he to the priest, who complied ; but, hke the choristers in the ballad of the Old Woman of Berkeley, repeated the dirge with a quaver of consternation. And, when the service was finished, "Now," said Yisconti, " tlirow him in." And the miserable priest was buried ahve with his parishioner. The story adds that, as they were casting the earth over the priest, he cried out, "Come questa terra e amara!" from which the church derives its present name. LOMBARDY. Route 21. — Milan: San Gottardo, 200 San Vittore al Corpo^ in the Via di San Vittore: formerly tlic Ba- silica Porziana, vying in dignity with the cathedral. According to the traditions of the Church of Rome, an early convert, the Senator Oldanus, had two sons, Fortius and Faustus ; the latter built the basilica, which was incorporated afterwards in the Am- brosian. The former built this basi- lica, from hun called Porziana. It Avas the scene of the Emperor Theodosius' exclusion from the church by St. Am- brose, and of the latter' s victory over the Arians, and of the introduction of the canto alter no of the Ambrosian rite. At that time it was also known by the name of the " basilica extra- muranar It was first assigned to the Benedictines ; in 1507 to the Olivetans, by whom it was rebuilt in 1560, from the designs of Alessio. The facade is simpler than the usual style of this architect. He intended to add a magnificent cortile, but this part of the design was stopped in its progress. The interior is splendid. The vaulting exhibits that union of plastic work and colour which, almost peculiar to Italy, produces such an effect of elaborate magnificence. It is divided into compartments of raised work, foliage and figures, within which are paintings of saints, martyrs, and angels, not so small as to fritter away the general aspect, and not so large as to intrude upon the architecture. St. John and St. Luke, in the cupola, were painted by D. Crespi ; the other evan- gelists and the sibyls are by Moncalvo. The roof of the choir is by A. F'lgino : Src. Procaccini painted the compart- ments of theroof of the nave,and St. Ber- nardo above the door. St. Christoplier is by Ciocca; St. Peter by Gnocchi. The paintings in the choir on each side of the high altar are by Sahneggia ; St. Ber- nard, and St. Victor, the patron saint, on horseback, the horse leaping forward with much efiect. Another painting by Sahneggia represents Sta. Francisca Komana, the foundress of the order of the Oblate or CoUatine Nuns, comforted by the apparition of her guardian angel. Five Victors are honoured as saints by the western churches. The patron of this church suffered martyrdom upon the site which it now occupies. He was a soldier in the army of the Emperor Maximinian, by whose command he was tortured and beheaded, a.d. 303. In the Capella Arese, 6th on rt., de- signed by G. Qiiadri, with its black marble columns, the Madonna, angels, and prophets over the altar, were sculp- tured by Vismara. It contains the se- pulchres of the Arese family. In the last chapel on the rt. hand are three pictures by Camillo Frocaccini, subjects from the life of St. Gregory the Great, — his liitanies during the great pesti- lence, — his attending on the poor, — and the feast given by him after the cessation of the plague. In this composition the table is placed in singular angular perspective ; the sons of Totila are falling down before him. In the chapel of St. Benedict are some good paintings by Figino. The stalls of the choir are of the I7th cen- tury. They are of walnut-tree, and the carvings represent events in the life of St. Benedict. The sacristy is a fine room with noble wood carvings ; it also contains several good pictures, of which the best is the Martyrdom of Saint Victor, by Camillo Frocaccini, THE SECULAR EDIEICES OE MILAK. Falazzo delta Feale Corte^ close to the cathedral. This palace, which was the residence of the viceroys under the Austrian rule, and now of the King when he visits Milan, is built upon the site of the very magnificent one raised by Azzo Visconti about 1330, which was one of the largest and finest palaces in Italy, and decorated with paintings by Giotto. After repeated partial demolitions, tlie whole, excepting the church of San Gottardo^ included in the present palace as its chapel, was pulled down towards the close of the last century. Tlie steeple of St. Gothard^ built in 1336, is a curious specimen of mediaeval architecture ; it is of brick, except the 210 Route 21. — Milan: Royal Palace. Sect. III. little shafts at its eight angles and those aronnd the bell-loft, which are of stone. The four lower stories ap- pearing above the roof of the church are plain octagons, with unequal faces, with a roAV of ornamental intersecting arches to each cornice, and a shaft or bead at each angle, wliich interrupts all the cornices. There is a little win- dow in the lowest but one ; the fom^th has on each face a window di^ ided into two parts by a column, and each part finishes in a small semicircular arch. This sort of arrangement occurs in the early architecture of France, of the 11th, and perhaps of part of the 12th centy., but I think not later. In the fifth story, the angular shafts receive their capitals, and unite with other shafts on the faces of the octagon to support a series of little arches ; but as the angular shafts intersect the little cornices of each story, and con- sequently pass beyond the upright of the plain faces, while the intermediate shafts are within that line, the latter are broken into two heights, one pro- jecting before the other. Over tliis are two stories, rather smaller than those below, and forming ah equal- sided octagon ; and above all is a spire, cut to indicate scales or shingles, terminating in a globe, and a little winged figure supporting a weather- cock. These details strongly distinguish the Lombard buildings from similar edifices of the same period in France or England, and show the necessity of a new system of dates, wdien we would determine the epoch of a building by the peculiarities of its architecture. Though built in the 14tli centy., it exhibits more of what we call l^ov- man than of the Gothic ; and perhaps the Italians never entirely abandoned that mode of building for any con- sistent style, till the restoration of the Roman architecture in the 15th centy., under Brunell^schi. A portion of the terra-cotta apse behind the choir of the original ch. still remains. From the circumstance of the first striking clock having been placed in this tower the neighbpuring street acquired the name of " DeU' ore." A singular story is connected with the gilt brass angel on the summit. A bombardier, in 1333, being condemned to die, offered to strike off" the head of the figure at one shot, and, being allowed his trial, he succeeded ; and liis skill pur- chased his pardon. The angel con- tinued without a head till 1735, when it was restored. It was when proceeding to the church of San Grotardo that Giovanni Maria Visconti was slain, 16th May, 1412. The diabohcal fero- city of this tyrant had continued un- checked for ten years. It was his re- gular pastime to feed his bloodhounds with human victims, delighting in the spectacle as he saw the animals tear the quivering flesh from the bones. That his unbridled cruelty at last terminated in perfect insanity cannot be doubted. It is a curious fact that Giovanni Maria began his reign by granting a kind of Magna Charta to the Milanese, and that he was a liberal patron of literature. He is buried in the chapel, near the altar, but his tomb was de- stroyed by the French, and the interior of the chapel is now entirelymodernised. The exterior of the tribune retains its ancient aspect. The Royal Palace contains many modern frescoes. The show parts of the palace worthy of mention, are the following ; — Saloon : Night and Morning, by Martin Knoller, a Tyrolese, a scholar of Mengs. Salle- a-manger : ceiUng, the Four Seasons, by Trahallesi. Small Dining Room : a very elegant cabinet, with medal- lions on chiar'-oscuro. Sala di Frepre- sentazione : ceiling by Appiani and Hagez, Jupiter and Mercury. Sala di Udienza : ceiling by Appiani — His- tory inscribing the deeds of Napoleon upon the shield of Minerva; in the four angles, the four quarters of the globe. Royal Throne Room : by Ap- piani — the Apotheosis of Napoleon, he being represented as Jupiter upon an eagle : considered the best of the series. Present Throne Room : Mar- riage of Napoleon and Maria Louisa, by Kayez, Ball Room ; the CorO' LOMBARDY. Route 21. — Milan: Piazza de' Trihanalu 211 nation of the Emperor Ferdinand as King of the Lombardo- Venetian King- dom, also by llaijez. Tlie Great Ball Itoom is a splendid old-fasliioned apartment. Its principal featnre is a gallery supported by caryatides, executed by Calani, an artist from Parma. They are cleverly varied. Small Ball Rooniy an Egyptian Hall ; i. e. a hall supported by ranges of columns, like that at our London Mansion House ; it is lighted by 3000 candles, and contains one of Canova's busts of the first Napoleon. A room hung with tapestry from the designs of Raphael. There are several modern pictures, and a series of good frescoes by B. Luini, removed from some dese- crated churches. The Arcivescovado^ or Archbishop's Palace (between the Piazza Eontana and the cathedi^al), contains a very good collection of paintings, bequeathed to the see by Cardinal Monti, and in- creased by his successors. A few have been transferred to the Brera Gral- lery. The following are the best : — Giulio Campi : the Madonna, sup- ported by Angels ; originally a church- banner, or gonfalon. Ber^iardino Campi : St. John the Evangelist, with his symbol the Eagle. Leonardo da Vinci : a Sketch, — the Yii'gin contem- plating our Lord, who is holding a Lamb. Gaudenzio Ferrari : a Nati- vity, — many saints introduced. Titian : an Adoration of the Magi. Camillo Brocaccini: the Heads of the Twelve Apostles. Cerano : the Circumcision of our Lord. Sarzana : the naked Infant Saviour sleeping on the Cross. Bramantino : a Virgin and Child, — the Virgin dressed in blue, with a turban. Andrea del Sarto : a Mag- dalene holding the Vase of Ointment. Leonardo da Vinci : a Virgin and Child. Morazzone : the Murder of the Innocents. Balma Vecchio : the "Woman taken in Adultery; our Lord is pointing to the ■\;\Titing on the ground, the Pharisees looking on. Guido : St. Joseph holding and contemplating the Infant Saviour. Michael Angelo : a Battle-piece, with many naked figures. Titian : a Portrait of Pope Julius III. GiiiUo Cesare Brocaccini : St. Jerome, half naked, — an angel above is in the act of speaking to the saint ; the Mar- riage of St. Catherine. Bernardino Campi : a Design in chiar'-oscuro, re- presenting St. Sigismund of Cremona, and other Saints. After Raphael : the Adoration of the Shepherds, a piece of tapestry woven in gold and silk. Morazzone: the Angel wrestling with Jacob. Antonio Campi : our Lord's Agony in the Grarden, Andrea del Sarto : the Lord of the Vineyard pay- ing the Hire of his Labourers. Raphael: a Design, on paper, of several naked figures in the act of shooting at a mark. Jjeonardo da Vinci : two Designs, in chiar'-oscuro, of naked children. Ca- millo Brocaccini : the Raising of Laza- rus, and the Martyrdom of SS. Nazaro and Celso ; Designs in chiar'-oscuro, with many figiu^es. Mahuse : a Virgin and Child. Antonio Campi : the Cir- cumcision of oiar Lord. Albert Lurer : St. Jerome. Baris Bordone : two Holy Families, one including St. Am- brose, and another with St. Catherine. Bernardino Campi : our Lord bearing his Cross. Morazzone : a Holy Family. Bordenone : the Virgin and Child* Titian : a Holy Family, with St. Greorge in armour. The Balazzo Broletto^ in the Via del Broletto. Broletto was the name formerly given to the town-hall or palace of the municipality^ It first stood on the site of the Corte, after- wards in the Piazza de' Tribunali. The present building, which is exten- sive, with two courts and colonnades, is a specimen of the architecture of the revival previous to the time of Bramante. It was built by Filippo Maria Visconti for the celebrated Count Carmagnola. It now contains the ofliccs of the financial department of the province. The Biazza de" Trihunali, or de^ Mer- canti, near the Piazza del Duomo, is re- markable as containing some remains of mediaeval Milan. In the centre rises a large square building, standing I upon open arches, of which the upper 212 Pioute 21. — Milan : Piazza de Mercanti, Sect. III. portion serves as a depository for the Notarial archives of the city, wliilst the arched space below was used as a species of market. The latter has been handsomely restored and enclosed in glass, and serves as the general ren- dezvous of the mercantile community, and especially as a corn exchange. This building, now called the P. degli ArcMvif was the Palazzo delta Magione, where, in earlier times, the magistrates of the commonwealth of Milan assembled, and where the ducal courts of justice sat in after times. It was begun in 1228 by the Podesta Aliprandi, and completed 1233 by his successor, Old- rado Grosso di Tresseno, who is re- presented on the S. side mounted on his steed in full armour, very curious for the costume, but still more so per- liaps for the inscription, which recounts his good and doughty deeds in extir- pating heresy : — "Qui solium struxit, Catharos ut debuit uxit." The Cathari here mentioned were Manicha3an sectaries, whose name, cor- rupted into Gazzari, was transformed by tlie Germans into Ketzer. The last word should be ussit ; but the author of the inscription took the poetical licence of altering it into uxit, in order to rhyme. On the archivolt of the second arch, on the N. side, is a mys- terious figure, which belonged to a much older structure, and was thus preserved in the 13th century, out of respect for its then remote antiquity. It is no other than the once cele- brated lialf-fleeced or Jialf-fleecy sow, by whose augury Mediolanum was founded, and from which the city derives its name (In medio lanse). Belovesus the Gaul was guided to place his settlement, just as the sow and thirty young pigs settled the site of Alba. Claudian, in his Epithalamium upon the marriage of the Emperor Honorius with Maria the daughter of Stilicho, thus describes Yenus as repairing to Milan, where, as it would seem, the hide of the wooUy sow was still pre- served '.-^ *' Continuo sublime volans, ad moenia Gallis Condita, lanigerre Suis ostentantia pellem Pervenit." And Sidonius AppoUinaris, by the de- scription of " the city named after .the woolly sow," includes in one distich Ravenna and Milan : — '* Rura paludicolae temnis populosa Ravennae, Et quae lanigera de sue nomen habet." The Piazza cZe' Mercanti is sur- rounded by other buildings, possessing much liistorical interest, and not de- void of architectural beauty. Of these, the most curious in aspect is that on the S. side called the Loggia degli Osii, from the family who defrayed much of the expense of the structure, which was begun in 1316. From the balcony, or " ringhiera " (or, in the language of the people, jparlera)^ in front, the assent of the citizens was asked by the Podesta to the acts of government, and the sentences passed upon criminals were proclaimed, the shields on it are of the Visconti Sforzas. A row of others with armorial bearings on either side decorate the fagade, being those of the quarters of the city. The archi- tecture of the whole fagade is in an elegant Italian Gothic style, in black and white marble. Alongside the Loggia degli Osii is the ancient Scuola Palatina, now converted into an ofHce for mortgage- deeds, in front of it are statues of Ausonius and of St. Augustin J it formerly belonged to the doctors of civil law. On the oppo- site side of the Piazza from the Loggia degli Osii is the old Palazzo delta Citta^ or, as we should call it, the Town Hall. It was built by Pope Pius lY, about 1564. The interior has some tolerable paintings of the l7th century. The statue of St. Ambrose, standing before it, occupies the place of that of Philip II. of Spain, which was converted into a Brutus in 1797, and destroyed during the riots of 1813; The lower part of one of the wings has been recently fitted w^di^th-Q JBolsa or Exchange. It contains a monument to Cavour, with a good bust, raised by the merchants of Milan. The tower that rises on Pal. delta Citta^ LOMBARDY. Route 21. — Milan: The Br era ; Pinacoteca, 213 is of the 13 til cent., having been erected bj Napoleone della Torre. This part of the city is the heart of business. Opening out of it are the goldsmiths* street ; the Tla di Santa Margherifay the Paternoster Kow of Milan, full of booksellers' shops (Gruide- books, prints, and excellent maps, including those of the Austrian Ord- nance sui'vej, are to be had at Arta- ria's, Avlio has also estabhshments at Vienna and Mannlieim). GALLEEIES — MUSEUMS. Breea. Palazzo delle Scienze e delle Arti is the official name of the great establishment which, when it belonged to the Jesuits, was called the Collegio di St a. Maria in Br era, or, more shortly, Brera, by which name it is still generally known. It might be called St. Mary's in the Fields, for the old Lombard word Brera, or more properly Breda, is a corruption of JPrcedium. The estabhshment origin- ally belonged to the order of the Umi- liatij some of the principal mem- bers of which having conspired against the life of San Carlo Borromeo, it was suppressed. Their dissolute con- duct had already excited great scan- dal. The Jesuits were put in pos- session of the Brera in 1572, upon condition that they should establish both what we may term a high school and a college, a duty which they exe- cuted with their usual ability till they were expelled in their turn. The church was puUed down in 1810 to make room for the academy. The present buildings are very extensive, and now contain within their walls (besides a chapel) the apartments occu- pied by the " Reale Academia," the schools of various branches of the fine arts, apartments for the "Real Isti- tuto delle Scienze," a veiy extensive gallery of paintings, or Pinacoteca, the Library, a rich collection of medals and coins, many curious Chinese manu- scripts, a small botanic garden, &c. In the great court have been erected sta- tues of Verri the historian, of Caval- lieri the mathematician, of the Marquis Cagnola the celebrated architect, of G-rossi the historical novelist, and of Count Castiglione, an eminent Orien- talist ; on the stairs leading to the library, are busts of Oriani and others, and statues of Beccaria and Parini by Gr. Monti and Marchesi ; and in the corridor on the upper floor, which runs round three sides of the building, busts of Monti, Manzoni, Gen. Yaccani, and of several other Milanese celebri- ties. The paintings in tlie Lunettes by the modern artists, Valtonta, Calnedi, Venagri, and Curioni. The bronze statue by Canova of the First Napoleon, intended for the Arco della Pace, has been placed in the centre of the court. Out of the S.E. corner of the upper corridor opens The Pinacoteca, or gallery of pamt- ings, a collection whicli, though some- what deficient in particular schools, is nevertheless of great value. The pic- tures, however, gain nothing by their arrangement. There is no attempt at classification, and they are indifierently lighted. The names of the painters, with the numbers of the pictures, in large characters, are appended to each, which renders the purchase of the incomplete and unsatisfactory catalogue unneces- sary : a new one is in preparation. The gallery is open daily, from 9 to 3 in the winter, and until 4 in the summer months ; upon Sundays and holidays from 12 until 3. In the two entrance halls (h h) are a number of frescoes by difierent early Lombard masters ; some on the walls, which have been sawn from theh* places, and others which have been transferred to canvas. The most im- portant are those by the Luinis. Among thesefrescoes the following are most worthy of notice : — Qy Bernardino Luini, the Virgin and Child with St. John and the lamb, an injured but good fresco ; 1, three Girls playing apparently at the game of hot cockles ; 2, a Youth ridmg on a white horse; 4, a Child seated amongst vines and grapes, more pro- bably by Bramantino. — 5, Biduino : St. Sebastian; 7, the Virgin and St. 214 Eoute 21, — Milan: The Brera ; Painting s» Sect. III. Joseph proceeding to their marriage at the temple. — 8, JBramantino: the Virgin and Child and two Angels. — 9, jB, Luini : Two Minstrels, such as used to accompany wedding proces- sions, and probably intended as a por- tion of No. 7; 10, a Sacrifice to Pan; 11, the Metamorphosis of Daphne; 15, the Dream of St. Joseph. — 16, Atcr. Luini : a large fresco of the Mar- tyrdom of St. Andrew. — 17, Vincen- zio Fojopa: the Martyrdom of St. Sebastian; the earliest in date of the frescoes exliibited here. — 18, B, Luini : the Israehtes preparing to depart from Egypt ; 19, the Presentation of the Yu'gin in the Temple ; 20, an Angel ; 27, of his school also is a San Lazzaro. — 22 and 28, Bernardino Lanini : Mary Magdalene, and Sta. Marta. — 29, Sta. Marcella, school of Luini; and by JB. Luini again are — 30, the Birth of Adonis ; 31, an Angel ; 32, St. Anna and St. Joachim ; 33, the Na- tivity of the Yirgin ; 34, the Body of St. Catherine carried by three Angels to PLAN OF THE BKI^RA GALLERY. h — > >& Scale of Yct^-ds, XIH X — > a Entrance, fc & & Halls of the Frescoes, c Bust of King. I. to XIII. Halls of Paintings. XIV., XV. Rooms of EngTavings. the Sepulchre — a lovely work, repro- [ duced in chromo -lithography by our Arundel Society of London ; 35, 38, Two Cherubs ; 36, the Yirgin and Child, with Saints, and an Angel tuning a lute, below, painted in 1521. This very fine fresco bears his name, and the date 1521. 37, the Almighty, with outstretched arms, very fine ; 39, the Presentation of the Yirgin in the Temple; 40, the Prophet Habakkuk awakened by the Angel ; 41, the An- nunciation by the Angel to St. Anna ; 42, St. Anthony of Padua. — By Gau- denzio Ferrari are —43, the History of Joachim and Anna, in 3 connected but separate paintings ; 48, the Salutation; 49, the Dedication of the young Saviour in the Temple; 50, the Adoration of the Magi, in 3 compartments. — B. Luini, 51, Two Angels ; 56, the Trans- figuration; 57, St. Ursula; 61, the Redeemer ; 62, a Portrait of a Young Lady ; 64, B, Lanino : Three Cupids, with musical instruments ; 65, B. iMini: another Portrait of a Lady; LoMBARDY. Hoiite 21, — Milan: TlieBrera; Paintings'. 215 and, QQ^ an Angel flying, very beauti- ful. In the first room (i.) tlic pictiu'es most worthy of attention are : — 5, Farmi- gianino : the Virgin and Child, with St. Margaret, St. Jerome, St. Petronius, and an Angel, probably a copy. — 6, Titian: St. Jerome in the Desert. The saint is kneeling, with liis eves fixed on the cru- cifix, and grasps a stone, with which he appears m the act of striking his breast. The action of the saint, and the tone of the landscape, are fine.. — 10, Van- dyke : the Virgin and Child, with St. Anthony of Padua. — 11, Faris For- done : the Virgin and the Twelve Apostles. — 434, Cristoforo Caselli^ of Parma : a bishop incensing a lady kneeling before an altar ; a good speci- men of tliis little-known master of the 16th cent. — 16, G-uercino : St. Clara and St. Catherine. — 17, Rulens : the Institutio^i of the Lord's Supper. — 18, Domenichino : the Vhgin and Cliild enthroned, with St. John the Evan- gehst, St. Petronius, and many Cherubs. — 20, Gue7'cino : the Virgin, St. Joseph, and St. Theresa. — 21,Agostino Caracci: the Woman taken in Adulteiy, with many figm'es. — 22, Ludovico Caracci : the Woman of Canaan at om^ Lord's feet, with several Apostles. — 24, Guer- cino : the Almighty. — 26, Faris For- done : the Baptism of our Lord. — 27, Annibale Caracci : the AVoman of Samaria at the Well. — 32, Fro- caccini : the Magdalene, with an Angel. — 33, Troiti^ called II Malosso : the Entombment. — 35, Frocaccitii : St. Ceciha sinking from her wounds, but her eyes fixed on heaven, supported by two Angels. — 36, Daniel Crespi : Our Lord going to Mount Calvaiy. — 43, Daniel Cresjpi : the Martyrdom of St. Stephen — a picture crowded with figures. The second room (ii.). — 44, Foni- fazio : the Adoration of the Magi. — 45, Garofalo : a Dead Christ, with many figures. — 47, Tintoretto : another Pieta. — 48, Moroni : thic Assumption of the Virgin, — 49, 50, an Adoration of the Magi ; 49, and 51, Faul Veronese : St. Gfregory and St. Jerome, St. Ambrose and St. Augustin, with a glory of Angels around. — 53, Fassano : St. Roch visit- mg the Sufierers from Plague, tlie Vir- gin above. — 56, II Moretto : the Virgin and Child above, in glory ; below, St. Jerome, St. Francis, and St. An- thony the Hermit. — 58, Tim. delta Vite : the Virgin, St. John the Baptist, and St. Sebastian, an excellent picture. — 59, Fomanino : Virgin and Child, St. Francis, Saints, and Angels. — 60, Falma VeccJdo > the Adoration of the Magi, with St. Helen.— 61, Faul Vero- nese : probably by his school, the Mar- riage of Cana. — 62, Geronimo Savoldo : the Virgin and Child, with two Angels in glory; and below, St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Jerome, and St. Domi- nick. — 63, Catena : St. Stephen. — 65 and 66, Moretto : St. Clara and St. Catherine, and St. Jerome and an Apostle. — 57, Fonifazio : the Last Supper. — 68, Moretto: St. Antony of Padua. — 70, Tintoretto : the Holy Cross, with 4 Saints, and the Donatario ; St. Helen and St. Catherine are the chief figures ; St. Andrew and St. Dominick are amongst the others. — 71, Faul Vero- nese : (a Pope) St. Cornelius, St. An- thony the Abbot, St. Cyprian, a page and a cross-bearer. Thu^d room (ill.). — 73, Cristoforo Casein ; Vu'gin enthroned, with 4 saints, and pretty groups of children below. — 75, Gentile da Fahriano : the Virgin crowned by the Saviour, and many Angels ; figures about half the size of life — a cmious and good picture. — 77, Nicolb da Foligno : the Virgin and Child surrounded by Angels ; with his name, and the date"^ 1465. — 78, Carlo Crivelli : a pictiu"e divided by archi- tectural ornaments into 3 compart- ments ; in the 1st is the Virgin and Child ; on her rt. hand are St. Peter and St. Dominick, and on the 1. St. Peter Martyr and St. Geminianus. The name and date are on this curious picture. — 79, id., a Sainted Bishop and St. Jerome : all these works of Crivelli are first-rate specimens of the master. — 86, Fartolomeo Montagna : the Vir- gin and Child, witli St. Andrew, St. Monica, the Emp. Sigismund, St. Ur- 216 Route 21. ---Milan ,' The Brera ; Paintings, Sect. IIL sula, and three Angels below, playing on different instruments. A curious spe- cimen of this early and rather stiff master ; it is full of character in the actions and expressions of the saints. The date (1499) is on the base of the picture, with the name of Montagna. — 90, Gentile Bellini: St. Mark preaching at Alexandria in Egypt : a striking painting, remarkable for its size, as well as for the variety of figures and costume; in the back- ground a large edifice in the style of the Basilica of S. Mark at Venice, and before it camels ; a camelopard is introduced, which Bellini pro- bably saw and drew Avhen he was in the East. — 96, Cima da Conegliano: St. Peter Martyr, St. Nicholas, St. Angus tin, and an Angel tuning his lute. — 97, Giovanni Sanzio, father to Kaphael : the Annunciation, a remark- able pictm^e. It has much of that grace and delicacy which his son after- wards manifested so largely. — 98, JOuca Longhi : Madonna and Child, St. Paul and St. Anthony, the work of a rare master. — 109, Giacomo Franda: Virgin and Child above, with Saints below. — 103, Palmezzano : the Nati- vity, with Angels, very characteristic. — 105, Andrea Mantegna : an Ancona, divided by columns into 13 com- partments, St. Mark writing m the centre, and various Saints around. — 107, Corradini, called Frate Car- nevale : the Vu-gin and Child, with many surrounding figures, mostly por- traits, especially of Federigo da Mon- tefeltro, Duke of Urbino, in armour, kneeling, are introduced into this curious picture. — 112, JPaul Veronese : our Lord in the house of Simon the Pharisee, a fine picture, full of figures. — 113, Gio. Cariani, a rare master : Madonna and many Saints. — 115, Bart. Montagna : Virgin, with St. Anthony of Padua. — 116, Ben. Mon- tagna : Madonna and Saints. — 117, Martino da Udine : St. Ursula, sur- rounded by attendant Virgins, dated 1507. — 118, Garofalo : a large Cruci- fixion. — 121, Stefano di Ferrara : the Virgin enthroned, with Saints. — 124^ C. Crivelli : a Crucifixion. — 125, Giotto : the Virgin and Child, signed ; it formed the centre of an Ancona of 5 subjects, the other 4 being in the Pinacotheca 'at Bologna. — 127, JPal- mezzano : Virgin and four Saints, with name and date 1493. — 128, Carlo Crivelli : Virgin and Child, with exu- berant arabesque ornamentation. The fourth room (iv.). — Di Man- suetis : a curious painting of a Bap- tism, in which many Turkish figures are introduced ; the architectural de- tails interesting, signed. — 131, a joint production of Van Thielen and Poelem- hurg^ the first, whose name the picture bears, for the flowers, the second for the figures. — 140, Lorenzo Costa^ the Adoration of the Magi. — 144, Car- paccio : St. Stephen disputing with the Pharisees (1514). — Lorenzo Lotto: a Dead Christ. — 146, 178, Landscapes. — 159, Breughel : Birds ; and 162, a Landscape : Paul Brill. — 177, Sic- ciolante da Sermoneta: a Virgin and Child. — 188, Giov. Bellini: a Pieta, with the artist's name. — 194, Zucche- relli : the Preaching of St. John. Eifth room (v.) . — Falmizzano : a Coronation of the Virgin and two Saints. 167, Liberate da Verona : St. Sebastian, curious from the scarceness of the artist's works ; 176, Lanini : Madonna and Saints, with the Dona- torio. — 169, Moroni: the Virgin en- throned, with 2 Saints ; in distemper. The sixth room (yi.). — 184, Cesare da Sesto : a good picture of the Virgin with the Infant Saviour. — 185, Albani : the Dance of Cupids, or the Triumph of Love over Pluto : a most graceful and pleasing specimen : one of Alhan€s finest works, and in excellent condition. — 189, Cima da Conegliano : Pope Gregory the Grreat, with St. John Baptist and St. Paul.— 191 and 197, Fgt : Dead Game. — 192, Van Goyen : a Sea View. — 202, Annihale Caracci : the Portrait of the Artist and three other Heads.— 206, Garofalo: Ma- donna and Child, in a glory of Angels. — 208, Moroni : the Vu-gin and Child, St. Catherine, St. Erancis, and the Donor : figures half-length. — 209, Gio- LoMbardY. I{oiite2\, — Milan: The Br em ; Faintings. 217 vanni Bellini : tlie Virgin and Child ; signed and dated 1510 ; a good picture. Seventh room (vii.). — 241, Filippo Mazzuola : an excellent male portrait. — 210, Marco d' Ogionno : the Virgin and Child, St. Paul,* St. John the Bap- tist, and an Angel playing on a violin : a good specimen of this rare artist ; the heads are full of expression, especially that of the Virgin, which is beautiful and tender. Marco d'Ogionno was a pupil or imitator of Leonardo da Vinci, and he made two or three excellent copies of the Cenacolo. — 214, GtUER- CINO ; Abraham dismissing Hagar : perhaps the most praised amongst the pictures in the Brera. Ever since Lord Byron was so much struck by this pictm'e, numberless travellers have been struck too ; it has been beauti- fully engraved by Jesi. — 213, 217, Cima da Conegliano : two pretty small pic- tures of four Saints.— 230, Raphael : the " Sposalizio," or Marriage of the Virgin. This celebrated picture was originally at Citta di Castello. It is in the artist's early style, and bears much resemblance to that of Perugino in the architectural perspective, arrangement of the figures, and a certain degree of hardness in the outline ; yet the de- sign and action are very graceful, and it is a most interesting specimen of one of Raphael's early works, bearing his name, and the date, Raphael Uebinas, mdiiii., on the frieze of the circular temple in the background. Mary and Joseph stand opposite to each other in the centre; the high priest between them joins their hands ; Joseph is in the act of placing the ring on the finger of the bride : behind Mary is a group of the Virgins of the Temple ; near Joseph are the suitors, aU portraits, one of whom breaks his barren wand — that wliich Joseph holds in his hand has blossomed into a flower, which, according to the legend, was the sign that he was the chosen one. This lovely painting has been recently much improved by removing the old varnish ; many fine details, both of design and colouring, con- cealed by years of neglect, have been iV. Italt/—lS6d, brought out, some of which escaped Longhi in his celebrated engraving of it, especially the delicate landscape in the background, which may also have been a little over-restored. — 254, Velas- quez : Head of a Friar Sleeping. — 247, Luini: the Virgin and Child, a very fine picture. — 358, Andrea da Milano : the Holy Family ; the portrait of an aged man on the rt. is perhaps the donor of the pictm'e : the name, and date, 1495, are given. — 4^16, Leonardo da Vinci: the Head of our Lord, a design in black and red chalks, and believed to be a study for the head in the cele- brated Cenacolo : extremely beautiful. — 251, Rembrandt: a good Female portrait. — 234, Titian : head of an old man. The eighth room (viii.) — 231, Fran. Verla : Madonna on Throne, and Saints. — 235, Raphael : Sketch, in sepia, of an allegorical group of naked figures, on paper. At the bottom of this very clever design is written, as it is thought, by Raphael, the name of Michello Angelo Bonarota. This bistre drawing is the original sketch for the fresco formerly in the Casino Olgiati at the Villa Borghese, and now in the Bor- ghese Q-aUery at Rome. — 237, Guido : St. Peter and St. Paul. It was for- merly in the Zampieri GaUery of Bologna. — 240, And. del Sarto : A drawing, called " II Padre di Famiglia,'' the Man in the Grospel paying the "Workmen. — 242, Amhrogio Figino : a Man in Armour; a clever portrait, thought to be that of Marshal Foppa. — 243, A fine specimen of the early German school, in three compartments; the Adoration of the Magi in the middle, attributed to Senry Mitde Bles, called by the Italians la Civetta. — 244, Dosso Dossi : St. Sebastian. — 246 and 248, Canaletii : two Landscapes. — 226, Andrea Mantegna : a Dead Christ and the two Marys ; in distemper : sin- gular and forcible efiect of foreshorten- ing, and executed with great power. — 139, a picture attributed to Correggto on very doubtful grounds, the Virgm and Child, Mary Magdalene, and St, Lucia, in a Landscape. — 218, 222, 218 Route 21. — Milan : The Br era; Paintings, Sect. Ili. Vittore Carpaccio : the Marriage of the Virgin, and her Presentation in the Temple. — 229, Cima da Conegliano : 3 Saints. Ninth room (ix.). — 256, Simone da Pesaro : a Madonna and Saint present- ing Acorns. — 257, Bonifazio : the Pre- sentation of the Infant Moses to Pha- raoh's Daughter ; until of late years attributed to Griorgione. — 258, Sand- Tart : the G-ood Samaritan. — 259, Lui- ni : Noah drunk, and his Sons. — 269, a Portrait, said to be by Tintoretto. — 274, Guercino : La Sacra Sin done, or image of the Saviour's face on the handkerchief.— 278, Moretto : the As- sumption of the Virgin. — 249, Sasso- ferrato : the Virgin and the Infant sleeping ; above, a Grlory of Cherubim ; a poor picture. — 136, Vandyke : a good f portrait of a Lady. — 83, Cotignola : Virgin and Saints. Lor. Lotto : 3 por- traits. — 265, Titian : his own portrait ; and one of Tintoretto, attributed to the painter himself. The tenth room (x.) contains from 280 to 333. 280, Luca Giordano : the Virgin and Child, St. Anthony of Padua, St. Joseph, and many Angels and Che- rubim. — 284, Gaspar Potissin : St. John the Baptist in the Desert ; St. John is represented as a child of about ten years old. — 285, Deiner: the Portrait of an Artist, three quarters length ; a very theatrical picture. — 290, Baroccio : the Martyrdom of San Vitalis, with many figures.— 292, F. Zuccheri : The Descent of the Saviour into Hades, with his name, and the date 1585. — 293, Sneyders : a Stag-hunt. — 260, A. Turcld, or VOrhetto, a rare master. Virgin and Child, — 294, Bietro da Cortona: the Virgin and Child, St. Joseph, St. Catherine, St. John the Baptist, and St. G-aetano. — 296, Ti- herio Tinelli : Portrait of a Man. — 297, Daniele Crespi : half-length Portrait of a Sculptor. — 299, Bietro Suhleyras : the Crucifixion, with St. Mary Magdalene and two other figures, with the artist's name, and the date 1744. — 300, St. Jerome in the Desert, by the same artist. — 301, Brocaccini : a curious painting designed for a gon- falon or church banner, and painted on both sides. On that now ex- posed is the Virgin and Child, with St. Peter and Seven Angels : the other side also has the Virgin and Child with SS. Andrew and Charles. — 302, Bompeo Battoni : a Holy Family, with many Angels. — 308, Guido : the Head of a Philosopher.— 311 to 318 inclusive : all portraits, and considered those of the artists themselves. They are interesting, especially 316, the portrait of C. JF. Nuvolone ; and 317, Martin Knoller : Portrait of Mengs. — 321, Bonifazio : the Supper at Em- maus. — 322, Salvator Rosa : the Souls in Purgatory. — 325, Castiglione : the Departure of the Israelites for the Holy Land. — 326, Andrea Borta : the Por- trait of the Artist. — 327, Scarsellino: the Virgin and Child, with the Doc- tors of the Church and a glory of An- gels. — 331, Francesco del Cairo : a Portrait, believed to be that of Sca- ramuccia Perugino. — 332, Salvator Rosa: St. Paul the first Hermit. — D Crespi : Last Supper. The eleventh room (xi.) — 337, And* Salaino : the Virgin and Child, with St. Peter and St. Paul.— 338, Callisto da Lodi: the Vh^gin and Child, St. John the Baptist, St. Jerome, and an Angel. — 342, Marco d^ Ogionno : St. Michael conquering Lucifer, with two angels ; curious, in which the drawing of the figures and the tranquil unmoved expression of the countenances of the angels deserve attention. — 343, G-aij- DENZio FeeraHii the Martyrdom of St. Catherine, an admirable* work, perhaps the finest work in oils of this master ; the Saint, tranquil and resigned, looks up towards heaven awaiting her martyrdom, whilst the executioners at the wheel have their eyes fixed on their superior, waiting his commands to commence their cruel task. — 344, Bernardo Zenale ; the Vir- gin and Child, with the Fathers of the Church, SS. Gregory, Ambrose, Jerome, and Augustin. Some of the figures evidently portraits of the family for whom this very interestuag picture was painted; amongst others, Ludovico LoMBARDY. Route 21, — Milan: The Brera ; Paintings, 219 Sforza (il Moro), and his wife Beatrice Visconti, with their two children, are introduced. — 345, Bernardino Luini : the Virgin and Child, St. Philip, and others. The Saints are in the act of pre- senting a man and two women, kneeling to the Virgin. — 346, M. A. Caravaggio: the Samaritan Woman at the Well. — 350, Nicola Appiani : the Adoration of the Magi, raluable as one of the few works of this jare artist. — 353, B. Zdiini : an Annunciation. — 354, B. Crespi, called *' il Bustino :" the Pre- sentation in the Temple. — 355, JSnea Salnieggia^ called il Talpino, with his name and the date 1604 : the Virgin and Child, St. Eoch, St. Francis, and St. Sebastian. — 360, Cesare da Sesto : the Virgin and Child, with St. Joseph, St. Joachim, and the Infant St. John. — 361, Leonardo da Vinci : the Virgin and Child, with a Lamb, an unfinished work: beautiful, particularly the head of the Vii'gin, supposed to be a copy by G. Pietrino. — 364, Andrea Salaino: the Vii'gin and Child.— 366, Dan, Cres- pi : the Virgin and Child, with several Saints. — 369, Camillo Procaccini : the Nativity, with the Adoration of the Shepherds. The scene is illuminated by the light radiating from the Infant Saviour, as in the celebrated "Notte" of Correggio. — 370, Amhrogio Bar- gognone : the Assumption of the Vir- gin, with the Apostles, and SS. Am- brose and Augustine, G-ervasius and Protasius, surrounded by Angels and Cherubs ; in the upper part the Coro- nation of the Vii'gm, blessed by the Almighty Father. — 371, Giulio Cesare Procaccini: the Adoration of the Magi. — 375, Bemlacqua, or il Libe- rate da Verona : the Virgin and Child, with St. Peter Martyr, and another Saint, called by some King David, by others Job, and a devotee kneeling. The date 1502 is on the base of this picture, wliich is simple, and a curious specimen of the early style which pre- ceded Leonardo, in which there is much of dignity in the character of the figures. — 376, Carlo Francesco Ntivo- lone : a Family, beheved to be that of the artist, and considered one of his best works. — 377 and 379, C. F. Nuvolone, the Angel Gabriel in the act of giving, and the Vu'gin in that of receiving, the Annunciation. — 378, Amhrogio Borgognone : an Ecce Homo. — 384, Gio. Battista Crespi : the Madonna and Child, St. Dominick, St. Catherine of Sienna, and many Angels. The Virgin is in the act of giving the rosary to St. Do- minick, while the Infant Saviour places a crown of thorns on the head of St. Catherine. — 385, Gio. Battista Disce- poli^ called lo Zoppo di Lugano : the Adoration of the Magi. — 386, N. Ap- piani : the Baptism in the Jordan. — 388 and 390, Francesco Londonio: two good specimens of the Milanese Berghem. — 389, Francesco del Cairo: a Head; beheved to be that of the artist. — 391, Ercole Procaccini : Christ nailed on the Cross. — 397, N. Appiani: St. Anthony of Padua and a young Lady. A collection of Studies of Animals and groups of Peasants, by Francesco Londonio, a painter of the 18th century, celebrated for this class of works — ])resented to the gallery by his grand-nephew. The twelfth room (xii.) contains works of the Milanese school of the present century. The best are studies by Appiani, landscapes by Gaetano Tam- broni, but they olier very little interest. The pretty statue of the Leggitrice, or Reading Girl, by 3Iagni, so much ad- mired at the London Exhibition in 1862^ having been purchased by the govern- ment, has been placed here. Opening out of this 12th room, we enter a series of halls surrounding the outer portico, which contain casts of ancient and modern statues, the prize groups, and paintings, crowned by the Academy of Fine Arcs ; some cartoons by Appiani, Sanquirico, Bossi, and of Guido, Ag. Caracci,Donato Creti, and some modern paintings, amongst which Marino Faliero, by Hagez, and a landscape bg the late Massemo Azegleo, the cele- brated statesman, &c. A monument raised to Longhi, the celebrated en- graver, and another to Appiani, with his bust, and the tliree graces in relief,- I. 2 220 Eoute 21, — Milan: The Br era ; Sculptured, Sect. lit by Thorwaldsen. In the last room are Ogionno's copy of the Cenacolo, by Leonardo^ at Santa Maria delle Q-razzie, smaller than the original, and Bossies very indifferent one of it in oils. An apartment (xiii.) has been opened, called the Gralleria Oggionni, wliich contains a large collection of second-rate pictures, bequeathed by a person of that name, amongst which the best is a Coronation of the Virgin, with a Dead Christ in the lunette above, by C. Crivelli, painted in 1493 ; a good fresco of the Virgin and Child, with St. Ehzabeth, by B.Luini; and a small Madonna, by Garofalo. The Museo Archeologia is in two rooms on the ground-floor. Open to the public on Sundays from 10 to 3 : on week-days upon payment of 50 cents. It contains several ancient inscriptions and sculptures, amongst which (A) the tomh of Bernaho Visconti, surmounted by his equestrian statue, brought from the churcli of S. Griovanni in Conca. He is in full armour, and the figure is evidently a portrait of this prince, whose cruelty was such as to con- vey the idea that he was actuated by insanity. This is not the place to speak of the tortures and horrible deaths which he inflicted upon his subjects, but one passage will ex- emplify his ingenious tyranny. He kept upwards of 5000 hounds, which were quartered upon the richest citi- zens, who were bound to board and lodge them. Every two months a dog- inspection was held. If, in the opinion of the Canetero, a dog was too lean, the host was fined heavily for having neglected the canine inmate. If the dog was declared to be too fat, then the citizen was fined much more hea- vily for having over-fed the dog, and thus injured his health. But if the dog was dead, then the host was pu- nished by imprisonment and loss of all his property. Bernabo was dethroned by his nephew Grian G-aleazzo, in 1385. The interest of this monument is in- creased by its being the earliest mo- dern equestrian statue in Europe : on the four sides of the urn, which is that of Bernabo's wife, Begina deUa Scala, are rude bas-reliefs of the Passion, the Crucifixion, and of the 4 Evangelists — all these sculptures are attributed to Bonino da Campione, Many frag- ments of sculpture and architecture from ruined churches and monasteries ; Roman remains, including an altar with paintings upon it, said to have been found near San Lorenzo. (E) The recumbent statue of Gaston de Foix : a fragment of his magnificent monu- ment, the chef-d'oeuvre of the cele- brated Agostino Busti or Bambaja, erected by Louis XII. and Fran9ois I., when in possession of Milan, in the 16th centy. ; it formerly stood in the Ch. of Sta. Marta, attached to an Augustinian monastery. The monu- ment was considerably advanced in 1522, when, Francesco Sforza regain- ing liis dominions, the work was sus- pended; and the church being after- wards pulled down for the purpose of being rebuilt, it was broken up and the portions dispersed. Other fragments are to be met with in different collec- tions ; some in that of the Marchese Trivulzio, at Biblioteca Ambrosiana, and, with the drawing of it attributed to Leonardo da Vinci, in the South Kensington Museum. Other fine monu- ments by Bambaja are those of Lan- cinus Curtio, the poet, and of Bishop Bagaroto. The fine mediaeval doorway of Casa Medici, by Michelozzi^ curious for its sculptures, the bearings of the Sforzas, and the portraits of Francesco and his wife Bona Visconti, has been recently removed here from the Via dei Bossi, as well as the Roman inscrip- tions from Palazzo Archinto, and seve- ral Egyptian and Byzantine sculptures belonging to the Academy. The inner room contains a miscellaneous collec- tion of antique terra-cottas, mediaeval alfrescoes, some good specimens of Urbino majolicas, ivories, &c., and a colossal bust of the first Napoleon, wearing the Iron Crown. In other parts of this palace are the usual appurtenances of an academy : model-rooms, collections of casts, &c. The Library^ of which the main LOMBARDY. Eoiite 21. — Milan: Biblioteca Anibrosiana. 221 part belonged to the Jesuits, but to wliich great additions have been made, is very extensive and well selected ; better adapted for general study than the Ambrosian, as far as printed books are concerned. The collection of manuscripts is not ex- tensive, but curious. It contains a great number of Chronicles and other materials for Venetian history, which were brought here diu'ing the French occupation, and which have not been sent back to Venice. Amongst them is a copy of the celebrated "Libro d'Oro," which the repubhcans burnt in honour of liberty. Amongst the show volumes are the magnificently illuminated choir-books of the Certosa at Pavia. With this library of manu- scripts is connected a very valuable and select collection of coins and medals, con- sisting of more than 50,000 specimens. The Observatory, ov la SpecoladiBrera, was founded in 1762, under the direc- tion of the celebrated Jesuit astro- nomer Boscovich. When the building was planned, all the nuns in the city remonstrated against it, alleging that they would be constantly spied at by tlie astronomers when walking, as they were wont to do, upon the terraces of their convents. The Observatory is well provided with instruments, and the observations annually pubHshed by its late director Carlini are highly ap- preciated by the scientific world. In a room opening out of the great court, on the ground floor, are preserved several philosophical instruments — amongst tliem those for voltaic electricity — which belonged to the celebrated natu- ral philosopher Alesandro Volta ; also liis library, and several of his manu- script writings. The Botanical Garden, which is very indifferent ; not at all worthy of the institution to which it is annexed. Every year there is an " exposition" of native art in the Brer a, during the autumn. The Biblioteca Ambrosiana. — Tliis justly celebrated collection was founded by the Cardinal Frederick Borromeo 1609), Archbishop of Milan. The li- brary is under tlie direction of a con- gregation of ecclesiastics, presided over by a clerical member, or, if there be none, by the head, of the Borromeo family. The chief acting officer is the Prefetto. This dignity was held by the celebrated Cardinal Mai, who was pre- viously professor of Oriental languages, and who, by the discovery which he made of the 2'><^l^'''npsests in this collec- tion, laid the foundation of his liigh reputation. The Prefetto and the four assistant Hbrarians or Dottori are hono- rary canons of Sant' Ambrogio, The library is open daily from 10 to 3, ex- cept on Sundays and festivals. The librarians are very civil and attentive, but the catalogues, according to the desire of the founder, although good, are not communicated to the public : to this circumstance may be attributed how the library escaped the depreda- tions of the French in 1797, from the ignorance of its contents. It has been erroneously stated that the want of proper catalogues results from the will of the cardinal founder, and that there is a pa})al bull prohibiting the making of them : but the reason is to be sought in causes which ope- rate full as forcibly in other libraries. Cardinal Borromeo' s regulations were liberal in the truest and largest sense of the term. The Ambrosian was, m fact, the earliest pubHc library in Eu- rope ; that is to say, a library not at- tached to any college or cathedral for the use of its own members, but open to all students or to the pubHc, and for w^hom, what was then unexampled, writing materials were provided. The institution consists of two dis- tinct portions : the library, properly speaking, composed of the printed books and manuscripts, which is on the ground-floor, and the collections of works of art on the upper one. The Library, distributed over several halls, contains at present about 140,000 volumes of printed books, and 8000 manuscripts. Entering from the great court on the rt. a door leads into a small vestibule, in which are arranged busts of celebrated Itahans, with a fine 222 Boute 21, ----Milan ; Bihlioteca Amhrosiana, Sect. III. one of Lord Byron, by Thorwaldsen, the gift of the son of the once fashionable bootmaker of Milan, Ronchetti. On the floor is a coarse. Roman mosaic, found on the site of a Temple of Isis at Milan ; and on the walls 4 bas-re- liefs, by Thorwaldsen^ and fragments of sculpture by ^^mSq/a, which formed part of the monument of G-aston de Foix. In the two small halls open- ing out of the vestibule on the rt. are arranged the MSS. and printed books of the 15th century, some of the most remarkable MSS. being exhibited in glass cases, amongst which are worthy of notice : — a Virgil, annotated by Pe- trarch, and with one miniature by Simone Memmi representing A^irgil, and allegorical figures to his works and commentators, of great beauty. The handwriting is fine and clear. Prefixed to this manuscript is the note in which Petrarch is supposed to describe the death of Laura. The manuscript, which afterwards belonged to G-aleazzo Vis- conti, may be authentic, but the note is suspicious, and we may be tempted to doubt whether it deserves much more credit than the sonnet of Petrarch found in Laura's tomb at Avignon. — The autograph correspondence be- tween Cardinal Bembo and Lucre tia Borgia. A lock of her flaxen hair is attached to one of the letters. Josephus translated into Latin by Rufinus, who died in 410, upon papyrus, probably of the 5th centy. : manuscript books upon this material are of the greatest rarity. It is one of the first books bound in the modern form, and is sup- posed to have belonged to Attila. Homer: fragments of a manuscript, perhaps of the 4th centy., with fifty- eight illuminated miniatures, highly interesting both for the art and the cos- tume which they exhibit. " This MS., with the Virgil of the Vatican and the Book of Grenesis at Vienna, disputes the palm of being the most ancient volume containing illuminations that has come down to our days." Lucano da Parma's treatise * De Regimine Prin- cipum,' presented by G-aleazzo Sforza to G-. Antonio Borella, with a very i curious and characteristic portrait 9f the donor. Twelve volumes of heads of sermons, or homilies, by San Carlo ; and his correspondence, filhng upwards of 100 vols., all in his own handwriting ; also that of Cardinal F, Borromeo, not less interesting. A very large volume fiUed with drawings by Leonardo da Vinci: a most singular miscellany — machines, • ordnance diagrams, caricatures, fancies; the descriptions are written by himself from right to left, so that they can only be read with facility by being placed before a looking-glass. There were ori- ginally thirteen of these volumes, twelve of which were presented to the library in 1637 by G-aleazzo Arconati, after having refused 3000 doubloons ofiered for one volume of the collection by the King of England, as we are told by an inscription on the stairs ; but the other twelve have been retained in the library of the Institute at Paris, to which they were removed during the first French occupation of Lombardy. Some finely illustrated books of Hours, of the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries, amongst which that of Bian- ca Sforza is particularly beautiful. A small volume, executed at Rome, with architectural designs by Bra- mante, and some manuscript descrip- tions, and dedicated to Francis I. Vite degli Arcivescovi di Milano, with fine miniatures of the school of Luini. Livy, translated into Italian by Boccaccio. The collection of manuscripts on the shelves is of the highest importance, Many were purchased by the founder : amongst others those brought from the Benedictine monastery of Bobbio, a rehgious house founded by St. Co- lumbanus and Irish missionaries in the 7th century. From this ancient Coenobium have proceeded several ma- nuscripts of extreme value to the Celtic scholar, masmuch as they contain some of the earliest specimens of the GaeHc language in existence. They consist prin- cipally of interlineary translations and commentaries of portions of Scripture, LOMBARDY. Route 21. — Milan: Bihlioteca Amhrosiana, 223 in general beautifully written. Of these one of the most remarkable is a Psalter of the 8th centj., with the commentary of St. Jerome. This is filled with Gaehc glosses, besides a page at the be- ginning, probably containing a preface or dedicatory epistle. The whole is in the ancient Irish character, and very legible. A MS. of the G-ospels, with Gaehc notes, of high antiquity. A class of manuscripts which has rendered this institution celebrated are the palimpsests, which are ancient manuscripts written upon vellum, from which the characters of a previous ma- nuscript have been rubbed off, or par- tially effaced. The existence of this practice was long known ; but Cardinal Mai was the first who ever endea- voured to recover the classics below from the superincumbent strata of legends or homilies. The original writing is generally in bold, uncial cha- racters, imperfectly erased, and the scribes of the second period usually crossed the older writing, as ladies do their letters, though sometimes they took the intervals between the lines. Of course much patience is required ; but the principal difficulty lay in the transposition of the leaves, and it is in connecting the separated leaves that Mai has shown his great skill. Of the other manuscript treasures may be cited, fragments of a version of the Bible, made a.d. 360-80, by Ulfila Bishop of the Moesogoths. The gospels are at TJpsala; a portion of the epistles was found at Wolfen- butteU ; whilst from these pahmpsests Mai has extracted large fragments of the Acts of the Apostles, and portions of the Old Testament — a singular dispersion ; and perhaps many more of these SibyUine leaves may be hidden even in England. The letters of Fron- to and Marcus Aurelius, and various fragments of Orations, and of the Trea- tise de RepubUca of Cicero, were also pubhshed from palimpsests in this library. In one of these rooms are exhibited, on the plan so usefully adopted in the Library of the British Museum, a col- lection of autograph letters of cele- brated individuals, including some of Ariosto, Tasso, Galileo, Monti, Gioja, ending with those of Cavour, Gari- baldi, and Kossuth. The series of printed books of the 15th centy. is one of the most complete in Europe, amongst which is the cele- brated Bocaccio, printed at Venice in 1471, for a duplicate of which Lord Spencer paid 2000/., and which is now in the library at Althorp; the Ani- brosian Missal and Breviary, and the Statute de Milano, printed here in 1470 to 1480. Beyond the hall of the museum is the winter reading-room for students, opening out of which are two large halls containing printed books : in one is a monument to the Marquis Fag- nani, who bequeathed his library of 23,000 volumes and 4000 engravings to the Ambrosiana. Returning to the smaU vestibule, a door leads into the Great Hall of the Library, surrounded by portraits of illustrious men, chiefly ecclesiastical dignitaries, formed by Paolo Giovio, and employed to illustrate his ' Vitae Illustrium Virorum.' Out of this is another room of printed books, the Sala Borromeo, so called from a good monument, by Cacciatori, to the late Count Giberto Borromeo ; out of this opens the Sala delta Santa Corona, which contains a celebrated fresco by B. Luini, one of his finest works. This hall, which was formerly the place of meeting of the charitable corporation of La Santa Corona, whose object was to relieve the sick poor at their homes, and which ^vas suppressed during the revo- lutionary government in 1797, the room was then given to the Ambrosiana, and contains printed books. The fresco of Luini covers the wall of one of its sides, and represents the Saviour crowned with thorns, between two executioners ; on each side are groups of six members of the confraternity for whom it was painted, all evidently por- traits. In a group above, on the rt., be- tween a man in armour and a personage in d^ civil costume, is an old bearded 224 Bo ate 21.' — Milan: BiUioteca Amlrosiana, Sect. III. personage, the painter himself. The j fresco is in admirable preservation, as well as the roof of the sala, which is of the period of the painting, as stated on it, Oct. 1521 to March 1522.. On the \ walls, amongst other curiosities, the gloves worn by xsTapoleon at Waterloo, and the tailor's models for his clothes. Annexed to the library is a small numismatic collection, rich in coins, from the time of Valentinian to Char- lemagne, of the Lombard dukes and sovereigns, to the period of the Sforzas (1450). Ascending to the first floor we reach the collection of works of art. First, and before reaching the Gallery, is the Cahinetto dei Bronzi^ formed by E. J. Pescis, modern, and from the manu- factories of Manfredini, Starza, and Tomasi. In this room are also several good works of art, a portrait of B. ! Cellini, by Bronzino ; the Triumph of G-alatea, by Albani ; a portrait of Pope Clement XII. by Migutla ; the Con- version of St. Paul, by Giulio Clovio ; a Holy Family, by L. Lotta ; a portrait of Clement XIIL, by Mengs ; a Holy Family, by Carlo Dolci ; the Toilet of Venus, by Gnercino; portraits in minia- ture of Bernabo Visconti and Ludo- vico il Moro, by Cigola ; and some sculptures by Canova, Tkorwaldsen, and Monti. A few steps higher up is the Gallery. Moom 1, containing an extensive series of engravings. Room 2 : ancient engravings by Luca CranacJi, Antonio JRaimondi, Sali\ liosa, Calcot, &c. ; and a copy of L. da Vinci's Last Supper, by Vespino. Room 3 : ancient minia- tures from mediseval books of prayer, and several pictures, amongst which a Deposition and Crucifixion, by Pro- caccini ; a Presentation in the Temple, by Tiepolo ; Martyrdom of St. Peter, by II Moretto ; Virgin and Saints, by Rorgognone ; copy of Correggio's As- sumption, by An. Caracci ; Virgin and Child, by Hemeling ; St. J ohn, by Luini ; Head of an Old Man, attributed to M. Angelo. In the presses are several miniatures by MigUara^ and sundry objects of ouriosity. Hall of the School of Athens. — First of all is the celebrated cartoon by Raphael for the fresco in the stanze at the Vatican : it is executed with black chalk on grey paper, and con- tains the figures only, without the architecture. "It is one of the most interesting examples of the nature and extent of the alterations introduced in " a composition prepared for fresco. The changes are mostly additions. The figure of Epictetus, represented in the fresco, sitting in the foreground on the left, leaning his head on his hand, is wanting in the cartoon. This figure was added to fill up a vacant space, and thus the change, though a consi- derable improvement, involved no in- convenience. Some less important alterations in the same fresco, such as covering the head of Aspasia with dra- pery instead of showing her flowing tresses (for thus she appears in the cartoon), might have been made on the Avail without any change in the drawing. That this cartoon was the identical one which served for the execution of the fresco is proved by the exact conformity of every part, except the additions above mentioned, with the painting." — JEastlake. In other parts of this room are several good paintings : — Piazza da Lodi^ 143, the Virgin adoring the Infant Saviour ; Leonardo da Vinci, 152, 153, Portrait of Ludovico il Moro and his wife Bea- trice d'Este ; Guido, 166, a fine Cruci- fixion; Titian, 169, the portrait of Gian Giacomo Trivulzi ; 170, the Adoration of the Shepherds, painted for a Cardinal d'Este, as a present to Francis I of France, but purchased by S. Carlo, by Avhom it was given to his nephew. Card. Federigo Borromeo ; 171, the Deposition by Joseph of Ari- mathea ; 175, portrait of the Doge Ci- cogna of Venice. In addition to the paintings, the collection of original drawings here is most important— nearly 150 by Leonardo da Vinci, amongst which one, No. 177, a portrait of his pupil Francesco Melzi, and nu- merous remarkable caricatures. In a room next the Hall qf the School LOMBARDY. Eoute 21. — Milan: Natural History Museum. 225 of Athens is a smaller one, in the centre of which is a model, in gilt bronze, of the Porta Orientale, as projected by Cagnola : the walls are covered with original drawings. The Profile of Leo- nardo da Vinci, by himself, in red chalks. — Two drawings by Caravaggio, our Saviour appearing to Mary Mag- dalene : and some fine studies by J5. Luini and Cesar e da Sesto. — Rajphael, two Men on Horseback, an early work, 1505. — Many studies, by Michael An- gelo, for his Last Judgment. Two ex- quisite portraits in red chalk, by L. da Tlnci. Also by him, three portraits: the profile of Beatrice d'Este, who died in childbirth at 27, and whose monument is in the Certosa of Pavia. Head of St. John : a drawing of part of the Triumph of JuHus Ceesar, by Man- tegna. The Annunciation, attributed to Parmigianino. Sandro Botticelli : Madonna, Child, and Angels ; JB. Luini: Holy Family; a masterpiece, and the design for which is attri- buted to L. da Vinci. L. da Vinci : beautiful Portrait of a Physician, half figure. Here are also drawings by Giulio Romano, Caravaggio, Michael Angelo, Alb. Durer, Mantegna, Giier- cino, Ltica Cambiaso, the two Luinis, Raphael, Leon, da Vinci, &c. &c. ; and a portion of RaphaeVs cartoon for the painting of the battle between Constan- tine and Maxentius, in the Stanze at the Vatican. Room 6. — In this room, opening out of the Great Gallery, are several paint- ings by Breughel and Paul Brill, and a good portrait of a nobleman, by II Mo- rone : leading to the last hall of the Pinacothcca. Room 7, Sala Bolognini. Here have been placed several paintings be- queathed to the municipality of Milan by Count Bolognini. The most remark- able is a full-length portrait of Henrietta Maria of England, attributed to Vayi- dgJce ; a Virgin and Infant Christ, by Guercino; Animalsby Londonio ; several objects of mediaeval furniture, bronzes, ivories, Urbino majolicas, and terra- cottas. Attached to_ the Ambrosian Library is a printing-oflice, of works in the Oriental languages, founded by Card. Borromeo, and under the direction of Signor Ceriani, one of the dottori, or under librarians. On tlie stau's and in the court of the Ambrosiana are some Roman and Christian inscriptions from the Cata- combs ; and in a small garden towards the piazza the tin palm-tree, or aloe, which Lalande, in his description of Italy, has mentioned as a proof of the mildness of the climate of Milan. Among the scientific establishments at Milan, the most remarkable is the Museo Civico di Storia Naturale, in a large palace on the Giardino Pub- lico (open from 11 to 3 daily, entrance J fr., except on Sunday and Thursday, when it is free to the public), which contains a very good and remarkably wall-arranged collection of Zoology (that of the serpents, and of reptiles in general, is one of the most im- portant in Europe), Mineralogy, Geo- logy, and Paleontology : the latter is particularly rich in fossils from the tertiary Subapennine formations of the duchies of Parma and Piacenza. The museum is liberally endowed and supported by the municipality, which deserves the greatest credit for the encouragement it has given to the teaching of science, and of natural his- tory in particular. The extensive col- lections of the suppressed Scuola delle Miniere, consisting of fossil remains of gigantic animals, found S. of Parma and Piacenza, and purchased by the Viceroy E. Beauharnois, and of the fossil tertiary shells described by Brocchi in his classical Conchiologia Fossils Suhapennina, have been re- cently removed to the Museo Civico, The Great Hall of the palace, converted into a lecture -room, has its walls covered with frescoes by Tiepolo. There is also an Ethnographical collection — the Phrenological one having been presented by Cav. Topati ; and one of Comparative Anatomy. The pre- historic remains of the Lake-deposits of the Lombard plains, near Varese, are remarkable, as well as the series of Egyptian and Peruvian crania ; the whole under tlis chrection of Professor 226 Route 21, — Milan : Great Hospital. Sect. III. Cornalia, an eminent naturalist, well known for his researches of the malady of the silk-worm. The Museo Civico of Milan is amongst the best kept up and well-arranged of the Natural His- tory Collections in Italy. Osjpedale Maggiore^ or Grreat Hos- pital of Milan. — This splendid esta- blishment was founded by Francesco Sforza, and his duchess Eianca Maria, in 1456. They gave for its site an ancient palace which had belonged to Bernabo Yisconti. The funds for its maintenance were partly supplied by the duke and his consort, and partly by the union of the endowments of several other hospitals previously exist- ing in the city. To these have been added from time to time, and still continue to be added, legacies and do- nations of the Milanese, who have a great affection for the institution, which has had an unusual exemption from spoliation in every political vicis- situde. The building was begun on the 4th of April, 1457, the first stone being laid by the hands of the duke and duchess. Antonio Filarete, a Florentine, was the architect ; the southern portion of the edifice was alone executed from his designs. The ground-plan of this original portion of the foundation is a square, the central space being the grand quadrangle. The windows of the facade are beau- tifully ornamented with reliefs of children and foliage in moulded terra- cotta ; and the numerous niches and lunettes contain busts of Saints and allegorical figures. The central portion of the hospital is also of moulded brick, but was erected at a later period, in 1621, by a donation from a liberal citizen, Grian Pietro Carcano. The architects were Fabio Mangone and F. Richini. On entering by the Great G-ate- way, a very noble quadrangle pre- sents itself: it is surrounded by a double colonnade, having 21 arches on two sides, and 19 on the others : the columns of the upper order are compo- site, of the lower modern Ionic, with archivolts and entablatures ornamented with arabesques and figures in high re- lief, forming circular medaUions, from the designs of Camillo Procaccini. The upper colonnade has been partly walled in to gain space ; on three sides, that towards the street is open, as originally designed; the lower is formed by 80 columns of red granite. This quad- rangle measures 250 ft. by 280, not including the depth of colonnade, which is 19 ft. In the small church oppo- site the entrance is a good Annunci- ation, by Guercino. In 1797 Giuseppe Macchi, a notary who had led the hfe of a miser, left an immense property to the hospital, by means of which it was completed. The N. wing is from the design of Castelli, who, unfortunately, abandoned the style of the earlier part of the building, so that this wing is out of keeping with the rest. The average number of patients admitted annually is about 20,500 ; the deaths, 2700 J the mean mortality being 13 per cent. The hospital can accommodate 2400 patients, but has seldom more than 1600. Monuments have been raised under the porticoes of the great quadrangle to Rasori, LocatelU, and other eminent medical teachers who were attached to the establishment. The Os'pizio Trivulzi is a noble mo- nument of Milanese charity. It was founded in 1771 by Antonio Trivulzio, who gave up his palace for the purpose. The endowment has since received very considerable additions, and the building has been recently enlarged to nearly double its original size. It now contains 600 inmates, all above seventy years of age, who are well fed and clothed at the expense of the institution. Milan contains as many as 85 hos- pitals and institutions of charity, pos- sessing property to the amount of 200 millions of francs — 8 millions sterhng. The vast Lazaretto^ just outside the Porta Orientale, is interesting both from its magnitude and from the recol- lection of the scenes which have been witnessed within its waUs. It con- sists of a quadrangle of red brick ; measuring, outside the arcade, 404J yds. by 393. From these arcades sur- rounding the quadrangle opened 280 LOMBARDY. JRoute 21. — Milan: Squares; Palaces, 227 small rooms or cells ; in the centre is a chapel designed by Pellegrini^ and possessing much beauty. This building was founded by Lodovico il Moro about ]4t>l, when governing in tlie name of his nephew Gian Galeazzo, but not completed till the end of the 15th cen- tury. It was the scene of some of the finest episodes of the Promessi Sposi. The quadrangle is now cut through by the line of rly. SQUARES. Milan has few squares. One of the finest is the Piazza del Duomo^ lately enlarged and beautified by pulhng down the unseemly arcades and shops which occupied its N.E. side : from here a magnificent gallery, in a very handsome Renaissance style, the Gal- lerie Vittorio Emanuele^ occupied by some of the smartest shops in Milan, ]ias been carried to the Piazza della Scala. This gallery, now a favourite promenade, was raised from the designs of a young architect, Mangoni, and is covered with glass, having a handsome octagon in the centre. The walls are ornamented with frescoes ; it is 640 ft, long ; the cupola of the octagon is 465 ft. high. The Piazza della Fon- tana, is in front of the archbishop's palace. In it is one of the few foun- tains in Milan. The Piazza Borromeo has a statue of San Carlo, by Bussola, formerly in the Cardusio ; it stands in front of the small ch. of Santa Maria Podone, belonging to the Borromeos, whose palaces form two sides of the piazza. The Piazza del Marino, with the handsome palace of that name on one side (now del Municipio), and the newly opened Piazza della Scala, opposite the theatre, with the Palazzo Brambilla, a remarkable specimen of modem decoration in terra-cotta and moulded brick - work. The Piazza Cavour, between the Porta Nuova and the Giardino PubUco, has a bronze statue of the great minister, by Tahacchi, a Milanese sculptor, raised by public subscription. There were formerly many crosses and similar monuments in the streets and crossways, but most of them have been removed. Of those that remain, the " Leone di Porta Orientale^^ a small column in that street, is the px'incipal. It is said to commemorate some victory gained by the Milanese over the Venetians; but the lion is not the lion of St. Mark. Palazzo Andreani, now Sormani. — The garden is one of the largest in Milan. In the collection in this man- sion is a pleasing Mantegna, — the Virgin and Child between St. John and St. Mary Magdalene ; and a Midas, probably by the same artist. Pal. Belgigioso, from the design of Piermarini, is elegant. On the same Piazza, in the house with a terra-cotta front, resides the celebrated writer Manzoni. Palazzo Borromeo. — The exterior is one of tlie few remaining specimens of the Gotliic style, having belonged to the family since 144^4 : the interior is modernised, and contains a fine col- lection of minerals, formed originally by Breislack, and a valuable series of paintings by B. Luini. On the banish- ment of this noble family, arising out of the events of 1848, the palace had been seized upon and converted into a barrack by the Austrian authorities. Pal. Busea Serhelloni, in the Corso Venezia, from the designs of Cantoni, the front in Baveno granite ; there are several frescoes in the interior by Tra- ballesi, Podesta, > Sabatelli, &c. Palazzo lAtta. — This was built by PicJdniy and is one of the largest in Milan. The great saloon is splendidly fitted up in the style of Louis XIV. The fine frescoes by Luini, the marbles and paintings, as weU as the extensive and valuable library, formerly here, have been sold and dispersed. Palazzo Marino, forming the S. side of the Piazza della Scala, now the resi- dence of the municipal body, is a fine edifice, from the designs of Galeazzo Alessi ; it was built at the expense of 228 Route 21,' — Milan: Palaces; Theatres, Sect. III. Tomasso Marino, but has long be- longed to the government, being used for public offices, until the municipality recently removed into it. Casa Meizi. — A large library, and some good modern pictures. There is another Casa Melzi in the Borgo Nuovo, originally the house of the painter Bramantino^ who has left some frescoes in what is now a coach- house ; and in the court is a good fresco of an Atlas supporting a Globe, by B. Luini, in his last and best manner. Fal. Poldi FezzoU^ in the Via del Giardino, contains several good works of art, modern and ancient, not seen with facility. Casa Pianca contains a very precious series of portraits of the Sforza family in fresco by Luini^ all apparently taken from originals. Casa Pontic 10, Yia dei Bigli, a portion of the Casa Taverna, has an open court painted throughout by P. Lui7ii ; between the windows are full-length figures of the Muses ; below each window is a circular medal- lion with a Cupid ; and in the oblong panels between, groups of children in mimic combat, the treatment of which is very graceful and spirited. Palazzo Pozzi. — This palace was de- signed and built by Leone Leoni, of Arezzo, a capital medallist or die-sinker. Leone was a sculptor and an architect, and mvich patronised by Charles V., by whom he was knighted. Hence he is often called "II Cavaliere Aretino." He became very opulent ; and this building is a monument of the riches he had acquired, as well as of his genius. It is, however, rather odd than elegant : colossal statues support the front, to which the Milanese have given the name of Omenoni (i. e. big men), and to account for which there are many strange stories. Palazzo Trivulzi. — Built by the Mar- quis Alessandro Trivulzi. Here is a very select and valuable library of printed books and manuscripts, and a choice collection of coins, and of Greek, Roman, and mediaeval antiquities, in- cluding the monument of Azzo Vis- conti, formerly in the Church of San Gottardo at Milan. Thei-e are also some good pictures. Casa Vismara^ in the Yia de' Bossi, only remarkable for its handsome portal from the designs of Michelozzi. This house, which was given to Cosimo de' Medici in 1456 by Francesco Sforza is supposed to have been the seat of a branch bank of that celebrated Florentine family in the 15th century. The fine doorway by Michelozzi^ for- merly here, lately purchased by the municipality, has been removed to the Mediaeval Museum in the Brera (P-221). In the neighbouring Via dei Filodra- matici (No. 1810), forming the entrance to a small theatre, is a good pointed gate in marble, having over it a relief bust of Francesco Sforza, with those of Alexander the Great and Julius Caesar. The arabesques are fine, especially on the jambs of the gateway, where the triple feather, one of the heraldic cog- nizances of the Medicis, hke that of our Prince of Wales, may be seen. Theatres. — Milan is of all the cities in Italy the most celebrated for its the- atres and theatrical amusements ; the principal house is La Scala, so called from its having been erected upon the site of the Church of St. Maria della Scala. It was built from the designs of Piermarini, and was opened in the autumn of 1779. It contends with S. Carlo at Naples for being the largest theatre in Italy, and has always been admired for the excellence of its internal arrangements. The house is capable of containing 3600 spectators. The number of boxes in each row is 41 : each has a small room attached to it ; the greater number are private property. The form of the house is a semicircle, with the ends produced and made to approach each other ; the greatest width is 72 ft., the length, including the proscenium, that is to say, from the front of the centre box to the curtain, is 95^ ft. The width of the opening between the columns of the proscenium is 54 ft., and the depth of the stage behind the curtain LOMBARDY. Route 21. — Milan : Theatres, 229 is 150 ft. This theatre also contahis a Sala di Ridotto, whore concerts are given, and masked balls during the Carnival. The other Royal Theatre is La Cano- hiana, connected by a species of via- duct with the palace. It was built from the designs of Fiermarini, and opened iu 1780. The pit contains 450 seats, and the house will hold 2200 spectators. These two Royal Theatres are under the management of the municipality, as well as the Academy of Dancing. The theatrical year is divided into three seasons ; the Carnival, which extends from St. Stephen's day to the 20th of March ; the spring, from Easter to the end of June; the autumn, from the beginning of September till the end of November. Teatro Carcano. — This Theatre was built in 1803, from the designs of Canonica^ on the site of the Monastery of S. Lazzaro. Every part of the in- terior is constructed of wood ; it is in the form of a horseshoe, with a convex ceiling, and it is considered very favour- able for hearing. The pit contains 300 seats, and the house can hold 1800 spectators. Operas and comedies are performed here. Teatro Re, near the Piazza del Duomo, was built in the year 1812, by Carlo Re, from the designs of Canonica. It stands on the site where the Archpriest Dateo, in 787, erected the church of San Salva- tore, and the first foundhng hospital that ever existed. The comedies of Gol- den i, Nota, &c., are often well repre- sented here. The pit holds 120, and the whole house is capable of containing 1000 spectators. This theatre will soon be pulled down. Teatro Filodramatico. — Antolini, in the theatre which he designed for the Foro Bonaparte, declared his in- tention to banish everything by which the attention is distracted, and that he would not therefore have boxes as a retreat for noisy chattering. He said the audience would behave and attend better if every one was seen, and that pretty women would not have to com- plain of being shut up in cages where they were half hidden. These classical opinions, which were called republican, prevailed when the Teatro dei Filo- drammatici was built from the designs of Polacic and Cano7iica, on the site of S. Damiano alia Scala, and it hence re- ceived the appellation of "patrioti(;o." The pit contains 245, the open boxes 630 persons. The tickets of admission are distributed gratuitously by the members, who form a regular aca- demical body, have a school of de- clamation, and give prizes. The com- pany is entirely composed of amateurs, young men engaged in trade or in the public offices, and young women be- longing to respectable families of the city. Actors who have appeared in public are not allowed to play on this stage. Vincenzo Monti, Carlo Porta, and other distinguished authors and actors, appeared here, and in it Pasta commenced her career. Teatro Fiando, Fantoccini, Mario- netti or Puppets. — This theatre, recently rebuilt in the Piazza Beccaria, was originally built by one Fiando, from the design of Cano7iica, in the Oratorio or Chapel of Bel armine. It is called also the Teatro Girolamo, from the comic character who always appears as one of the principal personages in every drama represented here. Girolamo is a Piedmontese from the Duchy of Montferrat, always frightened and hungry, but jesting and babbling. The performances are exceedingly droll and amusing, consisting usually of a play, which is apt to be very pathetic, and a ballet. But strangers will not hear there the language and humour of the people, as in the San Carlmo at Naples. The Giardino Publico is a handsome public promenade near the Porta Nuo- va, from which it is entered by the Piazza Cavour, in which a monument to that great statesman has been placed by public subscription. The orna- mental grounds have been recently enlarged, and very handsomely laid out, with water-courses, and a hand- some circular building erected in the centre for a cafe-restaurant. The 230 Route 22, — Milan to Varese. Sect. IIL large Guiliani palace on the W. side has been fitted up to receive the Museo Civico of Natui'al History. Amongst the places of amusement are diJBPerent club-houses : the Casino delV Unione^ in a fine apartment over the Cafe Cova, near the Theatre of La Scala (the most aristocratic), the Casino dei Negozianti^ called also Societa del Giardino^ in the Via di San Paolo, the Societa Fatriotica, in the Via di San Guiseppe, and the Societa degli Artisti^ all contain readmg-rooms, baU-rooms, coffee-rooms, and the like. The Galleria de Cristoferis, a species of Burlington Arcade, forming a pas- sage between the Corso Vittorio Em- manuele and the Via del Monte, con- tains some good shops, coffee-houses, &c. &c. Besides the above objects, the tra- veller will do well to visit the JS^ew Cemeterg, or Campo Santo^ out- side the Porta Graribaldi, from the designs of Macchiachini. The architec- ture in the Lombard style. The Public Baths, outside the Porta Venezia, under the name of Bagno di Diana \ open daily; entrance, 1 fr.. including linen, &c. A swimming bath reserved for ladies on Wed. and Sat. Scuolo or Collegio Tecnico, in the Corso della Porta Eomana, a very handsome edifice, the object being, as a school of application for engineers, &c., to complete the education in the ap- plied sciences of young men leaving the university. It is a new building, due to the liberality of the Municipahty. Flan for visiting the Sights of Milan in 3 days. \st day. — DuoMO ; Boyal Palace ; Archbishop's Pal. ; Ch. of San Fedele and Piazza Marino ; Piazza della Scala; Brera Gallery, Library, and other Collections; Ch. of S. Marco; Ch. of S. Simpliciano; Arena; Arco della Pace ; Castello ; Cemetery or Campo Santo. 2nd day. — Ch. of San Carlo ; Gal- leria Yittoria Emmanuele : Piazza dei Tribunali; Chs. of Maurizio Mag- giore, of San Tomaso ; Palazzo Litta ; Chs. of Sta. Maria delle Grazie, of S. Vittore, of S. Ambrogio ; Piazza Bor- romeo ; Ambrosian Library ; Chs. of S. Giorgio, S. Satiro, S. Giovanni in Conca; Pal. Trivulzi; Ch. of S. Ales- sandro. ^rd day. — Chs. of S. Lorenzo and S. Eustorgio; Porta Ticinese; Chs. of La Madonna di S. Celso, SS. Celso and Nazzaro, S. Paolo, and S. Eufemia; Great Hospital; Chs. of S. Stefano, S. Bernardino, S. Pedro in Gessate, Sta. Maria della Passione; Giardino Pub- blico ; Museo Civico, Piazza Cavour ; Corso di Yittorio Emanuele, and Boule- vard; Lazzaretto. In the neighbourhood of Milan, be- sides the places described upon the different routes, the following may be noticed : — About 3-^ m. from the Porta di Magenta, and on the 1. of the high road leading to Yercelli, near a village called Quarto Cagnino, is lAnterno, memorable as the solitude to which Petrarch retired after the death of Laura, and where he composed his poetical lamentations for her loss. Its original name was Inferno y or In- verno ; but the laureate, out of love for Cicero, changed it into the classical Linternum, the retreat of Scipio. No one should neglect to visit the Certosa of Pavia (Rte. 23) who can possibly manage it. ROUTE 22. MILAN TO VAEESE, BY SAEONNO AND THE CAERIAGE EOAD. About 34 m. Diligence runs by this route daily, performing the dis- tance in 4 hours ; persons may leave by it in the morning, visit Saronno, and return from Yarese at 3^ p.m.; there is also a diligence to Saronno only, leaving Milan at 2^ P.M., and re- turnmg every morning; but the tra- LOMBARDY. Eoute 22. — Saronno. 231 veller whose object is to visit Varese only will find it more convenient to take the rly. train, by which it is reached in 2, hrs. (passing through Gallaraie, 41 kil. (Rte. 17) ; Alhizzate, 49 kil. ; Gazzada, 56 kil. ; Yarese, 60 kil., or 37 English miles, (See Rte. 18). It is proposed to carry this rly. to Yarese, Laveno, Luino, and Lugano. The I'oad to Saronno leaves Milan by the Porta TanagHa, passing tlirough the Suburb of the Ortolani. A road which turns off to the rt., at a short distance from the gate, leads to the Palazzo della Slmonetta^ noted for its echo. The front presents three colonnades, one over another, with arches and small columns, and paint- ings in the cinquecento style. The interior is not remarkable. The facade towards the garden was constructed with a very intricate arrangement of angles, and from a window on the second floor, on the 1. hand, is an echo which is said formerly to have repeated the soimd of the discharge of a pistol 50 times. An alteration in the building has diminished its powers, but the echo will still repeat a clear sharp sound nearly 30 times. 3^ m. from the Porta Tanagha, and about ^ m. on the 1. of the road, is the village of Garegnano, near which is the Certosa of Garegnano, a once cele- brated Carthusian monastery, in the midst of a territory which the labours of the monks reclaimed. It was founded by the Archbishop Oddone Yisconti, Lord of Milan. The conventual buildings are desecrated ; the church contains some frescoes by Crespi. Those on the waUs represent the principal events of the life of St. Bruno, those on the ceiling subjects from the New Testament. Some have been much injured by the wet penetrating when the lead was stripped off the roof in 1796. Caronno. — In the parish church are some frescoes, attributed to Aurelio Luini, the son of Bernardino, Saronno, about 15 m. from Milan : on the rt.-hand side of the road is the church of the Santuario della. Ma- donna di Saronno. It is close to tho posthouse, and on the opposite side of the road is an inn, where beds and a fair dinner may be had. The town of Saronno itself lies ^ m. distant to the east. Tliis church contains celebrated works in fresco, by Gaudenzio Fer^ rari and Bernardino Luini, in excel- lent preservation. It was commenced in 1498, from the designs of Vincenzo delV Orto. The campanile, the cupola, the high altar, and the two side chapels, were erected by Paolo Porta, in the 16th century. The facade, which is overloaded with ornament, was built in 1666, from the design of Carlo Buzzi. Owing to this change of architects the interior is somewhat irregular. The cupola is painted in fresco, by Gau- denzio Ferrari, The subject is the heavenly host playing upon various instruments, with a circle of cherubs above them singing. Below is a series of painted statues, in 12 niches, two figures in each, consisting, for the most part, of Prophets and Sibyls, as Sibylla Delphica and David, &c. ; 24 in all ; there are also groups representing fche Calvary, the Last Supper, &c. Below, in circles in the pendentives, are eight subjects from Genesis, — the Creation of Eve ; Eating the Forbidden Fruit ; the Expulsion from Paradise (much injured) ; Tilling the Ground after the Fall ; Adam and Eve in the Garden, very fine ; Abel tending his flocks ; the Remorse of Cain ; and Adam blessing his posterity : these are also by Ferrari. The lunettes below are by Lanini. All these frescoes may be more easily seen from the gallery which runs round three sides beneath the cupola. In that part of the church which connects the nave and the choir are two large frescoes by Luini, the Marriage of Joseph and Mary on the l.-hand, and Christ disputing with the Doctors on the rt. On the wall on the l.-hand side of the high altar is the Presentation in the Temple, with a view of the Ch. of Saronno, and oppo- site is the Adoration of the Magi. These 4 large frescoes are well preserved, and are, according to Lanzi, among the 232 Route 23. — Milan to Genoa, Sect. III. greatest of his works ; and certainly they are very superior to anything at Milan, with the exception, perhaps, of one or two small portions of fresco in the Brera ; for instance, (34) in the en- trance hall, the body of St. Catherine carried by 3 Angels to the Sepulclire. The 4 great frescoes of Luini in the ch. of Saronno afford admirable exam- ples of this style of painting, and are in excellent preservation : in the Ado- ration of the Magi, perhaps the best of the four, the Virgin and Child are ex- quisite examples of that union of beauty and tenderness which distin- guishes Luini' s best works ; the heads of the two kneeUng kings are admirable, and the transparency of the colours throughout affords the best example of fresco-painting. In the Christ disputing with the Doctors, although the figures of our Saviour and the Virgin are wanting perhaps in dignity, the whole is finely conceived ; the heads of the Doctors are admirable. Luini' s own portrait, which he has introduced, is very fine. In the fresco of the Marriage of the Virgin the principal figure is perhaps too much of a Venetian cha- racter, and wanting in youth and sim- plicity. All these paintings have been published by the Arundel Society. There are many smaller frescoes by Luini on the walls and ceiling of the choir ; amongst others, the EvangeHsts, and the four Doctors of the Church (which have been retouched), with St. Catherine, and St. ApoUonia ; and two Angels remarkable for the transparency of their colours. In the sacristy is a picture by G. C. Procaccini. On the wall of the cloister leading from the church to the priest's house is a Na- tivity by Luini. He was paid for the single figures of saints a sum corre- sponding to 22 frs., and received be- sides wine, bread, and lodging. For the other works he was paid so much a-day, together with bread and wine, and was so well pleased with his pay that he painted this last fresco for nothing. Beyond Saronno the level of the country rises, and the road, after pass- ing through Mozzate, Carbonate^ and Tradate, a large village, where, on a hill, are the remains of an ancient castle, crosses the Olona, [a short way lower down the river is the village of Castiglione di Olona, an interesting place from its mediaeval remains, but chiefly for the frescoes by Massolino da Panicale recently discovered in one of the churches and baptistery : they were executed about a.d. 1448 for Card. Borgia in the choir, and represent in- cidents in the life of the Virgin, St. Lawrence, and St. Stephen, to whom the ch. was dedicated. In one of the paintings is the portrait of the Cardinal, and the painter's name Maso- linus de Florentia, pinxit. Massolino painted also the adjoining Baptistery witli scenes from the Hfe of the Precur- sor ; the two principal subjects being, Salome preferring her request to Herod, and Herodias receiving from her daughter the head of the Baptist. C. di O. is about half-way between Sa- ronno and Varese] from which there is a continuous ascent to 2 Varese. See Route 18. EOUTE 23. MILAN TO GENOA, BY PAVIA, BY EAILWAY. Milan to Rogoredo . . 1 Locate . . . . 15 Villaraaggiore 20 La Certosa . . 28 Pavia 36 Cava Carbonara . 43 Zinasco . . . . 49 Pieve Albignola . 52 176 kil. = Sannazzaro Ferrera . Lomello . Mede . . Caste llaro ^" iTorreberetti p *~" < Alexandria . "^^ /Genoa . . 109 miles. . 57 . 60 . 67 . 71 . 76 80 101 176 The more direct route between Milan and Genoa (see p. 244) is from Pavia to Novi by Voghera, distance 152 kil., or 94 m. This journey is now performed by rly. in 5 or 6 hrs. ; 4 trains daily. Persons wishing to visit the Certosa from Milan can easily do so by starting LOMBARDY. Route 23. — Certosa of Pavia. 233 by the morning train, and proceeding from the Certosa to Pa via by the next, which will give them time to visit the notabilia of that city, and to return the same evening to Milan, or to proceed to Grenoa by an afternoon train. There is a small cafe restaurant near the rly. station, where visitors can obtain re- freshment and await the departure of the trains. On leaving Milan the road soon separates from the line to Venice by Treviglio, and 4 m. farther, at Rogeredo, the rly. to Piacenza, by Melegnano and Lodi, branches off on the 1. From here to La Certosa the line crosses a perfectly flat, highly fertile country, the greater part of the land being laid out for meadow purposes : it is traversed by numerous canals for irrigation. The traveller will observe the numerous Fontanili or Artesian wells on a small scale, by the side of the way, formed by sinking a barrel to an inconsiderable depth through the alluvial soil to where it meets a natural nappe of pure spring water, which thus flows to the surface, and at all seasons furnishes a large supply for the purposes of irrigation. [By the carriage - road quitting Milan by the Porta Ticinese, we enter what may be termed the most Flemish portion of the plain of Lombardy. Meadows, rich in clover, yield two or three crops a year ; thick rows of sallows and poplars bespeak the humidity of the soil, luxuriant even to rankness. On either side are frequent transverse or longitudinal cuts and canals. Of these, the largest is the Naviglio di Pavia, com- pleted during the French occupa- tion, which joins the Ticino at Pavia. The road skirts this canal all the way. From the gate of Milan to Pavia, the canal descends 182 ft. 8 in. ; there are 13 locks, the whole descent of which is 167 ft. 8 in. ; leaving for the descent of the canal alone 15 ft. The length is 20^ ra., the breadtli 42^ ft. At first it forms a considerable stream, but is continually giving off part of iU waters for the purposes of irrigation, and becomes very sluggish on its arrival at Pavia. About 4 m. on rt. of the station of Villamaggiore is Binasco, on the carriage-road from Milan and the Naviglio, a town of 5000 Inhab., remarkable for its castle, much modernised, still exhibiting the shield of the Viscontis. It was in this castle that the unhappy Beatrice di Tenda, widow of Facino Cane, and wife of Duke Filippo Maria, was, by his orders, beheaded in the night of September 13th, 1418. Beatrice was a lady of irreproachable virtue ; but, in the agonies of the torture, she confessed to the crime of infidehty imputed to her by the Duke ; or, as some say, she was convicted by the false testimony of Orombelloj who, accused as her para- mour, inculpated her in the hopes of saving his own life, but in vain. Bea- trice had been not only a most affec- tionate wife, but a wise and faithful counsellor to her husband, to whom she brought vast domains ; and it is difficult to account for his conduct. He was much addicted to astrology, . and a probable conjecture is, that, timid and cruel, some prediction that Beatrice would cause his death insti- gated him to the crime.] 28 kil. from Milan is the Certosa stat., which, although within a few hundred yards of the ch., is a quarter of an hour's walk, from the circuit necessary round the outer w^all of the monastery grounds. La Certosa of Pavia, commonly called the Certosa delta Beata Ver- gine delle Qrazie, the most splendid monastery in the world, founded by Grian Galeazzo Visconti, the first Duke of Milan. It was built by him as an atonement for guilt, to relieve his conscience of the murder of his uncle and father-in-law, Bernabo Visconti, and his family, who, having by trea- chery made himself master of Milan, he sent to the castle of Trezzo, where they were poisoned. The founda- tion was laid 8th September, 1396. 25 Carthusian monks were appointed 234 Route 23. — Certosa of Pavia, Sect. III. to take charge of this sanctuary, and executed, down to their expulsion in 1782, the task imposed on them, of augmenting the glory of the Madonna, by adding to the beauty of the Certosa. From 1782 to 1810 the Certosa was occupied by other orders, and in the latter year it was finally closed. Ex- aggerated reports have prevailed of the subsequent neglect of this splendid monument; blame, however, must be thrown on the E-epublican authorities, by whose order, in 1797, the lead was stripped from the roof. The monks were re-established in 1843, and the building is now well cared for, and kept in good order, by the produce of the monks' garden and casual offerings, and for more extensive repairs by the munificence of some wealthy Milanese families, the principal source being a legacy of about 6000 frs. by the late Count Mellerio, who also left his li- brary to it ; little is done by the Gro- vernment. There were in May, 1863, be- tween monks and novices, 32 inmates. Ladies are admitted into the nave and side chapels as far as the railing before the high altar^ hut are not allowed to enter the choir^ transepts^ sacristies^ library^ or the cloisters. The gateway or principal entrance to the monastery is covered with fres- coes, attributed to B. Luini. Its front towards the road is a spacious arch, flanked by two pilasters, and crowned with a widely projecting but low roof, beneath which are also numerous fres- coes, the best of the Annunciation. They are all much injured by exposure to the weather. Through this vestibule a quadran- gular court (109 yds. long, 45i yds. wide) is entered, the handsome build- ing on the rt. is the Forasteria, where visitors in the prosperous days of the monastery were liberally received and entertained, and at the opposite end is the gorgeous fagade of the church. The architect of the church, except- ing of the front, is said to have been Heinrich von Gmunden, or, as the Italians write it, Enrico da Gramodia, the same who began the Cathedral of Milan eleven years previously, although, from documents recently discovered, a certain Bernardo da Yenezia appears to have been the architect. " The style of the edifices is so different as almost to preclude the possibility of their being the productions of one man ; the present offers no indication of the taste of our northern artists, while the cathedral above mentioned abounds with them." — Woods. The outer walls, the buttresses, the wide niches on the exterior of the transept, and the dom.e are of the fine brickwork pecu- liar to the Lombard buildings of that epoch : the interior and fagade are of marble. Ambrogio da FossanOy called Borgognone^ known also as an excellent painter, designed the richly decorated fa9ade, which was begun in 1473. " It is an immense heap of little parts, in the taste of the cinque-cento^ often beautiful in themselves, but leaving no impression as a whole, except an unde- fined sentiment of its immense prodi- gality of riches." — Id. This front rises from an extensive platform of three steps : four pilasters and two square turrets, corresponding with the general internal arrangement, divide it into five spaces of neai ly equal breadth ; upon these spaces that profusion of sculpture is displayed which forms one of the principal features and attractions of this edifice. The central portion is oc- cupied by a richly decorated doorway or great entrance, formed of an arched roof resting upon four isolated Corin- thian columns ; above this is a kind of triforium of the Tuscan order, extending over the whole front, and serving as a base to a sort of shrine, on the frieze of which is the dedication to " Mary the Yirgin, mother, daughter, bride of God." A second triforium, extending over the three central divisions, terminates the front, which, after all, it appears was never finished. The otherwise inevitably striking defect of accumulation of objects is much lessened by openings judiciously introduced ; and where the play of light and shade which is the result was unattainable, the artist has LOMBARDY. Jioute 23. — Certosa of Pavia. 235 produced the same effect by stained marbles. Each of the pilasters and turrets is adorned with six statues; the master- pieces, however, of sculpture on this facade are to be found on and about the portico, and the four beautiful win- dows near it. The bas-reliefs on the walls of the central doorway represent, on the rt.-hand side, the laying the foundation of the church ; on the 1. the funeral procession bringing the body of Giovanni Galeazzo to the Certosa (Nov. 9, 1443) ; and above, Pope Alexander III. granting a charter to the Carthusian order, and the conse- cration of the church. The small bas- rehefs represent histories of St. Am- brose, St. Jolm Baptist, St. Sirus, and the Virgin, and are, according to Cicog- nara, "oltre ognicredere degni d' am- mirazione." The base is full of curious medalhons, with heads of classic heroes and Roman emperors, sacred and pro- fane personages, intermixed with arms, trophies, &c. Many fh'st-rate artists contributed to the works in sculpture of the Certosa; among whom were Monte- gazza, Giov. Ant. Amadeo, or Omodeo, Andr. Fusina, Agostino Busti named il Bambaja, Marco Agrate, Gian Giacomo della Porta, and Christofano Solari, called il Gobbo, to whom are ascribed the exquisite chiseUings in the cande- labra, between the windows, and the bas-reliefs on each side the door. Interior. — The plan of the church is a Latin cross, of which the length is 249 ft., and the width 173. The nave has four square divisions, each subdivided on the vault, and with oblique and perpendicular groins. The groining of the side aisles is singular, each space being, in fact, covered with five unequal pointed groins, meeting in a common centre. Opening into the aisles, are ranges of 7 chapels on each side, two into each square division of the nave. The choir and arms of the cross have each two square divisions, so that there are seven on the whole length of the church, and five on that of the transept. The 8 statues before the pillars of the nave represent the 4 Evangelists and the Doctors of the Church ; they are works of the best artists of the 16th centy. Rich bronze gates divide the nave from the transept. Every part of • the interior is most richly decorated. The altars are inlaid with pietra-dura work, executed in the finest manner, and in which the most rare and costly materials are employed. Many good paintings which were in the church have been removed. The best of those wliich remain are — 1st chapel on the rt., Borgognone^ small fresco over a door; the Madonna, and Angels adoring the infant Saviour ; — 2nd, dedicated to St. Hugh of Lincoln, GiovarC Giacomo Fava^ called also Macrino d'Alba, a rare Piedmontese master, 1496, an altar- piece in six compartments, 2 of which are by Borgognone ; — 3rd, Carlo Cornara^ S. Benedict, in a vision, sees his sister Sta. Scolastica ascending to heaven, dated 1668 ; — 4th, Borgognone, Christ on the Cross, with the Maries at the foot, a very interesting picture on panel ; — 5th, the altar-piece, of St. Sirus enthroned and the fresco in the vaulting, are by Borgognone ; and a stained glass wmdow, representing St. Michael, by Antonio di Pandino ; — 6th, the altarpiece of this chapel is by Guercino, it represents St. and St. Paul adoring the Virgin and Child. On the other side of the nave, in the 2nd chapel from the W. end, is an altar once decorated with paintings in six compartments, all by Fietro Ferugino, Of these only one remains. It is in the centre of the upper row, and represents God the Father holding a globe sur- mounted by cherubim. The 4 Doc- tors of the Church, attributed to Bor- gognone, on either side, replace two paintings carried away in 1796 by the J^rench ; the lower range, consisting of figures of the Virgin, of the Arch- angel Raphael, and of Tobias, are old copies of the originals, which are now in the National Gallery in London, having been purchased by the British Government for 4000^. of Duke Melzi, 236 Boute 23. — Certosa of Pavia, Sect. III. whose ancestor, one of the active agents of the Cisalpine repubhc, had obtained possession of them. In the 6th chapel are a splendid painting, St. Ambrose on a throne with 4 other Saints, by Borgognone^ and an Annun- ciation by E. Frocaccini. The transepts. — In the S. transept is the tomb of Grian' Galeazzo, the founder, designed by Galeazzo Pel- legrino^ in 1490, but not completed till 1562. Many artists of unequal merit worked upon it during this long period. Over his statue, recumbent upon a sar- cophagus, rises a canopy of the richest cinquecento workmanship. Observe the trophies upon the pilasters. In the second story are six fine historical bas-rehefs: — Gian' Galeazzo receiving the baton of command from his father — his creation as Duke of Milan by the Emperor Wenceslaus — his founda- tion of the Certosa — the like of the Citadel of Milan — his victory over the Imperialists at Brescia (1402) — and the refoundation or dotation of tbe uni- versity of Pavia. These are attributed to Gio. Ant. Amadeo. Other parts are said to be by Gio. Giac. delta Forta. It seems from the inscription that the monument was constructed by Gian^ Cristoforo Romano ; the statues of Fame and Victory, at the extremities of the tomb, are by 'Bernardino da Novi. That of the Virgin and Child is by Ber- nardino de^ Brioschi. The monument, however, was, in a manner, executed to no purpose. Gian' Galeazzo died at Marig- nano, 3rd Sept. 1402 ; and his funeral was celebrated with extraordinary pomp in the Cathedral of Milan. Afterwards the body was removed to the Certosa, but the place where it had been interred was completely forgotten when this monument was set up. At the end of the S. transept is the altar of S. Bruno, on the vault above which is a fresco, representing the family of Gian' Galeazzo Visconti on their knees before the Virgin : he is offering her a model of the church, Filippo kneels behind, and his two other sons, Giovanni and Gabriele Maria, on the opposite side. Tliis fresco is by Bra- tnantinOj by whom are also the 4 saints on each side of the arch, and the angels on the entablature above, supporting shields on which the arms of the Vis- contis are blended with the mottoes of the Carthusians. Here also are two fine bronze candelabra, by Font ana, and some brilliant stained glass. In the N. transept are, the monu- ments of the unfortunate Ludovico il Moro, and of his beloved wife, Beatrice d'Este. She was a lady of singular talent and beauty; and hav- ing died in childbirth, Jan. 2, 1497, he caused this monument to be erected at an expense of 50,000 ducats. Her body was interred here ; but the monu- ment was first placed in the church of St. Maria delle Grazie at Milan, and removed here in 1564. Both are said to be by Solaris and are finely executed : the costume is curious. Before the altar, at the end of the N. transept, are also two fine candelabra, by Fontana ; and in the apse frescoes, by Borgo- gnone. The choir. — The fine wooden doors with intaglios, and bas-reliefs repre- senting the principal events of the life of S. Bruno, are by Virgilio de^ Conti ; and the intarsiatura work in the seats by Bartolomeo da Fola, 1486, repre- senting heads of the Apostles and saints ; the fine balustrade, on which stand 4 bronze candlesticks, is by Fon- tana, as also the bas-reliefs on the waUs, on each side of the altar, and the richly adorned high altar itself. Some of the bas-reliefs here are very fine ; those before the altar and on the credence table are by Stefano di Sesto. The frescoes which cover the choir are the last work of F. Crespi. By the side of the altar, at the end of the S. transept, is the entrance into The Sagrestia Nova, a very fine hall covered with frescoes by Pietro Sorri (1600). Here is an excellent altar-piece, the lower part by Andrea Solan, the upper by Bernardo Carnpi. The pictures on each side are by Solari. B. Luini, St. Ambrose, and St. Martin dividing his cloak with the Beggar. — Morazzone, S, LOMBARDY. Route 23. — Paiiia : DuomOi 237 Teresa with St. Peter and St. Paiil. — Montagna^ the Yu'gin with 2 saints and a Choir of Angels. — Some small paint- ings, St. Peter, St. Paul, and angels, are by Borgognone. !Dsear the Sagrestia Nova are the two Chapter-houses, which woidd be fine halls any where else : they contain no remarkable works of art, if we except a bas-rehef of the Vu'gin and Child with portraits of Gean Galeazzo and his son Fihppo Maria, attributed to the Montegazzas. The Lavatory^ Lavatoio^ or Lavacro de* Monacij on the S. side of the choir, opens out of the S. transept. Above the richly-sctdptured doorway are seven medaUions of Duchesses of Milan. Over the Lavatory fountain is a bust of the ar- chitect of the ch., •prohablj Bernardo da Venezia. Observe also — Alberto Car- rara, two bas-reliefs, the Kiss of Judas, and the Washing of the Feet of the Dis- ciples. — B. Luini, a fresco, of the Yir- gin and Child, the latter holding a flower. The stained glass is by Cristo- foro d^ Motis, 1477 ; a very beautiful work. From here we may ascend to the roof, and examine the construction of that part of the building. A door leads from the Lavatory into the ceme- tery of the monks. The Sagrestia Vecchia, on the oppo- site side of the choir. — Over the door are fine medallions of the Dukes of Milan ; and, on each side, a Choir of Angels, by Amadeo, considered amongst his best productions. The Sacristy cor- responds in style with the Lavatory : in it is a curious ancient altar-piece, worked in the ivory of the teeth of the hippopotamus, containing G7 basso- rihevos and 80 small statues — all sub- jects from the New Testament, by Ber- nardo degli Ubbriachi. Several paint- ings ; the best are a portrait of Card. Colonna, by Guido, and a St. Augustin, by Borgognone. Opening out of the S. transept is the Ghiostro della Fontana^ov small cloister of 50 round arches, in which may be noticed numerous bas-rehefs of terra- cotta over the arches and on the fi'ieze, much prized by Cicognara: Children playing upon musical Instruments. The doorway of white marble, leading from the church, is a masterpiece of Amadeo's. On tlie S. side is the Lavaho^ or fountain, from which it takes its name. The fine bas-relief over it, re- cently restored, represents our Lord and the Woman of Samaria. From the Chiostro della Fontana, a passage on 1. side of which opens the Library, now replenished by a bequest of Count Mellerio, we enter The great cloister is 412 ft. long by 334 ft. wide. The arches are of moulded brick, in the finest cinque- cento style. Tliree sides are surrounded by 24 cells of the monks. Each is a separate dwelling, containing 4 good- sized rooms, 2 above and 2 below, with a small garden behind and a covered walk. On the side of the doors are small wickets by which the monks re- ceive their meals from the general kitchen, the rules of the order being that they only meet and dine together in the great refrectory, which is on the W. side of the Chiostro della Fontana, on Sundays and on certain great fes- tivals. A beautiful work on the Certosa, containing architectural drawings of the building, and minute details of its various parts and rich decorations (about 70 plates), has been published by the brothers Graetano and Francesco Durelli of Milan. A brief description of the Certosa, Visit a alia Certosa di Favia, may be procured from the cicerone charged by the prior to show strangers over it. The monks depend much upon the donations of travellers ; visitors there- fore ought to be liberal. The large enclosed garden behind the monastery, which is surrounded by a high wall, is let for 3000 frs. a year, which are appHed exclusively to the repairs and restorations of the ch. and convent. The battle of Pavia, Feb. 24, 1525, in which Francis I. was taken prisoner, was fought in the neighbourhood of the Certosa. From the Certosa stat. the rly. runs parallel to the Naviglio to near the 238 Route 23. — Pavia : San Michele, Sect. III. gate of Pavia, where it crosses the Canal, continuing to the Porta di Borgorata^ outside which is the 8 kil. Pavia Stat., 15 minutes' walk from the Piazza. Carriages and omni- bus to the different hotels will be found. {Lms : La Croce Bianca, in the Corso, or principal street, the best, but dirty : Albergo del Pozzo.) Pop. 30,000. JPavia la Dotta was the capital of the Lombard kings, and the gloomy Cas- tello is supposed to stand on the site of their palace. The present building, how- erer, was raised in 1460, and completed in 1469. When perfect, it formed an ample quadrangle, flanked by 4 towers, 2 of which alone remain. The inner court was surrounded by a double cloister, or loggia : in the upper one the arches were filled in by the most deli- cate tracery in brickwork : the whole was crowned by elegant forked battle- ments. In the towers were depo- sited the treasures of literature and art which G-ian' Galeazzo had collected ; — ancient armour ; upwards of 1000 •manuscripts, which Petrarch had as- sisted in selecting ; and many natural curiosities. All these Visconti collections were carried to France in 1499 by Louis XII., and nothing was left but the bare walls. One side of the palace or castle was demolished during the siege by Lautrec in 1527 ; but in other re- spects it continued perfect, though de- serted, till 1796, when it was again put into a state of defence by the French. They took off the roof, and covered the vaultings with earth ; and when the rains came on in autumn, the moisture and the weight broke down the vaultings and ruined great part of the edifice. It has since been fitted up as a barrack, and contains at present a large artillery force : in some parts the tracery of the interior arches is tolerably perfect ; and the great ruined gateway, once entered by a drawbridge crossing the fosse, is still a fine object. The Duomo^ San Stefano^ or cathe- dral, was commenced in 1488, but never finished. It was erected upon the site of an ancient Lombard basilica, of which there are some remains towards the Piazza. They are in the same style as what we shaU see at S. Michele. The 3 western doors are Lombard. The first stone was laid by Q-aleazzo Maria Sforza, and his brother Ludovico ; the captivity of the latter was one of the causes which prevented the prosecu- tion of the edifice. The architect was Christoforo Eocchi, a pupil of Bra- mante. A spacious octagon occupies the centre, and a nave and side aisles, extending in each direction, were to have formed the cross ; the side aisles opening into the oblique sides of the octagon, wliich are smaller than the others. The pulpit is of great size, surrounding one of the large clustered columns. The colossal Terms, repre- senting the Fathers of the Church, bent forwards, and supporting the pulpit, are finely executed in dark wood. A curious reminiscence of the age of romance is found in the lance of Orlando, a decayed shaft as large as a boat's mast, suspended from the roof of the cathedral. In the side chapel on the rt. is the tomb of St. Augustine, the greatest of the Fathers of the Latin Church. It was preserved and brought hither when the church of St. Pietro in Coelo Aureo, where Liutprand King of the Lombards deposited the body in 700, was destroyed. It dates from the 14th century. The body of St. Augustine (ob. 430) was removed from Hippo, a suffragan see of Car- thage, during the Arian persecutions, when the Catholic clergy, being ba- nished by King Thrasimund to Sar- dinia, carried the relic thither with them. Here it continued until Liut- prand purchased it from the inhabit- ants, who, exposed to the constant in- vasions of the Saracens, could no longer ensure safety to the pilgrims who re- sorted to the shrine. The remains of the saint were deposited by Liutprand in a species of catacomb or sepulchral chapel, where, when opened in 1090, the bones were found, wrapped in a silken tissue, together with some of his epis- LoMBAllDYi Route 23. — Pavia, 239 OF THE . , tijjivERsiTY OF \imm LOMBARDY. Route 23. — Pama : Churchas. 241 copal ornament?, all contained in a silver shrine, of which tlie exterior is now exposed to view in the lower part of the present monument. There is some uncertainty as to the names of the artists by whom tliis magnificent pile Avas erected. Cicognara, who says it must be reckoned amongst the most "magnificent and grandiose" of the 14th centmy, supposes it was executed by Flefro Paolo and Jacohello delle Masegne. Yasari, on the contrary, at- tributes it to Agostino and Agnolo of Siena. This assertion Cicognara sup- poses to be contradicted by the date stated in the books of the priory to linve been 1362. The tomb consists of four tiers : the basement, the sepulclu^al urn, upon which is extended the statue ■of the saint in his episcopal robes, under the canopy, and the surmounting sta- tues and pinnacles. G-reat invention and variety are displayed in the smaller statues and bas-reliefs. Round St. Au- gustin are the saints whom his order produced. Several figures adjust the shroud around him ; the Liberal Arts and the Cardinal Virtues, the prin- cipal events of the history of the saint, and the miracles operated by his inter- cession after his death, adorn the upper portions of the tomb — 290 figures in all ; and Gian' Q-aleazzo Visconti pro- posed to have added more. The me- chanical execution corresponds with the beauty of the design. There are some good pictures in the cathedral, but the darkness of the build- ing makes it rather difficult to distin- guish them. The best are, I). Crespi, the Virgin and Child, St. Sirus and St. Anthony of Padua ; H. Sqjaro, the Virgin of the Rosary; and O. B. Crespi, the Wise Men's Offering, The cam- panile is a noble square massy tower x)f brick, not much altered from Gothic times. The church of San Mlcliele ranks before the cathedral in age. The exact date of the construction of this church is not accurately known. The first time it is mentioned is by Paulus Diaconus, who incidentally re* N, Italy— IS^^. lates that, in 661, Unulfus took sanc- tuary in this church to escape the vengeance of King Gnmoaldus. The probability, however, is that it had only been recently finished at that time ; because the particular veneration for the Archangel Michael, which com- menced in Apulia in 503, did not reach the North of Italy till a century later. In addition to which we find that, during the whole of the 6th century, the inhabitants of Pavia were occupied w^ith the construction of their cathedral, San Stefano ; and it is not likely that they would have carried on two worka of such magnitude at the same time. San Michele is 189 ft. long by 81 ft. wide; the nave is 45 ft. wide. The plan is that of a basilica, with the addition of 2 short transepts. The chancel is approached by several steps, which was probably an alteration in- troduced in later times than when the church was built. The mosaic pave- ment beneath the high altar is sup- posed to date from the 6tli or 7th centy. There is a curious crucifix in the chapel on rt. of the choir with the date 673. Above the aisles, on each side of the nave, there is a triforium gallery ; above the intersection of the nave and the transepts an octagonal cupola ; and under the choir a crypt of 7 arches, probably of the 10th centy. The 4 arches on either side of the nave are supported by compound piers. AU the capitals of these piers are enriched with animals, spliynxes, images, symbols &c. The roof is remarkable. Unlike those of the old Basilicas, in wood, it is vaulted with stone; but the pilasters which run up to support the vault are of a later character than the other por- tions of the building, and confirm the impression, suggested by the natui'e of the roof itself, which is groined, that the present vaulted roof must have been substituted for an older one of wood. The walls of the building are of stone, massive and thick. The exterior is ornamented with small open galleries, which follow the shape of the gable in front, and crown the semicircular apse. The portals exhibit the com- 242 Route 23. — 'Pavia : Churches. Sect. Hi. plete adoption of tlie round form in- stead of the square, with the addition of several mouldings, and a profusion of imagery; nor are the ornaments confined to the portals. Bands, en- riched with imagery, are carried along the whole of the front, and modillions are let into the walls. The windows are roundheaded, and divided by small pillars. The ornaments of the portals are a mixture derived from Christian, Pagan, and Scandinavian sources, to- gether with some which are merely introduced for the purpose of decora- tion, and afford a good example of their peculiar style. San Michele may be taken as a specimen of a style which the Lombards adopted for their own. In the chou* are some early frescoes by Antonio da JSdessa, a contemporary of G-iotto's ; there is also a tolerable painting by 3£oncalvo. Santa Maria del Carmine^ or S. Fan- taleone^ built in the 14th cent., is a ch. deserving of notice as a beautiful speci- men of the finest brickwork, and for its pointed style more akin to English- Gothic than almost any ch. in Italy : in the cornice are intersecting orna- mental arches, and the W. front has a large rose- window, six pointed win- dows, and three pointed doors, all formed in finely-moulded terra-cotta, the whole surmounted by an elaborate, although perhaps heavy cornice, witli 7 elegant pinnacles. The bell-tower is remarkable for its height and beauty, a square tower surmounted by a brick spire, the whole capped by a very hand- some lanthorn on columns of white inarble. The brick pillars of the in- side deserve notice ; fom' squares form the nave, each of which is covered by a simple groin, but opens by two small lancet arches separated by massive piers into the side aisles, and has a very small circular window above. The brickwork has been hacked, to retain a coat of stucco or whitewash. The waUs and vaults are also of brickwork, but of very different quality. These were evidently intended to be covered. The upper capitals are of stone, ornamented with detached leaves ; the lower are of brick, cut into escutcheon faces. The rose window in the centre of the facade, the lateral double-headed ones, and the frieze on the sides of the church, are very fine. There are some frescoes of the 15th centy. on the piers of the nave. San Francesco is another fine church of the same material and style. " The upper part of the front, with one large central arch, surrounded by a number of plain and. enriched bands, is finely composed." — Woods. The pointed arch of the W. front is elaborate, a great number of terra-cotta orna- ments introduced. The inside has been miserably modernised. A painting by Campi is the only picture worthy of notice. Santa Maria di Canepanova is a specimen of the cinquecento style, by Bramante. It was begun in 1492 by Graleazzo Maria Sforza, and contams some pretty good frescoes by Moncalvo, and several subjects from the Old Testa- ment by Giulio Cesare and Camillo Proeaccini. Of the celebrated church of San Bietro in Cielo d' Oro some portions remain, partly in ruins, and partly used as a storehouse. Here was one of the interesting monuments of Italy, the tomb of Boethius. The churches of San Teodoro aild of San Marino were erected in the 8th and 9th centuries ; but the interiors of both have been so entirely modernised that there is now little in either worthy of notice. In the latter is a good painting by Cesare da Sesto of the Virgin and Child : on the walls of the choir frescoes of acts of St. Theodore and St. Agnes, and on 1. of the nave one, lately uncovered, with a curious view of the city in the 15th centy. The ch. has a raised choir, under wliich is a lower chapel like that at S. Michele ; on the walls of the nave are some me- diseval paintings. . The covered bridge over the Ticmo was built by Gian' Galeazzo, and from his time to the present has been a fa- vourite promenade of the inhabitants LOMBARDV. lloute 23. — Pavia : Uniursitij, 243 of Pavia. The body of the work is brick, with stone quoins to the arches. Its roof is supported by 100 rough cohimns of granite. The ch. beyond it has some curious Lombard earrings on the outside. A little way out of tlie town is the Lombard church of the Beato Lan- franco. It offers a beautifully varied outhne. Behind its high altar is the monument of the Beato, a good work by OmadeOj consisting of a sarco- phagus resting on pillars of coloured marble, with bas-reliefs of great beauty, probably the history of the saint; it was this Lanfranco who was the con- fidential adviser of WilUam the Con- queror, by whom he was promoted to the See of Canterbuiy (1071), which he governed for 17 years ; in the adjoin- ing neglected cloisters are some good fragments of terra-cotta decoration. Outside the city is the ch. of San Salvatore. In the inside Corinthian pilasters support pointed arches. The whole is richly gilt and painted. Here is a school for boys in connexion with the university. The University of Pavia claims a high antiquity. It is said to have been founded by Charlemagne in 774 j and, though this assertion is not susceptible of strict liistorical proof, it is certain that the civil law was professed at Pavia at a very early period. That great restorer and reformer of the Church of England, Lanfranc, Archbishop of Canterbury in the reign of the Con- queror, was bom at Pavia of a family who possessed by inheritance the riglit of administering the civil laws, perhaps derived from their senatorial dignity in the Koman period. The splendour of the University, however, arose mainly from G-ian' Galeazzo, who, about 1390, granted it so many additional privileges that he is usually honoiu-ed as the founder. But these parchments might have been a dead letter, had not the duke wisely appointed the celebrated Baldus professor of civil law. He was a man of wonderful acuteness and dili- gence, and possessed what would now be termed an European reputation, to the highest extent. Kings and XDrinces consulted him upon points of public law, and his commentaries *' on the Corpus, Big and lumpy as a porpoise," contain a mine of learning. In more modern times Pavia has been princi- pally distinguished as a medical school ; and in tliis branch of knowledge it has produced men of great eminence. It is yet in considerable repute, contain- ing about 1600 students. The anato- mical theatre is well contrived, and the professors of the medical faculty have always enjoyed a high reputation. Little can be seen of the ancient buildings of the University. Maria Theresa, in 1779, and the Emperor Joseph, in 1787, fronted and adorned much of the old part, and built two new quadrangles ; and still more re- cently (1816) the principal fa9ade, which extends along the Corso, was erected by Marcliese^ by order of the Emperor Francis I. The museums of anatomical and pathological prepara- tions and of specimens of natural his- tory are remarkably good. It also contains a library of 50,000 vols., and a Numismatic collection. To this uni- versity also is annexed a school of the fine arts. There are five fine courts, against the walls of tv/o of which are placed monuments of early professors, some of them when the churches where they had been originally erected were suppressed. One of these is of the celebrated jurist Alciatus. Most of the older monuments are on the same model — representing the professor seated in the midst of liis pupils, who are listening to his lectures. Though often venerable-looking, long- bearded men, the pupils, to denote their inferiority, are made about half the size of their masters, which gives them the appearance of old boys. Tlieir countenances and attitudes gene- rally denote intense attention. Some eminent men of more recent times have monuments here — Spalanzani, FoU' tana J and ScojpoUy Volta, JScarj) a, Franks 31^ 244 Route 23,—^Pavia to Genoa, Sect III* and IlascJierinij all of whom were pro- fessors in this university. Of the many colleges formerly an- nexed to the university, two only have remained, the Collegio Borromeo^ founded and supported by that family for the gratuitous education of stu- dents, and resembHng some of the Halls or Colleges of our English Uni- versities, and the Collegio Ghislieri. In front of the latter is a bronze statue of its founder, Pope Pius Y. The Collegio Borromeo is a very large quadrangular pile, founded by St. Charles, the inside is a magnificent quadrangle of two stories, on the upper one of which is a large hall, with fres- coes relative to the life of the founder, by Zuccharelli. The C. B. admits about 30 pupils for gratuitous instruc- tion, w^ho are lodged and fed during their attendance at the university. Behind the university, tlu'ee of the high and gloomy towers, resembling those at Bologna, by so many of which Pavia was once adorned, defended, or tyrannised over, are well seen. Some are still from 200 to 250 ft. high, uni- form in aspect, square, with small aper- tures all the way up, and adding much to the character of the city by their singular appearance, the highest is op- posite to the hospital, and hence called La Torre del Ospedale. If the accounts of historians are to be credited, Pavia, the " Civitas Turrigera," at one time possessed 525 of these towers. Amongst the establishments at Pavia to interest the traveller is the Stahil- mento Malaspina in the Piazza di Loreto, consisting of a gallery of paint- ings and some miscellaneous curiosities. It was formed by a nobleman of the town, and made over by him to the municipality for the use of the public, but the paintings are of a very second- rate character, and in many instances decorated with names of great artists, to which they have no claim. In the adjoining Malaspma palace, one of the handsomest in Pavia, are some Roman and mediaeval marbles and inscriptions. Pavia is not healthy.; fevers are prevalent, and, whatever may be the cause, individuals who are stunted in their gi'owth, or deformed, are so nu- merous as to force themselves upon the observation. Amongst the notabilia of Pavia must be noticed the ancient costume of the ladies, which is rather declining at Milan. It is a hlacJc silken veil, thrown over the uncovered head in the same manner as the wliite veil is used at Grenoa. Rly. from Pavia to Cremona and Brescia, which abridges the journey from Pavia and Genoa to Yenice and Trieste, especially when the projected line between Cremona and Mantua will have been opened. Ely. between Pavia and Yoghera, crossing' the Po by a fine bridge. 65 kil. Alessandria. (Ete. 5.) . 140 kil. Genoa. (Rte. 13.) There is a more direct line from Pavia to Genoa, travelled by the express trains from Milan, passing by Yoghera, Tortona, and Novi. Milan to KIL. EIL. Pavia. . . . , 36 Ponte Curone . 71 Cava Manara . 43 Tortona . . 80 Brassana . . . 50 Pozzuolo . 95 Calcababbio . , 55 Novi . . . 99 Voghera . . . 63 Genoa . . . 152 On quitting Pavia, both lines of rly. cross — by the same bridge — the Ticino, that for Yoghera branching off on the 1. to 7 kil. Cava Manara Stat., soon after passing which a fine rly. bridge tra* verses the Po to 7 kil. Brassana Stat., the first vil- lage in the Oltre Po Pavese. 3 kil. Calcababbio Stat. 8 kil. Voghera Stat., on the great line of rly. from Bologna to Turin (Kte. 5). 8 kil. JPonfe Curone Stat., on the' river of that name, a passage hotly con- tested in 1859 against the Austrians by the French and Italians. 9 kil. Tortona Stat. (Rte. 5), from which a branch line of 12 m. strikes off from the main line to Alexandria ta 18 kil. J^ovi Stat. 54 kil. Genoa. Milan to Genoa 152 kil. = 94^ m. LoMBAPvDY. Route 23q. — Pavia to Cremona and Brescia, 245 ROUTE 23b. PATIA TO CREMONA AND BRESCIA, BY CODOGNO, PIZZIGHETONE, &C. KIL. KIL. Pavia to ! Pizzighetone . 55 Motio S. Damiano '8 i Acqua Negra 61 Belgioioso ... 15 ' Cava Tigozzi . 70 Corte Oloua . . 20 I Cremona . . 75 Miradolo ... 25 Olmenetta . . 86 Chignolo Po . . 29 Robecco . . 91 Osp^aletto . . 36 I Verolonova . 98 Casal Pusterlengo 43 Bagnolo . .112 Codogno ... 47 Brescia . . 124 124 kn. = 77 m. Two direct trains daily in the morn- ing and afternoon in 4 and 5 hrs. ; 2 additional ones between Pavia and Cremona, and Cremona and Brescia. This Une of rly. traverses one of the richest agricultural districts of Italy, the Lower Pavesano, Lodigiano, and Cremonese, a great part of which con- sists of irrigated meadow and pasture grounds, whilst much of the lands be- tween Cremona is in arable and mul- berry-tree plantations. 8 kil. Motta S. Damiano Stat. 7 kil. Belgioiso^ a large village, the centre of a great cheese district, 3 m. beyond which traverses the Olona stream to 5 kil. Corte Olona Stat., where we enter the Lodigiano, or district around Lodi. 6 kil. Miradolo Stat. Tlie village is upon the declivity of an isolated group of tertiary hills, abounding in fossil shells about San Colonbano, near which is Lodi Vecchio, the supposed site of Laus Pompei, 5 m. S.W. of the modern Lodi. 17 kil. Casal Pusterlengo Stat, on the line of rly. from Milan to Piacenza, which we follow to 4 kil. Codogno Junct. Stat. (Rte. 25). 8 kil. Pizzighetone Stat, a fortress on the Adda (Rte. 25). Here we enter the province of Cremona, the line running parallel to the river, and passing through 9 kil. Acqua Negra Stat., and 6 kil. Cava Tigozzo Stat., before reaching 5 kil. Cremona Stat. (Rte. 25), From here the rly. to Brescia assumes a northerly direction, passing along the hne from Cremona to Milan (Rte. 25), as far as 10 kil. Olmenetta Stat., branching off on rt. Our rte., after 3 m., reaches 5 kil. Rohecco Stat., a good-sized town near the Oglio, where it is joined by the Strona, crossing the river to Pontavico. 7 kil. Verolonitova Stat., also a con- siderable place on the Strona. 2 m. further cross the Mella, descending rom Brescia at 5 kil. Manerhio Stat. 9 kil. Bagnolo Stat. 8 kil. further is the S. Zeno Golzano Stat., and 5 kil. Brescia Stat. (See Rte. 27). ROUTE 24. MILAN TO PIACENZA, BY HELEaNANO, LODI, AND CASAL PUSTERLENGO. Kil. Milan to Rogoredo ... 7 Melegnano . .18 Tavazzano ... 25 Lodi 33 j;il Secugnago ... 45 Casal Pusterlengo 52 Codogno . . .57 S. Stefano ... 61 Piacenza ... 69 69 kil. = 43 m. The railway from Milan to Piacenza follows nearly the line of the old post- road. 5 trains daily in IJ hr. Leaving Milan, the country is for most part of the way of the same cha- racter as that to Pavia; in some parts exceedingly marshy, intersected with nuiAerous canals and streams. It is perhaps the least agreeable side of Milan. If the traveller is coming from the S. he will miss the festoons of the vines, which, even before he reaches Lodi, will have almost en- 246 Boute 24. — Milan to Piacenza, Sect. III. tirely disappeared. The maize, though beautiful in flower and in ear, is, when ripe, arid in appearance and ungraceful. The rice plantations, below the level of the road, and where the cultivators labour in black mud above the ankle, convey the idea of unhealthiness ; but the meadows are beautiful. Chateau- vieux says, " The cultivation of rice in Lombardy is remarkably unhealthy; sickly labourers are seen walking along the banks to superintend the distribu- tion of the water. They are clad like miners, in coarse clothing, and wander about, pale as spectres, among the reeds and near the sluices, which they have barely strength to open and shut. When crossing a canal they are fre- quently obliged to plunge into the water, out of which they come wet and covered with mud, carrying with them germs of fever, which invariably attacks them. They are not the only victims, for the harvest labourers seldom gather in the crop without being seized with rigors, the air in all the environs being polluted by the stagnant waters. The cultivation of the rice-planters is con- sequently restrained by law, and they are prohibited to extend its culture beyond prescribed limits.'* [At 3 m. from Porta Romana, on the Vetabbia, a short way on the rt. of the rlwy., is the very ancient church of San Giorgio di Nosedo, annexed to what was a residence of the Arch- bishop. The mansion is now an inn. The church was founded in 571, by Alboin King of the Lombards : it is still standing, and has the remains of a curious fresco. About 1 m. lower down the river, and 1 J m. to the rt. of the road, stands the Abbey of Chiaravalle, a Cistercian monastery, suppressed in 1797. A cross road, which leaves the post-route about 1 m. from the Porta Romana, passing by Nosedo, leads to it. " This was the church of the first Cistercian monastery that was established in Italy. The Cis- tercian reform was first introduced by St. Bernard, who was Abbot of Clair- vaux in France. In 1134 St. Bernard crossed the Alps to attend a council at Pisa, and, on his way back, paid a visit to Milan. The citizens of Milan advanced 7 miles beyond their gates to receive him. His presence excited the most enthusiastic feelings ; and within a year after his departure a monastery was bunt at the distance of about4miles from the city, which was to be governed by St. Bernard's rules, and to receive a name from the parent institution. The monastery was inhabited in 1136, but it was not till 1221 that the church was consecrated and dedicated to S. Maria di Chiaravelle. It is in the Lombard style, and deserves considera- tion, as an architectural composition, for the importance of its central tower. The body of the fabric is left perfectly plain, and, in effect, serves only as a base for the leading feature of the design. The tower alone is enriched. Octagonal, formed of 3 stories, de- creasing upwards, and pierced with ob- long circular arches, it is surmounted by a circular brick spire. The octagonal portions are enriched with Lombard galleries, which give an appearance of lightness, and attract the eye to that part of the building on which it is intended to rest. It is evident that the architect must have made the central tower his chief object ; and whenever an architect has had a peculiar object, and has succeeded in producing the effect which he desired, his work deserves to be studied. This monastery was the favourite retirement of Ottone Visconti, the cele- brated Archbishop of Milan, who died in it. What is called his tomb is still shown; beneath the inscription are shields of arms, amongst which are the fleurs-de-lys of France. In the cemetery which adjoins the church, and behind the fine choir, are still several monuments of the powerful family of the Torriani, who selected it for their last resting-place. Here hes Pagano della Torre (who died 1241), the most distinguished of his race, and near him several of his descendants. This family was at the head of the pouplar party, and for two or three LoMBARDY. BotUe 2ii.-~Clmramlle — Melegmno — Lodi, 247 generations governed Milan, keeping the nobles in subjection. Having con- spired against the Emperor in the year 1311, they were defeated, proscribed, and banished; their fall made way for their rivals the Yiscontis, who were at tlie head of the aristocracy. ^ Here also is shown the tomb of the celebrated but heretical 'VVilliehnina. Her name passed into a once popular Baying — e(/ll ha da fare peggio che la G-iiglielmina. She died in 1282, and during her Hfetime she was regarded as a saint ; but after her death it was dis- covered that she had founded a secret sect, whose tenets involved the most fearful blasphemies in doctrine, as well as the most abominable sins in practice. Her bones were taken up and burned, and her accompHces put to death. The cruelties inflicted upon them w^ere most atrocious. The country round this monastery was reclaimed by the labours of the Cistercians, who were in agriculture almost what the Benedictines were in literature. They invented the system of artificial meadows, called ^^jorati di Marcifa,^' to which Lombardy owes so much of its prosperity. Returning to the railway, we pass thi'ough 7 kil. Rogoredo Stat. 10 kil. Melegnano or Marignano Stat.i on the river Lambro : Pop. 4000. Here, on the 14th September, 1515, Francis I. won, in the first year of his reign, the victory by which he acquired a transient and delusive glory. Having invaded the Milanese territory for the purpose of asserting his chimerical rights, he was attacked at Melegnano by the Swiss, to whom the defence of the Milanese territory had been intrusted. The battle was con- tinued with great obstinacy during 3 entire days, and the Swiss were at length compelled to retreat, in good order, but leaving 15,000 dead upon the field, a slaughter which, if we may judge by the feelings expressed by Ariosto, occa- sioned great dehght to the Italian heart : — ■ " Vedete il Re Francesco innanzi a tutti, Che cosi rompe a' Svizzeri le coma, Che poco resta a non gli aver distrutti ; Si che '1 titolo mai piii non jjli adorna, Ch' usurpato s'avran quel villan l^rutti, Che domator de" Principi, e difesa Si nomeran della Cristiana Chiesa." Canto xxxiii. 43. Melegnano was also the scene of a hard-fought battle on the 7th June, 1859, between the French and Aus- trians, in which both sides suffered severely : the French commanded by Marshal Baraguay d'Hilliers, the Aus- trians by Benedek, forming the rear- guard of the army retreating after the disaster of Magenta. Cross the Muzza, one of the many canals of irrigation with which this district abounds. The approach to Lodi from Milan is somewhat singu- lar, from the height of causeway on which the road is carried, A fine avenue of plane-trees borders it on either side. 7 kil. Tavazzano Stat. 8 kil. Lodi Stat. {Inns: II Sole, good, civil people ; I'Europa ; i Tre Ke, very fair.) Omnibuses leave Lodi for Crema on the arrival of most of the trains. The original settlement of the citizens, Lodi Vecchio, is about 5 m. off*, to the westward. It was founded by the Boii, and, having been colonised by Cneius Pompeius Strabo, the father of Pompey the Grreat, the citizens called it JJaus Pompeia. Cicero calls it sim- ply Laus, The conversion of Laus into Lodi shows how, by the employ- ment of the oblique cases, the Latin language was corrupted into the modern dialect. The men of Lodi were the great and constant rivals of the Milanese, who, in 1111, entirely destroyed the city. "The animosity between Milan and Lodi was of very old standing. It originated, according to Arnulf, in the resistance made by the inhabitants of the latter city to an attempt made by Archbishop Eribert to force a bishop of his own nomination upon them. The bloodshed, plunder, and conflagrations which had ensued would, he says, fill a volume if they Avere related at length." — Kallam, 248 Route 24. — Lodu Sect. IIL After the destruction of Milan, the Lodigiani, who had fled to Pizzighet- tone, came (1158) before Barbarossa, as suppHants, weeping and bearing crosses, and requesting a home ; and accordingly he gave them a village then called Monteguizone, granting them investiture by the delivery of a banner. The spot is said to have been fixed upon by Frederick himself; it was defended by the river Adda, and Hes in a tract of exuberant fertility: thus arose the modern city, containing now up- wards of 18,000 Inhab. The inhabitants of Lodi removed from their ancient city the relics of their patron saint, Bassianus, which they deposited in the Duomo, a fine Lombard building. The porch is sup- ported by fine griffins ; perhaps not only the design, but even a part of the materials, may have been brought from old Lodi. This is certainly the case with respect to a bas-relief represent- ing the Last Supper, a remarkable mo- nument of early Cliristian art, anterior to the settlement of the Lombards. The eyes are of enamel. Some fine paintings in tempera are on the walls near the high altar. They are by Guglielmo and Alberto di Lodi, and were covered up till within the last few years. The ch. of the Incoronatay by Bra- mante, begun in 1476, is a very beauti- ful specimen of the Renaissance. It is an octagon, and contains some good paintings of Calisto da Lodi, an imi- tator of Titian. The subjects are taken from the events of the Passion of our Lord, the Life of St. John the Baptist, and the Life of the Yirgin : the heads have great beauty. It is said that some of the pictures were executed by Titian, who, passing through Lodi, gave this help to his pupil. The Piazza, surrounded by arches, is fine of its kind. The entrance of the convent formerly belonging to the Padri delV Oratorio is formed by an arch said to have been brought from old Lodi. On it is inscribed Lgno- raydicB et Paupertati : neither the form of thp letters nor the natvu'e of the inscription sanctions its supposed anti- quity. The terrible passage of the bridge of Lodi, and the heroic conduct of the young Buonaparte at the head of his grenadiers. May 10th, 1796, need no commemoration. The bridge is on the eastern side of the city, over the Adda. The Lodi district is the chief country for the production of the cheese usually called Parmesan. In the country it is called Grana. The territory in w^hich the cheese is produced is 20 m. wide from Pavia to Milan and Lodi, and double that in length from Abbi- ategrasso, near the Ticino, to Codogno, near the confluence of the Adda and Po. The cows set apart for this pro- duction are about 80,000. It is seldom found profitable to rear them in the country; they come from the Swiss cantons of Unterwald, Uri, Zug, Lu.- zern, and Schweitz. They are brought at the age of from 3 to 4 years, between October and March, and give milk abundantly for about 7 years. More than 12,000 are imported every year; the price of each is from 14Z. to 18Z., sometimes as high as 20Z. After 7 yrs. they are sold, when worn out. The cheese produced from a cow is, on an average, 340 lbs. avoirdupois in the coiu*se of a year, which is weighed after 6 months. It is sold twice a year ; that called la Sorte Maggenga (May lot) is that which is made between St. George's day and St. Michael's, 24th April to 29th Sept. ; the other is called la Sorte Invernenga (the winter lot), which is made between the 29th Sept. and the 24th April. The average price is from 92 to 100 fr. (^. e. from U. 13;?. Sd. to U.) for 171 lbs. avoirdupois. The total production of the year will be 27,568,500 lbs. avoirdupois. After two or three years' seasoning in the ware- houses of the merchants, which are prin- cipally at Codogno, province of Lodi, and Corsico, province of Milan, the weight of the cheese is diminished 5 per cent. About the half comprehends two inferior sorts. The first of these is cheese of a bad quality ; the other inferior sort, although of a good qua- LOMBARDY. Route 25. — Milan to Mantua, 249 lity, from some defect in the shape camiot be exported, and is consumed in the country. The whole of the better kind is sent out of the country. Tlie quantity exported to G-reat Bri- tain is comparatively small. Tlirec kinds of pastm-e are used for the cows ; viz. the marcito (or con- stantly flooded meadow-land) ; irri- gator to stabile (the merely irrigated grounds) ; erhatico (rotative meadow- grounds). The marcito consists in dividing the land into many smalL parallelograms, sensibly inchned to one side. The water wliich fills the little canals amongst them overflow's these spots slowly ; it spreads like a veil over these spaces, and by the incli- nation of the ground falls again into the opposite canal. From this it is diff"used over other parts, so that the whole meadow country is continually flooded ; from which there is main- tained a rapid and continual vegeta- tion in the heats of summer and the frosts of winter ; at the same time no marshy weeds prevail. The grass is cut five times a year; and in some parts below Milan, in the meadows (along the Yettabbia), even nine times. When cut on the 31st May it is 32 inches high ; at every subsequent cutting it is less — the second 10, the third 8, the fourth Q\ &c. It is quite tasteless and insipid, and horses refuse to eat it, which proves the opi- nion of many strangers to be errone- ous, who attribute the fine taste of the cheese to the flavour of the pasture. The marciti meadows require a con- stant supply of water ; when there is not enough, the simple irrigating sys- tem is adopted ; the grounds are then watered at the interval of several days. The erhatico^ or rotation meadow, alter- nates with the cultivation of rice, grain, flax, Indian corn, and oats. 12 kil. Secugnago Stat. 7 kil. Casal Fusterlengo Stat.y a good-sized town. 4 kil. Codogno Stat., from which rlys. of 27 kil. to Cremona, of 77 to Brescia, and of 67 to Pavia. 5 kil. farther to S, Stefano Stat. Shortly afterwards the Po is crossed by a bridge connected by an island in the centre of the stream, a short dis- tance from which brings us to 9 kil. PiACENZA Stat., near the Porta di Podesta (see Ete. 40). BOUTE 25. MILAN TO MANTUA, BY CREMONA. Milan to Cremona, 6 1 ^ m. Cremona to Mantua, 48 m. There are two lines of rail to Cre- mona, one by Treviglio, Caravagglo, and Crema, in 2j hrs. ; the second b^' Codogno, and PizziglietLone, and from there to Cremona by the rly. from Pavia. Milan to Cremona, hg Treviglio. Kil. Kil. Milan to Castelleone . . . 6A Treviglio (Rte. 27). 32 Soresina . . . . 12 Caravagglo ... 39 Casalbuttano , . 81 Casaletto Vaprio . 48 Olraenetta . . . 87 Crema 55 Cremona . . . . 108 108 kil. = 67 m. The route as far as Treviglio is described at p. 257, from w^hich the rly. follows nearly the former post-road as far as 7 kil. Caravaggio stat., 3 m. from Treviglio, a town of about 6000 Inhab. In the principal ch., dedicated to S. Rusticus, with a brick Lombard fagade and high bell-tower, are some paint- ings by Campi : near the town is the sanctuaiy of the Madonna, built in 1575 from the designs of Pellegrini. The name of this town is more gene- rally known from the two painters, both called *' da Caravaggio," who were born here in 1495 and 1569 — Polidoro Caldara, the scholar of Raphael, and Michel Angelo Merigi, who has some- M 3 250 Boute 25. — Milan to Mantua. Sect. ]II, ti.ries been compared to the great Michael Angelo. Diligence to Chiari. 9 kil. Casaletto Vajprio Stat. 7 Crema Stat., a town of 10,000 Inhab., on the rt. bank of the Serio, in a very rich agricultural district, half- way between Lodi and the Adda, and Soncino on the Oglio, to both of which there are good roads and conveyances. The principal church, Santa Maria delle Croce, is a handsome brick edifice, erected by Battagli of Lodi, at the close of the 15th centy. ; it is of circular form, with 6 projections for entrances ; each of the latter covered by By z ratine domes. The rly. follows the Sirio to 10 kil. Castelleone Stat. 7 kil. Soresina Stat.,fvom wliich the line runs to 9 kil. CasaJhuttano, on the Canal or Naviglio di Crema, a derivation from the Oglio near Calcio, for purposes of irrigation. The rly. crossing to 6 kil. Olmenetta Stat., and from there through a highly irrigated dis- trict to 11 kil. Cremona Stat. The second line of rly., shorter by nearly 10 m., to Cremona ; but as by it the tourist will be able to visit Lodi and Pizzighettone, it offers more interest ; proceeding as described in Route 24, as far as Codogno, where the line from Pavia to Cremona and Brescia crosses. Melegnano Stat. Lodi Stat. Casal Pusterlengo Stat. Codogno Stat., remarkable as a great cheese-mart ; from here the line traverses the country called the Gera or Ghiara d' Adda which is hereabouts traditionally supposed to have been once covered by a lake, called the Lago G-erondo,and dried up, partly by drain- age, and partly by evaporation. There is much in the aspect of the country to confirm this opinion. 8 kil. Pizzighettone Stat. (Pop. 4000), once a fortress of importance. It was ori- ginally built by the people of Cremona in 1125 as a point of defence against the Milanese. Here Francis I. was de- tained after the battle of Pavia, The See Rte. 24. fortifications still look strong, though they have been partially dismantled. The place offers no object of interest, except some frescoes by Camjpi in the principal church. The Adda, which runs through the town, is here a fine rapid stream. The road from here runs parallel to the Adda, at some distance on rt. to 9 kil. Aqua Negra Stat, a small place, where the Cremonese sustained a signal defeat in 1166. 5 kil. Cava Tigozzi Stat., about 1 m. from the Po and 3 from Cremona. 5 kil. Cremona Stat. {Inns : none very good. The Sole d'Oro the best; the Italia, decent and clean. — C. £^ N., Mag, 1864.) Rlwy. to Pavia in 2^ hrs. ; to Brescia in l^-. Diligences to Parma, in 7 hrs. ; to Piacenza, and to Mantua until the rlwy. has been opened. Cremona ran the same course, and underwent the same vicissitudes, which befel most of the principal cities of Italy during the middle ages. Cap- tured and destroyed by the northern barbarians in the 5th centy., it remained in a state of abandonment till the 7th, when, at the command of the Lombard king, Agilulfus, it was rebuilt. During the nominal rule of the Grerman em- perors, and the anarchy which ensued, Cremona obtained municipal rights. No sooner were the Cremonese inde- pendent than, like the other enfran- chised towns of Italy, they quarrelled with their neighbours. Cremona was always at war either with Crema, Brescia, or Piacenza — but especially with Milan. When Frederick Barba- rossa vented his wrath on Milan, the Cremonese aided him in the subversion of their ancient rival, and in return ob- tained a new charter. But internal dis- orders were now added to foreign wars. The nobles quarrelled ; Guelph and Grhibelline factions fought in the streets. In the latter half of the 13th centy., Cremona, in common with *many other cities of Italy, had recourse to the singular expedient of calling in a Dictator, under the name of Podesta, who was never to be a native, that he LOMBARDY. Route 25.' — Cremona: History, 261 might be entirely imconnected witli any of the various parties wliom lie had to control. The Podcsta was so far of use that he jDreserved internal peace. But, after a time, an end was put to this anomalous, though bene- ficial domination, and a republican form of government was established. So much disorder, however, was the consequence, that the people, wearied with the strife of their rulers, again called out for a chief. The republican party were compelled to withdraw, but in strength enough to return to the charge. Civil war thinned the popu- lation, and exhausted the resoui'ces, of this unfortunate district. The Em- peror Henry YII., who came into Italy to vindicate the imperial authority, completed the ruin of Cremona when he attacked it in 1312 ; and in 1322 Galeazzo Yisconti had little difficulty in avenging the former injmies of Milan by taking possession of Cremona, and incorporating it with the duchy of that city. It is now a tliriving place, containing about 37,000 Inhab. It has a good trade, and a fair is held here about the end of September, a time when the noncommercial traveller will do well to keep away. Cremona was once celebrated for the manufacture of musical instruments. The business was hereditary in families : and the remote ancestors of Amati^ the most renowned of these modern makers who flourished 1704-1739, had supphed Charles IX. of France with excellent lutes and vioUns. The instruments of the last Amati are yet in great re- pute, and fetch high prices. He was succeeded in reputation by Stradivarius and Guarnieri ; at present the instru- ments made here have no pecuUar excellence. The public works of Cremona were undertaken in the short intervals of tranquiUity wliich that city enjoyed. In 1107, after a sharp struggle with Brescia, the Cremonese began their Cathedral, which, however, was not consecrated till 1190, by which time the nave and the aisles were completed. Little more was done till after Cremona had become united to the duchy of Milan. In 1342 the transepts were com- menced, but the choir was not finished till 1479. The fa9ade was begun in 1274, continued in 1491, ornamented in 1525, and terminated in 1606. The various times at which the fabric was constructed sufficiently account for tho different styles of its architecture. In the front, which is of marble, the Lombard predominates, and the piUars of the porch rest upon the usual griffonised lions, of which one grasps the serpent, the other an animal which holds a bird between its paws. The zodiac is over the door, and Count Yon Hammer Piu^gstall has made good use of it in one of his treatises upon the Mithraic mysteries. The noble rose-window, surrounded by a rich and delicately carved vine-leaf moulding, was built by Giacinto Po^ rata of Como in 1274. Other parts of the exterior are of moulded brick, and worked with much beauty. The front of the N. transept, which is entered by a porch supported by lions, is a fine specimen of the pointed style. It has three good rose-win- dows. The interior, unusually lofty for its width, is one mass of colour- ing and gilding. Lanzi considers this interior as rivaUing the Sixtine Chapel, not, of coin-se, as to the merit of the paintings, but in its pic- torial magnificence. The frescoes in the nave occur in the following order, extending to the end of the choir : — On the 1. 8 paintings representing events in the history of the Yirgin by B. JBocaccino ; next 2 of the Adora- tion of the Magi by Bemho, signed and dated 1451 ; beyond the organ the Flight into Egypt, and the Massacre of the Innocents, by Altohello di Melone^ dated 1 517 ; followed by Christ dis- puting with the Doctors, by Bocaccino, probably the best of the series. On the opposite side of the ch., and next the door, is the Last Supper, with four scenes of the Passion of our Lord, by Altohello ; the two next, Christ bound, and before Pilate, by C. Moretti, fol- lowed by the Saviour shown to the 252 Route 25. — Cremona : Cathedral. Sect. III. People, by Romanino : the last three, and the great subject of the Crucifixion, at the end, are by JPordenone. The frescoes on either side of the principal entrance, representing a Dead Clmst and the Mg^ries, are by the same painter ; the Resurrection, by Getti ; the vault of the choir is painted by Bocaccino. In the 1st chapel on thert. is a Madonna and Cliild, by Fordeoione, surrounded by Saints, and the portrait of the Donatorio, one of the Schizzi fa- mily. The painting over the high altar is the last work of Gatti (il Sojaro), the Assumption of the Virgin. It is said that, being rendered infirm by age, he added the last touches to the painting with his left hand. It was imfinished at the time of his deatli, and it was completed by Sommac- chino of Bologna. Four large frescoes liave been lately added by Diotti, a living artist. " The southern transept has frescoes of subjects from the Old Testament, attributed to Giorgio Cas- selli, and said to have been executed about the year 1383 ; they are more curious than fine in art, but interesting, from the fact of their having lasted so well, especially considering the damp- ness of the situation. The intarsiatura^ or inlaid work of the stalls of the choir (1489-90), by GiovarC Maria JPlatina^ is very elaborate. The pulpit is deco- rated with bas-reliefs representing the Massacre of the Innocents, by Amadeo. There are some good specimens of mediaeval sculpture in the chapels of San Nicolo, of San Pietro, and San Marcellino. In the transept is a sin- gular ancient vessel, apparently of the 9th or 10th centy., ornamented at the 4 corners wdth wdnged and tailed monsters, in which, according to the sacristan, St. Albert was accustomed to knead bread for the poor. St. Albert was born at Castel Gualtieri in this neighbourhood; and, after filling the episcopal chair of Yercelh, was, in 1204, appointed patriarch of Jerusa- lem. He was the founder of the Car- melite Order, and distinguished for hu- mility and kindness to the poor. The Sacristy still contains a few curious articles, ancient crosses, and the like ; amongst others a large silver crucifix by Pozzi and Sacclii of Milan, made in 1475. Beneath the Duomo is a fine, though not very ancient crypt, with the tombs of the patron saints of the city. The bas-reliefs on the altar are by Amadeo. The BaUisterio^ octagonal in the plan, built, some say about the year 800, others a centy. later, is in a plain and simple Lombard style. It has, what is very rare in this class of edifices, a fine projecting porch, supported by lions. The windows, by wliich it is scantily hghted, might serve for a Norman castle. The walls within have two ranges of galleries with Lombard arches, and fragments of frescoes are seen in the gloom. In the centre is a noble font, hewn out of a single block of red Verona marble. By the side of the Duomo, connected by a line of loggie^ rises tJie great toiver^ which has ob- tained for Cremona its architectural celebrity. It was begun in 1283 ; in that year peace was made between Cre- mona, Milan, Piacenza, and Brescia ; and in celebration of this event this tower was undertaken at the common expense of the Guelphs, or partisans of the Pope, not only of Cremona, but of all northern Italy. It is said to have been carried up to where the square portion terminates in the space of two years. The Torazzo^ as it is called, is the highest of all the towers in the N. of Italy, "396 ft. 498 steps lead to its summit, from which the eye sm^veys the extensive plains of the Milanese, intersected by the Po, and distinguishes the Alps to the N. and the Apennines to the S.W. In 1518 the bells were cast that hang in this tower, at which time it may be concluded the octagonal cupola was added. In the third story is an enormous clock, put up in 1594. The custode of the Torazzo lives in it. The staircase is not in the best repair; but it can be ascended without difficulty. The ancient doggrel rhyme — " IJnus Petrus est in Rama^ Una ticrris in Cremonay" — LOMBARDY. Eoute 26, — Cremona : Churches, 253 is an illustration of the popular cele- brity of this campanile. It had once a chance of becoming even still more celebrated. In 1414 the Emperor Sigismund ancj the Pope visited Cre- mona, then subject to the usurped authority of Gabrino Fondulo. The Signore was cruel and treacherous, but wise and talented. Tlie sovereign and pontiff consulted with him ; and, by his advice, Constance was fixed upon as the place where the great council was to be held for the purpose of re- stormg the peace of Christendom ; and Sigismund, besides other marks of favour, gave to Gabrino the authority of a vicar of the empire in Cremona. Gabrino invited his illustrious guests to mount the Torazzo and enjoy the prospect, and he alone accompanied them. They all came down in safety ; but when Gabrino was brought to the scaffold at Milan in 1425, he said that only one thing in the course of his life did he regret — that he had not had quite courage enough to push Pope and Emperor over the battlements, in order that he might have profited by the confusion which such a catastrophe would have occasioned in Italy. Near the cathedral is what is called the Campo Sa7ito, though now used as a sacristy and the repository of the archives, and where the functionaries of the cathedral assemble. It con- tains a vault, to which is a descent by 14 steps ; in it is an exceedingly curious mosaic pavement, with alle- gorical figures representing a Cen- taur fighting against a figm^e repre- senting Cruelty, Faith and a figure kneeling before her, and Pity conquered by Impiety. It seems to be an early Cln-istian work of the middle ages. The place was evidently an ancient Christian cemetery, as appears not only from its name, but from the bones and the inscriptions found in it. There are some desecrated churches of interest : — S. Domenico, witli a hand- some facade, rose-window, and much ornamentation ; S, Luca, with a good cmquecento porch and circular bap- tistery. Cremona had many convents, almost all of which are demolished. The chui'ches are generally of dark red brick : those which have escaped demolition or modernisation are usually Gothic. Several of these edifices are represented in Mr. Gruner's work on the Brick and Terra-cotta Buildings of N. Italy. Santa Agata is one of these; and the architectural traveller will here find what we should call the earliest Nor- man capitals, from which spring the latest Gotliic arches. This church con- tains several excellent specimens of Giu- lio Campi ; one, the Martyrdom of Sta. Agata, dated 1537, has obtained high commendations from Yasari, usu- ally so sparing in his commendations of Lombard artists. Santa Margherita^ annexed to the episcopal seminary. At an earlier period it was a priory, and has much in- terest, as having been built under the directions of the celebrated Girolamo Yida. Yida employed Qiulio Campi to decorate the church with his paint- ings, of which there are many ; tlje best is the Ch'cumcision. San Nazaro. The cupola painted partly by Giulio Campi, and partly by Malosso from his designs. Over the high altar is a good picture by Alto- hello. Sanf Agostino, and San Giacomo in Breda, a fine Gothic church with some remarkablepaintings. — B. Bemho^ at the 4th altar, the marriage of Fran- cesco Aforza and Bianco Yisconti at S. Sigismundo. Next to this is PeruginOy the Yirgin and the two Saints, a pic- ture of great merit, dated 1490, carried off by the French, and restored in 1815.— G^. J3. Zupelli, the \ixgh\ and Child in a beautiful landscape. — Ma- lossOy a Deposition ; the Temptation of St. Anthony. — Masserotti, St. Augus- tine, and personifications of the Orders supposed to have arisen out of the rules constituted by the Saiut. 254 Boute 25 ^'•^ Cremona : Churches; Palaces, Sect. III. San GiorgiOy more generally known as S. Pietro, a sumptuous building with numerous paintings. — Campi and JErmenegildo da Lodi, the Clii'istian Virtues in the vaulting of the nave. — A, Campif a Holy Family, the Infant playing with a Bird, in the 3rd chapel on 1. — The painting over the high altar : the Virgin and Child siu'rounded by Saints, dated 1527 ; it was originally painted for the Servites in the sup- pressed church of San Vittore. The price for which Campi stipulated was 250 Milanese lire^ and a mass per diem during seven months. — Ber- nardino Gatti, or Sojaro^ a Na- tivity; the main idea taken from the celebrated Notte of Correggio, retain- ing nearly the whole general composi- tion, but illuminated by the light of day. There is a large painting of the Murder of St. Thomas a Becket at Canterbury, in the N. transept. The Palazzo JPublicOf or Palazzo Municipale a rehc of ancient Cremona, was begun in 1206, and is supported by lofty arches. Two towers are an- nexed to the building. The ancient gates of brass of the great hall on the first floor are said to have been put up in 1245, in the expectation of a visit from the Pope and the Em- peror. The exterior has lost much of its character, owing to repairs. The interior, now used for the Town Sally contains several paintings. — Grazio CossagliOy the Descent of the Manna, dated 1597. — A. Camjpi^ the Visitation. B. Campiy the Saviour with the Apos- tles, and the martyrdom of St. Law- rence. — MolossiOy the Protectors of the City, Saints Himerius and Homobonus. In the room next the great haU is a chimney-piece of alabaster, brought from the Raimondi Palace, sculptured in Arabesque style by Pedoni, in 1502, in which the artist has introduced a portrait of Marshal Trivulzio: it is much praised by Cicognara. Near this Palazzo is another {Falazzo dei Jurisconsults) and better example of the ItaHan- Gothic apphed to civil purposes, in which the Gronfalonieri of the different quarters used to hold their sittings. It is now a boys' school. It is built of finely moulded brick, and dates from 1292. There are many private residences in Cremona ; some of the older ones are fair specimens of the Cinquecento style. Such is the Falazzo San Secundo : the sculptures on the exterior are by Ber- nardo Sacchi, The Palazzo Raimondi is by Pedoni ; the pilasters are of a most fanciful style, and adorned with ara- besques. There are some tolerably good col- lections of pictures at Cremona. Museo Ala Ponzoni, removed to the Palazzo Reale, consists of numerous paintings, amongst others a fine Man- tegna^ 15,000 medals, bronzes, local antiquities, and objects of natural his- tory. It was left by the owners to the Emperor of Austria, then sovereign of Lombardy. Marchese Pallavicini, a Presentation by Bernardino Campi; an excellent library and some curious manuscripts. Count Schizzi, many specimens of the Cremonese school. B. Gampi^ a Na- tivity, considered as one of his best works. The district round Cremona produces flax of a superior quality. Numerous remains of ancient castles are scattered over it. DiHgences run from Cremona to Mantua, Parma, and Piacenza, Ely. to Pavia and Brescia, and in progress to Mantua. A quarter of an hour's drive beyond the Porta Romana of Cremona, on the Mantuan side, but off" the road, is the noble church of San Sigismondo. It was in this church that Erancesco Sforza married Beatrice, the only child of Eilippo Maria Visconti (Oct. 25, 1441) ; and thus, after the death of his father-in-law, became the founder of the new dynasty. Cremona was the dowry of the bride ; and Erancesco, as a token of afiection both to her and to the city, rebuilt the church as it now stands. It consists of a single nave with twelve chapels, and is fuU of the works of native artists. — A. Campi, the Decolla- tion of St. John the Baptist. The vault- LOMBARDY. Route 25. — Cremona to Mantua, 255 ing of the chapel in which this picture is placed, as welf as the paintings of SS. John the Baptist, Philip, and James, are all by Campi, and he claims them by an inscription dated 1577. —Bernardino Campi^ St. Phihp and St. James. The vaulting is by liim : the chapel was finished by Malosso, — G-iidio Campi, an interesting picture for its portraits, over the high altar ; the Virgin and Child, and Francesco Sforza and Bianca Maria Visconti presented to them by St. Sigis- mund with St. Chrysanthus by his side. The painter has introduced his own likeness and that of his mistress in the faces of the latter saint and of Santa Daria. Campi has subscribed his name and date, 1540. He was paid 200 scudi Woro for the work. The vaulting of the nave, representing the history of Jonah, is entirely covered with paintings, prin- cipally hj Bernardino Galti: the smaller ornaments, angels, foliage, and the like, by him, are graceful and beautiful. — By Camillo Boccaccino are the paintings in the tribune and round the high altar. Of these Lanzi says, '' the finest are the four Evangelists ; three are seated ; St. John is standing, his figure tlirown backwards, as if by a movement of sur- prise, and skilful in the drawing and perspective. It seems strange that so young a man as Camillo, and one who never frequented the school of Cor- reggio, should so well have caught his style : this work, which is a model in perspective and the optical delusion of efiect, was finished in 1537. The two side pictures are also much-esteemed works of Camillo. One represents the EesmTcction of Lazarus ; the other, the Woman taken in Adultery : both are surrounded by an elegant frieze, in which the angels sporting with a cro- zier and other sacred emblems are ad- mirable for their life and grace. " The church of St. Sigismund is literally covered with the works of the brothers Campi; hai'dly a square inch has been left vacant. These frescoes, bearing date many of them 1566-77, are all vigorous and brilliant, and are perhaps, on the whole, some of the best that covild be adduced in favour of the material. Among other colours, a green of an emerald kind, and a most vivid blue, I have never before seen equally well preserved ; they are espe- cially brilhant here in an Ascension by Bernardino Gatto, called il Sojaro^ a pupil of Correggio. Probably this church was built of better materials and on a drier soil, as the walls with their decorations are in perfect preser- vation down to the very pavement." — /S. A. Hart, B,A. 1 post Cigognolo. Near this place is an ancient castle, modernised, but still a fine object. Pass Villa Pidnardi, which has a gallery and library, and gardens pos- sessing local celebrity. Sa7i Lorenzo. 1\ Piadena^ a small town. In Latin Blatina, and as such it has given its name to Bartolomeo Sacchi, the his- torian of the popes, this being his birthplace. [Here a road branches off on the rt. to Casal Maggiore.^ Pass Calvatone on 1., the site of Bedriacum, and near that of Vegra, destroyed by Attila. f BozzolOy a good -sized town of 5000 Inhab., anciently a small inde- pendent republic. San Martino delV Argine ; a mile beyond which cross the Oglio at Mccr- caria^ where is an ancient castle. 1-J Castellucchio, 2 m.; after passing which, and about 7 m. from Mantua, we reach Le Grrazie. Here is the ch. of Sta. Maria delle Grazie, consecrated in 1406, and built by Francesco Gonzaga, Lord of Mantua, as the sanctuary of a supposed miraculous painting of the Madonna, which had previously been venerated in a small church situated upon the bank of the adjoining marshy lake. The chief votaries of this sacred object were the boatmen of the lake. But in 1399 Gonzaga addressed his vows to the image, praying that the Virgin would intercede for the de- liverance of Mantua from the pesti- lence which then desolated Italy, and the result was the erection of this church, together with the now sup- pressed monastery, of which only a 256 Route 25. — Cremona to Mantua, Sect. III. small portion remains, tenanted by the two chaplains by whom divine ser- vice is performed. The architecture is good Italian- Grothic ; the chm'ch con- tains a strange array of votive images arranged on each side of the nave above the arches, upon columns richly gilt and carved. They are as large as, and coloured to Hfe, in every kind of cos- tume, representing the individuals whose gratitude is commemorated in the verses beneath. Here may be seen the Emperor Charles Y., Federigo Gon- zaga. Pope Pius II., the Connetable de Bourbon, and a host of other cele- brities. Others represent the trials and perils from which the votaries have been delivered, torture, anguish, death. All testify theu' gratitude to the Virgin for the help they have ob- tained through her intercession. The choir is painted by Lattanzio Gamhara^ of Brescia, and there are also several curious paintings in the nume- rous side chapels. There are also some interesting sepulchral monuments. One of the most remarkable is that of Bal- tassare Castiglione (ob. 1529), the cele- brated author of the * Cortigiano :' the epitaph was vn-itten by Cardinal Bembo, and the monument designed by GiuUo Romano. The mausoleum, is simple and noble — a plain sarcophagus, sur- mounted by a statue of our Lord. Bal- tassare's wife, Ippolita Torelli, had pre- viously been buried here ; a touching epitaph declares her beauty and virtues. Camillo, their son, lies in the same chapel. The supposed miraculous pic- ture of the Vu^gin is an Italian paint- ing, apparently not older than the 15th century. A long dark cloister, much dilapidated, leads to the church. It is still annually visited by large numbers of pilgrims, it looks deserted and de- Curtatone^ on the Lago Superiore, formed by tlie widening of the Mincio. Here was fought, on the 29th May, 1848, a very sanguinary action between the Austrians and theTuscan auxiliaries of Carlo Alberto, the latter composed chiefly of volunteers, who defended themselves heroically against a superior force before retreating. In this battle the students of the university of Pisa took a distinguished part. The tract around Mantua is called the Serraglio^ from the ancient wails bviilt to defend the city against the tyrant Eccelino da Romano. The country is very fertile, but not agree- able, from the marshes upon w^hich it borders. The gnats and mosquitoes are numerous and annoying in sununer. According to Donatus, Yirgil was born at Andes ; a local and very ancient tradition has identified this place with Pietole^ about 2 m. S. of Mantua, at the extremity of the Lago Inferiore, surrounded by woods and groves, in which the willow predominates. One of the Gonzagas built a palace here, to which he gave the name of the Vir- giliana. 1 Mantua (see Rte. 30). EOUTE 27. MILAN TO PESCHIEEA, BY TBEVIGLIO, BEEGAMO, BEESCIA, SOLFEEINO, ETC. — EAIL. KIL. KIL, Milan to Palazzolo . . . 74 LimitQ Stat. . . 11 Coccaglio . . . 82 Melzo . . , . 19 Ospedalletto . . 90 Cassano . . . 26 Brescia . . . 101 Treviglio . 32 Rezzato . . . 110 Verdello. . . 42 Ponte S. Marco . 118 Bergamo . . 52 Lonato . . . . 125 Seriate . . . 57 Desenzano . . . 129 Gorlago . . . 64 Peschlera . . . 144 Grumello . . 70 144 kil. = 89i Eng. m. The Ely., completed the whole way from Milan to Venice, offers the most convenient means of visiting Bergamo and Brescia, and the Alpine valleys, of considerable beauty and interest, that open into the plains of Lombardy between the lakes of Como LOMBARDY, Route 27. — Milan to Peschiera, 257 and Garda. Trains start 4 times a day from Milan, employing Ij to If hr. to Bergamo, 2*15 to Brescia ; and 3 trains in 3 hrs 20. m. to Peschiera, two of which continne onwards to Peschiera, Verona, and "Venice, reaching Venice, one (the express) in 7, the others in 9 and 10 lu^s. The Ely. follows in a straight line to the Adda, crossing the rich Lombard plains of meadow land, intersected with canals in ranges of poplars, pas- sing by 11 kil. Limito Stat., 8 kil. Melzo Stat., descending as it approaches the Adda, before reaching 7 kil. Cassatio Stat., a little way below the town, and crossing the river on a handsome bridge. Cassano is a large town full of silk- works. There are some ruins of an ancient castle. Cas- sano occupies an important military position on the Adda, at wiiich were fought two sanguinary battles, between Vendome and Prince Eugene, in 1705, and between Suwarrow and Moreau the 27th April, 1799. Crossing the plain of the Adda for 3 m., we arrive at 6 kil. Treviglio Stat., near the town of the same name of 6000 Inhab., a long, straggling place. The church is rather a remarkable building, and there are some good second-rate pictures in it. Railway for Caravaggio, Crema, and Cremona (see Rte. 25). [The more direct road to Brescia, along which a rly. is projected, is 7 kil. by Caravaggio (to which it is open) and Chiari, but, except its passing through a rich district, offers little interest, whilst the present line of rly. makes a considerable detour to include Bergamo, running through a more picturesque country. Mozzonicay a village near the river Serio. 13 m. Antignate. 5 m. on 1. is Romano, a large town in the midst of a fertile district ; it is the country of Rubini, the celebrated tenor, who built himself a handsome villa near it. Caleio, near the rt. bank of tl^e OgUo, once a small and independent commu- nity, and still a flom-ishing place ; on the opposite side of the river, on a rising ground, is Urago cV Oglio. 8 ni. Chiari, a town of 10,000 Inhab., whose ruined walls mark its ancient importance. Many Roman remains are found here. The principal church is a building of considerable size. Much trade is carried on, especially in silk. 2f m. beyond Chiari is Coceaglio, on the rly. between Bergamo and Brescia.] On leaving Treviglio the rly. runs parallel to the course of the Adda and Brembo, but at a distance of some miles, as far as Bergamo, through a country richly cultivated in mulberry plantations, especially on approaching the hilly region. 10 kil. Verdello Stat., near the large village of that name on the 1. From here the hills behind Bergamo, and the Alps beyond, come finely into view, the line ascending gradually to 10 kil. Bergamo Stat. Bergamo. {Inns: the only ones are in the lower town ; the Albergo d' Italia the best, very fair (JE. D, Fortescae, Oct., 1869) ; obliging people, and a good restaurant ; the trout of the Lakeof Iseo is particularly good ; there is an Inn, the Capello, near the Rly, Stat., with a good and much fre- quented restaurant.) There are public conveyances to Edolo and the Val Ca- monica on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, by Railway as far as Gor- lago, and then, ascending by the Val Cavallina, the road passes by Lovere and Breno, and reaches Edolo the same evening, returning on the inteiinediate days : or the tourist may go from Edolo to Brescia without returning to Ber- gamo, on Tues., Thurs., and Sat. ; to Zogno and Piazza in the Val Brem- bana daily. Rly to Lecco. (Rte. 20). Bergamo, which contains upwards of 38,000 Inhab., consists of an upper, the CiTTA, and a lower town, the latter called the Borgo of San Leonardo^ half a mile distant from each other. Travellers should not fail to visit the former, in which the most interesting 258 Route 21 ."^Bergamo. Sect. III. objects are contained, the lower town being the seat of business. The Cittli or old town of Bergamo, the Pergamus of ancient writers, stands upon a steep and lofty hill, one of the last spurs of the Alps towards the plain ; two roads lead to it from the lower town — that from the Prato. the Corso di Graribaldi, good and lined with trees, easy of access to carriages, and that from the Piazza de' Mercanti, but steeper and more direct, both uniting at the huge Doric Porta di S. Griacomo. The position of Bergamo caused it to be strongly fortified by the Yene- tians, the greater part of the walls, although dismantled, still standing, and now converted into beautiful boule- vards, commanding views of extraordi- nary beauty and extent ; the walk near the Porta S. Giacomo on the S. side of the town is particularly interesting in this respect, extending to the Alps and Apennines, over the plains of Lom- bardy, in which the steeples of Milan, Monza, and Cremona are conspicu- ous objects : there are two principal gates — of S. Griacomo on the E., above which is the Rocca, now converted into a barrack ; and the Porta di S. Alessandro on the W., over wliicli rises the bastion once connected with the Castello, and wliich, commanding the town, was included in its outworks. The houses of the Citta are solid and lofty : narrow streets and narrower vicoli, the sides often joined together by arches. In every part of the Citta are vestiges of the middle ages — pointed archways, courts surrounded by ar- cades upon massive columns, seen in perspective through the gateways. The Citta is inhabited by the Bergamasc nobility, who keep themselves apart from the traders of the lower town. Amongst themselves they maintain the use of the Bergamasc dialect, the most inharmonious perhaps of north- ern Italy. Harlequin, according to the tradi- tional cast of the ancient Italian drama, was aBergamasc,and the personification of the manners, accent, and jargon of the inhabitants of the Val Brembana, The principal objects of interest in the upper town are included in a very limited space surrounding the great square, now Piazza €raribaldi, viz. the Palazzo Nuovo or delta JR,a' gione^ the JPalazzo Vecchio, and the Public Library ; the church of St a, Maria Maggiore and the Colleoni cJiajpel opening out of it; the Cathedral and the ch. of Santa Grata in one of the adjoining streets. A few hours will suffice to see everything here, in- cluding an excursion to the hill of the Castello, which no one fond of fine scenery should omit to visit ; all this may be done between the arrival and departure of two successive railway trains, by taking a carriage at the station. The Palazzo Nuovo or delta Hagione was erected fi'om the designs of Sca- mozzi, and has never been finished, the only parts completed being the Doric portico and the left wing, on the front of which is a bust of B. Colleoni ; this palace is now occupied by the municipal authorities and offices, and forms one side of the Piazza ; opposite to it stands the Palazzo Vecchio, or BrO' letto, resting upon 3 lofty Gothic arches, with a projecting ringJiiera, The capitals of the pillars which sup- port it have cm-ious Lombard sculp- tures ; in front of it has been placed a statue of Tasso, whom Bergamo claims for one of its citizens, as, although born elsewhere (Sorrento), his father was a native of this town, and compelled by proscription to leave it. The Public Library fills the apartment on the first floor of the P. Vecchio j passing under one of its arches, we find ourselves in front of the ch. of Santa MaHa Mag- giore and the fine facade of the Colleoni chapel annexed to it. Ch, ofSta. Maria Maggiore. A por- tion of it is in the early Lombard style, others more recent ; the more ancient portion dates from 1134: the N. part was erected in 1360 by Giovanni di Cam* peUo : it is of black and white mar- ble, The southern porch, elaborately LoMBARDY. Route 27. — Bergamo ; S. Maria Maggiore. 259 worked, is siu'moimted by a turret con- taining a statue of a saint, whilst over the principal entrance is a statue of King Lupus, who in the middle ages enjoyed a great reputation at Bergamo. The interior of Sta. Maria Maggiore is rich in stucco decorations and paintings ; the cupola in the form of an elongated octagon ; the tribune and transepts supported on high Italo- Gothic arches. The only sepulchral moniunent worth noticing is that of an Ai'chbishop de Longis (ob. 1317) in alabaster; a monument by the eminent Swiss sculptor Vela has been recently erected here to the celebrated composer Donizetti, a Bergamasc. Opposite to it is that of his master, Mayr. To thert. of the small N, doorway, upon the outer circular projection of a chapel, are remains of old frescoes of the Lombard school, some supposed to be as early as the 14th centy. The carved stalls of the choir and screen are amongst the finest specimens of wood-carving in Italy, probably by Stefano da Ber- gamo^ the same who executed those exquisite ones after the designs of Baphaei in the church of S. Pietro at Perugia; the tarsia-work, also good, is by Fra Damiano, representing Scripture subjects. There is a good painting of Our Lord Risen, by Antonio Rosselli. The choir -books contam fine illuminated initials. In the sacristy is preserved a good deal of ancient tapestry ; and in a room ofi" it an Arbor Yitse in fresco, bearing the date of 1347. The sacristy, an octangular building, erected, as appears from the inscription, in 1430, is among the earhest examples of the introduction of the Roman or classical style in juxtaposition with Gothic. The dado has pointed arches, but the two upper stories are Compo- site, accm'ately worked. The campanile, which is upwards of 300 ft. in height, is one of the towers so conspicuous in the view of the Cittct. Adjoining Sta. Maria Maggiore, and opening into it, is the Capella CoUeoni, the sepulchral chapel of Bartolommeo Col- leoni, the celebrated coudottiere of the I5th centy. ; the facade, which has lately been restored, is very beautiful, orna- mented with difierent coloured marbles, most elaborately worked; in two round spaces are busts of Julius Csesar and Augustus, with their pagan designation of Divus, strange ornaments for a Chi*istian edifice ; the bronze doors are modern ; the windows are divided by four columns and two candelabra stems, with varied capitals and arabesques, placed so close to each other that the apertures for light are narrower than the diameter of these columns. The interior of the Colleoni chapel has been painted chiefly by Tiepolo ; there is a picture by D. Crespi of one of Colleoni' s battles, and a Madonna with the infant Saviour, St. John, and St. Joseph, by Angelica Kauff- man, but the principal ornament is the sepulchral monument of the foun- der (who died in 1475) by two almost unknown artists, Sisto and Leonudo, The bas-reliefs of Christ led to Mount Calvary, the Crucifixion and Entomb- ment, and of the Nativity, Epiphany, and Annunciation, are very good; upon the urn above stands the gilt equestrian statue of the great Coudot- tiere. The tomb of Medea Colleoni, the child of Bartolommeo, " one of the most charming works of its kind in Italy," which formerly stood in the ch. of Basella on the Serio, by Amadeo, was removed in the last centy. to her father's chapel; several branches of the Colleoni family still exist in the province of Brescia, collaterally de- scended from Bartolommeo, whose principal possessions were situated on the Serio, near Malpaga, where he, the last of the great Italian leaders of the troubled period, retired in his older days in almost regal splen- dour. Along the lower line of the windows outside this chapel is a series of small bas-reliefs of the Renaissance period ; 3 representing the labours of Hercules, the others Scriptural subjects relative to our first fathers — the Sacri- fice of Isaac, &c. The Duomo has a fine cupola, a conspicuous object j and the propor* 260 Route 27* — Bergamo : Cathedral ; Churches, Sect. III. tions and general character of tlie build- ing are good, but as a whole it has a bare, undecorated look. It was de- signed by Antonio Filarete, but has since been much altered. It contains several paintings of interest. At the back of the high altar is a Madonna, attributed to G. Bellini ; over that, in the N. transept, a series of bas-reliefs, by Fantoni (1625), one of which, the Deposition,singularlyresembles Rubens' well-known picture of the same subject : the wood-carvings of little children over these reliefs were executed by J. C. Sanza^ 1695. In the 3rd chapel on 1., a Virgin, with SS. Catherine of Alexandria and Jerome, by II Moretto da Brescia^ signed, and dated 1576. There was an ancient octagonal Bap- tistery, said to be as old as the 5th centy., with 8 slender wall- shafts on each side ; it has been replaced by a modern one imitated from it (1865). The ch. of Santa Grata has been newly gilt and decorated. The altar- piece, by Salmeggia^ 1623, represents the Yu'gin and several Saints, amongst them Santa Grata bearing the head of St. Alexander. This picture, con- sidered as the masterpiece of the artist, was carried off to Paris. There is some mosaic work in tliis elegant little building. San Spirito contains some paintings of interest. At the 4th altar on the 1. a Holy Family with Saints, by L. LottOj signed and dated 1521 ; 5th altar, an Ancona, in 10 compartments, by A. JPrevitale ; at the 1st altar on L, St. John between Saints, one of the finest works of JPrevitale ; and at the 2nd altar on the same side, an Ancona, in 10 compartments, by 'Borgognone. Other churches are Sant^ Andrea, — In the vaulting are frescoes by Pado- 'vanino — The Virgin and Saints, by il Moretto, Churcli of Sanf Alessandro in Colonna — St. John the Baptist, by the younger Palma. Church of San Bartolommeo — A Virgin ; one of the best works of L. Lotto. Church of San Michele al Pozzo — a Virgin and Child, \>j L. Ziotto, ! The view from the terrace of the Casa Terzi, one of the finest palaces in the upper city, is remarkable. There is a good public library in the Broletto ; and the Academia Carrera, with a collection of paint- ings, enriched by the late Count Lochias bequest of one half his gallery to his native town. Bergamo contains some private col- lections of paintings — the Museo Sopi, the Albani, Camozzi, and Verdoa Gal- leries. The situation of the upper town of Bergamo is remarkably fine. A walk of less than half an hour will take the traveller to the hill of the Castello W. of it, by the road emerging from the Porta di S. Alessandro ; the fort- ress which stood here is now in ruins, but the panoramic view from it will amply repay the trouble of the ex- cursion ; it embraces the course of the Brembo on the W., the plain of Milan, the Brianza, and the innumerable towers scattered over them, with the steeples of Milan, Monza, and, farther still, the Monte Rosa, and even Monte Viso, 152 m. off. The Apennines be- yond the Po are well defined in clear weather, with Crema and Cremona in the foreground. The lower town is the seat of busi- ness. In ordinary times it offers little to interest the traveller ; it consists of two principal streets, that by which it is entered from Milan, fi*om which another, in which are the hotels and principal shops, branches off to the Prato, a large open square, where the fair is held, and which contains the theatre, barracks, and the fine gate leading to Crema. An important fair is held here. It begins about the middle of August, and lasts a month> This mart, called the Fiera di Sanf Alessandro, which has been known to have been held since the 10th centy., is the Leipsic fair of northern Italy. It is not only a very large business, but also a great pleasure fair, to which the gentry of all the country about resort. LoMBAHDY. Route 27. — Bergamo : Neighbourhood. 2G1 Bergamo is celebrated in tlie annals of music by tlie number of good com- posers and performers which it has produced — amongst them Rubini (d. 1854) and Donizetti. Neighbourhood of Bet'gamo. The country around is one of the most renowned in Lombardy for its silk, the great source of the wealth of its landed proprietors. The soil is of the greatest fertihty, and is exceedingly well watered, tlie rivers Serio and JBrembo being the main trunks of utI- gation. Some pleasant excursions may be noticed. There are many fine feudal castles dotted about the country on all sides ; such as the Castello di Trezzo upon the Adda, about 12 m. by the road to the S.W. of Bergamo, and others to the eastward, near the lake Iseo. The church oiAlzano^ 4 m. from Bergamo to the N.E., at the opening into the plain of the Val Seriana, has some fail' paintings and sculptui'es : the Death of Peter Martyr, by Lor. Lotto, in the cli. itself; and in the sacristy some very fine sculptures in wood and intarsiatura of singular beauty by a family of wood-carvers named Fantoni. " About 8 m. to the N. of Bergamo is the church of San Tomaso in Limine, It stands alone on the brow of a hill, from whence there is a beautiful view. Its extreme age is obvious from its external appearance, but it is still in good preservation, for which it is indebted to the excellence of its con- struction. Ko record of the date of San Tomaso has come down to our time. The evidence of style, however, places it among the buildings of the 7th century, during which this part of Italy was at rest, and a great zeal for church-building prevailed. The plan is nearly identical with that of San Vitale at Ravenna, a rotunda crowned with a cupola. The cupola is not sup- ported by pendentives, but by the walls themselves, assisted by the lateral resistance of the arches of the wings. The pillars are stunted and thick, and theii* capitals exhibit the usual imagery of the Lombards : the manner of con- struction of the walls is in their style. The Lombards were fond of the cir- cular Or octagonal form, and employed it in their churches, as they did that of the Basihca. If the round form is to be adopted there can hardly be found a more graceful model than is afibrded by San Tomaso,''^ — G. Knight. Travellers by the Stelvio or Splugen roads, who wish to reach Venice with- out passing tln'ough Milan, may con- veniently take the carriage-road from Como to Lecco, which is heavy, and with long ascents and descents, but affords pleasmg scenery (See Rte. 19), and from the latter to Bergamo by rail. [A pleasant excursion may be made from Bergamo to the lake of Iseo. A good road to Sarnico, which is situated at the S. end of the lake where the Oglio leaves it, turns off from the Rly. Stat, at Grrumello, from which the distance to Sarnico is about 6 m. (Trains at 7,35 A.M. and 1.48 p.m. from Bergamo for Grrumello, from which an omnibus starts daily at 8.6 A.M. and 2.20 p.m. for Sarnico. Steamers from there to Iseo and Lovere.) At less than half- way, near where the rly. crosses the Cherio, Go7'lago is about a mile to the 1. of the road, which has a church containing some valuable paintings, and a saloon painted in fresco by Giulio Romano, and now used as a hay- loft. About 4 m. before reaching Sar- nico, on the rt. of the road, is the old castle of Calejpio, built in 1430, and finely placed on the steep banks of the Oglio. There is a poorish Inn — the Leone d^ Oro, kept by Antonio, a civil fellow — at Sarnico. The lake of Iseo presents some beautiful sceneiy. The " Monte dell' Isola" rises boldly from its surface. It is very deep, and abounds in fish. The vegetation of the shores is rich, and the olive- tree flourishes in the more smmy exposures. Many towers, castles, and villas arc dotted round its shores. The Villa Fenaroli, at Tavernola, on the "VV. shore, opposite to the Monte deir Isola, commands a fine prospect of the lake and of the small town of Iseo on the opposite shore. 262 Route 27. — Lake of tseo — Lovere* Sect. 111. The lake of Iseo (Lacus Sebinus) is the fourth in size of the subalpine lakes of Lombardy, occupying an area of 22 Eng. m. It has the same elon- gated form as those of Como and Grarda, and, like them, fills the bottom of a great trough or transverse valley. Its principal feeders are the rivers Bor- lezza and Ogho, that descend from the Alps through the Yal Camonica, and its only exit is by the Ogho at Sar- nico ; it is 700 ft. deep in some parts, and its surface is 680 ft. above the level of the sea; near its centre is an island, the largest of any in the ItaHan lakes, about 1^ m. long, with several villages, Siviano and Erza on the N.E. side, and Peschiera on the S.E. The climate of the shores of Iseo is nearly the same as that of the lakes of Como and Maggiore, but, from its greater elevation above the sea, of a more alpine character than that of the Lago di Garda. The town Iseo, on the site of the Eoman Sebum, has ex- tensive silk-works ; it is said to owe its name to a temple of Isis. It is about 6 miles by the footpath along the shore from Sarnico to Iseo, which is the principal port on the lake, and whence a steamer starts twice a day for Lovere, taking about 2 hrs. to run the distance. There is a tidy Inn at Iseo, by the water-side, the Alberto d' Italia ; Leone d* Oro^ tolerably clean and comfortable. At the foot of the mountain, on the other side of the lake nearly opposite to Iseo, is Fre- dore^ where there are some plantations of orange and lemon trees. Lovere may also be reached by a road which turns off to the 1., out of the high road at Albano, about 5 m. from Bergamo, and passes through the baths of Trescorre, where there is a villa of Count Oianforte^ and a chapel painted by Lorenzo Lotto. The principal ch. of Trescorre contains a good picture by Salmeggia. Hence the road runs up the Yal Cavallina by the side of tlie Cherio torrent, and along the W. shore of two small lakes, Spinone and Gajano. The distance from Bergamo to Lovere by this road is about 26 Eng. m. {Inn : il Canone d'Oro, poor.) Lovere is well known as the residence during several years of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, who thus describes it in a letter to Lady Bute, her daugh- ter, dated the 21st July, 1747 :— " I am now in a place the most beautifully romantic I ever saw in my life ; it is the Tunbridge of this part of the world, to which I was sent by the doctor's order, my ague often returning. I found a very good lodging, a great deal of good company, and a village in many respects resembhng Tunbridge Wells, not only in the quahty of the waters, which is the same, but in the manner of the buildings, most of the houses being separate at little distances, and all built on the sides of hills, which indeed are far different from those of Tunbridge, being six times as high : they are really vast rocks of different figui^es, covered with green moss or short grass, diversified by tufts of trees, little woods, and here and there vine- yards, but no other cultivation, except gardens like those on Richmond-hiU. — The fountain where we drink the waters rises between two hanging liiUs, and is overshadowed with large trees that give a freshness in the hottest time of the day." In a subsequent letter she describes part of her residence : — " I have been these six weeks, and still am, at my dairy-house, which joins to my garden. I believe I have already told you it is a long mile from the castle, wliich is situate in the midst of a very large village, once a considerable town, part of the walls still remaining, and has not vacant ground enough about it to make a garden, which is my greatest amusement. This spot of ground is so beautiful, I am afraid you will scarce credit the description, which, however, I can assure you shall be very literal, without any embellishment from imagination. It is on a bank, forming a kind of peninsula, raised from the river Ogho 50 ft., to wliich you may descend by easy stairs cut in the turf, and either take the air on the river, which is as large as the Thames at LOMBARDV, Houte 21 ,—Lovere, 263 Riclimond, or, by walking up an avenue 200 yards on the side of it, you find a wood of 100 acres, which was all ready cut into walks and ridings when I took it. I have only added 15 bowers, in different views, with seats of tui-f. They were easily made, here being a large quantity of underwood and a great number of wild vines, wliich twist to the top of the liighest trees, and from which they make a very good sort of wine they call brusco. I am now writmg to you in one of these arbours, wliich is so tliick-shaded the sun is not troublesome, even at noon. Another is on the side of the river, where I have made a camp-kitchen, that I may take the fish, dress and eat it immediately, and at the same time see the barks, which ascend or descend every day to or from Mantua, Guastalla, or Pont de Tie, all considerable towns. This wood is carpeted in their succeeding seasons with violets and strawberries, inhabited by a nation of nightingales, and filled with game of all kinds, excepting deer and wild boar, the first being unknown here, and not being large enough for the other." More recent travellers do not agree in Lady W. Montagu's enthusiastic description of Lovere, and suppose she must have mixed up in it that of some other sites on or about the lake of Iseo, as it conveys no idea of the present state of the localities. Still it is a delightful place, sur- rounded by verdant hiUs, with a magnificent prospect over the lake and the mountains of the Yal Camonica. The ch. of San Giovanni, crowning a rocky peninsula W. of Lovere, is a conspicuous and picturesque object, Lovere has two large churches with pictures, and a monument by Canova^ one of the repetitions of that of Vol- pato, erected by Count Tadini to his daughter, who was crushed by the fall of an arch. There is a museum in a large building, consisting of several indijfferent pictm'es ; the view from it over the lake is very fine. At some distance from Castro, about 2 m. to the S. of Lovere, on the shore of the lake, is a narrow abyss called the Orrido di Tinazzo, where the torrent precipates itself with a roaring noise. It is a very singular place. The road from Lovere to Bergamo is carried along it for several yards on arches ; the water below is out of sight. To the N.E. of Lovere is the Yal Camonica, tlirough which the Oglio flows, and along which there is a good road as far as Edolo, near the head of the valley, from which another made by the Austrians 5 or 6 years ago leads to Ponte di Legno, at the foot of Mt. Tonale. Public conveyances start every day at 11 from Lovere for Edolo, and at 4 a.m. for Bergamo. (See Handhooh of S. Germany^ Bte. 231.) The traveller who may not wish to return from Lovere to Bergamo will find a very* good road on the E. side of the lake, through the villages of Pisogne (Albergo dei Ghisoni), Sale, Marazzino (where there are some manufactures of cloths and blankets), and Sulzano, to Iseo, and which thence joins the old post-road from Bergamo, 3 m. before reaching Brescia.] BERGAMO TO BRESCIA. The distance from Bergamo to Bre- scia is 49 kil. through generally a fine country, crossing the several large water-courses descending from the Alps, which bring fertility with them to the plains at their base. 5 kil, from Bergamo the Serio is crossed, near the village of Seriate, with a large modem church. [A road branches off* from here on the 1., leading to the alpine Val Seriana, and another to the rt., to Martineligo and Eomano, passing by Maljpaffa^ cele* brated for its castle, built by Barto* lommeo Colleoni. " This castle, which can also be reached in an hour frdm Bergamo, will be well worthy of a visit, as there is perhaps no edifice of the kind which gives so complete an idea of the residence of a great Italian nobleman in the middle ages. Erected in the latter half of the 15th cent., it 264 Route 21 ,— Bergamo to Brescia* Sect. in. passed, after the founder's death, to one of his followers, a Martinengo, in whose family it remained until lately, when it was sold to a gentleman of Bergano, and now serves for farming purposes, the storing of agriculture produce, and the rearing of silkworms ; the castle remains to a great extent as when Colleoni died, and as it may be seen rejjresented in some of the frescoes on its walls. It consists of a quadrangular building, having a massive tower or keep at one of its angles, and is sur- rounded by a moat, one of the draw- bridges over which stillremains. Around the castle are the dwellings of the chief's retainers and dependants. The walls of tlie great court and the princi- pal apartments are covered with frescoes by Romanino and his scholar's, those of the master characterised by their rich colours and fecility of execution ; they represent the principal events in the life of the great Condottiere. In what was the Banqueting -hall are painted • — the Visit of Christian II., King of Denmark, in 1475, where Colleoni is seen distributing cloth to his followers; a Tournament, a Hnnting- scene, a Banquet, &c. ; all remarkable for the costumes of the period. On the outer walls in the Court, historical subjects, such as the Pope delivering the baton of command to C. ; an engagement with the Turks ; the Doge of Venice under the Portico of St. Mark appointing him Greneralissimo of the armies of the Kepublic. In the room in which Col- leoni is said to have died is a painting of the Virgin and his patron Saint in a niche or recess ; the singular Ar- moiries parlanies of the Colleoni family are profusely distributed amongst the pictorial decorations of this remark- able edifice."—^. IT. X., Oct. 1865. 1 J m. between Malpaga and Martinengo is a curious belfry, rich in architecture and sculpture, and the celebrated Ho- ionda of Ghisalha, one of the master- pieces of Cagnola. About 2 m. W. of Malpaga, on the other side of the Serio, is a chapel called La JBasella, formerly containing a masterpiece by ^w«c?eo, the sepulchral monument of Medea, only child of Bartolommeo Colleoni, which is now in the chapel of the family at Bergamo.] (See p. 261.) 5 kil. Seriate Stat. From this sta- tion we cross the plain between the declivities of the Alps and the small detached range of hills of Monticelli on rt. ; similar to that of Mont' Orfano between Como and Bergamo, and formed of the same conglomerate (p. 166) : there are some picturesque ruins on its E. extremity. 7i kil. Gorlago Stat., not far from the Cherio torrent, descending from the Val Cavallina, A road strikes ofi' here on the 1. up this valley to Lovere, at the N. extremity of the lake of Iseo, passing by the smaller ones of l^ndine or Sjpi- none, and Gajano. [The Val Cavallina is extremely beautiful; covered with villages, one of which is La Torre, the chief town in the valley, from Avhich pubUc convey- ances start twice a day for the station at Grorlago ; another is Trescorre, cele- brated for its hot-baths, in the Piazza of which is a marble group of Hygeia and an invalid, allegorical to the bene* fits derived from its mineral springs.- The hill near Gorlago, on which stands the Casa Carnuzzi, commands a mag- nificent view over the Alps and plains of Lombardy. The distance from Tres- corre to Lovere is about 15 m., and will require 4^ hrs. for the pedestrian.], 6 kil. Grumello Stat. From here the best road to the lake Iseo branches off* tc Sarnico at its S. extremity, which is 6' m. distant. An omnibus every day at 9 A.M. and 2.20 p.m. in correspondence with the steamer for Iseo and Lovere. From Grrumello the rly. runs in a more S. direction, crossing the rich plain of the OgHo. Before reaching the station at Palazzuolo the line crosses the latter river on a fine high bridge and viaduct, from which the view of the town at some distance on the rt., with the river flowing at the bottom of the valley far below, and of the high tower, which forms so conspicuous an object, is very fine. 4 kil. Falazzuolo {Stat). The town' LOMBAHDY. lioute*27, — Paldzziioto — Brescia. 265 stands on both sides of the river, which i*un8 in a depression below the surroimd- ihg country, and from its situation was dn important mihtary position in the wars of the Brescians and Bergamaschi; on both sides are considerable mediaeTal remains ; on the W. an old black castle, now built into a church, and on the E. an extensive fortress, upon which has been erected a very high modern bell-tower, siu'mounted by a statue of St. George, from which the view in- cludes Milan, Cremona, &c. Beyond Palazzuolo we re-enter on the great plain extending to Brescia, the road running at the base of the insulated ridge of hills of Cologne and Mont- orfano^ on the 1., at the S.E. extremity of which lies 8 kil. Coccaglio Stat. The moun- tain above it {Monte Orfano)^ detached like an island in the plain, on which there is a church, and higher up a con- Tent, commands a noble view. The tra- veller who can spare the time between 2 rly. trains will be well repaid for walking up to its summit by the splen- did panorama discovered from it. Movato, in the plain on 1., the birth- place of the painters il Moretto and Richino. 8 kil. OspedalettoStat. 11 kil. Brescia (Stat.) : outside the Porta San Nazzaro, on the S.W. side of the town. {Lms : Albergo d'ltalia ; very clean and comfortable —C. F., Oct., 1867. H. Eoyal. Tliis is a fine and flourisliing city, now con- taining 40,000 Inhab., and appearing very prosperous. ^^ Brescia Varmata^' has been anciently celebrated equally for the strength of her fortifications, the valour of her inhabitants, and the excellence of the arms and weapons here manufactured. The Brescians have not degenerated from their ancestors in bravery ; but the fortifications arc dismantled and the manufacture of fire- arms in the adjacent alpine valleys has almost ceased. — Brescia has 5 gates : 1, Porta di S. Giovanni, leading to Milan — 2, San Nazzaro, to the Kailway- station and Crema — 3, San Ales- sandro, to Cremona — 4, Torlunga, toj 2^, Ital^^lS69. Yerona and Mantua — 5, Porta Pile, to Yal Trompia and the other mountain valleys. — Brescia was anciently con- sidered as one of the most opulent cities of Lombardy, second only to Milan. But the capture of the city by Gaston de Foix, the "gentil Due de Nemours," the nephew of Louis XII. (1512), inflicted a blow upon its pros- perity from which it never recovered. When in pursuance of the League of Cambrai the Prench overran the Ve- netian states, Brescia fell like the rest of the Venetian possessions, but was recovered by the vigour of the Count Luigi Avogadro. The inhabitants de- tested the French, and the standard of St. Mark being hoisted the whole dis- trict was in a state of insurrection. The castle, however, was still held by the French, and Gaston de Foix marched against Brescia with an army of 12,000 men, the fiovr^r, says the * Loyal Ser- viteiu*,' of French chivahy. Amongst them was the " Chevaher sans peur et sans reproche," the celebrated Bayard, who, in the attack of the breach by which the French entered, received a wound which he thought to be mortal. The French poiu'ed in, and the city was taken by storm ; the Venetian troops made a desperate but ineffec- tual resistance in the " Piazza del Bro- letto" to wliich they retreated, and the inhabitants emulated the soldiers in valour. The city was given up to pil- lage, and the French, the "flower of chivalry," under the guidance of the "gentil" Gaston de Foix, truly termed by Sismondi the most ferocious of the chieftains who ever commanded an army, indulged during seven days in pillage, lust, and slaughter. The French boasted that 46,000 of the inhab. perished. The spirit of the warfare may be illustrated by two celebrated passages in the history of the siege of Brescia, — the escape of Tartaglia and ih.e gene- rosity of Bayard. Amongst the crowds who vainly sought refuge in the churches was a poor woman of the lowest class with a child in her arms. The French chivahy cut at mother and child, and me tioilte 27. -^Sfescia : Sistoricat Anecdotes. Sect, lit* the boy received in tlie arms of liis mother five sabre wounds; his skull was fractvired and his upper lip split. In spite of this treatment he Uved, yet the wound in his lip was so severe that he never fully recovered his speech ; hence he was called Tartaglia^ or the stutterer: but his memory has been preserved, not by the injuries which he shared with so many others, but by his talent as one of the greatest mathema" ticians of the 16tli centmy. With respect to Bayard, he was placed by 2 archers upon a door torn from its hinges, and carried to the best- looking house at hand, believed to be that of the Cigola family in the Giar- dini Pubhci, formerly the Mercato Vecchio. Its owner was " a rich gentle- man who had fled to a monastery ; but his wife and 2 fau' daughters remained at home, in the Lord's keeping, and were hid in a hayloft under the hay." The mother, when she heard the knock- ing at the wicket, opened it, " as await- ing the mercy of Grod with constancy;" and Bayard, notwithstanding his own great pain, observing her piteous agony, placed sentinels at the gate, and ordered them to prohibit all entrance, well knowing that his name was a defence. He then assured the noble lady of pro- tection, inquired into her condition, and, despatching some archers to her hus- band's relief, received him courteously, and intreated him to believe that he lodged none other than a friend. His wound confined him for 5 weeks, nor was it closed when he remounted his horse and rejoined the army. Before liis de- parture, the lady of the house, still con- sidering herself and her family as pri- soners, and her mansion and whole property as the lawful prize of her guest, yet perceiving his gentleness of demeanour, thought to prevail upon him to compound for a moderate ran- som, and having placed 2500 ducats in a casket, she besought his acceptance of it on her knees. Bayard raised her at the moment, seated her beside himself, and inquired the sum. He then assured her that if she had presented him with 100,000 crowns, they would not gratify him so much as the good cheer which he had tasted under her roof ; at first he refused to take them, but upon her earnestly pressing him, and seeing " that she made the present with her whole heart," he requested permission to bid adieu to her daughters. *' The damsels," says the ' Loyal Serviteur, " were exceedingly fair, virtuous, and well-trained, and had greatly solaced tlie good knight during his illness by then" choice singing, and playing on the lute and virginals, and their much- cunning needlework. When they en- tered the chamber, they thanked him with deep gratitude as the guardian of their honour; and the good knight, almost weeping at their gentleness and humiUty, answered : — ' Fair maidens, you are doing that which it is rather my part to do, to thank you for the good company which you have afibrded me, and for wliich I am greatly bound and obliged to you. You know that we knight-adventurers are ill provided with goodly toys for ladies' eyes, and for my part I am sorely grieved not to be better furnished, in order that I might ofier you some such as is my duty. But your lady mother here has given me 2500 ducats, which He on that table, and I present each of you with 1000 in aid of your marriage portions ; for my recompence I ask no more than that you will be pleased to pray God for my welfare.' So he put the ducats into their aprons, whether they would or no : then turning to the lady of the house, he said, * These remaining 500 ducats I take, madam, to my own use ; and I request you to distribute them among the poor nuns who have been pillaged, and with whose necessities no one can be better acquainted than your- self: and herewith I take my leave!' After having dined, as he quitted his chamber to take horse, the two fair damsels met him, each bearing a little offering which she had worked during his illness ; one consisted of 2 rich brace- lets woven with marvellous delicacy from her own beauteous hair, and fine gold and silver threads ; the other was a crimson satin purse embroidered with LoMSARt)Y. Houte 27. — Srescia. 26? i .s' I "^ a ' i 2^ S'awi^a Giulia. A Koran, upon cotton paper, of early date and 278 Eoute 27. — Brescia ; Library ; Museo Civico. Sect. III. great beauty. The " Croce Magna," set with ancient gems, called also the Cross of Gralla Placidia, from having on it miniatures of that Empress and of her children Honoria and Valentinian III. ; it is supposed to be of the 5th centy., and belonged also to the con- vent of St. Giulia. Fom* valuable ivory diptychs — the first in honoiu^ of Manlius Boetius, who became consul in 510, and who was the father of the celebrated Severinus Boetius : on the back are some curious Christian minia- tures of the 6tli centy., representing the Raising of Lazarus, and 3 Saints : on one side the Consul is represented in his consular robes ; on the other presiding at the games of the Ch'cus. Another diptych of Lampadius, consul A.D. 530 : he also is represented as presiding at the games. A third, called the Dittico Quiriniano, is said to have belonged to Pope Paul II., after- wards passing into the possession of the Cardinal, with mythological sub- jects — Paris and Helen on one side, and a group of Paris and Helen crowned by Love on the other. Many have suspected that it is of comparatively recent date : the workmanship at all events is beautiful. The Li])sanoteca^ a series of scidptured ivory plates, which formed a box in the form of a cross, to contain relics ; the bas-reliefs represent subjects of the Old and New Testaments, and are referred to the 4th or 5th century. There is much doubt, however, as to the origin of this piece of antiquity. There are a few paintings in this library : — Titian : the Virgin, painted on a slab of la- pis lazuli. Zuccarelli : Saint Jerome taking care of Orphans. A very ex- tensive collection of engravmgs, both wood and copper, from the first inven- tion of the art, formed by Count Mar- tinengo, and bought by the govern- ment for the library. The Biblioteca Q.uiriniana contains about 200 manu- scripts, amongst which the Codex Eusebianus of the 11th centy., with miniatures, the Liber Poteris Brixise, containing the proceedings of the Municipality of Brescia diu'ing the 11th, 12th, and 13th centuries, and the Statute Bresciane, interesting for local history between 1200 and 1385. Galleria Tosi, or Museo Civico. — This handsome palace, with the large collections contained in it, were some years ago bequeathed to his native town by one of its distinguished citizens, Count Tosi, well known for his taste and patronage of the arts ; the gal- lery is now therefore public, open from 9 to 3 daily, and the property of the municipality. It is extremely well arranged, and distributed over ten rooms ; there are good hand cata- logues in each (indeed the names are marked on many of the pictures), we shall therefore only notice the most re- markable. At the top of the stairs are two busts by Monti of Ravenna — one of Count Tosi, and another of Galileo ; and on the walls some large pictures of the Brescian school, formerly in the Palazzo della Municipahta — a Holy Family, Supper at Emmaus, and an Ecce Homo, by il Moretto ; Christ bearing his Cross, by Foppa; 2 his- torical pieces by Cainjpi, &c. In this gallery the most remarkable work is the celebrated Saviour, or Man of Sorrows, by Maphael^ formerly be- longing to the Mosca family of Pe- saro, and which was purchased by Count Tosi for 24,000 fi-ancs — a small picture, charmingly executed, and ad- mirably preserved : it represents our Saviour crowned with Thorns, with one of those fine masculine Italian faces of fair complexion wliich we sometimes meet among the peasantry of the Apennines : it was painted about 1505. A Holy Family, by Fra Bartolommeo^ once belonging to the Salviati gallery ; a Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto ; a good Battle- piece, by Borgognone ; Yenus attired by the Graces, by Alhani. The Na- tivity, by Lorenzo Lotto, the Angels and Virgin being portraits of the Gus- soni family, for whom it was painted j a Madonna, by Francia, and another by Giulio Romana; a portrait of Henri III. of France, by Clouet; a drawing of the Rape of the Sabines, by LoMBARDY. Houte 2^ ,-^Bre8Gia : Miiseo Civico; Galleries, 279 Folidoro da Caravaggio ; a Madonna, by Simone da Pesaro; St. Francis, by An. Caracci. There are several por- traits by Moroney Titian^ Tintoretto, &c. In a small cabinet there is a collection of ancient and modern draw- ings by Raphael (?), Giulio Romano, G-uercino, Appiani, Palaggi, Bossi, &c. Among the modern works are two Landscapes by Massimo d^ Azeglio ; one, the Uomo di Ferro of the Orlando ; a Choir of Friars, by Granet ; a com- position by SayeZy representing the departure of the Exiles from Parga ; a picture of Sh' Isaac Newton studying the effects of hght on soap bubbles, by Palaggi; Tasso reading the Gerusa- lemme at the Court of Ferrara, by Podesti ; and Count Ugolino, by Diotti, &c. A long gallery is hung with engravings from the best masters ; at the extremity of which is a chapel, with a fine statue of Christ disputing with the Doctors, by MarcTiesi, over the altar. There are also some illumi- nated MSS. by (x. dei lAbri. In different parts of the palace are works of sculp- ture ; a young Bacchus, by Partolini ; bas-reUefs of Ganymede, and of Night and Morning, by Thorwaldsen ; a bust of Eleonorad'Este, by Canova; copies, by Gandolji, of Canova's bust of him- self, and of that of Napoleon; and Pampaloni's lovely statue of a Child praying, so well known by its numer- ous copies. The bronzes and objects of virtu have been removed to the Museo Patrio, and the medals, coins, &c., to the Bibhoteca Quiriniana. The gallery of pictures and curiosities formed by the late General Lecchi has been lately added to the Museo Civico, as well as those of the Brozzoni family. Among the palaces of Brescia con- taining. Picture Galleries and the pri- vate collections, whicli are good, the following are most worthy of notice : — Galleria Averoldi (Contrada di S. Carlo, No. 1621). The Palazzo Ave- roldi was built in 1544, and the family have been long distinguished as cultivators and protectors of art. Amongst the pictures are fine por- traits by Moroney Paris Pordone, CaUlsto da Lodi, Girolamo Savoldo, Pomanino, Richlno, &c. ; landscapes by Paul Prill and Temjpesta ; and by Titian a "Virgin with two Saints, probably Faustinus and Jovita, by Carpaccio ; this fine pictm-e is signed and dated 1515 : a Virgin and Child, by Giovanni Pellini ; several speci- mens by Pomanino — the painter's own portrait, a Nativity, and a fine portrait of Gherardo Averoldi, who contributed so materially to the expul- sion of the Milanese in 1426 ; a Holy Family, by Salaiyio ; and several Mo- rettosy &c. In the house of another member of the Averoldi family (Corso Carlo Alberto, No. 1755) is the cele- brated Ecce Homo by Titian, a legacy of the painter to one of the family. There are, besides, pictures by Pomanino^ Foppa^ and other Brescian painters, Casa Prozzoniy Via di San Francesco, No. 1977, contains some good modern pictures : Jacob and Esau by lEayez ; a hunting scene hj Massimo di Azeglio; a Magdalen by Palaggi ; the Flight of Bianca Capello by Appiani ; and a view of the Piazza di S.Marco at Venice, the last work of Migliara. There were also some paintings of the Bres- cian and Venetian schools, and the MazzucheUian collection of coins and medals, now removed to the Museo Civico. Palazzo Cigola, near the Giardini Publiciy a good specimen of domestic architecture. It is supposed to have been here that the wounded Bayard was so hospitably received in 1512. PalazzOy or Casa Ducco, in the Con- trada di S. Antonio, has a fine gateway surrounded by bas-reUefs of military ornaments, a man on horseback cross- ing a bridge, said to be Bart. Colleoni, forming the central one. The gay external decorations of the houses of Brescia form, or rather formed, a peculiar feature of the city ; but they are rapidly disappearing, from time and from neglect. In the Strada 280 Route 21 .-'Brescia : Palaces; Galleries, Sect. III. del Gamharo are some ciirious frescoes, on which Romanino was first em- ployed; but Gamhara having married his daughter, Romanino transferred the order of his son-in-law as part of the young lady's fortune. They repre- sent various classical subjects : — the Rape of the Sabines ; passages from the Iliad ; ^neas and Dido ; Europa and Jupiter ; the Continence of Scipio ; Mutius Scsevola ; Lucretia ; Asdrubal at the feet of Scipio ; and some others, with a great variety of accessary orna- ments, showing wonderful fancy, and, though less grace, yet perhaps even more originality, than exhibited by Pierino del Yaga in decorations not dissimilar in character. The Galleria JErizzo Maffei (Con- trada delle Grazie, No. 2731). The pictures in this palace once formed a part of the Fenaroli Gallery. The best are : a Marriage of St. Catherine, and a Madonna with 2 Saints, by Ho- manino ; a good Holy Family, by Talma Vecchia ; St. Agnes, and a por- trait of a Man holding a Book, by Moretto; the Fates, by Tintoretto; Ecce Homo, by Cesare da Sesto ; a Crucifixion, by Bassano ; Andromeda, attributed to Titian ; and a fine boy's head, by Morone. Galleria Fenaroli (Contrada del Pesce, 2689), belonging to Count Fenaroli. A Holy Family, by Cima da Conegliano ; the same subject with St. John, by il Moretto : St. Roch attended by the Angels, St. John the Evan- gelist, a Madonna and Child, by the same; a Magdalen, or, as some will have it, a Gipsy, by Titian; speci- mens of il Moretto ; fine portraits and other pictures h^^ Morone; portraits by Velasquez, Vandt/ke, Giorgione, &c. ; landscapes by Poussin, Tempesta, Sal. 'Rosa ; views of Venice, by Canaletti ; the Adoration of the Magi, by Faul Veronese, Callisto da Lodi, Guercino, &c. Also several paintings by modern artists ; amongst which Yenturo Fe- neroli dragged to prison, from the ch. of il Carmine, in 1511, by Sayez ; and specimens of sculpture by Tho: loaldsen^ Tenerani, &c. In the Corso de^ Mercanti is a house covered with frescoes by Gamhara ; the subjects are allegorical, and seem to represent the thi*ee principal stages of Ufe, youth, manhood, and age. Con- trada delta Loggia, also allegorical, by the same artist : these have been nearly all whitewashed. " A whole street, 11 Corso del Tea- tro, has the fronts of the second-floor story painted with a series of scrip- tural, mythological, and historical sub- jects, attributed to the Cavaliere Sa- batti. They have sufiered much owing to then* exposure to the weather, but the warm colours have remained, and many in portions are thoroughly well preserved. Some of the actions of the figures in these subjects, judging from their remains, are very grand, and equally so is the style in which they were drawn ; many of the deep but brilliant lake tones are worthy a Ye- netian." — S. A, Hart, E.A. Palazzo Martinengo Cesar esco, 358, Contrada S. Brigida, near the Museum, is remarkable for its fine architecture, probably by Lud, Beretta, the figures on the sides of the entrance by Jacopo Medici J a pupil of Sansovino's. Palazzo Martinengo Sanf Angelo^ at the end of the Giardini Publici, long abandoned, having been nearly de- stroyed by the Austrian cannon in 1849. Palazzo Martine7igo delta Fahrica, an extensive and sumptuous edifice, with a fine gate entrance. One chamber, painted by il Moretto, is a remarkable work : on each of the walls is a garden scene or landscape, with a bower in the centre, with family portraits; the ceiling is very elaborate. The Citadel or Fortress of Brescia occupies the summit of the hill round the sides of which the town is built, and is supposed to stand on the site of the Specula Cycnea of Catullus ; erected by the Yiscontis in the 14th LOMBARDY. Route 27. — Brescia : Campo Santo. 281 century, it was much strengthened by the Venetians, and in later years by the Austrians, so as to completely com- mand the city ; it was from it that Gen. Hay nau bombarded Brescia in 1849. The Cam^o Santo is well worth a visit, as one of the earhest establish- ments of the kind in Italy, and worthy of imitation in oiu* own country ; it is situated a short way outside the Porta di S. Griovanni, lead- ing towards Milan on the 1., and is approached by a fine alley of cypresses. Vantini, a native of Brescia, was the architect, in 1810, and deserves the greatest credit for having originated, and with great taste, one of the earliest of these useful foundations in Italy. The Campo Santo consists of a semi- circular area in front, surrounded by tombs, and a row of cypresses. From this outer area two gates lead into the inner cemetery, between which is a very handsome chapel with a Doric portico, havmg over the altar a good statue, by Gandolji, of the Angel Grabriel ascend- ing to heaven, and over the cornice busts of the different saints of Brescian origin. On either side of this chapel, under the porticoes which flank it, are the sepulclu'al vaults of the prmcipal famiUes of the province. The monu- ments of the Countess Erizzo Maffei, of the Countess Martinengo Cesaresco di Barco, and of Count Tosi, the patriotic founder of the Museum that bears his name, are deserving of notice ; the two first are by San Giorgio, the last by Monti of Ravenna. The ceme- tery is kept in admirable order* the poorer classes have each a head- stone, of an uniform shape and size, with a number attached for more easy refer- ence, the cost of which, including all charges for burial expenses, only amounts to about 6 francs. The high pyramidal monument in the centre is to JBossinij a benevolent curate of Brescia. Plan for visiting in topographical order the principal Sights at Brescia. :— This can sparcely be done in one day ; the artist will find ample oc- cupatiop for three or four. Duomo Veccldo ; Cathedral; JBro* letto ; Bihlioteea Quiriniana ; Museo Patrio; Oalleria Tosi; Cli.of S.Pietro; Citadel ; Chs. of S. Faustino Maggiore^ of S. Giovanni Fvarigelista^ of S. Francesco; Fal. della Municipalita ; Chs. of SS. Nazaro e Celso, S. Ales- sandro, S. Afra^ S. Farnaha, and S. Eufemia; Giardini Fuhlici ; Galleria Feneroli and Frizzo Maffei; Campo Santo. There are diligences from Brescia to Gargnano (30 m.) on the Lago di Garda daily at 7 A.M., passing by Rezzato, Salo, Maderno, and Tos- colano, arriving at midday in time for the afternoon steamer, which calls there on its voyage from Desenzano to Limone ; to Edolo in the Yal Camonica (62 m.), by Iseo^ Fisogne^ and Freno, returning to Brescia on the intermediate days. Fares to and from Edolo, 9 lire; by this con- veyance the traveller can visit the eastern shores of the Lago d'Iseo. There is also a very good road from Brescia (with a dihgence, passing by Festone^ Anfo, Storro^ and the Yal di Ledro, in 11 hrs.) to Riva, the station for the Austrian steamboats on the lake of Garda, from which they sail in the mornings of Wed. Thurs. and Frid. at 5 '40 for Peschiera, returning the same evng. at 2 p.i^.j and arriving at 6-20 P.M. at Riva. Rly. from Brescia to Pavia, passing by Cremona (Rte, 25,) BEESCIA TO PESCHIEEA. The Station at Brescia is immediately outside the Forta San Nazaro^ from which the Rly. runs parallel to, and at a short distance on the rt. of the old post- road, through a very rich and fertile country at the foot of the last decHvities of the Alps ; 3 trains daily each way as far as Peschiera and Veronaj 2 of which continue to Venice only, 282 Route 27. — Brescia to Peschiera, Sect. III. 9 kil. Eezzato Stat, Cross an ex- tensive plain for 6 miles to * 8 kil. Ponte San Marco Stat., on the Chiese, which empties the Lake of Idro : roads lead from this station to Salo and Garqnano on the 1,, and to the towns of Monte Chiaro and Castiglione on the rt. After crossing the Chiese, Monte Chiaro is seen on the eastern acclivity of the liills on the rt., and a continuous ascent of 4 m. brings us to 7 kil. Lonato {Stat. S. of the town), which is situated on the summit-level of a range of hills that separate the plains bordering on the Chiese from the Lago di Grarda, and which extend to Castiglione and Yolta. There is a large church with a dome in the centre of the town, and a high square mediaeval tower, which command a fine view over the lake of Garda ; and towards Yerona are considerable re- mains of mediaeval walls, which, seen from the road to Desenzano, form very picturesque objects in the landscape. Lonato is celebrated in the early mili- tary career of Napoleon as the scene of one of his most brilliant actions. Here, on the 3rd Aug. 1796, he defeated the rt. wing of the Austrian army com- manded by Marshal Wurmser, follow- ing it up two days after by the still more decisive battle of Castiglione, which at the time sealed the fate of the Austrian s in Italy. Leaving Lonato, the rly. at first passes through very deep cuttings in the gravel- beds, and through a short ttinnel, about 1 J m. beyond which we reach the viaduct of Desenzano, a bridge consist- ing of 15 pointed arches, a strange fancy of the Austrian engineers — the cause, probably, of the insecurity of this great work : it is built of red Yerona marble. Before arriving at the viaduct the lake first bursts on the traveller ; no- thing can be more magnificent than the panorama on the 1. from this spot ; below us, Desenzano with its mediaeval castle ; further on, the long sandy spit of Sermione terminated by its Scaligerian fortress; and beyond, the Monte Baldo towering over the N.E. shores of the lake of G-arda, witli the hilly region between the latter and the Adige, covered with towns and villas. Immediately after crossing the viaduct we arrive at 4 kil. Desenzano Stat.y nearly a mile from the town and the shores of the lake, and at some elevation above the latter. Omnibuses are in waiting on the arrival of each train. Desenzano. {Inns: Albergo Reale, kept by Mayer, clean, " moderate, and good table"— C. J5. N. ; and Posta Yecchia : both overlooking the lake.) The town of Desenzano, which contains a Pop. of 5000 souls, is situated on the shores of the lake; immediately above rises a fine old castle, which in me- diaeval times commanded the road between Brescia and Yerona. Desen- zano will be the point from which the island or promontory of Sermione can be most easily visited. The distance by water is 5, and by land between 6 and 7 m. In fine weather the row across will occupy IJ- hr. " Peninsularum Sirmio insularumque Ocella, quascunque in liquentibus stagnis, Mari vasto fert, uterque Neptunus." —Catullus, Feninsulce, Sirmionis laudis. ' Salve, o Venusta Sirmio - -." 2b, The Peninsula of Sermione, which is now virtually an island since the cutting of the ditch which separates it from the long sandy spit at the extremity of which it is situated, is well worth a visit; it consists of a ridge of lime- stone, having at its S. extremity the village and the picturesque castle, which forms so fine an object of the landscape of the Lake of Garda, and at the S". point some very extensive Roman ruins, which tradition has attributed to the Yilla of Catullus. There is an Osteria, La Scaligera, in the village, where the tourist, if inclined to prolong his stay, will find a decent bed and tolerable fare. The village is entered by a draw- bridge and a mediaeval gate on the S. On the opposite side is a fortified wall that separates it from the N. portion of tlie island, and tjn'ough LOMBARDY. Houte 27 ,-^Penlimih of Sermione, 283 which opens the only gate in that di- rection. The old castle, in tlic form of a quadrangle, with a high square tower, was entered on the side of the N. by a drawbridge. This entrance is still well preserved, as well as its small port or darsenay surrounded by crene- lated battlements ; but the principal entrance is now on the side of the village by a gate over which are shields bearing the arms of the Scali- gers, and which, having on each side theletters A. A., shows that the edifice dates from Alboino or Alberico della Scala, and was erected in the 14th cent, The castle, which belongs to the government, is tenanted by half a dozen soldiers, whilst the war- steamers of the N. Italian kingdom lie moored off it. In the village church there is nothing worthy of notice. There is a curious fragment of an early Chi'istian bas-reUef in the wall of a house adjoining. The town of Sermione is chiefly inhabited by fisher- men. As the tourist proceeds into the interior of the island he wiU see under the gate a mutilated Koman altar dedi- cated to Jupiter, and a fragment of another inscription. The whole of the island is one extensive olive-garden, the olive-tree here flourishing luxu- riantly, some of tlie trees attaining a size equal to those of the Lucchese or Roman territories. About the centre of the island is an old ch. dedicated to St. Peter, which contains some curious frescoes of the 14th or 15th centy., re- presenting the Crucifixion, the Virgin and Child, St. George, &c. Proceeding from thence towards the N. extremity, we come upon an oblong square build- ing, the walls of which are of Roman construction, called by the local cice- rone the Baths of Catullus. A short way beyond this is a subterranean arched passage, and farther on a second one, but more extensive, which formed evidently the substructions of an ex- tensive edifice, no trace of which re- mains above ground except a portion of the pavement of a court formed of bricks laid edgeways and diagonally. It is at the N, extremity of the island that the most extensive ruins exist, and which are really of Roman gran- deur. They consist of massive pilas- ters and arches in a grand style of Roman masonry, formed of alternate layers of brick and of the slaty lime- stone of the locality. They evidently supported a very extensive edifice, the position of which is one of the finest on the whole Lake of Garda, command- ing a view of a great portion of its N, prolongation into the mountains of the Tyrol, here wild and savage; the shores of the most fertile portion from Gar- gnano to Desenzano on one side, and from Torri and Funta di St. Vigilio to Peschiera on the other ; with the Monte Baldo^ the gorge of the Adige, and the peaks above Recoaro in the back- ground; whilst in the fore are the hilly region between the Adige and the Benacus, and the lovely villages of Oarda^ Bardolina^ Lazzise^ VacengOy &c,, bordering the shores of the lake. The high pointed peak on the 1. of the Upper Lake is the Monte Frainey over- hanging the valley of Toscalano : the abrupt point beyond Manerha on our 1. shuts out the view of the Bay of Salo : near the extremity of this point is the island of S. Francesco, covered with orange-groves, surrounding the Yilla Lecchi, one of the finest situations on the lake. S. of Manerba are the villages of Moniga and Fadenghe^ re- markable for their fine mediaeval castles, square structures, with towers at their angles, and still well preserved. The Lago di Garda^ the Benacus of classical writers, is formed chiefly by the river Mincio descending from the Italian Tyrol. Although receiving less water than the Lago Maggiore or Lake of Como, it is much more extensive ; indeed more so than any of the ItaHan lakes. Its surface is 227 ft. above the level of the sea, and its greatest hitherto ascertained depth 1900 Eng. ft. Its upper portion is suiTounded by high mountains, and except at the delta of the Mincio near Riva its sides are bold and precipitous. The lower por- tion, in the midst of the less elevated 284 Jhute 27. — Lago di Garcia. Sect. III. subalpiue region, widens out, and its shores are fertile and covered with villages. Here the climate is milder than upon the other Lombard lakes, owing to its less elevated position above the sea. The olive is much cultivated, and extensive plantations of lemon- trees, which however it is necessary to cover during the winter-season. From its greater extent and the prevaiHng winds the Lake of Grarda is more sub- ject to violent storms than either those of Como or Maggiore, and, from the larger expanse of water, the waves rise to a greater height, which have ren- dered it celebrated for its storms, giving to its waters the appearance of &n agitated sea— " teque Fluctlbus etfremitu assurgens Benace Marino.' The Lake of Garda abounds in fish, the principal of which are the trout, pike, tench, eel, two or three species of the carp genus, with the Sardelld and Agone^ probably different ages of the delicious fresh»water herring that exists in the other Lombard lakes. By ^ strange anomaly the perch is entirely wanting here, although so abundant in the more western lakes, where it is justly considered one of the finest species for the table. The only outlet is the Mincio at Peschiera, which is not navigable, being intercepted by weirs, where great num- bers of trout are caught. The recent introduction of trawling on the Lake of Grarda, as on the Lago Maggiore, is soon likely to exterminate this fish, now rapidly decreasing in conse- quence. According to the latest arrange- ments Salo is the point of departure for the Italian steamers when they leave at an early hour, proceeding on Tues . and Sat. to Desenzano, returning to Salo, and from there proceeding to Limone, to return to Salo in the evening; whilst on Mon. and Thurs. they proceed in the first instance to Limone, returning by Salo to Desen- zano, which they reach at 4-30 P.M., and going baclc afterwards to Salo ; by this means the tourist will be able to see the W. shore of the lake to advantage. As the hom^s of sailing and arrival of the steamers are, however, constantly varying, the traveller must consult the latest tables at the rly. stations, where trains are in correspondence with them. The most important places on the W, side of the lake are, on leaving Desenzano, Manerha, beyond wliich are the islands of San Biagio and Garda, upon one of which is the pretty villa formerly belonging to General Lecchi, Salo. Maderno^ a large village surrounded with lemon plantations. Toscolano^ where there are several paper-mills, at the foot of the peak of Monte Fraiue. Bogliasco, with a handsome villa residence; and 2 m. beyond QargnanOy one of the most con- siderable towns on the Lake of Garda, and where the carriage-road on the W. side ends. Tignale. Camjpione and Tremosine, in a very fertile district, covered with a rich southern vegetation; 5 m. beyond which is Limone, the extreme northern sta- tion, and about 2 m. from the Tyrolese frontier, between La Nova (Italian) and Fregasena (Austrian). ^iva. The station for the Austrian steamers to Peschiera every morning for Desenzano {Inn : Albergo del Sole, very fair.) Omnibuses and diligences from here to the stat. of Moci, on the rly. between Yerona and Inspruck, in 2| hrs. EXCUESION TO SOLFEEINO. [Ponte S. Marco, or Desenzano, will be the most convenient points from which Solferino battle-field pan be LOMBARDY. Route 21 ,— Excursion to SolfennOs 285 visited by travellers arriving from Brescia and Milan ; the former is the nearer of the two, but vehicles are more easily prociu'ed at the latter station. In every case, should the traveller pro- ceed from S. Marco, lie will do well to stipulate that after visiting Solferino he shall be carried to the Desenzano or Pes- cliiera station if he be proceeding to Venice, or back to S. Marco or Lonato if he be going towards Milan. A car- riage with 2 horses will cost from 12 to 15 fr. Leaving Ponte S. Marco, a good road leads to Monte Chiaro^ Castiglione^ Solferino^ S. Cassiano^ La Yolta, and Borghetto on the Mincio, at which the river may be crossed ; but it may be better to ascend along the 1. bank as far as Mon- zambanOy where there is a very curious Scaligerian Castle, and to cross from there by a hilly road to Pozzolengo and S. Martino, the scene of the heroic resistance of the Pied- montese, and from thence to Desenzano. The route from Desenzano will be somewhat different, avoiding Monte Chiaro and Castiglione. In either case, the excursion will occupy from 6 to Shrs. The hiUy region which extends from the southern extremity of the lake of Garda for about 10 m., and between the Chiese and Mincio, consists of a gravel deposit, forming a kind of great terminal Moraine of an enormous glacier, which, according to some geo- logists, may at a remote period have filled up this beautiful basin. These hills are covered with towns and villages, with vineyards and plantations of mulberry-trees, the principal centres of population being Lonato, Casti- glione delle Steviere, San Cassiano, Cavriano, and Yolta; places which have acquired a certain celebrity during the late war, as having witnessed the last scenes in the great struggle which closed with the Peace of Villafranca. A few words may be said therefore on the events that preceded tlie great bat- tle to which the name of Solferino has been given by the Emp. of the French. In other parts of this volume (pp. 44, 48) we hate noticed the earlier operations during the campaign of 1859. After the victory at Magenta, which opened Lombardy to the Emperor Napoleon, the Austrian army found itself constrained to retreat, abandon- ing Milan, Pavia, Piacenza, &c., and to place itself in a strong defensive position behind the Mincio. The French, on the other hand, were not slow in following up their successes on the Ticino. A second victory over the retreating army at Melegnano, on the 7th June, was the first result of this onward movement (p. 247). The Aus- trians, however, succeeded in making good their retrograde movement, in crossing the river, and in placing them- selves under the protection of Verona, Peschiera, and Mantua — the strong- holds of the celebrated Quadrilateral of their military Avriters, between the Adige and the Mincio. The Emp. Francis Jos8ph,having assumed the command of his army, and having received large rein- forcements, instead of shutting himself up in Verona, determined, towards the end of June, to reassume the offensive, and thereby to repair the successive disasters of his generals in the earlier part of the campaign. On the evening of June 23rd the whole Austrian army sallied out from Verona and Mantua, recrossed the Mincio, and occupied the principal points of the hilly region, from Pozzolengo on the N.E., by Solferino and Cavriana, to Griudizzolo in the plain of the Chiesej their line of battle being nearly 12 m. in length ; the village of Solferino, perched on a high hill overlooking the plain, being its centre ; the French being posted from Lonato to Carpendolo by Castiglione ; and the Piedmontese,who formed the left wdng of the Allied Army, from Desenzano to Uivoltella^ on the S. shores of the lake. On the 24th of June, at 5 a.m., the French commenced the battle by at-* tacking the left wing of the Austriana in the plain of Medole, and soon after the centre of the ImperiaUsts at Solfe* rino J whilst the Piedmontese, com* S86 Houte 27. — Sotferind. Sect. lit. manded by tlieir gallant King, engaged the enemy's right, under Marshal Benedek, the most experienced of the Austrian commanders, between JPozzo- lengo and S, Martino. The battle, or rather the several almost independent actions, lasted with varying successes until 4 P.M., although for the Allies with hourly increasing advantage, when by a supreme effort the French suc- ceeded in carrying Solferino, the key of the position, and estabhshing them- selves solidly on its heights, thus cut- ting the Austrian line into two ; the result was a general retreat, which was effected with considerable order on the same evening, by recrossing the Mincio at Monzambano, Borghetto, and Goito; the Piedmontese at the same time repulsing Benedek, and obHging him to retire under the guns of Peschiera, The Austrian anny is said to have amounted to 150,000 men, the Allied French and Sardinian to a nearly equal number. The losses of the former have been estimated at 20,000 killed and wounded, and 7000 pri- soners, with 30 pieces of cannon. The immediate consequence of this victory was the investment of Peschiera by the Piedmontese, and the establishment of the French on the 1. bank of the Mincio, preparatory to their laying siege to Yerona and Mantua, each party preparing for fresh onslaughts, when the Treaty of Villafranca (July 11th), so hastily and unexpectedly concluded between the two Emperors, put an end to the war^ leaving un- attained the object for which it was undertaken asdeclared by Napoleon III. — the liberation of Italy from the yoke of Austria from the Alps to the Adriatic — the Yenetian provinces, with their great military strongholds, remaining for a time in the hands of the defeated Emperor* The village of Solferino is remarkable for a high mediseval tower, probably of the age of the Scaligers, which is known by the name of La Spia d'ltalie — the look-out or watch-tower of Italy — from the extensive view it commands, extending from the Alps to the Apen- nines, and along the Lake of Garda nearly to its termination in the heart of the Tyrolese Alps. Of Lonato and CastigUone we have already spoken. S. Cassiano and Cavriana are villages of little importance : it was in the latter that the Emperor Francis Joseph passed the night preceding the battle, and Napoleon the night after. Volta, which derives it name from the turn in the direction of the road lead- ing to the passage of the Mincio at Borghetto, is upon the edge of the plain. The three passages of the river between Peschiera and Mantua by bridges are at Monzambano, Borghetto, and Goito ; the latter celebrated for a brilliant success of the Piedmontese army, commanded by their King Charles Albert, during the campaign of 1849. As before stated, the battle-fields of the 24th of Jiuie 1859 can be most conveniently visited, by persons arriv- ing from Milan and proceeding to Yenice, from Ponte di S. Marco and Desenzano ; from Peschiera by tourists proceeding in an opposite direction ; and from Yillafranca and Borghetto by travellers from Yerona who wish after- wards to proceed to Mantua, Parma, and Bologna.] From the Desenzano Stat, the Rly* follows the plain which is bordered by the amphitheatre of low hills which bound the lake on the S. The views over it in this part of the journey are extremely fine : none more beautiful than its first burst on the traveller be- fore reaching the Desenzano viaduct, A veiy gradual incline of about 120 ft. in 5 m. brings us to near The village of IPozzolengo^ before reaching which that of San Mar- tino, and farther S. the town of Sol- ferino, the Spia cVItalie, are left on the rt. S. Martino was the scene of one of the most brilliant victories of the Piedmontese in the campaign of 1859, on June 24, who, attacked by the whole rt. wing of the Aus- LoMBliibY* Houte 2 i . — Pozzolengo — Pesclikra, 28? trian army under Marshal Benedek, drove him back, and iiltmiately obHged him to retire under the guns of Peschiera. 3 m. beyond this the first detached forts of Peschiera are passed on the rt. and 1., and soon after the town and fortress, close to which the Mincio is crossed on a fine stone bridge of 5 arches, with a road for carriages beneath, the bridge being more than 50 ft. above the river. A short distance farther is the 15 kil. Peschiera Stat. (There is a Buftet at the Ely. Stat., and a miser- able Inn within the fortress, the Al- hergo delle Tre Coroyie.) At the Ely. Stat, the traveller proceeding to Eiva by the steamer will find an omnibus in attendance to carry him to the borders of the lake, and carriages to any other point he may wish to visit. Peschiera, which is situated partly on an island formed by the Mincio where it issues from tlie Lake of Q-arda, has been very strongly fortified of late years, first by Napoleon, and since by the Austrians; and has been the scene of many san- guinary conflicts : it underwent a siege of seven weeks in 1848, when it sm'- rendered to the Piedmontese under Carlo Alberto. Since that time the works have been greatly strengthened by the erection of several detached forts, especially on the W. side, and extensive barracks forming 3 sides of a square in the island-quarter of the town. It was again invested in June 1859 by the Piedmontese after the battle of Solferino, but its siege was cut short by the Treaty of Yillafranca. The town itself, on the rt. bank of the Mincio, is a miserable place. Peschiera is a principal station for the Austrian steamers which ply upon the Lago di Garda; they start regu- larly for Eiva, calling at the different towns on tlie eastern side ; their time of arrival and departure corresponds with tliat of the railway trains to Yerona and Brescia, thus establishing an expeditious communication between the Tyrol and Venetian Lombardy ; the j^Qura and days of starting being — for Eiva, daily, from May to Oct., at 1 P.M., and in winter on Mon., Wed., and Frid., corresponding with the early trains from Milan, Verona, and Venice. The boats employ 3^ to 4 hrs. : the fares If florin. The same boats leave Eiva for Peschiera at an early hour, reaching Peschiera in time for the afternoon trains to Milan, Verona, and Venice. They call oSMalcesme, Cast el- letto, Torri, Garda^ Lazise^ and Bar- dolino. By these arrangements the traveller leaving Venice and Milan by the early morning trains, can reach Trent, the capital of the Itahan Tyrol, on the same evening; but these ar- rangements vary with the season as to days and hours. There is a fair restaur- ant on board these steamers. Omni- buses start from Eiva for Trento every momg., places in which ought to be secured on board ; and to Mori, on the Ely. from Verona to Bolzano, also every morn. An Italian boat runs between Desenzano, Salo, and Limoncj going and returning on Mon., Tues., Thurs., and Sat., calling at Tremesine, Grargnano, and Maderno ; returning from Desenzano on the same evening, calling off Maderno, Gargano, Salo (which will be the best stopping place, where the Gambero is a good Imij but make your bargain) : a very agreeable excursion of 12 hrs. from Salo to the Lake of Idro. At Eiva, il Sole is a good Inn. The battle-fields of San Martino and Solferino may be also conveniently visited from Peschiera ; in which case the itinerary will be to S. Martino, Pozzolengo, Solferino, and Cavriana, returning by San Cassiano and Cas- tiglione to Lonato or Desenzano ; or^ should the traveller be proceeding to Mantua, from Cavriana to Volta, crossing the Mincio at Borghetto, and Valeggio to Villafranca station on the rly. Carriages for the excursion can be procured from a person named Nuto, to be heard of at the inn of the Tre Corone. A carriage with 2 horses will cost from 1.5 to 20 francs, according to the number of persons, but, in making the bargain, it must be distinctly un- 288 Route 2Si'^-Milan to Bergamo* Sect. 111. derstobd tkat the Vetturino will bring back the tourists either to the Pes- chiera, Lonato, or Desenzano stations, or to Villafranca. Several agreeable excursions may be made from Peschiera. o m. from it is the village of Cola, very beautifully situated on a hill (Colle)» 2 m. farther is Lazise, on the p]. shore of the lake, surrounded with very picturesque me- diaeval walls : its castle, consisting of towers and a dungeon, was erected by Mastiijo della Scala in the 13th cent. 3 m. farther N. is Bardolino, also on the lake. Here the traveller will do well to take boat to visit the picturesque pro- montory of San Vigilio, on which is a handsome villa, built by Sanmichele ; and 3 m. farther Torri, with remains of a Scaligerian castle erected by Al- berto della Scala in 1333; he may then return to the village of Garda, one of the most beautifully situated places on the Lake to which it gives its name, and enjoying a climate much milder than any other on its shores. At Garda is the villa of Count Albertini, with handsome gardens and plantations ; and a little way S. of it, on the hill of the Eremo, a villa of Count Borri, on the site of a Camal- dolese Sanctuary, where Count Alga- rotto resided : it is in a lovely situation. A ride of an hour from Garda will bring the tourist to the plateau of Rivoli, the Scene of one of Napoleon's most de- cisive victories over the Austrians in 1797; from here, descending the rt. bank of the Adige, he may reach Pas- trengo^ celebrated in all the Italian Wars as a military position ; or proceed to Verona by the rly. from the stat. of Ceraino in about an hour. ROUTE 28. MILAN TO BEEGAMO, BY THE POST-BOAD THROUGH GOSaONZOLA AND TAPRIO. About 29 m. This, which was formerly the most direct line of communication with Ber- gamo, is now seldom followed by travellers since the opening of the Railway ; still it offers interest, as it passes through one of the richest agricultural districts of Lombardy. It can only be performed by means of hired horses, as the post stations have been removed. It follows the line of the Martesana canal nearly all the way to the Adda. Quit Milan by Porta di Venezia. CrescenzagOf a pleasant village, with many villas and gardens around. Cascina de' Pecchi. This is a famous cheese district, of less extent than that about Lodi, but nevertheless of considerable importance. The cheese is called Stracchino, The road con- tinues as far as Le Fornaci, along the Martesana canal. This canal was first excavated in 1457, by Francesco Sforza ; but the levels being ill calcu- lated, it was nearly useless. Leon- ardo da Vinci was afterwards called in, and he gave plans for improving the cut: and when the duchy was occupied by the French, Francis I. assigned 5000 zecchins annually for the works. In the 16th centy., under Philip II. of Spain, other surveys were made; but the naviglio was almost entirely re-excavated in 1776. Gorgonzola, 2l flourishing town, with a new church and cemetery. Here the Milanese suffered a signal defeat from Frederick Barbarossa in 1158, a little before the destruction of Milan ; and here King Heinz, whom the Italians call Enzio, the illegitimate son of Frede- LoMBARDY. Hoate 28. — 2Iilan to Bergamo. 289 rick II., was taken prisoner (1245) by the Milanese, but released upon his swearing that he never again would en- ter their territory, an escape which only renewed for him the captivity which ended with his life. About Gorgonzola the best stracchi'no is made from cream and unskimmed cows' milk. It derives its name from having been originally made from the milk of the cows of the migrating herds, called hergamini (per- haps from the German word hergy a mountain), which came down from the mountain pastures {alpl) in the au- tumn, to feed during the winter in the plains, and which arrived sir acc/ie, tired. Since the consumption has become very great, it has been made also from the milk of cows which pasture always in the plain country. Two sorts are pro- duced, one in a square form, which is eaten fresh, or when not more than 6 months old ; the other round, and of a considerable size, which is kept from 3 to 12 months. It is valued in pro- portion as it is duly streaked and spotted with green marks, called erho- rine, and which are produced by mixing the curd of one day with that of the previous one. Although a mild rich cheese at first, it becomes very strong by keeping. Old stracchino is greatly esteemed. The stracchino is sold fresh at abaut 1 fr. the large pound, /. e. about 5d. a lb. avoirdupois. It is estimated that the cow which yields the milk for stracchino affords a double gain over that yielding the Parmesan cheese. Le Fornacl: here a road branches off on the rt. to Cassano d'Adda and Trev'iglio ; the road to Bergamo runs on to Vajirioj in a beautiful situation on the Adda : the country around is studded with villas. One of these, belonging to the Duke of Melzi, is in- teresting on account of its containing a remarkable painting, a colossal Vir- gin, now extending through two stories of the dwelling. There is much beauty in the figure, and it has been attributed, upon old authority, to Leonardo da Vinci ; yet many doubt the tradition, on account of the unusual size. The Villa Castelbarco, at Moniste- rolo, near Vaprio, will be worth a visit. Cross the Martesana and then the Adda: Vaprio and Canonica are only divided by the river. Canonica. (Inn: Albergo de' Tre Re.) From this point the views become very beautiful. Bergamo is seen on its hill, crowned by its domes and lofty towers ; and in the foreground the landscape is of exceeding richness. A short way above Canonica the Brembo torrent empties itself into the Adda. BoUiere. Osio di Sotto. Grumello del Diana. Bergamo, (See Rte. 27.) K i^a^y— 1869. ( 291 ) SECTION IV. VENETIAN PEOVINCES. 1. Territory ; Population. — 2, Passports. — 3. Money. — 4. Weights and Measures, — 5. Posting. — 6. Bailways, Routes. ROUTE. PAGE. 29. Peschiera to Verona — Rail - 292 30. Yerona to Mantua, by Villa- /mwca— Rail - - - 320 31. Yerona to Venice, hj Caldiero, Vicenza, and Padua — Rail 334 32. Mantua to Padua, by Le- ROUTE. PAGB gnago, JSste, Montagnana, Monselice, and Ahano - 435 33. Padua to the Po, by Povigo — Rail - - - - 436 34. Yenice to Trieste, by Treviso, Pordenone, Casarsa, and Udine — Rail - - - 440 PRELIMINARY OBSERYATIONS. § 1. Territory — Population. Under the name of the Yenetian Provinces are included all the continental possessions. They embrace the territory of the ancient republic E. of the Mincio, ceded to Austria by Napoleon by the Treaty of Campo Formio, and confirmed by that of Yienna; the possessions of the Dukes of Mantua E4 of the Mincio ; the triangular space between the Lower Mincio and the Po, once a part of Lombardy ; and some small enclayures on the So of that river belonging to the territory of Gronzaga, retained by Austria after the annexa* tion of the Duchies of Parma and Modena, and of the Legation of Eerrara, to the Itahan kingdom in 1860. The population of the Yenetian Provinces scarcely reaches 2,500,000 inhab. § 3. Money. The following are the comparative values of coins circulating in the Yenetian Provinces. At present, Itahan paper is ahuost the only currency. Lira Itallana, or French Franc. Lira Austriaca, or Zwanzlger, ^ of a Florin. L. Austriache. L». [tal. Lir. 1 Cent. Lir. Cent. Lir. Cent. Lir. Cent. 1 — 1 19 1 — 84 2 — 2 38 2 — 1 68 3 — 3 57 3 or Florm. 2 52 4 — ! 4 76 4 — j 3 36 5 — 5 95 5 — 4 20 10 "~- 11 90 10 — 8 40 The Florin is divided into 3 Lire Austriache = 100 soldi ; so the French franc or Italian Hra is = to 40 soldi, the English shilhng to 50, and the lira Austriaca to 83 French or Italian centimes. o 2 292 4. Weights and Measures, b. Posting, ^^Railuays, Sect. iV. § 4. Weights and Measttres. Weights. — Although the metrical division is now generally adopted throughout the Venetian territory, at Venice other weights and measures are in use. The pound, by which all, except very heavy materials, are purchased, is the libhra^ peso sottile ; it is divided into 12 oncie, 72 sazi, or 1728 carati, and equals 4650 English grains ; hence lOOlb, peso sottile equal 66*41b. avoirdupois. § 5. Posting. Owing to the extension of railways in the Venetian provinces, there is scarcely a road comprised in this Section on which there are still post-horse stations : where there are, the regulations are the same as in the Piedmontese and Lombard Provinces. § 6. Railways. The Railways at present opened in Yenetia are — the continuation of the Grreat Lombardo-Venetian line from Peschiera to Venice ; the lines from Verona to Mantua ; from Verona to the Tyrol, Munich, and S. Germany, by Botzen and the Brenner Pass ; from Venice to Udine and Trieste, by Treviso, ConegHano, and Pordenone, and thence to Laybach and Vienna j and from Padua to the Po, by Este and Rovigo. KOUTES. ■ ROUTE 29. PESCHIEEA TO VEEONA— RAILWAY. Castel-nuovo 5 kil. Somma Campagna 12 Verona 26 3 trains daily. 26 kil.=16 Eng. m. Leaving the Peschiera Stat., the road proceeds, through deep cuttings to 5 kil. Castel-nuovo Stat., situated J m. S. ofthevillage, above which are the ruins of a mediaeval fortress. Castel- nuovo was sacked and burned by the Austrians in 1848, for having allowed itself to be occupied by one of the Lombard free corps, which, having landed at Lazise, succeeded in getting between Verona and Peschiera, and in destroying the powder magazines of the latter fortress: only two houses Venetian Pkov. Konte 29. — Verona, 293 and the church remained intact after this act of mihtary vengeance. [A good road leads from Castel-nuovo to Ponton on the Adige bj Pastrengo, by which tlie traveller can join the old post-road or tlie rly. to the Tyrol without entering Verona.] The village of Somma Cam- pagna is in a liigh position on the 1. ; after leaving it, that of Custozza is seen about 2 m. on the rt., celebrated for a very sanguinary action in 1849, between the Austrians and the Piedmontese, in which the latter were worsted. 7 m. Somma Campagna Stat. A good deal of deep cutting has been neces- sary in carrying the railroad between these two stations. From this place there is a gradual descent over a richly- cultivated district, until we enter the Plain of the Adige, across which the railway runs to the Verona Stat., outside the Porta Nuova. Omnibuses convey passen- gers to the different hotels on the arrival of each train, and good broughams, the fare in which to any part of the city is 1 lira. 8 m. Yeeona. Inns : Albergo delle DueTorri; very comfortable, " excellent in every respect " — {Fortescue, Oct. 1867) ; a good table-d'hote at 5 o'clock, 5 fr. : the manager, Luigi Bel- lini, is a most intelhgent person. — La Torre di Londra; small, also good, people very attentive (May, 1865). — La Colombo d'Oro. Yerona is now the point from which diverge the com- munications between N.E. Italy and Grermany, and the centre of all mili- tary movements in the Venetian Pro- vinces. Rly. from Verona, by the valley of the Adige and the Brenner Pass to Bolzano and to Inspruck, Munich, and Vienna. Verona contains 60,000 Inhabitants, not including its very large garrison. From its vicinity to the Alps the cli- mate is somewhat sharp, but healthy. Fruit and flowers are excellent, as may be seen in the Piazza delle Erbe every inorning. The cit^ is divided into two unequal portions by the Adige. The treaty of Luneville, 1801, gave the smaller portion on the 1. bank to Austria, the remainder to the Cisal- pine republic. This division of one city occasioned great inconvenience to the inhabitants, who, in crossing the middle arch of the bridge, entered into a foreign territory ; but their trouble soon ended by the French getting the whole. The site of Verona has been considered as the finest in the N. of Italy. Such superlatives are always matters of fancy; but the blue hills and mountains beyond, the rushing stream, and the finely varied landscape, dotted with villas, surrounded by groves, in which the tall dark cypress contrasts with the other trees, deserve the vivid picture which they have re- ceived from Berni : — " Rapido fiume, che d'alpestra venaj Impetuosamente a noi discendi, E quella terra sovra ogn' altfa amena Per mezzo, a guisa di Meandro, fendi; Quella chedi valor, d' inj^egno e sipena, Per cui tu con piu lume, Italia, splendi, Di cui la fama in te chiara risuona, Eccelsa, graziosa, alma Verona. Terra antica, gentil, madre, e nutrice Di spirti, di virtu, di discipline ; Site che lieto fanno anzi felice L' amenissime valli, e le colli ne, Onde ben a ragion giudica e dice Per questo, e per 1' antiche tue ruine, Per la tua onda altiera che la parte, Quei che 1' aguaglia alia citta di Marte." The river Adige, called 'Etsdi in the German Tyrol, flows through the city. It is crossed by four bridges, and turns numerous floating watermills moored across the stream. The floods of the Adige are tremendous. One, which took place in the 13th centy., is com- memorated in the ancient frescoes of the cathedral. By such a flood in 1757 the Fonte delle Nave was entirely carried away. On the 31st of August, 1845, after three days' hard rain, the greater part of the town could only be traversed in boats. In 1822, the Congress of Verona^ convened chiefly with reference to the affairs of Spain, was held in Palazzo Castellani, where Prince Metternich resided for the time. The Duke of 294 Route 29. — Verona: Amphitheatre, Sect. IV. Wellington occupied 'Palazzo di Sam- lonifazi, now called Vela; tlie Em- peror and Empress of Austria the Palazzo JErhistiy where they entertained the members in a dull, contracted, lofty saloon, in which a most miserable picture records the rendering of homage by Hungarian deputies to the Kaiser. The distant aspect of " Verona la Degna^'' with its serrated walls and lofty towers, is very pecuhar ; it con- tains several remarkable objects. Of these, the first to attract the attention of the traveller is the Am- fliitheatre. It is supposed to have been built between the years 81 and 117 of GUI' era, consequently contemporaneous with the CoUseum. The interior is nearly perfect, which it owes to the continuous care bestowed upon it. Most of the other Roman amphi- theatres have suffered exceedingly from havi:ag been converted into fortresses, as at Aries and Kismes, or considered as quarries for materials, as the Coli- seum. The outer circuit was greatly damaged by an earthquake in 1184. The ruined portions appear to have been carried away and employed on other edifices, but the mass itself was diligently preserved. By a statute passed in 1228 it was enacted that every podesta, upon taking office, should spend 500 lire upon the repairs of the Arena. In 1475 penalties were de- creed against any one who should re- move any of tlie stone; in 1545 a special officer was appointed to take care of it ; in 1568 a voluntary sub- scription was raised for its support ; and in 1579 a tax was imposed for its reparation. Other decrees in its favom have been since made ; yet, notwith- standing all this care, 4 arches only are preserved of the outer circuit, which consisted originally of 72, being 8 less than in the Coliseum. The internal aspect of the arena is complete: and though a great number of the seats have been restored, some as late as 1805, yet, the operation having been performed gradually, the restorations are not apparent. The greater dia- meter of the Amphitheatre is 511 ft. ; of the arena 262J ft. The lesser dia- meter of the Amphitheatre is 404;J ft. ; and of the arena 146 ft. The circum- ference is 1429^ ft., and the height of what remains is, from the original pave- ment, 100 ft. ; it is calculated that it could have contained 22,000 spectators. It is built of Yerona marble, the sub- structions and vaultings beneath the seats being of good Roman brickwork. "The seats continue nearly in one slope from top to bottom, nor is there any evi- dence that they were divided hjprcecinc' tiones (^. e. broader steps, leaving a pas- sage behind the seated spectators) into maeniana, or stories,as was usual. How- ever, immediately above the podium (the terrace immediately above the arena, just wide enough to contain two or three ranges of moveable seats) is a wide space which, though never called by that name, is precisely of the nature of a precincUo^ and the sixth step from this is very narrow; and as it could not be used as a seat, the back of the step immediately below would become a means of communication : it is uncer- tain, however, whether this is anything more than a bunghng restoration.^ The steps now existing are 43, each, on an average, as nearly as I could determine it, 16 inches high and 28 wide, and sloping two inches from back to front. I will not undertake to say that this latter circumstance arises from any- tliing but the settlement of the work ; yet I think, from the ancient steps which remain, that these were origin- ally laid with a small slope, to throw off the rain-water. The part wliich still exists of the outer circuit of the amphitheatre is unconnected with the steps, and, at the upper part, is en- tirely detached from the rest of the fabric ; so that, if we have, therefore, no direct proof of the existence of a wooden gallery, there is at least no evidence against it. The building is much larger than that at Nismes." — Woods, So much remains perfect of * There can be little doubt that this narrow step is an imperfect restoration, as it is car- ried only half way yound the amphitheatre.— Venetian Prov. Route 29. — Peschiera to Verona, 29^ g|fl2Sca5.ce'Sig Vexetian Piiov. Hoiite 29. — Verona : Eoman Tlieatre ; Gates. 297 the corridors and entrances by the vomitories, that a very clear idea of the arrangements of an ancient amplii- theatre may be obtained. Some por- tions of the underground arrangements of the arena have been cleared out within a few years, but these do not afford any sufficient data for solving the much-debated questions respecting the object of these substructions. The numbers sculptured on the arches of the outer circuit to guide the spec- tators where to present their tickets remain quite distinct — LXIIII. LXV. LXVI. LXYII. Many of the arcades are now occupied by smiths, farriers, and small tradesmen. The interior is frequently used for exhibitions of horsemanship, dancing on the tight rope, fireworks, &c., &c. In the 13th century it was used for judicial com- bats ; and it is recorded of some of the Visconti, that they received 25 Ve- netian lire for every duel fought there. The Roman Theatre is on the 1. bank of the Adige ; its destruction began at a very early period. A cu- rious decree of King Berengarius, dated 895, describes it as dilapidated, and permits all persons to demoUsh the ruinous portions ; yet much of it was standing as late as the 16th cen- tury, and Caroto, the painter, delighted himself with drawing and studying its remains. There is now little above ground, excepting fragments principally incorporated in other buildings (be- tween the base of the hill S. Pietro and the Adige) ; but numerous fragments of sculpture have been dug up about it. Besides the amphitheatre, Verona still contains some remarkable monu- ments of the imperial age. The arch commonly called the Porta dei Bor- sariy hke the Roman gates of Treves, of Autun, and that which once stood at Chester, is double. From the traces of the inscriptions in the friezes, it appears to have been built under the Emperor GalUenus, together with the walls of the city in which it was in- serted, about the year 265. The style of the architecture is very remarkable ; pillars with spiral flutings, small arches or windows between columns and sur- rounded by pediments, and numerous other anomalies, rendering it a con- necting link between the style of the Antonines and that of the darkest por- tion of the middle ages. The inscrip- tions were composed of bronze letters in relief, fastened to the stones as in the frieze of the Maison Carree at Nismes, and the words have been deciphered by the marks which they have left behind. But many antiquaries are of opinion that G-allienus merely caused the gateway to be fronted and ornamented, and that the mass of the building, the 2 lower arches in particular, belongs to an earlier age. Be this as it may, the Porta dei B or sari, a monument 1600 years old, stands in full solidity athwart the crowded street of a living city. Another fine Roman gateway is called the Arco de^ Leoni : this, however, is much less perfect than the Porta dei Borsari. It is in better taste, and probably of about the same age. Yerona exhibits a remarkable series oi fortifications^ of various periods. The earliest are those built by the Emperor Gallienus, of which the Porta dei Bor- sari and the Arco di Gavi^ pulled down in 1805, were 2 of the gates : large masses of this wall remain, but generally incorporated in other buildings. The most apparent portion is in a lane called the Viottolo di San Matteo. To these imperial walls succeed, in point of date, those attributed to Theodoric, and probably not much later than his time. They are of great extent, built of alternate triplets of courses of stone and brick ; that is to say, three of each, the bricks placed in what is called herring-bone fashion, also employed in the churches of this city, and doubt- less imitated from this structure. An- other line is popularly attributed to Charlemagne: that is beyond the Adige. The fourth was begun by the Scaligers, who crowned them with the forked battlements which render them so picturesque, especially the part beyond the Adige, and the towers which rise upon the bold and precipi- tate hills add much to the beauty of the 03 298 Route 2^. — Verona: Fortifications. Sect. IV. town. These last walls are built upon those of Theodoric. Lastly are the out- works of the Scahgerian walls, begun by the Venetians about 1520, according to the plans of several engineers. Ulti- mately they were completed by, or at least after the plans of, the celebrated Sanmicheli (born at Yerona 1484), who may be considered as the father of the science of modern fortification. Square and circular bastions had previously been introduced : of the latter kind a very remarkable one is yet subsisting, called the Bastione Soccare, containing within it a vast bomb-proof casemate, of which the vault is supported by a central pillar. But a cu'cular bastion can never be perfectly flanked ; and San- micheli, considering tliis defect, intro- duced the triangular and pentangular bastion ; and the Bastione della Mad- dalena of this city was the first specimen of the defence which has become the basis of the present system of fortifica- tion. Sanmicheli also not only flanked the curtain, but all the fosse to the next bastion, the covered way, and the glacis. The mysteiy of this art consisted in defending every part of the enclosure by the flank of a bastion. The modern fortifications of Yerona are amongst the most remarkable works of military engineering in Europe. Since 1815, when the city devolved to Austria, every efiort has been made to render it a stronghold of the first order, but especially since the outbreaks in 1849, when it became not only the miH- tary but the civil capital of the Aus- trian possessions in Italy. Not only have its former walls been greatly strengthened, but a very extensive sys- tem of detached forts erected on every assailable point in its vicinity, so as to render it impregnable ; every summit commanding the town has been forti- fied, extensive barracks erected within the fortifications, and a new arsenal on an immense scale formed in the plain opposite that founded by the Scaligers. Yerona thus become the key to the Austrian power in Italy, with its com- munications easily maintained by the valley of the Adige with Grermany. It can at present accommodate a garrison of 20,000 men, and it is believed could only fall after a pro- longed blockade, before an army greatly exceeding the number of its defenders. The fortification gates designed by SanmicheH yet remain. Fort a Stuppa, or del Balio, is near the centre of the line of the fortifications on the W. and S. sides of the city. "In this gate the mode in which Sanmicheli combined pure and beautiful architec- ture with the requisites called for in fortification may be seen displayed to great advantage. It is an instance of his wonderful ingenuity and taste." — Grioilt, This gate was so called from' the game of the Pallone^ wliich used to be played near it. Yasari terms this gate a miracle of architecture. BortaNuova. — Through which passes the road to Mantua. " This gate has great architectural merit. It is a square edifice, supported within by a number of piers of stone, with enclosures or apartments for the guards, artiUery, &c. The proportions as a whole are pleasing. It is of the Doric order, de- void of all extraneous ornament, soHd, strong, and suitable to the purposes of the building. — For beauty, however, this gate is not equal to that of del PaHo." — Gwilt. The Porta Nuova has been much injured as regards its archi- tectural beauty, by enlarging the side entrances, rendered necessary for the traffic to one of the railway stations, which is just outside it. Biazza dei Signori. Here are the palaces formerly inhabited by the Sea- ligeri, the lords of Yerona, which upon their expulsion became the seats of the municipal government. In the centre stands a colossal statue of Dante, erected on the occasion of his sexcen- tenary anniversary (May 14, 1865) ; it is by a native sculptor, and a good work of art. The poet stands looking to- wards the house in which he was so hospitably received in his exile by C^m Grande della Scala, as described by him in the beautiful lines of the Inferno. The name of Dante has been given to Venetian Prov. Route 29. — Verona: Piazza delle Erie, 299 the street leading out of the Piazza. The finest edifice in tliis square is The Palazzo del Consl(jlio, in the mixed style of the 15th centy., pro- bably built by Fra Glocondo. His portrait exists in bas-reUef on the build- ing close to the Volto delle foggie. Fra Giocondo (d. 1499) was an excellent scholar as \Vell as an architect. He was the first who gave a correct edition of Vitruvius. He discovered at Paris the letters of Pliny. He was also an exceedingly able engraver. Coupled windows and arches sup- ported upon columns, pilasters with elegant arabesques, in a style similar to the Colleoni chapel of Bergamo, adorn other portions, all full of the merit of the cinque-cento style. The Annunciation m bronze, in front of this palace, is a fine work of Gio- vanni Campagna. This building is surmounted by statues of those whom Yerona clauns as her own; and all celebrated men are claimed as Yeronese, who were born within the municipal jurisdiction. They are as follow : — Pliny the younger^ though stoutly con- tested by Como, and apparently upon good grounds ; for, though he speaks in his epistle of " om' Yerona," tliis probably refers only to his rights of citizenship in the city. — Cornelius Nepos. — Macer^ the author of the poem upon the qualities and poisons of herbs and serpents. — L. Vetruvms Cerdo. — But, above all, Catullus^ who reflected as much credit upon Yerona as Yirgil did upon Mantua : — " Mantua Virgilio gaudet, Verona Catullo." Ovid. ^mnr. iii. el, 15, 1. 7. "Tantum magna suo debet Verona Catullo, Quantum parva suo Mantua Virgilio." Mart. xiv. ep. 195. Of the modem period, and on the Volto delle foggie, is Fracastoro, equally eminent as a poet and a physi- cian, but who, unfortunately, chose disease as the subject of his didactic poem : he is one of the three great masters of modern Latin poetry, Yida and Sannazaro being the other two ; and Hallam thinks, though Yida ex- celled in the structure of his verse, yet that Fracastorius was the greatest poet of the three. And, lastly, on the side towards the Piazza delle Erbe, stands Scipione 3£affei, the historian of liis native city. The two palaces on the opposite side of the Piazza, now occupied by the law courts and public ofiices, were built by Mastino (1272), and Alberto della Scala his son ; but having been several times re-modernised, no traces remain of their ancient splendour, of Giotto's frescoes, or of where once lived the " Altissimo poeta" during his sojourn at the court of the Scahgers. The Campanile of the Piazza dei Signori is a magnificent, lofty, and simple unbroken piece of brickwork, nearly 300 feet high. Communicating with the Piazza dei Signori on the. S. W. side is the Piazza delle Frhe, or vegetable-market, which was the Forum in the repubhcan times of Yerona, and contains many old and picturesque buildings connected with its history. The small open tribune near the market-cross occupies the place of an older building to which the newly elected Capitano del Popolo of the Free City, after having heard mass at the cathedral, was conducted, and in which, after he had addressed the people, he was invested with the insignia of office. In after-times the sentences of condemned criminals were pro- nounced from this tribune. Proclama- tions were made from it, and debtors were here compelled to submit to a humiliating punishment. If the foun- tain, in the centre of the Piazza, was first erected by King Berengarius in 916, it was restored and provided with an additional supply of water by Can- signorio, the ninth ruler of the Scaliger family, in 1368. The same Cansignorio erected the tower winch is seen at the further end of the square, and placed in it the first clock erected at Yerona. The building on one of the sides of the Piazza, with arcades and pointed win- dows, is an Exchange, called the Casa dei Mercanti, and was built for that purpose, by Alberto della Scala, in 1301. On it is a good statue of the Yirgin, by Campagna. The pillar at the end of 300 Route 29.— Verona : Monuments of the Scaligers. Sect. IV. the Piazza was set up in 1524 by the Venetians , to whom Yerona was then subject, to support the lion of St. Mark. The pillar consists of a single block of Veronese marble. The name of the architect, as may still be read on the base, was Michael Leo. The bronze lion was thrown down when the republic of Yenice expired in 1799. At the end of the Piazza near this pillar is the Falazzo Maffei (now Tresa), once the residence of the patri- cian family of which the historian of Yerona was a member. It is a highly enriched specimen of the Italian style of the 17th centy. The fronts of several of the more considerable houses in this Piazza are decorated with frescoes. Near the Piazza dei Signori are the Tomhs of the Scaligers, These sin- gular monuments stand close to the church of Santa Maria VAntica. They are in a small churchyard en- closed by a beautiful iron railing or treUis-work, consisting of open quatre- foils, in the centre of some of which is the scala^ or ladder, the armorial bear- ings of the family. The origin of the family of the Scahgers, or more properly of the Delia Scalas^ is not known. We find them at Yerona in 1035. In 1257 two brothers, Bonifacio and Frederico della Scala, of the patrician order, were beheaded by Eccehno da Romano. Their fate first gave the name a place in history. In 1261, after the death of Eccelino, the unanimous voice of the people of Ye- rona, then a free town, raised Mastino della Scala to the ofiice of " Capitano del Popolo." He had been a soldier of fortune in the army of the tyrant. He governed Yerona wisely and mo- derately for 15 years. After escaping several state conspiracies, he was killed by some of the members of a disaffected family, who considered that he had aggrieved them by delaying the punish- ment of an offender against their honour (1277). This assassination took place under the archway in the Piazza dei Signori; which retains from that cir- cumstance the name of " il volto bar- ^aro'^ to the present day. The tomb of Mastino^ as it now exists, is a plain sarcophagus, orna- mented only with a cross. The canopy which covered it has been destroyed, and the stones employed for paving the church, whilst the sarcophagus itself was afterwards appropriated by a mem- ber of the Nogarola family. The ori- ginal inscription is, however, preserved. Mastino was succeeded by his bro- ther Alberto I., who, during 24 years, kept the turbulent factions in order, and sowed the seeds of commercial prosperity. These two superior men were the founders of the greatness of their house. Alberto, who had served as Podesta of Mantua, was exceedingly esteemed and loved for his pacific virtues ; and he was installed amidst the shouts of *' Yiva Alberto, assoluto oggi e per sempre ;'* and if any portion of the legal power of the old common- wealth had still existed, it now wholly expired. Alberto died in 1301. A sarcophagus standingon the ground, without inscription, is attributed to Alberto by immemorial tradition. Upon it is sculptured the Signore, riding in full state, with sword in hand. To Alberto succeeded, in 1301, his second son, JBarfolommeo^ a gentle and humane prince, who diedinl304. Inhis time (in 1302) lived Romeo de' Mon- tecchi, and Giulietta de' Cappelletti, or de' Capelli, immortalized byShakspeare. Upon the death of Bartolommeo, Alboino I. was called by acclamation to the supreme authority. Henry of Luxemburg was then prosecuting his plans for the re-establishment of the imperial prerogative; and Alboino in 1311, surrendering his authority as Capitano del Popolo, received it back from the Emperor as Imperial Yicar in Yerona ; a concession by which the dignity was confirmed to the family. Alboino, who had been originally intended for the church, was not well able to sustain the government, and he called in the assistance of his brother, Francesco, better known by the name Can Grande^ who was associated with him by the Emperor Henry YII. as joint vicar of the empu-e. Can- Vexetian Prov. Jioute29, — Verona: Cangrande. 301 grande was a Ghibelline in heart and soul ; and, whilst he acquired the pos- session of Yicenza, Padua, Feltre, Bel- luno, and Bassano, by force or policy, the grant of the vicarial powers gave a legitimate tenure to the dominions which he liad tlius obtained. The court of Cangrande was the most magnificent of the age in Italy, and exhibited a combination of military splendour and profuse hospitality and liberahty to the stranger, and en- couragement to literature. His palace became the refuge for all who, enter- taining his political opinions, had in anywise subjected themselves to per- secution ; and it was here that Dante found an asylum, having been first received by Alboino. Cacciaguida fore- tells to Dante his retreat, and describes the Court of Verona, and character of Cangrande, in these lines : — **Lo primo tuo rifugio, e il primo ostello Sara la cortesia del gran Lombardo Che in su la Scala porta il santo uccello ; Ch'avra in te si benigno riguardo Che del fare e del chieder, tra voi due, Fia primo quel che tra gli altri e piu tardo. Con lui vedrai colui che impresso fue, Nascendo, si da questa stella forte, Che notabili fien 1' opere sue. Non se ne sono ancor le genti accorte Per la novella eta ; che pur nove anni Son qneste ruote intorno di lui torte. Ma pria che 'I Guasco V alto Arrigo inganni Parian faville della sua virtute In non curar d' argento, ne d' affanni. Le sue magniticenze conosciute Saranno ancora si, che i suoi nimici Non ne potran tener le lingue mute. A lui t' aspetta, ed a suoi benefici ; Per lui fia trasmutata molta gente, Cambiando condizion ricchi e raendici ; E porterane scritto nella mente Di lui, ma nol dirai.''— Paradj^o, xvii. 53, 92. ** Thy first retreat, — first refuge from despair, — Shall be the mighty Lombard's courtesy, Whose arms the eagle on a ladder bear. His looks on thee so kindly shall be cast, That asking and conceding shall change place ; And that, wont first to be,'t\vixt you be last. With him shall one be found, who, at his birth, Was by this ardent star so fraught with grace, His deeds of valour sliall display his worth. Not yet his virtue by the world is known, So tender is his age ; for scarce nine years Around him have these rolling circles flown ; But ere the Gascon's artifice deceive Great Henry, he, all sordid hopes and fears Despising, shall a glorious name achieve. His deeds magnificent shall still proclaim His praise so loudly that his very foes Shall be compell'dto celebrate his fame. Look thou to his beneficence ; for he Of fortunes in such manner shall dispose, Rich shall be poor, and poor exalted be. Stamp in thy mind these words of prophecy, But be they not divulged." Wright's Dante% Can Grande, or the Great Dog, died in 1329. Many conjectures have been made to account for his strange nickname. The tomb of Cangrande I., exe- cuted by JBonino di Compione, forms a species of portal to the church of Sta. M. Antica. It is composed of three stories ; columns support it ; upon the sarcophagus the Signore is extended in his peaceful robes, girt with his sword : above, on a pyramid, is the equestrian statue of the warrior, in full armour. The sarcophagus rests upon figures of mastiff dogs supporting the shield charged with the ladder, the armorial bearing of the family of La Scala ; and the mastiff's head equally appears as the crest of the hehnet. Cangrande was succeeded by Alberto II., his nephew, the sixth della Scala who ruled Verona. The seventh was Mastino II., the nephew of Alberto. With him commenced the decline of his house ; and from his time the history of the family, instead of exhibiting statesmen and heroes, becomes a me- lancholy and revolting picture of mis- fortune and crime. Mastino II. was vain, weak, and unprincipled. He was surrounded by a brilliant court: Tre- viso, Yicenza, Bassano, Brescia, Parma, Eeggio, and Lucca, all acknowledged him as their lord; and he had won Padua from the powerfulfamily of the Carraras. Having abandoned the imperial party, he was fixed upon by Pope Benedict XII. as the head of the league or alliance of the Guelphs against the Yiscontis, the leaders of the Ghibel- lines. But he lost several of the most important of the possessions which liad been united under his authority, lie died in 1351. The tomb of Mastuio II., at one corner of the churchyard, also exhi- bits tlie double effigy ; the equestrian 302 Bte, 29.— Verona : Picture Gallery.. Sect. IV. warrior on the pyramid, and the recum- bent sovereign on the sarcophagus. This monument, executed by Perino^ a Milanese sculptor, dates from 1380. The eighth ruler, Cangrande 11.^ who built the Castel Yecchio, and the great adjoining bridge over the Adige, after a troubled reign of eight years, was murdered by his own bro- ther, Can Signorio, 1359 : and it shows into what a demoralised state Italy must then have fallen, when we find that such a crime did not prevent the per- pretator of it from succeeding to the government. He committed a second fratricide on his deathbed, the crime being instigated by liis desire of pre- serving the succession in his own descendants, which he feared might be endangered if Paolo Alboino, another brother, had been suffered to survive him. Next to ensuring the inherit- ance of Verona to his sons, his most earnest passion in his latter days (he died in 1375) was the erection of his most sumptuous mausoleum during his Lifetime, the artist being also Bonino di Comjpione. The tomb of Can Signorio, which forms four stories, also surmounted by an equestrian statue, is exceedingly elaborate. The plan is hexagonal and 6 Corinthianised Grothic columns support the lower story. The basC' ment is surroimded by an iron trel lis, of richer pattern than that of the rest of the cemetery. Upon the pilas ters which support it are the six war^ rior-saints, St. Quirinus, St. Valentine, St. Martin, St. George, St. Sigismund. and St. Louis. Beneath the gable of the third story are allegorical figures of virtues : Faith, with the star upon her breast; Prudence, Charity, and three others. TJie figure is recumbent upon a sumptuous sarcophagus. An inscription, in Grothic letters, preserves the name of Bonino di Campilione, who was both the sculptor and the architect of this sumptuous pile. These tombs stand in the old ceme- tery of Sta. Maria Antica, which had been the parish ch., the family burial- place of the Scaligers before they rose to power. The monuments are of white marble, in a style which is a mixture of the Pointed and the Lombard. There are fom- other sarcophagi of the Scali- gers in this cemetery, of the very early part of the 14tli centy., two belonging probably to Alberto (ob. 1301) and to his son Bartolommeo (ob. 1304). PINACOTECA, OR PICTURE GALLERY, VERONA. a. Entrance to Gallery from stairs. 6, c. Fa9ade overlooking the Adige. d. Great court of palace. I to XV. Different Halls of Pictures. Pinacoteca, Museo Civico, or the Pic- ture Gallery, formerly in the Pa- lazzo del Consiglio, has been removed to the Palazza Pompei alia Victoria, in the Via di Porta al Campo Marzo, facing the Adige, and immediately below the Ponte alle Navi, the lowest of the bridges on the river. The palace, a handsome edifice, the front con- sisting of a Tuscan or rustic base- ment, surmounted by an elegant Doric portico, was bequeathed by its last owner to his native town a few years since for its present purpose. Strangers are admitted on application to tlie cus- Venetiax Prov. Iite,29, — Verona: Picture Gallery, 303 tode, who will of course expect a fee. There is a very fiiii* printed catalogue. The several paintings are arranged in a handsome suite of apartments forming the upper floor ; in the lower one, are a series of casts from Canova's principal works, bequeathed by the Marquis Pinderaonte ; a very interesting collec- tion of fossil plants, and of fishes, from Monte Bolca, formed by the late Pro- fessor Massolongo ; several Etruscan and Roman antiquities, forming the collection of Count Yerita, &c. ; and in the Vestibule the great Bell formerly in the tower of the Piazza delle Erbe, and which was cast in 1370. The paintings, chiefly by artists of the Veronese school, and rarely to be met with elsewhere, are just such as will particularly interest the artistic traveller. There are nearly 600, of which the following are those most worthy of notice : — KoOM I. — 1, JBrusasorzi : the Virgin and Child. — 2, Bernardino India : the same subject, with Verona repre- sented as a Matron, with the pro- tectors of the city, SS. Zeno and Peter Martyr. — 5. Ottino : Battle on the Ponte delle Navi, where Can Grrande della Scala defeated his brother Frig- nano. — 6, TureM^ or Orhetto : Battle between the Veronese and Vicentines in 1212. A door from here leads into Booms II. and III., which contain specimens of the more ancient painters of the Veronese school — Badile, F. JBenaglia^ Girolamo Santa Croce, C. Crivelli, Mansueti^ &c. No. 43 is a good Madonna and Child, by C. Cri- velli. — 48, an ancona or triptych of the Virgin and two Saints, by G. JSenaglia. — 51, an ancona, in 5 com- partments, of the Trinity and Saints, bearing the date of 1360, by Turone. — 52, the Virgin with Saints, by Vittore Pisano. — 59, a good triptych, by G. JBadile, of the Virgin and Saints, witli a Crucifixion above. — 67, the Sibyl announcing to Augustus the Advent of the Messiah, by Falconetii. — 68, a curious collection of several small subjects from the Old and New Testa- ments, attributed, on most doubtful authority, to Cimahue. Re-entering Room I. is Room IV. 74, a Deposition, by Vaolo Veronese ; and 74, a good full- length portrait of Pace Gruarienti, by the same. — 77, a Holy Family, by Liherale di Verona. — 79 and 82, two subjects of the blessed Virgin and Child, by GioIJlno.—SS, St. John and 4 other Saints adoring the new-born Saviour, by F. Carotto. Room V. 90, a composition alle- gorical to music, in fresco, by Paolo Veronese. — 93, the Virgin and Infant Saviour, with numerous Saints, many of the figures being evidently portraits, by Cavazzola. — 97, the Surrender of Verona, on the Piazza di San Marco, to the Venetians in 1405, by Jacopo lAgozzi ; interesting for the numerous contemporary portraits. — 98, the Vir- gin and David, with the Wasliing of the Feet below, by Carotto. — Morone, the Trinity. • Room VI. contains a series of 10 paintings by Paolo Morandi, more generally known as Cavazzola. — Nos. 104, 106, 107, 108, and 109, are good specimens of tliis Veronese master. Room VII., numerous works of Ve- ronese masters, but none of great interest, and leads to Room VIII., a gallery round the court, the walls of which are covered with an extensive series of engravings, bestowed by Count Alessandro Pom- peii. In Rooms IX., X., and XI. that follow, there are no paintings of great interest, being miscellaneous works of Veronese artists. Room XII., a long gallery, contains two large historical subjects of local interest. — 181, the Victory of the Ve- ronese over the inhabitants of Mantua in 1168, at the Ponte del Molino, by Paolo Farinati; and, 183, the Delivery of the Keys of Verona in 1405 to the Venetian envoy Emo, by Sante Creara. Room XIII. has several works by Ottino. — 215, a Madonna with Saints, by P. Farinati.— 211 , St. Silvester baptizing Constantine, by Brusasorzi. — 219 and 224, an Annunciation, and the Victory of the Veronese over the 304 Route 29. — Verona: CasteV San Pietro, Sect. IV. inhabitants of Salo, on the Lake of Garda, in 849, both by the same painter. — Fasqualotti^ a Deposition. In three small rooms, XIY., XV., XVI., have been placed a miscel- laneous collection of second-rate Vero- nese paintings, given to the academy by Count Pompei ; as well as in 4 rooms on the ground floor : the most interest- ing amongst the latter being No. 328, a design on parchment, by A. Man- tegna^ representing a Pagan Sacrifice. The Museo Lapidario contains a Taluable collection of ancient marbles, disposed in a cortile adjoining the Teatro Filarmonico. It was begun by the Accademia Filarmonica in 1617 ; but it acquired its present importance from the exertions of the celebrated Scipione Maffei, who bestowed upon it his collections, add- ing to their value by the description which he published of them in the Museum Veronense. Many important additions have been subsequently made. This collection does not contain any objects of great merit as works of art ; but it is full of monuments illus- trating points of archaeology, and of local interest. The porticos under which these antiquities stand were built by the Philharmonics, each mem- ber contributing an arcade. The Castel Vecchio was erected in 1355 by Cangrande II. It is still a noble and pictm'esque pile, battle- mented at the top. Within, the qua- drangle has been much modernised, and some fine towers have been demolished, in adapting it to its present use as a military arsenal. Immediately adjoining the castle, which is on the banks of the Adige, is the coeval bridge, the Fonte del Cas- tello, also a picturesque object. It is of brick, turreted and battlemented. The arches are of unequal size ; the largest is about 161 feet in span. The views of and from this bridge are very fine. Upon the 1. bank of the Adige rose the CasteV San Fietro, where for- merly stood the palace of Theodoric; built in part of Roman materials. Late in the middle ages it retained much of its pristine splendour; and, as the most prominent structure of their city, the inhabitants caused it to be engraved upon their seal. As far as the character of this representation is intelligible, it agrees with the early descriptions, which state the palace to have been surrounded by porticos. Many parts of the building were demo- lished for the purpose of building the church of San Pietro, which contained several capitals, columns, and other fragments of the Gothic structure. In more recent periods (1393) Theodoric's palace was turned into a castle by Grian' Galeazzo, who obtained the lord- ship of Verona in 1387, when the do- minion of the Scaligers came to an end. But the Viscontis lost Verona in 1405, and other fortifications were added by the Venetians, to whom Ve- rona then became subject. The remains of the building were blown up by the French in March 1801. What re- mained after the explosion has been re- moved, and a fine barrack erected on the site, which forms a striking object in aU the views of Verona. A very convenient flight of steps leads from opposite the Ponte di Pietra, and no traveller who wishes to enjoy the mag- nificent panorama over the surround- ing country ought to omit to ascend to the terrace, from which, in fine weather, may be descried the great plain of the Adige and Po, studded with innumerable towns and villages, with the Tuscan and Modenese Apen- nines in the background. Beyond the ruins of the church of San Pietro are the remains of the Castel San Felice^ now crowned by a very strong fortress, which formed the summit of the angle in the old system of defences. This also was the work of SanmicheU. The Hmestone of the hill abounds in fossil remains ; and in the history of geology they are remarkable, as being amongst the first which excited curiosity, when a specimen of them was presented to the celebrated Fracastoro. He had read about them in Phny and Theo- plirastus, and he came to the con- clusion that they were not semblances, Venetian Prov. i?ou^e 29. — Verona: Cathedral 305 generated by the plastic force of nature, as was the opinion at the time, but had one day been real animals hving in, and deposited by the sea. Churches. — The Diiomo or Cathedral^ also called Sta. Maria Matricolare^ is attributed to Charlemagne, though it cannot be clearly shown by whom, or at what time exactly, the existing fabric was commenced. A church had been erected before the time of Charlemagne on the spot where the cathedral now stands, in honour of the Virgin, on the site, and with the materials, of a temple of Minerva. This church was repaired thirty years after Charle- magne's death by the Archdeacon Paci- ficus, as is mentioned in the inscrip- tion on his tomb. Had Charlemagne built a new church, it would not so soon have wanted repair, except owing to some accident, of which, however, there is no mention. The tradition of this church having been built in the time of Charlemagne may perhaps be accounted for by the episcopal chair having been transferred here in 806. A new sacristy was built in 1160, and in 1187 Urban III. reconsecrated the existing cathedral. We may conclude, therefore, that the greater part of the existing cathedral was rebuilt in the first half of the 12th centy. The apse at the E. end, and a portion of its sides, are in a very different style from the rest of the building ; so near a re- semblance to the Roman as to induce us to beheve that these portions are a remnant of the original church. The vaulting of the Duomo was begun in 1402, but not finished tQl 1514. In 1534 further alterations (the choir, screen, and the chapels placed along the S. wall) were made under the di- rection of Sanmicheli. The handsome porch must have formed part of the new building, and be- longs, therefore, to the 12th centy. Four columns, supporting two arches, one over the other, and the lower columns resting on griffons, support the porch. This mode of supporting columns seems to have been common in Italy in the 12th and 13th centuries. The celebrated Paladins, Roland and Oliver, who guard the entrance, may be sup- posed to have been introduced with reference to the traditionary connection of Charlemagne wdth this building. The Lombard imagery no longer ap- jDears as an ornament of the mouldings, but the underside of the arch which forms the vault of the porch exhibits a variety of grotesque images and symbols. On the 1. of the door, Orlando in his rt. hand holds his celebrated sword, upon the blade whereof its name is inscribed, divided thus into its four syllables, Du-rin-dar-da. His shield, straight at top, is pointed at the bottom, and ornamented with a species of Etruscan scroll-work. His 1. leg and 1. foot are armed in mail ; the rt. leg and rt. foot are bare. Oppo- site to him is his companion Oliver : his shield is like that of Orlando ; and he is armed not with a sword, but with a truncheon or mace, to which is appended a ball held by a chain. Such a weapon, supposed to have be- longed to him, was until the last age preserved in the monastery of Ronces- valles, thus showing the authority of the traditions according to which the sciilptures were formed. But the most remarkable circumstance is, that the combined peculiarities of the arms and armour of Roland and Oliver are found in Livy's account of the Samnite war- riors ; and the description which he gives is so singularly applicable to the costume of these statues, that we think it best to give the very words of the historian, in order that the tra- veller may compare them with the effigies which he will see before him. — " The shape of their shield was this ; broad above to cover the breast and shoulders, embossed with silver or with gold, flat at top, and wedgelike below, — ' spongia pectori tegumentum,' — and the 1. leg covered by the ocrea." — The "spongia" has puzzled the com- mentators, and Baker translates it by "a loose coat of mail;" but Maffei supposes that the spongia is the ball wielded by Oliver, and which represents, to a certain degree, a sponge in its form, 306 Route 29. — Verona : Cathedral. Sect. IV, In the semicircle over the entrance is an ancient bas-rehef, representing the Adoration of the Magi ; it has been coloured, and the blue ground is yet visible : beneath are three female heads, well executed, inscribed Fides^ Spes, Caritas. Among the grotesques of this portal may be noticed a hog standing upright on his hind legs, dressed in a monk's robe and cowl, and holding in his fore paws an open book, upon which is inscribed A. B. porcel — evi- dently a satire of the middle ages against the monks. The porch on the S. side of the ch. consists of two ranges of columns, with strange mystical or satirical sculptures. The more modern portions of the Duomo are exceedingly rich. Amongst the chapels, those of the Maifei family, and of St. Agatha, on rt. of high altar, are peculiarly elegant. In and about the Duomo are some remarkable monu- ments. — An inscription in the N. aisle commemorates the death and the works of the celebrated Pacificus Archdeacon of Verona (778-846). His name is written in three languages, — Paeificus, jSalomo7i, Irenceus. Seven churches were founded by him at Verona. He had great skill as an artist in wood, stone, and metal, and he also invented some machine for telHng the hour by night ; but there is no reason to sup- pose that a striking clock was intended. His epitaph also claims for him the merit of having been the first glossator of the Holy Scriptures. — Pope Lucius III., like many other of the medi- aeval pontiffs, was driven from his see by the disturbances of the unruly Ro- mans, and compelled to take refuge at Verona, where, after holding a very im- portant ecclesiastical council, he died (1185), and is buried here. A curious epitaph marks the place of his inter- ment. — An ancient sarcophagus, with the head of Medusa, was afterwards used as the tomb of a noble Venetian. Such adaptations often take place: at Pisa we shall find several. Amongst the more modern monimients is that of the Poet de Cesaris, with good sta- tues of Rehgion and Poetry, and sur- mounted by his bust. The Duomo formerly boasted of many fine paint- ings ; but several have been removed. The Assumption, by Titian^ in the 1st chapel on 1., has resumed its place here after travelling to Paris. This pic- ture needs no praise, for its beauties would strike the most careless observer. The manner in which the Virgin is represented as floating upwards is admirable. Others worthy of notice are — Moroni, St. Peter and St. Paul ; — Giolfino, the Last Supper; — Fari- nati, the Virgin and Child ; — Liber ale, the Adoration of the Three Kings. The bronze statue of our Saviour is by Giovanni Battista di Verona (fl. 1500). The presbytery in which it stands is by Sanmicheli, and the walls and moixld- ings are painted in fresco by Francesco Torhido il Moro^ from the designs of Giulio Romano. The chapel of S. Agata contains a fine sculptured shrine of the saint, of the 14th centy.; the pilasters at the entrance, covered with handsome arabesque reliefs, were exe- cuted in 1508 by Paolo del Abrio. The Baptistery, also called the chui'ch of San Giovanni in Fonte, is said to have been built between the years 1122 and 1135 ; the older baptistery having been destroyed by an earthquake in 1116. In the centre is a large octangular font, 31 ft. in circumference, hewn out of a single block of Verona marble. A frieze of small Lomoard arches, sup- ported by grotesque heads, runs round the summit. On the faces are represented the following subjects : the Annunciation, the Visitation, the Birth of our Lord, the Angels appear- mg to the Shepherds, the Adoration of the Magi, Herod commanding the Slaughter of the Innocents, the Exe- cution of his Decree, the Flight into Egypt, the Baptism in the Jordan. The sculpture is in a free forcible style. The picture of the Baptism of our Lord, over the high altar, is by Paul Farinati. The Cloister of the cathedral has been modernised in the upper story, for it had originally a double arcade. It has two ranges of arches in the height of the gallery ; each arch rests Ve^^etian Prov. Pioute 29. — Verona : BiUioteca Capitolare, 307 on a pair of columns, and each paii' is of a single stone, the capitals and bases being united. Adjoining is a fragment of what is said to have been a church be- fore the erection of the present cathedraL It is merely a rectangular room, with a groined vault supported on columns. The BihUoteca Capitolare^ wliich is entered from the cloister, is one of the important collections in Italy for sacred and Patristic literatiu'e. It was first formed by Pacificus, and con- tains a large proportion of very early manuscripts, some of the 4th and 5th centuries. Here Petrarch first read the Epistles of Cicero ; and the library is yet an miexplored mine for the histo- rical, ecclesiastical, and liturgical in- qnu'er. Many of the manuscripts are palimpsests, and one of them furnished the * Institutes of Caius,' compiled in the reign of Caracalla. It was known that this treatise was the foundation of the 'Institutes of Justinian,' but not a fragment of it coidd be found. " A rumour, devoid of evidence," says Gribbon, " has been propagated by the enemies of Justinian, that the jurispru- dence of ancient Rome was reduced to ashes by the author of the Pandects, from the vain persuasion that it was now either false or superfluous. With- out usurping an office so invidious, the Emperor might safely commit to igno- rance and time the accomphshment of this destructive wish. Before the in- vention of printing and paper, the labour and the materials of writing could be purchased only by the rich ; and it may reasonably be computed that the price of books was an hundred- fold their present value, 'Copies w^ere slowly multiphed and cautiously re- newed ; the hopes of profit tempted the sacrilegious scribes to erase the characters of antiquity, and Sophocles or Tacitus were compelled to resign the parchment to missals, homilies, and the golden legend. If such was the fate of the most beautiful composi- tions of genius, what stability could be expected for the dull and barren works of an obsolete science." — Gihhon. Years after the death of Gribbon his sagacity was verified by the zeal of Niebuln', who, when on his way to Rome in 1816, examined this library : two small fragments relating to juris- prudence, not palimpsests, had been published by Maffei, but he had not ascertained their author. Niebuhr suspected that they were parts of the * Institutes of Caius ;' and upon fur- ther examination he discovered the whole remainder, or nearly so, of this ancient text -book of the Roman law palimpsested beneath the homilies of St. Jerome, literally verifying Gribbon's words. At the instance of Niebuhr a learned German jm'ist was despatched to Verona by the Prussian G-overn- ment, and the result has been the pub- lication of the lost work. Of the other palimpsests is a Yirgil of the 3rd or 4th centy., under a commentary by St. Grregory on the Book of Job, in Longo- bardic writing of the 8th. It may be older than the Virgil in the Lau- rentian Library at Florence. The Biblioteca Capitolare also contains in- edited poems by Dante. Here also may be seen the baptismal certificate of Prince Charles Edward Stuart, the young Pretender, dated " Roma, ultima Decemb. 1720 ;" and a Diptych of the Consul Anastasius in the 6th centy. The Vescovado, or bishop's palace, has been altered and rebuilt at various periods, but principally about the year 1356. One of the courts with fanci- ful columns is striking, and this edifice exhibits in its more modern portions many curious modifications of the cinque-cento style, particularly in the portals attributed to Fra Giocondo. Many of the paintings have been car- ried off*, but in the Sala dei Vescovi a series still remains of the portraits, by Brusasorzi^ of the bishops of Verona from Euprepius to Cardinal Agostino Valerio in 1566 ; of course the greater nmnber are imaginary. In the principal court of the Vescovado stands a fine colossal statue of a crowned female holding a crov^Ti, with the artist's name, Alessandro ViUoria. Altogether there are about 40 308 Houte 29. — Verona : Sanf Anastasia, Sect. IV. churches in Verona ; the following are the most remarkable : — Ch. of Sanf Anastasia^ close to the Albergo delle due Torri, one of the most beautiful Gotliic churches in Italy. " It would, if the front were finished, probably be the most perfect specimen in existence of the style to which it belongs. It was built at the beginning of the 13th century, by the Dominicans.^^ The main fabric was begun in 1260, but the casing of the front not till 1426. The fa9ade was to have been enriched with bas-reliefs, but this work had been only begun. The inside consists of a nave and 2 narrow aisles separated by 6 pointed arches, terminated by an apse of 5 sides. The transepts are short, with 2 chapels opening out of each, and in the angle between one of them and the choir is a square tower, terminating in an octagonal spire. All the arches and vaultings are obtusely pointed. The springing of the middle vault hardly exceeds the points of the arches into the aisles ; and the windows of the clerestory are circular and very small. Its dimensions are V5 ft. wide, and 300 ft. long. The church is rich in paintings and altars ; and it appears to have been originally en- tirely covered with frescoes, but many of them are almost destroyed; those, liowever, in the spandrils of the vault- ing are very remarkable on account of their beauty and fine preservation. A few of the principal objects which it contains may be enumerated: — The two urns for holy water, sup- ported by grotesque figures ; the one on the 1. is by Gahriele Cagliari^ the father of Paolo Veronese, — The Fregoso Altar and Chapel, which Ya- sari, usually scanty in his account of Lombard art, considers as one of the finest in Italy ; Danese Cataneo, 1565, was at once the architect and sculptor of this monument. — The Altar of St. Vincent y 2nd on rt., built of rich grey marble, the pillars on each side of Fior di Persico ; the Patron Saint is by Rotari'. above is a curious fresco, in tolerable preservation, — The Ailtar of the Bevilaqua Lazise Family^ 3rd on rt. : Caroto^ the Body of our Lord, with the Maries weeping around., in fresco. — The Pindemonte Altar. — Caroto^ St. Martin : beyond it from the roof hangs the lower jaw-bone of a spermaceti whale. — Chanel of the Crucifix, 4th on rt. : a curious ancient piece of sculpture, a Deposition from the Cross. — Altar of the Centrago Family, 7th on rt. : the Virgin between St. Augustine and St. Thomas Aquinas ; an excellent pictm'e by Francesco Morone. — The Chapel of S. Gemignano, 8th, has fine frescoes (probably by Altichieri) connected with the Cavalli family, and a Gothic tomb. — Pellegrini Chapel, 9th : curious bas- rehefs, in terracotta, of the life of our Saviour ; they are of the 15th centy. The Descent from the Cross is the best, in which tlie artist has introduced a fine figure of one of the Pellegrini family Here are also two good Gothic monu- ments of the Pelegrinis, and some cu- rious ancient frescoes, in which portraits are introduced of members of the Ali- glieri and Bevilaqua families ; the best is that of the Virgin surrounded by Saints, with the Donatorio presented to her. Over the arch of the chapel is a St. George, much injured, by Vittorio Pisanello; the foreshortenings and pro- jections, as usual, remarkably skilful. — Sigh Altar : Torelli, the Death of St. Peter Martyr, imitated from Titian ; tomb of Cortesia Serego (1432), the brother-in-law and general of Antonio della Scala. — The Lavagnoli Chapel, 6th on 1. : cmious frescoes in the style of Mantegna ; and a fine tomb of the family. — Sacristy, out of 1. transept : over the doOr, a huge ugly picture, the Council of Trent, by Falcieri, with no merit as a work of art, but curious as a nearly contemporary memorial of that assembly. Within are some good pic- tures by Brusasorzi: the altarpiece with Saints, and portraits of members of the Dominican order. — Chapel of the Rosary, 5th on 1., built fi-om the designs of Sanmicheli : the altarpiece, in distemper, in a Giottesque style, contains portraits of Mastino II. della Scala, and his wife Taddea Carrara, Venetian Prov. Route 29. — Verona : Churches. 309 kneeling before the Virgin, injured by time ; the features of Mastino are re- markably expressive of liis character. — The Miniscalchi Chapel: Amongst its many decorations the principal is the Descent of the Holy Spirit, in fresco, by Giolfino. — Several cenotaphs have been erected in the ch. of S. Anastasia : of Cossaliy the author of the Storia Critica delV Algebra, a work of great merit ; CagnoVi, the mathematician; Targa, the translator of Celsus ; and of Lorenzi, a poet. Much of the marble called hron- zino is introduced into the ornaments of this church : it is not so called from its colour, but from the metallic sound which it emits when struck. The pave- ment is varied and beautiful, being formed of most tasteful designs in white, gray, and red marbles ; the wood- work of the principal door is well de- serving of notice from its chaste design. On the N. side of the square, before this church, is the interesting Grothic Chapel of San Pietro Martire, which, with the adjoining buildings, formed a part of the convent of Sant^ Anastasia. The edifice is now the lAceo, or college, an institution in which upwards of 500 pupils were educated, before they were driven from it by the Austrians to convert it into a barrack. Over the entrance, on the side of the square, is the monument of Guglielmo da Castelbarco (ob. 1320), the friend and adviser of the Scaligers, and one of the benefa<;tors of S. Anastasia, a lofty Grothic canopy, beneath which stands the sarcophagus. There are other tombs of the same description within the courtyard of the convent. Ch. of San Bernardino: monastic in its outward aspect, and flanked by 2 cloisters full of decayed and broken tombs. The ch. was built about 1499, after the great pestilence, and restored 1859. Ohs. its fine rood and organ- loft. The principal pictures are — ^on- signorij the Virgm between St. Jerome and St. George, dated 1488. His paintings are rare out of Mantua. — A very beautiful and interesting painting, the lower portion by Cavaz- zola, who died at the age of 31 (1522), while engaged on it. The upper division, by Morone, consists of the Virgin and Child, SS. Francis and Anthony, and Angels ; a group of Saints, including St. EUzabeth, who, according to the legend, sees the bread which she has distributed to the poor changed into roses : he has also intro- duced the portrait of the female donor. The Chapel of the Holy Cross has a Deposition, and other good paintings, by Cavazzolo. — Giolfino, some beautiful though damaged frescoes. In one of them the painter has introduced a view of the Piazza di Bra, as it stood in his time, an interesting topographical me- morial. Annexed to the church is the Capella Pellegrini, one of the finest works oi Sanmicheli. " The gem of this great master is the little circular chapel at San Bernardino, whose beauty, we think, has scarcely ever been surpassed, and which exhibits, in a striking de- gree, the early perfection of the Ve- netian school. It was not finished under Sanmicheli, and blemishes are to be found in it ; it is, nevertheless, an exquisite production, and, in a surpris- ingly small space, exhibits a refinement which elsewhere we scarcely know equalled." — Gwilt, The material is of a greyish white, showing exquisite workmanship : in the pavement some coloured marbles are introduced. In the upper cloisters, and in what was once the library, are some frescoes by Fran, Morone, discordant, however, in style, and from the red colour of the material perhaps of the ch. Ch. of Sta. lElena, adjoining the baptistery of the cathedral: some curious ancient tombs and inscriptions ; amongst others that of Theodorius, one of the cardinals of the time of Lucius III. ; about 1177. Paintings : Felice Brusasorzi, St. Helen and other Saints, a pleasing composition. — Libe- rate, St. Helen and St. Catherine, dated 1490. In the crypt is a curious early Christian mosaic. Ch. of Sant"* Fufemia, a building of the time of the Scaligers, but modern- 310 Route 29. — Verona : Churches. Sect. IV. ised. It contains several frescoes and paintings of the Veronese school, of which the best are those by Caroto, in the Chapel de^li Spolverini, They are considered as the finest of his produc- tions. In the middle picture of the altar are represented the three arch- angels ; in the side panels two female saints. On the side wall Caroto painted the History of Tobias : of these pictures the lower one is grace- ful ; the mother of Tobias embraces her daughter-in-law, while Tobias him- self heals the eyes of his bhnd father. These frescoes are in some parts pauited over and much injured. — In 3rd chapel on rt., D. Brusasorzi^ the Virgin in Glory ; below, St. Roch, St. Sebastian, and others. — In 1st chapel on 1., II Moretto, St. Onoprius and St. An- thony. There are also several monu- ments in this church. Two are remarkable from their connection with Petrarch — the tomb of Rinaldo di Villa Franca^ one of Petrarch's correspondents, and that of Pletro del Verme and lAiccldno his son. The lat- ter was a Condottiere of considerable fame, to whom Petrarch dedicated his treatise upon the virtues needed for a commander. Outside the cli., close to a side- door, (over which is a fresco of St^ Augustine, by Stefano di Zevio), the monument of Marco and Pier Antonio Verita^ by Sanmicheli, has much merit. The cloister is from the designs of Sanmicheli; but it is now used as a barrack. The antiquary and historian Panvinio and Cardinal Noris were Austin friars in the convent of Sta. Ilufemiaj and Fraccastoro was buried here* Ch. of San Fermo Maggiore. This church has the epithet of " Maggiore ^' from its size : it is, perhaps, the most interesting in Verona after the cathedral and San Zenone. Its foundation may be traced as far back as 751. The crypt ap- pears to have been built in 1065 ; and the massive piers and heavy vaulting are perhaps unaltered. The church is of brick with a good deal of ornament, and the rows of little aiv^lies are some of them trefoil-headed. The door in the facade is round-headed, with a pro- fusion of ornamented mouldings. It has no rose in the front, but, instead, are four lancet windows with trefoil heads. Over these is a smaller win- dow, divided by little shafts into three parts, and a small circular open- ing on each side of it. There is no tracery. The building ends in a gable, whosa cornice is loaded with ornament, with three pinnacles rising above it. The interior is in a fine and bold Grothic style, built between 1313 and 1332. The open roof is of wood. There is a curious sepulchral monu- ment of the 14th centy. in one of the chapels. San Fermo, originally belonging to the monks of St. Bene- dict, passed to the Franciscan friars in the 13th centy. San Fermo has some remarkable moniunents. In the chapel of the Ali- ghieris, in the S. transept, are two urns of the last members of the family of Dante. They were erected by Francisco Alighieri, sixth in descent from the poet, to the memory of his brothers Pietro and Ludovico. Francesco was eminent for his literary acquirements ; he was also much addicted to the study of archi- tecture, and made an excellent trans- lation of Vitruvius. Until its extinc- tion this family continued in great pros- perity and honour at Verona. Two of the descendants of Dante took his name ; and hence on the epitaph the father ojf Francesco and his brother are desig* nated as "Dante terzo." The wing, or Ala, in the shield of the Alighieris, is what is called in French heraldry an " armoirie parlante." It was a daughter of Francesco who married into the noble family of Serego of Verona, and which , under the name of Serego Alighieri, still represents the descendants of the great poet. Torello Saraina chapel, 3rd on rt., built by the historian of Verona of that name in 1523 : an excellent cinquecento specimen. — Tomh of the Torriani, erected about the beginning of the 16th cent., by Giulio, Battista, and Raimondo della Torre, to the me- mory of their father Girolamo and their Venetian Prov. Route 29. — Verona : Churches. 311 brother Marc Antonio. Eotli father and son were professors at Padua, and enjoyed the highest reputation. The monument, a lofty altar- tomb, was de- corated with bronzes, by Andrea Riccio or Briosco, the architect of the church of Sta. Giustina at Padua. The few ornaments, the bronze sphinxes and the portraits of the Torriani, which remain, are of great beauty : the prin- cipal bas-reliefs were carried otf to Paris, where they are fixed into a door of painted wood at the Louvre ; they have been replaced by copies. There is a ciu-ious monument to the memory oi Antonio Pelacani (or, skin the dogs), who appropriately took for wife Mahilia JPelavicini (or, skm the neighbours). He was a professor of medicine, who died in 1327, and is represented teach- ing, smTounded by his pupils. Many ancient paintings in and about the chm'ch have been whitewashed over. Among those which remain are the following : — a Crucifixion, supposed to be earlier than the tune of Cuna- bue. — Tl^ttorio Pisanello, an Annuncia- tion, executed about 1430 : the angel is represented as kneeling before the Vu'gin. The Adoration of the Magi : tliis painting is in a bad Hght. — Benaglla, the same subject. — Domenico Morone, St. Anthony of Padua. — Or- hetfo, the Nativity. — Caroto, the Virgin and Saints, dated in 1528. — JBarca^ a Pieta. — Coppa, an emblematical compo- sition, — Yerona supphcating the Yirgin for deliverance from the Pestilence. — Dondolif the last Supper. — Giovan Bat- tista del Moro^ St. Nicholas and St. Ago- stino. — Torhido, the Virgin and Saints. — Crema, tlie Virgin with St. Anthony and St. Brandan. — Caneiro, the Virgin with St. Peter and St. Paul. — Francesco Bonsignore^ the Virgin, with the Lady by whom the painting was presented kneeling before her, date 1484. — D. Brusasorzi, a Crucifixion, with the Virgin and Saints and the Magdalene. The Grothic pulpit, with fine frescoes of Saints and Prophets, by Stefano da Zevio, is remarkable. The sacristy and cloisters should also be visited. So also the crypt, with curious fragments of frescoes freed from the whitewash with which they had been long covered. Ch. of San Giorgio Maggiore^ at the N. extremity of the town, on the 1. side of the Adige, of very ancient foundation. Tlie interior, by SanmicTieli^ exhibits his talent and exuberant richness of fimcy. The adjoining convent was sold by the French, and is now almost whoUy demolished. In the church, ohs. the High Altar by Brugnoli, the nephew of Sanmicheli : the details are exquisitely sculptured. — Paolo Vero' nese^ a fine Martyrdom of St. Grcorge. The painter has represented himself standing next to the Saviour, and near him the members of his family. — Farinati^ the Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes, painted by the artist in 1603, at the age of 79. With many defects, this picture, which is of great size, is a remarkable performance. — The painter has represented himself on horseback on 1. of the spectator. Romanino^ St. George's various Martyrdoms. The fall of the Manna in the Desert, begun by Felice Bru- sasorzi^ and completed by Ottini and Orhetto^ his pupils. — Caroto^ the Annunciation ; St. Ursula, in dis- temper. — II Moretto, the Virgin and 4 female Saints. — Girolamo de^ Lihri^ the Vu'gin, two Bishops, and three Angels. Lanzi points this out as being a masterpiece in deUcacy of work and beauty of design. — Brusasorzi, the Three Archangels, supposed to have been executed in rivalry of the preceding picture. — Jacojpo Tintoretto, the Bap- tism in the Jordan ; a fine work in bad preservation, copied in mosaic at S. Marco in Venice. This churcli con- tains a profusion of other paintings, statues, and architectural ornaments, amongst which 4 paintings of difierent Martyrdoms of the Patron Saints, by Romanino, which once formed one painting. The gallery of the choir is in good wood carving. The campanile, by Sanmicheli, is a noble structure. Ch. of San Giovanni in Valle, on the hill beyond the Adige : prin- cipally remarkable for its ci^pt, which contains two very ciu-ious Chris- 312 RouU 29. — Verona : Churches, Sect. IV. tian tombs, in white marble, of an early date. Both are covered with sculptures : upon the one believed to be the most ancient, the prominent group includes our Lord upon a hill, whence issue four streams, which represent the four rivers of Para- dise. Nearly the same occurs in the several ancient mosaics at Milan, Ravenna, and Rome. St. Peter is on one side and St. Andrew on the other; — our Lord and the Woman of Samaria; — the Cure of the Demoniac; — Moses receiving the Law ; — Daniel in the Lion's Den. What might puzzle the antiquary are two figures of monks ; but these appear to have been added about the year 1495, when the tomb was discovered. The other is in a bet- ter taste as to art, but far less interest- ing as to subjects : it represents a de- ceased husband and wife, with St. Peter and St. Paul. Ch. of Santa Maria in Organo^ also on the 1. bank of the Adige, a very old chm'ch, upon the site of some still more ancient building, called the Organum, of the time of the Lower Empire. What this building was has been much disputed by antiquaries. It is doubtful whether it was an arsenal or a prison. The present edifice was principally built in 1481, as appears by an inscription upon the first column on the rt. hand towards the entry: the fa9ade is by Sanmicheli. Within the church, the following objects are worthy of remark : — the intarsiatura^ or inlaid wood-work of the choir, by Fra^ Giovanni^ an Olivetan monk, to which order this church belonged, was executed in 1499. Fra^ Giovanni is considered as the greatest master in this branch of art. In the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament is a candelabrum of walnut-tree wood, carved with beau- tiful grotesques. Paintings : G. de Li- hrly the Virgin, in fresco. — Brentana, the Discovery of the Holy Cross by the Empress Helena. — Giolfino, Subjects from the Old and New Testament. — Farinati, St. Peter sinking on the Waters; St. Grregory feeding the Poor. — JDomenico Brusasorzi^ the Resurrec- tion of Lazarus ; the Pool of Bethesda ; St. Jerome and St. John. — Caroto^ the Virgin, St. Vincent, and St. Maur. The sacristy, according to Vasari one of the most beautiful in Italy, besides the intarsiatura and carving of Fra* Giovanni^ contains some " beautiful studies, three half-figures in every com- partment (of wliich there are fourteen) of monks of the Olivetan order, all in white dresses, hooded, reheved on blue grounds, and all in the most per- fect condition. Eighteen lunettes con- tain each two portraits of the popes who have been elected out of this order. The blue grounds have been relieved by gilding, and have stood perfectly. These works are all by Mo- roni.^^ Among the portraits is that of Fra^ Giovanni^ over the door leading out of the sacristy. In the adjoining ceme- tery are curious ancient tombs. The campanile was erected in 1533 by the same Era' Griovanni. Sta. Maria delta Scala. The ex- terior is in a cinquecento style, by Fra^ Giocondo. It was first founded by Can- grande, and a fresco upon a wall which formed part of the original structure displays curious portraits of his nephews Alberto and Mastino adoring the Vir- gin, but so covered up as to be seen with difficulty. The church contains the tomb of Scipione Maffei, the liis- torian of Verona, perhaps the most able and judicious of Italian antiquaries, and who was also a dramatic poet of considerable merit. He died in 1755. There is a good monument to Bishop Ronconi (1816), and some curious early frescoes relative to St. Antony, near the high altar. Ch. of 8S. Nazaro e Cetso^ not far from the Porta Vescovo, in the suburb leading to Vicenza. The an- cient monastery to which this church belonged is partly destroyed, but in and about it are some remarkable rehcs of antiquity. In a small chapel, excavated in the side of an adjoining hill, are frescoes, probably of the sixth century, and good specimens of the style of that age. The subjects also which they represent are more Venetian Prov. Route 29. — Verona: Churches, In o than usually varied. The chiu'ch is partly from the designs of Sanniieheli, but unfortunately mutilated in their execution, the five arches wliich he contemplated having been reduced to three. It is filled with pamtings by Bni^a^orzi ; — amongst these liis favom-ite subject of a Choir of Angels, pamted on the doors of the organ. — FaoJo Farinati also contributed much to the adornment of this church. His fresco of Adam and Eve is thought to be one of liis best productions. — Canerio, the Descent of the Holy Ghost. The handsome chapel of S.Biagio (St. Blaise) at the extremity of the 1. transept, is pre- ceded by another of more recent date, painted by Falconetti. The chapel of St. Biagio is Gothic, its walls covered with frescoes, some of which have been attri- buted to Mantegna. The fine picture of St. Biagio and St. Sebastian, over the altar, is by Monsigyiori : the figures of the female samts, and especially of the patron saint holding a card (the instrument of his martyrdom), are very beautiful ; the predella beneath, repre- senting the martyi'dom of several saints, is a good work by Girolamo dai Libri. Ch. of San Sebastiano, formerly belonging to the Jesuits, and exhibit- ing that excess of decoration for which the churches of this order are remark- able. The front is after the designs of Sanmicheli^ and very magnificent. Al- most all the marbles found in the pro- vince of Yerona are employed in the sumptuous columns and decorations of the altars, the principal one being from the design of Padre PozzL There are several paintings, but none of great note. In tlie adjoining buildings is the municipal library, containing about 12,000 volumes. Ch. of San Stefano^ on the 1. bank of the Adige, near the Ponte di Pietra, built in the 11th century, has been much modernized. Its porcli resembles that of the cathedi'al ; and the central octagon tower also retains its original appearance. Twenty of the Bishops of "Verona are buried here; and it has been doubted whether it was not the original cathedral. There is a marble throne y. Itali/~IS69. for the bishop still existing. The crypt may, perhaps, date from the 7th cen- tury, having every mark of early Clu'is- tian antiquity : so have also two very remarkable sarcophagi ; the one of Pla- cidia, daughter of Eudoxia and Valen- tinian III., and wife of Olibrius Em- peror of the East ; the other (as is supposed) contains the remains of Mar- cian, a patrician, A.D. 427. — Amongst the paintings are^ Caroto, the Yirgin between St. Peter and St. Andrew. — Giolfino^ the Yirgin with St. Maur and St. Simplicianus, and St. Placidus. — Dom. Brusasorzi^ a very fine fresco : St. Stephen preceded by the Holy Inno- cents ; near here are remains of a fresco of the 14th centy., representing a Ma- donna and 3 Saints. Our Lord bear- ing the Cross. The Adoration of the Magi. — Ottini, the Massacre of the Innocents. — Orhetto, the Forty Mar- tyrs ; one of his best works. Ch. of San Tomaso Cantuariense^ in the island of the Adige. Tebaldo, a Bishop of Yerona, chose Thomas a Becket for the patron of this church in 1316, which has been repeatedly altered. The front is of the 15th century, partly from the designs of Sanmicheli: had these been followed the church would have been one of the finest of his productions. The prin- cipal doorway very fine. Here is the tomb of Qiovan^ Battista BeJcet Fdbri* ano, who claims to be of the family of the Archbishop, perhaps a descendant of some of those who followed him into exile. Paintings : Or&ef^o, Martha and Mary. — Felice Brusasorzi^ the high-altar piece ; the Yfrgin, with St. Thomas and St. Catherine. — Fari' natij St. Jerome in Meditation : good. In the sacristy is a fine painting, which has been ascribed either to Caroto or Garofalo. It represents the Infant Saviour and St. John playing before the Yirgin. The foreground is rich in flowers, the pink or garofalino being conspicuous amongst them. Ch. of San Zenone. — This is the most interesting example in Yerona of the Ecclesiastical architecture of the middle ages, and that which has undergone 314 Route 29. — Verona : San Zenone, Sect. iV. least change in the interior. It stands at the W. end of the city near the gate leading to Brescia. Intelhgent sacris- tan. The first church built on the site, in the beginning of the 9th cen- tury, by Eotaldus Bishop of Ye- rona, was much injured by the Hungarians 924. In 961 Otho II. passed through Yerona on his way to Kome, and left a rich donation in the hands of the bishop for its restoration. The new church, however, was not begun till 1138, and not finished before 1178. The plan of the edifice is that of the Latin Basihca, without tran- septs : the style is Lombard. The front is of marble : the sides are constructed with alternate layers of marble and brick. — " The fi'ont may be cited as a good example of the early architecture of this part of Italy : the general idea is that of'a lofty gable with a lean-to on each side, wliich, being the natm'al re- sult of the construction, is, if well pro- portioned, a pleasing form." — Woods. The principal feature of the front is one of the earhest wheel of fortune Avin- dows. It was executed by a sculptor of the name of BrioloUis, who also built the baptistery. An inscription in the baptistery records this fact, and speaks of the window as a work which excited wonder in those times. Its allegorical meaning is here made sufficiently • clear by the King at the top of the wheel, and the prostrate wretch at the bottom, and the verses both within and without, by which For- tune speaks and addresses the beholders. Mafiei gives the inscriptions : — En ego fortuna moderor mortalibus una Elevo, depono,bona cunctis, vel mala dono. This is on the outer circumference ; within is — Induo nudatos, denndo veste paratos, In me confidit, si quis, derisus abibit. The portal is a very rich specimen of those of the Italian cluirches in the 12th century. If in its decorations some lu- dicrous images are retained; the greater part of them attempt to imitate the more correct models of the Roman bas-rehefs. All the figures are rudely sculptured j but the arabesques, which enrich the divisions of the different compart- ments, are beautifully designed, and not badly executed. The rude bas- relief over the door is said to represent a depu.tation which was sent to San Zeno by the Emperor Galhenus. Im- mediately above the arch of the porch is a hand with the fore and middle fin- gers extended, and the two others bent, in the act of the Latin Benediction. On the flanks of the portal appear subjects taken from the Old and New Testament, — the history of Adam and Eve on the rt. hand, the principal events in the hfe of our Saviour on the other, explained in leonine verses in short epigraphs. With these are blended, as usual, subjects taken from ordinary life, and illustrating the man- ners of the times, — knights jousting at each other ; and below the first series is a representation of the chace, popu- larly called the Chace of Theodoric. The feet of the hunter, who is in Roman costume, are placed in stirrups ; and this, according to Maffei, is the most ancient piece of sculpture in wliicli they are exliibited. The dogs have seized the stag, and at the extremity is a grinning demon waiting for the hunter. Some lines underneath de- signate him as Theodoric, and, accord- ing to the vulgar notion, the infernal spirits furnished him with dogs and horses. This arose probably from his being an Arian. The bronze doors of the 9th cent, are very curious, consisting of a series of plates, 48 in aU, fixed on a pinewood frame ; the rehefs on them represent, in the rudest style of art, scriptural subjects, and are perhaps amongst the earhest specimens, as they are amongst the rudest, of Christian sculpture. The pillars of the portal, as usual, rest on the backs of animals — hons, symbohcal of the vigilance and strength of the church. Round the arch of the portal are symbolical representa- tions of the months of the year, begin- ning with March. It is to be regretted that this porch is much neglected ; and the group of Theodoric and the demon, in particular, is defaced by the urchins Venetian Prov. Route 29*— Verona : San Ze\ 315 who have punched holes in the marble, in order to " smell the brhnstone " which it is popularly supposed the fiend gives out by this process. The interior of the church is striking, from the gi-andeur of its proportions and its elevation. The nave is liigh, and is divided from the aisles, wliich are low, by alternate pillars and piers supportmg semicircular arches in pah's. From the piers ascend ribs, in the form of rude Doric pilasters, to sup- port the roof of the nave ; two only of these ascending shafts support a direct arch across the nave, and the arrangement is not calculated to sup- port any vaulting. The roof of larch is exceedingly curious, and elaborately ornamented, painted m faint colours ; at the extremity of the nave is the raised ch., wliich is reached by a dou- ble flight of handsome steps, as in some of the ancient basilicas ; the choir or tribune which terminates it is in the pointed style, and covered with frescoes ; but this part of the ch. was rebuilt in the 15th centy. The windows, like those in the early basi- licas, are of small dimensions. Many cm'ious relics of antiquity are dis- posed about the interior. Of these, the strangest is the statue of San Zeno, sit- ting in a chair, in the upper ch. San Zeno is the patron of Verona ; he be- came its bishop in a.d. 362, in the reign of JuUan the Apostate. He was an African by birth ; and the painted statue represents him as brown as a mulatto, though not with a negro phy- siognomy. He is in the attitude of giv- ing his benediction. On the opposite side is St. Proculus, executed in 1392. On thel. on entering the church is the Coppa dl San Zenone^ a vase formed out of a single block of red porphyry, the outer diameter of which is 13 ft. 4 in., the inner 8 ft. 8 in. ; and the pedestal is formed out of another mass of the same material. It is of high antiquity, and, according to the legend, was brought by the fiend from Syria, at the behest of the bishop. It originally stood on the outside of the chm'ch, and Malfei supposes it to have been in- tended for wasliing the feet of the pil- grims before entering the sacred edifice. On the wall of the S. aisle are a series of rude statues of Christ and the Apostles, of the 14th century. Many of the altars are adorned with pillars, taken, probably, fi'om some more ancient edifice. In particular, the Altar of the Virgin, 2nd on rt., may be remarked ; the columns here are com- posed of four smaller pillars fastened in a kind of true-lovers' knot, and resting on a winged bull and lion. A Roman inscription of Augusta Atilia Valeria, on the steps leading to the Tribune, is one of the few early. Christian ones which formerly aboimded in this city. Several frescoes, of perhaps the 12th or 13th centy., have been recovered from under the wliitewash, one representing the great flood of the Adige in 1239, and probably coeval with the event. A bas-rehef, representing two cocks carrying a fox dangling from a pole, considered as symbohcal of vigilance overcoming craft. There are few pic- tures worthy of notice. The best is by Mantegna, beliind the high altar, at the end of the choir, and amongst the finest works of the master, consist- ing originally of six compartments, wliich were all carried to Paris j only tliree have been restored, but these the most important. The center one represents the Virgin having the infant Christ on her knees, entlironed with Angels ; rich architecture, adorned in front with festoons of fruit, surrounds the composition ; the second, SS. Peter, Paul, and John ; and the third, SS. John the Baptist, Lawrence, and Bene- dict. There is also a remarkable sarco- phagus in the crypt, perhaps of the 9th cent., serving as an altar- table : it has sculptures on 3 of its sides. Under the choir there is a spacious crypt, the semicircular groined roof of which is supported by 40 pillars, with capitals of various forms, the main piers on each side of the choir being continued downwards through it. In its recesses are dispersed nume- rous fragments of ancient frescoes and bas-reHefs, the tombs of Eupreprius P 2 316 Route 29. — Verona : Palaces. Sect. IV. and Crioinus, and of SS. Proculus and Agabins, bishops of Yerona, and the stone sarcophagus containing the bones of St. Zeno, discovered in 1838. The double flights of steps leading from the nave to the crypt deserve notice from the handsome coupled shafts of red Verona marble which support the two arches on the N. side. The ch. of St. Zeno is so much below the level of the surrounding ground, that it is entered by 10 descending steps. The effect on entering by the principal door, and looking down into and along the nave below, is very grand. The cloister of S. Zenone consists of brick arches, pointed on the E. and W. sides, ch-cular on the two others, sup- ported on coupled columns of red mar- ble, united by a little appendage of the same substance at the necking of the column and at the upper torus of the base. On the N. side is a projecting edifice, sustained by double columns of different diameters, those at the corners being more massive. It served as a lava- tory, and formerly contained a large basin for the monks to wash before en- tering the refectory. The cloister con- tains many tombs, some which always stood here, others brought of late years from suppressed churches. Here are the tombs of Giuseppe delta Scala, of whom Dante speaks, and of Ubertino delta Scala^ superior of the Benedictines, and prior of this monastery. This beautiful cloister is falhug into ruin ; the pavement destroyed, and the monu- ments mutilated, having been dese- crated : it was converted by the Aus- trians into a cavalry stable, and at a later period in a corn- store. On one of the walls is a fresco of the Infant Saviour, attributed to Mantegna. Adjoining the cloisters is an old church, built in the same manner as the one which stands close by the ca- thedral, with groined semicircular arches supported on four pillars, aU unlike, dividing it into nine equal squares. The campanile or bell-tower of San Zenone is one of the most beautiful edi- fices of its kind, and one of the finest objects in the very varied landscape about Verona. Begun by Abbot Alberi- cus in 1045, it was completed in 1178, and is entirely detached from the ch. at its eastern extremity ; it is built of alternate zones of brick and marble, surmounted by a double gallery of Lombard arches, and these again by a low conical spire and 4 turrets. The adjoining cemetery, from which the church and its campanile may be conveniently examined, contains an ancient and singular monument. De- scending by a flight of steps, at the bottom stands a mediaeval sarcophagus. Over the entrance is an inscription, ap- propriating it to Pepin King of Italy, the son of Charlemagne, who died at Milan A.D. 810. The urn is remarkable, and evidently belonged to some person of distinction ; but the inscription is modern, and was put up by a priest in the course of the last century. The water found in the tomb, caused by the percolation of the rain, is thought to possess medicinal virtues by the lower orders. " Sanmicheli's most admired works are his Palaces at Verona ; the general style of composition, very different from that of the palaces of Florence and Eome, is marked by the use of a base- ment of rustic work, wherefrom an order rises, often with arched windows, in which he greatly delighted, and these were connected with the order after the manner of an arcade, the whole being crowned with the proper entablature. The fa9ade of the Pompei palace is a good example/'-^ Gwilt, Palazzo Bevilaqua^ in the Corso, would have been beautiful; but, like our Whitehall, it stands merely as a spe* cimen of an entire design. It did contain a splendid collection of an- tiquities, which have been dispersed. They are now chiefly in the G-lyptotheca at Munich. Near it stands the Palazzo Canossa, also by Sanmiclieli. This palace, belonging to one of the most influential famiHes of Verona, was begun in 1527, by Ludovico di Canossa, Bishop of Bayeux, in France. His armorial bearings are on the front. It was not completed Venetian Pnov. Eoute 29. — Verona : Palaces ; Theatres, 317 till 1560. It oontains some tolerable paintings ; tlie best are by Britsn- soreij Farinati, Orheti't^ OioIJiuo, Pisa^ nellOj Sec. Palazzo Fortaltipi, near the latter. Its Ionic front, which is of the 18th centy., is handsome, but OA'crcharged with ornament. Palazzo Maffei, now Tresa, in the Piazza delle Erbe, a noble eleva- tion of three stories, more laboured than the style of Sanmicheli, but very effective; the construction of the staircase is remarkably bold. The collection of the Maffei family is dis- persed, but one good statue of Serapis remains. The Maffei family of Verona has recently become extinct in the male line. Opposite to the amphitheatre, m the Piazza di Bra, is the Palazzo delta Gran Cruardia^ a fine building. It was built by Andi'ea Midano, a pupil of SanmicheH, as appears from an in- scription lately discovered. Palazzo Giusti, on the declivity of the hill overlooking the Adige. The gardens are well laid out, and the view over Verona is very fine. The front was painted by P. Farinati. It is now occupied by public offices. Palazzo degli Emiliiy near the ch. of S. Anastasia. Some good pictures ; amongst them the Adoration of the Magi, by Orbetto. Palazzo MiniscalcM. The exterior is painted in fresco by Tullio d' India and Aleprandi. Amongst other sub- jects is the feast of Damocles. Under the stables of this palace are Roman vaults used as prisons by Fceelino da Romano. The Moscardi Collection or Museum, a good collection of armour, amongst which is that of Cangrande della Scala, is now here. The son of the present owner. Count Miniscalchi Erizzo, has also added to the treasures of his parental house a valuable collec- tion of Oriental MSS. made during his travels in the East. Palazzo Catarinetti^ near the latter, is a good specimen of the house archi- tecture of the 15th and 16th centuries : the balco]iy at the corner of the street is very handsome. Palazzo Guastaverza, now Sjpara- vien. One of the most graceful produc- tions of Sanmicheli: the management of the rustic work is peculiarly able. Palazzo Guarienti. Painted on the outside by Farinati. Palazzo Sagramoso. Several good pieces by Orbetto and Felice Prusa- sorci. Near it are some remains of Roman walls. Palazzo Gazzola. An extensive col- lection of Monte Bolca fishes, and other geological specimens. Theatres. The Teatro Filarmonioo is open durin'g the autumn and Car- nival : for operas only during th-e for- mer, for operas and ballets during the latter season. The other theatres are — the Teatro Nuovo^ in thePiazzalSravona; the Teatro Valle ; and the Teatro Castellani, an open-air one, near La Grranguardia. Verona and Shakspeare are, of course, associated in the mind. The Montecchi belonged to the G-hibelhnes ; and as they joined with the Cajppelletti in ex- pelling Azo di Eerrara (some short time previous to 1207), it is probable that both were of the same party. The laconic mention of their families, which Dante places in the mouth of Sordello, proves their celebrity : — " Vieni a veder Montecchi e Cappelletti Monaldi e Filippeschi, uom senza cura, Color gia tristi, e costor con sospetti." Furgatorio. vi. 107. **Come, see the Capulets and Montag-ues,— Monaldi — Filippeschi, reckless one ! These now in lear — already wretched those." Wright's Dante. The tragic history of Eomeo and Juliet cannot be traced in any written document earlier than the time of Lungi di Porto, a novelist of the 16tli cent. The Casa t?e' Cappelletti, now Os- teria del Cappello, an inn for vetturini, in the Via Cappello, may have been the dwelhng of the family ; an old brick house, with a balcony and picturesque rounded windows : inside the courtyard is engraved on the keystone of an arch a Cappello somewhat like a cardinal's 318 Route 29. — Verona : Neighbourhood. Sect. lY. hat, probably the armorial bearing of the family of the Capulets. The house is now the abode of squahd families. With respect to the tomb of Juhet, it certainly was shown in the last century, before Shakspeare became generally known to the Italians. That tomb, however, has long since been destroyed; but the present one, in the garden of the Orfano- trojio^ does just as well. It is of red Yerona marble, and, before it was pro- moted to its present honour, was used as a washing-trough. Maria Louisa got a bit of it, which she caused to be divided into hearts and gems^ elegant necklaces, bracelets, &c.,tind many other sentimental young and elderly ladies have followed her Majesty's example. The Public Cemetery, outside the Porta Vittoria, contains several good modern monuments ; like those of [Brescia and Vicenza, it is in the form of a large square surrounded by arcades with vaults and monuments, the poorer classes being interred in the centre. H. F. Mlinster has a good shop for books, photographs, and general in- formation. Cesconi, for old books. Scdesio Pegrassi, for marble carving applied to chimney-pieces, friezes, and works of art. Antonio Conconi, for specimens of local marbles. Plan for visiting the Sights of Verona in 1 or 2 dags, and in to]pographical order. Ch. oi S. Anastasia ; DuoMO; Yesco- vado, and Bibhoteca Capitolare; Ch. of S. Eufemia; Piazza dei Signori ; Pal. del Consiglio ; Piazza delle Erhe ; Ch. of S. Maria I'Antica, and Tombs OP THE ScALiaEES ; Corso ; Arco dei Porsari; Piazza Bra; Arena; Arco de' Gavi ; Museo Lapidario ; Castel Yecchio, and Bridge ; Chs. of S. Ze- NONE, of S. Pernardino ; Porta Nuova. Ch. of S. Feemo MAaaioRE ; Ponte alle Navi ; Pal. Pompei ; Pinacoteca, and other collections in it ; Campo Santo ; Ch. of >S'. Tomaso Cantuarense i Pal. Giiisti and Gardens ; Chs. of SS. Nazzaro e Celso, S. Maria in Organo, S. Giorgio, and ;S'. Giovanni in Valle ; Barracks and Castel di S. Pietro ; Ch. of S. Giorgio Maggiore ; Castel di S, Fehce ; Ponte di Pietra. Neighlourhood of Verona. Towards the Adige, and on the N., are Gargagnano, where Dante is said to have composed his Purgatorio, and where he possessed some property, a villa, which afterwards passed into the Serego Alighieri family. It is in a wild and picturesque situation. Sanf Amhrogio, a httle to the E. of the road, about 2 m. before reaching Yolargne, on the road from Yerona to the Tyrol : near it are quarries from whence much of the red marble of Ye- rona is obtained. The workmen of these quarries are remarkable for their clever- ness as masons and sculptors, which arts, as at Como, they foUow from fa- ther to son. San Giorgio, a mile and a half N.E. of St. Ambrogio, upon a lofty hill, ap- parently easy of ascent, but in fact very difficult, whence it has the name of " Inganna poltroneJ'^ Here is a good Lombard church, where columns and inscriptions of Liutprand were found. The mountainous districts to the N., the Monti Lessini, afford a variety of interesting excursions, such as that to the Ponte di Veja, to which a road passes up the Pal Pantena, through the pleasant villages of Quinto, Grez- zano, and Lugo. It can be taken on horseback or in a light carriage. At Quinto, on his way to the Ponte, the traveller should stop for the pur- pose of visiting the sanctuary of Santa Maria delta Stella. Beneath the church is a very curious Eoman crypt, which the Italian antiquaries have supposed to be a cave dedicated to Mercurius Trophonius (a creation of their own), but which, in 1187, was consecrated by Pope Urban III. A heathen altar or Roman sarcophagus, now in the crypt, Venetian Proy. Route 29.— Monte Bolca. 319 may have been brought from its vici- nity. The floor exhibits the remains of a beautiful mosaic : a stream of very pure and limpid water, which still flows into tlie crypt in the original Koman conduit, and tlie remains of other Ro- man constructions adjoining, may pos- sibly lead to the supposition that the cave of Ti'ophonius was originally a bath. Grezz,ana^ in the Yal Pantena. The Villa Cuzzano^ near Grrezzana, is a good and unaltered specimen of an old Itahan mansion, and contains frescoes by Paolo Veronese. In the vicinity of Marzana are Ro- man remains, an aqueduct, and other buildings. Val Policella and Val Pantena are filled with villas, the summer resi- dences of the rich Veronese. The wmes of the Yal Policella have a local celebrity. The chief place in it is the large village of S. Pietro in Cariano. In a deep ravine, near the head of the Yal Pantena, is the Ponte delta Veja, a natural arch, beneath which rushes a cascade. The span of the arch is about 150 ft. : you can walk along the summit, of which the breadth varies from 10 to 15 ft. Beyond is the village of Sant^ Anna^ a secluded spot. An excm-sion to the Monte Bolca^ which, going and returning, will be about 40 m., also includes many objects of varied interest. Soave, the town nearest the Yicenza road, is a good specimen of Scaligerian fortification : the surrounding walls and gates, as wtII as the castle, are more than usually perfect. Diverging by the by-road which branches off" on the 1. at the St. Bonifacio Rlwy. Stat, to Monteforte, following the Alpone torrent 4 m. farther, you approach the valley of Ponca. The rocks of the Val Cunella^ which opens into that of the Alpone, I arc composed almost wholly of beds of shells, whilst the neighbourhood pos- ! sesses some very remarkable basaltic ' formations. Returning to the Alpone, and following it upAvards to S. Gio~ . vannl llarione^ fi'om which a road, still following the torrent, leads to Bolca, passing the Monte del Diavolo, a mass of basaltic columns : here the pillars are mostly inclined at a con- siderable angle ; others are curved, and others broken off*, so as to form an horizontal pavement. Continuing onwards, at Vestena Nova the basaltic prisms are very lofty and erect. In one part they form a cliff nearly 50 ft. in height, down w^hich the torrent Alpone pours a beautiful cascade. The basaltic columns are called the Stan- glielUni^ a name similar in its etymo- logy to the Hebrides Staffa^ for Stanga means a pole or staff*. About 3 m. further is the Monte Bolca, called La Purga, the largest and most singular deposit of fossil fishes yet discovered. The mountain, wliich is of a conical form, is partly formed of basalt. The impressions of the fish are found in the schistose strata, which gives out, when broken, a bituminous smell. A lignite of inferior quahty is found here in the same ter- tiary marine strata under the basalt. With respect to the fossil fishes, it must be observed that the same in- genuity which supphes the antiquary with Othos, equally inspires to the geologist the rarest and most extra- ordinary specimens; that is to say, they are imitated in such a manner as to deceive any ordinary eye ; they are cleverly manufactured out of the dis- jointed fragments of several diiferent species. Grood specimens may be bought of the custode of the Amphi- theatre at Yerona; but they are not cheap : and the high price is explained by telling you, which is tolerably cor- rect, that it is a rare occurrence, amidst the numberless fragments im- bedded in the schistus, to find anything approaching to an entire individual. The province of Yerona abounds in obj ec of great singularity and interest. 320 Route 30, — Verona to Mantua^ Sect. IV. Amongst the works of art the ancient feudal castles are remarkable. Of those which are of the era of the ScaHgers, and more or less in the style of the Castle of Verona, some are noticed in the different routes ; but there are many more in parts of the country oiit of the beaten track of travellers. ROUTE 30. VJIRONA TO MANTUA, BY VILXAFEANCA. — BAIL. KIL. KIL. Dossobuono . . 10 I Roverbella . . 29 ViUafranca . .IV Mautua. ... 36 Mozzecane . . 22 j 36 kil.= 22 Eng. m. 3 trains daily in IJ lir. The country on the rt. of the road is celebrated as the scene of some of the most bloody actions between the Pied- montese and Austrians in 1848. It passes near to Santa Lucia and Somma Campagna, from which Charles Albert blockaded Radetsky in Verona, to Cus- tozza, where, after a most sanguinary and protracted contest, the Piedmontese were worsted on the 25th of Jidy, and obhged to recross the Mincio ; and by ViUafranca, the head- quarters of the King of Sardinia during a part of his invasion of the country around Verona in 1848. 10 kil. Dossobuono Stat., near a straggling village on right. 7 kil. ViUafranca Stat, At Villafranca is a fine castellated structure. It was founded in 1199 by the Veronese ; but the present building is of the 14th century. Villafranca has acquired a celebrity in the diplomatic history of Europe as the site of the negotiations between the Emperors of Erance and Austria, which ended in the conclusion of the convention which put an end to the last war on the 11th July, 1859. [From here a cross-road of 5 m. leads to Valeggio and Borghetto^ on the Mincio. Overlooking Borghetto, and on the opposite side (east) of the river, is the Scaligerian Castle of Valeggio, with a very lofty dongeon. Valleggio and Borghetto constitute an important military position, as affording an easy passage of the Mincio. Here the French crossed m August, 1796, after the battle of Castiglione; the Pied- montese in 1848 — the Austrians on both occasions retreating to Verona ; and again the French in pm^suit of the Austrians, after their defeat at Solferino on the 24th June, 1859. Va- leggio, a village of 2000 Inhabitants, in the midst of a rich silk district, is on the edge of the great plain of Mantua. But the most remarkable feature of the place is the fortified bridge or causeway between it and Borghetto, built in 1393 by Gian' Graleazzo Visconti, who has in this fabric exhibited his favourite pas- sion for architectural magnificence. His engineers availed themselves of a Eoman substructm-e, upon which they erected tliis raised causeway or viaduct, at each end of which was a lofty gate tower, and in the centre the bridge over the Mincio ; the latter has long been broken down. The length of the causeway is 602 yards, battlemented on either side like the bridge at Verona, and defended by lofty turrets. It cost 108,182 golden zecchins of Venice.] 5 kil. Mozzecane Stat. The coun- try about, and hence to Mantua, consists chiefly of irrigated meadow- land. 7 kil. Boverhella Stat. The town, a large wealthy place, is at some distance on the right of the stat. : here they show the house in which Napoleon lodged in 1796, during the military operations between the Adige and the Mincio, and the siege of Mantua, 7 kil. Mantua Stat. Mantua : Itahan, Mantova. — {Inns: L'Aquila d'Oro, fair. La Fenice, united to la Croce Verde ; charges high, and attendance complained of (1862). Both are in the Contrada della Croce Verde. The railway stat, is 2 m. from the Venetian Pkov. Bmde 30. — Mantua, 321 RALAZZa bED TB Churches. 1. Duomo or Cathedral. 2. S. Andrea. 3. 8. Barbara. 4. S. Bamaba. ."i. S. Maurizio. ti. S. Sebastiana Public Buildings, &c. ; 7. Palazzo Ducale. 8. Prisons; Archives. 9. Theatre of the Court. 10. Teatro Sociale. 11. Amphitheatre. 12. Piazza di S. Pietro. 13. „ delle Erbe. 14. Botanic Garden. 15. Palazzo del Te. THE mmi Qt (HE IIKIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS Venetian Prov. Route 30. — Mantua : Tlie Gonzagas, 323 town, but omnibuses start to meet each train to and from the different hotels ; fare ^ a Hra. Diligences to Parma erery morning in 8 hi*s., by way of Casahnaggiore, and to Reggio in 6. Morctti Foggia, a chemist, keeps EngUsh medicines, Mantua is siu^rounded by lakes and marshes, adding at once to the strength of this ancient city and to its insalu- brity. The latter, however, has some- what diminished, the marshes hav- ing been partially drained. This was effected by the French. The tlu'ee por- tions of the lake are called the Lago di Mezzo, Lago Inferiore, and Lacjo Su- 2)eriore, formed by the swelling out of the Mincio, and maintained by artificial dams and embankments ; they are crossed by six bridges, or chaussees. Mantua stands on the "smooth- sHding Mincius." " Propter aquam, tardis ingens ubi flexibus errat Mincius, et tenera praetexit arundine ripas." In fact, the city is situated on two lands, between which the river flows, and from its situation amid the flat and sedgy banks of the Mincio its climate is anything but healthy : inter- mittent and low fevers are frequent in the autumn, and it has no claims to natural beauty; but it contains many fine buildings, and remains of works of art, called into existence by its former sovereigns. The Gronzagas, first Lords, or Cap- tains, in 1328 ; next Marquises, or Margraves, in 1433 ; and lastly, cre- ated by Charles Y. Dukes of Mantua, in 1530, were men of great talent, and possessed extraordinary munifi- cence and energy; and in the 16th centy. ^^ Mantova la Gloriosa^^ was one of the most rich and gay of the courts and cities of Italy. The Gon- zagasy but more especially Griovanni Francesco II. (from 1484 to 1519), and Federico II. (1514-1540), who first obtained the ducal dignity, were mag- nificent patrons and promoters of the arts and of literature. Their successors continued to govern with much wis- dom ; and Mantua became one of the most opideiit and flourishing cities of Lombardy, when the death of Yin- cenzio II. (1627) was followed by every kind of calamity. It seemed thence- forward as if the house had become fated, Francesco lY. having died with- out male issue after a reign of ten months, the duchy devolved upon Car- dmal Ferdinando, his brother. It was more than doubtful whether he had any right to the duchy, for Mantua, had not been declared a male fief; and it was considered that Maria, his niece, was the lawful heh\ Ferdinand, having by papal hcence resigned his cardinal's hat, married twice. By his first and secret marriage with Camilla Reticina he had one son ; but Ferdi- nand procured the marriage to be dis- solved; Jacintho Gonzagawas declared illegitimate, and liis father married Catherine of Medicis ; but he had no children by her ; and, on his death in 1627, the duchy was claimed by the branch of the Gonzagas settled in France, then represented by Charles Duke of Severs. The right was con- tested ; and the Emperor Ferdmand II. claiming to dispose of the duchy of Mantua as an imperial fief, the country was invaded by Altringer, Colalto, and Gallas, names written in blood in the history of the thirty years' war. Duke Charles, was ne- glected, and almost betrayed, by the Yenetians, and feebly supported by the French. On the 8th April, 1630, the imperiaUsts laid siege to the town : famine and pestilence raged within ; but the duke defended himself bravely ; and the inliabitants, knowing what would be their fate, aided with the ut- most valoiu' and desperation. On the 18tli July, when the gaiTison was re- duced to 1000 fighting men, the city was taken by storm, and during three days was given up to plunder. The Germans on this occasion executed their work of devastation with great system aad regularity ; they got exceed- ingly drunk ; they neither killed a man. 324 lioi'M 30. — Mantua : Siege, Sect. IV, nor insulted a woman, nor burnt a house : but tliej stripped the town of everything which it contained. The plunder was valued at 8,000,000 ducats. Previous to the siege the duke had sold large portions of the Gronzaga collec- tions. The plunder of the city dis- persed the remamder, with the excep- tion of such of the marbles as remain in the museum. The best portions were taken to Prague. They were afterwards purchased by Christina Queen of Sweden, who carried them to Bome, where they remained until they were obtained by the Regent Duke of Orleans, and became the fomidation of the Orleans gallery. Carlo Gronzaga I. regained his duchy by submission to the emperor ; but Mantua never recovered from the blow. Population has increased of late years ; there are now about 35,000 Inhab., upwards of 3000 of whom are Jews, by whom a great proportion of the trade is carried on. The Gronzagas were in the last century deprived of then* possessions by the jurisprudence of the feudal ages. Carlo IV. having unfortunately joined the French in the war of the succes- sion, the Emperor Joseph I. placed him under the ban of the empire, and seized his dominions. The duke fled, and died at Padua in 1707, not without suspicion of poison ; and the Emperor Joseph, declaring the lief to be for- feited, united it to liis own dominions. The last of the Gronzagas, still a resi- dent here, was a pensioner of the Aus- trian Grovernment until its faU. The Austrians added to the fortifications, and Mantua became, what it is now, one of the greatest strongholds in Italy. Hence, in 1796, after the fall of Milan, Napoleon immediately endea- voured to make himself master of Mantua, as the bulwark of the Aus- trian dominions, and without the pos- session of which the conquest of Lom- bardy never could be secure. The siege was begun 14th June, 1796, by a blockade ; but the forces of Serriu-ier were only sufficient to keep the gar- rison in check, and the French could not prevent the occupation of the city by Wurmser, after his defeat at Bassano. About September the Austrians were shut within then* walls. Wurmser then killed all his horses, and salted their carcases. Four unavailing attempts were made by the Austrians to reUeve the garrison. After the failure of the last, Mantua could no longer hold out. One half of its numerous garrison was in the hospital : they had con- sumed all then' horses, and the troops, placed for months on half-rations, had nearly exhausted all then* provisions. In this extremity Wiu^mser proposed to Serrurier to capitulate : the French commander stated that he could give no definite answer till the arrival of the general-in- chief. Napoleon, in con- sequence, hastened to RoverbeUa, where he found Klenau, the Austrian aide- de- camp, expatiating with Serrurier on the powerful means of resistance which Wurmser enjoyed, and the great stores of provisions which still remained in tlie magazines. Wrapped in his cloak near the fire, he overheard the conver- sation without taking any part in it, or making himself known. When it was concluded, he approached the table, took up the pen, and wrote on the margin his answer to all the propo- sitions of Wm^mser ; and when it was finished, said to Klenavi, " If Wurmser had only provisions for fifteen days, and spoke of smTcndering, he would not have merited an honourable capi- tulation ; but as he has sent you, he must be reduced to extremities ; but I respect liis age, his valour, and his misfortunes. Here are the conditions which I offer him if he surrender to- morrow ; should he delay a fortnight, a month, or two months, he shall have the same conditions : he may wait till he feels he can do so with- honour to himself. I am now about to cross the Po to march upon Rome : retm^n, and communicate my intentions to your general." The aide-de-camp, who now perceived that he was in the presence of Napoleon, finding that it was useless longer to dissemble, confessed that they had only provisions left for THE imm Of m WHIViBSITlf 9f {tkmi% 326 Route 30. — Mantua : Ducal Palace, Sect. IV. PLAN OF THE BUILDINGS OF THE DUCAL PALACE IN MANTUA. L A G O I N F E K I O R E. 1 Piazza Arche. 2 Scuderie Rcali. 3 Cda. Ducale. 4 Cda. Giorgio. 5 Cda. del Duomo, 6 Seminario. a Scalcheria. h Camera degli Arazzi. c Camera del Zodiaco. d Galleria degli Specchi. e Giardino pensile. / Corridor leading to the Corte Vecchia. References to the Apartments, g Sala de' Marmi. h Sala and Appartamento di Troja. i Corte Vecchia. k I Castello, now Archives, m Sala with portraits of the Gonzaga family. n Gallery. Appartamento Stivali. p Appartamento Paradiso. q Passage leading to the Ca- thedral, r House of B. Castiglione, three days. The terms of capitulation I were immediately agreed on; IS'apo- leon set out himself to Florence, to conduct the expedition against Rome ; and Serrurier had the honour of seeing the marshal, with aU his staif, defile before him. On taking the city, the French committed many excesses. It was retaken after a bombardment of four days by the Austrians in 1799. In the centre of the city there is much appearance of commercial ac- tivity ; but the grass grows in the out- skirts, and the marks of ruin, too visible Vex. Prov. E. 30. — Mantua : Casfello di Corte ; Palace. 327 upon many of the buildings, attest the misfortunes which Mantua lias sus- tained. Yet many interesting memo- rials remain, to remind us of its ancient splendom\ There are no large squares, but great masses of buildings, liuge piles casting deep shadows, feudal towers cro^^'ned with then* forked bat- tlements, castles and Lombard arches, form a scene of peculiar and novel character. The assemblage of bmldings which, beginnmg at the Porta di San Gior- gio, extends from the Piazza di S. Pietro to the Lag-o Inferiore^ is remark- able. The fii'st object is the ancient Castello di Corte^ the palace and fortress of the Gronzagas, built by Francesco Gronzaga IT., Capitano of Mantua, be- tween the years 1393 and 1406, the arcliitect being Bertolino Novara. It is flanked by deeply macliicolated and noble towers, but battered and decayed. It was used by the Austrian s partly as a prison, chiefly for poHtical ofienders, and partly as public offices. The archives contain documents reaching as far back as the early part of the 11th centy., and all those relative to the Gronzagas are deposited here. The in- terior was richly decorated with fres- coes, which were perfect till the con- quest of Lombardy by the French ; now only a few vestiges can be traced in some of the rooms, occupied by the pubUc offices. Of these the most inte- resting are in one of the rooms now used as a council-room, 1, on the wall on 1. of the entrance a man and boy holding a horse and dogs ; 2, the fine picture of Ludovico Gronzaga, and his wife Barbara and tln-ee children ; 3, over the door a beautiful group of 3 Angels holding an inscription: all these frescoes are by Andrea Man- tegna. In the coves of the cefling are heads in chiar'-oscuro of the Caesars, also by Mantegna. Another room has a border representing, in small but animated groups, cliaces of wild ani- mals and of fabulous creatures ; and and in the rest of tlie neglected cham- bers similar traces may be seen of past grandeur. Adjoining the Castello di Corte is the immense edifice begun inl302,by Gruido Buonacolsi, siu-named Boticella, tliird sovereign lord of Mantua, now compris- ing the so-called Palazzo Imperiale, Pa- lazzo Vecchio, and Corte Imperiale, and containing, it is said, 500 rooms. Of the older building, however, Uttle besides the front, with its Gothic arches and windows surmounted by machicolated battlements, and the arms of the Buo- nacolsi in the capitals of some columns, is now in existence. Several artists had employed their talents upon it before Giulio Romano was called upon to transform it entirely, and exhibit new proofs of the inexhaustible powers of his genius. Since his time many other artists have contributed in vari- ous ways to its embellishment. In fact, for the grandeur of its masses, fop propriety, invention, and decorations of every kind, for the solution of the most perplexing problems in architec- tural and pictorial arrangement, for the skilful adaptation of designs to the most uninviting and embarrassing spaces, we know no edifice of this kind either in or out of Italy which ap- proaches this imperial residence, or which displays such varied resources to the student of decorative art. This Palace was the favourite residence of the later members of the ducal house. The Emperor Joseph bestowed much care upon it, several of the rooms were furnished anew during the French occupation and by the Austrians to receive the Emperor Francis ; many retain much of their former splendour, but a great proportion have been con- verted into storehouses and barracks. The genius of Giulio Romano^ whether as a painter or an architect, is nowhere displayed to greater advantage. The front of the Cavallerizza, and the Giardino pensile, on a terrace, so as to be on a level with the upper floor, and surrounded with richly painted loggie, are especially deserving of attention. Tlie order in which the state apart- ments are shown is nearly as follows: — The Camera del Zodiaco, from the painting of the Signs of the Zodiac by 328 Route 30. — Mantua : Ducal Palace. Sect. IV. Giulio Romano^ and amongst whioli Orion is introduced : the two children representing the twin offspring of Orion and the Moon in the centre are very beautiful. Camere degV Arazzi, 4 in number : on the walls are extended a set of ta- pestries from the Cartoons of Kaphael at Hampton Court, and the Conversion of St. Paul, and the Martyrdom of St. Peter ; both fine, but not equal to that of St. Paul preaching at Athens. " The tapestries are surrounded by painted borders of allegorical imagery, and there is a painted ceiling : all have the finest effect."— i. G. The stucco ornaments of the doors and wood-carvings are from designs by Primaticcio. On the opposite side of the court- yard to the Camere degl' Arazzi is the G-alleria degli Specchi, or ball-room, with some fine Yenetian glass painted by Griulio Eomano's pupils. The great audience-chamber, whose ceiling is up- borne by magnificent consoles, is in- teresting ; and still more so is another, the Galleria de Quadri, containing the long series of Ca^itani, Marquises, Dukes, Princes, and Princesses of the Gonzaga family, and some very indif- ferent paintings, one attributed to Luini, A suite of rooms is kept well furnished, but the greater part are empty and desolate ; and in tlie back part of the building, deserted cortiles, and blocked-up windows, and springing vegetation, are sad and dreary memo- rials of Mantua's decay. In the interior, the chamber called the ^^ Ajppartamento di Troja^^ is prin- cipally painted by Griulio Momano^ per- haps partly by Mantegna. The works were begun in 1524, by Federigo Gron- zaga, the first Duke of Mantua, and he employed Baldassare Castiglione to make the needful arrangements with the artists. It leads to the Sala di Troja, which is painted entirely by Giulio Romano. These chambers, as the name imports, contain passages from the liistory of the Trojan war, and are in tolerable preservation. " In this room, painted by Giulio Romano, in fresco, his characteristic invention is powerfully conveyed. Ajax, transfixed with a fiery arrow by Minerva, is strongly and vividly expressed. Mi- nerva retiring looks back with scorn upon the impotent rival of her fa- vourite Ulysses. When Paris con- ducts Helen to the ship, the natural feeling of the characters is admirably portrayed. The lover is manly, and is earnestly persuading his fair heroine to embark : she, though not unwilling, yet looks back to her attendants who bear her attire, with true female feehng, to see if her adornings are in seciu'ity : all is bustle and activity. The frescoes of Laocoon and his sons, and of the completion of the Trojan Horse, are weak, and yet again, in that of Achilles dragging Hector at the back of his chariot, the very spirit of vengeance seems to inspire liim. In colour 'and effect it is as bad as it can be, and this work is by no means so finished as his labours in the Palazzo del Te." — Fhillips, R.A. Adjoining these chambers is the Sala cle' Marmi (so caUed from a num- ber of masterpieces of the Grrecian chisel which once adorned it), very richly decorated. It is of the time of Griuho Romano. . This is connected by a gallery, running along one side of the CavaUerizza, with the Appartamento Stivali, painted by Giulio Romano and Primaticcio. Near this last is the apart- ment called " II Paradiso," containing some curious ancient cabinets, yet re- taining the initials of Isabella d^^ste^ wife of Francis III. Marquis of Man- tua, equally celebrated for her beauty and her intrepidity. The ceilings of most of the apartments are of wood, richly ornamented with carvings and stucco-work, by Primaticcio. They are very curiously varied : in one room the ceiling represents a labyrinth, with the inscription ^^forse die s\ forse che no" repeated in each meander. The Sala de' Mori is the richest ; it is blue and gold. The Scalcheria, or room of the seneschals, contains an exquisite specimen of a richly decorated ceiling, said to be one of the first paintings Vexetun Prov. Route 30. — Mantua : Churches, 329 wiiich Giulio Eomano executed in Mantua. The conception is beautiful, and tlie execution most careful. The figure of a female, with a genius, in the centre, looking over a balustrade, is painted in oil, and attributed to Mau- tegna. • Tlie pleasui'es of the chace, or sports of Diana, in the lunettes, are amongst the most elegant inventions of Griulio Romano. Opposite to the palace with its Gothic windows, stands the palace of B. Castiglione, the author of the Corte- giano; it has a fine gateway with sculp- tured arabesques ; on one side of which is the bishop's palace, and on the other that of the Gruerrieri family. Close to the latter is an ancient tower annexed to the palace wliich formerly belonged to the Buonacolsis ; it was built in 1302 by Boticella. About half-way up pro- jects an iron cage, from whence this building derives its name of Torre della Gahhia. According to the tra- ditions of the city, when any criminal deserved to be put to shame, he was exposed in this cage for three succes- sive days, and for three hours each day. The cagmg of criminals was very com- mon in Italy (see Piacenza, p. 448). On the captiu'e of the city h^| the French, the cage was taken down, but replaced afterwards by the direction of Napoleon ; the tower itself commands a fine prospect over the town and the lake. The Torre dello Ztcccaro, hard by, is also fine of its kind, and interesting as a memorial of the ancient factions by whom the city was ruled and divided. The Palazzo della Ragione was begun in 1198, in the age of Mantuan independence, and completed about 1250. It is a fine specimen of the civil architecture of the time. A large archway of brick and stone forms a prominent feature in this building. Inserted in the wall is a Grothic throne and canopy in terracotta supported by twisted and facetted columns. Beneath this canopy in a niche is a mutilated sitting statue of Yirgil, a figure wearing the cap of Rector of the people, holding an open book ; it dates from the early part of the 13th century. From this building rises a lofty campanile with a cm'ious astronomical clock upon "the Dondi plan (see Padua), but of rather later date, having been put up in 1478. It has a great number of comphcated movements, now out of order. It is in the neighbom'hood of this Palazzo that the city is most un- changed. In the neighbouring Piazza d'JErba may be seen. No. 2388, a small but beautifully decorated house-front in terracotta resting on a portico supported by Corinthian columns. The DuoMO, dedicated to St. Peter, has been much altered. One side-wall, exhibiting a series of Gothic gables, separated by pinnacles of moulded brick and all ricldy ornamented, shows the original style. The fine Lombard ' campanile is also standing. The in- terior was rebuilt by Giulio Romano, The arches of the aisles rest upon Corin- thian pillars : the roof of the nave is flat, with riclily ornamented compartments. Except a fresco by Matitegna, now co- vered with glass (and that partly co- vered by another picture), there are no paintings of any pecuhar merit in tliis building. The Chapel della Mado7ina Incoronata^ by Alberti, is fine. The Chapel of the Virgin is richly decorated. In the 1st chapel on 1. is an early Chris- tian sarcophagus, with figures of the 12 Apostles. The Basilica di Sanf Andrea is among the finest existing specimens of an inte- rior in the Italian or revived Roman style. It was designed by Leon BaUisfa Alherti. The cupola, by Juvara, was begun in 1732, but not completed till 1781. The ch. is about 310 ft. m length. It contains many good frescoes by the scholars of Mantegna. In a crypt be- neath the high altar is a shrine where are preserved the blood of om^ Lord collected by the Centurion Longinus, and the remains of the latter. The vaultmgs of the aisles of this church are very bold and skilful. Mantegna is buried in the first chapel on the 1. of San Giovanni, erected at his expense. His bust in bronze by SperandiOf erected in 1516, ten years after Man- tegna' s death, by Ludovico Gonzaga, 330 Route 30. — Mantua : Churches ; Palaces. Sect. IV. is an excellent piece of workman- sliij5. Tlie eyes are said to have been formed of diamonds. In the chapel of the Virgin is a Holy Family, with St. Elizabeth, by Mantegna. The other good paintings are — L. Costa^ a Holy Family; — Guisoni, a Cruci- fixion, in 3rd chapel on 1. Several of the monuments are worthy of notice, either for their beauty, or on account of the persons to whose memory they are raised. Frospero Clementi of Reggio, a pupil of Michael Angelo, sculptured the tomb of Giorgio Andreassi. — The Cantelmi monument, in rt. transept, of curious architec- tural construction ; the memorial of Pietro Pomponazzo, who enjoys an unfortunate celebrity — his renowned work on the -Immortality of the Soul, pubUshed at Venice in 1516, having laid him under the imputation of atheism, a charge not dimmished by his having had Cardinal Bembo as a defender. The great portal or entrance of the church is deeply recessed. It has also the remains of a fresco by Mantegna. In the chapel of the Holy Sacrament, in the 1. transept, is the fine monument of Pietro Strozzi by Griuho Romano. In the 1st chapel on 1. is an early Christian sarcophagus, with figures of the 12 Apostles. The fine brick Grothic campanile belonged to the original basilica. The Ch. of St a. Barhara, within the Ducal Palace, was built by Bertani^ a scholar of G-iulio Romano. Over the high altar is the Martyrdom of the pa- tron saint, by Brusasorzi. This is a collegiate ch., exempted from the juris- diction of the bishop, but immediately under the papal see; and the liturgy has some pecuharities of its own. The archives are extensive and curious. The once rich sacristy still contains a few objects of value ; the most remarkable is a golden vase, delicately chased, attributed to Benvenuto Cellini. Sanf ^gidio, a small ch. near the Darsena, contains the sepulchral slab of Bernardo Tasso. San Maurizio, formerly S. ISTapo- leone. Here is the Martyrdom of St. Margaret, by Ludomco Caracci: the figm'e of the Saint is beautiful. Near this is the ch. of San Francesco, a fine building of the 14th or 15th centy., but now desecrated, and converted with its convent into artillery stores and bar- racks. San Sehastiano, now closed, erected by B. B. Alherti in 1460 ; a specimen of the revived Roman style : it offers some good but dilapidated frescoes by Mantegna. Opposite stands the house of Mantegna, the gromid on which it stands having been presented to him by Duke Lodivico Gronzaga, with an honorary inscription ; by the side of wliicli is the Porta Pusterla leading to the Balazzo del T. A cm-ious specimen of ancient engi- neering is the Argine del Mulino, the bridge, or rather dam, constructed in 1188 by Alberto Bitentino. It stands between two of the pieces of water which surround Mantua, one of wliich, being of a higher level than the other, serves as a great milldam, and turns the wheels of the twelve mills which flank the bridge and are severally dedicated to the twelve Apostles. Each miU has the statue of its apostle. The bridge itself is covered, and is entered by a fortified tower or gateway, in which is a beau- tiful pointed window, divided by a central mulhon. Near the Fort a Mu- lino is a saw-mill, which is, perhaps, the earliest example of such machmery. It was built by Girolamo Arcari in 1400, and it is still in active operation. The Beccheria and the Besclieria^ the shambles and the fish-market, stand upon the Mincio, so that they are always clean. They were built by Griulio Romano; and, whilst the plan is exceedingly simple, he has given them, and more especially the Beccheria, no inconsiderable degree of architectural beauty. The Balazzo Colloredo in the Via Larga, the widest thoroughfare in Mantua, was built by Bertani from the designs of Griulio Romano. The front is supported by enormous caryatides of bold sculpture. Within is a profusion of frescoes by the scJiolars of Gixdio Venetian Prov. Route 30. — Mantua: Public Buildings. 331 Homano. Amongst tlicm arc introduced many curious portraits of soveroigns and princes: Francis 1., Charles YIII., and other French kings ; Giovanni de' Medici ; NicoloIII. Marquis of Ferrara ; and Francesco IV. Marquis of Mantua. In the same street, and nearly oppo- site to the Palazzo Colloredo, is GiitUo Romano's house ; the front is of an elegant and chaste design. Over the door is a statue of Mercury, or rather a fragment restored by G-iulio Eomano and Frhnaticcio. The attri- butes of the heathen gods are intro- duced in various parts of the building. Giulio Eomano was buried in the neighbouring ch. of S. Barnaba, in whicli there are 2 good paintings by Lor. Costa and Maganza^ but the place of his grave is imknown. The Palazzo del Diavolo, nov^^ having a dreary, deserted, and haunted look, is said to have been built by the fiend in the course of one night, he having been constrained thereto by the di- vining rod of hazel, wliich in Germany used to be employed for the discovery of treasures. The exterior was painted by Pordenone^ but it is now cut up into shops and dwellings, and has little remarkable except its name. Near the Palazzo del Diavolo is theTeatro Sociale, built by Canonica, a handsome modern construction, in the Cor so di Porta Pra- della, a fine wide street leading to the gate of that name, and through which the road to Cremona passes. The Accademia delle Belle Arti, founded in 1775, is now merely a draw- ing-school. It contains some pictures from suppressed churches and convents. There is a good copy of the " Notte " by Correggio ; but the gallery does not pretend to great names. Our Lord bearing his cross, by Francesco Mon- signore, is amongst the best in it. The Scnole Puhhliche were formed out of the Jesuits' College. The library contains about 52,000 printed books, and a few curious MSS. : some beautifid missals, and one with pen-and-ink drawings hj Andrea Man- tegna. Here is a very fine Rubens, formerly in the church, representing fom' members of the Gonzaga family in the act of prayer. The Museo Antlquario^ or Patrio^ is a long and narrow gallery, filled with Roman and some few Greek statues and fragments, of which the greater portion, it is said, were part of the plunder collected by Lodovico Gonzaga at the sack of Rome. It used to be considered the first col- lection in Italy, a rank it can no longer maintain ; though it certainly contains some good specimens. — Three fine bassi- rilievi, representing the submission of a province, a sacrifice, and the marriage of an emperor, supposed to be Lucius Ve- rus. Several Imperial busts, amongst them a fine Caligula. The Battles of the Amazons ; Death of Penthesilea. The Sun (not Apollo) surrounded by other di- vinities. Euripides. Tliales. TheDescent of Orpheus. Medea. A Cupid Sleeping, attributed to Michael Angelo, and also said, like some other of his productions, to have been passed ofi* by him for an antique. Virgil's Chair, that is to say, a very ancient bishop's throne of marble. The bust of Virgil, a calm, beautiful countenance with long flow- ing hair. There was, anciently, in the market-place of Mantua, a statue said to be Virgil, and representing him sit- ting on a throne, holding his works in one hand, and raising the other, as in the act of declaiming. This statue be- came the object of a species of worsliip; and when Carlo Malatesta, in 1397, occupied Mantua, a conscientious scruple induced him to break the idol in pieces and cast its fragments into the lake, the head only being saved. It is evident, whatever may be thought of the story, that this head never could have belonged to a statue, inasmuch as it is part of a Term, and, in the next place, it is equally evident that it is not Virgil, but a young Bacchus, or some similar mythological personage. The Ponte di San Giorgio crosses the entire lake, and is upwards of 2500 ft. in length. It was built in 1401, and was anciently covered like a Swiss bridge. The view of Mantua from 332 Route 30. — Mantua : Palazzo del TL Sect. IV. hence, towers and cupolas, and the great mass of the castle, is peculiar. The Piazza Virgiliana was formed out of a swamp, drained and planted by the French ; it is yet dark and rather dreary. At oneendis the^^^/z^ea^ro Vir- giliano^ budt 1820, for shows and games. Outside the walls and a few ]mn- dred yards beyond the Porta Pus- terla is the Palazzo del Te. Permis- sion to see it must be procured at the Pah Ducale. Various accounts have been given of the origin of the name of this palace, but the only one wliich seems to deserve credit is that of Grabrieh Bertolazzo (the author of a description of Mantua, the 2nd edition of which appeared in 1628), who ascribes it to the form of the roads and avenues by which it was ap- proached, which were so arranged as to produce the capital letter T. All the old authors, beginning with Yasari, write it del T, and not, as in modern times, del Te ; which affords a con- firmation of this view. The Palazzo consisted originally of stables, and the Marquis Federigo Gi-onzaga intended to make this building an unpretending country-house, with one single large room besides the necessary accommo- dation ; but Giulio, in acquitting himself of his commission, showed so much taste, that the Marquis de- cided upon transforming and extend- ing the new house into a splendid palace, and thus gave the artist an opportunity of applying, in harmonious combination, his powers as architect, painter, and sculptor. Giulio executed tliis great work, with the assistance of his pupils Primaticcio, Gr. B. Pagni, and Rinaldo Montovano, in the short space of five years. The prin- cipal building, with the large court in the centre, forms a square, each front being about 180 ft. outside, and about 120 ft. in the court. The order of architecture is throughout Doric, tastefully exhibiting all the variety of which this style is susceptible. The hall opposite the principal entrance leads over a bridge into an extensive parterre, which ends with a semicir- cular wall, portioned out into 15 niches, probably for statues. At each ex- tremity of this wall was an exquisite apartment of small dimensions, com- posed of a grotto and a loggia^ with which a small flower-garden was con- nected. The one on the 1. is still in a tolerable state of preservation : the other was destroyed more than a century ago, by being used as a guard-house. The principal rooms of the palace are the following, in the order which the visitor is shown over them : — Small apartment on rt. of entrance, with plaster reUefs by Primaticcio and his scholars. Camera del Cavalli. — Pictures of Gonzaga's horses. This is the oldest part of the building, and that which gave such dehght to G. Romano's pa- tron. The ceiUng, which is of wood, is finely carved in compartments. "I was struck with the great truth shown in the imitation of the horses, six in number, of the natm^al size, painted in this room. The two bays are nearly as perfect in preservation as could be desu'ed, while the three white, and remaining one, an iron grey, have suf- fered much. These are said to have been also painted by the pupils of Griulio Romano, B. Pagni and Rinaldo Montovano, fi'om the designs of their master." — /S. A. Kart^ Pi. A. Camera di Psiclie. — Rich in frescoes, oil-paintings, and stuccoes, illustrating the story of Psyche from Apuleius. " Subjects of deep pathos, of sub- lime allegory, are here treated with the hand of a master, in all that relates to poetic imagination and in- vention in design. The pictorial is wanting to render them agreeable, though it is in this room that Griulio Romano has evidently put forth his strength in force and depth of colom\s, and in effects of light and shade, par- ticularly in Psyche offering her fruits and flowers to Yenus, in her receiving the grapes, in the discovery of Cupid by Psyche, and in some of the beauti- fully composed figures of the lunettes. These pictures are in oil, and therefore Ve>jetia>^ Prov. Route SO.—Mantna : Pcdaz-o del Te, 333 he could woi*k on tliem to effect more folly than in fresco, and they are so treated, but are far too black. The laige pictures below are in fresco, and are rich indeed in the important qua- lities of imagery, invention, and design, but -woefully wanting in colour, effect, and harmony." — Prof. Phillips^ R.A. " G-. Komano's pupils, Benedetto, Pagni, and Kinaldo Montovano, are said to have painted the ceiling in oil from the designs of their master. These paint' ings are tm'ued black and heavy, espe- ciaUy in the shadows ; a remark which cannot with equal truth be appHed to the subjects in the room beneath in fresco, in which not more than a cer- tain depth is indulged in, calcidated to give space and light to the apartment. The ceiling, on the contrary, looks low."— ^. A. PLart, R.A. Camera del Cesari contams 2 frescoes in the lunettes, by G-iulio Romano : Alexander discovering the writings of Homer, and restormg the wife of Mar- donius. ' Camera di Faetonte. — So called from the oil-painting of the fall of Phaeton, on the vaidt. The distribution of this small room is as tasteful as its execution is exquisite. Camera del Zodiaeo^ o delV Astro- nomia. — On the ceihng, in stucco, are the winds and the 12 signs of the zo- diac : the occupations of the seasons are painted in 16 medallions. The Atrio, or Loggia forming the principal entrance. — Passages from the life of David, executed by G-iulio' s scholars. The medallions in black stucco by Primaticcio. A cannon-ball fell through the vaulting during the siege of 1796, injxuing the frescoes of the fall of Phaeton. Sala de* StuccJii, in which there is a double frieze executed by Primaficcio, from designs of Giulio Romano^ repre- senting the triumphal entrance into Mantua of the Emperor Sigismund in 1433, who the year before had created Gian Francesco Gonzaga Marquis of Mantua. The arched ceiling is equally rich in stuccoes. Sala del GigantL — The most cele- brated of the series : it was chiefly exe- cuted by Rinaldo Montovano ; a small portion only was the work of Giulio Ro7nano, who furnished the designs. Jupiter, amidst the heathen gods, Irarls his thunders upon the Titans, who, in different actions, terror, danger, and impending death, cover the four walls, down to the very floor. The giants in the foreground are represented 12 or 14 ft. high. Most contradictory judg- ments have been passed on these paint- ings. Yasari, Borghini, and all the earlier writers upon art, praise tbem exceedingly ; and Lanzi considers him as rivalling Michael Angelo. Others have thought that they havebeen praised far beyond their deserts. "Colossal figures in a small room, even where the idea of a supernatural size is in- tended to be conveyed, are unsatis- factory, as the spectator is quite near enough to perceive details, and finds none, except those belonging to the execution of the work, which ought not to be visible. This unpleasant effect is produced in the ' Sala de' Gi- gantij' by Giulio Romano, at Mantua." — EastlaJce. " The hall of the Giants would oc- cupy a month to understand, or convey thoroughly the quantity of matter, of feeling, of allegory, and poetry which it contains The taste of the work is displeasing, and unfit for the adornment of a palace : but the power of imagination exhibited in it is of the most extraordinary kind. Most of the figures are of superior order in action and in form, though some are coarse and offensive. The grouping is often exceedingly beautiful, particu- larly so in that of Cybele, Ceres, Her- cules, Merciu'y, &c., but the only head that has any pretension to beauty is that of Juno. The Hours staying the progress of the horses of Apollo are per- haps in the most perfect style of paint- ing, as to colours and effect, of the wliole."— Pro/. Phillips, R.A. For routes from Mantua to Parma, see Rte. 42 ; to Ferrara and Bologna, Rte. 56 ; to Cremona, Rte. 25. Rly. in progress to the latter. 334 Route 31. — Verona to Venice. Sect. I?. I^lmi for visiting in one day^ and in tojpogra/plhical order^ the Sights at Mantua. Piazza delle Erbe ; Pal. della Eagione ; Ch. of S. Ajstdeea ; Piazza cli S. Pietro; Dfomo; Ch. of Santa Barbara; Cas- TELLO Di CoRTE ; ArcMvio; Accademia delle Belle Arti; Piazza Yirgiliaua; re- turning by Corso di Porta Pradella to Theatre ; Pal. del Diavolo ; Pal. Col- loredo; Clis. of ;S'. Maurizio and S. Parnaha; Houses of Giulio Romano and Mantegna ; Ch. of S. Sebastiano j Palazzo del Te, EOUTE 31. VEEONA TO VENICE, BY CALDIERO, VICENZA, AND PADUA. — EAIL. KIL. KlL San Martino . . 6 Pojana . . . 63 Caldiero . . . 12 Padua . . . . 78 Sambonifacio . 21 Ponte di Brenta 84 Lonigo . , . 26 Dolo . . . . 94 Montebello . . 32 Marano . . . 98 Tavernelle . . 41 Mestre . . . . 107 ViCENZA . . . 48 Venice . . . 115 115 = 7li Eng. m. Trains leave Yerona 3 times a day, employing about 1^ lir. to Yicenza, 2 to Padua, and 3*50 to Venice. There are two stations, but the most con- venient for persons going towards Yicenza will be that outside the Porta Vescovo, near the cemetery, on the 1. bank of the Adige. The railway, on leaving Yerona, and in nearly its whole extent to Yicenza, runs parallel and near to the old post- road. It skirts the last spurs of the Alps. These hills are extremely picturesque, from the many villages which are situ- ated upon tliem, with their Scahgerian castles. Looking back on the city, the view of Yerona, with its mediseval walls, and its heights crowned by the modern fortifications, is beautiful. At a distance of 3 miles we pass the village of San Michele. Here was a very ancient monastery, which after* wards became a convent of Benedictine nuns. It has some interest as being the place where the 3 granddaughters of Dante, the children of liis son Pietro, namely, AUgheria, Gremma, and Lucia, took the veil, the last having been abbess in 1402. The family of Dante became extinct in the male line in 1558, the last descendant who bore the name then holding a municipal office in Yerona. In the church, wliich is modern, are some good second-rate pictures by Zo Spadarino, Bellotti, and II Gohhino. Immediately beyond S. Michele, on the 1. of the rly., is the chm-ch of the Madonna di Campagna, also from the designs of Sanmicheli; a chcular building with a Tuscan colonnade, and crowned by a cupola of great beauty and originahty. The contrivances of the vaulting, the winding stau^case, and other portions of the fabric, show also great ingenuity. Witlmi are some good paintings hj Brusasorzi and Farinati, by the latter a Nativity. BeYore the altar Pavila the historian is interred : he was assassinated close to the church. At a short distance from the road, but on the other side of the Adige, is the Lazaretto, built in 1591, and for wliich Sanmicheli gave the designs. It is said that they were not strictly followed, but altered for the sake of economy ; yet the building, as it now stands, cost 80,000 zecchins. It is a noble cloister ; a parallelogram of about 700 ft. by 300, containing 150 cells. In the centre is a very graceful circular chapel of marble. The building is now used as a powder-magazine. About 3 m. from San Michele, on the 1., is the village of Montorio, re- markable for its well-preserved Scali- gerian defences. 6 kil. San Martino Stat., soon after leaving which the wide valley of Ilasi opens on the 1. 6 kil. Caldiero {Stat), anciently called Calida7'ium, from its now neglected thermal springs. An inscription found here shows that the baths were built or repaired by Petronius Probus Venetian ProV. Route Zl.— Battle of Arcole. 335 A. u. c. 753, or the first year of tbe Cliristiau era, and dedicated to Juno. Tlie buildings stood and con- tinued in use until 1240, when they were destroyed by Eccehno. The waters retained, however, so much reputa- tion that the Venetian republic, more than two centiu'ies afterwards (1483- 1500), directed the building of a bath-house, and made regidations for preventing the waste or destruction of the salutary streams; but at present they are little visited. The principal spring is surrounded by a circular en- closure. Like all in this district, the water is strongly sulphui'eous. At CaldlerOf and on the heights of Colog- nola near it, the Austrian s took up a position, towards the beginning of No- vember, 1796, where, on the 11th of the month, they were assailed by Napoleon, whom after an obstinate struggle they defeated. Napoleon then retreated to Yerona, which he quitted suddenly two days afterwards with all his disposable forces ; and by a rapid march along the right bank of the Adige, crossed that river at Ronco, a movement which was followed by the brilhant victory of Arcole. After leaving Caldiero, the pictu- resque town of Soave, on the dechvity of a hill, is passed on the left. The modern town is in the plain, but the media3val walls, wliich are well pre- served, with their square towers, are seen converging to the summit of the eminence, terminated by the ancient castle — tlie general disposition of all the fortresses in the hilly region of this part of Italy. Villanuova is now passed. Tliis hamlet possesses a church which is rather remarkable. The campanile is formed out of an ancient feudal tower, formerly part of the castle of the noble family of San Bonifacio, by whom tlie place was founded. The altar has a good bas-relief in the style of the 13th century, and the capitals of several of the columns seem to have belonged to some early Christian structm^e. The village at the foot of the hills on the 1. is Monforte. 9 kil. Samhonifaclo Stat. A road leads from here on the 1. to Monte Bolca. The group of Vicentine hills, or Monti Berici, now come into view. Samboni- facio is on the 1. bank of the Alpone, 3 m. to the S. of wliich is Arcole. It was near tliis point that Napoleon, after liis check at Caldiero, determined to assail the Austrians in flank; and he therefore stationed his army in the low grounds which extend from this viUage to the Adige. He thought, with reason, that, on the narrow causeways w^liich traversed these marshes, the superiority of numbers on the part of the enemy would be unavaihng, and everything would depend on the reso- lution of the heads of columns. The position which he had chosen was sin- gularly well adapted for the purpose he had in view. Three chaussees branch off from Ronco ; one, following the 1. bank of the Adige, ascends that river to Yerona ; one in the centre leads straight to Arcole, by a stone bridge over the little stream of the Alpone ; the third, on the rt., follows the de* scending course of the Adige to Alba- redo. Three columns were moved for- ward on these chaussees : that on the 1. was destined to approach Yerona; that in the centre to attack the flank of the Austrian position by the village of Arcole ; that on the rt. to cut ofi" their retreat. At daybreak on the 15th Mas- sena advanced on the fh-st chaussee as far as a small eminence, which brought him in sight of the steeples of Yerona, and removed all anxiety in that quarter. Augereau, with the division in the centre, pushed, without being per- ceived, as far as the bridge of Arcole ; but his advanced guard was there met by .three battalions of Croats, by whom the French were di^iven back. The Austrians despatched by Alvinzi passed through Arcole, crossed the bridge, and attacked the corps of Augereau ; but they also were repulsed and followed to the bridge by the victorious French. There commenced a desperate struggle ; the republican column advanced with the utmost intrepidity, but they were received with so tremendous a fire that 336 Route 31. — Vicenza. Sect. IV. they staggered and fell back. Napo- leon, deeming the possession of Arcole indispensable, not only to his futiu-e operations, but to the safety of his own army, put himself with his generals at the head of the column, seized a standard, advanced without slirinking tlirough a tempest of shot, and planted it on the middle of the bridge ; but the fire there became so violent that his grenadiers hesitated, and, seizing the general in their arms, bore him back amidst a cloud of sinoke, the dead and the dying. The Austrian s instantly rushed over the bridge, and pushed the crowd of fugitives into the marsh, where Napoleon lay up to the middle in water, while the enemy's soldiers for a minute surrounded him on all sides. The French grenadiers soon perceived that their commander was left beliind : the cry ran througli their ranks, " Forward to save the general!" and, returning to the charge, they drove back the Austrians, and extricated Napoleon from his perilous situation. Dinging this terrible strife Lanncs received three wounds. His aide-de-camp, Mem'on, was killed by his side when covering his general -with his bodyj and almost all liis personal staif were badly wounded. The battle continued with various fluctuations tlirough the 16th and 17th, when both parties advanced, with diminished numbers but undecaying fury. They met in the middle of the dikes, and fought with the utmost animosity. Towards noon, however. Napoleon, perceiving that the enemy were exhausted by fatigue, while his own, soldiers were comparatively fresh, deemed the moment for decisive suc- cess arrived, and, ordering a general charge of all liis forces, cleared them of the enemy, and formed his troops in order of battle at their extremity, having the rt. towards Legnago. By the orders of Napoleon the garrison of Legnago issued forth with four pieces of cannon, so as to take the enemy in rear ; while a body of trumpeters was sent, under cover of the willows, to their extreme 1. flank, with orders to sound a charge as soon as the action was fuUy engaged along the whole line. These measures were completely suc- cessful. The Austrian commander, wbile bravely resisting in front, hear- ing a cannonade in his rear, and the trimipets of a whole division of cavahy in liis flank, ordered a retreat, and, after a desperate struggle of three days' du- ration, yielded the victory to his ene- mies. An obelisk was erected near the bridge of Arcole in commemoration of the victory, and is yet standing, but it has been mutilated and disfigured. 5 kil. Lonigo Stat., 2 m. from the town of the same name on rt. 6 kil. Montehello Stat. The vil- lage, on the 1., a good-sized one, is at the base of the hill, on the summit of which are ruins of a mediaeval strong- hold, and a large modern residence ; on the rt. are the Monti Berici. This Montebello must not be con- founded with that near Casteggio (Rte. 7), the scene of the two great battles in 1800 and 1859. There are several handsome villas here. On quitting this station the two castles oi Monteccliio now come into view ; and on the oppo- site side of the valley which leads to- wards Yicenza, the castle of Brendola, on one of the slopes of the Monti Berici. The castles of Montecchio were strong- holds of the family of that name, ren- dered celebrated by Shakspeare as the rivals of the Capulets. 8 kil. Tavernelle Stat., in a rich plain between the hills of Montecchio and the Monti Berici. 7 kil. Vicenza Stat, The station is outside the Yerona gate, close to the shady promenade of the Campo Mar- zio. Yicenza. {Inns : the Hotel de la Yille, kept by Torresani ; a large and fairly comfortable hotel just inside the Yerona gate, and the nearest to the rly. station, good cookery ; le Due Euote, and the Stella d'Oro, very fair, principally resorted to by the gentry of the country around. There is a cafe at the railway station, which will serve all the purposes of the traveller who may wish to spend Venetian Pro v. Hoate 31. — Viceiiza. 337 N, Italy— IS69. Venetian ProV. Route 31. — Vicen^a: Palaces, 339 only a few hours or the interval be- tween two trains at Vicenza.) The situation of this city, wliicli, including the adjoining villages, con- tains upwards of 33,300 Inhab., is beautiful, particularly on the side of the Monti Berici, The rapid Bac- chiglione^ which runs through it, and which is joined within its walls by the Betrone^ though small, sometimes does much miscliief. Eight bridges cross these rivers, one of wliich, that of San Mlchele, a bold single arch, is attributed to Balladio. Yicenza is of great antiquity : of Roman remains, portions of a theatre have been recently discovered. There are not many struc- tm'es of the middle ages : tliis is much owing to the influence of Palladio (born 1518, died 1580) in tliis liis native town, and of those architects who more or less followed his school. " Palladio' s buildings are in general very beautiful ; but most of them are at present in a very forlorn condition. The fronts and even the columns are of brick, the entablatures of wood, and the stucco, with which both have been covered, is peehng off. I am aware that this statement of their materials may lessen your respect for the palaces which make so fine a display on paper ; but the circumstance does not diminish the merit of the architect, though it does the magnificence of the city. Pal- ladio' s columns are mostly mere orna- ments ; but in contemplating liis build- ings it is impossible to feel tliis to be a fault. The sculpture which loads the pediments of the windows is certainly ill placed ; and still worse is the little panel of bas-relief so frequently intro- duced over the lower windows ; dividing what ought to be one solid mass into two miserably weak arches. What is it then that pleases so much and so universally in the works of this artist? It seems to me to consist entirely in a certain justness of proportion with which he has distributed all the parts of his arcliitecture ; the basement being neither too high nor too low for the order above it ; the windows of the right size, and well spaced j and all the pai*ts and proportions suited to one another. The same excellence is found in his orders, and the relation of the columns, capitals, entablatures, &Ci He has not adopted the theoretical rules of another, but has drawn them aU from what he felt to be pleasing to himself, and suited to his own style of art ; but they are not good when united to a more soHd and less ornamental manner." — Woods. Palladio was succeeded by Sca- mozzi, also a Yicentine (born 1552, died 1616). He was in a manner formed by the example of Palladio. This will be seen fully at Yenice, where Scamozzi was principally employed, though some fine specimens of his talents are to be found in this his native city. The Biazza del Signori is remarkably fine. At one end of it are the two co- lumns the Yenetians used to erect in all the cities of their dominion, in imitation of those in the Piazza di San Marco. A lofty and slender campanile, the Torre delV Orologio, is 270 ft. in height, though only 23 ft. wide ; the range of shields on it are those of the ancient magistrates. The Basilica^ or Balazzo delta Ba- gione, is a Gotliic building, surrounded with or cased in galleries, on two tiers, Doric below, Ionic above, by Palladio, commenced in 1560. The great hall is a noble apartment, but rather dila- pidated. The pictures formerly here have been recently removed to the Bi* nacoteca. The statue of PaUadio is by the Roman sculptor G-ajassi, and a gift of a patriotic Yenetian nobleman, Coiite Bressan. Balazzo del Comune, forming the continuation of the Basilica into the neighbom'ing Biazza delta Biada, is partly from the designs of Scamozzi ; it now contains the mimicipal offices and the law-courts. The Torre delV Orologio is connected with it. The Balazzo Brefettizio^ opposite the Basilica, was designed also by Palladio, but, being at Rome when it was in the course of construction, it is said that those who had the direction of Q2 340 Route 3L — Vicenza : Churches, Sect. IV. the work departed from his designs. It is Corinthian, rich and fanciful. A narrower front towards the E. is a Roman triumphal arch converted into a dweUing ; and Palladio was so well pleased with his work that he has sculptured his fecit upon the archi- trave. In the Sala Bernardo, so called from Battista Bernardo, governor of the city at the time of the erection of the palace, are good paintings by Fassolo; the subjects are taken from Roman his- tory. The building next to this palace is the Monte di Pieta, The Duomo, or Cathedi*al, built in 1467. is a Grothic edifice : it has lately undergone a thorough repah'. The nave is nearly 60 feet wide ; the roof appears low. There are few objects of art in it that deserve notice. In the Barharin Chapel (3rd on 1.) are some ancient frescoes representing the Martyrdom of Sta. Montana, much in- jured by restorations ; two pictm^es by ZelottL In the 6th chapel on rt. good pictures of the Almighty, with Christ c;.^ucified, and the Virgin and Baptist, by Bart. Montagna; SS. Catherine and Margaret, by Alessandro Montagna. In another chapel is a curious paint- ing of the Virgin and Saints, by Lo- renzo, dated 1366, in 31 compartments, and in the last chapel on rt. a cm'ious coloured terracotta composition of Christ entombed, probably of the end of the 15th cent. The choir was erected in 1574. The Council of Trent held some of its meetings here. Ch.o^ San Lorenzo, an elegant Gothic edifice, which, having for a long time been desecrated and converted into a military store-house, has been recently restored to its primitive destination, The front is divided by 7 high pointed arches, in the centre of which is the fine porch, having on either side canopied tombs of the 14th century. The intC' rior contains several monuments, many of which have been removed here from desecrated churches. On the left hand of the entrance is the tomb of Sca- mozzi, with his bust; and beyond it the sepulchral tablet of B. Montagna, who died in 1572. The monument to Leonardo Porto is in the form of a handsome Ionic portico, having his urn in the centre, and those of two members of his family beneath. The tomb of Isabella Alledossi consists of a cinquecento urn. On the wall be- yond is the slab tomb that formerly covered the grave of the celebrated Giovanni Giorgio Trissino. The mo- nument of Ippolito Porto has some good bas-reliefs. Amongst the other sepulchral monuments in San Lorenzo are those of Ferreti, the historian of Vicenza, and of John of Schio, or Schelders, the contemporary and friend of St. Dominick, the " Angeli Pacis Nuncius," "Tyrannorum Gladius," and " Hereticorum Malleus," as his inscrip- tion tells us, " quivigebat saeculo ferreo xiii." — Over the altar, dedicated to SS. Lorenzo and Vincenzo, is a much in- jured painting of these saints by Mon- tagna, with a view of the ch. in the background. Ch. of La Santa Co7'ona, near the Corso, also a Gothic edifice. Seve- ral sepulcln-al inscriptions and monu- ments have been removed here of late years from other churches. In the 2nd chapel on 1. a good picture of the Magdalen and 4 Saints by B. Montagna. The high altar is of Florentine mosaic work. In the chapel on the right of it are two fine Gotliic tombs of the Tiene famUy, with recumbent sta- tues in armour ; the tombs and orna- ments are richly gilt, each having a fresco of the Virgin and Child. In the 4th chapel on 1. a Madonna crowned, painted by Verda, 18th centy. In the 5th chapel on the 1. there is a magnificent picture of the Baptism in the Jordan, by Giovanni Bellini ; the figure of Christ is exqui- sitely beautiful, and the expression angelic. The altar of this chapel is an elaborate cotemporary work. Ano- ther chapel is that of the Beato Bartolommeo de' Breganze. This Beato was a most fanatical follower of St. Dominick ; he had been de- puted to the court of St. Louis. From a second inscription in another part of the church, in which he is Vexetl-vn Prov. Boufe 31. — Vicenza: Churches; Palaces. 341 styled "Dux. Marchio. Comes, Bar- barani Rex " — Barbarano being a vil- lage on the Monte Berico — he must have been a vain man. This estimable monk was beatified at Rome towards the close of the last century, at the in- stance and heavy cost of the Bourbon dynasty of Parma. — In the 3rd chapel on the rt. is a picture of the Adoration of the Magi by FaoJo Veronese^ scarcely visible, from its dark tints, and the bad light in wliich it is placed. Palladio, who died in 1580, was buried in this church, in a tomb prepared two years before, for himself and his sons : his remains were removed, as we shall see hereafter, to a more fitting moninnent in the new Campo Santo. Church of San Stefano has a picture of the Virgin between S. Vincent and St a. Lucia, by Fahna Vecchio, over the altar of the 1. transept : and a St. Paul, by Tintoretto^ in the 1st chapel on 1. San Pietro^ to which is annexed the Ospizio de" Poveri. Over the entrance of the Ospizio is a bas-rehef by Canova, a female figure of Charity, writing on a pedestal wliich supports the bust of Ottavio Trento, the founder of the in- stitution. The statues of Adam and Eve are by Alhanese. In the church are some good pictiu-es by Maganza^ a king ofiering liis son to St. Benedict, St. Placidus, and St. Maurus ; a Pieta ; Our Saviour presenting G-arlands of Flowers to St. Peter and St. Paul. — Zelotti^ Christ delivering the Keys to St. Peter. Vicenza is more celebrated perhaps than any other town in Italy for its 'palaces. They may be classed under two heads ; thos^ built in what may be called the Venetian semi-G-othic style, and those by Palladio and his followers in the Classical. Of the former the principal are, the P. del Conte Schio, in the Corso, a fine specimen of the period : under the gateway and in the court-yard are several ancient inscrip- tions, the most interesting of which are 3 in what has been called the Suganea7i character ; they were found at the foot of the hills about six miles S.E. of Vicenza, over the entrance of a cavern, and are supposed to have be- longed to the Euganean tribes, who preceded the Romans in this part of Italy, as the Etruscans did beyond the Apennines. P. Colleoni Porto. The two palaces belonging to this family are also in the Venetian style, and stand close to each other. One of them has a very handsome gateway, and contains a few second- rate pictures of the Venetian school. Among the fine specimens of PaUa- dian architecture in Vicenza, the follow- ing are the most remarkable : — P. ParbaranOjhy Palladio, Ionic and Corinthian, with rich festoons. P. Chiericati, in the Piazza dell' Isola, at the E. extremity of the Corso. Of the edifice Palladio was particularly proud, and with reason. The lower order has a fine Doric portico, the upper an Ionic, with two Loggie on the sides. This palace, which was falling into ruin, was purchased by the Muni- cipality, and beautifully restored ac- cording to the original plans of the great architect ; it is now one of the finest of Palladio' s palaces, and amongst the most remarkable in his native city ; it has been converted into a museum and picture-gallery, of Avliich we shall speak hereafter. The general design is very fine, and the interior arrangements are managed with great skill. It escaped narrowly in 1848, during the bombard- ment of Vicenza by the Austrians, a cannon-shot having pierced the roof and injured the vaulting of its great saloon. P. del Conte Porto al Castello (but for which the stranger must inquii'e imder the name Ca^ del Diavolo)^ " This fragment is by some attributed to Palladio, by others to Scamozzi ; but the latter disclaimed it, and it ap- pears to me to be PaUadian. Whoever was the architect, we may certainly pronounce it a noble design, although a very smaU part has been executed, and that fragment is nearly in ruins." — Woods. P. del Conte Orazio Porto. This was designed by Palladio for Conte Griuseppe Porto, and a great part of it 342 Route 31. — Vicenza: Palaces. Sect. IV. executed under his eyes; but it has never been completed. P. Cordellina^ by Calderari, now oc- cupied by the Elementary Schools. P. Tiene. Had this been completed, it would have been the largest palace in the city. " The architect is said to have been the proprietor, Count Marc Antonio Tiene, the contemporary and friend of Palladio, from whom, no doubt, he has largely borrowed. Sca- mozzi seems to have completed it. It consists of two orders, Corinthian and Composite, and an attic ; the lower order is partly rusticated, and an im- post moulding contracts the heads of the windows, which are square. The upper Avindows are smaller at top than at bottom, but the diminution is shght ; altogether the building is very beautiful. The back consists of an open colonnade of two orders, closed at each end ; the middle intercolumnia- tion is wider than the others, and has some masonry and an arch within it. The front has eight columns in each story; the back ten." — Woods, P. Trento is by Scamozzi : much plainer than the following. P. Trissino, in the Corso, also by Scamozzi. " This is probably one of his best works, and is a noble edifice, though it wants something of that undefinable grace of proportion we admire in Pal- ladio, and it stands in so narrow a street that one can hardly judge of it fairly. It has a range of nine windows on the principal floor, with interme- diate pilasters doubled at the angles ; but the change of design in the tliree middle divisions, the high unmeaning arch in the centre, and the double pi- lasters separating the centre from the wings are so many defects." — Woods. The Pal. Trissino was never completed, the front towards the Contrada di San Stefano being alone finished. It is now occupied by the Custom-house. P. Valmarana, by Palladio, only in part completed : Composite. Among the remarkable houses of Yicenza are those of Palladio and Pigafetta. Casa di Palladio, in the Corso, sup posed to have been built by the great architect for/ his own use, whilst by others it is attributed to Conte Pietro Cogollo, a Venetian patrician. It is a PaUadian adaptation of a triumphal arch. Casa Pigafetta. This is a beauti- ful edifice, but m a very different style. Being situated in a dark, dirty, and out-of-the-way street — a very Edin- burgh Wynd — (the Contrada della Lu- na, below and behind the BasiUca), it has little attracted the notice of travellers. It is a fine specimen of the highly decorated domestic architecture of the 15th centy., having been com- pleted in 1481. It consists of a base- ment and 2 upper stories, surmounted by a cornice. On the basement are sculptured groups of roses, with the in- scription in French, " II n'est rose sans epine." Each of the 3 windows have elaborately-carved balconies and cano- pies, ornamented with griffons and other animals, the spaces between being covered with arabesques in low rehef, flowers, eagles, &c. This bijou of archi- tecture — for it is scarcely 8 yards in front — was inhabited by the celebrated navigator Antonio Pigafetta, one of the companions of Magellan; the family still exists at Vicenza. The name of the architect is not known. Teatro Olim^ico, if not the finest, yet the most curious of the works of Palladio. The Accademia Olimpica of Vicenza had been accustomed to act translations of the ancient Greek tra- gedies, and Palladio being a member they employed him to give the designs for tliis fabric, of which the first stone was laid on the 23rd of May, 1580 ; but in consequence of the death of the architect, which followed ahnost immediately afterwards, it was raised and completed by Scilla Palladio, his son. He followed, as strictly as he could, the text of Vitruvius and the remains which existed. The scenery, which is fixed, represents the side of a species of piazza, from which diverge streets of real elevation, but diminish^ ing in size as they recede in the per-- spective. A considerable effect of dis- Venet. Prov. Route 31. — Vicenza : Pinacofeca. 343 tance is obtained, especially in the middle avenue. Daylight, howeTcr, by which a trareller usually sees it, is injurious to its effect. On the opening of the theatre the academicians per- formed the Edipus Tyrannus, a ])lay to wliich the scenery is entirely unadapted. It is such as would have been used for the comedies of Menander, and the other plays of the New Comedy. It would be admirably adapted for the representation of the comedies of Te- rence by the Queen's scholars at West- minster. The custode speaks English, and will prove a good guide for going over the sights at Vicenza. The Museum, or Finacoteca Civica, now placed in the Palazzo Chiericati, contains some good pictui'es, partly brought from the Basilica and Palazzo del Comune, but chiefly presented by 3 patriotic citizens — the Countess Piga- fetta Vessari, Count Egidio di Yelo (who raised the monument to Palla- dio in the cemetery), and Count Yicen- tino del G-igHo, — whose names deserve to be recorded. It has been pur- chased by the Municipality, and mag- nificently restored in order to adapt it to its present destination. The palace is entered from the Piazza dell' Isola, under the Doric portico, by a handsome vestibule, paved with ancient marbles, discovered in the excavations of the neighbouring Roman theatre. From here a handsome staircase, hned with medallions of celebrated men of Vi- cenza, leads to the grand apartments ; the great hall, a splendid room, and 4 adjoinmg ones on the N., are entirely filled with paintings. As there is a good catalogue of them, we shall merely notice the most remarkable : — Giorgione, the Portrait of Pietro di Abano ; L. Bassano, the Madonna and Child, with Gr. Moro and S. Capello, the chief Magistrates of the City, kneeling before the Virgin, and some portraits, one of which is of Fracastoro ; Cima da Conegliano, a Virgin and Child, bearing the painter's name and the date. May 1, 1489 ; B. Montagna, two pictm-es of the Virgin and Cliild, alsp signed, and the Martyrdom of St. Biagio, in 3 compartments ; Titian, a half figure of the Magdalen, very expres- sive ; Tewpesta, 3 landscapes ; Peni' gino, Santa Barbara, a pretty figure of a female saint ; Baulus de Venet its, a cu- rious old picture of the Madonna and Saints, signed and dated 1323 ; Gio, Bellini, Virgin and Cliild ; P. Veronese, same subject, much retouched ; Luini, an oblong picture of an Eastern king presenting gifts to the Virgin and Child, colovmng good; Luca Gior- dano, 3 large pictures — Paris and the Graces, very good ; and Giorgione, a supposed portrait of Ariosto ; Giacomo Tintoretto, a Scene of the Plague ; Gio. Belliiii, what is called a Portrait of Cardinal Bembo ; l^lisahetta Sirani, the Portrait of a Young Lady. Beyond the picture gallery, on the N. side of the palace, in two rooms, are placed an extensive series of engravings, and a collection of 56 original dramngs, by the three great architects of Vicenza — JPalla- dio, Scamozzi, and Calderari. Those of Palladio are particularly interesting. They consist of designs for some mo- dern edifices, such as the palace at Vicenza, and the Rialto bridge at Ve- nice ; and of copies of ancient Roman edifices, triumphal arches, temples, thermae, &c., as they existed at his time. Several of these valuable designs had been deposited in the archives of the Municipality ; others were given by a Veronese citizen, Pinali. In a series of small apartments on the op- posite side of the G-reat Sala are placed the collections of natural history, con- sisting principally of objects from the neighbouring provinces. The series of quadrupeds and birds are very com- plete, as are also the minerals and fossil organic remains ; amongst the latter will be worthy of the attention of the naturalist the remains of a rhinoceros in the bone breccia of Monte Zopea, near Soave, and a fine fossil shark from Monte Bolca ; there is also an extensive herbarium, in which has been incorpo- rated that of the Venetian provinces, formed by the celebrated Arduino. In an adjoining apartment are the coins, 344 Route 31. — Neighbourhood of Vicenza, Sect. IV. and the smaller specimens of ancient sculpture, discovered by Count Velo during his excavations at Rome, chiefly in the baths of Caracalla ; and on the ground floor the larger objects, and seve- ral fragments dug out during the recent excavations of the neighbouring theatre. The Collegio Cordellino is an edu- cational establishment for the upper classes, on the same plan as the French Imperial Lycees. It is located in the suppressed convent of San Marcello. The first court (the former cloister) has been surrounded by a handsome double row of colonnades by the native archi- tect, Malacarne. Theatre. — The Teatro Eretenio is not very large, but is neatly fitted up ; the performances in general are good. The country about Yicenza is beau- tifully varied with hill and dale. About f m. from the city is the Monte Berico, celebrated for its sanctuary erected upon the summit in 1420 in honour of a supposed apparition of the Yirgin. It is joined to Yicenza by a continued range of arcades, 730 yards long, with 168 arches. Each of the arches of the Fortici del Monte bears the shield, device, or name of the fra- ternity or individual at whose expense it was erected. There is no peculiar beauty in the architecture, but the long succession of arcades is striking. The ch., which is called Sta. Maria del Monte^ was small and of pointed architecture, erected in 1428, to com- memorate the apparition of the Yirgin to a lady of Yicenza, and the liberation of the town from the plague ; but a large new part was added in 1688, in the form of a Grreek cross, which internally is very beautiful. What was once the nave of the old ch. has thus become the transept of the new building, and the altar has been removed from the recess in the end of the former biulding to a place which was the middle of one of the aisles. It contains some good paintings of JB. Montagna : at the altar of the Yirgin, the Madonna with the dead Christ and Saints, signed and dated by the painter, 1500 ; reckoned one of his best pictures. This edifice, and the adjoining conventual buildings, sufiered much from their occupation by a Croat regiment in 1848, when the Sup- per of St. Gregory the Great, by Faul Veronese, so narrowly escaped total destruction. This fine painting, only second in size to that of the Marriage of Cana in the Louvre, stood in the re- fectory of the Convent, where it was most wantonly mutilated, literally hacked into 32 pieces, by the Austrian soldiery who occupied that building after the bombardment of Yicenza in 1848. The fragments have been since put together, after a good copy of the original, which had ■ luckily been made some years before, and which is now in the Pinacoteca. It was from the hill be- fore it that the Austrians, after having driven away the Italian corps which defended the heights, so cruelly bombarded Yicenza on the 24th of May of that year, during 9 successive hours. Although this church is not situated on the highest part of the hill, its elevation (320 feet above Yicenza) is such, that the view from its campanile, or from some of the villas near it, is most extensive. Looking to the N.E., but at a great distance, are seen the snow-capped peaks of Friuli ; to the N. are the Alps beyond Bassano, the gorge through which the Brenta breaks into the plain, the serrated ridges which en- circle the upper valley of the Adige, at the foot of which can be easily descried the large towns of Bassano, Schio, and Treviso, and, on a clear day, even the temple of Possagno raised by Canova, and in the foreground the Yicentine and j Yeronese hills ; to the N.W. the two castles of Montecchio form very pictu- resque objects in the landscape; looking towards the E. you see the Euganean liills, separated from the Alps by the ! wide plain in which Padua is clearly I visible, and extending to the Lagoons of i Yenice and to the shores of the Adri- atic; between the Euganean group of hills and the equally insulated one of the Monti Berici, on which we stand, is the depression tln-ough which a por- tion of the Avaters of the Bacchiglione VenetU-N Prov. Route 31. — Neighbourhood of Vicenza, 345 are carried to form the canal of Este, communicating with the Adige ; be- hind and to the S. extend the Monti Berici towards Montagnano, covered with villas of the Yicentine gentry, amongst which that of Count Kam- boldo, on the site of a Cistercian Con- vent, is worthy of a visit. ^ear Wxe Porta del Castcllo,i\\st owi- side of Vicenza, is a remarkable tower, dark and deeply macliicolated, which forms rather a prominent object in the view from the Monte. It was erected by the Scaligers as the March Toiver between Lombardy and the Venetian states, and it is now used as the cam- jpanile of an adjoining church. At the foot of Monte Berico is the 'Rotonda Cajpra, so well known as Palla- dio's Yilla, copied by Lord Burlington at Chiswick. " It is a square builcUng, containing a round saloon lighted from above. From the four sides you ascend on broad stau's, and reach at every side a porch formed by 6 Corinthian pillars. It may be that architecture never pushed splendour to a higher pitch. The space taken up by stairs and porches is far greater than that of the building, because every side would be quite suffi- cient for the entrance to any temple. The saloon exhibits the finest propor- tions, as well as the rooms. Every side presents itself from all parts of the adjoining country in a most magnifi- cent manner." — Goethe. TheBotonda is now falling into ruin. Occupied, like the Convent of Monte Berico, by the Austrian soldiery in 1848, it was stripped of everything that could be carried away, its furniture dispersed, the statues mutilated. It presents now a sad picture of abandonment and di- lapidation. Not far from the Botonda is the Villa Valmarana, surrounded by ex- tensive gardens. The villa consists of 3 separate casinos; in the central or largest is a large saloon covered with frescoes by Tiepolo, who has also painted some rooms in the two others. Just beyond the Porta di San Barto- loui/meo is the Palazzo Trissino in Cri- colij interesting, both on account of its beauty, and as having been the resi- dence of the celebrated Giovanni Giorgio Trissino, whose name appears on the architraves of the upper windows. Tris- sino was a poet of considerable emi- nence, and it is said that the palace was built from his own designs. The honoui* is claimed also for Palladio. The Puhlic Cemetery is one of those useful establishments which do so nmcli credit to the municipal bodies of the large towns in N. Italy. It is situated \ m. beyond the toAvn, the sub- urb leading to which bore until lately numerous marks of the military opera- tions of 1848. The cemetery has been erected from the designs of the archi- tect Malacarne^ and consists of a large quadrangle surrounded by a high waU, round the interior of which run 4 por- ticoes with 124 arches, built of brick, and which, instead of being covered with cement, have been hacked, to give the whole a semi-ruined appearance, in harmony with their destination. Under the arcades are placed the vaults and monuments of the higher classes ; in the centre, the graves of the poor. Many of the tombs are worthy of notice as works of art. In the centre oftheN.W. arcade is the monument to Palladio, by Fahris^ of Borne, raised at an expense of 15,000 dollars, by Count Yelo. PaUadio's remains, which formerly lay in the ch. of Santa Corona, have been removed here. Of the other monuments may be noticed those of Countess Isabella Yelo, with a fine re- cumbent figure of the deceased on an urn ; of her brother Count Yelo, above mentioned; of the Toguzzaro family, by an artist of Padua ; of Count Tris- sino ; and of the Prince of La Tour et Taxis, an Austrian general, killed in 1848 in the conflict which' took place close to the gates of this cemetery. Plan for visiting (in one day) the principal Sights at Vicenza, in topo- graphical order. Duomo or Cathedral; Ch. of San Lorenzo; Pal. Trissino; Piazza dei Signori ; Palazzo Prefettizio ; Pa- Q 3 346 Route 31. — Recoaro — Bassano, Sect. IV. lazzo della Magione; Casa Pigafetta; Chs. of San Stefano and Sta. Corona ; House of Palladio ; Pal. Chiericati and Museum ; Teatro Olimjpico ; Camjpo Santo ; Rotunda di Palladio ; Villa V al- onarana ; Madonna di Monte Berico, [The baths of Pecoaro are 26 m. from Yicenza to the J^.W., at the head of the valley of the Agno ; there are two intermediate relays, the first at Monte- hello, and the second at Valdagno ; they are principally frequented dur- ing the months of July and August, during wliich diUgences and omnibuses leave Yicenza at 9J a.m. and 3 p.m., returning at 7 and 11 a.m. daily. There are several good Inns (that kept by Domenico Trettenero excellent, (and every accommodation for persons fre- quenting the baths ; H. de I'Europe, kept by Griorgetti; indeed Eecoaro may be resorted to as a very cool and agreeable summer residence, little in- ferior in this respect to the Baths of Lucca. Donkeys in abundance for excursions. The waters of Recoaro, which are ferruginous, are sent in bottles, properly sealed, to all parts of Italy. Persons using them should see that the small leaden seal bears the date of the current year : if kept beyond the year the iron precipi- tates. The season for bottling the water begins in May. Another mine- ral water, Aqua Catulliana, containing a rather strong solution of sulphate of iron, is also procured in the neighbour- hood, and is sent to different parts of Italy. Yery agreeable excursions may be made from Yicenza to Recoaro, the Sette Commune, &c., which, belonging more properly to the Italian Tyrol, are described in the Handbook for S. The roads from Yicenza to Inspruck, by the Yal de' Signori and the Yal Su- gana, through Schio, Bassano, &c., as well as those to Feltre and Belluno, are described also in the Handhooh for South Germany (Routes 222, 228, 232), in connection with the great lines of communication across the Alps, between the Tj^rol and Italy. Public convey- ances wiU be found from Yicenza daily to Schio, Bassano, and Montagnano. Vicenza to Bassano , Possagnoy and Asolo. A very interesting excursion may be made from Yicenza to these places, which, although described in our Handbook of South German// in con- nexion with the Italian Tyrol, belong more to Italy than to the declivity of the Rhsetian Alps. Carriages can be hired at Yicenza for the whole ex- cursion, or for Bassano only, to which there are daily public conveyances from the rly. stat. There are two roads — that through Marostica, remarkable for its mediaeval defences, the shortest and best ; the other through Citta- della, and from there following the rich plain of the Brenta: distance about 20 m, Bassano (Inns : Sant' Antonio, clean, and civil people ; II Mondo), a pic- turesque town, whose old walls are draped with ivy, of 12,000 Inhab., prettily situated on the Brenta, here crossed by a covered wooden bridge, which replaces one blown up by the French. Palladio had previously con- structed a bridge here, swept away by an inundation of the Brenta in 1748. The painter Giacomo da Po7/^e was born here, better known as Bassano, after his native place. The Museum, in Piazza San Fran- cesco, contains a valuable library of 60,000 vols. ; a collection of autographs, 15th to 19th centy. ; 2i Picture Gallery , in which are many works of the Da Ponte family, of Guariento, Dazio da Trevigi, P. Yeronese, Bonifazio, &c. Casts from the works of Canova, and a collection of his Drawings and MSS., were the gift of his brother. Coins, Roman, Consular, and Imperial ; Ye- netian of the middle ages. Prints, 12,000, including playing-cards by Mantegna and Schongauer ; many rare engravings of Ugo da Carpi, Ant. da Trento, G. and Nicolo Yicentini, &c. Geological specimens and minerals, Venetian Prov. Route 31. — Possagno, 347 the gift of Cav. Parolini to his native city, partly formed by the eminent geologist G. B. Brocchi, a native of Bassano. The Castle, in the centre of the town, built by the tyrant Eccelino da Romano, is now the archbishop's palace. It is partly in ruins, but is imposing from its situation and group of many towers. The view from the castle is fine. The Palace of the Podesta contains some frescoes and statues. The Villa Rezzonico, near the town, is celebrated for its exquisite views, extending as far as the Euganean hills, and over those of the Sette Communi, Asolo, &c. It contains, besides other works of art, an oil painting of the Death of Socrates, by Canova. The grounds of the Villa Parolini, outside the walls, are handsomely laid out, and contain a Pinetum and a good botanical garden. In 1 796 Napoleon, in this neighbour- hood, surprised and annihilated the Austrian army under Wurmser, 4 days after the battle of Roveredo; having made a forced march from Trent, 60 TCL., in the short space of 2 days. He subsequently bestowed the title of Duke of Bassano on his minister Maret. [^Possagno, the birthplace of Canova, is only 2 hours' drive from Bassano : the distance is about 10 m., a walk of rather more than 3 hrs. The road is good, and runs through a lovely coun- try, passing by Romano, the birthplace of the afterwards noted tyrant of Pa- dua Eccelino, and the village of Cres- pano. There is a collection of pic- tures in the Casa Ajeta, of the early Venetian school, here worth visiting. This district suffered much from the earthquake in 1846, the central or most violent action of which was about Romano. The road runs along the last declivities of the Vicentine Alps, and over the tertiary hills, which ex- tend from their base to the great plain between the Brenta and the Piave. The village of Possagno, the name of which would probably have never been heard of beyond its own province but for the great sculptor, whose father was an obscure architect and builder of the place, is prettily situated at the base of one of the most southern spurs of the Alps, in a small valley separating it from the tertiary group of the Asolan hills. With the laud- able intention of conferring a per- manent benefit on the place of his birth, and of leaving a monument of his truly Christian piety, Canova began during his lifetime a magnificent church, in the form of an antique temple, combining the Doric peristyle of the Parthenon with the cupola of the Pantheon. The general plan was by Canova himself, but the carrying out of the work was intrusted to an architect of the neighbouring town of Crespano, Giovanni Zardo, ' by whom it was completed after the sculptor's death. The ch. is dedi- cated to the Creator and the Holy Trinity, having on the fa9ade the in- scription, " Deo Opt. Max, Uno ac Trino." It contains an altarpiece painted by the founder, but possessing little merit ; a bronze bas-relief of the Entombment, a very fine work, and the last which he modelled ; and the tomb of Canova, whose body was re- moved here from Venice, where he died on the 13th Oct. 1822, and which is deposited in a marble urn made by himself for the tomb of a Marchese Berio at Naples, and which had not been claimed by that family. He left by his will funds to complete the church, and to erect a magnificent Bridge of a single arch (110 ft. span) over the stream of the Astego, so as to render Possagno more accessible to travellers. This bridge is crossed about J of the way from Bassano to Possagno, just beyond the village of Crespano. It is principally of brick, the arch being of that material ; part of the spandrils, and the base and coping of the parapet, are of stone. This munificence of Canova to Pos- sagno. becomes a perpetual legacy and benefit, from the influx of strangers resorting to the spot, whom he and his works have attracted to it. Canova' s House, called the Palazzo, the most remarkable building in the village, for the church or temple is on the hill above it, is elegantly fitted up, 348 Route 3 1 . — Asolo — Castelfraiico, Sect. IV. and contains many interesting relics of the great sculptor. A very handsome ■wing has been added to it since his death, by his brother, to form a mu- seum, which contains casts of most of his works, some of his unfinished sculptures, and a monument to the daughter of a Spanish nobleman the Marquez de Santa Cruz, which being unpaid for remained on his hands. The Museum and the House are liberally shown to visitors. An interesting excursion may be made from Possagno to Asolo (4 m.), a very picturesque mediaeval town of 3500 Inhab., at the foot of a hill surmounted by the ruins of a castle, from which one of the most exten- sive panoramas of the great plains of the Brenta and the Piave, with the encircling Alps, and the distant in- sulated group of the Euganean hills, opens before the traveller. On a fine summer evening the silver lines of the Piave and the Brenta may be followed from where they emerge from their Alpine valleys to the sea, in the midst of the green alluvial plain, in which Treviso, Vicenza, Padua, are easily recognised. Venice, with its cupolas and steeples, is seen near the extreme E. horizon, terminated by the blue line of the Adriatic ; whilst behind, to the N., the snow-capped peaks of the Rhsetian Alps rise in majestic grandeur. The town of Asolo is surrounded by a wall with mediaeval turrets, and several of its houses have painted fa9ades. In the Town-house is pre- served one of Canova's earliest pro- ductions, a bas-relief, presented by him to the municipality in grateful remem- brance of their having conferred upon him his first title of nobility, when it had been indignantly refused to him by the authorities of Bassano, on the plea of his being a mere stone-cutter, a taglia pietra. The Castle, a quadrangular building, with a donjon tower, is an interesting monument of the 13th centy. It was the residence of the beautiful Caterina Cornaro, the last Queen of Cyprus, after the forced resignation of her king- dom to the Venetians in 1489. Here this lady of elegant taste and refined education closed her days in compara- tive obscurity, in the enjoyment of an empty title and a splendid income, and surrounded by a small intellectual court and several literary characters. Of those, one of the most celebrated was Pietro Bembo, the historian of Venice, afterwards cardinal, whose philosophical dialogues on the nature of love, the ' Asolani,' have derived their name from this locality. The geologist will find much to interest him in the country about Bas- sano, Possagno, and Asolo, which was for the first time illustrated by our distinguished countryman Sir R. Mur- chison, to whose masterly illustration of the geology of the Alps we must refer our readers for one of the best guides to this remarkable geological district. Good roads lead from Asolo to Bassano on one side, and to Feltre, Belluno, Treviso, and Vicenza on the other : the country is richly cultivated : no district in Northern Italy is more delightfully situated than the Asolan hills. '* A few miles E. of Asolo, on the road to Cornuda, is Mese, once a seat of the Venetian Manins, now of Sig. Giacometti, containing several rooms painted in fresco by Paul Veronese, who has introduced his own and his wife's portraits." — A. H, L. The traveller without returning to Vicenza can proceed from Asolo to Padua by Cast elf ranco, an ancient town of 3800 Inhab., in the plain, surrounded by walls and many towers. It was the birthplace of Giorgione, whose house still exists. A Madonna and Child, with S. Liberale in armour (said to be the painter's portrait), and St. Francis below; there is also a small picture by the same painter in the principal church. Behind the altar is a Descent of Christ into Limbo by Ponchini ; in the sacristy a fresco of Justice, by P. Veronese. The Villa Soranzo, out- side the town, is a fine building by Sanmichele. THE imm DFTHl l^NIYERglTY ef IthlMDIS 350 Route 31. — Padua, Sect. IV. Venetian Prov. Route 31. — Padua, 351 Vicenza to Padua. By railway, 30 kil.=18i Eng. m. vSoon after leaving the station the rly. crosses the bridge over the BaehigUone. The country is well cultivated with vines, maize, mulberry-trees, &c. 16 kil. Fojana Stat.] The line from Yicenza to this stat., and indeed to Padua, is over a dead flat, in some places swampy. Before reaching Pajano the low hill of Monte Graldo may be seen on the rt. ; and beyond there is on the rt. across the plain a fine view of the Euganeans : the Ceresone, and afterwards the Brentella, which is carried into the Bacliighone of Este, are crossed before reaching 17 kil. Padua Station, which is at some distance from the centre of the town, but where carriages and omni- buses will be found. The traveller w^ill find it more expeditious to employ a light caleche, fare 2 lire. Padfa. Inns: La Stella d'Oro, in the Piazza G-aribaldi, kept by Fanti, the best ; good and clean ( C. F. Oct., 1867) : an obliging landlord, and mo- derate charges ; it is in the centre of the town, and close to the Post Office, the University, &c., and nearest to the Ely. Stat. — Aquila d'Oro ; very fair, and in an airy situation, but remote and distant from the rly., near the ch. of S. Antonio. Croce di Oro. Cafes: the Cafe Pedrocclii, cele- brated all over Italy, is the best ; there is also a restaurant, and a fine assembly-room on the first floor. While the building of this cafe was in progress Pedrocchi was present every evening, and paid all the w^orkmen ready money, and, it was said, al- ways in old Yenetian gold. He had been left in poor circumstances, and lived in a little old house upon the site of liis present cafe, which, falhng into decay, he was compelled to pull down. Suddenly he abounded in riches — as many stories were afloat concern- ing liidden treasures and yet more awful things as would furnish materials for a legend. The secret of his wealth appears to have been that he kept a gammg-house. In excavating for the foundation of an ice-house attached to the estabhshment portions of a Roman edifice were discovered, and the marbles found have been employed in the ornaments and pavement of the salone, Booksellers. Zambecarri, near the Theatre and University, has a good choice of old and new books. Padua is perhaps the oldest city in the N. of Italy, and the one abounding most in tractions propagated from age to age. The foundation of Padua w^s attributed to Antenor by the Ro- mans. " Antenor potuit, mediis elapsus Acliivis, lilyricos penetrare sinns atque intima tutus Regna Liburnorum, et fontes superare Ti- mavi : Unde per ora novem vasto cum murmure mentis It mare proruptum, et pelago premit arva sonanti. Hie tamen ille urbem Patavi, sedesque loca- vit Teucrorum, et genti nomen dedit, armaque fixit Troia. Nunc placid^, compQstus pace qui- escit." JEneid, lib. i. 243, 249. " Antenor from the midst of Grecian hosts Could pass secure, and pierce th* Illyrian coasts : Where, rolling down the steep, Timavus raves, And through nine channels disembogues his waves. At length he founded Padua's happy seat, And gave his Trojans a secure retreat ; There fix'd their arms, and there renew'd their name. And there in quiet rules, and crown'd with fame." Dkyden's Virgil. In the year 1274, when the work- men were laying the foundation of the Foundling Hospital, a large marble sarcophagus w^as discovered, contain- ing a second of lead, and a third of cypress-wood. In the latter was a skeleton, of larger than the ordi- nary stature, grasping a sword in. the bony hand ; an inscription upon the sword, in barbarous Latin, was interpreted to indicate that the tomb belonged to Antenor. The discovery, like that of the bones of Livy, excited the greatest enthusiasm, and the re- mains of the founder of the city were 352 Route 31. — Padua : Palazzo della Eagione, Sect. IV. deposited in the church of San Lorenzo. To the same church the sarcophagus was removed, and an inscription composed by Lovato, a doctor of laws and a poet, was engraved upon the monument, which still exists in excellent pre- servation. When Alberto della Scala governed Padua in 1334 the sarcopha- gus was opened, and he requested as a gift the sword of the Trojan hero. The church has been demohshed, but the sarcophagus has been spared. It stands at the corner of a street, beyond the bridge of St. Lorenzo, in front of the' palace of the Deleg^ione Provin- ciale, beneath a canopy of brick, and, whatever may be thought of the story, is unquestionably antique, thougli of what age it is difficult to decide. The most probable solution is that it belonged to one of those Hungarian invaders who descended into Italy in the 9th century. The urn resem- bles in its form those of the time of the Lombard period at Ravenna ; tlie canopy over it, and the stumpy columns that support the urn, are of the 13th centy., when it was discovered, similar to those of the tomb of Petrarch at A.rqua. Near it is Lovato's own sarcophagus, " Padova la Forte" contains 45,000 Inhab. Long rows of arches, generally pointed, support the houses. Irregular unoccupied groimd — wide-stretching tracts of open spaces or piazze on the outskirts — add to its pecuHar cha- racter. The edifice the most peculiar and most national is the JPalazzo della Munici'palitq, or Falazzo della Ma- gione, built by Fietro Cozzo between 1172 and 1219, which forms one side of the market-place: a vast building, standing entirely upon open arches, surrounded by a loggia. The E. end is covered with sliields and armorial bearings. To the Broletto of the Lom- bard cities it has no resemblance. A vast roof, like that at Yicenza, towers above the edifice, rising, perhaps, half as high again as tlie walls upon which it rests. This roof is said to be the largest, unsupported by pillars, in the world. The present one is of iron, having been renewed in 1857. The hall is 267i feet long, and 89 wide, as much in height, but not quite rectan- gular. The history of tliis hall is as remark- able as its aspect. In the year 1306 there came to Padua a renowned archi- tect and engineer, an Augustin friar, called Ft ate Giovanni. He had tra- velled far and wide, over Eiu'ope and in Asia, and he had brought back plans and drawings of all the buildings which he had seen ; amongst others, one of the roof of a great palace in India. This design greatly pleased the Paduans, and they requested liim to roof then* hall (which had previously formed tlu'ee chambers) in hke manner ; and Fra^ Giovanrd assented, asking- no other pay than the materials of the old roof, which he w^as to take down. The Loggia, or corridor, under arches, that surrounds it, is of the same period. The interior of tliis haU is gloomy, and the whole is closely covered with strange mystical paintings, which have replaced those by Giotto, and which were destroyed by the successive con- flagrations of the building, especially that of 1410; the authors of those frescoes are supposed to be anony- mous Padovese and Ferrarese painters. The original ones by Giotto were exe- cuted according to the instructions of the great physician, astrologer, and alchemist, Pietro di Abano (born 1250, died 1316). Pietro di Abano was the first reviver of the art of me- dicine in Europe ; and he travelled to Greece for the pui'pose of learning the language of Hippocrates and Galen, and of profiting by the stores which the Byzantine libraries yet contained. He practised with the greatest success ; and his medical works were considered as amongst the most valuable volumes of the therapeutic library of the middle ages. He wrote the ' Concihator difFe- rentiarum Medicormn.' His bust is over one of the doors of the hall : the in- scription placed beneath it indignantly repudiates the magic and sorcery ascribed to him. Venetian Prov. Route 31. — Padua: Palazzo delta Eagione, 353 The paintings, forming 319 compart- ments, have been repeatedly damaged by fire and water, in 1420, 1608, l74rl, anil 1762 ; and have been entirely repainted ; no part of those by Giotto remain. They fall into several classes. The constel- lations — sacred subjects — apostles and saints — the winds and elements — alle- gorical figures of Virtue; — but the principal series consists of the months of the year, with their ruling planets and constellations ; the employments of the month; and the temperaments, assigned, according to astrological rules, to those who are born under the different astral combinations. The apertiu-es, or windows, are said to be so disposed that the solar rays in each month travel along the representatives of the signs and planets then in riding activity. The following paintings may be remarked, either for their beauty or singularity: — Justice and Prudence; portrait of Dante, under the personi- fication of Sagittarius ; Pisces, under which is a yoimg woman supporting an aged person with great tenderness ; also a very beautiful kneeUng figure; generally, the representations of the trades and occupations of himian life. — The Coronation of the Yirgin — the Magdalene — and St. Paul in prayer. At one end of the hall is the so- called monument of Livy, erected in 1547. Like the great physician of the 13th centy., he was born at Abano. According to an immemorial tradition, the site of Livy's house can be pointed out in the Strada di San Giovanni; and in the year 1363 an inscription was found near the church of Santa Giustina, purporting to have been placed there by a certain Titus Livius Halys, erroneously attri- buted to the historian, although it is distinctly stated on it that he was a freedman of Livia Quarta. Some time afterwards, in 1413, a tesselated pavement was discovered, beneath which was found a leaden cofiin containing a skeleton, which was immediately sup- posed to be that of the great historian himself. The discovery excited the greatest enthusiasm, and it was deter- mined to place the remains in the Palazzo. The translation took place with as much pomp as if Livy had been a tutelary saint. The relics were divided: the jawbone was de- posited in the Cancellaria; and Al- fonso of Arragon, King of Naples, de- spatched (1450) a special embassy to request the gift of an armbone, which was conceded by the Paduans, as ap- pears by an inscription on a marble tablet over the door. The inscription found at Sta. Giustina has been let into the wall ; and statues of Minerva (or, as some say, Eternity) and Fame, the Tiber and the Brenta, have been added: above is a bust, upon which are engraved the letters P. T. L. E., which, with somewhat of Oldbuck's sagacity, are explained to signify Pata- villi Tito lAvio Srexerunt. The bones are placed over one of the side doors leading to the Ufiizio clella Sanita. Over a third door is the bas-rehef re- presenting the celebrated jurist Paulus^ who flourished in the age of Alexander Severus, and contributed much to the formation of the codes of the civil law. Alberto Padovano, commemorated over another doorway (died 1323), w^as a preacher of extraordinary eminence in his day : Sjperone Speroni also has a statue. It was erected at the public expense in 1594. Hallam considers Speroni' s tragedy of Canace as a work of genius ; and his Dialogues, an humble imitation of Plato, which may have been valued when well-turned phrases were accepted as an equivalent for meaning. Such tributes to literary eminence are sufficiently common, but the bust erected, 1661, by the city to the me- mory of Lucrezia Dondi, is, perhaps, unique : it bears witness to her virtue and to her death, under circumstances nearly similar to those of her Ro- man namesake. Lastly, in this as- sembly of illustrious Padovanese, is the bust of JBelzoni, by Kinaldi, repre- sented in a Turkish costume, between the two Egyptian statues which he presented to his native city. No circumstance in poor Belzoni's life pleased him more than his being able 354 Boute 31, — Padua: Archives-; Pinacoteca. Sect. IV. to present these trophies to Padiia. A medal was struck by the city as a token of their gratitude, in addition to the bust thus placed in its great hall. At one end of the hall is the Lapis Yituperii et Cessionis Sonorum^ of black granite, the altar of insolvency, upon which debtors cleared themselves by their exposure. At the other end of the hall stands the enormous wooden model of a horse, formerly in the Palazzo Eino, hj Donatello, upon which Vasari has expatiated with much admi- ration. It was executed in 1466 for a certain A. Capodalista, to figm'e at some public rejoicings, and was to have borne a statue of Jupiter; the head is a modern restoration. A meridian Hne crosses the hall: the ray of the sun passes through a hole in the centre of a golden face on the roof. ArcMvio Fuhhlico. Entrance from the Delegazione Municipale. — In a suite of apartments near the entrance to the Palazzo della Kagione, and form- ing a part of the mimicipal buD dings, are placed the extensive series of Fa- duan archives. They have been lately well attended to, and are in process of being arranged and catalogued, thanks to the zeal of the then Podesta Cav. di Zigno. In addition to the documents of the time of the Carrara s, when Padua had an independent political existence, an immense mass of diplomas and charters has been brought here from suppressed monastic establish- ments. Some of these rolls go back to the 9tli century ; a bull, in particular, of Pope Eugenius II., when the Roman pontiffs signed such documents, instead of, as at a later period, appending leaden Imllas. There are several diplomas of the Grerman emperors of the Franconian line. Two of Henry lY. (1091, 1095) are remarkable, as showing that he could ]iot sign his name, and had recourse to the illiterate expedient of a +. The series of the statutes of Padua is very complete, including those of Eccelino (1276) and of the Carraras (1362). Finacoteca contains several pictures belonging to the municipahty, 200 from suppressed convents, and miscellaneous collections purchased by the city . The Pinacoteca is placed in a series of rooms on the upper floor of the Delegazione Municipale, and contains several re- markable works of art. It, as well as the Museum, will soon be removed to a Palace purchased for the purpose by the municipality, in the Piazza dei Signori. Amongst the works of art may be particularly noticed — \st Room : Falma Giovane, a Sta. Francesca Romana; II Fiamingo^ a Holy Family ; An. Caracci, the same subject ; Carpaccio, a good Landscape. — 2nd Foom ; Seh. del Fiomho, Clu'ist bound to the column ; Cignani, a Magdalen ; II Fadovanino, a copy of Titian's "Woman accused of Adul- tery; Falma Giovane, the Resm'rec- tion, and a copy of Michael Angelo's Last Judgment ; Orhetto, Lot and his Daughters. — Srd Room : Giov, Fellini, Adoration of the Magi; Squarcione, a curious Ancona, with Saints. — 4th Foom : Faolo Veronese, a Crucifixion; Garofalo, a Holy Family; Campag- nola, a fresco of the Decollation of St. John the Baptist. — ^th Foom : II Fa- dovanino, Judith ; Fomanino, the Last Supper, and Bathsheba ; Castelfranco, a large composition representing the Delivery of the Keys of Padua to Doge Yalier ; Solimena, an Ecce Homo ; Falma Giovane, a Deposi- tion; FarmegianinOySi'Kolj Family, with tlie painter's name, the original sketch for P. Yeronese's Martyrdom of Santa Giustina. Besides the above will be worthy of notice a Holy Family, with St. John, signed and dated (1516), by Giov. Bellini; several paintings of the early Venetian School, attributed to the Vivarinis ; Potiphar and Bath- sheba, by II Fadovanino, &c. &c. Museo. — Attached to the Pinacoteca has been formed a museum, consisting of objects of a very miscellaneous na- ture : — ancient and mediaeval bronzes j ivories; majolica paintings fromUrbino, Faenza, and Padua — one of the latter by Nicolo Fizzolo, a scholar of Squarci- one's, is remarkable. Amongst the modern sculptures is a Magdalen by Canova. The Numismatic series em- braces all the coins struck at Padua, and Vei^tian Prov. Eoute si, — Padua: Museum; Duomo. a rich collection of those of Venice, as well as the seals of the Carrara rulers. The collection of Ancient Deeds and Autographs is most interesting, from the 11th c^nty. to the present day — three of the unfortunate Doge Marino FaHero are extreme rarities. Forming a part of the Museo is an extensiyo series of engravings. Bihlioteca Municipale. — Near the Musemn is the Municipal Library, recently formed, cliiefly out of that collected by Piazza. It is particularly rich in works connected with Padua: there are nearly 10,000 printed vols., and a very extensive series of manu- script documents of great local interest. . The Palazzo del Capitanio^ which occupies the entire W. side of the Piazza de' Signori. It is in a mixed style : the exterior and the fine doorway are by Falconetto (1532) ; the staircase, attri- buted to Palladia, is remarkably fine. The Piazza del Signori, so called from the dweUing of theCarraras having been in it, and on the W. side of the P. della Ragione. At one extremity is the Ch. of S. Clemente, and at the opposite one the P. del Capitanio, with its celebrated clock-tower. The Loggia del Consiglio, near it, now a military post, was erected at the end of the 15th centy. ; the great hall, with its three handsome windows, which formerly was the place of meeting of the muni- cipal body, is now dilapidated. The ancient column in the piazza belonged to a Roman edifice discovered in mak- ing excavations near the Ch. of S. Griobbe, in the last centy. The open spaces on the N. and S. sides of the Pal. della Kagione, are called the Piazze delle Frutte and delle JErbe, from the fruit and vegeta- ble markets held here. Striking clocks aresaid to havebeen in- vented at Padua ; and that which stands in the great battlemented tower in the Piazza de' Signori is claimed as the con- trivance of GiacomoDondo or Dondi. It was erected in 1344, at the expense of Ubertino di Carrara ; the works, how- ever, having been made by Maestro Novello in 1428. Besides the four- and-twenty hours, it indicates the days of the month, the course of the sun in the Zodiac, and the phases of the moon. Dondi obtained such celebrity for his performance that lie acquu^ed the sm'name of Orologio. It passed to his descendants, and the family of " Dondi dell' Orologio" still flourishes. This clock-tower forms the centre of the Pal. del Capitanio. CHURCHES. The Cathedral or Duomo claims Michael Angelo for its architect, at least of the choir and sacristy ; but it was two centuries in progress, not having been completed until 1754; it is probable, from the bad taste dis- played in some of the parts, that, if he was the designer, his plans were not carried out. The best picture in the chm^ch is a fine copy by il Padovanino from Titian, long supposed to be an original : it is in the Tribune, and represents the Virgin and Cliild. In the rt. aisle are two paintings, by Francesco Bassano : the Elight into Egypt and the Wise Men's Offering ; both well coloured. — Sassoferrato : a Virgin. — And in the N. transept a Ma- donna, attributed by many to Giotto, by others to Giusto Padovano. — On each side of the door in the IS", aisle are the tombs of Sperone Speroni and of Giulia de' Conti, liis daughter. A modern bust of Petrarch, who held a canonry in the cathedral, by Pinaldi, a scholar of Canova's, has been recently placed here at the expense of Canon Concini ; there are also two others, in the choir, in honour of Benedict XIV. and Cardinal Rezzonico. These last are curious monu- ments of priestly vanity. What had the pope done for the canons to deserve this token of gratitude ? He graciously granted them the privilege of wearing their pontifical copes in the choir. And what had Rezzonico done? Why, he jiad asked that favour for them. The Sacristy contains some early liturgical manuscripts, with miniatures of the 12th and 13th centuries— one, 356 Boute 31, — Padua: Dicomo ; S. Antonio, Sect. IV. an Evangeliarium, painted by a certain Isodorusin 1170 ; the other an Epistola- rium, with miniature histories from the Old and New Testaments, by Giova7ini Oaihana, in 1259 — and some curious reliquiarii of the 14th and 15th; in the subterranean ch. is preserved the body of St. Daniel, discovered in 1075. The Baptistery is a Lombard build- ing of the 13th centy., belonging to what may be termed the imitative class of these buildings, similar to those at Parma and Cremona. The walls and vaulting are entirely co- vered with frescoes, executed at the expense of Fina Buzzacarina, wife of Francesco di Carrara the elder. The frescoes on the outside, which have entirely disappeared, were by Giunto and Altichieri, and those inside, repre- senting histories of the Old and New Testament, by Griovanni and Antonio of Padua ; the cupola represents the Paradise, with numerous angels and saints upon it. Fina Carrara, her husband, with other members of the family, and Petrarch, are represented kneeling before the Virgin. Bihlioteca Capitolare. — Petrarch may be reckoned as one of its founders. It contains upwards of 10,000 vols., amongst which 450 of the 15th centy., and several inedited manuscripts. Amongst others, those of Sperone Speroni, with several letters of Tasso, a MS. of the 14th centy. containing the description of Dondi's clock, and some splendidly illuminated missals, and collections of decretals, also with miniatures, of the 14th and 15th cents. ; in the entrance hall are some curious old paintings of 1367, by Nicolo Semitecolo, relative to the life of S. Sebastian, much valued as a docu- ment in the history of the Venetian school. The Palazzo Vescovile has been modernised. It contains several fres- coes by J. Montagnana^ a pupil of GriO' vanni Bellini, painted about 1495. In one of the upper rooms the por- traits of the Bishops of Padua to 1494. In the chapel are the 12 Apostles, in chiaro'-souro ; the altarpiece, repre- senting the Annunciation, is by the same artist ; and in the bishop's private chapel, or oratory, are several small paintings, the best one by P. Veronese, representing the martyrdom of Santa Griustina ; and an Ancona of a double row of compartments, with S. Peter in the centre, and the Saviour on the Cross above. It is attributed to Squarcione. Over the door of one of the rooms is a portrait of Petrarch, which was originally painted upon the walls of the house in which he dwelt when he resided at Padua under the protection of the Carraras. The house was de- molished in 1581 ; but the fresco was cut from the wall, and thus preserved. This portrait is reckoned one of the most authentic of the poet, and is attributed to Guariento. Chm'ch of Sanf Antonio or of II Santo. " On the death of S. Antono, in the year 1231, the citizens of Padua decreed that a magnificent temple should be erected in honour of St. Anthony, their patron saint. To ac- complish this object, they sent for Nicolo da Pisa, and intrusted to him the construction of the new church, and he produced one of the most remarkable buildings in Italy. The fasliion of the day compelled liim to adopt the Pointed style, but with this he combined some of the Byzan- tine features of St. Mark's at Venice. St. Anthony's is croT^med with no less than 8 cupolas, which give it an oriental character. It is in the form of a Latin cross, 280 ft. in length, 138 ft. in breadth to the extremity of the tran- septs. It was completed in 1307, with the exception of the cupola over the choir, which was not added till 1424. If the external features of this church are meagre, if the three great portals are bald when compared with the con- temporary portals of the North, it must be remembered that Nicholas of Pisa was compelled, by the fashion of the day, to adopt a style which he did not like, and which, it must be confessed, he did not understand."— 6^. Knight, The W. front is divided into 4 pointed Venet. Prov. Route 31. — Padua: S. Antonio/ 357 arches of imequal ^vidtll, in the centre of which is a niche containing a statue of S. Antonio of the l-lth centy. Over tliis rises a portico of pointed arches, Avith a bahistrade, surmoimted by a handsome Lombard turret ; the fresco of SS. Antonio and Bernardino, in the lunette over the prmcipal entrance, was painted, as stated in the inscrip- tion below, by A. Mantegna^ in 1452 ; the two octagonal bell-towers beyond the transepts, on ranges of pointed niches and arches, are very beautiful. The cluu'ch of S. Antonio is remark- able for the splendour and beauty of its internal decorations. Occupying the N. or l.-hand transept, stands the chapel of the Saint, "z7 Santo" — (for thus is Anthony honoured at Padua, where he died, having been born at Lisbon) . It is illuminated day and night by the golden lamps, and silver candlesticks, and candelabras borne by angels, which burn before the shrine. The chapel was begun in 1500 by Giovanni Mi- Tiello, and Antonio his son ; continued by Sansovino^ and completed by Falconetto in 1553. The two richly worked pilasters are by Pironi and Matteo Aglio. A large and singular series of bas-reliefs relative to histories of the Saint, by various artists, sm-- round the walls. The best are : 1st on rt. by P. Lomhardo ; 3rd and 4th by Tullio Lomhardo ; the 6th, S. Antonio resuscitating a dead girl, by Sansovino. In the centre is the shrine, as splendid as gold and marble can make it : the bronze statues over the altar of St. Anthony, St. Bonaventura, and St. Louis are by Tiziano Aspetti. The two fine marble sculptures on the sides of the steps leading to the altar are the work of Orazio Marinali, 1450, and Filippo Parodi. They support two of the candelabras. Beyond the chapel of St. Antonio is the curious Gothic chapel of the Black Virgin, the Madonna Mora^ from the brown- com - plexioned picture over the altar ; this ch. is a portion of the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, built in 1110, and pulled down in great part to make room for the present edifice. In it is an interesting sarcophagus of one of the Obizzo family. The sepidchral lu-n near it, turned towards the aisle, belongs to Raphael Fulgoso, an eminent jm'isconsuit of the 14th centy. Opening out of this chapel is another of the Beato Luca Belludi, companion of S. Antonio, covered with frescoes relative to St. Philip and St. James, and attributed to Giunto Pado- vano : the Apparition of S. Antonio to the Beato, to announce the liberation of Padua from Eccehno, is historically interestmg : they have been sadly in- jm^ed by restoration in the last centy. On the opposite side of the ch. is the chapel of S. Felix (5th on rt.). It was originally dedicated to St. James, and erected in 1376, but subse- quently to St. Felix, when his remains w^ere deposited here in 1504. It is se- parated from the body of the ch. by a range of Gothic arches in red Veronese marble, above which rises a species of entablature of coloured marbles dis- posed in fish-scales form. The wall, lu- nettes above, and vaulting, are covered with excellent early frescoes, by Jacopo Avanzi andAltichieridaZevio (1376) — the worse, however, for the injuries they received in clearing ofi" the whitewash with which they had been covered, and for the restorations. The sub- jects are taken partly from the legen- dary history of St. James, and partly from the Gospels : they are striking even in theu' present state. The first seven frescoes are considered to be by Altichieri. They are full of life and expression. The wall behind the altar is divided into five spaces by co- lumns and pointed arches, correspond- ing to those opposite which separate the chapel from the church. In the centre one the subject is the Crucifixion. To the rt. of this the soldiers are casting lots for the garments of Christ. The skill displayed in this composition seems almost in advance of the time (about 1376) of the painter. To the 1. of the Crucifixion is the crowd following Jesus from the city : one group is beau- tiful ; it represents a woman supporting the fainting figiu-e of the Virgin Mother, 358 Route SI,— Padua: S. Antonio. Sect. IV. followed by another who is leading along her own infant son. Farther on, to the rt. of the Crucifixion, is the tomb of Bartolomea Scrovegna, wife of Marsilio Carrara, the second lord of Padua; the space above it is filled with the picture of the Resurrection. Two tombs on the opposite side con- tain the remains of the founder of the chapel, Bonifazio de' Lupi, Marquis of Soragna, a general in the service of the Carraras : the picture over it represents the Deposition from the Cross, and members of the Rossi family, contem- poraneous lords of Parma. These five paintings by Avanzi and AUichieri fill the lower part of the side of the chapel opposite the entrances ; they are each under a pointed arch. Over them the space is divided into tln*ee compartments, each also canopied by a pointed arch, and filled with a painting. The subject of that on the 1. of the spectator is the Denial of St. Peter ; of that in the centre the via dolorosa^ or CMst led to be crucified ; and of that on the rt. the Entomb- ment. In the spandrils to the extreme rt., and 1. of the five lower arches the Annunciation is painted. The angel Gabriel occupies the spandril to the extreme 1., and the Yirgin that to the extreme rt. The head of the Virgin is very beautiful. A long narrow window is in the end of the chapel to the rt. of the entrance. One of the compart- ments on that side contains the picture of the Yirgin and Child, engraved by D'Agincourt ; the others are filled up with scenes from the lives of St. Clu'is- topher and other saints, now much efiaced. The opposite end is divided into irregidar compartments, and painted by the before-mentioned art- ists with subjects from the Scriptures and from legends. Above the altar are 5 statues of the 13th centy. ; that of St. Felix, upon the altar, is by Minello (1504). Over the stalls which sur- round the chapel are good half-figures of saints, but much injured by restoration. The Presbytery and Choir are divided from the rest of the church by red mar- ble balustrades and bronze doors. The statues here of the saints, and of Faith, Temperance, Charity, and Force, are by Tiziano Aspetti. Donatella con- tributed the bronze rehefs which decorate the high altar, and the fine group of the Madonna and saints over it. The 8 bas-reliefs of subjects from the Old Testament, and the symbols of the Evangelists, under the Music Gallery, were cast by Yelluti, his pupil, in 1488, By DonateUo, also, are the great bronze crucifix, and a bas-relief in gilt terra- cotta of the Deposition over the door leading to the chapel of the relics be- hind it. Cicognara points out as the finest work of art in this most sumptuous sanctuary the great candelabrum or Paschal candlestick of bronze, standing on the 1. of the liigh altar, executed by Andrea Riccio in 1564, the resiJt of ten years' labour. It is a species of cinquecento adaptation of the antique form. The human figures possess ex- quisite grace and simpHcity. Four emblematical figures upon the pedes- tal have occasioned much perplexity to the commentators. They have been explained as symbohzing astrology, music, liistory, and cosmography. In the presbytery are 2 fine bronze bas- rehefs by the same master : David and Goliath; and David dancing before the Ark. The objects most deserving of notice in the other chapels are — in that of the Holy Sacrament (3rd on rt.), the bronze bas-rehefs on the altar, by DonateUo ; and in the sacristy the presses, with their fine inlaid or in- tarsia work, executed in 1452 by the two Canozzis, from designs of Squar- cioni ; they have been greatly injm^ed by subsequent restorations. The sepulchral monuments, which are numerous, are many of them fine. The tombs of Gattamelata and of his son are in the same chapel. The monument to Alessandro Contarini, upon the 2nd pier on 1., erected in 1555, at the expense of the republic, is fr'om the design of Sanmicheli, the sculptures being by A. Vittoria and Danese Cattaneo. Sanmicheli also de- signed the monument opposite to this Venet. Prov. JRoute SI. — Padua: Churches. 359 on the 2iid pier on the rt., to Card, £embo, erected by Card. Qiiirmi ; the bust is by CaftaneOy and the inscrip- tion by Paolo Giovio. Several fresco paintings still exist on the pilasters of the nave ; those of the Crucifixion, with SS. Sebastian and Gregory, and nmnerous prophets (on the 5th on the rt.), by J". Montagnana, and of the Madonna (on the 2nd on the 1.), attributed to Stefano di Fer- rara or Filippo I/ipjpi, are the most worthy of notice. In the adjoining handsome cloisters, and in the passage leading to them from the ch., are several sepulcln^al monuments ; that of Manno Donati (1370) is remarkable for its inscrip- tion by Petrarch ; of Luigi Visconti (1553), by Sanmicheli, Many monu- ments have been brought here from desecrated churches, one of wliich, be- tween the 2 cloisters, is a good Gotliic tomb of 1390 ; out of these cloisters opens the Hbrary of II Santo, contain- ing nearly 15,000 vols. In one of the rooms of the convent is a Holy Family by Garofalo. In a hall open- ing out of the sacristy are some relics of the paintmgs relative to SS. Francis and Antony, attributed to Giotto. In front of the chm-ch is an frregular and pictm'esque piazza, partly sur- rounded by the conventual buildings. In a corner of it, near the entrance to the cloisters, is the sepulchre of Ro- lando Piazzola, under a Gothic ca- nopy, one of the stanchest defenders of his country's liberties against the Emperor Henry YII. In the centre stands the equestrian statue of " Gatta Melata," whose real name was Erasmo da Nami, by Donatello, a production full of vigour. It is the only equestrian statue he ever executed, and bears his name, " Opus DonateUi Elor." Open- ing out of the piazza is The Scuola del Santo contains some frescoes by Titian and Cam'pagnola, representing the miracles ascribed to St. Anthony. Four are by Titian. The first, a miracle of St. Antonio, restoring to life a woman killed by her husband in a fit of jealousy. The female heads are very beautiful. This fresco has suffered much of late years. The second, over the door of the sacristy, the saint miraculously uniting a boy's foot, which had been cut off by accident. The tlifrd, the re- storing to life of a boy who had fallen into a boiling caldron. The fourth, St. Antonio causing an infant to speak, in order to bear witness to his mother's innocence, in answer to an accusation of infidelity by her husband. Close to Sanf Antonio is the small church of San Giorgio, erected as the sepulchral chapel of liis family by Raimondino di Soragna in 1377 ; it contains some frescoes by Avanzi. Altichieri helped him here also; but the greater part are, without doubt, the work of Avanzi, whose style of con- ception is seen to much more advan- tage here than in the frescoes in the chapel of S. Felix. The subjects are from the New Testament, and histories of SS. George, Catherine, and Lucia : the large painting of the Crucifixion behind the altar, and over it the Crown- ing of the Yirgin, are very fine; a votive painting represents several mem- bers of the Lupa family ; the now bare sarcophagus was formerly surrounded by 10 gilt statues of members of the Soragna family, wliich were destroyed during the occupation by the French soldiery at the end of the last centy. : their portraits are seen in one of the paintings, kneeling before the Yirgin, to whom they are presented by S. George their patron. Ch. of Santa Giustina is supposed to have been erected on the site of a Temple of Concord. It was repeatedly ruined and rebuilt. The edifice raised after the destruction of the city by Attila was thrown down by an earth- quake in 1117. In the 13th century it was rebuilt. Two grifibns standing at the top of the flight of steps in front of the present structure, are vestiges of the earlier clim-ch. The present edifice was begun in 1502, by Padre Girolamo da Brescia, and completed 1532-1549, by Andrea Mo^ 360 \Route SI, — Padua: Churches. Sect. IV. rone. The facade is rough and un- finished ; but the general style of the interior is good, from its proportions, its great expanse, and its many piers and lofty cupolas. The disposition of the aisles is rather that of a series of vaulted recesses opening into the nave, and nearly as high as that is, and com- municating with one another by lower arched openings, than a contmued aisle. The Martyrdom of Sta. Griustina at the end of the clioh and beliind the high altar, by Paolo Veronese, is the best picture in the chiu'ch. The other paintings are: — Car lino and Gahriele Cagliari in 1st chapel on rt. : the Con- version of St. Paul.— a Rodolfi: St. Benedict instituting his Order. — Li- leri: St. Gertrude supported by Angels, in 2nd on rt. — Inica Gio7'dano : The death of Sta. Scolastica, in 4tli on rt. — Palma Giovane : St. Benedict with St. Placidus and St. Mam'us, in 5th on rt. ; and near the same chapel, G. Maganza, Totila King of the Goths falhng before St. Be- nedict. The chapel on rt. of the choir contains a beautiful group by Parodi, representing a dead Christ, Avith the Virgin, Mary Magdalene, and St. John. The fine sculptured wood- ■\vork of the choir w^as executed from designs of ^. Campagnola in 1556 ; the stalls in the Coro Vecchio, the only portion of the older cli. that was pre- served, date from a century earlier; they are by two artists of Parma and Piacenza. The painting over the altar in this choir, of the Virgin with 4 Saints, is a fine work of Romanino's : behind the altar in the 1. transept is a sepulchral urn erected by Gualportino Mussato in 1316, in which are preserved the pretended remains of St. Luke. A small chapel opening out of the rt. transept contains a miraculous image of the Virgin, supposed to have been brought from Constantinople by St. Urius, where it escaped the flames raised to destroy it by the Iconoclast Emp. Constantinus in the 8th cen- tury. Beneath the chapel of the Virgin are two ancient cells called the Prison of St. Giustina. There is a fine cloister annexed to this church. In a cortile adjoining is a piece of sculptm'e of the 11th centy., one of the earHest specimens of medi- aeval allegory. It represents Mei cy and Justice. The large cloister is a part of the older monastery. It contains the few remains of a curious series of pamt- ings of the life of St. Benedict, exe- cuted between 1489 and 1494, by Ser- nardo Parentino, Ca7njpagnola, and Girolamo Padovano. TJie French converted this monastery into a bar- rack, which it still is ; some of the paintings were whitewashed over, others have been spoiled by the soldiery. The Prato della Valle, or Piazza delle Statue ; more recently of Vitto- rio ^manuele. The Chm'ch of Sta. Giustina stands at the extremity of a very large, irregular open space, the centre of which is occupied by the Prato della Valle, an oval surrounded with statues, and by a canal, supplied with water from the Bacchiglione. It was intended to hmit these memo- rials to the great men of Padua; but as even local fame could not supply a sufficient number of subjects, they have been forced to enhst some celebrities other countries, who, as Auditores of Patavini, had been educated in the university ; Antenor, Pietro di Abano, Petrarch, Tasso, Galileo ; 78 in all ; that of the Marquis Giovanni Poleni, known as a correspondent of Sir I Newton, is one of the early works (1789) of Canova. Gustavus of Sweden, the *' Lion of the North," has a full right to his station here, for in 1609 he studied at Padua, and attended the lectures of Galileo ; and in consequence of this, when his unfortunate namesake visited Padua in 1783, he requested permission to erect this statue of his great ancestor. Statues of Gietto and Dante, by Vela, the latter on the occasion of the sex- centenary anniversary of the poet s birth. May, 1865, have been placed be- neath the Muncipio, on the N. side of the Prado. The Arena, the form of which and Venet. Prov". Houte 31, — Padua: Giotto s Chapel, 361 its name, sufficiently indicate that it was a Roman amphitheatre. No traces of seats can be found ; they may have been constructed of wood, as at Pola. Here and there the Roman masonry can be distinguished; but, in the middle ages, the Roman circuit was, like the amphitheatres of Nimes and Aries, con- Tcrted into a place of defence by the family of Dalesmanini, who crowned it with battlements. It afterwards passed to the Scrovegno family, in the person of Enrico Scrovegno, the son of Regi- naldo, consigned by Dante to the In- ferno for his usury and avarice. Enrico, about 1303, built within its precinct the chapel of the Annunziata, commonly called Santa Maria delV Arena; but, whether as a domestic chapel, or for the use of the order of the CavaUieri di Santa Maria, is uncertain. This order of rehgious chivalry was instituted, not for the defence of the faith in general, but for the worship of the Virgin in particular. They obtained large pos- sessions, and thereupon abandoned themselves to worldly luxury, whence they were called Frati Godenti ; but their career of vice and profligacy was cut short by papal authority ; they were suppressed, and their property made over to other religious orders. There is not, however, the slightest evidence that the chapel was ever ap- propriated to this order, or that the founder was a member of it. The in- scription beneath his veiy curious statue in the sacristy, — " Propria figura Domini Henrici Scrovegni, militis de I'iLrena," — and probably put up in his lifetime, only shows that he was a kniglit ; and his dress is merely the ordinary *' abito civile " of the time. We must, therefore, adopt the suppo- sition, that the chapel was erected for domestic worship. At this period (1306) Giotto^ then young, was working at Padua, and Scrovegno employed him not only to build, but to decorate the edifice. The Chapel consists of a single aisle with a tribune at its extremity in St simple Gothic style. The unity of de- sign apparent in the chapel and in the N. Italy—lSGd. ipaintings no doubt resulted from both I being designed by the same mind ; and i what adds to their interest is, that I Dante lodged with Giotto when the ; works were in progress. Of all the I existing productions of Giotto, none are j so perfect and genuine, or so truly I exemplify the character and beauties of his style. The subjects are taken partly from the New Testament, and partly from the Apocryphal Gospels. Standing as the chapel does at the end of a green court-yard, backed by gardens growing vegetable stuff, with- out a single trace of the monastic build- ings which formerly were attached to it, and which with it were, till late in the last centy., hermetically sealed from public gaze and curiosity, every asso- ciation Avhich might raise an emotion in the mind is removed, save that which is to be derived from the contem- plation of its internal mural decora- tion. But let those who have so far cultivated a love and knowledge of art as to appreciate its high capabilities, most carefully study these frescoes of Giotto. They will there find Sacred History illustrated with a dignified as well as touching simplicity, eminently befitting the Divine theme. No artist of any period has been more successful than Giotto in telling liis story in a striking and intelligible manner. Add to this indispensable ingredient in the composition of a great historical painter Giotto's exquisite feeling for graceful beauty and deeply pathetic expression, and you have the chief qualifications of works which, without using the lan- guage of middle-age mania, may be safely pronounced as possessing the very highest interest. Second in con- sideration, but equally remarkable, is Giotto's skill in ornamental design ; in this light, the chapel may be considered as a perfect model of taste. The beauty of the ornaments, particularly those which divide the walls into panels to receive the various subjects, and the judgment which has kept everything I not purely ornamental work from the I ceiling, are some points of excellence, I which it is to be regretted have not 362 MouteSl. — Padua: Giotto's ChapeL Sect. IV. been, and are not, more frequently observed and imitated. On the wall over the entrance is The Last Judgment. This is much injured : some of the groups of the blessed have great beauty. The vices of the clergy are brought forward with peculiar promi- nence. In the centre, and not connected at all with the rest of the composition, Scrovegno is represented, offering his chapel, which is accepted by 3 angels. The general series is distributed into 3 ranges, of which the uppermost, on the rt. hand, contains scenes from the Life of the Virgin, principally from the Apo- cryphal Grospel attributed to St. James the Less. Commencing on the S.wall and nearest the altar, — 1, Joachim driven from the Temple by the Priests, be- cause he had not begotten any issue in Israel. 2, Joachim returns to his sheepfolds, and prays during 40 days and 40 nights. 3, The Angel G-abriel appears to Anna, and reveals that the prayers of her husband have been heard. 4, Sacrifice of Joachim. 5, Joachim's Vision. 6, The meet- ing of Joachim and Anna at the gate of the Temple. "And Joachim went down with the shepherds; and Anna stood by the gate, and saw Joachim C3ming with the shepherds ; and she ran, and, falling on his neck, said, ' Now I know that the Lord hath blessed me,' " — a most graceful composition. — On the wall opposite. 7, The Birth of the Virgin. 8, The Presentation of the Virgm in the Temple. 9, The Priests having declared that the mar- riageable men of the House of David should bring their rods to the Temple, and that whosesoever rod should bud was to become the husband of Mary, they come, each man bringing his rod. 10, The Watching of the Rods. 11, The Marriage of Joseph and Mary : the Vir- gin and the other female figm^es are graceful. 12, The Procession after the Marriage. This, perhaps the most beautiful painting in the series, is the one which has most suffered by damp. 13, The Annunciation over the chancel arch, in two divisions : here the grace which Griotto imparts to his female figures is peculiarly discernible. This compartment is under 14, and forms the connecting link between the Life of the Virgin and that of our Lord, which forms a second series. Above, or 2nd row on rt. — 1, The Nativity, injured ; but the colouring yet in parts remarkably vigorous. 2, The Wise Men's Offering. 3, The Presentation of Jesus in the Temple. 4, The FHght into Egypt. 5, The Massacre of the Innocents. 2nd row on 1., — 6, Our Lord disputing amongst the Doctors ; much injiu'ed, but some fine heads can yet be made out. 7, The Baptism in the Jordan. 8, The Mar- riage in Cana of Gahlee. 9, The Rais- ing of Lazarus : a magnificent compo- sition ; awe approaching to terror in the bystanders, death yet struggling with life in the resuscitated corpse. 10, The Entry into Jerusalem : groups full of animation and spirit. 11, Christ driving the Money-changers out of the Temple. On the 1. of the altar is the hiring of Judas, w^ith a demon behmd the traitor. Below, or lower range on 1. — the third series begins with, 12, The Last Supper : much ornament, very mi-- nutely finished, is introduced into the architecture ; each apostle has a marked and peculiar dress, either in colour or fashion, which is preserved in all the other paintings in which they are introduced. 13, Clirist washing the Feet of the Apostles, a very beau- tiful composition. 14, Jesus betrayed by Judas. 15, Jesus before Caiaphas. 16, Jesus scourged and crowned with Thorns. 17, Jesus bearing the Cross : a full composition with some beautiful groups, particularly Mary and her com- panions pushed back by the Jews. 18, The Crucifixion : the thieves are omit- ted. 19, The Deposition from the Cross. In expression this is considered the finest of aU the existing works of Giotto, here or elsewhere : the deep and tender affliction of the Virgin, the impassioned eagerness of St. John, and the steady composure of Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea, are all in accordance with their characters. 20, The Noli me tan- Vej^et. Prov. Rte. 31. — Padua: Giotto's Chapel. 363 gere and ResiuTection : the figure of St. Mary Magdalene is an admirable personification of devotion. 21, The Ascension : the Virgin is the most pro- minent figiu'e. 22, The Descent of the Holy Grhost upon the Apostles : singu- lar in its arrangement. The lowest range of paintmgs con- sists of allegorical or symbohcal figures of the Virtues and Vices intermixed into architectm'al compartments, pre- senting imitations of marble, panel- ling, &c., with borders, exactly like those executed in mosaic upon the tomb of Edward the Confessor in Westminster Abbey. This species of decoration seems to have been a favour- ite amongst the Italian artists of the time of Griotto, as it is found in the papal chapel of Avignon, painted in liis style, or by liis school. Opposite to each virtue is the antagonistic vice; tlie figures are tinted in cliiar'-oscuro. In many the allegory is very intelli- gible ; in others obscure. The Virtues are turned towards the Paradise, the Vices in the direction of the Inferno or Last Judgment. Commencing on the rt. — Hope : winged, scarcely touching the earth which she is quitting, and eagerly stretching forwards and up- wards to the celestial crown. — On. the opposite wall. Despfilr : portrayed as a female, who, at the instigation of the Fiend, is in the act of hanging herself; — Charity : sl triple flame issues from her head. Ilor countenance is beaming with joy. She holds up her right hand to receive gifts from heaven ; and in her left is the vase fi'om which she dis- penses them. — Envy: standing in flames : a serpent issues from her mouth, and recoils on herself: she has the ears and claws of a wolf. — Faith : holding the creed, and trampling on a horoscope : in the other hand she grasps the cross. When w^e recollect the trust which, in the age of Giotto, wae placed in astrologers, the boldness of thought which tliis figure discloses will be appreciated. — Unbelief: a Ro- man helmet upon her head ; in her hand an ancient heathen idol, to w^hich she is noosedj and by wliich she I is di'agged to the pit. — Justice : a crowned matron seated upon a throne ; I her countenance severe and thoughtfial. The scales of the balance which she poises are perfectly even. In one an angel presents a laurel-wreath to the good; in the other is the destroyer, wielding the sword for the punislunent of the wicked. Beneath is a compo- sition with figures hunting, sporting ; apparently indicating the ease and com- fort enjoyed by those who live under a good government. — Injustice: an elderly man in the dress of a judge, of a harsh and forbidding countenance: he is " sitting in the gate ;" but the path to his tribunal is overgrown with thorns and briers, and his fingers terminate in claws. In one hand he holds an un- sheathed sword for punishment ; in the other a hook (like that with which de- mons are usually represented), as the emblem of rapacity. In the compart- ment below, travellers assaulted and murdered, indicate, in apparent con- trast to the figures on the opposite side, the miseries of living under an evil government. — Temperance : a female figure fully draped. She holds a sword, but it is bound into the scabbard : a bit is placed in her mouth — emblem of restraint. — Anger: a hideous crone, tearing her dress. — Fortitude : in an- cient armour ; the skin of a Hon thrown over the shoulder. She rests , tranquilly upon the sliield which she opposes to her enemies. — Inconstancy : a young girl, and, with some touch of satire, represented in the dress of a Flo- rentine damsel, falling backwards from a wheel, upon which she tries to balance herself; in allusion to Eccles.xxxiii. 5. — Prudence : sitting at a desk, and contem- plating herself in a mirror. At the back of her head is the face of an old man, but apparently a mask, or part of her head-di'ess, and not a second face, as in the tomb of San Pietro Martire at Milan. Rafael adopted this mode of allegorising the Virtues. — Folly: in a fantastic dress, probably intended for that of a court fool, or jester. The tribune, or choir, is painted with the history of the Virgin, by some sup^ . E 2 364 Route 31. — Padua : Church of the Eremitani, Sect. IV. posed to be by Taddeo di Bartolo of Siena, but, from their close approach to Griotto's own style, with more likeli- hood by his pupil Taddeo Gaddi : be this as it may, they are much inferior to those of G-iotto. They represent, 1. the visit of the Virgin to St, Elizabeth ; 2, The Pact between the Devil and Judas ; 3, The Virgin announcing her Death to St. John ; 4, Her Death, and in the three lower compartments of the choir, 5, The Obsequies K)f the Virgin ; 6, Her Ascent to Heaven ; and 7, Her Coronation. Behind the altar is the tomb of Enrico Scrovegno, who died in exile at Venice in 1320. It is highly finished in the style of the Pisan school, surmounted by 3 small statues of the Virgin and 2 Angels. The sculptor is unknown, although on one of the statues is cut the name of Johannis Magistri Nicoli, whence it has been supposed the work of Griov. Pisano. The win- dows of the chapel mostly retain the ancient Venetian glazing — small circu- lar panes of thick glass, — which adds to its antique efiect. This glazing is not now often found in Italy ; but it may be remarked that one example exists in England, at Chester, in a room overlooking the cloisters. In the small sacristy opening out of this tribune is the statue of the founder placed in a Grothic niche.* The key of the chapel is kept at the dwelling-house in the Arena, where the proprietor resides. Inquiry should also be made for the key of the sacristy, which is often locked. Ch. of the Sremitani, or S. Agostino degli Uremitani. This church adjoins the Arena. It was erected between 1264 and 1276, the roof 30 years afterwards by the same Era Gio- * The frescoes of the Arena chapel have been reproduced (1857) in a beautiful series of chromo-lithographs, accompanied by artistic de- tails, by the Arundel Society. The general view of the chapel, from the pencil of one of our most talented amateur artists, Mrs. Higford Birr, is a remarkable work, whether considered as a most faithful copy, executed with consummate skill and feeling, or for the application of chromo- lithography in reproducing the now rapidly perishing works of the early Italian painters. vanni who put up that of the Palazzo deUa Eagione, and who is said to have employed here the old one which he obtained for his labour. It is a most solemn and striking building, from its simplicity as well as its ornament. It con- sists of a single nave, nearly 300 ft. long, lighted from the extremities. The large clioir has some curious frescoes, attri- buted to GuarientOf and remarkable, not only for the beauty of the design, but for their mystical and allegorical cha- racter. The lower tier in chiaro-scuro consist of the planets ruling the con- stellations more peculiarly appropriated to them. — The Earth appears crowned with the papal tiara, and placed between Industry and Idleness, an allegory of which it is difficult to hit the precise meaning. — Mercury is dressed like a friar. — Mars is mounted on a spirited steed, painted with much action. — Venus is adjusting her attire: and so on: all very strange. — Above are large paintings, in 6 compartments on either side, representing subjects from the lives of the saints ; some of them have suf- fered from damp, time, and neglect. By Mantegnaand his school are fine frescoes in the large chapel of SS. Christopher and James, opening out of the transept on the rt. The best compartment, though unfortunately damaged, is that representing the death of St. Chris- topher, in which Mantegna has intro- duced himself in the character of a young Soldier, holding a spear. Squar- cione appears as another soldier, in a green dress near him. The compart- ments of the upper row are by Bono andAnsuino, of Eorli, disciples of Squar- cione ; they have great merit, though in- ferior to their master's. The altar of this chapel has several figures of terra- cot ta, painted of a bronze colour. They are by Giovanni di Pisa, a pupil of Donatello. Cicognara ranks them very high for their grace and movement as well as for the beauty of the drapery. Behind the altar are frescoes, by K Pizzolo. The painting of the Assumption of the Vir- gin, with the Apostles below, is also by Pizzolo, a competitor of Mantegna's. The painting over the high altar of the Venetian Prov. lioute 31, — Padua: Churches. 36c church, by FiumlceUi^ is a grand com- position. It is a votive picture of the Madonna and four Saints, presented by the city of Padua : in it is introduced a portrait of the Doge Andrea Gritti, holding the city in his hand. On the altar of the sacristy is a good St. John the Baptist in the Desert by Guido. The tombs in this church are in- teresting : none more so than that of Jacopo di Carrara, 5th Lord of Padua, the fi'iend and patron of Petrarch, v^^ho composed the Latm epitaph upon it. The companion to this monument is that of Ubertino di Carrara (died 1354). Each is beneath a canopy as large as a church portal : the figures are of beau- tiful execution. The countenance of Ubertino, the hard old man, is expres- sive. These two monuments originally stood in the suppressed Ch. of S. Agos- tino. A monument in the Capella del Crocifisso, on the rt. of the high altar, is attributed to one of the Carraras. With the exception of these tombs, there are but few memorials of the once powerful lords of Padua. The extinction of the family is one of the most gloomy events in the liistory of Venice. After a vaHant defence the last Francesco di Carrara and his two sons surrendered Padua to the Venetians (1405) : they were independent princes nowise subject to Venice ; but by the Council of Ten they were condemned and strangled in the dungeons of St. Mark, 1406. Francesco made a despe- rate resistance in his cell, but was over- powered, and a member of the noble family of PriuH did not disdain to per- form the task of executioner. The monument to the architect of the church is in the rt.-hand transept : he is represented by an odd half-length statue, clad in a robe. Near it are those of Spigelius and VaUsnieri, two celebrated professors in the university. The splendid monument of Bcnavidcs, professor of law (1583), is by Amma- nati : the artist has equally displayed his talents as a sculptor and as an ar- cliitect. Benavides would not trust his executors, and therefore he erected this memorial in his lifetime : it is decorated with allegorical figures of Wisdom and Labom*, Honour and Fame. In the passage leading from the 1. tran- sept to the sacristy is the slab tombstone of Pietro di Abano. (Petri Aponi Ci- neres, ob. An. 1351, £etat. 66.) This ch. is considered as the chapel of the uni- versity, and tlie students attend divine service here on Sundays and holidays. As it received them when living, *so it was their place of repose when dead; and there are many touching inscriptions to their memory. In the sacristy is a bas- relief, by Canova, to the memory of Wil- liam Frederick Prince of Orange, who died at Padua in 1799, at the age of 25. It represents the ever-recurring weeping female figure, near which is a pelican. The design has much beauty of form, and it is carefully executed. Near this is the Grothic monument of red marble to the memory of Paulus de Venetiis (ob. 1419), and upon which he is represented lecturing to his pupils, men as old as himself, and with cowls and hoods ; but, as at Pavia, the dignity of the professor is preserved by his being represented four times as large as his auditors. Amongst the other churches of Padua may be noticed : — Ch. of Santa Sofia, supposed to be the ancient cathedral of Padua. Some portions of the architecture and sculptures, especially about the prin- cipal portal, are of the 12th century, and in a rude style. It contains some early paintings. Ch. of San Michele : a fragment pre- served by the care of a private indi- vidual, and converted into an oratory. Here is a painting of the Adoration of the Magi, by Jacopo da Verona, dated 1397; it has merit in itself; but its principal interest consists in its por- traits of several members of the Carrara family. In the painting of the Funeral of the Virgin opposite are said to be introduced those of Boccaccio, Dante, Petrarch, and Pietro di Abano. The body of tlie church, which was covered with excellent frescoes, has been pidled down, 366 Route 3 1 . — Padua : University . Sect. IV. Ch. of San Gaetano^ not far from the Arena. The fine faQade is by Scamozzi. Two paintings by Maganza^ the Ado- ration of the Magi, and our Lord dis- puting in the Temple, and a small half- figure of the Virgin by Titian, are in the chapel of the Holy Sepulchre. Ch. of Sta. Maria in Vanzo, erected in the 16th century. The painting over the high altar is by Bartolommeo Montagna : it represents the Virgin surrounded by a host of saints. The fresco of the Coronation of the Virgin on the vault is by the same painter. Jacopo Bassano, Our Lord carried to the Sepulchre, in the chapel on 1. of the high altar, is a striking composition. The artist, according to his custom, has introduced the portraits of himself and his family. Annexed to this church is the Seminario Vescovile, or College for students in theology, which contains an excellent library of upwards of 40,000 printed books and several MSS., amongst which is an autograph letter of Petrarch to Jacopo Dondi, a curious Psalter of the 14th cent., and the ori- ginal MS. in 12 vols, by Forcellini of his great Latin Dictionary. Attached to the Seminary is an extensive printing office. Ch. of II Carmine y near the gate, on entering from the Railway station, for- merly Gothic. In the Sciiola adjoining, now neglected, are several paintings of considerable merit, by Campagnola and Girolamo Badovano, and two which may be by Titian or JPalma Vecchio. The University, or, in more ancient language, the Studio of Padua, enjoyed considerable celebrity as early as 1221, when Frederic II. commanded the students of Bologna to forsake that city, which had incurred his displea- sure, and to resort to the city of An- tenor. At first it was pre-eminent in law, and the great Baldus here taught and professed what lawyers caU the written reason." Padua also greatly excelled in medi- cine ; and the professorships of the university include some of the greatest medical names of the 16th and 17th CQniwYiQs -—Vesalius (1540), Fallopius (1551), Fahricius ah Aquajpendente (1565), and Spigelius (1618). Here Sanctorius taught (1611) ; and, in times nearer our own, Morgagni conti- nued to emulate their learning. The university, which was specially pro- tected and encouraged by the Vene- tians, enjoys perhaps greater reputation as a medical schodl than any in Italy. It has five faculties, theology, law, me- dicine, philosophy, and mathematics. Each faculty has a Direttore or Dean^ one of the senior Professors, who, with the Rettore Magnijico, elected by .the several faculties and approved by the government, constitute the Senatus Academicus. There are 46 professorships, and the students vary in number between 1500 and 2000. The public treasury contributes only about 10,000 lire annually towards the general expenses. Attached to the University are seve- ral establishments in different parts of the town, such as 4 clinical schools for medicine, surgery, diseases of the eye, and midwifery ; veterinary and agricul- tural schools ; a botanic garden and an astronomical observatory. The Palace of the Unimrsity is called il Bo, or the Ox, it is said from the sign of the inn upon the site of which it stands ; something in the same way that the Jlog-rnarJcet is honoured at Oxford. Others dispute this origin of the name, and ascribe it to a different tradition, and point out the figure of the animal on a column within. The buildingwas begun in 1493, at the expense of the republic of Venice. The great court, attributed to Palladio, but perhaps with more reason to San- sovino, is very handsome : the walls are entirely covered with the armorial bear- ings of the members. At the top of the staircase is the statue of JElena I/u- crezia Cornaro Biscopia, who died 1684, aged 48 years. She spoke Hebrew, Arabic, G-reek, Latin, Spanish, and French, with fluency, was a tolerable poetess, an excellent musician, wrote mathematical and astronomical disser- tations, and received a doctor's degree from the university. She died un- married, having refused many advan- Venetun Prov. ifoufa 31. — Padua: Library; Olsermtory, 367 tageous oflfers. The Anatomical The- atre was built by Fahricius ah Aqua- pendente in 1594. Although it only replaced a pre-existing one of the 15th centy., it still is the oldest in Europe. The design for it is said to have been given by Era Paolo Sarpi. The collection of anatomical preparations and models is worthy of a visit. That of natm^al liistory was first founded by Vallisnieri m 1734 : the mmeralogical and paleon- tological divisions are the most com- plete; the latter particularly so in fossils of the Veronese and Vicentine hills, especially in fossil fishes from Monte Bolca. GaUleo was professor of mathematics here for upwards of ten years ; and in the Gahinetto di Fisica they exhibit one of his vertebrae, pur- loined probably when his remains were removed, in 1757, to their present resting-place in the church of Santa Croce at Florence. The Gahinetto Antiquario e di Numismatica^ opening out of the cortile, contains several Ro- man and Greek bronzes, inscriptions, &c., and a curious papyrus from Ra- venna, of the years 616-619 — a deed of sale. As Padua can show the earliest ana- tomical theatre, so also does it possess the most ancient Botanic Garden in Europe, it having been instituted by the Venetian senate in 1543. The cele- brated Prosper Alpinus professed here in 1545. It is situated near the churches of II Santo and Sta. Giustina, and is laid out in the ancient formal style. The garden is interesting as con- taining some of the oldest specimens of exotic trees and plants now common in Europe, the patriarchs of our shrub- beries, plantations, and conservatories. The Lebanon cedar, the oriental plane, and a Gleditchia 93 feet high, may be noticed. The magnolias are superb. Attached to the garden are a Botanical Museum with an extensive herhanum^ and a Library of 5000 volumes with several MSS. BihliotJieca Fuhlica. This library, considered as that of the University, is situated at some distance from it, in the vast cortile of the Palazzo del Capitanio. The large hall, which formed a part of the palace of the Carraras, is the most extensive in Padua after that of the P. deUe Ragione : the printed books amount to upwards of 100,000 volumes, and the MSS. to 1500. This hall, formerly covered with frescoes by Avanzi and GuarientOy having fallen, the colossal frescoes of heroes and emperors which now deco- rate it were painted in 1540, chiefly by D. Campagnolay the portrait of Pe- trarch, much injured, alone remaining. The library is open, except on Wednes- days and feast-days, from 9 a.m. to 3 P.M., from Nov. 3rd to Sept. 7th. The Specola, or astronomical ob- servatory, dates from 1767. It is situ- ated in the mediaeval tower of S. To- maso, the principal defence of Padua on the W. side. Erected by EcceUno da Romano, it served as the prison in which many of his victims suffered. The Ob- servatory, under the direction of Prof. Santini, is well supplied with instru- ments from London, Munich, and Vienna. The view from the summit i^ very fine over the N.E. Alps, the Lagune of Venice, and the Euganean hills. Padua has many palaces and fine old houses. Palazzo Giustiniani, anciently be- longing to the Comaro family. It is from the designs of Falconetto. Ad- joining it is a rotonda, also erected by Falconetto^ intended for musical entertainments, and built by the direc- tions of the celebrated Luigi Cornaro, the writer on the mode of prolonging life. It is a very beautiful structure. Palazzo Pappafava (now the pro- perty of Count Andrea CittadeUa di Vicodazzere, the descendant of that family) contains a good collection of paintings ; amongst others, some cu- rious frescoes brought from suppressed convents. Also a strange group, in sculptui'c, by Agostino Fasolata^ of Lucifer and his companions cast down from heaven. It consists of 60 figures, carved out of one block of marble. These figures are so twisted together that it is difficult to understand how 368 Route 31. — Padua to Venice, Sect. ly. the artist could have managed his tools. It is 5 feet high. The artist was em- ployed upon it more than 12 years: it is a wonderful specimen of patience. The Pappafava family are descended from a branch of the Carraras before they became Lords of Padua ; but the name being thought dangerous by the jealous republic, they were compelled to exchange it for a sobriquet, borne by one of their ancestors. 'Palazzo Zigno. The geologist will find there a very interesting collection of fossils and rocks, generally of this neighbourhood, formed by its present owner, Cav. Zigno, one of the talented geologists of N. Italy. The House of JEccelino is now con- verted into the Marionette or Puppet Theatre of Santa Lucia. Some Gothic windows are preserved. Theatres. The Teatro JS'uouo is opened during a season styled " Fiera del Santo" (the fair of St. Anthony), which begins in June and ends in August ; the Teatro Nuovissimo, near the cathedral, and the Teatro Diurno are for representations by daylight. The ancient defences of " Padova la Porte " are much dilapidated : a few towers remain, and some gateways by Falconetto, in a good style. Hosjpitals. The principal hospital, called the Spedale Civile^ in the street behind the University, is a very exten- sive building, erected on the site of a suppressed college of the Jesuits in 1798. It can receive 500 patients. 5 of its wards belong to the University, and constitute the Clinical School : they can accommodate 50 medical and 25 surgical cases. Other wards are occupied by Obstetric and Ophthalmic cases. In the chapel of the Hospital is a monu- ment to Bishop Griustiniani, the great benefactor of the charity, by Canova. One division of the Spedale Civile is set apart for lunatics. The Hospital of S, Giovanni di Dio is under the management of the monks of that Order, and can receive a small number of acute medical and surgical cases. The Foundling Hosjpital^ or Istituto degli JEsjposti^ was founded un- der the denomination of the Casit di Dio in 1097. It is consequently the oldest institution of the kind in Europe. The annual admissions average about 400 ; there are upwards of 3000 chil- dren in all on the books, the deaths averaging on the latter number 15 per cent. Flan for visiting in one day the Sights at Fadua^ in toigograj^hical order. Falazzo delta Fagione ; Fal. delta Municipalita ; Pal. del. Consiglio, Library ; Fuomo, Baptistery^ and Pal. Vescovile ; Observatory ; Frato della Valle ; Ch. of Sanf Antonio and Scuola ; Botanic Grarden ; Ch. of Santa Giustina and Chapel of San Giorgio; Ch. of S. Michele ; Tomb of Antenor; University and its collections ; Arena and Sta. Maria delV Arena ; Ch. oi gli Fremitani ; Ch. of /Z Carmine. Excursions can be more easily made from Padua to the different places in the Euganean hills than from any other point. Rly. to Battaglia, where there is a good inn, Hotel di Battaglia^ which is much frequented during the season of baths, July, August, and September. Large bath-house opened in 1865 ; bet- ter accommodation than at Abano Mud-baths. From Battaglia excursions can be easily made to Arqua, the retreat of Petrarch, to the Baths of Abano, &c. &c., which are described Etc. 32 ; and by the geologist amongst the vol- canic formations of the adjoining group. For Rly. to Este, to Bovigo and Fer- rara, see Rte 33. Fadua to Venice. 37 kil.=:23 Eng. m. Trains leave Padua 5 times a day, performing the journey in 1 J hr. The railway crosses a flat uninteresting country. 6 kil. Fonte di Brenta Stat, situated near the Brenta, which the rly. crosses here. The town on the rt. 10 m. Dolo Stat. Between this and the next stat. the Alps of the Friul; Vex, Pro v. Bte, 31. — Venice : Miscellaneous Inforination, 369 and Carinthia are well seen. There are some villas of the Venetian nobility about the to-vYii of Dolo. 4 kil. Marano Stat. The town of Marano, on the banks of the Brenta, with its high steeple, is about 2 miles on the 1. We here cross one of the principal canals, along wliich and from the bridge there is a fine vista. 9 kil. Mestre Stat., with a good buffet, about 2 miles from the La- guna. The railway to Treviso, Cone- gliano, Pordenone, Udine, and Trieste strikes off from this srat. to the 1. We now pass (on the L, and on the \ borders of the sea) the Fort of Mai- gliera, a very strong position, which un- \ derwent a long siege in 1849 : its fall led to the surrender of Venice, since which, as the key to the Queen of the Adriatic on the land side, it has under- gone considerable additions and re- pairs. We here enter on the bridge, which is traversed in about 6 minutes. This great work, which carries the rail- road over the Lagoon, and enters Venice on the island of St. Lucia, is parallel to and a Httle S. of, the channel connecting Venice with Mestre, and passes close to the fort of San Secondo : it occupied 4^ years in erecting, and was com- pleted on the 27th of October, 1845. The length of the bridge is 3936 yds., or 2 m. and 416 yds. It consists of 222 circidar arches, of 32 ft. 9J in. span. The thickness of the single piers is 3i ft. The height of the top of the parapet above the mean level of the water of the Lagoon is 14 ft. The width of the bridge, where it passes over arches, is 29^ ft. In the centre is a large embankment, called Piazza Maggiore, 446 ft. in length, and in width 97 ft. 10 in. The depth of the water through which the bridge is car- ried varies from 13 to 3 ft. The soil of the bottom of the Lagoon, where it is built, is entirely of mud. The founda- tion is upon piles driven into the bed of the Lagoon. The piers from the plat- form on the heads of the piles up to the impost are of limestone, the arches and spandrds of brick, the cornice and parapet of Istrian stone. Close inside the parapet, on a level with the roadway, two channels are formed for carrying freshwater from the mainland to Venice. It may give some idea of the magni- tude of the work to mention that, amongst other materials, 80,000 larch piles were used in the foundations, and in the bridge itself 21 millions of bricks and 176,437 cubic ft. of Istrian stone ; and that, on an average, 1000 men were employed daily. It cost 5,600,000 Austrian lire, = 186,666^. The bridge was much injured during the siege of Venice in 1849, when several of the arches were destroyed, and a battery formed of the Piazza Maggiore. 8 kil. Venice Stat. Although Venice is a free port for everything but salt and tobacco, passengers' luggage is sometimes examined at the station. The search is more rigorous on leaving Venice, and duties charged on very small quantities of tobacco or snuff- articles which ought always be declared to the officers of the Customs. The rly. stat. is at a considerable distance from most of the hotels, but gondolas in abundance will be found on the arrival of each train. The Rly. Company has established a service of omnibus boats : the fare for conveying the traveller to the vicinity of the Piazza di San Marco is 50 cent., and 30 for every article of luggage which the traveller cannot carry in his hand ; but as these omnibus boats are only bound to convey persons to certain stations, they may exact an additional sum for calling at the hotels ; a gondola will be found the most expe- ditious, comfortable, and often as eco- nomical a conveyance, the whole charge not exceeding 2 lire. (See at page 375.) VENICE. Ital., Venezia: French, Venise : Grerm., Venedig. Hotels : Hotel Barhesi, in the Pal. Zuchelli, on the Grand Canal, opposite the ch. of La Salute, in a quiet situa- tion, many of the apartments looking S. 2 minutes' walk from the Piazza R 3 370 Boute 31. — Venice : Miscellaneous Information, Sect. IV. di S. Marco. Arrangements during a prolonged stay may be made advan- tageously for board and lodging at the JT. Barhesi^ which has a garden on the Canal with a southern aspect, a fine view over the Lagunes, and in a good situation : as a winter residence, it is comfortable in every respect : the pro- prietor speaks English : table-d'hote at 4J frs. without wine ; bedrooms, 2 to 5; breakfast, I'SO to 2. Baths in the house. Kotel Danieli^ or Alhergo ^eale^ on the Riva dei Schiavoni. It was formerly the Nani-Mocenigo Palace, and is at a short distance from the ducal palace. Handsomely fitted up and improved ; " noisy, the charges high" {E. W. G.y JDec, 1868) ; " frequented by famihes travelling with couriers." Grood table- d'hote, on the wrong side of the Piazza di San Marco. Hotel and Tension Beaurivage, on the Riva dei Schiavoni, belonging to the same owners as the Hotel Koyal, with a good southern look-out : board and lodging, 8 and 10 frs. a-day, ac- cording to the floor and aspect. In the autumn, mosquitoes are a great pest at Venice, and especially on the Eiva dei Schiavoni. Alhergo delV JEuropa, formerly the Giustiniani Palace, close to the Piazza di San Marco, much improved; in a good situation, with a magnificent view over the Southern Lagunes ; clean and comfortable ; good table- d'h6te. Alhergo d' Italia, at San Moise, on a canal near the Fenice theatre. It has a table-d'hote and is weU recommended, and is in a convenient though confined situation. Pension Suisse, in a good situation near the Piazza di San Marco, upon the Grand Canal, opposite the ch. of La Salute, next to H. Barbesi, and near Piazza S. Marco ; small, but clean and comfortable, charges reasonable ; very obliging landlord {A. H. L., Oct. 1869). Alhergo delta Vittoria, " enlarged and improved, kept by Elzensberger ; comfortable, with moderate charges ;" said to be very good; no view of the Jjagunes, Jffotel de Munich, new and clean, the nearest, on the Grand Canal, to the Piazza di San Marco ; well spoken off ; much frequented by Germans. Alhergo delta Luna, close to the S.W. angle of the Piazza, clean, mode- rate charges. Hotel Bellevue, in the Piazza S. Marco. Alhergo San Marco, in the Piazza San Marco, kept by Padron, with a tolerable restaurant, moderate as to charges. Hotel et Pension New YorTc, in the Pal. Ferro, on the Grand Canal, kept by A» Barbesi ; table d'h6te at 4 frs. Alhergo delta Calcina, in the Zat- tere, well fitted for persons economically disposed. As a general rule, come to an under ^ standing heforehand at all the Venetian hotels as to the charges to he incurred during your stay 1 1 Travellers will do well not to listen to recommendations from agents and touters for hotels at the railway station. Travellers who generally leave Yenice at a very early hour will do well to insist on having their bills at the hotels the evening before, as it has been too much the custom to defer doing so until the moment of stepping into the gondola, when there is no time to check mistakes, overcharges, &c. {Coh Clive, May, 1866). To visit Venice with the greatest comfort and advantage, the best time of the year will be the spring, at which period the climate is delightful, the sky clear and unclouded, and the canals clean after their winter agitation ; at this season there are no mosquitoes, the pest of the place in the autumn, when they are really intolerable, and when the stench from the canals, after the summer heats, is insupportable in some quarters. Thick fogs set in here, as throughout the N. of Italy, in October, which render the climate cold and disagreeable. During the winter the cold is at times intense, from the violent winds descending from the snow-capped Alps of the Tyrol and THE VM^^'i OF \H£ Churches. — 1. S.Marco; 2. SS. Giovanni e Paolo; 3. S. Giorgio Maggiore ; 4. S. Maria dei Fran ; 5. S. Mana della Salute; G. II Eedentore ; 7. S. Salvatore ; 8. S. Zaccaria ; 9. SS. Apostoli ; 10. S. Francesco della Vi^im ; 11. Gesuiti; 12. S.Giovanni Crisostomo ; 13. S. Giorgio de' Greci ; 14. S. Jacopo di Eialto ; lo.^ b. Lucia - 16. Madonna dell' Orto ; 17. S. Maria de' Carmine; 18. S. Maiia Fo:mosa; 19. S. Maria dt Miracoii 20. S Mart no; 21 S Mcolo ; 22. R Pantaleoi.e : 23. S. Pietro di Oastello ; 24. S. Rocco ; 25. Gli SoaW • S" t" f:^^^^!^- ^- L^*^^*,r i,^f ■ ^ ^'">"'ti"i = 29. S. Trovaso ; 30. S. Moise. Pat ACES, &c.-32.Ducal See ' il- ^'^®'??' ""^n "m^ ^Pfl ^- ^^'- ^"•'"''^"i: 36. Post Office; 37. Great Hospital; 38. Teatro della Fenice • 39. T. Apollo : 40. T. Malibran ; 42. Hotel Danidi ; 43 H. de I'Europe ; 46. H. Laited ; 47 Mivseo Correr ' Venet. Pkov. Route 31. — Venice: Miscellaneous Information, 375 Friuli. (See Plan for visiting Venice in topographical order, at p. 429.) Passports. They are no longer asked for at Venice, nor is any signature of the poUce necessary on leaving it. Persons going into the Bavarian terri- tories by the Brenner road may do well to provide themselves with that of the consul of Bavaria at Venice. Restaurants. There are few good at Venice : Cafe G-allo, good dinner for 5 fp. At the Restaurant Franijais, in the Piazza di San Marco, dinner may be had for 3 frs., as well as at the Albergo del Selvatico, No. 1224, near the Piazza di San Marco ; very fair cookery, " the very one for bachelors ; dinners, 2 francs. May, 1864." Cafes. FloriarCs has long enjoyed what may be called an European repu- tation. It is situated in the centre of the Procuratie Nuove, and has been lately fitted up with great elegance. Grahgnani and some French newspapers may be seen there, and breakfasts a-la- fourchette and suppers may be had. Close to Florian's is the Cafe Re dDItalia^ formerly Suttil^ also good. Nearly opposite to Florian's, in the Procuratie Vecchie, are the Cafe de^ Specchiy handsomely fitted up and good, and the Cafe Quadri. Itahan ladies rarely enter the cafes ; they take their refreshment — ice or coffee — outside, especially when the military bands play in the evenings in the Piazza. The arcade outside Florian's is the ren- dezvous of the Venetian beau monde in the warm summer and autumnal evenings. Gondolas. The tariff is as follows within the city limits {Circondario) : For a gondola with one boatman (1 fr.) for the first hour, and 50 cent, for every succeeding one ; for the day of 10 hrs. (5 frs.) ; double these fares with 2 rowers ; beyond the city li- mits, according to agi'eement. To the Trieste steamers a gondola of 2 oars is ohligatory. If, however, a gondola is taken for the day or several hours, an abatement may be effected by pre- vious agreement. It will be a good plan for a traveller, as long as he is occupied in sight-seeing, to hire a gon- dola by the day, which with one man may be had for 3 frs., with a trifling buonamano. The gondolier, being generally well acquainted with the situation of all the objects a traveller wishes to see, will thus save the annoy- ance and expense of a valet de place. From the Railway to the Piazzetta of S. Marco or vice versa, 2 frs. and 15 cent, for ordinary sized packages, 30 cent, for those exceeding 80 centimetres. AD gondoliers are obliged to carry the Police tariff, which they must exhibit if required. Omnibus gondolas from the station 30 cent., with same charges as in the ordinary gondolas for From no class of people is the visitor at Venice more exposed to annoyance than from the gondoliers ; although the fares are strictly determined by the mu- nicipal authorities, they ever grumble, and prefer most exorbitant demands on the stranger. This is particLdarly the case on arriving from the rly. stat., when, not content with making a fabulous charge, they will insist on carrying to his apartments all lug- gage, assuming the office of the ser- vants of the establishment. It is to be regretted that the police authorities show a disinchnation to interfere on such occasions between the gondo- Her and his victims, so influential or so feared are the former. To avoid such annoyances, let the traveller write the day before his arrival to the master of the hotel where he proposes to take up his quarters, to send a gondola to be in waiting at the rly. stat. ; and as each hotel has a commissionnaire there, who will be recognised by the name of the establishment on his cap, all diffi- culties as to porters, boatmen, &c., will be removed. Railways. Three trains leave Venice daily, for Padua, Vicenza, Verona, 2 only continuing to Milan in 7f hrs. 5 trains daily to Padua ; and 2 for Trieste, passing by Treviso, Conegliano, Porde- none, and Udine. 2 additional trains daily as far as the latter place. Steamers toes et Trion Tues., Thurs., and Sat., at midnight ; average passage 376 Route 31. — Venice: Miscellaneous Information, Sect. IV. 6 hrs. in the best boats. Tlie lirs. may vary with the season, but they can be easily ascertained at the office in the Piazzetta di San Marco. Per- sons with return tickets to Trieste must have them changed at the office the day of starting. For CMoggia every morning in summer. Steamers of the Peirano Danovano Company, large, excellent, and well-found boats, arrive at "Venice every Saturday morn- ing from Grenoa, Naples, Brindisi, An- cona, &c., continuing on the following day to Trieste at an early hour, per- forming the return voyage on Wednes- day. A steamer of the Adriatic Orien- tal Company leaves Venice every Satur- day at 2 J p.m., direct for Brindisi, performing the voyage in about 30 hrs., arriving there on the Monday in cor- respondence with that which starts Avith the Indian mail in tlie afternoon of that day. Fares : from Venice to Brindisi 70, 50, and 30 frs., according to the classes ; 310, 225, and 95 frs. to Alexandria. Time employed in voyage: from Venice, 110 hrs. ; from Brindisi to Alexandria, under 80. Post Office. Letters for England are despatched daily at an early hour, via Milan and France ; letters must be posted the night before ; postage for a single letter, via France, 60 centimes. ^ oz. weight, arriving in London on the third day ; and by Vienna and Bel- gium at 6 A.M. ; but letters of ^ oz., or double weight, may be sent by this route, arriving in nearly the same time. Letters arrive daily from England by both routes. Letters to the Italian kingdom and Papal States must be pre- paid, 20 centimes ; to France, Switzer- land, and Grermany, 40 soldi. British Consulate. William Perry, Esq., Consul General, No. 2489, Calle Gritti, near the ch. of Sta. Maria Zo- benigo. Bankers. S. and A. Blumenthal, 672, Freyreria, Casa Aveseri, very obliging ; Schielen Brothers, No. 5525, Campo La Fava. Painters. Mr. Nerly, a Prussian, wliose views of Venice are in great re- quest, resides in the Palazzo Pisani, a S. Stefano. Madame Kartitz is a good copyist of the works of the old masters in the Academy. Sig. Mol- menti is one of the most eminent of the painters of historical subjects and of portraits at the present day in Yenice. Carlo Grrubas, Calle dell' Erbe, No. 6120, paints small views of Yenice, both in oils and body-colour, at a very reasonable rate. The best vieios of Venice \yill be i\\Q photograjphs, to be had at Munster's and other print- sellers in the Piazza San Marco, price 2^ to 5 frs. each, and at Ponti's, 4180, Biva di Schiavoni. As a customs duty of ^ fr. per lb. is charged on all photo- graphs leavmg Yenice, travellers will do better to purchase them not pasted, so that they can be rolled in a very small space ; they can be thus obtained at Nuxas' and the other photographers (J. P. H., Oct., 1867.) Booksellers. Herman Mimster, a very obliging person, who speaks English, Piaz^za San Marco, Nos. 72, 73, is well supplied with foreign and Italian works, maps, handbooks, guide-books, &c. Mr. M. also keeps a circulating Hbrary of French, English, German, and Italian books. IseiDs and Beading Boom. This very useful establishment for travellers has been recently opened at Munster's Library, in the Piazza di San Marco. It contains the principal European, some American, and a very good se- lection of London daily papers, reviews, and periodicals. Subscription : daily, 1 fr. ; weekly, 3 fr. ; monthly, 5 fr. Bhysicians. Dr. Locatelh, Rio Terrao ; Dr. Namias, Pal. Bembo S. Salvatore, near the Hotel de la Yille ; Dr. Minich, consulting physician, Ponte dei Barcaroli ; Dr. Candeo, CaUe San Benedetto, highly spoken of; Dr. Richetti, who speaks EngUsh, No. 5628, SS. Apostoh. Apothecaries. . There is a good apothecary in the Campo San Lucca, No. 3801, in correspondence with Vhrs, Prov. . Jioute 31.' — Venice : Miscellaneous Information, 377 Savory and Moore of London ; and Zampieroni, in the Boeca di Piazza, leading to the ch. of San Mo'ise. Valets de Place. Six lire for tlie first day, and about 5 for each succeeding one, ■will be ample payment. At the churches 50 c. to tlie sacristan will be sufficient. At the Doge's Palace and the Academy somewhat more, but never exceeding 1 lira, except when the party is large. For English goods the best shops are Traimer's, in the Merceria ; he is said to have fixed prices, and to be very re- spectable (he and his son both speak EngUsh) ; and Ploner, behind the Piazza San Marco, in the street leading to S. Mose. Venetian curiosities and objects of art and vertu. Guggenheim, Canal Grande ; Richetti, Palazzo Marcello, Canal Grande j Aretti, near the Ponte di Rialto. Sculptor in bronze. A.Giordani, Corte del Teatro Nuovo S. Cassiano. Venetian glass and Smalt manufac- tures^ Mosaics^ Sfc. — Tiie best shops are in the Piazza di San Marco. Dr. Sal- viati is the most celebrated manufac- turer of smalt or opaque glass orna- ments, mosaics, &c. ; nothing can exceed the works in the latter, which were exhibited in London in 1862 : he is the person charged with the mosaics in the basihca of St. Mark's, botli as regards repairs and restoration, and with the beautiful mosaic decorations in the memorial chapel at Windsor Castle; he is, perhaps, the leading artist in this kind of work ; his esta- blishment is in the Campo di San Vito, on the Grand Canal, not far from the ch. of La Salute. He has a shop also under the Procuratia Yecchie, on the Piazza di San Marco ; his foundry is at Murano. Travellers, in making purchases of Ve- netian fabrics, will do well not to listen to the recommendations of valets de place, couriers, servants at hotels, &c. ; as they all levy black mail in the shape of, at times, a fabulous commission from the seller. For glass-Avork in par- ticular, Salviati's will be the best shop. Protestant Divine Service. The ser- vice of the Church of England every Sunday, at 11^, in a room in the Pa- lazzo Contarini delle Scrigni, on the Grand Canal, near the iron bridge ; the Rev. Mr. Meryweather is the resident clergyman ; in German, at 12^, in the Scuola del Angelo Custode, Campo SS. Apostoli. "The celebrated name of Venice, or Venetia, was formerly diffused over a large and fertile province of Italy, from the confines of Pannonia to the river Addua, and from the Po to the Rhetian and Julian Alps." Venetia was divided into Prima and Secunda^ of which the first applied to the mainland, and the second to the islands and lagunes. In the first, *' before the irruption of the Barbarians, 50 Venetian cities flou- rished in peace and prosperity : Aquileia was placed in the most conspicuous station : but the ancient dignity of Padua was supported by agriculture and manufactures." — Gibbon. Venetia Secunda, placed in the midst of canals at the mouth of several rivers, was occupied in fisheries, salt-works, and commerce. Venice owes its existence as a city to the fugitives who, on the invasion of Italy by Attila, sought safety, after the fall of Aquileia, from the sword of the Hmis, among the neighbouring islands. "At the extremity of the Gulf, where the Hadriatic feebly imitates the tides of the ocean, near a hundred small islands are separated by shallow water from the continent, and protected from the waves by several long slips of land, whicli admit the entrance of vessels through some secret and narrow chan- nels." — Gibbon. This natural break- water, or aggere^ as it is termed, extend- ing nearly 80 miles from the mouth of the Piave to Brondolo, has been formed by the deposit brought down by the rivers for ages, and not arrested till it meets the sea, where it has raised itself into impregnable ramparts (Littorali) against the inroads of the waves. Between the Piave and the Adige 6 channels admit ^ passage from the Adri^^ 378 Route 31. — Venice : Lagoons; Bridges, Sect. IV. atic into the Lagune. Of these the most northern is the Porto di tre Porti, navi- gable only by the very smallest craft. The island of San Erasmo intervenes between this and the second opening, bearing the name of the saint just men- tioned. The Porto di San Nicolo del Lido, a third channel, was formerly the most important, and might be called especially the Port of Yenice : it is still much frequented by smaller vessels and the steamers from Trieste. South of this is the island of Lido, and the long sandy Littorale of Malamocco, extending for nearly 2 leagues, form an outwork in front of the city, and are separated from the Littorale of Pe- lestrina by the Porto di Malamocco, at present the deepest channel into the Lagunes. At the southern extremity of Pelestrina opens the Porto di Chioggia, taking its name from the town to which it leads, between which and the Porto di Brondolo, where the Brenta enters the sea, is the irregular island or Littorale of Sotto Marina ; inside of this band is an extensive area of water of inconsiderable depth, navi- gable only for vessels of very slight draught, except where channels have been formed naturally by rivers which empty themselves into it, maintained by artificial means. In this expanse (the Laguna or Lagoon) are several small islands, the largest of which, called Jsola de Rialto (which is abbreviated from Rivo alto — the deep stream), had long served as a port to Padua, and a few buildings for naval purposes had been constructed upon it. The fall of Aquileia, and the self- banishment of the neighbom*ing inhabitants of Con- cordia — Opitergium, now Oderzo — Altinum, Altino — and of Patavium, JPadua — occurred in the year 452 of our era : but as early as 421 a church dedicated to St. James had been erected on the island of Rialto, and a decree had issued from Padua for forming a town on it, and collecting there the stragglmg inhabitants of the neighbour- ing island, under the government of annual magistrates with the title of con- i suls. Sabellico has preserved a tra- dition that the earliest buildings of this tovra were raised on the very spot now occupied by the cathedral of St Mark, and that the first foundations were laid on the 25th March. Venice is bmlt upon 72 islands or shoals, the foundations for the build- ings being formed with piles and stone. It is divided into two unequal portions by the Canalazzo, or grand canal, whose course through the city is in the form of an S, and is intersected in all direc- tions by 146 smaller canals, crossed by 306 bridges. These bridges are fre- quent, and, being steep, are cut into easy steps. Three bridges only cross the G-rand Canal : that of the Rialto, in stone, is the most celebrated ; the other two in iron — one between the Campo di S. Stefano and the Accademia delle Belle Arti, and the other opposite to the Railway Station. The smaller bridges are so numerous, and so well placed, that there is no part of the city — that is to say, no house — which cannot be reached on foot ; but many of the finest buildings, as on the Canal G-rande, can only be seen from the water, out of which they rise. A gondola wiU be therefore aU but indis- pensable to the stranger. " The small canals, or rii^ as they are termed, which are bestrid by these bridges, are the water- streets of Yenice; but there is no part of either of the two divisions to which you may not also go by land, through narrow passages called calli. There are, besides, several small squares, entitled campi. "The most considerable houses of Yenice have each a door opening in- land, and another towards the canal ; but many, being built in the interior of these shoals, can have no immediate access by water. This is a considerable inconvenience, as it Umits the use and comfort of a gondola. " There is sometimes a wharf or a footway along the banks of the rii (called a riva), and usually secured by a parapet, bored for a wicket ; but the rii oftener extend from house to house, and these then consequently rise on either side from out of the water. The Ven. Prov, Houte si* — Venice: Canals; Dialect; Trade, 379 same may be said of tlie Grand Canal as of the Wi, though here and tliere is a small extent of terrace or r/ya, in front of the houses." — Letters from the North of Italy. The larger and wider Eive are called Fondamenti. As a general description of Venice, tliat of Rogers is pleasing, and was correct, but the railroad has superseded the passage from the mainland in a gondola, and, though it may jar with the prejudices of some, presents a scene not less singular. " There is a glorious city in the sea. The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets, Ebbing and flowing ; and the salt sea-weed Clings to the marble of her palaces. No track of men, no footsteps to and fro. Lead to her gates. The path lies o'er the sea. Invincible ; and from the land we went, As to a floating city — steering in, And gliding up her streets, as in a dream, So smoothly, silently — by many a dome. Mosque-like, and many a stately portico, The statues ranged along an azure sky ; By many a pile, in more than eastern pride. Of old the residence of merchant-kings ; The fronts of some, tho' Time had shatter'd them, Still glowing with the richest hues of art, As though the wealth within them had run o'er." The Venetians have laid aside the pecuharities of dress which marked their nationahty in their days of inde- pendence. The national dresses, the red Taharro of the men and the black Zeiidale of the women, so often men- tioned in Groldoni's plays, have entirely disappeared. The gondolas still retain unchanged their black funereal appear- ance. Conjurors, storytellers and Punch, may be often seen on the Riva dei Scliiavoni. *'The Venetian dialect, or rather language, was formerly so much che- rished as a token of nationahty, that the speakers in the Senate were com- pelled to employ it to the exclusion of the Tuscan or Volgare. It possesses great softness and pleasantness of sound, and bears somewhat the same relation to the Volgare that the Portuguese does to the Castihan ; the consonants are elided, and the whole softened down: as in Padre^ Pare; Madre^ Mare ; Figlio, Fio ; Casa, Ca ; and some have regretted that it did not prevail instead of its more fortunate sister. It is softer and more winning than the Tuscan, though it falls far beneath it in dignity and force. The judgment, however, of a foreigner is of little weight. It has had better testi- monies borne to its merits by Bettinelli, and a host of Italian writers who may natm-ally be supposed to have had a nicer and more discriminating sense of its perfections. In all the lighter and gayer walks of poetry it is dehghtful ; and the Venetian verse is, compared with the verse of other nations, very much what Venetian painting is as to that of the rest of Europe." — Bose's Letters. The manufactures of Venice are the glass-works, in which are produced magnificent mirrors, artificial pearls, gems, coloured beads, &c., employing about 4500 people ; the women and children are employed in the various manufactures — beads, jeweUery, gold and silver chains, gold and silver stuffs, silks, laces, and velvets ; soap, earthenware, wax and spermaceti candles, sugar refineries, &c. Printing is extensively carried on. Ship and boat building to a considerable extent at Venice and Chioggia. The inhabitants are not, however, fully employed ashore, and a great number depend on fishing and on navigating the vessels belonging to the port. The latter, exclusive of fishing-boats, amount to about 30,000 tons of shipping, employed chiefly in the coasting trade. The entrances to the port of Venice are intricate ; the best ship entrance is by the Pass of Malamocco, by which vessels drawing from 18 to 20 ft. can enter easily since the prolongation of its two moles, outside of which, in the Gulf, there is good holding ground. It is absolutely necessary to have a pilot to enter. Although not actually on the decline, its trade has suffered gi^eatly from the increasing prosperity of Trieste, which has met more favoiu* and encouragement from 380 Boute 31— Fmce ; Port ; Piazza di San Marco. Sect. IV. the Austrian government than the Queen of the Adriatic. The raiboad from Milan, and the re- establishment of the freedom of its port, will pro- bably increase the trade, but not so far as to raise its commerce and navigation to that of a place of first-rate im- portance. The direct trade between England and Venice consists in some cargoes of fish, in large quantities of coal and iron, and a few of manu- factured goods, although a great pro- portion of the latter are transhipped from Trieste. Venice is a free port, and most of the articles for the use of the citizens are admitted duty free. There are, however, small dues levied to raise funds to defray the municipal expenses. Goods of various descriptions are ex- ported from Venice. There is also a considerable trade carried on between Venice and Dalmatia, Albania,and parts of Grreece. The Dockyard, formerly the celebrated arsenal of the Republic, had much fallen off in importance since the establishment by the Austrian Grovern- ment of its naval stations at Trieste, and especially at Pola, on the coast of Istria. "Within a few years very extensive moles have been formed, with stoiie brought from Istria, near the Mala- mocco Pass, in order that by narrowing the waterway at ebb-tide the scour of the water flowing through might deepen the channel. The plan has been at- tended with great success. Vessels drawing 20 ft. now enter by this pas- sage without difficulty, and without waiting for spring-tides. There is a regular tide of the Lagoon, the rise and fall at Venice being between 2 and 3 ft., so that at low water the Lagoon in some directions appears a vast expanse of mud. This is particularly observable on looking westward from the neigh- bourhood of the bridge which crosses the canal leading to the Arsenal, or from the top of the tower of S. Marco. It is highly probable that the ori- ginal depth of the Adriatic was greater t'h^n now, At present its greatest be- tween the coast of Dalmatia and the mouths of the Po is 22 fathoms, and a large part of the Gulf of Trieste, and the Adriatic opposite Venice, is less than 12 fathoms deep. This decrease is caused by the deposits brought down by the numerous large rivers which, charged with alluvial matter from the Alps, empty themselves into the N, extremity of the gulf. The centre of business and amuse- ment at Venice, and the spot which a traveller usually first visits and most often returns to, is the Piazza di S. Marco, With this it will be therefore better to commence our description of the city. We will suppose the traveller stand- ing in front of the church, and looking towards it. On the E. side stands the basilica of St. Mark. On the N. or l.-hand side is the long line of buildings called the Frocuratie Vecchie and the Torre delV Orologio. On the S. side, and opposite, are the Procuratie Nuove and the Lihreria Vecchia, Towards the W. the Piazza formerly extended only as far as a mark in red marble let into the pavement, near the 16th arch of the Procuratie I^uove, counting from the angle be- hind the campanile. This red mark indicates the position of a canal, on the bank of which formerly stood the Church of St. Geminiano. In the 12th centy. the canal was filled up, and during the 17th the ch. pulled down to afford space for enlarging the Royal palace and the Piazza. The length of this Piazza is 576 ft. ; its greatest width, i. e. from the comer close to the campanile to the opposite side, 269 ft. ; its lesser, which is at the W. end, 185 ft. At right angles with the Piazza, at its eastern end, is the Piazzetta^ ex- tending from near the base of the campanile to the Molo or quay formed along the edge of the canal. On the W. side of the Piazzetta stands the Lihreria Vecchia, and on the E. the Ducal palace j ^nd on the Molo, nea^ Ve^t. Prov. Route 31. — VeniQe : Cathedral of Saa Marco. 381 the southern end of the Piazzetta, the two famous granite cohmms, one sur- mounted by the bronze Lion of St. Mark, the other b>' the statue of St. Theodore, the Protector of the RepubKc. A large flock of pigeons will always be seen frequenting the Piazza and tlie neighbouring buildmgs. They have existed here so long that their origin is forgotten ; various explanations have been oifered, too long and too un- satisfactory to insert, accounting for their existence, and for their having been fed at the expense of the Grovern- ment. They are protected by the almost superstitious care and affection of the Yenetian people; they are fed at two o'clock, the outlay being defrayed by a bequest from a noble lady ; and it is a curious sight to see them arrive from every side on the striking of that hour by the great clock of the Torre dell' Orologio. San Marco. This church did not become the cathedral until the year 1807, when the patriarchal seat was removed to it from San Pietro di Castello. Until then it was the chapel attached to the Ducal Palace, founded in the year 828, by the Doge Gius- tiniani Partecipiazio, for the purpose of receiving the relics of St. Mark, which had been translated, or rather, in plain English, stolen from Alex- andria, by Bono^ the " Tribune " of Malamocco, and Rustico of Torcello. These remains were deposited in the Chapel of St. Theodore: but the popular veneration was transferred, apparently without hesitation, from St. Theodore to the EvangeUst, whose sym- bol became the emblem, and almost the palladium, of the repubhc ; and the too humble Church of Narses was de- molished to make room for the more splendid edifice of the newly chosen protector. Giustiniani died, leaving the church unfinished ; but it was com- pleted by his successors, and stood until destroyed in the conflagration which terminated the life and reign of Pietro Candiano lY. in 976. Pietro Orseolo I., the successor of Candiano, was the founder of the pre- sent edifice. The foundations were laid in 977 ; but nearly one hundred years elapsed before the walls were com- pleted, under the reign of Domenico Contarini, 1043. Many precious adorn- ments, and in particular the mosaics, were added by the Doge Domenico Salvo, 1071 ; and it was not conse- crated till the time of Ordelafo Falier, on the 4th October, 1111. Although it has been disputed to which of the several eras of construc- tion the present Basilica is to be ascribed, and whether or not it is to be considered as a specimen of Byzantine art, it may be without much doubt said that the original design has un- dergone Uttle alteration, and that it was due to Greek architects, or to artists who had studied in the school of Constantinople and the East. " The plan of St. Mark's, like that of Santa Sophia, is a Greek cross, with the addition of spacious porticos. The centre of the building is covered with a dome, and over the centre of each of the arms of the cross rises a smaller cupola. All the remaining parts of the building are covered with vaults, in constructing which the Greeks had be- come expert, and which are much to be preferred to the wooden roofs of the old Basilicas. " Colonnades and round arches sepa- rate the nave from the aisles in each of the four compartments, and support galleries above. The capitals of the pillars are of exquisite foliage, in some cases, as though blown about by the wind, and are free from the imageiy which at that time abounded in other churches of Italy. It is computed that in the decoration of this building, with- out and within, above 500 pillars are employed. The pillars are all of marble, and were chiefly brought from Greece, and other parts of the Levant. Whilst St. Mark's was building, every vessel that cleared out of Yenice for the East was obliged to bring bpak pillars and marbles for the work in which the republic took so general an interests 382 ]Route Z\. "^ Venice t Cathech'al of San Marco. Sect. IV. "The defect of the interior of St. Mark's is, that it is not sufficiently Hght. The windows are few in proportion to the size of the building. Rich, there- fore, as the interior is, it is gloomy to a fault, in spite of the brilliant rays of a southern sun." — Gall^ Knight. In the fa9ade are two rows of co- lumns of vert-antique, porphyry, ser- pentine, and other marbles, some with Armenian and Syriac inscriptions deeply engraven, and showing by then' variety of style and dimensions that they were brought from older build- ings. Several tablets of ancient sculp- ture are inserted in the outer waUs. They are of various ages and nations. One on the N. side, in the small square of the lions, represents Proserpine, or Ceres, holding a torch in either hand, and in a chariot drawn by two dragons, and of which a duplicate will be found at San Donino, near Parma. Cicogna'ra judged it to be of Persian origin. In the opposite corner, towards the Ducal palace, is inserted a remarkable group of four full-length figures, in red por- phyry, striking from their peculiar colour, and from their position. It is probably of the 10th or 11th centy. ; but the absence of any inscription, as well as of all knowledge of its origin, forbids further conjectures ; tlie tradi- tion is that it had been brought from Acre, and ornamented the pedestal of an equestrian statue. Five large mosaics fill the recesses over the door- ways. Beginning on the rt. of the spectator, the subject of the first and second is the removal of the body of St. Mark from the tomb at Alex- andria, executed in 1650, from the de- signs of JPietro VeccJiio : of the next, the Last Judgment, executed by Liborio Salandri : the following recess contains the Yenetian Magistrates venerating the body of St. Mark, designed by Sehn. Rizzi^ in 1728 : the last recess contains the most ancient of these mo- saics, a work probably of the 14th cent., representing the church of St. Mark. Pour mosaics occupy the semicircular gables above, beginning with that wliich is above the one last mentioned in the lower row : they represent the Taking down from the Cross, the Descent into Hades, the Resurrection, and the Ascension, by Luigi Gaetano, 1617, from the drawings of Maffeo Verona. The archivolts of the centre doorway, and of the portal which encircles it, are embossed with Prophets and Evan- gehsts, allegorical representations of the months of the year, trades and labours ; to which, within and without, must be added several of those mystical figures which have been so often de- scribed, of lions and other animals de- vouring or prostrating human victims. The celebrated bronze horses^ formerly gilt, stand over the central portal of the vestibule, in a situation which renders it difficult to see them well either from below or from the level on which they are placed. They were brought from the Hippodrome at Constanti- nople in 1204 by Marino Zeno^ being part of the share of the Ve- netians in the plunder when that city was taken by the Crusaders in the fourth crusade. They were removed to Paris for a short time, but brought back in 1815. Antiquaries hesitate concerning the date and even the coun- try of these horses ; for by some they have been assigned to the Roman period^ and to the age of Nero ; by others to the Grreeks of Chios, and to the school of Lysippus. According to the mxost generally received opinion, that of Cicognara, Augustus brought them from Alexandria, after his vic- tory over M. Antony, and erected them on a triumphal arch at Rome i ' they were successively removed by Nero, Domitian, Trajan, and Con- stantine, to arches of their own ; and in each of these positions it is believed that they were attached to a chariot. Constantine in the end transferred them to his new capital. — A recent G-reek writer, Mutoxidi, has endeavoured to prove that they were cast at Chios, and supposes they were removed to the Hippodrome at Con- stantinople by Theodosius. They are not in the highest style of art, and Cicognara says that the casting of Ven. Piiov. Route 31. — Venice : Cathedral of San Marco* 383 them was so ill managed that t^e artist was compelled to finish them up by many solderings ; the weight of each horse is 1932 lbs. The five outer doors of the vesti- bide are of bronze : on that next to the central one, on the 1. hand, is an m- scription, showing that it was exe- cuted in the year 1300, by JBertucciOy a A\metian goldsmith. Upon entering the vestibule, which extends along the whole front ; by the central portal, there is seen in the pave- ment a lozenge of white and red marble, marking the spot where Pope Alex- ander III. and the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa were, on the 23rd July, 1177, reconciled, through the inter- vention of the Venetian repubhc. The Pope, it is said, but on very doubt- ful authority, placed his foot upon the head of the prostrate Emperor, repeating the words of the Psalm, " Thou shalt tread upon the lion and the adder." This is the story of the Church- writers ; but the reconciliation of the Emperor is described by the cotemporary Archbishop of Salerno as of a much less humiliating character for the imperial penitent. The vaidting of the vestibule is covered with mosaics, and around the walls are numerous columns of pre- cious marbles, brought from the East. Among the mosaics may be noticed St. Mark, in pontifical robes, over the centre door of the church. It was executed in 1545 by Francesco and Yalerio Zuccato, from the designs of Titian. Opposite to this is the Cru- cifixion, by the brothers Zuccati, in 1549. The Kesurrection of Lazarus, the Annunciation, the Four Evange- lists, the Eiglit Prophets, the Angels and Doctors in the frieze, are also by the Zuccati. Out of this vestibule opens, on the rt. hand, the Zeno Chapel^ in which is the splendid tomb of Car- dinal Zeno, cast in 1505-15, from the designs of Antonio Lomhardo and Ales- sandro Leopardi. The sculptures on the altar are very elaborate, especially the Virgin and the Baptist. Of the three doors which open from the vestibidc into the cluu'ch, the centre one, and that on the 1. ot it, are Ve- netian works executed between 1100 and 1112. That on the rt. is said to be of Byzantine workmanship, and to have been carried off* from S. Sofia at Constantinople in 1203. The larger or central one is in the same style^ having 48 compartments, with inlaid figures in silver. The 8 marble co- lumns on each side of this entrance were brought from Constantinople in 1205. In the N. corridor is the monu- ment of Doge Marino Morosmi (ob. 1256), in an early Christian sarco- phagus, with a more ancient bas-relief of Christ between the 12 Apostles. The sepulchral urn at the JS". end of the vestibule contains the remains of Doge B. Gradenigo, who died in 1342 ; that on rt. of the entrance, with shapeless octagonal columns, of Doge Vitahano Falier. The interior of the Basilica is very rich : the walls and columns are of precious marbles, the vaidting is covered with mosaics upon a gold ground, and the pavement of tes- sellated marble. This marqueterie in marble, called vermiculato, is not only remarkable for the beauty and richness of the patterns, but for the symbols and allegories supposed to be contained in the various devices* The following are given as instances : — The round, well-fed, sleek Lion on the sea, and the lean, meagre Lion on the land, denoted what would be the fate of Ve- nice if she deserted the profits of her maritime commerce for the vainglories of territorial conquest. Two cocks car- rying off* a fox indicate the conquest and capture of the crafty Ludovico Sforza by tlie two GraDic monarchs Charles VII. and Louis XII. It would far exceed the hmits of this work to enter into a detail of the mosaics in San Marco : we shall only therefore notice a few of the most remarkable. Over the central door is a mosaic of the 11th century, the Virgin and St. Mark. Entering by this door, on the rt. hand is a porphyry basin for holy water; the base supporting which is an ancient 384: Route 3 1 »— Venice : Cathedral of San Marco, Sect. lY . Greek altar, with bas-reliefs of dolphins, children, &c. Further on the rt. is the Baptistery^ adorned with marbles, bas- relief and mosaics, all executed about the 14th centy. In the middle is a basin, with a bronze cover adorned with low reliefs by Tiziano Minio and Desiderio da Firenze, pupils of Sansovino,in 1545 ; on the top is a statue in bronze of St. John the Baptist, by Francesco Se- gala, in 1565. Behind the altar are reliefs of the 14th centy., representing the Baptism in the Jordan, St. Greorge, and St. Theodore. The altar-table, behind the modern altar, is formed of a massive granite slab brought from Tyre in 1126, and upon which our Saviour is said to have stood when he preached to the inhabitants of that city. Against the wall is the monument of Doge Andrea Dandolo, who died in 1354. He was the last doge who was bin*ied in St. Mark's, the senate having decreed that none should in future be interred here. Dandolo, the fourth doge of his name, was the friend of Petrarch, the first historian of Venice, and de- scended from the celebrated bhnd hero of the crusades, who, elected doge in 1192, at the age of 45, commanded at the siege of Constantinople in his 97th year. The other tomb, in a Gothic style, is of Doge Soranzo (ob. 1328). The mosaics of the Crucifixion, over the altar, and representing several modes of baptism by the 12 apostles, on the cupola over the font, are curious as works of art, and in excellent preservation. Returning into the church : near a pilaster of the N. aisle is the chapel of the Holy Cross, a small octagonal tri- bune supported by six columns ; the one nearest the altar on the right is of a very rare variety of black and white Syenite. In the N. transept is the Chapel of the Madonna de' Mascoli, of which the marble altar, as well as the statues of the Madonna, of St. Mark, and St. John are works of the 15th centy. ; the angels in front are of a later date. The mosaics in this chapel are by Michele Giambono, in 1430; they represent the history of the "Virgin. This artist was one of the first who allandoned the stiff and dry manner of his predecessors in this branch of art. On the wall above the entrance to the chapel of St. Isidore (founded in 1550 to receive the body of the saint, brought from the island of Schio), and to the rt. of that of the Madonna de' Mascoli, is a curious mosaic of the middle of the 16th centy., representing the genealogical tree of the Virgin. The chou' and its divisions rise in triple ascent. It is parted from the nave by a rich screen, after the Greek fashion, surmounted by fourteen statues executed by Jacohello and Pietro Paolo dalle Massegne (1393), pupils of the Pisan school : the cross over the centre, with the statue of Christ in silver, is by Marco Benato (1594). The pres- bytery contains the high altar, standing under a Baldacchino, supported by four columns, covered with bands of sculp- ture and Latin inscriptions, and sup- posed to be of the 11th century. These bands, nine upon each column, contain the principal events and traditions of the Gospel history, from the Marriage of St. Anna to the Ascension. At the sides of the high altar are eight bronze statues — the four Evangelists by San- sovino, and the four Doctors of the Church by G. Cagliari. Behind the high altar are 2 Pale or altar fronts. The innermost is not seen unless re- quest is made for that purpose; an exact copy of it may be seen at all times behind the high altar. The outer " Pala," in fourteen compart- ments, by Messer Paolo and his sons, in 1344, is very interesting, as one of the well- determined (as to date) specimens of Venetian art, although it has been almost ruined by suc- cessive restorations. It is more Greek and stiff than contemporary works at Florence. This covers the Pala d^ OrOy or Icone Bisantina, one of the most remarkable specimens now existing of Byzantine art, made in 976 at Con- stantinople by order of Doge Pietro Orseolo ; but repaired under the Doges Ordelafo Falier 1105, Pietro Zani 1209, and Andrea Dandolo 1345. By Vm. Pro v. Boute 31.- — Venice: Cathedral of San, Marco. 385 all these processes it has gained in splendour, but it 1ms lost in ori- ginahty. It exhibits a mixtiu'C of Byzantine and Gotliic styles. Some of the inscrij^tions are in Greek, some in Latin. The material is silver gilt, en- circled -svitli coarse gems and enamels. The letters are in niello. The represen- tations of sacred personages and sub- jects are o f the usual description : some are from the legendary life of St. Mark. The most curious are of the Doge Fa- Her and the Empress Irene. This Paia is now arranged in 2 horizontal rows of 83 panels. Taken as a whole, it is inferior in workmanship to the gold- smith's work and enamel of Lombardy, France, and Germany, at any of the periods to which it belongs. It has lately been thorouglily cleaned and put in order. Behind the high altar is another, called the Altar of the Holy Sacrament, with bas-rehefs, some of which (Jesus Christ and the Angels) are by Sansovino. It stands, Uke the great altar, mider a canopy, supported by four fluted spiral pillars, said to have been brought from the Temple at Jerusalem. Two are of oriental alabaster. By the side of this altar is the en- trance to the sacristy, closed by the bronze door, upon which Sansovino is said to have exercised his talents during twenty years. The subjects of the bas- rehefs are the Deposition and Resur- rection of our Lord, In the border are introduced 6 small heads and some full-length figures of the prophets and evangelists, starting forward with ex- ceeding Hfe and vivacity. Three of these heads are portraits — of Sansovino himself, of Titian, and of the notorious Pietro Aretino. The expense was de- frayed by Federigo Contarini, one of the procurators of St. Mark. Sanso- vino has authenticated the work by en- graving his name on it. The Sacristy is a noble apartment, and was probably used also as the chapterhouse for the canons of the Basilica. The coved roof is richly covered with mosaics. The best are St. George and St. Theodore, by the Ztic- cati after Tintoretto. The presses and N, Italy— lS6d. seats are ornamented with intarsia work. Those by Fra Sehasiiano, Schi- avone^ and Ferrando da Bergamo are considered as amongst the best of this species of art. Crypt. — Opening out of the Sacristy a stairs leads into a back court, and thence into the Crypt, only recently cleaned out, one of the very interesting parts of the edifice ; it is lighted up and open to the public from 12 to 2, and consists of almost a repetition of the choir above. In the centre is a massive altar, with four stumpy columns, and sm'rounded by a strong stone grating, in the centre of which probably rested the relics of the Apostle, now beneath the high altar. This altar is surrounded by a choir or presbytery, on the outer side of which are sculptured crosses, in low rehef, the whole very like that of S. Clemente at Rome, removed to the Upper Church there. This choir occupies the middle of the nave of the crypt, which is oblong, for the crypt consists of a long nave and two aisles, the fii'st 30 yards long, by 14 wide, the aisles 12 by 6, all rounded towards the eastern extremity ; both crypt and aisles are surrounded by seats, with doors leading to the chapel above. The crypt is low, surmounted by rounded, stunted arches, which are supported by columns, many with basket-head capitals and Greek crosses, as we see on some of those of the ancient Basilica of S. Stephano, on the Via Latina, near Rome. There is no reason to doubt that the crypt, as we now see it, was that founded by Pietro Orseolo in the 10th centy., although the general plan, and some of the materials, may date from the original edifice of Doge Participiazio in the early part of the 9th. The outer side of the apse, and its pointed arches, may be well seen from tlie Com^t- yard, by which this remarkable crypt is now entered. The crypt had been abandoned for more than three centuries, — when the relics of St. Mark were removed to the upper church, — and filled with water ; it was only recently cleaned out and 386 Boute 13.-^ — Venice: Clock Tower ; Merceria, Sect. IV. these percolations from tlie sea pre- vented. In the S. transept a door opens into the Treasury of St. Marie, situ- ated between the transept and the Baptistery, and which is carefully kept under lock and key, and can only be seen on Monday and Friday, from 12*30 until 2 o'clock, except by special permission. It is divided into two departments, one containing sacred rehquiaries, the other objects of art. This treasury became at various times very opulent, and formed a sort of reserve fund on which the state drew in great emergencies. In 1797 most of the available articles were turned into money, and the valuable objects of art which remain were deposited at the Zecca or Mint : they have been of late years arranged here, and offer the richest collection in existence of an- cient Byzantine jewellery. The col- lection of rehcs is extensive, and some of the objects are rare, as a bit of the dress of our Saviour, a small quantity of earth imbibed with his blood, a fragment of the pillar to which he was bound : there is a portion of the genuine cross, of course. The rehquiary in which the latter is enclosed is a fine specimen of workmanship, presented in 1120 to Santa Sophia at Constantinople by the Empress Irene, wife of Alexis Comnenus. The episcopal seat in mar- ble in the treasury was at one time supposed to have been given in the 7th centy. to the Patriarch of Grado by Herachus Emperor of the East, but there is little doubt that it is of a later period, probably of the 11th. The Champleve enamels are amongst the very interesting objects in the Treasury. In front of St. Mark are the 3 bronze pedestals, siu'mounted by winged lions, in which are inserted the masts from which once proudly floated the three gonfalons of silk and gold, emble- matical of the three dominions of the republic — Yenice, Cyprus, and the Morea. These gonfalons, after having given way to the tricolor, are now re- placed by the Austrian standards on feast-davs. Of the beautiful bronze pedestals, in wliich the masts are in- serted, with rehefs of sea-nymphs and Tritons elaborately finished, one was placed there by Paolo Barbo, a Procu- rator of St. Mark, in 1501 ; the others by Doge Loredano, 1505 : all the work of Alessand/ro Leopardi. To the rt. on coming out of St. Mark is the Torre delV Orologio, so called from the dial in the centre, resplendent with gold and azure, the sun on the hands traveUing round the zodiacal signs which decorate it, and marking the time of twice twelve hours. Above are two figures of bronze, called by the people Moors, who strike the hours upon the bell, Hke those on old St. Dunstan's ch. in London. In a writer of the last century there is a story of one of these bronze men having com- mitted murder, by knocking an unfortu- nate workman, who stood within the swing of his hammer, off the parapet. The Yirgin of gilt bronze, and, above, a gigantic lion of St. Mark, upon an azure and stellated ground, decorate the two upper stories. Fietro Lorn- bar do was the architect of the tower, 1494. The clock, as appears by an inscription beneath, was made by Gio- nan) Paolo Rinaldi of Reggio, and Gian Carlo, his son. Having been injured by hghtning in 1750, it was restored by Ferracina of Bassano, in 1755. The wings on each side of the tower, which are of the architecture of the school of Pietro Lombardo, were added at the beginning of the 16th century. Beneath the clock-tower is the en- trance to the Merceria, the part of "Venice which exhibits most commercial activity. Here are the principal shops j and the best retail trade carried on in the city is nearly all concentrated in this quarter. The streets about the Merceria, and through which you may thread your way to the other mainland of the Rialto, are very intricate, nar- row, and much crowded. Beyond the tower, the Procuratie Vecchie, standing upon 50 arches, forms nearly the entire N. side of the piazza of St. Mark. This fabric was raised hy Bartolommeo Buono and Guglielmo da Bergamo, in 1517, Ven. Prov. Route 31. — Venice: Procuratie; Pal, Impenale. 387 and was intended for the habitation of the procurators of St. Mark, who were amongst the most important digni- taries of the repiibHc, niae in number originally. They were the churchwar- dens or trustees of San Marco, having the care of the fabric, and the manage- ment of its property ; Bartolommeo Tiepolo, elected in 1049, being the first upon record. With the increase of the riches of San Marco, their numbers were augmented, till at length they increased to about 34, and the enlargement of the board, or tribmial, was accom- panied by a great extension of their powers. Amongst other duties, they constituted a court of orphans, being their official guardians and trustees. The procuratori were in such high re- pute for their iategrity and good ma- nagement, that it was a common practice for parents in other states of Italy to appoint them executors of their wills. And, generally speaking, the doge was elected from this body. The office was held for Hfe, and, as the repubHc de- cUned, a certain number of the places were sold as a means of filling the coffers of the state . Tliis practice began diu-ing the disastrous war of Candia. They had two prices : the old nobihty paid 30,000 ducats (60001.) for their gown, .the new 100,000 (20,000^:.). For the accommodation of the increasing num- bers the Procuratie Nuove were erected. Tliis building is in the lower stories a continuation of the Bihlioteca : Sca^ mozzi, to whom it was intrusted, adopt- ing for the most part the design of San- sovino, added a third story. " For this upper order of the Procuratie Nuove Scamozzi has often been unjustly re- proached, because he did not confine liimself to two stories, so as to complete tlie design of Sansoviao. The design of Scamozzi, had it been continued in the Piazza San Marco, woidd have placed in the background every other square in Europe. The two lower stories of the Procuratie Nuove are similar in design to the Libreria : and it is greatly to be regretted that Scamozzi was so much otherwise occu- pied, that he had not the opportu- nity of watcliing the whole of its exe- cution, wliich would have extended to 30 arcades, whose whole length would have been 426 ft. Scamozzi only su- perintended the first 13 ; the 3 built by Sansovino excepted, the rest were trusted to the care of builders rather than artists, and, from the Httle atten- tion bestowed upon preserving the profiles, exliibit a negligence which in- dicates a dechne in the arts at Yenice." — Gwilf. The sculptures here are elegant, particularly the foHaged frieze of the Ionic story, interspersed with sea-gods and nymphs. These Procuratie Nuove were con- verted into a palace by the Yiceroy Eugene Beauharnois, and now consti- tute a portion of the Palazzo Reale (per- mission to visit to be procured at the offices of leFinanze,Riva dei Scliiavoni) which is continued along the western side of the Piazza by a fa9ade also built by the French. To make way for this addition to the palace, the church of San Geminiano, one of the finest works of Sansovino, and his burial-place, was demolished in 1810. The history of the church of San Geminiano is curious. It was founded by Narses upon ground by the side of the great campanile of S. Marco, and now forming part of the piazza, which was enlarged to its present extent by the demohtion of the ancient fabric. This demolition took place when Yitale Michiel was Doge, 1156-1172; and the consent of the pope was sohcited, but not obtained. *' The apostolic see may pardon a wrong after it is com- mitted, but never can sanction it beforehand," was the reply. Acting upon this guarded reply, they demo- lished the chm-ch, and rebuilt it upon the site wliich it afterwards occupied. But yearly the Doge came forth with his train to meet the parish priest, who, standing upon the desecrated spot, demanded of his Serenity that he would be pleased to rebuild the church upon its old foundations. " Next year," was the reply of the Doge ; and thus was the promise renewed and broken until the repubHc was no more. s 2 888 Route 31.— Venice: Pat, Eeale; Library, Sect. IV. The second cliurch of San Geminiano, falling into decay, was replaced, about the year 1505, by the structure which disappeared in the present century. The Imperial Palace contains some good paintings, dispersed through its several apartments : amongst others, in the octagon saloon, Tintoretto, the Adoration of the Magi, and Joachim driven from the Temple. In the chapel, Albert Durer, an Ecce Homo. — 'Paolo Veronese, Our Lord's Agony. — Some good Bonifazios and portraits by Tin- toretto, from La Zecca. — Bassano, the Presentation in the Temple. Several very clever pieces, and some showy frescoes, by Sayez and other modern artists. The W. side of the Piazzetta is occupied by the Lihreria Vecchia, now part of the Palazzo Reale, and united to the buildings of the Piazza. The donations of the MSS. of Petrarch and of Cardinal Bessarion induced the Senate to build the library in 1536 ; a task which they intrusted to Sanso- vino, who, in 1529, had been appointed architect to the republic. Petrarch ap- pears to have contemplated his visits to the Lagunes with no ordinary satisfac- tion ; and, in order more substantially to testify his grateful sense of the frequent hospitahty of the republic, he offered liis library as a legacy. In 1362, while the plague was raging at Padua, he had fixed his abode at Venice, which was free from it : his books accom- panied him, and, for their convey- ance, he was obliged to retain a nu- merous and extensive stud of baggage- horses. On the 4th of September in that year he wrote to the Senate, — " I wish, with the good-will of our Sa- viour, and of the EvangeUst himself, to make St. Mark heir of my library." His chief stipulations were, that the books should neither be sold nor dis- persed, and that a building should be provided in which they might be se- cure against fire and the weather. The G-reat Council gladly accepted this liberal donation, and addressed its thanks in terms of courtesy (perhaps not exaggerated, if we remember the times in which they were written), " to a scholar unrivalled in poetry, in moral philosophy, and in theology." A palace wliich belonged to the Mo- lina family, and which in later years had been converted into a monastery for the nuns of St. Sepulchre, was assigned as a residence for the poet, and as a depository for his books. This collection, which formed the nu- cleus of the now inestimable library of St. Mark, though by no means ex- tensive, still contamed many treasures of no ordinary value. Among them are enumerated a MS. of Homer, given to Petrarch by Nicolaus Sigeros, am- bassador from the Greek Emperor ; a beautiful copy of Sophocles ; the entke Iliad, and great part of the Odyssey, translated by Leontio Pilato, and copied in the writing of Boccaccio, whom the translator had instructed in Greek ; an imperfect Quintihan ; and most of the works of Cicero, transcribed by Petrarch himself, who professed most unbounded admiration for the great Roman orator. The Yenetians, to their shame, grievously neglected the stipulations that accom- panied the poet's gift. When Toma- sini requested permission to inspect the books, in the early part of the 17th century, he was led to the roof ' of St. Mark's, where he found them, " partly reduced to dust, partly pe- trified " — dictu mirum ! in saxa mu- tatos ; and he adds a catalogue of such as were afterwards rescued from destruction; the whole of Petrarch's MSS. have been destroyed. About a century after the establishment of this first public library in Venice it was largely increased by the munificence of Cardinal Bessarion, who, as patriarch of Constantinople, possessed frequent opportunities of securing MSS. of great rarity, and who may be considered the founder of the present library; and afterwards by the collections of Cardinal Grimani and of Professor Melchior Wieland, a native of Marienburg, who, out of gratitude for benefits con- ferred by the republic, bequeathed his library to it. It now contains about Venet. Prov. Eoute 31. — Venice: Library; Zecca, 389 120,000 vols, and 10,000 MSS., which in 1812 were transferred from the Li- hreria Vecchia to the splendid saloon in the Ducal Palace, no longer re- quired for the assemblies of the Grrand Council, and to some rooms adjoining. "The Librai-y of St. Mark is a build- ing of noble design, notwithstanding the improprieties with which it is re- plete. It consists of two orders, — the lower one of higlily ornamented Doric, and the upper one Ionic, and very graceful in effect. Of both these orders the entablatures are of inordi- nate comparative height. The upper one was expressly so set out for the purpose of exhibiting the beautiful sculptm'es with wliich it is decorated. The cornice is crowned with a balus- trade, on whose piers statues were placed by the ablest scholars of Sanso- vino. A portico occupies the ground- floor, wliich is raised three steps from the level of the piazza. This portico consists of 21 arcades, whose piers are decorated with columns. In the inte- rior are arches corresponding to the exterior ones, 16 whereof, with their internal apartments, are appropriated for shops. Opposite the centre arch is a magnificent stau^ase leading to the hall, beyond which is the library of St. Mark. The faults of this building, which are very many, are lost in its grace and elegance ; and it is, perhaps, the chef-d^ oeuvre of the master.* ' — Givilt. The interior decorations are in keeping with the exterior. The ceiling of the great hall in which the books were depo- sited is filled with very fine ornaments in stucco, and with paintings by the best Yenetian artists. Three compartments, honour, mathematics, and music, are by Faolo Veronese. Other subjects are — Tintoretto^ St. Mark dehvering a Saracen, and the furtive exportation of the relics of St. Mark from Alexandria ; and the grand staircase ; the latter has fine ornaments in stucco by Vittoria. The Zecca^ or Mint, adjoins the Li- breria, on the Molo. Built by Sanso- vlno in 1536, it is a noble specimen of Italian rustic-work, above which are t'WO orders, Doric and Ionic. From this establishment the ZeccJdno^ or Se- qidn, the ancient gold coin of the re- public, derived its name ; in the Stam- pena of the Zecca is a Madonna in fresco by Titian. The Cortile of the Zecca is by Scamozzi. Here is a singular figure of an Apollo, by Cat- faneOj holding a golden ingot. At the southern extremity of the Piazzetta are the itvo gra7iite columns^ the one surmounted by the lion of St. Mark, the other by St. Theodore, exe- cuted by Pietro Guilombardo (1329). These columns so completely formed a part of the idea of Venice, that they were repeated in most of the cities sub- ject to its dominion. St. Theodore stands upon a crocodile : his head is covered by a nimbus. In his 1. hand he wields a sword ; a shield is on his rt. arm. This is considered, says Francesco Sansovino, as symbolical of the temper of our republic ; and that she exerts her strong hand for her own defence, and not to attack others. St. Theodore Tyro was a young Syrian soldier, who suffered martyrdom under Maximinan, and was much honoured by the Eastern Church. Narses, after expelling the Ostrogoths, visited (a.d. 553) the rising repubhc of the Ye- netians — for Yenice, properly so called, did not then exist — and built a church or chapel in honour of St. Theodore, now included in that of St. Mark ; and St. Theodore continued the patron of the republic until, as already men- tioned, St. Mark supplanted him in the popular veneration. The lion suffered during the repub- lican rule of the French. From the book which he holds the words of the Grospel were effaced, and ^^ Droits de VSomme et du Citoyen''^ substituted in their stead. Upon this change a gon- dolier remarked that St. Mark, like all the rest of the world, had been com- pelled to turn over a new leaf. The lion was afterwards removed to the In- valides at Paris, but was restored at the peace of 1815. The capitals of the columns bespeak their Byzantine origin. Three were brought from the Holy Land in 1127. 390 Route 31. — 'Venice: Campanile; Doge^s Palace. Sect. IV. One sank into tlie mud as they weie landing it ; the other two were safely lodged on the shore ; but, as the story goes, there they lay, no one could raise them. Doge Sebastiano Ziani (1172- 1180) having offered as a reward that he who should succeed should not lack any " grazia onesta^'' a certain Lombard, nicknamed Nicolo il Barattiere, or Nick the Blackleg, offered his services ; and he placed the columns on their pedes- tals. Nicolo claimed as his reward that games of chance, prohibited else- where by the law, might be played with impunity between the columns. The concession, once made, could not be revoked; but the Council enacted that all public executions, which had hitherto taken place at San Giovanni Bragola, should be inflicted in the pri- vileged gambling spot, by which means the space " between the columns " be- came so ill-omened, that even crossing it was thought to be a precursor of mis- fortune. At the opposite end of the Piazzetta, near the Basilica of San Marco, are some other cmious relics of ancient times. The Pietra del Sando, at the corner of the church, a stumpy column of red porphyry, from which the laws of the E-epublic were promulgated ; it is said tp have been brought from Acre. The sqtiare pillars of St. John of Acre, originally forming part of a gateway in the Ch. of Santa Saba at Ptolemais : after a contest between the Yenetians and the G-enoese for that ch., in 1256, and in which the former were suc- cessful, they brought away these piers as a trophy of their triumph. They are covered with fretwork and inscrip- tions, apparently formed of mono- grams, which have never been ex- X^lained, and which are supposed to date from the 7th centy. The Latin cross sculptured on the base is of a much more recent date. Near the angle of the Piazza and Piazzetta stands the great Campamile or Bell-tower of St. Mark: begun in 902, under the government of Dome- riico Tiepolo, it was not carried up to the belfry until the time of Domenico Morosini (1148-1155), whose epitaph is so ambiguously worded as to claim the honour of the entire edifice. The ascent is by a continuous inclined plane a cordoni, which winds round an inner hollow tower. The belfry, an open loggia of four arches in each face, was built in 1510, by Maestro Buono ; the whole being surmounted by a lofty pyramid. The prospect hence is magnificent. A watchman is stationed in the belfry, who at stated times strikes the great bell. The height of the Campanile is 323 ft., and 42 ft. wide at the base. The Angel surmount- ing the tower, and serving as a weather- cock, is said to be 30 ft. high. There are several other campaniles of the same form in other parts of Yenice, at Murano, &c., but less elevated. At the foot is the much criticised loggia of SansovinOj built about 1540, orna- mented with four bronze statues of Pallas, Apollo, Mercury, and Peace — cast by him. The order is a fancifril Composite. The columns are of rich marbles. The elevation contains several bas-rehefs in marble, of which the three principal are in the attic, and represent in the centre Yenice as Justice, with two rivers flowing at her feet : on the rt. of the spectator, Yenus — the symbol of the Island of Cyprus ; on the 1., Jupiter — the symbol of Crete. The two bas-rehefs also beneath the bronze statues, on the side towards the flag- staffs, are much admired ; the subjects are, the Fall of Helle from the Ram of Phryxus, and Tethys assisting Leander. In the interior, which was used as the station for the Procurators in command of the guard during the sitting of the Great Council, is a Madonna by San- sovino. Falazzo Ducale. (Open from 9 to 4 daily, Sundays included.) On the eastern side of the Piazzetta stands the Doge's Palace, or Palazzo Ducale. The south- ern front extends along the Molo as far as the canal which separates the latter from the Riva degli Schiavoni. The first palace which was built on this spot was in 820. This having been destroye(J Ven. Proy. Route 31. — Venice: The Doge's Palace, 891 in a sedition was replaced bv another, built about 970, by the Doge Pietro Orseolo. This last was, 150 years after- wards, destroyed by a great fire, wliich consimied a thii'd of Venice. A second fire having destroyed the palace, its reconstruction began imder the Doge Marin Falier (1351-5) ; the architect, or at least the designer, being FU'qypo Calendario, the same, according to modern liistorians, who appears as a conspirator in Lord Byron's tragedy. That a person so named did take an active share in the plot, and that he was hanged with a gag in his mouth upon the red pillars of the balcony of the palace from which the duke was wont to view the shows in the Plazzetta, is imquestionable ; but the contemporary clu'onicle describes him as a seaman ; and it would seem that the real Filippo, at least the real artist, died in the preceding year whilst employed upon his works. Very little of Calendario's edifice now remains ex- cept the two large halls of the Maggior ConsigHo and Scrutinio, the rest of the palace dating from the reconstruction commenced in 1420 under Doge To- masso Mocenigo. In this reconstruc- tion the family of Bon or Buono, native architects, or, as they are termed in a contemporary document, stone- cutters (Tajajpieri), bore the principal part : the most eminent of whom was one of the sons, Bartolommeo, who has left his name inscribed on the most beautiful portion of the fa9ade, the Porta delta Carta or principal entrance to the Palace on the side of the Piaz- zetta. To the period of the Bons belong the whole of the beautiful colon- nades towards the Molo and Piazzetta, the Porta della Carta, and the passage leading from it to the Great Inner Court, which appears to have been completed about the year 1471. A gi'eat deal, particularly the sides of tVie Court, is of a later date — the interior of the builduig having been exceedingly damaged, or ratlier reduced to a shell, by two successive fires, in 1574 and 1577. All the principal apartments were destroyed by these conflagrations. The paintings of Griovanni Bellini, Car- paccio, Pordenone, and Titian, repre- senting the triumphs of tlie republic and the heroes of her annals, together with the vast halls whose waUs they covered, perished in the flames. The walls were calcined and riven. One corner of the building had fallen, se- veral columns and arches were shat- tered ; and PaUadio, who was consulted with other architects, maintained it would be dangerous, if not impractic- able, to attempt the re-insertion of the floors, and proposed to rebuild the whole palace in a more uniform and elegant style. But after much con- sideration in the Senate, it was de- termined not to innovate, but to retain the fabric as much as possible in its an- cient form. In the repairs and altera- tions, however, of the interior cortile, the later Italian style of the Eenais- sance is a good deal introduced. The plan of the building is an irregu- lar square : the 2 sides fronting the Piaz- zetta, and the Molo on a line with the Riva degli Schiavoni, are supported upon double ranges of arches. The columns of the lowest tier of arches are partly imbedded in the pavement, the level of wliich was raised (1732) about a foot, in consequence of the inundations to which the Piazzetta and Molo were subject, which gives them an undeserved appearance of clumsiness. They stand, however, not upon bases, but upon a continued stylobate, as discovered some years ago when the piazzetta was re- paved. It appears, from observations made with care, that the mean level of sea at Venice has risen about 3 in. in every cen- tury : so that, as these columns have been erected five centuries, about 15 in. of the lower part of them are now con- cealed, owing to the repeated and neces- sary elevation of the pavement. Before the fire both the upper and lower loggie were only separated from the main cortile, as well as from the Piazza and Piazzetta, by ranges of open arches, but now these are closed. The whole of the loggia towards the Molo, and the first six of the columns on the 392 Route 31. — Venice : The Doge's Palace. Sect. IV. side of the Piazzetta, being of larger diameter than the others in conse- quence of having to support a greater weight of the pre-existing edifice, are by the Bon family, Griovanni the father and his sons Pantaleone and Bartolom- meo. The capitals, executed princi- pally from the designs of the latter, are extremely curious for their varied designs, as they are elaborate from their execution. They contam figures and groups emblematical of good government and the due administra- tion of the law ; such as the legendary story, so popular in the middle ages, of the Justice of Trajan, the Seven Sages, and a long train of analogous allegory. The 9th and 10th of the upper tier in the Piazzetta, reckon- ing from the angle at the door of entrance, called the Porta delta Carta^ are of red marble ; from between these two columns, sentences on criminals were proclaimed. Dr. Moore, writing from Venice about 20 years previous to the fall of the republic, says, " The lower gallery, or piazza, under the pa- lace, is called the Broglio. In this the noble Venetians walk and converse ; it is only here, and at council, when they have opportunities of meeting together, for they seldom visit openly, or in a family way, at each other's houses, and secret meetings would give umbrage to the state inquisitors ; they choose there- fore to transact their business on this public walk. People of inferior rank sel- dom remain on the Broglio for any length of time when the nobility are there." The front over the colonnades and the large window towards the Molo are rich in figm-es and bas-reliefs, executed probably towards the close of the 15th centy. by Antonio Rizzo ; and the other large window, towards the Piazzetta (1523-1538), is as remarkable of its kind, having been executed by Tiillio Lombardo and Guglielmo JBergamasco : all are wrought with the greatest care. The principal entrance to the Palazzo is from the Piazzetta through the JPorta delta Carta, wliich possesses great symmetry and dehcacy. The inscrip- tion "Opus Bartholomsei" over the arch ( 1439-1443) declares the name of the architect. The 4 statues of Force, Prudence, Hope, and Charity, and the seated figure of Justice above, are good specimens of the sculpture of the 15th centy., and by members of the Bon family the statue of Doge Foscari, clming whose reign this beau- tiful gate was erected, kneeling before the Lion of St. Mark, was brutally broken to pieces by the democratic rab- ble in 1797, the head of Foscari, now in the museum, being alone preserved. Opposite to, and seen tln-ough, the JPorta delta Carta and the fine portal beyond it, which opens into the Grrand Court of the Palace, is the Scala dei Giganti, the Giants' Staircase, erected, towards 1483 by A. 'Rizzo. It derives its name from two colossal statues of Mars and Neptune by Sansovino, which stand on either side at the head of the staircase. The portals and arches are inlaid and incrusted with the finest marbles, most delicately worked, by Bernardo and Domenico di Mantovq; and the steps themselves are inlaid in front with a species of metal intarsia- tura. The statues of Adam and Eve, opposite the Scala dei Giganti, are by Rizzo, and are considered as having surpassed all previous productions of the Veneto-Lombard School. It was on the platform at the head of these stairs that the Doges were crowned — it was here also that Lord Byron, by a strange anachronism, has placed the closing scene of Marin Falier, for which there was no documentary authority. Round the colonnade on the 1st floor have been placed busts of Ve- netian celebrities — Enrico Dandolo, Morosini, Bembo, Ardvdno, Lazzaro Moro, Marco Polo, Tintoretto, Era Paolo Sarpi, Paruta ; of Doges Zeno, Vittorio Pisani, Foscari, and Rinieri, the last but one of Venice's lords ; of Galileo, Sebastian Cabot, &c. ; some placed here by their descendants, but the greater number by a society of patriotic Venetian gentlemen. In the court-yard are two finely sculp- tured bronze openings of cisterns or Ru- teali, one executed by Nicolb de Conti Vex. Pro V. Eoitte SI. — Venice: The Doge's Palace; Paintings, 393 in 1556, the other by Alfonso AJhor- glietti in 1559. On the 1. hand, when ascending the Giants' Stan-case, is a beantiful ia^ade of 2 stories, by €hi- glielmo Bergamasco^ forming one side of the Corte de' Senatori. Opposite the top of the staircase, and close to it, against the wall of the loggia may be obseiTcd an inscription let into the wall, commemorating tlie visit of Henry III. of France to Yenice in 1574. Passing along the corridor loggia, which siirroimds tlu^e sides of the com-t, and in wliich have been lately placed busts and statues of celebrated Yenetians, you find on the 1. the great staircase, the Scala d^Oro. Sansovino had a con- siderable share in its construction. The ornaments in stucco are by Alessandro VittoHa, and the paintings by Franco ; the whole was completed about the year 1577. There was much difficulty in adapting this staircase to the plan of the building. The adaptation of the fretwork to the cove of the ascend- ing roof is particularly skilfid : beyond this staircase are the Stanze degli Avvo- gadori^ in one of which is a Pieta by Giovanni Bellini; it was here in former times that the celebrated Libro d' Oro, or Roll of the Yenetian Aristocracy, was preserved. Farther on is a second flight of stairs, which leads to the Marcian Library ^?iitev ascending which a large door on the 1. hand gives admis- sion to the suite of rooms which occupy the fa9ades of the Palace on the side of the Molo and Piazzetta. The first room entered is an antechamber, now filled with books, and having over the door the portrait of Card. Bessarion, and above the opposite one leading to the great hall a portrait of Paolo Sarpi, by Leandro Bassano. From this opens the reading-room of the library, and beyond, the door leading to the hbra- rian's apartments, where are preserved the MS. treasures (upwards of 10,000) of this celebrated collection, amongst which may be mentioned the magnifi- cent G-rimani breviary, only 8ho\vn on Weds., with more than 100 splendid miniatures by Hemhng, Yandcr Mere, &c., of the 16th centy. j it was pur- chased by Doge Grimani for 500 zequins, and is one of the finest works of art of the kind in the world; the MS. of the Divina Commedia, of the 14th centy., with contemporary miniatures ; the Herbarium of Kimo (1415) ; the Wm of Marco Polo (1373) ; and many fine Greek MSS. bequeathed by Cardinal Bessarion ; and amongst the books, the first prmted at Yenice, Cicero ad Fami- Hares, 1469, and the Ed. Prin. of Ho- mer (1488), printed on vellum ; auto- graphs of several eminent personages are exhibited under glass. In this room may be seen two fine antique cameos of Jupiter Egyptiacus, illus- trated by E. Q. Yisconti, Re-entering the ante-room, the door opposite leads into the Sala del Maggior Consiglio. This truly magnificent Hall, 175^ ft. long, 84^ broad, and 51 J ft. liigh, was begun in 1310, and completed in 1334. It was afterwards painted by Titian, Bel- lini, Tintoretto, and Baul Veronese, The fire of 1577 destroyed it, and the adjoining one, dello Scrutinio, and all the works of art they contained. It is now the Bihliotheca di San Marco, or Marciana, the Hbrary of the Repubhc having been transferred here from the old Library in the Piazzetta in 1812. It is open from 9 to 4 o'clock, daily, including Sundays, but not on certain Feast-days. The decorations of this haU of the Great Council remain unaltered, and the splendid paintings which adorn the walls are proud me- morials of the opulence and power of the republic. In the history of art they are remarkable for a circumstance which had considerable influence on it. They are amongst the earliest large speci- mens of oil painting upon canvas. On the rt. as you enter, that is, upon the wall at the E. end of the hall, is Tintoretto — Paradise. Damaged and blackened by time and picture-cleaners, yet still powerful and impressive; said to be the largest picture ever painted upon canvas, being 84^ ft. in width, and 34 ft. in height. Proceeding round the hall, beginning s 3 394 Houte Si, — Venice: The Doge' s Polace ; Paintings, Sect. IV. with tlie picture next to this on the rt., at the E. end of the N. wall, the paint- ings occur in the following order. 1. Carlo and Gdbriele Cagliari^ sons of Paolo Yeronese. Pope Alexander III. discovered by the Doge Ziani and the senate in the convent of La Carita, where he had concealed himself when flying from Frederic II. in 1177. Ac- cording to one historian he was dis- guised as a scuUion, according to another as a poor priest ; in the painting his dress rather resembles the latter. Ba- ronius takes great pains to refute tliis story, and he is particularly angry with this painting. It is fuU of action. The group in the gondola in the foreground is good. 2. By the same. The Embassy de- spatched with powers from the Pope and the RepubHc to the Emperor ; a small composition cut in two by co- lumns, one in the light and the other in the shade : the groups are animated. 3. (Above the window.) Leandro Bassano. The Pope presenting the lighted taper to the Doge. By this act the Doge and his successors acquired the privilege of having such a taper borne before them. 4. Tintoretto. The ambassadors meet Frederic II. at Pavia, praying him to restore peace to Italy and the Church, when he made the proud answer, " that unless they dehvered up the pope he would plant his eagles on the portal of St. Mark." The principal figures, the two ambassadors, have great grandeur. 5. Francesco Bassano. The Pope delivering the consecrated sword to the Doge previous to his embarkation. The scene is in the Piazza of San Marco, of which it is a representation as the buildings stood at the end of the 16th century. 6. (Above the window.) Fiammingo. The Doge departs from Yenice receiv- ing the Pope's blessing. 7. Domenico Tintoretto. The great naval battle which took place at Sal- vore off Pirano and Parenzo in Istria, when the Imperial fleet was entirely defeated, and Otho, the son of the Emperor, taken prisoner, an event which induced Frederic , to treat for peace. This is a mere piece of national boasting, inasmuch as it appears, from the absolute silence of all contemporary T^^'iters, that no such battle was ever fought. The details of armour, cos- tume, and equipments are curious. 8. (Over the door leading to the Sala dello Scrutinio.) II Vicentino, Otho presented to the Pope. 9. Jacopo Balma. The Pope re- leases Otho, and allows him to repair to his father. 10. F. ZiiccJiero. The Emperor sub- mitting to the Pope. This painting is amongst the finest in the series. Amongst other beautiful portions is the group of the lady and her little boy. 11. (Over the door.) Girolamo Gam- herato. The Doge, who had co-operated so strenuously in the Pope's cause, having embarked with hhn and the Emperor, they land in Ancona on their way to Rome. On this occasion, ac- cording to the Yenetian chronicles, the Anconitans came out with two um- brellas or canopies, one for the Pope and the other for the Emperor, upon which the Pontiff desired that a third should be brought for the Doge, who had procured him the consolation of peace. On the W. side of the hall, beginning with the picture next to that last men- tioned, are — 1. Giulio del Moro. Consecrated banners bestowed upon the Doge by the Pope in the church of St. John Lateran : a composition in wliich the story is remarkably ill told. In the foreground are some strange grotesque figures, in particular a dwarf (without doubt, a portrait) leading a dog. 2. (Between the 2 windows.) Baolo Veronese, a fine work. The return of the Doge Contarini after the naval vic- tory gained by the Yenetians over the Grenoese at Cliioggia (1378). 3. rAliense. Baldwin of Flanders receives the Imperial crown from the hands of the Doge Dandolo at Con- stantinople. This is historically un- true, inasmuch as he was crowned by a legate. Vkx. Prov. Eoate si, — Venice: The Doge's Palace; Paintings. 395 On tho S, side of the liall are — 1. (Next to the last picture.) II Viceniino. Baldwm elected Emperor of the East by the Crusaders in the church of Sta. Sophia. 2. Domenico Tintoretto. The second conquest of Constantinople by the Crusaders and the Venetians (1204), which was followed by the pillage and conflagration of the city. 3. Palma Giovane. The first siege and conquest of Constantinople by the Crusaders (1203), the assault being led on by the Doge Dandolo, blind, and nearly 90 years of age. 4. II Vicentino. Alexis Comnenus, the son of the dethroned Emperor of Constantinople, Isaac, implores the aid of the A^enetians on behalf of his father. 5. (Over the window.) Domenico Tintoretto. The surrender of Zara. 6. Vicentino. Assault of Zara (1202) by the Yenetians, commanded by the Doge Dandolo and the Crusaders. 7. Le CI ere. The aUiance between the Yenetians and the Crusaders, con- cluded in the church of St. Mark, 1201. The ambassadors on the part of the Crusaders were Baldwin Count of Flanders, Louis Count of Blois, Geof- frey Count of Perche, Henry Count of St. Paul, Simon de Montfort, the two Coimts of Brienne, and Matthew de Montmorency. The ceiHng is exceedingly rich in painting and gilding. Three larger paintings are placed in a line down the centre. That nearest to the great pic- tiu'e of Paradise is by Paid Veronese, and represents Yenice amid the clouds and crowned by Glory. The centre painting, which is oblong, is by Ja- copo Tintoretto, and consists of two parts : above, Yenice is seen among the Deities ; below, the Doge da Ponte with the senators receiving deputa- tions from the cities who tender alle- giance to the repubUc. The third pic- ture is by Palma Giovane : the subject Yenice seated, crowned by Yictory, and surrounded by the Yirtues. Some of the smaller paintmgs are worthy of notice. Two octagonal pictures, on either side of the first mentioned oval, are by P. Veronese. As you stand with yoiu* back to the pic- ture of Paradise, the octagon on the rt. represents the taking of Smyrna ; that on the 1. the defence of Scutari. The two beyond these are the Yenetian Cavahy routing the army of the Yis- contis, by Tintoretto : that on the 1., the Yictory of the Yenetians over the Duke of Ferrara, by Bassano. There are three octagonal pictures on each side of the last oval by Palma. The two middle ones are by F. Passano: that on the rt. represents the victory gained by Yittore Barbaro over the Yiscontis ; that on the 1., the victory by George Cornaro over the Germans at Cadore in 1507. Further on, on the 1., Soranzo, in 1484, defeating the Ferrarese ; on the rt., the Defence of Brescia by the Yenetians ; and on the 1., the Capture of Gallipoli, in 1484 ; all three by Tintoretto. The two last compartments are painted by Palma Giovane, and represent, on rt., the Capture of Cremona, by F. Bembo, in 1427, and, on 1., of Padua, by Andrea Gritti, in 1509. Bound the Hall is the celebrated frieze of portraits of the 72 Doges, com- mencing from A.D. 809, with the black veil covering the space which should have been occupied by the portrait of Marin Falier, with the well-known in- scription. These portraits are, many of them, by Tintoretto, who must of course have painted the earher ones from fancy. A corridor connects this hall with the Sala dello Scrutinio, which occu- pies the rest of the fa9ade towards the Piazzetta. In this fine hall, formerly used to elect the 41 nobles, who after- wards nominated the Doge, are now preserved the MSS. collections, the early printed books, and the Aldine editions of the hbrary. The large painting opposite the entrance repre- sents a triumphal arch erected in 1694 to Francesco Morosini, surnamed II Peloponessiaco, from his having con- quered the Morea. His ephemeral con- quest is now principally recollected as connected with the destruction of the Parthenon. The three other sides are 396 Fite. 31. — Venice: The Doge's Palace ; Paintings, Sect. IV. adorned witli historical pictm^es: be- ginning on the rt. hand, — E. wall : 1. The Taking of Zara in 1346, by Tintoretto ; 2, The Capture of Cattaro in 1378, by Vicentino ; 3. The Battle of Lepanto in 1571, by the same. Over the window : 4. The Demohtion of Margaritino, in 1571, by Bellotti ; 5. The Victory gained by Mocenigo at the Dardanelles, by Liberi. On the W. wall, or that towards the Piazzetta : 6. Pepin, son of Charlemagne, besieg- ing the Eialto in 809 ; and 7, his de- feat in the Canal Orfano, both by Vicentino; 8. The Egyptian Caliph defeated at JaiFa in 1128, by Sante Feranda ; 9. The Capture of Tyre in 1125, by Aliense ; and 10, The Defeat of Roger Kmg of Sicily on the Coast of the Morea in 1141, by Marco Vecel- lio. On the wall opposite the Arch of il Peloponessiaco is Palma Giovane's Last Judgment, one of his finest works. The frieze of Doges is continued and concluded in this apartment. That of the last Doge, Ludovico Manm, under whom the republic perished, has re- cently been placed here. There are also several fine historical paintings on the ceiling, the best of which is an oval in the line of the middle of the ceilmg, next to Palma' s Last Judgment, by Francesco Bassano^ representing the Capture of Padua from the Carraras in 1405. Keturning to the vestibule from which we entered the Library, a door on the ]. opens into the Archceological Museum, arranged in a series of rooms, which once formed the residence of the Doges. The first room, a kind of corridor, contains some ancient marbles, a colos- sal Minerva, much repaired, and a statue of Esculapius, discovered at the baths of Abano. Opening out of this is the hall called the Camera degli Scarlati, from its being the robing- room, or where the scarlet robes of the members of the Maggiore Consiglio were kept. The most remarkable object here is the fine chimney-piece, richly ornamented with sculpture, executed for Doge Barberigo, about 1490. Over the door is a bas-relief of Doge Lore- dan at the feet of the Virgin, and several ancient marbles, with copies of others made in the 15th centy. Sala dello Scudo, so called from the sliield or coat of arms of the Doge being placed here on his election. The walls are covered with maps of the countries explored by Venetian navigators and travellers: they were originally drawn by the learned geographer Ramusio in the 16th centy., but these having almost disappeared, the present ones only date from 1762. Here has been lately placed the celebrated Mappe-monde of Frate Mauro, a species of geographical encyclopaedia of all that was known at the period of its construction, 1457. Era Mauro was a Camaldolese monk of the Convent of St. Michael at Murano, who appears to have composed this curious work for Alplionso V., King of Portugal. It remained at Murano until the suppression of the convent in 1811, when it was removed to the Library of St. Mark ; it has recently been pub- lished in facsimile by Viscount de Santarem, the eminent historian of early Portuguese geographical disco- veries. There are several other maps here : one worthy of being remarked is a Turkish one of the earth, in the form of a heart, by the Tunisian Sadgi Mahomed (1559). Alongside is the engraved wood-block from which it was struck : it was found in a galley cap- tured by the Venetians. Sala dei Bassi-rilievi contains some Greek mar- bles, among which a curious inscrip- tion of the Archons of Athens, and a sarcophagus with a bas-relief of Niobe and her cliildren. This hall may be considered as the ante-room of the Doge's residence. Opening out of the Sala dello Scudo are the two rooms which were really occupied by the Chief of the Republic until the end of the 16tli centy : one, the Sala des Marmi, con- taining ancient marbles ; the other is the other of the Scarlati, in wliich there is a fine Lombard chimney-piece, of the end of the 15th centy. The in- clined carved wooden roof in what was the Doge's bed-room is very beautiful. From the last room of this suite of Vex. Pkov. Tloute 31. — Yenke : The Doges Palace ; Fahitings, 397 apartments there is a good view over the Bridge of Sighs ; it opens on the Scala d'Oro. Returning to the grand corridor, and ascending tlie Scala d^OrOy a door on the 1. opens into the suite of rooms •which fill the upper story on the eastern side of the Palace. The first is the Sal a dell a Bussola^ the ante-room of the Council of Ten. At the entrance is an "opening, on which was a lion's ]\ead, the celebrated Lion's Mouth into which were thro^m the secret de- nunciations. The ceiling is painted by P. Veronese. The paintings on the walls by Aliense, of the Surrender of Brescia and Bergamo to the Venetians in 1426 and 1427. Out of this opens The Sala dei Capi del Consiglio del Died, containing a fine marble chun- ney-piece, sculptured by Pietro da Said in the 16th centy. The centre compart- ment of the ceiling has a painting of an Angel driving away the "Vices, by JPaiil Veronese ; a copy of that carried off to Paris, as well as the two lateral Sala del Consiglio dei Died. Op- posite the windows is the Visit of the Wise Men, by Aliense. To the rt. the Doge Sebastian Ziani returning from the victory obtained over the Emperor Frederic Barbarossa, met by Pope Alexander III., by Leandro Bassano, who has introduced his own portrait in the figiu'e carrying the umbrella beliind the Pope. Opposite to this, by Mar'co Vecellio, is the Congress held at Bologna in 1529, by Clement VII. and Charles V., when the peace of Italy was restored. The frieze is by Zelotti. In the very rich ceiling, an oval, containing a figure of an old man seated near a beautiful young woman, is a fine work of -P. Veronese. Two paintings, one an oval representing Ifeptune drawn by sea-horses, and an- other oblong. Mercury and Peace, are by Zelotti and Bazzacco. Sala delle Quattro Porte ; so called from the four doors, designed by Pal- ladioj remarkable for their symmetry. The ceiling is the joint production of Palladio, Sansovino, and A. Vitforia; the two first having given the designs, which were executed by the last. Here, as in the subsequent apartments, only a selection of the paintings can be noticed. Those of the ceiling are in fresco, by J. Tintoretto. On the walls, to the rt. as we enter, is the Doge Ma- rino Grrimani on his knees before Faith, a great work of Titian^s. The two figures at the side are hj Marco Vecellio; and Battle near Verona, by Co7itarini : opposite to tliis is the Doge Cicogna receiving the Persian ambassadors in 1585, and the arrival of Henry III. of France at the Lido, by Andrea Vicentino. Crossing this hall, we enter The Sala dei Pregadi or del Senato. Between the windows is a picture said to be by Marco Vecellio, but by some attributed to Bonifacio : the Election of S. Lorenzo Griustiniani to the Patri- archate of Venice in 1451. On the wall above the tlirone is a great work of J. Tintoretto : the dead Saviour, with Saints and two Doges kneehng. The two figures at the side are also by him. Of the pictures on the wall oppo- site to the windows, three — 1, Doge Francesco Venier before Venice ; — 2, Doge Pasquale Cicogna kneeling . before the Saviour ; — 3, The League of Cambrai, represented by Venice seated on a Lion, daring the rest of Europe. These three paintings are fine w^orks by Palma Giovane ; the 4th, The Doge Pietro Loredan praying the Virgin to assist Venice, is by J. Tintoretto. Above the door, opposite to the throne, is a fine work of J. Palma, the Doges Lorenzo and Girolamo Priuli adoring the Saviom% to whom they are pre- sented by their patron saints. The paintings of the ceiling are by different artists ; the best is the oval in the centre, representing Venice as Queen of the Sea, with many Deities, by Tintoretto. A small corridor, on tJie right side as the throne, leads to the chapel through an antechamber, in which, between the windows, is a beautiful work of Bonifacio, Christ driving the Money-changers from the Temple. i 398 jRoute SI, — Venice: The Doge's Palace ; Paintings. Sect. IV. The Chanel has little remarkable except the altar, by Scamozzi, and a Madonna and Child, sculptured by Sansovino. This apartment, in. fact, was merely a private oratory, the real chapel of the Palace being the Church of St. Mark. A small adjoining stair- case contams the only fresco painting remaining in Yenice by Titian. It is a single figm"e of St. Christopher : the head is fine. Returnmg to the Sala del Senato^ we pass into the Sala del Collegia, This was the audience- chamber, in which the Doge and the Grandi, his Privy Council, received foreign ambassadors. The pic- ture over the door, and the three to the rt. on entering, are by J. Tintoretto. The subjects are, — 1. Doge Andrea Gritti before the Madonna and Child. — 2. The Marriage of St. Catherine in the presence of Doge Dona. — 3. The Virgin with Saints and Angels, with the Doge da Ponte. — 4. Doge Al- vise Mocenigo adoring the Saviour, by C. Cagliari. On the wall at the throne end of the chamber is a splendid work of P. Veronese — a grand but confused composition of Venice triumphant, or theVictory of Curzolari (1571), in which are introduced portraits of the Grene- ral, afterwards Doge, Sebastian Yenier, and the Proveditore Agostino Barba- rigo. The two side figures in cliiar'- oscuro are also by P. Veronese. The picture between the windows, repre- senting Yenice, is by Carletto Cagliari. The rich ceiling was designed by Ant. da Ponte ; all the other paintings are by P. Veronese. The compartment nearest to the door represents Neptune, Mars, and flying children. In the centre an oval, containing Faith; the next is, Yenice seated on the world with Justice and Peace. These com- partments are surrounded by 8 smaller, representing 8 Virtues ; and by 16 in green chiar'-oscuro, with subjects from ancient history. A fine frieze runs round the room. The chimney- piece, with pilasters of verde-antique and statues, is by G. Cam'pagna. It was here that the republic perished, in 1797, by Lud. Manin resigning the I Dogeship. There are two doors with columns of cipoUino. A door in the side of this room, opposite to the tlirone, opens into the Anti-Collegio, a species of guard- room, containing four splendid paint- ings in Tintoretto'?, best style. They hang by the sides of the doors. The subjects are. Mercury and the Grraces ; the Forge of Vulcan ; Pallas drivmg away Mars ; Ariadne crowned by Venus. On the wall opposite to the windows are, the Return of Jacob to the Land of Canaan, by J. Bassano ; the Rape of Europa, by Paul Veronese^ a very fine painting, which went to Paris, the original of that in the Pinacotheca at the Capitol in Rome. This room con- tains also a splendid fireplace, and a rich doorway with two pillars, one of verde-antico, the other of cipoUino, said to have been brought from Santa Sofia ; both were designed by Scamozzi. Over one of the doors are 3 statues by A, Vittoria. The fresco in the centre of the ceihng is by P. Veronese, as well as the four chiar'-oscuro paintings : the latter have been repainted by Rizzi. From the Anti-Collegio opens a small room, called the Salotto di Ingresso^ which opens on the Scala d'Oro, the ceiling of which is painted by Tintoretto re- presenting Yenice offering the Sword and the Scales of Justice to Doge Gr. Priuli. A narrow, tortuous passage leads from here into one of the rooms of the Institute.^ where hang a good Yirgin and Child enthroned, by Catena^ and Portraits of Senators by Tintoretto, From the landing-place from which the Ducal apartments are entered, a stairs leads to the famous Sotto Piomhi at the top of the building, as their name denotes " under the leads." They were formerly used as prisons, and were repre- sented to be very disagreeable places of residence ; the heat in summer and the cold in winter being intense. Ja- copo Casanova was shut up in them in 1775. Silvio PeUico was not confined here, as so often stated: but it has been lately discovered by the defenders of the Venetian Grovernment that they Ven. Prov. Eoute 31. — Venice: The Arsenal. 399 must have been rather pleasant abodes. A few have been recently converted into dwelling apartments; the others are used for lumber-rooms. The Fozzi, or dark cells in the two lower stories, are still open to the visitor ; obscure and intricate passages lead to them, and the lowermost tier are perfectly dark, and correspond with the well-known and accurate descrip- tion given by Sir J. C. Hobhouse in the notes to the fom'th Canto of ' Childe Harold.' They were aU lined with wood, but this wainscoting was cliiefly destroyed when the cells were thrown open by the French. The Ducal Palace is separated, on the eastern side, by a canal called the Hio clella Paglia^ or di Palazzo, from the pubhc prisons, the CarceH, a fine build- ing, winch, on the side facing the palace, has a gloomy character suited to its destination. They were built in 1589, by Antonio da Ponte. The front to- wards the Riva dei Schiavoni is of a less severe character, owing to the architect placing in this part of the building the apartments intended for the Signori di Notte, the heads of the night pohce, which enabled him to introduce larger openings than in the portion intended for the security of criminals. This prison can now contain about 400 pri- soners. It is a very handsome building, with rustic arches below, and above these a range of Doric columns on pedestals, and a large cornice with con- soles in the frieze. The Molo is connected with the Piva dei Schiavoni by thePow^e della Paglia; standing on which and looking up the Bio di Palazzo, a covered bridge is seen at an unusual height above the water. This is the celebrated Ponte dei SospiH, or Bridge of Sighs. It served as a communication between the Ducal Palace and the prisons by a covered gallery, the interior being divided into a double footway. Pri- soners, when taken out of the prisons to die, were conducted across this gallery to hear their sentences, from which they were led to execution : hence its name. The Arsenal. The fifth bridge on the Riva dei Schiavoni, after crossing the Ponte della Pagha, is a small sus- pension one. This crosses the canal leading to the Arsenal. Just before this bridge is reached a passage on the 1. leads to the gates of the Arsenal. If we consider the size of the vessels when Venice was a naval power, the extent, size, and completeness of the basms, yards, and buildings of the arsenal must convey a high idea of the greatness of the power of the Republic. Of late years there was some difiiculty in obtaining admission to see it. Recently, however, foreigners have been admitted from 9 tilll o'clock, on presentation of their passports. The arsenal attamed its present dimensions, nearly 2 miles in circuit, between 1307 and 1320. Walls and towers, battlemented and crenelated, smTOund it. They are attributed to Andrea Pisano. The principal gate- way, erected in 1460, as appears fi'om an inscription upon the column on the 1. side, is an adaptation of a Roman triumphal arch. An attic with a pediment was added in 1581, sur- mounted by a statue of St. Giustina, by Girolamo Campagna, in comme- moration of the great battle of Le- panto, fought on the festival of that Saint, 7 Oct. 1571. Near this en- trance stand the two colossal marble Hons brought by Morosini from Athens in 1687. The most remarkable of them, that which is erect, stood at the en- trance of the Piraeus, which from this image was commonly called the Porto Leone. It is of very ancient workman- ship, and it has been conjectured, upon somewhat dubious grounds, to have been originally a memorial of the battle of Marathon. Engraven on this lion's shoulders and flanks are some Runic inscriptions, which have so much ex- ercised the learning, and baffled the penetration of antiquaries. Professor Rahn of Copenhagen supposes they record the capture of Athens and the suppression of a revolt in the reign of the Emperor Michael (a.d. 1409), and contain the name of Harold the Tall. 400 Route 31. — Venice : The Arsenal, Sect. IV. The head of the second of the lions is a restoration. The noble armoury was in part dis- persed by the French. It has recently been re-arranged, and still contams some very interesting objects, many of which were brought from the ar- moury at the Ducal Palace. — The great standard of the Turkish Admiral, taken in the battle of Lepanto, of red and yellow silk. Much fine and curious ancient armour, interesting both from its workmanship and the historical per- sonages to whom it belonged. Among those which have more claim to be con- sidered genuine are the shield, helmet, and sword of the Doge Sebastiano Ziani, 1172-1178. Upon the first is represented the Rape of Helen : upon the last, an Arabic cipher. The armour of Gattamelata^ for man and horse, of fine Milanese workmanship of the 15th centy. The full suit of Henry IV. of France, given by him to the republic in 1603. Tliis was brought from the Palazzo Ducale. The sword was stolen in 1797. ArhaUtes, or cross-bows, of remarkable power. Hel- mets and shields of the ancient Vene- tian soldiery, and of very strange forms. Quivers yet filled with arrows, perhaps used by the Stradiotes and other semi- barbarian troops of the republic. A press full of instruments of mui'der and torture. A species of spring pistol, in the shape of a key, with which it is said that Francesco di Carrara was ac- customed to kill the objects of his sus- picion, by shooting poisoned needles at them. In front of this press are some iron helmets of rough workmanship, without apertures for the eyes or mouth, so that the wretch enclosed in them could neither see nor breathe. Such being the case, it has been oddly conjectured that they were intended for the protection of the warriors who stood on the prows of the Venetian galleys. Others suppose that they were used as instruments of torture, or of restraint equivalent to torture, a conjecture less improbable. Ancient artillery and fire-arms : a springal of iron, not cast, but composed of fifteen pieces riveted together, and covered with exceedingly elegant arabesques, made by the son of the Doge Pasquale Cicogna, who flourished towards the close of the 16th cfenty. This also formed part of the ducal armoury. This armoury also contains the mo- nument raised by the Republic in 1795 to the High- Admiral Emo (died 1792). The bas-reliefs from his tomb, repre- senting naval subjects, were brought from the church of the Servites, when it was pulled down. The memorial, a rostral cohunn surmounted by a bust, was made for the place where it now stands, and is interesting as being amongst the earhest works of Canova, executed at Rome in 1795. It is ex- auisitely finished. There is also here a statue of Vittorio Pisani, of the 14th centy. The arsenal contains four basins, two large and two small. These are nearly surrounded by dry docks, building slips, and workshops. The roofs are supported by ancient arches, lofty and massive, some circular, some pointed, standing upon huge cylindrical pillars, with angular leafy capitals. The co- lumns are sculptured with numerous shields and inscriptions, some of which are in the ancient Venetian dialect. The rope-walk, the Corderia delta Tana, dates from 1579, having been erected by Doge N. da Ponte : it is 346 yards long, and is supported by 92 Doric pillars. The model-room still contains some curious materials for the history of naval architecture. The collection was once exceedingly rich and important, but the revolutionists at the close of the last century destroyed a great portion. They also stripped of its orna- ments the celebrated Bucentoro, the vessel from which the Doge annually, on Ascension Day, espoused the Adri- atic, and which, after having succes- sively served as a gunboat and a prison, was burned in 1824. A model of it is preserved here. The ceremony of the espousal, wliich took place off the Lido entrance to the Laguna, and was in- tended as a continued assertion of the Venetian Prov. Eoute 31. — Venice: Canal Grande ; Palaces, 401 right of the republic to the dominion of the Adriatic, has been traced back to the time of Doge Pietro Orseolo in 998. Long before the fiill of "Venice, the arsenal displayed all the decrepi- tude of the state. When the Frencli entered Venice, they found thirteen men-of-war and seyen frigates on the stocks. This enumeration seems re- spectable ; but of these vessels, none of Avhich were completed (nor were there any sufBcient stores or materials to do so), two had been begun in 1752, two in 1743, two in 1732, and tlie remainder at subsequent periods, so that, if the one most advanced could have been launched, she would have attained the respectable and mature age of 75 years. At present, the business of the arsenal is just kept alive, affording a scanty memorial of the operations which so strvick the fancy of Dante as to furnish the sub- ject for one of his most strange and striking similes : — ** Quale neir arzanli de' Viniziani BoUe I'inverno la tenace pece A rimpalmar li legni lor non sani Che navicar non ponno; e'n quella vece Chi fa suo legno nuovo, e chi ristoppa Le coste a quel che piii viaggi fece ; Chi ribatte da proda, e chi da poppa ; Altri fa remi, e altri volge sarte ; Chi terzeruolo ed artimon rintoppa : Tal, non per fuoco, ma per divina arte, Boiria lag:,'iuso una pegola spe&sa." Inferno, xxi. 7-18^ " As in the arsenal of Venice boils Tenacious pitch in winter, to repair The bark disabled by long watery toils; For since to venture forth they are afraid, One here a vessel builds, another there Caulks that which many voyages hatli made ; One strikes the prow— one hammers at the poop, — One mends a main, and one a mizen sail, — One shapes an oar, another twists a rope ; So, not by fire beneath, but art divine, Boil'd up thick pitch throughout the gloomy vale." Weight's Dante. Canal Grande. Palaces, — We will suppose the traveller to embark in a gondola at the stairs of the Piazzetta on the Molo, and .to proceed up the Canal G-rande or Canalazzo ; and will pass in review the more remarkable palaces, as far as the limited nature of this work wiU aUow. Nearly opposite to the Piaz- zetta is the island and church of San Giorgio^ and adjoining this, and en- closed by a sort of mole with a lantern tower at each end, is the original Porto Franco, whose limits are now extended to a considerable circuit round Venice. To the westward of this is the long canal and Island of La Gkidecea. On entering the Grand Canal, the Dogana del Mare, built in 1682, is on the 1. hand, on the point of land di- viding the Grand Canal from that of the Giudecca: beyond this is the Ch: of S. Maria delta Salute. On the rt., after passing the gardens of the Royal Palace, and the pavilion, in a classical style, built by Napoleon, at the en- trance of the canal is the Palazzo Gmstiniani, now the Alhergo delV Eurojpa, and beyond it the Palazzo Treves, formerly JEmo, containing a collection of pictures by modern artists, and two fine colossal statues by Ca- nova, of Hector and Ajax, A little farther is the Palazzo Contarini Fasan, which, although it has only two win- dows in front, with these beautiful bal- conies, is an exquisite specimen of the richest Venetian Gothic of the 14th centy. Fiu*ther on, on the same side, is the Palazzo Ferro of the same period, and i\\Q Palazzo Corner, built by Sanso- vino, in 1532. The fa9ade has three orders — Doric, Ionic, and Composite. It is now occupied by the Civil G-o- vernor of the province. Further on, but on the 1., incrusted with coloured marbles, and bearing the inscription " Genio Urbis Johannes Darius," is the Palazzo Dario, in the style of the Lomhardi, a fine specimen of the deco- rated fronts of the 15th cent., and con- tiguous to it the P. Manzoni. Beyond, with a quay in front, is the Accademia delle helleArti and the ch. oiLa Carita; opposite to which is the Tragetto or ferry of San Vitale, once the busiest ferry on tlie Grand Canal, over w^hich an iron bridge has been recently erected by Mr. Neville, an Enghsh engineer. Pi*oceeding — on the rt., P. Cavalli^ 402 jRoute 31, — Venice: Palaces; Rialto, Sect. IV. now the residence of the Count cle Chambord, with its fine Grotliic ydn- dows of the ISthcenty.; P. Griustiniani Lolin, of the l7th, by Longliena. On the l.j P. Contarini degli Scrigniy with three orders — Rustic, Ionic, and Corinthian — by Scamozzi. P. Rezzonico, Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian, by Longliena. Two palaces of the Giustiniani family, in the Venetian style of the 15thcenty. P. Foscari^ built towards the end of the 15th centy., and attributed to Bartolommeo Bon, the architect of the Doge's palace and of the Porta deUa Carta. Here, in 1574, Francis I. of France was lodged: it being then considered as the Palace which, in all Venice, was best adapted for the recep- tion of royalty. The tragic history of the Doge Foscari and his son is well known. They were not a powerful family, for the power of a family de- pended upon its numbers, and they were few ; hence, possibly, the extreme harshness and rigour exercised against them received so little mitigation. This beautiful edifice, which was faUing into ruin, and becoming dilapidated, having served during the Austrian rule as a barrack, has been purchased by the Municipality of Venice to place in it the Scuola Tecnica di Commercio, in- tended for young men destined for the Consular service, and for mercantile pursuits. Next to the P. Foscari, but separated from it by the canal or Rio di San Pantaleone, is the P. Balhi, by Aless, Vittoria, ni 1582, with three orders — Rustic, Ionic, and Composite. Behind it is seen the Campanile of the church of the Frari. The temporary building for the pubHc authorities, who distributed the prizes at the Regattas on the Grrand Canal, was always erected by the side of the Balbi Palace, as it commands a view of both reaches of the great canal. On the rt. hand, after the P. Griustiniani Lolin, are the large P. Grassi, now the property of the Viennese banker, Sina, the P. Morosini, and the P. Contarini, built between 1504 and 1546. The ar- chitect is unknown, but seems to be of the school of the Lomhardi. The eleva- tion has much fancy and elegance. The P. Corner- Spinelli, also by Lombard. On the 1., P. Fisani a S. Folo, built at the beginning of the 15th centy. ; arabesque Gotliic, but the latest of its kind. In tliis palace was the celebrated "Family of Darius," by Faolo Veronese, purchased for our National Gi-allery at the price of 13,560Z. The Pisani, though be- longing to the second class of Venetian nobihty, and strangers by origin, were amongst the most illustrious famihes of the republic. To this family belonged Vittorio Pisani, the great naval com- mander, who died in 1380, just after his skill and valom* had saved the re- pubhc from imminent peril. Falazzo Grimani a San Torna, a noble build- ing of the 16th centy., probably by Sanmicheli, now dismantled. P. Bar- herigo delta Terrazza : the fagade and entrance are in the Rio di S. Polo ; only a wing and terrace are on the Grand Canal. The Barberigo collection of pictures, so celebrated for its many Titians, has been sold to the Russian Government, On the rt. P. Grimani, now the Fost- Office, from the designs of SanmicheH, who unfortunately died before it was completed, in consequence of which some alterations for the worse were made in the design. It consists of three Corinthian orders exquisitely worked. It is one of the finest of the more modem palaces. San/micJieli, who was employed to build it by Girolamo, father of the Doge Marino Grimani, had great difficulties to contend with, in consequence of the irregular form of the site, of which the smallest side fronts the Grand Canal. Being now a pubUc building, it is kept in good repair. The Grimanis were originally Vicentine nobles, but after their aggregation to Venice they rose to high dignities iii the state. Two Doges were of this family, Antonio and Marino. Upon the election of the latter, 1595, his duchess, a lady of the Morosini fa- mily, was inaugurated with great splendour, according to the custom of Venice, in the case of a married doge, Venetian Prov. Eoute SI, — Venice: Palaces; Rialto. 403 She was conducted from her palace to San Marco, clad in cloth of gold, wear- ing d golden cro\vn, and, stepping into the Bucentoro, she was thus brought to the piazza, where she landed, amidst the strains of martial music and peals of artillery. In the ducal palace she was entln'oned amidst her ladies, and the balls and festivals of rejoicing lasted for weeks afterwards. Pope Clement YIII. presented her with the golden rose, blessed by the pontiff every year. According to the usage of the court of Eome, tliis rose is given only to sovereign princes, and the gift awakened, if not the suspicion, at least the caution of the senate. It had hitherto escaped notice that, al- though the doge wore only the beretta, the crown of his consort was closed or arched, wliich was considered as the pecuhar privilege of sovereign princes not owning any superior, and hence denied to the dukes of Milan, or the electors of the empire. The rose was, by the order of the senate, taken from the Dogaressa, and deposited in the treasury of St. Mark : and the corona- tion of her successors no longer took place. Opposite, and on the l.-hand side of the canal, the P. Dona^ of the Byzantino-Lombard style of the 12th centy., and the Palazzo Tiepolo, of wliich the architecture is of the 16th. The fa9ade is of the Doric, Ionic, and Composite orders, extending to the Fahriche of the Rialto. Beyond the P. Grimani on the rt. of the canal is the Palazzo Farsett% now the Congregazione Mimicipale. Beyond this, P. Loredan, of the same style ; P. Mocenigo, — here Lord Byron lived during his residence at Venice ; the writing-table of the poet is still shown as a precious rehc. The P. Bembo, a fine building, erected between 1350 and 1380 ; on the site behind stood the P. Dandolo, built by the Doge Henry Dandolo, of wliich a small but rich Gothic edifice of the 13th centy. adjoining, may have formed a part ; and last of all, before reaching the Bridge of the Rialto, the Palazzo Manin, by Sansovino, restored by Selva. It has a Doric, Ionic, and Co- rinthian fi'ont. It belonged to the last Doge of Venice. The land on the rt. hand in pass- ing up the canal forms the island of San Marco, that on the 1. the island of the Rialto; and at this part of the canal, near the Rialto bridge, on the 1. hand is the spot on which Venice as a city first existed. Even till the Ifitli centy., and perhaps later, " Rivo alto^^ was considered as the city in all legal documents, and distin- guished as such from the State of Venice : and of all the islands upon which the city now stands, it is the largest. After the population was extended into the other quarters, the Rialto continued to be the seat of all the establishments connected with trade and commerce. The Fab- hriche, a series of buildings, covering, perhaps, as much as a fifth of the island, and partly connected by ar- cades, were employed as warehouses and custom-houses ; the exchange being held in the piazza, opposite the church of San Jaco^o (the first church built in Venice), an irregular and now a neg- lected quadrangle. The whole place was the resort of the mercantile com- mimity ; but if you seek to realize the locality of Shylock and Antonio, you must station yourself in the double portico at the end of the piazza oppo- site to the church, that being the spot where the " Banco Giro''^ was held, and where the merchants transacted the business of most weight and conse- quence. SabeUico tells us that this " nobilissima piazza" was crowded from morning to night. In the night of the lOtli of January, 1513, a fire broke out which destroyed all the buildings as weU as then* con- tents. The senate immediately decreed the reconstruction of the commercial buildings, and they were intrusted to Antonio Scarjpac/nino, whose designs were preferred to those of the cele- brated Frate Giocondo. He was an artist of small reputation ; and Vasari speaks most contemptuously of his pro- ductions, ^h.QFahhricM are now prin- 404 Route 31. — Venice : Hialto ; Fondachu Sect. IV. cipally converted into private houses. Many portions have been demohshed ; all are neglected and in decay; and the merchants no longer congregate liere, but transact their business in their counting-houses. There were several churches upon the Rialto. San Jacopo is desecrated : San Giovanni^ by Scarjpignano^ is not ill-planned. The only building on the island now possessing any splendour is the Palazzo de^ CamerlingM^ only one side of which is upon the Grand Canal: to examine its architecture it will be necessary to land. Adjoining this Palazzo is the Ponte di Rialto. This very celebrated edifice was begun in 1588, in the reign of the Doge Pasquale Cicogna, Antonio da Ponte being the architect. His design was preferred to those by Pal- ladio and Scamozzi. Cicognara says lie is not sufficiently estimated ; but this edifice is more remarkahle for its solidity and originality than for its beauty. There was an older bridge of wood, which was replaced by the present structure. Sabellico informs us it was so constantly thronged by passengers tliat there was hardly any hour of the day when you could get along without much difficulty. It was intended that the bridge should have been much more adorned than it is at present. The ornaments wliich it now exhibits are confined to the statues, in the span- drils, of the Angel and the Virgin, or the Annunciation, and of the patrons of Yenice, St. Theodore and St. Mark. The span of the arch is about 91 ft., and the height from the level of the water is 24f ft. The width of the footway is 72 ft., and this width is di- vided longitudinally into 5 parts ; that is, into 3 streets or passages, and 2 rows of shops. The middle passage is 21 ft. 8 in. wide, and the 2 side ones near 11 ft. The number of shops on it is 24. The palace of the Treasurers, or dei CamerlingJii^ now the Tribunate d^Appello^ is on the 1. hand imme- diately after having passed through the bridge. It was built by Gruglielmo Bergamasco in 1525. It is irregular in figure owing to its site, but its architec- ture is much to be admired. Opposite, on the rt. hand, is the Fondaco dei Tedeschi. The Fondachi form a cmious portion of the reminis- cences of the ancient commercial pros- perity of Yenice. They were the fac- tories of the difierent nations, very sunilar in object to some still possessed by the Franks in the Levant, or by the Europeans at Canton, where the mer- chants of each language and race could dwell together under a domestic juris- diction ; where their business could be transacted, and their goods safely housed. It is hardly necessary to ob- serve that they have long since ceased to be applied to their original use. Some are converted into public offices, but, generally speaking, they are falhng into decay. The finest and the best preserved is the Fondaco dei Tedes- chi, near the foot of the Rialto. It was built some time after 1505, when the older Fondaco was burnt down. The architect was a certain Girolamo Tedesco, of whose history nothing else is known. Coupled arches and arched porticoes mark it as one of the diversi- fied channels by which the Yeneto- Grothic style passed into the classical style. It has now a somewhat heavy character ; but its walls were originally covered with frescoes by GiorgionCy , Carpaccio, and others, which have J long since disappeared. On the 1. are the Fahhriche Nuove di j Rialto, built by Sansovino in 1555.1 The fa9ade has three orders, Rustic, j Doric, and Ionic. On the rt. P. Valmarana, F. Michiel ' delle Colonne, and P. Sagredo, of the 13th centy., and beyond The Casa or Ca' d' Oro, perhaps the most remarkable of the Palaces of the 15th centy., and of which the ornaments are the most in the oriental style, par^ ticularly in the ogee or contrasted turns of the arches. It was gilded, and hence, according to some, its name; others Venetian Prov. Route 31. — Venice: Museo Correr. 40c say it was called after the Doro family. It was much dilapidated, but a few years since underwent a complete restoration by the proprietor, Madlle. Taghoni, the celebrated dancer : it now belor.gs to the Jew banker Herrera. On the 1. hand are the Palazzo Corner della Beglna^ now Monte di Pieta, built by Rossi in 1724, and the vast Palazzo Pesaro^ now BeTilacqua, built by Longhena. On the rt. are the Palazzo Grimani^ attributed to Sanmicheli, and the Pa- lazzo Vendraviin Calergi. This, which in the 16th centy. was reckoned as the -very finest of the Yenetian palaces, was built in 1481 at the expense of the Doge Andrea Loredano, by Pietro Lomhardo. But the circumstances of the family compelled them to aUenate it, and it was sold in 1681 to the Duke of Brunswick for 60,000 ducats ; and by tiie latter, not long afterwards, to the Calergis, and afterwards to the Yendra- niins. It now belongs to the Count de Qiambord. The order is Corinthian; but colimins are placed as mullions in tlie great arched windows which fill the front. It contains some works of art, amongst w4iich are statues of Adam and P^ve by Tullio Lomhardo, removed from the Yendi'amin Mausoleinn in Sau Griovanni e Paolo, and several in- teresting reUcs of the elder branch of the House of Bourbon. On the 1. is the Fondaco de Turchi, in progress of rebuilding ; it dates from the 11th cent., and, having belonged to the House of Este, was purchased by the RepubHc to form a factory for the Turkish merchants. Immediately be- yond it is The Museo Correr, or Municipal Museum, on the Grrand Canal, not far from the rly. stat., open on Mon. Wed. and Sat. This collection, the result of individual exertion, was formed by Count Correr, who be- queathed it to the Municipality of Yenice, and by whom it is now very liberally supported. There is a very good catalogue by the late Director, Signor Lazzari, and hand catalogues of the pictures in each room. It consists of a series of ancient marbles, a collection of arms, and a gallery of pictures arranged in six rooms on the first floor, forming the Pinacoteca, among which may be cited — Stefano Pievano. a Madoinia (1369) ; Mantegna,i\\Q Transfiguration; G. Bellini, portraits of Doges Gr. Mocenigo and F. Foscari ; and Marco Palmezzano, Christ bearing the Cross. On the uppermost floors are the library; an ornithological collection formed by Count Contarini ; a series of engravings, amongst them the very curious one on wood of Yenice, dating from A.D. 1500 — it is generally sup- posed to have been executed for the German banker Kolb, by Griacomo de' Barbari, and consists of 6 pieces juxtaposed ; amongst the sculptures a bust of Paolo Grreggo, governor of Negropont in 1470, by Tiziano Arpetti. Some interesting pictures of old Yenetian masters (the pretended portrait of Cesar Borgia by L. da Vinci) ; an extensive series of original drawings, amongst which are some by P. Veronese, Guercino, Longhi, &c. ; the fine collection of Correr coins and medals, and that of manuscripts, amongst which are worthy of special notice, some canzoni of Petrarch, and a Portulano, or collection of marine charts, by Pietro Yisconti of Grenoa, executed in 1318, one of the oldest works of this kind in existence with a certain date. The collection of ma- jolica in the Picture Grallery is one of the small but good ones existing in Italy : particularly worthy of notice are 232, 233, 234, by Andi-eoli or Maestro Grcorgio of Gubbio ; a series of ten specimens by Maestro Xanto of Urbino (1531-34) ; nine by Orazio Fontana of Castel Durante, the sup- posed author of the celebrated medi- cine-pots once in the Pharmacy, now at Loreto ; and 17 plates of Faenza ware, dated 1681, perhaps the choicest in the collection. There are also several good specimens of Murano painted glass, of Limoges and German enamels. In the Coppelli Collection, filling a 406 Route 31. — Venice : Palaces, Sect. IV. large room preceding the Pinacotheca, the flags of the Bucentoro ; several modern pictures relative to "Venetian history ; a kind of memorial to Canova, consisting of some of his earlj paint- ings, drawings, and models ; Canova' s mask, taken after death ; the great sculptor's working tools ; and two baskets of fruit (formerly in the Palazzo Farsetto) , his earhest work in sculpture, when he was only 14 years of age (1772). There is a very interesting series of the Seguins of the Kepubhc from the middle of the 13th centy. to Francis II. of Austria, in 1848 ; of the coins of the last RepubHc in 1848 ; of seals, &c., &c. Beyond the P. Correr is the Ch. of S. Simeon Piccolo ; and nearly opposite to the Rly. Stat., the P. Papadopolo, with its fine gardens, nearly at the extremity of the Canal Grrande. Further on to the rt., after the P, Vendramin, a canal, much wider than those hitherto passed, opens out of the Canal Grrande, and leads to Mestre. On the angle formed by this canal, which is called the Cannareggio (i. e. canal regio), with the Grand Canal, stands the Palazzo Labia, built by CominelU, much dilapidated. Pro- ceeding up the Cannareggio, immedi- ately after having passed under the bridge, we arrive, on the 1., at the Falazzo Manfrin, an elegant mo- dern building. It once contained the finest collection of paintings in Ye- nice after that of the Academy : they filled ten rooms, but the best of them were sold (1856), and those that re- main wiU soon follow the same disper- sion ; they are to be seen Mondays and Thursdays from 9 till 1. There are hand catalogues in each room ; and as the pictures that remain are of very second-rate importance, we have omit- ted the list of the Manfrini gallery inserted in former editions. Other palaces, not upon the Grand Canal, which ought to be mentioned, are the Palazzo Trevisan a S. Zaccaria (Ponte di Canonica), by G. Bergamasco, richly incrusted with fine marbles, and marking the transition from the Gothic to the Itahan* This palace afterwards passed to the CapeUo family, having been purchased by the celebrated Bianca for her brother Yittore Capello, in 1577. The original CapeUo Palace is near the ch. of S. Apolhnare : it was from the latter that Bianca fled with PietroBona- venturi, in 1563, who carried her to Flo- rence, where she became the favourite, and subsequently the wife (1578), of Francesco dei Medici. Palazzo Corner Mocenigo (Campo di San Paolo), built by Sanmicheli, remarkable for the boldness of its ele- vation and its grandem\ Palazzo Morosini, in the Campo S. Stefano, of the 16th cent. Here was born F. Morosini, surnamed Pelo- jponesiaco ; and are still preserved his arms and other memorials. In the same Campo are the P. Loredan, and the vast P. PisanL The Palazzo Grimani a S. Maria Formosa, in a narrow street {Ruga Giuffa) near the Campo of S. Mana Formosa, is attributed to Sanmicheli. It contains a collection of ancient sta- tues, bas-reUefs, and inscriptions ; but is chiefly remarkable for the colossal statue of Agrippa, which was formerly in the vestibule of the Pantheon at Home : both arms and legs are re- storations ; it now stands in the court of the palace. The illustrious Roman is represented, his 1. hand seizing a dolphin. On the opposite side of the quadrangle is a good torso in armour, of the time of the Antonines, restored as a colossal statue of Augustus. There are some second-rate paintmgs in the large rooms on the first floor, and a Christ crowned with Thorns, by Palma Vecchio, in the chapel. Palazzo Padoer, in the Campo di S. Giovanni Bragola, a fine specimen of the Gothic of the 14th centy. (1310) : the front is ornamented in coloured marbles, with a rude relief of an eagle. This palace has been lately restored, the front painted barbarously in wliite and red squares, Hke a chess-board. Palazzo Giovanelli, a fine specimen of the pointed style of the 15th centy. It is situated near the Ch. of S. Fosca, and Ven. Prov. Eoute 31. — Venice : Churches, 407 belongs to the wealthy patrician prince whose name it now bears. The modern decoration of the apartments is very rich. Palazzo Falier, near tlie Bridge and Campo of the SS. Apostoh, in the Ai'abo-Byzantine style of the 13th centy. ; it has 4 handsome pointed windows beliind a modern balcony. It belonged to Marino, the decapitated Doge, and was confiscated to the State after liis execution in 1355. Amongst the remarkable E.ouses of Venice may be mentioned the Palazzo Moro (modernized), on the Campo del Carmme, the supposed residence of Cris- toforo Moro, the Othello of Shakspeare : on the corner towards the Canal is the statue of a warrior of the 15th centy., probably by Rizzo. The Palazzo del Poli, in the Corte del Sahhion, beliind the ch. of S. Giovanni Crisostomo, now a cafe. Teatro Malihra n, of which little more remains than a handsome walled- up doorway, in the Arabo-Byzantine style. Here lived Marco Polo, the celebrated traveller of the 13th cent., who died here in 1323. Tintoret- to's Jiouse was on the Quay of the Campo dei Mori, near the Madonna del Orto ; and Titian's, in the Calle di S. Cancino, at a place called Berigrande, opposite to the island of Murano. Chueches. Generally speaking, the churches of Venice are fine, and varied in character ; they fall into 4 principal styles, which, amongst themselves, are very uniform. The first is a pecuhar Gothic, gene- rally plain, massive, and solemn, un- like the arabesque richness of the ducal palace, and the secular structm'es of the same order. The second is a style which here they term Lombard, but which is a revival of the Roman style in the 15th centy. The third is clas- •sical — Itahan, properly so called — of which the principal examples in the sacred edifices here are Palladian. The last is the modem Italian ; sometimes overloaded with superfluous ornament. Perhaps no city in Italy, not even Rome itself, possessed formerly so many chm'ches in proportion to its population. It was the poHcy of the Venetians that every shoal and island should have its mother church, surrounded by a host of minor oratories. Ch. of SS. Apostoli, rebuilt in 1575, is a reho of an older building much modernized. It is chiefly re- markable for the sepulchral chapel of the Corner family. The architect was Guglielmo Bergamasco : fanciful Co- rintliian pillars, half fluted in the gene- ral way and half fluted spirally, support it. Here are the tombs of Marco Cor- ner, father of Catherine Queen of Cy- prus, and of Giorgio her brother. This ch. contains a dubious P. Veronese, near the high altar, the Fall of the Manna. La Chiesa de' Ca^rmini, or of La Ver- gine del Carmelo, a fine church of the 14tli centy., but the fa9ade is modern. It has several good paintings, among which are, at the second altar, the Nativity, by Ci'ma da Conegliano ; at the last on rt., the Presentation in the Temple, by Tintoretto. On the neigh- bouring Campo stood the Palazzo Moro, called the Casa di OteUo, where Shakspeare's hero is supposed to have lived. Ch. of S. Casiano, beyond the Bridge of the Rialto, remarkable for three fine paintmgs by Tintoretto at the high altar, the Resurrection, the Descent into Hades, and the Crucifixion — the latter perhaps one of the grandest works of the master. At the second altar on rt., the Meeting of Mary and Elizabeth, by P. Veronese ; and at the fifth, a St. John Baptist, by Palma Vecchio. San Francesco delta Vigna. This magnificent, though still unfinished church, was built at the expense of the Doge Andrea Gritti, by whom the first stone was laid Aug. 15, 1554. Sanso- vino had made the designs ; these were criticised, and differences of opinion arose, particularly with respect to tlie proportions of the building. The Doge was troubled, and opinions were taken ; amongst others, Titian was consulted. The building was completed, but from the designs of Palladio, and much of 408 Route 31. — Venice : Church of the Frari. Sect. IV.- what we now see, the fa9ade, with its lofty portal, bears the impress of liis style. The entrance is profusely ornamented. It contams 17 chaj)els : in the fourth chapel on rt. is the Resurrection, m the fifth on 1. a Virgin and Child with St. Margaret, both by Faolo Veronese ; in the Capella Santa a Ma- donna and Child, with saints and the Donatario by Giov. Bellini; in the sacristy a curious Ancona by Jacohello del Fiore. The Capella Grlustiniani is in the sumptuous style of the Lom- bardi. There are several tombs of doges of the 16th and 17th centuries in tliis ch. The small bronze statues of St. John and St. Francis in the holy- water basin, are by Al. Vittoria. The Frari^ or Sta. Maria Gloinosa de" Frari^ built, at least designed, by Ni- colo Fisano, about 1250. The interior consists of a rather narrow nave and aisles, with 2 short transepts, in which are 3 chapels on each side of the choir. Each aisle is separated from the nave by 6 pointed arches. Having belonged to the Franciscans, it contains several tombs of liistorical interest. In the basins for holy water are two small bronze statues by Grirolamo Campagna ; that on the 1. represents St. Antony, that on the rt. Innocence. Commencing the circuit of the chm-ch, on the rt. hand as we enter is the colossal monument of Titian, completed at the expense of the Emperor of Austria. It had been the intention of Charles V. to erect a tomb over the remains of the great painter, but it was reserved for the Emperor Ferdinand I. to do so. The monument, which was un- covered in 1853, consists of a massive basement, on which rises a highly deco- rated Corinthian canopy, under which is a sitting statue of the painter crowned with laurel, and behind bas - reliefs copied from his three greatest works — the Assumption of the Virgin, the Death of St. Peter Martyr, and the Mar- tyrdom of St. Lawrence. There are several statues allegorical to the Arts, on either side, and two on the base- ment; that holding the inscription *' Titiano monumentum erectum sit Fer- dinandus L, 1839," is by Zandome- neghi : the statue of the old man hold- ing a book, on which is written, ^^Eques et Comes Titianus sit. Carolus V. 1553," at whose feet is a volume inscribed, " Canones et Decreta Con- cilii Trident ani^^^ is intended for Fra Paolo Sarpi, and is the last work executed by Zandomeneghi (1847). The statue of Titian and some of the others are by Zandomeneghi, who was also the principal designer of the mo- nument. The marble slab with the verses — " Qui giace il gran Tiziano de' Vecelli, Emulator de' Zeusi e degli Apelli," whicli for centuries was the only me- morial on the artist's grave, still may be seen on the rt. of the present mag- nificent mausoleum. No trace of his remains were, however, discovered be- neath. The painting of the Presenta- tion in the Temple, at the 2nd altar, is by Salviati ; the statue of St. Jerome, over the 3rd, is by Aless, Vit- toria ; at the 4th, the Martyrdom of St. Catherine, by Falma Giovane. Beyond this altar is a door, over which is a wooden case, long supposed to contain the bones of Francesco Carmagnola, the celebrated condottiere, executed at Venice in 1432 ; but it is now weU ascertained that his remains were car- ried to Milan. In the corner of the rt.-hand transept is a fine picture, in three compartments, by B. Vivarini, 1482. It represents the Virgin and four Saints, with a Pieta above. The Gothic monument of the Beato Paci- fico over this was raised by his family in 1437. This Beato, originally the architect Soipione Bon, died in the middle of the preceding century. The monument of the Venetian general, Benedetto Pesaro, is a triumphal arch, and forms the decoration of the door of the sacristy. The principal^ figure is by Lorenzo Bregni; on his 1. is a fine one of Mars, by Baccio da Montelwpo. The Bregnis, who flourished about the latter part of the 15th and the beginning of the 16th centuries, were members of one of the families of artists, of which there VjbiN. Prov. Hoitte 31, -^Venice: Church of the Frari. 400 were many in Italy, amongst whom art was so successfully carried on by tradition. Paolo was an architect ; Antonio^ his brother, a sculptor ; and both worked upon these tombs. Lo- renzo Bregnl^ not less eminent, Hved a generation later. In the sacristy is a beautiful paint- ing OTcr the altar by Giovanni Bellini^ in three portions, the Madonna and four Saints (1488). Also some high re- liefs of the Crucifixion and Burial of our Lord. Eetuniing into the church, in the 2nd chapel on rt. of the choir, a good Gothic tomb, of the 14tli centm'y, of Duccio degli Alberti, a Florentine am- bassador (ob. 1-336). In the Tribune are two splendid monuments : on the rt. that of the unfortunate Doge Fran- cesco Foscari (died 1457) — an exceed- ingly noble elevation by Auto. Rizzo The columns support statues. Lord Byron's tragedy has rendered the his- tory of the Foscari family familiar to the English reader. This monument was erected by the Doge's grandson Kicolo, who filled several important offices in the repubhc between 1480 and 1501. Opposite is the tomb of the Doge Nicolo Tron (died 1472), by Antonio Rizzo, which is 27 ft. in width and more than 40 in height, being com- posed of five stories, and adorned by 19 fuU-length figures, besides a profusion of bas-rehefs and other ornaments. The screen before the choir deserves notice from its pecuUar construction, and its low reliefs of saints of the 15th centy. ; on the roodscreen are statues of the Virgin and St. John. The high altar was erected in 1516. The picture, the Assumption of the Vir- gin, is by Salviati. The stalls of the choir, which extends as far as the 5th arch of the nave, are of the very finest wood-work, the backs most beautifully inlaid, or worked in tarsia, by Gio- vanni Paolo di Vicenza, 1468, or ac- cording to others by Marco di Vicenza. In the 7th chapel (1st on 1. of high altar) is a painting of the Virgin En- throned, by B. Licinio ; in the next is the monument of Melchior Trevisan N, Italj/—lS6d. (died 1500), by Dentone : the statue above is in complete araiour, standing boldly forth in simplicity of conception combined with great richness in execu- tion. The St. John in wood, and in the niche over the altar, is by Dona' tello. There is some good painted glass by Maestro Marco, of 1335, in the corner chapel opening into the 1. tran- sept. In the 9th chapel is a good altarpiece by Luigi Vivarini, completed by Basaiti, the Crowning of the Virgin, with a group of Saints on either side. In the 1,-liand transept is a monu- ment, the work of the Lombardis at the end of the 15th century — it was raised by Mafieo Zen to his wife Generosa Orsini ; and 3 paintings of S. Mark and 4 other saints, by B. Viva- rijii (1474). In the chapel of St. Peter, opening out of the N. aisle, are a font with a statue of St. John the Baptist, by Sansovino ; some sculptures of the 15tli centy.; an Ancona in compart- ments, containing statues of saints below, St. Peter in the centre, with the Virgin and 4 female saints above, by Jacohello dalle Massegne (1485) ; and the monument to Bishop Miani, with 5 statues, probably by the same artist (1464). Beyond the entrance to this chapel is the monument, rich in Oriental marbles, of Jacopo Pesaro, who died 1547. Over the Pesaro altar is a fine votive picture by Titian^ called the Bala dei Besari. It is the property of the Pesaro family, and therefore was not taken to France. It represents the Virgin seated in an elevated situation, within noble architecture, with our Saviour in her arms, who turns to St. Francis : below is St. Peter with a book ; on one side of him St. George bearing a standard, on which are emblazoned the Pesaro arms, with those of Pope Alexander VI. ; below are the Donatorio, a bishop, and five other members of the Pesaro family, kneeling before the Virgin, one of whom, a young female, is particularly lovely. In composition this picture ranks next to the Peter Martyr. More full and deep colour belongs to the nature of the subject, if subject it may 410 Bte. Sli — Venice: Church of the Frari ; Archives. Sect. IV. be called, and it possesses it. It is also an excellent specimen of back- ground finished to character, but so well composed to receive that finish that it nowhere obtrudes on or inter- rupts the principal matter, though it has itself sufficient grandeur and in- terest, and is perfectly natural. Titian received, in 1519, 102 golden ducats for this magnificent work, including six for the frame. The monument of the Doge Gio- vanni Pesaro (died 1659) is also a stupendous fabric, but it is more re- markable for its singularity than its beauty. It is supported by colossal Moors or Negroes of black marble, dressed in white marble; their black elbows and knees protruding through the rents of then' wliite jackets and trousers. In the centre sits the Doge. It is a curious specimen of the bad taste of the 17tli centmy. The arclii- tect was Longhena^ the sculptor Bar- thel : it was executed about 1669. By the side of this, opposite that of Titian, is the monument erected to the memory of Canova (in 1827), borrowed from his own design for that of the Archduchess Christina at Vienna. A vast pyramid of wliite marble, into whose opened doors of bronze various mourners. Religion, Art, Genius, and so forth, are seen walking in funeral procession, with a crouching lion of Sti Mark on the opposite side* This design of Canova' s monument was at one time proposed to be erected to Titian. Only Canova's heart is pre- served here in an alabaster vase, the test of his remains being at Possagno. On the altar which follows is a large bas-rehef of the Crucifixion. Between this and the principal door is an elegant monument, in marble, to Pietro Bernardo (who died 1568), by Alessandro Leopardi. The mediaeval monument near it is of Simeone Dan- dolo, one of the judges of M. FaUer (ob. 1360). The fine detached bell- tower was commenced in 1361 by Ja- copo, and finished in 1396 by Pietro I*aolo dalle Massegne. Several of the doors leading into the ch. of the Frari are fine specimens of the Pointed style of the 14th cent. Venetian Archives. The conventual buildings attached to the ch. of the Frari have been converted into a depository for the archives of the an- cient Yenetian state. Their bulk is appalling: they are said to fill 295 rooms, and to consist of upwards of 14 millions of documents, extending from A.D. 883 to the present time. They have been formed from the collections of suppressed monastic estabhshments, from the records of noble Venetian families, and from the ancient diplo- matic archives of the Republic. The selections relating to Sanuto, and from the diplomatic correspondence of the Yenetian envoys in England, made by Mr. Rawdon Brown, show to what good use they might be tui'ned. / Gesuati, or more properly S. Maria del Rosario, on the quay overlooking the Canal della Giudecca, a handsome modern ch. of the last centy. ; the high altar is richly decorated; the Christ on the Cross between the two Maries, in the last chapel on 1., is by Jacopo Tintoretto. The adjoining convent be- longed to the Jesuits* The Chiesa c?e' Gesuiti, built by Fat' ioretto and Eossi (1715-1730), is an ex- traordinary specimen of the theatrical and luxurious magnificence of the churches of this order. The walls are tabled with carved marble inlaid with verd'- antique and other coloured mar- bles in flowers. The twisted columns of the altar are solid blocks of verd'- antique mixed with brocatello, as is also the pavement within the altar-rails. The roof is finely coloured. Beneath a slab in front of the high altar is interred Manin, the last of the long line of Venice's Doges. The inscription, "tEternitati Su^ Manini Cinekes," is singularly affecting. Manin, a weak and honest man, was unequal to the exigencies of the times he lived in, and when required to take the oath of alle- giance to the Austrian Emperor he dropped senseless upon the ground, so Vex. Prov. iioiite 31.— Venice : ChurcheSi 411 poignantly did he feel his country's abjection and misfortunes. In the chapel, on the 1. of the high altar, is the tomb of Doge Cicogna (ob. 1595), by Gr. Campagna, and, in that on the rt., the mausoleum erected to Orazio Farnese by the senate in 1676. In the Sacristy are — the Discovery of the Cross, by Palma Giovane ; a Circumcision, by Jacopo Tintoretto ; — in the aisle an Assumption, by D. Tintoretto, and the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, much injured, by Titian. Ch. of S. Giacomo di Bialto, at the foot of the bridge. On the site of tliis church stood the first church which was built in Yenice, erected in 421. In its present form it was first built in 1194. It was entu-ely restored or rather rebuilt in 1531, but " precisely in the old form, as we are informed by an inscription in the portico ; we may doubt the perfect accm^acy of the imitation, but the six marble columns of the nave, with their capitals copied from the Corinthian, are probably parts of the ancient building. The middle space is about twice the width of the others, forming a transept, and a cupola rises at the intersection. I suspect that this was an innovation, but on the whole it is a pretty little thing." — Woods. It contains a fine bronze statue of St. Anthony the Abbot, by G. Campagna, and one at the high altar, of the patron saint, by A. VittoHa. The best paintings are — in the 1st chapel on 1., the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, by Titian ; in the 2nd, an Assumption, by Tintoretto ; and in the 1st on rt., Tobias and the Angel, by Falma Giovane. San Giohhe, at the N.W. extremity of the city, upon the Canareggio, and behind the Botanic Garden and Rly. Stat., a ch. that contahis several in- teresting works of art. The principal entrance from the Campo is a fine spe- cimen of the Renaissance style of the 15th centy. ; on it are statues of SS. Antony, Bernard, and Louis of Tou- louse. The most remarkable works of art in the interior of the ch. arc. — in the Sacristif and over the door, a por- trait of Doge Crist. Moro, by Gentile Bellini; a Virgin, with St. John Bap- tist and St. Catherine, by Giov. Bellini; and over the altaran Annunciation, with Saints, by the Vivarinis. Thegreat object of attraction, however, is the chapel of the choir, dedicated to St. Bernardino of Siena, entered under a finely deco- rated arch, on each side of which are statues of Virgin and Angel represent- ing the Annunciation ; the four me- dalUons of the Evangelists borne by Angels were executed in 1470. On the floor is the tomb of Doge Cristoforo Moro, who reigned from 1462 until 1471, a great patron of learning and the arts, who introduced printing into Venice, during whose time Cardinal Besarion gave his library to the Republic, and Caterina Cornaro be- came Queen of Cyprus. The chapels opening out of the 1. aisle are richly decorated: in the 2nd, dedicated to St. John Baptist, are 3 good statues by the Lomhardi, and on the vaults 5 circular bas-reliefs of the Almighty and 4 Evangehsts, attributed to Luca delta Rohhia, the rest of the roof being in chequered tile- work, the whole admir- ably preserved. The alto-rehevo of St. Peter in the 1st chapel on 1. is by Antonio Rossellino, the statues of St. Luke and the Angels being very good. Amongst the several sepulchral monu- ments in S. Giobbe may be noticed that of Voyer d'Argenson, the envoy of Louis XIV. to the Republic, by the Parisian sculptor Claude PerrauU* The cloisters and convent gardens at- tached to this ch., extending from the Canareggio to the rly. stat., have been converted into the Botanic Gardens. Near here are the public shambles, Macello Publico; and on the 1., re* turning to the Canal Grande, the two Ghettos or Jews' quarters, where there are several Synagogues, that of the Spanish Hebrews being the most re- markable. Cli. of San Giorgio Maggiore. This fine edifice, on the island of the same name, at the extremity of the Canal della a? 2 il^ Itoute 31. — Venice : Churches, Sect. Wi Giudecca, opposite to the Piazzetta and E-iva degli Schiavoni, was designed by Palladio, and begun in 1556, tliougli the front was not completed till 1610. The general proportions of the front are pleasing. " Internally the church has a nave and two side aisles, but the piers are very solid, and admit no oblique view between them on entering the great door. Tlie nave itself is much inferior to that of the Kedentore. It is too short, and the pedestals are too high. The transept cuts the lines dis- agreeably ; and the want of some pro- jection or alteration of plan at the nitersection produces an efiect of feeble- ness. The altars are all similar, simple, and good.*' — Woods. This church was finished under the directions of Sca- mozziy who is beheved to have made some alterations in the design of Pal- ladio. It contains several good pic- tures : at the 1st altar on the rt. the Nativity, by J. Bassano : at the 2nd a crucifix by MicTielozzi ; at the 3rd, Martyrdom of Saints ; at the 4th, tlie Yu'gin crowned ; both by Tintoretto. On the walls of the central chapel, the Falling of the Manna and the Last Supper, by the same. The 48 seats in.the choir are beautifully sculptured by Albert de Brule, a Fleming : they represent events in the life of St. Benedict. The group of figures in bronze over the high altar is by Gir. Campagna. A door on the rt. on entering the chou^ leads into a corridor, where is a monument erected in 1637, from the design of Longliena, to the memory of the Doge Domenico Michiel (died ] 128) . It was this doge who urged the Venetians to co-operate in the cru- sade ; he is styled on his monument, of a date long posterior, the Grcecorum Terror. In the two^ chapels on the 1. of the choir are the Resurrection, by Tintoretto ; and in the N. transept the Martyrdom of St. Stephen ; in the 2nd altar on the 1. a statue of the Virgin by Campagna; and in that next the door the Martyrdom of St. Lucia, by Leandro Bassano. Over the principal entrance is the monument to Doge Donato, the supporter of Fra Paolo Sarpi in his discussions with Rome on the riglits of the Republic. As amongst the last works of Palladia^ the portico and refectory in the monas- tery are interesting. Ch. of San Giorgio de'' Greciy the ch. of the Greek rite in Venice, is from tlie designs of Sansovino. It is well known that the Greeks do not admit of sculpture in their sacred edifices. Medallions of mosaic in the facade, and, within, paintings of which the ground is covered with silver plates, therefore constitute the principal orna- ments. *' On the division which sepa- rates the sanctuary from the body of the church are some paintings coated with silver, and having crowns and other ornaments of gold attached to them, and leaving hardly anything visible but the faces. I was assm'cd that the painting was complete beneath this covering, and that tjie parts which were figured in low relief on the silver plate corresponded exactly with the drawings behind it." — Woods. The altar is hidden behind a screen, covered with paintings, and filling up the entii'e E. end of the ch. The mosaic of the Transfiguration is a fine work of the Zuccatis. San Giorgio dei Schiavoni, on the canal behind the ch. of S.Zaccaria,in the style of Sansovino of the 16th centy. The scuola annexed to this ch. contains 8 paintings by Carpaccio, relative to the patron saint, to St. Jerome, 2 representing Christ in the house of the Pharisee, and on the Mount of Olives ; the Virgin Enthroned, in the principal chapel, is by V. Catena. Near here is the ch. of the Knights of Malta, San Giovanni dei Furlani, which contains a monument to Arch- duke Frederick of Austria, who died at Venice in 1847. San Giovanni in Bragola, rebuilt in 1728, in the Campo della Bragola (from Brago, a swamp), ofi* the Riva dei Schiavoni. There are some good works of art here: on the 1. wall a triptych of SS. Martin, Jerome, and Andrew, by A. Vivarini ; a Last Sup- per, by Paris Bordone ; in the Sacristy Vkn. Pnov. Rte, 31. — Venice : Church of SS, Giovanni e Paolo. 413 another triptych, by A. Vivarini; and a St. Helena and Constantino, by Cima da Conegliano, The Baptism of Christ beliind the high altar is a lovely work, by the same ; in other parts of the eh., Christ before Pilate, and the Washing of the Feet, by Pahna Giovane ; and a triptych of theV irgin with SS. Andrew and John Baptist, by JB. Vivarini; with 3 small subjects be- neath by Cima. The large adjoining Palace painted in red and white chec- quers is the P. Badoaro Partecipazio. San Giovanni Crisostomo^ by Tullio Lomhardo^ 1489. Paintings — 1st altar on rt., Giovan* Bellini, St. Jerome with 2 Saints ; over the high altar, Se- bastian del Fiomho, St. Giovanni Cri- sostomo and Saints. The fine bas-reUef of the Coronation of the Yirgin, and the 12 Apostles, by Tullio Lomhardo, in the 2nd chapel on 1. In this the ma- nagement of the perspective is very remarkable. Ch. of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, better known as San Zanipolo, begun in 1246, but not finished till 1390. The architect's name is not known : he is supposed to have been of the Bchool of Nicolo Pisano. Its length is 330^ ft., its width between the ends of the transepts 142.^ ft., and in the body 91 ft. : its height 123 ft. The principal door, with columns and sculp- tures, is in the finest Pointed style of the 13th centy. ; there are some rude bas-reliefs of the 7th and 8th cents, let into the wall of the facade, and in the niches on the side of the door some tombs of Doges of the 13th. The interior is a fine specimen of the early Italian Gotliic; the 5 wide pointed arches on either side of the nave give it a very light appearance, so different from our northern Gothic churches. The transepts are very short in proportion to the length of tlie nave. The once handsome tribune has been sadly disfigured by the modern adapt- ation of Corinthian ornament. On the rt. on entering is the mo- nument of the Doge Pietro Mocenigo (died 1476), the work of Pietro (the father) and Antonio and Tullio Lorn- hardo (the sons), At- the first altar on the rt. is a picture of the Virgin and Child, by G, Bellini, with 5 Saints on either side, and 3 cliildren sing- ing below. At the 2nd altar, one in 9 compartments, attributed to F", Carpaccio, Outside the 6th chapel are the colossal monuments of the Doges Silvestro and Bertuccio Yaher, 1658, 1700 ; and of the wife of the former, in the style of Bernini. The 7th chapel (dedicated to St. Dominick) con- tains 6 bas-reliefs representing the ac- tions of St, Dominick, by Camilla Mazza ; 5 of them are in bronze, the 6th in wood. In the rt.-hand transept, near the angle, is a picture of St, Augustine seated, by B. Vivarini, 1473. Over the door of this transept are the tombs of the general Dionigi Naldo (died 1510) by Lorenzo Bregno, and at the side that of Nicolo Orsini Count of PittigHano (died 1509), both in the service of Venice against the League of Cambray ; these two monu- ments were raised at the expense of the Eepubhc. The large window with good painted glass was executed by Girolamo Mocetto in 1473, from the designs of B. Vivarini. In a line with the liigh altar are 2 chapels, on each side. In the 1st are 2 paint- ings, by Bonifazio, of several Saints ; and in the 2nd, that of the Magdalene washing the Feet of the Saviour is a fine work of the same painter ; that of the Emperor Constantine, with SS. Vito and Ascanio, the Virgin and Saints, and some portraits of nobles, is by Tin' toretto; the group of the Crucifixion over the altar by Gug. Bergamasco. On the wall on the rt. hand of the high altar is the monument of the Doge Michele Morosini (ob. 1382), in a tolerably pure Pointed style. Morosini reigned only four months, but this short reign was illus-. trated by the capture of Tenedos. Next to this the monument of the Doge Leonardo Lqredan (died 1521) commemorates one of the wisest of the princes of Venice, when her prudence I and fortitude baffled the league of Cambrai. The design is by Girolamq 414 Rte, 31. — Venice : Church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, Sect. IV. Grapiglia^ 1572'. The statue of the Doge is by G. Campagna^ the others by Danese Cattaneo. Opposite to this is the most splendid monument of its kind in Venice — that of the Doge An- drea Yendramin (died 1479). " The bas-rehefs and the statuettes round the sarcophagus seem as if taken from the intaglio of a G-reek gem, so pure is the outUne, so graceful the invention, and so dignified the style." — Cicognara. The statue of the deceased Doge, stretched on the bier, exliibits him as fallen asleep rather than as dead. In the architectural portion the arabesques of the pilasters and friezes are remark- able. They are attributed to Alessandro Leopardi. The elevation of Andrea Vendramin to the sovereignty (1478) marks the dechne of the primitive pohcy of the state. He was the first of the newly ennobled famihes admitted to the honours heretofore monopoHsed by the descendants of the primitive aris- tocracy. The founder of the family was a banker or moneychanger, who, having fitted out a vessel at his own expense during the war of Cliioggia, was inscribed on the Libro d'Oro as a reward for his patriotism. In the chapel of the Trinity are two good works of Leandro Bassano, one on the wall on the 1. hand, tlie Disinterment of St. John ; the other, over the altar, the Trinity, Madonna, and Saints. The sepulchral urns contain the remains of Doge Pietro Corner (ob. 1368), and of Andrea Morosini. In the next chapel, on the wall on the rt. is the beautiful Gothic tomb of Jacopo Cavalli, by Jacohello dalle Massegne, and opposite that of Doge Delfin (ob. 1361) . In the adjoining N. transept is a marble group representing Vittore Capello receiving the haton of command from S. Elena, hj Antonio Dentone (1480) ; and the mo- nument of Leonardo Prato, with a good equestrian statue. From the transept a door leads into the chapel of the Rosary, over which is the tomb of Doge An- tonio Yenier (ob. 1400). This chapel, before it was destroyed by fire in 1867, was splendidly decorated with sculp- tures in wood and marble. In the Sacristy are paintings of Christ bear- ing the Cross, by Alvise Vivarini, of Honorius III. approving of the Order of St. Dominick, by JSassano, &c. Further on, beyond the door of the sacristy, is the monument of Doge Pasquale MaUpiero (died 1461). In the subjacent niches are the tombs of Doge Michael Steno (in whose reign Padua was seized, and Fran- cesco di Carrara barbarously mur- dered in his prison), with the painted statue of the deceased (ob. 1413) and of Alvise Trevisan (ob. 1528). Then follow monuments of doges and gene- rals : an equestrian statue of Pompeo Griustiniani (ob. 1616) ; Doge Giovanni Dandolo (ob. 1289) ; Doge Tomasso Mocenigo, by Fietro da Firenze and Martino da Fiesole (1423) ; and of Doge Nicolo MarceUo, a fine spe- cimen of the Lombardi style, by Ales' sandro Leopardi (1474) . At this altar, which is the second on the 1. hand on entering the church, stood the cele- brated St. Peter Martyr, by Titian^ perhaps his finest work, indeed con- sidered by many the third picture in the world, coming after the Trans- figuration of Raphael and the Com- munion of St. Jerome by Domenichino. It represented the martyrdom of the saint ; it was destroyed by fire on 16th August, 1867, having been removed, dui'ing repairs, to the Chapel of the Rosary ; an inferior copy occupies its place. At the last altar is a fine statue of St. Jerome, by Alessandro Vittoria, Between here and the 1st chapel on 1. is a Coronation of the Yirgin, by Girolamo da Udine. On the wall, on the l.-hand side on entering the principal door, is the monument of the Doge Giovanni Mocenigo (died 1485), a fine work of Tullio Lorn- hardo. Amongst the other ducal mo- numents in this Westminster Abbey of Yenice are those of Marco Giustiniani (1347), with rude bas-rehefs of the Yirgin (above is a picture of the Yir- gin with 3 Senators kneehng before her, by J. Tintoretto), of Doges Alvise Mocenigo (1576), and of Giovanni Bembo (1618), over the great entrance •Ven. Prov. lite, 31. — Church of La Madonna deW Orto, 41^ — the two latter by GrapigJia. Tliis interesting churcli is now under repair. In the Campo in front of the church stands the celebrated statue of Bartolonimeo CoUeoni, the second equestrian statue raised in Italy after the revival of tlie arts, that of Gatte- melata by Donatello being the first (see Padua). Andrea Verrocchio gave the design and model for it, but, according to the story, he died of grief because he could not complete it, in conse- quence of the failm-e of the mould. It was cast by Alessandro Leopardiy whose name can be traced in the inscription upon the girth beneath the horse's body : *' Alexander Leopardus F. opus." This may be rendered "fusitopus." Tliehand- some marble pedestal is lofty, supported and flanked by composite columns. Colleoni is said to have been the first who employed field-pieces in warfare. Although this is not strictly correct, he is nevertheless to be considered as one of the great teachers of the modern art of war. The statue is very ani- mated. The beautiful building which forms the N. side of the Campo, the Scuola di San Marco, is a fine speci- men of the richly decorated Yenetian architecture of the 15th century, orna- mented with coloured marbles in the style of Ca' Doro and Palazzo Dario ; the portal, surmounted by the Lion of St. Mark, and this again by a statue of the Saint, is very elegant. The Scu- ola as well as the conventual buildings behind the cliurch have been converted into an hospital, accommodating on an average one thousand patients. The two great halls of tlie Scuola are fine adaptations of Martino Lombardo's architecture; out of the lower one opened the chapel of Santa Maria della Pace, in which were discovered some years ago the sarcophagus con- taining the bones of Marin Falier ; it is now said to be used as a sink- cistern in the laboratory of the Hospital. Beyond the Hospital for the Sick, is an extensive one for lunatics, which extends as far as the Fundamenti, opposite to the island of S. Michele. Ch, of La Madonna delV Orto^ at the N. extremity of the city, facing the island of Murano. A fine Gothic edi- fice ; the fa9ade was erected in 1473, and approaches our Decorated style. Over the door are statues of the Virgin, of the Angel of the Annunciation, and of St. Christopher, and, on the sides of the gables, of the twelve Apostles, by Bartolonimeo Bon, w^ho executed so much of the Palazzo Ducale. The interior consists of a nave and two aisles, separated by marble columns supporting pointed arches, probably of the end of the 14th centy. The roof, flat, and of wood, was formerly richly painted. The church contains several paintings by Tintoretto, the two prin- cipal ones being the Last Judgment, a most singular pictiu'c, and of enormous size, at least 60 ft. by 30. Nothing can be more strange than the composition, or more unhke the ordinary representa- tions of the subject. Opposite to it, and of the same size, the Worshipping of the Golden Calf. The arrangement is peculiar, but it is nevertheless a pic- ture of great powder. These two great works are on the w^alls on each side of the high altar, behind which is a colossal statue of St. Christopher, by Morazzone. Besides these, the church contained a fine work of Cima da Conegliano, St. John the Baptist and four other Saints ; the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, by VandyTce ; a small but fine Madonna and Child, by Giovanni Bellini; and the Martyrdom of St. Agnes ; one of the most pleasing pictures of Tintoretto. Before its spohation this church was the richest in Venice ; but much has been carried ofi", and the neglect of repairs has caused the almost total destruction of the paintings which formerly existed on the roof. The best time for seeing this church to advantage is towards the afternoon. It is principally of brick, and the ornaments are formed out of that material. The upper por- tions were partly destroyed in 1828, by lightning. In La Madonna dell' Orto were buried Tintoretto, Alessandro Leopardi, and Ramusio, the celebrated writer on geography. The ch, has 416 Route 31. — Venice : Churches, Sect. IV. been long undergoing repair, and the best paintings temporarily transferred to the Grallery of the Academy. Santa Maria della Misericordia^ more generally known as the Abhazia, at the ISr. end of Venice, and not far "from the churches of i Gresuiti and of La M. deir Orto, has some interesting works of art : in the sacristy a Nativity, by Bassano ; in the gallery near the sacristy are a Tobias and Angel, by Cima da Conegliano^ and St. Louis of Toulouse, by the same ; an Adoration of the Magi, by Tintoretto ; and the Baising of Lazarus, by Falma Giovane, who painted also the Beato Lorenzo Giustiniani. In sculpture, the Ma- donna over the high altar is by B. Bon ; it formerly stood on the exterior of the building. The bust of the Mag- dalene in the 1st chapel on 1. is by Dentone ; and a good bas-relief of tli» Deposition, of the 14tli centy. Ch. of >S'. Maria Formosa^ in the Piazza of the same name. This church was built in the 15th, but altered in the l7th century. The well-known story of the Brides of Venice who were carried off by the pirates of Istria took place in this church. The memory of the event was long kept alive by an annual procession of Vene- tian women on the 2nd of February, and by a solemn visit paid by the Doge to this church. Over the en- trance is the sarcophagus of Vincenzo Capello (ob. 1541). Inside the ch. at the first altar on the rt. is, by Balma il Vecchio^ a series of 6 paintings, with S. Barbara in the centre, and SS. Domi- nick, Sebastian, John the Baptist, and S. Luigi Gronzaga on each side, and a Dead Christ above. The Santa Bar- bara is, perhaps, the finest Avork of this master. At the 2nd altar 3 paintings on panel by Vivarini (1473) ; and at the 3rd a Dead Christ by Bahna Giovane. Opposite to the great entrance to St. Maria Formosa is a beautiful Gothic arch of the 14th centy., overlooking a bridge (the Bonte del Baradiso). Ch. of the Madonna del Miracoli, built between 1480 and 1489. The plan was produced by competition. The name of the successful architect is not preserved ; but he appears to have en- deavoured to get the prize by novelty of style ; and the exterior exhibits a very curious attempt to unite the Byzantine and Italian styles. The designs were carried into effect by Bietro Lomhardo, and some portions are his own. Within, the ornaments of the raised presbytery, in the centre of which stands the high altar, have singular beauty, especially the arabesque reliefs on the columns and friezes; and its elaborate ceiHng in compartments, with 50 heads of saints in the Bellini style. In its flom'ishing days the Madonna from whom it derived its name attracted to this ch., which was annexed to a Fran- ciscan monastery, abundant alms and offerings. The front is rich in marbles and decorations. Titian lived in the neighbourhood of this ch. Sta. Maria della Salute : founded pursuant to a decree of the senate in 1631, as a monument of thanksgiving after the cessation of the great pesti- lence, in which 60,000 of the inhabitants are said to have died. It is a great octagonal ch., out of which opens a deep recess, forming the Lady Chapel and choir, erected under the direction Baldassare Longhena. Internally, the dome is supported on eight pillars, the aisle continues all round it, and there are eight recesses, seven of which are chapels, and the eighth forms the entrance. The interior is splendidly decorated, and contains many fine works of art. In the 3 first chapels on the rt. a series of paintings, by Ltica Giordano, of the Presentation in the Temple, the Assumption, and the Nativity of the Virgin. The 4 large compartments on the roof of the chou" are by Salviati. and the 8 smaller ones, containing the Evan- gelists and Doctors of the Church, by Titian. He has represented himself in the figure of St. Matthew.^ In the passage leading from the choir to the sacristy St. Mark and 4 Saints, by Titian, in his first manner; St. Se- bastian, by Basaiti; and a curious bas-relief of \hQ Deposition, attribute^ Yexetian PpwOv. Route 31.— Venice: Churches, 417 to A. Dentone. The roof of tlie sacristy is also painted by him, representing the Death of Abel, the Sacrifice of Abraliam, and David and Goliah. Over the altar here is the Madonna della Salute, by il Pado- vanino. On the side wall of the sa- cristy are the Marriage of Cana, by Tintoretto ; Samson and Jonas, by FaJma Giovane ; and 2 curious An- conas by Cristoforo da 'Parma (1495), and Andrea da Murano^ of the 14th century. The Melchisedec and the Triumph of David on the opposite w^all are by Salviati. Returning into the church, in the 3rd cliapel on the 1. is the fine pictui'e of the Descent of the Holy Spirit, by Titian^ painted when the artist was in the full vigour of his talent. The conventual build- ings adjoining the church have been of late years converted into the Pa- triarch's Ecclesiastical Seminary, for wliich they are weU suited. The Hbrary, formerly belonging to the Somaschi Fathers, a higlily cultivated confra- ternity, is remarkably good. Several fragments of sculptm'e, sepulchral and others, of artistical and historical in- terest, have also been removed here from desecrated churches. In the ora- tory is the tomb of Sansovino, the sculptures by A. Yittoria. Sansovino' s remains had lain for 250 years in the ch. of S. Geminiano. They were re- moved here in 1820. Ch. of San Mo'ise, near the Piazza di San Marco. A small marble slab in the floor opposite the entrance marks the grave of John Law, the celebrated originator of the S. Sea scheme, who died here in 1729. It was placed by his descendant. Marshal Lauriston, when he was Governor of Venice in 1808, when Law's remains were trans- ferred here from the ch. of S. Gemi- niano. There is a Last Supper, by Palma Giovane^ and Christ wasliing the feet of the Pilgrims, by Tintoretto^ in the chapel on the 1. of the high altar. Ch. of San Pantaleone, near the Frari, built in 1668. In the second chapel on the rt. is St. Pantaleone healing a child, by P. Veronese ; and in a chapel to the 1. of the high altar, the Coronation of the Virgm, by G. and A. da Murano (1444), and a finely worked Gothf) altar of the same period. A side chapel is arranged in the form of the Holy House at Loreto, with a good Gothic group of the Virgin and Child ; the roof of this ch. is covered by an enormous painting of the Glorification of St. Pantaleo, by A. Fumiani. Ch. of San Pietro di Castello, on the island of S. Pietro, which forms the extreme E. part of Venice, and beyond the arsenal, interesting as being the mother church or cathedral of Venice, from the earliest times of the repubHc down to 1807. The cam- panile (1474) is fine. The facade, by Smeraldi, was erected in 1594; the interior, by Grapiglia, between that period and 1621. The church contains 2 paintings by Basaiti^ of St. Peter enthroned, and St. George ; and others by Idheri and Lorenzini, and a St. Peter and St. Paul, near the 3rd altar on the rt., by P. Veronese, The rich Vendramin chapel, incrusted with marble, is from the design of Lon- ghena. Near the 2nd altar on the rt. is a curious relic, an ancient episcopal seat, said to have been that of St. Peter, at Antioch, and given by the Emperor Michael III. to Doge Tra- donico, in the middle of the 9th cent. ; the back is covered with Oriental in- scriptions, which have exercised the sagacity of some recent antiquaries. Ch. of II Pedentore, in the island of La Giudecca. This church, an ex-voto built by the republic after the staying of the plague of 1576, is considered by the common consent of architects as the finest of Palladio's ecclesiastical edifices. It has the advantage of a commanding situation upon the broad canal of the Giudecca ; and the front exhibits all the peculiar characteristics and favourite arrangements of Palladio. It is entirely his design and was begun by him in 1577. "Internally, it has a finC; wide, single nave, and tliis simple disposition might be well imitated in our Protestant churches. The arrange- t3 418 Eoute 31. — Venice : Churches . Sect. IV. ment and colour of the lower part are ! beautiful, and if the vault were a semi instead of a segment, and panelled in- stead of whitewashed, it might be cited as a perfect model of this mode of architecture. The termination of the choir wants consequence, and the plain whitewashed wall, behind the semi- circular screen of columns, is absolutely disagreeable. The supports of the dome are good, and have no appear- ance of insufficiency." — Woods. The church contains, at the 1st altar on the rt. the Nativity, by F. Bassano ; at the 3rd the Flagellation, by Tintoretto ; — at the 3rd on the 1. a Deposition, by Palma Giovane ; at the 2nd a Resurrection, by F. Bassano ; and at the 1st on the 1. the Ascension, by Tintoretto, In the sa- cristy are three fine works of Giov, Bellini : sl Virgin and Child and two Angels ; a Madonna between St. John the Evangehst and St. Catherine ; and a third between St. Jerome and St. Francis. The island of la Giudecca^ on which this church stands, was originally called Spinalonga : it re- ceived its present name when the Jews obtained permission to settle on it. Ch. of San Bocco (see p. 421). Ch. of San Salvatore, near the Ponte di Eialto, commenced in 1506, and com- pleted by Tullio Lombardo and Sanso- vino about 1534 ; the heavy fa9ade was added at a much later period (1663) by Sardi. " The inside has a nave and side recesses, or, as Moschini has it, a nave with three transepts, the farthest of which is longer than the others ; each intersection is covered with a little dome, and each dome is crowned with a small lantern. The piers which sepa- rate these transepts are perforated in both directions with a small arch. The lights are kept high, and the general effect is very good. Where there is a range of lower arches opening into the nave, surmounted by a continued cor- nice, the simple vault forms by far the finest finish; but in a case like this, where the side- arches are as high as the nave, the succession of domes is possibly superior, at least the upper and lower parts seem perfectly suited to each other." — TToods. Beyond the first altar on the rt. is a monument of A.ndrea Dolfin and his wife, by Giulio dal Moro (1602). The second altar, and the statue of the Madonna and Child, are by Campagna, Then comes the splendid monument of the Doge Francesco Yenier (died 1556), by Sansovino, executed in his 80th year, but exhibiting no mark of decaying powers. The same remark cannot be applied to the Annunciation by Titian^ painted by him when he was nearly 90 years of age, and which is placed at the altar, designed by Sansovino^ which comes after this monument. It is said that this is the painting on the margin of which the artist wrote, " Titianus fecit y fecit '^^ in order to silence the critic who asserted that no one would beUeve that it was painted by him. In the rt.-hand transept in the centre of a Corinthian portico, flanked by tombs of 2 cardinals, is the monu- ment of Catherine Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus ; the bas-relief on it represents her delivering up her crown to the Doge Barberigo. It was by showing her portrait to the young Lusignan that her uncle Andrea Corner, then in exile at Cyprus, excited first the pas- sion of the prince. Lusignan was then Archbishop of Nicosia, and, being ille- gitimate, without pretensions to the throne ; but the protection of the Sol- dan of Egypt, the support of the repubhc, and the favour of the Pope (Pius v.), a strange combination, enabled him to win the crown. Ca- therine was solemnly adopted as the daughter of the republic, and given, with a rich dowry, to the archbishop, who had ascended the throne as King James Lusignan II., but died within two years after his marriage. A post- humous child was the fruit of this union, who, proclaimed as James III., died an infant in 1475; and the repubhc, as the grandfather of the mi- nor, claiming his inheritance, the daughter of Yenice was forced to ab- dicate, her dear mother, the repubhc, obtaining the sovereignty. This took place in 1489, when, abandoning her Venetian Prov. Route 31. — Venice : ChurcJies. 419 kingdom, she retired to the castle at Asolo with the empty title of Queen, which she retained until her deatli, surrounded by a diminutive court, of wliich the celebrated Pietro Bembo, afterwards CarcUnal, formed a part (see p. 34:8) . Over the high altar is the Trans- figuration by Titian^ also a work of his dechning years ; behind this is a pala of embossed silver, with the Trans- figuration in the centre, executed in 1290, a very remarkable specimen of Venetian goldsmith work of the period. In the chapel on the 1. of the high altar is a very fine painting by Giovanni Bellini of Our Lord at Emmaus ; in the 1. transept are tombs of the Corna- ros, called Corners in their native city, and between it and the entrance to the ch. the monuments of the doges Griro- lamo and Lorenzo Priuli, in black mar- ble, after the designs of Cesare Franco, with statues of their patron saints, by Giulio del Moro (1559, 156V). Ch. of Gli Scalzi, close to the Ely. Stat., built in 1680, the pride of the Venetians for its richness. LongJiena was the architect. It abounds in rare and rich marbles, statues, bas-reliefs, and in gilding. Its principal treasure is the beautiful picture behind the high altar — a Maclonna and Cliild, by Giovanni Bellini. There are several sta- tues in bad taste ; the best are 6 Sibyls by Montuoriy on each side of the choir. Ch. of San Sehastiano^ near the Ca- nale della Giudecca, was built by F. Castiglione of Cremona (1506), except the facade, wliich is attributed to San- sovino (1548). It is the burial-place of Baolo Veronese. Tor the inscription to his memory might be substituted the well-known epitaph of Wren, for the church contains some of the best pro- ductions in his first manner. The roof is almost covered with his paintings, of which the principal subjects arc taken from the Book of Esther, the three com- partments representing Esther before Ahasuerus, her Coronation, and the Triumph of Mordecai over Haman. Commencing on the rt., at tlie 1st altar is a St. Nicolas, painted by Titianin his 86th year ; at the 2nd a Madonna by P. Veronese ; at the 4th the two Maries by the same. The fine monument to Bishop Podocataro is by Sansovino (1556). The Capella Maggiore is en- tirely painted by P. Veronese, viz. the picture over the altar, of the Virgin and four Saints, the Martyrdom of S. Se- bastian on the rt., and of SS. Marcus and Marcellinus on the 1. The doors of the organ are also by him ; near the latter is his bust by Bozzetti, with a most inflated inscription ; and beneath, a sepulchral slab covering his grave, upon which is inscribed the day of his death (May 14, 1588). The roof of the sacristy has a fine series of frescoes of the Coronation of the Virgin, and the four Evangelists. The Baptism in the Jordan, at the 3rd altar on the 1., is also by P. Veronese. Ch. of San Stefano. One of the finest churches in the Pointed style at Venice ; it is situated in the Campo of the same name, at a short distance from the Piazza di S. Marco. It was built by the Augustinian friars at the end of the 13th centy . (1294-1320) . The fine portal, so rich in ornament, is attri- buted to the Dalle Massegne. The interior consists of a nave and 2 aisles, with a fine w^ooden roof, and contains numerous sepulcliral monuments. Of these, that of Jacopo Suriano, a phy- sician of the 16th centy., in the good cinquecento style, deserves to be no- ticed. In the centre of the ch. is the slab tomb of Doge Morosini, surnamed il Peleponnesiaco (ob. 1694). There are some good paintings in the sa- cristy : Christ washing the Feet of the Apostles, the Baptist with St. Jerome, and a Last Supper, by Jacopo Tintoretto ; the Virgin and Cliild with St. Roch, by Balma Vecchio ; and the Marriage of St. Catherine, by Basaiti. The adjoining cloister, now converted into military stores, was erected in 1532 : in it is the sarcophagus of Andrea Contarini, Doge in 1367. It was during his reign that the Venetians recovered tlieir supremacy over the Genoese by the victory of Chioggia 420 Eoute 31. — Venice : Churches, Sect. IV. (1380). Francesco, the last of the Car- raras, was buried also here, but nothing remains to show his resting-place. The Ch. de^ Tolentiniy near thai of I Frari, *' is perhaps one of the best works of Scamozzi. The front is a handsome portico of six Corin- thian columns, but the leaves of the capital are uncut — perhaps they have never been finished; and an open- ing in the middle of the pediment is disagreeable. The inside consists of a nave with three chapels on each side, a transept with a dome at the intersec- tion, and a choir somewhat narrower than the nave." — Woods. The de- sign of the fagade was, however, altered by Andrea Tirali, by whom the build- ing was completed after the death of Scamozzi. In the first chapel on the rt. are two pictures on the side walls, by il FadovaninOy representing actions of St. Andrea AveUino. And on the side walls of the 3rd chapel are Herod and Herodias, and the Beheading of John the Baptist, by Bonifazio. On the 1. hand in the principal chapel is a monument to Patriarch Morosini (died 1678) , by Farodiy a pupil of Bernini. Ch. of San Trovaso^ or more properly San Gervasio e San Brotasio : a design of the Palladian school, built in 1583. There are many pictures. In the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament is a rich- sculp- tured altarpiece in the style of the Be- naissance, probably by Lombardi. The Crucifixion in the chapel, on rt. of the high altar is by Domenieo Tintoretto ; the Temptation of St. Anthony, in a chapel on the 1., the Last Supper, and the Wasliing of the Feet of the Apostles, in that of the Sacrament, both by Jacojpo Tintoretto, Ch. of San Zaccaria. This church is in a remarkable transition style, built between 1456 and 1515, by Antonio di Marco — Gothic in the choir, and semi-Byzantine in the nave. The con- tinuation of the aisle round the great altar in the form of a five-sided tri- bune, with cu'cular arches below and pointed ones above, is remarkable. The pointed arches are very beautiful. The western front seems to belong to the latter date, or perhaps has been added still later, but the rest of the building is in a sort of pointed style The side aisles are very lofty, the clerestory windows very minute, so that tliis mode of arrangement seems to have been preserved to the last period of pointed architecture. The statue of the patron saint over the entrance is by A. Vittoria, A fine picture of the Yirgin and Child, and four Saints, by Giovanni Bellini^ stands over the 2nd altar on 1. It was taken to Paris, transferred from panel to canvas, has sufiered, and is badlj restored, especially in the upper part of the Virgin and Angels. In 3rd chapel is the Birth of St. John the Baptist, by Tintoretto ; and the Virgin sur- rounded by the Apostles, by Balma Vecchio. Another painting by Gio- vanni Bellini is the Circumcision, within the choir. The three altars in the side chapel of S. Terasio are richly decorated with wood-carvings and paintings, and are remarkably valuable specimens of early Venetian art. The frescoes on the semi- dome, painted in 1442, are probably by Jacopo Bellini, one of the few remaining works of the father of Gentile and Giovanni. The 3 Anconas in compartments were painted by Giovanni and Antonio da Murano (1443), the carvings by Ludo- vico da Friuli. In the old ch. of S. Zaccaria were interred the 8 doges of Venice who lived between 836 and 1172 ; in the present one are the monuments of N. Sanudo by Leopardi, and of the sculptor Alessandro Vittoria (1595). San Lazaro, the Armenian convent, stands on its own island, and beyond the precincts of the city. It was founded in 1717 by the Abbot Mechitar. The ch. and the conventual buildings are mo- dels of neatness and good order. Here, as is well known. Lord Byron amused himself by studying the Armenian lan- guage ; and he has borne full testimony to the merits of the worthy inmates. They have an excellent hbrary, with a great number of curious Oriental manu- Venetian Prov. Route 31. — Venice: Sciiok, 421 scripts ; and tlie convent may be re- garded as a centre of Armenian lite- ratm*c. They are enabled to print in 32 languages. Many important works, such as the translation of Eusebius, have been printed here, besides the greater portion of the liturgical and other religious books for the use of their widely dissemmated co-religionists. The Armenians are amongst the most respectable and opulent native mer- chants at Calcutta, and they contribute liberally to the support of this national institution, San Lazaro is imder the protection of Turkey, whose flag floated over it during the siege of 1849. The Scuole of Venice were institu- tions of a very peculiar nature, and of which the intent could scarcely be collected from then* name. They were associations, composed principally of laymen, but acting by authority of the Church, and they eflected most of the objects for which our modern bene- volent and charitable institutions are founded. They were " Blanket and Clothing Societies ;" "Societies for vi- siting the Poor in their ow^n Habita- tions ;" "Mendicity Societies;" and provided places for boys, and dowries for maidens, of whom more than 1500 are said to have been annually married by their aid. These religious confrater- nities, of which there were five, became very opulent by the private contribu- tions, gifts, and legacies which were bestowed upon them. The buildings in which they assembled are amongst the most remarkable monuments of ancient Venice; not of the government, but of the people ; for the foundations were in the strictest sense voluntary and private. Of these buildings, perhaps the Scuola di San Marco (which stands close to the church of ^^S*. Glovannie Faolo) is the most remarkable. The external decorations are singidarly elegant, Byzantine richness blending itself with classical architecture. Mar- tino Lomhardo has in this building so much surpassed his former pro- ductions, that it is conjectured lie vras assisted by Frate Francesco Colonna, the author of the 'Sogno di Polifilo,' a work in which a great number of very singular and beautiful designs are introduced ; and who lived in the ad- joining monastery. The present build- ing was erected soon after 1485, when a pre-existing one was destroyed by fire. The sculptures on the fa9ade are by B. Bon and TuUio Lombardo. There is much fine work in the in- terior, particularly in the carvings of the ceilings. The building is now a part of the great civil hospital, formed also out of the adjoining convent of the Dominicans. Scuola di San 'Rocco^ near the church of Santa Maria dei Frari. This was be- gun in 1517, and completed by Scar- fagnino (1550) . The principal front to- wards the " Campd'^ is by the latter. The fraternity, in 1560, became the patrons of Tintoretto^ who continued to paint here during 18 years. The lower Sala is a magnificent hall, the walls of which are covered with his paintings. The best are the Annunciation, and the Massacre of the Innocents. The others are the Adoration of the Magi, the Flight into Egypt, the Magdalene, Santa Maria Egizziaca, the Circumcision, and the As-sumption. The statue of the Patron Saint on the altar is by Campagna. On the staircase, the Visitation, also by Tintoretto; the Annunciation, by Titian. The upper Sala is also filled with paintings by Tintoretto ; of the nine, the Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes, the Last Supper, the Eesur- rection, may be particularly distin- guished for their richness of grouping and invention. The picture at the altar represents S. Bocco in glory, also by Tintoretto ; the statues at the side, St. John the Baptist and S. Sebastian, are by G. Camjyagna. Bound this hall are sculptures in wood ; those on the side opposite to the altar are by Francesco Fianta, and a certain Michael Angelo^ of Florence. The ceiling is very fine. The 7 compartments, which are all by Tintoretto, contain subjects from the Old Testament, as well as the works in cliiar'-oscuro on the sides. Over the 422 Route 31. — Venice : Accademia delle Belle Artu Sect. IV. doorway is the portrait of Tintoretto, painted by himself, when he was 66 years of age. In the Sala delV Alhergo, so called because the fraternity received their guests here, is the Crucifixion, considered to be liis chef-d^ceuvre, show- ing great powers of invention and com- position ; it is exceedingly injured : the other subjects in this room being Christ before Pilate, our Saviour on Mount Calvary, and the Crowning with Thorns. The paintings on the roof, of St. Koch in glory, as well as aU the others in this Sala, are by Tinto- retto. In the Cancelleria is an Ecce Homo, by Titian. The adjoining Ch. of San Rocco contains many paintings by Tintoretto. On rt.-hand side of the nave is the Pool of Bethesda. — In a cha- pel on rt. of high altar, Titian, our Lord dragged along by an executioner, much injured. In the chapel of the high altar, 4 large pictures of acts of charity of S. Rocco. This altar is from de- signs of Bartolommeo Bon, as well as the other architectural decorations of this chapel, a fine specimen of the 15 th centy. (1495), the only part of the older ch. remaining. On the 1. side of the nave, — Fordenone, St. Martm and St. Clmstopher. — Moschino, sta- tues of St. Sebastian and Pantaleone. Accademia delle Belle Arti (open every day from 12 to 3). The build- ing in which the Academy is located is the ancient Convent of la Carita^ and it was one of those upon which Palladio bestowed the greatest study ; we have besides the advantage of his own explanation of his design, he having published an account of it in his work on Architecture. He intended that the habitable portion of the convent should represent a Roman mansion, at least according to the idea which (Pompeii being then undiscovered) he was enabled to form of such structures : but it lias SKETCH OF THE GROUND-PLAN OF THE PINACOTECA AT VENICE. a. Entrance. I. Vestibule with Sculp- tures. I. Paintings of the 14th and 15th centuries. II. Hall of the Assumption of Titian. III. Hall of the Pictures from Sta. Maria del Orto. IV. Drawings of the Old Masters. V. VI. Pinacoteca Oonta- rini. VIL Wood Sculptures. VIII. liecent acquisitions. IX. Smaller Paintings of various schools. X. to XIV. Sale Palladiane. XV. XVI. XVn. Sale Nu- ove. Larger Paintings oftlje Venetian school. XVIII.-XX. Modern Pamt- ings of do. XXI. Paintings of the 18th century. "3:^^ ->- svo:' xr?*~ ^4^ .Wi m x:^ Ira 4J-.- 3E -£g-^lllii- , 1 S30X XK ss: The numbers in Pvoman capitals are those used iu the printed Catalogue, Ven. Prov. Eoute 31.-^ Venice : Accademia ; Paintings, 423 sustained many misfortunes. The greater part was burnt down in 1630, the only part of Palladio's edifice now standing being a well-propor- tioned square hall, formerly the sa- cristy of the ch., and now one of the drawmg schools. On the sup- pression of the convent, the buildings were for some time occupied as a barrack, but in 1807, Napoleon having decreed the formation of an academy of fine arts, they were arranged for that purpose. The Accademia consists of the several schools necessary for such an institution, which occupy the ground floor round the ancient cloister; and of the Pinacoteca^ consisting of a very extensive collection of pictures, chiefly of the Yenetian school, such as is not to be found elsewhere ; and though the present appropriation of the building was intended to preserve it from further degradation, still, to adapt it, several alterations were needed, by which what was left of the original plan and design has been much altered. The Finacoteca is situated on the first floor, in a suc- cession of fine rooms, to which con- siderable additions have been made of late years. The catalogue published in 1865 gives merely the name of the painter, the subject, the locahty where the painting originally stood and its dimensions. The following are the objects most worthy of the visitor's attention, in the order in which he can best go over the collection. The entrance is by tlie great court, and on the first-floor, at the extremity of a short corridor, is the Vestibule (5 of plan), wliich contains some spe- cimens of sculpture, a group of Chiron, a statue of Adonis, and a bust of Titian, all by Rinaldi of Bome. Be- yond here we enter The Sala delle Antiche Pitture (I), containing a very interesting series of the early Venetian school. 1. Bar- tolommeo Vivarini (1464), the Vir- gin and Saints. — 2. Michele Mattel da Bologna (about 1469), an Ancona of many compartments, — 3 . Michele Gi- amhono (died about 1450), the Saviour and four Saints. — 5. Lorenzo Veneziano and Francesco Bissolo^ dated 1357, another altarpiece in several compart- ments, the Annunciation in the centre. — 4, 6, 7. Marco Basaiti, St. James, St. Anthony, and a dead Saviour. — 8. Gio- vanni and Antonio da Murano (1440), Coronation of the Virgin. — 9. B. Viva- rini, St. Mary Magdalen. — 11 and 13. Vincenzo Catena, St. Augustin and St. Jerome. Tlie influence of Vivarini on this artist's style is perceptible. — 10, 15, 17-20. Alvise Vivarini, the younger, St. Matthew and other Saints. This artist flourished at the close of the 15th centy. He has much of the feehng and colouring of Carpaccio. — • 14 and 21. B. Vivarini, Sta. Barbara and Sta. Chiara. — 16. An altarpiece of many compartments : the central, repre- senting the Coronation of the Virgin, is by Stefano Pievano, with the date 1380. The 8 histories of our Saviour around, by unknown artists, are very primitive and curious. — 22. Giaco- mello del More, the Virgin and two Saints, signed and dated 1436; chiefly interesting as a specimen of a rare artist. — 23. Gio. di Alemagna and Antonio da Murano, the Virgin en- throned, under a canopy supported by Angels, with the four Doctors of the Church by her side. This large picture, dated 1446, is curious. The roof of this hall is an elaborate speci- men of very beautiful painted and gilt wood-carving of the Renaissance, From here opens the Sala delVAssunta (II.) , containing the chefs-d'oeuvres of the Venetian school : — No. 24. Titian : The Assumption of the Virgin, somewhat blackened by candles and incense ; it stood over an altar in the church of the Frari. Count Cicognara, suspecting its value, had himself drawn up to it, cleaned a small portion, and, having obtained it from the friars of the church, in exchange for a new and bright paint- ing, placed it in this gallery. " In this picture Titian has employed the whole power of his palette, from its brightest and purest light to its richest and deepest tone. The composition divides itself into 3 compartments of unequal 424 JRoute 31. — Venice: Accademia; Paintings. Sect. IV. size ; the largest in the centre, where is the subject of it, the Assumption of the Virgin. Her action is grand and devout, her character maternal, the arrangement of her drapery such as to produce a full and fine form. It is a glorious work, its power of colour is immense : far beyond that even of any other picture of Titian."— PM%6^ i^.^. — 25. Tin- toretto^ Adam and Eve taking the for- bidden Fruit. — 26. Bonifacio^ St. Je- rome, St. Margaret. — 27. St. Mark. — 28. St. Bruno and St. Catherine.— 29. St. Barnabas and St. Silvester. These are pictures of great ability. — 30. An- drea Vicentino, St. Francis receiving the Stigmata, and other Saints — a dig- nified and excellent specimen of the master ; as also 31. Marco Basaiti; the Calling of the Sons of Zebedee. — 32. Tintoretto^ the Virgin and Child, with 3 Senators. — 33. Titian^ the De- position ; Titian's last work, when he w^as 98 years of age, finished by Palma Giovane. — 34. Bonifacio^ SS. Antonio and Mauro. — 35. Titian, the Visitation of St. Elizabeth ; Titian's earliest work, said to have been begun when he was only 14 years of age. We have thus here, almost juxtaposed, the works of the great chief of the Venetian school at an interval of more than 80 years ; a circumstance unique in the history of painting. — 36. Tintoretto, the Resur- rection. — 37. Giorgione, St. Mark stay- ing miraculously the Tempest, one of the principal works of imagination of this painter. (See Kugler's Handhooh of Painting.) The subject of this pictm'e is a story so characteristic of the superstitious age in which it was believed, and so often referred to in the works of art at Venice, that we shall give it here. " In the year 1341 an inundation of many days' conti- nuance had raised the water three cubits higher than it had ever before been seen in Venice, and during a stormy night, while the flood appeared to be still increasing, a poor old fisher- man sought what refuge he could find by mooring his crazy bark close to the Biva di San Marco. The storm was yet raging, when a person approached and ofiered him a good fare if he would but ferry him over to San Giorgio Maggiore. ' Who,' said the fisherman, ' can reach San Giorgio on such a night as this ? Heaven forbid that I should try ! ' But as the stranger ear- nestly persisted in his request and pro- mised to guard him from harm, he at last consented. The passenger landed, and, having desired the boatman to wait a Httle, returned with a compa- nion, and ordered him to row to San Nicolo di Lido. The astonished fisher- man again refused, till he was pre- vailed upon by a further assurance of safety and excellent pay. At San Nicolo they picked up a third person, and then instructed the boatman to proceed to the Two Castles at Lido. Though the waves ran fearfully high, the old man by this time had become accustomed to them, and, moreover there was something about his mys- terious crew which either silenced his fears or diverted them from the tempest to his companions. Scarcely had they gained the strait when they saw a galley rather flying than sailing along the Adriatic, manned (if we may so say) with devils, who seemed hurrying, with fierce and threatening gestures, to sink Venice in the deep. The sea, which had hitherto been furiously agitated, in a moment became unrufiled, and the strangers, crossing themselves, conjured the fiends to depart. At the word the demoniacal galley vanished, and the three passengers were quietly landed at the spots at which each respectively had been taken up. The boatman, it seems, was not quite easy about his fare, and, before parting, he implied pretty clearly that the sight of this miracle, after all, would be but bad pay. ' You are right, my friend,' said the first passenger ; ' go to the Doge and the Procuratoi^i, and assure them that, but for us three, Venice would have been drowned. I am St. Mark, my two comrades are St. Greorge and St. Nicholas. Desire the magistrates to pay you; and add, that all this trouble has arisen from a schoolmaster at San Felice, who fii'st bargained with Ve:)^. PiiOV. Eoute S\, — Venice: Accademia ; Paintings, 425 the Devil for his soiil, and then hanged himself in despau*.' The fishennan, who seems to liave had all his wits about him, answered that he might tell that story, but he much doubted whe- ther he should be beheved : upon which St. Mark pulled from his finger a gold ring, worth about five ducats, saying, *Show tliem this ring, and bid tliem look for it in my Treasury, whence it wiU be found missing.' On the morrow the fisherman did as he was told. (See P. Bordone's picture in the first Sala Kuova, 'No. 493.) The ring was disco- vered to be absent from its usual cus- tody, and the fortunate boatman not only received his fare, but an annual pension to boot. Moreover, a solemn procession and thanksgiving were ap- pointed in gratitude to the three holy corpses which had rescued from such calamity the land afibrding them burial." — Ven. Hist. — 38. Giovanni JBellini, the Holy Family, with 6 Saints, and 3 An- gels playing on musical instruments. • — 39, 40, Falma Giovane^ the Vision of 12,000, and the White Horse of the Revelations. — 41. Contarini, portrait of a Doge. — 42. Bonifacio^ SS. Dominick and James. — 43. Falma Giovane, S. Francis. — 44. Paul Veronese ^ the Propliet Ezekiel, in chiar'-oscuro. — 45. Tintoretto^ the Yenetian Slave deHvered by St. Mark, one of the wonders of this school of painting. All is motion, animation, and energy. It is certainly one of the finest works of Tintoretto. — 46. Paolo Ve- ronese^ Isaiah, in chiar'-oscuro. — 47. Padovanino, the Marriage at Cana ; considered his best work. — 48. id., a Madonna and Saints. — 49 and 50. Bonifacio, St. Francis of Assisi and St. Paul, and the Woman taken in Adul- tery. — 53. Tintoretto the Yirgin with Saints, and the portrait of a Doge. — 54. Bonifacio, the Judgment of Solomon. — 55. P. Veronese, the Yirgin above, sur- rounded by Saints, amongst whom St. Dominick distributing roses, in allu- sion to the Rosary, and numerous por- traits, probably of members of the con- fraternity for whom it was painted, was, Jil^e man^ of its neighbours, carried off to Paris. — 56. Carlo CaliaH, our Lord bearing his Cross. — 57. Bonifacio, the Adoration of the Magi. — 59. Palma Vecchio, the Assumption of the Yirgin. (The vipper part of the pictixre is un- finished.) — 61. Leandro Bassano, the Increduhty of St. Thomas. — 62. P. Veronese, Santa Cristina. — 63. Tinto- retto, tlie Death of Abel. — 71. Gian Bellini, Virgin and Child. — 72. Palma VeccMo, St. Stephen and other Saints. —74. Cima da Conegliano, like those lost from the church of La Madonna del Orta (see p. 399). The fine gilt and carved roof of the Sala del Assunta is a splendid specimen, supposed to have been executed by Fra Cheruhino Ottali in the 15th centy. The painting of St. Nicholas, Bishop of Mira, in the centre, is by P. Veronese, and the four Prophets by D. Campagnola, the Pro- digal Son and the figures of Faith, Truth, and Justice, by Jacojpo TintO' retto. Round the cornice are portraits of the most celebrated artists of the Yenetian school, by pupils of the Academy. Sala No. IIL — A small room, in which have been placed several paint- ings once in the ch. of La Madonna del Orto (now under repair), but which will, in all probability, not be returned there. There is also here a modern bust of Griovanni Bellini. The pictures are fine specimens of the Yenetian School. 66. Salviati, Bap- tism in the Jordan. — 67. Fainieri, the Yirgin in Prayer, and 69, the Angel of the Annunciation. — 7l. Giovanni Bellini, Yirgin and Saints. — 72. Palma VeccMo, St. Stephen and 4 Saints. — 73. Tintoretto, Miracle of St. Agnes, one of his most pleasing works. — 74. Cima da Conegliano, St. John the Baptist, with 4 Saints. — 75. Tintoretto, St. Mark.— The Prodigal Son and the Cardinal Virtues, by J. Tintoretto, formed the vault of the Hall of the 3 Inquisitors of State in the Ducal Palace. The modern bust of Giovanni BelHni is modern, after a not very authentic likeness of the great Yenetian painter. Returning through the h^ll of the 426 Route 31.' — Venice: Accadeniia; Paintings, Sect. lY. . Ancient Paintings to the vestibule, we enter The Pinacoteca Contarini (Y., VI.) ? a numerous collection of second-rate pictures, in two rooms, formed by a pubhc- spirited nobleman, Count Griro- lamo Contarini, and bequeathed by him in 1843 to the academy. It consists of more than 270 specimens arranged in 2 rooms. The best are, 94. Giov. Bellini^ a Madonna. — 96. Marziali, the Supper of Emmaus. — 117. Franc. JBessolo, a Dead Christ. — 125. Cima da Conegliano, a Madonna with Saints. — 132. Boccac- cino da Cremona^ a Yirgin and Child with Saints, a specimen of a rare master. In the inner room are a series of small allegorical paintings, 234-238, by Griov. Bellini, which were originally encased in a piece of furnitiu'e. In a corridor (VII.) opening out of the P. Contarini is a collection of sculptures in wood, chiefly ebony, executed by Brustolon, for the patrician Pietro Venier, &c. In the Corridors (IX.) leading to the Sale Nuove. — 295. Tintoretto, portrait of Antonio CapeUo. — 300. Schidone, a Deposition. — 301. Titian, head of an old woman, cailled Titian's Mother. — 313. Giov. Bellini, a Madonna and Child. — 319. TiYz'aT?-, portraits of Jacopo Soranzo; and 350, of Priamo da Lezze. — '354. B. Vivarini, Our Lord Enthroned. — 356. Antonello da Messina, the Virgin read- ing ; signed. This picture, having been in the Ducal Palace, appears authentic. About the middle of the 15th centy. this artist repaired to the Netherlands, and there, as it is said, learned Van Eyck's secret in the preparation and use of oil-colours, which knowledge he spread amongst the Venetians. Out of the first of these corridors opens a small room (VIII.), in which have been placed several small paintings, 253- 275, from the Manfrini collection. Opening out of this corridor is a series of five rooms, called the Sale Balladiane (X.-XIV.), containing a very miscellaneous collection of smaller pictures, for the most part second- rate. — KooM ^ 456, Cima da Cone- gliano^ Our Saviour and two Saints j 441, 464, Tintoretto, two portraits; 443, Jaeojpo Bellini, a Madonna ; 452, Garofalo, Virgin in Glory with four Saints below. — Room 2 contains the collection bequeathed to the Academy by Countess Renier ; 429, Cima da Conegliano, a Dead Christ ; 430, V, Carpaccio, a Virgin and Child ; 435, Bissolo, a Madoima with St. John ; 436, Giov. Bellini, the Virgin with S. Catherine and the Magdalen. — Room ^. 394, Semeticolo, N., the Virgin enthroned (1351) ; 410, Jacopo Avanzi, a Deposition (1367) ; 404, A. Busati, St. Paul and 2 Saints ; 407, Jacopo da Valesa, a Virgin and Child with Saints, signed and dated 1309, of a very rare master. — Room '*. 387, B. Vivarini, Virgin and Child ; 373, 374, 375, 389, 391, 393, Lorenzo Veneziano, an Annunciation (1371), and 5 Saints, which once formed a single Ancona ; 381, Andrea da Murano, S. Sebastian ; 382, Gentile da Fahriano, a Madonna. — RooM^. 372, Giov.Bellini,'Y\vgi\-iVkndi Child ; 366, Titian, St. John in the Desert, a noble and vigorously drawn figure, in his best manner and colour- ing ; 367, Bassano, a Holy Family ; 368, Bonifacio, the Adoration of the Magi ; 360, Caterina Vigri, Sta, Ur- sula and Virgins, signed and dated 1456. B. Montagna, Virgin enthroned and Saints. We now reach the Sale Nuove, form- ing a series of large halls at the S. side of the building. Brima Sala Nuova (XV.). — 467. A. Vicentino, the Deposition. — 470. P. Veronese, and 471. — Carlo Caliari, Angels bearing the instruments of our Lord's Passion. — 471, 474, P. Veronese, the same subjects. — 475. D. Tintoretto, the Crowning with Thorns. — 472. (rior^iowe, portrait of a Venetian noble. — 476. Contarini, a similar sub- ject; and, 480. the same, by Bas- sano. — 481. Padovanino, the De- scent of the Holy G-host.— 488. Car- paccio, the Presentation in the Temple. — 487. Titian, the Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple, very fine. — 492. Paris Bordone^ the J'ishcrman present^ Ven. Prov. Eoute 31. — Venice: Accademia ; Paintings, 427 ing tlie Miraculous Ring to the Doge. — 495. Hocco Morconi, Descent from the Cross. — 496. P. Veronese^ SS. Luke and John.— 483, 499, 500, 504, 505. Soyii- facioy a fine series of the master. — 498. Tintoretto, the Assiunption. — 504. id., the Virgin, with portraits of 4 Senators. — 507. Tintoretto, 2 Senators present- ing the Cross to the Vii'gin in Gloiy, with SS. Cosmo and Damiano. — 520. Bonifacio, tlie Virgin, with several Saints ; and, 524, the Adoration of the Magi. — 513. Faolo Eredi, a large Last Supper, in the style of P. Vero- nese. — 514. Tintoretto, the Crucifixion, with the 3 Marys; and, 518, Venice, with portraits of 6 Senators. — 519. Paolo Veronese, the Virgin with St. Jo- seph and St. John the Baptist ; and 521. Santa Chnstina forced to worship the Pagan idols. The painting on the roof of Santa Elena discovering the Cross is by a. B. Tiepolo, Seconda Sala Nuova (XVI.).— 527» Seh. Florigerio, 4 Saints, and the Madonna, with St. Augustin and Sta. Monaca. — 528. Bonato Veneziano, the Crucifixion. — 529. Gentile Bellini, the recovery of the cross dropped into the Canal near San Lorenzo. This is a very interesting picture, and a worthy pendant to the procession, No. 555, for the nmnerous portraits, and variety of costume, which it exliibits; it was painted in 1500. Amongst other portraits is that of Caterina Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus, a portly dame in black, on the 1. of the painting, the only personage wearmg a crown. — 530, 531. Cima da Conegliano, Justice and Tem- perance. — 532. Martino da Udine, the Annunciation, a picture of tranquil and noble beauty, by this rare master. — 534. Basaiti, Christ in the Garden. — 537, 539, 542, 544, 546, 549, 552, 559, 560. V. Carpaccio; this series of paintings represent the history of St. Ursula and the 11,000 virgins, and w^ere formerly in the Scuola of the Saint at Venice. — 535. Bartolommeo Montagna, our Lord between St. Eoch and St. Sebastian. — 543. — Gentile Bellini, a Sanctuary. — 545, Lazzaro Sehastiani (a scholar of Carpaccio), the miraculous Appearance of the Holy Cross to Antonio Riccio. — 547. P. Veronese, our Saviour in the house of Levi; an immense picture, only second in size to the Marriage of Cana, in the Louvre, covering one end of the hall. — 548. Giovanni Mansueti, mi- racle of the Holy Cross. Like Sehastia- ni, Mansueti was a scholar of Carpac- cio, and his works also chiefly relate to the miracles supposed to have been wrought by means of the Cross. — 555. Gentile Bellini, procession and Miraculous Ciu'e in the Piazza di San Marco ; very interesting, as show- ing the state of the piazza in 1491, and exhibiting the costume of the period in many animated figures. It bears the author's name, Gentilis Bellini Veneti Equitis, Ceucis Amoee incensus. Opus 1491. — 35. Vivarini, the Virgin and Child, with 4 Samts. — 564. Carpaccio, a miracle per- formed by the Patriarch of Grado, healing a Demoniac by means of the rehcs of the Cross. There is a curious view of the old Ponte di Rialto in this picture. — 356. Florigero, Madonna with SS. Augustine and Monica. — 562, Martino da Udine, a Madonna; and 563, an Annunciation. From the ex- tremity of this hall, on rt., opens the third of the Sale Nuove (XVII.). 560- 568. J), Tintoretto, portraits of Ve- netian Senators. — 571. Luca Giordano, Descent from the Cross. — 574, Becca- ruzzi, St. Erancis receiving the Stig- mata. — 580. Benedetto Diana, a rare master, the Virgin enthroned, sur- rounded by Saints. — 581 and 583. B. and A. Vivarini, the Angel of the Annunciation and the Virgin. — 582. Cima da Conegliano, a large painting of the Virgin enthroned, surrounded by numerous Saints. — 595 and 598. Matteo Ingoli of Ravenna, the Last Supper and the Assumption of the Virgin. — 586. Bonifacio, figures of SS. Benedict and Sebastian. — 584. Mansueti, four Saints. — 597. Charles Lehrun, the Magdalen at the feet of our Lord : this painting was given by the French Government, in 1815, to Venice, in exchange for the Last Supper, by P, 428 Route Zl.-^ Venice; Accademia : Theatres, Sect. IV, Veronese, now in the Louvre, a most inadequate compensation for so great a loss. Beyond here are 3 rooms of modern paintings— the first (XVIII. and XX.) chiefly works of pupils of the Academy ; the central one (XIX.) paintings of the last centy. The Bossi collection belonging to this Academy contains many and beau- tiful drawings by Uapliael^ Michael A.ngelOj Leonardo da Vinci. They are kept in a room (IV.) near the Sala dell' Asunta, open to the public on Tues, and Sat. from 12 to 3 o'clock. A catalogue of them is sold by the porter. There are also here some excellent relievos in bronze, 4 alto-relievos, pro- bably by Ricci of Padua. The Sala delle Radunanze Accade- miche, or room in which the Academy holds its meetings, is a fine apart- ment, with 20 small paintings of Angels, Evangelical Symbols, &c., by Titian. Over the chair of the presi- dent is a vase of porphyry, containing the right hand of Canova, with his chisel above. The Pinacoteca Manfredini is depo- sited in the buildings of the Ecclesias- tical Seminary attached to the ch. of Santa Maria delta Salute (see p. 416), to which establishment it was be- queathed by its late owner. It contains amongst other pictures a portrait of Pietro Aretino by Titian; a head of St. John the Baptist by A. Durer ; a Holy Family by Z. da Vinci, bearing the arms of the Sforza Pallavicinis ; an Annunciation by Daniele da Vol- terra ; a Vu-gin and Child by Fra Sar- toloinmeo, and a Deposition by Pietro Perugino (?) ; some fine sketches by Cor- reggio for the frescoes of the Duomo of Parma. The cloister of the Seminary is filled with monuments and inscrip- tions saved from demohshed and dese- crated churches, amongst which the sepulchral mm of Doge F. Dandolo, of the 14th centy., and the gravestone of the painter Griacomello del Fiore (1433) . The kevs of the gates of Padua, brought away when it was seized by the Venetians, are hung upon one of the walls. Theatres. The principal theatre is la Fenice, originally built in 1791, but burned down in 1836. It is handsome and of a good size. It is open during the carnival, i. e. dui'ing the early months of winter, and sometimes in the spring, for the performance of operas and ballets. The ofiice for places is, during the day, situated about the middle of the Procuratie Vecchie. The price of admission is 1 florin. The next theatre after the Fenice is the Teatro Gallo, so called from the name of its proprietor, also known by the name of Teatro San Benedetto, In autumn, winter, and spring, a com- pany, usually second-rate, perform operas at this theatre. When the Fenice is shut the performances are rather better. The Teatro Apollo, a San Luca^ is generally open for the drama. The Teatro San Samuele is rarely open. It is a pretty theatre, well adapted for hearing. Opera bufias are performed hei-e. The Teatro Malihran is near the Rialto. It is opened during the day, evening, or night. It is large. The amusements consist of rope-dancing, sword-swallowing, and such-like per- formances. The Giardino Publico, or Public Promenade, occupying the triangular space at the E, extremity of Venice, was laid out by the French, but has been extended and improved of late years. Its distance causes it to be little resorted to. The views from it over the Lido and the Islands are fine. At the N. extremity of the city is the Botanic Garden, or Orto Botanico, in the conventual gardens of the sup- pressed convent of San Griobbe. Artesian Wells — Supply of water. — Several Artesian wells have been sunk at Venice (in 1847), at the expense of the municipality, and under the dn^ec- Vi dalena . . 5 Ponte Lago Scuro 113 Ferrara . . .120 Bologna . . .164 106 164 kil. = 102 miles. 4 trains daily in 4^ hrs. On leaving Padua, the Rly. crosses the plain to gain the northern ex- tremity of the group of Euganean hills, near which is situated 10 kil. Abano Stat. There are two very fair inns here, especially during the summer season, the Albergo deir Ven'Etian Prov. Roide 33. — Venice to Bologna. 437 Orologio and le Due Torri, Trattoria Megiorata. Its baths have retained their celebrity from the time of the Romans; medals and other remains of antiquity are found here in abund- ance : the place is also remarkable as the birthplace of Livy, of Valerius Flaccus, and of Pietro d'Abano, in M'hom the Paduans take almost equal pride. '* This village is about 3 m. from the Euganean Hills ; and the houses occupied by those who resort to this place for the benefit of its muds and waters are yet nearer, all situated in an extensive plain : from this rises a sort of natural tumulus, of a circular form, of about 15 ft. high, and above 100 in circumference. It appears to be of the same sort of composition as the neighbouring hills, consisting of materials indicative of a volcanic origin. From this mount burst two or three copious streams of hot water, varying from 77^ to 185^ Fahr.: they contain a minute portion of muriates of soda, lime, and magnesia, and of sulphate of lime ; the gaseous emanations with which they are accompanied consisting of azote and carbonic acid. A part of them serves to fill the baths and pits for heating the muds; a part loses itself in cuts and wet ditches, amidst the meadows; and a part turns the wheel of a mill, which whirls amidst volumes of smoke. The meadows, which are of surpris- ing fertility, extend about 2 m. with- out interruption, when they are broken by an insulated hill, entirely covered with trees, brushwood, and vines ; from the foot of this issue smoking streams, and a little farther is another single hill, from whose roots issue hot mineral waters. The structure of the hills, and their character and position show evidently that they are outliers of the volcanic group of the Euganeans. There are other springs of the same nature, and having all of them more or less medicinal virtues ; which pro- cured apparently for this place the ancient name of Aponon, derived from a privative, and -novos, pain. *' It is celebrated for its muds, which are taken out of its hot basins, and applied either generally or partially, as the case of the patient may demand. These are thrown by after having been used, and, at the conclusion of the season, returned to the hot fountain, where they are left till the ensuing spring, that they may impregnate them- selves anew with the mineral virtues which these are supposed to contain. The most obvious of these, to an igno- rant man, are salt and sulphur. The muds are, on being taken out, intensely hot, and must be kneaded and stirred some time before they can be borne. When applied, an operation which very much resembles the taking a cast, they retain their heat without much sensible diminution for three quarters of an hour, having the effect of a slight ruhe- facient on the aff"ected part, and pro- ducing a profuse perspiration from the whole body ; a disposition which con- tinues more particularly in the part to which they have been applied, when un- checked by cold. Hence heat is con- sidered as so essentially seconding their operations, that this watering-place, or rather mudding-place, is usually nearly deserted by the end of August; though there are some who continue to wallow on through the whole of September. " The baths, though sometimes con- sidered as a remedy in themselves, are most generally held to be mere auxi- liaries to the muds, and usually but serve as a prologue and interlude to the dirty performance which forms the subject of the preceding paragraph, they being supposed to open the pores and dispose the skin to greater suscepti- bility." — Boses Italy. Since Mr. Kose visited the place it has been much improved. A range of handsome bath-buildings has been erected, with all needful accommoda- tions for visitors ; a good restaurateur's and cafe. There are 16 baths well fitted up, besides those for the poor. The bathing season commences in July. The thermal springs in this district are very numerous. Besides those at Abano, there are others at Ceneda, Monte GotardOf Sant' Elena, San Pie- tro Montagnone, , Monte Grotto, San Bartolomeo, Monte Ortone, San Daniels in Monte. The Rly. continues under the hills to 438 Route 33, — Venice to Bologna, Sect. IV. 3 kil. Montegrotto Stat.y where there are seen several hot, gazeous emersions, and a bath-house on rt. of station. Beyond this, after traversing a tunnel, on the rt. is the Castle of Catajo. 7 kil. Battaglia Stat,, situated in an amphitheatre of hills, at some distance from village, with good hotels — the Alhergo di Battaglia^ close to the high road, upon the canal of Monselice ; and La Mezza Luna : it has some thermal springs, which are now in great vogue and much frequented in July and Aug. Opposite to Battaglia, and on the top of a hill, stands the picturesque castle of Monticelliy and farther on, after leaving the town, and nearer the road, the castle. of Catajo, which was be- queathed by its former proprietor, the Marquis Obizzo (aVenetian nobleman), to the Duke of Modena. The old part of the castle may always be seen ; it contains some frescoes, said to be by Faul Veronese. The designs are possibly by him, but the frescoes have been executed by his scholars. The museum, which is extensive, contains a collec- tion of old armour and warlike weapons, ill-arranged; early Christian inscrip- tions ; and some other curious antiques and relics. About 2 m. E. of Battaglia is Car- rara di S. Stefano, once celebrated for its Benedictine Monastery founded in 1027. Several of the family of the Carraras were buried in the ch. Marsilio, who died in 1330, has a marble monument, with reliefs of the Virgin, SS. Antony and Benedict. On a pilaster upon the S. wall of this edifice is an inscription in Lom- bard characters relative to the death of Ubertino Carrara in 1365, in which the family is designated by the name of Papafava, lords of Carrara and Padua. The bell-tower bears the date of 1293. The monastery was suppressed in 1777, and sold by the Venetian government to the Erizzo family. 7 kil. Monselice Stat., situated in a de- pression between 2 pointed peaks (Inn : Grand Hotel), a town surmounted by a i^occa, or castle, of the 13th century, even more feudal in aspect than Este. Pop. 8000. It stands upon a noble rock. It has long ranges of curtain walls with stepped battlements, studded with bold square crenellated towers. They as- cend and descend the hill-sides, in- termingled with the richest vegeta- tion. Monselice was a place of im- portance in the middle ages: in the 10th century it became a feudal possession of the House of Este, even before they had acquired the town whose name they subsequently adopted (1165). The hill of the Rocca, from which the town derives its name — mountain of silex, or more properly of paving-stone — is formed of a variety of trachyte or volcanic porphyry, known by the local designation of masegna, which is extensively quarried for building purposes. The palace on the hill belonging to the Duodo family, the church, and the 7 detached chapels in imitation of the 7 basilicas of Rome, were built from the designs oiScamozzi. There were some paintings by Palma Giovane in the church. In the Villa Cromer is preserved one of Canova's earliest works, a statue of Esculapius. All the country through which the road passes is exceedingly rich, but intersected by muddy canals. Mon- selice or Battaglia will be the best point to diverge from the rly. to visit Arqua. The distance from either is about 5 m. Carriages will be found at the stations ; the charge to go and return ought not to exceed 14 fr.; the most picturesque road will be from Battaglia, passing at the foot of the hill of Monticelli. Excursion to Arqua. This place is beautifully situated amongst the Eu- ganean hills; here Petrarch retired and died. The house shown was probably his habitation, for as far back as 1650 the tradition was firmly believed : the paintings on the walls, of which the subjects are taken from his poems, date from the preceding centy. ; and there is nothing in the architecture (Petrarch died in 1374) inconsistent with the story. It is inhabited by a farmer, and is somewhat dilapidated. Here is Petrarch's chair, Petrarch's pretended cat, or *' miceia,"' as he used to call her (and as all cats are still called in Italy), is here, stuffed, and in a small niche. The Venetian Peov. Boute 33.— Venice to Trieste. 439 tomb of the Laureate, of the same form as that called Antenor's at Padua, like it stands on 4 stumpy pillars in the ch.-yard. It is of red Verona marble, and was raised by Francesco di Brossano, the husband of Francesca, one of the illegitimate children of the poet. The inscription is by Petrarch himself. Above is a bronze bust, placed there in 1G77. The Pozzo di Petrarca, a walled cistern, is said to have been built at his expense for the use of the town. In the village church are two paintings attributed to Palma Giovane and Paul Veronese. Near Arqua is a spring, called (from the late viceroy) the Fante del Vicere Rainierl : its waters are strongly sulphureous. Very good figs and white wine (for this country at least) are grown near Arqua, and may be had at the little osteria in the town. From Monselice the rly. follows the line of the carriage-road, along the S. extremity of the Euganean hills, and canal to 5 kil. Este Stat., 3 m. from the town of that name; omnibus (in half an hour) meets every train stopping here. Este. — {Inn: La Speranza, a small quiet house, clean and good.) Beau- tifully situated at the foot of the Monte Murale or Monte Cero, which forms the S. extremity of the Euganean group of hills. The '' Rocca,'' or Castle of Este, is a fine and almost imaltered building, erected in 1343 by Ubertino Carrara, and repaired by the Scaligers during their temporary pos- session of it ; a noble dungeon tower, with frowning embrasures and battle- ments, and standing at least upon the site of the original fortress, the seat of the family of Este, so celebrated in liistory. Alberto Azzo (born 996) must be considered as the more im- mediate founder of the house here on the death of the Emperor Henry III. The ancestry of Alberto may be traced in history to Bonifazio Duke or Mar- quis of Tuscany, in 811. Poetry can'ies it much higher. The magician, in the vision of tlie enchanted sliiekl, enables Einaldo to behold Caius Attius as his remote ancestor : — *' Mostragli Caio allor, ch' a strane genti Va prima in preda il gia inclinato Impero, Prendere il fren de' popoli volenti, E farsi d* Este il Principe primiero ; E a lui ricoverarsi i men potenti Vicini, a cui Rettor facea mestiero, Poscia, quando ripassi il varco noto, A gli inviti d' Honorio il fero Goto." Orlando Furioso. Alberto Azzo, Marquis of Este, was twice married. His first wife was Cunegunda, a princess of the Suabian line, by whom he had Gruelph Duke of Bavaria (succeeded 1071), and from whom all the branches of the House of Brunswick are descended. Fulco I., Marquis of Italy and Lord of Este, the son of Alberto Azzo, by his second wife Garisenda, daughter of Herbert Count of Maine, was the founder of the Italian branch, from which the dukes of Ferrara and Mo- dena descended; the male line of which became extinct at the end of the last century. The deposed Duke of Modena, who is of the House of Haps- burg- Lorraine, represents that of Este in the female line, his grandmother, Maria Beatrix, having been the last descendant of the Italian branch. Este continued in the possession of the descendants of Alberto until 1294, when it fell an easy conquest to the Carraras. Successively a dependency of Padua and of the Verona Scaligers, it passed to Venice in 1405, retaining its local government and municipal institutions. The town of Este contains more than 10,000 Inhab. It has a Lombard aspect ; most of the houses are sup- ported by picturesque arches. The exterior of the church of San Martina bears the appearance of high Roman- esque antiquity, but the interior is modernised ; the campanile, in the same style, inclines as much as the leaning tower of Pisa. In that of Sta. Maria delle Grazie, signed and dated 1509, in excellent preservation, is a Madonna by Ciina da Conegliano, A fine belfry tower, with forked battle- ments, and a Dondi clock (see Padua) of the largest size, add to the antique 440 Eoute 84.— Venice to Trieste, Sect. TV. adornments of this ][nedia3val town. The bills all the way from beyond Este, sometimes nearer to, and some- times more distant from the road, are very picturesque. Rly. projected from Este to Leg- nago, to connect Florence, Bologna, and Central Italy generally, with the great Venetian military quadrilateral of Mantua, Verona, Peschiera, and Leg- nago ; also forming a more direct route into the Tyrol and S. Germany. From here, continuing across the plain and the Arrona Canal, to 9 kil. Stanghella Stat. 2 m. before reaching the Adige at Boara, from which there is a good view over the plain of Rovigo, the river being here at a higher level than that town : soon after crossing the Adige, pass a strong circular fort on I. erected by the Austrians, astride on the highway. The country is flat and marshy, but with the most luxuriant vegetation. A low marshy plain leads from the Adige to 7 kil. Rovigo Stat., at a short dis- tance from the town {Inns : La Corona Ferrea, in the N. suburb), a small active and cheerful city. Pop. about 10,000. The cathedral is now the seat of the Bishop of Adria. That ancient city lives in the name of the Adriatic: its site, at a short distance from Rovigo, can scarcely be traced, and the excavations have not been productive of any objects of great interest. TYio: Duomo of Rovigo is a plain building, with a few second- rate pictures. In the Piazza Mag- giore is a column on which once stood the Lion of St. Mark, and a marble pedestal for the Gonfalone of the Re- public. The chapel of the Madonna, a circular edifice, at the extremity of the city, contains a host of votive offerings and paintings, the latter prin- cipally by the inferior artists of the Venetian school. At the Municipality is the Galleria Municipale, which con- tains several paintings from desecrated religious edifices, from the Bishop's Pa- lace, &c., a few of the early Venetian chool. In the W. part of the town re 2 mediseval square? towers, both out of the perpendicular, like those at Bologna. Cross a marshy tract to 7 kil. Arqua Stat., not to be con- founded with Petrachi Arqua, in the midst of marsh land. 3 kil. Polesella Stat, the town extends for a considerable distance along the N. bank of the Po. 3. kil. Paviole Stat, 8 kil. Santa Maria Maddalena Stat., on the N. bank of the Po, formerly the Austrian frontier station. From here extends the long wooden rly. bridge, which crosses the river to 7 kil. Ponte Lago Scuro, Stat., a place of considerable commercial activity, as the principal port on the lower Po. The remainder of this route, and the City of Ferrara, are described under Route 58, and from Ferrara to Bologna under Route 59. Bologna (Route 61,) ROUTE 34. VENICE TO TRIESTE, BY TREVISO, PORDENONE, CASARSA, AND UDINE. BY RAIL. 214 kil. = KIL. 120 . 132 . 140 I 147 . 153 . 164 . 180 185 133 Eng. m. KIL Passian Scbia- vonesca Udine . . Bntrio . . S. Giovanni Manzano Cormons Gorizia . Sagrado . Konchi . Monfalcone. . 190 Nabresina . . 202 Trieste . . .214 Steamers of the Austrian Lloyds Company three times a week, onTues., Thurs., and Sat., at midnight ; some performing the voyage in 6 hrs. Those of the Peirano Danaro Italian Com- pany on Sat., at 5 a.m. Railway trains leave Venice for Trieste twice a day, byway of Treviso, employing 8| hrs. The line of rail- Mestre . 8 Mogliano . 17 Preganziol . 21 Treviso . . 26 Lancenigo . 33 Spresiano . 47 Piave . . 47 Conegliano . 50 Pianzano . 63 Sacile . . 70 Pordenone . 83 Casarsa . . 90 Codroipo . 109 Ventetian Prov. Route 34, — • Venice to Trieste. 441 road senaratps from that to Padua I 5 m. bevond Monte Belluna, the. e Piave, passing by antry of the last Doge n, in whose villa at tS) are some frescoes P. Veronese. Oniijo, 'rom here the val- 3 becomes narrow and til reaching Sanzan, suddenly to the 1., it ,vine of the Lorma m. to debouch into re. II Vapore ; Aquila town of 4000 Inhab., ence of the Stizzone rients, in a rich agri- , at the foot of the e RhtCtian Alps. Re- ddle-age fortifications n in the upper town, point rose the Bocca^ ch a tall square tower iding a fine view over sy of the Piave and ;. In the Piazza is fagade attributed to e pillar on which once of St. Mark. In a is the Monte di Pieta, ful establishments for ^es, so general all over (, were first established certain Frate Bernar- of the town. Feltre le to Gen. Clarke, one ficers ; indeed, some of St celebrated marshals •re ducal titles derived is part of Italy. There Feltre to Primolano ces to Bassano, by Pri- valley of Brenta, and Belluno, and Treviso. "rom Feltre to Belluno .., the road running LiiiwLign nx^ trxviC valley of the Piave, the hills on the N. of which are very picturesque. At Bribano, 5 m. from Belluno, it crosses the Cordevole. Belluno {Inns: Leone d'Oro; Due Torri, good), capital of the province of the same name, situated at the junction of the Ardo with the Piave, on a pro- montory, round the foot of which the latter river flows, whose gravelly bed u 3 rcucutiu : mere is a. ciaiij puuiio \.uu- veyance, and carriages may be hired : the distance is about 25 m. ; the road crossing the plain of the Trevisan mark as far as the town of Monte Bellun'i^ on the right of which, and extending to the Piave, is the forest called the Bosco Montello, which furnished timber for the Venetian navy during the time of the republic. 440 Route 34.— Venice to Tneste, Sect. IV. medicoval wa adornments of this The hills all the Este, sometimes nearei times more distant froi very picturesque. Rly. projected from nago, to connect Floi and Central Italy gen(* great Venetian militai of Mantua, Verona, Pes( nago 5 also forming a m into the Tyrol and S. G From here, continu plain and the Arrona C 9 kil. Stanghella Sta reaching the Adige i ■which there is a good plain of Rovigo, the r at a higher level than t after crossing the A strong circular fort oi the Austrians, astride o The country is flat ar with the most luxurianl low marshy plain leads to 7 kil. Rovigo Stat., i tance from the town {1 Ferrea, in the N. sul active and cheerful cit^ 10,000. The cathedra seat of the Bishop of ancient city lives in the Adriatic: its sit distance from Rovigc be traced, and the ex( not been productive c of great interest. The^Z is a plain building, witl rate pictures. In the giore is a column on wl the Lion of St. Mark, pedestal for the Gonfal public. The chapel oj a circular edifice, at th the city, contains a bust ui vuuve offerings and paintings, the latter prin- cipally by the inferior artists of the Venetian school. At the Municipality is the Galleria Manicipale, which con- tains several paintings from desecrated religious edifices, from the Bishop's Pa- lace, &c., a few of the early Venetian chool. In the W. part of the town ye 2 mediseval square towers, both town. I out of the nerDendicnlar. lilcA thnsA yy%u[^-VuL Steamers of the Austrian Lloyds Company three times a week, onTues., Thurs., and Sat., at midnight ; some performing the voyage in 6 hrs. Those of the Peirano Danaro Italian Com- pany on Sat., at 5 A.3r. Railway trains leave Venice for Trieste twice a day, byway of Treviso, employing 8j hrs. The line of rail- VE^^ETUX Prov. Eoute 34. — • Venice to Trieste. 441 road separates from that to Padua (Rte. 31) at Mestre, and from thence runs nearly N. through a very rich country bv 8 kil. ffcstrc Stat. 9 kil. Jfoijliano Stat. * 4 kil. Pre.janziol Stat. 15 kil. Treviso Stat. : the ancient Tarvisium {Inns : Quattro Corone, the best ; Albergo Keale), a city of 18,G0O Inhab., on the Sile, a tributary of the Piave. Treviso was formerly capital of the Trevisan Mark, as it still is of the province of the same name, and a Bishop's see ; it is situated in a very fertile territory, and possesses manufactures of cloth, paper, &c. The Duomo, or cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, though un- finished, is a fine building, with its five cupolas. It contains a chapel covered with good frescoes, by Forde- none. There is an altarpiece of the Annunciation, by Titian, and a curious picture representing a procession of the Trevisan authorities, by Domenici, a native artist. The Gothic church of San Nicolo contains paintings by Gian Bellini and Paris Bordone, and a some- what celebrated one attributed by Cavalcaselle to Sebastian del Piomho. The painting in fresco over the tomb of the Senator Onigo (1490), is pro- bably by Gioi\ Bellini. In the Monte di Pietti there is a celebrated picture by Giorgione, the Entombment of Christ, said to have been his last work, and even to have been finished by Titian. The Palazzo Publico and Theatre are fine buildings ; the Villa Manfrini has ex- tensive gardens. Treviso to Feltre and Belluno. [Treviso will be the nearest point on the rly. to Feltre from which Belluno can be most conveniently reached : there is a daily public con- veyance, and carriages may be hired : the distance is about 25 m. ; the road crossing the plain of the Trevisan mark as far as the town of Monte Bellun^i, on the right of which, and extending to the Piave, is the forest called the Bosco Montello, which furnished timber for the Venetian navy during the time of the republic. 5 m. beyond Monte Belluna, the road reaches the Piave, passing by Cornuda, the country of the last Doge of Venice, Manin, in whose villa at Mese (see p. 348) are some frescoes attributed to P. Veronese. Onigo, FerreSy Sec. From here the val- ley of the Piave becomes narrow and picturesque until reaching Sanzan, where, turning suddenly to the 1., it ascends the ravine of the Lorma torrent, after 5 m. to debouch into the plain of Feltre. Feltre {Inns : II Vapore ; Aquila d'Oro, fair), a town of 4000 Inhab., near the confluence of the Stizzone and Cormeda torrents, in a rich agri- cultural district, at the foot of the last slopes of the Rhactian Alps. Re- mains of its middle-age fortifications may still be seen in the upper town. On the highest point rose the Rocca, or Castle, of which a tall square tower remains, commanding a fine view over the upper valley of the Piave and Alps of Cadore. In the Piazza is the Town Hall^ fa9ade attributed to Palladio, and the pillar on which once stood the Lion of St. Mark. In a street adjoining is the Monte di Pieta, Those very useful establishments for lending on pledges, so general all over France and Italy, were first established at Feltre by a certain Frate Bernar- dino, a native of the town. Feltre gave a ducal title to Gen. Clarke, one of Napoleon's officers ; indeed, some of Buonaparte's most celebrated marshals and ministers bore ducal titles derived from places in this part of Italy. There is a road from Feltre to Primolano (12 m.). Diligences to Bassano, by Pri- molano, in the valley of Brenta, and to Roveredo, to Belluno, and Treviso. The distance from Feltre to Belluno is 17 J Eng. m., the road running through the wide valley of the Piave, the hills on the N. of which are very picturesque. At Bribano, 5 m. from Belluno, it crosses the Cordevole. Belluno {Inns: Leone d'Oro ; Due Torri, good), capital of the province of the same name, situated at the junction of the Ardo with the Piave, on a pro- montory, round the foot of which the latter river flows, whose gravelly bed u 3 442 Route 34. — Treviso, Sect. IV. is sometimes § m. broad and nearly bare in summer, with, just water enough to float down timber-rafts, with cargoes of turpentine, pitch, &c., from the mountains. It contains a population of 10,000 souls. In the Cathedral, built by Palladio, are pictures by Bassano and Palma Giovane (neither first-rate), and a bust of Pope Gregory XVI., a native of the place. The Palazzo della Ragione is a fair specimen of Venetian archi- tecture of the 16th centy. In front of the Gothic Church of St. Stephen is a Roman sarcophagus of the 4th centy., belonging to a C. Hostilius Sertorianus, with reliefs of achace ; it was found in the vicinity. The town is supplied with water by an aqueduct 6 m. long. The country is here composed of tertiary greensand and sandstone deeply indented by the torrents and rivers. E. of the city the Ardo flows through a deep ravine into the Piave, so that Belluno is flanked on 2 sides by a precipitous hill. The greensand in itself forms a varied and picturesque country, even independently of the loftier mountains which are seen be- yond ; in short, the neighbourhood of Belluno, especially N. of the town, is very beautiful. An excursion may be made N. towards Bolzano {a small mountain hamlet), to see Colontola, a spot said to have been sketched by Titian, and introduced into one of his pictures. It lies below the road in the hollow of the Ardo, and is nothing but a mill and a few houses ; but the com- bination of scenery is extremely fine. This excursion may be made in a char, although not very conveniently. A good road has been made from Belluno to Agordo and its Copper Mines, 18 m. (see Handbook of South Germany and Tyrol, Rte. 222 a), striking across the hills in a direct line to Mas ; about Mas the tertiary sand is covered by the fall of the neigh- bouring calcareous mountains. At the village Agordo, 2 m. beyond the Mines, is a tolerable Inn. Near Mas, about 8 m. from Belluno, is the large suppressed Cistercian mo- nastery of Veda no. The road to it passes through huge fragments of the fallen mountain. 3 m. from Belluno, at Capo de Ponte, the Piave is crossed by a fine wooden bridge of 1 arch ; here the road joins the highway from the Ampezzo Pass, by which the traveller can descend into the plains of Italy by the Lago di Santa Croce, Ceneda, Conegliano, Tre- viso, &c. The high road from Verona to Vienna, by the Ampezzo and Pontebba routes, joins that from Venice at Treviso ; having crossed the great plain of the Trevigiano from Vicenza, through Cittadella on the Brenta, and Castel- franco, the country of Giorgione. Treviso to Trieste. Three roads lead from Treviso to- wards Trieste, all joining again near Codroipo and Palma Nova. The first through Oderzo, a large village, the ancient Opitergium. Motta, a town of 5000 Inhab., on the Livenza, which is from this point navigable. Scarpa, the celebrated ana- tomical professor of Pavia, was a native of this place : his collections of ancient armour and pictures are preserved here. San VitOy 2 m. from theTagliamento, a flourishing town of 5000 Inhab., with linen and silk manufactories : there are some good pictures by Pompeo Amalteo and his master Licinio in the choir of the hospital church. The second road to Trieste, a con- tinuation of the former from Motta, is more direct still ; it passes through Portoguaro, Latisana on the Taglia- mento, S, Giorgio, and Ontagnano, 2 m. from Palma Nova, where it falls into the post-road from Udine. The third or upper road from Tre- viso, nearly parallel to the Ely., runs along the foot of the last declivities of the sub-alpine hills, and is more pic- turesque and interesting.] Leaving Treviso, the Ely. runs nearly due N. through the plain to the Piave, passing by 6 kil. Lancenigo Stat, 8 kil. Spresiano Stat., 3 m. beyond which we cross the Piave, on a bridge of several arches. 7 kil. Piave Stat., on the river-side ; Venetian Prov, Route 34. — VenicQ to Trieste, 443 . from here the line follows the foot of the hills to 8 kil. ConcijUano Stat. (Inn : La Posta, good). Pop. 6500. The town is sur- mounted by an extensive castle, that gives a fine appearance to it as it is approached. There are frescoes by Fordenone, now nearly obliterated, on the outside of several private houses in the town ; in the Duomo an altarpiece of Cima da Couegliano, a native of the place. On leaving the town we pass under a triumphal arch, erected in honour of the late Emperor Francis I. of Austria. 3 m. farther the great road by Belluno, the valley of Cadore, and the Ampezzo pass to Inspruck, branches off to the 1. (See Handbook of S, Germany, Rte. 228,) Leaving Couegli- ano, the Rly. follows the line of the old post-road to 8 kil. Pianzano . Stat., to the 1. of which opens the valley of Serravalle, through which passes the road to Bel- luno and Ampezzo, and 6 m. farther on reaches 7 kil. Sacile Stat. {Inn : La Posta), a town of 3700 Inhab., on the Livenza. It retains some traces of its former im- portance, being surrounded by a good wall and ditch ; the palace of the Po- desta is a considerable building. 13 kil. Pordenone Stat, {Inn: La Posta, fair) contains 4000 Inhab., and is sup- posed to occupy the site of the Portus Naonis of the Romans. It contains large paper-works on the Noncello tor- rent. Giovanni Antonio Licinio Regillo, called II Pordenone, was born here in 1483 ; there is a picture of St. Christo- pher by him in the principal church. Between Pordenone and Casarsa the Rly. crosses several torrents descending from the Alps. 15 kil. Casarsa Stat, is about 4 m. from the Tagliamento. 11 kil. Codroipo Stat. (Inn: II Impera- tore). [Here the two carriage-roads, now seldom followed, from Treviso join. 3 m. before reaching this place the Tagliamento is crossed upon a wooden bridge, 1130 yards, or nearly two-thirds of a m. long, the bed of the river being here upwards of a m. wide, and a real " Sea of Stones," showing the changeable nature of the river's course. From near the Ponte della Delizia, on the 1. bank of the Taglia- mento, a road branches off to the 1., and, following it, leads to S. Daniele, Osoppo, a fortified town, and Venzone, and by the Val del Ferro to Pontehha, and thence to Tarvis and Villach, and by the Valley of the Drave to Vienna. (See Handbook of South Germany, Rte. 250.) From Codroipo the post-road makes a considerable detour to Udine, but a more direct one passes across the plain to Palma Nova, a strongly- fortified town, 3 m. W. of the river Torre. The road from Codroipo to Udine passes through Basagliapenta and Campo Formio, or more properly Campo Formido, where the treaty be- tween General Bonaparte and the Em- peror of Austria was signed in October 1797, by which Venice was so shame- fully sacrificed by the French general to Austria — one of the deepest blots in the political history of Napoleon. The mean house in which this disastrous treaty was concluded is still pointed out; the leaden inkstand, from which it was signed, is preserved, as a melan- choly record of the Republic's fall, in the Museo Correr at Venice.] Return- ing to the rly. 11 kil. Passian Schiavonesco Stat. 11 J kil. Udine S.tat, {Inn: L'Europa, good ; La Stella), a city of 20,000 Inhab., once a place of much importance as the capital of Friuli. It is still surrounded by its ancient walls. In the midst is the old town, also walled, and surrounded by a ditch. In the centre is the castle, on a height, said to have been founded by Attila. Udine presents so many features of resemblance in its build- ings to the mother city, to whose rule it was so long subjected, as to merit the name of Venice in miniature : it has its grand square, its palazzo publico — a fine building on arches in imitation of the Doge's palace — the two columns, the winged lion of St. Mark,* and the campanile with two figures to strike the hours. The cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin, in the Corinthian style, is the most interesting object in the town. The campanile dates from the 12th century. In the bishop's pa- lace is a ceilinsr painted hv G^'ornvm da 444 Eoute 34:,-'^ Venice to Trieste. Sect. IV, JJdine, whose house still exists, and is remarkable for being adorned within and without with stucco ornaments, probably by himself. The castle on the height is now used as a prison ; the view from here over the plains of Friuli is very fine. The Campo Santo is well deserving of a visit. [10 m. E. of Udine is Cividale, the ancient Forum Julii, interesting from its numerous Roman antiquities: its Duomo, or collegiate church, founded in 750, is a remarkable mediaeval edi- fice. The archives contain some va- luable ancient MSS. (See Eandhook of South Germany y Rte. 250)]. On leaving Udine the rly. suddenly changes its direction parallel to the course of the Torre torrent, which it crosses before reaching 8 kil. Butrio Stat, and 4 m. farther 7 kil. S. Giovanni Manzano Stat. The Judrio torrent is crossed 2 m. before reaching 6 kil. Cormons Stat.^ from here the line running at the base of the hills, gradually approaching the Isonzo, the ancient Sontius, the hypothetical boundary of Italy, which it crosses 1 m. before reaching the 11 kil. Gorizia Stat, (see Handbook of Southern Germany, Rte. 250), following the course of the Isonzo to 13 kil. Sagrado Stat., 2 n\. from Gra- disca, where the line turns abruptly to the S. 5 kil. Ronchi Stat. 5 kil. MonfaJcone Stat. From here the Rly. runs near the Adriatic through S. Giovanni on the Timayo, the ancient Timavus, J m. from the coast, the most northern point of the Adriatic, by Duino and Nahresina to Trieste. On leaving Nabresina, the Rly, runs more inland than the post-road. [An excursion may be made to Aquileja from Ronchi or Monfalcone, 10| m. distant. From both these stations the best road is by Pieris, beyond which it crosses the Sdobba, to S. Valentino, which is about 3 m. from Aquileja, Aquileja was in ancient times one of the most important provincial cities of Rome, and one of its strongest frontier fortresses, the chief bulwark of Italy towards the N.E. Augustus often resided in it, and its population was then estimated at 100,000 souls. It was taken by Attila in 452, and reduced to ashes by that ferocious barbarian, who caused it to be levelled to the ground. It contains at present about 1500 Inhab. Its climate is pestilential at certain seasons from the marshes in the midst of which it is situated. The Duomo, built between 1019-42, is a splendid architectural monument of the middle ages, historically remark- able as the metropolitan church of the Patriarch of Aquileja, whose stone throne, in which he was installed, is still preserved behind the altar. The crypt is very curious. Among the remains of antiquity are fragments of the palace of the Patriarch Poppo, who built the cathedral or campanile and a detached tower. The Roman remains in the neighbourhood are very abund- ant ; excavations are going on, and a local museum contains much of what has been discovered.] 12 kil. Trieste {Handbook S. Germanu, Rte. 252). Inns all dear: Hotel de Ville, on the Quay, in a good situa- tion ; Victoria Hotel ; Hotel de France ; Locanda Grande ; H6tel Daniele, ( 445 ) SECTION V. DUCHIES OF PAEMA AND PIACENZA. Government, — 2. Xature of the Country, Inhabitants, Frodiice, Trade, — > 3. Money. Routes. ROrTE PAGE 40. Fiacenza to Parma, by Bor' go San Donino. — Rail . 446 41. Cremona to Parma, by Casal Mag glove and Color no . 471 (TuEiN to PiACENZA, by Ales* sandria. See Rte. 7.) ROUTE 42. Parma to Mantua, by Guas- talla 43. Parma to Sarzana, by For- nuovo and Fontremoli (Milan to Piacenza, Rte. 24.) 472 473 PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. § 1. Government. Tliese two dismemberments of ancient Lombardy, ceded to Leo X. by Francesco Sforza in 1515, were bestowed by Pope Paul III, in 1545, on lus bastard son Pier Luigi Farnese ; they remained in the possession of his descendants until the extinction of the male line of that celebrated family in 1731, when they devolyed to the Spanish branch of the House of Bourbon, in virtue of the inheritance of EHzabeth Farnese, the daughter of the last duke, Ranuccio III., who had married Phihp V., and who left heu*s. This transfer was confirmed by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle. At the breaking out of the war which followed the French Revolution these duchies were governed by Ferdinand the grandson of Elizabeth, and were invaded by Bonaparte in 1796. After that period they may be considered as dependencies of France; they formed the Departments of the Trebbia and Taro of the Kingdom of Italy. On the fall of Napoleon, Parma and Piacenza, to which Guastalla had been annexed, were made over at the congress of Vienna to the Empress Maria Louisa for her life, to revert on her death to the descendants of the last duke of the House of Bourbon, to whom in the mean time the duchy of Lucca had been given in compensation. On the demise of Maria Louisa, in December, 1847, Charles II. of Boiu'bon became Duke of Parma and Piacenza ; but abdicated in 1849 in favour of his son, Ferdinand III., who was assassinated in 1854, leaving several children. Tlie eldest, Robert, being under age, the government of the duchies was assumed by his mother, as Regent, during his minority. In the event of failure of male issue in the reigning family, the duchy of Parma Proper was to have passed to Austria, and that of Piacenza to the King of Sardinia ; when the events of 1859 upset the stipulations made at the Congress of Vienna, the provinces of Piacenza and Parma annexing themselves by an almost unanimous vote to the kingdom of Northern Italy, under the rul« of Victor Emanuel. The sovereignty of Parma from 1815 to 1859 embraced the duchy of that name, the duchy of Piacenza, and the district of Pontremoli, ceded by Tuscany on the sovereign of the latter coming into possession of the duchy of Lucca. GuastaUa had been transferred to the Duke of Modena on the death of Maria Louisa. 446 Route 40. — Piacenza to Parma. Sect. V. § 2. Nature of the Countey. — Inhabitants. — Peoduce. — Teade. The territory comprised in the two duchies of Parma and Piacenza, now forming the provinces of the same name of the kingdom of Italy, has a population of 474,600 souls. It extends from the Po on the N. to near the Mediterranean on the S. The portion of its territory in the plain between the Apennines and the Po is fertile, and watered by numerous rivers descending from these mountains. The districts in the Apennines are arid, rocky, and thinly peopled, and so inadequate to maintain their scanty population, that many of the inhabitants annually leave their homes to seek employment during the agricultural season in Lombardy and Tuscany, returning with the money thus earned to maintain themselves and their famihes ; others, for a much longer period, as itinerant musicians, &c. Most of those Italians with organs, &c., whom we see about our streets, come from the districts of Parma and Modena bordering on the Apennines. When- ever we find this migration in search of employment abroad, the people may be considered as not in a favourable condition in their own country. This applies equally to the Irish and the Westphalian peasantry ; the one leaves liis country for England, the other for the Netherlands, during harvest-time. The trade of Parma is limited to the importation, tln-ough Trieste and Genoa, of colonial produce for its consumption, British and other foreign manufactures, and articles of luxury. The exports consist chiefly of cattle, hemp, and cheese, some silk, and a good deal of wine to tlie neighbouring provinces of Lombardy and Piedmont. § 3. Money. The coin struck by Maria Louisa is very beautiful, and is similar in value to the French and Italian. The old lira of Parma now rarely met with ; 97 of these are equivalent to 20 francs ; but in ordinary dealings 5 lire of Parma are reckoned as a franc, a lira being thus 20 centimes. EOUTES. EOUTE 40. PIACENZA TO PAEMA, BY BOEQO SAN DONINO. — EAIL. Ponte Nura Fiorenzuola Alseno KIL. 12 I 21 28 I Borgo S. Donino Castel Guelfo . Parma KIL. . 35 . 45 . 57 57 kil. == 35A m. Piacenza. Inns : the Europa, in the Piazza del Duomo, kept by Crosa, fair, but modest ; Albergo d' Italia. As the hotels are indiiferent, and as everything can be seen in a short time, the less the traveller has to do with them the better. By arriving early he will have ample time to visit everytliing of interest in the town, and continue by an evening train to where he wiU find more comfortable quarters, at Genoa, Turin, or Milan, or at Parma. There are two good cafes in and near the Piazza dei Cavalli, where he can procure refreshment. The following itinerary will embrace everything worthy of notice at Piacenza, in the order they can be most easily visited — supposing the traveller to start from the railway station, where hackney coaches may be hired at the rate of 2 fr. an hour : — The Duomo ^ Ch. of San Francesco, Piazza dei Cavalli. Parma. Route 40. — Piacenza, 447 and Palazzo del Commune; Ch. of Sanf Antonino and Theaire ; Cli. of SanV Agostino; the public Promenade ; the Fortress; Santa Maria dl Cam- j>agna : returnuig to the Rly. Stat, by the Ch. of S. Slsto, the Cltadella, the Porta di Fagosta leading to the Po, the Bridge of Boats over the latter, &c. Mail ways and Diligences. — There is a rlwy. communication between Tmun and Piacenza, corresponding with Genoa, Milan, the Lago Maggiore, &c., and with Bologna, by Parma and Mo- dena, trains four times a-day ; to Milan 4 trains daily in 1^ to If hrs, A dili- gence daily to Cremona in 3 hrs. early in the morning, so as to enable j)ersons to reach Brescia by another on the same evening. JPiacenza la FedeUy founded by the Boian Gauls, received from the Romans the name of Placentia^ on account of its pleasing situation. It was one of the places which revived the soonest after the invasions of the northern barbarians, and obtained an early share of the commerce which in the middle ages enriched the Italian towns. In the 10th century the fair of Placentia was one of the principal marts of the peninsula. This city now contams about 32,000 Inhab., a number which is not by any means m proportion to the ground it occupies. The most busy part of Piacenza is in the neighbom^hood of the JPiazza de' CavalliySO called fi'omthe bronze statues of the two dukes, Alessandro and Ma- nuccio Farnese, which stand in front of the Palazzo del Commune. "This build- ing was erected by the merchants of Piacenza, and was begun in 1281. The lower part is of red and white lime- stone, and in the pointed style ; the upper half is in the round style, and of brick, with terra-cotta mouldings and ornaments. This building is one of the many instances which prove that the Saracenic style, finding its way through Yenice, had in the middle ages a partial influence upon the architecture of Italy. The windows and the forked battlements of tliis building are in a Saracenic manner, and the Saracenic passion for variety appears in the dissimilarity of its parts, for the windows of the front are varied, and the two ends of the building are pm'posely made unlike each other. It is a noble building, in spite of its ano- malies and mixture of diflerent styles and materials." — G. KnigJit. The equestrian statues were designed by Francesco Mocchi, a scholar of Gio- vanni di Bologna, and cast by Mar cello ^ a Roman artist. They were decreed by the city on the occasion of the public entrance of Margherita Aldobrandini, the wife of Ranuccio, and were exe- cuted at its expense, at a cost of 44,107 Roman scudi. The statue of Ranuccio was erected in 1620, that of Alessandro in 1624. Ranuccio is in an attitude of command ; Alessandro is reining in. his steed. The rider has pulled up the horse; but the speed with which they have been proceeding is seen by the flutter of his drapery and the housings and mane all carried out by the wind. Both the statues seem wanting in that repose and simplicity which constitute the truly beautiful in art. These colossal statues, instead of being formed of several pieces, have been cast at one jet. The traveller here first becomes ac- quainted with the countenances of the Farnese family, whose elevation so deeply tarnishes the Papal tiara. Ales- sandro, who succeeded to his father Ottavio in 1586, is the " Prince of Parma " whose name was so familiar in England in the reign of Elizabetli, as spoken of in the famous old ballad on the Armada : — Their men were young, munition strong, And, to do us more harm a, They thought it meet to join their fleet All with the Prince of Parma, All with the Prince of Parma. He was bold and enterprising. Governor of the Low Countries, he served Spain wisely and prudently ; and, as a general, was less sanguinaiy than the other captains of his times. He died in 1592 at AiTas, in conse- quence of the wounds which he had 448 Route 40. — Piacenza : Duomo, Sect. V. received at the siege of Eouen, his services having been transferred to France for the purpose of assisting the party of the League. The very low re- liefs upon the pedestal represent the at- tempt to bui'n the flying bridge thrown over the Scheldt by Farnese during the siege of Antwerp (1585), and the interview with the envoys of Queen Elizabeth, near Ypres, to negotiate the peace (1591). Alessandro was suc- ceeded by his son Ranuccio. Grloomy, suspicious, covetous, and merciless, one of the first acts of his reign was to burn 9 women accused of witchcraft. Ranuccio was constantly in dread of the vengeance of the nobihty, whom he insulted and oppressed. A supposed conspiracy enabled him, in 1612, to wreak his vengeance upon them. On the 19th May the scaffold was raised before the windows of his palace; and Barbara San Yitale, Countess of Colorno, one of the most beautiful woman of her day, was brought forth, shown to the people, and be- headed ; she was followed by Pio Torelli — his head fell also; San Vitale, Marquis of Sala, succeeded, and four others of the principal families. The exe- cution lasted four hours, the duke looking on with savage delight. He wished to extirpate these families ; and we dare not repeat the treatment in- flicted upon the children of San Yitale. The son and nephew of Torelli escaped ; and the latter, taking refuge in Poland, and having married the heiress of the Poniatowski family, became the ancestor of the last King of that unhappy country. The JDuomo stands at the end of the long " Contrada dritta," which runs in a straight line from the Piazza. Though not of very remote date, having been consecrated by Pope Innocent II. in 1133, it is, excepting some additions in the 16th century, in the ancient Lombard style. The porches are cu- rious ; the central one dates from 1564. In the archivolt are sculp- tured various figures, emblematical of the heavenly bodies and elements ; amongst them are the twelve signs of the zodiac ; the sun and the moon ; stars, planets, and comets, and winds. The two lateral ones, of an earlier period, are ornamented with rude bas- reliefs of the Annunciation, the Yisita- tion, the Nativity, and Adoration of the Magi. The pillars that support these arches rest upon quaint crouching human figures, with a kind of saddle on which the columns rest, &c. ; and the whole exterior is full of curious details. A window in the apse is remarkable, the moulding of the archivolt standing out from the wall, with which it is connected by four grotesque heads. The Campanile^ about 200 ft. high, was erected in 1333, and consists of a square brick tower, with an open belfry on the summit : to a window in it is affixed an iron cage, like that at Man- tua, placed there in 1495 by Ludovico il Moro, to expose to public view persons guilty of sacrilege and trea- son. The interior of the ch. (360 ft. hi length, 210 wide between the tran- septs, and 125 high in the centre of the nave) is in a Lombard style, with wide- spreading arches rising from massive columns, with bold plain capi- tals : over the crown of each arch a statue is let into the wall, and on most of the pillars are small tablets, repre- senting workmen of various descrip- tions — a wheelwright, a carpenter, a smith, and many others, denoting the Crafts who contributed to the expense of erecting the building. The choir retains its stalls of rich carving by Gian Giacomo, a Grenoese (1471) ; massive, bossed choir-books ; and its twenty- four canons, who, with diminished means, still retain theu' station in the cathedral. At the intersection of the nave and transepts rises the octagonal cupola, surrounded both without and within by a gallery of Lombard arches. The paintings on it are of a supe- rior order. Six of the eight sides are painted in fresco by Guercino ; two, namely, the E. and N.E. compart- ments — supposing the church to stand exactly E. and W.— are by Morazzone, A nearer view of them may be obtained from the colonnade which runs round Parma. Route 40. — Piacenza : Duomo, 449 the top of the drum, but the ledge is rather narrow, and has no rail. The subjects are — four Prophets, four Sibyls, choirs of Angels, and Biblical subjects. These frescoes have been injured in a peculiar manner, — bu'ds getting into the dome have flown against and scratched them. " The Guercino frescoes are very remark- able for their great power in co- lom* and skill in execution of fresco on a large scale, and have less of the heaviness usually pervading the works of tliis master. At the great distance from which they must be seen from the floor of the cathedral, they are quite satisfactory, and fine specimens of interior decoration." — C. W. C. Lower down, on each side of the win- dows, are figures of Charity, Truth, Chastity, and Humihty, by Fraceschini. In the choir are frescoes by Agostino and Ludovico Caracei, full of academic power and skill, showing great know- ledge of the human form and much gi'andeur of contom*; the colom's are distemperUke, but in as perfect pre- servation as if hut just done. The Ascension of the Virgin, in the centre of the choir, as well as the Sibyls on either side, are by C. Frocaccini; the two large subjects of the Burial of the Virgin, and the Apostles discovering her tomb empty, on the side walls, are by Landi ; they replace the two pic- tures of the same subjects, now in the Pinacoteca at Parma, painted in 1609 by Lud. Caracci, and which had been carried off by the French to Paris in 1796. The Virgin surrounded by angels, on the vault of the apse, is a magnificent work of Lud. Caracci, in preservation and execution of its kind quite complete, and full of skill. The vault over the high altar is divided into four compartments: in one, the Virgin crowned by the Trinity is by C. Frocaccini ; the 3 others, represent- ing choirs of angels, and the souls of the Fathers of the Church in Hades, are by Jbud. Caracci — the figure of Moses in the latter is particularly worthy of notice ; the Nativity of the Virgin and the Salutation, on the arch of the organ galleiy, are by the same painter ; the Visitation, and the De^ scent of the Holy Spirit, on the op- posite side of the choir, are by C. Fro- caccini. The other paintings most worthy of notice in this cathedral are, St. Martin dividing his Garment with the Beggar, by Lud. Caracci, in the chapel on 1. of the choir ; in the 2nd chapel on the rt. is a strange painting, attributed to Andrea and Elisabetta Sirani, representing the 10,000 crucified Martyrs, who, ac- cording to the legend, consisted of an army of 9000 Roman soldiers miraculously converted to Christi- anity, and 1000 more troops sent against them, who followed their example, — an execution said to have occurred by the advice of Sapor, in the reign of Hadrian. Near the altar of Santa Lucia is a curious painting of the 13th centy., representing the Ma- donna and Child, by Bartolino da Fiacenza, some of whose works we shall see in the Baptistery at Parma. The Diptychus, over the great door of the church, in low relief, formerly occu- pied the place of Procaccini's Ascension of the Virgin, in the choir ; it was exe- cuted in 1479 by two artists, F. Gro- pallo for the painting, and Antonio Furlenghi for the sculpture, at the ex- pense of a member of the Landi family ; the Virgin that occupied the central compartment has been destroyed. A silver basin, weighing 400 ounces, for- merly existed in the Sacristy, with a good bas-relief of the Assumption ; the vase was sold, but the bas-relief re- mains — it is a good work of the begin- ning of the last centy. The subterranean ch. or Scurolo is a complete church of itself, with transepts and choh% supported by numerous columns with varied capi- tals. The Ch. of San Francesco il Grande, near the Piazza de' Cavalli, was built by the Franciscan Friars in 1278. The exterior is partly Lombard, the interior in the Pointed style. The paint- ing of the Conception of the Virgin in the 2nd chapel on the rt., and the cupola 450 Route 40. — Piacenza: Churches, Sect. V. over the altar, are by Malosso, of Cremona, executed in 1607. Ch. of Sanf Antonino, the original Cathedral of Piacenza, founded A.D. 324, it is said upon the spot where St. Barnabas preached to the people, rebuilt in 903, and again 1104, and much altered at various subsequent periods (lastly in 1562), so that only portions of its mediaeval archi- tecture now remain, the Bell-tower and the curious porch on the N. side called ^^11 Paradiso" the proportions of which are very good (1350). There are in the ch. 2 paintings relative to the life of the patron saint by Flamingo, the Dream of St. Joseph by Frocaccini, and a Last Supper by Castelli of Q-enoa. The sanctuary and choir are painted by Camillo Gavassetti of Modena, who died in 1628, at a very early age, and few of whose works are found except in his native city. They are princi- pally subjects from the Apocalypse, and were admired by Gruercino. The drawing is exaggerated. Gavassetti is one of the numerous artists who, having painted but little in oil, are scarcely known. An ancient paint- ing upon wood of the 14th centy. in the Sacristy should also be noticed ; it represents incidents from the hfe of the patron saint. There are two mediaeval sarcophagi outside the ch. Beliind S. Antonino is the small ch. of San Vincenzo, with two large paint- ings of David and Isaiah by Camillo Bocaecino (1530), in a grand and broad style. Ch. of San Savino, founded in 903, and rebuilt in the 15th centy. The crypt is probably as old as the 10th centy. : the pavement is tessellated, re- presenting the Signs of the Zodiac. In the church are good specimens of N^uvolone. Ch. of San Giovanni in Canale, founded by the Knights Templars. In the cloisters are some curious frag- ments of paintings of very early date. The building, which is spacious, con- tains a St. Hyacinth by Malosso, and some paintings of modern artists. There is a fine toinb of Orazio Scotti, Count of Montalbo, by Algardi, in the chapel of St. Catherine. Ch. of Sanf Agostino, closed and falling into ruin. This church, by Vignola, has a grand and imposing fa9ade. The nave is supported by 34 Doric columns, each shaft being of a single block of granite. Ch. of the San Sepolcro, by Bra* mante, and a beautiful specimen of arcliitecture (1531). It was converted by the Austrians into a mihtary hospital. Ch. of Sta. Maria delta Campagna^ near the gate leading to La Stradella and Alexandria, at the W. extremity of the town, was also erected from the designs of B ram ante, originally in the form of a Grreek cross : it was sadly spoiled towards the end of the last centy. by lengthening the choir. This alteration occasioned the destruction of several frescoes by Campi. The frescoes of this church, though little known, are excellent, and will probably be the first in a good style that the traveller from beyond the Alps will have seen in Italy, and, being placed in juxtaposition with oil paintings of the same masters, will show how much superior they are for effect, colouring, and mural decora- tion to the latter. " In this church is a cupola and chapel painted in fresco by Fordenone, showing to what extent co- lour may be carried in fresco. The orange and blue, azure and gold, purple and red, are as rich as in the Venetian pictures, and similar in treatment : the design not more severe, and with the same fierce dash in execution. On the 1. of the western door on entering there is a fresco of St. Augustine (done as a specimen previously to his being engaged to put his hand to the larger works), more complete and careful in finish, and very beautiful in colour; the rosy tints and luscious fulness in the flesh are as fine as can be." — C. W. C. Some of these frescoes have suffered from the effects of damp and time, but they are generally very fine. On en- tering the ch., upon the wall on the 1. is the fresco above alluded to of St. Augustine, beyond which is the chapel Parma. Boute 40. — Piacenza : Churches, 451 of the Magi, entirely painted by For- denone. The subject over the altar represents the Adoration of the Magi, in the lunette above the Nativity, on the side wall the Birth of the Virgin, and above it the FHglit into Egypt. The paintings of St. Sebastian and St. Roch at the next altar, as well as four subjects from the life of St. Francis, are by Camillo Frocacclni. Beyond tliis is the Chapel of St. Catherine, entirely painted by Pordenone : the altarpiece in oils represents the Mar- riage of St. Catherine of Alexandria with the Infant Christ ; the figure of St. Paul on one side is the portrait of the artist himself, and that of the Virgin the likeness of his wife. The Prench were unable to remove tliis picture ; when they attempted to roll up the canvas, the painting, which was executed upon a prepared ground of plaster or gesso spread to the thickness of about |tli of an inch on the canvas, broke and fell off. On the side wall is the magnificent fresco of St. Catherine disputing with the Doc- tors, into which the painter has also introduced his portrait in the Doctor lying on the ground with an open book before him. These fine works were executed in 1546 for a Countess Scotti Fontana, at whose expense the chapel was erected. " The cupola is like- wise by Fordenone ; it is divided into 8 panels which contain Scripture sub- jects. Immediately under the circular opening of the lantern, upon which is painted the Almighty, and on the bands which divide the panels, are painted small compositions of children playing with animals among festoons of flowers of exquisite colour and fancy. Below the dome, on the frieze of the entablature, from which it springs, is a circle of small frescoes from the hea- then mythology, in which the painter has evidently reveUed." — C. W. C. Sub- jects which are thus so incongruously mixed with Scripture subjects are — 1. Neptune and Amphitrite with sea monsters ; 2. Rape of Europa ; 3. Sile- nus drunk, borne by Fauns and Satyrs ; 4, Bacchus with Favins and Satyrs; 5. Hercules strangling the Serpents, and other figures expressive of his Labom's ; 6. Jupiter hurling lightning at the Griants ; 7. Diana hunting wdtli Nymphs and Satyrs ; 8. Venus and Adonis, with Cupids, Nymphs, and Sa- tyrs. On the piers, which alternate with pillars in supporting the entabla- tm*e, are figures called apostles, said to be by For denone, but very inferior to the paintings in the dome, and re- sembhng more ihevfOYkBoi Bernardino Gatti^ wdio painted the drum below these piers with subjects from the life of the Virgin. The pendentives are by Pordenone. These frescoes may be seen exceedingly well from the gallery which runs round the drum, behind the pillars and piers, and which is very wide. In a series of Scriptm^e histories, forming a kind of frieze over the arches of nave and choir, the best are, — Tobias and the angel Raphael, by Daniele Crespi ; Ruth and the Reapers, by Tiarini ; several by Gavassetti, of which Rachel and Rebecca, and the Apparition of the Angel to Lot and his wife, near the music gallery, by Guercino^ are the most striking. There are some paint- ings in the choir worthy of notice : a copy of Daniele da Volterra's Taking Down from the Cross by Tintoretto; a St. Catherine by Fordenone^ with an Annunciation above by Foccacdno. On the rt. wall, on entering the ch., is the St. Greorge, painted by Gatti^ oppo- site to the St. Augustine, as a speci- men when competing with For denone for the execution of the frescoes here. The Ch. of San Sisto, at the N, extremity of the city, was rebuilt in the begirming of the 16th centy. It has a good nave, supported by columns of grey granite, but from the excess of decoration, in general in bad taste, it has a heavy look. It formerly con- tained, over the high altar, Raphael's celebrated Madonna di San Sisto^ now in the gallery at Dresden, which, in 1754, the monks sold to the Elector of Saxony and King of Poland, Fred- erick Augustus III., for 12,000 sequins: a copy by Avanzini of Piacenza is now 452 Route 40. — Piaoenza : PuhUc Buildings. Sect. V. in its place. Amongst the paintings wliich remain are the Slaughter of the Innocents, by Camillo Frocaccini ; Sta. Barbara, by Falma Giovane ; the Mar- tyrdoms of Sta. Martina, by Fassano, and of St. Fabian and St. Benedict, by Faolo and Orazio Farinato^ clegli Ubert% — all on the walls of the choir. The immense monument, in the 1. hand transept, of Margaret of Austria, wife of Ottavio Farnese (ob. 1586), is rich but heavy ; it was sculptured by Gia- cinto Fiorentino. The intarsiatura of the stalls of the choir was very beautiful, but is now much injiu'ed ; it represents views of towers, castles, viUas, &c. The Citadella or Falazzo Farnese^ also at the N. extremity of the town, occupies a portion of the site of the citadel erected by Graleazzo Visconti, in 1395, to protect Piacenza on the side of the Po. The Fal. Farnese^ which was erected in 1558 by Margaret of Austria, from the designs of Vignola, was once a most sumptuous edifice, and the remains of its splendid ornaments may be traced on its dilapidated walls. It has long been converted into a barrack. Of the part erected in the 14th cent, a portion only remains on the W. side, from the closed window in which the conspirators who assassinated Pier Luigi Farnese showed his corpse to the people, and afterwards hurled it into the ditch below. The Castello^ at the S.W. extremity of Piacenza, an irregular pentagon, was begun by Pier Luigi Farnese in 1547. It was permanently occupied by an Austrian garrison until 1859, and had been greatly strengthened since 1848. The Falazzo del Commune^ in the square of i Cavalli, dates from 1281 ; the tower and middle part in a good style of Lombard Pointed architecture ; the great hall was completely altered by the Farneses in the I7th centy. Falazzo del Trihunali, formerly Landi^ is remarkable for its fine fa- cade in brickwork, with terracotta windows and cornices. The entrance and court are in an excellent cinque- cento style. The Theatre opposite, fpi'merly the Ch, of St, Eust^chio, is also a good specimen of ornamental brickwork. Falazzo Mandelli^ near the Hotel S. Marco, a large pile, the residence of the late Ducal Court. There are some private collections of paintings at Piacenza : in the Pal. Ma- razzani — a St. Jerome by Guercino ; a Holy Family attributed to F. Francia; Herodias by lAonello Spada ; an Ado- ration of the Shepherds by G. Bellini. The charitable institutions of Pia- cenza are numerous. One may be instanced as interesting to the pass- ing traveller : the Instituto Gazzola^ fomided by an officer of that name in the Spanish service for the maintenance and education of young females, who also receive marriage portions ; and as a School of Design. The house con- tains a very good collection of objects useful for instruction in the fine arts. The Great Hospital {Ospedale Grande), in the Contrada di Cam- pagna, covers a considerable space of ground. It is well supported and managed, and can receive 300 patients. Annexed to it is a medical library, be- queathed by some of its former phy- sicians. The walk round the decayed ram- parts of Piacenza ofiers some fine points of view — the masses of the churches and palaces within, the dis- tant Alps and Apennines, and the gUmpses of the Po, studded with its willowy islands. Neighbourhood of Fiaeenza. An in- teresting excursion may be made to Velleia, the Pompeii of Northern Italy, which lies S.E. of Piacenza ; a part of the road is scarcely practicable for any carriage, excepting the vehicles of the country ; the distance is about 20 miles. It passes through the follow- ing places. San Folo, formerly a fief of the family of Anguisola, whose castle is still standing here. San Giorgio, near the Nura torrent, with a large ancient castle, and a villa from the designs of Vignola, both be- longing to the Scotti— a noble fiimily f ARMA. Route 40. — Environs of Pidcenta : Velleia. 455 said*to be descended from a braiicli of the Scotch Douglasses long settled at Piacenza, where one was its Signore in 1290. Rezzano^ near which is also a feudal castle, now dismantled. Badagnano^ where the carriage-road ends. The track now leads to the valley of the Cliiero, and passes by a spot about J m. from Velleia, where flames formed by carburetted hydrogen gas, are con- stantly issuing from the ground ; we soon come in sight of the Monte Moria and Monte Rovinazzo, anciently a single eminence, but severed by the fall of the masses by which the city was buried. It is conjectured that on the summit was a lake, and that the waters, percolating through a lower stratmn of clay, detached the superin- cumbent rocks and soil, which, as at Groldau, sHd down and covered Yelleia. It is worthy of remark that the names of both the hills have reference to the catastrophe ; Rovinazzo being derived from rovina, and Moria fi'om Morte. No coins have been found of a later period than the reign of the Emperor Probus ; and hence we may conclude that the catastrophe took place during or not long after his short reign. Velleia, though it must have been a city of considerable note, is no- where directly mentioned in any of the writings of ancient authors ; but there is a cm*ious indirect notice of it in Pliny, in relation to the census of the Eoman empu'c taken by Trajan, on which occasion there were found to be at Yelleia six persons exceeding 110 years of age, four of 120, and one of 140. The subterranean treasures were first obscmx4y known in the 17th cen- tury ; and for a long time those who w^ere in possession of the secret worked the mine with much profit : the larger bronzes went to the bell-founders, the coins and ornaments to the goldsmiths of Piacenza ; but in 1760, the ch'cum- stances having been made known to the Infant Don Philip, then Duke of Parma, excavations were begun scien- tifically, and in the course of five years many statues, inscriptions, and smaller antique articles were foimd, which have filled the museum at Parma. An amphitheatre, temples, and a forum, have been discovered ; none of the walls are more than 10 ft. in height, the mighty crush having thrown down the upper part. The excavations have not been continued for several years. We now retm'n to the rly. from Piacenza to Parma, which, upon quit- ting the gates of tlie city, runs at a short distance N. and parallel to the old post-road, the ancient Via Emilia, so called from Emilius Lepidus, who constructed it B. c. 187, which took a wide circuit from Bologna, passing through Modena, Parma, and Piacenza, to Milan. The rly. stats, are at vei^y short distances from the several towns. One mile from Piacenza, on the rt., is San Lazzaro, so called from an an- cient hospital for lepers, upon the site of which is now erected an extensive ecclesiastical seminary. The celebrated Cardinal Alberoni, who was born in the neighbouring town of Fiorenzuola, left all his property to this institution. Besides the students, it supports many poor. The college contains some good pictures, in an apartment called the Cardinal's Saloon. The Ap- parition of our Lord to St. Francesca Romana, by Taddeo Zucchero ; a Virgin and Child, attributed to Pietro PerU' gino ; two paintings of AVarriors on Horseback, by Borgognone ; his own portrait, by M, Polidoro di Caravaggio, In the church is the monument of the Cardinal founder, and a good Christ on the Cross, by C. Procaccini. The li- brary contains 20,000 volumes, amongst which a copy of Alberoni's works, with MS. additions and annotations. The whole institution is conducted upon most benevolent and liberal principles. Cross the river Nura, on a handsome bridge of five elliptical arches, 1 m. before reaching the 9 kil. Ponte Nura Stat., near which were discovered the mosaic pavements now in the Museum at Parma. Between 454 Route 40. — Fiorenzuoia, Sect. V. tliis and the next stat., but on the post-road, not far from the Hne of rlj. on the rt., are the villages of CadeOy whose name, like San Laz- zaro, is a memorial of ancient piety ; for here, in 1110, one Gisulplms, a citizen of Piacenza, founded an hos- pital, Casa di JDio^ or Ca' Deo. Fontana fredda, now a small place, but anciently a seat of the Gothic kings. Theodoric had here a palace, and the spring, answering to its present name, is in ancient chronicles called "Fons Theodorici." He is supposed to have founded the present parish church of San Salvatore. Cross the Arda torrent, and soon after reach the 13 kil. Florenzuola Stat,, a small but rather active town. It is supposed to occupy the site of the Roman Fidentia. It has some mediaeval relics. To one tower chains are pendent, to which, it is -Said, criminals were bound. Small as the place is, it was once rich in conven- tual and ecclesiastical establislmients. The principal church, San Fiorenzo, is still collegiate. The carved work of the choir is worth notice; and the sacristy contains some curious relics of ancient art, amongst others a fine specimen of Niello. 3 m. on the left is the Monastery of Chiaravalle, founded by the Palla" vicinis in 1136. Yelleia may also be reached from it'iorenzuola : the road is shorter than from Piacenza, but it is not so good. It passes through Castel Arquato, which stands on the bank of the Arda, a decayed but interesting little town. The Falazzo Fuhhlico is a good Grothic builctiilg. Near Castel Arquato is the MoTite Zago, aboundiiig in fossil shells and marine tinimal i*emains in a high state of preservation; T^he CorteH paleontological collection, now in the university of Parma, where it has re- mained unpacked for a quarter of a century, was principally formed from fossils found in thisr neighbourhood. From Fiorenzuola we continue to follow the line of Roman road through a territory remarkable for its fertility. The country on the 1. extending to the Po was once called the Stato Fallavicino, from the cele- brated family who held the sove- reignty of it. It was erected into an imperial Vicariato in tlie 12th century, and extended from the Po to the Apennines, embracing the districts between the Chiavenna and Taro rivers. Its chief town, Busseto, was honoured with the title of city by Charles Y., and was the place of a conference be- tween that sovereign and Pope Paul III. The Rocca, a castellated building where this meeting was held, contains a large Gothic cornet. The other towns were Corte Maggiore — there is a fine tomb of Rinaldo Pallavicini II. (1481) in the parish church here, removed from the Convent of St. Francis — and Soarza, near the Po. 7 kil. Alseno Stat. There are fine views of the mountains on the rt. from the rly. hereabouts. [The geologist will observe that the higher chain of the Apennines is bordered towards the plain by a lower range of liills covered with vegetation ; this is entirely formed of pHocene marls and sands, extremely abundant in fossil shells, whilst the more distant points are composed of eocene beds. The village of Castel Ar- quato, at the base of the Monte Zago^ and commanding the entrance to the valley of the Arda, which runs far into the Apennines, forms from hereabouts a picturesque object in the landscape* The ravines round the village are cele^ brated as localities for fossils of the pliocene series, described by Brocchi.] The large red-brick villa seen on the rt. of the Alseno stat. is that of S. Poloj belonging to the AngUisola family* After cl^ossing the Stirone is 7 kiL IB org San JDonino Stat, close to the town {Inns : Croce Bianca, oppo- site the Puomo, fairly good). This small city, often noticed in the mediaeval his- tory of Italy, contests with Fiorenzuola the honour of being the ancient Fi- dentia. It has now a population of Parma. Route 4:0,'-^l)orgo San Jbonino^ 45S 4000 Inhab. The castle and towers, •vrhich so often enabled the inhabitants to defy the power of Parma, have long been levelled with the ground. The principal vestiges of mediaeval antiquity which the city still retains arc the Gothic Palazzo Publico and the Duomo. " San Donino, in whose ho- noui' this church was erected, was a sol- dier in the army of the Emperor Maxi- mian, and sei*ved under his orders in Germany. Donino, with many others, became a Christian ; and when Maximian issued an edict, ordering all persons to renounce the Christian faith on pain of death, Donino fled, but was overtaken near the river Stirone, by the emissaries of the tyrant, and immediately put to death. Near that spot there was at that time a village called JuUa. " In 362 the Bishop of Parma, ad- monished by a di'eam, sallied forth and discovered the body of Donino — known to be that of the martyr by an inscrip- tion fovmd on the spot, and by tlie sweet odour which issued from the grave. A chapel was immediately erected to receive the holy remains : and we learn from a letter from St. Ambrose to Faustinus that the village of Julia had changed its name into that of San Donino so early as 387. "From that time the shrine of St. Donhio became one of the most fre- quented in Italy, and received oblations which led to the construction of a temple on a larger scale* The existing church is a large building, and has un- dergone various alterations. The oldest part of it is in tlie Loml3ard style ♦ but the very curious and rich facade belongs to times subsequent to those of the Lombard — to times when the imitation of the Eoman bas-reliefs succeeded to the monstrous imagery of the 7th and 8th centuries. No record remains of the period at which this fagade was erected ; but there are various circum- stances which give us reason to believe that it cannot be older than the 12tli century. The barbarous character of the sculpture, the neglect of aU propor- tions, the heads as large as the bodies, might seem to indicate a remoter an- tiquity ; but there is a bas-relief over one of the gates at Milan, known to have been executed at the close of the 12th century, which is no less rude, and which proves that the arts of Italy, down to that period, continued to be in a state of the lowest depression. The projecting portals, the pediment over the doors, the pillars resting on animals, are all features of the latter part of the 11th and of the 12th century."— 6/. Knight. There is a good deal of medigeval sculp- ture. In one of the lateral porches, called the porch of Taurus, the heads of bulls are introduced ; in another, the porch of Ariesy the pillars rest upon kneeling rams, and the ram's head is introduced in the capitals, while the sun — repre- sented by a human head surrounded with rays — appears in the archivolt. Some sculptures of theporches are taken from Scripture history ; others from Pagan. ' ' Hercules "is wres tUng with the lion. A square tablet, containing the figure of a woman in a chariot drawn by dragons, holding a torch in either hand, is the same design which at San Mark's at Yenice is called Ceres or Proserpine. It is in the same singular low relief. Among the sculptures on the walls of the apse are the hunt of the soul by the Demons, under the emblems of the stag and the hounds j and the " PetraSolis," exhibiting the sun, followed by an inscription in uncial letters. The iilterior of the cathedral, which is scarcely altered, is as interesting as the outside. The crypt will be worth visiting. Borgo San Donino contains a large Poorhouse, or Union Workhouse, esta- blished by the French in the buildings of a suppressed contenti On leaving the stat. cross the river on a handsome bridge. JRovacchia Codura^ on the torrent Kovacchia, where a church marks the site of a deserted village. Farola, Here a certain Podesta of Parma built a castle, for the purpose of keeping the " Borghigiani " in check. The traces of the ruined building are in 456 Route AO,-^Cdstei Guetfo: the Taro, gfect. V. the fields to tiie S. of tlie road, and the situation so struck Ariosto, that he has described it in the following stanza : — ** Giacea non lungi da Parigi un loco, Che volgea un miglio, o poco meno intorno, Lo cingea tutto un argine non poco Sublime, a guisa d' un teatro adorno. Un castel gia vi fu, ma a ferro, e a foco Le mura e i tetti, ed a rovina andorno. Un simil puo vederne in su la strada, Qual volta a Borgo 11 Parmigiano vada." Orlando Furioso, cant, xxvii. 47. \Fontenellato. 3 m. beyond Parola, a road striking off on the 1. leads to JRocca di Fontenellato, a village near the Eio Grand6 torrent, consisting chiefly of a villa belonging to the family of San Vitale, in which there is a room painted in fresco by JParmiglanino^ on the plan of Correggio's more celebrated Camera di San Paolo at Parma (p. 465). It is supposed the artist took refuge here when persecuted by the confraternity of La Steccata, and painted the room out of gratitude to his protectors. The subject is the fable of Actseon, repre- sented in 13 lunettes, above which are children on the roof of the grotto. In one of the lunettes is the portrait of a beautiful Countess di San Yitale ; in another two of the children embracing each other. One of the hunters in the second lunette is the painter's portrait. Diana throwing water in the face of Acteeon is very graceful. The room, smaller than that of San Paolo, is badly lighted. The frescoes are in excellent preservation.] 9 kil. Castel Q-uelfo Stat.^ a small place, with the ancient castle from which it derives its name. One portion is in ruin, others are partly modern- ized ; but the bold projecting machico- lations stiU remain, as weU as the ori- ginal outline, testifying to its feudal grandeur. The walls are now covered with ivy. The castle was, at one time, called Torre d) Orlando^ not from the Paladin, but from Orlando Fallavicini^ who held it for the Grhibelline party ; but being besieged and taken (1407) by Ottone Terzi^ the lord of Parma, and a great leader of the opposite faction, he changed its name to Castel Guelfoj in honour of his victory. From this spot, and dm'ing the re- mainder of the journey, the views of the Apennines, ranging along the southern horizon, are fine. Soon afterwards we reach the banks of the TarOy in the winter season a fine and rapid torrent rushing to join the Po, wliilst in the summer, the wide waste of the stony bed marks the extent of its stream at other seasons. Tliis river is of con- siderable note in ancient geography, as having been the boundary between the Grauhsh and the Ligurian tribes. In the autumn it swells with sudden and impetuous fury, and during the whole winter season the passage was here at- tended with much difficulty and peril. Such dangers so often occurred during the middle ages, that bridge-building was undertaken as a work of Christian charity : and, somewhat like the Pont Saint Esprit, the first bridge over the Taro was erected about 1170, by the exertions of a poor hermit of Nonan- tola, who, stationing himself by the side of the Yia Emiha, begged until he collected sufficient money to build it. But, after sustaining repeated da- mage from the violence of the river, the hermit's bridge was finally carried away in 1345, and ill replaced by a dangerous and inconvenient ferry, even till our own times. The present mag- nificent bridge was begun by Maria Louisa in 1816, and completed in 1821, at a cost of 2,161,508 fr. It is 586 metres (1922 ft.) in length, and com- posed of 20 arches. Colossal statues of the four principal streams of the state, the Parma, the Taro, the Enza, and the Stirone, resting upon their urns, adorn the abutments at each end ; it is in many respects a work worthy of the best times of Italy. The rly. crosses the river on a separate bridge a little lower down the stream ; from here the spires of Parma come into view. The river Parma is crossed on a new bridge, which contrasts favourably with the three older ones seen from it on the rt., and the line, after running along the Ducal gardens, soon brings us to the 13 kil. Parw,a stat., situated close to Parma. Route 40. — Pcirrna : History ; CathedraL 457 the city gate (Porta S. Bernardo), where omnibuses to the hotels and liackney carriages will be foimd waiting. Paema. (Inm: Albcrgo della Croce Bianca, in the Piazza della Steccata, kept by CorneUi, who has lived in England, and as steward to the British Minister at Turin; H. do la Poste). This city, whose population now exceeds 45,000, is of an oval shape, which it has retained from remote antiquity. Situated in the territory of the Boian Gauls, it was reduced to a Koman colony as early as B.C. 187 ; destroyed during the wars of the Triumvirate, it was re- built by Juhus Csesar and Augustus. In the middle ages, like most of the large towns in Italy, it was successively governed as a republic and by some of its great famihes — the most remark- able of the latter being the Terzis, the De' Kossis, the Pallavicinis, and the San Yitales. Julius II. obtained it from the Dukes of Milan in 1513 ; it remamed a possession of the Popes until 1545, when Paul III. made it, as well as Piacenza, over to his natural son, Pier Luigi Far- nese, with the title of duke. It is said to have been called JParma from its similarity to the form of a shield. But the torrent Parma, which runs through the city, most probably gave its name to the buildings wliich arose upon its banks. When the city was under the authority of the Popes, it was represented by a female figure sitting upon a pile of shields, and holding a figure of Yictory, with tlie inscription oUPa^ma aurea, Parma suffered from an earthquake in 1832, when several houses were so much injiu-ed as to requhe being rebuilt. The Yia Emiha, which divides the city into two nearly equal portions, crosses, in the centre, the Piazza Grande, which has on the N. side the Palazzo del Commune, with its bell-tower. So com- plete has been the subversion of the ancient colony of Lepidus, that a few inscriptions, mutilated sculptures, and objects of jewelleiy are all that remain iV. Italu—V^m. of Roman times. The name of Parma is connected with some of the principal events in the Lombard league ; but little of its mediaeval character remains, except in the fine group formed by the Duomo and the Baptistery, which stand close to one another at a short distance to the N. of the Piazza Grande. Plan for msiting the Sights of Parma in a day, and in topographical order. Cathedral; JBaptistery ; Ch. of San Giovanni Evangelista ; Teatro Farnese ; GalleHa; Library ; Museum of Anti- quities ; Printing Office ; Camera di San Paolo ; Ch. of S. Alessandro ; Ch. of La Steccata; Piazza Grande; Uni' versity ; Ch. of tlie Anyiunziata ; Giar- dino Ducale ; Citadella ; Stradone and Boulevards. The tourist will find hackney coaches at 2 fr. an hour, which will materially assist him in getting over his work in a short time ; or the landlords at the hotels will furnish car- riages at the same rate. Tlie Luomo or Cathedral: the ex- terior of the "W. front is almost un- altered. The transepts and the choir are Lombard, and the centre is crowned by an octagon tower and dome. In the great portal the pecuhar Lombard style will be recognised. The building was consecrated by Pope Pascal II. a.d. 1106 ; many portions are much later. The principal entrance, forming the central door of the fagade, has on each side colossal hons of red Yerona mar- ble, the one grasping a serpent, the other a bull : they were sculptured by G. Bono da Bisone, in 1281. The other sculptures of this portal are by Bian- chino, in 1493. The sun mystically placed in the keystone of the circular arch, the months by the principal occu- pations during each on either side ; the hunt, the allegory of the pursuit of the soul by the fiend, over the lintel, are cm'ious : a few Roman inscriptions are built up in the walls, indicating perhaps how many more are concealed in its core or beneath in the founda- tions. 458 Route 40. — Parma : The Duomo. Sect. V. The interior, excepting some G-othic interpolations and some modern addi- tions, is in a fine Lombard style, and the arrangement of the triforinm is re- markable : " The vaulting of the nave is elUptical; a circmnstance I do not remember having met with elsewhere in a building of this era." — Woods. Mag- nificent but perisliing frescoes cover the walls. The most important of these are upon the cupola, and were executed by Correggio between the years 1522 and 1530, The subject is the Assmnption of the Yirgin. The painter has ima- gined that the octagon, or drum, from which the cupola rises, embraces the space on earth in wliich stood the sepul- chre of the Yirgin ; for this pm^pose, upon the octagon itself, from which the great vault springs, runs a balus- trade, above which rises a candela- brum at each of the 8 angles, with a number of boys between engaged in lighting tapers, or burning incense and odoriferous herbs. On the balustrade, and in front of the base of the cupola, stand the Apostles disposed around looking upwards with astonishment, and as if dazzled by the great light of the Celestial host who transport the Yu'gin ; and above. Heaven appears open to receive her. The Angel Gabriel descends to meet her, and the difierent Iiierarchies of the blessed circle around hhn. In the arches under the cu- pola, or on its pendentives, are repre- sented the Four Protectors of the City of Parma — St. Hilary, St. Bernard, St. John the Baptist, and St. Thomas — at- tended by Angels symbohcal of the virtues of the Saint, and with the em- blems and ornaments of his dignity. St. John, holding a Lamb ; angels around darting, as it were, through the clouds : St. Thomas, also surrounded by angels, some bearing exotic fruits, emblematical of this apostle's labours in India ; St. Llilary, looking down upon the city with an expression of kindness and pro- tection ; while St. Bernard, kneeling, is imploring on its behalf. This magni- ficent work, which occupied so many years of the artist's life, was poorly paid for and inadequately appreciated. He was much teased and thwarted by the cathedral warden s : one of them, in allu- sion to the fact that many more hmbs than bodies are visible from below, told him that he had made a " hash of frogs," tin guazzetto di rane. The v/ork is remarkable for its chiar'-oscui'o, confined indeed, as compared with Correggio' s oil pictui-es, to a hght scale, especially in the upper portions ; for its wonderful foreshortenings ; and for the extensive range in the size of the figures, in order to convey by their perspective diminution an impression of great space. " It must be evident that gradations m magnitude will be more full and varied when they comprehend, if only in a hmited degree, the perspective diminu- tion of forms. The great Italian artists seem to have considered this essential to distinguish painting, however severe in style, from basso-rihevo, in which the varieties of magnitude are real. But in the works by Michael Angelo and Raphael this perspective diminution of figures is confined to narrow limits; partly because the technical means may have been wanting to mark the relative distances of objects when the work was seen under the conditions requu'ed ; but cliiefly because figures much reduced in size cannot be consistently rendered expressive as actors or spectators. In the second compartment of the ceiling in the Sistine Chapel the efiects of the perspective are expressed without re- straint ; but the indistinctness which was the consequence was probably among the causes that induced Michael Angelo to reduce the space in depth in the other compartments (as regards the figures) almost to the conditions of sculpture. In Raphael's Transfigura- tion the figiu-es on the mount are sup- posed to be distant with reference to those below ; but, had they been so re- presented, they would have been devoid of meaning and importance : they are, therefore, by a judicious liberty, brought within that range of vision where ex- pression, action, and form are cognizable. One great exception is, however, not to be overlooked; Correggio, who Avas devoted to picturesque gradation under Parma. Route 40. — Parma, 459 X 2 Parma. Route 40. — Parma : The Diiomo, 461 all circumstances, and sometimes at any sacrifice, adopted a different com'se. The perspective diminution in the cu- polas at Parma (to say nothing of the objects being represented as if above the eye) is extreme ; so that even the prin- cipal figures are altogether subservient to the expression of space. This was the chief object ; but the grandem' of form and character which the nearer figui'es exliibit has been justly con- sidered to place these works far above subsequent efforts of the kind, which in the hands of the ' macliinists ' soon de- generated to mere decoration. *' If the criticisms which the frescoes in the Duomo at Parma called forth on their completion had any founda- tion, it may be inferred that the great distance at wliich the figures were seen rendered it impossible, in some cases, to discern the nicer gradations of light and shade wliich are essential to make perspective appearances intelhgible. Such considerations must, at all events, operate to restrict foreshortening under sunilar cu'cumstances." — JEastlake. " At first, and seen from below, this magnificent work appears extremely confused, but with great amenity of colours. This confusion is found to arise from two things, the destruction of the colours and consequent relief of the parts, and the blotches of wliite produced where the plaster has fallen, which I regret to say are neither few nor small. The hghts too have doubt- j less changed somewhat of their tone, : and become darker than they were originally The effect is ex- tremely injured by the round window which is found in each of the eight com- partments of the base of the dome, and the picture is well seen only when those lights are hidden. — Prof. Fhil- lips, R.A. The decay of these frescoes is to be chiefly attributed to the old insufficient roof over the dome, which still exists under the new leaden one, added to save the wrecks of Correggio's works from destruction. Their present deterio- rated state has also been partly at- tributed to Correggio having used an intonaco containing a proportion of sand. A closer inspection of them may be obtained by ascending to the roof of the church, from four small openings in the di'iun of the cupola. A good aid towards their study and comprehen- sion will be the examination of the beautiful copies of them in the Pina- coteca (p. 468) by the late Professor Toschi and his pupils. The vaultmgs of the choir and nave are by G-irolamo Mazzola, the cousin and scholar of Parmigianino. The sides of the nave are by Lattanzio Gdmbara^ who worked here from 1568 to 1573. Near the door he has introduced fine heads of Correggio and Parmigianino — evidently portraits. These frescoes, are academical in treatment ; they want brightness, the subjects are confused, and not well adapted for mural deco- ration. By G. Cesare Frocaccini are two good paintings of King David and St. Ceciha. The other works of art her© worth noticing are, in the 4th chapel of the rt. aisle, belonging to the Commune of Parma, several paintings of the 15th centy. relative to SS. Fabianus and Sebastian, by Jacojpo LoscJii and JBar- tolomeo GrossL They had been white- washed over, and have only been lately rediscovered. The picture over the altar, of a Virgin and Saints, is by Ansel/mi. In a chapel near the southern door of the transept is a good Cruci- fixion with Saints by B. Gatti. The Yalesi-Baganzola chapel, opening out of the N. aisle, is covered with fres- coes of the I5th centy,, by LoscM and Grossi, representing scenes in the hves of SS. Andrew, Christopher, Catherine, &c., and are interesting in tlie early history of the school of Parma. Amongst the minor objects of inte- rest are the seats of the choir, finely carved, and the rich high altar; also fragments of a fine painted glass win- dow, executed by Gondrate in 1574 from the designs of L. Grambara. The inscription upon Bodoni^s tomb 462 Route 40. — Parma : The Battisterio, Sect. V. is cut in imitation of his printing types. The tomb of JBartolomeo Montini (died 1507), by di Grate^ should also be noticed. There is a monument to Agostino Caracci, who died at Parma in 1650, in the S. transept. Petrarch held preferment here. By his will, in which he most truly styles himself inutile Archidiacono, he directed that, if he died at Parma, he should be interred in tliis cathedral. In 1713 a cenotaph was erected in the chapel at the extremity of the rt. aisle to his memory by Nicolo Cicognari, one of the canons. The subterranean Church is large and well lighted, and supported by 28 marble columns with varied capitals. It contains some good specimens of sculpture by Prosjpero Clementi of Keggio — the Altar and Shrine of San Bernardino degli Uberti, Bishop of Parma (died 1133). The saint is repre- sented between angels supporting his mitre and pastoral staff. The bas-reliefs were designed by Girolamo Mazzola. The tomb oiBartolommeoI*rato,eYected in 1539. Two weeping figures are full of expression : the di'apery is of good execution ; the background is a mosaic upon a gold ground, rare in a work of such modern date. In a chapel open- ing on the rt. out of this subterranean ch. some curious early frescoes have been discovered under the whitewash ; one, of the Madonna seated on a rich Grothic throne, is fine and broad in character, with the Donatorio, a Bishop, on her rt. The ornamental heads of saints in medallions round the base of the vault are very good specimens of the X5th centy. The Campanile is in the ordinary square form of such Lombard edi- fices, divided into stories by 3 cornices, with an open belfry on the summit. The JBattisterio, Tliis is one of the most splendid of the Baptisteries of Italy. It is entirely built of red and grey Verona marble, and was com- inenced after the designs of Benedetto Antelami, in the year 1196. But the work experienced many interruptions, especially during the supremacy of the powerful and ferocious Eccelino da Romano, who, in the middle of the 13th centmy, governed the north of Italy in the name of the Emperor, and who, displeased with the inhabitants of Parma, forbade them access to the quarries of the Veronese territory, from which the marble for the battisterio was obtained. In consequence of these interruptions it was not finished until 1281, which will account for the ap- pearance of the round style in the lower part of the building, and of the pointed above. The battisterio is encircled with four tiers of small columns on the outside, forming as many open galleries, which, with more observance of ancient rules than is usuaUy found in the Lombard style, support continued architraves, the whole surmounted by a drum of 5 pilasters on each side. There are 3 por- tals, all very elegant and covered with sculptures ; round the base of the tower is a band of sculptures in high relief of real and fabulous animals, dogs, bears, lions, centaurs, sphinxes, griffons, &c. The interior has 16 sides, from which spring converging ribs that form a pointed dome. In the centre stands a very large octagonal font, cut out from one block of yellowish-red marble. It appears from an inscription cut on the rim that this font was made by Johannes Pallassonus in 1298. In one corner of the building is a smaller font (or, at least, what is now used as such), covered with Runic foliage and strange animals ; it stands upon a lion setting his paws upon a ram. All the children born in Parma are still brought here for baptism. The baptistery is a collegiate church, having a chapter of six canons and a provost, besides inferior ofiicers ; its registers go back to 1459. The vault is lighted by 21. windows, the intervals covered witli paintings supposed to have been exe- cuted soon after its completion or early in the 13th centy., whilst those of the niches below are of a later date, Parma. Route 40. — Parma : San Giovanni, 463 as they bear the names of Nicolo da Reggio and BartoJlno da JPiacenza^ who hved towards the middle and end of the 14th. These paintmgs, arranged in rows or compartments, represent the 12 Apostles, and the symbols of the Evangehsts : in the second row \ the Saviour in the act of benediction ; the Virgin in a blue mantle, with the Prophets ; scenes in the history of St. John the Baptist ; yarious Saints and Prophets : in the niches Prophets and Saints : and in the lower row his- tories of St. John the Baptist, especially the Baptism of Our Lord, and sub- jects from the life of Christ, Many of ! these paintings display a vivid colour- 1 ing and a vehemence of action often i carried to exaggeration. The stalls, ■ of inlaid work, were made by Bernar- dino Canoccio in 1493. The Church and Convent of San Giovanni JEvangelista, immediately be- liind the Duomo, attached to a very extensive Benedictine monastery Avhich dates fi'om the lOtli centy. The in^ terior was designed by one Zaccagni, a native arcliitect, and begun in 1510 : the exterior is nearly a centy. later (1607), by Slmone Moschino of Orvieto : the design is good and striking. The interior consists of a long nave and aisles, supported by fluted pilasters with Ionic capitals. The dark paint- ings on the vault give it a heavy look, which it has -not in reality. The eh. contains frescoes on the cupola by Correggio, now damaged and obscured by damp and smoke, representing a vision of St, Jolm. He, in extreme old age, and the last surviving apostle, beholds, in a moment of extacy, his companions in heaven, who form a circle around their Divine Master re- splendent in glory. The saint is alone upon the earth, and is depicted below ail the others at the extreme edge of the cupola. He kneels upon a rock, his arms leaning on a book, which is supported by a number of boys, of whom the very clouds are full. Each of the 4 pendentives has on it an Evan- gehst, with a Doctor of the Cliui'ch, viz. St. John with St. Augustine ; St. Matthew with St. Jerome ; St. Mark with St. Gregory; St. Luke with Sfc. Ambrose ; all seated in various atti- tudes upon clouds, and supported by graceful children. This is a much smaller work than that of the Duomo, and painted some time before, be- tween 1520 and 1524, when Correggio was only 2G years of age. The style is extremely large, and the finish more complete than in that of the Duomo. Tlie figures in the angles are much injured by the peeling off of the plaster : some parts appear very fine. The heads and expression of the saints in the group below are more complete and appropriate than in those of the Duomo. Correggio also painted the tribune behind the choir. When the church was enlarged in 1584 the monks thought that the frescoes could be de- tached, but they crumbled and broke in the operation. On that occasion was procured the fragment of the Corona- tion of the Virgin, now preserved in the Library. A copy made by Aretusi in some measure replaces the original, whilst a more accm^ate one still by An. Caraeci may be seen in the Pina- coteca. By Correggio also is a small fresco of St. John writing his Gospel. It is over a door opening out of the 1. hand transept into the monastery. The other works of art here are — in 2nd chapel on rt., the Virgin and St. Joseph in Adoration before the infant Saviour, by G. Francia ; the figm'e of the Virgin adoring the Infant Saviour is good, it has been much re- stored, and is badly seen, so is one of the shepherds stretching forth both arms as he hears the song of the Angels. In the 4t]i chapel, a fine altarpiece of St. James at the feet of the Virgin, by Gir. Mazzola. In the 5th, frescoes by An- selmi on the roof, much restored. The Transfiguration, at the extremity of the chou% is by Parmigianino. The Christ on the Cross, in the 6th chapel, is by Anselmi. In the 5th chapel on 1. a bad copy of Correggio' s St. Jerome. In the 4th, the Virgin offering a palm- branch to St. Catherine and St. Nicho- 464 Route 40. — Parma : Ma, delta Steccata, Sect. y. las, by Farmigianino. In tlie 2nd, S. Greorge and 2 saints over the arcli. And in the 1st on the 1. on entering the church, 2 frescoes on the arches of Sta. Lucia and Sta. ApoUonia before the Virgin, by the same. The arabesque paintings on the vault of the nave are by Anselmi. The monastery, suppressed by the French, was restored some years ago to the Benedictines. It is a stately build- ing, containing tln'ee very handsome quadrangles, sm'rounded by cloisters. The outer walls were adorned with frescoes, which have all but disap- peared from the effect either of tune or of violence. The interior is fine : it is traversed by 4 long galleries, which in the form of a cross unite in the centre. At the point of junction are 4 statues in terra-cotta, executed by Antonio Begarelli^ of Modena. The sculptm^ed arabesques on their pedestals and those on the door of the chapter- liouse are by Agresti. The greater part of the conventual buildings are now tenanted by soldiers. The Cam- panile^ the highest in Parma, and which is detached from the church, was erected in 1614. It is a fine edifice of the kind ; square below, it is sur- mounted by an octagonal lantern and belfry, and a gallery, from which there is an extensive view over the surround- ing country, Ch. of the Madonna delta Steccata^ in the street leading from the Piazza Grande to the Ducal Palace, begun about 1521, from the designs of 'Fran- cesco Zaccagni. A figure of the "Virgin painted on the wall of a house first attracted the devotion of the people of Parma ; and from a palisade {Stec- cato) built round it, it acquu'ed the name of the Steccata. The present church, which stands on the site of an oratory, to which the miraculous pic- ture had been removed, is in the form of a Grreek cross, with a semicircular apse at the extremity of each branch. In each of the angles of the arms of the cross are smaller chapels. The chief paintings are by JParmigianino ; Moses breaking the Tables of the Law, Adam and Eve, and the Sibyls, and the Virtues over the organ. The Moses, and Adam and Eve, which are executed in chiar'- oscm'o on the soffit of the arches ' Avhich form the entrance to the choir, have become so dark that it is difficult to see them ; but the merit of the Moses has always been considered very great . * ' Parmigianino, when he painted the Moses, had so completely supplied his first defects, that we are here at a loss which to admh-e most, the correct- ness of drawing or the grandeur of con- ception. As a confirmation pf its great excellence, and of the impression which it leaves on the minds of elegant spec- tators, I may observe, that our great lyric poet [Gray], when he conceived his sublime idea of the indignant Welsh bard, acknowledged that, though many years had intervened, he liad warmed his imagination with the remembrance of this noble figure of Parmigianino." — Sir J. Reynolds. Parmigianino was em- ployed by the Eraternity of the Annun- ciation, to whom the church then be- longed, and by whom he was engaged at weekly wages. He was at this time much addicted to alchemy, to which he gave his time when he should have been employed at his work. His em- ployers first warned him that such conduct would not do : then they sued him at law, and he ran away, and died soon afterwards (Aug. 24, 1540), of trouble and vexation, in the 37th year of his age. Upon his death, Anselmi was called in, some say at the instance and under the directions of Giulio Eomano. Anselmi^ & principal painting here is a Coronation of the Virgin on the vault over the high-altar. The interior of the cupola, by Sojaro or G-atti, represents the Assumption, for which he was paid 1400 golden scudi in 1566. It is an imitation of Correggio. By Girolamo Mazzola are the frescoes of the Nativity, and of the Descent of the Holy Ghost, in the chapels on rt. and 1. of the high altar : a picture of the Madonna and Child between St. John the Baptist and St. Luke is good, and ai;tributed to Francia. There are Parma. Eoute 40. — Parma : San Lodovico, 465 some good sepulchral monuments liere. In tlie chapels of St. Thomas and St. Paul are those of Sforzino Sforza, son of Francesco Sforza II. (died 1523), sleeping in death, his head resting on his helmet, by Agrafe, and of Otta- vio Farnese (ched 1567), by Brianti, a fine bust. Count Gruido da Correggio, a fidl-length statue, rising above a sar- copliagus of yellow marble, executed by Barbieri, about 1568. In the S. arm of the cross or chapel over the altar, in ■wliich there is a large painting of St. Greorge by Franceschini, has been placed a memorial to the Duchess Maria Louisa, consisting of a group of the Dead Clmst, by JBondoni, a native artist, and at the expense of the city. In the vaults beneath the church are the sepulclu'es of the dukes of the house of Bourbon, and of some of theu' Farnese predecessors. The most inte- resting is that of Duke Alessandro ; his name, Alexander^ only appears upon the sarcophagus, upon which are lying his helmet and liis long-bladed Spanish rapier. The remains of the other princes are in vaults bricked up in the wall, a marble tablet recording the name of each. A small vault with a grated door contains the heart of the last sove- reign, placed in a Httle box, on a table. In tlie same street, and nearly opposite tlie Madonna della Steccata, is the ch. of Sanf Alessandro, which dates from 1625, having been erected on the site of a ch. of the 9th centy. by Margaret daughter ot Alessandro Farnese, and from the designs of Magnani. It con- sists in the interior of 3 divisions, sepa- rated by handsome Ionic columns of red Yerona marble. The architectural views on the roof are by M. A. Colonna ; and the cupola, on which is repre- sented Christ conducting the Virgin to heaven, by TiaHni. The painting over the high altar, of the Virgin giving the palm of Martyrdom to Sta. Justina, is by Parmigianino ; the St. Bertoldo in the 2nd chapel on rt. is by Tio/rini. Following the same street, passing the theatre, we soon arrive at the Piazza di Corte, near which, in a narrow one on the rt., stands tlie Ch. of San Lodovico, formerly at- tached to a monastery of Benedictine nuns, restored of late years for pur- poses of education to the Jesuitical female order of the Sacre Coeur, now suppressed. The ch. and build- ings are not remarkable : the great object of attraction is the " Camera dl San Paolo,'^ painted by Correggio about the year 1519, in the Parloir of the adjoining convent, by order of the Abbess, Giovanna di Piacenza (the keys are kept at the Picture Gallery). It represents, over the chimney-piece, a grotto of Diana, beneath the level of the ground, covered with a roof of fohage, having 16 oval apertures cor- responding in number with the spaces interposed between the sections of the vaulted roof. In each of these ovals children are seen peeping in and out as they pass around the grotto. The composition is varied in each of the ovals. They bear various symbols or attributes of the goddess, and imple- ments of the chace. Under these medalhons are 16 lunettes containing mythological subjects in chiar'-oscuro, — The Three Fates ; the Suspension of Juno ; Bacchus nursed by Leucothea- Lucina ; Ceres ; a group of Satyrs ; Endymion and Adonis ; Minerva ; the Graces ; and the Hke. Round the apartment ^uns an elegant frieze. On one side of the chamber is a projecting chimney, on which is painted Diana tl'U'owing off her veil as she mounts a car drawn by stags ; these latter now effaced. An adjoining chamber, very similar in form, is painted by Ales- sandro Araldi, principally with groups of figures. In the 3 lunettes over each wall are different profane and Chris- tian subjects. The roof is covered with very handsome arabesques, interspersed with portraits and small medallions ; on the chimney are the arms of the abbess (3 half-moons), which are fre- quently introduced into the paintings here by Araldi and Correggio. At the time when Giovanna lived great irregularities prevailed in the more opulent nunneries. The abbesses, even when untainted by 466 Route 40. — Parma : Farnese Palace, Sect, V. grosser vices, indulged, without tlie least restraint, in the gaieties and pleasiu-es of the world, setting at nought all ecclesiastical discipline. The Vatican was, however, alarmed by the progress of the Eeformation ; and, under the rigid Adrian YI., the nuns were . commanded to ob- serve the vows which they had made; disorders in the conventual establishments were reformed ; the doors of San Paolo were closed, and the poor abbess died within a month afterwards. The paintings remained almost forgotten until about the year 1795, when the duke caused them to be examined, and a dissertation from the Padre Offo brought them out of their seclusion. In the church of S. Lodovico is the sepulchral monument to Count Niepperg, the second husband of Maria Louisa, by Bartolini of Flor- ence. Several ancient churches were demo- lished during the French occupation. Those which remain are principally modern or modernised : a few may be noticed. >S', Andrea has a paintmg of S. Bernardo by Sebastian Conca, S. Se- polcro,ne2LV thePortaS. Michele, leading towards Modena, a Madonna and Saints, in 1st chapel on rt., by Parmigianino (the celebrated picture of the Ma- donna della Scodella was formerly in this church). S. Tomasso, over the high altar, the Nativity, by Alessandro Mazzola. 8. Uldarico, a very ancient conventual foundation on the site of the Roman theatre, the Nativity over the principal altar, by Gir. Mazzola. In the Ch. of the SS. Annunziata, beyond the bridge, founded by Ottavio Farnese, is a half- ruined fresco of the Annuncia- tion, by Correggio, brought from a de- secrated edifice. It has been engraved in Toschi's collection. The painting opposite to it, of the Madonna, with St. John the Evangehst, St. Bernard, and St. Francis, is by Marchesi da Coti- gnola^ and highly prized by Lanzi. The ancient Farnese Palace, called also La Pilotta^ and the buildings connected with it, form a somewhat gloomy and rambling pile of great extent. One portion includes a cortile of fine proportions, but unfinished. It was begun by Ranuccio Farnese I., in 1597, and then adjoined the fine church of San Pietro Martire, which was pulled down to enlarge the cortile. Entering under the gateway of the palace, by which passes the road to the bridge, and ascending the wide staircase, a rich heavy portal is seen in front. This is the entrance to the Teatro Farnese^ built, in 1618, by Duke Ranuccio, and opened in 1628, upon occasion of the marriage of Duke Odoardo with the Princess Margaret of Tuscany. It is said to be the first theatre in which hoxes as we build them were introduced. The whole is of wood ; and, though some effort has been made to keep it in repaii% it is in a most dilapidated state, and seems rapidly verging to complete ruin. The light shines through the rafters above, and the decayed floors are giving way below. To the 1. of the theatre are the apartments of the Reale Accademia di ' Pelle Arti, founded in 1752. After many changes the Academy was re- established in 1822. It is now almost exclusively dedicated to the fine arts. Of this establishment the Galleria or Pinacoteca forms a portion. The collection contains nearly 600 pictures, several of the highest importance. The Pinacoteca occupies a series of 14 rooms or divisions, as will be seen on reference to the annexed plan. There is no catalogue, nor Nos. on the pictures, nor any indication of the sub- jects they represent, although the name of the painter is generally attached to them. Entering from the great staircase, a vestibule or kind of anteroom (I.) con- tains some modern works of Parma artists of very little interest. This hall opens into the Great Gallery (II. to YI.), divided off into 5 portions: here are some of the very fine works of the Pinacoteca. In the 1st divi- sion (II.) are the oldest paintings. A Madonna with St. Catherine, attri- buted to Luca da Parma. A Virgin Parma. Route 40. — Parma : Finacoteca. 467 GROUND PLAN OF TllE TINACOTPXA AT TARMA, *- III , E 1^ s:l- Ireat Gallerv, of which III. Oval Hall. VII ' VIII. Council -room. IX. Madonna della Scodella, X. Toschi's Drawings. XI. Correggio's St. Jerome. ' XII. Toschi's Drawings, ixiir. )„ ,, ^. , I ^jy > Small Pictures. i XV. Drawings of Old Mastei-s. a. Entrance to Galleria. 6. Statue of Maria Louisa. Ete. 25. Piadena, J Between Cremona and Parma there is a diligence daily, which leaves Parma at 4 P.M., arriving at Casal Maggiore about 11, wliich it leaves at 2, arriving at Cremona at 4, to catch the 5 p.m. train for Milan. As there is Httle of interest at Casal Maggiore, the traveller, by hiring a carriage for 12 to 15 frs., can proceed immediately to Cremona, and visit most that is of interest there before the starting of the evening train for Milan (Col. CJew, May, 1866) . For Pontremoh daily at 11 p.m. There is also a daily diligence to Mantua by Casal Maggiore, Sabbionetta, and Cas- teUucchio at 7 J a.m., reaching Mantua at ?>^ P.M-, in time for the train for Yerona and Yenice (fare, 9 francs), corresponding with those to and from Cremona. 13 m. Casal Maggiore (Inn, La Croce Yerde) ; a small but important town of 5000 Inhab., on the N. bank of the Po, here a mighty stream : the country is always at the mercy of its devastating waves. " Sic pleno Padus ore tumens super aggere tutas Excurrit ripas, et totos concutit agros. yuccubuit si qua tellus, cumulumque furen- tem Undarum non passa, ruit ; turn flumine toto Transit, et ignotos aperit sibi ^urgite campos. lllos terra fngit doruinos ; his rura colonis Accedunt, donante Pado." Pharsalittj vi. 472 Route 42. — Parma to Mantua, Sect. V. " So, raised by melting streams of Alpine snow, Beyond his utmost margin swells the Po, And loosely lets the spreading deluge flow : Where'er the weaker banks oppress'd retreat. And sink beneath the heapy waters' weiglit, Forth gushing at the breach tbey burst their way, And wakeful o'er the drowned country stray : Far distant fields and meads they wander o'er, And visit lands they never knew before. Here, from its seat the mouldering earth is torn, And by the flood to other masters borne ; While gathering there, it heaps the growing soil, And loads the peasant with his neighbour's spoil." Rowe'5 Lucan, vi. 464-476. Tlie embankments, in many parts, look down upon the adjoining coun- try ; and from time to time " the king of rivers" fully asserts his devastatmg power. " There is an old channel of the Po in the territory of Parma, called Po Vecchio, which was abandoned in the 12th centy., when a great number of towns were destroyed. There are re- cords of parish churches, as those of Yico Belignano, Agojolo, and Mar- tignana (which lie a little to the N. and N.W. of Casal Maggiore), having been pulled down, and afterwards re- built at a greater distance from the devouring stream. In the 15th centy. the main branch again resumed its deserted channel, and carried away a great island opposite Casal Maggiore. At the end of the same century it aban- doned, a second time, the bed called ' Po Yecchio,' carrying away three streets of Casal Maggiore." — Lyell. " Proluit insano contorquens vortice silvas Fluviorum rex Eridanus, camposque per omnes Cum stabulis armenta tulit." Gcorg.y i. 481. " Then, rising in his might, the king of floods llush'd through the forests, tore the lofty woods. And rolling onward, with a sweepy sway. Bore houses, ^ herds, and labouring hinds away." Dkyden's GeorgicSj i. 649-653. The river is now crossed on a bridge of boats. Shortly after, reach Sacca. Here we enter the Parmesan territory. ColornOy on the Parma, formerly a fief of the family of S. Yitale, of whom the beautiful Barbara di Co- lorno, sacrificed to the tyranny of Ranuccio I., was a member. TJpon the execution of her husband the fief was confiscated, and the Palace became the principal villegiatura of the sove- reigns : it is a large and stately, but somewhat neglected, building. Under the Farnese dukes it contained several remarkable specimens of antiquity and works of art. It has also some tolerable modern frescoes by Borghetti. The Church of San Liborlo, near the Pa- lace, is richly decorated. Cortile San Martino. Here is a desecrated building, once a Carthusian monastery, with a fine chiu'ch in the Renaissance style, now falhng into ruin. The above is the only road on which there are relays of horses between Cremona and Parma; but there is a more direct one, which crosses the Po at the Porto di Cremona to Monticelliy where it branches ofi* on tlie 1. to Corte-maggiore^ Susseto, Borgo San Donino, where it joins the rlwy. to Parma (see Rte. 40). From Corte Mag- giore there is also a good road of 5 m. to S. Aztiola, and another from Monti- celli, through San Nazzaro^ Caorso^ an d lloncaglia^ to Piacenza, about 20 m. 16 m. PARMA (Route 40). ROUTE 42. PARMA TO MANTUA, BY GUTASTALLA. Brescello 17 m. | Borgoforte 17 m. Guastalla 9 Mantua. 52 Eng. m. Vicopre, with a small church in the style of the Renaissance. Sorholo, on the Enza torrent, a village on the frontier of Modena. Brescello, the Roman Brixellum ; pleasantly situated near the rt. bank of the Po, "here dotted with numerous islands. This tovm, which is now on the rt. bank of the river, is one of Parma. Route 43. — Parma to Sarz ana. 473 those of which the site was formerly on the 1. " Subsequently to the year 1390, the Po deserted part of the terri- tory of Cremona, and invaded that of Parma; its old channel being still reco2:nisable, and bearing the name of Po Morto."— ZryeZ/. The road runs along the Po by Jio- retto and Gualtieri, and crosses the Crostolo river, wliicli formerly sepa- rated Modena from Gruastalla. Guastalla. — {Inns : La Posta, II Capello Yerde, II Leone d'Oro.) This small city on the Crostolo, containing between 2000 and 3000 Inhab., is quite in proportion to the duchy of which it is the capital. Guastalla be- longed originally to the family of the Torellis as its Counts from 1406 to 1509, and afterwards to a younger branch of th (Gonzagas of Mantua; in 1748 it wa given to the Parma Bourbons by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, the iast of the Gonzagas of the Guastalla branch having died in 1746 without issue. Forming with those of Parma and Piacenza the sovereignty of Maria Louisa, it reverted to the Duke of Modena on the death of that princess. In the Lombard times it was known by the name of Guardstall. The statue in bronze of Perrante Gonzaga I., by Leone Leoni^ in the piazza, is the only work of art worthy of notice here. He is trampUng upon Envy, represented in the shape of an ugly satyr. Don Ferrante had been accused of treason against the emperor, but he disproved the charge made by his enemies. The cathedral has only recently obtained a bishop, the see having been insti- tuted m 1828. There are eight other churches in the town, and some chari- table institutions. Luzzara^ a village on the banks of the Po. It is a point of some mili- tary importance ; here, in August 1702, the imperialists under Prince Eugene suffered a memorable defeat from the French. Between Villa and Sailetto we traverse the territory of Gonzaga. One mile beyond Sailletto we cross the Po by the ferry of Borgoforte^ so called from the strong castle built here by the Man- tuans in 1211. MANTUA (Etc. 30). EOUTE 43. PAEMA TO SAEZANA, BY PONTEEMOLI. Fornuovo. Berceto. Pontremoli. Terra Rossa. Sarzana. The road is kept in tolerable repair, but is heavy in winter, and at all times dull until it reaches the summit of the Apennines. It has been improved of late years, and a diligence travels by it daily, except on Sundays, carrying the mails, from Parma to Sarzana by Pontremoli, leaving at 5 a.m. : fare to Pontremoli 11 fr. and to Sarzana 19 fr., there are no post-horse stations on it. This road was much frequented in the middle ages by persons going to Rome from countries beyond the Alps ; hence the names then given to it of Strada Francesca and Romea. Anciently a branch of the Yia Clodia appears to have traversed this pass of the Apen- nines. This route, perhaps the least inte- resting over the Apennines in a pic- turesque view, may prove convenient to persons desu'ing to reach the baths of Lucca, sea-bathing at Spezia, &c., from Lombardy, without going round by Bologna on the E., or by Genoa on the W. The only tolerable sleeping-place will be found to be Pontremoli, which may be easily reached with vettiu'iuo horses in a summer's day from Parma. Collecchio, a village pleasantly situ- ated near the commencement of the hilly country ; there is a good Gothic church witla a iDaptistery here. From Collecchio 474 Route 43. — Berceto : Pontremoli. Sect. V. the road runs along the hills wliich bound the valley of the Taro, gradually approaching that river, to 2 posts, Fornuovo (Forum Novano- rum), at the foot of the Apennines, on the rt. bank of the Taro, at its junction with the Ceno, a considerable stream flowing from the W.S.W. There are many vestiges of Roman antiquities in the more recent buildings of Fornuovo, particularly in the walls of the prin- cipal church and some of the adjoining houses. The chm'ch is rather a good Lombard structure ; on the facade are some curious bas-reliefs, particularly one representing the Seven Mortal Sins. Fornuovo derives some celebrity from the battle fought here in 1495 between Charles YIII. of France on his return from Naples, and the Italian confede- rates under Francesco Gronzaga, Mar- quis of Mantua, when the latter were defeated with great loss, although num- bering more than fom'-fold the victo- rious army. The roads leading from Parma to Borgo Taro and JBardi sepa- rate at Fornuovo. There is an in- different Inn here (Albergo Reale) ; the people civil. The road begins to ascend rapidly after Fornuovo, over a spur of the Apennines separating the Taro and Bagnanza valleys, winding round the high hill of Monte Prinzera^ and passing through the villages of Flantogna and Cassio, 3 posts, Berceto (Lm : Albergo Reale, very poor ; the Dihgence and Vetturini generally stop here) — a picturesque ancient town in the midst of the moun- tains. The church is a Grothic building ; the piazza in front, the fountain, and the whole scene around, are singular ; this is the last town before crossing the Apennines. The road hence ascends the Bagnanza torrent to the Cisa Pass, which is very wild and desolate, at an elevation of 3420 Eng. ft. above the sea; it is supposed that it was by this pass that Hannibal penetrated into Etruria, after having defeated Sempronius on the Trebbia. We here enter the province of Upper Lunigiana. The road descends rapidly by Monte Lungo and Mignenza on the Magra, the rt. bank of which it follows to Pontremoli {Inn: II Pavone, and the Posta ; although not over clean, it is a tolerable house, vrith civil people, and the best stopping-place between Parma and Sarzana) . This city, of 3400 Inhab., which derives its name pro- bably from a shaky bridge over the Magra (Pons tremulus), offers a striking contrast to all the traveller has hitherto seen. He finds himself amongst a new race, and many buildings have a pecu- liar character. Situated in a triangle formed by the junction of the Magra and Yerde torrents, it consists of an upper and lower town, the former sur- rounded by massive and picturesque fortifications. Pontremoli, being during the middle ages as it were the key to one of the most frequented passes of the chain between Tuscany and Lom- bardy, has repeatedly changed masters. Some of the old towers were raised in 1322 by Castruccio, the lord of Lucca ; others by the Grenoese, when they held possession of the Lunigiana. It also belonged for a time to Milan ; and the armorial bearings of the Sforzas show its ancient union to that power- ful duchy. The lower town of Pon- tremoli has a more modern aspect ; the Duomo, unfinished, was begun in 1620. La Sta. Annunziata in the S. suburb was built in 1471 ; within stands a small octagonal temple of white marble and good workmanship. The other churches are modernized. Pont- remoli is 23 m. from Carrara. The road, on leaving Pontremoli, runs parallel to, but at some distance from the Magra, passing Villafranca^ where the Bagnone torrent enters it ; several fine old castellated remains are scattered over the country on each side of the river. Filattiera, between Pontremoli and Yillafranca, has an old castle, once be- longing to the Malaspinas, the feudal lords of the Lunigiana. 2 posts, Terra Eossa (no Inn), near the junction of the Coviglia and Tavarone torrents with the Magra, both of which Parma. Route 43. — Sarzana : Fosdmovo, 475 must be crossed on leaving it for Sar- zana. Do not let travellers allow them- selves to be imposed upon by the people offering assistance to cross these tor- rents, as it is unnecessary. A new road lias been recently opened from Terra Rossa to Sarzana by AuUa (the Papagallo, a poor cabaret, outside the gate, is kept by civil people) ; the country as far as Aulla is beau- tiful. After leaving this town tlie Au- letta torrent is crossed in a ferry-boat, the landing from which is bad for carriages on both sides. Sarzana Stat. (Rte. 14.) [Travellers to Lucca and Florence need not go out of then' way to Sarzana ; after crossing the Auletta, on leaving Aulla, they may enter the former duchy of Massa Carrara ; the carriage-road ascends for 5 m. to CeseranOy a small town, where a road branches off on the 1. to Fivizzano ; from Ceserano a hilly road leads by Terenzo and Tendola to Fosdmovo^ a town of 1850 Inhab., very finely situated on a projecting part of the Apennines, and offering fine views over the Mediterranean, the Gulf of Spezzia, and the shore to the eastward ; myrtles grow wild in abun- dance between Fosdinovo and the plain to the S. There is a good road of about 5 m. from Fosdinovo to Fort one, where it joins the high road from Sarzana to Lucca, 3 m. beyond the former. From Fosdinovo a considerable ascent of nearly an hour to Monte Girone, and an equal distance to Cas- tel^oggio, where there is a kind of Inn (la Pistola). From Castelpoggio the road is good and very pijcturesque as far as Can:*ara. (See Etc. 76.)] ( 477 ) SECTION VL DUCIIY OF MODENA. EOUTES. liOUTE PAGE EOUTE PAGE 50 Parma to Ueggio and Modena I 51 Modena to Pistoja, by Eari- — Rail 478 | gazzo and San Marcello . . 486 PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. § 1. History. Francesco V., Duke of Modena ("deposed in 1859), was born 1st June, 1819, and succeeded his father on the 21st January, 1846. In addition to his prin- cipal title, he was an Archduke of Austria, and Duke of Guastalla, Massa, and Carrara. His territories embraced the duchies of Modena Proper, Guastalla, and Reggio, on the N., and of Massa and Carrara, the districts of the Apennines, and Fivizzano, more recently acquired by exchange from Tuscany, on the S. The Modenese territory therefore extended from the Po to the Mediterranean, although the portion lying on the sea-coast is very small, and devoid of ports or harbours. Owing to his family ties with the House of Austria, Francesco V. espoused the imperial cause with ardour, the consequence of which has been, that, on the breaking out of the war with France and Piedmont in the spring of 1859, he was obliged to abandon his states, which, in the year following, by an almost unanimous vote, annexed themselves to the kingdom of Italy, and of which they now form the provinces of Modena, Reggio, and Massa-Carrara. § 2. Agriculture. — Commerce. — Fiistances. The Modenese territory was of somewhat greater extent than Parma. Its soil and productions are similar, except to the S. of the Appennines, where the olive and orange grow in the open air. The population by the last census amounted to 631,377 Inhab. The farms are small, and the metayer system prevails. Agriculture is the chief industry ; chesnuts form the principal food of the peasantry in the mountain districts, pollenta or porridge of Indian corn- meal in the plain. Wheat, maize, wines, olives, silk, hemp, and some flax, are the principal objects of culture. The valley of La Garfagnana is that alone in which dairy pasture is followed to any extent. Large flocks of sheep pasture on the Apennines and the slopes of the mountains, on which pine, oak, and chesnut trees abound. The vine is extensively cultivated about Reggio and Modena, from which a large quantity of wine, of a strong rough description, is exported to Lombardy. The marble of Carrara forms the most valuable article of its mineral riches. Some silk-works, linen and canvas, leather, paper, and pottery, all on an insignificant scale, comprise the manufacturing industry of this small state. Its trifling commerce is, like that of Parma, confined to an interchange of its few surplus products for colonial commodities and articles of luxury ; all of which, from both, are comprised in the trade of the surrounding maritime states. The annual revenues of Modena as an independent state, in 1858, amounted to 8,413,622 francs (336,545/f.) ; the expenditure, 8,728,133 francs (349,126/.) ; showing here, as everywhere in Italy, a deficit. § 3. Posting. — Money. The posting regulations and money are the same as in the other parts of the Kingdom of Italy. 478 Route 60. — Parma to Reggio and Modend* Sect. VI. ROUTES. ROUTE 50. PABMA TO EEGQIO AND MODENA, BY RAILWAY. KIL. . 10 Kubiera Modena S. Ilario . . Keggio . . 52 kil. := 32 m. The railway continues nearly pa- rallel to the Via Emilia. On quitting Parma fine views of the purple Apennines in the distance open on the rt. San Lazzaro ; the name of this place indicates the existence of an ancient hospital. Lepers were strictly pro- hibited from entering the city of Parma, hence the necessity of this house of refuge. The Portone di San Lazzaro, an arch which crosses the post road on the rt., was erected to commemorate the arrival of Margaret of Medici, on the occasion of her marriage with Odoardo Farnese in 1628. San Prospero, a village on the rt. ; a mile further, we cross by a long bridge the Enza torrent, furious in winter, but in summer having its course marked only by a bed of stones. About a mile further on commenced the territory of Modena, soon after which we reach 10 kil. Sant' Ilario Stat., about J a m. from the village of the same name. 5 m. S. of this lies Mordecchio, cele- brated for the birthplace of Attendolo Sforza, the father of Francesco, the founder of the great but unfortunate second dynasty of the Dukes of Milan. 1 m. N. of St. Ilario is Tancto, which preserves nearly unchanged the name of Tanetum, one of the Roman stations on the Via ^Emilia. 2 m. further cross the Crostolo, which, under the French, gave its name to the department, before reaching 18 kil. Reggio {Inns: Posta, Giglio), a flourishing city, containing upwards of 16,000 Inhab. Eegium Lepidi was founded by, or at least received the privileges of a Roman colony from, ^milius Lepidus. The devastations of Alaric, and the restoration of the city by Charlemagne, have effaced almost every vestige of antiquity. A curious Roman statue of Janus, of fairly good workmanship, but lacking both arms, is built into the corner of a house near the Palazzo dei Bechi. A statue, which is called that of Lepidus, is preserved in the Palazzo del Commune. There are several curious Roman inscriptions and cippi in the cortile and porticoes of that building. The great romantic poet of Italy was born at Reggio, and the house in which Ariosto first saw the light is, accord- ing to immemorial tradition pointed out near the Palazzo del Commune. Some, however, maintain that Ariosto must have been born within the pre- cincts of the citadel. The house itself has no appearance of age, and has nothing but the tradition to render it remarkable. The Duomo is of the 15th century. The fa9ade, which is unfinished, is ornamented with marble columns, and recumbent on the pediment of the great door are good statues of Adam and Eve, by dementi. They are larger than life, and Clementi has evidently imitated his master, Michael Angelo, in the position of the figures, which are like the ** Morning and Evening " in the Medicean Chapel at Florence; there are also statues of SS. Chrysanthus and Darius, the patron saints. Within the cathedral are several other works by Clementi: — The Tomb of Ugo Rangoni, Bishop of Reggio. He is represented larger than life, giving his blessing. By Clementi also is the bronze group at the high altar, repre- senting Christ Triumphant, and the statues of Saints Prosper, Maximus, and Catherine in the choir. Clementi himself is buried in this cathedral, under a monument by his pupil, Pac- chione, who was both a sculptor and an architect. In a chapel is a statue of Bishop Ficcarelli, who died in 1 825. It is above the ordinary run of modern provincial sculpture in Italy. Another monument is that of Francesco Marin MoDEXA. Route 50. — Parma to Reggio and Modena. 479 d'Este,late Bishop of Reggio, died 1820. He left all his property to the cathedral. Madonna della Ghiara. The plan of this church is a Greek cross. It was begun in 1597 from the designs of Balbi, and completed by racchionc, who added the vaulting of the cupola. The architectural details are good. The in- terior is covered with frescoes. Large and small there are upwards of 200 compartments thus decorated, and in good preservation. One series is by Zuca Ferrari (1605-1654), a native of Reggio, the disciple of Guido. Amongst these are several Scripture histories, which, like all the paintings throughout the church, are explained or allegorised by short mottoes ; as, for example, Re- becca at the AVell, " Hausit aquas in gaudio de fonte Sakatoris.'* Another series is by Tiarini, of Bologna (born 1577, died 1668). The painter, who lived during the greater part of his life at Reggio, was in some respects formed by the Caracci, yet preserved a distinct character. His compartments also are Scripture histories, intermixed with devices. A third series is by Lionello Spada (1576-1622), a friend, and yet in some degree a rival, of Tiarini, and to whom he was superior in colouring, but inferior in design. Spada was here in direct competition with Tiarini, and the series which he has left contains some of his most carefully executed works. By Desani (1594-1657), a pupil oi Spada, and who established himself at Reggio, is a curious series of figures, representing eight religious orders, with the virtues supposed to belong more par- ticularly to each. By Gavassetti (died 1628), several Prophets and Virtues. A Crucifixion, by Guercino, seems a fine picture, but it is dirty and ill seen. The original Madonna della Ghiara^ once an old painting upon a garden wall, has long since perished. The present one was painted in 1573, and placed in a magnificent shrine or altar, with beautiful lamps of silver suspended be- fore it. The tomb of Maria Teresa, the last descendant of the house of Cibo Malaspina, Dukes of Massa Carrara, and wife of Ercole III., was erected by her daughter, Maria Beatrix, in 1820: over it is a good bust of the deceased. The ancient Basilica of San Frospero (which stands behind the cathedral) was entirely rebuilt in the 16th century. The demolished building was in the Lombard style. Six colossal marble lions which supported the portals are still in front of the modern church. One grasps two skulls with his hind i paws ; others have the usual rams and serpents. Within, the structure is grand and regular. Fine, but damaged frescoes by Canipi and Frocaccini — amongst other subjects, the Last Judg- ment, Heaven, Purgatory, Hell— de- corate the vaultings. Other paintings are by Tiarini. In the sanctuary are some statues, a crucifix, and massive ornaments, in silver. Reggio has a good public library and a museum. In the latter are the collections of the celebrated Spallan- zani : he was born at Scandiano, within the district, and therefore the inha- bitants of the city consider him as their fellow-citizen. Reggio is also the coun try of Valisnieri,Toschi, and Paradisi. There is an active trade here in wine, silk, cheese, and hemp, so that the place has an air of prosperity. A bat- tery has been recently built on the N. side of the town which commands the line of rly. A road improved of late years, and with a military object, leads from Reggio to the shores of the Mediter- ranean by the Pass of Sassalbo, Fiviz- zano, and Sarzana, through a country offering little interest, with only one decent resting-place, at Castelnuovo nei Monte; there are no relays of post- horses upon it; it has been chiefly used hitherto by persons carrying fish from the coast of the Mediterranean to Reggio and Rubiera. Canossa, celebrated as the place where the Emperor Henry IV., after suppli- cating during three days, barefooted and bareheaded, obtained absolution from Pope Gregory VII. in 1077. The place, formerly of some importance, is now deserted; some fragments of its walls and a ch. dedicated to St. Biaggio, sur- rounded by a few cottages at the foot of its hill, alone marking the site. Not a 480 Route bO.~Modena : The Duomo. Sect. VI. trace remains of the ch. of St. Nicholas, where Henry had his interview with the Abbot of Cluny. 12 kil. Euhiera Stat., 1 m. before reaching the Secchia. This place, sur- rounded by dismantled fortifications, was a fief belonging to Bojardo, Lord of Scandiano, author of the ' Orlando Inna- morato.' There are some remains of a Koraan bridge over the Secchia. The road continues through a plain, with many vines; but, in other re- spects, with somewhat diminished fer- tility. Before reaching the Modena Stat, the railway runs close to the for- tified wall of the city on rt. 12 kil. Modena Stat., close to the New Porta del Castello, leading by a wide street to the Ducal Palace, and into the city. MODENA {Inns: Albergo Reale, a new house ; Albergo S. Marco) ; the ancient Muti/ia, possesses nothing but the features of land and stream to recall its early history. The city is situated between the rivers Secchia and Panaro. The verses of Tassoni well describe the locality : — " Modana siede in una gran pianura, Che da la parte d' Aiistro, e d' Occidente, Cerchia di baize, e di scoscese mura Del selvoso Apennin la schiena algente ; Apennin, ch' ivi tanto all' aria pura S' alza a veder nel mare il Sol cadente, Che su la fronte sua cint.-. di gelo Par die s' incur vi, e che riposi il cielo. Da r Oriente ha le fiorite sponde Del bel Panaro, e le sue limpid' acque, Bologna incontro, e a la sinistra 1' onde, Dove il figlio del Sol gia morto giacque, Secchia ha da l' Aquilon, che si confonde Ne' giri, che mutar sempre la piacque ; Divora i liti, e d' infeconde arene Semina i prati, e le campagne amene." Secchia Rapita, canto i., st. 8, 9. [A few hours, indeed for many tra- vellers the interval between two suc- cessive railway trains, will suffice to visit the most interesting objects at Modena : the best plan in that case will be to hire a carriage at the railway station, and to adopt the following itinerary ; — Ducal Falace, Pinacoteca and Library; Ch. of 8. Vincenzo ; Duomo ; Piazza Muratori ; Ch. of S. Agostino ; Museo Lapidario ; Piazza d'Armi, and Citadel; returning by the Corso della Via Emilia, and along the ramparts.] The city, which contains about 30,000 Inhab., is fortified, and the ramparts, though destitute of strength, ofi'er a very pleasant walk. The views of the Appenines from them are pecu- liarly fine. The Citadel, and its Piazza d'Armi, include perhaps one-third of the area of the city, which possesses a character differing much from the other Lombard towns in its domestic architecture, it being more of a German cast. The Duomo. " This splendid build- ing was begun in 1099, at the instance and Avith the assistance of the cele- brated Countess Matilda, of whose vast possessions Modena formed a part. In 1108 the work was so far advanced that in that year the body of St. Gemi- nianus, the patron saint of Modena, was translated into the new Basilica, which was at the same time conse- crated by Pope Pascal IL, in the pre- sence of the Countess Matilda. The bulk of the fabric therefore belongs to the close of the 11th century. The name of the architect was Lanfrancus, as is shown by an inscription on one of the outer walls. The style is Lom- bard throughout. External arcades ornament both the W. end and the great semicircular apse. In the in- terior, monsters and grotesque images are still retained in the capitals of some of the pillars. But a feature which is not found in the old Lombard churches may be remarked here, in the large projecting porch, two stories in height, which advances before the principal entrance ; and in the lions, on the backs of which the pillars of the porch rest. Though projecting porches were an essential part of the primitive churches, they seem to have been aban- doned under the Lombard dynasty, and not to have been resumed till the 11th century, when they became uni- versal. The lions are symbolical. They were intended to represent the strength and vigilance of the Church. At a later period the animals which were introduced in the porches often repre- sented the arms of the state to which the bnilding belonged. For example, the griffin is the crest of Perugia, and the wolf that of Sienna, Perugia and Modena. Uoate 50. — Modena, 481 GATB TO BOLOGNA. CUURCUES. Public Buildings, &c, ; 1. Duomo or Cathedral. 2. 8. Agostino. 8. S. Domenico. 4. 8. Francesco. 6. II Cannine. 6. 8. Pietro. 7. S. Vincenzo. 8. Ducal Palace. 9. Picture Gallery. 10. University. 11. Museo Lapidario, 12. Theatre. 13. Post Office. N, Italy—lsed. THE imm Of THE MODENA* Eoute 50. — Modena : The Duomo. 483 Sienna were constantly at war : in con- sequence, the doorway of the Palazzo Publico of Perugia is decorated with a griffin tearing a wolf." " On either side of the nave there are galleries. Under the chancel is a lofty crypt. To gain elevation for the crypt, the chancel is approached by several steps, as at S. Miniato (near Florence) and elsewhere. The portals exhibit ornaments and bas-reliefs of different periods, from the 12th down to the 14th century. The earliest are executed with little skill, though they must have excited great admiration at the time, as an inscription pre- serves the name of the artist. Over the head of one of the figures, at one of the side-doors, appears the name of Artres de Bretania — a proof that the legends of romance were papular in Italy in the 12th century." — G. Knight. The sculptures on the doorway of the fa9ade are extremely rude, and re- present Adam and Eve, the Creation of Eve, the Fall, and other Scripture histories. A city walled and turreted, assailed by knights with the pointed shields and conical helmets of the 11th century, and whose names are written in barbarous characters. Here are the names of some of the heroes of the round table. Some ancient Roman in- scriptions and tombs are built into the fa9ade. Behind the altar of the crypt is the tomb of St. Geminianus. 1'he crypt has been altered. The marble columns in the church itself have capi- tals approaching Corinthian. The paintings in the Duomo are in general below mediocrity. It contains, however, some good works of art. The screen of red marble on either side of the choir, consisting of a range of small double columns, supporting a species of balustrade, is peculiar. An altar- piece in the 2nd chapel on l.,in the style of the Renaissance, in terra-cotta, with abundance of curious small statues. Another altarpiece, in 3rd chapel on 1., contains the earliest known specimen of Modenese art. It is by Serafino clei Serafini da Modena, and was executed 1385. It is hard and dry, and more than usually Byzantine. The pulpit is of marble, sculptured, 1322, by Tornaso Fcrri, called also T. da Modena; the small statues on it are of a subsequent period ; the tarsia-work of the stalls in the choir, executed in 1465, is worthy of notice. Near the sacristy, in a niche behind and above an altar, is a good group of the Nativity, in terra-cotta, by Bcga- relli (1518). So many of the works of this artist have perished, that this is kept shut up, but it will be opened by the sacristano. The tombs in this cathedral are interesting. Several, belonging to the Rangoni family, are of a good period of art. That of Claudio Rangoni, on 1. of the choir, designed by GiuUo Romano, consists simply of a sarco- phagus beneath a canopy. Two angels, supporting a tablet on which the letters I.H.S. are inscribed, and a similar one below, constitute its only ornaments. Claudio, who died 1537, at the age of 29, succeeded his father, Francesco Maria, as Count of Castelvetro. He was a great protector of literature, and married Lucretia, a daughter of the celebrated Pico della Mirandola, who erected this monument to his me- mory. The tomb of Lucia Rusca Ran* goni, his mother^ is even more simple — a vase resting upon a sarcophagus. This is also from a design of Giulio Ro- mano. In a recess, on the 1. of the upper ch., is a monument to Ercole Rinaldoj the 1 3th and last duke of the House of Este in the male line. Deprived of his dominions at the French invasion, a principality was erected for him in the Brisgau, but he would not accept this compensation, and died as a private individual at Treviso, 14th Oct. 1803. He married Maria Teresa Cibo, Sove- reign Princess of Massa Carrara, the last heiress of the House o^ Cibo Mala- spina. They had an only child, Maria Beatrix, who married Archduke Fer- dinand of Austria. The duchy of Modena had been previously secured to her by the treaty of Versailles. She diedatVienna, 1829, at an advanced age. The lately deposed sovereign of Modena, Francesco V., is her grandson. The mo- nument is by Pisani, a native sculptor. The facade of the Duomo towards the S., overlooking the market-place, in which has been recently placed a Y2 484 Route 50. — Modena: The Ducal Palace. Sect. VI. statue of the poet Tassoni, has two fine and deep portals ; one with quad- ruple bound columns, and very elabo- rate ornamental work round the door. At the S.E. extremity of this side of the church are four bas-reliefs representing events in the life of S. Geminianus ; amongst others, his ex- pelling the Devil from the Daughter of the Emperor Jovinian ; they were sculptured, as we see by an inscription, in 1442, by a certain Augastuius de Florentid. *' The Campanile, or Ghirlandina, as it is called, from the bronze garland which surrounds the weathercock, is 315 ft. high, and is one of the four towers of which the North of Italy has reason to be proud. Whether it was undertaken at the same time with the church is uncertain ; but the square part of it must have been complete in 1224, for in that year it was seized upon by one of the factions who at that time disturbed the peace of Modena. The upper pyramidal part was only finished in 1319." — G. Knight. In this tower is preserved suspended by an iron chain the old Avormeaten Secchia, or the wooden bucket, taken by the Modenese from the Bolognese in the battle, or rather affray, of Zap- polino, Nov. 15, 1325 ; it was deposited here by the victors, the Geminiani, as a trophy of the defeat of the Fetroniani, with wonderful triumph, as described in Tassoni's celebrated poem ; — ** Quivi Manfredi in su 1' altar maggiore Pose la Secchia con divozione : E poi ch' egli, ed il clero, e Monsignore Fecero al Santo lunga orazione, Fu levata la notte a le tre ore, E dentro un;i cassetta di cotone Ne la tone maggior fu riserrata, Dove si trova ancor vecchia e tarlata. Ma la Secchia fa subito portata Ne la torre maggior, dove ancor stassi In alto per trofea posta, e legata Con una gran catena a curvi sassi. S' entra per cinque porte ov' e guardata, E lion h cavalier, die di la passi, Ne pellegrin di conto, il qual non voglia Veder si degna e gloriosa spoglia." Secchia Rapitay cant. i. 63. The Modenese and Bolognese were re- spectively called Geminiani and Fetro- niani, from their patron saints Gemi- nianus and Petronius. Ch. of S. Agostino, near the gate leading to Reggio, recently converted into a gymnasium. The remarkable group of the Deposition from the Cross, in painted terra-cotta, by Be- garelli, formerly here, has been re- moved to the Museo Lapidario. The figures, as large as life, are full of animation. *' If this eiay could be- come marble,'' exclaimed Michael Angelo, '* woe to the antique ! " ** Se la creta delle figure di costiii diventasse marmo, guai alle statue antiche 1 " Mura- tori is buried in this ch. A statue has been raised to him in an open space oif the Corso, called the Piazza Mu- ratori, with the inscription, k L. A. Muratori— La Patria, 1853. Near the ch. of S. Agostino is the large Palace, called the Monte dei Fegni, which con- tains the ofiices of the charitable esta- lishments of the city. Under the porticoes round the court, and on the ground floor, have been arranged a series of Roman and Mediaeval monu- ments and sculptures which constitute the Museo Lapidario. There are a good many Roman inscriptions, several huge Mediaeval Sarcophagi, the greater number from desecrated churches. Ch. of S. Vincenzo contains the tomb of the late Duchess of Modena, a work of merit, and of other members of the ducal family, Ch. of S. Domenico, near the palace, wa§ the Chapel Royal of the court. The Ducal Falace was begun in the 17th century. Much was added by the late Duke, and it is now a fine building. It contains numerous courts, with open staircases, galleries, arches upon arches, such as are seen in the background of old Italian pictures. The most interesting portion of this pile to the traveller is that containing the Picture Gallery (Galleria Estense), situated as well as the library in the uppermost story of the N.W. wing ; the entrance is by a side door opening out of the Corso Cavour ; both are open daily to strangers and students. The collection of paintings is large, exceeding 500 specimens, arranged in 13 rooms. There is a very good cata- logue ; each specimen has attached to it the name of the artist, and the period MODENA.' Route 50.' — Modena : Picture Gallery, 485 when he lived ; the description of the subject and the history -svill be found in the catalogue. Besides the paintings there as an extensive series of orujinal draiciwjs of the old masters. The fol- lowing are the most worthy of notice : Passing through an Anteroom, I., where there is nothing worthy of notice, we reach Room II. — 24. Simone da Bologna : a Madonna and Child. — 26. Masaccio: a Portrait. — 27. Mantegna: 2 Warriors and a female called Lucretia. — 33. Gher^^dof Haarlem: a curious old paint- ing of the Crucifixion. — 34. Montagna : the Virgin with the two Saint Johns. — 3.5. Giov. Bellini: a Holy Family. — 39. Giacomo Francia : the Assumption. — 42. Lor^enzo dl Bicci: an interesting Flo- rentine Master of the 15th century; a Madonna and Child. — Spinello Aretino: 3. Marriage, interesting for the costumes. — 5. B. Zoschi: a Modenese Master little known out of his native district ; the Madonna and Child, painted for Prince Pio di Carpi in 1515, as stated on the inscription. — 58. Marco Melloni: another native painter ; the same sub- ject painted in 1504. Room III. — Nicolo delV Abate : eight Landscapes originally painted for a room in the feudal castle of the Boi- ardos, at Scandiano. — 66. Correggio : the medallion on the vault, representing Ganymede, was originally in the Castle or Rocca of Novellara, from which it was removed by the late Duke of Modena. There is another series of subjects from the ^Eneid in this room by Nicolo deW Abate, also from the Castle of Scandiano. They contain some family portraits. Room IV. — Chiefly subjects of the Venetian School. The five paintings on the roof are attributed to Tintoretto, as is 118. A Virgin and Saints. — 123. Giorgione : the Portrait of a Female, not unlike the so-called Fornarina, in the Gallery of Florence. — 125. Paris Bordone : the Adoration of the Magi. — 128. Paolo Veronese: his own Portrait. — 129. Palma Vecchio : the Madonna and Saints. — 141. Bonifazio Bembo : the Adoration of the Magi. — 143. Cima da Conegliano : a good Deposition. — 1 1 4, | 1 1 7. Titian : Portraits attributed to him. Room V. — Chiefly works of the Bo- lognese School. — 145. Gcnnari: a good Half-figure. — 147? A. Sirani: S. Francis. — 149. Guido : a fine Crucifixion; the back-ground in awful darkness has a fine effect.— 163. Guercino: St. Peter. — 164. Lud. Caracci: the Assumption of the Virgin. — 169. Simone da Pesaro : the Supper in Emmaus. Room VI.— Chiefly of the School of Ferrara. — 171. Bosso Bossi: Judith, and 176, the Nativity.— 172. Garofalo : the Crucifixion; and 189, a Madonna and Saints, one of whom is San Contardo d'Este; it is signed and dated 1532. — 196. A Female Portrait by the same; and 191, 192, 195. Bosso Bossi: por- traits of Alphonso 1st and 2nd Duke.s of Ferrara. Room VII. — Profane subjects of the Bolognese School, — 201. Lud. Caracci: Flora. — 204. An. Caracci: Venus. — 206. Guercino : Venus seated. — 207. id.^ Ammon and Thamar. — 210. Albani: a lovely picture of Aurora. — 213. Lud, Caracci: Galatea.— 215, 217, 218. Por- traits by Guercino: thelast of Cardinal Mazarin. Room VIII. — A large collection of Tableaux de Genre of different Schools. — 237. Attributed to Claude. — 246. A good Teniers, and 231, an interior of the same. — 222. Van Helmont : an Ec- clesiastic distributing Alms to the Poor ; some Canalettis, &c. &c. Room IX. — Paintings of Bifferent Schools. — 297. Andrea del Sarto: a Holy Family. — 298. B. Luini: Our Lord, the hand upon a Globe. — 302. Le Brun : the Sons of Madian. — 309. Fo. Vanni: the Marriage of St. Catherine. — 320. Luke of Legden: a good Madonna and Child. Room X., or Grand Hall (Salon Grande). — This fine saloon contains all the larger paintings of the different schools. — 327. F. Procaccini: the Cir- cumcision. — 366. Bosso Bossi: the Virgin and Child. — C. Procaccini: the Adoration of the Magi. — 341. Guercino: the Marriage of St. Catherine. — 342. J. Tintoretto : Daphne pursued by Apollo. — 345. Bosso Bossi: a large Madonna. — 348. Leonello Spado: Young Men in strange dresses ; and 365, St. Francis offering flowers to the Virgin and Child. 486 Route 51. — Modem, to Pistoja. Sect. VI. — 353. Tiarini: a Crucifixion. — 355. Guercino: the same subject. — 370. Fo- marancio ; the Dead Saviour on the Cross, with the Maries, and St. John; one of the painter's finest works. — 373. Guido: St. Roch in prison. — 371. Guer- cino: the Madonna and Child with a Capuchin Friar. — 385. Bern. Strozzi: S. Francis, Rooms XL and XII. are devoted to the Modenese Masters. — 391, 444, by Donini of Correggio. — 397 . Sassuolo. — 400. Carnevale. — 450, 455, Lelio Orsi da Novellara. — 402. Nicolo dell* Abate. — 403. Pellegrino da Modena, — 423. Bernardo Cervi. Room (XIII.) is filled with small paintings. — 456. Cavedone: a Virgin and Saints.— 461. The Head of a Child, attributed to Correggio. — 452. Fra Bar' tolomraeo : a Madonna. Room XIV. contains sundry objects of vertu, carved ivories, majolicas, &c. Beyond the collection of paintings, and leading to the library, is a long gallery, the walls of which are covered with Drawings by the Old Masters, There are specimens by Titian, Giulio Ro- mano, Tintoretto, Michael Angelo, Pordenone, Molosso, Guido, the Ca- raccis, Parmegianino, Luca Cambiaso, Baroccio, Mantegna, Bronzino, Leo- nardo da Vinci, Passarotti ; the whole length of the wall, on one side of this gallery, is occupied by a narrow series of drawings of the bas-reliefs on the column of Trajan, at Rome, executed by Giulio BomanOy for Alfonso d'Este, Duke of Ferrara. This very interest- ing treasure of the House of Este was carried to Paris, with several of the paintings in the gallery, and restored in 1815 to their rightful owners. The Biblioteca Estense, or library, brought from Ferrara by Cesare d'Este on his expulsion by Clement VIII., is rich in books (100,000 vols.) and manu- scripts (3000). Three of the most learned men in Italy during the last century, Zaccaria, Tiraboschi, and Mu- ratori, have been its librarians. At- tached to the library is a large col- lection of 25,000 coins and medals; it was carried oif by the Duke of Modena, on being driven away in J859, as well as 12 very valuable illu- minated MSS.; those of the Divina Commedia, and the Bible, amongst the number, and a few of the most valuable paintings in the Galleria: the whole returned in 1868. The library is well arranged and very available for readers. The Archivio Estense, containing seve- ral important documents of mediaeval history, is in another part of the palace. Diligence from Modena to Mantua early every morning. ROUTE 51. MODENA TO PISTOJA, BY BAEIGAZZO AND SAN MAKCELLO. This is a long dreary road, through a country offering little interest except to the geologist. It traverses the cen- tral chain of the Apennines three times. On the northern side of the Apennines it was, generally speaking, in bad re- pair where it runs through the Mo- denese territory ; the contrary being the case with the Tuscan portion. There are no post-horses ; but vetturini some- times travel by it, employing two days and a half between Pistoja and Modena; and a diligence runs 3 times a week between Modena and Pistoja, perform- ing the journey in a day. Were it kept in better repair it would offer, now that the railway is completed between Pis- toja and Florence, advantages to the traveller going from Verona and the Italian Tyrol to the shores of the Mediterranean. The road leaves Modena by the Porta di San Francesco. Formigine, a town of 1800 Inhab., is the first stage, 9 m. from Modena, on the plain, in a district rich in grain, vines, and mulberry-trees. Marinello, 5 m. farther, on entering the hilly region. Paullo or Favullo, a town, 35 m, from Modena. The Duke of Modena had a handsome villa near this. 4 m. further on, th^ road, which had hitherto MODENA. Boute 51. — Modena to Pistoja, 4B7 run nearly S., changes its direction to AV.S.W., turning abruptly round the picturesque hill of Montecucnllo, with a castle on the summit, the birthplace (in 1609) of the celebrated military commander Monte- cuculli, the rival of Turenne and Conde'. A dreary road of 15 m., through a pasture country, leads to Barigazzo^ a small hamlet, near to which are emanations of carburetted hydrogen gas, similar to those near Pietramala, on the road from Bologna to Florence, and which ignites on a light being applied to it. Ascending along the Scoltenna torrent we reach Pieve Pelago, a village of 1800 Inhab., in a cold inhospitable region ; and 7 m. higher up the hamlet of Fiumalho. Here the principal ascent of the Apen- nines commences, having the Monte Cimone, the highest peak of this part of the chain, about 4 m. on the 1. The most elevated point of the road is at the Col dell' Abbetone, or del Lihro Aperto. Here we enter the Tuscan territory (Pistoja being 35 m. distant), and after a rapid descent of 7 m. reach Cutigliano, a village of 1200 Inhab., on the liima river, which we follow as far as San Marcello, a prosperous town on the Limastre. There are several paper- mills in the neighbourhood. A road leads down the ravine of the Lima to the Baths of Lucca. There is a road of 22 m. through a beautiful country from San Marcello to Peseta by Petiglio. From San Marcello the road to Pis- toja runs easterly, ascending again the central chain by Bardelone^ to descend to Ponte Petri, a village near the bridge on the Reno, not far from its source. Here we are again on the N. declivity of the Apennines. From Ponte Petri (Pons Presby- teris) the road ascends along the Reno, to the hamlet of Piastre, from which a good road runs to the Rly. Stat, at Pracchia, Piastre is near the Pass of the Apennines, one of the lowest in the chain, 2650 feet above Pistoja, from which commences the descent towards the plain of the Arno, passing through the neat village of Cireglio, and following the declivity of the ridge that bounds on the W. the valley of the Ombrone, through forests of chesnut- trees succeeded by plantations of vines and olives. 2 m. before reaching Pistoja the Ombrone is crossed at Burgianico, Pistoja, (See Rte. 77.) THE IIBWRY ( 489 ) SECTION VIL LA EOMAaNA. EOUTE 56. 57. 58. 59, 60, 61 62 Routes. PAGE EOUTE Mantua to Ferrara . .490 Modeiia to Ferrara . .493 Padua to Ferrara . .493 Ferrara to Bologna, by Rail . 493 Ferrara to Bologna, by Cento 508 Modena to Bologna — Rail . 509 Bologna to Florence, by Pie* tramala and the Pass of la Fiita . . • 63. Bologna to Florence, by La Porretta — Rail . 64. Faenza to Florence, by Mar- radi and Bcrgo S. Lorenzo 561 65. Florence to Forli, by Bico- viano and the Pass of S. 554 557 PAGE Benedetto . . • 562 66. Forli to Ravenna . ,563 67. Faenza to Ravenna . .563 68. Bologna to Ravenna, by Imola and Lugo . . .564 69. Bologna to Ravenna, by Me- dicina and Lugo . .567 69a. Bologna to -Brtve^ina, by Rail 567 70. Venice to Ravenna, by the Canals and Comacchio . 589 ,71. Ravenna to Rimini, by Cervia 592 72i Bologna to Lmola, Faenza, Forli, Cesena, Rimini, with Excursion to San Marino—r Rail . . . .593 PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. History,' — Money. — Railroads. Under the name of Romagna are included all the former possessions of the Holy See on the northern side of the Apennines, which constituted, in the most recent division of the Pontifical States, the Legation of La Romagna, consist- ing of the four Delegations, now Provinces, of Bologna, Ferrara, Ravenna, and Forli. This territory, one of the most luxuriant in Italy, containing a popu- lation of 1,040,574, extends from the Duchy of Modena, on the W., to the Adriatic, and from the Po to the N. declivity of the Apennines, where it limits with Tuscany. These provinces, which had been acquired at different times by the popes, partly by cessions from Pepin and Charlemagne (Ravenna), partly by a pre- tended suzerainty over- some of their feudal rulers, on the extinction of their families in the male line (Ferrara), and others by violence, as in the case of the free towns of Bologna, Forli, &c., formed for upwards of three centuries the Northern Legations of the Holy See. In consequence of the discontent that reigned, and the inability of the government of Rome to maintain its power over the populations without foreign intervention, the assistance of Austria had been resorted to, and, in addition to the garrisons which that empire was authorized to maintain at Ferrara and Comacchio by the treaty of Vienna, she held military rule Y 3 490 Route 56. — Mantua to Ferrara, Sect. VII, over the Romagna from 1848 until 1859, exercising a degree of arbitrary rule which not only created a deadly animosity against the German protectors of the Holy See, but extreme hatred of the Papal rule. When, therefore, the Austrian protecting force was obliged, arising out of the military events of 1859, to withdraw, a general rising against the pontifical authorities im- mediately followed. Juntas were formed in all the larger towns, and sub- sequently a central one at Bologna, which, during a period of considerable diffi- culty, governed the Romagna with great moderation and ability. In August, 1859, a parliament, elected by universal sufcage, was called together by this governing Junta, which met on the 2nd of September, and declared unanimously their separation for ever from the government of Rome. The same question having been re-submitted to universal suffrage on the 12th of March, 1860, the country declared, by an almost unanimous vote, its desire to form a part of the Italian monarchy, a declaration which was accepted by King Victor Emanuel and the parliament then sitting at Turin. The territorial divisions of the Romagna have undergone no alteration since its annexation to the kingdom of Italy, consisting of the four provinces of Bologna, Ferrara, Ravenna, and Forli. Railroads. — The 2 principal lines are — that which runs parallel to the Via Emilia from Piacenza by Parma and Bologna to Rimini and Ancona, with branches from Bologna to Ferrara and the Po, and from Castel Bolognese to Ravenna ; and the Railway which crosses the chain of the Apennines, ascending the valley of the Reno, to gain the Maria Antonia line at Pistoia on their southern declivity. ROUTES. ROUTE 66. MANTUA TO FERRARA. MILES. Mantua to Governolo .... 13 Governolo to Sermide .... 13 Sermide to Bondeno .... 15 Bondeno to Ferrara 15 56 Eng. m. The old post-road from Mantua to Ferrara followed that to Padua as far as Nogara (1 post), whence it turned southward to Ostiglia, crossing the Po between it and Revere, The present route follows the 1. bank of the Mincio to Governolo, near where it falls into the Po. Governolo. Leaving this place, the road skirts the 1. bank of the Po as far as Ostiglia, which it crosses to Revere. It then follows the rt. bank, passing by Borgoforte, as far as Sermide. 8 m. farther on is Stellata, from which the road follows the 1. bank of the Panaro to Bondeno, a town on the 1. bank of the Panaro. The road from here to Ferrara lies through a flat, well -irri- gated country, passing along the canal or Po di Volano, by Vigarano, Cassana and Mizzana, to Ferrara, described in Rte. 59. THE imm Of \m 492 Boute 58. — Ferrara. Sect, VII. Churches. 1. Duomo or Cathedral. 2. S. Andrea. 3. S. Benedetto. 4. Capuccini. 5. Corpus Domini. T), S. Cristofero. 7. S. Domenico. 8. S. Gaetano (Teatini) 9. S. Francesco. 10. II Gesu. 11. S. M. inVado. 12. S. Paolo. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &C. 13. Castle. 14. Pinacoteca and Ateneo. 16. University. 16. Accademia Ariostea. 17. Hospital and Prison of Tasso, and Pal. Roverella. 18. House of Ai'iosto. » 19. Post Office. 20. Theatre. 21. Pal. Mazza. EoMAGNA. Boutes 57, 59. — Modena and Ferrara to Bologna, 493 ROUTE 57- MODENA TO FERRARA. MILES. ^lodena to Bomporto .... 8 Bomporto to Finale 16 Finale to Bondeno 10 Bondcno to Ferrara 15 49 Eiig. m. The road follows the banks of the Panaro for the first 3 stations. Bomporto. From here it proceeds through Campo Santo and Cb, de' Coppi to Finale, situated on either side of the Panaro, which is here crossed. 3 m. farther on are Serragliolo and Sajita Bianca, from which the road soon reaches Bondeno, where it falls into the road fi'om Mantua. Bondeno. From here we follow the bank of the Fo dl Volano to Ferrara (Rte. .59). ROUTE 58. PADUA TO TERRARA. This Route, now entirely performed by railway, is described under Rte. 33. ROUTE 59. THE PO, BY FERRARA TO BOLOGNA, BY RAIL. Ponte di Lago Scuro to kil. Ferrara .... 7 PoGtgio Renatico . . 14 Galliera . . . . 22 S. Hetro in Casale . . 32 San Giorgio ... 33 Castel Maggiore . . 38 Corticella . . . .41 Bologna , . . .51 51 kil. = 02 m. Ferrara, the Forum Allieni of Tacitus. — {Inns: La Stella d'Oro, '' clean bed-rooms (0. F., Oct., 1867), and good, opposite the Castle: Al- bergo deir Europa, opposite the Post Office.) Few cities ranking among the ancient Italian capitals are so much neglected by travellers as Fer- rara, and yet few are more asso- ciated with interesting recollections. It is situated in a fertile but unhealthy plain, at a level of only G^ ft. above the sea, and at a short distance from the Po, which forms here the boundary between the Austro-Venetian and the North-Italian kingdoms. This plain, intersected only by irrigation canals from the river, presents an unbroken horizon, and extends, with little varia- tion, up to the walls of Ferrara. ^ The aspect of the city, once the re- sidence of a court celebrated through- out Europe, still retains many traces of its ancient grandeur. The broad, and ample streets appear like those of a deserted capital; grass grows on the pavement, the palaces are falling into decay, and the walls, 7 miles in circuit, which once contained nearly 100,000 souls, now enclose scarcely one-third of that number. The population is collected together in the centre of the city, and thinly scattered over the remaining portion. Ravenna itself is scarcely more fallen than Ferrara, although it was the great commercial emporium of Italy during the middle ages, the citta bene avven- turosa of Ariosto, the gi^an donna del Po of Tassoni. The modern city is supposed to have been founded in the .5th century, when the invasion of the Huns and the de- struction of Aquileja drove the inha- bitants into the marshes for security. Its walls were built in the 6th cen- tury by the Exarchs of Ravenna, and it was raised to the rank of a city in 661, when the bishopric of Vigovenza was transferred to it. But the chief interest of Ferrara arises from its con- nection with the house of Este. As far back as the 10th century we find this family connected with Ferrara; first as supreme magistrates, and after- wards as hereditary princes (1240), acknowledging generally the suze- rainty of the Pope, though some- 494 Route 59 *~.Ferrara : School of ArL Sect. VII. times asserting their independence. It remained under their sway until the extinction of the legitimate branch in 1597, in the person of Alfonso 11. ; and in the following year it was annexed to the States of the Church by Clement VIII., on the pretext that Cesare d'Este, the representative of the family by a col- lateral line, was disqualified by illegiti- macy. During the 1 6th centy. the Court of Ferrara was unsurpassed by any in Europe for its refinement and intelligence ; its University was re- no wned throughout Christendom, and so many English students were collected within its walls as to form, as they did in Bologna, a distinct nation in that learned body. But there are greater names associated with the history of Ferrara at this period than those of its princely sovereigns. "Melancholy as the city looks now, every lover of Italian poetry,'* says Forsyth, *'must view with affection the retreat of an Ariosto, a Tasso, a Guarini. Such is the ascent of wealth over genius, that one or two princes could create an Athens in the midst of this Boeotia. The little courts of Ferrara and Urbino seemed to emulate those of Alexan- dria and Pergamos, contending for pre- eminence only in literature and ele- gance."' 77ie Ferrara School of Painting, founded and patronised by the Este family, deserves some notice in con- nection with this tribute to the intellec- tual history of the city. It is observed by Lanzi that Ferrara boasts of a series of excellent painters, far superior to its fortunes and population ; a circum- stance which will not excite surprise when we consider the series of poets which it cherished, from Bojardo and Ariosto down to our own times, a sure criterion of accomplished and refined minds more than ordinarily disposed towards the fine arts. To this cir- cumstance, and to the good taste of the inhabitants in their patronage of art, may be added the favourable posi- tion of the city, in its contiguity to Venice, Parma, and Bologna, and its convenient distance from Florence and Rome; so that its students were en- abled to select from the different schools of Italy what was most con- genial to the tastes of each, and to profit by their several excellences. So great, indeed, was the influence of this latter circumstance, that Zanetti considered it doubtful whether, after the 5 great schools, Ferrara did not claim precedence over all the others. The first fact recorded in connection with the fine arts at Ferrara is the commis- sion given by Azzo d'Este, in 1242, to the Venetian painter Gelasio di Niccolo, a pupil of the Greek artist Teofane of Constantinople, for a pic- ture of the Fall of Phaeton. In the 14th century, when Giotto passed through Ferrara, on his way from Verona to Florence, he was employed by the Duke to paint some frescoes in his palace and in the church of St. Agostino, which were still in existence in the time of Vasari. After the lapse of some years, during which several names are mentioned which have sur- vived their works, Galasso Galassi appeared early in the 15th century; his works are chiefly confined to Bo- logna, and none are now found in his native city. He was followed by An- tonio da Ferrara, known by his works at Urbino and Citta di Castello, who painted some chambers in the palace of Alberto d'Este in 1438, at the time when the General Council was held there for the union of the Greek and Latin churches, and A^ich is sup- posed to have supplied him with his subject. But the most celebrated of the early painters was Cosimo Tura, the pupil of Galassi, employed at the court of Borso d'Este : his minute and elaborate work is admirably shown in the miniatures of the choir-books preserved in the cathedral. Among the painters of this period may be mentioned Lorenzo Costa, the reputed pupil of Francia, and Francesco Cossa, both known by their works at Bologna. Costa, indeed, may be regarded as the true father of the school ; for the series of painters from his time may be clearly traced; and Lanzi classes him among the first masters of Italy. His most eminent pupil was Ercole Grandi, w^hose great work, painted for the Gargauelli chapel, ROMAGNA. Boute 59. — Ferrara : ScJiool of Art, 495 is now preserved iu the Academy of Fine 1 Arts at Bologna. Lodovico INIazzolini, better known as Mazzolini da Ferrara, I another pupil of Costa, is known by his works in various galleries ; and Dome- nico Panetti, the master of Garofalo, is remarkable for having become the pupil of his own scholar, and for the works he produced after his style had been remodelled on the example of Garofalo. The school of Ferrara was at its height under the latter painter and the two Dossis, in the early part of the sixteenth century, when Alfonso d*Este was the patron of literature and art. This prince had invited Titian to decorate his palace ; and, among other celebrated paintings, the " Cristo della Moneta," now in the Dresden Gallery, was painted during his stay at Ferrara. Dosso Dossi, and his brother Giobat- tista, born at Dosso, in the vicinity of Ferrara, were among the earliest patron- ised by Alfonso and his successor Ercole II. ; and their merit is sufficiently at- tested by the fact that Ariosto has men- tioned them as amongst the best painters of Italy. Ortolano is another painter of this school, whose works are often confounded with those of Garofalo ; he is known as a successful imitator of Raphael ; some of his works are yet seen in his native city. Benvenuto Tisio, better known by the name of Garofalo, from the pink which he introduced into his paintings, stands at the head of the Ferrarese school, and is justly called the Raphael of Ferrara : some of his most celebrated works are still here. His pnpil, Girolamo da Carpi, recommended to Ercole II. by Titian himself, and whose oil paintings were of extreme rarity in the time of Lanzi, may also be studied at Ferrara. While these two artists excelled in the graces of the art, Bastianino, or Bastiano Filippi, was introducing the style of Michel An- gelo, as seen in the grand picture of the Last Judgment in the cathedral. Another painter of this school, Scar- sellino, who was called the Paul Ve- ronese of Ferrara, and who studied under that master, has left some works in his native place ; he is, however, better known by those preserved in the galleries at Rome. Giuseppe Mazzuoli, known by the surname of Bastaruolo, and the contemporary of Bastianino, was called the Titian of Ferrara : we shall hereafter see that he has left behind him several works by which his claim to that title may be appreciated. Ferrara like- wise contains some interesting examples of Domenico Mona, and of his able pupil Giulio Cromer, or Croma, who was selected to copy the principal paint- ings in the city, when the originals were transferred to Rome, after Cle- ment VIII. had seized upon Ferrara and attached it to the Church. After this event the school rapidly declined for want of patronage. Some Bo- lognese masters endeavoured, with little success, to introduce the style of the Caracci; Carlo Bonone, the scholar of Bastaruolo, was perhaps the most celebrated follower of this new manner ; his works in Sta. Maria in Vado are highly praised by Lanzi for that kind of foreshortening called di sotto in sUf where figures are supposed to be seen above the eye. Another artist, worthy of mention as a follower of Bonone, is Chenda, or Alfonso Rivarola, who was employed, at the recommen- dation of Guido, to finish some of Bonone's works, but was better known by his decorations for public spectacles and tournaments. It is unnecessary to enumerate any of the painters whose names appear in the subsequent history of this school, for Ferrara never reco- vered the change of masters; and its school gradually declined, until, at length, in spite of the establishment of an academy, it became completely ex- tinct. Notwithstanding, however, this decline and the loss of its political influence, Ferrara still retains many interesting examples of the school, which will be noticed in our description of the city. In addition to the brilliancy of its court and the celebrity of its school of art, Ferrara offers no inconsiderable interest to the English traveller for the impulse which it gave to the Reforma- tion. The names of Ariosto and Tasso have almost eclipsed the recollection of that event, and of the asylum given to Calvin and to Marot by the Duchess 496 Eoute 59. — Ferrara : Reformation. Sect. VII. Renee, the high-minded daughter of Louis XII., and the wife of Ercole 11. At an early period Ferrara afforded pro- tection to numerous friends of the Re- formed Faith who fled from other parts of Italy, and even from countries be- yond the Alps, a circumstance to be ascribed to the influence of the ac- complished princess just mentioned, who had become acquainted with the doctrines of the Reformers previous to her departure from France in 1527, by means of some of those learned persons who frequented the court of Margaret Queen of Navarre. *' The first persons to whom she extended her protection and hospitality were her own country- men, whom the violence of persecution had driven out of France. Mad. de Sou- bise, the governess of the duchess, had introduced several men of letters into the court of France during the late reign. She now resided at the court of Ferrara, along with her son, Jean de Parthenai, sieur de Soubise, afterwards a principal leader of the Protestant party in France; her daughter, Anne de Parthenai, dis- tinguished for her elegant taste; and the future husband of this young lady, Antoine de Pons, Count de Marennes, who adhered to the reformed cause until the death of his wife. In the year 1534 the celebrated French poet Clement Marot fled from his native country, in consequence of the persecution excited by the atfair of the placards ; and, after residing for a short time at the court of the Queen of Navarre, in Beam, came to Ferrara. He was recommended by Madame de Soubise to the duchess, who made him her secretary ; and his friend Lyon Jamet, finding it necessary soon after to join him, met with a reception equally gracious. About the same time the celebrated reformer John Calvin visited Ferrara, where he spent some months under the assumed name of Charles Heppeville. He re- ceived the most distinguished attention from the duchess, who was confirmed in the Protestant faith by his instruc- tions, and ever after retained the highest respect for his character and talents." Among the other learned personages assembled here at this time was Fulvio Peregrino Morata, who had been tutor to the two younger brothers of the duke, and who became still more cele- brated as the father of Olympia Morata, the most enlightened female of her age ; who first *' acquired during her residence in the ducal palace that knowledge of the gospel which sup- ported her mind under the privations and hardships which she afterwards had to endure." The description of Ariosto, and the testimony of numerous contemporary authorities, proves that, under the sway of the house of Este, Ferrara was one of the great commercial cities of Italy. Its trade began to decline in the 16th century, and, although it has been much reduced even since that period, the city still carries on a considerable traffic in agricultural pro- duce. A great deal of business was for- merly done here in hemp, of which large quantities found its way into the English dockyards, the Ferrara growth being considered the best for cordage ; but, from the heavy export duties and other circumstances, the trade has considerably declined. The high du- ties on manufactured articles have thrown the foreign trade into the hands of the Swiss and the mer- chants of Lombardy, and the circulating capital is to a great extent in those of the Jews, who are in Ferrara a very opulent body ; their number is about 3000. They inhabited until lately, as in all the other Papal cities, a distinct quarter, the ghetto^ or Jewry ; it was formerly usual, as at Rome and other places, to lock them in at night; here, however, their importance has ex- empted them from the observance of that degrading regulation. At the present time Ferrara is the capital of a province comprehending 199,158' inhabitants ; the population of the city and suburbs is 31,184.* In spite of their deserted appearance, the effect of its broad and handsome streets is particularly imposing ; that of the Corso * These numbers, as all others respecting the population of the former States of the Church, &c., given in this volume, are taken from the last official returns published by the Govern- ment in 1857, made up, however, only to the endof ISriS. KOMAGNA, Eoute 59, — Ferrara : Cathedral. 497 di Po, by which the city is entered from the Rwy., is 1^ m. in length ; and its palaces, though many of them are di- lapidated, have an air of grandeur in accordance with the former celebrity of the city. The Cathedral was consecrated in 1135; its Gothic exterior, with few exceptions, belongs to that period, but the interior has been altered and spoiled by modern renovations. The front is divided by buttresses capped by turrets into 3 equal portions, each surmounted with a gable containing a wheel window, and ornamented with a double range of pointed arches. The porch is composed of a semicircular arch supported by columns : the side doors have also semicircular arches. The rude bas-reliefs with which this part is covered are in a good state of preservation ; they represent the Last Judgment, various events in the life of Christ, the seven Mortal Sins, with numerous sacred, profane, and gro- tesque emblems. Over the right-hand door is a colossal marble bust of Donna Ferrara, the sister of tlie founder of the church, and on the same side a statue of Alberto d'Este, in the pil- grim's dress in which he returned from Rome in 1390, laden with bulls and indulgences. Over the central door is a bas-relief of St. George and the Dragon, and higher up the long venerated miraculous statue of the Vir- gin attributed to Nicolo da Pisa, The double range of small arches is continued round the flanks of the edi- fice, and at the S.E. extremity is the huge Campanile, composed of 4 tiers of high round arches and built of blocks of Verona marble, erected by Duke Ercole II. The interior, in the form of a Greek cross, had been modernised at various times ; the semicircular choir was first added in 1499, by Rosette, a native architect, known as one of the earliest restorers of Italian architecture ; the portion beyond the transept dates from 1637, and the remainder from between 1712 and 173.5. There are several paintings worthy of notice. The As- sun^ption, the St, Peter and St, Paul, in the rt. transept, and the Virgin en- throned with Saints, are by Garofalo. The chapel of the Holy Sacrament con- tains some sculptures of angels, &c. ; and in another chapel good specimens of statues in wood of SS. George and Maurilius with the Virgin, by Andrea Ferreriy an artist of the last century ; the altarpiece is by Parolinij a native painter (1733), whom Lanzi describes as " I'ultimo nel cui sepolcro si sia inciso elogio di buon pittore ; con lui fu sepolta per allora la gloria della pittura Ferrarese." On the vault of the choir is the Last Judgment, by Bastianiiio, one of the favourite pupils and the best copyist of Michel Angelo. Lanzi says that it occupied him three years in painting, and describes it as "so near to that of Michael Angelo in the Sistine Chapel, that the whole Floren- tine school has nothing to compare with it. It is characterised,*' he says, " by grandeur of design, a great variety of figures, a good disposition of the groups, and by the pleasing repose which it presents to the eye of the spectator. It seems impossible that in a subject already occupied by Buonar- roti, Filippo should have had the power of showing himself so original and so grand. We see that, like all true imitators, he copied not the fi- gures, but the spirit and the genius of his example.'' Like Dante and Michel Angelo, Bastianino availed himself of the opportunity to put his friends among the elect, and his enemies among the damned ; the picture con- sequently contains numerous portraits of both. Among the latter are pointed out the young woman who refused his hand, while the one whom he married is placed among the blessed, and is seen maliciously gazing at her early rival. It is much to be re- gretted that recent attempts to restore this fine work have injured the effect of the original colouring. The seventh chapel contains another painting by the same master, the St. Catherine, called by Lanzi "la gran tavola di S. Caterina." The Annunciation and the St. George in the 4th chapel on 1., are by Cosimo Tiira, the painter of the 23 choir-books presented by 498 Route 69,--Fermra : Churches, Sect. VII. Bishop Bartolommeo della Rovere, the execution of which has been so highly prized as to be preferred by many to that of the famous miniatures in the Library of Siena. On an adjoining altar are 5 bronze statues representing the Saviour on the Cross, the Virgin, St. John, and St. George, by Bindelli and Marescotti, much admired by Donatello. Over the sixth altar on the left is a Coronation of the Virgin, by Francia, a very beautiful work. On the wall of the choir is the sepulchral memorial of Pope Urban III., who died of grief here in 1187, on hearing of the reverses of the second crusade, previous to the fall of Jeru- salem ; that of Lilio Gregorio Giraldi, the celebrated mythologist, has been removed to the Campo Santo ; the in- scription on the tablet, dated 1550, and written by himself, records the poverty which excited the compassion of Mon- taigne, " Nihil Opus ferente Apolline ; " but, in spite of his complaints, it ap- pears from Tiraboschi that he v/as as- sisted by the Duchess Kenee, and that he left at his death a sum of 10,000 crowns. 77ie Ch. ofS. Andrea, near the Mon- tagnone, the Promenade of Ferrara, at the S.E. extremity of the city, con- tained several good pictures, the greater number of which have been removed to the Pinacoteca: the Virgin Throned, with saints, by Garofalo^ 3rd chapel on rt., is supposed by some to have been ex- ecuted with the assistance of Raphael. In the refectory was the grand alle- gorical picture by Garofalo, represent- ing the Victory of the New Testament over the Old, now in the Pinacotheca. The Ch. and Monastery of San Benedetto, near the Porta di Po, classed among the finest buildings of Ferrara, have suffered more vicissi- tudes than perhaps any other edifice in the city. The monastery was occu- pied as barracks by Austrian, Russian, and French troops, and was afterwards converted into a military hospital ; the church, during the political troubles of the early part of this centy., was closed, and was only reopened for divine service in 181 2. It was formerly celebrated for the tomb of Ariosto, transferred to the public library by the French in 1801 ; and for some fine paintings of the school of Ferrara which it still retains. The most remarkable of these are Christ on the Cross, with St. John and other Saints, by Dosso Dossi ; the Mar- tyrdom of St. Catherine, by Scar- sellino, one of his finest works ; a Cir- cumcision, in the rt. transept, by Luca Longhi, of Ravenna ; and an Assump- tion of the Virgin, in the left, by Scar- sellino. The 4 Doctors of the Church, in the 2nd chapel on 1., and the St. Mark in that next to it, by Giuseppe Cremonesi (G. Caletti), are much praised by Lanzi, who applies the epithet "maraviglioso " to his grand and expressive figure of St. Mark, and extols the execution of the books, whose truth and nature gained for the artist the title of the " Painter of Books.'* The frescoes on the vault and cupolas are by Vincenzo Veronese. On the ceiling of the vesti- bule of the refectory is a painting of Paradise, with a choir of angels, by pupils of Dosso Dossi. Ariosto was so enamoured of this work, that he re- quested Dossi himself to introduce his portrait, being desirous, he said, of securing a place in that paradise, since he was not very sure of reaching the real one. This was accordingly done, and Ariosto's is seen between the figures of St. Sebastian and St. Catherine. About the middle of the last centy. the bust which surmounted the tomb of Ariosto was struck by lightning, and a crown of iron laurels which surrounded it was melted away ; an incident which Lord Byron has happily embodied in his well-known stanza : — " The lightning rent from Ariosto's bust The iron crown of laurel's mimick'd leaves ; Nor was the ominous element unjust, For the true laurel-wreath which Glory weaves Is of the tree no bolt of thunder cleaves, And the false semblance but disgraced his brow; Yet still, if fondly Superstition grieves, Know, that the lightning sanctifies below Whate'er it strikes ;— yon head is doubly sa- cred now." The monument of Ariosto stood ii:^ EOMAGNA. Route 59. — Ferrara ; Churches, 499 the chapel on rt. of the choir, replaced by a representation in painting of it. The C/i, of the Campo Santo, wliose fine architecture is attributed to San- sovino, is decorated Avith sculptures by that celebrated artist. The twelve chapels are remarkable for as many paintings of the Mysteries by Niccolb Bosselli, classed, doubtfully, among the Ferrarese school by Lanzi, who mentions these works as imitations of the style of Garofalo, Bagnacavallo, and others. The Nativity is by Dielai ; the S. Christopher, by Basiianino, is mentioned with the highest praise by Lanzi ; the Descent of the Holy Ghost, and the Deposition from the Cross, are by Bastaruolo ; the Last Supper, by Cignaroli ; and the Decollation of John the Baptist, by Parolini. The adjoining Campo Santo occupies the gardens and cloisters of the Convent of la Certosa. The cloisters are now covered with sepulchral monuments, and the cells of the monks converted into mortuary chapels. Among the tombs are those of Borso d'Este, first Duke of Ferrara, the founder of the monastery ; of Duke Venanziano Va- rano and his wife, by Rinaldini ; of Lilio Giraldi, the mythologist, by Lombardi, removed from the cathedral ; of the wife of Count Leopoldo Cicog- nara ; and of the Bernardino Barbulejo, or Barbojo, said to have been the preceptor of Ariosto; &c. Amongst the other works of art in the cemetery may be noticed, the bust of Cicognara, Canova's last work ; the tombs of Count Mosti, by Tadolini ; and of Count Costabile by Tenerani, and the monument of Garofalo, containing his ashes, brought from the ch. of Sta. Maria in Vado. Forming the entrance to one of the chapels is a beautiful doorway by Sansovino ; another chapel, intended to contain monuments of illus- trious Ferrarese, contains good statues of Monti and Varano by Ferari, a native artist of merit. The CL of St. Maurelius attached to the Capuchin Convent, in the Corso di Po, has some good paintings : the Virgiii Throned, with saints ; a similar subject, with Capuchin nuns, both by Scarselllno ; S. Christopher and S. An- tony the Abbot, S. Dominick, and S. Francis, in the sacristy, by Bononi. The Ch. of the Convent of the Corpus Domini, seldom open, has some tombs of the d'Este family. The Ch.ofS. Cristofero (gli Esposti) contains a remarkable painting by Costa, the Virgin and Child, with St. Louis and St. Koch. The Ch, of San Domenico, a large edifice in the Piazza dell Oca, behind the castle, is remarkable for the statues on its facade by Andrea Ferreri, and for some interesting works of Garofalo and Carlo Bononi ; the Martyrdom of S. Pietro Martire, by Garofalo ; the S. Dominick, 2nd ch. on 1., and S. Thomas Aquinas are by Carlo Bononi. The adjoining convent was once celebrated for the Library bequeathed to it by the celebrated Celio Calcagnini, *' a poet, scholar, antiquary, moralist, pro- fessor, ambassador, wit, and astrono- mer; one of the first who maintained the earth's movement round the sun; whose praises have been sung by Ariosto, his fellow traveller in Hun- gary, in the suite of Cardinal Ippolito d'Este. The number of volumes amounted to 3584, but most of them are now dispersed. Calcagnini also bequeathed fifty golden crowns for the repairs of the library, and to furnish the chairs, benches, and desks then in use." — Valery. Over the door of the library is the bust and dilapidated tomb of this eminent philosopher ; the inscription is a remarkable testimony to the insufficiency of human learn- ing: — Ex diuturno studio in primis hoc didicit : mortaiia omnia contem- nere et ignorantiam suam non ignorare, Ariosto, in the Orlando, records his astronomical discoveries in a beautiful passage : — ** II dotto Celio Calcagnin lontana Fara la gloria, e '1 bel nome di quella Nel regno di Monese, in quel di Juba,' In India e Spagna udir con chiara tuba." Or. Fur. xlii. 90, 5, Ch, of S. Francesco, in a street out 500 Route h^.'-^Ferrara : Churches, Sect. VII. of the wide Corso of the Giovecca, was founded by the Duke Ercole I., is one of the most interesting in Ferrara. Among the pictures now removed to the Pinacoteca, but replaced by copies, are the following by Garofalo: in 1st chapel on 1. the Betrayal of our Saviour, in fresco ; in 7th chapel on rt. the Virgin and Child, with St. John and St. Jerome, a charming picture; a beautiful Holy Family in 3rd on 1. ; the Raising of Lazarus, one of his best works ; and the Massacre of the Innocents, 4th on rt., one of the most touching representations of the subject. The Flight out of Egypt is by Scarsellino ; and an interesting one by Ortolano in 4th chapel on 1. In the rt. hand transept is the monu- ment of the Marchese di Villa of Ferrara, celebrated for his defence of Candia against the Turks in 1676; and that of Giambattista Pigna, the historian of the family, and the secre- tary of Duke Alfonso. Not the least remarkable curiosity of the church is the famous echo, said to reverberate 16 times, from every part of the edifice. ** The nave seems to have been in- tended to present a series of cupolas, as the side aisles actually do on a smaller scale : but in its present state, at the point where the square is re- duced to a circle, a flat ceiling is intro- duced instead of a cupola. Standing under any one of these, the slightest footstep is repeated a great many times, but so rapidly that it is difficult to count the reverberations. I counted sixteen; but the effect is a continued clatter, rather than a succession of dis- tinct sounds." — Woods. Tlie Ch. of il Gesu has a picture of the 3 Japanese Martyrs, by Parolini ; and the vault of the choir painted by Dielai, In the choir is the mau- soleum of the Duchess Barbara of Austria, wife of Alfonso IL, well known by the eloquent eulogies of Tasso. The Ch. of S. Giorgio is celebrated as the scene of the General Council held at Ferrara by Pope Eugenius IV., in ^438, for the purpose of bringing about an union between the Greek and Latin Churches, and at which the Emperor John Palaeologus was present. Even at that period the atmosphere of Ferrara was tainted by malaria, for it is re- corded that the council was removed to Florence in consequence of the un- healthy climate of this city. The Ch. of St a. Maria in Fado^ near S. Andrea and the Montagnone, one of the oldest in the city ; but en- tirely altered by modern restoration, is celebrated for a miracle resembling that of Bolsena, which the genius of Raphael has immortalized. The Church tradition relates that, the faith of the prior having failed at the moment of the consecration on Easter Sunday 1171, the host poured forth blood, and con- verted him from his disbelief. This church is also celebrated for its magni- ficent paintings by Carlo Bononi, whose talent can only, in Lauzi's opinion, be appreciated here. He relates that Guer- cino, when he removed from Cento to Ferrara, spent hours in studying these works. Among them are the Marriage of Cana, in the choir ; in 6th chapel on rt. the Visit of the Virgin to Elizabeth ; the Crowning of the Virgin ; the Para- dise ; the Miracle of the Host ; the Marriage of the Virgin, opposite, left unfinished at his death, and completed at the suggestion of Guido by Chenda ; 5th chapel on 1. the Ascension, copied from Garofalo. The splendid painting of St. John in Patmos contemplating the harlot of Babylon, by Dosso Dossiy now in the Pinacoteca, was here in 1st chapel on rt., but has been replaced by a Qopy. In a chapel near the choir is the painting of Justice and Power, by Coti- gnola, containing the celebrated Latin enigma of Alessandro Guarini, which has not yet been explained. The Visita- tion is by Panetti, the master of Garo- falo ; the Miracle of St. Antony is one of the best works of Garofalo's pupil, Carpi. In the sacristy are the Annunciation by Panetti, and a Flight out of Egypt, another work of the Venetian School. Most of the good paintings in this church have been recently removed to the Pinacoteca, and replaced by copies, Sta, Maria in Vado contains the KoMAGNA. lioute 59. — Fevrava : Gallery of Pictures. 601 tombs of some of the most remarkable artists of Ferrara, and of Tito Vespasiano Strozzi, and his celebrated son Ercole, classed by Ariosto himself among the first of poets. The remains of the painters which reposed here — Ortolano, Garofalo, 13ononi,Bastianino, andDielai — have been removed to the Cemeterio Comunale. The elder Strozzi is known also as the President of the Grand Council of Twelve, but he acquired a less enviable notoriety as a minister than as a poet, for it is recorded by Muratori that in his official capacity he was hated *'piu del diavolo." Tlie Ch. of S. Paolo, in the Strada di Porta Reno, near the cathedral, is remarkable for one of the masterpieces of Scarsellino^ the Descent of the Holy Ghost. An Adoration of the Magi, and the vault of one of the side chapels, are by the same master. The choir was painted by Scarsellino and Boiioni. The 3 large paintings on the sides of the tribune — the Epiphany, the Con- version and Death of St. Paul — are by Moim. The Resurrection is by Bastia- nino. 2 painters of this school are buried here, Giambattista Dossi, and Bas- taruolo, who perished while bathing in the Po. Another tomb in this church upon the 5th pilaster on rt. records the name of Antonio da Montecatino, the friend and minister of Duke Alfonso, better known as a professor of Peri- patetic philosophy. His bust, which is much admired, is by Alessandro Vicentini. The Ch. of the Theatins{de' Teatini), close to the Post-office, contains a large painting of the Presentation in the Temple by Giiercino; and a Resur- rection, and a S. Gaetano, by Chenda. Tfie Castle^ formerly the Ducal Pa- lace, surrounded by its ample moat, and furnished with towers and bridges, carries the imagination back to the for- tunes of Ferrara during the middle ages. " It stands," says Forsyth, " moated and flanked with towers, in the heart of the subjugated town, like a tyrant intrenched among slaves, and recalls to a stranger that gloomy period described by Dante : — " Clic le terre d'ltalia tiitto pione Son di tiranni ; ed un Marcel diventa Ogni villan che partcggiando viene." Furg, vi. 124. It is a huge, square building, de- fended at the angles by 4 large towers ; it retains few traces of the ducal family, and wears an air of melancholy, in accordance with the deserted aspect of the city. Its apart- ments were formerly decorated by the first masters of the Ferrarese school, but the paintings have entirely disap- peared, excepting on the ceilings of the antechamber and the Saloon of Aurora, where some by Dosso Dossi still re- main. In the dungeons of this castle beneath the N.E. tower Parisina and her guilty lover were put to death. The outlines of that dreadful tragedy have been made familiar to the English reader by the beautiful poem of Lord Byron, to whom the subject was sug- gested by a passage in Gibbon. A more complete account, however, is found in Frizzi's History of Ferrara, from which the following is an ex- tract descriptive of the closing scene: — "It was, then, in the prisons of the castle, and exactly in those frightful dungeons which are seen at this day beneath the chamber called the Aurora, at the foot of the Lion's Tower, at the top of the street of the Giovecca, that, on the night of the 21st of May, were beheaded, first Ugo, and afterwards Parisina. Zoese, he that accused her, conducted the latter under his arm to the place of punishment. She, all along, fancied that she was to be thrown into a pit, and asked at every step whether she was yet come to the spot ? She was told that her punishment was to be by the axe. She inquired what was become of Ugo, and received for answer that he was already dead; at which, sighing grievously, she exclaimed, * Now, then, I wish not myself to live ;' and, being come to the block, she stripped herself with her own hands of all her ornaments, and, wrapping a cloth round her head, submitted to the fatal blow, which terminated the cruel scene. The same was done with Ran- goni, who, together with the others, according to two records in the library 502 Kouteb^, — Ferrara: Gallery of Pictures. Sect. VIl. of St. Francesco, was buried in the cemetery of that convent." Plan of -The Pinacoteca'at Ferrara. Gorso Vittorio Emanuele. E. IV ill T~T '-i VII Vlll I. Entrance Hall. II. Modem Paintings. HI. Great Hall. IV. V. VI. VII. Sundry Paintings. VIII. Great Picture by D. Dosai. a. Entrance. Gallery of Pictures^ or Pinacoteca Mu- nicipale. — This collection, formerly at the Municipality, has been transferred to the Palazzo Villa, now the Ateneo Ci- vico, in the Via di Piopponi, at present the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the wide street leading from the castle to the closed Porta degli Angeli on the N. side of the city. The palace, erected in 1493, which once belonged to the Estes, is one of the finest in Ferrara, being entirely of stone, a rarity in this alluvial district: only the N. and W. fronts have been completed, and consist of diamond-shaped projecting layers, a very unusual style of construction, from which it is generally known as the Palazzo del Diarnante. Some of the pictures in this collection are re- markable ; the greater part have been brought from desecrated religious edi- fices, or churches falling into ruin, in and about Ferrara ; they are arranged in a series of eight apart- ments on the upper floor, and may be seen at any time, on application to the custode. Eoom I. — Garofalo, a copy of his celebrated fresco of the Last Supper, by Caiidi, the original being in the re- fectory of the Church of San Spirito ; several portraits of members of the house of Este ; head of St. Paul in fresco, by Panetti. Koom II. contains — Cre- monese, SS. Joseph, Carlo, and Theresa ; Bononi, a fine Guardian Angel ; Bas- tianina^ Santa Lucia; Gius Avanziy portrait of Borso d'Este; an Annun- ciation; Siibleyrasy portrait of Be- nedict XIV, ; Tintoretto, the Virgin of the Rosary. Room III. — The great saloon of the palace, with a rich but heavy wooden ceiling : — Gai^o- falo, a large fresco of the Old and New Testament, called the Trionfo della Religlone Cristiana and the Yecchia e Nova Religione, an immense composi- tion; it formerly stood in the refec- tory of S. Andrea ; it represents the victory of the New over the Old Testa- ment, the ceremonies of the Mosaic being contrasted with those of the New Law ; C Bononi, the Marriage at Can a ; Rosselli, a Transfiguration; several un- known portraits ; Costa, the Virgin with SS. Petronius aiid Jerome ; PaiO" lini, a Crucifixion. Room IV. — Palma Vecchio, the Tribute Money, a fine picture ; Panetti, an Annunciation ; Garqfalo, 2 small paintings of the Descent of the Holy Spirit and Resur- rection ; a portrait of Gio Villa, by the same; B. Gennari, St. Roch praying before the Virgin, with the town of Ferrara beneath; Scarselino, SS. Lau- rence and Francis ; Guercino, St. Bruno kneeling before the Virgin ; Costa, Virgin and Child and St. Jerome ; Dosso Dossi, the Resurrection. — Room V. — Dosso Dossi, St. John atPatmos — one of his finest works ; Carpi. S. An- tonio and Infant Jesus ; Cortellini, Vir- gin and Saints ; Stefano da Ferrara, the Virgin, Child, and two Saints; Garofalo, the Adoration of the Magi; — his last work, dated 1564; Panetti, the Annunciation, and the Meeting of Mary and Elizabeth ; Mazzolino da Ferrara, the Adoration of the Infant Jesus, with S. Benedict and another Saint, one of his finest works ; Galasso Galassi, a Crucifixion ; Garofalo, Christ in the Garden. Room VI. — Guercino, St. Peter Martyr ; Vittorio Carpaccio, a dead Madonna, signed, and dated 1.508 ; Ercole Grandi, Adoration of the Magi ; Annihale Caracal, Fall of the Manna; Garofalo, the Adoration of the Magi, his last work, dated 1548; Stefano da Ferrara, the Twelve Apostles —half figures; Rosselli, SS. Eloy and Thomasso di Villanova; Ercole RoMAGNA. Route 59. — Ferrara : Public Library, 603 Grandij a small Presepe. Kooni YIL Perugino (?), Santa Maria Egizziaca ; Dosso Dossiy an Annunciation; Pan- iietti, St. Andrew ; Garofalo, 4 paint- ings, in chiar'-oscuro, of subjects from the History of the Conversion of the Emperor Constantine to Christianity; and a drawing, in crayons ; Cosset, 2 small circular paintings, relative to the Martyrdom of St. Maurelius ; Cristofero da Ferrara, a small Crucifixion; Garo- falo, a small painting of St. Nicolo di To- lentino celebrating mass; Cosimo Tura, a cardinal. Room VIII. This apartment is entirely occupied by Dosso Dossi's immense picture of the Madonna, with Infant Christ and Saints : it is a huge composition, full of talent; unfortu- nately it has been overvarnished on its removal here from the ch. of S. An- drea, where it formerly stood: in the centre, enthroned, is the Virgin and Child ; in the four angles, St. Augustin, St. Ambrose, St. Sebastian, and St. George ; and at the foot of the throne, St. John Evan., clad in green. Beyond the Museo Civico is the Pa- lazzo Prosperi, with a very beautiful De- corated entrance designed hvB.Peruzzi. Palazzo del Magistrato. In a hall of this palace the Accademia degli Ariostei held its sittings; it has suc- ceeded to the Accademia degli In- trepidi, one of the first poetical so- cieties of Italy, but it has noAv become more generally useful as a literary and scientific institution. Near its hall of assembly some small rooms are shown which were occupied by Calvin, when he found an asylum at the Court of the Duchess Renee under the assumed name of Charles Heppeville. It is im- possible to visit them without carrying one's thoughts back to the meetings at which the stern reformer secretly expounded his doctrines to the small band of disciples whom the favour of his patroness had collected together. Among these were Anne de Parthenai, Olympia Morata, Marot, Francesco Porto Centese, and other Protestants whom persecution had driven from beyond the Alps, and who assembled in these apartments to derive instruc- tion from the great teacher of Geneva. The Studio Puhhlico enjoys some cele- brity as a school of medicine and juris- prudence. It contains a rich cabinet of medals, and a collection of Greek and Roman inscriptions and antiqui- ties ; among which is a colossal sar- cophagus of Aurelia Eutychia. But its chief interest is the Public Library (open from 8 to 3), containing 80,000 volumes and 900 MSS., among which are the Greek Palimpsests of Gregory Nazianzen, St. Chrysostom, &c. The most remarkable, however, and the most valuable of all its treasures, are the ma- nuscripts of Ariosto and Tasso. Those of Ariosto are in an apartment where the poet's arm-chair of walnut-wood, the beautifully executed medal bear- ing his profile, which was found in his tomb, and his bronze inkstand surmounted by a Cupid enjoining silence, which he is said to have de- signed himself, are deposited. These manuscripts comprise a copy of some cantos of the Orlando Furioso, covered with corrections, and remarkable also for the following memorandum which Alfieri begged permission to inscribe — *'Vittorio Alfieri vide e venero 18 Giugno, 1783 ;" one of the Satires ; the comedy of La Scolastica; and some highly interesting letters, among which is one from Titian to Ariosto. The manuscript of the Gerusalemme is one of the most touching records in Ferrara; it was corrected by Tasso during his captivity, and ends with the words Laus Deo. Like the Orlando, this is also remarkable for its corrections and cancelled passages, many of which are extremely curious, and worthy of being published. There are likewise nine letters of Tasso, written while confined in the hospital of St. Anna ; and a small collection of his Rime. Another manu- script, which seems to lose its interest by the side of the two great Epic poems, is that of the Pastor Fido of Guarini. A valuable treasure, but of a different character, is the series of Choir Books, in 18 volumes, filled with beautiful miniatures, Avhich formerly belonged to the Certosa. There is also a Bible, in one large volume, illustrated with I miniatures in the same style, and ap- I parentlj by the same hand. 604 tloute 69 »—Pef7Xirct : Public LibrdriJ, Sect. Vll. Of the printed books in the library, we may mention 52 early editions of Ariosto, a fine collection of cinque-cento editions, and a very perfect series of books printed at Ferrara, which was one of the first cities in which the print- ing press was established. Signor An- tonelli, one of the curators of this library, in his work on the Ferrarese printers of the 15th century, states that during the first 30 years of the 1 5th century upwards of 100 editions were issued from the press of 9 printers in Ferrara. Among the most famous of these printers was Giambattista Guarini, from whom Aldus, before settling at Venice, received instruction in printing Greek. The medical travel- ler will find here the exceedingly rare work of Giambattista Canani, " Mus- culorum humani corporis picturata dis- sectio," without date, but referable to the middle of the 16th century. In one of the rooms of this library is a very interesting collection of Por- traits of Ferrarese Authors, from the earliest period down to Cicognara and Monti ; and in another, 1 8 Portraits of Ferrarese Cardinals, the most interest- ing of which, from his connection with Ariosto, is that of Cardinal Ippolito d'Este, in whose service the great poet had spent so many painful and unpro- fitable years ; " Aggiungi che dal giogo Del Cardinal da Este oppresso fui." In a third room, called the Sala d' Ariosto, is his Tomh, brought here by the French from the ch. of S. Bene- detto, on the 6th of June, 1801, the anniversary of the poet's death. The inscriptions, recording the merits of Ariosto as a statesman as well as a poet, were written by Guarini. The library is open to the public from 8 to 12, and from 3 to 4. J'he Casa di Ariosto^ at No. 1208 in the Via di Mirasole, opening out of the Corso di Po, is marked by an in- scription composed by the great poet himself: — " Parva sedapta mihi, sednulli obnoxia, sed non Sordida, parta meo sed tamen sere domus." Above it is the following, placed there by his favourite son and biographer, Virginio : — " Sic dotnus haec Ariosta Propitios habeat deos, olim ut Pindarica." Ariosto built this house between 1526 and 1528, inhabited it during the latter years of liis life, and died in it in 1533. When some visitor expressed surprise that one who had described so many palaces had not a finer house for him- self, he replied that the palaces he built in verse cost him nothing. After his death nearly all the characteristics of the house, described with so much interest by the poet, were destroyed by its subsequent proprietors ; still it remained in the male line of the family, until the middle of the last centy. In 1811 tCount Girolamo Cicognara, when chief magistrate or Podesta, in- duced the town council to purchase it, as one of those national monuments which ought to be beyond the caprice of indi- viduals. The chamber of the poet was then carefully restored, and the circum- stance was recorded in the inscription placed under his bust: — Lodovico Ari- osto in questa camera scrisse e quest a casa da, lui abitata edifco, la quale CCLXXX anni dopo la morte del divine poeta, fu dal Conte Girolamo Cicognara Podesta co danari del comune comprata e ristaurata, perche alia vene- razione delle genti durasse. The Casa degli Ariostei, in which the poet was educated, is situated in the Via Sta. Maria de' Bocche, No. 3355, near the University. He lived there for the purpose of pursuing his legal studies under the superintendence of his paternal uncles ; but he soon gave up law for the more congenial study of poetry and romance. It was in one of the chambers of this residence that Ariosto, with his brothers and sisters, performed the fable of Thisbe, and other comic pieces of his own com- position. The apartment is still shown, and is well adapted for such representa- tions. On the death of his father, the poet removed from this house to the one already described. Some of the private palaces in Ferrara ROM.VGXA. Route 59. — Ferrara : Tasso's Prison. 505 contain good pictures. In the Palazzo Costabili, near tlie ch. of S. Francesco, are several good paintings of the Ferrarese School, especially of Dosso Dossi and Pessolino. In the Palazzo Mazza is a fine Gara- falo from the ch. of S. Guglielmo, some Dosso Dossis, and 2 Panettis ; and in the P. Strozzi a few good pictures. In the Palazzo Schifanoia are some curious frescoes by Cosimo Turra, re- presenting events in the life of Borso d'Este under different months ; 7 only are preserved. The Horse and Donkey Races are very spirited. In an adjoin- ing room is a beautiful ceiling. The palace now belongs to the municipality. The Piazza Ariostea formerly con- tained a statue of Pope Alexander VII. ; but this was removed by the repub- licans of 1796 to make room for one of Napoleon, whose name the Piazza bore until the peace of 1814, when both the statue and the title gave way to those of the " Italian Homer." The column covered with foliage reliefs is the same as that on which the statue of the Pope stood ; on the base is engraved, ** A Ludovico Ariosto, La Patria." One of the great objects of interest in Ferrara is the cell in the hospital of St. Anna, near the Hotel de I'Eu- rope, shown as tlie prison of Tasso, in the precincts of the hospital. Over the door is the following inscrip- tion, placed there by General MioUis : Rispettate, o Posteri, la celehrita di questa stanza, dove Torquato Tasso in- fermopiu di tristezza che delirio, ditenuto dimoro anni vii. mesi ii. scrisse verse e prose, e fu rimesso in liherta ad istanza della citta di Bergamo, nel giorno vi. Luglio, 1586. It is below the ground floor, and is lighted by a grated window from the yard ; its size is about 9 paces by 6 and about 7 feet high. " The bedstead, so they tell, has been carried off piecemeal, and the door half cut away, by the devotion of those whom ' the verse and prose ' of the prisoner have brought to Ferrara. The poet was confined in this room from the middle of March 1579, to December 1580, when he was removed to a con- tiguous apartment, much larger, in which, to use his own expressions, he N, itai^z—ised. could philosophise and walk about. The inscription is incorrect as to the imme- diate cause of his enlargement, which was promised to the city of Bergamo, but was carried into effect at the inter- cession of Don Vincenzo Gonzaga, Prince of Mantua." — Hobhouse. Few questions have been more debated than the cause of the great poet's imprison- ment, some believing that it was actual insanity, others that it was mere deten- tion in a Maison de Sant^, combined with vexatious annoyances of the police; while by far the greater number coin- cide in regarding Tasso as neither more nor less than a prisoner of state, whose sufferings were aggravated by the capri- cious tyranny of Alfonso. His biogra* pher, the Abbate Serassi, has shown that the first cause of the poet's punishment was his desire to be occasionally, or alto^ gether, free from his servitude at the court of Alfonso. In 15 75 Tasso resolved to visit Rome, and avail himself of the indulgences of the jubilee; "and this error," says the Abbate, " increasing the suspicion already entertained that he was in search of another service, was the origin of his misfortunes. On his return to Ferrara the Duke refused to admit him to an audience, and he was repulsed from the houses of all the dependants of the court ; and not one of the pro* mises which Cardinal Albani had ob- tained for him was carried into effect. Then it was that Tasso — after having suffered these hardships for some time, seeing himself constantly discounte- nanced by the duke and the princesses, abandoned by his friends, and derided by his enemies — could no longer con- tain himself within the bounds of mo- deration, but, giving vent to his choler, publicly broke forth into the most in- jurious expressions imaginable, both against the duke and all the house of Este, cursing his past service, and re- tracting all the praises he had ever given in his verses to those princes, or to any individual connected with them, declaring that they were all a gan- of poltroons, ingratefuls, and scoung drels (poltroni, ingrati, e ribaldi). For this offence he was arrested, conducted to the hospital of St. Anna, and con- fined in a solitary cell as a madman.' * z 506 Route 59. —Ferrara : Tasso^s Prison, Sect. Yll His own coi*respondence furnishes the best evidence of the treatment he ex- perienced ; — for almost the first year of his imprisonment he endured nearly all the horrors of a solitary cell, and received from his gaoler, Agostino Mosti, although himself a poet, every kind of cruelty — " ogni sorte di rigore ed inumanita." **0n the walls of Tasso's prison are the names of Lord Byron, Casimir Delavigne, and Lamartine's verses on Tasso, written in pencil. Notwith- standing these poetical authorities, with the inscription Ingresso alia prigione di Torquato Tasso at the entrance, another inside, and the repairs of this pretended prison, in 1812, by the prefect of the department, it is impossible to recog- nise the real prison of Tasso in the kind of hole that is shown as such. HoAV can any one for a moment sup- pose that Tasso could have lived in such a place for seven years and two months, revised his poem there, and composed his different philosophical dialogues in imi- tation of Plato ? I had an opportunity of consulting several well-informed gentlemen of Ferrara on this subject, and I ascertained that not one of them believed this tradition, which is equally contradicted by historical facts and local appearances. There was enough in Tasso's fate to excite our compassion, without the extreme sufferings he must have experienced in this dungeon. Al- fonso's ingratitude was sufficiently pain- ful : a slight on the part of Louis XIV. hastened the death of Racine ; and with such spirits mental afflictions are much more keenly felt than bodily pains. Madame de Stael, who was ever in- clined to commiserate the misfortunes of genius, was not misled by the legend of the prison of Ferrara ; Goethe, ac- cording to the statement of a sagacious traveller, maintains that the prison of Tasso is an idle tale, and that he had made extensive researches on the sub- ject," — Valery, Sir John Hobhouse, in reference to the inscription on the cell, says that "Common tradition had long before assigned the cell to Tasso : it was as- suredly one of the prisons of the hos- pital ; and in one of those prisons we know that Tasso was Confined. Those," he adds, " who indulge in the dreams of earthly retribution will observe that the cruelty of Alfonso was not left without its recompence, even in his ow n person. He survived the affection of his subjects and of his dependants, who deserted him at his death, and suffered his body to be interred without princely or decent honours. His last wishes were neglected; his testament cancelled. His kinsman, Don Csesar, shrank from the excommunication of the Vatican, and, after a short struggle, or rather suspense, Ferrara passed away for ever from the dominion of the house of Este." *' Ferrara! in thy wide and grass-grown streets Whose symmetry was not for solitude, There seems as 'twere a curse upon the seats Of former sovereigns, and the antique brood Of Este, which for many an age made good Its strength within thy walls, and was of yore Patron or tyrant, as the changing mood Of petty power impell'd, of those who wore The wreath which Dante's brow alone had worn before. And Tasso is their glory and their shame ; Hark to his strain ! and then survey his cell And see how dearly earn'd Torquato' s fame, And where Alfonso bade his poet dwell ; The miserable despot could not quell The insulted mind he sought to quench and blend With the surrounding maniacs, in the hell "Wliere he had plunged it. Glory without end Scatter'd the clouds away— and on that name attend The tears and praises of all time ; while thine Would rot in its oblivion— in the sink Of worthless dust, which from thy boasted line Is shaken into nothing ; but the link Thou formest in his fortunes bids us think Of thy poor malice, naming thee with scorn- Alfonso ! how thy ducal pageants shrink From thee ! if in another station born, Scarce fit to be the slave of him thou mad'st to mourn." ChiUe Harold. Next to the hospital, in which is Tasso's tomb, is the handsome Rove- rella palace, a good specimen of the ter- racotta Decorated style of the 16th cent. Tfie Theatre of Ferrara is one of the finest in the Romagna. The first opened in Italy is said to have been here. TJie Citadel, now razed, was founded in 1211. After Clement VIII. had seized the principality as a fief which Romagna. Route 59. — Fermra : Excursions, 507 had lapsed to the Church for Avaut of heirs, it was entirely rebuilt ; an ex- pedient so successfully adopted at Pe- rugia and Ancona, to resist the mal- contents likely to rebel against the usurpations of the Holy See. It ^vas completed by Paul V. By the treaty of Vienna, Austria acquired the right of occupying this citadel and the small neighbouring fortress of Comacchio ; since which time it had been occupied by an Austrian garrison until 1859. It was then destroyed : the space to be converted into a Place d'Armes, or ex- ercising-ground. Ferrara is one of the 3 archbishop- rics of the Romagna: the bishopric dates from a.d. 661 ; its archbishopric was founded by Clement XII. in 1735. Plan for visiting in a day the principal objects of interest at Ferrara, and in topograph ical order. DuoMO ; the Castle; Ch. of San Do- menico ; Chs. of San Benedetto and S. Maurelius ; House of Ariosto ; Pina- coteca ; Campo Santo and Ch. of San Cristofero ; returning by the Piazza Ariostea to the Strada della Giovecca; Prison of Tasso ; Ch. of the Teatini; Ch. of San Francesco ; Public Library ; Uni- versity ; Botanic Garden ; Chs. of Sta. Maria in Vado, S. Andrea ; Promenade of the Montagnone ; Porta Romana ; Porta Reno ; returning to the Duomo by the Ch. of S. Paolo. Boats may be hired at Ferrara for Venice, a voyage of 20 hours ; but very few will be inclined to adopt this very tedious and uninteresting mode of tra- velling. Travellers might also pro- ceed by the canals to Ravenna. The canals from Ferrara are the following (these communicate with many others, by which a constant intercourse is maintained with the central towns of Northern Italy : — The canal called the Po di FoVano leads from the Porta Eomana to the Adriatic, by a course of 56 m., skirting the northern dis- trict of Comacchio: it is navigable all the year. The Canalino di Cento, 28 m. in length, keeps up a commu- nication between Cento and Ferrara. From the Porta Po or di S. Benedetto the Cavo Pamfilio extends to Ponte di Lagcscuro, a distance of 3 miles. From the Porta di S. Giorgio the Pb di Frimaro empties itself into the Reno, the united waters of which, after running along the S. side of the marshes of Comacchio, empty themselves into the Adriatic at Porto Primaro: it is navigable all the year by boats of con- siderable burden. There is a very good road of 45 m. from Ferrara to Comacchio, leaving the city by the Borgo di S. Giorgio, and passing by Locomero, Cuna, Qiiartesana, Rovercto, Sail Vito, Dogato, and Ostillato. Travellers can proceed from Comac- chio to Ravenna (25 m.), through Torre BeW OccM and Mandriolo, but the road is bad from the depth of the sand. The rly. follows nearly the line of the old post-road. Close to the walls of Ferrara it crosses the canal called the Cavo Tas^one, and from there to Bologna passes over a perfectly level plain, remarkable for its fertility, but otherwise devoid of interest. It is covered with rice, maize, and corn fields, and especially with immense plantations of hemp, for which this district is celebrated. On leaving Ferrara there is a good deal of meadow land, which is succeeded by grain crops, the fields of the latter being- surrounded with vines trained on elms. The few cottages that are seen are neat, and especially as we approach Bologna, the general appearance of the people indicates prosperity and comfort. 11 kil. Poggio Renatico Stat, the village on the right. Leaving this, the line soon crosses the Reno, beyond which, on the right, is the village of Galliera, in the centre of a district cele- brated for its hemp. 10 kil. S. Pietro in Casale Stat, close to the village on right, where there is a good mediaeval Campanile. 7 kil. San Giorgio Stat. 7 kil. Castel Maggiore, near a hand- some villa on the right. 3 kil. Corticella Stat. Few trains stop here. 9 kil. Bologna Stat. Z 2 508 tloute 60. — ierrara to JJologna, 8ect. VtL ROUTE 60. FERRARA TO BOLOGNA, BY CENTO. About 32 Eng, m. This was formerly the principal line of communication between Ferrara and Bologna, and it is still interesting as passing through the birthplace of Guercino, which lovers of art may con- sider worthy of a pilgrimage. At a short distance from Ferrara it leaves the road to Mantua at Cassana and Porotto, and proceeds by Vigarano, Mirahello, S. Agostino, and along the Reno, by Dosso, to Cento. Cento. — This pretty town is situated in a fertile plain not far from the Reno. It is supposed to derive its name from an ancient settlement of fishermen, who were led to fix upon this spot by the great number of crawfish for which the neighbouring waters were celebrated. They are said to have built a hundred huts {cento capanmicce), which they surrounded with a fosse; and the number of their cottages thus became the appella- tion of the town which subsequently arose upon their site. The population of Cento is 5400. The town was formerly celebrated for the college of S. Biagio, which was suppressed on the establishment of the First Kingdom of Italy ; but its chief interest arises from its being the birthplace of Guercino, The ch. contains several, of the works of this great artist ; and his house, which it was his delight to cover with his paintings, is still preserved without any alteration, save what has been produced by time. The Casa di Guercino has been correctly termed a domestic museum. " In the little chapel is an admirable picture of two pilgrims praying to the Virgin. The extreme destitution, no less than the fervour of these pilgrims, is represented with great minuteness of detail (even to the patches of the least noble part of their habiliments), without in any way weakening the general effect of this pathetic composition. The ceiling of one room presents a series of horses of various breeds ; there is a superb group of two; another turned out at grass, nothing but skin and bone, is a living skeleton. A Venus suckling Cupid is less pleasing than the rest, despite its celebrity and the merit of the colouring. " Guercino had for Cento that love of locality, if we may so say, of which Italian painters and sculptors have in all ages offered numerous examples: he preferred residing in his native town to the titles and offices of first painter to the kings of France and England ; he had his school there, and remained in the town till driven away by the war between Odoardo Farnese, Duke of Parma, and Urban VIII., when Tad- deo Barberini, nephew of the latter, general of the Pontifical troops, deter- mined on fortifying Cento. The cam- paign and operations of these two com- batants seem but mean at the present day beside the glory of the fugitive Guercino. The house of Guercino, in its present state, attests a simple, modest, laborious life, which inspires a kind of respect. This great artist, really born a painter, the magician of painting as he has been surnamed, was also a pious, moderate, disinterested, and charitable man ; an excellent kins- man, whose comrade and first pupils were his brother and nephews: be- loved by his master Gennari, praised and recommended by Tiodovico Car.acci, he seems to have escaped the enmity too frequent among such rivals. The house of Guercino is not, however, de- void of magnificence : it is easy ^ to conceive that he might there receive and regale, ad uno squisito banchetto, those two cardinals who had come to the fair, when his most distinguished KOMAGNA. Koute 61. — Modena to Bologna. 509 pupils served at table, and in the even- ing performed una hella commedia, an extemporised proverb, -with which their eminences were enraptured. Christina of Sweden also visited Guercino at Cento ; and after admiring his works, that queen wished to touch the hand that had produced such chefs-d'oeuvre. " The Chiesa del Romrio is called at Cento the Galerie, a profane title, par- tially justified by its appearance and the arrangement of the paintings. Guercino is not less resplendent there than at home. The ch. is full of his paintings : he is said to have given the design of the front and steeple, and to have worked at the wooden statue of the Vir- gin ; he is consequently to be seen there as a painter, sculptor, and architect, but especially as a Christian. A chapel founded by him bears his name : he bequeathed a legacy for the celebration of mass there, and left a gold chain of great value to the image of the Virgin of the Rosary. This pious offering was stolen about the middle of the last century by a custode of the ch. ; a double sacrilege in the town where his memory is still popular and venerated." — Valery. The fair of Cento, above alluded to, formerly celebrated throughout the province, still takes place on the 7th of September; but it has much fallen oif of late years. On leaving Cento, the road crosses the Reno. A little distance beyond the river is Pieve di Cento, a town of 4000 Inhab., surrounded with walls, and formerly celebrated for its miraculous crucifix and the College of Sta. Maria Assunta. It possesses a fine Assump- tion by Guido, over the principal altar in the ch. This noble picture was under sentence of removal at the French invasion in 1797; but the people rose against the intended robbery, and ef- fectually prevented it. The road now proceeds through S, Giorgio and Castel Maggiore, parallel to the rly., on which there are stations at both these places, to Bologna, Rte. 61. ROUTE 61. MODENA TO BOLOGNA. — RAIL. KIL. KIL. Castelfranco . . 12 | Lavino ... 28 Samoggia ... 19 | Bologna ... 37 37 il.= 23m. The rly. follows the line of the Via iEmilia. 3 m. after leaving Modena the rly. crosses the Panaro. This river for- merly separated the duchy from the States of the Church. Here we enter La Romagna. 12 kil. Castel Franco Stat., or Forte Urhano. This castle, called after Urban VIII., who built it, is picturesque. The church possesses a dubious Guido. Castelfranco is considered by Dr. Cramer to agree with the position of Forum GaUorum, the scene of several important actions during the siege of Mutina, a.u.c. 710, and particularly of the defeat of Antony by Hirtius and Octavian, after the rout of Pansa. 7 kil. Samoggia Stat, a village situ- ated on the river of the same name, about midway between Modena and Bologna ; considered to occupy the site of Ad Medias, one of the sta- tions of the iEmilian Way. Beyond Anzola the road crosses the Lavino ; and 2 m. before reaching Bologna the Reno by a long stone bridge. Between La Crocetta and Trehho, 2 m. on the 1., is an island in the Reno, which antiquaries regard as^the place of the meeting of the second Triumvirate, A.u.c. 709. The road passes through an open and finely- wood- ed country, diversified by meadows and 510 Route 6i.—Modena to Bologna, Sect. VII. rich pasture-grounds, beyond which the hills which bound the prospect are clothed with vegetation, sprinkled with handsome villas, and cultivated to their summits. 8 kil. Laveno stat. 2j m. after leav- ing this cross the Reno. The towers of Bologna now come into view, and Monte Guardia, crowned by the well- known ch. of the Madonna di San Luca, is a conspicuous object from the road on approaching the city ; on the rt. is the Certosaf now the Campo Santo. 10 kil. Bologna stat. The station is near the city gate of La Galliera, where omnibuses for the different hotels and hackney coaches are in attendance. BOLOGNA. Hotels: the Hotel Brun or Suisse, like all the hotels here, is at a considerable distance from the Rly. Stat. : good table d'hote, charges generally moderate. The Church of England service on Sundays in the large room of this hotel. Hotel di San Marco in the same street, also clean and quiet. 11 Pelegrino, very fair ; civil people. Albergo d' Italia, in the Corso, with a restaurant. I Tre Mori, and Tre Re, second-rate inns; the two latter in the centre of the city. Cafes. — The best is the Cafe del Corso, near the Piazza ; the Cafe del Piemonte under the Portico del Pabel- lone, behind San Petronio ; the Cafe deir Commercio, opposite the Albergo Suizzero ; and the Cafe dell' Italia, be- neath the Portico of the Dogana Vecchia. Haehney Coaches, Omibuses. — The cabs with one horse are good : fares 75 c. for the course within the city walls, and 1*50 fr. an hour; 1 fr. from the rly. stat., with a gratuity for luggage in addition. Omnibuses run from the principal hotels to meet all the trains : fares 60 c. without, 1 fr. in- cluding, luggage, when in moderate quantity ; on arriving at the station, the traveller wi]l do well to hand over to the conductor of the omnibus the receipt for his parcels. Carriages can be hired at the Hotel Suisse by the hour at the following rates : for 1 hour with one horse, 2 frs. ; with 2 horses, 3 frs. ; to drive to San Michele in Bosco and to the Cemetery, 2 '50 frs. 1 horse ; 4 frs. 2 horses. This will be a better and nearly as economical an arrangement as taking hackney cabs. Boolcsellers. — The traveller will find a good supply of works of local interest, and of French books, at Marsigli and Bocclifs, in the Portico or Sotto le Logge del Pavaglione, on one side of San Petronio. Bologna, until recently the second capital of the States of the Church, and one of the most ancient cities of Italy, is situated at the foot of the lower slopes of the Apennines in a beautital and fertile plain ; it is surrounded by a high wall without fortifications from 5 to 6 m. in circuit : the Savena washes its walls, and a canal from the Reno passes through the city. It was until recently the capital of the most important province of the Holy See. The city is about 2 m. long by I J broad ; it has 12 gates, and a popu- lation of 75,000 Inhab. It is the resi- dence of the Prefect of the province, and the seat of an archbishop. It is one of those interesting provincial capitals which no country but Italy possesses in such abundance. With its rich and varied colonnades, afford- ing a pleasant shelter from the sun and rain, with well-paved streets, noble institutions, and a flourishing, intelli- gent, and learned population, it rivals Rome in all except classical and reli- gious interest, and the extent of its museums. It would do honour to any country in Europe as its metropolis ; and the inhabitants still cherish in their love of freedom the recollections in- spired by its ancient motto, "Libertas.'' Bologna has always been the most flourishing and the most advanced in an intellectual point of view of all the cities of the Papal States, although it has never been the residence of a court nor the seat of a Sovereign ; and there can be no doubt that this prosperity is RO MAGNA. Route 61. — Bologna. 511 i-^ ^ 8 \'^ 1 ill i CO CO 1 ci CO I I fa O CO aj I ts 2 -2 " ^1 i a: I CO S (Sll =3 3 -p^ t^ 00 o> O 1 •a s ^ ^ E ^ •§ 2 •a .2 g 2 s p Ph O k^ P^ <5 O i-J a celebrated jurisconsult, by the Florentine sculptor Francesco di Si- mone; and opposite one of the Volta family, with a statue of S. Proculus, by Lazzaro Casari. 22nd chapel, or 2nd on 1., St. Raimondo crossing the sea on his mantle, is by Lod. Caracci. 23rd, or first on 1. This chapel contains a bust of S. Filippo Neri, from a cast taken after his death. The Cloisters of the adjoining con- vent of San Domenico are extensive: the outer one, supposed to be that erected in 1231 by Niccolo da Pisa, contains some inscriptions and ancient tombs, among which are to be noticed those of Gio. d' Andrea Calderini, the work of Jacopo Lanfrani, in 1238; and of Bartolommeo Salicetti, a Professor, by Andrea da Fiesole, in 1412. There EOMAGNA. Route (31. — Bologna: Churches, S29 is preserved here a portion of a paint- ing by Lippo di Dalmasio, representing the Magdalen at the feet of Christ, which Malvasia describes as his earliest work ; the head of the Magdalen is destroyed. Beyond this, in the same corridor, is Christ holding a Crucifix, with S. Lorenzo presenting a Domi- nican friar kneeling ; it bears the in- scription Pet r us Joanis (Pietro di Giovanni Lianori ?), and is of the 14th century. On leaving the convent, under the portico built by Niccola Barella, leading up the Via di S. Do- menico, on the 1. hand, is a picture of the Virgin and Child, with St. John, by Bagnacavallo. In the Piazza surrounding the Church of San Domenico are some interesting objects. The bronze statue of S. Dominick, standing on a red brick column, was cast at Milan in 1623; the Madonna del Rosario, on a marble one, is by Giulio Cesare Con- venti ; and two sepulchral monuments, one, in the centre of the square, the tomb of the learned jurist Rolandino Passaggeri, Corretaro of the corpora- tion of Notaries, who, while holding the office of town-clerk, was selected to write the reply of the Republic to the haughty letter of the Emperor Frederick II., demanding the release of his son King Hensius ; the other of a member of the family of Fosche- rari, and was raised by Egidio Fosche- rari in 1289. The early Christian bas-reliefs forming one of the arches of the canopy are more ancient, and not unlike some of those of the 8th centy. which we shall see at Ravenna. Both tombs stand under canopies sup- ported by columns. Ch. of S. Francesco i behind the Post office, one of the grand speci- imens of Italian - Gothic, and one of the most extensive of the eccle- siastical edifices of Bologna, was de- secrated in 1798, and converted into the Dogana or custom-house; the in- terior consists of a grand elevated nave and aisles, with 7 pointed arches, on each side supported by 8-sided columns, all in brick. It has been restored of late yeai*s to its primitive N, Itahj—lSed, destination, and the walls painted in guady colours with execrable taste ; the transepts have been restored in the most modern style of classical architecture • - a sad eyesore in an edifice of such a pure kind of Italian Gothic ; the many interesting sepul- chral monuments it contained — the churches of St. Francis throughout Italy being favourite burying-places — have been destroyed, or transferred to the Campo Santo. The principal object worth notice in the restored edifice is the marble decoration or screen over the high altar, a fine work of the 14th century by Giacohello and Pietro dalle Massegne, and for which they received, in 1388, 2150 golden ducats, a very large sum for the period (1388). The bas-reliefs on it represent the Co ronation of the Virgin, in the centre with figures of saints on either side. Amongst other celebrated individuals buried here was Pope Alexander V« (1410). His monument has been re- moved to the Campo Santo. In the adjoining portico, under which is the entrance to the Post-office, are frescoes relating to the life of S. Antonio di Pa- dova, by Tiarini, Tamburini, Gessi, &c. The mutilated Sarcophagus near the outer door of the Convent bears the inscription of the celebrated Glossator Accursius. The Bell Tower, of the 13th century, is one of the finest in Bologna. The Ch. of S. Giacomo Maggiore, in the Strada di S. Donato, belonging to the Augustine hermits, was founded in 1267, enlarged in 1497, but never com- pleted. Some of its existing details, however, are interesting^ as illustrations of early Italian Gothic. The doorway has a canopy in which the shafts sup- porting it rest on lions^ On each side are (2) arched recesses for tombs. An ugly square window has replaced an elegant wheel one ; whilst the two handsome pointed ones, which ad- mitted light into the nave, have been barbarously walled up. The beau- tiful portico adjoining, and which forms one side of the Via di S. Donato, was erected in 1477 by Giovanni di Bentivoglio. The vaulted nave of the ch., divided into 3 portions by cross 2 A 530 iioute 61. — Bologna i Churches, Sect. Vii. arches, has been much admired for the boldness of its execution. The paintings in the different chapels -which open di- rectly from it are the chief objects of attraction. In the 1st chapel on rt., the small fresco of the Virgin, " della Cintura," is covered up by a more modern one of Cherubim. 4th. The fall of St. Paul, by Ercole Procaccini. 5th. Christ appearing to Gio. da S. Facondo, by Cavedoni, who also painted the gradino beneath. 6th. The Virgin throned, surrounded by John the Baptist, St. Stephen, St. Augustin, St. Anthony, and St. Ni- cholas ; a fine work, by Bartolornmeo Passerotti, much praised by the Ca- racci. 7th. St. Alexis bestowing alms on the poor, and the (3) frescoes of the arch, by Prospero Fontana. 8th. The Marriage of St. Catherine, by Innocenzo da Imola, justly called an "opera Raffaelesca," for it is almost worthy of that great master, except as regards the colouring : this is really a magnificent picture. 10th. St. Eoch struck with the plague, and comforted by an angel, by Lodovico Caracci : the glory of angels above, and the saints by the side, are by Francesco Brizzi. 11th. The four Doctors of the Church are by Lorenzo Sahhatini ; the Angel Michael, over the altar, by his scholar Calvart. Its merit was so much ap- preciated by Agostino Caracci, that he engraved it. 12th. The chapel of the Poggi family, designed by Pelle- grino Tibaldi. The altarpiece, repre- senting the Baptism of our Lord, was finished by Prospero Fontana, by desire of Tibaldi. The compartments of the roof are also fine works of Fontana. The grand picture of St. John baptizing, and that on the side wall in illustra- tion of ** Many are called, but few are chosen," are by Pellegrino Tibaldi : they are characterised by great power of composition and expression, and are said to have been much studied by the Caracci and their school. 13th. The Virgin, with St. Catherine and St. Lucia, and the Beato Rinieri below, is by Calvaert. Uth. The Virgin and Child in the air, with SS. Cosimo and Damiano and S. Catherine below, and the portrait of one of the Calcina family, patrons of this chapel, are by Lavinia Fontana. 1 5th, said to contain a fragment of the true cross. Over the altar of this chapel is a large Ancona, in several compartments, of the Coronation of the Virgin with Saints, which is worthy of observation as bearing the name of Jacopo Avanzi, on which, in the group of St. Martin dividing his raiment with a poor man, the head of the horse is well drawn for the period. The Crucifix on the side wall bears that of Simone (da Bologna), with the date 1370. 18th. The celebrated chapel, opening behind the choir, of the Bentivoglio family, the ancient lords of Bologna, is, on many accounts, the most interesting in this ch. The Virgin and Child, with 4 angels and 4 saints, over the altar, is one of the most celebrated works of Francesco Francia^ "painter to Giovanni II., a Bentivoglio." The Ecce Homo in the lunette above is also attributed to this master. In another lunette, one of the visions, the Apocalypse, in fresco, is by Lorenzo Costa^ retouched by PWice Cignaniy who painted the 2 figures of the An- nunciation. The oil painting, on the rt. side wall of the altar, of the Virgin throned, with Gio. II., Bentivoglio, and his numerous family in adoration, inte- resting as a study of costume and cha- racter, is by L^orenzo Costa^ Francia's able scholar (1488). The 2 curious ones opposite, representing triumphs, are also by Costa : one is a procession of Death drawn on a car by 2 buffaloes, and the other, a female figure, by black elephants ; the numerous figures in these processions are interesting for the costumes of the period. The alto- relievo of Annibale Bentivoglio, Lord of Bologna, in the chapel {oh. 1458), on horseback, is by Nicolb dalV Area, The expressive head in relief of Gio- vanni II., on one of the pilasters, is said to have been sculptured by Fran- cesco Francia. Outside the Bentivo- glio chapel is the fine monument of Antonio Bentivoglio, who perished on the scaffold in 1435, the father of An- nibale I.; it was executed by Jacopo della Querela : the other tomb near it and behind the choir, is of Nicolo ROMAGNA. Boute Gl. — Bologna : Churches, 531 Fava^ an eminent medical professor ! of the 15th century. 19th. The i Christ in the Garden, and in the 20th | chapel the St. Peter, St. Paul, and j King- Sigismund, are hy Ercule Pro- j caccini. 2 1 St. The Virgin, Avith S. John the Baptist, S. Francis, and S. Benedict, by Cesi, one of his most pleasing works. 23rd. The Martyrdom of St. Cathe- rine, by Tiburzio Passerotti. 25th. The Presentation in the Temple is the masterpiece of Orazio Samacchini ; it was engraved by Agostino Caracci. The figures of 2 Saints on the side walls are also by Samacchini. 29th. The monument to Cardinal Agucchi, over the side door of the ch., with the statues and bas-reliefs, is by Gahriele Fiorini, from a design, it is said, of Domenichino. 32nd. The Last Supper is supposed to be a repetition of the celebrated picture by Baroccio, in the Ch. di S. M. sopra INIinerva, at Kome, by the painter himself. The frescoes of Melchisedek and Elijah on the side walls, and the Angels of the ceiling, are good works of Cavedone. In the 34th chapel is a miraculous crucifix in wood, the history of which can be traced as far back as the year 980. Behind and communicating with the convent is the chapel of Santa Cecilia (described at p. 525) ; it is entered through the convent, and will be opened by the Sacristano of the church. Kossini, the celebrated com- poser, having been educated in the annexed Augustinian convent — con- verted into the Liceo Filarmonico, or great Music School of Bologna— his name has been given to the Pia2;zetta in front of the church. The Ch. of San Giorgio, built by the Servite Fathers, contains a few interest- inff pictures. In the 4th chapel, S, Filippo Benizio, kneeling before the Virgin and Child in the midst of An- gels, was begun by Simone do Pesaro, and finished in the lower part by Albani. The St. George, at the high altar, is by Camillo Procaccini. In the 5th chapel on 1., the Annunciation is by Lodovico Caracci, and the graceful paintings un- derneath are by Camillo Procaccini. 4th. The Probatica Piscina in this chapel is also by Lodovico Caracci, 1st. The Flight out of Egypt, by Tiarini. The Ch. of S. Giovanni in Monte, a fine Gothic edifice with a groined roof, so called from its being on a slight rising, the highest point within the walls of the city, one of the most an- cient in Bologna, founded by St. Pe- tronius in 433, and rebuilt in 1221, was restored in 1824, without disturb- ing the general style of its ancient architecture. The great entrance dates from 1527 ; the eagle in painted terracotta over it is by Nicolb dall* Area. The interior consists of a nave separated from the aisles by four wide round arches originally pointed ; the arches of the tribune and transepts being still in the latter style. 1st chapel on rt. The Saviour appearing to the Magdalen, by Giacomo Francia, 2nd. The Crucifixion, by Ccsi. 3rd. The St. Joseph and St. Jerome, in the ovals on the side walls, are by Giter' cino. 6th. A small oval 'Madonna, almost hidden by ex-voto offerings, placed below Mazzoni's picture of the Liberation of St. Peter, is by Lippo di Dalmasio. 7th. The Virgin throned with Saints is a fine work of Lorenzo Costa. 8th. The miraculous figure of the Virgin here, originally in the an- cient church of S. Eutropio, was formerly celebrated for its powers in curing the sick : it is of high antiquity. 9th. The S. Ubaldo is a good w^ork of Gio. Battista Bolognini. The pic- ture in the choir, of the Virgin with the Almighty and the Saviour above, and John the Evangelist, St. Augustin, St. Victor, and other saints below, is by Lorenzo Costa, The busts of the Apos- tles over the stalls are by Alfonso Lorn- hardo, and the 2 Evangelists by Fra Ubaldo Farina ; the Tarsia work is by Paolo Sacca, 1525. The ancient Madonna, on a pilaster, to the 1. of the high altar, a fresco detached from some suppressed church, is said to be anterior to the year 1000, but it has lost all its original character. 12th, or l.-hand transept, the picture of Sta. Cecilia, by Raphael, now in the Pinacoteca, was over the altar in this chapel until 1796 ; there is now an in- different copy in its place. Beneath 2 A 2 532 Boute 61 »— Bologna : Churc%es, Sect. Vll. the altar is buried the Beata Elena Duglioli dair Olio, at whose expense the Sta. Cecilia was painted. 6th on 1. The figure of the Saviour, carved out of a single block of a fig-tree, is attributed to Fietroda Pavla^ 1430. 17th. In the 2nd chapel on the 1., the St. Francis kneeling, adoring a crucifix, is a power- ful and expressive work by Guercino. The adjoining convent, whose cloisters were designed by Terribilia in 1548, has been converted into a prison. On the stairs leading from the ch. to the Via di S. Stefano are several tombstones and inscriptions formerly on the floor of its nave and aisles. The Ch. of St. Gregono, near the Cathedral, almost entirely rebuilt after the earthquake of 1779, contains, in the 6th chapel, one of the early oil paintings of Annibale Caracci: the Baptism of the Saviour. In the 8th chapel, the St. George delivering the Queen from the Dragon, with the Archangel Michael above pursuing the demons, and like- wise the picture of God the Father, are by Lodovico Caracci. The picture over the high altar, representing St. Gregory's miracle of the Corporale, is by Calvaert. Albani is buried in this ch. The Ch. of S. Leonardo contains, in its 1st chapel, the Annunciation, by Tiariiii, in which the Almighty, hold- ing a dove as the symbol of the Holy Spirit, is represented as awaiting the answer of the Virgin to the announce- ment of the Angel. The altarpiece, the Martyrdom of St. Ursula, and the St. Catherine in prison, converting Por- phyrins and the wife of Maximianus to Christianity, are both excellent works by Lodovico Caracci. The Ch. of Sta. Lucia^ in the Strada Castiglione, a large modernized edifice with a very bare look, is, perhaps, more remarkable for a curious lite- rary relic preserved there — a long letter written by St. Francis Xavier, in Por- tuguese, which is exposed with singular homage on the festival of that saint — than for its works of art, although there are several pictures which deserve notice, among which may be specified the Sta. Lucia and Sta. Anna, with the Virgin and Child, at the high altar, by JErcoIe Procaccini; the Death of St. Francis Xavier, considered the best work of Carlo Antonio Bambaldi, in the 6th chapel ; the Virgin and Child, with John the Baptist, S. Carlo, and Sta. Teresa, by Carlo Cignani, in the 7th chapel ; and in the Sacristy, the Cruci- fixion by Lavinia Fontana ; and the Conception, one of the first works of Calvart while yet a pupil of Sabbatini, The Ch. of the Madonna del Ba- raccano was so called from a Confra- ternita, established in 1403, in honour of the miracles performed by a picture of the Virgin painted on a bastion of the city walls, called *' II Baraccano di Strada Santo Stefano.'' Over the portico, constructed from the designs of Agostino Barella, is a statue of the Virgin by Alfonso Lombardo. At the high altar the miraculous picture of the Vir- gin, Francesco Cossa, of Ferrara, re- painted it in 1450, with the addition of 2 portraits, of Gio. I. Bentivoglio, and of Maria Vinciguerra. The frieze of flowers which adorns this altar, and other sculptures of the chapel, are graceful works by Properzia de' Rossi, The Virgin and Child, with SS. Joseph and Joactim, in the 4th chapel, is by Lavinia Fontana ; and the St. Catherine, in the 5th, is by Prospero Fontana. The Madonna di S. Colombano is re- markable for being covered internally by frescoes, painted by various pupils of Lodovico Caracci. The St. Francis on the rt. wall is by Antonio ^ son of Agostino Caracci ; the Virgin and Child, with Joseph gathering dates, is by Spada ; the Sibyl over the side door, and the Coronation of St. Catherine, are hj Lorenzo Garbieri; the Sta. Marta con- versing with the Saviour, before whom the Magdalen is kneeling, is by Lucio Massari, on the vault above ; by whom are also the Sibyl over the other door, and the angel bearing the palm of martyr- dom to Sta. Ursula ; the infant Saviour playing with St. John in the presence of little angels is by Paolo, brother of Lodovico Caracci, who gave the design. Li the upper oratory, the frescoes re- presenting the Passion were all, it is said, the result of a trial of skill among the younger pupils of the Caracci; among them, the fine picture of St. Peter going out weeping from Pilate's ROMAGNA. Route 61. — Bologna: Churches. 633 house, by Albania may be particularly noticed. The Virgin, over the altar of this ch., is by Lippo Dahnasio. The Ch. oi Xha Madonna di GaUiera, near the Cathedral, a very handsome ch. inside, contains some interesting- paintings. In the 1st chapel (del Cro- cifisso) the frescoes on the ceiling, repre- senting the Death of Abel, and the Sacri- fice of Abraham, are the last works of 3/. Angela Colonna. In the 2nd, the St. Antony of Padua is by Girolamo JDonnini, the pupil of Cignani. In the 3rd, the Virgin and Child, with Joseph, S. Francesco di Sales, and S. Francesco d' Assisi, is by Frances- chlni, who painted the frescoes of this chapel. The Capella Maggiore con- tains a very ancient painting of the Virgin and Child, generally concealed from view; the figures of the angels round this painting are by Giuseppe Mazza. In the 4th, the Incredulity of St. Thomas is by Teresa Muratori, celebrated as much for her talent in music as in painting; the angels above, frequently praised for their delicacy and grace, are said to have been added by her master, Gio. Giu- seppe dal Sole. The 2nd chapel on 1. contains the picture of the infant Chris between the Virgin and St. Joseph, with groups of angels above, a lovely painting by Alhani ; the Adam and Eve in oil, the Cherubim and the Virtues in fresco, are by the same master. In the 1st is S. Filippo Neri in ecstacy, surrounded by Angels, by Guercino. In the Sacristy, St. Philip, the Beato Ghislieri, the Conception, and the S. Francesco di Sales, are by Elisa- hetta Sirani. The Celestial Love, and the St. Elizabeth of Hungary, are by G. Andrea Sirani. The Assump- tion is by Alhani. The adjoining oratory, built from the designs of Torregiani, has over the entrance door a fresco of an Ecce Homo by JLodovico Caracci. Sta. Maria Maddalena, near la Porta Mascarella, contains, at the first altar, a Madonna, S. Onofrio, and S. Vitale, by Tihurzio Fasserotti : and at the 3rd, St. Francis, and St. James, by the same. The Virgin, with S. Sebastian and S. I^ocli, is by Ba(jnacarallo, The oratory contains an altarpiece by Er- cole Procaccini, restored by Giovannini; the Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin by Giuseppe Crespi, and other works by his two sons. Sta, Maria Maggiore, in the street leading to the Porta Galliera, one of the ancient churches of the city, contains some good works by Tiarini. At the 1st altar, St. John the Evangelist dictating to St. Jerome is a pleasing example of this master. The 3rd altar has a very ancient wooden crucifix. The 5th has a Madonna and Child, with St. James and St. Antony, by Orazio Sajnacchini. The 7th was decorated by Carlo Francesco Dotti. The 5th on 1. has a Virgin, Child, and St. John, painted by Francesrhino Caracci; the 1st on 1. a picture of the Madonna with 2 saints of the 15th centy., attributed on very doubtful grounds to Carlo Crivelli, The Ch. of Sta. Maria della Pieta, better known as / Mendicanti, near the Porta di San Vitale, which the great masters of the Bolognese school had enriched with some of their finest works, was stripped of its most valu- able treasures at the first invasion by the French ; the Madonna della Pieta by Guido, the St. Matthew by Lodovico Caracci, the S. Alo and S. Petronius of Cavedone, are in the Pinacoteca ; and the Job of Guido, which accompanied them to France, has never been restoredj Among the most interesting paintings which remain are the following : at the 1st altar, the Sta. Ursula, by Bartolom- meo Fasserotti. 3rd on 1., Christ feeding the Multitude, by Lavinia Fontana. 4th, the Flight out of Egypt, with a fine landscape, and the paintings on the side walls, by G. A. Donducci. 2nd, the St. Anna adoring the Virgin in a vision, by Bartolommeo Cesi. 1st, the Cruci- fixion, with the Virgin, St. John, and other saints, by the same master. The Ch. of Sta. Maria della Vita, in the Via Clavature, near the Pepoli Pa- lace, founded in 12G0, by the Beato Ei- niero of Perugia, who devoted himself on this spot to the relief of the sick, was, entirely remodelled in the last centy. In the 2nd chapel are preserved the bones of the Beato Buonaparte Ghisilieri, brought here, in 1718, from the sup- 534 Eoute 61, — Bologna: Churches. Sect. VII. pressed ch. o f S. Eligio, The picture representing 1 he Beato Buonaparte and St, Jerome is )y Aureliano Milani. The 3rd chapel c( ntains an Annunciation, with S. Lon nzo underneath, painted by Tamhurini from a design of Guido, who is said to have retouched it. Over the high altar is a fresco of the Virgin and Child by Simone da Bologna; the marble ornaments are by Angelo Ven- turoli. The two statues by the side are by Petronio Tadolini ; and those in plaster by Glacomo Rossi. In the 3rd chapel on 1. is another gift of Count Malvasia, the bust of S. Carlo Borromeo, the head of which is in silver. In the Sacristy is a picture of S. Eligio, attri- buted to Annihale Caracci, and in the oratory is the masterpiece of Alfonso Lombardo, a bas-relief representing the death of the Virgin in the presence of the apostles, whose heads are said to have inspired many painters of the Bolognese school. The Beato Reniero healing the sick, in the 2nd chapel on 1., during the plague, ishy Cavedo7ie, whose history is scarcely less affecting than that of Properzia de' Rossi. Cavedone, at the death of his son, was so much oppressed with grief that he lost his talent, and with it his employment : his old age was passed in beggary, and, after having contributed so much in early life to the decoration of the churches and palaces of his native city, he was allowed to die in a stable. The fine ch. ofS, Martina Maggiore, in the Piazza S. Martino and near the Via di S. Donato, belonged to the Carmelite Friars from the 14th centy.to the period of the French invasion ; it has five fine wide pointed arches on either side of of the nave, supported on short stumpy Italo-Gothic columns. The Adoration of the Magi, in the 1st chapel, is one of the most graceful works of Girolamo de' Carpi ; the Annunciation, over the side door, is by Bartolommeo Fasserotti, and the alto-rilievo of S. Martin by Man- zini, 1530. In the 4th chapel is a pic- ture of St. Joachim and St. Anna, with the date 1558, by Giovanni Taraschi. in the 5th is the picture of the Virgin and Child, with a sainted bishop on one side, and Sta. Lucia on the other, with St. Nicholas below, giving their dowry to 3 young girls, by Amico Aspertini, the pupil of Francia, called '* dai due pennelle,'* because he worked with both hands, holding at the same time a brush for light and another for dark tints. The 7th chapel contains the only work in Bologna by Girolamo Sicciolante, the imitator of Raphael : it represents the Virgin and Child, with St. Martin, St. Jerome, &c., and contains a por- trait of Matteo Malvezzi, for whom it was painted. Near the door of the Sacristy is the monument and bust of the eloquent Filippo Beroaldi the elder, by Vinccnzo Onofrio. Above it is the Ascen- sion, by Cavedone. In the 8th chapel is an Assumption, attributed to Ferugino. In the 9th is the grand picture of St. Jerome imploring the Divine assistance in the explanation of the Scriptures, by Lodovico Caracci. In the 10th is the Crucifixion, with St. Andrew, and the Beato Pietro Toma, by Cesi. The 1 1th was entirely painted by Mauro Tesi, an eminent artist of the last centy. In the 12th chapel is the Madonna and Child, with several saints, by F. Fran- cia, as well as the paintings of the Saviour above, and bearing the Cross below. The St. Roch in the painted glass of the window over the altar is by the Beato Giacomo da Ulma. The oratory, formerly the conventual li- brary, was painted by Dentone ; the Dis- pute of St. Cyril is by Lucio Massa7H, The altarpiece, representing the In- credulity of St. Thomas, is a fine work of Giampietro Zanotti, painted for the suppressed ch. of S. Tommaso del Mer- cato. In the cloister are several sepul- chral monuments, among which may be particularly noticed those of 2 Pro- fessors of Law of the Saliceti family ; the one bearing the date of 1403 has in front a curious bas-relief of a Professor lecturing, and is attributed to Andrea da Fiesole ; the second, of a certain Pe- trus, having a similar bas-relief with 6 bearded students, is of 1503. The Ch. of S. Paolo, in the Via di Aposa,behind the Piazza Maggiore,built by the Bernabite fathers in 1611, was restored in 1819. The marble statues of St. Peter and St. Paul on the fa9ade are by Mirandola and Conventi. At the 1st altar, the Christ in the Garden, and EoMAGNA. Houte Gl, — Bologna: Churches ; San Petronio, the Christ bearing the Cross, on the side walls, are by Mastelletta. At the 2nd is the fine painting of Para- dise, by Lodovico Caracci. The small Madonna underneath is by Lippo di Dabmtsio, In the 3rd are the Nativity, and the Adoration of the Magi, by Cavedone, which is regarded as his masterpiece. The frescoes on the vault, representing the Circumcision, the Flight out of Egypt, and the Dis- pute with the Doctors, are by the same painter. At the altar in the rt. transept is the Purgatory by Guer- cinOf in which St. Gregory shows to the souls the Almighty, the Saviour, and the Virgin in the heavens. Above the high altar the 2 statues of St. Paul and the Executioner are by Alessandro Algardi, who is said to have given Facchetti the design of the Tribune, and to have sculptured the ivory Cruci- fix on it: the tabernacle in jasper is in the form of a basilica. At the 3rd on 1., the S. Carlo Borromeo carrying the cross through Milan during the plague, and the other pictures of the same saint on the side walls, are by Lorenzo Garhieri. At the 2nd, the Communion of St. Je- rome, and the other paintings of this chapel, are by Massari. At the 1st, the Baptism of the Saviour, and the Birth and Burial of St. John the Bap- tist, are by Cavedone. The Ch., or Basilica^ of San Petronio, the largest in Bologna, and, though un- finished, one of the most interesting and remarkable, is a fine monument of the religious munificence which charac- terised the period of Italian freedom. It was founded in 1390, while Bologna was a free city, the architect being Antonio Vincenzi, celebrated as one of the lb Riformatorif and as the ambas- sador of the Bolognese to the Venetian Republic in 1396. The original plan was a Latin cross, and, if the building had been completed, it would have been 750 Eng. ft. long, or 1 36 more than St. Peter's at Rome. The portion we now see consists merely of what was intended for the nave and aisles, as may be seen on the outside, where the construction of the transept had been just com- menced when the work was abandoned. Of the exterior, the lower portion of its front alone is finished, and of the interior little more than the nave has been completed. In spite of these defi- ciencies, San Petronio is one of the finest specimens of the Italian Pointed style of the 1 4th century. The 3 cano- pied doorways of the unfinished fa9ade are pure, and amongst the finest ex- amples of the Italian Gothic ; they are covered with bas-reliefs represent- ing various events of Scripture his- tory from the Creation to the time of the apostles, and are ornamented with busts of prophets and sibyls which recall the taste and designs of Raphael. The central doorway and its bas-reliefs were justly considered the masterpiece of Jacopo dalla Quercia, and were entirely executed by him. They must be care- fully studied to appreciate their details ; there are 32 half figures of patriarchs and prophets, with the Almighty in the centre of the arch ; 5 subjects from the New Testament in the architrave, and 5 from the Old Testament, from the Creation to the Deluge, on each pilaster. Under the arch are statues of the Virgin and Child, St. Petronius, and St. Ambrose. It is recorded that the artist was commissioned to execute this door for the sum of 3600 golden florins, the Reverenda Fabbrica providing the stone (grey limestone) ; Vasari says that he devoted 12 years to the work, and that its completion filled the Bolognese with astonishment. The L-hand doorway, supposing the spectator looking from the Piazza, is remarkable for the angels and sibyls round the arch, by Tribolo, well known as the friend of Benvenuto Cellini, who has left an amusing re- cord of him in his most entertaining biography. Of the 4 subjects on the 1. pilaster, the 1st, 3rd, and 4th are by Tribolo, as well as the 4th on the rt. pilaster, supposing the spectator to be looking at the door. Tribolo was assisted in these works by Seccadenari, Properzia de' Rossi, the Bolognese Sappho ; and by Cioli and Solosmeo, pupils of Sansovino. The 3 other subjects on the rt. pilaster are by Alfonso Lombardo, and repre- sent different events of the Old Testa- ment. The second subject of the 1. pilaster, representing Jacob giving hi§ 536 Route 61. — Bologna: Churches; San Petronio, Sect. VII. blessing to Isaac, is by an unknown artist. Under the arch is the superb sculpture of the Resurrection, the Saviour rising between the sleeping soldiers, by Alfonso Lombardo, praised by Vasari, and admirable for its simple dignity and truth. The rt.-hand door- waij is another monument of the taste and purity of Tribolo. The angels of the arch, the sibyls, and the 8 subjects from the Old Testament on the pilasters, are by this master. Under the arch is the group of Nicodemus supporting the dead body of Christ, by Amico ; the Virgin, on one side, is by Tribolo; and the St. John the Evangelist, by Ercole Sec- cadenari, on the other. The interior of San Petronio is par- ticularly imposing, and never fails to excite regret that it has not been com- pleted on its original extensive plan. Some fault might be found with the proportion of the edifice ; but the size and peculiar simplicity of the design produce an effect which reminds the English traveller of the purer Gothic of the north. *^ It possesses in a high degree the various peculiarities which characterise the arrangements of the Italian Gothic, such as the wide and low pier arches whose span equals the breadth of the nave, the absence of the triforium and of the clerestory string, the great empty circles which occupy the space of the clerestory, the exten- sive doming of the vaults, the shallow- ness of the side aisles, the heavy capi- tals which surround the piers and half piers like a band of leaves, and the squareness of the piers with their nook shafts ; all these serve to make a wide distinction between this example and those of the genuine Gothic ; and they are rarely' found so completely united even in Italian churches. Each com- partment of the side aisle has two arches, which open into shallow chapels." — Willis, On entering the ch., the ornaments in relief round the great doorway are by Francesco and Petronio Tadolini. Over the pilasters of the side doors are two circular groups in relief, one by P. Lombardo, representing the Annun- ciation, the Qther Adam find Eve in Paradise, generally attributed to Tri- bolo. In the chapels on the rt. there are several objects to engage attention. The 2nd, dedicated to St. Bridget, is the chapel of the Pepolis, so celebrated in the history of Bologna; and some of the pictures contain portraits, it is said, of members of that illustrious family. The painting of the Assumption has been attributed to Guido; but it was more probably only retouched by him. Those on the side walls, painted between 1417 and 1431, are curious ; the figure praying on the 1. bears the inscription, Sofia de Inghilterafefa; evidently re- presenting the Donatoria, or the person at whose expense the work was exe- cuted; that opposite was painted by Luca and Francesco da Peruyiay in 1417, and represents the Virgin, Child, and Saints, with portrait of the Dona- torio Bartolommeo da Milano, a mer- chant. Beyond the 3rd chapel is a monument, by Pacchioni, raised by the municipal authorities to the memory of Cardinal Opizzoni, more than 50 years Archbishop of Bologna, who, after charities most liberal during his life- time, left all he possessed to his adopted city for charitable purposes. The fine painted glass in the 4th chapel is by the Beato Giac. da Ulma. 6th — St. Jerome, by Lorenzo Costa, spoiled by retouching. 8th, belonging to the Malvezzi Campeggi families. The marble ornaments on the screen of this chapel were designed by Vignola, and are said to have cost him the loss of his situation as architect to the ch. through the jealousy of his rival Ranuccio. The St. Francis is by Mastelletta ; and the St. Antony raising the dead man to liberate the father, who is unjustly condemned, is by Lorenzo Pasinelli : the tarsia- work, with some good arabasque orna- ornaments in wood carving, on the sides was formerly in the choir of the ch. of San Michele in Bosco, and was executed by Fra Raffade da Brescia, 9th— Chapel of St. Antony of Padua. The marble statue of the Saint over the altar is by Sansovino. His miracles paiuted on the walls in chiar'-oscuro are fine works by Girolamo da Treviso, Th^ beautiful ROxMAGNA. liOiite 61, — Bologna: Churches ; San Pet ronio, 537 windows of painted glass are celebrated as having been made from the de- signs of Michel Amiclo ; they contain 8 figures of Saints, and S. Antony in a lunette above. 10th — the large painting of the Coronation of the Madonna del Borgo S. Pietro on the side wall, and the frescoes in chiar-'oscuro opposite it, are by Francesco Brizzi, a favourite pupil of the Caracci : he commenced life as a journeyman shoemaker, and became the principal assistant of Lodovico. 11th — The bas-relief of the Assumption, by Tribolo, stood formerly at the high altar in the ch. of La Madonna di Galliera. The angels over the altar are by Proper zia de' Rossi, The walls of this chapel sup- port the entire weight of the Campa- nile. On each side of the high altar the two marble statues of St. Francis and St. Dominick are by Girolamo Carnpagna ; the large picture in the choir by FrancescJnni. Crossing to the 1. aisle — 10th chapel, reckoning from the great entrance to the ch. (1.) The Sta. Barbara, over the altar, is consi- dered the best work of Tiarini. 9th— the Archangel Michael, by Calvaert (Fiammingo), which may in some degree explain the celebrated picture by his pupil Guido in the ch. of the Capu- chins at Rome ; this chapel has a hand- some iron railing of the 15th century, erected by Antonio Barbaca and his wife Margarita Pepoli. 8th— St. Roch, a portrait of Fabrizio da Milano, by Parmegianino. 7th — the Chapel of the Baciocchi family, contains the Tombs of the Princess Eliza Baciocchi, the sister of Napoleon, of her husband, on the rt., and opposite of 3 of her children, with a good altarpiece by Costa, of the Madonna and Saints ; and a fine painted glass window. 5th — the Annunciation, in two portions, upon the wall in front, and the 12 Apostles on the side ones, are among the finest works of Costa ; over the altar the martyrdom of St. Sebastian is in his earlier manner. The Magdalen at the feet of Jesus, by F. Brizzi. The Tarsia-work beneath was executed in 1495, by Agostino da Crema. The pavement of enamelled tiles dates from the earliest times of this kind of manufacture, 1487. On the pilaster between this and the next chapel is a statue in wood of S. Petronius, believed to be the most ancient like- ness of that saint extant, but it has been so altered by frequent restora- tions that little probably of the original countenance now remains. 4th chapel — the paintings of the Magi, and of the Paradiso and Inferno here, for- merly attributed to Giotto, and sub- sequently by Vasari to Buffalmacco, are now generally considered to have been painted by Simone da Bologna, or by Giovanni da Modena, very early in the 15th centy. In the 2nd chapel, rebuilt by Torregiani at the expense of Cardinal Aldrovandi, whose tomb is placed in it, is preserved the head of S. Petronius, removed by order of Benedict XIV. from the ch. of S. Ste- fano. This chapel was gaudily re- stored in 1743, when the head was brought to it, and is also that in which Divine service was first performed in 1392. Some very ancient frescoes of the Crucifixion and Adoration of the Magi have been lately discovered on the walls of the chapel next to this and to the entrance to the church. On each side of the aisle are several mediDcval crosses, said to have been placed at the several gates of the city by St. Petro- nius : one bears the date of 1159. On the floor of S. Petronio is traced the celebrated meridian line of Gian Domenico Cassini, 220 Eng. ft. long: it was substituted in 1653 for that of P. Jgnazio Danti. It was in the ch. of S. Petronio that the Em- peror Charles V. was crowned by Cle- ment VII. on 24th Feb. 1530. The halls of the Residenza della Fabhrica, adjoining, contain a highly interesting series of original designs for the still unfinished fa9ade, by the first architects of the period. 3 of these are by Pal- ladio ; another bears the following in- scription in his own hand, " Laudo il presente disegno,'* and has, no doubt erroneously, been attributed to him. There are 2 by Vignola ; 1 by Giaconio Ranuccio, his great rival ; 1 by Do- menico Tibaldi ; 3 by Baldassare Peruzzi; 1 by Giulio Romano and Cristoforo Lombardo ; 1 by Gh'olanio 2 A 3 538 Route ^1, — Bologna: Churches ; San Petronio, Sect. VII. Rainaldi ; 1 by Francesco Terribilia, which received the approbation of the senate in 1580, and was published by Cicognara in his History of Sculpture ; 1 by Varignano ; I by Giacomo di Andrea da Formigine; 1 by Alberto Alberti, of Borgo San Sepolcro ; and 3 by unknown artists. Over the entrance door is the marble bust of Count Guido Pepoli, by Properzia de Rossi, supposed to be that ordered by his son Alessandro, to prove the powers of that extraordinary woman, as mentioned by Vasari. In the 2nd chamber is her masterpiece, the bas-relief of Joseph and the wife of Potiphar, believed to allude to the history of her own mis- fortunes. The life of that celebrated and accomplished woman, at once a painter, sculptor, engraver, and musi- cian, is one of the most tragical episodes in the annals of art; "Final- mente,'* says Vasari, in a passage which will hardly bear translating, "alia povera inamorata giovane ogni cosa riusci per- fettissimamente, eccetto il suo infelicis-. simo amore." She died of love at the very moment when Clement VII., after performing the coronation of Charles V. in this church, where he had seen and appreciated her genius, expressed his desire to take her with him to Rome. Vasari records the touching answer given to his Holiness : Sta in chiesa, e gli si fa ilfunerale ! The Sacristy contains a series of 22 pictures, representing various events in the history of S. Petronius from his bap- tism to his death, by Ferrari, Francesco Colonna, Mazzoni, and others. The inside of the ch. of San Petronio has undergone a thorough repair, during which some early frescoes of the 14th century were discovered under the whitewash on the 4 first columns of th*» nave, they have been since re- moved. Over the great door of this ch. stood the celebrated colossal bronze statue of Julius II. executed by Michel Angelo after their reconciliation on the subject of the Moses. The pope was represented with the keys of St. Pe- ter and a sword in his 1. hand, and in the act of blessing or reprimanding the Bolognese with his rt. But this great masterpiece existed for only 3 years. In 1511, on the return of the Bentivoglio party to power, it was destroyed by the people, and the bronze, said to have weighed 17,500 lbs., was sold to the Duke of Ferrara, who con- verted it into a piece of ordnance, under the appropriate name of the Julian, It is recorded of this statue, the loss of which will ever be deplored by the lovers of art, that, when Michel Angelo asked the warlike pontiff whether he should put a book in his left hand, he replied, " A book ! no : let me grasp a sword; I know nothing of letters." The Ch. of ^S'. Procolo in the Via di S. Mamolo, belonged before the French occupation to the Benedictine monks of Monte Cassino ; its founda- tion is of very ancient date, but the present one was built in 1536. Over the principal entrance is a Vir- gin and Child with S. Sixtus and S. Benedict, a good example .by Lippo di Balmasio, painted in oil, and therefore adduced by Malvasia and Tiarini as a proof of the much higher antiquity of oil-painting than Vasari had supposed. Beneath the organ is the Almighty surrounded by a glory of Angels over the Magi, in relief, copied by Cesi from a design of Baldassare Peruzzi, for- merly in the Bentivoglio palace. In the 2nd chapel on rt., the St. Benedict in ecstasy is also by Cesi, who is buried in this ch. In the 4th on 1.. the Virgin in glory, with St. Benedict below, is one of the last works of Ercole Graziani the younger. In the 2nd chapel, designed by Torreggiani, is the marble urn over the altar in which are preserved the bodies of the 2 martyrs who gave their names to this ch. — S. Proculus, a soldier, and S. Proculus, a bi- shop, found in the ancient subterranean ch. in 1390. In the 1st chapel on 1., the S. Maurus is by Ercole Graziani. On a wall near the door of the ch. the follow- ing inscription to the memory of a person called Procolo, buried in the ch., who was killed by one of the bells falling on him as he was passing under the campa- nile, was much admired in the last cen- tury, when this kind of play upon words was more in fashion than it is now : — EOMAGNA. Route 61. — Bologna: Churches, 539 '• Si prociil a Proculo Proculi campana fuisset, Nunc procul a Proculo Proculus ipse foret." A.D. 1393. The Ch. of S. Rocco, near the Porta Isaiii, converted in 1801 into a " Camera Mortuaria,'* where the dead are depo- sited before being carried to the Campo Santo, is remarkable for one of those agreeable examples of generous and patriotic rivalry for which the school of Bologna was particularly distin- guished. The oratory is covered with the frescoes of the young artists of the period, who, for no greater sum than two pistoles each, adorned its walls with paintings illustrating the life of S. Roch, and other suitable subjects. Their zeal- ous emulation has been justly described as a *' tournament of painting/* They represent events in the life of the saint, and of the patron saints of Bologna. The Ch. of the Santissimo Salva- tore, in the street leading from the Piazza S. Francesco to the P. Mag- giore, has some interesting paintings. In the 1st chapel is the Beato A. Canetoli refusing the Archbishopric of Florence, by Ercole Graziani. In the 2nd is a Re- surrection, by Mastelletta. In the 4th, the Adoration of the Magi, by Prospero Fontana. The Miracle of the Crucifix bears the inscription, ^^Jacobi Coppi, civis Florentini, opus, 1579," and is mentioned by Lanzi as one of the best pictures in Bologna prior to the time of the Caracci. A picture of the Virgin and St. Thomas, by Girolamo da Treviso^ formerly at the altar " de' Scolari In- glesi *' in the old ch. The Judith going to meet the Hebrew Damsels with the Head of Holofernes is by Mastelletta. The Virgin holding the Infant Saviour to St. Catherine, with St. Sebastian and St. Roch, is a fine work of Girolamo de* Carpi. The finely-preserved painting of the Virgin crowned, underneath this picture, is of the 14th century. In the choir, the Saviour bearing his cross was designed by Gvido^ who painted the head, and retouched the whole picture, after it was finished by Gessi. Of the 4 Prophets, the David is by Cavedone. The subjects illustrating the miraculous crucifix are by Brizzi^ and the St. Jerome is by Carlo Bonone. In the 6th chapel is a striking Nativity by Tiarini ; in the 7th, a fine Crucifixion surrounded by Saints, by Innoccnzo da Imola ; in the 8th, the Ascension, by Carlo Bonone ; in the 9th, St. John kneeling before the aged Zacharias, by Garofalo. The 4 doctors of the Church, painted over the 4 small chapels, are by Cavedone. The large picture over the door, re- presenting the Marriage of Cana, is by Gaetano Gandolfi, a modern painter of Bologna. In the Sacristy, the frescoes of the roof are by Cavedone ; and in an adjoining room the S. Dominick is attributed to Guercino ; and the St. John the Baptist, with the Lamb, to Simone Cantarini; the Madonna is by Mastelletta. Guercino was buried in this ch., but without any inscription or monument. There are several inte- resting MSS. regarding the history of Bologna in the Library of the adjoin- ing Convent. The Ch. of the Servi, or Sta. Maria de' Servi, in the Via Maggiore. Forming a square in front, and flanking it to- wards the street, is the grand Portico de' Servi, built upon marble columns, in 1392, by Fra Andrea Manfredi of Faenza, General of the Servites, which has a series of frescoes in the lunettes, illustrating various events in the life of S. Filippo Benizzi. Of these 20 sub- jects, the principal are by Cignani Gio- vanni Viani, Peruzzini, Giuseppe Mitelli, Lorenzo Borgonzoni, &c. The interior is a good specimen of the Italian Gothic of the 15thcenty., and has an imposing appearance. The nave is separated from the side aisles by good pointed arches, supported alternately on circu- lar and eight-sided columns, over each of which is a round window, bnt all the painted glass which once filled them has disappeared, and the aisles are prolonged round the choir, having numerous chapels. It contains some fine paintings. In the 2nd chapel on the rt., the Virgin giving the conventual dress to the 7 founders of the order is one of the last works of Franceschini, painted by him when nearly 85 years of age. 4th, the Death of Sta. Giuliana Falconieri is by Ercole Graziani. 5th, the Paradise, a large and elaborate work, by Calvaert. 7th, the Madonna di Mondovi, with angels and saints. 540 Route 61. — Bologna : Churches ; San Stefano. Sect. VII. John the Baptist, S. James, and S. Francesco di Paolo, by Tiarini. 8th, the Virgin appearing to S. Filippo Benizzi. In the 10th chapel is pre- served a marble pitcher, not seen, said to have been used at the marriage of Cana, presented by Fra Vitale Baccilieri, Ge- neral of the Servites, who had been am- bassador to the Sultan of Egypt in 1350. The monument of Lodovico Leoni, over the door of the Sacristy, is by Gia- como Banuccio. In the 1 2th chapel, the miracle of S. Gregory at mass is by Aretusi and Fiorini. In the 14th, the Virgin and Child painted on the wall, and 2 saints by the side, are by Lippo di Dalmasio ; opposite, the Beato Gioac- chino Piccolomini fainting during the celebration of mass is by Ercole Gra- ziani ; the small Madonna above it is another work of Dalmasio. 15th, St. Joachim and St. Anna, by Tiariiii. On the opposite wall is a painting of the Virgin enthroned, of the 14th centy. On the back wall of the choir is the slab-tomb of Fra Andrea Manfredi of Faenza, the eminent architect and gene- ral of the order, by whom the ch. was founded (ob. 1396). 16th, S. Onofrio, by Calvaert. In the 9th chapel on 1., the fresco representing S. Carlo was painted by Guido, gratuitously, in one day. 7th, the Annunciation, a very beautiful work by Innocetizo da Imola, The frescoes of the roof and side walls are by Bagnacavallo, 24th, or 5th onl., the St. Andrew kneeling before the Cross prepared for his martyrdom, a fine picture by Alhani. The monument of the Cardinal Ulisse Gozzadini in this chapel has a portrait of that prelate in Roman mosaic. 3rd on 1., the Noli- me-tangere is another fine work of Al- hani. The large painting of the Nativity of the Virgin, with numerous figures on the wall over the principal entrance, was the last work of Tiarini. San Stefaiio, the most ancient ec- clesiastical edifice in Bologna, and one of the oldest in Italy, is quite a labyrinth, formed by the union of 7 churches. Entering from the piazza by the large portal is what is called the church of the Crocijisso, from a painting of the Crucifixion over the high altar. This, as well as another of our Saviour bearing the Cross, is probably of the 15th cent. In the second chapel is a painting by Teresa Muratori and her master Giuseppe Dal Sole, representing a father supplicating St. Benedict to intercede for his dying son. Descending some steps, on the 1. is the Banzi Chapel, in which a Eoman marble sarcophagus behind the altar contains the body of the Beata Giuliana de' Banzi. This is called the second church. The third, del Santo Sepolcro, is a circular build- ing, supposed to have been the ancient Lombard Baptistery. The marble co- lumns are said to have been derived from a neighbouring temple of Isis. The marble urn beneath the altar, with its ancient symbols, was erected to receive the body of S. Petronius, who is said to have imparted mira- culous qualities to the water of the well. The paintings which covered the walls of its circular aisle have entirely disappeared under a series of modern daubs. There is a very ancient rude Ambo behind the altar, with sculptures of the emblems of the Evangelists. The fourth church, dedicated to SS. Peter and Paul, is supposed to have been the primitive Cathedral, founded by S. Faustinianus, A.D. 330. It contains, in a chapel on rt. of the high altar, a painted Crucifix, by Simon e da Bologna, known also as Simone dai Crocifissi, from the excel- lence with which he treated such sub- jects ; it bears'his name, '^Symon fecit hoc opus." There is an Ionic capital in this ch., apparently antique. The painting of the Madonna and Child, with St. Nicholas, and St. John, is by Sahhatini. That of St. James, St. John, and St. Francis is referred to Lippo di Dalmasio. This ch. has some general resemblance to our old Norman buildings, from its massive piers and coupled columns, on some of which early frescoes of saints have been lately discovered under the white- wash. The Jifth church is formed out of the small forecourt called the.Atrio di Pilato. In the centre of it is a mediaeval font, called of Liutprand, which once stood in the centre of the Lombard Baptistery. In this court RoMAGNA. Eoute 61. — Bologna : Piazza Maggion 641 are two marble sarcophagi, appropriated ill former times by the Orsi and Bertiic- cini families; one of them at least is an ancient Christian urn, and is an interesting relic. Opening out of it is a chapel with a good painting of St. Jerome adoring the Saviour on the Cross, by Giacomo Francia, and tlie hall of the Coinpaynia del Lomhardij which was erected by Benedict XIV.; the keys of the gates of Iniola, cap- tured by the Bolognese in 1322, are preserved here. From the Atrio di Pi- lato opens the chapel of the Santissima Triaita, also in a Lombardo-Gothic style, from which we enter an enclosed lower corridor of a cloister called the Ch. of the Madonna della Consola- zione from a miraculous working image of the Virgin placed in it. On the walls of this ch. have been placed several paintings of saints of the 14th century, some good, but which stood in other parts of S. Stefano. From this enclosed corridor we de- scend into the 7th, or of the Confessione, a kind of crypt, remarkable only for its ancient columns with bas-reliefs, and as containing the bodies of 2 native saints and martyrs, Vitalis and Agricola. The Madonna in the wall is said to have been placed here, in 488, by S. Giocondo, bishop of the diocese. One of the pil- lars professes to represent the exact height of our Saviour. Last of all is a small handsome cloister, the upper gallery supported by twin columns forming round arches, some of the capitals formed by whimsical figures of men and animals. Mear the exit from here the church, called la SS- Trinita, also contains some interest, ing works of ancient art, a few of which are regarded as contemporane- ous with S. Petronius. The St. Mar- tin, bishop, praying for the restora- tion of a dead child to life, is by Tiarini^ a repetition of the same subject paint- ed for the ch. of S. Uocco. The S, Ursula, on a pillar, is by Slmoue da Bologna; and the Holy Trinity is by Samacchini. S. Stefano is celebrated for its relics, among which are the bodies of 40 martyrs, brought by S. Petro- nius from Jerusalem, In the chapel of the Relics is a curious reliquiary, with enamels, by Jflco/;o Rossetti^ 1380. On the outer wall of S. Stefano oppo- site the Via di Gerusalemme is an inscription recording the existence of a Temple of Isis, already mentioned as occupying this site. The Ch. of the SS. Trinita, in the Strada S. Stefano, not far from the gate, has, at the 2nd altar, the Birth of the Virgin, by Lavinia Fontana. At the high altar is the S. Roch supplicating the Virgin, by Gaercino, At the 7th altar is the Madonna in glory, with SS. Jerome, Francis, Doninus, and Apol- lonia, and some children playing with the cardinal's hat, by Gio. Batiista Gcn- nari, of Cento. The very ancient ch. of SS. Vitale ed Agricola, giving its name to the street leading towards Ravenna, consecrated in 428 by St. Petronius and St. Ambrose, preserves nothing of its ancient archi- tecture. In the 1st chapel on 1. a graceful painting of F. Francia, cover- ing the ancient image of the Madonna, and on each side of it 2 fine frescoes, one representing the Nativity, by his son Giacomo, and the other the Visita- tion of Mary and Elizabeth, with por- traits of the Donatorii, by Bagnacavallo, Opposite is an inscription recording the consecration of the ch. : the column, with a cross of the early Christians, brought here in 1832, formerly stood on the spot in the adjoining street where S. Vitalis and S. Agricola suf- fered martyrdom. The 2nd chapel on rt. has a picture by Tiarini, the Virgin dismounting from the ass during the flight from Egypt. Opposite to the Ch. of S. Vitale is the Fantuzzi Palace, now the property of a retired opera singer ; at each ex- tremity is the armoirie parlante of the first owners, an elephant with a castle on his back. The Piazza MACiCioRE, now di Vit- tore Emanuele, was the Forum of Bologna in the middle ages : it is still surrounded by remarkable edifices rich in historical associations, the relics of the once formidable republic. It was considered by Evelyn, in his time, as the most stately piazza in Italy, with 542 Roide 61. — Bologna: Piazza Maggiore, Sect. Vll. the single exception of that of San Marco at Venice. The ch. of San Pe- tronio has been ah'eady described ; the other buildings which give an interest to this square are the Palazzo Pubblico, the Palazzo del Podesta, and the Portico de* Banchi. In the Piazza dell a Fon- tana, opening out of the Corso, the at- tention of the traveller is arrested by the magnificent Fontana Puhhlica, or Fontana di NeWino, constructed in 1564, while Cardinal (afterwards S. Carlo) Borro- meo was legate : the general design is by Lauretti ; the pedestal and the basin are by Antonio Lupi ; and the Neptune, with the other figures and bronze orna- ments, are by Giovanni di Bologna. The Neptune, one of the most celebrated works of that great sculptor, is 8 ft. high, and the weight of the bronze em- ployed in the figures is said to be 20,012 Bolognese pounds. The cost of the fountain, with its pipes and aqueducts, amounted to 70,000 golden scudi. The merits of the Neptune have been very differently estimated by different critics. Forsyth says he " saw nothing so grand in sculpture" at Bologna: *nhe Nep- tune is admired for the style, anatomy, and technical details: his air and ex- pression are truly noble, powerful, commanding — perhaps too command- ing for his situation.'' John Bell, on the other hand (an authority on such a subject), says, *' Neptune, who pre- sides over the fountain, is a colossal heavy figure, in the act of preaching and wondering at, rather than com- manding, the waves of the ocean ; boys in the 4 corners are represented as having bathed small dolphins, which they are holding by the tail to make them spout water ; while 4 female Tri- tons fill the space beneath ; these fold their marine extremities between their limbs, and press their bosom with their hands, to cause the water to flow. The whole composition and manner is quaint, somewhat in the French style, and such as I should have been less surprised to find at Versailles than at Bologna." The Palazzo Puhhlico^ or del Governo, begun at the end of the 13th century, is one of the great public monuments of the city. Prior to 1848 it was the residence of the Legate and of the Senator, as it is now of the Civil Go- vernor. Its fa9ade still exhibits some traces of the Pointed style in its eight walled-up windows, but the building has been so altered at various periods, that little uniformity remains. In the upper part of the facade, under a canopy, is a Madonna in high relief, by Nicolb deir Area, in terra-cotta, once gilt. The ornaments of the clock are by Tadolini, The entrance gateway is by Galeazzo Alessi (1^10) : the bronze statue of Gre- gory XIII. (a native of Bologna), in the niche over the gateway, was erected at the cost of his fellow -citizens ; it is by Alessandro Menganti, called by Agostino Caracci the " unknown Michael Angelo." After the revolution of 1796, in order to save the statue by converting it into that of the patron saint of the Bo- lognese, the tiara was changed for a mitre, and a huge pastoral staff placed in the right hand, with the inscrip- tion " Divus Petronius Protector et Pater." The pastoral staff is quite out of proportion with the dimensions of the statue. On entering the building is the great court, handsomely re- stored, and beyond in the 3rd court, formerly a garden, we find the beautiful cistern constructed by Terrihiliay at the cost of 6000 scudi. A grand staircase a cordoni of 53 steps, by Bramante, leads us to the upper halls. The bronze bust of Benedict XIV., and the ornaments over the door where it is placed, are by Giobattista Bolognini. The great Saloon of Hercules takes its name from his colossal statue by Alfonso Lombardo, On the rt. is a hall, covered with frescoes, the architectural portions of which are by Antonio Bibiena ; the figures on the ceiling are by Angela Bigari, and those on the walls by Sea- 7-abelli. In the adjoining chapel is a fresco of the Virgin, called the Ma- donna del Terremoto, supposed to have been painted by the school of Francia in 1505. The gallery leading out of the Hall of Hercules is covered with frescoes illustrating the glories of Bo- logna by Colonna and Pizzoli. The Sala Farnese, so called from a bronze statue of Paul III., is perhaps the most EOMAGNA. Route 61. — Bologna : Palaces, 543 magnificent. Its roof and walls are covered with paintings representing the history of the city, by Cignani, Francesco Qnaini, Scaramuccia, Pasi- nelli, the elder Bibiena, and other emi- nent artists. The Palazzo del Podesta was begnn in 1201, the fagade added in 1485 by Bartolommeo Fioravanti : although still an imfinished building, it has an air of grandeur which accords with its cha- racter as the ancient seat of municipal authority : the front consists of a por- tico of 9 square-headed arches, sur- mounted by a gallery, and by a second row of arches which are separated by highly decorated Ionic pilasters. Its greatest interest, however, is derived from its having been the prison of Hensius, King of Sardinia, and natural son of the Emp. Frederick II., cap- tured by the Bolognese at the battle of Fossalta in 1249, and kept here a prisoner utitil his death in 1272. The history of this unfortunate prince whose monument we have already noticed in the account of the ch. of S. Domenico, offers a singular illustration of the manners of the middle ages. The haughty republic rejected all the over- tures of the emperor for the restitution of his son, and his threats and treasures were of no avail in the attempt to obtain his liberty. During his long imprison- ment the prince employed his time in poetical compositions, some of which are marked by considerable taste. The young king moreover was beloved in his captivity by a fair damsel of Bologna, Lucia Vendagoli, who succeeded in visiting him under various disguises ; and the Bentivoglio family is believed to derive its origin from these mys- terious meetings. The great hall is still called Sala del Re Enzio, although there is no proof that it was occu- pied by him; its size, 170 feet by 74, would almost seem conclusive against such a belief. This hall has likewise had its vicissitudes: in 1410 the con- clave for the election of Pope John XXIII. was held here ; in the last century it was converted into a thea- tre ; it was afterwards used for the game of pallone; and was latterly de- graded into a workshop. In other parts of the building are the Archives of the Notaries and other public offices. The former are rich in rare and inedited materials for the history of Bologna, and indeed of Italy during the middle ages; among them is pointed out the Bull called * Dello Spirito Santo,' pub- lished at Florence, July 6, 1439, by Eugenius IV., for the union of the Greek and Latin Churches. The lofty tower, called Torrazzo deir Arincjo, rises upon arcades, is a massive and imposing pile : it was erected in 1264, for the purpose, it is said, of watching Hensius. The statues in terra-cotta of the 4 Saints projectors of the city, on brackets upon the pilasters which support its arcades, are by Afonso Lomhardo. The name of their new sovereign Vittorio Emanuele has been given by the Bolognese to the market-place ov Piazza Maggiore between this palace and*the ch. of S. Petronio. The Portico de' Banchi, occupying one side of the Piazza, and continued for the whole length of the ch. of S. Petronio under the name of P. del Pavaglione, forming a continuous ar- cade 300 ft. in length, was designed and executed by Vignola^ who had to adapt it to the irregularities of an older build- ing. Here are some of the most showy shops. These porticos are the Palais Koyal of Bologna. Opening out of it is the building called II Begistro, formerly the College of Notaries, presented to that body in 1283 by the learned juris- consult and chief magistrate Rolandino Passeggeri. The hall, now converted into a chapel, has a Madonna by Pas- sarotti ; the Sacristy contains, among other documents, a Diploma of the Em- peror Frederick II., confirmed by a Bull of Julius II., granting to the Correttore de' Notari the power of creating apostolical and imperial no- taries, and the singular privilege of legitimatizing natural children. Private Palaces. — The Palaces of Bologna are numerous, but they are with few exceptions scarcely deserv- ing of a visit ; the works of art which formerly gave them celebrity are gra- dually disappearing ; so that it would be difficult to give any description of their moveable contents. Their fres- coes, however, like their architecture, 5M Route Gl. — Bologna: Palaces* Sect. VII. cannot be exported ; and in both these respects there is much to engage the attention of the traveller. They gene- rally consist of a portico in front, open- ing by a handsome portal into a court of 3 sides, the 4th being left open to admit light and air ; few have a portico round the 4 sides of the inner court, as in the handsome palaces of Eome, Florence, and other large towns of Italy. Palazzo Albergati in the Strada di Sa- ragozza, is a good example of the archi- tecture of Ikildassare Fcruzzi (1540). Under this palace some foundations or Roman baths have been discovered. Palazzo Aldrovandi, now Montanari, in the Strada di Galliera, was almost entirely rebuilt in 1748, by Card. Pom- peo Aldrovandi, on a scale of grandeur worthy of that eminent scholar. The library and the gallery oi pictures col- lected by the Cardinal, and augmented by his successors, have been nearly all dispersed. Palazzo Arcivescovile, behind the Ca- thedral, the residence of the archbi- shop, was built in 1577 by Tibaldi, and has been recently restored and deco- rated with considerable taste at the cost of Cardinal Oppizzoni, Archbp. of Bo- logna. The apartments are painted by the most eminent modern artists [of Bologna, Professors FruUi, Pedrini, Fancelli, Fantuzzi, Zanotti, &c. The Palazzo Bacciocchi^ now Grabin- sld, behind the Piazza of S. Domenico, formerly Ruini, is one of the most im- posing specimens of domestic architec- ture in Bologna : its principal fa9ade is by Palladio, by whom some of the other details were probably designed. The grand hall is ornamented by Bihiena, The Palazzo Bentivoglio, in the Borgo della Paglia, beyond the Cathedral, has been frequently the residence of sove- reign princes during their visits to Bo- logna ; it recalls the magnificence of the ancient palace of the Bentivoglios, de- stroyed by the populace at the instiga- tion of Julius II., who adopted this mode of revenging himself on his great rival Annibale Bentivoglio. In the reprisals which followed, the vengeance of the populace and their chief fell, as w^e have already stated, on the statue of the pope, one of the masterpieces oi Michel Angelo. Palazzo Bevilacqiia Vinccnzi, m the Via S. Mamolo (formerly belonging to the Campeggi family), whose architec- ture is attributed to Bramantino, yields to few in the magnificence of its court. The front is a fine specimen of the Diamond Rustic style, surmounted by a good cornice, with 2 handsome round- headed gateways opening into a court, surrounded by a double colonnade, the upper one partly enclosed, of round arches. There is a very handsome balcony in this palace towards the street. In one of the chambers is an inscription recording that the Council of Trent assembled here in 1547, having removed to Bologna by the advice of the celebrated physician Fracastorius, under the pretext of contagion. Palazzo de" Bianchi, in the Strada di San Stefano, has a fine ceiling by Guido, representing the Harpies infesting the table of iEneas. Palazzo Boncampagni Ludovisi, in a street behind the N. side of the cathe- dral, was built by Gregory XIII., a na- tive of Bologna, and is a good specimen of the domestic architecture of the 16tli cent. (1545). There are some paint- ing in the great anteroom on the 1st floor, of events during the Pope's pontificate. This palace belongs to the head of the Boncampagni family, the Roman Prince of Piombino. Palazzo Fantuzzi, in the Via di S. Vitale (see p. 518). Palazzo Fava, opposite the Ch. of the Madonna di Galliera, is rich in frescoes by the Caracci. The great hall contains the first fresco painted by Agostino and Annibale, under the direc- tion of Lodovico, after their return from Parma and Venice : it represents, in a series of 18 pictures, the Ex- pedition of Jason, and is one of the most interesting examples of the Eclec- tic School. The small chamber adjoin- ing is painted by Lodovico, who has represented the : Voyage of jEneas in 12 pictures; 2r of them, the Polyphe- mus and the Harpies, were coloured by Annibale. The next chamber is painted by Albani, with the assistance of Lodovico Caracci: it presents 16 KOMAGNA. Bmite 61,^--BoIogna : Palaces, 545 subjects, also from the ^Eneid. The chamber beyond is painted by Lucio 3Iassi(rij with the assistance of the same great master. The decorations of the other chambers are by his pupils, the last room being by Ccsi ; subjects of the ^Eneid prevail through- out the whole. The paintings of a cabinet representing the Kape of Europa are by Annibale Curacci. Palazzo Grassi, in the Via di Mezzo, has the magnificent fresco by Lodovico Cciracci, representing Hercules armed with a flambeau treading on the Hydra ; and some curious cameos by Properzia de* Rossi^ engraved on peach-stones, and illustrating different events of Scripture history. Palazzo Magnani Guidottij in the Via di San Donato, is an imposing design of Domenico Tibaldl, It is celebrated for the frescoes of the 3 Caraccis, re- presenting the history of Romulus and Eemus, and not inferior either in com- position or in colour to those in the Farnese palace. They are called by Lanzi '' the miracle of Caraccescan art.'' Palazzo Ilercolani, in the Via Mag- giore, restored at the close of the last century from the designs of Venturoli, was famous throughout Europe for its pictures, sculptures, and library, rich in MSS. and printed books ; but they have nearly all disappeared. Palazzo Malvezzi BonfioHj in the Strada Maggiore, a fine specimen of palace architecture, by Vignola, has in its second court an interesting series of frescoes illustrating the Gerusalemme Liberata, by Leonello Spada^ Lucio Massari^ and Francesco BHzzi. In the gallery is a portrait by Bomenichino, a Sibyl by Guido in his early youth, and some other good works of the Bo- lognese school. Palazzo Malvezzi Campeggi, in the Via di S. Donato (the other 2 Mal- vezzi palaces are opposite the ch. of S. Giacomo, in the same street), designed by the Formigini, is remarkable for some tapestries from designs of Lucas von Leyden, presented by Hen. VIII. to Card. Campeggi, papal legate in England. Palazzo Marchesinii formerly Leo7ii^ has a fa9ade designed by Girolamo da Treviso. Under this portico is a fine Nativity by Niccolb Abate : it was damaged, however, by restoration in 1819. In the great hall and the adjoining chamber is a series of very beautiful paintings by the same master, illustrating the history of iEneas. Palazzo Marescalchif in the Via delle Asse, opposite the ch. of S. Salvatore, formerly so celebrated for its pictures by Correggio, the St. Peter of Guido, the St, Cecilia of Domenichino, and other masterpieces, has been despoiled of its principal treasures. The fa9ade is by Do. Tibaldl ; the vestibule at the top of the stairs is painted in chiar'-oscuro by Brizzi ; and so profusely has art lavished her resources here, that even the chimney-pieces are painted by the Caracci, Guido, and Tibaldi. Palazzo Marescotti, in the Via delle Grade, near the Piazza di San Dome- nico, said to have been inhabited by the Caraccis : is a good specimen of the domestic architecture of the 16th cent. ; it is in brick, and the northern facade vei'y beautiful, especially its windows in moulded terra-cotta. Palazzo Pepoli, one of the few speci- mens of domestic mediaeval architecture in Bologna that remain, a huge brick edifice, consisting of an agglomeration of several dwellings. It is situated in the Strada di Castiglione, in the rear of the Foro de' Mercanti. It was erected in 1344, and is still the residence of the Pepoli family ; it has more the ap- pearance of a castle than a palace, from its height surmounted by machicolated defences ; the 3 painted gateways lead- ing into it are good specimens of the decorated terra-cotta work of the 1.5th centy., 2 southernmost: this historical residence is allowed to foil into decay, part of it being used as a barrack. On the opposite side of the street is another palace of the same name, but of more modern architecture, built from the designs of Torri in the beginning of the last century, occupying the site of the ancient palace of the great captain Taddeo Pepoli. It is a fine building, with frescoes ofColonna and (7«n?ih*, illus- trating the history of Taddeo Pepoji, 546 Route 61. — Bologna : Palaces, Sect. VII. Palazzo Piella, formerly the Bocchi Palace, near the Cathedral, was built by Vignola for the learned Achille Bocchi, who is said to have had some share in its design. The hall on the ground-floor has a ceiling painted by Prospero Fontana ; its chief interest consists in its connexion with Bocchi, the historiographer of Bologna and founder of the Academy. Palazzo Ranuzzi, formerly Lamher- tinif in the Via di S. Stefano, built from the designs of Bartolommeo Triachini, is interesting for its paint- ings by Bolognes6 masters prior to the Caracci. The most remarkable of these works are the ceiling of the upper hall by Tommaso Lauretti, the Virtues by Lorenzo Sahhatini, the Fall of Icarus by Orazio 8amacchini, and the Death of Hercules by Tihaldi. Palazzo Zampieri, in the Strada Maggiore, 244, once so celebrated for the treasures of its gallery; its best pictures have been sold; the greater part have been transferred to the Brera Gallery at Milan. But its fine ceilings and chimney-pieces, by the Caracci and Guercino, are well pre- served and will amply repay a visit. — I. In the 1st hall, the ceiling, painted by Lodovico Caracci, represents Jupiter with the Eagle and Hercules ; " in form, dignity of feature, and magnificence of character,'* says John Bell, ** finely suited to harmonise as a group. The muscular figure and gigantic bulk of Hercules is imposing without extrava- gance ; a perfect acquaintance with the human figure is displayed with ad- mirable foreshortening and great skill and boldness in composition and execu- tion. The artist's knowledge of anatomy is discoverable from his correct pro- portions and fine bendings, but is not obtruded on the eye by caricatured or forced lines." The chimney-piece of the same apartment had a painting by Agostino (7amca,representing Ceres with her torch in search of Proserpine, and, in the background, the Rape of the latter. — II. The 2nd hall has a ceiling by Anni- hale Caracci^ representing Hercules in- structed by Virtue. — III. The ceiling of the 3rd hall, by Agostino Caracci, repre- sents Hercules and Atlas supporting the Globe. The chimney-piece of this hall, by the same master, represents Her- cules holding down Cacus, preparing to pierce him with the sharp end of his club. — IV. In the 4th hall, the ceiling, representing Hercules strangling An- taeus, is by Guercino. " A superb piece, with fine deep-toned colouring, and wonderful power of chiar'-oscuro. The figure of Hercules is very grand, but seems to have occupied rather too much of the artist's care. Antaeus is wanting in vigour; the resisting arm is not drawn with force or bulk corresponding to the action ; neither are the figures sufficiently connected. But the whole piece, although liable to these criticisms, is a work of great vigour and unques- ' tionable merit. In one of the accom- panying ornaments of the ceiling of the next rooms there is a beautiful little painting by Giiercino, of Love (I think it should have been Ganymede) carrying off the spoils of Hercules, the skin of the Nemean lion, and the club. The motto under it is * Iter ad superos gloria pandet.'" — Bell. Everything that could find a buyer has been removed, even to some of the beautiful works on the chinmey-pieces above mentioned. Palazzo Zamheccari, near the Piazetta di S. Paolo, No. 354, Trebbo dei Car- bonari, had a fine gallery, rich in Avorks of the Caracci and other masters. Among those that remain may be noticed Jacob's Ladder, and Abraham at table with the Angels, by Lodovico Caracci ; the Dead Christ, by Agostino ; the Sibyl, the Elijah, and the Madonna and Child, by Guercino; the Marriage of St. Catherine, by ^l- bani; portrait of Cardinal de' Medici, by Domenichino ; his own portrait, by Baroccio; St. John, by Caravaggio ; a St. Sebastian, and the portrait of Charles v., by Titian; a fine Landscape by Salvator Bosa ; the Marriage of Anne Boleyn, by Giulio Romano; and the 6 Mistresses of Charles II., by Sir Peter Lely. Besides these works, there is a Crucifixion, in silver, a very beautiful work attributed to Benvenuto Cellini. On the entrance-door are 2 bronze Lion- headed knockers by Giovanni di Bologna, One pr two of the great haljs hav^ ROMAGNA. Route 61. —^Bologna : Torri AsinelU, 547 been converted into a receptacle or kind of bazaar for the sale of pictures, of which a vast number of bad ones may always be found there. An interesting modern residence is the Casa liosslni^ No. 243, in the Via Maggiore, built in 1 825 by the late great " Maestro," who resided here until the Austrian occupation, when he volun- tarily removed to Florence, and subse- quently to Paris, where he died in Nov. 1868. It is covered with Latin inscriptions in large gold letters, taken chiefly from classic writers. In the front is the following from Cicero: — " Non domo dominus, sed domino domus." On the side is an inscription from the iEneid:— " Obloquitur numeris septem discriraina vocum Inter odoratum lauri nemus." Another interesting house is that of Guercino, in which the great painter lived during his residence at Bologna : it is in the small piazza behind the Ch. of St. Nicolo degli Albari, No. 449. The house of Guido has a fresco of 2 angels holding a crown, painted by him, on the exterior. The house in which Galvani, the discoverer of that species of electricity to which he has given his name, was born, is in the Borgo delle Casse, No. 1347 ; over the door is the following inscription : — " Galvanum excepi natum liixique peremptum Cujus ab invento Junctus uterque polus." The house in which Galvani resided is in the Corso, opposite to the Albergo Suizzero. Benedict XIV. was born in the Casa Lambertini in the Via della Campane, out of the Via di San Donato. , Of the other public buildings and institutions of Bologna, one of the most interesting to the architectural antiquary is the Foro de' Mercanti, or Palazzo della Mercanzia, the best pre- served example of the ornamented Italian Gothic in the city. It was built in 1294 of moulded brickwork, and restored as it now stands in 1499 by the Bentivoglios during their politi- cal ascendency. The interior contains the Exchange and the Tribunal of Commerce. On the stairs have been of late years painted, commencing from the top, the shields of the ten corpora- tions of the city — Camhiatores, Mercanti^ Macellari, Merciari^ Orcfici, Tallegari, Drappi a lana, Drappi e Strazziolariy Speziali^ and Bamhiriari — and of the Consuls of Commerce from a.d. 1441 to 1813. Near the Foro de* Mercanti is a large open space, from which branch off four streets leading to the principal gates of the city. Here are the 2 cele- brated leaning towers, called the Torre degli Asinelli and the Torre Garisenda, the most remarkable edifices in Bologna, but so destitute of architectural at- tractions, that Mr. Matthews compares them to the ** chimney of a steam-en- gine, blown a little out of the perpen- dicular.'* The Torre degli Asinelli, be- gun in 1109 by Gherardo degli Asinelli, was shown, by the investigations of Tadolini, to have been finished at dif- ferent periods. It is a square and of mas- sive brickwork, divided into 3 portions : the lowest has a projecting battlement, which is occupied by shops ; the others diminish from below upwards in their outward diameter, whilst the inner one increases, owing to the lesser solidity and thickness of the walls as they ascend. The height of the tower is 292J feet (89*2 metres), and to the top of the lantern 321 ft., according to measurements made in 1857 by Prof. Respighi. The inclination was ascer- tained at the same time to be 1^ 16' from the vertical, or equal to 6 ft. lOj in. from the centre of gravity; that of 3 ft. 4 in., stated on the marble tablet on the W. front, having evidently been obtained by erroneous means. The direction of the inclination is to the W., quite opposite to that of the neighbouring T. Garisenda. Professor Respighi also found that the amount of inclination was different in the three portions of the shaft ; the largest in the lower one as high as the machicolated projection, less in the central one, and very small in the highest. The T. degli Asinelli can be ascended without dan- ger, the stairs being perfectly safe. There are 449 steps in all, divided into flights of 10 each, between which there are convenient landing-places. The lower stairs are for ^ shgrt way rouftcl )48 lloute 61, -^Bologna : Archiginnassio, Sect. VII. an axis, the remainder placed against the inner walls. Near the summit are two cross-groined arches, on which rests the terminal terrace, to strengthen which two others have been more recently added, On the top is a kind of lantern or belfry, containing a bell of no large dimensions, which is only tolled on very solemn or important occasions. It does not appear that the inclina- tion of the tower has undergone any change of late years. As to its use, there is every reason for believing that, like many others in Bologna, it was reared from family vanity ; as, from its mode of construction, it could scarcely have served for retreat or defence, and, being almost without windows for the admission of light, it could not have served as a place of habitation. The view from the summit is most interesting, and the panorama which it embraces so magnificent that no tra- veller visiting Bologna should omit ascending. It is entered by a low door on the S. side, where the keeper, an obliging cobbler, will be found, and who will accompany the visitor to the summit and point out the different localities seen from it. He will dis- cover at his feet the whole city spread before him ; the richly-clad hilly range, at the N. foot of which Bologna lies ; the Via Emilia stretching in a straight line for 22 m. to Castel Bolognese on one side (the E.), and on the other to Modena, with the rich plain of the Romagna towards the N. and E., and, in clear weather, the Euganean and Veronese hills beyond, and still far- ther the snow-capped peaks of the Tyrolese, Styrian, and Carinthian Alps. The other tower. La Garisenda, also called La Mozza, built by the brothers Filippo and Oddo Ga- risendi, in 1110, is 161 feet high. Its inclination, in 1792, was 8 Bo- lognese feet to the E., and 3 to the S. ; but some measurements made by Professors Bacelli and Antolini, in 1813, showed an increase of an inch and a half over the former ob- servations. Alidosi and other writers have endeavoured to maintain that the inclination of the Garisenda tower ;s the effect of ^rt ; as if Italy did not present an abundance of such examples in situations where the ground is liable to gradual sinking, and earthquakes are of common occurrence. The best answer to this absurd idea is that the courses of brick and the holes to receive the timbers of the floors are also inclined, which they certainly would not have been if the tower had been built in its present form. The Garisenda, however, has a higher in- terest than that derived from this question, since it supplied Dante with a fine simile, in which he compares the giant Antaeus, stooping to seize him and his guide, to this tower, as it is seen from beneath when the clouds are flying over it : — " Qual pare a riguardar la Garisenda Sotto il chinato, quando un nuvol vada Sovra essa si, ch' ella in contrario penda, Tal parve Anteo a me, che stava a vada I)i vederlo chinarc, e fu tal ora Che io avrei voluto ir per altra strada." Inf. xxxi. There are remains of some other similar towers in different parts of Bo- logna, especially two on either side of the Archbishop's Palace, the bases of which are built of blocks of gypsum ; being mutilated, neither attain a great height. The noble building opening out the Portico del Pavaglione adjoining San Petronio, called the ArcMginnassio, once the seat of the university, then de- signated as the Scuole and Studio Pub- blico, before it was transferred to its present site, is one of the finest edifices in Bologna. It was designed in 1562, by Terrihilia, and consists of a hand- some cortile surrounded by a Doric portico below, and an Ionic loggia above. The building has been re- cently restored at the expense of the municipality, for the purpose of placing the public library, or Bihlio- teca del Comune, formed chiefly by a learned ecclesiastic, Magnani, who bequeathed it to his native city. The apartments once appropriated to the schools have some good paintings by Samacch'ini, Sabbatini.and their scholars. Under the portico, and in the loggie above are several interesting me- morials of deceased professors ; that Romagna. Route 61.— Bologna : Theatres. 640 of the physician Muratori is by his daughter Teresa ; that of the celebrated anatomist Malpighi is by Franceschini ; next to it is that of Valsalva, also a celebrated anatomist, with his bust in relief ; that of Mariani is by Carlo Cig- nani; and that of the philosopher Sbaraglia by Donato Creti. In the adjoining chapel of Sta. Maria de' Bul- gari are some paintings which deserve to be seen : the Annunciation at the high altar is by Calvacrt, and the frescoes on the walls, representing the nativity and death of the Virgin, sibyls, and pro- phets, are by Ccsi. AH the halls, gal- leries, and loggie are decorated with the coats of arms of the students of the ancient university, forming a curious and not unpleasing kind of decoration : there are many hundreds of these escutcheons, with the names and coun- try of their owners. In the upper corridors are arranged several Koman and Egyptian bas-reliefs and marbles, forming parts of the col- lections bequeathed to his native town by the eminent painter Pelagio Pelagi, the fruits of his industry for several years. The CoUegio di Spagna, in the Via di Saragoza, the Spanish college, was founded in 1364, by Cardinal Albor- noz. It was formerly remarkable for the frescoes of its portico by Anni- bale Caracci, in his youth, but they have almost disappeared. In the up- per loggia is the fine fresco by Bag- nacavallo, representing the Virgin and Child, St. Elizabeth, St. John, and St. Joseph, with an angel above scattering flowers, and the Cardinal founder kneel- ing in veneration. The great fresco of Bagnacavallo, representing Charles V. crowned in S. Petronio by Clement VII., although much injured, is by far the most interesting work, because it is a contemporary pictorial record. From this circumstance we may regard the picture as a series of authentic por- traits, in the precise costume of the period. In the ch. annexed to the college are some frescoes by C. Pro- caccini ; a St. Margaret, with Saints Jerome and Francis, by G. Francia; and in the Sacristy an Ancona in 21 compartments, by Marco Zoppo, The Collcgio Venturoli, so Called from the eminent architect of Bologna, who founded it for architectural studies in 1825, occupies the building formerly used as the Hungarian College. The pupils are educated here until their 20th year. The establishment *is well managed, and tends to keep alive the arts of design among the young stu- dents of Bologna. The marble bust of Venturoli is by Professor Demaria. The Teatro Comunale, in the Strada di San Donato, was built in 1756, on the site of the ancient palace of Gio- vanni II. Bentivoglio, which was de- stroyed by the populace at the in- stigation of Pope Julius II. The design of the theatre is by Blhiena, but it has been frequently altered and adapted to the purposes of the modern opera. The curtain, representing the Apotheosis of Felsina or Bononia is by N. Angiolini. The Teatro ContavalH, erected in 1814, in a part of the suppressed Car- melite convent of S. Martino Maggiore, The old convent stairs serve for the ap- proach to the modern theatre^ — another of those strange contrasts so frequently met with in Italy. The Teatro del Corso was built in 1805, from the designs of Santini, and is one of the most popular places of amusement in the city. In the Palazzo Bolognini, near the Strada di S. Stefano, a Casino, supplied with literary and political journals, was formed a few years ago for the conve- nience of the upper classes; musical parties, conversazioni, and balls are given here. The Accademia Fllarmonica, No. 614, Cartoleria Nova, and the Liceo Filar^ monico, in the convent of S. Giacomo, in- stitutions peculiarly appropriate to a city which boasts of being the most mu- sical in Italy, have acquired an Euro- pean reputation. The academy was founded by Vincenzo Carrati, in 1666, and has numbered among its members the most eminent professors of the 2 last centuries. The Lyceum, found- ed in 1805, by the municipality, as a 550 Route Q\.^ Bologna : Utwirons. Sect. Vll. school of music, is enriched with the unrivalled musical library and collec- tions of the celebrated Padre Martini. The library contains no less than 1 7,000 volumes of printed music, and the finest collection of ancient manuscript music in existence. There is an interesting collection of portraits of professors and dilettanti, another of antique instru- ments, and a fine series of choir-books with miniatures. The Montagnuola^ a slight elevation at the N. extremity of the town, was converted, during the occupation of the French, into a public promenade, the only one within the walls. Environs of Bologna, — Outside the Porta di Castiglione is the ch. of La Misericordia, ruined in the wars of the 1 5th century, and partly rebuilt with little regard to the uniformity of the original plan. It contains some pictures of interest. The Annuncia- tion, on the wall over the entrance, is by Passerotti; the Virgin, called La Madonna della Consolazione, at the 2nd altar, is by Lippo di Dalmasio ; at the 5th is the Descent of the Holy Spirit, by Cesi; at the 6th, an An- nunciation, by U. Gandolfi ; in the choir, a picture in 3 portions, — the upper, consisting of a half figure of the Saviour, and 2 good female heads, is probably by F. Francia — the cen- tral portion, a Nativity, and the lower one, a Virgin and Saints, by a very inferior hand; 8th, or l.-hand tran- sept, the Tabernacle, supported by 4 Doctors of the Church, is carved in cypress wood by Marco Tedesco of Cre- mona, an able sculptor in wood of the 17th century, who also executed the ornaments of the organ and singing gallery. The ancient little church of the Madonna di Mezzaratta, near the Porta di Castiglione, built in 1106, for- merly one of the depositories of sacred Italian art. A considerable part of the building had fallen down, and what remained, having been pur- chased by Cav, Minghetti, has been cleaned and restored. The frescoes are attributed to Jacopo Avanzi, Galasso Ga- lassi, Simone da Bologna^ and other early artists of the Bolognese school, and are interesting as its earliest efforts, al- though as works of art far behind their contemporaries of the Tuscan, Umbrian, and Lombard. The Marriage of Jacob and Rachel, attributed to Galasso Ga- lassi, is one of the most curious. The frescoes here are, however, worth a visit. Not far from this are the Bagni di Mario, an octagonal building, con- structed in 1564, by Tommaso Lau- retti, for the purpose of collecting and purifying the water for the Fountain of Neptune. It derives its name from the ruins of the ancient aqueduct, built, it is said, by Marius, and restored by Hadrian and Antoninus Pius, as shown by inscriptions in the Museum. On the hill above Bologna, beauti- fully situated, stands the ch. of San Michele in Bosco, attached to the sup- pressed monastery of the Olivetans. This great establishment, in the time of Bishop Burnet one of the finest ex- amples of monastic splendour in Italy, was suppressed at the French invasion ; its magnificent halls were converted into barracks and prisons for condemned criminals, and its best pictures were carried to Paris. The walls and ceil- ings, painted by Ludovico Caracci and his school, are gradually falling into ruin, and the famous cloister, which was entirely decorated by 37 subjects by these great artists, is now a melan- choly wreck. Many of the paintings have entirely disappeared, and of those which remain the subjects are hardly to be distinguished. They represented the history of St. Benedict and St. Cecilia, St. Tiburtius and Sta. Valeriana: the one by Guido was retouched by himself only a few years before his death. The library of the convent, built from the designs of Giovanni Giacomo Monti, had in its several compartments paintings illustrating the subjects of the works contained in them ; they were executed by Canuti, a pupil of Guido, at the suggestion of the Abbate Pepoli, but they have shared in the general ruin. In the splendid dormitory, 427 ft. in length, are preserved the dial of the KoMAGNA. Koute 61. — Bologna : Environs, 551 clock paiuted by Innocenzo da Tniola with figures and festoons of fruit; several models of sculpture, amongst others of a horse by Canova, and of Gian di Bologna's Neptune ; and several pictures belonging to the Pinacotheca, which, for want of room at the Acca- demia, have been brought here. The ch. contains some good paint- ings. In the 1st chapel, a copy of Guercino's Beato Tolomeo, which is now in France, and once stood here, 2nd, the Death of San Carlo, and, 3rd, the S. Francesca Romana, both by Fiorim. 4th. In this chapel is the monument of Ramazzotti, a condot- tiere in the service of the Popes in the 16th century, by A. Lombardo. The 4 medallions on the roof are by Cif/nani. The large lunette of S Michael at the high altar, and the cupola over it, are by Canuti. In the sacristy are frescoes of 13 saints by Bar/nacavallo. The other paintings have suffered greatly, the apartment having long been used as a hay-store. The conventual buildings of S. Mi- chele in Bosco were converted into a barrack, and the fine halls of the Ulivetan monks occupied by soldiery, during the Austrian occupation. The ch. is generally closed; the grounds and gardens have been converted into a promenade ; and a fine road leads to the convent from the Porta di S. Mamolo, constructed by the mu- nicipality, obliged to do so by the Austrian authorities, to connect it with their park of artillery below, St. Mi- chele being a strong military position commanding the city. The Conven- tual buildings have been converted into a Royal villa, and surrounded by handsome gardens for the use of the so- vereign and the royal family, who reside in it during their visits to Bologna. On the hill opposite rises a Grecian man- sion, built by Aldini, one of Napoleon's ministers under the kingdom of Italy. Its proprietor was forced to abandon it, to allow of its being converted into an Austrian military position. The view of the city, and of the plain of the Romagna, is very fine from this point. Outside the gate called La Porta di Saragozza, lately restored by the mu- nicipality, is the fine arch designed by Monti in 1675 as a propylajum or en« trance to the celebrated Portico leading to the Madonna di S. Lnca. This ex- traordinary example of public spirit and devotion, which we regret to say sus- tained damage from the Austrian soldiery in 1 849, was projected by the Canon Zeneroli of Pieve di Cento, who pre- sented to the senate his memorial on the subject in 1672. On the 28th June, 1674, the first stone was laid between what are now the 130th and 131st arches. The portico is 1 2ft. broad and 1 5ft. high, and consists of 2 portions, one called the Portico della Pianura, the other the P. della Salita ; it is not in a straight line, but has several angles or turnings in consequence of the irregularity of the ground. In 1676 the whole portico of the plain, consisting of 306 arches, was completed at the cost of 90,900 scudi. Here the Portico della Salita begins, and is united to the 1st portico by the grand arch, called, from the neighbouring torrent, the *' Arco di Meloncello," built at the cost of the Monti family, from the designs of Bi- biena. The difficulties of the ascent were skilfully overcome; and the money was raised by the voluntary contribu- tions of the inhabitants, aided by the donations of the corporation and reli* gious communities, as is shown by the inscriptions recording their benefac- tions. The theatres even promoted the work by presenting the proceeds of several performances given for the purpose. From 1676 to 1730, 329 arches of the ascent were finished, with the 15 chapels of the Rosary, at the cost of 170,300 scudi; and in 1739 the entire portico was completed, includ- ing, from the Porta di Saragozza to the ch., no less than 635 arches, occupying a space little short of 3 m. in length. The magnificent ch., occupying the summit of the Monte della Guardia, derives its name of the Madonna di S. Liica from one of those numerous black images of the Virgin traditionally attributed to St. Luke. It is said to have been brought to this spot in 1160, by a hermit from Constantinople ; and is still regarded with so much venera- tion, that its annual visit to the city is B5i Route 6i.-^Bologiut ! Ceriosd. Sect. Vll. the scene of one of the greatest public festivals of the Bolognese. The church was built in the last century from the designs of Dotti, but not in the purest taste. It contains numerous paintmgs by modern artists, but none of the great Bolognese masters, excepting a Ma- donna with S. Dominick, and the 15 Mysteries of the Rosary, in the 3rd chapel on the rt., by Gnido, one of his earliest productions. The miracu- lous image of the Virgin is preserved in a recess above the high altar, in a case of marble and gilt bronze, and is still the object of pilgrim- ages. The view from Monte della Guardia is alone sufficient to repay a visit to the ch. The rich and glowing plains, from the Adriatic to the Alps and Apennines, are seen spread out like a map in the foreground, studded with villages, churches, convents, and cities, among which Ferrara, Modena, and Imola may be distinctly recognised. Towards the E. the prospect is bound- ed by the Adriatic, and on the W. and S. the eye ranges along the pic- turesque and broken line of Apennines. It is impossible to imagine a scene more charming or more beautiful. Public Cemetery. — In returning to the city, and about 1 m. from the gate of S. Isaia, is the ancient Certosa^ built in 1335 by the Carthusian monks, and suppressed in 1797. It was con- secrated in 1801 as the public cemetery, and has been much praised as one of the finest models for an extensive modern Campo Santo. It was one of the first acts of the government of Napoleon, who forbad the burial of the dead within the city ; and its regu- lations are remarkable as establishing no exclusion of sect, although separate enclosures are set apart for Protestants, Jews, and ecclesiastics, including mo- nastic individuals of both sexes. The ch. of the monastery, which has been preserved, retains many remarkable paintings : in the 1st chapel on the rt. hand, the Last Judgment, and the 2 saints by the side, are by Canuti; the S. Bruno, at the altar, is by Cesi. The other large picture, representing the Ascension, is by Bibiena. On the oppo- site side of the nave is the Supper in the House of the Pharisee, and the Mag- dalen at the feet of Christ, by Andrea Sirani. The Baptism of Christ is a large composition by his daughter Elisabetta, painted in her 20th year (a.d. 1658), with her sitting portrait, and her name. The Miraculous Draught of Fishes, Christ driving the money- changers from the Temple, and the 4 Carthusian Saints were the last works of Gessi, The 2 pictures re- presenting Christ entering Jerusalem, and appearing to the Virgin with the host of patriarchs after the re- surrection, are b)^ Lorenzo PasincUi, At the high altar, the Crucifixion, the Christ praying in the Garden, and the Deposition, are by Cesi. In an inner chapel are the Annunciation, by Cesi ; Christ bearing the Cross, a half-length in fresco, by Lodovico Caracci ; S. Bernardino in fresco, by Amico Asper-* tini ; and another Christ with the Cross, by Massari, The Cemetery, which is open to the Public on Sundays, but which can be seen at other times on application to the custode, occupies the corridors of the two spacious cloisters of the convent, in which niches in the walls have been built to receive the dead. The general effect is very fine, and some of the tombs and monuments are re- markable not only for the names they record, but for the character of their design. The large area of each cloister is occupied by the graves of the poorer classes unable to pay for a privileged site under the cloisters. In the large cloister are interred adults, the men on one side, females on the other ; and in the smaller one, children only. Great additions have been made of late years. Amongst others, a kind of Pantheon for the learned, or pro- fessors of the University, their bodies being interred beneath, their busts in a spacious hall above. Collections of engravings of some of these monu- ments have been published, as well as the inscriptions, composed by Professor Schiassi, and much admired for their pure Latinity. Several monuments from churches desecrated during the revolution have been removed here, — some of a very remote period, as may liOAIAGNJ Iiontii (jli-^Bohgna : Climate; Dialect, 553 be seen in one of the entrance halls, chiefly from the desecrated ch. of San Francesco, amongst which that of Pope Alexander V. (1410), and some a much remoter period— some good ones of professors teaching surrounded by their auditors. In the small court beyond this are others extremely beau- tiful as works of art, amongst which may be cited the monuments to Fran- cesco Abbergato, and Sigismondo Mal- vezzi, very fine specimens of cinque- cento style (1517); and that of Ales- sandro Zambecari, with a statue in armour of the most elaborate carving of the end of the 16th century. In and near the chapel, in the outer or great cloister, are the monuments of Vigano and Vestris, of theatrical celebrity. On the right of the principal entrance to the cemetery is a small walled-in space, destined as the last resting- place of our Protestant country-men, and of all creeds not Roman Catholic. Leaving the city in the opposite di- rection, by the Porta Maggiore is the Portico derjli Scalzi, consisting of 167 arches, and 1700 feet in length, leading to the ch. called GU Scalzi, or the Madonna di Strada Maggiore. The ch. has some good paintings, among which may be mentioned a good Holy Family by Pasinelli ; the Sta. Teresa praying, by Canuti ; the Assumption of- the Virgin, by Sabhatini, and other works of the Bolognese school. The epithet of Grassa, given to Bo- logna by the historian Paul Van Merle, of Ley den, in the 15th century, applies as much to the living and culinary deli- cacies of the inhabitants as to the pro- ductions of its fertile territory. The wines of its neighbourhood are very tolerable, and the fruits, particularly the grapes, are much esteemed. The mortadella, everywhere known as the Bologna sausage, still keeps up its re- putation : the cervellato, a kind of plum pudding, is peculiar to Bologna. It is only made in the winter. Lam- bertini, a collateral relative of Bene- dict XIV., in the Via Maggiore, is one of the best manufacturers of these dainties. Mr. Beckford has designated Bo- N, Itali/~-lSe9. logna as " a city of puppy-dogs and sausages." The dogs of Bologna, so celebrated in the middle ages, and alluded to in the epitaph on King Enzius in the ch. of S. Domenico, Avere worthy of more respect than is implied in this flippant remark; they have unfortunately disappeared, and a trace of their pure breed can scarcely now be discovered. In a University town, so celebrated for its medical professors, the invalid can never be at a loss for good advice ; the ordinary fee, either for physicians or surgeons, is 5 francs, and for consul- tations 10. The climate is considered healthy, but in winter Bologna is reputed to be cold and in summer the hottest city in Italy. In other respects, amply pro- vided with the necessaries and luxuries of life, with an intellectual society, to say nothing of its works of art, Bo- logna is peculiarly calculated to be an agreeable and economical residence. In one respect Bologna labours under dis- advantages from the inadequate sup- ply of water in the houses, which renders the construction of certain conveniences difficult. The Bolognese dialect, of all the forms of Italian which the traveller will meet with, is most puzzling. It was aptly described by the learned gram- marian of the 16th centy., Aulus Gellius Parrhasius, as the raucida Bononensium loquacitas. Forsyth says, " with all the learning in its bosom, Bologna has suf- fered its dialect, that dialect which Dante admired as the purest of Italy, to degenerate into a coarse, thick, trun- cated jargon, full of apocope, and unin- telligible to strangers."' In regard to the character of the Bolognese, we may refer to the well- known description by Tassoni : " 11 Bolognese e un popol del demonio Che non si puo frenar con alcun freno." This character, at first sight so for- midable, would seem to refer to the independent spirit, and to the love of political freedom imbibed from their ancient republican institutions. It has been a fashion with many passing tourists of our own time to depreciate 2 B o54 Itoute 61. —bologna: Character of tnliaUtants. Sefet. VII; the Bolognese ; but the calumny, if there ever were any foundation for it, applies no longer; and in education, in character, and in the arts of civi- lisation, Bologna stands prominently forward amongst European cities, as its inhabitants do amongst the bravest, most patriotic and public-spirited of united Italy. Travellers who are desirous of pro- ceeding from Bologna to Rome, without passing through Florence, must pro- ceed by rail to Pistoia, whence trains start, upon the arrival of those from Bologna, for Pisa and Leghorn ; or can follow the rly. along the Adriatic to Ancona, and from the latter, traversing the Apennines to Foligno, and thence to the capital (Ptte. 107). Plan for visiting, in topographical order , everything most worthy of notice at Bo' logna in 3 days, \st day. — Piazza and Fontana di Net- tUno ; Palazzo Pubblico ; Ch. of San PeTronio ; Pah del Podesta ; Portico del Pavaglione ; ArChiginnasio and Bihlio- teca ; Ch. ofS, Maria della Vita ; Chs. of San Domenico, of Santa Lucia ; Pal. Ranuzzi; Chs. of San Giovanni in Monte, of San Stefano ; Pah de* Bianchi; Pal, Pepoli; Ch. of S, Maria de* Servi ; Pah Sampieri ; Ch. of San Bartolommeo in RavegnaNa ; Torre degl' Asinelli ; Chs. of San Vitale and I Mendicanti', Pah Fantuzzi; Via di San Donato ; Pal. Malvezzi, Mai- vasia, &c. ; Ch. of S. GiACOMO Mag- giore ; Oratory of Santa Cecilia ; Uni- versity ; Great Theatre, 2nd day. — Cathedral ; Ch. of iI/«- donna di Galliera ; Pal. Fava ; Chs. of San Giorgio and San Martino ; Pah Al~ drovandi ; Ch. of S. Bartolommeo in Beno ; House of Galvani ; Arena ; Ch. of San Benedetto; Montagnola; Pal. Bentivoglio ; Accademia delle Belle Arti and Collections ; Pinacoteca ; Botanic Garden ; Collections and Library at the University ; Drive in the after- noon to the Certosa and Campo Santo, by the Porta Sant' Jsaia, re- turning by that of Sta. Felice. Chs. of San Francesco and S. Salvatore ; Pal. Marescalchi, Zambeccari, and Bevilacqua Vincenzi; Chs. of S. Paolo, La Santa^ and San Procolo ; Porta San Mamolo ; Chs. of V Annunziata and Misericordia ; S. MiCHELE IN Bosco; Villa Aldini: Porta di Saragozza, and excursion to the Ch. of the Madonna di S. Luca, returning by the Via di Saragozza, Pah Albergati, and Collegia di Spagna, ROUTE 62. BOLOGNA TO FLORENCE, BY PIETRA- MALA AND THE PASS OF LA FUTA. Bologna to Pianoro . . Pianoro to Lojano . . . Lojano to Filigare . . . Filigare to Covigliajo . Covigliajo to Monte Carelli Monte Carelli to Cafaggiolo Cafaggiolo to Fontebuona Fontebuona to Florence . n The road from Bologna to Florence crosses the central chain of the Apen- nines. It is in general in good repair, but in many places the ascents are so rapid that, in addition to -the ordinary extra horses, oxen are required. The time occupied in performing the journey is from 18 to 20 hours by vetturino. There are no longer post horse stations on it. This route is now scarcely used by travellers, since the rly. has been opened to Pistoja. The scenery of this part of the Apennines is often picturesque. RoMAiJN'A. iloute 62. — Bologna to Plorence, hy Pietramatd. 555 but they want the grandeur and bokl- ness of the Alps. Leaving l^ologna, the road soon enters the valley of the Savena, which it crosses at S. Rufillo, rising very gradually along the rt. bank of the river, through a fertile district, and passing by the villages of Kastigniano and Musiano to 1.2 Pianoro, situated close to the Savena, which the road quits here, and from whence the ascent of the Apennines may be said to commence. From here to Lojano additional horses are required, with oxen for the very steep ascents. Between this and the next station the road offers several fine points of view over the plains of Bologna and the valley of the Po. 1 J Lojano, From this elevated spot the view is very striking and extensive ; the eye ranges along the chain of dis- tant Alps, embracing the vast plain ot the Po to the Adriatic, Mantua, Verona, Padua, Sologna. The papal frontier, before the annexation of the Emilian Provinces to the kingdom of Italy, was at La Ca. 1 Filiqare. 3 m. further on is Pietra- mala. This upper portion of the Pass is much exposed to storms, and is bitterly cold in winter. About 1^ m. E. of Pietramala is a singular phenomenon, called *'i Fuochi," which deserves a visit. It occurs at the base of the Monte di Fo, in a very limited space, and con- sists of emanations of inflammable gas, which being ignited present at first something of a volcanic appearance. The flames rise about a foot from the ground, and to be seen to advantage must be visited by night: they burn most brightly and rise to a greater ele- vation in rainy or stormy weather, owing probably to the diminished atmospheric pressure. Round the orifices from which the gas issues, a carbonaceous deposit like soot is formed, as occurs in the ordinary gas-burners of our houses. Volta, who was the first to investigate these phenomena, very properly attributed these flames to emanations of carburetted hydrogen (coal-gas) from the subjacent arena- ceous rock, which here, as elsewhere, contains vegetable remains, from the de- composition of which this gas is probably derived. Similar phenomena are met with in other parts of the Apennines, and from the same causes — at Barigazzo, La Porretta, &c. (see Rte. 63). The flames vary in colour, from blue to yellow, according to the light in which, and the time of the day when they are seen, and emit an odour of burning spirits of wine. The Acqua Buja, 1 m. to the W. of Pietramala, is a similar phenomenon, but here the in- flammable gas, passing through water, only becomes ignited on the approach of a light to the bubbles as they reach the surface. From Pietramala a gradual ascent of 3 m., at the base of the Peaks of Monte Beni and Sasso di Castro, leads to Covigliajo. The geologist will find much to interest him in this part of the route — the above-named mountains, which attain respectively elevations of 4080 and 4135 English feet above the sea, being formed of serpentine, which has broken through the subjacent stra- tified rocks of the cretaceous formation. 1 Covigliajo^ at the foot of Monte Beni, a solitary inn, which had in former days a bad reputation, but which is now a very comfortable inn, much more so indeed than the traveller has a right to expect in such a situa- tion ; from its great elevation the cli- mate is very cold, and warm clothing is at all seasons advisable on this journey. A further ascent of 4 m. brings us to the summit of the Pass of la Futa, the highest point of the road between Bologna and Florence, 2987 feet above the sea. From this pass, which in the winter season is at times impassable from accumulations of snow, a rapid but well-managed descent leads to 1 Monte Carelli, The road noW; runs on the summit of a spur of the Apennines, before descending into the valley of the Sieve, which is so celebrated in the history of the middle ages and in Italian poetry, 2 B 2 S56 Route 62.-^Bologna to Florence, Sect. VII. under the general name of Val di Mu- gello. Here a road on the rt. leads to Barberinb, and thence to Prato and Pistoja. On approaching the valley of the Sieve, about 3 m. from Cafag- giolo is Le Maschere. ** It overlooks the brow of a mountain which, although covered with trees, is almost perpen- dicular ; while on the plain far below lies the beautiful vale of Arno, bounded by a circle of magnificent hills, sometimes rising in acclivities, sometimes in polished knolls or bold promontories, cultivated to the very summit with the vine and olive, interspersed with fruit and forest trees, and thickly studded with villas, convents, and churches, presenting an aspect of extraordinary animation and beauty. Turning from the contemplation of this rich, lively, and cultivated landscape, to the bold country spread abroad among the Apennines behind the Maschere, you behold a prospect finely contrasting nature in all its most polished splendour with the wild and majestic grandeur of mountain scenery." — John Bell, 1 CaffaggioIOf on the rt. bank of the Sieve. A short distance beyond it the old road from Bologna to Florence through Firenzuola and Scar- peria falls into this route. About midway between this and the next station we pass the village of Va- glia, on the Carza torrent, whose left bank the road follows to Fontebuona. On an eminence on the 1., surrounded by cypress plantations, is seen the Servite convent of Monte Senario, which forms so remarkable an object in the landscape N. of Florence. 1 Fontebuona. The ascent on leaving is very steep. A short distance beyond Fontebuona on the 1. is Pratolino, once a favourite seat of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany, situated on the southern slopes of a hill, embosomed in fine trees. The beautiful villa, designed by Buontalenti, for Francesco de' Me- dici, son of Cosimo I., to receive Bianca Capello, has long been demo- lished. The money lavished upon its decorations, its giuochi d'acqua, &c., amounted to no less a sum than 782,000 crowns, an expenditure upon which the Grand Duke Ferdinand II, gave an expressive commentary when he said that the money there wasted would have built a hundred hospitals. Besides the grottoes, fountains, and labyrinths of Pratolino, there is a colossal monster, called the Statue of the Apennines, 60 feet in height. The artist's name is unknown. The beauties of Pratolino and of Bianca are fre- quently celebrated by Tasso : — " Dianzi all' ombra di fama occulta e bruna, Quasi giacesti, Pratolino, ascoso ; Or la tua donna tanto onor t' aggiunge, Che piega alia seconda alia for tuna Gli antichi gioghi 1' Apennin nevoso ; Ed Atlante, ed Olimpo, ancor si lungo, N^ coniin la tua gloria asconde e serra ; Ma del tuo picciol iiome empi la terra." Jiiriie, 360. The rapid descent hence to Flo- rence, along an excellent road, is one of the most interesting drives in Europe. Every eminence is studded with villas ; the country, rich in vine- yards and olive-groves, seems literally '* a land of oil and wine ;" cultivation appears in its highest perfection; the Etruscan fortress of Fiesole, consecrated by the genius of Milton, with its Arx now occupied by the Franciscan Con- vent, rises magnificently over the opposite bank of the Mugnone ; and Florence, with its domes, campaniles, and battlemented towers, bursts upon the view. This approach recalls the remark of Ariosto, that if all the villas which are scattered as if the soil produced them over the hills of the Val d'Arno were collected within one wall, two Romes could not vie with Florence. " A veder pien dl tante ville i colli, Per die' I terren vele germogli, come Verinene germogliar suole, e rainpoUi. Se dentro un mur, sotto un medesmo nome Fosser raccolti i tuoi palazzi sparsi, Non ti sarian da pareggiar due Rome." Eime, cap. xvi. Florence is entered by the Porta di San Gallo. EoMAGNA. Route 63. — Bologna to Florence^ by La Porretta, bhl ROUTE 63. BOLOGNA TO FLORENCE, BY LX POR- RETTA. — RAIL. KIL. Bologna to Borgo Panigale ... 7 Casaleccbio 10 IlSasso 19 Marzobotto 27 Vergato 39 Riola 47 La Porretta 59 Pracchia 73 Piteccio 87 Pistoia 98 Prato 114 Florence 132 132 kil. = 82 m. This rly. forms the most direct route between Bologna and Florence ; and by it travellers can reach the Tuscan capital in 4.7 to of hours. Leaving Bologna, the rly. soon after- wards crosses the Reno, and then, assum- ing a more southerly direction, follows parallel to its 1. bank, passing by 7 kil. Borgo di Panigale Stat., on the plain. 3 Casalecchio Stat. [The village and bridge of Casalecchio are at some dis- tance on the 1. Casalecchio was the scene of the battle in which Giovanni Bentivoglio was defeated by the army of Gian Galeazzo, on June 26, 1402. The allied army of Florence and Bologna, under Bentivoglio and Bernardo de Serres, had encamped at Casalecchio, contrary to the judgment of the latter general, who was anxious to have re- tired within the walls of the city. While they were waiting for reinforce- ments from Florence, the Milanese, under Alberigo da Barbiano, gave them battle, The Bologi^ese troops, weary of the tyranny of Bentivoglio, refused to fight ; Bernardo de Serres was taken prisoner; the inhabitants, encouraged by the faithless promises made by Gian Galeazzo that he would restore their re^ public, opened the gates to the Milanese, and 2 days afterwards Bentivoglio was murdered by order of Barbiano. In 1511 Casalecchio was the scene of the victory gained by the Sieur de Chau- mont, general of Louis XIL, over the troops of Julius II., commanded by F. M. della Rovere, Duke of Urbino. It was fought on the 21st of May, and was called the " day of the ass-drivers," because the French knights returned driving asses laden with their booty.] From Casalecchio the rly. may be said to enter the valley of the Reno, and runs along the base of the low hills that border it on the W. to 10 kil. Sasso Stat. Sasso, a village situated on a height above the river. During the trajet between Casalecchio and Sasso, the geologist will have an op- portunity of observing some good super- positions of the molassG or sands of the Pliocene formation on the blue sub-Ap- penine marls. The rly. cuts through these sands close to the river in the nar- row defile of II Sasso, at the base of a deep clifP overhanging the torrent. Im- mediately beyond the valley widens ; a broad torrent, the Setta, here nearly equal in size to the Reno, joins the latter from the S. Following the 1. bank of the Reno, the road crosses several ra- vines, which, being excavated in the tertiary marls, offer some disagreeable passes in the rainy season ; there are some deep cuttings and a short tunnel before reaching 7 kil. Marzobotto Stat., near which on rt. is the hamlet, and a series of very neat farm-buildings, in the midst of meadow-lands; above which is a large villa belonging to the Aria family, where are preserved several Etruscan objects of antiquity discovered in an ancient necropolis at Misano, between the villa and the river, an interesting description of which has been published by Count Gozzodine. There are four tunnels, and some remarkably goo^ 658 Route 63>-^£ologna to Florence : La Porretta, Sect. VII. specimens of bridges over the lateral torrents, and embankments along the rt. bank of the Reno, before reaching 12 kil. Vergato Stat. Vergato, a vil- lage of 700 Inhab. near the Reno ; on leaving it, a rapid, and in the winter season a dangerous, torrent, the Verga- tello, is crossed. The appearance of the country changes ; the valley of the Reno, hitherto enclosed between pre- cipitous mountains, now widens; the hills on either side becoming rounded and less precipitous — a circumstance arising from the change in the geologi- cal nature of the soil, from the tertiary marls and sandstones to the calcareous rocks of the cretaceous or eocenic period. 5 m. beyond Vergato is Iiiola Stat., at the end of a tunnel 1580 yards long, opposite which, and on the other side of the Reno, rise the rugged peaks of Monte Ovolo and Monte Vigese ; at the foot of the latter the village of Vigo was overwhelmed, in 1851, by a terrific landslip. Continuing along the 1. bank of the river, the recently restored castle of Savignano is a picturesque object, in the angle formed by the junction of the Reno and Limentra on the 1. ; from there, crossing the Reno and pene- trating a spur of hills by the great tunnel of Casale 2858 yds. or Ifg m. long, the traveller discovers another reach of the Reno, at the head of which the village of Porretta is seen in the dis- tance. This part of the valley forms a picturesque amphitheatre surrounded by verdant hills, on the summit of which are seen, on the rt., ruins of some mediaeval towers. 2 m. before reaching Porretta the Sella torrent is crossed on a new and handsome bridge, one of the finest works of art upon the whole line of this carriage-road. From Vergato to la Porretta the rly. runs constantly close to the river, which has necessitated an almost continuous line of embankments. It crosses the Reno before arriving at the station, from which a handsome bridge leads to 12 kil. La Porretta, a village of 1010 Inhab., celebrated for its mineral waters and bathSj which are much frequented in the summer months. There are seve- ral inns and lodging-houses ; that which appears to be most convenient for tra- vellers is the Locanda Nova d' Italia, kept by Gennasi ; there is a second during the bathing season, il Palaz- zino. The bathing season is during the months of June, July, and August. The waters of La Porretta have long been celebrated for their medicinal qua- lities, and are much resorted to from June to September ; they issue from the sandstone-rock of the cretaceous period, and reach the surface at temperatures varying, according to the springs, from 89° to 101° Fahr. ; they contain a vari- - able portion of sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid gases, and in some localities so large a quantity of carbu- retted hydrogen as to make its collec- tion profitable for lighting purposes. Strange to say, in this remote 'district of the Apennines, this application of natural gas was first made by an inge- nious shoemaker, named Spiga ; since which a part of the village is lighted by a lamp supplied by it. Besides these gaseous contents, the waters of La Porretta contain muriate, bromate, and carbonate of soda, and a peculiar pseudo-organic matter ; they are used both in the form of baths and in- ternally, and are considered to be very efficacious in chronic glandular ob- structions, in rheumatism, paralysis, and nervous affections generall5\ During the heats of summer, La Por- retta, from its elevation above the sea (1130 English feet), is cool ; the situa- tion is considered healthy; fevers, which exist lower down the valley of the Reno, are unknown here. The Mo7ite Cardo, which rises be- hind the village, offers several emana- tions of carburetted hydrogen from the fissures in the sandstone, which ignite on the approach of a light. They are entirely similar to those of Pietramala and Barigazzo. (See Rte. 62.) Leaving La Porretta, the railway passes through a short tunnel. The mineral spring, called La Porretta Vecchia, is situated in this defile, and is principally resorted to by drinkers, the temperature being 89°. Having passed this, the valley expands ; woods KOMAGNA. Route G3. — La Porretta to Ihrence, 659 of oaks clothe the sides of the hills, the line ascending more rapidly than it has hitherto done, and Le Cap time, formerly the Papal frontier station, is soon reached. The Reno, which is crossed by a bridge, the Ponte della Venturina, formed here the boundary between Tuscany and the States of the Church. Beyond the Ponte della Venturina the rly. enters the upper valley of the Reno, a narrow gorge of 10 m., during which it penetrates through 13 short tunnels, crossing several times the torrent. The longest of these is La Gal- leria del B alone. At 8 J m. from La Porretta we emerge into a kind of amphitheatre of hills, in which, 14 kil., Pracchia Stat, is situated ; the highest point of the line is 2025 Eng- lish feet above the level of the sea — during the journey from Bologna having penetrated through 23 tunnels of a total length exceeding 5 miles, and crossed the Reno 19 times. On leaving Pracchia^ where there is a fair buffet, commences the great tunnel through the central ridge of the Apennines : it is 2980 yds., or nearly If m., in length, debouching at its S. extremity upon a viaduct on the E. declivity of the valley of the Ombrone, and from which there is a descent of 1820 ft. to the plain at Pis- toia. Along this declivity the rly. is carried by 3 long curves, penetrates through 1 8 tunnels, and crosses several viaducts, the longest of the tunnels be- ing that of U kil. Piteccio Stat. (1162 yds.). Near here is one of the finest works of engineering on the line — the via- duct of Piteccio, of 18 arches in 3 ranges. 2 m. before reaching Pistoia, after crossing the fine viaduct of Va- joni and its tunnel, the rly. passes between 2 hills ; upon that on the rt. is a lofty modern tower, on the sup- posed site of the defeat of Catiline (B.C. 60) ; we here enter the plain of the Ombrone^ and then skirt the mediaeval walls of the city before reaching the iWil Pistoia Stat. {Inn: Hotel de Londres, near the stat. and the gate of the town). See Handbook of Central Italy, Rte. 77. [The following description of the carriage-road from La Porretta to Pistoia may be useful to persons tra* veiling by vetturino. It formed, until the opening of the railway, the most frequented route between Bologna and Florence. From the Ponte della Ven» turina the road strikes off to the 1., ascending the valley of la Limentra, The ascent of the Apennines may be said to commence from here, although, for the first 2 m., it is very gradual along the Limentra ; the road enters a deep, narrow ravine, and for the next 5 m. ascends continually, cross- ing the river several times, but so excellently constructed is it, and in such good repair, that it is easily sur- mounted. About 7 m. from La Porretta the torrent divides into 2 branches ; at the point of junction is seen, be- low the road, Zo Spedaleto, formerly an hospice for travellers crossing this part of the Apennines. An extremely well-managed ascent of about 2 m, leads from this point to the Collina Pass, a low saddleback over the central chain of the Apennines. On the summit of the pass is a large inn. The most ele- vated point of the Via Leopolda, as this part of the road is called, at the Collina Pass, is 3350 English feet above the sea. The view from the Collina Pass, or, better still, from a point a few hundred yards lower down, is perhaps as fine as from any place in the Apennines, and will well repay a short delay on the part of the traveller. Looking towards the S. and Pistoja, you have on the rt. the highest peaks of the Modenese and Lucca mountains, generally covered with snow ; the serrated pinnacles about the Cisa and Abetone passes (see Rtes. 43 and 51) ; the mountains of La Pania ; — to the S.W. the Lakes of Fucecchio and Bientina and the Pisan group of hills, with the upper valley of the Ombrone in the fore, the valley of the Arno beyond, and the distant hills S. of the Arno in the background; — the whole valley of 560 Route 63. — La Porretta to Florence, Sect. VTT. the Ombrone, with Pistoja in the centre, and the chain of hills which separate it from the Val d'Arno Inferiore and the plains of Pisa on one side ; — whilst the Val d'Arno, extending to Florence, and the Apennines of Valombrosa, close the view to the E. *'I seldom have witnessed a grander panorama of Italian scenery than from the Collina Pass on a fine clear November's evening.'' About 1 m. to the rt. of the pass of La Collina is seen the still lower pass of Pracchia, one of the lowest in the central chain of the Apennines, under which the rly. penetrates by a long tunnel. A rapid and well-managed descent of 6 m., by a series of zigzags, leads into the plain of the Ombrone, passing rapidly through every zone of Italian vegetation, from pasturage and pines, through woods of oaks to chesnut- trees, mingled with Spanish broom, and then through vineyards to olive- groves, which are here first met with by the traveller arriving from Northern Italy. From the foot of the descent, above which is seen a picturesque modern tower, supposed to mark the site of Catiline's defeat, a level road of 2 m., through neat farm-houses and villas, leads to the gates of Pistoja; ^ m. before reaching which, are passed on the 1. the handsome grounds of the Villa Puccini.] Railwa}^ trains from Pistoja to Flo- rence start 4 times a day, performing the journey in 1^ hour. The stations are, reckoning the distances from Pis- toja — Pistoja to San Piero ... 8 kil. Prato ] 6 Calenzano 25 Sesto 21 Castello 26 Eiffredi 31 Florence 34 For a description of this part of the route see Handbook for Central Italy, Rte. 77. 1 Florence ; described in Handbook for Central Italy (Rte. 80) .—- Hotels : H. de VArno, on the Lung' Arno, in an excellent situation, good in every respect, Baldi's Hotel de Vltalie on the Lung' Arno, good but expensive. Hotel de VEurope, clean, comfortable, quiet and moderate as to charges, with a good table-d'hote — the landlord speaks English; Hotel du Nord; both these hotels are in the Piazza di Santa Tri- nita, the most central situation in the city, not far from the rly. stat., and close to reading-room, club, and Lungo Amos, &c., cool in the spring and sum- mer. Hotel de la Grande Bretagne, on the quay. Hotel de la Ville, in the Piazza Manin, and on the western pro- longation of the Lungo Arno, very good. Hotel de New York, in the same quarter. H. it Pension de Milan, in Via dei Cerretani, nearest to the rly. stat., very well spoken of. H, de Borne, in the Piazza Santa Maria Novella, charges more moderate. H, de la Porta Bossa, H. de la Pension Suisse, dello Scudo di Francia, and della Luna, the last four second-rate, frequented by commercial travellers and Italian families. The hotels on the Lung' Arno are to be preferred during the winter months on account of the sun ; they have, however, few small apart- ments or bachelors' rooms looking south, and are inconvenient in the summer from the heat, the exhalations from the river and the sewers which empty themselves into it, and from the greater abundance of mosquitoes, at which season the Europe, Milan, and Nord are perhaps to be pre- ferred. Most of the hotels have good tables-d'hote, and leave little to be de- sired as regards cleanliness and general comfort. KOMAGNA. Eoute 64. — Faenza to Florence. 561 ROUTE 64. FAENZA TO FLORENCE, BY MAREADI AND BORGO SAN LORENZO. — 69 m. This road, which was opened in 1844, establishes a convenient communica- tion between Florence and Ravenna. It passes through a picturesque country. A public conveyance 3 times a week in 15 hrs. Leaving Faenza, it soon reaches the foot of the first sub-Apenuine hills at San Prospero, from whence it follows the 1. bank of the Lam one by San Ruf- filo to Brisighella, a picturesque village overlooking the plain of the Lamone, to 12 m. Fognano, an inconsiderable village on the 1. bank of the river, with a wretched inn. The views of the Apen- nines, in their lower elevations, covered with woods of chesnut-trees, are very pleasing. The Lamone, here nearly dry during the summer months, is an impetuous and dangerous torrent in the rainy season. Following its 1. bank, the road crosses it at S. Eufemia ; and 7 m. still farther we arrive at 18 m. Marradi. Marradi is one of those strange Italian villages often met with out of the high roads. It contains 2200 Inhab. The Locanda del Lamone is indifferent. The valley here becomes very narrow ; the precipices on each side merely allowing room for the passage of the river and the road. 1 m. beyond Marradi, at a hamlet called La Biforcaj the Lamone receives the Compigno torrent on the 1. ; the road continues along the Lamone for 5 or G m., until it reaches Crespino, formerly the seat of a Vallom- brosian monastery. Not far from it is the picturesque cascade of Valbura. From Casaglia commences the ascent of the central chain, which is crossed at Casa di Alpe, or CoUa di Casaglia^ 2980 English feet above the level of the sea. On ascending from Marradi the chesnut woods gradually disappear ; the mountains become nearly bare. It requires 3^ hours to reach the highest part of the pass, as it does 2 more to descend to Borgo San Lorenzo. From the pass of Casaglia the road descends rapidly along the Razotta torrent to Pu- liciano on the Elsa, and from thence to 20 m. Borgo San Lorenzo (^Lnns: Lo- canda della Rivola, clean and civil ; Lo- canda del Sole). Borgo San Lorenzo, situated near the 1. bank of the river, is the principal town in the upper part of the valley of the Sieve, generally called the Mugello. It is in a fertile plain, and contains a population of 3500 souls. Its ch., dedicated to San Lorenzo, is an edifice of the 13th century, as appears from an inscription bearing the date of 1263 ; the campanile is nearly a century later. 2 roads lead from Borgo San Lorenzo to Florence : the first and most direct, 1 5 m. up the valley of the Fis- tona to near its source, and from thence descending along the Mugnone to the gates of the city. 5 m. from Borgo San Lorenzo the Monte Senario is passed 3 m. on the rt. Before reaching Florence the Mugnone cuts through a deep glen, having on the 1. the hill on which the Etruscan arx of the ancient Fesula; stood, and the Monte Rinaldi, celebrated amongst the Tuscan architects for its quarries of building- stone, on the rt. Emerging from this ravine, we cross the Ponte della Badia, so called from the neighbouring con- vent, founded by Cosimo de Medicis, from which the road is bordered by lines of farm-houses and villas to the Porta di San Gallo, before reaching which it is joined by the high road from Bologna by Covigliajo. (Rte. 62.) The second route, from Borgo San Lorenzo, although longer by 3 m., is to be preferred, being less hilly and more suited for carriages, following the 1. bank of the Sieve to San Piero^ a large village in one of the most fertile districts of the Mugello^ near the juction of the Co.rza and Sieve, and, a mile farther, joining the high road from Bologna to Florence (Rte. 62), not far from Caffaggiolo. 2 B 3 562 Route 65, — Florence to Forlu Sect. VII, ROUTE 65. FIiORENCE TO FORLI, BY DICOMANO AND THE PASS OF S. BENEDETTO. MILES. 12i 10 16 12 16 Florence to Pontassieve by Railway Pontassieve to Dicomano .... Dicomano to S. Benedetto . , . S, Benedetto to Rocca S. Casciano . Rocca San Casciano to Forl\ . . , 66j miles. This road, opened for the purpose of establishing a direct communication across the Apennines between Florence and the Romagna, is in good repair, and constructed on the best principles of modern engineering. As there are no post stations, the only means of travelling over this route Tvill be by vetturino, which will require 2 days, in which case San Benedetto will be the best halting- place for the first night. Leaving Florence, we proceed along the rt. bank of the Arno as far as Pontassieve, on the road to Arezzo, where the Forli road strikes oif to the N.E., and ascends the valley of the Sieve as far as Dicomano. The scenery is very fine in many parts, especially for the first 10 m., when it is repeatedly crossed by the line of rly. to Pon- tassieve; but it becomes wild as we approach the lofty chain of Apennines over which the road is carried. 10 m. Dicomano, (Inns : Locanda Pas- serine, and the Leone d'Oro.) It is an old town, prettily situated at the junc- tion of the Sieve and Dicomano torrents, but has little beyond its position to attract the attention of a passing tra- veller. On leaving it the road proceeds up the valley and along the river of San Godenzo to near its source, where extra horses are put on, in order to master the ascent, which is extremely steep. The village of San Godenzo, through which the road passes, is situated at the southern base of the central chain, among wooded scenery. Here the ascent of the Apennines, pro- perly speaking, commences, but the road is admirably constructed. The descent is gradual and well managed ; the Osteria Nuova, 2 m. below the pass, is soon reached, and the road shortly attains the banks of the Mon<» tone, which it follows to FoiTi. 16 m. San Benedetto. This place is about half-way between Florence and Forli ; it has a very fair inn, the Leone d'Oro, the best on the road, and it would be the most eligible resting- place for travellers in a private carriage. Between this village and Rocca San Casciano the road passes through Por- tico, an old fortified town, with a ruined castle, which once commanded the road from the Romagna. There are some emanations of inflammable gas, similar to those at Pietramala, near the hamlet of Qucrciolano on the 1. of the road. 12 m. Rocca San Casciano {Inn: the Locando del Giglio, tolerable), a vil- lage of 1600 Inhab., on the rt. bank of the Montone. It is the most important town of the Tuscan Romagna; but contains little to detain the traveller. A road has of late years been opened from it across the pass of Le Forche to Galeata and Santa Sofia, in the upper valley of the Ronco. Leaving San Casciano, the road continues along the Montone, between Monte Grosso on the rt. and Monte Tor eel la on the 1. Be- fore arriving at Dovadola, a good road across the pass of Monte Trebbio, of 10 m. on the 1.. leads to Modigli- and, a very ancient town of 3000 Inhab., probably the Castrum Muiilum of Livy. EoMAGNA. Jttes. 66^ 67,--^ForU and Faenza to Ravenna. 503 Dovadola has an old castle in ruins. (Near here commence the Miocene deposits, which are seen forming pre- cipices of almost horizontal strata be- hind the village: they rest on the Eocene limestones and marls which form the centre of the chain, and are succeeded by the Pliocene or Subapen- nine marls and sands which extend to the valley of the Po.) Between Dova- dola and Terra del Sole is the village of Castro Caro — the ancient Salsuhium — celebrated for its mineral waters, which issue from the Miocene beds, and contain a considerable propor- tion of iodine, and have proved very efficacious in glandular and scrofulous affections. Castro Caro derives its name from its picturesque mediaival castle, situated on a mass of marine breccia or Panchina^ which rises precipitately above the town. 5 m. beyond this is Term del Sole, formerly the frontier station of Tuscany, a walled town on the 1. bank of the Montone. IJ m. farther is Rovere. From this a plea- sant drive of about 2 m. across the plain — during which Bertinoro, perched on one of the last spurs of the Apen- nines, is seen picturesquely on the sum- mit of its hill, at some distance on the rt. — brings us to the bridge over the Montone and 16 m. ForVi (described in Rte, 72). ROUTE 66. FORLl TO RAVENNA. 20 m. As there is no regular public con- veyance on this route, persons proceed- ing to Ravenna must hire a vehicle for the journey. Paolo Traversaro, who may be heard of at the diligence office, has a good carriage, and can be recom- mended ; the charge to Ravenna will be about 10 francs, and the time occupied in the journey 3 hours. An excellent road of about 20 m,. parallel to the 1. bank of the Ronco, which from here to the sea is confined in its channel by high banks. Like the following route, this presents a succession of farm-houses thickly scat- tered over a country which is sur- passed by none in Italy for fertility. Soon after leaving Forli, a road to Cervia and Rimini branches off on the rt. : before reaching Ravenna, the canal formed by the united waters of the Montone and Ronco is passed, and the city is entered by the Porta Sisi. 20 m. Ravenna (Rte. 69a). ROUTE 67. faenza to RAVENNA. A cross-road of 22 m. An agreeable drive of about 3 hours over a level road, through a country of extraordinary fertility. 4 m. after leaving Faenza the road crosses the Lamone at the Ponte della Castellina. Between Ilussi and Godo, which lie on the rt., the present route falls into the high road from Bologna to Ravenna through Lugo and Medecina. 2^ Ravenna (Rte. 69a). 564 Route 68. — Bologna to Ravenna, Sect. VII. ROUTE 68. ; BOLOGNA TO EAVENNA, BY IMOLA AND LUGO. MILES. Bologna to S. Niccolb ) -p^,-, oo S. Niccolb to Imola 3 Imola to Lugo \ -p^^ , Lugo to Ravenna ] 41 m. 25 The first portion, between Bologna and Imola, is described in Rte. 72, where an account of Imola will be found. The route from Imola to Ravenna is somewhat longer than that from Faen- za; but the road is excellent, and the country through which it passes is in- teresting on account of its high state of cultivation. Leaving Imola, the road proceeds along the 1. bank of the Santerno as far as Mordano, After crossing the San- terno it turns towards Lugo. 3 m. N.W. from this is the walled town of Massa Lomharda^ supposed to have derived its name from the Mantuan and Brescian emigrants who fled from the persecutions of Frederick Barbarossa, and settled here in 1232. There is no doubt that the establish- ment of this colony contributed to the prosperity of the district ; and it is re- corded that Francesco d'Este, one of the generals of the Emp. Charles V., on his deathbed at Ferrara in 1573, directed that the Lombards of Massa should carry his body from Ferrara to this town, where, in accordance with his wishes, it was buried. The present population is about 5000. On the 1. bank of the Santerno, a branch road from Ferrara through the marshes of Argenta falls into this route. Lugo {Inn: Albergo di San Marco, tolerable), situated in the plain, nearly midway between the Santerno and the Senio rivers, supposed to occupy the site of Lucus DiancB^ whose temple was in the neighbourhood. Lugo, now an important provincial town of 8500 souls, was raised to municipal rank by Julius II., and was confirmed in its privileges by Pius VII. It contains nothing to detain the traveller, unless he happen to visit it at the period of its fair, which commences September 1st, and lasts till the 19th of the month. This fair is said to date from the time of Marcus iEmilius, a proconsul of Ravenna. In the vicinity of Lugo are 2 small towns^ each of which is in- teresting as the birthplace of person- ages whose names occupy a distin- guished place in Italian history. The first of these, Cotignola^ 3 m. to the S.E. of Lugo, on the banks of the Senio, was the birthplace of Atten- dolo ^ Sforza, the founder of that il- lustrious house which subsequently played so important a part in the history of Italy. It was here that he threw his pickaxe into the branches of an oak, in order that it might decide by its fall, or by remaining fixed, whether he should remain a tiller of the ground, or join a com- pany of condottieri. The other town, Fusignano, about 4 m. N., also on the 1. bank of the Senio, is memorable as the birthplace of Vincenzo Monti the poet, and of Angelo Corelli the musical com- poser. The castle of Cunioj celebrated as one of the strongholds of Romagna in the middle ages, was in the neigh- bourhood of Cotignola : its ruins still exist. A short distance from Lugo the road crosses the Senio, and passes through Bagnacavallo, a town of 4000 souls, the Roman Tiberiacum^ in honour of Tiberius. Several Roman inscriptions, and other antiquities of the time of the Empire, discovered there in 1605, prove its existence at that period as a Roman city. The present town is walled, and was formerly famous for its strong castle. It has a cathedral dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel, and a circus for the game of pallone, but it contains little to interest the stranger. 2 m. beyond Bagnacavallo the road crosses the Lamone, and proceeds across the plain to Ravenna. Near Godo that from Faenza falls into this route. THI LIBRARY \ 566 Route ^^d,-— Bologna to Ravenna, Sect. VII. KoMAGNA. Koutes 69 69a. — Bologna to Ravenna. 567 ROUTE 69. BOLOGNA TO RAVENNA, BY MEDICINA AND LUGO. About 50 m. This is the most direct route as re- gards actual distance, but now seldom followed, since the opening of the rly. from Castel Bolognese to Ravenna. The distance from Bologna to Medi- cina is about 18 English m. ; the road passing through one of the richest agricultural districts of La Romagna, crossing successively the Idice, Qua- dernt, and Gajana streams, flowing towards the Po; about 10 m. beyond Medecina the road leaves, on the 1., Massa Lonibarda, and, after crossing the river Santerno, joins the road from Imola to Ravenna at Lugo (see Rte. 68). ROUTE 69 a. BOLOGNA TO RAVENNA, BY RAIL. KIL. Bologna to Castel Bolognese— Poiil 42 Castel Bolognese to Solarolo 6 Lugo 14 Bagnacavallo 19 Russi * . 25 Godo 29 Ravenna . . ... 42 84kil. = 52m. This is now the most convenient Route, being performed in 2| hrs. by the rly. as far as Castel Bolognese, about 26 miles (see Rte. 72) ; and from there by this branch line. Persons pressed for time will be thus able to visit Ra- venna, rapidly it is true, and return to Bologna on the same evening. From Castel Bolognese the rly. crosses the almost level plain of La Romagna, which is here richly culti- vated, passing by Solarolo, Lugo, Bagna- cavallo (described at p. 564, Rte. (38), and Eussi. 'J'his part of the journey will offer little interest except to the agriculturist, until reaching the station at Ravenna, which is at the N. ex- tremity of the town, between the fortress and the Porta Alberoni, and within a short distance of the Corso and Piazza Maggiore. Omnibuses and cabs at the station, with fixed fares ; for excursions in the environs an agreement must be made. RAVENNA. — (7nns ; La Spada Nova, or Spada d'Oro, good for Ra- venna, but far from good, an unim- proved inn, and not clean. {MarcjuiSy S., 1867) *' charges for carriages exor- bitant." Stranghellini is an intelligent domestique de place here. The San Marco, in the same street, with a fair cafe ; dell' Europa, near it ; La Bella Emilia, on the Via di Porta Adriana, tolerable.) Ravenna, once the capital of the West- ern Empire, the seat of the Gothic and Longobardic kings, and the metropolis of the Greek Exarchs, is one of those historical cities which are best illus- trated by their monuments. W ithin its walls repose the children of Theodosius, and amidst the tombs of its exarchs and patriarchs lie the mortal remains of Dante. A short distance beyond the gates is the mausoleum of Theodoric, king of the Goths : the city ramparts still bear evidence of the breaches made in them by the barbarians who invaded Italy during the Lower Em- pire, and its half-deserted streets are filled with Christian antiquities which have undergone scarcely any change since the time of Justinian. As the traveller wanders through them, their solitude recalls the feelings with which he may have ridden round the walls of Constantinople; but Ravenna has preserved more memorials of her imperial masters, and possesses a far higher interest for the Christian anti- quary, than even that celebrated seat of empire. "Whoever loves early Chris- tian monuments, whoever desires to see them in greater perfection than the lapse of 14 centuries could warrant us in expecting, whoever desires to study them unaided by the remains of heathen antiquity, should make every effort to spend ^ some days at 568 Route 69a. — Rammia : History, Sect. VIT. least in this noble and imperial city. From Rome it differs mainly in this — that your meditations on its ornaments are not disturbed by the constant recur- rence of pagan remains, nor your re- searches perplexed by the necessity of inquiring what was built and what was borrowed by the faithful. Ravenna has only one antiquity, and that is Christian. Seated like Rome in the midst of an unhealthy, desolate plain, except when its unrivalled pine-forests cast a shade of deeper solitude and melancholy over it; quiet and lonely, without the sound of wheels upon its grass-grown pavement; it 'has not merely to lament over the decay of ancient magnificence, but upon its total destruction — except what Religion has erected for herself. She was not in time to apply her saving as well as purifying unction to the basilicas and temples of preceding ages ; or rather, she seemed to occupy what she could replace, and therefore, in the strength of imperial favour, raised new buildings for the Christian worship, such as no other city but Rome could boast of." — Ccirdinal Wiseman. The history of Ravenna embraces a considerable portion of that not only of Italy during the middle ages, but also of the Eastern and Western Empires. Omitting details, it will be useful for the appreciation of its anti- quities to give a rapid sketch of its history under its ancient masters. The accounts by classical writers show that the ancient city was built on wooden piles in the midst of a vast lagiine, or swamp, and so intersected with marshes that com- munication was kept up by numerous bridges, not only throughout the ad- jacent country, but even in the city itself. The sea, which is now from 3 to 4 m. distant, then flowed up to its walls. Ravenna became a Roman colony at an early period. In the contests between Sylla and Marius it espoused the cause of the latter, for which it subsequently severely suf- fered ; and, judging from an expres- sion in Cicero, was an important naval station at the time of Pompey. Csesar occupied it previous to his invasion of Italy. Under Augustus its con- sequence was increased by the construc- tion of an ample port at the mouth of the Candianus, capable of affording shelter to 250 ships, and which super- seded the old harbour at the mouth of the Ronco. He connected the new port with the Po by means of a canal, and carried a causeway to it from the city, which he made his frequent residence, and embellished with magnificent build- ings. The new harbour was called tortus Chassis, a name still retained in the distinctive title of the basilica of S. Apollinaris; and the intermediate settlement which arose from the esta- blishment of the port was called Cccsarea^ whose name also was per- petuated until a comparatively recent period by the church of S. Lorenzo in Cesarea. Subsequent emperors added to the natural strength of Ravenna by fortifying and maintaining its im- portance as a naval station. But its true interest does not commence until after the classical age. On the decline of the Roman empire, Ho- norius chose Ravenna as the capital of the Western Empire, a.d. 404. As early as then the alluvial deposits of the Po had begun to accumulate on the coast; the port of Augustus had been gra- dually filled up, and the forest of pines which supplied the Roman fleet with timber had usurped the site where that fleet had once rode at anchor, and spread far along the shore, thus extend- ing gradually to a greater distance from the city. These and other circum- stances combined to make it a place of security ; and Honorius, afraid of re- maining defenceless at Milan, chose Ravenna as his residence, where his personal safety was secure amidst the canals and morasses, which were then too shallow to admit the large vessels of the enemy. He availed himself of these changes to strengthen the city with additional fortifications, and so far succeeded that its impregnable position saved it from the inroads of the bar- barians under Radagaldus and Alaric. Without entering into details of the Imperial rule at Ravenna under Pla- cidia, the sister of Honorius, during the minority of her son Valentinian, it may ROMAGNA. Route (S^kr —Ravenna : History, 569 suffice to state that under her feeble successors even the natural advantages of the city were unable to offer an effec- tual resistance to the hordes under Odo- acer, who, in little more than 70 years after the arrival of Honorius, made him- self master of Kavenna, and extinguish- ed the Empire of the West, by depos- ing Komulus Augustulus, the last of the Caisars. His rule, however, had lasted but 15 years when Theodoric, king of the Ostro-Goths, crossed the Alps with a powerful army, and after several gallant struggles overthrew Odoacer, and made Ravenna the capital of the Gothic kingdom. Theodoric was succeeded in the sovereignty of Italy by two of his descendants, and they in turn by a series of elective kings, from Vitiges, the last of whom, Justinian endeavoured to reconquer the lost pro- vinces, aided by the military genius of Belisarius. The campaign of that cele- brated general, and his siege and capture of Ravenna, are familiar to every reader of the ' Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire.' It would be out of place to dwell upon the circumstances which led to the re- call of Belisarius, and the appointment of Narses, the new general of Justinian, who drove the Goths out of Italy, and was intrusted with the administration of the Italian kingdom with the title of Exarch. The rank thus conferred upon the favourite lieutenant of the emperor was extended to his successors during the continuance of the Greek sovereignty : the functions of the ex- archs corresponded in some measure to those of the ancient praetorian prefects. Their government comprised the entire kingdom of Italy, including Rome itself, and the pope or bishop of the Christian capital was regarded as subject to their authority, possessing merely a temporal barony in Rome, but dependent on the exarchate. The territory understood to be comprised in the Exarchate embraced modern Romagna, the districts of Fer- rara and Comacchio, the maritime Pen- tapolis or towns extending along the Adriatic from Rimini to Ancona, and a second or inland Pentapolis, including several towns on the eastern declivities of the Apennines. The exarchate lasted 185 years, during which the people of Rome erected a kind of republic under their bishop ; and Astaulphus, king of the Lombards, seeing that Ravenna would be an easy prey, drove out Eutychius, the last exarch, be- came master of the city, and made it the metropolis of the Longobardic kingdom (a.d. 754). The attempt of the Lombards to seize Rome also, as a dependency of the exarchate, brought to the aid of the Church the powerful army of {be Franks under Pepin and Charlemagne, by whom the Lombards were expelled, and Ravenna with the exarchate made over to the Holy See as a temporal possession; '* and the world beheld for the first time a Christian bishop invested with the pre- rogatives of a temporal prince, the choice of magistrates, the exercise of justice, the imposition of taxes, and the wealth of the palace of Ravenna." After the transfer of the exarchate to the Bishops of Rome by the Carlo- vingian princes, the fortunes of Ravenna began rapidly to decline; its archbishops frequently seized the government, and it was the scene of repeated commotions among its own citizens. In the 13th century the constitution of Ravenna strongly tended to an aristocracy ; its general council was composed of 250, and its special council of 70 persons. In the contests of the Guelphs and Ghibelines, Pietro Traversari, an ally of the former, declared himself Duke of Ravenna (1218), without changing the municipal institutions of the city. His son and successor quarrelled with the emperor Frederick II., who reduced Ravenna to obedience and despoiled it of many of its treasures. The city was shortly after seized upon by Innocent IV., and reduced again to the authority of the Roman pontiffs, who governed it by vicars. In 1275 it was ruled by the family of Novella, Lords of Polenta, whose connection with it is commemo- rated by Dante under the image of the eagle which figured in their armoria bearings. " Ravenna sta com' b statamolti anni; L'aquila da Polenta 1^ si cova, Si, che C^rvja ricopre coi snoi vannl." Inf. xxvii. 670 Route 69a.' — Bavenna : History. Sect. VII. *' The state Ravenna hath maintain' d this many a year Is steadfast. There Polenta's eagle broods : And in her broad circumference of plumes O'ershadows Cervia." Gary's Trans. After some subsequent changes the inhabitants were induced by civil tu- mults, arising from the ambition or cu- pidity of its powerful citizens, to throw themselves under the protection of Venice, by which the government was seized in 1441. Ravenna flourished under the republic; its public build- ings were restored, its fortress Avas strengthened, and the laws were ad- ministered with justice and wisdom. After retaining it for 68 years, the Ve- netians finally ceded it to the Roman See in 1509 under Julius II.: and it then became the capital of Romagna, and was governed by papal legates. In less than 3 years after this event the general Italian war which followed the league of Cambray brought into Italy the army of Louis XII. under Gaston de Foix, who began his campaign of Ro- magna by the siege of Ravenna. After a vain attempt to carry it by assault, in which he was bravely repulsed by the inhabitants, the arrival of the papal and Spanish troops induced him to give battle, on Easter Sunday, April 11, 1512. Italy had never seen so bloody a combat ; little short of 20,000 men are said to have lain dead upon the field, when the Spanish infantry, yet un- broken, slowly retreated. Gaston de Foix, furious at seeing them escape, rushed upon the formidable host in the vain hope of throwing them into dis- order, and perished in the attempt about 3 m. from the walls of Ravenna. The French gained the victory, but it was dearly purchased by the loss of their chivalrous commander. At the French invasion of 1796 Ra- venna was deprived of its rank as the capital of Romagna, which was given to Forli ; but it Avas restored by Austria in 1799, only to be again transferred by the French in the following year. On the fall of the Kingdom of Italy, Ravenna was again made the chief city of the province, but its ancient glory had passed for ever, and only 3 towns and a few villages were left subject to its authority. Ravenna, at the present time, is the chief city of a province comprehending a pop. of 209,518 Tnhab., including the suburbs, and a surface of 528 square m. ; the city is inhabited by 21,056 persons, and its immediate territory irrigated by numerous rivers and torrents. It is the seat of an archbishop, to whom most of the bishops of Romagna are suffragans. Its bishopric, one of the most ancient in the Christian world, was founded a.d. 44, by S. Apollinaris, a disciple of Peter ; and it obtained the dignity of an archi episcopal see as early as 439, under Sixtus III. The circuit of the city is about 3 m., but nearly one-half of the enclosed space consists of gardens. Besides its churches and other objects of antiquarian interest, it contains a college, a museum, public schools, and an academy of the fine arts. Its port, communicating with the Adriatic by a canal, is still considered one of the great outlets of Romagna, and carries on a considerable trade with Venetia, the Austrian possessions in Istria and Dalmatia, and the Italian provinces on the Adriatic. To visit everything of interest at Ravenna will not occupy the active traveller more than a day : to facilitate his doing so a carriage with one horse may be procured at the rly. stat. and hotels. Most persons, by going from Bologna by the early train, can return by the latest one. There is a fair cafe (Barbucci) in the Piazza Vittoria P^manuele, which will suit most visitors* wants. A steamer sails for Trieste every Saturday at 3*30 p.m., returning from Trieste on Wednesday at 10 p.m. ; length of voyage, 10 to 11 hrs. The following topographical order will be perhaps the most useful to follow : — 1st day : Duomo ; Baptistery ; Archbishop's Palace; Palazzo Ras- poni and Gallery ; Porta Adrian a and Boulevart near it ; Churches of San Vitale and Santa Maria Mag- giore ; Tomb of Galla Placidia ; Ch. of San Giovanni Battista; Porta Serrata; Mausoleum of Theodoric; returning into the city by the Port ROMAGNA, Route QdA.-^-^Eavenna : Cathedral, 571 of Ravenna and Porta Alberoni ; Pa- lace OF Theodoric ; Ch. of S. Apol- LTNARE NUOVO ; Cll. of S. GlOVANNI EvANGELiSTA; Clis. of S. Spii'ito and S. Maria in Cosmedin, Piazza Mag- giore; &c. 2nd day : Tomb of Dante ; Ch. of S. Francesco ; Honse of Lord Byron ; AccADEMiA delle Bklle Arti ; Li- brary ; Ch. of S. RoMUALDO ; Col- lege, Library, and Museum. Ch. of S. Nicolo; Ch. of S. Agata; Porta Sisi ; Santa Maria in Porto ; Porta Nuova ; S. Apollinare in Classe ; Santa Maria in Porto Fuori ; driving back THROUGH the Pineta to the em- bouchure of the Canal in the Adriatic, and thence along the former to the Porta Alberoni at Ravenna. The Cathedral, once a remarkable example of the ancient Basilica, has lost all traces of its original character. It was built by S. Ursus, archbishop of the see, in the 4th century, and called from him " Basilica Ursiana." It was almost entirely rebuilt in the last century ; the cylindrical cam- panile alone remains of the original foundation. Amongst the objects of interest in the present ch, are the celebrated paintings by Guido in the chapel of the Holy Sacrament repre- senting the fall of the manna, and in the lunette above the meeting of Mel- chizedek and Abraham ; these are classed by Lanzi among Guido's best works. The frescoes of the Cupola, with the exception of the Archangel Michael, are attributed to his pupils, as well as the four Prophets on the pen- dentives below. Near this, in a lunette, over an arch at the entrance of the sacristy, is Guido's fresco of the Angel bringing food to Elijah, the latter a fine sleeping figure. Among the other pictures which deserve notice are the grand Banquet of Ahasuerus, over the great entrance, by Carlo Bonone, well known by the minute description of Lanzi, and the modern paintings in the choir, of the death of St. Peter Chrysologus by Benevenutl, and of the Consecration of the ch. by St. Ursus, by Camuccini. The high altar contains a marble urn, in which are deposited the remains of several early bishops of the see. The silver crucifix of St. Agnellus on this altar is covered with sculptures of the 6th century. The chapel of the Madonna del Sudore contains two large marble urns co- vered with bas-reliefs, in one of which, as related by the inscription, are the ashes of St. Barbatian, confessor of Galla Placidia; in the other those of San Rinaldus. Behind the choir are 2 semicircular marble slabs with sym- bolical representations of birds and animals, which formed part of the an- cient arnho or pulpit, a work of the 6th century, as shown by the inscrip- tion stating that it was erected by St. Agnellus. Near these slabs is a bas- relief of St. Mark by Lombardi. In the sacristy is a Paschal calendar on marble, a remarkable monument of astronomical knowledge in the early times of Christianity. It was calcu- lated for 95 years, beginning with 532, and ending in 626. The Sacristy also contains the pastoral chair of St, Maximianus, formed entirely of ivory, with his monogram in front. The bas-reliefs below the monogram re- present the Saviour in the character of a shepherd and priest in the midst of the 4 evangelists : on the 2 ends is the history of Joseph, and those which remain on the back represent various events in the life of the Saviour, with arabesque designs of animals. It is precious as a specimen of art in the 6th century, but it has evidently suffered from injudicious cleaning. Enclosed, within the grand door of the cathedral are still preserved some fragments of its celebrated Door of vine-wood, which has been superseded by one of modern construction. The original planks are said to have been 13 feet long and nearly Ij wide — a proof that the an- cients were correct in stating that the vine attains a great size, and con- firmatory of the assertion that the statue of Diana of Ephesus was made of the vine- wood of Cyprus. It is probable that the wood of the Ravenna doors was imported from Constantinople. The ancient Baptistery, called also " S. Giovanni in Fonte," separated from the cathedral by a street, is supposed 572 Route 69a. — Ravenna : Churches. Sect. VII. to have been likewise founded by S. Ursus: it was repaired in 451 by arch- bishop Neo, and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. It is, like many baptiste- ries of the early Christians, an octago- nal building ; the interior has 2 ranges of arcades, the lower resting on 8 co- lumns of different orders with marble capitals, placed in the angles of the building ; the upper, 24 in number, are dissimilar in dimensions as well as in the style of the capitals. The lower columns are considerably sunk in the ground, and both these and the upper series are supposed to have belonged to some ancient temple. The cupola is adorned with well-preserved mosaics of the 5th century, representing in the centre Christ baptized in the Jordan by St. John, with a representation of the river, having its name placed over it, and in the circumference the 12 apostles, each with his name and bearing wreaths or crowns, and below emblems, of the Gospels, bishops, thrones, and withother ornaments. (The most correct representations of these, as well as of most other ancient mosaics of Ravenna, will be found in Ciampini, Vetera Mo- numenta, 3 vols. foL, Roma, 1757, and of those of the tomb of Galla Placidia in Quast's * Alt. Christlichen Bauwerke von Ravenna,' I vol. fol. Berlin, 1842.) The grand vase under the cupola, which was formerly used for baptism by im- mersion, is of slabs of white marble and porphyry, with a recess or ambo for the officiating priest. A chapel in one of the recesses of the building contains under its altar a sculptured marble of the Cth century, which formerly be- longed to the ciborium of the old ca- thedral ; and in another a beautiful urn of Parian marble covered with symbols supposed to relate to the ancient nuptial purifications ; it was found in the temple of Jupiter at Csesarea. The ancient metal cross of the summit of the building merits notice on account of its antiquity : it bears an inscription recording that it was erected in 688 by Archbishop Theodorus. It has recently been removed, and now stands in front of the church, but an exact representation of it -has been let into the inner wall of the baptistery. In the adjoining square are several mediaeval and sepulchral urns in marble. The Ch. of Sta. Agata, in the street leading to the Porta Sisi, another ancient edifice, dating from the early part of the 5th century, has a nave and two aisles divided by 20 columns, partly of granite, of cip- polino, and of other marbles, in gene- ral with ancient composite capitals, the imposts over which have the cross sculptured upon them. The wall which rises over them was formerly pierced with numerous windows, as we see in the smaller Christian basilicas. The choir contains a painting of the Crucifixion, by Francesco da Cotignola ; and the chapel at the end of the rt. aisle one of Luca Longhi's best works, representing S. Agata, St. Catherine, and St. Cecilia. The altar of this chapel contains the bodies of S. Ser- gius martyr, and S. Agnellus arch- bishop, and bears the two monograms of Sergius Diaconus. The corresponding chapel in the opposite aisle has a good painting of the Virgin and St. Peter by Barhianl, The tribune was once covered with mosaics of the 6thcenty., but which were destroyed by an earth- quake in 1688. The very ancient pulpit is worthy of notice ; it is formed of a hollowed-out section of a huge fluted column of cipolino marble from some gigantic pagan edifice. The Gh. of S, Apollinare JSfuovo, in the Corso or long street leading from Porta Nuova to P. Serrata, built by Theo- doric in the beginning of the sixth century as the cathedral for his Arian bishops, was consecrated for Catholic worship by archbishop S. Agnellus, at the close of the Gothic kingdom, and dedicated to S. Martin. It was also called San Martino in Celo Aureo, on account of its magnificent decorations, and Sacellum Arii from its original destination. It assumed its present name in the 9th century, from the belief that the body of S. Apollinaris had been transferred within its walls, in order to secure it in its real resting-place at Classe from the attacks of the Saracens. The 24 marble columns of grey cippo- lino supporting the rounded arches di- vidinaj the nave from the aisles were EoMAGNA, Iioute 69a.— i?( 'xavenna . ChurciieSi m brought from Constantinople ; they have composite capitals, on each of which is an impost with Latin crosses sculptured on it. The walls of the nave, which rest on these arches, are covered with superb mosaics, exe- cuted about A.D. 570. On the 1. is re- presented the city of Classis, with the sea and ships ; then come 22 virgins, each holding in her hand a crown, pre- ceded by the magi, in the act of pre- senting their offerings to the Virgin and Child seated upon a throne with 2 angels on either side. *' This superb mosaic, the finest in the whole of Ka- venna, may deserve attention on another account : the earliest monuments of Christian art give little countenance to Mariolatry, or the peculiar veneration to the Virgin, which has so long distin- guished the Greek and Koman churches. In this mosaic, however, though the presence of the magi with offerings may seem to denote some relation to the Nativity as an historical fact, the 22 Virgins in their company, the 4 Angels as it were guarding the Mother and Child, and especially the Glory round her head, exclude all but an allegorical or symbolical meaning, and lead to the conclusion that this great corruption of Christianity was established in the Church before the end of the 6th centy., while the absence of similar representa- tions in earlier works would lead to an opposite inference." — //. Hallcun. On the opposite side of the nave, the mosaic presents us with a picture of Ravenna at that period, in which we distinguish the Basilica of S. Vitale, and an edifice supposed to represent the palace of Theodoric from its bearing the word Palatium on the facade : and 25 saints holding crowns, each having a glory round the head, and receiving the benediction of the Saviour sitting on a throne between 4 angels. The first in the procession is in a violet instead of white tunic, and bears the name of Martinus, the patron of the ch. The rest of these walls, as high as the roof, are covered with mosaics representing the fathers of the Old and New Testa- ments, and various miracles of the Saviour. Another mosaic, in toler- able preservation, representing the emperor Justinian, is concealed behind the organ. In the nave is the ancient marble pulpit covered with early Chris- tian sculptures, supported by a mass of grey granite. The altars of this ch. are rich in marbles. In the last chapel, opening out of the 1. aisle, are some ancient relics — the urn in which are said to be preserved the remains of St. Apollinaris, and beneath the ancient marble chair of the Benedictine abbots, to whom the ch. formerly belonged: it is supposed to be a work of the 10th cent. Sta. Chiara, off the Strada di Porta Alberoni. In the ruined buildings are some paintings of an early date, attri- buted to Giotto. — Miss Frere, July, 1868. The Ch. of Santa Croce, built by Galla Placidia in the 5th century, near her mausoleum, and consecrated by St. Peter Chrysologus, has been sadly ruined. The Ch. of San Domenico, a restora- tion of an ancient basilica founded by the exarchs, contains some works by Niccolb Eondinello, of Ravenna, a pupil of Giov. Bellini. The Virgin and Child with S. Jerome, S. Dominick, S. Joseph, and S. Francis of Assisi, the Annuncia- tion, the S. Domenico and St. Peter in the choir, and the Virgin and Child with the Magdalen and other saints. In the chapel on 1. of the high altar is an ancient wooden crucifix curiously covered with fine linen in imitation of human skin, which is said to have sweated blood during the battle of Ravenna under Gaston de Foix. The 2nd chapel on the 1. contains, in small circular paintings, the Fifteen Mysteries of the Rosary, by Liica Longhi: and the 3rd on the rt. has a picture by the same artist representing the Invention of the Cross. A large painting on panel in the choir, of the Virgin and Child with saints, bears the name of Benedictus Armini. Longhi the painter is buried in this ch. The Ch. of S. Francesco, near the Theatre and Piazza Maggiore, sup- posed to have been erected in the middle of the 5th centy., by St. Peter Chrysologus, on the site of a temple of Neptune, has suffered from modern restorations. It has a nave and 2 aisles divided by 22 columns of white and 5f4 lioute 69a. — Ravenna : Churches. Sect. Vll. feippollno marble. In the chapel at the extremity of the rt. aisle is an urn containing the remains of S. Liberius, archbishop of the see, a fine work, referred to the 4th or 5th century ; on it is a series of bas-reliefs of the 12 Apostles, with the Saviour in the centre. The chapel of the Crucifix contains 2 beautiful columns of Greek marble, decorated with capitals sculp- tured by Pietro Lomhardo^ by whom likewise are the rich arabesques of the frieze and pilasters. In the 1. aisle is the tomb of Tiuffo Numai, of Forli, secretary of Pino Ordelaffi, lord of that city, the work of Tommaso Flam- herti. In the 4th chapel on rt. a pic- ture of the Madonna, with the Doiia- taria, by Sacchi d^Imola^ a rare mas- ter. Upon the wall on the rt. of the entrance door is a sepulchral slab tomb, formerly on the floor, with the figure in bas-relief of Ostasio da Polenta, lord of Ravenna, clothed in the dress of a Franciscan monk, and bearing the following inscription in Gothic characters : '* Hie jacet magnificus Dominus Hostasius de Polenta qui ante diem felix obiens occubuit MCCCLXXXXVI die xiv mensis Martii, cujus anima requiescat in pace." The head of Ostasio is beautiful. The Po- lenta family, so celebrated for their hospitality to Dante and for the fate of Francesca da Rimini, are buried in this ch. On the 1. side of the doorway is a similar sepulchral stone, on which is sculptured the figure of Enrico Alfieri, general of the Franciscan order, who died at the age of 92, in 1405, as recorded by a long inscription in hexameters. He was of Asti, and probably of the family of the great poet who has given immortality to the name. Outside the ch., towards the Piazza, is the Capella Braccioforte, in which are sortie ancient sarcophagi j hidden in the walls of which were disco- vered the bones of Dante in May 1865. On the N. side of S. Francesco, but de- tached from it, and in what was the cemetery of the friars, is the mausoleum of Dante. In the Piazza before this ch. is a statue of Pope Alexander VII. The house which forms the corner of the little square is that which Lord Byron inhabited for several months on his first arrival at Ravenna in 1819. The Qhiirch of S. Giovanni Battista, near the Porta Serrata, also called ^S'. {?. daile CatinCy erected by Galla Pla- cidia for her confessor St. Barbatian in 438, was consecrated by St. Peter Chrysologus, but it was almost entirely rebuilt in 1683. In the Piazzetta be- fore it are 3 huge sarcophagi, the largest of which contains the ashes of Pietro Traversari, lord of Ravenna, who died in 1225. The columns of the interior are chiefly adapted from the ancent building ; some of them, how- ever, were found in the neighbourhood of the ch. on the supposed site of the imperial palace in which Galla Placidia resided. The ch. contains 2 paintings by Francesco Longhi, one in the 1. transept representing the Virgin and Child with St. Clement and St. Jerome ; the other, in the 1st chapel on 1,, the Virgin and Child with St. Matthew and St. Francis of Assisi. The circular Campanile of this ch. is one of the best preserved specimens of this class of Bell-towers, so peculiar to Ravenna ; it has six tiers of openings ; the upper one of narrow arches, with its terminal cornice and its pyramidal roof entire. The Basilica of S. Giovanni Fva^i" gelista^ also called S, Giovanni delta Sagra, in a recess off the Corso di Porta Serrata, was founded in 414 by the Empress Galla Placidia, in fulfilment of a vow made in a tempest during the voyage from Constantinople to Ravenna with her children. Like the cathedral it has lost much of its ancient character by restorations, and most of its mosaics have disappeared. The Church tradi- tion relates that, not knowing with what relic to enrich the church, the empress was praying on the subject when St. John appeared to her in a vision ; she threw herself at his feet for the purpose of embracing them, but the evangelist disappeared, leaving one of his sandals as a relic. This vision is represented in a beautiful bas-relief over the pointed doorway, a work pro- bably of the 13th centy. ; the lower part shows St. John incensing the altar, with the empress embracing his feet ; in the upper part she appears Ro MAGNA 4 lioute 60a. — Batenna ': ChurcJi kes. 575 offering the sandal to the Saviour and St. John, while S. Barbatian and his attendants are seen on the other side. The doorway, especially in the small niches, is richly sculptured with figures of saints, and is a very fine specimen of the architecture of the period. The interior of the church, consisting of a nave and aisles, supported by 24 an- cient columns, contains the high altar, beneath which repose the remains of SS.Canzius, Canzianus, and Canzianilla, martyrs; in the chapel of St. Barthc lomew, at the extremity of the 1. aisle, are some fragments of a mosaic, representing the storm and the vow of Galla Placidia. The vault of the fourth chapel on the same side is painted by Giotto, representing the four Evangelists with their symbols, and St. Gregory, St. Ambrose, St. Augustin, and St. Jerome. All these frescoes have been more or less repainted, the SS. John, Matthew, and Gregory the least. The walls of the chapel, once covered with fres- coes, have been whitewashed over. Beneath the choir is the ancient altar of the confessional, in marble, por- phyry, and serpentine, a work of the fifth century. The old quadrangular Campanile, the articulations of which were ornamented with white and green mosaics, is remarkable for its 2 bells cast by Robert of Saxony in 1208. The Ch.yOV Oratory of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, which opens out of the court of the ch. of S. Spirito, near here (see be- low), was the ancient Arian baptistery : its vault was decorated with mosaics in the 6th century, after it had passed to the Catholic worship. It is an octagonal building. The mosaics of the roof re- present the Baptism in the Jordan in the centre, the river issuing from the urn of a river god ; the Saviour half immersed in it, and who alone has a glory round the head : lower down, forming a circular band, are the Twelve Apostles, each bearing a crown in his hand, with the exception of St. Peter, who carries the keys, and St. Paul, who bears 2 scrolls, advancing towards a throne covered with a veil and cushion, and occupied by a cross only. Upon the large round block of granite in the centre of the floor is supposed to have stood the ancient baptismal font. The Ch. of Sta. Maria in Porto, in the Corso, near the Porta Nuova, built of the materials from the Basilica of S. Lorenzo in Cesarea, in 1553, with a fa9ade erected in the last centy., is perhaps the finest ch. of recent date in Ravenna. It is celebrated for an image of the Virgin, in the chapel of the rt. transept, in marble, in an oriental costume, and in the act of praying — a very early specimen of Christian art, originally placed in the ch. of Sta. Maria in Porto Fuori, and transferred here in the i6th century. The 3rd chapel on the rt. contains a fine painting by Palma Giovane, the Martyrdom of St. Mark. The 5th chapel of the opposite aisle has a painting by Luca Longhi, representing the Virgin, with St. Augustin and other saints. In the choir is an ancient vase in red porphyry, beautifully worked, supposed to have been a Roman sepulchral urn. The adjoining cloister was erected 1507. The Ch, of S. Nicolb, built by Arch- bishop Sergius, in 768, in fulfilment of a vow, contains numerous paintings by Padre Cesar e Pronti, an Augustinian monk, sometimes called P. Cesare di Ra- venna. Among these may be mentioned the St. Thomas of Villanova; the St. Nicholas .; the St. Augustin ; the Virgin; Sta. Monica, considered his masterpiece; and the San Francesco di Paola. The large painting of the Nativity over the entrance door, the St. Sebastian on the 1. wall of the choir towards the nave, and the St. Catherine on the rt., are by Francesco da Cotignola, and good speci- mens of this master ; the archangel Ra- phael is by Girolamo Genga. Outside this ch. is one of the largest mediaeval sarco- phagi in Ravenna. On it are sculptures of the Saviour, of the Annunciation ^ &c. The Ch. of S. Pomualdo, or Classe, originally belonging to the Camaldolese order, is now the chapel of the college of Ravenna. The cupola is painted in fresco by Giamhattista Barhiani, who was also the painter of the S. Romualdo in the choir, and of the frescoes in the 1st chapel on the 1. of the entrance. The 2nd chapel contains a picture of S. Romualdo, by Guercino. The 1st bu Route Q^A.—itdvenna i Sail Viiale. Sect. Vlli chapel on the rt. has a painting of S. Bartholomew and S. Severus, by Fran- ceschini; and the 2nd a picture of S. Benedict, by Carlo Cignani. The sa- cristy contains 2 fine columns of red porphyry, found near St. Apollinare in Classe; and the picture of the Raising of Lazarus, by Francesco da Cotignola, The frescoes of the roof are by P. Cesare Pronti. In the refectory of the adjoining convent, now the college, is a fresco of the marriage of Cana, by Luca Longhi and his son Francesco. The altars of this ch. almost surpass in brilliancy and riches all the others in the city. The Ch. of the Santo Spirito, called also that of S. Teodoro, was built in the 6th century by Theodoric, for the Arian bishops ; it assumed the name of S. Theodore after its consecration to the Catholic worship by S. Agnellus, and afterwards took the present name. It is in the form of a small basilica ; the arches of its nave being on columns of grey and other marbles, with composite capitals and Latin crosses on their im- posts. Besides its rich marble columns, it contains in the 1st chapel on 1. a curi- ous pulpit, or anibo, with rude sculp- tures of the 6th century. In front of the ch. is a- portico, and near it the Oratory of Sta. Maria in Cosmedin (see p. 553), the once Arian baptistery. The magnificent Basilica of San Vitale (in a small square, near the Porta Adriana) exhibits the octagonal form with all the accessories of Eastern splendour. As one of the earliest Chris- tian temples, it is of the highest interest in the history of ecclesiological art. It was built in the reign of Justinian by S. Ecclesius, the archbishop of the see, on the spot where St. Vitalis suffered mar- tyrdom, and was consecrated by St. Maximianus in 547. It is an imitation of Sta. Sophia at Constantinople, and was adopted by Charlemagne as the model of his church at Aix-la-Chapelle. The original pavement is considerably below the present floor, and is covered with water at times. The architecture of the interior exhibits 8 arches resting on as many piers, between which are semicircular recesses of 2 stories, each divided into 3 small arches by 2 columns between the principal piers. The spaces between the lower columns open into the circu- lar aisle, and those between the upper into a gallery. Above, the building becomes entirely circular* Tlie four- teen columns of the upper story have complicated capitals, some of which bear an anchor, supposed to indicate that they belonged to a temple of Neptune. The 14 columns of the lower range have also Byzantine capitals; and on each of the imposts of these columns are 2 monograms. The pilasters and the walls are covered with large slabs of white marble, on which are still to be traced some fragments of a frieze. The colossal dome was painted, in the early part of the 18th century, with frescoes representing the fathers of the Old and New Testaments, with various decorations, such as festoons of roses hanging from the roof; all in the most barbarous taste, and in total vari- ance with the architectural character of the building. The dome is con- structed of earthen pots, and is perhaps the most perfect specimen known of this kind of work.*' They are small vessels, having the point of one in- serted in the mouth of the other in a continued spiral, and placed hori- zontally. The spandrils are par- tially filled with others of larger size, twisted only at the point, and ar- ranged vertically. The walls and vault of the choir are covered with mosaics of the time of Justinian, as beautiful and as fresh as on the day when they were placed here ; invaluable as speci- mens of art, no less than as studies of costume. The most elaborate of these mosaics are those of the tribune, repre- senting in the larger compartments on the 1. the Emperor Justinian holding a vase containing consecrated offerings ; he is surrounded by courtiers and soldiers, and by St. Maximianus and two priests. In the compartment on the opposite wall is the Empress Theodora with a similar vase, which she offers to two courtiers, attended by the ladies of her court, in varied and elegant costumes ; the expression of some of the figures is remarkable, considering the material in which they are repre- iioMAGNA. ixoute 69a. — JRamnna: San Vitate. fji sented. In tlie vault above is the Saviour throned on the globe between archangels; on his rt. is S. Vitalis receiving the crown of martyrdom; and on the 1. S. Eutychius ottering a model of the ch., both saints being without glories round the heads. The roof is decorated with arabesques, urns, the 12 Apostles, and other or- namental devices. The mosaics on the concavity of the arch represent half figures of the Saviour and the 12 Apostles, with S. Gervasius and S. Protasius, sons of S. Vitalis. The semi- circular mosaic on the rt. of the altar represents the sacrifices of the Old Law, tlie Offering of Abel, and of Melchize- dek ; beyond it Moses tending the sheep of Madan ; Moses on Mount Horeb ; Moses in the act of taking off his sandals at the command of the Al- mighty, represented by a hand in the heavens. The corresponding compart- ments on the opposite wall have refer- ence to the sacrifice by Abraham ; the three Angels entertained by the latter on foretelling the birth of a child, while Sarah stands in the doorway ridi- culing the prediction ; on the sides and above, Moses on Mount Sinai; the prophets Isaiah and Jeremiah ; and on a level with the music galleries the four Evangelists with their emblems. The preservation of these extraordinary mosaics, still retaining the freshness of their colours, amidst all the revolutions of Ravenna, is truly wonderful; they have been the admiration of every writer, and they cannot fail to afford the highest interest not merely to the Christian antiquary, but to all travellers of taste. The splendid columns are mostly of Greek marble. On the im- posts of the arches of the upper columns on the sides of this choir are two mo- nograms of Julianus, written on one of them in the reverse. Near the high altar, on each side, are the celebrated bas-reliefs called the '* Throne of Nep- tune,'* compared for their execution and design to the finest works of an- tiquity. In them are seen the throne of the god, with a sea-monster extended beneath it; a winged genius holds a trident on the rt., and on the 1. two other genii are seen bearing a large N, Italy—lSGd, conque shell. Tlie oi-naments of these sculptures are pilasters of the Corinthian order, a cornice with tridents, dolphins, shells, and two sea-horses. The columns ofverde antico and Egyptian breccia on each side of these bas-reliefs sup- ported the canopy over the high altar of the original ch. Several chapels sur- round the circular aisle of the basilica: that of the Holy Sacrament has on the altar a gilded ciborium attributed to Michel Angela, and a picture of St. Benedict by Francesco Gessi, a pupil of Guido. The Assumption of St. Ger- trude in another is by Andrea BarUani, In that of La Pieta is a huge marble group of the Dead Saviour and Maries, by 2bscAmz and Bertos. Next follows an opening of 3 arches in the outer wall, and immediately opposite to the tri- bune ; this was the principal entrance to the basilica ; it was preceded by a grand portico covered with mosaics, which, as well as the adjoining circular towers, were destroyed by the great earthquake of 1688. The chapel of S. Vitale has a statue by the before-mentioned sculp- tors. We next reach the vestibule of the Sacristy, with a good bas-relief of a sacrifice ; it is supposed to have been one of the decorations of a temple dedi- cated to Augustus. The pictures in the Sacristy are the Virgin and Child throned, with St. Sebastian and other saints, by Luca Longhi, a native artist; the Sta. Agata is by his daughter Bar- bara, and the Annunciation by his son Francesco ; the Martyrdom of S. Eras- mus is by another native painter, Giambattista Barbiani ; the Martyrdom of St. James and St. Philip is by Camillo Frocaccini. The Tomb of the Exarch Isaac, " the great ornament of Armenia," remains to be noticed. It is in a recess off the passage from the side door of the basilica leading towards the street. It was erected to his me^ mory by his wife Susanna, and bears a Greek inscription on the cover record- ing the fame he acquired in the east and in the west, and comparing her widow- hood to that of the turtle dove. The urn containing his ashes is of marble, with bas-reliefs of the Adoration of the Magi (it is worthy of remark that there is no glory round the head of the! 2 c 578 Route 69a. — Ravenna : Falace of Theodoric. Sdct. VIL Virgin), the Raising of Lazarus, and Daniel between the Lions. Isaac was the 8th exarch of Eavenna, and died in that city, according to Muratori, a.p. 644. In the same recess are some Roman and early Christian sculptures and inscriptions. A short way beyond here is the Mausoleum of Qalla Ptacidia, called also the Ch. of SS. Nazario e Celso. This once magnificent sepulchre was tuilt by the Empress Galla Placidia, the daughter of Theodosius the Great, and the mother of Valentinian III., the third and iifth emperors of the West, towards the middle of the 5th century. it is in the form of a Latin cross, 46 English ft. in length and 39| in width, and is paved with rich marbles. The cupola is entirely covered with mosaics of the time of the empress, in which we see the four Evangelists with their Symbols, and on each of the walls two full-length figures of prophets. The arch over the door has a representation of the Good Shepherd ; behind the tomb of the empress is the Saviour with the gospels in his hand : and in each of the lateral arches are two stags at a foun- tain, surrounded by arabesques and other ornaments. The high altar, in the centre of the mausoleum, com- posed of three massive slabs of Oriental alabaster, was formerly in the ch. of St. Vitale, and is referred to the sixth century. It has reliefs of an early Chris- tian period. The great object of attrac- tion however is the massive marble sar- cophagus w^hich contains the ashes of Galla Placidia. It was once covered with silver plates ; but these have dis- appeared, together with the other orna- ments with which it was originally decorated. In the side next the wall was formerly a small aperture, through which the body of the empress might be seen, sitting in a chair of cypress wood, clothed in her imperial robes. Some children having introduced a lighted candle, in 1577, the robes took fire, and the body was reduced to ashes ; since that time the aperture has re- mained closed. In the recess on the rt. side of the Mausoleum is another mar- ble sarcophagus with Christian sym- bols, which contains the remains of the Emperor Honorius II.j the brother of* Galla Placidia ; and on the 1. is that of Constantius IIL^ her second hus- band, and the father of Valentinian IIL On each side of the entrance door are two smaller sarcophagi, said to contain the remains of the tutors of Valenti- nian, and of Honoria, his sister. These sarcophagi are the only tombs of the Csesars, oriental or occidental^ which now remain in their original places. The mausoleum of Galla Placidia stands as a monument of the dreadful ca- tastrophes of the Lower Empire. This daughter of Theodosius the Great^ sister of Honorius^ mother of Valen^ tinian III., was born at Constan- tinople, and died at Rome, was a slave twice, a queen, an empress ; first the wife of the King of the Goths^ Alaric's brother-in-law, who fell in love with his captive, and afterwards of one of her brother's generals, whom she was equally successful in subjecting to her will : a talented woman, but without generosity or greatness, who hastened the fall of the empire — whose ambition and vices have obscured and, as it were, polluted her misfortunes. Palace of Theodoric, in the Corso lead- ing from the Porta Serrata to the P. Nuova, and near the ch. of St. Apollinare. Of the palace of the Gothic king, which served as the residence of his successors, of the Exarchs, and of the Lombard kings, the only portion remaining is a high wall, in the upper part of which are eight small marble columns, supporting round arches and a wide recess over the entrance gate. On one side of the latter is a large porphyry urn let into the wall, on which an inscription was placed in 1564, stating that it formerly con- tained the ashes of Theodoric, and that it was originally placed on the top of his mausoleum. Most antiquaries, how- ever, now consider that it was a bath ; the only argument in favour of its having been the sarcophagus of Theodoric is that it was found near his mausoleum. The palace was chiefly ruined by Charlemagne, who, with the consent of the pope, carried away its ornaments and mosaics, and removed to France the equestrian statue of the king which stood near it. KoMAGNA. Route ''o^k,—RdMnna .* Tomh of Dante » 579 The Tomh of Dante, on one side of the Ch. of S. Francesco, and in the street which bears the name of the poet. — The key is kept at tlie Palazzo Pubblico, the Custode of which will open it, and of conrse expect his fee. Of all the monu- ments of Kavenna, there is none which excites a more profound interest than the tomb of Dante. In spite of the taste of the building, it is impossible to approach the last resting-place of the great poet without feeling that it is one of the most hallowed monuments of Italy. " Ungrateful Florence 1 Pante sleeps afar, Like Scipio, buried by the upbraiding shore ; Thy factions, in their worse than civil war. Proscribed the bard, whose name for evermore Their children's children would in vain adore "With the remorse of ages ; and the crown "Which Petrarch's laureate brow supremely wore, Upon a far and foreign soil had grown, His life, his fame, his grave, though rifled — not thine own." Byron. The remains of the poet, who died here on the 14th Sept. 1321, at the age of 56, were originally interred in the ch. of San Francesco ; but on the ex- pulsion of his patron Guido Novella da Polenta from Kavenna, they were with difficulty protected from the persecu- tion of the Florentines and the excom- munication of the pope. Cardinal Bertrando del Poggetto, legate of la Romagna for Pope John XXII., or- dered his bones to be burnt with his tract on Monarchy, and they narrowly escaped the profanation of a disinter- ment. In 1483 Bernardo Bembo, then Podesta of Ravenna for the republic of Venice, and father of the celebrated cardinal, did honour to the memory of the poet by erecting a mausoleum on the present site, from the designs of Pietro Lombardo. In 1692 this monu- ment was repaired and restored at the public expense by Cardinal Corsi of Florence, and rebuilt in its present form in 1780, at the cost of Cardinal Valenti Gonzaga, legate of Emilia. It is a square edifice, with a small dome, interaally decorated with stucco orna- ments little worthy of such a sepul- chre. On the vault of the cupola are four medallions of Virgil, Brunetto Latinl (the master of the poet). Can Grande della Scala, and Guido da Po- lenta, his protectors when in exile. On the walls are two Latin inscriptions, one in verse, recording the foundation by Bembo, the other the dedication of Cardinal Gonzaga to the " Poeta) sui temporis primo restitutori." Above the marble sarcophagus which contains the ashes of the poet is a bas-relief of his half-figure by Lombardi ; he is repre- sented sitting at his desk with his book ; surmounted by a crown of laurel with the motto Vlrtuti et honori. The inscription in Latin hexameters on the urn is supposed to have been written by himself. Below it, in a marble urn, is deposited a long history in Latin of the tomb, drawn up after the repairs by Card. Gonzaga, to which it is not ne- cessary to refer more particularly, as all the leading facts it records have been given above.* The visitors' book, until recently preserved here, has been removed to the public library ; one of the last entries being three very appro- priate lines from the ' Purgatorio,' written by Pius IX., in his visit to Ra- venna in 1857. The feelings with which this sepul- * Although it had been suspected that the remains of Dante no longer lay in the mauso- leum erected by Card, Valenti Gonzaga, it was only on the occasion of the great sexcentenary anniversary of the poet's birth, celebrated with such extraordinary enthusiasm throughout Italy on the 14th of May, 1865, that this suspicion was fully verified. In making some repairs on that occasion, by destroying a wall in the old chapel of Braccioforte annexed to the ch. of San Francesco, a wooden box was dis- covered, bearing a double inscription, stating that it contained the bones of the poet, removed here by the Friar Antonio de' Santi in Oct. 1677. On opening the box these inscriptions were fully verified in so far that it contained the nearly perfect skeleton of a man of Dante's age at the time of his death, and stature. It was subsequently ascertained that the urn in the mausoleum was empty, or only con- tained a few small bones, and which were wanting to complete the skeleton in the wooden box ; farther documentary evidence has been since pro- duced to prove that these were in all probability the remains of Dante, but no clue has been yet dis- covered as to the circumstances that caused the removal, although it is probable it arose from the fear of the friars to whose care these precious relics had been intrusted that the Florentines might one day have succeeded in getting back the remains of their great countryman, as they had attempted on three different occaiiions, and es- 2 c 2 mo Route 69a. — Udvinlia : Lotd Syroiti Sect. Vll chre was visited by three of the greatest names in modern literature deserve to be mentioned. Chateaubriand is said to have knelt bareheaded at the door before he entered ; Byron deposited on the tomb a copy of his works ; and .A.l~ fieri prostrated himself before it, and em- bodied his emotions in one of the finest sonnets in the Italian language : — *• gran padre Alighier, se dal del miri , Me tuo discepol iion indegno starmi, Dal cor traendo profondi sospiri, Prostrate innanzi a' tuoi funerei marmi," &c. Lord Byron's lines commemorating the tomb of the poet and the monu- mental column of Gaston de Foix will scarcely fail to suggest themselves to the reader : — " I canter by the spot each afternoon AVTiere perished in his fame the hero-boy Who lived too long for men, but died too soon For human vanity, the young De Foix I A broken pillar, not uncouthly hewn, But which neglect is hastening to destroy, Records Ravenna's carnage on its face, While weeds and ordure rankle round the base. •' I pass each day where Dante's bones are laid: A little cupola, more neat than solemn, Protects his dust, but reverence here is paid To the bard's tomb, and not the warrior's column : The time must come when both, alike decay'd The chieftain's trophy, and the poet's volume, Will sink where lie the songs and wars of earth. Before Pelides' death, or Homer's birth. •' With human blood that column was cemented, With human filth that column is defiled, As if the peasant's coarse contempt were vented To show his loathing of the spot he soil'd : Thus is the trophy used, and thus lamented Should ever be those bloodhounds, from whose wild Instinct of gore and glory earth has known Those sufferings Dante saw in hell alone." pecially in 1519, when they petitioned Leo X., himself a Florentine, in a document to which the great name of Michel Angelo was aflBxed, offering to erect a monument to the Divine Poet in his native town, with the following charac- teristic subcription : — " lo Michelagnolo schul- tore, il medessimo a vostra Santita, supplico of- ferendomi al divin poeta fare la sepultura nuova chon decente e in locho onerevole in questa citta." The bones of Dante were placed in Lombardo's urn in the mausoleum with great pomp and exultation, the poet being now con- sidered the symbol of an United Italy. The wooden box in which they were found has been removed to the public library. Near the tomb of Dante is the house occupied by Lord Byron, whose name and memory are almost as much asso- ciated with Ravenna as those of the great " Poet-Sire of Italy/' He de- clared himself more attached to Ra- venna than to any other place, except Greece ; he praised " its delightful cli- mate," and says he was never tired of his rides in the pine-forest ; he liked Ravenna, moreover, because it was out of the beaten track of travellers, and because he found the higher classes of its society well educated and liberal beyond what was usually the case in other continental cities. He resided in it rather more than two years, *' and quitted it v/ith the deepest regret, and with a presentiment that his departure would be the forerunner of a thousand evils. He was continually performing generous actions : many families owed to him the few prosperous days they ever enjoyed : his arrival was spoken of as a piece of public good fortune, and his departure as a public calamity.'* The house of Lord Byron now forms No. 295 in the Strada di Porta Sisi ; it was here that our great poet resided for 8 months after his arrival in Ra- venna on the 10th of June, 1819. Over the entrance has been recently placed the following inscription commemora- tive of the fact : — *' H x Giugno BiDCCCxix, come appena giunse in Ravenna, entrava questa casa, allora Grande Albergo, e que otto mese abitava, Giorgio Byron, Poeta In* glese, Lieto delle Vicinanze al Sepol- cro di Dante, Impaziente di visitare r Antica Selva, che inspiro gia il Divino e Giovanni Boccaccio.' He subsequently removed to the Palazzo Guiccioli, in the Via di Porta Adriana (No. 328), where he continued to re- side until his departure for Pisa at the end of Oct. 1821. The * Prophecy of Dante ' was composed here, at the sug- gestion of the Countess Guiccioli ; and the translation of the tale of* Francesca da Rimini' was " executed at Ravenna, where five centuries before, and in the very house in which the unfortunate lady was born, Dante's poem had been composed." The 'MorganteMaggiore,' * Marino Faliero,' the fifth canto of RoMAGNA. Route 69a. — Ravenna : Palaces ; Library, 581 Don Juan,' *Tlie Blues,' ' Sardana- palus,' ' The Two Foscari/ * Cain,* * Heaven and Earth,' and the * Vision of Judgment/ were also written during his residence at " that place Of old renown, once in the Adrian sea, Ravenna ! where from Dante's sacred tomb He had so oft, as many a verse declares, Drawn inspiration." Rogers. Palaces. — The Archbishop's Palace, near the cathedral, is one of the most interesting edifices in Ravenna to the Christian antiquary. The chapel, still used by the archbishops, is the one which was built and used by St. Peter Chrysologus in the 5th century, with- out alteration or change: no profan- ing hand has yet been laid on its altar or mosaics. The walls are covered with large slabs of marble, and the ceiling still retains its mosaics as fresh as when they were first executed. In the middle they represent the symbols of the Evangelists ; and below, arranged in circles, the Saviour, the Apostles, and various Saints. The altar has some mosaics which belonged to the tribune of the cathedral previous to its re-erec- tion. In one of the halls of the palace is a collection of ancient Roman and Christian inscriptions, with other frag- ments of antiquity. In the " Appart- amento Nobile " is a bust of Cardinal Capponi by Bernini, and one of S. Apollinaris by Thorwaldsen. On the 3rd floor is the small Archiepiscopal library, formerly celebrated for its re- cords; but most of these disappeared during the political calamities of the city. It still, however, retains the celebrated MS. on papyrus whose extraordinary size and preservation have made it known to most literary antiquaries: it is a brief of the 12th century, by which Pope Pascal II. confirmed the privileges of the archbishops. The most ancient diplomas preserved in these archives are said to date from the 5th century. Palazzo del Governo, in the Piazza Maggiore, a building of the 17th cen- tury, recently restored, contains nothing to interest the stranger. The portico is supported by 8 granite columns, on 4 of the capitals of which is the mono- grana of Thepdoric, Palazzo Comunale, in the same Piazza, was marble busts of 7 cardinal legates, and a portion of the gates of Pavia, captured from that city by the inhab. of Ravenna. The public archives formerly contained a large collection of historical documents^ but most of them have dis- appeared. Palazzo Cavalli, near the Theatre ; the P. Lovatelli, opposite the Torre Publico ; the P. Spreti, near Sta. Maria in Porto, &c., had all of them small galleries of paintings. The ceiling of the Pal. Giulio Rasponi (in the Via SS. Giov. e Paoli, near the Cathedral), representing the death of Camilla, queeu of the Volsci, by Agricola, is interesting because the figure of the queen is the portrait of Queen Caroline Murat, one of whose daughters married into the Rasponi family. The Galleria Rasponi, liberally open to visitors, has a few good pictures, amongst which may be noticed — Palmezzano, Christ on an altar with St. James of Compostello, and St. Sebastian, a fine figure ; Co^/ The Pineta is a vast succession of lovely avenues and glades, upon which you can drive for miles over the turf: in doing so, however, it will be ad- visable to have one of the keepers for guide, as they will point out all the picturesque spots ; they may be found at the ferry. La Colonna de* Francesi. Beyond the Porta Sisi, about 2 m. from Ra- venna, on the banks of the Ronco, is a square pillar erected in 1557 by Pietro Cesi, president of Roma- gna, as a memorial of the battle gained by the combined army of Louis XII. and the Duke of Ferrara over the troops of Julius II. and the King of Spain, April 11, 1512. Four in- scriptions on the medallions of the pilaster, and an equal number on the 4 sides of the pedestal, record the events of that memorable day. Lord Byron mentions the engagement and the column in a passage quoted in the description of the tomb of Dante, and commemorates the untimely fate of the heroic Gaston de Foix, who fell in the very moment of victory. "The monu- ment of such a terrible engagement, which left 20,000 men dead on the field, and made the Chevalier Bayard write from the spot, * If the king has gained the battle, the poor gentlemen have truly lost it,' is little funereal or military ; it is ornamented with ele- gant arabesques of vases, fruit, festoons, dolphins, and loaded with 8 long tauto- logical inscriptions, and one of them is a rather ridiculous jeu de mots. The speech that Guicciardini makes Gaston address to the soldiers on the banks of the Ronco is one of the most lauded of those pieces, diffuse imitations of the harangues of ancient historians. Be- sides the illustrious captains present at this battle, such as Vittorio and Fabrizio Colonna, the Marquis della Palude, the celebrated engineer Pedro Navarra, taken prisoners by the French, and Anne de Montmorency, yet a youth, afterwards constable of France under 4 kings, who began his long military career amid this triumph, several persons eminent in letters were there — Castiglione and Ariosto; Leo X., then Cardinal de' Medici, as .papal legate to the Spaniards, was taken prisoner. The bard of the Orlando, who has alluded to the horrible car- nage he witnessed, must have been powerfully impressed by it, to paint his battles with so much fire. In several passages of his poem Ariosto attributes the victory on this occasion to the skill and courage of the Duke of Ferrara. It has been stated that Alfonso, in reply to an observation that part of the French army was as much exposed to his artillery as the army of the allies, said to his gunners, in the heat of the conflict, * Fire away ! fear no mistake — they are all our enemies ! * Leo X. redeemed the Turkish horse which he rode on that day, and used it in the ceremony of his possesso (taking pos- session of the tiara at St. John La- teran), celebrated April 11, 1513, the EOMAGNA. Eoiite 70. — Venice to Eavenna, 589 anniversary of the battle. He had this horse carefully tended till it died, and permitted no one to mount it/' — Valenj. ROUTE 70. VENICE TO RAVENNA, BY THE CANALS AND COMACCHIO. POSTS. Venice to Chioggia, 20 m. Chioggia to Cavanella .... 2 Cavanella to Mesola 2 IMesola to Pomposa 2 Pomposa to Magnavacca .... 2 Magnavacca to Primaro .... 1 Primaro to Kavenna 2 11 posts = about 90 m. The traveller who is desirous of proceeding from Venice to Ravenna by the shortest route may do so by the canals which intersect the vast lagunes between the 2 cities. Although only a short portion of the route can be per- formed in a carriage, there is a series of stations from Chioggia to Ravenna, the route being estimated at 11 posts. A person having his own carriage must be prepared to run all risks of trans-shipment from the ferry-boats ; but a traveller not so encumbered will do well to rely on the canal-boats and on the carriages of the country, which he .will find at Mesola to convey him to Ravenna. Persons proceeding by this route will have a good opportunity of seeing the famous Murazze, or great sea-wall of Venice, as the boat must pass along it whether it follows the canal inside the island of Malamocco, or takes the outer or seaward route. The ordinary course, if in a gondola, is to proceed down the deeper channel of the Laguna, called the Malamocco canal, and from thence inside the long narrow island which lies beyond it: a steamer leaves Venice every day during the summer for Chioggia. Chioggia or Chiozza. This would be the best resting-place for the first night. The time occupied in rowing the dis- tance in a C-oared boat is about 6 hours ; it would, of course, be much shorter in a sailing one, with a fair wind. Chioggia is a well-built town, with a convenient port, much frequented by the small coasting vessels of the Adriatic. Its history and association with the naval achievements of Venice, recalling " the Doria's menace," so beautifully sung in * Childe Harold,' belong to the descrip- tion of that city, and need not be par- ticularised here. Leaving the town, we proceed to Brondolo, on the Brenta, and from thence by the Canal di Valle, which connects the latter river and the Adige, to Cavanella dell* Adige, ascend the Adige for 2 m., and then follow the Canal di Loreo to Cavanella di Fby on the 1. bank of that branch of the Po called the Po Grande, or della Maestra. The other branch farther S. is the Po di Goro, and between the point of bifurcation at Punta di Sta. Maria and the sea these two arms of the river enclose an island, called Isola d* Ariano, frequently subject to the destructive inundations of both its branches. On the northern shore of this island, and about 3 m. lower down, is Taglio del Pb, to which, if the island can be traversed, the traveller should proceed, and there leave his boat; other- wise he must ascend the northern branch of the Po, and make a tedious detour round the western angle of the island to Sta. Maria, near the town of Ariano; in either case he will arrive at Mesola, the frontier town of the North Italian kingdom. The difference of time occupied by these two modes is con- siderable: from Chioggia to Taglio the voyage, direct, occupies about 8 hours; from Taglio to Mesola, across the island, is little more than 1 hour: whereas the route from Chioggia to Mesola, going round by the Po and Sta. Maria, requires at least 14 hours. Mesola, on the rt. bank of the Pb di Goro. This should be made the sleeping- place on the second day ; there is a tolerable inn here ; and a country car- riage, quite good enough for the roads, 590 Route 70. — Venice to Ravenna. Sect. VII. may be hired for the next day's journey. Mesola has a population of 1917 souls: it appears to have been considered im- portant as a frontier town, since it is recorded" that it has been twice pur- chased of the House of Austria by the Church— by Pius VI., for a million of scudi, and by Leo XII., in 1822, for 467,000. The difficulty and expenses of keeping up the embankments of the canals and rivers in this part of Italy, which are admirably constructed and managed, as the traveller will not fail to observe during his journey, are said by the inhabitants to have made the acquisition an onerous one to the Papal government. There is an inte- resting ch. at Mesola, erected in 1071, once attached to a rich Benedictine abbey. The pavement of Opus Alex- andrinum, the spaces over the columns and the apse, formerly covered with mosaics, were subsequently painted by a certain Chegus, who has left his name on them: in the refectory, now the property of Count Guiccioli, are 3 good subjects — the best, Our Lord giv- ing his benediction, between a group of Saints —probably by Pletvo da Riniini^ although attributed to Giotto. Leaving Mesola, the road proceeds along the flat sandy tract to Fomposa, near the Vb di Volano, which is crossed by a ferry, and afterwards passes over the sandy strip which encloses on the E., separating from the sea, the shallow Lagune, or, as it is called, the ValU di Comacchio, to Magnavacca, W. of Mag- navacca is the town of Comacchio, with 8300 souls. The Lagunes of Co- macchio, similar to those of Venice in their mode of formation, occupy an extensive area of 170 sq. kilometres between the P6 di Volano on the N., and the Po Primaro or Reno on the S., separated from the sea by a long sandy spit which has only one communica- tion with it by the cut of Magnavacca. These Lagunes have from time imme- morial been celebrated for their fish- eries, consisting chiefly of eels and grey mullet : by means of a most inge- nious system the rivers which encircle them at a certain period of the year are allowed to flow in, and thus to introduce the young fry which ascend ' work. these streams from the sea; the fish are allowed to increase in size, and, as all exit is prevented by nets and sluices, at a particular time the fishing commences. The fishery employs a population of nearly 8000 persons, who are located about Comacchio, and produces about 800,000 lire ; the average production has been 1,800,000 lbs. annually. The fish is cured on the spot, and exported to every part of Italy. The contrivances for enticing the young fish, and for retaining the old returning to the sea, which are very ingenious, have been described by Tasso and Ariosto. " Come il pesce cola, dove impaluda Ne' seni di Comacchio 11 nostro mare, Fugge dair onde impetuosa e cruda, Cercando in placide acqiie, ove ripare. E vien, cbe da se stesso ei si rinchiuda In palustre prigion, ne pub tornare ; Che quel serraglio h con mirabil uso Sempre all' entrar aperto, all' uscir chiuso." Gerus, Lib. vii, 46, Ariosto calls Comacchio " La ciW^, che in mezzo alle piscose Paludi del Pb teme ambe le foci." OtI. Bur. iii. 41, 3. The town of Comacchio was for^ merly fortified, and occupied, in virtue of a stipulation in the Treaty of Vienna, by an Austrian force ; but the defences were destroyed in 1848. It is on an elongated island, having the Convent of the Capuccini at one end, and the remains of its citadel at the other. The depth of the Laguna varies from 3 to 6 feet. About 7 m. S. of Magnavacca the road crosses the southern branch of the Po, called the Pb di Primaro, at II Passo, the supposed Spineticum Ostium of the ancients, leaving on the 1. the town of Primaro and its small port, defended by the Torre Gregoriana. 1 m. beyond Primaro the Lamone is crossed, and we soon enter the northern extremity of the Pineta, described in the account of Ravenna, in the succeed* ing Route. After a drive of a few miles through this venerable forest, we enter Ravenna near the tomb of ^Pheodoric, by the Porta Serrata. The journey from Mesola to Ravenna will occupy about 10 hours, and be a fair day's ROMAGNA. Route 70. — Venice to Ravenna, 591 Ravenna, described in Rte. 69a. [A traveller, Dr. Fraser, ^vlio per- foj-med the journey from Kavenna to -Venice, gives the following account of his progress: — *' This route is not devoid of interest, althougli it is seldom fol- lowed. On leaving Ravenna, the road passes by the tomb of Theodoric, and soon after enters the Pineta. The deep silence of the forest is unbroken by the noise of the carriage, which now passes over the green turf, scarcely marked, and in some places not at all, by any track ; and the traveller soon feels that without the aid of a guide, or the instinct of the North American, his path would soon be lost. We were told that wild boars abound in the recesses of the forest ; but we saw no game, nor indeed any other living thing. After threading its mazes for 2 hours, we observed with regret a thinning of the trees, and gradually entered on the open country. An uninteresting drive brought us to Magnavacca, where, in addition to our own stock of provisions (for every per- son taking this route ought to carry a supply), we found the means of mak- ing a tolerable breakfast. We changed liorses and carriage at this place, by which we neither improved our vehicle nor the quality of the horses. We were now given to understand that no one would take a good carriage by this road, 60 that we had been deceived by the innkeeper at Ravenna, who had agreed to convey us to Mesola in his snug barouche ; whereas the one to which we were now transferred was somewhat ruder in construction than a tax-cart. We had, however, no alternative, and were given to understand that next day we should obtain a better carriage at Mesola, which we reached at sunset. We slept there, although our original intention was to make Ariano our rest- ing-place for the first night ; but the usual road was cut up by the late floods, and that which we were to follow so increased the distance, that the land- lord would not furnish us with horses that evening. As he had everything in his own hands, we submitted with as good grace as possible. Mesola is the frontier town of the Papal States, and consists of a large building, the residence I of tlie governor, apparently constructed so as to be turned into a fort if necessary, \ and a few straggling houses, all lying below the level of the river, which is here magnificently embanked. During ; this day's journey we crossed five streams by means of ferry-boats ; but the steepness of their banks, and the bad arrangements of the boats, convinced us that no English carriage could be safely ' transported without improved means. I On one occasion, indeed, our carriage, , from its impetus in descending, was I nearly thrown into the river, dragging ; the men and everything after it. If j this accident had happened, we should j have had our baggage destroyed, if not lost, and should have been compelled to proceed for some distance on foot. We started from Mesola the next morning at daybreak, and drove along the S. bank of the P5 di Goro, or P6 Piccolo, to the point opposite Vicolo, where we found numerous boatmen, and soon made an arrangement for our convey- ance to Chioggia. We were now dragged, as in a canal boat, by two men, up the Po to Sta. Maria in Ponto, without landing at Ariano. Before arriving at Sta. Maria we left the boat in order to avoid the tiresome navigation round the western point of the island. We reached Sta. Maria in this way, after a walk of a mile, while the boat did not arrive for 3 hours. Sta. Maria is the Austrian frontier station : we found the officers extremely civil and obliging, and were subjected to far less inconvenience than we had met with in many petty towns of the Papal States. The effects of the floods on this island of Ariano were still visible in the broken banks, and in the vast masses of shingle thrown up on various p»arts of the surface. The in- habitants were unable to leave their houses for 15 days during the great flood of November, 1839. On the arrival of our boat we proceeded on our voyage, passing through numerous ca- nals, and seldom encountering a lock, in consequence of the level character of the country. We crossed the branch of the Po called P5 Maestra, the Adige, and the Brenta, during the day ; but the only tow^js we passed were Cavanella di Po and Loreo. We arrived at 592 Route 1\~— Ravenna to Rimini, Sect. VII. Cliioggia at 8 in the evening, and our anxiety to reach Venice was so great that we immediately hired a boat, and landed in that city at 2 in the morning. We ought to have slept at Chioggia, as we suffered much from cold in passing the lagunes, and had but an imperfect view of the great wall, which is so well seen on this passage. Our route alto- gether, in spite of the drawbacks men- tioned, was far from being uninteresting ; the swamps, canals, and rivers were so imlike anything we had seen before, that we were amused by the novelty of the scene ; the time passed away plea- santly under the awning of the boat, or in walking along the banks of the canals, which the slow movement of our boat permitted ; we were struck by the simple manners of the peasantry, and still more by the extreme beauty of the women ; we were not annoyed by beg- gars ; we enjoyed a freedom unknown to travellers in a diligence ; and at the close of our journey we almost regretted that it was the only one, and the last of the kind."] Travellers will perceive from this that it is desirable to divide the journey into 3 days, sleeping at Mesola or Ariano on the first night, and at Chioggia on the second. They would thus reach Venice early on the third day. ROUTE 71. RAVENNA TO RIMINI, BY CERVIA. 4 J posts =35 m. This is a good road, although not supplied with post-horses. (The post- master at Ravenna will send a relay of horses to Cesenatico, or will convey travellers the whole way to Rimini with the same horses, by allowing a halt of two hours at the latter place.) It follows the shores of the Adriatic, but presents few objects of interest, and the sea is generally con- cealed by banks of sand. The first portion of this route, as far as S. Apollinare, has been described in the account of that basilica. After passing through the Pineta for several m., the road crosses the Savio at S. Saverio, and through Cervia, an epis- copal town of 2230 souls on the Adri- atic, in an u.nhealthy situation close to very extensive salt-works, upon which its prosperity depends. Farther S. is the town of Cesenatico, the ancient stat. of Ad JSfovaSf partly surrounded with walls, but presenting no object of any interest to detain the traveller. It is about half way between Ravenna and Rimini, and is therefore the usual rest- ing-place of the vetturini. (Inn clean, with good bed-rooms. — T. B., 1859.) Beyond this we pass some small torrents which have been erroneously supposed to be the Rubicon. Farther on, at the distance of 9 m. from Rimini, near San Martino, we cross a wooden bridge spanning the Uso, a con- siderable and rapid stream, descending to the sea from Sant* Arcangelo, and called by the people on the spot // Rahicone, The reasons for regarding this as the Rubicon, to the exclusion of the numerous streams whose pretensions to that distinction have been advocated by former travellers, will be stated at length in the next route. The present route falls into the high post-road at Celle shortly before it reaches the Marecchia, and Rimini is entered by the Bridge of Augustus. 35 m. Rimini (Rte. 72). EoMAGNA. Route 72. — Bologna to Bimini — Bnola. 593 ROUTE 72. BOLOGNA TO RIMINI, BY IMOLA, FAENZA, FORLI, AND CESENA, WITH EXCURSION TO SAN 3IARIN0. — BY RAIL. Ill kil. = 69 Eng. miles. Bologna to kil. Mirandola . .11 Forli. . . . 64 Quaderna . .11 Forlimpopoli . 72 CastelS.Pietro. 24 Cesena . . . 83 Imola ... 35 Savignano . 97 Castel Bolognese 42 Sant Arcangelo 101 Faenza . . .50 Rimini . . . 111 The rlwy. follows nearly the line of the post-road, and of the ancient Via JSmilia/'- which extended from Pia- cenza to Rimini. The country through which it runs is highly cultivated, being one of the most productive districts in Italy. It is traversed by numerous rivers descending from the Apennines, at the foot of the last spurs of which it runs, so that during the journey the traveller will have on one side hilly sub-Apennine region covered with trees * The Via ^Emilia, commenced by the Consul Marcus iEmilius Lepidus (b.c. an, 87), formed the continuation of the Via Flaminia towards Cisalpine Gaul. The principal stations, with their respective distances, were — Placentia (Piacenza) to M. p. Florentia (Firenzuola) .... xv. Fidentia (Borgo S. Donino) ... x. Parma (Parma) xv. Tannetum ( Taneto) vii. Regium Lepidi (Reggio) .... xr. Mutina (Modena) xvir. Forum (iallo-rum (nr. Castel Franco) virr. Bononia (Bologna) xvir. CZa^er?2a (Quaderna) x. Forum Cornelii (Imola) .... xiv. Faventia (Faenza) x. Forum Licit (Forlf) x. Forum Populii (Forlimpopoli) . . vir. Ca'sena (Cesena) a^ii. Ad Conjluentes (nr. Savignano) . . viir. Arijrpinum (Kipiini) , . , , , xn. and vines, and on the other the rich alluvial tract extending to the Po. Leaving Bologna, the line crosses the Savena and the Idice (Idex) torrents to 11 kil. Mirandola Siat. 6 kil. Quaderna Stat., the neighbour- ing village of S. Nicolo is supposed to stand on the ancient Claternum, a Mu- taiio on the Via ^Emilia, further on is 7 kil. Castel S. Pietro Stat., a fortified tow^n on the Silaro {Sila7ms), erected in the 13th centy. by the Bolognese. 7 kil. Imola Slat. {Inns : S. Marco, good ; i Tre Mori, kept by Lama, newly fitted up, clean, 1857). This town, on the Santerno, the ancient Vartrenus, occupies the site of Forum Cornelii. It is generally considered to have been founded by the Lombards. In the middle ages its position between Bologna and Romagna made it an important acquisition in the contests for power: it was successively held by the different chiefs who exercised their sway in the cities of central Italy, and was united to the States of the Church under Julius II. As Forum Cornelii, and one of the stations of the Emilian Way, it was a place of some importance ; it is mentioned by Cicero, and by Martial in his 3rd Ep.— " Si veneris unde requiret, iEmiliae dices de regione via^. Si quibus in terris, qua simus in urbe rogabit, Cornell referas me, licet, esse Foro." The present town, with a pop. of 9320, contains little to detain the traveller. Among its public establish- ments are the Hospital, a Theatre, and a small Public Library, containing a MS. Hebrew Bible on parchment, of the 1 3th century, much prized by Car- dinal Mezzofanti. The Cathedral, dedicated to S. Cas- sianus the Martyr, contains the bodies of that saint, and of St. Peter Chry- sologus, archbishop of Kavenna, who was born here about a.d. 400, Vas- sal va, the celebrated anatomist, was also born at Imola in 1666. The bish- opric dates from 422, in the ponti- ficate of Celestin I. ; S. Cornelius was its first bishop. Pius VII. was bishop of Imola at the period of his elevation to the pontificate in 1800, as well as the reigning pontiff, Pius IX., in 1847, 594 Eoute 72,^ — Faenza. Sect. VII. The works of Innocenzo da Imola must not be looked for in this hig native town ; the Palazzo Pubblico contained 2 of his paintings, but, as he lived almost entirely in Bologna, he probably found little patronage in the city of his birth. [At Riola, 11 m. frorn Imola, in a picturesque valley of the Apennines, are some ferruginous mineral springs frequented in July and August,] [A road leads from Imola to Ravenna, through Lugo, 5 posts (Rte. 68); but travellers will find a shorter and more convenient one from Castel Bolognese by rail to the city of the Exarchs. See Rtes. ^Q, 67, and 69a.] Leaving Imola, we pass the Santerno, the Vatrenus of Pliny, by a handsome modern bridge. Midway between, it and Faenza is 7 kil. Castel Bolognese Stat,, the place is so called from the for- tress built there by the Bolognese in 1380. In 1434 it was the scene of a decisive battle between the Florentines and the Milanese commanded by Pic- cinino, and the Florentines by Nicolo da Tolentino and Gattamelata. The army of the Florentines, amounting to 9000 men, was completely overthrown ; Tolentino, Orsini, and Astorre Manfredi lord of Faenza, were made prisoners, together with the entire army, with the exception of 1000 horse ; and what was more remarkable, only 4 were left dead on the field, and 30 wounded. The rly. to Ravenna branches off here. Beyond Castel Bolognese, the Senio {Smnius') is crossed. 8 kil. Faenza Stat. (Inn: La Co- rona or la Posta) occupies the site of the ancient Faventia, celebrated in the history of the civil wars for the victory of Sylla over the party of Carbo. It is on the Lamone (Anemo), and contains a population of 19,942 souls. It has several hand- some edifices, and is built in a quad- rangular form, divided by 4 principal streets which meet in the Piazza : it is surrounded by walls. Faenza is memo- rable in Italian history for its capture by the English condottiere, Sir John Hawkswood, then in the service of Gregory XI. : he entered the town March 29, 1376, ^nd delivered it up to a frightful military execution and pillage ; 4000 persons, says Sismondi, were put to death, and their property pillaged. Among the masters under v/hose sovereignty Faenza figures in the middle ages, the Pagani will not fail to suggest themselves to the reader of Dante. The poet, in the beautiful passage alluding to Machinardo Pagano under his armorial bearings, a lion azure on a field argent, says, in reply to the inquiry of Guido da Monte- feltro, " La citta di Lamone e dl Santerno Conduce il leoncel dal nido bianco, Clje muta parte dalla state al verno." Inf. xxvii. '• Lamone' s city and Santemo's range Under the Hon of the snowy lah', Inconstant partisan, that changeth sides, Or ever summer yields to winter's frost/* Gary's Tran^. The tradition that Faenza takes its name from Phaeton is thus alluded to by a modern poet : •• Ecco I'eccelsa Citta che prese nome di colui Chi si mal carreggib la via del sole K cadde in Val di Po." Count Carlo Fepoli's Eremo, canto 11. Faenza is supposed to have been one of the first Italian cities in modern times where the manufacture of earthenware was introduced; whence the adoption of the name faience for such pottery into the French language. The manufac- ture still exists, although it has been long surpassed by the productions ot Umbria and the north. Another branch of industry inherited by the inhabitants from their ancestors, and still flourish- ing, is the spinning and weaving of silk: the art is said to have been in- troduced into Faenza by 2 monks ou their return from India, who erected their spinning machine here in 1559. The Liceo, or College, contains some examples of Jacomone of Faenza, an imitator of Raphael, and the supposed painter of the cupola of S. Yitale at Ravenna. The Cathedral, dedicated to S. Cos- tantius, the first bishop of the see, a.d. 313, is remarkable for the picture of the Holy Family by Innocenzo da Imola, and for bas-reliefs representing events in the life of Sa^ Savino, by EOMAG^IA. Boute 12.~Faenza~Forli, 691 Benedetto da Afctjano, The Capuchin Convent outside the town has a good picture of the Virgin and St. John by Guido, which was removed in 1797 to the Louvre. Faenza has produced many painters of note. Among these Lanzi mentions Jacomone. It also claims the honour of being the birthplace of Torricelli, the celebrated natural phi- losopher and mathematician, the in- ventor of the barometer. Some of the churches of Faenza con- tain interesting objects of art: San Maglorio has a Madonna, attributed to Giorgione, but more probably by Giro- lamo da Treviso. In the ch, attached to the Orfanotrofio delle Femmine is a good picture by Palmezzano. In the sacristy of the ch. of the Servi are two good frescoes by Bertucci. In the Commenda, a church in the Borgo, is a fresco by Girolamo da Treviso, dated 1533, of the Virgin and Child, SS. Mary Magdalene and Catherine, with the Donatorio kneeling, a fine specimen of this rare master, and a remarkable work ; a bust of St. John the Bap- tist, by Donatello (1420), which for- merly belonged to the Knights of Malta, of great beauty and expression, is kept in the house of the priest adjoining. Among the public establishments of Faenza, the Hospital and Lunatic Asy- lum may engage the attention of, at least, the professional traveller. The Pinacotheca contains a few pic- tures by native artists, especially of the elder Bertuccio, among his few au- thentic works ; of Scaletta^ Ottaviano Pace, Palmezzano, &c. The Palazzo Comunale was formerly the palace of the Manfredis, lords of Faenza. Its middle window, now closed by an iron grating, is pointed out as the scene of one ♦ of those domestic atrocities which figure so frequently in the annals of Italian families during the middle ages, It recalls the fate of Galeotto Manfredi, killed by his wife Francesca Benti^ voglio, a jealous and injured woman, who, seeing that he was getting the advantage of the 4 assassins she had employed to murder him, leaped out of her bed, snatched a sword, and des- patched him herself, Montj has writteu a fine tragedy on Galeotto Manfredi, The window of the chamber that wit- nessed the murder is that alluded to; the marks of the blood are said to have disappeared within these few years under Italian whitewashing. Lorenzo de' Medici subsequently interested him- self in the fate of Francesca, kept im- prisoned by the inhabitants of Faenza, and obtained her release. The Zanclli Canal, so called from Signor Zanelli, by whom it was opened in 1782, connects Faenza with the Adriatic. It commences at the Porta Pia, and, after traversing the plain for 34 m., falls into the Po di Primaro at S. Alberto. The country around Faenza is not to be surpassed in richness and fertility : it was praised by Pliny, Varro, and Co- lumella, and is still the object of admir- ation to every agricultural traveller. [An excellent road leads from Faenza to Ravenna, distant about 22 m. (dili- gence in 3 hrs.) (Rte 67); and another across the Apennines to Florence, by Marradi and Borgo San Lorenzo. Dili- gence 3 times a week ; courier carriage daily. Rte. 64.] Leaving Faenza, the Lamone is crossed, and the rly. proceeds over the plain, passing the Montone (Aries or Vernex) before entering Forli, and which, uniting with the Ronco {Be- desis) near Ravenna, falls into the Adriatic soon afterwards. 14 kil. Forli Stat (Bin, La Posta, in the Corso, very fair ; ** good and moderate "— i?. B., May 1865). This city, situated at the foot of the Apen- nines, in a pleasant and fertile plain, watered by the Ronco and Mon- tone, is the capital of a province comprehending 541 sq. m., and 218,433 Inhab. The city itself contains a population of 17,000. It is built on the site of the Foritm . Livii founded by Livius Salinator after the defeat of Asdrubal on the banks of the Metaurus. During the middle ages it was a place of some importance as a free city, but at length fell into the hands of the Malatestas and the Orde- laffis. The latter, so well known in th^ 1..4th and 15th cents, as prinQSan, 75 Basagliaperiia, 44 j Basella, la, 264 ]3asilica of La Superga, 36 of S. Gaudenzio at Xovara, 46 of S. Marco, at Venice, description of, 361 of S. Petronio at Bologna, 535 of S. Apollinarc in Classe at Ravenna, 585 Bassano, city of, 364 Baths of Abano, 437 of Acqni, 77 of Battaglia, 438 • of Caldiero, J34 ■ of Castro Caro, 563 of La Porretta, 558 of Recoaro, 346 of Riola, 594 . of Trescorre, 262 of Yaldieri, 69 Battaglia, 368, 456, 4 j8 , baths at, 438 Battle of Arcole, 335 of Caldiero, 335 of Casalecchio, 557 of Cassano, 25 7 of Castel Bolognese, 594 of Ciistiglione, 282 of Curtatone, 256 of Custozza, 293, 320 of Dego, 78 of Fossalto, 513 of Loano, 92 of Lodi, 248 of Lonato, 282,288 BOLOGNA. Battle of Magenta, 48 of Marengo, 62 of S. Manino, 286 of Melegnano, 247 of Millesimo, 80 — - of Mondovi, 74, 76 of Mwntebello, 64 of Mortara, 53, 60 of Motenotte, 79 of No vara, 47 of Palestro, 44 of Pa via, 238 • of Ravenna, 564 of Solferino, 284, 286 of the Trebbia, 65 of Turin, 20, 44 of Vinaglio, 44 of Zappolmo, 484 Baveno, 148, 152 Bayard, anecdote of, 266 Beigioiso, 245 Balgirate, 149 B?llagio, 164, 166 Bellano, 164 Bellinzago, Stat., 61 Belluno, 441 Benacus, lake, 283 Bene, 74 Berceto, town, 474 Berengarius, Sacramentary of, 170 BergaraOj257. Views from, 2 5 8. Houses— Harlequin, 258. Pa- lazzo della Ragione or Nuovo — Town-ball — Statue of Tasso, 258. Cathedral, 259 Churches, 260. Library — Collections of paintings — Situation, 260. Castello — Neighbourhood of, 261 to Brescia, 263 * to Lecco and Como, 165 to the Lake Iseo, 258 * to Milan, 253, 283 Bergeggi, 94 Berico, Madonna di Monte, 345 Berici, hills, 336 Bernardo, Col di, 75 Bersesio, 70 Bsrtinoro, 563, 599 Beruviana, 132 Bevera torrent, 72 Bevilacqua, 436 Bia^nze, stat., 40 Bicocca, la, t68 Biella, railway to, 40 Biforca, la, 61 Binasco, 233 Bisagno torrent, 127 Bistagno, village, 78 Biume, 158 Blenso, 163 Boara, 440 Bogliasco, 284 Bogliase, 129 Bolca, Monte, 319 Bologna: — Inns, Situation, importance, and prosperity, 510, 513. Historical notice, | School of art, 514. Accademia I BOLOGNA, delle Belle Arti, 515. Pina- coteca,5i6. University, 520. Museums, 521. Observatory, 522. University library, 522. Botanic and Agrario Gardens, 523. Hospitals, 523. Churches, 525:— S. Barto- lommeo di Porta Ravegnana, 524; S.BartolommeodiReno, 525 ; S.Benedetto, 525 ; della Carita, 525 ; Cathedral, 523 ; Sta. Cecilia, 525 ; Celestini, 526 ; Corpus Domini, 526; S.Cristina, 526 ; S.Domenico, 526 ; S. Francesco, 529 ; S. Giacomo Maggiore, 529 ; S. Giorgio, 530; S. Giovanni in Monte, 531 ; S.Gregorio, 5j2 ; S. Leonardo, 532 ; Sta. Lucia, 532; Madonna del Baraccano, 5J2 ; Madonna di S. Colom- bano, 5 J 2 ; Madonna di Gal- liera, 53 ? ; Sta. Maria Mad- dalena, 533; Sta. Maria Mag- giore, 5 J3; Sta. Maria della Vita, 533 ; S. Martino Mag- giore, 534 ; I Mendicant!, 534; S. Paolo, 514; S. Pe- tronio, s>5':> S. Procolo, 5j8 ; S. Rocco, 539 ; Santissimo Salvatore, 539; Servi, 539; S. Stefano, 540 ; SS. Trinity, 541 ; SS. Vitale ed Agricola, 541. Piazza of S. Domenico, 529. Convent of S. Domenico, 529. Piazza Maggiore, 541. Fon- tana Pubbiica, 542. Palazzo Pubblico, 542. Palazzo del Podest^,543. Portico de'Ban- chi, 543. n Regis tro, 543. Private palaces, 543 - 546. Foro de' IMercanti, 547. Torre Asinelli, 547. Torre Gari- seada, 548. Biblioteca Comu- nale, 548. Archiginnassio, 548. Colleges, 549. Thea- tres, 549. Casino, 549. Ac- cademia Filarmonica, 549. Liceo Filarmonico, 549. Montagnuola, 550. Dogs, 553. Climate, 553. Dialect, 553. Character of the people, 553- Conveyances, 554. Plan for visiting, 554. Enviro72S.— Churches : Mi- sericordia, 550; Annunziata, 550; MadotmadiMezzaratta, 550; S. Michele in Bosco, 550; Madonna diS.Luca, 551; Scalzi, 553. Bagni di Mario, 550. Certosa, 552. Cemetery, 552. Portico degli Scalzi, 553. *Bologna to Ferrara, 507 to Florence by Pietra- mala, &c., 554. by La Porretta,&c., 557 * ■ to Modena, 509 to Ravenna by Jmola and Liigu, 564. INDEX. 609 BOLOGNA. Bologna by Medicina and Lu' go. 567. to Rimini, 59 j , by rail, 567. Boltiere, 289 Bolzanetto stat., 59 Bolzano, 442 Bomporto, 495 Bonasola, 132 Bondeno, 4C9 Bonferraro, 4J|> Bononia and Felsina, 51 j Books on Italy in e;eneral, I xxi. I Bordigbera, 90, 98 Borghetto, 132 on tbe Mincio, 320 di S. Spirito, 93 Boretto, 473 Borgo, at S. Marino, town, 604. Cavern at, 605 Lavezzaro stat., 61 di San Dalmazzo, 69 San Donino, 454 San Lorenzo, 561 di Panicale, 557 ' Ticino stat., 61 Vercelli stat., 40 Borgoforte, 47J, 490 Borgoue stat., 9 Borgorato, 77 Bormida, and valley of the, 62,78 Borromean Islands, 151 to Milan, 154 Bosco, 58 Botanic garden at Bologna, 523 at Genoa, 117 at Milan, 221 at Padua, 368 at Parma, 470 at Pavoli, 12 at Turin, J7 at Vercelli, 42 Bovisio, 166 Bozzolo, 255 Bra, 73 Bracco, pass of, 131 Brandizzo, 38 Braus, col di, 72 Breglio, 72 Brembana valley, 167 Brembo river, 167, 261, 289 Brendola, 336, 435 Breno, 257, 282 Brenta, river, 346, 369, 378, 435, 589 Brentella toiTent, 351 Brera Gallery at Milan, 213 BresccUo, 472 Brescia, stat., 265. Plan of, 267. Inns — Gates — Cap- ture by tbe Frencb, 265. Bayard, 266. Siege in 1849 — Roman remains — Antiqui- ties, 269. Museo Patrio, 270. Catbedrals, 271. Churches, 272. Palazzo della Loggia, 276. Broletto Library, 277. GalleriaTosi or Museo Civico, CANONICA. 278. Other galleries, 279. Palaces, 279. Citadel— Campo Santo— Plan for visit- ing. Conveyances, 281 *Brescia to Milan, 256 * to Bergamo, 263 , to Peschiera, 281 to Verona, railway, 281 to Lake of Iseo and Val Camonica, 264, 281 Brianza, la, 1C8 Bribano, 441 Bridge of Augustus at Rimini, 601 Brisighella, 561 Brissago, 153 Broletto at Bergamo, 260 at Brescia, 277 at Como, 161 at Milan, 211 at Monza, 169 Brondolo, 589 Broni, 65 Brouis, mountain of, 72 Bruguiera, 155 Brunetta Fort, la, ruins of, 8 Buco del Piombo, 166 Buffalora, 48 Buonaparte family, origin of, in Burano, Isola di, 431 Burgianico, 487 Busalla, stat. and tunnel, 58 Busseto, town, 454 Bussoleno stat., 9 Busto Arsizio, 155 Butrio, 444 Byron, Lord, at the tomb of Dante, 580. His residence at Ravenna, 580. On the Pineta, 588 c. Ca, la, 555 Ca de' Coppi, 49 j Cadenabbia, 163 Cadeo, 454 Cadibona pass, 80 CafFaggiolo, 556 Cairo, 79 Calcio, 257 Caldiero,. stat., baths of, 334. Battle at, 335 Calepio, castle of, 261 Calogne, 265 Caloizio, 167 Calvatone, 255 Cambiano stat., 55 Camerlata, railway from, to Milan, 168 Camnago, 166, 169 Camogli, village, 129 Camonica, Val di, 263 Campione, 284 Campo Formio, 443 Candia, 53 f-. Cannero, 153 Canobbio, 15 j Canonica, d' Adda, 289 CASTELPOGGIO. Canossa, 479 Canova, 347 Cantalupo, 77 Cantu, or Canturio, 168 Canzo, 166 Caorso, 472 Capanne, le, 559 Cape of the Lame Goat, 93 Capo Corvo, 135 di Sta. Croce, 92 delle Mele, 92, 99 di Noli, 94 di Vado, 94 Verde, 91 Caprasio, Monte, 9 (-arate, 169 Caravaggio, town, 249 Carbonate, 232 Carcare, 79 Carignano, principality of, 2 town, 66 Caritk, In-tituto della, 11 Carlo, San (Borromeo), colossal statue of, 150 Carmagnola stat., 67 Conte de, 67 Caronno, 231 Carrara, duchy of, 477 di St. Stefano, 438 Carriages for posting, classifi- cation of, in Piedmont, 5. Carrullouiagus, Roman stat,, 65 Carsaniga, 168 Carza torrent, 556, 561 Casaglia, pass of, 561 Casalbuttano, 250 Casal Ma'Tgiore, 471 Pusterlengo, 245, 249 Casale, city of, 51. Cathedral, 52. Churches, 52. Ancient edifices, 52 Casalecchio, 557 Casaletto Vaprio, 250 Casarsa stat., 443 Cascina de' Pecchi, 288 Case Brucclate, 603 Cassana, 490 Cassano Albese, 166 d'Adda, 257 Gassiano, 286 Cassine, 77 Casteggio, 64 Castel Alfieri, 56 Arquato, 454 Bolognese, 570 Ceriolo, 63 Franco, 348, 509 Gavone, 94 S. Giovanni, 65 Guelfo, town, 45^ di 8. Leo, 594 Maggiore, 507 Nuovo stat., 292 S. Pietro, 593 Castelbarco, 289 Castellani, 29 j Caste llaro, 60, 435 Castelleone, 250 Caste llucchio, 255 Caste Ipoggio, 475 1310 INDEX. CASTIGLIONE. Castiglione, and battle, 282 di Olona, 2? 2 Castro, 26? Caro baths, 563 Cstaiupo. 60 Cathedral of Acqui, 78 Al'oa, 73 Aibenga, 92 — - Aquileja, 444 Asti, 55 Belluno, 441 Bergamo, 259 Bologna, 523 Borgo San Donino, 455 Brescia, 271, 272 Gasale, 52 Cividale, 444 Como, 159 Conegliano, 443 Coni, 69 Cremona, 25 1 ■ Faenza, 594 Ferrara, 492 Forfi, 596 Fossano, 75 Genoa, 118 Imola, 593 Lodi, 247 Mantua, 3 29 • Milan, 183 • Modena, 480 ■ Mondovi, 76 Monza, 169 Murano, 429 — - Novara, 45 Padua, J55 Parma, 457 Pavia, 238 Piacenza, 448 Ravenna, 571 Eeggio, 478 Rimini, 602 Rovigo, 440 • Sarzana, 137 Savona, 94 Susa, 8 Torcello, 432 Tortona, 64 Treviso, 441 Turin, 20 Udine, 443 Venice, 381 Ventimiglia, 89 Vercelli, 40 • Verona, 305 Vicenza, 340 Cattolica, la, 603 Catullus, villa of, at Sermione, 282 Cava Carbon ara, 60 Tigozzi, 250 Cavalier Maggiore, 63 to Bra, Alba, and Ales- sandria, 58, 68 Cavallina, Val, 264 Cavanella delV Adige, 589 di P6, 589 Gavatigozzo, 245 Cavo Pamfilio, 507 Tassone, 507 COL. Cavour Canal, 38 Cavriaua, 286 Celle, 96, 592 Ceno river, 474 Centa river, 92 Centallo stat., 68 Cento, 508. Casa di Guercino, 508. Ciiiesa del R :sario, 488. Fair, 509 Pieve di, 509 Cerea, 455 Ceresone torrent, 351 Ceriale, 93 Cernobbio, 163, 169 Cerro stat., 57 Certosa of Bologna, 552 of Garegnano, 231 of Pnvia, 233 of Val Pesio, 69 Cervara, 129 Cervia, 568 Cervo, 92, 99 Cesano, 165 Cesena : — Palazzo Pubblico, library, 599. Sulphur-mines near, 600 Cesenatico, 592 Ceserano, 475 Ceva, marquisate of, 2 , town, 74 Cherasco, 74 Cherio torrent, 261, 262 Chiaravalle, abbey of, 246 Chiari, 257 Chiavari, 130 Chieri, 53 Chiero, valley of, 453 Chiese river, 282 Chioggia, 433, 434, 565. Ex- cursion to, 433 Chiusa, la, 9 Chivasso city, 39 Ciceroni, xviii Cigliano, 39 Cigognolo, 255 Cinque Terre, le, 133 Cireglio, 487 Cisa, pass of the Apennines, 474 Cisano, 167 Cittadella, 346 Cividale, 444 Classis, ancient town of, 587 Clastidium, ancient, 64 Claternum, 593 Climate of Bologna, 553 Genoa, 106 Mentone, 90 Turin, 20 ■ Venice, 370 Coccaglio, 257, 265 Codogno, 249, 256 Codroipo, town, 443 Cogoletto, 97 Coins current in Italj^, xix , tables of, xxxii-xxxiv Col, or Pass, dell' Abbetone,487 di Casaglia, 561 delle Cerese, 70 • de Cisa, 474 — — delle Finestre, 70 CROWN. Col di Giove, 58 di San Bartolomeo, 75 di San Vittorio, 75 di Tenda, 70 Cola, 283 Colico, 165 Collegno stat., 12 CoUecchio, 473 CoUina pass, 559 Collina di Torino, 20 Colognola, 335 Colonna, 163 Colontola, 442 Colornj, 472 (>olumbus, bu'thplacc of, 97 Comabbio lake, 156 Comacchio, 507, 590 Comerio, 156 Como : Inns, 157. Steamboats — Diligences — Situation — Trade, 158. Duomo, 159. Paintings — Monuments — Baptistery, 160. Broietto — Cburches"^ — Palaces — Thea- tre, 161. Port, 162. Como to Lecco, road from, 165 to Milan, 165, 168 lake, excursions on, 163 Compigno torrent, 561 Condove stat., 9 Conegliano, town, 443 Coni, 68 Cons t at) ti nus Pal£eologus, sword of, 25 Gordevole river, 441 Cormons, 444 Cornaro, Cater ina, 348 Corniglia, 133 Cornigliano, town, 98 Corsaglia, 76 Corsico, 53 Corte Maggiore, 454 Olona, 65, 245 Corticella, 507 Cor tile San Martino, 472 Corvo, Punta del, 135 Costiglio, 58 Cotignola, 564 Couriers, xviii Covigliajo, 555 Coviglia torrent, 474 Cozzo, S3 Crema, 250 Cremona, history of, 250. Ca- thedral, 251. Baptistery- Tower, 252. Campo Santo, 253. Churches, 253. Palaces, 254. Collection of pictures, 254. Sim Sigismondo, 255 Cremona to Brescia, 250 to Mantua, 250 * — to Milan, 249 to Parma, 471 to Pavia, 250 Crescentino, 51 Crescenzago, 288 Crospano, 347 Crespino, 561 Crostolo torrent, 473, 4*7^ Crowm, the iron, 171 INDEX. 611 CUCCIAGO. Cucciago, 1 68 Cunella valley, J19 Cuneo, or Coni, 68 Cunio castle, ruins of, 564 Currency, tables of, xxxii- xxxiv Curtatone, battle at, 256 Custom-houses, xi Custozza, battle of, 295,320. Cutigliaiio, village, 487 Cuzzano, J19 D. Dante, tomb of, 567 statue of, 298 Dego, and battle, 78 Deiva, ij!2 Dertona, ancient, 64 Dervio, 164 Desenzano, town, stat., 282 to the Promontory of Ser- mione, 282 Desio Stat., 169 Dessaix, death of, 6; Diano Calderina, 92 Castello, 92, 99 Marino, 91, 99 valley, 91 Dicomano, 562 Diligences, xvi Dockyard at Genoa, 108, 127 at V^enice, 399 Dogliani, 74 Dolce Acqua, castle, 90 Dolo Stat., s68, Domasso, 164 Domenico, San, tomb of, at Bologna, 526 Domestic architecture in Italy, xxvii Domo d'Ossola, 148 Dongo, 164 Dora-Baltea, 51 Dora-Riparia river, 19 Dossobuono stat., 320 Dovadola, 563 Doveria river, 148 • Duchies of Parma and Piacenza, 445 of Massa and Carrara, 477 of Modenn, 477 Duino, 444 E. I Edolo, 26 J, 281 i Egyptian Museum at Turiji, 29 I Ellero, the, 76 | Elsa river, 561 j Emilia, Via, 453, 478, 509, 593, i 6co i Enza torrent, 472, 478 Erba, 166 Erza, 262 Escarena river, 72 i Est«, castle of, 4J9 ; town, 439 ' FIVIZZANO. Este, house of, their patronage of art, 494 Euganean hills, 368, 435, 436, 4?7. 4?9. 548 Exarchs ot Ravenna, 569 Expenses of travelling, xvii F. Faenza : — Inns, history, Licco, cathedral, 594. Clmrthcs, Pinacoteca, Palazzo Comu- uale, 595 to Florence, 561 to Ravenna, 563 Fano. 605 Fariolo, 148 Farnese, family of, 447 Faventia, site of (Faenza), 594 Felizzano, stat., 57 Felsina (Bologna), 513 Feltre, 441 Fergusson, Mr., his -works on Architecture, xxvi. Ferrara, Council of, 500 Ferrara : — Inns, 493. Situa- tion and aspect, 493. Histo- rical notice, 493. School of art, 494. Plan of city, 492. Reformation at, 496 Churches : — Cathedral, 4.97 ; S. Andrea, 498 ; S. Benedetto, 498 ; Campo Santo, 499 ; Ca- puchins,499; Corpus i3om{ni, 499 ; S. Cristofero, 499 ; S. Domenico, 499 ; S. Francesco, 499 ; Gesu, 500 ; S. Giorgio, 500 ; Sta.Maria del Vado,5co; S. Paolo, 501 ; Theatins, 501. Castle, 501. Gallery of Pic- tures, 502. Palazzo del Ma- gistrato, 503. Studio Pub- blico, 503. Public Library, 503. Casa di Ariosto, 504. Palaces, 504. Piazza di Ari- osto, 504. Tasso's prison, 505. Theatre, 506. Citadel, 506. Canals, 507. Plan for visiting, 507. Ferrara to Bologna, by Rail, 507. by Cento, 508 • to Comacchio, 507 * — to Mantua, 490 * — to Modena, 493 '^ — to Padua, 493 Ferrera, 60 Filattiera, 474 Filigare, 555 Finalbergo, 94 Finale, 49 j , Borgo, 93 , Marina, 93 Fino, 165 Fiorenzuola, town, 454 Fistona, valley, 561 Fiumalbo, hamlet, -{87 Fiumicino, the, 600 Ffvizzano, 479 GALLERIES. Floods of the Adige, 293 Florence, 560 * — to Bologna, 554,557 * to Faenza, 561 to Forli, 562 Focc di Spezia, 132 Fognano, 561 Foligno, 554 Fontana fredda, 454 Fontano, 70 Fontebuona, 556 Fontenellato, 456 Forche, le, 562 Forli, historical notice, 595. Circus, public promenade, cathedral, 596. Churches,. 596. Pinacoteca, 597. Pa- lazzo "del Governo, citadel, historical associations, 598 * Forli to Florence, 562 to Ravenna, 563 Forlimpopoli, 599 Formigine, 486 Foniacci, 94 Fornaci, le, 289 Fornuovo, 474 Forte Urbano, 509 Forum Allieni, 493 Cornelii, 569 Gallorum, 509 Julii, 443 Licinii, 166 Livii, 595 - - — Popilii, 599 Fosdinovo, 475 Fossalto, battle of, 51J Fossano, 68, 75 Fracastoro, 299 Fraine, mount, 284 Framura, 132 Frugarolo stat., 58 Fusignano, 564 Futa, la, col or pass, ^SS G. Galla Placidia, mausoleum of at Ravenna, 578 Gaggiano, 53 Gajana stream, 567 Gajano lake, 264 Galeata, 562 Gallarate, 155 Galleries, public: at Bassano> 346. Bologna, 516 Brescia, 278, 279 Cremona, 254 Faenza, 595 Ferrara, 502 Forli, 597 Milan (Brera), 213 Modena, 484 Padua, 354 Parma, 466 llavenna, 582 Turin, 26 Venice, 422 Verona, 302 Vicenza, 343 612 INDEX. GALLIANO. Galliano, 169 Galiiera, 507 Gallinaria, island of, 92 Gamalero, 77 Garbagna, 61. Garda lake, 28 j, 429 , island, 28 j ■, village, 288 Garegnano, 2^1 Garessio, 75 Gargagnano, 318 Gargnano, 284 Garisenda tower, 548 Garlenda, 92 Gavirate, 156 Geminiani, 484 Genoa Teraiiniis, 98 Genoa, " la Superba," 99. Inns, 59,99. Cafes— Consuls — Steamers, 100. Diligences— Vetturini— Railway — Post- office— English Cb.— Bankers — Physicians, 105. Port regulations — Passports — Boatmen — Shops — Sedan- chairs — House - rent — Pro- visions ~ Climate, 106 ; Har- bour — Population — Manu- factures — Costume, 107. Streets — Piers— Lighthouse — Arsenal — Bagne — Navy — Porto Franco — Cus- tom-house — City walls, 108 ; Gates — Ramparts — Public Gardens — Fortifications — — Siege of— Garrison, 109; Description of the city — Pa- laces, no. Collections of paintings, in. University, 116. Cathedral, 1 1 8. Churches, 120. Buildings — Hospitals, 123 . Conservatorie — Thea- tres —Academy of Fine Arts — Public Library — Ducal Palace, 124. Land Arsenal — Exchange — Goldsmiths' Street, 125. Bank of San Giorgio, 1 26. Promenades, 127. Monument to Colum- bus, 127. Dockyards, 108, 127 *Genoa to Turin, 54 * to Nice, 86 to Alessandria, 105 to Milan, 105 to Novaro and Arona, 105 to Sarzana, 128 to Spezia, bj' sea, \iz * to Pavia and Milan, 232 Gera d' Adda, 250 ; torrent, 167 Ghiara d' Adda, 250 Ghisalba, 264 Giandola, 72 Giitana, 164 Godo, 565 Goito, 286 Golden Legend, 96 Gonzagas, history of, ?2J Gorgonzola, 288 Gorizia, 444 ISONZO. Gorlago, 261, 264 Governolo, 490 I Gozzano, 48 Gradlsca, 444 Gravedona, 164 Gravellona, 61, 148 Grazie, le, 255 Greghentino, 167 Grezzano village, 318 Grumello, 264, 289 Gualtieri, 473 Guastalla, 473 Guercino, birthplace, 508 Guglielmina, Beata, 162 Gulf of Spezia, 133 H. Handbook of Painting, xxiii of Architecture, xxvi Hannibal, his passage over the Apennines, 474 Hensius, King, captivity of, 513, 528, 543 Hobhouse, Sir John, onTasso's prison, 505, 506 Hydrophane, mineral, 11 I. Mice, the (Idex), 567, 593 Ilasi, valley and town, 3 34 Imola, public establishments and cathedral, 593 Impera, torrent, 75, 91 Incino, 166 Incisa, 60 Industria, the ancient, 51 Inns in general, xix Intra, 153 Inverigo, 166, 169 Iron Crown of Lombardy, 171 Isella, 148 Iseo, lake and town of, 261 to Brescia, 261 *to Bergamo, 261 Isiac table, 31 g Island of Ariano, 565 Bergeggi, 94 Burano, 431 Gallinaria, 92 Giudecca, 429 Lido, 428 Malamocco, 433 Mazorbo, 431 S. Michele, 431 Murano, 429 Palmaria, 135 Pelestrina, 434 • Tinetto, 135 Tino, 135 Torcello, 429, 431 Islands, Borromcan, 151 Isola Bella, 151 del Cantons stat., 58 \ Madre, 152 I di S. Giovanni, 152 i dei Piscatori, 151 1 Isonzo river, 444 LAVENO. Italian possessions on the Mediterranean — political changes, 8 1 . Character of the comitry, 81. Agriculture- Towns, 82. Roads, 82. Post- ing, &c. — Money — Weights and Measures, 83, 84. Clia- racter of the population, 84. Inns— Fine jArts, 85 Italy (North)— Passports and Custom-houses, x. Routes, xi. Modes of travelling — expenses, xv. Couriers, xviii. Laquais de Place and Cice- roni, xviii. Money, xix» Inns and accommodations, xix. Books upon, xxi. Maps of, xxiv. Objects to be no- ticed — Antiquities — Archi- tecture, XXV. Music, xxviii. Skeleton tours, xxx. Tables of currency, xxxii. Table of measures of distances, xxxv Ivrea, marquisate of, 2 , railway to, 39 J. Judrio, torrent, 444 Juliet, tomb of, 318 Julius II., birthplace, 95 K. Kugler's Handbook of Paint- ing, xxiii ; 514 L. Laigueglia, 92 Lake of Anone, 167 Alserio, 166 San Bartolommeo, 1 1 Comabbio, 156 Como, 158 Gajano, 264 Garda, 281, 283, 429 Gerondo, 250 Idro, 282, 287 Iseo, 261, 281 Madonna, 1 1 Maggiore, 150; to Milan ^ and steamers on the, 154 Monate, 156 Olginate, 167 Orta, 48 Pusiano, 167 Spinone, 264 Superiore, 256 Varese, 156 Lambro river, 167, 247 Lamone, the, 561, 590, 594, 595 Lancenigo, stat., 442 Laquais de place, xviii Lasnigo, 166 Latisana, 442 Lavagna, 131 Lavagnaro river, 131 Laveno, town, 153. Stat. 156 to Varese and Como, 155 INDEX. G13 LAVTNO. La vino river, 510 Lazise, 288 Lecco, 167 to Bergamo, 167 * to Como, 165 to Milan, 167 Legnago, 155. 4>6 Leira valley, 97 Lenno, 165 Lerici, 135 Lerone torrent, 92 Lessini, monte, 318 Levauto, 132 Libraries : at Bergamo, 260 ■ at Bologna, 522, 550 • at Brescia, 277 at Ceseua, 599 at Ferrara, 50J ■ ■ at Genoa, 116, 124 at Imola, 593 at San Lazzaro, 453 at Mantua, 331 at San Marino, 605 at Milan, 220, 221 at Modena, 486 at Pndua, 355, 356, 367 at Parma, 469 at Pavia, 244 at Ravenna, 581 at Regg-io, 479 at Rimini, 603 at Turin, 23, 32 of St. Marks atYenice, 389 at Vercelli, 40 • at Verona, 307 Lido, island and forts, 428, 433 Lima river, 487 Limustre torrent, 487 Limentra, the, 558, 559 Limito Stat., 257 Limone, 71, 284 Lingueglia, 92 Liuterno, 230 Livenza river, 442 Livorno stat., 39 Loano, 9} Locarno, 153 Lodi, 247 , battle of, 248 * to Milan, 245 ■ to Piacenza, 247 Lojano, 555 Lombard league, 56 Lombardy :— Passports— Post- ing— Money, i ?9. Weights — Measures — Territoiy, 141. Nature of the coimtry — Agri- culture — Productions, 142. Language— Fine arts, 146 Lomello, 60 Lonato, stat., and battle of, 282, 285 Longiano, 600 Lonigo, stat., 336 Lorenzo, 99 Ijorma, torrent, 441 Lovere, 251, 262. Description of, by Lady M. W. Montagu, 262 Lugo, village, 318 N, Italy— 1869. MARCARIA. Lugo, town, 541 Luinate, 156 Luino, 153 Lunigiana, province of, 136, 474 Lura, 155 Lura, river, 50 Lusignano, 92 Luzzara, 473 Macagno, 153 Maddalena, la, stat., 68 Maderuo, 284 Madonna del Bosco, sanctuary of, 58 di Ghifola, 166 della Guardia, 91 di Misericordia, sanctuary of, 95 del Monte of Yarese, sanc- tuary, 157 del Pilone, 36 di San Martino, 164 di Saronno, 231 di So viore, sanctuary of,i ?3 di Vico, sanctuary of, 76 Magadino, 154 Magenta, 48. Battle, 48 Maggiore, lake, 150 Magnavacca, 590 Magra, river, 132, 136, 474 Magreglio, 166 Majolica, la, 164 Malamocco island — village of —pass, 4? 3, 434. Canal, 589 Malgrate, 167 Malghera fort, 369 Malnate, 157 Malone torrent, 38 Malpaga, castle of, 263 Manarola, 133 Manerba, 284 Maiierbio, 245 Mantua,stat.and city, 320. Inns — Diligences, 323. Plan of the city, 321. Situation— History, 323. Sieges, 323,324. Build- ings: Castello di Corte, 327. Palazzo Imperials or Ducal Palace, 327. Plan of Ducal Palace, 326. Cathedral, 329. Churches, 329. Palaces, 330. Accademia — Scuole Pub- bliche, 331. Museo Anti- quario, 331. Ponte di San Giorgio, 331. Piazza Yir- giliana, 332. Palazzo del Tb, 332. Plan for visiting, 334. Mantua to Ferrara, 490 * to Milan, 249 * to Parma, 472 to Padua, 455 * — to Verona, 320 Mapello, 167 Maps of Italy, xxiv Marano, 369 Marazzino, 263 Marcaria, 255 MILAN. Marcello, San, 487 Marecchia river, 577 Marengo village, 62. Battle of, 62 Mariago, 166 Marignano, 247 Marinello, 480 Marolla, 134 Marostica, 346 Marquisate of Ceva, 2 Ivrea, 2 Saluzzo, 2 Susa, 2 Marradi, 561 Martesana, canal of, 289 Martignana, 472 Martinengo, 263 Martino, battle, 286 Mauro, J^'rate, cosinographer, 4JI Marzabotto, 557 Marzana,Roman remains at,3 19 Mas, 442 Maschere, le, 556 Massa Lombarda, 564 Matarana, 132 Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, 578 of Theodoric, 584 Mazorbo, island, 431 Measures of distance, xxxv Meda, 169 Mede, 60 Medicina, 567 Mela torrent, 269 Melegnano, 247 ; battles, 247 Melzo, stat., 257 Menaggio, 164 Mentone, 89 Mergozzo, lake, 148 Merula, river, 92 Mesola, 589 Mestre stat., 369, 441 Meyronne, 70 Mezzana Corti, 65 Mezzofanti, Card., 523 Mignenza, 474 Milan, city — Railway station — Inns, 50, 172. Vetturini — Post-ofiBce — Public con- veyances, 177. Physicians — Protestant Divine Service — Cafe's, Booksellers' shops, &c.— Population of— Foun- dation of — History of, 178. Roman remains, 178. Gates —Castello, 180. Arco della Pace, 181. Arena, 182. Du- omo, 183. Churches : — S. Alessandro. 195. S.Ambrogio, 191. S.An- tonio, 195. S. Bernardino. 195. S. Carlo Borromeo, 196. S. Celso, 196. S. Eutemia, 195. S. Eustorgio, 196. S. Fedcle, 198. S. Giorgio in Palazzo, 198. S. Giovanni in Conca, 198. S. Lorenzo, 198. S. Marco, 199. S. Maria del Carmine, 200. S. Maria 2 E 614 INDEX. MIZZANA. presso S. Celso, 200. S. Ma- ria delle Grazie, 201. S. Maria della Passione, 204. S. Mau- rizio Maggiore, 205. S. Na- zaro, 206. S. Paolo, 207. S. . Pietro in Gessate, 206. S. Satire, 207. S. yebastiaiio, 207. S. Sepolcro, 207. S. Simpliciano, 209. S.Stefano in Brolio, 208. S. Tomaso in terra mala, 209. S. Vittore al Corpo, 209. Public buildings : — Am- brosian library, 221. Arci- vescovado, 211. Botanic garden, 221. Brera, 21^. Pinacoteca, 213. Sculpture gallery, 220. Brera library, 220. Coperto de' Figini, 227. Observatory, 221. Ospedale Maggiore, 226. Ospizio Tri- vulzi, 226. Palazzo della Reale Corte, 209. Palazzo della Citta, or Broletto, 211. Piazza Borromeo, 227 ; della Fontana, 227 ; de' Mercanti, 212; de' Tribunali, 211. Museo Civico di Storia Natu- rale, 225. Lazzaretto, 226 Private buildings : — Pa- laces : Andriani, 227 ; Bor- romeo, 227 i Busea Serbel- loni, 227; Trivulzi, 228; Litta, 227 ; Pianca, 228 ; Ponti, 228; Melzi, 228; Vis- mara, 228; Marino, 227; Pozzi, 228 Theatres : — Arena, 181; Scala, 228 ; Canobiana — Car- cano — R^ — Filodrammatico —La Fiando, 229 Public garden, 229. Ca- sinos (club-houses), 230. Gal- leria di Cristoferis, 2 30. Plan for visiting, 230. Environs, 230 *Milan to Turin, 39, 50 * to Como, 168 * — to Monza, 168 to Varese by Saronno, 230 to Genoa, 232 to Pa via, 232 to Piacenza, 248 to Lodi and Piacenza, 245 to Cremona and Mantua, 245, 249 to Peschiera, 256 to Venice, 256 to Bergamo, 256, 288 to Brescia, 256 Military architecture in Italy, xxvii Millesimo, battle at, 80 Mincio, battle of, 256 river, 283, 284, 490 Minusio, 154 Miradolo, 245 Mirandola, 593 Misano, 557 Mizzana, 490 MONTE. Modena, duchy of — Agricul- ture, commerce, finances- Posting — Money, 477 Modena, city — Cathedral, 480. _ Plan of the city, 481. Sec- " chia Rapita, 484. Churches, 484. Palace, 484. Gallery, 484. Library, 486 to Pistoia, 486 to Ferrara, 493 to Bologna, 509 to Parma, 478 Modigliana, 562 Mogliano, stat., 441 Moltrasio, 163 Mombello, villa at, 165 Monaco, stat., 89 town, 89 Monate, lake, 156 Moncalieri, 54 Mondovi, 76 , battle of, 76 Moneglia, 132 Money, xix in Piedmont, 6 in Riviera, 83 in Lombardy, 139 in Austrian Italy, 291 in Parma, 446 in Modena, 477 in la Romagna, 490 Money ^ Tables of\ xxxii Montalcone, 444. Excursion from, to Aquileia, 444 Monforte, 335 Monisterolo, 289 Monselice, 438, 439 Montagnana, 436 Montalegro, sanctuary, 130 Montebello, battles of, 64 , village, and stat, 336 Montecchio, castles of, J36, 478 Montecucullo, 487 Monte Appio, 90 Baldo, 282 Belluno, 441 Beni, 555 Berico, 345 Bolca, 319 Calvo, 78 Caprasio, 9 Cardo, 558 Carelli, 555 Cero, 439 Chiaro, 282 Crecione, 1 64 Cimone, 487 del Diavolo, 319 di Fo, 555 Fraine, 284 Galdo,:35i Generoso, 163 Girone, 475 Guardia, 510, 552 Legnone, 164 Lungo, 474 Moria, 453 Motterone, 149 Musino, II MUSIC. Monte Orfano, 265 to Ovolo, 558 Pirchiriano, 9 Priuzera, 474 Rovinazzo, 453 Senario, convent of, 533 Stregone, 78 Trebbio, pass of, 562 Viso, 55, 71 Zago, 454 Monteforte, 319 Montemore, 80 Montenotte, pass and battle of. 79 Monterosso, 133 Monteu Po, 51 Montezzemolo, 80 Montferrat, duchy of, 2 Monti Lessini, excursions on, 318 Monticelli, 438, 472 Montone river, 562, 595 Montorfano, 166, 265 Montorio, 334 Montorobbio, 168 Monza, stat. — city, 169. Town- hall — Cathedral, 169. Relics, 176. Ivory diptychs — iron Crown — Bas-reliefs, 171. Palace and gardens, 172 *Monza to Como, 168 * — to Lecco, 167 to Milan, 172 Monzarabano, 285 Mordano, 564 Mortara, town and battle of, 53,60 Mosaics, xxviii Motta, town, 442 S. Damiani. , 245 Motterone, Monte, view from, 149 Mozzate, 232 Mozzecane, stat., 320 Mozzonica, 257 Mugello, the, 556, 561 Mugnone, the, 561 Municipal buildings in Lom- bardy, xxvii Murano island, 429 Murazze, the, 4? 5. 589 Museums : at Bassano, 346 Battaglia, 4? 8 Bologna, 521 Brescia, 270, 278 Genoa, 116 Mantua, 331 Milan, 220, 226 Modena, 484 Padua, 354, 367 Parma, 469 Pavia, 243 Ravenna, 582 Reggio, 479 Turin, 29, 31 Venice, 406 Verona, 304 Vicenza, 343 Musiano, 555 Music, xxviii INDEX. 61i MUSINO. Musino, Monte, ii Miu^occo. 50 Muzza, canal, 247 N. Nabresina, 444 Naviglio Grande, 48 di Pavia, 233 Nervi, 128 Nesso, i6j Nice, 86. Inns, ' 86. Plan of the town, 87. Physicians — Apothecaries, 89 Nice to Genoa, 86 ; by sea, 86 , county of, 2 Nicholas V., birthplace of, 137 Nizza di Monferrato, 60 Nogara, 435 Noli, 94 Noncello torrent, 443 Nosedo, San G. di, church of, 246 No vara, 45. Cathedral, 45. Baptistery, 45. Churches, 46. Buildings, &c., 47. Battle of, 47 Novara to Arena by rly., 61 to ]\[ilan, 48 * to Alessandria, 62 to GozzaTio and Orta, 48 Novalesa abbey, 9 Novi, Stat., town, 58 Nura river, 452, 453 Observatory at Bologna, 522 Milan, 221 Padua, 367 Parma, 470 Turin, 26 Oderzo, village, 442 Ogebbio, 153 Oglio river, 250, 255, 256, 262, 263, 264 Oleggio, Stat., 61 Olegno, 61 Olevano, 60 Olgiasco, 164 Olgiate, 157 Olginate, lake of, 167 Olmenetta, 245 Olona river, 50, 155, 232 Oltro Po Pavese, 2 Ombrone di Pistoia, river, 487. Valley, 559 Oneglia, 91 • to Turin, 75 Ontagnano, 442 Oreo river, 38 Ormea, 75 Ornavasso, 148 Orrido di Tinazzo, torrent, 263 Oslo, 289 Osoppo, 443 Ospedaletto, stat., 265 Ospetaletto, 436 Ostiglia, 490 Oviglio, 60 P. Padua, stat., 351 Padua, city:- Inns-Caf^s, 351. Antiquities, 351. Plan of the city, 350. Palazzo della Ra- gione, 352. Archives, 354. Pinacoteca, 354. Museum, 354. Municipal library, 3^^. Clocks, 355. Cathedral, 355. Baptistery, 356. Biblioteca Capitolare, 356. Palazzo Vescovile, 356. Churches, 356. Prato della Valle, 360. Arena, 360. Giotto's Chapel, or Santa Maria dell' Arena, 361. S. Agostino degli Ere- mitani, 364. University, 366. Botanic garden, ?67. Public library, 367. Observatory, 367. Palaces, 367. Thea- tres, 368. Hospitals, 368. Plan for visiting, 368. Ex- cursions from, 368 Padua to Ferrara, 493 to the Po, 436. to Venice, 368 * — to Vicenza, 351 Palazzuolo, 264 Pales tro, battle of, 44 Palladio's buildings, 339 Pallanza, 152 Pallavicino, state of, 454 Palma Nova, fortress of, 443 Palmaria, island of, 135 Panaro river, 490, 493 Panfilio canal, 485 Pania, la, peaks of, 559 Pantena, Val, 319 Parabiago, 155 Parasina, fate of, 501 Parma, 457. History— Plan for visiting, 457. Cathe- dral, 457. Plan of the city, 449. Baptistery, 462. Churches: San Giovanni, 463. Steccata, 464. Sant' Ales- sandro, 465. San Lodovico, 465. The Annunziata, 466. Farnese Palace, 466. Aca- demy of Fine Arts, 466. Pina- coteca, 469. Library, 469. Museum, 469. University, 470. Tipografia del Governo, 470. Theatre, 470. Botanic garden, 470. Pal. del Giar- dino, 471. Giardino Ducale, 471 Parma and Piacenza, duchies of, 445. Government, 445. Nature of the country— inha- bitants — trade — produce — money, 446 ♦Parma to Cremona, 471 to Mantua, 472 to Lucca, 473 PIETRAMALA. Parma to Reggioand Modcna, 478 to Sarzana and Lucca, 473 * to Piacenza, 446 torrent, 457, 470 Parmesan cheese, production of, 248 Parola, 455 Passes of the Apennines (see Cols) Passian Schiavonesco, 443 Passo, il, 590 Passports, x Pastrengo, 288 Paullo, 486 Pavia, Certosa of, 233. Stat., Castle of, 238. City of — Ca- thedral, 238. Plan of the city, 239. Churches, 241. University, 243. Colleges, 244. Insalubrity of, 244. *Pavia to Milan, 232 to Genoa, 244 , Naviglio di, 232 Pegli, villas at, 97 Pelestrina, 434 Peninsula of Sermione, 282 Perinaldo, 90, 98 Pesavo, 603 Peschiera, stat., 287. Austrian Gov. steamers at, 287 to Verona, 292 in Lake of Iseo, 261 Pesio, valley, 69 Pessione stat,, $s Petiglio, 487 Piacenza, Inns, 66, 446. Ob- jects worthy of notice, 446. Railways and diligences, 447. Piazza'de' Cavalli, 447. Ca- thedral, 448. Churches, 449. Citadel— Castello — Palaces — — Charitable Institutions, 452. Neighbourhood of, 452. Excursion from, to Velleia, 452. , duchy of, 445 * to Turin, 62 to Parma, 446 Piadena, 235 Plan d'Erba, 166 di S. Prime, 166 Pianoro, 555 Piantogna, 457 Pianzano, stat., 44? Piastre, hamlet, 487 Piave valley, 442. River and stat., 442 Picinardi villa, 255 Piedmont: Territory— Govern- ment, I. Nature of the country — extent — popula- tion — manufactures, 3. Lan- guage—fine arts— literature, 4. Posting, 5. Railways — money— weights and mea- sures, 6 Fieri s, 444 Pietole, 2?6 Pietramala, S55 616 INDEX. PIE YE. Pieve, "75 Albignola, 60 di Cento, 509 Pelago, 487 San Stelano, 579 Pineta, the, near J^avenna, 587 Pino, 5J Pirchiriano, Monte, 9 Pisciatello, the, 576 Pisogne, 263 Pistoia, 554 Piteccio, 559 Pizzighettone, 245, 250 Po, the, 19, 51, 249, 440, 490 di Goro, 589 Grande, 589 ■ Maestre, 591 Vecchio, 472 di Primaro, 485, 590 Po di Voiano, 507, 590 Poggio Renatico, 507 Pojana stat., 351 Polcevera river, 97 Polenta, village, 599 Polesella di Rovigo, 440 Polla, submarine freshwater spring, 134 PoUenzo, the ancient Pollentia, , ''^ Pomposa, 590 Pontassieve, 562 Ponte di Brenta, stat., 368 della Castellina, 563 Curone, 64 Decimo, 59 di Lago Scuro, 440, 471 San Marco, stat., 282 di Nava, 75 Nura, 453 Petri, 487 SanPietro, 167 di Veja, 318, 319 della Venturina, 559 Pontremoli, 474 Ponzana stat., 45 Pordenone, town and stat., 443 Porlezza, 164 Porretta, la, and waters of, 558 Portalbera, ferry of, 65 Port of Como, 162 of Chioggia, 433 of Genoa, 107 of Malamocco, 4J4 of Primaro, 590 of Ravenna, 584 of Rimini, 603 of Sermione, 282 of Venice, 380 Portico, 562 Porto, 153 Porto Fino, 129 Maurizio, 91 Secco, 453 • Venere, 134 Portoguaro, 442 Portone, 475 Portor marble, i?5 Possagno, birthplace of Canova, 347 Pozzolengo, 286 MANTUA. Pra, 97 Pracchia stat., 487 , Monte, pass and tunnel, 559 Pratolino, 556 Predore, 262 Preganziol, stat., 441 Primaro, 590 Primosello, 148 Pugliasca, 132 Puliciano, 561 Punta Bianca, 13? delle Chiappe, 129 del Corvo, 135 di S. Vigilio, 288 Purga di Boica, ^9 Pusiano lake, 167 Q. Quaderna stream,'567 stat., 593 Quarto and Quinto villages, near Genoa, 128 Quarto Cagnino, 230 Querazza river, 73 Querciolano, 562 Quinto village, near Verona, 318 R. Racconigi stat. and palace, 67 Railways open, xvi, 6, 292, 490 Susa to Turin, 7 Turin to Genoa, 54 Turin to Ivrea, 39 Turin to Biella, 40 Turin to Milan through Alessandria as far as Mor- . tara, 54, 6t Turin to Milan by Vercelli and No vara, 38 Turin to Pinerolo, 18 Between Alessandria and the Lago Maggiore by Mor- tara, and thence to No- vara and Arona, 56, 58, 60 Turin andCuneo, 18, 66 *Genoa to Turin, 54 ♦Genoa to Alessandria, 54 Turin to Alessandria, 59 Genoa to Voltri, 97, 100 Varese to Milan, 156 Como to Monza and Milan, 168 *Milan toMonzaandComo,i68 *Mortara, through Alessan- dria and Novi, to Genoa, 54 Milan to Brescia and Venice, 256; and at the other ex- tremity, Coccaglio to Bres- cia, Verona, Padua, and Venice, 265, 281, 354 Novara to Gozzano andOrta, 48 Milan to Venice, 256 Verona to Mantua, 3 20 *Mantua to Verona, 320 RIALTO. Brescia to Verona, 281 Verona to Vicenza, 334 Vicenza to Padua, 351 Padua to Venice, 368 Venice to Trieste, Treviso, Pordenone, and Casarsa, 440 Piacenza to Parma, 446 Ferrara to Bologna, 507 Modena to Bologna, 509 Bologna to Ravenna, 567 Bologna to Florence, 557 Rapallo, 129 Rastigniano, 555 Ravenna :— Inns, 567. Plan of the city, 566. Historical notice, 568. Plan for visit- ing, 570. Churches :— Sta. Agata, 572; S. ApoUinare Nuovo, 572 ; Baptistery, 571 ; Cathedral, 571 ; Sta. Croce, 573 ; S. Domenico, 573 ; S. Francesco, 57 j ; S. Giovanni Battista, 574; S. Giovanni Evangelista, 574; Sta. Maria inCosmedin, 575; Sta. Maria in Porto, 575 ; S. Nicolo, 575 ; S. Romualdo, 551; Santo Spirito, 576; S. Vitale, 576 Mausoleum of Gal la Pla- cidia, 578. Palace of Theo- doric, 578, Tomb of Dante, 579. House of Lord Byron, 580. Palaces, 581. Library, 581. Museum, 582. Aca- demy of the Fine Arts, 582. Hospital, 583. Theatre, 583. Piazze, 583. Torre del Pubblico, 583. Gates, 583. Fortress, 584. Port, 584. Environs .-—Mausoleum of Theodoric, 584. Sta. Maria in Porto Fuori, 585. S. Apol- linare in Ciasse, 585. Pineta, 587. Colonna de' Francesi and battle of Ravenna, 588 *Ravenna to Faenza, 563 * to Forl\, 563 * to Venice, 589 * to Bologna, 564, 567 to Rimini, 592 Razotta torrent, 538 Recco, 129. Torrent, 132 Recoaro, baths of, 346 Reformers at Ferrara, 496 Reggio, city, 478 Remo, St., town, 90 Renaissance style, xxvii Reno, river, 485, 508, 509, 510, 558— valley, 558 Resegone di Lecco, mountain, 167 Retrone torrent, 339 Revere, 490 Rezzano, 453 Rezzato, stat., 282 Rezzonico, 164; villa, 347 Rho, 50, 155 Rialto at Venice, 404. Bridge, 404 INDEX. 617 RIGOSSA. Rigossa river, 600 Rimini :— Historical notice, 601 . Arch of Augustus, 601. Ca- thedral, 602. Churches, pa- laces, 602. Port, fortress, library, house of Francesca da Rimini, 6oi. *Rimim to Ravenna, 592. * to Bologna, 593 Rio Grande, 456 Rio Maggiore, 133 Riola Stat., 558 ; mineral springs at, 594 Ritorto stream, 167 Riva di Chieri, 54 on Lake of Garda, steam- ers to and from, 284 di Taggia, 91 Rivarolo, stat., 59 Riviera, palace, Rivoli, in Piedmont, 1 1 , plateau and battle of, 288 Robarello, village, 157 Robecco, 245 Robillante, 71 Rocca di Fontenellato, 456 San Casciano, 562 Roccia Melone, Monte di, 9 Rochetta di Tanaro, 56 Rogoredo, 247 Romagna, la, 489. History, 489. TeiTitorial divisions— Money — Railroads, 490 Romano, 347 Romeo and Juliet, story of, 317 Ronca, valley of, 319 Roncaglia, 472 Ronchi, 444 Ronco Stat., 58 village, 335 —— river, 562, 563, 595, 599 Rosminians, monastery of, ii Rosta Stat., 11 Rotonda Capra, the, of Palladio, M5 Rottofreno stat., 65 Routes, xi. Rovacchia Codura, 455 Rovato, 265 Rover bella stat., 320 Roveglia, 74 Rovere, 563 Rovigo, city, 440 Roya, torrent, 72, 90 Rubicon, the, or Uso river, 592, 600, 601 Rubiera, 480 Ruso, 567 Russi, 565 Ruta, tunnel of, 129 Sacchi, B., birthplace, 255 Sacca, 472 Sacile, town, 443 Sagra di San Michele, 10 Sagrado, 446 SAN RUFILLO. I Sagro Monte di Varese, 156 j Sailletto, 473 I Sala, i6i Sale, 263 Saletto, 4j6 Salmour, 74 Salo, 284, 287 Salto della Bella. Alda, 10 Saluggia, stat., 39 Saluzzo, marquisate of, 2 Sambonifacio, stat., 325 Samoggia, 509 Sannazzaro, 60 San Benedetto, 132, 539 San Bernardo, valley of, 96 San Biagio, island, 284 San Cassiano, 287 San Dalmazzo, village and abbey of, 70, 71 San Damiano, stat., 55 San Daniele, 443 San Donino, Borgo, 454 San Fedele, 92 San Frutuoso, 129 San Germano, stat., 40 San Giorgio, 319, 442, 452, 507, 509 San Giorio, 9 San Giovanni Ilarione, 319 San Giovanni Manzano, 444 San Giuliano stat., 63 San Giulietta stat., 65 San Godenzo, river and village, 562 Sanguinetto, 435 San Lazzaro, 453, 478 San Leo, 603 San Lorenzo, 91, 255 della Costa, 1 29 de' Picinardi, 255 San Marcello, 487 San Marco, island, 403 San Marino, republic of, 604. Its constitution, 604. Ham- let of Borgo, 605. Origin and history of the republic, 605 San Martino, 48, 65 village and battle, 286 d' Albaro, 128 deir Argine, 255 • di Lantosca, 69 stat., 334 San Mauro, 89 San Michele, monastery of, 10. Village near Verona, 334. Island, 431 San Nazzaro, S3, 493 San Nicolo, 593 , stat., 65 San Pier d'Arena, 59, 98 San Piero, village, 561 San Pietro In Bagno, 600 in Casale, 507 in Cariano, 319 in Volta, 434 San Polo, 452 San Primo,erratic blocks at, 166 San Prospero, 478 San Remo, 90 Sau Ruiillo, $$$ SERIATE. San Salvatore di Lugano, 157 San Saverio, 592 San Stefano, 249 San Tomaso in Limine, church of, 261 San Valentino, 444 San Vigilio point, 288 San Vito, 442 Sant' Ambrogio, 11, 318 , ch. at Milan, 191 , near Verona, 318 stat., II Sant' Anna, village, 3^9 Sant' Antonino, stat., 9 Sant' Antonio di Rinverso, n Sant' Arcangelo, 600 Santa Bianca, 493 Santa Croce, 136 Santa Eufemia, 561 Santa Giulietta stat., 65 Sant' Ilario, 478 Santa Lucia, near Verona, 320 Santa Margherita, 129 Santa Maria Maddalena, 440 Santa Maria della Stella, sanc- tuary of, 318 Santa Sofia, 562 Santerno, the, 564, 567, 594 Santhia, stat., 40 Sanzan, 41 Saorgio, town of, 70, 72 Sarmato, stat., 65 Sarnico, 264 Saronno, 231 Sartirana stat., 60 Sarzana, city, 136 ; stat., 475, 479 * to Genoa, 128 Sarzanetta, 137 Sassalbo Pass, 479 Sasso, village, 557 , il, pass of, 557 di Castro, mount of, 555 Savena river, 555, 593 Savigliano stat., 68 Savignano, 600 castle, ruins of, 558 Savio, the, 592, 599 Savona, city of, 94 * to Turin, 80 * to Alessandria, 77 Savoy, dukes of, 2 Scaligers, history of, 300 , tombs of the, 3cxd Scarena, 72 Schio, town of, 344 Scoltenna river, 487 Scrivia river, 58 Sculpture in Italy, Lombar- dy, and Tuscany, xxvii Sdobba, river, 444 Secchia Rapita, la, 484, 513 river, 480 Secugnago, 249 Sele, the, 433 Sella torrent, 558 Senio, the, 564, 594 Seregno, stat., 169 Seriana, val, 263 Seriate, village of, 264 618 INDEX. SERIO. Serio river, 250, 257, 263, 266 Sermide, 490 Seiinioiie, 282 Serraglio, 256 Serragliolo, 49J Serravalle, stat., 58 town, 604 valley, 443 Sesia river, 44 Sesto Calende, 155 to Milan, 155 Sesto, stat,, 172 Sestri di Ponente, 98 di Levante, rji to La Spezia, coast-road, Setra, valley and torrent, 557 Sette Commune, district of, 346 Settimo, 38 Severe torrent, 169 Sezze stat., 77 Shakspeare and Verona, 317 Sieve valley, 356, 361 Sight-seeing, xviii Silaro, the, 59J Silk, production of, in Lorn- bardy 145 Simplon, Italian frontier on the, to Arona, 148 SinigagUa, 603 Siviano, 262 Soarza, 454 Soave town, 319, 33$ Solarolo, 567 Solero stat., 56 Solferino, 284, 286 , battle, 285 Somma, village, 155 Cam.pagna stat., 293 Sorbolo, 472 Soresina, 250 Sori, 129 Sospello, 72 Sotto Marina, town, 434 ; island, 4H Spezia, gulf of, 133 ; town, 134 ; neighbourhood, 134 Spigno, 78 Spineticum, 590 Spinetta, la, stat., 63 Spinone, lake, 264 Spotorno, 94 Spresiano stat., 462 Stained glass of Italy, xxviii Stanghelia, 440 Steamers between Genoa and Sardinia, 100 between Genoa and Leg- horn, &c., 100 between Venice and Tri- este, 3 76, 440 ' on the lake Maggiore, 61, 154 on the lake of Como, 158, 163 on the lake of Iseo, 261 on the lake of Garda, 284 Stellata, 490 Stradella, 65 Stregone, Monte, 78 TRADATE. Stresa, 149, 151 Strevi, stat., 77 Strona river, 148 Stupinigi villa, 38 Stura river, 75 Sturla torrent, 128 Suello, 167 Sulzano, 263 Superga, la, hill and church, 36 Susa to Turin, 7 , arch at, 7 , marquisate of, 2 Taggla torrent, 91. Village, 91. Valley, 99 Tagliamento river, 442, 443 Taglio del Pb, 589 Tanarelo mountain, 75 Tanaro river, 56, 73— Source of, 75 Taneto, 475 Tassone canal, 507 Taro river, and bridge over, 456 Tartaglia, escape of, 266 Tartaro river, 435 Tasso's prison, 505 Tavarone torrent, 474 Tavazzano, 247 Tavernerio, 166 Tavernola, 261 Tavernelle, stat., 336 Tenda, village, and Coldi, 70, 71 Teudola, 475 Terdoppio, 61 Terenzo, 475 Terra Rossa, 474 del Sole, 563 Terzo, 78 Theodolinda, relics of, 172 Theodoric, palace of, at Ra- venna, 578 , mausoleum of, 584 Ticino river, 48 151. Bridges over, 48, 244 stat., 48 Tidone river, 65 Timayo river, 444 Tino and Tinetto, islands of, 135 Tippoo, sword of, 25 Toccia, river, 148, 151 Toirano, 92 Torazzo stat, 39 Torcello island, 431 Torno, 163 Torre torrent, 473 Torre, la, 264 Torre delle Armi, 99 Torre Beretti stat., 60 Tom, 288 Torricelli, birthplace, 595 Torrigia, 163 Torrion Balducco, 45 Tortona stat., 63 ; town and fortress of, 56 Toscolano, 284 Tours, skeleton, xxx Tradate, village, 232 Travelling y modes of, .in Italy, XV Trebbia river, 65. Tbree bat- tles of, 65 Trebbiano, 136 Trecate, 48 Tremezzina, 163 Tremosine, 284 Tresa, river, 151 Trescorre, baths of, 262 Treviglio stat., 257 Treviso, 441 Trezzo, 261 Trieste, 444 Triuita, la, 76 Trino, 51 Trivella, castle of, 72 Trofifarello, stat., 55, 66 Tronzano stat., 40 Tunnel of Busalla, 58 Turbigo, 48 Turin, battle of, 20, 36 Turin, 12. Inns — Cafes— Re- staurateurs, 12. Post-office, 12. Diligences, vetturini, &c., 17. Railways, physi- cians, population, 18. His- tory, 19. Climate, 20. Build- ings—Cathedral, 20. St. Su- dario— Relics, 20. Churches, 21. Protestant church, 22. Royal Palace— King's Li- brary, 23, Armoury, 24. Archives — Military Aca- demy. 25. Zoological Gar- dens—Castle, 26. Observa- tory — Academy of Science — Royal Gallery of Pictures, 26. Museum of Antiquities — Egyptian Collection, 29. Medals — Museum of Nat. Hist, 31. University and li- brary, 32. Academy of Fine Arts— Piazzas, 3?. Palaces — Theatres, 34. Charitable In- stitutions, 35' Cemetery, 36. Environs — Superga, 36. Tiro Nazionale, 38. Royal Vil- las, 38. Turin to AUessandria, 59. to Asti, Si, 54 to Cormayeur, 38 to Genoa, 54 to Milan, 38, 50 to Nice, 66 to Oneglia, 75 to Piacenza, 62 to Pinerolo and Vaudois • Valleys, 18, 80 to Romagnano, 38 to Savona, 77, 80 * — to Susa, 7 to Val d'Aosta, 38 Ubayanette torrent, 70 Ubaye torrent, 70 Udine, town, 443 INDEX. 619 UNIVERSITY. University of Bologna, 520 Genoa, 116 Padua, 366 Parma, 470 Pavia, 243 Turin, ?2 Urago d' Oglio, 257 Urbano, Fort, 509 Uso river, the Rubicon, 592, 600 601 V. Vado, 94 Vaglia, 556 Vajoni, viaduci of, 559 Val d' Andona, fossil organic remains at, 56 Val Camonica, 262 Val Cavallina, 262 Val Cunella, 319 Val Madonna stat., 60 Val Pantena, J19 Val Pesio, 69 Val Policella, 319 Val Seriana, 263 Valbura cascade, 561 Valdagno, 346 Valdechiesa stat., 55 Valdieri baths, 69 Valeggio, village and castle of, 320 Valenza stat., 60 Val Sassina, 165 Valle stat., 60 Valley of Ronca, 319 Valli grandi Veronesi, 435 di Comacchio, 566 Vanestra torrent, 80 Vaprio, 289 Vara river, 132 Varagine, 96 Varallo Pombia, stat., 61 Varazze, 96 A'arenna, 164 Varese, 156. Roads from, to the Simplon, Laveno, Como, Porto, and Milan, 157. Public conveyances to the Camerlata stat. and Como, 156. To Lago Maggiore, 157 I Varese, lake, 156 Varignano, 134 Varigotti, 94 Varrone torrent, 164 Vartrenus, anc, 593 | Velleia, ruins of, 45J. Objects] of antiquity found at, 453 Velva or Bracco pass, 131 Veneria Reale, 38 Venetian Provinces : Territory, population, money, 291. Weights and measures, post- ing, railways, 292. Venice stat., 369 Venice, city, 369. Hotels, 369. Passports, Restaurants, Caf^s, Gondolas, 375- Railways, Steamers, 375. Post-oflSce, VENICE. 376, 402, Shops, 376. Valets de Place, Description and History, 377. Costume, Dialect, INIanufactures, 379. Port, Trade, I'iazza of St. Marco, 380. Cathedral, 381. Crypt, 385. Clock Tower, 386. Merceria, 386. Procu- ratie Vecchie, 386. Procu- ratie Nuove, 387. Palazzo Reale, 388. Li brer ia, 389. Zecca, 389. Columns, 389. Lion of St. Mark, 389. Piers of St. John of Acre, 390. Campanile, 390. Doge's Pa- lace, 390. Bridge of Sighs, 399. Arsenal and Dockyard, 399. Canal Grande, 401. Palaces, 401 -407. Rialto, 404. Fabbnche, 404. Ponte di Rialto, 404. Fondachi, 405. Churches, 407. Archives, 410. Scuole, 42 1 . Academy of Fine Arts, 422. Museo Correr, 405. Pinacoteca Maufrin, 406. Pinacoteca Manfredini, 428. Theatres, 428. Artesian wells, 428. Plan for visiting the city, 429. Excursions, 429 Churches : St. Mark (Cathe- dral), 381. SS. Apostoli, 407 . La Vergine delCarmelo, 407. S. Casiano, 407. S. Francesco della Vigna, 407. Gesuati, 410. Gesuiti, 410. S. Gia- como di Rialto, 411. S. Giobbe,4ii. S. Giorgio Mag- giore, 411. S. Giorgio de' Greci, 412. S. Giorgio dei Schiavoni, 412. S. Giovanni in Bragola, 412. S.Giovanni Crisostomo, 413. SS. Gio- vanni e Paolo, 413. S. La- zaro, 420. Madonna dell' Or to, 415. S. Maria For- mosa, 416. S. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, 408. S. Maria delle Misericordia, 416. The Madonna de' Mii-acoli, 416. S. Maria della Salute, 416. S. Moise, 417. S. Pantaleone, 417. S. Pietro di Castello, 417. 11 Redentore, 417. S. Rocco,42i. S. Salvatore, 418. Gli Scalzi, 419. S. Sebastiano, 419. S.Stefano, 419. Tolen- . tini, 420. S. Trovaso, 420. S. Zaccaria, 420 Islands : — Murano, 429 ; S. Michele, 43 1 ; Burano and Mazorbo, 431 ; Torcello, 431 ; Lido, 433 ; Pelestrina, 434; Malamocco pass, 434. Chiog- gia, 4M Venice to Chioggia, excursion, — to Padua, Vicenza, Verona, and Milan, 375 to Ravenna, 589 VETTUONE. Venice to Treviso, 375, 440 to Trieste, 375, 440 Ventimiglia, 89 Venzone, 443 Vercelli, lordship of, 2 city, 40. Cathedral, 40. Library, 40. Churches, 41 * to Turin, 40 to No vara, 44 Verdello, 256 Vergatello torrent, 558 Vergato, 558 Vermanagna, valley of the, 70 Vernaccia wine, 133 Vernazza, 133 Verolengo, 51 Verolfjuova, 245 Verona, city of, 293. Inns, cli- mate, divisions, site, 293. Ancient buildings .- — Amphi- theatre, 294. Plan, 295. Roman theatre, 297. Porta de* Borsari, 297. Arco de' Leoni, Fortifications, 297. Gallery of pictures, 302. Cathedral, 305. Baptistery, 306. Biblioteca Capitolare, 307. Caster Vecchio, 304. Castel' San Pietro, 304. Cas- tel' San F'elice, 304. Museo Lapidario, 304. Palazzo del Consiglio, 299. Piazza delle Erbe, 299. Piazza dei Signori, 299. Pinacoteca, 302. The- atres, 318. Tombs of the Scaligers, 300. Vescovado, or bishop's palace, 307. Neigh- bourhood of Verona, 318. Churches : S. Anastasia, 308. S. Bernardino, 309. S. Elena, 309. S. Eufemia, 309. S. Fermo Maggiore, 310. S. Giorgio Maggiore, 311. S. Giovanni in Valle, 311. S. Maria in Organo, 312. S. Maria della Scala, 312. SS. Nazaro e Celso, 312. S. Pietro Martire, 309. S. Rocco, 401. S. Sebastiano, 313. S. Stefano, 313. S. TomasoCantuarense, 313. S. Zenone, 313 Palaces :— Canossa, Giusti, Miniscalchi, Guarienti, Maf- fei, Gazzola, &c., 316, 317 Tomb of Juliet, Verona and Shakspeare, ike, 317 Theatres, 317. Cemetery, J18 Plan for visiting, 318 Verona, congress, 293 environs of, 311 * — to Brescia, 276 to Mantua, 320 to Vicenza, Padua, and Venice, 334 Verrua, 51 Vespolate stat., 61 Vestena Nova, 319 Vettuone, 50 620 INDEX. VETTURINI. VILLANUOVA. ZURLA. Vetturini, xv donna di Monte Berico, 345* Villanuova stat., 335 Vezzano, i?6 Rotonda of Palladio, 345- Villastellone stat., 66 Via Emilia, 45?, 478, 509, 548, Cemetery, 33$. Plan for Vinaglio, battle of, 44 573, 600. Roman stations visiting, 345 Viro, village, 558 on, 57? Vicenza to Bassano, 346 Voghera, 64 Clodia, 473 to Padua, 351 Vogogna, 148 Vicentine hills, ^44 to Recoaro, J46 • Volta, birthplace, i6i Vicenza stat., J^6 * — to Verona, 334 village, 286 ViCENZA: Inns, 336. Plan Vico, village, 76 Voltri, 97 of the city, 331- Situa- Vico, sub. of Como, 162 tion—Bridges — Roman re- Vicopre, 472 mains — Palladio's build- Vigevano, 61 z. ings—Piazza de' Signori — Vigarano, 490 Basilica— Palazzo Prefettizio Vigoese, Monte, 558 Zanelli canal, 595 3 39. Cathedral — Churches, Villa, 473 Zappolino, battle of, 484 340. Palaces, 541 . Casa Piga- Villafranca stat., ?2o, 474 Zenna, 153 fetta, 542. Teatro Olimpico Treaty of, 286, 320 Zinasco, 60 342. Pinacoteca Civica, 343. Villamaggiora, 23 j Zinola, 94 CoUegio Cordellino, 344. Villanova, stat., $§ Zurla, Card., 431 Neighbourhood of, ^44. Ma- Villanuova, 92 THE END. LONDON: PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 1871. Tho best Advertising Medium for all who are desirous of attracting the attention of English and American Tourists in all parts of the world. Annual Circulation, 15,000. Advertisements must he received by the 20th April, and are inserted at the rate of £5 for a pagQ and 50s. tor half a page. INDEX TO THE ADVERTISEMENTS. 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VIENNA i ^^' ^' U^^^^CH, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 3. \ Messrs. J. & L. Lobmeykr, Glass Manufacturers, 940, Kamtliner VOLTERRA Sig. Otto. Solaini. rstras^e. WALDSHUTT Mr. Fred. Hoz. ZURICH Mr. Honkgger-FUgli. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 5 FLORENCE. TELEMACO DI G. BIANCHINI, MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES' ORNAMENTS OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC, LUNG' ARNO NTJOVO, 1, AND BORG' OGNISSANTI, 2, TNVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where -*- may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful ^lanufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables and other Ornaments executed to any Design. T. BiANCHiNi's Correspondents in England are Messrs. J. & K. M ON CJIuAS^S*. also a large Assortment of PHOTOGRAPHS, including the complete Collections of the various Public Galleries. Correspondents in England ^ Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Stieet, Cannon Street, E.C., London. Correspondents in the United States^ Messrs!. KeLLER & LiNGG, 97, Kende Street, New York. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. G^ E IV O A. HORACE AUaUSTE MOSSA, MANUFACTURER OF GOLD ANO SILVER FILAGREE WORK, Which obtained PRIZE MEDAL at the Universal Exhibition of London in 1851. His Establishments are situated in the Grande Albergo d'ltalia and Albergo Croce di Malta, in Via del Campo, near the Porta di Yacca ; he also keeps a Depository in the Grande Albergo di Genova. He undertakes the execution of all Commissions with exactitude, and guarantees his AVorks to be of pure Gold and Silver, and Silver doubly gilt. Travellers are invited to visit his Establishments without obligation to purchase. Correspondents in England —Messrs. J. & R. MeCRACKE]>r, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. MR. TENNANT, GEOLOGIST, 149, STRAND, LONDON, W.C., gives practical Instruction in Mineralogy and Geology. He can also supply Elementarj'' Collections of Minerals, Rocks, and Fossils, on the following terms : — 100 Small Specimens, in cabinet, with three trays £2 2 *200 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with five trays 5 5 300 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with eight drawers . , - . 10 10 400 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with twelve drawers .... 21 More extensive collections, to illustrate Geology, at 50 to 100 Guineas each, with every requisite to assist those commencing the study of this interesting science, a knowledge of which affords so much pleasure to the traveller in all parts of the world. * A collection for Five Guineas wliich will illustrate the recent works on Geology by Ansted, Bucklaiid, Jukes, Lyell, Murchison, Page, Phillips, and contains 200 Specimens, in a cabinet, with live trays, comprisitig the following, viz. : — Minerals which are either the components of Rocks, or occasionally imbedded in them : — Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asbestus. Felspar, Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Zircon, Topaz, Spinel, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Baryta, Strontia, Salt, Cryolite, Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen, Jet, &c. JSative Metals or Metalliferous Minerals: these are found in masses, in beds, or in veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. Specimens of the following are contained in the Cabinet; — Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver, Gold, Platina,&c. Rocks: — Granite,Gneis8,Mica-slate,Porphyry,Serpentine.Sandstones,Limestoncs,Lavas, &c. Paleozoic Fossils, from the Llande51o,Wenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and CarboniferousRocks, Secondary Fossils, from the Trias, Lias, Oolite, Wealden, and Cretaceous Groups. Tertiary Fossils, from the Woolwich, Barton, and Bracklesham Beds, London Clay.Crag, &c. In the more expensive Collections some of the Specimens are rare, and all more select. ELEMENTARY LECTURES ON MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY, adapted to young persons, are given by J. TENNAN T, F.R.G.S., at his residence, 149, STRAND, W.C, and Private Instruction to Travellers, Engineers, Emigrants, Landed Proprietors, and others, illustrated by an extensive collection of Specimens, Diagrams, Models, &c.' All the recent works relating to Mineralogy, Geology, Conchology, and Chemistry; also Geological Maps, Models, Diagrams, Hammers, Blowpipes, Magnifying Glasses, Platina Spoons, Electrometer and Magnetic Needle, Glass-top Boxes, Microscopic Objects, Acid Bottles, &c., can be supplied to the Student in these interesting and important branches of Science, MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, Mav, COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. JOHAM MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ (Opposite the Julich's Place), PUKVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; TO H. M. THE IQNG OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF FRANCE; THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., OF THE ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, Which obtained the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition 0/1867. ''PHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most -L part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request the attention of English travellers to the following statement : — The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it; and in order to be able to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro- cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name, which is a very common one in Italy. Persons who wish to purchase tJie genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti- cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina y but also the additional words, gegeniiber dem JUlich's Platz (that is, opposite the Julich's Place), without addition of any number. Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house, situated opposite the Julich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a high price and a bad article. Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my house, opposite the JUlich's Place, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three bear my name and firm, Johann Maria Farina, Gegeniiber dem Julich's Platz. The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862, awarded to me the Prize Medal ; that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1855 ; and received the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and in Oporto 1865. CoLOGNK, January, 1869. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ. ♦^* My Agency in London is at Messrs. J. & R. Mc, kc 30s. to 36.v St. Jiilion, (il-c 42s. Or.her (<^>ualities .... 48s. to 150s. BURGUNDIES— I Vauno 24s. to 30s. Voinay 36s. to 42s. Other Quaiities 48s. to 84s. Chablis 30s. to 54s. HOCK-Oppenheim 2ls. Nierrttein 30s. Hochheini 36s. to 42s. Otlier Qiialiti' s 48s. to 120s. SPARKLING HOCK and MOSELIjE . 42s. to 54s. CHAMPAGNE 42.-?. to 72s. SHf'iRRIES-Pale, Gold, &c 36s. to 60s. PORT 36s. to V2s. Fine Old Vintage Wines S4s. to l2H.'^^IVG^LETER,IiE. HEIfRY SPECHT, Wine Merchant and Grower. This first-rate and excellent Hotel (combining every English comfort), situated in front of the Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to the Steamboats and close to the Railway Stations. From its Balconies and Rooms are Picturesque Views of the Rhine and Mountains. Galignani, Times, and Illustrated News taken in. The Table-d'Hote is renowned for its excellence, and for its Genuine Ehenish Wines and Sparkling Hock, which Mr. Specht exports to England jit Wholesale Prices. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 19 GEN EVA. F. GRIYAZ, MANUFACTURING JEWELLER, No. 10, GRAND QUAI. Onh^ Proprietor of the celebrated Grotto de Topozes discovered in August, 1868, in the Mountains du Galan- stock, Canton d'Uri. An immense choice of Jewels in the first tiiste will be found here, and all the Oriental Stones mounted and unmounted. This house was founded in 1837, and is highly recommended by the nu- merous travellers who have visited it. GARY'S IMPROVED POCKET TOURIST'S TELESCOPE. {See * Murray's Handbook') Manufacturer of all descriptions of Mathe- matical, Surveying, and Optical instruments, for the use of Naval and Military OtBcers, &c. Also the new Binocular Reconnoitring Field Glass, in Aluminium of exceeding lightness and durability, so highly spoken of by officers and other gentlemen : from 11. Is. ; ordinary metal from 2l. 10s. Gary's improved Achro- matic Microscope, with two sets of choice lenses, capable of delining the severe test objects; from 21. 15s. Travelling Spectacles of all kinds. Mathematical and Optical Instrument Maker by special appointment to the War Office, Admiralty, Trinity House, Roya Military College, Sandhurst, Royal Geogra- phical Society, Christ's Hospital, Triuity House, King's College, &c.; and Optician to the Royal London Ophthalmic Hospital. GOULD & PORTER, Successors to GARY, 181, STRAND, LONDON. Established upwards of a Century. ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH, LEICESTERSHIRE. ROYAL HOTEL, FAMILY, COMMERCIAL, AND POSTING HOUSE, E. K. MILLS, Pr.oPRTctOR. This first-rate and old-established Family and Commercial Hotel, within twO minutes' walk of the Kailway Station, and adjoining the celebrated IVANHOL 1>ATHS, will be found replete with every comfort, combined with economy, for the reception of Families and Yitiitors. FRANKFORT O. M. MR. C. A. LOHE, PllOPRIETOU OF THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, Begs to recommend his House to English Travellers. ''j'^HIS large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the innnediate J- superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, and a new splendid Dining-room. The " Roman Emperor" is often honoured by Royal Families and other high personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel — H.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WURTEMBERG. H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WURTEMBERG. H.I.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c. &c. &c. Table-d'h6te at 1, Ifl. 30kr. Breakfast. aA^ ^''^^r ^^^ Passports carefully Mounted and Cased, and I j] \ %.t Names lettered thereon in Gold. || LTV*' 11 \ Ci Passport Cases from Is. 6d. to 4s. 6d. each. || g_ IZfj^ ;;^ ^L,.„nnnin^^ „_ THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. BRADSHAW'S BRITISH and CONTINENTAL GUIDES and HANDBOOKS to France, Belgium. Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany, Tyrol, Paris, Turkey, Syria, and Palestine (2 vols). Tourist's Handbook to Great Britain, &c. Baedeker's Handbooks Ball's Alpine Guides, Pack's Pyrenees. Brad.shaw's Complete Phrase Books, French, Italian, Spanish, and German. Is. each. Bradshaw's Overland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 5s. Bradshaw's Handbooks to Bombay, Madras, and Ben^jal, 10s. each. Kellar's, Letttholu's, and Zieglek's Maps of Switzerland. Mayr's Map of th"e Tyrol, Knapsacks, Rugs, Waterproof Coats, Door-fasteners, Handbags, Portmanteaus, Straps, Soap, Compasses, Drinking Cups, Courier Bags, Glycerine, &c. Harpkr & Applkton's Handbook to Europe and the East. Black's Guides to England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. O'Shea's Spain and Portugal. Phrase Books end Dictionaries. Experienced Couriers engaged upon application* GENEVA. HOTEL DES BERGUES. F. WAOHTEE, Proi>rietor. In a matcliless position, and of European reputation, tliiss large First-class Hotel was entirely re-arranged and freshly decorated in 1870, with the addition also of a new superb ^' Salon de Conversation." Unrivalled for its fine Cellar of Wities, its Dinners, and prompt attendance* PENSIOH POR THE WINTER MONTHS, at very moderate Prices. 1871. MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 Stanford's Foreign Office Passport Agency, G tl 7, CHABING CROSS, LONDON, S.W. Passports (which are good for life) mounted on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, Morocco, or Russia Case, with the name of the Owner lettered on the outside, thus preventing injury, or lOiS, as well as Icssenmg the delay in examination abroad. For further particulars, including the Forms of Application, Cost of Passport, Visas, &c., see Stanford's Passport Circular, which will be forwarded per post on receipt of One Stamp. , Gratis on application, or free per post for One Stamp, STANFORD'S TOURIST'S CATALOGUE, Containing Title, Price, &c., of the Best Guide Books, Maps, Conversation Books, Diction- aries, &c., published in the United Kingdom, the Continent, and America, and kept cnn^ stantly in stock by Edward Stanford. London: EDWARD STANFORD, 6 & 7, Chasing Ckoss, S.W., Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Survey Maps, and Admiralty Charts. GENEVE^ GRAND HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. THIS tirst-rate, splendid Hotel has the advantage of being the most pleasant! v situated in Geneve, on the Quai du Mont Blanc, near the English Church, in iront of the Steamboat Landing, and very near the Railway Station. From the Garden and two delightful Terraces, and from each window of the Hotel, Mont Blanc, the Lake, and the Town, can be seen in their fullest extent. Charges moderate. Table-d'Hote three times a day. Is the resort of the first Englisii and American Families. MAYEB «& KUNZ, Proprietors. First-rate House, containing about one hundred large Apartments and Saloon, for Families, having been lately enlarged. ENGLISH SPOKEN AND ENGLISH NEWSPAPERS KEPT. V E V E Y. GRAND HOTEL DE VEVEY, Opened February 18G8. FIRST-CLASS HOUSE in every respect. Splendid situation in the midst of a Large Park, on the Lake shoi-e. Magnificent view in all directions. Baths in the Hotel. Lift. Telegraphic Bureau. Landing- place for the Lake Steamers (Grand Hotel). Omnibus at the Eailway tStation. Board during the Winter Season. ALFBED HIRSCHY. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, THE CONTINENT. COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OP DIFFERENT NATIONS. Society of Couriers and Travelling Servants, Established 16 Years. Patronised loj^ the Eoyal Family, Nobility, and Gentry, J2, BURY STEEET, ST. JAMES'S, THIS Society is composed of Members of different Nations, all of well-established reputation, great experience, efficiency, find respectability. Couriers suitable for any country can be obtained. Italians, Germans, Swiss, French, and Men of other Nations, compose this Society; some of whom, besides the usually required languages^ speak Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Turkish, and Arabic, — in fact, every Continental and European language. Travellers for any part can immediately meet with Couriers and Travelling Servants on application to the Secretary. COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF DIFFERENT NATIONS, 12, BURY STRKET, ST. JAMFS'S. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 BONN ON THE RHINE. MR. SCHMITZ, PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, Begs leave to recommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The ajDart- ments are furnished throughout in the English style ; the rooms are carpeted ; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine- cellar, is well provided. Mr. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no first- rate Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges and more cleanliness. The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following Members of the English Royal Family : — {H. R. H, the Prince of Wales, accompanied by General Sir W. Codrington, Colonel PoNsoNBY, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Armstrong, Kev. F. C. Tarvek, Mr. GiBBS, etc. ,ycw . on f H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite paying a visit at the Golden A»o <. Au^. zu -^ g^^^ jj^^^j^ ,^ jj.g ]viajesty the King of the Belgians. 1857. Aug. 8 H. R. H. the Prince of Wales and his Suite. 1857 Julv 29 5'^*P^* ^- ^^® Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mary of Cambridge, ^ ^ \ accompanied by the Baron Knesebeck and Suite. ,g_,. y , oQ f H. R. H. the Prince of Wales paymg a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to i8D7. juiy ZM j rj. ^ ^ ^^^ Duchess of Cambridge and Princess Mary of Cambridge. iH. R. H. the Prince of Wales, accompanied by the Right Honourable C. Grey, General Major, Colonel Ponsonby, Sir Frederic Stanley, Dr. Armstrong, Rev. F. C. Tarver, Mr. Gibbs, etc. 1 ft'ifi Nov •{ ^^* ^'" ^' P^i"^^ Alfred of Great Britain, accompanied by Lieutenaiit- "• • (. General Sir Frederick Stovin and Lieutenant Co well. IH. M. Adelaide, Queen Dowager of Great Britain, accompanied by His Highness Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar, Lord and Lady Bar- RiNGTON, Sir David Davies, M.D., Rev. J. R. Wood, M.A., Captain Taylor, &c. &c., honoured the above establishment with a Three Days' Visit. 1818. May. . H. R. H. the Duke of Cambridge and Suite. 1825. March C H. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Clarence (King William IV. and and Sept. . \ Queen Adelaide) and Suite. T Iv i ■^' ^^' ^^^^^^ Adelaide, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of Errol, 18^4. J uiy . » -^ ^^^^ ^^^^ Countess of Denbigh, Earl and Countess Howe, &c. 1 836. Aug. , H. R. H. the Duchess of Gloucester and Suite. 1837. July , . H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. 1839. Nov. . H. R. H. the Prince George of Cambridge and Suite. -pj ( H. R. H. Prince Albert of Saxe Coburg Gotha, accompanied by Prince '\ Ernest of Saxe Coburg Gotha, and their Suite. f H, R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge, accompanied by the Princess Augusta *° " \ of Cambridge, and their Suite. ( H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S, H. the * * \ Prince of Lkiningen. 1841 H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. — . . . . H. R. H. Princess Carolina of Cambridge. 1844. . . . H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge and Suite. ... H. R. H. Princess Mary of Cambridge. ,...r T., .. 5 H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the 1845. June .j Prince of Leiningen. ,«4- r^irr j T. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, with their Family and 184 i. Jaiy ^ gy^g 24 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FLORENCE, P. EOMANELLI, Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, the late Professor Bartolini, has opened a Gallery, Lung' Arno Guicciardini, No. 7. The Intelligent amateur will find there a Collection of Statues, both originals and copies, artistically executed. Principal Works : — The Son of William Tell ; the Young Franklin ; the Young Wash^ ington ; the Young Whittington ; the Young Napoleon ; the Young Moses ; Garibaldi. J. FIELD, House and Estate Agent, Auctioneer, fee, THE LODGE, No. 3, GARY PARADE, TORQUAY. The Nobility, Gentry, and Families gene- rally, requiring Furnished or Unfurnished Residences in Torquay or its neighbourhood, receive every attention and information, either personally or Ijy letter, on application to JMr. J. F., whose whole time is especiallj'' devoted to House Agency, Sales by Auction, &c., &c. All letters of enquiry must please contain a postage stamp. GENEVA MUSICAL BOXES. B. A, BREMOND, MANUFACTURER. Prize Medal, Paris Exhibition, 1867. WHOLESALE. RETAIL, EXPORTATION. 7, RUE PRADIEE, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND, GENEVA. HOTEL I3E L.^ COXJI^OIVTSrE. Proprietor, Mr. F. BAUK. THIS ESTABLISHMENT, of tlie first Eank, completely newly furnished throughout, situated in front of the magnificent Pont du Mont Blanc, the National Monument, the Steam-boat landing, and the Englisli Garden, enjoys a most extended view of Lac Leman and Mont Blanc. Every attention paid to the com.fort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen. Active attendance, good cuisine and cellar. English and American newspapers. Tables-d'Hote 3 times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel to every Train. FLORENCE, BRIZZI AND NIOCOLAI'S BXusica^l Estalbli^hmejit. PIANOFORTES, OF THE BEST MAKERS, FOR SALE AND ON HIRE. GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. Ztalian and Foreign SMEusic. Musical Lending Library. PIAZZA MADONNA, I BRANCH HOUSE (Music DEPdx) PALAZZO ALDOBRANDINI. | 12, VIA CERRETANL 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 25 MUDIES SELECT LIBRARY. BOOKS FOR ALL READERS. FIRST-GLASS SUBSCRIPTION FOR A CONSTANT SUCCESSION OF THE NEWEST BOOKS, One Gririnea per* .A-imtnii^ COMMENCING AT ANY DATE. [BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS. CHEAP BOOKS.— NOTICE. TWENTY THOUSAND VOLUMES OF BOOKS IN ORNAMENTAL BINDING FOR PRESENTS. CONSISTING CHIEFLY OF WORKS OF THE 3BEST AUTHORS, AND MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND VOLUMES of Surplus Copies of other Popular Books of the Past Season, ARE NOW ON SALE AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES. Catalogues postage free on Application. MUDIE'S SELECT LIBEARY, New Oxford Street, London. CITY OFFICE— 4, King Street, Cheapside. ANTWERP, HOTEL ST. ANTOINE, PLACE VERTE, OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL. 'pHIS Excellent fii^st-class Hotel, which enjoys the well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been repurchased by its old and well-known Proprietor, Mr. Schmitt- Spaenhoven ; who, with his Partner, will do everything in their power to render the visit of all persons who may honour them with their patronage as agreeable and comfortable as possible. Baths in the Hotel, 26 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, By Appointment to H. R. H. The Prince of Wales. ICIENS PORTMANTEAUS 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. New Illustrated Catalogues of Registered Articles for 1871 Post Free. ^^^2ll ALLENS PATCHT BAG . ALLEN'S PATENT ALLEN'S PATENT ALLEN'S PATENT BAG. DESPATCH-BOX DESK. Quadruple Portmanteau. ALLEN'S SOLID LEATHER DRESSING-CASE. ALLEN'S EXPANDING PORTMANTEAU. ALLEN'S 10 GUINEA SILVER DRESSING BAG. ALLEN'S NEW DRESSING BAG. ALLEN'S SOLID MAHOGANY DRESSING-CASE. LADY'S WARDROBE PORTMANTEAU. Allen's Barrack Furniture Catalogue^ for Officers joining^ Post Free. PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 187!. MURKAY^S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 27 IRELAND. PORTRUSH. THIS Hotel is beautifully situated, having an uninterrupted view of the Atlantic Ocean, the Giant's Causeway, the Skerrees, and Lough Koylk. It contains upwards of 100 Apartments, Principally facing tlie Sea. A NOBLE COFFEE-ROOM, with Drawing-Room attached, equally available for Ladies and Gentlemen. Table -d'Ho'te daily during the Season. Cuisine and Wines First-Class. Terms moderate. French spoken. Biilmrd aucl ^mokin^ Roonifit. THE SEA BATHS, Recently rebuilt on the Hotel Grounds, by Mr. Brown, will be found to contain every modern improvement. Separate Apartments for Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot, Cold, Shower, and Douche Baths. The Superintendents in each Department being people of experience, visitors to the Baths may depend on every attention. Extensive Posting and Livery Establishment in connection with the Hotel. A Vehicle to the Giant's Causeway and back daily during the Season. Visitors to the Hotel are respectfulli/ requested to he particular in inquiring for the ANTRIM ARMS HOTEL Omnibus. It attends all Steamers and Trains, for the conveyance of Passengers to the Hotel free. J. BROWN, Proprietor. Portrush is the nearest Railway Station to the Giant's Causeway. London and South-Western Railway, LONDON STATION, WATERLOO BRIDGE. The Cheap and Picturesque Route to PARIS, HAVRE, ROUEN, HONFLEUR, AND CAEN, Via SOUTHAMPTON and HA VRE. ?]very Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, the last Train from London at 9 p.m. for the Southampton Docks, alongside tlie Steamer. Fares throughout (London and Paris)— First Class, 30/0; Second Class, 22/0. Return Tickets (available for one month)— First Class, SO/ ; Second Class, 36/. JERSEY, GUERNSEY, AND ST, MALO. DAILY MAIL SERVICE, Vid SOUTHAMPTON— The favourite Route, Fares throughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey)— 33/ O First ; 23/0 Second Class. Every Weekday. Return Tickets (available for One Month)— 48/ O First ; or 38/0 Second Class. The Last Train from Lon'ion in time for the Steamers leaves at 9 p.m. (except on Saturdays , on v'hir.h day the Last Train is at .5.1.^ p.m., for Jersey only) for the Southampton Docks, alongside the Steamer. DIRECT SKRV^ICK TO ST. MALO. Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday according to Tide. DIRf^:CT SKRVICK TO CHERBOURG. Every Monday and Thursday, leaving Waterloo Station at 8-10 a.m. For further information apply to Mr. De VouUe, 3, Place Vendorae, Paris. — Mr. Langstaff, 47, Grand Qnai, Havre. — Mr. Enault, Honfleur. Mr. E. D. Le Couteur, Jersey. — Mr. Spencer, Guernsey, — Captain Gaudin, St. Malo. Messrs. Mahieu, Cherbourg. Or to Mr. E. K. Corke, Steam Packet Superintendent, Southampton. 28 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, DRESDEN. HOTEL BELLEVUE, DRESDEN, Kept by Mr. EMIL KAYSER. rpHIS fine large Establishment, situated on the banks of the Elbe, between the -*- two beautiful bridges, facing the Theatre, Museum, and Catholic Cathedral, adjoining the Biiihl's Terrace, and opposite the Royal Palace and Green Vaults, contains One Hundred Front Booms, These apartments combine elegance and comfort, and most of them fronting either the Theatre Square, or public walks and gardens of the Hotel, and command fine views of the River, Bridges, and distant Mountains. The Gardens of the Hotel afford its guests an agreeable and private Promenade, Table d'Hote at one and five o'clock. Private Dinners at any hour. To families or single persons desirous of taking apartments for the winter, very advantageous arrangements will be offered, and every effort made to render their residence in the Hotel pleasant and comfortable. Carriages, Baths, Ridilig, Billiard and Smoking Rooms, Ladies' Parlour. GENEVE, GRAND QUAI 26. REYN^XJD & GM^^TOXJ, pEnwfattwrers of llEttbcs aivb- l^fo^Irg. CHRONOMETERS and WATCHES with Complex Movements, Great Choice of Jewelry in entirely New Designs. 3 MEDALS INT 1867. HOUSE AT NICE, 15, QUAI MASSINA. Corresimndents at I.03fI>0M^, PAR IS, and WEISV XOUM. Everything sold at Manufacturers' Prices. "plTre^^rated waters. ELLIS^S RUTHIN WATERS, Soda, Potass, Seltzer, Lemonade, Lithia, and for GOUT, Lithia and Potass. CORKS BRANDED " R- ELLIS & SON", RUTHIN," and every label bears their trade mark. Sold everywhere, and Wholesale by R. Ellis & Son, Ruthin, North Wales, London Agents : "W. Best & Sons, Henrietta St., Cavendish Square. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 20 THE SWISS AND THE UNITED COURIERS' SOCIETY, Amalgamated, and. Begistered according to Act of Parliament as the SWISS AND UNITED COURIERS' SOCIETY. Which is composed of men of various nations, all of whom possess the highest testimonials, and are recommended to families who, on their travels, desire to rid themselves of the annoyances and encumbrances attending a tour in foreign lands, and thus ** save time, temper, and money." No one is admitted as a Member in the above Society unless he is of the strictest integrity, and possesses all the necessary qualifications for a competent Courier. For Engagements, Or any Information respecting Travelling on the Continent, APPLY TO THE SECRETARY OF THE Swiss and United Couriers' Society, 58, MOUNT STREET, &ROSVENOR SQUARE, W., LONDON. :^0 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, May, BERNE (Switzerland.) o>9^.o MUSICAL BOXES, WOOD CARVINGS, SCULPTURES, &., &0., OF J. U. H E Ij L E Pt, AT BERN E. Manufacture unattained by any other House. BOLOGNA. GRAND HOTEL DITALIE. rpHIS First-class Establishment, newly re-fitted up, enjoys -L the most central situation in the town, and is close to all the most interesting Public Buildings. LAEGE AND SMALL WELL-rUKNISHED APAETMENTS AND EOOMS= Well supphed Eeading-room. Sitting-room with Piano. ENGLISH and FEENOH NEWSPAPEES. TABLE D'HOTE, &c. All the Attendants speak EngHsh, Prenchj &c. BILLIARDS. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. GENEVA. HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE, Directed by Mr. CHARLES ALDINGER, formerly the well-known Proprietor of the Hotel de la Couronne, and now the Proprietor of the Hotel de la Metropole. ''pHlS large and excellent Establishment, situated in the most favourable quarter of X the town, facing the Pont du Mont Blanc, with the English Garden in front, which is well provided with flowers and shrubs, and shady seats, and goes down to the edge of the lake. From the rooms in front there is a. very fine view of the lake, and from those at the back the snow-capped summit of Mont Blanc is seen in the distance ; and from an Observatory at the top of the house, of very easy access, both can be seen, and a very extended view of the surrounding country. It contiiins 200 most elegantly furnished Bed and Sitting Rooms in every variety, and the Proprietor himself superintends all the arrangements. A Heading Room, with all English, American, French, and German newspapei's, and a spacious Coffee and Smoking Room are in the Hotel ; in short, every comfort Visitors can expect in a first-class Hotel is at their disposition. The House, by its good ventilation, is exceedingly cool in summer ; and in winter is heated by large stoves. Charges are very moderate, and pension during the winter. Table-d'hote 3 times a day. Omnibus from the Hotel 3 times a day. Private Carriages and Cabs always ready. POUZET, OPTICIEN, MANUFACTURER, ^, 1^ TJ E r> XT M[ O TV T B X. ^ IV C. Optical and Mathematical Instruments, particularly Telescopes, Opera Glasses, Barometers and Thermometers for Travelling, Glasses for Lunettes in Kock Crystal, Stereoscopes and Stereo- scopic Views on Glass. A Complete Collection of Swiss and Italian Views. HOTEL OESTERREICHISCHER HOF, VIENNA. The undermentioned respectfully begs to recommend to the Nobility and the travelling Public in general his spacious first-class Hotel. The same is most advantageously situated in the centre of the city, near St.. Stephen's Church ; it contains lb.") rooms and saloons with balconies, and is fitted up with .-ill modern comfort and luxury. Best i*'rench cooking and first-rate wines (original; from all countries. Telegraph and Post Offices, baths and carriages. The attendance is most strictly contiollcd. Re.-pectfullv, JOH. HEYDNER, Propiuktor. ^^_ MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in i^ngland at the same prices at which they are published in Germany or France. WILLIAMS & NORGIATE have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock :— 1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 10. NATXJE/lL HISTORY 2. THEOLOGICAL CATA- ; CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo- LOGUE. i tanj, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe- 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. ' n. meDIcIl CATALOGUE. 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen- 5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC i 19 q^'^^^I't^'^'a CATALOGUE. 12. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele- o ^T.-r-n.^^rr. ^ mcntary Books, Maps, &c. 6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. I3. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU- 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. LARS. New Books, and New 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. ' 14, s^CIENTIFIC^BOOK CIRCU- 9. ART'CATALOGUE. Art,Archi- LARS. New Books and Recent tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. Purchases. ANY CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP. WILLIAMS & INTORGATE, Importers of Foreign Books, 14, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 20, South Frederick Street, Edinburgh. BADEN-BADEN- Grand Hotel and Pension Belle Vue, (Allee de LicJitentJial, dose to the English Church), Splendid situation, surrounded by large Pleasure Grounds. This Establishment is fitted up with every comfort and luxury. Kestaurant Table d'hote at 1 and 6 o'clock. Eeading Room. Carriage at the Hotel. Stabling and Coach-house. C. SILBERRAD, Propkietor. VIENNA. THE EMPEESS ELISABETH HOTEL {KAISERIN ELISABETH), JOHANN HEUG-L, Propkietok. This Hotel is situated in the centre of the Austrian capital, near St. Stephen's Square, and much frequented by English and Ameiican families for many years past ; has been entirely and thoroughly repaired, and all its apartments newly and elegantly furnished by its new Proprietor. Handsome Dining-rooms and Dining- hall, with Garden, Reading and Smoking-rooms, have been added. English, American, and French Papers on file. Private Dinners a la carte at all hours of the day. English Waiters and Commissioners in attendance. Charges moderate. Cuisine superior. 1871. MURRAV'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 NEUCHATEL, SUISSE. . GRAND hOTEL~DU MONT BLANC, KEPT BY ^ Messrs. BAUMERT and ROSER. : ^FHIS splendid Establishment, the largest, most important, and J- newest in Neuchatel, enjoys a fine view of the Lake and the Mountains, and is surrounded by a garden. It contains a magnificent Salle a Manger, Restaurant, Billiard and Smoking Room, a beautifully decorated Conversation and Reading Room, supplied with the best Newspapers. Baths at the Hotel. The Landlords, who have been for many years at the head of several of the best Continental Hotels, such as Bauer au Sac, Zurich ; Grand Hotel, Vevey ; Grand Hotel, Nice, wdl spare no pains to make the Visitors as comfortable as possible. VEVEY. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. THIRST-CLASS HOUSE, newly Re-organized, situated on the banks of the Lake of Geneva, in front of the new Steam- boat Landing-place. Table d'Hote. Restaurant a la Carte. Board during the Winter. Bath at the Hotel. Omnibus of the Hotel at the Railway Station. •^ C. HAACK. VEVEY. GRAND HOTEL DU LAG. EDOUARD DELAJOUX, Proprietok. "piRST-CLASS HOTEL, entirely new, close to the Lake, and splendid view\ SPLENDID SALON and DINING ROOM. Close to the Steam-boat Landing. 34 MTORArS HANDBOOK ADVERtlSER. May, GENEVA. HOTEL ^CTORIA, EUE DE MONT BLANC. Near the English Church, the Railway Stttion, and the Steam-hoat Landings. FIHST-CLASS HOTEL. MALSCH BERTHOUD, Peopeietoe. Salon Smoking Room, and Bath^, in the Hotel. G ENEVA. A MOUNTAIN RESIDENCE, MONT SALEVE, One and a-half hour from Geneve, 3300 ft. above the level of the sea. 3WUNETIEB HOTEL DE LA RECONNAISSANCE, Kept by PEEEEARD-FAUEAX. OMNIBUSES TO GENEVE TWICE A DAY. LAUSANNE. Mr. EITTEE, Proprietor. t^lEST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the finest part of the Town, is in every respect very highly recommonded. Splendid View over the Lake in all its extent. Large Terrace and Garden attached to the Hotel. PENSION DURING THE WINti-:!:, LAUSANNE. HOTEL RICHE^MONT, Kept by FEITZ EITTEE. npHlS Hotel is of the first order, worthy of the highest reeom- -*- mendations, and in a situation of surpassing benaly. It is surrounded by Gardens and Promenades, and offers to Travellers a highly desirable place of l-esidence, or of temporary sojourn. 18?1. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 Important to the Travelling Public. PARCELS TQ AND FROM THE CONTINENT. THE COHTINEHTAL DAILY PARCELS EXPRESS (ESTABLISHED 1849), SOLE Agency for England of the Belgian Government Bail- waj and Koitli German Po>tal Confederation, and Correspondent of the Northern of Fiance Railway, conveys by Mail Steam Packets, Every Night (Sunday excepted), via Dover, Calais, and Ostend, and rapidly by Kail and Post to destination, t'arcels and Packaoes of all kinds, between England and all parts of the Continent, at Through Rates which are very moderate, and include all charges, except Duties and Entries. Parcels should be hooked as follows : — • HOMENA^ARD.-From the Continent. In all Germany. At any Post-office of the Noj-th Geimau Postal Confederation, 01 of the Countries in coimection therewith, viz., Austria, Italy, Switzer- land, Russia, Denmaik, &c. Belgiunu At any of the State Railway Stations, at the Office of the Agent in Bi'ussels, A. Crooy, 90 bis, Montagne de la Cour ; or they can be sent direct to Mr. De Kidder, 54, Rue St. Joseph, Ottend. Holland. Jn the principal towns, Vein Gend and Loos. France. Paris, G. Pritchard, 4, Rue Rossini. To whose care also, parcels for conveyance to England can be despatched from towns beyond Paris, with advice by Post. OUTWARD.-To the Continent. In London. At Chief Office, 5,:!, Gracechurch Street, City (D. N. Bridge, Manager, to whom all communications should be addressed^, or at the Univpr>al Office, 34, I'egt'iit Circus. In Cotintry Towns. At the Agency in Liveipool, Manchester, Sheffield, Hull, Leeds, (ilascfow, Dublin, Biadl'ord, Nottingham. Southampton, Dover, and Folkestone, as stated in Books of Rates, which can be had gratis on appliciition to Chief Office. In other Towns, where no Agent is appointed, parcels should be sent under cover by Railway, to D; N. Bridge, at above address^ with advice of contents, value, instructions for in.suiance, pap9r8; P»*ading Koom and Bilhs. 38 MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, COPENHAGEN. HOTEL R^OlfcTAJ^. H. C. GILDSIG, Proprietor, THIS First-class Family Hotel, situated opposite the Eoyal Palace, and withiu two minutes' walk of the Exchange, is patro.iized b}'- the highest class of English and American travelkrs, on account of its central position for either business or pleasure. The Rooms are light and airy, and the cooking particularly adapted to English taste. Table d'H6te at three o'clock, 2s. 3d Rooms from 2s. od. and upwards. English, Fi'ench, and German spoken. London Times and other papers taken in, CHRISTIANIA. (Norway,) Hotel sgandinavie. THtS beautifully situated Hotel is well known by the English Nobility for its Cleanliness, Good Attendance, and Moderate Piices. CHR. AUG. SMITH, Proprietor. E G^PT. ALEXANDf^lA AND CAIRO. Is »pixn\ g^ppointittM ia «^^ iJ.f. i\t |rinxi of ?ialcs, anir f . f. lb "^W^ Ml^^xU of «it(gpt. DAVID KOBERTSON & CO., English Booksellers, Stationers, Photograph Vendors, and G-eneral Oominission Agents, 10, Geakd Square, Alexandria, and The Ezbekieh, Cairo. A Register of English and American Travellers is kept at the above Establishment, and Visitor^ will receive arty assiMdrice or information they may require, English and Indian Newspapers by every MaiL TAUCHNirZ EDITIONS. Passages secured. Baggage collected and forwarded. Letters received and posted to all countries. DAVID ROBERTSON AND GO., ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. 1871. MUKKAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEKTISER. 39 LUCERNE, HOTIEL SCHT^^EIZER^HOF. HAUSER BROTHERS, PpcOPRIEtors. TlIE JLAROJBST HOTOJL IN SiViTZERJLAJVO. Best Situation on the Quay, with splendid view of the cele- brated panorama of the Lake and Mountains. ''FHE high reputation which this establishment enjoys among Tiav^ellers, and especially English and American families, is the best and strorigest assurance of its superior arrangement and comfort. Its new immense Dining-Room, with adjoining Garden-Salon, aiid large Parlour, attract the attention of every Visitor. Reduced Prices (Pension) are made for lidtiger visits in the early and later parts of the Season. BERLIN. HOTEL D'ANG-LETERRE, 2, PLACE AN DER BAUACADEMIE, 2. SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND MOST ELEGANT PART OP THE TOWN, Near to the Royal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. Single travellers and large families can be accommodated with entire suites of Apartments, consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, &c., all furnished and carpeted in the best English style. First-rate Table- d'Hote, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and Galignani's Messenger taken in. Residence of Her British Majesty's Messengers. K. SISBELIST, Proprietor. INNSBRUCK, HOTEL GOLDEN SUN.— M. Horandtner, Proprietor.— This first-class Hotf'l, situated in the finest part of the town, and only four minutes* walk from the Railway Station, enjoys a high reputation for being honoured with the patronage of travellers of all nat'ons. The grf^atest qare is given to the attendance. Large and small well-furnished Apartments fur Families and Single Gentlemen. English spoken. LUCERNE. CWAN HOTEL.— This Hotel, in the very best situation, O enjoys a high character. Mr. H^EFELI, the Proprietor, has made In the later years a great many improvements, and does his utmost to offer to his visitors a comfortable home. An elegant new Ladies' Drawing-room, besides a Reading-room and Smoking-room. Cold, Warm, and Shower Baths. 40 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Mav. DRESDEN. VICTORIA HOTEL, 'THIS fine large Establishment, situated on the jDiiblic Prome- iiade of the English quarter, in tlie immediate vicinity of all the curiosities, contains One Hundred Kooms. Table d'Hote at One and Five o'clock, [ The Garden of the Hotel affords Us guests an agreeable Promenade, CABRIAGES. HEADING liCOM WITH ENGLISH AND AMERICAN PAPERS. To Families or Single Persons desirous of taking Apart- ments for the Winter, advantageous arrangements will be offered. Proprietor and Manager of the Hotel, GAEL WEISS. DRESDEN. HOTEL DE L'ANGE D'OR. ^^HIS first-class Hotel, situated in the very Lest quarter of the --L town, close to the Roj'al Palace, the Museums, and the Theatre, recommends itself by its 2;ood management and excellent cuisine. Large and small Apartments. English and French Newspapers. Table d'Jlote. Restaurant and Private Dinners at all hours. Hot and Cold Baths in the Hotel. Prices very moderate in Winter, JOS. HENRION, Proprietor. ST. JOHANN, SAARBRUCK. HOTEL ZIMMERMAN N. T AEGE and Small Apartments, Exquisite Cuisine and First- class Wines. Best Beds. Moderate Prices. Good AtteBdanco. OMNIBUS AT ALL THE TRAINS. CARRIAGES TO BE HAD AT THE HOTEL, 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41 The Miniature Photographic Apparatus for Tourists. NO KNOWLEDGE OF PHOTOGBAPHY BEQUISITE. Sole Manufacturers : MURRAY & HEATH, Opticians, &c., to Her Majesty, 69, JERMYN STREET, LONDON, S.W. Description and Prices forwarded on receipt of stamped envelope. HANOVER XJISriO:N' HOTEL. ^pHIS well-known first-class and favourite Hotel, for private -»- Families and Gentlemen, pritronised by Her Royal Highne>s Piince^s Maiy and Duke of Cambridge, also Her Majesty the Empress of Fiance, on her way to Wilhelmshohe, is beautifully and cheei fully situated right opj o.^ite the Railway Station. Elegance and comfort combined. English and French spoken. The utmost attention and civility. A regular Table d*Hote, and Private Dinner to order. Baths in the house. Private Can iages always ready. English and French News- papers. The Hotel is open ail night. The new Proprietor, Mr. F. Volkeus, has just opened a very fine Coffee Room and a beautiful Refreshment-room, attached to the Hotel. Pension 6 frs. a day, everything inchided. W I L D B A D. H6tel Klumpp, formerly Hotel de I'Ours, Mr. W. klumpp, Pboprietob. THIS First-class Hotel, containing 36 Salons and 170 Bed-rooms, a separate Breakfast, a very extensive and elegant Dining-room, new Reading and Conversation as well as Smoking Salons, with an artificial Garden over the river, is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good cuisine and cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel. Table-d'hote at One and Five o'clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte, EXCHANGE OFFICE. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibus of the Hotel to and from each Train, Elegant private carriages^ when required. 42 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, Wl ES BAD EN» FOUR SEASOSfS HOTEL & BATHS. PBOPBIETOB, DB. ZAIS. THHIS First-Class Establislimeiit, equal to any on the -*- Rhine, is in the best and most delightful situation in the Great Square, opposite tlie Kursaal, the Theatre, the Promenades; close to the Boiling Spring and the new English Chapel. This Hotel is the largest in the place, containing a great choice of SPLENDID AUD OOMIOETABLE APAETMENTS, for Families and Single Travellers ; exquisite Cuisine and iirst-class Wines, combined with attentive service and moderate charges. TABLE D'HOTE at 1 and 5 p.m.i and PEIVATE DINNEES. i^umerous comfortable Bathing Cabinets, supplied with Hot, Mineral, and Sweet Waters. LUCERNE. HOTEL BSAtr RIYAGK Proprietor— Mr. ED. STRUB. THIS newly-established Hotel is fitted np with every comfort, aud recommends itself by its magnificent view on the Rigi, Pilatus, &c. Beautiful Gardens. Pleasure Boats, Private Saloons for ladies and families. Smoking-rooms. Baths. Variety of Newspapers. Most scrupulous attendance. Moderate prices, (iieduced prices ibr protracted visits.) Omnibus at the Railway Station. FBAIirKFOIlT-ON-MAIK-. UNION HOTEL (fo)-meriy Weidenbusch). — A Fiist-class Hotel for Families and Single Gentlemen, situated in the richest quarter of the town, near the Stathaus, the Promenade, Museum, PosL-office, and Theatre, haths, Reading and Smoking Room. Moderate Chai-ges. Arrangtmtnts by the \\ eek or Montii. BRUNO STKUBELL, Proprietor. NASSAU. Seventh Edition, with Illustrations, Post 8vo., 75. Q)d. BUBBLES fi?om tlie BRtJNNEN. By an old man. JOHN MUKKAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. ISri. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 43 FLORENCE. Messrs. Anthony Sasso & Son, Artists, 4, VIA DI BORGO 0GNIS3ANTI, Distinsuished with Medals at the Italian Kxhibition of 1861, keep the most beautiful and rich Private Gallery iu the City of Ancient and rnodern original pictures, copies of the most celebrated pictures in the Public Galleries, water-iolour paintings, and beautiful ancient carved cabinets, &c. . ♦ KN^LTSH SPOKKN. Agents and Correspondents in England and America:— Messrs. J. h R. McCKiCKEN, 33, Queen Street. Cannon Street. London, E C. :\re.ssrs. DUXCAN", SHIRM AN, & CO,, and Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN, & CO., New York. NUREMBERG. HOTEL DE BAVIEBE CBAYE3EIISCHER HOP), THIS old-established, first-class, and best situated Hotel, in the centre of the town, close to the river, contains suites of apartments and single rooms, all elegantly fdriiished in the new style. It is patronised by the most distinguished families, English Divine Service during the season. Foreign newspapers. Carriages in the Hotel, Omnibus to and from each tram. Moderate and fixed prices, HEIDELBERG. HOTEL DE UEUROPE. THIS new, magnificent, first-rate Establishment, sur- rounded by private and public gardens, with a view of the Castle, and in the very best situation in Heidelberg, enjoys an European reputation. EEADING EOOM, 'Witli Eng'lisli and. ^uxex-ican I^tipei:'^. iteduced prices for protracted stay, and for the Winter Season. HJEFELI-GUJER, Proprietdr. 44 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, VILLENEUVE. NEAR TO THE CASTLE OF CHILLON. New Proprietor, GTJSTAVE WOLFF. Same Proprietor as of the Hotel de VEcu at Geneva. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, oiferitig every comfort for an agreeable residence ; surrounded by a vast Park and a beauiitul Garden, and admirably situated for excursions to the mountains. Reading, Billiard, and Smoking; Koonis. Reduced prices for a prolonged stay. Horses and Car] in ges. Breakfa&t ; Table-d'Hote. Private Dinners at any hour. English spoken. Landing place for Steamers. Telegraph Bureau. GENEVA. (SWITZERLAND.) New Proprietor, GUSTAVE WOLFF. Also Proprietor of Hotel Byron, near Villeneuve, n'^HTS unrivalled and admirably conducted Hotel has long enjoyed an X extensive and high reputation among Travellers. Situated in the finest part of the town, and facing the lake, it commands a beautiful view of tlie environs. Its accommodation i» of 80 superior a character, that tourists will find it a highly desirable place of residence or of temporary sojourn. Table-d'Hote at 1 o'clock, 4fr. ; at 5 o'clock, 4 Ir. ArrangHuiems made with families during the winter months at very reasonable charges. New Reading and .*:?moking Rooms. GENEVA. Manufactory of Musical Boxes. SAMUEL TEOLL FILS, WHOLESALE, RETAIL, EXPORTATION. 6, EUE BONIVAED, GBOUND FLOOB, NEAR THE ENGLISH CHURCH, GENEVA. DRESDEN. GRAND HOTEL DE SAXK THIS well-known First-class Hotel, kept by Messrs. MAX and CHAKLES DO RN, has been recently enhirged and embellished. It contains 150 B'ront Rooms, and is situated in the centre of the town, at the New Square, in the immediate vicinity of all the curiosities. Table-d'Hote at one and tour o'clock, in the splendid dining-hall first-floor. Carriages, Keading-room, with English and American Papers, and Smoixing-room. M'lch reduced prices for the winter. 1871. MURRAV'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 45 DIEPPE. HOTEL EOYAL, PACING THE BEACH, Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. TT IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS i- IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish- ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo- dation, at very reasonable prices. Large Keading-room, with French and English Newspapers. The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in Murray's and other Guide Books. TaUe-d' Hote and Private Dinners, NUREMBERG. RED HORSE HOTEL (Rothes Ross), Proprietor : M. P. GALIMBb:KTI. Manager: M. BAUER. rPHIS excellent old-established Hotel, situated in one of the best quarters of the J. town, is well adapted for Tourists and Families making a visit to Nuremberg of some duration, and who will find every conceivable comfort and convenience. Table-d'Hore at 1 p.m., and Private Dinners at all hours. The Establishment will be found well worthy of the renown and patronage it has enjoyed from English travellers of the highest rank during many years. Z^OUG. STAG HOTEL. Near the Steamboat landing-place. Beautifully situated, and the best Hotel in the town. Modeiate prices. A large and elegantly fitted-up Dining Hall. Board and Residence, 5 i5^ 6 francs per day. BRUXELLES. ^PHE GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE, Rue Neuve, 77 and 79, is *- admirably situated close to the Boulevards and Theatres, and is the nearest Hotel u> the Railway Stations. J'he Hotel is considerably enlarged, and has a new Miiiiig-ro<.m vhich will contain 300 persons. Fixed pi ices:— I'lain Breakfast, l^f. ; Dinner at the Table-d'hSte, 3i t. ; Bedrooms, 4-50 f., 5-50 i., 6 f. the tirst night each bi d, Service and Candles in( ludtd ; the second night;, 3-75 r., 4-75 f., and 5-25 f ; Sitting-rooms, 3 to 12f. ; Steaks or Cutlets, l^f. T^aveller^ must beware of coachmen and conductors of omnibuses who endeavour to drive them to some otber hotel. 46 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, RHEINFALL NEUHAUSEN, SCHAFFHAUSEN. HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF. Pr.opuiETOR, Mr. wegenstein. , rrHE TTOTEIi SCHWEiZEEHOF, known to English visitors as Jl one of the best Hotels in Switzerland, has been greatly enlarged since last year, and ia now a ^plen^!i(^ first-rate fstablishmenr. The SCHVVKIZKHHOF is situate oppo.^lte the celebrated Falls of the Rhine, and sur- rounded by a fine park and garden. The position is nii^ii'passtd, the eye ranging a distance of above 180 miles — a panoiamic view including the who^e range ol the Swiss Alps and the Mont Blanc. Healthy climate. Church Service. Preserved Trout Fishing.^ Trices moderate. Pension. Hotel Omnibuses at Neuhausen and Schafifhausen. BARCELONA, GRAND HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. IiY THE RAMBLA, Kept by Messrs. FORTIS & CO. THIS is a first-rafe Establishment, arivnntap;eoiisly sitnated close to the Post-ofifice and the Theatre, with a southern aspect, and newly decorated. Table- d'hote; private servire; large and small apartments; many fire-places; baths; reading- rooms ; Spanish and foreign newspapers Carriages of every description. Omnibus at the Railway Stations. Interpreters. Moderate tt rms. HOMBURG. HOTEL DES aUATRE SAISONS. MR. SCHLOTTERBECK, Proprietor. ^HIS Hotel is of the first clnss, and enjoys a \v(4!-meriterl reputation. X It is situated near the Springs and the Cursaal. Excellent Table-dHote and Wines; the Prop'ietor is a large dealer in Wines; and endeavours to make the stay of his patrons as comfortable and pleasant as possible. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41 lyilLAN- Just opposite the Public Gardens. KEPT BY J. SUARDI AND CQ. ^pHIS fii-st-rate Hotel i8 fitted up with every modem appliance, and situated in the finest JL part of Milan. It comraHiids a fine vit^w of ihn Promenade n-^ar to the Station, the Grand Theatre, the National Museum, and the Protpstant Church. Kxcellont Tahle-d'hote. Charges very moderate. Baths on each floor. A Smoking and a Reading lloom 'supplied with foreign newspapers. Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all tv^insj. I NT E RLACH EN. HOTEL DE BELLE VUE, Kept by Mr. HERMANN RIMPS. I EXCELLENT Second-class Hotel, very well situated, containing" a -^ branch *• Pension Felsenngg," with a fine Garden attached. It has been recently enlarged and newly furnished, and contains 80 Be<'s. Boarders taken in, per day 5^ francs duriiig the months of May, June, September, October; and 6^^ francs per day during the months of July, and August. English, Hrench, and German Newspapers. Omnibuses; I'rivate Carriages, and Saddle Horses. English spoken. Moderate charges. INTERLAKEN. \\' Hotel e^xid Pension Jnnglre.!!^. Proprietor, Mr. F. SEILER. THIS excellent Hotel is situated on the finest Promenade, and is surrounded with a large andbeauti ul Garden, from which an extensive view is to be had all over the Glaciers. Kngli>h travellerfi will find at this Hotel large and small w^ell-furnished apartments and rooms for families and single tourists. Moderate charges. YOUNG GENTLEMEN, EXETER. N^^HS^^iZ't ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL. BOARD, and EDUCATION, by Rev. CATHEDRAL YARD. Rt. Thomsox, Graduate of the London LADIES' COFFEE ROOM.' and Edinburgh Universities, at 12, Rut- JJotjind Cold Baths, land bquaie, Edinburgh. • ij^, BIRKeW» Proprietor. BELLAGIO, LAKE OF COMO. HOTEL AND PENSION VILLA GIULA (CHATEAU DU ROI DES BELGES). THE undersigned has the honour to announce to Tourists that the beautitul VILLA GIULIA has be-'U transforniMi into an Hotel, and will be opened for the vSecond Season from the 1st of Al'iriL, 1871. The fine position ot tije Palace, which commands a view of the two branches of the Lnlve, a park of 250 hectares, and the beauty of the gardens, united with the comforts and conveniences \\hKh long experitnce has suggested, do not tail to mal?e a stay agreeable arid pleasant to all Travel], rs who visit it. He has the honour to anrumnce that in his Hotel "(tKaNDK BHEIAGNL," also at Bellagio, he has introriucee of the Nishny Fair (in August), and during the Carnival time (in January and February). CAUTION.— Travellers are cautioned not to confound the HOTEL BILLO with other establishments of nearly unisonous names, and to take care not to allow themselves to be led away by the Cabmen or Iswoschtschiks and other interested persons, especially at St. Petersburg, but to insist on being conducted to the HOTEL BILLO, Great Lubianka ; in Russian, Gostinnitza Blllo, Bahlivi Luhianka. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 55 TO CONTINENTAL TRAyELLERS. DOREELL & SON'S 15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. jpoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Language. -^rz^ tail, by post, on applica- g^ tion. !:::^||! Passports Mounted, and enclosed in Cases, with the name of the ji bearer impressed in gold on the outside ; thus af* fording security against injury or loss, and pre* venting delay in the , frequent examination of {©\^| the Passport when tra- =^^^ veiling. French and Italian British Subjects visit- ^ iuir the Continent will save trouble and expense by obtaining their Pass- ports through the above Agency. No personal attendance is required, and country residents may have their Pass- ports forwarded through the post. A 'Passport Prospectus,* containing every particular in de- Fee, Obtaining Visas, is. each. Cases, is. 6d. to 5s. each. THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books, Couriers' Bags, Pocket- books and Purses of every description, Travelling Inkstands, and a va- riety of other Articles useful for Travellers. CANTON DE VAUD, BEX (Switzerland). GRAND HOTEL BES SALINES, Kept by L. FELLER. HYDROPATHY, RUSSIAN BATHS, TURKISH BATHS. SALOON FOR PULVERISED SPRAY BATHS 01^ VARIOUS MINERAL A\^ATEES. Established after the newest and most perfect systems known. Consulting Doctor . DR. COSSY, LATKLY nOUSE SURGEON TO THE PARIS HOSPITAL. 56 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BY ROYAL ^^((^^^gp COMMAND. JOSEPH G I LLO T T'S CELEBRATED STE EL PE NS. Sold by all -Dealers throughout the 'World. Every Packet bears the Pac-simile ^^^^/^ / of his Signature; -^ ^ GENEVA. A. GOLAY, LERESCHE & SONS, 31, QVAl DEH BERGUES, and 1, PLAGE DU FORT, MANUFACTURERS OF WATCHES AND JEWELRY. Two large Establishments, completely furnished with goods of the newest designs. Warranted Watches of all kinds, especially of Chronometers and with complex movements. Also a very large assortment of Jewelry. House in Paris, No. 2, HUE DE LA PAIX. GEN EVA. CHATEAU DE PEANGINS. IVYOIX' STATION. THIRTY MINUTES FROM GENEVA, GEAND HOTEL, in one of the finest positions on the Lake of Geneva. Splendid View of Mont Blanc. Magnificent Terrace. Neigh- bourhood nicely shaded. Princely Habitation. Keduced Price for a Prolonged Stay. SEBILLE, Proprietor. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. ' 57 BOOKS AND MAPS FOR TRAVELLERS The Play-ground of Europe. By Leslie Stephen, late Presidant of the Alpine Club. With Four Woodcut Illustrations by E. Whympek. Crown 8vo., price Ids. {5d. Pau and the Pyrenees. By Count Henry Russell, Member of the Geographical and Geological Societies of France, of the Alpine Club, of the Societe Ramoud, &c. With Two Maps and a Panorama. Square fcap. 8vo., price 55. Guide to the Pyrenees, for the Use of Mountaineers. By Charles Packe. Second Edition, corrected; with Frontispiece and Map, and an Appendix. Crown 8vo., price 7s. 6d. Bairs Guide to the Western Alps, Mont Blanc, Monte ROSA, &:c. Including the whole range of the Alps of Piedmont, Dauphine, and Savoy, from Nice to the Pass of the Simplon. New Edition, revised, May, 1870. Post 8vo. ■with Maps, &c,, price 10s. (id. Bairs Guide to the Eastern Alps, including the Salzburg and Central Tyrolese Chains, the Styrian Alps, and the Terglou District from the Valley of the Drave to the Adriatic. New Edition, 1869. Post 8vo., with Maps, &c., price 10s. Gd. BalFs Guide to the Central Alps, including the Bernese Oberland, with Lombardy and the adjoining portion of the Tyrol. New Edition, 1S6D. Post 8vo., with Maps, &c., price 7s. 6d. Map of the Chain of Mont Blanc, from an Actual Survey in 1863-1864. By A. Adams-Reilly, F.R.G.S., M.A.C. In Chromo. lithography on extra stout Drawing l^aper 28 inches by 17 inches, price 10s. To be had also mounted on Cakvas, in a folding case, price 12s. 6rf. Map of the Valpelline, the Val Tournanche, and the Southern Valleys of the Chain of MONTE ROSA, from an actual Survey in 1865-1866. By A. Adams-Keilly, F.R.G.S., M.A.C. In Chromo-iithography, on extra stout Drawing Paper, 25 inches by 14 inches, price 6s. To be had also mounted on Canvas, folded and jointed, for Pocket or Knapsack, price 7s. Gd. The High Alps without Guides; being a Narrative of Adventures in Switzerland, together with Chapters on the Practicahility of such mode of Mountaineering, and Suggestions for its Accomplishment. By the Rev. A. G. Gikdle- stone, M.A. SVith Frontispiece and Two Maps. Square crown 8vo., price 7s. Qd. Cadore, or Titian's Country. By Josiah Gilbert, one of the Authors of the 'Dolomite Mountains.' With Map, Facsimile, and 40 Illustrationa. Imperial 8vo., price 31s. Qd. Zigzagging amongst Dolomites. By the Author of ' How we Spent the Summer.' With upwards of Three Hundred Illustrations in fac* fcioiile of Original Sketches by the Author. Oblong 4to., price 15s. Travels in the Central Caucasus and Bashan, including Visits to Ararat and Tabreez and Ascents of Kazbek and P]lbruz. By Douglas W. Fkeishfikld. Wiih Maps and Illustrations. Square crown 8vo., price 18s. LONDON : LONGMANS, GREEN & CO., PATERNOSTER ROW. 58 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVKRTISER, May, GENEVA. No. 2, PLACE DES BERGUES. GEO. BAKER, ENGLISH CHEMIST AND DRUGGIST, PKESCEIPTIONS CAKEFULLY PREPAEED. ALL KINDS OF FA TENT MEDICINES & FERFUMEIIY. Homoeopathic Preparations. Soda and Saratoga "Water. Medicines and Preparations forwarded with the greatest despatch and safety to all parts of Switzerland by Post. ROME. 17 & 18, VIA DELLA MEEOEDE. GEO. BAKER, JKIVOLISH CHEMLIST, GEIVEVA, INFORMS the Inhabitants and Visitors of Rome that he has opened an Establishment at the above address, for the supply of English specialities and goods adapted for the use of Families at j)rices far inferior to those hitherto charged in Rome. NICE. PHARMACIE DANIEL ET C"=' QUAI MASSENA. GEO. BAKEPv, JEjVOX-ISH: CHEMIIST OF GEIVJEVA, INFORMS the Visitors and Residents of Nice, that he lias succeeded to the above old established and justly renowned Pharmacy, and that having associated with him Mr. GEORGE BUSBY, who for nine years past has been Assistant Manager of it, he hopes by careful attention and a moderate Scale of Charges, not only to maintain, but to extend, its ancient and well deserved reputation. 1871. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVP^RTISER. 59 THE FUMISHINa OF BED-ROOMS. HEAL & SON have 16 separate Eooms, each completely furnished ^vitll II different Suite of Furniture, irrespective of their general Stock displayed in Six Galleries and Two Large Ground-floor Warerooms, the whole forming the most complete stock of Bed-room Furniture in the Kingdom. Japanned Deal Goods may be seen in complete suites of five or six different colours, some of them light and ornamental, and others of a plainer description. Suites of Stained Deal Gothic Furniture, Polished Deal, Oak, and Walnut, are also set apart for separate rooms, so that customers are able to see the effect as it would appear in their own rooms. A Suite of very superior Gothic Oak Furniture will generally be kept in stock, and from time to time new and select Furniture in various woods will be added. Bed Furnitures are fitted to the Bedsteads in large numbers, so that a complete assortment may be seen, and the effect of any particular pattern ascertained as it would appear on the Bedstead. A very larsfe stock of Bedding (HEAL & SON'S original trade) is placed on the BEDSTEADS. The Stock of Mahogany Goods for the better Bed-rooms, and Japanned Goods for plain and Servants' use, is very greatly increased. The entire Stock is arranged in sixteen rooms, six galleries, each 120 feet long, and large ground-floors, the whole forming as complete an assortment of Bed- room Fm-niture as they think can possibly be desired. Every attention is paid to the manufacture of the Cabinet work and they liave large Workshops on the premises for this purpose, that the manufacture may be under their own immediate care. Their Bedding trade receives their constant and personal attention, every article being made on the premises. They particularly call attention to their Patent Spring Mattiass, the Soramier Elastique Portatif. It is portable, durable, and elastic, and lower in price than the old Spring Mattrass. HEAL AND SON'S ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF BEDSTEADS, BEDDING, & BED-ROOM FURNITURE, SENT FREE BY POST. 196, 197, 198, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD. /' 60 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, VISITORS TO NAPLES. GENEEAL AGENCY & COMMISSION OFFICE of the BEITISH LIBRAEY (Established in 1837 by Mrs. I)orant\ DIRECTED Br GEORGE CIVALLEEI, Palazzo Friozzi, Nd. 267, Riviera di Chiaja. ' WORKS OF ART, GOODS, AND LUGGAGE forwarded to and received from all parts of the world, and warehoused at moderate charges of rent. BANK BILLS, CIRCULAR NOTES, AND LETTERS OF CREDIT cashed free of commission. courfTZiir ixtzsjes of ev£:rv bescrxptzois-, both in Bottle and in Cask, for exportation, at reduced prices. FOREIGN WINES, ENGLISH BEERS, TEAS, #c., IMPORTED. Agency Business of every description attended to; also the PURCHASE of LANDS, HOUSES, or VILLAS for the account of Foreigners. Correspondents i Messrs. OLIVIER & CO., 37, Finsbury Square. in London t Messrs. CHARLES CARR & Co., 14, Bishopsgate Street. FLORENCE. 12, ijTJisrG-' j^-Risra 3sall, Tamworth. Map. Post Svo. 7s. 6d. SHROPSHIRE, CHESHIRE, and LANCASHIRE.— Shrewsbury, Ludlow, Briponorth, Oswestry, Chester, Crkwe, Alderley, Stockport, Birkeni HEAD, Warrington, Bury, Manchester, Liverpool, Burnley, Clithercw Bdlton, Blackburn, Wigan, Preston, Rochdale, Lancaster, Southpor: L> LACKPOOL, &c. Map. Post Svo. 10«. YORKSHIRE — Doncaster, Hull, Selby, Beverley, Scarborough, Whitby, Harrogate, Ripon, Lekds, Wakefield, Bradford, Halifax, Huddersfield, Sheffield. Map and Plaus. Post Svo. 12«. DURHAM AND NORTHUMBERLAND— Newcastle, Darlington, Bishop Auckland, Stockton, Hartlepool, Sunderland, Shields, Berwick, Tynet MOUTH, Alnwick. Map. Post Svo. X)s. WESTMORLAND AND CUAIBERLAND— Lancaster, Furness Abbey, Ambleside, Kendal, Windermerk, Coniston, KnswicK, Grasmkre, Carlisle, CocKiiRMouTH, Penkith, Appleby. Map. Post Svo. tj<. *^* Murray's Map of the Lakes, on canvas. 3s. 6d. NORTH AND SOUTH WALES— Bangor, Carnarvon, Beaumaris, Snow- don, Conway, Carmarthen, Tenby, Swansea, and the Wye. Maps, 2 vols. Post Svo. 12«. SCOTLAND. — Edinburgh, INIelrose, Kelso, Glasgow, Dumfries, Ayr, Stirling, Arran, The Clyde, Oban, Inverarv, Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine and Trosachs, Caledonian Canal, Inverness, Pkkth, Dundee, Aberdeen, Braemar, Skye, Caithness, Ross, and Sutherland. Maps and Plans. Post Svo. Os. IRELAND. — Dublin, Belfast, Donegal, Galw^ay, Wexford, Cork, Limerick, Waterford, Killarney, Munster. Maps. Post Svo. 1'2«. CATHEDRALS OF ENGLAND. SOUTHEIiN CATHEDRALS— Winchester, Salisbury, Exeter, Welt.s, Rochester, Canterbury, AND Chichcstkr. Illustrations. 2 vols, crown Svo. 2U. EASTERN CATHEDRALS— Oxford, Peterborough, Ely, Norwich, and Lincoln. Illustrations. Crown Svo. 18«. WESTERN CATHEDRALS— Bristol, Gloucester, Heufjord, Worcester, AND Lichfield. Illustrations. Crown Svo. IQs. NORTHEHN CATHEDRALS— York, Ripon, Durham, Carlisle, Chester, AND .AIanchlster. lllustratlons. 2 vols. 2U.