LIBRARY OF THL UNIVLRSITY Of ILLl NOI5 X 266 P68£ i860 Hlijois llistoricsl Survey LIGHTS MJ) SHADES OF MISSIONARY LIFE: C O N T A I N I X G TEA^TJILS, SKETCHES, IXCIDENTS, AND MISSIONARY EFFORTS, DURING NINE YEARS SPENT IN THE REGION OF LAKE SUPERIOR. BY PtEV. JOHX H. PITEZEL, »» • ALIAS, WA-ZAH-WAJI-WA-DOOXG, OK '• THE YELLOW BE.\.IU).' "Every matter in the universe is linked in siacli wise unto others, That a deep, full treatise upon one thing might reach to the history of all things." Toter. C I X C I X X A T I : PRINTED AT THE WESTERN BOOK CONCERN, FOR THE AUTHOR. K. P. THOMPSOX, PRIN'TEK. '1800. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, BY JOnX H. PITEZEL, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court fo." the Southern District of Ohio. PKEFACE. Vaeiety is said to be the " spice of life." In general this sufficiently marks the devious walks of human hfe to break the spell of monotony. But of some stations this is more especially true. In suchj if not more frequent, it is at least more marked. The ^'ups and downs" differ like hil- locks when compared mth cragged and steep mountains. To some the transition is greater from toil to rest, from imminent danger to safety: consequently, the thermometer, indicatuag the de- grees of pleasure or distress felt, is subject to rise higher or fall lower, proportionately. The life of a missionary, in a wild and unculti- vated field, is far from being monotonous. He is constantly brought into contact with extremes. His Hfe is often a checkered scene not all made 3 497039 4 PREFACE. up of thorns, not all of clouds and storms. The cheerful sunlight often breaks in upon his path. Hardship itself imparts a po^Yer of endurance not a gift of nature, enabling its possessor to frown down formidable obstacles. It is often the lot of missionaries to wade through the deepest trials and experience the greatest consolations. The sketches given in the following narrative, it is hoped, may not prove entirely uninteresting to the indulgent reader. Often it is. the case that, in new and unsettled portions of the country, the travels and labors of missionaries form an import- ant link in its after history. And without these, the history of the Church can not be fairly writ- ten; and unless the missionary make the record, it is not likely to be made by others. Indeed, in many instances, none but he can make it. ]\Iuch of the early history of the vast territory stretching along Lakes Huron and Superior, and extending far into the western wilds, has been gleaned from the accounts of Jesuit missionaries. P K i: FACE Wc can not but admne the pains taken by Ma- caulay, in his History of England, to describe what England was a hundred and fifty years ago, compared with what England is now. So when we read over the privations and conflicts of the early settlers of our own country, we are inspired with gratitude at the onward march of improve- ment and our own superior advantages. The means of conveyance; the different methods of travel; the difference between the exposures of the wilderness and the comforts of a country where the forests have been cleared and towns and cities have sprung up, with all the new inventions for annihilating distance and labor, weigh not a little in the scale. It is certainly not unworthy of note whether, in crossing the great deep, we are to be conveyed in a bark canoe, an open boat, in filthy and uncomfortable schooners, the proud brig, or the stately steamer, where ease itself becomes painful and luxury begets loathing. Nor is it of less interest whether journeys made by land 6 PREFACE. be performed on foot, with the aid of snow-shoes, through a wintery wilderness where the habitation of man is seldom seen, where the pedestrian is compelled to shoulder his own bed and ne-ioali-jyoo, or provisions, and erect his rade shelter of boughs for temporary sojourn, or whether the route is the beautiful turnpike over which the traveler rolls on elhptic springs, finding, at frequent intervals, com- modious inns, or flies, in the rail-car, over mount- ain and valley. In a letter from Rev. D. P. Kidder, D. D., in reference to the unpretending work now offered to the public, he says : " Indeed, I think it the duty of those who can, to furnish the Church with suit- able records of their missionary labors, and to per- petuate some knowledge of the aboriginal races of our continent, now so fast fading away." Such has been the aim of the writer, so far as his mate- rial and the time he could devote to this work would admit. How far he has succeeded is left to the good sense and judgment of the reader. PREFACE. 7 Tremblingly hoping that this little volume may be acceptable to ministers and members of the Methodist Episcopal Church and the reading pub- he generally, and that its influence, as far as it extends, may tend to promote the great mission- ary cause, and thus advance the E-edeemer's king- dom in the salvation of man, it is now sent forth without apology. J. H. PiTEZEL. Faw Paw, Mich., June 5, 1857. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Author appointed missionary — A new era — Missionary spirit — Arrive at Detroit — John Owen— J. S. Harrison — Geo. "W. Brown — Sabbath — Steamer Constitution — Accommodations — Lake St. Clair — Scenery — Indians — Wesleyan missionaries — Lake Huron — Reunion — Saginaw Bay — Island of Mackinaw — Indian lodges — Indian annuity — "Big Tur- tle " — ilr. Balotes — Traders — Whisky — Drunkenness — Results — Mr. Stuart — Transparent waters — A Christian Indian family — Rer. Mr. Daugherty — Catholicism — Its time-serving policy — Fort Mackinaw — ■ Rev. Mr. O'Bryan — Fort Holmes — Sugar Loaf — Arch Rock — The Scenery — Poetical impromptu — Preaching — "General Scott" — Garden River— Saut Ste. Marie— James Ord, Esq.— Fort Brady— Rev. W. H. Brockway Page 21 CHAPTER II. Saut Ste. Marie mission — John Kah-beege — Introduction to the mission — ■ Mission-house — Gloomy aspect — Improvement — Site of the mission- Scenery — Religioxis aspect — Indian devotion — First Sabbath — Preach- ing — Indian meetings — S. Spates — Family worship — S. Hall — Schools — Domestic cares — Roman Catholic Indians — "Wedding — Christmas and New Year — Baptism — Sunrise scenery — Travels — Nimrod — Scene of wigwams — Domestic scene — Indian heathenism — Fishes and Fishing — Close of winter — Summer — Visitors — Temptation — Sabbath desecra- tion — Notes of Study — Close of the year — Appointment to the Kewa- wenon mission 35 CHAPTER III. Voyage to Kewawenon — Outfit — Embarkation — Rough waters — Grand Sable — Pictured Rocks — Grand Island — Dead River — Arrival Gl 9 10 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Kewav/'enon mission — Kewenaw Bay — " UAnae " — Indian cabins — Prepa- rations for winter — Mr. and ^Mi'S. Marksman — Produce from the mission garden — Furniture — Sclaools — Sabbatli school — Scarlet fever — Manual labor — Religious aspect — Indian membership — Meetings — Encouraging tokens — Severity of winter — Providential deliverance Page 72 CHAPTEE V. Trip to La Pointe — The canoe — The company — Wind-bound — Coasting — James Schoolcraft — Heavy sea — Missionaries of American Board — Their mission — Religious exercises — S. Hall — New Testament in Ojibwa— Rev. Mr. Wheeler — Schools — Hospitality — Indians from the woods^ Their condition — Their wretchedness — War-dance and heathen burial — Indian burial — The feast — Return — Becalmed — Rock Harbor — Copper Harbor — A Jix — Dr. Houghton — Bay Degree — Hazardous landing — Dreary night — Unsuccessful attempt to re-embark— Sabbath— Arrive at the mission 86 CHAPTEE YI. Second year — Potato crop — Eagle river — Author dubbed Captain — G. Bedell — Backslidings and revivals — '"'Man's extremity, God's opportu- nity"— Christmas eve — Pastoral visiting — David King — Indian notion of weeping — Rowdies — Accession to the Church — Fiery trials — Better days — Travels — Chief Monomonee — Efforts of a Catholic priest — Outfit for traveling — Character of the country — Lodging at night — Carp river — Hospitable reception — Snow-shoe lameness — Contrivance for the emergency — Indian treatment for the case — W. B,— His misrepresenta- tion — Reach home — Handicraft — Making shoes — Fortune seekers — Town election — Author attends conference at Marshall 104 CHAPTEE VII. Interesting conference — Author reappointed to Kewawenon mission — J. W. Holt, assistant— Arrive at the Saut— Schooner Fur Trader — Fair ■winds and deceitful prospects — Head winds and heavy seas — Imminent danger — Panic among the passengers — Uncomfortable condition— Cap- tain R. and his crew — Driven back to Fort Brady— Captain B. — Grand Island— Mr. W. — His family — Arrival home — Mr. B.~His sudden death — Silver mountain — A mine in prospect — Location a bone of contention — Disappointment and loss — The uncertainty of worldly riches 121 CONTENTS. 11 CHAPTER YIII. TiTSt visit among the miners— Reception— Preaching and traveling— Re- turning— Bewildered— Wanderings by day— Lodging by night— Fare in the wilderness— Impassable swamps— Situation perplexing:^Comes to Portage river — Is relieved by a boat — Author reaches home after much fatigue and suffering— Statistical table— Subsequent visits among the miners — State of things at Kewawenon — Conversion of J. T. and wife from Popery — Erection of a church — The young Indian, Joshua Soule — His sad end— Visits of the Superintendent Page 131 CHAPTER IX. Michigan annual conference— A change — Difficulties — P. 0. Johnson and ^ife_The new field— The cabin— Wants supplied— ^Jslining— The per- petual din— Speculation— '•Humbug"—Tisitations— The English min- ers— German and Irish— Baeksliding—ileeting-place— Dancing— Author invited to a Christmas ball— Declines the invitation— Four reasons for declining — Some favorable characteristics among the miners — Congre- gational singing • "l^O CHAPTER X. Eagle river— Origin of the name— The town— The cliff— View from the top— Trouble— Soil— Farming— Picturesque scenery— Number of work- men at the Cliff Mine — Captain Jennings — L. Hanna— Character of the miners— A look into the mine — The stamps — Monthly amount of copper mined — The tdiim — The sheer — Preparations to enter the mine — The descent by ladders — The stnll, or x>ent-hoitse — Exceeding richness of the mine — Best time for visiting the mine — The various operations of the workmen 165 CHAPTER XI. Close of the conference year — Conference at Kalamazoo — Delightful Sab- bath at sea— Public worship — Author tarries at the Saut during con- ference — New acquaintances — Little Rapids — Favorable religious as pect — Mr. Richmond — Ramsey Crooks — Mrs. Hanna — Rough sea- Arrival at Copper Harbor — Author appointed Superintendent of the missions in the District — Birth of a son — Arrival of missionaries — Case of delirium tremens — Arrival at the Saut — A new home — Reflections — Sad end of a drunken Indian — Dreadful influence of rum upon the Indians 1 '^•i 12 C0^' TENTS. CHAPTEE XII. Visit to (harden river — Trips to Naomikong — Cold jonrney — Eeacli Cart J river — Te-quali-me-non — The old squaw — King-hawk — Kah-ha-no- ., den — Interview with him — Return to Kaomikong — Waishkees Bay — ■■♦ Reach home — Trip during the "crust-moon" — Derivation of the name — ^J\odaway — The Ojibwas — Slaughter of the Nodaway — Indian medicine 'men — Ceremonies of initiation — Precepts binding upon medicine men — Caraboo meat — She-gud — Interesting love-feast — xin aged widow — Re- turn home Page 187 CHAPTER XIII. Summer tour among the missions — Arrive at La Pointe — Preaching aboard ship — Schooner exchanged for a canoe— Appropriate Scripture reading— Sabbath on shore— A heavy storm— Reach St. Louis river- Fond du Lac mission — Fall of the native missionary — Slight progress at the mission — Indian council — The chief, Shingobc — Author addresses the Indians — Nah-gah-nup replies — Author rejoins — Xah-gah-nup re- plies again — The head chief speaks — Discouraging prospect for Sandy Lake — Interview with Dr. Norwood — The route — Reach Knife Port- age — Grand Rapids— Difficult ascent— Tempest— Musketoes— Arrive at Sandy Lake — A conjurer — His maneuvers — Modern spiritualism — Council — Sandy Lake mission — Contest between paganism and Chris- tianity—Leave Sandy Lake— Sabbath at La Pointe— Arrive at Kewa- wenon — Mrs. Barnum — Kewawenon mission — Baptism — Arrive at Eagle river — Eagle River mission — Arrival home 200 CHAPTER XIY. Saut de Ste. Marie mission — Little Rapids — J. D. Bingham — P. 0. John- son — National fast — Appearance of cholera — Death of Mr. Stevens and Captain Hicks— Other deaths— Embark for Detroit— Arrive at Adrian, the seat of the conference — Dr. Hinman — An interesting conference — Return to Saut Ste. Marie — Missionaries in company 221 CHAPTER XY. Naomikong — A new mission-house — Collecting the materials — Return home — A second trip to Naomikong — A third trip — Memorable love- feast— Additions to the Church — Mother Waishkee — Remarkable Instance of filial affection — Fourth trip — Return— Sermon on the occasion of the death of Zachary Taylor, President of the United States - 22'^ CONTENTS. 13 CHAPTER XYI. Trip to Sandy Lake — Mr. Sawyer — Rough sea— Precarious situation — Storm ceases — Safe arrival — Fort Wilkins 7— Grand Portage — Mrs. Hughs — East Savan river — Xo-ko-mis — War-dance — Appearance of the savages — Speech of an old chief — Martin Luther's speech — Another speech of the chief — His marriage — Baptism of his children — Astonish- ment of the wild Indians — Famine — Dreadful suffering — Cannibal- ism Page 234 CHAPTER XYII. Return from Sandy Lake — A storm — Reach Grand Portage — Wind- -. bound — Reflections — Reading — Trial of faith necessary — Yoyage con- tinued — Great boat — Reach La Pointe — Mr. Oaks — Black river — Drunken squaw — Land at Iron river — A trying day — Reach Ontonagon — 3Irs. Douglas — The fatal cup — Fatal results — John Southwind — David King — Mr. Sheldon — D. D. Brockway — Arrive at the Saut 249 CHAPTER XYIII. Condition of the missions — The extreme posts — Kewawenon — Labors of Mr. Crane — His success and sorrows — Eagle river — The Saut — Mis- sionary news — Condition of Sunday schools — "Angels unawares"— John Petei-son — Rev. A. Atwood — Liberality of Mr. Peterson — En route for conference — Arrive at Detroit — Tiffin City — Great changes — Adrian — • Albion — Interesting session — Winter supplies — Arrival at the Saut — • Death of little Henry — Sorrow — Dr. Durbin 264 CHAPTER XIX. Quarterly meeting at Naomikong — Snow — Illness — Improvements — Relig- ious prospects — Interesting meeting — Sacrifices — Author takes charge of a school — Temperance — Meetings and lectures — Result — ilysterioua disease — Deaths — Collision on the Lake — Foundering of the Manhat- tan — Lives saved 274 CHAPTER XX. Visits among the missions— Entering the St. Louis river— Arrive at Fond du Lac — Sandy Lake — Mrs. Spates — Public worship — Sermon to the Indians — Behavior of a heathen Indian — Lawlessness — Route home- ward — Bad River station — Musketoes and gnats — Rough sea — Ontona- gon river— Minncsotii iMiuc— The Monticello— Independence— Manner 14 CONTENTS. of the Author's spending the day — Kog-wa-on — What he said to the missionary — The missionary's reply — Phoenix Mine — Arrival at the Saut Page 283 CHAPTER XXI. Impediments to the evangelization of the Indians — Removal of the place of payment — Destitute situation of the Indians at Sandy Lake — Sick- ness and death — Numerous graves — Destruction of canoes — Distress of the Indians — Report of the missions as published — Saut Ste. Marie — Naomikong — Waishkees Bay — Kewawenon — Carp river — Sandy Lake and Mill Lac — Fond du Lac— Eagle river — Ontonagon 298 CHAPTER XXII. Author commences the labors of another year — Improvements at Naomi- kong— Rev. Mr. M'Dougall— S. P. Church— Trip to the Bruce Mine- Cordial welcome — Temperance speeches — Preaching — Baptism and the Lord's supper — Return home— Trip to Naomikong — Difficult traveling- Preaching and awakening 312^ CHAPTER XXIII. Religious prospect at Saut Ste. Marie — Increased attention and interest- Rev. Mr. Porter and Rev. Mr. Bingham — Rev. John Clark — Conversion of a lady — Her great joy in God — Author visits her husband and other soldiers in the For> — Some interest — Conversions — A class organized — An incident — Interesting meetings— The inebriate — Melancholy cas- ualty — Death of a wicked man— His funeral 321 CHAPTER XXIV. Author commences a tour of visitation — Steamer Baltimore — Accommo- dation? — Reading — Contrast— Marquette — Mr. and Mrs. Benson — Mrs. Barnum — Kewawenon — Appearance of the mission — Mr. Barnum's mis- sionary report — Quarterly meeting— Council — Rev. S. Steele— E. H. Day — Visit to various mines — Man killed by falling — lilness— Dr. Senter — Reach home — Trip to Carp river — Great change wrought around Lake Superior — Return— Providencc—Summerficld — National discourse 332 CHAPTER XXV. Camp meeting at White Fish Point— Published account— Rev, L. War- ner—His preaching — Peter Jones — Description of him— Sallows, CONTENTS. 15 M'Dougall, and Blaker — Indians at the meeting— Their conduct— Mar- riage — Missionary meeting — Love-feast and sacrament — Remarks at the lov'c-fcast — Close of the meeting — Indian christening — Temperance meeting — Peter Jones's account of the temperance meeting- -Page 345 CHAPTER XXVI. Revival at the Saut— Declension — Troops at the Fort ordered to Califor- nia — Sergeant 31. and family — Remove to "Wisconsin — Members left — The congregation— Sunday School — Naomikong — Prosperity — Extract from the annual report — Deaths — Dying sister — Account of a pagan •woman— Revival meetings — Statistics — Day school — Sabbath school — The children — Value of the mission property — Houses built by the Indians — Industrial pursuits among them— Camp meeting — Small-pox at the Saut — Kewawenon— Report — Usual prosperity— Indians con- verted — Number of members — The schools — Eagle River mission — A laborious field — S. Steele — Well sustained— A prosperous year- !Mis- sionary money raised — German mission — Statistics of Church and Sab- bath school— Letter from S. Steele to the author — Ontonagon— E. H. [^ Day— His labors encouraged by the people— Sunday school statistics — Carp river — Great iron mines — Rev. William Benson — Failure of sup- Xjlies— Result— Supplies forwarded — "Old stamp" Methodists— Another call for missionary help — Isle Royal — Lumbermen visited — General tables of statistics - 363 CHAPTER XXVII. Communication from Dr. Durbin — Transfer of missions to Wisconsin con- ference — Author and family embark for Detroit — Rev. Mr. M'Dougall— Touch at Mackinaw — Steamer Atlantic — Reflections on the close of tho conference year — Arrive at Detroit — Toledo — Cholera — Confined mostly to emigrants and the intemperate— Reach Adrian — Pleasant greetings — Great changes — Reach Chicago — Arrive at Sheboygan — Fond du Lac — The conference— Its appearance — Rev. E. Yocum— W. H. Sampson — Dr. Adams— Rev. C. Hobart — Sabbath meetings— Conference love- feast- Sermon of Bishop Ames— Its character — Catholic priest — His meetings — Michigan conference — Pleasant home — Preaching — Bishop Scott — Agreeable session — Author appointed to Kalamazoo station- Reflections on leaving the mission district — Reach Adrian and Albion — An-ivc at Kalamazoo — The new charge — Journey to the Saut — Packing for removal — Missionaries — Sabbath — Farewell sermon — Rev. James Shaw — Last moments in the empty house — Huruiliation, joy, and conse- cration — Last visit to little Henry's grave — Resignation and hope — Homeward bound — Arrive at Kalamazoo S75 16 CONTENTS CHAPTER XXYIII. Woman — Her part in the missionary work — The Christian lady at an Indian mission — New sights, sounds, and influences — Her associates — The charm and romance at first — The spell broken — Sympathy with the ' P;:ialmist — Domestic cares — Burdensome visitations — Training of chil- dren — Partnership of the wife in the labors and sufferings of her hus- band — Contrast of housewifery at the Protestant and Catholic stations — Long absences of the husband — Letter from a missionary's wife to her husband — Travels of the female missionary — Hardships incident — Re- volting scenes — Letter from Mrs. Spates to Mrs. Pitezel — Desolation and famine — Potatoes the principal food — Great moral darkness •• Page 385 CHAPTER XXIX. Indian characteristics — His affection for his traditional history — The sad coming of the " pale faces " — A superficial glance not sufficient to esti- mate properly the Indian — The shades of -the wilderness his home — The blessings of civilized life absent — The seeming natural inference — Thfj Indian's want of opportunity — Fate of such as have resided among Indians — Names of renown — Intellectual capacity of such unquestion- able — Fine specimens of impassioned eloquence — Speech of Sastarexy pending the giving up of Le Pesant — Speech of Logan after all his relatives had been murdered — Speech of Black-Hawk after failing to effect the deliverance of his people — Indians imitative beings — Skill of Indian women — Progress in the various arts of civilization — Indian love of liberty and independence — Indian history a history of wars — ■ Savage ferocity and cruelty in war — Mr. Frost's testimony on this sub- ject — Treachery — Indians seldom aggressors — Degradation of Indian women — The term woman a reproach — Gov. Cass and the disgraced Indian — Drudgery devolves upon the women — This not compulsory but voluntary — Simplicity of their language — Expressive terms — Coat of arms — Indian mythology and religion — Extract from Hall's Life of Clark — The Great Spirit — Polytheism — Divers divinities— Sacrificial offerings — Superstition — The priesthood — Universal deluge — Incarna- tion — Idolatrous and polytheistic worship— Signification of Ifaekinaw — Sacred rock in St. Louis river — Ma-ne-hu-zlio, of the Ojibwas — Imago representing this god — Greatest blessings attributed to him — Longfel- low's song of Hiawatha 398 CHAPTER XXX. Plea for Indian missions— Skepticism on this subject — Opinion of a gen- tleman of learning and talent— Reports of Messrs. Foster and "Whitney — CONTEXTS. 17 Their disparaging statement of the result of Christian missions — The assumption denied as unfounded — Heaven's mandate to be obeyed — Eesult of the Iniian wars — Statements of Government ofiBcers corrob- orate the favorable reports of missionaries — Mr. Tyler's message, 1842 — Extract — Argument from the few as yet Christianized — Ratio of con- verted Indians to the whole favoi-able — Results of the Christianizing process— Wesleyan missionaries in Canada— Speech of Yellow Head, head chief of the Chippewas— Speech of Penashe, chief at Kewawe- nou, in reply to Yellow Head — Clear testimony of these speeches touch- ing the power of the Gospel upon the Indian — Indians a part of the "purchased possession" — Christianity a debtor to the Indian — The Indian's choice is between two alternatives : Christian civilization or extinction — Encouragement from prophecy Page 41 CHAPTEK XXXI. Lake Superior region — Its exhaustless wealth — Hitherto mostly un- known — Great change — Commerce, mining, and agriculture — Reports of Messrs. Foster and Whitney — Dr. Houghton — His important servi- ces — The Jesuit missionaries — Xative copper — How regarded by the Indians — Alexander Henry — ^Mining since 1844 — Mining four hundred years ago— Samuel 0. Knapp — Extract from Foster and Whitney's reports — Proof of high antiquity from the forest trees over the works — No traditions of the ancient mines — Lake Superior region not adayjted to farming purposes — Soil of the south shore — Surprising rapidity of vegetation — Products — Fisheries and pineries the principal matters of commerce — Saut Ste. Marie canal — Advantages and attractions of the Lake Superior region — Romantic scenery — Setting sun — Aurora bore- alis-T-Mirage — Late twilight and early dawn — State of society not fa- vorable—Laxity of morals — ^A proud destiny in the future — Con- clusion 422 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF MISSIONARY LIFE. ■mp LIGHTS AND SHADES OP missiojn^art life CHAPTER I. APPOINTMENT AS JIISSIONARY — VOYAGE TO THE SAUT. At the Michigan annual conference, held at Ann Arbor, August 16, 1843, Rev. W. H. Brockwaj, then superintendent of the Indian missions of Lake Superior, applied to me to go as a missionary into his district. After prayerfully considering the ms ^j^ ter, I gave my consent, in case the Bishop shouW^ - assijin me such a field. In a free conference Tvith '- Mr. Brockway and Bishop Soule, it was arranged that Tve should take charge of the misi^iop. at Saut de Ste. Marie. To make the needful preparation, with the least possible delay, I left the conference in session, and repaired to Adrian, near which was Mrs. P. and our only child, then in her third year, at a sister's. I had before formed some idea of the ruggedness of that northern clime, and of the obstacles in the way of missionary effort ; and future experiment proved that they were not overrated. No one, who 22 LIGHTS AXD SHADES OF values the priceless blessings of civilized society, can consent to part mth. them ^vitliout a struggle, and delve into such scenes as fill every land of paganism. To embark in this enterprise put the faith and reso- lution of Mrs. P. to a severe test. Her friends also felt as if vre were about to be exiled. But sober second thought chased away gloomy apprehensions, and led to hopeful trust in God. I felt to look upon this date as a new era in my life. The missionary fire had before been enkindled in my heart, and an inward desire to cultivate mission ground; but up to this time no door seemed to open to me. I had made the language of the poet my own : " Should Providence command me to the farthest yerge of the green earth, To distant barb'rous climes, 'Tis naught to me, since he is ever present, ever felt, In the void waste as in the city full. And where he vital breathes there must be joy." The language of my heart, as recorded at the time, was, "Hitherto the Lprd hatF^helped us, and here by his grace will we raise our Ebexezee." August 25th we left Adrian, taking with us Mrs. P.'s sister, then a girl twelve years of age, for De- troit, via Monroe, where we arrived in the evening. The next day we were disappointed in the boat which was to take us to Detroit. Mr. Goodenough, the landlord, kindly furnished us with a good two-horse buggy, and sent his son to drive. After a ride of forty miles, through heat and dust, we arrived safely m Detroit. After the first night, during which we MISSIONARY LIFE. 23 lodged at a tavern, "sve were kindly cared for under the roof of Mr. John Owen, long and widely known as a leading citizen of Detroit, and an influential member of the Methodist Ej^iscopal Church. Sunday morning we heard Rev. J. S. Harrison preach his introductory sermon, from Galatians vi, 14. In the afternoon Rev. Geo. W. Brown, a missionary bound for Kewawenon, Lake Superior, preached. At night it was my privilege to speak to a very large and attentive audience, on the amazing love of God to a lost world, from John iii, 16. To me it was a profitable season, and I trust it was not a lost oppor- tunity to others. It seemed to me a matter of doubt whether I should ever again stand before such an intelligent congregation of white people. But this was resigned to Him whose I was and whom I served. The day throughout was hallowed by the presence and blessing of God. Tuesday, 29th, afte^ pleasant stay of three days in the city, we were glad to take the steamer Con- stitution, bound for Mackmaw. We lay at the dock till two o'clock the next morning. Accommodations on board were very poor. Wife, daughter, and sister found lodscinsrs in the ladies' cabin. I received a miserable berth in another part of the boat, and, being slightly unwell, much fatigued, and lodged in a sultry berth, I rested but little and slept less. In the morn- incr we were in the beautiful little Lake St. Clair. Our way thence into the St. Clair river and up its rapid and pure current into Lake Huron, is too near 24 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Lome, and has been too often described, to need mi- nute attention here. It is enough to say that we were charmed all the way with the picturesque scenery, both on the British and "the American shore. Spa- cious farms, neat dwellings, smiling villas, and charm- ing landscapes stretch along the banks of that majestic river. Kear Port Sarnia we felt an interest in ob- serving a number of Indians sporting on the shore. On the rising ground, for a long distance, appeared their neat and comfortable-looking cabins, connected with well-cultivated fields, affording proof of a near approach to civilization. They are under the care of British Wesleyan missionaries, who have done a great work for the Canada Indians. The mission buildings are on a slightly-elevated spot, and look tasteful and inviting. "VYe had soon passed Port Huron and Fort Gratiot, and were, anon, laying our course across the majestic Lake Huron. It was de- lightful weather, with scarcely a ruffle on the water. We were happy to have, as Slociates, Rev. Greorge ^Y. Brown and his estimable wife, who had but re- cently given him her hand and heart, as the com- panion of his joys and sorrows in his self-denying itinerancy. Brother B. and myself had spent several years together, in the same village, when boys. We had, for a time, attended a literary institution to- gether. When but a youthful exhorter I had been permitted to point him to the Lamb of God, and invite him to the altar, where our prayers and tears were mingled and our hearts made to rejoice at his MISSIONARY LIFE. 25 happy deliverance. Once more we found ourselves united in the noblest •\\-ork to which man was ever called — a mission of love and salvation to perishing heathen. During this delightful trip the Lake was often made to echo the hymns and spiritual songs of the little band. AThat mystery is there in the ways of Providence ! That night we crossed Saginaw Bay. It was suc- ceeded by another beautiful day. The sun seemed to burst upon the world, from the bosom of the deep, like a globe of fire, sending out his golden beams, as if to enliven the scenes around us, already wearing an aspect of loveliness. We had soon neared the land, and swept gracefully by points, islands, and landscapes on the American shore, which I shall not detain the reader to describe. A little before noon we came in full view of the lofty island of Mackinaw, about three hundred feet high above the level of the Lake. From its summit frowned upon us -the im- posing battery of the Fort. Situated at its base is the village, comprising several hundred inhabitants, mostly French, Indian, and half-breeds. As we drew near we could see the shore dotted with Indian lodges, in the shape of pyramids, looking, in the distance, like so many ant heaps. The Indians, three or four thousand in number, and about twenty-five cliiefs, were here to receive their annuity — some of them from a distance of two or three hundi-ed miles. They were to receive 827,000 that year. Before landing the captain kindly coasted along the eastern shore of the o 26 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF island, and poi.nted out some of its prominent oLjects, among whicli was tlie great natural curiosity, called Arch Rock. Turning about ttg glided leisurely into the straits, "^here we landed on the spot famed in the history of our country for daring exploits, scenes of slaughter and blood. Michilimackinac signifies, according to some, "Big Turtle," owing to the peculiar shape of the island. Mr. Schoolcraft says, "that the present Indian signifi- cation of the name of this island is, 'place of the danc- ing spirits,' and that the popular etymology, which derives this word from ' Big Tui'tle,' dates still farther back, and is founded on the fact that the michi were turtle spirits." (Sheldon's Early Hist, of Mich., p. 41.) We dined at a tavern, and as we were to be de- tained for several days before we could go to the Saut, after some pains, we found quarters under the roof of a Mr. Balotes, a member of the Baptist Church. The place was so thronged with strangers that comfortable lodging, at a public house, was out of the question. We could not have desired kinder attention than we found with this pleasant family. The afternoon was spent in strolling among the Indian wigwams, and seeing them receive their pay and spend it among the traders, who thronged the place, and were ready to grab the Indian's money as soon as it came into his hands, by fair or foul means. It was a little surprising to us to find cher- ries and currants, in their prime, the last of August. Among our excursions brother B. and myself vis- MISSIONARY LIFE. 27 ited the mission establishment, once under the care of the Presbyterian Church, but now abandoned. It is a spacious building, and Tvas once thronged with native and half-breed children and youth, there edu- cated at vast expense. Little of the fruit of this self-sacrificing labor is thought now to be apparent. But it may be seen, in the revelations of eternity, that here vras a necessary and very important link in the chain of events, connected with the Christian- ization of benighted pagans. September 1. This morning I took a walk along the shore of the straits about a mile, where I saw scenes of woe and wretchedness. Some of the worse than heathen wJiites, FrencJi, and Judf-hreeds, had been furnishing the Indians with whisky, and cheating them out of their money. The direst effects of drunkenness vrere witnessed among them. Some were raving and fighting, some singing, some danc- ing, or running and whooping, while in some of the lodges were men, women, and children, rolling and tossing, and making hideous noises or doleful mean- ings. What a very pandemonium was here seen — all the work of whisky ! My soul sickened at this sight of woe. I was grieved to see such a mass, susceptible of high intelligence, debased below the level of the brute. Fearful, thought I, will be the final reckoning of the instigators of all this crime and misery, when the Judge of all the earth shall make inquisition for blood. The agent, Mr. Stuart of Detroit, took a noble stand in favor of temperance, and exerted a 28 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF great influence among the Indians. But Lis utmost vigilance was insufficient to prevent the ravages of this destroyer. Bad as was the case here described, I was told that there was then much less drunkenness than was common at such times. Here is revealed to us an almost omnipresent obstacle to missionary success. It is but justice to say, that among the traders were several honorable exceptions to such as have been just mentioned. The missionaries and their families, accompanied by brother Patterson and wife, from Detroit, took a ride on the straits, in a sail-boat. We sailed up and down the channel and into the verge of Lake Michi- gan. We had never before seen any thing to equal the transparency of those waters. The bottom, at a depth of twenty or thirty feet, was perfectly visible. The stones and pebbles are white lime, which makes them perceptible at greater depth than otherwise. We passed over to the opposite island, and then re- turned, singing as we crossed the channel, "From Greenland's icy mountains," etc. We felt our spirits refreshed and the missionary fire re- enkindled. Septemher 2. This morning brother Brown and myself visited a family of Christian Indians, from Said Ste. Marie, A fire was burning in the center of the lodo;e and somethino; cookins; in a kettle. The ground around was covered with green branches of white cedar. On these were spread some neat mats MISSIONAKY LIFE. 29 of their own make. Opposite tlie door were two painted wooden trunks, wliicli served as seats for visitors. Their blankets and bedding were carefully st-as not ashamed thus to labor. But there is another extreme into which some of our missionaries are driven, from necessity — too much and too severe manual labor. Ours was a remote station. Hired help was, at that time, scarcely to be obtained. And if it could, we were out of funds to pay workmen. There was much work to be done, and the missionary must do it mostly, or every thing must be at loose ends. The repairs about the mission have been men- tioned. An old hovel had ansvrered for barn and stable. This must be torn down and a better one built, which was not done without some labor. Our fire wood must be. chopped in the woods, then drawn MISSIONARY LIFE. 77 and prepared for the fire by the missionary — no small chore in that cold region. He must also aid in pro- curing wood for the school and the meetings. His hay was several miles distant, at a marsh, and must be drawn in on a single ox-train, over a narrow, crooked trail, through the woods. Considerable fenc- ing must be done in the coming spring, and it was necessary to go into the cedar swamp, cut and split the rails, and draw thein to their place. When summer came the potatoes must be planted, and the sowing done, and the growing crops cultivated, to aiford us supplies for the coming winter. From such numerous and pressing duties we were often in weari- ness and pain, and deprived of time needful for study and pastoral duties. Our white neighbors afforded us much relief in such emergencies; we changed work, and so assisted each other. As an illustration of the severe labor it was found necessary to perform, the following note, made December 7th, may serve : "Since we have been here I have been but illy pre- pared to preach. Have been under the necessity of laboring so hard in the week, as not only to interfere with time necessary for study, but so that, on the Sabbath, I have felt jaded down. Have not been able to set apart one whole day to study since we came. And nearly eveiy week-day have labored hard from morning till night with my hands." It is not here intimated that such continued to be the case all the time ; but it is a fair sample of what must often be done, for days and sometimes for 78 LIGHTS AXD SHADES OF weeks, in succession. In the earlj part of the fol- lowing summer, aided bj the Indians, who, in this instance, did themselves great credit, our school-house was renovated. It had been daubed inside and out- side with red clay. This had fallen out in places, and the house was dirty and uncomfortable. Besides, the roof leaked badly. We put on a new roof of cedar bark — took out the old mortar, and Avashed the logs clean inside — then pointed it with lime-mortar, and whitewashed it inside and outside. After the women had finished the scrubbing, we had a place of worship that we had no reason to be ashamed of. RELIGIOUS ASPECT. There had been a time of great religious promise at this station. This was soon after the foundation of the mission was laid, by the lamented John Clark. Then the Indians were collected about the station, several hundred in number. Instead of being for- tified by a strong force, it was subsequently, for .years, placed under the charge of single men, who often did their own cooking, and who, in that far-ofi" land, felt, at times, as if they were expatriated. Generally, they would return to visit their parents toward the close of the year — perhaps to remain. At such times the mission would be left, for two or three months, to take care of itself. Taking advantage of such cir- cumstances. Catholic emissaries, headed by the priest, brought about a division in the band, and induced a large portion to cross over to the Avcst side of the MISSIONARY LIFE. 79 bay, where a flourishing mission was established at an expense and sacrifice worthy of a better cause. The tide of prosperity had changed, and our little society was called to pass through sad reverses. The Indian membership we found generally at- tached to the institutions of the Church. They were remarkably punctual in attendance on the public worship of God — were attached to the class, and met in the prayer meeting. If they were disposed to neg- lect any means of grace it was the eucharist. In this solemn service there was something which inspired them with such feelings of awe, accompanied with such a sense of unworthiness, that, at times, they would look on with amazement, as if the very scenes of Calvary were enacted before them, not daring to approach. Exhortation and entreaty had often to be used to enforce the observance of this duty. The whole congregation kneeled in time of prayer, and stood up while vre sung. Storms seldom kept them from the house of worship, so that our congregations were not half as fluctuating as among our own people. During the early part of the winter no extraordi- nary religious interest was manifest. Preaching once, sometimes twice a day, on the Sabbath ; class meeting and prayei: meeting were our usual services among the Indians. Once in two weeks I preached to the whites, on Sabbath afternoon. About midwinter wo commenced prayer meeting at five o'clock Sunday mornings, and kept it up the remainder of the winter, and part of the summer. These meetings Avcre 80 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP mostly confined to the whites, including brother and sister Marksman, and were often seasons of great spiritual profit to us. New- Year's eve we held a watch meeting, which was attended with the Divine presence and blessing. The services commenced at nine o'clock, and continued till the close of the year. The new year was ushered in with the voice of prayer. The little society covenanted together to live nearer to God; and several expressed, by rising to their feet, that they desired to be Christians. During the month of January we had frequent evening meetings, sometimes occupying nearly every evening in the week. The Church was greatly quick- ened, but we were favored with no general revival. As usual, about the first of March the Indians left for the sugar bush, and our meetings, till they returned, were thinly attended. We visited them sev- eral times in their encampment, and broke to them the bread of life. In the early part of May our little society was favored with a refreshing shower of grace. The fol- lowing facts were recorded the 5th : '' The Lord appears to be favoring us with an outpouring of his Spirit upon the Church here. This commenced with brother J., who stated, in meeting yesterday, that, for some time past, he had lived much in unbelief, and at a great distance from God. Last Wednesday he was peculiarly drawn out in prayer to God, and while in an agony, these words came into his mind, < Only believe,' and he exclaimed, ' Lord, I will MISSIONARY LIFE. 81 believe,' and instantly his -burden was removed, and ever since he had been so blessed that he felt like shouting and praising God aloud, wherever he went. He immediately told his wife what the Lord had done for him, and exhorted her to look for the same bless- ing. From her acknowledgment, she also had been in a backslidden state. She stated that instead of feeling happy at what her husband had related, it appeared to make her angry at the Lord, saying that she had done all she could. Her husband still pressed the case — she yielded — gave herself anew to Christ, and has since rejoiced in the liberty of the Gospel. Brother J. was the carpenter. " Some others of our white brethren and sisters have been greatly blessed since. My own soul has shared in the general blessing. To-day Peter 3IarJcsman was brought into the liberty of the Gospel, from which he fell last year, and which he has again been seeking for some months past. I trust this flame will spread not only among the whites but among the Indians. They are still, most of them, absent in the sugar-camps. This evening was our monthly mission- ary prayer meeting, and it proved a truly -refreshing season. 3Iay 25. Things appear more promising in re- gard to the spiritual interests of the mission. For some two months and a half the Lidians have been scattered; they are now together again. Our day school commenced last week. This morning pur Sab- bath school opened with some promise. We had five 82 L I G II T S A N D S 11 A D E S F o'clock meeting tins morning, both among the ^vhite people and the Indians. At lOJ o'clock, A. M., I preached from Isaiah lii, 1. Had the largest con- gregation we had seen for some time. Was blessed with great enlargement in preaching. Had not ex- perienced such an overwhelming sense of the Divine presence before since our arrival. My faith in the power of God to accompany the preaching of the Gospel, by however weak instrumentality, was in- creased, and my soul went out in longing desire for the Indians. God was present to bless his people." In the afternoon, in the midst of our meeting, the alarm of fire was given. It had been raging fearfully in the woods, and found its way into an old slashing close to the mission, and the rest of the afternoon and evening we were forced to fight the fire desperately to preserve our fences and buildings. Many of our meetings during the summer season possessed much interest, but, in the midst of many pressing duties, no accurate memoranda were kept. As our work was here mostly confined to one spot, there was, necessarily, much monotony in the routine of our duty. Brother Carrier, the farmer, and his excellent wife, exerted a most wholesome influence among the In- dians. They were Congregationalists, educated at the Oberlin School, Ohio. They felt that their mission was not simply to teach the Indians how to plow and plant. Sister C, who possessed a more than common degree of intelligence, studied the Indian language, MISSIONARY LIFE. 83 and, taking sister Marksman for interpreter, she used to visit the Indians in their houses, read God's word to them, pray with them, and instruct them how to live as Christians, and as white people. A female prayer meeting was established, and a moral reform society organized for the benefit of the Indians. If the Government should send such families among the Indians, instead of supplying those posts with men, a? is often done, who have no higher claim than that their political creed accords with the party in power, they would shed light and happiness on the pathway of the Indian. If any Government ofiicers should be persons of sterling moral character, they are those sent among the natives. SEVERITY or THE WINTER. The ground was covered with snow about the mid- dle of October. This left us, and we had several days of very fine weather. The 14th of ISTovember several inches' of snow fell, and winter was soon upon us in f^ood earnest. The coldest weather commenced about the last of January. We had no thermometer to show the exact state of the weather. January 31st, the bay was frozen over, and as it had been calm it was perfectly smooth for miles. This was a source of joy to the Indians. They had caught but few fish for a month or two before — now the prospect was that they could set their nets to advantage. Most of the settlement were out. on the ice skating and fishing. But in less than a week a terrible gale ^ 84 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF from the north-east broke the ice all to pieces, and drove it together edgeways, and in all forms, six or eight feet deep, destroying a number of nets, and rendering it impossible for the Indians to set others. In a time of such scarcity as then existed in the provision line, every thing looked gloomy. From that on till the last of March, very few fish were caught. The potatoes had been mostly consumed, and the game taken from the woods was inadequate. There was, necessarily, a considerable amount of suffering before the winter closed. During sugar- making some lived almost entirely on sugar. But God mercifully preserved both whites and Indians till the opening spring afforded us plenty of the most delicious fish, and the whitened sail was seen in the distance, which brought us a new recruit from below. In this time of want and hunger we set apart a day of fasting and prayer among the whites, and met during the day for public worship. PEOVIDEXTIAL DELIVERANCE. Toward the latter part of March, in company with some other men, I was helping to remove some hay from a marsh to the shore, near the head of the bay. The marsh was about a mile back through the woods. Just at the bay our trail crossed a very deep creek. We had drawn most of the stack. I had just passed over the creek with an ox and train, threvv' off the hay, and was returning for my last load. The ice gave way and the ox fell through. Fortu- MISSIONARY LIFE. 85 nately the bow-pin came out, and tlie ox was iisen- tangled from tlie yoke and train. I cauglit a rope wliich wo had for binding the hay, and, in an instant, made fast to the horns of the ox,' which must soon have gone under. By this means I kept his head out of the water. I next called aloud to the men at the marsh, who heard me, and came speedily to my assistance. We released the ox without loss or damage to any thing ; but it was not till after all was done that I realized my own imminent danger. Some y regard this as a mere instance of good luck ; I ma rejoice to trace in such events the hand of a kind Providence, and to ascribe to his name the glory. STUDIES. Our opportunity for study was, at best, but limited. yij library had been left at the Saut during the winter. In this interval we had received but one mail, and that we had hired an Indian to bring on his back from Saut Ste. 3Iarie. The Bible and Greek Testament were constant companions. In the spring I added a copy of the Septuagint to my course. When our books arrived we endeavored, as fiir as practicable, to obey the apostle's injunction, ^' Give attendance to reading," and strove, meanwhile, at least, not to forget the use of the pen. Would that our profiting had been more apparent ! • S6 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP CHAPTER y. TRIP TO LA POINTE TO ATTEND THE INDIAN PAYMENT. Our Indians were to receive tlieir annuities at La Pointe. It was agreed that a few should go and receive the pay, and the rest remain at the mission. I had arranged to accompany them. Tuesday, August 12. ^Ye left in a large bark canoe which the chief, David King, had made for the purpose. There were four stout Indians, besides David, who himself possesses a herculean frame. We crossed over to the Entry, into Portage river, and camped at night on the shore of Portage Lake. We had fallen in company with several canoes from the Catholic mission. The next morning we were up by three o'clock, and left our camp a little after four. Went eight miles and breakfasted. David and G. were quite unwell, and took an emetic of alder bark, drinking a iarge quantity of warm water. It did the work effectually; for in a few minutes they were ready to take down as much bread, pork, potatoes, fish, and coffee as any body. We soon reached what is called the Portage — a mile and a half of land car- riajre, where the canoe and all our effects must be carried over. One-third of the way we had to wade MISSIONARY LIFE. .87 m water and mud. To me this was quite new busi- ness. But we were all over before noon to tbe shore of Lake Superior. Here we were wind-bound the remainder of the afternoon. A little after midnight we were off again — the day was fine, but the sun scorchino; hot at noon, and the Lake calm. "We coasted about seventy miles and camped. Friday morning we were on our way again by half-past four o'clock; but we were baffled most of the day by contrary winds. About five o'clock, P. M., we ran into Carp river, where we found safe harbor. Shortly after James Schoolcraft, sutler from Fort Brady, came up with a large canoe and camped. I felt concerned lest we should be caught out over the Sabbath, and determined to urge our men off as soon as the Lake was sufficiently calm. Instead of camping on shore with them, I took a blanket and laid down in the canoe, which was made fast in the river. At eleven o'clock I aroused the men, and. urged them to start. The chief said, '•^Ka-gali Ne-sliko-de-ze;'" that is, "I am almost mad. You know but little about the Lake." To this I readily assented, but was well assured that we could go, and told him we could try. I succeeded in getting them off about midnight. When we first started heavy dead swells were rolling, but the Lake soon became quite calm, and we had coasted about twenty miles by the time it was fairly light, and stopped for breakfast at the mouth of Black river. Here we found a tent and three copper hunt- ers. Breakfast over, we put out again to sea, rowed $ 88 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF . about four miles from shore, and a most favorable breeze sprung up from the north-east. Now we had up main, fore, and top-sail, but the wind increasing, all were taken down but the fore-sail, and that closely reefed. Here was a traverse of about forty miles, directly to La Pointe. The heavy seas, which soon set into the bay, made it dangerous to effect a landing any where short of this. So, heading directly for La Pointe, we sailed at a rapid rate. The sea became very rough when w^e were in the midst of this great traverse. Now the high land to the left of us was in full view, and the Montreal river, dashing and foam- ing over falls of about eighty feet in hight ; then all was hid in that direction but the blue sky. How frail w^as our craft, and what atoms we ourselves, compared with the billows around us ! But God was with us, and held us in the hollow of his hand. Here we felt how good it was to trust in the Lord. By about noon on Saturday we landed in safety on Madeline Island, at La Pointe. I was very kindly received by the missionaries of the American Board, composed of Rev. S. Hall and family, Rev. Mr. Wheeler and Mr. Sproats and their families. Met here, also, Mr. Ely, a missionary from Pokegama, brother P. 0. Johnson, from Leach Lake, several Lidian preachers, and Rev. Mr. Rosseal, from the state of New York. Here were, also, traders and visitors from the Saut, Detroit, and other parts, and the place swarmed with Lidians who had come hundreds of miles, out of the dense wilderness, to receive their annuity. We were do- # I MISSION.\RY LIFE. 91 tained here thirteen days before Tve could leave, during which our time Avas spent very agreeably and profitably with the resident and visiting mis- sionaries. It was to us a kind pf missionary con- ference, and made up for many of our past priva- tions. "With those devoted missionary brethren we lived much in a few days. RELIGIOUS EXERCISES. Each Sabbath we had four services, two in English and two in Ojibwa, in which the resident and visit- ing brethren participated. "We had also a morning prayer meeting each day in the week. Among our most hallowed seasons were those spent under the J, mission-roof at family worship. Two of the mission •' famiHcs, with their visitors and boarders, met around one altar. Amono; them were several charminn- sinf'- ers. All present took part in reading the holy Scrip- tures. The persons who led the devotions made brief remarks on the lesson. This was followed by a devotional hymn, in which the difi'erent parts were carried. Then followed the prayer. The Spirit's divine influence seemed to fill the room. "\Ye felt as Peter, on the Mount of Vision, that it was good to be there. These delightful exercises were conducted with the spirit and with the understanding also. Such a bright spot was like an oasis in the desert. AYe hope never to forget those sacred hours. Our seasons of public worship were attended with the divine blessin-x. ^ 8 I 92 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF THE MISSIOT\. Kev. S. Hall, the superintendent, had resided here about thirteen years, with an interesting family of children growing up around him, who were about as familiar with the Indian as with their native tongue. Mr. Hall has been, in every sense, a laborious mis- sionary, working hard with his hands, preaching, translating, etc. With the aid of native interpreters, he had translated the New Testament into the Ojibwa, a work which is invaluable to the missions all through that region. Rev. Mr. Wheeler, of whom we could say many good things, spent considerable time at Bad river, where he has since succeeded in establishing a flourishing mission. Two schools were under the di- rection of the mission at La Pointe — one taught by Mr. Sproats and the other by Miss Spooner, a well- qualified Christian lady, who, like the others, had, for Christ's sake, volunteered to leave friends and home in the east, to be a missionary. The schools were reported as in a flourishing condition. Most of our missionaries, about Lake Superior, have occasionally found shelter under the roof of that mission, and there is but one voice from the whole, in regard to the unafi*ected hospitality and dignified Christian bear- ingr of those missionaries and their families. In com- paring the mission here, with our Methodist missions among the Indians, I gained the impression that these missionaries excelled us in their schools, and en- deavored to train the Indians intellectually ; but that MISSIONARY LIFE. 93 we were far in advance, so far as making converts from paganism is concerned, and in promoting their civilization generally. Each, however, has marked out its appropriate sphere of influence, and is accom- plishing the one great work.'-^ INDIANS FROM THE WOODS. Their condition appeared deplorable enough. Many of them were disgustingly filthy — they looked as if they never pret-ended to wash either their persons or their clothes. Some of them had scarcely a tatter of even a filthy garment about them, and were almost destitute of provisions. They were painted and dis- figured, and decorated in the most grotesque and ludicrous manner. Their outward appearance was only the counterpart of their minds — ignorant, mor- ally polluted, and debased to the level of the brute. Their insolent pride gave the finishing stroke to their morally depraved condition. They were much ad- dicted to gambling — some of them would part with all they had, in their strife to win the game. All that was wanting to complete their wretchedness was, to let them have whisky, which, fortunately, at this pay- ment, by untiring vigilance, was kept from them. In looking at our Christian Indians, by the side of those, * It is duo to us to observe, that a large proportion of those in attend- ance upon those schools were of a mixed population— few full-blooded Indians. They -were consequently more settled— less dependent on the chase, and better prepared to excel in their studies. Under the direction of such teachers they cuuld not but succeed. f)4 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF I wanted no furtlicr proof of the power of tlie Gospel to elevate the red man. WAE-DANCE AND HEATHEN BUniAL. On the evening of the 19th the Indians had a war- dance. Tliey made dull music on two drums of their own construction. This was accompanied by singing and an occasional whoop. They commenced in a large lodge and marched out, when they were joined by others, till tliey formed quite a procession. Two of them had flags of divers colors. They marched in a kind of dance. In those dances some one usually makes a speech in which some great exploits are recounted. On the evening of the 29th we observed a funeral. An aged Indian, after he had received his pay, was returning to his lodge, and dropped down dead in the road. This was about noon. Just before dusk he was buried, according to heathen custom. A kettle of provision was put in the grave by the head of the departed, on which it was supposed his spirit would feed. After the grave was closed, the relatives feasted on a kettle of boiled pork and *' dough-hoys^'^ that is, pieces of dough boiled with the pork — a rare treat among the wild Indians. They were thus, as they supposed, feasting with their departed brother. They often place tobacco at the head of their graves, to serve for the departed. How gloomy such a burial ! Is it wonderful that heathen Indians blacken their fiiccs for the dead, and often spend hours of incon- MISSIONARY LIFE. 95 solable grief over the graves of their deceased friends ! Their grief is that of frenzy and despair. iV^o Christ, no liope in death ! \ RETURN. After much dehay the payment was made, and wo took our departure August 29th. It was not con- venient to return in the canoe with our Indians, on account of the goods, provisions, etc., they had to carry. Brother Marksman and his wife, who had preceded us to La Pointe, and myself, took passage on the Algonquin, which was to take us directly to Copper Harbor, where a trader was to wait for us with his canoe, and take us to L'Anse. Contrary to agreement, and to the great disappointment of several traders aboard, the captain steered directly for Isle Royal, to pick up some miners, who wished a passage down. We were becalmed, and did not reach the island till Monday morning, when we ran into the delightful harbor, called Rock Harbor. Drop- ping down about three miles to an old fishing post, we were disappointed again to find, by a card left, that the miners were on the opposite side. A gun was fired, which they heard, and they reached us just before dark. We had the day to hunt agates, and stroll among the wild scenery. Here we were forced to lay -all night, and till one o'clock the next day, before we cleared the Harbor. We were then favored with a good wind, which brought us into Copper Harbor Tuesday, about midnight. 98 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Landing in the morning, "vv'e learned that the trader, who was to take us home, became tired waiting, and left us. "We were now in a fix, mostly among entire strangers, our money nearly spent, and, to human appearance, no way to reach home, seventy-five miles distant. After taking breakfast at a boarding house, and before taking any step, I retired to the woods and spread out our case before the Lord, and returned fully assured that some relief would be afforded us in our trying situation. We looked about and found a small canoe, for which the owner asked us twelve dollars. It was too much, but we did not know any better course to pursue, and bought it. Having learned something about our disappointment, he came afterward and refunded two dollars. A Mr. Hopkins, who was, probably, at the head of this movement, gave us two dollars. Mr. M. gave us one dollar, and some pork for our journey ; and two merchants, Messrs. Barbeau and Chapman, gave us a bag of hard bread, worth about three dollars. We fell in with the lamented Dr. Houghton, who kindly furnished us with a tent. Thus were all our w^ants met by a merciful Providence. Copper Harbor was, at that time, the central point of attraction for all concerned in the mines, which had just begun to excite attention. The shore, all about the Harbor, was lined with tents, and every thing was on the move as if the people were driving on to a speedy fortune. We were detained here, in our camp, till Thurs- MISSIONARY LIFE 99 day afternoon. The wind blew a gale most of tlio time, and the Lake was all agitation. We left the Harbor in our frail bark attached by a rope to the laro-e boat of Dr. Hou<]i;hton. The breakers were rolling in, angrily, when we left, and it was not with- out risk of running under that we had to resort to this expedient. The Doctor would have given us a place in his boat, but his own lading was sufficiently heavy. After passing fairly out of the Harbor we were in little danger, and, with a fine breeze, soon reached the end of Point Kewenaw. Rounding the Point we came into smooth water, and dropped loose from the Doctor's boat. He stopped with his men, and we kept on till some time after dark, when we reached the opposite shore of Bate clu Gris, com- monly called Bay Degree. Here we camped in com- pany with some Indians, who had left Copper Harbor before us. The tent we had left with the Doctor. Here we ate our homely meal, and, as was our uniform custom, sung and prayed, and laid us down, under the open canopy of heaven, and slept sweetly till the dawn of day. The morning light was saluted also with the voice of prayer and praise. We craved the watchful care of God over us, exposed, as we were, to the perils of the deep. And the day had not passed before we saw our need of this. Early in the day we met a canoe from home, which had been dispatched to look after us. Finding that we were all "right side up with care," Mr. B. went on to Cop- per Harbor on his own business. When the wind 100 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF would allow we carried a small sail, such as our craft could bear, and sailing some, and using tlie paddles briskly, ^'e proceeded very well till toward night, when a fine breeze sprung up, which was bearing us along nicely. But gradually it gathered strength, and now the w^hite caps began to appear, and wave succeeded wave, till the scene about us looked fright- ful. A short distance before us was a point, and on from that, for a distance of about eight miles, was a hicrh wall of rocks, where we could not have landed. As night was approaching it added to the risk of any attempt to pass them. About a mile to our right was a beautiful sand-beach, but a terrible sea was rolling in to the shore. A moment was spent in deciding what to do. AYe agreed that our only hope was to try to land. Marskman had the stern of the canoe, and I managed the bow. We wheeled for the shore, meanwhile throwing off our coats, shoes, and stock- ings, to be ready to spring into the water before the canoe should strike. The steersman was to give the word of command. As we approached the shore we paddled with all our might to ridQ in upon one of the huge waves. Just now said Marksman, "make ready." No sooner said than I found myself on my feet, firmly grasping the bow of the canoe. In an instant he was out at the stern, and taking advantage of the wave, we ran her as high as possible on the beach. Now a large swell broke over the stern, but doing us little damage. With the utmost dispatch we had every thing safely landed. Our feelings of MISSIOXxVRY LIFE. 101 thankfulness may be more easily imagined than ex- pressed. We kindled a fire, and, as it had com- menced to rain, constructed a tent out of our sail and a coverlet. Then singing a hymn of praise, we im- plored God's blessing upon us, and 'were drawn out especially in behalf of the Indians we had camped with the night before. Having a larger craft they put out further to sea, and the storm was now ahead for them. The night was dark and rainy, and much doubt hung over their prospect; so we worked about half of the night, to keep up a bright fire to serve as a beacon. It is enough to say that they found a shelter from the storm, and reached home in safety. We rested but little that night — the howling of the wind — the roaring of the lake — the chilliness of the atmosphere — the thought of home — the uneasiness of my dear wife and daughter, all conduced more to reflection and prayer than to sleep. Saturday the wind was in the east, and a heavy sea continued to set in to the bay. The following was penned on the spot : "Unless the tempest should soon subside we shall not reach home this week. Blessed be God, I trust that this journey, which has been adverse at almost every turn since I left La Pointe, has taught me many important lessons. I have seen the hand of God strikingly exhibited in several instances. My soul is fixed trusting in the Lord. I will not fear though the sea roar, and the mountains shake, with the swelling thereof.'' 102 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF After noon the lake measurably calmed down, and we might have gone on, but for the heavy breakers which still rolled up against the shore. We made an ineffectual attempt to get off. Pushing the canoe to the water's edge, we put in our things, shoving it out gradually as far as we dared. We stood in water about half an hour watching a favorable swell. At length we shoved off, but wxre met about as soon with a huge wave, which broke over the canoe, filling the bow half full, submerging a box of Indian Testa- ments and badly wetting our things. We were now in danger of losing the canoe, as from its weight it was unmanageable. But making fast to a tree by means of a rope, we got out our effects and secured the canoe. Making ourselves as comfortable as we could, we were compelled to wait more favorable auspices. We arose early the next morning to hail the light of a lovely Sabbath. What should w^e do? Our bread had become damp and musty. Our other provisions were nearly exhausted. Our situati(5n was very un- comfortable. With our small canoe we could not go when it was rough, and should we neglect the present opportunity, we might have to stay for days on that dreary shore, when a few hours would take us home. We thought of the anxious suspense of our friends, to know what had become of us. These and other similar reasons led us to think that it was our duty to go, especially in the light of Christ's declaration respecting the observance of the Sabbath: ''I will MISSIONARY LIFE. 108 have mercy and not sacrifice." We therefore coasted leisurely along on the placid lake, till Tve came -within about six miles of home, Tvhen Tve caught a favorable breeze, ^hich soon bore us across to the mission, Tvhere we landed a little afternoon — finding all well and rejoicing in God at our deliverance from the perils of the deep. 10-1 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF CHAPTER YI. SECOXD YEAR AT THE KEWAWEXOX MISSION The conference, wliicli had recently been in ses- sion, saAv fit to continue us at tliis station. "We sliall aim to group together what is worthy of notice during this year, in as brief a manner as possible. Our work was mostly at home, and therefore was more monot- onous than s©me other periods of our connection with the missions. The summer before we had succeeded in raising a good crop of vegetables. Several days were spent in digging and taking care of our potato crop. "We had not only enough for our own use but a surplus. Those I took in a large batteau to the Eagle River mine, where I was paid for them, in gold, about forty- five dollars. This was the first surplus the mission had produced. The avails greatly aided us in our work. The batteau had been sold by a Mr. B. to the Mining Company, and was to be left at Eagle river. We took a small bark canoe in tow, to return home with. The tour was the shortest and most successful coasting-trip I ever made. W^e reached Eagle river, via Kewenaw Point, in a little more than two days and a half» The same afternoon we disposed of our vegetables, unloaded the batteau, gummed our canoe, MISSIONARY LIFE. 10;) and by dark were ready to start for home. I was dubbed captain, for tlie first time, by the receiver of our cargo. I had an interview here with the hite himented Dr. Houghton, and passed that night — Fnelay — in our frail bark over the spot where he was drowned, in a terrible gale, the Monday night fol- lowing. The Lake was calm, and we reached the Portage, twenty-five miles, by midnight. The next night, by ten o'clock, we reached the mission in safety. The whole journey, a distance of one hun- dred and seventy-five miles, was performed within four days. We were embarrassed, during the fall and winter, by the serious illness of brother Marksman, by which he was laid aside from the work.^^ This threw the school on my hands, in addition to the onerous duties which already claimed my attention. And till the middle of December we had no regular interpreter. In this interim we had to depend mostly on two females, who spoke both languages well, and rendered us good service. G. Bedell arrived from a more dis- tant station the 13th of December, and was hired to interpret the rest of the winter. With our limited help we endeavored to have all the interests of the mission cared for to the best of our ability. The day school and Sunday school were kept up, except * Toward spring sister llarksman was brought to the confines of the grave by a most painful affliction. It was a time of fiery trial to brother JI. and liis family. But they found their help in God. 306 L I G II T S A N D S U A D E S F in absence of the scliolars for sugar-making. Eut, as there was little change in the inhabitants, our schools were made up of nearly the same scholars as the year before, and the description before given may suffice. Our religious meetings were attended with many discouragements, as well as our educational interests — perhaps not proportionately more than among our own people. Our native population at the mission was less than one hundred and fifty souls, including children. Most of the adult population had, at some time, professed religion. Backsliding is a sin among Indians as well as among white people. Take a community of the same size and character, relig- iously, among white people, and then ask, would it be reasonable to expect sweeping revivals of religion from year to year, in which scores would crowd the altar as penitents, and go on their way rejoicing as new converts? It is no uncommon thing in a community of hundreds of white people for the Church to have only an occasional revival. Spiritual declension is by no means a rare thing. I speak of this not to justify want of revival in either case; but, simply, as an existing fact in both cases, and no less notorious among whites than Indians. It is a false view of this very thing which operates to the prejudice of our Indian missions. Many are wont to expect re- sults, which will tally with successful efforts in a dense population, where no hinderance is placed in the way by a strange language. The question, whether MISSIONARY LIFE. 107 we ought to abandon such posts because of the pau- city of numbers, is another thing, which I shall not stop here to answer. All we ask is, that, as long as the Church, in her wisdom, shall think best to cultivate such ground, our people should not look despairingly at the results so long as they equal those among the same number of white people. But we were not left without witness that God was with us. The Church was often quickened, backsliders were occasionally reclaimed, and, in some instances, we were enabled to rejoice in the conversion of sinners. The following was noted December 8th : " After mentioning some of our discouragements, on account of brother Marksman's illness, etc., I was led to say, Olan's extremity is often God's opportunity.' In the midst of all these discouragements he has been pleased to visit and bless us. Our meetings among the Indians have never been so interesting since I came here, as for some time past. A week ago last Sabbath was our communion season, and a more melt- ing time I have never witnessed any where. ^ly own soul was so peculiarly drawn out in behalf of the Indians, as seemed to dissolve me in tears. jNIy interpretress became so deeply affected that she had to make occasional pauses to give vent to tears. A divine influence seemed to pervade the house, so that nearly the whole congregation were melted into ten- derness. So far as I was concerned it was not merely the effect of the nfoment, but, for some time before, 1 had communed intimately with God in secret." 108 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF At night of the same day a backslider was rech\imed and united asrain on trial. Confession was also made o by others who had been in a backslidden state, whu expressed a determination to lead a new life. The next Sabbath I took for my text, '^ Therefore ivill the Lord loait that he may he gracious." Our meeting was very similar to those of the preceding Sabbath. The Church was evidently rising to new- ness of spiritual life. Christmas eve was, with us, a season owned of God. AYe had our house neatly trimmed with evergreens furnished to hand in such abundance, and well lighted. The meeting was attended by our own and some of the Catholic Indians. We met again the next day and had public worship, and baptized two children. December 27. After laboring hard all day with my hands, I visited, at night, eight families. I found, in conversation with them, that, for a time, most of them had been in a low state of religion, but that, in most cases, of late, they had been making renewed eiforts to love and serve God. Two or three spoke of having the load of sorrow removed from their hearts, which were now filled with peace and joy. Some who were not yet brought into this liberty expressed a determination to continue seeking. I was rejoiced to find, in the midst of much back- sliding, a hungering and thirsting after righteousness. We held a watch meeting New-Year's eve as usual, which was well attended and blessed to those present. Two backsliders expressed a determination to return I MISSIONARY LIFE. 109 again to their Father's house, and most of the pro- fessors renewed their covenant with God. After the meeting was dismissed a young man desired to speak with me. He was so deeply affected that he could scarcely speak for sobs and tears. He stated that he had been reminded of his unfaithfulness the past year. He was troubled on that account. But the uord had been near him during the watch meeting, and he was resolved to serve God better for the future. Just as we were about leaving the house a person came to tell me that my daughter was quite ill. On returning to the house I found her severely attacked with croup. Losing the best means at command we were thankful to see her soon convalescent. In one of our meetings about this time, the chief, David King, arose, so deeply affected that he could say but few words at a time. Among other things he said, that '' while he was talking with his family in the morning, and telling them how they should live, he thought of his brethren, some of whom were cold in their hearts. This overpowered him. He sung and prayed, and now exhorted his brethren to be more faithful." While he spoke I saw some others we^cping freely. The Indians are taught to believe that it is the greatest weakness for a man to weep. Nothing but the love of Jesus can open the fountain of tears. In their heathen state they can look on, apparently with stoical indifference, when their dear- est friends, are torn from them by death. They often have deep feelings bordering on despair, but it would 110 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF be unmanly to betray them. To -R-eep would be to act like women. But the strong man armed is brought to bow, and the adamantine heart to melt, under the power of the cross. As we were about leaving the house of prayer we witnessed a scene in striking contrast with the one just mentioned. Several white men in a boat came to the shore, singing the song called "The Flowing Bowl," anil hallooing at the top of their voice, evi- dently influenced by liquor. They appeared perfectly reckless of all order and decency. They went from house to house with their jug, but found no one to drink with them. Even our Indians despised them, and they soon left for the settlement across the Bay. The 4th of January was our communion day. It was an occasion of much interest. Christ was pres- ent to bless in our love-feast. Thirteen, princi- pally youth from ten to sixteen years of age, united with the Church on trial, most of them as seekers. The scene was delightful and truly afi'ecting, to see those childi-en give their hand to the Church while tears trickled down their cheeks. Among the parents and older membera of the Church, some were over- come with joyful emotions, and others were agonizing for a blessing. Two of those who joined us had been members of the Roman Catholic Church, one a mem- ber that they prized highly. In the afternoon 1 baptized a young man, who had also been a Papist; he united with our Church on trial. At night we had a manifest display of the power and mercy of MISSIOJ^ARY LIFE. Hi God. At an invitation for persons cold in religion and seekers to come for^vard, two benches were soon filled. As they earner to the seats prepared, they fell upon their knees, and eUch seemed deeply en- ffao;ed for himself. There was some noise, but no extravagance. The agonizing sigh and groan were heard to escape the burdened heart; the prayer of the believer mingled with that of the penitent seeker ; an occasional burst of praise was heard, and at times the hearty amen^ which seemed to speak from the heart, ^' Lord, even so let it he''\ One, at least, of the seekers obtained pardon, and we had reason to believe that several cold professors were reclaimed from their backslidings. FIERY TRIALS. Not long after those precious showers of grace our spiritual horizon was overcast with dark and threatening clouds. Almost every thing had changed as it respected the little company of white members who had enjoyed such refreshings from the presence of God the previous year. One of those brethren Iiad removed to Pittsburg. The farmer and his wife, who had been such a help to us, had left. His suc- cessor made no pretensions to religion. A most un- happy difficulty arose among several of the white residents, involving two members of the Church, and resulted in the expulsion of one and the withdrawal of the other from the Church. The dispute was so connected with the affairs of the Indians as to involve 312 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF them also. For a time it reallj seemed as if the powers of darkness would prevail. These were to us hours of sadness. Our faith in God was put to the severest test. But the cloud at length passed over, and the bright Sun of righteousness again shone upon us. In the earlj part of the summer the society was arranged in three classes — one a juvenile class, con- sisting of those who had recently united with the Church. I took charge of this class as leader. The following facts were noted as occurring on Friday, July 10th. It was observed as a day of fasting and prayer, preparatory to our communion. We met at five o'clock, A. M., for prayer meeting. Had a general attendance and 'a good meeting. In the evening I met the juvenile class, most of whose members joined the Church last winter. There were ten present, and I was glad to find them all enter- taining a hope of heaven and a determination to live a Christian life. I have been thus particular to show that, with all the difficulties and discouragements we had to meet, we were still enabled to say, "The best of all is, God is with us." TRAVELS. Though my work was mostly confined to Kewa- wenon, I traveled some during the 3^ear. Some ac- count of a trip made on snow-shoes must suffice. It was in some respects one of the most laborious MISSIONARY LIFE. 113 and painful journeys of my life. On the Gtli of January I left the mission, accompanied by two able- bodied Indians, to visit a band of Indians at Grand Island, a distance of a hundred and twenty miles. The chief Moiiomonee and his family had embraced religion and united with our Church under the labors of Rev. George W. Brown. They belonged properly to the mission at Saut Ste. Marie, but were farther from that station than from us, and were thus mostly deprived of the labors of a Christian pastor. The Catholic priest told some of our Indians that he had received an invitation from Monomonee to come and Christianize those Indians. I doubted the correct- ness of the report; but, as I was informed that the priest was intending to go immediately to Grand Island to accomplish this end, and was prepared to make the Indians liberal offers, if they would consent to settle near his mission and become Catholics, I felt it my duty to go before him, and, with the help of God, defeat his proselyting attempts. The desired end was accomplished. The priest followed me, and made but a brief stay with the Indians. Years after this I was permitted to see the chief and his family settled with our Indians at Naomikong, firmly at- tached to Protestant Christianity, and constant wor- shipers with us. OUTFIT. Our outfit for this journey consisted of snow- shoes, two small axes, a gun, a cedar snow-shovel to 114 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF clear away snow for our encampment, a small sail to stretch over our camp for covering, blankets, about sixty pounds of provisions — mostly pork and flour, tea, coffee, sugar, etc. — a camp -kettle, frying-pan, tin-cups, etc. This load was all carried by my guides except my two blankets, Bible, hymn-book, etc., which made up my pack. We had no dog-train — an article seldom used in that region. Our journey led mostly through a dense forest, with not even a trail, and little to guide us, except some indistinct marks recognized only by Indians. Sometimes we crossed a chain of little lakes, and occasionally we clambered along the rocky shore of Lake Superior, and then made the deiour of deep bays, over a sandy and less rugged shore. We forced our way through several cedar swamps, where we had often either to climb over or creep under fallen brush and timber. We usually traveled from twenty to thirty-five miles a day; once about forty miles. At noon we stopped just long enough to take a cold lunch, near some place where we could obtain water, and then we continued our march till after sundown. The last day on our way down we traveled till mid- night by the light of the moon. Our labor was by no means ended when we stopped for the night. The snow, two to three feet deep, must be shoveled away to make a place for our camp; boughs must be cut and spread down to serve the double purpose of floor and bed; wood must be chopped to keep a good fire all night— and, if very cold, we usually burnt a huge MISSIONARY LIFE. 115 pile. Next our supper must be prepared. It was generally nine or ten o'clock before Ave -were ready to wrap up in our blankets and give our eyes to sleep. The next morning we must be up at four or five o'clock, cook our breakfast, and perform the same arduous toil. On the evening of the fourth day we reached Carp river, near tUp now flourishing town of Mar- quette. Here was then one solitary wigwam, occu- pied by an Indian family. I had worn my mocca- sins through; my feet were both badly blistered, and my limbs so wearied that I could scarcely di-ag my snow-shoes along. The sight of a human hab- itation, though but an Indian lodge, gave me such joy that I was involuntarily moved to tears. Here we were warmly received. One of the men had just taken a deer. Blah-je-ge-zhik'' s wife made us a warm cake, cooked venison and some potatoes, and made us a dish of tea — all neatly and well served, and which had a relish not common at sumptuous feasts. Our hostess then dried and mended my moccasins, and seemed to take pleasure in doing all she could to minister to our wants. The next day was Sat- urday. AYe reached the Island, by traveling forty miles, about midnight. This hard day's work was too much for me, and I was quite unwell during the Sabbath.* I remained at the Island till Tuesday * Sunday afternoon w^ crossed over the Bay, and staid for tbo night with Mr. William?, of whom wo purchased provisions tho next morning for our return voyage. 116 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF noon, held several meetings -with the Indians, and found them in a low state of religion; but they made new vows to lead a more devoted Christian life. We were kindly received, and they professed unwavering attachment to our Church. I gave them a copy of St. John's Gospel and a hymn-book — both in the Ojibwa language — exhorted them to faithfulness, and set out for Kewawenon. By the severe exercise on the way down I had lamed my ankle. It was what the Indians call snow- shoe-lameness, arising from overstraining of the ten- dons. It is very painful when the limb must be exercised, and permanent relief can hardly be obtained only by rest from the labor that causes it. We had traveled only a few miles when I had not strength in my ankle to carry the snow-shoe, and yet could not walk without. In this emergency I tied a string to the fore-end of the snow-shoe, which at every step I raised with the left hand. A hard way to walk, but it must be that or nothing. The next morning, after going about five miles, I was compelled to stop. We had scarcely made our camp before the priest passed us on his way down. I had a short interview with him, and told him that the Indians had not sent for him. He was resolved to go on and see them, which was his privilege. Here I went through a course of Indian treatment. My ankle was lacerated with a sharp flint, and rubbed with liniment. I was some- what relieved the next morning, and we were off by five o'clock. We followed the priest's track, by MISSIONARY LIFE. 117 moonlight, till the day dawned. After the first two or three hours of each day I could walk only by aid of the string as before. Thursday we made about twenty-five miles ; Friday about thirty ; my lameness abating but little. Saturday morning we were oiF before day. One of my men now served me a perfect Indian trick. ^Y. B. was a great walker. Early in the morning he passed G. and me, and traveled that day within twenty miles of home. He went into the mission early on Sabbath morning, and told Mrs. P. that he had left us about sixty miles ofi" — which was true — that I was so lame as hardly to be able to walk, and that we were just out of provisions. * The impression was made that we were in a sad predica- ment, sure enough. Saturday evening found us about thirty miles from our morning camp. Here we stopped early, and chopped wood to last us over the Sabbath, and re- solved to rest and await the result. The flour we procured of the trader was sour, and we had sour, heavy bread all the way, which would have been indigestible but for our hard exercise. But this was nearly spent, and for meat and drink we were on short allowance. We rested in our camp till two o'clock, Monday morning, when we were again feeling our way through the forest by the aid of a bright moonlight. By sunrise we had reached Huron Bay, having traveled over half a day's march on our way down. About eight o'clock we met two Indians, who had been dispatched with a supply of 118 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF provisions for us. Short as was our allowance, we had still a cold lunch left, and could have reached home on the strength of that. I felt provoked that W. B. should have occasioned my family and friends such unnecessary anxiety and trouble. After a wearisome forced march of about thirty-five miles, we reached home by two o'clock, P. M., having traveled at least two hundred and forty miles in less than two weeks, including all our delays. We often have accounts of the herculean labors performed by our pioneer ministers, who have had to travel three or four hun- dred miles on liorsehach in as many weeks. If our northern missionaries should only relate their unvar- nished story, they might at least claim to know some- thing respecting the toil and sacrifice of itinerant life, not on horseback, but on foot. Speaking from experience, we must be allowed to speak with a degree of confidence. HANDICRAFT. The missionary at so remote a post must be able to adapt himself to almost any exigency. We had, the previous fall, ordered a box of clothing from Detroit, including shoes for the family. The box came as far as the Saut, and was there detained all winter. Meanwhile Mrs. P. and Carrie were becom- ing almost destitute of shoes. I procured sole-leather of a neighbor, cut uppers out of some boot-tops, made my own lasts, and, being mostly confined to the house with lameness for several days, I made shoes MISSIONARY LIFE. HQ for my wife and daiigliter, modeled after the '' latest fashion" of Lake Superior. During the summer the country swarmed with sur- veyors, geologists, and men of all ranks and grades, in search of fortunes in the minerals which just began to be developed. Several of the Indians were em- ployed as guides, packers, and voyageurs, which ma- terially abated our forces at the mission. Three miles from us, near the head of the Bay, a saw-mill was in process of erection — an improvement greatly needed. On the third day of August the first election for the town of L'Anse was held at our school-house. The officers were J. B., moderator; B. F. R., J. K., and A. W. D., inspectors; and, in their scarcity of ma- terial, I was chosen clerk. Thirty-two votes were polled. Most of the voters came out of the woods, and returned after the election. Elections were held also at other places in the mineral regions; but, from some failure to meet the requirements of law, the elections were rendered null and void, and the country was left again, as it had been, literally with- out law. At the close of the summer we left the mission to attend conference, and make some transient visits among esteemed friends below. We coasted in open boat to Copper Harbor, thence were conveyed to the Saut Ste. Marie by the propeller Independence, and by various public conveyances reached our friends in Ohio. After a short stay we returned to Michigan. Mrs. P. and Carrie remained with our friends in l:^U LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Adrian, and I proceeded to Marsliall, the seat of our conference. Many interesting circumstances Trere connected with those visits, but I must not tax the patience of the reader with them. MISSIONARY LIFE. 121 CHAPTER YII. PERILS ON THE DEEP. Having for three years been deprived of the priv- ilege of meeting in conference, the interview I had enjoyed vrith my ministerial brethren was one of interest and profit. I was reappointed to the Kewa- wenoil mission, with a roving commission from Bishop Janes to explore the mining region, and do what I could to establish religious worship among the miners. Rev. J. "W. Holt was appointed as my assistant to teach the school, and attend to the wants of the mis- sion in my absence. Conference ended, I repaired to Adrian, where I was joined by my family. Mrs. P.'s father accompanied us. After a short stay at Detroit we soon arrived at the Saut, via Mackinaw. During the several days in which we were detained at the Saut, embracing one Sabbath, it was our priv- ilege to enjoy the genial sunlight of missionary life with other missionaries. On the morning of the 15th of October the ground was covered with snow; but as the sun arose it soon disappeared. In the afternoon the wind was fair for going up Lake Superior. After dark we were called on board the schooner Fur Trader. A very rainy night en- 122 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF sued. We had soon weighed anchor, and were dis- puting our way with the rapid current of the St. Mary's. Friday, IQtJi, two o'docJc, A. 31. Strong wind driv- ing us at the rate of ten knots per hour. All were cheerful at the thought of a quick trip. But how illusive are some of our most joyous hopes! Liko the mirage, seen in the distance, hope is only be- gotten to add weight to disappointment. We had passed White Fish Point, fifty miles from the Saut, and all was well. We sat down in the morning to breakfast, on homely sailor fare. It was about eight o'clock. No one dreamed of being interrupted before breakfast was over. Just now one of the sailors cried out, " Captain, it looks rather squally 1'^ No sooner said than Captam R. dropped his knife and fork, and was on deck. Order was given to reef the mainsail. It was promptly done. Captain R. cried again, ''Reef the foresaiV ''Ay, ay, sir.'' And the foresail was reefed. All interpreted these signs to have an im- portant meaning. At ten o'clock the storm had greatly increased; hard rain and cold withal. Wind had hauled round more to the north. At twelve the seas ran very high, raging as if some angBfr spirit had troubled the mighty deep. Our schooner rose upon the waves, and then plunged her bows into the foam- ing deep, groaning at every plunge. She was heavily freighted. Forward she had on a quantity of hay, a horse, and other live stock. The hay soon became filled with water, from the seas MISSIONARY LIFE. 123 ^vllicll swept over us. Abaft, lier deck was stowed with barrels, two deep, even on the top with the rail- ing. When a hard squall struck her, it would lay her over " on her heam ench,'^ and, much of the time, the upper tier of barrels on the larboard deck was under water. She consequently made bad weather. Mean- while one of the davits, or tackle, to hold up the boat, gave way and dropped one end of the yawl. Order was given to cut the boat loose, which was done, and for some time it was towed with a large rope. But soon the rope broke, and now our yawl was seen floating, bottom up, with the hay which had just been thrown overboard. The pump was kept in operation most of the time. Captain R., who stood at the helm all the time, was in a most exposed condition ; some- times in water up to his knees, and then forced, with the violence of the waves, from side to side of the steerage deck. "VYe were now in the vicinity of the Grand Sable, a little east of the Pictured Rocks, about thirty miles from Grand Island. We had hoped to reach the Island, where there is a harbor secure from all winds, but this was now found to be impossi- ble. It only remained for us to be driven ashore, with all the peril to which this would expose us, or to make the attempt to get back under the lee of White Fish Point, about fifty^-^' miles distant. The latter alternative the Captain chose. AYe luore ship, as the * Tn mentioning distances perfect accuracy must not be expected. In the Repository this was set down at sixty miles. The last mentioned is probably nearer correct. 124 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF sailors say, and succeeded in clearing the shore; and, sailing at a rapid rate, we rounded White Eish Point in safety, and, getting into comparatively smooth "water, by ten o'clock at night ^\e were very much rejoiced to hear the Captain give orders to let go the anchor. I have given only a faint description of the scene without. If all was storm vrithout, all was far from being calm within. Most of the crew and passengers were iiTeligious, and the voice of God, which spoke amidst the warring elements, was not in soothing ac- cents to such as were at enmity with him. It was a sober time to all on board. The most daring and pro- fane seemed awe-struck. One man who was not in the habit of praying in a calm, said he "guessed there vrere none on board but that prayed." Another said, ''I think I shall not be found at the billiard- table very soon again." The cook, a colored man, was frightened nearly out of his wits. A female was terribly alarmed. "We shall all go to the bottom," said she, frequently. Bitterly did she lament having left a comfortable home, to suffer such hardships and dangers. " 0, Mr. ," said she, " do pray for us." Many silent prayers ascended to heaven, but it was rather inconvenient to hold a public prayer meeting, when each was so sick as scarcely to be able to hold up his head. Our boat was long, narrow, and flat, setting at defiance the symmetry and proportion of the ship- builder's art, but, withal, was an admirable sailer. MISSIOXARY LIFE. 125 Her cabin, if such it may be called, was small — only four berths, and not any too neat. The table was without legs, and shoved up and down a center-post, supported by a wooden pin. When not needed it was shoved overhead. A small stove stood in the cor- ner near the hatchway. Such was the boat into which we were crowded. Two Indian girls had gained ad- mittance into one of the berths, the others were resigned to those who had women and children. The floor as well as the berths was stowed full. And those who could find no room here, found such ac- commodations as they could in the hold. The storm came on so suddenly that there was not time to clear away the breakfast dishes; these were huddled down on the floor by the stove. Scarcely had the storm struck us, before the stove tumbled, bottom upward, among the breakfast dishes. The violent tossings of the boat, the scent of bilge-water, which escaped thi'ough a hole in the floor, the strange sights and sounds all around us, gave every one a disposition to part with his breakfast; and a scene ensued so ludicrous as to excite our risibles in the midst of all our peril. Our situation was extremely uncomfortable; we could have no fire, and could not keep dry. AYith an overcoat on I was wet throuojhout. Several laro:e waves poured down upon us through the hatchway. The large seas dashing against the side of the boat, forced water through the berths, from one side to the other. "We were literally drenched, and became much 11 126 LIGETS AND SHADES OF chilled before we could have fire again — not till after ten o'clock at night. But praise to an overruling Providence for our rescue from the dangers to which we were exposed! Several causes conduced to this under the blessing of a good God. Our boat had recently been fitted up with new sails ; about the time we began to wear sliip, the wind hauled about two points to westward, which enabled us to clear the shore; but added to these were the self-possession and fidelity of Captain R. and his crew. They will ever have the gratitude of the passengers for their conduct during this severe storm. We lay at anchor till the next morning after break- fast. Having lost our boat, it was agreed to run back to the Saut and get another. Wind being in our favor, we set sail and dropped anchor at the head of the Rapids just after dark. We now landed and walked through the mud to Fort Brady, a mile dis- tant, and put up with the Chaplain. All were sur- prised at our speedy return. It vnll not be thought very strange that, after the perils and exposures on the deep, just named, the following day, which was the holy Sabbath, was to us one of the best Sabbaths of all our life. "V\^ile at the Saut, Captain B., of another boat, came aboard, either on business or from curiosity. He had the audacity to charge our mishaps to the preachers and the women. He might also have in- cluded the cats, for there was one aboard during the storm. He said that he ''never knew it to fail — with MISSIONARY LIFE. 127 women and preacliers aboard, sailors were sure to have storms." It seems that, since the sad affair of poor Jonah, preachers must be made the scape-goats, to bear off the sins of the Tars. Why the fair sex should influence the spirit of storms against our friends of the deep, it is hard to conceive, unless it be for the many long and painful neglects they have suffered from those who have followed the sea. Be this as it may, Mr. B. himself, who was a fearless sailor and a daring sinner, was not proof against storms. He was one of the unfortunate company who perished on the schooner Merchant, in the sum- mer of 1847. After a detention of another week at the Saut, trudging back and forth over the muddy Portage, now called aboard by the captain, with a prospect of fair wind, and then debarking in disappointment, really fearing that we must winter at the Saut, we left port once more, and till we landed at Grand Is- land encountered another storm but little inferior to the one above described. Nearly all the passengers became desperately seasick. The greatest sufferers were, perhaps, my wife and daughter. GRAND ISLAND. This is a large island, as its name imports, situated near the southern shore of Lake Superior, nearly midway from the Saut to Kewawenon. The soil is generally good. It is well timbered, principally with birch, maple, and beech. 128 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF LIr. ^^. came here in an early day and took up his residence. He had a numerous family gro"\ying around him. One of hrs daughters had married and settled by him. In the fall of 1845 she came, accom- panied by her lover, in a small boat to Kewawenon, a hundred and twenty miles, to be sacrificed on the hymeneal altar. The writer felt himself not a little honored by this visit from his neighbors of the Island, especially as he was called upon to perform the solemn rite. At this island is one of the most beautiful and com- modious harbors to be found any where. Wednesday, 28th, was a beautiful morning, enliv- ened by a bland south breeze. After a good rest on shore, where we shared the generous hospitality of Mr. Ws family, at twelve o'clock, M., we vrere again called on board. At four, P. M., we were nearly becalmed. At sunset the wind was slightly ahead. During the night we beat with some success. Thursday morning Presque Isle was south, in sight, and Granite Island sevei^al miles ahead. We could now lay our course for Kewawenon. We had a rough sea all day. But by the blessing of a gracious Prov- idence, the same evening we dropped anchor in the Bay, near the Methodist mission. We were now soon surrounding our own cheerful fire, to recount, with gratitude, the goodness of God to us during a long and perilous voyage. Never before did home seem so sweet. November 1st, the Sabbath after our return, was MISSIONARY LIFE. 129 a memorable day to us. The Indians came out in tlie morning, and brother H. preached them a good practical sermon. In the afternoon I preached to tlie few white residents, from Hebrews xiii, 12-14, dvrell- ing particularly on the latter part, '' Here we have no continuing city." I was blessed with great free- dom, and considerable enlargement in speaking. The congregation were melted into tears. The subject, applicable as it is to men at all times, was especially so at this time. Death had, during our absence, in- vaded our ranks among the Indians. He had dealt a terrible blow upon our small white settlement in the very sudden death of Mr. J., the carpenter, who was cut down in the prime and vigor of life. He died, we trust, not without hope in Christ. The text did not tend more to impress us with the past than to admonish us of the future. In the cons^reoiation' was a Mr. B., a respectable and worthy member of a sister Church. He was the agent of a mine at Silver Mountain, as it was called, about fifteen miles off. His leisure time he spent at our place. He seemed to enjoy much the privilege of worshiping with us. The following Sabbath he spoke in our class meeting of his strong confidence in God, and of his determination to stand, at all times, as a wit- ness for the Savior. That week was not half gone before I saw the dead body of Mr. B. taken out of Sturgeon river, whero he had been drowned. He had loaded a small bark canoe with vegetables. Ac- companied by two men he attempted to reach Silver liJO LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Mountain by water. He had crossed the Baj, entered Portage river, passed thence into Sturgeon river, where he had gone onlj^ short distance before, run- ning upon a large snag, he broke a hole through the canoe, and, in attempting to escape, was drowned. The two men made their escape, got out the canoe, and came down the river in one end, after having cut it in two. Such was the sad fate of Mr. B. Nor was the fate of the Company any less disastrous than that of their worthy agent. The succeeding season they rallied afresh to prosecute the work at Silver Mountain. They sent on a new agent, and new re- cruits of men and means. They all reached the Saut de Ste. Marie in safety. They left the Saut, bound for the . mine, on the schooner Merchant, and have never since been heard of. A small fragment of the wreck is all that has been discovered of this sad catastrophe. Mining has not since been prosecuted at Silver Mountain. Indeed it has never been a mine, only in 2^ros2:>ect. The location was a bone of con- tention when first made, and has ended in disappoint- ment to all, and in irreparable loss to some. Thus does wealth often elude the grasp of those that Avould be rich, and the glory of the world passes awaj. MISSIONAIIY LIFE. 131 CHAPTER VIII. WORK xVMONG THE M IXE R S — KE W A WE K N MISSION. The week after our arrival at Kewawenon we suc- ceeded in securing our crop and in arranging affairs at the mission preparatory to my expected absence among tlie miners. The great show of native copper, at the Cliff Mine, had but recently been discovered, which was looked upon as one of the world's wonders. Mining at that locality was prosecuted very briskly. The brightening prospect here gave a new impetus to mining all through the mineral region. Companies had been formed and mining forces concentrated, in various places, scattered over Point Kewenaw, and also in the vicinity of the On-to-na-gon river. As yet the foundation of Christian institutions had not been laid. It was to plant the Rose of Sharon among the craggy rocks of that desolate region that such a mission was contemplated. FIRST VISIT AMONG THE MINERS. November the 10th, I left home in company with two young men from Point Kewenaw, to visit and prcacli among the miners, as opportunity offered. 132 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Took Avith me a heavy Indian blanket and a pair of snow-shoes. The young men with whom I took passage, had a small Mackinaw boat. In this each took his appropriate station, one to steer, the others to row. The first day, which turned out to be rainy and disagreeable, we crossed over to the mouth of Portage river, twelve miles and a half. Here we found a number of miners encamped, all looking seri- ous as the grave; word had just reached them that Mr. Barber, before mentioned, was drowned. We tarried here for the night, and the next morning pur- sued our journey up Portage river into Portage Lake, thence to the mouth of Sturgeon river, where we aided in the search for the body of Mr. Barber. It was soon found, and taken to Kewawcnon. Turning away from this affecting scene, we made our way through the eastern arm of Portage Lake; thence by Torch river into and across Torch Lake. A mile and a half by land, brought us to the Douglas Houghton Company's Works. These were situated in a narrow chasm, between two precipitous bluffs, on the banks of a delightful brook, like the fountain of life itself, ever flowing and clear. A little above it forms a beautiful cascade, leaping down from the top of the southern bluff, dashing and foaming over its uneven bed, keeping up a perpetual roar. Much labor and money were spent here to no purpose, and the works have since been abandoned. We were comfortably and cordially entertained. Thursday, the 12th, we traveled on foot to the Cliff MISSIONARY LIFE. 13S Mine, a distance of about sixteen miles. Part of our way was a passable road, newly cut through the dense forest; the other was a rough trail over hills and valleys. It led by several locations where com- fortable log-houses had been erected and mining briskly prosecuted. But several of these locations have been abandoned, and the moldering ruins ad- monish us how often men draw blanks from the lot- tery of human fortune. I might mention each of the stations visited, and at each find something profit- able for refiection; but this would perhaps tax un- necessarily the reader's patience. Let it sufiice that I traveled over Point Kewenaw to nearly all the loca- tions, making, in this circuit, about one hundred and ninety miles — fifty-five by water, and the rest by land. I had the privilege of proclaiming the Gospel eleven times — in some places where the cross of Christ had never before been preached. Every-where I met the warmest reception and many marks of favor, which I shall always remember and prize. On my return home from this trip I lost my way in a dreary wilderness, which was to me an occasion of much fatigue and peril. As I can not but own the hand of a kind Providence in my deliverance, I will give a brief account of the circumstances. The night of the last day of November I slept at the Douglas Houghton location, on my return home. Already the ground was covered with snow some inches deep. Torch Lake was yet open; but the river forming its outlet was frozen over for three 134 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF miles and a half. Water communication to Kewa- -svenon T\-as tlms intcrrui^tecl, and I was compelled to go by land most of the Tray. Had hoped here to procure company, but no one could be spared from the mines to go any distance. Mr. F. D. and another person consented to go with me across Torch Lake, and down the river where it was frozen, to a place where some of their stores had been left. We left about eight o'clock, A. M. It was snow- ing very fast, and continued most of the day. We had soon crossed the Lake — about three and a half miles wide — in a boat; then we walked on the ice till we came to the Company's stores. Here my friends loaded their hand-train and returned. I went into the woods, and attempted to cross the strip of land between Portage Lake and Kewenaw Bay. Directly across it was only about eight miles; but there was neither road, nor trail, nor footprint of a human being to be seen. My first search was for a surveyor's line. Found several trees blazed, but could trace no regular line. I had a small pocket-compass — at best an uncertain guide in a mineral region; but it was not long before the glass came out, and it was useless to me. I was now left to guess out my way, without even the semblance of a guide. The snow was now about six inches deep, and con- tinually falling — enough to make walking hard with- out snow-shoes, but not enough for walking with them. To carry them was an incumbrance; but I dared not leave them, not knowing how soon I might MISSIONARY LIFE. 135 need tliem. These, together with my blanket and other parts of my outfit, weighed about twenty pounds. My eatables consisted of six biscuits. I had also a small hatchet — too small for any thing but to blaze trees and to cut off small limbs. So armed I plunged into the forest, climbing hills and plodding through valleys and swamps. At noon, seated on a \o^, I dined on a biscuit and a half — not such bis- cuits, by the way, as our good sisters often get up when visited by the itinerant. Those biscuits had never seen a lady's fingers; they were sorry food, suitable to the occasion. But they were the best our poor bachelors could afford — such as they were accus- tomed to eat, freely given, thankfully received, and eaten with thanks to Him who has assured us that " man shall not live by bread alone." Thus refreshed, I addressed myself anew to the task before me. From this time I was governed by the distant roar of waves ahead. The trees and bushes were heavily loaded with snow, so as to make it very wet overhead, and the low and swampy land . was not yet frozen. With my clothes and moccasins literally soaked, I had very sensible impressions, if not the most agreeable. Night overtook me in the midst of a cedar swamp. One who has never traveled through such swamps can scarcely have an idea with how much difficulty this. is attended. He must climb over fallen brush and timber; often creep on his hands and knees under logs and limbs, and press through the thick 136 LIGHTS AXD SHADES OF underwood. Siicli traveling is fatiguing in the best weather and with every possible help; but with the obstructions I met it was almost impossible to makp headway. I looked about for some time for a suit- able place to camp. At length I came to a small spot of comparativly dry land, on which stood a large hemlock, surrounded by smaller trees, mostly balsam. With some effort I made a fire at the roots of thdt hemlock. I then cut small poles, and leaned them against the tree, covering them with balsam boughs, so as to afford temporary shelter; spreading boughs on the snow within for floor and carpet. I now endeavored to provide wood for the night, which gave me no little labor, as good wood was hardly to be found, and worse to be cut into pieces with a poor tool. It was ten o'clock at night before I fin- ished this task, and even then I had not a supply. Before morning I had to chop more or be without fire. By this time I was forcibly reminded that my sup- per hour had arrived. But I was so exhausted that I felt little inclined to eat ; half a biscuit served my turn. As night closed in it commenced raining, and continued, with little abatement, through the night. The wind howled among the tree-tops, and the roar of distant waves fell on my ear. I tried to dry my wet clothes; and, commending myself and my all to God, wrapped me up in my blanket, and laid mo down to sleep. But this was nearly out of the ques- tion. Without constant attention the rain would put out my fire; otherwise I could have slept soundly. MISSIONARY LIFE. I37 1 had now a good opportunity to test the support religion can give when all other help is cut off. In the possession of that which " Gives even affliction a grace, And reconciles man to his lot," I was enabled to "Give to the winds my fears, Hope, and be undismayed." I felt not the least doubt concerning the final issue; nor did the raging elements disturb my inward tran- quillity. Early on the morning of the 2d I arose, and, after offering up praise for past mercies, and imploring divine protection for the coming day, I partook of such luxury as the place would afford for break- fast — a biscuit, ready baked. Now shouldering my pack, I left this temporary abode, scarcely knowing whither I was bound. The sun was obscured by clouds, and considerable rain fell during the forenoon, I bent my course toward the roaring of the waves. What was my surprise, when I came out, to find that I was on the shore of Portage Lake, instead of Kewenaw Bay! In bearing too far to the west, I added much to the distance and had more swampy land. Iletracing my steps back into the woods, I endeav- ored to steer my course more to the south-east. But it was, at best, mostly guess-work. Let me turn which way I would, almost impassable cedar swamps 138 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF seemed to beset me. After some time I came iu sight of a broad sheet of water, T\'hich, at first ghmce, I took to be KcTvenaw Bay, but soon discovered mj error. At any rate, I concluded to go to the -water, if possible, hoping to be able to follow along shore, and come out somewhere. But a bad swamp was betAveen, which I made three ineffectual attempts to cross. It was miry, and matted with brush and timber. My situation now became very perplexing. I was drenched thoroughly with rain and snow-water. Be- in o- much exhausted from constant and severe exer- cise, I became very thirsty, and drank several times of water which stood in hollow places. But this increased rather than allayed thirst. At one time I made a circle, and came again on my own tracks. Said I within myself, "What Indian has been along here?" for I took it, at first, to be the track of an Indian hunter; but a moment's attention showed me that it was the print of my own moccasin. I was obliged, at frequent intervals, to stop and rest; found it quite burdensome to drag myself along. Lest I should become faint and stupid, and perhaps chill to death, as many others in similar situations, I stopped to make a fire and rest awhile. But, first eating a biscuit, I felt somewhat revived, and Avent on again. Now, for the first time since I had entered the woods, the ^sun, for a few moments, looked down on me through the opening clouds. It was about two o'clock, r. M. I was enabled by this means to lay my course. b MISSIONARY LIFE. 139 Walking a little longer brouglit me to Portage river, not far from Kewenaw Bay. I followed down the shore till I came to a Pine point, from which to the Entry — mouth of Portage river — it was only a mile straight across. The beautiful Bay was in full view, and the high land in the rear of the mission at Kewa- wenon. With the fine prospect ahead, my muscles seemed to gather fresh elasticity. But I was not yet out. Between me and the Entry was a low marsh, at that time full of water. To go round this would cost me about four miles' walking. "Which would be best — to try to wade through, or to go round? I chose the first. But I soon found hard wading ; proceeded perhaps thirty-five rods, by stop- ping several times to rest. At length I came to a full stop. The further I went the worse it became, and I despaired of getting across. "Was about to turn back, and do the next best thing, but, casting my eyes down toward the Entry, I saw two sails. With a stiff breeze aft^ they were making up the river. E[ope again revived; help appeared to be approaching at a time most needed. I had waited only a few moments till two boats arrived. James Tanner was in one; his wife and childi*en in the other. They were going up the river after wood. They came to my relief. I went aboard the small boat, and exchanged wading for rowing, while Mrs. Tanner managed the helm. James went on and pro- cured his wood. We soon reached the bark-covered cabiii, and had a good fire. Dry clothes were fur- 140 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF nished, and some warm food soon provided. My appetite returned^ and I began once more to feel like myself. The past scarcely looked like reality. The nio-ht folio win o; it snowed, and the wind blew as if to unroof our cabin. And this might have been done, had not my host gone up and nailed the barks two or three times. I need make no remarks respecting my own feelings, in view of the difference between my situation in that humble dwelling, and what it would have been out in that storm. The next day I had a pretty severe walk of about thirteen miles, over a rough trail, to the Catholic mission, where I arrived at four o'clock, P. M. Soon obtained an Indian and his son, who took me in a small bark canoe, and carried me across the Bay, where, just at nightfall, I set foot into our own door, and realized once more what the poet meant when he said, " Home, sweet home ! Be it ever so homely, there 's no place like home." If the writer of this imperfect sketch, and those into whose hands it may fall, shall at last gain that siveet Jiome in the skies, we shall never find reason to regret the roughness of the way. MISSIONARY LIFE. 141 1^ •2 1 For these statistics I was indebted to agents and mining captains. They are, no doubt, an approximation to correct- ness. They err from deficit, rather than from excess. At Albion, tho Cliff, Eaglo River, Eaglo Harbor, and several other jjlaces, preached the iirst sermon over preached in those localities. At several places it was not con- venient to have public.worship. Wiien several mines were near each other, tho people usually collected from all to ono place. Generally I was obliged to mako ap- pointments on tho way, to fill on my return. Roman CatholL-s. ... 1 ; : =^ I : •_ o • -^ • • • ^l '. '. Ill : I '. '. '.I Protestiuitg 1 :: °° ::': '^ ^'^ :::::::;•.::: : H Protess'rs of Religion. 1 ; I ^^ I I ; o w o • • : j^ 1 I Zl ' ! I ! I '. Total Inhabitants.... I'-'' <^gi 1 I S S t", '. I "-^ ?{ 5^ 1 ^ 1 I ^ I I I a Xo. of Children under 1 « - O - . . ,- o i- • • - - . • • • ; CO ; • ; twelve years of age. | • i-i - - • i— i xo. of Fainiues |rH ; ^ i;;"- -~ '-^ ;:; ::::::«:: ; H. 1 1 <; .James Tanner. • F. Douglas .-•• John Hayes • • • Mr. Stevens ... Martin Coryell - David French - D. D. Brockway Mr. ]k'rnard- •- S. Mendlebaum. Mr. Sibley ... - Mr. M'Carty... Joshua Childs- i 5 o 1 1 i6! i i i i liiivk - C} ^^ < O '^ '^ Copper Harbor Vicinity of C. Harbor. (popper Harbor Hoston Co., No. 15... Hohemian Lac Labellc IJohemian , f_ .... 3:2 6:^ -) Sermons Preached... | ; ; ] ^ I '~' ^ '. [ '. '^ '. '^ '. '^ '. ." ^' I '. '. ' Miles Traveled -t* o o -ri c-i . cT cc -* re JC >--5 2C ■" ^" ^ -f - c-i't- ^2 • r-^ -Tj-- S^'^ s . 1 s sso.ja „s (2 ifillii .5° To .1il!i=i3 eSr V CCOO^^^ o « o ;: — ■ 'Zi a ci Roman Catholics ... 1 ; 1 CO 1 CC Protestants 1 ; 1 «o 1 rH Profosa'rBorRoligion | ; :::::::: 1 ;^ Total Inhabitants.... 1 '. :::::::: No.of Children under :::: ::::p twelve years of ajre. Xo. of FiiDiiUes .... 1 ; 1 iO 1 CO _j ::::'.'.:'. s §* : ^ : : : ^ : : . O . ' . zri . ' o . 3 . . . ^ . . S : pq : : : ^ : : ■s '. c : : : 2 I : o < • t-I * • • r-» • • ■ . • • ^ • • • i : : : : 6 I I I 5 • • • o ' * * g I ! c ! i ti • 1 >t E g 6 tf ^ "5 1 K - fe :S j^ .£ tc J b js W c;'^C'-<;=;^K^ Senuons Preached.. l-H ::'-""':::: m :^:^ :^ Miles Traveled CO eo M ^ .« CO o o I-i r-H r-< rH ; I I ; '. I ^ I 1 OT • • • • *. ; • ''-<'.* i -2 1 Q 1 3 7 ? II lljl a ^ 3 c 3v^^ h;^ H OiOJ ShP^H MISSIONARY LIFE. 143 SUBSEQUENT VISITS AMONG THE MINERS. December 23. Left Kewawenon to visit the miners the second time, and returned in just three weeks, having traveled two hundred and twelve miles, nearly all on foot — preached twelve times and delivered one temperance address, to a crowded and very attentive audience, at the Cliff Mine. Quite an interest was here waked up on this subject, and rising of thirty persons signed the pledge of total abstinence. A small class of eight persons was organized at the Cliff, with which we enjoyed some precious seasons during the year. Made three other visits, one in the winter and two durins the followino^ summer. The first visit I left home without scrip or purse, and, unasked, sundry persons contributed twenty -four dollars and a half for our support. The second visit they raised, of their own free will, sixty dollars and twenty cents. And so on, in subsequent visits, till it amounted to about two hundred dollars. And besides, they contributed above sixty dollars toward the erection of our new church at Kewawenon. The names of agents and mining captains, men- tioned in the accompanying table, were among the foremost in these acts of generosity. In addition to persons already named, I was much indebted to Mr. Taylor of Albion Mine, Mr. J. Senter of Eagle river, Mr. Shaply of Copper Falls, Mr. D. D. Brockway of Copper Harbor, and Judge Hawes and his estimable H4 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF lady of Fort Wilkins, T\-ith others too tedious to name. Such large-heartedness is worthy of permanent rec- ord, as characterizing the hardy pioneers of that vast TYiklerness. May their inheritance be that "which maketh rich and addeth no sorrow !" Brother Holt visited the miners twice during the year. The first time he was taken sick and confined to his bed about eight weeks. I may add, in substance, what was published at the time, in the Western Christian Advocate, that, "after many a weary walk alone, through a dense wilderness, supported by snow-shoes, on a depth of three or four feet of snow, at times wading through swamps, then climbing mountains, crossing lakes, or following the meanderings of a river, on the ice — often, after such seasons of toil, and sometimes of danger, my soul has been exceedingly blessed in preaching Christ cru- cified to the people. And although little fruit has as yet appeared, I trust it will be found, in the great day, that our ^ labor has not been in vain in the Lord.' This circuit, as it might be called, is over two hundred miles in extent, counting the zigzag trails across Point Kewenaw. Each tour was generally per- formed in three weeks, sometimes less. This made it necessary to travel more or less almost every day, often twenty-five or thirty and even more miles a day, on foot, carrying a pack weighing from twelve to tAvcnty pounds. It cost me, in all, about twelve hun- dred miles traveling, nearly eight hundred on foot and the rest by water. Such are some of the character- MISSIONARY LIFE. 145 istics of Methodist itinerancy in this region. These things are mentioned, not boastinglj, but with the most grateful recollections of that Providence who gave me such power of endurance." STATE OF THINGS AT KEWAWENON. So far as the white residents were concerned im- portant changes had taken place. An entire change had been made in the Government men — the old ones had all been displaced by others. Those newly ap- pointed, with their families, were kind and obliging neighbors, but made no pretensions to religion. The saw-mill near the head of the Bay was now in opera- tion, and several white men were there employed in lumbering, who often came to the mission to hear preaching. Two or three were persons of strict mo- rality, and well-wishers to the cause of religion; but the others had little of the fear of God, and, by their example, exerted an influence hostile to jnetj. Brother Holt taught the day school and kept up the Sunday school and the religious meetings in my absence. When at home the other duties, except the school, were shared between us. There was much manual labor to be done during the year, which de- volved mostly on me. In the various departments of labor and responsibility, we had evidences of gradual improvement, if not of very marked success. And, in their place, the gently-distilling dew, the kindly shower, and the genial sunlight, are as necessary as the drenching rain and scorching sun. Many of our 146 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF meetings during the year Tvere seasons of refreshing from the presence of the Lord. In the month of February ^ve Avere made to rejoice at the apparently- marked conversion of J. T. and his •wife, who had once been Papists. On the 21st I baptized him and his family, and received him and his "wife into the Church on trial. Mr. T. promised great usefulness to the cause of Christ. Physically he was equal to almost any emergency. He had also strong powers of mind, but afibrding at times pretty clear evidence of partial insanity. Such was the opinion of some expressed at this time. He spoke fluently Ojibwa, French, and English. His experience appeared to be deep, and his whole deportment most exemplary, as was also that of his wife. One of his little sons also furnished good evidence of conversion. I have never witnessed any where more genuine evidences of deep and heart- felt piety than were to be seen in this family. And yet I regret to state that, two or three years after- ward, at a remote station, he sadly fell, so as to bring great j^eproach upon the cause of Christ. But the details, as involving several persons, whites and In- dians, I must omit, as aifording nothing either edi- fying or profitable to the reader. The fact should remind us of the inspired caution, ''Let him that thinketh he standeth take heed lest he fall." EEECTION or A CHURCH. One of the most important movements connected with the Kcwawenon mission this year, was the build- MISSIONARY LIFE. 147 ing of a churcli. The log school-house, -^hich had answered our purpose, had been rendered tolerahly comfortable by frequent repairs. But we felt that the time had fully come when the mission needed a better house. Our limited missionary appropriation afforded us no help in this direction, and the prospect of securing the necessary means to accomplish such a work was at best doubtful. But we determined, with the help of God, to make the attempt. The few white people at our station, together with the Indians, pledged something more than a hundred dollars toward this object, to be paid mostly in work. But this was a small beginning. We called for help from abroad, but to this call there was no very liberal response, and we were thrown upon our own re- sources. But this imposed no little hard toil and care on us, in getting out and drawing the timber, making the shingles, drawing on the ice and boating the lumber from the saw-mill, planing and putting on the siding, and putting on the roof, much of which work was done with our own hands. But with the aid afforded us by the miners, and those at home, and a little help from abroad, most of which was sent to us by brother A. W. Brockway, of Pittsburg, we erected the frame and inclosed and secured it for the winter by the time we were called to go to another field. "When we went to the pinery, three miles dis- tant, to cut the timber, before we struck a blow, the little company kneeled down upon the snow, and, by fervent prayer to God, invoked his guidance and aid, 148 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF wliich we as fully believe lie afforded as that we exist. It was estimated that one hundred and fifty or two hundred dollars would complete the house, when it would be worth five or six hundred. Thus far it was free from debt. AYhile we had reason to believe that the society connected with the mission was generally in a healthy and prosperous state, two circumstances occurred at the close of the year which gave us great pain and sorroAY. We were obliged to lay aside two of the old members of the Church, but in their case there was yet hope — they might repent and be restored to God, and to the bosom of the Church. But the other evil was beyond remedy. On the night of the 27th of October three of our Indians went across the Bay to a trader's, purchased liquor and became intoxicated. They returned late at night, and one of them, too drunk to know what he was about, was left in the boat. In the morning he was found lying on the ground, on his face, near the water, dead! This story. is soon told; but 0, the dreadful end of the drunkard ! and the curse that must fall on the head of him who was instrumental in the death and ruin of this young man! His name was Joshua Soule. He was a youth of fine appearance and promise, and an exemplary Christian till he was led into this fatal snare. In this fact the reader has one of the leading causes why the Indians are a doomed race. During our stay at this mission the superintendent, Rev. W. n. Brockway, visited us once a year. Those MISSIONARY LIFE. 149 visits, few and far between, and necessarily short, were highly prized by us, and the more so as, for most of the time, we were cut off from the society and salutary counsel and help of our ministerial brethren. This remark is due also to our esteemed superintendent, who had been so long in labors more abundant to evangelize the Indians, and who never failed to make his mark. 13 150 LIGHTS AXD SHADES OF CHAPTER IX. APPOINTMENT TO EAGLE RIVER MISSION— PER- PLEXITIES — OUR NEW FIELD. The Michigan annual conference met tliis year in Ypsilanti, on the 15th of September. It Tvas more than a month after before we heard any thing about our appointment, and, even then, nothing official. We had never before been so comfortably fixed to winter at that station as now. On account of our new church, which had progressed thus far under our supervision, and some other matters not so easily managed by strangers, we had hoped to remain an- other year; on other accounts we had no special reason to regret a change. It was near the close of October, when blustering winds and occasional snow squalls warned us of the near approach of a long winter, that a breeze from a warmer cllmc, chilled in its long passage over the lakes, reached us, uttering, in language not to be misunderstood, " Arise, for this is not your rest." But many and formidable were the obstacles in the way of removal. The lateness of the season, the dangers of the Lake, rendered appalling by late and serious disasters, particularly that which happened to the steamer Julia Palmer, which for sixteen days had MISSIONARY LIFE. ] 51 been at tlie mercy of storms — all these, aggravated b}" a report directly from Point Kewenaw that, in consequence of the great loss* on the Julia Palmer, many of the miners were almost exposed to starva- tion, and that provisions "were not to be obtained; added to the fact that our own funds were- nearly exhausted — these and other circumstances gave a gloomy appearance to our future prospect. But while reflecting on this aspect of things, I was rebuked by that passage from the Savior, '-Behold the fowls of the air, for they sow not, neither do they reap, nor gather into barns, and yet your heavenly Father feedeth them." This is enough. Will God feed his birds and not his childi'en ? The want of religious society in our prospective field was a serious drawback on our feelings. But we had always made it a matter of conscience to go, if possible, to an appointment; and, therefore, re- solved to venture our all on the goodness of the APPOiXTixa POWER, and, at least, throw our length that way. For a long time we had looked, in vain, for some vessel to bring winter supplies to the mission. For nearly two months, up to the 6th of November, we had lived on borrowed provisions, and yet none came, and no way seemed to open for us to get away. The schooner Far Trader was expected by the *For want of fuel they wero obliged to burn the pork, ham?, etc., on board, to make steam to propel the boat. 152 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF lOth of November, on lier way from the Said to tlie Ontonagon. We put all things in readiness, and awaited her arrival with solicitude. November 10th came, and true to expectation the old schooner came in sight. Night had just dropped her dark brow over the face of day, when a rap was heard at the door of the mission. Who should be there? "Who but one of the hardy pioneers of Lake Superior, who knew not what it was to shrink from toil and danger? Yes, it was a missionary, brother P. 0. Johnson, and his delicate wife, w^ho had come about two hundred miles, in a bark canoe, to labor in the place of the old incumbents. This does not look like an assertion I saw some time ago in a Catholic publication, that Protestant missionaries did not penetrate into this country till ^^ feather beds/' etc., had been provided for them. No missionaries have labored in the true spirit of sacrifice more than some of the Protestant missionaries of this region. I need not say that they came unexpected, as it was the first hint vre had of the new arrangement, only so far as v>'e were con- cerned. JSfovemhcr 11. The Fur Trader came to anchor opposite the mission. But imagine our disappoint- ment when we learned that she had been driven out of her course by adverse winds — had been to the Ontonagon, and was on her downward course for Saut Ste. Marie. Nothing could induce the captain to take us to Point Kewenaw. The only alternative now left us was to coast. We were now subjected MISSIONARY LIFE. 153 to a scries of perplexities and disappointments in procuring men, a canoe, etc., which it would be tedious to name. Bj the evening of the 15th of ^N'ovember we suc- ceeded, with the blessing of a kind Providence, in finding a good bark canoe, and two able-bodied vo2/- agcurs. ' Now our goods, which had been packed for sliipping, must be overhauled, and the bare indispens- ables packed ship-shape for a canoe, and the remain- der repacked and left till spring. The whole con- stituted no great bulk, as we had no furniture of any kind. "What little we had once was disposed of on leaving the work below. And whether we could get chairs, bedsteads, tables, stoves, crockery, etc., where we were going, without any thing to buy with, was a question that it would not do to try to solve. The truth is, means should have been sent us on the start. The Missionary Society had appropriated one hundred dollars toward our support on condition we failed to get our pay from the miners. But had the rigors to which we were constantly exposed been fully known, the appropriation, small as it was, could have been subject to no such contingency. With eight dollars loaned us by a friend, after a rough journey of four days, in which we were buffeted by the elements, having, in one place, for some distance, to force our way through ice which had closed up Portage river, we succeeded in reaching our new home, adoring that kind and merciful Providence which had kept us and guarded our way at every step. 154 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF OUR NEW FIELD. After being very uncomfortablj situated for some time for want of a lioiise to live in, a place was at length provided for us by the Company. This would have been ready for us on our arrival, but our long detention at Kewawenon led the Company to think that wc were not coming, and all the buildings had been leased. On the 29th of November, much to our comfort, we took possession of our new home. This was a cabin built of round logs, a story and a half high, divided below into two apartments by a board partition, with a wood-shed made of rough boards. There was no cellar, or other conveniences about the concern, except wdiat were included within the build- ing. During the winter, when a large body of snow lay on the roof, as was often the case, the heat of the two stove-pipes, passing directly through the roof without chimneys, and the rarified air under the roof, caused the snow to melt, and the water running doAvn the walls on the outside became congealed, which, on thawing, often forced its way inside, and made the house wet and uncomfortable. Our utmost vigilance could not wholly guard against this difficulty. But our cabin was a much better one than some of our neighbors had, and we have always felt grateful to the Company for giving us possession of such a home. It is simply mentioned here as a specimen of back- woods life. Added to the house, the Company kindly furnished us with a cooking-stove and other heavy MISSIONARY LIFE. ♦ 155 furniture, whicli we were to use free of charge, and return when clone with them. They also filled our bill of supplies in the provision line, and charged to my account till it could be canceled. Mr. Taylor, of the Albion Mine, kindly loaned us a box stove and some crockery. Thus all our wants were met in a way we had not anticipated. The scenes surrounding us were different from any to which we had before been accustomed. Mining must go on day and night, the constant din and bustle of which is often annoying to one unused to such business. If you retire at nine o'clock the bell ring- ing for a change of sMfts, at ten o'clock, will awake you. This will be accompanied with the bustle of men coming from the mine, and fresh hands taking their place. Perhaps before you are fairly asleep again, you will be aroused by a car rumbling on a track, from the mineral shed to the stamp-house, where the mineral is precipitated into a large box, the bottom of which is an inclined plane, and thus con- ducted to the stamps. And then here are these six ponderous stamps, propelled by steam, which are crushing the mineral all night. Meanwhile you may hear the hammer and anvil and the incessant creak- ing of the old ivldm — a machine for raising copper from the mine — and the report of an occasional blast like that of cannonade. All these things make some noise, but the frequent fighting of several mules, in a barn near our dwelling, added to all the rest, completes the ''confusion worse confounded." 156 LIGHTS AND. SHADES OF Such, in substance, were our impressions penned on tlie spot. In the period of a year, matters had materially changed on Point Kewenaw. The two previous years the "copper fever" had raged to a great extent. The country swarmed with persons who were explor- ing it, and "laying permits," or "making claims." If trap rode could be found in any locality, having veins of quartz or spar^ with or without copper, it was thought to be a " good indication," and forthwith a permit was laid, a company formed, and the stock divided up into shares, and these were thrown into the market for the highest bidder. Sometimes gen- tlemen from the cities, a little flush with money, but green enough, as it regarded the geological forma- tions of that region, at the sight of a few rock ''speci- mens,^^ without ever having seen the prospective mine, would eagerly catch the bait thus thrown out. Per- haps, on more close inspection, the mine which pre- sented such "good indications," was located in some cedar swamp or lake. But in many places the prospect was sufficiently flattering to induce the proprietors to erect buildings at considerable cost and prosecute mining. But these prospects becoming overhung Avith doubt, such loca- tions had, in many instances, been abandoned. The ill-directed attempts of persons who came there and expected to grasp an immediate fortune, without cither capital or labor, and the extreme into which speculation had been carried, were now reacting, MISSIONARY LIFE. 157 most severely, upon the interests of the country. Sc much so that many persons abroad seriously thought mining operations on Lake Superior to be all a "hum- bug," undertaken on purpose to STvindle men out of their money. This change in the condition of the country tended materially to circumscribe the sphere of our missionary efforts. Several locations were visited at different times during the year, and meet- ings held among the miners as opportunity offered. I made one trip about midwinter, to the Kewawenon mission, and administered the ordinances to the peo- ple at the request of the missionaries, neither of whom was ordained. In my absence Eev. J. W. Holt, from this mission, supplied my place. These trips were all made on foot, as was the customary mode of traveling by land. Excepting those occasional ex- cursions abroad, our efforts were mostly confined to the Cliff Mine and vicinity. The mixed and unsettled character of the inhab- itants was not very favorable to evangelical effort. The English miners were principally from Cornwall, England, and were familiarly known by the title '* Cornish." Their dialect, though not so barbarous as the Yorkshire, is so different from the Anglo- Saxon of our own land, that an inexperienced ear is often at a loss to determine what is said, especially in rapid speech. The letter h, especially, is so much in the habit of straying away from home that he is sel- dom found where he really belongs. He usually finds about the following connections: ^^ III ivill give ihe 158 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP orse some Jioats and ay.'' In a school wliicli I taught at the Cliff, during the winter, there were some scholars that I could hardly make give the simple sound of i, Tvithout the h going before. This must serve as a specimen of the manner in which the Queen trains her subjects to ''murder the King's English." Many of the miners were German and Irish. Among the former a few were Lutherans ; the others, with the mass of the Irish population, adhered to the Komish Church. There were also a few Trench who were Romanists. Several of the agents, clerks, or employes were our own countrymen, and, in general, were well educated and shrewd business men. To make money was the object which induced most of the inhabitants to forego the blessings of home, in a better land, and endure the privations and hardships of the wilderness. Many favored the institutions of religion as a matter of policy, as connected with mining, who, so far as their own life and practice were concerned, lived in entire neglect of their spir- itual interests. It is tacitly acknowledged, even by the most skeptical, that without the moral and relig- ious restraints of the Church, it would be hard to cantrol such men as are generally employed to work the mines. Many of those miners had families in a distant land, some across the great Atlantic, whose society they had not enjoyed for years. A few knew wiiat it was to rejoice in the liberty of the Gosiiel. But MISSIONARY LIFE. 159 several had found their 'svay mto that region who had once tasted of the sweets of redeeming love, but like the prodigal had left their Father's house. In this wilderness many snares were but too successfully laid for their feet. The influences around them tended to harden them in their career of backsliding. Some abandoned themselves to drinking and gambling, hunt- ing and fishing, and other amusements on the Lord's day. To such the warning voice of the Gospel seemed lifted in vain. Vice and wickedness of va- rious kinds and degrees obtained here a luxurious growth. Our relisiious meetings were conducted with irreat inconvenience for want of a suitable place. The only place we could obtain at the Cliff was a small school- room. The class formed the year before had been broken up by removals. Soon after our arrival we collected another class of about a dozen members, with whom, during the year, we enjoyed many pre- cious seasons. Our public meetings were often sea- sons of interest and profit; and, in the midst of a far too general neglect of divine things, we have reason to believe that the efforts put forth at that station, in the name of the Lord, were owned by him to the edification of his people and the advancement of his cause. As is the case in many parts of the country, it was customary to have dancing parties as an expe- dient to avoid the tedium of the lon^:: winter nisjhts. While livin.2; at the Cliff arranixements were made 160 LIGHTS AND SHADE S OF to have a Clii'istmas ball at Eagle river. The mana- gers, several of whom, as men of the world, the writer and his family had every reason to respect for their kind and gentlemanly bearing, sent him a note po- litely inviting him and his vrife to attend. The case was disposed of by the following answer: «T0 THE MAXAGEES OF THE CnRISTMAS BALL, TO BE HELD AT EAGLE RIVeII: ^' Gextlemex, — I received your compliments to my- self and wife, together with an invitation to attend the proposed ball. The following considerations com- pel me to decline : '^ First. As it would be a heginniyig with me. I should cut an awkward figure in a ball-room. ''Second. In the earlier stages of my religious ex- perience I conscientiously abstained from such amuse- ments, as in no way conducing to a life of godliness ; it could hardly be expected that, after professing to be a disciple of Christ more than twenty years, I should be less scrupulous. " TJdrcl. In addition to the solemn vows of a private Christian, the increased responsibilities of a Gospel minister hir^-e entirely unfitted me for such scenes. "Fourth and last, though not least, I have been a great sinner against Christ; it is, therefore, befitting in me to hail the anniversary of his lowly advent with sincere and deep penitence for the past; with humble and devout acknowledgments of my present want of conformity to his will, and with increased resolutions, accompanied with prayer for Divine aid, MISSIONARY LIFE. 161 to finish my luorh as a Christian and a minister, that Trlicn death comes to my release I may have no hitter reflections on the past, and no cloud to dim my pros- pect of the future. Whether I could or could not thus salute the approach of Christmas at a ball, judge ye. With an unaffected regard for yom* best good for time and eternity, "I am, gentlemen, yours, most truly and affectionately, etc." During my residence among the miners "^e found many large and ^arm hearts to throb under the rough exterior. And while the facts compel us to speak of many evils, many things Tvere found -worthy of high commendation. For frankness, warm and gen- erous sympathy, and liberality to relieve the suffering, to support the Gospel, to aid the cause of Sunday schools, or the missionary cause, we have seldom known this people to be excelled. They have been trained to acts of liberality and hospitality from chil- dren. Convince them that a noble charity is in want, and it will here find a ready and generous response. One practice as connected with the public worship of God among them we could wish was generally in use ; that is, congregational singing. Xo people in the world are so familiar with the Methodist hymns as our English brethren. And they nearly all sing. The praises of God as thus sung by the whole con- gregation, in which the several parts are generally well sustained, come nearest to our notion of the 'lG2 LIGHTS AND SUADES OF anthems of licaven of any thing -we can conceive- " •' Jj Some of the singing we have heard at the Cliff Mine is often brought to our remembrance. With those dear brethren ive hope by and by to sing "the song of Moses and the Lamb." m iii.-ay MISSIONARY LIFE. CHAPTER X. SCENERY ABOUT EAGLE RIYER AND THE CLIFF MINE — SKETCH OF THE MINE. "What is embraced in tliis chapter, witli slight variations, Tvas penned on the spot in the summer of 1848, and published in the ^'Christian A^isitor." Eagle river is an inconsiderable stream, except at its mouth, emptying into Lake Superior about twenty- five miles vrest of Copper Harbor. It derives its name from the Indian 3Ie-ge-ze7i — an eagle — and se- Ich — a river. The small town at the mouth bears the same name. The site is an immense sand-bank, and has no attractiveness. The special want is a good harbor, as it forms the depot for the Cliff Mine and several others, is a central rallying-point for all parts of the Lake, and necessarily a place of much busi- ness. A good pier, built at great expense, supplies, in a measure, the want of harbor. Here is a regular preaching-place; but no society has been formed, and no immediate prospect of one. Mr. Atwood kindly opened his dining-hall for religious worship, and, with his family, has shown us many marks of favor. A mile'' and a half up stream is what is called Eagle River Diggings. Here are the Lake Superior Compa- ny's works — now abandoned — our place of residence. 166 LIGHTS AXD SHADES OF From the Lake, going nearly south to the Cliff, we ascend gradually till we reach the top of the hill, five or six hundred feet above the level of the Lake, two and a half miles inland. A road has been constructed at much expense — still very rough and uncomfort- able. The wet places are bridged with round logs, technically termed corduroy. The hill-side is stony and uneven. From the top we have a fine view of Lake Superior to the north. Yfhen the atmosphere is clear. Isle Royal can be seen, at a distance of fifty miles. The land is heavily timbered with birch, maple, hemlock, etc., and well watered with numerous springs. The soil is alluvial, and adapted to farming purposes. Many people get their living by farming in as rigid a climate and on poorer soil. Still it is granted that farming can never become a chief source of industry or revenue in the Lake Superior region. Passing through a defile, we gradually descend, by means of a road which winds around the side of the bluff, to the south. The natural scenery is here highly picturesque. As you descend, to your left is a deep chasm, which forms the valley of Eagle river. Here you look down on the tops of tall trees, and far beyond the land rises to view in mountainous ranges. FIcre a cold spring gurgles from the Cliff, and crosses the road; there a delightful little stream tumbles down the precipice, and makes music on the ear. To your right the Cliff now rises above you in majesty and grandeur. At the works the top of the Cliff is two hundred and twenty feet above the west branch MISSIONARY LIFE. 167 of Eagle river. Here one •^oiild suppose that nature in one of her freaks, had attempted to shake down the mountain ; for in every direction lay broken masses and heaps on heaps of the trap rock thrown down from the top. Some of these masses are as large as good-sized cabins, and have lain in their present posi- tion sufficiently long to support the growth of good- sized trees. As you look up to the masses which crop out * at the summit, you would naturally imagine that some were just ready to leap from their fast- nesses. And should they do so, woe betide whatever was beneath them. On the side of this convulsed and rocky cliff, in the midst of some of these huge rocks, are situated the houses, shops, and works of the miners. There is here no appearance of pleasantness for a village, environed, as it is, with lofty woodland, which inter- cepts the view in all directions. The office and store jomed together is a pretty good building. Some of the dwellings are tolerably comfortable, but not built with regard to convenience, or external neatness and order. Necessity has been the rule, and was a good one to begin with, but the Company has opened on a rich treasure, and will probably be disposed to bestow more taste on their future improvements. On our arrival here we found one hundred and forty persons at work at the Cliff Mine, seventy to eighty under ground, and about sixty grasB hands — a miner's term * Thi^ geological term was incorrectly jirintcd in the Visitor, cross out. 14 168 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF for surface workmen. Captain Jennings, a master at mining, was Agent, but succeeded the next summer by Mr. L. Hanna, a gentleman well qualified for so im- portant a charge. Captain J. still managed the prin- cipal mining operations, while Mr. H. took a general oversight of the whole business. The workmen are generally robust and hardy, but rough in their appearance and manners; yet, under the rough exterior are some noble minds and gener- ous hearts. To get a good view of them as they issue from the mine, you should be at a prominent place at the ringing of the dinner-bell. You may see them coming from the mine, covered with mud and dirt, and often drenched from head to foot. Sometimes they leave their light behind them, but often you will see a small tin lamp fastened to the hat, or a piece of candle in a lump of wet clay attached to the hat — all burning. The workmen now, generally in single file, make a straight wake for their boarding-house, cross- ing each other's path in nearly all directions. If one did not know better he would suppose them to be in- habitants of a world where the" sun's rays never reached ; and they are, eight hours out of twenty-four. THE CLIFF MINE AS SEEN IX THE SUMMER OF 1S4S. If the kind reader is disposed to take a peep into some of the wonders that are disclosed beneath the surface of the earth, he may please accompany me through the Cliff Mine. But before doing so we Avill go to the office and form the acquaintance of the I I MISSIONARY LIFE. 169 xlgent, Mr. Hanna, Captain Jennings, and others. Thence you will be desirous to visit the stamps, where you will see a large bank of mineral, stamped through the winter, yielding from ten to twenty per cent, of copper. Several persons are here employed in washing copper. The stamps have lately been somewhat improved. They now stamp about two hundred and thirty tuns'^per month. In one month eighty-six barrels of this copper were* washed and barreled ready for shipping. Let us now go partly up the bluff, into a large mineral shed, where the stamp-work is first burned in a huge fire, then broken to pieces, and conveyed to the stamps. Here are also several men engaged in cutting huge masses of the pure copper into blocks sufficiently small to admit of being transported. This part is attended with great labor and expense. A wagon is driven along side this shed, where these masses are raised by a crane, and thus swung into the wagon, and di-awn to the Lake. From eighty to one hundred tuns of copper, including that which is barreled, are taken to the Lake monthly. "\Ye will now go up a flight of stairs to another large level, formed of broken stone taken out of the mine. Here is a machine, worked by two horses, to pump out the mine. Adjoining this is what is called a ichim — the Cornish say wim. This is a large per- pendicular cylinder, turned by horse power, as tan- ners grind bark. A large rope is wound around this cylinder, with a large bucket at each end, which 170 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF connects Avitli shaft No. 1, to raise the rock and min- eral. To your right is a blacksmith-shop, used mostly for sharpening drills. To the north is another ma- chine connected with shaft No. 1, called a sheer; it should be sheers. {Vide Webster's Dictionary.) This machine gives a power sufficient to raise ten tuns weight. With this the large masses of copper are taken out of the mine. A little to the left, over- head, is another whim, which connects with shaft No. 2, twenty-eight yards north of No. 1. You may now turn to the right, and follow a rail-track through another mineral shed, where all the broken rock of a poorer quality is taken, and the pre- cious separated from the vile. As we turn about to see whence all this treasure is taken, you will naturally cast your eyes up the bluff, where you may see a large opening which once contained a great mass of copper. You will notice also a slide of greenstone, dipping to the north at an angle of per- haps 45°. This occasions a fault in the vein, at which the mineral ceases. Before going into the mine we must return to the office to get a change of apparel. If you are at all careful about your velvet or broadcloth, you must doff it before you go under ground. You want a complete miner's suit from head to foot. Then you must have the safe conduct of Captain Jennings or Boss Jones, who will see that each one is furnished with a candle, and a lump of wet clay to put around it, which you must keep moist. Thus equipped we MISSIONARY LIFE. 171 Avill now go into drift Xo. 1, which is on a level with most of the works we have been viewing; only ho careful, in passing hy Xo. 2, not to step off tho plank into the depths below. Here you may go in several hundred feet, where not much is to be seen, except the empty space where the mineral has been removed. We will now return to shaft Xo. 1, and go below, sixty feet, into the Adit. This is a drift extending from the river nine hundred feet north, and is used for draining the mine. Let it now be remembered that we must descend by ladders, several of which are nearly perpendicular, and one quite so. You must now pull off your gloves — if you have any on — and do not be afraid of soiling your hands as you hold on to the muddy rounds of the ladder. As you follow your guide, you must learn this lesson, and not forget it for a moment: '^ Hold fast ivith your Jiands — never mind your feetJ^ As we go down we occasionally come on to a small platform, and, by simply turning round, we take hold of another ladder. But you must not let go one ladder till you see where you are ; a single misstep may precipitate you down the main shaft from one hundred to two hundred feet. We now find ourselves safely in the Adit. This is called the ten fathom level, or drift Xo. 2. The course of the vein is nearly north and south, dipping slightly to the east. From shaft Xo. 1 we will now go north, passing over a pit fifteen or twenty feet deep, where the 172 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF mineral has been remoyed. Soon Tve shall reach shaft No. 2, "^hich we "will cross on planks, on one side, holding on to an iron bar fastened to the rock on each side. At the north extremity of this drift is a mass of copper which has been thrown down by a sand-blast, which will probably weigh from thirty to fifty tmis. This must be cut to pieces with chisels before it can be taken out. Overhead you will see, in many places, what is called a stuU, or pent-Jioiise. This consists of heavy timbers placed across the mine so as to form a scaffold. In this way the lode is all approached, and removed from one drift to another, ten fathoms, or sixty feet. This stulling is often torn down by heavy blasts, and is one source of the danger of miners. In going south we will see noth- ing very different from what is to be seen north, except that there the lode is not so rich as here. T'inding our way to shaft No. 1, we will again go doAvn sixty feet to drift No. 3. The appearance here is very similar to that in drift No. 2. Every-where you have evidences of an inconceivably rich mine. In places you will find the lode entirely removed; then you will pass huge masses of mineral not yet disturbed. North of shaft No. 2 we pass a chain- ladder, which, if you are fond of adventure, you may ascend five or six fathoms into a large opening in the mine. A little farther on we cross over a tfjinze, which is a communication from one drift to another to air the mine. This is soon to be used for a third shaft. The whole length of this drift, from north to MISSIONxVRY LIFE. 173 Boutb, is about one hundred and ten yards. If your curiosity is not yet satisfied, we may go down sixty feet further, into drift No. 4. In the extreme end north, after crawling on your hands and knees for some distance, over what miners call deads — that is, broken rock — you find yourself in a large opening, where is the appearance of a large mass of copper. The mine in this region is very rich. In this drift, among the many things too tedious to name, we notice what is called the sumjy-sJiaft. This is only a continuation of shaft Xo. 1, eighteen feet below the lower level. This, as the others, is to be sunk sixty feet before drifting again. The Captain is much elated with the prospect here, and promises for the next sixty feet to show the richest part of the mine. In what is called the country — that is, by the side of the vein — a mass of copper has been taken out weighing fifteen hundred pounds. The material is here raised to the lower drift by a wind- lass. A short time since I was visiting the mine, and, being desirous to see the bottom, my friend J. let me down in a bucket. But the miners having stopped work, water had collected two or three feet deep in the bottom. The first warning I had of this was the impression of wet feet as the tub was filling with water. This Boss Jones called siimpen. The most agreeable time to go into the mine is Monday morning when the work commences, or Sat- urday afternoon after the miners quit work. The mmc is then free from smoke. 'But if you choose 174 EIGHTS AND SHADES OF to go ■v\^hen all are at work, you will see more. Hero you may see a person liolding a huge drill, and an- other with a large hammer, making every stroke tell on the hard rock. There you may see several men, with levers, at work at a mass which has been torn loose by a sand-blast. Here you may see one wheel- ing the rock, and throwing it doT»ai through a QiiiUy where it is taken by others, put into buckets, and raised to the surface. In different parts of the mine you will hear the blast, the report of which rolls like thunder through the subterranean vaults. A dismal gloom seems to pervade the whole region, and at every turn you will be impressed with the fact that few men are so exposed to danger as miners. But what above every thing else should impress every one is the evidence of the wisdom, goodness, and power of God, above, beneath, and all around. Doubtless you are as ready now to leave the mine as you were to enter it. We have now one hundred and eighty feet of ladder to climb; but, by persever- ance, stopping a moment occasionally to take breath, we shall soon be at the top. Now we emerge from a world of darkness into a world of light. ^Ye may now return to the office, and assume our own attire, by which time it would be no very strange thing if a good meal would relish well. If the reader thinks this description of the Cliff Mine too minute, it may be a source of relief that this must suffice for all the other mines of Lake Superior — to explore one thor- oughly is to see the leading features of all the rest. MISSIONARY LIFE. 175 CHAPTER XI. INTERVAL OF C N F E R E N CE — APPO I XT M E N T TO THE INDIAN MISSION DISTRICT, AND REMOVAL TO THE SAUT. August 18tli, we foui\d ourselves at the close of anotlier conference year, and on board the propeller Independence. I had left to attend the annual con- ference which was to meet at Kalamazoo on the 6th of September. My family accompanied me as far as Copper Harbor, where, at midnight, we parted. They would have continued with me but for the extremely delicate health of Mrs. P. Mr. D. D. Brockway had kindly invited them to remain under his roof, where, with Mrs. Brockway, they were sure to have not only a hearty welcome, but every necessary attention. I feel called upon thus publicly to acknowledge the kindness shown to my family in the few weeks of their stay at Mrs. Brockway's. A DELIGHTFUL SABEATH AT SEA. August 20th, Sabbath, was a clear and delightful day. The following minute was made at the time: "Wind dead ahead ever since we started, but not enough to make a rough sea. We are in sight of White Fish Point, about twelve miles off. This has 15 176 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF been more like Sabbath to me than any I bave before seen on the Lake. I have seen no ungentlemanlj be- havior among either crew or passengers. I felt desir- ous, and prayed yesterday and this morning, that some door of usefulness might be opened to me on board. Have put a number of good tracts in circula- tion, which, in several instances, were thankfully received. At about ten o'clock, A. M., I had the privilege of conducting divine worship on board. We sung first, ' From all that dwell below the skies.' After prayer and the reading of part of the hundred and seventh Psalm, we sung the second part of the hymn, 'to be sung at sea,' beginning, * Infinite God, thy greatness spann'd.' I strove as well as I could to preach Christ crucified, to present the cross in its spiritual import and bear- ings. I opened my mouth and the Lord filled it. Ey the serious attention paid I trust it was a word not spoken in vain. We then joined in singing the cele- brated missionary hymn, 'From Greenland's icy mountain.' Rev. J. W. Holt, from Kewawenon, made an appro- priate closing prayer, and the congregation, consist- ing of about thirty souls, were dismissed and quietly retired. " In the afternoon I had an interesting conversation MISSIONARY LIFE. 177 witli ^Y, II. B., one of the sailors. He is one wlio was rescued from the wreck of the Barbara. He has sailed twenty-five years on salt water and three on fresh — has witnessed many perils and dangers. He had sailed under Father Taylor, and sat with delight under his preaching. He says he is not destitute of the comforts of religion. An old backslider, who once belonged to the Methodists, B., opened to me the state of his mind, while tears ran down his wrin- kled and care-worn cheeks. I gave him such instruc- tion as I thought best suited his case. that God may lead him to the foot of the cross ! Beside my regular Bible lessons, I was edified in the perusal of a tract and three of Bishop Morris's sermons. Judge Hawes and his excellent wife are on board, who exert a commanding influence, happily, in favor of religion." For such a Sabbath at sea I felt that I could not be sufficiently grateful, especially as I had, in several instances, witnessed such shocking desecration of the Lord's day on similar occasions. On reaching the Saut, I was urged by the super- intendent to remain here, instead of going to confer- ence, to look after the interests of the mission. There were good reasons why the missionaries should not all be absent at this time; and, though at tlie sac- rifice of inclination, I abandoned going to conference, and remained at the Saut. The families of brothers Brockway and Barnum remained at Little Bapids during this interval, where I found a most agreeable home. 178 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Mv time "^as spent very pleasantly in reading, writing, visiting, and attending to sucli duties as grew out of my calling. Several of those pastoral visits among afflicted and poor families on both sides of the river were seasons of edification to my own soul; for here I saw, in one or two instances espe- cially, the support that our holy religion can give when earthly refuge fails. I spent four Sabbaths here, during which I preached to the white citizens of the village part of the day, and the other part to the Indians at Little Rapids. Much of the time, as is often the case here at this season, we had very driving and cold easterly rain- storms. The weather was very disagreeable, and our meetings were thinly attended. I here formed the acquaintance of Colonel M"Xair, the mineral agent. Dr. Patterson, Judge Hunt, Mr. Whiting— all con- nected in some way with the business of the land- office — and Colonel M'Knight, at whose Cjuarters in Port Brady I was made welcome. The following thoughts were suggested by our meeting at Little Rapids on the evening of Sep- tember 10th: "Much is said about the poor Indians; their slowness in making improvement. But I was led to contrast the actual condition of the natives vdth the whites of this res-ion. At the villao-e the Gospel has been preached by difi'erent missionaries for the last twenty years — some of them talented and powerful preachers; but at this time there is not a Protestant society in the place, and only a few MISSIONARY LIFE. 179 scattered members to represent several Churches. If the Christian desires a spiritual feast, let him turn in and visit the mission at Little Rapids. Here is a little band decently clad and neat in their ap- pearance ; but we see no external pomp or parade — no artificials or studied decorations to please the eye or attract the notice of spectators. Each one, with a solemn and reverential step, comes to the house of prayer, exhibiting by his demeanor that he is entering a place where God manifests his presence. A seriousness becoming the time and place is seen in each countenance. It is a rare thing to see a smile, much less that airy vanity often witnessed in white congregations. They sing with the spirit, and jDray with great simplicity and earnestness. That saying of the Savior was forcibly brought to mind, as applied to the Jews: "Ye shall see Abraham, and Isaac, and Jacob, and all the prophets in the king- dom of God, and you yourselves thrust out. And they shall come from the east, and from the west, and from the north, and from the south, and shall sit down in the kingdom of God," On the 16th of September I received intelligence from conference up to the 11th inst., but no hint as to our future destiny. The same day, by an arri- val from above, I received word from my family. Their situation rendered it necessary for me to return to Copper Harbor by the first boat. And this I must do, still in the dark as to our appointment. Tuesday, September 19th, by propeller, I left the 180 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Saut. We were out t^^o days, and had to return again on account of adverse -vyeather. Friday we again went aboard, and were off once more. Our boat was heavily laden, and a large number of pas- sengers aboard, of almost every description. The night following was to the sober part of the com- pany a most unpleasant night, on account of some •"'lewd fellows of the baser sort," whose obscene and disorderly behavior was scarcely endurable. And this the more so because there were aboard gentle- men and ladies vrhose presence, if nothing more, should have commanded respect and decent behavior from the most abandoned. Among the passengers was Mr. Eichmond, the Indian Agent, and his brother, on their way to La Pointe to mahe the Indian payment. Here was Mr. Ramsay Crooks, a noble-looking man, who figures largely in Irving's "Astoria.*' After all his perils in and beyond the Rocky Mountains, he appeared to possess the vigor and sprightliness of youth. On board were the editor of the Lake Superior News and lady, and numerous others bound for La Pointe; also brother K. and wife on their way to the Onton- agon, with Mr. S., pale and blanched with the ague. It had given him a cruel shaking on the lakes. Here was also Mrs. L. Hanna, wife of the Agent of the Cliff Mine, with her three little children, going to meet her husband after a long separation. She had just buried her aged mother and her youngest daugh- ter, and was to be the bearer of this mournful news I MISSIONARY LIFE. 181 to her companion. How sad such a meeting in vie\T of the missing ones ! Saturday night Tve had a very rough sea, and the boat rolled and tumbled amazingly. But the rough- ness of the Lake quieted, in a good degree, the tur- bulence of some of the j^assengers. The Christian can much easier endure the raging of the sea than the raging of those who are "foaming out theu' own shame." This trip was, in almost every respect, in perfect contrast with our downward trip. But just at daybreak on Sabbath morning we arrived at Copper Harbor, and found all as well as could have been expected. Odoher 5. We had an arrival at Copper Harbor, bringing word that I was appointed superintendent of the missions in the district, and was urged by brother Brockway to come immediately to the Saut. But- on account of the situation of Mrs. P., this was impracticable. Though not without risk, I took passage for Eagle Harbor, where I was landed with difficulty on account of a strong south-west wind. The next morning I walked nine miles, to the mouth of Eagle river, before breakfast; thence to the Diggings, where we had resided during the summer; packed up our things, and had all down to the Lake, marked and ready for shipping, by nine o'clock at night. Much fatigued, I relished the kindly influences of "Tired nature's sweet restorer, Balmy sleep." 182 LIGHTS AXDSHxVDES OF Saturday I obtained a horse, and rode as far as Eagle Harbor, and walked the rest of the way to Copper Harbor. My feelings in view of the future were thus expressed at the time : " In looking ahead I see a world, in miniature, of labor -and responsibility. In God alone is mj trust. Aided by him I shall succeed. And how can I fail of his aid, if I hold on to his word and promise! Our way looks dark in some respects; but how often have I been consoled by that passage, 'All things work together for good to them that love the Lord!' I hold on to this promise. Though I can not see the end, I am sure it will turn out for the best in some way. Here then I rest, and find an inward tran- quillity which I would not exchange for an earthly crown. ''3Io7iday 9. This morning Mrs. P. was delivered of an interesting little son. I think we have real- ized an answer to many prayers. She came out of this trial beyond our most sanguine hopes. May we ever magnify and praise thee, our heavenly Father, who art our ever-present, ever-sufficient help in time of need! '' October 10. The Chippewa arrived from the Said, bound for Fond du Lac, with brother Holt and wife, the missionaries for that station; and brother P. 0. Johnson and family, bound for Saut Ste. Marie, to be helpers with us there." This was providential, as I could not yet leave for the Saut. Brother Johnson acted as my deputy, in MISSIONARY LIFE. 183 receiving tlie papers and other things belonging to the mission from brother Brockway. A sad affair occurred at the Harbor the same day. A young man came there a few days before, from the mines. He had in his pocket about seventeen dol- hirs, "svhich he spent in gambling and drinking. Monday night he came from a liquor-shop, near by, to the Brockway House, where we were stopping, crying murder, and calling to Mr. B. to let him in, saying that C. was going to kill him. He was brought in and sent up stairs to bed. But he raved, as most any other person would do under the influ- ence of delirium tremens. He quieted down toward morning, and nothing unusual was seen in his ap- pearance during the forenoon. But about noon he started, in front of the Brockway House, and ran with all his might, and plunged into the Harbor, into deep water, and went to the bottom like a stone. Efforts were speedily made to rescue him, but, before he could be taken out, his spirit had fled to the retributions of eternity! October 11th the Fur Trader arrived, bound for the Saut, via Kewawenon. Brother Marksman and wife, who were to be our associates at the Saut, were aboard, and a number of our Indian brethren resid- ing at Kewawenon. Most of the afternoon was spent in conversation with them. Brother Johnson left the same day for the Saut. During the time I was detained here I went again to Eagle river, and spent a Sabbath at the Cliff Mine, 184 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF preaching and administering the sacrament of the Lord's supper. October 24th the Independence arrived at Copper Harbor, on her downward course to the Saut. Two weeks had just elapsed since Mrs. P.'s confinement, and it appeared hazardous to commit ourselves to the mercy of storms; but trusting that a good Providence would ^'temper the winds to the shorn lamb," w^e went aboard and bade adieu to the Harbor, and reached the Saut in safety on the 27th instant. Here Mr. J. R. Livingston kindly furnished me with horse and a comfortable buggy, with which I con- veyed my family to the mission at Little Rapids, where, for the present, associated with Rev. P. 0. Johnson's family, w^e made our home. Shortly after Mrs. P. was taken suddenly, and, as we then thought, dangerously ill. But she was soon relieved and grad- ually recovered her strength. The change of missionaries all round, as might be expected, tended greatly to derange matters for a while. But we hoped, with God's blessing, soon to briuG; some kind of order out of the confusion around us. Our winter's supplies must yet be ordered from Detroit, and we found much to do to prepare for winter. It seemed not only desirable but indeed necessary, in vievf of the situation of the work, that we should reside at the village. The Fort w\as now without troops. Sergeant Gent, to whose care Fort Brady was consigned, kindly ofiered us quarters, rent free, I MISSIONARY LIFE. 185 during the -^vinter. We gladly embraced his offer, and took possession of our new home on the 27th of iS^ovember, when I made this note: "How transient is our stay in any one place! Well, we shall soon be done with earth, and it matters but little, so that we have ' a house not made with hands, eternal in the heavens.'" We had just become settled in the *Fort when a most sad event occurred near us. An Indian by the name of Xahbenaosh, whose residence was at Little Rapids, who had never abandoned his heathenism, and who had been accustomed to become intoxicated, came at last to a dreadful end. On the last night of November, a cold wintery night, he had turned away from the place where some one, who had the physical form and carriage of a man, had filled his bottle with the liquid poison. He found his way to a deserted wigwam, on the road to Little Rapids. Here, in some way, he set the wigwam on fire, which burned down over his besotted frame, crisping and shockingly mutilating it. The next morning a bottle was found by his. side, telling, truthfully, the cause of this wreck and ruin of another deathless immortal! On the 2d of December, a windy and snowy day, I saw the Indians deposit his remains in the grave, while a son, a devoted Christian, wept tears of inconsolable grief over one he had once been wont to call father! Such melancholy facts are most painful to record, yet they are fads, in the midst of which we were called to move, and of which we were, at times, eye-wit- 186 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF nesses, and -^'itliout their mention the reader can hardly appreciate the influences that operated tc impoverish and ruin the Indians, soul and body. In the light of such speaking facts it is easy to perceive -who are the true friends of the red man. MISSIONARY LIFE. 187 r CHAPTER XII. TRAVELS AMONG THE INDIANS DURING THE WINTER. I MADE one visit, during the winter, to the Indian settlement at Garden River, Canada, now under the care of Rev. Mr. Anderson, of the Episcopal Church. llj old friends appeared very glad to see me; and, at the request of the missionary, I preached to them. I made two very interesting trips to Naomikong, liake Superior, some thirty-five miles from the Saut, which I think deserving of a more particular account. January 5th, 1849, in company with brother Marks- man, I left home after noon. Rode in a one-horse cutter eisjht miles. P. Gr. returned with the horse and cutter, and with our blankets, camp kettle, and provisions, Vve went on afoot. Faced a cold and blustery wind, and the ice was very smooth, so that we could scarcely keep to our feet. A poor Dutch- man, on the same route, with boots instead of moc- casins, came near perishing, as we afterward learned. He turned aside and spent the night in the woods, without fire, and but thinly clad. He made out to reach a house the next day, and was thus saved. We arrived safely at Waishkees Bay just before dark. Found here a tolerably-comfortable cedar-bark wig- 188 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF TV am. The two men tvIio had left the Saut in com- pany -with the Dutchman were here, and had a fire for our accommodation. TVe immediately went to work with our hatchets and provided wood for the. nicrht. Notwithstanding the cold we should have slept pretty well, but for the smoke which drove into the lodge. January 6. After a hard walk of five hours, through woods most of the way, and on snow-shoes, we reached Carp river. Here was a saw-miil, a French family, two or three Americans, and a few Indians — the "Waishkees. As they were old acquaintances they were very glad to see us, and we must drink with them some sJiah-gah-mit-ta — hot drink, either tea or coffee. To this proposal we readily acceded, eating with our tea some bread and pork. Then we had a season of prayer, and resumed our journey. A stiff cold wind was in our faces, and the ice, most of the way, was jammed together, nearly perpendic- ular like knives, and made it hard walking and trying to our feet. Reached Naomikong before night, and put up with my old friend, 3Ionomonee, the chief, lately from Grand Island. Here were two other quite good log^houses, and the Indians, generally, appeared comfortably situated. Several called to see us, and kept us talking till the evening was spent. Sabbath a good congregation collected to hear the word of ► the Lord. They were well clad, and very attentive whilq I preached them a plain, practical sermon from "the grace of God that bringeth sal- MISSIONARY LIFE. 189 vation to all men hath appeared," etc. The Lord was present to bless. After noon brother Marksman preached on the parable of ^'the barren fig tree." This was also called a season of spmtual profit. The prayer meeting at night was a season owned of God. There was no flagging ; both the singing and praying •were in the spirit. I gave out an appointment for the next morning, at the close of which I had designed to leave for home. But on dismissing the congre- gation I was urged to go on to Te-quah-me-non, some five miles farther. It was said that the Indians there were very desirous that we should visit them. We had three or four members there — several persons were sick — one or two desired to be baptized, etc. To this call we felt constrained to yield. On returning to Monomonee's from the meeting, we had an illustration of the manner in which the Indians prize a writing. Three years before, when I had visited his family at Grand IslanJ, with a copy of John's Gospel, I gave him also a small class-book, with his own name and the names of his family writ- ten with pencil. Both of these he had preserved neat and clean. He took them out of his trunk and showed them to me. The class paper, though now of no use, was kept as a kind of memento. Accompanied by five Indians, we went the nex morning to visit Te-quali-me-non. The second house we entered we had a specimen of the supreme self- ishness of a heathen Indian. As usual, I passed round the house to shake hands with the inmates. 190 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF I offered mj hand to an old woman, who was making snow-shoes. She continued her work as though she did not see me. After giving her a fair opportunity to reciprocate this token of friendship and civility, in vain, I turned away, in disappointment, while she muttered, "I see your hand, but there is nothing in it that will benefit me. I am poor,- and you might bring me something that would do me some good." We next went to the wigwam of O-ge-mali-ioe-na- sa, or the King-hawk, Here the people who were disposed collected together, to whom I preached a short sermon from "behold the Lamb of God," etc., and baptized an infant. The erysipelas was prevail- ing — a bad type of it, and kept several away. KaJi-ha-7io-den, the old chief, sent an invitation for me to visit him in his wigwam. We went im- mediately after meeting, and had an interview with him and his family. He said that "he was very desirous to l^ve us come and preach to his people, and that this was not merely his desire, but the gen- eral wish of the people there. He said that the preacher that occasionally preached to them,''^ was a kind of scolding preacher, and the people would not hear him." Again, "he said some of the young peo- ple were not members of any Church, and if we should labor among them we might do them good." I gave him all the encouragement I could, and before I parted with him remarked, that I was glad once * A native preacher of another persuasion . MISSIONARY LIFE. 191 more to meet witli his family; that the last time I met with them was five years before at Saut Stc, Marie, when his son, Beverly TVaugh, lay sick in his wigwam. Till now he had not recognized me, and, looking up, he exclaimed, Mc-suTi oivh 'ka-gctf Is tliis tlie very one? Seeming to start up as from a reverie, he reached out his hand to me saying, BusJioo, huslwo — the word they use as equivalent to our Jioio do you do') Poor old man! he had just lost one of his fingers from the disease before named. But he had a worse disease; he was sometimes overcome with intemperance. He was a shrewd, intelligent- looking Indian, and, perhaps, but for this besetment, would lonor before have been an active Christian. Without stopping for any refreshment, eating sim- ply some crackers which we carried in our pockets by the way, we returned immediately to jSTaomikong, where, at night, we had another interesting meeting. Tuesday went six miles to Carp river, and at ten o'clock, A. M., preached to the little band there. About noon we left, and, after a walk of about four- teen miles, we reached Waishkees Bay and camped in the wigwam, which gave us shelter on our way up. Two of the "Waishkee boys had been here, and a small fire was still left. We found here some fine, fresh pike, a pretty good pile of wood, some flour in a barrel, etc. AYe commenced getting supper, but before it was ready the boys came in with a lynx and a rabbit. We all messed together, and spent the night very comfortably by keeping a good fire. But 16 192 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF tlie weather Tvas intensely cold, and a very cold day followed, but walking on the ice from this was good. At ten o'clock wc reached T. S.'s, within six miles of home. The family were just at breakfast, and urged us to partake with them. Tliis we did; and, after prayer and conversation on the subject of re- ligion, we left, and were at home by noon. Our visit was made in an auspicious time — we saw nearly all the Indians together, had six public, meetings, none of which were barren seasons, besides religious ex- ercises in several private families. ^Ye were per- suaded that we were in the work of the Lord, and that the angfel of mercy had accompanied us. To his name alone be the glory forever ! A TRIP DURIXa THE CRUST-MOOX. The Indians have no months nor years in their .calendar. They count by moons and winters. The month of March is called by them 0-nali-hun-a-ge- 2is — the crust-moon. The name is derived from the fact, that during this 7noo7i the snow is usually crusted over so hard that persons can walk on the crust without the aid of snow-shoes. The first day of March, accompanied by brother Marksman, I left home to visit the Indians at JS^a- omikonr/. Our team took us six miles, where we staid all night with the family of T. S. The next morning we left by eight o'clock. Brother M. thought we could trust the crust-moon, so we left our snow-shoes. We did not need them any of the MISSIONARY LIFE. 193 way. The day was delightful, and walking good, except where the ice was too slippery. We had soon passed Pointe au Pin. Before us some eight miles, across the ice, was Pointe Iroquois. Still fur- ther ahead was, in sight, an island called by the Indians Nod-o-wa-we-gun-e-min-e-sha — literally, the island of the bones of the Nod-o-wag,^ a warlike tribe of Indians, who were deadly enemies of the Ojibwas, and who, as tradition says, were massacred by the latter on Pointe Iroquois. Their story is that "those Indians had been at war with the Ojibwas, and whenever they killed an Ojibwa they roasted and ate him. The- Ojibwas had at that time a large village at Saut Ste. Marie. They had heard of the coming of this tribe, and took their departure from the Saut, with their wivQS and chil- dren, whom they took to Parisian Island, and there concealed them. They sent three Indians to see where the JVodozvag should camp. These the JS^od- Gwag caught on the way, killed them, and took them to Point Iroquois. Here they made a huge fire, roasted the men they had taken, and feasted and danced nearly all night. Their fire was seen by the ■^By Xodowag the Chippcwaj Indians doubtless meant the Dal^otaa or Sioux, who from time immemorial have been deadly enemies to each other. The term nadoicesai has from an early date been applied by the Chippeways to the Sioux. Nodowag is probably only another form of the same word. Governor Ramsay, of Minnesota territory, thinks that the Chippcways used the word nadoicessi as synonymous with the term enemies, of whatever tribe. See a very elaborate and able document from his pen, on the various Indian tribes under his supervision, in the Annual Report of the Commissioners of Indian Affairs, for 18-19-50, p. 68. 104 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Ojibwas, ^'ho made preparations to fall upon them. Just before day the Nodoioag all lay down, and fell into a sound sleep. The Ojibwas surrounded them, and so arranged that two persons should seize on each tent simultaneously. By this means, at a given signal, each tent was thrown down on its inmates, who were all captured and slain, except one, whose ears they cut off, and then sent him home to bear the news to his friends." Brother M. said that his father had often seen the bones which had covered this place of slaughter. Hence the name of the little island just at the end of the Point. This was one subject of conversation as we crossed this long icy bridge. Another topic of discourse while making this long traverse was about Indian medicine men. Brother M. said that "his father had designed him for a med- icine man, and, till he was fifteen years of age, he was more or less instructed in those mysteries. He was taught that the instruction thus given was to be kept as a profound secret — that it should be known by none except those who were members of the fra- ternity. A^ their great Ilittas, or onedicine feasts, persons were initiated into these mysteries. They usually had six persons, males, called elders, who performed the services of the gods of medicine, and one female, for the goddess of medicine. The cere- monies were performed in a large wigwam, in the shape of the horizon as it appears to the eye. This was to resemble the earth, which they considered a MISSIONARY LIFE. 105 great wigwam, with the sky for a covering. Their songs were a kind of praise to the Great Spirit fcr the good effects of the medicine. And without this praise to the Great Spirit they consider that he woukl be angry, and the medicine be without its desired effect. They must handle every kind of med- icine as something sacred, and never use harsh lan- guage in addressing any god. Old men they were taught to respect. They must never be trifling; *for,' said they, Hhe eyes of the Great Spirit are as large as the sky, and he sees all that we do.' These medicine men must be well dressed and appear respectably." Thus employed time passed pleasantly, and we had soon reached the Point, and then the island, near which we seated ourselves on a large piece of ice, and ate a lunch of crackers and cold pork. So true is it that ''there is but a step between the sublime and the ridiculous." A little after noon we reached Carp river, and were warmly received by the "Waishkee family. They went to work immediately to prepare us some warm victuals. One of the viands was a great treat — it was Carahoo meat, tender and sweet as any venison. We could not avoid thinking of patriarchal simplicity in eating of a good warm cake and "savory meat" taken from the forest. Here we rested awhile, wor- shiped together, and were again en route for Naomi- kong, where we arrived after a walk of twenty-eight miles, but not without weariness. 196 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF We stojoped with Monomonee, who, with the other Indians, met us cordially. I never witnessed a more beautiful appearance of the sky than as seen just about sunset. Not a cloud was to be seen, except in the north-west one of milky appearance. . The sky above and around vras of trans- parent blue. To the w^estward it w^iis of a mellow golden hue, with a purple tinge. As the sun was receding from view, the reflection was like a lambent blaze in the tops of the intervening trees. The scene was a reflection of the glory of God. "How mani- fold are thy works, Lord: in wisdom hast thou made them all!" March 3d, accompanied by Monomonee, we left to visit Teqiiahnenon. We had not gone far before brother Marksman was obliged to turn back. He had lamed his feet the day before by walking on the hard ice. So I went on without an interpreter. Here we visited several families, and had a season of worship at the lodge of 0. We also called on She-gud, a very devoted Christian Indian, a deacon in the Baptist Church, but in a declining state. After a short conversation with him I left, craving the blessing of God upon him; to which he responded, ^'Ah pa-gisJi Jca-gate'' — ''This is ivliat I sincerely desire'' One such monument of the saving power of the Gospel is worth years of missionary toil and sacrifice. Deacon She-gud has since gone to his reward, loved and lamented by all who knew him. We now returned to Naomikong, fatigued from our MISSIONARY LIFE. 197 vralk on the smooth ice. My feet "were blistered and sore. . Just before nii^ht the doo-s commenced barkmsr and running toward the Lake, announcing an arrival from abroad. It was old sister Waishkee, from Carp river, with her two daughters-in-law, come to enjoy the communion with us the next day. She was prob- ably sixty or seventy years of age, large and fleshy, and could riot walk far on the smooth ice, though vigorous for her years. Her daughters drew her most of the way on a hand-train. This looked like old-fashioned Methodist meetings, when people could work a little to attend them. In the meeting at night we read and explained the General Rules of the society. Sabbath morning was most lovely — a fair emblem of what it was to be to us spiritually. Early in the morning two of sister "\Vaislikee's sons arrived. At nine we met for love- feast. After the introductory services a most inter- esting relation of Christian experiences followed. No time was lost. I could with difficulty close the de- lightful exercises by eleven o'clock. Others were still ready to speak. Nearly all seemed to feel that God was in our midst. My attention was attracted more particularly by an aged widow, an aunt to brother Marksman. She lived about a mile from the settlement, in the woods, and could seldom get out. Brother M. had visited her on Saturday. She ex- pressed great desire to meet with us on Sabbath; but she was in charge of two little children, and did 198 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF not know liow to leave tliem; besides lier daughter and little boy had gone to the Saut for provisions. How she managed to be there I did not learn. At any rate she was in the love-feast in season. She was plainly but well clad. She had on a good broad- cloth shawl and a clean checkered apron. Her face was furrowed with age, but her hair not much turned. The expression of her face indicated a serene frame of mind and deep devotional feeling. I occasionally noticed the moving of her lips ; then with her hand- kerchief she would wipe the tears from her eyes. After the meeting had progressed at some length, she arose. A brother arose at the same time, but gave way. She then commenced, in a subdued tone, to relate what God had done for her soul, occasion- ally pausing to give vent to her overflowing heart in tears. Among other things, she said that ''she had not language to express ivhat she felt in her heart of the goodness of God.'' When done speaking she fell on her knees, with her face on the mat on which she had been sitting, and continued for a time as if en- gaged with God in prayer. Thus passed away this most interesting love-feast. It was good to be there. The public meeting was one not soon to be for- gotten. We administered the sacrament of the Lord's supper to twenty-three. The hearts of most, if not all, were deeply affected. At night brother Marksman preached to a full attendance on the ''one thing needful." The people heard the word gladly. MISSIONAEY LIFE. , 199 After the evening meeting, Tvliich closed about eight o'clock, we accompanied our friends from Carp river to their homes, and tarried T\'ith them for the night. I was led then to remark : " I sometimes won- der how I can endure such continued and hard exer- cise, and yet feel no inconvenience, only occasional weariness." Monday morning, about nine o'clock, we left for the Saut. We passed over the first eight or nine miles quite comfortably. But after we rounded Point Iroquois we encountered a severe snow-storm, driving full in our faces the rest of the way. But we reached home before night, finding all comfortable but our little son, who had been quite unwell during my ab- sence. Thus ended our trip during the crust-moon. 17 200 LIGHTS AKD SHADES OF CHAPTER XIII. SUMMER'S TOUR AND THE MISSIONS EN ROUTE, On the 8tli of June I left the Said, on the schooner , to visit the missions. There were on board some eighteen, including crew and passengers — rather a motley mixture of Cornish, Belgians, Irish, and Americans. Some soon rendered themselves con- sj^icuous by their profanity. Several were seated astern, to whom the captain remarked: ^'Gentlemen, we have a very pious man on board; I hope w^e shall hear no profane language." He was not aware that the person to whom he alluded was in hearing, who immediately responded, "I hope the gentlemen will bear in mind that they are in the presence of God;" taking the liberty at the same time to expatiate on the evil of swearing, even as a social wrong, to say nothing of its moral turpitude. All readily acquiesced in what w^as said. But several afterward forgot them- selves, among whom was the captain himself. We arrived at La Pointe on the evening of the 14th. We had alternate spells of fair sailing, head wind, rain, sunshine, and fog. A sudden squall struck us before we came into harbor, which gave all hands on board as much as they could attend to for a short time. As we were on the Lake durinsr the Sabbath, MISSIONARY LIFE. 201 I endeavored once to preach to those on board. Whether any good was done or not, both the mes- senger and his message were treated with respect. At La Pointe I was kindly welcomed and hospitably entertained at the mission of the American Board. TEIP TO FOXD DU LAC. I was obliged to lay over one day at La Pointe, to procure men and an outfit. "We now exchanged a schooner for a three-fathom birch-bark canoe. Sat- urday, the 16th, with two good voyagers, I left at half-past six, A. M., one of the men prepared with two small oars, the other and myself with each a pad- dle. " ATent about eight miles and stopped for break- fast. "While the men were preparing our repast, I took out my old and well-tried Bible, and commenced reading, with a little surprise, as it was my lesson in course, Isaiah xliii, 1, 2: ''But now thus saith the Lord that created thee, Jacob, and he that formed thee, Israel : Fear not ; for I have redeemed thee, I have called thee by thy name; thou art mine. When thou passest through the waters, I will be with thee; and through the rivers, they shall not overflow thee,'' etc. I had afterward, several times, occasion to rely on this cheering promise. The Lake was calm most of the day. Toward night wind was from the north-east, and a heavy sea rolling in toward the shore. We were obliged to camp rather early on this account. For this purpose we found a convenient nook, sheltered by a high sand 202 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF clifF. In this ^Nvild and desolate spot we rested during the holy Sabbath. At times TN'e -were much annoyed by musketocs and black flies. My men were not Christians ; I, however, sung and read prayers to them in Ojibwa. Fanned by the Lake breeze, and cheered by the music of its surf, I spent the day happily in reading, meditation, and prayer. June 18. It thundered, lightened, and rained very hard during the past night. Early in the morning a torrent was rushing doAvn from the cliff, just before our tent, forcing together great stones, and bearing sand and limbs and every thing before it, lacking -but little of undermining our tent. A tree-top broke off and fell across the fire. The contents brought from the hill nearly filled up our little harbor. The water of the Lake all the rest of the way was turbid, from mixture of red sand and clay. We struck our tent at six o'clock, in the midst of a heavy fall of rain. Lake calm till eleven o'clock, A. M.; but we became, as the Indians say, ah-jn-cJie, sah-bah-we, that is, drenched. Now wind sprung up from the north-east. ^\e ran into the River Brule — made a sail of an In- dian blanket — took some refreshment and put out to sea. Before we were out long we had all the wind we desired for our little craft. For a time the dense fog almost hid the shore, but it gradually disappeared. We made fine weather and gained the entrance of the St. Louis river before sundown, and camped about eight miles up from its mouth. June 19th we left our camp at four o'clock, A. M. MISSIONARY LIFE. 203 Wc found tlie river very high, and tlie lo^vland com- pletely overflown. It Tvas extremely difficult to tell where and which was the main channel. AVe were hemmed in with a dense fog, all around, and the men were puzzled to find the way. All the way the cur- rent was very rapid. One of the men went ashore and ascended a little hill, and saw, at a distance, some Indians taking up a net. We went to them and ob- tained directions. We had been on our course. The fog gradually scattered, and, with hard tugging, we reached the Fond du Lac mission at half-past nine o'clock, A. M., in good order for our breakfast. "We passed several canoes with Indians fishing, who called to us, ^'ha-kali che-hah-qua,'' that is, stop and cook your breakfast. They seemed to feel a deep and special interest in the matter. "\Ye found brother Holt and wife well, and we were glad to meet each other again, even on a heathen shore. The native missionary, who was a member of the annual confer- ence, and his wife, had sadly fallen and left the place, doing irreparable injury to our mission. It is justice to them to say that they were led astray under the strongest and most exciting provocations. But we must be excused from entering into the unedifying details. FOND DU LAC MISSION. There was here, during the winter, a prospect of a good revival. Things looked more than encouroging; but the circumstance just mentioned cast a gloom 204 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF orcr the prospect, and tended to dampen the efforts of the missionary. A school was taught, numbering t-\yenty-eight scholars, and a Sabbath school consist- ing of about thirty scholars. Owing to the late freshet, things about the mission looked like deso- lation. The river had not been known to be so high in a long time. Where the wigwams of the Indians had stood, they passed with canoes, and they were forced to remove their lodges to the upland. The mission-garden and several other gardens had been submerged, several houses were surrounded with water, and nearly the whole looked like a great mor- tar-bed. Y\lth the exception of a few, the Indians here had made but little advancement from heathen- ism. But even here there had been good fruit, as a result of missionary toil. In some respects this was a point of importance ; but without a speedy change for the better, we had our serious doubts as to the propriety of continuing our efforts here. INDIAN COUNCIL. While here I met the Indians in council, to hear what they had to say about matters in general. The head chief, Shingobe, distinguished for nothing but his chiefship, was present, and Kah-gali-niqo, a sub- ordinate chief, but tlie man of the band, and rather a marked character. Doctor Korwood thought him to be the most talented man in the Chippeway nation. He evidently thought himself to be a great man. He came to see me in the morning previous to the coun- MISSIONARY LIFE. 205 cil, dressed in a military coat highly ornamented — a gift from some one — with a cane in his hand, and with airs so lofty that he might have been mistaken for the lord of the land. Quite an assembly met, most of whom were miserably clad; some with their fiices painted, others were blackened, and nearly all grotesquely ornamented according to Indian custom. I told the Indians that I had come as a stranger among them, was glad to see them, and, at their request, had met with them to hear what they had to say about matters connected with the mission. Spoke to them respecting the object of missions; told them I was anxious to learn what good the labors of the missionaries had done among them, and that their friends below often inquired after their welfare, and their progress in religion and civilization. I then gave way for a reply. After a little consultation, Kah-gah-nup blew upon his hands, rolled up his shirt sleeves to his elbows, spoke a few words sitting, then came up and gave me his hand, and said in substance : "My friend, you are from a rich country, where every thing is fine and flourishing. You heard about us a number of years ago, and thought you would come and teach us, and preach the Gospel. As you came this way you found things look poorer and poorer. Very great difference when you came here. You found us very poor people, living in the woods. You always speak to us about the name of God. Now God is a charitable being. His disciples ought also to be charitable. Now I do n't see this charity. Indians 206 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF arc very poor and hungry, but the missionary does not feed them. And now I want to know who pays the money to support the mission? Do the white people below, or does it come from the Indian an- nuity? And as for the school-teacher, he does not do his work right. When men are hired to work they go at it early in the morning, and work all day. The missionary waits till the sun is up high, just as the farmer. If his boss were here perhaps he would do differently. But the teacher does not teach longer than one can smoke a pipe.* The Indian is like the wild fox in the woods. When we want to catch him we put bait in the trap. But you do not put on the bait; therefore, you do not succeed with the In- dians. And now I will say no more, and when you have spoken I will reply." I answered his speech briefly, reminding him that, for several years, missionaries were sent to them at the expense of the Missionary Society, and that, since the treaty, they had drawn a small portion from the Indian annuity, but that still the Missionary Society bore most of the expense. As to our charity, I told him that we endeavored to do what we were sent to do — that we were not sent to feed them, but to preach the Gospel to them, to teach their children, and point out the way for them to be happy — that if they would only abandon their heathenism and go ^ The missionary thought this a pretty good eulogium on his services, as some of them could smoke a pipe nearly all the time. i MISSIONARY LIFE. 207 to work as the white people do, they would not be hun- rrry and jro bessrins: about for some one to feed them. I pointed them, for example, to the Indians at Kewa- wenon, and at Saut Ste. Marie, under the care of our missions. As to what he said about the teacher, I was not fully informed as to the facts in the case, but had reason to believe that, on a little more re- flection, he would be disposed to -alter his speech. Told him what was customary below about teaching — that it would not be for the children's good to be kept in all day. And more than this, that the teacher was often compelled to desist from teaching for want of children; that Indians often suffer their children to run about and play instead of going to school. Sometimes a goodly number came, and sometimes very few. And finally, that the bait we put into the trap to catch the fox, was to present that before him which would improve him every way in body and in mind, and raise him up to the same station that the white people occupied — that this was the best bait we had to present. lie arose again, and said : " If we employ a man to work he expects something to eat, and we feed him. If you want the Indians to do something you must feed them." He seemed to imply, in what he said, that the Indians were conferring a remarkable fiivor on the missionaries to send their children to school, and to attend the meetings, and that they ought, at least, to be fed, if not well paid for such meritorious acts. 208 LIGETS AND SHADE S OF The head chief, a Catholic, made a few remarks, the principal of T^'hich were, that ^' they did not want our missionaries there any more ; and that the right to cut grass on a piece of wild meadow, for which brother Day, a previous missionary, had given him a coat, could not be granted any longer — that he would return the coat again [after having worn it about a year] to the mission." Of cou:rse we de- clined his generous offer. I told them plainly, in conclusion, that if they judged themselves unworthy of the Gospel, after having made sufficient trial, we should turn to others.^ Here I became nearly discouraged respecting the prospect of going to Sandy Lake. An old and ex- perienced voyager told me that I could go, but should need the best kind of men; that we must carry canoe and all around all the rapids, which, he said, would take us seven days, only to ascend. iSTearly all the Indians spoke very discouragingly. They said, ''If you go you will drink water." They meant we would be drowned. The men who accompanied me from La Pointe became frightened, and were for going no farther. But I was favored with an interview with Dr. Norwood, employed in the geological survey * In regard to the kindness of our missionaries in feeding the Indians, the sick of some of those very persons, who uttered such loud complaints, were visited, almost daily, by brother Holt and his amiable wife, and food carried to them. Their hospitality, to the poor around, had a limit, that was their means. The other complaints, as I leai-ned from reliable sources, were not founded in truth, but in extreme ignorance and selfishness. MISSIONARY LIFE. 209 on the nortli sliore of Lake Superior, and well ac- quainted "svitli that entire portion of^the country, which fully satisfied me that the difficulties and dan- gers, though not inconsiderable, were magnified. In this view I was confirmed by conversation with XciIl- gali-nup. I employed an additional man, well ac- quainted with the rivers. We took a Frenchman from Dr. Norwood's party, who desired to work his passage through to the Mississippi. Brother Holt concluded to accompany us. "With a force of six we were prepared to oppose a pretty stiif current. But by adding to our strength we also increased our burden. Thursday, 21st of June, we were ready to start at eight o'clock, A. M. OUR EOUTE. About three miles from Fond du Lac, up the St. Louis river, commences what is called the Grand Portage. The distance across is called nine miles. Here is a succession of rapids, impracticable either to ascend or descend. Every thing must be carried by land; not in wagons, or on horses, but on men's backs. We were favored in being able to leave one canoe on this side, and get one of the oSTorth Fur Company's on the other side. Part of the way walk- ing was good; but, in places, quite muddy from re- cent powerful rains. We reached the end of this Portage at two o'clock, P. M. Here we stopped tc gum our canoe, but were soon under way, stemming the rapid current. After some exertion, moving at 2i0 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF a slow rate, ^\e reached Knife Portage. Distance across is three and a half miles. The fullness of the river enabled us to shorten the portage a mile and a half. Here ve landed safely, after having ascended one of the most dangerous places. ^Ye soon had all over the portage, and vrere camped for the night. Friday, 22cl. "We had a succession of rapids till Tve crossed Grand Kapids, at one o'clock, P. M. Some of these -we had much difficulty in ascending. Poles Tvere used "wdien the TN'ater "^'as not too deep. At times T^'e succeeded by getting hold of bushes and limbs of trees, and thus pulling ourselves along. Sometimes when our paddles were insufficient we found it necessary to cordell; that is, to use a rope. But this could seldom be done, except for a short distance, on account of trees, etc. Occasionally large trees were found lying in the rapids, which it was difficult to get around. AYe avoided some difficult rapids by following channels which the river had forced among the trees; but in one of these places we came very near breaking our canoe. Even here the water was very rapid. Having ascended the Grand Rapids, we were over the worst, although the current of the St. Louis is very strong all the way. We traveled till eight o'clock, P. M., and camped; were much annoyed by musketoes. During the night we had a heavy thunder-shower; lightning struck near us. Saturday, 2Sd. At half-past four o'clock we left our camp. At two o'clock, P. M., we had reached MISSIONARY LIFE. 211 the moutli of East Savan river. This river wa3 spread over all its bottoms; but Tve found smooth water, and current light, compared with what we had passed over. AVe now made good headway. Be- tween five and six o'clock a dark cloud arose before us, and distant thunder warned us of an approaching storm. As soon as we could find a convenient spot, we went ashore, and erected our tent. But this was scarcely done before a deafening peal of thunder fell near us, and the lurid lightning flashed in our faces, and, quick as thought, a hurricane swept by us, breaking off a large number of trees as if they were rushes. We all forsook the tent, and stood and took the driving storm, securing a position on the shore where we had no trees in range of the storm. T\.e received a fine wetting, but no farther injury. The storm was fierce, but soon subsided, and we went on again. Just before sundown we reached the head of the river, and camped down on the wet grass, with water all around us, scarcely afi*ording a place suitable for our tent. I thought I had often seen musketoes, but will not attempt to describe the salu- tations we here met. Supper was prepared, but our situation was so uncomfortable that we could scarcely eat. Another heavy thunder-shower now poured down on. us. Sahhath, 24ttJi. "We had now some twelve miles of land portage, and about four miles across Sandy Lake, to reach the mission. Had we been below, with an appointment thus near, we should have felt it our 212 LIGHTS AND SHADES 01 duty to go to it. Here Tve could only meet with our bretliren once a year, and make a short stay at best, and besides were not situated for a quiet observance of the Sabbath. Accordingly, obeying the convic- tions of duty, we went into the mission in the early part of the day, and spent the afternoon with brother and sister Spates, our missionaries, in religious exer- cises, finding it rest and pleasure both to soul and body, to be out of a dismal swamp, and at the end of a fatiguing and perilous voyage. . At four o'clock preached to the little company which assembled. God was with us of a truth. We all felt it good to wait on the Lord. For w^ant of wine we did not admin- ister the sacrament of the Lord's supper either here or at Fond du Lac. It had been administered at both stations during the winter by brother Spates. Monday, 25th, was a very busy day with us. ^Ye had the temporal business of the mission to arrange ; many things to talk about respecting the present condition and the future operations of the mission, and various calls to which attention must be given. PEATS or A COXJUKER. Li the afternoon we were invited to go to the lodge of one of the chiefs, whose son was very sick. It was announced that an Indian medicine man would SAvallow some bones. The wigwam was spread around with blankets, leaving a square in the center for the fire. The invalid lay on one side, his father seated near him. On the other side were two plates of MISSIONARY LIFE. 211! sugar, and spoons in them. Another plate contained y^'iiter or broth. In this ^'as a piece of horn cut off at each end so as to leave it hollow. It was about four inches long and perhaps three-quarters of an inch in thickness. Beside this was a bear's claw, with two brass nails in the large end, and several small pieces of bone, two to three inches long, and a fourth to a half an inch in thickness. The plate was covered with a rattle, made similar to their drum, with hieroglyphics painted on each side. It was about eight inches in diameter. The conjurer came and took his seat by the head of the sick man. An- other came in with a drum. The performer took a little pail of water and washed his hands — they cer- tainly needed it — and then rinsed out his mouth. Now he offered a kind of prayer to the Great Spirit. He stated that "it was made known to him when a little child that he should swallow bones; that his mother charged him not to make a show of this, and that it was not for the purpose of making a show that we had been invited to see the performance." He spoke very rapidly, and appeared to be in a kind of agony. During this the invalid showed signs of great distress, groaning and pressing upon his abdo- men with his hands, and changing his position. The prayer ended, he took his rattle and began to shake it, occasionally beating himself with it on one shoulder, then on the other, then on his back and breast in rapid succession, bending forward toward the plate, and drawing: in his breath as if he would take in the 214 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Lones witliout toucliing them. The man "with the drum meanwhile kej^t u^d a constant drumming and jingling of little bells. Now he put his mouth to the plate, took one of the bones, and made a dreadful struggle as if attempting to swallow it, beating his back and shoulders with the rattle. Then he would spit it out, and take another, and thus he continued till he got them all in — bones, bear's claw, horn, and all — and, for aught any one could tell, had actually swallowed them. Though I watched his throat very narrowly, and could not perceive that he swallowed, still they had disappeared, and they went into his mouth. Then he vomited them all out again, during which his face was all contortions, and he writhed and sweat as if he had been in the agonies of death. Kow he would take one of the bones in his mouth, and press it upon the body of the invalid, during which he appeared tranquil and serene. It acted on him like a charm. Query: Wherein does this differ essentially from modern spiritualism? Is not Satan at the bottom of the conjurer's art, and equally so as it respects mod- ern necromancy? We felt, at least, as if we were in the very precincts of his majesty's darkest domain. After this the Indians met in council to deliberate on matters concerning the mission. They spoke very highly of their missionary, called him their father, and said they loved him much. But they had some fault to find with him — he did not feed them quite enough. They would be glad also if he would give MISSIONARY LIFE. 215 them more clothing ; and they were especially desirous that he should keep a good supply of medicine on hand to doctor their sick. They complained of their inability to make their children go to school as they desired. They had much to say which amounted to but little ; and, to close the whole, one of the chiefs remarked, " Our father is here, and does not give us any thing; if our mother were here, we know she would give us something." We left them with such instruction as we thought adapted to their case. Accompanied by the other missionaries, I went to see the Mississippi, distant only a half mile, where we bathed in the outlet of Sandy Lake, and returned again to the mission. Here we closed the day with a family prayer meeting. It is worth all the world to be in such a praying circle in a heathen land. I shall not soon forget that sweet, refreshing season. SANDY LAKE MISSION. I was happily disappointed when I came to see this spot. Here was the most complete contrast I 'ever beheld between paganism and Christianity, barbarism and civilization. On the one hand were rude lodges, with inmates rolling in filth, and steeped in the moral pollution of heathenism. In the midst of scenes the most revolting stood the Methodist mis- sion, a plain but comfortable log building. Brother S. had paled in a little door-yard, with shrubbery and plants tastefully growing within. He had inclosed his garden with high pickets, and had a small field 21G LIGHTS AXD SHADES OF adjoining, planted mostly in potatoes, Avliicli looked verj well for tlie time. Every tiling without looked thrifty and prosperous. The gardens of most of the Indians had shared the same fate as at Fond du Lac ; they were buried under the freshet. A time of suf- fering AYas anticipated among the Indians as a con- sequence, in the destruction of the rice crop. The mission had not been without a degree of prosperity, though small. There were but six members, and one on probation. The school had been better attended than any previous year. It numbered, for the year, twenty-three male scholars and nineteen female. The children had made some advancement in learning, but, as they were situated, we could not hope for rapid progress. In this survey we felt that our zeal should not rise and fall in proportion as our reports were full or destitute of glowing statistics, but in proportion to the value of one soul truly enlightened and saved. Tuesday, 26th, we parted with our friends at Sandy Lake, at eight o'clock, A. M. At five o'clock, P. M., the next day, we were at Fond du Lac. The distance between these stations is nearly one hundred miles. "We passed with great rapidity over the frightful rap- ids, which caused us so much toil on our way up. Here we spent the night, and preached the next morn- ing to the little society. We left the mission at two o'clock, P. M., and by traveling all night Friday night we arrived at La Pointe on Saturday, before noon. Spent the Sabbath here, entertained, as usual, I MISSIONARY LIFE. 217 at the mission of the xVmerican Board. I preached once to Rev. Mr. Hall's congregation. Monday we Tvere •v\-ind-bound. Tuesday Tve left for Kewawenon, where, after hard toiling, we arrived on Friday at ten o'clock at night. We met with a happy greeting from brother Barnum's family, whose repose we were under the necessity of disturbing. Found sister B. in a declining state of health, and doubt entertained respecting her recovery. She regretted to be des- titute of the counsel and aid of a good physician, but was waiting, resignedly, the will of God. THE KEWAWENOX MISSION. It was gratifymg to witness the degree of pros- perity that had attended this mission. The Indians were in a high degree of improvement compared with those before named. Their crops this year were larger than any previous year. They were adding to the comforts of their dwellings, and increasing their stock of cattle. The Church numbered forty- three" members, and nine on trial. The school num- bered twenty males and thirteen females, which also composed mostly the Sabbath school. The Indians were all busy on Saturday in making a road. I im- proved this time to transact business matters with the missionaries. In the evening we had a meeting of the Indians to attend to the business of the Church. Sabbath morning, at nine o'clock, we met for love- feast. It was truly a time of God's power. An invitation was given for persons to unite with the 218 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Churcli, while we should sing. Several old back- sliders came and gave us their hand; one young man, also, who had lately renounced heathenism. The hymn was named, and all tried to sing, hut the sing- ing was so interrupted with sobs and cries that we could scarcely proceed. At eleven o'clock the house was well filled, and I had the privilege of preaching to them, while they listened with deep and fixed attention to the word spoken. I trust the efi*ort was not in vain. In the afternoon we baptized the young man who had renounced heathenism, and three infants, after which we administered the sacrament of the Lord's supper. In the evening I endeavored to preach, plainly and pointedly, to the white people, on the new birth. During the three years I had resided at this mission, I enjoyed many precious seasons with my Indian brethren, but none more so than this last. Nearly all the forenoon Monday was spent in con- ference with them, and I had literally to force myself away to leave for Eagle river at two o'clock, P. M., July 9th. Nearly all, from the least to the greatest, were on the dock to shake hands, and say hiisJioo, as we launched our canoe, bade them farewell, and departed. We arrived at Eagle river the next evening, where I took leave of my two voyageiirs and the canoe which had accompanied me for nearly seven hundred miles. The men proved themselves to be trusty and faithful. They returned to La Pointe. MISSIONARY LIFE. 219 EAGLE RITER MISSION. Rev. E. H. Day was tlie missionary at this station. He taught school all the year, and preached two or three times on the Sabbath. There was here a class of thirteen members, and two Sunday schools, num- bering about forty scholars. The missionary was indefatigable in his efforts to promote the cause of Christ, but counter influences were at work here which served to hedge up his way, and impede the work of religion. This was especially true of the prevailing intemperance. At a public meeting, which was nu- merously attended, an individual offered the following resolution, that "temperance, on Lake Superior, is all a humbug." By taking the business of presi- dent into his own hands, and putting the question to the crowd, it was carried with a hurra! Several, who before had felt themselves pledged to abstain from the accursed thing, were found returning -to their cups. Whisky does most of the mischief at the mines. Brother Barnum came across from Kewawenon, and spent Saturday and Sabbath with us. The meet- ings of both Saturday evening and Sabbath were seasons of refreshing from God's presence. Sunday evening brother B. preached on the subject of mis- sions, and we took up a collection to aid the cause. I was compelled to remain in the vicinity of the Cliff Mine a week before I could obtain a passage to the Saut. On the 18th of July I went aboard 220 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF the Naj^oleon, and arrived at home on tlie 20th, after an absence of six weeks. I had increasing cause of gratitude to an ever-watchful Providence for his kind care over myself and family during this period. MISSIONARY LIFE. 221 CHAPTER XIY. SAUT DE STE. MARIE MISSION. Little Rapids was still the rallying point for this mission, so far as the Indians were concerned. Here were the farm, the mission-house, chapel, and other buildings and conveniences. Missionary operations could have been prosecuted here with increasing ad- vantage, but for the fact that our location was on a Government Reserve, and the Indians were anxious to locate somewhere, in which there was a prospect of making a permanent home that they could call their own. They could not be persuaded that the Government would allow them to do this at Little Rapids. Their desire was to buy land and hold it in fee simple^ without molestation. Afthis station we had a small class, regular preach- ing, and other religious exercises, a Sabbath school and a day school, numbering twenty-four scholars, taught by Rev. P. 0. Johnson, assisted by brother Marksman. Seven children were living in the mis- sion family, and were rapidly improving in every respect. Such was the state of things during the winter. In the early part of the following summer all the Indian families left Little Rapids and went to White 222 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Fish Point, Lake Superior, to fish, and remained dur- inor the summer. Some would have returned sooner but for fear of the cholera, -vN'hich had broken out at the Saut. "With my advice brother Marksman fol- lowed the Indians, took lodging in a wigwam, and built a shelter, under which he taught school during the week, and preached on the Sabbath. His school- list showed fifty-two scholars, thirty-five of whom were boys. Owing to their fishing, the attendance was not always regular. The average was sixteen and a fraction. The work of religion seemed to be gradually ad- vancing despite the many obstacles which the scat- tered state of the Indians cast in the way. In the spring considerable repairs were made about the mis- sion farm, and the crop yielded' well except the grass, which was much injured by drought. Our principal drawback here was the removal of several families to Ka-om-i-kong, which made it evident that we must follow them -to that locality or give up our efforts to evangelize them. The Indians desired us to establish a school at the place just named. But here was the commencement of new labors and increasing respon- sibilities. When the business of the district did not call the superintendent to other parts of the work, he kept up regular religious services among the white citizens cf the village of Ste. Marie. In the interval of the previous conference Rev. J. D. Bingham, son of the resident Baptist missionary, MISSIONARY LIFE. 223 came to the Saiit with the intention of ministering to the white popalation of that place, providing there should be a suitable opening. He resided in his fathers family during the winter, and preached every Sabbath afternoon in the same house in which our meetings were held. We had the privilege usually of attending each other's services. Those public meet- ings were always agreeable and harmonious, and, we trust, beneficial to the community. Mr. B.'s wife is a daughter of Elder Knapp, the revivalist, and a well- educated and refined Christian lady. In the early part of the following summer he took leave of the Saut, and went below to find a field of greater promise. At the commencement of the year our congrega- tions were small. But we were encouraged, as the year advanced, to have them gradually and constantly enlarge, and they were generally characterized by seriousness and thoughtful attention to the word preached, and occasionally we were favored with seasons of melting mercy to the little few who bore the Christian name. The winter was a very severe one. About the mid- dle of February the thermometer fell as low as 35° and 40° below zero, and the snow was five feet deep on a level. But the river opened about the first of May, so that on the 9th we had two arrivals, the steamers Tecumseh and Franklin. All was now sud- denly changed to a whirl of business. A company of troops was sent up to occupy the fort, and we were 224 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF obliged to give up our quarters and take up our abode in a los!;-cabin in the outskirts of the vil- lage, the best we could find, and we were glad to obtain that. During my absence to visit the upper missions, Rev. P. 0. Johnson ministered to the people of the village. August 3d was the day appointed by the President of the United States, to be observed as a day of fast- ing and prayer to almighty God, to arrest the ravages of that desolating scourge, the cholera. To this the attention of the people was called. "\Ye met at six o'clock, A. M., and held a prayer meeting. At half- past ten o'clock I endeavored to preach to the people. Rev. Mr. Bingham, the Baptist missionary, preached at two o'clock, P. M. The day was rainy and the meetings were thinly attended. We felt as though the people did not realize, as they should have done, the loud call for humiliation before God. Is it not a little singular that the very next day the fell destroyer appeared in our midst, in the sudden death of Mr. Stevens, the proprietor of the Ste. Marie's Hotel? On Sabbath I was called to attend his funeral. The next day we had four corpses in town, three Indians and a Frenchman. Wednesday there was one death. Thursday two were taken in the morning and died before night. One was Captain Daniel Hicks, of Adrian ; the other was a Frenchman, who had lived an abandoned life, and died in most excruciating agony. This was MISSIONARY LIFE. 225 pronounced the most melancholy day that had ever been i^itnessed at the Saut. Three men lay sick in the fort, two of whom were in the hospital. During the prevalence of the scourge our time was much taken up in visiting the sick and dying, attending funerals, etc. xVlarming as were those instances of mortality, the epidemic was mercifully restrained in its ravages. Many felt symptoms of the disease who were enabled to counteract them. Through God's goodness all our missionaries, and the Indians connected with us, were preserved. The conference year was now^ closing. August 24th, accompanied by my family, we took steamer for Detroit, where we spent the next Sabbath. Thence we hastened to Adrian, the seat of the conference, the home of several relatives and numerous old and tried friends. Here I spent the Sabbath previous to the conference, and preached in the morning to a large and attentive congregation, and saw many familiar faces, but some had gone to the spirit-land. Brother Hicky gave us, in the afternoon, one of his worm Holy Ghost sermons. The late lamented Hin- man thrilled the evening assembly with an eloquent and elaborate discourse on ^'the connection of knowl- edge and virtue." The conference began and passed along very harmoniously; but the Sabbath it cm- braced was a season of interest never to be forgotten. We met at the Methodist Church at eight o'clock, A. M. The Lord's supper was administered, immedi- 226 LIGHTS AKD SHADES OF atelj after tlie ordination of tlie deacons, by Bishop Ilamline. Then followed the relation of Christian experience. "What a heaven below was here realized ! In immediate connection with this, the Bishop, in his own peculiarly-impressive way, baptized our infant, Henry Eugene. The religious services which fol- lowed were all signalized by the presence of the great Head of the Church. To us it was a most». memorable conference, but thus much must suffice. By the 23d of September we found ourselves at our post again at Saut Ste. Marie, and enjoying a blessed Sabbath with the missionaries and others, bound for Lake Superior. There were with us Bev. E. H. Day, of Eagle river, Bev. B. C. Crane, on his way to Kewawenon, Bev. P. 0. Johnson and Bev. P. Marksman, of the Saut; also, brother Pulsifer and wife, going as teachers to La Pointe, under the direc- tion of the American Board. Brother P. was de- tained with us eight weeks before he could take pas- sage to La Pointe. At our communion season held at Little Bapids, at this time, it was most pleasing to see Mr. Babcock, of Detroit, the Lidian Agent, and his clerk, Mr. Smith, kneeling at the same bench with some of our Indian brethren, and partaking with them of the holy com- munion. How completely does the love of Christ annihilate every principle and feeling of caste, and enable all of God's children to meet as brethren! Our religious meetings, both at the village and at Little Bapids, were seasons of spiritual good. MISSIONARY LIFE. 227 CHAPTER XY. TRAVELS AND EFFORTS AMONG THE INDIANS DURING THE FALL AND WINTE R— EFF R T S AMONG THE WHITE POPULATION. Our missionary brethren, after some detention at the Saut, were at their posts doing battle, valiantly, for the cause of Christ. With the sanction and en- couragement of our Missionary Board, it was thought best to build a mission-house at Naomikong. This place had been noted as a great fishery, and hence the desire of the Indians to concentrate here. Soon after our return from conference I employed two carpenters to put up the body of a plain hewed-log- house, one story and a half high. Brother Marks- man and myself, accompanied, as far as the saw-mill, by another person, went to Naomikong in a large batteau. The first day we encountered adverse winds, and just as we neared Point Iroquois, one of those whirlwinds, common in that region, swept by us, making a terrible roaring, and might have capsized us, but brother M.'s instinctive perception of such dangers enablecl him to take the warning before it reached us. By a desperate eifort we got out of its track in time. It passed us with great force, and was over in a moment's time. We had been toiling 228 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF long — indeed, it was three o'clock at night before Tve had landed on the little island near the point, and ■were ready to rest our -vveary limbs after our pro- tracted toils. ** The next day we reached Kaomikong, about four o'clock, P. M. Our carpenters arrived the same day. The next morning, 26th of October, we selected a site for the mission in a beautiful pine grove, on the shore of a little cove, or bay. Aided by the chiefs we soon cleared a spot for the building, and the car- penters had commenced to get out the timber. After night, a fine moonlight night, we manned a large batteau with six Indians, went to the saw-mill and got a load of lumber, and returned just before mid- nio-ht. Rest, even in a tent, was sweet after such exertion. Saturday we went and got another boat- load of lumber. This work ended, we were glad to lay aside our secular employment and prepare for the Sabbath. On the Lord's day we had several religious services. One thing gave us great pleasure — the Sabbath was quietly observed by all the Indians. Although it was in the hight of the fishing season, not one was seen to go to his nets. Monday and Tuesday we worked on the mission premises. Wednesday we left for home. After reaching Point Iroquois we had head wind, and toiled hard till one o'clock at night before we camped. Thursday morning, by eight o'clock, we had arrived safely, thankful to our heavenly Father for his preserving mercy. MISSIOXARY LIFE. 229 SECOND TRIP. November 13th we left a2i;am for Naomikons:. Had, as usual, great perplexity in getting men, and every thing in trim for the journey. We had calm most of the way. Thursday and Friday, aided by J. M., nailed the shingles on our mission-house. Two hard days' work, but, by beginning at daylight and working till dark, it was accomplished. "We should have returned the next day, but were held by adverse wind. Sabbath we had reliojious services, amono; which was the administration of the Lord's supper. We were blessed in waiting upon God, but nothing unusual characterized the meetings. Monday, by eight o'clock at night, we had reached home. THIRD TRIP. January 3, 1850, Rev. P. 0. Johnson and myself went to visit this station. We rode the first six miles, and stopped over night, and held meeting with several families residing there. Next day, after a snow-shoe walk of twenty-two miles, we arrived at the saw-mill. At night we held meeting with the Waishkee Indians residing here. Saturday we followed a rough trail leading through the woods, most of the way, to reach the mission — distance some eight miles. On our arrival found brother and sister Marksman hard at work making preparations for the Sabbath. Our new mission-house looked very neat and comfortable. We were glad to find such a home in the wilderness. 230 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF and to share, for a time, in the results of much per- plexity and hard toil. We spent the day in visiting among the Indians. Brother Johnson preached at night. To those present it was a time of spiritual good. Sabbath morning we had a memorable love -feast. The Indians are apt to speak too long in the class meeting or the love-feast. But not so here. Twenty- two spoke in less than an hour. Besides, a full pro- portion of the time was occupied in singing. Im- mediately after love-feast we administered the Lord's supper. Twenty-eight Communed. Both rooms of the mission-house were filled, and the stairs crowded with children. At an invitation thirteen came forward to unite with the Church. One had been a Roman Catholic — three were children. It was a time of God's power in the congregation ; so much so that we felt constrained to dispense with the usual sermon at that hour, and turn it into a prayer meeting. And such was the engagedness of the members and seek- ers that the meeting lasted till one o'clock, P. M. Like Peter, on the mount of vision, we felt to say, ''it is good to be here.'' Just now old mother Waishkee arrived, having walked all the way from the saw-mill. Finding that she was too late she turned about for home, to get there, if possible, to attend the meeting at night, at her son's. After getting some refreshment we started for the saw-mill, accompanied by brother Marksman. Just before our arrival we passed the old lady, who MISSIONARY LIFE. 231 •was trudging along, evidently very weary. Kow we met her youngest son, a youth of some eighteen years, going to meet his mother, bearing in his hand some sliali-gah-mit-ta. "AVell," say you, "vrhat was that?" It was nothing less than some tea, which ho brought in the nee-hish-ah-Mch^ or teapot. An act this of great kindness to his aged and infirm mother. What a striking evidence of filial afi'ection! But such a mother ousfht to have lovincr and dutiful children.''^ We met at seven o' clock, P. M., at the chiefs. There, were about twenty present, mostly Indians. After preaching I administered the Lord's supper to six persons, besides the preachers. The power of God was strikingly manifest. Old sister W. was wonderfully blessed. It was some time before she could sufficiently restrain her -sobs and cries to receive * Croesus, the Lydian king, once inquired of Solon "which of man- kind, in all his travels, he had found the most truly happy. 'One Tel- lus,' rei^lied Solon, *a citizen of Athens, a very honest and good man, who lived all his days without indigence, had always seen his country in a flourishing condition,' etc. As he flattered himself of being ranked in the second degree of happiness, he asked him, 'who of all those he had seen was next in felicity to Tellus ?' Solon answered, * Cleobis and Biton, of Argos, two brothers, who had left behind them a perfect pattern of fraternal aflfcction, and of respect due from children to their parents. Upon a solemn festival, when their mother, a priestess of Juno, "was to go to the temple, the oxen that were to draw her not being ready, the two sons put themselves to the yoke, and drew their mother's chariot thither, which was above five miles distant. All the mothers of the place, filled with admiration, congratula.ted the priestess on the piety of her sons,'" etc. (Rollin's History, vol. i, pp. 301, 302.) See the Recount above where this old lady was drawn on a hand-train, about six miles, to meeting by her daughters-in-law. 232 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF the cup of blessing. She doubtless felt well paid for having walked sixteen miles to worship the Great Spirit. Monday, after a walk of about thirty miles, as our trail led us, we reached home. Some places passed over ice so rough as to render it extremely severe and difficult crossing. Brother J. bruised his toes badly. But we were safely home, and had much cause for thankfulness. FOURTH TRIP. March 29th brother Johnson and myself went again to visit the station at N. What till then was a nov- elty, ^Ye took a sled and two horses. Indeed, it is but rarely that the ice on Lake Superior will admit of this. Some places it was heavy going for the team, on account of a late fall of snow; but before nine o'clock at night we were at Naomikong. We found sister Marksman in poor health. Saturday was spent in visiting the Indians. They were considerably scattered; had just commenced sugar-making — a late beginning — evidence of the backwardness of the season. We met at night for divine worship. On Sabbath we had love-feast, preaching, and the sacrament of the Lord's supper. The meetings were not so deeply interesting as those before mentioned. We had reason to fear that the enemy had been at work sowing tares among the people. We went over to the saw-mill, and held meetinir at ni^ht. Returned to the Saut the next day. MISSIONARY LIFE. 233 RELIGIOUS SERVICES AT THE VILLAGE. The moral soil here appeared as cold and sterile as the physical. Still we endeavored in the discharge of duty to hope against hope. In pleasant weather, when there was no arrival of mails or steamboats, our meetings were well attended, and were often seasons of interest and profit. But it frequently seemed that the seed sown fell by the wayside, and was devoured by the fowls of the air. Balls, pleas- ure parties, business, any and every thing else, save the concerns of the soul, attracted the attention and occupied the time of the great mass of the com- munity. As the season advanced our congregations enlarged. During my long absence in the summer the meetings were kept up by brother Johnson. Min- isters from abroad often preached to our people dur- ing the traveling season. Sabbath, July 21st, I preached to a very attentive congregation on occasion of the death of Zachary Taylor, late President of the United States, which had occurred on the 9th inst., from the words, " The fashion of this ivorlcl imsseth aiuayJ' In connection with other duties, I had charge when at home of an interesting Bible class. In our religious meetings we were favored with mercy drops and gently-distilling grace, if not copious showers. With all our discouragements, we had reason to be- lieve that we were employed in our Master's businesSj and that our labor was ^'not in vain in the Lord." 234 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF CHAPTER XYI. TEIP TO SAXDY LAKE — SCEXES AND IXCIDEXTS Thursday, May 16tli, I took passage on board the propeller Independence to visit the Lake Superior missions. I had as my traveling associate Mr. Saw- yer, who was on his way to Bad river as a school- teacher, under the direction of the American Board. Our boat had been altered from a passenger into a freight craft, and was not very comfortable or agree- able for passengers. The mate's room was assigned to us, though in the worst part of the boat to feel the motion. "We had, as was too common, annoy- ances aboard, arising chiefly from drinking and pro- fanity. After we passed Pointe au Pin a stiff head wind gave us a very rough and chopped-up sea, and made me quite seasick. We ran into W^aishkees Bay, and found shelter. Saturday, 18th, we passed White Fish Point. At four o'clock, P. M., Michipi- coton Island was in sight to the north-west, and the Pictured Rocks to the south-west. Sabhaih, IdtJi. It commenced blowing from the north-west about four o'clock, A. M. At eight o'clock it blew very hard, and got up a very rough sea. I became very sick. Our ship was badly trimmed — too much lading forward. She ran her k MISSIONARY LIFE. 235 bows too much under the seas. The captain had de- signed to make for Grand Island or Presque Isle; but the stern was so much out of water that the boat would not mind her helm. At nine o'clock the storm was increasing, and we were taking in consid- erable water. Our boat rolled like a log. Stoves, tables, barrels, boxes, trunks, etc., were thrown about in utter confusion. I left my berth, wrapped up in a large quilt, and lay on the floor. In this manner I avoided farther seasickness. At one o'clock, P. M., the boat labored hard and made bad weather. I heard the captain say, in a low tone, "She is run- ning under as fast as she can ;" four feet of water in the hold forward. Five horses and four oxen in the bows had a serious time. The horses got loose, and were made fast again wfth much trouble and risk. The mate was washed under them two or three times. Only one of the oxen survived; the three to lee- ward actually drowned; and a more pitiable sight I had seldom seen than those three oxen lying dead, side hy side. And there they still remained to weigh us down; they could not be removed. More than five tuns of hay were on the upper deck, considerable of which was now thrown overboard. But for this the captain thought we must have gone to the bot- tom. The pump was worked briskly, and several were kept bailing near the engine. The water had nearly reached the fire. By four o'clock, P. M., the wind began to die away; still we had a heavy sea. VV^e were soon measurably relieved, being sheltered 236 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF hj Manito Island and Point Kewena^v. Before sun- down we took supper, or rather breakfast, as it wag our first meal for the day; at the same time doubled Point Kewenaw. Evening was delightfully clear, but cold. The storm had passed, and all was stillness and calm. The land of the Point loomed up to our left in grandeur and majesty. The sun bathed his golden plumes in the pure blue element, and dis- appeared. The light-house from Manito Island shed a soft, clear light, which we saw for miles, till it seemed to sink in the Lake. Meanwhile light from the Copper Harbor light-house was now clearly seen, and now it disappeared, alternately, till we came abreast. By the erection of those light-houses a great ben- efit has been conferred on mariners and the traveling public generally. We had once before entered this harbor in the night — a dark night too — when our only beacon was a globe lamp, sent out in a yawl, and placed upon a lone rock in the channel. Such had been the march of improvement in the brief space of a few years, prior to which the cheerful light of the camp fire had served as a beacon to the Indian in his barb canoe, to give him notice of im- pending danger. By ten o'clock at night we were all safe within harbor. The holy Sabbath had passed without afford- ing an opportunity for public worship. But seldom had I felt a greater calm within than during this stormy day. How good is it at such times to be MISSIONARY LIFE. 237 able, as tlie "untutored Indian," only more intel- ligently, " To see God in clouds, And hear him in the wind j" and to feel, at all times, that "underneath are the everlasting arms." Monday visited Fort Wilkins. Every thing still looked neat and tasteful, but it was nearly deserted. So was also Copper Harbor. Snow was still visible along the shore, "\^^e ran into Agate Harbor, and were detained nearly a whole day to take on wood. In the night ran up opposite Eagle river, and at one o'clock, A. M., were aground on the reef. We did not get loose till nearly ten. Stopped some nine hours at the Ontonagon. On the 23d we reached La Pointe in time to dine at the mission of the Amer- ican Board. During the afternoon we made arrangements for our coasting voyage. The N. F. Company furnished me vdth two men and a boat. Mr. Carlton, the black- smith, from Fond du Lac, was to accompany us as far as his home. May 24th left La Pointe at six o'clock, A. M., a delightful day, and made a pretty good run. We reached Cranberry river, some forty-six miles from La Pointe, and camped at eight o'clock, P. M. Saturday, 25th, we ai;pse between three and foui o'clock and commenced our journey, hoping to reach Fond du Lac before Sabbath; a long pull, some sixty miles, before us. It rained part of the forenoon. 238 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Had VN'iiid from nearly all quarters through the day, and a heavy rollmg sea. But by a vigorous effort we had landed at Fond du Lac by half-past twelve o'clock at night, and were under the mission roof. We were much favored in making so quick a trip. Brother Holt and his family were out nine days on the same route the fall previous. Sabbath preached twice to the Indians that came out, few in number, and fewer that seemed to interest themselves in the message of the Gospel. Monday transacted the business connected with the mission, and met the Indians again in council. They appeared much more mellow in their feelings, less haughty and dictatorial than the previous year. Still they had much fault to find about matters so trifling as not to be worth naming. Tuesday, 28th, was waked very early by the sing- ing of a whippowil. Arose before four o'clock, and left Fond du Lac by half-past six. At seven com- menced crossing Grand Portage. My men went ahead on Monday, and carried the things over the Portage. John Street, interpreter at Fond du Lac, accompanied us. By half-past ten we were over the Grand Port- age. At twelve we had crossed Knife Portage. Here we dined, gummed our canoe, and left at half-past two, P. M. At seven, P. M., we had ascended the Grand Bapids, and were camped on a beautiful green, near the delightful pine grove which overlooked the Bapids. At the end of Knife Portage we overtook Mrs. Hughs, daughter of Mr. Oaks, of La Pointe, on her MISSIONARY LIFE. 239 way to the Mississippi. She had lost her husband about a year before, and was moving -with her two little fatherless children. She had a fine large canoe, and two excellent voijagcurs. We had traveled in company for the afternoon, and now our tents stood close together, and a bright blazing fire between, an- swering for us all. There noted in my journal: "I feel great peace within in waiting on God, and great confidence in his blessing on the work of my hands. Have the assurance that God is with me, and what more can I desire? Only a greater manifestation of his presence. for grace to love and serve him more !" "Wednesday, 29th, we were up at four o'clock, breakfasted, and w^ere ready to leave before six. Made a fine run for the day. The two canoes kept in company, and in the evening we camped together, a short distance up the East Savan river. Our men had worked hard, and we pitched our tents in good season to be rested for the morrow. It had been a cold, windy day, and was followed by a clear, frosty nifrht. But all was cheerfulness about our bri2;ht camp fire. Just at nightfall a little bird was singing most sweetly near us. The frogs were making the air vocal with their homely song. The stars began to light up the heavens — and how rich those countless globes of light in the transparency of a nortliorn sky I All we saw a'nd heard conspired to declare *'the glory of God," and to show forth "his handy- work." 20 2'i:0 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Thursday, SOtli, we were ready to leave our resting- place by five o'clock, A. M. A delightful day. We proceeded steadily, but slowly, up the Savan, the most serpentine river I ever saw. Now we would go to the right, then to the left; now the direction we had come, and then the contrary, going a long distance to gain a little. But by noon we had reached the head of the Savan river, and were crossing the Savan Portage. By three o'clock, P. M., we were at Sandy Lake, found a canoe, and by making a sail out of a quilt, we sailed over, and at four o'clock we were happy to meet our missionaries once more, and find all well. They were taken by surprise at our getting along so early. During the evening a goodly number of the Indians came out to see me. Among these was an old woman, who had renounced heathenism the winter before and embraced Christianity. She said that she was very glad that JVo-sJie-sJia, that is, her grandson, as she called me, had come to -see her. She went by the name of JVo-ko, that is, grandmother. It is an ab- breviation of No-ko-mis. Friday we observed as a day of fasting and prayer. In the morning visited a poor sick Indian, who was near death's door. He could say but little. The Indian medicine man had performed over him for some time, but brother Spates had told him plainly of the wickedness of these heathen rites, and ho had turned him off. Made a few visits in the afternoon. At four o'clock, P. M., we called the people together / MISSIONARY LIFE. 211 for worship. Quite a congregation assembled, to whom I prcaclied. ■WAR-DANCE. Previous to our meeting a large company had col- lected in another place, and were engaged in a war- dance. They were almost naked, and were painted most grotesquely. Their heads were dressed with painted feathers and trinkets. One danced in a buf- falo skin with horns on his head. Four or five were drumming while the others danced. Those gymnastics were vulgar and most revoltingly unseemly. They danced around a grave in the open air. Occasionally they would yell like savages; then they would sit down and smoke, and at intervals one would make a speech. Before our meeting had progressed far several of those wild painted creatures came in to hear the word of the Lord. This war-dance was gotten up by some of the Indians who seemed determined to go to war with the Sioux, who a short time previous had murdered some fourteen of the Chippeways at Stillwater, and one near Sauk Rapids. This massacre was com- mitted under the influence of intoxication. Since this horrible aifair three or four of the Chippeways had killed a Sioux in the vicinity of Fort Snelling. Saturday I preached again in the forenoon. The congregation was not large. I notified them that I would meet with them in the afternoon to hear from them about matters and things which concerned them, •242 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Before the meeting brothers S. and J. were down among the lodges. A company of Indians, wrapped in their dirty blankets and with their long pipes, passed by. They were about to smoke over some important subject upon which a decision must be made. We soon found out what was to pay, as a result of the subject discussed. Now several Indians were driving the Government oxen ; many others were standing and looking on. There was one running with a gun. He fired and the ox dropped. They gathered around like a drove of hungry wolves; took large stones and beat the ox in the head till they had killed him. In a very short time he was cut into pieces and in process of cooking. The ox-killing business kept the Indians back from the meeting till late. But at length we had a pretty good turn-out, and an interview of considerable interest. The old chief was not present, although he had promised the day before to attend. He was a weak, fickle-minded creature, and of but little account, un- less it was to discuss the merit of something to be appropriated to the stomach from the race of bipeds or quadrupeds. The position taken by I-aJi-le-tiva-ive-diing, the speaker, and who, in point of talent, stood at the head of the band, produced a good efi'ect, and is worthy of record. He first addressed himself to the Indians, substantially as follows: ^'I want to be civ- ilized. Who knows how soon we are going to be removed away from this place? Perhaps I will be MISSIOXARV LIFE. 243 in one place, and my ^yife in another, and my cliil- dren in another. Some of us go to listen to the missionaries, and when Ave go home we say, who are these men who come to talk to us? I do not care whether you laugh at me or not, I am determined to pursue a dijQferent course." 3Iartin Luther made a short speech, addressed to me, in which he expressed his thanks that I had been preserved to meet with them once more. He said that "he was poor, but he was not going to do as the Indians at Fond du Lac — want the missionary to pay him for coming to meeting." He said, "Our missionary has too much to do to be left alone; he ought to have more help. I hope you will send somebody to assist him." Martin was one of our Christian Indians, and a worthy man. On one occa- sion I felt myself rebuked by his piety. He had assisted in carrying our things across the portage. We had dined together, and were about to separate. Martin proposed that we should pray first, which would not have been done had he not been thus mindful. Truly religion is the same wherever found. Those that love God love the atmosphere of prayer. After he sat down I-ah-he-tiva-ive-dung arose, and made a speech that displayed considerable eloquence. But to realize its power the man must be seen and heard. He had nothing on but his moccasins, and an old dirty blanket drawn around his body, with his arms and shoulders bare. He advanced with a firm st-^p, and gave me his hand. He commenced: 244 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF "My friend, I want to say a few words. I am going to speak very plainly. What I say does not come out of the mouth of a chief. I look behind my back, and see what I have done. I am going to turn over a new leaf. I am very poor. I have no shirt but the black shirt. I shall not ask those who have no shirts to go with me.^ I am determined to go with them that have shirts, [the missionaries and other Christians.] I shall look to that stove, [point- ing to the stove, as one of the fruits of civilization.] If the Great Spirit is willing, he will receive me; if not, he will not. I agree with my brother that has just spoken, that our missionary has not had sufficient help. I hope that the time will come,when some of my children will be able to write such a letter as you read from my cousin, [Peter Ringing Sky, who was then attending school at the Albion Seminary, Michigan.] This is all I have to say. You may depend on my word." After the meeting I-ah-he-tiva-ive-dung came into the mission-house. I gave him a shirt. I told him I gave him that to cover his body, and I hoped that he would pray to the Lord Jesus that he would grant him the robe of righteousness to cover his soul. I conversed with him also with reference to his being baptized and married in a Christian manner. jSahhatJi, June 2. Early in the morning had an * The idea here intended is, probably, that he should not select Euch for his associates. MISSIONARY LIFE. 245 interview with I. and liis wife. She was willinn; to be married, but wanted to wait and listen awhile to the missionary before she was fully prepared to renounce heathenism. She thought that she should soon follow her husband; was willing that he and the children should be baptized. She had been a great heathen — a medicine woman, and one who ini- tiated others into those heathen rites. The conces- sions she here made, and the steps she took, were quite an advance for her. About 10 o'clock we got the Indians out for love-feast — it was an unusually interesting time. God's .power was displayed in our midst. The little company of witnesses for the Savior spoke very feelingly. It was after noon before we met for public worship. At the commencement I married I-ah-he-hua-iue-dung, and baptized him and his children. Named him Ben- jamin F. Tefft. His children, the three present, which were baptized, we named Julia, Abby, and Caroline, the last two after my wife and daughter. Then read the ten commandments. In the evening we met for the sacrament of the Lord's supper. No formal ser- mon was preached in connection with any of these services, but the explanations and remarks inter- spersed through the whole amounted to about the same thing. This last season was a very precious one to all who knew any thing about experimental religion. The services were closed and the benedic- tion pronounced, but no one made any motion to leave the hruse. They remained, as if waiting for '246 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF sometliing more. We sung a hymn or two, during which time B., one who had been reclaimed from a backslidden state, seemed overpowered with the pres- ence of God, cried aloud, and got down on his knees to weep and pray. We then had a season of prayer together, and it was a time of melting mercy. When the Indians commenced to leave the house the Chris- tian ones came and gave the missionaries their hand. The expression was repeated to each other, Ong-wam- e-ze, that is, he courageous. I.'s wife brought the little children I had baptized to shake hands with me, the eldest first, and so on. She took the infant's hand and put it into my hand, as a token that it now belonged to us. She did not offer her own hand because she had not yet been baptized, and she seemed to think she was either unworthy, or had no right to do so. Martin Luther went and took her by the hand, and exhorted her not to let her husband and children leave her behind. Then he took I-ah-be-twa-we-dung by the hand, and gave him a most affectionate exhorta- tion to steadfastness. During all the exercises of the day a number of wild Indians crowded into the house, and looked on with astonishment. It began to appear to us as if the Lord had commenced a very gracious work, and was about to open a great door of usefulness in that wilderness after so long sowing the seed. Just before our last meeting a company of young men, stripped, painted, and decorated with feathers, MISSIONARY LIFE. 247 bells, etc., about their licads and arms, were playing ball."^ Such are the strange contrasts constantly meeting the missionary. Hotv ignorant, how de- praved and wretched are those poor creatures without the Gospel! Their only hope, their only salvation, is in this. As they are, they are literally " without Christ and without hope in the world." Before taking leave of Sandy Lake it may be well to name the deep afflictions through which the Indians had passed the previous winter. It was anticipated the year before that the very high waters would de- stroy the rice crop, and, if so, many of the Indians must starve. This had now become matter of affect- ing history. In fact, famine, with its terrible dis- closures, was upon them. Brother and sister Spates both wrote us touching accounts of this calamity. In view of this fate as approaching, the missionary had ordered a larger supply of provisions than usual. He had been blessed the previous season with a fine potato crop. By this means multitudes were fed, and, doubtless, kept from starving. Brother S. wrote me that "from ten to fifty a day came to them to get something to keep soul and body together." He said that ''the people came to them for food as the Egyptians did to Joseph." Many Indians from the far north came to Sandy Lake — some unable to reach there without help. The sights which daily met the eyes of the missionaries- were deeply affecting. What *The game called hafjgattatcay ; that whicli was so • artfully played at Mackinaw when the British were massacred. 21 248 LIGHTS AXD SHADES OF a, record would it make if the sufferings of this poor neglected race were only told ! As an evidence of their distress, some of those farther in the interior were driven to cannibalism, in its most shocking forms, to satisfy the cravings of nature. Rev. J. P. Bardwell, Agent of the A. M. A., writ- ing from Oberlin, Ohio, November 6, 1852, to the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, Washington, D. C, mentions a most startling fact as having occurred west of Cass Lake, the winter to which we refer. See Annual EejDort of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, 1852, p. 51. He says: "An Indian, with his wife, two daughters, and a son-in-law, killed and ate fifteen persons, and most of them were their own children and grandchildren. Many of the principal men among them begin to realize that they must change their habits or perish, and are disposed to do what they can to improve their condition." MISSIONARY LIFE. 249 CHAPTER XYII. RETURN VOYAGE, AND THE MISSIONS EN ROUTE. June 3d, Monday, parted witli the missionaries and Indians at Sandy Lake, and were retracing our steps across tlie portage. It had rained Sabbath evening, and we found the bushes along the trail very wet. But after a wet and tiresome walk, we were over the portage, where we had concealed our canoe among the bushes, and by one o'clock, P. M., were ready to get aboard. Vre glided, or rather paddled, down the river and entered the St. Louis long before night, and camped several miles below. Tuesday we were up by half-past three o'clock, and started. By adding our strength to the force of the swift current, we made great speed. ^Ye breakfasted near La Rivier Acluta, so named from a Frenchman of this name, who, it is said, once broke his canoe here. This is a considerable stream, and for some distance before it enters the St. Louis dashes and foams madly among the rocks, over extended rapids. Soon after breakfast it became very foggy, com- menced to rain hard and continued till in the after- noon. The men were drenched, and our things, ex- cept such as I could shelter with my India rubber cloak. But the rain did not stop us. "We reached k 250 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF the Grand Portage, ^vliere we dined, and then ad- dressed ourselves to the arduous task of ^j6Zc7cm?(7 the rest of the way. Instead of having a canoe or boat, at the end of the portage, as we usually did, we were forced to clamber over a succession of high hills, some of them so steep and muddy withal, that, but for the aid of shrubs and bushes, we could hardly have ascended or descended them. But, rain, and mud, and hills in the opposition, by four o'clock, P. M., we were at Fond du Lac. At the previous annual conference the Mission Committee determined that, unless "the signs of the times" were decidedly more encouraging at Fond du Lac, we must pull up stakes there, with a view to extending the work to Mille Lac. The Indians, from that point, were calling loudly on us for help. A good report was brought from that band, showing their anxious desire to be Christianized. This place is distant about one hundred miles from Sandy Lake, and must be reached thence by a chain of lakes. Li vievf of this opening, and the favorable indications at Sandy Lake, we thought best to have brother Holt remove to Sandy Lake, to be associated with brother Spates, and, in connection with the work there, if possible, to visit and explore the ground at Mille Lac. The necessary arrangements were now made, and brother Holt and family were to lea'v e soon. Wednesday, 5th, afternoon, parted with our friends at F. Although the river, to the Entry, is vei-y vapid, most of the way, a stiff wind blowing from the MISSIONARY LIFE. 251 east caused a heavy sea to set back into the river, and we had to pull hard to get down stream. We found a fine place to camp near the Entry, sheltered by trees and elevated ground — from the wind — a large log to build our fire against, and so situated as not to smoke us in the tent. Were quite comfort- able on that lone and desolate shore. The follovring night a drenching rain poured upon us, but we kept most of our things dry by means of our tent. Thursday, 6th, we were wind-bound, and no tell- ing for how long a time. Hard wind blovnng from the eastward, having the rake of the whole Lake. It may be imagined how the mighty waves spent their fury against our shore. REFLECTIOXS PEXXED OX THIS WIXD-BOUXD COAST. " The rain has ceased and the weather is clearing up. The air is cool, but we are not troubled with flies and musketoes, and with a good fire we can be very comfortable. I have read several chapters in my Bible this morninfr, and have read throusih Heddino; on the Discipline. Find enough to do when camped, to fill up, profitably, all my time in reading, writing, etc.; so that I am enabled, at such seasons, to advance in knowledge, and, I trust, in grace, and a preparation for usefulness in public. I often enjoy sut^h seasons of seclusion from the world, in which I can commune with God and my own soul. *'I was thinking this morning that a person wind- bound on a desolate coast resembles a person bound 252 LIGHTS AKD SHADES OF for heaven, -wliile navigating the dangerous sea of life. IIoAv often does he meet with opposing "winds, -when he can do nothing but ^ stand still and see the salva- tion of God.' In the midst of a vile world, vrhich is no friend to grace, he often j5nds himself standing almost alone and forsaken, with wind and tide against him. But his trust is in God. Like the skillful voy- ager, he holds himself ready to make the best of every hinderance. He keeps every inch of ground he has gained. In the calm, or when wind and waves are not too strong, he plies his oars, and when the breeze is fair spreads his sails, rides over the proudest bil- lows, and bids the world adieu. When we are resting in camp w^e are acquiring strength for more arduous labor. And often when the child of God seems, to himself, to be accomplishing little or nothing for the world, he is, in reality, doing the most important work. The trial of faith is as necessary as any thing else to the Christian. While thus situated I often think of my dear companion and the little ones God has given us. But they give me no uneasy concern. I confidently leave them in the hands of God, believ- ino; that he will do that which is best, both for them and me. Here then is my rock, my strength." By six o'clock, the same evening, we were enabled to proceed on our journey, and by twelve o'clock at night had reached the River Brule. Had sailing most of the way, but clouds were dark and threatening- thundered to the north and sprinkled, but the storm went round us. Here we found three tents. One, MISSIONARY LIFE. 253 tlie Indian Agent, on his way to the Mississippi, to aid the Governor of Minnesota territory in locating the new agency. One tent was Dr. Norwoocf s, of whom mention has before been made. The other tent belonged to Rev. Messrs. Hall and "Wheeler, of the American Board. They were on an exploring tour, to look up a site for a new mission, in view of the anticipated removal of the Lake Superior Indians. Friday morning my veteran voi/ageur, Souvra, called us up about three o'clock. In a few minutes we parted with our friends, and were on our way for La Pointe. A very hot day. Wind followed us most of the day, and bore us along, so that we rowed but little. We arrived at the mission at La Pointe just before dark, having coasted sixty-nine miles. We did not anticipate reaching here before the next day noon. When I got out of the boat I staggered like a drunken man, and was quite dizzy, having been confined to our small craft from the time we break- fasted. I then noted, ^' In being so remarkably blessed I can but own the good hand of my heavenly Father, who has made this to me, thus far, one of the most prosperous coasting trips I have ever experienced." Spent the Sabbath here, and was permitted to preach twice to Rev. Mr. Hall's congregation. Two Indians had just brought Mr. Oaks from the Ontonagon in a bark canoe. Through Mr. Oaks I engaged a passage with them when they should return. They were to leave early the following Monday morning; but, when the time came, they 254 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF bajBled and disappointed me, and it ^yas quite late before I could stir them out of their lodges. At length they came with the canoe to the mission dock. I saw that we were to be burdened with company in no way desirable. An old dirty woman was in the bow of our canoe. Another small canoe was in company, with an Indian, his wife and child. This woman was a daughter of the elderly woman. It was useless to remonstrate. I had paid Mr. 0. for my passage, and he had settled with the Indians. I was a mere passenger — had been detained too long already — it was "neck or naught." So I took my place in the center of the canoe, determined to make the best of it. These Indians were related to my men, and were bound for Iron river. The sun was scorching hot. It was two o'clock when we arrived at Bad river, where we took a cold lunch. Here we found that our company had no sign of any thing in the provision line. Along this fine sand beach our young man towed the canoe. When it came to rowing he seemed so intolerably lazy that he could scarcely move. Meanwhile our hero of the other canoe was trying his luck at fishing for trout. He caught three. "We took supper at the Montreal river. The Lake was calm — scarcely a ripple on the sur- face. ^\e traveled all night, and made pretty good headway. I tried to sleep part of the night, but my position was so uncomfortable that I could only doze a little. Tuesday, 11th, early in the morning, we passed I MISSIONARY LIFE 255 Black river, x^bout daybreak wind sprung up in our favor. AVe breakfasted at Presque Isle, gummed our canoe, and ^vere just ready to start, -^-hen a canoe Avitli Indians came ashore. They had been to On- tonagon, and were returning to Bad river, freighted, as -we soon found out, with whisky. I did not per- ceive this till I saw the company into which I had fallen drinking. They concealed the bottles under their blankets. All I could do, without using vio- lence, was to remonstrate with them. This had the good effect, at least, to keep my two men from drink- ing much; and even the man in the other canoe made out to steer his canoe when not attached to ours. Part of the day we had pretty good sailing, and, as his canoe was small and he had no sail, he must be kept along by being lashed to ours. But they kept the old woman in the bow of our canoe drunk all day. At times she waxed eloquent, and talked to her chil- dren; then she would s'mcr accordin^^ to heathen cus- tom. Every little while she must have something more to drink. I pleaded with them not to give it to her; but her son said, '^ Kit-e-mah-ge-ze^' — ^'■Poor — a poor old woman." I told him that would make her poorer still. To this he replied, ^^ Malt-no f^ that is, never mind. Then his wife, who sat in reach of her, in the bow of the other canoe, and had the bottle in her keeping, would pour out some in a tin-pan — sometimes in a small wooden bowl — and hand it to her. Lest she should not get every drop, she would turn it up the second time. Then she would say, " Me salt ewe, 256 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF me sail ewe, me sah eive^'' — ^'That is enoiigli, that is enough, that is enough." Poor drunken heathen, she did not realize but that every "want was supplied. At one time she sung a kind of song over and over in the following strain. I can not give a literal translation; it was simply an expression of her joyful emotions under the inspiration of the fire-water. " Me-saJi neen-ga-to-yaun, Me-sah neen maJi-mo-yaun." I felt much concerned lest all the Indians in the company should get drunk, and then, if we should even escape danger on the Lake, I would be at their mercy on the land. I had no fear of their injuring me personally; but they might prevent me from going on. As we rounded the Porcupine Mountains, and were makino- for Iron river, our Indian of the other canoe became very merry and remarkably garrulous. He kept up an incessant talking, and singing, and drumming on an empty tin-pan. At one o'clock, P. M., we landed at Iron river. But I was far from feeling easy. I knew there was whisky here. Here was the home of my men and their • friends. They had been out all the previous night, and would gladly have remained here during the nio;ht. But I would not hear to it for a moment. I insisted that we should be oiF immediately. They promised me to go soon. It was two hours before I could get them started. Had we gone immediately, we might have sailed with a good wind to Ontonagon; MISSIONARY LIFE. 057 but the AYind liad died down, and now we must row and tow. But we were now rid of our troublesome company, and, what was better, we had no whisky aboard. "Went a few miles and camped. I have, probably, never suffered in my feelings more in any one day of my life, than during this most trying time. Let me be any where else than out at sea, in a frail bark canoe, with drunken Indians. This danger will be more apparent a little farther on. "We are not done yet with the results of this whisky drinking. "We arrived at Ontonagon early the next morning. Called at Mr. Beezer's, and what was niy surprise to learn that the wife of Mr. C. C. Douglas was a corpse in the house! She was taken sick several miles back in the woods — was brought on a bier to the mouth of the river by hand. But no help could be obtained; the summons was imperative, and she must go. She left her husband and an infant to feel the deep pangs of human sorrow. I found Mr. L. Hanna's family here, and spent part of the time with them. But for them the place would not have seemed like home. Preached at night, on the subject of the cross of Christ, to a pretty good assembly. The people listened attentively. On account of the crowd of visiting friends at Mr. H.'s I was obliged to find lodging at a public house. But such a night ! Several rough fellows were drink- ing, swearing, dancing, and singing, all in perfect tumidt. My bedroom was in close proximity to all this disorder and wickedness. In the house adjoining 258 LIGHTS AXD SHADES OF was the deceased vrife of Mr. D. AVliat evidences here of the most confirmed depravity! And what 'but the intoxicating agent could render men so lost to every sense of shame, not to say principle and feeling of virtue! Thursday, 13th, I was waiting the arrival of a boat to go to Eagle river. Spent most of my leisure m writing. THE lATAL CUP. The same morning a small boat and two Indians arrived fropi La Pointe. They were out on the Lake the same day on which we came in contact with the Indians having whisky. They also fell in with them, and, as might be expected, were induced to di-ink. One of their number, whose name was Green, became so intoxicated that his companions could not keep him still in the boat. He upset the boat and was drowned. They were about half a mile from shore, near Llack river. The two surviving men got on the boat and floated ashore with it bottom upward. As we afterward learned, young Green had affection- ate parents and friends at La Pointe, whose hearts must have been wrung with anguish by this painful intellicrence. Some one at Ontonacron let those In- dians have this liquor, and took their money. A judgment day will tell the whole story. About nine' o'clock at night the Xapoleon came in, and in two hours and a half I left the Ontona- gon for Eagle river. The next day, Friday, arrived MISSIONARY LIFE. 259 before breakfast. "Walked to the Cliff afterward, and found brother Day quite unwell, scarcely able to walk about. Things about the Mine appeared to be in rather a confused state. Several persons had left, and some were about leaving. Spent most of the afternoon at the North American. Accompanied !Mr. Kelsey to witness the removal of the remains of his recently-deceased wife. They were now exhumed and sent below on the Independence. Saturday made a few visits — spent the day at the Cliff, and preached in the evening. Sabbath preached and administered the sacrament in the iiew chapel built by the Company. Had a class meeting in the afternoon, and a missionary meeting at night. The meetings were well attended, and we trust profitable. Though things here looked unpromising, there was the o;erm of somethins; f2:ood to come. Some of our best members had left. On Saturday two men arrived from Kewawenon. This was providential for me. I prevailed on them to wait and accompan}^ me, as they had a boat at the head of Torc"h Jjake. Monday morning we left, and walked sixteen miles to Torch Lake. The sun shone very hot, and the musketoes were very annoy- ing. "We had reached the Lake by half-past one o'clock, P. M., much fatigued. The boat had lain on the dry sand beach, and leaked badly when put into the water. It kept me bailing cansiderable of the time. About sundown we reached the mouth of Portage river; stopped at Mr. Sheldon's long 2G0 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF enough to eat a bowl of bread and milk — a great treat, and tlie most I had eaten for the day. Again we were in the boat making our w^ay for the Meth- odist mission. It was two o'clock at night before w^e arrived. Found all as well as could be expected, but the deeply-devoted and amiable sister Barnum was still wasting away with lingering consumption. Brother Crane had buried his youthful companion soon after his arrival at the mission. Our mission- aries were called to drain the cup of sorrow, but a good work had been going on in the Church, and thus was their cup again filled with gladness. Wednesday, 19th, we met at 11 o'clock, A. M., in our new church,, which had recently been comioleted. The brethren had delayed occupying it till my arrival. We now had the pleasure of dedicating it to the worship of the living God. It was a refreshing time to our souls. Our new house was neat, commodious, for the place, and an honor to our mission. It was worth about §550. At three o'clock, P. M., we met the Indians to consult about their temporal matters. The principal topic was in relation to turning over to them the lands bought by the Missionary Society. This I was authorized to do if it should be thought best. But there were circumstances that served to render it unadvisable to do so at this time. I advised them to let the Missionary Society still retain the title, as the safest course for them for the present — told them that it would make no difference as to then' MISSIONARY LIFE. 261 occupying or using tlicm. To this tliey all readily agreed. John Southwind said: " I am getting old and may die suddenly, and my son is young, and it may be, that, if my land was in my own hands, it might be lost. I am thankful for v>-hat the Missionary Society has done for us in purchasing the land." After several had spoken briefly, David King, the chief, said, in substance : ^'I wish to say a few words. I have very little mind, and know but little. The Indians are just like little children ; they know but little till they are in- structed. I may be told what is for my good, and may see differently. It may be after the Indians are well trained they will understand better. If the In- dians only knew what you have done for them, they would be very thankful. The missionaries came amons: us when we were heathens, and have been teaching us how to live. And now we are just be- ginning to live. But the Indians are very poor. To give you an example — if a little child cries and is hungry, we give it something to eat. Now, the good people, the Missionary Society, have bought us some land, which they allow us to keep and replace the money when wq get able. We have not the money to do this now, but we hope the time will come when Vi'e can replace it all. I am very thankful for what has been done for us." Not a word of fault or complaint was uttered about ihe missionaries, or any thing else, save a little mis- 262 LIGHTS AXD SHADES OF understanding bet^'een them and two persons who had married into the band, and wanted to secure claims among them. At seven o'clock, P. M., wo met again for religious worship. The people were out as if it had -been the Sabbath. I preached to them with much freedom. The whole congregation praised God aloud in singing, and yet there did not seem to be a discordant note. Several were deeply affected during the meeting. Thursday morning we had love-feast and the sacra- ment of the Lord's supper. It was a most melting and precious time, ^\e closed by singing a parting hymn, when the people all passed before the altar, and shook hands with the missionaries, and with each other. Seldom have I witnessed a more affecting scene. Afternoon parted with the brethren and friends at K., never expecting to see them all again in this world. Accompanied by brother R. C. Crane and "VYilliam Bass, crossed over to the mouth of the Port- age river. We were kindly entertained by the family of Mr. Sheldon. The musketoes were' almost insuf- ferable. Friday we reached the head of Torch Lake about noon, and, after a fatiguing walk over the trail, and a well-fought battle with our mortal insect ene- mies, we were at the Cliff Mine, at six o'clock, P. M. Saturday went to the Lake and dined with Mr. Write's family. Afternoon, via Eagle Harbor, walked to the North-West Mine, distant from the Cliff seven- teen miles. Found here my old friend D. D. Brock- MISSIONARY LIFE. 263 ■^ay and family, from Copper Harbor. Mr. V>. ^\as now Agent of the Mine. Here spent the Sabbath, and preached twice to a very respectable congrega- tion. In the evening returned to Eagle Harbor, about five miles, and stopped for the night at Mr. Bodon's. Before we were up, Monday morning, the Napoleon came into the Harbor, on her way to the Saut. I was thankful to get aboard, with my face once more turned tovrard home. On our way down we touched at Carp river — now Marquette — ran into Grand Isl- and Harbor to wood, and on Wednesday, the 26th June, before twelve o'clock, was permitted, through much mercy, to meet my family and find all well. 22 264 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF CHAPTER XVIII. BlllEF STATEMENT OP THE CONDITION OF THE MISSIONS IN THE D IS TEIC T — RE MINIS - CENCES PLEASING AND SAD. The Indian Mission district enjoyed a year of prosperity after deducting all our losses from vari- ous causes beyond tlie control of the missionaries. At the extreme posts of Fond du Lac and Sandy Lake, we Lad never been able to count much on mem- bers. Fond du Lac returned six Indian members, four less than at the previous conference. Sandy Lake numbered, the year before, sixteen, now re- turned but five — nine out of the sixteen were on trial. To any one acquainted with those stations and the adverse influences which had been at work, these fluctuations will not appear surprising. At Kewawenon a good revival had been in prog- ress during the winter. Fifteen, as a result, were added to the society; but by deaths, removals, and the necessary exercise of Discipline, the number re- turned to conference was fifty-six, the same as the year before. It was intended that the brethren at Kewawenon should visit the miners in the vicinity of Ontonagon, and also at Carp river. In the extreme ill health of MISSIONARY LIFE. 265 sister Barnum, tins part of the work, for the winter months, was committed to brother Crane. He trav eled on foot during the winter nearly seven hundred miles; visited the Ontonagon twice, and spent some time at the various locations ; went once to the Cliff Mine and twice to Carp river. At his first visit to this last place, things looked very dark and unpromis- ing. He received three persons into society on trial, as a result of his efforts. The next time a most gra- cious work broke out, resulting in the happy conver- sion of about twenty-five or more, and the formation of a flourishing class. At the time brother C. wrote me a detailed account of his efforts and the success attending them. I give here an extract or two as evincing the character of this work, and also the deep sorrows of the missionary, to wliich allusion has been made before : '' what a work the Lord, has wrought here 1 This wilderness, brother, doth bloom. Our class now num- bers twenty-three, and the most of them are bold to tell what a dear Savior they have found. 0, they are happy in God's pardoning love; and others are seek- ing the Savior ! Very different the atmosphere now to what it was four weeks ago. Difficulties have been settled that could not have been otherwise. "You see, brother, from what I have written, that the Lord 'is with us. And, indeed, if he were not my stay and staff, 0, how could I endure the deep, deep, heart-rending afflictions through which I have been called to pass, in being bereft of my dear wife, who 266 LICxHTS AND SHADES OF was permitted to stay -witli me so short a time ! my brother, my feelings are indescribable ! I could not tell them were I to attempt. But you appreciate them in a measure, and I have your prayers and sympathy. My dear Minerva was with me only three weeks after we reached L' Arise; then the Savior called her. She bade me farewell, and the angels quickly flew with her thrice happy spirit to a happier and more congenial clime. I think I can see in the removal of my wife the workings of my heavenly Father's hand. Perhaps it was the only means of the salvation of many souls at L'Aiise, and, for aught I know, at this place too. My Lord is a God of providence, and I have always endeavored to trust him as such." For the reader to appreciate those labors and suf- ferings, he must follow the missionary through a wintery wilderness, and for five or six successive nights camp down with him in his lone and com- fortless resting-place. In years yet to come those primitive toils to plant the Gospel on that wild and desolate shore will be duly appreciated. The time draweth nigh. At Eagle river but twelve members were returned — two less than the previous year, owing to removals. The mining population was very floating. At the Saut Ste. Marie mission, with all the disad- vantages arising from the removal of the Indians to Naomikong, and other causes, the number returned was fifty-six, an increase of four members. The Minutes MISSIONARY LIFE. 267 show for the district a decrease in the Indian mem- bership of eleven, and an increase in the ^vhite mem- bership of twentj-six. The district contributed, during the year, §148.85 for the missionary cause — an average of more than ninety-one cents per member, counting the Indians. But it must be remembered that they were not called on for any of this. Divided among forty-eight pay- ing members, it averages §3.10 each. Besides the district raised §31.80 for Sunday schools. It num- bered 5 Sunday schools, 141 scholars, 490 volumes in library, 2 Bible classes — took 12 Sunday School Advocates. These facts go to show a healthy state of our societies, and that the missionaries endeav- ored to care for all the interests of religion and Methodism. '''Be not forgetful to entertain strangers, for thereby some have entertained angels unaivares.'' While liv- ing on this great thoroughfare we often realized what it meant to comply with the apostle's precept, whether we were always so favored as to find our guests angels or not. In one instance we had a striking illustra- tion of the text at the head of this. Brother John Peterson, of Xinth and Arch streets, Philadelphia, on his way to visit Lake Superior, had arrived at the Saut, and put up at a publia house. He had invited a special friend, an experienced Methodist minister of the same city, Rev. A. Atwood, to accom- pany him at his expense. Mr. Atwood had left home in poor health, and crossing the lakes had aggravated 268 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF liis complaint, wliicli he feared, if not soon cliecked, would terminate in cliolera. We opened our house, and took him in, and would gladly have kept brother Peterson also, but he refused our invitation. He left brother Atwood in our care, and proceeded to Lake Superior. We did the best we could with such accom- modations as our little domicile could furnish — homely at best. Brother Atwood could hardly find terms sufficiently expressive of his gratitude; thought he should have died had he been left at the tavern. The simple means used were blessed, and he began grad- ually to improve. After an absence of about a week brother Peterson returned, and was much rejoiced at the evident improvement of his friend and companion. Before taking leave of the Saut he sent us ten dollars by the hand of brother AtAvood. After this he came and took tea with us. While seated in the parlor he took out some loose bills from his pocket, and re- marked, ^' I think I have a little more loose change than I shall need for traveling expenses," and passed them over to me, requesting me to accept them. On opening them I found them to amount to tweniy-five dollars. Such generosity was embarrassing; but it was shown with such earnest good will as seemed to say that it must be so. He stepped into the dining- room, and, on bidding my wife farewell, left a five dollar gold piece in her hand. He had previously presented me with a very handsome pocket map of the United States. He gave Carrie a gold dolhir and little Henry a half dollar. So far as our expe- MISSIONARY LIFE. 9^9 rience is concerned, this instance of generosity is unique. Our liberal donor afforded us help in a time of need. If it be more blessed to give than to receive, he received the greater blessing. Our most fervent prayer was that God vrould abundantly reward the cheerful giver. Should this incident come under the notice of those to whom it relates, they will please pardon the liberty I have taken with their names. August 16th found me on board the steamer Lon- don, en route to attend the annual conference. We had a rough time in crossing Lake Huron. We lay at anchor most of the day, Sunday, under an island in the vicinity of Thunder Bay. The Sabbath passed away quietly. I preached once to those aboard, and Rev. Peter Jacobs, the Indian preacher, who had spent the last thirteen years at Hudson's Bay, and was just returning to Canada, closed the services with a very interesting account of his conversion, life, and labors. ■We arrived at Detroit on Monday, about nine o'clock at night. Tuesday we spent in attending to business in the city. The same evening we took boat for Sandusky City, Ohio; thence by railroad went to Tiffin City, and thence to visit an aged mother in Crawford county, now pressed down with a weight of infirmities. Here I preached several times, and met with many old friends and acquaint- ances. I preached once in the elegant new church in Tiffin City, which had supplanted the old brick, in which some of my most notable boyhood hours 270 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF liad been spent. Every tiling liere liad clmnged. Twenty-one years had passed and gone since mother, Avith lier six children, had been ferried across the Sandusky river in a log canoe, to take up their resi- dence in Tiffin, after the recent death of a dear father, which had occurred in Licking county. Then Tiffin was a small county town, much of it situated among the stumps and logs, and much of the surround- in o> country a dense wilderness ; now a city — a teeming population, and all the evidences of thrift and prog- ress. But many of the old familiar faces were not to Ue seen. A brother H., under whose roof I had spent more than five years, was of that number. Death had aimed at them his unerring darts, and they had fallen. I should exceed the limit within which these stray leaves should fall, if I were to pen here the vivid boyhood scenes that rushed before me, and were uneffaceably daguerreotyped upon my mind. Thus much by the way. From Tiffin I proceeded to Adrian, Michigan, and spent a Sabbath with old friends there; thence re- paired to Albion, the seat of the conference, which commenced the next Wednesday, September 5th, and closed on the 10th. The session was one of much interest to me, as such seasons have almost invari- ably been. From the seat of the conference we went to De- troit, where we procured our winter supplies for the missions, and were again accompanied by several of the missionaries on our way to the Saut. MISSIONARY LIFE. 271 September 20th landed on M'Kniglit's wharf, at the Saut, and was instantly hailed by Carrie, whose first expression was that her little brother was very gick. This was to me the first announcement, and found its way like an arrow to my heart. I was Boon by his couch — but what a change! The evi- dences were too apparent to be mistaken — death was doing his mysterious work. About the time of my arrival he became unconscious ; he did not know me. Four days and nights of nearly sleepless anxiety had passed, and some heavenly messenger came and kissed away his infant breath, and on golden pinions bore his unsinning spirit up to the bosom of its God. Could it be that our sweet Henry had been snatched so suddenly away? We could hardly realize it, and yet we knew it was a stern reality. We had lost friends before — the dearest friends — but no more tender cords had ever been entwined about our hearts than those which bound us to this dear boy. Carrie's heart was nearly broken, and her eyes were turned into channels of grief and sorrow. But while the stroke fell so heavily upon us, we could but reahze that the chastening rod was in a Father's hand. Our soul submissively responded, "The Lord gave, and the Lord hath taken away, and blessed be the name of the Lord." During those trying hours we had with us brother and sister Barnum and brother Stacey, bound for Kewawenon ; and brother and sister Benson, on their way to the Eagle River mission. Brother Barnum 23 272 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF preached tlie funeral, and Trrote a note addressed to Dr. Durbin, which was published in the Missionary Advocate. The following is an extract, with the editor's — Dr. Durbin's, I suppose — note of kind sjm- athj with us in our affliction: "^Te hioiv not tvTiat shall he on tlie morrow J — Brother Pitezel very unexpectedly found his little son, an interesting child, a little less than two years old, sick. Disease, congestion of the brain. All efforts of physicians, and fond parents, and kind friends proved unavailing; and on the 24th, at half- past eight o'clock, P. M., he left us, and took his exit to the world of spirits. The parents feel their affliction deeply, as little Henry Eugene was an only son; but they have grace in their affliction to say, 'The Lord gave, and the Lord hath taken away, and blessed be the name of the Lord.'^ "Brother Steele and family have just arrived. "Yours, in the Gospel, "Nelsox Barxum. *"'We are afflicted ■with our dear brother Pitezel, Laving trav- eled the same road four different times. ls"ext to the procioug word of God, we commend to him and his bereaved companion the perusal of the 637th and 639th hymns in our K'ew Collection. — Editor." Brother Salmon Steele, who had just arrived with his family, had been passing through the furnace of affliction. Death had made a sure aim at one of hia own dear friends. Himself and several of his family MISSIONARY LIFE. 273 looked like walking shadows when they landed. They had come to take charge of the station at Naomi- kong, and were with us about a week before going to their new home. In the midst of our afflictions so many active duties constantly pressed upon us, that we had little time to indulge in gloomy appre- hensions, had we even been tempted to do so. I made this note on the 1st of November: '•For two months I have made no record in my journal. They have been eventful months, but filled with active duties. To-day I preached the funeral of a little boy — Mr. Godfrey's — that died with scrof- ula. Thus are our blooming prospects of life cut ofi by death." 274 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF CHAPTER XIX. SAUT DE STE. MAEIE JIISSION — PASSINCJ EVENTS. After the missionaries had left us for their ap- propriate fields we found, as usual, much to do pre- paratory to the approaching winter. Besides the necessary business and care connected with a general oversight of the missions in the dis- trict, the mission farm at Little Eapids required nc small attention. Up to this time one of the mission families lived there. The place was now leased, and thus lessened very much our care and perplexity. On the 22d of November I went to Naomikong to hold our first quarterly meeting. The ground was covered with snow. It was cold and wintery, but we were favored with a good wind to sail, and arrived before night. Pound brother Steele on the school- house, in true mason-like style, topping out the chim- ney. He and his family had recovered their health, and were in '' labors more abundant." We had a good quarterly meeting, but nothing extraordinary. I was chained here till Thursday afternoon following, by contrary wind. The snow was several inches deep, and I concluded that I should have to walk home — ■ a hard undertaking at that season. I took leave of MISSrO'N'ARY LIFE. 275 the mission and walked to the mill, some eight miles, hj the coast. Part of the way I walked in snow water, by which means I took a severe cold, and it laid the foundation of a pretty serious illness soon afterward. At the saw-mill we remained all night. Friday morning the wind sprung up in our f^ivor. Our boat was sent to us from Naomikong, as I had ordered if the wind should become favorable, and before nio-ht we had reached home. o IMPROVEMENTS. At jSTaomikong we had purchased rising of sixty acres of land for the mission. The Indians had bought all around us, and were building considerably. We had built since conference a comfortable school- house, and made an addition to the mission-house. Had also fitt£d up a comfortable dwelling for the interpreter. The school was opened on the 27th of November, numbering twenty-four Indian children, most of whom could read in the Testament; nine were writing, five studying arithmetic, and two geog- raphy. '^ Religious Prospects. — Brother Steele says, ^Our religious prospects are of decided improvement.' i\Ieetings of all kinds well attended, and interesting. Brother Marksman says, in a letter received the same time, Uhe Lord is now troubling the careless and hard-hearted sinners here. Last evening after the exhortation of brother Isaac, brother Steele told me that I might speak also, and immediately I lifted my 276 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF cries to God in prayer: '0 Lord, thou hast permitted thy poor servant to see sinners converted to thee in former times! let us see sinners coming to thee this evening!' In the name of God I got up and exhorted sinners to come to Jesus and be saved. Four persons came forward to the mourner's bench. We labored till nearly ten" o'clock — had a most ex- cellent meeting. They all prayed till the tears rolled down their cheeks; every soul in the house was in prayer. One of brother Steele's boys prayed with all his might." (Missionary Report.) The state of religion was very encouraging most of the winter. Early in March I visited Naomikong again. It was then fine going on the ice. Went in a two-horse sled, accompanied by my w^ife and daugh- ter. This jaunt was pleasantly executed, as it took us only one day each vfay, and is the more worthy of note as it was very seldom that we could travel so comfortably. We had a good meeting w^ith the missionaries and the Indians that were at home — sev- eral were off hunting. The conveniences for boarding native children w^ere limited at our new station. StiU four or five children were supported under the mission roof. One of the greatest disadvantages here was the isolated position of our missionaries, and the difficulty of transporting supplies from the Saut mostly in small boats. It required no small degree of self-sacrifice to live in so secluded a spot, shut out from the world mostly, and deprived of the endear- ments of such society as the missionaries had been MISSIONARY LIFE. 277 wont to gather around them. Still this was a more desirable residence than several of the remoter sta- tions. Soon after the visit to jSTaomikong mentioned above, my health was, for a time, much impaired by that most painful and debilitating disease — piles. At no time during my connection with the missions was I so completely prostrated. But I soon obtained relief, and gradually recovered my strength through the good providence of God. During this winter I added to my other duties the charge of a school. I did this in compliance vrith an urgent request of some of the leading citizens, who had failed to secure the services of a teacher from beiow before the close of navigation prevented them. We still continued preaching at the village, with variable signs of prosperity. During most of the winter and spring we had excellent congregations, and often deep and serious attention to the v>-ord preached. We were visited by brother Steele occa- sionally, vrho preached several very excellent sermons to the people. Our sacramental seasons were gen- erally seasons of heart-felt interest. The hearts of the few, representatives of several different Churches, were blended as the members of a common family. ]kit there were times when the f^eneral nc;]clect of divine things led me almost to adopt the words of the sorrowing Psalmist: "Woe is me that I sojourn in Mescch, and dwell in the tents of Kcdar." 278 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF T E M P E E A X C E . In a place like this any thing that could conduce to roll back the tide of intemperance, and avert its untold evils, was to be hailed as the harbinger of good. In the fall of 1849 the Sons of Temperance organized a Division — "Algic Chippeway Division, Iso. 107.'' This Division soon increased in num- bers, and was steadily gaining in the confidence of the people. Several persons, who had been far gone in intemperance, were by this means reclaimed. In the spring of 1850 I entered heartily into this re- form, and lectured soon after to very crowded aud- iences. The meetings in the hall were very orderly and business-like seasons, exerting a most wnolesome influence over several of the soldiers, who were mem- bers, and were thus kept away from drinking and gambling saloons. The public lectures were invaria- bly well attended, and many home-darts were there thrown, not at random, among the mixed multitude. It is with pleasure that I call to mind my association with this Division of the Sons of Temperance. Its members are now scattered; some have gone to their long home. There are several that I have hope of meeting on a better shore, which the fell destroyer, intemperance, will never approach. SICKXESS AND DEATH AMONG THE INHABITANTS, In the spring we had a number of very sudden deaths. There seemed to be something mysteriou.-^. MISSIONARY LIFE. 279 in the manner of several of these deaths. Persons -would be taken sick, but not considered dangerous, and yet the next word would, perhaps, be that they were no more. These cases did not all originate in the same disease, evidently, though there was pre- vailing at the time a kind of influenza, which was, no doubt, the exciting cause in most cases. Mj^self and family were attacked, and I did not fully recover till I reached Sandy Lake the following summer. There was some interest attached to some of these occurrences, as noted in my journal, a brief mention of which may not be amiss. They were interwoven with our missionary life. The following was penned on the 23d of March: " This afternoon I preached a funeral discourse on occasion of the sudden death of one of the mem- bers of the Division of the Sons of Temperance. The members were all in attendance, and such a crowd flocked out as I have never seen in this place to a Protestant meeting. The house was filled, and the , do^'s were crov/ded with persons standing, and a nurol^er went away that could not be accommodated. I was blessed with more than usual freedom in speak- ing from 2 Samuel xiv, 14. There was fixed atten- tion, and many wept under the word preached. "Mr. D. had lived in sin, and died, it was to be feared, without hope in Christ. He was taken last Thursday evening and died yesterday — Saturday — morning, about four o'clock. I knew nothing of his being sick till requested to attend his funeral. After 280 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF he was taken sick liis wife asked him if she should send for me to come and talk with him. He replied, that 'people would tliink it a luJiim.' She told me that these were the last words he uttered. How ter- rible for death to come and find any one thus un- prepared ! I endeavored faithfully to warn the people of the absolute necessity of a preparation for death." On the 20th of April another of the members of the Division died, a Mr. ^Y. He had been one of the best mechanics that ever had been at the Saut. But he was enticed and led away by strong drink, till he brought upon himself that horrible disease of mania a potu. At that time he could scarcely have drawn a sober breath. By this destructive poison his constitution became shattered, and he was dragging out a living death. He had, some time before, united with the Sons, and totally abandoned his cups. As a result an entu-e change came over him for the better. I visited him daily for several days, conversed vrith him about his spiritual state, gave him a Bible and some tracts, read the holy Scriptures and prayed with him. He told me, on Thursday before his death, that *'he was resolved, from that time onward, to serve God; that he had endeavored to be religious in days gone by, but had strayed far off; that he believed in the dear Redeemer, and that in him vras his only hope and consolation." He had been baptized in infancy, and brought up under the influence of the Presbyterian Church. At his request, that evening MISSIONARY LIFE. 281 I administered the sacrament of the Lord's supper to him, to his evident comfort. Friday he appeared much better — spoke of the sweet rest he had enjoyed the night before. Saturday he did not appear so well, but neither he nor myself thought his end to be so nigh. xVfter reading and prayer with him I urged him to cast all his care on the Lord. Thus I left him, and before midnight his spirit had left the clay tenement. On Monday, 21st, I preached his funeral from '• Then sliall tlie dust return to the earth as it ivas, and the spirit unto God who gave it.'' The people could not all get into the body of the house. The Division of Sons attended in a body. Several were present not accustomed to listen to Protestant preaching. We had a number of similarly-crowded funerals, some of which occurred in the summer. But I have given the two above as a little out of the ordinary course, and they must suffice. According to an old proverb, "straws show which way the wind blows;" these seemingly-unimportant events tend to throw some light on the influence at work among us. Their voice to the livino^ is that of warnino;. The last day of July, about midnight, a sad cas- ualty occurred on Lake Superior, near "White Fish Point. The Monticello ran into the Manhattan on her larboard quarter. She began to sink, and, it w^as said, in five minutes was under water to her guards on the upper deck. By the dexterity, self-possession, and heroism of Captain Wilson and several others, 282 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF on board the Monticello, all the passengers and others were taken from the sinking vessel, and every life saved. "We were told that the passengers on the Monticello had just been dancing, a thing of common occurrence on the Lake Superior boats, and, at the time of the collision, were partaking of an oyster supper. Thus are people often, in the hight of con- viviality, intoxicated by trifling amusements and sin- ful diversions; as thoughtless about their souls as though they had none, and indifferent about the ret- ributions of eternity as if such things were idle dreams, when "there is but a step between them and death." MISSIONARY LIFE. 283 CHAPTER XX. ANNUAL TOUR AMONG THE MISSIONS. "With all our increased facilities for travel on Lake Superior, by the increased number of boats, we were often subject to great detention. I had expected to leave the Saut by the 21st of May, to visit the mis- sions, but was detained till the 29th, when I left on the propeller Manhattan. I was accompanied by my wife and dau I £. = 1 5 f F 1 1 2 1 i 19 18 37 £ 1" 1 5 i f 1 I 4 5 6 15 I • 84 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF in time to take the cars for Kalamazoo, where I arrived at four o'clock, P. M., grateful to that Providence who had kept me in my recent journej- ings, by land and water, of more than two thousand miles. MISSIONARY LIFE. 385 CHAPTER XXVIII. WIFE AND CHILDREN OF THE MISSIONARY AMONG THE INDIANS. Woman lias been found generally to bear her equal share of the toils, responsibilities, privations, and dan- c^ers connected with the stru^rsfles of the nation or of O CO the Church. A work professing to delineate the phases of mission life among our aboriginal tribes, would be defective without at least a chapter on the part which woman, surrounded bj her children, is called to act in so noble an undertaking as the evan- gelization of this interesting portion of the human race. There is much of romance in the first intervievrs of a stranger with the Indians. The Christian ladij — which we must take to be true of the missionary's wife — in taking up her residence at an Indian mission, finds herself environed by sights, and sounds, and influences, to her entirely new and strange. The con- versation of the inhabitants is about as intelligible to her as the chattering of birds. She may have half a dozen associates of her own lani^ua^e and manner CD C of life. Perhaps she is alone, except the members of her own family. Often she finds herself the only white female in the house of worship. At first there is a peculiar charm about all the exercises of the 386 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF sanctuary. Tlie preaching through an interpreter — the songs of praise Avhich ^vell up out of "uarin Christian liearts, in an unknown tongue — the devout prayer, though unintelligible, except by the magnetic prower of the Spirit's influence, ^vhich, \vhen it moves one heart, by a well-known sympathetic influence, touches a spring which causes every other devout heart to vibrate in unison, whatever be the lan- guage — the story of the cross, as related by these children of nature — the subdued meekness of ex- pression, and the scalding tears, which often chase each other down over brawny faces — all these, and many other things, operate like a charm, and move the tender sympathies of the female heart. But the spell is at length broken. With all the holy influences connected with such scenes, they be- gin to wear an aspect of monotony. Thought is busy within, as she casts around her and feels like a speckled bird, in the midst of a strange people. With the speed of lightning, thought wings its flight across lakes, forests, and plains. Her body is on mission ground, but her mind is with loved ones *'far, far away." The influences of the sanctuary, in her native land, where every thing had free course, in her own tongue, rush into her mind unbidden*, and uncon- sciously she falls into the pious meanings of the royal Psalmist : " How can we sing the Lord's song in a strange land? If I forget thee, Jerusalem, let my right hand forget her cunning. If I do not re- member thee, let my tongue cleave to the roof of MISSIOXAKY LIFE. 387 my mouth; if I prefer not Jerusalem above my chief joy." Her domestic cares are onerous and trying. In the nature of things she must often be left to servo alone. But, if every thing else diflfers about her, she must have her household regulations as much after the old sort as possible. She has, it may be, just performed her kitchen duties. "With the complai- sance Avont to characterize woman, after her floor is well scoured and every thing in trim, she catches up her knitting or sewing, and is just about to have a little respite from more active toil. But just now half a dozen, perhaps a dozen, Indians come to the door, and, without knocking, open the door and walk in as though they were lords of the concern. The men usually become seated in a chair. Often the women, with their papooses, squat upon the floor, where it is most convenient. The men fill their long pipes with tobacco, and Mn-i-kin-ick, a leaf which they use for smoking, or, as a substitute, they often use the bark of red alder. Now, for some time, it is puff and spit. The lady of the house must screw up her olfactories to the utmost, and then if she do not cast some meaning side glances at her insulted floor, as though she sympathized with it, it is because she do n't know how. But now comes the important part of the scene before us. One of these consequential personages volunteers to become the speaker for the rest. He begins: "- Ka-gate, ncc-je, ah-pi-che nc-huk-a-da-min. 388 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Kali-ga-go Jco-hoosli^ hai'Ji-ga-go pali-qua-zhe-gim^ JcaJi- ga-go mon-dali-mhi, kah-ga-go hee-go^ me sith ah-noge ka-go mej-e-um, kah-we-ah. Ka-gate ah-pi-cke sun- ak-gut! Ak-pa-gisk, oiee-je, pun-ge p>a]i-qua-zkc-gun^ ki-ya ko-koosk^^ etc. In plain English : " Indeed, my friend, we are very hungry. We have no pork, no bread, no potatoes, no corn, no fish, and so of every thing else. "We have no provision of any kind. In- deed this is very hard! I desire, friend, that ^^ou would give us some bread and pork." If this can not be afforded, something else is desired as a sub- stitute. What is to be done now? In sympathy to the hungry, the missionary's wife brings forth what is left of the last baking, something else is added, to stop this clamor for a morsel of food, and the hungry are sent away with a glad heart. As they take their leave their benefactress bethinks herself that her domestic cares were not lessened by the short stay of these visitors. The picture here drawn does not apply to those Indians who have availed them- selves of the benefits of missionary teaching to any considerable degree. These are mostly honorable ex- ceptions. But this sketch is neither overdraAvn nor of rare occurrence. The Christian matron finds it a difficult thing to train up her children aright surrounded by such in- fluences. Her little ones are at the very age when impressions are indelibly made. In the school there is nothing to excite to emulation. The missionary's children, having the advantage of their mother tongue, MISSIONARY LIFE. 389 are generally in advance of the other scholars, and are rather held in check than aided by their asso- ciates. Children must have playmates. If they can have no others, they soon contract an intimacy for the Indian children, rapidly learn their language, and slide imperceptibly into many of their habits. To guard against such an evil, and to secure, as far as possible, a correct training, imposes no small charcre on the wife of the missionary. With her husband she becomes a partner in the great field of evangelical labor, and, to the extent of her ability, becomes a teacher of civilization in the management of her domestic relations. A stranger will soon be struck with the difference between the progress made in housewifery by the Indian women at our stations and those at Catholic stations. The comparison is greatly in favor of the former. This is owing, in a very great degree, to the example set the natives by our female missionaries. IN'ot the least of her privations are the seasons of her husband's often long absence. Her condition is most lonely, having often scarcely any about her but natives, and, perchance, many of these untamed and ferocious in their appearance — enough to frighten a delicate female, unless possessed of undaunted cour- age. Added to this, she can not be — she is not — unmindful of exposures and perils of her husband, as he spends wearisome days and nights in the wintery forest, or encounters storms?on the raging deep. A missionary's wife thus writes to her husband when 390 LIGHTS AND SHADES OE many miles had separated them: ^^ Bear Hush and,— I received yours from Eagle River, and also from La Pointe. We are all well, and feel thankful for the blessing of health. Never did I spend a more anxious Sabbath than the one after you left. 1 knew you must have a very hard time, which proved to be true. I can assure you tliat night was a very lonely one to me. I went to bed, but not to sleep. ]\ly prayer was that the Lord would deliver you. How good the Lord is to those that put their trust in him! Brother J. said I might rest assured you were under White Fish Point. It was not any con- solation to me. I never saw the river [Ste. Marie] in such motion as it was that day." ^ The feelings of a missionary's wife in her lonely hours may be seen in the following brief extract from a letter to her husband: '^I have never missed you as much as I have this time. I felt very uneasy about you after your leaving. Every thing looked gloomy." What made those hours more lonely was, that at such times disease stealthily found its way occa- sionally into the family circle, piercing loved one? with painful, if not fatal, darts. But she whose position we are now viewing be- comes the traveler. Her sphere is not local, at least for any length of time. If you would test her reso- * Reference is "here made to the stormy Sabbatli I spent on the pro- peller Independence described above. MISSIOXART LIFE. 393 lution, her courage in danger, and lier fortitude in the hour of suffering, you must accompany her, per- haps with the infant in her arms, as she coasts, for days and weeks together, in the frail bu'chen canoe, over noisy waves, beneath the scalding sun, the drenching rain, or falling snow; view her as she sits thoughtfully beside her camp-fire, amid the wild scenes around her. It may be her fortune to meet the fury of the dashing and foaming rapids, or to be hurried down them with wild excitement, amid dan- gerous rocks or jutting crags. And, anon, she is seen trudging in mud knee-deep across land port- ages. Old Humphry sets down as an exaggerated expression,^ wading in mud "knee-deep." His re- mark is doubtless true where it was designed to ap- ply; but if any person will cross the Savan Portage, without getting knee-deep in the slough, he must be remarkable for dexterity as a pedestrian. We must view our heroine — for such she may be justly styled, in the best sense of the term — from one or two other stand-points. "We must go to some of the remoter inland stations. Here heathenism is seen yielding its legitimate fruits in abundance. Here are scenes so revolting that the eye of hu- manity turns away and weeps. Here are sights that move to pity and yearning commiseration; cold, na- kedness, and hunger — sickness, pain, and "anguish. Death strews his victims around, without pity, and the grave opens to receive them, if perchance their bones are not left bleaching on the ground. Some 33 394 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF such scenes have been before given. Here is added an extract from a letter, written to my wife by Mrs. Rev. S. Spates, of Sandy Lake mission, dated Janu- ary 31, 1850. If the reader can peruse it unmoved, ' e is more of a stoic than the writer : "Dear Sister Pitezel, — I have long been want- ino- to write to you, but have never taken my pen in hand to do so till now. We are all well at present ; and truly, I think, I feel thankful to the Giver of every good and perfect gift for this great blessing ; for never was there a time when it was more import- ant for us to have good Jiealth for the performance of the duties that devolve on us than at present. "The Indians, or at least many of them, at this place, lost all their gardens last summer by the great freshet, and, from the same cause, the wild rice crop was entirely destroyed in this region, and, conse- quently, there is quite a famine among them. There are several large families here who have not a pound of provision, and their only chance to get any tiling is to cut holes in the ice and try to take fish with a hook, for the water is not clear enough to spear them. If they succeed, they have something to eat; if not, they must wrap up in their blankets, and lie down, amid the cries of their hungry children, to pass the night without food. " Formerly, when the rice crop was cut off, they could live by hunting. But this winter they all say there are very few tracks of any kind of animals to MISSIONARY LIFE. 395 be seen, so few tliat tliey have almost entirely given up hunting. But the Indians at this place are not alone in their suffering. All the Indians north of us, as far as -we have been able to learn, are in a still Avorsc condition. They are not only hungry, but are almost naked. The rabbits, previous to this Avinter, have always been very numerous in that part of the country, and, as their lands have not been purchased Ly Government, they, of course, have no annuities from that source, and their principal clothing has been made of the skins of rabbits, and their flesh was their main dependence for food. But this winter there were no rabbits to be had, and it is to be feared that a great many of these poor Indians must perish with hunger and cold before spi^ng. You can better imagine than I can describe our feelings, when, a few days since, a ivJiole hand of these poor, starving, naked creatures made their * appearance among us. They were scarcely able to walk. A few of the strongest ones came several days before the others. They said they had eaten nothing for eight days. After recruiting a day or two, they procured a little provision, and started back to meet the others. "When they reached them, they were so far gone that they would walk a few steps and fall down. After eating, however, they gathered strength, and all reached here alive. But how all the Indians that are here now are to live till spring I can not tell. To all human ap- pearance, some of them must starve to death. The Lord blessed us with a fine crop of potatoes last 396 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF fall, amounting to nearly three hundred bushels. By cooking potatoes, we are able to feed a good many of them. We generally give away from ten to thirty portions a day, besides what we let them have to take away with them. Within the past month we have thus fed between three and four hundred In- dians. ^'But this seems to effect but little toward reliev- ing their sufferings. I frequently think if our good Christian brethren could be with us, and witness with what gratitude they receive a little food, and have them beg for every thing in their sight, even to the potato peelings, and see with what eagerness they gather up the smallest pieces — could they see how stupid, ignorant, filtliy, and degraded they are— could they, in a word, behold the image of their blessed Lord in such ruins, such dreadful ruins, as we here behold it, their purse-strings would be unloosed, tears of sympathy would flow freely from their eyes, their interest for the cause of missions among the heathen would be greatly increased, and the burden of their prayer would be, Lord, send forth speedily more laborers into thy harvest ! There are hundreds, per- haps thousands, of poor Lidians in this wilderness who have never heard the name of Jesus. My eyes overflow with tears at this thought ; and unless they are soon Christianized and taught to cultivate the soil, they must soon become extinct ; for game, which is their principal source of subsistence, is becoming scarcer every year." 3IISSI0NAIIY LIFE. 397 This lengthy and touching extract shoTN'S "^ith T^hat feelings the missionary's mfe looks upon the phys- ical, intellectual, and moral destitution around her; how hor noble and generous sympathies bound to meet those crying wants, and how her hands act in concert to deal out bread to the hungry ; thus to be- come eyes to the blind, and feet to the lame. I think of several female missionaries, who have spent years in that remote region, a delineation of whose labors and sufferings for the cause of Christ would be in- valuable to the Church. Their own pen could make the record. THE FAMINE. " the long, the dreary winter I the cold and cruel winter I Ever thicker, thicker, thicker, Froze the ice on lake and river, Ever deeper, deeper, deeper, Fell the snow o'er all the landscape. Fell the covering snow, and drifted Through the forest— round the village ; Hardly from his buried wigwam Could the hunter force a passage ; With his mittens and his snow-shoes Yainly walked he through the forest, Sought for bird, or beast, and found none, Saw no track of deer or rabbit. In the snow beheld no fcot-prints ; In the ghastly, gleaming forest Fell, and could not rise from weakness- Perished there from cold and hunger." Song of Hiawatha, pp. 262-3, 398 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF CHAPTER XXIX. INDIAN CHARACTERISTICS. The reader may be disappointed if he should not find, in a work of this kind, a chapter, at least, devoted to some of the leading features Tshich indelibly stamp the Indian character. It must be confessed that the subject is a difficult one to treat properly, and this is the more so within the narrow limits assigned to these remarks. The Indian is wont to look back to palmy days, in his traditional history, when his people could boast of numbers and of prowess ; when, comparatively free from diseases, they were rapidly increasing; when they could rally numerous braves, fitted, by training, for the chase, or for war. They think of their once vast forests, rich and luxuriant, and abounding with game — of their lakes and rivers, filled with the finny tribes. They contemplate, with sorrow and dejection, the joyous days, when contact with the "pale faces" had not introduced among them various pestilences and epidemics, by which their thriving settlements were fast depopulated — of those days when they had not come in contact with the worse pestilence of their peculiar vices, to fill up the measure of their already corrupt and sinful moral being. MISSIONARY LIFE. 399 To form a correct view of Indian cliaracter some- thing more is requisite than the passing glance of the traveler. There is danger here of forming a hasty judgment, and drawing "pen and ink sketches," life-like though they may be, as imaginary portraits, yet fail to reflect the original, TVe look in vain into the dense shades of the wilderness, the home of the red man, for those marks of greatness to be found amono; manv other nations. We see not smilino; fields CD t/ O waving with golden harvests. Vainly do we look for thrifty villages and populous cities, with the din and bustle of business, and the ebbing and flowing tide of commerce. The school, the college, the church, and the legislative assembly greet not the eye of the beholder. All is the wildness and ruggedness of na- ture, untamed and unsubdued. The highest achieve- ment af skill in the mechanic art is to construct the rude wigwam, the snow-shoe, or the birchen canoe. The steamboat has not found its way into the deep and broad river, nor has the flying locomotive, the ish-Jiii-fa-o-dau-bo7i, the fire- wagon, sped its way over the wide domain. The printing-press, Herschel's telescope, and the electric telegraph would be alike useless to this rude people. Vainly we look for the philosopher, the historian, the discoverer, the inventor, the man of genius. It would seem to be a natural inference, from such evidences, that the Indians are a very inferior race; tliat, intellectually, they are far below most other nations. As an existing and general fact, it can not 400 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF Le called in question that, in many respects, they are inferior to their white neighbors. In point of knowledge they confess themselves to be but mere children compared with others. As men, they would be slow to admit that they were inferior to the proud- est monarch. But this admission is not sufiScient proof of real inferiority in native talent and capability. It has re- sulted rather from want of opportunity to develop existing talent. Powers of body or mind unused soon become imbecile. It can not be doubted that the tendency of all the scenes and associations sur- rounding the untutored Indian is to barbarism, to a savage state. It is a tendency downward. Every thing tends to depress and degrade fallen humanity to a deeper degradation, socially, intellectually, and morally. Let these opposing influences operate unre- strained for untold ages, and what must be the nec- essary result? The tendency of these influences is demonstrated in the fact that, in numerous instances, where people of other nations have taken up their abode with the Indians, they have gradually adopted their manners and customs. It requires, in such cases, only two or three generations to bring them down to the level! of their barbarous neighbors. What then can we expect of the Indian in the midst of his darkness and barbarism ? But with such names to enliven the page of Indian history as Pjntiac, Blue Jacket, Osceola, Logan, Te- MISSIONARY LIFE. 401 cumseli, and Black-Hawk/-' who can question the high intellectual capability of the tribes they represent? Under more favorable auspices, many of them would have been the patrons of the arts and sciences, their eloquence would have resounded in the forum, and the wisdom of their statesmen would have rendered venerable their legislative assemblies. The lines of the poet may apply truthfully to the untutored Indian : " Full many a flower is bom to blush unseen, And waste its fragrance on the desert air." In many examples in Indian history we have some of the finest specimens of impassioned eloquence on record. For striking and beautiful imagery, terse and forcible illustration, and deep pathos, where shall we look for better examples? Than this fact alone no better evidence could be afforded of a high order of intellect. The book of the Indian orator is al- ways spread out before him. He draws his illustra- tions from the sun, moon, and stars, and the firmament which environs him like a great wigwam. Forests and mountains, beasts, birds, fishes, and reptiles, riv- ers, lakes, and oceans, furnish him with appropriate metaphors and striking comparisons. A few brief specimens must suffice. *To this list may be added such names as Mononcue, Between-tho- Logs, John Sunday, and Peter Jones, among the Christianized Indians. These were men capable of standing in the presence of governors and kings. 402 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF The following brief speech was made by Sastarexj, chief of the Hurons, to La Motte, the French com- mandant at Detroit. It had reference to the o-ivinor up, on the part of the Outawas, of Le JPesant, called The Bear^ to atone for his murderous acts among the Miamis. Sastarexy did not believe that this great bear, so dreaded by the Indians, would be given into their hands. He was for wreakins; his venc-eance on some of the enemy that were at hand. Le Pesant was at Mackinaw. He addressed La Motte as fol- lows : ''- 3Iy Father^ — Let us say to you that we can not believe that the Outawas will do what they have promised; for who is he that can overturn so great a tree, [Le Pesant] whose roots, they themselves say, are so deep in the earth, and whose branches extend over all the lakes ? There is meat here ; why go farther to seek it? One is certain, the other is uncertain." (Sheldon's Early Hist. Mich., p. 225.) The following is the closing of a speech made by Logan, a chief of the Cayugas, after all his relatives had been murdered in cold blood, without provocation, by Colonel Cresap, a white man : " There runs not a drop of my blood in the veins of any living creature. This called on me for re- venge. I have sought it. I have killed many. I have fully glutted my vengeance. For my country I rejoice at the beams of peace; but do not harbor a thought that mine is the joy <5f fear. Logan never felt fear. He will not turn on his heel to save his MISSIONARY LIFE. 403 life. Who is there to mourn for Logan? Xot onel" (Frost's Indian Wars, page 153.) The following is Black-Hawk's speech, after he had f\iiled to effect the deliverance of his people: ^'Farewell, my nation! Black-Hawk tried to save YOU, and revenge your wrongs. He drank the blood of some of the whites. He has been taken prisoner, and his flames are stopped. He can do no more. He is near his end. His sun is setting, and he will rise no more. Farewell to Black-Hawk." (Ibid., page 267.) The Indians are imitative beings. The ingenuity and skill they display in making their nets, snow- shoes, and birch canoes, under proper tuition, will enable them to excel as mechanics. The skill of the women in weaving mats and sacks and making fancy articles of birch bark, which they ornament with col- ored porcupine quills and painted figures, and their fine specimens of bead-work, show that they can readily learn to manufacture clothes and fancy arti- cles with the needle. Their susceptible progress in the various arts of civilization might be shown by numerous interesting facts, which it would be tedious to relate here. Some of the most striking features of Indian char- acter, as all their history attests, are love of liberty and independence, intrepidity in the chase or in war, generosity to strangers, patient endurance of fatigue, cold, and hunger, feelings of revenge for v>-rong3 suf- fered, fortitude in the midst of perils, and contempt 404 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF of death. See this last remark illustrated in Logan's speech. But a picture of Indian character can not be drawn without some dark lines. Much of Indian history is a history of wars. These are marked, in many in- stances, by savage ferocity and by acts of cruelty and inhumanity almost without parallel, unless it is to be found in the treatment they have received from their enemies. Mr. Frost, in speaking of the Indian wars in the time of the American Revolution, says, "The whole course of the contest maintained between the Indians and the Americans, had been marked by an excess of cruelty almost unparalleled in the annals of war. Women and children were put to death as mercilessly as those in arms." (Page 181.) The Indians have often proved treacherous to their best friends. And yet it would be hard to prove from this that treachery characterizes them as a people. They have often, at such times, been influenced by their more knowing false friends and ill advisers, to whom they have looked for counsel. In extenuation of the cruelty of the Indians toward others, it may be stated that they have seldom been the aggressors, and have often suffered much before they have sought for revenge. But when once the fires of revenge have been kindled, they have exhibited more of the ratj^e of demons than the reason of men. Among the Indians, woman is degraded far beneath her appropriate sphere. The term uwman is one of reproach. To act meanly and cowardly is to act the MISSIONARY LIFE. 405 woman. To be called a woman is an insult scarcely to be endured. To be clad in woman's dress and tieated like a woman, as a punishment, is the climax of public disgrace. See an interesting case related in Hall's Life of Rev. John Clark, where Gov. Cass ^'decided to make a ivoman" of an Indian who had been guilty of a high misdemeanor. The Governor caused him to be divested of his own clothing, instead of which he was invested with "an old, greasy petti- coat." "It is said that he never recovered his posi- tion with his tribe, but was ever after considered as disfranchised and degraded." (Page 82.) The women cultivate the patches of corn and pota- toes, besides doing the other drudgery about home. But respecting this Mr. Schoolcraft says: "It is not generally known that this labor is not compul- sory, and that it is assumed by the females as a just equivalent, in their view, for the onerous and contin- uous labor of the other sex, in providing meats and skins for clothing by the chase, and in defending their villages against their enemies, and in keeping intru- ders off their territories." (Notes to the Song of Hiawatha, page 307.) For all this, it is an undoubted fact that the men very willingly avoid this labor, when they are far more able to do it than those upon whom the burden falls. The lordly head of the family, in his prime and vigor, and the active youth of sixteen, often lounge about the wigwam for days together, and see aged and decrepit mothers and grandmothers, and 406 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF siiperannuatecl old men, bending under the weight of burdens " grievous to be borne/^ without lending a helping hand. There is much of primitive simplicity embodied in their language and hieroglyphics. Like the Hebrew language, their names are highly significant, and are usually given, not arbitrarily, but to express some quality or trait in the person or thing to which they are applied. The fire-ivatcr for whisky, the fire- ivagon for the locomotive, the Great Knife for the American people, in allusion to the terrible use they made of the sword in the Indian wars, may serve as examples. Men and women are named after trees, birds, beasts, and other objects animate or inani- mate, to suit their fancy. Tecumseh was appropri- ately named the ^' Crouching Panther.''^ The Indians, like the ancient Israelites, have their iotemSy or family coat of arms. These are preserved in hieroglyphics carved in wood or painted on bark. The totem may be the hear, the eagle, the fox, or any other animal. At the decease of a relative, the totem is placed at the head of the grave. Generations may have passed away, and near relatives may have been scattered far and wide, but wherever they find the same coat of arms, they know that they belong to the same original stock and are descended from the same parents. They thus preserve the identity of their tribes with great care. The mythology and religion of the Indians is in- vested with much interest to such as would study MISSIONARY LIFE. 407 Indian character. I find a paragraph so appropri- ately written on this subject in Hall's Life of Rev. John Clark, that the reader Avill be gratified at its insertion here : " The Indians believed in the Great Spirit, Avhom they always located in the sky, and to whom they ascribed many of his attributes. They always regard him as omniscient and the hearer of prayer ; he is supreme in power and infinite in goodness. But they were at the same time polytheists ; they clothed the fields, forests, and waters with divinities, and re- garded every part of creation as animated by spirits visible and invisible. Some were malignant and some benign, and they presided over the affairs and desti- nies of men. These must be propitiated by sacrifice, and their ofi'erings must be followed by fasts to ren- der them acceptable, and by feasts to express grati- tude. Such is the ground- work of their religion; but superstition has grafted upon the original stock, till it has become monstrous with demonology, witch- craft, and necromancy. They have no succession in the priesthood, but, like the office of war-captain, it is assumed and exercised by men of more than ordi- nary acuteness and cunning. It is conferred by the election of opinion, but not of votes. While they regard the Great Spirit as having his residence in the sky, they invariably locate their minor divinities in the earth. The idea of a universal deluge is fully entertained by all the Indians, and it is found in their tales and legends, even at the greatest distance from 408 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF civilization and Christianity. They have also some crude notions of the incarnation, as is evident from legends gathered and translated by Mr. Schoolcraft." (Pages 78, 79.) A few facts may not be amiss here, as illustrative of their idolatrous and polytheistic worship. Some years since, Rev. P. Marksman found at Naomikong, Lake Superior, a singular-shaped stone, evidently worn by the action of water, which he presented me as one of their gods. Many of the islands are desig- nated by the words manito minis, which mean sjnrit island. The island of Mackinav*', according to Mr. Schoolcraft, signifies ''place of the dancing spirits." A lofty rock islet stands, like a lone monument, in the St. Louis river, near the head of Grand Portage, which the Indians regard with superstitious venera- tion. Many of them think it daring presumption to attempt to scale its summit. They often coast along it, and lay their grateful offerings of tobacco on its ledges, to propitiate the presiding divinity. All who have ever spent much time among the Ojibwa Indians, have heard something about the won- drous tutelar divinity, "of mysterious birth" and wondrous achievements, designated by several titles, but commonly called Ma-ne-hu-zlio. When at Kewa- wenon, John Southwind presented me with a small image of an old man carved in wood, designed to represent this divinity, which, I was told, had de- scended through four generations. Some of the greatest blessings enjoyed by the Indians are by MISSIONARY LIFE. 409 them attributed to the agency of 3Ia-ne-hu-zho, whose very name is a synonym of wisdom. Several of the legends of this personage, combined with some others of similar character, form the outline of the very singular and attractive poem by Longfellow, en- titled " The Song of Hiawatha." Many phases of Indian character are here painted with the hand of the master. The production is a fine addition to the classic literature of American authors, and will be read with great interest by every student of the In- dian. Poetic license has been taken with some In- dian words and phrases, which might be expected. But whatever the critics may say, his poem will live and be admired as a monument of the author's ge- nius and a beautiful tribute to the fast-fading and disappearing tribes of the wilderness. From numerous incidents before given in this work, it is but too apparent that the moral traits of heathen Indians give a dark coloring to the picture. Igno- rance and stupidity, superstition, idolatry, sorcery, and necromancy, with the long and dark train of heathen vices and abominations, are to be found here. If the apostle Paul had spent years among this people, he could not have traced their moral lin- eaments into a more complete life-likeness than he has done in the first chapter to the Romans, from which one brief clause is enough: '^Filled ivitli all unrighteousness,^^ Here is God's image "m dreadful ruinsJ' Without the Gospel, as a people they are ** witJiout Iwper ^ 34 410 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF CHAPTER XXX. PLEA FOR IXDIAX ]\IISSIONS The Christianization and civilization of the abo- riginal tribes of North America have enlisted the warm Christian sympathy and enlarged benevolence of many of the wisest and best men. Su *h, evi- dently, do not look upon the efforts of the Church and the nation, in this direction, as visionary and impracticable, but as founded upon reason and the higher demands of revelation. Still it is net to be questioned that skepticism prevails widely among men whose influence is felt, and felt, too, even within the pale of the Church, and the energies of many thus become paralyzed, and the streams of benevolence are dried up or turned out of their course. "When traveling on Lake Superior I fell in com- pany with a gentleman of learning and talent — a statesman — a man of influence as a popular orator, who evinced, in general, great respect for religion, but who considered that "the attempts of mission- aries to better the condition of Indians had hitherto proved an utter failure, and that it was to fight against Providence to attempt, under existing circumstances, to better their condition." In the very able and important reports of Messrs. MISSIONARY LIFE. 411 Foster and Whitney on the Geology and Topography of the Lake Superior region, after an interesting and highly-appreciatory sketch of the labors and suffer- ings of Jesuit missionaries, in the vicinity of the lakes, vre have the following statement, which, if we understand it, is intended to apply to all missionary efforts bestowed upon the Indians. The idea is, that they have proved a failure. The statement, without qualification, is copied into Sheldon's Early History of Michigan, and is thus embalmed in the history of our country. It is as follows : " The effect of the contact of the two races has been to afford the Indian addi- tional incentives to vice, while his intellectual and moral elevation has been little advanced; and, at this day, it can not be said that he stands higher in the scale of civilization than when first known by the white man." (Part I, page 10.) Here, by a single sweep of the pen, the labors, sacrifices, and, in many instances, eminent successes of missionaries in this field, are scattered to the winds and covered with oblivion. But they may well afford to suffer such a fate wdien it is remembered that '' their record is on bio-h, and their memorial with their God." These statements may be considered in the light of objections to missionary effort among the Indians. Let us examine them briefly. The first assumes, as true, that missionary efforts among the Indians have proved an utter failure. The assumption we deny as unfounded, and rest the matter here for the pres- ent. It is said to be "to fight against Providence 412 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF to attempt, under existing circumstances, to better their condition." If to attempt to carry into effect tlie authoritative command of Providence, to go into all the world and preach the Gospel to every creature, is to figlit against Providence^ then the Christian Church may plead guilty to the charge. If, on the contrary, the mandate of Heaven is to be obeyed, it is not only to acquiesce in, but to act in harmony with the will of Providence, to labor Avith a view to the elevation of the red man. The statement taken from the reports we may ad- mit, in part, what is here affirmed, that ''the effect of the contact of the two races has been to afford the Indian additional incentives to vice." But has it not afforded him also limitless incentives to virtue, which were beyond his reach? On the same principle of reasoning, we might say that the means of human progress open up incentives and furnish occasions for the spread of vice among white people; there- fore, the means of progress have not bettered the condition of the white people. The progress of vice has evidently kept pace with the march of improve- ment, if it has not far outstripped it. Mr. Frost, in the preface to his Indian Wars, makes the following statement as a fact, gathered from In- dian history : " Their wars among themselves, in which they persist, thin their numbers from year to year, and their habits of life are by no means favora- ble to an increase of population, or even to the pres- ervation of their race. Whole tribes have already MISSIONARY LIFE. 413 disappeared, from causes independent of the hostility of the people ; and similar causes now in operation threaten their total extermination, even if they should suffer no more from the fatal rifle, or the destroying influence of intoxicating liquors." He adds, "It is hoped that Christian benevolence may yet devise some means by which this interesting and brave people may be preserved, and become instructed in the arts of civilized life." The fact is, the doom of the red man was sealed by causes growing Avholly out of his heathen condition. Contact with the white people threw open the gate of knowledge before him, and bid him enter. If the knowledge necessary to point out the path of virtue, opened up new in- centives to vice, it is to be viewed as an accident rather than a necessary result. But for the cupidity of those whose efforts have been opposed to the be- nevolent attempts to elevate the Indian, he would have stood far higher to-day than he does in the scale of civilization. That the Indian's ''intellectual and moral elevation has been little advanced," compared with the desires of the Church, is a painful fact. But we must hesi- tate before adopting the following: "At this day it can not be said that he stands higher in the scale of civilization than when first known by the white man." If we should throw aside entirely the reports of missionaries, as not entitled to credit, any one may satisfy himself by consulting the statements of agents 414 LIGHTSAND SHADES OF and officers of tlie Government, found in tlie reports of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, that great ad- vances have been made among many of these tribes m civilization and Christianity. I will not burden these pages with extracts which might be made from these reports; but against such assertions as the' above, generally made without proof, I offer the fol- lowing statement of a President of the United States, Mr. Tyler, in his message of 1842 — Frost's Indian "Wars, page 284 — "With several of the tribes great progress in civilizing them has already been made. The schoolmaster and the missionary are found side by side, and the remains of what Avere once numerous and powerful nations, may ^'et be preserved as the builders up of a new name for themselves and their posterity." The argument against the elevation of the Indian, from the comparatively few who have been actually Christianized, and partially or wholly civilized, may be as legitimately opposed to the Christian religion in its influence over the nations of the earth. Though eighteen hundred years have elapsed since it was first introduced, it is confined within narrow limits yet, compared with the entire population of the globe. "The whole number of Indians within the states and territories," says Dr. Durbin, " does not exceed four hundred thousand."' Admitting that the number of Protestant Church members among these does not exceed eight or ten thousand in the United States and the territories, of which the Methodist Episcopal MISSIONARY LIFE. 415 Cliurcb, and tlie Methodist Episcopal Cluircli South, embrace between five and six thousand: compare even this number -ftith the whole number of Indians, making allovrance for the numbers thus Christianized who have died annually, in holy triumph, and the re- sults tell favorably for the cause; especially when we remember that it has not been half a century since our first Indian missions were commenced, the formi- dable obstacles to be overcome before those missions could obtain a firm footing, and the adverse influences which have operated since. Hand in hand with this Christianizing process, have been the shop, the farm, the school, and other means of social, civil, and relig- ious elevation. The theorist may conclude that these things' have not bettered the condition of the Indian, but the Indian himself knows to the contrary, and testifies to the contrary. Do you say that all this forms only the exception to a general rule ? I deny the application of this principle here. The world was bettered by the introduction of Christianity, be- fore a millionth part had actually tested its virtue. The civilizing influences of Christianity can not be introduced into any barbarous or savage nation, with- out conferrinor a benefit on the whole, xlll the ^N^orth American Indians are bound together by many ties of affinity. Christianity has been introduced among them — it is the leaven hid in the meal, and must affect, more or less, the entire lump. Its vrork may be slow and gradual, but it must ^o on and increase. The AVeslevan missionaries in Canada have been 416 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF among the most successful in their missionary efforts •among the Indians. The flame which first broke out among them, extended to the distant shore of Lake Superior. The following speeches, published some years ago, in the Christian Advocate and Journal, show the influence of this work on the Canada In- dians, and the sympathy they felt for their distant brethren yet without the Gospel. The touching and heart-felt response made by the chief at Kewawenon to the speech of Yellow Head, shows how much those Indians felt their need of the same purifying and elevating Gospel: SPEECH OF YELLOW HEAD, HEAD CHIEF OF THE CHIP PEWA TRIBE AT LAKE SIMCOE, UPPER CAN- ADA, IN BEHALF OF ALL THE CANADIAN CHIPPEWAS. '' To ALL THE ChIPPEWAS IN THE UxiTED STATES OF America, — my nation! My eldest brother! Hear ye what I have to say to you. We have re- ceived a great blessing from the Great Spirit. It is the word of the Great Spirit which teaches his holy religion, and which our forefathers never had. This is a good religion for us. I am now old and gray- headed, but I find this to be a very good religion. "Oncel was blind, but the Great Spirit made me see when his light shined upon me through the thick mist that covered me up. When in this evil state of darkness, we had no comfort at all, but were in a most wretched condition. "We were lying about taverns and in the streets, or before the doors in the mud, MISSIONARY LIFE. 417 where the white people threw out their dirty slops; while our wives and children, living in huts made of boughs of trees, were naked, cold, and starving. This is the work of the evil spirit, in giving us the fire-water to drink, and this is the way he serves his children and gives them no happiness. We then thought we were living ; but we were all dead in sin ; and when we think of what we have been it makes us feeV miserable. Therefore we speak to you, and tell you to take the religion of the Great Spirit. '' When we embraced this religion it made us happy in our hearts, and we were no longer lying drunk in the streets, but lived in houses like the white men, and our women and children were comfortable and happy. We drank no more fire-water, which makes men act like fools — like the hogs that live in the mud. Hear this, my nation, and take the true religion of the Bible, which will make you happy, and drink no more fire-water, and let me hear from you then, and tell me how you like my words. Now we shake hands with you in all our hearts; also with your women and children. We love you all much in our hearts. This is all I have to say. "Me Shukeexce." speech of pen ashe, chief at kewawenox, in REPLY TO THE FOEEGOING. "I feel truly thankful to hear from our brethren at the east, and that they have found the true religion, and received a blessing from the Great Spirit. I 85 418 LIGHTS AND SHADES OP have taken the wampum which they sent us in my hand, and looked at it. It is all white. But the string is red, which tells us that the Son of God came into the world and spilled his blood. Now we must all listen to the words of the Great Spirit. I have now given my answer. We shake hands with you all in our hearts. This is all I have to say. "Penashe Quemezhan Shis Shaanwabetoo." The facts in the above speeches speak voiumes in behalf of the power of the Gospel to elevate the red man. Several similar testimonials from individuals have been before given in our narrative. But it was not my design to enter into a labored argument on this point. The brief answer made to objections, which have been placed in a strong light, must suffice. If the professing Christian has been skeptical, let him banish his doubts, and come up nobly to his part of this great work. As surely as Christ hath tasted death for every man, is it the will of God that the Indians should share in the inherit- ance of the purchased possession. But this is a "work of faith," as well as a "labor of love." These missions must, to accomplish their object, live in the heart of the Church. They must share in her wai-m- est sympathies and prayers, and receive her liberal gifts of men and means, not in proportion to the number of converts, but in proportion to the value of a single soul savingly enlightened. The claims of the Indian upon the Christian sym- MISSIONARY LIFE. 419 pathies of the nation are great beyond measure. Christianity makes us the debtor to this people. But, added to this, we are the inheritors of their once vast forests, broad rivers, and lakes. As a result of the contest between the victors and the conquered, many of their noblest sons have bathed the ground with their blood. Their history is one of aggression of the stronger on the domain of the weaker — a history of wrong, of cruelty, of blood. It is not here inti- mated that our Government has intended to inflict wrong upon the Indian tribes. It has, doubtless, aimed to adopt a policy which, in the end, would elevate the Indian. That the policy adopted was not always the best, is what might have been expected of erring mortals'. Many of the wrongs suffered by the Indians have been despite the well-meant aims of the Department. But, from whatever source they may have arisen, the Indians have been the sufferers, and the only recompense we can make them is to give them the joy, the undying hope, imnarted by the Gospel. One other motive should prompt us to duty here; that is, the present strait of the Indian. His choice is between two alternatives; he must be elevated by means of a Christian civilization, or he must become extinct at no 'distant day. His fisheries are monopo- lized by others, and his hunting-grounds have 'been mostly destroyed. He can live but little longer by the chase. He never can become truly civilized with- out the entering wedge of Christianity. The pagan 420 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF religion is interwoven with all the relations of the Indian, and is in direct conflict with civilization. This false prop must be removed before he will lean upon the true one. Unenlightened and uninfluenced bj the Gospel, the doom of prophecy hangs, with fearful portent, over the Indian tribes: ''For the nation and kingdom that ivill 7iot serve thee shall loer- ish; yea^ those nations shall he utterly wasted J^ Isaiah Ix, 12. " I beheld, too, in that vision All the secrets of the future, Of the distant days that shall be. I beheld the westward marches Of the unknown crowded nations. All the land was full of people, Restless, struggling, toiling, striving, Speaking many tongues, yet feeling But one heart beat in their bosoms. In the woodland rang their axes. Smoked their towns in all the valleys; Over all the lakes and rivers Rushed their great canoes of thunder. Then a darker, drearier vision Passed before me, vague and cloud-like; I beheld our nations scattered. All forgetful of my counsels, "Weakened, warring with each other; Saw the remnants of our people Sweeping westward, wild and woeful, Like the cloud-rack of a tempest. Like the withered leaves of autumn !" Song of Hiawatha. Such a song was fitting to be put into the mouth of the wisest man that ever was given to the Indian tribes. But, looking hopefully into the scheme of redemption, we are encouraged by words of wisdom, MISSIONARY LIFE. 421 such as no fabled oracle lias ever uttered : " The Y.ilderness and the solitary place shall be glad for them; and the desert shall rejoice and blossom as the rose. It shall blossom abundantly, and rejoice, even with joy and singing: the glory of Lebanon shall be given unto it, the excellency of Carmel and Sharon, they shall see the glory of the Lord, and the excellency of our God." " Let thrones, and powers, and kingdoms, be Obedient, mighty God, to thee ; And over land, and stream, and main, Now wave the scepter of thy reign." 422 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF CHAPTER XXXI. LAKE SUPERIOR REGION-DESTINY-CONCLUSION This region is an interesting portion of our great and growing country. Rich in exhaustless stores of mineral wealth, and scarcely less so in its capabilities of enriching us in science and art, it opens a wide field for industry and enterprise, as well as for scien- tific research. But till recently it has hardly been known. The pearly waters of the vast lake, for ages on ages, had been shut in by dense woodlands and mountain ranges, hardly disturbed, unless by the gambols of the finny tribe and the birchen canoe, fanned by gentle summer breezes, or lashed to fury by the wild sweep of Boreas. But those days are numbered. The lake now bears on her broad bosom the schooner, with whitened sail, and echoes the puff of the steamer as she plows majestically the crested billows, bearing the fruits of commercial industry and thrift to destined ports. The wilderness, untrav- ersed but by the native and the trader, is now dotted with cabins of miners. The prowling of wild beasts and the savage war-whoop have given way to the wood- man's ax and the blast from the miner's shaft, which rends the air. The uncultivated forest is here and there turned into a 2;arden. Yillao;es bedn to lino MISSIONARY LIFE. 423 the wild shores and the rugged cliffs, and already the vision of crowded cities, with all the moving tides of commerce and fortune, begin to flit across the imagination as though they were reality. As it re- gards the geological structure of Lake Superior and the various phenomena laid open by scientific explo- ration and research, we must take little notice of them here, as not falling within the plan or aim of these unpretending pages. Scientific gentlemen, who Avere every way qualified for such a work, have be- stowed vast labor and much patient investigation on these themes, and the results have been given to the world as a rich legacy. These must be consulted by such as would study minutely the developments of the Lake Superior region. They may be found in the able reports of Messrs. Foster and Whitney. In lookinfj into the facts here detailed, no one will over- look our vast indebtedness to the late lamented Dr. Houo^hton, through whose influence and scientific la- bors, more than those of any other person, this re- gion was brought into favorable notice. Had he lived to consummate his own comprehensive plans, his country would have been greatly enriched by his contributions to science; but, mysteriously, he was suddenly removed from earth in the midst of his achievements and hard-earned fame, and the result of much of his labor perished with him. Although the first explorations of white men in this region are comparatively recent, still we are led back nearly two hundred years to the time . when 424 LIGHTS aKd shades of Jesuit missionaries, some of them learned, talented, and refined, and w'ell fitted for any station, traversed tlie Lake Superior region, and became missionaries amon^T the Indians. The names of Rene Mesuard, Claude Allouez, Claude Dablon, and James MarquettO) are embalmed in the history of our country as pio- neers into that, then especially, inhospitable clime. An interesting fact is given us as connected with those early explorations; that is, the evidences of the existence of native copper. In several places large bowlders of this mineral were found, some of them weighing a hundred pounds. This pure virgin cop- per was regarded by the Indians with superstitious veneration, and some of the specimens preserved by them were worshiped as gods. After New France had been ceded to the British crown, an Englishman by the name of Alexander Henry, who had escaped the horrible massacre of Mackinaw, headed a mining expedition, which was prosecuted for a time near the forks of the Ontonagon river. But the efibrt was ill-directed and soon abandoned. Up to the year 1844 no successful elfort had been made to develop the mineral resources of the country. Since that period the wonderful discoveries and the untold wealth which have been revealed have been published to the world. In those mining explorations a very interesting fact has been brought to light— the works of a rude people, who had been engaged in mining, certainly not less than four hundred years ago, probably much MISSIOXARiT LIFE. 425 earlier. Those evidences may be seen on Isle Roval, at Eagle river, at the Xorth-AVest Mine, and other places. But the most interesting discoveries of this kind were made at the Minnesota Mine, at the Onton- agon. Mr. Samuel 0. Knapp, the then intelligent agent of the Minnesota Mining Company, in the spring of 1848, laid open one of these ancient works. The following is an extract from Messrs. Foster and Whitney's Reports: ^'The depression was twenty-six feet deep, filled with clay and a matted mass of moldering vegetable matter. "When he had penetrated to the depth of eighteen feet, he came to a mass of native copper, ten feet long, three feet wide, and nearly two feet thick, and weighing over six tuns. On digging around it the mass was found to rest on billets of oak, supported by sleepers of the same material. This wood, specimens of which have been preserved, by its long exposure to moisture is dark-colored, and has lost all its con- sistency. A knife-blade may be thrust into it as easily as into a peat-bog. The earth was so packed around the copper as to give it a firm support. The ancient miners had evidently raised it about five feet, and then abandoned the work as too laborious. They had taken off every projecting point which was ac- cessible, so that the exposed surface was smooth.'' (Part I, page 159.) Proof of the high antiquity of these works is found in the fact that trees growing over these works are as aged as the forest trees around them. Messrs., 36 426 LIGHTS Ax\D SHADES OF Foster and "Whitney speak of a pine stump, thus situ- ated, "broken fifteen feet from the ground, ten feet in circumference, which must have grown, flourished, and died since the earth in which it had taken root was thrown out.'' Mr. Knapp counted, say they, *' three hundred and ninety-five annular rings, on a hemlock, growing under similar circumstances, which he felled near one of his shafts. Thus it would ap- pear, that these explorations were made before Colum- bus started on his voyage of discovery." (Ibid.) Ancient stone hammers have been found, in large quantities, in connection with these works. Those taken out of the Minnesota works exceed ten cart- loads, and weighed from five to thirty-nine pounds each. "A copper gad, with the head much battered, and a copper chisel, with a socket for the reception of a wooden handle, were brought to light." These I saw myself, in the possession of Dr. Hickock, of New York, in the summer of 1848. Messrs. Foster and AYhitney suppose that this ancient mining was performed chiefly with these stone hammers, with the aid of fire to soften the rock and separate it from the copper. All is involved in conjecture respecting who were those rude miners. The Indians of the country have no traditionary accounts of this matter. Our authors, quoted above, mention the fact, that copper rings, designed for bracelets, are frequently met with in the western mounds. And they more than intimate that these copper rings are " a strong link in the chain MISSIONARY LIFE. 427 of evidence to connect the ancient mining of this region v-ith the earth works of the Mississippi Yal- lej." (Ibid.) But with a simple statement of these facts we must leave the reader to his own speculations, respecting the people who, long ago, delved into the mines of Lake Superior, for hidden treasure. The high latitude of Lake Superior is proof that it can never be a resort for farming purposes. Fort Wilkins is in latitude 47° 27'. Point Kewenaw is less adapted to agriculture than the vicinity of Onton- afron or Grand Island. Yet all along the southern shore of the lake are immense bodies of rich alluvial land, timbered mostly with maple and birch, adapted to the growth of most of the staple commodities of the farmer. The season is short; but vegetation matures with surprising rapidity. The country is good for grazing — oats produce abundantly. Per- haps in no place can field peas be found to do betteV. Wheat has never been fairly tested. The only doubt is with reference to the deep snows of so long con- tinuance. When at Kewawenon, I planted some eight-rowed Michigan corn one season, which grew thriftily, filled well and matured. But this, perhaps, was an exception to a general rule. No great de- pendence can be made on corn-growing. The escu- lent roots grow, most thriftily, and produce abund- antly ; and they usually possess rare culinary prop- erties Farmers may make their avocation lucrative, so far as may be needed to supply the mines. But 428 LIGHTS AKD SHADES OF for general farming purposes, choice must always be made of farms where the growing season is longer, and the winters less severe. The fisheries and pineries must form an important item in the commerce of Lake Superior. Xow that the Ste. Marie's canal, a magnificent national work, so long demanded, has connected the great chain of lakes, a ready market will always be afforded for fish and lumber, as well as other products of the country. The Lake Superior region has many natural ad- vantages and attractions, to ofi*set against its rugged and forbidding features. Its" pure and invigorating atmosphere, pearly waters, savory fishes, and its pro- verbial healthfulness, must make it a chosen resort for invalids and a fond home for actual residents. The traveler will make it a resort Avho desires to study nature in her loveliest and wildest aspects. A vievf of the rising or setting sun on the wide lake, 01* as his rays kindle the landscape into a picture of loveliness, or are thrown in flecks of light against the perpendicular walls of sand-rock, which here and there form the bold shore, is indescribably beautiful. "What can exceed, in grandeur, the coruscations of light, as seen in the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights, of a Lake Superior sky? Mirage is often seen on the lake in the form of trees, islands, and landscapes. These representations are often beauti • ful, but by their sudden disappearance show that they are but optical illusions. I have often witnessed this phenomena on the water, and once on land. On MISSIONARY LliE. 429 my way to Sandy Lake one season, and -when T\ithin a few miles of the place, there appeared just ahead of us a beautiful little lake. I mistook it at first for Sandy Lake. But as we went on it vanished, and proved to be an illusion. The extreme length of a summer's day is a fact with which all voyagers are familiar. In the longest days, when the sky is clear, morning begins to dawn at two o'clock, and the light of day does not fairly disappear till ten o'clock at night. In this land, interesting in so many of its features, the hardy pioneer has made his home. The wilder- ness is no longer to remain a rugged waste, but is to be made tributary to human progress and the wants of man. Thus it is yet to answer the design of a beneficent Creator. The first settlers were a mixed multitude, representing several nations. The miners, chiefly English, German, and Irish. Many of the agents and managers of the mines, and persons in other branches of business, were our own countrymen. Many of those hardy and enterprising backwoods- men were rough in their appearance as the wild scenes around them. The absence of female society may account for this in part. But there were other reasons which produced carelessness and often reck- lessness in personal appearance and manners. In many places a company of bachelors, or widowers, for the time being, many of whose families were be- yond the Atlantic, were huddled together in mining cabins and shanties, free from the restraints of civil- 430 LIGHTS AND SHADES OF ized life — every one at liberty to do that which was right in his own eyes. The razor was seldom used. But it would hardly do to set this down as a relic of barbarism, at a time when many devote more atten- tion to the development of a mustache than to the development of the mind. Red flannel shirts were generally worn, and laboring men, when at work, even in the coldest weather, seldom wore a coat. The long winters afforded great opportunities for reading and study. These were well improved by some who were quite extensive readers. Many choice books were found in the libraries of intelligent min- ing agents. But many read little or nothing, and, with the majority of readers, the books that were eagerly devoured were novels and vapid and trashy literature. It is not wonderful, that with this state of things a generally confessed laxity prevailed in the morals of the great mass, that gambling, drunkenness. Sabbath- breaking, and kindred vices, found here a fruitful soil, on which to grow and thrive. But with all that has been in conflict with the real progress of the Lake Superior region, recent indica- tions foreshadow a proud destiny as at hand. Bound now to the great east, by a vast chain of lakes and rivers, soon to be connected by railroad to the vast west and the far south, instead of being a barbarous verge, fringing the outskirts of civilization, it is to become the center of eastern and western civilization, drawing from the moral and intellectual resources of MISSION ART LIFE. 431 both, and enriclimg both, in turn, by the fruits of in- dustry and enterprise. Her towns and cities must multiply — her population greatly increase, and the vast riches of her mines be rendered more and more available. Thank God, the institutions of the Church have already a footing among the people, and we trust a firm hold on their generous sympathies. Now is the time of planting. The season for fruit-gathering is at hand. Our schools and churches are destined yet to dot that land — the trees of the forest to "clap their hands." "The inhabitants of the rocks" begin already to " sing and to shout from the top of the mountains." The writer may be allowed, in conclusion, to ex- press his ardent desire for the continued prosperity of this interesting region; and that the institutions of the Church, as conducing to this result, may keep pace with the progress of the country. His prayer is, that enlarged prosperity may attend the missions among the Indians and the miners, and that the Church may yet have abundant cause of joy, and none of regret, at the expense and pains she has bestowed on the cultivation of this field. THE END. A. HNTE-^^ book:. Pik^^rB Cigljta auLT Sljaitcs of iilissionarjj Hiit OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. Lights akd Shades of Missioxart Life: Containing Travel?, Sketches, Inci dents, and Missionary EfiForts during nine years spent in the region of Lake Sa- perior. By Rev. John II. Pitezel, of the Michigan conference. Illustrated. Price, $1, uith the usual discount. This is a good book, well calculated to animate the Church with a more earnest zeal in the support of missions and the ministry with a bolder heroism in the more difliculLand dangerous passages of ministerial duty. God grant his bless- ing to accompany it, and may it have a wide field I — Pittsburg Chnstian Advocate. Among the remnant of the old and warlike Indian nations once inhabiting this country, our missionaries have labored to bring, if possible, a perishing race to the knowledge of Christ. To this holy work Mr. Pitezel devoted, at the call of the Church, nine years of active, laborious, and successful effort. lie tells his story in a practical, common-sense way. lie invents no fictions, varnishes no tales. Nevertheless, the Christian reader will find deep interest in tracing the every-day life of a missionary in such a vv^ork. — Ladies' Hepository. This is an exceedingly readable book, full of thrilling incidents; containing much valuable information in relation to a region and a people that are now at- tracting mvioh attention. It will be found a very agreeable companion for old and young during the long winter evenings. We bespeak for it an extended circulation. The mechanical execution Ls in the bestst^'le of the Western Book Concern, which, we confess, is saying a great deal, for in this respect Swormstedt & Poe have few equals, and no superiors. — Western Chrisiian Advocate. It is interesting to the general reader for the observations and facts in regard to the country, and to the members of his Church and all Christians, as portray- ing the sacrifices, hardships, discouragements, and successes of such a life in such a country and under such circumst^inces. — Mich. State Journal. The book will be found very interesting as regards the history of the country and the habits of the Indians remaining there. It contains several beautiful eu- gravings. — Lansing liep. Having enjoyed an acquaintance with brother Pitezel, and many others who . are now laboring with the Indians in the Lake Superior region, v/e were prepared to expect a book full of interest, and giving clear indications of industry and sound judgment. We are not disappointed. The book is valuable for its facts, for its opinions and suggestions. We hope it will have an extepsive sale. — U. O. Haven, D. D., Editor of Zion's Herald, Boston. It is an extraordinary narrative of labors, sufferings, and successes, varied by entertaining anecdotes and romantic adventures. Indian Ufe is abundantly illus- trated in it. — Clnnstia.n Advocate and Journal. The descriptions of Lake Superior country and scenery are finely written and are peculiarly attractive. — Kalamazoo Gazette. If you would settle, from calmly and truthfully stated facts, the power of grace to save red men — if you would discern the power of the cross — if j-ou would see '• the homes and haunts " of the original proud owners of these woodlands — if you would have your heart affected with convictions of dLnty toward a neglected peo- ple, then order " Lights and Shades of Missionary Life," by John H. Pitezel. — North- Western Cltristian Advocate. Resolutions of Miclxlgan and Detroit Conferences. The following resolution was adopted by the Michigan conference : Resolved, That we recommend to our people Kev. J, H. Pitezel's publication entitled " Lights and Shades of Missionary Life," and will encourage its sale in our charges. The following is a copy of the resolution passed by the Detroit* annual confer- ence: Resolved, That we heartily commend to oar people the book published by Rev. J.H.PitezeL