RAR.Y 
 OF THE 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 OF ILLINOIS 
 
 Wllltt
 
 i*^. .t k.

 
 S K E T C II E S 
 
 OF 
 
 THE COUNTRY, 
 
 ON TIIB 
 
 NORTHERNROUTE 
 
 FROM 
 
 BELLEVILLE, ILLINOIS, 
 
 TO 
 
 THE CITY OF NEW YORK, 
 
 AND BACK BY THE OHIO VJ2LLEY; 
 
 TOGETHER WITH A GLANCE 
 
 ATTHE CRYSTAL PALACE, 
 
 ^B^JOHT^E^^oJ 
 
 BELLEVILLE. 
 
 TEI>*TEP BY J. A. WILLIS. 
 
 
 
 1854,

 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 *>. The rapid growth and improvements of the United States, ar 
 y eiciting the admiration and wonder of the world. The popula- 
 tion in these States is increasing with more astonishing rapidity 
 than ever was witnessed before in any country on earth, and the 
 improvements keep equal pace with the increasing population. 
 These considerations induced me, last Fall, to travel over the 
 middle States of the Union, from the Mississippi to the Atlantic, 
 I took the Northern Route from Belleville, Illinois, to the city of 
 New York, and returned by the Ohio Valley. The general 
 growth and improvements of this section of the country, were 
 truly astonishing. Within a few years the whole face of nature 
 had been changed from a wilderness to a densely populated country. 
 The agricultural interest is flourishing here to admiration and the 
 improvements are, also, great and magnificent. 
 
 Canals and railroads are constructed, and being constructed, in 
 almost every section of the country, and large and wealthy 
 cities, teeming with population and business, were raised on the 
 same sites which, only a few short years previous, the savages and 
 wild beasts had occupied. 
 
 I also, on this journey, visited the Crystal Palace, in the city 
 of New York, and found it a spacious and magnificent institution, 
 equal to the present enlightened and progressive age of th 
 country. 
 
 The country, cities and improvements presenting themselves 
 to my observation, on this tour, were exceedingly interesting 
 to me, and, I believe, they are equally interesting to the public. 
 On this consideration, I have presented the following "Sketches 
 of the country." I have attempted to make these "Sketch- 
 es" the next thing to seeing the country itself. I have- ad' 
 hind rigidly fo fads, as far as they could be ascertained. I 8aj 7 ;
 
 as they do in an affidavit to a Bill in chancery, that tht fact* 
 stated in these "Sketches," from my own knowledge, are true, 
 and, those stated from the information of others, I telieve to 
 fre true. 

 
 KETCHBB OF THE COUNTRY- 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 BELLEVILLE. 
 
 Belleville is located with great propriety on a high, dry, and 
 beautiful section of St. Clair County, in the State of Illinois, and 
 is extended over an elevated tract of country on both sides of 
 Richland Creek. This city occupies the most elevated ground 
 between the Mississippi and Kaskaskia rivers, and is about the 
 same distance from either. Belleville is almost fourteen miles 
 from the Mississippi, opposite St. Louis, and is in latitude 38 
 deg. 35 min. north. 
 
 This city is fortunately situated on this high and undulating 
 surface, and is, moreover, entirely out of the influence of any 
 of the swamps, or stagnant waters of river bottoms. And, 
 withal, the water so bountifully furnished in every well, is 
 pure, clear and delicious. Nature has supplied her family in 
 this city with the best and most healthy beverage. 
 
 Under these fortunate circumstances, Belleville can boast of 
 being one of the most healthy cities west of the Allegheny 
 Mountains. It is not annoyed with the effluvia arrising from the 
 swamps and putrid marshes of the low lands; but the atmosphere 
 here is pure and healthy. 
 
 This city is not infested with those very annoying customers 
 known in the low lands under the odious name of Mosquitoes; 
 but the citizens of Belleville are permitted to enjoy their sleep 
 in peace. 
 
 Belleville is also fortunately located in a mild and genial cli- 
 mate. It is not visited in winter with the boisterous and cold 
 storms of the North, nor is it parched up in the summer with a 
 tropical sun, but it enjoys a climate that is pleasant, genial and 
 healthy. Citizens emigrating from the Alps or the Highlands 
 of Scotland in Europe, or from the mountainous regions of the 
 United States, settle in this city, and experience no sickness at 
 all, on account of the change of location.
 
 THB CITY Of B1LLITILL1. 
 
 .Belleville is also located in a vast region of country, where the 
 soil, for its fertility and productiveness, cannot be surpassed in 
 the United States. Moreover, the population far and near arc 
 possessed with an industry, energy, and American force of char- 
 acter, that are worthy of all commendation. The country around 
 this city, is the oldest in the State, and has become dense and 
 wealthy. This is another great element in the growth and pros- 
 perity of this place. 
 
 Belleville is built on an extensive and inexhaustible field of 
 stone-coal. The coal is of superior quality not inferior to any 
 that is found west of Pittsburgh and the shops and furnaces 
 may be so located in this city, that coal, direct from the pits, may^ 
 be cast into them, without any expense of transportation whatever 
 
 The transport ition of coal to any great distance to large furna- 
 ces, is a large item^in the expenses of the works. The gas 
 works, the su^ar refinery, and other large establishments in St. 
 Louis, no doubt, must expend twenty thousand dollars, or more, 
 each year, for the transportation of the coal used in their furna 
 ees. This sum would be saved in this city, which would be a 
 fortune in a few years. A failure of coal in Belleville never can 
 occur. There are also inexhaustible quarries of lime-stone in the 
 suburbs of this city. There are matny thousand perches quarried 
 annually, and used here in macadamising the streets, buildings 
 and curb-stones, and for all the useful and ornamental purposes 
 in which rocks can be employed, The business of stone-cutting 
 is carried on here in all its various branches, with great suc- 
 cess to those engaged in -it, as well as. to the public. Another 
 blessing, infe;ior to none other, which this city enjoys in common 
 with the rest of the State. 
 
 Negro Slavery does not, nor cannot exist in the State of Illi- 
 nois. This is the great secret of the unparalleled prosperity and 
 growth of the State, as well as the city of Belleville. 
 
 The recently established system of railroads has already inv 

 
 Of THK COU!TT*T, 
 
 pressed on the country, and particularly on the State of Illinois, 
 its great and important benefits. Railroads have done more rea$ 
 service to the United States than any other improvement ever in- 
 vented by man, since the age of steam. They are far be 
 team navigation, as the land is greater than the water within the 
 limits of the United States. The slow motion of the steamers 
 must yield to the almost lightning velocity of the cars. The cars 
 have now put behind the steamboat traveling, as much as the 
 steamboats laid aside horse-back traveling. The ancient system 
 and organization of commerce and business is exploded and par- 
 tially abandoned. 
 
 Commerce, under the railroad system, will, like the blood that 
 supports and invigorates the human body, reach every section, 
 and part of the country, and invigorate the whole community. 
 
 There will now be no inland or interior country, but all and 
 very part will be fronting a railroad, which will afford a speedy 
 and cheap communication to all parts of this extended Union . 
 We will hear no more of inland cities, or interior towns. Where - 
 ever the business of the country will justify it there will railroads 
 be built, and the towns and cities will then be on the great thor- 
 oughfares to all sections of this ocean-bound Republic. 
 
 The railroads have already done wonders for the State of Illi- 
 nois, and as much for the city of Belleville. An excellent and 
 substantial railroad will in a few months be completed, and the 
 cars running on it, from this city to the river, opposite St. Louis. 
 The road from Illinoistown to Alton will also soon be built. The 
 Charter has been approyed by the Supreme Court of the State, 
 and money is being procured to construct it. Then a complete 
 and continuous line of railroads will run from Chicago, by Spring- 
 field and Alton, to Belleville. This city will be made a common 
 centre, from which many branches of railroads will extend into 
 the country on all points of the compass. A road will be made 
 from BellevilU by Murphysborough to Cairo. Another to Rich
 
 TH1 CITY Or BBELBTILLE. 
 
 lieu, on the Central Railroad, and another to Terre Haute, Indi- 
 ana. The main trunk will supply the conveyance to the rivet 
 of all the business, and passengers, that the various branches 
 may transport to Belleville ; so that this city will be the common 
 locus of business and commerce of all these various roads. The 
 railroad from Chicago, passing by Springfield, Alton and Belle- 
 ville, to Cairo, will also be one of the greatest thoroughfares from 
 North to South, that will be in the western country. 
 
 The macadamized road, which is the best and most substantial 
 in the State, connecting the trade and travel of this city with the 
 river and St. Louis, has already done much to the advancement 
 of Belleville. It was, and is a great and important improvement 
 It now affords to all classes of land travel an easy, cheap and safe 
 conveyance. Plank-roads are also being made, projecting from 
 this city into the country, in almost every direction. One is fin- 
 ished for five miles out from the city, and the others will, it is 
 hoped, be completed within a reasonable time. These Plank- 
 roads will afford a safe, expeditious and cheap communication be- 
 tween the city and country. 
 
 It is not surprising that under all these natural and artificial 
 advantages, Belleville has so wonderfully increased within a few 
 years. Its population has increased four or five fold within that 
 number of years. It is estimated, at this time, to contain seven 
 or eight thousand inhabitants, and increasing every day. The 
 buildings and other improvements have increased in proportion. 
 About one hundred and fifty goocT and substantialiiouses were 
 erected in this eity during the last season. Nine-tenths of them 
 are made of brick, and are permanent and substantial. In al- 
 most all the city, the houses are of brick, which present a gay 
 and elegant appearance, but are also solid and durable. 
 
 During the last year, more than five millions of brick 'vereman- 
 *factured in this city, and almost all used in buildings; and, it i 
 confidently believed that ten millions of brick will be made and
 
 SXJETHXS OF fE COCXTKT. 
 
 used in this city during the present season. There is no better 
 clay for brick in all "this region round about" than is found in 
 this city. Wood is plenty and cheap, so that any quantity of 
 bricks may be manufactured in this place. 
 
 Belleville is extended over a large tract of country, and is tol- 
 erably well filled up with fine buildings. The Main street does 
 not fall much short of two miles in length, and all the whole way 
 is macadamized, except a small part at the east end. Along this 
 street are many stately and elegant buildings, that would do 
 honor to any city. The houses, many of them, on this street, are 
 three stories high, and made and finished in the most elegant 
 style of modern architecture. Some of the cross streets are more 
 than a mile long and also macadamized and embelished with 
 lofty and beautiful houses. In Hexel Bogle, which is a conspic- 
 uous part of the 'city, are likewise fine buildings, and the same 
 may be said of the south-eastern section of Belleville. This lo- 
 cality being so elevated commands a beautiful and extended view 
 of the city. This elevation is also studded with lofty, elegant 
 buildings, occupied by Judges, the Mayor of the city, lawyers 
 and others. 
 
 In the southern suburbs is the Belleville railroad Depot. Thert 
 is already a large and commodious warehouse erected there, and 
 many more buildings must be constructed for the accommodation 
 of the railroad business. This will be a railroad wharf, better 
 and more advantageous to commerce than many river wharfs. In 
 this section of Belleville is the flouring mill of Mr. Hinckley, 
 that is continually, universally, and uniformly smashing the corn 
 and wheat, except on Sundays. 
 
 On Richlaud Creek is located a large Factory and Foundry 
 of reapers, corn-shellers, threshers, mortice-cutters, fire-wood 
 awers, circular saw mills, plank-plainers, and other articles too 
 tedious to mention. 
 
 On the wet side of tbt Crtek is beautifully located ""Wast
 
 10 Till CITT Or BELLEVILLX. 
 
 Belleville," which is almost a city of itself. This section of tht 
 city of Belleville is handsomely situated on a high and pleas- 
 ant eminence, and contains within its own limits all the elements 
 of a prosperous community. It is blessed with a fine macadam- 
 ized street throughout the whole length. 
 
 On the south-west suburbs of Belleville is established an inge- 
 nious factory to remodel liquor. 
 
 In this section of Belleville is an extensive Distillery, and 
 on the east side of the Creek is the celebrated Harrison's Mill, 
 the largest in the State, and turns off fifty thouscnd barrels of 
 flour annually. 
 
 North Belleville is. a beautiful small town, neat and handsome. 
 It contains stores and many mechanic shops, and the largest and 
 most extensive Distillery, which manufactures annually twelve 
 or fifteen thousand barrels of whisky. At times are attached to 
 this Distillery, and that in West Belleville, four or five thousand 
 head of hogs, and herds of cattle, all fattening on the slop. 
 
 The public square in this city contains about one and a half 
 acres of land, and is surrounded with lofty and extensive build- 
 ings. Mr. Thomas is engaged erecting the most splendid Hotel 
 edifice in all Southern Illinois. It fronts nobly more than 54 feet 
 on Main street, Belleville, and extends one hundred and twenty-six 
 feet on High street. It will be four stories high and cost 
 twenty or thirty thousand dollars. 
 
 Many excellent Hotels and boarding .houses are established iu 
 this city, where the weary traveler finds rest, ease and comfort. 
 The old court house, clerk's office, and market house, which at 
 present stand on the public ground, as models of bad taste, will 
 soon be swept off by the progress of the age. 
 
 I would respectfully recommend to the citizens of Belleville, to 
 erect a monument on the public square, in honor of the noble and 
 gallant chieftain, George Rogers Clark, who, with a handful of 
 men, wrested Illinois from British dominion, in the revolution.
 
 
 
 PT THJ COUJTKT. 
 
 A factory of machines to sow wheat, is erected in this place. 
 This is a useful contrivance to drill wheat, and will, it is said 
 eause the earth to produce at least five bushels per acre more 
 than the old method of sowing wheat. On the east of this city, 
 rope-walks are established, that do a considerable business. The 
 cordage is all sold in this city, and ten times more than is manu- 
 factured is brought here and sold in this market. There is 
 no section of the country where rope-walks would do better than 
 in this city. 
 
 There are many extensive Breweries in this city, and all car- 
 lied on with great profit to the proprietors. There are about 
 three hundred and ninety two thousand gallons of malt lipuors 
 manufactured in this place annually, by these breweries. This 
 enormous quantity of beer and ale is consumed mostly in the 
 country and towns round the city. One single individual, Mr. 
 Stoltz, manufactured, during the last year in Belleville, two hun- 
 dred and forty thousand bottles of soda-water, and sold the liquor 
 for six thousand dollors or more. This article was distributed in 
 all the country and villages round about, as well as in this city. 
 Eleven hundred dollars were paid alone, in one year, for corks 
 for soda-water bottles. 
 
 Large factories of carriages are maintained in this city ; also 
 great quantities of harness ware and saddlery are manufactured 
 and sold in this place. The increase of this business is rapid 
 and certain. 
 
 Tne ordinary mechanics shops are numerous, and all do a good 
 business. A great quantity of ploughs, wagons, and other farming 
 utensils are manufactured here and sold to the citizens of the coun- 
 ties east of Belleville. The shoe and boot maker shops, black- 
 mith shops, watch makers are established in this city in great 
 abundance, and carried on with great industry. Much ingenious 
 machinery is located in this city. Mr. Medart has a carriage 
 bop with a_turning laithe attacked to it, wherein h* turn? thr
 
 12 THX CITY OF BELLEVILLE. 
 
 spokes of carriage wheels and carries in his mechanic- business 
 with singular ingenuity. 
 
 There are weaving, saw mills, and the pottery business car- 
 ried on in this place, with much success. Large and extensive 
 cabinet shops, manufacturing all sorts of furniture, are doing a 
 large and profitable business. 
 
 The above is only an imperfect sketch of the manufacturing oper- 
 ations of the citizens of Believille, but enough has been enumer- 
 ated to show that this city is already a considerable manufacturing 
 place, as well as commercial, and bids fair to be much greater. 
 
 There are many fine churches erected in this city, that do hon- 
 to their patrons, and, what is still much better, they advance the 
 cause of religion. The Methodist church is an elegant and finely 
 finished edifice. It is reared with beautful proportions, and its 
 majestic appearance, connected with the worship therein, makes 
 a lasting impression on the mind. The lower story is ap- 
 appropriated to the honorable and laudable purposes of a fe- 
 male academy. 
 
 The Catholic Society, which is also numerous in this city, have 
 erected a large and substantial church. It is the largest religious 
 edifice in this city. 
 
 The Babtist church stands a proud monument of the good taste 
 of its friends. It is erected on Main street, and presents a ma- 
 jestic and substantial appearance. It contains the city clock. 
 
 The Presbyterian church is a model of neatness and propriety. 
 It would do no dishonor to ary New England commuity. It has 
 a school in the basement. 
 
 The Lutherans have two churches in this city, wherein the 
 service is performed in the German language, and also the same 
 language is used in a German Methodist church? which is estab- 
 lished in this city. 
 
 The Affricans have two nice small brick churches; one for the 
 ists and the other for the Baptists,
 
 er xnx eovxTKY. IS 
 
 Most of these churches are adorned with elegant steeples 
 wherein bells are hung to admonish at proper times the citizens 
 by their solemn tones to lay aside worldly affairs, and to CMCI 
 into religious contemplation to rectify and purify their hearts. 
 
 A fine and capacious Jail is erected in this city. It is strongly 
 constructed, "from whose borne, no traveler ever returns," except 
 the Jailor unlocks the door. 
 
 Also a court house, as has been mentioned, stands on the pub- 
 lic square. This is quite an unpretending building, and has lioto 
 ricty only for its being greatly behind the age. 
 
 A tasty and elegant building is erected m this city, by the or- 
 der of Odd Fellows, and called the Odd Fellow's Hall. Tin's 
 edifice is a model of chaste architecture, and also does honor to 
 the founders. It is now occupied for the purpose of eduu 
 
 There are in full operation at this time, in this city, about 
 forty dry -goods and -other stores. A considerable busim, 
 done with the counties east of this city, as well as in the city and 
 county. There were about five hundred thousand dollars worth 
 of merchandize sold in this city the last year. This large sum 
 includes the sales of several drug-stores, cabinet warehouses, hat, 
 shoe, leather and harness stores, jewelry stores, and all others of 
 similar character. 
 
 The Southern Bank of Illinois being located, with a large capi- 
 tal, in this city, has given great facilities to commerce. It is 
 wisely and prudently managed by the President, Mr. Russell 
 Hinckley, and Directors, so that this institution, together with 
 fine crops and unparalleled health of the citizens, has enabled 
 the merchants of Belleville to transact the above named great 
 amount of business ; and, judging from the great sums of money 
 to be expen*d here, this year will be still better. Almost the 
 entire mercantile corps, that have done business in this city for 
 some time, have become wealthy, and many retired from
 
 14 TUB eitr OF BJCLLITILLI. 
 
 Education is not neglected. About 700 children under 21 
 years old ^attend the schools in this city, and great numbers re- 
 ceive instruction at the Sunday schools. 
 
 Capt. Case has, on the macadamized road to the river, eight 
 or nine omnibusses, running daily from this city to St. Louis, and 
 on occasions, many more are used for the extra travel. There 
 are more than one hundred passengers, on an average, daily 
 traveling in these omnibusses on this route between the two 
 cities. 
 
 Moreover, at least fifty wagons and teams start every morn- 
 ing on the macadamized road from this city to St. Louis 
 and are employed in the business of the city, exclusive of the 
 country. 
 
 There is a great spirit in this city for the culture of the grape 
 and the manufacture of wine. In the suburbs of the city are 
 two vineyards, or rather fields of the vine. One contains six 
 acres or more: the other five. Another large vineyard has been 
 established in this city. 
 
 These establishments have been in operation for some years 
 arid the grapes make excellent wine. The last season upward* 
 of fifty barrels of delicious wine, not inferior to much of the Euro- 
 pean wines, were made at this place, which were readily sold at 
 $1 50 per gallon. 
 
 The new vintry contains twenty acres of land, and has been so 
 recently established that no wine has been made on it yet. It 
 bids fair to be a profitable investment to the proprietor. 
 
 Adjoining the city on the north-west, is located a capacious 
 
 ana efficient woollen cloth and yarn factory. It contins at pres- 
 
 ent 150 spindles, which will be increased this- season to 300. It 
 
 tins looms, wool-carding apparatus, and many^ther kinds of 
 
 uicry to prepare the raw wool for ordinary uses. Ten 
 
 thousand pounds of rolls were made here the last year ; 5,500 
 
 vardoi' webbed jans, casinats, &c,, wcrt manufactured, and
 
 OF THE GOITJfTRY. IS 
 
 15,00 pounds of wool were spun into yarn, last year. Fifteea 
 hundred dollars worth of the fabrics of this establishment wer 
 sold in Belleville ; besides much beingf also sold at the factory , and 
 at other places. This factory is propelled by steam, and will b 
 greatly enlarged this year. 
 
 The cooper shops in this city are numerous and capacious. 
 Many thousands of barrels, of all descriptions, are manufactured 
 here annually, and the workmen are becoming wealthy by labor 
 and industry. 
 
 Also, there are many large candle and soap factories in this 
 city, all doing a good business. 
 
 A very ingenious machine, propelled by steam, and owned by 
 Thomas & Harrison, is in operation in this city, to cut the staves 
 for barrels. It cuts the staves almost as fast as they can be 
 counted. 
 
 The staves are exactly the same size, shape and dimensions 
 one with another, so that there is no trouble in manufacturing a 
 barrel from these staves. The talents of the Americans for in- 
 ventions are most extraordinary. 
 
 The mills of this city hav manufactured more than seventy- five 
 thousand barrels of flour the last year, the most of which was 
 transported to St. Louis. 
 
 The proprietors of these mills contemplate increasing their 
 business, so as to make one hundred thousand barrels of flour 
 this year. In 1840, the whole county manufactured only 2*2.000 
 barrels. 
 
 The distilleries in Belleville last year, manufactured about 
 eight hundred thousand gallons of whisky, and intend, this 
 year, to make at least one million of gallons. 
 
 Great quarmties of- lumber are sold in this city, and the trade 
 is increasing. One single yard has sold, in not much more than 
 six months, two hundred thousand feet of plank, and two hundred 
 thousand shingles.
 
 K> THE CITY OF BELLXVILLZ. 
 
 Great quantities of frc-sh meat have been sold arid used in this 
 eity last year. Gentlemen dealing in the following articles re- 
 port: That about 1,000 beeves were sold and slaughtered in this 
 city, last year. Average, 400 pounds each. 2./500 hogs aver- 
 age 200 pounds. 1,000 calves and 500 sheep. This great 
 number of animals were slaughtered in this city, during the 
 past year, and consumed. 
 
 A Public Library is established in this city, and kept in the 
 Odd Fellows' Hall. 
 
 The learned professions in Belleville, can boast of many em- 
 inent members. The Christian ministry in this city, is com- 
 posed of pious and learned divines, who would do credit to any 
 community. 
 
 The profession of the law has sustained a respectable standing 
 for a long series of years past, by an eminent bar in tljis city. 
 
 The medical faculty in Belleville will compare favorably with 
 any in the west. The members of the faculty are learned and 
 intelligent in the profession, and fully worthy of the public 
 commence. 
 
 There are four printing offices established in this city. The 
 Belleville Advocate dates its existence for a long series of years 
 past, and it has uniformly and universally advocated Democracy 
 since it first saw r light. It is a large and well conducted sheet, 
 and has a wide circulation. 
 
 Another is a large and respectable German paper, which ably 
 sustains Democratic principles.- 
 
 The St. Clair Tribune is a weekly public journal, edited with 
 ability, and has an extended and increasing circulation. 
 
 A Book Printing Office, conducted by J. A. Willis, is 
 also established in this city. 
 
 A daily paper, well edited and nicely printed, would flourish 
 well in Belleville. 
 
 The government of Belleville is conducted by a Mayor and
 
 ey tzr eetfKTKY. 17 
 
 four Aldermen, the latter representing the same number" of Wards 
 in this city. 
 
 The Circuit and County Courts, hold their sessions here. And 
 many Justices of the Peace, whose jurisdiction in most civil 
 matters, is up to one hundred dollars, have their courts open in 
 this city, for business, every day in the year, with the exception 
 of Sundays. 
 
 This city, in 1814, was first laid out, in the corn-field of Geo. 
 Blair, who gave it the name of Belleville. For many years it 
 experienced the log cabin state of existence, and remained sta- 
 tionary. The whole country, at that day, was poor and humble. 
 Forty years of progress, since 1814, has done wonders for tht 
 West. The opulent and populous city of St. Louis, in 1815, 
 contained only two thousand inhabitants. Belleville has cast off 
 forever its bee-hunting and back-woods appearance, and now con- 
 tains a.bout two millions dollars of wealth, in real and personal 
 property. 
 
 There is no place in the West that holds out more inducements to 
 emigrants of all the various descriptions, than does Belleville. 
 The property is now comparatively cheap. The situation is both 
 healthy and beautiful ; and the success in business, and, at last 
 a handsome fortune, is almost certain, by pursuing a proper 
 course of conduct. 
 
 Although the mechanics here are numerous and respectable, 
 and the carpenters and others here, have large shops, yet as many 
 more are needed to do the increased business. Double the pres- 
 number would find employment. 
 
 I scarcely know a single individual, who has pursued an hon- 
 est and industrious life, in any business whatever, for some years, 
 but that a competency, and even wealth itself, has rewarded him 
 for his labors. Many factories might now be established here, that 
 by proper management, would make the proprietors a fortune in 
 a few years.
 
 18 THE CITY Of BELL1TILLI. 
 
 Thos. J. Walker & Co. sold, in the six months past, 817,000 
 worth of agricultural machines; between $14,000 and $15,000 of 
 McCormiok's Reapers alone. 
 
 A factory to spin cotton yarn and weave cotton cloth, and make 
 calico also, would make a fortune for the proprietors in a few 
 years, in this city. The raw cotton could be shipped here 
 from the south, \vith small expense, and when the articles were 
 manufactured here, they would be sold without the expense of 
 transportation from the East to the West. 
 
 All the blessings of civilized society exist here, as they do in 
 the Eastern States, so that the operators in the factories here, 
 would enjoy as good society as they do in the old States, and the 
 fuel, provisions and living are so much cheaper in Belleville than 
 in the old Country, that the difference would be considerable. 
 
 The population of Belleville may be considered orderly, decent, 
 and moral, and have always had the good sense to reject all spe- 
 e'.es of fanatacism. They abhor the modern absurdity of "Spiritual 
 Rappings," and other such disgraceful nonsense. 
 
 There tire in this place, like all other free communities, vari- 
 ous views of the manner of observing the Sabbath. But each 
 class enjoys, in the utmost latitude, the freedom of conscience in 
 religious matters, which is one of the greatest elements of the 
 prosperity of the United States. 
 
 Another consideration is the rapid rise of property in the 
 West. An emigrant locating himself here, and obtaining some 
 real estate, would, in a few years, become wealthy by the in- 
 creased value of his property. 
 
 Judging from the past, it will be risking nothing to say that 
 Belleville, with all her natural and artificial advantages embod- 
 ied in her welfare, would, in less than five years, number twenty 
 thousand inhabitants. Almost every individual in business in 
 t-his city, no matter what his profession may be, is now 
 making preparations to increase hisbusinsss to more than this ratio.
 
 IKETCHI8 P THE COtVTKT. 19 
 
 This city has not received any exclusive legislation, and it ex* 
 pectsnone. It needs and feels thankful for the common blessing* 
 of a wise and free Government, and for the friendship and 
 commerce of its neighbors; but, after that, it depends on 
 the Lord and its own energies for its future growth end 
 prosperity. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE COUNTRY ILLINOISTOWJT. 
 
 The Northern Route, from Belleville to New York, passes 
 the great Western metropolis, St. Louis ; and the country be- 
 tween Belleville and St. Louis, almost 14 miles, is one of the best 
 improved and beautified sections of Illinois. One half is high 
 land, and the other is the far famed American Bottom, which is 
 exceedingly rich alluvial soil, almost two hundred feet lower than 
 the high lands adjoining. 
 
 The soil of the upland is excellent, and the country presents 
 farms, orchards and almost all the elegant and comfortable im- 
 provements that can be found in any country. 
 
 This section of the country, lying between the two above 
 named cities, being intersected by railroads and the macadamized 
 road, and being so healthy and beautiful, will," in a few years, 
 contain a dense and prosperous population. Citizens doing bus- 
 iness in the cities, will have their residences in this beautiful tract 
 of country, where negro slavery does not exist, and where there 
 is now moral and excellent society. 
 
 There are mines of coal discovered throughout this section of 
 country. 
 
 The American Bottom is the lowland of the Mississippi, and is
 
 JO 
 
 ailed the "American Bottom" from certain Americans, who set- 
 tled in it, near the present Harrisonville, in the year 1780. 
 
 This Bottom extends about one hundred miles on the eastern 
 shore of the Mississippi, from Alton to Chester. This Bottom 
 is about five miles wide, on an average, and is the strongest and 
 most fruitful soil, of the same quantity, in North America. If 
 all this bottom were well cultivated, it would produce, annually, 
 not much less than twenty millions of bushels of corn. 
 
 This Bottom is in a high state of cultivation at present, in all 
 tfeat region near the St. Louis market. 
 
 Immense quantities of stone-coal exist in the Mississippi 
 Bluffs, adjacent to this Bottom, and opposite Illinoistown, and 
 much of it is conveyed to St. Louis. 
 
 This coal trade commenced in 1823, and has been increasing 
 for these thirty years past. 
 
 The discovery of this coal was singular : A citizen of the Amer- 
 ican Bottom, discovered smoke issuing from the ground, for 
 weeks together, which attracted his attention. He saw the coal 
 in the Bluff on fire, and supposed it had caught from the dry 
 roots of a tree, that the prairie had set on fire. The fire had 
 communicated to the coal from the burning wood. 
 
 There is now a company organized and working, to drain and 
 improve this Bottom, opposite St. Louis, and, in a few years it 
 will be drained from Alton to Chester. A canal will be built 
 from one end to the other, running at the foot of the Bluff. This 
 will serve to drain the water from the low lands, and also to con- 
 vey the surplus products to market. 
 
 This Bottom is a region of alluvial soil, deposited here by the 
 floods of the Mississippi. The river has originally made this val- 
 ley to drain the excess of its waters to the ocean, and has changed 
 its channel in it, at long intervals, from Bluff to Bluff. Logs and 
 wood are frequently found, below the surface of the Bottom, and 
 there are many lakes, showing evident marks of the river onc
 
 QT fH 
 
 flowing through tliem. When the Bottom is drained and well 
 improved, it will be one of the most beautiful tracts of country in 
 the United States. 
 
 Illinoistown is situated on the shore of the Mississippi, opposite 
 St. Louis, and contains, in all its extended dimensions, six or 
 eight hundred inhabitants. This town is fortunately situated in 
 many respects it enjoys the advantages of both the river and 
 railroad commerce, and in it, also, art* located the depots of many 
 of the most important railroads in the West. Warehouses will 
 be erected in it, to receive both the freights from the cars and the 
 cargoes from the steamboats. 
 
 There are expended at this time in it, large sums of money by 
 the Railroad Companies, and much preparation is being made to 
 manufacture cars and locomotives at this point. It will rise into 
 a place of some importance. 
 
 In the eastern suburbs is a great cattle market, and large sums 
 of money are here exchanged for beef cattle and hogs. 
 
 Five miles below Illinoistown, is situated the ancient and ven- 
 erable village of Cahokia. This village dates its existence co- 
 eval with Philadelphia, in the year 1682 and stood then, with a 
 few other French villages, more than one thousand miles in ad- 
 vance of all other settlements of North -America. It is now fa- 
 mous only for its antiquity, and the peace and quiet of its in- 
 habitants. 
 
 A wire bridge will be constructed, in due course of time, from 
 Illinoistown across the Mississippi to St. Louis. It is practicable, 
 and the grand destiny of the West \vili require it. The noble 
 and splendid achievement of constructing a wire bridge over the 
 Ohio, at Wheeling, has settled the question. At no distant day, 
 the citizens of St. Louis will see the cars from San Francisco, 
 crossing over the Mississippi on this wire bridge, going to the 
 city of New York. 
 
 This is not chimerical, but will be a sober reality in a shor t
 
 22 CITT OF ST. LOUIS. 
 
 time. Uncontrollable circumstances have decreed the above, and 
 it is nothing more than carrying out me grand and noble destiny 
 of the United States. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE CITY OF ST. LOUIS. 
 
 On this tour we enter the city of St. Louis, which is, at the 
 present time, one of the greatest emporiums of the West. Occu- 
 pying almost a central position in the United States, and being 
 beautifully situated on a high and commanding country, fronting 
 the noble and majestic Mississippi, St. Louis is destined to be one 
 of the largest cities in America. It is not in the power of the 
 human mind to decide the location, but there will arise one or 
 more cities in the Valley of the Mississippi, that will rival New 
 Yord, London or Paris. 
 
 On the 15th of February, 1764, Pierre Ligueste LaClede 
 landed with his small Colony, on the bank of the Mississippi, 
 not far distant from the old market, and made the first settlement 
 in St. Louis. LaClede had exclusive authority from M. D Ab- 
 adie, Director General of Louisiana, to trade with the Indians on 
 the Missouri river, and, after examining the country on the west 
 side of the Mississippi, he very wisely selected the present site 
 of St. Louis, for the centre of his commercial operations. He 
 obtained some families from Ste. Genevieve, Fort Chartres and 
 Cahokia, and commenced with thorn the village which he called 
 St. Louis, in honor of the King of France. 
 
 LaClede, and all his Colony, were French, and perhaps for 
 many years after, no Anglo-American ever was seen in St. 
 Louis.
 
 8K.1TCIIBS O7 THE COUNTRY. 23 
 
 On the 17th of July, 1765, the French commander, St. Ange 
 de Belle Rive, landed in St. Louis, from Fort Chartres, in Illi- 
 nois, and ever afterwards, this town was made the capital of Up- 
 per Louisiana. After the transfer of Illinois to the English, in 
 1763, many of the French families left Illinois, and resided in 
 St. Louis, but the whole population of Upper' Louisiana, inclu- 
 ding St. Louis, St. Genevieve and other settlements, in 1769, 
 only amounted to 891 souls. 
 
 LaClede, as head of the Fur Company, built a large house 
 here, and several small store-houses, for the accommodation of 
 the Indian trade, and in the year 1770, there were forty houses, 
 all told, in St. Louis. 
 
 St. Louis increased in its population and wealth, in the com. 
 mon order of progress of that day, as a French village, until the 
 year 17SO, when it received a severe shock from the Indians and 
 British. 
 
 Before the warriors arrived, the attack was rumored, and the 
 inhabitants made some preparations for defence. 
 
 The town was enclosed with a wall of earth, sustained on the 
 outsides by pickets made fast in the ground, and was five or six 
 feet high. It started at the upper Fort, near the present Float- 
 ing Docks, went over the brow of the hill and struck the river 
 again, not far above the bridge on Second street. 
 
 Proper preparations for defence, were made within this fortifi- 
 cation, which saved the town. 
 
 In 1780, Dominique Ducherme,an Indian trader, made an at- 
 tempt to enter the Missouri river with his boat of merchandize to 
 trade with the Indians, contrary to the Spanish regulations. His 
 boat and goods were confiscated, and he himself narrowly escaped 
 with his life. He determined on vengeance against St. Louis, 
 and raised fourteen hundred Indian warriors, and the English 
 furnished some Canadians to assist him in the campaign, 

 
 24. THZ cur or ST. LOLIS. 
 
 they and the Spaniards were at that time at war with each other. 
 May 26th, 1780, the attack was made upon St. Louis, and many 
 citizens were killed and some taken prisoners. Some state that 
 there were sixty killed and 30 made prisoners. Dueherme was 
 satisfied for the wrong the Spaniards did him and he withdrew 
 with his warriors. This is called by the French L'Anne 
 de Coup. 
 
 St. Louis continued to increase in population, improvements 
 and wealth, and, in 17S8, ten large barges reached that village, 
 from New Orleans, which was very remarkable in that early day. 
 
 Inhabitants of St. Louis then cultivated a common field, west 
 of the village, and were also engaged in voyaging, trading with 
 the Indians and hunting, for a livelihood. 
 
 The citizens enjoyed that pleasant, innocent and happy life, 
 that all the other French villages of Illinois enjoyed. As it must 
 be recollected that the settlements on both sides of the river bore 
 the name of Illinois, and, as late as 1804, "St. Louis of Illi- 
 nois," was the marked distinction given to this town J>y the pub- 
 lic officers of Louisiana. 
 
 Under the Government of old Spain, St. Louis continued her 
 Indian trade and other pursuits, with a steady but slow progress. 
 It seems that there is a kind of fatality attending all the Spanish 
 possessions in America, but this village did some better than 
 most other Spanish towns. From its commencement there were 
 many talented and enterprising characters who settled in this 
 town, and gave it standing, enterprise and wealth. 
 
 St. Louis was rather stationary in its population, as, in 1799, it 
 contained only 925 inhabitants, and, in 1810, about 1,400. In 
 1818, it contained 3,500, and in 1821, 5,600. In May, 1821, 
 St. Louis had 652 dwellings, of which there were 232 of 
 brick and stone, and 419 of wood. For the most part, the 
 houses built by the French, were constructed of wood, and had 
 galleries or piazas entirely around them. Most of them have
 
 
 
 or THI ctrrwTRY. to 
 
 disappeared in the business parts of the city, except- one 
 Sangariette, on Main btieet, I clow tie old Market, anil,feiiaps, 
 a i'exv others. 
 
 St. Louis has always been fortunate, as being the seat of Gov- 
 ernment of the country, until its commerce, wealth and charac- 
 ter could sustain itself better without the Government than with 
 it. It has been the seat of Government of the country ever since 
 the year 1765, until about 1820,. when the seat of Govern- 
 ment was located at Jefferson City, on the Missouri river. Du- 
 ring all this time, the disbursement of the public money, and the 
 pay of officers, were done and performed in this place, wiiich 
 gave it wealth and standing that other towns did not possess. 
 And, moreover, the site is admirably situated on an elevated 
 country, above all inundations of the river, wiiich is a great ele- 
 ment in the rise and progress of this city. Tne first important 
 advance St. Louis experienced, was in the war of 1812, and nn. 
 mediately thereafter. 
 
 It was the head-quarters of General Howard, in this war, 
 which gave it notoriety and standing. The great number o,' 
 people visiting it in the war, and the disbursement of large suais 
 of money in it, gave to it wealth and character, that greatly ei 
 couraged emigration to it. 
 
 Tne country on both siJes of the Mississippi river, after the 
 war, also increased rapidly, and thvs St. Louis rose with tlie 
 country. 
 
 Tne cession of the country, in 1333, by France to the United 
 States, was unpopular to my o.vn knowledge ; as I have been 
 tolerably well acquainted with the rise and progress of St. Louis, 
 since the year 1800. 
 
 T: e citizens complained that they were sold like stock on a 
 farm ; but a very few years experience, under the American 
 form of Government, changed their opinion of the cession, 
 and they became the warm and devoted friends o/ t,h
 
 28 TUa CltTT 0F GT. X.OCI9 
 
 United States, from a short time after the cession to the 
 present. 
 
 William Henry Harrison, the Governor of Indiana Territory, 
 in 1804, came to St. Louis, and he and three United States 
 Judges, Griffin, Vanderburg and Davis, made a code of laws, in 
 St. Louis, for the Territory of Upper Louisiana, as it was then 
 called. Major Amos Stodardtook possession of the country for 
 tl.e United States, on the 9th day of Maich, eighteen hundred 
 and four. 
 
 Under the laws adopted by the Governor and Judges, a Court 
 was heli] in the same fall, 3834, in St. Louis, in an old picketed 
 Fort, near the intersection of Fourth and Walnut street, and was 
 called the Court of Common Pleas. This was the first Court 
 held in St. Louis, or in the territory, under the American 
 Government. 
 
 In 1809, St. Louis was incorporated and placed under the 
 government of trustees, who were elected annually. 
 
 The limits of the city then, were as follows: Beginning at 
 Roy's mills, on the Mississippi, thence extending sixty arpens 
 west, thence south on said line of sixty arpens, in the rear, until 
 the same readied the Barriere de Noyer ; thence due south to 
 Fugar Loaf; thence east to the Mississippi, and tnence up to the 
 beginning. A great part of the above limits was not occupied 
 by 1 uildlngs at that day. 
 
 For many years, and I presume, down to the American occu- 
 pa'i -n of the p'ace, St. Louis had three stieets only, running par 
 aUel with the river, and three crossing them. The principal, or 
 Main street, which has retained its name, Church street, which is 
 known at this day as Second street, and Earn street, which is 
 now called Third street. The streets running west from the 
 river, were called Tower street, street of LaPlace and Missouri 
 street. Tower street answers to Walnut street ; street of La- 
 Place ts the present Market street, and Missouri street is Ches-
 
 f HI eew3r**Y. 7 
 
 nut street, Main street extended considerably up and down 
 the rr. er, and it, with the other streets al:ove named, em- 
 braced all the village ior forty or fifty years after it was first 
 laid out. 
 
 The adjustment of the laud titles, in the territory of Mis- 
 souri, did much service to the country, and particularly to St. 
 Louis. 
 
 In 1806, a Board of Commissioners, appointed by the United 
 States, sat in St. Louis, and commenced the labors of the adjust- 
 ment of the land titles, which are not yet entirely settled. These 
 old claims oi land, have been a prolific source of legislation, of 
 litigation and of the support of lawyers, for the last fifty years, 
 and all of them are not yet adjusted. The annual average va'ue 
 of furs concentrate 1 in St. Louis, for fifteen years, en ling in 
 1804, was $203,740. 
 
 The first Legislature, whose members were elected by the 
 people, that was organized in Missouri, under the territorial 
 Government, convened in St. Louis, in the fall of 1S12, and sat 
 in an old house of Joseph Robideau, on Main street, between 
 Walnut and Elm streets. The Governer and Judges leg slated 
 bef r that perio 1 for the- Territory. 
 
 It is stated that Judge Carr erected the first Irick house in St. 
 Louis, in the year 1813 and 1814. 
 
 St. Louis remained without pavements in the streets, down to 
 the yeas 1818, when some rocks were put on their edges, on 
 Market street, between Main street and the river; and, in 1821, 
 the first brick pavement was made on Second street, opposite llo-jk 
 No. 52. The streets were almost impassible for the mud, le.oie 
 these pavements were made, as St. Louis, long before that time,' 
 did considerable! business, and the streets, in bad weather, were, 
 in places, quite impassable. 
 
 For a considerable distance, extending up and down, between 
 Main streut and the river, there was a bluff of rocks, in many
 
 
 
 2b VITT or *?. LOU:. 
 
 p'acesperpendicuW, thirty feet high, or more, and, about the 
 year 1S25 or 1S6, these rocks were commenced to be graded or 
 cut down lor material for luilding. In a few yeais after, 
 they disappeared, and spacious Louses were eieckd en t! eir 
 sites. 
 
 The first newspaper printed in St. Louis, was issued on the 
 12th of July, 1808, and edited by Joseph Charless. It was 
 called the Missouri Gazette. This paper has leen continued, 
 in various bands, through all the vicisitudes incident to newspa- 
 pers, :o the present tjine. 
 
 Its proprietors changed its name to that of the Missouri Re- 
 publican, which is its celebrated cognomen at this time. 
 
 It is edited and conducted with mxrkeJ ability ^id talents, by its 
 present proprietors and editors, Messrs. Chambers & Knapp. It 
 is amongst the lagest sheets published in the Union, and issues 
 thousands and thousands of its papers, daily, tri-weekly and 
 weekly. Connected with it, is a Book Printing Office and hook 
 binding establishment, and, in all the business of the concern, 
 there are one hundred and fifty human leings, men, women and 
 children, employed. A beautiful and elegant edifice is erected 
 on Chetnut street, to accommodate the concern, and it is filled 
 with steam engines, type and printing apparatuses; hands editors 
 and spectators, to overflowing. This luilding is large at the 1 ase 
 and high, towering to a pinacle at the top, with the flag of the 
 Union waving above it. It must have cost the proprietors 
 some eighty thousand dollars. The Republican is Whig in 
 politics. 
 
 In 1815, Joshuwa Norville established a paper in St. Louis, 
 and called it the Western Emigrant. In 1821, the next paper 
 was established there, by William Orr, Esq., who soon after 
 moved with his paper to Kaskaskia, Illinois. These were the 
 early papers of St. Louis. It is now well supplied with papers, 
 English, German and French. Nine daily papers are now issued
 
 KETCHES OF THE COT7KTRT. 29 
 
 in St. Louis ; eleven weekly and four monthly, besides several 
 that are issued tri-weekly and weekly from the offices of the 
 daily issues. 
 
 In St. Louis there are also many religious and agricultural pa- 
 pers established. 
 
 The establishment, and support of these papers by the commu- 
 nity, is the best evidence of the intelligence and healthy action 
 of the people. Public opinion, eminating from an intelligent 
 community, and aided and assisted by the free and liberal 
 discussion of an enlightened and intelligent press, is tht 
 greatest power, under divine influence, known to mankind. 
 
 Enlightened public opinion corrects all errors and governs the 
 world ; and the Press of this city is equal to the age enlight- 
 ened, liberal and intelligent; the corps editorial are generally 
 scholars and gentlemen, well deserving the high honors that are 
 paid to them. 
 
 It was doubted at first, by many, if a steamtr could master 
 the strong current of the Mississippi ; but the problem was solved 
 by the steamboat General Pike, on the 2d of August, 1817, as- 
 cending the Mississippi to St. Louis. This was the first steam- 
 boat that reached St. Louis, and was commanded by Capt. Reed. 
 Captain Armitage navigated the Harriet from New Orleans to 
 St. Louis, arriving on the 2d of June, 1819. She came up in 27 
 days, and was the first arrival from New Orleans. 
 
 Steamboat navigation of the waters of the Mississippi advanced 
 the west half a century, over the old keel-boat navigation ; and 
 the railroads, in their turn, will rival or surpass the steamboats, 
 as far as steamboats did the barges. 
 
 St. Louis was first laid out on the French style of all the Illi- 
 nois villages, with narrow streets and small blocks. They never 
 dreamed of t'.ie streets of this village ever being crowded. But 
 modern improvement, and the amount of business done, made it 
 necessary to enlarge the streets in the additions to the old town, 
 
 6
 
 30 THE CITT Or ST. JLOUIt. 
 
 and the new streets laid out are all wide, straight and elegant. 
 They are adorned with stately and magnificent buildings, that 
 show the taste, wealth and refinement of the city. 
 
 Some few years a.ter the cession .of Louisiana, in 1803, the 
 learned professions rose* into existence with great rapidity, and 
 also with great celebrity, in St. Louis. A number of young 
 and talented gentlemen of the legal profession, arrived in St. 
 Louis, and many of them remained there. Easton, Hemp-stead, 
 Carr, Pope. Wash and David Barton were among the number; 
 and perhaps some others. In after life, these gentlemen became 
 distinguished characters, and stood high in public estimation. 
 Mr. Tope, after a short residence in Missouri, settled and resided 
 in Illinois. Hon. John Scott, although he resided in Ste. Gene- 
 vieve, practiced law in St. Louis, in olden times ; so that he 
 might almost I e considered a resident of this city. These gen- 
 tlemen, together with the Judiciary of Missouri, and J. B. Lu- 
 cas, tl.e Chief Justice of the Court of St. Louis, gave the bar a de- 
 seivedly high standing and reputation for talent and legal 
 learning. 
 
 Others, equally distinguished and talented, were soon after 
 added to the legal profession of this city. John R. Jones, Ben- 
 ton, Guyer, Bates, Gamble, Lucas, McGiik, Joshua Barton, 
 Torn} kins, Spaulding, and probably some others, became mem- 
 lers of the bar of St. Louis, and were generally distinguished 
 and 1 eld in high estimation for their scientific and literary attain- 
 ments, as well as for a profound knowledge of their profession. 
 It is a rare occurrence, in any section of the United States, for 
 such a lest cf talent and extraordinary abiLty to be congregated at 
 any one bar, as then composed the profession of the law in 
 St. Louis. 
 
 Almost every individual of this extraordinary assemblage of 
 meia, held, or does hold, some high and dignified office in the 
 Government of the country.
 
 KJCTOHJEi OP TUX COUHTRY. 81 
 
 The Medical department was also well represented, by Doctors 
 Farrar, Walker, and many others ; ar.d tie Christian ministiy v.as 
 ably sustained by various eminent and learned Divines, amongst 
 whom shown more conspicuous than the rest, the Rev. Bishop 
 Dubourg, and the Rev. Jesse* Walker. These two gentlemen 
 were great and talented pioneers in propogating the gosfel to 
 the frontier population. 
 
 Bishop Dubourg was one of the most learned and talented 
 divines of the age, and \\ as lecogmzed as a scholar of gitat 
 learning and talents, throughout both Europe and America. 
 
 He was an eminent scholar, and wrote volumes enforcing the 
 princples of the Roman Catholic Churh, to which he belonged. 
 Mr. Jesse Walker was a high diernitary in the Methodist 
 Church, and planted in St. Louis the first Methodist Society that 
 to'; root in that city. 
 
 The learned professions, composed of such extraordinary char- 
 acters as above stated, gave great celebrity and standing to St. 
 Louis, not only on account of the learned professions, lut, as- 
 sisted much in giving the city a reputation generally, throughout 
 the country. ' and, c!c\\n to tl e jiefccnt tine, t. I ov.is enjoys 
 much standing and celebrity for the great and eminent men who 
 compose the learned professions of that city, 
 . Almost three hundred practicing lawyers reside in this city, and 
 "still they come;" and it is estimated that there are two 1 undred 
 physicians located within the limits of St. JLcuis. The Reveiei-d 
 Divines are also numerous and talented in this city, and have a 
 great duty to perform in keeping the citizens under the in- 
 fluence of Christianity. 
 
 The public have been surprised each year, for the last twenty 
 or more, at the uparallulod growth and improvements of St. Louis; 
 and for the last few years the astonishment has grown into 
 wonder and amazement at the extraordinary advances made by 
 tkis city,
 
 32 THE CITY OF ST. LOUIS. 
 
 In 1S33, St. Louis contained only GG94 inhabitants; and at the 
 close of the year 1853, therv are more than one hundred thousand 
 souls in it. The property assessed in St. Louis, in 1833, was 
 2 ; 000,000; now it is $39,397,186. - 
 
 The low estimate given to property ly the Assessors, is not 
 often half the true value, and I presume, the taxable wealth 
 of St. Louis is now more than eighty millions of dollars. 
 
 It is estimated that, for the last twenty years, the population 
 and wealth oi this city were within each five years doubled, and 
 if this place continues to grow in the same proportion, for the 
 next five years, it will contain two hundred thousand inhabitants* 
 and its wealth will he eighty millions of dollars. 
 
 In 1833, the tonage of loats, arriving at St. Louis, was 2,000 
 tons; now it is 27,000. During the same year, the amount of 
 imparts was not nure than $5,000,000, and now it is more than 
 $100,000,000. 
 
 Ti.e c ty receipts of 1833, were alout $2,744, from taxes, 
 and, in 1833 all the receipts into the city treasury, were 
 $1,124,468. 
 
 In 1833, the Watei-Woiks were just ccn.menced; I ut this year 
 the reservoirs to itain over 87,000,000 gallons of water, and 
 the pipes conveying it through the city, are alout thirty-five 
 miles long. 
 
 It is stated that, taking the lusiness of produce and groceries 
 generally, they Lave increased letween three and five millions of 
 dollars, this last year, over the preceding year. 
 
 St. Louis has also extended her limits in the same extraordi- 
 nary proportion". It stretches out on the river, including the 
 towns of Carondelet and Bit-men in its extensions more than 
 ten mile; ind is t ;ljral>ly well improved west, in sections, for 
 three or four miles fro.n the river. 
 
 It contains a great number of the most elegant and tasty build-
 
 
 er rnz eevxvmr. 33 
 
 ings, that would compare favorably with any in the Union. In 
 St. Louis, the scienc of architecture, like everything- else ia 
 America, is assuming a splendor and elegance that was unknown 
 to it in ancient times. The buildings in this city, and others in 
 the West, prove incontestibly the advance of the science. An 
 elegance and taste, united with utility, characterize the noble ed- 
 ifices ot this city. 
 
 There are fiity churches in this city, built under the- various 
 orders of architecture, and to suit the uses and accomplished tastes 
 of the founders. Tney stand a monument of the piety and wis- 
 dom of the citizens, and advocate, with divine eloquence, the res- 
 pctand gratitude due the Creator from all his creatures. 
 
 The Union Presbyterian Church is a tasty and elegant build- 
 ing, erected the last year, at the corner of Locust and Eleventh 
 streets, at a cost ef 850,000. 
 
 The Mercantile Library Hill is a splendid and beautiful edi- 
 fice, reared .on the corner of Locust and Fifth streets. It extends 
 304 feet on Fifth street, and 128 on Locust. There are five 
 store-rooms in the first story, and the second contains a very 
 large and well selected library, while the third is occupied as a 
 lecture room. Tiie third story will contain about eighteen hun- 
 dred persons. 
 
 Tiiis is one of the most laudable and useful institutions that 
 grace the Mound City. It is eighty feet from the street to th 
 cornice, and the ceiling in the lecture room is thirty-five feet 
 from the floor. 
 
 The old Court House is being remodelled and made almost dt 
 novo, as the lawyers would say. The old building, when it 
 was first erected, in 1827, was considered a splendid edifice for 
 the time and occasion, but the age of progress has almost out- 
 stretched progress itself. This new Court House will cost five 
 hundred thousand dollars.
 
 84 THl IY ST. LfcUIS. 
 
 Several new Hotels have been erected the last year, and more 
 arc contemplated. 
 
 There were thirty-six millions of brick manufactured in this 
 city the List year, and mostly put up into walls. 
 
 In this city there are 175 streets, 100 miles of paved side- 
 walks, 53 miles of paved streets, and 13 miles of sewers. 
 
 T:ie harbor at this city is being improved by erecting the Dyke 
 on the Illinois shore, which has done great service to the city. 
 At present there are two miles, or more of deep water adjacent to 
 the city, where boats may land at pleasure. 
 
 On the 1 Uh of November, 13 17, the first gas was burned in St. 
 L^ us. N ) v there are 1,107 gas lamps in the streets and public 
 plic?s, aril there are thirty-four and a half miles of gas pipes laid 
 in the city. 
 
 In this ciiy there are 790 earolle;! members of fire companies 
 anl fourteen cor/j? of the military. Tiiey are now orginized into 
 o.v> b'lUillioi anl a reghiunf. Soon there will be two regiments 
 of 1,03) iruii each. 
 
 At present there are twelve oscnpied school houses, and many 
 of them arespl.-iili I eJifi:es. In these structures many schools 
 arc taught, and four thousand children receive instruction 
 in them. 
 
 Tiie Lands of the city for the support of cdmatio-i, are worth 
 onem'.lijo.i of dollars, a:vl the pro.ved.s annually amount to S14,- 
 60D. T.ie further su:n of S2S.03J is rais ,; 1 by taxation, so that 
 812,030 are employed annually for the education of children in 
 this city. 
 
 There are many other private and public institutions of learn- 
 ing, in which many children receive the rudiments of education, 
 as well as a complete collegiate instruction. 
 
 Mr. Wyman, by his taleiits and industry, has established and
 
 maintained a high shcool in St. Louir, for many years. He lias 
 erected one of the most finished and tasty edifices for education, 
 in the city. 
 
 The State University and the Catholic College, loth large and 
 well organized institutions of learning, aie established m 
 this city. 
 
 In 1847 was completed a fine City Hospital, which, together 
 with the benevolent and useful institution of the Sisters of Charity, 
 affords the sick a comfortable home. 
 
 Many other Lumane and merciful institutions are erected for 
 asylums of the^iendless, and for unfortunate females. 
 
 In the vicinity of the city, the General Government has al- 
 most finished a spacious and splendid Marine Hospital. 
 
 In the south-western section of the city, stands the lofty and 
 towering edifice built and appropriated for a Medical College. It 
 is the first medical school established west of the Mississippi, and 
 it has kept equal pace with the growth and grandeur of the 
 West. This institution is dedicated to science in general, and 
 to the medical profession in particular. It is a proud m'oi:urr>ent 
 to the genious and energy of its founder. Its length is two fun- 
 dred and six feet and in width eighty, both wings are brick, 
 and the walls of the main building in. the centre, are eight 
 square, and built of stone. 
 
 On the top of the centre building rise a dome and spire of 
 considerable altitude, which gives the whole an air of gravity and 
 grandeur. All this large and magnificent edifice is arranged with 
 great judgment, to accommodate the various uses for which itv.as 
 erected. 
 
 The Library Hall is circular, in the main building, and fev- 
 enty feet in diameter. The Dispensary, in the lower story, is 
 of the same size. The lecture room is eighty feet long by fifty
 
 36 TK C1TT ST. LOUIS. 
 
 wide, and eapaUe of accommodating six hundred persons. 
 A museum is established in this institution, that is consid- 
 ered one of the best, west of the Mountains, or, perhaps, in 
 America. 
 
 All the energies and extraordinary genius of Dr. McDowell, 
 have been ass. duoualy employed, for years and years, to collect 
 from all] aits oi the earth, the great vaiiety oi' curiosities which 
 constitute this magnificent museum. Every one who enetrs 
 this sancfum of science, will admire and appreciate hoth 
 the extraordinary genius and exq^site taste oi its intelligent 
 founder. 
 
 In this Museum is exhibited the remains of an animal, the 
 Zou^ioio.i, that is a perfect 1 * museum itself. The bones were 
 found in Washington county, Alabama, where the deep ocean 
 once rooled its waves. 
 
 This animal when a:ive, was one hundred and twenty feet 
 
 long, and, judging by i s hetd aj d ee t vvas a monster of great 
 
 fero.ity and barbarity, amougSfroiLur aujiiiaki The species of 
 
 a lim ils o' .Vii.:h :t WAS a mjauer lias become, like tne rnam- 
 
 m,rt:i, extinct. 
 
 It was of the mammalia race, and is now placed by natural- 
 ists between the waale and seal. 
 
 It has been exhibited in almost all the great cities of Europe, 
 an I is now in the above Museum, for the inspection of the 
 curious. 
 
 All this Medical College, with all its departments to pro- 
 mote science and the medical profession, has been ibunJed and 
 established by the talents and ent-igy of a single individual, and 
 that, too, wit rim a remwkable s oit tune f> roar up such a gigan- 
 tic and rni^a:ii:e:i HHLturioa. 
 
 All the ramifications, including the Museum, cost not much
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 37 
 
 less than one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. Ten thousand 
 dollars alone, were paid for the Zeuglodon. 
 
 Dr. McDowell, at the proper season, instructs a great many 
 medical students, and delivers to them eloquent and scientific 
 lectures. 
 
 Scarcely any man ever did so much in so short a time, as ths 
 founder of this institution has done. 
 
 There is also another Medical College in this city, of great 
 reputation. It is under the management of Dr. Pope. 
 
 The commerce of the western waters was a great pillar in sus- 
 taining and advancing the growth and prosperity of St. Louis, and 
 although the rivers are the same, yet the railroads are commenc- 
 ing to do much business likewise. 
 
 Under these considerations, St. Louis is beginning to awaken 
 to her duty, in regard to railroads. Railroads three 'in num 
 ber whose termini are in this city, are in progress of construc- 
 tion. Forty miles of the Pacific are built west, and the other two, 
 one to the Iron Mountain and the other North-west from this 
 city, are under contract to build a part of theni. Also there ar 
 several in Illinois, verging to this city. One from the East, 
 by Chicago and Alton, will pass through Illinoistown, and thenc* 
 onto Cairo. 
 
 Two others from the East, the Brough and the Vincennseroadt, 
 will also terminate in Illinoistown, opposite this city. When all 
 these roads are completed, which will be in a short time, St. 
 Louis will have seven distinct roads converging to it. The road 
 South to Cairo and the Southern Atlantic, are greatly interest- 
 ing to this city. All the large "Western cities have projects of 
 roads South, and Missouri city cannot do herself justice to sit 
 till, and see the commerce taken from her, and heaped on '-.'Bi- 
 sections of the country. In self-defence this city must constrttet 
 the road to Cairo, and so on South, to enable her t compete vriik 
 tk other Western cities, in the Southern commerce. Some part
 
 tHE CITY OF ST. LOUIS 
 
 of the year, the Mississippi is obstructed, either with the ice or 
 low water, and St. Louis then, without this road, would be cut 
 off entirely from the Southern business. 
 
 This city is bound to exert her energies in the construction of 
 this road to Cairo and Nashville. 
 
 Whan all these seven Railroads are built and constructed, St. 
 Louis, thus together with the river navigation, will have extra- 
 ordinary facilities of commerce. 
 
 There are, also, ten different and separate Plank or Macada- 
 mized roads, connecting St. Louis with the country. 
 
 The mineral resources of the country South-west of St. Louis, 
 are great in iron and lead. The iron ore is strong and available 
 in the Iron Mountain and Pilot Knob. These mineral resources 
 of Missouri, add greatly to the growth and wealth of this mam- 
 moth city. 
 
 Almost all manner of factories of which the ingenuity of man 
 an conceive, have been established, within a few years, in this 
 ity, which is the best evidence of the growing prosperity of the 
 people. Foundrifts, and the fabrics of hard-ware, generally. are 
 enjoying a career of prosperity and profit, that surpasses the 
 most sanguine expectations of their proprietors. Ten years 
 since, only three foundries existed in this city, and at this time 
 there are more than twenty. The foundry and shops of Messrs. 
 Gaty, McCune & Co., cover almost two acres of land, and they 
 employ one hundred and fifty hands in their business. They 
 manufacture great numbers of steam engines, and almost all ar- 
 - icles composed of iron and brass. 
 
 Clark, Rutherford & Co., are, also, manufacturing largely in 
 this business. Messrs. Kingsland & Co,, with many others, are 
 profitably engaged in the manufactory of steam-engines, and 
 iron foundry- ware generally. Kingyland & Co. work one hun- 
 dred and fifty hands. 
 Messrs. Palmer & Robertson own a lar^e establishment in the
 
 SKETCHES OF TH COUKTRY. 39 
 
 Southern section of the city, and work about one hundred and 
 fity men. One and a half acres of land are occupied by this 
 shop, and 31,000 feet are covered with fine, stately brick build- 
 ings, containing the various workshops and other necessary append- 
 age. They have manufactured, the last season, fire locomotives, 
 and are preparing to do a heavier business in this branch of 
 their trade. 
 
 They deserve great credit for establishing, on the premises, 
 medical attendance on the sick workmen in their employ, with- 
 out expense to the laborers. A medical shop is located on the 
 premises, with a competent physician to call on all the workmen 
 every morning. 
 
 A stove factory is carried on largely by Mr. Filley. He em- 
 ploys one hundred hands, and manufactured 1,500 stoves last 
 year. He intends to increase his business nearly double thif 
 year, which will then be the largest stove manufactory in the 
 United States. 
 
 The Rolling Mills of Messrs. Chouteau, Harrison & Valle, are 
 remarkable for their capacity and for the adaptation of so much 
 complicated machinery into various operations. 
 : This establishment covers almost fifteen acres of land, inclu- 
 ding all the appendages. A row of eighteen brick houses are 
 erected on the premises, which will contain thirty familiei. The 
 building of the Rolling Mill is 256 feet by 130. There are 34 
 furnaces in operation ; 350 men and boys are employed in the e- 
 tablishment, and 39 wagons or carts. 
 
 The average amount of fuel consumed is 1600 bushels of coal, 
 daily, and the establishment turns out weekly an average of 225 
 tons of manufactured articles, bar-iron, boiler-plates, nails, 
 spikes, &c. 
 
 The furniture factory of Charles Marlow, is extensive and 
 does an immense business. The building is 60 feet front by 
 160 deep, and is four stories high. He works about 7
 
 40 THE CITY Or ST. LOUIS. 
 
 and can make 150 bedsteads and 50 tables per week. He run* 
 15 turning-lathes, and is preparing to put up ten more. Ileuses 
 four circular saws, and five boring machines. To use a cant 
 phrase, we might say on the whole, that "he bores with a largt 
 auger." 
 
 The Star Candle and Soap Factory of Win. Riggs '& Co., 
 does an exceedingly large business. They employ SO hands,and 
 manufactures articles in their line for more than half a million of 
 dealers. 
 
 There are many carriage, buggy, and wagon factories in 
 this city. One, of the many, I will mention, belongs to Os- 
 borne, Camp & Co. They employ about 75 hands, and turn out 
 from all the departments articlts manufactured, to the amount of 
 $100,000 annually. 
 
 The factories of saddlerj, harness and trunks, ar numerous 
 and extensive. Mr. Grimsley & Co., manufactured articles last 
 year to the amount of $175,000, and sold them in this city. They 
 employ one hundred and twenty hands, and are increasing thc-ir 
 business to meet the demands of the public. 
 
 It is estimated that, in all these establishments of saddlery, &c., 
 there art employed about 450 hands, and manufacture articles, 
 in all, to the amount of nearly a million of dollars. 
 
 The St. Louis Steam Planing and Sawing mill, is an unparal- 
 leled establishment, owned by Messrs. Wade, Stille & Co. It is 
 stated to be the largest factory in the United States. It can plain, 
 tongue ani groove eight thousand feet of lumber in one hour, and 
 slit tt n thousand feet in a day. They are capable of making 
 thirty doors, five hundred lights of sash and twenty pairs of 
 window blinds, each day, and they intend to double the capacity 
 of this branch of business next spring. 
 
 This has cost $60,000, and work sixty or seventy hands 
 constantly. 
 
 There are thirty six breweries in this city, producing tack, en 
 
 I
 
 KETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 
 
 on average, 6, 000 barrels per annum, which will amount to 81,-, 
 080,009, at So per barrel. 
 
 Only two distilleries exist in this city, making 817,000 barrels 
 of whisky annually. 
 
 Nineteen flouring mills are established in St. Louis, which man- 
 ufacture* 475,076 barrels per annum. 
 
 There is a great number ef saw mills in this city. These 
 mills bought 29,636,808 feet of logs, and sawed 23,695,544 feet 
 of boards, and 7,875,500 feet of laths, last year. 
 
 Messrs. Ladew & Co., have in complete operation a large 
 foundry for type and furnish all the West with that article and 
 presses, paper, &c., excellent and well finished. 
 
 Messrs. Belchers' Sugar Refinery is one of the largest estab- 
 lishments in the United States. At this refinery the sugar con- 
 sumed is 20,000 tons or forty millions of pounds, and is worth, 
 when refined, two and a half million of dollars. They employ in 
 the business, on an average, more than five hundred hands, and 
 consume three hundred thousand bushels of coal per annum. The 
 capacity of this establishment now can consume 30,000 tons of 
 sugar annually, and find market for tke same. Large and sub- 
 stantial buildings are erected for this concern. One building is 
 240 feet by 80, and six stories high. Fire-proof warehouses, 
 200 feet long by 125 wide, four stories high, are erected for tlit 
 use of the works, and everything is of the same extraordinary 
 proportions. Messrs. Belchers own the ground and buildings, 
 which are worth more than one and a half million dollars. 
 
 An artesian well has been constructed by these gentlemen ; 
 they have pierced the earth about 2,300ft. Solid lime-stone rock 
 was found for the first 1,500ft, and water from the well but not 
 pure. They are continuing to bore with a steam engine and 
 four men, almost day and night. The success of this wall is 
 
 3
 
 CITY OF ST. LOUIS. 
 
 much interesting to this section of the West; as more will be 
 made if this effort is successful. 
 
 One of the most splendid establishments in St. Louis, is the 
 Shot Tower and Works, owned by Messrs. F. Kennett, 
 Simonds & Co. The Tower is 175 feet high, and built of 
 brick. There are many large and spacious buildings erected 
 around the Tower, so that the whole presents an imposing 
 appearance. The factory consumes, in the year, about five mil- 
 lions of pounds of lead. 
 
 This material alone, costs 300,000 dollars per annum. All 
 the various sizes of shot are manufactured here ; adapted to shoot 
 either snow-birds or Buffaloes. 
 
 Three theatres are established in this city, which are not the 
 tenth of the places of amusement, and fashionable resort of the 
 citizens in the evenings. 
 
 At least ten markets exist in the city, which are supplied with 
 all the necessaries of life. 
 
 Excessive energy and almost perpetual locomotion of the citi- 
 zens of this city require a great number of carriages. In 1844, 
 Messrs. Case & Wells started the first omnibus enterprise. The 
 Company now own 425 horses and mules, and employ 150 men 
 in their business. A capital of $140,000 is invested in this 
 coneern. 
 
 Much wealth having accumulated in this city within a few 
 years past, and the flood of travel to it still increasing, has caused 
 the erection of many new hotels. Among the magnificent public 
 houses recently established, are two that deserve attention. One 
 is erected on the corner of Walnut and Second streets, and is 150 
 feet long by 80 wide. This edifice is reared with the most beau- 
 tiful proportions of architecture, and is six stories high, with a 
 Waemcat under the whole building. It is a paragon of archi
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTBY. 
 
 43 
 
 tectural beauty, and produces a favorable impression of the taste 
 and liberality of the proprietor, Mr. Taylor. 
 
 The other is the new hotel of John Rice, Esq., standing 
 "proudly eminent" on Fourth street, above Olive. Beautiful 
 marble, with the most exquisite workmanship, adorns and em- 
 belishes the front of this edifice, and gives it a caste of Oriental 
 splendor. This fashionable hotel is so sumptuously and elegantly 
 furnished and decorated, that the sojourner might almost believe 
 that he had entered the Elysian Fields, and had left the cold old 
 step-mother, Earth. 
 
 In this vicinity, the marble buildings so called attract great 
 attention for their beauty and fashion. They were erected last 
 year, out of fine, white marble, and are carrying out the great 
 and grand destiny of the Mound City. 
 
 A beautiful and splendid edifice was erected last season, on 
 the corner of Fourth street and Washington Avenue, and is known 
 as the "Verandah Hall." It is 150 feet long and 100 wide 
 and the hall is capable of containing sixteen hundred persons. 
 Concerts, lectures, and such public assemblies, are intended to 
 occupy this magnificent Hall. The elegant paintings of the ceil- 
 ing, and the rich and luxurious finish of this saloon, rivet the at 
 tendon of the spectator, and the effulgence of its beauty dazzles 
 and bewilders him. The commendations of the public are due 
 the founder, Mr. W. McPherson, for his taste and liberality in 
 constructing this splendid edifice. 
 
 Commerce increased surprisingly in St. Louis, in the last few 
 years. All the imports of articles, the last year, into this 
 city, and those manufactured here, are as follows, to wit: 
 Barrels of Flour, 737,500 
 
 Tobacco, nhds., 10,102 
 
 " boxes, 10,528 
 
 Hemp, balei, 63,350
 
 44 THE CITT tP ST. LOUIS. 
 
 Lead, pigs, 452,218 
 
 Wheat, bushels, 1,077,427 
 
 Corn, sacks, 459,192 
 
 Oats, " 464,662 
 
 Whisky, bbls., ,51,207 
 
 Bale Rope, coili, 58,497 
 
 The above leading articles will exhibit a general idea f tht 
 great business of the year just closed. 
 
 The importation of Groceries wa3 60,774 hhds 
 
 Barrels, 13,993 
 
 Boxes of Sugar, 40,257 
 
 Bags " 53,534 
 
 Bbls. and hhds. Molasses, 64,554 
 
 Bbls. of Syrup, 889 
 
 Bags of Coffee, 104,467 
 
 Much lumber business is transacted in this city. Last year, 
 60,786,350 feet of sawed lumber, were disposed of in this city, 
 30,462,70 shingles, the same of laths, and 22,748 posts, were re- 
 ceived and disposed of last year. 
 
 The money matters of this city are, like the business, in a 
 healthy and sound state. 
 
 In 1852, the Chamber of Commerce say, that the amount of 
 exchanges sold during the pait year, are estimated at $20,- 
 000,000. 
 
 The Bank of Missouri is located in this city, with a capital of 
 SI, 200, 000. During the last year discounts and exchanges, 
 both together, made by this Bank, amounted to $11,935,704. 
 
 A great portion of the statistics rtlative to St. Louis, I ob- 
 tained from the Missouri Republican, edited by talented gentl- 
 men, residents of this city, whose situation enabled them to ascer- 
 tain the facts they stated. 
 
 Tk population of St. Louis is of the most heterojeneHi char-
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTBY. 45 
 
 acter lhat ever assembled together. Almost all the natives of 
 the Earth are represented in the Mound City, The predomin- 
 ant character here is Eastern, natives of the United States ; 
 nevertheless, there are many others from the South. There 
 is about one-half of the population emigrants from Europe, and 
 their immediate descendants. Emigrants from Europe stand, in 
 the descending proprotion, as follows: Germans, Irish, English, 
 Scotch, French, and Italians. 
 
 Not many natives of Norway or Spain, are colonized her*. 
 
 Some few Mexicans are located here, and some of the de- 
 scendants of the colored races of Africa. 
 
 The original inhabitants of this city being French, a goodly 
 number of the Creoles are resident in it, but they are not so nu- 
 merous as the Americans, Germans, or Irish. 
 
 The citizens of St. Louis are intelligent, and possess that en- 
 thusiastic and exceedingly energetic character, that forms the 
 dominant trait of the American people. It seems, at times, they 
 are excitable and impulsive. Much enthusiasm often prevails on 
 occasions of Kossuth's speeches and Spiritual Rappings. Le*tures, 
 also, often inflame the public mind, and thousands attend these 
 meetings. Unwise and imprudent lectures are sometimes deliv- 
 ered on subjects calculated to excite and irritate the audience, 
 rather than instruct them, and harmonize them. But reflection 
 and "second sober thought," restore the people to themselves 
 again. 
 
 In this city, at this time May, 1854 are convened an ex- 
 traordinary number of medical gentlemen, from all parts of the 
 United States. It is supposed that this is the largest Medical Con- 
 rention ever assembled in America, and composed of tht most 
 learned and scientific physicians in the Union, The great 
 and laudable object of this Convention, is to raise, elevate and 
 dignify the useful and noble platform of the Medical profession. 
 
 Judging from every indication, of the rise and progress of th
 
 46 THE MISSISSIPPI RITER. 
 
 West, and of the whole Union, St. Louis, in twenty years, will 
 contain one-half million of inhabitants. Causes which have pro* 
 ducedsuch an extraordinary change in the West, and in this city, 
 as well as in others throughout the country, still exist, and in all 
 human probability, will continue to exist, for many years to come. 
 In resources of mineral, agricultural and mechanical wealth, the 
 country is only commencing to be developed. Population is in- 
 creasing rapidly every year over the preceding year, and why 
 not all these advantages continue, and St. Louis number one -half 
 million of citizens ? All the Valley of the Mississippi will then 
 contain fifteen or twenty millions of industrious, happy people, 
 and the other cities will increase in proportion to St. Louis. 
 Chicago will, at that time, contain one million of souls, and the 
 whole country will then be assuming that grand and noble des 
 tiny that God and his peculiar people will achieve. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 MISSISSIPPI RIVBR. 
 
 Taking the Northern Route from St. Louis to New York, tht 
 travel embarks on the Mississippi and asct nds this river twenty- 
 two miles, to Alton. 
 
 No stream on earth waters so large and so fertile a region of 
 country as the Mississippi does. It rises in the lakes of the 
 North, and pursues a southerly course for 3,160 miles, and enters 
 the Gulf of Mexico, in latitude 29 North. It is the great re- 
 ceiver for all the waters of the great valley, embraced bet ween tht 
 Allegany and Rocky Mountains, and is appropriately termed
 
 SKETCHES or THE COUNTRY. 47 
 
 an "Inland Sea." This great river passes through various cli- 
 mates, from the frozen North to the sunny South, and thereby en- 
 ables the inhabitants of its shores to exchange the products of the 
 different climates to the accommodation, comfort and happiness 
 of the citizens. 
 
 All the aggregate length of the Mississippi and its tributaries, 
 is fifty-one thousand miles. Inlets of the river are 50,514 miles, 
 and the outlets 486, making the above extraordinary length of 
 the rivers of the West. It is a rare occasion for water to flow 
 out of a river as it does out of the Mississippi, towards the Gulf. 
 
 Many of the tributaries are grand and noble rivers. The Mis- 
 souri, Ohio, Tennessee, Illinois, Arkansas, and many others, are 
 large streams, but, when they are all united, they form the most 
 grand and majestic river on the Globe. 
 
 At long intervals, this great body of water bids defiance to it 
 banks and then tiie Mississippi extends its waters for many miles 
 from bluff to bluff. Its current then sweeps on with such a might 
 and velocity and power, that scarcely anything can resist it. In 
 this state, the Mississippi might be justly called a terrific "In- 
 land Sea." 
 
 In the year 1772, is the first extraordinary flood in the river, of 
 which any account has reached us. Next w r as in the year 1784, 
 and the next in 1844. One side wall of Fort Chartres was 
 washed down by the flood of 1772, and the English abandoned 
 the Fort. Much injury was done to property and people in tht 
 low lands, by the last great inundation. 
 
 Most ordinary high waters in the Mississippi, occur below 
 the mouth of the Missouri, by the rise of that river, towards the 
 middle of June. Snows melting in the Rocky Mountains cause 
 this high water in the Mississippi which reaches us as above 
 stated. But when the rise in the other rivers happens about this 
 fcmt, then it is that the great freshets occur.
 
 43 TUB MISSISSIPPI RIVER. 
 
 In these floods the current, in ordinary sections of the river, 
 flow about four miles per hour; but, in many parts, the water run* 
 with much greater velocity. 
 
 Ordinary floods of the river, I presume, are about twenty feet 
 above common low water, and the river, for 2,000 miles above hi 
 mouth, would average some less than one mile wide. Many 
 Islands exist in it, and, where they are numerous, the river ii 
 much wider. 
 
 Above the mouth of the Missouri, both it and the Father of 
 Waters, are generally frozen over, from six weeks to two month? 
 each winter, and between the mouth of the former and the mouth 
 of the Ohio, the river is frozen over about one fourth of the win- 
 ter. And between the mouth of the Ohio and New Orleans, it 
 is very seldom that the ice interrupts the navigation of the river. 
 Ice running in the river, and often frozen over, impedes 
 the navigation for several months, the more as the river ex- 
 tends North. 
 
 Ordinary classes ot steamers most always find a sufficient 
 depth of water below the mouth of the Ohio to the ocean; but, 
 above that point, the low water often interrupts the navigatiom 
 of the river with common large boats. Appropriations of money 
 by Congress have been made, on many occasions, to improve the 
 navigation of this river, ar!d much good has been done, by re- 
 moving the snags and sawyers ut of the stream. 
 
 In olden times, hard tales were told by the boatmen, of th 
 sawyers rising and falling, some ten or fifteen feet, in the Mis- 
 sissippi. The strong current often forced large trees, rooted into 
 the mud near the shore, to' rise and fall several feet, dashing and 
 bounding in the water. All these sawyers have been cut off or 
 pulled up by the General Government. 
 
 For two thousand miles, or more, up the river from the ocean 
 larje bottoms on out side or the other, aad in tktai
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 49 
 
 swamps and lakes more or less existed. Before the country 
 was so densely settled, wild fowl of all descriptions lived a life 
 of luxury in these lakes and swamps. In the spring ducks, 
 geese, swans and other fowls, flew north and returned in the fall; 
 but now we see not many more of them. Muskrats, also, exis- 
 ted in great abundance in these marshes. 
 
 In olden times, rushes and cane grew along the sandy banks 
 of the river, and on the islands, in great quantities and remain- 
 ed green all winter. They were very nutritious food for all gra- 
 niverous animals, and kept them fat all winter. All these pio- 
 neer blessings have disappeared, and in their places, farms, vil- 
 lages and cities are built. 
 
 From the mouth of the Ohio, north, the bluffs of the river in 
 many places, are composed of perpendicular lime stone rocks, 
 rising one or two hundred feet high, and often resembling an- 
 cient towers, and fortifications. River scenery in many sections 
 is beautiful and picturesque. In one part of the Upper Missis- 
 sippi, the river is expanded, and forms a most beautiful lake 
 Pepin. This sheet of water is clear, transparent and charming. 
 On the western shores of this lake, the rocks rise several hun- 
 dred feet perpendicular, and present bold outlines of nature. It 
 was off one of these high rocky bluffs,that a young squaw of the 
 Sioux nation of Indians leaped down, and destroyed herself, as 
 Sapho did thousands of years before. It was for the same cause, 
 love unpaid, that operated upon the Greek victim. The lead- 
 ing traits of the human character, are the same in all countries 
 and at all times. 
 
 In this magnificent river, there are only a few obtructions to 
 its navigation for 3000 miles or more. St. Anthony Falls pre- 
 sent a barrier, which will be, in time, improved, and the river 
 made available. Rock river and the Des Moines Rapids, in the 
 river, are also some obstacles to its commerce; but the General 
 
 9
 
 50 *HE MISSISSIPPI 
 
 Government has commenced to remove these obstructions. On 
 the Lower Mississippi, the water is higher than the adjacent 
 country, made so by alluvial deposits, which is the reason 
 that so many rivers flow out of thfe "Father of Waters," towards 
 the Gulf. 
 
 In this lower section, the "Coast," as it is called, of this great 
 river, is the most beautiful country in America. Levees are made 
 to confine the water in the river, and the adjacent country is in a 
 fine state of cultivation for hundreds of miles along its banks, 
 which presents such rural beauty, as cannot be surpassed in the 
 United States. 
 
 It is strange, that the color in the waters of the Missouri, is so 
 different from that of the other rivers in the West. It is a kind 
 of yellowish color, made so by the yellow sand floating in it. It 
 colors the Mississippi from its entrance into that river to the 
 Gulf, and the waters do not mix for thirty or forty miles, below 
 the junction of the two rivers. Moreover, the current of the Mis- 
 souri is stronger than the rivers near it, and it gives the 
 same impetus to the Mississippi, below the mouth of that river. 
 
 De Soto, and his companions, in May 1541, were the first 
 white men who saw the Mississippi. It was some where near 
 the present city of Memphis, in latitude 35 North, where these 
 Spaniards crossed the river. Marquette, Joliet, and a few 
 Frenchmen, were the next white men who sailed on this river. 
 In June, 1673, these last explorers entered this great river thro* 
 the Wisconsin, and sailed on the Mississippi down to the Ar- 
 kansas. 
 
 Singular paintings were made by the Indians, on a smooth, 
 pendicular rock on the margin of the Mississippi, near the pres- 
 ent site of Alton. The deep water of the river washed the base 
 of this rock, which stood nearly opposite the Penitentiary build- 
 ings in that city. About midway, between the water and the
 
 SKETCHES Of THE COUNTRY. 51 
 
 top of the cliff, which was very high, were painted two monsters, 
 as the ancient writers called them,but moderns named them "The 
 Piasa." I saw them almost fifty years ago, and what most sur- 
 prised me, was the place they were painted on the rock, being so 
 far, both above the water, and below the top of the cliff. Some 
 kind of scaffolding must have been erected, on which the painter 
 stood while the work was making. Red paint was the most 
 common color used; but some green and black were also used, if 
 I do not forget. 
 
 Father Marquette, in his first exploration of the river, in 1673, 
 gives the following description of them: "They are as large as 
 "a calf, with horns on the head like a deer, a fearful look, red 
 "eyes, bearded like a tiger, the face somewhat like a man's, the 
 "body covered with scales; and the tail so long, that it makes 
 "twice the turn of the body, passing over the head and down be- 
 "tween the legs, and ending at last in a fish's .tail." 
 
 Many bullets were shot at them by the modern Indians, from 
 the river; where the marks of the balls were visible when I saw 
 them one was much larger than the otfier. Many years since, 
 the rocks and those paintings on them, were removed and the 
 rock used for buildings in Alton. We might say to the natives, 
 as Cardinal Wolsey addressed his "former greatness:" "A long 
 farewell" to the greatness of the Indians and their paintings. 
 
 In the spring of the year 1780, Gen. George Rogers Clark, 
 by order of the State of Virginia, erected on the east bank of 
 this river, a few miles below the mouth of the Ohio, at May- 
 field's Creek, a Fort, which he called Fort Jefferson. The sol- 
 diers occupied the fort for some time, but were forced to abandon 
 it. 
 
 Within a few years, the weight of population of the United 
 States will be in the Valley of the Mississippi, and the country 
 densely settled from mountain to mountain. Then it will be that
 
 52 THE CITY OF ALTO*. 
 
 this great river, located in the centre of the Valley, will have 
 more commerce and wealth floating on it and its tributaries, than 
 oil the other rivers on the earth besides. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE CITY OF ALTON. 
 
 The city of Alton is gravely situated on rising ground fronting 
 the Mississippi, in Madison county, Illinois, and extends back 
 from the river for some considerable distance. Alton is entirely 
 out of the reach of the high floods of the river, and commands a 
 beautiful view of the Mississippi and country. It is located at 
 the northern extremity of the American Bottom, and three miles 
 above the mouth of the Missouri, in lattitude 38 55' north. 
 
 This city, like most others in the State, is located in the midst 
 of an extended region of country, that cannot be surpassed for its 
 fertility of soil, and the population in the country, far and near, 
 is becoming both dense and wealthy. It enjoys all the natural 
 advantages of the West, which, together with the intelligence, 
 activity and industry of its citizens, must, in a short time, raise 
 it in rank and standing, with other Emporiums of the West. And 
 although the Railroads may diminish the trade and commerce On 
 the rivers to some extent, nevertheless, the business on the west- 
 ern waters will always be great and profitable. 
 
 Alton is favorably located near the junctions with the Missis- 
 sippi, of many of the finest rivers for commerce in North Amer- 
 ica, and enjoys thereby thousands and thousands of miles of river 
 navigation.
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 53 
 
 Although nature has done much for Alton, yet the citizens 
 have also done much for themselves in building up a fine, pros- 
 perous and business city. Alton, in all its extended divisions 
 and principalities, upper, lower and middle town, contain ten or 
 twelve thausand inhabitants. Most of them emigrated from the 
 old States, with a fixed determination to make an ample compe- 
 tency, and a respectable standing in community, and most of 
 them have realized their anticipations. 
 
 Alton was laid out in 1818, by Rufus Easton, who gave it the 
 name. Within afew years, as the Valley of the West commen- 
 ced to develop its immense resources, and the State of Illinois 
 commenced also its unparalell course of population and wealth, 
 Alton has also grown, and realised the anticipations of her most 
 enthusiastic friends. 
 
 Many elegant and beautiful, public and private buildings are 
 erected in this city. Friends of religion have not neglected their 
 duty in this place, and have erected twelve superb and splendid 
 church edifices, which are are living monuments of the conviction 
 of the people in the existence of a God the immortality of the 
 sow/, and the necessity of religion. Three Methodist, two Pres- 
 byterian, two Baptist, two German, one Episcopalian, one Uni- 
 tarian and one African, are the number of Churches and de- 
 nominations contained in this city. A neat and elegant Catholic 
 church was burnt a few months ago in Alton. The Catholic so- 
 ciety of that city, and others, are preparing to erect one of tho 
 largest and most splendid Cathedrals in the State. The build- 
 ing is to be one hundred and eighteen feet long, by seventy-five 
 feet wide, and finished in the most approved style of architecture. 
 This cfiurch, when completed, will not only be an ornament to the 
 city, but what is vastly preferable, it will be a place of divine 
 worship, to instruct man in his duties to God and to his fellow* 
 men. 
 
 10
 
 54 THE CITY OF ALTON. 
 
 Alton deserves much commendation for the particular, and 
 devoted attention given to education. There is no community, 
 perhaps, in the State, to the number of its population, that be- 
 stows more of their time, talents and money to promote education, 
 than they do in Alton. There are many large and capacious 
 school edifices erected, and liberally sustained by the public in all 
 parts of the city. The pupils to six schools, receive their 
 education as free as the air they breathe. Many other 
 private elementary schools are kept up in the various sections of 
 the city; so that all the children are provided with the means of 
 obtaining the rudiments of an education. 
 
 On the first of May, this. year, a general jubilee of the juve- 
 nile pupils of the various schools of Alton, came off, and they 
 enjoyed, with great zest, the amusing ceremony of crowning the 
 May Queens. Although one school, of one hundred scholars, 
 were absent on account of the death of one of the scholars, yet 
 between five and seven hundred attended the exercises, which 
 gave general satisfaction to a great concourse of citizens attend- 
 ing. 
 
 Higher branches of scholastic education are also amply provi- 
 ded for; so that Alton may be considered, in future, the Athens 
 of Illinois. 
 
 "The Alton High School," is an institution of much celebrity, 
 and character, It is under the charge of Professor Washington 
 Leverett, A. M., who is a gentleman of great scholastic attain- 
 ments. This institution of learning has eighty students in it. 
 
 "The Upper Alton Academy," is an institution, also of de- 
 served reputation and worth. It is conducted by Prof. Warren 
 Leaverett, A. M,, who is also a gentleman of science and learn- 
 ing. "The Wayland Institute," for young ladies, is a promising 
 and rising Academy. It is under the guidance of Professor 
 Kimball. This gentleman is an accomplished scholar, and wor-
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 55 
 
 thy of such delicate and important trust confided in him. 
 
 The ShurtlefF College, is an institution known, and celebrated 
 thoughout the country, not only for its extraordinary dimensions, 
 but also for its worth and efficiency. It is beautifully situated 
 on an elevated surface, apart from the noise and bustle of the 
 city; and in such situation where the students enjoy that pure 
 and holy devotion to science and philosophy, that is so highly 
 appreciated by genius and talent. 
 
 This College was endowed by Dr. ShurtlefT, of Boston, with 
 the liberal advance of ten thousand dollars. This sum, together 
 with other means, enabled the friends of this institution, to erect 
 an edifice for the purpose of education, that is, not only a great 
 honor to the founders, but of essential and lasting benefit to the 
 community. The building is large, capacious, and four stories 
 high. It contains sixty rooms, or more; besides those appropri- 
 ated for recitations, lectures, &c. It is composed of brick, and 
 is finished in the most elegant and chaste style of Grecian 
 architecture. 
 
 This instutionis called the ShurtlefF College, in honor of its 
 founder; and we might say of Dr. ShurtlefF, what the great Eng- 
 lish bard said of Cardinal Wolsey, in relation to the instution of 
 learning at Oxford, England: "Though unfinished; yet so fa- 
 "mous, so excellent in art, and still so rising; that Christendom 
 "shall ever speak his praise." 
 
 There is instituted at Alton, an Antiquarian Society, which is 
 both large and respectable. 
 
 There are established and well sustained, three Printing 
 Presses, in Alton two in the American language, and one in 
 the German. The Alton Telegraph and Courier, are both public 
 journals edited with decided ability , with a widely extended circula- 
 tion. The Courier issues daily, about three hundred and fifty 
 copies, and about twenty-seven hundred weekly.
 
 56 THE CITY OF ALTON. 
 
 The Telegraph does the same amount of business, and per- 
 haps more. It issues, also, tri-weeklies. The efficient and 
 manly support which these papers receive, is the best evidence of 
 the intelligence of the community. 
 
 The Courier is a large establishment, costing G. T. Brown, 
 Esq., the editor and proprietor, a large sum of money. The 
 press is the largest size of Hoe's patent, and it alone cost $3,700. 
 The Telegraph is ably edited by Messrs. Bailaich & Baker. 
 There are also, in this city, a large Job Office, and two Book 
 Binderies. 
 
 The learned professions in Alton, are ably sustained by a host 
 of scientific and accomplished scholars. Nine Lawyers, eight 
 Ministers of the. Gospel, and ten physicians, grace their respec- 
 tive professions in Alton. 
 
 There are three large and commodious Hotels in the city, 
 amongst many others not quite so large. All these houses are 
 kept by experienced landlords, whose pleasure it is to make their 
 guests comfortable and happy. 
 
 Four extensive Livery Stables are established in this city, in 
 which are contained good horse markets, and all the arts and 
 mysteries of "horse swapping" are carried on in these horse 
 theatres. 
 
 In all the various branches of industry and business, this 
 city enjoys an unparalelled prosperity. More than two hun- 
 dred substantial houses have been erected the last year in Alton, 
 and preparations are making to increase that number this season. 
 These buildings are mostly csnstructed of brick and stone; and 
 many are three and four stories high. More than twenty large 
 and elegant store houses were built here last season, six were 
 three stories high, six two stones, and the rest one story. 
 
 Brick, to the amount of ten million, were made here, and laid 
 up in walls last year, and more than that great number will 
 be made here this year.
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUXTRY. 57 
 
 Alton is deserving the praise and commendation of the public, 
 for her extraordinary, and unparalelled exertions in the construc- 
 tion of Railaoads. This city, with an iron will, and a kind of 
 fixed obstinacy of purpose, has triumphed over various and many 
 obstacles, and has the honor of constructing the first Railroad 
 from the Mississippi, extending with other roads, to the Atlantic 
 cities. This was the great disideratum, the 'Philosopher's Stone,' 
 to connect, by railroads, the "Inland Sea," with the main Atlan- 
 tic Ocean and Alton has the 10th of Sept., 1852 first achier- 
 ed the great work. 
 
 Immediate on the construction of this road, new life, energy 
 and activity, was infused into all the various branches of busi- 
 ness, and property doubled its former value in one year. 
 
 Since that period, this city has been engaged in the construc- 
 tion of another great improvement the road from Alton to 
 Terre Haute; which is completed 18 miles from Alton, and the 
 balance will be in less than one year. And two others one 
 from Illinoistown to Alton, and the other from Jacksonvil le to 
 this eity , are being constructed. When these four roads are 
 completed, Alton will enjoy communications by them all, to the 
 Atlantic cities, north, east and south. These roads, together 
 with the great Father of Waters, present to Alton facilities of 
 commerce rarely equalled in any -country. 
 
 An excellent Plank Road is constructed five miles, extending 
 from Alton to the town of Godfrey, which is a great convenience 
 in connecting the town and country together. 
 
 Manufactures and commerce keep equal pace in Alton, with 
 the unparalelled progress of the West. Within one year past* 
 the various factories have more than doubled their previous capac- 
 ities and efficiencies in this city, and still the demand for manu- 
 factured articles, exceeds the power to supply them. 
 
 Great numbers of reaping, threshing, rakers and grass-cutters
 
 58 THE CITY OP ALTON". 
 
 are manufactured in the upper and lower divisions of Alton. 
 
 In thesa various shops, several hundred workmen are employ- 
 ed, and a great amount of the most useful and substantial farm- 
 ing utensils are turned out. 
 
 N. Hanson employs about fifty hands, in his large and exten- 
 sive machine shop. It has been increased recently, double its 
 former size and capacity; and builds and delivers to the public, 
 between 175 and 200 machines of Pitt's patent Separators, dur- 
 ing the year. 
 
 A large factory is also carried on in Alton, by Stigleman, 
 Johnson & Co., for the construction of steam-engines, and saw 
 mills. They employ 45 or 50 workmen, and manufacture in the 
 year, 40 or 50 engines and $aw mills. 
 
 Tomlmson & Co. , are largely engaged in the construction of 
 railroad cars, and make in the year, from 100 to 150. They 
 employ 50 hands or more in this business. 
 
 A machine shop and foundry, are employed by the Chicago 
 and Mississippi Railroad Company, with a great many workmen 
 and do a large business. 
 
 Messrs. Reads, are engaged in an extensive factory of Read's 
 harvesting and grass-cutting machines, and employ fifty hands, 
 or more. 
 
 Another large shop is engaged in Alton, in manufacturing 
 steam boilers, and almost all articles made of wrought or cast 
 iron. 
 
 Mitchell & Oarnier, manufacture in the year, great quantities 
 of flour. Their mill is propelled with great power, and manu- 
 factures two hundred barrels of flour per day, when forced to 
 exert its entire capacity. Also, is attached to the concern, a 
 distillery; that makes 40 or 50 barrels of whiskey in the twenty- 
 four hours. They consume five or six hundred bushels of corn 
 per da}-.
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 69 
 
 S. & P. Wise & Co., also work a flouring mill of extraordi- 
 nary power, and capacity in this city. They manufacture about 
 200 barrels of flour per day, when "all things work together for 
 the best." 
 
 JBruner & Brother, own and carry on another large flouring 
 steam mill; and also grind corn. 
 
 M. W. Carroll, owns and conducts a large factory of Sadlery 
 anc Harness-ware. He employs about 40 hands in his shop. 
 
 G. D. & L. B. Sidway, have also an extensive factory ofH^r- 
 ness, Sadlery and Trunk business, and work about 40 hands. 
 
 In Alton are four large and efficient Stone-ware manufacto- 
 ries, and one of the common earthen-ware. These factories are 
 carried on with great success, and utility to the country. This 
 stone-ware is manufactured and burnt, some of it, into hard and 
 durable pipes, to conduct water under ground, with as much fa- 
 cility and success as iron pipes, and with the tenth part of the 
 cost. Alton is famous throughout the West for its potteries. 
 
 The Lime factories of Alton, are also celebrated throughout 
 the entire length and breadtn of the Mississippi, from the Falls 
 of St. Anthony to the Gulf of Mexico. Great quantities of ex- 
 cellent, pure lime stone exist here, which enables this city to 
 burn lime for the supply of many markets. The enormous quan- 
 tity of six thousand barrels of lime are manufactured each month 
 in the year, and the demand and the means of supply are daily 
 increasing wood is cheap and plenty so that Alton can furnish 
 lime to almost any amount. 
 
 In the vicinity of Alton, nature, with her other manifold bless- 
 ings, has deposited "never ending" mines of Stone Coal; and the 
 "ways and means," railroads, &c., are being made to convey 
 great quantities to the city. At tHe present time, there are about 
 2000 bushels ot coal, per day, sold to boats on the river, and 
 1200 for private uses in the city.
 
 60 TUB ClTt tfF AtTON. 
 
 A great universal and general Railroad Depot, is about to be 
 erected on the bank of the river, to accommodate the public busi- 
 ness and travel on land and water. This great Depot is to be 
 constructed, so that steamers and cars can exchange passengers 
 and freight, without the intervention of drays, porters, cake sell- 
 ers, spiritual rappers, dogs, mud holes, and the like. 
 
 Alton is blessed with an excellent harbor. Nature supplies 
 the citizens with deep water, and almost a perpendicular bank to 
 th.e river; and at the wharf, last year, 1818 steamboats arrived, 
 exclusive of the packets to St. Louis. 
 
 Many of these boats were New Orleans steamers, and con- 
 veyed great quantities of the staple articles of Illinois to the 
 lower Mississippi. 
 
 In May, 1853, this city was honored with being made a port 
 af entry, and our respected citizen, the Hon. Judge Martin, ap- 
 pointed surveyor of the port. Since that period 6 r 078 tans of 
 railroad iron, and more, were entered there. 
 
 A great intercourse and business is done between this city and 
 St. Louis. The average number of passengers per day, between 
 those cities is 210, and the freight conveyed by the packets, alone 
 from this city to St. Louis, in the year, is astonishing: 
 
 Barrels of Pork, 3,981, 
 
 do Beef, 490 
 
 Bbls. and tierces of Lard, 2,660 
 
 do do Tallow, 320 
 
 do Hams and Pork, 1,685 
 
 Casks Hams and Pork, 1,2S7 
 
 Bbls. Flour, 27,003 
 
 do Whiskey, 7,860 
 
 Sacks Wheat, 42,390 
 
 do Oats, 57/543
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 61 
 
 Bbls of Lime, 7,928 
 
 Head of Hogs, 10,436 
 
 do Cattle, 794 
 
 Empty Barrels, 16,148 
 
 do Kegs, 7,055 
 
 Sacks Bran, 10,628 
 
 The above are some of the staple articles shipped in one year, 
 1853, from Alton to St. Louis, in two packets. 
 
 From the most reliable information I can receive; produce, to 
 the amount of $3,259,398, was exported from Alton, last year. 
 Under the free Banking system, many solvent Banks and 
 monied institutions exist in this city. 
 
 The receipts of wheat last year, were 225,883 bushels. Of 
 corn, 303,221 bushels and 297,916 bushels of oats. Hay is 
 becoming an important article in commerce 2,256,902 pounds 
 were received at this point last year, and 27,000 head of hogs, 
 and 3,900 head of cattle were slaughtered and packed here last 
 season. 
 
 Lumber is in great demand throughout the country ,and a cor- 
 responding increase is found in the market. Such is the bless- 
 ings of free trade 10,000,000 feet of lumber was received last 
 year, at Alton, and 5,000,000 shingles. 
 
 The numerous mercantile establishments in this place, are 
 doing a profitable, and most of them, a heavy business. There 
 were goods and wares, and merchandise sold, wholesale and re- 
 tail, in Alton during the last year, to the amount of one million 
 of dollars, and will be this year, perhaps one and a half million 
 sold. The mercantile interest is increasing in this city in full 
 proportion with the other business. 
 
 In this city is located on the bluff rising from the river, the 
 State Penitentiary. It is large, and built on the system of the 
 State Prison at Auburn, New York. Convicts, to the number of 
 11
 
 62 THE CITY OP ALTOX. 
 
 two hundred and seventy-seven, are confined there, and should 
 be, or are, probably repenting of their sins. Much good and 
 solid work is done on the splendid stone buildings and walls of 
 this prison, and it is well managed by Col. Sam'i. Buckmaster, 
 and Trustees.- 
 
 Christianity and civilization argue strongly for this system of 
 reformation, against the ancient and barbarous mode of whipping, 
 cropping and branding the convict. 
 
 Nothing is wanting to make Alton one of the leading com- 
 mercial cities of the West, but more capital, and more industri- 
 ous business men. The means are in the country to double, ev- 
 ery year, the present business which is done in this city. 
 
 In all the various municipalities of Alton, there is at present, 
 considerable wealth. An assessment of the real and personal 
 property in Alton for 1854, reports $2,843,648, subject to taxa- 
 tion. On this sum is levied a city tax of $35,54^ and of this tax 
 $7,009, are appropriated for schools. 
 
 The above sum is confined to Alton proper, which does not in- 
 clude much more than half of all the Altonian municipalities. 
 In all the attached parts of Alton, there are not much less than 
 four million of property. 
 
 Madison county stands "proudly eminent" on the books of the 
 Assessor, and has increased within one single year ^almost one 
 and a half million of dollars. The assessment for 1852, was 
 $4,784,897, and for the year 1853, it was $6,219,616. Madi- 
 son county pays a tax of $56,537 94, for the last year; and its 
 wealth is rated the third in the State, but pays taxes as the 
 fourth county. The above statistics are taken from the official 
 report of the Auditor. All hail to old Madison county! 
 
 The causes, that have given Alton, and so many other cities in 
 the West, such extraordinary forward impetus within a few past 
 yearf, to wealth and population will not cease; but will continue
 
 SKETCHES or THI cotrNxaf . *xJ 
 
 lo increase with redoubled force and power. The fertile soil of 
 the West will still produce in abundance. The mineral resour- 
 ces will not fail the rivers and the railroads will not cease to 
 exist. Gold from California and Australia, will not refuse their 
 treasures. Illinois and the Great West, are only becoming 
 known and appreciated abroad. Why should this extraordinary 
 increase of wealth, improvements and population cease its natur- 
 al progression? Most of the resources and wealth of the Mis- 
 sissippi Valley are only being commenced, A tithe of the lands 
 are not all cultivated, and the mineral wealth is not the hundredth 
 part realised. 
 
 Under these views, Alton, in a few years, in the ordinary 
 progress of the country, will contain a population of fifty thou- 
 sand souls, or more. 
 
 The citizens of Alton are composed of almost all nations. 
 The tone and character of the city, generally, is Eastern and 
 New England; but many other nations are mixed with them. 
 Within a few years many German, and some English and Irish, 
 have settled there. The races are sufficiently mixed, so that the 
 next generation will be, at least physically improved. 
 
 In conclusion, I can say, that this city is healthy. There is 
 not more than an ordinary mortality experienced by the inhabi- 
 tants, and the city is becoming healthier every year, as the ex- 
 cessive vegetation is destroyed, and the low lands of the river 
 improved, Alton will then be a great, populous and healthy city. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 CARLINVILLE AND THE COUNTRY. 
 
 In the midst of a finely improved country, where farms on 
 farms, and splendid buildings extend as far as the eye can reach
 
 64 CARLINVILLE AND THE COUNTRY. 
 
 stands the modest "Montecello Female Academy." This insti- 
 tution is beautifully situated on an eminence, near the Railroad 
 10 Chicago, five miles from Alton. 
 
 This edifice is reared with alJ the beauty of the most improv- 
 ed architecture, and is four stories high; built of beautiful grey 
 lime-stone. It is large, airy, and made with due regard to ele- 
 gance and utility. It has been in successful operation for many 
 years, and many of the intelligent and accomplished daughters 
 of Illinois, can look back with pride and satisfaction at this noble 
 institution, as their alma mater. 
 
 Mr. Godfrey, of Alton, built this Academy, out of his private 
 funds, which cost, as I am informed, $40,000. It is a proud 
 monument of the liberality and good taste of the generous foun- 
 der, whose consciousness of advancing female education, . must 
 be to him more gratification than any amount of gold could con- 
 fer. 
 
 Around it is being built a handsome village, named Godfrey, 
 in honor of the founder of the Academy; and to it is a Plank 
 road from Alton. All the teachers, male and female in the Acad- 
 emy, are learned and accomplished scholars, whose pleasure it is 
 TO attend to the pupils given them in charge. Between eighty 
 and one hundred young ladies attend here, and receive in this 
 institution, an accomplished education; and generally appear from 
 this Academy, the brightest ornaments of society; and what is 
 still better, are generally intelligent, dignified and religious 
 ladies. 
 
 About twelve miles from Alton the cars reach the village of 
 Brighton, which is the first station from Alton. A considerable 
 amount of produce is shipped from this place on the railroad. 
 
 On leaving this town, the cars enter the great ocean of Illi- 
 nois prairies, which extend the whole distance, nearly three hun- 
 dred miles, to Chicago; except small skirts of timber intervening.
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 65 
 
 No section of the earth, for the great extent, the extraordinary 
 fertility of soil and beauty of country, can surpass the above; 
 which will be in a few years, a continuous and dense settlement 
 throughout the whole distance, containing millions of wealthy 
 and prosperous inhabitants. It is generally estimated that there 
 are one million and two hundred thousand inhabitants in the 
 State at this time, and increasing in wealth and population this 
 year more than any previous time. 
 
 On a recent festival, the authorities of St. Louis presented the 
 State of Illinois, in large letters on the walls of the banqueting 
 hall, with the honor of being called the "Empire State of the 
 West;" and in a few years, Illinois may be called the Empire 
 State of the Union; except probably New York may contest the 
 palm. 
 
 The whole amount of the wealth of the State assessed for tax- 
 ation in the year 1853, was $204,428,771, and the whole tax on 
 it was 81,944,425 85. The tax is almost two million of dollars. 
 It is a fact, that the assessors do not estimate the real and per- 
 sonal property for taxation at more than half the true value, and 
 often not to that amount. All the wealth of Illinois may be put 
 down with confidence at five hundred million of dollars. It is 
 astonishing, this unparalelled increase of wealth and population 
 in this State in so short a time. Nine-tenths of the emigrants 
 arrived herein moderate pecuniary circumstances possessing on- 
 ly intelligence, morality, and that indescribable American energy 
 and ambition, that surmounts all opposition and difficulties. Illi- 
 nois has 3,279 miles of railroad built and building; and Ohio 
 4,191. Illinois is the second State in the Union in the length of 
 her railroads, and Ohio the first. 
 
 According to the United States census for 1850, Illinois pre- 
 sents a grand and imposing spectacle of wealth and growing 
 prosperity. It is reported in the Army Register of 1852, that 
 
 12
 
 66 
 
 CARLINVILLE AND THE COUNTRY. 
 
 there arc one hundred and seventy thousand three hundred and 
 fifty-nine militia-men in the State of Illinois; which places this 
 State the fourth in the Union; New York, Pennsylvania and 
 Ohio being in the advance. The United States census of 1S50 
 states, that Illinois contains 5,114,822 acres of improved land; 
 which puts this State the seventh in the Union; and raised 433,- 
 965 bushels of wheat, and 57,179,283 bushels of corn. It is no- 
 ted that wheat crops in Ohio,Indiana and Illinois, were below an 
 average in 1850, on account of the drought. Kentucky and 
 Ohio are the only two States before Illinois in raising corn; and 
 they not much Ohio had 59,788,759, and Kentucky 58,922,788 
 bushels. Illinois raised 2,927 tons of hemp, being the third 
 State; Kentucky and Missouri ahead. Illinois had 586,011 tons 
 of hay; being the fourth State New York, Pennsylvania and 
 Ohio were before the prairie State. 
 
 These leading articles of agricultural wealth, show Illinois 
 fast verging to the Empire position in the Union, which it will ob- 
 tain in a short time. 
 
 In this State there are 34,42*2, 520acres of land, and nine- 
 tenihs of that vast amount of soil can be improved, cultivated and 
 made available. No mountains, or great lakes or marshes exist 
 in the State, and almost, the entire territory belonging thereto, 
 can be cultivated with success. 
 
 It is true, that there is a debt standing out against the State, 
 but the canal is fast paying a part of it, and the present rate of 
 taxation, with the increase of taxable property, will extinguish 
 the balance in a few years. In comparison to the increasing 
 wealth of the State, this debt is a small item. 
 
 Carlinville, the County Seat of Macoupin county, is handsome- 
 ly situated on the railroad, thirty miles from Alton. It contains 
 more than fifteen hundred inhabitants, and is growing fast. In 
 town, arelocated lawyers, physicians and clergymen, who are ac-
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 67 
 
 comphshed and learned in their respective professions. 
 
 A fine, stately brick Court House stands on the public square 
 wherein the Circuit and County Courts meet and dispense justice 
 at their sessions. Churches are not neglected in Carlinville 
 more than in other sections of the State. Many neat and be- 
 coming church buildings are erected here, and pastors o& ciate 
 in them. A public journal is established in this town, that 
 speaks with its hundreds of mouths, throughout the length and 
 breadth of the seat of its empire. The county of Macoupin was 
 organized in the year 1828, the eounty seat, soon thereafter 
 was located, and called Carlinville, in honor of Thomas Carlin, 
 late Governor of Illinois. 
 
 Carlinville is the permanent county seat of Macoupin county, 
 and is like almost all the Illinois towns, growing fast. Macou- 
 pin is a large and fertile county of lands, and has improved du- 
 ring the last year, in an extraordinary manner. All the taxable 
 property of the county was assessed in the year 1852, at 81,- 
 668,706, and the next year, 1853, the assessment was 82,873,- 
 032; shewing a rise of property in the county in one year, of al- 
 most one hundred per cent. In one year, the report of the Au- 
 ditor shows an increase of 81,204,326, and probably the present 
 year the advance may be in the same proportion. 
 
 On the railroad, the forty miles travel, to Springfield, there 
 are about one or two miles of timber on the different small bran- 
 ches of the Sangamon river, and the balance is beautiful and ex- 
 ceedingly fertile prairies, covered, part of the w T ay, with exten- 
 sive farms, and all the necessary and proper improvements of a 
 wealthy and well organized agricultural community. 
 
 In all the great West, there does not exist a finer country, or 
 one that enjoys much more agricultural improvements than the 
 above. Near Springfield many large and extensive farms are de- 
 voted entirely to sheep raising.
 
 
 68 CARLINVILLE AND THE COUNTRY. 
 
 On the west of this route, and on the railroad from Springfield 
 to Jacksonville, James Brown, Esq., owns and cultivates a prince- 
 ly farm. He has more than' two thousand five hundred acres of 
 land in actual cultivation, and enclosed. On his farm stock is not 
 entirely his care and culture; but he raises also great quantities 
 of grain and other agricultural products. Mostly his crop is 
 corn, that he feeds to his stock. In one field he has six hundred 
 acres of timothy hay growing; but a great support of his exten- 
 sive herds of cattle is blue grass. He has fields so arranged 
 that blue grass serves him for pasture winter and summer, for his 
 stock. At one time, he had two thousand five hundred head of 
 sheep; and kept a shepherd, and hands entirely appropriated to 
 the care of his sheep. The main pillar and care of his industry, 
 is raising and dealing in cattle. He delights much in choice and 
 improved blooded cattle, and has done the farming community 
 great service by his example, and by his exertions to advance 
 the breed of cattle. 
 
 In the State Legislature, he made a conspicuous member in 
 all and every interest, that tended to improve and advance agri- 
 culture. Much praise is due him for his untiring exertions in 
 the General Assembly and out, for his conspicuous aid, in estab- 
 lishing the great Agricultural State Fair, that was held last Oc- 
 tober, in Springfield. This great assemblage of farmers, and 
 their stock, and various articles on exhibition, did the State more 
 real service, than any other convention ever did, except those 
 conventions, that formed our State Government. 
 
 Another farmer, Mr. Jacob Strawn, residing still west in Mor- 
 gan county, is, I presume, the largest agriculturalist in the Uni- 
 ted States. The energies of his great talents is devoted mostly 
 to the cattle interest, and his extraordinary farm is more espe- 
 cially adapted to that particular branch of industry ,than any oth- 
 er. His enclosures of fenced land is upwards of eighteen thou
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 69 
 
 sand acres, and he has many men employed exclusively to keep 
 the fences up, and in good repair. Generally, he has on hands, 
 three thousand head of beef cattle raising, feeding, buying or 
 selling. 
 
 Many farms belonging to other persons, are enclosed within 
 his premises, and he keeps gates, and other conveniences for 
 them to go out and return. 
 
 Messrs. Strawn and Brown are both large agriculturists, and 
 have done much to advance the best interest of the country. In 
 every section of Illinois, the great and important interest of ag- 
 riculture, is improving and increasing with astonishing rapidity. 
 The report of the Auditor, embracing the year 1853, for taxation, 
 states 286,994 horses in the State, assessed at $12,530,211 49. 
 Neat cattle, 848,716, at $8,635,100 64. Sheep, 616,158, head, 
 at $705,846 82 and hogs, 1,483,643 head, at 82,670,678 12. 
 The above will show the agricultural interest of Illinois to be in 
 a prosperous condition. 
 
 The cars run from Alton on this fine road, at the rate of twen- 
 ty-five or thirty miles per hour, which soon reaches the seat of 
 Government of the State of Illinois. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE CITY OF SPRINGFIELD. 
 
 Springfield, the seat of Government of the State of Illinois, is 
 beautifully located on an extended plain of extremely fertile 
 soil, and is surrounded by a dense and wealthy population. This 
 city was laid out in 1823, and the seat of Government was moved 
 to it from Vandalia, in 1839. It is in latitude 40 North. It
 
 70 THE CITY OF 
 
 is also the county seat of Sangamon county, and the District 
 and Circuit Courts of the United States, for the southern section 
 of the State, are held in this city. Likewise, the Supreme Court 
 of the State for one of the three grand divisions, holds its sessions 
 twice each year, in this place,together with the Circuit and Coun- 
 ty Courts. 
 
 During the war of 1812 with Great Britain, the troops from 
 Kentucky, Indiana and Illinois traversed this section of State., in 
 their various expeditions against the hostile Indians, and discov- 
 ered that the Sangamon country was one of the finest farming 
 regions in the West. .The Indians, long before the whites dis- 
 covered the country, gave the name of Sangamon to the beauti- 
 ful small river, north of Springfield and the country it waters. 
 This word in the Pottawotemy language, means, "the country 
 where there is a plenty to eat;" as we would term it, "the land 
 of milk and honey." This is true, that both the natives and the 
 white men, considered the Sangamon country one of the most 
 fertile and attractive sections in the Mississippi Valley. This 
 character extending abroad, attracted in early times, numerous 
 emigrants of wealth and good standing to this country. Spring- 
 field was selected as the seat of Justice of the county, and it was 
 built up by an intelligent, industrious, and highly respectable 
 population, of the same character as the county was composed. 
 
 There is no city in this State, that enjoys a more varied popu- 
 lation than this, and but a southern tone and character prepon- 
 derate in it. Many emigrants located here from Kentucky and 
 Virginia, which has marked the character of Springfield down to 
 the present time. 
 
 The inhabitants of this city, enjoy the social pleasures and 
 happiness arising out of an intelligent and refined society, to a 
 considerable extent, and often indulge in the facinations and at- 
 tractions of tasty and elegant conrivial parties. The streets of
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 71 
 
 this city are spacious and beautiful, which afford the gay and 
 fashionable citizens, in good weather, a delightful promenade, 
 which is much enjoyed by both sexes, arm in arm,or separately. 
 The citizens are celebrated for their hospitality and urbanity of 
 manners. They enjoy great pleasure in extending to strangers 
 and others, the refined and elegant civilities that are due from 
 one to another in a polished and accomplished society. 
 
 This city, .within the last few years has advanced rapidly both 
 in wealth and population. It contains, at this time, between six 
 and eight thousand inhabitants, and bids fair to become a large 
 city. 
 
 The population of this city, entertains extended and elevated 
 riews of policy and business; and have acted accordingly. The 
 numerous merchants have done, for many years past, a large and 
 profitable business, and many of them have retired with princely 
 fortunes. They did business on a large, liberal and extended 
 scale, and the prolific and wealthy country sustained them in it. 
 
 There are in Springfield, great and small, one hundred stores, 
 and they sell over one million of dollars worth of goods, ware 
 and merchandise, during the year. This includes all classes of 
 stores. 
 
 There are no large cities near Springfield, and the farmers, 
 and others, who reside at a distance from it, nevertheless, trade 
 in it. They come to the city in wagons, and return with the ar- 
 ticles necessary for their domestic uses. 
 
 It is estimated that at least 75 wagons, on an average, arrive 
 in this city on business, each and every day, Sundays excepted, 
 during the year. 
 
 Many watch-makers and splendid jewelry stores are establish- 
 ed in this city. Also two, or more, book stores, that contain 
 volumes enough to make many men. wise, if they would read and 
 study them.
 
 72 THE CITY OF SPRINGFIELD'. 
 
 The commerce of this place is rapidly increasing; and altho* 
 the railroad facilities to this city have been established for some 
 years, yet the ordinary business of the country that do not trav- 
 el on the railroads, have increased more since the roada were 
 completed than before. 
 
 The increase of population, and the other improvements of the 
 country, keep equal pace with the railroads. 
 
 In the same liberal and intelligent policy, the citizens deserve 
 the greatest commendations for their public spirit. They have 
 provided schools for seven hundred children, to receive in them 
 the elements of education. This provision demonstrates the in- 
 telligence and public spirit of the community, more than anything 
 else. 
 
 In the north-eastern suburbs of the "city, is erected the beauti- 
 ful and elegant edifice, known as the "Illinois State University." 
 This building does great honor to its founders; not only for its 
 Educational purposes, but also for its splendid and tasfy archi- 
 tecture. It is four stories high; the first being made of beautiful 
 cut rock, and the other three of brick. 
 
 It is one hundred and seventy feet in its whole length: wings.and 
 all. The main edifice, without the wings, is eighty feet long by 
 seventy wide; and what adds much to the grand and majestic 
 appearance of this noble structure, is the elevated base on which 
 this building is erected; being as high as the eaves of the State 
 House at Springfield. 
 
 In this institution at this time, are about 170 students, and 200 
 may the next year be accommodated here. The highest branches 
 of a finished education may be had here. It cost $40,000. 
 f There is also a Female Academy in this city, that is provided 
 to receive one hundred pupils. These institutions speak loud the 
 praise of Springfield. 
 Common, and free schools kept up by taxation, and also pri-
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 73 
 
 vatc schools exist in this city, similar to other cities of the State. 
 
 Not only is the education of the rising generation strictly at- 
 tended to in this city; but the whole population, old and young- 
 also receive instruction from the holy alters of many church- 
 es in this city. There are ten, or more church edifices erected 
 in Springfield, where as many pious ministers officiate. One 
 Chatholic, three Presbyterian, two Methodist, one Baptist, one 
 Episcopalian, and one Lutherian, are the various denominations 
 of the churches. A splendid edifice of the Methodist Church- 
 graces this city, with elegant and chaste proportions, which would 
 do honor to the science of architecture in any country, and in 
 any age. A solid stone church edifice is erected in this city by 
 the Episcopalians, that would do ample justice to the Gothic style 
 of architecture in its palmiest days. This venerable style of 
 church construction, brings us back to the days when Christianity 
 commenced to cast its benign influence over a benighted world, 
 and gained a signal triumph over ignorance and superstition. 
 
 This city also contains an Odd Fellows Hall, and a Masonic 
 Institution, where the rites and privileges of these Societies are 
 enjoyed in peace and secrecy by the members. 
 
 Among the many public edifices that adorn the Capital of the 
 State, the State House enjoys a conspicuous rank. It stands in 
 the middle of the Public Spuare of the city, and is a noble and 
 majestic building. It is composed of a nondescript rock of a 
 grey color, cut and carved elegantly, and is two stories high, with 
 a dome of some considerable height, on the top. The Capitol is 
 one hundred and twenty feet long, and ninety wide. It stands 
 on the cardinal points, and is embellished on the north and south 
 fronts wiih porticos; the pillars of which are made of beautiful 
 carved rock. In the upper story in the east end, is the Senate 
 Chamber, and in the west the Representatives' Hall. These two 
 legislative saloons are well adapted to the purposes few vvhiuh 
 
 13
 
 THE CliTY OF SPRINGFIEL6. 
 
 they were intended. Over the Speaker's chair of the Hall of 
 Representatives, is placed the portrait, in full length, of the im- 
 mortal Washington, and over the Lieut. Governor's seat is the 
 full length portrait of Gen. Fafayette. In the lower story are the 
 offices of the Secretary of State, the Auditor, the Treasurer, and 
 many other offices. Also, in this story, is the Court Room of 
 one division of the Supreme Court of the State; and the State 
 Library. In this library are deposited a great number of excel- 
 lent and useful works. This State edifice cost more than three 
 hundred thousand dollars. Last winter, the Legislature appro- 
 priated $20,000 for the improvement and embellishment of the 
 public ground around it. 
 
 An elegant building for the residence of the Governor of tht- 
 State, is being constructed; and when this building is completed 
 it will add much to the beauty of the seat of Government. 
 
 There are also an elegant and substantial Court House and 
 Bank building, erected in this city, on ttfe east side of the public- 
 square, that greatly improves the appearance of the place. 
 
 In Springfield are two Banking houses, and connected with 
 them are two broker's offices, which in all do about $3,000,000 
 of business in the year. They are sol vent and good; 
 
 Springfield is also celebrated for her numerous and extensive 
 factories. There are in and near it, four steam mills, that man- 
 ufacture in the year, more than one hundred thousand barrels of 
 flour. 
 
 It also contains two iron and brass foundries; two plow and two 
 woolen cloth factories. Five boot and shoe manufactories, where- 
 in are employed one hundred workmen or more. Two carnage 
 and six wagon factories, and almost an innumerable number of 
 blacksmith shops. The factories for furniture-, carried on by 
 steam and other power, employ in their operations, more than 
 one hundred hands. There is also an extensive railroad car
 
 fr tfifc COtTNTR?. V5 
 
 factory in this city; and steam power is employed to make lin 
 seed oil. 
 
 The learned professions in this city, abundantly sustain the 
 high character and reputation of Illinois, the Empire State of the 
 West. The bar is composed of intelligence and learning, that 
 would do honor to any community. 
 
 Physicians in this city are also numerous, and mostly accom- 
 plished and finished scholars. The medical faculty of Spring- 
 field deserve well that confidence which the public so abundantly 
 bestows upon them. 
 
 The Miniters of the Gospel, the chosen men of the sacred 
 altars; are learned and pious, and have turned their backs upon 
 the vain things of this world. By means of Christianity, and 
 gentle persuasion, they urge on their congregations to enjoy a 
 more elevated and noble, state of existence on earth, and prepar- 
 ing them after death to enter into a happy immortality. 
 
 The Hotels of Springfield, are numerous, and was once equal 
 to the demands of the public; but the seat of Government of a 
 great and important State, at this advanced age of the country, 
 requires more and larger public houses than exist at this day in 
 tiie Capital of the State. 
 
 An act of the legislature passed recently, chartering a com- 
 pany to erect a public house in Springfield, equal to the wants of 
 the public. A sufficiency of hotels at the seat of Government is 
 a thing "devoutly to be wished for." 
 
 There are three hotels, among others almost equal to them, in 
 this city, that accommodate the public in first rate style, when 
 they are not too much crowded; and even on these trying occa* 
 sions, the landlords make such sincere efforts to render their 
 guests happy, and approach so near it, that that they deserve 
 great credit. 
 
 The American House is a spacious brick building, two stories
 
 76 TOB CSTY or SPRINGFIELD. 
 
 high, stands on the south-east corner of the public square, and 
 its doors and the heart of its proprietor are always open, day and 
 night, to receive the weary traveler, and make him comfortable. 
 The other two large hotels are pleasantly located on different 
 streets, not far west of the public square, and are famous for the 
 comforts and good fare they bestow upon their guests. 
 
 There are many other excellent houses in this eity, that take 
 pleasure in bestowing their good cheer, time and talents, upon 
 their customers. Hospitality and urbanity of manners prevail 
 in the public houses in this city, as well as in the private circles. 
 
 Although Springfield is located at a great distance from any 
 navigable stream; yet the great number of railroads constructed 
 and being constructed to it, have already measurably supplied 
 the defect. No city in the State is more benefited by railroads 
 than this. 
 
 Springfield enjoys the benefit of two great thoroughfares 
 in the Valley of the Mississippi the great Illinois cross 
 road, extending from Terre Haute by Springfield, to Hannibal, 
 Missouri, and the Chicago and Mississippi railroad. The great 
 cross road is finished from Decater by Springfield, to the Illinois 
 river, a distance of one hundred and twenty miles, or more, and 
 the other extends from Alton by Springfield to Chicago; and on 
 ast. 
 
 The road to Springfield from Alton, seventy-two miles, was 
 completed 10th of May 1852, and a great business has been 
 done upon it. The same road was completed last October, 59 
 miles from Springfield to Bloomington, and also much business 
 has been done upon it since that time. This road will be finish- 
 ed 89 more miles to Joliet by July next. Then a continuous 
 route of 229 miles of the same road extends from Alton by 
 Springfield to Joliet. Arrangements are made to run for the 
 present, on the Chicago and Rock Island road, from Joliet to
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 77 
 
 Chicago. This road crosses the grand Central road at Bloom- 
 ington; and for the present, the passengers and freight going 
 east, take the Central road and go on to La Salle, and then on 
 the Rock Island road to Chicago. 
 
 Many other roads are chartered, and preparing to be construc- 
 ted to Springfield, which will add much to the prosperity of this 
 city. 
 
 There are two appendages to this city which I take great 
 pleasure in presenting to the public. One is the Park of the 
 Agricultural Fair; and the other the Cottage Garden, both in the 
 vicinity of the Capital of the State 
 
 Each of these enclosures contain twenty acres of land, and 
 are admirably adapted to the purposes they are intended to ful- 
 fill. One mile west of the city is the beautiful Park, devoted to 
 agricultural purposes. It occupies an undulating surface, part 
 timber and part prairie, which, for beauty of location and adap- 
 tation to the grand State Fair, it can not be surpassed. 
 
 It would require a volume to do justice to the improvements of 
 the grand and magnificent State Fair, which was held in it last 
 fall. No exhibition in the State ever did so much substantial 
 service to the country, as the above; and it is greatly to the in- 
 terest of the people to promote both State and County Agricultu- 
 ral Fairs. 
 
 This beautiful Park is owned by the Agricultural Association 
 of Sangamon county, and is substantially and elegantly improved 
 for the purposes for which it is designed. Almost the whole of 
 the twenty acres is enclosed by a high plank fence, and the east 
 pnd and southern side are built up almost the entire length with 
 substantial stables and stalls for the live stock during the exhibi- 
 tion. On the west side was a shed, 225 feet long erected; and 
 under it, and adjoining the fence, was a table or platform, of the 
 same length and eight feet wide, built for the exhibition of the 
 
 14
 
 78 THE CITY 01 SPRINGFIELD. 
 
 various specimens of fruit. And it is supposed that such samples 
 of excellent and delicious fruit, were seldom or ever surpassed 
 in any State of the Union ft is said that there is some quality in 
 tho soil of Illinois, that is more congenial to the perfection of 
 fruit than any other section of the Union; and particularly the 
 apples, it is remarked, grow better in this State than in any oth- 
 er, This kind of fruit, grown in Illinois, is frequently shipped 
 and sold in the Atlantic cities. The peaches, also, at this Fair, 
 last fall/vere greatly admired by good judges, and were equal, 
 or superior to those grown in New Jersey. 
 
 On the north-east section of this Park, the swine and sheep 
 occupied a prominent place; and the stock of these animals was 
 considered first rate. The China, and other fowls of rare and 
 improved breeds, were exhibited within the enclosure. Towards 
 the western and southern angles of this Park, were erected large 
 and spacious booths, which were highly ornamented and decora- 
 ted with flowers, and every thing gay, gaudy and glittering. In 
 these open, spacious and splendid saloons, were exhibited the 
 rare and exquisite samples of art and nature. The largest 
 beets and an all other vegetables of their respective species were 
 exposed to the view of thousands of wondering and admiring 
 visitors. Ears of corn, and corn-stalks, were presented of the 
 most gigantic growth, that surprised many who had been raising 
 corn from their infancy. 
 
 Almost every class of roses and flowers, were on show in these 
 booths; and the varieties of shrubbery and such articles, were 
 almost innumerable. The specimens of art were elegant, and 
 many of them splendid. A beautiful and elegant article of ty-, 
 pography, from the establishment of Messrs. Chambers & Knapp 
 of Sf. Louis, attracted much attention. It showed the advanced 
 progress of the art of printing, which is the greatest invention of 
 oian; and book binding in an eminent degree. The samples of
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 79 
 
 art showing the advancement of the age, were, as incase of the 
 articles of natural production, almost without number. But it 
 was in the open arena, where the more substantial agricultural 
 and horticultural implements were exhibited, that was the most 
 beneficial to the country. Here stood substantial and useful 
 plows, wagons, reapers, thrashers, rakers, apple-pealers, hay 
 presses, and almost every agricultural implement which modern 
 progression of the age has invented. And a little south of this 
 exhibition, was the animal theatre; where large and blooded 
 stock was presented to the public. In this open space were trot- 
 ting exhibitions of horses in, and out of buggies. In the van 
 stood four, once wild elk, now tamed and exhibited. 
 
 Various long and elegantly furnished tables, of excellent fare 
 for the animal man, were also exhibited too, and well patronized 
 by the public. All of the substantial comforts, and many of the 
 tasty luxuries of the country, were here served up on three tables, 
 and much enjoyed by the healthy and happy guests. 
 
 These State Fairs will very much advance the substantial in- 
 terest of this country, and should be encouraged by all classes of 
 people. The legislature donated $2000 for two years for this 
 laudable object, and the great and public spirited county of San- 
 gamon, has also done much to advance these fairs. The Sanga* 
 non County Agricultural Association has expended $4,000, in 
 the purchase and improvement of this Park of exhibition. 
 
 Another great and essential benefit to the country, these State 
 and county fairs effect; that they assemble together, for a week* 
 or more, the most intelligent and efficient farmers of the coun- 
 try. Here the agriculturalists interchange opinions, and converse 
 together fully, which advances the best interests of agriculture. 
 Some of the largest farmers in the West, met last fall at this fair, 
 and all went home better men and much improved. 
 
 Another State Fair is to be held here next fall, and it would
 
 SO *-n:e CITY or 
 
 be the duty of the farmers to bestow particular attention to tho 
 subject. 
 
 It was a grand and imposing spectacle to observe so many of 
 the most respectable agriculturalists of the State, and others, at- 
 tending this interesting exhibition, and thereby aiding and assis- 
 ting the great leading interest of the country. This great assem- 
 blage was composed of orderly and intelligent citizens, who de- 
 ported themselves in that becoming manner, that intelligent free* 
 men will always observe. In all this vast concourse of people, 
 no immoral or unbecoming conduct was observed in any one. 
 The Governor, and many officers of the State, and General Gov- 
 ernment, and a host of others, respectable and influential citizens 
 gave their particular attention and respect to this fair. Also the 
 ladies, made it their especial duty to bestow upon the scene their 
 approbation and approval. Many elderly matrons, with becom- 
 ing female dignity and prudence, examined the various horticul- 
 tural and culinary utensils while the young, gay, and brilliant 
 daughters gave to these inanimate objects, the least part of their 
 attention, while more interesting animate nature were present. 
 
 The Cottage Garden, is a tasty, elegant and also a useful in- 
 stitution. It was established by a wealthy and respectable citi- 
 zen, Mr. Ridgely, of Springfield, who, I am informed, expended 
 815,090 in its embellishments. It has demonstrated the utility 
 of the Osage Orange for fencing, and many other articles of in- 
 terest to farmers are here also presented to the public view, Ev- 
 ergreens and shrubbery in detail and in general, are here exhi- 
 bited in great perfection. 
 
 An extensive "hot house," is erected here, that contains a part 
 almost of all the flowers, plants, roses and sweet scented vegeta- 
 bles on the globe, and particularly of the tropics. To enter this 
 building of a cold winter day, one would almost believe on ac- 
 count o f the beauty, atmosphere, and the sweet scented flowers, 
 that he was in the Garden of Eden.
 
 SKETCHES OF TH* COUKTJlY. 81 
 
 Springfield and the county of Sangamon, contain considerable 
 weahh, and oceans of stone coal. In the ckv alone, there i* 
 more than three millions of property, real ana personal; and in 
 whole county are are more than fifteen million. An assessment 
 for taxation for 1853, reports the real and personal property at 
 $10,639,232, which is generally so much below the true value, 
 that we may safely state it to be $15,000,000 or more. Sanga- 
 mon is the second wealthiest county in the State, Cook being the 
 first; and pays $72,044 93 taxes, which is also the second in 
 taxation. In 1852, the taxable property of the county was $5,- 
 153,959, showing an increase of property in that county in one 
 year of more than one hundred per cent., being $5,485,273 in- 
 crease in one year. From the report of the Auditor, there are 
 9,655 horses in the county in 1S53, and 51,848 head of hogs. 
 
 A colony of Portuguese, exiled from the Island of Maderi, 
 has excited much sympathy from the people, and has located 
 partly in Springfield and partly in Jacksonville. In Springfield, 
 they have in a few years, built thirty houses, and are doing well. 
 They reached this country extremely poor and innocent, not pos- 
 sessing the common intelligence of the age. There were abo ut 
 two hundred in Springfield, before the late accession of one hun- 
 dren and fifty more. They are swarthy, but their features are 
 regular and some are handsome. The Rev. Mr. Balle, one of 
 their countrymen, preaches to them without charge, every alt er- 
 nate Sunday. They are devout Protestants, and pay great re- 
 gard to religion. This colony is a small drop in the great Yankee 
 bucket, that will amalgamate, and not be known in a few years 
 from the American masses. 
 
 T\vo daily papers are issued in this city, and also the sam 
 presses publish weeklies. The Register is Democratic; the Jour- 
 nal,Whig both are edited with ability and talent. Mr. Francis, 
 connected with the Journal, has invented a great improvement
 
 62 THI COUNTRY BLOOMINGTOK. 
 
 on the press, for which he has obtained a patent. The Capital 
 of the State is kept well posted up "by these papers, which have, 
 also, a wide and profitable circulation throughout the State. 
 
 At no point in the West, would emigrants do better than to 
 settle in the Capital of the State of Illinois. Property is rising 
 fast, the means of education are good, churches are excellent, 
 and the society is moral, intelligent and polished. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE COUNTRY BLOOMINGTON, 
 
 Four miles north-east of Springfield, the railroad crosses ihfc' 
 small river Sangamon, on a fine bridge, and continues on its 
 way over a beautiful country. Sangamon river waters a large 
 tract of country, and is itself a clear, beautiful stream; but too 
 small for practicable navigation. 
 
 On this route, fifteen miles from the seat of Government, islo^ 
 cated near the road to the south-east, the celebrated Elk Heart 
 Grove. Six or eight hundred acres of land are embraced in this 
 grove of timber, which is on an eminence, higher than the adja* 
 cent country. It stands majestically and nobly in the prairie, 
 having no timber near it for many miles, except a little in one 
 direction. In old times it was a great camping-ground and tem- 
 porary residence of the Kickapoo Indians. It was painful to the 
 heart,s core, for the Indians to leave it. As more than all other 
 tribes, these Kickapoos disliked the Americans, and were, the 
 most bitter enemies to the whites, on this ground it grieved them
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUXTRY. 83 A 
 
 the more to abandon their homes to their old enemies. In the 
 fall of 1812, an army of only about three hundred and fifty men, 
 of whom I was an humble private, on its march against the hos- 
 tile Indians, under the command of Gov. Edwards, passed near 
 this grove, on ^our way to the Peoria Lake, and the whole army 
 were delighted with the beauty of the Elk Heart Grove. 
 
 In this section of country, and all over the northern part of the 
 State, are found, what are termed, "lost rocks." These rocks 
 are of various sizes, and some are quite large; out of which, in 
 pioneer times, mill stones were manufactured. They are the prim- 
 itive granite rock, and have no affinity or similarity to the rocks in 
 the same region of country.- This is the reason why they are called 
 the lost rocks. In some places are found patches of them togeth- 
 er, and then for miles none of them are discovered. How they 
 came here, and located on the top of the surface, is a problem that 
 is difficult to solve. 
 
 It is supposed that these rocks were frozen in great masses of 
 ice, and these ice-bergs, drifted south on the water covering the 
 valley, until the ice melted, and let tne rocks fall, where they are 
 now deposited. It is true, that the largest are located north; but 
 it ieems that if they had floated here and dropped, they would 
 have been covered with mud and earth when they fell. Per- 
 haps they might have beeri cast up by some volcanic eruption. 
 Almost all we know about them is, that they are here, hard gran- 
 ite rocks, and none like them in five hundred or one thousand 
 miles of them. It is true, I presume, that all this great Valley 
 was once covered with water; but that does not prove the manner 
 of these rocks being deposited here. 
 
 A few miles north of the Elk Heart, at another grove, north 
 of Sugar Creek, was enacted a horrid tragedy in the last war 
 with Great Britain. 
 
 Cap. James B. Moore was in command of about fifty Rangers,
 
 5 . ;.:,>:. 
 
 84 THE COUNTRY BLOOMINGT01C. 
 
 in December, 1814, guarding a drove of beef cattle from camp 
 Russell, near the present town of Edwardsville, to the garrison 
 at Peoria; and at this grove some Indians were discovered. Sev- 
 eral rangers took after one Indian, and William Hewitt having- 
 a fine horse, and being exceedingly corageous, overtook the In- 
 dian first, and the red man surrendered himself and gun, to 
 Hewitt. While he was holding both guns, another ranger behind 
 wrongfully shot at the Indian, against Hewitt's loud entreaty to 
 the contrary; and in the twinkling of an eye, the Indian wrested 
 his own gun from Hewitt, and shot him mortally. He\v r itt strug- 
 gled to retain the gun, but the savage was too strong. The In- 
 dian, soon after, was killed. Hewitt was carried on a litter, 
 through the prairie, of an exceeding cold night, ten miles, to 
 Sugar Creek, where he died before day-light. Young Hewitt 
 was an excellent man, resident of Madison county, whose death 
 was very much lamented by the whole community, and myself 
 particularly, as we were raised together. He possessed good 
 standing, and his connexions and family were also very respec- 
 table. He was a brother-in-law to Gov. Carlin. 
 
 The ballance of the Indians, five in number, were also killed. 
 This is war in its most savage state. 
 
 The country being level and the road excellent, the cars soon 
 reach Bloomington, fifty-nine miles from Springfield. 
 
 The city of Bloomington is beautifully situated on a high and 
 commanding prairie, and is the seat of Justice of McLean coun- 
 ty, Illinois. This town was laid out in the year 1831, and bids 
 fair to become a considerable commercial city. It possesses the 
 common blessings that almost all localities of the State do, of a 
 rich toil, and a dense and wealthy country population around it. 
 This city is located in a section of the State, where the fertility 
 of the soil is equal to any in the West, and has the advantage -of 
 being located on a higher and undulating country. Surrounding
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 
 
 it for hundreds of miles. Moreover, there is no large city es- 
 tablished near it, so that Bloomington will have the exclusive 
 privilege of blooming in the" midst of the most fertile and beauti- 
 ful prairies, without a rival city. 
 
 It is celebrated for its healthy location, having neither lake or 
 swamp near it. There is no place in the State healthier than 
 Bloomington. 
 
 It is also blessed with great railroad facilities. Two of the 
 most important railroads in the State, intersect each other near 
 this city. Amongst all the important improvements of the coun- 
 try, east or west,none excels the great Central railroad from Cai- 
 ro to Galena, which passes this city, and the Chicago and Mis- 
 sissippi railroad from Chicago to Alton also passes Bloomington. 
 These roads give the commerce of this city a full scope to all 
 parts of the earth. 
 
 Most of the road between this city and Joliet is finished, and 
 the balance will be completed by July next. All these commer- 
 cial facilities are in operation, or soon will be. By means of all 
 these natural and artificial advantages, this city is bound, like 
 many others in the Prairie State, to rise in a short time, into con- 
 siderable wealth, population and improvement. 
 
 Add to this, that this city and country round about, far and 
 near, are blessed with an enterprising, hardy and intelligent 
 population, who will in a short time, make this section botli 
 a fine agricultural country and beautiful city. 
 
 Within a very few years, this city has doubled and tripled its 
 population. At this time, it contains nearly five thousand inhab- 
 itants, and growing with as much rapidity as any other place of 
 the same size, in the State. It has not had time to erect many 
 public houses; but the county has built a most splendid Court 
 House and capacious Jail. The architecture and plan of the 
 Court House redound much to the credit of the public outbori- 
 
 15
 
 
 86 THE COUNTRY BLOOMItfGTOK, 
 
 ties of McLean county, and should be imitated by other older 
 communities. 
 
 A large and spacious hotel is erected on a beautiful eminence 
 in this city, which adds much to the appearance of the place, as 
 well as to the comfort and well being of the guests. 
 
 Ample provision is made for the education of five or six hun- 
 dred children, free of expense, and the means of sustaining com- 
 mon schools are progressing with the advancement of the coun- 
 try. 
 
 An elegant and splendid College edifice is erected on a beau- 
 tiful eminence in this city, which would do honor to any commu- 
 nity. It is three and a half stories high, and is large and capa- 
 cious to its height. Talents and genius are displayed in the work- 
 manship of this noble edifice, which is constructed both for sub- 
 stantial service, and magnificent appearance. Proper and com- 
 petent professors are employed for this institution, which contains 
 one hundred, or more students. A certain guarranty is given 
 by these institutions being ejected through the greatest part of 
 the State; that the great institutions of freedom of the United 
 States will be perpetual, and the people will be free and happy 
 under them. All hail to the institutions of learning in Illinois. 
 
 A female Academy and a University, both guided by the 
 Methodist Conference, are also established in this. city. One 
 hundred and fifty-four female students were enrolled in this in- 
 stitution the first year, and in the University about the same num- 
 ber of males. 
 
 Both these institutions are raising funds to erect more build- 
 ings suitable to the demands of the public, and both are conduc- 
 ted much to the honor of the founders and advantage of the coun- 
 try. 
 
 Bloomington contains eight or nine churches and religious so- 
 cieties. There are two Methodist, one Baptist, one Catholic, one
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 87 
 
 Episcopalean, one Congregational and two Presbyterian church- 
 es in this city, and each has a pastor, that performs divine service 
 in their respective churches at appropriate and proper times. 
 Nothing in a community establishes better the intelligence and 
 civilization of a people, than a proper regard for enlightened and 
 liberal Christianity. 
 
 One of the Methodist churches is a fine stately building, that 
 rears its head high above the others; but the pure and heavenly 
 precepts of the New Testament are the same in St. Peter's 
 Chureh, at Rome, or in an Indian wigwam on the Rocky Moun- 
 tains. 
 
 There are two newspapers published and well sustained in this 
 city. Their sheets are large, and ably filled with useful and 
 interesting matter, and read with avidity by their numerous pay- 
 ing subscribers. 
 
 *There are in this city, fourteen or fifteen lawyers, that sustain 
 the legal profession with honor to themselves and advantage to 
 their clients. The same number of physicians reside in this 
 place. 
 
 There are eight Protestant ministers of the gospel, and one 
 Catholic priest located in this city. All these learned professions 
 are sustained and adorned by erudite and accomplished scholars; 
 and although the country is new, yet science and literature nec- 
 essary to sustained these learned professions, are in the hands of 
 wise, aged and experienced scholars. 
 
 There is a large number of stores established in this place, 
 that sell during the year, a great quantity of goods, [wares and 
 merchandise. This branch of business is progressing with 
 the rapid rise of the country. 
 
 There are three drug, and two furniture stores in this place 
 that do an extensive and profitable business. There are also 
 three jewelry stores, and the same number of watch makers es-
 
 SS . *HB COUJfTfct BLOOMINGTOff. 
 
 tablished here, that are doing an excellent business. Grand and 
 magnificent steam flouring mills are erected all around the sub- 
 urbs of this city, and the factories of agricultural implements are 
 numerous and efficient. 
 
 There are two carriage factories; and plows and wagons are 
 turned out here in great numbers. 
 
 The assessed property for taxation in this city, is nearly one 
 million of dollars, and is in fact, worth two million, as property 
 is scarcely ever taxed at near its real value. 
 
 It is extraordinary, the rise of property in McLean county in 
 one year. The assessed value of real and personal property for 
 taxation in the year 1852, was $1, 7C,155, and in the year 1853 
 it rose to $2,889,319. Personal property was rated at $984,501 
 in 1852, and in 1853, it was assessed at $1,545,610. It will be 
 seen by this statement from the official report of the Auditor, 
 that the real estate has more than doubled itself in one year, in 
 this county, and the personal property nearly so. It must be the 
 railroads that are the main cause of this extraordinary rise of 
 property in one year. 
 
 The McLean County Bank is located in this city, and has a 
 capital of $100,000 of public stocks specie onhand $13,869 10 
 total resources, $355,059 65, and notes in circulation $69,934. 
 
 A large and beautiful grove of timber 'near the city of Bloom- 
 ington, \vas much admired by the Rangers in the war of 1812, 
 with Great Britain. It was first called by the troops, the "Keg 
 Grove," on account of an empty keg being found in it during 
 the war. But this humble name did not comport with the beauty 
 of the grove, and in modern times the name was changed to that 
 of the "Blooming Grove." Bloomington derived its name from 
 the grove. 
 
 This town was staked out in 1831, and remained stationary 
 for some years; but now it is rising with the power of a giant.
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 89 
 
 A Mayor and officers are elected annually, to manage its police, 
 and the Circuit and County Courts hold their terms in this city. 
 
 Good order, and moral bearing are duly observed in this com- 
 munity. Liberal and enlightened Christianity prevails through- 
 out the country and city, and has almost extinguished the dark 
 and gloomy clouds of ignorance and superstition that once ob- 
 scured the bright rays of the Divine Precepts. Might as well 
 arise parties and sects on the mathematics, as on the Divine Pre- 
 cepts, \vhere they are properly understood. The Creator never 
 established his precepts to bewilder or entrap his creatures. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 PERU, LA SALLE, OTTAWA, MORRIS AND JOLIET. 
 
 Leaving Bloomirigton, the Central railroad is the route north* 
 for sixty miles, through a pure, unadulterated and virgin prairie, 
 without scarce a tree or shrub near the route. Only at one sta- 
 tion, there are a few trees,and the whole balance of the route is a 
 rich level prairie, without a speck of timber in certain directions, 
 for twenty or thirty miles distance. On this Central railroad, 
 the cars feel at home, as it is conceded to be one of the best con- 
 structed roads in America. 
 
 As the cars approach the Illinois river, no indications of the 
 river is seen, until the top of the bluff of the river is reached. 
 It seems, the Illinois river found at its birth, a smooth prairie 
 through which it cut itself a channel to suit its convenience, from 
 its source to the Mississippi. Like most of the citizens of Illi- 
 
 16 
 
 I
 
 PERU, LA SALLE, OTTAWA AND JOLIET. 
 
 nois, the river worked its own way through the prairies by its 
 own energies, from one end of its course to the other. Farms 
 and improvements are being made in this prairie, and soon will 
 contain a dense and wealthy population. It is as rich soil as any 
 in the State. 
 
 On arriving at the cliffs of the river, the prairie monotony of 
 sixty miles is relieved by the splendid view of the scenery of the 
 river, and the two beautiful and lovely small cities of Peru and 
 La Salle. Also is seen the magnificent and substantial bridge, 
 building by the Central Railroad Company. 
 
 At this point the river bottom is, I presume, nearly one mile 
 wide, and through it is seen the river's winding course, and the 
 fine improvements extending in every direction, so that the pros- 
 pect from this point is beautiful and grand. 
 
 A short distance on the bank of the river, below the point 
 where the railroad crosses it, was erected, in the time of the 
 Black Hawk War, i* 1832, Fort Wilburn. 
 
 At this Fort was organized five thousand volunteers, to chas- 
 tise Black Hawk and his band of Sac and Fox Indians. As 
 Governor of the State, I called out five thousand volunteers, and 
 directed them to meet me at Hennepin, a few miles below; but in 
 June of 1832, the volunteer army was organized at Fort Wilburn, 
 and marched in pursuit of the hostile Indians under the command 
 of Gen. Atkinson, of the U. S. Army. 
 
 Not long before, the Black Hawk warriors had killed many 
 citizens, and took 'prisoners two young women of the Hall family 
 not far from Ottawa. 
 
 I was induced to call out such great force, as Black Hawk and 
 warriors had been poisoning the minds of all the Indian tribes 
 for hundreds of miles from the scene of war,and had induced many 
 to consent to join him against the whites. It was necessary to 
 act with promptitude, and with much force of mounted men to re-
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 91 
 
 press the hostile intentions of the surrounding Indians, and strike 
 terror into their hearts. Five or six thousand volunteers, togeth- 
 er with all the regular army of the United States, that were 
 within reach of the scene, were an immense force; but if the 
 whole Indian power were united, they could raise as many, or 
 more warriors than we had in the field. It was a matter of diffi- 
 culty to know the necessary force to be employed. It was right- 
 ly judged, as I believe, and the country was saved from an Indi- 
 an war; except with the single band of Black Hawk. A settled 
 hostility exists with all the border Indians against the United 
 States, which is easily fanned into a flame. Fort Wilburn and 
 the Indians disappeared from the country about the same time, 
 in 1833 or 1834. 
 
 Peru and La Salle may be considered one city with two names. 
 Only about one mile of prairie is between them, and that filling 
 up fast with fine improvements. In both, there are about 8,000 
 inhabitants, and each increasing with almost railroad speed. 
 Both these cities are beautifully situated on the table land of the 
 river, and on the rising ground adjoining. On the high land 
 are the most beautiful locations for either residences or business. 
 Peru is located on the bank of the river, where the boats land 
 almost the whole season, and La Salle is built at the bason of 
 the canal, where boats also land all the year, when low water or 
 ice do not prevent them. 
 
 Both these cities are fortunately situated for commerce. The 
 Illinois and Michigan canal, ninety-six miles long, from Chica- 
 go, enters the Illinois river here, and two of the great and im- 
 portant Illinois railroads eross each other in these cities. The 
 Central railroad from north to south is one, and the Chicago and 
 Rock Island road is the other. These great roads, together with 
 the canal east, and the Illinois river west, give these cities great 
 commercial facilities.
 
 92 PERU, LA SALLE, OTTAWA AND JOLIET. 
 
 In both these cities, are organized city governments, and elec- 
 ted Mayors and Aldermen. In both of them the police is excel- 
 lent, except at some "great outbreaks," such as were experienced 
 at La Salle some time past, amongst the laborers on the Central 
 railroad. 
 
 In these cities are maintained many free schools at the public 
 expense, and in all, capable of accommodating at least eight hun- 
 dred children. Also there are many private schools in these 
 twin cities. And what is equally beneficial and perhaps better, 
 are several Sunday Schools, whose teachers are the most intelli- 
 gent and polished scholars, male and female, of the community. 
 There is no work, wherein a human being can be engaged better 
 in the sight of Heaven, than to instruct the rising generation in 
 virtue, morals and religion. 
 
 Three printing presses are established in these cities, 
 and each office issues a weekly journal. These papers are edi- 
 ted by intelligent and accomplished scholars, and have a very 
 extended circulation. It is the press in these cities, as it is in all 
 other places, that advance so much the growth and improvement 
 of this country. 
 
 Many beautiful and elegant church edifices grace these cities. 
 Mostly they occupy the elevated parts of the premises,and are at- 
 tended by moral and pious congregations. A Roman Catholic 
 temple is erected here, wherein are performed all the the reli- 
 gious exercises that are practiced in the Mother Church at 
 Rome. 
 
 Many fine Hotels are established in these cities, whose very 
 appearance for neatness and comfort, makes the traveler bound 
 with joy before the luxuries within are realised. The Hardy 
 House in La Salle, stands number one west of Chicago. 
 
 Although these cities, neither, of them are the county seat of 
 justice, yet there abounds in all the various paraphernalia of the
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COtJNTJlY. 93 
 
 law, to wit: Justices of the Peace, lawyers, constables, suitors, 
 jurors and witnesses. 
 
 Great quantities of coal are found near these cities, that have 
 given great impetus to manufactures. Now we see the black 
 smoke rising out of many foundries and factories, making steam 
 engines, boilers, reapers, plows, plaining plank and all the ma- 
 chinery and farming utensils, that the wants of the public de- 
 mand. Flouring mills also stand prominent in these twin-sisters. 
 Amongst the improvements may be ranked the splendid and 
 magnificent bridge in course of construction by the Central Rail- 
 road Company. It is three thousand five hundred feet long, or 
 two-thirds of a mile,and extends from bluff to bluff over the Illi- 
 nois river and bottom, leaving the river and travel seventy-five 
 feet below it. It is built of hydraulic rock from Joliet, and pre- 
 sents to the world a model of architecture. 
 
 It is conceded by all, to be the greatest work of the bridge 
 character in the West, and contains one million feet of timber in 
 its various parts. All the iron and lumber are brought from Chi~ 
 cago for its construction, and the top is to be covered with tin, 
 and adorned with elegant hand-rails, 
 
 On the top of all run the cars, leaving the canal, river, and 
 land travel far below. Pillars of the above rock are constructed 
 of the most substantial and durable character, sustaining the 
 whole superstructure. This bridge will be completed in the 
 fall. 
 
 A plank road of one mile, is constructed on the high land, con- 
 necting these two sisters together, which does r much business. 
 Commerce is rapidly increasing in these cities, and is at this time 
 considerable. 
 
 In the month of April last, freights from La Salle to Chicago, 
 on the Rock Island railroad, were 3,106,833 pounds, and in the 
 same month last year, 1853, they were only 176,785 pounds. It
 
 94 PERU, LA SALLE, OTTAWA AND JOLIST. 
 
 is estimated that the commerce of these cities has increased forty 
 per cent, in one year. It is surprising, the steamboats that ar- 
 rive and depart daily, at these ports; being not much less than 
 six or eight per day. 
 
 Taking the commercial advantages of these cities their lo- 
 cation in such healthy and fertile region of country, and the very 
 industrious and enterprising population surrounding them, they 
 will, in a short time, become quite considerable cities, embra- 
 cing each other, and finally joining themselves together in holy 
 wedlock. 
 
 The city of La Salle and county, were so called in honor of 
 the celebrated Sieur Robert De La Salle, the great explorer of the 
 country. 
 
 A Bank is located at Peru, known as the Bank of Peru, and 
 has a capital of $62,000 in public stocks, in the hands of the 
 Auditor; specie on hand, $24,003 89; resources, $259,211 04, 
 and notes in circulation, $62,OPO. This Bank must be solvent. 
 
 In ancient times, as well as modern, this section of country 
 was conspicuous and celebrated. Ancient missionaries report the 
 Indian population to be very great in this locality. In 1673 the 
 Rev, Marquette estimates the population of this Indian colony, 
 to be seventy- four cabins, and the next year it rose to one hun- 
 dred or one hundred and fifty cabins, with a population of two 
 thousand men, besides women and children. In 1677 Fathe r 
 Alloues, another missionary, gives the cabins at one hnndred 
 and fifty- one. 
 
 In 1680, the Rev. Recollet Mambre, puts the population at 
 seven or eight thousand, and calls the town Kachkachkia. He 
 further states,the town is in latitude 40 42' north, and is situated 
 "on one s^de of a prairie of vast extent, and on the other an ex- 
 panse of marsh, that makes the air unhealthy." I think, modern
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 95 
 
 commentators on these remarks, speak the truth, when they say 
 this town was near the Rock Fort, or Fort St. Louis. 
 
 It is a well established history, that this celebrated ancient 
 Fort was commenced by Tonti, in the year 1680, by order of La 
 Salle, and was finished in 1682. It was located on the Starved 
 Rock, although some writers place it on the Buffalo Rock, a few 
 miles above. 
 
 This famous rock stands in its venerable majesty, on the bank 
 of the Illinois river, five miles above La Salle, and rises from 
 the water, almost three hundred feet perpendiculaf , being a 
 lime stone rock* It is detached from the rest of the cliffs of the 
 river, and contains an area of about one-half acre on the top. 
 Only one side is accessible; and on this rock a fortress was built 
 by La Salle, in the year 1680. 
 
 On it are the vestages of the ancient "French Fort," as the 
 modern* Indians call it; and many articles of European manufac- 
 ture have been found on this rock. 
 
 A gun-lock, with the coat of arms of France upon it, and a 
 curiously wrought trunk- lock, were found on this site, which es- 
 tablishes the fact beyond a doubt, that here was built the celebra- 
 ted Fort, known as St. Louis, or Rock Fort. 
 
 On the Buffalo Rock, many examinations have been made, 
 and no traces of ancient fortifications can be discovered on it. 
 Near the Starved Rock, is another promontory, almost as high as 
 the main rock; and on it are also marks of an ancient garrison, 
 which may have been attached to the main fortress. 
 
 Tonti remained in this fort for several years; and he and Joutel 
 passed the winters of 1687 and 1688 together in this garrison. 
 Joutel escaped from the bloody scenes of the South, and rested 
 one winter. 
 
 At this Rock Fort the missionaries established themselves, 
 and for many years, made pious efforts to christianize the natives.
 
 96 PEtttf, LA SALIE, OTTAWA, MOnillS A1CD 
 
 At no time does it appear that any French village was built here, 
 and at last the French abandoned it. Charlevoix, in his tour 
 through this country in 17*21, does not mention it. 
 
 In modern days, this rock has acquired celebrity by the name 
 of the "Starved Rock." It said the northern tribes became much 
 enraged against the Peoria Indians, because one of that nation 
 had killed the great Pontiac, in the village of Cahokia, in the 
 year 1767, and to take satisfaction for this outrage, the northern 
 Indians waged a war of extermination against the Peorias, and 
 all the other tribes of .the Illinois Indians. In defence of them- 
 selves, a party of the Peorias took shelter on^his rock, where the 
 French had formerly built the Fort. Their enemies besieged 
 them, and starved many of them to death; which gave it the name 
 of the "Starved Rock." 
 
 On a dark, rainy night, a party of the Peorias made a sortie, 
 from the rock, and cut their way out through the enemy, This 
 small remnant was saved, and took protection under the French 
 garrison at St. Louis, then in Louisiana. 
 
 In the year 1827, a respectable gentleman, of Ottawa, Mr. 
 George E. Walker, visited the Starved Rock, with a Chippewa 
 chief, eighty or ninety years old. The old chief narrated the 
 whole history of the Starved Rock to Mr. Walker, and showed 
 him the place the besiegers occupied, and shot amongst the Peo- 
 ria Indians on the rock, with their cross-bows. 
 
 This rock now sleeps in peace. The bustle and noise of the 
 French garrison, and the war-whoop of the Indians have all be- 
 come silent as the grave, and the past scenes of the poor Indian, 
 and the gay French garrison, only exist in history. 
 
 Nearly opposite the "Starved Rock," and about midway be- 
 tween La Salle and Ottawa, are the Sulphur Springs, that an* 
 becoming known and celebrated, as elegant and fashionable wa 
 tering places. The medicinal qualities of the water are bein
 
 THE COUlfTRt. 7 
 
 appreciated, and many assemble there both for relief from dis- 
 ease, and pleasure from ennui. Two splendid hotels are erected 
 there, for the accommodation of the guests, one of which is four 
 stories high, made of rock, and furnished in the very neat and 
 elegant style. It is called the "Spring Valley House," wherein 
 comfort, pleasure and good cheer, are found in abundance. The 
 other hotel is also excellent, and' deserving a call. 
 
 Still pursuing the route, the cars and' canal-boats pass near the 
 Buffalo Rock, w r hich is a curiosity. It is an island in the bottom 
 land of the Illinois river, where evidently, the water ran on both 
 sides of it at some remote period. About six hundred acres of 
 land compose the area of this rock, so called', and which in ap- 
 pearance, is exactly similar to the other high land in the neigh- 
 borhood. One side is washed by the river, and the other two 
 sides are inaccessable on account of perpendicular rocks. 
 
 Tradition says, the name was given to this place, as the hun- 
 ters in olden times, drove the buffaloes on the rock or elevation, 
 and forced them off over a precipice at the other angle. They 
 were killed by the fall, and their flesh shipped to New Orleans. 
 At all events, this is the name the Buffalo Rock enjoys. 
 
 It appears evident, that at some previous time, much more water 
 flowed in the Illinois valley than does at this day. An hypothe- 
 sis prevails -with some, that the Niagara river, at a very remote 
 period, did not exis't, and all the waters of the Lakes, then flowed 
 out to the Ocean, through the valley of the Illinois river. In af- 
 ter ages, the Niagara river \vas made, from Lake Erie to Oato- 
 rio, and the western river of the lakes, ceased to exist. It is 
 difficult to solve this problem. 
 
 On this route, the next considerable place is Otta\va. 
 
 The city of Ottawa, the modest Queen of the prairies, is beau- 
 tifully situated on the extended plain of the Illinois river, clear 
 of all inundations, and admirably located for commercial advan- 
 
 17
 
 98 PERU, LA &ALL2, OTTAWA AND JOLIET. 
 
 tages. On both sides of the eity, the gently rising bluffs of the 
 river presents themselves, and; exhibit delightful improvements 
 and embellishments of art and nature. 
 
 Ottawa is the seat of justice for one grand division of the Su- 
 preme Court of the State, and also for the county of La Salle. 
 
 Within a few years, this city has increased its population, and 
 wealth, many fold, and has taken a stand in the common career 
 of other Illinois cities, for fame, wealth and population. 
 
 Many natural advantages add their influence to this favorite 
 location, and have already done much to its advancement. Wa- 
 ter power in, and near this city, stands unrivaled in the West, 
 and will in the end, make this a great manufacturing place. Fox 
 river and the Grand Rapids of the Illinois river, are justly cele- 
 brated throughout the country, for their water privileges, and are 
 in the immediate vicinity of this city. Also the canal, fed by 
 Fox river, has extended into the very heart of the city almost 
 any amount of water power for factories, and which is now being 
 used to propel machinery. 
 
 Moreover, bituminous coal, and excellent rock for building, ex- 
 ist in the neighborhood, and almost every other natural advan- 
 tage is found here to advance the prosperity of this city. 
 
 Ottawa enjoys a favorable location for commerce. Both the 
 Illinois and Michigan canal, and the Chicago and Rock Island 
 Railroad, pass through this city, and afford to it great commer- 
 cial facilities. 
 
 On the west, and connected with the city by railroad and canal 
 is the great Central Railroad, which will also add much commerce 
 to Ottawa. And many roads running east, will give to the citi- 
 zens of this city speedy access to all the Atlantic sea-board. 
 
 All the various railroads of Illinois, which so abundantly sup- 
 ply the State with channels of commerce, also add their impor- 
 tant influence lo this city.
 
 o* *Hfc fcottinrti*. 99 
 
 Within a short time, the population has rapidly increased in 
 this city, and is now upwards of five thousand. Like other wes- 
 tern cities, the citizens are a mixture of almost all nations, and 
 are enjoying the blessings of peace and happiness together, in 
 the most perfect harmony and friendship. Most of the inhabi- 
 tants are the intelligent and energetic classes, that could not be 
 confined to the old countries to an almost vegetable existance; but 
 were determined to seek and better their fortunes, which they 
 have generally accomplished. 
 
 Not only are the citizens of Ottawa intelligent themselves, but 
 they have made arrangements to bestow the blessings of educa- 
 tion on their rising generations. Free schools are established in 
 great numbers throughout the city; so that every child, rich or 
 poor, may enjoy the blessings of education. The higher branch- 
 es of learning are also well sustained, by public and private in- 
 stitutions. Towering edifices stand in many sections of the city, 
 ready for the reception of students destined to enjoy the highest 
 branches of collegiate education. 
 
 Not only is the ordinary education of the youth of Ottawa se- 
 cured; but also are Sunday Schools established, that instruct 
 gratis the rising generation, in morals and religion. The citi- 
 zens of Ottawa, like all other good citizens, consider it as essen- 
 tial to instruct the heart as well as the head. An educated man, 
 whose actions are not 'regulated by morals and religion, is rather 
 a curse than a blessing to a community. 
 
 Sound and enlightened religion is also well sustained in 
 this city. Six churches of the following denominations, are es- 
 tablished in Ottawa, to wit: Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Baptist, 
 Methodist, Free School and Congregationalist. 
 
 Many of the church edifices are splendid buildings, and dem- 
 onstrate that the sublime science of architecture has made un- 
 mistakable demonstrations of its "real presence " in this city.
 
 100 i'ttttJ, 1.A SAME, OTTAWA AKD 
 
 The Catliolic church is erected with due proportions, and gran- 
 deur of the most approved principles of architecture, and makes 
 a lasting and devout impression, that this is one of the houses 
 dedicated to God and salvation. Many of the other churches 
 are equally large and elegant. 
 
 In this city are established two public journals, which are well 
 sustained by the public. Weekly sheets are published from 
 each office, that are well edited, well circulated and well read. 
 
 It is in this city, as it is throughout the State, that the learned 
 professions have taken that high and lofty stand, that place the 
 members, not only in the front ranks of their respective profess- 
 ions; but they also stand high in general science and literature. 
 About twenty lawyers, fifteen physicians and six ministers of the 
 gospel, grace the city of Ottawa with their official acts, and pub- 
 lic and private conduct. One of the Justices of the Supreme 
 Court resides in this city. 
 
 Many large and efficient factories exist in Ottawa, and are 
 carried on with that intelligence and energy, and activity that 
 only can be found within the United States, 
 
 In the heart of the city, is a large hydraulic basin, with a wa- 
 ter power sufficient to propell sixty pair of mill-stones, which is 
 brought by the canal from Fox river. Water power from this 
 basin, now carries on two large flouring mills, one with four run 
 of stone, and the other three, one lin-seed ail mill, one large 
 engine and machine shop, and foundry. 
 
 This season, will be erected, near this basin, an extensive pa- 
 per mill, a machine shop,, a reaper and grass cutter factory, and 
 also a large sash, door, and blind factory. 
 
 Neither is steam power neglected in this city. One large 
 foundry and machine shop, where almost all the utensils of hard- 
 ware are manufactured. Also two factories of reapers and grasR 
 cutters, two mills to plain plank, and make sash, doors and
 
 SKETCHES OF THB COUNTRY. 105 
 
 are widely circulated. It contains almost, or quite, fifteen hun- 
 dred inhabitants, and like the whole State, is rapidly improving. 
 Already there are man} good schools Sunday, and others and 
 churches established here. Lawyers, physicians and clergymen 
 are located here, that are both respectable and worthy members 
 of society. 
 
 In this town, there are few loafers or grog-shop politicians. 
 Public opinion is here based on morals and intelligence; so that 
 disorder, wickedness and crime, have a short pasture in this city, 
 which is generally the case throughout the whole length and 
 breadth of the Empire State of the West. 
 
 Much business is done in this place. About one thousand 
 head of hogs, averaging two hundred and fifty pounds each, were 
 slaughtered here the last year, and other staple articles were re- 
 ceived and sold here in about the same proportion. 
 
 Factories are carried on in this town, with much success, both 
 to the owners and the public. One large steam flouring mill is 
 established here, that does an extensive business, 
 
 All the necessary machine shops for the manufacture of wag- 
 ons, plows, carriages, and such necessary articles for the public, 
 are in full operation here, with great activity and profit to the 
 proprietors. 
 
 Leaving Morris, the next county seat is Joliet, the seat of 
 Justice for Will county, and is a beautiful small city, containing 
 between four and five thousand inhabitants. 
 
 A short distance west of the city, is the celebrated Mount Jo- 
 liet, known ^o traders and travellers in the West, for the last one 
 hundred and eighty years, sin^e the first exploration of the coun- 
 try. The renowned and famous explorer, M. Joliet, with the 
 Rev. Marquette, passed this Mount in the year 1673, on their 
 way from the Mississippi to the Lakes, and for him, this singu- 
 lar elevation of earth was called, It is oblong, and of considera*
 
 106 PERU, LA SAtLE, OTTAWA, MORRIS AND JOLEFl. 
 
 ble height. In ancient times, the Indian traders had houses 
 erected on it, and it is a lovely and beautiful mound. It stands in 
 the open prairie, apart from other elevations, which gives it an 
 air of majesty and elegance. In former days, it was considered 
 a work made by hands; but now, most deem it a small portion of 
 the original creation. 
 
 From this mound the city of Joliet derived its name, which 
 will be transmitted to the latest posterity, in honor of Joliet, the 
 first discoverer of the country while poor Marquette, his leader 
 in the discovery of the same, has not a solitary name given to 
 any place to perpetuate his virtues. I think his worth is recorded 
 in a higher sphere. 
 
 This city, like the others in the valley of the Illinois river, is 
 blessed with great commercial advantages. It is located on, and 
 over, and on each side of the Rivierre des Plains, sixteen or 
 eighteen miles from its junction with the Kankakee. 
 
 This city is the focus where the Chicago and Mississippi rail* 
 road, which will be finished in July next, intersects the canal and 
 the railroad from Chicago to Rock Island. Also, a railroad is 
 being constructed from Joliet, east, to La Porte, Indiana, and to 
 the Atlantic. 
 
 All these facilities of commerce, the canal and railroads, make 
 this a point in their various courses. 
 
 Joliet is a flourishing and prosperous young city, just assuming 
 a rank and standing in the grand constellation of Illinois cities, 
 and bids fair to rival any place, not located on the great naviga- 
 ble waters. 
 
 Joliet is celebrated for rock manufactories; and thereby her 
 fame stands on a rock foundation. No locality in the great West 
 can compare with this city in its extraordinary rock-quarries, and 
 for the equally extraordinary quantities of rock manufactured 
 here for market Rocks can be obtained here of almost any
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 107 
 
 size and dimensions, and of a quality that will compare favorably 
 with any in America. Slabs may be had here sixty feet long, 
 by twelve wide. 
 
 From three to four hundred workmen are employed here in 
 quarrying, sawing and working rocks, in all the various modes 
 and shapes, necessary for the manifold uses and whims of the 
 people. This branch of industry is a great source of wealth to 
 this city. 
 
 Other factories numerous mills, and a large tannery are also 
 efficiently carried on in this place. A woolen cloth factory is 
 established here, of extraordinary capacity and power, owned^by 
 Gov. Matteson, More than two hundred yards per day, of wool- 
 en fabricks are manufactured here, when the works are carried 
 on. A large stove foundry, and many capacious machine facto- 
 ries, are in full operation in this city. Wagons, plows, reapers, 
 threshers, carriages, and almost all classes of agricultural imple- 
 ments, are manufactured here in great abundance, and sold in 
 the surrounding country, 
 
 Joliet contains forty or fifty stores, and sold at least, one mil- 
 lion of dollars worth of goods, wares and merchandise, the last 
 year, and will increase the business this year. 
 
 One thousand head of hogs were slaughtered here last year, 
 and six hundred thousand pounds of pork were shipped to mar- 
 ket from this point last season one hundred and fifty thousand 
 bushels of corn seventy-six thousand bushels of oats r and twen- 
 ty-thousand bushels of wheat, were exported from Joliet last 
 year and not one-half of the crop was taken to market from the 
 country. 
 
 In May, 1854, the ware-houses contained much produce for 
 shipment. A. Cogwin had in store, 15,900 bushels of oats and 
 the same of corn. Houghtelling had 13,000 bushels of corn, 
 20,000 bushels oats, 500 bushels wheat, and 200 barrels flour.
 
 108 ranu, LA BALLE, OTTAWA, MORRIS AND JOLIET. 
 
 Woodruff had 30,000 bushels corn, 30,000 bushels oats, and 50 
 bushels wheat. Gardner had 18,000 bushels corn, and 4,500 of 
 oats. Only a portion of the ware-houses of Joliet are here enu- 
 merated. 
 
 Joliet is honored with eight churches, and congregations fill- 
 ing them to overflowing. Christian principles o-f meekness, 
 charity; loving them that hate you; doing good for bad; and all 
 other virtues recorded in *he Scriptures, are taught in these 
 churches with persuasive eloquence, and the people are much im- 
 "proved by them. 
 
 But this city ftands out nobly in her liberal and wise policy of 
 edu:ation. More t"ian seven hundred children are instructed in the 
 various schools, free of any charge, whatever. Barefooted and 
 bareheaded children obtain an education in the common schools, 
 which redound much to the honor and patriotism of the citizens 
 of Joliet. 
 
 A grand and magnificent school edifice is erected in this city, 
 thue stories high; eighty feet by sixty; built of. stone and brick; 
 -known as the "Union School;" cost fifteen thousand dollars. The 
 citizens of Joliet pay particular attention to education, which is 
 one of the great pillars of man's happiness in this life, and I be- 
 lieve in the life to come. Many of the most influential citizens 
 head the Sunday Schools in this town, and are not ashamed to 
 bend the knee to God. 
 
 The learned professions stand high and honorable in this city. 
 
 About seventeen lawyers, ten physicians, and ten preachers, 
 are residents of this place, and practice their respective profes- 
 sions in the city and country. The members of these professions 
 are generally gentlemen of science and learning in other re- 
 spects, as well as in their particular avocations, 
 
 Joliet is the residence of his Excellency, Joel A. Matteson. 
 * Governor of Illinois, and many more worthy and respectable
 
 SKETCHES OF TUB COUNTRY. 109 
 
 dignitaries. It is an incorporated city, with a Mayor and Alder- 
 men; and the worthy and excellent pioneer, Mr. Van Horn is 
 the Mayor of the city, whose administration is dictated by wis- 
 dom and patriotism. 
 
 This city enjoys great water privileges. The canal and the 
 river afford all the water power to propel machinery, that will be 
 required for many years to come. 
 
 The rise of property in this city and county, has been very 
 extraordinary for the last few years. Referring to the Auditor's 
 report, "Will county was assessed for the year 1852, at $2,608,- 
 958, for her real and personal taxable property; and in the year 
 1853, it stood at $3,609,216, being $1,000'259, of an increase 
 in one year. 
 
 It is astonishing, the increase of wealth and population Illi- 
 nois has experienced during the last year; and it appears this 
 year will be still more so. Emigrants residing in the State only 
 a few years, many of them have already amassed great fortunes 
 and others will do the same, who are so fortunate as to emigrate 
 to ihe State. 
 
 The wealth of Joliet has increased as much, or more, than the 
 Auditor shows it has done in the county. 
 
 A Bank, called the Merchant and Drover's Bank, is located in 
 Joliet, with a capital of $210,882 65; of public securities in the 
 hand ot the Auditor, and has notes in circulation to the amount of 
 $198,115. All its resources are $378,815 92, and specie on 
 hand, $19,968 50. 
 
 In this city are established two presses, that issue weekly pa- 
 pers, which are edited with ability and marked attention to the 
 advancement of the country and city. " These journals have a 
 wide range throughout the State, and keep the people well in- 
 structed on most subjects where circulated. 
 
 On leaving, Joliet, the cars traverse a beautiful level country, 
 about 40 miles, to the great Metropolis, Chicago. 
 
 19
 
 110 CITY OF CHICAGO, 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 f f 4$j 
 
 CITY OP CHICAGO. 
 
 The city of Chicago is beautifully situated on the western 
 shore of Lake Michigan, at the entrance of the Chicago river 
 into the Lake, latitude 41 52', North, and is extended over an 
 ample space of pure virgin prairie. It is the seat of Justice of 
 Cook county, Illinois, and is one of the great emporiums of the 
 West. 
 
 When the first French explorers from Canada, in the year 1673, 
 discovered the site, they also found the name Chicago attached 
 to it, and perhaps for ages before, the natives may have given 
 the place this same name. Chicago is, therefore, an ancient, 
 aboriginal name, "whereof the memory of man runneth not ta 
 the contrary;" and the city bids fair to become in future ages, as 
 famous for its wealth, population and greatness, as its name is for 
 its antiquity. 
 
 A missionary, the famous James Marquette, and his humble 
 and devout companions, Pierre Porteret and Jacques, built the 
 first house in Chicago, in the year 1674, and wintered in it. On 
 the 4th Dec., of the same year, this devout and pious corps, 
 reached this site; known then as "Chicago," and passed the win- 
 there. Another missionary, the Rev. Zenobius Membre, calls 
 the Chicago river ,the "Divine river," and says the Indians named 
 it "Chicagua." His authography is a little different from the. 
 present. It does not appear why the missionary called this river 
 the "Divine river." 
 
 The name Chicago, is of Indian etymology, and signifies, in 
 the Miami language, "the land of onions," or "wild onion field;"
 
 SKETCHES OE THE COUNTRY. Ill 
 
 by which name this locality, for many ages has been known. 
 
 In the winter of 1682, La Salle and M. Tonti, his Lieuten- 
 ant, with the traveling corps, consisting of twenty-three white- 
 men, eighteen eastern Indians, ten squaws and three children, 
 passed over the site of the present city of Chicago, on the ice of 
 the Chicago river, and pursued their western explorations. 
 
 Tonti prepared here, sleighs, for the transportation of their 
 baggage; which were the first articles manufacturecTby white men, 
 in the Valley of the Mississippi, and may be ominous that this 
 place may yet become the great workshop of the West. 
 
 Chicago existed almost entirely in the name, for many 5 ears; ' 
 and enjoyed a kind of monotonous life with the Indians and In- 
 dian traders /.during the time down to the occupation of the coun- 
 try by the Americans; but at no time, a French village or much 
 cultivation existed at this place before the above period. 
 
 It was the centre of a great Indian population, and the Indian 
 traders frequently passed this point on their commercial cam- 
 paigns, and some resided here at intervals for many years be- 
 fore the Americans possessed the country. 
 
 Wilmette, and some others, resided here, and furnished means 
 to assist in the transportation of the freight from the Lakes to 
 the waters of the Mississippi. Jean B. Point Sable resided 
 here, in the year 1795, and some other French traders, before 
 and after him. 
 
 Fort Dearborn, so called, was the first garrison erected by the 
 United States, in Chicago, in 1804; but it seems the treaty of 
 Greenville, 3d August, 1795, recognizes the existence of a Fort 
 at this site before. A French Fort may have been erected here 
 while the French occupied the country. 
 
 Capt. Bradley, with a company of fifty men, and some pieces 
 of artillery, occupied the Fort for some time. Fort Dearborn was 
 'erected on the bank of the lake, south of Chicago river, and was
 
 112 tnv or CHICAGO. 
 
 enclosed by a strong stockade. It had two block-houses on tfie 
 south side, and a sallying port, or a subterranean passage, from 
 the parade-ground to the river. 
 
 John Kinsie and family settled in this place, on the north side 
 of the river, the same year. His was the first American family? 
 except those attached t(f the garrison, that resided in Chicago. 
 
 Mr. Kinsie was an Indian trader, and a very respectable man. 
 He resided here many years, and raised a very worthy and re- 
 spectable family. 
 
 This was the first^year that Chicago received an electric shock 
 from the American battery. It enjoyed, after this period, a more 
 conspicuous place on the maps, and the public commenced to 
 know the location of Chicago; but the great West at that day, 
 fitfy years back, was like a great giant sleeping in the cradle; 
 and Chicago slept quietly with it for many years. 
 
 A colony of Americans, known as Lee's settlement,was formed 
 near the place, where the canal enters the south branch of the 
 Chicago river, and on the 7th of April, 1812, before the war 
 with Great Britain was declared, a band of Winnebago Indians 
 attacked it, and killed two men, Mr. White and a Frenchman. 
 All the rest escaped to the fort in Chicago. We may recon this 
 the first installment of Indian war in this place. 
 
 War had been ^declared, and^ Gen. Hull was in command in 
 the North West. An order had been sent by a friendly Potto- 
 wattamie chief, Cat Fish; from Gen. Hull to Capt. Heald, com- 
 manding the fort at Chicago, and delivered on the 7th August, 
 1812, informing the Captain of war being declared, and to evac- 
 uate the post if practicable, and to distribute the property among 
 the Indians. 
 
 This friendly chief urged strongly on the officers not to leave 
 the Fort; as, if they did, the Indians would immediately destroy 
 them, It seems the officers were not at a good understanding
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 113 
 
 with each other, which was one cause of the disaster. Mr. Kin- 
 sie, who knew well the Indian character, warmly entreated the 
 Captain not to trust himself and whites to the fury of the Indi- 
 ans. 
 
 Capt. Heald said he had confidence in the Indians,and trusted 
 himself and command to their savage ferocity. 
 
 Capt. Wm. Wayne Wells, of Fort Wayne, arrived at Chicago 
 on the 13th of August, with fifteen friendly Miama Indians, as 
 guards for the troops. The wife of Capt. Heald was either the 
 sister or niece of Capt. Wells,which was one cause, among oth- 
 ers, for his assistance in this crisis, by which he lost his life. 
 
 Mr. Kinsie and family had great influence with the Indians. 
 He had been residing among them for many years, and his kind- 
 ness and honest deportment to them, had endeared them to him 
 and family, in a particular and especial manner; and for whom 
 most of the chiefs, and many of the warriors, would risk their 
 lives. 
 
 The family of Kinsie, were put in a boat for St. Joseph, but 
 did not go. It was thought advisable for Mr. Kinsie and his 
 oldest son, to remain with the troops, as their popularity with the 
 Indians might save the whites. 
 
 Thus arranged, the troops, with several women and children, 
 marched out of the fort on a fine summer morning, the 15th 
 Aug., 1812, with Capt. Wells and fifteen Miami Indians as 
 guards. Capt. Heald's command consisted of fifty-four regulars 
 and twelve militia-men. 
 
 The officers were, Capt. Heald, Lieut, Helm, and Ensign 
 George Ronan, with Isaac Voorhies. Mrs. Helm, the wife 
 of Lieut. Helm, was mounted on horseback, and^ saw and 
 suffered such savage atrocities, that female never did before. 
 
 The Indians, mostly Pottawottamies, to the amount of four or 
 five hundred, promised to protect the expedition to Fort Wayne,
 
 CITY OP CHICAGO. 
 
 ao which place they attempted to march. The corps moved south 
 on the beach of the lake, about one and a half miles, when the 
 Indians, the promised protectors, commenced an assault on them 
 and seized the baggage- wagons, women and children. 
 
 The troops under Capt. Heald made a brave and determined 
 resistance, and fought the Indian warriors with the most desper-. 
 ate courage. They often drove the Indians from the ground they 
 occupied, but being so numerous, the savages soon filled up the 
 space again. 
 
 At last, Capt. Heald ordered off his remaining troops to an 
 eminence, and agreed to surrender. The whites lost 26 regu- 
 lars, and all the 12 militia-men, Also, two women and twelve 
 children were filled. 
 
 Capt. Wells was killed, and his heart cut to pieces and distri- 
 buted among the different tribes of Indians. One young Indian 
 murdered twelve helpless children in a wagon, 
 
 Mrs. Helm, the step-daughter of Mr. Kensie, behaved thro'- 
 out this bloody tragedy, with as much true courage and female 
 firmness as any Roman matron ever did, and has described the 
 horrid scene with sincere pathos. 
 
 In the hurry of the surrender, the wounded were not provided 
 for, and they had inflicted on them horrid butcheries, and were 
 all destroyed. 
 
 The prisoners were distributed among the tribes, and general- 
 ly ransomed at high prices. All the Kinsie family were saved 
 by almost a miracle, and they and their descendants, are hailed 
 at this day, as specimens of the respectable pioneers of Illinois. 
 The Indians burnt the fort, and kept possession of the country to 
 the close of the War. 
 
 So it is; Chicago has been visited by blood, as well as prosper- 
 ity. A monurnent^sh ould be erected on this batttle-ground ii> 
 honor of the slain.
 
 % 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 115 
 
 Fort Dearborn was re-buik in 1816. Is 1818 only two white 
 families, Kinsie, and Willmette, resided in Chicago, and G. S, 
 Hubbard, a single man, then, also located himself there at the 
 same time. 
 
 The original northern boundary of Illinois Territory, was a 
 line running due west,from the southern bend of Lake Michigan, 
 to the Mississippi; but our talented and efficient delegate in Con- 
 gress, the Hon. N. Pope, had the line extended to latitude 42 
 30', North. By this act of Congress, which passed in 1818, a 
 tract of land was added to this State that cannot be surpassed , and 
 embraced the site of Chicago. Without this act, the site of this 
 city would be in Wisconsin. 
 
 An extraordinary grant of land was given by the United States 
 in 1827, to the State of Illinois, to enable the State to construct 
 the Illinois and Michigan canal. No canal in America is so im- 
 portant as the above, in connecting the Gulf of Mexico with the 
 Atlantic, by inland navigation. 
 
 This improvement was the first great impetus this city experi- 
 enced, in arriving at her great and grand destiny. Our mem- 
 bers in Congress, Edwards, Thomas and Cook, deserve the grat- 
 itude of the people, for their wisdom and exertions in obtaining 
 the above grant of land. 
 
 In the summer of 1829, the canal commissioners caused the 
 lots to be surveyed on the land of the State, and in the next year 
 they were sold. The commissioners named the streets, and the 
 aborigines named the town. Before this fortunate event, what 
 few citizens that were there were squatters on the State lands, and 
 were unsettled and rather migratory. But as soon as the titles 
 to property were secured, improvements commenced slowly. 
 The first map of the town, bears date of 4th Aug., 1830, and is 
 recorded. In the year 1829, the families in town ranged between 
 six and ten exclusive of the garrison.
 
 116 CITY OP CHICAGO. 
 
 In the forepart of the year 1831-, Cook county was organized 
 by the Legislature, while it sat at Vandalia; and was so called in 
 honor of the late Dan'l. P. Cook, 
 
 At that time, Chicago did not contain many more than one 
 dozen families, besides the garrison. Fort Dearborn was occu- 
 pied by two companies of infantry, under the command of Maj. 
 Towle. 
 
 In the early part of this year, F. J. V. Owen and R. J. 
 Hamilton, Esqrs., made their appearance in this wooden town. 
 Col. Owen was Indian Agent, and Col. Hamilton enjoyed 
 many county offices. Both these gentlemen were worthy and 
 excellent characters. Col, Owen is now dead; while Col. Ham- 
 ilton is a living monument of a worthy and respectable pioneer. 
 
 IrMSTov. of this year, 1831, the schooner Merengo arrived in 
 Chicago, from Detroit, which was hailed by the citizens as the 
 ne plus ultra of great events. 
 
 The Circuit and County Courts were organized and held there 
 first sessions in Chicago this year. 
 
 The construction of the canal connecting Lake Michigan with 
 the waters of the Mississippi, occupied the serious attention of 
 the people of Illinois, from the year 1819 until it was completed 
 in 1848. 
 
 There is no improvement in the United States, of the length 
 of this canal, that is so important as it is. 
 
 It was a low ebb in the pecuniary affairs of the State, and the 
 General Assembly of the State, in 1843, made arrangements 
 that the bond holders should finish the canal, and to take it, the 
 tolls, lands, and all, to remunerate themselves. An agreement 
 was made, and under it the canal was completed in 1848. Soon 
 the tolls and lands will pay the bondholders, and the canal again 
 revert to the State, It was one of the wisest acts of the Legis- 
 lature, and while the canal was in construction, much money was
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUSTHY. 117 
 
 expended on it, and Chicago thereby, was greatly benefitted. 
 From a report of the State Engineer and Surveyor of the ca- 
 nals of the State of New York, for the year 1853, the naviga- 
 tion of the lakes is 1,603 miles, and the lake coast is 5,000; of 
 which 3,000 are in the United States. Whole length of steam- 
 boat navigation of the Mississippi is 4,236 miles. It will be 
 readily seen, that this canal, connecting this great extent of 'nav- 
 igation together, is the most important link of inland navigation 
 in the Union. 
 
 Also towards the completion of the canal in 1848, the Western 
 country commenced to take that extraordinary career of growth 
 and prosperity, that has astonished everybody, and this city also, 
 began then, its unparalelled impetus to prosperity and greatness. 
 The sales of the public lands in 1835, had previously done much 
 to the rise of the country and Chicago; and the harbor and river 
 convention, held in this city, in 1847, also did much to the ad- 
 vancement of this place. Many intelligent persons attended this 
 meeting saw the advantages of Chicago, and proclaimed them 
 4 'from the house tops," throughout the country. 
 
 In the spring of 1832, the Black Hawk war distressed the cit- 
 izens of Chicago very much. They were then weak, and un- 
 prepared, and uaccustomed to Indian warfare, and were troubled 
 when I knew there was no danger. Nevertheless, I sent them 
 a mounted squadron of troops, under the command of Major 
 Bailey, to protect the town and the settlements around it. Under 
 my order, Col. Buckmaster was also commanding a squadron of 
 mounted men, to guard the settlements near Napier's Grove and 
 the Big Woods. 
 
 Many citizens were forted in Dearborn and Chicago, during 
 the war, and fed out of the public corn crib. It is the last effort 
 of Indians to attack a garrison, when there are weak settlements 
 near them.
 
 118 CITY OF CHICAGO. 
 
 Gen. Scott landed with his troops for the Black Hawk war, in 
 Chicago, 8th July, 1832, and proceeded west to the scenes of 
 war. 
 
 An estray pen was the first public improvement, erected on 
 the south-east corner of the public square of this city, in 1832; 
 and after the proper adjustment of the price, it cost twelve dol- 
 lars. On this same square, twenty years after, stands the magni- 
 ficent court house, which attracts in the highest degree, the ad- 
 miration of the public. 
 
 On the 10th August, 1833, five trustees for the town of Chica- 
 go were elected to manage the public business, and the voters 
 were only twenty-eight, all told. In three years thereafter, a 
 charter for the city was procured, and Mayor and Aldermen e- 
 lected, by a vote of 703. W. B. Ogden was the first Mayor. 
 
 By a census of July, 1837, this city contained a population of 
 4,665, and also contained 4 ware-houses; 398, dwellings; 29 dry 
 good stores; 5 hard-ware stores; 19 groceries and provision stores; 
 19 taverns; 26 groceries of drink; 17 lawyers, and 5 churches. 
 
 On the 26th Nov., 1833, the first public journal was establish- 
 ed here by John Calhoun, Esq. This was the first newspaper 
 established in the northern section of Illinois. 
 
 At this time, only twenty years thereafter, there are thirty 
 distinguished and ably edited papers established in the same city. 
 Seven daily papers are issued, one of which is German; two tri- 
 weekly; fifteen w r eekly; four monthly, and one semi-monthly; all 
 in this city. In all the State, there are one hundred and fifty- 
 four papers published, and this city contains almost one-fifth of 
 the whole number. A people, whose intelligence and liberal 
 and enlightened policy induces them to sustain so many public 
 journals, deserve the highest commendations of the public. It 
 is wisdom in the citizens of Chicago, to foster and support the 
 press in such an extraordinary liberal manner, as they do in this
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 119 
 
 city. A great element in the unparalelled growth and prosperity 
 of Chicago, is the talented and efficient press of this city. Ev- 
 ery resource of the West, and every improvement of the city and 
 country, far and near, are heralded by the press throughout the 
 whole length and breadth of the land, in streams of vivid intelli- 
 gence, that reaches everybody. It is the power of the press, in 
 proper hands, that makes the tyrants tremble on their thrones, 
 and succumb to public opinion. And it is the press, in the hands 
 of an intelligent corps editorial, that is doing wonders for the 
 whole Union, as well as for the city of Chicago. 
 
 On the 19th Sept., 1835, the first fire company was organized 
 in this city. 
 
 In 1833, and appropriation of $30,000 was made, to improve 
 the harbor at Chicago, and the work commenced the same sea-- 
 son. A light-house had been previously erected here. 
 
 On Sept. 26, 1833, a treaty was made with the Pottawottamie 
 Indians in this place, and & great amount of land was bought from 
 them. Not long afterwards, the Indians were removed to the 
 west side of the Missouri river. By the treaties, concluded at 
 Rock Island in 1832, by Gen. Scott and myself, the government 
 obtained all the lands the Indians had in the State. 
 
 The policy, under the circumstances is the best; as the Indians 
 will not identify themselves with the whites, and the two distinct 
 races, will not live together in peace. It is a hard necessity to 
 drive off the Indians; but it cannot be avoided. 
 
 The commerce and business of the country, require more rail- 
 roads to enter Chicago, and to make it a common railroad centre; 
 than any other locality in the West. Nature intended it to be 
 the great metropolis of all the vast region of country between the 
 Rocky and Allegahany Mountains, and its destiny is being fast 
 accomplishing. 
 
 The south-west extremity of the lakes, projecting so far west.
 
 120 CITY OP CHICAGO, 
 
 into the heart of the great Valley of the Llississippi, and ap- 
 proaching so near the waters of that great river itself, that Chi- 
 cago is directly in the route of commerce between the waters of 
 the Mississispi and the lakes; and also between the Gulf of Mex- 
 ico and the Atlantic Ocean by inland communication. Thus it 
 is, that this city has a kind of natural monopoly of the commerce 
 of the interior of North America, and being also situated in the 
 midst of the most fertile and productive soil in the United States; 
 enjoys thereby within her legitimate province all the elements of 
 greatness. 
 
 All this is demonstrated within a few years by the growth of 
 this city in proportion to the rise and progress of the western 
 valley. While the country was poor, and sparcely populated, 
 this city also lingered in the cradle. And I deem it not a wild 
 prediction to say, when the West contains twenty million of in- 
 habitants, Chicago will then embrace one million of souls within 
 her limits. 
 
 Although the West, and Chicago, are only commencing their 
 brilliant career in their great and grand destiny, yet there are 
 already great improvements made to facilitate the western com- 
 merce, and to advance the growth and prosperity of this city. 
 It will almost stagger belief, when we say that there are thirteen 
 large trunk railroads centering in this city at this time; and all 
 of them have various branches, or feeders attached to them. All 
 the entire length of main roads entering this city is 2,799 miles, 
 of the above 1,745 miles are finished and located in Illinois; 140 
 in Wisconsin; and 919 constructed in Michigan, Indiana an$ 
 Ohio. Branch roads entering Chicago, by means of the tru 
 roads, are 1213 miles in length, and all completed. All th'i 
 roads finished and to be constructed in a short time, entering Chi- 
 cago from almost all points of the compass, the lake excepted, 
 amount to more than four thousand miles. All these roads that
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 121 
 
 are finished, do an extraordinary business, and all the time in- 
 creasing their efficiency to accommodate the trade and travel of 
 the great region of country between the Rocky and Alleghany 
 Mountains. 
 
 Ninety-two trains enter and leave the city each day, except 
 Sundays. There are more than one thousand miles of railroads 
 now completed in this State, and before the end of the present 
 year, more than another thousand will be added to the number, 
 all within Illinois. Almost all the roads have their termini in 
 this city, conveying into it the commerce and wealth of thousands 
 of miles around. 
 
 It would require a volume to describe all these roads, which 
 are centering from all parts, except the lakes, into this city. The 
 Central railroad is the Captain General the ne plus ultra, of all 
 the roads; not only in the United States, but on the globe. It is 
 a matter of proud satisfaction to Illinois, that this young State 
 enjoys the greatest railroad improvement, and Chicago is honor- 
 ed with one of the northern termini of this road. It is 704 
 miles long, passing north and south, through the centre of the 
 Valley of the Mississippi, over a country of such extraordi- 
 nary fertility of soil and productiveness, that it cannot be sur- 
 passed. Already two great and important roads are constructed 
 one to Alton, and the other to Rock Island, which connect this 
 city to the Mississippi. And others will soon be constructed to 
 the Mississippi. 
 
 The force engaged last winter on the Central railroad was 
 J^OOO men 200 teams, and 400 men are employed on the 245 
 BfcWaf the road completed. The road is to be finished Febru- 
 ary, 18^. 
 
 Thestjjeveral roads, connecting Chicago with the Mississippi 
 river, gives this city the great and important commerce throughout 
 Valley of the West, Others are built and in the course of 
 21
 
 122 CITY OP CHICAGO. 
 
 construction, to the north and west, to tap the commerce of Wis- 
 consin and the mineral region around Lake Superior, Several 
 roads are also completed and building, running east from this 
 city, towards the Atlantic, and to the Ohio and Wabash basins. 
 And the country all around this city, is checkered and intersected 
 in almost every direction, with ready made and finished rail- 
 roads. 
 
 One road, for its being a kind of patriarch in the railroad fam- 
 ily, deserves a short notice. The Galena and Chicago Union 
 railroad, was the first road constructed in the State; except a 
 short one; built in the American Bottom, by George E- Walker, 
 Sam'l. B. Chandler, myself, and others, in the year 1837. This 
 road, from Chicago to Galena, had almost as much trouble to 
 make itself and start the others, as Moses had to get the chil- 
 dren of Israel out of Egypt; but with this difference: those pur- 
 sueing Moses, were destroyed in the Red Sea; while the roads, 
 following the example of the Chicago and Galena road, prosper; 
 and I hope, will "flourish in immortal youth." 
 
 This road was a pillar of fire by night, and a cloud by day, to 
 guide the other roads to the "promised land." 
 
 It had to work its way, (or rather to bcgjts way) through all 
 sorts of difficulties; but with extraordinary perseverance and an 
 iron will of the stock holders, it was at last completed, and in 
 August last, eleven per cent, was declared dividends on the stock. 
 All these roads pay well, and the stock is at or above par. 
 
 The depots to accommodate these roads at Chicago, are of 
 magnificent dimensions and proportions. The depot of the Cen- 
 tral railroad, erected and in progress of construction, in Lake 
 Michigan and the city of Chicago, is among the most stupendous 
 and magnificent works of the age With a sullen obstinacy of 
 purpose, it takes by force its stand, in Lake Michigan, and 
 dispells thirty-three acres of the water of the Lake* and there
 
 SKETCHES OF TUB COUNTRY. 123 
 
 makes its location, under the protection of Providence and the 
 Company, forevermore. 
 
 The break- water, to keep back the waves of old Michigan, will 
 cost $500,000, and the building for the depot $250,000, in all, 
 the great sum of $750,000, will be expended on the work by the 
 Central railroad company. One passenger station house, will be 
 450 feet long, by 165 wide, including a car-shed. One part of 
 this building will be appropriated for the offices and passenger 
 rooms, and will be three stories high. A frieght house, 600 by 
 100 feet, and a grain depot 200 by 100 feet, and 100 feet high 
 to the top of the elevator, calculated to hold 500,000 bushels, 
 will stand in this grand depot. Eight tracks and cars will run in- 
 to the passenger house three into the freight house, and two 
 into the grain house. All these buildings are being constructed 
 of the rocks from the famous Joliet Quarry. This great work 
 was commenced in December, 1852, and will be completed in 
 1854; which speaks in an eminent manner, the extraordinary 
 character of the western people. 
 
 A depot of the Rock Island and Chicago railroad is about to 
 be erected on the south side of the city, at a cost of $60,000. 
 Another grand depot is located on the. north of the city to accom- 
 modate the cars from the north and west; which is about to be 
 enlarged at an expense of at least in all, of $100,000. A back- 
 woodsman, seeing all these cars entering and leaving the Garden 
 City, and all the depots, passengers and business done here with 
 such rapid movements, would almost think all the business all 
 the cars all the people, and every thing else, were assembled 
 here together in Chicago, and "there was nothing, no where 
 else!" 
 
 All these great improvements of railroads, add much to the 
 prosperity of this city; but the Lakes and the Illinois and Michi- 
 gan canal entering them at this city, are among the great pillars
 
 124 CITY or CHICAGO. 
 
 of the growth and prosperity of Chicago. It is surprising, the 
 great and growing commerce of the lakes. There is more com- 
 merce of the United States on the lakes than all our foreign 
 commerce put together. 
 
 It is stated to be six hundred thousand tons of floating com- 
 merce on our inland seas, In 1850, it was estimated by the cen- 
 sus, that the amount of commerce on all the lakes, were three 
 hundred and sixty-two million of dollars, and in 1854 it may 
 safely be placed at five hundred million. In 1829, the tonnage 
 on the lakes \vas only 5,500 tons; but the next year it rose to 
 20,000. It has progressed in proportion, as the country around 
 these lakes, grew and prospered. It is estimated that the Am- 
 rican States bordering on the lakes, will contain 22,000,000 peo- 
 ple in twenty years; and the lakes will embrace more than five 
 million of tons in their commerce. 
 
 The following table will show what great extent of lake navi- 
 gation concentrates towards the city of Chicago: 
 
 Lakes, 
 
 Length, Breadth, 
 
 Depth, 
 
 Elevation. 
 
 Superior, 
 
 335 
 
 miles 160 miles 
 
 988 feet 
 
 627ft. 
 
 Michigan, 
 
 360 
 
 108 
 
 900 
 
 587 
 
 Huron, 
 
 20$ 
 
 160 
 
 900 
 
 574 
 
 Erie, 
 
 250 
 
 80 
 
 84 
 
 555 
 
 Ontario, 
 
 180 
 
 65 
 
 500 
 
 262 
 
 A most sir 
 
 igular T 
 
 )henomenon attends 
 
 the lakes. 
 
 A kind of 
 
 periodical rise takes place in them. The waters rise for several 
 years, and then subside again. Some number of years past, the 
 water of the lakes rose gradually, for several years, and then 
 receded again. Great quantities of timber were destroyed by 
 the rise ot the waters around the shores of the lakes, and the 
 water came up within a few feet of the top of the bank at Chi- 
 cago. It is stated that the waters of the lakes are never entirely 
 stationary, always rising or falling. It is several years before
 
 IOC 
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 
 
 , . , 
 
 the water comes to its highest tide in the lakes, and then subsides 
 in the same gradual manner. The law governing this phenome- 
 non, is not known, so far as I am informed. 
 
 It is estimated that the country drained by the lakes, contain 
 513,513 square miles. The Garden City stands at the western 
 termini of the navigation and commerce of all these lakes; and 
 having also the termini of so many important railroads, and the 
 finest canal in the Union, it is not surprising that it has increased 
 so much in so short a time; and in a few years more, it will rank 
 among the largest cities in the United States. 
 
 In 1840, this city contained by the census, 4,479 inhabitants. 
 In 1850, it contained 28,773, and in 1S53, 60,6,52. In this pro- 
 portion, how long will it be in rising to its grand destiny? It 
 may not increase as fast when it contains its hundreds of thou- 
 sands; but still it will grow. No city in the West, that has taken 
 a stand at all, has ever ceased to grow. 
 
 Look at the rise and growth of Pittsburgh, Cincinnati, Louis- 
 ville, St. Louis, Cleveland and Buffalo; and why should not the 
 Garden City still rise, increase and flourish, in nearly the same 
 proportion that it has done since the year 1840. 
 
 All the elements of the greatness and grandeur of Chicago, 
 are in progress, and will ultimately produce the result as above 
 stated: that the Garden Ciiy will be one amongst the greatest Em- 
 poriums in the Union. 
 
 Another advantage, literally of vital importance to this city, is 
 its extraordinary health. The breezes sweeping over the almost 
 unbounded expanse of the pure and limpid waters of the lakes, 
 destroy almost all impurities in the atmosphere near them, and 
 render the cities near the lakes healthy. The statistics of Chi- 
 cago show last year, not much more deaths than one in sixty; 
 which is exceedingly healthy. No one need complain of the 
 health of this city. As many children are born and raised in 
 
 22
 
 .26 
 
 CITY OP CHICAGO. 
 
 the Garden City, as any city of the same size, in America. 
 
 x#fany of the resources and energies of the West being bro't 
 into active operation by an energetic population, this city has in- 
 creased with an extraordinary rapidity in many improvements, as 
 well as in population. In 1834, only one single mail per week, 
 and that from Niles, Michigan, reached this city; and at this 
 time, there are fourteen daily mails entering it, besides some 
 weekly and tri-weekly. And the receipts of the Chicago Post 
 Office, for one year, ending last December, were $130,000. Let- 
 ters average 30,000 daily, that pass through this office, and 75 
 bags daily, containing 45,000 newspapers. It is astonishing the 
 Post Office business done in this city! It is evidence of the pros- 
 perity arid intelligence of the people. 
 
 In the year 1832, the sum of $357 78, was the entire amount 
 of the town taxes, and at this day the city pays $132,752 03 
 taxes. 
 
 All the assessed real and personal property of Chicago, for 
 1853,were $16,841 ,8Sl;and the whole county of Cook, 22,929,- 
 637, according to the Auditor's report. On this sum the State 
 and county tax were $245,067 07. All the taxable wealth of 
 the county for 1852, was $12,085,045; making an increase in 
 one year, of $10,844,692. These are facts from the official re- 
 port of the Auditor of the State, and must be correct; which is 
 astonishing in the rise of property in a county in one single year. 
 
 The monied business of Chicago is in the hands of nine sound 
 and solvent Banks, and seven large and extensive private bank- 
 ing and brokerage houses. It is estimated that there was busi- 
 ness done in money matters last year, in this city, to the amount 
 of thirty-five million of dollars; and still money is always in de- 
 mand at the rate of ten per cent, interest, per annum. The ag- 
 gregate of the public stocks of these nine banks in the hands of 
 the Auditor, are $810,449, and their paper out in circulation is
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 127 
 
 only $759,7000. All the resources of these nine banks are $1,- 
 670.500. 
 
 A report of the Auditor, of the 3rd April, 1854, states the 
 following favorable condition of the Banks of the whole State; 
 and under the General Banking Law, by the proper manage- 
 ment of the Directors, there cannot exist the least doubt of the 
 solvency of the Banks; 
 
 Paper in circulation, $2,283,526; resources, $6,305,978 86, 
 and specie on hand, $365,152 04. The Bank notes in circula- 
 tion must be good, while such a condition of the Banks of the 
 State exist. 
 
 The rise of property in this city is extraordinary. Lot 80 was 
 sold for $100 in 1833, and now it is worth $64,000. Walcot's 
 Addition to the city, was bought in 1830, for $130; now it is 
 worth one and a quarter million of dollars! P. F. W. Peck 
 bought lot 4 in block 18, for $80, in 1831; which is now asses- 
 sed at $42,500 for the taxes. In 1833, Mr. Peck paid $3 50 
 taxes, and for the year 1853, he paid for all his assessments, 
 $5,000. 
 
 These are but a small portion of the cases reported in the ex- 
 cellent pamphlet, of 67 pages, from the office of the Democratic 
 Press, at Chicago, showing the unparalelled rise of property in 
 this city, I had the pleasure to receive much information in re- 
 lation to the Garden City from many of the presses of that place, 
 and particularly from the above pamphlet, which was written 
 with much ability, by Messrs. Scripps & Bross, residing in the 
 city; so that the general accuracy of the statistics will not be 
 questioned. 
 
 In this city, telegraph wires are in speaking connection with 
 all the great cities of the Union. Whatever of importance is 
 transacted in any of them before, and at 6 o'clock P. M., may be 
 read in the next morning papers of the city.
 
 128 CITY or CHICAGO. 
 
 It is estimated that there are eighty -five miles of plank road 
 made, connecting this city with the country. Plank roads are an 
 excellent modern invention, about midway between Macadamised 
 and railroads, and is good evidence of the civilization and intel- 
 ligence of a people. 
 
 A strange invention was discovered by the people of this city, 
 establishing the Drainage Commission. 
 
 Great power is given by the act of incorporating this commis- 
 sion, and should be exercised with wisdom and discretion. Its 
 operation is confined to a few Townships in Cook county, west 
 of Chicago, where the country much needed draining. The 
 members of this corporation, have the power to drain and im- 
 prove, the section of country under their jurisdiction, as they please, 
 and have a lien on the improved lands for payment. They are 
 authorized to make bridges, turnpikes, and all such improve- 
 ments, and charge toll on them to remunerate themselves for 
 making the improvements. They can decide where the public 
 good requires the improvements, and then do it at the expense of 
 the improved country. This company has done much good to the 
 country, and particularly to the health of Chicago. 
 
 Nine or ten bridges are erected over the Chicago river, on cer- 
 tain of the main streets, which are so constructed that all vessels 
 are permitted to pass through them; but a popular vote of the 
 city has been recently taken, that tunnels under the river, will be 
 constructed, in place of the bridges over them, and remove the 
 annoyance of the bridges to commerce. It is a novelty in a peo- 
 ple to go under a river, rather than over it. 
 
 Within this city there are 159 miles of planked side-walks, 
 and 27 of planked streets. And also, this young city can boast 
 of four miles of wharfs, and six miles of sewers already put 
 down. 
 
 All the business of the West is fast assuming a greatness and
 
 SKETPHFS OE THE COUNTRY. 129 
 
 importance, of which the imagination of man could have formed 
 no previous idea. 
 
 In Chicago, the Court House is a splendid and magnificent ed- 
 ifice. It stands in great majesty and grandeur, on the Public 
 Square, and adds much to the appearance and beauty of the city. 
 It is built of cut stone, shipped from New York, and cost one 
 hundred and ten thousand dollars. It is three stories high, in- 
 cluding the basement, and its proportions are inexact accordance 
 with the most perfect models of architecture. A splendid apart- 
 ment in this Temple of Justice, is appropriated to the city authori- 
 ties. The Mayor and Aldermen hold their sessions in this cham- 
 ber, which is richly decorated. 
 
 In this Hall, are suspended on the walls, the portraits of all 
 the Mayors of the city, and some other dignitaries. Mny courts 
 and many offices occupy this palace of justice, and all have 
 space and convenience for their respective vocations. On the top 
 of this splendid edifice, are two domes of exquisite design and 
 workmanship, covering the extremes, while in the centre rises a 
 tower of proportionate altitude, and finished in the most tasty and 
 elegant manner. From this elevation may be enjoyed a splendid 
 and magnificent view of the city and lake. From this pinnicle, 
 all Chicago is extended before the eye, with all the splendid edi- 
 fices, churches, steeples and shipping in the harbor; mixed with 
 the buildings; together with oceans of prairie and lake water. 
 
 The expanse of the waters of the lake is on one side; while 
 the prairie lye stretched out on the other. This scene is the more 
 interesting, as the same site where stands this great city, was, 
 only fifteen or eighteen years before, occupied by savage wig- 
 wams. 
 
 Omnibusses, with almost all other improvements, have found 
 their way into this city. Eighteen are in daily operation, and 
 make 408 trips in the day. The whole Omnibus corps travel in 

 
 190 CITY OF CHICAGO- 
 
 a day, 802 miles. During this summer, several more aro to be 
 established. 
 
 Gas is used in this city to a great amount, and a company is 
 organized with a capital of $t 07,400, to furnish it. This is an- 
 other evidence, that the good people of Chicago prefer light to 
 darkness. Five miles, ,and 2,978 feet of large gas pipes, have 
 been laid under ground in this city, the last year, and the total of 
 the smaller pipes laid throughout the streets, is thirteen miles 
 and 638 feet. Seven thousand five hundred and thirty-two burn- 
 ers of gas are used; together with 209 public lamps. A new 
 gas holder is to be completed this spring. The tank will be 104 
 feet in diameter and 20 feet deep. All this capacious work is 
 being increased to supply the pressing wants of the public. 
 
 In this city, on part of the ground formerly occupied by Fort 
 Dearborn, is ereected a fine and stately building for the humane 
 purpose of a Marine Hospital. N'o place could be selected with 
 more taste and judgment for this splendid building than the a- 
 bove. 
 
 The liberal spirit and the mechanical genius that established 
 the Water Works at Chicago, deserve the highest commenda- 
 tions of the people. It is an enterprise, whether we look to the 
 magnificent building, or to the great benefit to the city, that com- 
 mands our admiration and gratitude to the founders. The water 
 is taken from the lake, some distance from the shore, and distri- 
 buted in pipes over the city, to accommodate the citizens. 
 
 I am indebted to the politeness of the Civil Engineer, E. Wil- 
 lard SH.th, Esq., for much of the following information: 
 
 "".ne steam engine to force the water into the reservoir, was 
 manufactured in New York, at the Morgan Iron Works, and ex- 
 erts 200 horse power. Its cylinder is 44 inches diameter, and 
 the stroke of the piston is 9 feet. The fly-wheel is 24 feet diam- 
 eter and weighs 24,000 pounds. This engine has every thing
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COtTJfTnY. 131 
 
 n the just and exact proportions, and works "like a thing of life. 1 ' 
 [t is a low pressure engine, and cost $25,000. 
 
 This engine is capable of furnishing daily, over 1,500,000 
 gallons of water, which will supply one hundred thousand inhab- 
 itants. The engine presents a model of the highest order of 
 mechanism, and exhibits an excellent specimen of that refined 
 and elegant, as well as efficient and substantial talent, that is on- 
 ly to be found with the American mechanics. In the same build- 
 ing, is a smaller engine, excellent also, in its kind; and known as 
 the "Duplicate Engine." It is a reserve corps in case the main 
 army is defeated; it then will come into action. It is of the high 
 pressure order, and made in Chicago by Mr. Moses. It is so 
 constructed as to carry on the water works, until the main army 
 rallies, and comes again to the charge. 
 
 In the north end of the building is the boiler, which is so short 
 and thick, that to the eye of a Sucker, is a curiosity. It was 
 covered when I saw it, to retain the heat. It is only 30 feet long 
 and 9 feet thick. It looked some like a live monster breathing 
 steam out of its mouth. 
 
 The engine house is an elegant structure, composed of brick, 
 and finished in the beautiful syle of the modern Italian architec- 
 ture. It is in front, (wings and main building) 142 feet long; 
 and runs back 34 feet. The main building is two stories high, 
 and on it is a tower 14 feet square, and 140 feet high. The cor- 
 nice of the tower is decorated in the most elegant modern style, 
 and is an object of admiration throughout the city. The roof is 
 formed of bars of iron, and covered with plates of zinc. 
 
 The Reservoir building is two stories high, and the floor is el- 
 evated thre feet above the street. The first story is composed of 
 cut stone; and the second of stone and brick. 
 
 The tank is capable of holding five hundred thousand gallons 
 of water, and will be, it and the building, when completed, 90
 
 132 
 
 CITY OF CHICAGO, 
 
 feet high. The water in the reservoir is 83 feet above the surface 
 of the lake. These Water Works cost $360,000; and would at 
 this day, cost about one-half million of dollars. They are inten- 
 ded to supply 1,500,000 gallons daily, when there are onejiundred 
 thousand inhabitants in Chicago. 
 
 There are laid down about 30 miles of distributive pipe thro'- 
 out the city, and conected with 116 fire hydrants at the corners 
 of the streets. The reservoir is located south of Adams street, 
 and w r est of Clark. The pipes conveying the water from the 
 engine to the reservoir are made of boiler iron. 
 
 It cannot scarcely be imagined that any improvement is, or can 
 be constructed, of more permanent and substantial advantage to 
 the city than these Water Works. 
 
 In August, 1852, the population of Chicago was 38,000, and 
 in December, 1853, it was 60,652 an increase of 57 per cent., 
 in fifteei months. According to the last census, in the city there 
 were 7,627 dwellings, and 9,435 families. All the stores and 
 business places were 1,184, and schools, 54 churches, 61 and 
 manufactories 196. 
 
 Marine population and the vessels, they were on when the 
 census w r as taken, is as follows. 
 Vessels in Port. JVo. of hands on board. 
 
 7 steamers, - - - 182 
 
 8 propellers, - 183 
 
 9 barques. - - - 95 
 33 brigs, - 324 
 74 schooners, 556 
 38 canal boats, - '*** 174 
 2 sloops, - 4 
 2 dredge boats, pile driver, floating steam 
 
 elevator, - 14 
 Total, - - - J,#J1.
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COtJNTRY. 133 
 
 At one time last winter, the following vessels were laid up in 
 the harbor of Chicago: 
 
 Steamers, 9 
 
 Propellers, - 12 
 
 Barques, " >* , ** 
 
 Brigs, - 30 
 
 Schooners, 83 
 
 Total, 139 
 
 What a great amount of commerce is enjoyed by this city! 
 Almost a similar growth of the learned professions is experi- 
 enced in the Garden City. One hundred and fifty-six lawyers, 
 and one hundred and six physicians and surgeons, reside in this 
 city, and practice their professions. Fifty or sixty divines, are 
 stationed here; "to do, not their own will, but the will of Him in 
 whose name they officiate." It is stated there are ten Colleges 
 and High .Schools in the city, and thirty-one teachers, affording 
 gratuitous instruction daily, to 4,000 pupils. 
 
 And it is also stated, that there are five Lodges of Odd Fel- 
 lows with 500 members, one degree lodge and one encampment. 
 There are here six Masonic Halls, and 300 members. One 
 Division of the Sons of Temperance. The fire department com- 
 prises twelve companies, with more than six hundred working 
 members, and possesses eight good engines, three hose carriages 
 and one hook and ladder company, all in good order. 
 
 It is a self-evident truth, that education must prevail among 
 the masses of the people, or otherwise the free institutions of the 
 United States cannot be permanent, or perpetual. Moreover, a 
 proper and moral education must be acquired by the people in 
 order to enable them to enjoy that noble and elevated standing 
 that the Creator intended them to occupy. The people have 
 come to the same conclusion in this city, and have exerted their 
 
 23
 
 134 CITY OP CHICAGO. 
 
 great and powerful energies to promote education. Money, 
 time and talents, expended in the advancement of education, are 
 returned to the country in a ten-fold proportion, and this city has 
 set an example that should be known and appreciated by the 
 whole community. 
 
 Upwards of four thousand children are enabled to receive dai- 
 ly instruction in the schools of Chicago. All this great number 
 receive this education free of any charge whatever. 
 
 In this city r there are three divisions established for ^chool 
 purposes, and in each there are two large and substantial school 
 edifices erected, being six in all. They are made of brick, two 
 stories high, and capable, each one, to accommodate seven hun- 
 dred children. All things, teachers and all, are amply provided 
 to instruct the pupils. These free schools are the basis of the 
 primary education in this city. Many other private schools and 
 seminaries of learning are also maintained in this city, by pri- 
 vate means, in which many pupils are instructed. 
 
 Commercial and Medical Colleges are also established in this 
 city, that are conducted by accomplished and excellent scholars. 
 Institutions of learning are also established in this city by both 
 the Roman Catholic and Methodist societies, in which the highest 
 branches of learning and theological science are taught. 
 
 In all the various departments of education, Chicago stand? 
 out prominent before the world, as a proud monument of the in- 
 telligence and enlightened policy of her citizens. In all the city 
 there are 54 schools organized. 
 
 Neither are Sunday Schools neglected, and so early as Aug., 
 1832, Messrs. Carpenter and Johnson established the first Sun- 
 day School in this place. A great number of children attend the 
 Sabbath Schools in this city, and receive instruction from pious 
 and intelligent teachers. Sunday Schools are being advocated 
 and advanced all over America, wherever a proper respect is
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 135 
 
 paid to morals and religion. Instruction is administered in these 
 schools to the conscience, and the seeds of religion are sown in 
 tender hearts. 
 
 Another evidence of the wisdom and intelligence of the citi- 
 zens of Chicago, are the many churches established in the city. 
 In any community, where the Bible and churches do not exist, 
 ignorance, misery and crime will prevail. Religion, to some ex- 
 tent, is born with man; but it, like most other blessings, needs 
 cultivation It has a tendency to improve, exalt and render hap- 
 py the human family and also, it raises, perfects and prepares 
 
 i P i n 
 man to appear before his Creator. 
 
 In the Garden City, there are upwards of sixty Christian chur- 
 ches, and one Jewish synagogue. Many of the church edifices 
 are beautiful and splendid, and all are convenient and comforta- 
 ble. 
 
 Among many other fine buildings, the second Presbyterian 
 church attracts general admiration; for the perfect symetry of 
 proportions, and elegant workmanship displayed in the design of 
 the building, and in the tasty execution of the work. It is oom- 
 posed of a kind of a brindled colored rock, which presents many 
 hues of colors between perfect black and white. A light, slen- 
 der and elegant steeple rises from the building, towering high 
 towards "the bourne, from whence no traveler returns." 
 
 The Roman Catholics and Methodists are the most numerous 
 denominations, and have each eight churches. Other denomina- 
 tions are the Baptists, Presbyterians, Congregationalists, Episco- 
 palians, Lutherians, Swedenborgeons, Protestant Methodists, 
 Unitareans, and Universal] sts, and all have churches, St. Ma- 
 ry's Cathedral is a large and elegant building, erected for both 
 comfort and respect to the Creator. Its architecture is chaste 
 and much comporting with the doctrines contained in the holy 
 gospels which are taught in it.
 
 136 CITY Or CHIOAGOe f 
 
 The Jewish synagogue is a large temple, and filled on occa- 
 sions, to overflowing with the posterity of Abraham. In their 
 worship they revere and respect the Old Testament, and are wait- 
 ing with the utmost confidence, that the Messiah, a temporal 
 King, will be sent to them, who will ^assemble them again into 
 the Holy Land, the Turks to the contrary, notwithstanding, and 
 make them once more a great nation. 
 
 In most of the new countries west, the Methodist denomina- 
 tion have generally been among the front ranks of pioneers in 
 sowing the seeds of Christianity among the emigrants^ and a- 
 loongst the ministers, the Rev. Jesse Walker stood out prominent 
 the bold, energetic and fearless champion of the Cross. Energy, 
 a restless activity, and a fearless intrepidity, were strongly 
 marked traits in his character. These characteristics, together 
 with a strong mind somewhat enthusiastic, enabled the Rev. Jes- 
 se Walker to be the foremost pioneer in preaching the gospel, in 
 many parts of the West, for many years, and in his vocation he 
 did both his itlaster's kingdom and his country great service. 
 
 Like all the branches of industry in the West, the manufacto- 
 ries of Chicago, are advancing with astonishing rapidity. All 
 the elements necessary to raise Chicago to the foremost ranks of 
 a great manufacturing emporium, exist around her in great abun- 
 dance, and are accessable with the greatest facility. 
 
 All the raw material, that can be used in factories, can be 
 transported to this city, by land or water, with the greatest ease 
 and speed, and when manufactured, the fabrics are in market in 
 this city. The great West can consume them. Why not this 
 city become as famous for its manufactures, as it is already for 
 its extraordinary commerce. 
 
 No " Sketches," or description can do justice to the factories of 
 this city, as they are more progressive than the history of them 
 can possibly be.
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 137 
 
 Some oi' the leading factories are the following, which I have 
 mostly taken from the excellent pamphlet before mentioned, of 
 Messrs. Scripps . Bross, whose accuracy may be relied upon: 
 
 A locomotive factory was recently formed in this city, with 
 8150,000, capital, that turns out two locomotives per month, all 
 of which is manufactured in this city out of the raw material. It 
 employs 200 workmen, and is in complete and harmonious oper- 
 ation in all things. Win. H. Brown, Eso^ is the President of 
 the Company. 
 
 Another is also in operation, rebuilding, repairing, and doing 
 a large business in locomotive industry. 
 
 A factory of cars, known as the "American Car Company/' 
 do an immense business in their line. About 700 cars of all clas- 
 ses were manufactured here in 15 months, which were worth 
 $450,000. It is situated on the lake, three miles south of the 
 harbor, and all the buildings and fixtures cover thirteen acres of 
 ground. About three hundred hands are employed in this fae- 
 ry, and nothing can exceed the cars they turn out, for their ele- 
 gant and exquisite finish. 
 
 "Union car Works," owned by Stone & Co., also do a great 
 business in the car line. A steam engine of 75 horse power, 
 propel the works, and consume in the year, one-half million feet 
 of timber; 600 tons of wrought iron; 1,000 tons of cast iron, 200 
 tons of coal, and employ 150 hands. 
 
 Stone & Boomer manufacture patent truss bridges, for railroads, 
 and other articles, to the gross earnings in the year, of $800,000 
 and have a capital invested in their business, to the amount of 
 8150,000. About 300 men are employed by this company, and 
 they use 2,000 tons of iron, and 5,500,000 feet of timber in the 
 year. One hundred and fifty bridges were built the last year by 
 them, on 37 railroads in Illinois, Missouri and Wisconsin, and 
 the aggregate length of these bridges was 37,000 lineal feet. 
 
 24
 
 138 
 
 CITY OF CHICAGO. 
 
 Illinois Stone and Lime Company, employ 500 men, and will 
 increase their force perhaps, 600 more during this season. One 
 of their locations is 25 miles from Chicago, on the canal, at a 
 quarry of the most beautiful milk-white lime stone that can be 
 imagined; and the other at Bridgeport, where lime kilns are lo- 
 cated. No stone in the western States can equal the white lime 
 stone found in this quarry, for their beauty and durability in build- 
 
 ***%' * 
 
 Marble Works are numerous in this city, and likewise are the 
 
 brick yards. Bricks, to the amount of twenty million were man- 
 ufactured last year, and laid up in walls; besides three million 
 more received here from Milwaukie and other lake ports, and 
 used in buildings in this city, 
 
 Chicago is becoming celebrated for the manufacture of coaches, 
 carriages, furniture, and likewise all agricultural implements. 
 Northern timber is stronger and more durable than the southern, 
 and on this considetation, and others, the wooden fabrics of this 
 city may be recommended, 
 
 Welch & Co., occupy a large factory of buggies, omnibusses 
 and coaches, on Randolph street, and have a capital of $32,009, 
 invested in the factory. More than 845,000 worth of finished 
 articles were turned out of this factory last year. Seventy work- 
 men are employed by them, and 185 carriages, coaches, &c., 
 made here in one year. 
 
 Ellithorpe & Kline, also manufacture carriages of all descrip- 
 tions, and have their factory on Randolph and Morgan streets. 
 About sixty men work for them, and the sales last year amoun- 
 ted to $15,000. 
 
 Schutter, manufactures, exclusively, lumber wagons, on Ran- 
 dolph and Franklin streets, and his motive power is steam. He 
 makes annually, about 400 wagons, and other work, valued at 
 $40,000; and employs 35 men,
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 139 
 
 Outhet made and sold 150 wagons at his factory on Franklin 
 street, last year, andemploys 18 men. 
 
 Whitbeck has erected a large brick building, four stories high, 
 with various small shops, wherein he manufactures wagons, bug- 
 gies, carriages and plows. He made in one year 589 vehicles, 
 and 1,000 plows, and sold them, in all for $40,000. He works 
 50 hands, and has invested in this factory, $20,000. He intends 
 to increase his business the ensuing year,^| 
 
 Furniture is in great demand in this city and country; which 
 causes the manufacture of great quantities of it in this city. 
 
 C. Morgan occupies a building 20 feet front, and 163 deep, 
 five stories high; on Lake street, wherein he made last year, and 
 sold furniture to the amount of 830,000. He works 40 hands, 
 and like the others, is increasing his business, 
 
 Ferris & Boyd hav^e their factory on Van Buren street, and 
 work 50 men, while their steam engine of 15 horse power, does 
 the work of 30 men more. 
 
 With the ordinary furniture, they also make elegant picture 
 frames; some of which are worth $100 each. 
 
 An oil mill is erected in this city, by Scammon& Haven, which 
 produced the last year, 40,000 gallons of lint seed oil, and is ca- 
 pable of making 100,000 in the year. Between $25,000 and 
 830,000, capital is invested in this oil mill, Oil is sent East 
 from this factory. 
 
 Soap and candles spring up into existance into this city, in 
 various factories and in great abundance, to keep the city both 
 clean and lighted. 
 
 Charles Cleaver, on the lake, south of the city, does a "bully 
 business" manufacturing candles and soap. He importes last 
 year 350 tons of rosin and soda. 
 
 In this city, are many steam engines, boilers and all the ap- 
 paratus manufactured for the country far and near, in every di-
 
 140 CITV or CHICAGO. 
 
 rection, to Indiana, Iowa and Wisconsin. Charles Reissegs has 
 a large boiler factory, in which last year, he manufactured $28,- 
 000, worth of work, and the material cost $18,000. About 107 
 boilers were made in his shop last year, and he works 25 men. 
 
 Moses owns the oldest steam engine factory in the city, which 
 is located on the South Branch, and manufactured last year, 13 
 steam e ngines, ranging from 10 to, 100 horse power, About 
 $5-5,000, is ihe val^ of the work manufactured here for one 
 single year. 
 
 Gates & Co., own the ''Eagle Works," and manufacture large- 
 ly. Fifty thousand dollars they have invested in this steam en- 
 gine and car factory. About $110,000, worth of work was turn- 
 ed out of this shop last year. In the same time they made 125 
 railroad cars, and 20 steam engines. 
 
 Mason & McArthur work 40 men, and manufacture gasome- 
 ters, parifiers and all the iron articles for the gas works. More 
 than $38,000, were expended last year by them, for iron and la- 
 bor. 
 
 Leather factories are also carried on here on a large scale.- 
 W. S. Garner tanned, on the South Branch, at his tannery, 18,- 
 000 hides, last year, and consumed 1,800 cords ot bark. He 
 handled 45,000 hides, including those tanned, and employs fifty 
 men- A large steam engine drives all his machinery. 
 
 Grey &, Co.. last year, tanned 13,819 hides, and they sold 
 leather for $62,000, last season. 
 
 Files & Co,, also tan on a large scale, and so do another com- 
 pany in this city. The last named company tanned 6,984 hides, 
 and skins, and 3,395 sides of harness leather. 
 
 Leather is an article much tanned, dressed and used every 
 where. 
 
 Sherman & Co., own the "Phcenix Stove Foundry," and turn- 
 ed out in the year, a great number of excellent stoves. Fifty
 
 . 
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 141 
 
 men are employed by them, and six ton of metal is cast daily in 
 this foundry. 
 
 Vincent, Himrod & Co., started another stove foundry, last 
 season, and made 4 or 5,000 stoves. 
 
 Immense quantities of agricultural implements are manufac- 
 tured in this city. McCormick alone, the last year, manufactur- 
 ed 1,500 reapers and sold them a; $130 each, amounting in all 
 to $195,000. 
 
 J. S. Wright manufactures Atkin's reaper and mower, and 
 intends to have ready for the harvest of this year, 1 ,000 machines 
 which he sells at $160 each. He made more than 60 last year, 
 and now works 75 men. 
 
 No place in the State makes more agricultural implements, 
 than this city, 
 
 It may not be amiss to place the splendid and tasty hotels of 
 the Garden City with the .manufactories as much comfort, good 
 cheer and happiness are manufactured in them. It is evidence 
 of the prosperity of a city, and also the best evidence of the pol- 
 ished manners and sociabilities of the people, to find in a city, 
 well kept, well organized and comfortable hotels. In all these 
 considerations, the Garden City stands unsurpassed. 
 
 The large and finely finished hotels, with their ample dimen- 
 sions and proper proportions, attract the attention of all; but when 
 the inner picture is presented, of almost all the animal comforts 
 and luxuries known to human enjoyment, then it is that the wea- 
 ry guest thinks himself at home. The Tremont and Sherman 
 houses are both excellent hotels, and kept in }he most approved 
 and tasty manner. Every article of furniture in them, is new, 
 neat and elegant, and the politeness and urbanity of manners of 
 the proprietors are either gentlemanly or lady-like, as the case 
 may be. Many other hotels exist in thist in this city, which are 
 also kept in good style.
 
 142 CITY OP CHICAGO. 
 
 Within a few years, the commerece of the Garden City is as 
 suming that great and important stand to which its destiny enti- 
 tles it. 
 
 All the receipts of flour last year, were 131, 130 barrels, being 
 7,000 more than in 1852. Mills of this city turned out last year, 
 twelve thousand barrels. Last year, the wheat received were 
 1,687,465 bushels, and the previous year only 37;496. Barley 
 192,387 bushels. 
 
 Indian corn received in this city, last year, 2,869,339 bushels. 
 Oats, 1,875,770 bushels. Rye, 9,486 bushels. Grass seed, 2,- 
 197,9S7 pounds. Butter, 812,430 pounds. Lard, 6,753 Ibs.- 
 Hogs slaughtered here, were 52,849 head, and weighed 13,- 
 188,815 Ibs. Beef cattle slaughtered and packed, 25,435 head, 
 averaging 563 Ibs. Barrels of tallow rendered here, 5,283. The 
 hides ol the above beefs weighed 2,126,321 Ibs. Number 
 of men employed in the beef business is between five and six 
 hundred. All the beef trade, offal, hides, tallow and the beef 
 last year slaughtered in this city amounted to $865,947 85. 
 
 Lumber is one of the best and most important articles of com- 
 merce, in the West, and it has been steadily increasing for ma- 
 ny years past. In 1853, 212,111,198 feet of lumber were receiv- 
 ed in Chicago, showing an increase of 64/284,866 over the last 
 year, 
 
 Shingles received last year were 93,483,784,beingan increase 
 over the last year of 16,413,285 shingles. Laths received, 39,- 
 233,116, being an increase of 10,373446 laths over the previous 
 year. 
 
 All this lumber being mostly pine, is in great demand through- 
 out the West for building, which makes this article of commerce 
 very great and profitable. 
 
 Lead received here last year were 3,252,661 Ibs. Great quan- 
 tities of fruit were also received, but the precise amount is not as-
 
 8KETCHFS OB THE COUNTRY. 143 
 
 certained. Hunt, in his Magazine of 1852, lays down the steam 
 marine of the inland section of the United States in three divi- 
 sions: The Northern Frontier, the Ohio Basin and the Mississ- 
 ippi Valley : 
 
 Steamers, Tonnage, Officers & crew Passenr's. 
 JSTorth'n Frontier, 164 69,165 2,885 1,513,391 
 
 Ohio Basin, 348 67,511 8,338 3,464,967 
 
 Miss. Valley, 255 67,975 6,414 882,593 
 
 And it appears in the same work, that 199,883 passengers enter- 
 ed Chicago that year. 
 
 The above hasty sketches are only the index pointing to the 
 immense and important business done in this city. It would re- 
 quire volumes to embrace it all. 
 
 Chicago river is a small stream, and after receiving the canal 
 it then enters the lake at this place. It affords an excellent 
 harbor for the shipping. It is not wide; but very deep, and when 
 vessels pass through the piers of the harbor, they are then safe 
 for many miles, in this river; which is a kind of bay of the lake. 
 And as the water in the river is nearly as high as the banks, it 
 is a singular sight to see the masts of the vessels, from many 
 parts of the world, mixed up with the houses and chimneys on 
 shore, and often almost quite touching each other. 
 
 Besides the marine population, there are 31,433 of foreign 
 birth in this city, according to the last census, and 28,688 natives 
 of the United States. The emigrants from Europe are composed 
 mostly of Germans, Irish, English, Norwegians and some 
 French. The American population is mostly from New Eng- 
 land and New York. A New York influence prevails in this 
 city in commerce, business and money matters. The tone and 
 character of the American population are rather of a New York 
 preponderance. Between this city and New York, there is a di- 
 rect and heavy business, commercial and otherwise, by which the
 
 144 CITY OP CHICAGO. 
 
 citizens of the two cities become acquainted with each other, and 
 many from New York settle in Chicago. 
 
 The population of this city is in the general, moral, orderly 
 and correct, and are generally blessed with that politeness and 
 urbanity of polished and accomplished manners that render socie- 
 ty so agreeable and facinating. Also, they are intelligent, and 
 generally well informed in practical business. Great excitement 
 and enthusiasm prevails in this city to acquire fortunes and fame, 
 induce the citizens to exert all their physical and mental energies 
 and abilities in such a manner, that every latent spark of mind 
 and activity is brought out into active operation. Under these 
 considerations, every citizen has an institution of learning before 
 him, and if he do not become a scholar in it, he must take a 
 back seat, at least in the forum of wealth and business. 
 
 By these exciting circumstances, the citizens of Chicago have 
 acquired talents and energy in business, that cannot be surpassed. 
 They scarcely take time to eat or sleep; and their gait in the 
 street is generally much faster than a common walk. Almost 
 every citizen of Chicago has the acquisition of a fortune strongly 
 governing his mind, and he has either obtained it, or is in hot 
 pursuit of it. Thus we leave the Garden City and proceed East, 
 
 CAAPTER XL 
 
 LA POHTE, ADRIAN AND TOLEDO, 
 
 The prairie east of Chicago, on which the railroad is made, 
 does not seem much more elevated than the water of the lake, 
 and is equally as level for some miles. A rock, for many miles 
 must surround the lakes, or otherwise the the water would flow
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COtfXfftY. 
 
 145 
 
 out to the ocean through the channels of the Western rivers. 
 On the Illinois and Michigan canal the summit level is only 
 eight feet; but this is solid rock. It is suggested by some, in or- 
 der to improve the navigation of the Illinois river, a deep cut be 
 made to let a sufficient quantity of water out of the lake to sup- 
 ply the deficiency in the river. 
 
 At one point, the cars seem rather inclined to leave the rail- 
 road and take, water, as the rodd approaches near the water of 
 the lake. A singular barren country is traversed by the railroad 
 around the southern bend of the lake, and the sand ridges, the 
 small swamps, and the scrubby timber, reminds us of the barren 
 heath where Macbeth met the witches; yet I saw none there, 
 eiher male or female. 
 
 On this route, at the "south bend" of the St. Joseph river, 
 was the portage where the first Illinois explorers, in 1679, under 
 La Salle, crossed over from the river of St. Joseph, to the Kan- 
 kakee with their baggage, and pursued their route down that 
 river. 
 
 Fifty-eight miles from Chicago, the cars reach the beautiful 
 small city ot La Porte, the county seat of the county of the same 
 name, in thfc State of Indiana. 
 
 It is a beautiful and prolific country surrounding this flourish- 
 ing pla^l^fes healthy, and enjoying a rapid change from a wil- 
 derness state, to that of a highly improved and prosperous coun- 
 try. La Porte is a French name, given to the surrounding prai- 
 rie by the early French traders, and in English is, "A Door." 
 From this name the city is called La Porte. 
 
 In this section of country, there are many small lakes, which 
 are deep and waters pure, clear and transparent. Near this city 
 are three, known as Pine, Clear, and Stone lakes; and on Clear is 
 this city located. This lake is two miles long, and three-fourths 
 of a mile wide; and being so deep that no bottom is found in it. 
 25
 
 146 LA PORTE ADRIAN AND TOLEDO. 
 
 It is ascertained that these lakes are 300 feet higher than the 
 waters of lake Michigan. It is curious that these lakes rise for 
 three or four years, and then subside again. It was stated that 
 last year they rose a foot or more. 
 
 In this city the learned professions are well sustained by both 
 numbers and talents. Lawyers lead the van, and number ten in 
 all. Physicians and the ministers of the gospel, range some be- 
 lew the law profession; but are numerous and respectable. It is 
 estimated that this city contains nearly four thousand inhabitants 
 and is increasing with the rapid rise of the country generally. 
 Seven churches are located in it, and many of them are fine 
 stately edifices crowded congregations attend them on proper 
 occasions. 
 
 In this city is located the Indiana Medical College, with seven 
 instructors and 104 students. A fine building is erected for this 
 institution, and is finished in neat and substantial style. 
 
 Public and private schools are numerous and well sustained by 
 the citizens of La Porte. 
 
 No place, not immediately situated on navigable water, is much 
 better provided for commercial facilities than this city. Railroads 
 from Chicago to the East, and from the North t^the South, inter- 
 sect at La Porte, which has already added -;nu^x to the rise and 
 progress of this place. 
 
 This town was laid out in 1816, and afterwards a Land Office 
 was established in it. 
 
 In it are two public journals, published weekly, which circulate 
 largely throughout the country. It is also contains a Bank, and 
 a fine Academy, with many High Schools, which are conducted 
 by learned and accomplished scholars. As this city is healthy. 
 and very^ccessablc, and also possessing so many rural attractions 
 that many visit it, in the summer for their health to fish and 
 to leave ennui.
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 147 
 
 On crossing the Illinois State line, the cars enter the State of 
 Indiana; which is a great and flourisning State of the West. The 
 whole wealth of the State is put down by the report from the 
 Patent Offie, at $384,000,000; being the fifth State in the Union. 
 
 In 1800, the Territory of Indiana included Illinois; and the 
 whole population then, was only 4,875; and at this time in the 
 two States of Indiana and Illinois, the population is estimated at 
 3,000,000. 
 
 Improved lands in Indiana are 5,046,543 acres, and 7,746,879 
 acrejs unimproved. Total value of live stock is twenty-two mil- 
 lion four hundred and seventy eight thousand, five hundred and 
 fifty-five dollars! 
 
 The following grain crops were raised in Indiana in 1850: 
 6,214,458 bushels of wheat. Indian corn 52,964,363 bushels. 
 Rye 78,792 bushels. Barley 45,483 bushels and oats 5,655,- 
 014 bushels. These high figures place this State high in the 
 temple of agricultural fame. 
 
 After leaving La Porte, the prairies become smaller, and at 
 last cease to exist on the road east. To a person residing all his 
 life in a prairie country, the timber, before it is cleared off is dis- 
 agreeable and tiresome. It is also a fact that the soil is not so 
 fertile in the timber as in the prairie, with some exceptions, on 
 creek and river bottoms in the timber. 
 
 Going East on the Southern Michigan railroad, the next place 
 of importance is Adrian, the capital of Lenawee county, in the 
 State of Michigan. 
 
 It is situated at the junction of Beever creek and the river 
 Raisin, and is a nourishing promising place, containing, it is es- 
 timated, 4,000 inhabitants. 
 
 In it are contained several flouring mills and many factories. 
 Schools, churches and all other civilized institutions characteristic 
 of the people of the United States, are established here; and sus-
 
 148 LA PORTE, ADRIAN AND TOLEDO. 
 
 tained with that wisdom and foresight which are born with the 
 free people of this great Confederacy. 
 
 Two newspapers are issued here: one the Watch Tower, weekly; 
 and the other monthly: the Family Favorite. 
 
 The population of the State of Michigan was in 1850, 397,- 
 654; and in 1851 the whole number of the militia was 64,178 
 men. Improved lands 1,929,110 acres unimproved, 2,454,750 
 acres. Number of farms, 34,069; and value of live stock, $8,- 
 008,734. 
 
 Grain raised in 1850 was: wheat, 4,925,889 bushels rye, 
 165,871 bushels corn, 5,611,420 bushels; and oats, 2,866,0f 6 
 bushels. 
 
 Shipping owned in two districts Detroit and Mackanaw a- 
 mounts to 38,144 tons; and 18,015 of which tons are navigated 
 by steam power. 
 
 Our next city visited is Toledo, which is, in reality, beautifully 
 situated on the west bank of the Maumee rive, and on an eleva- 
 ted and commanding site. The city enjoys many natural advan- 
 tages, which must in a short time, raise it to the rank and stand- 
 ing of a great W estern emporium. It is located in the Heart of 
 an extremely fertile region of country, which is fast settling and 
 improving by an intelligent and energetic population. Also, it is, 
 situated on the navigable waters of the lakes, and thereby enjoys 
 a position of admirable adaptation to the lake commerce. 
 
 It is situated in the county of Lucas, State of Ohio, and is a 
 port of entry. When I visited this city last fall, I considered the 
 beautiful expanse of water fronting the city, to be a bay of Lake 
 Erie; but it is five miles down to the bay from this city, as I am 
 informed. 
 
 The city is situated on an elevation of twenty or thirty feet a- 
 bove the water, the site rises gradually from the upper bank of 
 the river, and extends back for some considerable distance; so
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 149 
 
 that very few sites for cities can supass Toledo. 
 
 The city is extended on the Maumee river for more than a 
 mile, and contains many substantial and elegant public and pri- 
 vate buildings. It was laid out in 1831 and in five years thereaf- 
 ter, it was incorporated a city. It is laid off into four wards, and 
 the population in 1853, was 6,513. In 1850, it was 3,819; and 
 in 1840 it contained only 1,222 inhabitants. In this great pro- 
 portion of increase, the population maybe set down at 10 or 12,- 
 000 at the end of the year 1854. 
 
 In ancient times when the French occupied the country, tra- 
 ding houses with the Indians were generally established at this 
 point, and 1800 the United States established a garrison here and 
 called it Fort Indrustry. 
 
 In this city are 70 stores of various kinds, and two banks. 
 
 Also there are two public journals established in it, that issue, 
 both of them, large sheets and have a wide circulation. Also, 
 this city is blessed with many good free schools and institutions 
 of learning. Private schools are sustained in various parts of 
 the city; so that all classes of children may, and many of them 
 do, receive instruction free of any charge whatever. 
 
 Many churches are also established in this city, that not only 
 adorn and beautify the place, but also a*dd much to the improve- 
 ment of the morals and religion of the citizens, and therefore, 
 advance the happiness of the people. 
 
 Manufactures in this city are receiving great attention, and are 
 advancing rapidly, arid many are in complete operation. But it 
 is the commerce of this city that gives it such prominent stand, 
 and will in future place it high in commercial fame. Much of 
 the great Eastern and Western trade and travel between the 
 Alleghany mountains and the lakes, will pass this point, and 
 make it a great business emporium. 
 
 One of the most lengthy and important canals in America is 
 
 26
 
 150 LA PORTE, ADRIAN AND TOLEDO. 
 
 built from Manhattan, 4 miles below this city, traversing the in- 
 terior of the Western Valley for 447 miles to Ohio river, at 
 Evansville. The lakes and the Ohio river are connected by this 
 canal, and also the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean by 
 inland navigation. 
 
 Toledo is also the common centre and termini of many effi- 
 cient and important railroads. Here centres the Toledo, New- 
 ark and Cleveland railroad 111 miles. The Erie and Kalama- 
 zoo railroad to Adrian, 32 miles. Dayton and Michigan rail- 
 road and the junction railroad to Cleveland, via, Sandusky all 
 centre here. All these facilities of commerce give this city such 
 advantages, together with her natural situation that its destiny is 
 onward to greatness and commercial fame. 
 
 All the tonnage of the Miami District, of which Toledo is the 
 port of entry, in 1851, was 3,236 tons; which had increased in 
 one year, more than one-third. The increase in four years is 
 the following: 
 
 In 1S47 $7,982,233 
 
 " 1848 13,115,485 
 
 " 1851 30,835,580 
 
 1852 57,303,925 
 
 Amount of duties collected at this port in 1852, were $80 ,- 
 001 38. Number of vessels that entere d this port in two years' 
 was in 1851, 838,834; and in 1852, 1,347,911 vessels. 
 
 On the Wabash and Erie canal the tonnage increased 50 per 
 cent, in two years. In 1850, it was 184,400, and in 1851 250,- 
 000; and at this time it is probably 500,000 tons. Most of the 
 commerce of the canal is grain, pork and beef, and in return 
 merchandise. The railroads have doubled their business in 1852 
 over the previous year; and the country and city are still pro- 
 gressing in the ratio above mentioned. 
 
 In Toledo are many large and convenient hotels, suitable to the
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUICTRT. 151 
 
 age and to the business of the city. One amongst others stands 
 in the lower part of the city, and is large and well arranged to 
 accommodate, refit and replenish the mind and body ot the guest. 
 A large reading room is laid open to the public, filled with all 
 sorts of newspaper intelligence, particularly the loss of life on 
 steamboats, for the aged ladies. The table of "mine host" is 
 covered with almost everything that any taste or appetite may 
 desire. 
 
 Judging from the appearance of the Maumee river adjacent to 
 the city, it is about three-fourths of a mile wide, and seems to 
 have water sufficient for all ordinary purposes of navigation. 
 
 Toledo is the centre of many important historic scenes. 
 
 An ancient trace, made by the Indians, and used by the early 
 French and other traders, passed near this site from Detroit to 
 the western French colonies. It was located on the Maumee 
 Valley, thence to the Wabash Valley and to the old Weas towns 
 on the Wabash river, where once a French colony was located; 
 thence to Vincennes on the Wabash, and thence to Kaskaskia, 
 This, in the early colonization of the country from Canada, was 
 an important path; which may be considered the Indian "Appian 
 Way." 
 
 Since the earliest occupation of the country, the French and 
 English had small garrisons and trading posts at the falls of the 
 Maumee in this vicinity; and the cellebrated battle ground of 
 Gen. Wayne, in 1794, was not far from the site of Toledo, on 
 this river. Fort Meigs was established in this vicinity by Gen. 
 Harrison in the war with Great Britain, and sieges, battles and 
 bloodshed were common around this Fort in the year 1813, in 
 the war with England. 
 
 Not far off was the battle-field of the river Raisin, under Gen. 
 Winchester, where the English permitted the wounded American 
 soldiers to be butchered and burnt by their Indian allies, after
 
 152 LA PORTE, ADRIAN AND TOLEDO, 
 
 they had surrendered and protection promised. And on Lake 
 Erie, not a great distance from this city, the famous naval victory 
 over the English fleet by Commodore Perry, was achieved; that 
 gave us, not only the mastery of the upper lakes, but also it ad- 
 ded much to the glory and standing of our nation. 
 
 During the summer of 1813, commodore Perry was earnestly 
 engaged in preparing a fleet to give battle to the British navy 
 on the lakes, and on the 10th Sept., 1813, he was in command 
 of nine small vessels, carrying fifty-four guns; while the British 
 fleet consisted of six vessels, and sixty-three guns, The enemy 
 having the most guns, while our vessels were smaller, but more in 
 number. 
 
 A brave veteran officer, Capt. Barcklay, commanded the Eng- 
 lish fleet, who had served under Lord Nelson in the battle of 
 Trafalgar; while the young Perry commanded the American na- 
 vy, who never saw a naval engagement in his life, before the 
 one in which he was the eminent conquror. But being educat ed 
 under the free institutions of America, and possessing more ac- 
 tivity and energy than (he enemy, made the Americans a supe- 
 rior race; which gave them the victory. 
 
 In the heat of the action, Perry left his flagship, which was a- 
 bout sinking, and was conveyed in an open boat to another ves 
 sel, amidst an incessant fire at him. He stood up in the boat, 
 carrying the flag with the noble expression in large letters on it, 
 "Don't give up the Ship!" This was one of the most signal and 
 brilliant victories the American navy achieved during the war. 
 Perry lost in this action, one hundred and twenty-three men in 
 killed and wounded; but he gained an immortality in fame.
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTR V 15' 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 CLEVELAND, ERIE, DUNKIRK AND BUFFALO. 
 
 The travel crosses the Miama river at Toledo, and enters the 
 cars on the Toledo, Norwalk and Cleveland road. 
 
 The railroad from Toledo to Buffalo traverses the northern 
 section of Ohio, which is the third State in the Union in popula- 
 tion and wealth, and is rapidly growing to that grand destiny, 
 which a free Government, an intelligent and energetic population 
 together with many natural advantages, will enable her to ac- 
 complish. 
 
 It is stated in official documents that the wealth of Ohio is 
 $740,000,000,and her population in 1850 was 1,980,408. It will 
 be largely upwards of two million in 1854. Number of dwellings, 
 were 386,098 and number of families 349,523. Acres of im- 
 proved lands were 9,851,493; unimproved, 8,146,000 acres. 
 Value of all the lands in the State is $358,768,603, and the val- 
 ue of the live stock is $44,121,741. 
 
 Ohio is a great agricultural State, as well as other branches of
 
 154 CLEVELAND, ERIE, DUNKIRK AND BUFFALO. 
 
 industry. Wheat raised in 1850, 14,487,451 bushels. Corn, 
 59,078,695 bushels. Oats, 13,472,742 bushels. Rye, 425,718 
 bushels. Barley, 344,358 bushels. Buckwheat, 638,064 bush- 
 els. Other grain crops were raised in about the same propor- 
 tion. 
 
 It is stated in official report of the State Engineer and Sur- 
 veyor of the canals in the State of New York, that Ohio in the 
 year 1853, raised over thirty million bushels wheat, and over six- 
 ty million bushels of corn. 
 
 Ohio stands high on the list of the leading manufacturing 
 States of the Union, and is in this branch of industry, rapidly in- 
 creasing. Aggregate capital invested in manufactures through- 
 out the State, is one hundred million of dollars, and the raw ma- 
 terial, fuel &c., consumed annually, is also valued at one hun- 
 dred million of dollars. All the products of the iron manufacto- 
 ries are $391, 392, and other branches of manufactures in about 
 the same proportion. 
 
 Ohio also stands high in her commercial industry, and fast in- 
 creasing. In 1850, her shipping amounted to 62,462 tons; and 
 were built in the State last year, 31 vessels, aggregate burden 
 5,215 tons. 
 
 The annual commerce of this great State may be placed at 
 $160,000,000. The vast mineral resources of this State, togeth- 
 er with the extraordinary fertility of the soil, may sustain a pop- 
 ulation equal to the British Islands. 
 
 Number of militia men is 176,456. Finances of the State in 
 '50 were $2,536,558 40; and all the resources of the Treasury 
 were, including the ballance of the former year, $3,091,993 80. 
 
 Aggregate capital of all the banks in Ohio, is $7,614,756; 
 specie, $2,759,743; notes in circulation, $13,635,7%!, and dis- 
 counts, $17,542,112. 
 
 Number of schools, 12,279; and all the enrolled scholars 421,-
 
 OE THE COUNTRY. 155 
 
 733 Aggregate number of Churches is 3,890 in the State; and' 
 can accommodate 1,446,652 persons. Property appertaining to 
 the churches is $5,765,349. All the periodical papers published 
 in the State in '50, were 302, and of the above number twenty- 
 eight were daily issues; making annually 29,214,328 copies, 
 which are daily circulated among the people. Weekly issues 
 are from 222 presses, and are 11,016,824 annually; besides the 
 other issues: tri-weekliy, monthly, &c., papers. 
 
 Some of the outlines of this great State are given above, which 
 present a greatness and importance that are not generally known. 
 
 The State of Ohio is fortunately situated fox commerce, hav- 
 ing the Ohio river on the south, and the lakes on the north; and 
 the outlets so convenient to either New York or New Orleans. 
 The climate is good, and the health excellent after the country is 
 improved as it now is. 
 
 Dense forests of timber occupy the route of the railroad from 
 Toledo to Cleveland and Buffalo, and the prairies entirely disap- 
 pear. Much of the country on the way serve well for stock 
 farms and grazing; but is not first rate for raising grain. Many 
 places on the route is level and swampy, being, I presume, the 
 summit level between the waters of the lakes and the Ohio river. 
 
 In this section of country south, known as the ''Black Swamps,'* 
 where Gen. Harrison was so much troubled in the winter of 
 1812 and 13, in conveying his supplies, baggage and army from 
 the settlements in the State of Ohio to the Lakes. At this day, 
 these swamps are measurably drained and improved. Forty 
 years have made an extraordinary change in all the Western 
 country. 
 
 In the vicinity of this road, was achieved one of the most brill-- 
 iant victories of the late war with Great Britain. Three young 
 inexperienced officers, all natives of the chivalric State of Ken- 
 tucky, with barely 150 men, withstood the shock of all the British 
 
 W
 
 156 CLEVELAND. ERIE, DUNKIRK AVD BUFFALO 
 
 force of regulars, canon and Indians, that were at the time on 
 the northern frontiers. Gen. Proctor, of the British army, was 
 in command of 3,300 regulars and Indians, with six pieces of 
 cannon, and had been hovering around Fort Meigs at the falls 
 of the Maumee, hut could not make any impression there, deci- 
 ded to capture Fort Stevens, at the Lower Sandusky. Gen. 
 Harrison had ordered the Fort to be abandoned and burnt, at San- 
 dusky; but the brave young Keutuckians, Major Croghan, Lieut. 
 Shipp and Ensign Joseph Duncan, determined to defend it or 
 die in the attempt. 
 
 A large amount of stores were in this Fort, and the main ar- 
 ray not in reach of its defence. If the stores were destroyed, the 
 campaign would be frustrated. In disobediance of orders, it was 
 decided to maintain the Fort at all hazards, although it was con- 
 sidered by Gen. Harrison, indefensible against heavy cannon. 
 Immense responsibility these officers assumed, all under twenty- 
 one years old, and their lives, and the lives of 150 men staked 
 upon the issue; in a Fort that was considered too weak to resist 
 the British cannon; but patriotism, and the Lord of Hosts, saved 
 them. 
 
 No time was allowed for this small garrison to repair their 
 Fort,but on the 31st July, 1813, Gen. Proctor demanded a surren- 
 der, with the common stercetyped threat of Indian massacre, to 
 which Maj. Croghan replied in a cool determined manner, that 
 the Indians in case the Fort was captured, would have none to 
 massacre: as the last man would die before the Fort was surren- 
 dered, 
 
 Proctor leveled all his six cannon at the north-west angle of 
 the Fort, and supposed a breach had been made, so his soldiers 
 could enter the Fort at that point. The Americans were not idle 
 in the Fort; but strengthened it at the devoted point by bags of 
 sand and barrels of flour, had prepared the only gun they had,
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COtJKTRY. 
 
 a six pounder, with slugs and other destructive balls. They 
 masked the cannon in the dark, so that it was concealed from 
 the enemy. During the night ol the 1st August, all day of the 
 2nd, and late in the evening, the fire continued incessantly on 
 the angle of the Fort. 
 
 The Americans had nothing to do but to prepare for the com- 
 ing storm, and in the dark of the night, and in the smoke of their 
 batteries from six cannon, 350 British regulars approached with- 
 in 20 yards of the Fort before they were discovered; but the A- 
 mericans were prepared for the attack. They enemy considered 
 they had made a breach in the walls, and that they could take 
 the Fort by assault. The American musketry was opened upon 
 them but without effect. The enemy gained the ditch and filled 
 it. At this crisis, the glorious American gun was opened upon 
 them, within thirty feet of them, and killed at the first fire, 27 of 
 the assailants. The effect was decisive; the column recoiled and 
 retreated the small Fort was saved, and the brave little Ameri- 
 can band gained immortal honor. *i 
 
 These young officers, whose bravery ana" patriotism saved, not 
 only Fort Stevens, but sustained the army and the country, were 
 all Cadets of the West Point Academy, and acted with great gal- 
 lantry in the army throughout the war. Ensign Duncan was af- 
 terwards elected a member of Congress for many years, and Gov- 
 ernor of the State of Illinois; and Maj. Croghan was always 
 held in high estimation by both the army and country. Lieut. 
 Shipp did not long survive the war. 
 
 All these noble patriots are sleeping the sleep of death; but 
 their gallant services are held in high estimation by the people. 
 On the waters of this same Sandusky river, in 1782, occurred 
 one of the most blood thirsty tragedies, that is recorded in histo- 
 ry, and shows the savage ferocity of an illiterate and barbarous 
 people, 
 
 27
 
 158 CLEVELAND. ERIE, DUNKIRK AVD BUFFALO 
 
 In the summer of the above year, an unauthorized organiza- 
 tion of about 500 men were assembled, and met at the Mingo 
 Bottom on the Ohio river, 3 miles below the present Stubenville. 
 The previous year the backwoodsmen had wrongfully destroyed 
 the Christain Indians on the Muskingum river. Many of the 
 frontier inhabitants at that day, and down to my own recollection 
 in Illinois, considered it no harm to kill an Indian, more than a 
 beast of prey. 
 
 William Crawford was elected to command the expedition, but 
 he was rather importuned into the command against his judg- 
 ment. They marched to the Sandusky,but there the Indians re- 
 pulsed them, and captured some prisoners, among whom was 
 Col. Crawford, 
 
 Dr. Knight, an eye-witness, narrates the tragedy, and says: 
 
 4 'In the place where we were made to sit down, there were a 
 number of squaws and boys, who fell on the five prisoners and 
 tomahawked them. The young Indians came often where the 
 Colonel and I were, and dashed the scalps incur faces. Almost 
 every Indian we met, struck us, either with sticks or with their 
 fists. 
 
 When we went to the fire, the Colonel was stripped naked, or- 
 dered to sit down by it, and they beat him with sticks and their 
 fists. Presently after, 1 was treated in the same manner. They 
 then tied a rope to the foot of a post about 15 feet high bound 
 the Colonel's hands behind his back, and fastened the rope to the 
 ligament between his wrists. The rope was long enough for him 
 to sit down, or to walk around the post, once or twice and return 
 the same way. 
 
 Upon this, Captain Pike, a Delaware chief, made a speech tr. 
 the Indians, about thirty of forty men , and sixty or seventy 
 squaws and boys. The Indians then took up their guns, and 
 shot powder into the Colonel's body, from his feet, as far up as
 
 SKETCHES OF THE OODNTEY. 159 
 
 his neck. I think not less than seventy loads were discharged in 
 his naked body. They then crowded about him, and to the best 
 of my observation cut off his ears; when the throng had dispersed 
 a little, I saw the blood running from the sides of his head in 
 consequence thereof. 
 
 The fire was about six or seven yards from the post to which 
 the Colonel was tied, and was made of small hickory poles, burnt 
 quite through in the middle, each one of the poles remaining a- 
 bout six feet in length. Three or four Indians by turns, would take 
 up, individually, one of these burning pieces of wood, and apply 
 it to his naked body, already burnt black with the powder. 
 
 These tormentors presented themselves on every side of him, 
 with the burning faggots and poles. Some of the squaws took 
 broad boards, upon which they would carry a quantity of burning 
 coals and hot embers, and throw on him; so that in a short time 
 he had nothing but coals of fire and hot ashes to walk upon. In 
 the midst of these extreme tortures, he called to Simon Girty and 
 begged him to shoot him. ****** 
 
 Col. Crawford at this period of his suffering, besaught the Al- 
 mighty to have mercy on his soul spoke very low, and bore his 
 torments with the most manly fortitude. He continued in all the 
 extr emetics of pain for one hour and three quarters, or two hours 
 longer, as near as I can judge; when at last being almost exhaus- 
 ted, he lay down on his belly; they then scalped him, and repea- 
 tedly threw the scalp in my face, telling me "that was my great 
 Captain's." An old squaw got a board, took a parcel of coals 
 and ashes, and laid them on his back and head, after he 
 had been scalped. He then raised himself up on his feet, and 
 began to walk round the post; but he seemed more insensible to 
 pain than before." 
 
 The narrative of the Doctor here ends; as he was taken off. 
 The Colonel expired there, and his dead body was cast in the fire.
 
 I 
 
 160 CLEVEIAND, ERIE, DUNKIRK AND BUFFALO. 
 
 In these peaceable times, such horrid atrocities can scarcely 
 be realised: but such are fixed facts. The State of Ohio has call- 
 ed a county Crawford, including the place of this tragedy, 
 in honor of this unfortunate man. 
 
 This revolting tragedy may do good to advance education: as it 
 is the moral and proper instruction that makes the civilized and 
 Christian man, so far superior to the aborigines. 
 
 But we will leave this horrid butchery, and enter with the cars 
 the gay, fashionable and beautiful city of Cleveland. It occupies 
 a high, commanding and a beautiful site on the bank of Lake 
 Erie, at the entrance of the Cuyahoga river into the lake, and is 
 the capital of Cuyahoga County, Ohio, in latitude 41 31 ' 07" 
 North. Cleveland was laid out in 1796, and was called for 
 Gen. Moses Cleveland, who was the Surveyor General for the 
 Connecticut Reserve. The site is beautiful and charming. 
 It occupies an elevation of delightful surface, one hundred feet 
 above the waters of the Lake, and from which point is a view of 
 the great expanse of water, together with the city, country and 
 the innumerable vehicles of locomotion, moving on both land and 
 water, and interchanging their freights at this point. 
 
 The cars descend to the shore of the lake; so that the freights 
 may t be interchanged from one element to the other with conveni- 
 ence; and there is also a splendid saloon, of extraordinary di- 
 mensions, filled to overflowing with all the comforts for animal 
 man. 
 
 Cleveland has increased with great rapidity within a few years- 
 and is now the second city in the State of Ohio. It 1830, it 
 contained less than 1,000 inhabitant In 1840, 6,071 in 1850, 
 17,034; and in 1S54 it estimated to contain 40,000 souls. It is 
 the Northern Emporium of Ohio, and bids fair in future to be 
 numbered with the great commercial cities of the U. States. Many 
 facilities of commerce and business centre in this city. The Ohio
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY, 
 
 canal, 300 miles long, extending to Portsmouth on the Ohio riv- 
 er, terminates here, and a branch of this canal extends to Pitts- 
 burgh. Various railroads are constructed from this point, east> 
 west and south, throughout the Union, where these conveyances 
 exist, and to the north, the lake affords ample means of trad o and 
 travel. 
 
 At this point is one of the best harbors on the lakes. The 
 pier extends 425 yards into the lake at the entrance of Cuyahoga 
 river, and is 200 feet wide, made of excellent stone masonry. A 
 light-house stands on the high bank, while another is erected at 
 the entrance of the harbor. 
 
 Coastwise commerce of this city in 1850, amounted to $13,- 
 886,531. The shipping owned in the district was, in 1S50, 35,- 
 315 tons; of which 9,994 tons were propelled by steam. 
 
 Manufactories are not forgotten in this city. Almost all the 
 engines and articles for the steamboats and cars used in this sec- 
 tion, are made in this city; and the Cuyahoga Steam Foundry 
 does a good business. 
 
 Many extensive flouring mills exist here, and manufacture 
 large quantities of flour. Almost all the manufactures common 
 to a flourishing northern Yankee, city, are established here, and 
 supply the wants of the people. 
 
 Education is here conducted with liberality and efficiency. 
 Fine schools are established throughout the city: that the poor 
 and wealthy meet together, and partake freely without charge, 
 as they breathe the air. 
 
 The school edifices are generally brick, and that on St. Clair 
 street, is an ornament to the city. Many high schools exist in 
 this city; and also many seminaries of learning. The city has ma- 
 ny literary associations, and reading rooms. Last year this city 
 was honored with a session of the famous Institute of science, 
 who are to meet this yfear at Washington City. In this city are 
 
 2R
 
 162 CLEVELAND, ERIE, DUNKIRK AND BUFFALO, 
 
 contained three presses, that issue daily sheets and also weekly 
 papers. Likewise two other papers are published here weekly. 
 
 There are twenty-six churches in this city which is the best 
 evidence of the wisdom, good morals and consequent happiness 
 of the people. 
 
 The city is laid off in streets of right angles, mostly 80 feet 
 wide, ana some 120. 
 
 In 1814, Cleveland was incorporated a village; but in 1836, it 
 cast away forever its swaddling clothes , and assumed the rank and 
 style of a chartered city. The police arrangement is good, and 
 evil doers are not common in Cleveland. 
 
 On the west side of the river Cuyahoga, is located on a beau- 
 tiful eminence the "Ohio City," This is a part of Cleveland, 
 with another name. 
 
 As the cars run East, the soil seems to become thinner and the 
 timber thicker: but the improvements of the country make up 
 the deficiency for the want of better soil, and the prairies, as they 
 exist in the West. 
 
 Soon the cars, moving at the rate of 35 or 40 miles per hour, 
 enters the great State of Pennsylvania, which has a coast on Lake 
 Erie of 30 miles. Charles II., of England, made a grant to 
 William Penn, of the territory composing this State, and called 
 it Pennsylvania, in honor of the grantee. And it is at this day, 
 ranked among the first States of the Union. 
 
 In 1850, the population of this State was 8,311,786, and in 
 1790, it was only 434,373. Militia force of the State is 276,- 
 070 men. Improved lands in 1850 were 8,628,619 acres; and 
 unimproved 6,294,728 acres. Value of real estate, $407,876,099 
 Aggregate value of live stock is $41, 500,053. Number of man- 
 ufactures, producing annually more than $500, were, in 1850, 
 32,036. 
 
 The great mineral wealth of this State consists, mostly in iron
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 163 
 
 and coal, which are discovered in abundance in many parts of 
 the State. 
 
 The city of Erie is beautifully situated on an eminence, near 
 Lake Erie in the State of Pennsylvania, and commands an ex- 
 tensive view of the lake and the surrounding country. 
 
 It -is in latitude 42 10' North. It was first settled by Gen. 
 Irwine, and Andrew Elliott, in the year 1795: but it remain- 
 ed stationary at a low population, for many years. In 1840 it 
 contained 3,412; in 1850, 5,680; and at this time, it is estimated 
 to contain 6,000 inhabitants. It enjoys an excellent harbor, be- 
 ing protected by a bank of earth known as Presque Isle. This 
 last was the name by which the place was known in early days. 
 The French, when they occupied this country, kept up a Fort 
 here, and had a communication across the country 14 miles from 
 the lake to the head waters of the Alleghany river, and down it 
 to the Ohio. 
 
 This city is the county seat of Erie county, and contains a fine 
 Court House and substantial Jail. It also contains a Bank, and 
 many institutions of learning. A large and capacious female 
 Academy is established in this city, where much attention is paid 
 to female education. Also are erected here, seven Christian 
 churches, which are in the hands of the various denominations 
 of Christians, and well attended upon the Sabbath. Sunday 
 Schools are also maintained here with due propriety and benefit 
 to morals. 
 
 Able and efficient public journals are established in this place. 
 Four weekly and one tri-weekly papers are issued in Erie. 
 
 In this city are many excellent hotels, and amongst them is the 
 Reid House, which is established and kept on the plan of the 
 Astor House, New York. 
 
 This city is becoming a commercial point: and in a few years, 
 when the canal and roads which are contemplated, be constructed
 
 164 
 
 CLEVELAND, ERIE, tfttXKlRK AKD BUFFALO. 
 
 to Pittsburgh, and other southern cities, then it will take a stand 
 as a commercial city. 
 
 Extensive factories are at present carried on in this place 
 where steam engines, cars, and almost all the equipment for cars 
 and steam boats are manufactured. 
 
 It was in this place in 1813; that Commodore Perry fitted out 
 his fleet to attack the British squadron under Captain Barcklay. 
 And it was here that the celebrated Gen. Anthony Wayne died 
 in the year 1796 in the service of his country. His remains were 
 taken up in 1809, and intered in his native county: Chester, Penn- 
 sylvania, by his son Isaac "Wayne, Esq. 
 
 On leaving Erie the cars in a short time, appear in the great 
 Empire State of New York. 
 
 This State is very large, containing 46,085 spuare miles, and 
 extends from the Lakes to the Atlantic Ocean. Population in 
 1850 was 3,097,394, and in 1790 it was only 340,120. Num- 
 ber of dwellings in the State were in 1850, 473,936, and fami- 
 lies, 666,869. Improved land, 12,408,986 acres; and unimprov- 
 ed, 6,710,120 acres. Value of lands, $554,456,649. Value of 
 live stock, $73,570,499. And value of farming implements, 
 and machinery, $22,046,926. Militia force of the State in 1851 
 was 265,293 men. Number of banks and branches in the State 
 was 19. Number of churches in the Stale in 1850, were 4,048, 
 capable of accommodating 1,896 ,229 persons, and valued at $21,- 
 189,707. 
 
 Children taught during the year at free schools, were 794,500, 
 and the total cost of supporting common schools, were $1,544,- 
 519 41. It is stated, that this State maintains the best free school 
 system in the Union. 
 
 Dunkirk is handsomely situated on the shore of Lake Erie in 
 Chautauque county, State of New York, and is at the terminus 
 of the New York and Erie railroad, 510 miles long to the city of
 
 SKETCHF8 OE THE COUIt^ftY. 165 
 
 New York. Dunkirk is also situated on the railroad from Buffa- 
 lo to Chicago, Illinois. At this point there is a good harbor in 
 the lake, and the place commences to grow with much rapidity, 
 since these roads were constructed. 
 
 It contains almost five thousand inhabitants, three churches, 
 three flouring mills and twenty stores. Manufactures are also 
 commencing to construct all the articles that the market demands. 
 Already there is established here a printing press, which issues 
 a weekly Whig paper. 
 
 Dunkirk is situated in such commercial focus, that it will rise, 
 and flourish with the country, and become a considerable city. 
 
 Buffalo is the next city on our route, which is situated on a 
 high and beautiful bluff of Lake Erie; is a port of entry, and 
 capital of Erie county, New York. 
 
 Buffalo is built on a site, rising gradually from the lake for 
 two miles, and from which elevation a delightful prospect of the 
 lake, the surrounding country and the Niagara river can be ob- 
 tained. A good harbor on the lake at this city is made by the 
 bay of Buffalo creek, and a pier of 1,500 feet being extended in- 
 to the lake. Also, this city is situated at the termini of the great 
 canal, connecting the lakes with the ocean, and many railroads, 
 which afford to this place great commercial facilities. 
 
 The mountains on one side, and the lakes on the other, make 
 Buffalo a kind of commercial funnel through which the Eastern 
 and Western commerce is compelled to pass; and the increase and 
 rapid growth of the city has already established its commercial 
 importance. 
 
 It was laid out by the Holland company in 1801; but it re- 
 mained an obscure village until the war of 1812 with Great 
 Britain, and then it became notorious for both its good and bad 
 fortune; as the euemy burnt every house in it, in 1813, except 
 two.
 
 166 CLEVELAND, IBIB DUHKIBB. AND BUFFALO. 
 
 In 1825, \vhen the great canal was constructed to the Hudson 
 river, then this city gave unequivocal evidence of its life and ac^ 
 tivity and now it is the fourth city in the State of New York, 
 and is supposed in commerce to he excelled hy only three or 
 four cities in the Union. In 1850, it contained a population of 
 42,260, and the population is estimated to have increased to 60,- 
 000 at the present time. 
 
 Although it possesses great natural advantages of commerce, 
 yet it also has of recent date, many artificial facilities added to 
 it. The numerous railroads terminating in, and passing through, 
 this city, connect it with all parts of the Union. 
 
 A light-house is erected at the end of the pier; and all other 
 improvements will he made here that will add any thing to the 
 advancement of commerce. 
 
 Of the imports into this city in 1850 from the Western States, 
 were in part: 1,103,039 bbls. of flour; 3,681,346 bushels wheat; 
 . 2,533,378 bushels corn; 52,124,275 feet lumber, and other arti- 
 cles of commerce of this port in about the same proportion. 
 
 The shipping owned in this district in 1850, was 39,679 ton, 
 of which 23,088 ton were propelled by steam. 
 
 All the clearances of vessels to Canada and the ports of the 
 United States from this city in 1850, were 748 vessels; and ton- 
 nage, 103,593. Entrances, 719 vessels, and tonnage 101,992. 
 Value of freights in 1850 by the Erie canal, was $41,859,260; 
 and railroad from Albany, $6,041 46; which have very much in- 
 creased within three or lour years. 
 
 The city is laid out with broad and regular streets, many a 
 hundred feet wide, which are studded with elegant and capacious 
 buildings, both public and private. In this city are three grand 
 public squares, that are not only an ornament to the place, but 
 are also of great service to the health of the citizens. 
 
 Water is supplied the city through pipes, and the city is light-
 
 fcfcEfClIES OT fcHE COUNTRY. 167 
 
 e<! with gas. In the fire department, there are nine companies" 
 and all the apparatus necessary to extinguish fire. 
 
 Thirty stately and elegant churches are built in this city, by 
 the various Christian denominations, and well supplied with 
 learned and devout pastors. 
 
 A new and elegant Catholic Cathedral presents its noble and 
 majestic form in this city, and is a model of exact symetry and 
 architecturaljbeauty. Scarcely a holy sanctuary in the country 
 surpasses the above in the grand design of the architect, and the 
 nice and finished execution of the work. 
 
 Education is not neglected in this city. There are fifty fine 
 schools sustained at the public expense, in which tuition is bestow- 
 ed with the same liberality as ( the light from Heaven is given to 
 man. Also many private schools and seminaries of learning ex- 
 ist in this city, where many receive an education, 
 
 The University of Buffalo was chartered in 1846, and has a 
 medical department attached io it. This is a growing and flour- 
 ishing institution. 
 
 A young men's association is organized here, containing six 
 thousand volumes of rare and choice books. The German young 
 men have a similar association, whose library contains 2,000 vol- 
 umes, mostly in the German language. A cabinet of mineral and 
 zoological specimens is established in this city, and in the winter 
 lectures are delivered here by learned and profound scholars. 
 
 Amongst the institutions of benevolence, are the Orphan Assy- 
 lum, the City Hospital, the hospital of the Sisters of Charity and 
 the Association for the relief, of the poor. 
 
 An institution is about to be organized here, as an Assylum for 
 the unfortunate females, who are anxious to persue the virtuous 
 footsteps of their "illustrious predecessor" Mary Magdaline. 
 
 Buffalo is celebrated for her intelligent and efficient press, 
 which is well sustained by an enlightened community. Six daily
 
 168 CLEVELAND, ERI, DUMKIRK AVD BUFFALO. 
 
 papers, and about ten weeklies, together with many tri, and semi- 
 weekly sheets medical, agricultural and horticultural papers, art 
 published in this city. 
 
 The learned professions here , are ably sustained by eminen 
 scholars and accomplished gentlemen. Many dignitaries of the 
 Nation reside in this city:among others are Ex- President Fillmore 
 and Judge Hall, Ex-Post Master General. 
 
 The fortunate location of this city its excellent health, and th( 
 intelligence a.nd energy of its population, will ensure to it in i 
 short time, a high standing in the foremost ranks of the great cit 
 ies of the United States. 
 
 Many scenes of historic interest have occurred in this vicinity 
 in the border warfare between the French and English in older 
 times: and between the English and Americans in more moden 
 days. But the time is not far distant, when the frontier betwee] 
 the United States and Canada will be annihilated, aud the whoL 
 of North America will be one continuous republic, sustained, un 
 der the guidance of Providence, by the wisdom and patriotism o 
 the peaceable and intelligent people of the Union. And I de 
 voutly implore the vengeance of Heaven against the first traito 
 who dares to raise his voice or arm against the Union. 
 
 Fort Erie is situated on the Canada shore of Lake Erie, near 
 ly opposite Buffalo, and was in the late war, the scene of man; 
 of the most sanguinary conflicts on the frontier. 
 
 Early in July, 1814, Gen. Brown captured Fort Erie and on 
 hundred and thirty-seven men were surrendered to him withou 
 opposition. 
 
 Fort Erie on the 14th Aug., 1814, was not much better tha 
 an open field, when the British forces attcked it. 
 
 Gen. Drummon, the British commander, with a force of 5,00 
 regulars, on the 4th Aug., besieged the fort, then under th 
 command of Gen. Gaines. The American troops did not much ex
 
 OF THE COUNTRY. 169 
 
 ceed half the number of the British. The enemy advanced their 
 works within a distance of 400 yards of the Fort, and commen- 
 ced a heavy cannonade, and kept it up for two days. The A- 
 mericans retuned the fire with vigor and spirit. On the night of 
 the 14th. an assault was made by the enemy, and repulsed with 
 a loss of 900 men; while the Americans lost only 84. 
 
 The assault was made in the dark of the night, and such bloody 
 charges and repulses were inflicted on each other, that scarcely 
 ever was witnessed before in the most sanguinary conflicts of 
 contending armies. At ihe most critical moment, amid loud de- 
 nunciations by the Americans, cheering by the English, and the 
 noise, roar and crash of arms in a dreadful night struggle for 
 mastery, between people almost of the same race, it was an- 
 nounced to ihe American General that the enemy had captured 
 one of the bastions of the Fort. All the other efforts of the ene- 
 my had been repulsed. After many desperate efforts of the A- 
 mericans had been made to dislodge the English from the bas- 
 tion, and day-light had appeared, yet British courage and obsti- 
 nacy had succeeded in retaining the bloody bastion. A desper- 
 ate corps of Americans were about to dispel the enemy, or die in 
 the attempt, when a spark of fire was, by some means commu- 
 nicated to the powder magazina under the bastion, and the Brit- 
 ish soldiers, the bastion and all, were blown up together high in 
 the air. Thus ended the first desperate battle at Fort Erie. Gen. 
 Brown having partially recovered of his wounds, took command 
 of the troops. 
 
 On the 17th Sept., he made a sortie from Fort Erie; although 
 the enemy had far superior force, and had their works advanced 
 within 400 yards of the Fort, within thirty minutes the whole 
 British entrenchments were in our possession: but a large force 
 of the enemy having arrived, and the object of the assault had 
 been accomplished, the Americans again retired to the Fort. 
 
 29
 
 170 KIAGARA, ROOflBSTfiR AND ALBAN*. 
 
 The American loss was 79 killed, and 432 wounded and missing. 
 The enemy lost 500 killed and wounded, and 385 captured. 
 
 The result of this gallant sortie discouraged the British, who, on 
 the night of the 21st, raised the siege, which had continued 49 
 days, and retired to their strong entrenchments behind Chippe- 
 wa. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 NIAGARA, ROCHESTER AND ALBANY. 
 
 Niagara river is the discharge of the waters of the Lakes, 
 running north-west 46 miles from Lake Erie, to Ontario, and 22 
 miles from Buffalo is the celebrated cataract. Black Rock is a 
 small town situated three miles north of Buffalo, on the lake at 
 the point where the Niagara river leaves it, and at the terminus 
 of the Erie canal, This town was burnt by the English in the 
 war of 1812. 
 
 An excellent railroad, 22 miles long, connects Buffalo with the 
 Falls, and passes several villages on the route. 
 
 Within three miles of the falls, is the entrance of a small creek 
 Cayuga, into the Niagara, where La Salle made an encamp- 
 ment, in the year 1679, and built the first vessel, ever sailed on 
 the lakes. He called it "the Griffin," in honor of the coat of 
 arms of Count Frontenac, the Governor General of New France. 
 On the 7th Aug., 1679, La Salle and exploring party, amidst a 
 great concourse of Indians, a general discharge of fire arms; 
 and with the prayers of the clergy, and the Te Deum being suog 
 sailed up the Niagara river, and entered Lake Erie.
 
 SKETCHES OF rttE COUNTRY. 171 
 
 Just below this point, the waters of Niagara are agitated and 
 convulsed, as if an earthquake were at work under them. The 
 greenish-blue color of the waters, make a marked contrast with 
 the "white caps" as they were called in olden times on the Wes- 
 tern waters. 
 
 It is the immense quantity of water as well as its great veloci- 
 ty just obove the falls, that gives the floods of this river all the 
 contortions and tumult that the combined force of all the torna- 
 does could effect. The river above is a mild placid stream, but 
 before it reaches the grand cataract, it appears to become wild 
 and crazy, and at last leaps, head-long down the cataract, 158 
 feet into an unfathomable abyss, with the continued roar of thun- 
 der. 
 
 I will say: that I am about to give the best, and only good de- 
 scription of the falls that ever was told or written, and the only 
 one that can be satisfactory, is to see the falls themselves; they must 
 appear for themselves: as no one can describe them. 
 
 A very inadequate idea of the cataract would be given by stating , 
 that all the immense volume of waterfalls 158 feet over a preci- 
 pice; the descent one-half mile above the falls was 50 feet, and 
 that there is there an eternal roaring noise. This description of 
 the great cataract, would be as insipid, and as different from the 
 sight itself, as to say Henry Clay made an eloquent speech, rath- 
 er than to hear and see the great orator produce some of his ex- 
 traordinary bursts of eloquence. 
 
 The falls speak a Divine eloquence, apparently from the 
 Throne itself, which penetrates the heart with awe and sublimity. 
 It impresses us with the awful feelings of being in the immediate 
 presence of Divine power, and makes us feel our own compara- 
 tive littleness. The eternal thunders of these waters, and the 
 great volume itself, tumbling head-long down such great distance, 
 impresses the visitor with a kind of awful sublimity, that defies
 
 1 
 
 72 NIAGARA, ROCHESTER AND ALBANY. 
 
 description. Nature appears here in all her huge outlines, to 
 astonish, and impress us with veneration towards the Great Arch- 
 itect, and to demonstrate the incalculable distance between man 
 and his Creator. 
 
 Every reflecting mind will return from a visit to the falls, a 
 chastened, and a pious, and a better, man. 
 
 I think the conclusion will be with all reflecting persons, after 
 visiting this interesting scence, that the waters of the Niagara 
 river made this channel from one lake to the other, and at the 
 termination of a very remote period, the lakes will be drained to 
 the ocean through the valley of the Niagara and St. Lawrence 
 rivers. And it would rot be surprising, if the records of millions 
 of ages back, could be consulted, that there was a time whei 
 this same volume of water, that now passes over the Falls, flow- 
 ed down the Illinois river Valley ,and that between Lakes Erie ant 
 Ontario, was a high and solid rock, without the semblance of r 
 river channel. 
 
 Another evidence of the channel being made by the waters o 
 the river, is, that that the banks rise gradually below the Falls 
 and at Lewistown, they are 310 feet high. This shows that thi 
 water is wearing the channel deeper. 
 
 The great English geologist, Mr. Lyell, says: it has taken th< 
 Niagara river 275,000 years to ware away the present falls frori 
 Lake Ontario to the place they are at present. It is ascertaine<" 
 to be true, that the Falls, since the settlement of the country 
 have been worn off considerably, and are moving nearer Lak 
 Erie. 
 
 The greatest quantity of water flows over the Horse Shot 
 Falls, as they are called, next to the Canada side; as Goat Island 
 divides the river into two unequal parts, just at the falls. 
 
 The abyss of water at the foot of the cataract, wherein such 
 an ocean of water falls so far, seems to be agitated and raging-
 
 SKETCHES OE THE COUNTRY. 
 
 IT: 
 
 * 
 
 with more than earthly power. If they idea of fire had not got- 
 ten out in public, a,s the place of torment for the wicked, this 
 place might well answer for a place of suffering for sinners. 
 
 A tower of rock, 45 feet high, is erected on the top of the prec- 
 ipice near the Horse Shoe Falls, to enable visitors to enjoy a 
 more extended view of the scenery. All this section around the 
 Fall seem to be composed of water, spray and "water thunder," 
 as the Indians called it. The banks of the river below the Falls 
 are more than 200 feet of rocks to the water, perpendicular or 
 projecting; which evidently were worn away by the action of the 
 water. The river above the Falls is generally 200 feet deep, 
 and 150 below. 
 
 One mile and a half below the Falls, is the wire-suspension 
 bridge, which looks so aerial and unsubstantial, that it appears 
 as if it had dropped from Fairy land, resting upon nothing, and 
 the ends fastened to the clouds or rainbow. 
 
 This bridge, is 800 feet long, and 250 above the water. The 
 banks of the river being either perpendicular or projecting over 
 the water. It was difficult to get the wire first across the river. 
 The first wire was tied to the tail of a kite and kited over the 
 abyss. Other wires and ropes were then passed over, by means 
 )f the first, until there is now a bridge erected there, 
 
 The first abutments were made of w r ood, 54 feet high; but last 
 all, the abutments fora new wire bridge were being made, very 
 arge, of solid masonry, 80 feet high, rising from the brink of 
 his awful abyss; so as to have two bridges, one above the other, 
 rossing the river at this place. One was intended for the rail- 
 iOad cars and the other for the ordinary purposes of a bridge. 
 Two of my traveling companions and myself, crossed the riv- 
 er in a carriage on this bridge, and the wire being so small, it 
 appeared we had resigned to faith without works. It was at 
 'cast 250 feet above a foaming, raging river, 250 feet deep. 
 

 
 174 NIAGARA, ROCHESTER AND ALBANY. 
 
 On the Canada side of the river, the best view of the Falls 
 can be enjoyed; and it was on this side near the cataract that a 
 part of the Table Rock recently fell into the river. 
 
 A steam ferry boat, called "The Maid of the Mist," plies 
 across the river just below the Falls. On the American side, 
 there is a kind of almost perpendicular railroad, that moves the 
 passenger up and down the bank in cars, by steam power. Also 
 steps of plank are constructed to go up and down the bank of the 
 river. On the Canada side, there is a kind of winding road cut 
 through the rock to the water. 
 
 Below the Falls, on the British side, is a museum of rare curi- 
 osities, which would be much admired, if the grand cataract was 
 not in sight. The jaws of a whale were there exhibited of ex- 
 traordinary size, No one that has the capacity to admire the 
 Falls, would care much about the museum, under these circumstan- 
 ces one is in a nut-shell: while the other is the greatest work of 
 nature. 
 
 About three miles below the Falls opposite the Devil's Hole, is 
 Bloody Run; where the Iroquois Indians destroyed a detachment 
 of English soldiers in 1763. All were killed and cast over the 
 precipice into the Niagara river, except two persons who escaped 
 death from the savage tomahawk. 
 
 The French, before the transfer of the country to the English, 
 erected a fort on Schlosser Island;and the same Island witnessed 
 in modern times, a great outrage, committed by British au- 
 thority on the Americans: by an armed English force, attacking 
 the citizens asleep in the Caroline steamer killing Darfee, and 
 destroying the vessel. Our Government was bashful in resent- 
 ing this insult. 
 
 During the late war with Great Britain, near the Falls of 
 Niagara, were fought two of the most sanguinary battles that the 
 American army were engaged in, on the Canada frontier. The
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 175 
 
 battles of Chippewa and Lunday's Lane, both fought in 1814, 
 against superior force of well trained British soldiers, raised the 
 character of the American army to the highest pinnacle of fame, 
 and the distinguished Generals, under whose talents and intre- 
 pidity they were achieved, have won for themselves a high stand- 
 ing and reputation, that will remain forever in the hearts of their 
 countrymen. In the battle of Lunday's Lane, in the dark hours 
 of night, the various bloody charges of the contending forces 
 were never before surpassed, and the British hattenes were cap- 
 tured, and re-captured several times by the different armies, until 
 at last, Jonathan, by being a superior race, at the point of the 
 bayonet, achieved the victory; when the obstinate Briton was 
 forced to yield the palm of victory to his young relative. It cost 
 dear to both sides: as out of small armies, 800 men were killed 
 on each side. 
 
 Gen, Winfield Scott is the only surviving General of these ter- 
 rible conflicts, whose military fame at this day, stands pre-emi- 
 nent in history throughout the earth. There is no man alive that 
 enjoys the high military reputation and fame, as he does. The 
 other three Generals, Brown, Gaines and Ripley, have been re- 
 moved by the Supreme Commader, from the earthly muster roll, 
 and placed, no doubt, on the Heavenly parade-ground, enjoying 
 eternal happiness. History has given them all an immortality in 
 the temple of fame, of which their countrymen feel an honest 
 pride. 
 
 A canal of large dimensions is being constructed on the A- 
 merican side of the Niagara river, from Lake Erie to Ontario* 
 which will be of great importance to commerce, when completed. 
 
 The Welland canal, in Canada, is large, and capable of con- 
 veying heavy vessels from one lake to the other. It is located 
 entirely west of the Niagara river, connecting Erie with Onta- 
 rio., and has no connection with that furious river.
 
 176 NIAGARA, ROCHESTER AYD ALBANY. 
 
 Our route was on excellent railroads to the city of New York, 
 and in the intermediate country of the Empire State there ure 
 much to be admired and imitated. 
 
 One strange natural feature of the country is the "Ridge 
 . Road," so called, extending from the Niagara Falls, 60 or 80 
 niles, to Rochester. It is froom 100 to 150 feet high, six or 
 'ight miles wide, and six or eight miles from Lake Ontario. It 
 s formed of sand, gravel, &c., which, at no remote period, was 
 he southern shore of the lake, and washed there by the waters 
 .if Ontario. 
 
 New York is entitled to the name of the Empire State on 
 nany considerations. One is: her great and magnificent system 
 >f internal improvements. It is stated in a report of the Engin- 
 er and Surveyor of the railroads of the State, made in February 
 ast, that the length of all the railroads in operation in the State, 
 vas 2,591 miles, and those of double track, 664 miles. Number 
 >f locomotives in use is 834. Number of passenger cars is 834; 
 >f freight cars 6,895. Miles run by passenger trains are 390,- 
 )77,283 and by freight trains, 4,227,807 miles. 
 
 Capital stock of all railroads in the State is $117,707,620 58. 
 Number of passengers on 20 railroads, in 1853, was 5,172,154. 
 About as near as can be ascertained, one and a half million 
 on of freight has been carried on the above roads last year. 
 
 These are only part of the stupendous system of railroads in 
 Deration in this State, and great preparations are being made to 
 'iirnish more and greater railroad facilities to accommodate the 
 great increase of trade and travel of the country. 
 
 The canals of the State are numerous and increasing every 
 year, to correspond with the wants and demands of the public. 
 It is in contemplation to increase the capacity of the great Erie 
 canal, two or three fold. 
 
 By the wisdom and enlightened policy of the State, the whole
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 177 
 
 country is penetrated and intersected with canals in every direc- 
 tion, and at this time, the canals, improved water courses, and 
 those in progress of construction, amount to 997 miles. All tho 
 coast navigation, navigable rivers, and small lakes, together with 
 the canals and railroads, amount to 5,625 miles of commercial 
 facilities. 
 
 The longest canal, either in Europe or America, is the Erie 
 and .Hudson canal, 364 miles, connecting the lakes with the 
 Hudson river* It cost $7,143,789 86, and the contemplated en- 
 largement, inWuding the original, will be $35,000,000. 
 
 The tonnage on this canal last year, from the Western States, 
 arriving at tide water was 1,213,690 ton, and in 1840, only 158,- 
 140 showing an increase of 1,055,550 ton in 13 years. The 
 Western States have been growing in about the same proportion. 
 
 It is estimated by the reports of the New York Engineer and 
 Surveyor of the canals, that the Western States will increase to 
 be four-fold larger than the State of Ohio is at present; that there 
 will be eight million of people, and the annual products will be 
 over three hundred million bushels of wheat, corn and other pro- 
 ducts in equal proportion making five million ton per annum , 
 conveyed on the Erie canal. 
 
 The same report says, it would require the daily arrival of 100 
 locomotives, and 15 miles of trains to do the same amount of bu- 
 siness on rail roads as is done now on the Erie canal. It is fur- 
 ther stated, in this valuable report, that by a proper enlargement 
 of this canal, most of the tonnage and business as far down as 
 the mouth of the Ohio, in the Mississippi Valley, would be con- 
 veyed to tide-water through the Erie canal. 
 
 The tonnage on all the canals in the State last year was 4,- 
 247,853 ton. On the New York Central railroad, 360,000 ton; 
 and on the New York and Erie railroad, 631,039 ton, while the 
 cost of the latter road, including the equipments, was $35,000,000,
 
 178 NIAGARA, ROCHESTER AVD ALBAVY. 
 
 and the former, $22,000,000. The receipts from passengers or 
 the Northern, Central, and New York and Erie railroads in 1853 
 exceeded $4,000,000. This sum is greater than that received 
 from freights, that year, on the above named roads. 
 
 The above is only the skeleton of the extraordinary system o: 
 improvements adopted in the Empire State. Nature did mucl: 
 for this Ststte, and the people have also done much for themselves 
 in the grand and magnificent improvements that exist in almos 
 every section of the State. The above mention^ reports made 
 to the Legislature of New York, present a great amount of sta- 
 tistical information relative to the improvements of the State and 
 Western country, and are well worthy the attention of the pub- 
 lic. 
 
 On traveling East, the cars soon reach Rochester, the capita; 
 of Monroe county, N. Y., which is situated on both sides of the 
 Gennessee river, in latitude 43 8' North. Rochester is loca- 
 ted in a region of exceedingly fertile soil, and within a few miles 
 of Lake Ontario. 
 
 Many facilities of commerce are afforded this city, which has 
 caused it to increase and flourish in a surprising manner. In 
 1812, only two houses existed in the place, and at this time, il 
 contains a population of more than 50,000 souls. It is located al 
 the falls ot the Genessee river, which affords immense water 
 power to propell all classes of machinery. 
 
 The river, within the limits of the city, falls 268 feet, and the 
 great falls are 96 feet in the centre of the city. It was from a 
 projection of in these falls, where the famous Sam Patch made 
 his last leap his body into the water, and his spirit into the 
 "spirit land." His mania is about similar to that of the Acre- 
 nauts, who seek the pleasure to destroy themselves in public. It 
 should be made a Penitentiary offence to ascend the air in a 
 balooD.
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 179 
 
 At these falls are erected 22 flouring mills, with 100 run of 
 stone. Six hundred thousand barrels of flour are manufactured 
 here annually, and the greater portion shipped off. 
 
 Other manufactures are extensively prosecuted in this city; 
 and are increasing each and every year. Many furnaces are 
 erected here, casting stoves, and farming implements; and nu- 
 merous large machinery works. 
 
 Barton & Co., employ 200 hands in the edge tool business, 
 and the scale factory isjargely prosecuted here. 
 
 A large stone edifice, six stories high, is erected here, wherein * 
 is established an extensive cotton yarn, and cloth factory, which * 
 employ 200 hands. 
 
 A large steamboat factory is established here, and also woolen 
 cloth factories; tanneries; and all the manufactures that are gen- 
 erally prosecuted in any American city, exist here in great abun- 
 dance, 
 
 Five Banks are established in this city, with a capital of $930,- 
 000. Also two savings Banks, and many brokerage houses that 
 do a sharp business on the needy. 
 
 Education is conducted here with wisdom and liberality, by a 
 board of supervisors. Free and common schools are established in 
 the city, with a munificence that speaks volumes for its citizens. 
 All classes of children meet here at the common reservoir of in- 
 struction, and imbibe those principles of equality and republican- 
 ism that elevate and adorn the American citizen. Private and 
 Sunday Schools, are also numerous in the city, and female Acad- 
 emies are also established in abundance and efficiency. The 
 University of Rochester, established in 1850, has a Professor 
 and 109 students, and a library of 200 volumes. 
 
 The Athenaeum has a library of 5,000 volumes; and annual 
 course of lectures are delivered. 
 
 The Court House is an edifice of rare attraction, and a model
 
 160 MIAGARA, ROCHESTER AVD ALBAVY. 
 
 of the New York style of the most approved architecture. The 
 Western House of Refuge, is a large building strongly persuad- 
 ing by works and stripes, the juvenile delinquents to reform, and 
 persue the ways of virtue. It has in it 300 lads, at -times, whose 
 conduct was not governed by the ten commandments. 
 
 Hotels of the city are generally large, elegant and attractive: and 
 so are the Theatres. 
 
 About 30 churches exist in this city, whose noble and majestic 
 
 forms adorn the city, and whose pastors distil into the heart, the 
 
 * duty of man to his Creator. 
 
 f Many presses of great ability and efficiency are established in 
 this cit\| and from them are issued 19 regular papers 3 daily, 
 and the rest weekly, tri-weekly, &c. The Genessee Farmer, is 
 published here, which is an excellent agricultural sheet,r.onveying 
 to every farmer who will read it, the information that will make 
 him a better agriculturalist. 
 
 The tonnage of the Genessee district, in 1850, was 1,037 ton, 
 and the clearances for Foreign countries, 215 vessels, and 40,077 
 ton. i : ^ . 
 
 On this route is the small and venerable city of Schenectady, 
 the capital of the county of that name, in N Y.; containing aboul 
 9,000 souls. It was first settled by the Dutch, in the year 162Q 
 and is among the oldest cities in the Union. In 1690, the French 
 and Indians captured the place, killed 63 persons, and took awaj 
 22 prisoners. It contained then 64 houses, which were mostl} 
 destroyed. 
 
 It is the focus of many railroads, and the Erie canal passing ii 
 must raise it to some importance. One factory near this place 
 makes 1,800,00 brooms in the year. 
 
 Many factories, schools and churches are established here, anc 
 the citizens are moral, orderly and correct. 
 
 Over 17 miles of exceedingly sterile land, the cars on the rail-
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 
 
 181 
 
 road, lands us at the famous city of Albany. It was called Al- 
 bany in honor of the Duke of York and Albany. In 1609, the 
 great navigator, Henerich Hudson, is supposed to have sailed 
 to this point, and the Dutch in 1623 established a trading post 
 here. It is now the political capital of the State, and contains 
 upwards of 60,000 inhabitants. 
 
 This city is built on the west of the Hudson river from the 
 edge of the water for the some distance west, rising on a high 
 eminence of 2 or 300 feet. On the top of this elevation a beau- 
 tiful prospect of the country is enjoyed, and the mountains in 
 Massachusetts, as I am informed, are visible from this point. 
 
 Some distance up from the river, are erected the public build- 
 ings, to accommodate the Government of the State. The Capi- 
 tol is a splendid building, 115 feet long and 90 wide, and finish- 
 ed in exquisite style. The Legislature holds its sessions in this 
 edifice; and it also contains a large State library. The State 
 House is composed of beautiful marble, and is handsomely situa- 
 ted on the east side of the Park. Herein are contained the State 
 offi cers the Governor, down to^the lowest State authority. On 
 the same beautiful square is the City Hall, built of the same ma- 
 terial, to accommodate the city dignitaries. 
 
 The Exchange is a large granite building at the end of State 
 street, and displays'an architectural beauty that is rarely sur- 
 passed. 
 
 Between 60 and 70 churches are erected in this city, which 
 are in the hands of the various Christian sects, and intended to 
 elevate, ernoble and make happy here and hereafter, the human 
 family. feu^>. 
 
 Schools, both free, common and Sunday, are sustained here 
 with a liberality and'good sense, that adds much to the growth, pros- 
 perity and happiness of the citizens. Water, and gas light are 
 well supplied to the city, and distributed in every street, 
 
 31
 
 182 KIAGARA, ROCHESTER AND 
 
 Five daily papers are issued in this place, and many weekly. 
 They are ably edited, and enjoy a wide circulation to their ad- 
 miring patrons. 
 
 It was in this city, where the celebrated Albany Regency sat, 
 that once governed the State in political matters. The conven- 
 tion system was matured and perfected in this State, and for ma- 
 ny years it reigned triumphantly throughout the great extent of 
 the Empire State. In a popular vote, I cannot discover any bet- 
 ter system to concentrate the voice of the people on any princi- 
 ple, than the above; but what has rendered it unpopular in 
 some sections, is the fraud practised in it. A great principle can 
 scarcely ever be prosecuted without the convention system, with 
 all its blemishes. 
 
 A great many splendid and elegant hotels are organised and 
 elegantly kept in this city. One, the Donevan House, is a spa- 
 cious and elegant building capable of accommodating a vast num- 
 ber of guests. I presume that it is at the General Assembly that 
 so many, and that such capacious hotels are needed. We entered 
 the Donavan House to dinner, and the sight was lovely, charm- 
 ing and beautiful. All the attendants around the tables were 
 young, well dressed and modest girls. Not a male attendant 
 was to be seen: but in their stead, girls, nicely attired in uniform 
 were hovering around the guest? and ministering to their various 
 appetites. 
 
 Old Albany is becoming regenerated, and born anew to com- 
 merce and manufactures. For many years it was stationary, la- 
 boring under the ancient regime: that brick could not be made in 
 America, but must be shipped from Holland. This city is well 
 situated for commerce, and there are 3 or 4,000 passengers, 
 transported daily, between it and the city of N. Y., when the 
 navigation is open. 
 
 Factories in Albany are numerous and efficient, and rapidly
 
 SKETCHES OE THE COUNTRY. 163 
 
 increasing. Many iron works, carriage factories, type foundries 
 oil cloth shops, saw and planing machines, and breweries, are ef- 
 ficiently prosecuted. 
 
 Thus we leave the ancient and respectable city of Albany, and 
 betake ourselves to the cars at nigbt, for the city of New York. 
 
 On this route, 145 miles, to N. Y., have transpired many 
 memorable and extraordinary scenes of the RevolutiSn. 
 
 Two of the most interesting transactions were the capture of 
 Stony Point, and the capture of Major Andre. 
 
 On the 15th July, 1779, General Wayne was ordered by the 
 Commander-in-Chief, with a detatchment of the regular arm, to 
 capture Stony Point, situated on the west side of the Hudson riv- 
 er. In the dark hours of the night, Wayne, with a "forlorn 
 hope," of 20 men, entered the Fort, and opened the gates to his 
 army; but of the 20 men, 17 were killed, and Wayne himself 
 wounded. Five hundred and forty-three British soldiers were 
 captured with the Fort, and 63 killed. 
 
 Major Andre, on the night .of the 21st Sept., 1780, was sent 
 on shore from a British ship, to negotiate with Arnold, and at- 
 tempted to return to the British army at N. Y.; but was captured 
 by three militia-men, Paulding, Williams and Van Wert. He 
 was honorably tried by an impartial Court Martial, and condemn- 
 ed as a spy. He was executed; but his gentlemanly deportment, 
 and excellent character, produced much feeling throughout the 
 country in his favor. But again: it was then the most important 
 crisis in the Revolution; and the sound judgment of Washington 
 decided for the country, against the lady parlor feelings for An- 
 dre. 
 
 The State of Ohio has called three counties, Paulding, Will- 
 iams and Van Wert, in honor of these patriots. It is also hon* 
 orable to the State.
 
 184 THE CRYSTAL PALACE, 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE CBYSTAL PALACE. 
 
 This is among the greatest institutions on earth. Much of the 
 extraordinary productions of both nature and art, are here pre- 
 sented for the information and improvement of the people. 
 
 The Crystal Palace is the World's Grand Fair, where all na- 
 tions meet with their most interesting and important manufac- 
 tures and products of nature, and exhibit them for the improve- 
 ment of the whole. 
 
 It is beautifully situated on an eminence in the north-west sub- 
 urbs of the city of New York, on 6th Avenue, between streets 
 40 and 42. It is 4 miles from the Battery; and adjoining on the 
 west the reservoir of the Croton Water Works. 
 
 The plat of ground on which the building is erected, is 455 
 feet by 445, and is mostly covered with the edifice. 
 
 It is entirely composed of iron and glass, except the floors of 
 the building. It is in the form of a Greek Cross, as the archi- 
 tects designate it, and is surmounted with a splendid dome, 123 
 feet high. From the north, south and west, are entrances into
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 185 
 
 the Palace by avenues 27 feet wide, and they all lead direct to 
 an actagonal space ot 100 feet in diameter. The whole build- 
 ing is almost 451 feet long, and 445 wide. The first story be- 
 ing of actagonal form, and the second on the order of the Greek 
 Cross. From the first floor to the second is 24 feet to the next 
 22 and the third 15. 
 
 Whole amount of iron employed in the building is 1,800 ton 
 15,000 panes of glass, being 55,000 square feet, and 750,000 
 feet of piank for floors. The aera of the two floors is 5 3-4 acres. 
 The outer walls are composed of cast iron framing and panel 
 work, in which are inserted the sashes of the windows and glass, 
 and the openings foy ventilation. 
 
 The glass is 1-8 of an inch thick, and made translucent, but 
 not transparent. This admits a modest and decent light, and 
 not such glaring and vulgar light as entered the Crystal Palace 
 in London. 
 
 The glass is so stained that the interior has the appearance of 
 buff or cream color, which is moderated by other colors, until 
 the best effect of light is obtained within. 
 
 An Aroade, 451 feet long, and 75 wide is erected between 
 the reservoir and the Palace, and is two stories high. This was 
 an additional building to accommodate the reception of such vast 
 quantities of articles, more than were first anticipated. At each 
 angle of the edifice are towers of the same material as the main 
 building, eight sided 14 feet in diameter, and 76 feet high. On 
 the top of these towers the flag of the U. S. is flying. The 
 dome is said to be the largest in America, and at the top there is 
 a ring of wrought iron, 20 feet in diameter, to which the upper 
 bars of the dome are fastened. Surmounting this ring, is a lan- 
 tern of gigantic dimensions and of exquisite workmanship. The 
 top of this lamp is 151 feet above the street. All this building 
 is supplied with gas light and water, also with stoves in winter. 
 
 32
 
 186 
 
 THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 
 
 On entering this vast rotunda of 100 feet in diameter, and 
 123 feet high, and beholding the statuary, and the beautiful fab- 
 rics from all nations, extending hundreds of yards in every di- 
 rection, the scene is splendid and magnificent beyond descrip- 
 tion. 
 
 The interior structure is laid off in four grand divisions, and 
 those divisions are parcelled of into courts, for the reception of 
 articles of different nations. Large letters are placed over the 
 different countries, so that the products of each nation can easily 
 be discovered from the others. 
 
 The courts are appropriated into classes of articles. All these 
 arrangements are made to avoid confusion. 
 
 There are 31 classes of the various articles exhibited, exclu- 
 sive of the machine arcade and gallery of painting. They are 
 as follows: 
 
 1, minerals, and mining, &c.. 2, chemical products. 3, sub- 
 stances used as food. 4, substances employed in manufactures. 
 5, machinery of direct use. 6, machinery and tools for manu- 
 facturing. 7, civil engineering. 8, naval architecture. 9, ag- 
 ricultural implements 10, philosophical instruments. 11, man- 
 ufactures of cotton. 12, of wool. 13, of silk. 17, of flax and 
 hemp. 15, mixed fabrics. 16, leather, &c. 17, paper, type, &c. 
 18, dyed and printed fabrics. 19, tapestry, &c. 20, wearing 
 apparel. 21, cutlery, &c. 22. Iron, brass, &c. 23, work in 
 precious metals. 24, glass manufacture, &c, 25, Porcelain. 
 26, decorative furniture. 27, marble manufacture, &c. 28, 
 manufactures of animal substances. 29, miscellaneous manu- 
 factures. 30, musical instruments and 31 the fine arts. 
 
 The first object that obtains universal attraction, is the gigan- 
 tic statue of Gen. Washington and his steed. I presume, the 
 statue horse and all are 20 feet high; dark bronze color, and 
 made in bold colossal proportions.
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 187 
 
 An Italian, Baron Marochetti, was the sculptor. This statue 
 forces on the mind the glorious Revolution, and the consequent 
 emancipation of mankind from tyranny and oppression. 
 
 In the space set apart for Denmark, is placed a group among 
 the most interesting in the Crystal Palace. It is Christ and his 
 twelve Apostles, by Thorwaldsen. 
 
 This court, containing this group, is semi-circular, and has, be- 
 : ore the front, a seat, that is mostly occupied by admiring visitors. 
 The statue of the Savior is placed at the furtherest end of the 
 semi-circle, and six of the Apostles on each side. The statues 
 ire of a beautiful white color, and show to great advantage. 
 There is something awful, grand and sublime in this group, and 
 it is astonishing, the extraordinary talents of the artist, in 
 giving these figures that serene, sublime and holy dignity they 
 present. I often gazed upon them with religious veneration, 
 and reverence to the Supreme Being, whom they represent on 
 earth. Paul has taken the place of the apostate Judas, and the 
 ballance, Peter, Simon, Mathew, Bartholomew, John, "the be- 
 loved disciple," James, the brother of John, James, Thomas, 
 Philip, the aged, Andrew and Thaddeus, are large, erect fig- 
 ures. In the countenance of the Savior, is a heavenly serenity 
 and piety that is indiscribable. 
 
 Many busts of great men, Webster, Clay, and almost innu- 
 merable statues are exhibited in the rotunda, from all parts of 
 the earth, which present the sublime art of the sculptor in the 
 most eminent manner. 
 
 Another exhibition was the Planetarium, from Kentucky, in- 
 vented by Mr. Barlow, which excited much admiration. It is a 
 beautiful instrument, to represent the solar system, and is 12 feet 
 diameter. The outer circle represents the zodiac and marked 
 with 12 divisions with the days of the month for one year. The 
 sun, earth, moon and other planets, are represented by gilded
 
 (88 THE CRYSTAB PALACE, 
 
 balls in proportion to their respective sizes,and the earth is made tc 
 revolve in her true elipse. The moon is made to revolve in the 
 same manner. The constant parallelism of the earth's axis, anc 
 the change of the seasons, are clearly demonstrated. This is 
 considered among the most useful apparatus, that was ever dis> 
 covered to advance the study of Astronomy. It shows the mo- 
 tions of the planets, and is turned by a hand crank. 
 
 Class number nine, containing the agricultural implements 
 exhibits an immensense number of the most approved and lates 
 inventions of the above appliances. The United States alom 
 have presented 111 different and improved inventions in agri- 
 cultural, horticultural and dairy implements. 
 
 The nations of Europe have also contributed to the stock, sc 
 that the Crystal Palace exhibits almost all, I presume, of the ag- 
 ricultural appliances known in the world. McCormick's, and At- 
 kin's reapers are there together, and many more from Illinois. 
 
 In this department I saw the old plow said to be owned anc 
 used by Roger Sherman, of Connecticut. He ploughed with i 
 before the Revolution; as I was informed. It was a vast distance 
 behind the present plow family, but it was highly interesting: as 
 being a relic of one of the best men of olden times. 
 
 In the "Exposition of Arts," as it was called in Paris, which 
 I saw in 1839, the products exhibited then were more on the 
 gay, gawdy and brilliant order, than in the Crystal Palace. 
 
 Nothing could excel the elegant and tasty finish of many fab- 
 rics exhibited in Paris; but the collection was deficient in agri- 
 cultural implements steam engines, and the more useful and 
 substantial articles exhibited in the Crystal Palace. It is proba- 
 ble the exhibition in Paris, gave rise to those in London and 
 New York. 
 
 I believe that there is no collection on earth of so mueh ma- 
 chinery, and of the same practical utility, as are exhibited in the
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 189 
 
 lachine Arcade. And there is more talent and ingenuity dis- 
 layed in the invention and wormanship of these machines, than 
 ver was before witnessed in the same amount and in the same 
 lasses of machinery. 
 
 There are two large steam engines of 60 horse power each, 
 fiat give all the machinery motion in the machine arcade, ex- 
 ept those moved by hand. 
 
 One would scarcely think it possible to excel these engines in 
 he perfection of their design and workmanship: but at the next 
 itep,is seen the Southern Belle,which seems to be the ne plus ultra 
 if human mechanism. It was made at Montgomery, Alabama , 
 .nd cost $7,000. So perfect are these engines that no tremulous 
 notion at all is discovered in their ordinary movements. 
 
 This whole arcade, 451 feet long, and 75 wide, is crowded 
 vith machinery; and in it, we may say with the Poet, as to the 
 loise and bustle, that, 
 
 "Within my ears I hear a sound 
 
 Of fifty mill-wheels whirling round." 
 
 Hydraulic machines are numerous. Pumps of all descriptions 
 ire presented, and operating on and with the water in almost 
 jvery possible manner. 
 
 In this pump family is one that produces jets des eau. The 
 water is enclosed with glass, and is forced by this pump to dis- 
 play a beautiful jet of water, which after it falls down, is taken 
 back and goes through the same routine again. The jet of wa- 
 ter is forced up several feet high, and the glass secures the spray 
 from the visitors. 
 
 A sheep washing machine of Mr. Bigg, is said, with five 
 men, to be capable of washing 500 sheep in one day. This is 
 the next thing to forcing them into existence by machinery. 
 
 Knitting and sewing machines are numerous and efficient. 
 Near at hand, are the two mammoth printing presses; one is a
 
 190 THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 
 
 cylander machine and the other a platten press one goes in fo 
 speed, and the other for nicer work. 
 
 Bemies' circular saw is one of the cutest machines I saw i 
 this world of machinery. It can saw any small wood figure : 
 pleases, Barrel machinery is there sawing the staves, puttin 
 them together, heading and hooping them, right out into an 
 size they please. This machine is not like the Buncombe black 
 smith, who said he could not tell before his job was finishec 
 what it would be. 
 
 Greely's stone dressing machine is great and efficient, work 
 ing into shape the largest granite cornices. And a striking ex 
 ample of the power of machinery is the enormous steel drill t 
 pierce the largest rocks by force of steam. Dick's boiler plat 
 shears cuts shets of cold boiler iron, half an inch thick, as easy a 
 a lady would cut pasteboard witn her scissors. 
 
 The space allowed these "Sketches," is only a kind of inde: 
 to some part of the machines exhibited in this mammoth collec 
 tion. It would require a month to see and comprehend all. Th 
 U. S. alone, have presented 438 different engines;. 
 
 The name of toys in this collection is legion, and mostly fron 
 Nuremberg Bavaria. The colognes are also numerous, an 
 sweetly scented: but the Prince of all the toy family is Gullive 
 among the Lilliputians. The representation of Gulliver, witi 
 such contempt for the little people, a*id the Lilliputians so interj 
 on tying the "big man," would cause a New England deacon t 
 laugh. 
 
 Over the machine arcade is the picture gallery of 451 fee 
 long, by 21 wide, containing 685 works of art, some of whic] 
 are among the most splendid paintings on earth. Only abou 
 30 American paintings are here exhibited. The German am 
 Dutch artists have presented the most Germany and Hollam 
 having almost the same one 150, and the other 147. Franc<
 
 SKETCHES OP THl COUNTRY. 191 
 
 ibout TOO; Italy, 80; England over 50, and Belgium about 30. 
 
 The cabinet of minerals is well filled, Gold is so lavishly 
 exhibited that within the reach of one's arm one hundred thou- 
 sand dollars may be touched. 
 
 Iron ore from Missouri, and coal from every where else, are 
 here in abundance. 
 
 It is astonishing the great number of fire arms, cannon, swords 
 and all the weapons used, when "war's deadly blast is blowing." 
 In a large department, are the various suits of armor of old Eng- 
 land, in the times of Henry VIII., 1530 Queen Elizabeth, 
 1590 and the time, 1630, of Charles L, and the effigies of cav- 
 alliers of those periods. 
 
 There are 22 various articles of guns, pistols and warlike wea- 
 pons, exhibited by Great Britain. France, Germany, and other 
 nations, also, are well represented in the arms, and of the most 
 elegant manufacture. 
 
 The United States have exhibited a grand collection of milita- 
 ry'jmplements, models of ships,and almost everything else of na- 
 val and military manufacture, amounting in all, to 71 different 
 and distinct articles. Nothing can exceed the ingenious and el- 
 egant workmanship displayed in these military an4 naval fabric*, 
 which raises the mechanism therein exhibited, to l the highest pin- 
 nicleoffame. 
 
 A strict and rigid police is established in the Palace, whose 
 efforts keep peace and quiet in the premises, and the rights of 
 meum and tuum are seldom infringed. 
 
 The cost of the construction of the Crystal Palace, exceeded 
 $200,000, and I am informed, a second company has the man- 
 agement of it at present. 
 
 In every view, this institution has a good effect. It causes 
 millions of people to visit it interchange sentiments on the va- 
 rious manufactures there exhibited , and thereby are much in-
 
 192 THE CRYSTAL PALACE. 
 
 formed and improved. The various artists and mechanics iron 
 all parts of the earth, assemble here to examine the fabrics, &ni 
 converse with each other, which is a general and unbounde< 
 source of information and improvement. People from the vari 
 ous parts of the globe see each other here become acquainted 
 and leave each other better friends and better people. 
 
 The object of some in this institution maybe to realize monej 
 and even if it should be so, that does not destroy the beneficia 
 effects it has on the public. The entrance money is only fift 
 sents, regulated by law, and no one considers it high. Doubl 
 that amount is often given to enter a theatre, where vice an 
 immorality are engendered and infused into the very hearts c 
 the rising generation. 
 
 The want of space in these crude and hasty "Sketches," force 
 me to abandon the subject of the Crystal Palaeeibut I do regretji 
 and I hope to see it again; as I sincerely believe, such exhib 
 tions of the general industry of the world, do incalculable sei 
 vice to the public; but it would require months to comprehend th 
 whole. Almost six acres are covered to overflowing with fabric 
 of the most grand design and exquisite workmanship, whic 
 will require much time, and close observation to understand an 
 appreciate. Adieu to the Crystal Palace. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 NEW TORE, AND OTKER ATLANTIC CITIEi. 
 
 The city of New York, is the grand metropolis of Ameria 
 and bids fair to rival any city in the ancient hemisphere. It : 
 now the third city in Christendom, and is still increasing wit
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 193 
 
 uprising rapidity. It is admirably situated for commerce. The 
 real backbone mountains of the United States experience a de- 
 ression north-west from this city, which enables the commerce 
 :" the interior and the great West to flow into it, and the Hud- 
 >n and the East rivers form harbors for shipping, that cannot be 
 irpassed. In these rivers, there is deep water, and the ice 
 ;arcely ever interrupts the navigation; so that there is a conve- 
 ient and direct opening to the main ocean at all times. 
 
 All the interior of the country from this great emporum is 
 onderfully supplied with river navigation, canals and railroads, 
 nd through the great lakes to the Rocky if/ountains. These 
 tcilities enables this city to enjoy the commerce of thousands 
 nd thousands of miles of the interior of North America. And 
 s above stated, the main Ocean is on the other side, open at all 
 mes to all the markets of the earth. 
 
 This admirable location, and the energies of the American 
 eople, have caused this city to grow and prosper within half a 
 sntury, until it is at this day the admiration of the world. 
 
 The population of the city in 1656, was only 1,000. In 1790, 
 3,131. In 1800, 60,489. In 1850, 515,507; and at this time, 
 854, it is estimation at over 600,000. The wealth in 1800, 
 ras $24,486,370, and in 1852, $252,186,753. In 1844, the 
 rhole amount of wheat and flour conveyed to the Hudson river 
 n the Erie Canal, was 277,866 ton, and the value of the same, 
 11,211,077, and in 1852, the aggregate were 576,772 ton, and 
 alue, $22,564,256. 
 
 In 1752, the imports were $117,739,457, and the exports 
 544,187,329. 
 
 The amount of the United States revenue collected at the fol- 
 Dwing cities, was, at New York, $31,757,199 at Boston, $6,- 
 197,540 at Philadelphia. $3,667,83$ at New Orleans, &j,- 
 :95,636 at Baltimore .$1,047 ,278; and at Charleston,
 
 194 Niw YO&K, AND OTHER ATLANTIC CITIEI. 
 
 The above statistics demonstrate two positions: that the, city < 
 New York is increasing in commercial prosperity, with great n 
 pidity, and enjoys a greatness in commerce that is truly surpri: 
 ing. 
 
 The manufacturing industry has increased in this city with tt 
 same gigantic strides as the commerce has done, and both ha\ 
 reached an unexampled importance. 
 
 In the 19 wards of the city, the productive factories are 3,381 
 Capital invested, $34,232,822 hands employed, 83~620; an< 
 annual products of all are 8105,218,860. 
 
 Eminent in the factories are the iron foundries and machin 
 shops, of which the largest are the Novelty Works, Morga 
 Works, Allaire Works, the Fulton and the West strei 
 foundries. In each of the two former, about 900 hands are em 
 ployed. More than ten sugar refineries are prosecuted in th 
 city, which are superior ta most others in the U. S. About or 
 million of dollars wortfi of furniture is manufactured here anm 
 ally. 
 
 Education is placed upon a par with all the great and liber i 
 movements of the city: but still many indigent and illiterate em 
 grants are permitted to grow up without education, mostly cause 
 by the necessity for the children to work for a support. Who! 
 number of schools in 1S51 was 207, and children attending ther 
 was 107,363. A free academy is established, to instruct certai 
 students gratis, and is a splendid and magnificent edifice. It i 
 125 feet long and 80 feet wide, and constructed in the Gothi 
 style of architecture. It is 5 stories high, and cost, lot and al 
 $70,000. and will accommodate 1 ,000 scholars. 
 
 A great many colleges exist in this city for medical instructioj 
 as well as theological. 
 
 Libraries are established in abundance here. Some contai 
 45,000, volumes, and cost $120,000. The Aslor Library au
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 195 
 
 [icidents, cost in all, $400,000, and contains 60,000 Volumes, 
 
 All the periodical presses of the city in 1850, were 125, of 
 irhich 14 were daily issues, and the rest indulged in longer pe- 
 iods. All the daily circulation of 8 dailies at each issue was 
 54,261 copies, Fifty-five thousand dailies are issued by one 
 ingle press, the Sun, and 49,000 weeklies by the Tribune, 
 
 More than 250 churches stand out the eloquent and instruc- 
 ive monuments of the religion and veneration, which the citi- 
 ens of New York justly and wisely entertian for the Supreme 
 Seing. Amongst them are 12 Synagogues, to accommodate the 
 escendants otlhat race of people, who occupied more of the time 
 nd talents of Moses in the wilderness,than was pleasant to that 
 >atriarch. 
 
 Many of the Church edifices are of the most magnificent and 
 eautiful architecture that ever adorned any city in Christendom- 
 ?he venerable and imposing Gothic style is becoming "revised 
 nd corrected" in ihis city, and presents that solid and majestic 
 arm of architecture, that rose with the rise of letters in Europe. 
 
 Trinity church, on Broadway, cost $400,000, and is perhaps, 
 be most magnificent church in the Union. Length, 189 feet; 
 Teadth, 54; heighth to the rornice, 54; and to the apex of the 
 pire 264 feet. It is constructed of hewn sandstone in the most 
 .pproved Gothic style. 
 
 St. Patrick's and St. Peter's (Roman Catholic) churches, are 
 apacious, splendid and beautiful in both the design and work- 
 nanship; so is the first Paesbyterian church, on 5th Avenue. 
 Phis last splendid edifice is constructed of hewn reddish stone, 
 n the Gothic style. The spire is 160 feet high. 
 
 The above outlines of the splendor and magnificence of the 
 ^ew York churches, present an astonishing wealth, which is a 
 ery doubtful auxiliary to the meek and humble spirit of christi- 
 .nity, breathed through every page of the New Testament.
 
 196 HEW YORK, AKD OTHER* ATLANTIC CITIES. 
 
 Excessive Vealth in a church is a mill-stone around the neck oJ 
 true piety. 
 
 The hotels in New York for their magificent dimensions 
 their splendid and elegant style of architecture, and for theii 
 tasty and exquisite furniture, are not surpassed by any on the 
 Globe and when the accomplished and polished keepers are ta- 
 ken into consideration, together with the sumptuous and delicious 
 fare, the guests might almost conclude, that they had left the 
 troubles of earth, and had entered Feairy Land. 
 
 The Astor House stands high in the hotel family, "in this city, 
 and has 360 rooms. It cost $800,000, and is a palace in taste 
 for its guests. Thelrvin House, Broadway, contains 300 rooms 
 is 5 stones high, and is built of granite. The Metropolitan is 
 another magnificent hotel on Broadway, 6 stories high, built ol 
 frestone; and contains about 400 rooms. But the most eleganl 
 and magnificent hotel, is that known all over the civilized xvorld 
 as the St. Nicholas, and adds new luster to the whole family oi 
 hotels, in Europe and America. 
 
 It is situated on Broadway ,between Broome and Spring streets 
 and exhibits the ne phis ultra of architectural beauty. It is 
 stories high, built of white marble ,in all the splendid and oriental 
 perfection of architectural science, and exhibits a noble and ma- 
 jestic form, that does great honor to the American architects. Il 
 cost $1,000,000 
 
 This hotel is a small republic of itself, containing almost the 
 constituency of a well regulated community. It enjoys a post of- 
 fice, a telegraph office, eating, drinking, reading, smoking and 
 dancing saloons, together with bath rooms, barbar shops, wash 
 rooms, ard almost every convenience of comfort, and luxury, 
 that the human fiamily should, or ought to enjoy. The dining 
 saloons are spacious, magnificent and splendidly furnished. 
 
 The natural and dignified policy is adopted to permit male and
 
 
 rim COUNTRY. 
 
 197 
 
 females to form their own societies at the tables, and enjoy them- 
 selves in that mode and manner, that a just, regard to pro- 
 priety and their former usages may direct. This system produ- 
 ces a more dignified and polished society at table, than the for- 
 mer mode of secluding the sexes from each other. 
 
 A considerable portion of the front of this hotel on the lower 
 story is composed of glass, so that it was a kind of natural the- 
 atre, to observe the/'actings and the doings" on Broadway. 
 
 The good St. Nicholas himself, known to the children mostly 
 as 'iSanta Claw," is painted and his picture hung up at the 
 head of the stairs. His wallet is painted on his back, with all 
 sorts of good things in it. for the children. This is a good paint- 
 ing, and appropriate on the occasion. 
 
 The Public Works of the city are splendid and magnificent; 
 and among them all, stand unrivalled the Croton Water Works. 
 It cost $14,041,584, conveying pure and excellent water to the 
 city from the Croton river. The aqueduct is built of stone and 
 brick with strong cement, and is 8 feet 5 inches deep. It will 
 discharge six hundred million gallons of water in 24 hours. It 
 crosses the Harlan river on a^tone bridge 1,450 feet long, which 
 cost nearly a million dollars. One reservoir in the city contains 
 150,000,000 gallons of water. The pipes distributing the wa- 
 tet in the streets were 215 miles long in 1852; and increasing. 
 This is the most stupendous Water Works ever made on the 
 Globe. It is an artificial river ,40 miles long conveying water to 
 the city in the natural manner of other streams. What is it that 
 a free people cannot do? 
 
 Many of the public buildings in this city turn us back to the 
 infancy of our Government, and force upon our minds the 1 sages 
 and heroes of that day. 
 
 The site of the United States Custom House, on the corner of 
 Wall and Nassau streets, was formerly occupied by the old Cit) 
 
 34
 
 198 JfZW YORK. AND OTHER ATLANTIC CITIES. 
 
 Hall, where the first Congress sat and in it was inaugurated Pres- 
 ident Washington; This circumstance would alone immortalize 
 the site of this edifice, and make it respectable while freedom is 
 esteemed among men. The present edifice is said to be one of 
 the most perfect models of architecture extant. It is built in im- 
 tation of the Parthenon at Athens, in the Doric order, out of 
 white marble, and is 200 feet long, 90 feet wide and 80 feet high. 
 Its cost, ground included, is $1,185,000. 
 
 The new City Hall, is a splendid edifice, and displays great 
 architectural talent. It is built of white marble,is 216 feet long, 
 105 wide and 61 high. It stands in the centre of the Park, ani 
 from the centre rises a third story with a cupalo on it of elegant 
 proportions, surmounted with a collossial figure of Justice. But 
 the Merchants' Exchange, on Wall street is the most magnifi- 
 cent and towering edifice in the city of New York. It covers an 
 entire block and fronts on four streets. It is built of Quincy 
 granite, and cost, including the ground, $1,800,000. 
 
 The City Penitentiary, Lunatic Assylum, Alms House, Work 
 House, &c., are built on Blackweli's Island, five miles from the 
 city, and are all made of rock, strong and substantial. 
 
 In New York are 40 Banks with a capital of $35,834,950. 
 
 The Theatres and places of amusement, are numerous in this 
 city, and have a patronage much above their deserts. In most of 
 these fashionable evening resorts, much injury is done to the mor- 
 als of the people; but it is difficult to suppress them. 
 
 The Hippodrome occupies a large space in the upper part of 
 the city, and was much patronised last fall. As near as I can es- 
 timate the arena was about 600 feet long, and 300 wide. It is a 
 kind of circus of an eKptical form, and had seats around it that 
 would accommodate ten thousand spectators or more. In the in- 
 terior was rather an open space, occupied by managers, &c. 
 
 The whole concern was covered with canvass and appeared
 
 SKETC-HES OF THE COVNTRY. 199 
 
 tolerably well decorated. At one end were the dressing rooms, 
 stables for the horses, elephants and other animal?. This com- 
 pany was from Paris, as any one acquainted with the French 
 character would easily discover. 
 
 Elephants harnessed and many feats performed; but the most 
 strange part I witnessed was the chariot races and the feats of 
 female horsemanship.. 
 
 This is a Greek amusement. revived by the French, and pa- 
 tronized by the Americans. 
 
 The population of the city is compounded of parts of all na^ 
 tions, kindreds and tongues, and present an instructive example 
 of the free and happy institutions of the country. Each citizen 
 is protected in his rights, and the whole, with few exceptions, 
 move on in harmony, peace and good will. Wise and efficient 
 laws are enacted by the people, and respected and obeyed by 
 them, which gives general peace and quiet to this immense col- 
 lection of human beings. 
 
 The tone and character of the citizens are elevated, honorable 
 and intelligent; and the urbanity of manners, and the social re- 
 lations of a polite and polished community, are enjoyed here in 
 an eminent degree. It is the grand metropolis of the Republic 
 of the U. S., and sustains the character at home and abroad, that 
 is becoming the age, and the great and grand destiny of the 
 United States. 
 
 After the steam ferry boat leaves the wharf in New York, it 
 crosses the Hudson river and lands the passengers in New Jer- 
 sey, one of the ancient and respectable thirteen States; whose 
 patriotism and treasure aided much in the "time that tried men's 
 souls." The appearance of the surface of the country in this 
 State justifies the belief that the Ocean once covered the whole 
 southern section of the State. The rocky cliffs north of the rail 
 road, bears the appearance of being once the washed shores of a
 
 200 '''*. NEW YORK, ANp OTHER ATLANTIC CITIES. 
 
 great body of water. The towns of Princeton, Trenton, Mill- 
 stone, Red Bank, and Monmouth speak loud in historic page,the 
 triumphs and victories of the American arms over the enemy in 
 the Revolution. 
 
 Population of the State in 1850, was 489,555 improved land 
 1,767,991 acres; and unimproved 984,935 acres. Number of 
 square miles in the State, 8,320 value of all land $120,237,511 
 of farming implements and machinery, $4,425,503. Whole 
 amount of industrial institutions, producing annually more than 
 $500, were 4,373. Number of schools, 1,515; children attending 
 them was 75,245. In every section of the State there are gram- 
 mar schools, Academies, &c ; and $152,578 62, are appropria- 
 ted for school purposes. 
 
 The Colleges in New Jersey have been conducted by the most 
 profound and accomplished scholars in the nation, and the grad- 
 uates, many of them, have done honor to their country. Many 
 of the greatest men that appeared in the zenith of fame, wera 
 educated in this State. Whole number of newspapers published 
 in the State were 61. 
 
 There were 807 churches, accommodating 384,933 persons, 
 and value of church property, $3,450,436. The population of 
 the State has been increasing generally fifteen per cent., annually; 
 and long may it continue to increase that amount and more. 
 
 The city of Philadelphia is beautifully siuated on an eminence 
 between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, and is laid off in 
 regular streets, two miles long and one broad. The highest ele- 
 vation of the city is 64 feet above the Delaware river, and the 
 streets are wide and beautiful. There is a great regularity in the 
 architecture of this city, the houses generall being three stories 
 high, composed of brick, the steps of marble and the streets kept 
 clean winter and si mmer. It is the capital of the county of the 
 same name, and is in latitude 39 53 ' North.
 
 SKETCHES OT THE COUNTRY. 201 
 
 In this city of brotherly love,thereare mary splendid aud mag- 
 nificent public buildings. 
 
 Independence Hall, the most memorable edifice on earth, stands 
 a proud monumentjof the past and present. It was in this building 
 where the great charter of human liberty, the Declaration of In- 
 dependence was first proclaimed to the world. On the 4th July, 
 1776, this memorable charter was signed and issued to the public. 
 Much to the honor of this city, this venerable Hall has been 
 preserved in the same style and manner it was in, on that impor- 
 tant occasion. Even the chamber itself, where the Declaration 
 was signed, is preserved with the same furniture and decorations 
 as it possessed at the time. Many cities claim the honor of being 
 the birth place of the celebrated Poet, Homer, but this city wilj 
 stand unrivalled in the great glory of being the birth place of a 
 mighty Nation. 
 
 The Government Custom House, which once contained the old 
 United Sates B&nk, is among the most beautiful models of archi- 
 tecture in the world. It is made, as the Custom House is in N. 
 Y., in imitation of the Partheon at Athens, in the beautiful and 
 elegant Doric style. It is 87 feet front, and 161 feet deep, and 
 cost half a million of dollars. 
 
 The U. S. Mint is a finished building, in the Ionic style, and 
 in imitation of a Grecian Temple. 
 
 Many elegant and magnificent banking houses are erected in 
 this city. The Bank of Pennsylvania presents an imitation of 
 the Temple of ihe Muses at Athens. 
 
 The Gerard College is one of the greatest educational institu- 
 tions in Christendom. It was founded by the celebrated Stephen 
 Gerard; and his bequest to it was two million dollars. The 
 grounds contain about 41 acres, fenced with a wall 10 feet high, 
 and in it is this grand edifice, erected out of beautiful marble, in 
 the form of a Greek Temple. The grandeur of design, and the
 
 202 FEW YORK, AND OTHER ATLAJiTlC CITIES. 
 
 perfect execution of the work, place this Temple of education on 
 the highest eminence of architectural beauty, and it will remain 
 to the latest posterity, a monument to the honor and glory of its 
 founder. The statue of Stephen Gerard, in marble, is placed 
 over his remains, which are deposited in the lower vestibule of 
 this building. 
 
 The whole population of all the small cities, adjuncts and 
 towns, in the vicinity of Philadelphia, together with itself, in 
 1850, amounted to 409,045 souls: but the city proper, contains 
 only 121,317 inhabitants. 
 
 Both its commerce and manufactures makes a grand figure 
 before the world, and are fast increasing. In foreign commerce 
 this city stands high in the Union, and the imports of foreign 
 trade, in 1851, were $12,795,440. The domestic trade is great: 
 in 1851 26,484 vessels entered the port. The coal trade on 
 the SkuylkillT* is now immense and increasing for several years 
 past. 
 
 Wheat in 1850, were 1,103,206 bushels; and 653,828 bl flour 
 were imported into the city. These statistics will give a general 
 outline of the commerce of this city, and manufactures keep 
 equal pace with all its other interests. 
 
 The amount, the great j^alue and variety of the factories, pla- 
 ces it hign in the list of the greatest manufacturing cities in the 
 Union. The amount of capital invested in manufactures, is 
 $33,837,911; amount of raw material used $34,505,156; the a- 
 mount of products $64,114,212. All the hands employed are 
 59,099, whose wages are $1,271,393, The principle manufac- 
 tures are those of machinery, hardware, cutlery, precious metals, 
 cordage, furniture, musical instruments, ornamental and other 
 iron furniture, &c., &c. 
 
 No city is better supplied with clean nice markets, and elegant 
 provisions. In 1850, 70,820 beeves were sold in these markets,
 
 . 
 
 ___ _^_ . JL. .JI 
 
 SKETCHFS OE THE COUNTRY. 203 
 
 15,265 calves, 23 340 sheep, and 95,450 swine. 
 
 The churches of this city number about 175, and are generally 
 plain neat edifices, more calculated for comfort than show. The 
 churches of St. Andrew and St. Peter are elegant classic build- 
 ings, one of the Gothic and the other of the Ionic orders of arch- 
 itecture. 
 
 The new Roman Catholic Cathedral, will surpass all others in 
 the city for dimensions and elegant finish. The American Sun- 
 day School Association occupies an edifice of extraordinary mag- 
 nitude, on Chestnut street, and is five stories high, containing the 
 depository of books, tracts, publication office, &c., &c. 
 
 Newspapers in this city in 1850, were 64 establishments 11 
 dailies, and theballance at longer periods, 
 
 The American Philosophic Society, organized here by Dr. 
 Franklin, in 1743, is the oldest scientific association in the Uni- 
 ted States. The united libraries contain now about 60,000 vol- 
 umes. 
 
 Education in this great city is based on the wisdom and sound 
 judgment, descended from the illustrious Dr. Franklin, Penn, 
 Rush, and other of the fathers of the city, and presents a system 
 of free schools that should be known and practiced throughout 
 the world. 
 
 The city and county are formed into one school district, of 11 
 sections, all pertaining to the harmonious and efficient mode of 
 free instruction. In 1852, there were 254 schools in the city, 
 under the direction of 23 controllers and 210 directors. Fifty 
 thousand children attend the schools, and are under 727 teach- 
 ers. The school houses are generally brick, 3 stories high, and 
 will contain from 500 to 1,000 children each one. 
 
 The above statistics proclaim the enlightened policy and wis- 
 dom of the present population, as the worthy descendants of the 
 great philosopher who founded this city, and gave it that noble
 
 204 *iw YORK, AND OTHER ATLANTIC CITIES 
 
 standing that is at this day, so much respected. 
 
 The intelligence of the citizens,is proverbial throughout Chris- 
 tendom; and no community ever enjoyed a more noble ancestry 
 than this city does. 
 
 Penn, the founder of the State and city, was one of Nature's 
 great prodigies. For the love of the human family, he aban- 
 doned the princely court of his native kingdom, and laid down in 
 the wilderness,a system of Government founded on the principles 
 of equal rights. He was a father not only to the white man, bu l 
 also the red man was pressed to his warm bosom of philanthropy. 
 Even the old elm tree was venerated for ages, where he made a 
 treaty on such just principles with the natives. 
 
 Dr. Franklin, whose remains rest in peace in this city, was 
 also a citizen of the city, whose memory will live on earth, so 
 long as man has the intelligence to appreciate science and phil- 
 osophy. 
 
 Such extraordinary intellect and talents as he possessed, rise 
 on the earth at long intervals, and perhaps, but one such in their 
 order ever will appear to illuminate and improve the human 
 family. 
 
 There is a disposition in the public to underrate "men and 
 things" within their own time and observation. Such is the 
 case, when these great men are compared with the ancients. 
 Preference is generally given to those of the former ages, while 
 contemporaries of great men do not always apprecite them. 
 Socrates, Plato, Pythagorus, and none of the ancient sages sur- 
 passed in profound and practical philosophy, the American 
 Franklin; and in my opinion, Henry Clay excelled either De- 
 mosthenes or Cicero, in pure and thrilling eloquence. I think 
 Clay was not the profound scholar and philosopher that Cicero 
 was; but in the pure and Heavenly pathos, that penetrates the 
 inmost recesses of the human heart, when touched by a master
 
 ... ^-;&M ' -- 
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 205 
 
 hand the American orator rivalled any of the ancient,. Dr 
 ah was another dignitary of this city, whose teachings in med-' 
 
 .erne and general science, are now enjoyed by the cuizens to ad- 
 
 vance their glory and prosperity. 
 
 Another of nature's rare gifts to man, was David Rittenhouse 
 
 born mthevicimty of this city, of Dutch parentage, and wasTne 
 
 of the greatest philosophers and astronomers o any a* or 
 
 country. He resided in this ci ;y f or many years, and his char 
 
 acter reached the acme of fame. 
 
 .s 
 
 r^L^',rs;E 
 
 houses are mostly composed of brick 
 
 Total value of land; $18,880,021 
 
 " rs 
 
 nd 0,, , 
 
 :
 
 206 NEW YORK, AND OTHKR ATLANTIC CITIES. 
 
 expenses were less than the income by $5,147 62. The resour- 
 ces of the State, Banks, &c., were sufficient to support the State 
 Government without recourse to direct taxation, Glorious little 
 Delaware! In 1859 there were 11 presses in the State. In this 
 State there are six Banks and three branches. Capital $1,293,- 
 185, and circulation $833,960 of all the Banks. 
 
 In 1610 Lord Delaware, Governor of Virginia, entered Dela- 
 ware bay and gave his name to it and the river. The Swedes 
 sent out in 1637, a colony under Peter Minuits, who the next 
 year made a settlement on the present Brandy wine creek. The 
 Dutch from New Amsterdam, the present New York, reduced 
 them to their own government, and afterwards Penn purchased 
 the three lower counties on the Delaware, which gave the foun- 
 dation to the name and State of Delaware as it now stands. 
 
 The cars soon pass over the State of Delaware, and enter 
 Maryland. 
 
 The Island of Kent contained the first settlement in Mary- 
 land, which was made by William Clai bourne in 1631: but the 
 charter of the Government was dated 20th June of the next 
 year, granted by Charles I, to Cecilius. Lord Calvert, second 
 Lord Baltimore. The name Terra Mariae, or Maryland, was 
 given to the country in honor to the Queen. The first settlers 
 with religious ceremony took possession of the country 25th 
 March 1634, and made their habitations on St. Clement Island, 
 The pilgrims were mostly Roman Catholics from the Isle of 
 Wight, and were forced away by religious tayranny, a curse of- 
 ten visited upon men. 
 
 The population of Maryland in 1850, was 583,034, and it 
 contains 9,674 square miles; the rest of the territory is covered 
 by the waters of the Chesapeake. Improved lands, 2,797,905 
 acres, and unimproved 1,836,445 acres. Wheat in 1850 were 
 4,494,480 bushels, and corn, 10,748,859 bushels. Capital m*
 
 t\rv 
 SKETCHES OF THE COVNTRT. / 207 
 
 vested in manufactures, $14,753,143 value of raw material, 
 fuel, &c., $17,326,734. Hands employed, 30,124. Annual 
 products, $32;476,702. The manufactures in this State have 
 doubled in ten years. 
 
 Schools, 923; teachers, 1,104; and scholars, 35,467. Income 
 of schools $206,430. Academies, 174; teachers, 427; and 
 scholars 7,759. Public libraries, 17; containing 54.750, and 
 private 325, containing 222,455 volumes. Whole number of 
 presses were 68 in 1850. Churches, 909; and own property to 
 the value of $3,947,884, 
 
 Baltimore is beautifully situated on a branch of the Chesa- 
 peake bay, and is laid out four miles square. In many parts of 
 this city, most delightful prospects of the bay, the country and 
 city are enjoyed. It is the capital ol the county of the same 
 name, State of Maryland, and is in latitude 39 17' North. 
 The city is divided by a small stream, and enjoys an extensive 
 harbor. Large vessels reach the city and ride securely in the 
 bay. This is, except New Orleans, the largest commercial city 
 in the South, and has increased rapidly within a few years. 
 
 The population of this city in 18 V 50 169,054. Wealth of the 
 city was $80,237,960. Revenue $617,994, of which $381,609 
 were raised by a city tax. 
 
 In foreign commerce this city is only in the rear of New York, 
 Boston and New Orleans. In 1850, 488 foreign vessels enter, 
 ed the harbor, containing 98,588 ton. 
 
 The manufactures of the city are also extensive and varied. 
 In 1850 there were 2,243 factories, and capital invested in them 
 $6,541922. Males employed 15,442, and females, 5,044 and 
 annual products $20,416,511. The public press of this city is 
 six daily, and twenty-six of longer intervals. It is conceded that 
 the press of Baltimore is very efficient and talented. In the late 
 war with Great Britain, the people of tnis city were quite sen-
 
 X(S HIV? YOBK, AM) OTHEIi ATLANTIC 
 
 sitive in relation to a Federal press, and demolished it without the 
 slow process of the law. 
 
 There are ten banks in this city, with a capital of $7,101,051, 
 and circulation of $2,073,578. Also many insurance offices and 
 savings banks exist here. 
 
 The great blessing of pure water is abundantly supplied this 
 city, by fountains and Jones' Falls. 
 
 The fountains are decorated in the most gorgeous manner with 
 such tasty embellishments and fanciful drawings, that the Naides 
 themselves might be pleased with the liquid scene and make it 
 their Baltimore station. 
 
 In the late war with Great Britain, this city repelled an attack 
 that has shed on it immortal honor. In the year 1813, Ad- 
 miral Cockburn, commanding an English fleet, committed outra- 
 ges upon defenseless towns, around the shores of Maryland, that 
 disgraced his name and put him" upon a level with a beast of 
 prey. And afterwards Gen. Ross, committed disgraceful insults 
 on science and the fine arts in Washington City, the same army 
 thirsting for blood arrived in the city Baltimore. 
 
 Ross, the beast of prey, who had destroyed the records and li- 
 brary in Washington City, boasted that "if it rained militia-men 
 he would take Baltimore." 
 
 The city was prepared for the assault. Fifteen thousand men 
 were in readiness to resist these British vandals. 
 
 On the llth Sept., 1814, an English fleet of fifty sails, with 
 6,000 regular troops had entered the mouth of the Patapsco, and 
 commenced landing the soldiers on the 12th at North Point, four- 
 teen miles below the city. Gen. Stiiker was ordered with 3,500 
 troops to oppose them. Gen. Ross being in.advancc of the main 
 army, was killed in a skirmish, and the command devolved upon 
 Gen. Brook, After a hard battle for an hour and a half, against 
 superior numbers, the Americans retired one-half mile to Wor- 
 '
 
 SKETCUFS OE THE COUNTRY. 2lf9 
 
 thington Mills. On the night of the 12th the British army biv- 
 ouacked in advance of the battle ground, and on the 13th com- 
 menced their march towards the city. Within two miles of the 
 American army, they halted to wait the .attack on Fort McHenry. 
 This fortress is erected at the narrow pass into the Baltimore har- 
 bor, from the Patapsco, two miles from the city. On the 13th 
 sixteen ships of the line, assailed the Fort, Twelve hundred 
 men were ordered in the night to storm Fort McHenry, and the 
 battle raged with dreadful conflicts all night until morning', when 
 the enemy were repulsed. 'The whole armament sailed down 
 the bay, badly whipped, never again to return. 
 
 It is said that F. Key, Esq., who was a prisoner on board of 
 the British fleet, on the night of the bombardment of Fort Mc- 
 Henry, composed the American song called "The Star Spangled 
 Banner," which is the best National song extant. 
 
 The hand of Providence destroyed Ross, the vandal pirate on 
 science and the fine arts in Washington, and the whole army of 
 blopd-thirsty robbers were driven off to meet their destruction at. 
 New Orlealis. And the far famed city of Baltimore was saved 
 from the hands of an enemy, whose boasted motto a few months 
 afterwards at N. O., was "Booty and Beauty," 
 
 In honor of the slain in the defense of the city, Baltimore has 
 raised monuments, that will forever immortalize her, and her 
 brave defenders. 
 
 This famous city, whose councils are guided by the genial and 
 chivalric feelings of the Sunny South, has also reared a monu- 
 ment in honor of the greatest of the great the immortal Wash- 
 ington which stands, as it is, a proud monument of the patriot- 
 ism and liberal spirit of Baltimore. This monument occupies a 
 commanding eminence, and is the true expositor of the hearts of 
 the citizens, towards the commander of the American armies. 
 
 Baltimore stands unrivalled in her naval architecture. The 
 36
 
 210 KIW YORK, AMD OTB ER ATLAKTIC CITIEI. 
 
 
 
 vessels of the Baltimore fashion are models innaval science; and 
 are famed throughout the world. The clippers of this city in 
 the late war, danced before the British fleets, like meteors, un- 
 touched by all the nautical skill of Old England. 
 
 The learned professions of this city stand high in the calen- 
 der of fame. The science of jurisprudence has, and does occu- 
 py the high standing, that profound legal learning and general 
 literature can bestow upon it. 
 
 The late William Pmckney, of this city, was an ornament to 
 his profession, and also a statesman of enlarged and comprehen- 
 sive views. And the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of the 
 United States, the Hon. Mr. Tawney, resides in this city, and 
 adds lustre to the profession. 
 
 Baltimore was laid out in 1729, and in 1765 it contained on- 
 ly 50 houses. It was chartered in 1797, and its increase and 
 importance have been constant and permanent to the present 
 time. Its destiny is onwards and upwards to greatness. 
 
 The population of this city are proverbial for their urbanity of 
 manners and social accomplishments. The inhabitants partake 
 largely of the general feelings of sociability and liberality that 
 prevail s outh of Mason & Dixon's line,and compose a refined and 
 polished society. The cars move towards sun-down, and leave 
 behind us the thirteen brave old States. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 CUMBERLAND AND WHEELING. 
 
 Seven miles from Baltimore, the railroad reaches the Elk 
 Ridge Landing, on the Patapsco river, where the Baltimore and
 
 SKETCHES OP TH* COUHTJIT, 211 
 
 Ohio railroad leaves the road to Washington City, and persues 
 the Valley of the Patapsco river. This village at the Elk Ridge 
 Landing, is situated at the head of tide water, and countains 
 about 800 inhabitants. The viaduct of the raikoad to Washing- 
 ton, over the Patapsco river, is a most splendid specimen of arch- 
 ture, made of granite rock. 704 feet long,- and 58 above the sur- 
 face of the river, resting on eight beautiful arches. 
 
 Silicon's Mills, 12 miles from Baltimore on the Patapsco river, 
 and the railroad, are known throughout the Union. They are 
 of long standing and great celebrity. 
 
 In 1850 the population of the town of Ellicott's Mills was 1 069. 
 A press is established here, and on the route grand and sublime 
 scenery is enjoyed by those whose taste and talents incline them 
 to appreciate it. 
 
 The railroad passes over the high land at the sources of Pa- 
 tapsco,and enters the Valley of the Potomac. Beautiful scenery 
 is also presented in the Potomac Valley, and at Harper's Ferry, 
 the exhibition of nature is grand and sublime. The eloquent 
 description of this section of country by both Jefferson and Vol- 
 ney, has immortalised it. 
 
 A National Armory is established at this point, where there is 
 a population of 1,747, in 1850, mostly composed of workmen in 
 and for the armory. In the above year 9,600 percussion mus- 
 kets were manufactured here by the United States, and 10,836 
 muskets changed from the flint to the percussion system. 
 
 The General Government have established the armory busi- 
 ness on a grand and efficient scale at this place. The water 
 power here is incalculable. The Potomac river is here bridged 
 for the railroad, nearly 800 feet long, and the road here forks, 
 one goes to Winchester am* the other to Wheeling. 
 
 On the north side of the Potomac river, passes the Ohio and 
 Chesapeak canal.
 
 CDMBEKDAND 'AND WHEELING. 
 
 In olden times, the emigrants often narrated the many scones 
 of terror and blood-shed they encountered in journeying West. 
 I have often heard with interest, the story of one poor family, 
 who passed this site in the year 1788. This family first emigra- 
 ted from Ireland to Pennsylvania, and from Montgomery county 
 in that State, they wended their way West. I have often exam- 
 ined perhaps, the precise spot of earth, they travelled over, as I 
 felt an interest in the very soil they trod upon. All their wealth 
 was one horse and some clothes. The mother and her only child, 
 six months old, rode the horse, while the father walked. This 
 infant was myself, in the arms of my mother, traveling West by 
 Harper's Ferry in 1788, to East Tennessee. What a change in 
 the country and travel since that day! 
 
 The railroad generally persues the Valley of the Potomac, 
 until it reaches the base of the Alleghany Mountains. 
 
 Cumberland is situated on the Potomac river, at the mouth of 
 Will's Creek, and is the capital of Alleghany county, Maryland. 
 Within a few years this place has wonderfully increased. At 
 the last census, in 1S50, the population was 6.067, and in 1840, 
 it contained only 2,428, increasing in ten year, 149 per cent. 
 The inexhaustable quantities of stone coal found in the vicini- 
 ty, has given this town such extraordinary rise. Also the 
 Ohio andChesapeak canal terminates at this point, and the great 
 rail road connecting the East and West together, pass this 
 place. 
 
 The delivery of coal in Baltimore from these mines, were in 
 1851, 163,855 ton, and has been rapidly increasing for many 
 years past. 
 
 In this city are erected many splendid public buildings, which 
 give character and standing to the place. A fine Court House 
 and Jail make their appearance, and also a Market House. In 
 this city are established three newspapers, that_ issue weekly
 
 THE COUNTRY. 213 
 
 sheets. There are here two banks, and a company orgarized 
 for mining purpposes, with a capital of five million dollars. 
 
 The scenery around this city is splendid and magnificent. It 
 is situated at the base of the great Alleghany Mountains, and 
 around it are seen mountains extending, as far as the eye can 
 reach. At this point, Will's Creek has cut itself a channel thro' 
 a high mountain, probably a thousand feet deep, and the sides 
 of the gorge are almost perpendicular rocks. It must have re- 
 quired millions of years for this stream to wear itself a channel 
 through this mountain. 
 
 Gen. Braddock, in 1755, made this site his general encamp- 
 ment, and called it Cumberland. Braddock and his army, about 
 two thousand strong, remained here some time before they cros- 
 sed the mountains. 
 
 Near this city the railroad ascends the great Alleghany moun- 
 tains. This improvement displays in an eminent degree the 
 great talents and energies of the American \ eople. Maryland 
 and the city of Baltimore in particular, deserve great honor for 
 their extraordinary efforts to improve the country. 
 
 I believe there is no city in the Union, that has done more by 
 commercial improvements to advance its interests, than Balti- 
 more has done. What wonders an enlightened and liberal poli- 
 cy will accomplish over a stupid, stand-still system! 
 
 The railroad is well constructed over the mountains to Wheel- 
 ing, a distance of 146 miles, and has solved the problem, that it 
 is practicable to construct a railroad over these stupendous moun- 
 tains. 
 
 These great mountains of North America extern! North East 
 and South West, many thousand miles from Alabama to Nova 
 Scotia, and are from 600 to 2,500 feet high. They lange from 
 60 to 200 mile* wide, and are mostly composed of sand stone. 
 A large sectipn of these mountains, between the city of New
 
 214 CUMBERLAND A*D 
 
 York and the Lakes, is depressed to an inconsiderable elevation. 
 In many parts of these mountains, are discovered marine shells 
 that afford undeniable evidence that the waters of the Atlantic 
 once swept over them. The plains on each side of them, speak 
 a watery language upon the subject of their origin that cannot 
 be misunderstood. 
 
 The railroad reaches the Ohio river, twelve miles below 
 Wheeling, but ascends or the river bank to this important city. 
 
 In the year 1769, the families of the Zanes, Ogles, and oth- 
 ers, settled on the present site of the present city of Wheeling'* 
 most of them having emigrated from the south branch of the Po- 
 tomac, in Virginia. 
 
 In 1774, under the order of Gov. Dunmore, Fort Fincastle 
 was erected here, to defend the frontiers from the attacks of the 
 Indians. It is said George Rogers Clark, who was with Gov. 
 Dunmore in his campaign to the Sciota, made the plan of the 
 Fort. 
 
 After Independence was proclaimed, the name of the Fort 
 was changed to that of Henry, in honor of the brave and patri- 
 otic Governor of Virginia. Fort Henry stood on the bank of the 
 river, a quarter of a mile above the mouth of Wheeling Creek, 
 aud in 1777 about thirty log cabins were erected between it and 
 the river bluff. 
 
 Dunmore, in 1774 left some soldiers in the Fort, who remain- 
 ed there until the British power ceased to exist on the Ohio river. 
 
 On the 27th Sept., 1777, this Fort was attacked by more than 
 four hundred picked Indian warriors, headed by the celebrated 
 Simon Girty, and out of forty-two men who were attached to the 
 garrison, twenty-five were killed in skirmishes outside the walls 
 of the stockade. The Indians in all, must have lost at least one 
 hundred warriors. The garrison was commanded by Col. Shep- 
 herd, and the attack continued on it with savage ferocity, for more
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTHY. 216 
 
 than twenty-four hours. Relief came from the adjoining settle- 
 ments, and the savage warriors were forced to raise the siege. 
 In this attack are recorded many feats of noble daring and he- 
 roic courage in the defense of the Fort, that would do honor to 
 Roman valor in its palmiest days. 
 
 Capt. Mason was sent out early in the morning of the 
 27th Sept., while a dense fog hung over the scene, before the 
 attack was made by the Indians , to reconnoiter; and out of his 
 14 men, twelve were killed. 
 
 Capt. Joseph Ogle heard the terrible slaughter of his com- 
 rades, and the horrible yells of the savage warriors, over the 
 wailing and dying groans of his countrymen, which roused him 
 to the rescue. He marched out with 12 men, and nine were 
 killed. His brother Jacob was among the slain. These two 
 small bands were sourrounded by four hundred warriors, and 
 were nearly all destroyed, on the same site, where at this time 
 stands the city of Wheeling. A monument should be erected 
 there in honor of the slain. 
 
 Towards the middle of the day of the assault, the powder in 
 the garrison was nearly exhausted, and a supply had been left in 
 a cabin some sixty yards from the Fort. It appeared certain 
 death for any one to go out of the Fort before such a host of 
 warriors; and without powder, the destruction of the Fort was 
 inevitable. A young girl volunteered to risk her life to save the 
 Fort, and did perform the extraordinary feat, in the presence of 
 the whole Indian array of 400 warriors. The wonderful cour- 
 age of a young squaw, as the Indians called her, reached the 
 chivalry of the Indian army, and not a single gun was fired at 
 her, although they knew if the garrison did not obtain the pow- 
 der, it would be easily captured. The next day the pioneers 
 from the surrounding settlements came in and saved the gar-* 
 rison;
 
 216 CUMBERLAND AND WHEELING. 
 
 In 1785, Capt. Ogle emigrated to Illinois, where he lived and 
 acted out the life of a noble and patriotic pioneer. He was the 
 patriarch of a numerous and respectable posterity, and died at an 
 advanced age in the year 1827, near Belleville, Illinois. His 
 life was honored, and his death regretted by the whole commu- 
 nity around him. His pioneer life "in the eminent deadly 
 breach," was not much inferior to that of the celebrated 
 Daniel Boon, and is deserving of a conspicuous place jn the an- 
 nals of the West. 
 
 Wheeling is fortunately situated for commerce. It is located 
 on the Ohio river, and both the great National turnpike, and the 
 railroad from the East to the West, pass this city. The health 
 is good, and it is located in the midst of a fine agricultural coun- 
 try. But more particularly it enjoys the advantages of great 
 mineral resources. Iron and coal are found in the greatest quan- 
 tities, nearly, or quite, within the corporation limits of the city. 
 It is a port of entry, and capital of Ohio county,in latitude 40 
 07' North. 
 
 It hfc.s experienced the greatest prosperity within a few years 
 past, and bids fair to become a large city. It extends on the 
 high bank of the river, about two miles, and the Wheeling creek 
 separates it in two equal parts. Over this creek is erected a fine 
 stone bridge, that connects the city together. 
 
 A wire bridge was constructed across the Ohio river from 
 Zane's Island on the National road to this city, which is said to 
 be the greatest work of that class on earth. I saw it before it 
 fell, it was grand and magnificent. It displayed the great ge- 
 nius and talents of man in architecture, more than any other im- 
 provement I ever saw. But all this wonderful and stupendous 
 work, showing the perfection of human intellect, was forced to 
 yield to the power of the elements, and this proud monument of 
 American architecture was prostrated by a storm this spring, to
 
 E r as OOD! ,T,r. ,, 
 
 he bottom of the Ohio river. I, ,. , nin , 
 
 above low w ater; tolver on ^*L* S '' M fe long, 97 f eet 
 
 west side, 160 feet It S 6> 153 ** feet W-h- 
 
 -Wch was 4 ini ^'22K' CaWeS ' 6ach 
 300 feet long The w com Posed of 550 strands, and 1 . 
 
 *cjard S k L irsoT tr;: d b in ?^ ^ ; - 
 
 Many of the public edifices fatfci rebuilt - 
 
 models of architLure. ThTcourf h ^ "", '^ and ta ^ 
 Jed building. But u is thesZdM fd J " ^ "^ fin ' 
 'hmeen in number) tha, attract a te ^fi-em churches 
 cy, that devout and religious on T?' ' ff ' V6 to ' he whole 
 o the we ,l being of * ^t i s so essen- 
 
 The glass 
 
 lr on ware of stoves, castn nd 
 manufactured in abundance, Sjtf"? ei * ines 
 The , argest ^ V 6 *^ also do 
 
 iss^S^iS^ ""^ a ^? 
 
 La Belle Riviere. '' ff ' 0ry and Plenty, and descend 
 
 36
 
 218 trp'p'KB OHIO KIVHH curcisriTATTi; 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 UPPER OHIO RIVER CINCINNATI. 
 
 The history of this section of the Ohio river is replete with 
 horrible Indian murders and Indian wars, in the early settlement 
 of the country. It was a watery barrier between the two races, 
 the Indians and the whites, for almost a half a century, and was 
 also a great avenue of emigration to the West, 
 
 The Indian name of the river was Ohiopekhanne, meaning 
 an exceedingly white stream," or "white caps," as they are 
 called, when the waters of the river are raised by the wind into 
 broken waves. Tke first part of the name was retained and the 
 ballance laid aside. This is the derivation of the name given by 
 Heckewelder; but the French called it La Belle Riveire, "the 
 beautiful river," to suit their own notions of this beautiful and 
 magnificent stream. It is 959 miles long, persuing a South- 
 west direction, until it enters the Mississippi in lattitude 3 
 It is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela 
 rivers at Pittsburgh. The river at Pittsburgh is 680 feet above 
 tide water, and at its mouth, 300 feet. Its average descent is 
 not quite five inches per mile. It is stated that there are one 
 hundred Islands in the river, between Pittsburgh and the mouth, 
 besides many smaller elevations.
 
 KITCHIS Or THE 
 
 t ,..- gjg 
 
 containing <7,000 
 
 8,000,000 of 'souls ~"tte OW V iT" ' ime> am UDtS " 
 watered by the Ohio and tributaries 7s' embraci ^ the 
 tant portions of the earth, and is tend! T* *" m St " 
 nd exalted stand that exhibit both T ' ^ im ?-~ 
 
 :ure in the greatest perfection COUWry and hu n na- 
 
 possessnotiess 
 
 mile.. On the Cum be S 400 "T D * 
 400; on Green river 150; oTs^l' D the Wabash 
 on the Sciota 65: Big Sandy 50 On 7 f " the KeDtuck y 62; 
 > 60; on the Monongahell 60- , ^ aWWha 65 Muski ?- 
 
 Very few obstruction^ " ^viZ " ^ ^'^ 200 ' 
 Louisville in two miles th ? r 7 6X ' St " the Ohio - At 
 only rapids in the river' *"' * 1 ' 2 feet ' "^ is the 
 
 per hour, and ,' ^^ is abou ' 
 
 not navigable for ordinary , J' " does not e d two. It is 
 
 hundred miles. This b r<)ers ^ *ores some 
 
 . s 
 
 Patriotism and liberality th d*" ' ermed> in honor lo h 
 f f great and grow J Bjjg f ^ - territory 
 y Virginia to the Union atd ' f r' n " h - west ' was Canted 
 f ^. Virginia te^ ^/'J"* *> Ste '- -re 
 
 t
 
 :~t/ UPPER OHIO HIVfc CINCINNATI. 
 
 in the State, $216,401,441. All the manufactures whose annu- 
 al products amounted to more than $5,00, were 4,133, and total 
 capital invested in them in 1840 was $11,360,861, All the 
 shipping owned in 1850, was 74,071 ton. 
 
 Six Banks and 31 branches were doing business* in this State, 
 having a capital of $9,814,545, and a circulation of $10,256,967. 
 Many great works of improvement are constructed in the old 
 Dominion. Canals and railroads exist in many parts of the 
 State. 
 
 The name of Virginia was once given to all the Atlantic coast 
 by Sir Walter Raliegh, in honor of the virgin Queen Elizabeth. 
 In 1607, the first settlement in the old thirteen States was made 
 in this State, at Jamestown, on James river. The first Legisla- 
 ture held in America, was in 1619, in Virginia; and about this 
 time 1,200 emigrants arrived from England. 
 
 This State has become famous throughout the world, for giv- 
 ing birth to many of the most distinguished men that ever ex- 
 isted in any age or in any country. It has produced more sages 
 and philosophers, who have performed greater and more essen- 
 tial services to the human family in establishing the principles of 
 free government, than any other country ever did. 
 
 Washington and Jefferson were the brightest ornaments of hu- 
 man nature, and have impressed on the human family all over 
 t he earth, more sound ard practical principles of free government 
 than ever was known before. 
 
 Washington was, under Providence, the great beacon-light to 
 the armies of the Revolution, which has performed more service 
 to the human family than all die other revolutions that ever exis- 
 ted. And Jefferson, with his extraordinary comprehensive mind, 
 imbued profoundly with philosophy and the principles of free 
 government, impressed strongly' on the age the principles of re- 
 publicanism. No man erer existed, ancient or modern, who did
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 221 
 
 the human family more service than Thomas Jefferson, 
 
 Columbus discovered the New World. The great German 
 invented printing. Fulton applied steam power to machinery, 
 and thousands of others did great services to mankind; but what 
 are all these discoveries and inventions, to human liberty? Who 
 is willing to change his liberty for all other blessings? 
 
 Jefferson established more than any other man, the great fun- 
 damental principles of free government, and his name will be 
 revered to the latest posterity by all free men, and cursed by all 
 tyrants. 
 
 In the revolution, this State was blessed with an extraordinary 
 host of great men, who performed incalculable services for the 
 Republic, "in the days that tried men's souls." Patrick Henry, 
 Madison, the Randolphs, Monroe, the Lees, Harrison, Generals 
 Morgan and Scott, Mason, and many others, show out in the 
 Revolution with such lustre, that added honor to the State, and 
 to human nature. 
 
 These great statesmen and philosophers, together with the de- 
 cided course of the State in the Revolution, have confered a char- 
 acter and standing upon the old Dominion, that cannot be sur- 
 passed. 
 
 The worthy descendants of the above illustrious ancestry, have 
 made proper arrangements for education in this State. In 126 
 counties there existed 3,904 schools, and 72,876 children atten- 
 ded them in 1850. Many other schools exist in the State. Wil- 
 liam and Mary College is the oldest institution of learning in the 
 Union, except Harvard University. Jefferson was a graduate of 
 this college. Thirty libraries, and 89,180 volumes were in the 
 State in 1850. 
 
 Almost every mile descending the Ohio river, reminds us of 
 some "hair breadth escape," or hard fought battle with the Indi- 
 ans, in the first settlement of the country. As early as 1774, 
 
 38
 
 222 UPPER OHIO RIVER CINCINNATI. 
 
 Governor Dunmore of Virginia, led an army of 12 or 1500 men 
 across the Ohio from old Virginia, to the Sciota river. In this 
 campaign were many of the individuals who afterwards became 
 the most distinguished in the first settlement of the country. 
 George Rogers Clark, Simon Kenton, and others were with 
 Dunmore in this campaign. 
 
 Less than a hundred miles below "Wheeling, on the Ohio riv- 
 er, is located Marietta. This is the first permanent settlement 
 made in Ohio. A Fort was made here in 1785, on the west 
 side of the Muskingum river, and called Fort Harmar. In 1788 
 Rufus Putnam, the Revolutionary General, with forty-two New 
 Englanders, established a colony here. 
 
 In Sept. 1788, the first court of Justice was organized in Ma- 
 rietta, with grand and imposing ceremony. It was opened with 
 prayer by the Rev. Mr. Cutler, and the whole peagentry seems 
 at this day, to be rather transcendental. 
 
 Descending the river, we arrive at Point Pleasant, where the 
 great Kanawha enters the Ohio, and where was fought one of 
 the most celebrated battles that ever "came off" in the United 
 States. 
 
 The Americans were a division of the army of Gov. Dunmore 
 and was 1 ,000 or 1 ,200 strong, of the bravest and best men the 
 frontiers of Virginia ever produced. The commander was Gen. 
 Lewis. Many of the most distinguished men in after life in 
 America, were in this battle, and whose energy and talents were 
 eminently displayed on this occasion. Gen. Lewis had two sons 
 in the battle, also were two Shelbys, one of these afterwards was 
 Governor of Kentucky in after days, and many others distin-. 
 guished in after life, acted in this famous battle. 
 
 On the other side were the best and most select Indian *varri^ 
 ors of the West, commanded by a Shawnee chief, Cornstalk. 
 They were certain of success, and fought with great desperation^
 
 SKETCHES X OP THJE COUHTBT. 
 
 The battle commenced before sun rise on the 10th Oct., 1774, 
 and continued with furious charges almost the entire day. In 
 the high timber, the terrible yells of the savages, and the cheer- 
 ing of the Americans, together with the continuous roar of the ri- 
 fles, made the scene grand and sublime. 
 
 Gen. Lewis, in the afternoon ordered three companies to con- 
 ceal themseles under the bank of the Kanawha,and march in the 
 rear of the Indians. This had the desired effect: the Indians 
 were routed with a great loss. Their army were 1,500 or 2,000 
 strong. The Americans lost 75 killed and 140 wounded, being a 
 fourth of all engaged. This was a terrible loss to this small ar- 
 my, and many of the best men in the country were slain. 
 
 In the year 1777, by cowardly and base treachery, the noble 
 and high minded Shawnee chief, Cornstalk, was enticed to Point 
 Pleasant, and in direct violation of all the principles of honor 
 and religion, was brutally murdered by a savage mob of white 
 men. This great Shawnee chief was made the greatest of the 
 great by the hand of nature, and on his own soil was basely de- 
 coyed and inhumanly murdered by men professing Christianity. 
 
 The next year a large army of Indians beseiged Fort Ran- 
 dolph, which was erected after the battle at Point Pleasant, and 
 commanded by Col. McKee. The Indians were defeated; they 
 wanted revenge for the murder of Cornstalk their chief. 
 
 Point Pleasant is the capital of Mason county, Virginia. It 
 contains an Academy, several mills and other factories. In it 
 are also several stores, and 500 inhabitants. 
 
 Up the Kanawha river, 66 miles, are the greatest salt works 
 in the West. They extend on the river 15 miles, and the depth 
 to be bored for salt water is from 3 to 500 feet. Excellent stone 
 coal exist in the vincmity; so that the manufacture of salt is speedy 
 and cheap. Great quantities are manufactured here, which is 
 distributed throughout the West,
 
 224 UPPER OHIO RIVER CINGINNATTI. 
 
 Four miles below Point Pleasant, is beautifully located on a 
 high bank of the Ohio,Gallipolis,the county seat of Gallia county, 
 Ohio. A colony of French, mostly from Paris, beine displeased 
 with the French Revolution, emigrated to the United States in 
 1791, and located at this point. They made a purchase of the 
 Government and built up this "city of the Gauls" in the wilder- 
 ness. These emigrants suffered much hardships and privations 
 in the first settlement of the city. They were not accustomed to 
 the mode of life, they were compelled to observe in clearing the 
 ground, cutting the timber for their houses and other similar 
 works. 
 
 Most of them were raised in the gay and fashionable city of 
 Paris, and were mechanics, or gentlemen who worked none. 
 Sickness amongst other adverse circumstances, visited them and 
 took many off. M. Dufour was a main leader of the emigrants. 
 At this day they are Americanized, and are pleased that their 
 forefathers made the sacrifice, in leaving all the pleasures of re- 
 fined society, for a wilderness in 1791, on the banks of the 
 Ohio. 
 
 Gallapolis contains four churches, Court House, Jail, and 
 many factories. It also contains two newspapers, and a popula- 
 tion in 1850 of 2,226 souls. It is increasing, and will be a con- 
 siderable business place. 
 
 Portsmouth is beatifully situated on the Ohio river, and is the 
 county seat of Sciota county, Ohio. It contained in 1850, 4,011 
 inhabitants, and at this time, perhaps there are 5 or 6,000 souls 
 in it. 
 
 This city is fortunately situated for commerce. It is located 
 on the Ohio river, at the terminus of the great canal 309 miles 
 long, running to lake Erie, and the railroad extending north. 
 Portsmouth will be in a few years a great emporium. It con- 
 tains a fine court house, and many churches, together with sev-
 
 8KTCH8 OF THE COUNTRY. 225 
 
 eral newspapers, issuing their sheets daily, weekly, and at oth- 
 er periods. Also are banks, market houses, and academies, es- 
 tablished in it. 
 
 Descending the Ohio river from Portsmouth, the steamer soon 
 reaches the city of Maysville, which is beautifully situated on a 
 high bank of the Ohio river; in Mason county, Kentucky; and 
 contains a population of about 6000 inhabitants. 
 
 Simon Kenton, in the year 1774, explored this section of Ken- 
 tucky, and made a tomahawk improvement at this point, but 
 was forced away from it by the Indians. 
 
 In the year 1784, we find him on this site, which was then 
 called, and for many years after, "Lime Stone," as the creek of 
 that name entered the river at this point. 
 
 In 1786, Daniel Boon resided on this site. Maysville can 
 boast of as illustrious pioneer ancestry, a? any other place in 
 America. Both Kenton and Boon figured nobly in the first set- 
 tlment of the country. 
 
 At the site of the present city of Maysville, was exhibited an- 
 other scene of memorable pioneer history. George Rogers Clark 
 and Gabriel Jones, returning from Pittsburgh, in 1776, with five 
 hundred pounds of powder for the stations in Kentucky, concealed it 
 at the mouth of Lime Stone creek, where now stands Maysville. 
 Col. Todd was in the neighborhood with a party of troops, and 
 Jones with some of the party with the powder found Todd and 
 informed him of it. The Indians had discovered Clark's trail, and 
 waylaid it. Todd and party going for the powder, were defeat- 
 ed. Himself, Jones, and many others killed. The powder and 
 Clark were saved. 
 
 Maysville is fast becoming an important place. It is situated 
 on the great thoroughfare by turnpike from Chillicothe, to Lex- 
 ington, and is the termini of several contemplated railrods. It 
 is also located in the midst of a fine, healthy and fertile country.
 
 UPPER OHIO RIVER CINCINNATTI. 
 
 It now contains an elegant and superb City Hall, 8 churches, 12 
 schools and seminaries, a hospital, a bank, a steam cotton facto- 
 ry, a bagging factory, 2 foundaries, several rope xvalks, many 
 saw and flouring mills, and other factories, In it are about 5C 
 groceries, retail and wholesale; 27 dr} good stores, several pork 
 houses, and 4 lumber yards, together with many other manufac- 
 tories and trading establishments. This site was,in olden times 
 called Lime Stone, but of latter date, has assumed the name a- 
 bove mentioned. 
 
 Cincinnati is beautifully situated on an eminence, verging to 
 the Ohio river, and extending back with a gentle elevation for 
 some miles. It is located on the rorth west side of the Ohio, 
 and is the county seat of Hamilton county. This city is situa- 
 ted on a high and commanding region of country, and in the 
 heart of one of the most wealthy and best improved sections of 
 the great Valley of the West. It is not only blessed with the 
 commercial facilities of the Ohio river, but it enjoys also many 
 canals and railroads extending to every section of the United 
 States. Different routes of canals connect it to the lakes at Cleve- 
 land, Sandusky and Toledo, and the railroads give it a commu- 
 nication to the lakes, the Mississippi, the Atlantic ocean, and 
 soon to the Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 This city is also blessed with a country population, surround- 
 ing it for hundreds and hundreds of miles in every direction, that 
 are very intelligent, industrious, and energetic. This population 
 youthful, vigorous, and efficient, make this and other cities. 
 
 The citizens themselves, enjoy all the elements of a great 
 people, and they have demonstrated it in the various branches of 
 industry and enterprise, with which this great metropolis is 
 blessed. 
 
 By a kind of general consent, this city has acquired the name 
 of "the Queen city of the West," and her general growth, im-
 
 g*KTCH OP TH* COVJTTfcY. 27 
 
 portance, and prosperity seem to justify it. This city has been 
 identified with the fortunes of the West since its first existence 
 to the present time. 
 
 In 1789, a few citizens, Denman, Patterson and Ludlow, laid 
 out this city, and gave it the name of Losanteville, which was 
 too purely transcendental and was laid aside for the beautiful 
 name of Cincinnati. 
 
 It was then, as the West was in the year 1789, a very small- 
 circumstance. But as the country has grown, so has this city 
 until it is at tnis day, considered one of the greatest emporiunw 
 on the Globe. 
 
 The selection of this admirable site for a great commercial 
 city, was singular. It is stated by grave and reverned writers, 
 that it was the charms and bewitching fascinations of a lovely 
 black eyed beauty, that gave the preference to this location over 
 the North Bend and other places on the river. 
 
 It is related that Maj. Doughty, commander of the troops at 
 North Bend, was enamored with the charms and fascinating 
 smiles of this black eyed beauty: the husband of the lady thinking 
 the atmosphere a distance from the gallant Major was better for 
 his wife's health, moved from North Bend to the site of the pres- 
 ent Cincinnati. 
 
 The Major realised what the poet said: 
 
 "Of all afflictions taught a lover yet, 
 'Tis sure, the hardest science to forget;" 
 
 and located himself and troops near the lady on the site of lEe 
 present great city of Cincinnati. 
 
 Maj. Doughty established a Fort here,called Fort Washington, 
 in 1789, on Arch street, of the present day, between Third and 
 Fourth streets, east of Broadway. It is not stated, the exact res- 
 idence of the black eyed lady. 
 
 The commerce of this city is very great and important* A*
 
 228 UPPER OHIO RIVER CINCINNATTI. 
 
 mount of capital invested in the commerce of this city $22,000,000 
 and the arrival of steamboats in 1850, was 3 698. And at 
 other place on the globe, are so many hogs slaughtered as 
 Cincinnati, Pork alone exported the last year, is estimated over 
 $3,000,000. 
 
 City tax collected in 1851, was $438,345, and one item is fc 
 the support of common schools, $87,220 included in the above. 
 
 This city is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, and three Alder- 
 men from each Ward. Also there are separate Courts, for the 
 city and commerce. 
 
 Manufactures in this place stand out the admiration and won- 
 der of the age for such a youthful city, Number of hands em- 
 ployed in the various fabricks is 32,450, and the annual value of 
 products $48,000,000. In this city, 180 various and distinct 
 classes of manufactures are established, and 3.400 including the 
 aggregate of all factories. 
 
 It is due to the great-city and the public, to state that it con- 
 tained in 1850, 140 bakeries, 12 bell and brass foundries, 72 
 blacksmith shops, 10 factories of boilers, 15 book binderies, 374 
 boot and shoe factories, 31 breweries, 60 brick yards, 208 mason 
 shops, 121 butcher shops, 284 carpenter shops, 24 carriage fac- 
 tories, 63 cooper shops, 42 copper plate printing establishments, 
 
 13 beef curing shops, 4 cutleries, 32 Daguerreotype shops, 10 
 domestic liquor factories, 6 distilleries, 38 whiskey distilleries, 15 
 dye houses, 19 edge tool factories, 14 engraving factories, 14 
 feed and flour mills, 44 foundries and engine shops, 136 furni- 
 ture factories, 10 gilding shops, 2 glass works, 6 gunsmith shops, 
 
 14 ice packing establishments, 5 iron rolling mills, 10 lever lock 
 factories, 4 lithrographic shops, 7 looking-glass factories, 12 me 
 chinist shops, 5 marble works, 6 mathematical and other instru- 
 ment factories, 10 upholsters, 60milener shops, 7 morocco leather 
 factories, 6 musical instrument factories, 1 castor oil factory, 34
 
 SKETCHES OP THE COUNTRY. 229 
 
 oil, lard and sterine factories, 3 linseed oil factories, 72 paint 
 shops, 9 paper mills, 14 patent medicine factories, 14 potteries, 
 33 pork, be<sf and ham curing factories, working 2,450 hands; 
 and producing $5,750 000 worth ofjriands each year, 12 pub- 
 lishing houses, 40 sadleries, 7 steamboat yards, 98 tailor shops, 
 30 tanneries, 40 wine factories, 2 type foundries, 42 wagon fac- 
 tories and many other manufactories too tedious to mention. 
 
 There are in this city, two hundred or more steam engines in 
 operation, propelling the various descriptions of industry. A 
 chemical labratory is established here by E. Gresselli, & Co., 
 and does an extensive business. 
 
 The fire department in the Queen City, it is said, is the best 
 and most efficient in the Union, and this is the reason why such 
 destructive fire* have not occurred in this place, as are witnessed 
 in other cities. Each department have two fire companies, and 
 the proper engines &c., and the companies are composed of effi- 
 cient and respectable young men. 
 
 The Mechanics' Institute is erected with grand and imposing 
 collossial proportions, exhibiting the splendor of American ar- 
 chitecture in an eminent degree. It is beautifully situated on 
 the west corner of Sixth and Vine streets, and is designed to im- 
 prove, elevate and exalt the great masses of working people. 
 The design of this institution is noble and honorable to the city, 
 and the prosperity of the establishment is the best guarranty of 
 its utility. 
 
 Although the citizens of this city, are celebrated for their tal- 
 ents and efficiency in advancing their material interest and world- 
 ly gear, yet the great and grand studies of Astronomy and Phi- 
 losophy, are not overlooked in the general and universal scram- 
 ble for wealth. 
 
 The Cincinnati Observatory is beautifully situated on a hfgh 
 eminence, east of the city, called Mount Adams, in honor of the 
 
 38
 
 "230 UPPEH OHIO KIVER CINCINNATI 1 !. 
 
 ate President of the United States. This edifice is erected of 
 Beautiful cut stone, and is decorated and adorned in the style of 
 he most improved architecture. In 1843, Ex-President Adams 
 lid the corner stone. The telescope is from the factory of Mentz 
 c Co., Munich, Germany, and cost $10,000. 
 ;1 hus it is; the citizens of Cincinnati possess the wisdom to culti- 
 ate and advance the most sublime and grand science Astrono- 
 ly as well as to pack pork, and do other necessary business. 
 This city has within its limits, two grand and extensive Halls, 
 ne the Masonic, and the other, pertaining to the Odd Fellows, 
 oth of which present to the public models of elegant architec- 
 trre. The Masonic cost $30,000. In these Halls are eonduc- 
 d open and palpable business in day-light, as well as the mys- 
 ries and secrecies of the above societies. 
 
 The Cincinnati College edifice stands out the beautiful and 
 classical model of Grecian architecture. It is constructed out of 
 Dayton maible, and will in the hands of posterity, be consider- 
 ed, as it is at this day, a magnificent specimen of American ar- 
 chitecture. 
 
 The Art Union buildings are a great mental treat to the pub- 
 lic. 
 
 In the upper story,is the saloon of the Westeirft Art Union,and 
 in it are deposited many works of the most distinguished artists 
 the world ever saw. 
 
 Another of the splendid public buildings is the Burnet House 
 oil the corner of Third and Vine streets, This hotel is erected 
 at a cost of $300,000, including the lot, and contains 342 rooms . 
 The furniture cost $100,000, and "mine host" Mr. Coleman, is 
 the accomplished keeper. 
 
 This building presents the grave, solid and substantial style of 
 Egyptian architecture, and seems to be erected as much for pos- 
 terity as the present day.
 
 SKETCHES OF rut otrifTiiv. 231 
 
 The Cathedral of St. Peter is a splendid church edifice, built 
 by the Roman Catholics, at a cost including the lot, of $124,000. 
 It is 200 feet long 80 wide, and the spire 250 feet high. Car- 
 r&ra marble compose the altar, and the roof is supported by 18 
 fluted frestone Corinthean columns. The ceiling is richly orna- 
 mented and decorated with due respect to the elegant and refined 
 in the beautiful, being of stucco work, and being also a model of 
 taste and talent. 
 
 An organ in this church, cost $5,000, and has 2,700 pipes, and 
 46 stops in it. Music eminating from this instrument to earthly 
 sinners, seems almost celestial. 
 
 This city is adorned by many more magnificent public build- 
 ings; but space in these Sketches is not not sufficient in which to 
 enumerate them. 
 
 Number of churches in this city is about 100 including two 
 Hebrew synagogues, and one society called the "Universal church 
 of Man." This last society meets Sabbath afternoons in tha 
 Mechanics' Institute. They have a name very comprehensive, 
 and seems of sufficient enlargement to embrace all other church- 
 es. 
 
 One hundred churches, with the Universal Church of Man at 
 the helm, present a grand and sublime testimony of the morality 
 of the citizens of the Queen City. Without the holy and be- 
 nign influence of churches among the masses, a community would 
 wither and die. But for religion to be useful and efficient it 
 must be intelligent and liberal. 
 
 The institutions of learning in this city, are numerous. All 
 others yield the palm to the common and district schools. In 
 these schools are taught without fee or reward, the rudiments of 
 education to all classes of citizens. The city is divided into 
 fourteen school districts, each having a school house capable of 
 accommodating iOO scholars. All the school houses are brick,
 
 232 UPPER OHIO RIVER ClJTCllTKATTI. 
 
 three stories high. At this time there are employed 147 teach- 
 ers, and 7,000 students attend them, In connection with these 
 schools, is the common high school, where are studied the scien- 
 ces and high branches of learning, Also many private schools 
 are sustained in the city,and there are five medical colleges. The 
 Weslyan College, Xavier College and the Woodward College are 
 sustained with princely liberality. 
 
 The public press of the Queen City, is intelligent,profound and 
 efficient. How little do the public know of the great blessings 
 of the press! Ma*iy enjoy the light of Heaven, during life, and 
 never feel grateful for it. So it is often with the press. It is 
 the next thing to light from on High, and many enjoy it without 
 gratitude. 
 
 Suppose all the presses were to close up at once. An Egyp- 
 tian darkness would soon prevail over the earth, and man would 
 soon relapse into his original darkness. There are eight daily 
 papers issued in this city, and many others, weekly, monthly, and 
 at other periods. 
 
 Gas illuminates the city in the night, and many of the private- 
 buildings. Also it is blessed with efficient water works, that 
 force the water of the Ohio river 200 feet above the lowest part 
 of the city, and pipes convey it to all parts of the community. In 
 this city there are six markets, which are well supplied with ex- 
 cellent provisions for the public. 
 
 Thus we leave this great and growing city, and cross the Ohio 
 river to Newport and Covington, both situated on the Ohio river, 
 in the State of Kentucky. These towns are situated on the op- 
 posite sides of Licking river, and are in truth one city, as there 
 is a fine bridge across the Licking connecting them together. 
 Newport contains 6,000 inhabitants, and Covington 12,000. 
 
 One of the most efficient and interesting institutions in the 
 Mississippi Valley is the Western Baptist Theological Institute,
 
 &KETCHFS OE THE COUNTRY. 233 
 
 situated on a beautiful eminence, one mile from the Ohio river, 
 in Covington. This institution enjoys a princely endowrnent> 
 and bids fair to become famous in the church annals of the Uni- 
 ted States. The Rev. John M. Peck, of Illinios, was called by 
 the managers of the institution, t6 take charge of it. He exer- 
 cised lor a season all his profound talents and extraordinary en- 
 ergy to promote the best interest of the establishment; but his 
 feeble health forced him to abandon his charge. 
 
 The steamer, after 142 miles travel, descending the Ohio riv- 
 er, arrives at Louisville, Kentucky. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 LOUISVILLE, AND LOWER OHIO RIVER. 
 
 Jeffersonville is handsomely situated on a high bank of the 
 Ohio river in Clark county, Indiana, and contained in 1850, 2,- 
 122 inhabitants. It is located at the upper extremity of the Falls 
 of the Ohio, and nearly opposite Louisville. 
 
 Many public buildings are erected here, the State Prison of 
 Indiana, the United States Land Office, and other public institu- 
 tions are established in thii city. It is a prosperous place, hav- 
 ing the termini of many railroads in it. 
 
 Louisville occupies a beautiful eminence on the margin of the 
 Ohio river, and the upper end of the Falls, and at the mouth of 
 Bear Grass creek. It is the county seat of Jefferson county, 
 Kentucky a port of entry, and is one of the most flourishing'em- 
 poriums of the great West. It" was called Louisville in the year
 
 234 
 
 LOngVILLE, AND TOWER OHIO RIVER. 
 
 1778, by the Legislature of Virginia, in honor of Louis XVI., 
 
 of France, after that nation had joined the Americans in the 
 
 Revolution against England. 
 Thomas Bullitt as early as 1773, laid out the town; but no 
 
 emigrants located here, until the fall of '78, after the arrival of 
 
 Col. Clark. 
 
 In June of '78 Col. Clark first occupied Com Island, opposite 
 
 Louisville with a military camp, preparatory to his descent on 
 the Illinois country. In the fall of that year a block house Fort 
 was established on the main land, where the city now stands; 
 but in 1782, it was removed for the erection of Fort Nelson, on 
 the same site. 
 
 In 1780, about thirty inhabitants were settled in this place, 
 who suffered greatly by the hostile Indians. In 1800, this city 
 contained only 600 inhabitants, and at this time it is estimated at 
 65,000 souls. 
 
 This city is fortunately located for commercial and manufac- 
 turing industry. It is situated in the midst of an extended region 
 of extremely productive soil, and of vast mineral wealth. Not 
 only does it enjoy the commerce of the Ohio river, but the rail- 
 roads are numerous diverging from this city to almost all points 
 of the compass. 
 
 This city is at this day, one of the most wealthy places in A- 
 merica, to the number of its inhabitants, and does a large com- 
 mercial and manufacturing business. 
 
 It is stated that the value of itscommerce last year was $70,- 
 000,000, and increasing rapidly. It is stated there are 25 whole 
 sale houses in this place, that sell in a year $5,853,000. In this 
 city are 36 wholesale grocery stores, that sell annually $10,623,- 
 400. The imports annually of 103 houses in this city are $20,- 
 321,400. These few items show the great commerce of this 
 city.
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 236 
 
 Louisville is also largely engaged in boat building. In 1850, 
 34 steamers containing 6,460 ton, were built in the district; and 
 14,820 ton, all navigated by steam, were o<vned here. 
 
 In this city are 8 steam factories of bagging, ropes, &c , 12 
 iron foundries,! brass foundry, 1 rolling mill, 4 lard oil factories, 
 4 flouring mills, 1 white lead factory, 1 nail factory, gas works, 
 several glass factories, pork houses, candle and soap factories, 
 and many more too tedious to enumerate. 
 
 There is no place on the Ohio river that has advanced its fac- 
 tories within a few years more than this city has done. 
 
 The public buildings of this place are elegant and beautiful, 
 showing forth the ingenious talents in the grand and sublime 
 science of architecture of this city to be inferior to none on the 
 continent. 
 
 In this city are 30 churches and one Hebrew synagogue. Ma- 
 ny of these buildings are erected with great taste, combining the 
 most classic models of architecture, with the American notions of 
 utility. 
 
 The University of Louisville is a magnificent edifice, reared 
 with great display of architectural talents and delicate taste. 
 The Medical Institute is worthy of the age, and of the tasty and 
 elegant city of Louisville. Nor are the poor blind forgotten. 
 An Assylum for them is erected here, that reflects honor upon 
 Kentucky. The building, although for the bund, is nevertheless 
 elegant, grand and magnificent, and also large and commodious. 
 
 A large and substantial court "house is erected in this city, 
 which displays a noble solid front, that the popular breezes of the 
 day cannot disturb the scale in dispensing even handed justice. 
 A fine jail is also erected in this place, where evil doers are 
 forced to regret the breach of some one of the ten command- 
 ments. 
 
 A splendid City Hall and an ample Theatre are standing in
 
 236 LOUISVILLE, AND LOWER OHIO RIVER. 
 
 this place, the evidence of architectural talents. Also are in 
 this city, 1 hospital, 2 orphan assylums, 4 large school houses, 
 a city work house, 5 banks, and many splendid hotels and a 
 Magdalin Assylum for the over confiding females. 
 
 The press in this city is in the hands of profound scholars, 
 and many of them practical statesmen. There are 4 dailies, and 
 many weeklies and monthly sheets printed. 
 
 Louisville is laid out in tasty and elegant streets, many of them 
 being 120 feet wide. Ten streets run parallel with the river, 
 and 30 cross them at right angles extending from the river out. 
 The site of the city is beautiful, and elevated 70 feet above the 
 Ohio, being in no danger of the floods of the river. 
 
 The topography of the country in and around this city, is 
 strange. There is on the surface no traces of the lime-stone 
 rocks, that extend across the river and cause the Falls. There 
 is no hill or river bluff near the city it seems to be an extended 
 plain, and the city occupying its highest elevation. Some miles 
 north west the river hills are visible in Indiana; but none exist 
 near this city. It seems the rocks in the Falls, were placed there 
 before the river flowed over them, and that the Ohio has not had 
 time as yet, to wear a channel through them to suit its conveni- 
 ence. 
 
 For many years, in early times, this place was known as the 
 Falls, and the Falls of the Ohio, and Louisville was scarcely ev- 
 er mentioned. 
 
 In the rear of this city in Jefferson county, in the Revolution, 
 and towards its close, a colony was formed of many families of 
 grest respectability and distinguished notoriety for their eminent 
 services in the Revolution. The families of Clark, O'Fallan, 
 Pope, Cochran, Anderson. Bullit, Shipp, Lynn, and some others, 
 composed this colony, whose posterity for the most part, equalled 
 their distinguished ancestry, except the first generation was en-
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 237 
 
 gaged in the Revolution that immortalized all those who acted 
 well their parts in that struggle for liberty, and the descendants 
 have not that opportunity. 
 
 In this city lived for many years and died, George Rogers 
 Clark, the distinguished hero, and founder of the West. The 
 true character of this great man is becoming more developed and 
 and appreciated throughout America, every succeeding year. 
 The chivalry and noble daring in the Revolution achieved in the 
 East, were first presented to the admiration of the world; but at 
 last the great West and her heroes, and great champions of liber- 
 ty, are being known and admired by all. And amongst all the 
 great Captains and heroes of the Revolution, George Rogers 
 Clark occupies a proud rank in front with the most meritorious 
 characters of that day. 
 
 It looks almost like a miracle at this day, how one man with- 
 out money, and almost without men, could put in motion the mili- 
 tary expedition to conquer strong fortifications, defended by can- 
 non and regulai soldiers, as were then stationed at Kaskaskia 
 and Vincennes. 
 
 The conquest of Illinois was achieved in the year 1778, in the 
 darkest time of the Revolution, and while the West was surroun- 
 ded with numerous and powerful bands of hostile Indians, and 
 the whites few in number, and those few scattered over a vast 
 territory, unconnected with each other. The military character 
 of Col. Clark, and his great and comprehensive mind, rose tri- 
 umphant and victorious over all these adverse circumstances, and 
 he added a country to the old thirteen States, that is now the ad* 
 miration of the world. 
 
 Clark's campaign in the conquest of Illinois is considered the 
 most brilliant and momentous achievement, that was performed 
 in the war of the Revolution, 
 
 At Pittsburgh, he first commenced his extraordinary campaign
 
 LOFISVJLLE, AND LOWER OX10 RIVER. 
 
 his soldiers entirely confiding in him; us at first they did not 
 know their destination; and accumulated strength until they 
 reached the Falls of the Ohio. There he organized his small 
 band of four companies, amounting in all to only 153 men. 
 With this small corps he conquered the Illinois country; and cap- 
 tured the strong Forts at Kaskaskia and Vincennes. 
 
 These services entitle Clark & soldiers,tothe the highest fame 
 and honor that can be conferred upon them by posterity. A 
 monument should be erected in the West in honor of him and his 
 Revolutionary patriots. 
 
 The Louisville and Portland canal is a great and magnificent 
 work, making the Ohio river navigable for two and a half miles, 
 around the Falls. The canal is 50 feet wide, and 10 feet deep, 
 cut out of a solid lime-stone rock, at an enormous expense. It 
 has done great service to the country. Louisville is in lattitude 
 38 03 'North. 
 
 We leave this beautiful city in the hands of Providence and 
 its own citizens, and reach New Albany, four miles down the 
 river. 
 
 This city is situated on the bank of the Ohio, and is the seat 
 of justice of Floyd county, Indiana. It was laid out in 1813^ 
 and contains at this time a popultion of eleven or twelve thou- 
 sand inhabitants. 
 
 New Albany is a brisk and efficient place of business. It has 
 obtained much fame for steamboat building and repairing 3 
 large iron foundries, and many steam engine shops, are carried 
 on to great perfection, and many other manufactures. 
 
 This growing city is also fortunately situated for commerce, 
 being the iermini of railroads extending to the lakes, and con- 
 necting it with railroads to all parts of the continent. It contains 
 130 stores of all descriptions, and does a considerable manufac* 
 turing and commericial business.
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 It contains 11 churches, and an excellent system of common 
 schools. There is a grand Collegiate Institute, and many serni- 
 raries of learning established in this place. Also one bank and 
 two newspapers exist in this city, and all the ordinary "doings" 
 and manufactures of a well organized community are carried on 
 in New Albany. 
 
 The noble and chivalric State of Kentucky borders on the 
 Ohio river, from Big Sandy down to the Mississippi, and is the 
 oldest daughter of the Virginia family of States. Kentucky ex- 
 perienced much difficult} at its birth; but after that period, it has 
 shone out, one of the brightest stars in the constellation of States 
 and in it patriotism and the love of liberty are cherished and es- 
 teemed as much as in any other section of the Union. 
 
 About eight or nine conventions were heldbetore the Govern- 
 ment of this State was organized, and on the 1st June, 1792, 
 Kentucky was admitted as a State into the Union. It is estima- 
 ted this State contains 37,680 square miles, and at least one 
 million of inhabitants at this time. The census of 1850 put the 
 population at 992,405. 
 
 The staple crops of Kentucky are- hemp and flax; and next, to- 
 bacco. Corn and wheat are extensively raised. The hemp crop 
 of this State is five-eights of the whole yield of hemp in the U. 
 S. Improved lands, 11, 368,270 acres, and unimproved, 10,972,- 
 478 acres; value of all land $154,380,262. 
 
 Number of factories in the State producing more than $500, 
 annually 3,471. 
 
 In 1851 this State contained five banks and 21 branches. 
 Capital, $7,536,927, and circulation $7,613,075. 
 
 Education is well attended to in this State. The school fund 
 was $1,400,270, besides a two per cent, tax, and 186,111 
 children attending the State schools; besides those going to pri- 
 vate schools.
 
 240 LOISVILLE, AND LOWER OHIO RIVER.. 
 
 . J_, 
 
 The Transylvania University, founded in 1798, at Lexington, 
 is the oldest in the West, and has turned out many accomplished 
 and learned scholars and statesmen. Many of the brightest or- 
 naments of the /West were educated at this institution. There 
 is no State in the Union, where Colleges and Universities are 
 more numerous and efficient, than they are in Kentucky, and to 
 many of them are attached law schools, and medical depart- 
 ments. At Louisville the seminaries of learning are the most 
 flourishing in the State. Libraries in the State in 1850, were 
 27, and 63,440 volumes in them. 
 
 In 1S50, this State had 66 periodical papers in it, and nine 
 published daily. 
 
 All the churches in the State were 1,818, and could accommo- 
 date 672,033 persons. Church property, $2,259,998. Amount 
 collected in 1851 by tax, $738,245 52. Paid out, $733,653 40. 
 All property in the State, $317,082,604. 
 
 Nineteen miles below New Albany, Salt river enters the 
 Ohio, and on this river was established the first salt works west 
 of the Mountains. 
 
 In 1778, Henry Crist, eleven men, and a woman ascended the 
 river with a boat to manufacture salt, and they were attacked by 
 120 Indians. The eleven men were killed, and the woman ta- 
 ken prisoner to Canada. Crist was terribly mangled; but crawl- 
 ed off and lived. He was afterwards elected to the Legislature, 
 and to Congress in 1808. It was ascertained afterwards that a- 
 bout thirty Indians were killed. This is a speck of the many 
 bloody battles fought in this State by the whites and Indians, be- 
 fore Wayne's treaty in 1795. 
 
 Upwards of one hundred miles below Louisville, is situated a 
 mineral region of country, that has at this time much attraction of 
 the public. It is situated in the State of Indiana, and in Perry 
 county, on the Ohio river above the mouth of Anderson river.
 
 0,1 
 
 or t am COVNT&T. 
 
 fhi* section of country is considered ' by many to be the best a- 
 dapted to manufacturing purpose than any other in America. 
 Coal, iron ore, and clay, exist here together in great abundance, 
 and already Cannelton, a handsome village, has sprung up, as if 
 by enchantment. In 1849 its population was only 500, and now 
 it is largely upwards of 2,000. No place on the river increases 
 with more rapidity. The Cannelton Cotton Mill is 285 feet long 
 67 feet wide, and the towers 106 feet high. It contains 11,- 
 000 spindles,and makes annually 5,000,000 yards of cotton cioth 
 The edifice is erected of cut rock, and finished in the most beau- 
 tiful proportions of architecture. 
 
 Six miles below, is the village of Troy, on the Ohio liver, and 
 contains 500 inhabitants. It also contains two churches and sev- 
 eral stores. 
 
 Not far below Cannelton is selected the site for a monument, 
 to the honor of Robert Fulton. He purchased the land many 
 years since, for its coal advantages; and on it, or some where 
 else, it is due to the services of this great man to erect a suitable 
 monument. 
 
 About 200 miles below Louisville, Green river enters the Ohio 
 and is made navigable by slack water navigation, for 165 miles, 
 to tke great Mammoth Cave, in Edmonston county, Kentucky. 
 
 This Cave is certainly one of the greatest wonders of the 
 world. It has been explored 18 miles, and perhaps this is only 
 the first installment to a new world. This is a small world in 
 the large old one. It contains 226 avenues, 47 domes, S cata- 
 racts, several rivers, and 27 pits, some of which remind us oi 
 Milton's bottomless pit. The great dome is 400 feet high, with 
 a water fall from its summit. In some of these large rivers, 
 miles and miles under ground, clear out of the reach of light 
 since the creation, the eyeless fish is found. 
 
 The power in mattei and the natural elements produced thes 
 
 40
 
 242 LOISVILLE, AND LOWER orflO RIVER. 
 
 fish, and as there was no use for eyes, none were given them. 
 Wnen man attempts to fathom the works of nature, he is almost 
 as Mini! as these fish. 
 
 Evansville is beautifully situated on a high and commanding 
 bank of the Olno river, nine miles below the mouth of Green 
 river, anl is the capital o;' Vaalerburg county, Indiana. This 
 city was laid out in 1316, and called Evansville, in honor to 
 Gen. Evans of pioneer memory. Not many places on the Ohio 
 has growed faster, or bidj fairer to be a large city than Evans- 
 ville. 
 
 One house alone in this city does business to the annual a- 
 mount of $300,000. Part of the annual exports of this city are 
 600,000 bushels of corn, 10,000 oats, 1,500 ton of hay, and l r 
 500,000 Ibs. of pork. In 1850, the exports and imports were 
 $7,000,000, and the arrival and departure of boats were 5,39$. 
 It contains a splendid court house, jail and a branch of the State 
 bank. It also contains 7 churches, a market house, 2 fire com- 
 panies, many large and splendid hotels, a large number of stores 
 and a population of ten thousand souls, or more. 
 
 In this city, common schools are well organized, and Sunday 
 Schools are also advanced with all the power and moral influence 
 which tale'uted ladies can exert in the premises. 
 
 Henderson is handsomely situated on a high bank of the 
 Ohio river, twelve miles below Evau'sville, and is the county seat 
 of Henderson county, Kentucky. In early days this site was 
 known as the ''Yellow Banks," but modern usage has made 
 Henderson the name. It is a great shipping ploce^for the to- 
 bacco, and other products raised in the Green river country, and 
 is well supplied with coal and iron. It ships annually about 75,- 
 000 bushels of earn, and seven million Ibs. of tobacco. It con- 
 tains a court house, jail, 7 churches. 4 schools, 5 tobacco houses, 
 20 stores, and a population of 2,000 souls.
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COtTJCTRY. 243 
 
 About 40 miles below Henderson, the Wabash river enters 
 the Ohio, and is the division line between Indiana and Illinois ibr 
 many miles. This is a leautiful stream, I ut not a sufficient 
 quantity of water ibr navigation all the season. 
 
 The early French explorers . called the Ohio river, the Ou- 
 bouche, from the mouth of the Walashto tl.e Mississippi. Tl:ey 
 knew very little about the Ohio for many years aiter the flitt 
 exploration. 
 
 The French settled colonies on this river in the year 1730, or 
 about that time. They established a village on this river, which 
 was called Vincennes, and another 210 miles further up the 
 river, which they called Outenon. The Americans called it the 
 Weastowns, as a band of Indians of that name resided at it. 
 It is stated that much wheat was raised in 1740 between these 
 two villages on the Wabash. 
 
 This river waters a country, that can scarcely be surpassed for 
 fertile and productive soil. It rises in the State of Ohio, and 
 runs many miles through Indiana. On the source of this river, 
 Gen. St. Clair was defeated in the year 1791, and Gov. Harri- 
 son fought the celebrated battle of Tippacanoe near this same 
 stream in 1811. And in the Revolution in 1779, Col. Clark 
 captured Fort Sackville on the bsn'.c of this river in Vincennes. 
 Both Generals Scott and Wilkison led aimies to this river 
 before 1790. The Wabash Valley beats the world for the pro- 
 duction of coro-
 
 JLLKVOtfi CAIO. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 SOUTHERN ILLINOIS CAIRO. 
 
 By observing the map of Illinois, it will be sef n that no coun- 
 try can be better supplied with navigable streams than Southern 
 Illinois is, and no country posses a more favorable and more 
 pleasant climate. The southern extremity is in lattitude 37 
 North, which is considered the most genial clime on the Globe. 
 All the great rivers of the West concentrate towards this favor- 
 ed section of Illinois, and will at some day not far distant, make 
 it, by the commerce of these navigable streams, a great and im- 
 portant country. 
 
 Not only are all the great rivers of the West flowing to this 
 section of Illinois, but many streams also exist within this tract, 
 that may be rendered navigable and useful to commerce. The 
 Saline, Little Wabash, Big Muddy, Cash and other rivers, will 
 be improved, and thereby add to the facilities ot commerce. 
 And many railroads from the North and South will pass this 
 section of country. 
 
 The Central Railroad, which is one of the greatest works in 
 America, passes through this regiol of country, connecting the 
 Lakes and the Upper Mississippi with the Gulf of Mexico and
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUKTBY. '246 
 
 the Atlantic Ocean. Other roads are in contemplation passing 
 through this district, which, when completed, will add thair ad- 
 vantages to the advancement of commerce. 
 
 The whole region of country itself, is generally of the utmost 
 fertility of soil, and of beautiful undulating surface. 
 
 There are no mountains, or swamps that can not be easily 
 drained, and made available, so that the whole surface can be 
 be profitably cultivated. 
 
 An abundance of the finest timber in America, grows in this 
 district. Poplar, walnut oak, and almost all kinds of timber, ex- 
 cept pine, grow here in great perfection. In this section also is 
 great mineral wealth. Iron ore, stone coal, and salt water exist 
 here in abundance. 
 
 Iron Works have been in operation here for many years, and 
 yield an excellent quality of iron. Also much lead ore has been 
 discovered. 
 
 This section of country is located in the very heart of the 
 the great West, and the forks of two of the greatest rivers on the 
 globe, surrounded by other streams almost as important, and 
 possessing a fertility of soil and other natural advantages that 
 can not be surpassed, which will cause Southern Illinois in a few 
 years, "to blossom like the rose," and become one of the most 
 delightful and prosperous sections of the great Valley of the 
 West. 
 
 The section of the West, near the old States, had to be first 
 settled, and at this time Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana and Northern 
 Illinois, are tolerably well filled up, and now Southern Illinois is 
 being settled and improved, and will in a short time, present one 
 of the most lovely and interesting countries in the Valley. 
 
 Shawneetown is located on the north bank of the Ohio, 11 
 miles below the mouth of the Wabash, and contains 1,800 in- 
 habitants. It is the county seat of Gallatin county, and is the
 
 246 SOUTHERN ILLINOIS CAIRO. 
 
 largest town in Southern Illinois. 
 
 The site of this town was occupied for ages by a village of 
 
 Sha\vnee Indians, which gave it the name. The first white man 
 
 who located here, was a Frenchman, who kept a Jerry across the 
 
 O jio river to enable the. people to cross the river for salt, made 
 
 a i'rw m. ; les back at the Oh.o Saline This was in 1803, and 
 
 the m'xt year, Ensminger, Ellis, Sprinkle, Davenport, and some 
 
 S 5.i:led here. In 1807, M. M. Railings and many others 
 
 "re. 
 
 Migrants v\vre at first all squatters on Congress land, 
 i the thick cane brake. 
 
 iJcugivss laid out the town in lots, and sold them by 
 t' "!r. Dubbs. 
 
 vn contains a court house, jail and other public 
 ^Uildujgs. I*i it are also 3 churches, a United States Land Of- 
 ftce, a banking hose, many large stores, and a weekly news- 
 paper. 
 
 It was at this site, in the year 1765, that Col. Croghan, the 
 Ea^lis.-i d j ^ ;p.oa* the county, camped here for six days, 
 wlt.i !-!s trojpd, and in June of that year, they were attacked by 
 the Ki-:tc.ipoo and Miscouten Indians, and several of his men 
 were killed. 
 
 The Onio Saline 12 miles north of this town, is the next after 
 t!. K<uidwha, the largest salt works in the West. There is here 
 literally, a salt spring, that has U-i-n worked by th-e French from 
 ViiKt-unes, more tu?i;i o.ie hundred years ago. Millinois and 
 millions of bushels oi salt have been manufactured at those 
 works. But the salt fro.u the sea is taking the place of the other 
 salt to some extent. 
 
 Below Shawneetown 24 miles, is the Cave in the Rock, in the 
 bluff of the Ohio river, near the water. Many legends, and 
 tales of woe, and distress, murders, and massacres, are told of 
 
 41
 
 WtETOUl'S OE THE COUNTRY. 47 
 
 t his place. In olden times, before common schools were estab- 
 lished, this Cave would have been haunted with ghosts, and spir- 
 its of those murdered in it. 
 
 It is stated by a traveller in 1804, that the entrance into the 
 Cave is nearly semi-circular, and on a level with the river a* 
 high water mark. The passage is twenty feet high into ar* a- 
 partment, whose dimensines are 110 feet. Above this room is a 
 magnificent chamber, whose natural carvings resemble a Gothic 
 Cathedral. 
 
 Six miles below Cave-in-Rock, is located on a high bank of 
 the Ohio, Elizabethtown, the county seat of HonoWaon county, 
 Illinois; and it contains a] most 200 inhabitants. This town is the 
 commercial point for the back country, teeming with mineral and 
 agricultural resources, which may in time, make it a considera- 
 ble place. 
 
 Golconda is beautifully situated on the Ohio river, 25 miles be- 
 low Elizabethto'vn, and is the county seat of Pope county, Illi- 
 nois. This town contains about 12 stores and several hotels. It 
 is a place of some considerable commerce, and from it much 
 produce is shipped. It contains a fine brick court house and jail, 
 and about 500 inhabitants. As the country is improved and pop- 
 ulated, so will Golconda grow and flourish, and will become a 
 place of some considerable importance. 
 
 Smithland is beati fully situ.'iled on a high bank of the Ohio 
 river, at t!ia b.v^r Sils )f ths anr.ii of Uu C-i iv^rliril river; 
 and is a place of considerable business. It is the rounly seat of 
 Livingston county, Kei^a-.ky, anil cantains nearly .,OGO in! abi- 
 tants. In it is erected a handsome court house and jail, together 
 with 2 churches, a large iron foundry, a machine shop, a boat 
 yard, tannery and a large number of stores. Being at.the 
 mouth of the Cumberland, and on the Ohio, it is well situated 
 for commerce. It is an aged place, being first commenced about.
 
 248 SOUTHI&K ILLIJfOIB CAIRO. 
 
 the year *95,and called Smithland, as John Smith T. was the first 
 person who made a landing there on his emigration from Ten- 
 nessee to trie Yazoo country. 
 
 On a high and beautiful elevation on the Ohio river, stands 
 Paducah, the county seat of McCracken county, Kentucky, and 
 bids fair to become a great and flourishing city. It is located 
 below and near the mouth of the Tennessee, and occupies a high 
 and commanding section of country, entirely out of the floods of 
 the rivers. Although it has experienced much calamity from 
 fire, still there are many large and splendid brick houses erected 
 in this city, that make an imposing and grand appearance from 
 the river. This is the third best city in Kentucky, on the Ohio, 
 and carries on a considerable commerce. 
 
 Paducah contains about 50 large stores, 2 banks,a court house, 
 jail, and a population of 4,000 souls. 
 
 Many splendid hotels are erected here, that are a pleasant 
 and agreeable retreat to travellers. 
 
 Building and repairing boats are prosecuted here on a large 
 scale, and many large steamers summer here, when they are out 
 of the lower trade. 4 churches, schools, and all other matters 
 and things necessary to the pleasure and well being of a refined 
 and polished society are established and prosecuted here. It has 
 as a public journal printed here. 
 
 This city was laid off in 1827, and called Paducah in honor of 
 a celebrated Indian chief. Paducah is the residence of many 
 distinguished individuals; among whom is the Hon. Lynn Boyd, 
 Speaker of the House of the U. S. Congress. 
 
 The site old Fort Massacre, occupies a most beautiful position 
 on the Ohio river, ten miles below Padukah,and was the ancient 
 selection of the French Missionaries for a stand to Christianize 
 the Indians; and was also selected for a Fort. In 1711, the Mis- 
 sionaries occupied it, and in 1756 the French built a Fort on this
 
 f KUTt-HHS or TBB OOVVTAT* 
 
 site. The Americans have occupied it with a Fort almost ever 
 sine* the Revolution, until of recent date. It is one of the love- 
 liest situations on the Ohio river. 
 
 One mile below, is Metropolis, the capital of Massac county, 
 Illinois. This town also occupies a most beoutiful site on the 
 Ohio river, and will become a place of business and importance. 
 The back country is good, and this will be a point. A court 
 house, jail and two hotels are established here. It is improving 
 fast and has about 250 inhabitants. 
 
 Caledonia is beautifully situated on a high and commanding 
 eminence on the Ohio river, 13 miles above its junction with the 
 Mississippi, and is the county seat of Pulaski county, Illinois. 
 The fine country in the rear of this town, and the beautiful and 
 elevated site, must some day make this a considerable place. 
 It contains a court house, jail and about 200 inhabitants. 
 
 Near this town is*an ancient mound or fortification, which 
 owes its existence to the hand of man. It covers several acres 
 of land,and seems to have been more intended fora fortification, 
 than most other mounds in the West. 
 
 All over the western country these mounds exist and some as- 
 sert that they are found all over the earth. There are many in 
 the State of Ohio near Circle ville, and other parts of the State. 
 A large mound stands near the mouth of Grave Creek, 12 miles 
 below Wheeling. In Tennessee and Kentucky, they are also 
 found. But I beleve, more exist in the region of country around 
 the mouth of the Missouri on the Mississippi, than any other 
 section in the West. The Big Mound, or Monk Mound, in the 
 American Bottom, five or six miles north east of St. Louis, is 
 the largest in the Mississippi Valley. It is 800 yards in cir- 
 cumference, and about 200 feet high. In the vicinity, many 
 more exist, but not so large. 
 
 Time has made an insurmountable barrier between us and
 
 iOUTHEKN ILLINOIS CAIRO, 
 
 those people of the mound days. That they were more advanc- 
 ed in the arts and civilization, than the present Indians, cannot 
 be doubted. We must bid them a long farewell. 
 
 The Ohio river towards its mouth is much more expanded and 
 beautiful, than above. 
 
 Near Caledonia is the Grand Chain, which is a great obstruc- 
 tion to navigation, when the river is low. It is a ledge of rocks 
 extending across the river. A bar at Cumberland is also injuri- 
 ous to commerce in low \\ater. The General Government has 
 expended millions of dollars on this river to improve its naviga- 
 tion, and many consider that no good has been done. It seems 
 when one bar is removed another is formed. The main objec- 
 tion is in the want of water, and not the bed of the river, and it 
 must be improved by slack water navigation. Competent en- 
 gineers must decide the mode of improvement. 
 
 Cairo is situated on the point of land, directly at the junction 
 of the Ohio and Mississippi, and the city is intended to join on 
 both those great streams. No location could be better selected, 
 and the inevitable destiny of the city is to greatness and gran- 
 deur. 
 
 It is conceded that the Mississippi Valley, is the largest con- 
 tinuous fertile legion of country on the whole earth. The pro- 
 ducts of the soil, surpasses all other sections of the same size on 
 tire globe, and the mineral wealth is incalculably great and abun- 
 dant. This is not fancy, I ut stein reality. Caiio is not located 
 at one exterior of this basin, but occupies a perfectly central po- 
 sition of this vast region of country, extending from mountain to 
 mountain, and from the frozen North to the tropics. Cairo is 
 not only central as to territory, but all the great ravigable rivers 
 except a few, concentrate to it, and roll their mighty waters by 
 this city to the Ocean. The Ohio, Tennessee, Cumberland, 
 Wabash, Kaskaskia, Illinois, Rock, river, Mississippi, Missouri
 
 . &VKTCRMOF fHB ODKTMT. 
 
 and Maremack rivers, all concentrate their waters towards this 
 focus. All the commerce of these streams, except what the rail- 
 roads take off, will visit Cairo. 
 
 This city has the good fortune to possess asite that is between 
 deep and shoal water navigation. The great Father of Waters, 
 is the deep and majestic channel for the outlet of all the other 
 streams, and is always prepared for any ordinary class of large 
 vessels clear of the obstructions of low water and ice, which 
 are often visited on the other rivers. 
 
 The necessity of the case will require the large boats to halt 
 at Cairo, and smaller ones to take the cargoes up the smaller 
 streams; and the same in descending the small rivers: the freight 
 will be re-shipped at Craio on larger boats for the South. 
 
 Besides the immense commerce of these streams, the railroads 
 will add much to the growth and greatness of Cairo. The Cen- 
 tral railroad is almost completed, which will connect this city 
 with all the other cities in America, where the railroads extend. 
 Several other roads will be made in this section of the State,-^- 
 The great road from Mjbile, is bem^ constructed to this point. 
 
 The road from St. Louis to Nashville, will also pass this city, 
 
 and the road from Cairo to Vm'jennes, through the eastern sec- 
 tion of the State, will also be built. Tiien Cairo will enjoy, not 
 
 y the co.n njrce of the various rivers of the West, but 
 nlso the railroad communications to the Lakes, to the Atlantic 
 uid to the Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 An attempt was made for a Company to build up a city at this 
 )oint, and it failed, because the free and independent people of 
 America, must act under the guidance of their own talents and 
 energies, or otherwise they are not free men, and will not work 
 r act at all. The plan of rearing up this great city is now 
 hanged, and lots are sold to all who are willing to purchase them. 
 The proprietors of the site should put their lots at low rates to 
 
 '
 
 80UTXB&K ILLIKOli- 
 
 encourage settlements since the sale of lots ah impetus, great 
 and efficient has been given to the settlement and improvement 
 efthe place, 
 
 Objections have been urged that that the water overflows the 
 site at times. The site alone never made a city. This objec- 
 tion reminds me of the Indian, who had a trigger for a gun, and 
 wanted a gunsmith to make him a gun to his trigger. 
 
 It is the commerce, business and manufactures of the people, 
 that makes cities the site is the last and the least thing to be 
 considered. The great commerce of the Valley, and the manu- 
 factures of Cario, will make it a large and important city, inde- 
 pendent almost of the site. When the business of a place will 
 justify it, sites can be made to order, like a carpenter will build 
 a house. If it will be to the advantage of the people, a site for 
 citycan be made in the Mississippi river. 
 
 I believe the American people can 'accomplish any great wo 
 that ever was achieved by any other people in any former 
 or in any country* 
 
 If the improved lots in Cairo were to rise in value to equal t 
 best lots in St. Louis, or Chicago, a great outlay of money 
 them would be justified by the enhanced value, But facts a 
 swer all these objections. The Company some years ago, mad 
 a levee around Cairo, that withstood all the floods since it was 
 made. The levee is made 60 or 80 feet wide, and 5 feethighe 
 than the highest water, around a great tract of country embra 
 cing the site of Cairo, which stands triumphant against all th 
 floods above stated. The owners of lots within the levee, wi 
 raise them on a level with it, and then the city will be secuf 
 from inundation. 
 
 This spring the city commenced to improve in good earnest- 
 Many large buildings are going up, and other improvements ar 
 being made. The cars from ihe North, will soon reach it, wit 

 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. - 253 
 
 travel and freight, so that the necessary buildings must be erec- 
 ted to accommodate the business. 
 
 When the contemplated railroads are completed to this city, 
 together with the river trade, commerce, &c., will require many 
 large ware-houses. The large boats must re-ship the Southern 
 freights here on small boats to ascend the small streams, and 
 the railroads. A wharf and ware-houses for miles will be re- 
 quired to accommodate the business that must be transacted at 
 this point. Both the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, are impassible 
 every fall for large boats above this city, and such vessels are 
 compelled to stop here, so that freight must be stored away, and 
 re-shipped at this place for the North. 
 
 Moreover, most of the vessels engaged in the lower trade, 
 will remain at this point all the summer, and repair, and refit for 
 service when the season arrives in the South. 
 
 There is no point in the West that can surpass this for a boat 
 yard. The finest boat timber grow in the vicinity. 
 
 Excellent hotels exist here, and many more will be erected to 
 accommodate the travel from one point of the continent to the 
 other. A fine church is being erected, and preparations are be- 
 H made for common schools. An efficient and spirited paper 
 is published in Cairo, and edited with talent and ability by Mr 
 Hacker jr. 
 
 In a few years this place, under present favorable circumstan- 
 es, 11 present to the world, a great, growing and flourishing 
 
 Leaving Cairo, in Alexander county, Illinois, in lattitude 37 
 
 ** th, to its prospects of future growth and greatness, the gal- 
 
 int steamer Messenger, stemmed the strong current of the Mis- 
 
 iissippi, with almost the same ease and speed as it descended the 
 
 hio. On. the east is Illinois, and on the West extends for a 
 
 jreat many miles, the State of Missouri. This State, like* Ken- 
 
 43
 
 254 SOUTHERN ILLINOIS CAIRO, 
 
 tucky, had some trouble at its birth, but afterwards, it has pros- 
 pered in due proportion to other States of the confederacy. 
 
 In 1850, it contained 682,044 inhabitants, and the whole tax- 
 able property, real and personal, was $137,247,707. Number 
 of square miles, 67,380. Improved land was 2,924,091 acres; 
 and unimproved 6,767,937 acres. 
 
 Live stock valued to $19,765,951. The number of factories 
 producing more than $500 annually, were 3,030. The internal 
 trade of Missiouri is considerable. 
 
 In 1851, at St. Louis alone, 2,641 steamboats arrived; besides 
 barges, and other vessels, which may have conveyed as much 
 freight as the steamers. The tonnage in the above port was 
 683,140 ton. The receipts into the Treasury of Missouri, for 
 two years, ending 30th Sept., 1850, amounted to $787,088 71, 
 to which may be added $405,404 90 of the unexpended ballance 
 in the Treasury, making a total of $1,192,493 61. The finan- 
 ces of this State appear to be in a flourishing condition. 
 
 The school fund of Missouri is $585,667 96. The State has 
 appropriated one-fourth of all its annual revenues to the support 
 of common schools. All hail Missouri, for education! 
 
 Nineteen libraries, containing 37,506 volumes are established 
 ip this State, and 74 periodical papers published in 1850, circu- 
 lating at each issue 80,000 copies. 
 
 In 1850 Missouri contained 773 churches, capable to entertain 
 241,139 persons, and value of church property, $1,558,590. 
 
 No State in the Union contains any comparison to the mineral 
 wealth of Missouri. In it are eighteen million acres of mineral 
 land, extending 70 miles from the sources of the St. Francis to 
 the Maremac river, and 60 miles out from the -Mississippi. The 
 Iron Mountain is 1 1-2 miles long, and 444 feet high, composed 
 almost entirely of iron ore. The Pilot Knob is 1.500 feet high, 
 almost the whole ot which is iron ore. In both these mountain?. 
 I
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 255 
 
 . : 
 
 the mineral is good and pure. Enough of iron ore is here to 
 serve the world for ages. 
 
 Lead is found in abundance in this region. Various kinds of 
 clay exist here that is valuable for glass ware,&c. Copper is also 
 found, and a small unavailable amount of silver. A great por- 
 tion of this State is an excellent agricultural region of rich and 
 productive soil, and the whole State is rising fast to that noble 
 destiny, that her natural advantages, and the talents and energies 
 of her citizens are accomplishing for her. 
 
 On a high and beautiful eminence of the bank of the Missis- 
 sippi, stands Thebes, the county seat of Alexander county, Ills, 
 This town is 21 miles above Cairo and is located on the first, 
 high and solid bank of earth above the mouth of the Ohio. It 
 is situated in the midst of a fine country, and on a great naviga- 
 ble river, so that it may become a considerable place. 
 
 A court house, jail and a hotel, are about all the public build- 
 Ings, that are erected here as yet. It contains about 200 inhabi- 
 tants. 
 
 Almost opposite Thebes, the town of Commerce is situted on 
 the west bank of the Mississippi, in Scott county, Missouri. It 
 contains about 300 inhabitants, and many stores. It is a ship- 
 ping point for the back country, and bids fair for a prosperous 
 increase of wealth and population. 
 
 Some miles above is beautifully located on the second bank of 
 the Mississippi, Capegirardeau. It is situated in the county of 
 the same name in Missouri, and is a prosperous and flourishing 
 place; entirely out of the reach of inundation, and is the ship- 
 ping port for an excellent country. 
 
 M. Loramie,an Indian trader and a Frenchman, located here 
 first, in 1796, and commenced a settlement. Loramie had a 
 store of Indian goods, not far from Fort Wayne, on the sources 
 of the Wabash, & traded with the Indians north-west of the Ohio
 
 256 SOUTHERK ILLINOIS CAIRO, 
 
 for many years previous to Wayne's battle on the Maumee. He 
 was not popular with the Americans, and after Wayne's treaty, 
 he settled in the Spanish country, at Capegirardeau with a con- 
 siderable number of Indians, who followed him to his new resi- 
 dence. This town was made a district by the Spanish Govern- 
 ment, and M. Loramie appointed commandent. This gave rise 
 to the present prosperous town of Capegirardeau. 
 
 This town carries on a considerable business, and has many 
 large stores in it. It is the seat for many institutions of learn- 
 ing, and contains probably more educational facilities than any 
 other place in the West of the same size. It has 2 acadamies, 3 
 large school houses, and one convent. It is the present seat of 
 the celebrated College of St. Mary, containing a President, and 
 5 Professors, and perhaps 100 students; w r ith a library 2,500 vol- 
 umes, which is under the direction of the Roman Catholic socie- 
 ty. In this town is a population of about 2,000, and increasing 
 fast. 
 
 In olden times, a long and large piece of timber cut spirally, 
 after the manner of a screw auger, was fastended in the strong 
 current of the river, near this town; and the force of the water 
 gave the beam a spiral motion, that propelled a grist mill on the 
 there. The motion of the beam, was by proper gearing com- 
 municated to the machinery of the mill. 
 
 A short distance below the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, is 
 beautifully located on a high site, the town of Chester, the coun- 
 ty seat of Randolph county Ills. This location commences at 
 high water mark on the bank of the Mississippi, and extends 
 with gentle ascent over the river bluff. 
 
 On this eminence most ol the town of Chester is built, which 
 enjoys a charming position. 
 
 In this town are 9 stores that do a heavy business, 1 large 
 Hour ing mill, 1 castor oil mill, and many factories for the various
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY. 257 
 
 articles of commerce. Also there are in this town, 6 church ed- 
 ifices, and as many organized religious societies. Some of these 
 churches are finely finished buildings. 
 
 The learned professions in Chester are ably sustained by 
 learned and competent scholars. In it are 4 lawyers, and phy- 
 sicians and clergymen in due proportion to the demands of the 
 
 people. 
 
 On the high ground is erected in ample proportions, an ele. 
 gant court house, wherein Justice is administered with such im- 
 partiality, that secures respect to the tribunal. A jail is also e- 
 rected here, whose frowning front, sustained in the rear by large 
 and heavy walls of masonry, speaks a language to the prisoners 
 that causes them to remain quiet within. 
 
 Chester is admirably situated for commerce, being on the Mis- 
 sissippi, and enjoying an excellent harbor. It is also located at 
 a point to accommodate a large and wealthy back country, 
 
 Provision is made to accommodate t'vo or three hundred chil- 
 dren at the various schools. 
 
 Also is contained in Chester, a distinguised and efficient 
 weekly paper, known favorably far and near, as the "Chester 
 Herald." This sheet is edited with decided ability and marked 
 attention to the proper tone and character of an independent 
 newspaper. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 FRENCH COLONIES IN ILLINOIg. 
 
 Illinois in ancient days, included all the French colonies on 
 both sides of the Mississippi, but mostly they were made in the 
 American Bottom on the east side of the river.
 
 258 FEKNCK COLONIES IN ILLINOIS. 
 
 The gay, merry, and innocent French, first occupied this region 
 o country, and were a remote colony one thousand or fifteen 
 hundred miles from any other settlement; but by kindness and 
 honesty to the natives, and by their virtuous and religious life, no 
 people enjoyed more happiness than this colony did for a long 
 succession of years. 
 
 For half a century or more, the west side of the Missippi was 
 reserved for the natives, while the other was occupied by the 
 whites. 
 
 In 1673, Marqueite and Joliet descended the Mississippi, so 
 low as the Arkansas, and in 1682, La Salle and party also pass- 
 ed down the river near the site of old Kaskaskia. About the 
 year 1782, the Jesuit Missionary, Father Allowez, located him- 
 self in the Kaskaskia village of Indians, and preached to the 
 a borigines. 
 
 These Indians had been expelled from the country north, and 
 had afterwards formed this village. This nation was a band of 
 the Illinois Indians whose name was given to the Illinois river, 
 and the whole country west of Lake Michigan, The name 
 Illini, in the Indian language, means "real men," or superior 
 men. We retain the original name, although the race of people 
 whose name we preserve, are extinct. 
 
 The ancient and respectable town of Kaskaskia, is situated on 
 the west bank of the Kaskaskia river, six miles from its junction 
 with the Mississippi, and two miles from the last named river. 
 This'village was the first neucJeus of settlement south of Peoria, 
 and gradually increased from its first foundation in 1682, until 
 the English occupied the- country in 1 764. It is located in the 
 most fertile section of the "West, and the inhabitants in o!den 
 times, cultivated and raised a considerable amount of grain, live 
 stock, &c. The high cliffs ot the river, overhung it on the east; 
 but the village is located on a beautiful extended plain in the A- 
 
 44
 
 5KETCHFS OE THE COUNTRY. 
 
 259 
 
 merican Bottom, and is healthy. The Missionary station was 
 called "The village of the Immaculate Conception of the Holy 
 Virgin." 
 
 In 1721, Father Clarlevoix was in Kaskaskia, and of it says 
 that it is "a large village, inhabited by French, who are almost 
 all Canadians, and have a Jesuit for a curate." 
 
 He says truly, that "the French in this place live pretty much 
 at their ease. They raise wheat, cattle, poultry, &c." 
 
 About the same time (1682) Cahokia, called "Notre Dame 
 des Kahokias," was established, where the Cahoquias and Ta- 
 marous Indians had a village. The first missionary who settled 
 here was Father Pinet. The Missionaries and Indian traders 
 established this village, as they did Kaskaskia. Cahokia is sit- 
 uated in the Bottom, five or six miles below St. Louis. 
 
 In very early times in both these villages were erected Catho- 
 lic churches, and efforts were made to Christianize the Indians. 
 In 1712, the commerce and occupation of the whole Illinois coun- 
 try was granted by the King of France to Crozat, a wealthy 
 merchant of Paris, and some improvement and commerce com- 
 menced. Fifteen thousand deer skins, some Hour and Buffalo 
 meat, were shipped south in one year, and the villages above 
 named commenced to change their Indian character to that of 
 civilization. Yet there was no organized Government here un- 
 til the company of the West was established in 1719. Kaskas- 
 kia was then hailed as "old Kaskaskia," and was the metropolis 
 of all the Valley of the Mississippi. 
 
 In 1718, the French authorities commenced Fort des Chartres 
 sixteen or eighteen miles above Kaskaskia, in the American 
 Bottom, a musket shot from the river, and in 1720 was comple- 
 ted. The site was very injudicious; but the Fort was one of the 
 largest ever built in North America. It was an irregular quad- 
 rangle, and the sides of the exterior Polygon were 490 feet.
 
 360 TRENCH COLNILS IN ILLINOIS. 
 
 According to a survey made in 1820 by Messrs. Beck and 
 Hansen,the exterior wall was 1 ,447 feet, and in the interior were 
 erected several houses. The wall on the south side was 15 feet 
 high and three feet thick. The whole was made of lime-stone, 
 boated across a lake from the eastern bluffs of the river, and the 
 walls were made exceedingly strong. 
 
 I saw it first about fifty years ago, and it was fast falling into 
 ruins. A number of large pieces of cannon were piled away, 
 and stout trees were growing in many place inside the walls. 
 The powder magazine and one well were in tolerable order; but 
 the wall next the river had been washed away, and then the 
 river itself had left it. 
 
 It was the seat of the French Government in Illinois, while 
 they occupied the cnuntry; but in 1772, when the wall was de- 
 stroyed, the English, who had possession of it, abandoned it also, 
 and erected Fort Gage, on the bluff east of Kaskaskia. 
 
 The masonry of this Fort was excellent. The walls of the 
 magazine were 4 feet thick, and the stones walling the well were 
 cut round to suit its rotundity; but now it is a heap of ruins, like 
 the fallen Csesar, "none so poor as to do it reverence." 
 
 Adjoining this Fort was a French village and church, which 
 church was dedicated to St. Anne. In 1764 it contained forty 
 families, and a Franciscan Friar. 
 
 A village a few miles above. Fort Chartres, was founded by 
 Philip Francois Renault in 1720, and was called St. Philipps. 
 Afterwards it was generally known as the "Little Village." 
 
 In 1766, it contained 16 housus, a church, and a water mill. 
 Renault introduced into Illinois, the first negro slaves, 500, from 
 the West Indies, to work the mines in Illinois. 
 
 In 1822, another village, known as Prairie du Rocher, was es- 
 tablished at the foot of the rocky bluff of the river, four miles 
 below Fort Chartres.
 
 SKETCHES Or fHE 80UKTRY. 261 
 
 The French settlements prospered and nourished many years. 
 The clergy and the leaders of the colonies, were talented and 
 great men. The emigrants were instructed by them in agricul- 
 ture, and all matters of husbandry, and the soil in this Bottom 
 was so exceedingly fertile, that it needed only slight cultivation 
 to produce in abundance. 
 
 Seldom a people enjoyed virtue and innocence, and the conse- 
 quent happiness more than the early French settlers of Illinois . 
 From their infancy, under the guidance of the Roman Catholic 
 church, they had strongly impressed on them virtues,taught by the 
 holy scriptures. They were a small settlement, weak of them- 
 selves,, and remote from the contaminations of large and vicious 
 cities. Wealth was not an object of ambition with ther* at that 
 day. They possessed little and wanted no more. The summit 
 level of their ambition was neither wealth or power, but it was 
 to act in such honest and honorable manner, as to be deserving 
 a character for probaty and honesty. 
 
 Female virtue and probaiy were highly appreciated and reli- 
 giously observed. 
 
 Under these circumstances, together with the gay and happy 
 disposition of the French, they enjoyed as much pleasure and 
 happiness as is generally allotted to man. 
 
 But on the 16th Feb., 1763, the Illinois country on the east of 
 the Mississppi, was ceded to England, and from that period the 
 French settlements commenced to decline. 
 
 As soon as the transfer was known, the leading and wealthy 
 citizens migrated to the west side of the Mississiippi. At that 
 day there was a savage hostility existing between the French and 
 English. 
 
 About this time, and perhaps before, some emigrants from 
 Kaskaskia settled on the west bank of the Mississippi, near the 
 present Ste. Gennevieve, in Missouri, but the high water drove
 
 262 FRENCH COLONlEi IN ILLINOIS. 
 
 them off to the foot of the bluff where Ste Genevieve now stands.' 
 On this consideration the village in olden times was called Mis- 
 ere, which is in English, Misery. 
 
 It is stated that Ste Gennevieve contained 960 inhabitants in 
 1799, The lead trade first encouraged the settlement of this 
 village. 
 
 In 1767, a village was first settled by Delor de Tregette, six 
 miles below St. Louis, on the bank of the Mississippi, called in 
 early times Vide Poche, (Empty Pocket) and now known as the 
 city of Carondelet. 
 
 In 1764, the English by Capt. Stirling, took possession of the 
 Illinois country under the treaty, and immediately thereafter, the 
 whole population was estimated at 2,000 souls, including the 
 French, English and colored people. Almost all the prairie 
 land in the southern portion of the American Bottom, for forty 
 miles, was in cultivation, and water and wind mills were erected 
 throughout this distrist of country, where the streams permitted. 
 
 The English occupied the country for about 14 years, and or- 
 ganized in it courts of justice and a kind of Government. The 
 seat of the English government of Illinois, was at first held at 
 Fort Chartres, and on the 6th Dec., 1768, the first court was 
 held in the Fort. 
 
 In 1772, the Government was moved to Kaskaskfa, and there 
 remained until Col. Clark conquered the country in 1778. 
 
 On the night of the 4th July, 1778, Col. Clark, with a hand- 
 ful of men, captured Fort Gage, standing on the bluff east of 
 Kaskaskia, and the village. Capt. Bowman was sent with some 
 troops, mounted on French ponies, and took possession of Caho- 
 kia, A Government was then organized by the authority of 
 Virginia, which has remained with various amendments to the 
 present day. 
 
 Kaskaskia enjoyed the seat of all the Governments of Illinois
 
 SKETCHES OF THE, COUNTRY. 263 
 
 from 1772, down to the year 1819, when it was removed to 
 Vandalia; and it also contained a college of ,the Jesuits, and 
 many other religious institutions for a long term of years. Ca- 
 hokia was the county seat of St. Clair county from the earliest 
 organization of the Government, under the Americans, until 
 1814, it was moved to Belleville. 
 
 On the west side of the Mississippi the French villages have 
 prospered, while those on the east have declined, and some en- 
 tirely disappeared. 
 
 Carondelet is a fine city, containg 4,000 souls or more, 2 A- 
 cademies, several schools and a printing press. Ste Genne- 
 vieve contains 2,500 inhabitants, and is a place of considerable 
 commerce,. A plank road is made out to the Iron Mountain.-T- 
 It is the county seat of the county of the same name, Missouri, 
 and will become a considerable place of business. It also con- 
 tains a weekly paper. In it are many members of the learned 
 professions, that do honor to the country. In it resides the ven- 
 erable and distinguished patriot, the Hon. John Scott. This 
 gentleman studied law about the commencement of the present 
 century, in Vincejmes, Indiana moved to Ste Gennevieve. and 
 practiced law for the last half century. He was a member of 
 Congress from Missouri, and filled many other offices of respon- 
 sibility; but for the last few years of his life, he has declined all 
 public employment. Nature has endowed him with many of her 
 choicest gifts, which enabled him to take a high stand with the 
 great men of the country. He possesses great strength and com- 
 pass of mind, and his heart is filled with all the generous senti- 
 ments that elevate and adorn human nature. 
 
 The village of St. Philipps and the Fort Chartres village, 
 have entirely disappeared, and scarcely a trace of them can be 
 discovered. Prairie du Rocher has almost ceased to exist &.s a 
 village. Many of the former inhabitants reside in the vicinity
 
 264 FRENCH COLONIES IN ILLINOIS. 
 
 of the old village, and cultivate the ancient common field some 
 few live in it. Kaskaskia contains still many respectable citi- 
 zens. A land office is established here, and many stores, and 
 some factories sustained in it. 
 
 Cahokia, like Kaskaskia, still keeps up a church, but many 
 of the citizens have moved out of the village, to their planta- 
 tions, in the neighborhood, and are prosperous and happy. 
 
 The Illinois Fiench mostly speak the English language, and 
 all are Americanized completely. T hey are true patriots; and 
 will defend the country with their blood as freely as any other 
 people. The masses of the Creoles are generally worthy and 
 respectable citizens, and are moral, orderly and correct. 
 
 Upon reaching Belleville, Illinois, my humble "Sketches of 
 the Country" close, having traveled over a part of a very interest- 
 ing country, and having attempted in the^e previous sheets to give 
 the general outlines of the same. 
 
 NOTI. In reference to the printing of this work, it is due the 
 parties to state: that Mr. J. A. Willis printed the first 36 pages, 
 and Mr. Cave Johnson printed the bal lance.
 
 

 
 
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