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INDIANA 
 
 HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 PUBLICATIONS 
 
 VOLUME 14 
 
 NUMBER 2 
 
Copyright, 1942 
 
 BY THE 
 
 Indiana Historical Society 
 
THE DIARIES OF 
 DONALD MACDONALD 
 
 1824-1826 
 
 With an Introduction by 
 CAROLINE DALE SNEDEKER 
 
 INDIANAPOLIS 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 1942 
 
PREFACE 
 
 Mrs. Caroline Dale Snedeker, a daughter of New Har- 
 mony, has found in the home of her childhood an ever 
 stimulating field for exploration. A long search for material 
 about one childhood idol, Captain Donald Macdonald, led her 
 at last, as she writes in her Introduction, to members of the 
 Macdonald family in County Carlow, Ireland. In their hands 
 she found the manuscript Diaries kept by Captain Macdonald 
 on his two journeys to the United States and to New Harmony. 
 Through her great interest and the generosity of Mrs. Helen 
 Macdonald and other members of the family, there was secured 
 a photostat copy of the Diaries. From this photostat, now in 
 the files of the Indiana State Library, the manuscript was 
 transcribed for publication. 
 
 Captain Macdonald's spelling, punctuation, and capitaliza- 
 tion have been preserved. To facilitate printing, a number of 
 marginal annotations have been transferred to the text. They 
 are enclosed in brackets. The end of each page of the original 
 record is indicated by an asterisk enclosed in brackets. In 
 other respects the transcription follows the original as faith- 
 fully as possible. 
 
 (147) 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Introduction 151 
 
 I. Journey to America, 1824-25 159 
 
 The voyage — New York — Albany — Shaker settlement at 
 Watervliet — Newburgh — Fishkill — Philadelphia — Balti- 
 more — Washington, D. C. — stagecoach through Mary- 
 land and Pennsylvania — Pittsburgh — Rapp's settlement 
 at Economy — steamboat down the Ohio — Cincinnati — 
 Louisville — Rapp's settlement at Harmonie — English 
 settlement near Albion — departure of Rappites from 
 Harmonie — recruits for Owen's community — Prince- 
 ton — Vincennes — return to Pittsburgh — stagecoach to 
 Meadville, Erie, and Buffalo — Niagara Falls — boat and 
 stagecoach to New York — Hartford — Boston — return 
 to England 
 
 II. Second Journey to America, 1825-26 307 
 
 The voyage — New York — Philadelphia — Baltimore — 
 Washington, D. C. — Charlottesville — Monticello — Har- 
 per's Ferry — return to Washington — Pittsburgh — Econ- 
 omy — Cincinnati — Louisville — Owen's New Harmony 
 Community — steamboat down the Ohio and Mississippi 
 to New Orleans — Havana — Charleston — return to Eng- 
 land 
 
 (149.) 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 When I was a little girl my grandmother (Mrs. David 
 Dale Owen) used to tell me stories. She had the very 
 modern and Pestalozzian point of view that a child should 
 never be told fairy tales. Only the scientific truth so far as it 
 was known to the narrator should be told to a child. Hence, 
 when I begged her for a story, it was always some tale of 
 New Harmony's early days that she related. She was ten years 
 old when in 1824 she was brought to New Harmony, and she 
 remembered vividly the pioneer days. 
 
 New Harmony was never a pioneer town in the ordinary 
 sense. It was inhabited by university men, writers, theorists, 
 humanitarians, and naturalists. They had come from London, 
 Edinboro', Paris, and had brought with them their scholarly 
 world. The town while it still had a good many log houses 
 had been bought outright by Robert Owen. It had large 
 public buildings of brick and stone, a church, a tavern, resi- 
 dences, all ready for the doors to be opened. 
 
 "Other towns," said my grandmother, "were founded for 
 gain or because the people were unsuccessful at home, but ours 
 was founded for an ideal — for the good of humanity." 
 
 I was very proud of this. It made me feel better than my 
 neighbor — aristocratic — a reaction which would have been 
 most undesired by Robert Owen for his little great-grand- 
 daughter. 
 
 The men of New Harmony became my heroes. No child 
 of old could have felt more inspired by King Arthur or the 
 Black Prince than I was by these brilliant persons. I almost 
 wished I could have been born in the olden time so that I 
 could have seen them. Many of them stayed in New Harmony 
 for years, long after the Social Experiment had died. They 
 pursued their lifework, left descendants, portraits of them- 
 selves so that they were easily to be pictured as part of the 
 town. 
 
 But one of them came and went like a meteor, leaving no 
 descendants nor any trace. And he was my favorite, as I 
 
 (151) 
 
152 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 think he was my grandmother's. "Young and very handsome,'' 
 she said he was (at least that was the impression I carried with 
 me), "very noble of nature and a gentleman." He was Donald 
 Macdonald, Lord of the Isles and Earl of Skye. "Others," 
 said my grandmother, "might claim that title, but he was 
 really Lord of the Isles." 
 
 The name and strange title took the fancy of the little 
 Posey County girl. I would say it over and over. Lord of the 
 Isles — what isles and how many? It sounded as though he 
 ruled all the islands of the seven seas. And Earl of Skye. 
 Of course my grandmother told me that this did not mean the 
 sky and was even spelled in a different way. But somehow 
 the arch of the azure was in it as I said the word. 
 
 As I grew older I read accounts of this Donald Macdonald 
 in Robert Dale Owen's book, Threading my Way. Macdonald 
 had come over in the same ship with Robert Owen and Robert 
 Dale Owen when they came to take possession of New Har- 
 mony in the autumn of 1825. Robert Dale Owen's anecdotes 
 were witty and romantic. In the same ship were Manuel 
 Garcia and his family, sailing to America to found the opera 
 in New York. The opera singers sometimes gave concerts on 
 the deck when the weather was good. The voyage took six 
 weeks. Plenty of time for the young people to grow well 
 acquainted. Plenty of time for Macdonald to fall in love with 
 the charming Maria Garcia. She was very young, a beautiful 
 singer even then and destined to become famous all over 
 Europe. Her father was cruel to her, making her work 
 terribly hard all through the voyage, correcting and abusing 
 her in public so that at one time the beautiful Maria fainted 
 in Robert's arms. And the Captain told Garcia that if he were 
 not more gentle with his family he would put him in irons in 
 the hold. Robert said that Macdonald was completely in love 
 with the abused heroine and wished to marry her, but the cruel 
 father, true to the romantic type, refused. 
 
 In spite of the fame that came to her, Robert felt that 
 Maria Garcia's life would have been much happier had she 
 married the fine young man Macdonald rather than Count 
 Malibran, who treated her as badly as did her father. 
 
 The Owen party arrived at New York, where they met 
 all the important folk of the city. But among those who called 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 153 
 
 upon them was a man clothed completely in green. His name 
 was Page. "I am the page of Nature," he announced. "I wear 
 her livery, as you see." He had long manuscripts which he 
 wished to read aloud, full of wild theories. The Owen party 
 discovered to their chagrin that they, with their New System 
 of Perfect Living, were being compared with him. He called 
 upon Macdonald at the City Hotel, aired his theories, and 
 pirouetted in his light green clothes. Macdonald afterward 
 said ruefully, "Are we all crazy, do you think, Robert?" 
 
 This was the last I could gather about Macdonald for some 
 years. Then, during the repairing of a house in New Har- 
 mony, the diary of William Owen was discovered between the 
 walls. 
 
 This diary was full of references to Macdonald, for he 
 seemed to have been William's special companion during the 
 earlier voyage of 1824-25 when Robert Owen's party were 
 coming out to view New r Harmony for the first time and per- 
 haps to buy it. William tells the events great and small, day 
 by day. He describes the voyage down the Ohio. Once while 
 the steamboat was laid up for the night the two young men 
 went ashore in Kentucky to join a frolic of the woodsmen. An 
 enormous pile of brush had been gathered, astonishing to the 
 eyes of the two young Scotsmen. This brush was set against 
 a magnificent tree and then lighted. William and Macdonald 
 had never seen such a conflagration. When the great tree 
 succumbed and fell, a shout of joy went up from the whole 
 party. William Owen and Macdonald from tree-starved Scot- 
 land must have thought it a terrible waste, but they enjoyed 
 the spectacle. 
 
 The Owen party made their long journey, arrived at 
 Harmony, visited the Rappites, bought the tow r n and thirty 
 thousand surrounding acres. Then Owen w r ent back to Scot- 
 land, leaving the nineteen-year-old William in charge. Mac- 
 donald joined Owen at New York and went back to Scotland. 
 
 By this time Donald Macdonald had grown clearer in my 
 mind. I was so charmed w r ith him that I put him into both 
 the books which I wrote about New Harmony. I studied about 
 the Isle of Skye everything that I could find in the encyclo- 
 pedia, s*o as to understand Macdonald better. I came across a 
 description of Duntulm, the ancestral Macdonald castle. I 
 
154 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 came to be in love with the Isle of Skye, which seemed as far 
 distant as Madagascar and as magical as the lost Atlantis. 
 
 When in 1929 I went for the first time to Europe, I carried 
 with me the hope that I might see the Isle of Skye. It was 
 hardly a hope, for I saw no way to get there — my party was 
 not going to the Isle and surely I could not travel to so remote 
 a place alone — but a wish harbored as long and as intensely as 
 this one has a curious way of being fulfilled. 
 
 Into our hotel in Geneva one day came a party of Scots to 
 meet with some of their kin just arrived from China. Very 
 happily they met, and gaily and excitedly they chatted in 
 the lobby. 
 
 My friends said, "If you are so anxious to go to Skye, 
 why don't you ask those Scottish people about it. They ought 
 to know." 
 
 I approached a lady on the edge of the circle and timidly 
 asked if she knew of any way that one could go to the Isle of 
 Skye. I shall never forget the intense blue of her eyes as she 
 looked up at me and said, "Why do you ask me about my 
 beloved home?" 
 
 "Because all my life I have wanted to go there," I an- 
 swered. 
 
 "Do you hear this?" She turned to her friends. "This 
 lady has always loved Skye and wants to go there." 
 
 Immediately she was enthusiastic about helping me. 
 
 "I will see that you get a wee roomy. Skye will be crowded 
 in July, but I will see that you get a wee roomy. And you must 
 meet my friends, so they will show you the real Skye." 
 
 Thus it was, that a few weeks later I was traveling across 
 the Highlands from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsch. From 
 there I took a boat on the Minch. It was the strangest feeling 
 of unreality — of sailing into a dream. Here was that Isle that 
 had been a dream in my mind almost ever since I could re- 
 member. But now the basalt mountains soared from the tide 
 into the clouds. Oh, far more beautiful and terrifying than 
 any imagination of them! Skye never did become anything 
 but magic to me. Did I not see a fairy lake tinged blue because 
 "the lady fairies wash their dresses in it?" Did I not see the 
 groove in the rocky shore where the viking ships had been drawn 
 up ? Did I not see Dunvegan Castle, where one of the McCleods 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 155 
 
 had married a fairy? Here was the bridge where she had said 
 goodbye to him ; here was the fairy flag she had given him ; 
 and the babies in that castle were still sung to sleep with the 
 old Gaelic tune the fairy mother had sung. 
 
 But when I asked for my Macdonald, they laughed me to 
 scorn. I must know that everyone in northern Skye was named 
 Donald Macdonald except a few Ronald Macdonalds and An- 
 gus Macdonalds. The Lord of the Isles had never gone to 
 America, neither now nor a hundred years ago. 
 
 Just as I was giving up, a kind Skye lady suggested that I 
 write to a certain Captain Alan Macdonald who lived on the 
 far flung Cape of Waternish and who was very wise in the 
 history of Skye. 
 
 This I did, but I came away feeling that I had been on a 
 very delectable fool's errand. 
 
 Some time after I reached home I received a ten-page 
 letter from Alan Macdonald telling me that he was unable to 
 find my Macdonald. A few weeks later I received a twenty- 
 page letter telling me that he had found him. 
 
 The only clue that I had been able to give Captain Mac- 
 donald was that in the 1860's two men had visited Harmony 
 who were sons of Macdonald. Their father, an old man now, 
 and living in London, had said that when they came to Amer- 
 ica they must surely visit New Harmony. They gave their 
 names and their rank in the Indian Army. From this the 
 clever genealogist-soldier of Skye had found the name and 
 rank of my Macdonald. This Macdonald had never been of 
 Skye, and, alas, was never the Lord of the Isles. He had lived 
 in Edinboro'. He was Captain Donald Macdonald of the 
 Royal Engineers, was appointed ensign on September 12, 
 1808; lieutenant, on June 24, 1809; captain, on October 20, 
 181 3. He was placed on half pay on September 28, 1824 
 (this coincides with the time when he started out on the jour- 
 ney with Robert Owen). He was in receipt of half pay until 
 the time of his death in October, 1872 — at the age of eighty- 
 one years. 
 
 Macdonald was born on September 2, 1791, near Preston- 
 pans. He served in the ill-conducted expedition to the Island 
 of Walcheren in 1809, under the Earl of Chatham. It was one 
 of the most disastrous military failures recorded in the history 
 
156 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 of Great Britain. The object was to take Antwerp and weaken 
 the French influence in Belgium, but much precious time was 
 wasted in the reduction of Flushing and in the meantime the 
 French garrison was considerably reinforced while the British 
 were carried off in hundreds by a malignant marsh fever and 
 ague. The original idea of capturing Antwerp had to be aban- 
 doned, but it was thought advisable to retain possession of 
 Walcheren in order to compel the French to maintain a large 
 force in Belgium and thus weaken their power elsewhere. 
 Accordingly, fifteen thousand men were left for that purpose. 
 But the epidemic continued its ravages and those who survived 
 had to be withdrawn quickly, many of them with their consti- 
 tutions shattered. About seven thousand soldiers perished. 
 Macdonald also served in the defense of Cadiz. 
 
 "Donald Macdonald R. E. was married to Lady Ramsey 
 Maule, by whom he had six sons." 
 
 I have quoted from my Skye informant at length because 
 these are all the facts I have about Donald Macdonald. 1 They 
 are enough to make a fairly clear picture. He was only eighteen 
 at the time he went through the dreadful fighting at Wal- 
 cheren. We do not know whether he was of the number held 
 there, but if he were, he evidently did not suffer tragically 
 from the epidemic, for there is no indication of ill health any- 
 where in the diaries. Indeed he seems to have endured a great 
 deal as a traveler. He twice walked the fifteen miles from 
 Mount Vernon to New Harmony in preference to riding the 
 baggage wagons, remarking that the trip reminded him of sol- 
 diers on the march. He was thirty-three at the time of the 
 first journey. 
 
 His diaries record two journeys to New Harmony, one in 
 1824-25 and one in 1825-26. He writes in a clear fine English 
 Macdonald supplies a little additional information in a letter of Feb- 
 ruary 16, 1826, to the Editors of the New Harmony Gazette (I, 173-74)- 
 While stationed in Edinburgh in 1821 he became interested in Robert 
 Owen s theories and in the work that he had done at New Lanark. He 
 associated himself with a small group called "The Practical Society "-out 
 of this came the Orbiston Community in Lanarkshire— and began work 
 among the families of mechanics and laborers. How he and Robert Owen 
 met does not appear, but some months later he "accompanied Mr. Owen 
 when he visited Ireland." This was in the autumn of 1822. Macdonald 
 was afterward on military duty in Ireland "for nearly two years."— Ed. 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 157 
 
 style — not too fine to be vivid. The diaries are on 122 folded 
 sheets of beautiful old paper, running in a narrow column down 
 the sheet, with room on the left-hand side for dates and 
 notes. They are written in a readable hand — with the old- 
 fashioned long letter S — hard to decipher only where a newly 
 sharpened quill pen makes the script faint and hairlike. 
 
 For long periods the record misses scarcely a day. It 
 mentions the thermometer, the weather at sea, the kind of soil 
 and the livableness of the country through which the party 
 traveled. It describes in particular every move of Robert 
 Owen, every argument on shipboard (and there were heated 
 ones!), every call in New York. There is a vivid picture of 
 that busy little city — not well paved and somewhat countrified. 
 Prominent people called at the hotel to see them ; they returned 
 the calls, evidently afoot. 
 
 The party took a boat on the Hudson and voyaged to Al- 
 bany, much annoyed by the sparks and cinders which showered 
 the deck. Macdonald was never, however, a complaining trav- 
 eler : he was too much interested in the new country and the 
 establishing of the New System. At Albany the Owenites met 
 De Witt Clinton; near Trenton, Joseph Bonaparte, at whose 
 villa they stayed; at Boston, the elder Adams; at Washington, 
 Adams the president. They dined with each, and Macdonald 
 left a good description of each. Later he described the aged 
 Thomas Jefferson. The party stayed all night at Monticello 
 because Jefferson did not think it safe for them to return after 
 dark over the mountain roads. In the early morning Mac- 
 donald walked on the heights and later he described what he 
 had seen. 
 
 During the first part of the journey the group traveled an 
 astonishing amount by water. One realizes that New York is 
 on an island, that Philadelphia is a seaport. Then came the 
 Ohio and the wilderness, the Rappite Harmonie, which they 
 examine with meticulous care. The most emotional entry in 
 the diaries covers the departure of the Rappites from their home. 
 They had built the town, they had lived there for ten years, 
 and they were leaving it forever. Weeping, praying, singing 
 choruses, the band playing appropriate music, they waved a 
 final goodbye from the steamboat as they disappeared down 
 the Wabash. "I never in my life returned home after parting 
 
158 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 with friends, with so sad a feeling as that melancholy after- 
 noon," says the poor young man of his return to the tavern 
 through the deserted town. 
 
 Then comes the year-later second journey — the long voy- 
 age and the second arrival at New York. Macdonald's account 
 is a companion piece to Robert Dale Owen's Threading my 
 Way. Macdonald called twice upon the Garcias but there is no 
 indication in the diary that he was in love with the young 
 Spanish singer. To be sure, at Washington he bought some 
 Spanish books and determined to study Spanish because it 
 was, "next to English ... the most important language in 
 the New World." One might suspect a different motive. 
 
 The party arrived the second time at New Harmony, and 
 Macdonald put into his diary a brief description of the stormy 
 founding of the Community — the daily meetings and argu- 
 ments, the forming of one Community after another to try to 
 promote peace. Macdonald was not in accord with all the pro- 
 visions of the Constitution that was finally adopted, and at last 
 severed his connection with the Owenites. "I left Harmony 
 on the 4 th . March," he says simply, "at which time a proposi- 
 tion was under discussion to request Mr. Owen to become sole 
 manager for some time. ..." 
 
 There was no word of criticism, not one note of the chagrin 
 and regret which he must have experienced after having started 
 out so hopefully as a follower of the New System, and after 
 having spent almost two years in its service. That is what I 
 call a loyal gentleman. 
 
 The remainder of the diary is, if anything, more vivid than 
 the early part. The journey down the Mississippi in flood is 
 well and scientifically described. Macdonald went to New 
 Orleans, Havana, Charleston, and thence by ship home, finish- 
 ing his story with a poem to a hawk which had alighted on 
 deck off the Scilly Isles. 
 
 So Donald Macdonald disappears from our view, though 
 his own family in Ireland doubtless have many more recol- 
 lections of him and of his long life of eighty-one years. I still 
 think it remarkable, since he left no trace in New Harmony, 
 that I should have discovered his diaries in County Carlow, 
 Ireland, through the kindness of Captain Macdonald of Skye. 
 
 Caroline Dale Snedeker 
 
JOURNEY TO AMERICA. 1824-25 
 
 At seven o'clock on the morning of the 2 nd October we 
 sailed from Liverpool for New York in the New York, 
 a ship of 520 tons, Captn. Maxwell. The wind was 
 high & against us when we came off Holyhead, and we beat 
 about with the Isle of Mann to leward of us. 
 
 The wind still contrary. We continued tacking in the 
 same situation. 
 
 The weather calm and to the east of south which enabled 
 us to lay our course down the Irish channel with little 
 wind. This evening some conversation relative to education 
 took place between the passengers & M r . Owen, in which 
 the latter supported the position that under a natural system 
 of tuition by sensible signs children in masses would at 10 
 years of age possess more useful knowledge than young 
 men at present do, on coming from college. 
 
 Early this morning we passed the Tuscan light on a small 
 island off the county of Wexford, laying our course. After 
 breakfast a long discussion took place relative to the nature 
 of M r . Owen's system. [*] The conversation was carried on 
 principally by M r . Flower, D r . Strachan, M r . Roy, & 
 M r . Wolsey. Light winds. — 
 
 Light winds from the south & rain. We lay a great part 
 of this evening & night without wind from 20 to 30 miles 
 south of Cape Clear. Conversing relative to the effect of 
 circumstances in forming the opinions & habits of society was 
 the general subject of conversation. Whist, Picket, & chess 
 the amusements; and reading German on M r . Hamilton's 
 plan, a partial occupation of two of the passengers. 
 
 Becalmed this morning to the southward of Cape 
 Clear. A northwesterly breeze sprung up this evening. 
 
 Westerly winds. M r . Owen explained the views which 
 he had relative to the best social arrangements, to unite the 
 advantages of a private and public education, of private 
 families in the country and in towns, and the employment 
 of agriculture united with manufactures. The union of 
 
 1824 
 October 2«<* 
 Saturday 
 
 Sunday 3 r <* 
 4 th 
 
 5 th 
 (5th contd.) 
 
 Wednesday 6* h . 
 
 Thursday 7 th . 
 Friday 8th. 
 
 (159) 
 
loO 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 from 600 to 2000 persons, he [*] considered capable of 
 effecting this arrangement. He added that while individual 
 property & private interests were made the groundwork of 
 social institution, mankind could never attain the degree of 
 improvement which would arise from a union of interests, by 
 which means the greatest abundance would be quickly 
 produced & by which practices the way would be opened 
 easily to give good dispositions, good habits and a great 
 extent of knowledge to every human being. D r . Stewart 
 objected that Mann was naturally corrupt & had fallen from 
 original goodness. This brought on a discussion relative to 
 the cause of Sin, which ended in D r . Stewart maintaining that 
 Deity was omnipotent, good & wise, and yet that Man made 
 himself bad. This night was squally with the wind ahead. 
 
 Saturday 9 1h - A fine morning, wind westerly. After breakfast 
 
 M r . Owen stated that the first public infant schools were com- 
 menced four or five [*] years back in London in consequence 
 of his coming before the Public with the New Views. — 
 M r . Flower showed a ground plan of his colony between 
 the Great & Little Wabash rivers. Dr. Strachan showed the 
 surveys of the School lands in Upper Canada. These lands 
 are given as a fund for the parish schools, & are divided into 
 portions of 200 acres, accompanied by the surveyor's notes, 
 who is allowed to draw for a certain number of lots in 
 payment of his labour. This evening the wind came 
 round to the North. 
 
 Sunday i&\ The wind northerly & the sea running high, in consequence 
 
 of which divine service as proposed by D rs . Steward & 
 Strachan, could not be performed. We kept our course 
 westerly going from 9 to 1 1 knots an hour. 
 
 Monday nth. Wind moderate from North east. After breakfast, 
 
 M r . Owen shewed the ground plans & elevations of the 
 community residences proposed by him. He gave some 
 papers which explain some of his views. — We passed this 
 morning the ship Dorset going east. This afternoon we 
 
 Monday 11*. spoke another ship bound to Liverpool [*] This afternoon 
 
 Continued at 6 o'clock we had prayers by D r . Stewart, who proposed 
 
 to have them every morning at 8 o'clock & every evening 
 at 6 o'clock. 
 
 Tuesday 12*. The wind easterly and fresh We kept our course 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 161. 
 
 west, going from 8 to 10 knots an hour. Our ship rolled 
 a great deal in consequence of the wind being aft & without 
 any side wind to steady it. The inconvenience attending 
 this motion during the time of meals was overcome in a 
 great measure by the table & benches being fastened to the 
 floor, and two long boxes with holes in them for glasses 
 being fixed along the middle of the table, thus securing the 
 dishes between them & leaving room outside for the plates. 
 The duty on board the ship was carried on by watches of 
 four hours each, bells at both ends of the ship being struck 
 every half hour. We breakfasted daily at 1/2 past 8, lunch- 
 eoned at 12, dined at 4 & drank tea at 7 o'clock. Our 
 passengers were M r . Flower a settler on the Wabash river, 
 and his neice Miss Ronalds, a M rs . Blackburn from Leeds 
 going [*] to her husband in New York, the Rev d . Doctors 
 Stewart & Strachan from Canada, of the established 
 church, M r . Peterson a Danish gentleman residing at 
 Charleston, Mr. Davis, Mr. Brown, Mr. Wolsey, & Mr. Mal- 
 lard, gentlemen apparently merchants, M r . Roy a Virginian 
 Proprietor M r . Day & his nephew M r . Fergusson, New York 
 Merchants, M r . Owen & his son, & myself. — I induced 
 D r . Strachan to learn German on the Hamiltonian plan, and 
 daily gave him a lesson in translating the testament from 
 that language into English. I daily took one from 
 W m . Owen in a book of German Fables. Miss Ronalds 
 who knew something of the language begged to join the 
 class, as well as D r . Strachan ultimately. M r . Owen read 
 M r . Hodgson's tour through the United States & Captain 
 Halls voyage to South America. We lived remarkably well 
 on board, the Captain having a large stock of live animals, 
 a [*] cow to give us milk, and good wines. 
 
 This morning after prayers D r . Stewart commenced an Wednesday 13th. 
 argument with M r . Owen on responsibility & Man's power 
 to change his own beliefs which was continued for a couple 
 of hours after breakfast. M r . Owen maintained that he 
 was compelled to belief as circumstances made him. 
 D r . Stewart, in which he was joined by D r . Strachan, held 
 that he could choose his belief. The argument terminated 
 by D r . Stewart agreeing to support M r . Owen's plans to 
 remove bad circumstances & introduce good ones to influ- 
 
162 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 ence Human Nature, as far as they were consistent with his 
 own opinions. — The wind came to the southward this evening. 
 
 Thursday 14 th . This morning the wind freshened up and after noon blew 
 
 a fresh gale in squalls from the South East. It fell calm in 
 the evening and suddenly sprung up from the north. This 
 morning after breakfast D r . Stewart read extracts from the 
 printed papers [*] relative to M r . Owen's first public 
 meetings in London, M r . Owen having given several copies 
 to the passengers, and a variety of comments were made 
 relative to the bold declarations therein contained concerning 
 the irrationality & universal error of Social arrangements, 
 D r . Strachan strenuously contended from Man's free agency 
 & responsibility, on the grounds that though he did not 
 create the motives of his own actions yet that he had the 
 power to investigate them and choose among many. 
 
 Friday 15th. This morning fine with a pleasant side wind from the 
 
 north. At Breakfast D r . Strachan opposed M r . Owen's 
 opinions on the ground of their tendency to destroy con- 
 science which he maintained to be an innate principle of 
 right & wrong, while M r . Owen contended that in practice 
 no two nations had the same conscience & that every human 
 
 (Friday 15th. being could be given a conscience quite [*] at variance with 
 
 Oct r Cont d ) his neighbour's. D r . Stewart read a quotation in manuscript 
 
 to explain that conscience resulted from a sincere & judicious 
 mind being enlightened. The general opinion to which the 
 company appeared to come was that Conscience was in the 
 outset of life instinctive but that this instinct might be so 
 misled in early training as to render it difficult to decide as 
 to the direction or manner in which its uninstructed nature 
 would lead us. It fell calm this evening & in the course of 
 the night a breeze sprung up from the S. E. 
 
 Saturday x6* h . The wind changed this forenoon to the northward with 
 
 heavy rain. A long conversation ensued after breakfast on 
 the question of Free Will. D r . Stewart opposed M r . Owen's 
 views because he believes Man to be a Free Agent. M r . Owen 
 endeavoured to contrast the opinions originating from such 
 a belief. He observed that [*] it appeared extremely 
 inconsistent to think that an Almighty, wise & beneficent 
 God, who was omniscient & foresaw all things, should make 
 a being who could at any time be a free agent and independ-- 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 163 
 
 ent of him. D r . Stewart thought the ideas not at all incon- 
 sistent, but did not see how that position tended to elucidate 
 his system. M r . Owen maintained that it did, as the 
 banishment of all rewards & punishments was a necessary 
 part of his practice ; and he held that it shewed how absurd 
 it was to believe that an omniscient & wise & good Deity, 
 should create beings to punishment & misery, foreseeing as 
 he did, before their birth what they would do all the days 
 of their lives. D r . Strachan still objected to M r . Owen's 
 principles, but approved of his system of communities, which 
 he thought in no way connected with them. This afternoon 
 it blew hard from the N. West, and split the fore & main 
 sails. The Night was windy. [*] 
 
 This morning fine but the wind directly against us from Sunday 17th. 
 the West. At Breakfast D r . Stewart stated that on one 
 voyage which he made, there were on board another 
 clergyman & a quaker, and while crossing the Fishing Banks 
 a question arose whether it was proper to fish on a Sunday. 
 He and the quaker were in support of the propriety of 
 it, while the Captain of the vessel & the other clergyman 
 were against it. He added that he & his friend brought 
 their opponents round, principally by the argument that 
 fish were frequently beneficial to the crew of a ship from 
 the W. Indies. At one o'clock Divine service was per- 
 formed in the Cabin, all the crew attending. The greater 
 part of the evening was spent by the passengers in read- 
 ing & conversation. 
 
 This morning the wind was blowing steadily from the Monda y l8th - 
 S. westward. After breakfast the conversation was renewed 
 relative to M r . Owen's denial of Man's Free agency. 
 D r . Stewart asked [*] a variety of questions tending to 
 elucidate his opinions, and it appeared that M r . Owen 
 considered every thing in existence to be as good as it 
 could be at present, if God were all wise, good & omnipotent. 
 [M r . Flower remarked that if every thing were perfect, 
 there could be no motive to induce any one to strive for a 
 change. M r . Owen replied that the state of things had a 
 progress from infancy to manhood like the growth of the 
 human being. The proof of things being at present in the 
 best possible state was their producing the perception of a 
 
164 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 (Monday 18 th . 
 Contd) 
 
 Tuesday 19 th . 
 
 beneficial change, which was likewise a sufficient motive 
 to produce a change.] D r . Stewart was surprised at his not 
 allowing the existence of Sin; M r . Owen allowed much to 
 be that men wished to alter and he contended that his 
 practice alone would effect the change. D r . Stewart rose & 
 maintained he could keep his eyes open or shut them. 
 M r . Owen said he could not shut them. The Doctor shut 
 his eyes & it then became evident that the cause of his 
 shutting his eyes did not evince his free will, but arose from 
 external impressions. D r . Strachan held that such opinions 
 & arguments destroyed all reasoning & the foundations of 
 right & wrong. M r . Owen replied that we should never 
 understand & know [*] the motives & causes of human 
 actions or how in practice to remove the evils we felt & com- 
 plained of, if we did not perceive that Man was necessarily 
 compelled to think feel & act as he did, and adopted the 
 practice towards human nature which such perception would 
 suggest. The evening was passed at cards & chess, & read- 
 ing. I finished Hodgson's Tour through the U. States & 
 began Capt n . Hall's voyage to Chili. We were all this 
 day on the Banks & passed one Brig. 
 
 This morning the wind came from the Northward and 
 we kept our course over the Bank with a light wind. We 
 saw a Brig at a distance. After breakfast conversing on 
 the subject of the advantages of Union, M r . Flower 
 expressed a fear that mankind would not be contented in 
 communities. It was remarked that Pride of Heart made 
 men restless, & that this was in consequence of a belief in 
 individual merit — [*] The Duke of Wellington who had 
 risen higher in distinction than any one of his day was 
 restless, and more subject to discontent than persons who 
 had remained in obscurity. M r . Flower did not consider 
 him a distinguished man beyond the limits of a military 
 view, and thought that his permitting in silence the treaty 
 of Paris, which secured the lives of the supporters of 
 Bounaparte, to be violated in the execution of Marshall Ney 
 would be a blot on his character sufficient to obscure his 
 excellencies in the eyes of the admirers of social liberty & se- 
 curity. No man of sense or prudence would ever trust his 
 life or fortune to the word of a man who in the face of the 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 165 
 
 world had once so glaringly broken it. — After breakfast the 
 Captain was sorting the Bags of letters for the U. States — 
 During tea this evening some remarks were made relative 
 to smuggling in the United States, and it appeared to be 
 the opinion [*] of some of the company that it is carried 
 to a less extent in North America & considered more dis- 
 repatable than in Great Britain. While we must acknowledge 
 that it is wrong & prejudicial to the tranquility & morals of 
 society to transgress the laws of a country, yet we may 
 question the wisdom of any laws which are found at all 
 times at variance with apparently very general & innocent 
 inclinations. There is not a country a Traveller returns 
 from with a commodity either prohibited or oppressed by 
 a high duty, which is not badly governed when a free 
 exchange of productions is prevented. This afternoon being- 
 calm, fishing lines were let down in above 30 fathoms 
 water, & in less than 5 minutes some fine & large cod were 
 caught. The night was squally and rainy, wind southerly 
 with lightening. For a few seconds previous to a heavy 
 shower a bright ignis fatuus like [*] a lanthorn appeared at 
 the end of the Main Top Gallant yard to lighten our darkness. 
 
 This morning the wind was northerly blowing a pleasant Wednesday 20* 
 breeze with flying clouds. The conversation at breakfast 
 related to Sir John Malcolm's account of Central India, by 
 which it appeared that the Hindoos experienced many 
 advantages from living in villages united in many respects 
 as if each village were but one family. M r . Flower censured 
 the establishment of the Holy Alliance. D rs . Stewart & 
 Strachan & M r . Owen considered that it had its good effect 
 in causing security in the mean time while the population of 
 Europe had time to study the subject of liberty and learn 
 to understand its nature with which they were not yet 
 sufficiently acquainted in order to be able to apply the 
 theory in practice. — [*] 
 
 In the afternoon it fell calm and so continued until early on 
 the morning of Thursday 21 st. 
 
 when a S.E. wind gradually arose till it blew us along at the 
 rate of 8 or 9 knots an hour. After breakfast M r . Owen 
 read to the company an extract of M r . Thompson's work on 
 the Distribution of Wealth in which he explains the System 
 
166 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Thursday 21 s *. 
 Contd) 
 
 Friday 22 n d. 
 
 Saturday 23* 
 Latitude 
 40° -22' 
 Longitude 
 60 & a half. 
 
 (Saturday 23rd. 
 Cont<3.) 
 
 Sunday 24 th . 
 
 of Union in Communities. I read some of Capt n . Hall's 
 account of Lima, and remarked that the custom of the 
 Ladies drawing a black hood over the head, face shoulders 
 & arms, when they went abroad was exactly similar to that 
 of the Tarifa Ladies on the shores of the Straits of Gibral- 
 tar. — This custom seems thus to be traced to the Moors, but 
 why it should only remain in one town in the Old Country 
 & be carried to but one city & that the Capital of the New, 
 is not so easily accounted for. [*] This evening the wind 
 came round again to the West. — 
 
 A westerly wind prevaild the whole of this day. In the 
 evening during a conversation on the expences of govern- 
 ment D r . Strachan maintained that the U. States were fully 
 as expensively governed as the British Dominions. This 
 subject was continued after breakfast on the following day, 
 when M r . Owen took occasion to refer to his plan presented 
 to a Committee of the House of Commons for employing 
 and educating the Irish labouring classes. In reply to some 
 remarks from D r . Stewart with respect to the little progress 
 he had as yet made, he stated that the Higher ranks & rich 
 were opposed from seeing the great changes which it would 
 lead to & not being equally sensible of the benefits they 
 themselves would reap. Then, said the Doctor, America is 
 your place and we will support you as far as our principles 
 will lead us. This day the wind was [*] blowing steadily 
 & briskly from the West. About 1 1 oclock a. m. we were 
 in the Gulf stream, the sea water being at 74 degrees of 
 temperature ; we therefore tacked & stood to the N. West, to 
 get out of the Gulf stream which runs eastward. The day 
 was warm & fine though the clouds looked stormy. In the 
 afternoon a sudden thunder storm with violent squalls 
 came on from the N. West and a hard cold [wind] 
 continued blowing all night. 
 
 About 10 o'clock this morning the wind encreased & con- 
 tinued blowing with very great violence for some hours. The 
 sea ran extremely high & was frequently carried in clouds 
 along the surface by the squalls. The ship lay too under 
 a storm stay sail and close reefed fore sail, and drifted 
 considerably to leeward though few seas were shipped. Many 
 of the passengers remained in the round house occasionally 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 167 
 
 going out on deck to admire the movements of the troubled 
 elements. D rs . Stewart & Strachan performed [*] Divine 
 service in the cabin to the Passengers, & D r . Strachan 
 preached on contentment. In the evening the wind 
 moderated & took down the sea at the same time. During 
 the day many of the little dark feathered birds followed 
 in the wake of the ship. I observed that they frequently 
 resisted the violence of the storm by resting for a second or 
 two on the surface of the water in the hollow seas. Our ship 
 proved an excellent sea boat, riding easily on the waves and 
 with comparatively slight motion rising over their curl- 
 ing & foaming tops. 
 
 This morning the wind shifted to the N. N. West, and Monday 25th. 
 the [ship] was tacked & stood nearly west. The temperature 
 of the sea was found to be 66°. In the course of conversa- 
 tion at & after breakfast, the Captain mentioned that the 
 sea serpent was believed to exist, for [*] two clergymen & (Monday 25th. 
 several respectable persons had given their affidavits of Cont ) 
 having seen it. Light winds this evening. 
 
 The wind continued northerly all this day. In the Tuesday 26th. 
 evening it being calm we had a little dance upon deck, the 
 cook of the ship, styled Doctor, was our musician. After 
 tea American Politics were the subject of conversation. 
 Some of the Passengers contended that it was injudicious 
 in the President to assume in his last Message to Congress 
 that the Nations of the Western Continents would not suffer 
 any European interference in their proceedings. To this 
 it was replied that it rather seemed a fine manly step as 
 First ruler of the Oldest Independent Power to speak 
 openly, to express his real sentiments derived from the most 
 extensive information and to nourish [*] liberal sentiments (Tuesday 26th, 
 in place of those which characterise the governments of Cont<*) 
 Europe. By such plain proceedings he w r ould lead the way 
 to a close union between all the Nations of the two 
 Americas, and it did not seem absurd to declare that the 
 United States, Mexico, Columbia, Peru, Chili and Beunos 
 Ayres, would not in future consider any portion of those 
 continents subject to colonization by European Powers as 
 formerly. — About midnight we w 7 ere going 9 knots an hour 
 before a southerlv wind. — 
 
168 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Wednesday 27th. 
 
 (Wednesday 28*. 
 [27th] Contd) 
 
 Thursday 28 th . 
 
 (Thursday 28*. 
 Contd) 
 
 The wind increased this morning and we some times 
 advanced at the rate of 12 knots. The temperature of the 
 atmosphere was 66°. The ship rolled so much that we 
 shipped seas on both sides. In the Ladies' cabin a sofa [*] 
 upon which two ladies and two gentlemen were sitting, gave 
 way, upset a table, breaking it in pieces and throwing the 
 ladies & gentlemen violently to the ground. In the evening 
 it calmed, and the wind gradually went round to the North. 
 
 This morning was beautiful, and during the forenoon 
 a wind sprung up from the South West, which enabled us 
 to steer our course nearly. Our latitude was 40 -5 5' and 
 longitude 66°-3o\ — After breakfast a religious discussion 
 was commenced by D r . Stewart, and he on his own 
 offer read to me two chapters from the works of 
 Bishop [MS blank], being the introduction to a treatise 
 upon the Truth of the Bible and intended to shew that if 
 a candid inquirer after [*] Truth were not convinced of 
 the authenticity of the Old & New Testaments by the amount 
 of Evidence in its support, no proof of any historical facts 
 could ever be handed down. Mr. Owen replied to the Doctor 
 that the Bishop seemed unacquainted with Human Nature, 
 which could not help believing the strongest evidence ; that 
 failing conviction, the individual evidently had not sufficient 
 evidence before his mind. He continued that Young Persons 
 were all over the world taught every variety of doctrine, and 
 when grown up were in a state of mind which unfitted them 
 for judging equally from the same evidence. Hence he 
 argued the inconsistency of resting so much upon the Merit 
 of belief, as [*] that depended upon early instruction and 
 the force of evidence. The Doctors did not see the justness 
 of this reasoning. I remarked to D**. Stewart that the truth 
 of Histories of Natural events might be estimated by the 
 amount of evidence ; but that those which related miracles, 
 mysteries, & supernatural concerns, would not be rendered 
 the more credible from the encrease of similar evidence. Of 
 course the natural events of those histories would in 
 proportion to the quantum of good evidence be more 
 authentic, but the supernatural occurences and statements 
 would always require supernatural evidence for every person 
 in every age. as well as explanation. Failing such evidence 
 
MACDOXALD DIARIES 
 
 169 
 
 belief would be a sort of infatuation of which some minds 
 are more susceptible than others. [*] M r . Owen observed 
 that he considered the value of discussion to be for the 
 purpose of acquiring information & for improvement; he 
 held the Bible to contain the most valuable practical precepts, 
 and he was always desirous that every one should be left in 
 full enjoyment of his conscientious opinions while all united 
 to carry into effect the parts in which all were agreed. He 
 rather wished to bring into notice & examination a new 
 combination of advantageous practices, than to continue the 
 worn out method of contesting points of Faith. The Doctors 
 cordially agreed with him. M r . Owen shewed a tartan dress 
 such as the boys at New Lanark wear. D r . Stewart 
 questioned the advantage of very little [*] dress, upon 
 which a discussion took place that shewed persons lightly 
 clad from infancy to be much healthier, stronger & less 
 susceptible of cold. M r . Owen remarked that hitherto 
 Society had never investigated in a practical manner, the 
 questions what are the best food, clothing, and domestic 
 arrangements. D r . Strachan exclaimed that this was going 
 too far, and becoming rather too practical. — The wind 
 came round this evening to the N. West. 
 
 This morning the wind was easterly and the weather 
 fine. D r . Stewart returned M r . Owen the copy of his son's 
 outline of the Instruction given in the Lanark schools, and 
 observed upon the passages where it was stated that the 
 children had no emulation & were only taught what they 
 could understand, that many things must be taught them 
 before their minds [*] could estimate them, and that it 
 was too nice a distinction to say that children would be 
 emulous advancing in knowledge in company of their 
 comrades and not out stripping them. M r . Owen replied 
 that we should state in a clear manner facts which the minds 
 of children would percieve like ourselves though they could 
 not further explain them : and that the fact at New Lanark 
 was, that children being instructed from the first without 
 praising or blaming, rewarding or punishing them, but 
 merely by kind behaviour and caressing them all; had no 
 emulation to surpass their comrades, but only an active 
 desire to acquire information & by mutual aid a communica- 
 
 ( Thursday 28^. 
 cont d .) 
 
 (Thursday 28 th . 
 cont d ) 
 
 Friday 29 
 
 th 
 
 Friday 30 th . 
 [29th] cont d ) 
 
170 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 (Friday 29 th . 
 cont<*. ) 
 
 Saturday 30 th . 
 
 (Saturday 30 th . 
 contd. ) 
 
 (Saturday 30 th . 
 contd) 
 
 tion of ideas to keep together, the quick & clever delighting 
 to assist the dull & slow. — [*] After breakfast M r . Owen 
 shewed a tartan dress such as the girls at New Lanark 
 wear. It was made to come lower down the legs than that 
 for the boys. The Doctors were much pleased with it, and 
 wished to have the pattern. In the evening we had a dance 
 in the Ladies Cabin. 
 
 This morning we were standing West by south with 
 a N. westerly wind. The day was dry & cold, and the 
 atmosphere extremely clear. We spoke a small vessel from 
 the State of Maine bound to Charleston. Long. y\°-^ 
 Lat. 39.25. — After breakfast there was a short discussion 
 on the subject of baptism, in which M r . Flower argued that 
 it was at no age required for the children of Christians, as 
 they are born in the spirit, whereas in the early age of 
 Christianity & in the [*] Heathen nations, a public solemn 
 ceremony was necessary to separate and permanently fix the 
 condition of the converted. — In the evening we had a 
 dance, which proved good exercise, agreeable in the cold 
 frosty feel of the air, and particularly amusing, it being 
 somewhat difficult to dance in a ship in motion. Conversing 
 with M r . Brown I found that he had travelled a good 
 deal. He informed me that there is very little difficulty in 
 getting into Society in the U. States, as the Americans are 
 extremely glad to meet with foreigners. He travelled 
 through Ohio & Kentucky in the middle of winter, and 
 though it was very cold and from the snow being on the 
 ground a bad time to see the country, he found [*] no 
 difficulty in getting along. In Ohio you can always find 
 good fare and a night's lodging every 5 or 10 miles & at 
 a moderate expense. Lexington the capital of Kentucky 
 is situated in one of the most beautiful & fertile parts of the 
 States, and there he said he visited some time and found a 
 great deal of agreeable & polished Society. In Charleston 
 the best Society is considered the most refined of the whole 
 of the Union. In Washington he recommended our being 
 at the Inauguration of the New President on the 4 th . March, 
 and a few days before in order to attend some of the 
 debates. During the sitting of Congress, members bring 
 up their families, live [in] large hotels and keep much 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 171 
 
 company. Batchelors [*] live in boarding houses, where (Saturday 30^. 
 are sometimes to be met a dozen of the cleverest members Contd.) 
 of Congress & judges from the distant States. — M r . Brown's 
 father is a rich merchant in Providence in the State of 
 Rhode Island. — M r . Roy a Virginian gentleman was 
 describing to me the state of society in his state. General 
 Washington, M r . Jefferson, M r . Madison, & a few others, he 
 described as having fine estates and living in a superior 
 manner. At Salem there is a interesting Moravian Estab- 
 lishment. — M r . Day a New York Merchant described to me 
 the direction of the ranges of the Alleghany & Blue moun- 
 tains, the latter being a smaller ridge running parallel to the 
 former on the Eastern side from the Northern limits of 
 N. Carolina up into the States of New York [*] Vermont & (Saturday 30*. 
 New Hampshire being cut through by several rivers, rising nt •' 
 in the Alleghany, & running through the intervening 
 valleys. These abrupt openings and valleys he described 
 as rich and romantic. 
 
 This morning the wind was N. West, the air mild & Sunday 31 st . 
 clear, and the clouds having a character peculiar to this side 
 of the Atlantic. M r . Owen believed the distance seen, to 
 be perceptibly greater than he had observed at home. At 
 one o'clock we had Divine service in the cabin. D r . Stewart 
 preached a sermon with much feeling & earnestness. The 
 afternoon was extremely calm & the atmosphere mild & clear. 
 From the deck of a vessel at sea the eye of an observer is 
 elevated from 10 to 15 ft. above the water, and from the 
 medium height [*] of 12 1/2 ft. he can in calm weather see (Sunday 31st. 
 about 4 3/4 miles every way; but In rough weather this contd.) 
 extent is shortened by the elevation of the waves hiding the 
 horizon. On land we are apt to imagine that when mariners 
 are out of sight of land they see around them an immense 
 expanse of ocean, whereas the view is limited to a circle 
 whose diameter rarely exceeds 10 miles when no vessel is 
 in sight. — Conversing with M r . Roy, he mentioned the name 
 of an old gentleman of the name of Divers residing near 
 Richmond, who keeps the best establishment in the State of 
 Virginia. He mentioned that the Judges of the Supreme 
 court are for the most part simple & unassuming men; 
 Chief Judge Marshall frequently travelling on horseback by 
 
172 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 (Sunday 31 st . 
 cont d .) 
 
 (Sunday 31 st . 
 Contd) 
 
 Monday 
 Nov r . 1 £t. 
 
 Tuesday 2»d. 
 
 ( Tuesday 2 U ^ 
 eont d .) 
 
 himself with saddlebags. Passing an inn on the [*] road- 
 side, the hostler called to him Well Master Marshal wont 
 you alight & take refreshment. He stopt his horse and 
 asking a few familiar questions added, I believe Jack I must 
 make haste on to my destination. After dinner Mr. Flower 
 entered into discussion relative to the principles & views of 
 the English Radicals, and argued that since the time of their 
 disturbances the government had adopted many of their 
 propositions. It is true that there were many changes 
 required & improvements to be made, which the radicals 
 could in many respects trace out as well as their oponents, 
 but the feeling with which they advocated them, and the 
 manner in which they proposed to effect them, tended to 
 disgust the most enlightened & amiable characters; for it 
 is the most difficult & injurious method to reform by 
 censuring, abusing and punishing [*] one's opponents. 
 
 This morning the wind was N. West. Bottom was 
 found with 40 fathoms. In the course of the afternoon 
 M r . Wolsey read to me part of a German tale called Mimili. 
 In the evening we danced & played at chess. The wind 
 continued from the same quarter, and the night was 
 beautifully calm. During the last two or three days we had 
 several small birds & two owls at different times about the 
 ship. The lead was often heaved, & at night we were in 20 
 fathoms and 60 miles to the southward of Sandy Hook. 
 
 This morning we were favored with a gentle southerly 
 breeze & stood for Port N. N. W by compass, expecting 
 soon in the day to behold land. This [*] was the topic of 
 conversation at breakfast, and the sensations experienced 
 when coming in sight of New York. Some of the passengers 
 well acquainted with that place, compared its bay to that of 
 Naples, and spoke of the animating thoughts which the first 
 sight of the New World, the nursery of independence would 
 naturally give rise to ; while others recurred to the historical 
 events of the ancient kingdoms of the world, in which the 
 first principles of every science Religious, Moral & Political, 
 came into being, and where the first heroes, legislators, 
 philosophers, and artists were born, — in short where were to 
 be found the oldest remains & records of whatever we most 
 admire & value. After breakfast D r . Stewart called the 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 173 
 
 attention of the gentlemen Passengers (14 in number) [*] to (Tuesday 2^. 
 the consideration of a remuneration to the Steward, & cont •) 
 Cook & their assistants. It was decided that M r . Day should 
 be requested to be treasurer, and receive 30 s . from each, & 
 divide the whole thus, 13-4 to Stewart, 6-8 to his ass*., 6-8 to 
 Cook, 3-4 to his d°. It was further agreed to give the 
 Captain a dinner at the City Hotel, the day after our landing 
 at 5 o'clock, Air. Owen in the chair & M r . Roy vice Presi- 
 dent. A committee of three consisting of M r . Brown, 
 Davis & Mallard, were chosen to order the dinner. — The 
 two reverend clergymen to invite the Captain. — The weather 
 was extremely mild, and the sea quite smooth. While we 
 glided through the water with imperceptible motion at the 
 rate of from 7 to 9 knots an hour, we came in sight of four 
 or five vessels. About 11 o'clock we saw land from the 
 deck, a long low streak [*] of wooded land on the western Tuesday 2^ 
 horizon. While we were rising the land the passengers cont ' 
 stood on deck observing the coast we were approaching, 
 which proved to be the woodlands and never sink point near 
 the lighthouse at Sandy Hook. These shores are covered 
 with fir trees, at this season, looking brown, and resembles 
 the views of the scenery of the islands in the South Seas as 
 pictured in the works published by Emigrants. M r . Owen 
 looked with delight upon the New World considering it the 
 field for great improvements in Society; & M r . Flower 
 viewed it as the nursery of independence. I could not 
 wander far in the delightful regions of fancy ; for my 
 recollections of its history always led me to the expectation 
 of seeing, Society much as I had seen at home; habits, 
 dress, language, & customs, nearly the same in the Union as 
 in Great Britain. — About two o'clock being in sight of 
 Sandy-hook lighthouse, signal was hoisted for a pilot who 
 came on board about four o'clock. From him we got two 
 New York Papers, giving an [*] account of General Tuesday 2«d 
 La Fayette's visit to the tomb of Washington, and a report contd - 
 of Bolivar's having gained a victory over Canterac. The 
 election of governor of the State of New York was going 
 on, and the last day tomorrow. The yellow fever had been 
 severe at Charleston & Savannah. — Soon after the pilot 
 came on board the wind came to the N. West, and we were 
 
174 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 obliged to anchor in the mouth of the channel. Four of the 
 passengers determined to go up to town in the Pilot 
 boat. New York is 20 miles above the Hook. The Captain 
 sent his Papers by the boat. — We learnt that the Diamond 
 merchant ship which had left Liverpool with us, had not 
 arrived; nor the Packet which sailed the week before. — At 
 night it blew very hard. — 
 Wednesday 3rd. This morning the wind was blowing hard from the same 
 
 quarter, directly in our teeth. — About 12 o'clock the tide 
 (Wednesday 3«d being favorable the ship was got [*] under weigh and we 
 contd.) passed the Hook, and after several tacks passed the 
 
 shoals & anchored on the western side of New York Bay 
 opposite to Fort La Fayette. The evening was extremely 
 clear & fine though cold, the shores were covered with pine 
 wood, and a few small houses; the land looked rather 
 poor, consisting of ridges of low hills. 
 Thursday 4th. About 6 o'clock this morning we were again under 
 
 way. The morning was calm and clear, the thermometer 
 standing at 31 after the Sun had risen far above the 
 horizon. A gentle breeze aided the flood tide, and carried 
 us up the bay. On our right lay Staten Island, a low hilly 
 isle covered with firs. We had the quarantine ground & 
 Hospital pointed out to us ; as likewise a square stone house 
 on the projecting point, belonging to the Vice President. It 
 stood in a bleak situation without trees, and inclosed within 
 (Thursday 4 th a a formal wall. Further on [*] lay a small island with a 
 contd -) fort upon it. To our right was Long Island and governor's 
 
 Isle with a square fort upon it. As we approached the City 
 we beheld the Battery, a public walk so called, extending 
 across the point of land which divides the Bay, and separates 
 the Hudson from East river. Numerous vessels lay along 
 the wharfs, of all sizes & descriptions, and steam & harbor- 
 boats were crossing & re-crossing from the city to Long 
 Island. The shores of this Island immediately opposite to 
 the City are hilly, and in order to prevent a bombardment 
 during the last war a line of defence inclosing the hills was 
 constructed at which the population worked. We were along 
 the wharf about 9 o'clock. As soon as the ship was 
 fixed, we landed and proceeded to the City hotel. The town 
 at this hour was in considerable bustle. The streets are 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 175 
 
 rather narrow, and the houses of red brick with very high 
 
 roofs, though of small dimensions. We next went to the 
 
 custom house a new building [*] or at least one which they (Thursday 4^ 
 
 were enlarging. Two statements of the articles composing contd ) 
 
 our baggage, with a form of oath were made out, which 
 
 we signed & swore to, and then received an order to land 
 
 them. The Building appeared small & of plain materials ; and 
 
 all the persons in it seemed as though they were of the same 
 
 rank. Business seemed to go on quietly & civilly. Our 
 
 concerns were finished there in about an hour, and at the 
 
 cost of 75 cents each. — We then returned to the ship, opened 
 
 our trunks which were slightly looked over & passed, and 
 
 thence brought them in carts to the Inn. One box belonging 
 
 to Mr. Owen, containing a few books relative to his 
 
 views, and some drawings were stopped. [*] 
 
 M r . Owen went to the custom house & got an order to (Thursday 4th 
 have the box sent to the Public Store, where he attended and Novr - Contd > 
 after a great deal of trouble & delay, got it passed upon 
 payment of a few shillings duty upon the books. — Orders 
 had been given for the Dinner to be given to our Captain 
 at the Hotel at 5 o'clock ; Previous to which we looked over 
 some papers & a pamphlet, which had been given to 
 Mr. Owen in the custom house, by a Quaker Dr. president 
 of a small society established for the purpose of forming 
 Communities. The President invited Mr. Owen to one of 
 their meetings at 8 o'clock in the Evening, and promised to 
 call for him. While passing his baggage out of the ship, a 
 Mr. Page introduced himself to Mr. Owen and gave him [*] 
 some papers, respecting rules for a community & his petition 
 to Congress for lands to establish it on. — After reading 
 these papers, we walked to the Battery, a fine shady walk 
 overlooking the Bay, and along Greenwich Street. I 
 remarked that no one put Mr. before his name on his 
 door. The houses look clean outside, and being built of red 
 brick very smart; but the street pavement is irregular & not 
 properly swept. There is a decidedly smart, quick man- 
 ner & appearance among the people, and the females 
 particularly. — Our dinner was well served, by quick waiters, 
 though they were riot what we should at home consider neat 
 in their dress. The dishes contained every sort of game. & 
 
176 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 fine venison but being all put on the table at once overloaded 
 it and were cold before they could be tasted. Our party 
 was very sociable, [*] but I left it at 8 o'clock with 
 Mr. Owen, his son & Mr. Flower, to accompany the 
 President of the commonwealth Society as they call 
 themselves to their meeting room in a private house, where 
 we found about a dozen middle aged persons almost all 
 quakers. A short conversation took place in which Mr. Owen 
 was informed that they had formed themselves into a society 
 for the purpose of establishing themselves in communities 
 when their funds might permit. Mr. Owen asked whether 
 any of the leading people favored them. The President 
 replied that on the contrary, they discountenanced the idea 
 of communities, and one of his friends had written a long 
 letter against them. He added that M r . Jefferson favored 
 them in a confined manner, as the Harmonists, Mora- 
 vians, &c, but opposed the idea as a state proceeding. 
 Mr. Flower stated that he had visited New Lanark & been 
 much delighted, and that Mr. Owen was on his way [*] to 
 visit the back settlements. M r . Owen hoped that on his 
 return, he should be able to give them more precise & useful 
 information. We then wished them success & returned 
 to our Inn. 
 Friday 5*. Nov'-. We went at 1/2 past 8 to breakfast at Griscomb's a 
 
 quaker, in Grand street, who had been visiting Mr. Owen's & 
 published some account of it in a work entitled a year in 
 Europe. We walked along Broad Way. The weather had 
 quite changed from a cold frosty N. West wind to a South 
 Easterly warm breeze with rajn. There are trees here & 
 there along the street & some large handsome houses, and 
 two fine churches which give a pleasing appearance to this 
 part of the City. — At Griscombs we met Harvey the son 
 of a Limerick Quaker, & Collins brother of a quakeress 
 who interests herself much about schools. Miss Griscomb 
 (Friday 5*. was frank in her manner, & intelligent.— [*] After breakfast 
 
 Nov. contd.) an elderly quaker came in, and we set out with him to see 
 some of the schools. The first was a large building 
 belonging to the Female Association which educates 
 about 600 poor girls at an annual cost of from $1500 
 to $1800. The children were very clean & seemed to be 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 177 
 
 kindly treated. In the upper room we found a large school 
 of boys of colour belonging to the Manumission Society 
 established 25 years back. The teacher said that he thought 
 he found the darker the colour of the skin, the cleverer the 
 children. Among them we remarked some with straight 
 black hair. These we were told were of N. American 
 Indian Parents. — They went through their lessons in 
 accounts & geography with great quickness. From thence 
 we went to one of the Schools belonging to the New York 
 Association. This consisted of two floors 90 ft. by 45 ; the 
 upper for boys & [*] the lower for girls. There are seven (Friday s&. 
 of these free schools in this city. The children are all taught Nov. cont<*. ) 
 geography. — On our way from this school we passed a large 
 building three stories high, which M r . Griscomb informed 
 us the Society of Friends were erecting for a school in 
 which he was to take an active part as teacher. — It was 
 settled that about 11 o'clock tomorrow M r . Owen was to 
 meet a dozen of the Intelligent & Philanthropic gentlemen 
 of the city, at the Infirmary. — We then returned to the 
 Hotel, & after looking over some of his letters of Intro- 
 duction M r . Owen went out with M r . Griscomb to deliver 
 them. — He received two letters from Hunter the American 
 Indian, stating that he was confined at Philadelphia by ill 
 health, and was longing to see him. William Owen wrote 
 to say that we hoped to be with him in three or four 
 days. Our dinner [*] yesterday cost $5 — 14 cents each. (Friday 5 th . 
 Mr. Owen called on Mr. Ludlow in Warren St. and Novr ' contd) 
 M r . Charles King Editor of the New York Evening Post 
 and son of Rufus King who was once ambassador in 
 England. From thence he went and saw Judge Irvine at 
 the City Hall. — We dined at three o'clock at the Table 
 D'Hote where from 50 to 80 persons, principally merchants, 
 sat down to a good dinner provided with a variety of 
 game. After dinner we called on M r . Flower at a Boarding 
 House near the hotel. He had arranged to set off the next 
 morning at 6 oclock in the Steam boat for Philadelphia. We 
 met a M r . Sampson there. On our return at 6 o'clock we 
 found tea on the table. After tea Mr. Owen wrote to 
 Hunter & Dr. Price's father, & William Owen & myself 
 went to the theatre. The house is of moderate size, and 
 
178 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 (Friday 5 th 
 Nov r . cont d .) 
 
 (Saturday 6 th . 
 Nov r .) 
 
 Saturday 6 th . 
 cont d . 
 
 (Saturday 6 th 
 contd) 
 
 plainly fitted up. The majority of the company of players 
 are English. The performance was indifferent [*] and as 
 the house was almost empty we had but little opportunity of 
 observing the inhabitants of the City who are in the habit of 
 frequenting theatres. At the city hotel supper is on the 
 table from 9 to 1 1 o'clock. 
 
 Breakfast is on the table every morning from 8 till 10. A 
 bell rings half an hour before and at 8 o'clock. After 
 breakfast we went to M r . Day's counting house to change 
 our money which I shall describe hereafter. We were 
 introduced to his Partner, and told to have our English 
 letters ready by nine on Monday morning. We met 
 M r . Brown & Wolsey, & engaged to go to what is called a 
 Game dinner, at which is served every sort of American 
 game, at Syke's. Between 10 & 11 we went to M r . Bayard & 
 C°. with M r . Peterson. Mr. Owen had a letter for 
 him. — At 1 1 o'clock we went to the City Hospital where [*] 
 in the governor's room M r . Owen shewed his Plans 
 and gave a short statement of his views to Judge Irvine, 
 Dr. Hosack, Mr. Charles King, M r . Dwight, Mr. Morse, and 
 friends Eddy, Griscom, Collins, and another old man. Friend 
 Thomas Eddey questioned relative to religious instruction 
 to orphans, & M r . Dwight relative to the state of religion 
 at New Lanark. — D r . Hosack who is President of the 
 College of Medicine, invited M r . Owen and his son & myself 
 to his literary society which meets from 7 till 10 every 
 Saturday evening. — M r . Morse is Editor of the New York 
 Observer, and M r . Dwight has a paper at Boston. — On our 
 return we were much pleased with the fineness of the 
 day, lively scenery, and smart females, in Broad Way. Many 
 old Dutch customs still subsist, and I remarked a great deal 
 of Spanish costume. — We next called at the custom house, 
 and sat for a few minutes with M r . Ferguson [*] of the 
 Naval branch of the Establishment. He is a pleasing 
 middle-aged man, and seemed interested with M r . Owen. — 
 We called again on M r . Ludlow, but missed him, as he had 
 called at the Hotel while we were out. We then went to the 
 City Hall, as M r . Owen had a letter for Judge Edwards, but 
 he was out of town. We met Judge Irvine who politely 
 shewed us the building built of grey marble brought down 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 179 
 
 Hudson river. The large room was covered with Portraits 
 of the Mayors of the City, and several Military & Naval 
 officers who had distinguished themselves during the late 
 war. I remarked one of General Jackson. The fringes of 
 the window hangings were ornamented with Eagles & stars. 
 Another chamber was the City Council room, handsomely 
 and conveniently arranged. There we saw four fine por- 
 traits of Washington, Clinton, Hamilton & Clay. [This 
 Clinton was a revoluy general & uncle of the present 
 De Wit Clinton.] Washington's countenance displayed 
 mildness & intelligence. From the top of the building [*] we 
 had a good view of the City. To the South lies the 
 bay; East, the Sound & Long Island, West, The North or 
 Hudson's river with its wooded & rocky banks ; — and 
 North, an extent of low country. The town looked well, and 
 the church spires handsome. I remarked a horizontal 
 windmill & was informed that there are 3 or 4 in the 
 City. As we were rather late, we gave up going to 
 Syke's & at 3 dined at the Table d'Hote. After dinner the 
 general conversation seemed to be about the Elections. — Be- 
 tween four & five a M r . Woodridge from a Deaf & Dumb 
 Institution at Hartford called with a letter to M r . Owen 
 from M r . Goodridge. He stated he was proceeding to 
 Europe to visit the various Establishments for Education 
 previous to continuing his labours in some new works on 
 that subject which he is publishing. He gave M r . Owen 
 a copy of his work. [He afterwards sent M r . Owen an 
 Atlas & a work on geography. M r . Owen gave him names 
 of persons to call upon in England. He sailed in the 
 Liverpool packet on the 8 th .] M r . Dufief the teacher of 
 french [*] on a new system called. He had been at Saturday 6^. 
 New Lanark. He said that he thought M r . Owen would cont<*. 
 find the Americans difficult to regulate or confine to any 
 system, as they were fond of roving, and might be called 
 a migratory race. At five o'clock a M r . Houston called & 
 took M r . Owen to see D r . Mitchell a very scientific & singu- 
 lar character. — A M r . Grut who had kept a store in the 
 State of Ohio called & gave us a long account of New 
 Harmony where [he] had often been. — Between 8 & 9 
 o'clock we went to D r . Hosack's soiree, where we met 
 
180 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Saturday 6* h 
 cont d . 
 
 Sunday 7 th . 
 
 Monday 8 th . 
 
 Mrs. Rush wife of D*\ Rush of Philadelphia the brother 
 of the Envoy, his sons & daughters and about twenty of the 
 principal people of New York. M r . Owen at their request 
 sent for his Plans & gave some [*] explanation of 
 them. Several questions were put to him by a M r . Colden 
 one of this State's Public men, relative to the ambition & 
 restlessness of Man; D r . Hosack asked laughing whether 
 M r . Owen did not intend to do away with his Profession. 
 Among the company were the Rev^. M r . Wainwright, 
 D r . Harris, Professor Griscomb, & other Professors of the 
 College. I was received with much attention as I was 
 acquainted with Captain Sabine R. A who staid in this town 
 for some time. The Party broke up at to o'clock. 
 
 Before Breakfast we began some letters to go by the 
 Packet. [M r . Baldwin & M r . Bird a lawyer married to a 
 french woman whom he has left in France, took us after 
 Breakfast through the house, into the Ball & concert 
 rooms, and to the top of the house, whence we had an 
 extensive view.] At ten o'clock Mr. Day & M r . Ludlow 
 called. M r . Owen went to Trinity church with Mr. Ludlow, 
 and W. Owen and [*] myself accompanied M r . Day to 
 Grace church, considered the most fashionable in New York. 
 I remarked that the congregation were very attentive, but 
 I did not observe much fashion. — There are no clerks seated 
 under the public as in England. — In the service a few 
 alterations have been made. 'Those who' is put as a 
 correction for 'Them that' ; Selections are placed before the 
 Psalms of the day; and Prayers are read for the President 
 of the U. States, & sick persons & persons travelling by 
 sea. — After church we left our cards at D r . Hosack's, and 
 Jeremiah Thompson's. The latter is one of the Owners of 
 the Liverpool Packets. — We dined at the Hotel ordinary, and 
 wrote letters in the [*] afternoon & evening. A M r . Todd 
 from Lanark and some others called. — M r . Owen went to 
 tea at M r . Thomas's, where he met M rs . Thomas, Judge & 
 M rs . Ogden who have property on the North river on the 
 borders of Canada, and General Moore. He had an 
 agreeable & interesting evening. 
 
 This morning we finished our letters. I wrote to my 
 uncle, Aunt Annie, W m . Crawford, my mother, M r . Kem- 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 181 
 
 mis & to Skene, a little after 9 o'clock we called at 
 M r . Ogden & Day's counting house, and went down to the 
 east end of the battery to see the steam boat start at 10 
 o'clock to take the letter bags and passengers on board the 
 Packet which was laying too in the bay. — A bell rings to 
 give notice & the steam boat starts precisely at 10 oclock. — We 
 thence [*] went to Pearl Street & saw M r . Marsh a Monday 8* h . 
 merchant for whom Mr. Owen had a letter. We called contd - 
 likewise at the New York Bank, where M r . Owen had 5 
 minutes conversation with M r . Wilkes (descended from the 
 famous Wilkes) cashier of the bank. He called by desire 
 of Hunter M r . Wilkes is a tall, stout, intelligent looking 
 elderly man. We then went to the British consul's 
 (Buchanan) Office in Nassau S*. near the custom house. He 
 had called upon M r . Owen the day after his arrival. He told 
 M r . Owen that it was not customary for British consuls to 
 make the I st . call, but as for some years he had entertained 
 the highest opinion of him & of the utility & benevolence of 
 his views, he considered it the duty of every man who wished 
 to benefit [*] his fellow creatures to step forward to receive Monday 8* h . 
 him. He engaged us to dine with him tomorrow at four contd - 
 o'clock. Thence we went to M r . Ludlow office where he 
 met M r . Thomas. We then returned to the Hotel, and went 
 thence to D r . Hosacks who shewed us his Library and the 
 portraits of some of their patriots. M r . Owen gave 
 Miss Hosack for M rs . Rush his letter to her husband. We 
 then called at M r . Thomas's 80 Chamber Street, where we 
 saw M rs . Thomas to whom the Lanark children's dresses 
 had been sent. She seems a very intelligent [person] : We 
 called on General Moore, a short good humoured old 
 gentleman, thence we went to Grand St. & saw Miss Griscom. 
 We were then puzzled finding the house of M r . Hunter 
 of Hunter's Island in [*] Broadway. He had not yet come 
 to town. [We met Judge (MS blank) & Dr. Mitchell in 
 the street. The Judge is a shrewd looking man. D r . Mitchell 
 is a fat jovial fellow, and expressed great interest in 
 M r . Owen's plans. He begged to be remem d to M r . Clin- 
 ton, & to tell him to give his attention to the new views.] At 
 1/4 past one we called at D r . M c Vicar's at the Columbia 
 College. As M r . Owen decided to go up to Albany for a 
 
182 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Tuesday 9 th . 
 
 (Tuesday 9th. 
 cont d .) 
 
 day to see De Wit Clinton, W m . Owen returned to the 
 Hotel to write to Hunter at Philadelphia to say that he 
 should not reach that place for 3 or 4 days. The boat goes 
 out at 2 o'clock. D r . M c Vicar took us into a class room 
 where Professor Kent was giving his introductory lecture 
 on law, in which he gave a brief review of the U. States 
 Constitution. — After the lecture M r . Owen was introduced 
 to several of the Professors. I was introduced to the 
 Professor of Mathematics. We saw the library and were 
 introduced to the Librarian. The library is at present of 
 small extent. D r . M c Vicar invited us to his house for [*] 
 tomorrow evening — .1 then returned to the hotel for 
 W m . & we dined at Jeremiah Thomsons where we met 
 M r . Marshall, M r . Clibborne, Young Harvey, Professor 
 Griscom & some others. [It was at M r . Marshall's house.] 
 After dinner M r . Thompson made a few objections to 
 M r . Owen's plan on the grounds of independence, liberty to 
 pursue schemes of improvement, and having a stimulus for 
 exertion. M r . Owen engaged to go with him between 8 & 9 
 tomorrow morning to see M r . Hall's school, some way out 
 of town. — On our return to the hotel, M r . Owen found a 
 note from M r . Ludlow inclosing letters to friends in 
 Philadelphia & elsewhere. M r . Grut brought letters for 
 Harmony & we conversed about the western settlement & 
 M r . Owens plans. M r . Owen went out to tea at 
 Dr. McNiven [*] Mr. Houston, Editor of the Minerva & 
 [MS blank], called in. He had been Editor of the 
 Statesman, & was 2 years confined in Newgate for publishing 
 his opinions. He brought a letter of intro n for M r . Clinton. 
 Judge Ogden & his nephew called. He came to offer his 
 nephew's services to shew us the city. At supper he came in 
 again with some friends, and had a long chat with 
 M r . Owen. He seems disposed to wish M r . Owen settled 
 in his neighbourhood, or to sell his lands. — 
 
 After breakfast M r . Owen went to Jeremiah Thompson's 
 while W m . Owen & myself remained to write our Jour- 
 nals. — While we were writing a gentleman called who said 
 that as he under stood M r . Owen wished to purchase land, he 
 came to offer to sell him some. He was recommended to 
 call when M r . Owen was in. [*] Judge Edwards called to 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 183 
 
 acknowledge the receipt of a letter of introduction. He 
 remained till M r . Owen returned with M r . Marshall. He is 
 a very intelligent middle aged man, and seemed to have 
 many of M r . Owen's opinions. He hoped to see us on our 
 return. — M r . Owen had been with M r . Marshall to 
 M r . Hall's school. M r . Hall is a very intelligent person, and 
 adopts the system of tuition by sensible signs. M r . Owen 
 took his plans to M r . Marshall's house, where he shewed 
 them to him, to M r . Hall & J. Thompson. When he had 
 finished the latter said 'Now I begin to see my way.' 
 M r . Owen returned with Mr. Hall whom he left with W m . to 
 converse on the subject & talk about Fellenberg's & Pesta- 
 lozzi's school, and went with me to Col. Willot's to call upon 
 Mr. & Mrs. De Wi[n]t. — Mrs. Dewi[n]t is sister to a 
 M r . Smith who is attached to M r . Rush's Embassy in 
 London. She is also grand daughter [*] of the late 
 President Adams. Col. Willots lives in a distant part of 
 the town near the East River. We found M r . Dewint a 
 clean agreeable person, and the Col. an old officer 
 above 80 years old. He was full of the extraordinary 
 changes which he had witnessed during his lifetime in 
 New York, and said that he expected mail coaches would 
 in 40 or 50 years cross the whole continent of America. — On 
 our way back we called at M r . Hunter of Hunter's Island 
 in Broad Way. He had gone out for the purpose of calling 
 upon M r . Owen. We then went to D r . Blacheley, the 
 gentleman with whom we went the first evening of our 
 arrival, to his society of commonwealth. The Doctor keeps 
 an apothecary's Shop at 467 Greenwich S*. — He shewed us 
 M r . Jefferson's letter to him in 1822, approving of com- 
 munities individually, but disapproving of them for a 
 State, as he thought we should always have brambles & thorns 
 among mankind, and not expect to have all men vines and 
 olives. [*] We went at four o'clock to dine at the British 
 consul's Buchanan. There we met M r . Manners, consul 
 at Boston & related to the English Archbishop, and his 
 daughter, and Mrs. Buchanan & a large family. M r . Buchanan 
 is an Irishman a strong head & enthusiastic heart. He is full 
 of religious feeling. The young ladies were much interested 
 with the description of Lanark schools. M r . Buchanan has 
 
184 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Wednesday 10 th 
 
 ( Wednesday 
 10 th cont d ) 
 
 some plans for civilizing the Indians. M r . Manners is a 
 pleasing man. At 8 o'clock we went to D r . Mc Vicar's 
 where we met a few ladies & some of the Professors. 
 D r . Hosack's son told me that on Hunter's return from 
 Europe, he was not so much at his ease in society as before 
 he crossed the Atlantic. He had the peculiar habit of the 
 Indians of never keeping his eyes fixed, but wandering with 
 them from object to object. M r . Owen conversed for some 
 time with some of the gentlemen. On our return the Driver 
 of the Coach required Seven Dollars [*] for his fare. — At 
 the hotel supper, I had a long conversation with a Col M^Leod 
 who said he was a descendant from Macleod of Macleod. He 
 knew Macleod of Colbecks. 
 
 At Breakfast M r . Baldwin & M r . Griswold recommended 
 us to proceed to Albany by the morning steam boat at io, 
 instead of the 5 o'clock p. m. boat. We therefore packed 
 up a change of dress, and started by the io o'clock boat. Just 
 before we set out, Jacob Harvey called & gave M r . Owen 
 a letter to M r . Clinton, and expressed his regret that his friend 
 M r . Muller was not to set out till the evening boat. He gave 
 me the following list of the dinner party at J. Thompson's 
 on the 8 th . Jer 11 Thompson, Benj n Marshall, John Griscom, 
 Joshua Clibborn, Joseph Walker, Samuel Thompson, Jonas 
 Marshall, David Crowther, John Grimshaw, Jacob Harvey. — 
 We had 70 or 80 persons on board the Steam boat. The 
 front cabin was for gentlemen, the after one for ladies. The 
 fare to Albany 3 dollars including dinner and tea. This 
 was the opposition boat set up last summer. The original [*] 
 company was Leviston & Fulton who had a monopoly 
 granted by the State. Those gentlemen who wished to dine 
 with the ladies had to apply to the captain for tickets. The 
 rest without distinction occupied the deck & fore cabin. 
 Every body appeared disposed to be accommodating, and 
 although there were rich and poor, yet little inconvenience 
 was experienced. There was a stove in each of the cabins 
 which with the heat of the Engine & smell of the oil, produced 
 a hot & close air and disagreeable smell. As there were 
 few ladies on board, one half of their cabin was shut out by 
 folding doors, and in this part we got quiet and very 
 clean & comfortable births at night. — The day was very 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 185 
 
 clear & fine, and the weather mild. A great number of 
 vessels were under weigh, and several sloops beating up 
 the river. The whole day excepting about 1/4 of an hour 
 we were upon deck, passing forward & aft & from side to 
 side admiring the scenery. Both banks of the Hudson 
 river [*] are well wooded. The left bank consists of round 
 hills and undulating lands, thickly covered with country 
 houses & farms for several miles. We saw the opening of 
 the river which makes the island of Van Hatten on which 
 New York stands. The right bank is for several miles up 
 the river high & rocky with a vertical stratification, In some 
 places from 5 to 600 ft. high crowned with pines. [The 
 rocks are called the Pallisadoes] In places the river opens 
 to the breadth of 4 or 5 miles. At West Point it is 
 about 3/4 of a mile wide with a high ridge of mountains 
 on either side through which it seems to have forced its 
 way. Some of the highest & most remarkable points have 
 peculiar names. — On an elevated flat where the river makes 
 an elbow, stands the Military academy and a number of 
 houses of persons attached to this department of the 
 government. On a lofty point above stands a castle, over- 
 looking [*] the academy, and commanding both up & down 
 the river. It was here that during the revolutionary war 
 a chain was drawn across the river, which British men of 
 war sailed up to & cut through. During the last war, this 
 castle was nearly lost by treachery. The scenery through 
 these highlands was magnificent. Though none of the hills 
 could be above 15 or 1800 ft. high, yet their forms were 
 fine and their descents abrupt. Covered with native forests 
 they seemed at times so to shut in the magnificent river we 
 were gliding over at the rate of 10 miles an hour, that 
 we were puzzled to guess in which direction we should pass 
 through them. Every here & there a sudden turn would 
 open to our view a long reach of the river, displaying a 
 landscape difficult to exceed any where in beautiful com- 
 bination, Mountains, wood, meadow or water. On some 
 of the rocky banks, were mills, farms, and the [*] houses 
 of wood cutters. — Our boat was abundantly supplied with 
 pine wood, and at night, the sparks might be seen flying off 
 in great quantities. The awning over the boat was drilled 
 
186 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 with holes burnt through by the sparks of wood falling upon 
 it. This might be remedied by putting some composition 
 upon it. There is a great advantage in burning wood as it 
 is so free from smoke and dust. In the evening we came 
 to Newburg on the right bank. A straggling place built 
 chiefly of wood, about 60 miles above New York. The 
 river is here about 2 miles wide. Opposite is Fishkill, where 
 Mr. Dewint resides. After the night set in we could see 
 but little, but the banks did not appear very high, — They 
 were well wooded. — The boat landed and took in passengers 
 at several places. This was done without stopping the 
 steam. A small boat was lowered, and a rope fastened to 
 
 (Wednesday 10*. [ t was j et [*] out sufficiently to allow it to reach the landing 
 place, while at the same time it was drawn forward. When 
 it stopped, rope was continued to be let out from the steam 
 boat till the fresh passengers had got into it, and then the 
 whole was drawn up to the vessel. We retired to our 
 
 -, births about 10 o'clock. 
 
 At 4 o'clock this morning we reached the landing place 
 at Albany. Here the river is not above 1/2 a mile wide, and 
 the channel in the center very narrow. It sometimes happens 
 that thick fogs come on, & on such occasions vessels are 
 obliged to come to anchor. The land on both sides of the 
 river slopes gradually down to the water's edge, with forests 
 of oak & yellow & white pine mixed. A great part of the 
 land has been cleared and presents a great quantity of 
 cultivated Country. About 1/2 past 5 a bell was rung to 
 rouse the passengers [*] and at 6 o'clock a second one for 
 those going in the coach up to the Canal which crosses the 
 country to Lake Erie. The difference of level between the 
 Hudson river at Albany & the waters of Lake Erie 
 is 662 ft. This Canal was executed by the State of 
 New York, at the instigation of M r . Clinton. — We landed 
 and went to the Eagle Hotel where we were accommodated 
 in a fine large bedroom. Here we found an ordinary well 
 arranged and attended by 40 or 50 persons, at which we 
 breakfasted at Eight — After breakfast M r . Owen went out 
 to call on M r . Clinton while W m & myself remained to write 
 our journal. In 1/2 an hour he returned to take a coach to 
 visit the Shakers establishment of Watervliet near Niskayuna. 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 187 
 
 He had seen M r . Clinton and engaged to be with him to- 
 morrow at 10 o'clock. — The coaches have rounded tops, & the 
 sides [*] are made of leather to roll up in hot weather. This 
 construction, however, renders them cold in winter. Albany 
 is the capital & seat of the government of the State of 
 New York, is a large town, originally a dutch settlement, built 
 in a very irregular straggling manner along the right bank 
 of the river on the side of the hill. The streets are extremely 
 muddy and the pavement very bad. Much business appeared 
 to be doing. On the northern skirts of the town stands the 
 house of Major General the Hon ble Stephen Van Rensselaer, 
 called Patron, proprietor of a large extent of country, and 
 the last of the entail. The Shakers of Watervliet rent their 
 lands from him at 8 bushells of wheat for every ioo acres. 
 We called upon him and were shewn into a very good house 
 kept remarkably clean. He is a tall thin [*] old gentleman 
 remarkably polite & polished in his manners. He talked of 
 the state of the country, and his desire to improve it, and 
 presented M r . Owen with 3 books of a geological & agri- 
 cultural survey of Rensselaer county & the land adjoining 
 the Canal. He engaged us to dinner tomorrow be- 
 tween 3 & 4 o'clock. He spoke of a cotton mill in the 
 neighbourhood, which he said from some mismanagement 
 was not thriving, while those in some other states were 
 showing a dividend of from 20 to 30 per cent. — From the 
 Patron's house we ascended in a south westerly direction, a 
 sandy road through an oak & pine wood over a ridge of 
 small hills. From this road we could see the vale of the 
 Hudson and a part of the town of Albany which we were 
 leaving; and before us lay in the distance the Catskill 
 Mountains near which we had passed in the night, bounding 
 an extensive [*] vale covered with wood, looking beautiful (Thursday n* 
 with its varied tints and evergreen timber. The day was contd.') 
 mild & clear, while scattered clouds cast picturesque shades 
 over the extended landscape. We soon got into a bad road 
 through the wood, and as the coach could not go fast on 
 account of the stumps of trees, we got out and walked. The 
 fences are simple consisting of pallisades laid one upon the 
 other, the ends being supported on two stakes fixed in the 
 ground & crossed near the top. Each length forms the 
 
188 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 face of a zigzag thus WWW . In the wood we passed a 
 farm with some dozen acres cleared around it. — The 
 Establishment of Shakers at Watervliet contains near one 
 hundred persons, nearly equally divided into males and 
 females. It is situated on a flattish piece of land. The 
 houses though neatly built and looking very clean, are [*] not 
 arranged in any regular form. Some are made of wood & 
 some of brick. We drove up to one of the houses, and 
 were received at the door by a respectable elderly female 
 dressed in a brown coloured dress. M r . Clinton had given 
 M r . Owen a letter of introduction to the Society, which he 
 delivered and was led into a small neat room, with small 
 woolen carpets on the floor, the walls w r hite, the wood work 
 stained a brownish red colour & the chairs of stained 
 w r ood, the seats of them of strips of ash wood, and the 
 window blinds of a blue stuff. The room was warmed by 
 a neat stove made for boiling, & washing. It was manu- 
 factured in Albany. To ventilate the room there was an 
 opening in the wall near the floor. We sat and conversed 
 some minutes with this sister who had a chair with the feet 
 so made as to rock back & forward. An old decent looking 
 man dress [ed] in drab-coloured coat & waifs] tcoat & brick 
 coloured trowsers came in & sat conversing with us while 
 the female handed round a pleasant sweet liquor made [*] 
 with honey [called methylin]. — The male then conducted 
 us into the building where the workshops were. The first a 
 small room was for carpenters & joiners work. The room 
 was warmed by a stove. Here we found one man making 
 whips. He appeared intelligent and cheerful. In the next 
 room we found some coopers' work. Above was a shoe- 
 maker's shop, a turner's room, & a taylor's shop. In one 
 room we remained some time. They shewed us some silver 
 pens made by them, and some white clay pipes and tubes 
 made of wood. We shewed them our silver pens which they 
 appeared very curious to examine, and sent for one of cheir 
 brethren skilled in that branch of work. They made us a 
 present of half a dozen pipes and three tubes. In the taylors 
 room we found two boys whom they had received into their 
 Society to educate in their principles. A seafaring gentleman 
 joined our party, and w*e went into their [*] blacksmith's 
 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 189 
 
 shop which was fitted up neatly for their purposes. While 
 in the shop a brother came to say that dinner was waiting. 
 We then went to another building larger than those we had 
 been in. We were shewn into a small neat room where a 
 clean table had been covered with a nice dinner of beefsteaks, 
 boiled beef, pork & vegetables, sweets, apples, apple tarts, 
 squash, so f thread, good cheese & butter, & excellent cider. On 
 a side table was a large bason of warm water and a towel 
 to wash before dinner. We were served by two elderly 
 sisters who were neatly dressed with light striped brown 
 handkerchiefs & brown petticoats. They seemed most 
 anxious to make every thing agreeable to us. After dinner 
 they conducted us through their kitchen, dining room 
 scullery, pantry, & bedrooms. Every thing was remarkably 
 neatly arranged & well contrived, On one side of a gallery 
 were the sleeping rooms of the females and on the other 
 those of the [*] males. The floors were well made, kept (Thursday ii* h . 
 extremely clean, and covered with small woolen carpets. The contd -^ 
 beds in which two sleep were very neat & all of their own 
 manufacture. They informed us that they never quarrelled 
 though they sometimes differed. They took it in turns to 
 cook & serve the rest for about a month, half a dozen 
 females at a time. They found it very pleasant work. We 
 saw two good looking young women, who said that they 
 were extremely happy, and had been there since they were 
 children. — We took our leave of the six simple & good 
 natured cooks, and accompanied two of the males into 
 another building, where we found six females weaving. 
 Three of them were rather elderly, and the other three 
 young. They told us that they wove all that was required 
 for their own family and [*] gave away a good deal. 
 M r . Owen described to them that he had some plans for 
 communities of from 500 to 2000. They remarked that if 
 they went on encreasing by taking children in and educating 
 them, or by receiving grown up persons into their com- 
 munity, as fast as they had done of late ; they should soon 
 have as great a number as he proposed. They appeared 
 much interested with the subject, and became open & easy 
 in their manners, displaying a mildness, amiability & good 
 sense, which was extremely agreeable. We then went to a 
 
190 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 small tannery where two were at work. They said that it 
 was a healthy occupation. To our enquiries how they 
 regulated the different occupations, and whether some did 
 not dislike the dirty or most toilsome occupations, they said 
 that some had a choice of trades, but that many were quite 
 indifferent in that respect. [They informed us that some of 
 them were always travelling to see their friends & that the 
 society furnished willingly the funds required for these 
 journies.] We saw the Piggery, and some [*] of the finest 
 swine we had ever seen, weighing 4 or 5 cwts. They feed 
 them on mashed Indian corn fomented from 24 to 40 hours 
 before feeding. We went next to the thrashing machine, the 
 house for keeping their corn dry, the cider presses, and the 
 school house, over which in a loft they keep seeds, which 
 are their principal object of trafic. Lindley Murray's 
 Exercises, is one of the books I saw there; but all the 
 children were out. They told us that they make very little 
 for sale, being chiefly occupied in working for themselves. 
 From the school we went through the wash-house, laun- 
 dry, & cellar where we saw a good supply of cider. All The 
 linen appeared very good & substantial. We then returned 
 to the first house, purchased two silver pens, a whip, and an 
 octavo vol. containing the [*] history of their sect, and 
 took our leave of three or four of the males and two females 
 who had assembled together there, and gave them our 
 Cards, — M r . Owen telling them they should hear more of 
 him, & that he would if possible send them some of his 
 publications to read. They mentioned that there were 
 about 16 of their Societies in America, and we told them 
 we intended to visit their brethren in the western states. We 
 asked one of them how they got clothes when they wanted 
 any? whether they went into the tailor's shop and asked 
 for them? He replied that last year they wanted to give 
 him so much, that at length he would take no more, as he 
 could not wear out what he had. — They said that no one 
 (Thursday 11 th worked more than he was well able and [*] willing to do, and 
 contd ) that if anyone were unwell they had one of their family a 
 
 very skilful doctor. Several of their members they said, 
 were out at their farms at some distance ; and they added 
 that we should see much more at one of their societies at 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 191 
 
 Lebanon 30 miles off if we went there. [Such articles as 
 they did not produce themselves & could get from their 
 Society at New Lebanon (which is 25 miles from them & was 
 established in 1787) they procured by exchange of produce 
 on the principle of equal quantities of labour ; By which 
 means money and bargaining were dispensed with.] On our 
 return to Albany we walked up to the State House, where 
 we were very politely shewn the chamber of representatives & 
 the senate's room. The rooms were handsome. A Portrait 
 of Washington ornamented the former, and one of 
 M r . Jefferson the latter. We were likewise shewn the 
 library, a small collection in a small room ; but here we were 
 told any person might come and read from morning till 
 night. [*] They are building a large brick theater, and 
 there is a large academy near the State house. We drank 
 tea & supped at the Ordinary. Several representatives & one 
 or two Senators were there, besides travellers & persons 
 having business during the session. They were quite 
 engrossed with electioneering topics of conversation. — We 
 found both the landlord & attendants very attentive to us. 
 
 Temperature at 1/2 past 7 this morning outside our Friday 12*. 
 bed room window — 25 ° — After breakfast M r . Owen called 
 upon the governor of the State with a letter of introduction. 
 He was invited by him to dinner tomorrow, which he 
 declined, intending to leave Albany in the morning. We 
 then called at 10 o'clock on M r . Clinton in Pearl Street. He 
 is a tall, stout, benevolent [*] looking man about sixty. We 
 left M r . Owen with him, and walked along the banks of the 
 canal to the second lock. The canal is 40 ft. wide, the 
 masonry of the locks is of lime stone well put together. The 
 vale of the Hudson is very beautiful, and the day being 
 fine we enjoyed our walk. Soon after our return the Patron 
 called. — A little before 2 o'clock we went to the State 
 House. M r . Owen had a letter of introduction to two 
 members, M r . Crolius & M r . Wheaton. We were admitted 
 into the Chamber of Representatives, where we heard some 
 debating relative to the choice of electors. At 3 o'clock 
 they adjourned. — We dined at the Patrons, where we met 
 his wife, son and daughter, M r . Clinton and three other 
 gentlemen. M r . Clinton gave M r . Owen letters of intro- 
 
192 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 duction to Gen 1 . Jackson & M r . Jefferson. He retired 
 early in the evening. M r . Owen shewed his plans and gave 
 some explanations. A young [*] gentleman made a variety 
 of trif fling objections. — [One of the company told me that 
 he was in England for nine years & educated at Harrow. 
 Lord Byron was his school fellow.] M r . Rensselear told me 
 that he spent 2 years (15 & 16) in Scotland & was well 
 acquainted with Douglas of Thilly Whilley. — The members 
 whom we heard speak in the Chamber of Representatives 
 were Mess rs . Flag, Crolius, Wheaton, Waterman, Living- 
 ston, & Mullet. They seemed plain men and spoke straight 
 forward. M r . Crolius told us that he had been a member of 
 all the chambers since he was 26 years old. He is a man 
 of between 50 & 60. 
 Saturday 13 th . [The thermometer at the same time & place this morn- 
 
 ing 22 .] At breakfast a M r . Hammond claimed acquaint- 
 ance with Owen & thanked him for kind attentions to him 
 three years ago when he was at New Lanark. He is of one 
 of the best families in New York. He gave M r . Owen a 
 letter of introduction then. A quarter before 10 we left 
 Albany in the Kent Steam boat belonging to the original 
 line of Fulton & Livingston. It was excellent in its 
 accommodations, much larger than the Hudson, and without 
 (Saturday 13 th . the least unpleasant smell. A [*] smaller boat took us three 
 contd) miles down the river to the Steam boat, as it drew too much 
 
 water to come up to the town. The Hudson started just 
 after us. As it is not nearly so large it kept close to us 
 at starting, but w T hen the river became wider & deeper we 
 left it behind. The landing & embarking persons at the 
 several places of call, were performed without stopping the 
 Steam boat, in a clean & expeditious manner by a small 
 boat & ropes to let out & pull in. The latter was easily done 
 by a wheel turned by the great Engine. M r . Owen was 
 introduced to a M r . Bird of Philadelphia, a gentleman of 
 some property who was proposing to purchase some lands 
 in the neighbourhood of the Hudson & settle there. He had 
 some conversation with M r . Owen & expressed a wish to 
 join him. We met two of the gentlemen of our party when 
 we came up the river. [*] They had been for the two days 
 visiting the aqueduct a few miles from Albany, which 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 193 
 
 conveys the canal over the river. One of them M r . Hill 
 said he was cashier of the bank at Hoboken ferry opposite 
 to New York, and invited us to visit him. [He recommended 
 us to get Professor Everett's Oration delivered before 
 La Fayette. M r . Clinton recommended us to get 'The Ohio 
 Navigator' at Pitsburgh.] I conversed with a M r . Gardner 
 who expressed a hope that when we went more East he 
 should see us. He spoke of some thriving Salt works, seemed 
 rejoiced that M r . Clinton had gained the election, and 
 seemed to enter warmly into the idea of better educating 
 society. There were above ioo passengers, much more 
 respectable than the party we had coming up. We 
 dined & drank tea in the ladies' cabin, where every thing 
 was neatly & conveniently & abundantly provided. The 
 party seemed to behave with very good manners. The 
 scenery which we lost in the night coming up, we now saw 
 by day. The banks in general are not [*] high, nor the 
 soil very good. Timber of various sorts grows on them, 
 and several neat & pretty country houses vary and enliven 
 the scenery of the banks. There are some houses of 
 considerable size, and large grounds around them, built on 
 picturesque sites; particularly on the east bank. Passing 
 Catskill we had a good view of the Catskill Mountains 
 about 10 or 12 miles west. On or near the top of one of 
 the peaks a summer tavern was built two years ago, which 
 is resorted to in the heat of summer. In winter it is shut 
 up, as no one then attempts to live in so cold a situation. 
 These mountains are covered with wood, and the view from 
 them is very extensive & beautiful. Their height is from 2 
 to 3000 ft. — Nearly opposite the landing place to go to 
 Catskill, on the east bank, are the houses of the Livingston 
 family. [*] We landed at Newburg 1/4 before 8 in the 
 evening. The waiter of the Orange Hotel was on 
 M r . De Winnt's information waiting to conduct us to the 
 hotel, the best in the place, & belonging to M r . DeWint. This 
 was, before the canal was made, a great port for shipments 
 of produce from the western counties of this state. Since 
 the opening of the canal, this business has gone into that 
 new channel & all is at a stand at Newburg. The population 
 is about 3,100. The whole of this day was beautifully 
 
194 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 clear; the air cold. — While on our way in the Steam boat 
 I read M r . Clinton's small pamphlet, which he had given 
 M r . Owen to shew his view of Education. It is a discourse 
 which he delivered at a literary Society, and is merely a 
 strong and earnest recommendation of searching after 
 Sunday 14th. knowledge. [*] After breakfast we crossed the river in the 
 
 Ncv ~~ horse (team) boat; and found Mr. & Mrs. Dewint just 
 
 setting out to Church. A M r . Dewint was with them. The 
 church was about half a mile from the house and of the 
 Reformed Dutch, very similar to the Presbeterian form of 
 worship. The preacher, a young man of considerable 
 talents, preached a very strong Calvinistic doctrine, and 
 informed his hearers that every thing was to be by faith & not 
 by observation. The congregation were very respectable 
 in appearance, & many came in gigs and light spring 
 waggons. There might be between 100 & 200 present. After 
 church we accompanied M r . Dewint to Fishkill Creek [Kill 
 in Dutch means creek], under the highlands to see 
 M r . Schank's Cotton & Woolen Factories at Matteawan. It 
 being Sunday no one was at work, but a young man [*] at 
 the place shewed us through the building. Then we took 
 a short walk by a M r . Nevill's who joined our party and 
 returned with [us] to M r . Dewint's to dinner where we met 
 another gentleman. The land round this neighbourhood 
 is for the most part cultivated, and the timber cut down. 
 There are many orchards. The locust & willow are fine 
 trees, but the latter preserves her leaves long after the frost 
 strips other trees. The highlands, however, are still for 
 the most part covered with pine & some other forest wood, 
 though much has been cut so as to render the trees small. The 
 view from M r . Dewint's is very fine, commanding the 
 river, the opening in the highlands, leading to West point, and 
 the town of Newburgh. A small point of land of 40 acres 
 in size projecting out into the river, having a good house 
 built upon it & surrounded by a belt of trees, forms a very 
 picturesque object in the foreground. — M r . Dewint is 
 about 40 years old, a plain man, but active and intelligent. 
 M rs . Dewint is a pleasing, amiable lady, grand daughter of 
 President Adams. They have five girls. — Her brother is 
 attached to the Embassy in England. — The Principles of the 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 195 
 
 Adams' family has always been to allow of no private or 
 family connexions to influence their public conduct. After 
 dinner M r . Owen shewed his plans to them, and to 
 M r . Schank & another gentleman who came in. They were 
 extremely pleased. We all retired to bed before 10 o'clock. 
 
 After breakfast, we went in M r . Dewint's spring Monday 15th. 
 waggon, which commonly carries 4 persons, to M r . Schank's 
 manufactory. There we were shewn the whole establishment 
 from the foundery & the workshops to the weaving. The 
 females appeared extremely clean, well dressed and well 
 behaved. He employs above 100 persons, [*] who reside in 
 very neat wooden houses near to the factory. There is 
 a store where a great variety of articles are kept for the 
 convenience of the population. We bought worsted mittens 
 for our use during our western tour. M r . Schank's partner 
 M r . Lennard accompanied us, and we experienced every 
 attention from those gentlemen. They are endeavouring to 
 introduce every improvement in their machinery, and their 
 workmen frequently make improvements themselves. The 
 cotton & wool which they use is American & very good. Upon 
 the whole it appears to be a thriving establishment. The 
 day was too rainy to ascend the hill, from the top of which 
 in clear weather the prospect must be beautiful; a road has 
 been made up and a pole erected on the best point for 
 commanding an extensive prospect. — We had a [*] pleasant ( Monda y J 5 th 
 dinner party & conversation with the Dewints, and eat most IV ' con ' 
 excellent venison. They appeared very much interested for 
 M r . Owen's success in his plans. — M r . Lennard while 
 walking through the works told me, that when M r . Schank's 
 returned home the last evening, he kept him up till 
 between 12 & 1 o'clock giving a delightful account of 
 M r . Owen's plans. He told me when I expressed how much 
 I was pleased with the good appearance of their work 
 people, that when a girl did not shew a disposition to be 
 clean & neat in her dress they turned her off. — It is very 
 right to attend to these points ; but I must here remark 
 that M r . Lennard betrayed by this speech his want of 
 acquaintance with the method of forming good characters 
 among his [*] people, as well as of M r . Owen's views on 
 this subject. [M r . Lennard informed me that they cover 
 
196 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 their houses with shingles of white pine which will last 
 above 20 years, instead of slates. They pay about 3 dollars 
 a square.] Between five and six we took leave of our kind 
 friends with mutual good wishes & hopes of meeting next 
 year, and crossed in a sail boat in 6 or 7 minutes to 
 Newburgh, where we waited till half past 8 o'clock & then 
 went out in a large boat, as soon as the distant light of the 
 Steam boat appeared, and were safely put on board the 
 Chancellor Livingston Steam boat of the Old Line, a fine 
 vessel, nearly equal to the Kent. — We found it full, and 
 could only obtain the smallest & worst births in the fore 
 cabin. — [We had intended to visit West Point Academy but 
 the weather being bad, rainy & the wind against us, we were 
 obliged to forego this pleasure, but I hope we shall hereafter 
 visit it. The States government are desirous of supporting 
 such establishments in order to have officers acquainted 
 with military duties in case of a future war. Besides a 
 variety of useful studies, the cadets are annually marched 
 away from the Academy for several days, and encamped. 
 They likewise, I understand, reconnoitre the country & take 
 elevations &c of the mountains.] We met M r . Clinton on 
 board who appeared very friendly & introduced M r . Owen 
 to a Col. Sullivan from the banks of the Ohio. I met on 
 board L*. Bolton of the Royal Engineers a brother officer 
 Tuesday 16^. with whom I had served in France — [*] We had an 
 agreeable conversation for above an hour about our profes- 
 sion & old acquaintances. We were routed about 6 o'clock 
 by a bell for landing the Steam boat having reached the 
 North quai between four & five o'clock. We got bed 
 rooms & a sitting room at the City Hotel and wrote letters 
 for the Packet which sailed at 10 o'clock. There were 
 letters for M r . Owen which had come under cover to 
 Jer h . Thompson & the other Proprietors of the Packet. One 
 contained a letter for me from M rs . Kemmis. I wrote a short 
 one to acknowledge its receipt, and one to M r . Mason. A 
 little before ten I took them to M r . Ogden & Day's counting 
 house. They were very happy to see us. The morning was 
 extremely warm and rainy. M r . Schank his brother, & his 
 son in law, called, and were very polite. The brother 
 appeared extremely desirous of knowing M r . Owen's 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 197 
 
 plan. M r , Schank had brought cloth to shew for the 
 
 premium, [*] and his brother engaged to call upon 
 
 M r . Owen & take him tomorrow to see the exhibition before 
 
 the public day. They expressed a hope that the deceptive 
 
 system of sales by auction of merchandise would soon be 
 
 abolished in this City. — Judge Ogden afterwards called & 
 
 gave M r . Owen a paper & plan, descriptive of his property 
 
 near lake Erie & on the Saint Lawrence. He expressed his 
 
 wish to see us there next summer. He then took us down 
 
 and introduced us to M r ., M rs . & Miss Waddington, who 
 
 have hired appartments in this hotel for the winter. 
 
 M rs . Waddington is the Judge's sister. They have a 
 
 beautiful country seat 12 miles from the city. Mrs. W. said 
 
 that on our return she should feel most happy to introduce 
 
 us to M r . Wilkes' family, the most agreeable she thought 
 
 in New York. Mr. Jeffries the Editor of the [*] Edinburgh (Tuesday 16* 
 
 Review married Mr. Wilkes' daughter. When in New York contd) 
 
 he disappointed the great expectations which he had raised, 
 
 as he shewed much ignorance of the world and often repeated 
 
 at one house what he heard of persons at another, thus 
 
 creating himself many enemies. M rs . Waddington gave us 
 
 a general invitation to call in upon them when we pleased. A 
 
 portly quaker called upon M r . Owen to offer some lands in 
 
 the Ohio for sale. I called at the British consul's office, but 
 
 he had returned home in consequence of the news of a 
 
 daughter's ill health. I asked at the Albion news office for 
 
 M r . Houston, and met Mr. Manners who informed me that 
 
 he would set off tomorrow, on his return to Boston. The 
 
 Albion Editor said he Believed M r . Houston & M r . Coleman 
 
 wrote for the Evening Post; and that the latter wrote 
 
 his articles [*] in the singular number, & the former 
 
 in the plural. M r . Owen called upon M r . Bayard & engaged 
 
 to dine there tomorrow at five o'clock. We dined at the 
 
 Ordinary; and after dinner called on Jer h . Thompson, who 
 
 received us in a friendly manner. We then drank tea with 
 
 Mr. & Mrs. Thomas, where we met Mr. Ludlow. Mr. Thomas 
 
 is to sail for Orleans tomorrow morning. From M r . Thomas's 
 
 we accompanied M r . Ludlow to M r . Ogden's, brother of the 
 
 Judge. He is a merchant. Miss Ogden a fine young person 
 
 left us to go to an evening party. The Judge's lady came 
 
198 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Wednesday 27 th . 
 
 (Wednesday 17 th . 
 Nov 1 " cont d ) 
 
 in. She is a large animated & warmhearted person. She 
 has a large family and is much interested with the description 
 of the New Lanark schools. She gave me a [*] long 
 account of the manner in which they entertained the British 
 officers, who during the war crossed with flags from Upper 
 Canada to their island in the river S*. Lawrence between lake 
 Erie & the Fall of Niagara. We returned home about 9 o'clock. 
 After breakfast M r . Owen went with his son to call on 
 M r . Griscom where he met M r . Eddey, and had an interesting 
 discussion. I walked with my brother officer L*. Bolton 
 to a hair dresser's, and to look at some views of the Hudson 
 river. The price of each is 5 dollars, an excessive price. I 
 purchased Professor Everett's Oration delivered at the 
 Phi Beta Kappa Society, and a copy of the I st . Introductory 
 work on English reading called 'The New York Reader' by 
 a [*] teacher of the name of Murray. I had seen it in the 
 Shakers' school, and much admired the simple & natural 
 progression of intelligible and progressive sentences. This 
 I made up in a parcel for my sister M rs . Bridges & entrusted 
 it to my brother officer. — On our return to the hotel M r . Day 
 called, and M r . Buchanan the B. Consul, the latter to express 
 his wish to read to M r . Owen a paper on the subject of 
 civilizing the Indians, which he did not wish to put to press 
 or sent to M r . Clinton till he had the advice of a person of 
 his experience. M r . Mallard called, and I had an amusing 
 conversation with him & my brother officer, relative to 
 giving me a certificate of sanity. The [*] latter was in 
 Ireland when I accompanied M r . Owen there, and heard that 
 I had gone mad; the former said that one could not pass 
 a whole month at sea in the same ship without discovering 
 a person's madness, were he insane. — Jacob Harvey called & 
 gave me his address. — M r . Owen on his way back, called at 
 D r . Hosack's where he met De Witt Clinton. They were 
 extremely glad to see him, & gave him several letters of 
 introduction. M r . Owen afterwards went to M r . Buchanan's 
 office, and heard that gentleman read a manuscript on the 
 subject of civilizing the Indians, the outlines of which he 
 highly approved of. I called with William Owen on 
 M r . Abram Ogden, & left the pattern dresses of the Lanark 
 school children for the family to see. At one o'clock 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 199 
 
 M r . Schank's [*] brother called and conducted us to the 
 Artillery store where they were arranging the lower floor, 
 with a variety of goods of American manufacture for the 
 examination by a committee tomorrow. This is the second 
 year of this exhibition, which has been instituted by a 
 society of persons for the purpose of stimulating domestic 
 industry & home manufactures. In consequence of the 
 failure of funds, the plan had nearly fallen to the ground 
 this year as no prizes could be afforded; but it was settled 
 that certificates would answer the same purpose without 
 the expense. We were shewn several pieces of very good 
 black, blue, grey & olive cloth, umbrellas almost the first 
 of American manufacture, and having a good likeness of 
 La Fayette on the handle, glass, straw bonnets, hats, [*] and 
 printed silks — All a very promising display. We were 
 introduced to several of the Principal manufacturers, and 
 afterwards taken through the Armoury for 10,000 stand of 
 Arms on the floor above. The American musket appears to 
 be better finished than the British, and instead of having 
 the barrel fastened with pins to the stock, has 3 iron bands 
 with springs to keep them in their places. [We saw 
 M r . Wilkens M r . Schencks son in law at the store. He is 
 to be one of our party tomorrow to set out for Philadelphia 
 at 11 o'clock.] On our return we called at D r . M c . Nevan's. 
 He is Professor of chemistry, we found him in his study. He 
 shewed us his class room. He is a short stout, middle 
 aged, sprightly intelligent person, highly favorable to 
 M r . Owen's views. W T e afterwards left our cards at 
 D r . M^Vicar's. — On our way back to the Hotel, we overtook 
 two Shakers from New Lebanon. They had heard of 
 M r . Owen's visit to Liskeyuna, and guessed they were [*] 
 talking to himself. They were very open & independent in 
 manner, were friendly in their expressions, & hoped to see 
 him at their establishment. They had heard of New Lanark 
 and expressed a wish to see it. At 5 o'clock we went to dine 
 at M r . Bayard's in Greenwich near the State Prison. We 
 met the Spanish general Carlos de Alvear, from Buenos 
 Ayres. He is son of the general of that name, married 
 to an English lady, who resided at La Tola, while the British 
 troops were in Cadiz & that place. M r . Owen had a 
 
200 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 discussion with him relative to his plans. The general was 
 born in one of the Reductions in Paraguay, while his father 
 was employed as commissioner settling their limits. He 
 says that they still go on, though the Jesuits have been 
 abolished, and now have the advantage of receiving the 
 knowledge which is getting among them from Europe. The 
 (Wednesday 17 th . general described them as [*] being in comfortable circum- 
 Nov r . contd) stances, though without possession much knowledge of the 
 
 improvements in European Arts; he added that they were 
 all equal, without any of them being either masters or 
 servants. He got a list of M r . Owen's several publica- 
 tions, for which he said he should write to England. We 
 likewise met a M r . Ogden a brother of the Judge & 
 of M r . Abram Ogden, and his son Abram who gave me 
 a letter of introduction to a friend of his at Philadelphia, 
 a Mr. William M Meredith Esq. — Mr. Clibborn & his lady & 
 a french gentleman. — On our return M r . Owen found a letter 
 from M r Hunter of Hunter's Island inviting him there. 
 [The hackney coaches are made to open all round in warm 
 weather, and to shut in with leather sides in winter. They 
 are kept in good order. Many of the drivers are Irishmen.] 
 Thursday 18 th . While we were packing up this morning, Judge Ogden 
 
 called. He gave M r . Owen a letter of introduction to 
 M r . Munro, the present President, and expressed a strong 
 desire to see us next spring at his country house. Just before 
 we came away, I met [*] IA Cookson of the Artillery on 
 his way to England on leave of Absence. — We left New 
 York at ii o'clock from the north end of the Battery in 
 a Steam boat for New Brunswick. The boat was not very 
 large nor very full of passengers. M r . Ludlow accompanied 
 us on board and introduced us to M r . and M rs . Loyd & her 
 Mother, who were on their way from Boston to Philadelphia. 
 M r . Loyd is an elderly gentleman ; he is a senator ; his lady 
 appeared a very agreeable intelligent person. M r . Schenck & 
 several ladies came on board with the new married couple 
 M r . & M rs . Wilkens. Our course lay past Staten Island 
 through a narrow channel called the Kills, and thense up a 
 small, winding river to New Brunswick. The day was 
 cold, but extremely clear & fine. The country on both sides 
 was nearly flat. In some parts extensive flat meadows, 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 201 
 
 which grew a long grass, of which they make hay which is 
 left on the ground until a hard frost enables them to cut 
 it away. Cattle are very fond of its salt flavour, In other 
 parts woods every here & there cleared away for small 
 fields & little farmhouses. [*] Along the banks were 
 sometimes to be seen small country houses, with a few 
 weeping willows & poplars around them. Occasionally we 
 stopped at a village or landing place to take in or let out 
 passengers. We passed 3 or 4 steam boats going to New 
 York. At Brunswick we landed at 4 o'clock, and got into 
 4 horse-stages which were waiting, and immediately set off 
 on the road to Trenton, which lies on the left bank of the 
 Delaware and six or eight & twenty miles from Brunswick. 
 [As the stage could not carry all our baggage, a great part 
 of it was left to be sent in the baggage waggon which they 
 informed us would cross to Trenton the same evening.] The 
 latter place [Brunswick] we could not well see, as we did not 
 go quite up to the town ; but it seems a small, busy town. The 
 road lay for the most part through oak woods, here & there 
 cleared away for farm houses & a few fields. The soil did 
 not appear very rich; the road was badly made & deep in 
 a red sand. About half way we changed horses, & passed 
 through a village of the name of Princeton, where there is 
 an Academy, and a Theological Seminary. — A little before 9 
 o'clock we passed through Trenton in the dark, and put up 
 at the Ferry Hotel near the river Delaware. Here we 
 had a good supper & beds. 
 
 At five o'clock we went in the stage across the [*.] bridge Friday 19 th . 
 at Trenton & about 8 or 10 miles down the right bank of Novr - 
 the river to where the Philadelphia Steam boat was waiting 
 for us. The river is not deep enough to admit of large 
 steam boats going up to Trenton, except at high water. We 
 got under way at 7 o'clock, and reached Philadelphia at 
 half past 10 o'clock. [The stages are not well made, the 
 leathern sides let in the wind, the springs are bad, and as 
 they have benches in the middle without any back to 
 them, & carry 9 inside, they may be fairly called uncomfort- 
 able vehicles.] The country on both sides of the river was 
 flat, but appeared to be of a better soil, and was more 
 cleared and cultivated. It had the appearance of having 
 
202 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 been longer settled. The country houses, farms, & villages 
 along the banks of the river, resembled Dutch settlements. 
 Many of them, though small, were neat; & I should think 
 that the whole scenery would be pleasing in the verdure of 
 spring. A few miles below Trenton Joseph Bounaparte, the 
 exking of Spain, whom the Spaniards called Pepe Botillas, 
 has purchased a nice place where he lives retired from the 
 world, enjoying the society of a few friends. A passenger 
 on board the Steam boat, informed me that he was much 
 (Friday 19 th . beloved & respected by the country [*] people in his 
 Nov 1 ", contd.) neighbourhood and constantly employed a great many 
 workmen. When he arrived first at Philadelphia he heard 
 that some poor people had a most beautiful daughter. He 
 offered the mother 10,000 dollars for her daughter, which 
 was accepted, and she now lives with him. We breakfasted 
 on board the Steam boat on our way down the river; the 
 mother and her second daughter (a pretty young woman) 
 were among the company. A passenger asked the captain, 
 how much he thought the fat lady weighed; the ready reply 
 was 10,000. — The distance down is about 30 miles; halfway 
 we stopped at a pretty village called Bristol. One of the 
 villas on the river side was pointed out to me as the residence 
 of M r . Cooper the leading American Actor. Nearly opposite 
 to Bristol is the village of Burlington. The river widens 
 considerably at Philadelphia and the sides appear marshy. 
 Here it may be three quarters of a mile wide with a 
 steamboat ferry across to Camden, a small village on the 
 Delaware side. Wooden quais line the river side, and the 
 water is so deep that [*] large vessels lay close to them. The 
 warehouses are of brick — Two large & lofty ones with a 
 large house beyond them, and two fine large ships abreast 
 of the quai, were pointed out to us as belonging to 
 M r . Stephen Girard the banker, and richest ready money 
 man in the U. States. We saw only two church spires and 
 one unfinished top to a Lutheran place of worship. Lower 
 down the river we saw a large building, the covering we were 
 told of a seventy four, building on so large a scale as to be 
 fit to carry 140 guns. Several vessels lay along the sides 
 of the quais, and we saw others on the stocks. — We landed 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 203 
 
 without difficulty and a black porter with a badge on his 
 hat, took our things on a wheel barrow to South Third 
 Street, to the Mansion house Hotel, Chester Bailey to whom 
 notice had been given by post the day before. The streets 
 are all at right angles, have good brick footways on each 
 side, and occasionally a few trees. The houses are irregularly 
 built, but appear neat & clean. The street pavement, is 
 bad, and we made a remark on our way to the hotel that 
 they are bad paviours in this country, as far as we had 
 seen. [*] In a boarding house No. 89 South third Street 
 we saw Hunter. He is short, rather sallow complexioned, 
 and not stout. This appearance might be the consequence 
 of a severe inflamation of the lungs from which he is but 
 just recovering. He gave me much the idea of an officer 
 of the Navy. He was delighted to see Mr. Owen & gave 
 us all a hearty welcome. While sitting with him he 
 introduced a friend of his M r [MS blank], who expressed 
 a great desire to visit M r . Owen's place, which he hoped to 
 succeed in doing, as he was to sail for Liverpool in a 
 Philadelphia packet (one of which sail once a month) 
 tomorrow. This is not so good a point for packets to sail 
 from as New York, as it is 150 miles from the sea. We 
 dined with M r . Flower & Miss Ronald's at the Boarding 
 house in South Fourth Street where they lodge. The 
 rooms & company & fare were good; the dinner was 
 between two & three, and we left the table before 1/2 
 past 3. A M r . Elliot, a member of the senate, who has 
 a suite of appartments in the house, was at table, and [*] 
 conversed for some time with M r . Owen. W m . Owen 
 walked out to view the town with a M r . Black a lodger 
 there, and I returned to the hotel. M r . Owen afterwards 
 went to drink tea there, and to be introduced to M rs . Elliot. — 
 M r . Flower shewed M r . Owen a letter he had received from 
 his son, informing him that M r . Rapp had received two 
 offers to buy his place, which he would certainly accept, 
 unless M r . Owen before the end of Dec 1 *, decided to take it 
 himself. M**. Flower urged M r . Owen to hasten his Journey 
 west. Hunter told us that his plan was, if strong enough 
 in ten days, to take a passage by sea to New Orleans, where 
 
204 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 his baggage was, where he had many friends, and where 
 he likewise had business to transact, and thence sail up the 
 Mississippi, & join us at Harmonic The voyage to New 
 Orleans he calculated would take 15 days, & that up the 
 river 10 or 12. — Coming here from New York, we paid 
 each 2 1/2 dollars passage, 75 cents, dinner, one dollar, 
 supper & bed, & 1/2 a dollar breakfast. The voyage up to 
 i Fnday 19 th . Albany cost 3 dollars each, [*] including every thing, and 
 Nov r . contd) t j ie same com i n g down. So great is the opposition at this 
 
 moment, that one of the Steam boats takes passengers 45 
 miles for 12 1/2 cents — 6 1/2^. About 8 o'clock M** Owen 
 came home with a M r . Pachston, a boarder in the same 
 house with M r . Flower, who introduced himself to M r . Owen 
 & offered to do any thing in his power for him while he 
 remained in Philadelphia. — M r . Owen met a M r . Vaughan 
 for whom he had introductions, who engaged us to be at 
 the Atheneum this evening. This is an institution set on 
 foot within a few years for the purpose of enabling strangers 
 to become acquainted with the society of the place. 
 Saturday 20*. We breakfasted at half past g at the ordinary where 
 
 there were about two dozen persons. After breakfast I 
 wrote a long letter to my aunt Lewis [ ?], which with others 
 from M r . Owen & his son we took on board the Steam 
 boat, which was to go down the river to the Algonquil 
 Packet which is bound for Liverpool. M r . Hunter's 
 friend M r . Haggarty whom we met with him yesterday 
 took charge of our letters as he was going to England 
 by that Packet. While we were writing several visitors 
 called. [*] D r . Rush, — M r . Gilpin brother of a quaker who 
 has a paper manufactory at Brandyway near Wilmington 30 
 miles down the river, and who expressed a great desire to 
 see M r . Owen's plans introduced, & M r . Hunter, with two 
 or three friends. D r . Rush engaged us to dine with him 
 on Monday. Between 12 & 1 o'clock M r . Owen went out 
 to deliver his letters, & W m . & myself went in a coach with 
 Mr. Flower & Miss Ronalds to see the water works which 
 supply the whole city. While waiting for them at a shop 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 205 
 
 door, we got the coachman to explain to us in a few words 
 the plan of the streets thus 
 
 w 
 
 Xs /ti^^Cc^tf^j^^ 
 
 Market St. is the center street having in its middle a covered 
 market place for all sorts of articles. This arrangement 
 seems to be well managed, and the supply of every thing 
 abundant [*] Beef I was told was about 9 cents & mut- 
 ton 5 cents per lb of the best quality. Parallel to Market 
 Street run streets from the Delaware to the Schuylkill, having 
 for the most part names of trees. At right angles to Market 
 Street and across it runs Broad St. The crossing is meant to 
 be the center of the city. Parallel to Broad St. run other 
 streets. The outer ones are called Front Street next comes 
 2 n <*. St., 3rd. St. & so on up to the center, and have the 
 addition of North or South as they run north or south of 
 Market St. The streets are of a moderate width with brick 
 foot ways on both sides. The houses are chiefly of brick 
 with marble or granite steps. There are in a few places 
 squares inclosed by palings & planted. The Bank is con- 
 
206 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 sidered a fine building. The distance from the Mansion 
 house hotel to the Water works which are by the side of the 
 Schuylkill river is about a mile & a half, — The streets 
 though laid out nearly to reach them, are not yet built. The 
 river is darned up, and three water wheels having about 
 a 1 20 horse power force a supply of water up to a reservoir 
 100 feet above the level of the river. A continuation of 
 the building is already prepared to receive 3 other wheels 
 when a greater supply shall be found necessary. The 
 contrivance is extremely simple. The large wheel turns an 
 arm which works a piston which forces 42 barrels of water 
 per minute into the reservoir, through [*] metal pipes, and 
 from thence it is conducted into the city through wooden 
 ones. But I was told that metal ones would soon be intro- 
 duced all the way. From the height of the reservoir we 
 could command an extended view of the banks of the 
 Schuylkill river which are prettily wooded, & adorned with 
 a few country seats ; and we saw a great portion of the 
 city. The outskirts appear scattered & the ground much 
 broken with sand pits, quarries, and holes. The soil is of 
 a sandy & reddish earth, & the stone a soft granite. The 
 trees do not grow to a great height, & the soil appears 
 poor. At 3 o'clock we dined with M r . Hunter at the boarding 
 house where he lodges. We met about a dozen gentlemen 
 there. A D r . Warren argued that Physiologically man was 
 not so far the creature of circumstances, that a Chinese 
 child could be made completely an Indian, were he in the 
 earliest stage of life remove [d] from the one situation into 
 the other. After dinner M r . Owen went to settle with 
 M r . Flower about setting off for Baltimore & Washington 
 on Tuesday the 23 rd . We drank tea at 6 o'clock at the 
 Ordinary, and after tea a M r . [MS blank] called on 
 M r . Owen to ask him to his house or to see M r . Say at 
 the Academy of Natural Science. He seemed a man of 
 (Saturday 20th. business, expressed a great conviction in [*] the goodness 
 Nov r . contd) of M r . Owen's plan & mentioned some working people whom 
 he could depend upon as men of integrity and advocates of 
 the plan. — At 8 o'clock we called at M r . Hunter's & went 
 with two gentlemen to the Atheneum, where M r . Vaughan 
 introduced us to a large circle of scientific men. M r . Owen 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 207 
 
 had some conversation with several who were favorable to 
 his views. D r . Brown Professor of Medicine at Lexington 
 college in the State of Kentucky, invited us strongly to visit 
 that place, where he said they were anxious to introduce 
 improvements in education. He wished to have been able to 
 travel west with us, but having been absent in Europe, he 
 was obliged to proceed home in haste, & could not wait to 
 accompany us. I was introduced to D r . Bigsby of the 
 British Medical Department of Canada. He had known 
 Skene & several of the Engineers in Canada. He was very 
 polite & offered us his services. I was introduced to several 
 U. States officers & conversed with them. Major Long, the 
 author of travels in the States was there, and conversed with 
 me for a short time relative to the state of the country. 
 
 Immediately after breakfast M r . Spackman, on whom Sunday 21st. 
 M r Owen called yesterday, & for whom he had a letter of Nov r . 
 credit from the House of Rathbone, called and engaged us 
 to breakfast [*] with him tomorrow at 8 o'clock. M r . Hunter 
 called with a friend & two other gentlemen, one of whom 
 took M r . Owen in his carriage 3 miles out of the City to 
 Madame Fretage's the celebrated teacher. [One of the 
 gentlemen was M r . Kuhn; another was M*\ Vaughan; a 
 third M r . Cresson.] M r . Bird called and engaged us {o 
 dinner at 1/2 past one. At 10 o'clock I went with W m . Owen 
 to the Quaker's meeting in Arch S*. where we saw a very 
 large congregation. Many persons, both male & female, 
 were dressed in the fashions of the day. Two females & one 
 male speaker addressed the meeting for a short time in a 
 very slow uninteresting style. We came out about 1/2 past 
 eleven, and walked along several of the streets. The 
 Pensylvanian hospital is a conspicuous building, having a 
 bronze statue of Penn in the court in front of it. The 
 United States Bank built of Marble is a very handsome 
 building In Chesnut Street there are several good buildings 
 and well built rows of houses. As the ground on which the 
 city is built is nearly level, you may see the country beyond 
 each extremity of almost every street from almost any [*] 
 part of it, and at the crossings of the streets you see the 
 four cardinal points as through the small end of a spy 
 glass. This effect, though striking, is not agreeable ; and 
 
208 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Monday 22 n ^. 
 Nov 1 ". 
 
 (Monday 22 n &. 
 Nov 1 ", confd) 
 
 as there is no variety, it becomes tiresome walking through 
 the streets, which have neither very large nor magnificent 
 houses to attract & please the eye, nor a sufficient width to 
 give to their length & regularity a noble appearance. When 
 we returned to the hotel, M r . Beckett, a gentlemanly 
 person, called to offer his services. He is a partner of 
 M r . Davis, & married to a sister of M*\ Kuhn. Another 
 gentleman also called. At 1/2 past one we went to M r . Bird's 
 to dinner where we met M r . Neff of Savannah who invited 
 us to visit him. He mentioned a Captain Gordon, son of 
 Sir Willoughby Gordon & Captain in the guards being there 
 and visiting a great deal. M r . Bird returned to the hotel 
 with us, and sat [*] some time in conversation with 
 M r . Owen relative to the terms on which capital would be 
 borrowed & associations formed on his plans as he wished 
 to become a shareholder. We then called on M r . Warder & 
 D r . Chapman, both of whom were out. We returned, sat 
 in conversation with Hunter till six o'clock, and then went 
 to drink tea with Mr. Longstreth, where we met a large 
 party of Friends, to whom M r . Owen gave an outline of his 
 views. [Among the Party were Mess rs . Spackman, & Wilson, 
 Redwood Fisher, Miss Fisher, M r s. Fisher, D r . Morton, & 
 Eli K Price.] We returned to M r . Hunter's between 9 & 10 
 o'clock where we met a Col. Clarke to whom M r . Owen 
 shewed his drawings and who wished him every success, and 
 added that he would himself be an active co-operator. 
 Eli Price shewed us the way home, and engaged to go with 
 me to see the line of Battle ship that is on the stocks. 
 
 This morning we breakfasted with Mr. Spackman & 
 met M rs . Spackman, [*] the son, M r . Wilson his partner, & 
 M r . Flower. M r . Owen drew money from him. After 
 breakfast we called on M rs . Hume the wife of M r . Hume 
 who knew M r . Owen in England, & who wishes to embark 
 £ 30 in his plan. W m . Owen & myself returned to the 
 hotel, where Captn Maxwell, & Mess r s. Cresson & Price, 
 called. Also a gentleman from the Franklin Institute to 
 ask Mr. Owen to attend there this Evening and give a 
 lecture. M r . Owen engaged to go there between 7 & 8 
 o'clock and meet, the gentlemen, but said he could not give 
 any public lecture on the subject, before he have waited upon 
 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 209 
 
 the members of government. He would however, be most 
 happy to be introduced to the gentlemen so kindly inviting 
 him, and in conversation explain any [*] point of his plan 
 they wished to have explained. Another gentleman called 
 to request M r . Owen would attend the meeting of several 
 persons who had formed themselves into a sort of society 
 for the purpose of promoting his plan of association, and 
 give them some information on the subject. M r . Owen 
 regretted that his short stay & numerous engagements would 
 put it out of his power to attend their meeting; but he 
 observed that, as he had engaged to be at the Franklin 
 Institute this evening, some of the gentlemen of this society 
 might be able to attend there. M r . Owen went out in a 
 coach with M r . Cresson to see the Water works & pay some 
 visits & I accompanied by Mr. Eli Price called for 
 M r . Vaughan at the Athenaeum, which is in one end of 
 the Building called the Museum, in one chamber of which 
 the [*] Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776. In 
 the Athenaeum we met M r . Paxton who put my name down 
 in the books, which would enable me to go there & read the 
 papers & make use of the library. M r . Paxton then 
 accompanied us to the Academy of Natural Science & intro- 
 duced me to M r . Say the librarian. He is a Naturalist and 
 is at present publishing a work on the subject. We then 
 went to Mr. Meredith's and I left my card & Mr. Ogden's 
 letter as he was out. On our return to the Hotel, we 
 found M r . Owen & several gentlemen looking at his plans & 
 discussing his views. The gentlemen were, Mess rs Turner 
 Camac, Washington Smith, Thomas Say, M r . Le Seur, 
 Redwood Fisher, Jon*. W. Condy, Eli K Price. — The 
 National Bank which I passed through this morning, has 
 a very handsome front. It is built of marble brought from 
 the neighbourhood. — We went at 3 o'clock to dine with 
 D r . Rush. M rs . Rush is a handsome, & very pleasing 
 person. There was a large party. Among the number were 
 Mr. [*] Meridith & his son, Mr. Kuhn, & Mr. Beckett. [Also 
 Mrs. Rush's father, Ridgway, & two brothers of Dr. Rush.] 
 The table was extremely well served. At 6 o'clock we 
 went & drank tea with a M r . Fortin (a black) and his 
 family. He had a large sail manufactory & had made an 
 
210 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 independence. Such is the prejudice against his colour that 
 his family are not visited. They appeared interesting 
 people. The daughters are fine girls & all the children seem 
 well educated. M r . Owen went for the purpose of being 
 introduced by Mr. Flower to M r . Granville the Haytian 
 Agent employed to invite Free Blacks to remove to 
 St. Domingo. About 2000 were shipped off a short time 
 since, but as it is strongly reported that a French Fleet has 
 been seen & that an attack is to be made on the Island, the 
 blacks suspect that they will be made soldiers; therefore 
 they are at present not so well inclined as might be expected 
 to go & settle there. M r . Granville was in Buonaparte's 
 army & served several campaigns in Germany &c He seems 
 an intilligent, active person. At half past 7 o'clock we met 
 (Monday 22nd some gentlemen at the [*] hotel who escorted us to the 
 Nov r . contd) Institute. There we found a lecture room crowded with 
 
 respectable persons. One of the Professors opened the 
 proceedings by stating that the gentleman who was to lecture 
 that evening was unexpectedly absent, but that M r . Owen 
 had kindly agreed at their request to give them a short 
 outline of his views & plan. M r . Owen then addressed the 
 meeting, & regretted that he was so little prepared to give 
 any public exposition exposition of his plans, as it had been 
 his intention to confine all his communications to conversation 
 with his friends till he had visited the most interesting 
 portions of the States. He therefore trusted that the gentle- 
 men present would be satisfied with the short & imperfect 
 outline which he should attempt to give them. He then 
 stated his view of human nature, the influence of circum- 
 stances over it, the sort of associations which he wished to 
 have established; and ['*] in reply to a few questions gave 
 a brief statement of his own experience & practice, and of 
 the system of education adopted at New Lanark. The 
 company applauded him on his concluding these statements, 
 & broke up between 8 & 9 o'clock. Mr. W. Meridith then 
 took W m . Owen & myself to a Soiree at M rs . Marloe's. This 
 lady sees the most fashionable company at her house every 
 Monday evening throughout the year. The company was 
 very genteel & agreeable, and the drawing rooms were 
 handsome & convenient. M r . Meredith & L*. Page of the 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 211 
 
 Navy, were very attentive to us. They introduced me to 
 several young ladies ; — Misses Hamilton, the daughter of a 
 rich Charleston Merchant, & about to be married, Miss Wil- 
 son, Griffith, two Misses Golovin, Elwin, Seaton who told me 
 she was to set out for Baltimore tomorrow in the Steam boat, 
 and the daughter in law of the British consul Robertson. — 
 
 Mr Owen breakfasted [*] with Mr. Mathew Carey the Tuesday 23rd 
 bookseller, and afterwards called on Mess rs . Longstreth, Novr - 
 Stackman, Fisher, the British consul Robertson, Beckett 
 where he was introduced to his father in law M r . Kyle, & 
 M r . Walsh the Editor of the National Gazette, to whom he 
 gave a copy of Thompson work on the Distribution of 
 Wealth. Our bill came to 40 1/2 $ W^e embarked on board 
 the Steam boat at midday. Our Party now consisted of 
 Mr. Flower & Miss Ronald's, Mr. Hunter & ourselves. We 
 met on board D r . Mease, M r . & Mrs. Everett, Mr. and 
 M rs . Fickler, Miss Seaton and two other young ladies. 
 M r . Everett is brother to the professor, was Envoy in 
 Holland, & has travelled much in Europe. The river widens 
 rapidly as you descend, the country is low on both sides but 
 seems to be well cultivated. At the southern extremity of 
 the city is the Navy Yard, where we saw two ships building, 
 and several small vessels lying. The ships were within large 
 and well built wooden [*] coverings. I had wished to see 
 these vessels before I left Philadelphia, but w T as informed 
 that strict orders had been issued not to admit Foreigners 
 into the Navy yard. Nine miles down the [we] passed a 
 redoubt on the right bank of the river, a wooden fort built 
 on piles in the middle and a sandy elevation on the left 
 bank where the Hessians were defeated in 1778. The 
 redoubts were attacked by British men of war during the 
 Revolution. D r . Mease left us at a landing place a short 
 distance below this point. We landed at a small place called 
 New Castle about 1/4 after 5, and crossed in 8 4 horse 
 coaches to French town 16 miles, where we again embarked 
 on board a steam boat at 1 /2 past 8 o'clock on the Chesapeake 
 river. [A short distance below French town stand the ruins 
 of some public stores, burnt in 181 4 by the British.] The 
 country through which we passed was low, & in some places 
 cultivated; but as we passed through it in the dark we had 
 
212 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 (Tuesday 23rd. 
 Nov r . cont d ) 
 
 Wednesday 24 th 
 
 Nov r . 
 
 not an opportunity of observing it. As soon [*] as we 
 were all on board, tea was served, after which the ladies 
 retired into their cabin, and the Captain drew tickets with 
 numbers on them, allotting the births to the passengers. [Our 
 passage &c cost about $7 each.] 
 
 About 3 o'clock we arrived at Baltimore, and between 
 6 & 7 o'clock we landed & went to the Indian Queen Hotel, 
 kept by M r . Barnam. We had some difficulty in finding 
 accommodation as the city was filled with persons attending 
 the Annual Cattle Shew, and as the Marquis La Fayette 
 was expected the next day from Washington, for whose 
 reception a wooden painted arch way had been erected at 
 the end of the principal street, with the following inscription, 
 Washington Welcome our Friend La Fayette 
 1776 1824 
 
 After breakfast M r . Tiernan called on M r . Owen and said 
 that his friend in Philadelphia had written to him to say that 
 Mr. Owen was to be in Baltimore that day. M r . Owen gave 
 him a letter he had for him, and he then accompanied 
 M r . Owen to call & [*] deliver letters to General Harper 
 from M r . Thomas, & to M r . Meredith councillor at law from 
 Judge Ogden* [*& letters to Mess rs . Gwynn, Robinson, & 
 Maher]. — He likewise called on M r . Murphy editor of the 
 American, and was introduced in the street to M r . Robert 
 Oliver a rich & benevolent gentleman. At General Harper's 
 M r . Owen saw Miss Seaton who resides with him. The 
 General is son in law to Charles Carroll who, besides 
 Mess rs . Jefferson & Adams, is the only one living of those 
 who signed the declaration of independence. Col. Harvey 
 who was on the Duke of Wellington's staff married a 
 granddaughter of M r . Carroll. [M r . Neil an American 
 lawyer in London gave the letters to Mess rs . Murphy, 
 Gwynn, Maher & Robinson] M r . Gwynn is Editor of the 
 Federal Gazette. M r . Owen was introduced to M r . Raymond 
 and bought of him for 4 1/2 $ his treatise in 2 vols on 
 Political Economy. Shortly after M r . Owen's return to the 
 Hotel General Harper, accompanied by his son, called & 
 invited us all to drink tea with him. We then drove 4 miles 
 into the country to the Cattle Shew, which was in a field 
 near a farm house & inclosed by Palings. We paid a dollar 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 213 
 
 each, the ladies & M r . Owen [*] excepted, for admittance, 
 but as almost all the cattle had been removed the day before 
 we saw but little. We were however introduced to 
 M r . Somerville one of the stewards, and M r . Owen was 
 invited to dine with the meeting,* [the next day to meet 
 La Fayette upon which occasion General Harper was to 
 deliver an Oration.] but he declined as he w r as anxious 
 to proceed to Washington. The day was very warm and 
 dusty, the thermometer stood about 70 in the shade. We 
 paid 2$ for a hackney coach to take 4 out & bring them 
 back. The subburbs of the city appeared irregular, the 
 ground being broken up by brick kilns & streets laid out 
 where only here & there a small house had yet been built. 
 The road was rough & irregular at the sides, & deep with 
 sand & gravel. The country was only cultivated in places, 
 being for the most part covered with w r ood, principally 
 oak, but not of any great size on account of the poverty of 
 the soil. — We dined at 2 o'clock at the Ordinary where 
 there were probably 50 persons. After dinner we went to 
 the Exchange, a large & handsome building, where our 
 names had been entered by General Harper & where we read 
 the [*] newspapers. On our return, M r . Tiernan called & 
 introduced a M r . Shepperd. W m . Owen and myself walked 
 out to look at the town & inspect the Catholic Church & 
 Unitarian chapel. It was too late in the evening to see the 
 inside of these buildings. We could however remark that 
 the Unitarian chapel had both an elegance & lightness of 
 appearance, which were altogether wanting to the large, 
 square, & solid mass of building erected by the Catholics, 
 The two churches were close to one another. Over the 
 Unitarian was the inscription in Greek, T lead to God,' ; on 
 each face of the Catholic was a verse from the Bible. That 
 face which looked towards the Unitarian chapel had the 
 following verse, 
 
 'As for us we preach Christ Crucified, to the Jews a 
 'stumbling block, to the Greeks foolishness/ A short 
 distance from these churches stands a white marble Trojan 
 column, to the memory of Washington, on the top of which 
 his statue is to be placed. In another part [*] of the city (Wednesday 24th. 
 stands a small monument to the memory of some of the Nov r .) 
 
Nov r . 
 
 214 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 citizens killed in the year 1814 when the British attacked 
 the place. The city of Baltimore stands on the side of a 
 small rising ground & over looks in some parts the harbour. 
 On a small and elevated neck of land stands a battery &. 
 signal post. The principal street & some others are large, and 
 a considerable deal of business seemed to be doing. As the 
 summers here are extremely hot, the frame work required 
 for awnings stood across the footway in front of most of 
 the large houses. We remarked that the inhabitants looked 
 pale & not healthy. This might in a great measure be 
 occasioned by the pernicious practice of overheating their 
 rooms. — In the evening M r . Owen received a note from 
 M r . Meredith inclosing three letters of introduction to 
 persons in the West country, which he acknowledged. 
 Afterwards he went to tea at General Harpers. I wrote [*] 
 to M r . Gadsby at Washington to secure lodgings for 
 tomorrow, & having a bad cold retired early to bed. — 
 Thursday 25^. M r . Owen engaged one of the regular stages with 4 
 
 horses, & carrying 9 inside, to take our party of 7 persons & 
 baggage, to Washington for $28. We set out between 
 9 & 10 o'clock, changed horses three times, and arrived 
 at Washington 38 miles by 1/4 past 7. We stopped on the 
 road at a place called Harris' hut and M r . Owen, his 
 son & myself walked about a mile off the road through the 
 wood to a newly erected cotton manufactory [called Savage 
 Factory] belonging to M r . Amos Williams to whom 
 M r . Owen had a letter. M r . Williams has about a mile 
 square of land, for which he paid at the rate of 11 dollars 
 per acre. The woods contain fine oak & beech besides 
 other wood, and a large stream runs through it. He has 
 within 21/2 years built a large factory and several houses 
 for the workpeople, and he is busy now making a mill & 
 some [*] other buildings. He spins, weaves & bleaches. We 
 returned to the road by a footpath along the beautiful banks 
 of the stream. The day was remarkably fine. The 
 thermometer was in the shade at 70 . The road lay through 
 woods here & there opened & cleared. The country was 
 varied considerably by hills, and a few farms. The soil 
 was sandy & gravelly. M r . Williams said that with the most 
 imperfect tillage without any manure, the land would yield 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 215 
 
 above 20 bushels of wheat per acre. We stopped & dined 
 at a farm by the road side called [MS blank] [dinner 75 
 cents each.] M r . Flower, Miss Ronalds and M r . Hunter, put 
 up at the Indian Queen, and we went on to M r . Gadsby's 
 at Washington. 
 
 After breakfasting at the Ordinary where we met half Friday 26th. 
 a dozen gentlemen, M r . Owen took a hackney coach, at the ^ ovr * 
 rate of 5$ for the day & called on M r . Quincy Adam's the 
 secretary of state, where he was introduced to D r . Watkins 
 and engaged to be with M r . [*] Adams again tomorrow 
 at 10 o'clock. He then went to the President's who was 
 engaged with the secretary of the Navy, & appointed to 
 see M r . Owen tomorrow at 11 o'clock. From thence he 
 went to M r . Crawford, M r . Calhoun the secretary of 
 war, & M r . Tayloe. Afterwards we accompanied him to 
 M r . Addington the British Charge d'Affaires & left our 
 cards. [M r . Owen then called on the Attorney General 
 Wurt, and had a long & interesting conversation with 
 him.] While M r . Owen was paying the above visits, I went 
 with W m . Owen, called for M r . Flower, Miss Ronalds & 
 M r . Hunter, and went with them to view the Capitol, the 
 interior of which many workmen are still busily employed 
 upon. The building is a solid, lofty Edifice of stone, having 
 a large dome in the center, and two wings also with domes. 
 Here are the President's rooms, the chambers of the senate & 
 Representatives, the library, the several committee rooms, and 
 a magnificent circular Hall in the center ; around which are to 
 be placed historical paintings, descriptive of the [*] most in- (Friday 26th. 
 teresting events in the American history, such as the Declara- Nov ' r - contd ) 
 tion of Independence. In one gallery we remarked columns of 
 a new order of architecture formed from the Indian corn, 
 which had a very chaste appearance. Also fine pillars of 
 a polished marble resembling the pudding stone. The 
 Capitol stands on an elevated spot at one extremity of a wide 
 street at present planted with rows of poplars, and about 
 a mile long. At the other extremity of this street is the 
 President's house, a fine white stone palace placed between 
 two double buildings of brick in which are the public 
 offices. The President's Palace overlooks the Potomack 
 which is between one & two miles wide, and the long wooden 
 
216 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 bridge over it. The city is marked out on rather a flattish 
 country. The soil is a mixture of sand gravel & clay. The 
 houses which have already been built are of brick, & many 
 small & of wood. As the scale on which the city has been 
 planned is very extensive and as every one seems to 
 have [*] built at any point which suited him, the present 
 appearance of the city is extremely irregular & broken. The 
 surrounding country does not rise high. The cultivation of 
 the land does not appear good. There is very little wood 
 in the immediate neighbourhood of the city. What there 
 is appears stunted. On the distant lands, & on some hills 
 on the southern side of the Potomack there are woods, but 
 as at this season they look brown & bare, the panoramic 
 prospect is uninteresting. At some distance down the 
 river & on the opposite side, smoke marked out to us the 
 situation of Alexandria. We dined at the Ordinary. Im- 
 mediately after dinner we called on M r . Flower, and went 
 with Miss Ronald's to see the wooden bridge which is nearly 
 a mile from the avenue. It is a mile & a quarter long & 
 between 30 & 40 feet wide. It is built with large & strong 
 timbers & oaken planks in a substantial manner with [*] 
 drawbridges for the passage of vessels. There is extremely 
 little trade in this place. A space of ten miles square in 
 a central situation was ceded for the purposes of govern- 
 ment, & called the District of Columbia, but it is neither 
 a good soil nor a situation where a large city would be likely 
 to grow. — The influence & expences of the government are 
 producing some activity in the place, & the people are building 
 rapidly in various parts of this new capital. On our return 
 to tea with Mr. Flower, D r . Watkins & his son called. After 
 tea M r . Owen called on M r . Reynolds* [senator for the State 
 of Tennessee] a friend of Dr. Price, & engaged to breakfast 
 tomorrow with him ; and on General Wingate whom he did 
 not find at home. The thermometer stood in the shade this 
 morning between 10 & n o'clock at 56 . The day was 
 calm, but cloudy. About 7 oclock in the evening it began 
 to rain, and we had for a short time a heavy shower. 
 Saturday 27th. This morning the thermometer was at 9 o'clock 66° in 
 
 Nov. the shade. It was calm & cloudy, but [*] between 9 & 10 it 
 
 cleared up, and a hot sun burst upon us. Mr. Owen went 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 217 
 
 out to breakfast with M r . Reynolds. W m . Owen & myself 
 
 remained at the hotel to write letters. I wrote to M rs . Bridges. 
 
 About 12 o'clock we went out. In front of the Presidents 
 
 house we met M r . Owen. He had been with M r . Quincy 
 
 Adams, and at 1 1 o'clock with the President, whom he said 
 
 was a plain & intelligent man. He observed to M r . Owen 
 
 that this country gave more scope for improvements of every 
 
 sort than any other. — M r . Owen called at the Attorney 
 
 General's office, & introduced us to him. He is a tall, 
 
 stout & middle aged person, very affable in manner. 
 
 M r . Owen remained with him while \V m . & myself walked 
 
 to the Indian Queen hotel (Brown's) to bring Hunter to 
 
 visit the Chocktaw & Chickasaw chiefs who are at present 
 
 in Washington having come to transact business with the 
 
 President. Hunter was not well enough to come out. We 
 
 therefore returned to M r . Owen, called with him on 
 
 M r . Reynolds who went & introduced us to the Chiefs. 
 
 There were three or four elderly men of the red Indian 
 
 race. They had strong features & expressive countenances, 
 
 but were quite in masquerade [*] being dressed in an (Saturday 27^. 
 
 awkward & shabby European costume. The principal C0Dt •' 
 
 person was about 50 years old. He called himself General 
 
 Pushamattaha. There were three or four other persons 
 
 present ; tw r o of whom they told us were Chocktaws educated 
 
 in English schools. They looked very much like sunburnt 
 
 Americans. We walked round the circle, shook hands with 
 
 them all & then took our seats. The General made a sort 
 
 of speech which the interpreter explained to be a welcome 
 
 to us. M r . Owen then told them that he had come 3000 
 
 miles from home, that many of his countrymen wished well 
 
 to their fellow creatures the Indians, and were anxious to 
 
 promote a general peace among the several tribes, that their 
 
 race might not be extinguished, as they had learnt to admire 
 
 many points of their character. He added that he hoped 
 
 before his return to Europe to make known to the Public a 
 
 way of bringing children up & reforming Society, so that 
 
 all persons might be trained to have whatever is good both 
 
 in the Indian & European characters, and to be without [*] 
 
 all that is bad in them. One of the chiefs replied that they 
 
 liked extremely his talk, that they were now so surrounded by 
 
218 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 the civilized people, that they knew they could not long 
 remain in existence if they did not acquire the best parts of 
 their knowledge & habits; that he had thought for some 
 time in the manner that M r . Owen had been speaking, & he 
 was glad now to get a little more information in that 
 direction. He added that they had sent several of their 
 children to different parts of the U. States to learn the 
 useful arts, & he pointed to the two young men as proofs 
 that Red Indians could be brought up to appear like the 
 White people. — They all appeared pleased, though their 
 manners are silent, reserved & serious. The principal chief 
 had on a sort of blue uniform with two large gold epaulettes, 
 another was dressed in blue with a large cloak over his 
 dress, made of a Stuart tartan, and a third had on a large 
 blue greatcoat with capes. It is to be regretted that the 
 Indians should in the first instance, acquire their first 
 knowledge [*] of the white people from the rudest of this 
 people, and deform themselves by attempting to wear a 
 costume for which their habits are unfitted, which in no way 
 becomes them, and of which they see the worst patterns for 
 imitation. — The interpreter was a white proprietor of many 
 hundred head of oxen horses & hogs. He said that he had 
 resided 40 years in their neighbourhood, and much preferred 
 their honesty, sincerity friendship & behaviour, to those of 
 the white settlers. — We met Major Smith & one or two 
 other gentlemen settlers from their neighbourhood with 
 them. The Major appeared, an open hearted active minded 
 man ; he very cordially hoped we would call & see him- 
 self. — As we were coming out Miss Ronalds, M r . Flower & 
 Hunter, arrived to pay them a visit. Hunter afterwards told 
 me that he had an agreeable chat with them, though it was 
 by means of the interpreter, as he could not speak a word 
 of their language. They told him that they had been much 
 pleased with M r . Owen. Hunter [*] said that he had felt 
 quite uneasy to set out on his journey w r est ever since his 
 conversation with them ; that it had produced an anxious 
 feeling in his breast, 'Which,' said he, turning to the inter- 
 preter, 'You I am sure can well understand/ He added 
 that he had never felt so pleasantly at home as with them, 
 since he left his own people. — We then called on General 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 219 
 
 Wingate ; he was not at home but we were admitted by 
 
 M rs . Wingate, the wife of his brother. Here we met her 
 
 mother and a young lady, and two elderly gentlemen. While 
 
 we were there, M rs . Adams & two daughters came in. 
 
 M rs . Adams is a thin, formal person. The daughters are 
 
 unaffected girls. One of them said that it was a novelty 
 
 and a very agreeable one in their country, to see English 
 
 travellers visiting America. M rs . Wingate remarked that 
 
 the few who had hitherto visited them had very unfairly 
 
 spoken of them. — M rs . Wingate is a stout, lively and 
 
 pleasant person. On coming away she expressed a hope of 
 
 seeing us often on our return to Washington, and added 
 
 that she should receive me [*] quite in a clannish manner. (Saturday 27th. 
 
 We had been speaking of the Scotch Highlanders & Burns Noyr - contd ) 
 
 the poet, whose poetry seemed to accord with her feelings 
 
 as much as with those of some highland Ladies. — [The 
 
 party were General & M rs . Dearborne & their daughter 
 
 M». Wingate and Mr. Wingate.] We returned to the hotel 
 
 where we dined at the table d'hote. After dinner we 
 
 went & called on D r . Watkins. [& called on M r . Wallenstein 
 
 who was not at home.] I left M r . Owen there & went with 
 
 W m . Owen to the Marine Barracks, a mile east of the 
 
 capitol to call on M r . Richard T. Achmutz for whom I had 
 
 a letter from young Abram Ogden. He was dining with 
 
 the Colonel. I therefore left the letter & my card & returned 
 
 for M r . Owen; with whom we called at Williamson's hotel 
 
 on Mr. & Mrs. Tichnor, & Mr. & Mrs. Everett & Miss Emma. 
 
 They are very agreeable & interesting people. They go 
 
 from this to Monticello, M r . Jefferson's. M r . Tichnor gave 
 
 us all a pressing invitation to visit him at Boston. We then 
 
 went to M r . Tayloe's. M r . Owen went in and found a 
 
 pleasing old gentleman & his family. We returned to tea 
 
 at the hotel. [Jules de Wallenstein secretary to the Russian 
 
 Legation M r . Addington, the British charge M r . Wingate, 
 
 W m . Ruggles, & D r . Stoughton, called today. — ] [We met 
 
 M r . Wallenstein with M r . Tichnor & his party, & were 
 
 introduced to him.] At 7 o'clock M r . Owen went to 
 
 M r . Calhoun's evening party. He [*] returned about 
 
 10 o'clock, having spent the evening in a tete a tete with 
 
 M r . Calhoun, whom he considers a man of considerable 
 
220 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Sunday 28 th . 
 Nov r . 
 
 Monday 29 th . 
 
 Nov r . 
 
 genius and extensive speculator into the progress of events. 
 
 The Stage to the west left this City at 3 o'clock this 
 morning. As another would not start before Tuesday, it 
 was determined that we should hire hackney coaches to take 
 us in two days to Hagers Town where we should get into 
 the line of road from Baltimore to Wheeling, & find stages 
 to take us forward. Having a quantity of baggage with 
 us, we found it necessary to hire three coaches ; the rate of 
 charge was 6$ a day for each, including every thing, and 
 calculating on two days going and two days for the return 
 of the coaches. While we were preparing to set out 
 IA Achmutz of the Marines, for whom I last night left a 
 letter, called and expressed his wish to shew us Washington 
 & its environs on our return. He appeared a genteel 
 young [*] officer. — About half past one o'clock we started 
 from the City, leaving a portion of our baggage in 
 M r . Gadsby's care. A short distance from the city we 
 ascended the heights to the west of the subburbs called 
 Georgestown, from whence we had an extensive view of 
 the city, its environs and the course eastward of the 
 Potomack. The view was strikingly picturesque. Thence 
 we passed through a moderately cultivated country by an 
 indifferent road through Rockville to Clarksburgh distant 27 
 miles, where we arrived at half past 8 o'clock. The latter 
 part of the road was more hilly and deep, and the quantity 
 of cleared & cultivated became less & less. From some of 
 the rising grounds we had extensive view r s of hills and dales 
 of tolerable soil, mostly sandy & gravelly, and covered with 
 wood. The scene was pleasingly varied by farms on the 
 sides of the hills. The inn at Clarksburgh is a small [*] 
 farm. W T e had a good supper & good though plain beds. 
 
 The day beginning to break a little after six o'clock, we 
 again started, and passing through some hilly & woody 
 country by a bad road over the South or Blue ridge, we 
 reached Fredericktown 15 miles distant between 10 & 11 
 o'clock. The air was mild, but it was cloudy, and we had 
 a slight mizzling rain. Some of the points of view were 
 extremely picturesque. Fredericktown appears a thriving 
 little place, and being on the Baltimore high road, carries 
 on a good deal of business. At Talbots inn we had a good 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 221 
 
 breakfast and were well served. Between 12 & one we 
 continued our route by the high road to Hagers town, 
 crossed the north Ridge from which we had several exten- 
 sive views of hills & vallies covered with wood, and reached 
 Hagers town 27 miles a little before 1 1 o'clock at night. — We 
 stopt 12 miles before we reached Hagers town at a small 
 village called Boonsboro, where we had supper. At Hagers 
 town we drove to the Stage Office Hotel, where [*] we (Monday 29th. 
 learnt that the only conveyance by which we could continue Nov r . cont<3) 
 our journey, was the accommodation line stage, which was 
 to set out at 4 o'clock in the morning. This line of stages 
 had been established to run by the National road from 
 Baltimore to Wheeling, and stated to be for the purpose of 
 giving travellers more rest & taking more baggage than the 
 mail coach. We however found that by slow driving they 
 got every evening so late to the end of the day's journey 
 as to afford us very little time for rest before the hour of 
 starting the next morning. Another high road west runs 
 from Philadelphia through Chambersburgh & Bedford to 
 Pittsburg. The distance from Hagerstown to this line of 
 road we found to be between 20 & 30 miles of a cross 
 road, and that no stages or coaches could be obtained to take 
 us across. We therefore settled to proceed by the Wheeling 
 Stage in the morning; fare 9$ each to Little Washington 
 where we proposed to cross to Pittsburg. The national road 
 has been [*] made at the expence of the whole state. 25,000$ 
 were voted by Congress last session for its repair. — 
 
 We were called at half past 3 o'clock, we dressed without Tuesday 30^ 
 washing, and started in the stage. Our party consisted of Nov r . 
 ourselves, 7 in number, and 3 other passengers. The 
 carriage was a four wheel spring waggon having a wooden 
 top and leathern sides & back, made to roll up in fine 
 weather. It contained a back seat, 3 benches & a drivers 
 seat, made to carry 3 passengers each; and was drawn by 
 four horses. This sort of vehicle is of Dutch construction. 
 The horses were of Dutch breed. We travelled by a newly 
 repaired road through a hilly & woody country, very little 
 settled except in a few places by the road side. [Our road 
 lay for some miles along the left bank of the Potomack, the 
 vale of which is extremely rich and picturesque; broken & 
 
222 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 high banks & hilly sides covered with fine timber. The 
 river is not ioo yards wide & very shallow.] We breakfasted 
 at Handcock about 1 1 o'clock 27 miles. It is a small 
 place, but we were well served. We crossed a high ridge 
 of mountain by a good winding road. This ridge is called 
 sideling hill. On the western side of it the vale is deep & 
 covered with wood. We next crossed another similar ridge 
 called Town hill. From the sides & top of both these [*] 
 ridges the scenery is wild and beautiful. The wood is thick 
 and the timber of large dimensions, consisting of several 
 varieties of oak, of sycamores, hiccories, sugar trees, a few 
 beaches and elms, persimmons, chesnut & walnut trees. Some 
 pines & cedars were scattered here & there through the 
 woods, giving a pleasing variety to the brown & red 
 appearance which they assume at this season of the year. — As 
 the road was continually ascending & descending steep hills, 
 and as besides being a heavy load in the Stage, we usually 
 went 15 or 16 miles without changing horses, our rate of 
 travelling hardly exceeding 3 miles an hour.* [*The morning 
 fog cleared off and we had warm & cloudless day to brighten 
 our prospect & animate the surrounding scenery.] Hunter & 
 myself enjoyed walking over these well covered hills, and 
 often stood admiring the beautiful scenery entirely the work 
 of Nature's hand. Accustomed as he had been to the 
 Indian's life amidst the luxuriance of natural vegetation, and 
 far removed from the artificial arrangements and habits of 
 our white brethren, [*] and taught as I had been among 
 the highlands of my native country to admire their sublime 
 but simple beauties ; our sentiments mutually accorded, and 
 we felt no want of farms & the uncouth habitations, archi- 
 tecture & habits of what is vaguely styled civilization to 
 stiffen the charming landscape, or check our flow of 
 spirits. [On the side of these hills, Hunter pointed out to 
 me a variety of plants & named the trees. He pulled up 
 some of the sprouts of the sassefras tree by the roots, of 
 which we got some tea made which had a high & delightful 
 flavour. He pointed out the American wild tea-plant with 
 its red berry. We met a stage going east with some of the 
 Senators in it, who called out to us & made enquiries how 
 the election was going on. — ] We reached the dining place 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 223 
 
 between 5 & 6 o'clock. As it was so late we both dined & 
 supped at M r . Slicer's farm, and by moonlight crossed 
 Nicholas mountain to Cumberland, a flourishing small 
 town 66 miles from Hagers Town, lying in a Deep and 
 picturesque valley. We got in a little before 1 1 o'clock. The 
 inn was very comfortable considering the remote situation 
 of the place, and the steepness of the mountain communica- 
 tion to it. It being night time, we saw too little of the place 
 to be able to describe it. — One advantage of the inns in this 
 country is [*] that, owing to an abundant supply of fuel, (Tuesday 30* . 
 several rooms have large fires constantly burning in them ; so 
 that a traveller arriving at any hour or in any weather, finds 
 himself at once in a snug place for warming & drying himself. 
 Besides this, provisions being likewise every where in 
 profusion, his hunger and thirst are readily & quickly satisfied. 
 
 Here we changed our spring waggon for a nine inside Wednesday i«t 
 coach with leathern sides to roll up, & carrying one or two Decr - 
 on the drivers seat outside. The coach was small for our 
 number, now consisting of only two gentlemen besides seven 
 selves ; M»\ Beebee of the State of New York, and Mr. Kurd 
 of Danville Kentucky. We started at 6 o'clock. The road 
 lay sometimes along deep hollows thickly filled with lofty 
 trees. Again it ascended steeps & crossed ridges of hills, 
 thus rendering our progress slow though extremely varied 
 and romantic. Hunter & myself soon got down from our 
 coach and walked in front. The morning was foggy, so 
 that we could not see above a hundred yards in [*] any 
 direction. We overtook a waggon with some men women & 
 children on foot, all emigrating from the east to the state 
 of Ohio. It is the practice with these emigrants to remain 
 till the crops are ripening on their farms, then sell every 
 thing as it stands and cross the mountains to the West, with 
 the hopes of a larger and better establishment in a new 
 country. The few families we overtook on our way, were 
 rather late in their movements. We learnt from them that 
 the crops this season had been good. We found them plain 
 and friendly in their manners, and quite as ready to answer 
 any questions as to put them. Our breakfast place was at 
 the small scattered village of Alleghany at the bottom of 
 the western descent of Savage Mountain, and 14 miles 
 
224 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 distant. As the road had been a constant succession of high 
 hills & deep vales, Hunter & myself easily reached this 
 halting place at 10 o'clock, a few minutes before the Stage. 
 The Inn was a small farm house, but we were immediately 
 served with a good breakfast of coffee, & tea, made [*] from 
 the sassefras root which Hunter had got during our walk, 
 wheat bread & rye bread, broiled chickens, preserved pears & 
 apricots, wild honey, venison steaks & sausages. — The 
 scenery was now somewhat changed. The country was 
 flatter and covered with forests of lofty pines, many of 
 which were from 130 to 150 feet at least high. — Our 
 ^/weather continued bright, & warm. — Every day we had met 
 droves of hogs, driving from the West to the Eastern 
 markets. Some droves consisted of 500 or 600 hogs ; divided 
 into 3 or 4 bodies. They travelled at the rate of from 8 to 
 10 miles a day. Some would be 50 days on their journey. 
 Their food was Indian corn, which they procured at the small 
 farms & halting places by the road side. The wholesome 
 food of the forest & the Indian corn, render the hog's flesh 
 much sweeter & delicate than the English feeding, and not 
 being over loaded to an unnatural & unhealthy degree with 
 fat, they displayed a vigour & intelligence, which we rarely 
 remark among them in England or Ireland. — After travelling 
 the [*] rest of the day, through the same sort of country, we 
 came a little before sun set to the descent into an extensive 
 vale covered with forest of various sorts of trees. In a deep 
 hollow & built on the small river Youghiogeny, stands the 
 small town of Smithfield. Here we drove up to an Inn at 
 the door of which was standing General Jackson's carriage. 
 The general at the moment of our arrival was at the door 
 of the inn surrounded by almost 20 of the people. He is an 
 elderly healthy looking, thin person, with a high forehead, 
 grey hair and stern but pleasing expressive countenance. [He 
 was dressed in a plain blue surtout] M r . Owen introduced 
 himself & us to him, as having a letter of introduction from 
 M r . Clinton to the general. He travelled in his own 
 carriage with his wife, another general & his wife, & a 
 M r . Donaldson & his wife. — M r . Beebee was acquainted 
 with the latter gentleman, & therefore learnt from him that 
 the general had 101, Adams 58, & both Crawford & Clay 
 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 225 
 
 much less. — We had a very good dinner, and a [*] variety 
 of well cooked dishes. We proceeded over a steep ridge of 
 hills, called Sugar loaf mountain, across a romantic vale, and 
 over the Laurel ridge to Union town, where the Stage usually 
 stops for the night. — Having, however started two hours 
 later in the morning than the usual time, and having on 
 account of the load, come at a slow rate we did not reach 
 Union till between n & 12 at night. It was agreed by all 
 of us to proceed without resting. The baggage was therefore 
 removed into a stage, similar to the one which brought us 
 from Hagers town to Cumberland, and taking a little 
 tea & refreshment we prepared to continue our journey. The 
 Laurel ridge is one of the highest. The ascent from the 
 east is about a mile, but the western descent is about three 
 miles. It is thickly covered with woods. The glen by the 
 sides of which the road wound down the mountain were 
 wild, deep, precipitate & rocky. The country to the west 
 of this ridge, though broken by ridges of hills & much 
 wooded, yet is comparatively flat, cleared and cultivated. — 
 The greater number of the inhabitants have the appearance 
 & habits of the Dutch to a great degree, the original settlers 
 having come [from] Holland & the northern parts of 
 Europe. Dutch farms are distinguishable by their [*] ex- 
 tensive & well kept barns, but the cultivation generally 
 appeared imperfect and very incomplete. — 
 
 At one oclock in the morning we again set out by the 
 light of a clear starry night & bright moon. The country 
 through which we now passed was not so hilly or woody, and 
 appeared better inhabited. About 1/2 past 4 we reached 
 Brownsville 12 miles distant, on the banks of the Mononga- 
 hela. A scattered village. Here we had to rest our selves 
 in but a poor inn on chairs till 7 o'clock, the breakfast hour 
 for the stage. They gave us a very good breakfast after 
 which we crossed the ferry in the stage and continued on our 
 journey over small hills & vales, generally cleared, and 
 tolerably cultivated. A great part of the population of this 
 part of the country is of Dutch extraction, as appears from 
 the appearance of the people, and [*] their farms. The 
 land is of a richer soil than that among the highlands 
 through which we passed ; or at least from cultivation 
 
 (Wednesday I st . 
 Dec r . cont d .) 
 
 Thursday 2*"*. 
 Dec r . 
 
226 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 appeared so, to our hasty & superficial observation. We 
 reached Washington before 2 o'clock. It is 22 miles from 
 Brownsville & 229 from Washington City. The town is of 
 middle size & contains 4 or 5000 inhabitants. It appears 
 at a distance rather black & uninviting, as the scenery around 
 is bare, and as many of the houses are built of wood, which 
 being unpainted, become in a short time of a dark colour. 
 We parted from our two travelling companions with unusual 
 regret, good wishes, and mutual invitations, and after dinner 
 they continued on by the same stage to Wheeling. — The 
 description of the ways of an inn in this part of the 
 country [*] I must reserve for my leisure moments. — We 
 soon retired to bed, slept some hours, rose to tea and again 
 retired to rest, till we were called at 4 o'clock for the 
 Pittsburg mail stage. I must remark that in the evening 
 while I was shaving, a stage company arrived & were shewn 
 into the same room. One of the party was a young female, 
 daughter of a general whose name I cannot now call to 
 mind. While I in my shirt was shaving in front of a pier 
 glass, she stood behind me arranging her hair, while in 
 another part of the room W m . Owen was washing himself. 
 Friday 3 r <*. We left Washington between 5 & 6 o'clock in the mail 
 
 ^ ecr - stage for Pittsburgh. Our own party & baggage filled the 
 
 stage. The night had been rainy, the road in consequence 
 (Friday 3 r <*. was very slippy. The country [*] through which we passed 
 
 Dec r . contd ) W as very hilly, but more inhabited and of a richer soil. The 
 
 road from Washington to Pittsburgh, is not yet completed 
 as a high road, therefore we proceeded slowly, though we 
 had strong horses & a good driver. The distance is 25 
 miles. We stopped half way to change horses and break- 
 fast. We reached Pittsburgh about 1/2 past 2 o'clock. 
 [M r . Flower & Miss Ronalds went to M r . Davis's hotel on 
 the river bank. The rest of the party came to Darlington's 
 in front of the stage hotel, M r . Stewart's.] This town is 
 situated on a point of land between the two rivers Alleghany 
 & Monongahela, over both of which there are wooden 
 covered bridges. The left bank of the Monongahela, is a 
 steep cliff, and contains near the surface large veins of 
 excellent coal, good lime stone & free stone. The town is 
 enveloped in smoke, looks dirty, and the inhabitants do not 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 227 
 
 seem to enjoy either a healthy or comfortable [*] existence. 
 For a mile & a half before we reached the bridge of the 
 Monongahela to cross over, the road became very deep & dirty 
 in consequence of the constant passage of the coal carts, and 
 all the houses appeared poor & miserable. We saw four 
 large well painted steam boats lying by the side of the 
 town. The bridge is 1/4 of a mile long. The timbers & 
 planks to sustain its weight, and support the roof, are 
 formed into arches tied by iron cramps, and strengthened 
 by iron bars. — We were too late for the public dinner which 
 is at one o'clock, but we were soon provided with a good 
 one ; after which we went out with M r . Owen who wished to 
 lose no time in delivering two letters from M r . Clinton to 
 M r . Ross & M r . Baldwin lawyers of this town, and two other 
 letters to Mr. Mc. Donald & Mr. Forward [*] likewise 
 lawyers. We only found M r . Baldwin at home. We 
 remained & drank tea with him & his wife. He is a great 
 friend to protection of industry, and union of exertion. He 
 has been a member of congress, and exerted himself much to 
 promote the industry of the states. [M r . Baldwin informed 
 M r . Owen that M r . Rapp was in Pittsburgh; he sent to 
 inquire for him, he was out ; but M r . Baldwin said he would 
 introduce him to M r . Owen the next day.] On our return 
 M r . Owen went with M r . Speakman to call on M r . Bakewell 
 a Unitarian and glass manufacturer. — During his absence 
 Mr. Mc. Donald called. 
 
 Mr. Owen went to breakfast with M r . Bakewell, after Saturday tf\ 
 which he returned to the inn with M r . Rapp. M r . Ross called Decr * 
 and M r . Sutton a friend of M r . Rapp. It was then settled 
 that we should set out to visit M r . Rapp's new settlement, 
 called Economy, between 12 & one o'clock. M r . Owen 
 went in M r . Rapp's carriage. Hunter & myself [*] rode 
 on M r . Rapp's and M r . Baldwin's horses, W m . Owen 
 went with M r . Sutton in his gig, and a hired coach took 
 Mrs. Sutton, Miss Ronalds & M r . Flower. We crossed from 
 the town to the right bank of the Alleghany & Ohio by a 
 covered wooden bridge 400 yards long, similar to the one 
 by which we entered Pittsburgh. The day was clear & 
 frosty. Our road, a narrow cross road, lay along the right 
 bank of the Ohio. We descended about 18 miles a very 
 
228 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 picturesque vale, the ground on each side rising in hills, 
 covered with wood. There were many woody islands in the 
 river and here and there the banks spread out into flats of rich 
 land, some of which had been cleared & cultivated. Almost^ 
 every house passed had a sign to mark it as a tavern for 
 travellers. Hunter and myself stopped at one of them. The 
 (Saturday 4th. interior was dirty and [*] poor. We walked into a room 
 Dec r . contd) where the master of the house sat shoe making. We called 
 
 for some cider & had a little conversation with him. He 
 was a jocular politician & had his hits at the governments of 
 the world. He spoke very severely of the British government 
 using the Savage Indians to attack the inhabitants of the 
 U. States. This he styled a barbarous proceeding. One of 
 his sons had gone down the river to take possession of some 
 lots of land on the Arkansas river which he had purchased 
 from American soldiers. — As the road was very bad we did 
 not reach M r . Rapp's new settlement Economy till dark. It 
 lies on a flat of some hundred acres on the right bank of 
 the Ohio. He purchased it last spring, and immediately 
 moved up to it with about 100 of his [*] people. It was 
 covered with wood. He therefore encamped them on the 
 ground, cut down part of the timber & commenced building 
 a new town. This he laid off in streets. The houses are 
 two stories high & stand a considerable distance apart 
 from one another. When we arrived we were shewn into 
 M r . Rapp's house which is much like the rest, though he 
 may as their Patriarch have some conveniences that are 
 not general among them all. We were introduced to his 
 daughter, two or three other females who waited upon 
 us. and to M r . Baker who seems to act as his steward or 
 secretary and interpreter. They were all decent both in 
 dress and manners ; but both plainer & less characterized by 
 mildness than the Shakers. Several old & young men came 
 in after supper and were introduced to us. M r . Rapp [*] 
 conversed with M r . Owen on the subject of forming human 
 character, and seemed to have in many respects entertained 
 similar opinions. He spoke of his having set mankind an 
 example of the advantages of union in creating abundance 
 with easy labour, & of practically teaching friendship to 
 society. He said that he held the doctrine that mind or 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 229 
 
 spirit could not be without matter or body, and observed that 
 
 by refining upon the subject, mankind had lost the substance 
 
 while grasping the shadow, and omitted to live in harmony 
 
 on earth while they looked forward to such a state in 
 
 heaven. M r . Owen shewed his plans, and the party were 
 
 much pleased with them. M r . Rapp said that M 1 '. Owen 
 
 should have come a little sooner, before so much had been 
 
 done. M r . Owen replied that the present buildings would serve 
 
 the people to live in while they were erecting [*] others on 
 
 the new plan; and that if they wished to do a good to 
 
 the world they might, as soon as one establishment was 
 
 built, advantageously dispose of it to the public who 
 
 would, he was sure, immediately become anxious to purchase 
 
 it, and then go on building others. No observations of 
 
 consequence were made by any of the Harmonists; they 
 
 appeared quite respectful & submissive, and by their manner 
 
 shewed to us that M r . Rapp is quite their ruler & guide. — 
 
 About 10 o'clock we retired. Hunter & myself went to one 
 
 of the houses in front of M r . Rapp's. As every thing was 
 
 of recent erection, we were accommodated but in a temporary 
 
 manner in a room with four beds, one of which was occupied 
 
 by the driver of the hired coach, who seemed a decent well 
 
 disposed young man. Before we went to bed I had some 
 
 conversation with one of the people who told me that [*] the (Saturday $&. 
 
 Society were removing from New Harmony because it was Decl - cont<*) 
 
 too warm in summer. Another said that he really could not 
 
 tell why they changed their place of residence. 
 
 We breakfasted at 8 o'clock, after which a horn & a key Sunday 5*. 
 bugle summoned us to church in a large room, the upper Dec! - 
 floor of the house facing M r . Rapp's. At one end sat the 
 females, at the other the males, and in the middle M r . Rapp. 
 The service consisted of two chapters in verse sung as 
 Psalms by the whole congregation in good german style : and 
 a lecture from M r . Rapp on a few verses read out of the 
 bible. When he finished his comments on a verse, he would 
 turn & ask, It is true, do you understand? To which the 
 older ones would reply, we believe ; it is true. The subject of 
 the chapters sung by them, was about union & friendship, as 
 well as that of his lecture. He [*] gave W m . Owen a 
 copy of the book, which is a compilation of such senti- 
 
230 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 ments, extracted from different authors, or composed by 
 himself. — M r . Rapp speaking afterwards of his discourse, 
 observed that he would be ashamed to read a written discourse 
 on a subject worthy of his attention & consideration. The 
 people appeared to be from the age of 16 or 17 to 
 between 40 & 50. Some of the men might be still older & 
 younger but not much. M r . Rapp is a stout healthy active 
 old man of 67. He has a steady determined manner, but 
 very little of that amiable mildness, which a patriarchal life 
 and benevolent principles might be expected to produce. The 
 people appear steady, sober, good humoured & plain in their 
 manners. Their character & expression of countenance is 
 german. They do not appear very lively or intelligent ; but 
 of [*] this a stranger cannot after one day's acquaintance, be 
 expected to form a just estimate. The bugler played some 
 german airs in good style, and several of the men who could 
 talk english came round me & seemed much disposed to be 
 friendly and communicative. The women retired to their 
 houses as soon as they came out of church, & we could only 
 see one or two at a door or window. From living out of 
 the world's society, they seemed little acquainted or interested 
 with its affairs. Some of them remarked to me that they 
 had to labour & had therefore no time to go abroad or think 
 of other things, and when I observed that by union they 
 produced articles so easily as quickly to have their wants 
 abundantly supplied; they replied that they did not work 
 hard, but were always working at their leisure & just as they 
 liked it. I heard them talking of the Election of a President 
 of the U. States, and remarked [*] to them, that under 
 their way of life there could be no use for a president. "Oh, 
 "but the honor of it!" said some, "and," continued others, 
 "the world could not do without a head ruler, king or 
 "president." I did not reply to these remarks, it being 
 evident that the System of their association was to have a 
 ruling Father, to instruct all the members to reverence & obey 
 him, and to teach them that this mode of government must 
 be the best, and the only one which could last for any length 
 of time. M r . Owen had some conversation relative to the 
 nature of Man & the new views which he took of it and of 
 the proper arrangement of society. Though M r . Rapp 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 231 
 
 seemed to assent to them, yet there was evidently a difference 
 
 in his view of the subject ; and as the interpreting a new 
 
 subject is extremely difficult, M r . Baker expressed a wish 
 
 that M r . Owen's Ideas should be written down & correctly 
 
 [*] translated into German. M r . Owen then gave him his (Sunday 5th. 
 
 papers N°. 1 & 2. We were served with a good dinner Dec r . cont^) 
 
 between 11 & 12 o'clock, and then returned to Pittsburgh, 
 
 which we reached about 5 o'clock. A little snow had fallen 
 
 in the night. The day was cloudy and it was freezing 
 
 sharply. On the way we passed an unfinished Steam boat 
 
 belonging to the Harmonists which they were towing up to 
 
 Pittsburgh for the purpose of completing. It is expected 
 
 that their new settlement will be so far advanced as to 
 
 accommodate the whole of the Society next spring, when the 
 
 rest will move up to it in their own steamboat. — M r . Owen 
 
 asked M r . Rapp why they changed their abode. He replied 
 
 in rather a way to avoid the question, that this was their 
 
 third settlement, that they had completed a good town 
 
 and cleared & well cultivated a large tract of land which 
 
 they [*] had found in a state of nature, that they had less 
 
 now to do at New Harmony, wanted a new situation to work 
 
 upon, and he added half smiling, That it had been foretold 
 
 to him that he should remove to this last settlement & die 
 
 here. — It would however appear from general report that 
 
 the Society, has found New Harmony unhealthy as well as 
 
 subject to heat & confined air ; arising from flat land, rich 
 
 vegetation & stagnant waters ; But of this subject hereafter. 
 
 In the evening M r . Bakewell & his son, M r . Baldwin, and 
 
 M r . Sutton, called & had a long conversation with 
 
 M r . Owen. — M r . Baldwin gave M r . Owen a printed copy 
 
 of his speeches in congress & the report of a committee on 
 
 trade and restrictions on commerce. M r . Sutton informed 
 
 me that M r . Baldwin was in congress, but finding that he 
 
 could make no impression on the house, he had for the last 2 
 
 years declined being returned member. M r . Sutton is 
 
 himself [*] a candidate & gave me his printed letter 
 
 recommending himself. — M r . Rapp has been 20 years in this 
 
 country. He brought but a small capital with him & from 
 
 3 to 500 people very poor. His first settlement was above 
 
 Pittsburgh. He sunk all his capital, & the merchants with 
 
232 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 whom he had transacted business, refused to give him 
 credit. M r . Sutton, however, who was at that time in great 
 business, advanced him such articles as he had occasion 
 for. The Society soon began to flourish, and in 10 years 
 time were enabled to purchase the Property of New Harmony 
 on the Wabash river. This they have now possessed for 10 
 years, and have become so rich that they have been able, 
 besides rendering New Harmony a complete town fitted 
 for 800 persons (their actual number) to purchase their 
 new property near Pittsburgh and build another town upon 
 it. We were likewise informed that M r . Rapp had lately 
 lodged 150,000$ in the Pittsburg bank, and it seemed to be 
 the impression among [*] those who had some knowledge 
 of their proceedings, that in a very few years they would be 
 the richest association in the U. States & wealthy enough 
 to buy a whole state. — M r . Speakman in the course of the 
 evening brought a friend in to tell M r . Owen that from his 
 personal knowledge New Harmony and its neighbourhood 
 were unhealthy, and that members of the Society had been 
 heard to say soon after their arrival there that they would, as 
 soon as their funds should permit, remove to another 
 situation. M 1 ". Speakman intended to start back to Phila- 
 delphia the next morning. A Baker of the name of M c Nevin 
 called in to see M r . Owen & wish him success. He gave him a 
 manuscript and asked him to peruse it at his leisure. — About 
 3 years ago a debating society was established in this town. 
 One of the questions debated was whether the Scriptures 
 were the Word of God. There were many speakers on both 
 sides of the question, and the subject sufficiently interested 
 (Sunday 5 th the [*] clergy to induce them to send some of their 
 
 Dec r . contd) dependents to defend their cause. McNevin & another 
 
 person spoke against the Scriptures and drew a strong party 
 with them. As these men were well considered for their 
 morality & general character, it was judged necessary to 
 stop their tide of success by prosecuting them on an old law 
 of Pensylvania, made while it was a colony & not since 
 repealed, which sentenced to fine & imprisonment for 
 speaking against the Word of God. McNevin's companion 
 was tried first, found guilty & sentenced to pay a fine 
 of 5$ & the costs. By this time the whole proceeding became 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 233 
 
 so unpopular, that the judge desired to terminate the 
 proceedings as quickly as possible. He discovered that the 
 law was confined to extempore harangues, and as M c Nevin 
 had written his discourse & then read it, the judge directed 
 the jury to clear him of the charge. The prisoner therefore 
 declined delivering a long defence which he had prepared; 
 but the jury brought him in so far guilty as to enable them 
 to sentence him to pay costs. M c Nevin was so irritated [*] 
 at this manoeuvre that he refused to pay them, and went 
 to prison. The business was soon hushed up, and he was 
 set at liberty. 
 
 A little before ten o'clock we left Pittsburg in the Monday 6* h . 
 Pennsylvania steam boat, drawing 3 1/2 feet of water. De c r . 
 There were other boats ready to go down the river, but as 
 the rise of water had been but inconsiderable they could not 
 set out. [As the night had been frosty, and as the waters of 
 the Alleghany and Monongahela, did not appear to be 
 rising, a general apprehension seemed to be entertained that 
 the Ohio would be stopped with ice in a day or two, & that 
 the other boats would find it difficult to get down the river 
 for some time. — ] M r . Sutton & M r . Bakewell were on the 
 river side to take leave of us. M r . Bakewell's second son 
 went in the same steam boat as far as Maysville. The owner 
 of the boat, M r . Hart, was on board. The Captain's name 
 was Cunningham. We had from 20 to 30 cabin passengers, 
 and 10 or a dozen deck ones. As the boat was of a small 
 size we were much crowded, and although it was snowing & 
 freezing the whole day, the cabin was disagreeably close & 
 heated. The table was cleanly served and amply provided. 
 Among the passengers were a M r . Turner & M r . Wilson, both 
 tradesmen [*] and great friends to the System of United 
 Interests and Education without reward or punishment. 
 M r . Wilson left us at Wheeling. He came in the same boat 
 for the purpose of conversing with M r . Owen. M r . Turner 
 had for some time belonged to a set of about 30 families in 
 Pittsburg who wished to join an Association, but had not 
 yet been able to understand how to set about such a new 
 arrangement. He had in his charge an Irish lady who 
 was going to join her friends who are established in 
 Cincinnati. A M r . & M rs . Drake & a young man, all 
 
234 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Tuesday 7 th . 
 Dec r . 
 
 (Tuesday 7 th . 
 Dec r . cont d ) 
 
 comedians, were likewise cabin passengers. Our rate of 
 going was from 8 to 9 miles an hour, but as the river was 
 shallow in several places, and as we had frequently to pass 
 through narrow channels between islands which were much 
 obstructed by logs and by sunken trees whose tops just 
 reached the surface of the water, the force of the steam 
 was often diminished so as to enable the helmsman to steer 
 clear of them. In the course [*] of our voyage down we 
 passed three steamboats, two of which were aground & the 
 third had come to anchor for want of water. In the evening 
 we passed Steubenville, 73 miles, where some passengers 
 landed ; and at night we reached Wheeling, 96 miles ; Here 
 we remained till the moon rose, and then continued our 
 course. The next morning, 6 or 7 miles above Marietta, we 
 passed a steam boat aground [(The Congress)]. — She had 
 left Wheeling on Friday last & was full of passengers, none 
 of whom w r ould our Captain take on board although they 
 very much wished it. We passed Marietta, 183 miles, soon 
 after breakfast. It seemed to be a flourishing little 
 place, and rapidly encreasing. The banks of the river were 
 every where hilly & woody w r ith flat and rich land forming 
 the vale through which it flowed. During the spring 
 floods, the river always rises above 20 feet higher than it is 
 in the autumn months. Sometimes its rise exceeds [*] 30 
 feet, when many farms & buildings on the water's edge are 
 much injured. The marks of the height to which the waters 
 sometimes reach, were visible on the banks, bark of the 
 trees and the bare roots of the varieties of trees which 
 thickly covered the river's banks. — [This evening M r . Drake 
 played on the violin & accompanied his friend who sang 
 several songs. About 1 1 o'clock at night we over took a 
 float, or barge, in which were M r . Alexander Drake & his 
 wife & children, Miss Drake, and one or two of their 
 company. They had been tired of waiting for the rise of 
 the river, & had started 9 days before us in this float. Taking 
 this party on board occasioned quite a theatrical bustle.] 
 [This afternoon we passed the Courier steam boat aground 
 in the narrow channel at Amberson's Island, 227 miles. — ] 
 Wood was taken in at Wheeling. We carried about six 
 cords at a time. A cord is 8 feet long & 4 feet wide & high. 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 235 
 
 The price of a cord was from i 1/4$ to 1 1/2$. This Wednesday 8th. 
 morning just before breakfast we ran along side a boat 
 fastened to the river side, loaded with wood, and took the 
 wood on board in a quarter of an hour. While this was 
 doing, some of the passengers landed and went into the log 
 house near the edge of the bank. Here we found the females 
 of a neat family, a mother & 2 daughters, in a large clean 
 room containing three beds. They were easy & simple in 
 their manners and very obliging. A large fire was blaz- 
 ing, & a pretty young woman sat knitting by the side of 
 it. A few acres of land were cleared around this dwelling, 
 and the whole was encircled to the river's side by a forest 
 of high trees. They [*] said that they were comfortable, but 
 that it was a lonely dwelling, far from society & bad roads 
 to all their neighbours. — A little before sunset we arrived at 
 Maysville, situated at the mouth of Limestone Creek, 441 
 miles. Here M r . Drake's party quitted us, as they were 
 to proceed thence the next morning to Frankfort through 
 Lexington. — M r . Drake, the father, emigrated to this 
 country from England 14 years ago. He now owns four 
 theatres, those of Lexington, Frankfort, Louisville and 
 Cincinnati. The eldest son's wife is cousin to the famous 
 little actress Clara Fisher. The second son's wife we were 
 told, was the best actress in the United States. They told 
 us that in Lexington is to be found the genteelest society in 
 the Western States, in Frankfort pleasant retirement; but 
 in Louisville abundance of gay & agreeable society. Balls 
 they said were constantly given, as well as good concerts, 
 there being several clever performers. Among the number 
 they mentioned a Spanish violin player, whom they 
 recommended us strongly to visit. Maysville is a thriving 
 town, beautifully situated on fertile land above the reach 
 of the [*] river floods, & inclosed by picturesque hills 
 covered with a fine forest of lofty timber. I had purchased 
 the Ohio & Mississippi Navigator, a small volume which 
 gives the distances, directions for the navigation of the 
 rivers, and describes the places situated on their banks. It 
 cost me a dollar and proved extremely well worth its cost. At 
 Maysville we took several passengers on board, & a 
 carriage & a couple of horses. Among the new arrivals 
 
236 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Thursday 9 th . 
 
 Bec r . 
 
 (Thursday 9* h . 
 Dec T . cont^) 
 
 were two Professors belonging to Nashville on the 
 Cumberland river in Kentucky [D rs . Chase & Lindsay & 
 their wives & children]. They had waited for 4 weeks at 
 Wheeling in constant expectation of the rising of the 
 river. At length when the frost came on, they became 
 alarmed at the prospect of both the land & water carriage 
 being stopped up, and set out by land. The[y] found the 
 Ohio road bad & with difficulty reached the river again 
 at West Union, where they crossed by the horse ferry boat 
 to Maysville. There are several horse ferry boats on the 
 river wherever towns are situated. — [very little snow had 
 fallen in this part of the country. Though the whole of this 
 day was cloudy, yet it was not freezing.] When the moon 
 rose we again set out. 
 
 A little before day-break we reached Cincinnati, 514 
 miles which is generally [*] considered the most flourishing 
 & best situated town on the west of the Alleghany mountains. 
 As soon as it was day, we walked through several of the 
 streets, which are well built, wide & drawn at right angles, 
 having a main street, broad-way, cross streets numbered 
 from the river inland, a market-place & town house, — In 
 this town there is a high, circular artificial mound of 
 earth, one of many w r hich are supposed to have been the 
 work of the original inhabitants of this country, before the 
 time of the Indians who have not been known to construct 
 any of these elevations. Their use seems to have been for 
 the burial of their dead. — Twenty one years ago the spot 
 on which Cincinnati stands was a forest. It is now inhabited 
 by 13,000 persons. — We left this place about 1 1 o'clock. The 
 morning was remarkably fine & the air mild. No snow was 
 on the ground. The hills in many parts rose from the margin 
 of the water, which flowed slowly on at the rate of about 2 
 miles an hour, reflecting on its smooth surface its woody 
 banks. We met a fine steam boat, Mexico, going up the 
 river. We stopped twice to [*] take in wood. We landed 
 and visited the people it belonged to. They resided in small 
 log houses, which looked lonely and poor. They complained 
 of sickness, fever & ague, occasioned by the cold mists rising 
 from the river. One family resident here about 5 years, was 
 not at all contented with its lot. The Mother said that the 
 
MACDONALB DIARIES 237 
 
 year after their arrival they would have returned to the 
 State of New York from which they came; but she had 
 thought herself too old to move about. They thanked us 
 for landing to see them, for they seldom had visitors. The 
 eldest daughter was asked if she never went to merry 
 meetings in the neighbourhood. She replied that there were 
 some occasionally, but that they were far off and very 
 difficult to gtt to as the roads were so bad. We wished 
 to have some milk & some apples, but though they offered 
 to give us some we refused to take them as they had but 
 a small stock for themselves. Thus in a country rich in 
 natural advantages, single families live in low circumstances, 
 and enjoy none of those comforts which they would so easily 
 secure to themselves, were they to [*] settle together in 
 larger numbers having a common interest, and bringing the 
 arts to their aid and intelligent & experienced managers to 
 organize their associations. [Upon leaving Pittsburg the 
 river passes between the States of Ohio & Indiana & Illinois 
 on the right bank, and Pensylvania, Virginia & Kentucky, on 
 the left bank.] In the course of the evening several of the 
 deck passengers were joined by some of the cabin ones, and 
 spent three or four hours singing merry songs. All the 
 females sang in turn, and though no elegance of manner 
 was shewn & no charming melody heard, yet natural good 
 fellowship and a friendly desire to please, made the time 
 pass away in a very social & agreeable manner. [The 
 weather was temperate. In the course of the evening it 
 became cloudy & began to rain. The rain though gentle 
 continued all night.] 
 
 About 4 o'clock this morning we arrived at Louisville, Friday ioth. 
 and at daybreak landed and went to M r . Allen's hotel called De c r - 
 Washington Hall. This is a large house and appears well 
 kept. As it was a rainy morning M r . Allen sent a carriage 
 down to the quai to bring the ladies up to his house. Hunter 
 having business at Shippingport, took a carriage and went 
 there direct. After breakfast M r . Owen went out to deliver 
 letters. He then went in a carriage to Shippingport, distant 
 2 miles and at the bottom of the Falls over which the Ohio 
 passes [*] from Louisville to Shippingport. When the 
 waters are high the steam boats can descend the Rapids ; but 
 
238 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 at this time they could not be passed. At Shippingport, 
 M r . Owen found a steamboat, the Favorite, which he was 
 told would start on Sunday next. All the births were 
 taken. — However it is probable that in a day or two after 
 the water is high enough for one to set out, that others 
 which are there, will be ready to set out. M r . Owen was 
 informed that births had been taken in the Favorite by the 
 English travelling M Ps, and that they were at present lodged 
 at Union Hall hotel in Louisville. — We sat down about 50 to 
 breakfast. At dinner there were about the same number. 
 However we dined in the ladies' dining room with the 
 two professors ; but this is not usual, & therefore not 
 agreeable. — M r . Turner introduced his partner M r . Reader. 
 We dined in the ladies dining room with M rs . Allan, wife 
 of the Master of the Hotel, some of her female friends, and 
 with D rs . Lindsay & Chase & their ladies. It is not customary 
 for gentlemen to dine in the ladies room, unless they are 
 married or belong to a ladies' party. After dinner we had a 
 short walk in the town, but as it was wet we soon returned. I 
 had some conversation [*] with a M r . Hogan, a merchant 
 who had been in Mexico relative to the affairs of Spanish 
 America. He thought that their physical force would protect 
 them, but he considered the mass of the people to be very 
 degraded in mind & feelings, though in many instances a 
 goodlooking race. The Mexican government at present is a 
 Military despotism, but it is introducing schools & en- 
 deavouring to educate the people, while the Priesthood are 
 greatly averse to such a proceeding and to a great degree 
 render all their efforts of no avail. — After tea M r . Owen 
 shewed and explained his Plans to the two Professors & their 
 ladies, who were much pleased and expressed a great wish to 
 see M r . Owen successful in convincing the public of the 
 utility of his plans and in inducing them to promote the 
 same. In the evening I had a conversation with a gentleman 
 who gave me the following return of the several States of 
 the Union, the number of votes which each had, and the 
 State of the poles of the four candidates for the next 
 presidentship (see the accompanying printed return) 
 Saturday nth. After breakfast I [*] went with Mr. Flower to call at 
 
 Union Hall Hotel upon the four M P's. They had, however, 
 
 Dec r . 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 239 
 
 gone out to the country to dine at Judge Ormsby's, 12 miles (Saturday nth. 
 from town. I then went and took a walk round the town Decr - contd ) 
 with W m . Owen. Louisville contains about 4000 inhabitants. 
 It is the resort of a great many strangers employed on 
 commercial business. There was a considerable bustle of 
 business going on. The town stands on a bank of sand 
 around which there is every appearance that the waters of 
 the Ohio passed before they formed their present passage 
 over the rapids. The principal street runs parallel to the 
 river, leading in one direction to Lexington & in the other 
 to Shippingport which is about 21/2 miles distant, being 
 a small dirty village by the river side just below the rapids. It 
 is here that the larger steamboats lay which trade down the 
 Ohio & Mississippi. At the back of the town of Louisville 
 and extending into the woods, are several large brick houses 
 and farms. [At half a mile from the town there are ponds 
 extending to the distance of 18 miles, which render the 
 place unhealthy.] Beyond these and in the woods the ground 
 is low & wet. There are built or building in the town, a 
 public hospital, episcopal baptist methodist & presbiterian 
 churches, and a market place. Some of the streets are 
 paved, & have several large houses; others are merely 
 marked out by palings and a few [*] scattered small houses 
 of wood. All the people appeared to be men of business & 
 tradesmen. This town being in the slave state of Kentucky, 
 we every where saw a great many black slaves. [M r . Owen 
 called on a M r . Jacobs who has a good brick house at the 
 back of the town; he also wrote part of a short outline of 
 the principles & practices which he proposes. In the evening 
 he went to a gentleman's party M r . Nielson's with M r . Thorn, 
 where he met M r . Dennison & La Broche. There was nothing 
 done but card playing which M r . Owen did not join in.] This 
 being the rainy season, the place seemed muddy & uncomfort- 
 able, but as the soil is sandy, the rain soon sinks in. We 
 understood that much dissipation prevails here, drinking & 
 gambling &c. This mode of life is one great source of ill 
 health. On the opposite side of the river which is nearly 
 a mile wide, stands the small place called Jeffersonville in 
 Indiana, from which there is a cross road through the woods 
 to Vincennes, distant 107 miles, and thence on to St. Louis 
 
240 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Sunday 12th. 
 Dec r . 
 
 Monday 13th. 
 Dec r . 
 
 on the Missouri. A 4 horse stage travels this road once 
 a week. It takes 4 days between Louisville & Vincennes. I 
 was told that the land on the Indiana side is not so rich or 
 valuable as on the Kentucky side of the river. At a distance 
 we could observe some rising lands in Indiana. — After 
 dinner we walked over some meadow land by the side of the 
 river between Louisville & Shippingport. We met Hunter 
 who pointed out to us the Honey Locust tree, covered with 
 strong prickles. It bears a long pod containing a substance 
 something resembling honey. He likewise shewed us a small 
 silk plant, bearing pods containing a substance of a silky 
 nature. This plant he had seen more in the interior growing 
 to a considerable size & covering a large extent of land. — In 
 the evening [*] I accompanied Hunter on board the Favorite 
 steamboat. I then learnt that she would not start till Monday 
 morning. Hackney coaches are in readiness all day long to 
 take passengers down to Shippingport. The fare is 25 cents 
 each. [This day was fine, & mild. The thermometer was 
 about 6o° in the shade.] 
 
 After breakfast M r . Owen shewed his plans to a General 
 Brackenridge & M r . Allan the Master of the house. They 
 much admired them. While M r . Owen called upon 
 M r . Dennison & the other M P's, W m . Owen & myself 
 went to the Presbiterian church, where we heard M r . Chase 
 preach. There were about one hundred of the congregation 
 present. They were plain, decently dressed people. The 
 day was rainy. A mist gathered over the river & for a short 
 time extended a little into the town. The temperature 
 was 61 °. In the evening the rain fell heavy. I wrote to 
 my uncle Lewis [ ?] — W T e inclosed our letters to Jeremiah 
 Thompson New York & paid the postage 25 cents for a 
 single letter, as I was informed that a foreign letter, although 
 the postage should be paid, would not be shipped unless 
 sent to some agent at a sea port, or the packet happened 
 to have a bag at the General Post office. 
 
 After breakfast we sent our baggage in a cart & went in 
 a stage down to Shippingport, and embarked on board the 
 Favorite. Captn Shelcross. This boat had been built 
 more [*] for freight than passengers, their being only 
 births for 4 ladies and 16 gentlemen. These had all been 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 241 
 
 taken for several days, and such a cargo of goods & sheep 
 had been taken on board that the vessel was nearly upset. We 
 did not get under weigh till about one o'clock. The day 
 was very fine and the scenery, though not hilly, appeared 
 extremely well. In consequence of the number of passengers 
 the dinner was quite a scramble. We had pleasant conversa- 
 tions with the English Travellers on board, and with a 
 variety of Americans who were descending the river on 
 business. D r . Chase & his wife were on board. There 
 was likewise a Passenger who had some slaves whom he 
 was taking to Market for sale. These poor beings did not 
 at first appear in a very good humour, but afterwards they 
 seemed to recover themselves, and I could not distinguish 
 between them & some others who were employed on board 
 as part of the crew. It is singular to a person with a 
 reflecting mind, to be for the first time in the midst of 
 fellow creatures, only differing from himself in colour & and 
 a character degraded by [*] unnatural treatment from (Monday 13th 
 birth, to see them treated like beasts going to market, and Dccr - contd) 
 to hear them as well as their masters and mistresses talking 
 of one another's value, who had bought and sold them & the 
 prices given. However the dealers in such goods may be 
 admitted into & fitted for civilized society, there can be no 
 doubt that their feelings must be greatly impaired, and and 
 their minds deranged by such barbarous and irrational 
 customs. At sunset we stopped to take in wood. We landed 
 on the Kentucky side, but only found one poor log house 
 and a poor family. They told us that sometimes when the 
 water rose very high, it passed over their land, and that 
 they had once seen a boat float in at the front door & out 
 at the back door of their house. — As the night was dark 
 we lay at this place till the moon got us. — As everything 
 was in confusion on board we got no tea, and only a 
 scrambling supper. After the births were occupied, beds 
 were made on the floor in a very imperfect manner for the 
 rest of the passengers, amounting in number to 19 persons. 
 I lay [*] with Hunter & W m . Owen on a bag of feathers, 
 with my cloak over me. — We descended this day only about 
 25 miles, our vessel being so heavily laden that she made 
 but slow progress. 
 
242 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Tuesday 14 th . 
 Dcc r . 
 
 Wednesday 15th. 
 Dec r . 
 
 About 3 o'clock we were again in motion. During our 
 stay, the water wheels had been cut to suit the depth of 
 water drawn by our boat ; this facilitated our motion so that 
 we went much quicker than the preceding day. The day 
 was extremely fine. The river was wider, the current very 
 little, and the banks nearly flat & covered with wood. [We 
 passed a pretty looking settlement on the right bank.] Very 
 little land on either side had been cleared. We ran about 150 
 miles & stopped at sunset on the Kentucky side to take in 
 wood. There several of us, Hunter, W m . Owen, M r . Stanley, 
 M r . Dennison, M 1 *. Wortley & myself, amused ourselves till 
 one o'clock in the morning making large bonfires in the 
 woods. We set fire to 3 large trees, and burnt one down. 
 W T e then roasted some beef steaks at the fires & drank 
 porter. The cottager on whose ground we were staid with 
 us, and amused himself much seeing [*] us clearing his 
 land for him. 
 
 About 4 o'clock the boat again set off. After a bright 
 starlight & frosty night, the sun rose with great brilliancy. 
 We proceeded at the rate of six or seven miles through the 
 water, besides the current of the river which varied from 
 one to two or three miles an hour ; but generally very 
 slow. The land on either side was low, and the river widened 
 in some places to half a mile. About 10 o'clock we passed 
 the* [*a neat settlement called Owensburg & soon after 
 the] mouth of the Green river which is a quiet stream, having 
 a large & long course into the interior of Kentucky — °[°we 
 passed some rich land on the left bank called the Walnut 
 ridge, & afterwards] stopped between 2 & 3 hours at a small 
 settlement on the right bank in Indiana called Evansville, 
 where some barrels of pork were shipped, & one or two 
 passengers taken on board. While this was doing we walked 
 about the place. It stands at a bend of the river on the edge 
 of the bank, which is higher here than any where in the 
 immediate neighbourhood and a little above the level of 
 the highest rises of the river. The view of the river is 
 pleasing, but on the whole the place has a dull and [*] un- 
 interesting appearance. The greater part of the settlement 
 consists of log houses, built in an irregular manner. There 
 are only a few hundred yards of land cleared in the rear 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 243 
 
 of the houses, beyond which a thick forest shuts out the 
 
 flat view. [Evansville is 27 or 28 miles from Harmonie by 
 
 a tolerable horse road through the woods.] Eight miles 
 
 lower down the river we passed another settlement of less 
 
 extent on the left bank, and soon after sunset came too close 
 
 to the right bank below Mount Vernon settlement, which 
 
 is of the same character as Evansville, only of a more recent 
 
 date & smaller. All these settlements we were told were 
 
 advancing but slowly, & we observed a silence & dullness 
 
 about them which seemed to confirm such an opinion. The 
 
 distance by water to Mount Vernon from Louisville is 
 
 nearly 300 miles, the river making several considerable 
 
 bends to all points of the compass ; — The fall of the river 
 
 is very little, therefore its current is slow. As the land 
 
 through which it winds is low & of a loose sandy clay, the 
 
 river washes the banks away, spreads wide forms a great 
 
 many islands, and has but an inconsiderable depth during 
 
 the low water. [*] It is then necessary that vessels drawing (Wednesday 15 th . 
 
 6 or 8 feet water should be careful to keep the deepest channel Dec r . contd) 
 
 and steer across the river where it bends. — We had supper 
 
 when we landed and were moderately put up at the inn. 
 
 About seven o'clock we rose breakfasted, and set out in 
 two four horse waggons for Harmonie. As the waggons 
 travelled slowly M r . Albers & myself walked forward. The 
 road lay through the forest. It crossed over a few trifling- 
 risings and then continued flat, sandy & muddy. Occasionally 
 we passed log houses with a few acres cleared around them. 
 The inhabitants replied to our questions in a friendly 
 manner; but living so much out of the world several 
 appeared shy & without animation. We crossed a creek 
 between 20 & 30 feet wide called Big creek, and after 
 walking two miles further we reached Springfield, a small 
 settlement surrounded by the forest. This is the county 
 Town. It is 8 1/2 miles from Mount Vernon & 7 1/2 from 
 Harmonie. The County is called Posie. It is 400 sq. miles 
 in extent. It consists of a square brick building for the 
 courthouse, [*] which stands in the center of a small square 
 of detached wooden buildings. One of these is an Inn kept 
 by a german of the name of Schnee. Here we ordered 
 dinner & waited for two hours expecting our party's 
 
 Thursday the 
 16th. Dec r . 
 
244 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 arrival; but they had taken a road to the left, which did not 
 pass through Springfield ; It was a mile shorter, though a 
 much worse road. — While we were waiting M r . Stewart 
 a lawyer came in & conversed with us. He told us that the 
 people of the county were dissatisfied at Springfield being 
 made the county town. Some wished it to be Harmonie, 
 others M. Vernon. It is likely to be as it is, while so much 
 disagreement prevails relative to the proper place for it. On 
 learning that our friends had taken the other road we 
 dined. M r . Schnee proposed accompanying us to Harmonie 
 on horseback, and taking turns to ride & walk. We gladly 
 accepted his company. From Springfield the road was a 
 little better. The timber in the forest was tall but not 
 enormously thick. We remarked large vines covering many 
 of the largest trees, stretching from the ground 40 or 50 feet to 
 the first branch on which they are fastened ; thus shewing that 
 these [*] trees & vines must have grown up together. The 
 forest was composed of varieties of oaks, of beeches, tulip 
 trees, white & black walnuts, [Dog-wood & ash] & mulberry. 
 The number of dead leaves & decayed trees made the soil 
 of a fat nature. We saw a great number of little birds, wood 
 peckers, some par roquets, and several covies of very tame 
 partridges. M r . Schnee told us that wild turkies & geese, 
 opossums, racoons & deer, were in abundance, and that two 
 fine venison hams would cost about half a dollar. Rattle 
 snakes are common, but no one has the least fear of 
 them ; they always give warning by their rattles, and then 
 children are very fond of running after them to kill them 
 which is easily done as they cannot move away fast and as 
 a blow from a small stick kills them. M r . Schnee said that 
 the climate is not very unhealthy, but that they are subject 
 to agues. The winter is not extremely cold nor the summer 
 oppressively hot. They have mosquitoes in the summer 
 time, but do not mind them much. — We met a person on 
 horseback who we learnt was Major General Wilson, the 
 mail contractor, himself carrying the mail as he was going 
 round his district making some new regulations. Halfway 
 from Springfield to Harmonie we came upon the Harmonie 
 grounds, good soil & waving land. In one or two places 
 the land had been cleared and log houses built. These farms 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 245 
 
 had been let to the country people, who [*] paid grain 
 rents — ten bushels an acre of Indian corn, and one third of 
 the crops of wheat. About one mile from Harmonie, we 
 opened upon the cleared lands, consisting of good sheep-walks 
 over roling ground & knolls. These lands are about an 
 hundred feet higher than the flat alluvial soil on the river 
 side on which the town of Harmonie is situated. From 
 this elevation we looked north west down upon the flat land 
 half a mile wide. About 3000 acres of land is cleared 
 around the village. In the back ground lay the Wabash 
 river about 100 yards wide, backed by the forest on its right 
 bank, & lost in the forests above & below the village. On 
 the side of the hills were the vineyards ; & to the left of the 
 road down to the village, lay meadows, orchards and a neatly 
 designed labyrinth. The village stood about a couple of 
 hundred yards nearer to us than the river on rather a more 
 elevated bottom, the space between being subject to inunda- 
 tion for a few weeks during the height of the floods in 
 March. This ground however is cultivated after the waters 
 run off & yield a fine produce. The ground on the right 
 and between the village & the hills was divided into corn 
 fields. The village consisted of four streets running towards 
 the river, & six crossing [*] these. In the middle was an (Thursday 16th 
 open space in which stood a wooden church with a Dec r . contd) 
 steeple, and close to it a large new f brick church, which I 
 afterwards learnt was built to replace the old one which was 
 not large enough. In various streets stood large & small 
 brick habitations, but the majority of the houses were either 
 log houses or small wooden ones. At the back of the houses 
 were gardens, all divided by wooden palings. The village 
 had a dark appearance, occasioned by unpainted wood 
 exposed to the air becoming of a dusky slate colour; but 
 the red bricks formed an agreeable contrast. To a traveller 
 just emerging from a forest where little or no improvement 
 has taken place, and remembering the many days he has 
 spent in wandering through a thinly peopled & badly 
 cultivated country, the view from these hilly pastures down 
 upon a rich plain, flourishing village, and picturesque river 
 winding through a magnificent forest, is highly gratifying. 
 Then are his [*] eyes opened to the benefits attending the 
 
246 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 union of numbers, and he hastens on with desire to enjoy 
 the society of beings who, having made so great an 
 improvement, he expects must be of a superior order. En- 
 tering the village we overtook two teams, and saluted the 
 drivers, who appeared plain, simple, hard working men. The 
 horses were small but handsome. The Inn is a large plain 
 built wooden house, standing on one side of the open 
 space. Near it is a large brick house belonging to M r . Rapp, 
 and another which is a public store or shop where all articles 
 are for sale. Here the country people from a distance round 
 come to deal, but they must pay ready money for every 
 thing. On the front of the Inn is painted Private Enter- 
 tainment, which enables the landlord to enforce a regulation 
 to turn out all irregular or drunken persons. Our party 
 had arrived at 2 o'clock & dined, & when we reached the 
 Inn we found that M r . Owen & his son had gone out with 
 M r . Frederick Rapp. I followed them & was introduced to 
 M r . Rapp who is a tail, rawboned, sallow complexioned, 
 serious & plain german. He wore a small [*] crowned 
 hat with a large brim over long brown hair, and a loose 
 grey surtout. He took us up to the top of his father's 
 house, from which we had a good view of the village. [The 
 village is about 600 yards long & between 400 & 500 yards 
 wide.] We then returned to the inn for the rest of the 
 evening. — We had tea & supper between 6 Si y o'clock at 
 which were two or three persons from the country, who 
 were stopping at the inn for the night. Among the number 
 was M r . Stewart from Springfield. 
 Friday 17th. [Temperature this morning 54 . It rained hard all 
 
 cr * night. The wind was easterly. It continued cloudy all 
 
 day.] After breakfast we accompanied M r . Rapp to visit 
 the two churches, and ascended to the top of the new one from 
 which we had a still better view of the village. [M r . F Rapp 
 informed us that the band of the village sometimes assembled 
 on the top of the church to play to the village.] Adjoining 
 to M r . Rapp's house is a garden in which the old gentleman 
 takes great pleasure to work. In the center is a small mound 
 of petre factions made at a spring on the Harmonie Property. 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 247 
 
 a 
 
 In the yard is a large lime stone slab, bearing the im- 
 pression of two naked feet and an irregular square drawn 
 seemingly by the point of a stick. This slab was found on 
 the banks of the Missouri not far from ^^___ 
 St. Louis by M r . Frederick Rapp who sent 
 a boat for it. He conjectures that at some 
 distant period while the materials of it were 
 in a soft state, an Indian [*] might have 
 stood there and drew the line marking the 
 irregular shape. These materials must have 
 afterwards been petrefied by some natural 
 process. The portion on which the impres- 
 sions are was cut off. — Adjoining to the gar- 
 den is a moveable greenhouse, made to pull 
 during the frosty weather over some fine orange & lemon 
 shrubs. Behind this is a lofty brick granary built in the ger- 
 man fashion, to keep the grain cool. There is another of wood 
 at one corner of the village, near which are three wooden 
 buildings, one a large barn, & thrashing machine moved 
 by 8 horses, another a cotton and woolen manufactory & dying 
 house, with a steam engine, and the third a cotton mill, worked 
 by an inclined circular plane moved by a horse & an ox. Under 
 the new church are two cellars for wine, cider & beer. Over 
 the church & under the roof is a large room, where the 
 population may meet when they give great entertainments ; but 
 the building is not yet finished. We afterwards went through 
 the granaries, the store, the barn & manufactories, and some 
 of the dwelling houses. The store is divided into several 
 rooms w r ell arranged. The manufactories are small and do 
 not contain many of the late improvements in machinery. The 
 work people [*] do not seem very expert at their work. The 
 larger dwelling houses are of brick. Galleries run through 
 the center of them. The Women's appartments, opening- 
 one into the other, are on one side and the men's on the 
 other. Stoves stand in the middle of the rooms. The people 
 keep their rooms too warm and close, which evidently gives 
 them a pale & unhealthy appearance. At eleven o'clock we 
 found them all going home to dinner. The soil on which 
 the village stands is sandy. The streets had not been made 
 
 (Friday I7* h . 
 Dec r . cont d ) 
 
248 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 with much attention, and the rain water lay in several 
 places, but soon sank into the ground. — At one o'clock we 
 dined with M 1 ". F. Rapp. His neice was at table. She is a 
 young and pleasing person. The dinner was good. We 
 drank some red & white wine made in the village. It was 
 of a pleasant quality. We likewise tasted cider & beer made 
 here; both very good. After dinner M r . Rapp's neice played 
 on the piano, and sang some german airs accompanied by 
 three of the females who were sent for. — We then walked 
 through the blacksmith's & coopers' shops, the cow houses, 
 and looked into the deer yard. We saw some fine cattle and 
 a beautiful elk. [*] In the cotton manufactory we remained 
 some time, & M r . Owen shewed them a few alterations in 
 their manner of working which they ought to make. While 
 we were there the females from two rooms 10 in numbers, 
 assembled and sung us some german songs on the subject 
 of friendship, composed & harmonized by themselves. It 
 was pleasing & well done, but too much in a melancholy 
 dull style, & without sufficient animation. — This evening 
 Mr. George Flower arrived from Albion to meet his father. 
 [This evening we had wind & rain from the South West.] 
 Saturday i8* h . [Thermometer this morning 30°. About 8 o'clock this 
 
 Dec r . morning M r . Ronald's arrived. He came to the ferry last 
 
 night, but the weather being stormy & the night dark, the 
 ferry man could not venture across with him.] After 
 breakfast we walked with Mr. Rapp to the labyrinth & 
 vineyards, which were well laid out. From some of the 
 knolls where the vines were trained, we had a good view 
 of the village. The vineyards are fenced in. On our return 
 we visited the hatter's shop, the shoemaker's, the tannery, 
 and a room where the females were making clothes. All 
 appeared actively employed. Between 11 & 12 o'clock, 
 M r . Rapp having some business with his people, we walked 
 down to the ferry, where we found 3 or 4 flats lying, and 
 one lately made by the Harmonites. In these flats they send 
 their produce to the market at New Orleans. — At 12 o'clock 
 Mr. Rapp dined with [*] us at the Inn. After dinner he 
 supplied us with horses, and we rode with him four miles 
 to a corn mill, which they have erected on a small passage of 
 the Wabash which separates a large flat, & forms a short 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 249 
 
 cut where the river makes a considerable bend. They have 
 built a strong & large wooden mill close to a dam which 
 the[y] have thrown entirely across this cut. There is water 
 all the year to turn this mill which grinds for a great many 
 of their neighbours. At the back of the mill the ground 
 rises from one to two hundred feet, and the bank contains 
 good free stone. From the mill we rode through the forest 
 nearly to the Springfield road, and found a good many parts 
 of the higher ground in the woods level and well situated 
 as sites for villages. We returned between 3 & 4 o'clock. This 
 day was cold, cloudy & frosty. In the morning & forenoon 
 there was a good deal of wind, which frequently blew a 
 good deal of sand along the street roads. In the evening 
 the wind decreased. 
 
 [In the night it froze a little. This morning the temper- Sunday 19*. 
 ature was 26 . Weather cloudy.] At nine o'clock the church Dec r . 
 bell called the Population to Divine Service. It was an 
 interesting sight to see the males & females [*] coming in 
 strings to the church from the different parts of the village. 
 The men dress in a plain blue, brown frock coat or 
 surtout, trowsers & shoes; the females wear white caps, 
 checked neck handkerchiefs, cloth gowns, and checked 
 aprons. They all had a stouter & healthier appearance this 
 morning than when w-e saw them at their work. There 
 were a good many young persons among them, and we 
 understood that they had several children who remained at 
 home. The men in general had strong and coarse features. 
 They all wore long loose hair. The females occupied half 
 the church, the males the other half. M r . Frederick Rapp 
 sat at an elevated desk and gave out the psalms and 
 preached. His sermon was about friendship, working for 
 one another, having common property, and the approaching 
 millenium, which would be brought about by these & such 
 like practices & method of life. There was a mildness & 
 amiable expression of countenance in the whole congregation 
 which was extremely pleasing. Several of both the males & 
 females were good looking strong & healthy, and a very 
 general contentment seemed to prevail among them. The 
 service lasted about an hour & a half. [There were about 
 500 persons present.] We dined between 11 & 12 o'clock. 
 
250 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 (Sunday 19 th . 
 Dec 1 '. cont d ) 
 
 From Monday 
 20th. Dec r . to 
 Monday 27th. 
 Dec r . 
 
 Between 12 & 1 o'clock. The village band [*] consisting 
 of 8 or 10 wind instruments, assembled in front of 
 M r . Rapp's house, played one or two slow movements and 
 then preceded us into the church. — We were followed by 
 about 300 of the inhabitants, mostly of the younger part 
 of the population. We remained there between one & two 
 hours, which time was devoted to music & singing psalms. 
 The males and females are formed into sections of 8 or 
 10. They are in the habit of assembling together for the 
 purpose of practising singing. The verses which they 
 select, they themselves arrange, to music and sing in 
 parts. M r . Rapp called out 8 or ten sections to sing, after 
 which the females retired. We then quitted the church 
 followed by the males. There was an afternoon service 
 similar to the morning one, which we did not attend. The 
 afternoon which was very fine, clear & frosty, was spent 
 by us in walking and riding. At six o'clock we drank tea 
 at M r . Rapp's, after which about a dozen of the young 
 men & women came in and the rest of the evening was 
 occupied with music. M r . Rapp's neice Miss Gertrude Rapp 
 played the piano, D r . Millar an elderly person who was 
 formerly physician & surgeon to the Society & who now 
 is schoolmaster, played the violin, two of the men played [*] 
 flutes, and the women sang. A variety of music was 
 performed. The Canadian Boat Song, All's well. Away 
 with Melancholy, were sung out of compliment to our 
 party. We retired about nine o'clock. 
 
 (About half past 10 o'clock on Monday 20 th . ins*. 
 M r . Ronalds, Miss Ronalds, W m . Owen & myself set out 
 on horseback for M r . Flower's place near Albion Town in 
 Edwards County in the State of Illinois ; leaving M r . Owen 
 to inspect more fully and at his leisure the Harmony Estate, 
 and to shew & explain his plans to M r . Frederick Rapp. 
 W m . Owen & myself left our Portmanteaus to come in a cart 
 with M r . Owen's baggage when he should set out, and only 
 brought a change of linen in our pockets. The day though 
 frosty was beautifully fine. W r e crossed the Wabash by 
 the ferry, which is kept by an American, and passed through 
 a thick wood filled with canes with a green leaf upon 
 them, across a flat island to Fox's Creek which we 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 251 
 
 forded. In the time of floods this island, except in the 
 center is overflowed & the creek cannot be forded. The 
 part of the island which is not subject to be overflowed 
 belongs to the Harmonites. The road is merely a track 
 cut through the forest, and in consequence of its flatness 
 and of the richness of the soil, is deep & bad. The frost 
 had however hardened [*] the ground & rendered it tolerable 
 riding. In these cane bottoms the wolves take shelter. They 
 have destroyed many of the sheep belonging to the Har- 
 monites. After crossing Fox's Creek we ascended an 
 undulating country, almost entirely covered with oak 
 timber. After riding from 20 to 25 miles from Harmonie 
 we opened upon the English Prairie, an open space of about 
 4000 acres of good land covered with long wild grass, with 
 a few scattered clumps of trees & surrounded by the 
 forest. The scene had the appearance of a fine and 
 extensive Park. Here & there on the skirts of the woods 
 we could perceive the habitations of English settlers from 
 whom this prairie derives its name. Prairie is the name 
 which the French settlers who in the course of the past 
 century established themselves at New Orleans Vincennes, 
 St. Louis & the surrounding country, gave to these open 
 tracts of country, and it has from usage been adopted into 
 the English language. The cause of their formation seems 
 yet to be a question, though it be generally considered that 
 fierce fires so thoroughly destroyed the roots of the trees as 
 to prevent any regrowth of timber. Towards the close of 
 the year and during the Indian summer when [*] the long 
 prairie grass is both dry & dead, frequent fires take 
 place. Some are accidental, but most of them are done 
 designedly by the inhabitants who take advantage of a wind 
 blowing from their premises to fire the grass, and send 
 the danger in a different direction. For the fire is so rapid 
 when the wind is high, that it flies over the land at a horse's 
 speed, frequently destroying the fences & farm yards on 
 the borders of the forest to which its course is directed. 
 When any such danger is apprehended, the farmer towards 
 whose property the fire is advancing, will if time permit, call 
 in the assistance of his neighbours, pull down fences attempt 
 to beat out the flames, or light a fire near to his own 
 
252 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 From 
 Monday 
 20th. Dec r , 
 to Do. 
 27th. 
 
 premises & direct its course to meet the other fire. The 
 
 destruction by these fires of fences & hay & corn stacks is 
 
 so common & timber & food so plentiful in this country, that 
 
 the natives talk of them with apparent unconcern. Riding 
 
 with a party to view the country we passed a farmer & his 
 
 little boy toiling away with long shovels, beating out a fire, 
 
 and after looking on for a few minutes continued our ride 
 
 without any further notice. — About 1/2 past four we [*] 
 
 reached M r . Flower's Place, situated on the northern skirt of 
 
 the English Prairie, & about a mile south of the settlement 
 
 ont (1 . town of Albion. In the year 18 16 M r . George Flower & 
 
 M r . Birkbeck came over to America for the purpose of 
 
 fixing upon an eligible settlement. In the course of the 
 
 following year they visited this place, and being struck with 
 
 the beauty of the scene, its similarity to England, & the 
 
 facility of cultivating a large tract of good land already 
 
 cleared of timber, they purchased several thousand acres both 
 
 of prairie & woodland which they divided. M r . Birkbeck 
 
 afterwards called his place Wanbro. His house is two miles 
 
 from Albion which was fixed upon by M r . Flower and some 
 
 who came from England with him as a convenient situation 
 
 for a town. The surrounding trees were cut down to build 
 
 temporary log houses, after which a few brick & stone & 
 
 frame houses were commenced. The place is as yet very 
 
 inconsiderable, consisting of only a few houses scattered 
 
 on each side of the road. It is about 40 miles south of 
 
 Vincennes. A horse post passes through this place once 
 
 a week to Shawneetown which stands on the low land on the 
 
 banks of the Ohio near the place where it is joined [*] by 
 
 the Wabash. M r . Flower has built himself an English 
 
 cottage, adjoining to which is a large log house, and 
 
 offices & farm yard, where his eldest son M r . George Flower 
 
 lives. Several acres of land have been enclosed with wooden 
 
 fences, & cultivated about their houses. Their gardens 
 
 abound with peach trees, which they informed us yield a 
 
 profusion of the finest peaches. This place in summer time 
 
 must be extremely beautiful. At the back & to the right & left 
 
 of these houses a forest of oaks raises its lofty head, and 
 
 in front a rich and extensive prairie which is gradually 
 
 coming into cultivation is spread out. The limits of the 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 253 
 
 prairie are lost in the distant woods, clumps of trees decorate 
 its surface, wild deer roam over it, and the cattle & sheep 
 of the farm herd upon it. Half a mile off in different 
 directions, reside M r . Pickering & M r . Ronalds, married 
 to two of M r . Flower's daughters. M r . Ronalds is building 
 a tannery. — We were received by M r . Flower & all his 
 family with the utmost hospitality. W m . Owen lodged in 
 his house, and I at M r . George Flower's. We had numerous 
 discussions relative to M r . Owen's views & plans, and I 
 derived much information therefrom. The activity of mind 
 displayed by all the party, aided by their experience acquired 
 by settling in a new [*] country where each often has almost 
 every duty and business to perform, tended to throw much 
 light upon enquiries into the nature of Society and the most 
 beneficial mode of associating & cooperating together. The 
 advantage of the Union of many families for the purpose of 
 mutually assisting one another & at the same time properly 
 dividing & apportioning the various employments, seemed 
 to be well understood, and the want of such an agreement 
 and arrangement forcibly felt by them; but the habits of the 
 Old Country & the difficulties attending novel & extensive 
 arrangements had hitherto prevented the accomplishment of 
 such an enterprise. The next morning, (Tuesday) we 
 walked about the farm, and into the Prairie, and called at 
 several houses. W r e observed several elevated spots on 
 which villages might be built, and we conversed with some 
 of the farmers on the advantages of Union as the way to 
 produce abundance, and encrease of comfort, and secure an 
 education for their children. On Wednesday we walked 
 to Albion, and I gave letters which had been entrusted to 
 M r . Owen, to D r . Spring and M r . Birkett. D r . Spring is a 
 young medical gentleman who has I learnt [*] received a good 
 education and is getting into good practice here, — M r . Birkett 
 is a settler from the West Indies. There is another Doctor liv- 
 ing in Albion, D r . Pugsley. We likewise saw M r . W m . Orange 
 who keeps the Washington Tavern, M r . Wood who keeps a 
 Tavern belonging to M r . Birkett who lives in the house, 
 M r . Lewis, a merchant emigrated from London & now living 
 retired here in a small house with his wife & family, and 
 M r . Johnston a blacksmith (late a stone mason). As he is 
 
254 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 From 
 Monday 
 20th Dec 1 
 to Do. 
 
 27th 
 
 one of the justices he is called Squire Johnstone. — We 
 looked into a corn mill turned by an inclined circular plane 
 worked by oxen, belonging to M r . Flower; and we saw 
 a machine with saws for separating the cotton from the 
 seed. — We called on M r . Pickering, whose wife had a day 
 or two before our arrival been confined. M r . Pickering is 
 the son of a Yorkshire farmer. He was a land surveyor 
 in England, came out single, & is now a married man with 
 a family & a farmer. — We likewise called on M r . Ronalds, 
 who lives in a small cottage near his unfinished tannery. He 
 has some patent for tanning. He officiates in turns with 
 M r . Lewis as clergyman on Sundays, and his congregation 
 meet in a room in Albion. M rs . Ronalds was in delicate 
 health, being in a fair way to increase her family. — The 
 next day (Wednesday) we rode out with [*] M r . Flower, 
 Mr. George Flower, M r . Ronalds & his sister, Mr. Birkett, 
 ►contd. D r . Spring & M r . W m . Orange with some greyhounds, to 
 have a deer hunt. We passed a field of cotton, of which 
 I gathered a sample. It grows on a small bush in pods which 
 contain the cotton, and which open when ripe. Crossing the 
 prairie to the East we put up two which soon escaped into 
 the woods. We then called on M r . & M rs . Daniel Orange 
 who have a farm on the east side of the prairie, and were 
 introduced to M r s. Jolly — .From M r . Orange's we crossed 
 through a belt of wood into a small prairie called French 
 Creek Prairie. The grass had been burnt, and we were 
 obliged to return without seeing any deer in it. In the 
 wood we came upon an opossum. It is a small animal, with 
 short legs, having a body about 18 inches long, gray 
 hair, long snout & tail, & large mouth. It laid down and 
 pretended to be dead. The back woodsmen have the expres- 
 sion that a person is opossuming when he is shamming. — As 
 we again crossed the English Prairie we put up 3 or 4 more 
 deer. They bounded over the long grass displaying their 
 white bushy tails, & were soon in the woods. We turned 
 southward along the prairie and soon found as many more, 
 which in like manner went off into the woods. As [*] the 
 grass in this wood had not been burnt, the greyhounds did 
 not once get sight of the deer, and we found it fatiguing 
 work riding through it. Our horses were hardy, and 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 255 
 
 displayed more intelligence than I had remarked among 
 horses in England. Here they are little groomed, have to lie 
 out a great deal, and often have to feed themselves. The day 
 was very fine, and the thermometer above temperate in the 
 shade. In the evening I played at chess with M r . Ronalds. 
 On Friday we walked to Albion, and saw the school kept 
 by M r . Warangton. It is in a small room where he teaches 
 reading writing & arithmetic to about 30 boys & girls. — A 
 County Hall is building in Albion. The brick walls & the 
 roof are finished. We afterwards took the road to 
 Wanbro, and called at M r . Browns. He is a shoe maker & 
 weaver. His wife is a fine looking woman. They have 
 a large family. They received us in a very friendly 
 manner & we were introduced to their two oldest daughters, 
 both fine young women. M r . George Flower invited himself 
 and family to drink tea with them on Tuesday next. They 
 hoped that we would be of the party. M r . Owen arrived 
 about sunset. M r . Fred. Rapp had delayed his visit till 
 Monday, [*] as he could not be from home Xmas day & 
 Sunday. — Friday evenings are set apart by M r . Flower and 
 his friends for music. — The party assembled consisted of 
 Mr. & Mrs. Lewis, Mr. & Mrs. Orange & Mrs. Jolly, Mr. Cave, 
 Mr. & Mrs. Carter, Dr. Spring & Mr. Flower's family. In 
 consequence of Mrs. Pickering's confinement the best per- 
 former on the piano was absent, but we had a violin violin- 
 cello, flute, & several good voices. M r . Lewis & his wife 
 sang very prettily together. Mrs. Carter also sang some 
 pretty songs. M r . Carter is a trader; he trades sometimes 
 with the Indians. I learnt from him that not long since 
 a party of Miami and Kickapoo Indians were hunting in 
 this neighbourhood. It was also said that they were painted 
 for war, and intended going down the river to Tennessee 
 in the spring to fight the Little Osage Tribe, whose lands 
 they wished to occupy. Some few years ago a large party 
 five young men of one of these tribes went down the river 
 in canoes for the same purpose. They stopped at Harmonie 
 had refreshment of corn and water, & continued their 
 journey. They were defeated and all destroyed. — We felt 
 anxious to gain some information where this hunting was 
 at presint, but could not obtain any certain [*] informa- 
 
256 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 From 
 Monday 
 20 th Dec r . 
 to Do. 27& 
 Dec 1 ". 
 
 
 tion. — In the course of the evening we discovered a fire in 
 the southern part of the prairie but as the night was calm 
 it did not blaze very much. — The next morning (Saturday 
 Xmas day) M r . Flower having prevailed on M r . Owen to 
 have a meeting to explain his Plans, a notice w r as written 
 advertising it for the next day at 1/2 past one in Albion. I 
 rode with M r . George Flower, and left it in Albion. Thence 
 we rode into the East prairie, about two miles distant, called 
 at the Distillery & gave notice, and then went to M r . Woods 
 farm. M r . Wood is a farmer from Nottinghamshire. His 
 family live with him. His eldest son is married to the 
 daughter of M r . Flower's housekeeper. They belonged in 
 England to a society of free thinkers. We had some 
 conversation relative to the advantages of associating in 
 community, which they said that they had w r ished for a long 
 time. The father said that in England the people could not 
 so soon understand the advantages of such a plan, because 
 they had never, like his family, had the experience of 
 beginning the world in a new country ; and the son remarked 
 that he wished to live in such a society — as he was convinced 
 it would be the happiest life that could be led by man- 
 cont<*. kind. — In [*] the evening M r . Owen had a long argument 
 with M r . Flower and M r . Ronalds relative to the consistency 
 of his Principles, their connexion with a religious belief, & 
 the distinctions between right & wrong, virtue & vice. 
 
 Sunday morning we went to meeting held in a room in 
 Albion, where about 2 dozen persons were present. The 
 day was remarkably clear, calm and temperate. A little 
 before 2 o'clock so many persons collected that it was judged 
 necessary to have M r . Owen's meeting in the open air. 
 Benches were brought out of the houses, & when these were 
 filled numbers sat on the logs of trees which lay on the 
 grass. The meeting consisted of about 200 persons, the 
 great majority of whom were English settlers. Many 
 who are methodists did not attend. There were very few 
 Americans present. The company formed into a ring & 
 M r . Owen stood in the center and spoke to them for about 
 2 1/2 hours. All were extremely attentive and both 
 interested and pleased. Husbands brought their wives & 
 daughters, and many infant children were to be seen in their 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 257 
 
 mothers arms, as they could not be left alone at home. [*] 
 M r . Owen commenced by congratulating himself at being 
 surrounded by so many speaking his own language & brought 
 up as he had been, & so far from his own home. He then 
 stated the principles of Human Nature that Man's character 
 consists of & is formed first by the Power that creates him & 
 2 nd!y. by the circumstances in which he is placed after 
 birth. Thence he traced the effect of charity, kindness & 
 benevolence, and the absence of the angry passions. — He 
 told them that such alone was pure religion, and that they 
 might be certain it did not exist wherever anger, ill will, and 
 uncharitable conduct was found. He° [°called their attention 
 to the necessity of placing themselves in the best and excluding 
 the worst circumstances, — ] commented on the advantages 
 of Union, and spoke of those principles alone being able to 
 produce it. He shewed his plans & read the rules & regulations 
 for a community as drawn out & adopted by the British & 
 Foreign Philanthropic Society, formed in London four years 
 ago. About sunset the meeting broke up quietly & in high 
 good humour. Several persons spoke of his views & plans 
 as being highly satisfactory. — In the evening M r . Owen 
 shewed his plans to M r . Pickering at M r . Flower's. 
 
 On Monday morning M r . Owen rode out to call upon 
 some families in the neighbourhood [*] and I remained at 
 home and w r rote my journal. The weather was calm & tem- 
 perate, but cloudy. Between 3 & 4 oclock M r . Fred. Rapp 
 & his neice Gertrude Rapp arrived. About 5 o'clock the 
 following party set down to dinner at M r . George Flower's, 
 Mr. & Mrs. Birkett, Mr. & Mrs. Carter, Mr. & Mrs. Cave, 
 Mr. & Mrs. Lewis, Mrs. Jolly, Mr. & Mrs. Orange, Miss Rapp, 
 Miss Ross, Miss Ronalds, Mr. Rapp, Dr. Spring Mr. Flower's 
 Family & ourselves. After dinner an interesting discussion 
 took place relative to M r . Owen's doctrine of Man's non 
 responsibility. M r . Flower, M r . Ronalds & M r . Pickering, 
 contended that Man was a subject for merit & demerit, of 
 praise & blame, and of reward & punishment ; and they 
 supported their opinion by connecting it with religion, the 
 Christian dispensation of a belief in a God in a resurrection, 
 a heaven & hell, & future rewards & punishments, and by 
 endeavouring to shew that M r . Owen's statement of the 
 
258 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Tuesday 28^ 
 Dec r . 
 
 (Tuesday 28th. 
 Dcc r . cont d ) 
 
 Formation of Human character and his Exposition of the 
 influence of circumstances over human nature, were in 
 contradiction to such creed. M r . Owen replied that he was 
 not aware how his statement that the child was created by 
 a power over which he had no controul [*] could be 
 considered as a denial of a Supreme Being; his endeavour 
 to draw public attention to the consideration of the influence 
 of circumstances over the child after birth, was no denial 
 of a Resurrection ; and his wish to do away with all human 
 artificial rewards & punishments, was no interference with 
 the future state of man after this life, or with those natural 
 punishments which necessarily follow ignorance & bad 
 habits, and those natural rewards which ensue from 
 knowledge & good habits. The discussion was carried on 
 till past 10 o'clock. Mr. & M^. Lewis, & Mr. & Mrs. Carter, 
 sang some extremely pretty songs ; after which the Party 
 broke up. — M r . Rapp remarked that he agreed with 
 M r . Flower in his arguments ; M r . Lewis & M r . Carter 
 were very favorable to M r . Owen's views, and M r . Birkett 
 declared that he would not have missed being present at 
 the discussion for 500 dollars. [In the afternoon the 
 glass was 54°.] 
 
 This morning the glass was at 48 ° with foggy & rainy 
 weather. M r . Owen passed the greater part of the day in 
 business with M r . Rapp. I sat with Miss Ronalds, Miss 
 Rapp, & M r . Pickering & M r . Ronalds. These gentlemen 
 earnestly opposed the system of M r . Owen with religious 
 objections. M r . John Wood came in to see M r . Owen. He 
 expressed how much he was in favour of his Plan, remarked 
 that when in England, he had laboured hard but never 
 acquired an independence and a place that he could call his 
 own, and that now though he had property of [*] his own 
 and little labour, he found himself more dependent than 
 ever. The present system, he said, was man against man ; if 
 he gained today, it was his neighbour's loss, and if his 
 neighbour gained tomorrow, it was at his expense. He 
 would do anything, he added, as far as he was concerned 
 to bring the plan of community into practice. M r . Owen 
 agreed to have some conversation tomorrow evening after 
 dusk on the subject, with M r . Wood & 6 or 8 of his 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 259 
 
 friends, if they felt disposed to come & spend the evening at 
 M r . Flower's. M rs . Pickering being very unwell, M r . & 
 M rs . Flower went & passed the night at her house. — In the 
 course of the evening M r . Carter & M r . Lewis came from 
 Albion as deputies to request M r . Owen to hold another 
 meeting, as many persons both of Albion & Wanbro wished 
 to discuss with him the merits of his plan. They shewed 
 a paper containing a dozen & a half of signatures, offering 
 to become members of a community. Among the number 
 I observed the names of Mess rs . Birbeck (son) Birket, 
 Johnston, Lewis, Orange, Spring & Carter. M r . Owen 
 appointed one o'clock on Thursday at Albion, for the 
 meeting. He shewed and explained the drawings of his 
 plan to Mess rs . Carter, Lewis & Ronalds. I had some 
 conversation [*] with Miss Gertrude, who is pretty, mild, 
 amiable, and extremely pleasing. She sang a few little 
 german songs in an unaffected manner, & was a fine 
 specimen in her own manners, how charming, simple, 
 innocent & interesting a character a Harmonie life is 
 capable of producing. 
 
 Fog & Rain. Ther. 50°. Mr. Rapp & his neice set off Wednesday 29th. 
 after breakfast for Harmonie, M r . Owen having engaged e ° r " 
 either to go over there on Friday or Saturday, or meet him 
 on Monday at Vincennes for the purpose of visiting the 
 Shaker establishment at Bussora. M r . Owen occupied 
 himself looking over his papers. In the course of the day 
 the post arrived at Albion from Vincennes, bringing a 
 variety of newspapers for M r . Flower. These engaged 
 our attention during the evening. One of them contained 
 the Presidents Message, in which he spoke of civilizing 
 the Indians. It struck us that should M r . Owen purchase 
 Harmonie, he would be a good agent for that purpose 
 between the U. States & the Tribes, and the establishment 
 of Harmonie a place of interest & attraction to them. [A 
 Farmer of the name of Michels called on M r . Owen. He is 
 a Methodist, but very desirous of becoming a member of a 
 community. He is an industrious man.] M r . Owen talked 
 to W m . and myself about our remaining at Harmonie to 
 make ourselves acquainted with the several operations carried 
 on in the village, while he proceeded to Washington. 
 
260 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Thursday 30 th . This day was calm & cloudy, without rain. Ther^. 
 
 Dccr# ranged between 40 & 50 . About one o'clock [*] we went 
 
 up to Albion. Before two o'clock about 70 persons had 
 assembled in a room in the Brick Tavern. Among the 
 number were several from Wanbro; half a dozen respectable 
 looking females ; about two dozen hard working looking 
 farmers & mechanics ; several young persons and 5 or 6 black 
 men & women. They shewed by their appearance the 
 irregular habits of life followed by them, but with the 
 exception of a noisy drunken man who came in for a few 
 minutes, they behaved with great attention and propriety. 
 M r . Owen shewed them his plans, and mentioned that his 
 object in visiting Harmonie had been to see whether that 
 place would serve as a temporary residence for an association 
 of persons while they were acquiring the habits and infor- 
 mation requisite for persons entering an establishment of the 
 construction he had been shewing them. He continued, that 
 he had found a great many advantages at Harmonie, and 
 considered that any population removing to that situation 
 would immediately find themselves in a superior situation. 
 The report of the unhealthiness of Harmonie was incor- 
 rect. Before the land was cleared the inhabitants were 
 sickly. The sickness diminished as they cleared the land ; and 
 out of 800 persons 5 died in 1822 & 2 only in 1823. He 
 mentioned that from his experience, he found it better 
 to [*] manage a population without praise or blame, reward 
 or punishment. He said that he intended that the utmost 
 toleration of opinion should prevail in associations formed 
 upon his principles ; for he could not conceive a more 
 irrational proceeding or greater injustice, that [sic] to be 
 angry with or censure any person for his opinions, or prevent 
 him having the fullest & f reeest exercise of worship according 
 to his Belief. He said that it had occurred to him that 
 morning, that were he to purchase Harmonie, an association 
 of persons might rent it of him, and he could make all the 
 arrangements and direct their proceedings till every thing 
 should be well understood & went on in its regular course. 
 To questions as to the method to be adopted by persons 
 having houses, lands & stock around Albion, who might be 
 disposed to join him, he replied that he had been considering 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 261 
 
 the difficulty stated, and that he had been thinking that 
 cotton might be grown on the dry lands, & that the wet 
 ground might be turned into grass land. M r . Owen concluded 
 by saying that they might reflect upon all these matters ; that 
 he intended to return again to Harmonie, and further 
 examine that concern; that if they thought they could form 
 themselves into an association upon any other plan, he would 
 be most happy to [*] give them every assistance in his (Thursday 30*. 
 power. — After the meeting broke up, several persons Dec£ contd ) 
 remained for some time conversing together on the subject. 
 We dined at M«. Wattle's. Her husband Judge Wattle 
 was absent on law duty. While M r . Clinton was Governor 
 of the State of New York & in high public estimation 
 Judge Wattle was likewise in consideration in the east. Upon 
 the change of Politics which put M r . Clinton out of office, 
 and some failures at the same time by which Judge Wattle 
 lost considerable sums of money; the Judge determined to 
 retire into the Western States, and ultimately fixed his 
 residence at Albion, where he has built a small house. The 
 dinner was cooked & served by M rs . Wattle, Miss Ross, & 
 M rs . Lewis. We had most of the persons present who 
 were at M r . George Flower's. We returned home early in the 
 evening, and found M r . Warangton, the schoolmaster, waiting 
 to converse with M r . Owen as to the improved method of 
 managing his school. M r . Warangton allowed that he thought 
 Man's character to be formed for him, & approved of a 
 system of tuition without praise or blame, reward or punish- 
 ment, but he involved the question in the discussion of 
 whether blame must not necessarily be attached to the Deity 
 for all the bad actions of men, if we relieved them of 
 blame, and went on to contend that such a consequence 
 proved that man must be a free agent, and that it [*] would 
 be inconsistent not to praise & blame, reward & punish. The 
 discussion was carried on for at least two hours. — 
 
 This day was calm but cloudy. We sent our portmanteaus Friday 31st. 
 by M r . Benton's cart, which was going on business to Har- Dec r . 
 monie. We started on horseback about 10 o'clock. We 
 travelled at an easy trot through the prairie & oak forest, 
 called the barrens, came into the Shawnee town road 8 miles 
 south of the village of Bon pas ; soon left this road & crossed 
 
262 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 to the left over the Fox Creek, which was very low ; crossed 
 Fox island which owing to the wet weather was very 
 muddy; and passing the Wabash ferry, reached Harmonie 
 about 3 o'clock. — M r . Fred. Rapp spent the evening with 
 us. He brought a bottle of red wine for us to taste, made 
 from the wild grapes. It had been 5 years in bottle, at first 
 fermented & sickened very much, & was a long time before it 
 cleared. It had a sweet, & sharp aromatic flavour, & reminded 
 me of the common sort of vin de moulin, made in the South 
 of France. He said that he had tried pruning the wild 
 vines, but that they ceased to bear grapes when pruned. — In 
 the course of our day's ride I saw 2 wild deer, and 3 
 turkey buzzards. 
 Saturday i s *. This morning the wind which [*■] had been southerly 
 
 January 1825. f or t ^ e i ast wee k canle round to the north of West. It 
 threatened snow, but the glass standing about 33 °. the cold 
 kept it off. — The wind was sharp & the day cloudy & dry. — 
 After breakfast M*\ Owen went out with M r . Rapp & 
 W m . Owen & myself went with M r . George Flower to see 
 the Harmonite sheep. There are 3 flocks of merinoes, the 
 whole number, including rams, wethers, ewes & lambs, 
 amounting to between 800 & 900. M r . Rapp proposed to 
 leave 700. We found the flocks in three fold houses, which 
 appeared to be well kept and of a convenient size. — M r . Flower 
 took samples of the wool of two of the rams, which proved 
 to be very fine wool. In winter time the sheep always sleep 
 in the houses, but in summer they lay out and shepherds sleep 
 out with them to protect them from the wolves. — For this 
 purpose they have covered carts. — When we returned to the 
 inn, M r . Ronalds arrived from Albion, having set out early 
 in the morning in the expectation of meeting his sister on 
 her way home. We dined at midday, and between one & two 
 Mr. & Miss Ronalds & Mr. G. Flower left us for Albion. 
 Mr. Owen again went out with Mr. Rapp & W m . & myself 
 walked upon the hills a mile from the village towards the 
 mill. These [*] hills are at least 200 feet high, descending 
 abruptly to the cut which runs to the mill. [From the 
 highest point of these hills the prospect is extensive & 
 beautiful. A few judicious openings would present many 
 picturesque views of the winding river; and a little taste 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 263 
 
 in leaving here & there small clumps of trees when the land 
 is cleared, and planting a few artificial shrubs evergreens & 
 bushy trees would much augment the richness of the 
 scenery.] The small island on the other side of the cut is 
 flat, & flooded in the rainy season, & covered with trees 
 of large size, which retain the mark several feet up of the 
 river water. Through the trees we could see some large 
 stacks or barns in the middle of the island, belonging to 
 the Harmonites. The banks of the river are very picturesque 
 in this part, and with some management there might be 
 made many extremely beautiful walks & rides. We returned 
 at the back & west of the orchards which are large & shut 
 in by good palings. The town & these orchards stand on 
 a kind of second flat. Between them & the river is a lower 
 one, which the river inundates in the flooding season. This 
 lower flat is a rich soil and will, I have no doubt, ultimately 
 be secured by embankments from the inundation. In the 
 evening the wind went down & it began to freeze. — M r . Owen 
 spent some part of the evening with M r . Rapp, occupied 
 about the business of settling for the purchase of Harmonic 
 Our landlord M r . Eckensberger shewed me a good toned 
 german violoncello which he played [*] at the musical (Saturday i s *. 
 meetings of the Society. In the course of conversation he J any - 25 contd ) 
 told me that he came from the mountains of Suabia. That 
 he & several others of the surrounding country of Wurtem- 
 burg, were of a peculiar religious opinion, not merely 
 forms & words; that M r . Rapp was their preacher, & that 
 they used to assemble together for the purpose of carrying 
 on their peculiar mode of worship. The clergy at length 
 got them fined every time they met together. In consequence 
 of this they determined to emigrate to America. Their 
 neighbours, considering them to be the most orderly, in- 
 dustrious, & honest people in the country, were much averse 
 to this step; but they finally succeeding in carrying their 
 project of removal into execution. When they purchased 
 the Estate of Harmonie & removed from the neighbourhood 
 of Pittsburg, they hoped to be joined by a great number 
 of their countrymen, & therefore took a much greater extent 
 of land than they immediately required. Two years back 
 finding that few joined their association, they sent some 
 
264 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 to the old country to try & [*] obtain an accession to their 
 members. Their missionaries however proved unsuccessful 
 & returned about this time twelve months. Soon after they 
 resolved to sell this property, & purchase a smaller one in 
 Pennsylvania nearer to that part of the country which is 
 peopled by germans. 
 Sunday 2»d At 7 oclock this morning the glass was at 22 . The day 
 
 Jany 1825. was ca i m & beautifully clear. The sun shone brilliantly. At 
 
 nine o'clock the Population went into church. As they passed 
 our window they looked remarkably respectable & orderly; 
 their dress very plain & old-fashioned, but clean & decently 
 put on. W m . went to church, while M r . Owen & myself 
 remained at home. M r . Owen had in the morning received 
 a letter from M r . Rapp, relative to their discussions last 
 night, and containing his terms. — After church M r . Owen 
 received another note from M r . Rapp to inform him that he 
 had received notice of the arrival of goods at Shawneetown, 
 that in consequence he intended to send a keel boat down 
 tomorrow, & that other business would prevent [*] him 
 going to Vincennes. M r . Owen therefore determined to go 
 to Shawneetown, & a person was dispatched on horseback 
 with a letter to M r . George Flower, as that gentleman had 
 arranged to meet M r . Owen at Vincennes. After dinner 
 we went to the nursery garden which was full of apple 
 trees. There were also two small patches of apple trees in 
 an orchard. These were neatly bound round with straw to 
 preserve them from the rabbits. We afterwards walked 
 along the bank of the cutoff, turned up the hills on our 
 left, crossed along by the vineyards, and returned soon after 
 four o'clock to the town. M r . Schnee from Springfield 
 came in and had a long conversation with M r . Owen. He 
 has been a woolen manufacturer, and seemed disposed to 
 join an association & take part in the direction of that 
 branch of business. 
 Monday 3rd. During breakfast a M r . Clarke from the neighbourhood 
 
 Jan/. of the Illinois River arrived. He brought a letter of 
 
 introduction to M r . Owen from M r . Birkbeck. He had 
 formerly been a farmer near Rye in Kent, had been 12 years 
 in America, traded with the Indians, been to the Rocky 
 Mountains in pursue of furs, and wintered with his 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 265 
 
 companions under those mountains. We had [*] con- 
 siderable conversation with him relative to the manners & 
 customs of the Indians, the new system of society, and the 
 rapid progress of the settling in the Western States. He 
 spoke much of the superior fertility of the western country, 
 and said that during the last fall 300 families had settled 
 in his neighbourhood. After dinner he set out on his road 
 east. M r . George Flower arrived from Albion. Having 
 made a final agreement with M r . Fred. Rapp for the 
 purchase of Harmonie, M r . Owen sent his baggage down 
 to the keelboat, and having taken leave of the Harmonites 
 we embarked about 3 o'clock. The afternoon was calm & clear 
 but cold. We had six rowers, a cook and a captain. M r . Rapp 
 had sent provisions, blankets & buffaloe skins on board for 
 our use. The cargo was light, consisting only of a few 
 barrels of flour. There was a stove and benches in the 
 after part, and altogether we were tolerably well off. We 
 occasionally rowed, and sometimes the Captain played on 
 Ihe key bugle or the crew sung glees. The river was low 
 for the season of the year, & the current, which sometimes 
 ran between 2 & 3 miles an hour & at other times not above 
 one, [*] was rapidly falling. When rowing, the boat would (Monday 3^ 
 often go from 3 to 4 miles an hour. In the most shallow Jan y cont<*) 
 parts of the channel, the water was from 3 to 5 feet deep ; but 
 we often had above two fathoms. The night was beautifully 
 illuminated by a full moon. The sides of the river are 
 flat, the soil rich & covered with large timber. The cotton 
 wood is very abundant, in consequence of this ground being 
 subject to be flooded in the Spring. The river winds very 
 much, & has several islands in it. 
 
 This day was cloudless. Though the morning was Tuesday 4^. 
 frosty & cold, yet the rising sun gradually warmed the air Jany. 
 and produced an agreeable temperature. Before we reached 
 the mouth of the W'abash we passed the mouth of the little 
 Wabash. We saw several Turkey buzzards and some smaller 
 birds, flocks of wild geese & ducks, but we did not get near 
 enough to shoot any. Some of the river bends are cut off 
 by narrow channels forming islands. Some of these channels 
 may be navigated during high water & in the day time. 
 One [*] of them saves 18 miles of distance. We entered 
 
266 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 the Ohio opposite an Island belonging to the State of 
 Kentucky, called Wabash Island. The river Wabash may 
 be about 400 yards wide at its mouth; below the Wabash 
 island the Ohio may be from 600 to 800 yards broad. At 
 low water their depth where they meet may be 3 fathoms ; at 
 the height of flood from 7 to 9 fathoms. We arrived at 
 Shawneetown about half after 3 o'clock. From the mouth 
 of the Wabash Harmonie may be 65 miles, & Shawneetown 
 10 miles distant. This place stands on the edge of the right 
 bank of the Ohio. It consists of two straggling streets. The 
 wood is cut down for about 1/4 of a mile every way round 
 the town which contains about 150 houses, including log, 
 frame & brick buildings. The latter description of house is 
 confined to a very small number. The foundations of the 
 brick houses are built from 2 to 4 feet above the ground, & 
 those of the wooden buildings are raised on logs, by way of 
 protection from the spring inundation, which generally 
 floods the whole town. We put up at the Columbian Inn, at 
 the sign of Washington's Head, painted by M r . Harding 
 of Kentucky [*] who went to England last spring, and took 
 a good likeness of M r . Owen in London. — M r . Rawlings, the 
 proprietor was very attentive. This is the best house in the 
 town. All the latest papers are to be seen here. — M r . Rapp 
 has a store here ; his agent is M r . Caldwell, a very respectable 
 man. He is land agent for the United States. — Shawneetown 
 was first settled as the nearest port on the Ohio, from the 
 salt spring which are about 10 miles inland. There is a post 
 weekly between this place & Harmonie. The distance is 12 
 miles to the ferry on the Wabash, and 24 miles from thence 
 through Springfield. We supped at 6 o'clock and spent the 
 evening reading the papers & in conversation with the people 
 of the place. We slept in a room with two other persons. 
 Wednesday 5th. Early this morning the Indiana steamboat, arrived here 
 
 J any - from Louisville. It & the Congress had been engaged to take 
 
 a cargo & some of the Harmonie people up to Economy. The 
 Captain, M r . Clarke, put a person on shore at Mount Vernon, 
 to cross over & give notice at Harmonie that he would be 
 at the mouth of the Wabash in waiting for them, and called 
 at Shawneetown to take on board several articles from the 
 store. In the course of the forenoon M r . Owen conversed 
 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 267 
 
 with some of the people, among the number D r . Reid, & sub- 
 scribed for the [*] Shawneetown Gazette, 3 dollars per 
 annum, published every Saturday. About mid-day we 
 embarked on board the steamboat, which took the keelboat 
 alongside. As there was no pilot on board acquainted with 
 the navigation of the Wabash, we only went 2 miles 
 up the river & anchored on the river side. [The weather 
 calm & clear.] In the evening the crew of the Harmonie 
 boat sang to the company in the cabin, consisting of 
 Capt n . & M^. Clarke, M". Fitch from New Albany, & our- 
 selves. I wrote to my uncle. 
 
 We spent the whole of this day waiting for the Thursday 6* h . 
 Harmonites. During dinner M r . Rawlings the master of J any 
 the Shawneetown Inn. We amused ourselves part of the 
 time making fires in the wood. About 4 o'clock 3 flat 
 boats arrived with a cargo from Harmonie & the notice 
 that M r . Rapp & the party would meet the steamboat at 
 Mount Vernon. In the evening I wrote to Skene, and gave 
 my letters to M r . Owen to forward from Washington. 
 Between 10 & 11 o'clock at Night every thing being on 
 board, we set off up the river Ohio leaving the Harmonie 
 boats to return up the Wabash. On our way one of the 
 fire men fell over board, his foot slipping on the icy deck 
 as he stopped for wood. He slid so far out as to escape 
 the wheel which only grazed the skin off one of his knees. 
 The engine was immediately stopped & a row boat sent after 
 him. As he swam in the water he kept halloeing out to 
 give notice where he was. At this moment the Magnet 
 steamboat overtook us [*] coming up the river, and it was (Thursday 6* h . 
 with difficulty that he swam out of her way. At length he ^ any contd) 
 was safely got on board. One of the passengers mentioned 
 that he was standing near the wheel of a steamboat when 
 a man fell over the bows, and coming under the wheel 
 between two of the flappers was safely picked up with 
 the water & pitched upon the deck again without further 
 injury than being almost drowned with water. 
 
 About 4 o'clock this morning we arrived at Mount Friday 7*K 
 Vernon. M r . Rapp & his party who had been waiting at night I any 
 in M r . James's inn, immediately came on board. M r . Schnee 
 from Springfield had accompanied them. W m . Owen & 
 
268 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Saturday 8* h 
 Jany 
 
 Sunday 9 th . 
 Jany 
 
 myself took leave of M r . Owen & landed. — We breakfasted 
 at the inn with M r . Rawlings, M r . Schnee, two or three 
 other persons, and the sheriff of this county and a young 
 man taken up for murder, whom he was conveying prisoner 
 to the state of Tennessee. After breakfast we rode to 
 Harmonie on two of M r . Rapp's horses, by the lower road 
 which is a mile shorter, better for horses, but not so good 
 for carriages as the Springfield road, on account of the 
 hills & creeks. — As I did not find myself very well, I rested 
 the rest of the day. The afternoon was cloudy but 
 calm & not cold. [*] 
 
 This day was calm, cloudy & mild weather. After 
 breakfast we called and saw M rs . Rapp and her grand 
 daughter Miss Gertrude, & then returned to the inn to write 
 our Journals. We dined between 12 & one o'clock. After 
 dinner M r . Schnee & his wife came in. In the course of 
 conversation I learnt that there are 52 counties in this 
 state, and 5 Judges. The circuit in which this county 
 (Posey) is, contains nine counties. The Judges have 700$ 
 a year, & are elected for 5 years. 1 The Judge of this circuit 
 is Goodlet. A Gazette is published every week at Evansville. 
 In the afternoon we took a long walk into the wood. 
 
 This morning the glass was at 34 . & the weather calm 
 and cloudy. As M r . Rapp was from home, the Harmonians 
 had no church. W nl . Owen & myself drew out an altered 
 form of notice relative to the persons & the terms on which 
 they would be admitted as members of the New Society. 
 After dinner we walked into the woods. On our return we 
 found a large party which had arrived from Princetown, 
 consisting of General Evans & his lady, General Lely [Neely] 
 Postmaster & his lady, M r . Brown tavern keeper, M r . Hall 
 lawyer, Mr. Arbuthnot saddler, and another gentleman. The 
 ladies, as is customary, occupied the private [*] sitting room 
 and the gentlemen the public room. We spent the evening 
 in conversation with them. They seemed much pleased with 
 M r . Owen's plans, and remarked that the country round 
 were delighted at the change which was about to take place 
 in this settlement. M r . Hall made several enquires relative 
 to the plan about to be adopted, which induced me to enter 
 
 3 The term of the judges was seven years. — Ed. 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 269 
 
 fully upon the subject with them. They expressed their 
 concurrence with me in the opinions I expressed relative to the 
 nature of Man & the system of cooperation. M r . Arbuthnot 
 said that he had been much taken with the subject, and 
 should not wonder if upon a satisfactory communication 
 with M r . Owen he should join the Society with his wife & 
 family. General Evans expressed himself much to the same 
 purpose. M r . Brown wished us to write to M r . Owen that 
 he might use his influence with the postmaster General to 
 have the mail carried between this place & Princetown in a 
 stage instead of on horseback as at present. General Evans 
 conversed with me a considerable time about the Indian 
 Tribes. He said that he settled in this country about 9 years 
 ago, when it was covered with Indians, that he had constant 
 intercourse with them, learnt enough of their language to 
 have a little conversation with them, and that he discovered 
 much to admire in them. When he had [*] occasion to go 
 away from home for a few days, he would go to some 
 neighbouring camp where he had Indian acquaintance, tell 
 them he wished them to protect his house & family while 
 he was away ; & two or three of the men & squaws would 
 remove & build their hut close to his house, remaining there 
 as a guard of safety till his return. He added that he never 
 was so safe as when surrounded by Indians. Sometimes 
 his horses would get loose & stray away into the woods. He 
 would acquaint the Indians of it, & 2 or 3 young men would 
 start off, & never return till they caught them. This service 
 he repaid with corn or whisky. When a party of them 
 began drinking, one would always take their arms & put 
 them on one side and keep himself sober as a guard over 
 the others. Afterwards if any quarrelled they would run 
 for their arms, but finding them set apart & a sober com- 
 panion in charge, they would cease their dispute, being above 
 contention by blows or wrestling. Sometimes they would 
 borrow 7 from him, or trade with him for rifles or other 
 articles which he had purchased for the purpose of bartering 
 with them. If they could not pay at the time, [*] they (Sunday 9* h . 
 would promise to return & pay him on a certain day. If they J any cont^) 
 had procured their furs before the appointed time, & returned 
 to their camps they would not come to him till the day they 
 
270 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 had named ; but he never was once deceived by any of 
 them. He then gave me some description & account of 
 Tecumseh. This Indian chief was a fine figure of a man, 
 and a wonderful clever & well informed person for a natural 
 Indian. When he had his interview with General Harrison 
 Governor of the state, the general first invited his own 
 company & friends to be seated, after which he told the 
 interpreter to say to Tecumseh that his Father wished to 
 have a friendly meeting with him & invited him to be 
 seated. He used the term father in imitation of the Indians 
 w r ho style the President of the U. States their great Father. 
 Tecumseh who had been much huffed that he himself had 
 not been looked upon as the greatest person in company 
 and given a chair before the General's friends, replied 
 indignantly "You, my Father ! No. The Sun is my Father. 
 "The Earth is my Mother, and I will repose myself upon 
 "her lap," and seating himself upon the ground, was imitated 
 by all his followers. 
 Monday io*h This morning was beautifully [*] clear. The glass 
 
 - Tany stood at 22°. When the sun rose the day became pleasantly 
 
 warm in the sun. The Princetown party conversed much 
 about M r . Owen's new system. General Evans described 
 to me the way the State of Indiana is divided into Dis- 
 tricts & Ranges. A base line was fixed running East & west 
 nearly through the middle of the State, and a meridian line 
 on the eastern extremity. Another meridian line was marked 
 off every 6 miles west, and other lines every 6 miles 
 north & south of the base line, were marked off parallel to 
 that line. Thus each District contains 36 square miles or 
 sections as they are called, containing 640 acres, and is 
 described as being the I st 2 n <l or 3 rd &c district, north or 
 south of the base line, and in the I st 2 nd or 3 rd &c West range. 
 Engineers were appointed by government to survey these 
 lines, as well as the lines dividing the sections, at the rate 
 of $3 a day. They measured straight through the woods, and 
 at the angles marked 4 convenient trees, & specified upon 
 them the distance & the direction by compass to the exact 
 spot where they drove in a picket to mark the point where 
 the lines crossed. — The unsold lands are called congress 
 lands. There is a land office in every county for the sale 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 271 
 
 of lands. 1 [*] The government price is one and a quarter 
 dollar an acre, and the smallest lot is i/8* n of a section 
 or 80 acres, amounting to 100$. The Eastern Mail leaves 
 Princetown every Thursday morning. There are 2 senators 
 and 3 representatives in congress for the State of Indiana. 
 M r . Jacob Call residing in Vincennes is one. They receive 
 3 dollars a day during the sitting of congress, and this is 
 continued 20 days before & after. Their letters go free of 
 any weight. The members of this State's Legislature 
 receive 2$ a day. Every proprietor is taxed for the repair 
 of roads ; but no one can be taxed more than 4 days 
 labour, the tax upon a quarter section of land. General Evans 
 wrote a letter to M r . Call the member, introducing M r . Owen 
 to him; this letter we put under another cover together with 
 letters to M r . Owen & a copy of the notice. In the afternoon 
 we visited some of the farmyards & stables, & cotton 
 manufactory, & walked about three miles up the river bank. In 
 the evening we went to the church, where about 10 of the 
 band of the Harmonians played some marches & waltzes to 
 us. W m . Owen received a note from M r . George Flower 
 mentioning that M r . M c Intosh who lives at the falls of the 
 Wabash below Vincennes was desirous of becoming [*] a 
 member of the Society, and he added that a disagreement had 
 lately taken place in Vincennes between several f rench families 
 & their priest, & that as these families were going to remove, 
 he thought about 30 of them would join the Society. — This 
 information we gave in our letters to M r . Owen. 
 
 This day was beautifully fine & clear. At 7 o'clock Tuesday n*. 
 in the morning the ther r . stood at 24 but the sun soon 
 made the day agreeably warm. After breakfast I looked at 
 two horses, one a large grey barb belonging to General Evans 
 for 100$, the other a Black well made little horse for 45$. 
 M r . Baker at the Harmonite store looked at one for us, a 
 young bay horse out of condition for 55$. I understood 
 that an excellent hack ought not to cost above 40$, though 
 the price had been higher 4 years ago. — The Princetown 
 party left us with many invitations to visit them; and 
 
 J Macdonald was in error. Land offices were widely scattered over 
 the state, at Vincennes, Jeffersonville, Brookville, Crawfordsville, and 
 Fort Wavne. — Ed. 
 
 Dec' 
 
272 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Mr. Carter, & Mr & Mrs. Birkett arrived from Albion. We 
 shewed our notice to them, and likewise to a blacksmith 
 trader from Wheeling. They approved much of it. — After 
 dinner we went to visit the wooden granary, and the 
 mill, cotton & woolen Manufactours & dye house, all turned 
 (Tuesday nth by a steam Engine [*] In the evening I gave M r . Baker, the 
 Jany cont<*) storekeeper, the notice to read. A M r . Alexander Stuart from 
 
 Perthshire called with a letter from M r . George Flower. He 
 is settled 15 miles west of Wanborough. He is a farrier & 
 veterinary surgeon by trade, & wished to have a copy of 
 M r . Owen's proposals. 
 Wednesday 12th. \ beautifully clear & calm morning. Ther r . 24 . The 
 
 ^ 3J)y - sun rose brilliantly. I omitted to mention that in the course 
 
 of conversation on Sunday evening General Evans described 
 the state of French Society at Vincennes when he first 
 arrived there 9 years ago. There were there then many 
 very respectable, intelligent french families in good circum- 
 stances. They carried on business enough to make them 
 comfortable and keep up an active intercourse with the 
 inhabitants of S r . Louis & the other french settlements. 
 [°they kept the settlement in a pretty & flourishing state. 
 Their houses were neat, and the grounds around them well 
 cultivated & dressed up with flower gardens.] On Sundays 
 he would see them coming in crowds from mass and hastening 
 to the race course where they would amuse themselves all 
 day, & in the evening have dances & balls. The first ball 
 he was at he was made acquainted with one of their customs 
 by having the trick played upon himself. While standing 
 in conversation with a gentleman [*] at one end of the 
 ball-room, a lady came up entered into conversation with 
 him & before he was aware of it sewed a ticket on the lappet 
 of his coat. This was a signal that he was engaged to give 
 the next ball & be the king of it. His friend then informed 
 him that he must choose his queen from among the ladies 
 in the room, x [ x in the same manner, by fastening the 
 ticket, when unobserved, on the sleeve of one of them, then] 
 presenting his hand to her, kissing her cheek (not her mouth 
 which would be an offence) and dancing with her. This 
 he performed, gave his ball which cost him above 60$ (as 
 it was customary to pay for a new ball-dress for his queen) 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 273 
 
 and afterwards was considered a member of their society 
 and admitted to all their amusements. Latterly however he 
 observed that many of the principal families had gone away 
 and the majority of the remaining settlers were poor & less 
 industrious. Princetown is 26 or 28 miles from this, and 
 Vincennes 22 or 24 from thence. After dinner we rode 
 two of M r . Rapp's horses 8 miles into the woods to see an 
 oil mill and a saw mill separated from one another about 
 a quarter of a mile, & built on a small creek which was 
 dammed up to give sufficient falls of water. They were 
 not at work. Thence we rode a couple [*] of miles through 
 the wood on the Princetown side to a small prairie about 100 
 yards long & a field & cowherd's shed by the river side. Here 
 they send their cattle & young horses in the spring to get 
 young grass. No one was at either of the mills, & the 
 hostler who rode with us told us that it was very seldom 
 that any thing was touched or taken away. On our return 
 we found two Shakers from Bussora at the Tavern, and 
 had some conversation with them. They were dressed in 
 grey frock coats & chocolate coloured trowsers. Their 
 manners were plain and their behaviour quiet & unassuming. 
 One of them had lived at Water fliet, and appeared well 
 pleased at learning that we had been there. Their number 
 at Bussora is between 40 & 50. There are altogether in the 
 states 13 societies consisting of about 4000 persons. They 
 only trade with the public enough to supply themselves 
 with the articles of consumption which they cannot produce 
 at home. They feed silkworms from the leaves of the 
 wild mulberry, and make silks. One of them shewed me 
 a black silk handkerchief of their own making, which he 
 was wearing round his neck. It was strong and well 
 made. Some of [*] the longer established societies, he 
 said, made silks of a very superior description. They use 
 coffee made from rye, which they are very fond of. They 
 are going to try to grow the tea plant which they have been 
 assured is likely to thrive in this country. Bussora is 18 
 miles by the road but only 12 miles directly north up the 
 Wabash from Vincennes. They think the vine will thrive 
 particularly well, as it is the natural & abundant production 
 in every part of the woods around them. The warm 
 
274 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Thursday 13 th . 
 J any. 
 
 (Thursday 1 3 th 
 Jan>' contd) 
 
 Friday 14 th . 
 J any. 
 
 Saturday 15 th 
 J any 
 
 sun & the cold nights & sharp frosts sometimes injure & kill 
 the S. West sides of the apple & peach trees. They make 
 a great deal of cider, which they consider the best beverage. 
 When going to travel on horseback in cold weather they take 
 a draught of cider with ginger in it, which warms the whole 
 body. The names of the Shakers were Meecham & McLeland. 
 
 [Weather cloudy & damp.] After breakfast we rode 
 over to Albion to see the Flowers. W r e were accompanied 
 the greater part of the way by M r . Steele who lives in 
 Albion. M r . Flower [*] was confined with the gout; 
 M rs . Pickering still seriously ill in bed; & M rs . Ronalds just 
 brought to bed of a girl. 
 
 The early part of the morning was rainy, & the whole 
 of the day cloudy, but not cold. — Judge Wattles called in 
 the afternoon, and had some conversation about M r . Owen's 
 plan. He expressed himself very favorable to it, and said 
 that he thought if M r . Owen made it well understood in the 
 Eastern States, that a great many of the best Mechanics 
 would join him at once. M r . Brissenden a farmer & friend 
 of M r . John Wood called ; he seemed very desirous of 
 joining the Society, but spoke of some small cash debts 
 which he & his friend had, which they must settle before 
 they could leave their property and bring their stock into 
 the Society. In the evening we received a joint letter from 
 the two, asking several questions relative to the arrangements 
 of the association, which we answered by telling them that 
 M r . Owen would answer them on his return. [M r . George 
 Flower told us that M r . M c Intosh seemed disposed to join 
 the Society, that his property on the falls of the Wabash 
 would hereafter be very valuable ; and that the french families 
 who were thinking of removing from Vincennes, were 
 talking of settling on the land between the Ohio & W r abash 
 rivers, & near the mouth of the latter.] 
 
 The morning was fine, & though there was a little 
 breeze & flying clouds from the south, the day was 
 mild, & like spring weather. After breakfast we called 
 at M»\ Ronalds, Judge Wattles & M". Carters & returned 
 to Harmony. — On our way we [*] met M r . & M rs . Birket & 
 M r . Carter, returning to Albion. As we came out of 
 Judge Wattles' house we met D r . Pugsley who introduced 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 275 
 
 himself & said he intended riding over to Harmonie 
 tomorrow. We found the two Shakers still at Harmonie. 
 
 In the night it froze, but at seven o'clock the morning Sunday 16*. 
 was beautiful, without a cloud & the trier - *, at 34 . & rising Jany 
 fast. The wind was blowing a pleasant breeze from the 
 west by south. The Shakers left very early. After dinner 
 we walked to the bank of the Wabash below the cut off. I 
 
 From these ridges we had a fine view of the river. On our 
 return we found D r . Pugsley, & Mr. Hall & M r . Clarke from 
 Albion. We sat in conversation with them all the evening. 
 
 After breakfast we walked south through the woods to the Monday t;^. 
 banks of the Wabash below the cut off. The three English 
 visitors were very much pleased with the scenery. We returned 
 by the cut off mill. We spent the evening in discussion. 
 
 After Breakfast we [*] went with the English visitors Tuesday i8* h . 
 to see the oilmill & saw mill. There were two men at work 
 at each. After dinner we went to see the Distillery, the 
 Steam Engine, the Thrashing machine and Piggery. 
 
 This day the 3 English returned to Albion. After dinner Wednesday 19 th . 
 we went through the Turner's shop, Tanyard, soap boiler's, 
 Washhouse & hat manufactory. [This evening a letter came 
 from Rich d . Brenchley tailor in Albion offering to join.] 
 
 We rode to Springfield & thence went to M r . Phillips Thursday 2o* h . 
 schoolmaster & land surveyor. The school is a poor one. The 
 children looked rather pale & not healthy. He himself was 
 sickly. We dined at Springfield with M r . Schnee & 
 M r . Stewart. After dinner we saw a Hatter who resides 
 there & is disposed to join the Society at Harmonie. He 
 is not in good health. On our return in the evening we 
 found two English settlers arrived from the Hornbrook 
 settlement 10 miles from Evansville & 28 miles from 
 hence. Their names M r . Saunders Hornbrook who had a 
 Woolen Manufactory near Plymouth & emigrated to this 
 country about 6 years ago ; & M r . Medloe who had a 
 farm in Hampshire & came over at the same time. They 
 conversed [*] in a way to shew that they would be willing to 
 join the Society here, if M r . Owen's terms should suit their 
 views. — [This evening two letters arrived for & one from 
 Mi*. Owen. The latter dated Louisville the 9 th ins 1 .] The 
 weather has been fine & dry all this week, & the nights frosty. 
 
276 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Friday 2i*t. A beautiful morning. ther r . 23 at 7 o'clock. 
 
 On Saturday we sent of f a letter to Hunter by a Traveller 
 going to New Orleans. On Monday we took some measure- 
 ments of the Town. On Tuesday we rode through the Cut Off 
 Island with M r . Richard one of the store keepers. Various 
 parts are above the flood mark. Some of them are cleared 
 & log houses built for cattle. We saw a good many 
 feeding, & some colts. There is a small prairie on which 
 there is good grass. M r . Richard believes that there is 
 something in the nature of the ground which prevents the 
 growth of wood. The island is about 6 miles long & from 
 two to three wide. We met one of the farmers; he said 
 that there were 100 deer in the island. We saw a few at 
 a great distance. The wild turkies are abundant. People 
 from the boats going up & down, are in the habit of 
 (Tuesday 25th. landing [*] and shooting a great many. They take dogs 
 Jany contd) w j t ^ them, who stand at the foot of the trees barking while 
 
 the shooter takes a deliberate aim from behind a neighbouring 
 trees. The turkies are too intent looking down at the dogs 
 to observe him. The island is a rich soil and the timber 
 upon it large & thick. We saw a great number of very 
 large buckhorn trees. — 
 
 On Wednesday we wrote letters. I wrote M rs . Kemmis 
 & M r . Hamilton. In the afternoon some American gentlemen 
 called to inquire about M r . Owen's plan ; from Evansville 
 a M r . Crockwell, baker & grocer ; from Cynthiana a farmer, 
 & another person ; & a M r . Morris Tavern keeper from 
 Carmi Illinois, wishing to rent the Harmonie tavern. 
 
 On Thursday M r . Jaques & his son in law M r . Rankins, 
 [Likewise a M r . Mathew from beyond Bon pas.] conversed 
 with us, & invited us to visit them 9 miles on the Prince 
 town road. In the afternoon we rode 3 miles south to a 
 sawmill, on a creek which runs down to the river opposite 
 to Denis' ferry. The creek has enough water, but the dam 
 was broken down last flood. The situation is pleasant & the 
 buildings new. It would not [*] be much trouble to repair 
 the dam, & set the mill again at work. It is a mile from 
 the Wabash. We thence rode down to the river. The 
 Ferryman lives on the other side, on a tract of rich land 
 belonging to this property. On this side there is a small 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 277 
 
 farm. In the course of our ride we passed 2 old farms, out 
 
 of which the people had been bought. — A great part of our 
 
 time we passed in visiting the town, measuring many 
 
 places, looking at the manufactories, workshops & empty 
 
 houses, and making a rough plan as a memorandum, till the 
 
 complete one made by M r . Pickering last fall shall arrive. In 
 
 the evenings we observed the stars and had astronomical 
 
 conversations with Miss Gertrude & D r . Millar. The 
 
 weather continued remarkably clear & fine. A little frost at 
 
 night & a warm sun in the day. No wind, & only now & then 
 
 a small thin cloud. — The ther 1 ". in the morning ranged from 
 
 16 , 18 , 22 & 24 to 29 , 30°. 37 & 41 for the Friday 28^. 
 
 last week.— [*] I a * y 
 
 M r . Lewis from Albion arrived. We visited some of Saturday 29 th . 
 the workshops, & continued taking notes for our rough Jaay. 
 sketch. On Sunday M r . Clarke's two sons arrived. We saw 
 in the Shawnee town Paper a letter stating that M r . Owen's 
 'New View of Society' was in the New York Press. We 
 therefore sat down to write a statement of the Principles & 
 Practice for insertion in that Paper, thinking that the subject Sunday 30*. 
 was misunderstood & that a letter relative to it would be 
 well received. This day our letters went off. — The Post 
 arrives here from Princetown every thursday forenoon & goes 
 on to Shawneetown, which it again leaves on Saturday & 
 passes through this place early on Sunday morning, the 
 distance from Shawneetown being from 35 to 40 miles. 
 There are two or three roads ; one by Rood's ferry & across 
 Fox Island into the Vincennes road ; another to Denis' Ferry 
 3 miles down the Wabash ; and a third by Springfield & across 
 the Wabash 5 miles above its mouth. The latter is the post 
 road. The first has 6 miles of bad road through a part of 
 Fox Island & a creek to cross ; and the second has a marsh 
 to cross. — We got D r . Miller to print a hundred copies of 
 the Notice which we had drawn out, and we [*] gave some 
 to the neighbours who called to enquire about M r . Owen. — A 
 M r . Owens from Bloomington, Monroe County in this 
 State, about 50 miles south of Indianapolis & 130 north of 
 this, arrived; he came for the purpose of making enquiries 
 concerning the Harmonie flocks & the management of 
 sheep, & likewise to hear something of M r . Owen's 
 
278 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 I s *. Feby. 
 Tuesday 
 
 Wednesday 2 nd 
 Feby 
 
 Friday 4 th . 
 Feb> 
 
 Plan. — M r . Lewis went back to Albion & returned on 
 Tuesday I st . Feby. for the purpose of making himself 
 acquainted with the process of making candles & boiling 
 soap, which business he proposed to follow in M r . Owen's 
 Establishment. — We had long conversations with M r . Owens 
 & excited so much interest in his mind relative to the New 
 System that he requested to copy the Letter to the Editor of 
 the Shawneetown Paper, promising to have it printed in the 
 Paper published in his town. — The tw r o Young Clarke's after 
 visiting the different manufactories &c in the Town re- 
 turned; and likewise M r . Lewis. We sent by M r . Lewis 
 copies of the Notice to M r . Flower & to M r . Birbeck. A 
 M r . Maguire, settled on the Princeton road, called. He 
 wished to join M r . Owen. In the afternoon we saw [*] him 
 drunk. W r e read in the Baltimore American Farmer a notice 
 relative to an Italian gentleman wishing to be engaged to 
 manage vineyards. We therefore wrote to the Editor to beg 
 he would direct him to apply to M r . Owen. I had a long 
 discussion with D r Smith about M r . Owen's Plan. [The 
 weather for some days had been clear & frosty.] 
 
 [About 5 o'clock this morning, the thermometer being 
 down at 6°., about 8o of the men turned out with clubs & 
 hoes, and knocked off all the corn stalks standing on from 
 6o to 8o acres of land, before breakfast. They chose this 
 hour as the stalks are very brittle during a hard frost & be- 
 fore sunrise ; & shewed by this method the power of Union. 
 After the above process the stalks are left to rot on the 
 ground if any crop be in it already; otherwise they are 
 sometimes cut in two or three pieces & plowed in, or they are 
 harrowed together & burnt. We went out and for some time 
 joined in the work.] We set out after breakfast for 
 Princeton on two of M r . Rapp's horses with a pair of saddle 
 bags & with Kentucky leggins, which consist of pieces of 
 cloth passed twice round the leg from the heel to a few 
 inches above the knee & tied with garters. They are very 
 convenient. We had M r . Owens as a travelling companion. — 
 The weather was dry but cold & cloudy. The road was 
 through well timbered lands for above io miles, & several 
 small settlements. It was rough & ran over the ends of 
 small ridges which lose themselves on the flats near the 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 279 
 
 course of the Wabash. The road afterwards went for some 
 miles over the sandy barrens where the timber was extremely 
 stunted, & consisted of a dwarf black oak. — The last 8 or 
 ten miles of the road [*] to Princeton passed through a 
 roling country of rich land thickly timbered. [We overtook 
 a brother of Gen 1 . Evans on the road, who accompanied us 
 into the Town.] We reached Princeton distant 28 miles, 
 between 4 & 5 o'clock, and put up at M r . Brown's Tavern, 
 which is at present kept by M r . Daniels. Here we again met 
 Gen 1 *. Evans & Neily, Mr. Arbuthnot, & Mr. Hall.— We 
 were attended to as well as the house could afford, but had 
 to sleep in the same bed, while M r . Owens occupied another 
 in the same room. 
 
 Princeton stands on an open level place. The land Saturday 5th. 
 around is rich & well wooded. The town is scattered : it Feby - 
 has a sort of a square in the middle with a courthouse & 
 small jail; the former built of brick. Many of the houses 
 are frame built, & some of them painted. There may be 
 from 150 to 200 families in this settlement. — [M r . Owens 
 left us this morning for Vincennes.] After breakfast 
 we walked with M r . Brown & Gen 1 . Evans & called on 
 M r . Phillips an Englishman who has been settled on some 
 lands adjoining to the town for 6 years. His farm house 
 is built upon a hill overlooking the town. He has cleared a 
 large quantity of ground & brought it into a good state of 
 cultivation. In Great Britain he was a considerable Mail 
 coach proprietor & well known. He left off business on 
 account of the bad state of his health, travelled through the 
 United States, and [*] at length taking a fancy to this spot 
 fixed himself here. He says that he was very much imposed 
 upon & had many difficulties to contend against. We called 
 on M r . Hall who was in his law office, & on M r . Arbuthnot 
 who was in his saddler's shop. We conversed with several 
 of the inhabitants relative to M r . Owen's Plans, & drank tea 
 at Gen 1 Evans where we were introduced to M rs . Evans & 
 three of his sisters. — It was in Princeton that M r . Birbeck 
 remained with his family for several months after he first 
 came to this country, and here he wrote his pamphlet on 
 Emigration. He spent a good deal of ready money & lost 
 a season by his unwillingness to adopt the American system 
 
280 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 of farming in those respects which were best fitted for this 
 soil & climate, and in the postage money which he was 
 continually paying. His two daughters made themselves 
 disliked by the females here. — 
 Sunday 6th. After breakfast we set out for Vincennes, M r . Phillips 
 
 Feby accompanying us. We were overtaken by Gen 1 . Evans who 
 
 accompanied us through a thick wood & rich land to the 
 other side of the Patoka river to a settlement called Columbia 
 which was first established with the idea that it would be 
 made a county town; but that not [*] being the case it had 
 declined. It has now only two or three families in it. [In 
 the course of the ride Gen 1 . Evans expressed to me his good 
 opinion of M r . Owen's plan, & said that he should make 
 haste to return from Virginia whither he was about to go on 
 business, in order to see M r . Owen. Should he be able to 
 make an agreement with him, he w r ould be happy to join 
 the Society.] The Patoka is a small stream not above 40 feet 
 wide ; it has however a long winding course, swells in rainy 
 weather, and enters the Wabash river a short distance below 
 the mouth of the White river, & a little lower down than 
 Mount Carmel on the right bank of the Wabash. — We 
 crossed a bridge & proceeded by Major Rob's farm to the 
 White river which is nearly as broad as the Wabash, & is 
 navigable for boats a great distance inland. There are two 
 ferries; we took the upper one, which is 12 miles from 
 Princeton. The river was very low, caused by the long dry 
 weather. The banks are sandy. — The river makes a bend 
 between the two ferries, so that on the north side the distance 
 from one to the other is not above a mile; so w r e were 
 told. — M r . Dick a Scotch farmer, has a property here, his 
 house is near the lower ferry. — Both sides of this river are 
 flooded on the rising of the waters. We travelled the rest 
 of the way to Vincennes through small black oak & a sandy 
 \J soil. The Evansville coach which arrived last evening at 
 (Sunday 6th. Princeton, [*] overtook us at a settlement where we stopt 
 
 for a few minutes. It is a covered two horse spring waggon. 
 It runs once a week between Vincennes & Evansville. It 
 takes two days to go the distance which is 23 & 27 = 50 
 miles; — fare 3 1/2 dollars. We reached Vincennes between 
 3 & 4 o'clock, & put up at M rs . Jones, a tolerable tavern for 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 281 
 
 this country. The town is a scattered place standing on the 
 left bank of the Wabash, and surrounded on the other sides 
 by a prairie of small extent, which resembles in some manner 
 an English race course. The houses are for the most part 
 small frame buildings ; but there are a few brick houses. The 
 gardens are inclosed by palings, but they do not appear 
 neat. [The population we understood to be from 300 to 400 
 families. The opposite side of the river is woody & low 
 for some distance back. The prairie behind the town is 
 subject in part to inundation during the high stages of the 
 river floods.] This town was settled more than a century 
 ago by a colony of Canadian French of a poor and illiterate 
 description. They used to carry on an active trade with the 
 native Indians, who inhabited in great numbers all the 
 surrounding country. By their conciliatory manners they 
 contrived always to live on good terms with them, and 
 latterly when the Americans were at war with the Indians & 
 wished to buy their lands or drive them west, their friendly 
 behaviour to the Indians [*] served to produce a coldness 
 on the part of the Americans, which has prevented them 
 mixing together. Within the last few years several french 
 families have moved away ; some into the woods & others 
 to S*. Louis, Kascaskia & other French settlements on the 
 Mississippi & Missouri & in the western territories. We 
 remarked a number of houses out of repair, or shut 
 up. — Before supper we called on M r . Hay, the agent for 
 M r . Rapp. He was not at home, but we found M rs . Hay & 
 M rs . Elston, wife of an Englishman, who has a situation 
 in the land office here. We then walked to the end of the 
 town, where we saw some flat & keel boats building. They 
 are intended to carry down produce to the Orleans market 
 as soon as the waters rise. A M r . Massey a gentleman from 
 the north of England settled here joined us. Two of the 
 boats belonged to him. One he was building on a new 
 construction, to carry cattle below & grain above. He 
 intended to go down himself. M r . Phillips said that he 
 went down in company with Gen 1 . Neily one season, but 
 that the fatigue of it was so great & the chance of selling 
 produce to such advantage as to defray all expences so 
 uncertain [*] that he would never embark again on another 
 
282 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Monday 7 th . 
 Feby. 
 
 (Monday 7 th 
 Feby contd. ) 
 
 similar expedition. The boats sometimes cost ioo$ build- 
 ing, & when sold after discharging the cargo frequently fetch 
 no more than 5$. There is no water power at Vincennes. 
 This want has in some degree been supplied by a steam & an 
 ox mill. Some years back a bank was set up here. While it 
 was in credit, business was alive in the place & the town 
 began to improve; but it failed & since that period things 
 have been on the decline. M r . Hay called just before 
 supper & asked us to his house in the evening. There we 
 met Judge Blackford who is Judge of this district including 
 Posey County. He is an agreeable & well-informed man. He 
 boards at M rs . Jones'. We also met M r . Elston. They were 
 all desirous of hearing about M r . Owen. — This day was very 
 fine & mild. In the evening however it became cloudy, and 
 at night a warm S. W. wind brought rain. 
 
 After breakfast we called on M r . Hay and saw the 
 Harmony store which is in a large room of his house which 
 is one of the best in the town & stands at the corner of the 
 two principal streets, and close to the Illinois Ferry. The 
 room opens into the street & seems to be much resorted 
 to. M r . Hay walked through part of the [*] town w r ith, and 
 called on D r . MacName who has a good brick house, one of 
 the best, if not the best in the place. — M r . Phillips took his 
 leave of us, & set off in the rain for Princetown. We walked 
 with M r . Massey to the Receiver's office in a large brick 
 building. The principal room is made a Public Library. As 
 it was a day of meeting for the Shareholders, w r e met & were 
 introduced to several persons. Among the number were 
 M r . Baddolet Head of the Land office, a frenchman, & father 
 in law to M r . Caldwell at Shawneetown ; — M r . Harrison, son 
 of General Harrison & receiver, & librarian ; Judge Blackford, 
 President of the Library Directors ; D r . Kuykendall ; M r . Scott 
 Presbiterian minister; & some others w r hose names we did 
 not hear distinctly. Several resolutions were passed relative 
 to buying new books, exchanging others & selling old ones, 
 and relative to subscribers in debt & reducing the annual 
 subscription from 2$ down to one. This last proposal was 
 rejected. — This business occupied two or three hours, & 
 proved the poverty of the inhabitants. — In the [*] course 
 of the afternoon we wrote a letter to M r . Owen & inclosed 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 283 
 
 one of the Notices. The Post from Louisville arrives 
 Tuesday morning about 10 o'clock, & sets out again about 
 mid-day. The calculation is that letters reach Washington 
 City in 14 or 15 days, & thence to Vincennes in 17 or 18 
 days. — We drank tea at M r . Hay's where we met a widow lady 
 of the name of Smith, and the Misses MacName & Kuykendall 
 two fine girls. — A great want in the free States is attendance 
 for all domestic purposes ; and persons in good circumstances 
 have either to do the duties of the house entirely themselves, 
 or procure the uncertain help of free blacks. This must be 
 the case in a state of society, where families live separately 
 and uphold the practice of equality. — Surely if Equality be 
 a good principle of society, the proper practice to be followed 
 in a country where it prevails is to unite in associations, in 
 each of which all the children should be educated together 
 in the best manner, & taught in early life to wait upon the 
 old, with the prospect of being waited [*] upon in their 
 turn when they were advanced in years. — Without such a 
 regular proceeding the many disadvantages of rudeness, 
 folly, & discomfort, will be sure to follow from uncultivated 
 minds, irregular habits & want of system in performing the 
 various duties of social life. [W r ind S. West.] 
 
 [The day was mild & cloudy when we set out. After Tuesday 8* 
 midday it began to rain & continued the rest of the day & all F6by - 
 night. W r ind N. E.] After taking leave of our friends we 
 set out for M r . W m . M c Intosh's. W r e were accompanied for 
 a few miles by M r . Hay & M r . Elston. We rode down the 
 left bank of the Wabash through a prairie & passed a small 
 settlement of French families, situated on the more elevated 
 part, as a great portion of the prairie is subject to inunda- 
 tion. We then entered the forest & passed over a rich 
 bottom. We had intended to keep the Shawneetown 
 road & cross the river at Vallees ferry, but missed the road 
 to the right & continued down the low ground passing over 
 a creek & between some ponds till we reached a small rapid 
 in the river and a small settlement on both sides of the 
 river. On the right bank stood a mill belonging to a 
 Mr. Beedel. Thinking this to be the ferry we ought to cross 
 at, we hailed the boat, which in a few minutes passed us 
 over to the other side. Had [*] we continued three miles 
 
284 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 further we should have reached the Grand rapids where we 
 could have got across & soon reached our destination. We 
 asked the ferryman the way to M r . M c Intosh's. He directed 
 up the hill about two miles along the road to Vincennes 
 which we should have taken had we crossed where we 
 intended. The ground over which we travelled is covered 
 by water in the flood season to the depth of several feet. — At 
 length we reached a small squared loghouse at which an 
 little elderly man was standing. We asked him if he were 
 M r . M c Intosh; he said he was, invited us to dismount & 
 hoped we would stop the night with him. As soon as 
 we were in his house, we discovered that we were with a 
 M r . John M c Intosh, & not the gentleman we intended to 
 visit. We mentioned our error but expressed our thanks 
 for his hospitable reception. His wife gave us a good 
 dinner of eggs, ham & cornbread & tea, and we passed the 
 evening talking with him & his son, relative to M r . Owen's 
 plan & concerning Scotland and the American revolution 
 in which the old man was concerned. About 9 o'clock he 
 gave us prayers & read a chapter from the Bible recommend- 
 ing a community of goods. [*] We sung a psalm in favor of 
 Union, and in his prayer he remembered it likewise, praying 
 that communities might be established. — He told us that he 
 was a Baptist, but wished to live on a liberal footing with all 
 men. He also observed that [he] was a turner, & could 
 make as good spinning wheels as any man, and while his 
 'Woman 5 spun & worked in the house, they could easily 
 earn a comfortable support for themselves. The son was 
 married & lived in an adjoining house. The old man & his 
 wife slept in a bed in one corner of the room, & W m . Owen & 
 myself in another. The rain fell heavily during the night. 
 Wednesday 9th After breakfast we set out for M r . W m . M c Intosh's. The 
 
 Feby dd man rode part of the way to shew us the road & then 
 
 took his leave after giving us very pointed directions. [We 
 passed a farm belonging to M r . Kean, & stopped to wish 
 him good day.] Our road lay along the ends of the 
 ridges, just above the flat ground on the right bank of the 
 Wabash. After riding four or five miles w<e came to 
 Palmyra, a settlement on a bank by the river side. It was 
 a county seat, but as this was removed the place declined, and 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 285 
 
 at length only one family remained in it. M r . \V ni . Mcintosh 
 
 afterwards alluded to this, & remarked that changes of this 
 
 sort were sometimes made through the influence of interested 
 
 persons, and [*] thus much capital was wasted in roads & (Wednesday cA 
 
 other public works. — From Palmyra we crossed two creeks, Feby cont •) 
 
 one by a bridge & the other by a ford. In consequence of the 
 
 heavy rain these creeks were full of water ; & we were much 
 
 wet crossing the ford. We were much puzzled to find the 
 
 footpath which turned off to the left after crossing the ford. 
 
 The road which we had come thus far, led across a prairie 
 
 to Bon Pas. — At length we found a track which led us up to 
 
 ]\J r . Simon's farm, where we received directions & thence 
 
 crossed down to the river side and found M r . M c Intosh's 
 
 house on a little rising bank close to a small descent in the 
 
 channel of the river, which is called the Grand Rapids. The 
 
 rising of a few feet of water renders this place navigable 
 
 for flat & keel boats, and the house during the height of 
 
 the flood becomes isolated. M r . M c Intosh received us 
 
 kindly, and as the following day proved very rainy detained 
 
 us at his house. He has a black housekeeper by whom he Thursday io** 
 
 has several children. His partiality for the Blacks procures 
 
 the assistance of one who comes from Mount Carmel distant 
 
 two miles. His house is a frame building containing two 
 
 rooms. There are some small out buildings. He has very 
 
 little land [*] cleared or cultivated around his house which 
 
 is shut in on all sides by the forest except next the river the 
 
 opposite bank of which, however is thickly covered with wood 
 
 and a very low bottom. — In consequence of M r . Mcintosh's 
 
 connection with this black female, his character is lost among 
 
 the Americans, and he lives quite retired from all society. 
 
 Our time was passed in conversation. He spoke of the 
 
 fall of the value of land & his embarrassments therefrom ; of 
 
 the advantageous situation he resided upon for the site of 
 
 a mill, & his want of capital ; of his life while he resided 
 
 at Vincennes. He was a Major & public treasurer under 
 
 General Harrison, and had much intercourse with the 
 
 French & Indians. He came from Inverness, held a British 
 
 commission in Canada, resigned it as he could not live on 
 
 his pay. He gave us an account of the proceedings of the 
 
 Americans in purchasing & getting possession of the lands 
 
286 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 of the Indians, and the wars which had taken place. On this 
 subject he had a misunderstanding with General Harrison & 
 resigned his public office. He intended, he said, if his mind 
 should ever be in a state for it, to [*] w r rite some account 
 of these matters & place them in a more correct point of view 
 than as they appeared in General Harrison's life. He seemed 
 very fond of his children. His little son had been subject 
 to ague fits for two years. M r . M c Intosh frequently spoke 
 of his intention of sending his children to M r . Owen's 
 Society; but we said nothing on the subject as we did not 
 know how far it would be wise, in the first instance so 
 decidedly to oppose the feelings of the American People. We 
 slept together in one bed, in a room in which M r . M c Intosh 
 slept with one or two of his children. In the evenings the 
 Black man & his housekeeper sat in the same room 
 with & occasionally joined in the conversation. We observed 
 that a bed & bedclothes were brought into the sitting room. I 
 suppose that in consequence of our occupying one of their 
 beds, they were obliged to make up beds in the sitting room. 
 Friday nth. This morning the wind was to the west of South, and 
 
 eby - the weather appeared to be clearing up. After breakfast we 
 
 set out to return to Harmony. M r . AMntosh accompanied 
 us as far as Mount Carmel, two miles from his house. This 
 settlement contains between 20 & 30 families. It was settled 
 about 6 years ago. It stands on a high ridge of rich soil 
 on the right bank of the Wabash, opposite to [*] the 
 mouths of the White river and Patoka creek w r hich run 
 very near to each other before they fall into the Wabash. We 
 called on M r . Stewart who keeps a small store. He rode down 
 to the river side with us and his son-in-law ferried us across 
 to the left bank & landed us just below the Patoka. They 
 were preparing boats to set out for the Orleans market. With 
 the late rain the river had risen already between two & three 
 feet, and it was expected to continue rising as all the 
 creeks & tributary streams were full of Water. Mount 
 Carmel is considered a healthy place. It has one doctor, 
 D r . Smith, resident in it. When the place is more settled, 
 cleared out & arranged, it will be a pleasant situation. It is 
 18 miles from Albion. Our ferryman went a few hundred 
 yards through the Cane Brake to put us into a foot path 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 287 
 
 which he directed us to follow south for some miles. The 
 land was flat, rich & thickly wooded. The little foot 
 path wound along the side of a bayou for four or five 
 miles, when we came to a small settlement on a rising- 
 bank. Here we received further directions for crossing 
 some creeks & a long slash & following a cow-path to the left 
 hand. The road was extremely bad & difficult to find. The 
 slash, as it is called in the language of the country, is a swamp 
 made by [*] a creek running into a flat bottom, quitting (Friday utfc. 
 its banks, spreading right and left & losing itself on the Feby - contd ) 
 low ground. At length, after travelling 7 or 8 miles, we 
 got out of this low ground and reached Judge Montgomery's 
 where we got further directions, & proceeded by cross roads 
 over a roling country till we came upon the sandy barrens 
 which we crossed on our way to Princeton. We made 
 several enquiries at the settlements by which we passed, to 
 keep us on the right road, and always met with great civility 
 from the inhabitants. All these settlements are of one 
 description ; small frame or log houses with small out 
 buildings of the same sort, irregularly built ; a few acres of the 
 forest cleared around them; irregular fences inclosing the 
 fields, and a general appearance of careless habits, discomfort 
 & poverty. Most of the people appear thin & pale, and where 
 settled on the flat grounds, subject to cold fever & ague. — Ten 
 or twelve miles further on we came into the Princeton road 
 north of the Bridge over Black Creek. We found the road 
 very muddy & bad. It is ten miles from this creek to 
 Harmony where we arrived a little after 7 o'clock in the 
 evening. The delay in getting across the river, the badness 
 of the roads, and our having to turn off frequently to 
 different settlements to enquire our way, made this day's 
 ride long & fatiguing — Our horses were very tired. It is 
 necessary [*] when one stops to ask the way, to remain 
 a few minutes after receiving directions, to converse with 
 the people & in return for their information give them some 
 of the news of the day and say where you are from, & where 
 going. The curiosity of the people seems very natural, & it 
 is very proper to do one's best to gratify it, when it is 
 considered that they live scattered over an extensive country, 
 having but little society & rarely meeting strangers. On our 
 
Fcby. 
 
 288 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 arrival we found that M r . F. Rapp had returned home 
 the day after our departure. He had been in Pittsburg with 
 M r . Owen who had a public meeting there on the 22 nd . It 
 was very fully attended, but he did not hear the result of 
 it, as he was obliged to leave the place soon after it 
 opened. — We had taken about 20 of the Notices, all which we 
 gave away to different persons in the course of our Journey. 
 From Friday 11 th This week w r e spent in looking about us, talking with the 
 
 tc* Friday 18 th . people of the country who came in, and associating a little 
 with the Harmonites. Among the enquirers were, M r . Server 
 a farmer from Springfield, M r . Rankin a farmer on the 
 Evansville road, M r . Gamble, M r . W m . Downey joiner by 
 trade, 12 miles on the Cynthiana road, & M r . Tho s . Anderson, 
 tailor, 6 miles on the same road. — We bought a horse for 
 60 dollars of a M r . Stallion. M r . Fred. Rapp was com- 
 missioned [*] by M r . Owen to rent out the outlying fields 
 for the present year as probably he would not have people 
 to attend to the whole of the farm this season. Thursday 
 17 th was kept by the Harmonites in commemoration of their 
 Union on the 15 th of Feby 1805, 20 years, & nearly 1 1 years 
 here. At daybreak the band played on the square ; at 9 
 o'clock they went to church; at a little after 12 they dined 
 together in a large room over the church; at 3 o'clock 
 they had Divine service again ; at 6 o'clock they supped 
 together, after which they had service till past 9 o'clock. [A 
 M r . Marshall & his daughter called on their way from Shaw- 
 neetown to Vincennes] No strangers were admitted. [While 
 they were engaged in their festival I kept the Tavern.] When 
 they came from the afternoon service they proceeded in two 
 bodies, men & women, headed by their band of music having 
 their psalm books in their hands, playing & singing to the front 
 of M r . Rapp's house where they remained a few minutes & 
 then dispersed to their several homes till supper time. — 
 
 M r . Rapp gave us a ground plan of Harmony copied 
 from M r . Pickering's by the young man who assisted him. 
 M r . John Ayres a miller called with a recommendation 
 from M r . Hall as a miller. W T e engaged to write to him 
 on the subject. — M r . W m . Orange came over from Albion. — 
 M r . Rapp spoke to us about recommending a Post Master in 
 place of D r . Smith. We were of opinion that M r . Schnee 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 289 
 
 should be recommended in the mean time. The security 
 
 is two persons, each in 1000$; the benefit is 50 p. c on 
 
 Papers, [*] 30 p. c on letters, & letters not weighing above 
 
 1/2 an ounce free. — The weather was very clear & temperate 
 
 all this week. Wednesday evening there was some heavy 
 
 rain. — The glass in the mornings ranged from 30 to 
 
 above 40 & in the day it was generally a very agreeable 
 
 temperature. Everybody was saying that the weather was 
 
 too warm for this season, and that no one remembered 
 
 so fine a winter as the present one. — Our time was passed Febx & March 
 
 from Feby till April, getting information at Harmonte, & Apnl 
 
 conversing with the neighbours, and sometimes pruning 
 
 trees. D r . Miller was printing a small pamphlet for M r . Rapp 
 
 relative to the Harmonite system. As it was a translation 
 
 from the German, we assisted him in correcting both the 
 
 language & the press. — The Harmonie Steamboat called 
 
 the W m . Penn, came up the Wabash, & the Ploughboy, 
 
 and took several of the Harmonians away, & much of their 
 
 baggage & stores. It was an interesting sight to see them 
 
 taking leave of one another. Miss Wright & her sister 
 
 came here for a day on their way down the river to join 
 
 La Fayette who is coming up the river in a steam boat in a 
 
 few weeks. They have lived 5 years with him. They visited 
 
 the English settlement, & Miss Ronalds went down the 
 
 river with them [*] to see New Orleans. — George Flower A P rii 
 
 came here and staid two or three days, to get information 
 
 relative to the farms & stock. M r . Rapp rented out several 
 
 of the outlving fields, as M r . Owen's delav in returning- 
 
 at this season of the year would put it out of the power 
 
 of the Society to farm the whole. The river rose slowly 
 
 and only partially overflowed the banks. The Spring has 
 
 been warm, but it has been called rather wet. 
 
 As M r . Rapp wished to transact some business at Sunday 3 r <* April 
 Vincennes & Shakertown, I rode to keep him company ; we 
 reached Vincennes by 1/2 past 7 this evening, having taken 
 the long ferry of two miles down the river. The distance 
 from hence to Vincennes is 52 or 53 miles. 
 
 I saw Mr. & Mrs. Hay, Judge Blackford, Major Hurst, 4 th Monday 
 Judge Porter, Mr. W m . Mcintosh, M*\ & M™. Elston, 
 Mr. Baddolet, D*\ M™. & Miss McName. As the court 
 
290 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 April 5' 
 Tuesday 
 
 th 
 
 6th Wednesday. 
 
 ;th Thursday 
 8* h Friday 
 9th Saturday 
 
 9* h April 
 
 Saturday 
 
 was sitting, 1 went in to see what was doing, & heard a 
 charge brought against some young men for gambling [*] 
 but it was not admitted in consequence of some informality. 
 In the afternoon we rode to Shakertown, 20 miles north 
 of Vincennes, about a mile from the left bank of the 
 Wabash, near Busseron creek, and on some rising ground 
 surrounded by a prairie. The place looks tolerably neat, but 
 it is said to be rather unhealthy, as a pond of water is close 
 to it. Several of the young men have been leaving this 
 society lately. It does not appear very active or regular in its 
 labour. It is not conducted either in a clever or enterprising 
 manner. The number is said to be under 200, & composed 
 for the most part of women & old men. They entertained 
 us very hospitably, & would not receive payment. The next 
 morning we walked through some of their houses, but did 
 not see their system of worship. — M r . Rapp had some 
 conversation relative to private affairs, after w r hich one 
 of the Brethren, George Miller wrote [sic] 8 miles with us to 
 two farms [*] belonging to the Harmonite Society, which 
 they had taken for debts, & on which two families which had 
 lived with the Harmonies now reside. We remained there 
 about an hour, & after parting with our Shaker friend, we 
 rode through the woods & some muddy roads to Vincennes, 
 where we arrived between 7 and 8 o'clock at night. 
 
 I called and saw M r . Rogers who keeps the Globe 
 tavern, he gave me certificates of his character, & said he was 
 ready to join M r . Owen at a day's notice. I likewise called with 
 M r . Mcintosh on a M r . Baker who wishes to join. — In the 
 evening there was a ball at M rs . Jones, where about 15 couple 
 danced. I met M rs . Clarke & her sister M rs . Armstrong, 
 M rs . Tibbs her cousin remained in New Albany. 
 
 We rode to Princeton 
 
 We returned to Harmony. 
 
 M r . Schnee and his family, his son-in-law M r . Todd 
 and family, M r . Gaston & family [*] and M r . Haleman 
 and family, had come to live in Harmony while we were 
 absent. I was busy through the day arranging with them 
 in their houses, and for cutting bark. — This evening one 
 male & 3 female shakers arrived in a spring waggon. — On 
 my return from my journey I found an order which I have 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 291 
 
 Monday n tb . 
 April 
 
 preserved, from the Sergeant of the Militia Company of this 
 district, ordering attendance at Muster at Springfield. — 
 
 This day I wrote some Articles of Association, and Sunday ioth 
 shewed them to M r . Schnee. In the afternoon I walked with Apnl 
 him M r . Todd & a neighbour through the Orchard. The 
 weather has been dry, fine & warm for some days and the ther- 
 mometer ranging in the shade from jo° to 8o° [M r . Clarke 
 of Illinois brought a letter from M r . Owen dated 27 th Feby.] 
 
 This morning W m Owen was in the store taking an In- 
 ventory. I fixed for M r . Haleman, M r . Gaston, M r . Schnee's 
 son & some hands for barking. I also attended at the Dye 
 house and saw the articles to be left by the Dyer. M r . Schnee 
 went & received over the Cut off Mill & Island. I got 
 bier for the party barking in the woods. — After dinner 
 I went out [*] to the farm with Mr. Rapp to see their method (Monday 11* 
 of planting corn.— Four boys or lads carried poles with ApriI continucd ) 
 small flags which they placed four & 1/2 feet apart then 
 followed four ploughs forming furrows in the direction 
 these marks. These furrows crossed other furrows which 
 had been made the day before. Thus squares of 4 1/2 feet 
 were formed by the crossing of the furrows. A female 
 with a small basket on her arm, full of corn grains, walked 
 a long each furrow dropping 4 or 5 grains in a square at 
 each crossing furrow. Behind her came another with a hoe 
 to cover them over. Two girls went before with pumkin 
 seeds of which they dropped 2 or 3 grains at every third 
 crossing. Fred. Rapp, took off his coat & walked along with 
 them, sometimes conversing — sometimes dropping corn. I 
 took off my coat, got a basket and went in my own furrow. 
 We sometimes worked fast & when a few furrows in 
 advance assisted our neighbours. At four o'clock we sat 
 down under a shady tree, had some bread, butter, cheese, 
 apples & beer, and a song in chorus, and continued work 
 till near sun set. This method makes the business of corn 
 planting really a party of pleasure, and is a very expeditious 
 process. — American females have great aversion to working 
 out of doors. This prejudice must [*] arise from bad 
 management & over work at injudicious times ; for unless 
 with females in the family way or who have young children, 
 no system of business can be so well arranged or prove of 
 
292 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 more advantage for health, good spirits & improvement than 
 the one which contrives that both males & females should 
 have regular & moderate occupation & exercise at least twice 
 a day out of doors. Fresh air is good for the constitution & 
 enlivens the spirits ; while sitting continually in doors, or 
 working in confined space & air, is of no benefit either to 
 mind or body. It is indeed both debilitating & graceless ; and 
 all who wish to become delightful companions to their 
 neighbours, will choose to have a fair proportion of employ- 
 ment in one another's company out of doors. 
 
 Mr. Owen arrived on the 13th ins*, with M r . Roe & 
 M r . Watson, members of the New Jerusalem Church and 
 deputies from a society in Cincinnati which is forming for 
 the purpose of establishing a community, a M r . Bourne from 
 Baltimore who had been undersecretary to the Embassy at 
 Paris, and a german gentleman who brought an introduction 
 [*] to M r . Rapp. The sister of the latter is married to the 
 Wurtemburg minister at Washington. This traveller was 
 in the Wurtemburg army, went to the grecian war, & at 
 length came to wander in the Woods of Western America. 
 M r . Owen saw several neighbours who engaged to join. He 
 stated that many were coming from the East. A meeting 
 was appointed for Wednesday the 20 th ., ins*, in the Harmony 
 New Church, and w r e sent notices to the English settlements 
 at Albion, & Wanbro; to Shawneetown, & Carmi, in 
 Illinois, and to Springfield, Mount Vernon, Cynthiana, 
 Evansville, Princeton, and Vincennes in this State. 
 At the meeting on the 20 th . from 600 to 800 persons 
 assembled, and M r . Owen occupied between two & three 
 hours after midday delivering his discourse. A Com- 
 mittee was nominated to commence on the following 
 Monday 25 th . ins*. The Cincinnati gentlemen left us on 
 the 17 th . to return home. — 
 
 Sunday 24th. April. 
 Some families arrived from Cincinnati. Among the num- 
 ber [*] were M r . Jennings, Laurence, & Kellogg. These 
 gentlemen were put on the Committee. M r . Jennings had 
 refused a good living & church from the Universalists, in 
 order to establish himself in a Community on the New 
 System. M r . Laurence had a good business as blacksmith. 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 293 
 
 Thev reported that numerous other families were coming - . In 
 the course of the week the Committee made many arrange- 
 ments. A Constitution for the Preliminary Society was 
 made out, & I rode over to Evansville & got it printed. On 
 the way I had to swim my horse over a creek & cross 
 in a canoe. The Harmonian steam boat got aground 
 off Shawneetown which delayed the departure of the 
 Harmonians. While at Kvansville I saw one boat load 
 pass up. Finally the William Penn reached Harmonie on 
 the morning of the 5 th . May. By two o'clock every thing 
 being on board, the remainder of the Harmonians assembled 
 at M r Rapp's house, the females sang some farewell [*] (Thursday 5 th . 
 hymns & the band played several tunes in front of the Ma ^ l82 5) 
 house. All the families that had come into town as 
 M r . Owen's settlers had collected round. About 3 o'clock 
 the Party proceeded towards the river side singing & playing 
 music. At the end of the town they stopped, turned round & 
 sung a farewell hymn and blessing to the Settlement, and 
 afterwards continued on to the boat. Before embarking 
 M r . Owen caught the opportunity to express aloud his great 
 sense of their integrity, strict justice & kindness, and said 
 that in all the course of his experience he had never met 
 with so honest and affectionate [*] a body of people. He 
 was so much affected during his address that he could 
 sometimes hardly speak. The whole scene was truly 
 interesting and appeared to make great impression upon the 
 persons assembled. All the men & women shook hands with 
 the company around, & then w r ent on board. A gun was fired & 
 the steam boat got under way. As she went down the 
 stream both parties continued for some time waving hats & 
 handkerchiefs, while the band played a march. I never in 
 my life returned home after parting with friends, with so 
 sad a feeling as that (to me) melancholy afternoon. 
 
 [M r . Jennings & M r . Laurence & M r . Upjohn took a 
 passage on board the boat for the purpose of bringing back 
 with them their friends from Cincinnati. — ] [*] While I 
 was away at Evansville the two Miss Wrights & Miss Ronalds 
 arrived from New Orleans. They had parted from General 
 La Fayette who had gone to St. Louis, & were to meet him 
 again at Louisville about the middle of the month. — Several 
 
294 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 other gentlemen & families were daily joining from the 
 neighbourhood and from the East. Five young men arrived 
 from Washington City. The committee were constantly 
 occupied taking down the names and particulars relative to 
 applicants, arranging the duties of the town &c. 
 
 Friday 6 th . May M r . Owen accompanied by his son & 
 M r . Rogers proceeded to Vincennes by the [*] way of 
 Princeton for the purpose of declaring his intention of 
 becoming a Citizen. — The Miss Wrights set out with 
 Miss Ronalds to Albion on their way to Louisville. 
 
 On Sunday the I st . May M r . Owen had his first meeting 
 in the Frame Church of the New Inhabitants & gave them a 
 short discourse. In the afternoon M r . Jennings was requested 
 to preach to them. — On the Evening of Wednesday 3 rd May 
 there was a business meeting of the Society, to arrange 
 the hours of meals & work & to give several explanations. — 
 Saturday May 7th f*] 1 
 Sunday 5* h . June [Mr> B irkbeck who had been staying a few days at 
 
 Harmony was drowned attempting to swim on horseback 
 over the Fox creek on his way home to Wanbro on Friday 
 afternoon. One of his sons who was with him endeavoured 
 in vain to save his life. His body was buried in the New 
 burying ground at Harmony. A great portion of the 
 population accompanied the funeral. From marks on the 
 face & forehead, it is concluded that the horse must have 
 struck him. — While he was at Harmony M r . Owen had 
 contrived to bring all the various disputes between M r . Birk- 
 beck & M r . Flower & the inhabitants of the two settlements 
 to an amicable ajustment.] 
 
 Immediately after dinner M r . Owen went into the Hall 
 where a great number of the Harmonians were assembled, 
 and took leave of them by shaking hands with every 
 one. Many of the women were affected to tears. We 
 then mounted our horses and set out about 2 o'clock for 
 Mount Vernon, accompanied by D r . M^Namee M r . Schnee, 
 W'm. Owen, and M rs . Smith & her daughter, Mr. Smith & 
 M r . Williams, the three latter being on their return to 
 Cincinnati to settle their affairs. We rode by the proposed 
 site of a New town which is to be commenced on M r . Owen's 
 
 J The first book of Macdonald's Diary ends here. — Ers. 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 295 
 
 return. It is near the Springfield road, 3 miles from 
 Harmony. Choice has been made of this spot, because it 
 is a flat space of from 400 to 500 yards square with the 
 ground falling away on every side. It is a convenient 
 distance from Harmony, and has excellent timber standing 
 on it, which will [*] be cut down in the fall of the year. We 
 left D r . M c Namee to ride over the ground, & proceeded 
 on our road to M*. Vernon which place we reached before 
 dark. Springfield has been almost deserted since the Court 
 House has been removed & M r . Schnee joined the New 
 System. We slept at Squire Wilburn's. 
 
 [We found a Mr. Tyler with a (MS blank) at Mt. Ver- 
 non, He started for Harmony next day, when W m . Owen 
 & M r . Schnee returned.] 
 
 This forenoon while waiting for a steam boat, M r . Owen Monday 6th. 
 was requested to give an explanation of his system to the J une 
 inhabitants. Having acceded to their request they assembled 
 to the number of 40 or 50 persons, and he explained in about 
 half an hour his Principles of Human Nature & the Practice 
 he was commencing at New Harmony. The meeting broke 
 up without any questions or remarks being made to 
 him. About 5 o'clock in the afternoon the Pioneer the 
 best built & fastest boat on the river appeared in sight; [*] 
 We immediately got our baggage into a flat boat and rowed 
 out into the middle of the river & were soon safe on board. 
 Our rate of going was about 7 miles an hour. 
 
 The banks of the river appeared very beautiful, & much Tuesday 7th. 
 improved to my eye since my winter voyage, by the full 
 foliage on the trees. In the evening M r . Owen by 
 request, stated the general principles of his system to the 
 passengers assembled in the Cabin ; they retired to rest all 
 occupied with the question whether or not Man be a Machine. 
 
 About 1/2 past 6 this morning we reached Shippingport Wednesday &K 
 about 270 miles from M*. Vernon, & came up to Louisville. 
 M r Owen called upon M r Isaak Thorn, M r Stewart 
 M r Breden, & M r Sabine. M r . Walter had we understood 
 gone down to visit Harmony. We saw M r . Williams & 
 M rs . Smith off for Cincinnati by the Velocipede, [*] but 
 M r . Owen remained to give a discourse in the evening & went 
 to dine with M r . Thorn. M r . Wilman was occupied purchasing 
 
296 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Thursday 9 th - 
 
 Friday 10*. 
 
 (Friday io th . 
 June cont d ) 
 
 Saturday n 
 
 tli 
 
 Sunday 12*. 
 Monday 13 th . 
 Tuesday 14 th . 
 
 goods for Harmony. The room chosen for the meeting was 
 not very large ; it was filled and many went away who could 
 not get in. M r . Owen stated & argued his general Principles. 
 No reply was made. The meeting lasted 1 1/2 hour. Con- 
 siderable impression seemed to have been made. 
 
 We breakfasted at Shipping port with a french gentleman 
 a rich merchant, who had been much interested with the Sys- 
 tem, and embarked in the course of the forenoon on board the 
 General Pike steam boat laying off Louisville & bound to 
 Cincinnati. It started a little after 2 o'clock & reached its 
 destination, 150 miles about 1/2 past 11 the next morning. 
 
 When we landed at Cincinnati we put up at the City 
 hotel, called at M r . Smith's and several other families. — At 
 M r . Clarke & [*] Green's store we found that M r . Owen's 
 Essays, his discourses at Washington City, his discourse at 
 Harmony, the Rules & regulations for a Community, the 
 Constitution of the New Harmony Society, & his son's 
 Outline of the System of Education at New Lanark, had 
 been printed & for sale there. M r . Owen purchased a 
 complete assortment of printing materials to be sent to 
 Harmony that a Paper may be immediately commenced. 
 M r . Owen had a large meeting at the Court House in the 
 Evening. I saw M r . Williams' school; he told me that he 
 found every thing wrong in it since his return from Har- 
 mony. This day was extremely warm. Ther. in the shade 94 . 
 
 M r . Owen saw and conversed with a great number of 
 people. We walked much through the town. The houses 
 are fine brick buildings, the streets wide & regular. The 
 situation of this city is beautiful surrounded by fine hills 
 covered with wood. It is encreasing in size very rapidly. A 
 great number of its inhabitants are desirous of [*] forming 
 communities. Some land has already been purchased for 
 that purpose about 60 or 70 miles in the interior, & a society 
 is at present forming to remove there. The Eliza steam 
 boat arrived this morning, and took us on board between 
 2 & 3 o'clock & started up the river. Several gentlemen & 
 ladies on summer excursions were on board. The river 
 was very low. 
 
 We passed Sunday, Monday & part of Tuesday on 
 board, but the water being too shallow to proceed beyond 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 297 
 
 Marietta, we landed there in the afternoon. At night 
 M r . Owen according to request met between 100 & 200 of 
 the population in the Court house & explained his Principles. 
 All appeared interested & many expressed a wish to join 
 him. [I received two letters from a Thurso gentleman to 
 be delivered to his friends.] 
 
 Early this morning we walked a mile to the extremity Wednesday 15^. 
 of the town to view an old encampment of Indians ; it was 
 the remains of mounds built in the form of a square. [*] The 
 situation of Marietta is not very handsome or healthy. The 
 water is bad & the land inferior. After breakfast we 
 proceeded in a common country w r agon about 35 miles along 
 the Ohio bank of the Ohio river 
 
 We proceeded this day 32 miles & crossed to the left bank Thursday 16th. 
 of the river. The road was a common country road along the 
 bank of the river. Very beautiful hills rose on both sides of 
 the river the whole way. The banks are well people [d], & 
 improvements appeared to be rapidly advancing. 
 
 We reached Wheeling 15 miles, between 10 & 11 this Friday 17th. 
 day. The Ohio & Courier steam boats also arrived, which 
 proved that the Eliza could have got up if the Captain & 
 Pilot had acted correctly. A considerable bustle is always 
 going on in this place, as a place at which goods are shipped 
 to go down the river or landed to go East. We hired a 
 stage, and leaving [*] M r . Wilman to set out the next 
 morning for Philadelphia by the regular Baltimore stage, we 
 proceeded to Washington 32 miles. 
 
 We left this place about 7 o'clock & reached Pittsburg, 24 Saturday i8* b . 
 miles, between 3 & 4 o'clock. We drank tea at M r . Bakewells 
 & saw several gentlemen very friendly to M r . Owen's system. 
 
 We set out at 5 o'clock this morning for Economy Sunday 19^. 
 between 17 & 18 miles on the right bank of the Ohio on the 
 road to Beaver. We were received with great joy and 
 kindness by the Harmonians, who are as busy as bees 
 building a new town. We dined with them, & returned at 
 night to Pittsburg & met at night at M r . Belnappe's house 
 about 12 friends of M r . Owen's system and heard the 
 constitution of a society which they are forming read. 
 Several very intelligent [*] men wish to form a com- 
 munity near Pittsburg. 
 
 ( Sunday 
 cont d ) 
 
 19 
 
 ft 
 
298 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Monday ao* After breakfast we called on M r . Bakewell, and D^s. Swift 
 
 & Herron, two presbiterian ministers, who expressed a wish 
 to have M r . Owen's system proved in practice. M r . Bakewell 
 shewed me through his glass manufactory, where they make 
 very excellent work. I wrote a letter to the Committee. 
 M r . Owen paid several visits and took our places in the 
 Erie stage to start tomorrow morning at 3 o'clock. The 
 ther r . stood yesterday at Economy at 94 . 
 
 Tuesday 21st. At 2 o'clock this morning we started in the Stage for 
 
 Erie. We had 10 passengers. The day was extremely 
 warm, the country hilly, & the road in many places full of 
 deep ruts. A great part of the day we only made 3 miles [*] 
 an hour. We passed through a small town called Butler & 
 reached Mercer, distant 63 miles, at 1/2 past 10 at night. The 
 country is generally covered with fine oak forests, but in 
 some places these woods have been cleared away to a con- 
 siderable extent leaving only a few scattered trees & the oak 
 underwood. It is conjectured that this destruction of the 
 timber might have been made by the Indians. We passed 
 a good many settlements. Mercer stands on a hill. The 
 hotel is a tolerable one. As we were only there at night 
 we could not see much of the place, but it seemed to be 
 encreasing tolerably fast. On the road at one of the places 
 where we changed horses, we met M r . Wallace of Meadville, 
 returning home with his family. He invited [*] M r . Owen 
 to stop at Meadville. At the Inn in Mercer we met a 
 M r . Hurdy cooper of Meadville who likewise invited us 
 to stop there. 
 
 Wednesday 22"d. We left Mercer at 2 o'clock & reached Meadville at 
 
 10 o'clock distant 34 miles. We had the same sort of 
 country to travel through, though the road was better than 
 yesterday. We crossed a marshy valley through which runs 
 a small stream from a lake which is intended to supply 
 water for the projected canal from Erie to Pittsburg. 
 
 Meadville stands in a spacious valley surrounded by 
 hills covered with wood. A creek called French creek passes 
 by the town & runs to the Alleghany river. There is another 
 small creek which in rainy weather often floods the town. 
 There are above 900 inhabitants. They have united & built 
 a church, in which at different hours all the [*] various 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 299 
 
 sects attend worship, — Catholics, Episcopalians, Presbiters, 
 Methodists & covenanters. This is a peculiar instance of 
 liberality on such subjects. M r . Hurdy cooper returned 
 home about 4 o'clock, & M r . Wallace about 6 o'clock. We 
 called at M r . Hurdycooper's, before his return & saw 
 D r . Blossom & a Miss Colquhoun. In the evening we 
 had a long conversation in front of M r . Gibson's Tavern 
 with M r . Hurdycooper, Reynolds, Morrison, Cullen. — On the 
 north side of the Town a College is building of brick, for the 
 education of all the children in the place. The town bears an 
 appearance of neatness which reminds one of the Old Coun- 
 try. About 4 miles out a party of Topographical Engineers 
 are encamped, who are employed levelling & measuring the line 
 of the proposed canal. M r . Hurdycooper offered to [*] ride (Wednesday 22M 
 out with me tomorrow to visit them. — Within the last two cont<*) 
 years this has become a favorite travelling rout. — 
 
 At breakfast we met a son of M r . [MS blank] the Thursday 23rd. 
 councillor in Pittsburg, and walked with him to call on June 
 M r . Wallace. A meeting was proposed to be held in the 
 Church at 11 o'clock, & M r . Wallace undertook to give 
 notice. It was attended by the principal persons of the 
 place, & lasted two hours. M r . Owen explained his 
 principles & shewed his plans. We afterwards were shewn 
 the public library & introduced to the clergyman & librarian. 
 We dined at M r . Hurdycooper's and in the evening went 
 to M r . Wallace's. M rs . Wallace is a very intelligent person ; 
 Miss Wallace an interesting young lady. 
 
 Between 9 & 10 o'clock this morning the Stage arrived Friday 24th. 
 with Mr. & Mrs. Howell & Mr. Davis & daughter in it. We 
 took a friendly leave of our Meadville friends & set out for 
 Erie. The road lay through [*] fine woods. It was 
 tolerably good except in one place. Here it happened that 
 as General La Fayette was travelling lately on his northern 
 route, he told the Driver that he would give a dollar to drive 
 him safely over the bad bit of road, which the driver did & 
 received the dollar reward. His brother whips when they 
 heard of this were so incensed at the meanness of the driver 
 in accepting such a paltry sum, that they abused him every 
 where. This driver happened to be a german, and their 
 remarks on his conduct were still more goading as they said 
 
300 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Saturday 25 lh . 
 
 Sunday 26 th . 
 
 Monday 27 th . 
 
 (Monday 27^. 
 cont d ) 
 
 that no American would have done so. We ascended several 
 high ridges of land and at length had a view of Lake Erie. 
 The scenery is by no means beautiful. We reached the town 
 of Erie about 1/2 past 6 o'clock. It is a small poor place 
 on the shore of the lake. Since the war little has been doing 
 here. The country round is flat. To the west of [*] the 
 town a neck of land stretches out, & bending round runs 
 ill front of the town forming a large bay which is secured 
 by two wooden & stone peirs. The vessels of war employed 
 by the Americans have been sunk near to this. As the 
 steam boat which runs between Buffalo & Detroit was 
 not expected for two days, it was determined by our party 
 to take the Stage to Buffalo. 
 
 We left Erie about 4 o'clock in the morning & travelled 
 through a flat woody country which is fast settling, at no 
 great distance from the Lake though we could not see it. We 
 reached Fredonia early in the day. This is a small town 
 advancing rapidly in size. It is three miles from the lake. 
 
 We again set out about 5 o'clock, and at the end of the 
 ] st . stage came onto the shore of the lake. The road 
 continued the rest of the way along its margin either on a 
 flat sandy [*] shore or through the woods near the edge 
 of a rocky shore. In some places it was very bad. — At 
 Fredonia we changed our Stage for a Covered waggon 
 in which we were very much jolted. We reached Buffalo 
 between 5 & 6 o'clock. 
 
 Buffalo stands about 3 miles from the Niagara river. The 
 new Canal from Albany passes the town & joins Buffalo 
 Creek which enters lake Erie at the South end of the 
 town. This town has greatly encreased since the war, and 
 is at present rapidly improving. The surrounding scenery 
 
 is however tame & uninteresting. 
 
 At six o'clock this morning we set out in a Stage for 
 Black rock, 3 miles off, the place to cross the river into 
 Canada. The river is 2/3 ds of a mile wide & very rapid. 
 Black rock like Buffalo is on the increase and in full 
 activity, while on the [*] contrary on the Canadian side, 
 there were only a few scattered houses, and a melancholy 
 stilness & inactivity. The land on both sides of the river 
 is quite flat. Grand island appears from the river side 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 301 
 
 quite flat & covered with thick timber. From Black rock 
 to M 1 *. Forsyth's hotel just over the falls the distance is 18 
 miles. His house is built on a sloping bank rising gradually 
 from the Falls. The land around is tolerably farmed. Im- 
 mediately on the river bank a few tall trees & underwood 
 are left & walks cut. The fall seems to have been occasioned 
 by the sinking of the bed of the river, thus leaving a rocky 
 edge for the whole stream to drop over into a lower channel 
 which continues a rapid in a deep narrow channel for 7 
 miles, between high banks, [height of falls 160 ft. height of 
 banks 206 depth of channel below the falls 170] Just 
 at [*] the falls there are two islands dividing them into 
 three. On the Canadian side, at the edge of the perpendicular 
 rock a few hundred feet from the Great fall a wooden 
 circular shaft staircase has been made. By descending this 
 a visitor may pass close under the face of the rock and 
 behold the river tumbling over his head; but he cannot do 
 this without being wet to the skin. In the afternoon the sun 
 shone out and we beheld a complete & beautiful rainbow 
 formed in the clouds of spray which shot up several hundred 
 feet over our heads & spread in every direction. 
 
 In the afternoon we proceeded about 8 miles down the 
 bank of the river & crossed over to a small town where we 
 passed [*] the night. The next morning we drove up to the 
 inn on the East side of the Falls & after breakfasting, & visit- 
 ing the falls we proceeded to Lockport, so called from the 
 number of locks there constructed on the canal. [On our 
 way to Lockport we passed through an Indian village. As 
 the missionaries have gotten among these people, they are 
 much altered from the genuine Indian character.] At seven 
 o'clock in the evening we went on board the canal boat. It 
 was comfortably arranged though crowded, & travelled 
 at from 3 to 4 miles an hour. The banks are rapidly 
 clearing & Settling. We changed boats at Rochelle a rapidly 
 encreasing town, situated on the Genesee river, where there 
 are picturesque falls, & a great power of water for machinery 
 of which the inhabitants are daily taking more & more 
 advantage. We reached Schenectady Saturday evening [*] (Saturday 2**. 
 the 2 n <* July. As there are from this place to the Hudson J ul y) 
 river several locks to pass which render travelling by the 
 
302 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 canal tedious, we landed, slept there & early in the morning 
 went in the Stage to Albany which place we reached at 8 
 o'clock just in time for the steam boat in which we took our 
 passage to New York. On board we met M r . Fetherstone- 
 haugh with whom we had some conversation. We arrived 
 
 4 th . July early on Monday morning the Celebrated Anniversary. We 
 
 called at nine at the Mansionhouse hotel & saw La Fayette 
 
 (Monday 4 th a complete picture of a French Marquis. [*] He shook us 
 
 July contd) } )V th e hand & said it was 'no day for thinking or talk- 
 
 ing, — only for acting.' A grand volunteer parade took 
 place &c &c. M r . Owen finding all engrossed with the joys 
 of the day, went on to conclude his business at Philadelphia, 
 while I remained to call on our friends, &c. I delivered 
 letters sent me by M r . Kemmis, one to M r . Ensmith attorney 
 general at New York from M r . Burrows, & one to M r . Wilkes 
 cashier of New York bank from M r . Rush. Also one from 
 M r . Upjohn of Cincinnati to his daughter. I went on 
 
 7* h . July Thursday evening the 7 th . to M rs . Cole's with Jacob Harvey 
 
 where I met the Miss Wrights and several old acquaintances, 
 
 Friday 8* h . [*] and Friday morning I went to see the High school 
 
 opened this year under the direction of Professor Griscomb. 
 Here has been adopted a good deal of M r . Owen's method 
 of giving instruction. 
 
 M r . Owen returned this morning. He had passed the 
 last night at Joseph Bounaparte's, who had been most 
 anxious to make his acquaintance, & sent his carriage down 
 to the landing place on the banks of the Delaware to receive 
 him. M r . Owen was accompanied by M r . Say the naturalist. 
 They sat in side the carriage & Lucien & Murat's sons on the 
 box, one driving & the other opening the gates. [*] Murat's 
 son has property in Florida where he is going to settle. The 
 party were much interested and delighted with the New 
 Plans, & promised a visit to Harmony next year. La Fayette 
 has chosen the township, granted to him by Congress, in 
 Florida near the seat of government. At Four O'clock we 
 went on board a steamboat bound for Hartforth Connecticut 
 accompanied by M r . Home from Philadelphia, an English 
 man w r ho has made a large fortune in the business of 
 bleaching & preparing Cloth, & who is a great friend to 
 M r . Owen's plans. We passed along Long Island sound & up 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 303 
 
 the Connecticut river, & reached Hart forth about 1 1 o'clock 
 the next day [*] 
 
 9** 1 . Saturday. We had fallen in with Colonel & ISaturjday the 
 M rs . Woodbridge & family in the Canal boat. He is 9 th 
 IA Governor of the Michigan territory & was travelling with 
 his wife to leave her with her father Judge Trumbull. He 
 proceeded no farther than New York, as he was obliged to 
 hasten back to Detroit. — After having been at the Inn we 
 walked to the Judge's, and in the afternoon proceeded on to 
 Springfield further up the river. The country was well 
 cultivated and very beautiful. The towns of Hartforth 
 and Springfield are well built. At the latter there is a 
 large & well arranged Armoury. [*] The vale of the (Saturday gth. 
 Connecticut is celebrated for its beauty. J uIy contd ) 
 
 Early this morning we drove out in gigs with M r . Dwight I0th 
 3 miles to some rapids on the river, where a Boston Company 
 are erecting spinning & weaving mills. The Manufactories 
 are well built, and promise to be an excellent establishment. I 
 saw some very fine bricks made by a patent machine invented 
 by a Bostonian. The weather extremely hot. Ther r . above 90 . 
 The Unitarians have a handsome meeting house in this town. 
 
 At six o'clock this evening we parted from M r . Home & 
 proceeded one stage in the Boston stage, in company with 
 [MS blank] of the [*] Dover Manufactory 60 miles north 
 of Boston, and a Springfield gentleman who once offered 
 himself as candidate for the governorship. 
 
 The next day Monday we proceeded on to Boston. [The T ° th - J uf y 
 country hilly & not a fertile soil though in many places well 
 cultivated.] The day was intensely hot, & it was 11 o'clock 
 at night before we reached the Exchange Hotel in that 
 city, situated on a point of land nearly surrounded by 
 the waters of the Bay in which there are many Islands, 
 and long causeways. 
 
 Early this day M r . Owen delivered some letters. We called Tuesday 12* 
 on the Lord Mayor M*\ Quincy and [*] the Rev<*. [MS blank] J" 1 *" 
 who speaks highly of the System & begged to be a subscriber 
 to the Harmony newspaper. We then drove to M r . John 
 Adams, 7 miles out of town. We sat with the old gentleman 
 a couple of hours. The ther r . was at 98 . He said that he 
 would be 90 years old on the 20 th . Oct 1 ', next. He is 
 
304 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 (Tuesday 12 th . 
 cont d ) 
 
 Wednesday 13 th . 
 July 
 
 Thursday 14 th . 
 
 July 
 
 Friday 15 th . 
 
 Saturday i6* h . 
 
 July 
 
 short & square built, and must have been a very strong 
 minded man in his day; but the heat of the weather & his 
 great age combined to make him appear feeble. One of 
 his remarks was that there was not a body of citizens in 
 any country in Europe, not excepting England, which [*] 
 could be called a people. Scotland he considered the most 
 luminous spot on the Globe. He wished M r . Owen success. 
 [He asked us to stop dinner with his family, but said that 
 he never went down himself. The party consisted of a 
 lady who takes care of him, & a young lady I believe his 
 niece.] M r . Owen's man, Watson, had remarked in the 
 kitchen that he had seen all the Ex Presidents except 
 M r . Adams. While we were at dinner this was mentioned 
 to him, & he sent for W r atson, shook hands with him, made 
 him sit five minutes by his side, and told him his master 
 was a very smart man, and would be of great service to the 
 Human Race. [In America smart or intelligent is used for 
 clever, & a clever man means a kind fellow but a simpleton.] 
 On our return to the Hotel we found that the glass had for 
 two hours been at ioo° [*] a greater heat than had been 
 known for several years. Several persons were taken ill, and 
 in a few instances deaths were occasioned by drinking cold 
 water while hot. In the evening we went out to Waltham 
 where we slept & in the morning we walked through that 
 Factory which is extensive. The country round is well 
 cultivated. We passed a park & country house belonging to 
 Colonel Gore. On our return we took places in the stage, and 
 Drove to Bunker Hill which commands a fine view of the 
 town & surrounding bay and country. — At one oclock [*] we 
 left Boston in the Mail, & travelling all night reach Hartforth 
 the next morning between 7 & 8 o'clock. After breakfast we 
 went to the College & saw Bishop Brownell & one of the Pro- 
 fessors, with whom we had a very friendly conversation. At 
 eleven we went on board the Oliver Ellsworth steam boat, 
 where we again fell in with M r . Home, & reached New York 
 at 8 o'clock next morning. We called upon several friends, & 
 went in the evening to M r . Wilkes' at Freemont where we met 
 the Miss Wrights & the Flowers. They were much occupied 
 about their plans for slave emancipation. [*]The next morn- 
 ing we embarked on board the Canada Packet ship 540 tons, 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 305 
 
 capt n Rogers. — We were taken down in the steamboat which 
 leaves the end of the Battery walk at 10 o'clock and put on 
 board the packet lying too at the Quarantine ground off Staten 
 Island. The cabin passengers were 17, M r . Alvarado, a 
 Guatemala merchant, M r . Owen, M r . Vanderhurst ati 
 Englishman having property at S*. Helena 60 miles south of 
 Charleston, M r . Krumbhaar an American German, M r . Lav- 
 ater, a German whose mother is English M r . Faerbar a 
 German M r . Wester feldt a Swede, [*] M r . Brock a Glasgow 
 gentleman, M r . Higgins, M r . Hall, Scotch from South 
 Carolina, M r . Calder, Scotch, M r . Stansfeldt German 
 M r . Furst from Hamburgh. M r . Morrice, American from 
 South Carolina, M r . Osborne, English, & M r . Russel a 
 Yankee or New Englander from New York. 
 
 We parted from our pilot outside of Sandy Hook about 
 4 o'clock in the afternoon, and made sail with a clear 
 sky, smooth sea, & fine southerly wind. When we got into 
 the Gulf Stream we had rather close & hot weather with 
 thunder [*] and lightning but no boisterous winds. Our 
 course was East nearly by compass. 
 
 On Wednesday evening the 3 rd August between 5 & 6 1825 
 o'clock we came in sight of the Mizen Head and soon Wednesday j fd . 
 afterwards Cape Clear, not having had occasion during the Au s st 
 whole of our passage to take in a reef. Our occupation 
 during the voyage had consisted in reading Segur's Russian 
 Campaign, Madame de Genlis Memoirs of her early life, 
 O'Meara's Voice from S*. Helena, Bacon on the improvement 
 of Knowledge, John Bull in America, & some less important 
 works, miscellaneous conversation, and whist [*] chess & 
 backgammon. I frequently conversed in Spanish with 
 M r . Alvarado relative to the affairs of his country. The 
 Guatemala consul in New York, had, as he informed 
 me, translated M r . Owen's two Discourses delivered in 
 Congress, into Spanish, & he expressed a great desire to 
 have the System adopted in that Republic. 
 
 The next morning the weather became hazy & boisterous Thursday 4*. 
 with a head wind. We lay till the following morning beating 
 about at the mouth of the Irish channel, when we had a fine 
 westerly breeze which [*] brought us to the Pilot's post Friday 5*. 
 about 3 o'clock in the afternoon where we lay too under the 
 
306 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 north shore of Wales. No Pilot boats were in sight. A good 
 many sail were coming in. During the night it blew ex- 
 tremely hard from the S. West. 
 Saturday 6* h . About 9 o'clock a pilot boarded us. He informed us 
 
 Angt - that so many vessels were coming into port that the pilots 
 
 could not get out & in fast enough. We landed about 2 
 o'clock at Liverpool, & by an order from the custom house 
 got our baggage landed & passed after hours. I had written 
 by the [*] packet of the 8 th . ult°. to mention our intention 
 of crossing by that of the 16 th ., but we reached port within 
 two days of her arrival, making a shorter passage by 5 days. 
 
 Liverpool 
 7 th . August 1825. 
 
SECOND JOURNEY TO AMERICA, 1825-26 
 
 At two o'clock on the afternoon of the ist. Oct*., October i*t. 
 Mr. Owen, Mr. R. D. Owen, Mr. Whitwell (archi- t825 * 
 tect) and Mr. Smidt (a prussian) and myself sailed from 
 Liverpool in the Packet ship New York for New York. We 
 had 41 cabin Passengers on board, consisting of M r . Loyd 
 Rogers of Baltimore, Mr. George Barclay of New York, 
 Mr. Prince of D°., M r . Lowry of d ., M r . Charters of 
 d°., M r . Heyward of South Carolina, M r . Hamilton & Miss 
 Hamilton of New York, M r . Hayle a Lancashire woolen 
 manufacturer, Mr. Camac of Philadelphia, Mr. Tibbetts 
 of Schenectady, Mr. Lynch of New York, Mrs. Walker of 
 Quakeress of New York (who has travelled much among the 
 Indians & on Society business in Europe,) Mr. & Mrs. Down- 
 ing of New York, & Miss Penn accompanying her cousin 
 M r . Camac, and Mr. Garcia & family and [*] a company 
 of Performers from the Italian opera. — [Captain Bennett 
 Captain of the New York.] The weather was stormy for 
 the first 10 days, that together with our large number 
 rendered matters rather uncomfortable. Fine weather fol- 
 lowed and we gradually got into order. M r . Owen had 
 discussions with several of the Passengers relative to the 
 System. We had a little music occasionally from M r . Lynch 
 or the opera singers. Miss Garcia has a fine voice & performs 
 well. M r . Garcia was composing music almost the whole of 
 the voyage. This was occasionally rehearsed in a low 
 tone. A few Gazettes were published. M r . Whitwell & 
 myself were the Editors. We called the ship Ebor Nova, 
 (Ebor being the Latin name for York in England) and the 
 Gazette the Sextant. Much good humour prevailed and [*] 
 a variety of amusing quizzes published. — An ode was 
 likewise published, and set to music by M r . Garcia. — On 
 our reaching the Bay of New York, it was sung on the deck- 
 in full chorus. — [A lottery was drawn the prize being for 
 the holder of the ticket naming the hour of the ship passing 
 the line between Forts Diamond & Richmond in the Bay. It 
 was won by M r . Lowry.] We reached Sandy Hook about 
 2 o'clock on Sunday morning the 6 th . Nov r . — 
 
 (307) 
 
308 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Sunday 6 th . 
 Nov 1 ". 
 
 Monday 7 th . 
 Nov r . 
 
 Monday 7th. 
 (cont d ) 
 
 Tuesday 8th. 
 
 Wednesday Qt h . 
 Nov r . 
 
 The day was very calm and rather thick. In the evening 
 a steam boat took us on board and landed us on the Battery. 
 Our Party got in comfortable appartments in the City Hotel. 
 
 The City was full of strangers. On Friday last, a superb 
 procession of boats had gone down the bay in honor of the 
 opening of the canal communicating the waters of the Lakes 
 with the Hudson, and a Ball to be given by the City was 
 fixed for tomorrow. [*] 
 
 This morning M r . Hulme and D r . Price called with two 
 Harmony Gazettes & letters, all very satisfactory, the health 
 of the Place having been remarkably good all the summer. 
 D r . Price introduced two Quakers, one a M r . Gauce from 
 Wilmington, the other M r . Trueman of this city, & a 
 M r . Johnson, all friends to the Plan. We learnt that 
 societies were forming in Philadelphia for the purpose of 
 establishing communities. We got orders at the custom 
 house for our baggage, gave a letter which M r . Owen wrote 
 at sea, for publication in the New York Papers. In the 
 evening we got our personal baggage landed with only the 
 form of unlocking our trunks — Four tickets of invitation 
 had been sent to us for the Ball. At 10 we went there, spoke 
 to the governor, his lady, Capt n Rogers & his family of the 
 Canada, Mr. & [*] M". Thomas, Mr. Hulme's daughter 
 and the two M r . Shanks. The room was hung with 
 leaves, & full of mixed assemblage. 
 
 M r . Owen went with M r . Johnson & M r . Gauce to 
 Elias Hicks' (25 miles off in Long Island). [At ten we 
 sent off our English letters. I wrote to William, my 
 uncle & my Aunt Annie.] I called on the Governor, & left 
 M r . Rush's letter of introduction & two views of Lanark & 
 Proposed communities. I also called for M r . Owen & left a 
 letter for M r . John Hunter in Broadway. I called with Robert 
 on M r , & M rs . Thomas. After dinner we went to the play 
 with Dr. Price & Mrs. Warner (his sister), Mrs. Fisher (her 
 sister), Miss Cistairs the daughter of the lady at whose house 
 they board. These ladies propose going to Harmony. [*] 
 
 We left our cards for M r . Ludlow & the British consul. 
 We escorted M r . Garcia & family to see the City Hall. In 
 the saloon, the Governor De Witt Clinton was sitting; I 
 therefore introduced the Partv to him. He was extremely 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 309 
 
 polite. Afterwards we walked with them to the New High 
 School. The school was out, but I introduced the ladies to 
 Professor Griscomb. He gave Robert a small vol. which 
 he had lately published explanatory of his school system. 
 Another school is building in that neighbourhood for 
 females, this being exclusively for boys. It will hold 400 
 girls. After dinner we called on D r . Price's friends & 
 M l ". Hulme, who has been [*] staying here to visit his 
 daughter who arrived last evening from France by the 
 Havre packet. — Between 6 & 7 M r . Owen returned quite 
 pleased with his visit to Elias Hicks, who approves of his 
 views. There are two parties of Quakers, Unitarians and 
 Trinitarians. He is a supporter of the former & very 
 influential among them. At night we went to M r . Wilkes 
 in Hudson Square. [The W m . Burns (packet) came in, not 
 having left Liverpool for 12 days after us. She brought the 
 Model & a man & maid, & baggage.] 
 
 This morning Robert & myself wrote to Harmony. Thursday iot*». 
 M r . Aufrere son in law of M rs Lockhart called on me, his Novr - 
 address 49 Canal Street. M r . John Stevens (Col. and a 
 great man for Rail Roads) called & introduced himself as a 
 friend of M r . Hill cashier of Hoboken Bank, whom [*] we 
 met last year in the Albany steamboat, — He expressed a 
 great desire to converse with M r . Owen. M r . Owen went to 
 the Custom house to get his baggage landed & arrange about 
 sending it west by way of New Orleans. M r . Richardson 
 of Utica, a miliar whom we had met in the Clinton canal 
 boat, was with us. M r . Owen gave him a copy of the 
 Drawing of a community. A M r . Conn, an Engineer, 
 called. M r . Whit well went with him to see a new steam 
 Engine invented by him. He was much pleased both with 
 the Engineer & his apparatus. At one o'clock we called at 
 the City Hall & saw the Governor. He agreed to take the 
 chair at a public meeting next Wednesday to hear M r . Owen 
 explain his system. He observed [*] that the most superior Thursday 10 th 
 female of his acquaintance (Miss Wright) was a complete cont<*. 
 convert to the System. Thence we went to M r . Peel's 
 museum, which has lately been opened in Broadway. This 
 gentleman, I am told, has in Philadelphia the best collection 
 in the U. States. He took us into his sanctum sanctorum 
 
310 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 and shewed us his paintings. His name is Rembrandt. His 
 father is an old man. We were introduced to a M r . Stansbury 
 a clergyman. He was extremely friendly. We were likewise 
 introduced to two other gentlemen belonging to the museum. 
 I called on M™. George Barclay 42 Courtland St. & Mr. & 
 M rs . Clibborn 124 Greenwich St. Engaged to dine 
 Wednesday with I st & Thursday with 2 n <i. 
 
 At five o'clock we took a coach & called for M r . [*] Owen 
 at M r . Poste's, Franklin Bank Franklin Square. We sat 
 with the ladies a few minutes & proceeded to call on 
 M r . Wilkes ; drank tea at Jacob Harvey's ; went for a short 
 time again to the museum where we met D r . Hosack, and 
 thence to the Lunch Club of New York Litterati in Broad 
 Way, a short distance from Washington Hall Hotel. 
 Friday 11 th . At 6 o'clock M r . Owen, Robert, & Smith accompanied 
 
 Nov r . by D r . Price & his party, started in the Union line of steam 
 
 boats for Philadelphia. M r . Whitwell & myself got an order 
 from the custom house to land the Model. We went for 
 a short time to the Academy of Arts. The rooms are bad 
 and though there are a few good pictures, yet in general 
 the exhibition is very inferior. At 12 we called on the 
 governor [*] and fixed that M r . Owen should have a public 
 meeting in the City hotel on Friday the 18 th . at 1 1 o'clock. 
 We called on Miss Upjohn. The Eldest sister had gone to 
 Cincinnati to join her father; the rest propose going there 
 early in spring. We purchased a number of the Religious 
 Chronicle in which there was a letter from a clergyman who 
 had been at New Harmony, and found the school in bad 
 order and the farm & other establishments not well managed. 
 A M r . Page called. He is a singular man, & has had his 
 head turned by some fanciful speculation. He dresses in 
 an extraordinary green gown. He spoke of having made 
 some wonderful discovery relative to some thousand years 
 of the world's existence. He said he understood the magical 
 art, and had for some years been recommending communities 
 on M r . Owen's plan, in which he would establish theatrical 
 religion. He called himself "the Page of Nature; the 
 Page [*] of History; King David's Page, and Hisom 
 Hieroglyphicus. He had been that morning to mention the 
 subject to the governor who had fixed an interview at his 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 311 
 
 private house for the following morning at 8 o'clock. — We 
 allowed him to run out without interruption, and then he 
 took his leave requesting we would relate what he had told 
 us to M r . Owen. After his departure, I could not help 
 laughing at the idea of the governor connecting our views 
 with the insane fancies of this fanatic, and I half asked 
 myself whether I had entirely escaped the disaster of in- 
 sanity. — M r . Johnson who called with M r . Gauce, again 
 called. He spoke rather extravagantly of some improve- 
 ments he had made in the art of type founding, and about 
 his early career as an actor. [*] 
 
 As soon as he left us we walked out, and passed the evening Friday i i* h . 
 at La Fayette circus where we saw some good horsemanship. Novl - (contd. ) 
 
 At six this morning we started in the steam boat for Saturday 12th. 
 New Brunswick 45 miles up the Raritan river, thence about 
 30 miles in stages through Princeton & Trenton to the 
 banks of the Delaware where we embarked on board the 
 Trenton steam boat, a beautiful & very fast boat. We 
 proceeded 30 miles down the river to Philadelphia where 
 we arrived at 1/2 past 5, & found M r . Owen at the Mansion 
 house hotel. The fare was 2$. We breakfasted in one 
 boat & dined in the other, 1/2$ each. The road was very 
 rough from New Brunswick to the Delaware, but they drove 
 fast. There [*] is an opposition line, which is the cause of 
 the low fares. Owing to the dry weather, the road was 
 extremely dusty, and the river being low, we proceeding 
 6 or 8 miles below Trenton before we embarked. — The day 
 was beautifully clear, but there was a very cold wind. — [In 
 the steamboat I met M r . Osborne with whom I had crossed 
 the Atlantic in the Canada. He introduced me to M rs . Gray 
 wife of the B. consul at Norfolk Virginia. She had known 
 Major Cunningham of the Engineers in Bermuda.] In the 
 evening we saw M r . Say and M r . Haynes. The latter lives 
 at Germantown 7 miles out of Philadelphia. M r . Whitwell 
 remarked that the country from New Brunswick to Trenton 
 looked wild, that the driving of the coachman would alarm 
 our English whips, and that the country had a very wintry 
 appearance, owing to the brown cast of the ground & the 
 want of leaves on the trees. This is caused by the sharp 
 frosts in the nights. — 
 
312 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Sunday 13 th . 
 Nov. 
 
 Monday 14 
 
 Nov. 
 
 Tuesday I5* h . 
 
 Nov r . 
 
 Tuesday 15^. 
 Nov r . (cont d ) 
 
 [A letter arrived from M r . Lewis the Secretary of 
 N. Harmony to M r . Owen, he remarked that the school was the 
 best part of the Establishment &; that every thing would go 
 right on his return. The Place had been remarkably healthy.] 
 
 After breakfast D r . Rush called. I gave him a letter of 
 introduction from his brother. Also came in M r . Spackman 
 with Dr. Price & his brother [*] Eli Price, & Mr. Hulme's 
 2 nd son. M r . Owen went out to breakfast. M r . Whitwell 
 went out with M r . Spackman, & engaged to meet D r . Rush 
 after dinner to go & see the Water Works & Penitentiary. 
 [M r . Spackman agreed with me as to the necessity of 
 getting foremen for the several branches of business in 
 New Harmony.] M r . Owen was to go out with M r Haynes 
 to dine at Germantown, & come into to M r . Fieball's [Phi- 
 queball's] . I remained at home having a cold. In the evening 
 M r . Spackman called, & we had a long conversation about 
 advertising for various artificers to go to New Harmony. 
 
 Early this morning M r . Owen & D r . Price set off to 
 Wilmington with M r . Gause, to see the society formed 
 there. After breakfast M r . Spackman came in, & we drew 
 out the proposed advertisement which he engaged to have 
 inserted for one week in all the papers of this city. We called 
 on M r . Camac, & saw Miss Penn, M r . Smith & Capt n . Ricketts 
 who was in the Portuguese service but [*] retired, and is now 
 married to one of Camac's sisters. I called & left M r . Rush's 
 letter of introduction to M r . C. T. Anquisoll. We called 
 on Dr. Rush & Mr. Longstreath. We saw Mr. Price & 
 M r . M c lure in the house of the latter. In the evening we 
 went with young Camac & M r . Smith to see the Atheneum 
 & the Museum. The latter is a private collection, fitted for 
 a public show. Admittance 25$ [cents]. 
 
 After Breakfast I wrote to the Committee inclosing 
 the slip of the advertisement & afterwards went out with 
 M r . Spackman. I left my card for Mrs. Grey at Mrs. Sword's 
 boarding house in Walnut St. Called & saw the British 
 Consul Robertson, was introduced to M r . Chancey the lawyer 
 in the circuit court, left my card for M r . Vaughan at the 
 Atheneum, was introduced to D r . Meek, and went to 
 Tanner's shop [*] about some state maps. We walked 
 through the U. States bank, and went to the top of it. It 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 313 
 
 is a fine marble building. We likewise saw a new church 
 neatly built. After dinner M r . M c Lure & Say called. In 
 the evening we went for half an hour to M r . Spackman's & 
 afterwards to D r . Rush's, where I was introduced to a 
 Miss Roach an English lady who lives with her brother 
 at Bedford in Massachusets. He is a great advocate for 
 the New System. 
 
 At 6 o'clock we left Philadelphia by the New York Wednesday i6* b . 
 steamboat. We travelled in company of Reuben Haines of 
 Germantown & his wife, her sister, Miss Post, his mother, and 
 a young gentleman. The day was beautifully fine. [■*] We 
 reached New York at 1/2 past 5 in the evening. Kean had 
 come out at the theatre ; had met great opposition, but having 
 published a letter begging pardon, was getting up hill again. 
 The Italian opera had advertised for operas twice a week 
 for three months. We found extracts in the N. York papers 
 relative to M r . Owen's meeting in London. 
 
 After breakfast we busied ourselves about the baggage Thursday Nov*, 
 to be sent round to New Orleans, getting the model put I7t ■ 
 together, & sending copies of the I st . number of the Harmony 
 Gazette which had been reprinted here [*] send round to 
 the different Editors & Literary Societies. A M r . Haymer 
 a mathematical teacher called. He wishes to join at 
 Harmony. I called at the City Hall with M r . Owen on the 
 Governor who engaged to see the Model at one o'clock. We 
 then went & saw M r . Colden. On our way back we overtook 
 Miss Douglas, with whom I walked home to 55 Broadway. 
 The sisters came with us to the City hotel where M r . Ray 
 delivered a lecture on the patronage of the fine arts. After 
 the lecture the governor, M r . Murray & the two ladies 
 went & looked at the Model. I afterwards accompanied 
 Miss Hamilton to call on the Miss M c Ewin's. In the course 
 of the walk M r . Murray remarked in reply to several 
 favorable observations from [*] Miss Douglas, that those 
 with whom he had conversed thought M r . Owen a mad 
 visionary. Oh ! said the Governor, that is the fate of men of 
 talent; their enthusiasm is always called madness, & yet 
 nothing great can be accomplished without it. — 
 
 After breakfast the saloon was prepared for the public Friday Nov. 
 meeting, & the model placed in the middle of the room; at 18th - 
 
314 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Friday Nov r . 
 T8 th . contd 
 
 Saturday Nov 1 
 19 th . 
 
 Sunday 20 th . 
 
 Monday 21 s *. 
 Novr. 
 
 1 1 o'clock a large respectable & literary company assembled. 
 M r . Owen addressed them for two hours. They were 
 remarkably attentive and much interested. His discourse has 
 been the subject of much conversation since. At 4 o'clock 
 we dined 3 miles out of town, at Jeremiah Thompson's 
 where we met a large party of Friends. [*] The conversation 
 was about M r . Owen's Plan, and kept up principally by 
 M 1 ". McFarlane, a Scotch schoolmaster. In the evening we 
 called at M r . Post's at the Franklin Bank, and on the Garcias. 
 
 We called today on the Douglas, Hamilton, Capt n . Rogers, 
 Mr. Bayard, and Mrs. George Barclay. We dined at Mr. Clib- 
 born's where I met Capt n . Barclay of the navy. In the 
 evening we went to M r . Peel's museum who had borrowed 
 the model to put up in his museum till the day of sending 
 it to Philadelphia. Afterwards I went for an hour to the 
 Garcias. — George Hutchinson received his instructions & went 
 on board the Phenix Capt n . Jenkins with all [*] the heavy 
 baggage. The vessel will sail tomorrow for New Orleans. 
 
 After breakfast some gentlemen came in and had a long 
 conversation relative to the New System. I afterwards called 
 on M r . Aufrere. M r . Owen breakfasted with a Quaker of 
 the name of Beal, a great friend to his plan. M r . Hulme 
 dined with us. M r . Owen met M rs . Sketchley in the street, 
 who invited him to call on her. She is a lady who was 
 extremely interested with the discourse which he delivered at 
 the Public Meeting. We called there in the evening, and saw 
 her & her daughter ( a very fine girl). M r . Sketchley was 
 in the country. He commanded a Liverpool Packet for a 
 length of time ; but making an independence, he retired from 
 business. We met there two Patersons, brothers of one who 
 crossed last year in the same ship with us, and M r . Pohlentz 
 who was introduced to me by M r . Albers in Boston. We 
 drank tea [*] with Captain Bennett. 
 
 After breakfast we all called on M r . Miesto and went 
 with him to see a horizontal windmill. Afterwards I called 
 with Mr. Owen on M r . Wilkes, Mr. Colden, Mr. Buchanan, 
 D r . Blatchley, Madame Garcia, M r . Thomas, D r . Hosack, 
 M r . Ludlow, M r . Post, Jeremiah Thompson, the Governor, 
 Dr. Renwick, Dr. MacNevin, D»\ Mitchell, Dr. MacVicar, 
 Mr. Noah, Mr. Charles King, Miss Douglas, Mrs. Sketchley, 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 315 
 
 M»\ Houston & M rs . Sistare. We dined at M r . George Bar- 
 clay's where we met his father & mother a sister & two 
 brothers & M r . Aufrere. In the evening we called on 
 M rs . Sketchley and took leave. She particularly asked 
 concerning the road to New Harmony & wished us a good 
 journey and every success. 
 
 At 6 o'clock we set out by the steamboat. At Trenton Tuesday 22nd. 
 we met Prince Charles Bonaparte with whom we went down Nov 1 , 
 the Delaware three miles and landed at Bordentown on the 
 left bank, from whence we walked half a mile to Point 
 Breeze where Joseph Bonaparte lives. Prince Charles is 
 married to his daughter [*] and lives in a house adjoining 
 his grounds. We met at dinner a Madame La Coss & the 
 Count Meritot (Miot). He talked a great deal about 
 M r . Owen's plans. Prince Charles is a great admirer of 
 them. In the house are a great many very fine paintings, 
 and in the garden several fine family busts. A house 
 which he had built on his arrival in this country was burnt 
 down a few years since; by which he lost half his fortune & 
 many beautiful paintings. 
 
 Before breakfast we rode round the grounds, which Wednesday 2yd 
 are well laid out, & on which many improvements are Nov. 
 making. At breakfast Prince Lucian Murat who lives on a 
 farm at some distance, came in. A long conversation ensued 
 relative to M r . Owen's [*] system, which was very interest- Wednesday 2yd, 
 ing. Joseph has taken the name of Count Survilliers. He cont<*. 
 entered freely into the subject & made many very striking 
 remarks. He is a man of strong steady powers of mind, and 
 without any affected restraint is and acts the kingly 
 character. He offered to shew us his library & escorted 
 us through a suite of handsome appartments ornamented by 
 a variety of beautiful paintings. He accompanied us 
 through his grounds to the river side & taking friendly 
 leave, said he should be happy to see us again. I afterwards 
 heard that he had refused repeatedly to receive English 
 officers. When the M P's were in this country, a friend 
 undertook to introduce them without first asking the Count 
 to [*] allow him. He met the Count in his grounds and 
 when he presented them, the Count made a profound 
 
316 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 bow, & turned about and left them; so that they had only 
 a hasty & slight view of his person. 
 
 We embarked on board the steamboat at half past two, as 
 it passed & reached Philadelphia between 5 & 6. We found 
 about two dozen persons waiting to apply as mechanics to 
 join at Harmony, according to the advertisement. Very 
 few of them were good subjects. Their names were taken 
 down to be written to, on our arrival at Harmony. 
 Thursday 24* Mr Owen had a public meeting at Eleven. There was 
 
 a very full attendance of respectable people. He explained 
 his principles, but left the explanation of [*] his proposed 
 arrangements till tomorrow, as the Model had not arrived. A 
 few questions were asked by two Clergymen of the Society 
 of Friends, which he answered & the meeting separated 
 in good humour. 
 Friday 25*. Another crowded meeting took place at Eleven, at which 
 
 Mr. Owen received a letter asking him two questions, whether 
 his system would do for those who believed the Scriptures 
 to be a Divine Revelation, and whether he believed Man to 
 be born in sin & brought up in iniquity. He answered that 
 he did not think any revelation had been given to men but 
 through facts, explained the principles of the System, and 
 added that from his long experience he was thoroughly 
 convinced that human nature was a delightful compound. He 
 concluded [*] by explaining the Model & the mode of life 
 of one of the New Societies. This discourse occupied two 
 hours. No other person spoke, & the meeting after close 
 attention broke up highly interested. 
 Saturday 2&\ At 6 o'clock this morning Mr. Owen went by the steam- 
 
 boat with Smith & the Model to Point Breeze. I called on 
 Mr. Hulme, Mr. Longstreath & Mrs. Price, Mr. Spackman, 
 Dr. Rush, Madame Fretageot, Mr. Camac, & Mr. Wharton, 
 the mayor. I wrote a letter to Mr. Carey the bookseller to 
 forward annually 5 £ of books to Ed. Stanbery addressed 
 Sunday 27th. to the care of Messrs. Rathbone, Brothers & Co. In the 
 
 Nov. evening Mr. Owen returned from Point Breeze. — [*] 
 
 Sunday 27th This day we dispatched the model by the Steamboat at 
 
 Nov. j2 o'clock for Baltimore. [I saw gen 1 . & Mrs. Van Rensaleer 
 
 on their way to Washington.] We addressed several news- 
 papers to England. I called on Mr. Camac & saw Miss Penn. 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 317 
 
 I afterwards called on M r . Charles Ingersoll, M r . Charles 
 Tappan (2 nd door above 13 th . S*. south side of Chesnut 
 St.) M*\ William Meredith and M". Marcoo. I dined at 
 M r . Ingersoll's. He is the Attorney General of the state. A 
 gentlemanly person. His wife is a pleasing woman. At night 
 we made up the packets of letters to be sent to England. 
 
 This morning I sent several books & some linen for Monday 28^. 
 M r . Owen to be put with D r . Price's baggage, and sent the ^ ovr - 
 letters to Samuel Spackman's office. I likewise called on 
 M r . Carey & settled about his remitting yearly 5 £ worth of 
 American books [*] to Ed. Stanbery, and took leave of 
 M rs . Turner & her two amiable daughters. M r . Whitwell & 
 myself started in the 12 o'clock steamboat. On board I met 
 a M r . Dickey in whose company I had dined at M r . Clibborn's 
 in New T York, & M r . Jenckes the inventor of the Alleviator 
 (a machine for raising sick persons in their beds). We 
 reached Newcastle at 5 o'clock, where we got into stages & 
 crossed a distance of 16 miles to Frenchtown on the Elk 
 river where we embarked on board another steam boat 
 at 8 o'clock. We passed down this river into the Chesapeak 
 & up to Baltimore which we reached between 2 & 3 o'clock 
 in the morning of Tuesday [Fare from Phi* to Frenchtown 
 including dinner 3$ from thence to Baltimore including 
 tea & bed 3$] 
 
 We rose between 6 & 7 and went up to Barnum's Tuesday 20> h . 
 hotel. After breakfast I had the model taken to the waggon 
 office & booked for Washington. We then visited the 
 Catholic cathedral, the Unitarian [*] chapel & the court 
 house. In the latter we heard part of the trial of a young 
 man confined in the Penitentiary, and who had in a fit of 
 passion killed one of his comrades. It was an interesting- 
 case and a striking instance of the prejudicial tendency 
 of the coercive system upon human nature. The young man 
 was 18 years old & had been sentenced, when only 13, to 
 6 years confinement in the Penitentiary; and now within a 
 few months of the expiration of his imprisonment was guilty 
 of one of the most violent acts that can be committed! I 
 remarked in the lines of his countenance the powerful 
 influence of a constant disgrace & punishment during the 6 
 most important years of his youth. How can fear, constraint 
 
318 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Wednesday 30*'' 
 
 Thursday I s *. 
 Dec 1 ". [*] 
 Thursday i s t. 
 Dec r . 
 
 and the continual sense of oppression, fail to hurt the 
 human feelings, render the passions violent, and all the 
 sentiments those of animosity; unless indeed such a life & 
 miserable treatment happen to destroy all the spirits & en- 
 feeble the frame to such an extent as to leave the being 
 no better than an abject crouching slave? [*] after dinner 
 we called on M r . Denison floor cloth manufacturer who 
 shewed us a new manufactured canvass for covering 
 houses. We went with him to his private house & drank 
 tea with his wife. We afterwards called on M r . Skinner 
 the Editor of the American farmer. He introduced us to 
 his family, and gave us some white wine made in South 
 Carolina. We heard a young lady sing remarkably well ; but 
 were surprised to find rather an unfavorable feeling prevail 
 relative to the Italian singers arrived at New York, four 
 expenses were 5 1/2$] 
 
 A little before 9 this morning we left Baltimore in 
 a 9 inside stage for Washington distant 35 miles, fare 
 3$ each & dinner on the road 75 cents. Some members 
 of congress were in the stage. We reached Brown's Inn 
 (The Indian Queen) in Pensylvania avenue Washington, at 
 4 o'clock. We walked through the city, & in the evening 
 1 wrote up my journal. 
 
 After breakfast we called at the Patent office & saw 
 D»\ Thornton and M r . Elliot. When the English landed & 
 burnt several of the public buildings D r . Thornton saved the 
 Post Office in which the Patent office is, by representing 
 to the Commanding office [r] that if he burnt the building 
 he would destroy many valuable improvements in the arts. 
 He sent several constitutions to South America, and recom- 
 mended the Congress at Panama & the building of a central 
 Capital of which he drew a design. Some of his constitutions 
 were sent to Spain, which cause [d] the government of that 
 country to make a complaint against him. M r . Elliot who is 
 in his office, is very friendly to M r . Owen's plan & is 
 preparing a printing machine as a present to New Harmony. 
 We afterwards called on M r . Rush the Secretary of the 
 Treasury, M r . Vaughn (the British minister, M r . Addington 
 having sailed for England six weeks back) M r . Baker, the 
 British Consul General, & M r . Tho s . Law, for whom 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 319 
 
 M r . Camac gave me a letter. He engaged to call for us 
 about 12 o'clock tomorrow [*]. and introduce us to the 
 President. We dined at the Hotel at 3 o'clock ; about 90 sat 
 down to table, consisting for the most part of members of 
 Congress. They looked like men of business met together 
 for the purpose of doing business. It is customary for 
 them to meet the first few days at the hotels, where they 
 remain till they have formed their clubs, or chosen boarding 
 houses to reside in during the session. This day has been 
 cloudy & rainy. Though a good deal of building is going 
 on, yet Washington is a very straggling, awkward, ugly & 
 uncomfortable place, and must continue so for many years 
 to come. The broken ground, the complete want of trees 
 as well as cultivation, & the paltry buildings scattered here 
 and there, give to the whole landscape a rude and barren 
 appearance. Passing the southern extremity of the city, you 
 gradually descend to the side of the Potomack where George 
 Town stands. This is about a mile from Washington, though 
 almost connected by houses the whole way. As the banks of 
 the river are high and well wooded, the situation of George 
 town is far more picturesque than that of Washington with 
 its scattered lines of streets, drained marsh on [*] one side 
 and flat barrens on the other. 
 
 After breakfast we went to the Patent office, where the Friday ?«*. 
 Model had arrived. It was taken out of the boxes and placed Decr - 
 in a private room. M r . Elliot introduced us to M r . Liddle 
 Unitarian minister. He is librarian to the Washington 
 library which contains 5000 vols, at present in one of the 
 rooms belonging to the patent office. At 12 o'clock M r . Law 
 called and walked with us to the President's. We sent in 
 our cards & I sent in M r . Owen's letter presenting the 
 Model & a letter of introduction sent to me last winter 
 from M r . Rush while he was in London. We were admitted 
 immediately. The President resembles his father in figure, 
 being short & stout & having a large head. He was plainly 
 dressed, and not at all ceremonious. He said that he had 
 read in the newspaper that M r . Owen had a Model to present 
 to him. He fixed tomorrow at 1 1 o'clock to receive it. We 
 staid only a few minutes with him. M 1 ". Elliot shewed us 
 the city hall, of which only a small part is built. The model 
 
320 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 stands in the building & is neatly made. Between 3 & 4 
 o'clock we dined at M r . Elliot's. [*] He is a widower & lives 
 in a small house on the side of the rising ground near the 
 Capitol. He shewed us some astronomical instruments in his 
 house belonging to the government which he uses. The 
 President some times visits him when he is going to make 
 observations. We met at dinner Col. Robbido of the 
 Engineers, & Capt n . Moffatt of Virginia. 
 
 Saturday 3^. At eleven o'clock we had the Model conveyed to the 
 
 c ■ President's house. It was laid on a large table in the 
 
 Anteroom, where M r . Whitwell explained it to him. He 
 only asked a few simple questions, and concluded by saying 
 that it might remain there for some days, after which he 
 would have it deposited either in the Patent office or the 
 Capitol. He appears a thoughtful man. It struck us that 
 he was out of spirits, but this might proceed from the 
 fatigue of business and seeing so many visitors; for every 
 member or person coming to Washington on business calls 
 upon him, & as congress is to open next Monday these duties 
 at the present moment press hard upon him. He was very 
 polite to us. While we were explaining the model, three 
 members called. The President immediately asked us all 
 into his sitting-room. In the course of general conversation, 
 
 (Saturday 3 rd he said to the members that we [*] were friends of 
 Mr. Owen who had brought a Model of the town he proposed 
 building. "What," said one of them, "is that the Harmony 
 man?" After their departure the explanation was continued 
 for a short time, and then we retired, having been received & 
 treated with great politeness. It is said that the President 
 has, all his life, been too much occupied with study & business 
 to be what is called in company f a man of the world'. We 
 walked to George town, situated on the sloping ground 
 on the left bank of the Potomac. Although it is not a neat 
 town, yet it is handsomely situated & appears more comfort- 
 able as a place of residence than straggling Washington. We 
 dined at M r . Law's on the Capitol Hill. Besides his son we 
 met Col. White, M r . [MS illegible] & another gentleman, all 
 members of congress. After dinner M r . Law left us for a 
 couple of hours to attend a meeting of the Institute. On his 
 return he gave us a pamphlet on Paper Currency. The 
 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 321 
 
 society meets monthly, and during the sitting of congress 
 every week. M r . Law spoke of addressing the President 
 that he might allow the Model to be placed in their Hall in 
 the Capitol where it would be seen by every one. He likewise 
 offered us a letter of introduction to Mr. Jefferson. [*] 
 
 Mr. Elliot called & accompanied us to the Unitarian Sunday 4^. 
 chapel in which M^. Little preached. The President came Dec', 
 in quite by himself, sat alone in a private pew, & retired after 
 the service without any particular notice being taken of 
 him. It is remarkable that the First Magistrate in one 
 country should regularly attend a place of worship which 
 in the Mother Country is considered a highly disreputable & 
 profane place. In the afternoon we walked to George 
 town & saw Mr. Thorp, whose family resides at New 
 Harmony. He has lately received newspapers & a satis- 
 factory letter from that society. It appears to me that there 
 is a great error committed in the conduct of the New 
 Harmony Gazette. It seems to be written by Deists with 
 a design of converting its readers. It consists almost entirely 
 of theoretical discussions. Whereas I think that it should 
 only contain on the one hand a statement of the practical 
 proceedings of the population, those practices in operation, 
 others in prospect, & the effect of what had already been 
 done: and on the other [*] hand scientific articles, informa- 
 tion on practical subjects, and as full an account as possible 
 of all the interesting events of the times. The Old System 
 is based on mere theory & supported by speaking & preach- 
 ing; but the New System should be entirely founded on 
 practice, and only be explained and advocated by a statement 
 of its practices & a reference to their effects. — In the 
 evening I received a letter of introduction to M r . Jefferson 
 from M r . Law. 
 
 In the morning we called at the Patent office on Monday 5* 
 Mr. Elliot and went with him to the offices of the Wash- Dec. 
 ington newspapers which are three in number, published 
 daily except Sundays. The National Intelligencer; Editor 
 Mr. Gales (rather opposed to the present President) and 
 the National Journal, Editor Mr. Forse (considered the 
 ministerial Paper) both morning Papers, and the Washington 
 Gazette M r . Elliot, published every afternoon. The Editors 
 
322 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 promised to insert articles relative to the Model having been 
 presented to the President. We then called on Pishey 
 Thompson Bookseller, a great friend to M r . Owen's 
 system, agent for [*] the Harmony Gazette. We purchased 
 a Washington guide, & Jefferson's Notes on Virginia — Be- 
 tween 12 & i, we went in a stage about a mile down to 
 the steam boat on the Potomak, a short distance below the 
 bridge, on board of which we embarked for the mouth of 
 Potomak creek, which we reached about 8 o'clock in the 
 evening. On the way we passed Fort Washington strongly 
 built on the left bank at a narrow part of the river which 
 it defends, and three miles lower down Mount Vernon, the 
 late residence of Washington & the present abode of Judge 
 Washington. It stands on an elevated bank & has a 
 fine & extensive view of the river. We travelled about g 
 miles through a broken country in stages to Fredericksburg, 
 where we arrived at half after io. The charge, from 
 Washington including dinner & supper, was $4.75 each. A 
 boy in the stage amused us by singing a negro song, one 
 verse of which ran thus. 
 
 My old mistress is dead & gone 
 And has left her jawbone a ploughing the corn 
 
 Wheel about, my Dear, 
 
 And turn about So, 
 
 Wheel about, my dear, 
 
 And jump Jim Crozv. 
 The singer when he comes to the word So, jumps upon his 
 Tuesday 6^. [*] toes, and on his heels at the word Crozv. 
 Tuesday Dec r . At 5 in the morning we set out in the Charlottesville 
 
 6 1h - stage a fourhorse spring covered waggon. It carried the 
 
 New Orleans mail bags. We stopped to breakfast at 
 Wilderness, 16 miles, and not choosing to dine early 
 continued to the end of the day's journey to Bentivoglio, 
 where we arrived about seven in the evening. A M r . Paris 
 of Staunton, proprietor of part of the line of stages, was 
 our only companion. The weather was remarkably clear, but 
 cold and frosty; The road extremely rough; the carriage 
 very uneasy, and the country covered with wood & thinly 
 settled. The soil in many part was a red earth. 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 32.\ 
 
 We set out at 4 o'clock in the morning and reached Wednesday 
 Charlottesville soon after 8. It is situated upon waving Decr - 7 th - 
 land, the west being shut in by the Blue Ridge, a beautiful 
 line of mountains from one to two thousand feet high, and 
 the last being broken by several picturesque hills, on one 
 of which is situated M r . Jefferson's Place called Monticello. 
 About a mile & a half west of Charlottesville stand the 
 New University of Virginia. The surrounding country is 
 not much settled, and is thickly covered by the forest 
 containing a great variety of trees, which are not of very 
 great size. Between 11 & 12 we took a hack & went up 
 the winding hill of three miles ascent by a bad road [*] to 
 M r . Jefferson's. The summit of the hill on which his house 
 is built, has been flattened so as to form a circular plateau of 
 about a hundred yards. The house, though not large, is of 
 good dimensions and its architecture clasical. In the 
 hall & rooms are several interesting busts & paintings. 
 Among the busts of American patriots we remarked those 
 of Franklin, Madison, Adams & Gen 1 . Jackson; and of 
 conspicuous foreigners, those of Napoleon, & La Fayette. 
 M r . Jefferson is very tall & thin though muscular. He has 
 a lively eye and expressive countenance, though none of his 
 features are of a large & bold character. He has been of 
 late unwell & looked pale and a little debilitated ; but bears 
 many marks of having been handsome as a youth. Although 
 he is above 83, no apparent decay of intellect was perceptible 
 during our short visit. He conversed with quickness and 
 spirit on general subjects. He displayed great knowledge 
 of architecture and mechanics, while conversing relative to 
 the New University, the designing & building of which has 
 occupied a very great portion of his attention for more 
 than 20 years. His notions are to have primary schools 
 in districts of 6 square miles, secondary ones 10 in number 
 for the whole state, and this University which is near the 
 center, as a [*] finishing school for the scholars who design 
 to study the higher branches. The University will, however, 
 receive students from other states, if there be vacancies. We 
 remained to dine, & staying till dark, he would not allow 
 us to descend the hill in the dark, the road being dangerous 
 at night. YYe met at dinner & in the evening, his daughter 
 
324 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 M r s. Randolph (M r . Randolph was from home,) and 
 several of her sons & daughters, some of them grown up. 
 One of her daughters is married to M r . Triste. They 
 were staying in the house. Another daughter is married 
 to a M r . Coledge of Boston. 
 Thursday Dec r . Before breakfast I walked out round the house, & ad- 
 
 mired the beautiful and extensive view below me. To the 
 east, the rising sun, with a sea of forest, every here & there 
 a smoke of a settlement floating like a cloud over the 
 trees, and to the west the beautiful Blue ridge inclosing 
 the broad vale of waving lands, in which the two principle 
 objects are Charlottesville & the New University. This is a 
 delightful residence during the greater part of the year ; but 
 in the months of Jany. Feb. & March, the frost, rains & high 
 winds, render it extremely disagreeable. 
 
 M r . Jefferson gave us a note to M r . Brockenburgh the 
 Proctor of the University, & after breakfast we drove 
 there. This gentleman walked through the [*] buildings, and 
 shewed us the improved method of covering buildings 
 with flat wooden roofs, & with tin roofs. The several 
 buildings exhibit examples of the various orders of archi- 
 tecture, and form a striking scene. We purchased plans of 
 the buildings, and explanatory pamphlets of the nature of the 
 Institution. Five of the Professors are from England, one 
 is a son [of] Professor Bonnecastle of Woolwich. The 
 Medical Professor Dunglisson, stated that facts had in 
 numerous instances proved that the miasmata which 
 occasions so much sickness in hot climates does not rise 
 very high, & that persons inhabiting the ground floor of 
 a building have often been very sickly while those on the 
 first floor enjoyed good health. 
 
 We returned to the Inn about 3 o'clock and in the course 
 
 of the evening had a long conversation with a M r . Slaughter 
 
 staying in the house. The name of the Landlord is G. Garnett. 
 
 Friday 9 th - Soon after 9 in the morning we left Charlottesville in 
 
 Decr - the mail stage for Staunton, on our way to see the Natural 
 
 Bridge. The country through which we passed was hilly, & 
 
 woody, and every here & there a small settlement. The road 
 
 (Friday 9* h . was [*] very broken, & we made only from 4 to 5 miles 
 
 Dec r contd) an h our T n t ^ e afternoon we crossed the Blue ridge and 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 325 
 
 had an extensive view of the valleys on both sides, but at 
 this season & the woody state of the country, the prospect 
 was not remarkably interesting. The land is not very 
 rich, nor the timber large or of a fine appearance. — Two of 
 the students from the College were passengers with us, going 
 home for the winter vacation, which is the only one. We 
 read the President's message in the Richmond Enquirer, 
 which violently attacked it. The students seemed to have 
 the same feeling, which made us conclude that the spirit of 
 party in the Virginia University was opposed to the existing 
 government. We reached Staunton soon after 7 in the 
 evening, when finding that our funds were small & that we 
 could not obtain credit conveniently as we were strangers, we 
 determined to give up at present visiting the Natural 
 Bridge, & return by the way of Harper's Ferry. — The 
 Natural Bridge is described as a very picturesque rock 
 forming an arched bridge across a deep [*] ravine, between 
 2 & 300 feet deep, through which a creek passes. M r . Jef- 
 ferson in his Notes on Virginia describes it as a most 
 striking scene. He told us that M r . Liston, when minister 
 in this country, said that the Falls of Niagara and the 
 Natural Bridge were the two most remarkable and beautiful 
 natural curiosities in North America. 
 
 At 2 o'clock this morning we set out in the mail stage Saturday 10* 
 for Winchester, paying 6$ each. The night was clear and 
 there was a hard frost. We travelled slowly and were much 
 jolted, though the road was better that [sic] the Charlottes- 
 ville road. W r e breakfasted at Harrisonburg. The [re] we 
 saw one of the society of Dunkers. He wore a long 
 beard, but in other respects appeared like an American. On 
 asking the landlord some questions concerning that sect, he 
 said that it resembled as far as he knew the Society of 
 Quakers, that a good many Dunkers lived in the town and 
 neighbourhood, but not in a distinct society, that they were 
 decent, industrious & inoffensive [*] citizens. We reached 
 Woodstock where we supped & put up for the night, about 
 1/2 past 6. This road lies through a rich vale between the 
 Blue Ridge & one of the ridges of the Alleghanies. It is 
 well settled & in many parts tolerably improved. The mail 
 stage from Baltimore to New Orleans passes through this 
 
326 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Sunday n th . 
 
 (Sunday n tb . 
 Dec r . cont d ) 
 
 Monday i2* h . 
 
 vale. It has been running for above 20 years, while that from 
 Fredericksburg which meets it at Staunton has only been 
 established two years. At present the inhabitants living 
 along these two lines of communication, are looking out 
 anxiously for the decision of the government Commissioners 
 whether the National road shall pass by Winchester or 
 Charlottesville: if through the latter place, the road by 
 Winchester will be immediately improved in order to keep 
 pace with the new one. We this evening fell in with a 
 gentleman we had met in the Baltimore steamboat. He 
 said that he was going into the Arkansaw country, and as 
 he learnt that the rivers were too low for steam boats, he 
 had determined to take the stage rout through Nashville. We 
 conversed [*] about M r . Owen, when he said that it was 
 his intention to return up the rivers, and to visit New 
 Harmony on his way. He had seen New Lanark, and 
 related to us some absurd stories which he had heard of the 
 arrangements made in that Establishment, such as turning 
 the work people away, removing bad families into a street in 
 the village called Botany Bay, & rewarding & punishing 
 the children in the school. At parting he gave us his Name 
 (Beveridge) and hoped on his return to see us in Baltimore, 
 should we ever pass through that city. We conjectured 
 him to be a Fur trader, as he talked of his having Indian 
 chiefs as friends. 
 
 We left Woodstock about 3 this morning, breakfasted 
 at Middleton, passed through Winchester, a neat town, and 
 reached Harper's Ferry about 7 in the evening. The fare 
 from Winchester 2.50. Harper's ferry is at the junction of 
 the Shenandoah with the Potomac. Here these rivers run 
 between steep and rugged ridges 700 or 800 feet high, which 
 are clothed with timber. [*] This place is encreasing in 
 consequence of the United States manufactory of Arms being 
 established here. We went through M 1 *. Hall's manufactory 
 of Patent rifles; — a monopoly of this Patent has been 
 secured by the government, and M r . Hall is employed to 
 carry on the business. He very politely explained the process 
 to us and allowed us to fire one of the rifles. The chamber 
 in which the charge is placed, is raised by a spring and the 
 charge is put in without the use of a ramrod. By this method 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 327 
 
 the piece can be loaded two or three times faster at least 
 than the common musket. We saw a good sawmill, and 
 inspected the apparatus employed in boring for the depth of 
 some hundred feet through rock in search of water. We had 
 a long conversation with Major Stephenson, who keeps the 
 tavern, M r . Alexander the government storekeeper, and a 
 M r . Thomas, relative to M r . Owen's Plan. They appeared 
 much interested relative to his proceedings.— During our 
 journey we found our breakfast generally to cost $7 l / 2 cents 
 each [*] our dinner 50 cents, and our bed & supper 75 cents 
 each. — We engaged a hack with two horses to carry us by 
 tomorrow 7 evening to Washington for 20$, including the 
 ferries, tolls, & expenses of driver & horses on the road. We 
 set out about one oclock, crossed the ferry over the 
 Shenandoah, and proceeded for a mile on the right bank 
 of the Potomak; then crossed the ridge to the right, and 
 reached Leedsburg about 7 in the evening distant, 24 
 miles. [Leedsburg is a neat small town, & the inn very 
 comfortable, speaking comparatively.] The day had been 
 cold & cloudy. In the afternoon it snowed a little. 
 
 We rose about 1/2 past 6, and started at 7 o'clock. The Tuesday 13 th . 
 morning was very bright, but a hard frost & brisk breeze Decr - 
 made it very cold. The country was more open and settled 
 than that which we had passed through. We stopped at an 
 inn by the roadside (M r . Drane's) to breakfast, and thence 
 descended over a hilly [*] country to the chain bridge which 
 has been 27 years built over the Potomak, 3 miles above 
 George town. [Two chains pass over peirs on both sides, & 
 forming semicircular curves, support each end of the 
 beams at the center of the bridge. The construction is 
 simple, good, and looks very well.] The river was very low 
 at this time. The channel under the bridge appeared about 
 20 yards wide. Five miles above this bridge are the 
 Potomak falls, which are between 100 & 200 feet high. We 
 should have visited them had it been a proper season, & the 
 river full of water. W T e passed through George town & 
 reached Brown's hotel in Pensylvania Avenue Washington, 
 about 1/2 past five. [I met in the coffee room youn(g) 
 Thurston, who had returned from Harmony. He talked of 
 going back.] We found two notes from M r . & M rs . Adams 
 
328 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Wednesday 14 th . 
 Dec r . 
 
 Thursday 15 th . 
 Dec r . 
 
 (Thursday 15 th . 
 Dec r cont d .) 
 
 Friday 16 th . 
 Dec r . 
 
 inviting us to dinner this day at five. We regretted we 
 had just arrived too late. The distance from Leedsburg, is 
 about 35 miles. 
 
 This morning we went to the Patent office, & thence to 
 D r . Thornton's, where we saw his wife & her mother. We 
 then called on the President, & sat half an hour with his 
 lady. On our return I purchased a pocket Spanish dic- 
 tionary, & two small [*] Spanish books. We called and 
 saw M r . Law who lent us 'The Precepts of Jesus' by 
 Rammohun Roy, to read. We intended to go this evening 
 to the Lady President's Drawing room, but not expecting 
 to meet persons of our acquaintance, we remained at home. 
 
 We breakfasted with Mr. Elliot, called and saw Mr. Hat- 
 field the architect, & M r . Hutton the stationer, who made 
 a model for M r . Owen when he was here last winter, went to 
 George town & saw M r . Milligan & M r . Laird from whom 
 we learnt that M r . Bell who proposed to go to Harmony to 
 manage the farms was not a very experienced or steady 
 person. We dined at M r . Elliot's where we met a M r . Gard- 
 ner, & saw an observation of the moon's passage across the 
 Meridian. We drank tea at M r . Little's, where we were 
 introduced to his wife [*] and two daughters. He is the 
 Unitarian minister. He left England several years ago. I 
 this day drew on Samuel Spackman Church All[e]y North 
 Third Street Philadelphia, for $250, through the U. S. 
 Bank, and this evening wrote to give him notice thereof. 
 
 We called this morning on M r . Test a member for 
 Indiana. We afterwards went to the Capitol, where he 
 heard some debating in the Chamber of Representatives. We 
 called at Queen's Hotel where we saw M r . Jennings & 
 M r . Boon, both members for Indiana. We also called on 
 General Noble Senator for the same state, and left our 
 cards for Governor Hendricks, the other senator, there 
 being 2 senators & 3 representatives for Indiana. We 
 dined at D r . Thornton's where we met a M rs . Smith & a 
 M r . Talbot. The Doctor entertained us with his metaphisical 
 system of religion. In the evening I saw & [*] conversed 
 with M r . Quin, who had returned here from Harmony 
 which he left on the 15 th . Nov r . His description of the 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 329 
 
 state of things there was very favorable. He goes back 
 again in a few days. 
 
 We called on M r . G. R. Bakewell an inventor of an Saturday i;^. 
 improved Brick kiln ; he shewed us his model & took us to see 
 one which he had constructed. It appears to be contrived 
 on the principle of kilns for burning pottery. We called on 
 M r . Little and afterwards dined with M r . Gardner. In the 
 evening we went to the Columbian Institute in a room in the 
 Capitol. M r . Law read a paper on Paper Currency. There 
 were from 10 to 20 persons present. At night we called & 
 sat for an hour with M r . Elliot's brother who is Editor of 
 the Washington Gazette. — As Spanish, next to English, is 
 the most important language in the New World, I have 
 purchased two or three Spanish books [*] and borrowed 
 others from M r . Elliot, & occasionally study that language. 
 
 This morning M r . Elliot gave me some Spanish books. Sunday i8* h . 
 At eleven we went to the Hall of Representatives & ^ec r . 
 heard a sermon by D r . Stoughton. The President was 
 there, several members, & some of the Ladies and gentlemen 
 of the city. The Hall is an extremely bad room to speak 
 in. The ladies did not appear well. While we were out 
 General Noble, Governor Hendricks & M r . Jennings called 
 on us. We spent the afternoon with M r . Elliot. 
 
 This morning I called on M r . Law. We afterwards Monday 19A 
 saw General Noble, Governor Hendricks, M r . Jennings & Dec r . 
 M r . Boon, and fixed to meet them at 10 o'clock on 
 Wednesday morning and go to the President's house to see 
 the model. General Noble shewed us the Senate chamber, and 
 introduced us to some of the members. Among the 
 number were General Harrison & M r . Calhoun. The 
 latter is tall & spare. He has a very intelligent & quick 
 expression of countenance & a good manner. He remarked 
 that he felt great interest in M r . Owen's proceedings & thought 
 that there were now at work in the world some active prin- 
 ciples which gave assurance of important improvements in 
 society being very near at hand. We walked through various 
 appartments of the Capitol, but observed that the interior of 
 the building was very much wasted in passages. In one 
 room we saw [*] two paintings, by Turnbull, intended to 
 be placed in the large Rotunda ; one represents the surrender 
 
330 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Tuesday 20 th . 
 Dec r . 
 
 Wednesday 21**. 
 Dec r . 
 
 ( Wednesday 2 1 st . 
 Dec r . cont d ) 
 
 Thursday 
 Dec r . 
 
 •2nd 
 
 Friday 23 
 
 rd 
 
 of General Burgoyne & his Army ; the other has Washington 
 in the foreground presenting a paper to several distinguished 
 characters of the Revolution. These paintings are well 
 executed. I received a letter from Samuel Spackman 
 acknowledging the receipt of mine, & notifying his having 
 placed the sum specified to my credit in the U. S. Bank. 
 
 We spent the evening at M r . Little's in company with 
 M r . Elliot. We met there a Miss Webster. We had a long con- 
 versation relative to the 'New Views/ M r . Elliot contended 
 in favor of the freedom of man. — At night I wrote letters. — 
 
 [The weather was fine and temperate.] This morning 
 I called on Mr. Test. Mr. Bakewell called & left a letter 
 for M r . Owen relative to his new Brick kiln. M r . Bell called 
 and said he should write to the committee relative to his join- 
 ing at Harmony. I spent the rest of the day writing letters. 
 
 At 10 o'clock we went according to appointment with the 
 members of Indiana, the 2 senators General Noble & Governor 
 Hendricks, & the 3 representatives M es srs. Test, Boon & Jen- 
 nings, to see the model at the President's house. He was 
 out. M r . Whitwell explained it, after which we parted, & 
 went to the annual meeting of the Columbian College, where 
 we heard some addresses delivered by students. At two 
 o'clock we called and took leave of the President. [*] He 
 was very friendly in manner. Speaking of the model he 
 remarked that the plan seemed well designed for a university. 
 W T e called and took leave of M rs . Thornton. The evening 
 was spent with M»\ Elliot & Mr. Hatfield. Mr. Whitwell 
 was designing an almanack for New Harmony. 
 
 We breakfasted with M r . Elliot. I afterwards called on the 
 Indiana members, and spent the rest of the clay writing letters. 
 At night M r . Elliot & D r . Curtin were with us. We packed 
 up a rain gauge & some barometer glasses for Harmony. 
 
 A little after midnight there was a cry of fire, which 
 upon opening the window, we found to be that the roof of the 
 library in the Capitol was on fire. We heard that it had been 
 communicated by a flue, & that people were busy removing 
 the books. We started at 2 o'clock in the Frederick town 
 mail stage leaving it burning. [Fare to Frederick 45 miles 
 is 4$ & thence to Hagerstown 28, $2 t/2.] We reached 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 331 
 
 Frederick town to dinner between one & two o'clock ; & 
 thence to Hagerstown where we arrived at 8 o'clock. 
 
 We started at 2 o'clock in the morning & reached Cumber- 
 land at 1/2 past 6 at night Fare 5 1/2$ [Distance 60 miles] 
 
 We set out from Cumberland [*] at 1/2 past 4 & reached 
 Griffin's Hotel at 9 at night. 
 
 We set out at 7 and reached Washington at 9 at night. 
 The Distance from Cumberland to Washington is 100 
 miles, and the fare 6$. W r e travelled part of the way in 
 a coach, and a part in a spring covered mail waggon. 
 
 We left Washington at 9 and reached Pittsburg at 5 in 
 the evening. Distance 25 miles, fare 2 1/2$. The road 
 is very bad & hilly. The weather was frosty during our 
 journey, except Sunday 25 th when we had some rain among 
 the hills. We found that the river had been for weeks frozen 
 up; that M r . Owen's party had purchased a keelboat, in 
 which they had descended the river 20 miles to near the 
 mouth of Beaver Creek where they were frozen up; and 
 that he had gone on by himself in the Cincinnati stage. 
 
 We saw Mi*. Bakewell and drank tea at his house. We also 
 saw M r . Sutton, & called on [*] M r . Baldwin. We walked over 
 the wooden bridge over the Alleghany river, & examined its 
 construction, & likewise went through the New Penitentiary 
 building near the city. It is a costly building, and on a plan 
 to cage up the prisoners like wild beasts. 
 
 This was a frosty and snowy day, which we passed 
 indoors. In the evening M r . Sutton & M r . Stewart called 
 upon us. — A few days ago the Alleghany river rose, the ice 
 broke & came down into the Ohio, but not being able to break 
 the ice in this river, the ice of the Alleghany was driven 
 some distance up the Monongahela river, forming a confused 
 mass, parts standing up in wedges, and other parts laying 
 one over the other. Fears have been entertained for the 
 Monongehela bridge & the boats on the river side, should 
 that river suddenly open. [*] 
 
 This morning was rainy, the weather having changed & 
 the wind come round to the south. We went to some book 
 stores to seek a few books. I asked for Spanish works, but 
 could not find any. We spent the evening with M r . Sutton, 
 where we met M r . Stewart. M r . Richardson & M 1 '. Armstrong. 
 
 Saturday 24 th . 
 Sunday 25 
 
 Monday 26th. 
 Dec 1 ". 
 
 Tuesday 27th. 
 
 Wednesday 28 th . 
 
 Thursday 29th. 
 
 Friday 30 th . 
 Dec r . 
 
332 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 Saturday 31 st . 
 Dec 1 . 
 
 (Saturday 31st. 
 Dec*. cont<*) 
 
 Sunday 1st, 
 Jany. 1826 
 
 Monday 2 nd . 
 Jany. 
 
 M r . Sutton gave us some of his genuine Tuscaloosa, a liquor 
 distilled from Wheat & Rye. These gentlemen spoke 
 favorably of M r . Owen's Plan. M r . Owen had a public 
 meeting while in Pittsburg. 
 
 We rose at 4 o'clock, paid our bill amounting to 12$ 
 including fare of stage to Economy, 75 cents each, and 
 set out in the stage at 5 o'clock. The stage was a small 
 covered spring waggon, but they contrived to cram to 
 inside. The road runs by the side of the Ohio under some 
 steep hills and so narrow that some parts of it are called the 
 Narrows. At one place we met two waggons, and had to 
 get out, unfasten the horses [*] and back the waggon into 
 a corner to let them pass. Just after this we were overtaken 
 by two horsemen one had fallen over the bank a short 
 distance behind, but had fortunately escaped with a few- 
 slight bruises. We all stopped 15 miles along the road at 
 Jackson's Inn, a poor place, to breakfast at 9 o'clock. Just 
 after breakfast when we were moving off from the inn, the 
 waggon slipped off the bank on the side of the road & sliding 
 down about 10 feet upset. Though the top was much smashed 
 no limbs were broken. A good many of the party were 
 bruised and among the number M r . Whitwell, who had his 
 foot a good deal hurt. During breakfast we had been joking 
 with the gentleman who had fallen from his horse. He 
 proved to be an Irish Doctor residing near Beaver. He came 
 running out to offer his services, and now in his turn made 
 a few jocose remarks upon our disaster. — The Waggon 
 having been raised up, and tolerably ordered, [*] we again 
 proceeded, & reached Economy about 1 1 o'clock. M r . Rapp 
 received us politely. We dined & supped with him, walked with 
 M r . Frederick Rapp to look at their work, and at night went 
 to hear their band, composed of 14 players. — The Economites 
 have been very industrious, since I was here in June. They 
 have nearly completed a large brick Factory, a steam mill, & 
 a house for M r . Rapp, besides other improvements. 
 
 This day was stormy, freezing & snowing. M r . Whitwell 
 went in the afternoon to the Economite house of worship. 
 
 Frost & snow. I called and saw several of my old 
 acquaintances. A Traveller informed us that about 7 o'clock 
 the preceding evening the ice broke up at Pittsburg. I 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 
 
 333 
 
 saw great quantities of ice passing down the river. We 
 have no tidings of M r . Owen's party in the keel boat 
 below [*] Beaver, but conjecture that they have gone on, as 
 the river has been open here & below this place for four 
 days. — The stage (which passes every other day,) did not 
 pass today, its regular day, but the mail bag was forwarded 
 on a sleigh. We hope that a steam boat may leave Pittsburg 
 tomorrow & take us up as it passes, the river having risen 
 two feet. — Among the numerous vague reports which we 
 have heard of this society, one is that in the course of the 
 past summer, M r . Rapp married 40 members ; but I have 
 not as yet seen any thing here to warrant my crediting this 
 report. — The neighbours seem to have no very friendly 
 feeling to the society, on account of their close habits & the 
 mistery which hangs over all their proceedings. Another 
 traveller told us that there was a society forming in Portage Tuesday & Wed- 
 nesday 3 rd . & 4 th . 
 Jany. 
 
 County, Ohio, on M r . Owen's Plan. 
 
 At Economy. Windy & Frosty. 
 
 The steamboats at Pittsburgh have been driven high & Thursday 5th 
 dry on the river bank by the force of the ice ; leaving us 
 no [*] chance of getting a passage down the river in one of 
 them. This morning at 7 o'clock the Thermometer stood as 
 low as 3 1/2 degrees, being 28 1/2 below freezing. The 
 day was calm & clear, & at 12 o'clock the glass stood 
 at 20 — This afternoon M r . Smith arrived from the keelboat 
 which he informed us was lying among the ice 7 miles below 
 Beaver. A gentleman also arrived with a Miss Dupalais, (one 
 of M r . Le Seur's party) going to Harmony. She had been 
 left sick at Pittsburg. 
 
 This morning clear & fine. The ther r in the course of the Friday 6* h . 
 night had been as low as 3 above zero. M r . Fred. Rapp called 
 in the course of the day ; also D r . Miiller. I inclosed my letter 
 under cover to Jermiah Thompson at New York. We learnt 
 from M r . Smith that M r . Maclure & Madame Fretageot had 
 gone as far as Steubenville. — 
 
 We went in the stage to Beaver, & thence walked 6 miles Saturday 7^. 
 to where the keel boat lay in the ice. 
 
 This day was employed cutting a channel through the Sunday 8* h . 
 ice into the channel of the river, which was open. On board J any * 
 the boat we found all the Party going from Philadelphia 
 
334 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 to Harmony, except M r . Owen and M rs . Fisher who had 
 gone back [*] to Pittsburg, and thence taken the mail stage 
 to Wheeling, and Mr. Maclure & Mrs. Fretageot who had 
 (Sunday 8th. gone down in a wagon to Steubenville. The keelboat was 
 
 Jaiiy. contd) divided into 4 apartments, one occupied by 6 boatmen & their 
 
 Captain, the other three by the travellers. The boat was 
 called the Philanthropist, and the ladies cabin Paradise. The 
 names of the company were as follows, Robert Dale Owen, 
 D r . & M^. Price & 3 children, Miss Sistair & two sisters, 
 M r . Dupalais & his sister, Miss Turner, M r . Le Seur & one 
 child, Mr. Phiquepal & 10 boys, M r . Smith, Mr. Say, and 
 a carpenter of the name of Beal & his wife & child, the latter 
 assisting the ladies in arranging the interior economy & 
 cooking. M r . Say kept the accounts and had the government 
 of the boat. The Party had been three weeks shut up in an 
 eddy in the ice. They amused themselves during this 
 period, hunting and examining the country. Some birds, a 
 brown fox & a few fish had been taken and stuffed by the 
 naturalists & scholars for the museum at Harmony, & the 
 mean time hung up in the cabin. 
 
 The next day (Monday) we pushed out at day light 
 into the center of the stream where the river was free of 
 ice, and assisting [*] the boatmen at the sweeps we went 
 down the river at the rate of 5 miles an hour. The banks 
 were hilly, rocky & woody. A little before dark we reached 
 Steubenville, where a Judge came on board with his son 
 a boy of 10 years of age, whom he wished to be taken to 
 the Pestalozzian school at Harmony. He informed us that 
 M r . Maclure & M e . Fretageot had gone on to Wheeling. I 
 landed with him went to his house, & received in name 
 of the Society 25$ being a quarter in advance for his son's 
 education. Steubenville is a small thriving town on the 
 river side. I was told that many of the mechanics there 
 were trying to establish a community. During the night 
 we floated down the stream at the rate of two miles an 
 hour. Early in the morning (at day break) the sweeps 
 were again in motion, & we reached Wheeling about 9 
 o'clock. There M r . Maclure & M e . F. came on board. 
 Mr. Owen had set off a fortnight before in the mail stage 
 with Mrs. Fisher, leaving a note for me & some baggage 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 335 
 
 to be put on board our boat. Our accommodation on board 
 was extremely good considering & things well arranged. [*] 
 The exercise of rowing was agreeable, and we had frequent 
 opportunities of landing with a skiff which we towed after 
 the keelboat. We found the river banks studded with log- 
 cabins, frame houses & some brick buildings. We were well 
 supplied with milk & eggs, and sometimes got fruit & 
 poultry. The hunters killed some birds, which in an evening- 
 afforded both instruction & amusement during the process 
 of stuffing them. The weather though frosty, was 
 clear & healthy. Our evenings were pleasantly passed in 
 reading & conversation. Two good stoves served well for 
 the double purpose of warming the cabins, & furnishing us 
 with a full supply of warm food & fresh bread. Once or 
 twice when the weather was mild & the moon up, we sat 
 upon the top or deck, and had some music. One evening, the 
 wind blowing strong up the stream and our boat being too 
 light to float down the current, we made the bank, and visited 
 a large farm. It being about sunset & supper time, we 
 invited three lively females on board, who were so pleased 
 with our party that I almost think they might have been [*] 
 induced to join our fortunes. The old lady, their mother, 
 said she could not spare them all & so suddenly, but talked 
 of a summer excursion to see how we got on at Harmony. 
 Thus we continued moving down the river in high 
 health & spirits for 9 days, when we reached Cincinnati, 600 
 miles below Pittsburg [(in the evening)]. In the course of 
 the last day quantities of floating ice overtook us with a 
 rapid rise of the river, the ice having broken up with late 
 rains in the north ; and it required our united labours at the 
 sweeps to make the bank of the river, and avoid being 
 carried by its force past Cincinnati. Robert Dale Owen 
 landed with me, & called on M r . Green, his father's agent, 
 from whom we learnt that M r . Owen had left that place 10 
 days before in a steamboat with M rs . Fisher. He had been 
 60 miles up the country at the Yellow Springs community on 
 the forks of the Miami river, which had partly suspended its 
 operations in consequence of a want of funds. The next day 
 the Party divided and visited their several friends, walked 
 about [*] the town, saw the curiosities, made little purchases, 
 
336 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 & laid in stock. In the evening M r . Symmes, the author of 
 a new theory on the shape of the Earth, who resides in 
 Cincinnati, met M r . Maclure & some of the Party at the City 
 Hotel, & occupied them for an hour with his theory. I was 
 prevented by engagements being present more than a quarter 
 of an hour, during which time I could not get any satisfactory 
 information, as his remarks were desultory and common 
 place, & delivered in a faultering manner without clearness 
 or connection. He had in his hand a small ball, either of 
 clay or wood, hollowed in one part like a tea cup, to represent 
 the concavity of the Earth at its Poles. 
 
 Early in the morning, the ice having for the most part 
 past us, we got out into the stream, and in the evening of 
 the following day reached the bank of the river just above 
 Louisville (150 miles below Cincinnati) and opposite to 
 Jef fersonville. We landed for a short time, when M r . Maclure 
 met M r . Neef the Pestalozzian teacher. We called on the 
 Harmony agent from whom we learnt [*] that M r . Owen 
 was at Harmony. M r . Neef told M r . Maclure that he was 
 arranging to sell his farm & remove to Harmony in the 
 spring. He came on board the keelboat with his daughter, a 
 fine young woman to visit the ladies. 
 
 Our captain having secured a Pilot overnight, we started 
 at daylight, & lending all hands to the sweeps, crossed the 
 Falls in fine style. There was just enough water to make the 
 descent safe. The full distance falls short of two miles. At 
 one part a ridge of rocks crosses the stream. Here the current 
 becomes very rapid & rough & makes two sharp turns. The 
 use of the sweeps is to assist the steering. Twice the Pilot 
 called to the sweeps to stop, at part of the descent where the 
 motion & boiling up of the water would have driven them 
 out of their proper direction. Below the falls the river 
 reassumes its quiet state. We stopped to land the Pilot 
 at Shipping port, thence continued as usual. At night a 
 steamboat was heard behind us (the first that overtook us in 
 the course of our [*] voyage down) and it was determined 
 to send M r . Smith forward to Harmony for waggons to be at 
 Mount Vernon on Sunday the 22 nd . Accordingly M r . Smith 
 was put on board the steamboat as it passed from our skiff. 
 
 In consequence of a strong wind up stream we did not 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 357 
 
 reach Mount vernon till n A. m. on Monday the 2y&. We 
 there found waggons in waiting. As the weather had again 
 changed to Frost & snow, it was settled that we should remain 
 till the morning and that the ladies, children & some of the 
 gentlemen should go round and up the Wabash in the keelboat. 
 This arrangement was changed in two days, as the river froze 
 up. Young Owen could not rest a moment. He therefore 
 got a horse & rode over the same evening to Harmony. 
 
 The next morning, the waggons were loaded as early as 
 possible and half the party started for Harmony. I walked 
 and followed to see that every thing was in its place. The 
 day's journey reminded me of a march with the baggage of 
 a company of soldiers. [*] We were received with many 
 manifestations of joy by the Population, which I found 
 engrossed in the New proceedings which M r . Owen was 
 explaining to them at evening meetings. The Population was 
 about as numerous as when I left the place in June last, but 
 several had left & new families come into the town ; so 
 that I saw almost as many strange as well known faces. I 
 spent the two first days after my arrival visiting my old 
 acquaintance ; but afterwards I became busily occupied as 
 a member of a committee chosen to draw up a constitution 
 for a community to be formed out of the Preliminary 
 society. The debates in this committee & in the society 
 meetings, occupied about three weeks; after which a small 
 society of American Backwoodsmen separated from the 
 rest, & next a large one of English Emigrants. These 
 engaged for lands belonging to M r . Owen. The remainder 
 then had a misunderstanding. The most steady & decent 
 portion formed themselves into a third society, and objected 
 to [*] join in a community with the residue, but offered 
 to admit probationary members, which proposition was 
 considered offensive. 
 
 [When the weather moderated, the keelboat came 
 round & up the Wabash, having called at Shawneetown to 
 take on board the heavy baggage which had been sent 
 round from New York by sea to New Orleans, & which 
 we got five weeks after our arrival. The vessel made a 
 passage of 15 days to N. Orleans.] I left Harmony on 
 the 4th. March, at which time a proposition was under 
 
Saturday 
 
 338 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 discussion to request M r . Owen to become sole manager for 
 some time taking both parties under his guidance as proba- 
 tioners to his New System, till he should consider them 
 sufficiently well habituated in it to govern themselves. 
 
 I have since learnt by a Charleston paper that the 
 Harmony Gazette of the 22 nd . March states the society to 
 have given up idle talking, & to be now busily engaged 
 each at his proper calling. 
 
 As I had promised to take Charleston in my way back to 
 
 England, my plan of proceeding was to go by a steamboat to 
 
 New Orleans, & thence by sea round Florida to Charleston. 
 
 1826 On the 4 th . March I got a two horse waggon and crossed 
 
 to Mount Vernon. 
 
 Monday night at 10 o'clock [*] I got on board the 
 Columbia steam boat, commanded by Major Miller, and 
 reached New Orleans on the 13 th . (tuesday) 
 
 The Columbia is a large new steamboat handsomely & 
 conveniently fitted up, with the ladies cabin below. The 
 Captain an active & accommodating man. I found a few 
 gentlemen & one lady on board from Louisville. Most of 
 the gentlemen were Kentuckians. They were very fond of 
 playing at cards & backgammon & drinking spirits and 
 water, which custom I found myself obliged to adopt while 
 in their company. Another boat (the Paragon) reputed 
 the fastest boat on the river, left Louisville the day before 
 the Columbia, which passed her while taking in Cargo at 
 Henderson. The whole of the voyage down the Mississippi, 
 the great object of our Captain was to keep ahead of her 
 and reach New Orleans first. He therefore was constantly 
 forward urging on the firemen, who are in this country 
 negroes, to keep the furnaces well supplied. The rivers, as 
 the [*] northern snows were now melting & heavy rains 
 falling around us, were rapidly rising & bringing in their 
 floods great quantities of drift wood. Immense misshapen 
 logs and trees were overtaken by us in large shoals and in the 
 eddies, and in the night time the wheels lost their paddles 
 which would be splintered to pieces by coming in contact 
 with them. The Pilot at the helm wheel was in the habit 
 of ringing a small bell to stop the wheels whenever he 
 could not avoid these drifts. Snags, sawyers and planters, 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 339 
 
 appellations given to trees & logs aground in the channel of 
 the river, were often seen, but as the river was high and 
 their situations generally known, no alarm was felt at 
 them. — The banks of the river with few exceptions were 
 flat, & thickly covered with tall timber. As we proceeded 
 down the Ohio, some rocky hills & ridges little exceeding ioo 
 feet in elevation appeared here & there on the right [*] in 
 the state of Illinois. On them I remarked the cabins of 
 poor settlers, who probably sought the triple advantage of 
 rising land, a little society by river navigation, and a 
 market for cord wood for the steamboats. A cord is 
 8 ft. long & 4 ft. high & wide. Down the Ohio, except 
 in the immediate vicinity of large towns the price for 
 black & white oak is from 2 to 3$ a cord. On the Kentucky 
 side nothing was seen for many miles before we reached the 
 Mississippi but a tall thick forest in a low swamp; the timber 
 consisting for the most part of Cotton, Peccan, Hiccory, 
 black red & white oak, vine and walnut trees. The mouth 
 of the Ohio is hidden by an island, so that the supposed 
 striking appearance of the junction of the Ohio with the 
 Mississippi river is thus intercepted; and as the land is 
 flat & the trees lofty, the eye does not perceive at first any 
 great increase of w r ater. The first striking indication of our 
 being in a larger stream, was the change in the colour of the 
 water which gradually mingled itself [*] with the blacker 
 water of the Ohio, till the whole river became lime water. 
 Here I could not help gazing with some little degree of novel 
 feeling at the scene. A smooth expanse of water, to all 
 appearance a lake full of Islands, and encompassed by a wild 
 forest luxuriantly growing in an immense marsh, through 
 which I was rapidly passing in an elegant vessel and enjoying 
 the most comfortable accommodations. We occasionally 
 passed keel & flat boats floating on the water, & deeply laden 
 with corn, potatoes or cattle for the Orleans Market. Six 
 or eight tall bony & sunburnt men would be sitting on their 
 tops lounging away the five to eight w r eeks voyage they were 
 upon. The mouth of the Ohio is somewhere about 400 miles 
 below Louisville. I had left, the southern corner of Indiana 
 two days before, under the influence of a cold & wet 
 spring, its forests bare & its lands black. I now beheld 
 
340 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 bright sprouting leaves on all the young trees smiling beneath 
 the yet sappless [*] heads of their tall parents. The lively 
 green of the cane breaks which covered the banks on both 
 sides served as an additional relief to the scene. Here & there 
 some hardy woods man had cleared a small space & built a 
 log cabin on some spot which only the highest waters would 
 cover; contenting himself with having the river open to him, 
 and a plentiful supply without labour from his cows which 
 feed upon the cane at all seasons of the year. But even 
 these hardy beings rarely escape the effects of the marshy 
 atmosphere, their faces & skins denoting that they frequently 
 suffer from ague & fever. Mosquitoes abound in these 
 situations, & even disturb the native woodsman with their 
 numbers and powerful sting. 
 
 At the mouth of the Cumberland river, the Columbia 
 stopped for 6 hours to take in 200 & odd bales of cotton, each 
 bale being 8 or 9 ft. long, 6 or 8 ft. round & containing 
 from 3 to 400 lbs of cotton. This freight was stowed away 
 below, above & on both sides of the steamboat. The settle- 
 ment at the mouth [*] of the river bore a lively & thriving 
 appearance, a few low hills gently rising at a short distance 
 in the rear, and being partly cleared and looking green 
 with the young corn shoots. While we lay at this place a 
 fine & fast steam boat, called the General Jackson came down 
 the Cumberland, and the Paragon passed before us. [It is the 
 fashion to name the steamboats after the most distinguished 
 men.] We met several boats going up the stream, all deeply 
 laden & full of passengers. 
 
 From this place to Memphis a neat settlement on the 
 Chicasaw bluffs (sandy ridges which terminate in high 
 falling banks on the left bank of the river) we saw nothing 
 but a flat forest, some feet lower, as you advance a few 
 hundred yards from the river which gradually heightens its 
 banks by the annual deposits of its inundations. — [It is at 
 this place that an experiment has lately been commenced 
 to lead to the gradual emancipation of the negroes. Land 
 has been purchased & a village is forming. Slaves are 
 purchased who are to work together with a common stock. 
 The profits of their industry to be employed to purchase 
 their freedom. It is said that La Favette has subscribed 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 341 
 
 10000$ to the fund, & that Miss Wright & Mr. George 
 Flower are both contributors and managers. — As this 
 settlement is made in a slave state, the surrounding pro- 
 prietors are said to be very jealous of its interests, & throw 
 obstacles in the way of its progress. Besides all the white 
 population have so thorough a contempt & mean opinion of 
 a coloured person, that it is doubtful whether their feelings 
 may not operate to defeat a practical step towards emancipa- 
 tion.] At the mouth of White river on the right bank, we 
 stopped to take on wood & land a passenger. Here there is 
 a small settlement of two or three families. I entered into 
 conversation with one man who told me he was born in 
 Georgia, raised in Tennessee, had lived where he was two 
 years, & intended in another year to go west into the red 
 river country. He had a wife, or a woman [*] that acted 
 as such, (for in these countries changes & exchanges are 
 easily made) and a heap of young children. 
 
 In many conversations that I had I found the tide of 
 emigration, was generally from the southern & eastern 
 states, first to the banks of the Ohio or Mississippi, then 
 into Illinois, Indiana, or Ohio state, and thence again west 
 up the Arkansaw or Missouri, or into the red river country. 
 The steam navigation, & the trade for the raw materials 
 for manufacturing, ensure the migrating woodsman a supply 
 of cash & the boundless & fertile soil around him & the 
 domestic labour of his family, secure to him a full supply 
 of all which the rude habits of his life give him a desire 
 for. Whiskey & tobacco are cheap, and powder & lead 
 easily procured. He therefore freely indulges in these great 
 stimuli, chewing & drinking at all hours, and rarely passing 
 a day without his gun in his hand. They have little or no 
 moral feeling in the composition of their [*] character, and 
 if we except their fear of the law, and their attachment 
 to the American Constitution, which they belief (without 
 understanding) to be the safeguard of their freedom, I 
 should suppose their minds were under no influence but 
 that of their appetites. 
 
 The river winds continually in every direction down this 
 immense vale which is more or less subject to its inundations 
 in the months of April, May & June, from two to 300 miles 
 
342 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 in breadth, particularly on its western side where there are 
 extensive lakes. In some places among the Islands and at the 
 bends of the river its breadth is more than a mile, occasionally 
 nearly two miles. The banks being of the finest & softest 
 soil is continually crumbling down, spreading out in tongues 
 on one side & rounding away in hollow places on the other. 
 Large trees are seen with their heads above the water, denot- 
 ing their late fall ; others with their bare roots tottering 
 and awaiting their inevitable fate ; while tall & slender 
 shrubberies [*] are every where rapidly arising to shade 
 and fortify the newly formed shores of this inland ocean. 
 
 In one part we passed what the boatman called the new 
 cut off where the river, after a process of wearing the 
 bank away into a deep elbow forced its way across the 
 istmus into its next bend, shortening its course by a distance 
 of 18 miles and forming another large Island in the midst 
 of its waters. — At sunset a thick vapour rises & floats over 
 the surface of the river, frequently obliging the boats to lay 
 too during the night. 
 
 The gentlemen on board passed their time at cards & 
 backgammon, and frequently had disputes about the game. 
 One day they abused one another violently, and two of them 
 struck & threw chairs at one another. This dispute however 
 was amicably settled, & tranquility resulted from it during 
 the remainder of the voyage. I got on the best terms with 
 them ; so much so that they hoped we should hereafter meet 
 again, and two [*] who left us at Matches, and followed to 
 New Orleans in two or three days, met me there at the Hotel 
 like old friends. This was a pleasant circumstance to a 
 stranger, and I judge from it that a traveller among the 
 western people, particularly the Kentuckians, should he be 
 a man of education but liberal & accommodating in his 
 habits & opinions, will have daily reason to say that they are 
 extremely hospitable. But they have their passions & their 
 prejudices & bad habits. The first they are accustomed to 
 indulge, the second they are less sensible of than a traveller, 
 and they have are privileged at home in the gratification 
 of the third. 
 
 It was my custom to seat myself on a bale of cotton on the 
 top near the pilot, and enjoy the current of air, & the unusual 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 343 
 
 scenery around me. We rapidly got into a warmer atmosphere, 
 under a clearer sky and amidst greener forests ; but a dead 
 flatness spread in all directions. The variety however was 
 considerable. At one time the [*] shades among the trees 
 caught the eye; at another the immense drifts of wood led 
 the mind to speculate upon the growth & decay of vegetable 
 matter, & the great quantities of timber thus annually sent 
 into the Mexican gulf ; at a third the attention was directed 
 to a steamboat approaching, or some solitary flat boats 
 which we were rapidly overtaking and passing by. 
 
 Natches is the last place on the river bank which we 
 passed, & which stands elevated above the dead level. The 
 bank is about ioo ft. high, and apparently entirely of sand. 
 The town stands on an extensive flat, and contains a large 
 population. Down by the water side are a miserable collection 
 of wooden houses in which the boatmen reside. There it is 
 that a degraded state of morals is to be found. From 
 the top of the bank the eye has nothing to look at but the 
 winding river and the tops of the trees. 
 
 As our stop was short I had not time to see the town, which 
 I am told [*] contains many agreeable inhabitants and good 
 buildings. The negroes & quadroons (or mixed race) were 
 very numerous on the bank. I there fell in with two — car- 
 penter and Tanner who had left Harmony. They told me 
 business was brisk, and the carpenters intended making 
 some money to carry them to New Orleans, & perhaps to 
 visit Scotland & some parts of the Old Country. 
 
 I learnt that one of my fellow voyagers was a member 
 of the Kentucky legislature, another the son of a landed 
 proprietor, one a young lawyer going to look out for 
 business in Florida, another, a Virginian from the back 
 parts going to settle there, & another a lawyer (who had 
 been a play-actor), going to Pensacola. The gentleman 
 we landed at White river was going some distance up that 
 river ; he was a young doctor. 
 
 W T hen least expected settlements spring up, and west of 
 the Mississippi and in the Missouri, there are more white 
 settlers (already there & annually removing there) than 
 in Europe they have any conception of. [*] 
 
 Below Natches the river banks on both sides are 
 
344 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 more thickly settled. As they are more elevated & only 
 covered by the highest waters much more land is in 
 cultivation, and although compared with the extent of 
 country the river winds through the part cleared is but 
 trifling, yet lying on the edge of the water, it serves to vary 
 the scene and gives a slight idea of the richness of the land. 
 
 As we advanced the habitations became more numerous, 
 we overtook more boats, the trees looked greener, the corn 
 crops farther advanced, the slaves out in the fields preparing 
 the ground for cotton & sugar. Levees or embankments 
 from 3 to 5 & 6 feet high & as many thick extended on both 
 sides the river. For the last ioo miles before we reached 
 New Orleans the line of communication from one farm or 
 plantation to another was scarcely broken, and in many places 
 were well fashioned stone & brick houses and regularly 
 planned rows of buildings for the [*] slaves employed on 
 the sugar plantations. The usual form was a wide street of 
 small brick or painted wooden houses with the overseer's 
 house at one end & the sugar house at the other, extending 
 towards the river, and about the middle of the plantation, and 
 some distance from the proprietor's house which is usually 
 surrounded by a few trees. The plantation is surrounded 
 by rail fences, and in the marsh or swamp behind, tower 
 the thick forests of Cypress trees which are covered with 
 a brownish weed which thickly spread over their misshapen 
 tops giving a dead appearance to them. This weed is 
 called Spanish moss, and is much used for stuffing mat- 
 trasses, being of a soft & cool nature, and supposed to 
 be very wholesome. 
 
 By the laws of the State of Louisiana the lands on the 
 river bank are divided into lots of a certain extent of river 
 bank & extending thence straight into the marsh & woods 
 behind, so that each holder of a lot has his proper portion 
 of [*] embankment or Levee to keep in repair. 
 
 The vale of the Mississippi seems to have been formerly 
 entirely flooded at the rainy season or in the early summer 
 months when the northern snows & ice melt. But the river 
 bringing in its troubled waters a great quantity of light 
 soil which as it spread & stagnated over this extensive 
 vale, settled and gradually raised its surface, some seasons 
 
MACDOXALD DIARIES 345 
 
 left considerable portions of its banks dry. These were 
 occupied & defended by levees by the first settlers, who 
 gradually encreased in numbers, untill their properties were 
 formed into a connected line of embankment; leaving the 
 river to spread through the woods around them. 
 
 The channel of the river is very deep, and the working of 
 the currents & eddies below are marked by the boiling up of 
 the water as it rolls on at the rate of from two to three miles 
 an hour. [*] No scheme has yet been thought of which could 
 oppose the progress of the river in washing in its banks, at its 
 different windings, and as this process is very rapid, and in 
 the neighbourhood of New Orleans a small quantity of great 
 value; rich persons have frequently in a few years lost a 
 great part of their fortune by the river changing its course. 
 
 The mouth of the red river is about a quarter of a mile 
 wide, having an island near it ; but it is very deep. It is navi- 
 gable for steam boats a great way. It is from a point high up 
 this river, that the land journey to Mexico is commenced, thus 
 avoiding the marshes which extend to the shores of the Gulf. 
 
 We passed several boats floating down with cotton, and 
 some ships which had been towed by steamboats up the river to 
 receive the cotton & sugar from the very bank of the plantation. 
 
 We passed many steamboats & small towns, and I felt the 
 sensation of coming out [*] of the retirement of the country 
 into the bustle of a city. The weather became warm, the 
 trees were almost in full leaf, and the Cypress & wild 
 herbs of the forest perfumed the evening breezes. 
 
 It was becoming dark when we saw the roofs of houses, 
 the masts of shipping & the long iron flues of numerous 
 steamboats, crowding the side of the Levee. — The Paragon 
 had got in a few hours before, as our paddles had been 
 so broken that we had to stop several times to mend 
 them. The General Jackson came in a few hours after us. 
 
 It was too late to quit the boat that evening, therefore 
 after a short walk in the dark through two or three narrow 
 streets, I returned on board for the night. 
 
 The following morning after breakfast I landed and took Tuesday 14 th . 
 up my lodging at the Planters Hotel (Mr. Elkin) a large March l826 
 house the resort usually of Bachelors. I called and delivered 
 my letter from M r . Owen to M r . [MS blank] who was 
 
346 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 M r . Rapp's agent & has now become [*] M r . Owen's. He & 
 his partner are druggists. He afterwards invited me to tea 
 at his father in law's D r . Rogers where I dined once & found 
 his wife & daughter amiable women, & himself a very intelli- 
 gent person. At the Planters' I fell in with M r . Thomas from 
 New York, who introduced me to a variety of gentlemen; 
 some merchants & others planters from the neighbour- 
 hood. — As the house was crowded I was at first put into a 
 small room where there were three more beds, but upon 
 application to the clerk he removed me to another where 
 I had but one companion who proved to be a very respectable 
 gentleman, a judge from Feliciana, a town in the State, & 
 who once stood candidate for the governorship. We became 
 very friendly, and he gave me a pressing invitation to 
 visit him. I learnt that his wife was a very amiable 
 person, & that he had a fine family & resided in a beautiful 
 country. — I likewise met a Philadelphia Friend, and two 
 gentlemen with whom I had crossed the ocean last summer 
 in the Canada. [My fellow travellers on board the Columbia 
 introduced me to their acquaintance.] Thus Every day I 
 had one or more [*] companions to visit the town & neigh- 
 bourhood with. [It is frequently the practice of the 
 passengers to remain on board the steamboats in which they 
 descend the river, and as the accommodations are good, it 
 is sometimes more convenient to do so, than to land and 
 put up at a crowded hotel.] 
 
 The boarding is 2$ a day. Black or coloured slaves 
 wait upon you, and at Elkin's the female slaves dress so 
 gaudily, that I sometimes fancied a resemblance to an 
 eastern entertainment as I sat at the dinner table. But 
 the house is a very inconvenient one, and the attendance 
 irregular. — The weather was to me extremely oppressive, the 
 ther r . ranging from 76 to above 8o° with little wind. 
 
 The town lies on the left bank of the river, & 5 or 6 feet 
 below the level of the high rises of the river which are about 
 the months of April, May & June. — The Levee which 
 protects the town is covered with shells & small stones 
 and made into a hard terrace, behind which runs a wide 
 road, separated from the first street or row of houses by 
 an open space of a mile in length but only two or three 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 347 
 
 hundred ft wide. On this ground stand the custom house, 
 
 the large stone market houses & some warehouses. During 
 
 the first half of the year trade is very brisk, the Levee 
 
 being covered with bales of [*] cotton, casks of sugar & New Orleans 
 
 tobacco, coffee & rice, carts driving in every direction with 
 
 goods, and shipping of all descriptions lying by the river 
 
 bank. While I remained at New Orleans, there were never 
 
 less than 12 or 15 steamboats lying there, and several times 
 
 in the course of the day, the guns of those arriving and 
 
 departing were heard in every part of the town. Two 
 
 steam boats are in constant employ towing vessels the sailing 
 
 vessels in & out of the river, its mouth being 100 miles 
 
 below the city. 
 
 Above the steamboats lye a great number of keel & 
 flat boats & other small craft, which have brought raw 
 materials & provisions of all kinds down the river. The 
 cargoes of some boats are disposed of whole sale, while the 
 tenants of the others are occupied retailing out their goods. 
 
 The river at this place is about a mile wide, and 
 extremely deep. Within a few feet of the levee the water 
 is 70 ft. deep, and as it rolls along at the rate of 3 miles an 
 hour, in eddies & boiling up, it is quite muddy [*] and 
 is constantly undermining the part of the bank against 
 which the force of the current strikes. At present the 
 current strikes the right bank of the river a mile above 
 the town, wearing it rapidly away; and thence crossing 
 over runs against the left bank at the lower extremity of 
 the city, which it is gradually forcing in, in spite of the 
 usual attempts to protect the bank. Within a few years 
 the city has become possessed of several acres of valuable 
 land which the river threw up as it receded above the town 
 towards the opposite bank, sweeping away the house & a 
 considerable part of the lands belonging to a widow lady. 
 
 Vessels very rarely anchor in the river on account of 
 its depth, which likewise prevents the erection of wharves or 
 quais. Large timbers and planks are substituted, as temporary 
 stages for loading & unloading the vessels. On the opposite 
 bank is the powder magazine, & place where the shipping 
 are repaired. A Columbian Brig of War lay there while 
 I was in New Orleans. [*] As New Orleans was both the 
 
348 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 possession of the French & Spaniards before being sold 
 to the United States, the styles of building are very various. 
 Facing the levee, are a square with a Catholic church in 
 it, a large barrack of stone, and the Arsenal inclosed within 
 a stone wall, all built by the Spaniards, and a row of 
 houses, shops below & dwelling rooms above, in the 
 Spanish and Moorish style of architecture. The streets 
 run parallel & at right angles to the river. Only one is 
 paved (Charters street) The rest are of earth, and 
 consequently almost impassable in rainy weather. But 
 every street has its two footways protected from the road 
 by wooden gutters. Since M r . Jefferson purchased this 
 state from the French, a great many french left it, and as 
 many Spaniards as could dispose of their property. Americans 
 seeking their fortunes pushed in, and became active in 
 business. It is remarkable that not a Spaniard or Frenchman 
 has any concern in any of the many steamboats which belong 
 to this city & run on the river ; or is, indeed much employed 
 in the active commerce now carrying on. — At first the 
 principal [*] public offices were filled by frenchmen, who 
 made the Americans rather dissatisfied by their lukewarm 
 treatment of all their proposed improvements. This has had 
 the effect of throwing many french out of office. An 
 attempt to get the streets paved, succeeded so far as to have 
 the principal one so done; But as the stones must all be 
 brought by sea from the northern States, it is probable 
 that several years will elapse before all the [others] are 
 paved, or macadamized which many consider a better plan. 
 
 The state house is a small old building; much is said 
 of building a new one. 
 
 There is a law in this state which renders all marriages 
 between whites and persons of colour or quadroons (as all 
 are called whose blood is in any way proved to be tainted 
 with the negroe race) illegal, and while I was there another 
 was passed, entirely prohibitting the introduction of slaves. 
 This latter law was made in consequence of so many slaves 
 of the most worthless & troublesome character having been 
 brought into the city for sale. 
 
 Many of the quadroon [*] families are rich, and the 
 females handsome. As the whites are the lords of the 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 349 
 
 land, the quadroon females consider it an honor to be 
 connected with them, and as marriage is forbidden, most 
 of them live as the companions of the white men, proving 
 true to them, as long as they are well treated. This is the 
 French fashion, but as the relative proportion of the 
 French & Americans diminishes, it is probable that this 
 demoralizing law will be altered & modified. 
 
 D r . Rogers informed me that July, August, September & 
 October, were the unhealthy months of the year ; then cold 
 winds from the north west and a hot sun, produce fevers. At 
 other seasons of the year the city is remarkably healthy. 
 During the hottest season the ther r . rarely rises above 
 94 . December & January are the winter months; but 
 frost & snow are very rarely seen. Seven years ago a 
 severe frost in the months of Jany & February, destroyed 
 all the orange & lemon trees in the state. Young trees were 
 immediately afterwards planted, and this spring a few are 
 beginning to bear. — During the unhealthy [*] months 
 many persons leave the city, and every thing is at rest. 
 
 The city is rapidly extending with stores & brick 
 houses, (the residences of americans,) up the river bank. 
 
 At the back of the city, which lies some feet lower than 
 that part which borders on the river, there extends the 
 marsh & cypress forest intersected by a creek. Into this 
 marsh the waters from the city are drained. A basin has been 
 formed and a canal connecting it with the creek. There 
 is a project for connecting the basin likewise with the 
 river. The creek which runs into Lake Pontchartrain, has 
 a wooden peir & battery at its mouth, to which there is 
 a road from the city. This is the direct communication 
 into the State of Alabama & to the seat of the general 
 government, and is a portion of the course of inland 
 navigation which it is proposed to extend from S*. Augustine 
 across the Floridas to the Mississippi. The greater number 
 of houses in the back streets of the city are of wood & only 
 one story high ; and the people free negroes & quadroons. [*] 
 A few years ago the levee many miles above the city, being 
 neglected, gave way. The river spread through the marshy 
 forest and filled the back streets w T here it remained 3 or 
 4 ft. deep for many weeks. On the falling of the river 
 
35€ INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 the water ran off & dried up, and a most sickly season 
 followed. Great penalties are now attached to any neglect 
 in the repair of the embankment. 
 
 There are two theaters in the city, a french & an 
 American. The former is large, and handsome and in 
 every respect superior to the latter, which has only been 
 built three or four years. But as there is every prospect that 
 the English Americans will daily encrease in numbers, while 
 the natives of other nations will remove, the french theater 
 will be badly supported. 
 
 After the war in France, and the revolution in St. Do- 
 mingo, many french families came to this place; but the 
 society of the Americans, the Constitution of the States, and 
 the climate, have all tended to drive as many of them 
 away, as could afford to remove. 
 
 The Levee is a place of lounge for strangers, and 
 it is the common practice, to ramble from steam boat to 
 steam boat [*] The captains therefore have their cabins in 
 fine order, & spirits & water at the service of those who come 
 on board to admire their boats, I saw several very large 
 boats superbly fitted up. Among the number were the George 
 Washington, Philadelphia, Feliciana, Hibernia, & Caledonia, 
 all remarkably swift boats and constructed on so large a scale 
 as to afford accommodations which quite surprise a stranger. 
 
 The sale rooms for slaves are in the principal streets, & 
 open into them. Passing along one day I entered a room 
 round which I saw about 20 black men women & children 
 seated. I quietly examined their countenances, which bore 
 on them a dull expression of carelessness. A middle aged 
 French lady was examining one of the women whom she 
 made stand up and turn round. She then looked at her 
 hands, felt her arms & shoulders, and asked her if she could 
 wash, sew & cook. The seller was a tall stout well dressed 
 American. He was in conversation with two or three 
 strangers, to whom I heard him say pointing to a part of 
 the room where three children and two females sat ; you 
 shall have all five for a bill for 1000$ [*] payable next 
 January. While this bargaining was going on, some of the 
 slaves seemed to be without thoughts or feelings on the 
 subject, while others endeavoured to appear to advantage. 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 351 
 
 I was introduced to a young man an assistant judge in 
 the city. He was remarkably attentive to me. We walked 
 together about the town, & crossed the river in a ferry boat 
 and visited a sugar plantation. I drank tea at his house and 
 was introduced to his wife & mother in law. He likewise 
 introduced me to a captain of Engineers and some officers 
 of the line. I once went to a morning parade of two 
 companies in the barrack yard. The men were tall, stout & 
 steady in the ranks. They exercised correctly, but in every 
 movement I thought them too slow. I learnt that the rest 
 of the regt. was stationed high up the Mississippi at a 
 Fort above S*. Louis. The captain of the Engineers, has 
 the direction of Forts erecting at [*] the mouth of the 
 river and on the shores of the lake. Fie gave me a letter 
 of introduction to his lieutenant who superintends the 
 work constructing at the mouth of the river. 
 
 The exchange coffee house is the principal resort of 
 the french. Here I found newspapers. — There is a great 
 fancy in most of the cities & towns for oyster suppers, and 
 a traveller whatever may be his taste, can as little avoid 
 them as the system of grog drinking. 
 
 I heard that the Duke of Saxe Weimar had been 
 living for the last six months in the city at a boarding 
 house, and that he was much in French society. As far 
 as I could learn, his talents are not so highly rated 
 as his genteel & social manners. From New Orleans he 
 intended going to St. Louis & through the Western States. 
 
 A gentleman planter who had served in the militia 
 during the last war, accompanied [*] me in a hack to 
 visit the famous lines, where the British received a check. 
 As he was on duty in them, he explained the situation 
 completely to me. The lines were about four miles 
 below the city. The road to them runs by the side of 
 the Levee, the other or left hand side of the road being 
 occupied in the front by fine gardens and country houses 
 and in the rear by plantations as far back as the cypress 
 marshy forest. The right end of the lines touched the 
 levee & was rounded into a redoubt. The left ran into the 
 wood & marsh. The line was nearly straight and about half 
 a mile long. It consisted of a thin parapet & small ditch in 
 
352 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 front, which filled with water as soon as cut, being in part 
 the ditch to drain the land. The whole was quickly finished 
 by the militia which General Jackson has [sic] collected in 
 haste. These were spread along in rear of the lines, where they 
 were a few [*] days previous to Sir Edward Packenham's 
 attack, and after it until they heard of his embarkation, when 
 they withdrew. A few pieces of Artillery were placed at each 
 end, and in a few places along the line. On the opposite side 
 of the river, a work something similar was raised, though 
 not so well made or defended. It likewise extended from 
 the river across a plantation to the wood on the right, and 
 a few men were sent across the river to man it. 
 
 The Americans w r ere for three or four days quite at a 
 loss to guess why they had not been attacked, & the wild 
 backwoodsmen began to think the British feared their 
 rifles. It was in the month of Jany and cold frosty 
 weather, when early one morning just as the Eastern horizon 
 was lighting up, the sentries placed a few hundred yards in 
 front on the flat arable land, fired their rifles and retired. It 
 was then perceived from [*] within the lines that two 
 columns were advancing, the one column along the borders 
 of the forest, and the other from behind some farm 
 buildings under cover of the river bank. The most expert 
 markmen were placed in front on the step in rear of the 
 parapet, while the remainder of the militia stood below 
 prepared to load & hand them rifles as fast as they fired. 
 
 As the columns approached rapidly, a fire of rifles and 
 field artillery was soon opened upon them, and day throwing 
 light around, its destructive fire was distinctly seen from the 
 lines. The redoubt on the right was entered by the British, but 
 they were afterwards driven back with great loss. The 
 column on the left advanced steadily without firing, carrying 
 fascines or bundles of sticks to throw into the ditch; but 
 the loss experienced in killed & w r ounded was so great that 
 they could not reach it in compact numbers. Many however 
 jumped into the ditch, & were shot [*] endeavouring to 
 scramble up the parapet ; while others when they reached the 
 edge of the ditch cried out for quarter & threw themselves 
 flat on the ground, where they remained till the column 
 finally retired and left them prisoners. — In the mean time 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 3S3 
 
 success had attended another part of the British forces, 
 which had crossed the river in boats, and taken the lines 
 on the right bank, where they awaited orders to advance. 
 
 But the loss sustained by the British induced them to 
 retire after burying the dead. 
 
 General Jackson had experienced some want of zeal or 
 suspected as much & inclination among the inhabitants of 
 New Orleans to aid him in his defensive arrangements. This 
 induced him to declare martial law in the place and enforce 
 the daily attendance at parade [*] in the city of every 
 inhabitant bound by the terms of the militia law. — Several 
 persons who absented themselves were brought into the 
 ranks by files of soldiers. The rich & proud planters 
 did not much relish thus being compelled to drill in the 
 ranks with all sorts of people; and a strong feeling of 
 dislike was felt towards General Jackson whose conduct 
 was characterized as being extremely arbitrary. All would 
 however have terminated to his satisfaction, had martial 
 law ceased the moment it was known that the British 
 had embarked ; but the General by continuing it a few 
 days longer induced his enimies to bring an action against 
 him, in the U. States Court, and he was cast in damages 
 which the people offered to pay but he refused to al- 
 low. — The wounded men were brought into the city. The 
 officers were invited out, as soon as they began to 
 recover from their wounds; but as the warm weather 
 had commenced, and a vessel lay in the river waiting 
 for them, they quitted the scene of their disaster as 
 soon as all could with safety [*] be carried on board. 
 
 As I could not find any vessel bound direct to Charleston, 
 the trade of these two places being very similar, I determined 
 to go by the way of Havana, with which place a considerable 
 trade is carried on. — M r . [MS blank] got me a letter to 
 Mess rs . Castillo & Black, & M r . Brock gave me one to Colin 
 Mitchel. As I was advised to get a passport, I called on 
 the Spanish consul, who asked my name & that of the 
 vessel I was to go in. Not having quite decided, I left 
 my name and went away to make enquiries for the one 
 which would first leave the port. On my return the 
 consul inserted the name of the vessel (Brig William) & I 
 
354 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 signed the passport printed in Spanish which was already 
 filled up, without reading it. I afterwards found that 
 I was described as a native of the United States, which 
 error though it did not appear to me at first of any 
 consequence, induced [*] me while in Havana to be very 
 cautious not to attract the slightest notice, people's minds 
 being in such a state of distrust and suspense. 
 3826 March 24th. I left New Orleans on the evening of the 24th. in the 
 Friday b r ig William, Capt n . Crowell, and in company with the 
 
 New York packet ship Talma, & a f rench merchant ship ; we 
 were towed down the river by a steamboat. — At daylight in 
 the morning we were near the mouth [of] the river, which 
 divides into two or three narrow channels between sand 
 banks where vessels are often wrecked or injured. [About 
 150 miles up the river there is another channel at a bend of 
 the river, which runs into a large lake to the South West & 
 thence into the gulf.] The land around is flat marshy & 
 covered with long grass & bushes. On the right bank is a 
 small settlement where the pilots reside. The buildings are 
 of wood supported above the water by strong piles. Some 
 years since the buildings at this [*] place were washed away 
 during a hurricane, which drove the sea in. This port is 
 called the Balise, the name given to bouyes which mark the 
 channel. — As the wind was fair, and we set sail as soon as a 
 pilot came on board & the tow-rope was thrown of f , I could not 
 go on shore to deliver to the Lieutenant the letter of intro- 
 duction from his captain & see the sight of the intended fort. 
 On board the brig were four Spaniards, one Italian 
 of the name of Philippe, a M r . Aldridge, a New England 
 trader, a gentleman going to Key West, a station at the 
 southern extremity of Florida, Captain Chase going to 
 take command of a merchant ship lying in the bay of 
 Havana, and a Kentuckian who had the deck covered with 
 150 fat hogs, which he was taking to market. Planks had 
 been lashed across from bulwark to bulwark, and these 
 served as a temporary deck to walk over the hogs. — Let 
 no one, [*] if he can help it go in a vessel that has hogs on 
 board. Their grunting, fighting, & stench are abomi- 
 nable. — As too small a quantity of water had been put on 
 board for them, thev were two or three days without 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 355 
 
 drinking. This made them extremely savage, they rioted 
 day & night, & frequently destroyed one another. About 20 
 were thrown overboard dead. — The Italian had some 
 hundred hogsheads of tobacco on board. I asked him how 
 he could gain by taking tobacco to Havana. He replied 
 that more tobacco came from Havana than grew in it, and 
 that it was a practise to mix together the tobacco of 
 America & Cuba. — The Spaniards seemed not disposed to 
 let out their real sentiments, but I could see that they were 
 republicans, though inhabitants of Havana. [The distance 
 from the balise or mouth of Mississippi to Havana is 
 between 5 & 600 miles.] The wind remained fair the three 
 first days that we were out, but light. It afterwards blew 
 fresh from the East & south east. The fifth day we made 
 the Tortugas, small low islands near Cape Florida with a 
 lighthouse on one of them. The following [*] day the wind Friday 31st. 
 changed to the west and we crossed over the gulph stream. M »rch 
 On Friday morning at day break we made Cuba, a few miles 
 east of Havana and just succeeded against the stream in 
 tacking into the harbour about 9 o'clock in the morning. 
 The country appeared hilly & covered with low woods. 
 In the distance I saw the peaks of mountains, quite a novel 
 sight to an eye long accustomed to the flats & marshes 
 of the Western country & Mississippi. An old castle stood 
 near the water's edge, w r hich reminded me of the Old 
 World, and intimated that I was approaching some of its 
 dependent settlements. — The entrance of the harbour is 
 narrow. On the left project high rocks against which the 
 ocean breaks. Their smaller crevices are filled with 
 masonry, and the whole mass supports a solidly built fort 
 called the Moro Castle. From this signals are made, and all 
 vessels hailed as they go in or out of the harbour. The 
 castle is connected by a line of [*] fortifications to a large 
 work called the Cabanas, which stands on the ground which 
 rises immediately behind the castle, looking down upon the 
 harbour & the town. Beyond this work towards the east 
 is a redoubt, built to occupy in advance the ridge of land on 
 which the Cabanas is built and by which it & the Castle 
 might be approached. [In the Moro Castle there are 
 dungeons in which some state prisoners are confined. An 
 
356 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 underground communication is said to exist between this 
 work, & the Cabanas. So great is the mystery kept up 
 respecting the works of defence, that I have heard some of 
 the natives maintain that there is a communication from 
 the town to the Cabanas under the harbour! Should such 
 be the case, the Thames Tunnel would be a bagatelle 
 compared to it.] Entering the harbour the bank on the left 
 is steep up to the outworks & walls of the Cabanas. On the 
 right is a sandy beach with reefs of rocks, on which stand 
 a Fort. Passing in you come to the town on the right of 
 the bay which spreads into a fine sheet of water two miles 
 broad. The wharves are of wood, and defended by the 
 batteries on the town walls behind them. Vessels of war & 
 trade from many nations lie here in crowds. At the time of 
 our arrival there were English, American, Spanish & French 
 men of war in the bay, and merchant vessels from America 
 & all parts of Europe.— The bay is surrounded [*] by an 
 amphitheater of hills adorned by plantations, woods, & scat- 
 tered Palm trees. The town is enclosed within strong forti- 
 fications, and on a rising ground about two miles to the 
 west of it, stands conspicuously a large & strong fort. The 
 subburbs are extensive, having fine gardens, full of the rich 
 vegetation of a tropical climate ; for Havana is just within 
 the tropics, being in about 22°-30 north lat^e. 
 
 We anchored about the middle of the harbour between 
 the wharves and the high works of the Cabanas. Soon 
 after the Captain of the Port, a tall swarthy Spaniard, 
 came on board. Our passports were collected & the brig's 
 bill of lading, and after posting a sentry on the deck 
 he left us. I now learnt that I could not get on shore 
 without a permit from the Governor which would be 
 given to any respectable inhabitant that might become 
 security for my good conduct while in the island. This 
 unexpected news embarrassed me [*] considerably at 
 first; but as several strangers & merchants clerks came on 
 board, to whom the other passengers were entrusting their 
 letters, I gave notice to a clerk of Mess rs . Castillo & Black 
 that I had a letter for them and begged they would get me 
 a permit to land. This request they very kindly complied 
 with immediately, & I got on shore about 2 o'clock in the 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 357 
 
 afternoon taking a few articles in my pockets. I put up 
 at a boarding house kept by a M«. Howard, overlooking 
 part of the Harbour, exposed to the sea breeze and in a 
 short street near the square in which the Governor's palace 
 stands. — The boarders were American & English traders & 
 sea captains. They were just sitting down to table when 
 I got in. I seated myself by the side of Cap tn . Forbes 
 from New York, who commands a fine merchant ship the 
 Fabius, which had just completed taking in cargo for Cadiz. 
 He introduced me to several gentlemen at table, and after 
 dinner took me to the coffee house on the Square, & on 
 board his ship. — Some of my fellow passengers put up 
 at [*] the same house, so that between these acquaintances 
 and the persons to whom Cap tn . Forbes introduced [me] I 
 always had a companion with whom either to sit or make 
 excursions about the place. I delivered my letters to Colin 
 Mitchel & Castillo & Black, and had invitations from them 
 to dinner. [The day after my landing I got a permit to 
 land my baggage, which was only slightly inspected as I 
 passed the custom house at the door of which the porter 
 stopped his cart.] 
 
 During my stay in Havana which was only a fort- 
 night, the weather was very fine. A few scattered clouds 
 occasionally appeared & one forenoon there were some slight 
 showers. The mornings were quite calm, close & oppressive 
 till 9 or 10 o'clock, then an Easterly breeze sprang up with 
 sea breezes which were delightfully refreshing, and the 
 evenings were tolerably cool. The ther r . ranged from 78 
 to 84 . One morning very early I took a boat & went to 
 bathe under the rocks at the entrance of the harbour, but 
 I found the water so much warmer than I had anticipated 
 that I did not repeat it. — The natives however had not yet 
 commenced seabathing, the water being still too cold for 
 them, and I was told that it was considered unhealthy 
 at this season. 
 
 The commerce of this place is very considerable, exchang- 
 ing the fruits of the island & coffee & sugar & tobacco for 
 provissions & manufactured [*] goods. The wharves are so 
 crowded with vessels, that they are obliged to load & unload 
 over the bows, and you can hardly pass along for the piles 
 
358 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 of goods & carts passing & repassing. — The population I 
 heard estimated at from 130 to 140,000, half white & half 
 coloured persons the greater portion of whom are slaves. 
 This calculation is by no means certain as so much secrecy 
 prevails relative to all general information ; but although the 
 town within the works does not cover a great space, yet as 
 the streets are extremely narrow, the suburbs, extensive, and 
 as the coloured people particularly live crowded together, the 
 above estimate may possibly be within bounds. 
 
 Several Spanish reg ts . are here in garrison, and 
 barracks are seen in all parts of the town. The sound 
 of drums & trumpets, the parades, the armed parties 
 marching from post to post, the sentries at the gates, the 
 salutes & morning & evening guns from the men of war in 
 the bay, and the military costume seen in every street, were 
 numerous & striking contrasts to the sounds & objects in 
 the cities & towns of the United States, and after a long 
 lapse of time, my memory again vividly represented to me 
 many [*] of the former scenes of my changeful life. — 
 
 Having so suddenly changed from the cold of the 
 northern parts of the Western country, to the close atmos- 
 phere of Louisiana & the hot sun of Cuba, I felt much 
 overcome & exhausted ; but as it was my intention to sail in 
 the first Charleston vessel, I lost no time in looking around 
 me. I had been for some time brushing up my Spanish, and 
 I now found it very agreeable as well as convenient to be able 
 to converse with the natives. The heat, however, deterred 
 me, as well as my short stay, from seeking society; but I 
 visited the churches, the Treasury, theater, and lounged 
 through the streets & shops, observing the manners & cus- 
 toms of the place. — The houses are, with few exceptions, of 
 stone, whitewashed, & sometimes painted. The ground floor 
 is for shops & stores, and the upper one with balconies 
 serves for the dwelling appartments. [There are however 
 several exceptions to this arrangement, and in some streets 
 there are many private houses the parlours & sitting rooms 
 being on the ground floor.] All the windows and doors are 
 large, the former having iron bars and shutters to protect 
 them. Except the busy merchants & the slaves, few inhabi- 
 tants are seen in the streets or windows except [*] very early 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 359 
 
 in the morning or at sunset, when the ladies either sit in 
 their windows, or drive out in their volantes, sometimes 
 accompanied by the gentlemen, who however, for the most 
 part, walk out with one another, or drink, smoke, play at 
 billiards or gamble in the coffee houses. [The volanty is 
 a sort of gig with a cover to it. The wheels are extremely 
 high, and the shafts long. The body of the gig hangs in 
 front of the wheels, and the driver dressed in a gaudy attire 
 with extremely large & curiously shaped jack boots & spurs 
 sits on the horse. The front of the gig is hidden by a piece 
 of grey or blue cloth stretched tight, and fastened from the 
 foot board to the top. But the sides are quite open and 
 expose the ladies to view from head to foot. They therefore 
 are very particular in their dress, wearing fine white muslin 
 dresses, their heads finely curled & ornamented with combs 
 (hats or caps being entirely prohibited) and their feet and 
 ancles, whose smallness & neat shape they are proud to 
 display, are dressed out with beautiful shoes & stockings.] 
 The forti[fi] cations of the town consist of large ram- 
 parts with bastions & broad dry ditches through which run a 
 small stream ready to lay them at any time under water. The 
 scarps are of masonry from 30 to 40 ft. high. There are 
 five gates to go out to the suburbs. Two of the gateways 
 they were rebuilding; but the works in general appeared dirty 
 and neglected. The arsenal is on the left by the side of the 
 bay and without the town wall. Beyond it on a knoll 
 projecting into the bay stands a fort. — The Paseo or public 
 drive, is without the wall and near a large circular building 
 of wood, for bull fights. On Sundays & festival days, a 
 short time before dark, should the weather be fine, the 
 paseo [*] is seen crowded with volantes driving up and 
 down in regular succession, filled with ladies in their evening 
 dresses. A few dragoons are stationed along the middle 
 of the drive, to prevent one volante passing another or 
 crossing the road, at each end of which there is a semi circle 
 round which all must pass in turn. The side walks are 
 occupied by the gentlemen, who assemble like the ladies 
 purposely to look & be looked at. Though such is the 
 motive which usually brings people to assemblies, walks & 
 drives, yet the Paseo at Havana is remarkable as being a 
 
360 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 formal display in public, the purpose of which the very 
 arrangement plainly declares. [As soon as it is quite 
 dark, the ladies return home or visit their friends. Sometimes 
 they continue for an hour or two driving through the dif- 
 ferent streets. The streets are so narrow and the shafts of 
 the volantes so long that in order to turn they are frequently 
 obliged to go as far as the crossing of streets. All the 
 doors & windows being large, a person standing in the 
 streets is generally able to see into every room on the ground 
 floor, and small groups of ladies & gentlemen may be seen 
 through the open windows sitting in conversation on low &; 
 easy chairs & sofas — This mode of life & form of society 
 may be supposed to arise from the jealous character of the 
 Spaniard, throwing social meetings into public view; and 
 yet such an arrangement really affords many unsuspected 
 opportunities for intrigues.] 
 
 There are a great many churches & convents, in 
 Havana, but at the time of the last revolution in Spain, 
 when the liberals were in power, the convents were for 
 the most part shut up; since which time it has not been 
 judged politic to place them on their former footing. Some 
 are, therefore empty, & some occupied as barracks. I saw 
 very few monks or priests of any kind. [*] There are 
 certain hours in the day for performing mass in the different 
 churches, when the doors are open. Then such as feel 
 inclined, go in and hear it. I attended frequently in various 
 parts of the town, but seldom saw many persons assembled 
 together. Perhaps this apparent remissness is owing to 
 the number of churches, & the frequency of performing 
 mass. — Two daily gazettes or newspapers are published, but 
 they are small sheets and never contain any public informa- 
 tion. The Royal Library is a small collection of books, in 
 paltry book cases in two small dark rooms in one of the 
 convents. There is no reading room in the city, and 
 except from strangers and a few scattered newspapers left 
 occasionally by the sea captains in the merchant's coffee 
 room, no news can be learnt. There are however several 
 book stores in the city, but all the books are very dear.— Talk 
 to a Spaniard, and he will tell you that there are at least 
 7000 troops in Havana, & as many more in the island ; and 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 361 
 
 that 20,000 are on their way from Spain, to reconquer 
 Mexico. But as far as my observation went, the force 
 and [*] the quality of it was greatly overrated. One reg*. 
 called the Fixed reg*. of Havana (meaning it to consist 
 of inhabitants who could not be sent from home,) said to 
 be 1000 strong, I was informed by one of the privates 
 consisted of no more than from 3 to 400 men, many of 
 whom were foreigners. In consequence of the Royal 
 Government & the great number of military men, as well 
 as persons in civil situations under government, the manners 
 and customs of Havana, are very similar to those in the 
 South of Spain & Cadiz, and though the natives (Cubenos,) 
 boast of their fine island, yet they imitate closely the old 
 Spaniard in almost everything. — The bishop of Havana 
 had a country house & garden about a league south of the 
 city. This residence was kept in good order, and made a sort 
 of shew. The expense of it, however, was beyond his means 
 after the change made in the church establishment & he sold 
 it. It is now much out of order, and except for the novelty 
 of the vegetation, scarcely worthy of a stranger's notice. I 
 however went in a volante to see it, and was much pleased 
 with the picturesque [*] appearance of the country, every 
 where around rich in soil, and highly cultivated. 
 
 Having been very intimate while at Cadiz, with one 
 of the Cuba members of the Cortes which drew up the 
 Constitution, I made several enquiries for him. I learnt that 
 his family resided in the neighbourhood of Principe, a fine 
 city in the center & the capital of the island; but that they 
 were at present under a cloud in consequence of their 
 republican sentiments. Two of their friends or relatives 
 had just been shot for holding secret correspondence with the 
 Columbians. I therefore judged it prudent not to make any 
 further inquiries about my old acquaintance, particularly 
 as I had no intention of travelling into the country. 
 
 Steam navigation will hereafter be of great service to 
 this island which is several hundred miles in length and 
 very narrow; and as it is under the influence of the trade 
 winds, & subject to a [*] great many calms on its southern 
 side. At present there are two running continually from 
 Havana to Matanzas, which is the resort of many Americans 
 
362 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 from the southern states, being considered a fine climate. 
 
 In the interior of the island there are mountain ridges, 
 and many beautiful & fertile vallies which are said to be 
 well peopled and very healthy. An opinion prevails in 
 Europe that white people cannot work under a hot sun 
 so well as negroes ; but I have been told that in the interior 
 of Cuba, many farmers from Europe work in company 
 with their slaves and are found to be more robust, to labour 
 better, and to enjoy better health than their slaves. The 
 country society is said to be very agreeable, and the proprie- 
 tors very hospitable. A European of education does not find 
 it difficult to get married to the daughter of a rich proprietor 
 who will secure a rich dowry in lands, houses & stock to 
 his daughter, provided the stranger will engage to live on his 
 property. So [*] attached are the females to their homes, 
 that they will not accept a foreigner's offers unless they 
 agree to adopt as their own the native country of their brides. 
 
 The population of the island is said to be nearly divided 
 equally into white & coloured persons. The native white 
 people are for the most part inclined to separate from 
 Spain, but as Spanish troops are spread over the island, they 
 fear, should they attempt a revolution, that the slaves would 
 rise and destroy them. Thus it is that with the terrible 
 example of S*. Domingo close to them, they remain apparently 
 reconciled to the imbecile proceedings of one of the worst 
 colonial governments on earth. 
 
 A British commissioner resides in the city of Havana, for 
 the purpose of securing the fulfilment of the treaty relative 
 to the emancipation [*] of the slaves. But it is strongly 
 rumoured that vessels, belonging to wealthy & influencial 
 inhabitants, are continually bringing African slaves into 
 different ports in the island. A late representation on this 
 subject was made by M r . Canning to the Spanish minister, 
 and while I was in Havana, I read a royal decree from 
 Madrid, published in the Cuba Papers. Among other 
 provissions, was one offering freedom to any slave who 
 should come forward and declare that he had been brought 
 as a slave from Africa into the island, after the date of this 
 decree. But it was thought by those persons with whom 
 I conversed on the subject, that this decree would be a dead 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 363 
 
 letter; and considering the fear, ignorance & confinement 
 of the slaves, and the prejudice imbibed from infancy by all 
 classes, that the negroe is little better than a monkey, I am 
 much inclined to be of the same opinion. — If we except the 
 experiment [*] now making by Miss Wright & her friends 
 in the U. States, which may possibly miscarry should no 
 good men of business be engaged to make the slave labour 
 profitable, I have not seen or heard of any proper steps being 
 taken to secure liberty to the emancipated negroes, when 
 they obtain it, or fit them duly to apretiate or enjoy it. — In 
 Louisiana where there is a law prohibiting the marriage 
 of white with coloured persons, I have seen some of the 
 latter (who are called quadroons) whiter even than the 
 whites, and yet these persons run the risk if they travel, to 
 be kidnapped, and though they have become free, cease to 
 be so on entering some of the slave states. — Education 
 which is carefully kept from the negroes, would fit them for 
 freedom, and give them the power both to procure it and 
 to secure it to themselves when once obtained. 
 
 Silver has become very scarce in Havana. I had to givQ 
 above half a dollar to [*] get a dubloon (17$ in Cuba & 16$ 
 in the U. States) changed. In New Orleans I was given 
 several Mexican dollars, but these few persons would 
 take, as the government are jealous of the circulation of 
 a coin with the cap of liberty upon it. But the scarcity 
 of the old coin & the poverty of the Spanish mint will 
 doubtless, soon force the new Mexican coins into circulation 
 here as it is doing throughout the U. States. 
 
 Once a week about 8 o'clock in the evening, a band of 
 music plays on the square near the governor's palace ; then 
 the ladies may be seen sitting on the benches in the open 
 air, and enjoying the close & inquisitive observation of the 
 gentlemen. [The soldiers are for the most part young 
 men. Their countenances give no sign of minds impregnated 
 with any firm or moral principles. Their discipline appears 
 loose, & they seem not to possess that military spirit, which 
 serves to render men steady in the ranks and to give precision 
 to their movements. But they are better than their officers 
 who appear ignorant of the military character & unfit to 
 discipline their men. They seem always to be either listening 
 
364 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 to the music of the band, looking at the surrounding 
 spectators, or thinking of their own dress, in place of 
 attending to the movements of the privates.] 
 
 At the time when the Spaniards made their first 
 settlements in the New World, they still retained in great 
 force many Moorish habits & customs. On first entering 
 Havana, I was struck with this fact; & as colonies seem 
 to [*] change their habits more slowly than the mother 
 countries, I remarked that I had not seen, in Old Spain, any 
 town so like in external appearance a Moorish city, as Havana. 
 
 The foreign merchants are generally more wealthy & 
 active than those of Havana. Colin Mitchell's house is 
 considered one of the first, and as he has now resided so 
 long in the place as to be almost like a native, he is always 
 consulted on commercial matters. — It is very expensive 
 living here. I paid 2 1/2$ a day, and was accommodated 
 in a very indifferent manner. The expense of governing 
 a people by force occasions an oppressive taxation, which 
 is wasted in the support of persons in office, almost all of 
 whom are open to the lowest description of corruption & 
 bribery. Every person, any way connected with government 
 is looking out for bribes to neglect whatever duty he is 
 called upon to perform [*] and if you observe, he has 
 his hands & eyes always on the watch for what they can 
 catch. A gentleman with a paper in his hand, met me one 
 day in the street; "this paper, said he, "has just cost me three 
 "dubloons ; it is a decree that I have been buying. Bribery 
 "will do any thing here." 
 
 In every street may be seen one or two tobacco shops, 
 where 3 or 4 or more men and boys sit rolling up segars. A 
 dozen good ones may be bought for sixpence or less, & every 
 body, men women & children, may be seen smoking. As 
 a stranger I sometimes stopped at a window, and asked 
 some stranger's question of the ladies sitting at it, and I 
 have seen a young lady while listening to my enquiries, 
 puffing away with her segar. 
 
 There is a real polish and sociability among these 
 people, that led me to think, spite of their ignorance & vices, 
 their company attractive, & agreeable. The Spaniards are 
 social but passionate. They live in much more familiarity 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 365 
 
 with their slaves than the Americans [*] and at first sight 
 seem to treat them well ; but they are unsteady in their 
 behaviour, & will occasionally lose their temper & abuse & 
 beat them like dogs. — I have frequently heard it said that 
 Scotchmen are tyrannical to their slaves; & I think I have 
 myself remarked that when once a European becomes 
 accustomed to have slave servants, he likewise becomes hard 
 hearted towards them ; he loses the feelings natural between 
 one human being & another, which is not & cannot be 
 replaced by that Domestic habit which the native of a 
 slave country has in his conduct with his coloured people. 
 
 [One forenoon I crossed the harbour in a boat & landing 
 under the Cabanas ascended the steep & rocky bank by a 
 winding path and entered the main ditch of that Fortification 
 which may be called the citadel. A great part of it is 
 cut in the solid rock. The scarps are of a formidable 
 height & part(l)y formed of rock. I got as far as the 
 underground entrance in the middle of the curtain of the 
 Eastern front, when a sentry stopped me. Perhaps I might 
 have continued my rambles with the aid of some silver, but 
 avoiding the contagion I was contended to pass out upon the 
 glacis by another route. There are few guns mounted, and 
 I should judge that all the w r orks are in a rather neglected 
 state. But they are on a comprehensive scale & no expense 
 seems to have be (en) spared in their original construction. 
 
 It is a frequent topic of conversation among the Ameri- 
 cans, whether Cuba can remain a Spanish colony, or become 
 independent; or whether it be the secret wish of the British 
 government to obtain possession of it. In the hands of 
 Great Britain it would no doubt be a powerful check upon 
 the commerce of the Southern States, & therefore no wonder 
 that fear should suggest the possibility of such a change ; but 
 the attempts made lately in congress by M r . Webster to prove 
 that Spain has no right to sell or cede the island to Great 
 Britain, is absurd. The U. States government purchased 
 Louisiana of the French & the Spanish government ceded 
 Florida to them ; surely, then, there are precedents authorising 
 either the cession or the sale of Cuba. But it would be far 
 better (provided the island remain a colony, & not become 
 independent,) that it should not belong to England. The 
 
366 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 habits of the natives are not to be easily changed, and they 
 would in all respects be disagreeable to, & clash with those 
 of England. The striking difference between Spaniards & 
 British appears of less consequence, while only a few 
 travellers & commercial men associate with the former ; but 
 were Cuba under the British government, the intercourse 
 would necessarily greatly augment, and that in a way the 
 most annoying to national prejudices. I know of no two 
 nations more widely differing on fundamental principles 
 than England and Spain, and I likewise know that an 
 Englishman who studies the Spanish language cannot 
 converse in it, or even understand a fourth part of what 
 a Spaniard says, until he has learnt and been some length 
 of time conversant with their peculiar ideas & modes of 
 thinking. To place then the large & populous island of 
 Cuba under the British rule would, I should conceive, be 
 the height of mis judgment. Better let it remain under that 
 of Spain, than any other foreign power, until its own people 
 or its Southern brethren make it independent. Next to the 
 British, the U. States are the last that should govern it. At 
 the present moment the Americans abuse the islanders, who 
 habitually feeling their dissimilarity, hate the Americans.] 
 Friday 14 th . Having got my passport indorsed by the governor, for 
 
 pu which I paid 4$, I took a passage on board the brig 
 
 Mary Capt 11 . Booth bound for Charleston and sailed from 
 Havana about 10 o'clock on the morning of Friday the 
 14 th . April. — The guard boat boarded us as we passed and 
 examined our passports, [*] and we were hailed from the 
 Moro Castle. — The weather was very calm & hot, and we 
 were left entirely to the influence of the Gulf stream, which 
 generally carries vessels to the N.E. at the rate of 3 miles 
 an hour. But the strength of the current is varied so much 
 by the winds, that the Captain, who was an old & experienced 
 hand, said that he never could be quite certain whereabouts 
 he was while in the current. We kept on shore till the 
 evening breeze from the land which soon carried out of sight 
 of it. — Every day we had light breezes, generally from the 
 East. We saw a great number of flying fish & dolphins. The 
 flying fish are small and have a silvery blue appearance ; they 
 fly sometimes above a hundred yards. Their flight is very 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 367 
 
 fast, in a straight direction, & just above the surface of 
 the water. The dolphins pursue them, & devour a great 
 many — On Wednesday (19 th ) forenoon, we made sound- 
 ings [*] and in the afternoon we came in sight of Charleston Wednesday 19th. 
 light house and the low and woody shores of South Carolina. A P n '— 26. 
 A Pilot soon came on board, and steering us over the bar 
 anchored us soon after sunset in the bay & abreast of 
 Sullivan's island — the wind and tide being against our 
 reaching the city of Charleston, which stands five miles up 
 the bay on the point of a neck of land (between one & two 
 miles wide) formed by the rivers Cooper & Ashley. 
 
 [The brig was laden with coffee & sugar, & fruit for 
 the most part oranges & bananas. The banana looks & tastes 
 something like a green fig. There was a gentleman with his 
 wife & child on board. He was from North Carolina & had 
 been passing the winter months at Matanzas to recover his 
 health after a severe cold & fever. I generally slept on the 
 deck rolled up in my cloak, the weather being calm & close, & 
 warmed by the hot gulf stream. 
 
 Soon after coming to anchor we were boarded by two 
 newspaper Editors, anxious to get papers & news from us.] 
 
 Early in the morning we got under weigh, and got 
 alongside the wharf about six o'clock. I landed and went 
 to the Planters Hotel, M r . Calder, a Scotchman who had 
 married the sister of a M r . Metcalf who was at the head 
 of the Edinburgh Police. The house is comfortable, and 
 the resort of many travellers. M rs . Calder is a very 
 active & clever woman, and is particularly kind & accom- 
 modating to all her [*] guests. I learnt that Jones' in 
 Broad St. is the resort, however, of the most genteel families 
 from the country. 
 
 After breakfast I went to the custom house, & got a 
 permit for 25 cents to land my baggage. I then called and 
 gave two letters of introduction, one to M r . James Calder 
 from M r . Brock of New Orleans, & another to M r . Edmonston 
 from Mess rs . Castillo & Black of Havana. They are two of 
 the principal merchants in the place. I was introduced to 
 several other merchants, and in the evening I went to the 
 Circus where I saw a party of Seminole Indians from 
 Florida. They were highly delighted with the horseman- 
 
368 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 ship & rope dancing, expressing it by smiles and observations 
 to one another in a greater degree than by accounts of 
 Indian seriousness & taciturnity I had been led to expect. One 
 of the [*] feats of the rope dancer was to hang himself by 
 the neck. The chief of the Indians, who was a prince among 
 them, on being asked what he thought of the exhibition 
 replied that it had pleased him very much with the exception 
 of the above feat which he disapproved of extremely, as 
 it was indecent for a man to hang himself in the presence 
 of his fellow beings. 
 
 These Indians belong to a tribe of about 5000. The 
 Americans since they have obtained possession of Florida 
 wish to buy their lands, and induce them to emigrate west 
 of the Mississippi, as well as the tribes bordering on the 
 State of Georgia. They are however better satisfied to 
 remain in the land of their forefathers and free from the 
 warlike tribes who would surround them in the West. The 
 Prince and five other chiefs under the guidance of an 
 American Colonel, are on their way to Washington to settle 
 these points with the government. — The [*] next day I went 
 with a gentleman to call upon them. They occupied two 
 large rooms in an outbuilding of the Planters' hotel. We 
 found them all lying at their length on carpet beds in the 
 same room. Some were mending moccasins, & others 
 various parts of a motley dress of white blue & red 
 cotton. They had coloured silk handkerchiefs tied round 
 their heads. Their skin was dark brown mixed with a 
 reddish cast; and it was much tattooed with black & blue 
 liquids. Their features were large and expressive, and 
 their countenances expressed intelligence shrewdness & be- 
 nevolence, but the lines in it would lead a person to suppose 
 their passions to be violent. The Prince appeared upwards 
 of 60, & a very healthy and stout built man. His manners 
 were easy but dignified. A [*] negroe servant attended 
 them. The salutation was a shake of the hand, and a slow 
 inclination of the body. No conversation of any consequence 
 took place. The next day they embarked on board a vessel for 
 New York. — Two other deputations, from the Cheroquees & 
 Choctaws, whose lands border on Georgia & Carolina, are at 
 present in Washington. — It seems as if no means had been 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 369 
 
 discovered of fitting the Indian tribes to live in the neigh- 
 bourhood of white people. The increase of the population 
 of the latter, and their rapid improvements, render such 
 neighbours intolerable, as they interrupt communications 
 by roads & canals, & never advancing themselves, seem 
 disposed to live with the lands around in a wild state of 
 nature. — The [*] Americans who have had long experience 
 on this subject, seem to be generally of opinion that they 
 will gradually encroach on the Indians, till all within their 
 present limits will be exterminated or driven by treaties of 
 some description or other far into the west. They will 
 afterwards, as the population of America encreases, dwindle 
 into nothing. Such a fate is a melancholy prospect for the 
 Philanthropists ; but it is difficult for any one acquainted with 
 their character & habits of life, to suppose it possible to change 
 numerous tribes of hunting Indians delighting to roam over 
 the wilderness into the peaceable & industrious inhabitants 
 of a cultivated country in which even the wild appearances 
 of nature are the effects of art. All that can be hoped is 
 that they may leave the [*] whites a legacy of their virtues 
 while they carry with them to the grave their savage vices. 
 The city of Charleston is about a mile & a half long, & half 
 a mile wide. The streets are straight. Some of them are 
 wide, and contain many good buildings. [Very few of the 
 streets are paved, and as the soil is sandy, the town is most 
 disagreeably dusty in dry weather.] There are several large 
 churches, one of which has a fine spire. In S*. Philip's 
 church, the oldest in the city, there is an organ which was 
 played at the coronation of George 2 nd . This city resembles 
 an English town more than any other which I saw in the 
 U. States. The wharves are large and convenient admitting 
 large merchant vessels to lie alongside. They are built with 
 palmeto, a spungy, disagreeable smelling wood, which the 
 worms will not touch. The trade from this place consists 
 in rice and cotton, which are considered superior to any 
 in the world. — The rivers Cooper & Ashly are large and 
 navigable, and since the steamboats have been in use, these 
 com- [*] modities, are brought down the rivers to the 
 wharves, instead of being brought in the country waggons 
 through the town. This change of business has greatly 
 
370 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 impoverished the upper part of the town, while it has tended 
 to encrease the value of the property near the rivers. 
 
 The population of Charleston is very mixed. The 
 coloured persons form a very large proportion of it. There 
 are some french, and a considerable number of English, 
 Scotch & Irish merchants. — Some few years ago a dangerous 
 conspiracy was discovered among the Negroes, to murder all 
 the whites, rob the city, and seizing the best ships, to remove 
 to St. Domingo. The scheme was well planned & arranged 
 by a free negroe, and only discovered two days before the 
 appointed time. About 20 blacks were hung. Since that 
 period volunteer [*] companies guard the city, and no 
 coloured person can be out after 10 at night, unless with 
 a written pass from the master. — Any coloured person 
 belonging to a vessel arriving in the port, is seized by the 
 police & kept in confinement till the vessel sails when he is 
 again sent on board. — The militia have periodical musters. I 
 attended one — the 2 nd May, which took place on the race 
 course, a mile out of the City. The governor of the 
 State, Manning, was present. The number, including the 
 city volunteer companies, did not exceed 1000. A dispute 
 about precedence took place between two of these companies, 
 while they were in line before the governor, when in true 
 democratic spirit one of the dissatisfied companies left the 
 field. There is a law -that no coloured person can accompany 
 the soldiers, or attend their parades, and any citizen may 
 arest and put in the guard house anyone disobeying this 
 order. The owner of the slave [*] has to pay the citizen a 
 dollar for his release. After the muster of the militia, several 
 negroe children were thus confined for the sake of the 
 reward. — A truly democratic spirit under a Republican 
 Government, should lead a population to be averse to any 
 attempts at military shew. I could not help regretting 
 to see persons, who in their proper pursuits appear to 
 advantage, unnesessarily & on false principles exposing 
 themselves to the ridicule of lookers on, who know little 
 beyond the art of destruction and are far less valuable 
 citizens than the persons whom they thus have a full 
 opportunity of laughing at. The worth of a national 
 militia is not in the proportion of its acquaintance with 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 371 
 
 the duties of regular soldiers. It depends upon the good 
 understanding & conduct of the citizens who step forward 
 to defend their rights, and the less they know [*] about 
 the business of regular soldiers, the better will they cooperate 
 together in their true character. Such a feeling would induce 
 them to prefer the plain attire of citizens, and save them 
 from the contagious desire of aping the dress & conduct 
 of the military. — 
 
 During the last war it was suspected that the British 
 intended to attack Charleston. The militia were therefore 
 ordered down, & companies were formed in the city. Lines 
 of defence & redoubts were erected across the neck of land 
 just outside the city; temporary barracks of wood were 
 built within the lines for the troops, who were occasionally 
 exercised in their duties. I visited the remains of these 
 works, which must have made the approach to the city 
 very difficult. During the revolutionary war the city was 
 likewise [*] protected by lines across from one river to the 
 other; but the city being at that time smaller, the remains 
 of those lines are but few, and are half a mile within the 
 late ones. — One afternoon I went down the bay in a packet 
 boat to Sullivan's Island, which is formed of sand, and 
 partly covered with frame buildings, the summer residences 
 belonging to the citizens, many of whom pass there the 
 greater portion of the hot season. A brick built fort, bearing 
 a strong battery of heavy guns, is placed on the south side of 
 it to defend the entrance which is difficult in consequence 
 of a sand bank, and bar across its mouth. In the middle 
 of the bay is another Island with a castle fort upon it, and 
 on the southern shore facing it, another fort. At the close of 
 the war two Martello towers were left unfinished [*] which 
 were intended for the defence of the passages round the 
 island to the south & up the Ashley river. — Considering the 
 swampy nature of the surrounding country, and the defences 
 made at the different approaches to the city by land & water, 
 it would require more means & exertion than might at first 
 be supposed to take forcible possession of it in time of 
 war. — The country is flat & swampy for many miles 
 inland, and very unhealthy during summer. The banks of 
 the rivers are the only inhabited parts for some distance 
 
372 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 up the rivers, the sea breeze & salt water being considered 
 the best preservative of health. Although the whole of the city 
 is subject to disease, yet that part nearest to the point is 
 considered the most healthy ; and the practice in this country 
 is to remove into the city in summer & back again to the 
 country in winter. 
 
 Hearing that there was [*] a camp meeting on the bank 
 of Cooper river about 15 miles above the city, I went to see 
 it the Sunday after my arrival. It had commenced the 
 beginning of the preceding week. As it was to conclude 
 the next day, crowds of persons visited it. On board the 
 steam boat in which I went to the ground, were between 
 5 & 600 persons, principally persons of colour. The camp 
 consisted of a semicircle of huts, which, as the weather was 
 dry, were lightly built & covered with green boughs & leaves. 
 Within this inclosure were ranges of benches with a rude 
 pulpit & similar covering of leaves, & open on all sides. In 
 the rear of all were scattered horses & carts & the cooking 
 huts, surrounded by the forest. In the river lay at anchor a 
 few sloops & boats in which families had come to this annual 
 religious meeting. [*] Most of the white visitors were drawn 
 there by curiosity, as there are always exhibitions of the ex- 
 travagant fancies & feelings of the superstitious & ignorant. 
 It being Sunday the idle gazers were numerous. Few of the 
 well informed portion of society seemed to be communicants. 
 There were morning, noon, afternoon & night preachings, at 
 which many were violently affected, crying aloud for 
 forgiveness, calling themselves vile sinners deserving of hell 
 flames, groaning loudly, throwing themselves down, & beat- 
 ing their heads & breasts. Between the discourses little 
 groupes were to be seen listening to some fervent petitioner 
 or devout expounder of the faith, while in every direction 
 around, others were strolling or enjoying themselves. The 
 preachers are generally men strong both in mind & body. They 
 have great facility and familiarity in their discourses, and 
 forcibly lay down their tenets, working upon the human 
 feelings. The negroe is consoled in his misfortunes by the 
 hopes which are continually held out to him of equality & 
 liberty in Heaven. [*] These camp meetings, though un- 
 attended & despised by the rich & powerful, are, however, 
 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 373 
 
 considered by them as doing more good than harm, keeping 
 the idle & depraved in check through fear, and making the 
 slaves patient under their chains in the hope that hereafter 
 their rewards will be proportioned to the degrees of their 
 patience & resignation in this life. — Thus is religion made 
 a political engine in the west, as well as in the east. 
 
 [They have two old established Clubs in Charleston, the 
 St. Andrews & the S*. Georges. I dined once at the 
 latter. Kean performed one night while I was there. He 
 had been very well received; but this time I heard he was 
 rather tipsy.] [I met Mr. Davis & Mr. Westfeldt, . with 
 whom I crossed the Atlantic last summer in the Canada 
 packetship.] The weather while I remained in Charleston 
 was extremely warm and close; the ther r . was generally 
 in the morning at about j6° & from 10 o'clock till four 
 or five in the afternoon, at 8i° or 82 ; but I was told 
 that in the autumn it ranges from 86° to 94 with a still 
 closer state of the atmosphere. 
 
 Having engaged my passage to Liverpool on board the 
 Mary Catherine (400 tons) ship, Capt n . Pace, I made haste 
 to look at the Academy of Arts, a small Exhibition of bad 
 paintings, and a small museum, which however, [*] con- 
 sidering that it has been a very short time established, con- 
 tains a tolerable collection of curiosities. 
 
 I embarked Wednesday night the 3 rd . May, the Mary May 3 rd 1826 
 Catherine having been hawled into the stream. — The next Wednesday 
 morning early we moved down the bay & the wind being 
 South East anchored near Sullivan's island where we lay 
 the whole day. — In the course of the night the wind came 
 round to the West, which enabled our pilot to take us over the 
 bar (on which there was not more than 31/4 fathoms, while 
 the Mary Catharine drew nearly two & a half) before break- 
 fast on Friday the 5 th ; when having a fine breeze off land, he 
 took his leave & all sail was immediately made to the East. 
 [Vessels have been known to wait 3 weeks before they could 
 get a wind to cross the bar. Some expectation is entertained 
 that an attempt will be made to deepen the water by narrowing 
 the entrance, engineers having been appointed to survey 
 it and report upon the subject.] 
 
 [Our ship was laden with cotton.] There were on board 
 
374 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 as passengers : M rs . Muggridge and her two young daughters 
 whom she was taking to school in England, her husband 
 being in business in Charleston : M r . Lucas, half English & 
 half an American, a South Carolina planter, having mills 
 for [*] cleaning rice near London, a well informed gentleman 
 and pleasant companion: [M r . Lucas mentioned to beautiful 
 shrubs which he has introduced into South Carolina, the 
 gardinia or Cape Jassamine, and the Lagerstremia Indica.] 
 M r . Bishop an Iron & Steel Manufacturer from Leeds, 
 likewise pleasant & accommodating: & M r . Smith a young 
 English gentleman engaged in business. We agreed remark- 
 ably well together; and the Captain being a well informed 
 and agreeable man; our Society was easy & pleasant. 
 
 The coast gradually deepens at the rate of a fathom a mile 
 till you get into the Gulf Stream which is marked by the sea 
 weed. [We saw two water spouts, while in the Gulf Stream.] 
 
 We had light southerly winds with thunder & lightning 
 for the first days. Then a gale from the North East came 
 on, and continued four days. The wind changed on Sunday 
 the 14 th . to the West, and carried us at an average rate 
 of 8 miles an hour till Thursday 18 th . when we got near 
 the South end of the Great Newfoundland Bank. There 
 fogs and rain lessened the breeze & the wind changed to the 
 northward. Friday night we had [*] squalls, one of which 
 laid the ship nearly on her beam ends, & carried away the 
 main top gallant sail. [We amused ourselves a great part 
 of our time reading. M r . Bishop lent me Cooper's novels, 
 Precaution, The Spy, The Pilot, The Pioneers, & The Last 
 of the Mohegans. I also read all the Presidents messages 
 bound in one vol. with the Declaration of Independence, & the 
 Constitution of the U. States. To those who have never 
 been a length of time at sea, it would be difficult to conceive 
 the habit of life thus fallen into; confined within the limits 
 of a little wooden world rolling (or rather tossing) in a 
 watery element, for weeks or months together ; all known to 
 one another and having almost the same interest; seeing 
 and hearing the same things, and sharing alike in all the 
 vicissitudes of life. A belief that such would be our 
 future mode of life and a practice of a few months, would 
 I think in most cases reconcile mankind to such a state of 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 375 
 
 existence. — ] We continued running at the rate of from 
 8 to 10 miles an hour till Sunday the 21 st ., the wind blowing 
 from the N.N.W. Our place at midday was Lat. 43.52. 
 Lon. 38. In the afternoon a sailor fell from the main 
 cross trees into the sea, his legs striking the bulwarks as 
 he fell. We were running at the rate of 9 knots at the 
 time, with a stiff breeze, the sea not running very high at 
 the time. The ship was put about & a boat lowered. One 
 of the hen coops and two planks were thrown overboard, but 
 after an hour's search, the boat returned without having 
 found him. It was supposed that he was stunned by the 
 fall, and disabled from swimming. I saw his head above 
 water astern of the ship, but soon lost sight of him in the 
 hollow of the waves. — When a ship is moving so fast threw 
 the water, she will in spite of the utmost expedition, be far 
 away before she can come round. — [After this accident the 
 conversation turned on the subject of the loss of men at 
 sea, when almost every one related some melancholy tale of 
 a sailor falling overboard, which threw a gloom over our 
 minds for the rest of the day.] [With the N. West wind 
 the ther r . fell at one time to 55 ° from ranging between 
 65 ° & 76°. ] The next day it was almost calm. In the 
 evening the wind came round to the east, & the follow- 
 ing [*] morning blew fresh from the South East, where 
 it continued driving us on, steering nearly east & running 
 at from 7 to 9 knots an hour till friday 26 th . when it 
 lessened. [On the 25 th . a hawk alighted on one of the 
 yards, quite fatigued. It soon fell asleep & was caught by 
 one of the sailors. As the wind was from the direction of 
 the Azores, it is probable that this bird was blown from 
 one of those islands. The 26 th . we threw a bottle overboard 
 containing the following notice in English, French & Spanish. 
 
 Lat.49-10 N. ) , r .., , 
 t ur May 26th. 1826 
 
 Lon.21.10 W.J 
 
 The Ship Mary Catherine of Liverpool 
 
 Robert Pace Master. 
 
 Sailed from Charleston S. Carolina on the 5 tb . ins 1 . & bound 
 
 to Liverpool. The finder of this bottle is requested to give 
 
 notice thereof in the newspapers, when and where found.] 
 
 On the 27 th we were becalmed till sunset, when a northerly 
 
376 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 wind sprung up. We had light winds through the night. 
 [The 27th. while becalmed we let down an empty bottle well 
 corked & sealed & a cork tied by a piece of twine 100 fathoms 
 under water. When the bottle was drawn up, we found that 
 it was full of water the sealing wax having been cracked, & 
 the cork squeezed & loosened so as to admit the water. The 
 cork which had been tied with twine, was missing, having 
 been compressed so as to escape from the twine bound round it. 
 
 During the last week me met and overtook several ves- 
 sels ; one appeared to have a number of Irish emigrants on 
 board going west.] Sunday 28 th . we had a fine breeze from 
 the N.W. & smooth sea. The day was cloudy & rainy. The 
 ther r . in the cabin at breakfast time stood at 61 1/2 . Early 
 Monday morning it changed to the East. The day cleared 
 up, and we had a brisk breeze from the N.E. bringing with 
 it the smell of the land. The wind got more round to the 
 East, and lessened in the night. Early on tuesday we were 
 in soundings 60 fathoms, to the south of the Scilly Islands. 
 We tacked & stood all day to the northward. The night was 
 calm. Some small land birds were seen about the ship. At 
 4 o'clock in the morning of Wednesday 31 st . we were in 80 
 fathoms water. A breeze sprung up from the north, & we 
 steered an easterly course. Several vessels in sight. We 
 tried to catch fish without success. The wind came more 
 favorable in the afternoon & we stood to the N.E. The 
 Kerry mountains were discerned on our weather bow about 
 half past two. In the evening we were abreast of the 
 Kinsale light house. The night was fine. Several vessels 
 were in sight. After midnight the wind failed. Thursday 
 the I st . we had a light westerly breeze, and made but little 
 way. The coast of Cork & Water ford [*] [MS mutilated] 
 le distant from [MS mutilated]. We hailed a boat & got 
 some skate & codfish. The day was beautiful ; the ther r . 
 stood in the cabin between 6o° & 65 °. A steamboat crossed 
 our way, supposed from Bristol to Waterford. At sunset 
 we were off the Salters light with the Tusher light ahead. 
 The following billet rolled up in a small bit of oiled paper 
 was sewed with silk ribbon round the Hawk's neck; 
 
 "This noble Hawk (supposed to be a native of the 
 " Azores) was blown by a South Easterly gale on board the 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 377 
 
 "ship Mary Catherine Cap tn . Rob 1 . Pace, on her passage 
 "from Charleston to Liverpool, the 24 th . May 1826 in 
 "Lat. 47-10 North & Long. 29-10 West, and was liberated 
 "with this billet round his neck, the I st . June 1826 in the 
 "Irish channel off the Waterford Coast. — Being a beautiful 
 "bird of its kind, it will, it is hoped, improve the breed in 
 "Ireland," & the bird was then released from his con- 
 finement; but he was too weak to fly f[rom] the ship. 
 
 [To a Little Land Bird, 1 
 
 Which settled on a vessel, between two and three miles 
 from the nearest shore. 
 
 Welcome, weary, winged stranger, 
 
 Welcome to our rocking bark ; 
 Welcome, 'mid this wide-spread danger. 
 
 As the night grows wild and dark. 
 
 Why suspect us ? we are friendly, — 
 
 Cease thy fluttering, go to rest — 
 We a resting place will lend thee, 
 
 Here benighted from thy nest. 
 
 Yes, the hardy sailor hails thee 
 
 As a wand'rer from thy home : 
 Wonders what can so far wing thee. 
 
 Tempt thee, like himself, to roam. 
 
 But here's one whose gentle bosom 
 
 Feels kind pity's higher swell ; 
 To his bosom, wand'rer, welcome, 
 
 There thy sorrows, stranger, tell. 
 
 Come and pour thy little sorrows, 
 
 They shall touch some kindred chords; 
 
 Tun'd to sympathy, which borrows 
 Strength from what its aid affords. 
 
 Yes, here's one to grief no stranger, 
 One whose breast for thee can move; 
 
 Come, then, little airy ranger, 
 Come, and all his pity prove.] 
 
 ^rom a clipping inserted in the margin of the Diary. — Ed. 
 
m 
 
 INDIANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 [For the last 3 days we had turtle soup & steaks, Madeira 
 wine, 20 years in bottle, and excellent sparkling champagne.] 
 The following is a statement of the ship's lat. & Ion. for 
 the several days of our voyage across the Atlantic : 
 Charleston Lat. 32-36 north 
 Lon. 80- west 
 Sunday 7 th . May Lat 38.49 Lon. 77. 
 
 8 34.15 
 
 9 33-45 
 
 10 cloudy 
 
 11 do. 
 
 12 34.54 
 
 Saturday 13 [MS mutilated] 
 
 Sunday 14 35. 18 
 
 15 36.14 
 
 16 37-33 
 
 l 7 39- 
 
 J 8 39.50 
 
 l 9 41-3° 
 
 20 42.36 
 
 Sunday 21 43-52 
 
 22 44.41 
 
 ^3 45-32 
 
 24 47- r o 
 
 25 48.50 
 
 26 49.40 
 
 27 50. 
 
 Sunday 28 50.7 
 
 29 50.8 
 
 30 . . 50.20 
 
 3 1 50.48 
 
 Thursday I st . June we were off the Water ford coast distant 
 15 miles. We were becalmed the whole of the day. Our 
 poor hawk seemed to be recovering himself. He was, there- 
 fore released from his cage & allowed to walk the deck. In 
 the course of the afternoon he appeared disposed to fly, and 
 at length ventured to try his strength, but fell into the sea 
 a short distance from the ship, and was drowned. We all 
 regretted the melancholy fate of our hawk, after having 
 entered so warmly into the project of sending him safely 
 
 73.42 
 72.20 
 
 .66. [MS illegible]!; 
 
 62 
 
 60.30 
 
 57.20 
 
 55-30 
 
 51-30 
 
 46 
 
 45 
 38 
 34-45 
 
 33 
 29.10 
 
 25.10 
 
 21. 
 
 19. 
 
 16. 
 
 12.30 
 
 9.10 
 
 9.20 
 
MACDONALD DIARIES 379 
 
 on shore. In the evening a steamboat passed [*] [MS 
 mutilated] The whole of Friday we had light winds from 
 the North and made very little way In the evening we 
 passed the New York Packet, two days from Liverpool, off 
 the Wicklow coast. I felt a pleasure at the sight of the 
 ship in which I had twice crossed the Atlantic in most agree- 
 able company, so safely & so comfortably accommodated.— 
 The wind came round to the South, and at dav break on 
 Saturday 3rd we were close to Holyhead. The wind was 
 light all the forenoon, & the tide against us ; but a breeze 
 springing up in the afternoon we reached Liverpool by 
 to o'clock at night, and landed without an accident.