FRUIT CULTURE Sf‘Orr • v -v ^ *($ CULTURE AND FORCING OF FRUITS. No. I— THE STRAWBERRY. SECOND EDITION. BY GEORGE McEWEN, SUPERINTENDENT OF THE GARDEN OF TIIE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, LONDON ; AND LATE GARDENER TO HIS GRACE THE DUKE CF NORFOLK, AT ARUNDEL CASTLE. LONDON; GROOMBRIDGE AND SONS, PATERNOSTER ROW AND SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. 1857. GROOMBRIDGE BROTHERS, PRINTERS, EXETER STREET. STRAND. ’ A •Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Alternates https://archive.org/details/fruitcultureorcuOOmace / AA^ko del.efcTith. Vincent, ©rooks imp Strawberry: British. Queen FRUIT CULTURE THE STRAWBERRY. The Strawberry belongs to the genus Fragaria, a family of the Nat. Ord. Rosaceae, consisting of herbaceous pe- rennial plants. The species chiefly inhabit the temperate parts of Europe and America, one or two of them being indigenous to Great Britian. As the habitat of a plant oftentimes furnishes a kind of index to its general treat- ment, it may be observed .that Strawberries are mostly found in woods, growing in moist and loamy soils. This, however, is not, by any means, a sure guide, as plants are ^ frequently found to luxuriate and mature themselves under 4) entirely different circumstances from those in which they C are found naturally. In this instance, although the garden kinds have been much changed by crossing and high cul- ture, yet practice agrees generally in preferring for them both atmosphere and soil of a moist character, free air, and, at certain seasons, subdued sunshine, or a cloudy sky ; 0 *vshelter, also, such as the natural habitat of the plants would 0 indicate. ^ The cultivated varieties appear to have sprung from Fragaria grandiflora , said to be a native of Surinam; o Fragaria chilensis, a native of Chili ; and Frag aria virgi - niana. a native of Virginia. The former of these reDresents £ X \o 1 1 2 FRUIT CULTURE. known as Scarlets. The Hantbois have sprung from Fra - garia elatior , and the Alpines from Fragaria vesca. The Alpines are frequently found in rocky situations ; and in another place, I have recommended them as suitable for edgings to walks and alleys in the fruit and kitchen gar- dens. They are also very much at home, and quite appropriate, on artificial mounds, or rockwork. Perhaps it may be well to state, at the outset, how I came at first to give the Strawberry my peculiar care. I saw, or thought I saw, what subsequent observation and experi- ence have confirmed, namely, that no fruit was so generally acceptable, or, indeed, so freely partaken of with less apprehension of danger; that it always looked well at table ; and that the invalid could partake of, and relish it, as well as the healthful. But another reason, and that no mean one, was the facility with which it could be accom- modated, for while it is one of the most pleasant fruits, it is also one of the easiest to cultivate, and may be success- fully grown in a variety of ways, and under untoward circumstances. STRAWBERRY FORCING. The common objection, “ I have no place to grow them, does not here apply. No model pit, nor improved form of structure, therefore, will be proposed. Not that a well adapted structure is undesirable, but, certainly, it is not essential ; and I think it will be more instructive to show how, under some difficulties, I have succeeded satisfactorily. The grounds of my success being thus explained, the reader will be able to adapt any form of house or structure to the end proposed. dUsn* L? THE STRAWBERRY. 3 The best Strawberries I have produced, have been grown with no other means than that which the common garden- frames, and a pine-pit, or stove, have afforded. As the pine-stove is considered a bad place for strawberry culture and a lower temperature, agreeing with that of the peach - house, is more to be recommended, I shall briefly state the advantages and disadvantages of the stove, in order to show how to turn them to the best account. The disadvantages of the stove are : — (1) That the tem- perature is too high; (2) that the moisture is excessive, particularly at the setting period ; and (3) that the flavour is by these means deteriorated. The position in which it is usual to place the pots is worthy of consideration, for it may be said to aggravate the first of these two evils. This position is close to the back wall, at about eighteen inches from the glass, on moveable shelves, supported by brackets in the walls, or hung on wires from the rafters. To meet this objection of too much heat, a small chink, say one- fourth, or, even, one-eighth of an inch wide, is left open at the top of the house, to admit air, and this is allowed to re- main so constantly, excepting for a couple of hours in the afternoon. This air-giving has much to do with success, from the fact that it is heated air in circulation with which the plants are thus bathed. Hereby, too, the second ob- jection above alluded to is also met, for moist air, if not stagnant, is not so injurious ; and, by keeping the surface of the house rather dry when the plants are in flower, and, at the same time, keeping the air in motion , the impreg- nation, or setting, is successfully effected. As to giving flavour, my plan is to remove the plants to frames, or cold houses, as soon as the fruit is coloured, and there to allow them as much air as the weather will permit, exposing them fully on fine days. By this means the flavour is perfected. b 2 4 FRUIT CULTURE. The advantages of using the pine-pit or stove, are : — (1) That the warmth enables the cultivator to ripen more fruit, and (2) to swell them as well in a given time ; in other words — to secure quicker returns. Most excellent fruit can be grown in common frames, with the plants near the glass, or in “ orchard houses,” without the aid of fire-heat ; but these plans can, of course, only yield one or two gatherings, ere the fruit are also ripe out of doors. Another plan, which may suit a large class of growers, is this : — About the first of March, collect a quantity of fer- menting leaves and dung, and with these form a bed of about two feet in thickness, upon which a garden-frame is to be placed. If the frame is deep enough, it is as well to put this heating material into it ; but if otherwise, place the frame on the prepared bed. In either case, it is desirable to choose a warm situation for the bed, and to have the frame set at a sharp angle, or pitch, facing the south. Into this bed, when properly sweetened, the pots are to be plunged to the rim, keeping them about nine inches from the glass. The fermenting material must not exceed a milk-warm heat. The chink, to admit a little air by night, and still more by day, must not be forgotten. By about the middle of April, the plants will be in bloom, and during that period, if mild, the lights should be tilted alternately at front and back, to cause a circulation. On fine days, they will even be better drawn quite off. After the setting period is passed, increase the heat, by admitting a less volume of fresh air; and, when the ripening process is going on, treat them with more air, as when in bloom. It will be found that for late forcing, this is a more excellent way than having the plants set up on stages, in the most ap- proved fashion, in the most beautiful house. This plan THE STRAWBERRY. 5 also suits admirably for supplying a succession for the forcing-pits at all seasons. Although I have succeeded well, and have done much in the Pine-pit, Vinery, and Peach-house, and Frames, yet more simple means are available. Intermediate pits, or houses, such as those in which the fancy and common geraniums luxuriate, are very well suited for the fruit under consideration. I have used moveable shelves, such as are already described, in all such structures. These, at the flowering and flavouring periods, furnish all the accommodation that can be desired. The general treatment for forcing may be summed up thus : — The plants are kept in the airy situation when in blossom ; and in the warm and moist situation, even to 100 degs. when the fruit is swelling and colouring ; they are again subjected, or removed to a cooler, yet mild atmosphere, and, if possible, to where a soft warm air will play among the foliage, when ripe and ripening. SOIL FOP POT CULTURE. The soil which I have found to be most suitable for the forcing plants, consists of three-fourths of turfy loam, of a soft, unctuous texture, not gritty, but capable of adhesion, yet not marly ; one-fourth of decayed night-soil, at least three years old, and reduced to mould ; these are mixed with a little sand and leaf-mould, sufficient to keep the whole open, for the free passage of air and water. Another excellent compost which I have frequently used, consists of heavy loam from the old melon beds, taking care, how- ever, not to use the soil which formed the surface of the bed, as very frequently this contains too many of the pro- geny of the red spider from the melons. This soil is, no 6 FRUIT CULTURE. doubt, made more rich and mellow by the fermentation from the melon beds ; and as I grow melons in a richer soil than is usually recommended, this may render it better adapted to the Strawberry. To such loam I add one- fourth of decayed nightsoil, or cow-dung, or any decom- posed manure, and a quantity of sand sufficient to keep the soil from getting sodden. If there should happen to be an inertness in the texture of this soil, I quicken it by the addition of a little charred earth, not burnt to ashes. I may observe, in reference to the night soil, that it may be greatly hastened to the cool and mellow state, like earth, in which state only it is fit for use, by frequent turnings and mixings with marly loam and turf. This is most effectually done in very cold and dry weather. With three years’ preparation it may be safely used ; but, to pre- vent mistakes, I mark the age of each heap. The soil for the late sorts and late forcing, I make of a more heavy nature, in order to counteract the effects of the excessive evaporation in the warm months. For the early sorts, and early forcing, lighter soil is suit- able ; and this may be got by adding more sand and leaf- mould. This light soil suits best for the early pottings of all kinds. POTTING AND DRAINAGE. As a general rule, I never shift a plant until the roots are well spread over the sides of the pots without getting matted. In large shifts I only remove part of the drainage. My usual practice is to shift the plants at once from the small three or four-inch pots, in which they are laid, into the six-inch or fruiting pots. A nice point in shifting, is to see that the soil put round the plant being potted, is of the THE STRAWBERRY. 7 same consistency, or firmness, as the ball of the plant itself, so that when the newly-potted plant is watered, the water will diffuse itself equally through every part. The neck of the plant should be kept about level with the rim of the pot. Avoid deep potting. From plants required to fruit in March, April, and May — that is, before the strong heats of summer — a quantity of ordinary fruits can be had, by allowing the plants to remain in four-and-a-half inch pots, if they are watered liberally with liquid manure. I see that each pot is well washed, or well rubbed, and made thoroughly dry, before using. N ew pots are generally preferred. To drain a pot well is of importance. Lay, first, over the hole of the pot, one crock, or potsherd, or shell, large enough to cover it, and with the hollow side down ; around this place others of smaller dimensions, in the same position, but with one edge resting upon the first crock ; thus securing a considerable openness in the drainage, and making it difficult for it to get choked up ; next, I place a handful of still smaller crocks, and over the whole a layer of turf, torn to pieces by the hand, not cut by the spade, and also a dusting of soot. I need scarcely say, that the turf is to prevent the soil mixing with the drainage, and it also affords food for the plants. The soot is used to check the ingress of worms, and it also acts as a manure, though not lasting. Increase the drainage as the pots increase in size. One crock to the small pot, in which the plants are laid, is enough, and about an inch in depth is ample drainage to a six-inch pot. The Strawberry is very impatient of wet, and liable to get out of health if imperfectly drained. I pot firmly at all stages, particularly at the last shift. It is partly an object to get as much nourishment in as small a compass as possible ; but firm potting can be over- done. It is a good practice on dry days to stir slightly the 8 FRUIT CULTURE. soil in the pots, and occasionally to firm or press the soil anew, around the roots. This largely contributes to health- ful aeration. If the soil is rightly composed it should have something like the softness of silk, when handled — not a harshness like buckram ; when gently pressed, it should go together like meal, or as “ snaw in a thaw yet it must have sand sufficient, that When let fall to the ground it will go to pieces. Further, the soil should be such that the roots of plants will penetrate every particle of it readily, even greedily, gathering strength with the foliage. If, per- chance, you happily can produce the vigour, elasticity, and power, of which the roots are capable, so that they almost burst the pots, it is a capital sign of good management. WATERING. This is one of the most important operations in plant- culture, and yet no precise directions can be given. The plan I adopt to have it efficiently performed, is not to allow two men, but one, to attend to the same plants ; and if this man takes an interest in his plants, he can always tell, without ringing the pot, or any other test, just what each plant requires. In dry weather, and always where there is fire-heat, the plants are syringed every night and morning, excepting when in bloom, and when the fruit is ripening. In the dull early months, and the period of short days, to water the soil once a day is too often ; while, in the sunny and long days, a good soaking of water is required every day. It is even necessary sometimes to water twice a day in very dry weather ; but this is not general. It is a rule never to let a leaf flag, nor have the soil saturated. I make a practice of giving clear liquid manure to the plants being forced, twice a week, from the time the fruit THE STRAWBERRY. 9 is set, till it begins to change colour, and to those out of doors, from the time the pots are filled with roots, until the end of September. This manure is usually made from soot, and sheep or deer dung, but that from the horse, cow, or pigeon, or guano, either mixed or separate, will do as well. In all cases, the manure-liquid is used so weak, as just to colour the clear water. A usual way of preparing this liquid manure, where there is no tank, is to fill a wicker or wire basket with the solid excrements, and put it into a barrel or cistern of water ; and, by a little stirring, it very soon mixes with the water. By this plan the basket can easily be refilled, when the manure gets exhausted, and the water is kept freer of sedi- ment ; but many put the manure at once into the vessel, and allow the accumulation to remain at the bottom. Which- ever way is adopted, use the water clear, not muddy; and when fresh excrements are added, if used the same week, see that the liquid manure is more largely diluted. The relative strength of the manures is nearly in the order in which they stand : Night-soil, guano, pigeons and domestic fowls, deer and sheep, horses and oxen — making some small allowance for the kinds of food used, and if the guano, &c., has been kept dry. Hydrometers are sometimes used to test the strength of the liquid, but I have not found them requisite. At no period do I use saucers to put the pots in ; but I have no great objection to their use in summer. I fre- quently set the pots on turf, into which the plants are en- couraged to root, particularly if the plants do not require to be removed. In thus using turf, or rich soil, I always place between the pots and the soil, pieces of wood or tile, or make a hollow in the turf, so as to prevent the bottom of the pot resting too close, and thus stopping the free action of air and water. 10 FRUIT CULTURE. I prefer rain, or soft water, although I have used very hard, or chalky water, with no apparent injury. See that the water is of the same temperature as the house in which the plants are growing, before using. Avoid using the warm water from the hothouse boilers. For early forcing, I warm water purposely to mix with the cold. It is an advantage, if the pipes, or flues, pass near or through the cisterns, so that no time is lost in requiring to warm water. CALENDARIAL SUMMARY. To make the foregoing statements more easy of practical application, I will give an abstract of the operations inci- dental to Forcing the Strawberry, through the entire season. January and February. — Those plants which are put in heat early in January, should yield fruit ready to gather by the beginning of April. The Black Prince is the best kind for early crops; the next best is Keens’ Seedling. From the time the plants are put into heat, until the fruit are set, the temperature by night should be about 55 degs., and from 65 degs. to 75 degs. by day. When the blossoms are expanded, the atmosphere should be dry, and kept in circulation. As soon as the fruit are set, the plants will bear 10 or 15 degs. more heat by day, and 5 degs. by night, with air. Thin out the fruit to a dozen of the best. Where there is ample means, a shifting of the plants, to suit their different stages of growth, is to be commended. Our first dish in 1856, was gathered on February 27th, from plants put in heat about the middle of November. If very severe weather occurs, cover up the store-plants in ridges, with straw, hay, or leafy boughs. Bring in successions, accord- THE STRAWBERRY. 11 ing to the demand, putting them at first into cool frames. Two dozen pots, weekly, is usual, but in large establish- ments this number is quadrupled. March and April. — The end of April, and beginning of May, is as good a period as any for perfecting the fruit under glass. Air should, and can now, be admitted freely at all stages, and the heat is not too great. To have fruit ripe early in June, or by the end of May, the plants should be put under glass by the first week in March. Be sparing in water and heat for the first fortnight With an increase of the solar heat, and air, increase the amount of moisture. The early forced plants, if planted out now in beds of good soil, wilt come again into bearing in autumn, and bear splendidly the following season ; but throw away all such as have become infested with red spider. Remove the store plants from the ridges by the end of April ; set them on a level surface, in a sheltered place, and top-dress them. The British Queen, and all late sorts, may now be put in heat. I have gathered Queens good in March, better in April, and best in May and June. May and June. — The fruiting plants on stages require the greatest care, to prevent an excess of evaporation. Watering and damping the house, or pit, does not prove a remedy. Slight shading, when the sun is most powerful, is most effectual. I also adopt the plan of fixing slips of thin boards on the stage, in front of the pots, to prevent the sun acting on them. To have the pots placed within others is also a counteractive. Cold frames, slightly shaded by day, and set on bricks, so as to admit air below the frame, afford one of the best means of retarding the ripe fruit, without detracting from its flavour. In planting out the forced plants at this season, they require to be well watered, and the soil should be pressed firm around the ball, which should be slightly broken at planting. 12 FRUIT CULTURE. June is the beginning of the season for layering young plants for next year’s forcing. It should be kept constantly in mind, that no treatment at the fruiting period will se- cure excellence, unless strict attention is paid now to the preparation of the plants. The forcing period, in a great measure, only develops the stores which ought now to be laid up. In order “ to steal a march,” I have had plants planted in frames to induce early runners ; but no material advantage was derived. In late situations, however, this plan may be advantageous. Our season for layering, in 1855, was from June 9th to August 6th. The usual number of plants prepared for forcing was about three thousand, but many of these plants were equal to three of those usually seen. My plan is to lay them in large sixties, or three or four-inch pots, one plant in a pot, selecting only those runners which are short and stout. In layering, the mode adopted is, to have a barrow with the soil and pots, and a basket of stones, of the size of hens’ eggs. The pots are placed about the plants as convenient, the terminal runner stopped, and the young plant set on the soil in the pot — which must be slightly sunk — one of the stones being laid on the runner close to the plant ; this stone serves the threefold purpose of steadying the plant and pot, and keeping the soil moist. Each plant is watered, and thereafter carefully attended to. In about a fortnight, or three weeks, when the pots are filled with roots — not matted — they are shifted into the fruiting pots. These latter must be clean and dry, and have an inch of drainage at bottom ; above the drainage is placed a layer of torn turf, and a dusting of soot, to teaze worms, on their entering from below. When the plants are thus potted, set them in a place at once the most open to light and air, and the most sheltered from winds, which may be at THE STRAWBERRY. 13 command. The spot chosen must be free from weeds, or any crops. If there is any situation in which the general crops are observed always to do best, there place the straw- berry pots, not in the earth, but on boards or ashes ; it is better still to have two one-inch rails, nailed together by crosspieces, so as to make a sparred stage, and on this to place the plants. They may be set as thick as they will stand for the present, but observe that the hole in the bottom of the pot does not rest on the rails, but over the open space between them. This allows a perfect circula- tion for water and air, and also prevents the ingress of worms. Some have objected to the practice of putting the run- ners into small pots, and recommend layering in the open ground, making first “a hole,” and filling it with fresh soil. This plan I have tried when short of pots, but cannot com- mend it. I could, from a distance, throughout the season, recognise the plants so treated, from their having longer leaves ; but, when closely examined, their rootlets were not bristling with fibres and spongioles, like those from pots ; and worst of all, they were often very deficient in the prin- cipal point, namely, a firm central bud. I admit they will require less water, from the soil “ in the hole ” being cooler, but this is an evil to be avoided, especially for pot culture, if you want to make the most of the season. I might mention many other plans, as that of lifting the plants required for forcing, from the open quarter, or border, as wanted, and putting them in boxes and pits, without potting at all, which I have occasionally practised. There is also that which was approved of by some at the Horti- cultural Gardens last year. But I only cite those plans I approve, although others may apparently have in their favour the arguments of being “an easy way,” or re- quiring “ less attention.” 14 FRUIT CULTURE. July and August. — The layering and potting must have unremitting attention. If the half of the forcing plants are potted into the fruiting pots by the end of July, that will do. I find six- inch pots the most convenient, hut some of our plants are potted into nine-inch pots, and these are completely filled with roots. Those which are potted in large pots are reserved for late forcing. Remove the runners as they appear, and as soon as the leaves of the plants are beginning to cover the pots, have the plants thinned out. The roots, also, by this time, will be at the sides of the pots, and, to preserve them from injury, the whole should he mulched with decayed leaves, straw, or ashes, so as to prevent excessive evaporation. This makes frequent waterings unnecessary, a point which it is very desirable to secure. Syringe under the foliage regularly, to prevent red spider. New plantations out of doors may now he made. — (See “ Open-air Culture.”) September and October. — Shift early those which will bear larger pots for late forcing. The Black Prince and Eleanor do not like large pots. If the soil gets at all caked, stir up the surface when dry, and allow no weeds or runners to be seen. The chief attention should be di- rected to the maturing of the plants. If they are not firm, and full in the buds, by the beginning of October, put them in frames, in which they may he shu^t up early in the afternoon, but exposed by day. An excellent plan is, to have artificial banks formed, at an angle of about 40 degs., and in these banks to form shelves, sufficiently wide apart to prevent one row from shading the other. Such banks gather a vast amount of heat by day, and this, together with the dews by night, aided by syringing, tends to ripen the plants thoroughly. Heavy waterings should not now be given, and only in the early part of the day, whilst in rainy weather, the pots must be laid on their sides. Mil- C C- * * ('V' / • f ’ / THE STRAWBERRY, 15 dew may be expected to attack the tender kinds, for which apply dustings of sulphur. Should late strawberries be re- quired, the early forced plants which were planted out will be showing fruit, and can be lifted and put under glass. Nearly all the forcing sorts will ripen in autumn a second crop, without the use of glass, if planted out early. November and December. — No growth should now be looked for, but rather the resting of the plants. Very heavy and continuous rains, or snow, may, at this season, be expected, and the plants should be early put in ridges, using ashes or sand, at the bottom of the pots. I prefer ridging them, because, when put in this position, they are kept free from wet, and, if they are at all affected by red spider, the rains cleanse them. They are also fully ex- posed to the light and air, and can be easily protected by branches, or hay, if very severe weather should set in. Another advantage is, that the roots of the plants are in a happy medium — neither wet nor dry — and they thus re- quire less attention than when under glass. Labour, as well as " house-room,” is, in every place, a scarce commo- dity, and success depends much upon using it properly. In the early part of the forcing season, about thirteen weeks are requisite to bring the fruit of the Strawberry to maturity. To have strawberries ripe the first week in March, they ought, therefore, to be put in heat by the first week in December, and so on. The period required, of course, becomes shorter as the sun increases in power ; but eleven weeks may be taken as the average time for pro- ducing ripe fruit. I may here observe, that in early forcing — that is, before the middle of January — the culti- vator must be prepared to sacrifice at least the half of the plants put in. After that period, there is no great diffi- culty in securing a full crop from every plant. A favour- 16 FRUIT CULTURE. able period to hasten or retard the ripening of the fruit is just previous to its colouring ; but do not at any time ex- pose the forced plants to draughts of cold air, or chill the roots by watering with cold water. Let every opera- tion be regulated by thought and gentleness, as if treating a living being, and in contradistinction to roughness and carelessness. OPEN-AIR CULTURE. The best soil for the Strawberry is a deep, heavy, unctu- ous loam, enriched with manure. If, therefore, the soil is light, add greasy clay, or marl, with manure. Trench or fork the ground from eighteen inches to two feet deep, placing the most strawy of the manure at the bottom of the trench, where it serves to enrich and drain, as well as to keep the soil open to the influences of the atmosphere. The most decayed part of the manure is worked in near the surface, not in layers, but incorporated with the soil as the work proceeds. The ground should be well drained. I have planted at all seasons. A good time is in August, or as early as good strong plants can be had. My practice is to select the stout knotty runners, and to lay them in pots, as for pot culture. Another good way is to lay them around the old plants, first loosening the old sur- face soil, and adding some newly prepared soil, but avoid making “ a hole,” as recommended by some ; steady the layers by pegs, or slightly thrust them in the soil, but do not plant layers deep. These will lift with good balls. Once watering, at planting time, will suffice, unless the weather is very dry, when the operation may be repeated. The great aim should be to have the plants thoroughly established before winter, and to this end all runners THE STRAWBERRY. 17 should be stopped, and frequent hoeings, on dry days, should take place among the plants. By attention to these matters, a splendid crop may be had the first year, and for four years in succession, after which destroy the plants. The distance at which the plants should stand apart must be regulated by the kinds. The Black Prince, Grove- end Scarlet, &c., do not require the same space as British Queen, Goliath, & c. The latter, that is, the strong growers, I plant at two feet and a half apart in the rows, with three feet between the rows. The smaller sorts are planted eighteen inches apart each way, or one foot in the row and two feet between. Say not there is thus a waste of ground in the case of larger sorts, for the quantity and quality of fruit procured by ample space, with good culture, is enormous — almost incredible. For small gardens, these distances may be too great, and they are chiefly applicable to places where very superior fruit are expected. Well- prepared ground for Strawberries is good for the crops which follow, so that the extra labour is not lost. A very good plan for small holders — and it is adopted in large gardens also — is to form a large mound of soil, either circular, oval, or ridge — in fact, any form. It must be well drained in the centre, by heaps of rough brick rubbish, stones, or even branches. All round and up this mound, form shelves, about fifteen inches wide, beginning at the bottom. By the edges or sides of the shelves, or little terraces, there should be placed bricks, drain tiles, stones, or rails, for the purpose of keeping up the soil, and, also, for the early ripening, and for the keeping of the fruit clean. The plants are planted close behind the edgings, and the fruit has a fine effect when hanging over the edge. This plan increases space, making small gardens large. One objection to it is, when the plants on the upper tiers c 18 FRUIT CULTURE. are being watered, there is a danger of making those below soddened with wet ; but if proper precautions are used when making the mound, to have sufficient drainage up the centre, and a few drain-tiles at intervals in the soil, placed in a slanting position towards the drainage, much risk of getting the bottom ledges too wet, may be avoided. I have sometimes thinned the crowns of the plants, but without any marked benefit. Every autumn, however, I have the beds top-dressed, not usually digging between the rows, but have no great objection to forking in the centre of the spaces between the plants. I do not cut off the foliage until it decays, and this is commonly done in the spring of the year. A top-dressing of such as cow-dung, pigeon-dung, and guano, can, at the same time, be given with advantage but, if these are unmixed and fresh, they must be used sparingly. Rich top-dressings of decayed stable manure, marl, and leaves are safe at all seasons. If severe frosts occur when the plants are in flower they must be protected with some dry material, as hexagon, or other light and close netting, particularly in exposed situa- tions. Previous to the fruit ripening, it is a good plan, in the case of early sorts, to lay tiles, or bricks, or circular drain- pipes, around the plants, and, for the general crop, to mulch the surface of the ground with strawy manure, or clean straw. Short grass, if free from seeds and slugs, may also be used, although many objections are urged against it. Any of those plans serves to keep the soil from cracking and the fruit clean, and the former especially adds to the ripening, by retaining and slowly giving out solar heat. In dry weather a thorough watering will aid the swelling of the fruit, but is seldom necessary if the soil is deep and rich. THE STRAWBERRY. 19 It is very common that just after the fruit-gathering is over, a time of drought occurs ; and this, also, is usually a time when the Strawberry-beds are sorely neglected — not unlike the treatment which bulbs receive, after the bloom- ing season is over. Pray avoid this. Know, that now the plant repairs its wasted energies, and should be husband- ing up stores of strength for the next year’s crop, ere the sun, and light, and rains, and dews, lose their reviving in- fluences. Therefore, take at once, and use all runners where required, and remove the others entirely. Stir, clean, and top-dress the ground, that the plants may grow and ripen in autumn, rest in winter, and start in the fol- lowing spring with renewed vigour. STRAWBERRY PLANTS AS EDGINGS. Hautbois, and particularly the Red and White Alpines, are very suitable for edgings to alleys, and even to the princi- pal walks in the fruit and kitchen gardens. They combine beauty and utility in no ordinary degree. Such edgings need no more attention than those of box, and they cer- tainly make a better return. I have also used the stronger growing kinds with advantage. They may be planted from four to eight inches apart, and well manured. An objection may be urged, on the ground that such edgings do not keep the soil from the walks ; but the borders need not be higher than the walks, and box, and other edgings, are liable to the same objections. I have tried them for many situations, and am satisfied of their efficiency, profit, and general adaptation. In autumn, I have made use of Alpine Strawberries in fruit, to aid in giving character to the flower-glasses, vases, &c., when flowers were scanty. Groups of artificial fruits, as well as flowers, are not void of charms, when appropriately situated, and arranged. c 2 20 FRUIT CULTURE, DESCRIPTIONS OF STRAWBERRIES. It is worthy of remark that, from exhaustion attendant on heavy cropping, cultivation in poor soils, and other causes, there are, apparently, good and bad varieties of the same sorts. Hence, we have Beech's British Queen, as well as that of Myatt, the original raiser; and so with other [BLACK PRINCE.] 22 FRUIT CULTURE. sorts. My practice has been only to propagate from those plants which have proved themselves to possess good properties, by which means all traces of degeneracy have been lost, and we have thus secured an improved and im- proving stock. I recommend the four first mentioned kinds in the fol- lowing enumeration, as suitable for most purposes, and possessing a high degree of merit. Keens’ Seedling. — In flavour, colour, size, fruitfulness, and habit, first-class; hut in keeping, form, and firmness, it is surpassed by others. Early. The best for early forcing, and general culture. (See engraving , p. 20.^ British Queen (Myatt). — Very superior in flavour, colour, size, and firmness, if well grown ; tender in con- stitution, and does not hear early forcing ; rather clumsy in form, and not prolific generally. Excellent for show. (See frontispiece .) Black Prince (Cuthill). — In flavour, colour, habit, and bearing, good; size small. Valuable for its earliness, and well adapted for planting on warm borders and banks. {See engraving , p. 21.) Eleanor {Myatt) . — Flavour rather acid ; high-coloured, very large, of handsome conical form, prolific, and hardy ; later than the Queen, and hears forcing for a second early crop. It will grow in pots of smaller dimensions than most large sorts. The fruit keeps well, and is adapted for exhibition. A good sort for a main late crop out of doors. Should be in every collection. Adapted for market. Admiral Bundas {Myatt). — Similar to British Queen, but not nearly so good. Ajax {Nicholson). — Coarse in flavour and appearance in light soils, but said to be fine when grown in soils of a very heavy nature. Alice Maude {Trollope). — Flavour flat, hut pleasant; in colour, form, size, fruitfulness, and hardiness, good ; a very firm fleshed, and glistening fruit; bears carriage well. Adapted to show in collections of three. THE STRAWBERRY. 23 Alpine: Red, and White. — Flavour sharp and sweet, size small, but abundant and constant bearers. Valuable in autumn, keeping in bearing until frost comes. They are forced in some places for winter use. Bicton Pine [Barnes). — Flavour middling ; colour, white ; in size, bearing, and hardiness, good. Its colour gives va- riety in desserts and in collections, for which it is chiefly valuable Comte de Paris [Polvilian). — Flavourless, but beautiful in colour and form ; shape roundish ; dwarf in foliage, rather tender, and not prolific. A second early, size good, bears forcing, and looks well, but not profitable. Cinquefolia [Myatt) . — Flavour good ; colour, form, size, and habit, like British Queen, but more tender. Is best adapted for pot culture, but requires extra care, and cannot be depended on. Cox’s Hybrid. — Flavour acid, but a good late variety. Delices de VAutomne. — A thorough “ cheat,” introduced from Liege. Dickson’s Pine. — Flavour, that of the Old Pine ; flesh firm ; colour pale. Does not force well. Elton [Knight). — Flavour fair ; colour pale; form ovate; strong grower. Useful for its lateness. Goliath [Kitley). — Flavour middling; colour good; large ; not very prolific. A second early, with lanky fo- liage, and soft flesh, and, consequently does not bear car- riage well. Grove-end Scarlet. — Probably raised from the Pose- berry. Flavour good ; in colour, hardiness, and fruitful- ness, very good ; size middling ; early ; form, spherical. Esteemed for preserving. Hooper’s Seedling . — Flavour doubtful ; large ; in bear- ing and habit good. Mammoth [Myatt) . — Flavour insipid ; colour, good ; very large ; late, not prolific, very tender when in blossom, and a bad setter. Esteemed for its size, but fitful. 24 FRUIT CULTURE. Old Pine, or Carolina [Knight). — Flavour first-rate; colour scarlet ; form ovate ; moderate in size, not prolific, but highly esteemed by many. Omar Pacha . — Sharp flavour; scarlet colour; medium size. Does not force well, but approved of by some. Patrick’s Seedling. — Flavour sharp and good, but not the sugary richness of Keens’ ; colour and size, fair. A good bearer, and hardy. Prolific Hautbois. — Flavour peculiar, with a rich aroma. As the Muscat among grapes, so is the Hautbois among strawberries. It bears forcing well. The glaucous hue which comes over the ripening fruit is sometimes mistaken for mouldiness, by those not acquainted with it. This is the sort of which our fathers told us, and so justly praised. It is highly prized by connoisseurs. Not beautiful, but good. Size small. Prolific ( Myatt ). — Flavour passable. In colour, bear- ing, and habit, good. Princesse Roy ale [Polvilian). — Flavour acid, and not rich. Colour, size, and bearing, fair. Early ; but in no point first-rate. Cultivated extensively about Paris, where the climate may probably suit it. Prince of Wales [Ingram] . — In flavour and colour be- yond the average ; in habit, hardiness, and size, good ; not prolific nor handsome, but forces pretty well. Scarcely maintains its high character. Surprise [Myatt). — Flavour bad; colour sickly; extra size, often reaching two ounces in weight ; shape, reniform and lumpy ; prolific, with very soft foliage, and forces late. Stirling Castle. — Large and coarse, but esteemed by some. Swainstone Seedling. — Flavour and colour, fine; size middling ; form ovate ; in bearing and growth, fitful. Sir Harry. — Strong grower, hardy and fruitful; large, and forces fair ; of a dark mulberry colour. Scarlet Nonpareil. — One of the Old Pine class. A bad bearer ; tender ; said to be excellent for forcing. THE STRAWBERRY. 25 Sir Charles Napier . — Acid flavour and a little woolly ; first-rate in colour ; size very large ; vigorous grower. Will force with the Queen, and an excellent show strawberry, most useful for market. Victoria {Trollope). — Flavour rich, but not satisfying; sometimes watery; pale colour; large and globular in form; very hardy and vigorous, a moderate bearer, and soon over ; flesh soft. May be shown in a collection of three. Wellington. — An old variety in the way of Black Prince, hardy, and much grown in Yorkshire. When I say “ adapted for collections,” let it be under- stood, that in exhibitions of one or two dishes, no strawber- ries have so many points of excellence as the British Queen and Keens' Seedling ; so that, if they are well done, no other kind can compete successfully against them. It does sometimes occur, that both of the above sorts are so badly managed, that several kinds, with not half so many good properties, but well managed, are very properly placed before them, when placed in competition. For flavour, colour, size, and firmness, the British Queen, among our present sorts, may be taken as a standard. For form, the Comte de Paris. As to what constitutes fruit- fulness among forced strawberries, the following averages, taken on May 3rd, from six pots of each sort, after being thinned, will serve as a guide : — Keens' Seedling, 30 fruits ; Victoria, 20 fruits ; British Queen, 13 fruits. Out of doors, I have had Eleanor and others, with the fruit so abundant that it would have taken too long to count them. Observe, I said after being thinned ; for nothing is so easy as to have fifty, and, sometimes, even a hundred fruits set upon a plant. But the good gardener does not allow them to remain ; and this is one of the most difficult parts of fruit culture, namely, to know how many fruits the 26 FRUIT CULTURE. plant is capable of perfecting, and to have the courage , at an early stage, to remove, it may be, more than half. The exact number to leave can only be determined by the va- riety, the vigour of the plant, and size of pots. The following new sorts give promise ; but I have not proved them. It may be remarked that, in certain locali- ties some sorts do better than others, and, by extra atten- tion in any locality, an inferior sort be made to appear better than it really is. This affords one illustration among many which could be adduced, of the incalculable value of such gardens as that of the Horticultural Society, where all new fruits might be fairly tested, and fairly reported upon ; such reports proving, in some degree, a guide to the gar- dening public. NEW ENGLISH VARIETIES. Adair (Elphinstone) . — Obtained from “ Hooper’s Seed- ling,” and “ Hautbois,” and said to partake of the good properties of both parents. Black Prince Improved ( Cuthill ). — Said to be double the size, and having the other qualities of the older variety. Carolina Superba { Kitley ) . — From the Old Pine or Caro- lina, which it resembles, but is said to be better. The size is given as “ five inches in circumference.” I may here suggest that the weight is in most cases a surer guide. When “ Nimrod ” appeared, the measurement was given, but it seemed to have been measured over , not around, the cone; this “Nimrod’s” gallop was soon over. However, Kitley’ s new sort seems distinct and good. Exhibition {Nicholson). — Very large and showy. Filbert {Turner), alias MyatVs Seedling. — Flavour good ; medium size ; dwarf foliage, and continues in bearing. Magnum Bonum {Barrett) . — “ The best flavoured out.” Princess Royal {Cuthill). — This is quite distinct from Polvilain’s. Flavour superior; medium size; hardy and THE STRAWBERRY. 27 early. A good forcer. Sir Jasper Atkinson speaks highly of it. Prince of Wales {Cut hill ). — An enormous bearer; size good, and excellent both for table and preserving. Rival Queen ( Tiley ). — Said to do what the name indi- cates. Sir Walter Scott {Nicholson ). — Is being proved in France, Scotland, and in various parts of England, and expected to be first-rate. NEW FRENCH VARIETIES. Belle Bordelaise. — Said to be a “ hybrid between the Hautbois and Alpine.” Comptesse de Marnes ( Graindorge ). — “ Flavour excel- lent ; early ; great bearer.” Cremonfs Seedling. — “ Flavour good, handsome, large.” Marquise de Lalour Manhour g {Jamin and Durand ) . — “ Flavour very fine ; medium size.” NEW BELGIAN VARIETIES. Eoccellente {Lorio) } — “ Flavour good ; large and produc- tive.” La Reine {De Jonghe) . — “ Flavour fine ; colour white ; medium size.” Ne plus Ultra {De Jonghe) . — “ Flavour excellent ; colour very dark red ; abundant bearer.” NEW AMERICAN VARIETY. Triomphe. — “ Flavour first rate; size medium. The earliest.” A very good way to prove the flavour of new sorts is to gather a few of the best old sorts and new together; let two or more good judges be asked to taste and comment on their qualities without knowing the names of any. By so doing it will be found that several new sorts of great pre- tensions must still stand at a respectful distance behind the “ British Queen.” 28 FRUIT CULTURE. RAISING NEW STRAWBERRIES. It is not difficult to raise the plants, but to have a fair prospect of obtaining new and improved sorts, some pains- taking is necessary. Late sorts, for out- door culture, are more required than early ones, because our climate would not allow them, with safety, to flower sooner than our present sorts do. The following hints may be useful Choose, as the female parent, a sort of good habit and form ; remove from its flowers all the anthers before they burst or shed their pollen over the stigma : about the time these would have burst, collect the pollen, or dust from another plant (which may be called the male parent), one of good parts, as to colour, flavour, size, &c . ; touch lightly the stigma, or sum- mit of the style, when waxy, with the pollen collected, and the work is done. To prevent bees, or the winds, undoing the work which has been taken in hand, it is usual to cover up the flower operated with for a day or two with gauze, or with a hand-glass, before and after the operation. Pollen, if in a dry state, will keep. The seeds, when ripe, which is just when the fruit is fully matured, may be either sown at once, or kept until the following spring. Much time is saved in the case of most seeds which are saved with the view of raising new sorts, by sowing shortly after they are gathered. I have raised several new sorts, but none of them were better than some already grown. The Alpines, at Arundel, were regu- larly raised from seeds every spring, and, when sown in heat, the plants bore freely the same year ; but we dis- continued the practice. A large field is open for the improvement of new fruits. THE STRAWBERRY. 29 The florist, with his pansies, pinks, dahlias, &c., is a fast man compared with the pomologist. It is upwards of thirty years since Keens’ Seedling was raised, and this sort is not yet surpassed, if equalled. This kind is said to have realised a fortune to the raiser. I have been told it first came into public notice in 1823, or, ’24, at a dinner of the Horticultural Society of London, held at the Freemasons’ Tavern, and created quite a sensation. I am very anxious to direct the thoughts of the amateur, and of the cottager, too, however, humble his station, to this field which is comparatively unoccupied. Let me again suggest that the aim should not be so much an in- crease of the size of the fruit, as an infusion of improved flavour, higher qualities, new blood, so to speak, into existing varieties. All the materials are ready. For in- stance, let it be tried to combine the matchless flavour of the old Hautbois with the good qualities of Keens’ Seed- ling, or the British Queen, or those of the hardy, handsome, large, and fruitful Eleanor. What an advance will thus be made l Let but the aims be right, and the touches masterly, catch the strain, and say, “ I shall have it,” and we may soon have a strawberry surpassing what the Ribston is among Apples, or the Bonchretien among Pears. But do not expect to succeed instantly. Be satisfied if, in the seedlings, you can Only discern the pro- perties you wish. Destroy all but those of good parts, which keep for further trial. In no department of gardening, does there seem such scope for perseverance, assiduity, and reward; but much patience and skill are necessary to ensure success. A variety of views are entertained regarding impregnation, and the power which the parent plants have over the off- spring, regarding which, eminent men have arrived at 30 FRUIT CULTURE. different conclusions. But no instruction will teach so well,, so much, nor so quickly, as practice. Be nothing daunted by failures. INSECTS AND OTHER DEPREDATORS. The insects to which the Strawberry is most subject, are the Bed Spider, the Green Fly, and a green Caterpillar. A dry atmosphere usually favours the spider, and cold winds the fly, while the presence of caterpillars may be referred to the visits of the butterflies. A vigorous, healthy plant, in a moist, congenial atmo- sphere, which is not stagnant, is not readily attacked by insects. Tobacco smoke, and syringings witji tobacco-liquor, and dustings with Scotch snuff, effectually kill aphides or green fly. Gidney's fumigator is useful, also Newington^s aphidis powder. My usual method of applying smoke is, to collect the plants (if they are out of doors, or in a large place, which does not require fumigating), and place them in shallow frames or pits. The smoke may he applied by putting a few live coals, or pieces of charcoal, into a wire sieve, or iron, or other pot, with a hole by the side, at its base, to admit the point of the bellows. Over the live coals the tobacco paper is spread, and, in many cases, for frames, no bellows are required. Where there are gratings in the house, or pit, just place the fire and tobacco at once on the grating. Repeated, and mode- rate smoking, for two nights in succession, are better than one severe application. Mats, or other coverings, are very useful in preventing the escape of the smoke. It is a good plan, also, to choose a close, not airy, evening for the opera- THE STRAWBERRY. 31 tion, and, previous to smoking, water or syringe the house, to keep the air heavy, and fill up the crevices. Syringing, and sponging with sulphured and soapy water, must be re- sorted to for the spider, and hand-picking for the caterpillar. As the caterpillar is usually of the same colour as the leaves, they require a sharp eye to detect them. Bear in mind the maxim, that to keep clean is better than to make clean. Persevere with the remedies if the plants do become dirty, and keep a constant look out for various other enemies. The Ant is oftentimes very troublesome just as the fruit is ripening. The attacks of these insects are not unlike those of mice. Their haunts should be traced out for the purpose of destroying them ; a sprinkling of guano will do this, and, as an additional precaution, a little sulphur should be dusted around the plant, over which they do not readily pass. Slugs and Snails may be destroyed by dustings and waterings of hot lime. They may also be trapped by cab- bage, lettuces, or other leaves, laid on the ground, under which they creep. Bran and barley awnings are also traps ; sand is a preventive, and so is stirring the soil often. Where they are very troublesome attend to strewing some hot lime or bran around the plants on which are the choice fruits. The “ spittle insect” is often troublesome on forced plants, which must be gathered by the hand ; it is found in the very centre of the “ spittle.” I have seen whole planta- tions destroyed by a “grub worm” eating the roots; these should be caught when the ground is being trenched, and looked for at the first sight of a yellow leaf, by digging down to the roots of the plant. I repeat, never weary of persevering with the remedies, and be quick to observe the first attacks. 32 FRUIT CULTURE. The depredations of the wee Mouse must be specially mentioned. They are such, that the cultivator must not tire of trapping, poisoning, or somehow getting rid of these troublesome little animals. Net, scare, and “ herd” for birds. Where ground is plentiful, plant a few for their special use. The hexagon netting is very light, and can be laid over the foilage without stakes ; it is rather close, but often useful in subduing the glare of the sun, and retarding the ripening of the fruit in excessively hot weather. EXHIBITION HINTS. In preparing the Strawberry for exhibition, considerable foresight and attention is requisite, inasmuch as the fruit gets sooner ripe, and sooner decays than most others. In the warm months this is particularly the case. I have seen them ripen in two days after changing colour ; and, if the weather is unsettled, the occurrence of two dull days, or two bright ones, will often throw out the nicest calculations. The best remedy is, to have a sufficiency of plants, and to have them in warm and light, or shaded and cool situations, according to their various stages. If the pots or plants are few in number, then shade or expose the fruits separately, on the same pot or plant, using paper and forked sticks for this purpose. This shading, or keeping back the forward fruit, is a good plan when preparing Strawberries to be ex- hibited in pots, because the more ripe fruit which can be displayed at one time the better. By this means I have had thirty large ripe fruit at once on a plant. In high cul- ture, it frequently happens that very large fruits unex- pectedly make their appearance. These should be coaxed on, or retarded, so as to bring them in to the day ; half of THE STRAWBERRY. 33 the success depends on this. Avoid gathering the fruit until they are actually required. Those who live near the show-grounds have a great advantage in this respect, as the fresher the fruit are produced the better. In preparing the fruit for exhibition, it is well to go over the whole about ten days previous to the show, and then selecting the largest fruit, to slightly thin out the inferior fruits, and to keep back those which may be too early, by shading them with paper, cabbage-leaves, or by other means. Such sorts as the British Queen require to be lifted up on forked sticks the length of the truss, so as to expose them to the sun. Heat will not give colour, but warm air and sun will. The best way of ripening or colouring the British Queen to the very point, is to raise the fruit up, and expose it fully to the sun. Sometimes I have turned the fruits right over, but, by this means, there is a liability of twisting the stalk. The weight to which strawberries are grown, if of good sorts, and united with high colour , is one of the best marks of excellence in their cultivation. It is no uncommon thing to grow inferior but showy sorts, such as Myatt’s Mammoth, Surprise, &c., to upwards of two ounces, and I once grew a British Queen of four ounces in weight ; but a fair average of this last, as yet the best of strawberries, is one and a half ounces. Keens* Seedling, which, for general purposes, as forcing, &c., surpasses all that I know, is good at one ounce weight, but this size is certainly not very rare. In exhibiting the fruit, it is my plan to use shallow, oval, or circular baskets. These are raised in the centre with packing, so as to form a depressed half-globe, rather flat, not conical; and on this I place, first, a layer of cotton wool, then soft rough leaves, as those of coltsfoot, n 34 FRUIT CULTURE. the lime, or the vine, and then one layer of fruit, with a strawberry -leaf between each fruit. These are placed in circles, beginning at the rim of the basket. When finished, there is no packing put over them, but the baskets are care- fully placed in ventilated presses, on shelves made to fit, and from these they are lifted out, and placed on the show tables. This is preferable to the unpacking and dishing in the tent. Of course when they are sent in this way, a man is sent in charge of them, to see that the boxes are not over- turned or jostled. This is indispensable. In transmitting fruit to a distance, the same rules are observed as to packing, only the fruit is packed in level and square boxes, with a slight covering of leaves at top. Let me, in conclusion, urge on all who are engaged on the arduous duties of our profession, never to despair of attaining a high degree of excellence, if they set their aim high, and determine not to be behind, even in little matters. The Strawberries at Arundel, were not always fine, and the natural soil being chalky is not favourable to them. I well remember that I attempted to “ get up” some for show on first taking charge of the gardens; but, in passing a fruit shop after I got to London, on the evening before the exhibition, I there saw, to my mortification, better fruit than those I had brought. Feeling myself beaten for once, I determined not to exhibit them, but to try again, and ever after the fruit were worth exhibiting. The following awards, made in 1855, are a fair specimen of my success in cultivation for the last five years : — AT THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, LONDON. April 3rd. — For strawberries in pots — first prize. May 16th. — For the best three dishes— -first prize. November 20th — For the best single dish — first prize. THE STRAWBERRY. 35 AT THE CRYSTAL PALACE, SYDENHAM. June 2nd. — For the best single dish — first prize. „ For the best three dishes — first prize. AT THE ROYAL BOTANIC SOCIETY, LONDON. June 13th. — For the best two dishes — first prize. (This award was doubled, from the fruit being extra fine.) AT BRIGHTON. June 27th. — For the best dish — first prize. The foregoing awards were distinct from those made to the miscellaneous collections of fruits exhibited by me, in all of which first-class strawberries were included. These collections gained two first-class gold medals of the three awarded, and four other first-class awards. I feel enough, and more than enough, has been said of what has been done ; but I have mentioned these facts in order to show what has been the result, in my own case, of the method of culture I have endeavoured to explain ; and I shall feel sorry if I have not been explicit enough to show the way in which this has been accomplished. I frankly admit that with some there are insurmountable obstacles in the way of success, but it is also true that some have facilities who do not take advantage of them. Remember, there is truth in the saying, that “he is the best workman who does most with bad tools ; ” and we do well to test men by their means. Exhibitions are “great facts,” and to the objections urged against them I offer no reply, but I may say, what is self-evident, that he who places the best fruits and plants on the show tables, must, in the very nature of things, place plants and fruits of very superior quality on the tables of his employer ; for he it is who woos and wins the most 36 FRUIT CULTURE. from Nature's bounteous lap. It must not, however, be forgotten, that he who would make the most of circum- stances, and be thoroughly successful , must be prepared to meet with more sleepless nights, more toilsome days, more malicious envyings, more unrequited labour, more tempta- tions, more anxious thoughts, aye, and more unfair play, than most men. He must, moreover, be largely content with the simple satisfaction that he has attained points of excellence which aforetime had been thought unattainable ; that he has moulded a thing of beauty, and brought to earth an increase of joy; and he must not faint but hope on, and work on, for yet a little while, and better days draw nigh, if in all things which are lovely and worthy of " honourable mention," “ each to-morrow finds him fur- ther than to-day." Methinks I hear the cottager, and others of less preten- sions than the nobleman's gardener (who can prove, and even cultivate his twenty varieties, and upwards) remark, that much of what I have said does not apply to their small “ bits " of garden ground. They may think, that to talk of first potting the young plants in thumb-pots for out- door culture, and to take such like pains through the whole course of cultivation, is simply nonsense. I grant that trenching, or forking so deeply, planting so widely apart, and manuring so richly, and using such pots, may not be practicable in the case of many small growers ; but, never- theless, I have only recommended a proved way — one which may be applied to the fullest extent by not a few ; and every grower, small and great, must be told, if he does not know, that to drain thoroughly, to dig — or what is better — to fork deeply, to manure freely, to allow no preventible check in the progress of growth, and to suffer no plant, either in its foliage, or at its roots, to interfere with an- THE STRAWBERRY. 37 other, but to allow the sun and air to play freely about them, are conditions which must be attended to, in order to attain enough of success to surpass common place produc- tions. As a general principle, it is well to concentrate the attention on one or two good sorts. And here allow me to say, that the amateur, the man of small means, and even the cottager, might — I had almost said, ought — to excel the nobleman's gardener; for this obvious reason, that the larger the garden, and the greater the variety of fruits cultivated in it, just so much the more is the attention of the great gardener necessarily distracted. I can easily conceive of an energetic man, with his atten- tion fixed on fifty plants or so, to be in a good position to surpass him who has fifty times that number, with fifty other different fruits, in proportionate quantities, to divide his attention. Thus, the common remark of having, “ no chance with a man of such means," is not so forcible as may at first sight appear. Be assured that the mind to plan, and the hand to execute, must not needs dwell in any particular country, nor garden, nor locality, if so be that merit and excellence are tested by discrimination and im- partiality. Competitive examinations are happily becom- ing less and less blasted by favouritism and incompetency, both as to kinds, and the knowledge of what constitutes real superiority. This is scarcely the place to talk of niches, and laurels, and fame ; but it is never out of place to be pointing and leading the way to fields, where even the “ strawberry girl " may have her sphere of usefulness, and which we all may better occupy. Undoubtedly, — and apart from all senti- ment and fancy, — the raiser of such a strawberry as “ Keens' Seedling," has added not a little to the world's bliss, and to the growth of the feelings of our better nature. Let 38 FRUIT CULTURE. this fruit then be improved in kind, and increased in quality and quantity, that in our halls of plenty this cool- ing fruit may impart a harmless pleasure, and that by its refreshing richness the palate of our thirsty sons of toil may be satisfied and made glad. And, oh, cultivate enough, and so well, that you may oft’ go and gather the large and beautiful ripe ones, and carry or send them with care to the bedside or sick-room, where there are dry and parched tongues, and where there are, also, hearts that such pre- sents will fill with gratitude, so full and big, as to send their returning thanks, in looks and thoughts, if not in words, further than earth’s bounds ! I must not dwell on the healthy tendency, both to mind and body, which springs from such exercise as applied to out-door culture, nor of how the organic and material may be blended, and made to minister to our higher wants. This is not my province. I trust enough has been shadowed forth to incite to persevering and steady action , — so much so, as to improve upon the suggestions humbly offered. May such improvements extend to the “ yard” beside the humble cot; to the bricked-up, yet breathing spots, around our crowded cities ; to the villas and villages, also, as well as to the gardens near the hall, the castle, and the palace ; for in each and all there is room, and a voice calling to progress. GROOMBRIDGE BROTHERS, 1‘RINTERS, EXETER-STREET, STRAND. INDEX. Alpine Strawberries Ants, to destroy Autumn bearing beds Autumn dressing of beds Awards for Strawberries Horticultural Society Crystal Palace Regent’s Park Brighton Birds, depredators Caterpillars, to prevent injury from . . 30 Cottagers capabilities . 36 Drainage in pot culture . 7 Earliest crops, sorts for . 10 „ treatment of . 10 „ successional sup- ply for . 11 19—28 31 11—15 18 34 35 35 35 32 Edgings, Strawberries as 19 Exhibition hints . 32 Exhibition, arrangement of fruit for . . 33 „ packing for . 34 „ preparing fruits for . . 32 Exhibitions, effects of . 35 Flavour, to test in new sorts .... 27 Flavouring the fruit . 3 January 10 Forcing the Strawberry . 2 February . 10 Forcing plants, treatment March 11 of ... 12 April . 11 „ shifting . 12— -14 May . 11 „ size of pots for 14 June . *11- -12 „ maturing of . 14 July . 14 „ restoring of . 15 August 14 „ storing of 15 September . 14 Fruitfulness of forced plants 25 October 14 Green fly, to destroy 30 November . 15 Grub, injurious 31 December . 15 Hotbed culture 4 Carriage, packing for 34 Improvement of fruits, thoughts on 28 Insects and depredators . 30 Keens’ Seedling Strawberry 29 Later forced crops . 1 1 ,, sorts for . 14 Layering for forcing plants 12 „ season of 12 INDEX. PAGE. Liquid manure, applica- tion of 9 Liquid manure, prepara- tion of 9 Manures lor top dressings 18 Maturing fruit, time re- quired for, in forcing . 15 Mouse, a depredator . 32 Mulching and surface covering . . . 18 Native country of the Strawberry . . 1 Neglect after fruit bearing 19 New varieties, raising . 28 „ notes descriptive of 26 — 29 Open air culture . . 16 Origin of cultivated varie- ties .... 1 Perseverance, incitements to . . 34—37—38 Planting season for beds 16 Potting .... 6 „ manner of . 7 „ season for . . 12 Protecting materials 18—32 Red spider, to destroy . 30 Ridge culture . . 17 Seed sowing . . 28 Slugs and snails, to destroy 31 Soil for pot culture PAGE. 5 „ open air culture . 16 Space required, in beds . 17 Spittle insect, to destroy . 31 Standard sorts for high quality 25 „ for flavour 25 „ for size 25 „ for weight 33 Stove, advantages of, in forcing 4 ,, disadvantages of, in forcing 3 Strawberries for edgings 19 Structures adapted for forcing 2—5 Thinning the crowns of the plants . 18 Varieties of Strawberry, description of . 20 — 27 11 the best . 22 71 new English . 26 71 new French . 27 17 new Belgian . 27 71 new American 27 11 # raising new 28 Watering . 8* Weight of fine fruit 33