NEAREST THE POLE THE GEOGRAPHICAL LIBRARY The Opening of Tibet, By Perceval Landon Flashlights in the Jungle, By C. G. Schillings The Passing of Korea, By Homer B. Hulbert Fighting the Polar Ice, By Anthony Fiala Nearest the Pole, By "R.. E. Peary, U. S. N. "NEAREST THE POLE" COMMANDER ROBERT E. PEARY PLANTING THE AMERICAN FLAG LATITUDE 87° 6', APRIL 31, 1906 Painted by Albert Operti, from photogfraphs Nearest the Pole A Narrative of the Polar Ex- pedition of the Peary Arctic Club in the S. S. Roosevelt, 1905-1906 By R. E. PEARY, U. S. N fFitk ninety -five photographs by the author, two maps and a frontis- piece in colour by Albert Operti New York Doubleday, Page & Company 1907 ^^■=5. ■p- Copyright, 1907, by DooBLEDAY, Page & Company Published, April, 190' All Rights Reserved ncluding that of translation into foreign languages Including the Scandinavian TO HER WHO HAS BEEN MY CONSTANT AID AND INSPIRATION AND HAS BORNE THE BRUNT OF IT ALL 1 * W760 INTRODUCTION The Address of President Roosevelt on his presentation of the Hubbard Medal of the National Geographic Society to Commander Robert E. Peary, at the annual banquet of the Society, December 15, 1906. / count myself fortunate in having been asked to he present this evening at such a gathering and on behalf of such a society to pay a tribute of honour to an American who emphatically deserves well of the commonwealth. Civilised people usually live under conditions of life so easy that there is a certain tendency to atrophy of the hardier virtues. And it is a relief to pay signal honour to a man who by his achievements makes it evident that in some of the race, at least, there has been no loss of hardy virtue. I said some loss of the hardier virtues. We will do well to recollect that the very word virtue, in itself, origin- ally signifies courage and hardihood. When the Roman spoke of virtue he meant that sum of qualities that we characterise as manliness. INTRODUCTION / emphatically believe in peace and all the kindred virtues. But I think that they are only worth having if they come as a consequence of possessing the combined virtue of courage and hardihood. So I feel that in an age which naturally and properly excels, as it should excel, in the milder and softer qualities, there is need that we should not forget that in the last analysis the safe basis of a successful national character must rest upon the great fighting virtues, and those great fighting virtues can be shown quite as well in peace as in war. They can be shown in the work of the philanthropist; in the work of the scientist; and, most emphatically of all, in the work of the explorer, who faces and overcomes perils and hardships which the average soldier never in his life knows. In war, after all, it is only the man at the very head who is ever lonely. All the others, from the subordinate generals down through the privates, are cheered and sustained by the sense of companionship and by the sense of divided responsibility. You, the man whom we join to honour to-night, you, who for month in and month out, year in and year out, had to face perils and overcome the greatest risks and difficulties with resting on your shoulders the undivided respon- sibility which meant life or death to you and your followers — you had to show in addition what the modern commander with his great responsibility does not have to show. You had to show all the moral qualities in war, together with other qualities. You did a great deed, a deed that counted for all mankind, a deed which reflected credit upon you and upon your country; and on behalf of those present, and speaking also for the millions of your countrymen, I take pleasure in handing you this MORRIS K. JESUP INTRODUCTION Hubbard medal, and in welcoming you home from the great feat which you have performed, Commander Peary. Peary's reply to President Roosevelt on the presen- tation of the Hubbard Medal of the National Geo- graphic Society, December 15, 1906, President Roosevelt: In behalf of the Peary Arctic Club and its president, Morris K. Jesup, I beg to express our deep appreciation of the great honour conferred by the National Geographic Society in this award of its gold medal, and the double honour of receiving this medal from your hand. Your continued interest, Mr. President, your permis- sion to name the club's ship after you, and your name itself have proved a powerful talisman. Could I have foreseen this occasion, it would have lightened many dark hours, but I will frankly say that it would not, for it could not, have increased my efforts. The true explorer does his work not for any hopes of reward or honour, but because the thing he has set himself to do is a part of his being, and must be accomplished for the sake of the accomplishment. And he counts lightly hardships, risks, obstacles, if only they do not bar him from his goal. To me the final and complete solution of the Polar mys- tery which has engaged the best thought and interest of some of the best men of the most vigorous and enlightened nations of the world for more than three centuries, and to-day quickens the pulse of every man or woman whose veins hold red blood, is the thing which should be done for the honour and credit of this country, the thing which it is intended that I should do, and the thing that I must do. INTRODUCTION The result of the last expedition of the Peary Arctic Club has been to simplify the attainment of the Pole •fifty per cent., to accentuate the fact that man and the Eskimo dog are the only two mechanisms capable of meeting all the varying contingencies of Arctic work, and that the American route to the Pole and the methods and equipment which have been brought to a high state of perfection, during the past fifteen years, still remain the most practicable means of attaining that object. Had the past winter been a normal season in the Arctic region and not, as it was. a particularly open one throughout the Northern hemisphere, I should have won the prize. And even if I had known before leaving the land what actual conditions were to the northward, as I know now, I could have so modified my route and my dis- position of sledges that I could have reached the Pole in spite of the open season. Another expedition following in my steps and pro- fiting by my experience cannot only attain the Pole; but can secure the remaining principal desiderata in the Arctic regions, namely, a line of deep sea soundings through the central Polar Ocean, and the delineation of the unknown gap in the northeast coast line of Greenland from Cape Morris Jesup to Cape Bismarck. And this work can be done in a single season. As regards the belief expressed by some that the attaimnent of the North Pole possesses no value or in- terest, let 7ne say that should an American first of all men place the Stars and Stripes at that coveted spot, there is not an American citizen at home or abroad, and there are millions of us, but what would feel a little better and a INTRODUCTION little protider of being an American; and just that added increment of pride and patriotism to millions^ would of itself alone he worth ten times the cost of attaining the Pole. President Roosevelt, for nearly four centuries the world dreamed of the union of the Atlantic and Pacific. You have planted the Stars and Stripes at Panama and insured the realisation of that dream. For over three centuries the world has dreamed of solving the mystery of the North. To-night the Stars and Stripes stand nearest to that mystery, pointing and beck- oning. Andy God willing, I hope that your adminis- tration may yet see those Stars and Stripes planted at the Pole itself. For, between those two great cosmic boundaries, the Panama Canal and the North Pole, lie the heritage and the stupendous future of that giant whose destinies you guide to-day, the United States of America. ANNOUNCEMENT New York, March 30, 1907 The Peary Arctic Club at a recent meeting resolved unanimously to place the Roosevelt on dry dock for a refitting, and to subsequently tender the same to Commander Peary for a final attempt to be made by him to reach the North Pole. Believing Commander Peary will be successful, the Club has taken this action, and they have every confidence in the gallant and intrepid American, and share in the pride that must animate the American people to see planted at the North Pole the American flag. The Peary Arctic Club asks the aid of those who have heretofore con- tributed, as well as the co-operation and aid of all or any who are inter- ested in this patriotic enterprise. The expense of this final expedition it is estimated will be one hundred thousand dollars. Morris K. Jesup, President. New York, March 30, 1907 The fact, as indicated in Mr. Jesup's letter, that the Peary Arctic Club hopes to send out another Polar Expedition the coming summer, will, I trust, be ac- cepted as an excuse for any shortcomings in this volume. The writer has, from the day of his return, been under the stress of insistent and incessant demands, and in working and planning for the next campaign, has found it difficult and at times impossible to put this narrative of the compaign just finished, in the shape that would do full justice to himself and his publishers. CONTENTS PAGE Introduction vii CHAFTEK I. From New York to Etah 3 II. Etah to Cape Sheridan ...... 33 III. Autumn at Cape Sheridan 55 IV. Through the " Great Night " 73 V. Sheridan to the "Big Lead" 97 VI. From the "Big Lead" to 87° 6' N. Lat. . . .123 VII. From 87° 6' to the Greenland Coast . . . 139 VIII. Along the Greenland Coast to the Roosevelt . . .153 IX. Westward Over the Glacial Fringe of Grant Land . 173 X. Westward Over the Glacial Fringe of Grant Land Continued 195 XI. The Return from "Farthest West" . . . . 219 XII. Cape Sheridan to Etah 247 XIII. Etah to New York 265 XIV. The Peary Arctic Club 285 XV. Report of Expedition of 1 898-1 902 . . . . 295 XVI. The Roosevelt 355 XVII. My Eskimos 375 Index . . 393 ILLUSTRATIONS "Nearest the Pole": Commander Robert E. Peary Planting the American Flag, Latitude 87** 6', April 21, 1906 (Coloured) .... Frontispiece FACING PAGE Commander Robert E. Peary viii Morris K. Jesup ix Steward Percy 6 Dr. Wolf ^ 6 Commander Peary 6 Captain Bartlett 6 Mr. Marvin 6 Mate Bartlett 9 Chief Engineer Wardwell 9 Matthew Henson 9 "Bo'sun" Murphy 9 The Sailors 9 The Firemen 9 Interior of Peary's Cabin Aboard the "Roosevelt" 12 A Melville Bay Iceberg 15 Typical Whale Sound Glacier 15 OoMUNUi, the Peculiar Peak at the Entrance of the North Star Bay 22 Coaling at Etah 25 Transferring Walrus Meat at Etah .... 25 The Auxiliary S. S. "Erik" in the Harbour of Etah 26 The Barrier at Cape Collinson 29 Entering the Smith Sound Ice 36 Open Water Off Cape Lupton 36 The Squeeze Near "The Gap" 39 Bringing Off the "Polaris" Boat from Boat Camp, Newman Bay 40 xvii xviii NEAREST THE POLE FACING PAGB Cape Sumner, Greenland 43 Birthday Cape, Wrangel Bay, Grinnell Land . . 43 The "Roosevelt" Immediately After Arrival at Cape Sheridan 64 The Alert's Cairn, at Floeberg Beach .... 67 Petersen's Grave, Overlooking Floeberg Beach . . 67 Cape Sheridan AND the Polar Ocean 74 The "Roosevelt" at Cape Sheridan, After a South- erly Gale 77 A Day's Hare Shooting at Sheridan 80 Return of Hunting Party from Cape Henry with First Specimens OF New Reindeer 80 Last View of the Sun, Black Cape, October 12, 1906 . 83 Shaping the Runners 84 Eskimos Making Sledges on Board the "Roose- velt" 84 Salmon Trout FROM Lake Hazen 87 Eskimos Fishing on Lake Hazen 87 Moonlight View of the "Roosevelt" in Winter Quarters at Cape Sheridan 88 The Bow OF the "Roosevelt" IN Winter Quarters . 91 Weighing Musk-Ox Meat 98 Reindeer AND MusK-Ox Meat IN THE Rigging . . 98 Crossing Feilden Peninsula 101 Cape Hecla WITH Cape Joseph Henry in THE Distance . 102 Captain Bartlett AT Cape Hecla 105 DelayCamp AT THE "Big Lead," 84^38' .... 106 Eskimo Drawings Made at Storm Camp .... 109 A Sample OF THE Arctic Pack 156 As They Rounded up the Herd of Musk-Oxen, Nare's Land 159 After the Killing , 159 Egingwah and the Morris K. Jesup Sledge . . 174 My Entire Western Party on the Road to Cape Columbia i74 ILLUSTRATIONS xix PACING PAGB The Twin Peaks at Cape Columbia With the Morris K. Jesup Sledge IN THE Foreground . . . 177 Live Bull Musk-Ox at Close Quarters, Cape Columbia 178 MusK-Ox AT Cape Columbia 181 The Alpine Summit of Cape Colgate 196 Cape Thomas Hubbard. Northern Extremity of Jesup Land. (Heiberger Land of Sverdrup's) . . . 199 Cape Colgate. Northwestern Angle of Grant Land . 199 Egingwah AND Reindeer AT Cape Hubbard . , . 220 Crossing A Stream on the Glacial Fringe . . . 223 OurCamponLand West OF Aldrich's Farthest . . 223 Typical Eskimo Dog 236 The Crush Near Cape Union. Where the "Roosevelt" Lost Rudder, Stern-post, AND Part OF Propeller . 239 Sipsu AND His Family. Returning to the Ship from Fort Conger 240 The "Roosevelt" Forced Aground IN Wrangel Bay . 243 The "Roosevelt" IN Wrangel Bay 243 Eskimo Family Going Ashore at Lady Franklin Bay FOR Winter AT Fort Conger 250 Taking Soundings IN Kane Basin 253 Bringing the Bear TO THE Ship 254 Polar Bear Killed in Kane Basin 254 The Ship Beached for Repairs at the Head of Etah Fiord 257 View OF THE Stern 262 Eskimo Houses AT KooKAN 265 Cape York, 76° North Latitude. Northern Limit OF Melville Bay, and Most Southerly Settlement OF the Whale Sound Eskimos 266 Hanging our New Rudder AT Hopedale .... 269 Sawing Wood TO Feed THE Furnaces 269 HuLDA, A Labrador Eskimo Girl AT Nain .... 272 Hopedale. Moravian Missionary Station on the Labrador Coast 275 XX NEAREST THE POLE PACING PAGB OoBLOOYAH, Young Eskimo Man of about Twenty- three ......... 276 A Group of Eskimo Women ...... 279 Head of Rangifer Pearyi, Allen . i . . . 346 Eskimos of the " Farthest North" Party . . . 349 Captain Chas. B. Dix, Builder of the " Roosevelt" . 356 The " Roosevelt " on Her Trial Trip, June, 1905 . . 356 The Peary Arctic Club's S. S. " Roosevelt" . . . 359 A Study in Bronze; Typical Face of Eskimo Woman . 366 Ahweahgoodloo, Four-year-old Eskimo Girl . . 369 Inuaho, Eskimo Girl 376 Akatingwah, Wife of Ooblooyah . . . ^ . 379 Detail Map of the Polar Regions showing the routes and Explorations of Robert E. Peary, U. S. N. from 1892 TO 1906; and General Map of the North Polar Regions end NEW YORK TO ETAH NEAREST THE POLE CHAPTER I FROM NEW YORK TO ETAH WHEN an expedition starts for distant and mysterious regions for an uncertain length of time, and particularly when its objective point is the frozen heart of the Arctic Circle, it is natural that those who know and are interested in its objects and plans should turn with interest to its personnel and its surroundings and environment while en route to the scene of action. The opening scenes of an Arctic voyage are com- paratively familiar to those conversant with Arctic literature. The main features of the play are much the same: A crowded and littered ship, regrets at leaving, confusion, and, if the weather be decent, an effort to get into shape, or, if the weather be bad, a surrender by most of the party to abject misery in cramped quarters. In the present instance, some of these features were en- tirely absent, and others appeared only in a mild form. Experience and a roomy ship almost completely obviated the lumbering of the decks, beyond the in- evitable and inseparable feature of the coal, a portion of which must at first always be carried on deck. Such few things as were dumped on deck at the last 3 4 NEAREST THE POLE moment, were quickly and readily disposed of; and quarters specially arranged for the party and on deck, insured fair room for each member of the expedition. As to regrets, no pronounced symptoms were notice- able in the others, and I had made the voyage too often to consider it more than a trip to Europe. Under these favourable circumstances let us look at the personnel of the party whose home for an uncertain length of time, in the ice of the Polar Sea, was to be the good ship Roosevelt. First the captain, Robert A. Bartlett, sailing master and ice navi- gator, who was 30 years of age, 5 feet 10^ inches tall, and weighed 174 pounds. Bartlett is one of the new generation of Bartletts, a hardy family of New- foundland sailors and navigators, almost all of whom have been associated with Arctic work. A great uncle was master of the Tigress when that ship picked up the drifting floe party of the Polaris expedition; two uncles, Samuel and John, were respectively master and mate of the Panther in which Hayes and Bradford visited Melville Bay; recently Captain Sam was master of the Canadian Government steamer Neptune, which wintered in Hudson Bay; and both of these, as well as Harry, a younger uncle, had been masters of my ships during one or the other of my sev- eral voyages north. Robert was mate in the Windward in the expedition of '98 to '99. Blonde, smooth-shaven and close-cropped, stockily built and clear-eyed, he had already been farther north in these regions than any of the other Newfoundland ice masters, and his youth, ambition, and the Bartlett blood all counted in his favoiir. FROM NEW YORK TO ETAH 5 Moses Bartlett, mate, a second cousin of the captain, was 47 years old, 6 feet high, and weighed 184 pounds. He had already been as far north as Cape Sabine three times; twice as mate of my ships and once as mate of the Neptune, and had also spent a year on this ship in Hudson Bay in the employ of the Canadian Government. Weather-beaten, griz- zled, and keen of eye, he was regarded as one of the best of the Newfoundland ice pilots. George A. Wardwell, chief engineer, was a native of Bucksport, Maine, 44 years of age, 5 feet 11 inches tall, and weighed 240 pounds. Acting as engineer in the shipyard in which the Roosevelt was built and intimately employed in her construc- tion, he was deeply interested in her proposed work and anxious to join the expedition. His phlegmatic temperament, and evident capacity for work, com- bined with non-use of liquor and tobacco, were all strong points in his favour. John Murphy, boatswain, was a native Newfound- lander, 31 years of age, 5 feet 11 inches tall, and weighed 165 pounds. Sailor and fisherman from the age of eighteen, he had also been as far north as Cape Sabine on the Neptune and had wintered with her in Hudson Bay. Murtaugh J. Malone, assistant engineer, was a native of Portland, Maine, 49 years of age, 5 feet 7 1 inches tall, and weighed 150 pounds. Dr. Louie J. Wolf, surgeon of the Expedition, was a native of Oregon, 30 years of age, 5 feet 9 inches tall, weighed 150 pounds, was a graduate of the Cooper Medical College, San Francisco, California, 6 NEAREST THE POLE becoming later House Surgeon at St. Vincent's Hospital, Portland, Oregon, and still later Assistant Attending Physician at the Cornell University Medical College, and of the outdoor medical dispensary of Bellevue Hospital. Ross G. Marvin, secretary and assistant, was a native of Elmira, N. Y., a graduate of Cornell University, 25 years of age, 6 feet tall, and weighed 160 pounds. Subsequently he had three years of naval training on board the school ship St. Mary's. Charles Percy, my steward, was a native of New- foundland, 54 years of age, 5 feet 10 inches high, and weighed 180 pounds. He had previously made a summer voyage as far north as Cape Sabine in my ship the Diana in 1899, and later had spent two years with Mrs. Peary and myself at Cape Sabine, from 1900 to 1902. Subsequently he had been in my em- ploy as resident in charge of Eagle Island. Matthew Henson, my personal attendant, was a coloured native of the District of Columbia, 39 years of age, 5 feet 6% inches high, and weighed 145 pounds. In my employ in one capacity or another most of the time since I took him to Nicaragua with me in 1888, and a member of all of my Arctic expeditions, his qual- ity and capabilities were fully known. The crew and firemen, with the exception of one of the latter, Charles Clark, a native of Massa- chusetts, were natives of Newfoundland, of the usual type of sailors and sealers common to that island. One of the firemen had been with me on the Eagle in 1886, and previously to that had been on one of the whalers in search of the Greely party in 1883. Another fireman had been north with me in the Hope 1 1 ^i^jj^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^B ■ ■ X^^^ ^H r* Aa i ^^^1 ^^■K, '«' ^^ "■-''^^H ■ ii ir"*^""^is^iH m ^ ^ - ' ^ — ^gm ^ % "^ t^ ^^^^^^1 ^Bhl.^. .jIHI^B ^^BE^S """^^^H ^^^^^^^^■ivT^^ i^'^'gH HgH l^^s^^^fl E^Mi Wj^^l>. mm / V^. . ^IS^Mt - far MATE BARTLETT CHIEF ENGINEER WARDWELL MATTHEW HENSUN 'BO'SUN" MURPHY THE SAILORS THE FIREMEN FROM NEW YORK TO ETAH 9 in 1898, and one of the sailors had made a voyage to Hudson Bay. Next after the personnel of the Expedition comes their environment. In the present case no member of the party was quartered below deck. The after cabin for officers, close down against the propeller post, and the forecastle for the crew, down in the eyes of the ship forward, to be found in all the old-fashioned ships, and even in those recently built for Arctic work, were lack- ing on the Roosevelt, and in their stead were light, roomy accommodations on deck. As to the furnishings of the rooms there was little to be said. Beginning forward, it is well known that Jack, particularly if a Newfoundland sealer, does not take much bric-a-brac to sea with him, his outfit comprising only his clothes and his bedding. There were therefore no oil paintings or etchings on the walls of the forward house. Two tiers of folding bunks, a stove, a table, and the seamen's chests for chairs, completed the list. The furnishings of the after house were hardly less simple. In the port saloon, which was lighted by two twelve- inch ports on the side, and a window looking forward, a leather-cushioned locker extended around three sides of the room; and this, with an extension table screwed to the floor, a clock, a little library presented to the ship by the Seaman's Friend Society, and a brief notice to the members of the Expedition, stating the object of the Expedition, what was expected of the members and what success would mean to them, completed the furniture. Here the ship's officers, except the captain, messed. lo NEAREST THE POLE In the captain's room, at the after end of the port side of the deck house, was a folding berth, a wash- basin, a table and a camp chair, and these, with the chronometer, a trunk, and several pictures and photos on the walls, completed its furnishing. At the after end of the starboard side of the deck house was my own room. This room, owing to the thoughtful care of Mrs. Peary and friends, was more luxuriously furnished than any room occupied by me on previous expeditions or than it would have been had I furnished it myself. The room (ioxi6) was also larger than I had ever had on a previous expedition. The room occupied by Mrs. Peary and myself at Redcliffe was 7x12 feet, and the one at Anniversary Lodge 8x18 feet. But one of the most annoying circumstances of the long Arctic winter is always the crowding of cramped quarters, the inability to move without knocking against something, the feeling of oppression. This, on top of the contracted horizon and feeling of com- pression from the protracted darkness, is at times almost intolerable, and in planning the Roosevelt quar- ters I felt that I was justified in giving myself a little more room. Two ports and a window looking aft lighted the room and, as in the captain's room, a door opened aft on to the quarter-deck, while another gave me direct access to the engine room. A berth, a table, and a chair, are of course essentials and were present. Then came the piece de resis- tance, the beautiful pianola given me by my friend H. H. Benedict. This, with a rack of nearly 150 music rolls, popular operas, marches, waltzes and rag- time. FROM NEW YORK TO ETAH n was screwed to the deck at the forward end of the room. Over it was a large framed portrait of the founder of the Expedition, Morris K. Jesup, flanked on either side by an etching of President Roosevelt and a photo of Judge Darling, Assistant Secretary of the Navy. In the forward comer was a stationary wash- stand, and on the inboard wall a series of shelves con- taining a small Arctic library, a few books of reference, and a few standard works of fiction. A chest of drawers, a cellarette, a table, a wicker easy chair from Mr. Jesup, a warm brown rug from Mrs. Peary, pictures of the home folks and home places, and Arctic maps upon the walls completed the fittings, not including a trunk and two chests of stores in the doctor's department, for which there was at present no room below decks. Wednesday, July 26th, '05. — All things come to an end at last, even the starting of this Expedition. The Roosevelt got away from the Terminal Pier at North Sydney at 2 p. m.* With the exception of the quarter-deck, which is loaded with bags of coal, to keep the ship from trimming too deep by the head, the deck is not nearly so badly littered and cumbered as on previous voyages. The cases of oil and a few miscellaneous casks are practically all that is not below hatches. We have on board something over 500 tons of coal, besides our supplies and equipment. In capacity, the Roosevelt comes fully up to my expectations. There is a quarter ♦Note. — The Roosevelt sailed from New York on July i6th, touched in at Bar Harbour to receive Mr. Jesup's "God-speed," then loaded with coal at Sydney, C. B. 12 NEAREST THE POLE of beef in the rigging, two or three sheep among the coal bags aft, and a tank and several casks of water on deck, besides the full tanks below. Once under way, I hope to make no stops this side of Cape York. It is already late in the season and every day now is precious. Percy, the steward, has purchased two small porkers, "Dennis" and "Mike," which are running contentedly about the deck, and if they escape the dogs, which is very doubtful, they may furnish us roast pork for our Christmas dinner. Outside the harbour a little swell caused by the easterly breeze taking the ship broadside on, sets her rolling a bit until she straightens out on her course to pass St. Paul's light. The next thing in order was the stowing of the miscellaneous packages which during the past days have been put in the various rooms, particularly my room, to prevent their getting mixed up with the pro- visions in the hold. This was readily accomplished by supper time, at least to the extent of permitting a passage through the room and allowing access to the bunk, the table, and a camp chair. Immediately after supper we ran into dense fog and are now ploughing our way through it across Cabot Strait, the southern gateway of the Gulf, blowing our whistle as if we were in Long Island Sound, for we are crossing the track of the inward- and outward-bound traffic. Thursday, July 2'jih. — Heavy thunderstorms last night with electrical accompaniments as vivid as those of Gulf storms on the southern voyages. PIANOLA PRESENTED BY H. H. BENEDiC 1 BOOKCASE AND WRITING TABLE INTERIOR OF PEARY'S CABIN ABOARD THE "ROOSEVELT" A MELMLLE BAY ICEBERG TYPICAL WHALE SOUXD GLACIER FROM NEW YORK TO ETAH 15 Passed Cape Anguille on the Newfoundland coast at breakfast time, and Red Island and the bold cliffs of Cape St. George after noon. Soon after dinner an alarm of fire was caused by the catching of one of the main deck-beams over the up- take from the boilers. A stream from one of the fire hose which was coupled on in readiness and needed but the opening of a valve to turn the water on, quickly extinguished the fire, which was apparently caused by the more gaseous nature of the Sydney coal, and the combustion and heat in the stack instead of in the boiler. It was then discovered that several sections of the water-tube boilers were leaking, and the fires were immediately drawn to let the boilers cool for examin- ation; the Roosevelt steaming along under the Scotch boiler only. The process of stowage both about the decks and in the rooms has continued to-day, and most of the oil has been put down in the forepeak. A fine day, though with occasional showers, and the Roosevelt as steady as if steaming up the North River. Friday, July 2Sih. — Continuance of the fine weather, running under Scotch boiler only all night and day. The engineers working on the Almys. The Chief to- night fears the damage is more serious than at first anticipated. At intervals during the day I have been comparing the readings of the log with the revolutions of the engines at varying speeds; with results fully up to my expectation. Another incipient fire in the same place was immediately extinguished, and I have had portions of the beams cut away and other means i6 NEAREST THE POLE taken to prevent a recurrence. At supper time we passed four or five small bergs which had come through the straits. Fine weather, with smooth sea till evening, when the fog shut down on us. Just before this, two large steamers passed us heading for the straits, and one hung out the sig- nal, "Wish you a pleasant voyage," to which we replied, "Good-bye." It is light now till 9 p. m., and it seems good to be again approaching the Arctic day. Saturday, July 2gth. — A dirty night. In the dense fog, which filled the Belle Isle graveyard of ships, Point Amour Light was invisible, until apparently hanging over our mast head, and then it was a matter of feeling our way from fog horn to fog horn through the Straits. We could hear two or three large steamers that were laying to, blowing their double blasts; and numbers of bergs added to the uncer- tainty and anxiety of the passage. Captain Bartlett and myself up all night. At break- fast time just north of Chateau Bay we ran out of the wall of fog into bright sunshine, and a field of beautiful icebergs. Cape York is 15 00 miles from here. Running northward all day, just off the Labrador coast, in alternate fog and sunshine. Have written two or three brief personal letters which we shall leave at Domino Run to-night, before heading across Davis Strait for Greenland. This is necessitated by the fog having shut us out of Chateau Bay and Battle Harbour, from which place our passing may have been reported to the home folks. FROM NEW YORK TO ETAH 17 Sunday, July T^oth. — Ran into Domino Run late last night without dropping anchor, and Captain Bart- lett pulled ashore with the letters, coming off again at once. He learned that the ice was against the coast as far down as Cape Harrigan. Going into the Run it was clear as a bell, and while lying to, waiting for the Captain's return, the stars twinkled as in winter, a biting wind whistled through the rigging, and a brilliant curtain aurora waved across the northern sky, while ashore the dogs were howling merrily. Pacing the bridge, these familiar sights and sounds stirred me with the call of the polar mystery. Might it not be possible that this breath, this presence, as it were, of the land of the "Great Night" was reaching down far beyond its usual haunts to greet and welcome my coming? When we steamed out, less than an hour after our arrival, the fog had settled down again, and the tem- porary jamming of the rudder chains while negotia- ting the narrow channel, caused a slight flurry, but resulted in nothing serious. Clear of the harbour, our course was set N. E. by E. to bring us to the Greenland coast, well up Davis' Strait. Dense fog all night and to-day, with very smooth sea. Several narrow shaves from icebergs during the night, but this morning we were in deep water, and clear of them. A light breeze from the southeast, just enough to fill our headsails, foresail, spanker and balloon stay- sails, but with no push to it. There will be no more sailing lights for us, side or masthead or stern. We are i8 NEAREST THE POLE beyond the world's highways now, and shall see no sail or smoke except our own, until we return. Monday, July 315/. — To-day the fog has cleared away a bit. The sea still very smooth, not even a swell. A very perceptible twilight throughout the night. To-night there will be no night. We are in the border-land of the region of the "Great Day." Tuesday, August 1st. — Continuance of fine weather and listless sea. At noon we are in the latitude of Cape Farewell and Cape Chidley, and about midway between them. A Brunnich's guillemot passed us flying south, and at 6 p. m. a small berg was visible a little west of our course. At supper time Chief Wardwell,who has been working over the Almy boilers for the past four days, hands me a report that makes matters look gloomy. I am seriously disturbed and perplexed. Have ordered a complete overhauling and pressure test of the boilers. Wednesday, Aug. 2d. — Another day of listless sea, and opening and clearing fog, with slowly rising barometer. Two bergs passed during the forenoon. Am feeling physically something like myself again. I did not realise until we were actually off, and the relaxation came, how nearly fagged out I was with the incessant work, and the last two weeks of intoler- able heat in New York. Were it not for our boilers I should feel very content. In the afternoon a "bo 'sun" bird, and numbers FROM NEW YORK TO ETAH 19 of kittiwakes were flying about the ship, and several guillemots in the water dove to let us pass. Thursday, Aug. ^d. — A foggy night and cold. This morning the sun shining through a low-lying fog, and a light, but particularly penetrating easterly breeze, the breath of the East Greenland ice inshore of us. The noon sights showed us a little south of Sukker- toppen, and at 2 p. m. an opening in the fog showed us the Sukkertoppen Islands on the starboard bow. We are past the East Coast ice without seeing a cake of it. Since supper dense fog. Friday, Aug. 4th. — Thick fog all night until about 6:30 A. M., when it began to lift, showing us the bold Greenland Mountains, near Holsteinburg. Not a piece of ice inshore or a berg in sight. We crossed the Arctic Circle at two o'clock this morn- ing, and Percy, the steward, asserts that the bump when the ship went over it, woke him up!! In regard to smoothness of sea, peacefulness of weather, entire absence of ice, and scarcity of bergs, the voyage from Sydney to the Arctic Circle has been most unusual even for this season of the year. With the exception of the few rolls just outside of Sydney Harbour, there has not been enough motion of the ship to spill a glass of water. The noon sights give us 67° 37' north latitude. The water, like glass, and the cliffs of Disco visible 95 miles away. In 68° we passed through a fleet of twenty-seven bergs, the output of the Disco Bay glaciers. During the afternoon a few 20 NEAREST THE POLE walrus and two whales were seen. The day has been one of typical Disco Bay summer weather. Saturday, Aug. $ih. — A perfect Arctic summer night, clear and brilliant. At two this morning we passed Godhavn, the little place lying under the southward- facing cliffs of Disco, which is the capital of the northern inspectorate of Greenland. Here, nineteen years ago, I got my first taste of Arctic life, and made plans and indulged in dreams some of which have since materialised and others may. Several times since then I have anchored in the harbour, till I know the little settlement as I do the streets of Washington. Though we are now over three degrees beyond the Arctic Circle, I am sitting in my cabin, with window and ports open, in my shirt sleeves, wearing clothing I wore in New York before I left, writing in entire comfort. Later, a light breeze from the westward, keen after its passage over the middle pack, makes the blue waters look like frosted steel, and sharpens the western cliffs of Disco, along which we are steaming, into almost startling clearness. At noon we are off Hare Island and passing through a fleet of large bergs, the output of the Tossuketek glacier, which I visited in 1886, through the Waigatt. We are ten days from Sydney to the Waigatt. Sunday, Aug. 6th. — An hour or two of fog at mid- night, then overcast, with a light following breeze, barely enough to fill the sails at first, then freshens from southwest and brings up a sea which would give FROM NEW YORK TO ETAH 21 the Roosevelt considerable motion were it not for the sails which hold her almost as steady as a rock. Occasionally the top of a wave slaps over the port rail, but not enough to do any harm. The base of Sanderson's Hope seen and named by John Davis 300 years ago, was visible under the fog in the early morning. Our noon sights gave us 73° 17' north latitude, and at 6 p. m. we passed the Duck Islands on our starboard beam, near enough to see with the glasses, the old whaler's lookout on the summit. The sea and fresh breeze continued all the evening, and there is evidently very dirty weather to the south of us. No sign of ice yet. Monday, Aug. yth. — We ran away from the wind during the night. Cape York was visible at 2 p. m. and at 7 p. m. we ran past the point of it for the Eskimo settlement beyond. The run across Melville Bay had been made in twenty-five hours. No ice or ice sky was seen, and there is evidently no ice in the bay this year. Going ashore, I found four tents at the village, and learned that some fifteen families are located to the eastward, at Meteorite Island, and other places. Among them are some of my best men. Told the natives to get their things ready to come on board on my return; and going off to the ship steamed eastward. Stopped off the first settlement and, without dropping anchor, shouted to the men to get ready to move. Then on to Meteorite Island, where I found four 22 NEAREST THE POLE tents and learned that four other families were still farther east in the bay. These I shall not see, as I cannot take the time to go so far out of my way. At Meteorite Island are three of my old men, and, in an hour or two, they are all on board with their belongings, and we steam away, leaving the place deserted. Back to the next settlement and the opera- tion is repeated. Six families move all their belongings on board and desert their village in about three hours. Tuesday, Aug. Sth. — It was after breakfast when we finished at the last settlement, and I lay down for a short nap while crossing Cape York Bay, having been up all night. Again at Cape York the tents were quickly struck and, with all their belongings, the new men came on board. At 2 p. M. we steamed around the Cape, and headed north to join the Erik at North Star Bay.* While passing Petowik Glacier a steamer was seen to the westward steaming south. The glasses showed her to be small and schooner-rigged. Wednesday, Aug. gth. — On arriving at North Star Bay this morning at 2 a. m., learned from the Erik that the steamer we saw was the Danish steamship Fox, here for the purpose of selecting a site for a settlement. The Erik came alongside and I trans- ferred to her with Marvin and "Matt," to make a round *NoTE. — The Erik was the auxiliary, steam whaler chartered by the Peary Arctic Club to go north as a collier, replenish the Roosevelt's coal supply at Etah and deposit there a depot of coal for the Roosevelt on her return voyage. O -B O u COALING AT ETAH TRANSFERRING WALRUS MEAT AT ETAH FROM NEW YORK TO ETAH 25 of the settlements to the north, and to hunt walrus, while the Roosevelt goes direct to Etah to overhaul machinery and prepare for the ice. The Erik got underway soon after, and made the circuit of Wolstenholm Sound, looking for walrus, but without success. There is no ice for them to bask upon. At the Saunders Island bird cliffs we then put in two or three hours shooting, securing 130 birds, and returned to North Star Bay. Here, the natives that I wanted were taken on board, and some thirty addi- tional dogs purchased. Before midnight we steamed north for Whale Sound. The next morning we were rounding magnificent Cape Parry, into Whale Sound, and steamed eastward along the southern shore to Ittibloo, where I expected to find more of my people. None were there, however, and the Erik turned northward across the Sound to Kamah, where I felt certain to find someone. Six tents were located here beside the brawling summer river, and the men were all away at Cape Cleveland, hunting walrus with one of the whaleboats which I had given them three years before. From the women, I learned that about ten families were up the gulf at Kangerdlooksoah and that vicinity. Telling the na- tives here, as at the other places, to get their things in readiness to come on board when the ship returned, we steamed eastward into Inglefield Gulf. No ice was to be seen here, but there was a most unusual profusion of bergs from the great Heilprin and Mel- ville Glaciers at the head of the Gulf. At times it looked as if there were no thoroughfare among the 26 NEAREST THE POLE bergs, but a closer approach in every case showed winding passages among them, and off Kangerdlook- soah there were comparatively few. Here, where I had left my faithful people three years before, I found now six tents, the occupants of all but one of them young and active men. The number of dogs, and the goodly supply of skins which these people have, made the process of moving a little slower than at some of the other places, but everybody and every- thing was finally on board, leaving the place, which a few hours before had been enlivened by the voices of children and the barking of dogs, deserted. From Kangerdlooksoah we steamed north across the head of the Gulf to Harvard Islands, on the northernmost of which were four tents. These, like the others, were embarked as soon as possible, and at half -past two the morning of the nth, the Erik was ready to steam down the Gulf again. The scene and the surroundings during this typical Arctic summer night were such as to be long remem- bered. The surface of the Gulf like a placid mirror, thickly dotted in every direction with fragments of ice and icebergs, of all sizes and shapes, and flanked on the east and north by the gigantic amphitheatre of the Heilprin, Tracy, and Melville Glaciers rising to the steel-blue slopes of the ' ' great ice, ' ' while north- west and west rose the warm red-brown bluifs of Mounts Daly and Adams, and Josephine Peary Island, and to the south the rolling slopes of the Kangerd- looksoah deer pastures. During the remainder of the night we steamed down the Gulf, and in the forenoon we were on the walrus grounds between Herbert Island and the north shore of the Sound. E^'