917.1 Ev15e Evans, Francis A. - THE EMIGRANT'S DIRECTORY AND GUIDE ... IN THE CANADAS . - '^^S fi'/ T^QCUMENTATION RECORD OF CONSERVATION WORK 1. Book was deacidified to chemically stabilize it. 2* Early case "binding was restored to retain original integrity. Hand loomed Irish linen was dyed to match cloth spine. When spine was restored the old spine was glued on new one. 3. Original endsheets were retained hy mending inside hinges with tissue. h. Book was placed in special acidfree folder for storage UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY CONSERVATION UNIT Miss Gammon. Conservator D ate April 3, 19o^ ^-m \ LI E> R.AFLY OF THL UN 1VER.5ITY or ILLINOIS ,_^'*«> ^^O'/^'/^X. O ■ />^- ^Al- «< UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY AT URj|^\NA-CHAIVlPAIGN ILL HIST. SURVEY THE EMIGRANT'S DIRECTORY AND GUIDE TO OBTAIN LANDS AND EFFECT A SETTLEMENT IN THE CANADAS. BY FRANCIS A. EVANS, ESQ. tATE AGENT FOR THE EASTERN TOWNSHIPS TO THE LEGISLATURE OF LOWER CANADA. WILLIAM CURRY, JUN. AND CO. DUBLIN; SIMPKIN AND MARSHALL, LONDON ; AND OLIVER AND BOYD, EDINBURGH. 1833. John S. Folds, 5, Badielor's-Walk. J DEDICATED BY PERMISSION, TO HIS EXCELLENCY LIEUTENANT GEN. LORD AYLMEK, K.C.B. CAPTAIN GENERAL AND GOVERNOR IN CHIEF OF BRITISH AMERICA, &C. &c. Sir. This humble attempt to direct Emigrants to a Settlement in the Caxadas, is, with the greatest ft deference and respect, dedicated, By his most humble, Li^ Obliged, and devoted Servant, ?- FRANCIS A. EVANS. ,; Quebec, 1832. -^ ADVERTISEMENT. Having now for eighteen years been a resident of British America, and having- in consequence of my official appointment as Agent to the Eastern Town- ships of Lower Canada, frequently visited various parts of the new settlements, I have been enabled to obtain, from personal observation, a larger share of information respecting them than most persons, from time to time I have taken notes on my several journeys, with the intention of ])ublishing an exten- sive work on the state of the Canadas (and which I had partly completed for the press,) but I considered that at present it might be more useful to persons disposed to emigrate, to publish a small work, giving such information as might be absolutely necessary to direct them to a suitable settlement according to their inclinations, occupations, or habits; and to this determination I was strongly led, by observing the vast increase of Emigrants that arrived at Quebec last season, and who, generally speaking, had very little correct information respecting the British pro- vinces, and were, in every sense of the word, " Strangers in a strange land," and therefore liable A 3 VI ADVERTISEMENT. to be imposed on by interested persons, who cared little for their future prosperity. At a very late period of the last season, a work somewhat similar to this, entitled " Hints to Emi- grants," appeared at Quebec, brought out by some emigrants who had then arrived. It is published in the name of " Martin Doyle," and though evidently not written from personal observation, yet it contains consideixtble infoi'Tiiation ; however, as its object appears to me to be directed in favour of Upper Canada exclusively, I have felt it my duty at once to transmit this work to my native country, in order that it might be published immediately, so that an opportunity should be given to the public of forming a correct opinion of the present state of British America, and of the great advantages which it pre- sents to the industrious. I shall merely add, that this work has been sub- mitted to persons in authority here, and it is now offered to the public, Avith their sanction and appro- bation. It has been extracted from my papers with per- haps too much haste, but the persons for whose use it is principally intended, will not, I am persuad- ed, greatly fault the style or composition, provided they find it what it professes to be, namely, a " Directory and Guide to obtain Lands and effect a Settlement in the Canadas." FRANCIS A. EVANS. Quebec, 1832. 1i, '■A PREFACE. The Publishers feel considerable regret in having to state that the Writer of the first part of this Work has, since they received the manuscript, fallen a victim to cholera at Quebec. He had devoted a considerable portion of time and labour in procuring authentic information in the Canadas, and had prepared an extensive Work respect- ing the present state of the British possessions in America, which he intended to submit to the public. In the spring of the last year, Mr. Evans extracted the following pages from his larger Work, and transmitted them to a gentleman in this city, with the intention of having them published immediately, but very shortly after they had been received several new publications on the Ca- nadas issued from the press, in consequence of which it was thought advisable to delay the printing of this Work for a short time, particularly as the season for emigration had nearly closed, and therefore the necessity for the in- formation (which the publishers feel is to be found in this small treatise) was not of a pressing nature. 11 PREFACE. They have carefully examined the several new publica- tions on the subject of emigration, manj' of which they freely and candidly admit possess much valuable informa- tion, and are written with the most anxious desire not to mislead the public ; but they feel it their duty not to with- hold any thing within their power which they conscien- tiously believe contains much really useful matter, and which is not to be found in similar publications. Mr. Evans emigrated to America in the year 1813, and shortly after procured a grant of land near Drummond- ville, in Lower Canada ; from time to time he visited various parts of the Canadas, and particularly within the last eight years, as about the year 1824 he was appointed Agent to the Eastern Townships in Lower Canada, and this office obliged him to become intimately acqufdnted with the actual state of that extensive district, in order that he might be qualified to communicate fully with the Authorities at Quebec, as at that period these townships had no Representatives in the House of Assem- bly (they afterwards obtained them in the year 1829). The official duties of Township Agent obliged Mr. Evans to visit Quebec frequently, and when there, to become acquainted, from the most authentic sources, with the state of the entire province, for the purpose of enabling him to procure for the particular district with the interests of which he had been entrusted, equal advantages with those parts then enjoying the privilege of being Represented in the Provincial Parliament. It is oresumed Mr. Evans's PREFACE. Ill conduct gave general satisfaction to the inhabitants of these Townships, as he was repeatedly re-elected by them to fill the same situation, and therefore the publishers feel no hesitation in submitting and recommending " The Emi- grants' Guide" to the public, as a work containing within a very small compass more real, useful and practical infor- mation than is to be found in any other of a similar nature of double the extent. Some persons may consider these observations too strong, but time, which is the true test of most things, \vill determine how far they are accurate. Mr. Evans having felt considerable anxiety respecting his friends in Ireland in consequence of accounts having reached him of the breaking out of the cholera in Dublin, wrote from Quebec in the month of June last, at which time he was in the enjoyment of perfect health, but before his letters reached their destination, he was laid in the g)'ave, and that within nine hours from the period of the attack. If Mr. Evans had lived, it is probable he would have transmitted additional matter which would have been an- nexed to, or embodied in this work, as he had been writ- ten to on the subject, but his premature death put an end to such expectations ; however, some hopes are entertained that all his valuable papers on British America will be for- warded to Ireland during the spring for publication. The publishers, desirous that the " Emigrants' Guide" should be as perfect as possible (and not having, for the reasons mentioned, procured the expected communication IV PREFACE. from Mr. Evans,) have, in the Appendix, given such further information respecting the Canadas as they con- ceive may not be altogether unacceptable to the Emigrant, and upon which Mr. Evans has not fully written, it may, in the spirited language of the " Backwoodsman," be called a chapter of " Odds and Ends," and has been ex- tracted from the latest and most authentic publications on British America, Emigration, &c. The importance of the British settlements in North America as connected with the trade of the United King- doms, may be estimated from the fact ascertained by the Custom-house returns, that every man, woman and child in these colonies, on an average, makes use of forty dollars worth of British goods annually ; whereas, if the thousands who have emigrated from these countries remained at home, they would not, on an average, consume one-third of that amount ; therefore, upon this ground alone, emigration is of considerable advantage to the mother country, and we most cordially approve of the motto from Napoleon, prefixed to the " Backwoodsman," viz. " Ships, Colonies, and Commerce.'^ Duhlm, \Oth March, 1833. CONTENTS. SECTIOX I. Patfc General description of Lower and Upper Canada - 1 Lower Canada ------.2 Upper Canada --..._. 9 Roads and distances from Quebec - - - 17 Roads from Three Rivers - - - . - 21 William Henry - - . - 22 Montreal --__.. 23 SECTION II. General directions on arriving in Canada - - 27 SECTION III. Directions relating to various parts of Lower Canada favourable for settling in, with a few observations on the settlements already formed - - - 37 SECTION IV. Comparative view of both provinces, with some further remarks on the Upper ... 67 How to ascertain the quality of lands - - - 73 Directions relative to the obtaining of lands — securing titles therein, with someremarkson the several kinds of title, &c. -----__ 74 Currency, or coin current in Canada - - - 83 Matters to be provided on proceeding to settle - 84 Building ---...-.87 Clearing land ....... qi CONTENTS. Page Fencing _-____. -95 Sowing and planting new cleared land - - - 96 On making maple sugar - - - - - 105 General observations on Ashes, Salts, Timber, &c. 109 Conclusion - - - - - - -113 Appendix - - - - - 118 Upper Canada - - - - 127 Eastern Section - . - _ 131 Eastern District - - - - 132 Ottawa - - - - 133 Johnstown - - - - 136 Bathurst - - - - 137 Midland - - - - 138 Central Section - - - - 140 Newcastle District - - - - 141 Home - - - - 143 Western Section - - - - 145 Gore District - - - - - 146 Niagara - - - - 149 London _ _ - - 151 Western - - - - 153 Cities and Towns - - - - 156 City of the Falls - - - - 161 Lakes and Canals - - - - 163 New Brunswick - - - - 165 Advice to Emigrants, by A. C. Buchanan, Esq. Government Agent for Emigrants - - 168 Information for Emigrants - - - 179 THE EMIGRANT'S GUIDE TO CANADA. SECTION I. A GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF LOWER AND UPPER CANADA. Lower and Upper Canada formed but the province of Quebec until the year 1791, when, by an Act of the British Parliament, it was divided into two pro- vinces, and a similar Constitution given to each, viz, : — a Governor, Executive Council, Legislative Council, and House of Assembly elected for four years, who possess similar legislative powers, within their res- pective provinces, as the King, Lords, and Commons of Great Britain and Ireland ; however always admit- ting the Imperial Parliament to have the supremacy. The king appoints the governor and executive council during pleasure, and the legislative council for life ; the executive council are the governor's legal advis- ers, and are somewhat in the nature of a privy council. B 2 THE emigrant's Lower Canada. Lower Canada is bounded on the north, by Hud- son Bay and Labrador territories ; on the north-east, by the Gulf of St. Laurence; [on the south and south-east, by the States of Maine, New Hamp- shire, Vermont, and New York, and the province of New Brunswick; and on the west, by Upper Cana- da; being about 700 miles long from N.E. to S.W., and 300 miles wide from N. to S., comprising a sur- face of about 200,000 square miles. It is situated between 45 and 52 degrees of north latitude, and between 63 and 81 degrees of west longitude ; the great river St. Laurence running from S.W. to N.E. through the province, into which a number of large rivers and streams run north and south, watering the country at both sides of this river, to the greatest perfection, in every settlement formed, or that can be formed, in the province. The principal rivers that fall in on the north shore of the St. Laurence, are the Saguenay, Malbay, Montmorency, St. Charles, Jacque Cartier, Portneuf, St. Anne's, Batiscan, Champlain, St. Maurice, De- loup, Ymachiche, Masquinouge, and Ottawa. Those that fall in on the south shore, are the Chandiere, Becancour, Nicolet, St. Francis, Ymaska, Richelieu or Chambly, and Chateauguay, with many of less note. A great number of these rivers are navigable for large vessels, for some distance from the St. Lau- rence, but boats can proceed very far into the inte- GUIDE TO CANADA. O rior of the country. There is a short canal, of eight miles, between Montreal and Lachine, for the pur- pose of avoiding- the rapids on the St. Laurence above the former place. Another canal leads over the rapids in the Ottawa river, to the mouth of the Rideau canal, which forms a communication between the Ottawa and Kingston, on Lake Ontario, in Up- per Canada : and another canal is in progress, from Chambly to St. John, to make the Richelieu navi- gable from the St. Laurence to Lake Champlain. There are also several short canals and locks on the St. Laurence, above Montreal, to enable boats to surmount the rapids when proceeding to Upper Canada. There are roads on both banks of the St. Laurence, and also on the banks of the other principal rivers. The lands or farms are laid out in lots about three times as long as they are wide, the ends of which are generally towards the roads or rivers : there are also roads across each range of the lots or farms, as far as settlements reach on each side of the rivers. With these there are a few leading roads to and from the principal parts of the country, namely : — the Ristigouche road, from the St. Laurence to the Bay of Chaleur ; the Timisconata road, from the St. Lau- rence to New Brunswick, &c.; the Kennebec road, from Quebec to the State of Maine ; the Craigs road, from Quebec to the eastern townships and State of Vermont, &c. ; the St. Gregoire road, from Three Rivers to the said townships ; and the Ymaska moun- THE emigrant's tain and ShefFord road, from Montreal to the said townships. There are also roads from Montreal to Upper Canada, and up the Ottawa river to Hull ; with many other cross roads from one settlement to another, and which are too numerous to insert here in detail, as they lead to all parts of the province. Lower Canada is at present divided into five law dis- tricts, (somewhat similar to what are called circuits in Great Britain and Ireland,) viz. : — Quebec, Montreal, Three Rivers, Gaspe, and St. Francis ; in each of which courts of justice are held for the administration of the laws. These districts are subdivided into forty counties, viz.: — Gaspe, Bonaventure, Rimouski, Ka- mouraska, Lislet, Bellchase, Dorchester, Beance, Megantic, Lotbiniere, Nicolet, Yniaska, Drummond, Sherbrooke, Stanstead, Missiskoui, Sheiford, Riche- lieu in which is the borough of William Henry, St. Hyacinthe, Rouville, Vercheres, Chambly, Laprairie, L'acaidie, Beauharnois, Vaudreuil, Ottawa, Lake of the Two Mountains, Terrebonne, Lachenaie, L'as- sumption, Montreal and city, Berthier, St. Mau- rice in which is the town of Three Rivers, Cham- plain, Portneuf, Quebec and city, Montmorency, Sagnanay, and Orleans. The chief cities and towns are, the cities of Quebec and Montreal, each con- taining nearly 30,000 inhabitants ,• the town of Three Rivers, containing about 3,000, and the borough of Wilham Henry, about 2,000 inhabitants. The coun- ties, cities, towns, and boroughs, return eighty-four members to serve in the assembly of the province. GUIDE TO CANADA. 9 who are elected by freeholders having^ a freehold of forty shillings or more, yearly value. The civil laws of Lower Canada are of French origin, with the laws and ordinances of the provin- cial parliament, but the Enghsh criminal law is es- tablished in the province. Courts of king's bench sit in the several districts of Quebec, Montreal, and Three Rivers ; the two first holding' four terms each, and the last three terms in every year; each term continues for twenty days. Inferior terms are fre- •qnently held in the several districts, and commis- sioners' courts are established in many parishes, for the recovery of small debts. There are five French colleges, and many semina- ries for education in this province, exclusive of ele- mentary schools established in every settlement, all of which are well supported by the province, or by lands allocated for that purpose. At Montreal a Protestant college is in progress, and several public seminaries in the townships are well endowed. A great portion of the inhabitants profess the Ro- man Catholic faith, and that church is well sup- ported in the different villages and settlements on the banks of the St. Laurence : it is under the su- perintendence of the Roman Catholic Bishop of Quebec, under whom, in this province and Upper Canada, are several other bishops, and a consider- able number of inferior clergy, who are generally respectable, and are well provided for by a small tithe of one twenty-fifth of the grain raised by THE emigrant's their own people, besides lands and other emolu- ments. The Church of England ranks next in point of numbers, and is governed by the Lord Bishop of Quebec, whose diocese includes Upper Canada. In this province there is one archdeacon, and about thirty inferior clergy, having that number of churches, or perhaps more, to attend. This church is sup- ported by parliamentary and Church Missionary aid, exclusive of a large quantity of land, which in a few years will increase in value, and produce a large fund : nearly 10,000 acres of land in each English township, have been reserved for that purpose. At present the inhabitants of this province are only re- quired to provide churches, and keep them in re- pair. The members of the Scotch Presbyterian Churcb have about six ministers, and the Wesleyan Metho- dists about ten ministers, both of whom are sup- ported by their own congregations, and by societies in the United Kingdoms. These are the principal religious bodies in Lower Canada, and are the only ones recognised by law for keeping registers of births, deaths, and marriages. There are a few members of various other sects, but none, it is believed, who support regular ministers. Li the townships and country parts, where there are no regular ministers, some religiously disposed men are in the habit of holding weekly meetings with the people for religious worship. GUIDE TO CANADA. ? The taxes and duties are very moderate ; a small duty of '2^ per cent, is paid on all goods imported, and a duty of 5 per cent, on all liquors. Retailers of liquors, tavern-keepers, and hawkers and pedlars, pay an annual Hcence. These, with fines and for- feitures, and the sale of crown lands, constitute the revenue of the Canadas. There are three incorporated banks in this pro- vince; one in Quebec, one in Montreal, and one in Stanstead, possessing capital of about £750,000 ; the Montreal bank has a branch of that establishment in Quebec. The trade of the province, which of course in- cludes the imports of Upper Canada, gives employ- ment to about 1,200 sail of vessels, annually, having a)bout 12,000 men on board, and tonnage of at least 300,000 ton, if not more. The face of the country, for about twenty miles back on each side of the St. Laurence, is level : on the north, the settlements do not extend to any very considerable distance, except up the Ottawa river. To the south of the level tract on the south bank of the St. Laurence, the country rises into gentle swells of land, or hills, but not broken ; and the tract in that direction generally known as the Eastern Townships, cannot be exceeded in fertility in any part of British America. These townships are situated on both sides of the river St. Francis, and extend southward to latitude 45°, the boundary line between Lower 8 THE emigrant's Canada and the United States. An immense quan- tity of land remains still to be occupied in that pro- vince, as the country distant from the St. Laurence is rather thinly inhabited. The population of Lower Canada is now estimated at about 650,000 souls ; eight-tenths of the inhabitants being- of French ex- traction, and two-tenths of British birth or descent ; being little more than three persons to every square mile, including- the populations of the cities, towns, and villag-es. The lands bordering- the St. Laurence, and near it, were laid out in seigniories by the French go- vernment, but are not of equal extent, some being very extensive, and others small, somewhat like townlands in England and Ireland. The townships were laid out under the British government, and contain, on an average, about ten square miles, or 60,000 acres each ; and these again are subdivided into lots of 200 acres, every seventh lot being re- served for the Protestant clergy, and called clergy reserves : an addition of ten acres is given to each lot for roads. The township lots are 103 rods or perches wide, by 300 rods in length, which is the same in Upper Canada also. The lots in the seig- niories are laid out by the arpent, or French acre, which is equal to about four-fifths of an English acre ; the lot is usually three arpents wide by thirty arpents long. In another part of this work, the reader will GUIDE TO CANADA. 9 find a more particular description of those parts of Lower Canada most suitable to the emigrant, with a minute account of the roads and distances. Upper Canada^ This province lies west and south-west of Lower Canada, and is separated from the United States by Lake in the Woods, lakes Superior, Huron, St. Claire, Erie, and Ontario, and by the river St. Laurence from lake Ontario to its entry into Lower Canada. It is bounded on the north, by Hudson Bay territory ; and west and north-west, by the British Indian ter- ritories ; being about 550 miles in breadth, from north to south, and about 1100 miles in length, from east to west. It lies between 45 and 53 degrees north latitude, and between 73 and 97 degrees west longitude. This fine province is altogether inland, but stands unrivalled as to its possessing the best in- land navigation in the world, having several thousand miles of lake, or fresh water shore, and also nume- rous rivers flowing from various parts of the country into these lakes. The principal rivers are, the Ottawa, (for a great part of its course to near its junction with the St. Laurence, separating this province from Lower Canada,) the Rideau, the Trent, the Huraber, the Welland, the Ousc, the Thames, the Maitland, and the Severn, with many others of minor importance. Upper Canada is gene- rally a level country, and the rivers have much dead or smooth water for boat or sloop navigation, even b5 iO THE emigrant's more so than Lower Canada. The St. Laurence is navigable from Prescot, upwards, to lake Ontario, for the lake vessels ; but from Prescot down to Montreal, a distance of about 120 miles, the navi- gation is interrupted by rapids in several places, being however, navigable for boats : considerable improve- ments have been made in several parts, by short ca- nals and locks, for the purpose of avoiding the worst of the rapids or falls. Good roads pass through all the settled districts, exclusive of the main or leading ones along the banks of the lakes and rivers ; these roads generally run more inland than in Lower Canada, and are placed under the inspection of the authorities. — (See "Roads and Distances.") The Welland canal, lately opened, connects lakes Ontario and Erie, and enables vessels to pass from one lake to the other, and thus surmount the great falls of Niagara, which are the most surprising works of nature, and of which it would be impossible to convey an adequate idea : the awe and dread created ty the fall of such an immense body of water over a precipice of 137 feet, cannot be conceived, much less described. The Rideau canal, (now nearly com- plete,) passes from the lower, or north-east end of lake Ontario to Bytown, on the Ottawa river, and from ten to sixty miles distant on the north of the St. Laurence, opening a fine healthy tract of coun- try, well situated for settlements. This canal, when finished, will enable steam boats, (having been made GUIDE TO CANADA. Tl sufficiently larg^e) to go from Montreal to all the up- per lakes, thus opening the most extensive Hne of inland navigation in the world. Of the great lakes from which this country derives so great a facility of inland navigation, lake Huron is 246 miles in length, and 220 in breadth, being about 1,000 miles in circumference : this lake receives the waters of lakes Superior and Michagan, the latter of which does not fall much short of the Huron, in extent, and the former is 1,500 miles in circumference. The contents of these stupendous sheets of fresh water, to expand whose surfaces a variety of sources con- tribute, are again received, through the river St. Clair, into lake St. Clair, from whence they pass, through the Detroit river, into the other great lake (Erie), and after rushing with inconceivable impe- tuosity down the great falls of Niagara, already no- ticed, they fall into lake Ontario, thence continuing their course through the river St. Laurence, until they at length, themselves, contribute to swell the waves of the Atlantic. The chief town in Upper Canada is Kingston, about 200 miles south-west of Montreal, near the outlet of lake Ontario, and at the head of the Ri- deau canal. It contains about 6,000 inhabitants, and has 'got a navy yard for the lakes. The next is York, which is the seat of government for the pro- vince : it is about 170 miles west of Kingston, si- tuated on a convenient harbour of lake Ontario, and has got a population of about 3,000. There are 12 THE emigrant's many rising villages scattered throughout the pro* rince, to many of which reference will be seen is the " Account of Roads and Distances." This Province is divided into eleven Law Dis- tricts, consisting of twenty-six Counties, and subdi- vided into 266 Townships, each of which is about ten miles square ; but vast tracts remain yet unsur- veyed. — 1. The Eastern District, includes the Coun- ties of Glengarry, Stormont, and Dundas. — 2. The Ottawa District, the Counties of Preseot and Rus- sell. — 3. The Bathurst District, the Counties of Carleton and Lanark. — 4. The Johnstown District, the Counties of Grenville and Leeds. — 5. The Mid- land District, the Counties of Frontinac, Lenox and Addington, Hastings, and Prince Edward's. — 6. The Newcastle District, the Counties of Northumberland and Durham. — 7. The Home District, the East and West Riding of York and Simcoe. — 8. The Gore District, the Counties of Waltown and Wentwortb. 9. The Niagara District, the Counties of Lincoln and Haldimand. — 10. The London District, the Counties of Norfolk, Oxford, and Middlesex. — IL The Wes- tern District, the Counties of Kent and Essex. Through all these districts or circuits, assizes are held by the judges, as in Great Britain and Ireland. The British statutes both civil and criminal, as far as applicable with the acts passed by the provincial legislature, form the law of the province. The Con- stitution is similar to that of Lower Canada, and consists in like manner of a Governor, Executive GUIDE to CANAt)A. 15 Council, Legislative Council, and House of Assem- bly. The House of Assembly is elected for four years by persons possessing' freeholds of the clear yearly value of forty shillings and upwards. The present population of this province may be estimated at about 250,000, but is rapidly increasing by emigration from the United Kingdoms, as well as from other countries, and also by the numerous births consequent upon the location of married per- sons, and who are generally in the prime of life- Education is well supported, and making considerable progress in the country ; there is a College in York, and besides the district and other academies, there are, in the diflferent settlements, elementary schools. There are the remains of many Indian tribes here, but they do not altogether exceed 15,000. They are a rambling, unsettled people, and pay little attention to agi'iculture : some experiments have been tried by the formation of settlements for them, and so far they have answered the expectation of the persons who benevolently lent their countenance and aid to the undertaking. It is hoped that in a short time the remainder of these tribes may be induced to fol- low the example thus set them, and become what they are capable of being — an industrious, orderly, and sober people. There are two archdeacons, and about thirty other clergymen of the church of England settled in va- rious parts of the province, and are yearly increasing under the superintendence of the present excellent 14 THE emigrant's Lord Bishop of Quebec, the Honourable and Right Reverend Doctor Stewart. This church is support- ed by Parliamentary aid, the British Church Mis- sionary Society, and the seventh of the lands of the province, which at present yields a very small in- come, but will, in time, be very valuable ; the in- habitants only provide churches and keep them in repair. Methodists, Presbyterians, Roman Ca- tholics, Baptists, Mennonites, and other sects, have considerable congregations, but the Methodists and Presbyterians are considered to be the most nu- merous. A number of churches and meeting-- houses have been erected in various parts of the country, and add much to the beauty of the land- scape ; and to the well-disposed it is a cause of much thankfulness that temples have been erected ill the forests for the worship of the Most High, where they can bow the knee at His altar, and sup- plicate a blessing upon their exertions in a new country, far removed from the homes of their fa- thers ; so that now, such emigrants as have been ac- customed to make religion a consideration of the first importance, need not be disheartened by an ap- prehension that they are about to sacrifice to the prospect of an improvement in their temporal con- dition, the whole of the religious advantages, with which the inhabitants of Great Britain and Ireland enjoy the privilege of being abundantly supplied in the lands of their nativity. The chief trade of this province is with Lower GUIDE TO CANADA. 15 Canada, and the United States of America, but prin- cipally with the former. The climate is somewhat more moderate or mild in winter than in the Lower Province, but in the vicinity of the lakes and swamps (which are numerous) fever and ague very much af- flict the inhabitants, especially in the south-western parts of the province. Moose, and several other sorts of deer, are nume- rous; and to the north-west, especially in the ex- tensive plains north-west of lake Superior, buffaloes are very easily met with. Broivn hears, wolves, foxes, &c. are common, but not dangerous : these, with deer, and a variety of other animals, are to be found in the lower province. Rattle-snakes abound in Upper Canada, but are easily avoided ; they are not found in any other part of the British provinces. The Canada Company have large tracts of land in several townships, which they offer for sale at fair prices. Land may be purchased at various rates, from three shillings to ten shiUings per acre, accord- ing to quality and situation, the value being consi- dered nearly the same in all parts of the province, except in the immediate neighbourhood of towns, or places having some other peculiar advantages : the foregoing prices apply only to woodland in its origi- nal state. Land partly cleared, with houses erect- ed on the farms, can be had, but at a much higher rate of purchase, and is suited to persons possessing some capital. Labour is higher in this than in the lower pro- 16 THE emigrant's vince ; the usual hire for farm labourers is from 8 to 12 dollars per month, with board. The districts of this province lying between Lower Canada, or the Ottawa River and Kingston, are the most healthy, and through these the Rideau Canal passes. The tract north of lake Ontario and Nia- gara is next in point of healthiness, but is further inland ; and the western tract, though more fruitful, is least healthy. In all parts of the country lands can be procured from the Government, by purchase,as in Lower Canada, from the Upper CanadaLand Company, and from private individuals in the different townships; and the only diflBculty the settler feels, is that of having so many lots or farms to select from, that he is at a loss to determine or decide upon which to take. The settler can proceed from Montreal, either up the St. Lawrence, or by the Ottawa river and Rideau Canal, to Upper Canada; the line between the pro- vinces being about 50 or 60 miles above Montreal: and on the route he can make such inquiries and ob- servations as may be useful to enable him to form a correct judgment of the most suitable place to settle in, according to his means and circumstances. He will perceive little difference in point of climate or soil, between Kingston and Montreal, to affect the interests of the farmer. From the following enumeration of roads and dis- tances from Quebec, Montreal, Three Rivers, and William Henry, to various parts of both provinces, and to other places, an idea can be formed of the route to GUIDE TO CANADA. 17 any section of the country to which the emigrant may wish to proceed : the distances are setdown according to the latest calculations, and will be found correct. Roads and Distances from Quebec. The main and post road from Quebec to Montreal and on to Upper Canada, runs along the north bank of the St. Laurence. It has been well made, and is kept in good repair ; it is also very populous, pre- senting an almost uninterrupted chain of farm houses and comfortable dwellings, generally not more than one hundred yards distant from each other ; handsome villages also, and churches, are situated at distances varying from 4 to 9 miles, and present a most agreeable prospect to the traveller by land or water. The town of Three Rivers lies half way between Quebec and Montreal, being 90 miles from each city. On this road bridges have been erected over all the rivers, except four, and these are in pro- gress : where bridges have not been erected there are good ferry boats which convey passengers, horses, carriages, and goods, across the rivers, with great care and safety, at very moderate charges. Quebec to St. Augustine 12 miles ; to Point aux Tremble 24; to Cape Sante 31 ; to Port Neuf 35; to De- chambault 45 ; to St. Anne's 60 ; to Batiscan 66 ; to Champlain 75 ; to Three Rivers 90 ; to Point du Lac 99; to River du Loup 112; to Berthier 135; to Bout del Isle, the foot of Montreal Island 165; to Montreal 180 miles. From Port-neuf, on this line, 18 THE emigrant's a road is made into the country for about 6 miles, to a new settlement, where the emigrants are doing- well. From Berthier a road leads to the townships of Rawdon, Kilkenny, and Kildare, where a large settlement has been formed by emigrants, whose spi- ritual wants are attended to by a resident clergyman of the Church of England; the road extends from Berthier into the interior of the country nearly 30 miles, and from the same place there is a ferry across the St. Laurence, to William Henry, on the south side of the river, where it is four miles wide. Va- rious other roads lead to different parts of the coun- try from the main road to INIontreal. A road leads from Quebec to lake Beauport, N. by E. of Quebec, 13 miles distant, and passes through Charlesbourg : at lake Beauport there is a large set- tlement by emigrants. The road to the townships of Stoneham and Tewkesbury, and to lake St. Charles, from 12 to 15 miles distant, passes also through Charlesbourg. Near lake St. Charles is also another emigrant settlement. A road leads from Quebec to Vale Cartie settlement, N.W. of that city, and passes through Loretto : this settlement was formed by emi- grants, and is in a flourishing state, the nearest part being about 13 miles, and the most distant part not more than 30 miles distant from Quebec. A road leads down the north shore of the St. Laurence, through Beauport, by Montmorency Falls, St. Paul's Bay, Malbay, &c., to the end of the settlements in that direction. GUIDE TO CANADA. 19 From Point Levi, opposite Quebec, and to which steam and team ferry-boats pass and re-pass every hour, a road leads down the south bank of the St. Lawrence, and is the post road to New Brunswick, Hahfax, the Bay Chaleur, &c. The distance from Quebec to Kamouraska is 90 miles ; to the Portage 110 miles, all well settled along- that distance ; to Timisconata, across the Portage 146 ; to Frederick- ton, the capital of New Brunswick, down the river St. John 426 ; to Halifax in Nova Scotia 706 miles. The road to the Bay of Chaleur leads down the St. Laurence, from the Portage, and by the new road to Ristigouche, at the head of the bay, which is about three hundred miles distant from Quebec ; a road leads from thence to Mirimichi, on the south shore of the Bay of Chaleur, distant about 70 miles. Another road leads from Ristigouche along the north shore of the Bay of Chaleur to New Carlisle 60 miles ; to Percee 120, and to Gaspee 140 miles. A road leads from Quebec, by Point Levi, to the township of Frampton, south-east of Quebec, being a new emigrant settlement, and about 30 miles dis- tant. The Kenebec road also leads from Point Levi, south to St. Mary's 32 miles ; to Aubert Gallion 62 ; to the height of land dividing Lower Canada from the State of Maine 92 ; to Portland 230 ; and to Boston 260 miles: this is the shortest road to the States of Boston and New England. The Craigs road also leads from Point Levi to St. Nicholas 12 miles ; to which place, there are also, 20 THE emigrant's steam and team-boats from Quebec, for passengers, carriages, and such other things as may require to be conveyed that way. From Point Levi, by St. Ni- cholas, to St. Giles 28 miles ; to Leeds 40 ; to Ire- land and to Inverness 54 ; to Richmond in Shipton 104 miles, through Halifax, Wolfstown, Chester and Tingwick townships. From Ireland, a branch called the Dudswell road leads on to the head of Connec- ticut river, passing through Wolfstown, Weedon, Dudswell 94 miles; through Bury, Westbury, Eaton 120 miles ; and through Newport, Clifton and Here- ford townships, to the Connecticut river, which is 130 miles from Quebec. There are only one or two families settled on this road between Ireland and Tingwick, a distance of 30 miles, through the woods. At Richmond the Craigs road intersects the roads running up the river St. Francis. On the Dudswell branch there are only three families settled between the townships of Ireland and Dudswell, a distance of 40 miles through the woods. From Eaton a road leads to Lennoxville, 13 miles ; to Sherbrooke 17 ; to Hatley 28, and Stanstead 43 miles. From Point Levi a road also leads up the south bank of the St. Laurence, through many villages in the south-west bounds of the province, of which the principal ones are St. Nicholas 12 miles ; Lotbiniere 45 ; Nicolet 99 ; La Bay 108 ; Ymaska 123 ; Wil- liam Henry 135 ; Varronne 165 ; Boucherville 171 ; Longueil 180, being opposite Montreal, on the south bank of the St. Laurence ; Laprairee 188 miles ; GUIDE TO CANADA. i21 Chateauguay 198, and St. Regis 230 miles, being the south west corner of the province. Roads from Three Rivers. From Point au Sable, or St. Gregoire, on the last mentioned road, opposite Three Rivers, the St. Gre- goire road leads south to the eastern townships on the river St. Francis, at Long Point ; the distance from Three Rivers to Douglas is 18 miles ; to Long Point, in Kingsey township, 40 miles. From La Bay village, on the same road, and 18 miles above Three Rivers, the stage and post road to the Eastern Town- ships runs to the south ; the distance to Campbell's Mills, on the St. Francis, from Three Rivers, is 33 miles ; to Drummondville ferry 35 ; up the same bank to Whitney's, opposite Drummondville village 42 ; to Long Point, in Kingsey, 54, (where the St. Gregoire road joins this road ;) to Richmond village in Shipton GO (here the Craigs road from Quebec joins this road ;) and to Brompton ferry 65 miles, where this road passes over to the south west bank of the St. Francis, and joins the road on that bank from Drummondville ferry, passing through Drum- mondville village, Durham, and Melbourne. To Sherbrooke, from Three Rivers, 82 miles ; to Len- noxville 86 (where the road from Eaton and Duds- well joins the road as already noticed ;) to Compton 96 ; to Charleston village, in Hatley, 101, and to Stanstead Plain village (two miles north of latitude 45, the south province line) 116 miles. From Stan- 22 THE emigrant's stead, to Boston in the States, 200 miles ; various other roads lead to Windsor in Vermont, Burlington on lake Champlain, &c. From Stanstead and Charles- ton, on this line, other roads lead to Montreal, Mis- siskoui hay, and to various other places. This road also passes, as partly noticed, through the townships of Wendover, Grantham, Simpson, Wickham, Kingsey, Dunham, Shipton, Melbourne, Windsor, Brorapton, Oxford, Ascot, Compton, Hatley, Barn- ston, and Stanstead, and is the most important to the Eastern Townships with its several branches; on this road also mail and stage coaches pass and repass twice a week from Three Rivers, and the line is, ge- nerally speaking, well settled. ROADS FROM WILLIAM HENRY, CALLED OTHERWISE SOREL. WiUiam Henry, on the south bank of the St. Laurence, as already mentioned, is 135 miles above Quebec, and 45 miles below Montreal ; and here the steam-boats from these cities daily stop during the season, for the accommodation of passengers, and for lading and unlading goods. It has several roads leading to the interior, the principal of which are the Ymaska road leading to Drummondville (where it joins the before-mentioned road from Three Ri- vers) distant 36 miles ; here it also joins the road up the St. Francis to Sherbrook ; and the road to Ymaska mountain, distant about 40 miles, passing through St. Dennis, St. Hyacinthe, and St. Cesaire, GUIDE TO CANADA. 23 where it joins the road from Montreal to Shefford, Stukely, Stanstead, &c. Other roads lead from Wil- liam Henry up the Richelieu river, to Chambly 45 ; and Dorchester, or St. John, 57 miles, at which the lake Champlain United States steam boats arrive, and ag-ain sail from it for Albany, New York, &c., by the lake, and a short canal to the Hudson river. Between lake Erie, at its eastern extremity, above the Falls of Niagara, and the Hudson river there is a direct com- munication by the Erie Canal, in the United States ; and of this great canal many emigrants take advan- tage, who by way of New York wish for a more ex- peditious voyage to Upper Canada. ROADS FROM 3rONTREAL. From Lapraire seven miles above Montreal, on the south side of the St. Laurence (and to which there is a regular steam ferry-boat from the city) a road leads to St. John, which is also the mail stage road to New York and other places. St. John, (between which, as already mentioned, and the States of New York and Vermont there is a communication kept up by steam-boats,) is 18 miles from Lapraire ; the dis- tance from St. John to Albany is 150 miles, and from thence to the city of New York 165 miles. A rail-road is in progress between Lapraire and St. John, and a canal between the latter place and Chambly. A road leads from St. John to the town- ships of Dunham, Farnham, Stanbridge, Sutton, Brome, and Missiskoui bay, distant from 20 to 40 24 THE emigrant's miles, and from whence are various roads to the other eastern townships. Several roads also lead from Lapraire, southward, to the townships of Hemmingford, Hinchinbrooke, and Godmanchester ; also to Chateauguay, Cald- well's Manor, L'Acadie, and on to the western part of the state of New York. The last mentioned townships are from 15 to 30 miles from Lapraire, and are situated between the Kichelieu river and the St. Laurence. From Longueil, opposite Montreal, on the south shore of the St. Laurence, a mail stage road leads to Stanstead, Boston, and other places ; from Mon- treal Ferry to Langueil 2 miles ; to Chambly Bason 14 ; to St. Cesaire 30 ; to Ymaska Mountains 40 ; to Granby 50; to Frost village in Shefford 65; to Stukeley, 75 ; to outlet of Magog lake, 90 ; to Georgeville village 100 ; to Stanstead Plain village 115; and from Stanstead to Boston in the United States, 200 miles. From Ymaska mountain a new road is ""opened through Milton, Roxton, Ely, and Melbourn, to Richmond village in Shipton, a distance of about 30 miles. From Granby, on this road, a road has been opened to Farnham, which also communicates with other places. From SheiFord and Stukeley roads lead to Brome, Dunham, Missiskoui Bay, and to other parts. From the outlet of Magog, roads lead along the west shore of that lake to Pot- ton and Bolton ; another road from the outlet to Sherbrooke, distant 20 miles ; and one to Charleston GUIDE TO CANADA. 25" villag-e in Hatley, distant 15 miles, from whence roads lead to Barnston, Compton, and Eaton, besides several other places with which they comnninicate. The roads now enumerated are the principal ones leading from the sonth east bank of the river St. Laurence to the Townships and United States : large grants of public money have been lately expended on the most of them, and they are now generally in pretty good repair. A post road leads from Montreal to the north west, up the north east bank of the Ottawa to Hull, and Bytown as follows. — From Montreal to St. Martin's, 12 miles, to River du Chene 18, to St. Andrew's 45, to Grenville 60, and to Hull 124 miles. Bytown is below Hull on the south west bank of the Ottawa, and at the mouth the Rideau of Canal, which leads to Kingston, and there joins Lake Ontario in Upper Canada. From this line of road others also lead to the Perth settlements in the upper province ; but the Ottawa river being now navigated by steam vessels adds much to the convenience of travelling in this section. Perth is 193 miles, Richmond 122, and Bytown 113 miles from Montreal. The main post and stage road to Upper Canada ■from Montreal runs up the north bank of the St. Laurence to Kingston, and in the summer season while the navigation of that river is open, a stage conveys passengers to Lachine from Montreal 9 miles, where they take a steamboat which conveys them up the St. Laurence to Coteau du Lac, 3G miles ; and c 26 THE emigrant's here they take the stage again to Prescott 90 miles, at which place they meet the Lake Ontario steam boats to Kingston, York, Niagara, &c. The road passes along the bank thus : — From Montreal to La- chine 9 miles, (where there is a ferry to cross to the south west bank of the Ottawa from the Island of Montreal). From Montreal to Coteau du Lac 45 miles, to Lancaster in Upper Canada 66, to Cornwall 87, to Matilda 120, to Prescott 135, to Brockviile 147, to Kingston 195, to Bath 207, to Adolphustown 223, to Hallowell 235, to Bellville 243, to Cobourg 300, to Port Hope 007, to York 367, to St. Cathe- rine's at the mouth of the Welland Canal 451, to Niagara 463, to Queenstown 470, to Oxford 457, to London 490, to Amherstburg 612, and to Sandwich 620 miles, to Victoria 419, and to Guelph the Head Quarters of the Canada company 395 miles. Several of these places do not he in a direct line, but are noticed for the information of the emiirrant. Besides the roads that have been noticed there are several others leading to various parts of the interior; and Montreal being a central point of the Canadas, the emigrant when there can easily procure such ad- ditionol information as he may conceive necessarv, and can without difficulty proceed to any part of the North American continent which he mav select. GUIDE TO CANADA. 27 SECTION II. GENERAL DIRECTIONS ON ARRIVING IX CANADA. Emigrants who have left the land of their nativity and made choice of America as their future country, have done so no doubt with a view of bettering their condition, or to avoid apprehended changes in their tJicumstances, to which most persons in the middle and lower classes of society are subject in the united kingdoms; and here it may not be improper to re- mark, that any industrious well meaning man is certain of acquiring in the Canadas a competency for himself and his family, without fear of those sudden alterations of fortune which often destroy the fruits of long and painful toil and exertion. It is de- sirable that such expectations should not be frus- trated, or the emigrant delayed in the attaining his object by want of information respecting the country in which he is a stranger ; this small work has therefore been written with the intention of furnishing such general knowledge of the most im- portant portions of the Canadas, as will enable him to form a proper estimate of the soil, climate, produce of the country, amount of population, state of so- 28 THE emigrant's ciety, religion, agriculture, cities, towns and villages, roads and canals, lakes and rivers, the system of go- vernment, and of the various means of obtaining land and the title therein. It is not unusual for the emigrant on arriving in America to feel disappointed and dissatisfied, and many for a short time regret having left their native country. Every thing appears strange, especially to the warm-hearted Irishman ; he cannot forget the hos- pitality to which he has been accustomed — strangers and interested persons are frequently to be met with — the scenery, manners, customs, and the language of a considerable portion of the inhabitants, differ from what he has been accustomed to at home, and many are watching for opportunities to take advan- tage of his inexperience. He is therefore for a time disposed to form an opinion unfavourable to America, without considering that he has but just landed in a strange city or seaport town, and that it was never his intention to settle in such a place. It is also pro- bable that he may have conceived too high expecta- tions of what was to be immediately possessed in the country — a thing which not unfrequently happens, from the numerous exaggerated and extravagant ac- counts that have been transmitted by ignorant and foolish persons of very little experience themselves ; it is therefore necessary to caution the emigrant against suffering himself to despond, as many persons have been led astray by such expectations, as well as by the equally fallacious and more flattering state- GUIDE TO CANADA. 29 nients of others who may have pointed out various distant settlements where ease and comfort are to be had. The stranger travels from place to place, and at length, when his means are exhausted, he is ob- liged to settle in a situation far inferior to many that he has passed by; finding, when too late, that he might have obtained good land in many ad- vantageous situations, without spending his money and time as he has done, and which he could have avoided had he received a fair and unbiassed account of the country. To emigrants of the labouring class, I would re- commend a speedy application for work, and if it cannot be had in Quebec immediately after they land, they should at once proceed into the countiy, to some of the nearest settlements, where they will most pro- bably succeed without any considerable delay. Let them, however, not refuse the first fair offer of em- ployment, as it is much better to be engaged ; and in a short time they M'ill become acquainted with the manners and customs of the people, their method of farming, &c., and, if industrious, sober, and honest* they will speedily get higher wages and certain em- ployment. Public works are also carried on, such as canals, roads, bridges, and public buildings, in which many find employment and good wages, varying from half a dollar to three shillings per day without board. In the Townships of Upper and Lower Canada, higher wages for labour are given than in the French Canadian settlements near the St. Laurence: the in- habitants on each side of that river, all through 30 THE emigrant's Canada, and to the extent of five or six miles back from its north and south banks, are generally of French extraction and speak that language ; for which reason, to the British labourer many difficulties pre- sent themselves that are not to be feared among his own countiymen. There are many, however, that can speak English, and if the emigrant can obtain em- ployment he should not refuse it, as he may have offers in the French settlements ; but it would not be adviseable for him to seeh for work among them, when the Townships, which arc inhabited by British and Irish emigrants, lie so convenient, being immedi- ately in the rere of the French Seigniories. In a short time, the labourer will be enabled to purchase a lot or farm, which is easy to be had in all parts of the country ; so that in a few years, he may, by sober honest industry, expect to live comfortably, and get forward in the world. When he once becomes the proprietor of a piece of land, all his work is for his own benefit, no rent or taxes being to be paid : he has the full produce of the soil for his support ; and the surplus he can send to market, when and how he pleases, as he is not in dread of the agent coming to distrain him for the rent, or the collector of the county cess, or the tithe proctor, with many others which are the daily visitors of the farmer in England and Ireland. It is this that makes the Canadian farmer feel really independent ; — in fact he is the lord and master of his own estate , and many that have landed i n Quebec without a pound in the icorld, have been GUIDE TO CANADA. 81 able to realize by this course what is here represented, and can now, from their having had themselves sub- stantial proof of its reality, testify that it is not an imaginary picture, but one to be met in Canada every day. However, it is necessary to observe that the idler, the drunkard, or the seditious, must abandon his vicious practices and habits, and in fact become ano- ther man, before he can expect to succeed in Canada : —to such it holds out no expectations of success ; and many are to be met with who, while they have left their native country, have not, however, left be- hind them their former vices — these were poor and wretched before they set out for Canada, and their condition has been little improved by change of country. How galling has it often been to the sym- pathies of a tender-hearted emigrant, to recognise some old neighbour reaping the fruits of his miscon- duct, while chained to the stocks or undergoing some other deserved penalty, notwithstanding a hope he might have entertained that the unhappy culprit had left home with full purpose of amendment. Emigrants who have got any capital should, as soon as possible after landing, decide on the part of the country they wish to settle in, and at once proceed to examine it ; the distance and delay to be measured by the depth of their purses — that is, if their means be small they must seek for land as near as they can match themselves, and not foolishly exhaust their money in moving to distant places, while suitable situations may be obtained near at hand. Prudence 32 THE emigrant's and promptitude should guide their conduct, and they may comfort themselves with the expectation that in a reasonable time, by perseverance and industry, their exertions shall be crowned with success. Strang-ers on arriving in Canada are often liable to be imposed upon, not because in it are to be found more impostors than in other countries; but they meet many person willing to offer their advice, which, un- less from an intelligent friend, should be received with the utmost caution. Wild, visionary, or romantic ideas or situations should not be the objects of pursuit, and nothing, however attractive at first view, should determine the choice, unless upon sober deliberation it were found to have circumstances connected with it to render the speculation a prudent one : — the salu- tary counsel of a disinterested friend should always be a desirable thing, as it will ever be found to be of great service, but especially in cases where inexperi- ence is a bar to the competency of our own unaided judgment. In Quebec his Majesty has appointed A. C. Buchan- nan, Esq., Resident Agent, for the purpose of giving information^raii* to settlers; to him they should apply, as he will be able to give them much useful informa- tion and instructions, and point out where lands and employment may most probably and readily be ob- tained. Before giving further directions it may be neces- sary to insert a few cautions to the stranger arriving in Canada. And in the first place, temperance is GUIDE TO CANADA. 33 earnestly recommended ; many upon landing feel elated at having' once more fixed their feet on Jirm kind, and all sorts of spirituous liquors being cheap, when their prices are compared with those for which they are purchased at home, they are often led to in- dulge too freely in the use of them ; not always with the intent of pursuing such a course of intoxication, but to gratify the desire of the moment, when, alas ! a vicious inclination gratified, even for a short time, more generally leads to a confirmed habit, and this brings on, as its necessary consequence, poverty, dis- ease, and all sorts of misery, which by a very natural combination must eventually secure the death of their unhappy victim ! Hundreds, yea thousands, have in these provinces been hurried to an untimely grave by this habit — persons who were once temperate, but whose intemperance it is believed may be traced to the above mentioned origin. Emigrants will there- fore do well, both for themselves, their families, and society in general, by avoiding this baneful practice, however difficult their palates may find it to resist its baneful solicitations, or whatever false estimate they may themselves form of its contributing to promote sociabiHty. They should always be cautious of taking draughts of cold water in warm weather, or when heated by labour and exertion, as it frequently in this country causes instantaneous death. Again, it is necessary to caution the stranger that he may often meet persons who will urge him to travel inland to distant parts, out of pure regard for c3 34 THE emigrant's his welfare as they will assort ; but, on enquiry, they are generally found to be individuals interested in the disposal of lands to which they would direct the at- tention of the unsuspecting emigrant, or in steam boats and other modes of conveyance from which, of course, a profit must be derived to themselves pro- portional to the number that may avail themselves of the accommodation which they offer to persons pro- ceeding in the same direction. Nothing is more common in Quebec on the arrival of a vessel with passengers, than for agents of steam boats, and such friends, to go on board and advise those who are about landing to proceed to Montreal since, according to their representations, no wise person would stop short of that part of the country.* The poor deluded stranger is again advised in Montreal, by other pre- tended friends who may be found interested in trans- porting goods or passengers to Upper Canada, that he should by all means proceed upwards ; for what wise man, say they, who has yet to settle himself, would remain in the lower province where he could get nothing but French onions and soup meagre. — The thankful wanderer is in this manner handed from one to another until he is at length introduced to the blessings of the western wilderness ; and no doubt should often be forwarded to the pacific ocean, if his * It is but fair to state that the proprietors of the steamers on the St. Laurence are very liberal to emigrants in reducing the fare. K. GUIDE TO CANADA. 35 purse continued unexhausted, or could he ?ini\ friendly carriers to accommodate him with the modes of con- veyance. He will also meet friends still more lavish of their benevolence, who would fain persuade him, that no wise man desirous of pursuing the most effec- tual plan for the advancement of his interests, should remain in the British provinces, and that friendly persons could be procured who for a reasonable com- pensation would conduct him into the United States. Such has been heretofore the practice, and the newly arrived emigrant would do well to weigh in the ba- lance of sense and discretion the advantage and ne- cessity of proceeding very far inland, as, if led on by no other prospects or certain inducements than wild speculations, he may run the risk, after having considerably diminished his capital by the expenses connected with travelling, of being reduced to the alternative of taking up his abode in a settlement considerably inferior, in point of all advantages, to what he might have procured lower down, with much less troulde, and before he should have incurred the expenses of his journey ; or, taking all things into consideration, not better than he might have possessed himself of in a week after landing. Doubtless, hav- ing connections in distant parts, and particular views, with various other considerations, will and should influence a man to make a choice and proceed accord- ingly ; but more on this head hereafter. These cautions are given merely to make the stranger aware, that every inducement which may be held out to him 36 THE emigrant's on landing- will not always prove such as should have any weight in regulating his determination. In most parts of the Canadas good land is to be found, but in this the emigrant must expect to find some disad- vantages connected with advantages, as well in Ame- rica as in any part of Europe. GUIDE TO CANADA. 37 SECTION III. DIRECTIONS UELATINO TO VARIOUS PARTS OF LOAVER CANADA FAVOURABLE FOR SETTLING IX, WITH A FEW OBSERVATIONS ON THE SETTLEMENTS ALREADY F0R3IED. Having briefly given a general outline of the Lower and Upper Provinces, with the roads and distances between the several places of any impor- tance, and haying suggested a few particulars which the newly-arrived emigrant may find of use to put him on his guard against imposition ; we shall now proceed to take a view of several of the most favour- able parts of Lower Canada, such as may probably prove most agreeable to the settler, and have also got the greatest quantity of wild land still unoccu- pied. The Seignorial parts of the Province being mostly taken up by Canadians of French extraction, or Ukely to be so in a short time by their families, the Townships present the most encouraging field to the industry of the emigrant ; being in fact also the best land in the Province, and English being the language spoken among the inhabitants in consequence 38 THE emigrant's of their being themselves persons not long arrived from the United Kingdom, and from the States. There are, however, many parts of the Seigniories yet unoccupied, in which are to be found very favour- able situations as well as cleared farms easy to be obtained ; and many emigrants have purchased farms of this description in the Seigniories, especially in the vicinity of Quebec and Montreal. In the country parts hereafter mentioned, the emi- grant may apprehend that he should be at too great a distance from the great markets of the Province, not being acquainted with the country; but it may be observed that farmers residing two hundred miles or more, from Quebec and Montreal, if on good land, can live well and improve in their circumstances if not better, at least as well as those who have taken up their residence within a few miles of the cities.— This being the fact, I feel desirous to impress it on the minds of those for whose information I am writ- ing these pages, that the colonist who makes choice of a more distant settlement is not liable to the ex- penses incuiTed near Towns, and farms are had on much cheaper terms. For many years he finds for the surplus of his produce a consumption on the spot among those who are daily arriving, and who must for some time, before they can enjoy the fruits of their own labour, supply themselves with the articles necessary for present use from the stock of those who have already settled themselves ; and fat cattle, hogs, and horses are easily conveyed to distant markets, or GUIDE TO CANADA. 09 they are bought up by the drovers before it is found necessary to remove them. The first I shall notice are the Townships in the county of Beauce ; lying about 30 miles south by east of Quebec. In one of these, the Township of Hampton, there is a settlement newly formed by emigrants, which contains at present a population of seven or eight hundred. The land, though light, is of a very fair quality, and the occupiers generally doing well. In this, and in the adjoining Townships, what is denominated wild land can be purchased at five shillings an acre, or even less. Carters may be engaged at Point Levi, to convey loading to this place, at from 7s. 6d. to 10s. Od. per load ; and to that part of the country the road is good. From Beauce we shall proceed to describe in succession as they extend to the west, the several Township Coun- ties heretofore known as the eastern Townships ; though they are more properly the southern Town- ships of the Province. The next to Beauce, and to the west of it, is the county of Megantic, the way to which from Quebec is by the Craigs road, or the Kennebec road up the Chaudiere river. The settlements already established there, are situated on and near the Craigs road, in the Townships of Leeds, Inverness, Ireland, Hallifax^ and Broughton ; the principal ones being in Ireland, Leeds, and Inverness. These have only been lately formed, and in a manner very much to their credit, and furnish a demonstration of the industry of the occu- 40 THE emigrant's piers who amount to about 2000 souls. Leeds, as has been shown in the Account of Roads and Dis- tances, is from Quebec 40 miles S. by W., and is the place of election for this county. The lands in these Townships are generally good, easily cleared, and such as in which situations can be had that present to the industrious a variety of advantages : they are well irrigated by the head waters of the St. Francis, Nicolet, Becancour, and Chaudiere rivers, and the face of the couutry undulated with gently rising hills and fertile vallies. Several small lakes, (the most considerable of which is the Megantic, at the head of the Chaudiere River, from which the county derives its name,) with ponds, brooks, and a number of rivers, beautifully diversify the scenery, and to the places through which they pass impart an unusual fertility ; so that of this it may in truth be said that it has experienced from the bountiful hand of Nature much liberality in the distribution of her favours. Mill-sites and water power are to be found in abundance, and will not be wanting when a nume- rous population may require these necessary conveni- ences ; saw-mills in particular are indispensible ap- pendages to all new settlements in the wilderness. Grass when cultivated, or the seed sown, grows with gi'eat luxuriance in all the Townships, and here all the other productions of the soil in this province may be raised with advantage ; and among the many r luxuries with which the agriculturist may ex- pect to have his industry rewarded, is to be reckoned GUIDE TO CANADA. 4l the maple sug-ar which, in its proper season is extracted from the trees of that name in such man- ner as shall be hereafter described. Although a very considerable proportion of the lands in the neigh- bourhood of the settlements, has been already grant- ed, but a very small part, however, is yet settled on. Many thousand acres, of excellent quality, are the property of the heirs of Joseph Frobisher, Esq. and are now offered for sale. Here the price of land va- ries much, being- from four to ten shillings per acre, near the settlements ; but in other quarters may be had on much cheaper terms. Two small lakes, one in Ireland, and the other in Halifax and Inverness, both connected by a small river, form for boats a water communication of about twenty miles, which could be easily extended north to the St. Laurence, eighteen miles, and south to the lake St. Francis, two miles. It could still, with com- paratively trifling expense, be continued down the St. Francis to Lennoxville, and thence through lake Massiwippi to lake Magog, in Stanstead. This would be of incalculable advantage to the townships. For such a communication as I have now described. Na- ture appears to have formed this rout between Que- bec and lake INIagog, as vallies, gullies, ponds, lakes, and dead waters, seem to invite the hand of man to lend its co-operation, and take advantage of the faci- lities which they offer to the rapid progress of art : and what presents most encouragement to such a Avork is that, than the tract of the country through 42 THE emigrant's which it should pass, is one of the most fertile in the Canadas. From surveys, made in the United States, a canal is projected to connect the head of lake Ma- gog with lake Champlain, to the west, and the Con- necticut river to the east ; a part of lake Magog lying within the state of Vermont, A view of a map of these sections, will at once point out the importance and feasibility of the communication proposed ; and a tax of one penny per acre on the lands through which it should pass, would provide a fund adequate to complete it in three years. This county is very large, comprising the townships of Somerset, Nel- son, Halifax, Inverness, Ireland, Wolfstown, Leeds Thetford, Broughton, Coleraine, Tring, Shenley, Oul- ney, Winslow, Dorset, and Gayhurst ; each contain- ing in surface, about one hundred square miles of land. In these infant settlements, they enjoy the be- nefit of several elementary schools ; and in Leeds, there is an English church in progress, with a settled minister ; in Ireland they have got a Wesleyan Me- thodist chapel. The respective populations of the inhabited townships are nearly as follow : — Leeds, 800; Inverness, 900; Ireland, 500; Hahfax, 50; Broughton, 200 ; and scattered here and there, 250 souls. The next county which claims the attention of the settler, is that of Drumraond, lying west of the last county noticed, and north of Sherbrooke ; and nearly central between Quebec, Montreal, Three Rivers, and the United States. This county though GUIDE TO CANADA. 43 large, is not populous, having but about 3,000 inha- bitants. It comprises the townships of Aston, Bui- strode, Horton, Stanfold, Athabaska, Chester, Ham, Wotton, Tingwick, Warwick, Wendover, Simpson, Kingsey, Durham, Wickham, Grantham, Upton, and Acton, with their gores and augmentations. The part of it to the north, in the townships of Wen- dover, Simpson, Upton, Grantham, and part of Wick- ham, and adjoining the seignories, is generally of an inferior quality, except in a few situations. In these latter townships generally, the land does not appear to be inviting to emigrants ; yet it is freely taken by Canadians of French extraction, who exhibit much patience and perseverance in turning their attention to the improvement of such places. Interspersed many lots are to be met with of a superior quality, and furnishing to the improving occupier, an abun- dance of blue marley clay, which can be conveniently raised to enrich the lands requiring such ame- lioration. South and east of these townships, in the same county, the land is very good, few in the province exceeding in quality of soil, &c., the townships of Kingsey, Tingwick, Chester, Durham, and part of Wickham : they are also well watered by the St. Francis and Nicolet rivers, whose fertilizing powers are aided by the friendly contributions of many small streams. Drummondville village, which is forty-five miles from and to the south of, Three Rivers, and thirty- 44 THE e.mighant's Tsix miles south-east of William Henry, is the county town, being the place of election, and where the Re- gistry Office is kept. It contains about twenty houses, a Protestant Episcopal, as also a Roman Ca- tholic church, a school-house under the Royal Insti- tution, several stores, a post-office, and two good ta- verns. This section was a wilderness until the year 1815-16, when government decided on forming a set- tlement on the tract of waste land between the seigniories on the St. Laurence, and the townships to the south. Drummondville was chosen for a mili- tary settlement, that is, for discharged soldiers ; not to the exclusion of any other emigrants who may choose to fix their residence there : each settler was located to one hundred acres of land, and had a year's provisions granted by government, as also a variety of tools and some other matters that might have been considered necessary to contribute to the comforts of an infant colony. The expense attendant upon such encouragement becoming enormous to the govern- ment, it was found necessary to withdraw it, which check, combined with the failure of the crops in the years 1816 and 1817, and with the circumstance of the land itself being generally of inferior quality, caused many who had settled there to abandon it. Since that time many of the deserted lots have been occupied by families of French Canadians, with every favourable prospect of success. This village was al- most wholly consumed by fire, in the year 1826 ; but has since arisen from its ashes. About half a mile GUIDE TO CANADA. 45 lower tlown, is the seat of Colonel Herriot, C.B. and P.A.D., who, from the commencement, was superin- tendant of this settlement, and has been exerting all his influence to forward its importance : he was the first member returned to represent, in the provincial pailiament, the county, after its establishment in the year 1829. Being a near relative of the late much lamented General Brock, Governor of Upper Canada, who lost his life at the battle of Queenstown, in the late war with the States ; and having also distin- guished himself during the same war, as Field Officer in command of the Lower Canada provincial troops, Colonel Herriot now deservedly enjoys the confi- dence of his government. To the Indians of the St. Francis, or Abinaquois tribe, belongs a large tract in the township of Dur- ham ; but, though given to them on condition of set- tlement, they have never effectually attempted to improve it. Some years since, their agent, with their own consent, leased a number of lots to persons who removed from the Drummondville settlement princi- pally, the land in which the Indians had property being very good. The leases were given for twenty- one years free ; after the expiration of which term the tenant is obliged to pay annually, one-third of the produce of all crops raised. Litigation and trou- ble are likely to arise from this confused and uncer- tain tenure ; but the land being of such a quality as presents striking inducements to its cultivation, im- provements have been made with considerable advan- 46 THE emigrant's tage by tlie lessees ; how far the title may hold goop is a question yet to be decided. Land is easily got in this county at from three to five shillings per acre ; and here, as well as the county of Sherbrooke, of which we shall presently give a sketch, several extensive landholders offer por- tions of lots, of fifty acres or more, off the original lots of ^00 acres, to actual settlers, on condition of settlement, and keeping in repair the road across the parts so taken up, until the remainder shall have been sold or occupied. The township of Kingsey was the first part of this county that was colonized, thirty years ago, and novv' exhibits a very flourishing settlement. They have in all the settlements established elementary schools and school-houses, in which also religious meetings are held, whenever they are visited by mi- nisters. The inhabitants of the county are almost wholly British emigrants ; and but a few Canadians and Americans from other quarters. The principal roads, as already noticed in the account of roads and distances, are the Craigs road, which, passing through the county of Megantic, enters this county, and through Chester and Tingwick leads on to Rich- mond, Sherbrook, &c. ; the St. Gregoire road, which, from Three Rivers, passes through Acton, Horton, Wendover, Simpson, and Kingsey, meeting the road up the eastern side of the St. Francis to Richmond ; and the Ymaska road, which passes from William Henry through Upton and Grantham, to Drummond- GUIDE TO CANADA. 47 ville, meeting the road up the western bank of the St. Francis, to Durham, Melbourn, Richmond, Sher- brooke, Sec. The populations of the settled townships respec- tively, are nearly as follow : — Upton, 200 ; Horton and Aston, 100; Wendover, 200; Grantham, 600; Simpson, 50 ; Wickhara, 300 ; Durham, 500 ; King- sey, 600 ; Tingwick, 203 ; Chester, and scattered in the other townships, 100 souls. The next county of importance to the emigrant, being more extensive and more thickly inhabited than either of the former, is that of Sherbrooke, lying south-west of Megantic, and south of Druramond counties, and north of latitude 45, and the State of Vermont. It comprises the townships of Garthby Hat ford, Whitton, Marston, Clinton, Woburn, Stan- hope, Croydon, Chesham, Adstock, Tingwick, Wee- don, Dudswell, Bury, Hampden, Ditton, Emberton, Drayton, Auckland, Newport, Westbury, Stoke, As- cot, Eatoru Hereford, Compton, CHfton, Windsor, Brompton, Shipton, Melbourne, and Orford, with their gores and augmentations. This county is well wa- tered by the head waters of the rivers St. Francis and Nicolet, with brooks, which are to be found in great abundance ; the face of the country is hilly, but not mountainous, unless a small ridge in Stoke and Westbury ; and both soil and climate are more favour- able than in the counties before described. The townships near the leading roads which pass through this county, offer considerable advantages to the agri- 48 THE emigrant's culturist ; most of those already settled there have been brought up in the wilderness, having chiefly emigrated from the United States, whose industry, enterprising dispositions, and habits of settlement in a new country, have, in a great measure, opened this tract to the more easy access of such other settlers as may feel disposed, by setting their steady and per- severing examples before them, to participate in their comforts. There are also in this county many others, who have emigrated from the United Kingdom, to- gether with some families of French descent ; they are settled in a way both advantageous and creditable to themselves, thus, by their present condition, de- monstrating that this country bountifully rewards the efforts of those who steadily pursue a course of ap- plication and industry, in places teeming with bene- fits to as many as here court the favours of Provi- dence, by bringing the fertility of the soil into active and skilful operation. The population of the whole county may, at present, be estimated at about 10,000 individuals. The village of Sherbrooke is the county town, in it being kept the Registry Office ; but the election is held at Richmond, in Shipton, as well as at Sher- brooke. The latter is also the seat of judicial pro- ceedings for the district of St. Francis. It is situated on the south-west bank of the river St. Francis, where it is joined by the waters of the Magog, whose descent into the former affords many of the advan- tages of water communication. It contains about GUIDE TO CANADA. 49 thirty houses, besides a court-house, a good substan- tial brick jaiJ, a Protestant church, a Roman CathoHc church, a meeting: and school-house, flour and saw mills, pearl-ash works, a post-oflice, several country stores, &c. ; also a woollen factory, lately erected by C. F. H. Goodhue, Esq., which is likely to do well. This village appears well situated for trade, and has a good deal of intercourse with the different parts of the district. Although it has not much flourished heretofore, it is to be hoped that through the enter- prising spirit and activity of the chief proprietors, the Hon. Mr. Felton, and C. F. H. Goodhue, Esq., it will make a rapid progress in the several branches of improvement, situated, as it is, in the midst of a beau- tiful country, and surrounded with good land, which is as yet but partially settled on, to the east, west, and north. A Weekly Newspaper is published h^-e. About six miles west of Sherbrooke is Belvedere, the residence of the Hon. Mr. Felton, Commissioner for the management and sale of crown lands, and what are called clergy reserves. In the year 1816, he com- menced his settlement in this place, then entirely a wil- derness; and, with a great expenditure of capital before roads were opened, cleared about a thousand acres, and built a handsome dwelling-house, offices, farm- houses, &c. A road passes Mr. Felton's place, from Sherbrooke to outlet of Magog, and meets the Stanstead and Montreal road.* • See Roads and Distances, &c. D 50 THE emigrant's The village of Richmond, in the township of Ship' ton, twenty-two miles below Sherbrooke, is, as has been already observed, the other place of election for this county ; and is situated on the east bank of the river St. Francis, where the Craigs road, from Quebec, meets that river. This village has about a dozen good dwelling-houses, (several built of brick,) a Protestant Episcopal church and school, two excellent and extensive hotels, a post-office, three or four country stores, tanneries, batteries, also large stone-built grist and saw mills, with ex- tensive pearl-ash works, &c., chiefly the property of W. S. Wales, Esq. An academy to be built of brick, is in progress, which, when finished, will be of great advantage to this part of the country. On the side of the St. Francis, opposite Richmond, in the town- ship of Melbourne, is also a rising village, which has got several good buildings, a meeting-house, stores, &c. Also ten miles north-east from Richmond, on the Craigs road, commonly called the Back of Ship- ton, there is a flourishing settlement, and a village, the name of which is Danville : having several stores, a meeting-house, schools, pearl-ash works, fulling and carding-machines, &c. Between Dan- ville and Richmond may be seen a small, but neat, Roman Catholic chapel ; and in the township are also Presbyterian and Methodist congregations. South of Sherbrooke, about four miles, is situated the village of Lennoxyille, which has got about a dozen good dwelling-houses, a Protestant Episcopal GUIDE TO CANADA. 51 thurch, a meeting and school-house, a country store, a tavern, post-office, c*tc. From Lennoxville a road nins eastwardly to Eaton, which is rather well settled. In Eaton, there are two Episcopal churches, two stores, several schools, tan- neries, pearl-ash works, &c. ; tlvere is also here a Baptist Society, and some others of various denomi- nations. The country from Lennoxville to Compton, a dis- tance of ten miles, is well settled. In Compton, there are two country stores, an Episcopal church, a post-office, several mills, &c, &c. Eaton and Compton contain each a population of ahout 1,500; Ascot about 1,200; Shipton, 1,500. Melbourne, 800 ; Hereford, 200 ; Clifton, 150 ; West- bury, 100 ; Dudswell, 250 ; Stoke, 20 ; Orford, 300 ; Brompton, 300 ; and Windsor, 200 ; these being the only townships colonised in the county. The chief roads are— the Dudswell, passing from the county of Megantic, through Weedon, Dudswell, Bury, Westbury, Eargains are made by the number of dollars, as four dollars make one pound, which is a ready mode of calculating. It is hoped that this will not be consi- dered an irrelevant digression, as the emigrant who has not had experience himself in these matters, must require to be taught by others in order that he 84 THE emigrant's may find the less embarrassment in making such pre- liminary arrangements as are necessary before he can proceed to occupy himself in the more immediate works of agriculture. SOME MATTERS TO BE PROVIDED ON PROCEEDING TO SETTLE. Having now endeavoured to give, in what I con- ceived to be the most natural order, such directions and information so that the emigrant cannot be at a loss how to conduct himself in any of the prepara- tory steps to be taken, either in making choice of situation, ascertaining the quality and properties of the soil, making a purchase, or procuring a lease of a farm, and securing his title therein, I shall next pro- ceed to give such further hints as he may find useful, after all the other arrangements shall have been fully made to his satisfaction; before which, it may be no harm, in addition to what has been already said, again to remind him that however good the quality of the land may be or eligible its situation in other respects, it will nevertheless be of importance to pay attention to the following particulars : Whe- ther there be roads or communications leading to, from, or near such lands ; for if they do not possess these indispensible conveniences he ^vill find it a cij'- cumstance attended with much trouble, as there should be a road at least within three miles of him, GUIDE TO CANADA. dS if not more immediately contiguous. Whether they be in the vicinity of, or have easy access to, a market of some kind, either store, village, town, or city, as any one of them will generally answer the generation that settle the land ; grist and saw mills are equally necessary, not forgetting the neighbour- hood, neighbours, &c. And lastly, but not of least importance, the security or validity of the title in the land to be purchased. By paying due regard to these particulars, and acting with discretion and pru- dence, he may proceed at once to his land, and under the blessing of Divine Providence need not fear the result : sobriety, industry, and perseverance, will be sure to crown his exertions with the desired success. In proceeding thus at length, after he has sur- mounted all his preliminary troubles, to settle him- self on his farm, he will require to ascertain if pro- vision can be got in its immediate vicinity, if not to provide them in the most convenient place possible, as it will be well to save the expense of carriage ; otherwise he should buy them in the town before stai'ting. He should be also provided with suitable axes for chopping, with strong hoes, a spade, grind- ing stone, pickaxe, hand-saw, files, chissels, planes, a cross-cut saw, spoke-shave, hammers, nails, hinges, locks, glass, and putty. The axes, hoes, and grind- ing stone, are what he will find necessary for clear- ing, but the other implements will be found very convenient, as the settler will be able to do and get done many useful and necessary jobs by being pro- 86 THE emigrant's vided with them. Many, if not all, of these arti- cles may be got near the farm, especially the axes, and if cheap it will be best to buy them there, other- wise to purchase them where most convenient and cheapest. Loading-, whether passengers or lug-gage, will be conveyed for one penny a mile per cwt. land carriage, or less, according to circumstances : French Canadians will cart cheaper than any other, but the employed will remember to make the best bargain he can. In travelling by land it is customary to carry provisions for the road ; and to stop at any farmer's house for refreshment, as public houses are not always convenient on the different roads. It is in no wise recommended to the settler of contracted means to buy horses for a new farm, on which there is not much grass. A cow or two with a yoke of oxen (with a yoke and chain to work and clear land) can be easily supported on brushwood, and will live well in the woods, a few acres of which may be in- closed with fallen trees, so as to prevent the cattle from straying away ; but when accustomed to get a handful of salt once or twice a week, they will always return of their own accord ; however a good cow-bell should be strapped about the neck, to indicate, if necessary, where they may be found. Horned cattle may be nearly supported during the winter also on hardwood tops and brushwood. The following prices of cattle and articles are, what are generally given at present in Canada, which Avill not be found to differ much in either province, unless when the size GUIDE TO CANADA. 87 or breed make the alteration: A milch cow from 3?. to 51, ; a working- horse from 71. to 10/. ; sheep from 7s. 6d. to 15s. ; a yoke of oxen from 8/. to 12/. ; young pigs from 3s. to 4s., and, if six months old, from 10s. to 15s.; a plough from 2/. to 3/. ; an ass from 7s. 6d. to 10s., &c. ; but from these rates there must be often a deviation, as the season, place, and other circumstances, cause the prices to be either below or above those mentioned. In all cases it will be prudent for the settler to inquire concerning the value of such articles in the neighbourhood where he is purchasing- them, and to act accordingly in making his bargain. BUILDING. A supply of such necessaries as the settler may require heing provided, a convenient lodging in the neighbourhood of his farm will be the best to pro- cure until a log house can be erected. If this can- not be provided, a log camp may he speedily erected in a few hours, where a family can comfortably lodge for some time, and in which (being built with logs and covered over with bark, split timber, boards, or fir tops) more comfort will be found than ex- pected, especially after the confinement experienced by the emigrant on board ship. When this is effected another camp may be erected in which to place his goods, and thus he will find himself lodged at home on his ow7i estate ; which often gives more 88 THE emigrant's real satisfaction than elegant and costly mansions do to the great. Care should be taken that no large trees be left standing near the house or camp, which in falling might reach it, as in consequence of hav- ing their roots running near the surface they are liable to be laid prostrate by a sudden gust of wind. It would be advisable for the settler, if he have got the means, to employ a man accustomed to clear land for some time, by which way he would in a short time become fully acquainted with the business: or it Avould be well if he could contract for a job of three or four acres to be cleared off, which generally costs from two to three pounds per acre, the stumps of the trees being left in the ground, which is not only the usual plan, but in fact the best and cheapest. This he should get done round about the site of his intended buildings, which ought to be in a dry situation, and near good water. As soon as there is a sufficient space cleared for building a log house on, straight logs may be got from the timber cut down for clearing, or picked out up and down and drawn to the building site : — the best timber for that purpose is pine, spruce, cedar, hemlock, or fir ; and if these cannot be got, the straightest timber of any other kind convenient. The log-house should not be longer than from twenty-four to thirty feet at most, nor its breadth more than from twenty to twenty-four feet ; neither should the walls be raised more than ten or twelve feet ; for if the dimensions exceed these, as the logs decay they will be apt to give out and fall. In GUIDE TO CANADA. 89 general houses of this description are not so large. Under the hoiise should be dug out a good cellar, where potatoes, and all such other provisions as may require this precaution, could be preserved during winter from the frost, and in summer from the heat. It will be found easier to do this before the house is built, and if laid up with small logs, they will prevent the earth from falling in ; the cellar should not be within three feet of the breadth or length of the house, and ought to be five or six feet deep, if the place can be conveniently sunk so much. When a sufficient num- ber of logs are provided, the usual practice is for a few neighbours to assemble and assist the new settler in laying up the walls of his house, each log being mortised half way through at the angles for the cross one to rest in ; and by this means it becomes a firm building while the timbers last, which they may be expected to do for about twenty years. On laying up the logs over the parts intended for the doors and windows, notches are made large enough to admit a saw, that when the walls are up there may be no trouble in sawing them out to the proper size. When the rafters and ribs are set up, the may be covered with shingles of split pine or spruce, or with boards, if to be had near; but if these cannot be provided, the bark of elm, pine, or spruce, may be easily peeled off in June or Jul}', which makes a good covering for a few years, and is again easily got and renewed. After the house is covered in, if boards cannot be got, split hassicood, Jir, or pine, is used for flooring, hewn 90 THE emigrant's smooth, and pinned to the sills or beams of the floor. A house thus built, covered, and floored, may be got up for about 10/. by contract, but will not cost half so much if the economical plan here suggest- ed be attended to ; the owner will then have to finish it off as may be convenient and suited to his taste.^ The usual practice is to get small sashes and have them fitted in, a door hung on, stones collected and a chimney built in one end of the house, moss and splinters of wood stuffed well between the chinks of the logs, and plaistered over with mortar made of clay and sand ; and after all this has been executed, the house may be divided to suit the occupiers' com- fort and wishes. In such a house a family may live comfortably, cheered by the gratifying reflection that they are residing on their own estate, which will be- come more valuable every year, and for which they have not to pay 7'ent, taxes, nor any other of those charges, which have been to them, while in their native country, a source of perpetual uneasiness : where they can taste the sweets of freedom, indepen- dence, serenity, and repose. At the approach of winter it will be necessary to bank up the house with earth, about a foot high round the foundation on the outside, in order to secure the cellar against frost, and make the dwelling as warm as possible. In effecting these or other local improvements, informa- tion and assistance may be always got from those pre- viously settled, who are ever found ready to contri- bute in every possible way towards promoting the GUIDE TO CANADA. 91 comforts of a new comer to the busJi : a fellow feeling that prevails on such occasions, as well as a desire to see their neighbours settled, causes all to interest themselves in the welfare of the industrious new settler. A small pig or two may be advantageously fed on the offal of the house, a yard being enclosed for them, and the ensuing year they will be found to contribute to the comforts of the family, after pota- toes and other agricultural produce shall have been raised. In parts where beech and oak grow, hogs feed and fatten on the nuts and acorns, without any other assistance ; but care should be taken that they trespass not on the neighbours' crops. A few fowls will also be a convenience, and are easily kept ; it will be necessary, however, to defend them from hawks, foxes, and any other enemies to which they may be liable to fall a prey. CLEARING LAND. In clearing land to advantage, there is need of much art and dexterity, and notwithstanding any directions that may be given, a settler desirous of learning, will gain more by trying to derive j-jj-ac^icft/ information from observing those who are well acquainted with that business, than by volumes written on the theory. He is therefore advised to observe for himself, or employ some person who has been brought np in such work, or at least well acquainted with it ; for some will clear an acre of land with one third of the la- 92 THE emigrant's bour that others have in doing' so, and labour saved in that way is as good as money saved. However, for the information of the stranger, I will here add methods usually pursued in clearing, as he may not always find it easy to get such labourers as are most profitable ; and useful practical hints may occasionally prove salutary. A piece of dry land, or tolerably so, near the house, is the most advisable to begin with. The most approved method of clearing, especially if hardwood land, is to cut down the brushwood close to the ground, with a bush-hook or axe ; in order to preserve the edge, the blow should be given up, but as close to the ground as possible, that the stumps should not afterwards obstruct the harrowing. This should be thro\vn in heaps, that when dry it may burn off the better, on burning the other timber. When the brushwood is cut and piled on the piece intended to be cleared, chopping down the large timber may be proceeded with according to the following plan : — Observe to which side the tree inclines, if to any, and on that side or near it chop in about two feet from the ground ; chop sloping down above, and straight in below, so as that the stump shall be left quite flat. After having cut in more than half way, minding to do it straight across, begin to cut on the opposite side, about an inch or more higher than the former in- cision ; and work in as before, having one cut sloping down, and the other horizontal; Avhen the tree begins to crac^ or shake, it should be watched at each blow of GUIDE TO CANADA. 93 the axe, until you see it begin to fall ; and then step one side, sufficiently out of the way, as trees often bound, and are dangerous in falling. Care should also be taken that it fall not upon another tree, as the getting it down will be attended with some trouble and danger : dead, dry, or broken limbs should also be watched lest they should fall on the chopper. Up- right trees may be made fall in any particular direction that may be desired, by chopping first and deepest into the side at which it is required it should fall ; a little experience and observation, with presence of mind, caution, and prudence, will only be necessary. When the tree is fallen the limbs should be cut off into heaps, after which the body is to be cut up into lengths of 10 or 12 feet ; then take another and pro- ceed in the same manner, which will cause them not to interfere with one another. Six men accustomed to this work, will, if diligent, chop about an acre in a day. In about a month or six weeks, or sooner if in sum- mer when the leaves are on, the timber thus cut will be fit to burn, particularly if there be a few dry days previous to firing it ; it will be best to do so when there is a light wind blowingyrom the buildings, and then the fire should be put in the windi/ side of the field chopped down, and it willspread thebetteramongthe fallen timber: it should be done about 10 or 12 o'clock in the day. When the fierceness of the fire is past, the brands and small wood may be thrown in heapa on the larger timber ; and the heavy logs are afterwards to be hauled together with oxen, or rolled with hand- 94 THE emigrant's spikes into heaps, and burned off. As the piles are burned out, the ashes may be saved for pot or pearl ash manufactories, being worth from six to ten shillings per bushel for that purpose, if care be taken to preserve it from wet. The land is then fit for planting or sowing in, and, if at a proper season, the sooner the better after the fire becomes entirely extinguished. Others again clear their land by first chopping down the brushwood, leaving it scattered as it falls ; after which they cut down the large trees, and cut off the limbs, leaving them also scattered as they fall, but do not chop up the body of the tree. When sufficiently dry, it is set on fire as before, and let burn off; after which, such logs as are not burned are chopped up, rolled or drawn together in heaps, and burned off as already mentioned. When time or labour is scarce in spring, many defer burning off the heavy timber, and plant potatoes, Indian corn, or some other crops among the logs, which answers very well when time does not admit of the land being wholly cleared off, as when the crop is off in the fall the timber is easily chopped and burned. The settler can pursue either plan, as both are followed with success. He will of course perceive that what is meant by clearing off the land does not include taking out the stumps of the trees ; as they rot out by degrees, and injure the land less by being left to do so, than by digging them out, a process in the course of which the poor clay is drawn up to the surface : they will soon rot, and can be drawn out or burned off with ease GUIDE TO CANADA. 95 when dry. The stumps are very little in the way of farming to advantage, as the ground may be ploughed and planted between them without any difficulty, espe- cially by a person accustomed to them; their chief evil is the unsightly appearance they present to the eye of an European, who is used to clear and level fields. FENCING. In clearing land, suitable timber may be selected for fencing, and drawn or carried to the places where such enclosures are to be made ; but they should not be erected before the fire is past, or it may burn them down again. Various methods of fencing are resorted to, but if the place cleared be surrounded on all sides by the woods, a row of trees felled one after the other, with such additions as may be requisite, will be a sufficient temporary fence. When clearings join the road or other clearings, a more regular fence will be requisite, which is generally constructed on new lands, with logs cut twelve or fourteen feet long, and about a foot or more thick ; they are laid up thus : — The largest are laid next the ground, lapping about a foot of each end, side by side : some put a cross block under the lapped ends of the logs, to raise them from the ground : on this row of logs is placed another, with cross blocks under their ends, as under the first, and with notches in the blocks for the end 96 THE emigrant's of the logs to lie in ; and by again laying on this ano- ther row of smaller logs as before, the fence is com- pleted, three rows high being generally suflScient, if the logs of which they are composed be large. Some drive two stakes by each side of every length of the logs to cross at the top, on which they place long heavy poles, to render the fence firm and strong. Others again lay up what is called a zig-zag fence, which they construct with poles, and find to answer very well ; but the former will stand fifteen or twenty years and is very firm. The settler may, as soon as he has got his land cleared please himself by a choice of the many sorts of fencing used in the country ; and as good and firm ones are so very necessary to preserve the fruits of the farmer's labour, he will do well to have his land sufficiently secured that way, in order to guard against trespassers which would in a short time ruin the prospects of a crop, if it were left at their mercy. SOWING AND PLANTING NEW CLEARED LAND. When the settler has a piece of land cleared, he should not think of sowing wheat after the first of June, although it is sometimes done in Lower Cana- da, on new well burnt land, any day during the first week of that month ; the author himself had a good crop of wheat which was not sown till the eighth of GUIDE TO CANADA. 97 June ; but this should not be depended on, and the earlier the better. Oats, harley, Indian corn, beans, and lye, may be sowed on new land, the first ten days of June to advantage, and potatoes may be planted all the month ; but, as observed before, the earlier the crops are put down, if the land be fit, the less danger will there be of their being injured by the early frosts in autumn. Iflieat, tye, and peas re- quire to be earhest sowed, and should be put in ground as soon as ever it is free from frost in spring and fit in other respects, but the above time is men- tioned as the latest period for sowing them. In such parts of new land as grain is to be sowed in, the piece designed for that purpose should be harrowed among the stumps, in length and across, with a har- row made like the letter A, and having nine large teeth, two inches square, which should be drawn by the top by a strong horse, or yoke of oxen ; by this process the land is pulverized, and considerably im- proved for receiving the seed. When this is done one bushel of wheat, rye, or peas, will be sufficfent for an acre, and of barley or oats one and a half bushel. After sowing the seed, harrow the ground, well as before, and should any remain uncovered, round stumps, or in any other place out of the reach of the harrow, it may be covered in M'ith a hand hoe ; many poor settlers, when they cannot procure har- rows or oxen, hoe in all their grain, and raise good crops. After it is harrowed in, it requires no further labour till the crop is fit for cutting, unless to cut 98 THE emigrant's down weeds or sprouts when they overtop it. With this cultivation wheat will produce from ten to twenty five bushels or more per acre, but fifteen is considered a fair return. Rye yields about the same produce, and will do best in a light dry soil that may not an- swer for wheat: — Oats and Barley from twenty to forty bushels per acre : — Peas from ten to twenty bushels ; — much of course depends on the care taken, the soil, season, and some other accidental circum- stances. Buckwheat may be sown about the last of June, and will take about four gallons of seed to the acre ; if it succeeds well it will give a return of from thirty to fifty bushels. After the smaller grain is sowed, Indian corn, potatoes, and other vegetables, (unless those of the kitchen-garden, Avhich may be put down sooner,) demand the settler's attention. Indian corn should be planted as soon as possible after the first of May, but may be put later in new land than in old. After the ground has been harrowed, if it be entirely cleared off, the planter having the seed in a small bag tied round his waist, commences the process of planting by striking his hoe into the ground, raising the earth a little by lowering the handle, and dropping in three or four grains ; then withdrawing the hoe, he takes a step forward, treading down the earth on the seed, and striking it in again about three feet from the former incision, so proceeds ; the corn being buried about two inches in the earth, and in- tervals of about three feet being left between the rows and hills, it will require no other attendance GUIDE TO CANADA. 99 but weeding, until ripe. In every third or fourth hill or row, two or three pumpkiii seeds may be thrown in with the corn, as they grow well with it, and when ripe are found very valuable to feed cattle or hogs — the Americans also make good palatable pies of them. About a gallon of Indian corn is suffi- cient to plant an acre, and if soaked in warm water and copperas water, it will sprout the quicker ; the copperas will also have the effect of preventing ver- min or birds from destroying it when coming up. Some plant corn in new land, by scooping out a a httle earth with the hoe, and, after they have dropped in the seed, cover it over in a small hill ; the former plan answers as well, and is done with much more expedition. It will produce in a warm summer, from twenty to fifty bushels per acre, and makes good bread or pudding, and is found a useful ingredient in several other luxuries. It is a common thing to cut off the tops a few inches above the ear or cob when it is full ; which being dried and carried home, make such fodder for cows, horses, and sheep, as they are very fond of, and is, if well saved, better than many sorts of hay. The corn is ripe when the grain gets glazed in the ear, but must, when pulled, be kept from lying too much in a heap, to prevent its growing mouldy. It is usually gathered in Sep- tember ; the ears are broken off and thrown in small heaps in the field ; and as soon as convenient the husks are pulled ofT, which may be done at night; after which the clean ears are .spread aboixt six or eight 100 THE emigrant's inches deep on a dry loft or floor to dry and season. Others make a crib two or three feet wide, and as long as may be necessary, in which they put the cleaned ears of corn, and cover them in to protect them from the wet ; the air passing- through hardens and dries the grain. When hard it may be shelled, and if dry enough, ground up for use ; unless it he very dry will become mouldy when ground, if much be left together ; therefore the meal should be spread thin and loose in a box or bin made for that purpose, else it will be soon unfit for use. — Much then of this should not be ground at once, unless extremely dry or kiln-dried. Indian corn, besides being good for family use, is good for fattening hogs, cattle, &c. and may, when ground, be mixed with pumpkins or potatoes ; the soft unripe ears are also picked out at the time of harvest, and are excellent food for hogs, being thrown to them without any further preparation : — in fact, Indian corn, when it succeeds well, is one of thebest productions of a new farm. The pumpkins, when the corn is being gathered, may be carted home, as they do not keep well when exposed to frost and thaws, and are therefore given to the cattle and hogs in the fall or early in Avinter. Hogs fatten well on them when cut up, and boiled and mixed with a little potatoes and meal ; but they may be given raw to the larger cattle, which are very fond of them : — a great quantity will grow on an acre with the Indian corn. GUIDE TO CANADA. 10 1 Potatoes, the best root a farmer can raise, and which are easily raised on a new farm, next demands the attention of the settler. The quantity of seed re- quired is about ten bushels to the acre, the large round white potatoe being preferred. When the land, after the burning off of the timber, is well harrowed according to the plan already laid down, four or five cuts or seed ends are laid on the surface of the ground, about six inches asunder, in a square ; the earth is then hoed up on them, forming a hill nearly as large as the contents of a bushel measure emptied oat ; this plan is proceeded with, till the piece of ground intended for that purpose be covered with these hills, which one with another will occupy each about a yard square. Until fit to take up in Septem- ber, they will require to have no further labour ex- pended on them, unless weeding, which is seldom necessary. They are very easily taken out, and may be deposited in small pits in the field, covered lightly with earth, or put in the cellar of the house at once ; otherwise, if wanted to be kept till spring, they may be laid up in large pits, in a dry situation, covered as usual with about two or three feet of earth, and they will keep all the winter — but should not be opened till the April following. They yield from two hundred to four hundred bushels per acre, and the earlier planted after the middle of May, the drier and better. Tianiips may be sowed in June or July in new land, and require little attendance unless to thin or 102 THE emigrant's weed them : they require to be lightly harrowed, and sowed before rain, and they will then grow fast. Beets, carrots, parsnips, mangel wurzel, and Swedish turnip, require to be sowed earlier, and will do well : all these must be sowed broad cast, in new land. Melons, cucumbers, and other garden vegetables of this description, grow in the open air, and are easily cultivated. French or dwarf beans are planted in the same way as Indian com, but not more than one foot asunder, and are a very profitable crop for a fa- mily : the white or mottled ones that do not run to vines are the best to plant, and may be put down from the middle of May to the middle of June. In saving crops of grain, potatoes, and other ve- getables, the same custom as in Europe may be fol- lowed, unless in the additional care to prevent roots from the frost. The whole of the crops in Canada, when saved, are laid up in the barn, stable, root- house, or cellar. The Canadian farmers reap their corn greener than is generally done in Europe, and spread it thin in the field as cut : after it has been left lying for some days in fair wea- ther, they bind it in large bundles and carry it to their houses, which answers well in this country. They also bind up their hay in bundles of fifteen pounds each, and sell these by the hundred, equal to two -thirds of a ton. It will be wisdom in the settler to follow any good plan he may observe in useful operation among persons long settled in the country, and so far as he is able, to improve upon them ; but GUIDE TO CANADA. 10 r» not to make too much of a venture, until acquainted with the climate and the country. Such lands as are sowed with wheat, rye, oats, or barley, should be laid down the first year with Timo- thy or fox-tail grass seed or clover, and they will have a coat of grass for the next year's use : the usual complement of seed for an acre is about two gallons of grass with two pounds of red clover ; but If the land be low or wet, two pounds of red top grass seed will be sufficient for an acre without clover. — The grass-seed may be mixed with the grain about to be sowed, and all harrowed together, but others sow it when the grain is over the ground, before rain ; the former method however is preferred. Grass is gene- rally cut the latter end of July and the beginning of August, and in a dry season (as it usually is) is easily saved, put up in the barn, and secured. The settler should lay down in grass, each year, the part he sows with grain, until he has his farm large enough; and endeavour yearly to clear a sufficient extent for new crops ; then in a few years, what is first laid down in good heart will be fit to break up, and most of the stumps will plough out. In addition to what has been observed respecting seasons it may be added, that in Upper Canada, and in the south west parts of Lower Canada, the spring seasons are ten or fifteen days longer than in the lower parts of this province, and the progress of vegetation extremely rapid in all parts after the frost and snow depart. Also for three hundred miles or 104 THE emigrant's more around Quebec, Montreal, or Kingston, little difference is perceptible for or against the farmer in the settled parts. The nearer the sea the deeper the snow lies in \vanter, and the farther west the less snow or indeed frost ; but always enough to prevent vegetation, as when there is frost in Quebec it gene- rally extends to the utmost parts of Upper Canada, though it may not be so severe. During the winter in the upper province, and to the south, there are many thaws succeeded by frosts : in Lower Canada the season is more regular and steady, but uniformly healthy and generally agreeable ; and labouring men can with little inconvenience work in the open air all seasons in the year. Having thus noticed the progress of clearing and cultivating land on a new farm, it may be observed, that on old cleared farms the same mode of farming as in the United Kingdoms may be followed with suc- cess ; subject only to such alterations as may be necessary to suit the climate, secure the crops, and meet some other contingencies : and also that^Z/ or winter wheat and rye may be raised well, though not usually done. As the hints contained in these pages are not so much intended for the guidance of the farmer in farming, as of the emigrant in settling, further observations on this head are deemed unne- cessary. GUIDE TO CANADA. 105 ON MAKING MAPLE SUGAR. A branch of rural economy and comfort, peculiar to North America, is necessary to be noticed for the information of the emigrant, which is the manufac- ture of maple sugar. The settler should examine his farm, and where he can get from 200 to 500 or more maj.'le trees together, and most convenient, that should be reserved for a sugary. There being two kinds of maple, the luird and soft, the rock or hard maple is the one to be preferred: both will make sugar, but this will yield the sweetest sap and the brightest quality. If from among the trees intended for this use the brushwood be cut down and removed, the business can be carried on more conveniently. The process of sugar making is as follows : As the sun gets power in the latter part of March, and beginning of April, the sap begins to rise from the roots, and the trees are fit for tapping : the sap con- tinues, at intervals on fair days, to run for about a month, until the sun gets too warm, and the buds swell out on the tree. A large gouge or hollow chissel should be pro- vided, and a piece of dry pine or cedar got and cut into lengths of about nine inches each. These pieces should be split into bolts, about an inch thick, the breadth of the gouge ; and these bolts again split up, with (he gouge, about a quarter of an inch thick, by which they will become hollow spouts, like the f5 106 THE emigrant's instrument with which they are cut, for the sap to run in : they should then be pared with a sharp knife at the end, to the shape of the edge or point of the gouge, so that when it is driven half an inch or so into the tree, the spout also may be driven into the incision, and fit it tightly. Troughs to receive the sap as it falls from the spout, are made of pine, fir or ash, of a proper size, being about fifteen inches through : such trees are cut up into lengths of two feet, which pieces being split into two, each half piece is hollowed out with an axe so as to contain about two gallons. A man accustomed to the work will make forty or fifty troughs in a day, and they may be bought for about ten shillings per hundred. Each tree of ordinary size will require one, and very large trees two troughs. Those who can afford to get buckets instead of them will find it an advantage, as much sap is thereby saved : they cost about ten pence each. A tree will run about a bucket-full per day, on days succeeding frosty nights with a moderately warm sun to thaw the sap. After all these have been prepared, one or two of the troughs being placed under each tree, the person holding the spouts, gouge, and an axe, makes with the corner of the axe a small sloping notch about an inch and a half long, and deep enough to penetrate into the wood of the tree half an inch ; the under side of the incision being cut sloping down into the tree, so as that the sap may run to its lowest point : GUIDE TO CANADA. 107 if fit to tap, the sap is seen immediately to ooze from the cut. About an inch under that, the gouge is driven in for the spout as before directed, through which the sap is conveyed down till it drops into the bucket or trough at the foot of the tree, the cut being made almost two feet from the ground: one man can thus tap about two hundred trees or more in a day. Others for tapping are provided with an inch auger, with which, instead of making an inci- sion with the axe, they bore a hole an inch deep, and put in the spout an inch lower down as akeady directed : this, though more tedious, is the best plan for the tree. One tapping generally answers for a season, and the trees, if not greatly hacked, will do for a sugary many years. The sap is collected with a yoke and handled buckets by a man every evening, or as the troughs get nearly full ; whence it is conveyed to the boihng place which should be a dry spot, the most central and convenient in the sugary. At the boiling place there should be receivers, such as puncheons or barrels, to hold the sap until boiled down ; but when these cannot be got, large logs are hollowed out with an axe for that purpose. The process of boil- ing the sap into sugar is simple, and easily acquired : two stout crotches are fixed upright in the ground eight or ten feet asunder, and on them is placed a cross stick from which the pots or kettles are hung ; a crook to hang them by being made of a hooked piece of wood. The fire is made underneath 108 . THE emigrant's of split or small wood between two larger logs rolled on each side. The sap should be strained into the boilers, and when boihng down, one boiler should be kept tilled from the other, and that again supplied from the receivers till the liquid be boiled down to the consistency of sirrup. It is then taken up and strained into a deep narrow vessel, where it is left to settle for a day or two. When about being sugared off, it is carefully poured from the sediment into a small boiler, and again hung over a slow fire ; a little milk, or a couple of eggs beat up, being put in to clarify it : as it boils, it is skimmed, and after boiling about an hour to a proper consistence, which is ascertained by practice and observation, it is poured into vessels to cool, and stirred occasionally till cold. The Canadians boil it so much, that when cold it forms hard solid cakes ; to make use of which, it becomes necessary to scrape it with a knife. It is better, however, not to boil it so dry, but to pour it into a barrel after boiling sufficiently, and when cold, the sugar begins to crust on the sur- face in a day or so ; after which, by having a few gimlet holes bored in the bottom of the barrel, th^ molasses will run off, and leave after it a clean fair sugar, similar to, and better than, the best muscovado, and more delicate in flavor if care be taken in boiling, settling, straining and cleansing. To prevent the sap or sirrup from boiling over, about an inch square of fat pork should be thrown in once or twice a day, and it will be found to have the desired effect. The GUIDE TO CANADA. 109 scum, sediment, and last run of the sap from the trees which is not good for sugar, should be boiled together one half down, and being bar- relled, will, by allowing it to ferment, make good vinegar : it may be well to put in a little leaven or yest, though it will answer without it. Each tree will average a produce of about two pounds of sugar in the season, which extends to the end of April. Two men will be able to attend from two hundred to five hundred trees, and by attention will make good profit at a season, when they are not wanted for other purposes ; the sugar being worth from four pence to seven pence halfpenny per pound. By a little exa- mination and experience, better than by any further direction, the settler may in a few days obtain a per- fect knowledge of the process ; and if for a short time the labour be found severe, the reward will be sweet. GEXERAL OBSERVATIONS ON ASHES, SALTS, TIMBER, &C. Before bringing to a close the observations relative to the course an agriculturist is to pursue on newly- cleared land, a few other remarks are added, which may be conducive to his advantage on settling in the woods. The first is respecting the ashes that may be saved of the heavy hardwood timber burned on the land: the sorts producing the best for pot or 110 THE emigrant's pearl ashes are, elm, maple, basswood, large birch, and brown ash ; the same use can be made of all others that can be got, but these mentioned produce most and best. In order to keep it uninjured, as before observed, from wet or damp, when the tim- ber is burned, the ashes should be collected and placed in a bin or safe ; this may be simply made of small logs, floored with logs or boards, and covered over head from the rain. They should not be put in or near a house, lest if put in hot they might burn the building ; they have been known also to take fire if vegetable oil be poured on cold ashes. In such a safe or bin, as has been described, they may be preserved until sold or otherwise disposed of; therefore care should be taken to preserve all that can be collected, as they are worth from six pence to one shilling per bushel, according to the price of pot and pearl ashes ; and if a fair price can be obtained for them in this state, it is better for the settler to sell them than boil them himself, as he is not accus- tomed to the process. The older settlers manufacture their ashes, for sale to the country merchants, into what is called the scdts of lye, when there are no purchasers convenient to buy them before taken through any such process. To effect this, they provide themselves with two or more deep tubs called leeches, which hold six or eight bushels of ashes, with a spigot in the bottom ; they are placed on a stand a foot or two from the ground, with troughs underneath them to receive the lye GUIDE TO CANADA. Ill when it runs off. A few brick, stone, or a handful of brushwood, are put inside over the spigot, on which is placed a little straw to prevent the ashes running through or rendering muddy the lye : over this the dry ashes are poured, nearly filling the leech, and gently pressed down ; on which is poured boiling water for the Jirst run, that is, until with it the ashes be perfectly soaked through : cold water may be then used until the strength is all taken from the ashes, which is known when the lye running off is weak like water. Two or more kettles, as in sugar-mak- ing, are hung over a fire to boil down the liquid that has run from the ashes, one boiler being kept filled from the other, and that again filled from the lye running off the ashes, until all gets boiled down to the consistence of tar, which, when cold, is as hard or harder than pitch. This substance is called salts of lye, and is the pot or pearl ashes in a crude state ; it is readily purchased by all Canadian country mer- chants, who have pot or pearl ash works, in which this is again manufactured by another process not necessary here to be described. Salts of lye can be sold in the country, if not for more, at least for one-half the price that pot or pearl ashes will fetch in the ports or cities. The ashes saved from an acre of good hardwood land will produce three or four, and in some cases five cwt. of salts, which sells this year (1831) at seventeen shilhngs and six pence per CM-t. A handy man will boil 1 cwt. in a day, and almost sixteen bushels of good ashes will produce so 112 THE emigrant's much. This resource is a great advantage to tlie new settler, as it affords him some cash for clearing off his land, by producing an article for sale, which is always in demand, from what would be otherwise thrown away as being of no use to newly-cleared land. The boiling place should be made near soft water if it can be conveniently got. On land where much pine, spruce, or cedar is found, and not far from streams of water on which, when cut, it can be floated, the settler can sell to lumber merchants such timber, being worth when standing from one shilling to two and six pence per tree, according to size, distance from market, &c. ; but in case he can sell them delivered on the bank of the stream, it may be his advantage to do so, and thus earn the more from his own labour and re- sources. I would by no means advise him to attempt taking the timber to market himself, but leave that to those who imderstand it and make that business their avocation ; his object should be to clear his land, make a farm, keep it in good order when cleared, raise necessary provisions for himself, and as much as he can for sale, a succession of settlers always causing a demand for the necessaries of life. When once he is independent, comfort is the result, if not his own fault ; nor need he long be deprived of the luxuries attending independence and freedom. As settlers extend their farms, the demand on the spot for the surplus of their produce naturally de- creases in proportion as provisions become more plen- GUIDE TO CANADA. 113 tiful : the farmer then by degrees may raise and fat- ten hogs, beef, sheep, and horses ; which will carry themselves to market, though at a great distance, and in the different large towns and cities, or near the fisheries or ports, meet a ready sale. Thus, in the beginning of his settlement the emigrant can save his ashes and valuable timber for sale ; as these decrease in the course of cultivation, the produce of the farm will more than compensate for the want : and in this manner, much may be gained from the wilderness while he is extending his farm for the good of the country, himself, and his family ; with a sure pros- pect of ultimate success. CONCLUSION. To attain this desired result with satisfaction, in- dustry, sobriety, and perseverance, only are neces- sary. The country affords the materials, which only require to be acted upon ; protected as it is by a powerful state, in the enjoyment of civil and reli- gious liberty ; and where the law affects no man for his opinions and actions, unless so far as his conduct may be personally injurious to public or private inte- rests. As this is the case in the Canadas, it would conduce much to preserve the blessing of public tranquillity, if every emigrant and settler coming to the country would lay aside all political animosities and other intolerant feelings, and to live and let Uve 114 THE emigrant's in mutual forbearance and christian charity ; having a portion of that kindly feeling for our fellow men, that the Most High has for all. With such senti- ments and a watchful care to preserve the public rights, supporting the government in all its constitu- tional privileges, and discountenancing every effort made to the contrary, the settler may live and enjoy himself in comfort and happiness, the birth right of every peaceable and upright British subject. In the foregoing pages much pains have been taken that nothing be withheld in point of information, whether topographical, commercial, or agricultural, on which the emigrant may depend to guard him against uncertainty, imposition, wild or hazardous speculations ; and to which, as to a directory claim- ing no other merit than accuracy, faithfulness, and impartiality, he may with safety and without fear of disappointment, be referred for instruction in every step, which he shall find it necessary to take, from the time of his first landing on the shores of British America until being himself a settled and expe- rienced agriculturist he shall find it no longer neces- sary to seek instruction from the experience of any other individual. It has been the author's aim, while he gave, without any exaggeration, a fair view of the inducements which this country presents to the ho- nest, the enterprising, and the industrious man, at the same time to put him in possession of the difiiicul- ties he must at first have to struggle with, and the inconveniences to submit to, in order that he should GUIDE TO CANADA. 115 not flatter himself with such hopes as may afterwards cause him to exclaim, like the Irishman in the play, in the agonizing effusion of a disappointed spirit, that, " though he had left his native land in expecta- tion of shoveling up the dollars out of the street, he had not yet fingered the ghost of one" It is then only to such persons as can be content to endure a little labour before they can regale themselves with its pleasant fruits, that the instruction contained in the foregoing remarks can be of any value. Each indi- vidual is better acquainted, than another can delineate to him, with his own condition and circumstances ; and can therefore, by comparing them with what has been here submitted to him, calculate how far the favourable prospects, connected with emigration, can compensate for the sorrow of a separation from many intimate fiiends, and of a residence far removed from the scene of his early recollections. Certainly if a man enjoy the blessings of a permanent competency for himself and his family, combined with a freedom from any distressing apprehensions as to what may probably befal them at some future period, this ought to be a consideration sufficient to induce him not to abandon his native home, as such a step, in order to better a condition already well enough, may be an act of wantonness well worthy of being punished with woful disappointment : but how many are there who, though in the enjoyment of a competency for the present, and able to supply their families with all necessary comforts while kept together, and under 116 THE emigrant's their own protection, yet have no fair prospect of being able to provide for them individually ; and must consequently find their tranquillity and happi- ness often interrupted by forebodings so excruciating to the tender feelings of a loving parent; that they all may in a few days, if deprived of his care, be sent forth to be tossed on the troubled waves of poverty and affliction. Such apprehensions and uneasiness can indeed be alleviated by a belief in the superintendence of His providence who ordereth all things according to the council of His own will, and by whom the very hairs of our heads are all num- bered, but when He gives us an easy access to the means of relief we are bound to accept them with a grateful hand, and then leave the things of futurity to be disposed of according to the wisdom and bene- ficence so cheeringly exhibited in all his dispensations. Again, how many are there who, after having not only expended their money, and often defrauded the jaded body of a portion of its necessary repose, while trying to realize an income on some unpro- ductive piece of land, but have also plentifully watered the same with many a weighty drop of sweat, must nevertheless, if they survive the expi- ration of the term, be content to get a preference, from some relentless landlord at the higliest penny that can be extracted firom it when worked up to the me- ridian of its fertility ; and it is unnecessary to remind the improving and indefatigable tenant on an Irish farm how often he is denied even that preference GUIDE TO CANADA. 117 though the lowest favor that can be sought, but is left, to receive from experience a lesson on the in- stability of human friendship, and, while soliloquiz- ing on the bitterness of his disappointment, to appro- priate to himself the reflection of the bard, " How bright soe'er tlie prospect seems. All thoughts of friendship are but dreams." It is to those who, from their own experience, can testify the reality of the pictures now portrayed, that the invitation is especially given to come to Canada : to a country in which they certainly cannot expect to eat the bread of idleness, but where they may expect what is more worthy to be denominated hap- piness — the comfortable fruits of industry, and a total emancipation from those painful apprehensions and reflections with which, while at present strug- gling against the current of affliction, they are ener- vated for the task, and their minds kept in a perpe- tual ferment. It may also in conclusion be observed, for the information of as many as may feel disposed to aspire to respectability, that in this country, while such distinctions of rank are regarded as are deemed necessary for the maintenance of the order and hap- piness of society, the source however of true respec- tability is looked for in the aspirant himself, and not attempted to be traced through the cumbersome rami- fications to the sapless stock of the Genealogical Tree. APPENDIX. It has been justly observed that what are generall}' called men of fortune ought not to go to Canada, except they have determined to fix their residence either at Quebec or Montreal. In these cities not only all the necessaries, but most of the luxuries of life can be procured with ease and at moderate prices ; they can enjoy the elegancies of life, refined and literary society, &c., but of course in a more limited degree than in European cities. Beyond these places such persons must not attempt to stir, unless they can determine to become men of the world, and cheerfully submit to take things as they find them. And we have no doubt that there are many high and noble- minded men (and those rich men too,) who could live in many parts of Canada, and enjoy more real happiness in witnessing and promoting the development of a new world than in all the parade and ceremony connected with what is called fashionable life. Canada is, truly speaking, the poor maris country ; in it he can live comfortably, and pro- cure good wages, and the man of small fortune can make money, acquire property, and provide for his family with comparative ease. Emigrants should not on any account burthen themselves with heavy or troublesome articles when proceeding to Canada ; however they will do well not to omit a tolerable supply of strong warm clothing, bedding, shirts, and house linen, cooking utensils, a clock or time piece, hosiery, APPENDIX. 119 boots and shoes fit for winter weather, a few good books ; also such articles of ironmongery as may be necessary, such as the iron parts of farming and gardening imple- ments, a few of the ordinary tools used by carpenters, &c., to these may be added a rifle or fowling piece, which the emigrant will find both useful and amusing in winter, and fishing tackle for summer sport, if his fancy leads him to such amusement ; a few simple medicines, such as epsom salts, calcined magnesia, castor oil, cream of tartar, ipeca- cuanha (commonly called hippo), and tartarised antimony (called tartar emetic), will be found extremely useful when the emigrant has got settled. In tlie selection of a vessel a fast sailer should have the preference, particularly in the spring ; a fortnight or three weeks earlier in arrival at Quebec will be of material im- portance to the emigrant, since he may, by such timely exertion, put in the ground a small crop, and thus in part provide subsistence for the first year, which he should otherwise be obliged to purchase. Small quantities of seeds, such as lucern, trefoil, turnip, and the ordinary gar- den seeds, and a few select samples of potato oats, China or skinless oats, and the large black oat of the south of Ireland for seed will be a valuable appendage. We would here observe that working artizans, particu- larly blacksmiths, carpenters, bricklayers, plaisterers, masons, coopers, millwrights, and wheelwrights cannot fail, if they are industrious, succeeding in any part of the Canadas, and by one season's work saving sufficient to pur- chase lands in a settled township. On the 9th of February, 1832, his Majesty's Commis- sioners for Emigration published a small paper respecting the British Colonies in North America, the object of which 120 APPENDIX. was to afford information to persons desiring to emigrate, or to assist others emigrating to British America, and in the first place to define the nature of the assistance to be expected from Government. No pecuniary aid will be allowed to emigrants, or after their arrival will they receive grants of lands, gifts of tools, or a supply of provisions. Land is now disposed of only by sale at moderate rates, but generally it will not be sold for less than from 4s. to 5s. per acre; and in situations where roads have been made, or where the ground has been partially cleared, the common prices lately have been 7s. 6d., 10s., and 15s. per acre. Agents will be maintained at the principal colonial ports, whose duty it will be, without fee or reward, from private individuals to protect emigrants against imposition, ac- quaint them with the demand for labour in different dis- tricts, point out the most advantageous routes, and furnish them with all useful advice upon the objects they have had in view in emigrating. And when a private engagement cannot be immediately obtained, employment will be afforded on some of the public works in progress in the colonies. Persons newly arrived are strongly urged to consult the Government Agent for Emigrants. The fol- lowing Agents for Emigration have been appointed : — Quebec, A. C. Buchanan, Esq. ; St. John's, A. Wedder- burn, Esq. ; St. Andrews, C. N, Smith, Esq. ; Miramichi, J. Canard, Esq. ; York, (name not yet reported). No effort will be spared to exempt emigrants from any neces- sity for delay at the place of disembarkation, and from uncertainty as to the opportunities of at once turning their labour to account. The ordinary charges for passage to Quebec is then given, but on this subject the emigrant will be enabled to judge for himself, as the price varies at APPENDIX. 121 the different ports ; but emigrants should not lay in an insufficient stock of provisions ; fifty days is the shortest period for which it is safe to provide. The best months for leaving England (and we may add Ireland) are certainly March and April, The paper then proceeds to caution emigrants against frauds and tricks practised by Ship Agents, who receive passage money, and then detain the emigrant at exjiense before the departure of the vessel. However this can be guarded against by dealing with respectable Agents, or by having the day upon which the vessel is to sail fixed at the time of agree- ing for the passage, and in case any delay should arise, that then the emigrant should be received on board and victualled by the owners. Conveyance of passengers is regulated by the Act of 9 Geo. IV. c. 21. Ships for con- veyance of passengers to these colonies must be five feet and a half between decks, and they must not carry more than three passengers for every four tons of the registered burthen ; there must be on board at least 50 gallons of pure water, and oOlbs. of bread, biscuit, oatmeal, or bread- stuff, for each passenger ; when the vessel carries the full number of passengers allowed by law, no part of the cargo or stores may be carried between decks. Masters of ves- sels who land passengers, unless with their own consent, at a place different from that originally agreed upon, are sub- ject to a penalty of ^£"20, recoverable by summary process before two Justices of the Peace in any of the North American Colonies. The enforcement of this law rests with the Officers of Customs, and persons having com- plaints to make of its infraction should apply at the nearest Custom-house. Beside the expenses of sea voyage to Canada, persons G 122 APPENDIX. should be provided with the means of proceeding on the journey which they may have to make after their arrival at Quebec, the cost of which must depend on the distance or situation of the place where they wish to settle. The following report of prices of conveyance during last season from Quebec to York, the capital of Upper Canada, may be useful. From Quebec to Montreal (180 miles) by steam-boat, the charge was 6s. 6d. ; Montreal to Prescott (120 miles) by boats or barges, 7s. ; from Prescott to York (250 miles) by steam-boat, 7s. The journey occupies from ten to twelve days : adding therefore 1 Is. for provisions, the total cost from Quebec to York (a distance of 550 miles) may be stated, according to the charges of last j'ear, at £1 Us. 6d. Persons who have sufficient money and prefer travelling by land, that part of the route where the St. Lawrence is not navigable for steam-boats, can accom- plish the journey in six days for about ^66. It must be observed that the prices of conveyance are not always stationary, but the Government Agents will at all times be enabled to supply the emigrant with more exact par- ticulars. Mr. Pickering, in his Publication on Emigration, recom- mends those who intend to marry to bring out wives •with them if they can get good ones. Women are wanted, there being more males than females, and with other reasons for this advice, he states that a man will find a woman of his own country more congenial to his habits and taste as a vdfe than any other. He also states, that Canada is not a bad country for single females to come to, as house ser- vants, as they can get from 20s. to 30s. a month, if indus- trious, &c. Canada presents a wide field to men of capital, and APPENDIX. 123 money can be employed to advantage by investments in almost every descrri)tion of property, if done with judg- ment, in purchasing land particularly near towns and vil- lages that must increase, in building houses, mills, &c., in establishing breweries, distilleries, furnaces, forges, and manufactories, &c. Before proceeding to describe in detail the several dis- tricts of Upper Canada, we shall notice more particularly the counties of Two Mountains and Ottawa, situate on the north side of the St. Lawrence. The county of Two Mountains contains six townships, viz. Arundell, Chatham, Grenville, Harrington, Howard, and Wentworth, The land in the township of Chatham is rather uneven in its surface, part being mountainous, but contains excellent pasturage, and the land is calculated to produce hemp, and flax, and the best sorts of grain ; some excellent tim- ber is to be found, and which can be readily floated down the North River, passing through this township to the Ottawa. It is also watered by West River (which is na- vigable for some distance) several small lakes and numerous streams. The public road from Montreal to the upper townships passes along the front near the Ottawa, and two otlier roads lead towards the rere. This township is inha- bited by English, Scotch, and Irish, Americans, and a few Canadians ; the population may now be estimated at about 1,500; it contains one village called Davisville, having saw-mills, country stores, taverns, school, &c. Ad- joining this to^^'nship, and in the rere of the Seigniorj' of Argentuil, is a small tract called Chatham Gore, inter- spersed with several beautiful lakes, which make the coun- try picturesque and romantic ; they abound with fish, particularly lake Bouchette, whose waters are remarkably 124 APPENDIX. clear, and afford plenty of fine salmon tront. The land is fit for agriculture. The population is now about 500, nearly all Irish, and of the Church of England. There is one church, a well-attended school, pot and pearl ash M'orks, tanneries, &c. Grenville on the Ottawa, with its augmentation to the west of the former township, is bounded in the rere by the projected township of Harrington, and to the west by La Petite Nation. It is remarkable for the canal formed at considerable expense along the river to avoid the dangerous rapids on the Long Sault, the Carillon rapids, and another which in front of this township interrupt the navigation of this river. The soil varies, part being very poor and part extremely rich and fertile. An extensive valley runs through the east part of the augmentation, along the Beaver Meadow Creek, and Rouge River, from which several other valleys diverge, and present excellent situations for settlers. This township is also watered by the Kingham and Calumet rivers, and several small lakes abounding with fish. There are tolerable good roads in various directions. There is a military station on the canal, and a village ; the population now amounts to upwards of 2000, and they have the usual schools, mills, pot ash works, a pottery, &c. Wentworth is partly in the rere of the townships of Chatham and Grenville, and very mountainous. It is not well suited for arable purposes, but it produces excellent timber for ship building, which is conveyed by North River to the Ottawa. Harrington, Howard, and Arundell are only projected and not yet surveyed. The county of Ottawa is the most distant in the lower province, and is situate on the river of that name, m hich divides it from Upper Canada, a communication has been APPENDIX. 125 formed between them, by a line of bridges, thrown across the rapids between Hull and By Town, several townships have been projected, and some of them surveyed. Buck- ingham atjjoining the seigniory of La Petite Nation, is watered by the river Au Lievre and its head streams ; the first range next the Ottawa in this and the other to\vn- ships on its banks, is overflowed in the spring and fall, by that great stream, whose waters rise at those seasons, and like the Nile enriches the soil, and when the waters recede produce the most luxuriant pasturage. Few Ijuildings can be erected on its banks. A part of this township has been granted by letters patent to the late Cajitain Robinson and with the Crown reserves being unsettled, retard its general improvement ; however, a Mr. Beglow, a large proprietor, has cleared upwards of 400 acres, and erected a saw-mill, &c. There are several eligible situations for towns in this township, some saw, and corn-mills erected, a pottery, potash works, taverns, &c. Templeton, next the above, is bounded in the rere by the township of Portland, near the Ottawa, the land is low, but very fertile ; at some distance from the river, the land rises into gentle swells, and is of exceeding good quality. The principal settlements are toward the south-west, along the road opened by the commissioners, in front of the township. The population is increasing. There are some pot and pearl ash works, &c. and the entire is well watered by several streams, and narrow ponds or lakes. Portland, adjoining the former, is watered by the river Blanche. As yet few settlements have been made in it. Hull, on tlue Ottawa, and above Templeton, as has been already noticed, owes its present prosperity to Mr. Wright, who in 1806, obtained a grant of 12,000 acres, of 126 APPENDIX. which nearly 6000 are now improved; he and his family, as a reward for his great industry and management, have been granted 5000 acres in the township of Templeton, and nearly as much in Lochabar. This to^\Tiship is in a state of high cultivation, and the whole is well watered by the river Gatineau, several lakes, some of which are extremely beautiful, and various small streams. Several roads have been opened by Mr. Wright, towards the interior, from the town of Hull, which is about 124 miles from Montreal ; there is also the village of Wright on the south-east angle of this township, which contains a handsome church, with a steeple 120 feet high, a comfortable hotel, and several other edifices, such as schools, tanneries, &c. The popu- lation of this township is rapidly increasing. Eardly is the next township on this river, or rather what is there called lake Chaudiere, it is indented by two large bays of the lake into which small rivers flow, is thinly set- tled, and as yet the roads have not been completed. The land is good, and it is probable, will very shortly become well settled. Onslow and Bristol are thinly settled, and very little is known respecting them. The soil or surface do not ap- pear to present many inducements to settlers. Clarendon is the last township up the Ottawa that is partly settled. Little is known respecting it, except that it is well watered, and has got corn and saw-mills, &c. It may not be improper here to notice the interesting river Gatineau, which flows from some lakes far in the in- terior, traverses Hull, and falls into the Ottawa, in the western front of the township of Templeton. This wide, and in the upper parts rapid river, is navigable for steam- boats, nearly 3 miles from its mouth, then becomes rapid APPENDIX. 127 for about 15 miles, turning several mills, and thence is na- vigable for canoes, &c. it is said for 300 miles, passing through an interesting vale full of natural riches, and abounding in views of the wildest and most romantic scenerj', and it is probable that at no very distant day, this district will be explored, and settlements established on the banks of this river beyond the rapids or falls, some of which are stated to be 100 feet in height. The upper northern banks of the Ottawa, belonging to this province not yet surveyed, are reported to contain some very superior land, well wooded, the importance of which may be inferred from the fact, that the greater pro- portion of those enormous rafts of fine timber, which make so considerable a branch of Canadian commerce with the mother country, are brought from thence, being floated do\^Ti the river. UPPER CANADA. It has been mentioned in the former part of this work that tliis province, being a younger colony, is less settled than Lower Canada, and consequently it is more difficult to procure accurate information respecting its present state, but the rapid increase of population, and intercourse with the interior occasioned thereby, will speedily remove those impediments, and in a few years, the entire of this highly interesting portion of the British colonies, will be fully explored, and, we hesitate not to say, that it will not disappoint the most sanguine expectations entertained of it. However, we are not left altogether uninformed on the subject, and, in addition to what has been previously stated, we have selected the following remarks from the 128 .APPENDIX. recent work on the Canadas, published by Mr. Picken, which we have read with much pleasure and satisfaction, and can with confidence recommend it to such as may re- quire a detailed and extended publication on the Canadas. Upper Canada possesses a rich soil and fine climate, and for the last three years, emigrants of the poorer classes have directed their attention to it, this has been caused in a great measure, by the higher rate of wages to be had there, and the greater certainty of obtaining employ- ment. On examining a map of the Canadas, the great extent of water frontier enjoyed by the upper province cannot be overlooked, exclusive of the numerous rivers and lakes to be found in the interior, the country being in general level possessing very little of what is usually called mountain, (none of the elevated parts deserving that name). These natural canals and lakes, not improperly called inland seas, afford considerable facilities to the rapid improvement of the country. The general monotony of the face of the country is di- versified by a few ridges of elevated or table land, the first of which commences about the boundary between this and the lower province, and running westerly between the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, in the line of Osnabruck, Williams- burg, and Matilda, in which last mentioned township the river Petite Nation takes its source, only 5 miles from the St. Lawrence, and thence after crossing the townships of Bustard and Crosby, it is lost at no great distance inland. Several other low ridges traverse the country, generally in a westerly direction, as if they were a continuation of the above, and out of which spring numerous streams. On the northern borders of the Balsam lake, the chief of these APPENDIX. 129 ridges assumes a higher elevation than usual, from whence they stretch towards Lake Siracoe. There is another ridge of elevated land, which com- mences at the bay of Quinte, near lake Ontario, and ex- tending westerly along its shores, and approaching it in the to\\'nship of Hamilton, at a distance of not more than nine miles, thence taking a northerly course, passes the rere of York, at a distance of 24 miles, from whence bending to the south-east round the head of the lake, it joins the Burlington and Queenstown heights, and then running easterly along the south shore of the lake, it en- ters the United States at the falls of Niagara. It has been remarked that the great majority of the rivers which spring from the south side of these ridges, and flow into the St. Lawrence or Lake Ontario, are short and small, whilst those that flow towards the north, until they join the Ottawa, are of much greater extent, but the descent of the rivers on both sides of the ridges or range of hills being about four feet to a mile, some difliculty arose, considering the distance on the south side being much shorter than on the north, but the engineer employ- ed on the Rideau Canal, ascertained and established, that the level of Lake Ontario is nearly 130 feet hip-her than that of the Ottawa, and therefore the gradual descent of the rivers on both sides of the ridges or table land, calcu- lating their respective lengths, is easily accounted for. Kingston is the largest and most populous town in Upper Canada, and is called the key to the province. It is situated at the head of the St. Lawrence on Lake Ontario, and contains a population of 6000 souls. It con- tains noble dock-yards, and conveniences for ship-building, and is a military post of importance, as well as a naval 5 G 130 APPENDIX. dep6t ; a vessel of 120 guns can, according to Howison, lie close to the Quay; the wharfs on the river, and spacious well fitted warehouses behind them, as well as in the town, indicate the mercantile importance it has now attained. The streets are regularly formed at right angles, which is the favourite plan in the new settlements. The houses are mostly built of limestone, which is to be had in abun- dance in the immediate vicinity of that town. Kingston must derive immense importance from its central situation, being the great thoroughfare between the upper and lower provinces, as well as to and from the States on the oppo- site side of the river. Between the lower province and this towa, as has been partly observed in the account of roads and distances, are the several towns of Cornwall, JohnstoM'n, Prescott, Elizabethtown, and Brockville, besides a continuance of small villages on the same line along the St. Lawrence. Cornwall and Johnstown stand close to the river, and con- tain about 100 houses, built of wood, with a church, court- house, schools, &c. Prescott, now called Fort Welling- ton, is the chief stage between Kingston and Montreal, from which latter, as has been mentioned, it is distant 135 miles, and between which coaches run every day except Sunday ; from its position at the head of the Montreal boat navigation, and at the foot of the sloop and steam navigation from the lakes, it must rapidly increase in ex- tent and importance. The town of Perth, situate in the district of Bathurst and township of Drummond, on a small branch of the Rideau called the Tay River, being nearly central between the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, was founded in 1815, by British emigrants, chiefly from Scotland, many of whom APPENDIX. 131 are now in comfortable circumstances. The streets are sixty-six feet wide, and on a hill near the centre of the town a jail and two churches have been erected. The popula- tion is now considerable, and many of the houses are fur- nished with considerable taste and judgment. The relative situation of this place near the Rideau canal, in the midst of a fertile country, gives good promise of its future pros- perity and importance. Bytown, situated on the southern bank of the Ottawa below the Chaudiere falls, and opposite Hull, in Lower Canada, stands upon a bold eminence surrounding a bay of that river, and on both banks of the Rideau canal which here meets it. The streets are wide, and laid out at right angles ; the number of buildings are rapidlj' increasing ; the greater number are of wood, and executed with much taste. The excellent residence of Colonel By, a large and commodious hospital, with three barracks, all of stone, are delightfulh^ situated on the elevated banks of the bay, commanding a prospect over the river, its falls and rapids, that can be scarcely equalled in the Canadas. EASTERN SECTION. The first or eastern section of this province, in which the before-mentioned towns are situate, consists of that tract of land lying between the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, bounded on the east by the county of Vaudreuil, in the lower province, and on the west by the Newcastle district. It is divided into five districts, viz. the Eastern, the Otta- wa, the Johnstown, the Bathurst, and the Midland." The entire of this section is of moderate elevation, with gradual depressions towards the different rivers with which it is bounded and intersected ; the soil in general is rich 132 APPENDIX. and fertile, with a mixture of soft and marshy spots. The timber in the forests is large and lofty, and of the different descriptions herein before mentioned. On the banks of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa, the land is thickly settled, particularly from Point au Baudet to the head of the bay of Quinte, The Eastern District, commencing at the boundary line of the province on the east, has the St. Lawrence on the south, the district of Johnstown on the west, and the Ottawa district on the north. It is divided into twelve townships, in two ranges, viz. Lancaster, Charlotteburgh, Cornwall, Osnabruck, Williamsburgh, and Matilda, on the banks of the St. Lawrence ; and Lochiel, Kenyon, Rox- burgh, Finch, Winchester, and Mountain, in the rere of the former. The township of Lancaster is well settled, and the land generally good. The rivers Bodatte and Delisle, with several other smaller streams run through it. The principal road from the lower and through the upper province called Dundas-street, passes through this town- ship, Lochiel is also well settled, and the land of like quality as the former township ; the River La Grass, and several small streams which flow into it, waters this town- ship, and the river Delisle crosses the south-west corner ; the road from Cornwall to the Ottawa, and several others, pass through this township ; grist and saw mills have been erected on the rivers. Roxburgh is partially settled, some of it having been granted to New England Loyalists, and a considerable portion being Clergy reserves; it is rather swampy, the north branch of the river Aux Raisins, and a branch of the river Petite Nation called the Pean, rises in this township. The road from Corn- wall to the settlement on the Petite Nation passes by the APPENDIX. 133 east side of the hihth concession. Finch is thinly seltled, and contains some excellent land ; a considerable portion of it was granted to the families of New England Loyal- ists, which has fallen into the hands of speculators, and has operated against the settlement of this tov>'nship. The river Petite Nation runs through it crossways and the Pean river lengthways. Little has been done to roads, which is an inconvenience to settlers. Mr. Crysler has become possessed of large quantities of land, and has erected saw and grist mills. Winchester is generally good land, but parts swampy, population thin, and in great want of roads. The Petite Nation runs through it, and in winter answers the purpose of a road, as well as a naviga- tion in summer. Mountain has a fine thriving settlement along the Petite Nation, with some good roads ; the land is very good, and some large tracts have been granted to individuals. Several mills have been erected in this town- ship, and when the contemplated improvement in the na- vigation of the Petite Nation by the communication with St. Lawrence shall be comi)leted, the value of land must be greatly increased. Williamsburgh is well settled by Loysdists who served during the first American war with the States ; the land in this township is generally good ; mills have been erected on streams which flow into the Petite Nation. The Ottawa District is exactly in the rere of the former, bounded on the north by the Ottawa, on the west by Johnstown and Bathurst districts, and on the east by the boundary of the lower province : it is divided into eleven townships, viz. Hawkesbury East, Hawkesbury West, Alfred, Plantagenet, Clarence, Cumberland, Glou- cester, (all on the Ottawa,) Caledonia, Cambridge, Russel, 134 APPENDIX. and Osgoode, in the interior and adjoining the eastern district. The land is generally good in East and West Hatukesbury. The Grenville canal passes on the banks of the Ottawa, opposite Hawkesbury, by which the rapids on that river called the Long Sault rapids, are surmounted. The western division at present appears to possess superior advantages, having good roads in various directions, and several mills, distilleries, stores, shops, &c. ; the lumber men have cut down a great deal of the valuable timber. The river Lagrass runs through the western division, and some other small streams which fall into the Ottawa. The local situation of these townships is very favourable, the population rapidly increasing, and appear endeavouring to excel in industry. Caledonia is only partially settled, the land being very swampy ; however there are some good lots to be had, and the Canadians are partial to some des- criptions of swamps, which they drain, and afterwards cul- tivate ; roads have been completed •which vdll considerably advance the interests of the present settlers as they do not enjoy the advantage of any large river. In the township of Alfred the lands are swampy, but suited to the Canadian mode of clearing; the Chester road crosses this town- ship ; there are some streams, the principal of which are Horn Creek, which flows into the Petite Nation, and Dezemacane, which enters the Ottawa to the north east. Plantagenet is well settled, and the land of various qua- lities, part being light and sandy, part very good, and some swampy. There are several roads in the township ; its situation is very favourable and well watered by the Petite Nation, Bear Brook, Horn Creek, and Scotch river. The lumber men have taken a considerable portion of the most valuable timber. The township of Clarence is favourably APPENDIX. 135 situated, and possesses some very good land, and the po- pulation is now increasing. Until lately there were no roads in tliis township ; but this disadvantage was in some measure supplied by the passing of the steam boats on the Ottawa. Bear Brook runs across it towards the rere, and on which there are a number of mill-sites. Cumberland is verj- like Clarence in extent, situation, and soil, and the Bear Brook crosses it also. This township must rapidly improve, possessing as it does, (with Clarence) the advan- tage of the Ottawa navigation in front, and the Bear Brook in the rere, upon which there are several favourable situa- tions for mills, factories, &c., and by which at high water in spring, timber can be rafted down to the Petite Nation. The township of Gloucester is bounded on one side by the Ottawa, and on another by the Rideau river. Great part of the land is good, with some swamps, suited to the taste of the Canadians. This to^-nship is well settled near the Ottawa and Rideau ; Green's Creek, Bear's Brook, Belling's Creek, and other small streams water it in various directions, and on wliich mills have been erected, roads are increasing, and from its vicinity to Bytown and the Rideau canal, this must be a very promising township. In Cambridge the soil is light and sandy, some good land towards the south-east and south-west, and a few large swamps ; the Petite Nation and a branch of it called the Eastern River, cross this township. The township of Russell is well watered by the Eastern River and its several liranches. The land is not very good, a great part is swampy, with white sandy bottom; however some favour- able settlements have been formed in it. Osgoode, front- ing the Rideau, contains some excellent land, and is well watered by the Castere river and several small streams 136 APPENDIX. vhich fall into it. Several roads have been projected in this township which when completed will greatly facilitate its settlement, and increase the value of land. In winter, when the rivers are frozen they are used as roads by the settlers, and by which they procure many necessary sup- plies. Johnstown District next above the Eastern, on the St. Lawrence, is now divided into eighteen townships, viz. Edwardsburgh, Augusta, Elizabeth, Yonge, Lansdown, and Leeds, on the St. Lawrence ; South Gower, Oxford, Wolford, Kitley, partly bounded on the north by the Ri- deau canal and river. Bastard through which the canal jjasses obliquely, and South Crosby, all lying in the rare of the six first mentioned townships ; North Gower, Marlborough, Montague, Elrasley, Burgess, and North Crosby, bounded on the north by the Bathurst district, and having on the south the Rideau canal. The soil in these townships is generally good, and they are most eli- gibly situated, being intersected by the Rideau canal, now completed, and having in front the St. Lawrence, besides being well watered by several rivers and lakes. It is true that several swamps are to be met with, but these have been, in many places, highly improved by the Canadian farmers, and add much to the fertility of the district Lake Gananoqui crosses the township of Lansdowne and enters Yonge and Leeds. There are a few small lakes in North and South Crosby, also in Bastai'd, from whence, and from the Rideau lake, in Burgess and Elms- ley, (and into which the canal opens) flow the principal head waters of the Rideau river, which passes by several of the other townships, on its course to the Ottawa, the population of these townships is now rapidly increasing, APPENDIX. 137 and it would be difficult to procure an exact enumeration of the inhabitants. This district contains several towns, viz. Brockville and Elizabeth Tov^ti, in the township so named ; Prescott or Fort Wellin^on, the principal port between Kingston and Montreal in Augusta ; and Johns- town in Edwardsburgh ; although the Rideau canal was originally intended as a communication in time of war with the upper province, its advantages as a peace one are of the highest importance, and has opened a line of settle- ment with several townships wliich now present a flourish- ing appearance, but would otherwise remain unoccupied for many years. Bathurst District, on the Ottawa, is in the rere of Johnstown, and bounded on the west by the Midland district, the Ottawa is here called Lake Chaudiere, and a little higher up Lake Chat from the expansion of the river. This district is divided into twenty townships, viz. Nepean, on the Ottawa Goulburn, Beckwith, Drummond, Bathufst, South Sherbrooke, North Sherbrooke, Dalhousie, Lanark, Ramsey, and Huntley, March and Torbottom, on Lake Chaudiere, Fitzroy on Lake Chat, Pakenham, Dar- ling, and Lovant ; Mac Nab, and Horton, also on Lake Chat, and also a triangular township, through which flows the river Madawasca. The Bathurst district is extremely narrow at its eastern extremity, having only the town- ship of Nepean, it however extends very considerably towards the west, and in shape resembles a triangle. A considerable portion of the land in this district, is very valuable, and will, no doubt, be ere long thickly inhabited, but like other parts of the Canadas, it is not free from swampy land. This is the most northerly portion of the upper province at present surveyed, and in which settle- 138 APPENDIX. ments have been formed. It is well watered by sereral lakes and rivers, which flow through the townships to the river. The largest lake is situate in Drummond, Beck- with, and Ramsey, from whence a considerable river runs through the greater part of Ramsey, Pakenham, and Fitzroy, till it meets the Ottawa. Roads are not nume- rous as yet, but the sale of crown lands in this district, as well as other parts of the Canadas, will enable the govern- ment to complete various main roads by which access can be had to the interior. The Midland District is bounded, on the east by the Johnstown and Bathurst districts, on the west by the Newcastle district, on the north-east by the Ottawa, and on the south by Lake Ontario, from which the St. Law- rence issues. This district is at least four times the ex- tent from north to south, that it is from east to west, and lies right across Upper Canada, from Lake Ontario to the Ottawa. This district is surveyed in part, and thirty-sis townships have been laid out, however, from the rapid progress made in the different districts, it is probable that the entire province will be in a short time, subdivided into townships, and lots for settlers, the several townships front- ing the St Lawrence, bay of Quinte, and lake Ontario, are of various extent and shape, occasioned by the bays, har- bours, and peninsulas formed by the waters of this inland sea. Pittsburgh, Kingston, Earnest town, Fredericks- burgh, Adolphustown, Richmond, Marysburgh, Hallowell, Sophiasburgh, Hillier, and Amehasburgh, are the town- ships adjoining the waters of the Ontario, towards the east ; Loughborough, Portland, and Camden, Trendinaga, Thurlow, and Sidney, being situate on the bay of Quinte Bedford, Hinchinbrook, Sheffield, Hungerford, Hunting- APrENDIX. 139 don, and Rawdon, being the third range of to\\-nships, Oso, Olden, Kennebec, Kalladar, Elze>-ir, Madox, and Marmora, being the fourth range, Palmerston, Clarendon, Barrie, Anglesea, Grimsthoqic, Tudor, and Lake, are the fifth range, and beyond which no settlements have been yet effected. These to\TOships do not occupy half the district, the remainder being still unexplored, or at least not subdivided. All the townships adjoining the waters of Lake Ontario are most advantageously situated, the soil generally good ; however, there are several swamps, and some rocky land* The Rideau canal passes through Pittsburgh. The bay of Quinte is formed by the peninsula called Prince Ed- ward's Island, and which is divided into the townships of I\Iarysburgh, Hallowell, Sophiasburgh, Hillier, and Ame- liasburgh, as before mentioned. Mr. Fergusson, in his Tour in Canada, lately published, states that the scenery in this bay was pleasing, and in many places fine, settle- ments formed on every hand, the soil partly clay, partly loam and sand, sufficiently rich in some instances, to peld fifteen good crops of wheat in a period of twenty years.— Granite, limestone, and schistus or clayslate, are succes- sively met with, wherever a stream or creek of any im- portance falls into the lake, there a mill site and village are to be found, the embryo in many cases, of considerable towns. Bath, Adolphusto^^•n, Hallowell, Sophiasburgh, and Belleville, are all thriving villages, and many indivi- duals arc to be met with in each, who, from humble situ- ations, are rapidly acquiring independence. Belleville is the county town of Hastings, and has already three churches, a court-house, and projected jail, a valuable mill power, and fine situation for houses. The main-road from 140 APPENDIX. Kingston to York passes through it (as has been noticed in the account of roads and distances) and it is not impro- bable that it will become a place of considerable note. Steam boats call at the various ports and villages on the lake, and by the time they reach Kingston, the deck is ab- solutely heaped with flour-barrels and other produce. Steam navigation has done more for Canada, within the last few years, than could have been effected in a century, under the old system of inland water conveyance. The river Trent passes through the townships of Huntingdon, Rawdon, and Sidney, falling into tae head of the bay of Quinte. The Nappanee river waters the townships of Loughborough, Portland, Camden, and Richmond, and also falls into the bay. Various other rivers, besides many considerable lakes, water the several townships, and will, no doubt, aiford considerable facility to settle in those re- mote from the lake. The labyrinth of the thousand islands, at the entrance to lake Ontario, and through which the steamers pass and repass from Prescott to Kingston, affords some splendid scenery, — the river, in fine weather, smooth as a mirror, reflects minutely every tree and rock. On every hand, numerous channels present themselves, and wooded islands oi all sizes and forms, well stocked with water-fowl. CENTRAL SECTION". This section of the upper province is divided into two large districts, namely, the Newcastle, and Home, and embraces an extensive tract of country, lying to the west of the midland district, and extending 120 miles along the front of Lake Ontario, bounded on the north by the Ot- APPENDIX. 141 tawa, French River, and Lake Huron, and on the west by the Gore and London districts. This section contains se- veral extensive lakes, and York, the metropolitan town of this province, is situate in the Home district. The Newcastle District extends from Lake Ontario to the Ottawa, and is nearly four times the extent from north to south that it is from east to west. It is well watered by Rice, Balsam, Trout, and other lakes in the interior, and also by the Otanabee part of the Trent, and various other rivers. The colonization experiments of 1823 and 1825, under the control of Mr. Robinson, were made in this district. A very considerable portion of this district has been surveyed or laid out in townships. The following are the only ones yet named or settled, via. Murray, Craraahc, Haldimand, Hamilton, Hope, Clarke, and Darlington, on Lake Ontario ; Seymour, Percy, Aln- wick, Asphodel, Otanabee, Monaghan, Cavan, Manvers, and Cartwright, being the second range from the Lake ; Belmont Dumraer, Douro, Smith, Emily, Ops, and Mari- poda, on the third range ; Methuen, Burleigh, Harvey, Verulam, Fenelon, and Eldon, on the fourth range, making in the whole twenty-nine to\\-nships. This district is thickly settled, and in a rapid state of progression. The river Trent, on the east, is crossed by a ferry, and the road from Kingston enters this district (crossing the townships on the lake to the home district) and upon which the im- proving towns of Cobourg and Port Hope are situate. Cobourg is now a place of considerable trade, through the spirit and enterprise of its merchants, and contains several good houses and stores, an Episcopal Church, Methodist Chapel, good hotels, several distilleries, mills, &c. The exports and imports are very considerable. An excellent 142 APPENDIX. road leads from this town through Hamilton to the Rice Lake. The soil of Hamilton is a sandy loam, and well suited for agricultural purposes. Monaghanand Otanabee are on the north of the Rice Lake. The soil in general is excellent, and the population rapidly increasing. The Otanabee River divides these townships. On the north-east angle of Monaghan is situate the town of Peterborough, the country round is fertile and well-watered ; aframe bridge has been erected over the Otanabee at this place, and the whole neighbourhood presents gratifying evidence of steady and prosperous industry. Smith, Douro, and Emily, are well settled; the soil in general good, and in great variety; there is a sufficient supply of water for mills and other puri>oses. Dummer resembles the last mentioned to\\-n- ships in soil, is well watered, and possesses many advan- tages, which will be made use of by the settler. Beaver meadows are frequent in these townships, and are very serviceable to the inhabitants ; saw and other mills have been erected in many places ; the line of water communi- cation is so considerable in the northern townships it is ex- pected that the greater portion of their produce \\i\\ pass by Peterborough. Ops is one of the finest towiiships in this district, and is well watered by the Scugog River, which is navigable for boats, and by which settlers may proceed to Mud Lake. There is a road from Port Hope to Emily, and Smith passing along the boundary line between Hope and Hamilton, Cavan and Monaghan. Cavan was first located in 1817, and there has not been for some years a lot undisposed of (except reserves). The soil is good, and well watered. This township is highly improved, and the dealings very extensive. The other townships in this district possess much good land, and are in general well APPENDIX. 143 watered, upon which many mills have been erected in con- venient situations. Generally speaking the soil in the inland townships is superior to those near Ontario. Churches and various other places of worship have been erected in this district, and numerous schools are estab- lished in the townships. Petersborough was selected by Mr. Robinson in the year 1823, as the depot or licad quarters of the emigrants who were located at that period under his direction. TuE Home District lies to the west of Newcastle, and extends from Lake Ontario on the south to the French River on the north. The south-eastern Umb of Lake Huron extends considerably into this district, and with Lake Simcoo, nearly divide it. There arc several Dutch settlements in this district, in and near the township of Markham. The soil near Lake Ontario is not so good as in the interior, particularly near Lake Simcoe. York, the seat of the Provincial Government of the Province is in this district. It is well situated on the north of an excel- lent harbour on Lake Ontario, and contains the House of Assembly, Government House, Provincial Bank, College, Court House, Hall for the Law Society, Gaol, Barracks, Churches, and other places of worship, with several other public buildings ; the streets are spacious and regular ; many of the houses are built of brick and stone, but the majority arc of timber. The population is considerable' and rapidly increasing. Being the residence of the Chief Officers of the Government, many of the luxuries of life are to be had. There are several newspapers pub- lished here. The lands in the neighbourhood are highly cultivated, and the market of the town is always well sup. plied. In the rere of the town runs the road called Yonsre- 144 APPENDIX. street, which leads to Gwilliamburg, a village 32 miles to the northward, and from thence to Cook's Bay, 5 miles distant, from whence by Lake Simcoe there is a commu- nication with Lake Hm-on. The land in the neighbour- hood of this road is very fertile and well cultivated ; seve- ral other roads diverge from York to various places. The townships on the Lakes are thickly settled, with a few exceptions, where the soil is bad, and the entire is well watered. The rivers abound with fish, particularly salmon. A considerable portion of the district to the north of Lake Simcoe has not been surveyed, but the southern part has been laid out, and contains fifty-three townships, as fol- lows, viz. Whitby, Pickering, Scarboro', York, and Toron- to, on Lake Ontario ; Reach, Uxbridge, Markham, Vaughan, Gore of Toronto, Ettibocoke, and Chinguacousy, (in rere of the former,) Brock, (whose north-east angle borders Lake Simcoe), Scott, Whitchurch, King, New- market, Albion, and Caledon, being the third range of townships from Lake Ontario ; Georgina, bounded on the north by Lake Simcoe ; east, west and north, Gwilliam- burg, surrounding a bay of the same lake, Tecumseth, Adjala, Mono, Amaranth, and Luther, Innisfil bounded on the east by Lake Simcoe, Essa, Tossorondio, Mulmur, Melancthon, and Proton ; Oro on the north-west shore of Lake Simcoe, and divided from Innisfil by a bay, Vespra, also adjoining the bay ; Sunnidale, bounded on the north by Lake Huron, Merlin, Ospry, and Artenesia, Java, Alta, and Zero, bounded on the north-east by a bay of Lake Huron, called Nottawasaga, and into which the river of that name flows, Euphrasia ; the narrow township of Thorah, Mara, and Rama, lying between Lake Simcoe and the Newcastle district ; Orillia, opposite Rama, on the APPENDIX. 145 Other side of the lake ; Maichudash on the River Severn, which flows from lake Simcoe into lake Huron, Medonte, and Flos, whose west angle touches Nottawasaga bay ; Tay and Tiny, peninsular townships, extending into the Georgian bay of lake Huron ; the Nottawasaga river rises in the township of Amaranth, and takes its course to the Huron lake, passing Mono, Adjala, Tecumseth, Essa, Vespra, Flos, and Sunnidale ; several tributary streams join this river from other townships : this district is highly recommended by many persons, as presenting to emi- grants a large quantity of good land, numerous roads kept in tolerable order, several water privileges and convey- ances, excellent markets, a fine climate, and thriving co- lony. WESTERN SECTION. This Section embraces all that tract of country, from the head of lake Ontario ; bounded by lake Erie on the south, lakes St. Clair and Huron on the west, the Indian territory on the north, and the Home district on the east : its extreme length, from north to south, exceeds 200 miles, and is in breadth, from east to west, in its widest part, nearly as much. Its surface is generally level, having few eminences — the principal of which is that ridge which forms the Falls of Niagara, as has been already men- tioned. The soil is, without exception, better than in any other part of the Canadas ; the whole tract is alluvial in its formation, and the surface is a deep and rich vegetable mould, sometimes intermixed with a rich sandy loam, highly fertile in its properties — extensive quarries of lime- stone are to be found in various parts of this province ; freestone is occasionally found on the shores of the lakes. H 146 APPENDIX. This section is divided into four districts — namely, the Gore, Niagara, London, and Western ; the whole is well watered by the following rivers, and their numerous branches, viz., the Thames, Ouse, Welland or Chippewa, Big Bear, and Maitland. The Gore District is bounded on the north and east by the Home district ; on the south, by lake Ontario, and the Niagara district ; and on the west, by the London district and Indian territory. A considerable portion of this tract belongs to the Canada Company, who have built nearly in its centre, the town of Guelph, upon the river Speed, a branch of the Ouse. This rapidly rising town was commenced by Mr. Gait, for the Canada Com- pany, in 1827, and is now of considerable extent and im- j)ortance, containing several places of tvorsMp, grist and saw mills, distilleries, market-house, schools, printing of- fice, hotels, and taverns, &c. ; many new houses are erected every year, and the population is very considerable. About eighteen miles from Guelph, in the township of Dum- fries, the Hon. Mr. Dixon founded the town of Gait : its Situation is excellent, and will, no doubt, attract settlers of respectability and capital. There are several villages rising into importance in the district, particularly on the main road from York to the Niagara district ; the princi- pal of which are, Ancaster and Dundas. This district is divided into eighteen townships, viz., Trafalgar, Nelson, and Flamboro east, on the head of lake Ontario, called Burlington bay ; Ancaster, at the extreme point of the hay ; Beverley and Dumfries, Esquising, Nassagiweya, Flamboro West, Puslinch, Waterloo, and Wilmot, Erin, Eramosa, Guelph, Garafraxa, Nichol, Woolwich, and the reserve for the six nations, or Aborigines of North Ame- APPENDIX. 147 rica. In many of the townships the farms have attained a well cultivated appearance, comfort and cheerful indus- try are very apparent, where the settlers are occupied in the clearing of land, or conducting the business of more advanced husbandry. The humble shanty, the original nest of the family, is frequently observed beside the new and more extended mansion, and is calculated to form a useful memorial of the days when they entered the great Forest, but which a few short years have transformed into luxuriant fields of corn ; and Mr. Fergusson states, that cleanliness and comfort seemed to prevail in the interior of each habitation, and that the women and children were particularly tidy and neat ; he also speaks highly of Sum- mer's tavern, in Nelson township, about thirty-five miles from York. The surface of the country from Nelson to Guelph, is finely undulated, with copious springs, numerous rivulets, and romantic dells ; the road in some places, is in a bad state, particularly when passing over swamps : it may not be amiss here to state, that the roads across swamps are formed of logs or trees, laid side by side, in consequence of which they have obtained the name of Corduroys. The Canadian horses, with infinite caution, contrive to scramble over them ; but a stranger feels ra- ther uncomfortable at the occasional flounders of his horse in a mud hole, or the giving way of a rotten log. How- ever, these little annoyances will soon be corrected ; and even at present they only affect the settler in the summer months, at a time when he is least disposed to leave home, or make use of the roads ; — a new bridge has been just erected across the river Speed, at Guelph, and round which the river flows. The land in the township of Wa- terloo is very good, and the farms greatly improved ; the 148 APPENDIX. stock large, and in excellent condition; the inhabitants are mostly Dutch — their dwelling-houses, offices, and gar- dens, are kept with a degree of neatness not to be sur- passed in Canada. Occasionally the traveller meets the residence of a negro family, whose house and farm speak the steady labour that has been bestowed on them, and clearly proves, that the negro will not prove too indolent for labour in a state of freedom ; numbers of these poor creatures escape from that land of liberty, the United States, and settle in various parts of the Canadas. Gait is on the bank of the Ouse, and the proprietor of the township resides here ; and by his judicious and liberal conduct, have produced a great influx of emigrants, from whom he receives payment of the purchase money of land by instalments, in money or produce, at such times as they can afford to pay ; and even in some instances, he has supplied the means of purchasing oxen, implements, and seed. Flour and saw mills, cooperage, &c., have been established here ; and it has been lately ascertained that the Ouse is navigable to the Wellaud canal, a dis- tance, by water, of 100 miles, and which is a discovery of incalculable value to this district, as farming produce can now be conveyed by this line to lake Ontario, at one- third the cost which had been theretofore incurred. Many very superior lots of land are to be met with in this dis- trict, in convenient situations, and at moderate prices ; the emigrant must not forget that in the Canadas a very few years produces more change in the appearance of the countrj', and in the value of land, than he can almost ima- gine ; and that these changes are for the better, so much so, that it would almost require an annual publication to give a true picture of the Canadas. APPENDIX. 149 The Niagara District is bounded on the east, by the Niagara river, which passes from lake Erie to lake Onta- rio ; on the west, by the London district ; on the north, by lake Ontario, and a part of the Gore district ; and on the south, by lake Erie. It is in shape nearly an oblong ; the Ouse traverses a considerable portion of it ; and the Welland canal before -mentioned, connects the navigation of the two lakes passing through this district. There are several towns and villages in Niagara : the principal of which are, Hamilton, a neat town, with a handsome Court- house erected for the district ; Fort George, or Niagara, also called Newark, on lake Ontario, and at the mouth of the Niagara river : it is a thriving town — the arrival at and departure from, of the various steam-boats, sloops, and other vessels employed on the lake, must greatly in- crease its prosperity. It is protected by a fort, in which there is a large detachment of military ; a weekly market is held in the town, which is well attended. Grimsby is eighteen miles from Hamilton, on the road to Queenston. The country along this line is, in many places, romantic and beautiful, with fine farms, and rich orchards of peach, plurn, cherry, apple, &c. The crops in general are of the best description, and most abundant, particularly the wheat ; the road runs by the ridge which passes round the head of lake Ontario, and over which the waters of the Niagara fall. Grimsby is a neat town, near the margin of the lake, under the brow of the ridge ; St. Catharine's is upon the summit level of the Welland canal, and which at this point descends by wooden locks to the level of the lake — the canal was opened about a year since. The country between this and Queenston is mostly under cul- ture, interspersed with numerous fine orchards. 150 APPENDIX. Queenston is situated on the Niagara, opposite the American village of Lewiston ; the monument erected to the memory of the gallant and lamented General Brock, is on the loftiest part of the heights of Queenston, and forms an object of much interest to the traveller. This to\\Ti contains a church, court-house, government stores, and has a numerous and increasing population. Four miles west of Queenston, is the village of St. David's, on a small stream called Four Mile Creek. Chippewa, on both sides of the Welland river, and ten miles from Queenston, contains a barrack, small fort, and some neat houses. At the head of the Niagara river, and sixteen miles from Chippewa, near Fort Erie, is the village of Waterloo, opposite Black Rock and Buffalo, on the American bank ; (convenient to the Falls, in the States, is the village of Manchester, having good hotels, and vari- ous mills ;) other villages and hamlets are scattered in this district, but those already mentioned are the principal. There is a splendid establishment near the Falls of Nia- gara, called Forsyth's Hotel, where every accommodation can be had, and is much frequented by persons visiting the Falls. Mr. Fergusson says, when speaking of Nia- gara, that " the most eloquent description will prove ina- dequate to convey a just conception of the scene, nor can the pencil ever do it justice. A cataract may be said (as regards the painter's art) to differ from all objects in na- ture : the human face and figure, the rich and varied land- scape, the animal and vegetable world, may, with suffi- cient propriety, be delineated at rest ; but quiescence forms no feature here : the ceaseless roar, the spray mounting like clouds of smoke from a great lime-kiln, with the enor- mous sheet of water which rolls over the precipice, can be APPENDIX. 151 felt and understood only by repeated visits to the scene." The rapids above the Falls, are extremely interesting, and excite admiration and wonder. A short distance above the Falls, the river is a mile across, and presents one con- tinued sheet of foam ; below the Falls there is a ferry to the American side, and from it the scene is magnificent — the Horse Shoe, the American Fall, and Goat Island be- ing all in view, with the great cauldron boiling and eddy- ing in fearful and endless disorder. Much might be writ- ten respecting this very interesting district ; but here any thing further would exceed the limits prescribed for this work, except stating the respective townships into which it is divided, and of which there are twenty-one, viz., Bar- ton, Saltfleet, Grimsby, Clinton, Louth, Grantham, and Niagara, on the south shore of lake Ontario ; Glanford, Binbrook, Caistor, Gainsboro, Pelham, Thorold, and Stam- ford, in rere of the former ; Canboro, Moulton, Wainfleet, Huraberstone, Bertie, Crowland, and Willoughby, partly bounded by the north shore of lake Erie, and on the east by the Niagara river. Several highly respectable indivi- duals have published a project of an intended city at the Falls, intended or designed to be the Bath or Brighton of the North American continent. The London District, including the Indian territory, is bounded on the east, by the Niagara, Gore, and Home districts ; on the west, by the Western District and lake Huron ; on the north, l)y the same lake : and on the soutli, by lake Erie. The quality of the soil, in this extensive district, is extremely good, and generally composed of a deep, rich, black loam, and thinly timbered. The Thames, Ouse, Aux Sables, Maitland, and several other rivers wa- ter this tract in various directions, in addition to the ex- 152 APPENDIX. tensive water frontier which it possesses. On the road which passes the frontier of lake Erie, is the village of Dover, in the to^vnship of Woodhouse ; ten miles fur- ther is the village of Charlotteville, in which iron works have been established, and which are well supplied with ore from the neighbourhood. To the north of Charlotte- ville, Oil the post road, is another village, called Victoria ; Oxford, on the road called Dundas-street, is ninety miles from York ; London, situate on the Thames and on the same route, is 123 miles ; the village of Dellaware also on the Thames, and not very distant from London, is prin- cipally inhabited by Indians, and near which there is a Moravian settlement, who, by industry and good conduct exhibit an example to the Indian converts over whom they exercise a missionary superintendance ; the settle- ment is in a flourishing state, and the lands highly culti- vated ; the Indians appear cheerful, contented, and happy, and many of them are very intelligent. Goderich, on lake Huron, is a town recently founded by the Canada Company in their tract — the river Maitland falls into the Huron at this town. It is the only port on the Canadian side of the lake, and is capable of containing vessels of 200 tons burthen. The town has been judiciously planned on the elevated shores of the lake, by which, and the Maitland, it is surrounded on three sides ; the streets di- verge from an octagon-shaped market-place ; roads are in progress to various parts, and the Canada Company have engaged to expend a sum of ^648,000 in this tract, in the making roads, improvement of water communications, building of churches, school houses, bridges, wharfs, and other works, for the benefit and accommodation of the public. On the shore, and about the centre of lake Erie, APPENDIX. 153 is situate the celebrated settlement of Colonel Talbot, and which he commenced in 1802 : the progress which he has made is truly astonishing. Roads are now made from Port Talbot on every side, and the whole presents one of the most highly improved and valuable tracts in the province : he has located nearly 30,000 souls, or 6,000 families. A considerable portion of this district has been surveyed, and laid out into towTiships ; the Huron tract is now the ex- clusive property of the Canada Company. There are fifty-four townships, viz., Rainham, Walpole, Woodhouse, Charlotteville, Walsingham, from whence long point ex- tends into lake Erie ; Houghton, Bayham, Malahide, Yar- mouth, Southwold, Dunwich and Aldborough, on lake Erie ; Townsend, Wyndham, Norwich, Dereham, Dorches- ter North, Dorchester South, Westminster, Delaware, Carra- doc, Ekfrid and Mosa, in rere of the former ; Burford, Oxford East, Oxford West, Oxford North, Nissouri, London, and Lo- bo being the third range of townships from lake Erie ; Blen- heim, Blandford, and Zorra : the following are in the Ca- nada Company's Huron tract, North Easthope, South Easthope, EUice, Logan, M'Killop, Hullett, Colborne, to the north, and bounding land belonging to the Crown ; Dowiiie, Fullarton, Hibbert and Tucker Smith, Goderich, Stanley, Hay, Stephen jM'Gillivray, and Bosanquet, on lake Huron ; Williams, Biddulph, Blanshard, and Usborne, in the interior. The Indian territory lies to the north of the Huron tract, and has not been yet explored. The Western District is bounded on the East by the London district, on the West by the river St. Clair, lake St. Clair, and Detroit river, on the North by lake Huron, and on the South by lake Erie, the St. Clair runs from lake Huron to lake St. Clair, the Detroit river from h2 154 APPENDIX. lake St. Clair to lake Erie. This tract is tongue-shaped, lake St. Clair indenting it, and approaching lake Erie, and is surrounded on three sides by rivers and lakes. The Thames and Big Bear Creek rivers flow from the London district, through this, and fall into lake St. Clair. The Thames is navigable for vessels of considerable size, to Chatham, about fifteen miles from its mouth, and for boats to London. The rivers which fall into lake St. Clair, flow through rich alluvial soils, and bring dovni a large quantity of mud, particularly in spring, this being deposited at the mouth of the diff'erent rivers, forms bars, which are rapidly increasing, and encroaching on the lake in a semicircular form like a ridge, alternately with a prairie, and a marshy run of water. It is supposed that eventually the entire of lake St. Clair will become a fertile plain, mth a deep sluggish river running through it. Besides the rivers already mentioned, several other streams flow through this district. Amherstburgh (on the east bank of the Detroit about three miles from lake Erie) is the principal town. — This beautifully situated and somewhat wealthy town was founded by the French upwards of a century ago, and being a frontier post, and military depot during the war, the state of society is more refined than in any of the other to\\Tis in this province. This town possesses a safe and convenient harbour, and its situation is much admired, being in the midst of a fine country, interspersed with rich and luxuriant orchards, bearing, in the highest perfection, the rarest fruits in the open air, without any particular at- tention or care, it contains a Church, Court-house, Gaol, and some other public buildings, also several good houses, shops, hotels, and a numerous population. Fourteen miles higher up the Detroit, and about midway between lakes APPENDIX. 155 St. Clair and Erie, the town of Sandwich has been built, containing' nearly two hundred houses, also a Church, Court-house, Gaol, &c. Chatham village, on the Thames, is in the centre of a rich and improving tract, and will, no doubt, become a town of some importance, and a place of export for farming produce. There are several villages scattered through the district, and many flourishing settle- ments, also an Indian village in the township of Zone. — On the northern banks, and near the head of lake Erie, there is a large settlement of American loyalists. Along the Detroit, the lots for settlements have been laid out in long narrow slips, in the manner of the seignorial conces- sions of Lower Canada, and the manners of the people partake much of the character of the better sort of Ca- nadians of the lower province. Hemp, flax, and tobacco have been cultivated in this district. The quantity of to- bacco sent to market has been very considerable. There are several roads made, and others projected to various parts. Many persons conceive that a Canal from St. Clair to lake Erie, by the Romney township line, or from the river Thames at its nearest point to lake Erie, would, by turning the waters of the St. Clair through that channel, drain, and otherwise improve a vast quantity of land, now mostly under water, and that the greater part of lake St. Clair would be completely drained. This district is di- vided into twenty-three townships, as follows : — Orford, Howard, Harwich, Raleigh, Tilbury, East Romney, Mer- sea, Gosfield, and Colchester, on lake Erie ; Zone, Cam- den, and Chatham, Dover, Tilbury West, Rochester West, and Maidstone, on lake St. Clair ; Sandwich, Maiden, and Amherstburgh, on Detroit river ; St. Clair, Indian Re- serves, and Sombra, on the St. Clair river ; and Dawn in 156 APPENDIX. the interior adjoining Sombra ; there is also a considera- ble tract towards the North, and adjoining lake Huron not yet named ; the London and Western districts have been called the Garden of Canada, and there is not in America so large a tract of unexceptionable land, it is based on limestone rock, over which there is a stratum of clay, then a layer of gravel, varj-ing in thickness, and the surface or mould is of a loamy description, sometimes sandy and clayey, but in every case highly productive. In many parts of this province Gypsum, is found in great abundance, which makes a superior top dressing for grass lands, and is a most valuable manure, acting upon land, as lime does, but used in a lesser proportion. Salt is also much used in the Canadas, and perhaps it is more necessary there than in the United Kingdoms, the atmosphere being in the inte- rior so far removed from the influence of the sea. CITIES AND TOWNS. Quebec is proudly seated on Cape Diamond, on the northern banks of the St. Lawrence, the lower town is at the foot of the promontory, and is excessively crowded with buildings, for the convenience of the shipping. The warehouses and stores are built on the wharfs ; the streets are narrow and not very clean ; the ascent to the Upper Town irregular, but the houses and buildings improve as you advance ; they are mostly built of grey stone, with high sloping roofs, generally covered with tin or sheet iron. The view from the ramparts of the citadel of the celebrated plains of Abram beyond can scarcely be equalled. The citadel is built on the river-ward edge of the rock, at the height of 350 feet above the level of the St. APPENDIX. 157 Lawrence. Here also stands the Governor's residence and other public buildings, also a monument to the memory of Wolfe. The Upper Town is entered by a fortified gate from which streets diverge in various directions, and one of which leads to a large and spacious square. The streets in this part of the town are wide, and the houses large and respectable. The population is about 30,000, or up- wards. The customhouse is in the lower town. Govern- ment has expended large sums of money upon the fortifi- cations of Quebec, and which are almost impregnable ; the walls of the citadel are forty feet high, and the ditch about fifty feet wide, cut out of the solid rock. From the old Cavalier's Battery, on the summit, there is a magnifi- cent view of the noble St. Lawrence, underneath is the city, with its wharfs and numerous shipping. On the op- posite or southern shore rises Point Levi, enlivened by many a gay building, and improved farms. To the east, the isle of Orleans is seen dividing the river, and on the north east the river Montmorenci precipitates its waters over a fall 240 feet in height. The plains of Abram ex- tend to the westward, and the main road to Montreal in- tersects them. The inhabitants of Quebec are of various nations, French Canadians, English, Irish, Scotch, Ameri- cans, Indians, and various others. Law proceedings are conducted in English and French, being the languages ge- nerally spoken. The influx of emigrants to the port cff Quebec to the 16th of September, 1832, amounted to 49,569, being an increase of 3,500 over the preceding year to the same date, and it is probable that nearly 5,000 arrived after that date. Several steam-boats arrive at and depart from Quebec every day, and of which Mr. Mol- som is the principal proprietor. 158 APPENDIX. There are several public buildings in Quebec, some of them equal to many in European cities, the principal of which are the houses in which the Provincial Parliament hold their sittings, the Seminary or Collegiate building. Court-house, Gaol, Metropolitan Catholic Cathedral, Pro- testant Cathedral, Ursuline and other Convents, Armoury, Bank, Library, Exchange, and various others usual in prin- cipal cities. Between St. Louis and St. John's Gate is a fine esplanade, and is the usual place of parade for the troops of the garrison. Point aux Tremble is a considerable town on the St. Lawrence, twenty-four miles from Quebec, and contains a Collegiate Church, a Convent for Nuns, and a consider- able population, all of whom are French Canadians. Three Rivers is situate on a point of land on the north bank of the St. La^\Tence, where the St. Maurice (on which the celebrated iron works and forges are erected,) falls into it. This is one of the oldest towns in Canada ; it contains a Protestant and Catholic Church, a Convent of Ursulines, which may be more properly called an Hos- pital and Seminary for Female Education, Courthouse for the district. Gaol, Barrack, &c. The population exceeds 3,000. The houses are generally built of wood ; there is a considerable trade carried on at Three Rivers. The forges on the St. Maurice are about seven miles distant. Berthier is midway between Three Rivers and Montreal, and through which the stage coaches pass. It contains a handsome Church, inns, shops, and over 900 inhabitants. It is a place of considerable importance, and has manj' stores for general merchandize. William Henry is 135 miles from Quebec, on the south bank of the St. Lawrence, having the Richelieu river on APPENDIX. 159 the west ; it is regularly l^dd out with a square in the cen- tre, and contains well-built Protestant and Catholic churches, block-house, Hospital, and a small garrison, — From it5 salubrious and pleasant situation, this town is ge- nerally the summer residence of the Governor of the pro- vince. The population is about 2000. The steam-boats take in fuel here. Montreal is situated on the south of the island, and seigniory of Montreal. The new and upper part of the city is well laid out, and contains some good streets ; many of the houses are handsome ; the view of the city as it is approached from Prairie is splendid, the glistening tin- roofs of houses, nunneries, and churches, give it a magnifi- cent appearance rarely equalled, while the mountain, with its woods, orchards, villas, and rocks, forms a beautiful and romantic back-ground to the picture. Many of the pub- lic buildings are well designed and executed, particularly the Court-house and Gaol, and the Roman Catholic Ca- thedral, lately erected at an expense of 100,000/. The material employed for building is a fine dark grey lime- stone susceptible of a good polish. The shops and houses are generally provided with iron shutters, which gives the city a gloomy and prison-like appearance on Sundays. As yet no quays have been built, but they are in contempla- tion. There are two market-places in Montreal, in one of which stands a monument to Lord Nelson, which is a Doric column, surmounted by a colossal statue of the na- val hero. The Champ de Mars is an agreeable esplanade planted roxmd with Lombardy poplars, and contains seve- ral handsome buildings. The troops of the garrison arc reviewed here, and the military bands perform during the evenings, in summer and autumn, for the amusement of the 160 APPENDIX. fashionables who promenade there. There are several churches and protestant places of worship in this city, the principal of which is in Notre Dame-street ; it is a hand- some stone edifice with a beautiful spire. There are a considerable number of charitable institutions, colleges, seminaries, libraries, and other public buildings, in Mon- treal , there are several excellent hotels, and one of them near the river is more like a public edifice than a house of entertainment. The population exceeds 30,000, and is of a very mixed character, native Canadians in their grey surtouts ; Indians waapt up in their blankets ; English, Irish, and Scotch, are seen bustling along, with priests and bands of pretty little female choristers arrayed in white, flitting from church to convent, and sottw few mendicants soliciting alms. The artillery station is on the river St. Helen's opposite the lower end of the city. For the ac- commodation of trade, it is expected that a Custom-house will be erected, but at present all vessels clear out from Quebec. The royal mountain which overlooks the city, whose altitude is 800 feet above the river, is considered for soft luxuriant beauty, not to be equalled in America. — Round this mountain is the favourite drive of the citizens. The principal towns in the upper province have been already noticed in their respective districts, and therefore it is not necessary to mention them again, it may not, however, be uninteresting to the public to mention, that a new city is about being erected at the Falls of Niagara, and the following is the substance of a paper recently published or circulated in the Canadas, and United States : APPENDIX. 161 CITY OF THE FALLS. Mr. Forsyth having disposed of his interest in the pro- perty at the Falls of Niagara, it is proposed to found a city on the elevated grounds contiguous to the falls, a situ- ation the most healthful on the North American Conti- nent, After mentioning several probable causes for the salubrity of this place— the places of attraction in Ame- rica, and that none of them possess the advantages to be found in any of the many places of fashionable resort in Europe, the situation of the Falls for the formation of a city embracing the several advantages necessary, is pointed out, and particularly the various means for internal communication with the entire Continent of America. It is alleged, that the proposed " City of the Falls" is placed like the heart in the human body, standing in the direct route of persons travelling to and from various parts of this country, and affording an easy approach for the annual assemblage of the fashionable, the learned, and the great. These considerations have led to the formation of a company of gentlemen, who have purchased Forsyth's grounds, houses, &c., and who propose to lay out the lands so purchased, in streets, or lots to be sold for build- ings, according to a scale, insuring the comfort of the new community. The association propose to place the Pavilion and Ontario house under proper superintendence ; so that all who resort there will find a union of comfort \\-ith eco- nomy, in the midst of a society truly desirable. Baths are to be erected near the cataract, and over these a splended pump-room, reading-room, library, &c., for the accommodation of all visiters — the grounds to be laid out 162 APPENDIX. in the most approved style ; lots will be set apart for pub- lic buildings ; cottages to be forthwith erected and fur- nished for private families resorting to the falls during Summer. The Pavilion is intended for those who propose remaining over a week ; Ontario-house for those staying a shorter period ; both to be well supplied with every ne- cessary accommodation, at moderate charges. Peculiar advantages are held out to such as may erect houses during the present year for permanent or Summer re- sidences ; streets to be laid out and marked in building lots ; materials are from 50 to 100 per cent, cheaper than in New York ; the city will afford a most agreeable, permanent residence for respectable families of limited income, the necessaries and luxuries of life being remark- ably cheap ; good schools will be formed, and the best society met without the expense of entertaining them. A charter is to be applied for, so that aliens may hold real estate in the city ; proprietors, Hon. W. Allen, James Buchanan, Esq., Hon. Thomas Clarke, Hon. J. H. Dunn, Thomas Dixon, Esq. Lieutenant-General Murray, James Robinson, Esq., and Samuel Street, Esq. The survey was to have been completed the let of August last ; and an agent is in attendance to give every necessary infor- mation. General Murray has already fixed his residence at the new city, and several other gentlemen contem- plate building immediately. APPENDIX. 163 LAKES AND CANALS. In concluding this sketch of the Canadas it may not be thought unimportant to give the particulars of the extent of the principal Lakes and Canals. Lake Ontario is the first on the river St. Lawrence; its greatest length is 180 miles, and greatest breadth 60 miles, and average depth 500 feet ; it is calculated that the surface of this Lake is about 200 feet above the level of the St. Lawrence, at Three Rivers. Lake Erie is the next, and is separated from Ontario by the Niagara river (upon which the cele- brated falls are) ; it is about 270 miles in length, nearly 70 miles in breadth, and 200 feet in depth, and upwards of 300 feet above the level of Lake Ontario. Lake Huron is 246 miles in length, 220 in breadth, and nearly 1000 feet in depth ; this Lake is not more than 60 or 70 feet above the level of Lake Erie. Lake Superior is the largest in the Canadas, and is supposed to be 1500 miles in cir- cumference, and is about the same depth as Lake Huron and its surface is calculated to be over 1000 feet above the level of the sea. This Lake may be called the real head of the St. Lawrence, and presents one vast line of water communication from the sea by the several lakes, rivers, and canals, to the head of Lake Superior, of at least 2000 miles in extent. The precise extent of the various other lakes has not been ascertained ^ith sufficient accuracy, so as to notice them in this work. The Welland Canal unites Lakes Erie and Ontario, and enables vessels to surmount the Falls of Niagara. It is about 42 miles in length, and has 37 locks in its course, each of which is 100 feet in length by 22 feet in breadth ; 164 APPENDIX. the Canal is 56 feet in width at the surface of the water, 26 feet at the bottom, and 8^ feet in depth. The Rideau Canal, between Kingston on Lake On- tario and Bytown on the River Ottawa, is 135 miles in length, including the numerous lakes and dams in its course, and of which the Rideau Lake forms a portion of 24 miles (being about 250 feet above the level of the Ot- tawa, and 150 feet above the level of Lake Ontario). There are on this Canal 47 locks, each 142 feet in length, 33 feet in breadth, and 5 feet in depth ; there are also on this line 20 dams, whereby the waters of the rivers and lakes are raised at different points to the levels required, and by which means the expense of excavating to an enor- mous extent is saved ; this is a new principle in engineer- ing, and well suited to the waters of these provinces. The Grenville Canal is on the northern bank of the Ottawa for the avoiding the rapids on that river ; it is in three sections, namely — opposite the long Salt rapids, the Chute a Blondeau and the Carillon rapids. These canals are 48 feet in breadth at the surface of the water, 28 feet at the bottom, and 5 feet in depth. The Lachine Canal, from Montreal to the village of Lachine, along the banks of the St. Lawrence, was made for the purpose of avoiding the rapids, or cascade, called Sault St. Louis, it is about 8 miles in length, 48 feet in breadth, at the surface of the water ; 28 feet at the bottom, and 5 feet in depth ; the locks are 100 feet in length, by 20 feet in breadth ; but these will be altered to the same size as those of the Rideau, if another canal is not cut at the rere of the Island of Montreal. It is very probable that various other canals will, in a short time, be made in Upper Canada, when the country APPENDIX. 165 becomes better settled, and a consequent necessity for such means of conveying the produce of the land to market ; and particularly in this country where the great expense of such works is considerably reduced by the nu- merous rivers, whose level waters only require occasional locks or dams, or short canals, to open communications be- tween them, many persons in the Canadas are favourable to rail-roads ; but on the whole, it is considered, that for many years water conveyance will be found more advan- tageous to the interests and improvement of the country. NEW BRUNSWICK. As the province of New Brunswick is closely connected with Lower Canada, and many persons may feel disposed to settle there, the following short notice has been pre- pared, by which it will appear that it is by no means an unimportant portion of the British dominions in America : — it is about 180 miles in extent from East to West, and 200 from North to South, and is situate between the boundary line of the United States on the South West, and the bayof Chaleur and river Ristigouche, which di- vides it from Lower Canada on the North, and has to the East an extensive sea-coast from the bay of Chaleur to the bay of Fundy ; a great part of the country is still a com- plete wilderness, but the soil in general is extremely rich and fertile ; a small portion near the coast, on the bay of Fundy, is rocky and hard to cultivate ; the immense forests which cover the country are principally composed of pine, birch, beech, and maple, with some others ; the trees are of enormous size, and considered the finest in America ; the land is very level, having few hills, and none that can be properly called mountains. At particular seasons in 166 APPENDIX. the vear the several rivers overflow their banks and irrio'ate the soil. Beaver meadows are very frequent in the in- terior on the banks of small streams. This province is well watered by numerous rivers, the principal of which are, St. John's, Miramichi, Nipishighit, Magadavic, Richi- bucto, Oromocto, Petit Coudiac, and several others, which are navigable for a considerable distance into the country. The lakes are very numerous, and some of them of considerable extent, ^iz. Grand Lake, Oromocto and Big Magadavic Lake. Limestone and marble are fouiid in various parts in great abundance — also coal, iron ore, gj'jisum, &c., which must add to the prosperity of the province ; the scenery on the rivers, lakes, and cataracts, is picturesque and beautiful — often wild and romantic. Wild animals are very numerous in the woods, and amongst others are bears, moose-deer, foxes, tiger-cats, racoons, porcupines, martins, beavers, otters, hares, weasels, &c. &c. Fish is very abundant on the coast, and in the rivers and lakes. Cod, haddock, mackerel, salmon, shad, bass, &c. &c. are the principal, but there are many others. The climate of New Brunswick is salubrious ; the fevers of the Southern States of America are unknown here ; occasional colds and gentle typhus fever in the beginning of winter are the prevailing diseases, and are generally con- tracted in the beginning of ■winter for want of proper pre- caution at the change of the season. Rheumatism affects lumberers, who are much exposed to cold and wet in the rivers getting down the rafts of timber. The country is fully as healthy as England. The population does not ex- ceed 90,000, although it is capable of maintaining 3,000,000. The principal settlements are along the banks of all the APPENDIX. 167 navigable rivers, and many of tliem very flourishing. The chief towns are St. John's, Fredcrickton, St. Andrew's, and Miramichi. In 1785, by a royal charter. New Brunswick was con- stituted a district province, and a Governor appointed ; the government consists of the Governor, Council of Twelve, and House of Representatives of twenty-eight members, returned by the counties and cities. The Governor sits in the Court of Chancery ; a Chief and three Puisne Judges sit in the Supreme Court, which is somewhat similar in practice to the King's Bench in Great Britain. Civil and criminal cases arc tried in this Court — terms in February, May, July, and October. Inferior courts or courts of Commons Pleas are held in the several counties for trial of petty offences and actions of small amount — debts under £5. arc recoverable before the Magistrates. The revenue of the province amounts to about ^£43,000, and is raised by trifling duties on imports, rent of wild meadows, and lands belonging to the Crown, this is appropriated by the House of Assembly, to the necessary purposes of the government, and improving the country. This pro- vince is divided into ten counties, viz. St. John's, West- moreland, Charlotte, Sunbury, York, Northumberland, Kent, Gloucester, Devon, and Hereford ; St. John's is the largest town, though it is not the metropolis, (Fredc- rickton being the seat of government) — it has an excellent Court-house, Marine Hospital, Poor-house, Gaol, two Epis- copal Churches, Scotch Kirk, Roman Catholic Chapel, Me- thodist, and Baptist Chapels, Bank, &c., and the city is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, six Aldermen, Sheriif, &c., who hold a court for the county and city of St. John's. The government price of land in the forest is 3s. per acre, 168 APPENDIX. but improved land can be had in various parts at moderate rates, near the chief towns land is very valuable, and brings very high prices. Summer continues seven months, -winter five ; the wea- ther in winter iscold and dry, frost and snow for four months ; summer dry and warm ; thermometer from 60 to 90. The staple trade consists of exports of timber of every description in gross and in plank, staves, &c., salted fish, and ship building. The imports, of flour from the United States and Canada, and all the luxuries of life from Great Britain. The great tide of emigration to the Canadas has nearly put the many advantages which this province possesses in the back ground, and few of the late vnriters on British America have noticed it at all. This is not fair dealing, particularly when upon enquiry and full examination it will be found that this province posseses some of the best land in America, an equally good climate, and facilities to the emigrant in obtaining land and effect- ing a settlement at a cheaper rate than in the Canadas. The following papers have been circulated by His Majesty s Agent at Quebec ; ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS. Quebec, 1st May, 1832. There is nothing of more importance to Emigrants on arrival at Quebec, than correct information on the leading points connected with their future pursuits. Many have suffered much by a want of caution, and by listening to the opinions of interested designing characters, who fre- quently offer their advice unsolicited, and who are met APPENDIX. 169 generally about wharfs, and landing places frequented by strangers. To guard emigrants from falling into such errors, they should, immediately on arrival at Quebec, proceed to the Office of the Chief Agent for Emigrants, in Sault-au-Matelot-street, Lower To\^-n, where every in- formation requisite to their future guidance in either getting settlement on lands, or obtaining employment in Upper or Lower Canada, \>ill be obtained (gratis.) The following Directions are of importance to the Emigrant arriving in Canada, and are addressed to him in the simplest language. Previous to disembarkation, arrange your baggage in a small compass, the fewer packages the better, but have them well secured, — old dirty clothing, large boxes, and other useless articles, are not worth the carriage. If you have any provisions left, such as oatmeal, potatoes, to 6 4 to G 6 3 6 to 7 6 2 to 3 20 to 50 20 to 40 10 to 30 A great number of labourers are employed on board ships, and about timber-yards at Quebec and Montreal, who get from 3s. to 4s. 6d. a-day, and generally found. The extravagant habits engendered in such occupations, are decidedly in favour of the labouring emigrant proceed- ing immediately to the country. Emigrants with families, and who are possessed of from £20 to £25, are advised 172 APPENDIX. to push immediately into the woods, in the vicinity of old settlements, where they can obtain provisions for their spare labour. The difl&culties, although great at first, soon subside, and much experience is the result. The cost of clearing vn\d lands, and making it ready for crop, is from 50s. to 708. per acre in Upper Canada, and the Townships of Lower Canada. To these I should say, select a favourable spot for your log-house near a spring of water, or running stream, and where a cellar to keep your potatoes in winter can be dug under the house.* If you proceed to build houses and clear lands on a large scale on first arrival, it rarely suc- ceeds so well ; for the price of labour is so high, and the difficulty of getting persons to work, added to the great expense of providing food for increased numbers, until produced from your own land, ought in every instance to induce the strange emigrant and family to proceed cauti- ously in laying out their money ; but a crop of potatoes and fodder for a cow is the first object, and this may be accomplished the first year, if you arrive early. The second you will be enabled to feed your family with the necessaries of life, and the third year you may find your- self possessed of a yoke of oxen, a cow or two, and a year old calf, a couple of pigs, poultry, &c. abundance of pro- visions for your family, and fodder for your cattle. The Irish and Scotch peasantry know well how to value the economy of a milch cow ; every new settler ought to strive to obtain one as soon as possible, taking care to provide a sufficiency of fodder for the long winter. Cattle require a little salt in the Canadas. It is not considered necessary * Carefully clear the timber and brush to a distance from your dwelling and out buildings ; or, in the event of fire in the woods, great risk is incurred of their being destroyed. APPENDIX. 173 to go farther into the details of the first settlement, as on all these points you will be guided by your own observa- tion on the spot, and the advice you will get from the local agents and superintendents. Great caution is neces- sary in all your transactions. When you stand in need of advice, apply to the government agents, or other respect- able sources. You will find many plans and schemes offered to your consideration, on your route from Quebec to your destination in Upper Canada ; but turn away from them, unless you are well satisfied of the purity of the statements. Should you require to change your English money, go to the banks or some well known respectable person. The currency in the Canadas, is at the rate of 5s. to the dollar, and is called Halifax currency. The value of English gold, or silver, is regulated by the rate of exchange in England, which fluctuates. At present the gold sovereign is worth •23s. 6d. to 24s. currency. In New York 8s. is calculated for the dollar ; hence many are deceived when hearing of the rates of labour, &c. — 5s. in Canada, is equal to 8s. in New York ; thus, 8s. New York currency is equivalent to 5s, Halifax. In Upper Canada, and in the Townships of Lower Canada, the tenure of land is " Free and Common Soccage," as in England. In the Scigneurial or French parts of Lower Canada, the feudal or French tenure is the custom. In the Canadas you live under the British laws and constitu- tion, and are less incumbered with taxes or local imposts, than in any other country on tlie face of the globe. You ought, previous to leaving Quebec, to apply at the Post- office should you expect any letters, and if you are ^vriting to your friends in the United Kingdom by post, you must pay the postage ; so also when writing to the United i3 ) 74 APPENDIX. States. Letters from one part of the Canadas to the other do not require to be post-paid. Emigrants may forward letters to the United Kingdom from Quebec, by taking them to the keeper of the Merchant's Exchange, and pay- ing one penny for each. Having arranged all your business at Quebec, you will proceed without loss of time to Montreal, by steam-boat, on your route to Upper Canada. Two steam-boats ply daily to Montreal, 180 miles up the St. La\^Tence, which is performed in 24 or 30 hours. The fare for deck passen- gers, is 7s. 6d. for adults ; children under 12 years pay half-price, and under 7 one-third. These steam-boats be- long to private individuals. Government is in no manner connected with them. At Montreal you will find a govern- ment agent, who will advise you should you reqvure it. Routes to the principal places in Upper Canada, a&_ follows : — Quebec to Montreal, by steara-boats, . 7s. Gd. cost Montreal to Prescott, by Durham boats, . 6s. 3d. Prescott to Kingston, by steam, . . 5s. Od. Ditto to Coburgh, or Port Hope, . . 7s. 6d. Prescott to York, Capital of Upper Canada,! j^g Hamilton and Niagara, J From Niagara, you proceed by land to Fort Erie, op- posite Buffalo on Lake Erie, where steam-boats, or sailing schooners, will convey those destined to Port Talbot, or other parts of the London districts, or vicinity of Lake St. Clair. Persons going to settle on the lands of the Canada Company ^^'ill proceed to York or Burlington Bay head of Lake Ontario. At most of the preceding towns and landing places, you will find government agents. If you are bound to Perth or New Lanark, or the vicinity, disembark at Prescott ; APPENDIX. 175 or you may go via By- Town on the Ottawa. If for the thriving settlements in the Newcastle district, disembark at Coburgh or Port Hope, on Lake Ontario. Those going to the townships of Seymour may proceed from Kingston by the beautiful Bay of Quinte, to the mouth of the Trent River, from whence a road, distance 18 miles brings you to Seymour, If proceeding to the Home or Western districts, disembark at York, the Capital of Upper Canada. Emigrants going any where beyond York, will in general find it their interest to make it their route. If for the London districts, proceed by the Niagara frontier, to Lake Erie, and the Talbot Settlement. If for By- Town, Grenville, Hull, Horton, or other situations on the Ottaway River, proceed from Montreal, and Lachine, by the usual conveyances. Crown lands, of the most fertile quality, are prepared for the reception of emigrants in many parts of Upper Canada, and will be sold, payable by instalments. The following offices have been opened by the Commissioners of Crown Lands in Upper Canada, for the convenience of Emigrants : — In the Bathurst District, Mr. M'Naughton will open his office at By- Town. Major Campbell, of the Township of Seymour, for the Midland District. Mr. Ritchie for the Home District, and will reside in Sunnidale. Mr. Mount, Deputy- Surveyor, for the Western District, between Carradoc and the St. Clair. Emigrants may obtain employment for two or three months, on the roads, in several Townships, in the Western and Home Districts of Upper Canada. 176 APPENDIX. Routes to the principal settlements in Lower Canada, are as follows : — District of Quebec, south side of the River St. Law- rence. Township of Frampton, 36 miles from Quebec by Point Levy, a thriving settlement — inhabitants mostly Irish. To\vnships lying contiguous to the Kennebec road beyond Frampton, offer good prospect for settlement. The lands are principally private property. The seig- niory of St. Giles, 30 miles from Quebec, by St. Nicholas and the Craig's road, is favourably situated for emigrants, from its contiguity to the capital, and is increasing rapidly ; its population is principally Irish. New Argyle, in the seigniory of St. Croix, 8 miles from Richardson's Tavern, on the Craig's road in St. Giles, and 38 miles from Quebec ; the new road to the Township of Inverness passes through this settlement. Inhabitants principally Highlanders from the Island of Islay, and Irish. — The lands in this part are of good quality. The settlements of Ulster, Yorkshire, Dublin, and New Hamilton, commence four miles beyond New Argyle, and 42 miles from Quebec, and are situated in the flourishing Township of Inverness, through which a new road has been nearly finished to the borders of the Township of Halifax. The inhabitants of Inverness are from various parts of the United Kingdom. Those from England are principally from Yorkshire; those from Ireland, mostly from the northern counties ; and those from Scotland are chiefly Highlanders from the Island of Arran. Beyond Inver- ness lie the Townships of Halifax, Chester, and Tingwick, good lands for settlement ; but at present there is no con- venient road to them. The Township of Athabaska joins Inverness, and is a desirable place for settlement. APPENDIX. 177 The TowTiship of Leeds through which Craig's road passes, lies to the left of Inverness, is 50 miles from Que- bec, and is increasing rapidly in population. Inhabitants Scotch, Irish, and English. The Township of New Ireland, through which Craig'3 road also passes, lies beyond Leeds, 60 miles from Quebec, and is increasing much in population. The inhabitants are principally Irish and a number of English of the Wesleyan connexion, also about 25 American families from the United States. Craig's road leads to Shipton and Dudswell, but is im- passable for wheel-carriage transport beyond Ireland. From the Market-slip, in the Lower Town of Quebec, ferry-boats go daily as the tide suits to St. Nicholas, 12 miles up the river on the south side, where Craig's road begins. Eastern Townships of Lower Canada. The present route is via Three Rivers, 90 miles above Quebec, by steam boat, here cross the St. Lawrence to the south side, and proceed to Shcrbrooke, by Nicolet, La Bale, and Drummondville ; or you may proceed to Sorrel 40 miles above Three Rivers, on the south side of the St. LauTcnce, and there disembark. The rate of passage from Quebec by the steam-boat will be about the same as to stop at Three Rivers, and you will avoid the ferry. A good road leads from Sorrel to Sherbrook, by Yamaska and Drum- mondville. The distance from Quebec to Sherbrook in a straight line by the new road to Inverness, when finished, is 99 miles, and by Three Rivers or Sorrel ; the route to be taken for transport is IGO miles, of which 70 is land- carriage. Sherbrooke is the capital of the eastern Townships, 178 APPENDIX. and is surrounded by thriving settlements, particularly Stanstead, where industrious farming labourers or me- chanics are much wanted, and are sure (by good conduct) to do well ; as also the Townships of Stanbridge, Brome, Dunham, Potton, and the seigniory of St. Armand, the route to which is by St. John's. Chambly is 40 miles from Sorrel, and 18 from Montreal. Labourers may get employment at the canal now making at Chambly, Chateauguay, Godmanchester, and Shering- ton, from 25 to 40 miles from Montreal, south side of the St. Lawrence, are thriving situations. North side of the river St. Lavirence, and in the district and vicinity of Quebec, are the settlements of Beauport, Stoneham, Tewksbury, Valcartier, and Jacques Cartier, Deschambault, and the settlement of Portneuf. In- habitants principally Irish. Three Rivers and its vicinity, 90 miles from Quebec, give employment to many emigrants. In the rere of Berthier, 130 miles above Quebec, are the Townships of Brandon, Kilkenny, Rawdon, and Kildare. New Glasgow settlement, in the seigniory of Terre- bonne, is about 30 miles from Montreal. Persons bound for the Tovraships bordering on the Ottawa river, parti- cularly Lochaber, Templeton, Hull, &c. will take their route and departure from Montreal. There are many desirable situations for settlement belonging to private individuals in Upper and Lower Canada. The names of the proprietors or the agents may be had on application at this office. It is particularly recommended to emigrants to be ex- ceedingly cautious in ascertaining the titles to such lands as they may settle on. APPENDIX. 1^9 Recommendation for lands to the respective Township agents and superintendents, of settlements in Upper and Lower Canada, with routes, &c. will be furnished to emi- grants (gratis.) A. C. Buchanan, Chief Agent. £uiGR4NT Department, Quebec, \st May, 1832. FOR THE INFORMATION OF EMIGRANTS. Office of His Majesty s Chief Agent for the Superintendence of Emigrants in Upper and Lower Canada. Quebec, 1st June, 163i. Emigrants arriving at Quebec from the United Kin;?- dom, and who are desirous of settling in Upper Canada or Lower Canada, or of obtaining employment, are in- formed that all necessary information for their guidance may be obtained (gratis) on application at this office, be- tween the hours of 10 and 3 o'clock daily, Sundays ex- cepted. The principal situations in Upper Canada, where ar- rangements arc made for locating emigrants, are in the Bathurst, ^lewcastlc. Home, and Western Districts. Indigent emigrants, on condition of actual settlement, may obtain a location on the following terms, viz. Fifty acres of land ^^^ll be allotted to each head of a family, upon condition of paying at the rate of 5s. currency per acre. The first payment to be made at the expiration of three years, and the whole to be paid by annual instal- ments of £3. 2s. Cd, each, with interest, to commence from the expiration of three years. 180 APPENDIX. The government will incur the expense of building a small log-house for the temporary accommodation of set- tlers on their respective locations, and will afford some assistance towards opening roads to the lands proposed to be settled, but will make no advances in provisions or utensils, and the settlers must depend entirely upon their own resources for bringing their lands into cultivation. Settlers with means wll have opportunities of purchas- ing Crown Lands in several parts of the province at the public sales, due notice of which may be obtained on ap- plication at the Commissioner of Crown Lands' office, York, or to the following government agents : — Ottawa and ) ^^ M'Naughton, at Bytown. Bathurst District, J Newcastle District, Mr. M'Douall, Peterboro. Home District, Mr. Ritchie, Township of Medonto. Western District, Mr. Mount, Carrodoc and St. Clair. A. C. Buchanan, Chief Agent. •*i'* ■tMtmwn.-^'Tj).- O C3 O o o 03 o a Oh W C (U > bjo • • en o • ^H ^■^ (U ^ Xi o -d o OJ W o • v-H • ^H ^ 'O Ui C o o o ■»-> « w o u to o o I Ui *t O ^ biO m o i o -o a o 00 1) ^ -t-> j5 nJ OJ o ^ ^ o c:i< -M a bo CJ o o ■«-> OT ^ W G O T3 O O C/3 o -a •T-t c3 a u O < < U U W fe fe v ^ «v>n\»f«»§iTY or JBRARY CHAMPA! .u riioF. SURVEY UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS-URBANA 917.1EV15E C001 THE EMIGRANT'S DIRECTORY AND GUIDE TO OB 3 0112 025333045