A CONCISE ACCOUNT OF THE MODE OF INSTRUCTING IN NEEDLE- WORK, AS PRACTISED IN THE FEMALE MODEL SCHOOL, KILDARE PLACE, 4 JSuiltn* PRINTED BY THOMAS L WHITE, J4<), ABBEY STREET. MDCCCXXXIII. L D Sc CONTENTS. Introductory Observations . 1 "First CLAss^Paper 4 «v,Calico 5 FIRST Second CLAss^Sewing 5 nTTrTomxT ^ Third CLAss~Seaming — Hem Seam 6 DIVISION. 1 „R„n and fell Seam 6 I ^.Sew and fell Seam 7 L Fourth CLAss^Stitching 7 <;pm\rn f Fifth Class~ Overcasting Button-holes 8 \ SlXTH Class^ Gathering 9 DIVISION, j Seventh CLAss^Trimming and Tucking 10 (.Eighth CLAss^Marking 11 S' THIRD DIVISION. r Ninth Tenth Eleventh Twelfth CLAss~Mending — Darning 12 Darn resembling Stocking- web ... . 14 ^Grafting 14 ^.Repairing dropped stitches 15 ^.Patching 15 ^Fine-drawing 16 CLAss«.Making Flannel Articles, Shirts, Frocks, and other Clothing 16 CLASs^Knitting 20 ~,To knit a French Heel.. 20 ^,To knit Shawls 20 ^Double Knitting 21 ^.Elastic Knitting 21 ^.Insertion or Fringe Knitting 21 Scotch Knitting 22 CLAss~Platting, Rustic 22 ^Platting, Dunstable 23 ^Platting, Leghorn 23 ! Thirteenth Class~Mus1hi Work 23 FouRTEENTHCLAssu.Lace Work 23 Fifteenth CLAss~Worsted Work 23 Sixteenth CLAss~Thread Work 23 Directions for Cutting out Men’s Shirts 24 Scale for Cutting out Plain Shirts of different sizes 26 Directions for Cutting out Shifts 27 Scale for Cutting out Shifts of different sizes 28 Directions for Cutting out Frocks and for making Tucks 29 Scale for Cutting out Frocks of different sizes 30 Scale for Cutting out Flannel Petticoats of different sizes 31 Scale for Cutting out Boys’ Bibs, with sleeves, of different sizes 32 Scale for Cutting out Girls’ Bibs of different sizes 33 Scale for Cutting out Boys’ Caps of different sizes 34 Scale for Cutting out Caps, adapted for either Girls or Boys, of different sizes 35 Directions for Knitting Stockings 36 Scale of sizes for Stockings 38 Rules to be observed by the Scholars 39 M « INTRODUCTORY OBSERVATIONS. The many advantages derived to Females from imparting to them at an early age a competent knowledge of needle-work ? cutting out, and making articles of apparel, are so obvious, and so generally admitted, that it would be superfluous to insist upon them ; every means, therefore, which can tend to facilitate the progress of learners, or render the business of instruction more simple and less laborious to Teachers, may be considered as deserving of attention. To promote these important objects in Schools, one of the best means will be found to consist in a regular classification of the pupils according to their proficiency, advancing them successively, from class to class, only upon their executing an approved specimen of the work of each. Class lists of needle-work should be kept, and the name and progress of each child marked on them : by this arrangement, it is certain that every child who continues to attend the School must eventually become acquainted with all the different kinds of work taught, besides that the execution of each peculiar kind must be brought as nearly as possible to perfection, as advancement is made to depend upon that particular. By neglecting System in the teaching of needle-w ork, a possibility arises of some things being overlooked, and a danger that children will contrive to practise such works only as they are most capable of performing well, to the neglect of making new acquisitions, — as, even among grown persons, many may be found, who, from a certain indolence or carelessness of disposition, are content to remain ignorant of several things, of which a very trifling exertion would have put them in possession. In the Female Model School, Kildare Place, Dublin, the needle- work is arranged into four divisions, and each division is again subdivided into four classes, — each class being under the care of a distinct Monitress. 4 B 2 The whole of the classes and Monitresses are under the care and superintendence of a General Monitress of needle-work, whose duty it is to cut out and adjust, according to prescribed rules, the various materials for work which she receives from the Mistress, and upon which the scholars are to practise. The Class Monitresses are each provided with a basket, in which are placed the materials suited to the kinds of work taught in their respective classes, together with a pair of scissors, a furnished needle-book, thimbles, and coloured cotton, which, as it renders the stitches more conspicuous, is considered best for learners — - also, a model of the work, from which the children are to copy. The contents of each basket are taken account of, by the Moni- tress General of work, and the Class Monitresses are responsible for any loss. It is the duty of the Class Monitresses to give out those materials to the scholars, and to communicate, in the clear- est and most simple manner, all the information of which they are possessed. They should instruct them in the best mode of begin- ning, executing, and finishing the work, which they should con- stantly examine, — attend to, and supply their wants, — shew up such specimens as they judge fit for removal, — and try to promote their advancement by every means in their power, to which end ail their exertions should be directed. They should preserve silence, order, and regularity in their classes, report idleness or any other impropriety, but should never attempt to inflict punishment themselves. They should be per- fectly clean and neat in their persons, obliging and gentle in com- municating instruction, and should try to improve those under their care, as much by their own good example as by precept. The first qualifications of a good Monitress are integrity and uprightness of principle — where these are truly sincere, the conduct will be seldom found far wrong. Many children are per- haps unconscious, that, when they are lukewarm and indifferent in the discharge of their business, they are really acting dishonestly ; but there can be no doubt that it is dishonest to undertake any situation where trust and confidence are reposed in us, unless we be determined to fulfil the duties which it imposes on us to the very best of our ability. It will be evident also, that no Girl can be qualified to act well s as Monitress, who is not perfectly acquainted with the work which she undertakes to teach, since she cannot impart that which she does not know, nor can properly instruct others in matters which she does not sufficiently understand herself. To encourage deserving Monitresses, and to reward them for the care bestowed upon their classes, a certain number of Merit Tickets are given them, but if it appear that they have been negligent in the discharge of their duties — that their classes have been noisy or disorderly, or that they are deficient in the quantity of materials which have been entrusted to their care, they are deprived by fines of a proportion of the Tickets to which they would otherwise have been entitled. The tickets are paid them at the close of each week, as they act as Monitresses only one week at a time, by which means they are enabled to pursue their own improvement in their respective classes. Every new Scholar upon being admitted is tried in needle-work, and classed according to proficiency, and no child can be trans- ferred to a higher class until she has executed a perfect specimen of the work of the class to which she belongs. No child, in her progress through any particular class, can be permitted to execute any work carelessly, which she had learned to do perfectly in a preceding one — for example, in the stitching class a girl must sew the ends of the wrists, with as much care as she used when trying to be removed for sewing ; and so through each class. 4 DIRECTIONS FOR NEEDLE- WORK. The arrangement of the Needle-work into four divisions has been already noticed : each division comprises four classes, in which the pupils are placed according to their various proficiency. THE FIRST, or lowest DIVISION, includes the four follow- ing classes, viz. First Class — Hemming, Paper and Calico. Second Class— Sewing, Selvages and Edges. Third Class — Seaming, as hem-seam, run, fell, sew, and fell seams. Fourth Class — Stitching and Knotting. FIRST CLASS PAPER. Having received a needle, thread, and thimble, put the latter on the second finger of the right hand. Thread the needle ; when doing so, hold it in the lefty and the thread in the right hand. Fold down the hem once y of an equal width to the end. Then a second fold, the same width as the first. Hold the needle in the right hand, the work on the first finger of the left. Begin by pointing the needle from the chest, so that the end of the thread will be next you ; turn this under the hem. As you go on hem- ming, point the needle towards the chest. See Pattern in Speci- men Book, No. 1. Observation. — Pieces of paper, about three inches square are given to the children of this class, which they are instructed to hem as above. When the needle can be managed with tolerable expertness, the hem laid down straight, and the stitches set in equally, a child may be transferred to the second division of the hemming class, the only object in the use of paper, being the acquirement of the first principles at a trifling expense. Moni- tresses should be very particular, however, in teaching the chil- dren to hold the work and needle properly at the commencement, as much of the ease of their future progress will depend on their acquiring proper methods in the beginning. CALICO. See that the raw edge is cut even. Fold down the hem straight, twice — the second fold, the same width as the first. — When beginning, point the needle from, the chest, turn the end of the thread under the hem, let the end of the turn be neatly sewed ; as you go on hemming, point the needle towards the chest, hold the work firmly on the first finger of the left hand, set the stitches in short, and at equal distances — when the thread is nearly used, cut it, turn it under the hem, also the end of the fresh thread. When hemming square pieces, fold them like a half handkerchief, to try if the sides be of an equal length, and lay the hem down, first on one side y then on the opposite , next, on the ends y by which mode all the corners will be turned alike. — When hemming any thing bias , draw the hand tightly . It is not necessary to hem muslin so closely as cambric or linen ; the width of the hem should depend somewhat upon the texture or quality of the material, in general it may be allowed to consist of eight or nine threads. See specimen, No. 2. Observation. — Pieces of white and printed calico are given to the pupils in this class, to be hemmed agreeably to the foregoing rules, and two inches square will be found a convenient size. A yard of calico, 26 inches wide, may be cut in the following man- ner : divide it along the selvage into 13 strips — cut each of these strips into 18 parts, which will give 234 pieces, 2 inches square. The same quantity of white and printed calico will be required. For those just beginning, long strips about 2 inches wide answer very well, as they afford a good deal of practice in the stitch, without encountering corners, which, to very small children, are rather difficult. — A yard of calico, of the above width, will make 13 strips, each a yard long, which, being hemmed at both sides, will supply 20 yards of hemming. SECOND CLASS — SEWING. Place the two selvages, or edges, together — either tack them slightly, or pin, at short distances, to guard against puckering ; hold the work firmly and straightly between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, support it between the second and third 6 fingers, leave a short piece of the end of the thread, sew it over with the first few stitches, begin to sew at the side , not at the point of the finger — join in a fresh thread by leaving out a short piece, as at the commencement, which, with the end of the one you have been using, must lie on the top of the seam, and be carefully sewn over, to prevent ripping. In sewing the hems of napkins, or table-cloths, &c. &c. the ends of thread may be pressed into the seam, as they will not then appear on the other side. — The needle should be set in straightly towards the chest, not slant- ing, and the stitches just deep enough to keep the parts firmly together. — See specimen, No. 3. Observation. — The pieces which are hemmed by the scholars of the first class, are given to those in the second, to join by sewing. If the pieces be square, they are taught to join them in diamond pattern, placing two coloured ones at opposite angles, and two white in a similar manner, always beginning to sew these at the middle of the diamond. Long strips are sewn alternate, white and coloured; when several of these are joined, they may be cut across in breadths suitable for quilt borders, hemmed, and again sewn, which will afford an additional supply of work. If the first class should not supply a sufficient quantity of work, as will sometimes be the case, lay down hems on long strips, and have them sewn in the same manner as table linen. Monitresses should take care, that the sewing is on the same side as the hem- ming ; and that the ends of the strips are put exactly together. — They should also particularly attend to the manner of fastening in the thread, both at commencing, taking a new one, and fasten- ing off. THIRD CLASS — SEAMING HEM SEAM. The edges should be cut quite even — lay once down the raw edge of one piece, place the other piece upon it, a thread or two below the top, fold the former over the latter, (about the width of a hem,) and hem them firmly together. Take care to keep the edges together , as above directed. RUN AND FELL SEAM. Be careful that the edges are cut even, and that no loose ends of thread appear on them — lay once down the raw edge of one 7 piece, place the other piece upon it, a thread or two below the top ? run them together, about 8 or 9 threads below the turning, take up three threads on the needle, leave three down ; when joined in this manner to the end, lay the seam down very smoothly, and finish by hemming it — take care that no channel appear on the right side. In seaming shifts, put the needle back, over two threads at every second stitch, to give additional strength. See specimen, No. 4. Articles which have two selvages , should be run only 6 or 7 threads from the edge, and in the manner above directed. SEW AND FELL SEAM. Pare the edges, lay once down the raw edge of one piece, 5 or 6 threads from the top, fold do wn the edge of the other piece, double the width of the former, as it is to be turned back to form the hem, place them together, the turns inside — sew them together neatly, on the right side of the cloth, make the seam very flat and smooth, and hem on the wrong side. Observation. — Strips of white and coloured calico, four inches long, and about an inch wide, are given to the pupils in this class, which they are taught to join in the preceding manner. A yard of calico, 26 inches wide, may be cut into 26 strips, each of which will be 1 inch wide, and a yard long — cut each of these strips into 9 parts, so that the yard will give 234 pieces, 4 inches long, and 1 inch wide ; an equal proportion of white and printed calico will be necessary. It may be remarked, that the works of the pre- ceding classes, are appropriated to making patchwork quilts, which from the variety they generally exhibit, are among the most useful articles, to which the work of learners can be applied. The three kinds of seaming which have been described, form the work of one class. FOURTH CLASS — STITCHING. Fold the wrist, to see if it be even at the ends — lay down a fold to stitch to, 18 or 20 threads from the raw edge, count 12 or 14 threads from the doidde edge, and draw one — stitch on that line, pass the needle in at the wrong side, between the double of the cloth, bring it out on the line where you should begin — the 8 :**’*!• stitch is formed by putting the needle back aver two threads, and passing it under two before, then draw — when the thread is nearly used, bring the needle out on the wrong side, fasten it, as also the fresh thread, and pare off the ends, finish one row ; if the other side of the wristband have a raw edge, turn it down , fold the wrist exactly in the middle, draw a thread, at the same distance from the edge, as on the opposite side — then sew both ends, keep- ing the right side of the wristband next you, and stitch the top line. The collar of a shirt should be prepared and finished in the same manner. See specimen, No. 5. Observation. — Pieces of white calico, 3^ inches in length, and inch wide, (when doubled,) are given to the children of this class, who are taught to stitch them conformably to the preceding rules. To afford an additional supply of work, threads are drawn at equal distances through the entire wristband, which is then closely stitched. Knotting is taught on the spaces between the rows. A yard of calico, 26 inches wide, will make 100 wrists of the size stated, 10 inches in the length, and 10 in the breadth, (one inch will remain in the latter, which may be cut and given to the third class.) Before a child can be removed from this class, it is necessary that she execute perfectly , a wrist of finer material than the com- mon calico ; and, as an encouragement, she may be permitted to choose the colour of the silk, with which it is to be stitched. THE SECOND DIVISION Consists of the four following Classes, viz. Fifth Class — Overcasting. Sixth Class — Gathering, and stocking in Gathers. Seventh Class — Trimming and Tucking. Eighth Class — Marking, on Canvas, Bolton, and Muslin. FIFTH CLASS — OVERCASTING — BUTTON-HOLES. Button-holes should be cut of such a length as will reach across the button for which they are intended, and are easily cut, either with a chisel or scissors. Cut them exactly by a thread, place the 9 work, with the button-hole lying lengthways along the first finger of the left hand ; begin on the side next the thumb, and work towards the point of the finger ; put the needle in at the wrong side, and bring it out four or five threads down on the right — fasten by working in the end of the thread with the first few stitches. If a fresh thread be required, fasten the former neatly on the wrong side ; pass the needle with the fresh thread between the double of the cloth, and through the last loop of the head to connect the work, keeping the end of the thread firmly under the thumb, to prevent its drawing, and go on as before — the head is formed by passing the needle through the loop of the thread, before it is drawn close; this should be kept quite even, one thread only should lie betiveen the stitches — take care not to turn the corners too soon ; bar the ends to strengthen ; set the stitches in exactly by a thread. See specimen, No. 6. Observation. — Double pieces of white calico, 3 inches in length, and 2^ inches in width, are given to the learners in this class, who are instructed to fold in the raw edges, tack them slightly together, to keep them even, and then to work round the entire edge in button-hole stitch, to which this plan will be found to accustom them. Button-holes are then cut, (only as they are wanted,) in straight lines, through the entire, and about half an inch distant from each other; these are wrought agreeably to the above directions. A yard of calico, 26 inches wide, will make 60 pieces of the size mentioned, 12 in the length, and 5 in the breadth. SIXTH CLASS GATHERING. Observe that the part you are going to gather be cut quite even; divide it into halves or quarters, make a mark at each, with a bit of thread; lay down a fold 12 or 14 threads from the edge; crease it, turn it back as at first, this will guide you to run straightly, as drawing a thread is improper — put a knot on the thread, begin on the right side, take up two threads on the needle, and leave three down, (unless the article be very full, in which case, more threads may be missed.) Do about a finger length before draw- ing the gathering thread ; when all is gathered, draw the fulness c 10 pretty close, secure the thread by twisting it round a pin, draw the gathers straight , trace them down carefully, one at a time, so as not to injure the material ; remove the pin, and open the gathers to the size of the article to which it is to be joined, which must be also halved, quartered, and pinned to the corresponding parts of the gathered piece — fasten the gathering thread by twisting it round a pin ; hold the work with the gathers lying easily across the first and second fingers of the left-hand, nearly from left to right ; begin at the side farthest from you, and set in the first stitches very neatly and firmly ; point the needle almost along the gathers, take up but one gather at a time, there should be a stitch to every gather. In setting on the wrong side, be careful not to bring it down lower than the stitches on the right side. See spe- cimen, No. 7. Observation. — Pieces of calico, 3 inches deep, and 10^ wide, are given to the scholars of this class. If the sides have raw edges, they are directed to hem them first , then divide equally, gather and stock in (as already described,) to the wrists which had been stitched in the fourth class. Before removal, each child is supplied with muslin both for wrists and stocks, and she should be capable of finishing a very neat specimen, to entitle her to be transferred to the succeeding class ; these fine patterns are always wrought with silk of different colours. A yard of calico will supply 24 middle pieces, 2 inches in the breadth, and 12 in the length; and \ yard of muslin, of the width called yard and quarter, will make 6 middle pieces, 2 inches in the width, and 3 in the length. The strip which comes off the breadth will make 8 pair of wrists, 8 inches in breadth, and 2 in length. SEVENTH CLASS — TRIMMING AND TUCKING. Frills, or flounces, are generally allowed three times the length of the article to which they are sewn. Cut the frill perfectly even, and hem it very neatly, divide it into halves or quarters, making a mark at each. To form the whip, roll in the raw edge of the muslin very tightly, with the thumb upon the fore-finger of the left-hand, 8 or 10 threads deep ; put the needle in on the right side, pointing towards the chest ; bring it out on the wrong 11 side, this forms the stitch ; take the stitches very even, and at such distances as to draw easily, draw the gathering thread at every two inches — if the gathering thread break, or be not long enough to whip all the work, take a fresh one at the half, or quarter only ; draw in the fulness to the width of the article to which it is to be joined ; pin the halves and quarters of each toge- ther, and regulate the fulness equally; fasten the gathering thread by twisting it round a pin ; in sewing on, keep the frill next you, take up every whip, hold the needle rather aslant, that the thread may lie between the whips. See specimen, No. 8. Observation. — To the pupils of this class, pieces of muslin are given 3J inches in length, and 3 in width, for the purpose of teaching them to make tucks. They are instructed first to hem these neatly, when hemmed, to fold them in the middle, to lay down a tuck 10 or 12 threads wide, to crease down the tuck, and to run it to the end by a thread, next fold at the quarters, to mark down a tuck at each, the same width as the first, and to run them by a thread in a similar manner — frills three quarters of an inch wide, and three times the length of the tucked piece (the four sides inclusive) are hemmed, whipped, and sewn on it, agree- ably to the foregoing directions, and for the purpose of teaching these works. EIGHTH CLASS MARKING. To form the true marking stitch, the needle must be passed in three ways before the stitch is perfect ; to acquire facility in it, two or three rows should be worked before attempting to form the letters, leaving four threads between the first row, and the hem of the sampler, and eighteen between each successive row. To form the stitch, take two threads each way, put the needle in at the upper corner of these, and bring it out aslant , at the lower corner ; make the next stitch straight towards you, then set in one across , this completes the stitch. Every letter or figure should be begun separately, and fastened by leaving out a little of the end of the thread at the right side of the cloth, which should be worked in with the two first stitches — fasten off neatly and firmly, and cut off the thread on the wrong side ; leave two or four threads 12 between each letter, according to the quality of the article which is being marked. In shirts, cravats, or house-linen, 8 or 10 threads should be left. Hem-stitch and veining may be taught by means of sampler hems. See specimen, No. 9. Observation. — This work is taught first on coarse canvass, with coloured cotton, and afterwards on bolton and muslin. It is judged better to make the sampler of a small size, viz. about 8 inches long, and 6 wide ; and if necessary, give a succession of these, rather than spoil a large piece of canvass, by handling before one half is worked. The straight letters, being of the most sim- ple form, are first taught, next the slanting, and lastly the round. A sampler of the size mentioned will be found sufficiently large to contain these, and giving a new one, (on which the capital letters in their regular order, together with the small alphabet and figures, from 1 to 10, may be marked,) will be found an encou- ragement ; when these can be well done, one of bolton is given, which should be worked with silk. With the eighth class the second division terminates — and, it is expected, that, on quitting this class, a child should be capable of executing any piece of plain-work. THIRD DIVISION. Ninth Class Mending, (comprising Darning, Grafting, Patch- ing, and Finedrawing.) Tenth Class Making (Flannel- work, Buttons, Shirts, and various other useful articles.) EleventhClass — Knitting (Plain, Fancy, and Scotch stitches.) Twelfth Class — Plaitting (Rustic, Dunstable, and Leghorn.) NINTH CLASS — MENDING. Darning. — Never begin to darn exactly at the hole, but 10 or 12 threads beyond it, or as far as it is thin, and laying a piece of card or firm paper under it, will be found useful. Hold the work firmly, across the first and second fingers of the left-hand. Begin by pointing the needle from you, take up and leave down a thread 13 alternately ; finish one line, point the needle towards the chest, darn to you, taking up the threads you left before ; leave a loop of thread at the end of each row ; when the hole is filled up one way, cross it, for which purpose, in plain darns, begin at the middle , and finish to one end. Begin again at the middle, and finish to the other end, and take up and leave down a thread alter- nately — one row should lie to each thread of the cloth. Table- linen should be darned in diaper pattern — stockings should be run straight along each row of the stocking, as far as is necessary, taking up one loop on the needle, and missing two, and keeping as many stitches on the needle as it will hold, until the row is completed. Observation. — To teach darning, pieces of canvass 3J inches square, are given to the pupils in this class ; these are hemmed round even to a thread, and darned with coloured cotton, by first tracing 9 or 10 threads beyond the ground of the darn, which latter is formed by passing the needle over a certain number of threads, to the size to which it is proposed to make the darn. — When an equal number of threads have been left each way, so as to make the ground square, it is crossed, the ground being of one colour, and the crossing of a different one. Plain darning is first taught, then the most simple diaper pattern, and so progressively through the entire. When they are familiar with the different patterns, and are capable of executing them with neatness, they are permitted the use of silk of different colours. Half a yard of canvass, of the usual width, 18 inches, will make 25 pieces for darning, 5 in the width, and 5 in the length. It is hoped that the models of the different diaper darns, see plates, No. 1 & 2, will be found useful to the learners of those works. The scale consists of thirty-one threads, but may of course, be extended to any number required. See specimens, No. 10, 11, 12, & 13. The thin lines denote the warp, and the dotted lines the weft, the little mark (X) shews the threads which are to be taken up when crossing. 14 A DARN WHICH EXACTLY RESEMBLES STOCKING-WEB. When the warp is laid, hold the darn across the fingers in the usual manner, that is, with the threads lying straight opposite you. It is immaterial at which side the crossing is begun, only ob- serve the following directions. — When begun at the side next the right hand, put the needle in between the first and second threads of the warp, pass it under the first, (point to the right) draw the stitch, hut not very tightly , then put it between the second and third threads, under the second, (pointed to the rights) draw the stitch as before, then between the third and fourth threads, under the third, and draw, and so on, under each successive thread to the end of the row. Begin the next row at the left hand side, for which purpose, put the needle in between the first and second threads, under the first, (pointed to the left, ) draw the stitch, then between the second and third threads, under the second, pointed as before, and draw the stitch ; continue in this manner, back and forward, through each row, until the ehtire is filled up. To darn stockings in this way, the warp should be laid across , from left to right. TO GRAFT STOCKINGS. Hold the parts which are to be joined, lengthways over the fore-finger of the left hand — take care that the loops are even — fasten the thread on the wrong side, in the manner of darning — take the two loops which are next each other on the needle, draw the thread through them ; take two in a similar manner on the opposite side, making the last loop which was taken on either side, the first of the next stitch — grafting may also be done on the wrong side. Hold the parts which are to be joined in the manner of sewing , with the loops together, and the wrong side outwards ; point the needle from you, and pass it through the two loops which lie opposite each other on each side ; draw the thread through them, then point it to you, and take up the loop which lies next the thread, on the side farthest from you, and pass it a second time through the one next you — take up a fresh loop on this side, and pass the needle again through the former ; continue in this manner to the end, taking up a fresh loop on each side alternately. See specimen, No. 14. 15 Observation. — Pieces of stocking web, about 8 inches square, are furnished to the learners of this work, a small piece is taken out of the middle, an inch and half square, the sides of which are cut along the bar of the web, and the ends carefully ripped , — Another bit of web, of exactly the same length is given, but a little wider> so as to allow for turning in. The piece is then grafted in at the ends, (as described,) and the sides are joined by sewing exactly along the bar on the wrong side. The pieces are grafted in, with coloured cotton. TO MEND A HOLE IN A STOCKING CAUSED BY THE DROPPING OP A STITCH. Put your hand into the stocking, keep the ladder next you, over the fore-finger of the left hand, put the needle into the loop or stitch which has fallen, with the point towards you, hold the end of the thread under the thumb, and pass the needle under the first bar of the ladder ; next, pass the eye of the needle pointing from you, upwards through the loop, then draw the bar through the loop with the thread, both ends of which, hold tight between the thumb and finger for that purpose. Continue this method until the entire of the ladder is filled up, and fasten the last loop as in grafting. PATCHING. When an article requires to have a patch set in, take care to cut the piece with which it is to be repaired exactly by a thread, and sufficiently large to cover the decayed part as far as it is thin ; lay down the raw edges of the patch exactly by a thread, place it on the decayed part by a thread also, and on the right side, tack it on slightly, to keep it in its place, and if it be a striped or coloured article, care must be taken before cutting the patch, to arrange each, so as to make the stripes or pattern agree. Sew them neatly together, on the right side, turn the article, and cut out the decayed part, leaving, however, sufficient to form the hem — make the seam very flat and smooth, nick it a little at the four corners, to make the hem sit neatly at those parts, turn in the raw edge, and hem. The patch may also be set in by half- backstitch, and then hemmed, in this latter way the seams will all appear on the wrong side. See specimen, No. 15. 16 Observation. — Pieces of calico, about 3 inches square, are given for the purpose of teaching this very useful branch of repair ; when hemmed, a square piece is cut out of the centre, at the dis- tance of half an inch from the edge, equally on the four sides — another piece of somewhat larger dimensions, (to allow for turning in) is then given, which is set in as already described.— Striped, or coloured calico, of a small pattern, seems to he best suited to this work, as it affords opportunity for the exercise of precision and neatness, in making the stripes or patterns agree. FINE-DRAWING CLOTH. Pare the edges perfectly even, hold the two parts which are to be joined lengthways on the first finger of the left hand — knot the end of the thread, pass the needle through the edge of one piece, pointing from you, draw then through the edge of the other piece, pointing to you, and so on, taking a stitch on each side, alternately. Draw the stitches closely together, but the edges must not overlap. The stitches should be set in, at half the depth of the cloth, and so as to join the parts firmly, but should not appear on the right side. See specimen, No. 16. Observation. — Small bits of cloth of different colours, and angular shapes, are furnished to the learners of this work. They are instructed to join them conformably to the foregoing direc- tions. TENTH CLASS. FLANNEL ARTICLES, &C. In making up articles of flannel, a knowledge of herring-bone stitch is requisite. — To acquire this knowledge, small pieces of muslin are given to the pupils in this class, upon which they first practise the stitch. When they can do this perfectly, they are given two small bits of flannel, which they are taught to join, and afterwards to herring-bone all round. MUSLIN, HERRING-BONE. Turn down a fold, 20 or 22 threads from the raw edge, then draw two threads, about 12 or 14 threads asunder, and 3 or 4 from the double edge. This should be done on each of the four 11 sides — next fold the piece in the middle , and draw two threads at 6 or 7 threads distance from it on each side, and so as to leave 12 or 14 between ; then fold at the quarters, draw threads at each in a similar manner, and herring-bone as follows. Put the needle in on the wrong side, bring it out on the right, then put it back from you, 4 threads on one line, and 4 threads back on the other line, and so on, this will form the herring-bone stitch. See specimens, Nos. 17 & 18. Observation. — The pieces of muslin, given for the purpose of practising this stitch, are about 4 inches in length, and 3 inches in width, and the bits of flannel are each 1^ inches wide, and 3^ inches long. BUTTONS. Cut two round bits of calico, or muslin, (the size of these must be determined by the size to which it is intended to make the buttons,) gather each, separately , round the edge, and put into them a layer or two of the same material, to give them firmness. Draw the gathers closely, and make them even at the edge ; place them one over the other, the gathered parts inside, tack them slightly, to keep them even, work them round the edge in button- hole stitch ; in doing this, it will be found better to put the needle in on the right side. A small star should be worked in the middle. Buttons may be also made by rolling soft white cotton on the ends of a small pointed scissors, in the shape of a cone, wide at the bottom, and tapering towards the top — when it is of the size you wish, take it off carefully, hold it between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, and work it over in button-hole stitch, with fine thread or cotton, always bringing the needle out through the middle of the button. MAKING. The scholars having, in their progress through the preceding classes, learned to execute the various kinds of work which are comprised in a shirt, are in this class instructed in the manner of putting one together; a shirt being considered the most perfect D 18 piece of plain-work, and comprehending in it all the different sorts of work which they have already learned. They are also taught to cut out, and make up various other articles of apparel, such as frocks, chemises, petticoats, &c. &c. HEART-BIT. Before commencing the shirt, small pieces of muslin are given to each girl, for the purpose of learning to settle in, and work the breast-gusset. The pieces are 3^ inches deep, and 3f inches wide ; these are first stitched and knotted round, then cut down the middle, about If inches (or half the depth ,) arid a small gusset, set in, in the manner that breasts of shirts are usually done. See specimen, No. 19. The pupils are then supplied with pieces of muslin, 7 inches in length, and 5J inches in width, and suitable trimmings, for the purpose of learning to make a shirt ; and as this may be considered a finishing class, there is no Monitress, but it comes under the immediate care and superintendence of the Mistress, who instructs the pupils in the proper arrangement, mode of executing, and proportioning the different parts to each other, and finally? in cutting out. See specimen, No. 20. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A SHIRT. In a trimmed shirt there hre twenty separate parts, in a plain one, nineteen, — namely, the body, two sleeves, two wristbands, two sleeve-gussets, two sleeve-binders, two shoulder-straps, two neck-gussets, a collar, two side-gussets, two wrist-gussets, a gusset for the breast, and, if trimmed, the frill. The parts which require stitching, should be done first. Fold the body across at the middle, so as to form back and front, then divide it into three equal parts — one third part is for the arm to pass through, the second for the seam at the side, and the third to remain open at the tail. Before sewing the side-seams, tack on the sleeve-binders — and if they have selvages, place them next the sleeve. Sew the side-seams, in shirts they should be on the right side, therefore, let the hem at the ends be on the contrary side. Next put in the side gussets, then fold the body in two, (placing the selvages together,) and cut down at the centre to form the 19 opening* at the breast, — in a man’s shirt, the breast is generally five nails in length — in a smaller one, it should be proportioned to the size, rather more than a third part of the length of the body. Hem the breast, and set in the gusset. The neck gussets should next be put in, for which purpose, place the straight part of the neck gusset on the shoulder-strap, and pin the strap on the shoul- der of the shirt, in the usual manner — this will shew how far it is necessary to cut the shirt at the neck. Then cut along the top of the shirt, transversely at each side of the breast, so far only as the angle of the gusset. Sew, or stitch in the neck-gussets — the seams and the raw edges should be on the right side. Turn down a fold on each side of the shoulder-strap, and draw threads for the stitching, five or six threads from the double edge. Then fold the strap in the middle, half wrong side outwards, and tack it slightly on the shoulder of the shirt, open it again and cut it in the middle, at the end which is to be next the collar, nearly to the angle of the neck-gusset. When cut, separate the parts, and place one of them on each side of the neck-gusset, over the seam, herring-bone the strap slightly, from side to side, to keep it in its place, and settle the other strap in the same manner — stitch on the shoulder-straps, turn in the raw edges where the straps were divided, and stitch them down in the same manner as the other parts. Next hem down the sleeve-binders, and finish them across at the ends, divide and gather the neck, according to rule, (a small slope should be taken out at the breast in front.) — If the gathering thread break, take a fresh one at the half, or quarters only — white silk answers best for gathering the neck — then set on the collar. The sleeves should now be prepared, let them be first hemmed at the wrist- openings, the length of the open part should be equal to half the length of the wristband — gather the sleeves, and set on the wristbands conformably to rule, either stitch and fell, or sew and fell in the sleeve-gussets, and join up the sleeves, then put in the wrist-gussets. Gather the tops of the sleeves, and set them in. Next work the button- holes, they should be cut in the left side of the collar and breast, and in that part of the wristband which lies at the back of the hand. Sew on the buttons, then mark, on the front of the shirt, over the right side gusset. The hem at the breast, and the shoul- 20 der-straps, should be set in without gathers— and the shoulder- straps both at the collar, and where they are divided at the point of the neck -gusset, should be overcast in button-hole stitch. ELEVENTH CLASS — KNITTING. All the scholars are taught to knit, with the exception of those who compose the first and second classes of needle- work, who, from their age and size, are generally incapable of managing this sort of work sufficiently well, to render their learning it profita- ble. The other classes knit, each in succession, one day in the week, according to the following arrangement. 3 Class, 4 Class, 5 Class, 6 & 7 Classes, 8 & 9 Classes, 1 0 Class, On Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday. The Monitress supplies each of the children, with a small ball of worsted, and two knitting needles. She then teaches them how to cast on the stitches, and they practise by first knitting square pieces, consisting of about 36 stitches. When they have acquired some degree of expertness in the management of the needles, and can knit with a tolerably good grain, they are taught to knit stockings, children’s boots, night-caps, &c. &c. See spe- cimen, No. 21. Observation. — The pieces which are produced by the learners when of a suitable size, are taken off the needles, by casting one loop over another, until they are all taken off, then sew up the piece neatly, and, if liked, fringe it ; they may be converted into wrist warmers, and given as premiums, either to those who knit them, or to others. They might be also made into cradle blankets, by joining several of them neatly. TO KNIT A FRENCH HEEL. Knit the nine middle stitches of the heel in rows , like the re- mainder, taking up one of the other stitches, with the last stitch of every row, until all are taken off — when this heel is finished nine stitches remain, this number is calculated for a large stocking. TO KNIT SHAWLS, OR NECK-WARMERS. Cast on stitches to the size you wish to make the article, observing only to have an odd number. Knit the first row plain, 21 take off the first stitch on each end plain, knit in rows back and forward, like a garter — to form the pattern, turn the thread in between the two needles, so as to be next you, and knit two stitches together into one, turn in the thread between the needles again, and knit two stitches as before — finish one row in this way, turn the knitting, take off the first stitch plain, turn the thread in between the needles at every stitch, and knit two toge- ther into one, continue each row in this way, to the end. Diffe- rent colours may be set in, and shaded in stripes. Knitting one •plain round between each row, (such as above described,) will alter the appearance, and give another very good pattern. DOUBLE KNITTING. Fit for Blankets , or Under Petticoats . Cast on stitches to the size required, take off the first stitch without knitting, then turn the thread in towards you, in the same manner as for a turn stitch at the seam of a stocking, and take off the next stitch, but without knitting it — turn the thread back from you, and knit the succeeding stitch, bring the thread in toivards you again, and take off one without knitting, turn it back from you, and knit the next stitch, continue in this manner to the end of one row — turn the knitting, as for a garter, and knit every second stitch as before, only observing to pass over those stitches which had been knit at the other side. Another kind more elastic . Cast on the stitches, and take the first off plain, turn in the thread next you, and take off the next stitch without knitting, as in the preceding description, then keeping the thread still next you, knit the two succeeding stitches together into one, turn in the thread next you again, and take off a stitch without knitting, keep the thread still next you, and knit the two next stitches together into one — proceed in this manner through each successive row, backward and forward like a garter. This knitting will be ribbed. Cast on an odd stitch. Knitting which will answer either for Insertion or Fringe . Cast on six, eight, or ten loops, in proportion to the width you 22 require. Before you begin to knit, turn the thread, with which you are to knit round over the right hand needle, so as to form a loop on it, then knit the two first loops off the left hand needle into one. (They should be knit together exactly in the same manner, as a turn stitch at the seam of a stocking.) Turn the thread round the needle again, and knit the two next loops toge- ther into one, in the same manner as the former, turn the thread round the needle between every two loops you knit together, which both widens and narrows, and, at the end of every row, turn the thread round the right hand needle, before you begin the succeeding one — continue each successive row in this manner. — To convert this Knitting into Fringe, draw the stitches one out of the other, (beginning with the stitch which it was first cast on,) to half of the entire depth, or more if liked ; the part not ripped , makes a handsome head or top for the Fringe. SCOTCH KNITTING. Take one end of the thread in the left hand, and with the right place the other part of the thread over it in the manner of a loop, draw the thread through the loop, like a chain, and make as many of these as you require stitches — they should be drawn pretty close, and appear like chain-stitch, knit the first and last stitch together to join them. This sort of knitting is done with one needle only, which has a hook on the end, and there is never more than one stitch on the needle at a time. Put the needle through the side of the loop which is next you, put the thread over the hook, and draw it through the loop, continue in this manner through each successive loop, round and round, until finished. To widen, knit 2 stitches in one loop — to narrow, put the needle into two loops, and knit them as one. The ends of night caps, or tops of children’s boots, may be bordered by taking up the loop on the side furthest from you. TWELFTH CLASS — PLAITTING. (Rustic.) Fasten 4 straws, turn the outside straw on the right hand, under one, and over one, turn the next outside straw on the same side, straight from right to left , under the two middle ones, and over the outside — then turn this straw from the left side, under 23 one, and over one — turn the next straw on the same side, straight across, from left to right , under the two middle straws, and over the outside one, continue in this manner, turning twice on each side. Fresh straw should always be joined in at the right hand. plaitting. ( Dunstable .) Take seven straws, fasten them, keep four on one side, and three on the other, turn the outside 4th straw, under one straw, and over two — then, on the other side, turn the outside straw under one, and over two, and so, on each alternate side. plaitting. (Leghorn.) Take 13 straws, tie them together, keep 7 to the right hand, and 6 to the left, turn the straw next the right hand, back under two straws, over two, and under two. Then on the left side, turn the outside straw, under two, over two, and binder two, continue so, on each side alternately. Observations. — A selection is made of scholars from different classes, who are taught to plait straw on one day in each week. The joining in of straws, should be in the centre of the plait. FOURTH DIVISION. Thirteenth Class — Muslin work. Fourteenth Class — Lace work. Fifteenth Class — Worsted work. Sixteenth Class — Thread work. Such girls of the tenth class, as are most distinguished for attention and neatness in executing plain-work, and to whom the works of the Fourth Division are most likely to be useful, are, by way of reward and encouragement, selected on particular days in each week, at the discretion of the Teacher, and taught the various works comprehended under the foregoing terms. 24 DIRECTIONS TOR CUTTING OUT MEN’S SHIRTS. A piece of linen twenty-six yards long, will, unless the person be very tall,) make eight shirts : they may be cut by the follow- ing directions. (The linen should be yard wide.) 1st. Cut off seventeen yards for the eight shirt bodies, divide this into eight equal parts, each of which will be about two yards and half- quarter long. 2dly. Cut off five yards, and half a quarter, for eight pair of sleeves, divide it into eight breadths, each breadth will make one pair of sleeves, half yard wide, and about twenty inches long. 3dly. Cut off one yard. This will make six collars, half a yard long, so that the length of two will cut out of the length of the cloth, and the width of three out of the width of the cloth. 4thly. Cut off twelve inches. For six pair of sleeve-gussets, six inches square, so that there will be two in the length, and six in the width of the cloth. 5thly. Cut off half a yard. Which will make six pair of wrist- bands, nine inches long, and six inches wide, as there will be two in the length, and six in the width of the cloth. 6thly. Cut off ten inches and half. For six pair of shoulder- straps, they should be three inches wide, thus twelve may be cut from the width of the cloth. 7thly. Cut off half a yard, and three nails. This will make six pair of sleeve-binders, each three inches wide, so that twelve will cut out of the width of the cloth. 8thly. Cut off a breadth nine inches long. For neck and side gussets, both may be of the same size, namely, four and half inches square, so that two may be cut out of the length, and eight out of the width of the cloth, there will be sixteen square pieces — each square folded like a half handkerchief, and cut across into two parts, will make a pair of either kind. The six- teen pieces will answer for eight shirts. One yard will remain, out of which cut the pieces wanting to complete the eight shirts — namely, two collars, two pair of wrist- bands, two pair of sleeve-binders, two pair of shoulder-straps, and two pair of sleeve-gussets. Cut them by the annexed example. 25 It should be observed, that these calculations exceed the quan- tity of 26 yards, by about 6 inches : but most pieces really measure somewhat more than they are stated to contain, so that it is hoped the scale will be found to answer. Besides, in most cases, the collars need not be more than three half-quarters and nail in length ; so that half a quarter less would answer for the six first-mentioned, which would make the calculation quite exact. Instead of specifying the particular width of the material to be used in making up any of the Articles included in the following Tables, it has been thought more useful to lay down general rules, exactly suited to the respective sizes, and which can be applied equally to materials of any width. E 26 27 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT SHIFTS. Shifts may be cut three different ways — 1st. Sew two breadths of linen together, like a bag, and pin the seams together exactly ; then fold the shift across, so that, when folded, one side will be narrow, and the other wide, (in such proportion to the width of the entire as may be seen by reference to the following scale ;) set in a pin, and do the same at the opposite end in a contrary direction ; crease the linen down diagonally, and cut from one mark to the other. 2ndly. Arrange the width at the shoulder, and, before sewing , take off a gore, on one side, the full length of the shift, and sew it on to the other side. 3dly. Arrange the width at the shoulder, and take off a gore on each side at the top, down one half of the entire length, and sloped to a point ; sew these gores on at bottom : in this latter way, no seams will be necessary on the shoulders. Three shifts, large enough for most persons, may be cut out of five breadths of ^ or yard-wide linen, sewn together, and then folded back and forward into three equal parts : arrange the width of gores, and cut them diagonally, according to the directions given with the first example. 28 29 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT FROCKS, No exact directions can be given for the cutting out or making of frocks, as so much diversity prevails, both as to taste, shape, &c. therefore no attempt has been made to lay down rules for the bodies of the four largest sizes in the following scale, which is submitted rather as a guide than as a positive rule. The length must be always determined by the size of the child, and allowance made for tucking, so as to suit an increase of growth. The few following hints may, perhaps, be found useful to those who have not had much experience in cutting out. The sleeves, backs, and sides of coloured frocks, should be cut by placing the cloth double , the right sides together ; and they will answer for the opposite arms, sides, &c. &c. In printed articles, or where the two sides of the cloth are not exactly alike, — such as twilled stuffs, calicoes, &c., the gores cannot be cut one out of the other , as they will not answer for the opposite sides, unless two frocks be cut out at the same time. The gores of coloured cloth should be cut by folding the cloth in the middle selvages together ; then cut diagonally ; the pieces taken out of the middle will assist in making the body or sleeves, &c . DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TUCKS. When it is determined at what distance from the hem the tuck is to be placed, make a fold in the cloth, and set in a pin. Then place the edges of the hem exactly together, about two fingers distant, and make another fold, at the same distance from the edge as the former ; crease down the cloth from one mark to the other, and proceed in this manner until all is laid down, so that the fold may be exactly at an equal distance from the edge all round. Then lay down a double fold, the width of the tuck ; crease it down well, and turn it back again ; run it neatly along the line which was formed by the creasing down. 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A small slope to be taken out at the neck in front. ^ 33 34 i g. £ B & Runner. •saqaui p^aq aq* pnnoj uayojo « o% ui *as pura paaaq^S doj^ 00 d OD Crt d d B B - 00 **t~ 0 QD 05 K>N d d Odd w o *1 05 O ► d a> d N W 02 J Cap \ of the full size. 35 Front 6^ Inches. Runner. Runner. Runner. OOOO 0 0 0 0 o © o o H Co If 50 K+- >H>-< wf- o o o o o p o o CAPS, WHICH MAY BE WORN BY EITHER First. I Second. I Third. Fourth. 36 DIRECTIONS FOR KNITTING. When knitting socks, or stockings, cast on the loops equally on each of three needles, and knit them with a fourth ; one addi- tional loop should be cast on one needle, to form the seam at the back of the stocking. Knit the first round plain. Rib from six to ten rounds, or more, according to the size of the stocking, or the coarseness of the thread. The ribs are formed by knitting two or three stitches plain, and turning the same number, and their use is to keep the top of the stocking from curling down. To form turn-stitches, bring the thread in between the two needles with which you knit, so as to be next you, and put the needle into the loop on the right-hand side, instead of the left ; put the thread round it, and turn the stitch back from you — then reverse the thread to its usual place, and go on as at first. After the ribs, begin the seam — that is, turn a stitch every second round, at the middle of the needle, on which you left the odd stitch. If it be necessary in the course of the knitting, to fasten in a fresh thread, reverse the ends of the thread upon each other, and knit five or six stitches with the thread thus doubled. If a stitch drop, take it up with the right hand needle, put it on the left, then take up the loop at the back, put it on the left needle, and cast the stitch over it. A stocking should be as long, as twice the width of the top, before it is begun to be narrowed, (for very tall persons, perhaps, rather more,) therefore, knit as many rounds before narrowing, as there are stitches on the needles. To form the calf, narrow always at each side of the seam, and when narrowing at the right side of the seam, or at the right side of the instep, knit two stitches together into one ; at the left side of the seam, or the left side of the instep, take off a stitch without knitting ; knit the next stitch, and cast the former over the latter. Leave one stitch plain on each side of the seam, between it and the narrowings. Narrow always at a turned stitch ; knit five rounds plain between each narrowing, except the two last — between which an additional round or two may be left. 37 A. full sized stocking, should be reduced nearly one third for the ancle. A child’s not quite so much. The length of the ancle, after the narrowings, should be equal to one half of its width ; for example, if there were 28 loops on each side of three needles, making a total of 84 loops — 42 rounds should be knit. When about to raise the heel, divide the stitches in half, back and front, for the instep and the heel ; the seam stitch should be at the middle of the heel. Knit the heel in rows back and for- ward — every second row must be turned stitches, and the heel should be square before it is closed ; narrow four or five times at each side of the seam before closing the heel, to give it a little roundness. Close the heel, either in the manner directed for the French heel, or divide the stitches at the seam, half on each needle — place them together, and take the seam stitch on a spare needle ; take off a loop from each of the former, and knit them together into one, cast the first loop over the last, between every two you join, until all are knit off, and one loop only remains. — -f Take up the loops at each side of the heel on the second row, and ii widen at every third stitch, the second round. ^ Narrow at the / ll heel sides of the instep, every second round^ until the foot is the same width as the ancle. From the taking up of the loops at the heel, to the narrowing at the toe, should be at least as long as the top of the stocking is wide. Begin the toe, which may be closed in, two or three different ways, first ; divide the stitches in half, and narrow twice at each side, leaving two plain stitches between ; narrow twice, leaving three rounds between — twice, leaving two rounds — twice, leaving one — and then every round, until from sixteen to twenty stitches are left : then place the needles toge- ther, take a loop off each, and knit them together in the same manner, as directed, for the heel. Another mode of narrowing at the toe. — Narrow at the beginning and end of every needle, leaving five rounds plain between the first — then four rounds then three — two rounds twice — one plain round three or four times — and then every round, until all are off. Another way. — Narrow at the beginning of each needle — the next round, narrow at the end only — then again at the beginning only — and so on, succes- sively, until all are off. These rules being general, will answer for stockings of any size. 38 A SCALE OF SIZES FOR STOCKINGS. SIZES. 1 . 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Total number of Stitches 91 99 109 121 133 151 On each Needle 30,30,31 33,33,33 36,36,37 40,40,41 44,44,45 50,50,51 Rounds before narrowing.... 92 99 109 121 133 151 Narrowings in the leg 10 12 14 17 19 22 Stitches after narrowing 71 75 81 87 95 107 Number of rounds from 1 35 37 40 43 47 53 narrowing to the heel... j 1 Stitches for heel 35 37 41 43 47 53 Stitches for instep. 36 38 40 44 48 54 Rows in the heel 36 38 40 44 48 54 Stitches taken up on each side 18 19 20 22 24 27 Stitches widened 9 9 10 11 12 13 Total on each instep needle., .. 27 , 28 30 33 36 40 Narrowings at each instep.., •• 10 10 10 12 13 14 Rounds from taking up the loops at heel, to the nar- 46 49 54 60 66 75 rowing at the toe _ All the proportions in this Table are for worsted, and rather coarse needles. MODEL SCHOOL, KILDARE PLACE, DUBLIN. The Children are to pay attention to the following Rules : — To go to and from School, in an orderly manner. To be silent in School. To be obedient to Monitors. To avoid quarrelling and bad words. To obey the instructions of Parents and Friends. To avoid bad company — for, Evil communications corrupt good manners. And To speak the Truth. THE PARENTS OR FRIENDS Are required to see that the Children attend School with hands and face clean, hair combed, clothes and shoes brushed. That they punctually attend at the appointed hour, as late attendance occasions a certain loss of time, and consequently of improvement. They are also to see that the Children bring with them their cutters, needles, thimbles, and other necessaries. When detained either by sickness, or any other cause, they are to send notice thereof to the School. *** School-hours from Ten till Three. Specimens of Needle-work executed in the Female Model School, corresponding with the foregoing details, may be had at the Depository, Kildare Place, price 5s. 6d. Spec i me w s Plate 1. IN? lO. IN? 11. Engraved by J.KLrkwood