HAND-BOOK OF ROLES- 
 
 Billiards ahd 
 
 U 
 
« 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
flstSo 
 
THE 
 
 OF 
 
 BILLIARD & FOOL TABLES 
 
 AND SUPPLIES. 
 
 MAIN OFFICES AND FACTORIES: 
 
 CHICAGO—Office and Salesrooms, 263 and 265 Wabash Avenue, South Side. 
 
 Factories—Corner Market, Huron, Superior and Sedgwick Sts., North Side. 
 NEW YORK—Office and Salesrooms, 860 Broadway, Cor. 17 th St., Union Square. 
 CINCINNATI —130 and 132 East Sixth Street. 
 
 ST. LOUIS —112 South Fourth Street. 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO, CAE_ 653 and 655 Market Street. 
 
 BRANCH OFFICES 
 
 Minneapolis, Minn.— 24 and 26 Sixth St., 
 South. 
 
 Detroit. Mich.—100 Randolph Street. 
 Milwaukee, W is.—203 and 205 Grand Ave. 
 Omaha, Neb.—407 and 409 South Tenth St. 
 Kansas City, Mo.—1109 Grand Avenue. 
 Denver, Colo.—1443 Larimer Street. 
 Boston, Mass.—42 to 48 Hanover Street 
 New Haven. Conn.—18 to 22 Church St, 
 Philadelphia, Pa.—1002 Arch Street. 
 Baltimore. Md.-n West Fayette Street. 
 
 W asliington, I). C.—1310 Pennsylvania Ave. 
 Buffalo, New York—39 Court Street. 
 
 AND SALESROOMS: 
 
 I 1 
 
 Cleveland, Ohio— 337 and 339 Superior S',.'. 
 Toledo, Ohio— 515 St. Clair Street. 
 
 Dallas, Texas— 173 and 175 Main Street. | 
 San Antonio, Texas.— 121 Soledad Street. 
 Pittsburgh, Pa.— 100 Smithfield Street. 
 Syracuse, N. Y.— The Benedict Billiard Tables 
 Co., 248 West Railroad Street. 
 Indianapolis, Ind.— i38-i4oSouth Illinois Sti 
 New Orleans, La.— 617 Poydras Street. 
 Portland, Ore.— 105 Front Street. 
 
 Windsor, Ont.— 52 Sandwich Street, West. 
 Paris, France— 24 Boulevard desCapucints. J 
 
A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK 
 
 OF 
 
 STANDARD RULES 
 
 OF ALL THE PROMINENT GAMES OF 
 
 Billiards and Pool 
 
 AS PRACTICED BY THE GREAT PROFESSIONALS AND OTHER 
 LEADING PLAYERS IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD 
 
 A Series of Valuable Hints to the Purchasers of Billiard^ 
 Tables and to those who keep Tables for 
 Private or Public Use 
 
 THE BRUNSWICK-BALKE-COLLENDER CO, 
 1898 . 
 
Copyrighted, 1898 , by 
 
 THE BRUNSWICK—BALK-COLEENDER CO< 
 
 The Mercantile Printing and Stationery Co., 
 21 East Fourteenth Street, 
 
 New York City. 
 
7 
 
 INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 In presenting this revised edition of the Handbook of the 
 Rules of Billiards the publishers have been duly mindful of 
 the many changes and modifications that have taken place 
 since some of these rules were originally framed. Their aim 
 has been to contribute to the history and literature of “the 
 Gentleman’s Game” a volume that shall preserve all that is 
 vital and valuable in the way of rules and directions, while at 
 the same time discarding much that is obsolete and confusing. 
 Accordingly it will be found that the book is in the best sense 
 ^ “up to date.” It embodies, among other things, the playing 
 rules of the Eighteen-inch Balk Line Game for the World’s 
 Championship, which differs radically from any other style 
 of game heretofore introduced, and which, as illustrated by 
 the highest grade of expert skill, has gained instant public 
 acceptance as one of the most fascinating forms in which the 
 game of billiards has ever been presented. It will be noticed, 
 moreover, that a change for the better has been made through¬ 
 out in the phraseology and construction of the playing rules 
 of the games most in vogue both of billiards and pool, with 
 the object alike of dispensing with superfluous words and of 
 assisting the reader to a clear interpretation of the meaning 
 and intention of the laws governingthe different games. This 
 improved form of the rules has been approved and indorsed 
 by the leading experts of the world, and therefore bears the 
 stamp of the highest authority. To the great body of devotees 
 of the grandest of indoor sports, as well as to those who may 
 desire disinterested advice and suggestion as to the matters 
 to be considered in the purchase of billiard tables and the 
 fitting up and conduct of billiard rooms both public and pri¬ 
 vate—in short, to the friends and patrons of billiards every¬ 
 where, this handy volume is respectfully dedicated. 
 
 THE BRUNSWICK-BALKE COLLENDER CO. 
 
 Hew York, April, 1898 . 
 
 703842 
 

HISTORY. 
 
 The origin of “ The Noble Game ” has forever been a 
 mystery and a contested point, and its invention has been at¬ 
 tributed by various authorities to several nationalities. As 
 an antique date we might mention that Shakespeare, born in 
 1564, and who died in 1616, would have us believe that when 
 Antony revelled in the charms and the luxurious love of the 
 Egyptian Queen, that billiards was even then a well known 
 pastime, for at this period, 30 b.c., he makes Cleopatra sum¬ 
 mon Charmian to billiards. In O’Reilly’s English translation 
 the Abbe McGeorghegan’s “ History of Ireland ” is given 
 e substance of the will of Cathire More, a sub-king of Ire- 
 Imd, who -reigned over the district of Leinster, and who died 
 aid. 148. To quote from that will: “To Drimoth I be- 
 qjueath fifty billiard-balls of brass, with the pools and cues of 
 e same material.” 
 
 The late Rev. Archbishop Hughes, who was himself a patron 
 xjnd warm advocate of the refined pastime, attests that he read 
 in the Confessions of St. Augustine, born a.d. 430, an allusion 
 o billiards. In France, Germany, England, and in this coun¬ 
 try (the game having been brought here by the Spaniards, who 0 - 
 settled in St. Augustine, Fla., in 1565) women have for many 7 
 years been steadfast patrons of the fascinating pastime. 
 
 Our Presidents, from George Washington to the present time, 
 have practised the game in the billiard-parlor of the Executive 
 
 pO^ 
 
6 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 Mansion, likewise have many of the Governors of our several 
 States. 
 
 Henry Ward Beecher and other great divines have in strong 
 terms of praise advocated the game. It may be stated in 
 this connection that there are hundreds of educational insti¬ 
 tutions—insane and inebriate asylums—and very many refor¬ 
 matories throughout the world where the billiard-table is 
 looked upon as an indispensable adjunct. 
 
 The venerable Dr. McCosh, of Princeton College renown, 
 is a warm advocate of the game, likewise are many other of 
 the great Professors of these institutions, and it is but a few 
 years since that a graduate of Princeton College, upon reach¬ 
 ing New York, sent four new billiard-tables as a present to 
 the students of this noble institution. 
 
 Referring to the billiard-table as a means of healthful exer¬ 
 cise, especially for scholars and other persons of sedentary 
 habits, a physician attached to a private academy in one of 
 the Western States wnites : “ I carefully observed for several 
 
 months the powerfully strengthening effect of this peculiar ex¬ 
 ercise, and was much surprised to note the benefits to those 
 possessing weak and defective structures. So marvellous have 
 been the results in many cases where diseases have become 
 almost chronic, that I can scarcely comprehend such wonderfu 7 
 results in so short a time. This exercise, so efficacious in driv¬ 
 ing disease from the human system, has been thoroughly 
 tested and has proven a permanent success, and has the ef¬ 
 fect of materially assisting the pupils, the work of cultivating 
 the mind being greatly aided by the healthful operations of 
 tlm. functions of the body. 
 
 “ Without exercise, the plan has been inactivity of body 
 and activity of mind ; under this system it is equal activity of 
 both, the healthful influence of one, induced by judicious 
 muscular exercise, operating to assist the other. 
 
BILLIARDS MD POOL. 
 
 7 
 
 “ The motions gone through in the pastime reach every part 
 of the body, and operate upon every portion of the system. 
 They completely dispel languor and inactivity from the frame. 
 The tension of the muscles is tested, and the blood flowing ‘ 
 sluggishly in remote and undisturbed portions, is urged and 
 quickened in its circulation by the relaxing and contracting 
 muscles. The brain stimulated into new activity by the lively, 
 bounding current within, and unharnessed by disordered 
 functions of the physical life, comprehends and absorbs with 
 swiftness whatever is presented to its spiritual appetite. 
 Such have been the effects of free billiard exercises, and I hope 
 soon to see them become general in use, as it makes the 
 youth feel that he is growing up into a new life of physical / 
 strength and activity.” 
 
 Many of our great statesmen and other learned men and 
 our refined women have ever been steadfast supporters of 
 the gentle amusement. 
 
 Billiards is a mathematical game and affords scope and ex¬ 
 ercise for those faculties which discipline and strengthen the 
 mind. A steady hand, a clear head, quick perceptions, and a 
 pleasant exercise of the calculating powers are requisites for 
 an accomplished billiard-player, and the practical develop¬ 
 ment of these qualities must naturally be productive of good. / 
 
 The kings of France have at all times been considered most 
 ^powerful friends of the game. Mary Queen of Scots w 7 as a 
 ^passionate patroness of the game, and on the evening preced¬ 
 ing her execution wrote to the Archbishop of Glasgow that 
 flier “ billiard-table had just been taken away from her, as a 
 [preliminary step to her punishment.” The Empress Joseph- 
 ' ine entertained so great an idea c>f the fascinations of the 
 game, that duringNapoleon^moocty moments she would chal¬ 
 lenge him to a bout at billiards, and he never appeared more 
 happy than when engaged in the game. Emperors, kings, 
 
8 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 princes, and titled nobility are competitors at tlie refined pas¬ 
 time, and the women as well participate in the exhilarating 
 amusement. 
 
 BILLIARDS IN THE FAMILY CIRCLE. 
 
 There is no place where the delightful pastime of billiards 
 affords so much pleasure and satisfaction as under the happy 
 influence of home. To such an extent is this truth apparent 
 that no residence of any pretension whatever is considered 
 complete without its billiard-room and billiard-table. Years 
 ago the homes of only the very wealthy contained those re¬ 
 quisites to health and enjoyment, but with our modern prog¬ 
 ress and the demands of advancing taste, these adjuncts of 
 pleasure have found their way into the habitations of the 
 comparatively poor and humble. Nor is this to be wondered 
 at, because while the construction and equipment of the bil¬ 
 liard-tables have undergone great revolutions and improve¬ 
 ments, the cost has changed in the inverse ratio. Twenty 
 years ago, a first-class billiard-table suitable for a dwelling 
 could not be purchased for less than six hundred dollars, and 
 from even this figure the price advanced with the degree of 
 elaborateness with which it was gotten up. To-day a more 
 modern and scientific instrument can be purchased for about 
 lialf that amount, and its cost modified or increased in pro¬ 
 portion to its embellishments, so that practically speaking the 
 billiard-table has been “ placed within the reach of all.”' 
 Long evenings are especially adapted for the enjoyment of 
 this desirable home pleasure, and we see it grow more and 
 more popular with each coming season. From a scientific 
 stand-point, there is no game superior to that of billiards in 
 the development of skill, precision, calculation, and dexterity, 
 while from a hygienic aspect no in-door amusement will at all 
 
AMERICAN 
 
 
 
 CRAIG-Y-NOS CASTLE 
 WALES, GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
 FURMISHEDWITH ABILUARD TABLE MANUFACTURED EXPRESS LY FOR HER 
 BY THE BRUNSWICK-BALKE-COLLEN E3ER CO. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 9 
 
 compare with it. We have the best medical authorities to 
 indorse our views on this latter point. Sir Astley Cooper, 
 the celebrated English physician, has said : 
 
 “ We should all sleep more soundly if we made it a rule to 
 play billiards an hour or two each evening before going to 
 bed, and there is nothing that so endears the family circle as 
 the recollections of amusements shared in common in games 
 in which we all take part.” 
 
 Dr. Marcy, the well-known American physician, says: 
 
 “ One of the pleasantest and easiest means of regaining and 
 retaining health is to introduce into private houses a billiard- 
 table , and to present it to the entire family—men, women, and 
 children—as a means of daily exercise and recreation. The 
 most indolent and stupid will, by practice, soon acquire a 
 fondness for the game ; and the improvement in the sanitary 
 condition of those who habitually indulge in it will commend 
 it in the strongest manner to the heads of families. We also 
 advocate the game of billiards in families from a moral as 
 well as a sanitary point of view. Young America is naturally 
 4 frisky,’ naturally enthusiastic, exuberant, and fond of ex¬ 
 citement and fun. Confine him in the house without diver¬ 
 sion or excitement, and he mopes, sulks, pines, and sooner or 
 later breaks wholesome parental restraints, and instinctively 
 seeks for amusements, excitements, and pleasures elsewhere— 
 at the club, the play-house, the restaurant, and too often the 
 gambling-room. These natural instincts for diversion maybe 
 directed in such a manner by parents as to be productive of 
 positive physical, moral, and intellectual benefit, by investing 
 home with a few of the attractions which beckon them else¬ 
 where. Give them comfortable billiard-rooms and billiard- 
 tables, so that body and mind can be amused and invigorated, 
 and the attractions and pleasures of home will be superior ta 
 those beyond its boundaries.” 
 
10 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 SOUND REASONING. 
 
 In the consolidation of the strongest and best two houses; 
 in the billiard business in the world for the manufacture of 
 billiard and pool tables the public is guaranteed the following 
 advantages: 
 
 1. The benefits of all the valuable patents and improve¬ 
 ments in use. 
 
 2. The saving effected in prices of material, which we buy^ 
 in such quantities as to secure the best slate, lumber, ivory, 
 cloth, etc., at lowest prices. 
 
 3. The advantages afforded by the use of the finest machin¬ 
 ery in our several very extensive factories, a saving in cost,, 
 and the best possible results in finishing. 
 
 4. The choicest array of artistic designs. 
 
 5. Our incomparable quick cushions, combining all the 
 requisite qualities of speed, accuracy, and durability. 
 
 6. Prompt, courteous, and careful attention. Our supply 
 is always full, and there need be no delay in shipping. 
 
 We make a specialty of fine billiard and pool tables for 
 residences, and will furnish designs, diagrams, and all neces¬ 
 sary information, gratis, on application to any of our offices. 
 
 The Brunswick-Balke Collender Co. 
 
 HOW TO BUY A BILLIARD TABLE. 
 
 There are details in the construction of a billiard-table 
 which can only be observed by the closest scrutiny and the 
 most careful investigation. Every intending purchaser of a 
 table should intelligently convince himself on the following 
 essential points : 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 It 
 
 1. Gauge the speed of the cushion, and make sure that it 
 fulfils modern requirements as regards speed, accuracy, etc. ; 
 also see that the cushion is made of pure rubber, and not of 
 a material cheapened by adulteration, and therefore less 
 durable. 
 
 2. Examine the cloth at the time of purchasing, and see 
 that you get genuine Simonis. If you are not a judge of 
 cloth, all the more reason why you should buy only of reliable 
 and trustworthy parties. 
 
 3. Do not be satisfied with hard ivory balls when you have 
 to pay for soft Zanzibar ivory. 
 
 4. In buying pool balls do not allow other material to be 
 substituted for the Hyatt balls. 
 
 5. Demand a guarantee that the lumber of which the table 
 is constructed is thoroughly seasoned. 
 
 6. In the matter of good varnishing and a durable finish 
 you must rely upon the responsibility and experience of the 
 manufacturer—that he uses the best varnish, and that it has 
 proper time to dry, so that the finish will stand all the ex¬ 
 tremes of dryness and dampness, heat and cold. Therefore 
 you should examine the stock of tables on hand in the factory, 
 in order to ascertain whether it is such as to warrant the be¬ 
 lief that the tables are not rushed through. 
 
 7. For thorough workmanship you can only trust to the 
 complete machinery in the factory, and to the experience of 
 the manufacturer and the help employed. 
 
 8. When all these points have been carefully noted, the 
 purchaser is in a position to judge for himself whether he is 
 getting the best goods to be had for the money. 
 
12 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 OUTFITS. 
 
 CARROM-TABLE. 
 
 The outfit of a carrom billiard-table consists of cloth ; one 
 set (4) of ivory billiard-balls ; one cue-rack ; one dozen cues; 
 one set of markers ; bridge, mace, brush, chalk, tips, and a 
 handbook of rules of the different games. 
 
 POOL-TABLE. 
 
 The outfit of a pocket or pool table consists of cloth ; one 
 set (16) of Hyatt composition pool-balls (size to be mentioned 
 in contract) ; a pool ball-rack ; triangle ; bottle and small 
 balls ; one dozen cues ; one cue-rack ; bridge, mace, brush, 
 chalk, tips, and a handbook of the rules of the different 
 games. 
 
 COMBINATION TABLE. 
 
 The outfit of a combination table consists of cloth ; one 
 set ( 4 ) of ivory billiard-balls ; one cue-rack ; one dozen cues ; 
 one set of markers ; bridge, mace, brush, chalk, tips, and a 
 handbook of rules of the different games ; one set carrom- 
 plugs ; one set Hyatt composition pool-balls ; one ball-rack ; 
 one bottle ; one triangle ; one set (16) small balls ; one pin* 
 pool board and one set of pool-pins. 
 
 HOW TO SET UP A TABLE. 
 
 All parts of the billiard-table should be properly numbered, 
 showing which parts come together. 
 
 First place the legs in the proper position on the floor, and 
 screw the sides and ends into them, as marked. 
 
 See that the tenons of the rails are well down in the mor¬ 
 tise ; if not, knock them firmly in, taking care to put a piece 
 of wood on top of the rail to keep it from being bruised with 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 13 
 
 the hammer. Next put in the stretcher-rails as marked. The 
 frame must then be levelled by putting pieces of wood of the 
 requisite thickness under the legs, until a spirit-level and a 
 straight-edge, the whole length as well as across the table, 
 will show a perfect level. Find the highest part and level the 
 rest up to that . 
 
 Now put on the slabs of slate, putting the slab marked 
 “ Head ” on the corresponding part of the frame. 
 
 The slabs must then be screwed down all round the edges 
 first, and levelled again with a spirit-level and straight edge. 
 When this is done, the screws in the middle are to be in¬ 
 serted, and screwed perfectly tight. After all the screws are 
 in, and the bed satisfactory, fill up the screw holes and joints 
 with plaster of Paris, mixed to the consistency of thick cream, 
 and put on quickly, taking care to scrape the filling stuff per¬ 
 fectly even with the bed. When thoroughly dry, the whole 
 must be made smooth with sand-paper. 
 
 Next put on the cloth, with grain running from the head 
 of the table, and draw it as tight as possible, taking care that 
 there are no wrinkles or creases. In putting on the cloth, 
 tack it for a few inches at one corner, then pull the cloth 
 tightly to the corner at the other end of the table, same side,, 
 putting a few tacks in to hold it while the whole of that side 
 is being tacked ; put the tacks about two and a half inches 
 apart. When one side is done, do the same on the opposite 
 side, pulling the cloth evenly, and as tight as possible with¬ 
 out tearing it; next tack the end and head of the table in the 
 same manner. 
 
 No cloth should be placed between the green cloth and the 
 bed of the table. 
 
 i Chalk-cups should be screwed on the rails before they are 
 I put on the table. 
 
 I Then put on the cushion-rails as numbered ; the numbers 
 
14 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 to match will be found under the projecting edges of the 
 bed. 
 
 Before screwing the cushion-rails tight, put in the pockets, 
 ■and screw the pocket-irons in their places. Then screw up 
 the rails as tight as possible, and tack the pockets and leathers 
 in order. In a carrom-table the four corner cushion-bolts 
 should be the first put in, and screwed up so as to bring the 
 cushion-rails properly together. After this is done put in the 
 other cushion-bolts. In placing the spots, a line is drawn down 
 the centre of the table from the sight nails in the head and 
 lower cushions ; two lines are then to be drawn from the 
 centre-sights in the side cushions, and where these lines inter¬ 
 sect, place the spots—the pool spot is placed about five inches 
 from the lower cushion on the central line. Spots are made 
 from court-plaster. Wet and hammer them on lightly to 
 make them stick. 
 
 THE ROOM. 
 
 An apartment to accommodate one table should be of the 
 dimensions following, graduated by the size of the table, and 
 affording space for the free exercise of the cue. Where two 
 or more tables are placed, four feet will be sufficient to allow 
 between them. 
 
 For tables 5 x 10, the room should be 15 x 20. 
 
 “ 41 x 9, “ “ 14lxl8J. 
 
 “ 4x8, “ “ 14 x 171. 
 
 “ 31 x 7, “ “ 12 x 15. 
 
 Architects, in their plans for modern mansions, should 
 make suitable provision for this amusement, without which 
 no gentleman’s establishment (more especially if a couutry 
 vone) can now be considered perfect. Even if the builder of 
 
 1 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 15 
 
 a house has no taste for the game himself, he should look be¬ 
 forehand, and consider that such an accommodation might 
 form an important item in the price which a succeeding ten¬ 
 ant would be willing to pay for it. The light, if possible, 
 should come from above, through ample skylights, so as to 
 bring the table within a general focus, and thus prevent any 
 shadow being thrown from the balls or cushions. The gas¬ 
 light should be raised about three feet two inches from the 
 bed of the table, and supplied with horizontal burners, as by 
 such an arrangement no shadow is cast from the pipe. The 
 distance of the light from the floor should be about 6 feet 
 1 inch. For a 5 x 10 table the cross-arms of the pendant 
 should measure from light to light 28 inches, and the long 
 arms 56 inches. For a 4| x 9 table, cross-arms 25 inches, 
 and long arms 50 inches. For a 4 x 8 table, cross-arms 22 
 inches, and long arms 44 inches. A useful shade has been 
 devised which throws a soft, even light on the table, and 
 keeps the glare from the players’ eyes. The floor, if carpeted 
 at all, should be covered with some thick, or soft material. 
 
 THE TABLE AND ITS ACCOMPANIMENTS. 
 
 The standard size of the billiard-table used by the experts 
 of this country for all match games is five feet in width by ten 
 feet long; but for private houses and public rooms the 
 smaller table, four and one-half by nine feet, has become 
 more popular, and the four feet by eight table is frequently 
 used. The general appearance of a billiard-table is so well 
 known to every one that a description would be out of place. 
 .'The frame is generally made of mahogony, rosewood, walnut, 
 maple, oak, or ash, and, upon special occasions, other woods 
 are employed. The bed is generally of slate and made in 
 
16 
 
 A COMPLETE IIAND-BOOK OF 
 
 three or four slabs, each one inch in thickness ; over this bed 
 is stretched fine green Simon is broadcloth ; the table being 
 made perfectly level, this gives a smooth, even surface for the 
 balls to roll upon. Around this bed and rising about two inches 
 above it, are rails bearing the cushions, the top surface thirty- 
 four inches from the floor. The edge of the cushion where 
 the ball comes in contact with it is one inch and seven-six¬ 
 teenths above the slate, and is or should be slightly pitched, 
 to permit the cue to strike the ball at the proper point. This 
 height is adapted to the regulation size billiard-ball; for balls 
 of smaller size the elevation of the cushions should be changed 
 so that they come but one-fourth of an inch above the centre 
 of the ball. The game of billiards is played in this country 
 almost exclusively upon the carrom-table, which has the rails 
 continuous about the sides and ends, while tables with six 
 pockets—one at each corner and one at the centre of each side 
 and with four pockets, one at each corner of the table are used 
 for fifteen-ball pool. The cushion, upon which depends so 
 much for the success of the stroke, should be made as nearly 
 perfect as possible, combining qualities that will assure dura¬ 
 bility and accuracy; it should possess that nice degree of 
 elasticity the exactness of which requires long experience to 
 learn, that will insure a proper angle when the ball rebounds ; 
 it must be unaffected alike by damp weather or dry, and not 
 susceptible to the changes of temperature. Upon rainy and 
 foggy days the cloth absorbs the moisture, offering greater 
 resistance to the ball, making it necessary to use much more 
 force of stroke than in clear weather to carry the ball the 
 same distance. 
 
 THE CUES, 
 
 when not in use, should be kept in the cue-rack, at a distance* 
 from the fire or stove, and care should be taken to havef 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 17 
 
 them placed in a perfectly perpendicular position, by which 
 means they will be prevented from warping or getting 
 crooked. They should be well sand-papered, occasionally, 
 with fine sand-paper. A billiard-room should never be with¬ 
 out sand-paper; the leather particularly requires to be fre¬ 
 quently sand-papered to keep it from projecting over the 
 cue. This projection of the leather, which is caused by the 
 expansion resulting from the contact with the ball, is the 
 cause of that great annoyance to the billiard-room keeper— 
 a torn cloth. The projecting leather being frequently the 
 hard under part, if, by the slightest miscue, it comes in con¬ 
 tact with the cloth, it either takes off a portion of the nap 
 from the cloth, and makes a small cut, or causes that trian¬ 
 gular rent so frequently seen in the billiard-cloth. The 
 player is frequently blamed for thus injuring the cloth, but 
 the really guilty party is the owner of the cues, who neglects 
 to keep them in good order. The leather should be even 
 with the cue and slightly rounded on the top. 
 
 SELECTION OF A CUE. 
 
 Select a cue in harmony with the physical powers, and be¬ 
 come accustomed as much as possible to play with cues of 
 similar weight. From fifteen to nineteen ounces are fair 
 weights, according to the balls now used in play. A cue, if 
 too heavy, will paralyze the nerves of the arm and render 
 them unable to estimate correctly the amount of force em¬ 
 ployed ; if too light, on the other hand, it will call for an 
 amount of force so great as to be incompatible with a steady 
 and deliberate aim. Without some sensation communicated 
 to the hand through the cue, when it contacts with the ball, 
 it would be impossible for experts to accomplish the great 
 runs so often made. 
 
 The heavier the cue the less is the influence of the stroke on 
 2 
 
18 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 the ball felt, and it is carried beyond or falls short of the 
 point desired. The delicate touch for nursing should be as 
 apparent as the stronger stroke. 
 
 Finally, let the cue be straight, for any crookedness in this 
 instrument distracts the eye, and may seriously interfere 
 with the manual correctness. 
 
 THE BEST CUE-LEATHERS. 
 
 Only the very best cue-tips should be used, and no time 
 should be wasted with the cheaper grades. The labor spent 
 and the time lost through the use of inferior tips makes them 
 more expensive in the end than the higher priced article, 
 and the latter will long outlast the cheaper grades. 
 
 HOW TO PUT LEATHER ON A CUE. 
 
 Select a tip from a box of good leathers which is a shade 
 larger than the point of the cue ; next, place it on some solid 
 flat surface, and give it a sharp blow with a hammer. This 
 gives solidity to the leather, and in a great measure prevents 
 the expansion of the leather after it is on the cue. After it 
 has been hammered, rub the under or flat part with a file or 
 on a piece of sand-paper, to roughen the leather, that it may 
 the more readily and the more fixedly adhere when the adhe¬ 
 sive matter is applied ; now take the cue, and with a file or 
 fine rasp make the point even and true, taking off the old 
 glue or particles of leather, if any are attached. A little good 
 glue applied hot will be sufficient to make the leather adhere, 
 but cue-wax of a good description will be found more con¬ 
 venient. The proper way to use cue-wax is to take a cup of 
 hot water and dip the cue-wax in it until sufficiently dissolved 
 to put on the point of the cue and on the leather. By rub¬ 
 bing and pressing them together for a few minutes a good 
 degree of adhesion will be produced, then attach the cue- 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 19 
 
 clamp, or if without this useful instrument, set the cue up 
 perpendicularly on its end, with the leathered end resting on 
 the floor, that the adhesive matter may receive the weight of 
 the cue. When the wax has hardened thoroughly, the cue 
 and leather can be sand-papered until they are made even. 
 In cases where the leather is wider than the point of the cue, 
 the latter can be reversed, the end bearing the leather placed 
 on a piece of wood, the leather trimmed with a sharp knife 
 nearly even with the wood, and then finished with sand-paper 
 in the usual way. 
 
 The cue-clamp is of very valuable assistance to proper cue¬ 
 leathering, and no billiard-room should be without it. 
 
 For convenience, serviceableness, economy, and readiness 
 of application we manufacture Self-adhesive Cue-leathers, 
 which have met with great favor. They are manufactured of 
 the very best materials, can be attached to the cue with in¬ 
 credible dispatch, and will adhere with the utmost tenacity, 
 and are equally desirable for public or private billiard estab¬ 
 lishments. 
 
 CHALK. 
 
 Only the very best imported chalk should be used on cue- 
 leathers. There has been in the market for the past few 
 years many inferior grades of so-called French and German 
 chalk. 
 
 Competition seems to have forced the very worst grades of 
 this article upon the market, and customers should be ex¬ 
 ceedingly particular to purchase this article from a recognized 
 first-class house, for then only are they insured against impo¬ 
 sition as regards its quality. 
 
 THE CUSHIONS. 
 
 To execute the refined and artistic game of billiards suc¬ 
 cessfully it is imperatively requisite that a perfect billiard- 
 
20 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 cushion should be used. A perfect cushion is one which per¬ 
 mits the ball to return from its resilient side with an ac¬ 
 curacy which shall exemplify the axiom that the angle of 
 incidence and reflection are equal. The principle on which 
 billiard-cushions are constructed to-day admits of great speed 
 with correctness of angles, and these requisites the great 
 experts of the world say are only to be found in the celebrated 
 “Monarch Cushions.” To verify this strong assertion it is 
 only necessary to call attention to the fact that these ex¬ 
 perts invariably select the Monarch Cushions for all their 
 great trials of skill, those which have occurred for years, both 
 in this country, in France, in Belgium, and in other cities in 
 Europe. These cushions have received the award of first 
 medals of honor in all the great expositions which have been 
 held from time to time in this and other countries, lithograph 
 specimens of which may be found at the end of this publica¬ 
 tion. As a casual introduction into the history of the origin 
 and perfection of the billiard-cushion should be of interest to 
 the patrons of the game, we will give a short sketch of billiard- 
 cushions from the original article, the “rag bag” and the 
 bag of curled hair, to the perfected “Monarch” of to-day. 
 
 Previous to 1850 the cushions in general use were made of 
 rags or layers of list or cloth which presented a rounded sur¬ 
 face for the ball to strike against and then rebound with a 
 jump. In England raw gum cushions had been introduced 
 as long ago as 1835 and later they found their way into this 
 country, but they met with so little favor that they were soon 
 abandoned. A so-called inventor of the raw gum cushion also 
 patented in this country an air-pipe cushion of thin vulcanized 
 rubber wdiich had to be filled or pumped full of air, similar to 
 the old-fashioned rubber life preservers, but because of the 
 great height of these cushions, the ball being well hid when it 
 touched or lay under the cushion, they also became unpopular. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 21 
 
 Various attempts were made with rubber and cloth by several in¬ 
 dividuals to invent an acceptable billiard-cushion, but all these 
 attempts invariably met with failure. The first solid rubber 
 cushion was produced in 1850, in the shape of a strip of vul¬ 
 canized rubber which was nailed to the cusliion-rail, it being 
 believed at that time that rubber could not be glued to wood 
 so as to remain fixed. These rubber strips were bevelled 
 with a knife and then rasped down to a true face. An im¬ 
 provement was made upon this method of cutting the rubber 
 through bevelling a piece of wood and securing it to the rub¬ 
 ber strip, then by holding the knife against the bevel the 
 knife would cut through the rubber ; then by another cut of 
 the same rubber through, using the same wooden bevel, a 
 diamond-shaped strip would be produced with face and back 
 bevelled alike, and this was the origin of the diamond-shaped 
 rubber cushion of to-day. 
 
 In 1855 Michael Phelan returned from a residence of about 
 a year in California and brought with him ideas for the con¬ 
 struction of a combination cushion of rubber, leather, and 
 cork, the cork being first used on the face of the rubber to 
 prevent the ball from sinking into the rubber, thus forming 
 a shoulder to resist the ball, which caused an acute angle in 
 the rebound of the ball. It was found that the cork, when 
 used with the rubber alone, would crumble through the con¬ 
 stant pounding of the balls against the cushions, and then a 
 piece of leather was laid over the cork to hold this cork sub¬ 
 stance in position, and the great Phelan and Seereiter match 
 of 1859 was played upon a table fitted with these cushions. 
 Steel-faced, whalebone-faced, corded-edged, and canvas¬ 
 faced cushions were also invented about this time by various 
 manufacturers, but they in turn also became unpopular 
 and were abandoned. Finally hard rubber was introduced 
 to the face of the elastic vulcanized rubber cushions, and 
 
A COMPLETE IIAIN’D-BOOK OF 
 
 these, with various improvements, were in use for some years 
 until they, having served their usefulness, have been laid aside 
 for the now celebrated “Monarch Cushions,” and these latter 
 cushions, having superseded all others, are now in general 
 use all over the world. 
 
 The principle of construction of the perfect “Monarch 
 Cushion ” admits of great speed with correctness of angle. The 
 face of the cushion is comparatively solid, which prevents the 
 ball from imbedding itself into the rubber, the elasticity being 
 at the back, yet both face and back are in fact one substance. 
 
 Its durability and accuracy are not affected by climate or 
 weather, hence it may be, and is, sent to all parts of the world 
 where the game of billiards is known. The chief billiard ex¬ 
 perts and professors of both hemispheres and the premier 
 amateur players of the world have pronounced the “Monarch 
 Cushions ” to be the best and most accurate cushions in use, 
 and in this endorsement alone there is strong evidence of 
 their great merit. The Monarch Cushions are the sole prop¬ 
 erty of the Brunswick-Balke-Collender Co. 
 
 IMPORTANT TO ROOM-KEEPERS. 
 
 Owing to the fact that room-keepers are not generally 
 aware of the peculiar sensitiveness of ivory, rendering it sus¬ 
 ceptible to material damage from atmospheric influences, 
 coupled with the fact that oftentimes they cannot account for 
 the condition of the cloth on their tables, the Brunswick- 
 Balke-Collender Co. deem it wise to give their patrons the 
 benefit of their long experience through an article of general 
 information as to the care of ivory balls, billiard tables, etc., 
 with a view to assisting materially in a better preservation of 
 tables in a first-class condition than has hitherto been the case 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 23 
 
 in most of the private, public, and club billiard-rooms through¬ 
 out the country. It is therefore important that every room- 
 keeper, and all others who are interested in the care of one 
 or more billiard-tables, should carefully peruse the following 
 article that they may commit to memory its valuable sugges¬ 
 tions and be governed accordingly. 
 
 HINTS ON THE CARE OF BILLIARD-TABLES, ETC. 
 
 THE CLOTH. 
 
 Lovers of billiards who have had any considerable experi¬ 
 ence on the “ field of the cloth of green*’ know that, even with 
 cues and balls of the best, a good cloth is something most es¬ 
 pecially to be desired when playing billiards for the sake of 
 billiards, and not merely to pass away time. 
 
 The cloth which has been tested during a period of forty 
 years and not found wanting ; whose uniformity of texture 
 and finish, permanency of color, firmness and durability are 
 unequalled and not to be approached—the cloth par excellence , 
 whose every quality warrants its justly deserved reputation 
 —is that manufactured by Iwan Simonis, of Yerviers, Bel¬ 
 gium ; and this statement cannot be refuted. 
 
 Would-be rivals, however, of Iwan Simonis, on the continent 
 of Europe and in England, are imitating his celebrated billiard- 
 cloth as closely as lies in their power to do, succeeding no bet¬ 
 ter than the majority of imitators—failing at all essential points. 
 
 These productions are imported by dealers in this coun¬ 
 try with intent to deceive buyers ; and they too often suc¬ 
 ceed in imposing upon their patrons, who, paying for the best 
 cloth made, learn too late that they have been furnished with 
 an inferior article, under the guise of “ Best French Cloth/* 
 “Our Own French Importation,” etc. 
 
24 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 To meet the demand for something less costly than his ex* 
 tra superfine cloth, but still a satisfactory article, Iwan Simonis 
 manufactures a No. 2, No. 3, and No. 4 cloth, the No. 2 of 
 which will compare favorably with the best production of any 
 other maker, and lacks only that degree of exquisite finish 
 which distinguishes the extra superfine or No. 1 cloth. The 
 No. 3 and 4 lacks this finish, and, in a slight degree only, 
 the weight of the other two cloths, but are superior to any 
 other fabric of that kind offered at the same price. 
 
 In order to protect himself and patrons against renewed 
 future attempts by would-be rivals, whose productions have 
 heretofore been too successfully palmed upon confiding pur¬ 
 chasers by unconscionable dealers, Iwan Simonis has recently 
 adopted a device which he hopes will prove a safeguard in the 
 future against the substitution of all fraudulent wares as his 
 own ; and this device will explain. 
 
 On the reverse side of the cloth, immediately contiguous to 
 the selvedge on either side, the name of Iwan Simonis, togeth¬ 
 er with the figure designating the quality of the cloth, will 
 appear in every alternate section of two feet, the correspond¬ 
 ing section at the opposite selvedge showing a blank, as shown 
 in the following diagram : 
 
 Selvedge. 
 
 
 
 
 Selvedge. 
 
 Iwan Simonis No. 3. 
 
 
 Iwan Simonis No. 2. 
 
 
 Iwan Simonis. 
 
 
 
 Selvedge. 
 
 
 
 It will thus be seen that every two feet of the fabric—no 
 less is ever cut—will carry the imprint of the manufacturer; 
 rendering further deception dangerous, as manufacturers and 
 dealers will hardly venture upon stamping their goods with 
 the name of Iwan Simonis ! 
 
 The Brunswick-Balke-Collender Co. deal solely and exclu- 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 25 
 
 sively in Iwan Simonis’ billiard cloths, handling no other; 
 and offer it to their patrons, knowing that it is incomparable 
 in every particular. 
 
 With facilities for the production of goods in their line far 
 surpassing those of any other house, combined with an expe¬ 
 rience of over thirty-five years in the business, they feel con¬ 
 fident that they can offer the most reliable goods afforded in 
 this or any other market. 
 
 In ordering cloth send exact measurement of the table from 
 where the cloth joins the wood on top of the cushions. This 
 is essential, as there are many different sizes, and the size of 
 the bed of a table does not correspond with its nominal meas¬ 
 urement. 
 
 State whether you w r ant the cloth for bed or for cushions of 
 table, or both . 
 
 Never permit the use of a cue with the point splintered so 
 as to cause the wood to project beyond the leather. Cues im¬ 
 perfectly tipped or split at the end are apt to cut very small 
 pieces of the nap out of the cloth, making it appear as if cut 
 with a knife-point or, as some charge, the cloth is full of 
 moth-eaten holes, when, as a matter of fact, moths never eat 
 green billiard-clotli. Many room-keepers complain to us con¬ 
 cerning the cloth furnished them, believing that the cloth 
 was defective when put on the table, whereas the defect is in¬ 
 variably due to the improper condition of the cues, to pre¬ 
 vent which these suggestions are offered. 
 
 NEEDLES. 
 
 Even with the very best of care, cloth will frequently be¬ 
 come torn or small cuts made in it. To meet such contin¬ 
 gencies we carry in stock bent needles which with the green 
 sewing silk which we also carry in stock, enables anyone to 
 easily repair the cloth without removing it from the table. 
 
26 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 BALLS. 
 
 Owing to the extreme sensitiveness of ivory balls to atmos¬ 
 pheric influences, they should never be purchased during 
 the fall or winter seasons, if it can be avoided. If purchased, 
 however, extreme care should be used in putting the balls in 
 use. They should not be used immediately upon receipt. Dur¬ 
 ing the fall and winter seasons, and particularly in extremely 
 cold weather, the balls should be kept in the room in which 
 they are to be used for at least one week, in order that they 
 may become adapted to the temperature of the room. If at 
 once put in use they will almost invariably crack or split. 
 It must, however, be distinctly borne in mind, that although 
 keeping the balls in the room for at least one week before 
 using will greatly lessen the risk attending their use, it will 
 by no means insure them against cracking and breaking. We 
 import only the finest, soft, Zanzibar elephant tusk ivory, 
 which is thoroughly seasoned in our shops before being sent 
 out, but in cold weather ivory will split and break if used 
 immediately after being received, no matter how thoroughly 
 seasoned it may be. We study the interests of our customers 
 when we advise them to purchase their stock of ivory balls 
 during the summer season, as the risk attending their ship¬ 
 ment and subsequent use is then greatly lessened. In cases 
 where our customers insist upon the shipment of balls in the 
 dead of winter, they must assume all the responsibility and 
 risk of damage incident to shipment and the subsequent use of 
 the balls. Every set of balls is turned from the very best mate¬ 
 rial and leaves our hands in perfect condition, but on account 
 of the peculiar sensitiveness of ivory, as above described, we 
 cannot under any circumstances guarantee the balls against 
 breaking or splitting at any season of the year. From the fore¬ 
 going it will be perceived that the greatest care must be ex- 
 
BILLIAPDS AND POOL. 
 
 2? 
 
 ercised, particularly in cold weather, when no draughts of cold 
 air should be permitted to come in contact with the balls. 
 Removal of ivory balls from one room to another of a different 
 temperature should be carefully avoided ; also sudden change 
 of temperature, whether from warm to cold, or vice versa, as 
 they will invariably injure, and frequently crack the balls. 
 
 Many people imagine that the use of oil on balls is a 
 practice to be cultivated, but the contrary is probably true, 
 for, although it may not be possible to prove that the use of 
 oil injures the balls, it is an absolute fact that, except in few 
 instances, it in no wise benefits them. All that the balls re¬ 
 quire is to be wiped off with a damp cloth after each game, and 
 subsequently polished with a piece of soft woollen cloth or 
 fine chamois skin. 
 
 KEEP THE CUSHION-BOLTS TIGHT. 
 
 We frequently hear complaints about cushions being “ dead,” 
 and not as good as they were, etc. Upon examination we find 
 that the cushions are quite as active as when first used, the fault 
 being with the party in charge of the table. Neglecting to 
 keep the cushion-bolts screwed up tight, and allowing both 
 bed and cushion cloth to become foul with dirt and dust, tends 
 to kill the action and elasticity of the cushions. The cush¬ 
 ion-screws should be tightened up at least once a month. The 
 greatest care should be taken to keep the billiard-cloth cov¬ 
 ered and brushed as often as possible. Then, again, when 
 the balls are not true they will not run as smoothly as an 
 accurately turned ball. Balls should never be used after 
 they become untrue or out of round, but should be prompt¬ 
 ly sent to the factory for re-turning and re-coloring. After 
 being turned several times billiard-balls become too small 
 for the height of the cushions, and should be replaced by 
 new ones of standard size (2f inches). The edge of the 
 
28 
 
 A COMPLETE IIAND-BOOK OB" 
 
 rubber cushions should always come in contact with the balls 
 just above their centre; if it vary from this the proper angle 
 in playing billiards will of course be altered and the balls will 
 consequently not rebound from the cushions correctly. 
 
 STOCK LIST. 
 
 Altering Carom - Tables to 
 Pool. 
 
 Balls turned and colored. 
 Ball-Backs. 
 
 Billiard and Pool Balls. 
 Billiard-Room Chairs. 
 Billiard-Table Legs. 
 Billiard-Table Covers. 
 Brushes. 
 
 Bridges. 
 
 Bridge-Hooks. 
 
 Billiard-Markers. 
 
 Chalk. 
 
 Chalk-Cups. 
 
 Chalk-Holders. 
 
 Carrom-Plugs. 
 
 Carpet Mats. 
 
 Cloth. 
 
 Composition Pool-Balls. 
 
 Cues. 
 
 Cue-Tips. 
 
 Cue Tip-Trimmers. 
 
 Cue Cement. 
 
 Cue-Wafers. 
 
 Cue-Cutters. 
 
 Cue-Clamps. 
 
 Cushions’ 
 
 Cushion-Rails. 
 
 Cutting down Tables. 
 Covering Pocket Irons. 
 Coloring for Ivory Balls. 
 Coloring and Turning Balls. 
 
 Fringe for Pockets. 
 
 Fancy Cues. 
 
 Hyatt Composition Pool-Balls. 
 Lamps. 
 
 Leather Pockets. 
 
 Leather for Pockets. 
 
 Maces. 
 
 Miscellaneous Billiard and 
 Pool Supplies. 
 
 Parisian Pool-Boards. 
 Pin-Pool Outfit. 
 
 Pool-Bottles. 
 
 Pool-Pins. 
 
 Pool-Baskets. 
 
 Pool-Checks. 
 
 Patent Chalk-Holders. 
 Pocket-Irons. 
 
 Pocket-Nets. 
 
 Polishing Oil. 
 
 Re-varnisbing Tables. 
 
 Small Pool-Balls. 
 
 Slate Beds. 
 
 Specialties. 
 
 Table Alterations. 
 
 Table Fittings. 
 
 Time and Price Registers. 
 Tip-Trimmers. 
 
 Triangles. 
 
 Turning and Coloring Balls. 
 Zanzibar Ivory Billiard and 
 Pool Balls. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 29 
 
 We will at all times cheerfully furnish, on application to any 
 of our offices by mail or otherwise, full information regarding 
 our stock list, etc., and we will mail or send our catalogue 
 and price list, or anything else which may be desired by 
 customers for their information. 
 
 The Brunswick-Balke-Collender Co® 
 
REVISED BOOK OF RULES. 
 
 FOUL STROKES DEFINED. 
 
 Certain general rules defining foul strokes govern all games 
 of billiards. It is a foul, and no count can be made: 
 
 1. If a stroke is made except with the point of the cue. 
 
 2. If the cue is not withdrawn from the cue ball before the 
 latter comes in contact with an object ball. (This relates to 
 what is known as the “push shot.”) 
 
 Playing from Inside the String. 
 
 3. If, when in hand, the striker plays at a ball that is inside 
 or on the string line; or if, when in hand, he plays from any 
 position not within the six inch radius. No claim of foul, in 
 either of these cases, can be made after the stroke. If the 
 non-striker fails to warn the striker beforehand, the referee 
 shall assume that the stroke was fair; and if the striker, 
 having been warned, refuses to alter his play, unless he has 
 meanwhile obtained from the referee a decision as to whether 
 the ball was in or out, the referee shall assume that a foul was 
 contemplated and perpetrated. A ball is outside the string 
 when the point of contact with the table is outside the string 
 line. 
 
 One Foot on the Floor. 
 
 4. If, in the act of striking, the striker has not at least one 
 foot touching the floor. 
 
 5. If the striker touches a ball while in motion ; except in 
 case of a ball which has come to a rest but which, without the 
 fault of the striker, moves before he can check his stroke. In 
 this case, the ball so moving, and all other balls affected by 
 the stroke, shall be replaced, and the player shall repeat his 
 shot. 
 
 Playing with the Wrong Ball. 
 
 6. If the striker plays with the wrong ball; except that 
 should the foul be not claimed until he has made a second 
 stroke, both strokes are valid, and he may continue with the 
 wrong ball, or have the positions of the two whites reversed, 
 
HAND-BOOK OF BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 31 
 
 as he may choose. The incoming striker in case the balls 
 have not been reversed, shall have the same option, but until 
 the balls are changed he must play with his opponent’s ball; 
 should he play with his own ball, without changing its po¬ 
 sition, it is^foul. A player who has just used the wrong ball 
 without detection is debarred from claiming foul if his oppo¬ 
 nent should in his turn play with the other white ball. Should 
 both white balls be forced off the table, and the wrong ball is 
 used in the next stroke, it is fair. A clean miss while using 
 the wrong ball involves the same penalty as when the right 
 ball is used. 
 
 Touching Either a Cue Ball or an Object Ball. 
 
 7. If the player touch the cue ball more than once, or hinder 
 or accelerate it in any other way than by a legitimate stroke 
 of the cue; if he touch, hinder or accelerate an object ball 
 except by the one stroke of the cue ball to which he is entitled. 
 In case of a counting stroke, the foul, as above described, 
 nullifies the count; and the incoming striker has the option to 
 play on the balls as he finds them, or to have them replaced 
 in position by the referee. The cue ball touched before all the 
 balls are at rest, after a carrom, nullifies that stroke ; touched 
 prematurely, or except with the point of the cue, after all the 
 balls are at rest, affects the next stroke, and no count can be 
 made. 
 
 Playing for Safety Debarred. 
 
 8. Touching any ball in any way is a stroke, and a second 
 touch is foul. In such case there shall be no playing for safety. 
 Should a player touch a ball before he is ready to strike, and 
 afterward touch his own or any other ball, his opponent has 
 the option of playing on the balls as he finds them, or of 
 having them replaced. 
 
 Balls Illegally Disturbed. 
 
 9. If any ball be disturbed, hastened or hindered by anyone 
 but himself or his representative, whether the balls are at rest 
 while he is aiming or striking, in motion after he has struck, 
 or at rest after he has struck, and pending his again taking 
 
32 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 aim, the striker shall have the option to play on the balls as 
 he finds them, or to have them replaced. Should the disturbed 
 ball be one on which he would seemingly have effected a count 
 but for the interference, he shall have the option of repeating 
 the stroke on balls replaced, or of being credited withacarrom 
 and allowed to play either as he finds the balls or in the 
 position they would have occupied, according to the judgment 
 of the referee, had they not been disturbed. 
 
 As to ‘ ‘Frozen ” Balls. 
 
 10. It is foul if the striker plays directly upon any ball with 
 which his own is in fixed contact. In case of such contact the 
 striker shall have the option of playing directly upon the ball 
 with which his own is not in contact; or he may, by a masse 
 stroke, play away from the balls, and on the return of the cue 
 ball effect a valid count, provided that in so doing the cue ball 
 first hits the ball with which it was not previously in contact; 
 or he may play to a cushion, and on the return of the cue ball 
 may first hit either of the object balls ; or he may have the 
 balls spotted and play from the string, as in the opening stroke 
 of the game. 
 
 In the various cushion carrom games the option is to play to 
 a cushion or spot the balls. 
 
 Things Forbidden. 
 
 11. It is foul to place marks of any kind upon cloth or 
 cushions as a guide to play; to practice the string shot for lead, 
 as the balls, up to the moment of banking, shall not be hit by 
 either player, and after banking shall not again be hit until 
 the opening stroke is made. It is foul if the striker, in making 
 a shot, is assisted in any way by any other person, except that 
 the marker or referee may, at his request, hand him the bridge 
 or the long cue, or move or hold aside the gas fixture. 
 
 12. It is a foul, and the striker cannot count on the ensuing 
 shot, if a ball in play is lifted from the table, except in those 
 cases in which it is provided that, because of foul or irregular 
 strokes, the balls shall be transposed or replaced. In case a 
 fly, or bit of chalk, or any other substance is attached to a ball. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 33 
 
 it may be removed, on request, by the referee or marker; but 
 if it is at the base of the ball, or on the cloth where it cannot 
 be seen, the referee must assume that it is not there, and the 
 striker must play on and uncover the obstruction so that it 
 may be gotten at without lifting the ball. 
 
 Limit to Deliberate Safety Play. 
 
 13. Persistent playing for safety is not permitted. It is 
 optional with the non-striker, should his opponent make a 
 miss in each one of three successive innings, to accept the 
 third miss, or to reject it and require his opponent to hit at 
 least one object ball; and for this purpose the cue ball shall 
 be replaced by the referee. Should two balls be hit by this 
 stroke there shall be no count. 
 
 14. Should a foul not be claimed until after the striker has 
 made a second stroke, both strokes are valid ; neither can a 
 claim of “no count’’ be enforced after a second stroke has 
 been made. 
 
 THEEE-BALL CABBOM GAME. 
 
 Kule 1 . The Three-Ball Carrom Game is played with two 
 white balls and one red ball. 
 
 Stringing for Lead. 
 
 2. The lead and choice of balls are determined by stringing 
 or banking; and the player whose ball stops nearest the 
 cushion at the head of the table has the choice of the two 
 white balls, and has the option of leading or requiring his 
 opponent to lead. 
 
 Should the two white balls come in contact when stringing 
 for lead, the player whose ball is clearly out of its true course, 
 or whose ball strikes the red ball when on its proper spot, 
 forfeits the lead. When the contact of the balls is equally the 
 fault of both players, or when the balls come to rest at an 
 equal distance from the head cushion, the players shall 
 string again. 
 
34 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 In the opening shot, or whenever the balls are spotted after 
 a “freeze,” the striker is in hand. 
 
 The Opening Shot. 
 
 3. The red ball is placed on the spot at the foot of the table, 
 and the white ball of the player not in hand, as already de¬ 
 termined by the bank, is placed on the spot at the head of 
 the table. 
 
 The player leading must place his ball inside the string and 
 within six inches to the right or left of the other w^hite ball; 
 and must strike the red ball first in order to effect a count. 
 On any other then the opening shot, and excepting when the 
 balls are for any reason spotted, the striker may play upon 
 either ball. 
 
 4. A carrom counts one, and consists in hitting both object 
 balls with the cue ball. Failure to hit either of the object 
 balls constitutes a miss, and counts one for the opposing 
 player. In a ‘'discount’’ game a point so forfeited shall not 
 be deducted from the score of the player giving odds. 
 
 Balls Jumped Off the Table. 
 
 5. When a player’s ball jumps from the table after count¬ 
 ing, the stroke counts, the ball is placed on its proper spot, 
 and the striker plays from the spot upon either object ball. 
 The cue ball, when forced off the table by either a counting, 
 or non-counting, stroke, is to be placed on the string spot if 
 vacant; if the string spot is occupied the ball is placed on the 
 red spot, and if both the other spots are occupied the ball is 
 placed on the centre spot. 
 
 The non-striker’s ball, when forced off, belongs on the string 
 spot, or, if this is occupied, on the red ball spot, or, if both 
 these spots are occupied, on the centre spot. When forced 
 off the table, the red ball, if its ow T n spot be occupied, goes 
 first to the white spot, or, if that spot be occupied, to the 
 centre spot. 
 
 Should both white balls be forced off by a non-counting 
 stroke, the ball of the incoming striker shall go on the w T hite 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 35 
 
 spot, and the other white ball on the red spot, or, if that is 
 occupied, on the centre spot; and the incoming striker may- 
 play upon any ball. In such case, should a player pick up 
 and play with the wrong ball, the stroke is valid and he counts 
 whatever is made ; but at the conclusion of the run the white 
 balls should be reversed in position. 
 
 Strokes on Which No Count Can Be Made. 
 
 6. If in the act of playing the player disturbs any ball other 
 than his own, he cannot make a counting stroke, and cannot 
 play for safety. Should he disturb a ball after having played 
 a counting stroke, the count is void, his hand is out and the 
 ball so disturbed is replaced. Should he touch his own ball 
 previous to playing it is foul, his opponent scores one as for a 
 miss, and the player cannot play for safety. 
 
 7. If the balls are disturbed by any agency other than the 
 player himself, they must be replaced and the player allowed 
 to proceed. 
 
 8. If, after having touched his ball, the striker commits a 
 foul by giving a second touch, the balls remain where they stop, 
 or are replaced in their previous positions as nearly possible, 
 at the option of his opponent. 
 
 9. When the cue ball is in contact with another (“frozen” is 
 the common term) the player may exercise either of the 
 options specified in rule 10, Foul Strokes Defined. 
 
 10. When the cue ball is very near another, the player shall 
 warn his opponent that they do not touch, and give him time 
 to satisfy himself on that point. 
 
 The “Crotch” Barred. 
 
 11. The object balls shall be considered crotched whenever 
 the centres of both lie within a inch square at either corner 
 of the table, and when so crotched, but three counts are 
 allowed unless one or both object balls be forced out of the 
 crotch. In case of failure the player’s hand is out and his 
 opponent plays with the balls as he finds them. 
 
36 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 Duties of the Beferee. 
 
 12. The referee has no voice except when appealed to by 
 the players, who are the only persons authorized to appeal 
 to him. 
 
 13. It is the duty of the referee to see that the points made 
 by each contestant are properly scored. In order that this duty 
 may be performed play must be suspended until points due 
 have been marked up. 
 
 14. It is essential that the referee be at all times in a position 
 to see and decide all disputed points, and for this purpose he 
 should be close to the balls when every shot is played. 
 
 FOUBTEEN INCH BALK-LINE GAME. 
 
 The balk lines are drawn, on a 5x10 table, from each of the 
 first diamond sights on the end and side rails to the corres¬ 
 ponding diamond sight on the opposite end or side rail. In 
 the following diagram, the bed of the table shows the balk¬ 
 lines drawn at both 8 and 14 inches from the cushions. In the 
 18-inch balk-line game the lines are drawn 18 inches from the 
 cushions. 
 
 In other repects the table is the same as that used in the 
 three-ball game, with spots at either end for the red and white 
 balls, and a centre spot for use when the other spots are 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 37 
 
 occupied. The eight spaces defined by lines at the sides and 
 ends of the table are the balk spaces. The large central space 
 is not a balk, and there is no restriction as to the number of 
 carroms that may be made therein. 
 
 In general, the rules of the Three-Ball Carrom game govern 
 the Fourteen inch Balk-line game. The special rules govern¬ 
 ing the latter are as follows : 
 
 Special Balk-Line Rules. 
 
 1. The object balls are in balk whenever both have stopped 
 within any one of the balk spaces. In such case the marker 
 shall call “in,” and when one or both object balls shall be 
 driven out of a balk space, the marker shall call “out.” 
 
 2. A ball on the line is a ball in balk. A ball is on the line 
 only when its centre or point of contact with the table touches 
 this line. 
 
 3. When two object balls are on the same line, the striker 
 shall have the option to determine in which balk they are to 
 be called, and must then govern his play accordingly. 
 
 Playino In and Out of Balk. 
 
 4. But two shots are allowed when two object balls are 
 within the same balk space ; and unless on the second shot at 
 least one of the object balls is driven out of balk, this shot is 
 void, the player’s hand is out, and the incoming striker plays 
 upon the balls as he finds them. If, on the second shot, the 
 ball driven out returns to the same balk space, the rule applies 
 as though it were in balk for the first time, and the player 
 may continue in this way, sending a ball out and back, with¬ 
 out further restriction under this rule. 
 
 Option as to “Frozen” balls. 
 
 5. When the cue ball is in contact with an object ball 
 (“frozen”) the striker may exercise either of the options spec¬ 
 ified in rule 10, Foul Strokes Defined. 
 
38 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 Bills “In Anchor.” 
 
 6. The object balls shall be considered as “In anchor ' 
 when the centres of both balls lie within a space 3)^ inches in 
 width and 7 in. in length, defined on one side by the cushion 
 and on the other three sides by lines marked with chalk, and 
 of which space the balk line, wherever it intersects a cushion, 
 shall be the centre from left to right. When the balls are so 
 “anchored” the striker may have two consecutive shots, but 
 should he fail, on the second shot, to force one or more of the 
 object balls outside the “anchor” space, the second shot is 
 void, and the incoming striker plays on the balls as he finds 
 them. A ball driven out of and returning inside an “anchor” 
 space is considered the same as “in” for the first time. 
 
 WORLD’S CHAMPIONSHIP EMBLEM OF THE 18-INCH 
 BALK-LINE GAME OF BILLIARDS. 
 
 Rules Governing Contests. 
 
 Challenges and Contests for the Emblem of the World’s 
 Championship of the Eighteen-inch Balk-Line game of billiards 
 are governed by the rules of the Fourteen-inch Balk-Line 
 Championship, with the following exceptions: 
 
 Games involving the Championship shall consist of 600 
 points. The city in which contests shall take place must be 
 located in the country of which either party is a resident. In 
 case of a disagreement between the parties as to the selection 
 of a hall or room in which the contest shall take place tho 
 donor of the Emblem shall have the final decision. 
 
 PLAYING RULES. 
 
 The playing rules of the Fourteen-inch Balk-Line game 
 govern the Eighteen-inch Balk-Line game, with the following 
 exceptions: 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 39 
 
 1. The lines are placed 18 inches from the cushions. 
 
 2. But one shot is allowed in balk and one shot in “anchor/' 
 Failure to drive at least one of the object balls out of balk or 
 “anchor" invalidates the stroke, no count can be scored, the 
 striker's hand is out, and the incoming striker plays on the 
 balls as he finds them. 
 
40 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 THE SPACE GAME. 
 
 This game was introduced through a tournament played in 
 Hartford, Conn., Jan. 29 to Feb. 15, 1884. The special 
 feature of this game consists in the introduction of right 
 parallel, and oblique lines, forming spaces upon the table bed, 
 which moderates rail nursing, destroys the nursing of balls in 
 the corners and at one end of the table, and calls for a series 
 of strokes that display all the great beauty of the game of 
 billiards, and which bring the game fairly between the 
 cushion-carroms and unlimited nurse play. The above dia¬ 
 gram is that of the bed-surface of a billiard table, ruled or 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 41 
 
 lined off in spaces. In laying out the table for the playing of 
 the new game, draw upon the cloth four right lines, eleven 
 inches directly out on the table bed, from the top front surface 
 of the side cushion, and from a point on the cushion twenty- 
 one inches from the corners of a 5x10 table, or a distance from 
 the corners that is half way between the first and second 
 sights; this last method of measuring will more easily 
 permit the laying out of the game upon tables of al* 
 sizes. Then draw two other right lines from the face of the 
 cushion at the centre diamond sights, on the end rails, eleven 
 inches directly out on the bed, and in a line with the spots. 
 From and to the points of the right lines, at the side cushion, 
 draw a straight line, parallel to the cushion, which line will 
 run eleven inches from and along the surface of the side 
 cushion. Then from the point where these lines intersect 
 draw an oblique line to the point of the right lines projecting 
 from the centre of the end cushion. Thus we have four re¬ 
 stricted spaces in the corners, within anyone of which but 
 three counting strokes can be made without, at least, sending 
 one of the object-balls out of the space. To modify rail play 
 along the near surface of the side cushion is the purpose of 
 the parallel line, within which line but two counting strokes 
 can be made. In the large centre space of the table earroms 
 may be made ad libitum. 
 
 The rules of the Balk-Line Game govern the New Space 
 Game, except where they conflict with those rules which 
 govern the corner spaces. 
 
 THE PROGRESSIVE CARROM GAME. 
 
 The Progressive Game of Billiards differs only from the 
 ordinary Three-ball Carrom Game in the manner in which the 
 game is scored. The striker scores one for each cushion he 
 causes the cue-ball to hit in effecting a valid carrom; thus one 
 cushion hit by the cue-ball, should the striker make a carrom, 
 
42 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND BOOK OF 
 
 would count but one ; two cushions hit by the cue-ball counts 
 two ; five cushions hit counts five, etc. Ordinary carroms 
 from ball to ball count one. The rules of the regular Three- 
 ball Game of Billiards govern this game also, except when 
 they conflict with the foregoing rules. 
 
 FOUR BALL CABROM GAME. 
 
 The Four-ball Carrom Game is played upon a carrom table 
 with two red and two white balls. A carrom counts 1, whether 
 effected upon a red and white ball or upon two red balls. 
 
 The deep-red ball is spotted on the red ball spot at the foot 
 of the table ; the light red ball is spotted on the white ball or 
 string spot; and the two white balls are in hand. 
 
 The player winning the opening bank may either lead or 
 require his opponent to do so. The player leading plays his 
 cue ball beyond the deep red to any point at the foot of the 
 table ; and the next player on his opening stroke, playing from 
 any point within the string, must first strike the white ball in 
 order to effect a carrom, but on any other stroke, except when 
 the cue ball is in hand, may play on either ball first. 
 
 Should he, on the leading stroke, fail to hit the white ball 
 first, or fail to hit it at all, his opponent counts one point. 
 
 A stroke made while a red ball is off the table, provided 
 its spot is unoccupied, is foul. 
 
 A touch of a cue ball is a shot. If, while the balls are at rest, 
 a player touches or disturbs any ball on the table, it is foul. 
 
 If, when the player’s ball is in hand, he does not cause it to 
 pass outside the string before touching any of the object balls 
 or cushion, the stroke is foul, and his opponent may choose 
 whether he will play with the balls as they are, have them 
 replaced in their original positions, or cause the stroke to be 
 played over. 
 
 In all other particulars the Four-ball Carrom Game is 
 governed by the rules of the Three-ball Carrom Game. 
 
 Playing directly at a ball that is considered in the “string," 
 is not foul, provided the cue-ball pass wholly beyond the 
 “string" line before coming in contact. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 43 
 
 Giving a miss inside the “string,” when the playeris in hand, 
 is foul; but he may, for safety, cause his ball to go out of 
 the “string,” and return. 
 
 AMERICAN FOUR-BALL POCKET GAME. 
 
 In the advance and development of billiards during the past 
 thirty years, the Original American Four-ball Game has 
 fallen into almost total disuse. It is so seldom played that a 
 brief mention of the points wherein it differs from the games 
 of the present day will meet all requirements. It was played 
 on a six-pocket table, and later on a four-pocket table. The 
 counts were as follows: 
 
 Pocketing a red ball, 3; Carroming on the red balls, 3; 
 pocketing an opponent’s ball, 2; carroming on red and 
 white balls, 2. 
 
 Subsequently all carroms were of equal value and counted 
 1 each. 
 
 The penalties and forfeitures were as follows: 
 
 A miss, 1; pocketing the cue ball after contact with a red 
 ball, 3; pocketing the cue ball after contact with a white ball, 
 2; pocketing the cue ball without hitting any object ball, 3; 
 jumping the cue ball off the table after contact with a red 
 ball, 3; jumping the cue ball off the table after contact with 
 a white ball, 2. 
 
 The “push” shot was for several years permitted, but was 
 ruled out in 1867; up to that time the use of the mace was 
 also allowed. 
 
 CUSHION CARROM GAME. 
 
 In the Cushion Carrom Game the general rules of the Three- 
 ball game apply as to balls, spots, stringing for lead, playing 
 from radius, ball forced off the table, foul strokes, penalty for 
 miss, playing for safety, etc. The specific rules governing 
 Cushion Carroms are as follows: 
 
44 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 1. A counting stroke is complete when the cue ball has 
 touched one or more cushions before effecting a carrom, or 
 when the cue ball, after striking one object ball, touches one 
 or more cushions before striking the second object ball. 
 
 2. In case of doubt whether the cue ball has touched a 
 cushion before striking an object ball, the decision of the 
 referee must be against the striker. 
 
 3. Each cushion carrom counts one for the striker. A miss 
 of both object balls counts one for the non-striker. 
 
 When Balls Are ‘'Frozen.” 
 
 4. When the cue ball is in contact with (“frozen” to) an 
 object ball, the striker may play to a cushion from the ball 
 with which the cue ball is not in contact, or he may play 
 direct to a cushion ; or he may have the balls spotted as at 
 the opening of the game. 
 
 5. When the cue ball is at rest against a cushion, it may be 
 played so as to rebound from that cushion, and a carrom so 
 effected shall be a count; but it is a foul stroke and no count 
 if the ball resting against a cushion is aimed directly at the 
 object balls without having rebounded from this or being 
 driven to another cushion before effecting the carrom. 
 
 THBEE-CUSHION CARKOM GAME. 
 
 The game of Three-cushion Carroms is governed by the gen¬ 
 eral laws of billiards as already set forth, and the only partic¬ 
 ulars in which it differs from the game of Cushion Carroms 
 are indicated in the following rules : 
 
 1. In order to constitute a valid carrom, the cue ball must 
 first have touched a cushion or cushions at least three distinct 
 times before completing a count. 
 
 2. Each carrom counts one, and each miss counts one for 
 the non-striker. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 45 
 
 3. In the caseof “frozen” balls, the option is to play away 
 from the balls or to spot them at the opening of the game. 
 
 4. When the cue ball rests against a cushion, the striker 
 cannot play directly at that cushion, but must touch at least 
 three other cushions, either before or after contact with an 
 object ball, in order to effect a valid three-cushion carrom. 
 
 BANK SHOT GAME. 
 
 The rules distinctively pertaining to the Bank Shot Game 
 are as follows, play being in other respects governed by the 
 Three-ball Carrom rules: 
 
 1. In the lay-off shot, as in every other stroke, the cue ball 
 must touch at least one cushion before striking an object ball. 
 
 2. When the cue ball rests against a cushion, the striker 
 cannot play directly at that cushion, but must touch at least 
 one other cushion before completing a valid carrom. 
 
 3. When the cue ball is “ frozen ” the striker has no option, 
 but must play with the balls as he finds them. 
 
 4. In cases where it is doubtful whether the cue ball touched 
 a cushion before coming in contact with an object ball, the 
 decision of the referee must be against the striker. 
 
 THE GAME OF BILLIARDS FOR THE ENGLISH 
 CHAMPIONSHIP. 
 
 Rules. 
 
 1. The choice of balls and order of play shall, unless mu¬ 
 tually agreed upon by the two players, be determined by 
 stringing; and the striker whose ball stops nearest the lower 
 [or bottom] cushion, after being forced from balk up the 
 table, may take which ball he likes, and play, or direct his 
 opponent to play first, as he may deem expedint. 
 
 2. The red ball shall, at the opening of every game, be 
 
46 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 placed on the top [or red] spot, and replaced after being pock- 
 eted or forced off the table, or whenever the balls are bro¬ 
 ken. 
 
 3. Whoever breaks the balls, i.e. 9 opens the game, must 
 play out of balk, though it is not necessary that he shall strike 
 the red ball. 
 
 4. The game shall be adjudged in favor of whoever first 
 scores the number of points agreed on, when the marker 
 shall call <£ game ; ” or it shall be given against whoever, after 
 having once commenced, shall neglect or refuse to continue 
 when called upon by his opponent to play. 
 
 [The scores are counted as below : ] 
 
 5. A two stroke is made by pocketing an opponent’s ball, 
 or by pocketing the striker’s ball off his opponent’s, or by 
 making a carrom, to effect which the striker must cause his 
 ball to strike both the others. 
 
 6. A three stroke is made by pocketing the red ball, or by 
 pocketing the striker’s ball off the red. 
 
 7. A four stroke may be made by pocketing the white and 
 spot-white balls or by making a carrom and pocketing an op¬ 
 ponent’s ball, or by making a carrom and pocketing the strik¬ 
 er’s ball, the non striker’s ball having been first hit. 
 
 8. A five stroke may be made by scoring a carrom and pock¬ 
 eting the red ball, or by a carrom and pocketing the striker’s 
 ball after having struck the red ball first. 
 
 9. To effect a six stroke the red bail must be struck first, 
 and the striker’s and the red ball pocketed, or by a carrom off 
 an opponent’s ball on to the red and pocketing the two white 
 balls. 
 
 10. A seven stroke is made by striking an opponent’s ball 
 first, pocketing it, making a carrom, and pocketing the red 
 also, or by making a carrom and pocketing the red and an 
 opponent’s ball, or by playing at an opponent’s ball first and 
 pocketing all the balls without making a carrom. 
 
 11. An eight stroke is made by striking the red ball first, 
 pocketing it, making a carrom, and pocketing the striker’s ball, 
 or by hitting the red first and pocketing all the balls without 
 making a carrom. 
 
 12. A nine stroke is made by striking an opponent’s ball 
 first, making a carrom, and pocketing all the balls. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 47 
 
 13. A ten stroke is made by striking the red ball first, mak¬ 
 ing a carrom, and pocketing all the balls. 
 
 14. If the striker scores by his stroke he continues until he 
 ceases to make any points, when his opponent follows on. 
 
 15. If when moving the cue backward and forward, and 
 prior to a stroke, it touches and moves the ball, the ball 
 must be replaced to the satisfaction of an adversary, other¬ 
 wise it is a foul stroke ; but if the player strikes, and grazes 
 any part of the ball with any part of the cue, it must be con¬ 
 sidered a stroke, and the opponent follows on. 
 
 16. If a ball rebounds from the table, and is prevented in 
 any way, or by any object except the cushion, from falling to 
 the ground, or if it lodges on a cushion and remains there, it 
 shall be considered off the table, unless it is the red, which 
 must be spotted. 
 
 17. A ball on the brink of the pocket need not be “ chal¬ 
 lenged : ” if it ceases running and remains stationary, then 
 falls in, it must be replaced, and the score thus made does 
 not count. 
 
 18. Any ball or balls behind the balk-line, or resting ex¬ 
 actly upon the line, are not playable if the striker be in hand, 
 and he must play out of balk before hitting another ball. 
 
 19. Misses may be given with the point or butt of the cue, 
 and shall count one for each against the player ; or if the 
 player strike his ball with the cue more than once a penalty 
 shall be enforced, and the non-striker may oblige him to play 
 again, or may call on the marker to place the ball at the point 
 it reached or would have reached when struck first. [The 
 butt may also be used for playing a ball in hand up the table 
 in order to strike a ball in balk.] 
 
 20. Foul strokes do not score to the player, who must al¬ 
 low his opponent to follow on. They are made thus : By 
 striking a ball twice with the cue ; by touching with the hand, 
 ball, or cue an opponent’s or the red ball ; by playing with 
 the wrong ball; by lifting both feet from the floor when 
 playing; by playing at the striker’s own ball and displacing 
 it ever so little (except while taking aim, when it shall be 
 replaced, and he shall play again). 
 
 21. The penalty for a foul stroke is losing the lead, and, in 
 case of a score, an opponent must have the red ball spotted, 
 
48 
 
 A COMPLETE IIAND-BOOK OF 
 
 and himself break the balls, when the player who made the 
 foul must follow suit, both playing from the D. If the foul 
 is not claimed the player continues to score, if he can. 
 
 22. After being pocketed or forced off the table the red 
 ball must be spotted on the top spot, but if that is occupied 
 by another ball the red must be placed on the centre spot be¬ 
 tween the middle pockets. 
 
 23. If in taking aim the player moves his ball and causes it 
 to strike another, even without intending to make a stroke, a 
 foul stroke may be claimed by an adversary. (See Rule Fif¬ 
 teenth.) 
 
 24. If a player fail to hit another ball, it counts one to his 
 opponent; but if by the same stroke the player’s ball is forced 
 over the table or into any pocket it counts three to his oppo¬ 
 nent. 
 
 25. Forcing any ball off the table, either before or after 
 the score, causes the striker to gain nothing by the stroke. 
 
 26. In the event of either player using his opponent’s ball 
 and scoring, the red must be spotted and the balls broken 
 again by the non-striker ; but if no score is made, the next 
 player may take his choice of balls and continue to use the 
 ball he so chooses to the end of the game. No penalty, how¬ 
 ever, attaches in either case unless the mistake be discovered 
 before the next stroke. 
 
 27. No person except an opponent has a right to tell the 
 player that he is using the wrong ball, or to inform the non- 
 striker that his opponent has used the wrong ball; and if the 
 opponent does not see the striker use the ball, or, seeing him, 
 does not claim the penalty, the marker is bound to score any 
 points made to the striker, 
 
 28. Should the striker [whose ball is in hand], in playing 
 up the table on a ball or balls in balk, either by accident or 
 design, strike one of them [with his own ball] without first 
 going out of balk, his opponent may have the balls replaced, 
 score a miss, and follow on ; or may cause the striker to play 
 again, or may claim a foul, and have the red spotted and the 
 balls broken again. 
 
 29. The striker, when in hand, may not play at a cushion 
 within the balk (except by going first up the table) so as to 
 hit balls that are within or without the line. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 ‘19 
 
 30. If in hand, and in the act of playing, the striker shall 
 move his ball with insufficient strength to take it out of balk, 
 it shall be counted as a miss to the opponent, who, however, 
 may oblige him to replace his ball and play again. [Failing 
 to play out of balk, the player may be compelled to play his 
 stroke over again.] 
 
 31. If in playing a pushing stroke the striker pushes more 
 than once it is unfair, and any score he may make does not 
 count. His opponent follows by breaking the balls. 
 
 32. If in the act of drawing back his cue the striker knocks 
 the ball into a pocket, it counts three to the opponent, and is 
 reckoned a stroke. 
 
 33. If a foul stroke be made while giving a miss, the adver¬ 
 sary may enforce the penalty or claim the miss, but he cannot 
 do both. 
 
 34. If either player take up a ball, unless by consent, the 
 adversary may have it replaced, or may have the balls broken 
 but if any other person touches or takes up a ball it must be 
 replaced by the marker as nearly as possible. 
 
 35. If, after striking, the player or his opponent should by 
 any means obstruct or hasten the speed of any ball, it is at 
 the opponent or player’s option to have them replaced, or to 
 break the balls. 
 
 36. No player is allowed to receive, nor any by-stander to 
 offer advice on the game ; but should any person be appealed 
 to by the marker or either player he has a right to offer an 
 opinion ; or if a spectator sees the game wrongly marked he 
 may call out, but he must do so prior to another stroke. 
 
 37. The marker shall act as umpire, but any question may 
 be referred by either player to the company, the opinion of 
 the majority of whom shall be acted upon. 
 
50 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND BOOK OF 
 
 THE SPANISH GAME OF BILLIARDS. 
 
 This game is played in the South, California, and in Mex¬ 
 ico and Cuba, and is played with two white and one red 
 ball, and five pins placed similar to those in Pin PooL 
 The red ball is placed on the red-ball spot, and the 
 first player strikes at it from within the balk semicircle. 
 The game is scored by winning and losing hazards, carroms, 
 and by knocking over the pins. It is usually played thirty 
 points up. 
 
 Rules. 
 
 1. The player who knocks down a pin after striking a 
 ball gains two points, if he knocks down two pins he gains 
 four points, and so on, scoring two points for each pin knocked 
 down. If he knock down the middle pin alone he gains five 
 points. 
 
 2. The player who pockets the red ball gains three points 
 and two for each pin knocked down by the same stroke. 
 
 3. The player who pockets the white ball gains two points 
 and two for each pin knocked over with the same stroke. 
 Each carrom counts two. 
 
 4. The player who knocks down a pin or pins with his own 
 ball before striking another ball loses two for every pin so 
 knocked down. 
 
 5. The player who pockets his own ball without hitting 
 another ball forfeits three points; for missing altogether he 
 forfeits one point. 
 
 6. The striker who forces his own ball off the table without 
 hitting another ball forfeits three points, and if he does so 
 after making a carrom or pocket he loses as many points as 
 he would otherwise have gained. The rules of the Three-ball 
 Game, except where they conflict with the foregoing rules, 
 govern this game also. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 51 
 
 THE GAME OF CONTINUOUS POOL 
 
 For the Championship. 
 
 Continuous Pool, so called from the system of scoring the 
 game, differs from any other game of ball pool heretofore in 
 vogue. Unlike 61- or 8-ball Pyramid Pool the scoring of the 
 game is continued until all the balls in each frame have been 
 pocketed and the game may consist of any number of balls or 
 points up which may be agreed upon. Each ball pocketed 
 scores one point for the striker and the game is usually scored 
 upon the string of buttons over the table as in regular bill¬ 
 iards. Penalties are paid through deducting points from the 
 offending player’s score or string of buttons, instead of for¬ 
 feiting a ball to the table as in regular pyramid pool. 
 
 In playing a long game of more than one night’s duration, 
 when a player shall have scored the agreed upon quota for 
 the night, play must be continued until all the balls of the final 
 frame have been pocketed, and each player must be credited 
 with the balls which each shall pocket in the aforesaid final 
 frame. 
 
 On the final night of a match, playing shall cease as soon as 
 the leading player shall have scored or pocketed a sufficient 
 number of balls to be declared winner of the match. 
 
 The Game. 
 
 The game of Continuous Pool is played with fifteen num¬ 
 bered balls and one white ball, not numbered. The latter is 
 the cue-ball and the player plays with it from within the string 
 at the head of the table, at the opening of the game, at any of 
 the numbered balls, and afterward as he finds it on the table, 
 his object being to pocket as many of the numbered balls as 
 he can. The fifteen balls are numbered from one to fifteen 
 
 IUBRARY 
 
52 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 respectively, and are usually colored, but the numbers on 
 the balls are simply used for convenience in calling the num¬ 
 ber of each ball which the player intends to pocket, and do 
 not in any way affect the score of the player. Before com¬ 
 mencing the game these fifteen balls are placed promis¬ 
 cuously in the form of a triangle upon the table, a triangular 
 frame being employed for this purpose, to insure correctness. 
 The highest numbered balls must be placed nearest the apex 
 of the triangle and the lowest numbered at its base; the 
 15-ball must be placed at the apex and must rest on the spot 
 known as the red-ball spot in the regular Three-ball Game of 
 Billiards. 
 
 The string line occupies the same place on the table as it 
 does in the Three-ball game. Each and every ball counts one 
 point, and the game shall consist of any given number of 
 points, to be mutually agreed upon. 
 
 Emblem of the Continuous Pool Championship of Amekica, 
 
 Rules Governing Contests . 
 
 1. Contests for the emblem shall, in addition to the emblem, 
 involve a money stake amounting to at least $150 a side. 
 This amount is necessary in order that the holder of the em¬ 
 blem may not be challenged by unskilful players whose only 
 object in challenging would be to gain notoriet}'. 
 
 2. The sum of $75 must accompany all challenges to give 
 them validity. Until the holder of the emblem covers this 
 amount, it will be regarded, not as a forfeit, but simply as a 
 guarantee of good faith, and as being requisite to secure for 
 the challenge it represents precedence over any others which 
 may come after. 
 
 3. The holder of the emblem must cover his challenger’s 
 money within ten days after receipt of notification that he has 
 been challenged. Failure to do so, without sufficient cause 
 therefor, will entitle the challenger to the emblem. But the 
 holder of the emblem will not be required to cover the money 
 of more than one challenger at a time. 
 
 4. When $75 have been put up on each side, the $150, as 
 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 53 
 
 well as the emblem, becomes subject to forfeiture. The re¬ 
 maining* $75 must be put up at least ten days prior to date 
 of contest, and after such final deposit the match shall be 
 “play or pay,” i.e., death only relieving* the players from 
 their contract. 
 
 5. The holder of the emblem has the right to name the city 
 and date of contest, but he is required to play within forty 
 days from the time of receipt of challenge, but not before. 
 Should either party refuse to play w r ithin the specified time, 
 he shall forfeit his claim to the emblem and stakes. Should 
 both parties conspire to defeat this or any other rule relative 
 to the emblem, without the consent of the donor, the match 
 shall be declared off and the stake-money returned. The em¬ 
 blem will revert to the original donor. All games for the 
 championship shall be played in the United States. 
 
 6. To define the above rule: A challenge issued while a 
 match for the emblem is pending, and being next in order, 
 shall go into effect on the next day after that match is dis¬ 
 posed of, either through play or forfeiture. A challenge 
 issued while there is no match pending shall take effect upon 
 the dav of its date*, provided it is not in any way subject to 
 the rule next below. 
 
 7. The challenge of a player who has been beaten while 
 contesting for the emblem shall not go into effect until five 
 days after the contest in which he was defeated. 
 
 8. All challenges not conflicting with Rule Seven, shall go 
 into effect in the order of their issue, the first being entitled 
 to priority, and so on. In determining priority, allowance 
 must be made for distance, and the better to settle disputes, 
 all challenges sent by mail shall be accompanied by the cer¬ 
 tificate of two responsible parties, other than the player, set¬ 
 ting forth the exact hour at which the forfeit money was de¬ 
 spatched. In case two challenges should be issued at the same 
 time, the holder of the emblem may give either precedence. 
 
 9. Each game shall consist of 200 points, the champion 
 to have the option of playing only one night. But if it is 
 mutually agreed upon between the champion and his chal¬ 
 lenger, the contest may consist of a greater number cf points, 
 but no more nor no less than 200 points each evening. And 
 
54 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 after the winner has defrayed the expenses of the match, he 
 shall receive whatever sum may have accrued above expenses. 
 
 10. All contests must fake place in a public hall mutually 
 agreed upon, and at night-time, commencing at eight o’clock, 
 unless there should be some special reason and a special 
 agreement to play in the day-time. 
 
 11. The holder of the emblem will be required to defend it 
 for one year against all comers, provided they are at least 
 eighteen years of age, and of un impeached professional 
 standing. During this probation, the holder of the emblem 
 must deposit with its donor (The Brunswick-Balke-Collender 
 Co.) the sum of $100, to insure its preservation in good 
 order, and its presentation at every contest in which it may 
 devolve upon him to defend it. The emblem becomes the 
 property of the player who wins and defends it against all 
 contestants for a period of twelve months. 
 
 12. In all matches for the emblem, the permanent stake¬ 
 holder shall be the New York House of The Brunswick- 
 Balke-Collender Co. 
 
 13. All matches for the emblem shall be played with 2 5-16 
 inch balls upon a 5x10 table manufactured by The Brunswick- 
 Balke-Collender Co. with pocket-openings 4}£ inches at the 
 corners and 4% inches at the sides. 
 
 14. In the event of dispute as to any point not specifically 
 covered by these rules the decision shall rest with the donor of 
 the emblem. 
 
 Eules fob Play. 
 
 1. In match or tournament contests the game is begun by 
 banking, the same as in the Three-ball Carrom Game. The 
 winner of the lead has the option of playing first himself from 
 within the string at the head of the table, or he can compel 
 his opponent to play first from the same place. For con¬ 
 venience, two white balls of the same size as the pool balls 
 may be provided for banking. 
 
 2. The player who makes the opening stroke must play 
 from within the string at the head of the table and must drive 
 two or more object-balls to a cushion, or cause at least one 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 55 
 
 object-ball to go into a pocket. Should he fail to do either, 
 the balls are to be set up again; he forfeits two points, and 
 must continue to play until he drives two or more object-balls 
 to a cushion, or at least one object-ball into a pocket. Each 
 failure causes him to forfeit two points. 
 
 In match or tournament games the player making the open¬ 
 ing stroke must call the ball or bails to be pocketed in order 
 to effect a count. 
 
 3. Before making a stroke the player must distinctly call 
 the number of the ball he intends to pocket, and unless he 
 does so the ball pocketed does not count for him and must be 
 placed on the deep-red spot; or, if that be occupied, as near 
 on a line below it as possible. The player loses his hand, but 
 does not forfeit any points, and the next player plays. Should 
 he call more than one ball, he must pocket all the balls he calls, 
 otherwise none of them can be counted for him. A player is 
 not required to pay a penalty for failure to move or hit a called 
 ball provided he hits any other ball or balls on the table. 
 
 [Note to Rule 3.—By an agreement entered into by the players in the Worlds 
 Championship Tournament in March, 1893, it was stipulated that in match or 
 tournament games a ball falling in a pocket, other than the one for which it is 
 obviously intended, according to the judgment of the referee, does not count.] 
 
 4. After the opening stroke each player must either pocket 
 a ball or make at least one object-ball or the cue-ball, after 
 contact with an object-ball, strike a cushion, under penalty of 
 forfeiture of one point. 
 
 5. Should the player pocket, by the same stroke, more balls 
 than he calls, he is entitled to all the balls he calls and all the 
 other balls pocketed by the stroke. 
 
 6. All strokes must be made with the point of the cue, 
 otherwise they are foul. 
 
 7. A forfeit of one point is deducted from the player’s score 
 for making a miss, pocketing his own ball, forcing his own ball 
 off the table, failing to either make an object-ball strike a 
 cushion or go into a pocket, or the cue-ball to strike a cushion 
 as provided in Rule 4, and for striking his own ball twice. 
 
 8. A ball whose centre is on the string line must be regarded 
 as within the line. 
 
56 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 9. If the player pocket one or more of the object-balls, and 
 his own ball go into a pocket or off the table from the stroke, 
 he cannot score for the balls, which must be placed on the 
 spot known as the deep-red spot; or, if it be occupied, as near¬ 
 ly below it as possible, and on a line with the spot, and the 
 player forfeits one point for pocketing his own ball or driving 
 it off the table. 
 
 10. A ball going into a pocket and rebounding onto the table 
 must be regarded in the same light as if it had struck a 
 cushion, and is not to be counted as a pocketed ball. It re¬ 
 tains its place where it comes to rest upon the table. An 
 object-ball forced off the table, or forced off and rebounding 
 from some object foreign to the table, must be replaced upon 
 the deep-red spot; or, if that be occupied, on aline below it and 
 as near as possible. If it is the cue-ball, it is to be regarded 
 as being off the table and in hand. The gas-fixture or other 
 apparatus for lighting, when placed directly over the table, 
 shall not be considered a foreign object, and should a ball 
 striking a fixture rebound to the table, it must retain its 
 position where it comes to rest. 
 
 11. A ball resting on the cushion must be regarded as off 
 the table. 
 
 12. When the cue-ball is in hand, the player may play from 
 anyplace within the string at any object-ball outside of it; 
 but he is not allowed to play directly at an object-ball which 
 is within the string. Should none of the object-balls be out¬ 
 side, that ball which is nearest outside the string should be 
 spotted on the deep-red spot, and the player may play at it. 
 
 13. Should the striker touch the cue-ball with the point of 
 his cue, or should he touch it with any other part of the cue 
 except the point, or with his clothing, or anything else, it 
 shall be accounted a stroke. The striker loses his hand, for¬ 
 feits three points, and the next player plays. 
 
 14. Should the player touch an object-ball with the point 
 or any other part of the cue, or with his clothing, or anything 
 else, the ball so disturbed is to be replaced by the referee in 
 its original position. The striker loses his hand only and the 
 next player plays. 
 
 15. A counting stroke cannot be regarded as being 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 57 
 
 completed until all balls set in motion by the stroke have come 
 to rest. 
 
 16. A stroke made when any of the balls are in motion is 
 foul. Should such a stroke be made, the balls are either to 
 be replaced or left as they come to rest, at the option of the 
 next player, and the next player plays. The striker loses his 
 hand and forfeits three points. 
 
 17. Should the player strike his own ball twice he forfeits 
 three points, and the balls disturbed in consequence of the 
 second stroke are to be placed by the referee in the position 
 they occupied before the first stroke, or left as they are when 
 they come to rest, at the option of the next player. The 
 striker loses his hand, and the next player plays. 
 
 18. Should the balis, or any of them, on the table be acci¬ 
 dentally disturbed by any other person or cause than the 
 player, they are to be replaced as nearly as possible in their 
 original position, and the player may continue. 
 
 19. Push shots are allowed; that is, it is not necessary to 
 withdraw the point of the cue from the cue-ball before the 
 latter touches the object-ball. When the cue-ball is in con¬ 
 tact with another ball, the player may play directly at the ball 
 with which it is in contact, or directly from it, and the latter 
 play shall not be recorded as a miss, provided a cushion is 
 struck, as specified in Rule 4, 
 
 20. When the striker is in hand, should he play from 
 any position not within the string line, without being 
 checked previous to the stroke being made, any score he may 
 make from such stroke he is entitled to ; but if he is checked 
 before making the stroke, and then makes it, it does not 
 count for him, his hand is out and the next player plays, and 
 all balls disturbed by the stroke must be replaced or left as 
 they are, at the option of the next player. 
 
 21. It is foul, and the striker forfeits one point, if, while in 
 the act of striking, he has not at least one foot on the floor. 
 
 22. Should the striker, by a clear, fair stroke of the cue, 
 pocket a ball and, after the stroke, mcve, touch, or foul one 
 or more of the object-balls, he is entitled to the pocketed ball 
 and loses his hand only because of the foul, and the next 
 player plays. 
 
58 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 23. Should a ball that has come to a standstill move, with¬ 
 out apparent cause, while the player is preparing to strike, it 
 must be replaced. Should it move before he can stop his 
 stroke, it and all the other balls set in motion by the stroke 
 must be replaced, and the player shall repeat his stroke, inas¬ 
 much as, but for the moving of the ball, he might have counted 
 where he missed or missed where he counted. 
 
 [Note to Buie 25.—Should a ball after having come to a standstill and 
 then resting on the edge of a pocket fall into the pocket without being 
 hit by another ball, it must be replaced by the referee, or by the marker 
 through the direction of the referee. Should it so fall into a pocket 
 while the striker is in the act of taking aim, or should it so fall into the 
 pocket after the striker has delivered his stroke and before his ball, or 
 an object-ball set in motion by the stroke, hits said ball, it and all other 
 balls set in motion by the stroke must be replaced by the referee, or by 
 the marker through the direction of the referee, as near as possible to 
 their original positions, and the striker is entitled to play again. A ball 
 must be positively hit by another ball before it can be reckoned as a 
 pocketed ball, and should the vibration of the table, through the roll¬ 
 ing of the balls, or through atmospheric influences or any other causes 
 other than by being positively hit by another ball through a fair deliv¬ 
 ery of the cue, cause a ball resting on the edge of a pocket to fall into 
 it, that ball must be replaced by the referee or marker and cannot be 
 reckoned as a pocketed ball. 
 
 24. Should a player make three scratches or forfeitures of 
 points in succession he shall forfeit every ball remaining on 
 the table to his opponent, except as provided in Eule 2. 
 
 25. Under these rules no player is allowed to withdraw be¬ 
 fore the game is played out; by so doing, without sufficient 
 cause, he forfeits the game. 
 
 26. In case of a scratch or forfeiture the claim for such must 
 be put in before another strike is made, otherwise it cannot 
 be recorded against that player later in the game. 
 
 Notes to the Foregoing Eules. 
 
 The decision of the referee is final, but it might happen, 
 under extraordinary circumstances, that one of the players 
 should believe his rights to have been violated by the referee. 
 In such a case he must at once, and before more than one 
 stroke has been played, declare the cause of his grievance and 
 announce that he is playing the game out under protest. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 59 
 
 Then, should he lose the game, the subject of the grievance 
 is left to the decision of the experts mutually agreed upon. 
 
 The rules cf the Three-b ill Game of Billiards, when not con¬ 
 flicting with any of the foregoing rules, govern this game also. 
 
 THE GAME OF FIFTEEN-BALL POOL FOR THE 
 CHAMPIONSHIP. 
 
 The game of Fifteen-ball Pool is played with fifteen num¬ 
 bered balls, and one white b ill not numbered. The latter is the 
 cue-ball, and the player plays with it from within the string 
 at the head of the table, at the opening of the game, at any 
 of the numbered balls, and afterward as he finds it on the 
 table, his object being to pocket as many of the numbered 
 balls as he can, the number on each ball he pockets being 
 scored to his credit; so tmt not he who pockets the largest 
 number of balls, but he whose score, when added up, yields 
 the largest total, wins the game. The fifteen balls are num¬ 
 bered from one to fifteen, respectively, and are usually col¬ 
 ored. Before commencing the game these fifteen balls are 
 placed in the form of a triangle upon the table—a triangular 
 frame being employed for this purpose to insure correctness. 
 The ball numbered fifteen is so placed upon the table as to 
 form the apex of the triangle, pointing upward toward the 
 head of the table, and in forming the triangle the fifteen-ball 
 should rest as nearly as possible upon the spot known as the 
 deep-red spot in the Three- or Four-ball Games. The other 
 balls should have their places in the triangle so that the 
 highest numbers shall be nearest the apex, the lowest num¬ 
 bers forming the base. 
 
 The string-line occupies the same place on the table as it 
 does in the Four-ball Game. 
 
 The numbers on the balls pocketed count for the player 
 who pockets them fairly, and as the sum total of all the num¬ 
 bers on the fifteen balls amounts only to one hundred and 
 twenty, of which sixty-one is more than one-half, when only 
 two persons are playing whichever makes the latter number 
 first is the winner of the game. 
 
60 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND BOOK OF 
 
 Rules Governing all Contests. 
 
 1. Should the player making the opening stroke fail to make 
 
 ;at least two of the object-balls strike a cushion, or at least one 
 object-ball go into a pocket, he forfeits three points and the 
 next player plays. In the opening stroke all balls pocketed 
 count for the player, and he is not re quired to call any ball on 
 this stroke. ) 
 
 In match or tournament games, ^Ren on the opening stroke 
 the player fails to drive at least tw^ object balls to a cushion, 
 or to pocket at least one object-ball, the balls are set up again, 
 and he forfeits two scratches, or six points, and must continue 
 to play until he drives two or mori object-balls to a cushion, 
 or at least one object-ball to a pocket. For each failure so to 
 do he forfeits six points. 
 
 2. After the opening stroke each player must either pocket 
 a ball, make an object-ball strike y, cushion or the cue-ball 
 strike a cushion after contact with an object-ball, under pen¬ 
 alty of forfeiture of three points. Three forfeitures in suc¬ 
 cession lose the player making thdrn the game. 
 
 Should the striker pocket the cu^-ball during the game, and 
 by the same stroke fail to drive one or more balls against a 
 cushion or into a pocket, he forfeits three only for the pocket¬ 
 ing of the cue-ball. 
 
 3. When two players only are engaged in a game, and one 
 player’s score amounts to more than the aggregate numbers 
 on the balls credited to the other player, added to that remain¬ 
 ing on the table, the game is ended, the player whose score is 
 higher than this total wins. But when more than two players 
 are engaged the game is ended only when the aggregate of 
 numbers of the balls remaining on the table do not amount to 
 enough to tie or beat the next lowest score. It is the duty of 
 the game-keeper to proclaim it when a game is won. 
 
 4. A forfeiture of three points is deducted from the player’s 
 score for making a miss; pocketing his own ball; forcing his 
 own ball off the table; failure to make the opening stroke, as 
 provided in Rule 1; failure either to make an object ball strike 
 a cushion or go into a pocket, as provided in Rule 2; playing 
 out of his turn, if detected doing so before he has made more 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 61 
 
 than one counting stroke; striking the cue-ball more than 
 once; making a stroke when any of the balls are in motion; 
 failing to have at least one foot on the floor while in the act of 
 striking. 
 
 5. In a match or tournament game a tie game is reckoned 
 as void, and must be played over to determine the winner. 
 
 6. The rules of the Three-ball Carrom Game and of the 
 Game of Continuous Pool for the Championship, when not 
 conflicting with the above rules, govern this game also. 
 
 AMERICAN PYRAMID POOL. 
 
 The game of American Pyramid Pool is played with fifteen 
 balls, numbered from 1 to 15, respectively, and a white cue- 
 ball. The player opening the game plays from any point 
 inside the string, and after the opening shot plays with the 
 cue-ball as he finds it. Each ball counts one point, and in 
 match or two-hand games, the player first scoring eight balls 
 wins game. 
 
 The Rules for Play. 
 
 1. In the opening stroke the cue-ball, aimed direct or as the 
 result of a bank shot, must strike the pyramid with force suf¬ 
 ficient to cause at least two object-balls to touch a cushion, or 
 at least one object-ball to go into a pocket. Failure to do 
 either forfeits the stroke and one ball to the table. 
 
 In case of a forfeit by a player having no ball to his credit, 
 the first ball scored by him shall be placed on the deep-red 
 spot, or as near thereto as possible. All balls pocketed on the 
 opening stroke count, and need not be called. 
 
 In match or tournament games, when the player on the 
 opening stroke fails to drive at least two balls to a cushion or 
 one ball to a pocket, the balls are set up again, and the player 
 forfeits one ball from his score, and must continue to play un¬ 
 til he shall have made a legal leading stroke. 
 
62 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 2. After the opening stroke the player must call the number 
 of the ball he intends to pocket, but need not call the pocket. 
 Should the called ball not be pocketed, no ball pocketed on 
 that stroke is counted, but must be placed on the deep-red 
 spot, or as near as possible on a line below it; the player’s 
 hand is out, but he incurs no penalty. Should more than one 
 ball be called, and one or more thus called should not be pock¬ 
 eted, none can be counted. Failure to hit a called ball 
 involves no penalty, provided any other ball be hit. 
 
 3. One ball is forfeited if after the opening stroke the player 
 fail to pocket a ball, or fail to make at least one object-ball, or 
 the cue-ball, after hitting an object-ball, strike a cushion. 
 Should the player also pocket the cue-ball after failure as 
 above described, he forfeits but one ball on the stroke. 
 
 4. When one or more balls, in addition to the ball called, 
 are pocketed, the player is entitled to all pocketed. 
 
 5. When more than two players are engaged, the game is 
 ended when the balls remaining on the table are not sufficient 
 to tie the next lowest score; and all that may be depending 
 upon the game shall be decided in accordance with the stand¬ 
 ing of each player when pool is called. 
 
 6. A player forfeits one ball for making a miss, pocketing 
 the cue-ball, forcing the cue-ball off the table, for failing as 
 described in Eule 3, and for striking the cue-ball twice. 
 
 7. It is a stroke, and one ball is forfeited, if the striker touch 
 the cue-ball with his cue and make a miss, or touch it with his 
 clothing, or any other object. 
 
 8. A stroke made when any ball is in motion is foul, one 
 ball is forfeited, and the incoming striker may either have the 
 balls replaced or play as he finds them. 
 
 9. When the cue-ball is struck twice, the balls disturbed in 
 consequence of the second stroke shall be replaced, or the in¬ 
 coming striker, if he choose, may play as he finds them ; the 
 striker forfeits one ball. 
 
 10. The Eules of Continuous Pool for the Championship, 
 and of the Three-ball Carrom Game, except as above specified, 
 govern this game also. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 63 
 
 THE LAWS OF ENGLISH PYRAMIDS. 
 
 The English balk semi-circle is used in this game . 
 
 Rules. 
 
 1. This game may be played with any number of balls, 
 generally sixteen, viz.: fifteen red, and one white. 
 
 2. In “setting the balls” at the commencement of the 
 game they are placed on the table in the form of a triangle 
 or pyramid, the first or head ball to stand on the red-ball 
 spot, the semicircle, or balk for the cue-ball, being from 
 twenty-one to twenty-three inches in diameter. 
 
 3. If more than two persons play, and their number is odd* 
 each plays alternately—the rotation to be decided by string¬ 
 ing. The player pocketing the greatest number of balls to 
 receive from each of the other players (a certain sum per ball 
 having been agreed upon) the difference between their lives 
 and his. 
 
 4. If the number of players be even they may form sides, 
 when the partners either play alternately or go out upon a 
 hazard, miss, etc., being made, as previously agreed. 
 
 5. The players string for choice of lead ; then the leader 
 places his ball (the white) within the string or balk semicircle, 
 and plays at the pyramid. 
 
 6. The next striker plays the white ball from the place 
 where it rests after his opponent has made his stroke ; but if 
 the ball should be off the table, it must be played from the 
 string or balk, as at commencement. 
 
 7. None but winning hazards count toward the striker’s 
 game. One point or life is reckoned for each winning hazard, 
 and he who pockets the greatest number of balls wins. 
 
 8. The player loses a point if he pocket the white ball or 
 forces it off the table, if he give a miss, or run a coup, i.e., 
 runs the cue-ball into a pocket or off the table without hitting 
 a ball. 
 
 9. For every losing hazard, i.e., pocketing cue-ball, miss, 
 or coup, made by the player a point is to be taken from his 
 score by a ball being replaced on the pyramid spot; but if 
 that spot be occupied the ball must be placed immediately 
 behind it. 
 
 10. If the striker pocket his own ball, or jump it off the 
 
64 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 table, and by the same stroke pocket one or more of the pyra¬ 
 mid balls, or jump them off the table, he gains nothing by 
 the stroke ; the pyramid ball so pocketed must be replaced 
 on the spot, together with one of the balls previously holed by 
 the player. 
 
 11. Should the striker, losing a ball by forfeit, not have 
 taken one, the first he pockets must be placed on the table, 
 as in Rule 9 ; should he not take one during the game, he 
 must pay the price of a life for each ball so forfeited, or the 
 number of balls which lie may owe is deducted from his 
 score in computing the balls at the finish of the game. 
 
 12. If the (white) playing-ball touch a (colored) pyramid 
 ball the striker may score all the balls he pockets, but he can¬ 
 not give a miss without forfeiting a point. 
 
 13. Should the striker move any ball in taking aim or strik 
 ing, he loses all he might otherwise have gained by the stroke. 
 
 14. If the striker force one or more of the pyramid balls 
 off the table he scores nothing, and the ball must be placed 
 upon the spot. 
 
 15. If the game be played with an odd number (fifteen) of 
 pyramid balls, the last hazard counts two. [In England six¬ 
 teen balls are frequently used, the sixteenth being placed in 
 the centre of the base of the pyramid, directly in the rear of 
 the head ball.] 
 
 16. When all the colored balls but one are pocketed, the 
 player who made the last hazard continues to play with the 
 white ball, and his opponent with the red, each playing alter¬ 
 nately, as at single pool. 
 
 17. When only two balls remain on the table, with two 
 persons playing, should the striker pocket his own ball or 
 make a miss, the game is finished, and the opponent adds one 
 to his score. If there are more than two players, and they 
 not partners, the striker places a ball on the spot. 
 
 18. The balk or string is no protection to the non-striker’s 
 ball. The player whose ball is in hand can play from the 
 semicircle at any ball on the table. 
 
 19. All disputes are to be decided by the marker ; or, if he 
 be interested in the game, as a player or interested party, by 
 the majority of the company. 
 

 BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 C5- 
 
 CHICAGO POOL. 
 
 This game is played with the numbered pool balls from I 
 to 15 and a white cue-ball, as in Fifteen-ball Pool, the object 
 being to play upon and pocket the balls in their numerical 
 order. 
 
 The table is laid out for the game by placing the one ball 
 against the end cushion at the first right-hand diamond sight 
 at the foot of the table, as seen in the diagram ; the two-ball 
 is placed at the centre diamond sight on same cushion ; the 
 remaining thirteen balls are placed in the order of their num¬ 
 bers at the succeeding diamond sights, as shown in the dia¬ 
 gram. All things being equal, it is immaterial which way 
 the numbers run in setting the balls, for they may also be set 
 so that the one-ball is placed on that diamond sight which, 
 when standing at the head of the table and looking toward 
 the foot or lower end, appears as the left-hand diamond 
 sight on the end rail, with the three-ball placed at the right,, 
 etc. 
 
 The three sights on the end rail at head of the table are 
 not occupied by any ball. 
 
 In opening the game the order of play is determined by 
 throwing out small numbered balls, as in Fifteen-ball Pool, 
 
66 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 and he whose first play it may be strikes the cue-ball from 
 any point within the string line. 
 
 The opening stroke must be to strike the one-ball. If that 
 ball is holed it is placed to the credit of the player, and he 
 continues his hand until he fails to score, but in continuing 
 he must play each time upon the ball bearing the lowest 
 number on the table. After playing upon that ball, however, 
 should any other be pocketed by the same stroke, irrespective 
 of its number, it shall be placed to the player’s credit so 
 pocketing it. 
 
 If the line of aim at the ball required to be hit is covered 
 by another ball, the player may resort to a bank play or 
 mass<3, etc., but should he fail to hit the required ball he for¬ 
 feits three, receiving a scratch. 
 
 Should a ball be holed by a foul stroke it is replaced upon 
 the spot it occupied at the opening of the game, but should 
 it be the 8, 9, 10, or 11 ball so holed, they being within the 
 string, and the cue-ball in hand, then the balls specified are 
 to be placed upon the pyramid or red-ball spot, or should 
 that be occupied, as near to it as is possible, as in Fifteen-ball 
 Pool. 
 
 The player having the lowest aggregate score is required 
 to pay for general refreshment for all in the game. The 
 player having the second lowest score pays for the game. 
 
 The rules of Fifteen-ball Pool govern Chicago Pool, except 
 where they conflict with the foregoing rules. 
 
 TWO BALL POOL. 
 
 This game, about 40 years ago, was universally in 
 vogue in this country. It is played on a pocket table, and is 
 opened by throwing out the small, numbered balls to 
 determine the order of play as in Fifteen-ball Pool, and any 
 number of persons may engage in the game. Two balls only, 
 a red and white, are used to play the game, and the striker 
 plays with that ball which was the object-ball in the preceding 
 stroke, except when a ball has been pocketed. In the latter 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 67 
 
 case there must be a new lead, the next striker leading with 
 the red ball, and being followed with the white ball from the 
 string. 
 
 Rules. 
 
 1. Player No. 1 must lead with the red, but has the privilege 
 of spotting his ball, in case the lead does not please him. But 
 if, in a pushing lead, he does not withdraw his mace or cue 
 from the ball before it passes the middle pockets, the stroke 
 is foul, and player No. 2 has the option of playing at the ball 
 as it is left, having the lead played over again, or causing the 
 red to be spotted on the pool spot. 
 
 2. Each player has one, two, or more lives, as may be 
 agreed on. When he forfeits these he is said to be dead, 
 except he obtains what is called a “privilege,” meaning one 
 chance more. 
 
 3. This privilege, except where all the players consent to 
 its remaining’open, must be taken by the first man “ killed 
 and the person so killed must determine whether he will ac¬ 
 cept it or not at once, before another stroke is played. [This 
 is the strict rule of the game, and as such may be enforced; 
 but as a general practice the privilege remains open until 
 taken up by some one of the players.] 
 
 4. After a game has been commenced, no one can take a 
 bali, except with the consent of all who are already in the 
 game ; and after the privilege is gone, no stranger can be ad¬ 
 mitted to the game under any circumstances. 
 
 5. Any person in the pool whose lives are not exhausted, 
 and who thinks a hazard may be made in a certain position, 
 can claim the stroke, or “take the hazard,” as it is technically 
 called, in case the striker does not choose to risk that particu¬ 
 lar stroke himself. Should the person who takes the hazard 
 fail to execute it, he loses a life. 
 
 6. The player has the best right to take a hazard, and must 
 be marked if he fails to pocket the ball, in case any other 
 player in the pool has offered to take it. 
 
 7. In playing out of his turn the player loses a life, unless 
 he pockets the object-ball, in which case the ball pocketed 
 loses a life, and the next in rotation to the person who ought 
 to have played plays. 
 
68 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 8. But if one player misdirect another by calling on him to 
 play when it is not his turn, the misdirector, and not the mis¬ 
 directed, loses a life, and the next in turn must lead with the 
 red as usual. 
 
 9. Whoever touches any of the balls while running forfeits 
 a life. This rule is invariable, and can only be relaxed by the 
 consent of all the players. 
 
 10. No player can own or have an interest in more than 
 one ball at a time ; nor can he buy another ball, nor own an 
 interest in another ball, while his own ball is either alive or 
 privileged. 
 
 11. After the number which he drew is dead, he may buy 
 that of another player, and take his place ; but if the seller 
 only dispose of an interest in his ball, he must either continue 
 to play it himself or sell out his ball in toto , in which latter 
 case any member of the original pool may buy and finish out 
 the game. 
 
 12. But no person not included in the original pool can be 
 permitted to buy in and play ; though outsiders may purchase 
 an interest in a ball, still permitting the original member of 
 the pool to play it. 
 
 18. If the leader sells his number upon the lead, the pur¬ 
 chaser must either allow the lead made to stand or the ball 
 may be spotted at his option. 
 
 14. A lead once made cannot be changed, even when the 
 next player sells his ball to a third party ; but the leader has, 
 at all times, the option of having his ball spotted. 
 
 15. No player can strike twice in succession under any cir¬ 
 cumstances, except when there are only two players left, and 
 one of them has holed his opponent’s ball. In that case the 
 person who has pocketed the ball must lead for his adversary 
 to play on. 
 
 16. When only two players are left, and either of them 
 wishes to divide or sell, his opponent shall have the first 
 right of buying, provided he offers as much as is offered by 
 any of the others who are entitled (by having been in the 
 original pool) to purchase. But should he not offer as 
 much, then the ball may be sold to the highest duly-qualified 
 bidder. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 69 
 
 17. If a player, playing on the lead, places his ball outside 
 of the string, and has his attention called to the fact by the 
 leader before the time of striking his ball, it is optional with 
 the leader either to compel him to play the stroke over again, 
 or let the balls remain as they are. 
 
 18. If it be found that the marker has not thrown out balls 
 enough for the number of players at the commencement of 
 the game, his mistake will not alter the conditions of the pool. 
 The balls must be again shaken up and thrown over, and then 
 the game commences. 
 
 With the foregoing exceptions, the rules of the American 
 Four-ball Game may be applied to Two-ball Pool. 
 
 FORTY-ONE POOL. 
 
 Forty-one Pool is played with a regular Fifteen-ball Pool 
 set of balls, the object of play being to pocket a sufficient 
 number of the pool balls which added to the private small 
 ball shall score exactly 41. 
 
 The Rules. 
 
 1. The order of playing is determined through throwing 
 out the small numbered balls as in regular ball pool. The 
 balls which determine the private ball of the players are then 
 thrown out and are generally numbered from 6 to 18. No 
 one other than the player is supposed to know the number 
 of the private ball. 
 
 2. Each player plays in turn, one shot to an inning, count¬ 
 ing all the balls he may get on that shot—the number on 
 each ball being added to the number of his small balL 
 
 3. When exactly 41 is made, the player or game-keeper 
 declares pool, and the player the most distant from 41 is de¬ 
 feated. 
 
 4. Pool is also declared when all balls are pocketed from 
 the table. The nearest to 41 is the winner ; the most dis¬ 
 tant is the loser. 
 
 5. A miss or pocketing the white ball is a scratch, and the 
 player so doing owes a ball to the table, besides what he may 
 
70 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND BOOK OF 
 
 have scored on that shot. If he has more than one ball in his 
 rack, he can spot the one he prefers ; if he has none, spot the 
 first one which he may pocket. Should he pocket more than 
 one ball on his next shot he can spot the one he elects. 
 
 6. If a player gets more than 41, it is a burst, and all the 
 balls he has scored must be spotted ; and the last ball pock¬ 
 eted must be placed nearest to and in the rear of the spot, 
 etc. In such cases, the player can have a new small ball if he 
 elects. 
 
 7. In playing for safety, a player must cause the white ball 
 to go to the cushion before or after hitting a ball; failing to 
 do so, he is penalized a scratch. 
 
 8. A player having no ball in his rack is worse off than one 
 with a ball, regardless of its number or the number of the 
 small ball he may have, and a player owing a ball is still worse 
 off. A player making a burst and not declaring it must be 
 credited with no ball. 
 
 The rules governing the American Four-ball Game of Bill¬ 
 iards, not conflicting with the above, govern this game also, 
 push shots and frozen balls excepted. 
 
 HIGH-LOW-JACK-GAME. 
 
 This game is played with a set of balls the same as used in 
 Fifteen-ball Pool. 
 
 Any number of persons may play, the order of play being 
 determined b> the rolling of the small numbered balls. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 71 
 
 The fifteen-ball is High ; the one-ball is Low ; the nine-ball 
 is Jack ; and the highest aggregate is Game. Seven points 
 generally constitute a game. 
 
 In cases where players have one and two to go to finish 
 game, the first balls holed count out first, be they High, Low, 
 or Jack. 
 
 In setting up the pyramid the three counting balls—High, 
 Low, Jack—are placed in the centre, with High at the head of 
 the three named balls, the other balls as in regular Fifteen- 
 ball Pool. 
 
 When players have each one to go, instead of setting up an 
 entire frame of pyramids, a ball is placed at the foot of the 
 table, in direct line with the spots, and at a distance from the 
 lower cushion equal to the diameter of another of the pool 
 balls. This ball must be pocketed by banking it to one or 
 more cushions. The player who pockets the ball wins the 
 game. 
 
 The rules of the game of Fifteen-ball Pool for the Cham¬ 
 pionship, not conflicting with any of the foregoing rules, gov¬ 
 ern this game also. 
 
72 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 COLOR-BALL POOL. 
 
 The White Ball is spotted. 
 Red Ball plays upon.. 
 Yellow “ 
 
 Green “ 
 
 Brown “ 
 
 Blue “ 
 
 Pink cc 
 
 Spot-white <c 
 Spot-red “ 
 Spot-yellow “ 
 
 Spot-green “ 
 Spot-brown “ 
 Spot-blue “ 
 
 White “ 
 
 White. 
 
 Red. 
 
 . Yellow. 
 
 .Green. 
 
 . Brown. 
 
 Blue. 
 
 , Pink. 
 
 . Spot-white. 
 
 . Spot-red. 
 
 . Spot-yellow. 
 
 . Spot-green. 
 .Spot-brown, and 
 . Spot-blue. 
 
 The English balk semicircle is used in this game . 
 
 Rules. 
 
 1. When colored balls are used, the players must play pro¬ 
 gressively, as the colors are placed on the pool marking- 
 board, the top color being No. 1. 
 
 2. Each player has three lives at starting. No. 1 places his 
 ball on the “ winning and losing ” spot, No. 2 plays at No. 1, 
 No. 3 at No. 2, and so on—each person playing at the last 
 ball, unless the striker’s ball be in hand, when he plays at the 
 nearest ball. 
 
 3. When a striker loses a life the next in rotation plays at 
 the ball nearest to his own ; but if this player’s ball be in 
 band, he plays at the ball nearest to the centre of the balk¬ 
 line, whether it be in or out of balk. 
 
 4. When any doubt arises as to the nearest ball, the mark¬ 
 er measures the distance, and the player strikes at the ball 
 declared to be nearest his own. 
 
 5. The balk is no protection. 
 
 6. The player loses a life by pocketing his own ball off an¬ 
 other, by running a coup, by missing the ball played on, by 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 73 
 
 forcing Iris ball off the table, by playing with the wrong ball, 
 by playing at the wrong ball, by playing out of his turn, by 
 striking the wrong ball, or by having his ball pocketed by the 
 next striker. 
 
 7. Should the striker pocket the ball he plays at, and by 
 the same stroke pocket his own or force it over the table, he 
 loses a life and not the person whose ball he pocketed. 
 
 8. Should the player strike the wrong ball, he pays the 
 same forfeit to the person whose ball he should have played* 
 at as he would have done if he had pocketed himself. 
 
 9. If the striker miss the ball he ought to play at, and by 
 the same stroke pocket another ball, he loses a life, and not 
 the person whose ball he pocketed ; in which case the striker’s 
 ball must be taken up, and both balls remain in hand until it 
 be their several turns to play. 
 
 10. If the player inquire as to which is his ball, or if it be 
 his turn to play, the marker or the players must give him the 
 information sought. 
 
 11. If the striker, while taking aim, inquire which is the 
 ball he ought to play at, and should be misinformed by the 
 marker or by any of the company, he does not lose a life. His 
 ball must in this case be replaced and the stroke played 
 again. 
 
 12. When a ball or balls touch the striker’s ball, or are in 
 line between it and the ball he has to play at, so that it will 
 prevent him hitting any part of the object-ball , such ball or 
 balls must be taken up until the stroke be played, and, after 
 the balls have ceased running, they must be replaced. 
 
 13. If a ball or balls are in the way of a striker’s cue, so 
 that he cannot play at his ball, he can have them taken up. 
 
 14. When the striker takes a life, he continues to play on 
 as long as he can pocket a ball, or until the balls are all off 
 the table, in which latter case he places his own ball on the 
 spot as at the commencement. 
 
 15. The first player who loses his three lives is entitled 
 to purchase, or star, by paying into the pool a sum equal to 
 his original stake, for which he receives lives equal in number 
 to the lowest number of lives on the board. 
 
 16. If the player first out refuse to star, the second player 
 out may do so ; but if the second refuse, the third may star, and 
 
71 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 so on, until only two players are left in the pool, when the 
 privilege of starring ceases. 
 
 17. Only one star is allowed in a pool. 
 
 18. If the striker move his own or any other ball while in 
 the act of striking , the stroke is foul ; and if, by the same 
 stroke, he pocket a ball or force it off the table, the owner of 
 that ball does not lose a life, and the ball so pocketed must be 
 placed on its original spot. But if by that foul stroke the 
 player pocket his own ball or force it off the table, he loses 
 a life. 
 
 19. If the striker’s ball touch the one he has to play at, he 
 is at liberty either to play at it or any other ball on the table, 
 and such stroke is not to be considered foul; in such a case, 
 however, the striker loses a life by running his ball into a 
 pocket or forcing it over the table. 
 
 20. If, after making a hazard, the striker takes up his 
 ball, or stops it before it has done running, he cannot claim 
 the life for the ball pocketed. 
 
 21. If, before a star, two or more balls, each having one 
 life, are pocketed by the same stroke, the owner of the first 
 ball struck can star ; but if he refuse, the other player whose 
 ball was pocketed may star. 
 
 22. Should the striker’s ball stop on the place from which 
 a ball has been taken up, the ball which has been removed 
 must remain in hand until the spot is unoccupied, when it is 
 to be replaced. 
 
 23. Should the striker’s ball miss the ball played at, no 
 person except the striker is allowed to stop the ball till it has 
 ceased running or struck another ball. 
 
 24. Should the striker have his next player’s ball removed, 
 and his own ball stop on the spot it occupied, the next player 
 must give a miss from balk, for which miss he does not lose 
 a life. 
 
 25. When a ball has been taken up, and any other than 
 the next player’s ball stop on the spot it occupied, the ball so 
 taken up must remain in hand till it can be replaced. But 
 if it be the turn of the ball in hand to play before the one oc¬ 
 cupying its proper place, the latter must be taken up till 
 there be room to replace it. 
 
 26. If the corner of the cushion should prevent the striker 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 75 
 
 from playing in a direct line, he can have any ball removed 
 for the purpose of playing at the object-ball from a cushion. 
 
 27. When three players, each with one life, remain in a 
 pool, and the striker make a miss, the other two divide with¬ 
 out a stroke. 
 
 1 28. Neither of the last two players can star, but if they are 
 
 left with an equal number of lives each they may divide the 
 pool; the striker, however, is entitled to his stroke before 
 the division. 
 
 29. All disputes are to be decided by the marker ; but if 
 he be interested in the game, they shall then be settled by a 
 majority of the players. 
 
 In public rooms the charge for the table is deducted from 
 each pool. 
 
 SKITTLE POOL. 
 
 Directions for Placing the Spots on the Table . 
 
 In placing the spots on a 5 x 10 table first measure three 
 and a half inches from the edge of the cushion on both sides of 
 the table, at the head and foot, then take a chalked cord, which, 
 by holding tight from points thus measured and snapping, 
 
76 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 will give a perfectly straight line. Then divide these lines into 
 four equal parts from the straight line to the edge of the 
 cushion at the foot, which will make the distance between the 
 pins twenty-one inches. The white pin(six) is three inches 
 from the dark-red spot, and the black pin one and three-quarters 
 inch from that. The black pin on the right is one and three- 
 quarters inch from the white (eight). The white (ten) and 
 black pins on the string-line are seven inches from the spot. 
 The spots marked with circles in diagram are for the white 
 and spot balls. 
 
 N. -B.—Be particular to measure from centre to centre of 
 spots and not from the outside. 
 
 On a x 9 table the pins are placeed in the same position, 
 excepting the distance between the pins on right and left 
 side is eighteen and three-quarter inches, and the distance 
 between white (ten) and black pin from the spot is six 
 inches. 
 
 In putting on the spots hammer lightly. 
 
 In the diagram the crosses represent the position of the 
 black pins. 
 
 Rules. 
 
 1. The game is played with ten white pins and three black 
 pins. 
 
 2. Three balls are used, two white and one red. 
 
 3. Any number of persons can play, and the rotation is 
 decided as in ordinary ball pool. 
 
 » 4. The game is fifty points or more. 
 
 5. Each white pin knocked down by any ball which has 
 struck another ball first counts a certain number, from three 
 to ten. (The value of the various pins is shown in diagram.) 
 
 6. The red ball is spotted at the foot of the table adjoining 
 white pin (six). 
 
 7. The first player is bound to play at the red ball with the 
 spot ball, which is always spotted on the right-hand side. 
 
 8. The second player is bound to play with the white ball, 
 which is always spotted on the left-hand side, but he may 
 play at any ball. 
 
 9. If the white ball has been displaced from its spot by 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 77 
 
 the first player, then the second player may play with any 
 ball. 
 
 10. When the red ball is on its spot no player may play 
 with it but only at it. 
 
 11. At other time players may play with either of the three 
 balls. 
 
 12. If a player knocks down a black pin the whole of his 
 score is rubbed out, and he must either retire from the game 
 or pay a certain amount to the pool (to be fixed before play is 
 commenced) for the privilege of continuing. This is then 
 called bursting. 
 
 13. If the first player knocks down a black pin at his first 
 stroke it does not count against him, but he cannot, in that 
 case, score anything from the white pins he may knock down. 
 
 14. If during play any ball stops on the spot which should 
 be occupied by a pin the ball must be replaced on the spot it 
 originally occupied when play commenced. 
 
 15. A player may give two consecutive misses, but no 
 more, if he gives a miss a third time it must be considered a 
 burst. 
 
 16. No player can have more than one stroke in succes¬ 
 sion. 
 
 17. Pins knocked down must be replaced before the next 
 player strikes. A pin is considered “ down ” if it is entirely 
 off its spot, or is leaning against a ball, cushion, or another 
 pin. 
 
 18. Playing out of turn subjects the player to a loss of the 
 points so made. 
 
 19. Should the three balls be so covered by the pins as to 
 prevent their being played at, the red can be spotted after 
 one miss is given. 
 
 20. Pushing the cue-ball is foul, knocking down a white 
 pin before touching a ball is foul, and playing when the pins 
 are not in position is foul. The rules as to foul shots in the 
 Three-ball Game govern this game also. 
 
78 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 KELLY POOL. 
 
 1. The game of Kelly Pool is played with fifteen numbered 
 balls, and one white ball not numbered. The latter is the 
 cue-ball, and the player plays with it from within the string 
 at the head of the table, at the opening of the game, at any of 
 the numbered balls, and afterward as he finds them on the 
 table, but he must break or burst the pyramid on the first 
 shot. 
 
 2. When the pyramid is arranged ready for the commence¬ 
 ment, the marker or attendant throws each player two small 
 numbered balls from a shake bottle. The first one indicates 
 the rotation of the player while playing, and the second one 
 the number of points in the game, to which he has to add un¬ 
 til he secures thirty-one, which is game. Thus, if the second 
 small ball received by a player is marked No. 9, he must gain 
 twenty-two points from the balls on the table to secure the 
 necessary number for game. Whoever first obtains an aggre¬ 
 gate of thirty-one wins the game, and whatever stakes may 
 be involved. The second small ball received by each player 
 must be placed in a cup or receptacle as in pin-pool. 
 
 3. If a player holds balls whose aggregate number, when 
 added to the number on the small ball which he drew, ex¬ 
 ceeds a total of thirty-one, he is then “ burst ” and must drop 
 out of the game, unless a “ privilege ” is claimed. If this 
 claim is made it must be before another stroke is made, as 
 otherwise he can only re-enter the game by the consent of all 
 the players. 
 
 4. .Players having “ burst ” can claim a “ privilege ” as often 
 as they “ burst,” and when “ privilege ” is granted, the player 
 draws a new small ball from the marker, and has then the 
 option either of keeping that which he originally drew, or 
 accepting the new one then drawn ; but one or the other he 
 must return, or else he cannot, under any circumstances, be 
 entitled to the pool. 
 
 5. When a player “ bursts ” and a “ privilege ” is taken, the 
 player so “bursting” retains his original number in the 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 79 
 
 order of its play. Thus, if there are ten players, and No. 2 
 “bursts/’ he appears again under privilege as No. 2. 
 
 6. If a player makes a scratch, and in doing so the object 
 or any other ball other than the cue ball goes into a pocket, 
 he shall forfeit three points from his score. The ball so holed 
 must be spotted back of the pyramid, if that still remains 
 partially intact, or upon the spot, if the balls are scattered, or 
 immediately following any ball that may be upon the spot at 
 the time. 
 
 7. If a player has made thirty-one he must proclaim it be¬ 
 fore the next stroke is made ; for which purpose a reasonable 
 delay must be allowed for calculation between each play, 
 more especially in the latter portion of the game. But if a 
 player has made thirty-one, and fails to announce it before 
 next play (a reasonable time having passed), then he cannot 
 proclaim the fact until the rotation of play again comes 
 round to him. In the meanwhile, if any other player makes 
 the number and proclaims it properly, he is entitled to the 
 pool, wholly irrespective of the fact that the number was 
 made, though not proclaimed, before. 
 
 8. A player cannot use any count he may have made by 
 playing out of his turn ; but if he has made balls enough to 
 “ burst ” him by such stroke, the loss is established, unless in 
 cases where he w T as called on to play by some other of the 
 players, or the marker, who either believed or pretended it 
 was his turn. In such case he cannot be “burst” by his 
 stroke, and he whose turn it was to play, plays next in order. 
 
 9. A player taking a “ privilege ” is entitled to a stroke to 
 secure his stake to the pool. 
 
 10. It is the duty of each player to see that he is credited 
 with the proper number of points by the marker after each 
 stroke, and no claim can be allowed after a succeeding stroke 
 has been made without the consent of all the pla} T ers. 
 
 11. The game-keeper shall collect the pool and make up 
 the game, deal out the small balls to the players, see that the 
 balls are placed properly in position, and that there are no 
 more small balls out than there are players in the pool, and if 
 any ball or balls are missing, to proclaim the number or num¬ 
 bers to the players, as the pool cannot be won by such balls ; 
 call out each number in its turn to the players, and proclaim, 
 
80 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 loud enough for him to hear it, the number the player already 
 counts from balls holed. 
 
 12. No person is considered in the game unless his pool be 
 paid in. 
 
 13. A ball whose centre is on the string-line must be re¬ 
 garded as within the line. 
 
 14. If the player pocket one or more of the object-balls, 
 and his own ball goes into a pocket, or off the table from the 
 stroke, he cannot score for the numbered balls, which must 
 be placed on the spot known as the deep-red spot, or, if it be 
 occupied, as nearly below it as possible on a line with that 
 spot, the highest numbered balls being placed the nearest 
 and he forfeits three for pocketing his own ball, or driving it 
 off the table, or missing all balls. 
 
 15. A ball going into a pocket and rebounding again upon 
 the table is to be regarded in the same light as if it had 
 struck the cushion, and is not to be counted as a pocketed 
 ball. 
 
 16. The rules governing championship fifteen-ball-pool and 
 pin-pool, when they do not conflict with the foregoing rules, 
 will govern all other points that may arise in the game. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 81 
 
 BOTTLE POOL. 
 
 The game of Bottle Pool is played on a pool table with one 
 white ball, the 1 and 2 ball, and pool-bottle. The 1 and 2 
 balls must be spotted, respectively, at the foot of the table, at 
 the left and right diamond nearest each pocket, and the pool- 
 bottle is placed standing on its neck on the spot in the centre 
 of the table, and when it falls it must be set up, if possible* 
 where it rests. 
 
 Counting. 
 
 Carrom on the two object-balls counts 1 point; Pocketing the 
 1 ball counts 1 point; Pocketing the 2 ball counts 2 points; 
 Carrom from ball and upsetting bottle counts 5 points. 
 
 Bules. 
 
 1. Any number of persons can play, and the rotation of the 
 players is decided as in ordinary pool. 
 
 2. The game consists of 31 points. 
 
 3. Player No. 1 must play with the white ball from any 
 point within the string at the head of the table, at either the 
 1 or 2 ball at his option. 
 
 4. The player having the least number of points at the 
 finish of the game shall be adjudged the loser. 
 
 5. The player who leads must play at and strike one of the 
 object-balls before he can score a carrom on the pool-bottle. 
 
 6. A player who makes more than 31 points is burst, and 
 must start his string anew ; all that he makes in excess of 31 
 points count on his new string, and the next player plays. 
 
 7. If a player carrom on the bottle from either of the ob¬ 
 ject-balls, in such a way as to seat the bottle on its base, he 
 wins the game, without further play. 
 
 8. Should the 1 or 2 ball in any way, during the stroke, 
 touch the bottle and the bottle is in the same play knocked 
 over or stood on its base by the cue-ball, the stroke does not 
 count. 
 
 9. If the player forces the bottle off the table or into a 
 pocket, the bottle must be spotted on its proper spot in the 
 centre of the table, the player loses his shot and forfeits one 
 point, and the next player plays. 
 
82 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 10. The player must play with the tip or point of his 
 cue. 
 
 11. After a ball has been pocketed, if it be the 1 ball it 
 must be spotted on the red-ball spot at the foot of the table ; 
 if that be occupied the ball shall then be spotted at the 1-ball 
 spot at the diamond ; if that be occupied it shall be spotted 
 at the 2-ball diamond. 
 
 12. The player making a foul stroke shall lose his shot, and 
 shall also forfeit one point, which must be deducted from his 
 string. 
 
 (1) A foul stroke shall be when the player misses both ob¬ 
 ject-balls. (2) When the player misses both balls, and knocks 
 down the bottle. (3) When the player knocks down the 
 bottle with the object-ball, his cue, his hand, or with his cloth¬ 
 ing. (4) When the cue-ball is forced off the table or into a 
 pocket. (5) When the bottle is forced off the table or into a 
 pocket. (6) W 7 hen the player knocks down the bottle with 
 the cue-ball before coming in contact with an object-ball. 
 (7) If the player has not at least one foot touching the floor. 
 
 13. Whenever the bottle is knocked over and cannot be 
 spotted on its neck without coming in contact with an object- 
 ball, it shall then be spotted on its proper spot; if that be 
 occupied it shall then be spotted on the red-ball spot; if that 
 be occupied, on the white-ball spot. 
 
 14. When a player in playing knocks the bottle off the table or 
 onto a cushion with one of the object-balls, the player does not 
 forfeit a point, but forfeits his shot and the next player plays. 
 
 15. Whenever the bottle-spot is occupied by an object-ball, 
 the bottle shall be spotted on the red-ball spot; if that be oc 
 cupied, on the white-ball spot. 
 
 16. If a player has made thirty-one points he must proclaim 
 it before the next stroke is made, for which purpose a reason¬ 
 able delay must be allowed for calculation, especially in the 
 latter portion of the game ; but if a player has made thirty- 
 one points and fails to announce it before the next play, he 
 then cannot proclaim the fact until the rotation of play again 
 comes round to him ; in the meanwhile, if any other player 
 makes thirty-one points and proclaims it properly, he is 
 entitled to the pool, wholly irrespective of the fact that the 
 number was made, though not proclaimed before. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 83 
 
 When played on a carrom table a white cue-ball and two red 
 balls are commonly used, and except as to balls pocketed the 
 counts and rules are the same as when played on a pocket 
 table. 
 
 PIN POOL. 
 
 The table for the "game of Pin Pool is provided with two 
 white balls and one red ball, and five wooden pins set in dia¬ 
 mond shape, these pins having a value according to the spots 
 they occupy. The pin spots on the table are shown in the 
 following diagram: 
 
 4 * 
 
 3 * 5 * 2 * 
 
 r 
 
 V 
 
 The centre, or 5 pin, is black, and the other pins of light, 
 natural wood. Numbers for the outside pins should be chalk¬ 
 ed on the cloth. The red ball occupies its natural spot as in 
 the three-ball game, and the second white ball occupies a 
 spot, called the pin pool spot, at the foot of the table, 3 inches 
 from the centre diamond on the end rail. The pin spots are 
 placed a sufficient distance apart so that a ball may pass be¬ 
 tween without touching the pins. After the order of play has 
 been determined, as in Fifteen-ball Pool, each player receives 
 a small numbered ball, the number on which should be 
 known only to himself. Pool consists in knocking down pins of 
 a value which, when added to the number on the concealed ball, 
 makes a total of 31. For example, a player drawing the 16 
 ball needs 15 for pool. The player first getting and proclaim¬ 
 ing 31 wins the pool. 
 
 1. Carroms from ball to ball count nothing. For a clean 
 miss or a ball jumped off the table there is no forfeit other 
 
84 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 than the stroke itself. In such case the ball is placed on the 
 pin-pool spot at the foot of the table, or, if this spot be oc¬ 
 cupied, then on the nearest unoccupied spot. 
 
 2. The player leading off plays from any point within the 
 string, and may play upon either red or white ball, or, in lieu 
 of any other stroke he may place the cue-ball upon the string 
 spot. 
 
 Counting Strokes. 
 
 3. Succeeding players may play with and upon either ball. 
 A counting stroke is made either by the cue ball carroming 
 from an object-ball on the pins, or by the driving of an object- 
 ball into the pins. 
 
 4. Pins knocked down (except as provided in rule 3) do 
 not count; the pins are replaced, and the player’s ball is 
 placed on the pin-pool spot at the foot of the table, or, if this 
 spot be occupied, then upon the nearest unoccupied spot. 
 Provided, that when balls are in contact, (“frozen”) the player 
 may play with either ball so touching, and play direct at the 
 pins, and any count so made is good. 
 
 Natural, or Ranche. 
 
 5. When on one stroke, by the aid of the cue ball or object- 
 balls, the four outside pins are knocked down and the centre 
 pin is left standing, it is called a Natural, or Ranche, and the 
 player making the stroke wins the pool regardless of the 
 count previously to his credit. 
 
 Conditions as to Bursts. 
 
 6. When a player has knocked down pins which, added to 
 his numbered ball, exceed 31 (except as provided in rule 5) he 
 is “burst,” and his score is reduced to the number on his ball. 
 If pool is not made before his turn to play comes again, he 
 may, upon compliance with conditions agreed upon prior to 
 the beginning of the game, exercise the privilege of drawing 
 another ball, retaining his first ball until his choice is made 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 85 
 
 between the two ; but the ball discarded he must return to the 
 game-keeper before making another shot, as in case of retain¬ 
 ing more than one ball he cannot win a pool. A player who 
 bursts and re-enters as above described retains his original 
 place in the order of playing. 
 
 7. Should one or more of the pin spots be occupied by any 
 one of the balls, the pin must remain off the table until the 
 spot is again uncovered. 
 
 Pool Must Be Proclaimed. 
 
 8. When pool (31) has been made, it must be proclaimed 
 before the next player’s stroke is made, and after each shot 
 reasonable time shall be allowed for calculation ; but if a 
 player, having made 31, fails to announce it before the next 
 stroke is made, he cannot claim pool until his turn to play 
 comes again, and if in the meantime pool is made and 
 properly proclaimed, the player so making and proclaiming 
 it is entitled to the pool, regardless of the fact that pool has 
 been previously made and not proclaimed. 
 
 9. A pin shall not be counted unless (1) it has been knocked 
 flown, or (2) removed entirely clear of the spot on which it 
 stood, though remaining perpendicular. In any other case 
 the pin must be replaced on its spot. 
 
 Playing Out of Turn. 
 
 10. A count is void if made by a player playing out of his 
 turn, but may be scored against the player if he thereby bursts, 
 except that, in case he was called upon to play by some one of 
 the players or by the marker, he cannot be burst by the stroke, 
 and is entitled to play when his turn comes. 
 
 11. Pins do not count if knocked down by a ball whose 
 course has been illegitimately interfered with, nor if knocked 
 down by any other ball set in motion by the same play. Pins 
 knocked down by a ball set in motion by a stroke on which 
 another ball jumps off the table must be reckoned. Should 
 the striker intentionally interfere with any ball after it is in 
 motion, he shall be burst, regardless of his count. 
 
86 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 Correction of the Score. 
 
 12. The player must see to it that he is credited by the 
 marker with pins made after each stroke, and, unless by con¬ 
 sent of all the players, no correction of the score shall be 
 made after a succeeding stroke has intervened. 
 
 13. Unless his ball be deposited in its proper place in the 
 board, a player shall not be entitled to pins knocked down 
 by him. 
 
 14. A player must look after his own interests, and if he 
 plays before one or more of the pins be spotted, the stroke is 
 void and his hand is out. 
 
 15. Should one or more of the small balls be missing, the 
 game-keeper shall announce the fact, and pool cannot be won 
 on a missing ball. 
 
 16. Pins do not count if knocked down by a ball in any 
 manner interfered with, or as the result of any unfair or 
 irregular stroke or action on the part of the player, except as 
 provided in rule 11. 
 
 17. Pins do not count if knocked down by a player in the 
 act of striking or otherwise than by the ball played with or at; 
 in such case the stroke is forfeited and no pins are counted. 
 
 18. All points not herein provided for are to be referred to 
 the game-keeper, whose decision shall be final. 
 
 RED, WHITE, AND BLUE. 
 
 The game of Red, White, and Blue is played on an ordi¬ 
 nary carrom billiard-table with three balls, colored respect¬ 
 ively red, white, and blue, and three pins of corresponding 
 colors. The red pin is placed upon the red-ball spot at the 
 foot of the table, the white pin upon the centre spot, and the 
 blue pin upon the white-ball spot. Looking from the head 
 of the table toward its foot, or lower end, the red ball, at the 
 opening of the game, is placed against the cushion at the 
 foot of the table and immediately opposite the right hand 
 diamond sight; the blue ball is placed against the same cush- 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 87 
 
 ion opposite the left hand diamond sight. The white cue- 
 ball is in hand. The object of the game is to knock down 
 each pin with a ball of corresponding color, and the rotation 
 in which the pins must fall is red, white, and blue. Carroms 
 do not count. The white cue-ball is played, in opening the 
 game, from any position within the six-inch semicircle at the 
 head of the table, and at the reel ball, which ball must knock 
 down the red pin on that stroke in order to effect a count. 
 The following rules are to be observed in playing the game : 
 
 1. The order of precedence is determined, for the first 
 game, by banking or otherwise, and the winner of each game 
 must play first in the succeeding game, the other players re¬ 
 taining their same relative positions. Each player continues 
 his inning until he fails to score, and the game is at an end 
 when the three pins have been scored in their routine of 
 color. 
 
 2. After the opening stroke each player, in his turn, can 
 play with any ball, and can either carrom on a pin, through 
 using the ball of the color of the pin for his cue-ball, or can 
 drive the proper colored ball against that pin with another 
 ball. 
 
 3. It is a burst if a pin is knocked down out of its rou¬ 
 tine of color, or with a ball other than one of its own color. 
 In either case the striker loses what pins he may have 
 previously scored, and when, his turn again comes to 
 play, he must begin at the red pin as at the opening of 
 the game. 
 
 4. A double or triple shot, i.e., where two or three 
 pins are knocked down, can be scored when each pin 
 is knocked down with the ball of its own color. Should 
 the red and the white pins be made on such a stroke, 
 it would only be necessary to obtain the blue pin to win 
 the game; but the white and blue pins could not be 
 scored unless the red had first been knocked down. In a 
 handicap game, where one player plays more than the 
 three regular pins, that player may score a double or 
 triple shot on any two or three pins which he may need, 
 providing either the one or both which fall, as the case 
 may be, are next in order of color to the one which he last 
 scored. 
 
68 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 5. It is a foul and no count can be made, nor can a player 
 burst, when the cue-ball knocks down a pin before hitting an¬ 
 other ball. In such an event and when no ball is hit by the 
 cue-ball, the latter must be spotted on the pool-spot at the 
 foot of the table, and the next player whose turn it is plays. 
 The same rule applies, except that the cue-ball is not to be 
 spotted when a pin is knocked down through any fault of 
 the striker, with his hand, his cue, or with anything else 
 while in the act of delivering his stroke. Should one pin be 
 knocked down by another, the shot is void, but no count can 
 be scored, nor can the striker be forced to a burst; but the 
 striker is deprived of his inning, and the next player whose 
 turn it is plays. 
 
 6. Should a player play out of his turn the stroke is foul, 
 and the balls must be replaced by the marker as near as pos¬ 
 sible to their’ original position, and the next player whose 
 turn it is plays. But should the striker have made more than 
 one stroke without correction, he must be permitted to con¬ 
 tinue his inning, and his score in that inning must be reck¬ 
 oned and must be placed to his credit. Having had his in¬ 
 ning he cannot play again when his regular turn comes, but 
 he must wait for his regular turn to come around the second 
 time. 
 
 7. The striker has the right to demand of the next player 
 what pin he wants, but it is not fair for any other player to 
 prompt the striker, by hint or otherwise, as to his mode of 
 play, or as to the pin the succeeding player may need. 
 
 8. Push shots are allowed, and in case of “ frozen ” balls 
 the striker can play with either of the balls so “frozen” or 
 touching each other, direct at the pin needed, and he can 
 score any pin so knocked down by a ball of its own color. 
 
 9. The rules of the Three-ball Carrom Game of Billiards, 
 not conflicting with the foregoing rules, govern this game 
 also. 
 
 Notes to the Above Rules. 
 
 Introduced by one of the leading clubs of New York City , and 
 adopted by all . 
 
 Should a ball occupy a spot which belongs to a pin, both 
 the ball and pin must be placed on their respective spots. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 89 
 
 ing player must pay one chip into the pool, and the next 
 player whose turn it is plays. 
 
 Should one pin be knocked down by another, the stroke is 
 void, no count or burst can be made, the offending player 
 must pay one chip into the pool, and the next player whose 
 turn it is plays. 
 
 Should a player be detected in the act of playing out of his 
 turn, the shot is foul, and is provided for in Rule 6 ; the 
 offending player must pay one chip into the pool, and the 
 next player whose turn it is plays. 
 
 It is foul for a player to prompt another in any way as to 
 his mode of play or as to the pin the next player may need, 
 and the offending player must pay one chip into the pool. 
 
 It is a burst, and the offending player must pay a chip into 
 the pool, if a pin is knocked down out of its routine of color, 
 or with a ball other than one of its own color. The offending 
 player loses all the pins he may have scored or which have 
 been placed to his credit, and when his turn comes around 
 again to play he must begin again at the red, as at the open¬ 
 ing of the game, 
 
 A double or triple shot, i.e., when two or three pins fall, 
 can only be scored where each pin, in accordance with the 
 spirit and intent of the game (Red, White, and Blue), is 
 knocked down by a ball of its own color. 
 
 All penalties must be enforced immediately on being de¬ 
 clared and previous to the stroke which succeeds that which 
 occasions the penalty. 
 
 The rules of Pin Pool and those of the regular Three-ball 
 Game govern this game, except where they conflict with the 
 foregoing rules, but the rules of Pin Pool take precedence 
 over the Three-ball Game in determining questions which 
 may arise during a game of Red, White, and Blue. 
 
90 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 BED, WHITE AND BLUE AS PLAYED IN CHICAGO. 
 
 Still another modification of the game, differing in many 
 respects from the rules given above, as played in Chicago, 
 where the game of Bed, White and Blue is extensively played, 
 is as follows: 
 
 The blue pin occupies the billiard spot at foot of table, the 
 red pin a spot in centre of table, and the white pin the billiard 
 spot at head of table. 
 
 The balls at opening of game are spotted, the blue against 
 the cushion opposite the right-hand diamond at foot of table, 
 and the red against the left-hand diamond. The white ball is 
 in hand. The object of the game is to knock down the pins 
 with the balls of corresponding color, and the rotation to be 
 observed is blue, red and lastly white. The white ball is 
 therefore played, in opening the game, from any position in 
 the string, against the blue ball, which must knock down the 
 blue pin. 
 
 The following are the rules to be observed: 
 
 1. The order of precedence is determined for the first game 
 by banking or otherwise, and the winner of that game will 
 play first in the next, the others retaining their same relative 
 positions. The striker continues his inning until he fails to 
 score. 
 
 2. The player can, after the opening shot, play with any 
 ball, and can either carrom on to the pin or drive the proper 
 ball against it with another ball, as in pin pool. 
 
 3. It is a “burst” if any pin is knocked down out of its 
 proper order (except in case of a double shot, as per rule 4), or 
 with the wrong ball, or when it has been already obtained. 
 In such a case the player loses all pins made, and must begin 
 again at the blue when his turn next comes. 
 
 4. A double or triple shot can be scored when each pin is 
 obtained with its proper ball, providing neither of the pins so 
 scored has been made before, and in such case it is immaterial 
 which is obtained first. Should the blue and the white pins 
 be made on such a shot, it is only necessary to obtain the red 
 pin to win the game; but the red and white pins could not be 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 yi 
 
 made unless the blue had first been scored on a previous shot. 
 In the case of a handicap, in which one player plays more 
 than the regular three pins, he may score a double shot on any 
 two pins he may need, providing one of them is the next in 
 order to the one he last obtained. 
 
 5. It is a foul, and no count can be made, nor can a player 
 burst when the cue ball knocks down a pin before hitting 
 another ball. In such a case, or when no ball is hit by tho 
 cue ball, the latter is to be spotted on its proper spot. (Tho 
 spot for the white ball is the pin-pool spot at foot of table.) 
 
 The same rule applies when any pin is knocked down 
 through any fault of the player, by touching with his hand or 
 cue, in the act of making a shot, except that the cue ball is 
 not to be spotted. 
 
 Should one pin be knocked down by another, the shot is 
 foul, and no count or burst can be made. 
 
 Should a ball occupy a pin spot, the striker must so play as 
 to uncover the spot and allow the pin to be spotted. 
 
 6. Should a player play out of his turn, the shot is foul, and 
 the balls must be replaced as nearly as possible. But should 
 he have made more than one shot without correction, he 
 continues to play, and his score in that inning must be count¬ 
 ed. But he cannot play after missing, until all the others 
 have had their turn, and his order of play must remain the 
 same as that assumed by mistake. 
 
 7. The striker has the right to demand of the next player 
 what pin he wants, but it is not fair for any other player to 
 caution the striker, by hint or otherwise, as to the pin the 
 next player may need. 
 
 8. A push shot is allowable, and in case of frozen balls one 
 may be played away from the other, or directly at the pin 
 needed, if possible. 
 
 9. Excepting where they conflict with the foregoing, the 
 rules of Pin Pool and of the Three-ball Carrom Game govern 
 the Game of Red, White and Blue. 
 
92 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 TWO-PIN POOL. 
 
 This game is played with a black and white pin, and three 
 balls, two white and one red, which are spotted as in five- 
 pin pool. 
 
 The black pin is set up on the left of the centre spot, on 
 that spot where the three-pin belongs in regular Five-pin Pool, 
 and the white pin is set up on the right of the centre spot, 
 or where the two-pin belongs. The spots are placed five in¬ 
 ches apart, measuring from centre to centre of each spot. 
 
 The balls are spotted as in Five-pin Pool, with the red upon 
 the red-ball spot at the foot of the table, and the white 
 upon a spot placed nine inches from the foot cushion. 
 
 1. He who plays first plays the cue-ball from any position 
 within the string at the head of the table, the string being all 
 that portion of the table lying back of the second sights 
 upon the side-cushion rails, counting from the head of the 
 table as in Fifteen-ball Pool. 
 
 2. Any number of persons may play, their order of play 
 being determined by the rolling out of the small numbered 
 ball as in Fifteen-ball Pool. 
 
 3. The game is usually played for an agreed amount per 
 ball. 
 
 4. Either object-ball may be hit first with the cue-ball in 
 opening the game, after which any ball may be used for the 
 cue-ball as in regular Five-pin Pool. 
 
 5. To score successfully the striker must knock down the 
 white pin after first hitting an object-ball, as in five-pin pool, 
 and when successful, each player in the game pays him the 
 amount agreed upon per ball. Carroms do not count. 
 
 6. Should the striker knock down the black pin only, he 
 pays each of the persons in the game the amount agreed 
 upon per ball and the next in turn plays. 
 
 7. When both pins fall it is a stand off—nothing won, noth¬ 
 ing lost. 
 
 8. The striker plays until he fails to score, after which the 
 next in turn plays. 
 
 9. After each successful score and settlement per ball, the 
 balls are spotted and a new pool begun. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 93 
 
 10. All other play is governed by the rules of regular Five-pin 
 Pool, where said rules do not conflict with those herein laid 
 down. 
 
 THE LITTLE CORPORAL. 
 
 This game is the regular Three-ball Carom Game with a 
 small pin added, like those used in Pin Pool, which is set up 
 in the centre of the table. 
 
 The caroms and forfeits count as in the regular Three-ball 
 Game, but the knocking down of the pin scores five points for 
 the striker, who plays until he fails to effect a carom or knock 
 down the pin. 
 
 1. A ball must be hit by the cue-ball before the pin can be 
 scored; playing at the pin direct is not allowed. 
 
 2. The pin must be set up where it falls ; but in case it 
 goes off the table or lodges on the top of the cushion it must 
 be placed upon the centre spot. 
 
 3. The pin leaning against the cushion must be scored as 
 down, and when the pin lodges in the corner of the table, so 
 that it cannot be hit with the ball, it is to be set up on the 
 centre spot. 
 
 4. One hundred points generally constitute a game, but 
 any number of points may be agreed upon. 
 
 BOUCHON POOL. 
 
 The game of Bouchon (cork) is of French origin and is a 
 favorite game with the Parisians. It is played with three 
 billiard-balls, two white and one red, and three corks, the lat¬ 
 ter being cut at least inch in length, and perfectly true 
 
94 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 and level at tlieir ends, that they may stand directly upright. 
 Common, straight bottle-corks are generally used and they 
 are set up on the spots which are used in the regular 
 Three-ball Game of Billiards, the pool-cork being placed on 
 the spot in the centre of the table. The game is usually 
 played for a stake, the amount generally being either ten or 
 twenty-five cents per head, and any number of persons may 
 participate. The pool money is piled or stacked up on the 
 top of the centre cork. The red ball is placed on the pool- 
 spot at the foot of the table, said spot being fixed as in the 
 Four-ball and Pin Pool games, five inches from the end cush¬ 
 ion and on a direct line with the other spots. The white balls 
 in leading are played in turn from the six-inch semicircle 
 or radius at the head of the table, the purpose of the player 
 being to drive the object-ball to one or more cushions and 
 then cause it to knock down the pool-cork in the centre of 
 the table. 
 
 The Rules. 
 
 1. The order of play is determined by throwing out the 
 small balls as in Fifteen-ball, Pyramid, or Pin Pool. 
 
 2. Number one must shoot from the six-inch radius or 
 semicircle at the head of the table and afc the red ball on 
 the pool-spot at the foot of the table, and must bank or drive 
 that ball against one or more cushions and then on to the 
 centre pool-cork in order to score a valid stroke, and with suf¬ 
 ficient force to knock the centre cork down, and in a manner 
 that will cause that cork, when down, to fall clear of its spot. 
 Should the striker succeed in so doing, and should no other 
 cork fall with the pool-cork, the pool is his, and another game 
 must be begun. 
 
 3. Number two shoots with the remaining white ball from 
 the semicircle at any ball on the table, his object of play being 
 to bank either object-ball onto the centre cork, as provided in 
 Rule 2. Number three shoots with any ball on the table 
 from where he finds it, as in Pin Pool. 
 
 4. It is foul, and the offending player must purchase a new 
 life for failing to hit an object-ball; for knocking down one 
 or more corks with the cue-ball; for knocking down either or 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 95 
 
 both the outside corks other than the pool-cork with either 
 cue- or object-ball for knocking down all three corks with 
 any ball; for knocking down the pool-cork so that some part of 
 it as it lies shall touch its spot; or for causing a ball to knock 
 the pool-money off its cork and leave the pool-cork standing. 
 A distinct penalty must be paid for each cork which falls; thus, 
 should the striker knock down three corks he must pay three 
 penalties into the pool. 
 
 5. A player is at liberty to withdraw from a game at any 
 time during its progress, but he forfeits thereby all claim to 
 any part of the pool, therefore he is not compelled, after losing 
 a life, to purchase a new one. 
 
 6. Should a ball be forced off the table it must be placed 
 on the pool-spot at the foot of the table. Should two balls 
 be forced off the table, the pool-spot at the foot of the table 
 must receive the object-ball, while the other ball, being in 
 hand, must be played from the six-inch radius or semicircle at 
 the head of the table, and it can be played at either object- 
 ball. Should three balls be forced off the table then the 
 play is the same as in leading at the opening of the game. 
 
 7. When a cork falls it must be set up on its spot and 
 should its spot be occupied by a ball, that ball must be 
 placed on the pool-spot at the foot of the table, and should 
 the pool-spot be occupied, the ball then being in hand must 
 be played by the next player whose turn it is from the six- 
 inch radius at the head of the table. 
 
 8. Playing or banking the cue-ball against one or more 
 cushions, as in the carrom game of bank-shots, then onto an 
 object-ball, must be reckoned as a valid stroke, and the pool 
 can be won by such a stroke should the object-ball knock 
 down the pool cork, as provided in Kule 2, even though the 
 object-ball does not strike a cushion. 
 
 9. The rules of the regular Three-ball Game, not conflicting 
 with any of the foregoing rules, govern this game also. 
 
96 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 RULES OF POOL FOR 31 POINTS. 
 
 Played on the Parisian Pool Board. 
 
 When played for thirty-one points, a burst is declared 
 when that number is surpassed, as in Pin Pool. 
 
 1. Player number one strikes the ball from within the 
 string, making it take one or more cushions, and return to 
 lodge in one of the cups on the board, its number being 
 placed to his credit. As to what constitutes a shot see Rule 
 4 of La Barraque. 
 
 2. This being a difficult, though an interesting game, he 
 whose aggregate of points made will have reached 31 points 
 must declare himself as having made pool. Should a player 
 having made pool not announce the fact before the next 
 player shoots (a reasonable time having passed), he cannot 
 claim it until it come his turn again, when he may call pool 
 without striking a ball. But should any other player make 
 pool in the meantime, and declare such in the proper way, 
 the latter is entitled to the game, notwithstanding that pool 
 had already been made. 
 
 3. A player having made over 31 points, being “bursted,” 
 may claim the “ privilege,” of re-entering the pool by paying 
 the forfeit agreed upon at the start. He must, however, de¬ 
 clare his intention of retaining his interest in the pool imme¬ 
 diately upon bursting, and pay for his privilege, when he will 
 resume his play when his regular turn comes. 
 
 4. A player cannot claim any counts he may have made by 
 playing out of his turn ; but if he has made enough points to 
 burst him by such stroke the loss is established, unless in a 
 case where he was called upon to play by the game-keeper ; 
 the offending player loses his turn, and the player whose turn 
 it is plays. 
 
 5. In all cases not covered by these rules, the pool-keeper’s 
 judgment will be final. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 97 
 
 HIGH NUMBER POOL. 
 
 Played on the Parisian Pool Board . 
 
 1. In speculating on High Number, each player will play in 
 his turn, and he whose ball attains the highest numbered 
 cup, each contestant in that pool having had one stroke, will 
 be declared winner. 
 
 2. In case there should be a tie for the highest number, the 
 player so interested will roll the ball, each in his proper turn, 
 and he who reaches the highest numbered cups will be de¬ 
 clared the winner of the tie. 
 
 RULES OF PARISIAN POOL. 
 
 (La Barraque.) 
 
 1. This game may be played by any number of persons ; 
 and, to decide their positions of play, each shall strike a ball, 
 from inside the string, to one or more cushions, the object 
 being to have the ball return and lodge in one of the num¬ 
 bered cups on the board, i.e., a thick board of black walnut 
 or other material of the width of the billiard-table is provided 
 with a dozen or fifteen cup-holes, similar to a bagatelle table, 
 which receives the balls. The edge of the board at its front 
 is bevelled down to a sharp surface at the cloth which is cov¬ 
 ered with sheet brass that the ball may not break the sharp 
 edge of the board when it runs up the incline onto the 
 board, and thus drops into one of the numbered cups. The 
 player attaining the highest number is declared the winner. 
 
 2. The game consists of two hundred points, more or less, 
 as agreed upon by the players. When one of the contestants 
 has reached or surpassed that number of points, the game is 
 concluded, and the one having the lowest number of points 
 to his credit must be considered the loser. 
 
 3. Each contestant will play in his proper turn, and will 
 have but one shot at a time. The number of the cup he 
 attains in said play will be placed to his credit. 
 
 4. For a shot to be valid the ball, after striking a cushion 
 
98 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 outside of the string, must pass over the brass plate onto the 
 board, where it may drop in a cup, remain motionless on the 
 board’s surface, or roll off again. Should the striker not suc¬ 
 ceed in making the ball pass over the brass plate onto th^ 
 board, he may play on until he succeeds in doing so. 
 
 MONTE CARLO. 
 
 1. The ball must be struck by the player with the tip end 
 of the cue. 
 
 2. Each player is entitled to four chances, and the plays 
 can be made in succession or alternating as may be preferred. 
 
 3. The total of the counts made in the four shots shall be 
 the limit of the game. 
 
 4. After the ball has been struck and rolls beyond the 
 gutter, but returns on account of being struck too lightly, it 
 is called a shot. 
 
 5. The player making the lowest count in the four shots 
 shall be the loser of the game, and shall be responsible for 
 whatever forfeit may be decided upon. 
 
 6. Every game must be settled for before another one is 
 commenced. 
 
 7. The amount secured by each shot is indicated by the 
 receptacle in which the ball stops. If the ball is struck, the 
 extra count made by it is added to the score of the player. 
 
 PIGEON HOLE AND JENNY LIND. 
 
 1. For the purpose of ascertaining who should play first, it 
 is necessary that each player take two balls in one hand and 
 roll them toward the holes or pockets. Who counts most 
 plays first, and then in rotation, from the highest number to 
 the lowest. 
 
 2. Every player must place himself at the end of the table ; 
 it is against the rules to play a ball from the side of the 
 table. 
 
 3. Nine balls are used, of which number eight are to be 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 99 
 
 white and one red. The red ball shall be placed upon the 
 spot on the center of the table, and the player shall play his 
 ball from within the line, which is drawn across the table 
 from the first ivory sight on the edges. 
 
 4. The red ball, when pocketed or holed, counts double. 
 
 5. After the player has played two or more balls into the 
 pockets or holes, and there are no more balls upon the table, 
 he is permitted, if he has more balls to play, to take the red 
 one out, and again re-spot it. 
 
 6. No party is permitted to make use of the table for 
 longer than three games in succession, if others are present 
 who desire to play. 
 
 7. Any person who purposely throws or knocks balls from 
 the table, loses the game. 
 
 8. One hundred points constitute a game, and the first one 
 to count that number is the winner. 
 
 “PAREPA.” 
 
 In the game of Parepa, the colored balls are numbered 
 respectively, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, and 100. The 
 numbered balls are all placed upon the table so as to form a 
 triangle, about 24 inches in front of the Parepa box. 
 
 1. Each game consists of 500 points, or such other num¬ 
 ber as the proprietor of the table may establish as “rules of 
 the house.” 
 
 2. The order of playing may be determined by a toss, or 
 by a single shot by each player, the one counting highest to 
 lead, and the others following in their order. 
 
 3. The first player takes the w T hite ball to make the first 
 shot. If he succeeds in pocketing a colored ball, or caroms 
 on a colored ball and pockets the white, he has a right to 
 follow up his game as long as there are balls remaining upon 
 the table, or until he makes game. 
 
 4. After the first shot, the player takes any ball he may 
 
100 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 choose from those in the pockets. But if the first player fails 
 to count, the second then takes the white ball from the table, 
 leaving the others undisturbed; and if he also fails, then the 
 third player does the same, and so on. 
 
 5. All shots must be made from the head of the table, in¬ 
 side the string. Each player counts the number on each ball 
 he has pocketed, adding to it the number of the pocket in 
 which the ball is found. 
 
 BAGATELLE. 
 
 In this game nine balls are used. 
 
 Rules. 
 
 1. Any number may play, and either singly or on sides. 
 
 2. Each player strings for lead, and he who lodges his ball 
 in the highest hole begins. 
 
 3. The player who wins the lead takes possession of the 
 nine balls and opens the game. 
 
 4. The black ball is placed on the spot in front of the first 
 hole, and the player strikes from the balk at the black ball, 
 and endeavors to put it, his own, or both balls, into hole or 
 holes. 
 
 5. The black ball counts double, into whatever hole it falls. 
 
 6. The striker’s ball must be placed within the balk-line, 
 and is struck with the cue at the black ball. The remainder 
 of the balls are then driven up the board in a like manner, 
 and the sum total of the holes made is the player’s score. 
 
 7. Any number of rounds may be played for the game, as 
 agreed beforehand. 
 
 8. The player (or side) obtaining the highest score wins. 
 
 9. Any ball rebounding beyond the balk-line, or forced 
 over the board, is not to be again played during that round. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 101 
 
 ENGLISH BAGATELLE. 
 
 1. Any number of persons may join in this game, and can 
 play either separately or with an equal number of players on 
 each side. 
 
 2. The King Ball (which may be colored either red or 
 black) is placed on the white spot in front of the holes, at the 
 beginning of every round, and must in the first instance be 
 struck by one of the other balls before there can be a score. 
 After being once struck, however, it is not compulsory to 
 play upon it. 
 
 3. The striker’s ball must be kept within a boundary line 
 marked across the board. Should the striker in playing 
 bring the red ball over this line, it is considered out of play 
 for the time being, until the next player commences. 
 
 4. Any number of rounds (or runs up) may be played for 
 the game, as may be agreed upon at its commencement. 
 
 5. The player, or players on a side, who obtain the great¬ 
 est number—counting the holes into which he puts the balls, 
 according to the figures marked within them—wins the game. 
 
 6. Any balls driven off the table during play cannot be 
 again used during that round. 
 
 7. In some cases pins are placed on the table surrounding 
 the holes. Pins knocked down count five each, or as many 
 as may be agreed upon. Pins must be replaced on spots. 
 
 CAROMBOLETTE. 
 
 Carombolette is a combination of Bagatelle (a game of 
 chance) and Pool (a game of skill). 
 
 Bagatelle. 
 
 1. Two or more persons can make a game, each one for 
 himself, or by playing partners. 
 
 2. To determine who shall lead, place two white balls in 
 the 10 holes, with the pool-stop in position, then suddenly 
 
102 
 
 A COMPLETE HAND-BOOK OF 
 
 remove the the stop; the count of the balls when at rest 
 entitles the winner to choice of play. 
 
 3. The game is played with nine balls, eight white and one 
 red. The red ball shall be spotted in the center of the table 
 midway between the lower diamonds, and when pocketed 
 shall count double, and when pocketed, whether counting or 
 not, is to be respotted. Play upon it after the first shot shall 
 be at the discretion of the player. 
 
 4. All shots shall be made from within the string at the 
 head of the table, and all balls forced from the table or re¬ 
 turning within the line shall be considered dead. 
 
 5. A cue-ball which does not strike fche object or other 
 ball, whether it goes through the arches or not, shall not 
 count, and the player so missing shall forfeit one ball. 
 
 6. The game shall consist of the total count made after 
 having played all the balls. The numbers over the arches do 
 not count in bagatelle. 
 
 7. When played by partners one round shall constitute a 
 game, but single handed, the best two out of three is more 
 interesting. 
 
 Pool. 
 
 Place the pool-stop in position, and play according to the 
 rules of Bagatelle, excepting that the game is counted by the 
 numbers over the arched pockets. The red ball counting 
 double, and being always re-spotted after being pocketed. 
 
BILLIARDS AND POOL. 
 
 103 
 
 SHUFFLE-BOAED. 
 
 1. The players must alternate in bowling and must stand in 
 position at the ends of the table. 
 
 2. Twenty-one points constitute a regular game. 
 
 3. All pieces inside of the deuce-line count two and ships 
 count three. 
 
 4. If at the finish of a round no weight is inside of the 
 deuce-line, the weight which lies nearest to that line counts 
 one point. 
 
 5. But one deuce and one ship can be counted in the play¬ 
 ing of a single hand, and that weight which is nearest to the 
 deuce-line is to be counted, and the ship count shall be given 
 to the player whose weight projects furthest over the end of 
 the shuffle-bed. 
 
 6. All weights falling into the gutter do not count, and 
 must be removed therefrom so as not to interfere with the 
 bowling of the next player. 
 
 7. In a four-hand game one opponent from each side must 
 stand at either end of the board. Positions are not changed 
 as in a game where there are only two contestants. The 
 winning man at either end plays first. 
 
 8. When either piece rebounds from the end of the board, 
 said piece does not count and must be taken off. 
 
 9. All pieces going in the gutter do not count, and must 
 be taken off. 
 
INDEX 
 
 Attitude, Correct (Illustra¬ 
 ted). Front Cover 1 
 
 American Four-ball Pocket 
 
 Game. 43 
 
 Bagatelle. 100 
 
 “ English. 101 
 
 Balk-line Game, (14 inch) ... 36 
 
 Balk-line Game, Champion¬ 
 ship Emblem. 38 
 
 Balk, Care of. 26 
 
 Bank Shot Game. 45 
 
 Carombolette. 101 
 
 Chalk. 19 
 
 Cloth, Billiard. 23 
 
 Crotch Debarred. 35 
 
 Cues, Billiard. 16 
 
 Cue, Selecting a. 17 
 
 Cue Leathers, Plow to put 
 
 them on . 18 
 
 Cushions, History of.. 19 
 
 Cushion Bolts, Keep Tight 
 
 the. 27 
 
 Cushion Carrom Game. 43 
 
 English Championship Game 45 
 
 Family'Circle, In the . 8 
 
 Four Ball Carrom Game .... 42 
 
 Foul Strokes, Defined. 30 
 
 Frozen Balls.32-44 
 
 Game, Plistory of. 5 
 
 Game-keeper, Duties of .... 79 
 
 Illustrations.1, 8, 106 
 
 Introductory. 3 
 
 Little Corporal. 93 
 
 Marker, Duties of. 49 
 
 Medals Awarded, Lithogra¬ 
 phic Pictures of. 106 
 
 Modern Billiards (a Book). . . 105 
 
 Monte Carlo,. 98 
 
 Needles, Bent. 25 
 
 No Count Strokes,. 35 
 
 “Parepa”.. . . 99 
 
 Patti’s Mme., Billiard Room 
 (a Picture). 8 
 
 Pigeon Hole and Jenny Lind, 98 
 
 Players, Duties of. 49 
 
 Pool, American Pyramid.... 61 
 
 Pool, Bottle. 81 
 
 Pool, Bouchon (Cork). 93 
 
 Pool, Chicago. 65 
 
 Pool, Continuous. 51 
 
 Pool, Color-ball. 72 
 
 Pool, English Pyramid. 63 
 
 Pool, Fifteen-ball. 59 
 
 Pool, Forty-one. ... 69 
 
 Pool, High-Low Jack-Game. . 70 
 
 Pool, High Number. 97 
 
 Pool, Kelly. 78 
 
 Pool, Parisian (La Barraque), 97 
 
 Pool, Pin. 83 
 
 Pool, Skittle... 75 
 
 Pool, Thirty-one. 96 
 
 Pool, Two-ball. 66 
 
 Pool, Two-pin. 92 
 
 Progressive Carrom Game.. . 41 
 
 Red, White and Blue . 86 
 
 Red, White and Blue 
 
 (Chicago). 90 
 
 Referee, Duties of. 36 
 
 Rooms, Dimensions of . 14 
 
 Room-Keepers, Important to 22 
 
 Rules, A Code of. 30 
 
 Safety Play.31, 33 
 
 Shuffle-Board .. 103 
 
 Sound Reasoning. 10 
 
 Space Game. 40 
 
 Spanish Game. 50 
 
 Spectators, Duties of. 49 
 
 Stock List. 28 
 
 Table, Buying a. 10 
 
 Table, Outfit for a . 12 
 
 Tables, Accompaniments to. 15 
 Tables, Hints on Care of.... 23 
 
 Three-ball Carrom Game ... 33 
 
 Three Cushion Carrom 
 Game. 44 
 
THE ONLY BILLIARD BOOK. 
 
 MODERN BILLIARDS. 
 
 Published by THE BRUNSWICK-BALKE-COLLENDER CO. 
 
 A Complete Text-Book of the Game, containing plain and practical instruc¬ 
 tions how to play and acquire sk ill at this scientific amusement. 
 
 Illustrated with Plates and Engravings, giving three hundred different 
 strokes, and showing the best method of executing them, as practised by the 
 leading players of the day, also new standard rules and regulations governing 
 the various games for amateurs and professionals. A manual giving the 
 theories and principles of the various strokes, and of the game itself, showing 
 the proper attitudes and positions, directions for holding the cue, a full 
 explanation of the table and all its accessories, hints to architects and builders 
 regarding the billiard-room in dwellings or public places, particulars of cloth, 
 leathers, cues, balls, and all the attendant machinery, explanations of terms 
 used, philosophy of the forces used in striking the ball, and a large number 
 of other valuable suggestions to assist in mastering the game and to improve 
 the accomplished player. An interesting and reliable history of the orgin and 
 progress of billiards, profusely illustrated with handsome engravings showing 
 the table at different epochs and the various changes made in it. 
 
 A complete record of all prominent match and tournament games newly 
 < compiled from the best authentic sources. 
 
 In fact, it is the most thorough and complete work ever published upon the 
 i subject, richly bound and embellished, and, aside from its practical usefulness, 
 I is an ornament to the library. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 “ ‘ Modern Billiards ’ is a complete text-book of the game, containing plain and practical 
 instructions how to play and acquire skill at this fascinating game. * * * * In addition, 
 
 there are chapters on the history of billiards ; on the proper dimensions of a room in which a 
 table should be placed ; on cues, how to put leather on the cue, and a number of other valuable 
 hints to the inexperienced player. The book is an admirable treatise on the game of billiards.” 
 — Advertiser. 
 
 i “ ‘ Modern Billiards’ a copy of which we have received, is profusely illustrated, and cjntains 
 , matter of much interest to amateurs and professionals.”— Sportsman. 
 
 1 “ It is clearly expressed, and is illustrated with a great number of colored plates, showing the 
 manner of making every important shot on the table.”— N. Y. Sun. 
 
 FOR SALE BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. 
 
 F»rice, $2.00. 
 
 Sent free by mail on receipt of price. 
 
tHDEK CO- 
 
 BY THE. GREAT 
 EXPOSITIONS OE THE WORLD.