LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN q915.69 P17s v„3 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 4 https://archive.org/details/surveyofwesternp03pale FRESCO! "Vincent Bronks Da>' THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. MEMOIRS TOPOGRAPHY, OROGRAPHY, HYDROGRA PPIY, ARCHAEOLOGY. BY CAPT. C. R. CONDKR, R.E., AND CAPT. H. 11. KITCHENER, R.E. VOLUME III. SHEETS XVII. -XXVI. JUD.EA. EDITED WITH ADDITIONS BY E. H. PALMER, M.A., AND WALTER BESANT, M.A., FOR THE COMMITTEE OF THE PALESTINE EXPLORATION FUND, I, ADAM STREET, ADELPHI, LONDON, W.C. 1883. f ,1. { \ PREFACE. -xx— This volume completes the publication of the Memoirs drawn up by- Captain Conder and Captain Kitchener for their Survey of Western Palestine. The information concerning Topography, Hydrography, I Orography, Archaeology, etc., is so separated as to be easily looked out 'j under the various sections of each Sheet. But to facilitate the work of j reference, an index is now being prepared, and will be issued as soon as I the whole work is completed. As regards the illustrations, with a few exceptions they have all been taken from the drawings and plans drawn on the spot. The Memoirs of this volume have had the advantage of being recorded by Captain Conder on the spot. He has revisited many of the sites with j ' the proofs in his hands. I The name of my lamented colleague, Professor Palmer, still appears 1 ' upon the title-page ; but his illness in the spring, his departure for Egypt ) last July, and his tragic death in August, laid the whole work of editing this volume upon myself. If there are errors, therefore, they must not be j charged upon him. ' W. B. 1 I, Adam Street, Adelphi, March i, 1883. 3S1410 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Frescoes ....... Frontispiece. Bethany . . . . . . .To face page 28 'Amwas — Plan of ruined church ; pavement ; capitals with inscription ; masons' marks ; tomb of a Santon ; Hebrew-Samaritan and Greek inscriptions; subterranean vault . . . C3-71 Anata — Plan . . . . . . .82 Beit Lahm — Plan of Constantine's Basilica ; graffiti representing crests OF knights, with mottoes . . . . . 84, 85 BiR Beit Bassa — Plans and sections of loculi . . .87 BiREH — Plan of ruined church, capitals of pillars, and masons' marks . 88, 89 Pools of Solomon (Lower Pool) .... To face page 89 Deir et TAHtjNEH — Sketches of lintel stones . . . .92 El Habs — Sketch of Latin stone altar . . . -93 El JiB — View of the city ; plan of tomis, with elevations of walls . 95-98 El KabCt — Plan of ruined church . . . . .100 KabOr el Beni IsraIm — Sketches and sections of rude stone monuments . loi Khurbet 'Adaseh — Plans and sections of tombs and underground aque- duct . . . . . . .105 Khurbet 'Ain el Ken'iseh — Plan of ruined chapel . . .106 Khurbet Beit Skaria — Sketches of pillar capitals . . .108 Khurbet el Beituni — Plan of cave . Khurbet el Burj — Plan of tower Khurbet Ikbala — Plan of ruined convent ; masons' marks Khurbet el Mahmeh — Sections of masonry Khurbet Medbes — Plan of great cave KhCrbet el Murussus — Plan of ruined monastery Khurbet Sammd — Plan of chapel; inscription. . . .217 Aqueducts near Jerico ..... To face page 222 Aqueducts across Wady en Nueiameh . . . „ ,, 225 Wady Kelt — Plan of aqueduct . . . • .228 Askalan ....... To face page 237 Interor of church of St. John, Gaza , . . „ „ 240 Askalan — Masons' marks ...... 240 West door of the church of St. John, Gaza . . . To face page 242 Deir el Belah— Sketches of stones, with crosses and inscriptions Ghuzzeh — Plan .... Sheikh Rashed — Inscription on tomb . Tell el 'AjjOl — Sketch of great statue Arak el Kheil — Plan of caverns, and sketches of bas-reliefs . Beit Jibrin — Inscription in great cave; bas-relief on wall of cave plan of fortifications north of village ; masons' marks Details of arcade at Beit Jibrin El KenIseh — Plan of church of Sandahannah KeratIya — Plans of Kulat el Fenish £s StiK — Plan of excavation ; sketch of interior Tell Sandahannah — Plan of caverns T53 155 159 160 To face page 167 „ „ 171 248 249 253 254 265 267-271 To face page 270 276 277 289, 290 291 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. vii PAGE Beit 'Auwa — Plan and section of font • . . . .321 Ramet el Khulil, Abraham's house near Hebron . . To face page 322 Beit el Khulil — Plan of remains . . . . .322 Deir el ArbaIn — Plan, showing tombs of Jesse and Ruth . . 327 Jebel FuREiDis — Plan of hill-top, etc. .... 330 El Haram (Hebron) — Plan, with section and cornice . . -334,335 South-east angle and entrance to Haram (Hebron) . . To face page 336 Plan of the vicinity of Hebron . . . • » ,,352 Khijrbet el Jof — Sketch of cornice ..... 355 Khurbet Khoreisa — Plan of ruin, and sketch of lintel stone with inscription ...... 356 AVady Khureitun . . . . . .To face page 357 Adullam — showing the caves . . . • ), ,,361 Khurbet TekM — Plan of font, with sketches of designs on side; plan of rock-cut stable .368,369 Khurbet Umm el 'Amed — Plan of ruined convent 370 El Kurmul — Plan of the castle 373 KusR IslaiyIn — Plan of remains 374 Mugharet Masa — Plan of cave 375 El Muntar — Plan ..... 377 Es SJmia — Pl.\n of rock-cut tomb, with sketch of porch 378 'Ain Jidy (Engedi) ..... • 385 'Anab — Plan ..... 393 Edh Dhaheriyeh — View of the village, and plan of the tower . 407 Khurbet ZanOta — Sketch of wall 410 Es Semua — Plan of building ; sketch of pillars and details of PILASTER . 413 SCrsiEH — Plan of the ruin ; lintels, cornices and mouldings .414,415 MaSADA — GENERAL PLAN .... . To face page 417 Tyre — Plan of Es SOr .... 424 Masada — scale ..... To face page 419 MaSADA — FROM THE NORTH-WEST „ ,, 420 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. SHEET XVII.— SECTION A. Orography. — This Sheet contains 3717 square miles of the country round Jerusalem. It is naturally divided into four districts, viz. : (i) the Watershed Hills; (2) the hills west of Wady Beit Hanina; (3) the 'Arkub; (4) the Shephelah. I. The Watershed Hills. — The main watershed ot the country runs south from Tell 'Asl^ir (Sheet XIV,), by Beitin to Bireh, where it is about 2,920 feet above the Mediterranean. From this point it runs as a narrow ridge with a shallow parallel valley on the west. The average elevation is about 2,700 to 2,600 feet for 7 miles to the Ras el Mesharif, about a mile from Jerusalem. The city is first visible from near S h d f a t, 2 miles away, and from the conical Tell el F h\ (2,754 feet above the sea), 2f miles away. In the neighbourhood of the city the watershed is flat and broad, running west of the sloping spurs on which the modern Jerusalem is built. It is about half a mile wide, and runs in a curve, returning towards the east on the south of the city. The elevation decreases gradually from 2,680, north and west of the city, to 2,440 near Sir Moses Montefiore's almshouses. Jerusalem may be generally described as built on the eastern slope of a plateau, the western slopes of which extend in parallel ridges to Wady Beit Hanina, 4 miles from the city. South of Jerusalem is the flat plain called el Bukeid, or el M e i d d n, extending nearly two miles north and south, and about a mile VOL. III. I THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. broad, with an average elevation of about 2,500 feet above the sea. The watershed conthiues from this plain to Bethlehem, the ground to the west being flat and open, whilst spurs with valleys, which deepen rapidly, exist to the east. Bethlehem stands on one of these eastern spurs, and the watershed curves away westwards, being very narrow, with a flat valley (W a d y J i r i u s) on the west, running north. On reaching the rounded hill of S h u k f a n, above U r t a s, the shed drops rapidly to a saddle immediately west of the B u r a k, and has an elevation of a little over 2,600 feet. It then rises again further west into the high and conspicuous ridge, running north and south, called R a s esh Sherifeh (3,258 feet above the sea), the highest point on the Sheet. The western slopes from this ridge are steep, but on the east there is a small flat plot of ground in the neighbourhood of the B u r a k. The eastern spurs are, however, equally rugged with those on the west, and the pass immediately south of the B u r a k and east of the ridge of Ras esh Sherifeh is very narrow and difficult. The valleys which break down east of the watershed towards the Dead Sea are all steep and fall rapidly ; the spurs between them are generally flat, with rounded outlines, and precipices below. The tops of the hills are of soft chalky limestone, but a hard crystalline formation appears beneath. The most important valleys are W a d y S u w e i n i t, and Wady er Redeidy, which are the two heads of W a d y Fa rah (Sheet XVIII.). A third valley (Wady Ruabeh) running north-east from the Mount of Olives, joins the same great valley (Wady F a r a h), which thus receives the drainage of all the country east of the watershed from Bethel to Jerusalem. The sides of these three valleys are precipitous and impassable ; Wady Suweinit is especially rugged, with cliffs 300 to 400 feet high. The hills above are very bare, but there is corn-land in the low ground at the valley heads. The Mount of Olives is an important spur, running out of the water- shed north of Jerusalem and curving round eastwards. The elevation of the ridge is about equal to that of the watershed (2,600 to 2,680 feet above the sea). Another important valley, Wady en Nar, has its head south of the Ras el M e s h a r i f, and runs east of Jerusalem, separating it from the [SHEET XVII.] OROGRAPHY. 3 Mount of Olives. Thence it runs south-east for 4 miles, when it bends suddenly east, running towards Mar Saba (Sheet XVIII.). This valley (the ancient brook Kedron) is flanked by rounded hills, and is open and easily passable. The valleys south of Jerusalem and east of the watershed run generally towards the south-east ; the ridges between are narrow, with steep slopes ; the whole district is extremely barren, consisting of white chalky lime- stone. II, Wad y Beit H a n 1 n a. — One of the principal valleys in the centre of Palestine; has its head near Birch. It runs south for 6 miles close to the watershed, gradually becoming deeper and narrower. South of Beit H a n i n a it is joined by a second valley of the same character, which runs almost parallel to it on the west, having its head at Ram-Allah. About miles from the junction, the valley becomes (in the neighbourhood of L i f t a) an important natural feature. Thence it runs irregularly westwards to K u 1 6 n i e h, where its bed is 1,800 feet above the sea, the mountains rising some 700 to 800 feet above it. The valley runs from K li 1 6 n i e h in a southerly direction under 'A i n K a r i m, and is here broad and flat, with steep ridges on cither side. Gradually turning west, it becomes yet deeper and narrower, forming a very important natural feature. Near 'A k u r the bed is about 1,400 feet below the northern ridge, and 1,297 feet above the Mediterranean. North of Dcir el Hawa the valley is a narrow gorge, with precipices on its northern side. It here emerges from the high hills into the Shephelah, and becomes a broad corn valley (W a d y e s S u r a r). This valley divides the 'A r k u b on the south from the hill ranges to the north, and divides also the Shephelah into two districts. The northern hills west of the watershed extend about 5 miles west- wards, in a series of narrow parallel ridges, the average elevation being from 2,600 feet above the sea on the east, to 2,000 on the west. These spurs have very steep western slopes, a sudden drop occurring, as, for instance, at Beit 'U r, where the f^ill along the ridge from Beit 'U r el Foka to Beit 'Ur et Tahta is 700 feet in a mile and a half. To the south the spurs are longer. Thus at Bab el Wad, where the sudden descent of 700 feet occurs in about a mile the distance from the I — 2 4 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. watershed is 1 1 miles, and so also in W a d y e s S u r a r the end of the higher hills occurs 1 1 miles west of the watershed. The ground is open in the neighbourhood of B e i t li n i a, e r Ram and el Jib, where three small plains occur. The first, south of the village, extends some 3 miles, and is about \ mile wide. It runs into the plain, which extends for 2 miles west of el Jib, which village stands on a high hill above it. The third plain, immediately west of the watershed and east of the other two, is separated from them by a ridge running north and south, and extends about a mile either way. The principal valleys which run to the Mediterranean in this district are Wady Selman and W a d y 'A 1 y, the first rising about a mile west of el Jib, the second west of Saris, and both uniting at K u b a b in the Shephelah. A third important valley has its head in the open ground between .S 6 b a and Kiiryet el 'Enab, and thence runs south-west to join Wady es Surar, the junction occurring near 'Art u f. Wady Selman is a narrow valley with steep sides, some 700 feet deep, and bare and stony. Wady ' A 1 y is of the same character, but not so long ; in about 3 miles it has a fall of 1,100 feet. The hills in this district are of hard crystalline limestone, with steep sides. They are clothed with brushwood, and have a less barren appearance than the hills along the watershed ; from the western ends of the ridges good views are obtained over the low hills and maritime plain. III. The 'Ark lib is a long ridge running out of the watershed north of R a s e s h S h e r i f e h ; on the north is Wady es Surar; on the south Wady M u s i r r. The former valley is joined by Wady Ahmed, which rises near the B u r a k, and runs away east of Beit Jala as an open valley, and thence round to B i 1 1 i r, in which neigh- bourhood it becomes a deep gorge ; thence it runs west to join Wady e s S li r a r, near 'A k u r. Thus a triangular district is enclosed be- tween Wady Ahmed and Wady Surar, and a ridge runs out from the flat hills west of Jerusalem, and is enclosed between the two valleys, rising 1,000 to 1,200 feet above them. The ridge of the 'Ark u b runs out some 8 miles from the watershed, and has an elevation of 2,600 feet towards the east, and 1,800 feet on the {SHEET XVIL] OROGRAPHY. 5 west. Smaller spurs run out from it. Wady Musirr, which bounds it on the south, runs into Wady es Sunt. It breaks down rapidly from the high ridge of Ras esh Sherifeh, and becomes almost im- mediately a narrow and deep valley. The 'Ark u b is bounded on the west by an open valley, Wady en N a j il, which runs north, separating off the lower hills from the higher. This peculiar feature is again found further south. (See Sheet XXI., Wady es Sunt.) In general character the 'Ark u b resembles the last-mentioned hills in the second district, being of hard crystalline lime- stone with steep slopes, and covered with brushwood, which in parts is very thick. IV. The Shephela h. — The low hills to the west of those already described form an entirely distinct district, to which in the Talmud the name Shephelah is applied. The western higher ridges break down suddenly, as above explained, and the lower hills are very flat, with open valleys between. This district measures about 9 miles across, east and west, the elevation being about 1,000 feet on the east and 600 to 500 feet on the west. The hills are of soft chalky limestone, and the valleys are fertile, with good soil. South of Wady es Siirar these hills are, on an average, somewhat higher, and covered with scrub. The valley is nearly a mile wide, and cultivated with corn. The white hills to the north of it are about 200 feet high, with steep sides ; those immediately to the south are of about equal elevation, but rise into the prominent peak of e 1 K h e i s h li m (1,245 '^^^^ above the sea), which is a conspicuous feature. The southern block of the Shephelah hills is connected with the 'Arkub by a narrow ridge near Beit Nettif; but the valley before noticed, Wady en Najil, almost separates them, and forms a marked division between the two districts. HvDRGGRArHY. — The water-supply of the Judean hills on this Sheet is inferior to that further north (Sheets XI. and VIII.), and Jerusalem itself is remarkable for its insufificient supply, having only one spring ('A i n U mm ed Deraj). In the watershed hills the supply is princi- pally from deep wells, cisterns, and rock-cut tanks. South of Bethlehem there are, however, in the neighbourhood of U r t a s, three moderate 6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. springs ('A i n U r t a s, 'A i n S a 1 e h, ' A i n 'A t a n), which feed the Jerusalem aqueduct. East of Bethany there is also a good spring in the valley, by the main road to Jericho — 'A in H a u d. The hills west of the watershed are better supplied, the springs being numerous, though not very large. Between Neby Samwil and Beit H a n i n a a group of six springs occurs — 'A in Abu Z i a d, 'A i n el Emir, ' A i n J a k u k, 'A i n M a 1 a k a h, 'A i n e s h S h d t i r, 'A i n e t T u w a 1 y. The springs in the neighbourhood of K u 1 6 n i e h also give a good supply of water, and a stream runs down the valley in the wet season. Between S 6 b a and K il r y e t el 'E n a b there is also a good supply, and the valley becomes swampy in winter. The 'A r k u b is also a district abounding in springs of moderate size. In Wa d y el We rd, south-west of Jerusalem, are the two good springs, ' A i n Y a 1 o and 'A in Hanniyeh; and further down, in the neigh- bourhood of el Welej eh, there is a group of five springs within about \ mile of one another, The remaining springs of this district are noticed with the neighbouring villages. The Shephelah district is supplied almost entirely by spring-wells, the water runninsj beneath the surface. In the neis^hbourhood of K h u r b et Kefr Urieh there are several fine groups of springs, including 'A i n S u w e i d e h, 'A y u n e t T i n e h, 'A y u n Abu M e h a r i b, 'A y u n el Kharjeh. In the valley north of K h fi r b e t el Yarmiik there is also a succession of springs, which flow from excavations called Hufiyir en Neby Bulus. The great spring-wells are often of apparently great antiquity, as, for instance, that near Z a k a r i y a, which is very large. Cultivation. — The watershed hills are cultivated with barley and other crops, but the soil is poor, and the crops inferior to those in the plain and Shephelah. In the neighbourhood of Jerusalem olives and vines are cultivated over an area of 9 square miles. Round Bethlehem the cultiva- tion is similar, the vineyards being to the north and west. The cultivation in the western hills round the villares is of similar character, but the vine-cultivation is less extensive than near Hebron or in the north. {SHEET XVII.] TOPOGRAPHY. 7 In the Shephelah the corn-cultivation is more extensive than in the hills, and inWady es Siirar especially the barley is very fine. The olives in the hills are grown on terraces which have been built up with stone retaining-walls. These terraces are sometimes found in parts not now cultivated, and there can be no question that the cultivation might be very much extended, especially in the district of the 'A r k u b. Wady el Werd, west of Jerusalem, is so named from the fields of roses which extend for over a mile along the bottom of the valley from M a 1 h a h to 'A i n Y a 1 o. They are used for rose-water and sherbet in Jerusalem. Topography. — There are (including Jerusalem) one hundred inhabited towns and villages on the Sheet belonging to various Government divisions of the country under the M u t a s e r r i f of Jerusalem. These may be enumerated according to the districts. I. — Beni Haritii el Kibliyeh. 1. 'A i n 'A r i k (L s). — A small stone hamlet in a deep valley with a Greek church, the inhabitants being Greek Christians. There is a good spring to the west with a small stream. The place is surrounded with olives, and there are lemons and other trees round the water in a thick grove. This place is probably Archi, on the boundary of Benjamin, between Bethel and Beth Horon (Joshua xvi. 2). It is also marked as Arecha on the map of Marino Sanuto, 1321 a.d. 2. D e i r I b z i a. — (See Sheet XIV.) 3. S uf fa (K s). — A small village standing high on a ridge, with a well to the east and a sacred place to the south. II. — Jebel el Kuds. I. 'A n a t a (N t). — A village of moderate size, the houses of stone : it stands on a high ridge commanding a fine view to the north and east. The view extends as far as T a i y i b e h ; and c r R a m, J e b d, and H i z m e h are visible. There are a few olives round the village, and a well on the west and another on the south-east. 'A n a t a is the ancient Anathoth of Benjamin (Joshua xxi. 18). It was known to Eusebius as 8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. about 3 Roman miles north of Jerusalem, and is described by Josephus as 20 stadia (Ant. x. 7, 3) from the city. The distance is 2\ English miles from 'A n a t a to the nearest part of Jerusalem. (Cf. Section B.) 2. Beit H a n i n a (M t). — A village of moderate size, of stone houses, standing on very rocky ground on the ridge between two valleys. It is surrounded with olives, and has springs to the west at some little distance. Vineyards also occur near the village. This place is apparently the ancient Ananiah of Benjamin near Hazor (Neh. xi. 32). K hiirbet H a z z u r is immediately west of the village. 3. Beit Iksa(L s). — A village on a ridge above the deep Wady Beit H a n i n a. It is of moderate size, with stone houses, and a well on the north, near which is the sacred tree of N e b y L e i m n. There .are a few olives round the village. ' The men of Beit Iksa told me that their village bears also the name of Umm el Ela ; another of those double names that I have so often pointed out. The present inhabitants belong to the Beni Zeid, and come from the north ; they obtained possession of Umm el Ela, and gave it the new name of Beit Iksa. The ethnical name to which Iksa belongs is Keswani, in the plural Kesawne — B eit Iksan or Ikswan. We must, therefore, in Palestine topography, keep account of the migration of names transported with the population from one place to another.' — C. Clermont Ganneau. 4. Beit Unia (L r). — A good-sized village ot stone, surrounded by olives, standing high on a flat rocky ridge, with a plain to the east. To the east are cisterns, wine-presses, and a pond (el B a 1 u a), which contains water in winter. On the north and east are rock-cut tombs with well-cut entrances, but blocked up. 5. Bir Nebala (L s). — A village of moderate size, standing high, with a valley to the west. There are a few olives round the place. 6. Bireh (M s). — A village standing high on the watershed, to the east of the main road. The village is of good size, and the houses are fairly well built. Towards the south are remains of a Khan, wuth a sloping revetement to the outer wall. South-east and north-east of the village are large quarries. Vineyards and olive groves surround the place. One house has an old ornamented lintel over its door, with three rosettes in relief. The most conspicuous building is a tower, partly ancient, on the north. The threshing-floors are on the west. {SHEET XVIL] TOPOGRAPHY. 9 Outside the village on the south-west is a good spring, with a sacred place built over it and a trough on the east side. Towards the north-east are the ruins of the Crusading Church (Section B). The ground round the place is rocky, with a few olives. This village is the ancient Beeroth of Benjamin (Joshua ix. 1 7). In the Middle Ages the place was called La Grande Mahomerie (Cart, de S. Sep.). It is mentioned under this name by William of Tyre. The church, with a hospice attached, was completed by the Templars (to whom the place belonged) in 11 46 a.d. (Cart, de S. Sep.). (See Du Vogue, ' Eglises de Terre Sainte,' p. 339.) The population of B i r e h is about 800, including a few Orthodox Greeks. 7. Burkah (M s). — A good-sized village standing high on a bare hill-side, with a spring in the valley to the south. 8. Deir Diwan (N s). — A large and well-built stone village, standing on flat ground, with a rugged valley to the north and open ground to the south. There are a few scattered olives round the place. The inhabitants are partly Christian. 9. Hizmeh (N s). — A small stone village, standing high on a prominent hill, the slopes of which are covered with olives. It has a well to the west. This place is the ancient Azmaveth (Neh. vii. 28). 10. Jebd (N s). — A village of moderate size standing on a rocky knoll. On the north is a deep valley (W a d y S u w e i n i t) ; on the south the ground falls less abruptly, but is very rocky ; on the west the ridge is flat; and on the east is a plain extending for about i^^ miles, and about \ mile wide north and south. This plain is open arable land, extending to the brink of the precipitous cliffs on the north. The village has caves beneath, at the foot of the knoll (see Section B), and there are olives on the west, north, and south. There is a central high house like a tower in the village. The view embraces M u k h m a s and extends as far as the neigh- bourhood of Deir Diwan and T a i y i b e h. On the south 'A n a t a and Hizmeh are seen. The north end of the Dead Sea is also visible. J e b a is the ancient Geba of Benjamin (Joshua xxi. 17). 11. Jedireh (Ms). — A small village on a slope, surrounded by VOL. III. 2 lo THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. figs and olives, and with rock-cut tombs to tlie north. This place is probably Gederah of Benjamin (i Chron. xii. 4). 12, El Jib (M s). — The village stands on the end of a hill, rising 300 feet above the valley. On the south is a narrow plain, and there is an open valley on the east, whilst to the north and west there is also a flat plain. The hill is thus isolated, and a position naturally of great strength. The houses cover the northern part of the hill. The village is of moderate size, the houses of stone, with a central tower, and massive foundations exist among the modern buildings. On the east, rather lower than the village and a little below the top of the ridge, is the spring, which issues from a cave. Below it are remains of a good-sized reservoir. There are many springs on the south and west, and caves in the southern side of the hill. Olives, figs, pears, apples, and vines are cultivated round the village and in the plain ; there are also extensive corn-fields in the low ground. (See Section B.) El J i b is the ancient Gibeon (Joshua ix. 3). One of the most curious features of the scenery is the great regularity with which the horizontal strata of rock occur, the hills being stepped with natural terraces, which give them the appearance of being contoured as seen from the summit ofNeby Samwil. Three ancient roads join at el Jib, coming from the maritime plain. The site seems to have been known in the Middle Ages, and to have been then called Gran David (Benjamin of Tudela). ' The present village is situated on the northern and smaller top of the double hill which, shaped like a figure 8, lies in a kind of basin north of Neby Samwil. This basin is a tract of fertile ground — producing pears, grapes, figs, almonds, etc., in addition to the usual ground- crops and olives — formed by an eccentric watershed, which, beginning at the end of Wady Selaian, in the first instance flows due east; then turning southwards, round Bir Nabala, passes Lifta and 'Ain Karim, and eventually reaches the Mediterranean near Yabneh. The heads of this Wady to the north of el Jib are called Wady Askar and Wady Hammud, which latter comes down from the north-east of Beitunia, divided by a low watershed from an upper valley, a rise in the bed of which forms a barrage. Above this a pool, covering some 6 to 8 acres to a depth of 20 feet, is formed during the winter. It is termed "el Balu'a" ("The Sink")'.— C. F. Tyrwhitt Drake, 'Quarterly Statement,' 1872, p. 174. 13. Kefr 'Akab (M s). — A small hamlet on the slope of a hill- side, with a few olives. 14. Kulundia (M s). — A small village on a swell, surrounded by {SHEET XVII] TOPOGRAPHY. 1 1 olives, with quarries to the west. Ancient tombs occur here. This was one of twenty-one villages given by King Godfrey to the Canons of the Holy Sepulchre.* * The villages (Casales) given as fiefs to the Holy Sepulchre Cathedral by Godfrey were as below (see ' Cartulary of H. Sep.') Ainquine . Armotieh . Kefreachab Kefredil . Bubil Hubim . Aram Kalandie . Bet Digge Mahomeria Major Sabaiet . Uniet Zenum Helmule . Beithelamus Barithmeta Beithumen Beitfuteier Beit Surie (Parva Mahomeria) Aineseins (Valdccurs) 'Ain Kanieh Arnutieh Kefr 'Akab Hubin er Ram Kulundia Beit Dukku Bireh Soba Beitunia Beit Lahm Beit Anan Beit Surik 'Ain Sinia To these were added by Baldwin I., in the same district, the Castle of St. Lazarus in Bethany, afterwards exchanged for Tekoa and the villages of Benehatie Benehabeth Ragabam Roma which are nearer Nablus than the preceding. Beni Harith Rujib Rumeh Baldwin V. added other gifts, viz., the villages of Bethel . Odermamel Der Sabeb Corteis Deir Musin Huetdebes Bcitin Deir Shabib Deir Muheisin all sold by Hugh of Ybclin to the Canons. 2 — 2 12 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. 15. Miikhmas (N s). — A small stone village on the slope of a ridge. The houses are poor and scattered. The water supply is from cisterns. It has a well to the east, and some scattered figs to the west. On the north are rock-cut tombs ; an ancient road leads past the place. There are foundations and remains of former buildings in the village ; on the south a steep slope leads down to the great valley, Wady Suweinit. This place is the ancient Michmash, which is placed by the ' Onpmasticon ' (s. v. Machmas) 9 Roman miles from Jerusalem. The distance is 7^ English or 8 Roman miles in a line. (See Section B.) 16. Neby Samwil (Ms). — A small hamlet of mud hovels; is perched on the top of the ridge, amid the remains of the Crusading ruins. There is a spring to the north ('A in el Belled). This place is apparently first mentioned by Procopius as St. Samuel (De yEdific. Just, v. 9) ; in the Middle Ages it went by the same name, and was also identified with Shiloh (Benjamin of Tudela), and called Mount Joy (' Citez de Jherusalem '). The church was finished in 1157A.D. (see Du VogUe ' Eglises,' p. 339). The distance from Betenuble (Beit Nuba, is given in 1187 ('Citez de Jherusalem') as 5 leagues, and 3 leagues from the north gate of Jerusalem. In later times the place was supposed to be Ramathaim Zophim (Quaresmius, 1620 a.d.), but this latter site was shown as late as the fourteenth century at Ramleh (Marino Sanuto, 1 32 1 A.D.). Benjamin of Tudela speaks of the removal of the bones of Samuel from Ramleh to Neby Samwil at the time of the taking of the former place by the Crusaders. In the twelfth century the place was a fief of the Holy Sepulchre. ' The view from this place, which is usually identified with Mizpeh, is extensive. It includes Mount Gerizim and the promontory of Carmel to the north ; Jaffa, Ramleh, and a wide stretch of the maritime plain to the west ; Jebel Furaydis (the so-called Frank mountain), the far distant mountains of Jebal, the town of Kerak, Jebel Shihan (the highest In the I,ydda district the Church possessed Capharuth ..... Kefr Rut Gith ...... Jett Porphilia ...... Berfiha Kefrescilta ..... Kefr Shilta Bermanaym ..... Bir M'ain In the Nablus district they also held Kefr Malik and exchanged it for Megina (Umm Jina) and Mezera (Mezr'ah). They had other towns in Philistia, Galilee, Phoenicia, etc., making sixty-four villages in all. — C.R.C. {SHEET XVII.] TOPOGRAPHY. 13 point in Moab), are seen to the south and south-east ; the continuation of the trans-Jordanic plateau, with slightly undulating outline, stretches to the east and north-east. This reputed tomb of Samuel has naturally formed an important trigonometrical station, and is one of the few points known to me whence Jaffa and Jerusalem are both visible.' — C. F. Tyrwhitt Drake^ 'Quarterly Statement,' 1872, p. 174. 17. Er Ram (M s). — A small village in a conspicuous position on the top of a high white hill, with olives. It has a well to the south. This place is the ancient Ramah of Benjamin (Joshua xviii. 25), mentioned by Jerome (' Comm. in Hosea,' v. 8) as near Gabaa (J e b a), and 7 Roman miles from Jerusalem. The true distance is 5 English miles. It is marked on the map of Marino Sanuto, and was a fief of the Holy Sepulchre Church. The houses are of stone, partly built from old materials, as described in Section B. 18. Ram-Allah (M g). — A large Christian village, of well-built stone houses, standing on a high ridge, with a view on the west extending to the sea. It stands amongst gardens and olive-yards, and has three springs to the south and one on the west ; on the north there are three more, within a mile from the villasfe. On the east there is a well. There are rock-cut tombs to the north-east with well-cut entrances, but completely blocked with rubbish. In the village is a Greek church, and on the east a Latin convent and a Protestant schoolhouse, all modern buildings. The village lands are Wakiif, or ecclesiastical property, belonging to the Haram of Jerusalem. About a quarter of the inhabitants are Roman Catholics, the rest Orthodox Greeks. This place is one of the possible sites for Ramathaim Zophim. 19. Ra-fat (J t). — A small hamlet on a ridge, with a spring to the west, and many rock-cut tombs. The name is radically connected with that of Irpeel of Benjamin (Joshua xviii. 27). (See Section B.) 20. Shafat (M t). — A small village, standing on a flat spur im- mediately west of the watershed, surrounded with olive-trees. It has wells to the north. There is a sacred chapel of Sultan Ibrahim in the village. This place is suggested as the site of the ancient Mizpah of Benjamin (Joshua xviii. 26), 'over against Jerusalem' (i Mace. iii. 46), a place possibly identical with Nob. The modern name is derived from the Hebrew Jehoshaphat, but may perhaps be a corruption of the old THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Mizpeh or Sapha. Jerusalem is visible from the neighbourhood of the village. There are ancient tombs to the south, on the sides of the valley. ' This name contains the radicals of the Hebrew Jehoshaphat, and the natives of the place state it to have been named after a king of Jerusalem. A place of the name Jehoshaphat is noticed near Jerusalem by Marino Sanuto, and Fetellus in his account of the city describes the Church of St. Stephen as between Jerusalem and Jehoshaphat. This church was outside the Damascus gate, and it would seem that Fetellus means S h 'a f a t by Jehoshaphat. The name of this town was perhaps altered by the Crusaders, or slightly modified from the word S h 'a f (in the plural S h 'a f a t), meaning a " mountain top," or any high place, like the Hebrew Nob.' — C. E.. C, 'Quarterly Statement,' 1877, p. 141. III. — Beni 'Amir or Beni Humar, A district under the Governor of Jaffa, who is again under the Muta- serriff of Jerusalem ; contains the following (see also Sheet XIV.) : 1. 'Am was (J s). — A mud village, of moderate size, built against the slope of the hill. On the south side of the village is a spring, 'A i n Nini; on the west a well, Bir et Taaun. There are ruins to the north, which show the place to have been formerly much larger. Rock- cut tombs exist to the south-east. This place is the famous Emmaus Nicopolis ; and if the longer distance of 160 furlongs found in the Sinaitic MS. of Luke xxiv. 13 be accepted, it is probably the Emmaus of the New Testament. This is, however, doubtful, as mentioned later in the present Section under the head Emmaus. (See Section B.) 2. 'A n n a b e h (J s). — A village of moderate size, on high ground, surrounded with olives, with a well to the south. The houses are of mud. It is mentioned by Jerome (' Onomasticon,' s. v., Anob) as 4 Roman miles east of Lydda, and as called Betho Annaba. The distance fits almost exactly. 3. Beit Nuba (K s). — A good-sized village on flat ground, with a well to the north. It is mentioned under the name Beth Annabam (' Onomasticon,' s. v. Anob) as 8 Roman miles from Lydda. The true distance is about 9 English miles. Jerome (Epit. S. Paula;) makes it the site of Nob. Benjamin of Tudela (i 163 a.d.) makes the same statement. In Crusading times the place was commonly called Betenuble (William of Tyre, etc.). {SHEET XVII.'\ TOPOGRAPHY. 15 4. B e r f i 1 y a (J s). — A small hamlet on rising ground, some 200 feet above the valley, with a few olives. In the twelfth century it was a fief of the Holy Sepulchre. 5. Bir Mdin (K s). — A small hamlet on high ground, with a well about half a mile south-east. It was a fief of the Holy Sej)ulchre Church in the twelfth century. 6. El B u r j (K s). — A small village on a hill-top, with open ground beneath on all sides. There are remains of a Crusading fortress (K li 1 a t et Tanturah), and the position is a strong one, near the main road to Lydda. It is possible that this is the site of the Castellum Arnoldi, near Nobe (Beit Nub a), ' in primis auspiciis campestrum,' built in 1 131 a.d. by the Patriarch of Jerusalem, to protect the approach to that city (William of Tyre). 7. D e i r E y u b (K t). — A very small hamlet on the hill-side. There is a fine spring-well (Bir Eyub) about half a mile south-west by the main road, lower clown the hill. The water comes up in a circular masonry shaft. 8. Khiirbetha Ibn es Seba (K s). — A small village on a ridge, with a well to the east. 9. K u b a b (J s). — A small mud village on rising ground, by the main road. It is surrounded with prickly-pear hedges and olives. The ground is rocky. The water-supply is from the fine spring of 'A i n Yerdeh (Sheet XVI.). This spring is \\ miles from the village, yet is the only source whence water is obtained. 10. Latron (J s). — A few mud hovels among the ruins of a mediaeval fortress. This place is mentioned by L^oucher of Chartres (about 1 100 A.D.) under the name Castellum Emmaus, and appears to be the Toron cle los Cabalcros of Benjamin of Tudcla. The former authority speaks of Modin and Gibcon as being close to it. Ouaresmius (1620 a.d.) speaks of a church dedicated to the Maccabees immediately north of Latron, which was then called Castellum boni Latronis. Marino Sanuto (132 1 A.D.) also mentions the tombs of the Maccabees apparently near Latron. In the earlier chronicles before the Crusades the place is not noticed. The position is a strong one, commanding the road, with a i6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Steep slope on the west. The road descends agahi on the east. On the south, in the low ground, is a good spring-well surrounded with masonry (Bir el Helu). (See Section B.) IV.— Beni Malik. 1. El 'A m m u r (L t). — A small hamlet on the slope above a deep valley. There is a fine perennial spring below on the south ('A i n M a h t u s h). There are olives beneath the village. 2. Beit 'A n a n (L s). — A small village on the top of a flat ridge ; near a main road to the west are remains of a Khan with water, and about a mile to the east is a spring. It was a fief of the Holy Sepulchre in the twelfth century. 3. Beit Dukku (L s). — A village of moderate size, standing high on a ridge, with a spring to the north-west and olives to the north. This was also a fief like the preceding. 4. Beit Izza (L s). — A village of moderate size on a hill with a spring at some distance to the west. 5. Beit Likia (K s). — A small village on a main road at the foot of the hills, supplied by cisterns. There are ancient foundations among the houses. The name suggests the identity with E 1 1 e k e h, a border town of Dan (Joshua xix. 44), and the position is suitable, as being near the boundary between that tribe and Benjamin. 6. Beit Mahsir (K t). — A village of moderate size, standing on a hill at the end of the higher spurs overlooking the lower hills on the west. It has olives to the north and a spring to the north-east. 7. Beit Nakuba (L t). — A small village on the slope, north of the main road and of the fine perennial spring of 'A i n D i 1 b e h. 8. Beit Sira (K s). — A small village on a swell in the low hills. A main road passes through it. The water supply is artificial. 9. Beit Siirik (L t). — A small stone village on a hill-top. To the east in a flat valley is a spring with lemon and other trees. The place appears to be ancient, having rock-cut tombs near the spring. It was a fief of the Holy Sepulchre in the twelfth century. {SHEET XVII.] TOPOGRAPHY. 17 10. Beit 'Ur el Foka (Ls). — A small village built of stone at the end of a spur on a knoll. The ground falls very steeply to the west. The water supply is artificial, and on the north and south are deep valleys. (See Section B.) The west view is very extensive, including the sea, the plains of Lydda and Ramleh, and part of the valley of Ajalon. 11. Beit 'Ur et Tahta (K s). — A village of moderate size on a low ridge with wells to the west. In the middle of the village is the sacred place of Neby 'Or, with a palm tree in the courtyard: near it is a well in the street. (See Section B for antiquities.) This, with the last, represent the Upper and Lower Beth Horon (Joshua xviii. 13, 14). The distance from Jerusalem is given in the ' Onomasticon ' (s. v. Bethoron) as just {ferme) 12 Roman miles. Josephus makes Beth Horon 50 stadia from Gibeon (el Jib), and 100 stadia (12^ Roman miles) from Jerusalem (B. J. ii. 19, i). The distances are 5 English miles and 10 English miles by road from the upper village to el Jib and Jerusalem. The two villages are i\ miles apart, with a descent of 700 feet to Beit 'Ur et Tahta. (See Section B.) The name occurs in the twelfth century as a fief of the Holy Sepulchre. 12. Biddu (L s). — A village on a rocky hill, with a well to the north east. It is of moderate size. 13. Katanneh (L t). — A small village in a deep, narrow, rocky valley, surrounded by fine groves of olives and vegetable gardens. 14. E l K u b e i b e h (L s). — A village of moderate size, standing on a flat ridge with a few olives to the west. It commands a fine view to the north over the low hills. To the west is a monastery of Latin monks, established in 1862. In the grounds are remains of a Crusading Church. (See Section B.) This place has been the traditional site of the Emmaus of the New Testament from the sixteenth century. 15. Kulonieh (L t). — A stone village of moderate size, perched on the slope of the hill 300 feet above the valley, in which is a good spring surrounded with orange, lemon, and other trees. By the road is a small restaurant, quite modern. This place is apparently mentioned in the Talmud (Tal. Bab. Succah, 45 a), being close to Motza {perhaps Khurbet Beit Mizzeh). It is also the Culon of the Septuagint. (Joshua XV. 59, inserted verse.) VOL. III. 3 i8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. 16. Kuryet el 'Enab (L t). — A large well-built stone village on a flat hill, with low open ground to the north and east. The low ground is cultivated with vines and olives. The most conspicuous object is the fine ruined church of St. Jeremiah, below the village on the north. (See Section B.) A palm grows near it. This place was supposed in the fourth century to be Kirjath Jearim. The ' Onomasticon ' places it 9 or 10 Roman miles from Jerusalem. The true distance is 7 English miles. A late tradition identifies it with Anathoth. The place is generally called either Abu Ghosh, from the native family of the name who lived there, or el K u r y e h, very rarely Kuryet el 'Enab. The second name suggests the identity of Kirjath of Benjamin (Joshua xviii. 28), and the place is in a suitable position, near Gibeah (J e b a), the next name on the list. 17. K li s t u 1 (L t). — A small stone village in a conspicuous position on a rocky hill-top. There are springs beneath the main-road to the east, about \ mile from the village. 18. Lifta (M t). — A village of moderate size, perched on the side of a steep hill, with a spring to the south, on which side are rock-cut tombs. The spring is large. This place is most probably Eleph of Benjamin (Joshua xviii. 28). 19. Saris (K t). — A stone village of moderate size on a hill above the main road. On the north beneath the village is a spring. There are olive groves on the slopes on this side. This is possibly the Sores of the Septuagint (Joshua xv.), (see Reland's ' Palestine,' p. 644), and possibly the Saris of Josephus (Ant. vi. 12, 4). 20. S 6 b a (L t). — A stone village of moderate size, in a very con- spicuous position on the top of a steep conical hill. It has a high central house. The knoll is surrounded with olive groves and vineyards. There are rock-cut tombs both on the north and on the south. The hill stands up 700 or 800 feet above the valley on the north. There is a good spring in the valley on this side, and another ('A in S 6 b a) in the valley to the south-west. There are remains of a Crusading fortress, which was de- stroyed by Ibrahim Pasha. The place was at one time a fortress of the Abu Ghosh family. S 6 b a was considered at one time to be Modin. Brocardus (1283 a,d.) makes Modin 6 leagues east of Beth Shemesh {SHEET XVII.] TOPOGRAPHY. 19 ('Ain Shems). The village or the district appears to have been called Belmont in the twelfth century; and Soba was apparently a fief of the Holy Sepulchre (see Theodoricus 11 72, a.d., and the Cartulary of the Holy Sepulchre). (See Section B.) 21. Tireh (L s). — A small hamlet on a ridge, with a large sacred tree to the north-east (S he i k h Hasan), and a spring ('A in J u f n a) in the valley to the south-west. 22. Yalo (K s). — A small village on the slope of a low spur, with an open valley or small plain to the north. There is a spring to the east, where a branch valley runs down north, and on the east side of this valley are caves. The village stands 250 feet above the northern basin. Yalo is the ancient Aijalon of Dan (Joshua xix. 42). The open basin to the north — part of a valley which comes down from Beth Horon — is the valley of Aijalon (Joshua x. 12). In the 'Onomasticon' the place is mentioned as 2 Roman miles from Nicopolis ('Am was), on the way to Jerusalem. The true distance is 3^ English miles, but Jerome is speaking only from report. The identity of the place with Aijalon was not then recognised, though known to the Jews. (See Aijalon, Sheet XIV., Section A.) V. — Beni Hasan. I. 'A i n Karim (L t). — A flourishing village of about 600 in- habitants, 100 being Latin Christians. It stands on a sort of natural terrace projecting from the higher hills on the east of it, with a broad Hat valley below on the west. On the south below the village is a fine spring ('A in S i 1 1 i M i r i a m), with a vaulted place for prayer over it. The water issues from a spout into a trough. To the east of the village is the Franciscan Church of the Magnificat, in a convent. It has a domed roof, which is a conspicuous object, and the church has a grotto beneath, where St. John the Baptist is supposed to have been born. There is also on the west of the village an establishment of the Sisters of Sion, with cypress trees in the garden. To the south- west, opposite the village, and separated by a ravine, is the chapel, built in 1862 on older ruins, supposed to mark the site of the country-house of Zacharias, and the scene of the Visitation. (See Section B.) 3—2 20 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. The Church of St. John or of the Magnificat is mentioned in 1 1 13 A.D. ; it was rebuilt in 1621, The Franciscans have established a school for boys, and the Sisters of Sion a school and orphanage for girls. The place has a flourishing appearance. A new Russian hospice was being built in 1882, just west of the country house of Zacharias, above mentioned. 'Ain Karim is the ancient Karem (Septuagint, Joshua xv. 59), and possibly the Biblical Beth Car (i Samuel vii. 11). It seems probable that 'Ain Karim is also the true site of Beth-haccerem (' house of the vine- yard '), Neh. iii. 14, Jer. vi. i, although Jerome, in commenting on the latter passages, places the site near Tekoa. It is frequently mentioned in the mediaeval chronicles as the birth-place of St. John. John of Witzburg makes it 4 miles south of Jerusalem, and Fetellus 5 miles, these beinof the earliest notices. «_> 2. Beit Jala (M u). — A large and flourishing village of white well-built stone houses, on the slope of a steep hill. The water supply is artificial, with a well in the valley below. The population is said by Pere Lievin to amount to 3,000, of whom 420 are Catholics, and the rest Orthodox Greeks. There is a Greek and a Latin church in the village. There are remarkably fine groves of olives round and beneath the village, and the hill above is covered with vineyards which belong to the place. Beit Jala is the Galemor Gallim of the Septuagint (Joshua xv. 59, possibly also in I Samuel xxv. 44, Isaiah x. 30). 3. Beit S li f a f a (M u). — A small village in flat open ground, with a well to the north. 4. B i 1 1 i r (L u). — A village of moderate size on the precipitous slope of a deep valley, which bends sharply, the hill on which the place stands projecting at the bend of the valley. The houses stand upon rock terraces, and there is a rocky scarp below ; thus from the north the place is very strong, whilst on the south a narrow neck between two ravine heads connects the hill with the main ridge. The valleys east and west are steep and deep. The spring above the village is large and good ; the water is conducted down from it west of the houses in a cement-lined channel, and runs into a large reservoir, the aqueduct ending suddenly at a broken arch, of modern masonry and pointed form, the pier being over [SHEET XVII.] TOPOGRAPHY. the east wall of the reservoir, so that the water pours down from it in a cascade. From the reservoir the water finds its way to neat vegetable gardens in the valley beneath ; these occupy all the space under the rocky scarps at the junction of the main northern valley with the steep ravine (west of the village) in which the reservoir is built. Near the spring are caves and niches, with an effaced Greek inscription. The village is badly built of stone, and contains two Mukams. There are rock-cut tombs about a mile to the east. This place is probably the famous Esther of the Talmud where Bar Cocheba was slain, and the Bether (or Thether) of the Septuagint (Joshua XV. 59). (See Reland's ' Palestine,' p. 639.) 5. Deir Yesin (M t). — A small stone village on a flat ridge, commanding a fine view to the west over the deep valley. Its houses are badly built of stone, and there is a well to the north, and two springs on the north and south \ and f mile respectively from the village. The ground is bare, and very rocky in the neighbourhood of the village. This place was a fief of the Holy Sepulchre Church in the twelfth century. 6. E 1 J u r a h (L t). — A small hamlet on the slope of the ridge, with olives below it, and a spring in the valley, about f mile to the north. 7. Khiirbet el Loz (L t). — A village of moderate size on the slope of a high ridge near the summit. It has a sort of terrace below it, and stands some 800 feet above the southern valley. There are rock-cut tombs at the place. 8. M al h a h (L t). — A stone village of moderate size, standing high on a flat ridge. The water supply is from the fine spring of 'A i n Y a 1 o, to the south, in the valley. The immediate neighbourhood of the village is bare, but there are vineyards to the east, and on the south olives and roses are cultivated. Malhah is the Manocho of the Septuagint (Joshuaxv. 59, inserted verse), and probably the Biblical Manahath, which was in Idumcea, according to the Chaldee Targum (i Chron. viii. 6). There are rock-cut tombs east of the village, which indicate its antiquity. (See Section B.) 22 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. g. S e t a f (L t), — A village of moderate size, of stone houses, perched on the steep side of a valley. It has a spring lower down, on the north. 10. Sherafat (M u). — A village of moderate size, on a low hill. The houses are of stone. The water-supply is from 'A i n Y a 1 o, 300 feet beneath, in the valley to the west. 11. El Welejeh (L u). — A good-sized village on the slope of the hill, in a sort of recess formed by a steep ravine running down immedi- ately north of the houses. There are vegetable-gardens in this ravine below the village, and vineyards and olives in the neighbourhood, which has a good water-supply, five groups of springs occurring round the village. It is known to the Latins as St. Philip's, in connection with the tradition that the neighbouring 'A i n H a n n i y e h is the fountain where Si. Philip baptised the Eunuch (see Bethzur, Sheet XXI.), a tradition apparently not older than the fourteenth century. VI.— El 'Arkitb. 1. 'A k u r (K t). — A small village on a ledge of the ridge, surrounded by very rugged ground. There is a good spring on the north-east, about a mile from the village, on the same ridge. 2. 'Artuf (J t). — A small village on a low hill, with an open valley to the west. There is a pool (H i^i f i r e t 'A r 1 11 f) in the valley, whence the village obtains its water. Olive trees occur round the place. 3. Beit 'Atab (K t). — A small village, standing on a remarkable knoll of rock which rises some 60 to 100 feet above the surrounding hilly ridge. The knoll is extremely bare and rugged. There are cisterns among the houses, but the main water-supply is from 'A i n H a u d, near which, north-east of the village, the Survey camp was fixed. There are here a few olives on a terrace above a deep valley which runs north of the village. A little further west is another small spring ('A in el Khanzireh), by which is a rock-cut tomb. A third small spring ('A in Beit 'Atab) exists south-east of the village, coming out of a rock. A remarkable cavern (Miigharet Bir el Hasiitah) runs beneath the houses. (See Section B.) The place is built of stone, with a central high house, and one or two others of two stories. It was at one time the seat of a native family called Beit Lehha m. {SHEET XVII.] TOPOGRAPHY. 23 The position of the place, and the existence of a cave or 'cleft,' suggest the identity of Beit 'A tab with the 'Rock Etam ' (Judges xv.). In the twelfth century Beit 'Atab was a fief of the Holy Sepulchre. In preparing the nomenclature of this Sheet, I was led to search for the meaning of the name B i r el H a s 11 1 a h, which is given to this curious cave at Beit 'Atab. It has not, as far as I can find, any meaning in Arabic, but it corresponds with the Hebrew word, rniDn, Hasutah, which is translated ' a place of refuge.' Thus the name seems to indicate that this place has been used from a very early time as a lurking or hiding place, as we gather it to have been in the time of Samson. Beit 'Atab is a modern village, though there are traces of antiquity about it, including a rock-cut tomb. It seems probable that in the time of Samson no town existed here, as it would in such a case most probably have been mentioned with the fourteen Shephelah towns in its neighbour- hood. Etam has been confounded with the Etam of Solomon, which was situate farther east, probably near the so-called pools of Solomon. This name has been recovered in the modern 'A i n 'A t a n, to the east of the pools. Beit 'Atab stands, as has been previously explained, on a rocky knoll, answering well to the meaning of the Hebrew word translated ' rock,' quite bare of trees and consisting almost entirely of hard, barren lime- stone. This peculiar summit stands up from a plateau on the east, where is a good olive grove and a spring, by which we encamped. On the west the ground falls rapidly, and thus, though not really at a great elevation as compared with the surrounding hills, Beit 'Atab is very conspicuous on all sides. The cavern is in all some 250 feet long, running in a south-south-west direction. Its average height is about 5 to 8 feet, and its width about 18 feet. The west end of the tunnel is supposed to be about the centre of the modern village, but is now closed, as is another entrance about half- way along. The east end leads to a vertical shaft 6 feet by 5 feet and 10 feet deep, in the sides of which are niches, as if for lamps. It is from this shaft that the cavern has been called B i r, or ' well.' The shaft is about sixty yards from the spring which supplies the village with water, and which is called 'A i n II a u d. The whole cave is rudely hewn in the rock. (See Section B.) 24 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. The site so chosen is close to Zorah and Eshtaol, and on the border of the mountain country of Judah. The site of Ramoth Lehi is to be sought in the same district. 4. Beit el Jemal (J u). — A small village on a low flat ridge. There is a spring three quarters of a mile to the east. To the south are caves, in one of which is a mill owned by a Christian, and lately established. On revisiting the place, in 1S81, a Latin convent was found in process of construction. This place is perhaps the ancient Caphar Gamala, 20 miles from Jerusalem, where, according to the early Christian tradition, St. Stephen was buried. (See Reland's 'Palestine,' p. 688.) The place is about 16 English miles from Jerusalem. About half a mile south of it is a Mukam, named after St. Paul, which may be connected with this tradition. 5. Beit Nettif (J u). — A village of fair size, standing high on a flat-topped ridge between two broad valleys. On the south, about 400 feet below, is a spring ('A in el K e z b e h), and on the north a rock-cut tomb was found. There are fine olive-groves round the place, and the open valleys are very fertile in corn. The ' valley' of Beth Netopha (Mishnah Sheviith ix. 5), famous for its oil, may probably have been the open ground (as expressed by the Hebrew word nrp3, translated 'valley,' but more properly 'plain') beneath the village, which is still famous for its olive-groves. Possibly also this place may be the Biblical Netophah (Ezra ii. 22, Nehemiah vii. 26), but see below under that head. 6. Deir 'A b a n (K u). — A large village on the lower slope of a high ridge, with a well to the north, and olives on the east, west, and north. This place no doubt represents the fourth century site of Ebenezer (i Samuel iv. i), which is mentioned in the ' Onomasticon' (s. v. Ebenezer) as near Beth Shemesh. The village is 2 miles east of 'A in She m s. 7. Deir el Hawa (K t). — -A village standing high, on a knoll rising from a high ridge, with a deep valley to the north. It has several high houses in it. On the west is a good spring. The ground is covered with brushwood all round the place. 8. Deir esh Sheikh (K t). — A small village on the slope of a rugged valley, with a spring to the west. It was found deserted in 18S1. {SHEET XF//.] TOPOGRAPHY. 25 On the east is a small mosque, with a large dome, and a second smaller, it is named after Sultan Bedr ; a large palm grows in the courtyard. On the south-west of the village is a rock-cut tomb and a rock-hewn well. 9. 'Ellar (K t). — A small village on the slope of a ridge, with a well to the south. On the north are rock-cut tombs. 10. Eshua (J t). — A small village near the foot of the hill, with a well to the west, and olives beneath. The proximity to Surdh or Zorah suggests its identity with Eshtaol (Joshua xv. 33). In the ' Onomasticon,' Esthaul of Dan is placed 10 Roman miles north of Eleutheropolis, The place is 3 English miles north of Beit Jibrin (or Eleutheropolis), but the distance given by Eusebius is only approximate. (Compare S li r a h, below.) 11. Hausan (L u). — A small stone village on a flat ridge, with a steep valley to the north ; on the south is a well. There is a large and conspicuous oak south-west of the village. 12. Jeba (K u). — A small village standing upon a high, narrow ridge, with a steep valley to the north. The houses are of stone. To the east are caves in the face of the rock, I'his place is possibly Gibeah of Judah (Joshua xv, 57), mentioned with Timnah, which is perhaps the ruin of T i b n a, 2 miles north-west. In the ' Onomasticon,' Gabatha is mentioned 12 Roman miles from Eleuthero- polis, and containing the tomb of Habakkuk. The village is about 12 English miles from Eleutheropolis (Beit Jibrin). A ruin called H a b e i k exists near it on the west. 13. J e r a s h (K u). — A small village on a spur, with olives below. 14. El Kabu (L u). — A village of moderate size, on a high hill. The houses are of stone. There are two springs in the valley to the west, and a ruined church on the hill-side, south-west of the place, 15. K e f r S 6 m (L u). — A small stone village on a hill ; to the east in a small valley is a good spring, with a rock-cut tomb beside it. 16. Kesla (K t). — A small stone village in a conspicuous position on the top of a rugged ridge, with a deep valley to the north. There is a spring to the east, and two more in a valley to the south. This is the VOL. III. A 26 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. site of Chesalon, on the boundary of Judah (Joshua xv. lo). The thickets which cover the ridge fully correspond with the old title of Jearim. 17, El Khiidr (L u). — A village of moderate size on a hill-saddle, with open ground to the north and a steep ridge to the south. Rock-cut tombs exist to the north ; vineyards and olives surround the place. The ground in the neighbourhood is very rocky. The inhabitants are Moslems and Greek Orthodox Christians. There is a Greek church and convent in the village. This place is mentioned by the name of St. George in 1422 by John Poloner as on a hill near Bethlehem. The tradition that St. George was here imprisoned is not, however, found earlier than the fifteenth century, 18, Nehhalin (L u). — A village of moderate size, on a kind of natural terrace on the side of a ridge, with a great valley to the north. To the east is a Mukam, with two large oak-trees, sacred to Haj 'Aleiyan. (See Section C.) To the north is a spring in the valley ; there is also a second spring to the south. 19, Ras (Abu 'A m m a r) (L u). — A large stone village on a spur, with a fine spring in the valley to the north-west. The hill has only a little scrub on it, but the valley, which is open and rather Hat, has olives in it, 20, Es Sifleh (K u), — A small village on a narrow ridge, which falls rapidly from Beit 'A tab. On the south-east is a fine spring ('A in S i 1 1 i H a s n a) coming out of a cleft in the rocks, 21, Surah (J t), — A village of moderate size on a low hill. The hill is bare and white, but there are olives lower down the slopes to the north and east. On the north in a tributary valley is a well. On the south side of the village is a small Mukam, with a dome, standing in a conspicuous position above the broad fiat valley (W a d y e s S u r a r). It is dedicated to Neby Sam at. There are rock-cut tombs to the north-east and south of the village. The village obtains its water supply from a spring called 'Ain el Mardum, half a mile to the south, at the foot of the hill, Siirah is the ancient Zorah (Joshua xv. 33), the home of Samson, Traditions connect Neby Samat with Samson (see Section C), and the tomb seems to be that shown to Isaac Chelo as Samson's in T334 A.D. Zorah is placed by the ' Onomasticon' (s,v. Saara) about {SHEET XVII.] TOPOGRAPHY. 27 10 Roman miles north of Eleutheropolis. Siirah is about 12 English miles from Beit Jibrin (Eleutheropolis). A. 22. Urtas (M u). — A small village perched against a hill-side. It is badly built of stone, with a good spring beneath it, whence an aqueduct formerly led to J e b e 1 Fureidis. (Sheet XXI.) There are gardens of oranges and other trees in the valley below to the south, where are remains of a reservoir (Hummam Suleiman). There are vineyards to the north on the hill, and on the west is a rock-cut tomb. 23. Wad Fukin (L u). — A small stone village on the side of a hill, with a good spring in the valley below on the south-west. There are gardens of oranges and lemons near the spring. To the west of the village there are rock-cut tombs. To the east is a second spring, 'A i n el K e n i s e h. 24. Zakariya (J u). — A small village with a palm-tree growing in it, standing on the slope above the flat broad valley (Wady es Sun t), south of it. A large ancient masonry spring well exists at the foot of the hill ; to the east of this is a fine oak tree. The place is surrounded with extensive olive groves, and the ground is fertile in the valley. This place appears to be the Caphar Zachariah, mentioned by Sozomen (Hist. ix. 17), where the body of the father of St. John the Baptist was said to have been found. The place is stated to have been in the district of Eleutheropolis. There is a Mukam in the present village sacred to Neby Zakariya. VII. — El KeradIyeh. 1. Abu Dis (N t). — A village of moderate size in a conspicuous position on a bare fiat ridge, with deep valleys round it. The water- supply is from cisterns. Rock-cut tombs exist to the west. 2. El 'Aisawiyeh (M t). — A small village on the eastern slope of the chain of Olivet, with a spring to the south and a few olives round it. 3. El 'Aziriyeh (N t). — The modern name of Bethany, a village on the side of a hill, with a ravine running down on the east side of it. The houses are ill-built of stone. The village is dominated by the 4—2 28 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. remains of a Crusading building with a square tower. This appears to have been part of the convent here, founded by Queen MeHsende in 1138 A.D, (See Du Vogiie, ' Eglises de Terre Sainte,' p. 337.) The building is now called the Castle of Lazarus, and is so called by Maun- drell, 1697 A.D. At a place now shown as the house of Lazarus remains of a building with Gothic fragments exist north of the tower. The tomb of Lazarus has been shown in Bethany since the fourth century, when a church stood over it. It is now shown north-east of the castle, in a vault of rock and masonry, reached by 26 steps. The chamber has a small antechamber in front of it. The antechamber is about 1 5 paces square, with three very small apses on the east. The chamber is 10 feet square with a tunnel vault, and is two steps below the antechamber and north of it. Evidently the present site is that of a small subterranean chapel of early date. This vault is sacred to Christians and Moslems alike. A mosque with a white dome is built over it. Mass is sometimes celebrated in it. East of Bethany there are rock-cut tombs by the main road, now blocked. The ground is rocky, but carefully terraced all round the village, and cultivated with figs, olives, and other trees. There is a second small mosque, dedicated to Sheikh Ahmed, just south of the village by the main road. (See Lieutenant Kitchener's Photograph, No. 10.) 4. Beit Lahm— BETHLEHEM (M u).— A well-built stone town, standing on a narrow ridge, which runs east and west. The western part is highest, and a sort of saddle joins this swell to a second on the east. The valleys on the north and south are deep, the sides carefully terraced, vines, and olives, figs, and other trees are grown along the slopes. The soil is a very white chalk, and the houses also, when new, are very white. Towards the east is the open market-place, and beyond this the convent, in which is the fourth century Church of St. Mary, including the Grotto of the Nativity beneath the main apse. The open square, with pillar bases, is all that remains of the Atrium, which originally stood before the narthex of the basilica. Bethlehem has no natural water supply. North-west of the town are three ancient and extensive cisterns on a flat rock-terrace which are called B i r D a ti d, traditionally the well by the gate of Bethlehem (2 Samuel xxiii. 14-16). There is still water here at times. About \ mile east of the convent there is also a small spring, but the main supply is from a [SHEET XVII.] TOPOGRAPHY. 29 well-mouth over the tunnel of the Jerusalem aqueduct on the south side of the hill. There are also cisterns in the town, and a large well in the monastery. The population is about 5,000 souls, which are thus enumerated by two authorities. Prof, Socin. P£:re Lievin. Latins 2,500 Greeks 1 4.650 1,700 Armenians 700 Protestants 50 15 Moslems . 300 85 5,000 5,000 There are 15 Franciscan monks in the monastery. The Armenian and Greek monasteries are joined to the Latin, so that the three form one large building. The Franciscans hav'e a boys' school and the Sisters of St. Joseph a girls' school. There is also a German Protestant school in the town. The number of new houses and institutions is constantly increasing. The inhabitants are rich and industrious. They have numerous flocks and herds, and the wine of the extensive vineyards is considered some of the best in the country. The principal industry is the manufacture of fancy articles of mother-of-pearl, and of the black ' stink stone ' from N e b y M u s a. 5. Beit Sahur (M u). — This village is a sort of suburb of Beth- lehem, situate on the same ridge, with a broad plateau east of it known as the Shepherd's Plain, in which stands the small Greek Church of the Grotto of the Shepherds (Keniset er Rawat), a subterranean chapel reached by 20 steps, containing pictures and mosaic. Above the vault are ruins with a Latin altar. (See Section B.) Beit Sahur contains a well-built modern house belonging to the Latin cure, and is surrounded with olives and vines. 6. Beit T'amir (M u). — A small village on a hill with wells and a few olives. The name is that of an Arab tribe which was originally 30 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. settled in the place. The village contains a small mosque named after the Khalif Omar. 7. S i 1 w a n (M t). — A village perched on a precipice and badly built of stone. The water is brought from 'A i n Umm ed Deraj. There are numerous caves among and behind the houses, which are used as stables by the inhabitants. ' The constant communications which I have with the Silwan people have brought to my knowledge a curious fact. Among the inhabitants of the village there are a hundred or so, domiciled for the most part in the lower quarter, and forming a group apart from the rest, called Dhikbiyd, i.e., men of Dhiban. It appears that at some remote period a colony from the capital of King Mesha crossed the Jordan, and fixed itself at the gates of Jerusalem at Silwan. The memory of this migration is still preserved, and I am assured by the people themselves that many of their number are installed in other villages round Jerusalem.' — • C. Clermont Ganneau, 'Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 141. 8. Sur Bahir (M u). — A stone village of moderate size, on a bare hill. On the north is a well in the valley, and there are rock-cut tombs above it to the west. The name is sometimes pronounced S u r B a h i 1. 9. E t Tor (M t). — A small straggling village on the top of Olivet. The houses are built of stone, but low and mean. The church of the Ascen- sion, now a mosque, stands towards the west at the brow of the hill. In addition to the above-mentioned places various ruins have been identified as below. • Biblical Sites. Ad as a. — Thirty stadia from Beth Horon (Ant. xii. 10, 5), men- tioned in the ' Onomasticon' as near Gufna (J u f n a), appears to be the present ruin of 'Adaseh, 6.^ English miles from the Upper Beth Horon on the road to Jerusalem. A i. — East of Bethel (Joshua xii. 9), by Bethaven (Joshua vii. 2), also called Hai (Gen. xii. 8), and by Josephus Aina. It had a valley on the north and another on the west, with a plain on the east. This descrip- tion points to the neighbourhood of the modern D e i r D i w a n, and immediately south of this village is a ruin called H a i y a n. (See Section B.) The names H a 1 and H a i y e h further south resemble that {SHEET XVII.] BIBLICAL SITES. 31 of Hai, but these ruins do not so well fit the description of the peculiar position of Ai, On the site of Ai a great deal has been written. The following was written in 1869 by Captain Wilson, R.E. : 'In the spring of 1866 several days were spent by Lieutenant Anderson and myself in examining the mountain district east of Beitin (Bethel), with the view of fixing, if possible, the site of Ai, and the position of the mountain on which Abraham pitched his tent and built his second altar to Jehovah after entering the Promised Land. The examination consisted in personally visiting every hill-top and almost every acre of ground for several miles, east, north, and south of Bethel, and the result was most satisfactory, for we were able with great certainty to identify Ai with et Tell, and the mountain of the altar with a prominent hill between et Tell and Beitin. Several previous travellers appear to have identified Ai with the quasi-isolated hill of et Tell, but their descriptions of it are vague and unsatisfactory, its position is constantly changing on their maps, and it appears as Tell el Hajar, " the Heap of Stones," Tell er Rijmeh, " the Heap of Ruins," names which were probably given by the Arabs in answer to the question, " What Tell ?" when the traveller was not satisfied with the first simple answer that he received — that it was et Tell, " the Heap." After close questioning we could never obtain any other name than that of et Tell, and it was with great pleasure that, after our return to England, I learnt from the Rev. G. Williams that in the original text of Joshua viii. 28, Joshua is said to have " burnt Ai and made it a Tell for ever," and that the word " Tell " only occurs in four other passages of the Bible, among which are Deut. xiii. 16, and Joshua xi. 13. Mr. Williams's identification of Ai with etTell, which I was not aware of at the time, was described by him in a paper read before the Church Congress at Dublin in 1868. ' The topography of Ai is as minutely described as that of any other place in the Bible ; it lay to the east of Bethel, it had a valley on the north, and another on the west, in which the five thousand men were placed in ambush ; it also had a plain in front of, or on the east side of it, over which the Israelites were pursued by the men of Ai. (See Joshua vii. 2, and viii. 11 — 14.) These features are all found in connection with et Tell, and with no other place in the neighbourhood of Bethel. The ground, which at first breaks down rapidly from the great ridge that forms the backbone of Palestine, swells out into a small plain | of a mile broad before commencing its abrupt descent to the Jordan valley, and at the head or western end of this plain, on a projecting spur which has almost the appearance of an isolated hill, are the ruins known as et Tell. A short distance west of the mound, and entirely con- cealed from it by rising ground, is a small ravine well suited for an ambush, one of the branches of the main valley which runs close to et Tell and protects its northern face, the same into which the army of the Israelites descended the night before the capture of the city. On the hills to the north beyond the valley, Joshua encamped before making his final arrangements for the attack (viii. 11, 12), and it seems probable that he took his stand at some point on the same hill-side whilst the battle was raging, for there is a most com- manding view over the whole scene, not only up the lateral valley in wliich the ambush was placed, but also down the way of the wilderness. He would tlius be able at the same time to control the feigned flight of the Israelites, and signal the ambush to rise up quickly and seize the city. The site of Ai is now covered from head to foot with heaps of stones and ruins ; there are a large number of rock-hewn cisterns and the remains of ancient terraces, 32 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. some of which are cultivated by the fellahin of the neighbouring villages. On the top of the hill is a small circular space with a few olive trees, which are blown on one side by the westerly gales like the well-known "Judas tree" at Jerusalem, and form a prominent object in the landscape for miles round, as the towers of Ai may have done before Joshua made them a Tell for ever. It may be mentioned here that there is no practicable road up the beds of the Wadies from Jericho to Bethel. The present track crosses the plain mentioned above as lying below et Tell ; and the old road, the ascent by which Elisha " went up " to Bethel, must have followed the same course. Ai lying thus between the ravine on the north and the gorge on which Michmash stands (the "passage" of Isaiah x. 29) on the south, would lie directly in the way of an army advancing from the Jordan valley to the interior of Palestine.' — 'Quarterly Statement,' 1869, p. 123. Of the same site Lieutenant Conder wrote the following description : ' Near to Deir Diwan is the extremely interesting site of et Tell, which has been identified by Major Wilson with Ai. My first inquiries, put in every variety of form to various inhabi- tants on and around the spot, were directed to determining whether the name was simply et Tell, or whether some descriptive adjunct, such as Tell el Hajar, was added. The replies of more than a dozen separate witnesses fully corroborated Major Wilson's former conclusion that the name is et Tell, " the Heap," which is used in that passage of the Bible (and in only three others) where Joshua is said to have made Ai " a heap for ever." ' The present condition of the site is interesting ; conspicuous from a distance, the long mound, dipping in the same direction with the strata towards the east, stands out in contrast of grey stone from the rich brown soil of the fields. A few ancient olive trees stand on its summit, surrounded by huge mounds of broken stone and shingle 10 feet high. On the east a steep slope of 15 or 20 feet is covered with the same debris in that part where the fort of the town would seem to exist. The town must literally have been pounded small, and the fury of its destruction is still evidenced by its completeness. The interest which will, to my mind, attach to other sites, where the similar appearance of broken masonry is observable, will be very great as possible marks of Jewish invasion ; these, though not numerous, are very remarkable, and they have been noted in each case on the Survey. ' The north side of the town is protected by the deep valley (Wady el 'Asas) which runs straight down to the Jordan valley. On the west, however, there is a curious conformation. A steep knoll of rocky masses, called Burjmus, rises to a narrow summit, and is divided from et Tell by the head of a valley down which the ancient road from Bethel passes. The result is that on this side the view is entirely cut off. Another feature noticeable is that the valleys here run nearly due south for many miles, to meet Wady Suweinit. The deduction from these facts is evident. The party for the ambush, following the ancient causeway from Bethel to Jordan (which we have recovered throughout its entire length) as far as Michmash, would then easily ascend the great Wady west of Ai, and arrive within about a quarter of a mile of the city, without having ever come in sight of it. Here, hidden by the knoll of Burjmus and the high ground near it, a force of almost any magnitude might lie in wait unsuspected. The main body, in the meanwhile, without diverging from the road, would ascend up the gently sloping valley and appear before the town on the open battle-field which stretches away to its east and south. From the knoll the figure of Joshua would be plainly visible to either party, with his spear stretched against the sky. It is interesting to remark that the name Wady el Medineh, a name we have never met before, " Valley of the City," is applied to this great valley, forming the natural approach to Ai. There are no other ruins of sufficient {SHEET XV//.] B/BL/CA/ S/TES. 33 magnitude to which such a name could be applied, and the natural conclusion is that et Tell was the city so commemorated. In the Wady, about J a mile from the town, are ancient rock-cut tombs, seemingly as old as any I have yet seen, and extensive quarries. Farther up, three great rock-cut reservoirs, 36, 15, and 46 paces long respectively, and, I am informed, of great depth (they were then full of water), are grouped together. They are known as el Jahran. Numerous other cisterns exist near the ruins, and mill-stones of unusual size. ' The view from this point eastwards was extremely striking. The rocky desert of the Judsean hills, grey-furrowed ledges of hard and water-roughened limestone, with red patches of the rich but stone-cumbered soil, stretched away to the white chalky peaks of the low hills near Jericho. The plain beyond, green with grass, stretched to the brown feet of the trans-Jordanic chain. Heavy cloud-wreaths hung over these, but their slopes gleamed yellow and pink in that wonderful beauty with which they are ever clothed by the sinking sun. The calm water of the " salt sea," with a light mist brooding above, added to the charm of the view. Well might Lot, who from nearly this very spot looked down on this green valley, contrast it favourably with the steep passes and stormy hills which he relinquished to Abraham. Half the breadth of sea and plain was visible ; the western half is hidden by the hills. The cities of the plain, placed, as we conclude, at a distance from the "mountain" to which Lot could not fly, and in the vale of Siddim, "which is the salt sea" (Genesis xiv. 3), were therefore in all probability visible in gleaming contrast with their green palm groves, now, alas! extinct, but still standing in the times of Arculphus (a.d. 700), thus resembling Damascus in its oasis of trees.' — 'Quarterly Statement,' 1874, pp. 62 — 64. In 1877 Lieutenant Kitchener suggested a newly-found site, the Khurbet Haiy, for Ai. On this subject the following communication was received from the Rev. W. F. Birch : ' Lieutenant Kitchener's suggested identification of Aiwith Khiirbet Haiy, i mile east of Mukhmas, has much to recommend it. ' I. Ai was on the cast of Bethel (Joshua vii. 2) and of Abraham's tent (Genesis xii. 8). As the Orientals call every wind ZivTeast wind which blows from any point between east and north and east and south (Jahn, "Antiq.," p. 17), this extensive meaning of east favours equally any position for Ai in any degree east of Bethel. ' 2. " The Israelites pitched on the north side of Ai ; now there was a valley (Hebr. gai) between them and Ai. . . . (13) Joshua went that night into the midst of the valley (Hebr. mfX') " (Joshua viii. 11-13). 'AVith Ai placed at et Tell or Khurbet Haiyan, Lieutenant Kitchener well observes on the peculiarity of a force after approaching the city from the east crossing an almost impracti- cable valley, to be recrossed the next day. The valley north of et Tell might suitaljly be described as the gai, but we have also to find another wider valley answering to cmek ; for the two different words cannot here well mean exactly the same valley. The "plain to the north of Khurbet Haiy " would, however, just suit the expression emek ; and possibly the gai may be a ravine interposed between the liers-in-wait and Ai, unless the gai was the bed of a water-course in the emek (see i Samuel xvii. 2, 3, 40). ' 3. As all the men of Bethel assisted Ai, it is strange that the former city was not taken at the same time, for the Israelites would be close to it, if Ai = et Tell or Khiirbet Haiyan. That the two cities were not taken together seems clear from Joshua xii. 9, 16. '4. But putting Ai at Khurbet Haiy, where it commanded the road into the interior, its capture becomes essential to further progress. VOL, III. c 34 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. '5. From the order of the names, Michmash, Ai, Bethel, in Neh. xi. 31, it is natural to look for Ai between the other two, but in Neh. vii. 31, 32 they are classed differently. "The men of Michmash, 122. The men of Bethel and Ai, 123." Clearly there is no geo- graphical order here. Probably, however, the places are grouped in Neh. vii. according to other considerations. In verse 29 the three Gibeonite cities, Kirjathjearim, Chephirah, and Beeroth are joined together; Gibeon (25th verse) being, as it seems likely, not the town of that name in Benjamin, but some Gibeah in Judea. So likewise the political connection first seen existing between Bethel and Ai (in Joshua viii.) may have led to these two places being always named together (Joshua xviii. 22, 23 ; and Neh. vii., xii. above). In Esdras v. 21, the two places are curiously welded into one — viz., B>jroX/w, though Michmash was afterwards built between them, a possible origin of the apocryphal (BsruXoiva) Bethulia. ' 6. If Sennacherib invaded Judasa from the east, as did Joshua, then he would naturally come to Ai (Khurbet Haiy), and we escape the difficulty of having to account for his diverging from the central north road, so as to get to et Tell or Khiirbet Haiyan. • * 7. The theory that all the places in Isaiah x. 28 — 32 (except Jerusalem) are visible from Jeb'a is unaffected by Khurbet Haiy being Ai. I may rather say it receives a finishing touch from the identification. Lieutenant Kitchener ascertained, on the revision of the Survey, that not only et Tell was visible from Jeb'a, but also Khurbet Haiy. Taking Migron {i.e., the precipice) in Isaiah x. 28 to be the hill forming the north cliff of the passage to Michmash, the proper order of the names with Ai at et Tell or Khurbet Haiyan ought to be Aiath, Michmash, Migron ; but with Ai at Khurbet Haiy the order as seen by a spectator from Jeb'a would be exactly as in Isaiah : Aiath, Migron, Michmash. Supposing Jeb'a to be the centre or axle of a wheel, and straight lines drawn from it to the various places named (Isaiah X. 28 — 31) to be the different spokes, all the places will be found to be named exactly in geographical order, without one exception. This is the perfect result given by the new map. I may add, on the same authority, that Anathoth is visible from Jeb'a, and so also must be Laish, since the relative heights are Jeb'a, 2,220 feet ; Anathoth, 2,225 feet; and a mile farther south, Laish, 2,390 feet. As to the other places I have no further information. ' It seems to me highly desirable for Khurbet Haiy to be visible from the site of Abraham's encampment on the east of Bethel, and I should think it certainly is.'— ' Quarterly Statement,' 1878, p. 132. And Rummon has been suggested by the Rev. T. H. Guest. He thus sums up the chief points in favour of his suggestion : ' I. It is due east from Beitin, and thus corresponds exactly to the description in Genesis xii. 8, Joshua vii. 2, as well as Joshua viii. 9, to be referred to by-and-by. * 2. In Joshua xii. 9, Ai is described as beside Bethel. " The idea is that of near distance, of being just off from, the prope abesse ab . . . aliqua re." (Gesenius,Gram. p. 220.) ' 3. In Joshua vii. 2 it is beside Bethaven. This indication is of little value until we know where Bethaven was. But, taking it as identified with Deir Diwan, the description is suffi- ciently near. But the passage should probably be rendered thus : " And Joshua sent men from Jericho to Ai, which, together with Bethaven, is on the east side of Bethel." The Vatican Septuagint omits the clause, " beside Bethaven," altogether. ' 4. The identification of Ai with Rummon renders the narrative of the capture of the place very clear and intelligible. The Israelites are encamped in the " plain " of the Jordan, the ''^'^^^.^ of viii. 14, and close by Jericho, vii. 2. [SHEET XVII.] BIBLICAL SITES. 35 ' An army about to attack Rummon would probably make its way along the road which runs from Ain Duk to et Taiyibeh, and so make its appearance on the north of the threatened place. Now we find (viii. ii) that Joshua did lead his main army to a camp on "the north side of Ai, with a valley between them and Ai. The Septuagint reads, " and as they were going they came opposite the city on the east," a clause which is strikingly in harmony with the supposed route. The ravine may be identified with the upper part of Wady Rubeiyeh, the encampment being about south south-east of et Taiyibeh. ' During the night Joshua had prepared his ambush, which (v. 9) " abode between Bethel and Ai, on the west side of Ai." Exactly so situated we find a Wady above the AVady es Sik, and in continuation of it, under the names of Wady el Muteh and AVady el 'Ain. Here they were bidden, while scattering themselves as far as necessary for concealment, not to go far from the city (v. 4). ' For this ambush must do the work of destruction. The main army came forth only to show themselves, and then by a feigned retreat to challenge the people of Ai to a second pursuit. ' As soon, then, as the latter perceived that the Israelites were gone by the way they came, into the midst of the valley (Heb. pw, v. 13), the wide lower land over which they had passed, they started in pursuit. There was a feint of battle "before the plain" (Heb, "^nvn -:sb)j in immediate sight of the open expanse of the low lands by the Jordan. The Israelites made as if they were again beaten, and fled by the way of the " wilderness." The sequel is well known, and further details have little to bear upon our present question. Ai was made " an heap (Heb. ^v) for ever, even a desolation unto this day." And if Rummon be the spot, its very name is gone.' — ' Quarterly Statement,' 1878, p. 195. Alemeth (i Chron. vi. 60) or Almon (Joshua xxi. 18). — A city of Benjamin, is the present ruin of 'A 1 m i t. The Targum of Jonathan identifies the place with Bahurim. The position seems suitable, being near an old road to Jericho. Ataroth Addar (Joshua xviii. 1 3), near the hill on the south side of the nether Beth Horon. This is the position of the present ruin, Khfirbet Darich. The place may also perhaps be the Addara of the ' Onomasticon,' east of Lydda. Beth P e o r (Septuagint, Joshua xv. 59, inserted verse), is the present ruin, Khi^irbet Faghiir. Beth Shemesh (Joshua xv. io),near Timnah (Tibneh, SheetXVI). In the lower hills is the present ruin of 'A i n She m s. Beth Zach arias (i Mace. vi. 32). — Seventy stadia from Bethzur (Ant. xii. 9, 4), on the way to Jerusalem, is the present ruin of Beit S k a r i a, the position of which agrees well with Josephus's account. The place is mentioned also by Willibald (724 a.d.), who distinguishes it from the home of the father of John Baptist (at 'Ain K a r i m), and places it 5—2 36 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. between St. Matthew (Beit Urn mar, Sheet XXI.) and Jerusalem. (See Section B.) B e z e k (Judges i. 5), may perhaps be the present ruin of B e z k a h. Charashim (Valley) (Neh. xi. 35), was apparently near Lydda. The name Khiirbet Hirsha applied to a ruin east of Y a 1 o may perhaps retain a trace of the title. C h e p h i r a h, a town of Benjamin (Joshua xviii. 26), is the present ruin of K e f i r e h. A c h z i b (or C h e z i b). — A town of Judah in the Shephelah (Joshua XV. 44), is probably the Chazbi of the ' Onomasticon ': 'a deserted place near Adullam, in the district of Eleutheropolis.' At Beit Nettif, about 2\ miles from Adullam, is a spring called 'A i n K e z b e h, which may probably retain the name of Chazbi, and is in a probable position for Chezib. E leas a (i Mace. ix. 5), or according to another reading Adasa. A ruin called Khurbet Ildsa exists near Beit ur, Emmaus (Luke xxiv. 13, 'Wars' vii, 7, 6). — This place was apparently 60 stadia from Jerusalem, or 7^ Roman miles. In the ' Onomasticon ' it is identified with Emmaus Nicopolis ('A m w a s), but the latter is 160 stadia from Jerusalem (which agrees with the reading of the Sinaitic MS.). A possible site is Khurbet el Khamasa, 8 English miles from Jerusalem. Emmaus is apparently a later corruption of the ancient Hebrew form Hammath, derived from the existence of a thermal spring. Thus Hammath of Naphtali was called later Emmaus, and the connection between the two names is noticed by Josephus. ' Now Emmaus, if it be interpreted, may be rendered "a warm bath," useful for healing' (B. J. iv. I, 3, and Ant. xviii. 2, 3). And again, Emmaus Nicopolis, the modern 'Amwas, was celebrated for its healing spring in early Christian times, and the memory of this is probably preserved in the name B i r e t T a a (I n, or ' Well of the Plague,' still applying to a well in the village. Thus in modern Arabic the name Hammath, or Ammaus, might occur under various forms, according as it preserved the original Hebrew {SHEET XVIL] BIBLICAL SITES. 37 guttural represented by the Arabic He or K h e, or transformed it to the 'A i n, and according as it preserved the Hebrew terminal or reproduced the later final letter. The forms thus obtained would be H a m m a t a, or even H a m m a m (' a hot bath' in Arabic), K h a m a t a, Hamasa, Khamasa^ 'A mat a, or 'Am was, of which it will be seen the form K h a m a s a is not the most corrupt, as compared with the orig'inal. So much, then, as regards the name ; it remains to inquire whether other requisites are also fulfilled. The only indications of position furnished us are as regards distance from Jerusalem. Thus we read (Luke xxiv. 13), 'And, behold, two of them went that same day to a village called Emmaus, which was from Jerusalem about threescore furlongs.' The more general account in St. Mark's gospel giving only, ' as they walked and went into the country' (Mark xvi. 12). Josephus appears clearly to intend the same place in his account of the sale of Judaea (B. J. vii. 6, 6) by the orders of Vespasian, ' However, he assigned a place for 800 men only, whom he dismissed from his army, which he gave them for their habitation ; it is called Emmaus, and is distant from Jerusalem threescore furlongs.' The distance of the ruin of Khamasa from Jerusalem is about 8 miles, which is sufficiently close to the 7^ miles which are represented by the 60 stadia to satisfy the expression 'about threescore furlongs.' It is close beside one of the ancient Roman roads leading from the capital to the plain near Beit Jibrin. There is, further, no doubt that the site is ancient. The ruin exists close to the modern village of W a d y F u k i n, and on the ledges imme- diately west of the houses there are still to be found the remains of Jewish rock-cut sepulchres, whilst on the east, beside the spring, is the ruin of a litde church called K h u r b e t 'A i n el K e n i s e h, * ruin of the fountain of the church.' The meaning of the name seems to be lost, and, as far as I am able to discover, the word has no known signification. It was, indeed, in endeavouring to discover whether the name had a Hebrew origin that I found the connection which probably existed with the forms Emmaus and Hammath, and thus was naturally led to inquire whether the distance eigreed with that of the New Testament Emmaus. 38 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. The notes taken on the spot descriptive of the site were made in ignorance of its identity, and are similar to those which are collected of every ruined site irrespective of its historical importance. The extreme prominence of the situation of the Maccabean town Emmaus Nicopolis caused it immediately to be assumed, in the fourth century, as identical with the New Testament site, without reference to its distance from Jerusalem, which is about 20 miles, or 160 stadia. Some of the later MSS. of the New Testament do indeed read 160 instead of 60 furlongs, and on the strength of these readings Dr. Robinson has endeavoured to support the early Christian view ; but the best authorities, excepting the Sinaitic MSS., read 60, and Mr. Grove has clearly pointed out that the narrative of the events renders it highly improbable that the longer distance should be correct, as the disciples, leaving Emmaus after sunset, arrived in Jerusalem to find the eleven still gathered together. The time required for a distance of 8 miles would be about three hours, but the distance from Jerusalem to Emmaus Nicopolis and back would be considerably over the ordinary day's journey of a modern native of Palestine, requiring at least sixteen hours. In the fourteenth century the site of Emmaus was changed, and fixed at the village of K u b e i b e h, 7 miles from Jerusalem towards the north-west. The origin of this late tradition is unknown, but a fine church of twelfth or thirteenth century architecture has lately been uncovered in the grounds, where a new monastery and hospice for travellers are being erected. It remains to give some description of the site now proposed as representing the Scriptural Emmaus, which is so hidden away in a corner that nothing short of systematic survey would have ensured its recovery. Descending towards the great plain by the fine Roman road which passes by Solomon's Pool and runs along a narrow ridge south of Beit 'Atab, before arriving at the ruined village of Hubin, the traveller obtains a peep at a narrow valley well watered and filled with shady gardens of orange and lemon. On the west slope stands the village of Wad F ti k i n, and the hill rises behind it bare and rocky, pierced by ancient sepulchres now used as storehouses. A low spur extends between this valley and a small tributary on the east ; upon this slope lie the ruins of [SHEET XVIL] BIBLICAL SITES. 39 Khamasa. In the tributary valley is a low precipice of rock, and under this a spring of clear water and a little pool. Just below the spring are the remains of a little church standing close to the rocky ledge. This is called Khiirbet 'A in el Keniseh, ' ruin of the fountain of the church.' A little lower down the valley are other ruins called K h u r b e t K u d e i s, probably meaning ' ruin of the sacred place,' or ' sanctuary ' (in the diminutive form). The church or chapel measures 33 feet in length by 18 feet in breadth (interior), having an apse at the east end 12 feet diameter. It is not well oriented, bearing 66° mag. in the diameter of its length. The walls are standing to the height of some 6 or 8 feet, but no arches remain. The masonry throughout is very rough, and somewhat resembles that of another small church a few miles farther north, at a place called e 1 K a b u, where the arches are pointed. The ashlar is only rudely squared, and averages about to 2 feet in length of the stones. Upon one stone a rude boss was observed. There were no masons' marks visible, and indeed in this style they do not appear ever to occur. The interior of the apse, which was domed, was covered with a hard cement. These indications seem to point to the chapel having been built in the twelfth or thirteenth century, as it resembles in general character the church of St. Jeremiah at Abu Ghosh. Two rude caves exist some 50 yards west of the chapel, in the side of the precipice. The ruins of Khamasa consist of scattered stones and of the remains of a rectangular building measuring 24 feet by 34 feet. The masonry in this is similar to that of the church. The existence of these mediaeval ruins is interestincr. The site evidently has been regarded as sacred in Christian times, but, as far as our present information goes, it cannot have been ever the traditional Emmaus, for down to the fourteenth century all geographers placed the Scriptural site at 'Am was (Emmaus Nicopolis), and since that period tradition has pointed to Kubeibeh, 7 miles from Jerusalem, where the remains of a splendid Crusading church still exist. It is possible that some tradition might be obtained on the spot, but of this we heard nothing at the time, and as the identification did not then present itself to my mind, I contented myself with sketching and planning the ruins. The proximity to the main Roman road, and the choice character of 40 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. the immediately surrounding territory, render this a very probable site for the home of the disbanded Roman soldiery. The name and distance agree, as shown, with the requirements of the case, and as no other site has been found by us bearing any title approaching to that of Emmaus, the identification is evidently the most satisfactory yet proposed for this interesting place, Kulonieh was proposed by Canon Williams for the site of Emmaus. Another suggestion has been made by the Rev. W. F. Birth. He says : ' Now among the sites of Benjamin, Joshua (xviii. 26) speaks of Musah, as we read it, but in Hebrew nyjn Hammosah, ' The Mosah.' Fiirst gives Musah the meaning ' place of reeds,' but it seems more probable that it is equivalent to xvia^ a spring. Be this as it may, the Talmud says that this Musah, or Mauza, is the place whence willows were brought to adorn the Altar at the Feast of Tabernacles, and this suggests a valley ; and elsewhere again the Talmud says that it was made a colony. (See Caspari § 242.) ' But Josephus tells us in the well-known passage, that his Amraaus was colonized by the assignment of the place by Titus to 800 discharged veterans. 'We have thus side by side these statements from totally dififerent sources : first, that a place called by Joshua Hammusah became a Roman colony ; secondly, that Ammaus became a Roman colony. Hammusah is therefore in all probability identical with Ammaus. ' We now turn to the map. We find a well-known })lace on the main road from Jerusalem to the west, called Kulonieh, manifestly from Colonia, and about i mile to the north of thisi looking down on a valley which trends at that point south and west toward Kulonieh, a ruin called Beit Mizza. ' Here we have another linking of these two, Hammusah, the fountain, and a Roman colony, and we must be near the place we are looking for. ' But now let us pass up from Kulonieh along the valley, under Beit Mizza, and pursue our way along the whole length of the valley (Wady Biiwai) up to its head. We are then some 3 miles from Kulonieh, and about i mile further, on the hill, in Kubeibeh, which it is said the Crusaders were informed was the site of Emmaus. ' Now the head of this valley is as near as may be 60 stadia from Jerusalem. And it would seem probable that the original Emmaus, or the principal part of its population, originally laid around the head of the valley, giving its name, however, more or less exactly, to the whole : that this valley, and especially its upper part, was originally the Colonia of the discharged soldiers of Titus, but that as time went on the chief part of the population gravitated down to the Roman road, not at the nearest point to Jerusalem, but at the junction of the valley with that road. ' Travellers from Jerusalem to the upper valley of Emmaus would not pass through Kulonieh, but would leave the main road about 2 miles from that place, and descend into the Wady Buwai just where the roads from Kulonieh on the left, and from Lifta on the right, converge upon it. At such a point as this we may well imagine that the two disciples encountered their veiled and risen Lord, and as they went along that upland path towards what was then the chief part at least of Emmaus, the fountains of a new life were opened out to them. ' Joshua and the Talmud, -St. Luke and Josephus, the traditions heard by the Crusaders, {SHEET XVIL] BIBLICAL SITES. 41 and the stern requirements of a modern survey, fixing distances beyond possibility of mistake, seem all harmonized by the identification thus proposed.' Robinson thus presents the question of Enimaus : ' For thirteen centuries did the interpretation current in the whole Church regard the Emmaus of the New Testament as identical with Nicopolis. This was not the voice of mere tradition, but the well-considered judgment of men of learning and critical skill, resident in the country, acquainted with the places in question, and occupied in investigating and describing the Scriptural topography of the Holy Land. The objections which lie against this view have been well presented by Reland and others, and are the four following : ' I St. The express statement of Luke, that Emmaus was distant from Jerusalem 60 stadia. Such is indeed the present reading, as found in all the editions and in most of the manuscripts of the New Testament that have come down to us. But it is no less true, that several manuscripts, and some of them of high authority, read here one hundred and sixty, and thus point to Nicopolis. This may then have been the current reading in the days of Eusebius and Jerome. There seems, indeed, to be a strong probability that it actually was so ; since otherwise those fathers, in searching for the Emmaus of Luke, had only to seek at the distance of 60 stadia from Jerusalem in order to find it. We therefore may draw at least this definite conclusion, viz., that in their day such an Emmaus was unknown, and, also, that probably their copies read 160 stadia. It may have been that the word or numeral letter signifying a hundred had early begun to be dropped from the text by a lapse of transcribers, and that this was increased as copies were multiplied in other lands, by copyists who knew nothing of Palestine ; until at length by degrees the omission became current in the manuscripts. Indeed, few, if any, of the manuscripts now extant were written in Palestine. There exist likewise in the New Testament other examples of erroneous readings, which have doubtless, in like manner, crept in through the error of transcribers. ' 2nd. Josephus relates that Vespasian (or Titus) assigned in Palestine a place of habita- tion for 800 men, whom he had dismissed from his army ; it was called Emmaus, and was distant from Jerusalem 60 stadia. This, it is said, confirms the present reading of the New Testament. But since, as is well known, the works of Josephus were copied in a later age almost exclusively by Christian transcribers, this passage would very naturally be conformed to the current reading in Luke ; while it is also true that several manuscripts of Josephus still read here ihiriy stadia. This at least shows the reading to be variable, and therefore doubtful; so that it can have no weight in determining the text of the New Testament. Indeed, llie original of it may just as well have been 160. ' 3rd. The Emmaus of Luke and Josephus, it is said, is called a village ; while Nicopolis was a city. But the word employed by Luke signifies strictly a town without walls, a country- town, as distinguished from a fortified city ; and that used by Josephus denotes a place, and is also put for a fortified post or town. Emmaus had been laid in ashes by Varus shortly after the death of Herod, and would seem not to have been fully rebuilt until the third century, when it received the name of Nicopolis. When Luke wrote, therefore, it was probably still a place partially in ruins and without walls ; a fitting post for a colony of disbanded soldiers. ' 4th. The distance of Nicopolis from Jerusalem is too great, it is said, to admit of the return of the two disciples the same evening, so as to meet the assembled Apostles. This, however, would depend, not so much upon the distance, as upon the time when they set off. They "rose up the same hour," and naturally returned in haste to make known their glad tidings; VOL. III. 6 42 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. although, with all their haste, they could not well have traversed the distance in less than five hours. It was not yet evening when they arrived at Emmaus ; and if they set off to return even as late as six o'clock, which at that season would be about sunset, they might reach the city by eleven o'clock. The Apostles were assembled and the doors were shut " for fear of the Jews they had indeed partaken of an evening meal, but this had already been long ended ; for Jesus afterwards inquires if they have there any food. It was evidently late. There is therefore nothing impossible or improbable in the supposition that the two had hastened back a long distance, late at night, perhaps with much bodily effort, to declare to their brethren the wonderful things of which they had been witnesses. A like amount of travel, on an extraordinary occasion, would be nothing strange even at the present day. ' The case, then, may be thus presented. On the one hand, the reading of good manu- scripts gives the distance of Emmaus from Jerusalem at 1 60 stadia; at which point there was a place called Emmaus, which still exists as the village 'Amwas ; and all this is further supported by the critical judgment of learned men residing in the country near the time; as also by the unbroken tradition of the first thirteen centuries. On the other hand, there is the current reading of 60 stadia in most of the present manuscripts, written out of Palestine ; supported only by a doubtful reading of Josephus ; but with no place existing, either now or at the end of the third century, to which this specification can be referred. So far as it regards the New Testament, it is a question between two various readings ; one, now the current one in manuscripts and editions, but with no other valid support ; the other sup- ported in like manner by manuscripts, as also by facts, by the judgment of early scholars, and by early and unbroken tradition. After long and repeated consideration, I am disposed to acquiesce in the judgment of Eusebius and Jerome.' En G a n n i m (Joshua xv. 34). — A town of Judah in the Shephelah, near Zanoah and Tappuah. This appears to be the present ruin of U m m J i n a, 3 miles north-west of Z a n u a. En S h e m e s h (Joshua xv. 7). — A spring near the Mount of OHves, and En Rogel ('A in Umm ed Deraj). This appears to be the present 'A in Haud. About \\ miles north-east is a cliff called 'A r a k e s h S h e m s, which may preserve the name. 'Now remain en Shemesh and en Rogel. Of the former name no trace remains, unless it be in Mugharet esh Shems ("Cave of the Sun") ; but this lies north of Wady Kelt, and on the other side of the watershed. I should not have mentioned it, but for a rather curious expression used by an Arab with regard to it. I asked him, while talking of the cave, whether there was no 'Ain esh Shems ("Spring of the Sun"), to which he replied, " This is 'Ain esh Shems ;" and on my making him explain himself, he said they sometimes called the cave the "Eye of the Sun" (^ain being a spring or an eye), because the rising sun shone directly into it — that it looked directly in the eye of the sun. En Shemesh is, however, more probably 'Ain Haud, east of el Azariyeh, beside the high road, or else the neighboufing well of Bir el 'Add, which contains a never-failing spring. The much-disputed en Rogel I am in favour of putting at the so-called Virgin's Fount, and if this be the case, the boundary-line from the edge of the Ghor would just correspond with the present high road from Jerusalem to Eriha.' — C. F. Tyrwhitt Drake, 'Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 70. {SHEET XVII] BIBIICAI SITES. 43 E tarn. — The town of Judah, so named, mentioned as near Bethlehem (Septuagint, Joshua xv. 59, inserted verse), and the site of Solomon's Gardens (Ant. viii. 7, 3), was 50 stadia from Jerusalem, and was fortified by Rehoboam (2 Chron. xi. 6). The aqueduct to the Temple came from it, and it was thought to be the highest place in Palestine (Tal. Bab. Zebachim, 54 b). These indications point to the neighbourhood of U r t as, where the name is retained in that of 'A i n 'A t a n. Accord- ing to the Talmud (Tal. Bab. Yoma, 31 a), this place is the Biblical Nephtoah (Joshua xv. 9), which would reconcile the boundary of Benjamin with the account in i Sam. x. 2. Ge derail is the Shephelah (Joshua xv. 36), mentioned with Socoh. It is probably the Gedrus of the ' Onomasticon ' (s.v. Gahedur), 10 miles from Diospolis ( L u d d) on the road to Eleutheropolis (Beit Jibrin). This agrees with the position of the ruin of Jed ire h, 9 English miles south of L u d d. Gibe ah, a town of Benjamin, distinct from the more famous place of the name, mentioned with Kirjath (probably Kiiryet el 'Enab) (Joshua xviii. 28), is probably the ruin of J i b i a or J u b e i a h, 3 miles north of K u ry e t el 'Enab. H azor, a town of Benjamin (Neh. xi. 33), apparently north of Jeru- salem, is probably the present ruined site of Hazzur, in the direction indicated by the other names noticed in the same passage. Jethlah, a town of Dan (Joshua xix. 42), mentioned with Aijalon (Y a 1 o), is probably the present ruin of Beit T u 1, 3 miles south-cast of the latter town, Kirjath J e a r i m. — The site which appears to me best to suit this important town is Khiirbet 'Erma. Kirjath Jearim is first mentioned in the Book of Joshua as identical with Kirjath Baal, a town of Judah (Joshua xv. 60). It was on the boun- dary between the tribes of Judah and Benjamin (verse 9), and from the peculiar expressions used in the descriptions of the border line (Joshua xviii. 15, XV. 10), it appears that the town must have stood at an angle, from which the line ran in two directions, one being eastwards towards Nephtoah, the other northwards towards Kesla, which is Chesalon, on the north side. 6—2 44 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. The next appearance of the city is in the Book of Judges, when the men of Dan, who had no inheritance (Judges xviii. i), went up to the Mahaneh Dan, which was ' behind ' (or more correctly, zuest of) Kirjath Jearim. Of the position of this Mahaneh Dan, or ' Camp of Dan,' we have a further indication in the history of Samson, in which it is mentioned as 'between Zorah (Surah) and Eshtaol ' (Eshua) (Judges xiii. 25). The term Mahaneh is identical with Mukhnah, ' camp/ a title now applied to the plain east of Shechem, and it seems to be properly indi- cative of a plain fit for camping ground. We can therefore have little hesitation in placing the Mahaneh Dan in the broad Wady Surar, near the recognised sites of Zorah and Eshtaol ; and the site of Kirjath Jearim should thus apparently be sought east of this natural camping ground. Kirjath Jearim is again mentioned as the place where the Ark remained for twenty years after the destruction of the men of Beth Shemesh (i Samuel vi, 19, vii. i). From this passage it appears that Kirjath Jearim was in the mountains above Beth Shemesh ; yet Josephus, who may be supposed to have known the real site, states that the two cities were near one another (Ant. vi. i, 4). At a late period David went down to Baalah (or Kirjath Jearim) to bring up the Ark to Jerusalem. It was found in the house of Abinadab ' in Gibeah ' (the hill or knoll), but this place would appear to have been in or part of the city of Baalah. This is the last mention of the city except its enumeration in the lists of Ezra, where the name appears under the abbreviated form, Kirjath Arim (Ezra ii. 25). From these various notices we may sum up the apparent requisites which should be satisfied in any site proposed as identical with this important town, 1. The name Arim or Jearim ('thickets') should be recovered, and the site should present such thickets. 2. It must be east of the Mahaneh Dan, which lay between Zorah and Eshtaol. 3. It must be south of Chesalon, identified with the modern Kesla. 4. It must be near Beth Shemesh (now 'Ain Shems), which agrees with the second indication. 5. It must be in the mountains above the last-mentioned site. 6. It must be at the south-west angle of the border line of Benjamin. [SJIEET XVII.] BIBLICAL SITES. 45 7. Its position must agree with that of Nephtoah and Rachel's tomb (cf. Joshua XV. 9, and i Samuel x. 2), so as to allow of an intelligible line being drawn for the south border of Benjamin. 8. The name Baalah indicates either that a high place of Baal existed at the city, or else that the position was elevated (taking Baal in a wider geographical sense, as some authorities are inclined to do). 9. A rounded hillock or humped knoll of some kind seems indicated by the term Gibeah occurring in connection with the site of the city. The usual site shown as representing Kirjath Jearim is the village of Kiiryet el 'Enab ('Town of Grapes '), better known as Abu Ghosh, on the road from Jaffa to Jerusalem. This town is called simply el Kiiryeh by the fellahin, and appears to be the ancient Kirjath of Benjamin (Joshua xviii. 28), a place apparently distinct from Kirjath Jearim, and situated in the Lot of Benjamin, whereas the latter belonged to Judah. There is no doubt that in the fifth century Abu Ghosh was believed to be Kirjath Jearim, and the only argument which Dr. Robinson has adduced in favour of this identification appears to be founded on the early Christian tradition, which he too often quotes in favour of his own views, even against his own canon of criticism condemning such traditions as of no value. The site thus commonly pointed out to travellers does not, however, fulfil the requisites enumerated. The name of Arim is not found at Abu Ghosh, the site of which lies 9 miles north-west of 'Ain Shems, and 3^ miles north-west of Chesalon. The border line of Benjamin cannot be drawn through Abu Ghosh and also through Rachel's tomb, without being so twisted as to be practically improbable, while no special features occur which would serve to explain the names Gibeah and Baalah, connected with that of Kirjath Jearim. These objections have been so far recognised by various writers as to induce some archaeologists to prefer the conspicuous village of Soba, as proposed by Dr. Chaplin, a site answering better to the requirements of the name Baalah or Gibeah. Soba is the Bel-Mont of the Crusaders, and is undoubtedly an ancient Jewish site. In the Septuagint of Joshua xv. (verse inserted after 60) it seems to be mentioned, according to some MSS., under the form Thobes. It lies, however, 4 miles east of Chesalon, and is separated by 10 miles of rugged mountains from Beth Shemesh. No trace of the name Kirjath Jearim has been found in its vicinity, and 46 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN TALESTINE. the difficulties with regard to the boundary of Judah and Benjamin are not removed by the choice of this site. The ruin discovered by the Survey party in 1873 seems in every respect to answer better than any previously proposed to the nine require- ments enumerated above. 1. The three principal letters (oiy) of the name Jearim, or of the later abbreviated form Arim, occur in the proper order in the modern Arabic 'Erma (spelt with the guttural Ain) ; the site is moreover surrounded and concealed by the thickets of lentisk, oak, hawthorn, and other shrubs, which properly represent the Hebrew word 'garim ' (o^r) from a root signifying to be ' tangled ' or confused. 2. The ruin is due east of the open plain formed by the junction 01 Wady Ismain with Wady el Mutluk, extending from Beth Shemesh on the south-west to Eshtaol on the north-east, and to the hill of Zorah on the north-west, representing the ancient Mahaneh Dan. 3. It is 2:1^ miles south of Chesalon or Kesla. 4. It is only 4 miles from Beth Shemesh, and an ancient road descends north of the ruin into Wady Ismain, and thus leads to Beth Shemesh direct along the valley banks. 5. The site of 'Erma is nevertheless in the mountain proper, and about 1,000 feet higher than that of Beth Shemesh. 6. The identification of the sites of Ataroth Adar (ed Darieh), Gibeah (Jibia), and Kirjath (Kuryet el 'Enab), belonging to Benjamin ; of Jethlah (Beit Tul) and Eltekeh (Beit Likia) belonging to Dan, as proposed by the Survey party, all agree with the supposition that the west border of Ben- jamin ran south, from near the Nether Beth-horon, along the crests of the spurs which sink so suddenly from the level of the mountain proper (Har) to the distinct region of the Shephelah. This natural boundary, excluding on the west the Vale of Ajalon, which belonged to Dan, cannot be recon- ciled with the proposed identifications of Kirjath Jearim at Abu Ghosh or at Soba, but agrees perfectly with the wording of the Biblical description : ' The border was drawn hence, and compassed the western side southwards, and the goings out thereof were at Kirjath Baal, which is Kirjath Jearim, a city of the children of Judah. This was the west quarter. And the south quarter was from the end of Kirjath Jearim {i.e., the end of the spur on which the city stood), and the border went out on {SHEET XVn.] BIBLICAL SITES. 47 the west {i.e., west side), and went out (eastwards) to the Springs of Nephtoah ' (Joshua xviii. 14, 15), Again, it agrees also with the other description : ' And the border compassed from Baalah on the west (or looking west) unto Mount Seir, and passed along unto the shoulder of Mount Jearim, which is Chesalon, on the north side, and went down unto Beth Shemesh ' (Joshua xv, 10). If this argument has been followed by help of the map it will be seen what line is indicated. 'Erma is on the south or Judah side of the great valley, with a spur (perhaps ' the end of Kirjath Jearim ') running out northwards. Here, on the north side, are the precipices of a remarkal^ly rocky hill burrowed with hermits' caves, to which the word Seir (' rough ') might very well apply. On the same northern ridge, moreover, the name S agh i r, which is radically the same as Seir, may be found marked rather further east. The line running due north along Mount Jearim (which appears from the text to have been on the opposite side of the valley to Kirjath Jearim, as the expression mr, rendered ' passed along,' means strictly ' crossed over,' a river or valley) arrives at Kesla or Chesalon, and thence follows the important valley called Wady Ghurab, which joins Wady Ismain and flows past Beth Shemesh. The position of 'Erma is thus naturally placed at the south-west angle of the border of Benjamin. 7. The common boundary of Judah and Benjamin may be drawn from the new site of Kirjath Jearim in a direction which agrees with various other indications. It would follow the crest of a long spur to the water- shed at 'Ain 'Atan (near Solomon's pools), the en Etam which, according to the Talmudists, was the same as Nephtoah (Tal. Bab. Yoma, 31, a). Thence it would pass along a watershed northwards by Rachel's tomb (i Samuel x. 2) to the Emek Rephaim, which, according to Josephus, extended from Jerusalem towards Bethlehem (7 Ant. xii. 4). Lifta is thus left to be identified with Eleph of Benjamin (Joshua xviii. 28) rather than with Nephtoah. The identification of Lifta and Nephtoah has always seemed unsatisfactory, not only on account of the difficulties which result in drawing the boundary line, but also because no great spring or group of springs such as seems to be implied by the expression ]'yo, M ' a i n, occurs at this spot. The modern Arabic name is, moreover, deficient in the guttural of the Hebrew. 48 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. 8. The expression Baalah would refer very properly to the situation of 'Erma, overlooking the great valley, while, as will be explained imme- diately, the traces of what may have been an ancient ' high place ' (Bamah) still remain. 9. A central knoll, such as would account for the name Gibeah, occurs at the ruin of 'Erma. Although the indications of identity thus appear very strong, they could not be considered as conclusive if the site proved to be insignificant, with modern ruins in an inconspicuous situation. I was therefore anxious to revisit the spot, and was much pleased to find that an evidently ancient and important ruin exists still in this position. Riding down the great gorge which, under various names, runs down from near Gibeon to Beth Shemesh, we gradually ascended the southern slopes in the vicinity of the little ruined village of Deir esh Sheikh. Before us was the notable peaked knoll of Khiirbet Sammunieh, a conspicuous feature of the view up the valley from Stirah, and leaving this on the right we followed an ancient road along the slope of the mountain. Here and there remains ot side walls are visible, and there can be little doubt that this is a branch of the Roman road from the vicinity of Bethlehem leading to Beth Shemesh. In front of us, far beneath, we saw the white bed of the torrent twisting in bold bends between the steep slopes, which rise fully 1,000 feet to the hill-tops. Both slopes were rocky and rugged, both, but especially that to the south, were clothed with a dense brushwood of lentisk, arbutus, oak, hawthorn, cornel, kharub, and other shrubs, while in the open glades the thyme, sage, citizus and bellda carpeted the ledges with a thick fragrant undergrowth. A bold spur running northwards from the southern ridge was characterized by a small natural turret or platform of rock, rising from a knoll which stood covered with fallen masonry above a group of olives, beneath which again the thickets clothed the mountain. This knoll represented the ruin of 'Erma, which on closer inspection proved to be a site undoubtedly ancient, and presenting the aspect of an old ruined town. Some of the walls, rudely built in mortar, may belong to the Arab period, but the rude blocks built up against scarps, natural or artificial, which occur in various directions, resemble the old masonry of the vine- yard towers, which date back to a very early period. {SHEET XVII.] BIBLICAL SITES. 49 On the east is a fine rock-cut wine-press ; on the south a great cistern covered by a huge hollowed stone, which forms the well-mouth, and which, from its size and its weather-beaten appearance, must evidently be very ancient. Rude caves also occur, and the ground is strewn with fragments of ancient pottery. But the most curious feature of the site is the platform of rock, which has all the appearance of an ancient high-place or central shrine. The area is about 50 feet north and south by 30 feet east and west, the surface, which appears to be artificially levelled, being some 10 feet above the ground outside. The scarping of the sides seems mainly natural, but a foundation has been s.unk on three sides, in which rudely squared blocks of stone have been fitted as the base of a wall. On the east this wall consisted of rock to a height of 3^ feet, with a thickness of 7 feet. There is an outer platform, about 10 feet wide, traceable on the south and south-east, and a flight of steps 3 feet wide, each step being i foot high and i foot broad, leads up to this lower level at the south-east angles. There is a small cave under the platform, and the ruined houses extend along the spur principally north and south of this remarkable rocky tower. The view from the ruin on the west is also worthy of notice. The valley is seen winding 600 or 700 feet beneath, and the cliffs and caves of the northern ridge form unusually accentuated features. Beyond these the broad corn-vale of Sorek (the Mahaneh Dan) is seen extending beneath the rounded hill on which gleams the white dome of Neby Samit, close to Zoreah. The actual site of Beth Shemesh is hidden by the southern ridge, but the valley-bed north of the ruin is visible. On the hill to the south stand the houses of Deir el Hawa, and to the east the peak of SammCmieh hides the further course of the valley. Standing on the rocky tower we saw clearly how well the Mahaneh Dan might be described as 'west' of Kirjath Jearim — how naturally the Ark might have been sent from the lowlands of Beth Shemesh to this neighbouring city, so strongly posted in the rude hills of Judah. In the central platform we might perhaps recognise the high-place of Baal, whence the city took its name, or the Gibeah where the Ark was kept ; for Kirjath Jearim is not the only sacred city of Palestine in which the altars of Jehovah and of Baal once stood side by side. The instances VOL. III. 7 50 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. of Carmel and of Bethel will recur to the reader's mind, with other Indi- cations of a similar kind. Here, then, at 'Erma, we seem to find in a remarkable manner the numerous requisites of the site of Kirjath Jearim fulfilled. The name, the position, the character of the ruin, the view thence, the surrounding thickets which half cover the site, the situation close to the edge of the higher hills and to the mouth of the great gorge, the proximity to Beth Shemesh, and the relative positions of Chesalon and the Mahaneh Dan, all seem to agree in fixing 'Erma as the true site of the important boundary town where the Ark was kept for twenty years. Having studied the question carefully on the spot, and having ascer- tained the importance and antiquity of the site, I cannot but look upon this identification as one of the most valuable which has yet resulted from the Survey of Western Palestine. ' The exact position of Kirjath Jearim is of great importance for the right understanding of several Biblical narratives. Fortunately we have several statements as to its position rela- tively to known places. Thus Judges xviii. 12 tells that it lay m^/ of Beth Shemesh ; and from I Samuel vi. 21, vii. i, we learn that in relation to that same place it lay " up," and was on, or by, a hill (Gibea). These indications lead us to look for it at the head of the great valley of Surar, in which Beth Shemesh lies. ' Chesalon (Kesla) lies up eastward from Beth Shemesh, and we know from Joshua xv. 10 that Kirjath Jearim must be sought still farther east, or sontli-fA'a'i. ' Again, Psalm cxxxii. 6, though obscure, manifestly implies that the Ark while at Kirjath Jearim, or when on its way thence to Sion (2 Samuel vi.), was near Bethlehem Ephratah. 'Further, the description in Joshua xv. 8-10 of the boundary of Judah tells us that it ran up from the ravine of Hinnom to the top of the mountain lying west of that ravine and at the north end of the valley of Rephaim ; that thence it reached along from the top of the ridge to the fountain of the water of Nephtoah, and went out to the cities of Mount Ephron, and reached to Kirjath Jearim, whence the border curved westward to Mount Seir, and passed over to the north shoulder of Har Jearim, which is Chesalon. 'Of this boundary line the extremities, Hinnom and Kesla, are known. 'A curious feature of it appears in Joshua xviii. 15, where the southern boundary of Benjamin (and northern of Judah), while traced from the west eastwards, is said to go from Kirjath Jearim westward. The cities of Mount Ephron, or the last of the group, must there- fore have lain to the south or south-east of Kirjath Jearim. The line could not have gone to the Jiorth-west, or it would have formed the western., not the southern, boundary of Benjamin, and the borders of Judah and Benjamin would have touched to the west of Kirjath Jearim, contrary to Joshua xviii. 14. ' Just such a line would be described if we trace the boundary of Judah from the valley of Hinnom, due westward, and not up by the north-west side of Jerusalem, sweeping around the valley of Rephaim so as to enclose it, coming thus near Rachel's Sepulchre (i Samuel x. 2), [SHEET XVIL] BIBLICAL SITES. 51 and thence westward a little, then stretching back in a north-easterly direction towards 'Ain Karim, and so out westward by Kesla. ' Or it might be drawn, I think, so as to exclude the valley of Rephaim, giving that to Benjamin. The boundary would then run by the Wady el Werd, and Rachel's Tomb would be literally on the border of Benjamin. ' The identification of Lifta with Nephtoah is no doubt conclusive against such a proposal, if it could be relied on. But does not Lifta rather represent Eleph of Joshua xviii. 2S? And though the proposal to identify Nephtoah and Netophah has been condemned, there is not a little to be said for it. Nephtoah is only named in Joshua xv. 9, xviii. 15, while Neto- phah does not occur earlier than 2 Samuel xxiii. 28, 29. We read only of " the shining of the water of Nephtoah," not of a town of that name. There was a Wady Beth Netophah, and presumably "a water" in the Wady of the same name. Netophah was applied to a considerable district : there were "villages of the Netophathites" (i Chron. ix. 16, Neh. xii. 28). It lay notfarfrom Bethlehem (i Chron. ii. 54, Neh. vii. 26, Esdras v. 17, 18); and the form of the name Anetophah has been recognised in Autubeh, to the north of Bethlehem, while Beth Netophah has been identified with Beit Nettif some miles to the west. Notably the name of Netophah is found in the Greek both as Nsrwpa and Nsjtwra, illustrating the very transposition of consonants required ; while the change of Tuih for Tan in the Hebrew cannot be accounted of much moment, considering the age of the record in Joshua, and that the " t " — sometimes " fk " — disappears altogether in " Nehopas," yet another form of Netophah. 'As to the valley of Rephaim, it is not certain where precisely it lay, whether to the north or south of the boundary line, though probably to the south. From 2 Samuel xxiii. 13 we gather that at least its southern extremity lay west of Bethlehem, and so interposed between it and AduUam. The statement of i Samuel x. 2 may perhaps thus be explained ; it is certainly precise as to the sepulchre of Rachel being on the border of Benjamin, while the description in Genesis xxxv. seems to fix it pretty conclusively. It would scarce be counted strange if the boundary here made even some detour to enclose the birthplace of Benjamin in the inheritance of his children. 'May not 'Ain Karim preserve the sound if not the site of Kirjath Jcarim ? It is written in Ezra ii. 25 'A r i m {possibly that is the correct reading in Joshua xviii. 28, whereas in I Samuel vii. i, we find it linked with a Gibe a). When the "city of the woods" became a ruin, the " well " would remain ; and as the neighbouring Beth Shemesh became 'Ain She m s, Kirjath 'Arim would become 'Ain Karim. That the Am should take this Caph sound is nothing unusual. The proposed identification of 'Ain Karim with R e k e m is a possible one, no doubt ; but, if accepted, it would surely throw the boundary of Benjamin too far south to admit of locating Kirjath Jcarim at Kuryet el 'Enab. And as the proper name of that place is simply Kariet ("Quarterly Statement," 1876, p. 80), it is more pro- bably Kirjath of Joshua xviii. 28. 'Ain Karim has been identified also with Kerem of the Septuagint, Joshua xv. 59, and with Bcthcar, so that it seems yet undetermined. 'Since the probability of 'Ain Karim being tlie site of Kirjath Jearim had occurred to me, 1 have met with the interesting announcement in the January number of the " Statement," p. 19, of the discovery of Khurbet 'E r m a, "a ruin on the brink of the great valley 2 miles south of Kesla or Chesalon." Here may be the true sig/it of KirjalJi Jcarim ; and the boundary may not have " reached along" so far north as 'Ain Karim. This is a matter to be judged of only on the spot, or by one intimately acquainted with the contour of the ground; 52 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE but I venture to suggest that the boundary Une should go thus, much farther south than is usually drawn, by the Wady Bittir down into the Wady Siirar. ' Such a line would fit the Biblical narratives. The men of Beth-Shemesh would send the Ark up the valley eastward, as its easiest road back to Shiloh. There is no trace of any road ever having led over to Kuryet el 'Enab. When, after its resting there, it was removed to Sion, it would pass not far from Ephratah (Psalm cxxxii. 6), and of it, as there, David must have known as a boy at Bethlehem, and so would naturally describe one going out to seek the lost Ark coming on its track, so to say, " hearing of it " there. Again, it is more than probable that the gathering of Israel to Mizpeh (i Samuel vii.) was to the neighbour- hood of the Ark ; that this was the place where Samuel judged Israel, and where Saul found him in the land of Zuph, whence he returned by Rachel's sepulchre (i Samuel ix. 1 1, 25 ; x. 2). Miglil Jiot this be recognised in Soba 1 Placing Mizpeh here, we could better understand the story of Israel's victory when they drove the Israelites to below Beth Car. Beth Car (or Beth Chor) seems to be identified in the narrative with "Shen" (i Samuel vii. 11, 12); for which we should rather read Ha-shen, probably for Ashan. The Septuagint reads Yasan, and the Peshito, Syriac, and Arabic versions render both words (Smith's "Dictionary") by Beth Jasan. That they were two names for one place, or the names of places so close as to be practically one, is also rendered more than probable by tlieir conjunction in Chorashan, 1 Samuel xxx. 30, as a district not far from Ziglag, somewhere south of Beit Jibrin and east of Gaza. If Ha-shen is the Ashan of Joshua xv. 38, this must have been its locality. If the defeated Philistines were chased down the valley past Gath, Ebenezer, which was set up between Mizpeh and Beth Car, might be sought for in that neighbourhood ; and the locality of the earlier battle, when " the Ark of God was taken," would be fixed thereabouts, for the Israelites pitched in Ebenezer (i Samuel iv.) and the Philistines in Aphek. ' This suggested removal southward of all those scenes in Samuel's life — which follows the abandonment of Neby Samwil for Soba as the Mizpeh of i Samuel (not the Maspha of later times) — seems to accord better, not only with these narratives, but also with vii. 16, as the places of judging are more equally distributed ; wdth xv. 12, which implies that Samuel's house was not very far from Carmel ; with viii. 2, as his sons at Beersheba were not so removed from him as otherwise might seem ; and we would thus understand why David clung so tenaciously to a neighbourhood hostile and treacherous to him (as Keilah), because of Samuel's frequent presence there.' — Archibald lienderson, ' Quarterly Statement,' 1878, pp. 196—199. N e p h t o a h (see above, Etam). Netophah (Neh. vii. 26) appears to be the ruin of U m m T 6 b a, or possibly Beit Nettif. Sechu. — A place between Gibeah of Saul and Ramathaim Zophim (i Samuel xix. 20), with a well at it. The name K h li r b e t S u w e i k e h occurs between Jeb^ and Ram-Allah. Shaalabbin (Joshua xix. 42). — A town of Dan, mentioned next to Aijalon. It appears to be the Selebi of Jerome ('Commentary on {SHEET XFI/.] BIBLICAL SITES, 53 Ezekiel,' xlviii. 22) mentioned with Ailon and Emmaiis. This points to the identity of the ruin of S e 1 b i t, 2 miles north of 'A m w a s. Socoh (Joshua xv. 35) was known in the fourth century as 8 or 9 Roman miles from Eleutheropolis (Beit Jibrin), on the road to Jerusalem. This agrees with the position of K h u r b e t S h u w e i k e h. Sorek (Valley) (Judges xvi. 4). — A town called Caphar Sorech is mentioned in the ' Onomasticon ' as near Saraa (Siirah), evidently the present ruin of K h 11 r b e t S u r i k. This would point to W a d y e s Surar as the Valley of Sorek; and this valley is still inhabited by Bedawin, much as the Philistines probably lived in it amongst the settled Jewish population. Timnah. — A town of Judah (Joshua xv. 57), mentioned with Gibeah, There is a ruin called Tibna near Jebd, in the higher hills of the 'Arkub, distinct from Tibneh (Sheet XVI.), which represents the Timnah of Joshua xv. 10. Zoheleth (Stone) (i Kings i. 9) was by en Rogel ('A in Umm ed Deraj). This points to Zahweileh, the cliff on which the village of Silwan stands, the names being almost identical in meaning and form. ' Nearly in the centre of the line alont; which stretches the village of Siloam, there exists a rocky plateau surrounded by Arab buildings, which mask its true form and extent : the western face, cut perpendicularly, slightly overhangs the valley. Steps rudely cut in the rock enable one to climb it, not without difficulty, and so to penetrate directly from the valley to the midst of the village. By this road, troublesome, and even dangerous, pass habitually the women of Siloam, who come to fill their vessels at the so-called " Virgin's Fount" ('Ain Sitti Miriam, Immed-deraj). Now, this passage and the ledge of rock in which it is cut are called by the fellahin " Ez Zehwicl^." It is impossible not to be struck with the absolute identity which this name offers with that of the stone of Zoekth^ which the Bible (i Kings i. 9) places near (b^ix) en Rogel. The vocal type itself is exactly reproduced, putting aside an insignificant inversion of the sound (9, which in Hebrew precedes, and in Arabic follows, the consonant p,. A homogeneous transcript will present us with this identity in still clearer manner : Hebrew, Zohekt ; Arabic, ZehoJuiet. ' I believe, then, that we can consider the situation of the stones of Zoheleth definitely determined. This point fixed with certainty can serve to determine the position of many others of the highest interest. At present I can only indicate a few, proposing to return to the question at length at some future time. For example, it becomes extremely probable that we must put en Rogel at the Virgin's Fountain, and not at Bir Eyub. In fact, Bir Eyub is 700 metres distant from Zehwele, and the Pool of Siloam is 400 metres ; while the Virgin's Fountain, situated exactly opposite Zehwclc, is only separated from it by the breadth 54 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. of the valley, about 60 metres. I call attention to the importance of this result in tracing the line separating the territories of Benjamin and Judah, which passed by en Rogel, and the support which it affords to Captain Warren's ingenious theory of the direction of this line. ' I must advance another fact which appears to me intimately connected with this remark, and to confirm it in a certain measure. AVe know the multiplicity of denominations under which the great western valley of Jerusalem, so commonly called the Kedron, is known. The fellahin of Siloam divide it into three sections, which are, proceeding from north to south, ist, Wady Sitti Miriam ; 2nd, A\^ady Fer'aun ; 3rd, Wady Eyub. The name of the intermediate part, which extends from the south-east angle of the Haram to the confluence at the north of Bir Eyub, is remarkable : Wady Fer'aun, that is, Pharaoh's Valley. Now, it is well known that to the Arabs, the name of Pharaoh simply indicates the idea of something or other of ancient times, and it is found with this vague meaning in a crowd of places which have nothing to do with Egypt, very much as in France, where all Roman camps are, for the vulgar, Caesar's camps. Wady Fer'aun signifies, then, the valley of the king, and the region to which this name is applied is precisely that which the King's Gardens of the Bible used to occupy.' — C. Clermont Ganneau, 'Quarterly Statement,' 1869, p. 252. Non-Biblical Sites. A rath is mentioned in the ' Onomasticon ' as west of Jerusalem — possibly the present K h u r b e t H a r a s h, near K u 1 6 n i e h. Ceperaria. — A place shown in the Peutinger Tables (393 a.d.), 12 Roman miles from EleutheropoHs, 24 from Jerusalem. The distances point to the large ruin of K e f r U r i e h. S i o r, between Jerusalem and EleutheropoHs ('Onomasticon'), would seem to be the present ruin of S ai reh, beside one of the Roman roads. St. Cyprian is mentioned as early as 1422 by John Poloner, south of Jerusalem. The name H a u d K i b r i y a n (' Cyprian's Trough ') perhaps indicates the neighbourhood of this monastery, which may have stood at the ruin of K e b a r, on the hill above. St. Elias (the present Mar Elias) is mentioned as early as 11 87 a.d. (' Citez de Jherusalem'). The modern traditions connected with the place, as well as that of the field of peaise immediately south, also date back to the Middle Ages. (See Section C.) Tomb of Rachel. — This site has been shown from the fourth century to the present time in the same place. In 700 a.d. it is men- tioned as surmounted by a pyramid. In iioo a.d. the same description is given. In 1422 a Moslem building is noticed as standing o\-er the [SHEE T XVII.] NON-BIBLICAL SITES. 55 place. The surrounding ground is called Cabra by Origen (see Reland's ' Palestine,' p. 704), and the same title (founded on a mistranslation) often occurs in later writings — as, for instance, in iioo a.d,, when John of Wirtzburg calls the place Chabratha. (See Section B.) Tower of Eder is said by Jerome to have been a mile from Bethlehem (' Onomasticon,' s. v. Bethlehem), probably near the ruined monastery of Sir el Ghanem, the two titles having a similar mean- ing — ' Tower of the Flock' and ' Fold of the Flock,' Roads. — There are nine main lines of communication on this Sheets eight of which are ancient : I. The Watershed Road. — Coming from Bethel, the road descends gradually after passing B 1 r e h, following an open valley for 4 miles. It then ascends again some 200 feet per mile to the plateau near 5 h a f a t. A Roman milestone fallen beside the road (as marked on the map) is inscribed as below : IbAOTIBT IMPANTONINI IMPHADRIANI IMPTRAIANPARTHOR IMPNERYAE The list being that of the names of the Antonine Emperors. The road descends from the plateau towards Jerusalem, entering by the north gate. Leaving the capital by the west gate, and crossing the valley, the road ascends somewhat steeply to the B u k e i a plateau, and follows the shed, with only one large bend to avoid the head ofWady ed Dashish. Leaving Bethlehem on the east, the road runs south-west to the low ground round the Burak. It then ascends sharply through a narrow pass, having the ridge of Ras esh Sherifeh on the west, and the gorge of Wady el Biar on the east. Its further course is noticed on Sheet XXI. The pass is described by Josephus (Ant. xii. 9, 4). 2. Jerusalem to Jaf fa. — The main road at present in use ascends gradually to Kubab. It then descends into a shallow valley, 56 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE.- and crosses the bed by a modern bridge. The course is flat from this point for if miles to the foot of the hill of L a t r 6 n. The ascent is here made between low side-banks of rock, and the road again falls gradually east of the ruins, and follows the course of Wady 'A 1 y for 2\ miles to the Bab el Wad, where it enters a narrow pass between high hills. It then ascends the valley, having a rise of 1,400 feet in 3^ miles. Here, from a point just east of Saris, the last view is obtained of the plain through a gap. The course is tolerably flat for miles to Kuryet el 'Enab, whence there is a descent of about 380 feet in a mile to the spring of 'A i n D i 1 b e h. The road then rises again 250 feet to the ridge just beneath K u s t u 1, and again descends 630 feet in a mile to the bridge over the valley at K u 1 6 n i e h. The road then ascends again by a steep and winding course to the plateau west of Jerusalem, reaching an elevation of 2,685 ^^et above the sea, or 850 feet above the Kiilonieh bridge, at a point 2\ miles from it. Here the view over the great valley just passed, as far as K listul on the west, is fine. The road descends 180 feet in the last miles to the Jaffa Gate, This line was once carefully made, but the drainage being imperfect, it was destroyed by the winter rains, and is now often impassable by wheeled vehicles. The road does not appear to have been an ancient main line, but an old Roman road from Y a 1 o runs south nearly to Bab el Wad, then, turning east, ascends 1,400 feet in 4 miles, and joins the modern road west of Kuryet el 'Enab. A milestone lies beside the path on the ascent. The road descends the hill at Kfiryet el 'Enab, and then again diverges from the modern main line, running north-east to B i d d u, with an ascent of some 500 feet. It joins No. 3. 3. Jerusalem to L y d d a. — This road descends past the so-called * Tombs of the Judges,' and crosses Wady Beit Han in a, climbing up again by a steep ascent to B e i t I k s a. It then runs along a ridge for about 6 miles in a north-east direction, with a fall of 900 feet. East of K u b e i b e h an ancient milestone lies fallen by the side of the way. The course gradually changes to due west near K h u r b e t el J e d e i r, and the road descends 900 feet in 2 miles, crossing Wady S e 1 m a n, and entering the district of the low undulating hills, across which it runs north- west, with a total fall of 300 feet in about 5 miles. {SHEET XV J/.] ROADS. 57 A cross communication with No. 4 branches off from No. 3, and runs up the course of W a cl y S el man, rising 1,440 feet in about 8 miles along the line, and reaching the open plain of e 1 Jib, the steepest gradient being some 200 feet in the last quarter of a mile. 4. Jerusalem to Lydda (Northern Route). — This road leaves No. I half a mile north of Tell el F u 1, and runs north-west, descend- ing in f mile 150 feet, and crossing Wady ed D u m m. It then rises again 200 feet in a mile, and crossing the swell, descends 150 feet to cross the second open valley. Leaving el Jib to the left, it rises 200 feet in the next 2 miles, and then follows a ridge to Beit 'Ur el F 6 k a, the ridge falling 500 feet in less than 4 miles. The road now descends sharply, and shows evident signs of antiquity. In half a mile the fall is 500 feet. The course runs westwards, gradually descending 150 feet in the next 4 miles. The rest of the course (Sheets XIII., XIV.) has a gradual descent to the plain, joining No. 3 west of J i m z u. At Beit'Ur etTahta another ancient line runs from No. 4 west to Beit Sira, and then, turning due south, follows Wady el Miktely, de- scending gradually, and running across the low hills to Beit Nuba and Y a 1 o, with a branch over the open plain to 'A m was. 5. Bethel to Jerich o. — The old line running down from B e i t i n follows the ridge south-east of that place, gradually descending to the open plateau of D e i r D i w a n, passing on the south slope of the great mound of et Tell. From Deir Diwan the old line ran to M u k h m a s, falling gradually 600 feet in 2^ miles ; thence it runs east to the ridge of Ras et Tawil. (See further, Sheet XVIII.) 6. Jerusalem to Jerich o. — There are two lines which both join in the open valley west of T a r^t ed Dumm (Sheet XVIII.). The one to the north ascends the Mount of Olives, rising 350 feet in about \ mile. Thence it runs north-east for about 4 miles, with a gradual descent along the side of the ridge, and then descends into the valley, running east to join the second line. The southern line passes south of the summit of Olivet, ascending only 100 feet, and running round the contour of the hill to Bethany. East of that village a sharp descent of 500 feet leads down into the valley at VOL. III. 8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. 'A i n H a u d. The line then runs north-east, descending gradually along the valley, falling 500 feet in 2\ miles. 7. Jerusalem to Mar Sab a. — The road runs down W a d y en N a r, and crossing a low saddle, avoids the great bend of that valley, and runs south-east, descending 850 feet in about 5 miles ; numerous ancient wells occur along the course, and this road seems to be that which led to Zuk. (See Roman road. Sheet XVIII.) 8. Jerusalem to Enged i. — An ancient line leaves No. i on the plain south of Jerusalem, and runs along a ridge south- east for 5 miles in a line, reaching the high hill of U m m e t T a 1 east of Bethlehem, where an old cross-road from Bethlehem to Mar Saba passes across it. It then has a descent of about 800 feet in half a mile to the K a b r G h a n n a m, from which point the fall is more gradual. 9. Jerusalem to Jamnia. — The mainline leaves No. i at the B u r a k, and runs north-west to el K h u d r ; by a gradual ascent it reaches the saddle north of the great ridge of Ras esh Sherifeh, and there are here numerous Mesha-hed, or piles of stones erected by pilgrims. Thence, with a gradual descent, the road runs west along the ridge to H {i b i n. About a mile east of that ruin a milestone lies beside it. It here bifurcates, the southern branch having a milestone 2 Roman miles from the last mentioned, and descending due west into the open valley below Beit Nettif, where the main line from Hebron (Sheet XXL, No. 5) down Wady es Sunt joins it. An old line runs due north from the hill of Beit Nettif, along the ridge, to join the northern branch about to be described. The line along Wady e s Sunt, westwards, is probably also a main ancient line of communication. The northern branch from H u b i n runs along the ridge to Beit ' A t a b, and then descends sharply, having a fall of 800 feet in 2\ miles. It reaches the broad open valley of Wady es Siirar, which it follows (Sheet XVI.). There are traces of the pavement and side walls along the greater part of the length of this ancient line, which forms the easiest ascent to Jerusalem from the plain. SHEET XVII.— SECTION B. ARCHEOLOGY, Abu el 'A i n e i n (L s). — A modern ruined Kubbeh with a fir- tree. To the east are traces of ruins. 'A i n H a u d (K u). — The spring has a building over it with a trough, which appears modern. Near it is a ruined Khan, apparently not very old. 'A i n Hanniyeh (L t). — A modern tradition makes this the fountain where Philip baptized the eunuch. The spring flows out in the wall of a little platform, with a kind of apse facing southwards. The floor of the platform is 8 feet above the level of the road. The apse is feet diameter, and 5 feet to the back. It is flanked by two pilasters, i foot 2 inches wide, having Corinthian capitals. The apse has a niche in it at the back, 2 feet 9 inches above the floor. The niche is 3 feet high, i foot 6 inches wide, i foot 3 inches deep. The total height of the apse is 9 feet 6 inches above the floor to the tops of the pillar capitals. The wall in which the apse is formed has a length of about 20 feet, and faces north. The water of the spring is now caught in a stone trough. A fig- tree grows over the wall. The niche was probably intended for a figure of the genius of the spring. In the road just in front of this structure — which seems, in part at least, to be a reconstruction, since the base of a pillar is built into the floor of the platform — is a great cylindrical stone 4 feet 3 inches high, and 4 feet in diameter. It has a hole in one end 10 inches deep, i foot 2 inches in diameter ; and in the side two grooves 2 feet 9 inches long, 5 inches deep, and widening from 6 inches at the end to 12 inches near the middle of the stone. The use of this stone is not clear. This interesting place was photographed by Captain Warren (No. 343 of the Society's Scries). The building is considered by Sepp and Gudrin to be earlier than the Crusading 8—2 6o THE SURVEY OF WESTERN EALESTINE. period. The tradition cannot be traced farther baclc, but it has been accepted by the Greeks and Armenians. 'A i n Maktiish (L t). — The spring comes out of a building some lo feet high and lo yards long, of large unhewn blocks. This wall has a very ancient appearance. The water is cool and abundant ; a large terebinth grows in front. (3rd June, 1875.) 'A i n Shcms (J t). — Heaps of stones and ruined walls of modern appearance, the remains of a former village on a low Tell. There is no spring at the place, but in the valleys to the south there are several ; to the east are olives ; in the ruins is a Mukam of Neby Meizer. There is a low swell west of the village site, on which are ruins apparently more ancient — foundations and walls of good masonry. On the north are rock-cut tombs, half buried. A large 'Ozbeh, or summer settlement of drystone huts, with roofs of boughs, was found here in 1881, inhabited during harvest time. 'A i n el Wahash (L u). — By this spring is a single rock-cut tomb just above the road ; a chamber about 7 feet wide, with a stone bench running round the back and side walls on the interior, but without any loctili. (18th October, 1873.) 'A in Karim (L t).^ — South of the modern village near the wall of the convent of the Sisters of Sion are three rock-cut tombs. No. I, furthest east, contains two kokiiu at the back, and one each side of a square chamber. No. 2 is choked. No. 3 has a square ante-chamber, and an inner chamber \\ feet lower, with a bench round three sides and a koka at the back. On the southern hill west of the spring ('Ain Sitti Miriam), and close to the new Russian hospice, ruins were discovered by the Latins, in 1861, in building the new Chapel of the Summer-House of Zacharias. The grounds were excavated to a depth of 15 to 20 feet, and the lower story of the old church (mentioned by John Poloner (1422) as having a sub- terranean and an upper chapel) was found. All that can now be seen is the recent reconstruction, except a small cave, or vault, south of the altar, which is at the east end. A piece of stone is here shown which melted like wax, and hid John the Baptist, as an infant, from Herod's soldiers. Outside this chapel on the south are [SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 6i arches and vaults in ruins, remains of a former monastery. The masonry is of good size and finish, some stones drafted. A courtyard is entered from the west, and a stone rib, with low point, rises from a massive pier ; these are remains of a vault of which the rag-work has disappeared. There is diagonal dressino: on the stones, but no masons' marks occur. A narrow staircase leads up from the cloister north of the court to a chapel above that before noticed. Only the foundations of its walls remain ; the apse and part of a stone altar are traceable ; the interior was once covered with plaster and painted in fresco. There are many graffiti on the plaster, and on one stone a rude cutting representing the high- priest's breastplate — no doubt due to the tradition which erroneously supposes Zacharias to have been a high -priest. On the south side of the apse is the piscina. South of this chapel are remains of cells and steps, the rock being scarped. These ruins are partly hid by the soil of an orchard, which once covered the entire site, and in which the chapels and other buildinors were found buried. 'Ain Karim was given to the Franciscans through the influence of the Marquis de Nointal, Ambassador of Louis XIV. to the Sultan of Turkey. The church and monastery probably date back only to this time, as the absence of masons' marks seems to indicate that the masonry is not of the twelfth century, nor does the finish of the work resemble that of Crusading buildings. There are two good springs within the limits of the property. The Church of the Baptist, in the village itself, is of Crusading origin ; but the interior has been covered with encaustic tiles, and none of the older work is recognisable. The dome rises from four heavy piers ; the grotto north of the high altar (at the east end of the church), is reached by seven steps ; it is said to be the birthplace of St. John. A bad copy of a Murillo is hung on the north side of the church, and much prized by the monks, who are chiefly Spaniards. Revisited 20th July, 1881. 'Ain Y a 1 o (M u). — A small monastery seems once to have existed here. On the north side of the hill, south of the spring, are three tombs one having three locnli, the second, five kokini, and the third, two kokim. Gucrin found the name of Deir el Rouni (' Convent of Christians') attached to this place. He speaks of a rectangular building 15 feet long by 13 feet broad, the lower courses of which 62 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. were, on the occasion of his visit, still /;/ situ. Beside the spring he saw three shafts lying on the ground. 'Alaly el Bena t — This group of caves in Wady Siirar probably represents an old hermitage. There is a broad ledge, with a precipice above, containing one row of caves, while others occur beneath. The eastern group of upper caves includes No. i, a rude cave 28 feet to the back, 1 2 feet broad. Nos. 2 and 3, just west of it, are pigeon-holes in the rock, the latter being 9 feet long, 3 feet wide, 4 feet high, perhaps a sleeping-place. No. 4 is a large excavation — a sort of open court with a cave at ground-level at each end, and two good-sized cisterns, while 10 or 12 feet higher a gallery is hollowed in the face of the cliff looking south-east ; steps are seen leading thence to a cave on the left, and there is another cave on the right, and higher up on the left another inaccessible cave in the cliff, with a small out-look excavated in the face of the precipice. Near this group are three other inaccessible caves in the cliff. The western group of caves on the same level is some 130 yards distant. No. I is a cave 12 feet square. No. 2 a large group rather higher, with a steep ascent of about 10 feet in the face of the rock. The cave is open in front, 66 feet long by about 50 to the back. On the right a rude chamber 18 feet by 16 feet, with a sort of window in the precipice ; at the back on the right is a chamber 22 feet wide, 40 feet to the back ; and to the right another excavation 40 feet wide, 7 feet to the back. In the precipice below these caves are some half dozen small caves, like Nos. 2 and 3 of the west group above noted. There are thus about 20 caves in all. Visited i8th July, 18S1. 'Allar es Sifleh (K u). — Apparently an ancient site with rock- cut tombs. Khiirbet Nuh forms part of the site with its two springs and cfardens of oranre trees. There is a ruined building here, which appears to have been an ancient church. The building has a bearing 107° east along its length, with a window to the east and two to the north. On the south was the door. The measurements outside were 88 feet east and west by 46 feet north and south. The walls are 10 feet {SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 63 thick, and standing in parts 20 feet high. A cornice runs round the interior ; two brackets remain on the north wall between the windows, which probably once supported the arches of the roof. The windows are very narrow, with round arches above. The masonry is of small stones, rudely squared, but the faces not dressed smooth. The mortar is hard and mixed with charcoal. The core of the walls is of rubble. The interior of the church is cemented. All these details point to the building being of 1 2th century date. (Compare Khurbet Ikbala.) Among the ruins are vaults cemented inside, with small masonry and pointed arches. One corner of a building had drafted stones, the face rustic, and projecting 2^ inches, the draft 4 inches wide. Near this is an old ruined tank. The ruins are probably to be attributed to Crusading times. Visited October 22, 1873. 'A m w a s {J s). — The village has rock-tombs near it, some of which are of the kind known as ' rock-sunk,' apparently of Christian origin. To the south is the ruined church. (See Palestine Exploration Fund Photo No. 1 58.) The three eastern apses are still traceable ; the masonry, standing for two or three courses above the surface, is of moderate size, one stone 10 feet long, 2 feet high) 3 feet thick. Some of the stones are drafted, the draft 2j to 4 inches broad ; the core of the walls is of rubble. The north wall of the church is 90 feet long, outside the west wall 84 feet long. The cen- tral apse is 33 feet diameter, the side apses 12 feet. The church had a west door, and an east window in the nave apse. The style of the whole building is Byzantine. Excavations have recently been conducted at 'Amwas by Captain Guillemot, of the French corps of Engineers, and a full account is to be published by this officer. The foundations of the church have been partly ' 9 . -y , f Scale of Jeet 'p 2f 3p ip Sp Op ep 64 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. excavated, and the account is published in ' Les Missions Cathohques,' No. 665, 3rd March, 1882. It was found that a more recent building had been constructed on the ruins of the old Byzantine church, apparently in the twelfth century. The church as then restored measured 95 feet along the north wall, and 55 feet along the west wall externally, and appears to have consisted of five bays, indicated by the foundations of external Scale buttresses. It had a west door and two side doors, one north and the other south, in the eastern bay. The wall, not including the buttress, is 4 feet thick. In the south apse a tomb was found, about a yard beneath the present surface : it appears to be a Moslem grave of a Derwish, Several rock- cut tombs exist close by, and a great number of small glass bottles, about 6 inches long, like the tear bottles usually found in tombs ; about 20 were preserved unbroken. A limekiln was also found close by. Pottery, inosaic, bases and capitals of pillars, were discovered in digging round the church walls. One of these capitals, which probably belonged to the Byzantine church, was found just outside the east end of the north wall of the Crusading church. It is a rude Ionic capital, like those used in the fifth century ; between the volutes is a Hebrew inscription on a tablet on one side, and between the volutes on the other side a Greek inscription. The Hebrew characters are : which is read : ' Blessed be His name for ever.' The Greek reads : ETC GEOC. ' One God.' This ejaculation is not uncommon in Byzantine Greek inscriptions, and is found on a tomb at B e 1 ^, dating probably from the fourth century. [SHEET XVri.] 'ARCHEOLOGY. 65 (See Sheet XL, Section B, Vol. II.) The formula also occurs in an inscription in Greek which has recently been found on a tomb at Arsuf, and has been transported to Jaffa. The Hebrew inscription is probably a copy from an older original. The capital is marked 5 on the under side, probably for Sex, showing the position which it was intended to occupy in the church. The Crusaders destroyed the side walls of the older church, and re-used the masonry ; they appear to have built a smaller apse within the old north apse. (Compare the restoration of the church at Beit Jibrin, Sheet XX.) In the Crusading walls several masons' marks were noted. The mediaeval masonry is in courses about 2 feet 3 inches high, with stones 6 feet to 13 feet long, having the diagonal dressing. The Byzantine masonry of the apses is dressed with a point ; the stones are of equal size with the Crusading work. The roof of the south apse is in situ. It is a flat half dome, with large stones built round a central key. The sill of an east window, 5 feet broad, remains in the centre apse ; the voussoirs of the dome of the north apse lie on the floor. The foundations of a parallel wall, north of the north apse, have also been laid bare, perhaps indicating a courtyard round the church, 19 feet from the north wall. The stones are for the most part rough and small, the base course, however, is of stones, 3 feet high and 4-^ feet long. A fragment of a window cornice, with holes for three bars, was found near. East of the church human bones were dug out in great quantities, and a cross, with a hole in it, intended to be worn round the neck, was VOL. III. 9 66 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. found. Probably a cemetery existed here in Christian times. A rough bench-tomb or cave, 3 paces square, with a bench, 2\ feet wide, round three sides, occurs south of the church, and there are remains of a pave- ment of stones, 3^ by 2f square and i foot 4 inches thick. A well-cut white marble shaft, 20 inches in diameter, and 3^ feet long, was found near. The pavement outside the church is 2\ feet lower than the floor inside, and the buttresses stand on a plinth, or basement. A single step occurs at the north and west doors. In the village itself excavations have also been conducted, and many foundations of fairly good masonry are found a foot or two below the surface. Some rude Ionic capitals have also been found, and two or three rough shafts, also a stone, 8 feet long, 3 feet 3 inches high, and 9 inches thick, having a simple beading on the two longer sides, 9 inches in all, with a total projection of f of an inch. Visited 20th April, 18S2. ' Another interview with the fellah Ibraham Almud gave me new traditions on the ancient Nicopolis which are not without their value. Tt is always the famous pestilence of which I have already spoken in my previous reports which fills the principal part in these vague souvenirs of the past. ' On the first appearance of the pestilence at Emmaus, the inhabitants, who were all Jews, mostly fled. Nearly all who remained died. The scourge passed, the fugitives came back to the town. But the following year the epidemic appeared again, and the people all perished without having the time to escape by flight. At this moment arrived Neby Ozeir (Esdras), who found all dead — men, women, and children. The prophet having asked of God why he had so rudely chastised the country, supplicated the Almighty to resuscitate the victims. It was done, and since that time the Jews have been named oidad el m'ltce {the children of the putting to death). ' It is to this epidemic that the city of 'Amwas owes its name, according to our fellahin. They say, in fact, of the pestilence, amm-ou-asa (it zvas extended generally, and was an afflic- tion). (I have not been able to determine precisely the meaning of the second verb, which I omitted in my notes.) Of course, I put no faith in the truth of this etymology, which is evidently artificial, like many of the same kind met with in the Bible as well as in the mouths of the people, and on which I have many times in these reports found occasion to insist. ' It will be curious to give, side by side with this rustic etymology, a philologic explanation of the same kind given us by St. Jerome precisely apropos of Emmaus. The learned Fulton translates the word Emmaus as popidiis abjectus, alias abjicientes, which proves that he decomposed Emmaus into Atn, people, and Mans, refuse. St. Jerome appears to allude to various Biblical passages where this word is applied by Christian exegesis to the Jewish people, and to have had notably present in his mind the verse of Lamentations iii., "Thou hast made us as the offscouring and refuse in the midst of the people." ' It is clear from this etymology, more ingenious than probable, but to which we ought to have paid a little attention, that in the time of St. Jerome the Semitic name of Nicopolis was [SHEET XVII.] ARCH^OIOGY. 67 pronounced 'Emmaus, 'Ammaus, with the aiii, and that consequently the Arabic form is much nearer the original than the Talmudic Amaoits with the aleph. ' This interpretation of St. Jerome is, besides, an additional proof that, for him, the Emmaus of the Gospels was NicopoHs, and consequently the 'Amwas of our time ; it also shows that the word " Emmaus " was nothing at all to do with Hamath, which is written with a khef, and which some authors want to identify with it.' — C. Clermont Ganneau, ' Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 162. ' Amoas est a mi-chemin de Jerusalem a Jaffa. J'ai fait souvent, a cheval, sans me presser, le trajet de Jerusalem a Amoas en quatre heures et de ce lieu a Jaffa dans le meme espace de temps. Si on tirait une ligne droite de Jerusalem a Jaffa, elle passerait assez pres d' Amoas. ' L'eglise d'Amoas n'est pas orientde ; la facade regarde le Nord-quart-Ouest, par conse- quent les absides sent tournees vers le Sud-quart-Est. TOMBEAU D'UN SANTON A AMOAS. ' Avant les fouilles, cette construction ctait tellement cnsevclie qu'il ctait impossible d'en bien saisir le plan : Quelques belles assises de I'abside centrale et une partie de voute appa- reillee de I'abside latcrale gauche (cote de I'epitre) ctaient seulcs visibles. ' C'est vers cette dernil-re partie que les fouilles furent commenc^es. ' A la profondeur d'un metre environ, I'abside etait entouree de tombes Musulmanes d'un aspect ancien et, dans I'axe de cette meme abside, se trouvait une niche visiblement creusce apres mip. C'est en ce lieu que j'ai trouve le tonibcau d'un Santon, bien reconnaissable au tarhoiiche-Atxv'i^^t traditionnel. 'Tous ces details m'ont fait penser que ce cote de l'eglise avait etc transforme en mosquee. ' Je passe rapidement sur la decouverte de plusieurs tombeaux Juifs creuses dans le roc, pour m'arreter un instant pres d'une construction bizarre, faitc c\ la hate, avec des pierres de dimension et d'origine differentes et contenant, parmi un amas d'ossements humains, plus de cent ampoules dont une vingtaine ont €i€ retirees encore entieres. ' Je n'ai trouve la trace de I'outil des croises sur aucune de ces pierres ; elles me parurent d'ailleurs d'une epoque ant^rieure. Ce n'etait certainement ni Juif, ni Musulman, et il n'y avait pourtant pas une seule croix. 9—2 68 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. ' A quelques pas de ce curieux ossuaire, un ancien four m'a revele comment ont disparu les beaux marbres blancs, provenant des statues et des monuments anciens : tout autour de ce four gisaient de nombreux debris tallies et sculptes, dont plusieurs etaient k moitie calcines : on les employait h. faire de la chaux. ' Les fouilles continuaient ainsi tout autour de I'eglise, qui se d^gageait lentement de son linceul de terre et de debris. ' De nombreux fragments de base, de chapiteaux, de colonnes et d'entablements, des poteries antiques, des cubes de mosaiques de toutes couleurs, enfin tout ce qu'on trouve, en Palestine surtout, dans les anciens monuments, mais jusque la, pas une seule inscription. ' Nous fumes plus heureux vers I'abside laterale droite (cote de I'^vangile), ou des signes indicateurs nous firent redoubler d'attention. INSCRIPTION HEBREO-SAMARITAINE, TROUVEE A AMOAS. ' C'est li que fut trouve le curieux chapiteau ionique portant les deux inscriptions dejk publiees par Monsieur I'Abbe Barges, kquij'en avais fait parvenir un dessin et un estampage, par les soins de Monsieur le Camus. ' Monsieur Clermont-Ganneau en avail ^galement regu un dessin, et, bien que les carac- teres fussent tres imparfaits, il les dechiffra sans hesitation. ' La plus remarquable de ces inscriptions est Hebreo-Samaritaine, elle occupe deux lignes sur une tablette divisfe, dans sa longueur, par une rainure. Cette tablette fixee avec inten- tion, entre les deux volutes, par deux queues d\irondes simul(^es, prouve que I'inscription etait prevue dans I'arrangement du chapiteau. ' Pour faciliter la traduction, je place les caracteres Samaritains sur une seule ligne, avec les caracteres Latins correspondants au-dessous, mais k rebours ; les ^critures Semitiques se lisant de droite k gauche. ^L^'^L 5^=9'*' 7511 &r.c(eraSm^ri/^n. ilLWHL WMCH KWt\B cmaen^nomi.:- [SHEET XVIl] ARCHEOLOGY. 69 ' En retournant les lettres Romaines dans leur sens, de gauche a droite, on a BRWK CHMW LHWLM. Chaque lettre Semitique non suivie d'un akf, d'un ia ou d'un van, ayant la force d'une consonne jointe a une voyelle muette, on doit lire ainsi : 'BaROUK CHeMO LHeOLaM. ' qie'il soit beni son nom a jamais ' On remarquera que, sur la tablette, a la fin de la premiere ligne, la place manquant pour finir le mot CHAfO, on a du reporter la lettre finale k la deuxieme ligne et placer un point immediatement apres cette lettre, pour I'isoler du mot suivant. ' Trois lettres Samaritaines ne correspondent pas entierement a celles de I'alphabet Remain : ' 1°. Le vau qui se prononce OV ti 0, je I'ai traduit par le double V IV. ' 2". Le chin qui a la valeur du CH. 'EI2 ©EO2 UN SEUL DIEU. ' Voici le sens complet de I'inscription Hebreo-Samaritaine : ' U/i seid Dteu, que son no in soit bent a Jamais ! ' 3". Le hain, que les Arabes prononcent fortement du gosier ; ce dernier n'ayant aucun caractere correspondant, je I'ai represente par H. ' Maintenant, h. qui attribuer le desir exprime ? car ^vidcmment la phrase n'cst pas com- plete : qui son nom soit beni d, jamais ! ' Nous aliens trouver ce complement en retournant le chapiteau qui posscde une autre inscription sur sa face opposee, ' La surprise est extreme pour un archeologue : a la place de la tablette, nous avons ici, entre les volutes, une sorte de coquille sur le pourtour de lacpelle on lit une inscription Grecque du bas Empire. ' Nous sommes done en presence d'une sentence cxprimant une seule pensee, \ I'aide de deux differentes langues, avec les caracteres propres de chacune d'elles. ' L'inscription est de basse epoque ; cela est certain. M. Clermont-Ganneau possede les preuves de I'emploi de cette forme, du III"' au VI"" siecle. 70 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. ' Sans cette preuve archeologique incontestable, j'avoue que je serais fort embarrasse pour la date du chapiteau : son dessin original depasse tout ce qu'il y a de plus osi\ dans les specimens de ce genre. Mais dans ces contrees, ou tant de grands peuples ont impose leur mode d'architecture, sans cependant pouvoir exclure completement I'influence locale de certains details, il n'est pas possible d etablir une date absolue sur un simple fragment. ' En ce qui concerne ma specialite, depuis dix ans que je creuse le sol en Palestine, j'ai acquis la conviction que la decadence de I'art y a precede I'occupation Romaine. Dans les plus anciennes ruines, je n'ai trouve, jusqu'a ce jour, qu'un seul chapiteau corinthien k peu pres pur ; mais j'ai rencontre des chapiteaux composites anciens, d'une liberte de dessin et de proportion que les sculpteurs Romains n'ont pas depasse. ' Que penseraient les archeologues d'Europe de I'emploi de I'ogive dans un pont Remain ? et cependant cela est. Sa patine et la forme de I'appareil Romain ont un caractere trop accentue, pour qu'on puisse admettre la possibilite d'un raccord invisible. ' Par opposition, on trouve des details de sculpture et d'architecture, du ix™^ au xii™' siecle, d'une facture etrangere a leur epoque. ' L'importance archeologique de la decouverte d'Amoas est surtout dans la date, presque certaine, que I'inscription Grecque donne h, la Samaritaine. ' Qui aurait pu croire a I'emploi des caracteres Machabeens sous la domination Romaine, et cela simultanement avec la langue Grecque ? II devait certainement y avoir la une inten- tion sp^ciale. ' Le chapiteau d'Amoas est en marbre gris-clair ; le ciseau qui I'a taille n'etait pas tres habile et, malgre sa forme basse et allongee et ses deux volutes, il est d'une parente assez eloignee du chapiteau classique de I'ordre. ' Sous le lit de jonction avec le fut il porte, comme signe d'appareil, la lettre 6", laquelle, en chiffre, c'quivaut au nombre VI. ' On pent supposer, de lii, que ce couronnement peut etre le sixieme de sa colonnade. ' Mais il se pourrait aussi, d'apres la tradition de I'appareil monumental, que I'ensemble de I'ordre ait ete numcrote ainsi : La base n" i ; le fut n" 2 ; le chapiteau n" 3. — Pour la deuxieme colonne — La base n" 4 ; le fut n" 5 et le chapiteau n" 6. ' Les deux hypotheses pourraient admettre un monument comm^moratif, dont les chapiteaux, ornes de pieuses sentences, auraient supporte un entablement, avec I'inscription principale dans la frise. ' Peut-etre encore n'est-ce qu'un simple abaque isole, reposant sur une courte colonne et devant servir k quelque pieuse ceremonie. ' Cela expliquerait parfaitement I'inscription. ' Mais toutes ces suppositions sont vaines ; il faut attendre la fin des fouilles, pour savoir s'il existe d'autres documents arche'ologiques relativement a la mysterieuse pierre d'Amoas. ' Puisque j'ai dit mysterieuse, je dois necessairement presenter les raisons qui me portent a penser ainsi. Pour cela, il est indispensable de faire une rapide description des anciennes constructions. ' L'eglise Romaine, bien reconnaissable a son superbe appareil, dont les blocs mesurent trois metres en longueur, 8.90 en hauteur et 0.60 en largeur, n'a conserve que ses trois absides. Toutes trois ont une forme circulaire k I'interieur ; mais, a I'exte'rieur, les absides laterales sont carrees et I'abside centrale mi-octogone. ' L'ensemble du monument couvre un espace de vingt et un metres de large et trente-sept de long, c'est-ii-dire sept cent soixante-dix-sept metres de surface. [SHEET XFJI.] ARCHEOLOGY. ' Les Croises, en reprenant cette construction, n'en ont pas suivi le plan priniitif ; ils n'ont utilise? que I'abside centrale, en lui accolant una nef unique, divisee en quatre travees, avec contreforts ext^rieurs, aux points de la poussee des voutes. Cette nef se termine par un porche, qui abrite la porte principale. ' Les murs lat^raux de I'dglise Romaine ont ^te dernolis, pour servir aux basses oeuvres des Croises. Mais les deux absides latdrales ont et^ conserv^es, soit pour servir de contreforts k I'abside centrale, soit par respect pour un pieux souvenir. ABSIDE SOUTERRAINE D^COUVERTE A AMOAS. ' L'ceuvre des croises, reliee h la construction Romaine, se reconnait facilcment aux stries diagonales laiss(^es sur les pierres par I'outil de I'ouvrier. Cette importante de'couverte de la maniere des Crois& appartient h M. Clermont Ganneau. ' D'aprt;s cet aper^u, on comprend que les constructcurs, ayant abandonn^ les absides laterales, n'ont pas cherch^ ce qu'elles pouvaient contenir en sous-sol. C'est prccisement pr^s d'une de ces absides, celle du cote de I'evangile, que le chapiteau a ete ddcouvert. ' Ce qui rend inexplicable la jonction des deux eglises, c'est la naissance d'une seconde abside, qui, si clle avait 6tc continuce, se scrait enclavee dans I'abside Romaine et I'aurait masqu^e. Cette intention, qui n'a pas meme ^te essayee du cote de I'epitre, parait avoir trouve des obstacles d^s son originc. 72 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. ' Cette partie de I'edifice avait ^te la jilus maltraitee, plus encore par la main brutale des d(^molisseurs que par le temps. ' L'abside avait eti^ fermee avec soin par un mur d'un aspect presque aussi ancien que le travail des croises, mais d'un appareil de moindre dimension. ' A deux metres du sol, une base Attique, en marbre rose fonce', etait encastre'e dans ce mur, moitie imse dans la construction et moitie en saillie. Une rainure, pratiquee sur les flancs de cette base, attestait sa destination \ ce scellement. ' En Palestine, un grand nombre de pieux souvenirs n'ont pas d'autre indication : un fragment de colonne, une base ou un chapiteau enchasse dans un mur. C'est sous ce signe, dans I'axe de l'abside, que reposait la pierre \ double inscription. ' A, jonction de I'eglise des croises. B, appareil Romain. C, mur fermant l'abside. D, base enclav(^e. E, chapiteau avec inscription. ' Pensant que ce fond de nef laterale ferme avec tant de soin par un mur portant un signal, pouvait receler quelques bonnes indications, j'en pris un croquis cote et, apres avoir fait constater, par temoins, la disposition de I'ensemble, je fis enlever le tout. Je n'y ai trouvd que de la terre, des dt^bris de construction et des ossements humains. ' Quant au chapiteau, on ne voyait que sa face superieure faisant simplement I'office d'un pave. ' Le reste du pavement qui I'entourait etait forme de de'bris de pierres et de marbres, quelques-uns moulines et sculptes ; les interstices etaient remplis par des cubes de mosai'que. ' Un coup de pioche avait de'chausse un large pave, voisin du chapiteau, un surveillant le prit pour I'examiner et vit que le marbre, qui restait scelle, etait tres epais et qu'il portait des ornements et des caracteres sur sa face laterale. ' Je fus appele imm^diatement et je pus, a mon tour, considerer ces etranges caracteres. ' Je remarquai ensuite que ce marbre occupait I'axe de l'abside, qu'il se trouvait sous la base indicatrice, et je pensais que tout cela ne pouvait pas etre le seul fait du hasard. ' D'ailleurs, soit sous le pavement, sois dans la continuation des fouilles, on pouvait de'couvrir une explication de cette double precaution, ayant pour but d'arreter I'attention sur cette partie de I'eglise, or comment replacer ces objets, si on les avait enleve's sans pre'cau- tion? Aussi il m'a paru utile de consigner, dans un proces-verbal, la place exacte du pave- ment et de la double inscription. ' On ne pent pas pe'cher par excbs de prudence dans des recherches aussi serieuses et, sur ce sujet, les personnes qui sont interess^es dans la question doivent surtout ^viter I'ironie, parce qu'elle est un indice certain de la passion. ' Les portions les plus importantes de I'e'glise d'Amoas n'ont pas encore e'te fouillees. Ce sont : le tour poste'rieur des trois absides, I'interieur de la nef des croises et I'interieur de l'abside Romaine.'- — Les Missmis Cat/wliques, le 3 Mars, 1882, 'Rapport par le Capitaine Guillemot sur Emmaus.' Captain Guillemot is directing the work with much zeal and intelligence, and several ecclesiastics had come from Jerusalem to view a discovery which they suppose will supply a perfect proof of the truth of a religious tradition to which I shall refer later on. In default of photographs I must give a short description of it. Unluckily the photographs I took with the gelatine bromide process proved very imperfect when I developed them at home. Doubtless the plates were injured by the over- {SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 73 turning of the carriage. But I shall be able to replace them directly I go to Jerusalem, as the monument has now been transported to Bethlehem. It consists of a capital of white marble in false carved Ionic style, coarsely and irregularly sculptured. On one side between the two traditional volutes is a cartouche in form of a titultts, having to the right and t'le left the two little side pieces which it is supposed to be fixed by. On the cartouche is an inscription written in two lines, separated by a horizontal stroke and engraved in Arch iic Hebrew (that is to say Phoenician) characters. It can easily be deciphered °!^^'^"!^^^ " Bless d be His Name for ever !" It is exactly the reading which I had suggested from the imperfect copy of the inscription sent to me on its first discovery, but from that I could only give my intuitive conclusion, and I felt a certain doubt as to its accuracy. On the other side, dis- posed in a circle, is the inscription G SO GCOCsI? 6dg — "There is one God." Finally I discovered a large mason's sign, on the part intended to be placed downwards on the top of the shaft of the column. It is a sort of ^ and I suspect it is more likely to prove a numerical letter. To complete the description ot the capital, I soon found on one side an eight-pointed star contained in a circle ; and on the other side a sort of " fasces " tied with a band. ' The capital was found in the pavement of the left hand side amongst other miscellaneous remains, used in like manner for paving this part of the building at some epoch which it would be well to know. ' The formula sT; &ih;, though it may be equally well applied as a general dogma of any one of the three great monotheistic religions, is in this form essentially Christian. It occurs very frequently in the stone inscriptions of Syria, where it was apparently very popular. Probably it was from there that it passed into the creed of Islam. A glance at M. Wadding- ton's Greek and Latin inscriptions in Syria, shows us how frequently it occurs either laconically, as in the present instance, or else accompanied by words which more precisely define its scope- 'As examples I may cite the following : — On the lintel of a door at Oum el Jemal (Nabat) — Els + iihi with the cross. On another lintel at Dana (Antioch) — Etg koi %ai [6] X^i(fTO{ durou xa! to uyiov rrniij'j.a,, QoriirjTu — (of the year 483). On a lintel at Kokanaya (Antioch) — Ei; Qihg xal X^iarog (of the year 318). On a lintel at Katoura (Antioch) — 'I'/ldoii XoiSTs, (SorjOi:, slj hog /j-ouog (of the year 331). On the doors at Dellouza (Carriotide and Apamena) — + E(S Ssog VTTi^, etc. On a lintel at Dcir Seta (Antioch) — Elg dihg fSori Ouiv 'irueiv (of the year 41 1). At Domcir (Damascus) — ET; Sthg 0 [3]oii {>ri[v\. VOL. III. in 74 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. At Dama (Trachonite) — El; klc, 0 jSoti To (3iir.. At Salmeustha (Batan) — eTs 6iis 0 |3o>5^o[s]. At Oum-er-ruraman (Nabathoean) — Els ^[«;]. At Deir el Meyas (Nabathsean) — [eI;] koi 0 /3o[})]^ [wv]. At Bastra (Nabathtean) — Etj Sihi navog [ ] 'A/irj'J. ' It would be easy to multiply examples of this formula. I will conclude by citing Sinaic inscriptions, one of Jezzin (region Sidon), another of Cyprus (Golos) — an amulet belonging to M. Peretie, with sT; dio; o vixuv %a%a. — and especially an inscription at Arzouf-Apollonia i'lg hog 0 ^c afxapT£ojv (vv o Kvpiog ytjvo y |g a] ^ ^FeeO broken away. A curious feature of this tomb is the cruciform cutting on the back wall, as shown in the elevation ; and there is a rock-bench close {SHEET XVJI.] ARCHAEOLOGY. 99 to a pier of rock supporting the roof on the left near the back of the tomb ; the object of this bench is not clear. In this tomb are remains of a stone mill, a cylinder 2 feet high, \o\ inches interior diameter, 2 feet exterior, with a hole in the side 7 inches by 10 inches ; there is also a millstone, and remains of the piers of an oil-press. On the top of the Tell are fine olives, modern graves, and some troughs sunk in the rock, 6 inches deep and 2 feet in diameter. On the west, lower down, are two closed tombs, Nos. 26 and 27, and another, No. 28, which is a square chamber. No. 29, further north, is closed, and near it are five others, making a total of 34 tombs found in the sides of the hill. In addition to these, No. 35 is a tomb under the Sheikh's house in the village, a square chamber with a bench round three sides, now used as an oven ; while No. 36, under another house, is like the last, but has a bench only on one side. The houses stand on low scarps of rock in which these tombs are cut. Five groups of springs have been enumerated, but the most interesting is on the west, beside a road which crosses the Tell. It is called el B irk eh, and issues from a chamber in a rocky scarp into a tank cut in rock, with a rocky wall in front, the scarp facing west- wards. The tank measures 1 1 feet by 7 feet, and the rock-wall is 3^ feet high. A pomegranate tree grows above, and numerous hollows are sunk in the rock at the top of the scarp above the cave, perhaps to rest the pitchers in when filled. This pool possibly represents the ' pool in Gibeon ' (2 Sam. ii. 13), where the followers of Joab and Abner met. There is a large masonry tank 59 feet long, 36 feet wide, filled in with earth, near the great spring above described ('Ain el Belled), but it does not seem to be very ancient ; and the careful examination of the whole site of Gibeon, above recorded, leads to the view that the pool called el B irke h, south-west of the modern village by the main west road, is that mentioned under the same name in the Bible. The remaining springs are 'Ain el Asafir 'the bird's spring,' north-west of the village, and 'Ain el M a 1 h a h, a small supply of salt water, by a fig-tree just east of the village. There are some other tombs lOO THE SURVEY OF WESTERN FALESTIAE. north and west of the village, and, on the other side of the valley to the east, there are two, one blocked, the other with two benches and a sunk lociilus. On the south side of the Tell are many M e s h a h e d, or heaps of stones piled into a pillar and whitewashed ; this is because they are in view of the mosque of Neby Samwil on the hill above. In the village itself are remains of a small Crusading church like that at Taiyibeh (see el Khudr, Sheet XV., Section B.). The west wall is complete, with a round window. The masonry resembles that at el Khudr. The total length of the chapel appears to have been 40 feet east and west, 22 feet north and south. The apses have been apparently built up. There were three bays of arches, and in the side walls are small doors with lintels ; these doors are now closed. This building is on the west of the village, and inhabited as a house. There are other remains of ancient masonry built into the walls. Revisited June, 1881. Jibia (L s). — On a high hill are foundations, a sacred place, a very large tree, and well. It is a very conspicuous site — a conical Tell. El Kabu (L u). — By the spring, beneath the village, are the ruins of a church. The building is 40 feet by 25 feet inside, not including the eastern apse, 25 feet diameter. The walls are exteriorly of good ashlar. On the interior it is rougher, being originally cemented. The exterior stones are 2 to 3 feet long. Half-way up the wall is a saxu ik" ''''''' ^ ^ ^ course of very small Stones. Ten courses remain, to the spring of the vaulting, which appears to have been groined, and supported on interior pilasters dividing the church into two bays. The height of the walls is some 1 5 feet, and their thickness some 7 feet. The arches were pointed. The bearing of the church is 1 1 7°. The building appears to be of Crusading date. Visited October 18, 1873. Kabur el Beni Israim (N s). — These curious rude stone monuments lie on a plot of open ground, and are five in number : {SHEET XVIL] ARCHEOLOGY. lOI NO. LENGTH. BREADTH. I. 1 76 feet - 14 feet 7 inches - 58° 2. 142 feet - 9 feet 6 inches - f 3- - 105 feet 6 inches - 2 2 feet - - 30° 4- - 98 feet 6 inches - 1 6 feet - - 24° 5- - 1 13 feet - 10 feet 6 inches - 37° The height of the monuments varies from 3 to 6 feet. They are con- structed of stones undressed piled rudely in courses. The largest stone measured was 3 feet 6 inches high, and 3 feet 8 inches long. The walls must be 5 or 6 feet thick. No mortar is used. These buildings probably contain chambers, one of which in No. 4 was entered. It was 14 feet 6 inches long, 5 feet broad, with walls 5 J feet thick, and an entrance on the south-east. It is roofed in with stone slabs 7 feet long laid across. At 1 6 feet from the south wall of the same struc- ture is the centre of a circular chamber 6 feet 8 inches diameter. The rectangular chamber was 4 feet high, and over its slabs small stones were packed in to a thickness of 2 feet. Small stones are packed between the larger in the walls. I02 THE SURVEY OF UESTERN PALESTINE. The monuments have an appearance of antiquity, and most resemble the drystone vineyard-towers of the country, which are of evident an- tiquity. A group of large stones, somewhat like a fallen dolmen, was observed south of them ; but this may be natural. Visited and planned January 22, 1874. These structures were first observed by Captain Newbold, and described in. the Athenccum of 1849, p. 491. They are thus described by Robinson, ' BibHcal Researches,' 1852 : ' There are four of these structures, merely long low rude parallelograms of rough broken stones, laid up with no great regularity. The largest is 102 feet long by 21 feet broad; the next has a length of 98 feet. The average height is from 3 to 5 feet, except where the ground is less elevated. About the middle of the eastern side of the largest is a square hole or doorway leading to a small square chamber covered with longer stones. Towards the south end of the same parallelogram is a small opening like a well, extending to the ground. The other structures are smaller : and have neither chamber nor well. The work is all of the rudest kind. There is nothing about them to suggest the idea either of sepulchral monuments or of any remote antiquity. They are such as the Arabs may well have thrown together in no very distant times ; but the purpose of them is inexplicable.' — Robinson, ' Biblical Researches,' p. 287. Mr. Tyrwhitt Drake's account of them is as follows : ' On the side of the Wady north of el Heymeh and opposite to it are five constructions of peculiar form, consisting of a double wall forming a parallelogram from 98 to 176 feet in length by 9I to 16 feet in breadth ; the height varies from 3 to 6 feet. The interior is formed of a mass of loose stones of various sizes. The walls are composed of rough stones, some- times of great size, packed with smaller ones to render them more even. No mortar is used. In one of them a square chamber is to be' seen, and also a kind of cist. Doubtless such cavities exist in the others, and I hope before leaving Jerusalem, if the weather allow of it, to make some excavations with the object of discovering their character, whether sepulchral or not. ' Dr. Robinson's account of these curious mountains ("Later Biblical Researches," p. 287; ed. 1856) is very incorrect, and unworthy of his usual shrewdness. He says, after various wrong measurements and details, " they are such as the Arabs may have thrown together in no very distant times." To me, the rude massive character of the constructions and their disposition give them an air of great antiquity. Lengthwise they lie, generally speaking, north-east and south-west, but the direction varies in each. Among the people they are known as the Kabur Ben' Israim. When I first heard this curious form I had it repeated, and then it was put in the more usual way, Kabiir Beni Israil, but the former was given me by three separate individuals. They are also known as Kabur el Amalikeh.' — 'Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 78. El Kadeirah (N s). — A few houses, inhabited during the olive harvest. Kebara (L t). — Large heaps of stones on a knoll above the main road ; perhaps, as the name signifies, an ancient kiln. [SHEET XVII.] ARCH.EOIOGY. Kefireh (L t). — Foundations, terrace-walls of large stones, a building 300 feet by 100 feet, on a hill, surrounded by olives. The site (see Chephirah, Section A) is very conspicuous — a fortress, with rocky scarps and terraces, and with an olive-grove below. An old road with rude side walls leads to it. Each terrace rises 6 to 1 2 feet, and there are traces of an old ascent. The stones in the principal building are about 2 feet long, with rustic bosses projecting about 4 inches. Millstones and well-mouths cut in stone also occur. Kefr Nata (N s). — Walls, cisterns, and a Mukam. The ruins do not appear to be very ancient. Kefr Rut (K s). — Remains of ancient ruins, extending over a con- siderable area. A tree grows among the ruins, and there are stones belonging to an ancient olive-press 7 feet high, 3 feet cross-section, with grooves down the sides. There are foundations of good-sized masonry, and to the north a ruined Mukam called el Huriyeh or Umm Rtish. Visited April, 1873. Kefr Shiyan (L s). — A large tank exists here under a building. There are rough vaults of large and small masonry mixed ; some of the stones are drafted. To the east are rock-cut tombs. El Keisaraniyeh (M u). — Traces of ruins, a rock-cut tomb — no loculi visible. El Keniseh (J s). — Foundations and traces of ruins. Keniset er Rawat (M u). — There is here a subterranean Greek church, reached by 20 steps, containing some pillar shafts and remains of tesselated pavement. Above this are ruins which have stones dressed with the diagonal dressing, probably part of the Crusading church of the Angelus ad Pastores. A Latin altar stands among these ruins. The chapel measures 30 feet east and west, by 20 feet north and south. It has three apses on the east, the middle one 10 feet in diameter. Remains of old frescoes exist in the apses, representing the Virgin and child, etc. The floor and walls are partly cut in rock. There is a poor modern screen, and modern Greek pictures. On the south side two windows are now blocked up with debris. Four capitals stand on the floor, one being of Corinthian order; they are probably mediaeval. In 18S2 the stones THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. were being collected above for building purposes. The plot of ground is covered with olive trees, and is in an open arable plateau, commonly called the Shepherd's Plain. El Khan (J u). — A few heaps of stones by the main road. Khan Mi ska (L s). — Remains of a hostel; a tank with pointed arches. Some of the masonry is drafted. Khan er Ram (M s). — Vaults belonging to a small ruined hostel not apparently very ancient. (See er Ram.) El Kharubeh (J s). — Traces of ruins. Khiirab eth Thureiya (K u). — Foundations, K h li r b e t 'A b b a d (J u). — Caves, cisterns, heaps of stones, ruined foundations, and pillar shafts and bases. K h li r b e t el 'A b d (K u). — Traces of ruins. K h li r b e t A b e r j a n (L s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet el 'Abhar (L u). — Ruined watchtower, and traces of walls, apparently ancient. The masonry of stones 2 feet to 4 feet long, drafted with a rustic boss. Khurbet Abu 'Adas (L u). — Large stones and traces of ruins. Khurbet Abu 'Atrah (M u). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Abu B u r e i k (M u). — Traces of ruins, walls, two pillar shafts, and a small modern watchtower. Khurbet Abu Fureij (K s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Abu Hueilan (N t). — Heaps of stones, apparently modern. Khurbet Abu K u 1 e i b e h (L u). — Ruined walls and a well. Khurbet Abu Leimun (M t). — Traces of ruins in an orchard, with a spring. Khurbet Abu Makireh (N t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Abu M a s e i r a h (N t). — Ruined walls. Khurbet Abu M u h a m m e d (L t). — Heaps of stones on a high hill. {SHEET XVI i:\ ARCH^OLOG V. 105 Khurbet K hurbet Khurbet Khurbet Khurbet Khurbet Abu Abu Abu Abu Abu Rus Sad Slid (N s). — Heaps of stones. (N t). — Traces of ruins, (L u). — Traces of ruins. S u wan (N t). — Heaps of stones. Z a r u r (L s). — Traces of ruins. Ad as eh (northern) (Ms). — A mound with heaps of stones. Visited 20th February, 1882. ' On the south side of this ruin especially much work has been expended on the rock. In many places the cutting appears to be due to quarrying, but as the rock scarps are almost entirely hidden by soil, it is difficult to speak with certainty. In some places, however, the cutting was no doubt effected for the entrance to a tomb, as for ^'^^^fP^ instance that shown. It seems probable that both a quarry and a cemetery exist on this slope of the hill. The entrance to one tomb is visible, but is closed with rubbish. No doubt many others have been cut in the vertical rock surfaces in the quarry, which extends roughly over an area 100 yards east and west, by 50 yards north and south. On the west of the hill near the top is a cutting in the rock 7 feet by 3 feet 6 inches by 3 feet 6 inches deep. This is too large to be a rock-sunk tomb, and a channel leading into the cutting shows that it has been used for collecting rain water. A well cut hollow in the rock, 10 inches across, was found not far distant. On the top of the hill we found the caves shown. They are rock-cut and fairly well executed. They are below the surface of the ground, and one descends to them through a rough rock-cut shaft. On the right-hand side, on entering the larger cave, a groove is cut to receive a door. A bolt-hole is still visible. The caves are partly filled with rubbish, and no ko/ibn or /oai/i were to be seen. 'A tomb was found on the east slope of the hill. At the level of the present surface of the ground are seen traces of a bench on each side, as shown in the sketch. There are a large number of cisterns on the 'Adaseh hill. A small cistern, 9 feet by 6 feet, is cut in the quarry on the south. Near the top of the hill is a large and remarkably well made cistern, shown as a dotted circle in the sketch. An underground aqueduct, 30 feet in length, is also shown in dotted lines. We were quite unable to understand its use. There is no connection between it and the large cistern, but a side passage leads to a second cistern, closed up, of which a small portion is shown by dotted lines. The aqueduct VOL. III. 14 Scole io6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. is cut in the rock to a depth varying from 4 feet at the part nearest the large cistern, to 10 feet at the end. The width is i foot 6 inches to 2 feet. The top is covered with slabs of stone placed across from side to side and covered with stones and earth. The sides are covered with good cement, containing small pieces of charcoal and pottery, to a thickness of 2 J inches. The slabs are removed at the end nearest the cistern, and from this point the aqueduct is entered. The other line in the figure represents cuttings in the rock on the surface. At A part of a cistern is visible. At B is a square chamber, perhaps for collecting water. At a few yards distance we found traces of another cistern, lined with good cement, containing large pieces of pottery and also charcoal. Among the ruins at the top of the hill are the mouths of several closed cisterns, while the fellah who took us round pointed out several other places where he said cisterns had been found and closed up. On the south slope is a birkeh, or reservoir, 51 feet 6 inches by 37 feet 6 inches, partly rock-cut, partly masonry, and near it three large cisterns. On the north of the hill the corner of another birkeh is visible. The sides are covered with earth, so that it could not be measured, but its size must be about 40 feet by 20 feet. The ruins at the top of the hill include the foundations of a building, or tower, 13 paces by 12 paces. Other foundations and heaps of stones are seen all round. Several pieces of columns of pink and grey limestone, and some well-cut stones, show that a building of some importance once stood here. Several wine-i^resses may be seen in the rock surface. We found a piece of tesselated pavement, containing six or eight tesserae, and an ornamented piece of pottery. The ground among the ruins is covered with chips of pottery. 'There are no springs at Khurbet 'Adaseh, the nearest being at El Jib, distant if miles, but the tombs, cisterns, and other indications, show that the present ruin marks an important ancient site.' A. M. M. Khurbet 'Adaseh (southern) (M t). — Ruined walls, a small birkeh about 25 feet by 14, and numerous rock-cut cisterns. Khiirbet el Ahmadiyeh (L u). — Ruined walls. K h r b e t 'Aid (M s). — Heaps of stones, quarried rock, a rock-cut cistern, and on the east rock-cut tombs v.'ith loaiii. Khiirbet 'A i n el Keniseh (L u). — A small ruined chapel is here built on the north side of a scarp and west of a spring. The north wall and part of the apse remain. The walls are 7 feet thick ; the church measures 33 feet east and west, exclusive of the apse, and 18 feet north / and south, interior measure. The true east, outside the apse, is a stone with a rustic boss. The masonry is set in hard cement, and the joints are packed with chips of stone. The apse had a domed roof, and the interior was bearing is 63° The apse 12 feet diameter. The stones in the walls are rudely squared, to 2 feet in len^^th, the faces undressed ; on the [SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 107 covered with cement. There are remains of a small window and traces of a second in the apse. The scarp continues 30 feet east of the church, and the spring here issues from the rock. In the south wall are two recesses, 2 feet and 3^ feet wide respectively. They have semicircular arches of small masonry, with keystones. About 50 feet west of the church are two rude caves in the scarp. Visited October 13, 1873. Khurbet 'A in et Tut (L t). — Ruined walls. Khurbet Aklidia (J u). — Foundations, heaps of stones, and cisterns, Khurbet el 'A kid (K s). — Foundations of houses, traces of ruins, and caves. Khurbet el Alaun (M t). — Traces of ruins, Khurbet 'Alia (L u). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet 'Almit (N t). — Ruined walls and numerous rock-cut cisterns. Apparently an ancient site. Khurbet el 'A I y (J u). —Ruined walls, foundations, rock-cut cisterns. In the valley to the south there are springs. An old road runs on the north-east side of the ridge. Khurbet 'A m r a n (K u). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet el A sad (or Lesed) (K u). — Ruined walls on the hill. Apparently an ancient site of a village, Khurbet 'Askalan (L s). — Traces of ruins, foundations, and heaps of stones. Khurbet 'Attn rah (L s). — Heaps of stones and caves, Khurbet 'Auwad (L s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Ballut el Halls (Ms). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet B a r a d a h ( K s). — Heaps of stones. Khurbet Batn es Saghir (L t). — Ruined walls. Khurbet el Bedd (M u). — Ruined walls. Rock-cut tombs. (See Bir Beit Bassa.) Khurbet Bedd F a 1 u h (M t). — Ruined walls and a cistern. Khurbet el B e d d a d c i n (K t). — Ruined foundations. 14 — 2 io8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Khiirbet Beit Jaza (L t). — Traces of ruins. Khiirbet Beit Jiz (J t). — Traces of ruins and a sacred Mukam. To the south are caves. There are foundations and cisterns among the ruins. On the south-west, in Wady el Kharjeh, are a number of pits con- taining a perennial supply of good water. They are called 'Ayiin el Henu. K h u r b e t Beit M i z m i r (M t). — Ruined walls and quarries. The name of this place was given to Guerin as Khiirbet 'Ain Karim. He also found a Latin tradition that the house of Obed Edom, where the Ark rested for three months, stood here. Khi'irbet Beit Mizza (L t). — Ruined foundations. ' These ruins occupy the upper part of a lofty hill, now under cultivation. The traces of a wall, which once surrounded the plateau, can be discovered. The sides of the hill are also cultivated and disposed in terraces. ... As for the plateau, it is covered with innumerable pieces of broken pottery, and materials of all kinds from houses destroyed. I saw also several threshing-floors or open spaces levelled on the rock ; and beside the last of these, large cisterns cut in the rock, shaped like funnels upside down.' — Guerin, ' Judea,' i. 363. Khiirbet Beit Noshef (K s). — Foundations in an orchard. Khiirbet Beit Shebab (L s). — Foundations. Khiirbet Beit Skaria (L u). — From the main Roman road on the south a path leads to this ruin, situate on the brow, overlooking deep valleys on the east and north. Beside the path is a square foundation I about 50 feet side, of roughly-dressed stones. The remains on the hill-brow are those of a large modern village, with more ancient foundations. One wall consists of stones \\ feet long, 2 feet high, roughly dressed. There is also a mosque, with a portico on the west, sunk below the surface. On the north side of this portico a pillar is placed with a capital of basket-work (see Sketch), like the eighth century Byzantine capitals. The shaft is 2 feet diameter. The mosque door was shut ; perhaps it may represent the site of the church which once stood at this place. (See Section A.) Drafted stones with a rough boss were also found, and another capital, apparently Byzantine. To the west of the site are rock- cut tombs, now blocked. A tree grows over the Mukam, or mosque. Visited 21st October, 1873. [SHEET XVIL] ARCHEOLOGY. 109 Khurbet el Beituni (Ms). — Foundations; apparently a modern ruined village. A cave called Umm el 'Amdan exists near, also a cemented cistern and tombs with bench iocul^\ The cave measures Scale 16 Feet to 1 lucH 50 feet by 25 feet (see Plan) ; the roof is 6 feet from the floor, and is supported by two rock piers, whence the name, signifying ' Mother of Pillars.' A tomb was measured 9 feet square, with a bench round three sides 3 feet wide. The entrance is closed with a wall of masonry. Khurbet Belled el Foka (J u). — Heaps of stones. Khurbet el Biadir (N s). — A garden with traces of ruins. Khurbet el Biar (Ms). — Traces of ruins, heaps of stones ; a rock-cut cistern. Khurbet Bir el 'Edd (K t). — Ruined walls, and rude rock-cut tombs. Khurbet Bir el L e i m u n (J t). — Foundations, heaps of stones, cisterns, and a rock-cut wine-press. Beneath is the Bir el L e i m u n, surmounted by a building about 14 paces square (35 feet), with a door to the north. The walls are some 8 feet thick on the north and south, and thicker on the east. The well is under the floor of the building, of good masonry. There is an entrance, with pointed arch on the north, of moderate masonry. In the north-west corner of the building outside is a stone, drafted with a rustic boss. It is about 7 feet long, and 2^ feet high, the draft 5 inches wide on three sides, 10 inches on the no THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. fourth: a lintel is also built into the wall. In the bottom course, the remains of an ornamented medallion, and of a cross in a circle, are trace- able. There is a staircase leading to the roof in the thickness of the south wall. The building is probably modern, with ancient material used up. Visited May, 1875. Khurbet Bir er Rasas (Ms). — Foundations of rough masonry ; terrace walls ; a cistern, partly rock-cut, with a square mouth ; a small cave, and some broken pottery, Khurbet Bir esh ShafA (L s), — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Biar Luka (M u). — Traces of ruins and cisterns. Khurbet el B li k e i d (M t).— Traces of ruins. Khurbet Bukeid Dhan (N t). — Traces of ruins and cisterns. Khurbet el Bureij (K s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet el B u r j (M t). — A large arched building, a tower, possibly of Crusading date. To the south is a sacred place — apparently a tomb — a sort of platform with drytsone walls, about 20 feet by 30 feet and 5 feet high. (See Khurbet Samwil.) K S 0 to Iff 30 « SO «• 1 1 I I 1 I I i The tower (see Plan) is a very conspicuous object ; the roof is flat above, with a tunnel vault inside. A staircase leads to the roof on the south-east side. The four windows have pointed arches. The building is about 76 feet by 20 feet. The joints of the masonry are wide, and packed with stone shivers. Older ruins of a small town — walls, founda- tions, and heaps of stones — occur round the tower, Khurbet el B u s 1 (K t). — Traces of ruins. [SHEET XVII.'] ARCHEOLOGY. m Khiirbet ed Daly (K s). — Foundations. Khurbet ed Dar (K u). — Ruined house. Khiirbet Dar Mustafa (K s). — Ruined house. KhiTirbet Darieh(K s). — Traces of ruins. A rough wall of flint. Khurbet ed Dawarah (N s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet ed Debeidbeh (M s). — Walls, foundations, and heaps of stones. Khurbet ed Deir (L u). — Foundations. Khurbet Deir 'Amr (L t). — Ruined walls. Khiirbet Deir Dakir (J t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Deir Ibn 'Obeid (N u). — Ruins of a modern village. Khiirbet Deir Hassan (L s). — Traces of a small ruin. Khurbet Deir Kalus (K s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Deir er Rohban (J s). — Foundations, and a very large cistern. Khurbet Deir Sella m (M s). — The ruins appear to be those of a church, but no apse remains. There is a large vault below (Ms). The second ruin of the name (Kt) consists of modern walls and rock-cut cisterns, apparently a ruined village on an older site. On the east is a modern tomb and a rock-cut wine-press. Khiirbet Deir esh Sheikh (L t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet D e i r y (K u). — Foundations and cisterns, apparently an old site. Khiirbet Dheneb el Kelb (K s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet ed Dikki (N t). — Heaps of stones and cisterns; ap- pears to be an ancient site. Khiirbet ed Dirish (K s). — Traces of ruins. Khiirbet ed Dreihemeh (L s). — A ruined watch-tower, with two wells, beside the Roman road. There is a small spring on the opposite side of the valley, south of this ruin. Khurbet Duhy (K u). — Foundations, I I 2 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. K h u r b e t e d D u w e i r (L s). — Foundations and a Mukam. K h u r b e t E r h a (M s). — Heaps of stones. K h Li r b e t 'E r m a (K t). — See account in Section A. K h u r b e t E r z i y e h (M s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet 'Esh-shy (Ms). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Faaush (K s). — Traces of ruins. Khfirbet Faghur (L u). — Ruined walls on a hill. A spring, and rock-cut tombs. The place appears to be an ancient site. Khurbet Faraj (M t). — Traces of ruins, cisterns, and kokiiii tombs. Khurbet Fuakseh (M t). — Traces of ruins. A pillar, 2\ feet in diameter, with a hole in one end, lo inches across, 8 inches deep ; on one side of the shaft a cross is cut, 2 feet 3 inches long, 16 inches wide, and 6 inches thick. A cave exists near, 27 feet by 22 feet, with a single koka, 6 feet long. Khurbet el Ful (J t). — Foundations. Khurbet el F u r r a r i. — A ruin above Bir el Kantarah, and west of it. A cave, some rock-cut cisterns, and rude foundations. Khurbet el G h a s h e i n a (K u). — Foundations. Apparently of ancient masonry. Khurbet Habeik (K u). — A double ruin, with heaps of stones on mounds. An ancient road leads thence to J e b a. Khurbet el Hadabeh (N t). — Treices of ruins. Khurbet el H a d d a d (M t). — A small building of square masonry, roughly dressed. Apparently ancient. Khurbet H a d i d (J t). — Traces of ruins, and rock-cut cisterns. The ruins do not appear very ancient. Khurbet H a d i t h e h (K s). — Heaps of stones. Khurbet el Hafy (L s). — Traces of ruins. {SHEET XVIL] ARCHEOLOGY. Khurbet el Hai (N s), — Foundations and caves. Remains of a hamlet. Enclosures on the hill-top of rude stones, perhaps for threshing floors ; also a large cistern, on the hill-top, with two stone troughs. On the south side of the valley are other caves. Khurbet Haiyan (N s). — There are foundations round the Mukam of Sheikh Ahmed, from which good-sized stones are excavated, and pillar-shafts are obtained by the villagers of D e i r D i w a n. An oak grows by the Mukam. There are three large rock-cut reservoirs called el J ah ran, respectively 36 paces, 15 paces, and 46 paces long. When seen in winter they were full of water. To the south, in the side of the valley, are rock-cut tombs, one of which has a porch measuring about 30 feet wide and 10 feet to the back. North-west of the tanks on a bare rocky slope is a row of eight tombs, all choked up but one, and all apparently much alike. The one now open has an approach like some of the tombs near Tyre ; it is a square chamber with three loculi, one on each wall ; the door is reached by a shaft sunk in the rock surface about 5 feet by 3 feet, and 4 feet deep. The door is at one end of this shaft. North of this is the stony hillock called et Tell, covered with broken stones, and with steep sloping sides. A few wind-stricken olives occupy the flat terrace at the top. To the south the old road runs, and between the road and Khurbet Haiyan there are several cisterns, and a millstone 5 feet diameter. The view from e t Tell embraces the plain of Jericho and the north end of the Dead Sea. Visited January 22, 1874; June 17, 1881. Khurbet el Haiyeh (N s). — Heaps ot stones, ruined walls, a ruined building, and a cistern. The place stands on a Tell, and appears once to have been a village. Visited January, 1874. Khurbet el Haj Hasan (J t). — Foundations. Khurbet Hajeileh (M u). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet el Hamam (J s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Hamdan (L u). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Hamdhal (K u). — Foundations. VOL. III. 15 114 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. K h u r b e t H a m m a d e h (K t). — Traces of ruins. K h u r b e t H a n n a (K u). — Traces of ruins. Khiirbet Harash (L t). — Traces of ruins, a wine-press. In the valley to the east is a small spring called 'Ain el Henu, K h u r b e t H a r a d a n (N u). — Ruined walls. Khurbet Harfush (L s). — Traces of ruins. K h u r b e t H a r s i s (K t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Hasan (J t). — Foundations. Khurbet el Hawa (K s). — Traces of a small village site. Khurbet Hazzur (M t). — Traces of ruins and rock-cut cisterns. Tombs with kokim, one having niches for lamps. There are also two ruined reservoirs, with drafted masonry in the walls, the stones 4 to 6 feet long, the boss rustic. The cement used is hard, and mixed with pottery and pebbles. The site has the appearance of an ancient place. The spring ('A in M a 1 a k a h) has a rock-cut tunnel, a trough, and a niche 5 feet high, i foot deep. Khurbet Hebeileh (L u). — Ruined walls. Khurbet Hellabi (K s).— Ruined walls. Khurbet Hiba (J s). — Foundations. Khurbet Hirsha (K t). — Foundations. Khiirbetel H6sh(L t). — Foundations of rude small masonry and a small pillar-shaft, probably modern. Khurbet Hubin (K t). — Foundations of a small ruined village with a Kubbeh. Khurbet el Hummam (K s). — Foundations. Khurbet Ibn 'Auwad (Ms). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Ibn Barak (Ms). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Ikbala (L t). — Also called Deir el Benat. A ruined convent in the valley, with some fine trees to the west. At the foot of the ruins on the south-east a stream flows over a rocky bed in {SHEET XVII.] ARCH.EOIOGY. "5 81 • winter. The building measures 87 feet east and west, by 120 feet north and south. There were vaults below the building. The walls are standing on three sides, but destroyed on the east. The outer walls are 7 feet 6 inches thick. The masonry resembles that of the church of Kuryet el 'Enab, and is rudely dressed, except at the angles of the building, where the stones are well dressed, and drafted with a diagonal dressing. Some of the foundation-stones along the south wall are also drafted. The arches of the windows on the south wall are pointed, but very broad and flat, with a narrow keystone, A kind of small balcony or machicoulis exists under a window in the north wall. A tower projects on the west and south. The mortar used is good ; the joints are thick, and are packed with small stones in the mortar. A great number of masons' marks were found on the stones (see Plan). There can be no doubt that the build- ing is of Crusading date, probably built about the time of the erection of St. Jeremiah at Kiaryet el 'Enab, For the traditions connected with the site, see Section C, Visited and planned January 17, 1874. Revisited May 25, 1875, Khilrbet Ildsa (L s), — Traces of ruins. Terrace walls and scattered stones. A trough, 7 feet 3 inches diameter, 28 inches deep, 6 inches thick, with an outlet, 7 inches diameter. Traces of an old walled road. A rock-cut cemented cistern. The masonry is much worn. Khurbet Ism Allah (J t). — Foundations. Khurbet el Jamii (L u). — Foundations, and walls surrounding a ruined place, sacred to N e b y D a n i a 1, on the highest part of the hill. It seems to have been a small village. 15—2 Masons Marks ii6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. K h u r b e t J e b i (K t). — Scattered stones on a hill-top. Rough walls, and stones of an olive-press. K h u r b e t el J e d e i r (L s). — Foundations and pillar shafts, Khtirbet Jedireh (J t). — A foundation of good-sized masonry exists here, and a tower 30 feet square, in ruins ; there are also rock-cut cisterns, and three vaults with round arches. The ruins appear to be of Byzantine date. Visited May, 1875. K h u r b e t J e m a h (M t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Jennabet el Gharbiyeh (J u). — Foundations, heaps of stones, and cisterns. Khtirbet Jennabet esh Sherkiyeh (J u). — Foundations, heaps of stones, caves, and cisterns. Khurbet J e n a r (K t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet el Jerabeh (K t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Jeriut (L s). — Foundations. Khurbet Jokhdhtjim (N u). — Foundations and cisterns on a hill. Khurbet Jubb er Rum (N u). — Traces of ruins and cisterns. Khurbet Jubeiah (L t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet el Jufeir (L s). — Traces of ruins. A rock-cut cistern. Remains of an old road. Khurbet el Jufna (L s). — Foundations. Khurbet Junjul (K s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet J li r 1 s h (K u). — Foundations on a high hill-top, ap- parently an ancient site. An old road leads to the ruin. Khurbet el K a b b u s h (L s). — Traces of ruins, and a sm'- cophagiis. East of the ruin a rock-sunk tomb, covered by a stone 7 feet long. Cisterns and jambs of doors occur in the ruins. On the hill opposite to the south is a tunnel, 25 feet long, 4^ feet wide, 3 feet high, found full of water. Visited 27th June, 1881. \SHEET XVII.'\ ARCHEOLOGY. ii? Khurbet Kakul (M t). — Ruined walls, and many rock-cut cisterns, a cave and a rock-cut tomb, also a grave, or lomhts, sunk in the face of the rock. The place seems to be an ancient site. Khurbet Karrit (N t). — Foundations and heaps of stones. Khurbet Kebar (M u). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Kefrata (J s). — Modern ruins of a village, with a Kubbeh. Rock-cut cisterns, and vaults with round arches.* Khurbet Kefr Rasy (K s). — Foundations, cisterns, and rock-cut tombs. Apparently an ancient site. To the south-west are caves. Khurbet Kefr Tas (M s).— Foundations. Khurbet K efr Urieh (J t). — Traces of a former village. A large site, surrounded with springs, and with a Mukam to the west sacred toSheikhNedhir. Khurbet el Kereina (L s). — Heaps of stones. Khurbet Khallet el 'Adas (Ms). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Khallet el Beida (M u). — Ruined walls and rock-cut bell-mouthed cisterns. Khurbet Khallet es Sidr (N s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Khallet et Tarhah (M t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Khamasa (L u). — Ruined walls and foundations of a building, measuring 34 feet north and south, by 36 feet east and west. The masonry is of fair size, rudely dressed. There is also a cave, apparently a cistern. (See Section A, Emmaus.) Khurbet el Khamis (L s). — Caves, and a modern building. The second of the name (Mu), has now almost disappeared. Khurbet el Khan (K u). — Walls, and a tank in ruins by the main road. West of it are some ruined watchtowers on the hill. * This place is called Kefr Tab on some maps, but special inquiry in 1881 showed the Survey spelling to be correct. ii8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. K h u r b e t el K h a r j e h. — A ruin above 'Ain el Kharjeh on the west. A few foundations of rough masonry. K h u r b e t K h a t u 1 e h (K t). — Traces of ruins and caves. K h u r b e t K h e i r (K t). — Traces of ruins. K h li r b e t el K h e i s h u m (J u). — A very prominent hill- top, or Tell, the top covered with ruins, consisting of foundations, heaps of stones, caves, cisterns, and fallen lintel-stones. The place appears to be an ancient site, and the ruins very old, but the masonry is probably of Byzantine times, the caves and cisterns being older. To the north is a rock-cut wine-press, K h u r b e t el K h li d r i y e h (N s), — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Kiafa (J u). — Heaps of stones. K h u r b e t K 1 1 a (J t). — Foundations. Gu^rin found here a subterranean and circular vault, apparently ancient ; the vestiges of a wall surrounding the plateau, and on the side of a neighbouring hill, tombs cut in the rock, K h li r b e t K u d e i s (L u), — Ruined walls and a cave. Khurbet el K u f f (M u), — Traces of ruins. Khurbet el Kursinneh (K u). — A mound of earth. Khurbet el Kuseir (L u). — Traces of ruins. Rock-cut tombs below. K h ii r b e t el K u s r (K t). — Square foundations of good-sized masonry. A rock-cut cistern, vaults, and a cave. The place appears to have been a station on the Roman road. Khurbet el K u s s i s (M u). — Traces of ruins. Two or three rock-cut tombs on the hill-side, and a wine-press. Khurbet el K u s u r (L t). — Foundations. Khurbet el Lahm (L s). — Traces of ruins. KhiArbet el Lattatin (L s). — Traces of ruins. Old dry- stone walls, a few cut stones much worn. A rock-cut tank ; a ruined vineyard tower ; broken pottery. The site is overgrown with a vineyard, but an old road runs by it. {SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 119 Khiirbet el Loz (L t). — The village is in a ruinous condition, the tombs are inhabited, and the locidi broken away. There is an ancient ruined watchtower, with walls and traces of cultivation, about \ mile to the south, and a millstone lying on the hill-side. Khiirbet el Lozeh (L t). — Remains of a small ruined hamlet in a valley. Khurbet el Mahmeh (L s). — Foundations, walls, and rock-cut cisterns, cemented inside. The masonry is massive and rough, the stones much weather-worn, a few drafted with rustic bosses. The joints are irregular, and packed with chips in mortar. Three pillars, 8 feet long, 19 inches in diameter, are lying in the ruin. A square block of masonry juts out of one of the terraces, and in this are three chambers (see Plan) : two on the upper story, one beneath. The lower chamber measures I20 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. 8^ feet by 6 feet inside, and is roofed with very rough slabs, lo feet by 2 feet, and 2 feet thick. The upper-story chambers are 6 feet by 6 feet, and 3 feet by 7 feet inside, and about 2 feet high, roofed with similar slabs. KHURBET MEDEES. 6 feet to 7-| feet long, and about 2\ feet wide, and i foot thick. These chambers were possibly tombs. (Compare Kabtar Beni Israim, p. 100.) Visited 27th June, 1881. Khiirbet el Makhrum (N u). — Foundations, caves, and cisterns, apparently Byzantine work, Khiirbet Malkat-hah (K u). — Foundations, ruined walls, and cisterns, possibly of Crusading date. K h li r b e t M a r m i t a h (K t). — Modern ruined walls. Khurbet el Miterdat. — A ruin a httle north of Khurbet Umm {SHEET XVIL] ARCHEOLOGY. 121 ed Deraj (J t) ; foundations of rough stones remain, and a rock-cut wine- press, Khurbet el Mazar (M u). — Traces of ruins among the vine- yards, north of Bethlehem, Khurbet Medbe s, — Just west of the village of el Jib, Walls, foundations, a great cave, and a cistern with a rock-cut column. The cave (see Plan) appears to be a tomb ; its roof is supported by three rock piers ; it is about 30 feet square, with recesses at the sides, some of which are cemented. In one of these, to the left, the back wall is excavated to form a cross, 7 feet high, 2 inches deep. (Compare el Jib,) The cistern has a central rock-pier, and a cross cut in relief on the rock-roof ; it is 14 feet deep, and 20 feet by 30 feet. Visited 29th June, 1881. Khurbet Meita (L s), — Traces of ruins, caves, and rock-cut tombs, terrace walls, and broken pillars. The masonry seems to have been well cut, but is now much weather-worn. The site is partly covered with olives, figs, and vines. The tombs are rude caves, but have well-cut doors. Khurbet M e k 1 k a (M t), — Traces of ruins, Khurbet Menad (K s). — Traces of ruins, Khurbet el M c r a g h i b (M t). — Foundations of a large building. Old walls and watchtowers, Khurbet Merj el Fikieh (K t). — Traces of ruins, Khurbet el Mesherfeh (J t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet M e z m u r i a (M t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet M i s m a r (K t). — Traces of ruins. On the hill-top to the south-east there are foundations, Khurbet M u r a n (L t). — Traces of ruins, Khurbet el Murussiis (Nt) . — A ruined monastery with a chapel, the foundations only remaining. The building has a total measure of 270 feet east and west on a line 86° west. The width north and south is about 90 feet. The chapel to the east has three apses. The nave 18 feet 3 inches diameter, the aisles 15 feet 6 inches. The length inside VOL, III. 16 122 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. from the back of the apse is 64 feet. The northern aisle is almost entirely- destroyed. Remains of tesselated pavement occur on the floor of the southern aisle. The chapel has an atrium on the west and narrow cloisters on the north and south. In the latter is a well. A tower of later date (S h Ci n e t M u r u s s u s) has been built in the south-west corner of the building, and to the south of this are remains of the cobble-pavement (whence the place is named), in a courtyard the eastern wall of which is visible. The tesselated pavement of the chapel has a simple pattern, red, white, blue and black. West of the building there is a cistern mouth with an octagonal cover, 6 feet 4 inches diameter, or 2 feet side. The 270 . 0' i 1 J \Bu-keti F»aS f> , , , , y 2np FeeC Maltese cross is cut on each side of this octagon. The cover may perhaps have been originally a font removed from its proper place. The cistern beneath is of considerable extent, and has to the north another entrance, with steps leading down. A water-channel runs some 10 yards south- west to a small reservoir, about 10 feet square, which was fed from the larger cistern. One of the stones in the building was measured and found to be 3 feet i inch long, i foot 5 inches high, 2 feet 2 inches thick. The stones in the tower are older material used up ; one had a cross, in a lozenge and square, cut on it. The ruin stands on a hill 500 feet above the valleys, and there are traces of a considerable site and other cisterns of good size. Between the ruin and Khiirbet ed Dikki there is a rude erection which looks almost like a dolmen. Two slabs rest on others, and below there is a small semicircular platform of unhewn stones, and lower down a small natural cave. (See Section C.) Visited 22nd February, 1874. {SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 123 K h Li r b e t el M u s r y (M s). — Traces of ruins. Walls, founda- tions, scattered stones. Khurbet Nabhan (K t). — Ruined walls and part of a pillar- shaft. K h u r b e t en N a h 1 (M t). — Foundations. Khurbet en N e b y B u I u s (J u). — Heaps of stones round a Kubbeh. The latter is modern, with a cenotaph and a vault below, which looks like Crusading work, and is entered by a door on the west having a lintel with an ornamented boss. North of this building is a fine birkeh. The site has evidently been that of a small village. Khurbet en Neda (L s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet en Nejjar (M u). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet en Niateh (K u). — Foundations, cisterns, and stones of an olive mill. Khurbet N i s i e h (M s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet N u h (K u). — Heaps of stone and ancient terrace walls. Rock-cut tombs. The spring ('A in Bint N u h) has a round arched vault above it. The place has the appearance of an ancient site, and is part of the ruin of 'A liar es Sifleh, which see. Khurbet Raba (K t). — Modern ruined walls. Khurbet er Raghabneh (N t). — A square foundation, cisterns, and roughly hewn stones. Khurbet RakCibus (Ks). — Foundations, a cave, scattered stones, and a rock-cut tomb which is choked up. Khurbet e r R a s (L s) (N t).— Heaps of stones. Khurbet Ras Abu 'Aishch (J t).— Foundations, heaps of stones, cisterns and caves. Khurbet Ras Abu Murrah (J t).— Foundations. Khurbet Ras el 'Alweh (M t).— A large rock-cut cistern. Tombs rock-cut and cemented inside, being chambers without loculi. Khurbet Ras el Bad (M t).— Heaps of stones. 16 — 2 124 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Khiirbet Ras el Jur n. — A small ruin, a little north-east of Surdh. Foundations of large stones exist here, and a few tombs blocked with earth. The masonry is of very rough character. Khurbet Ras el Miighar (L s). — Traces ol ruins. Khurbet Ras es Sinobar (L s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Ras et Tawil (M t).— Heaps of stones. A rock-cut wine-press, several rock-cut cisterns, and a cave. Khurbet er Rumaneh (L s). — Terraces and scattered stones. Khurbet Ruwei sun (J s). — Foun- dations and a cistern. Khurbet Sdireh (K u). — Foun- dations on a hill, with a spring below. The place looks like an ancient site. (See Section A, Shaaraim.) Khurbet Sammtinieh (K t). — Square foundations and cisterns. On the hill-top is a foundation measuring 23 feet north and south, 16 feet east and west. It is filled with rubbish. A stone with a draft 3 inches wide was observed in it. About 60 or 70 yards to the south is a rock-hewn cistern, 12 feet deep, 15 feet square. About 90 yards south of the last, and lower down, is an oval cistern, 8 feet by 13 feet. On the inside are 32 niches cut in the walls, probably for beams. Two ,p more broken cisterns occur some 80 yards further south, lower down the hill, and about the same distance arain further o south is a well called B i r e s S a 1 i b, cut in rock, 2^ feet square, with a trough to the west, 5 feet by 10 feet. The hill-top, which is conical, is a very remarkable natural feature. It rises abruptly from a deep valley, and is very conspicuous. SccU^ Cc he iMsed. /cTjoAf of oHecHs only KHURBET SAMMt^NIEH. [SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. Khiirbet Samwil (M t). — Traces of ruins. Walls, caves, and cisterns cut in rock. Immediately south of Khurbet el Burj, forming part of the same site. There is also a large mound, with side walls of dry- stone. It is marked as a tomb on the map, and appears to be a modern Arab grave. Khurbet Sanasin (K u). — Foundations on a high hill-top; apparently a ruined village. Khurbet es Sefar (J t). — Foundations. Khurbet es Selamiyeh (L t). — Foundations. Khurbet Shdb Ailias(Lt). — Foundations. Khurbet esh Shaghrab (M u). — Traces of ruins and cisterns. Khurbet esh Sheikh Ibrahim (K t). — Modern founda- tions. Khurbet esh Sheikh Sdd (K u). — Modern ruined walls. Khurbet esh Shekhetah (K u). — Foundations and rock-cut tombs. Khurbet esh Sherkiyeh (L u). — Ruined walls. Khurbet Shu fa (K t). — Foundations. Khurbet Shuweikeh (J u). — Foundations and ruined walls, caves, cisterns, heaps of stones, and two rock-cut wine-presses. (Cf. Section A, Socoh.) Khurbet es Siagh (K t). — Foundations and cisterns. Ap- parently an ancient site. Khurbet Sir el Ghanem (M u). — Ruined walls. Vaulted cisterns, and tombs. It appears to be an early monastery. Khurbet es Somd (M t). — Heaps of stones; a cistern 14 paces by 4 paces, with a rubble roof ; and a ruined building, apparently modern. There is a remarkable knoll of rock in the ruin, whence the name, * ruin of the heap.' The top of this knoll is surmounted by the ruin of a small vaulted chamber. There are also a few rock-cut tombs on the south-east, now closed. 126 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. K h u r b e t e s S li b r (L t). — Walls of a ruined watchtower, pro- bably modern. Khiirbet Subhah (M u). — Cisterns and stones. There is a curious masonry tomb in the valley beneath, with a stone door still in place. ' A very interesting tomb has recently been opened about two miles from Jerusalem in the direction of Sur Bahir. It consists of a cave in which has been constructed of masonry a chamber measuring 7I feet by 10 feet, with "deep" loculi, also of masonry, on each of its four sides. The roof of this chamber is formed by the rock, which slopes downwards towards the door. The loculi are eighteen in number — eight on the left side (four above four), six on the right (four above two), two at the end opposite the door, and one on each side of the door. They are all somewhat larger than the usual rock-cut loculi, measuring nearly 2 feet by 2 feet. They were each closed by a stone slab carefully fitted, and these slabs have been removed by the fellahin, and are now lying upon the floor of the chamber. On the north side, opposite the door, is the usual bench, also of masonry. The entrance is by a descent of seven or eight steps ; it is closed by a stone door still in situ, and swinging on its pivots, and having a groove on its inner side for the lock. Some of the lead with which the lock was fixed still remains. The masonry is of large well-dressed stones, and the joints are carefully cemented. The loculiis farthest from the door on the western side leads into a portion of the cave beyond the masonry, and in this are ancient loculi sunk in the rock. In one of the loculi remains of iron nails and wood were found, which probably formed part of a coffin. No inscriptions or crosses were discovered upon the masonry, or the lamps found in the tomb, but a cross is rudely cut on the rock outside, and there can be little doubt that the masonry is of the Christian period, an old sepulchral cavern, whose loculi had crumbled away, having been utilized by building new tombs within it. On a hill just above is a site called Khiirbet Subhah, where are several cisterns and large stones. One of the latter bears some rude crosses cut upon it. Masonry tombs are very rare in South Palestine, and the stone door still upon its hinges is unique. It is much to be desired that this monument be preserved from destruction, but there is probably little chance of this, as the stones are valuable for building. The swinging stone door in a tomb of comparatively recent date is of considerable archaeological interest, as showing that these doors were in use at a later period than is commonly supposed.' — Thos. Chaplin, M.D., 'Quarterly Statement,' 1S76, p. 61. Khurbet es Sukker (K b). — Traces of ruins. K h li r b e t S ti r i k (J t). — Traces of a ruined village, springs, with a rock-cut wine-press and cave to the west, and a sacred tree. (Cf. Section A, Sorek.) Khurbet S u w a n e h (K s). — Foundations. Khurbet Suweidiyeh (K s). — Heaps of stones. Khurbet Suweikeh (Ms). — Walls, foundations, and heaps of stones ; pieces of tesselated pavement. (Cf Section A, Sechu.) [SHEET XVIL] ARCHEOLOGY. 127 Khurbet et Tantiirah (L u). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Taza (L u). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet e t Tin (K s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet e t T i r e h (M s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Umm el 'Asafir (M u). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Umm el 'A m d a n (J s). — Traces of ruins. The second place of the name shows a few foundations. Khurbet Umm el 'Adas (J u). — Caves, ruined walls, heaps of stones, foundations and cisterns. Khtirbet Umm ed Dejaj (K u). — Walls and bell-mouthed rock-cut cisterns, with rock tombs, now in ruins. It appears to be an ancient site. Khurbet Umm ed Deraj (J t). — Foundations. Khurbet Umm Haretein (J s). — Traces of ruins, a few rock- hewn cisterns, remains of an olive-press. Khurbet Umm el Jemal (N t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Umm Jina (J u). — Foundations, heaps of stones, and cisterns, with a Kubbeh called Sheikh Heider. (See Engannim, vSection A.) The place is a ruined village, still inhabited as an 'O z b e h by the peasantry during the harvest. Khurbet Umm el Kuldh (L u). — Traces of ruins near a fine oak tree. Khurbet Umm en Neteshah (M u). — Ruined walls. Khurbet Umm er Rujman (K s). — A large square enclosure. Khurbet Umm S arise h (J t). — Foundations. Khurbet Umm esh Sherit (Ms). — Foundations. On the west side of the hill are quarries, and in these a tomb — a chamber feet square, with a bench round the sides and back, about i foot high and 2 feet broad. The chamber is only 4 feet high. Khiirbet Umm esh Shukf (L u). — Traces of ruins. 128 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE, Khiirbet Umm Toba (M u).— An ancient site with bell- mouthed cisterns and ruins of modern buildings. To the east is a Mukam of Neby Toba. (Cf Section A, Netophah.) Khiirbet Umm Tunis (J u). — Cisterns, heaps of stones, a fallen pillar-shaft, much weatherworn. A rock-cut tomb with a round masonry arch to the door. The ruins seem probably Byzantine. K h u r b e t W a d y 'A 1 i n (J u). — Foundations, walls, and rock- cut cisterns. Probably an ancient site. By the road is a small square watch-tower. The road here leading south appears to be ancient. Khiirbet Wady Idris (N s). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Wady Sahyun (M t). — A modern ruined house. K h u r b e t el Y a r m u k (J u). — Heaps of stones, foundations and cisterns. (Cf. Section A, Jarmuth.) Khurbet el Yehiidi (L u). — Traces of ruins and a rocky scarp on the brow of the hill. Khurbet Z a b b il d (K t). — Traces of ruins. Khurbet Zdkuka (M u). — Traces of ruins, Khurbet Zaniid (J u). — This is a large and Important ruin on high ground. (See Zanoah, Section A.) It lies mainly east of the road, but remains are also found on the hill-top to the west. Several chambers with entrances surmounted by round arches are visible beneath the surface. One measured 1 1 feet by 8 feet, with a lining of good hard cement on the walls and on the vaulted roof, which has a round arched section. There are many foundations of the walls of houses ; the stones are much water-worn, and average 2 feet to 3 feet In length. A lintel 6^ feet long was measured. Millstones, small stone troughs, and one of the pillar-stones of an oil-press, lie on the ground. On the south is a small wine-press ; near the road is a rock-cut beehive cistern, and several of the same kind are found In other parts of the ruin. A rude cave-tomb, with three loculi and a well-cut entrance, was observed. A pillar with a Latin cross deeply incised, measuring 12 Inches vertically by 9 Inches across, lies towards the southern part of the site. On another stone are remains of a wreath in relief, such as Is sculptured on sarcophagi. The {SHEET XVIL] ARCHEOLOGY. Stone measures ^^^^ leno-th by feet in height. Voussoir stones also lie among the ruins. In the middle of the site is the modern Mukam of Sheikh Abu Fatmeh, with two chambers and a dome. It is kept very clean, and a small broom and a water-bottle hang on the wall. The walls are daubed with mud, with rude sketches of palm leaves, suns, etc. In the niches of the walls jars and pottery lamps are left as offerings. Visited 4th July, 1881. Khiirbet ez Zeit or Khurbet Harfush (L s). — Traces of ruins. K h li r b e t Z u n u k 1 e h (K t). — Heaps of stones on a conical top ; a ruined cistern. Kubbet Rahil (M u). — A modern Moslem building stands over the site, and there are Jewish graves near it. (See Palestine Exploration Fund Photograph No. 250, and Section A.) The Kubbeh is now a square building, with a court on the east. The original building (as represented in some of the older views) was open, with four arcades (one on each face) supporting the dome. These have been filled in except on the east, where a second chamber has been built on. The original square building measures 23 feet side, the arcades having a span of 10 feet. The height is approximately 20 feet, not including the dome, which rises another 10 feet. The chamber added to the east measures 13 feet east and west, by 23 feet north and south, externally. The covered court, east of this again, has a window and a mihrab on the south, and a double window on the east. On the north is a low wall. The court measures about 23 feet square, and is used as a praying-place by Moslems. The inner chambers, entered by a door, of which the key is kept by the Jews, are visited by Jewish men and women on Fridays. The inmost chamber under the dome contains a cenotaph of modern appearance. A monument on this spot is constantly mentioned from the year 333 A.D. In 700 A.D., Arculphus speaks of a pyramid on the site. In 1 1 72 A.D. Theodoricus calls this place Chabratha — a very old error, arising from mistranslation of the Hebrew rendered ' a little way ' in the Authorised Version. (Genesis xxxv. 16.) The LXX renders the word Hippodrome, whence Rachel is said by Origen to have been buried in the hippodrome of Ephrata. (Cf. Theodoretus as quoted by Reland, s.v. Caphratha, vol. ii. p. 704.) Aquila renders the word m33, ' by the road- VOL. III. 17 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. side,' which agrees well with the position of the present site. The pillar erected by Jacob has disappeared; but there is no reason to doubt the genuineness of the tradition, in which Jew, Moslem, and Christian agree. Rachel's tomb was in the border of Benjamin (i Samuel x. 2), near Bethlehem (Genesis xxxv. 16). Josephus places Rachel's tomb 'over against Ephrata.' (Antiq. i. 21, 3.) In 1 163 Benjamin of Tudela speaks of the monument as con- structed of eleven stones, and covered by a cupola on four pillars. Sir John Maundeville in 1322 speaks of twelve stones. For the curious tradition of the ' field of peas ' see Section C. Theodoricus, who is the first to allude to it, speaks of Rachel's monument (in 11 72) as a pyramid — as in 700 a.d. In 1333 A.D. Isaac Chelo mentions the twelve stones and a stone cupola. In the ' Jichus ha Aboth ' a sketch of the monument is given. (1537 A.D.) It is represented as a square building with arcades and a cupola. It appears probable that the oldest part of the present structure may date back as early as the twelfth century, but the second chamber to the east and the outer court are additions within the present century, at which time also the arcades were probably filled in. Rachel's tomb was visited several times by the Survey party, the latest visit being in May, 1882. ' To avoid the difficulty about Ramah, one writer has placed Rachel's Sepulchre 7iorth of Jerusalem. ' The site, however, at Kubbet Rahil marked out by common tradition agrees well with Genesis xxxv. 16. "They journeyed from Bethel, and there was but a little way (Chabrah) to come to Ephrath," which is Bethlehem. This term has been rated as high as four miles, but as (2 Kings v. 19) Gehazi, being pressed for time, could hardly afford to give Naaman so much start, a mile is more than sufficient, so that the accepted site may be regarded as prac- tically correct. ' The punishment of Gehazi, as well as Elisha's death and tomb, ought (it seems to me) to be put at Abel Meholah. Then " the Ophel " (A.V. tower, 2 Kings v. 24) would be one of theadjacentTellsinthe Jordan Valley.' — Rev. W. F. Birch, 'Quarterly Statement,' 1880, p. 241. El Kubeibeh (L s). — There is a ruined Crusading church in the grounds of the hospice, which has lately been excavated. The build- ing measures 103 feet from the back of the nave-apse to the west wall inside, and 50 feet in interior width. The bearing was 96° 30'. The nave 16 feet wide in the clear, the aisle 11 feet 5 inches. The three apses had each a stone altar still in situ. The church was four bays in length, with piers having attached semi-columns on the sides of the nave, each I foot 10 inches in diameter ; the pier 4 feet square. The apses {SHEET XVI/.'\ ARCHAEOLOGY. were raised two steps, and there are signs of fire on the stones. The masonry of the interior is well dressed ; some of the stones have diagonal dressing ; their size is the ordinary size in such churches. The following masons' marks were collected : ± ^ 4 . I dp o4 ■+ The corner stones outside are drafted. The walls are 4 feet thick ; there are some 10 courses standing in the apse walls. A sarcopJiagiis was found with a double cross on it — probably a bishop's tomb. The place seems to have been important in Crusading times ; west of the village are remains of the old main street, with buildings beside it. Since the fifteenth century Kubeibeh has been shown by the Latins as the Emmaus of the New Testament. Visited and planned 27th May, 1875. El K u d s.' — The account of Jerusalem is reserved for another volume. Kiildt el Ghuleh (L t). — A large detached block of rock in the valley. A small chamber is excavated in it, 6 feet square, with a very small door on the west, \\ feet wide, 2 feet high. There is a channel from the door down the face of the rock, as if to carry off water. (Sec Sketch.) Such chambers are very common east of Jordan. 17 — 2 132 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Kiilonia (L t). — In the valley immediately west of the restaurant is a ruin, to which the name K u s r M e 1 e k el Y e h u d is sometimes given by the peasantry. A vault remains, with a wall of drafted stones, well cut, 4 or 5 feet long, the draft inches and 6 inches wide, 2 inches deep, the face of the boss dressed flat. The walls are 10 feet thick; there is no trace of cement in the interior. The place seems probably to have been a small monastery, of the Byzantine period. Visited 17th January, 1874. Kiiryet el 'Enab (or Abu Ghosh) (L t). — The ruined Church of St. Jeremiah, in the valley, is one of the best preserved specimens of Crusading work in the country. The building is remarkable from its unsym- metrical plan — the east wall is 2\ feet longer than the west. The length of the building outside is 90 feet ; the breadth on the west, outside, is 68 feet. The side walls are 8 feet thick ; the west wall is set back twice in its height, the base measure being 12 feet. The nave apse is 13^ feet diameter, the side apses \\\ feet. The church consists of four bays, with heavy square piers, 3^ feet side. The church has a crypt beneath, occupying the two eastern bays, and having also three apses. There are two galleries under the aisles, 20 feet long, 3 feet broad, running west from the I'^x. u y y T 'f crypt. They seem to have formed a communica- \^ — tion between the crypt and the church above, but they are now much choked up with earth. The entrance to the crypt is now on the north, by a side door, with steps within. In the crypt is a spring, with steps leading down to it from the floor. The nave of the church has a clerestory with windows ; the total height to the roof from the church floor is about 50 feet ; the crypt is 17 feet high, in addition to the 50 feet. The finest feature of the church is the west window of the clerestory (see Palestine Exploration Fund Photograph, No. 153), which is pointed so slightly as to appear almost semicircular. The arches of the door and {SHEET XVII.] ARCH.EOIOGY. 133 remaining windows are of the same character. The vaults are all groined ; those of the nave roof are supported on dwarf columns, or brackets, with capitals of Gothic design, like those of the church of Samaria. (See De Vogue, ' Eglises de la Terre Sainte,' p. 341.) The masonry of the outer walls is extremely irregular, the courses not being continuous horizontally. Small and large stones are used indis- criminately, and the dressing is very rough. * r*\ \> Many of the stones are drafted, especially the vD W V/A Iv corner stones. Well-dressed stones of good \V P size, not drafted, are also used at the corners, ^Trd, |^ and the general appearance is that of a building O reconstructed from older material. The masonry of the clerestory is, however, well dressed throughout. There are buttresses between the windows outside on this story, supporting the thrust of the roof, but this arrangement is not continued on the lower part of the building. The joints of the masonry are very broad, and are patched with chips of stone ; the vertical joints are not always properly broken ; the drafted stones have rustic bosses with a considerable projection. Three or four kinds of dressing are observable, ist. The undrafted corner-stones have a diagonal dressing with a sharp pointed instrument ; in some cases the instrument was used in two directions, giving a criss-cross pattern. 2nd. The smaller masonry in the apse interiors has lines all vertical, cut with a toothed instrument. 3rd. The piers of the crypt are dressed with a blunt instrument, used at right angles to the face of the stone. 4th. Hammer-dressed stones occur on the exterior. The north door has an arch more decidedly pointed than the windows. The door of the crypt has a lintel, with a relieving arch above. The stones used in the vaulting are narrow and well packed together, and laid in mortar. Numerous masons' marks occur on the wall. 134 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. The foregoing list gives an idea of the comparative frequency with which the various signs occur. The Maltese cross is twice repeated on the north-west corner of the outer wall. In the crypt are found other marks. The only mark used on the piers is the hour-glass, or two triangles with apexes joined. Of these masons' marks a maority occur in the Muristan at Jerusalem, at K a u k a b el H a w a, and at Beit J i b r i n — all places dating about 1 140 a.d. This would agree with the arches of the building, which are just of the transition period, between the round and pointed arch. The building is not mentioned in any Crusading Chronicle, so that its date is unknown historically. The interior of the church is cemented, and was once painted in fresco on the cement. There are traces of the nimbi of saints on the apse-walls, and on the north walls various figures : a bishop in a pallium of Byzantine appearance, and architectural and geometrical designs are dimly visible. There are numerous graffiti on the walls, scratched on the paintings. The place was used at one time as a stable, but has been lately cleared out by the French Consulate. Visited 12th February, 1875. Kfiryet Said eh (L t). — Traces of a large building occur in this ruin. There are also remains of a village built in part of older masonry. Cemented vaults of small masonry were found. Part of a lintel with an inscription is built upside down into a wall. The other half is in another part of the ruin. The inscription was written originally on a lintel-stone, 9 feet 3 inches long, 2 feet i inch high, with a cross in a circle in the centre. It dedicates \ .V the building to which it belonged to the Lord, in the name of Martin the Deacon, and the character of the contractions seems to render it probable that the text is not older than the twelfth century. The vaults in these ruins have pointed arches, and the haunch-stones of a groined roof, such as was not used before the twelfth century in [SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 135 Palestine, remains. The Mukam of Sheikh Ahmed is towards the north, near a group of three very fine oaks and two carob-trees, which occupy the crest of the ridge, and are very conspicuous on all sides. The build- ing is modern. A pillar-base has been built in over the doorway on the north side. Ploughs, guns, and other articles are here left by the peasantry for safety. To the west, about 300 yards distant, a small spring is collected in a modern birkeh, measuring 7 paces by 5 paces. This is known as 'A i n K li r y e t S a i d e h, and waters vegetable- gardens extending down the north slope of the ridge. There is another spring on the southern slope of the hill, below the ruins. Drafted stones with a rustic boss also occur in the walls ; and the general appearance is that of a Crusading site with a later Arab village, now deserted. The neighbourhood is very rocky. Visited i8th October, 1873 ; 8th and 13th July, 1881. K lis r 'A 1 y (N t). — Foundations and cisterns. K i! s r 'A w e i s (M u). — Probably a ruined Khan. A ruined watchtower. Kusr el Bedawiyeh (M t). — Ruined house. Kusr el Khudr (M t). — An ancient garden tower with vaulted roof. Kusr esh Sheikh (M t). — A ruined house. Latron (J t). — The ruined walls of a mediaeval fortress on a knoll overlooking the plain. Walls and vaults of good-sized masonry, but of indistinguishable plan, remain. The arches are pointed. On the west are remains of a sloping revetement of undraftcd stones ; large drafted stones lie among the ruins. The modern hovels are built in the ancient vaults. The natives consider part of the ruin to be a chapel. West of this site, near Howard's new hotel, is a rock-cut Jewish tomb, now shown to visitors as the Tomb of the Maccabees (see Section A) ; it has nine koktm. A second tomb exists in the ruins. Guerin speaks of a second wall, below the fortress and on the side of the hill, which formerly surrounded the city properly so-called. Nothing remains of this city, however, except vaulted magazines, cisterns, and wells. Ganneau ('Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 170) mentions a tradition among the fellahin that the place was formerly surrounded by a high wall. He also mentions a tradition that there exists a subterranean passage between Latron and Soba. 136 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Mai hah (M t). — South-west of the village is a cave called El Medbdh measuring 33 feet by 20 feet, reached by a passage 13 feet long by 4^ feet. North-east of the village is another cave (Umm Babein) 37 feet across. On the east is a tomb with six kokini and an outer chamber. On Malhah, its people and antiquities, M. Clermont Ganneau thus writes : — ' I have just made an excursion to the village of Malhah, south-west of Jerusalem, where I picked up a little information not without its value. There is nothing very curious in the houses, except a ruined burj near the mosque. I remarked in the angle of a house not far from it a broken inscription, very faint, perhaps only a flourish. Inside another house I was shown the entrance, now closed, of a cavern, the door of which would have borne an inscription. The approaches to the village, and the little hill which rises before it (same orientation) are filled with tombs cut in the rock, one of them containing fragments of ancient pottery. They showed me a kind of long box in dried earth, with rounded angles, found probably in one of these tombs, full of bones. It measures very nearly thirty-six inches in length, and looks like a small bath. I propose to go and open one or two of those tombs. ' According to a tradition of the Mawaleh, or inhabitants of Malhah, they may be divided into two categories of different origin : the one coming from trans-Jordanic regions, the other from Egypt. 'Their pronunciation is something quite peculiar. It is chiefly characterized by the sound of the long a, which is very full, and closely resembles the sound of 0. ' The water of the fountain, 'Ain Yalo, a little distance west-south-west of Malhah, enjoys a great reputation. The Mawaleh, when they wish to praise it, say that they weighed its water in the Mijan, and found it lighter than gold ; which does not i^revent it from being heavy for drinking. ' The immediate environs of Malhah contain many localities which appear to be of import- ance : for example, Khurbet el Fowagcsi, on a hill, whose terraces in stages can be seen from 'Ain Yalo. A little more to the east is a place called "Q 'la e s S o u n w a n," the '■'Rocks of Flint,'" to which is attached a singular legend. It was formerly an inhabited place ; but the people having drawn on themselves the wrath of God, the whole region was transformed into flint. The sin committed was that the women did not use the bread for the nourishment of their children. I do not see what lurks beneath this story, unless it be some relation with the use of flint by the Canaanites in primitive ages. I shall see when I visit the place if it shows any traces of the working of stone. ' The Mawaleh have pointed out to me, not far from Malhah, three great mounds, on the J e b e 1 e t T a w a g i, west of the village, Rujm Afanil, Rujm Ataya, and Rujm et Tarud. They are probably the three tumuli indicated by Prokesh and Tobler (Topog. 761), on the left hand of the road from Malhah to 'Ain Karim. The D a r li d of Tobler must be my Tarud. I see, too, that Mr. Drake ("Quarterly Statement," January, 1874) speaks of these tumuli, which he names cl x\tyya, el Tarud, and el Barish. ' The position of Malhah, and the numerous tombs which surround it, are enough to indicate that we must look for an ancient locality near it. Up to the present no identification proposed appears either happy or important. The best known is that of Schwarz, which has been generally repeated. Malhah would be mentioned in the Talmud under the form Malkhaya, as the country of a certain Rabbi Jose. From a phonetic point of view this {SHEET XVII.] ARCHAEOLOGY. 137 identification is very well ; but it has no historical value at all, this being the only place where Malkhaya is mentioned at all. Some authors have even doubted the exactness of this otherwise insignificant connection. Thus Neubauer, in the " Geography of the Talmud," remarks that the Talmudic Malkhaya must be looked for in Upper Galilee, because this Rabbi Jose is named in the passage with another Rabbi coming from Sikhnin, a place undoubtedly Galilsean, and he recalls the fact of the existence of a town called Malhah in the neighbourhood of Crcsarea.' — 'Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 160. Mugharet Bir el Hasuta (K u). — This curious cavern under Beit 'Atab appears to have been a gallery leading towards the spring ('A i n Haud) from the centre of the village. It is evidently- artificial, and extends 250 feet, reaching within 50 or 60 yards of the spring. The eastern entrance is a shaft some 10 feet deep, with niches in the side walls, perhaps to assist in climbing down ; 65 feet from this entrance is an old side doorway. The cave is not straight (see Sketch), but the general direction is first 34° for 65 feet, then 6° true bearing for 74 feet, then 71° for 50 feet. The width on the east is 17-2- feet, the height 8 to 10 feet ; the width at the further end is 8 feet, and the height only 3 to 4 feet. The end is here blocked. A few small stalactites occur on the walls, which are roughly hewn. (See Beit 'Atab, Section A.) Visited 23rd October, 1873. Mugharet el Jai (N s). — This is a large cave on the south side of Wady Suweinit. The name is written rather too far west on the Map, and the cave should really be shown on the west edge of Sheet XVI 11. The area of the cave is about 8,700 square feet in all : the branch to the VOL, III. ig THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. east beinp^ about 640 square feet, the passage to the back 1,200 square feet, and the branch at the back the same. The second small chamber in the face of the rock is inaccessible except through the larger cave, and is some 900 square feet in area. The name J a i is probably the same as the Hebrew N'J, 'A place where water collects.' The cave is very dark, and the further parts are low and ill-ventilated. It was revisited and planned on 25th June, 1881, in consequence of the suggestion that it was Scale of Feet - #ff p m VI ao V So io ^o »e 90 KO 1 1 . 1 L_J 1 1 the hiding-place of the 600 Benjamites who fled from Gibeah. (Judges XX. 47.) It was found to be much too small to hold such a number of men. The cave is probably natural. A second to the east, called Umm el Jemal, is inaccessible. There are many other caves in the valley which have served as hermitages ; and a group now inaccessible occurs on the north at El Hosn, resembling in external appearance the hermit caves near Jericho. (See Sheet XVIII., Section B.) ' I have the pleasure to report to the Committee of the Palestine Exploration Fund that I have been able to examine carefully a curious spring of water called 'Ain Suweinit and a large cave of refuge known to the shepherds as Miigharet el Jai, possibly Grass Cave (Jawa), {SHEET XF//.] ARCHJiOLOGY. 139 in Wady Suweinit, both on the souths or Benjamin side of the ravine, the former 450 feet below the Ras el Krein (Migron ?), or eastern end of the Plain of Jeb'a, and about fifteen minutes' descent from the said spot ; the latter 200 feet lower down the cliff, and twenty- minutes or half an hour's clamber from the spring. ' Dr. Chaplin is in reality the author of the search, and was only prevented by illness from accompanying me last week in quest of this spring, and to him any thanks are due for this communication. I have visited the spring and cavern twice ; on the former occasion I was unable, owing to accident, to do more than find them, but on my return to Jerusalem Dr. Chaplin begged me to communicate with you, and feeling that without measurement such communication might be of less use to you, and that much more might be gathered from the inhabitants of Jeb'a about this cave, I spent a second day in measurement, etc. On this second occasion Mr. Salami, the Consul's secretary, accompanied me, and gave most valuable assistance in interrogating the natives of Jeb'a and in taking down the names of the hills, ravines, caves, etc., in Arabic from their lips. Since then he has most kindly inquired into the roots of some of these, and has furnished me with the interpretation of the meanings of most of them that most approve themselves to his mind. ' Both fountain and cave are well known to all the inhabitants of Hizmeh and Jeb'a, but owing to superstitious fear no shepherd, as far as I could learn, has ever penetrated beyond the main entrance of the cave Mtigharet el Jay, or Jai. Our guide on both occasions was an old shepherd, Mhesen Hassan, and he told us that he had been shepherd all his years, and as a boy used the cave for an " ossub " (a sheep wintering-place), but had not entered the main passage. ' The tradition in the village of Jeb'a, we learnt from the villagers assembled, is — '(i) That the Christians used it a long while ago, when God sent an evil wind to destroy them. '(2) That it has been used time out of mind for refuge by the neighbouring villagers when prosecuted by the Government. ' (3) That it extends from Wady Suweinit to Jerusalem. ' As to the size of the cave, the current tradition in Jeb'a is that it will hold 600 men, a coincidence in number with the Bible account of the Benjamite refugees in the rock Rimmon (Judges XX. 47). One man asserted vehemently that it was large enough to contain 6,000, but the number 6 seemed invariable with them. The shepherds asserted that the main entrance cave held 16 flocks of 100 sheep in each. This number I obtained on separate testimony from three or four Jeb'a shepherds. ' As to the time during which the cave is tenanted now, it appears that each winter the shepherds use it as an " ossub " for their sheep, remaining in it from fifteen to sixty days, according to the weather ; that it becomes so hot owing to want of ventilation, that when fine sunny weather comes they are driven from the cave by heat. But it appeared afterwards that want of fuel in abundance and within easy reach is also the cause of their not making too long a stay in the cavern. ' In old days, if one is to trust the derivation of the name Suweinit, from the abundance of sunt, or thorn, or acacia bushes, this latter hindrance to a long stay in the cave would not exist ; the more so that of all the woods used for fuel in this country, the sunt, when grown to size, is considered best by the peasantry. (A story was told me of a man who lit a single branch of sunt (acacia), cooked his food for three successive days by it, left the cave 18 — 2 140 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. in which he was staying for a week, and on coming back found the little log still burning.) But, my informant said, this is only the case if the sunt bush is grown to a good big size. These big-sized acacia bushes do not now exist in the upper part of Wady Suweinit. ^^'e may argue, perhaps, therefrom, that the wooded growth of the valley is not the same as it was in Saul's time. If this is so, we shall not be surprised to find no remains of any pome- granate or rumman trees, such, for instance, as the one under which Saul was sitting in the uttermost part of Gibeah (i Samuel xiv. 2). ' The first question that naturally arises as to the possibility of water-supply for the shep- herds or tenants of the cave el Jai is answered by the custom of to-day. The shepherds who use the cave as a wintering-place (ossub) take their flocks to the spring 'Ain Suweinit, on the cliff ledge to the west, or towards Jeb'a, but if necessary go down the valley to 'Ain Farah and Fowar, one hour and a half down east — both on the southern or Benjamin side ; or from two other springs, 'Ain er R'aian and 'Ain esh Sherar, also down towards the east, but on the northern or Philistine side of the ravine. ' The next question we asked was, the amount of water obtainable per day from the spring 'Ain Suweinit. The shepherd said that twenty goat-skins would empty it, but that if so emptied, it would be full in half a day again. This is a smallish supply, but we may remem- ber that time and want of care must have much choked the basin, and that possibly in old times a great deal more would be obtainable from it. One quotes the Selah Spring, near Solomon's Pools, as an instance of this choking up of a spring, and consequent diminution of supply. ' It appears, too, that just at the point where, after passing over the Plain of Jeb'a, we descend into the ravine to visit 'Ain Suweinit and its one large karoob-tree, there is a large cistern by a well-known fig-tree at Khiirbct et Tineh, which would be within easy reach of the cave Mvigharet el Jai. This is filled by the early rains, and remains full till the end of harvest time, when the farming men finish the supply as they work at the harvest-fields near. ' As to the approach to the spring and cave, the former is easily reached along a good goat-path from the big " ossub," or shepherd's shelter, Khtirbet el Hai (the place of the camping-ground), so called, they say, from the Bedawin use of the cliff near. ' This Khtirbet el Hai is on the brow of the declivity, at the easternmost end of Jeb'a Plain, and from this Khtirbet el Hai, which is capable of affording shelter to 100 sheep, is obtained the best view of the spring and karoob-tree of the Suweinit. ' The spring could, if necessary, be clambered down to from above, but, placed as it is on the slight plateau half-way up the hill-side, above a sheer cliff with scarp below, an approach from the valley to it would be impossible. As to the latter, the cave Mtigharet el Jai, it is reached with comparative ease from the Wady bed by following a goat-path, and for the rest is well placed as a cave of refuge ; for, while communication can be kept up between it and the spring 'Ain Suweinit by scrambling along the rock scarp below the line of cliff on which the spring is situate till within 100 yards of the spring, and then ascending to the plateau of the 'Ain Suweinit and karoob-tree, the said communication could be most easily barred from the direction of Jeb'a or west again, while ascent up the cliff under which the cave is, is possible by a climb close to the cave's mouth. Any descent without rope or ladder to it would be extremely hazardous. ' One other feature about the cave's position may be remarked — its absolute secrecy. It is so placed in a corner of the cliff, and so protected by outstanding ledges, that until within {SHEET XVIL] ARCHEOLOGY. 141 ten yards of it you could not tell its existence as one approaches from the westward or Jeb'a end, while again the adjacent cliff to the eastward, curving out towards the north, would hide it to any comers up the valley from the east. ' Leaving Jeb'a, we cross the fallows of the long eastward-going plain that slopes all the way at a slight angle from north to south ; on our left the deep Suweinit or Vale of Michmash, on our right hand the green open valley of Hizmeh, called, as we proceed eastwards, Wady er Radadeh. ' Approaching the declivity from which we obtain our first view of the Suweinit gorge, we find this Wady er Radadeh, and that part of the plain we are crossing, called el Kharjeh, or " the Going Out." That is, perhaps, the place from which in old times the men of Jeb'a have gone out towards Jordan, or in later days have made their e.xodus as fugitives to the cave of el Jai in time of trouble. 'Arrived quite at the brow of the steep descent to the ravine, we find a large shepherd shelter-place, or " ossub," known as Khiirbet el Hai, or Haiyeh, and from the front of it we can take in at a glance the position of 'Ain Suweinit and the cave in question. ' The eye at once catches two trees, neither of them such pomegranates as Saul once sat under, but both of them remarkable enough to be called The Tree. The first is close by on the hill spur to the right, a fig-tree, some ruins, and a cistern above spoken of, and gives its name to the mountain spur. • ' The second is a dark-coloured karoob-tree, half a mile away, perched on the brow of the precipitous band of cliff that rises from its scarp half-way up the southernmost side of the Wady. This seemingly inaccessible tree stands close to 'Ain Suweinit, and is nurtured, no doubt, by its waters. ' Taking the southernmost side of the Wady, we find it is divided, as far as eye can see, into four main divisions or rounded spurs. The first of these — that is, the nearest to us — is Khiirbet et Tineh (the fig-tree ruin) ; the second is nameless ; the third, el Kuba ; the fourth, el Mukaarat. * By a movement of a few yards to the left we discover a fifth, Ras el Fowar (the head of Farah), that part of the Wady near the Furrar Spring. ' All along the Wady side, two-thirds from the Wady bottom, stands, as if built by the hand of man for the use of a fortress, a slant scarp with fortress wall above it from 30 to 40 feet high. 'There is a plateau or brow upon this grey, steep, running line of fortress rock, and thence to the sky line rugged, rounded masses of rock and vegetation, in some places easily accessible, in other places unclimbable. ' Above this rock and scarp is hill number two. The nameless spur grows the karoob- tree, and the spring is close beside it. Beyond the fourth spur, hid entirely from view by the outstanding spur, at a lower level, the foot of the fortress cliff, lies the cave Miigharet el Hai. On the other side — i.e., the northern side — of the Wady from where we stand is the Kharjeh. ' At the Khurbet el Hai we only seem to be able to distinguish a long unbroken line of cliff, till just opposite el Mukaarat there is seen to be a deep recess in the mountain block, and east of it is a curious leaning buttress, best described as a cone cut in two from apex to base, and laid on to the mountain side. This deep recess is called AVady Habibeh, and the descent from the cliff top to the Wady bed is easy enough down it. The curious projection of half-cone buttress that seems to fill the valley with its grey-rounded mass 142 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. is known as Kurn el Falkain = the " Horn (or corner) of the Two Divisions," and the cUffs beyond to the east have the name of Jebel Oushaish, or " the Hill of the Little Nest." ' It is exactly opposite the quaint-featured Khurbet el Falkain that the cave of refuge for the Benjamites, the Miigharet el Jai, is placed on the southern side; and hence the need of describing the Khurbet el Falkain at length. But the apparently single mountain mass on the north or Philistine side of the AVady, between us and the deep-recessed Wady Havileh, is in reality, as we saw afterwards from near the 'Ain Suweinit, broken up into three masses, the cliff mass nearest us being called el Marjameh, the next Jebel el Huty, and the third Jebel Arak el War. 'Marjameh, or "the Hill of the Stony Place," with its hint of warlike times and pass defence, is separated from el Honteh by a steep recessed AVady or mountain gully known as AVady Rahab, leading up to Khurbet Rahab (the " Monk's Plot "). Here we have a hint of the use of certain caverns that dot this northern line of cliff in mediaeval days. ' But it is noteworthy that this mountain gully, with its cave Hosn or Houson (" Cave of Defence "), is entirely hid from view by a tooth of rock that, like a tower on a bracket, hangs in mid-air at the angle of the rock cliff The next hill's name to the east of Jebel el Huty is known as Jebel Arak el AV'ar. Deep caverns high up on the cliff sides have given their names to both of these hills. But the deep mountain gully dividing el Huty from el AV'ar is perhaps of most interest to any who attempt to localize the scene of Jonathan's exploit, and his climb on hands and knees against the men of Michmash. ' This mountain gully is called Shehab el Huty. A curious natural stairway of rock is hid from all view to men at the eastward by an equally curious natural balustrade. A whole regiment might ascend to the Philistine heights unseen up this Shehab el Huty. One has described this particularly because its position is exactly opposite that of the 'Ain Suweinit ; and if we may believe, as we are told, that the Philistines had come out to the passage of Michmash (i Samuel xiii. 23), we can seem to see this Shehab el Huty accurately described enough in the following chapter (i Samuel xiv.), and can recognise a possible locality for the pomegranate on Migron (i Samuel xiv. 2) in the place of the present karoob-tree that is such a landmark, or spring-mark, in the uttermost of Gibeah — Jeb'a. ' The caverns on this northern side of the AVady Suweinit are many, the principal being esh Shinar, el Hisir, or Hosn, Arak el AV'ar, and Arak Khadaish, the latter beyond Kurn el Falkain, and being exactly described by its name, " the Rock of the Scratch." ' From our point of view of the AVady, we descended along ledges 01 rock, a good safe path even for mules if need be, by yellow furze and variegated-leaved thistles, till we reached the main ledge or brow along the top of the cliff of naked rock that is the feature of this southern side of the valley. Keeping along this for about ten minutes, we reached the karoob-tree and the huge blocks of limestone that seem to guard it on every side with their seven massy blocks (the one east of the tree was 30 feet 18 inches in diameter), ' The spring close by was so hidden by huge masses of the fallen limestone that, but for the shepherd, we should have missed it. Ascending between these rock boulders, imme- diately behind the largest of the masses near lay a little stone cup, about 14 inches by 8 inches. Behind this a small triangular opening, beneath overhanging masses of confusedly piled stone, gave admittance to the spring, which lay at the bottom of a steep rock-hewn and stone-built passage, 12 feet 6 inches from the entrance. Down this, feet first, we slid, and found every stone the whole way polished as smooth and as white as marble. Thousands of [SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 143 feet during a space of hundreds of years alone could have done this. It seemed on examina- tion that the fountain head had been built over in this way : the passage from above scooped out down to the water at this angle, then walled rudely, and two large masses had, it seemed, been made to fall so as to prop each other up overhead, while light was admitted by a side opening carefully protected by stones above, but a little to the west of the roofing imme diately over the spring. ' The basin of the spring had evidently been hewn out of the living rock. The water was fresh and good, but water-leeches lay in heaps in the dark corners. ' No writing, no marks of any kind, were found at or near the spring, and the noticeable features were the apparent concealment of the fountain by the huge natural screens of fallen rock masses, and the evidence of enormous use that the smooth polished stones of the spring entrance seemed to give. As for the karoob-tree, its roots were level with the waters, and its luxuriant foliage and heavy crop of beans told a tale of roots that reached to cool ground and sucked moisture in the driest of weather. ' Leaving the spring, we proceeded on eastwards, round the next two rounded bluffs, el Kub'a and el Mukaaret, to the cavern of Mugharet el Jay. The way was easy for the first fifteen minutes, but we then had to descend the cliff ledge and creep along cautiously on the bare rock scarp. The guide took his shoes off, for it was so slippery that one of the party was forced to turn back from giddiness. ' But in fifteen minutes we had gained better footing and had rounded the corner of the bluff el Mugharet. A vulture flew from her nest five yards above our head, showing the loneliness of the spot. ' But though one cave, built up artificially at its mouth, with an artificially hewn doorway beneath, stared at us half-way up the cliff that faced us as we turned the corner of the cliff, the cave el Jai was not visible. ' The guide beckoned us on past a projecting shoulder of rock, and crawling up the scarp and turning our faces due west, we saw a little low triangular opening in the far corner, with a smaller aperture, a smoke-hole or window, above. ' Entering it over an inclined plane of slippery rock, marked by the feet of last winter's goats, we found ourselves in a spacious cavern, whose chief features were the honeycombed structure of the walls, the overhanging mass of rock that made a pillar, as it seemed, for the roof in the far south-western side, the far-reaching gallery that ran up-hill beyond, due west, the side gallery going away to the north, and the oily blackness of the smoke-grimed rock. * The floor was deep with the dust of ashes of tlie fires of many generations of refugees or shepherds. Our guides shook in their shoes as they were pushed along with the torches. The roof, some 30 feet high, shone glossy black as we measured this entrance cave. Then we passed along the west gallery westward, ascending as we went. A gallery, wide, and high in proportion, turned sharp to our left — that is to the north — and descending as rapidly, passed along a parallel passage back towards the cast. At its extremity a lesser passage, hewn, it seemed, in the rock, gave notice of our nearness to the northern out- side walls of the cliff, for the wind well-nigh blew our torches out. This was perhaps for ventilation sake. Retracing our steps, and finding no marks of man but the oily blackness of smoke and dust of ashes at our feet, we entered a lesser gallery towards the north-west at the top of the hill, and thence retraced our steps to the main entrance cavern. All this way had been spacious enough for tlie living of men ; but 144 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. the gallery with its double entrance — soon after meeting in one beyond the ante-chamber, if I may so call it — that opened south of the main entrance-hall, was not lofty enough to admit of standing room, and this we had to crawl up. ' Returning, we crawled up two short passes to the west of this antechamber, examined a small cave and recess perched on the water-scooped rock near the entrance to this vestibule, and so back into the large cavern and daylight. ' Our feeling about the cave was that it was not so capable of stowing away men as the so-called Cave of Adullam at Khureitun, but that on emergency more than 600 men could hide here if need be ; 300, perhaps, find ample lodging. ' This made me anxious to examine the cavern called el Kub'a or el Karat, that was perched inaccessibly without help of rope or ladders in the cliff 80 yards away to the east, and within easy speaking distance of the Miigharet el Jai, or Jay. The shepherd could only say of it that it belonged to the Christians, and was large, but he added that no man had ever entered it, so his testimony was a little worthless. ' A natural or artificial ledge had at one time given admittance from above to this cavern, and the rough-hewn doorway, reminding one of a rock tomb, below the stone-filled entrance, told of former occupation. ' Looking for the cavern's mouth, we had a fine view of the Kurn el Falkain opposite, with its Wady el Habibeh ('Ravine of the Loved Ones'), the dark low cave of Arak el War, the cavern at the head of Kurn el Falkain, and the cave under the ledge farther east of Jebel Oshaish, known as the Scratch, Khaaisli. We scrambled up the cliff close by with help of a band from above, and so along easily back to the 'Ain el Suweinit, in less time than we had taken to come. Such are the facts as to this cavern. ' I beg to enclose the notes of the names written down in Arabic by my kind friend Mr. Salami, the Consul's secretary. There is only one note that should be added. The two ad- jacent cliffs to this cavern, el Kub'a and el Mukaaret, seem to point, from all one can under- stand, to (i) Detention of an enemy in distress (Kub'a). (2) To (a) a place known as the Place of Caves, the Hill of Holes (i Samuel xiv. 11). (/3) To a place whence loud crying out was made, el Mukaaret. There is a collateral meaning to this last to be found in the name of the valley from Jeb'a to this head of the ravine. Wady er Radadeh, one is informed, means the Valley of the Waller or Crier in Return ; and some traditional hint may perhaps be here preserved of the Benjamites and the cry of peace mentioned in Judges xxi. 13. ' Lastly, one also hears that the word Sanatu means to stop. If this be so, and Wady Sunt, or Suweinit, be derivable from a word meaning detention, this, added to the cliff's name, el Kub'a, with its kindred signification, may perhaps allude to the detention either of Saul and his 600, or of the Benjamites and their 600 men, in the neighbourhood of, if not really inside of, the cavern Mugharet el Jai.' — H. B. Rawnsley, 'Quarterly Statement,' 1S79, p. 116. ' Wady er Rumanian = Vale of Pomegranates. ' El Kharjeh = The Going Out. ' Khiirbet et Tineh = The Ruin of the Fig-Tree. ' Khallet el Hal = The Place of the Camping-Ground. ' El Krein = The Little Horn. ' Wady er Rumman = The Valley of the Pomegranate. ' Wady er Radadeh = The Vale of the Return. [SHEET XVI!.] ARCHEOLOGY. 145 'Note by Lieutenant Conder, R.E. 'This cavern is shown on the Survey map. The view of the Valley of Michmash ("Tent Work," vol. ii.) includes the cliff of El Hosn, described in the present paper, on the north side of the valley. ' A few remarks may be added as to the Arabic names collected, which appear to be all descriptive. Many of them occur only in the Survey lists, and from want of space, and in order not to confuse the clearness of the plate (which is full of detail), are omitted from the map. 'Furrar is a word commonly used of a spring-head where the water " bubbles up." ' Ain er R'aian = "shepherds' spring." ' Ain esh Sherar = " dry spring." ' El Kharjeh = " the outer place " — a common term. ' Wady er Radadeh = " winding valley." This is a common term occurring several times on the Survey. ' Khiirbet el Haiyeh = " ruin of the snake." * Kub'a, apparently the Hebrew Koba, " a helmet," from the form of the hill. ' Farah is the Hebrew Parah, a town of Benjamin. ' Arak el War = " cliff of rough rock." * Shehab (vulgar for Sh'ab) el Huty, " the walled hill spur." 'The Survey party ascended this gully in 1873 after descending from the plain east of Teb'a. ' Suweinlt diminutive of Sunt = " the little acacia." ' Esh Shinar = " the partridge." ' El Hisir, probably El Hosr, " the pebbles." ' El Hosn = " the fortress." '— C. R. C. Observations on the Above, by Rev. W. F. Birch. ' The precision of the Hebrew language in the use of different words again helps us in this inquiry. " Rock " in the A.V. represents (at least) two words in the original, Tzur and Sela. ' The latter always means a precipitous rock — i.e., a cliff. Therefore the Rock {Sela) of Rimmon (as also Etam) was a cliff. AVhere, then, was it situated ? 'On the tribe of Benjamin being at last defeated in the third battle at Gibeah, the light brigade, according to Josephus, cut their way through the enemy, " and fled into the wilder- ness unto the rock Rimmon, and abode in the rock Rimmon four months " (Judges xx. 47). 'A village, 3 miles cast of Bethel, called Remmoon (apparently considered as Rimmon by Eusebius), has, by virtue of its name, had greatness thrust upon itself, in its site being taken to be the veritable rock Rimmon ; but though it may be described as " a white chalky height " (S. and P.), or " a rocky Tell " (" Biblical Researches "), on no side does it present a cliff {sela). This want is a fatal defect in the above identification, so that minor difificulties need not be considered — e.g., the probability of Remmoon being not in Benjamin, but in Ephraim, the scarcity of caves to shelter the refugees, the water supply, etc. Rimmon means the "pomegranate tree." In i Samuel xiv. 2, it is stated that "Saul tarried in the uttermost part of Gibeah under a (lit., the) pomegranate tree (Rimmon) which is in Migron " VOL. III. 19 146 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. the precipices). This position on the southern side of Wady Suweinit (the passage of Michmash), about a mile east of Jeb'a, suits very well the local indications in Judges xx.— e-S-, (43) " they trodc them down with ease over against Gibeah totoards the sun-rising:' ' GcEenius takes Rimmon in Judges xx. and i Samuel xiv. to mark the same place ; while so striking are the points of agreement between "the r/z^of the pomegranate tree " and "the pomegranate tree that was among tlic precipices " that there hardly seems room for any other opinion. ' That the six hundred survivors at fust, and afterwards Saul and " about six hundred men," found refuge among the same southern cliffs of the passage of Michmash, and that, therefore, here was the great natural fastness of the tribe of Benjamin, would be finally established beyond question if there could also be found here first pro^^er accommodation, and next sufficient water for 600 men for four months, since Saul and his followers might have managed with a poor supply of both for a few days at the most. ' A small but valuable book, " Byeways in Palestine," seems to provide the desired Hnk. In 1852 Mr. Consul Finn was at Remmoon, inquiring for a large cavern that might have contained the 600 Benjamites, but he only found a few of inconsider- able size. Afterwards he passed through Mukhmas and crossed "Wady Suweinit, and observes (p. 207), " At a short distance down the valley there are remarkable pre- cipices on each side, which must be the Bozez and Seneh, renowned for the bold adventure of Jonathan and his armour- bearer, and near these projections are some large old karoob-trees." Next he comes to Geba (Jeb'a), and adds : " The guide told MUGH.\RET u.MM ET TUEiiMiN. US of a vast cavcni in the Wady Suweinit capable of holding many hundred men, near to the above-mentioned karoob-trees, and therefore just the suitable refuge for the Israelites (i Samuel xiv. 11), besides the Bozez and Seneh; and he told us that half-way down the precipice there is a course of water running towards the Ghor." ' The value of this information lies in its being (apparently) the spontaneous statement of a person who thought that one who cared to look for a large cave at Remmoon would like to see one wherever he could, and so far the existence of shelter and water in the required spot, besides being desirable, becomes also probable. ' A most interesting report in this " Quarterly Statement " from the Rev. H. B. Rawnsley (on a curious spring and cavern marked Miigharet el Jai in the new map, and mentioned by Dr. Robinson as being large) both proves that Mr. Finn's informant spoke the sober truth, and, in my opinion, fixes the required position of the famous " rock of Rimmon," the dernier • ressort of the tribe of Benjamin. ' An old error, however, is not easily uprooted ; accordingly, at risk of being tedious, the {SHEET XVII.'] ARCHEOLOGY. 147 claims of Remmoon shall be fully considered, and if false (I hope) annihilated. AVhal, then, are its claims to be the " Rock of Rimmon ?" '(i) Its name and (?) mention in the " Onomasticon." {a) " Remmon in tribu Symeonis vel Judce : hodieque est vicus nomine Remmon, juxta CEliam contra aquilonem in quinto decimo ejus milliario." (/') "Remmon, petra Remmon in tribu Symeonis, sive Zabulon." ' (2) Lieutenant Conder says : " At Riimmon there arc many caves sufficient for any number of Benjamites." '(3) Its elevated position. "Rummon lies high, on a rocky Tell" ("Later Biblical Researches," 290). ' (4) There is a spring of water in its neighbourhood, ' (5) It is within the limits of Benjamin, as commonly drawn, ' (6) It is in or on the borders of the wilderness. ' Against the above site, and in favour of the position east of Jeb'a, it may be observed (i) that there was a Rimmon in the rival, or true position, according to i Samuel xiv. 2. " The pomegranate tree (Rimmon) in the precipice." The " Onomasticon " in (a) has not in view the Rock of Rimmon, but the city Rimmon (Joshua xv. 32, xix. 7) ; and in {b) makes a ludicrous conjecture because " Rimmon " occurs in Joshua xix. 7 and I Chron. vi. 77. The name Rimmon in the right position has also just been recovered in " Wady er Rumman." ' (2) Is well met by the counter-cave reputed to hold six Jiundred ineti. * (4) 5, 6) Even if proved for Remmoon, hold good equally well for the position directly east of Geba. ' (3) This is the rock on which the claims of Remmoon must go to pieces. Give the word rock {sela) its proper weight — z>., call it cliff— dXidi it must crush this pretender. Remmoon does not stand on a cliff, and so could not give the Benjamites the security they sought and found in the mountain fast- ness in Wady Suweinit. 'That Sela means a cliff — i.e., a rock more or less perpendicular — is clear from Biblical usage : 2 Chron. xxv. 12 ; Jeremiah li. 25 ; Amos vi. 12 ; i Samuel xxiii. 13 (Sela-ha-macheloth. See "Tent Work"). Accordingly the Rock {Sela) Etam, though near Bethlehem, cannot be the Frank Mountain, which is the " Rock " {Tzur), i Chron. xi. 15, near the traditional andjtrue Cave of Adullam. ML GHARLT UMM ET TUlil.MlN (^liMEKlt)K;. 19 — 2 148 THE SURVEY VF WESTERN PALESTINE. ' Happily, Benjamin had brains besides pluck, and so refused Remmoon and chose Sela Rimmon ; otherwise it had never given a Saul to be the best and tallest king in Israel, and the " last and least of the apostles " in the Church. ' So minutely accurate is the Bible, that it is hardly surprising that Mr. Rawnsley's report recovers " the pillar-rock " in Wady Suweinit, which, though ignored in the Authorised Version, is mentioned in the Hebrew ; see i Samuel xiv. 5. " The one rock (Hebr. tooth) was a pillar on the north, over against Michmash" (Sp. Comment.). ' This pillar is referred to as " a tooth of rock that, like a tower on a bracket, hangs in mid-air at the angle of the rock cliff.'" — W. F. Birch, ' Quarterly Statement,' 1879. Mugharet Umm et Tiieimin (K u). — A large cave with an entrance in the south-west corner. It is of irregular shape (see Plan), measuring 220 feet by 140 feet. A number of natural columns are formed by the junction of large stalactites from the roof with the stalagmites beneath them ; on the east side of the cavern a sort of gallery ascends between these and the walls of the cave, and in the south-east corner the floor sinks, and a single stalagmite stands up like a statue. It is supposed Feet 20 wo 70 90 tfo »o 100 zooj-e^ to be a petrified figure by the peasantry. Two smaller galleries run in from the cave, one on the east, one on the north. The first is 40 feet long and about 16 feet wide ; in this is a shallow reservoir cut in the floor ; this contained water i foot deep in autumn, and a small rock-cut channel led from it to a cistern now filled up. The water is supposed to have certain medicinal qualities. The second gallery, entered behind a sort of screen of stalagmite, is 80 feet long, and some 20 feet wide. At the further end is a pit some {SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 149 60 feet deep and 15 feet across; for 20 feet there is a steep slope ; for 40 feet the sides of the pit are sheer. This pit is used by the neighbour- ing peasantry for the execution of women charged with immorality, who are thrown down it. The cave appears to be entirely natural, except near the reservoir, where the sides of the cave have been hewn, and the cisterns and water- channel cut in the rock. A mound of rubbish reaches from the cave door. It seems to be ancient, as some of the stalagmites have formed on it. The gallery at the back was full of bats, and in the cave are many rock- doves. Visited and planned 17th October, 1873. Mukhmas (N s). — In the village are remains of old masonry, apparently a church. A pillar-shaft is built into a wall in the north-west corner of the villao-e. Two lintel stones are built over the door of another house, one with three crosses in circles, the second with a design apparently cut in half. Neby Samwil (Ms). — The ruins include the church of St. Samuel, finished in 1157 a.d. (see Du Vogu(^, ' ^^glises de la Terre Sainte,' P- 339). with scarps and ruins which probably belong to the same period. The Church. — The transept and north aisle remain. The nave has been destroyed. The apse has also been apparently destroyed, and a Tut J O 5 y 2^ 30 *o so *o ?9 f'*^ \y, Vt tt A modern wall exists on the cast. The cenotaph of Neb y S a m w i 1 stands about where the middle of the nave would have been. Various later Moslem additions have been made, including the walls round the cenotaph. The minaret stands in the south-east corner of the south 15° THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. sid^ of the transept. Numerous Hebrew inscriptions are written on the plaster of the walls, just outside the chamber, in which the cenotaph stands. They appear quite modern. The tomb of Samuel at this site is recognised in the Jichus ha Aboth (sixteenth century), but is declared to be a false site by Benjamin of Tudela in the twelfth century. The church measured i88 feet across the transept outside; the nave TOMl! OF SAMUF.r,. (not including' transept) was 58 feet by 26 feet inside, in three bays. The walls of the church were 7 feet thick. The arches used are pointed, but broad for their height. The masonry is small and well-dressed, with numerous masons' marks, as shown on the special plan. Outside the west tower on the south side of the transept there are small drafted stones. On the north there was a narrow passage outside the church, which appears to have been arched over. The north aisle, now walled up and made into a mosque, has brackets {SHEET XF//.] ARCHAEOLOGY. to support the vaulting, as at Kiiryet el 'Enab. The arches are groined and the roof is entire. There appears to have been a small door- way, in the west side of the south transept, perhaps leading to a crypt, for a cave is said to exist under the church. In the north aisle are Hebrew graffiti on the Crusading masonry. They are of some age, as they have been plastered over after being cut. The longest, on a voussoir with a mason's mark (double triangle), records the names of ' Mesha ben David . . .' * Levi ben . . .' and ' Shemon ' roughly written in square characters. East of the church is the modern village containing many ancient fragments, and among others a Crusading chimney. There is a scarp of rock some 5 or 6 feet high running north and south on the east of the village. A narrow trench is cut between this and a sort of platform of rock, which is occupied by buildings. North of the church there is a sort of sunk court about 250 feet north and south by 500 feet east and west, to which the narrow passage leads. On the north-east of this is a flat platform of rock, reached by steps, with a cave below. East of the platforms the rock is levelled and forms two large shallow reservoirs communicating with one another, the largest some 300 feet side, the smaller, on the east, of irregular shape, 250 feet side. The buildings on the platform do not appear to be very ancient ; they include a long vault with a tunnel roof, and there are two curious shallow THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. recesses in the scarp immediately to the north-east of the passage above mentioned, which may perhaps have been intended for guard-houses. Lower down the hill on the south-east is a good-sized birkeh cut in rock beside the road. East of this is a ledge of rock from which water trickles out in several places, especially at the 'A i n J a k u k, where there is a small tunnel 1 5 paces long and large enough to walk to the end. The NEBY SAMWiL. water comes out from this to a place where there seems to have been a trough, whence an aqueduct once led. Above this is a small chamber cut in rock, with a door having a pointed arch cut in rock. A little higher is a small rock-cut stable (compare Khurbet Dustrey, Sheet V., Section B,) for four horses, with rock-cut mangers. It is full of rubbish to the height of the mangers. [SHEET XVIL] ARCHEOLOGY. 153 Further east is another chamber, said to be connected with a spring. It was 4^ paces square, with an arched door. The road leading up the hill is ancient. In one part steps well-paved occur. Between Neby Samwil and Jerusalem the road shows traces of antiquity, having side-walls of rude blocks or slabs set on end and undressed, and remains of a paving of polygonal stones fitted together, apparently Roman work. The rock in places is levelled to receive this paving. Visited 9th January, 1874. Neby Turfini (Ks). — Close to this place there is a group of unopened tombs. One of these, recently broken into by the peasantry. is described as lined with mosaic, and had a door of limestone, measuring about 2\ feet by 2 feet, carved with two lions' heads and two bulls' VOL. III. 20 154 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. heads. The lock was originally of metal, and a lead ring was attached beneath it. A somewhat similar door exists in the cave under the church at Samaria, but is of basalt, and larger than that now described, having only panels without any heads. The door at Samaria appears to have belonged to a Jewish tomb ; that from Neby Turfini is now in possession of Mr. P. Bergheim. Numerous panelled doors of basalt, with Christian emblems, have been found by the Due de Vogue in the Hauran, Doors of very similar character also occur (with plain panels) in many tombs in Asia Minor, but are generally false doors in the rock. R a-f a t (M s). — There are many ancient rock-cut sepulchres at this place, having from 2 to 8 kokim in each tomb. (See Section A.) The modern village lies among orchards of pear and pomegranate, with a good grove of olives to the west, and vineyards on the south. The spring ('Ain Ra-fat), a copious perennial supply of good water, issues from a cave about 40 feet long in a rocky scarp west of the houses. A wild fig grows at the cave mouth. In the scarp are rock-cut tombs, of which fourteen were examined. They have entrances in the rock-scarps which face west, and they are all south of the spring. No. i, nearest the spring and near the top of the flat hill, is blocked, but has a square outer chamber 8 feet side. No. 2 is blocked up. No. 3 has an entrance on the west 5 feet 4 inches wide, 4^ feet high ; the chamber is 7 feet 10 inches square, with another opening broken through on the south-east. Nos. 4 and 5, close together, rather higher up the hill to the south, have well-cut doors with arched fronts ; No. 4 is blocked ; No. 5 is 7^ feet square, with two kokini at the back and two to the right, well-cut : both the door and the kokim were closed by slabs fitting into sunk rebates. The kokim measure 6\ feet by feet and are 3 feet high. No. 6 has an ante- chamber 10 feet square, an inner chamber with seven kokim, four to the left, three at the back, two to the right, and spaces left for two more koki7n not cut — one at the back, one to the right. No. 7 is a large koka in the cliff. No. 8 has two kokim, one to the right, one at the back. No. 9 is choked. No. 10, at a lower level and near the spring, is a square chamber. No. 11, south-east of the last, has three kokim at the back, one each side, and an unfinished koka on the left. No. 12 had an outer chamber ; the inner one is blocked up. No. 13, on the south side {SHEET XVIL] ARCHEOLOGY. 155 of the hill, is broken ; it has two koka at the back. No. 14 is simply a koka in the rock. Revisited 23rd June, 1881. R a-f a t (J t). — Traces of ruins. Cisterns, winepresses cut in rock and rough pillar-shafts, with ruins of a modern village and a Mukam. (See Palestine Exploration Fund Photograph No. 273.) Er Ram (M s). — West of the village is the Mukam of Sheikh Hasein, once a small Christian basilica. The remains of the north aisle, 6 feet 8 inches wide, are marked by four columns 2 feet in diameter. The chamber of the saint's tomb occupies part of the nave, and into its north wall the lintel of the old door is built, a stone 10 feet long, half of which is visible, with designs as shown. In the courtyard east of this chamber is an old well of good water and a fine mulberry-tree. In the west wall of the Mukam other stones, with discs in low relief, are built in. West of the village is a good birkeh with a pointed vault ; lower down the hill a pillar-shaft broken in two, probably from the church. On the hill are cisterns. Drafted stones are used up in the village walls. At Khan c r R a m, by the main road, is a quarry with half-finished blocks still in it, and two cisterns. The Khan appears to be quite modern, and is in ruins. There are extensive quarries on the hill-sides near it. Revisited 23rd June, 1881. ' At the shrine which is so conspicuous near this village are remains of a former chapel. The lintel stone (as it would seem), with a bas-relief of rosettes, has been found by Dr. Chaplin within the building, and a very curious stone mask is in his possession, obtained from the village. It represents a human face without hair or beard, the nose well-cut, the eyes and mouth very feebly designed. ' The mask is hollowed out behind, and has two deep holes at the back as if to fix it to a wall. It is over a foot in longer diameter, and curiously resembles some of the faces of the Moabite collection of Mr. Shapira. There cannot well be any question of its genuine character, and nothing like it has been found, so far as I know, in Palestine.' — Lieutenant Conder, ' Quarterly Statement,' i88i, p. 196. Ram-Allah (M s). — The rock-cut tombs marked on the map are blocked, except one, which is a square chamber, with a bench running round the walls. The entrances to the others are well cut. THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Er Ras (L u). — There are a good many rock-cut tombs at this village with loculi. Ras e t T a h u n e h (M s). — A heap of stones walled round. I . R u j m ' A f a n e h. 2. R u j m ' A t i y e h. 3. R u j m el B a r i s h. 4. R u j m e d Dir. 5. R u j m e d D u r i b e h. 6. Rujm et Tarud. — These curious cairns occupy the summit of the ridge above M alhah, and are conspicuous against the sky-line from near Mar Elias. Rujm el Barish is about 50 feet diameter at the top, and some 30 feet or more in height. A small excavation has been made in it, and it appears to be composed of small stones or shingle tightly packed in a dry stone structure with a little earth over it. On the south is a tomb cut in rock, a chamber without loc2di. Some of the cairns stand high on the hill-tops, others lower on the slope. Rujm 'Atiyeh is a small cairn 9 or 10 feet high and 40 feet in diameter. On the south the soft, gritty chalk is quarried ; on the north- west is a cave 8 feet in diameter, in soft rock. Small stones compose the mound, with a covering of earth. A view north and north-east, but not west, is obtained. Olivet, Neby Samwil, Malhah, part of Jerusalem, Beit Jila, and the Rujm es Seleiyib on the south are visible ; but the cairn is on a saddle, not on the highest point. Rujm 'A fan eh has the same view, but on the west it commands el Welejeh ; it is 96 feet in diameter at the bottom, 23 feet at the top, and 40 feet high. Another similar cairn exists between this and the next, in a fold of the ground, where no view is obtained in any direction. Rujm e t Tarud stands higher than the preceding cairns. On the south side is a cemented cistern, and a small cave with a well-cut door. The view includes, besides the places above-mentioned, Tell 'Asur, Soba, Kustul, and the Moab hills, Hausan, el Kabti, etc. This cairn is 40 feet high, 138 feet in diameter at the bottom, and 38 feet at the top. West of this, on a spur of the hill, is another cairn of medium size, and in the valley to the west again another very small one. On the spur north of el Welejeh is yet another cairn 20 feet high, 12 feet in diameter at the top, 51 feet at the bottom. It commands a view to Beit 'Atab and Surah ; the sea north of Ashdod is seen from it; and on the south Ras Sherifeh is visible. Rujm ed D Li r i b e h forms the seventh of the group ; it is near the last, and a {SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 157 stunted pine grows by it ; the size is about equal to the last-noticed. Great cairns like these occur also in Moab, and the situation suggests that they may have been ancient ' high-places ' of the Canaanites. Visited 31st October, 1874; revisited 8th August, 1881. ' North of 'Ain Yalo we came across some very curious mounds, unlike any that I have ever seen in this country, with the exception of that near 'Amwas, which is called by the natives Rujm el Haik bint Sultan el Fenish, ' the Spinning Mound of the Phoenician King's Daughter,' as I mentioned in a former report. There are in all five of these mounds, of which four are on the crests of ridges, while the other is situated near the head of a shallow gully. The three largest are named Rujm el 'Atiyeh, et Tarud, and el Barish. Small tentative excavations — by Captain Warren, R.E., as I am told — have been made in this last, but a thorough examination of one of them would, I think, be likely to prove of great interest. 'The mounds vary from 12 to 30 feet in height, and from 15 to 50 feet in diameter at top. The construction of all seems identical. Rough stones of no great size are closely packed with chips and a certain proportion of mould, and thus form a very compact mass, which can only have been erected with the expenditure of much labour. Hence the prima-facie view is that they were piled up for some special and important purpose. The position of two of them, and the close proximity of all, precludes the idea of their being beacon-stations or land- marks. If, as seems not unlikely, they are tombs, we may hope to find objects of interest in them. The most practicable way of examining them would probably be to drive a mine to the centre along the ground level, as by this means any central interment or traces of incre- mation would be immediately discovered. These mounds differ essentially from those on the neighbouring Plain of Rephaim (so called), and known as Seb'a Rujum — the Seven Mounds. These latter are merely heaps of hard limestone thrown carelessly together, and have all the appearance of being composed of the rocks and stones collected during the process of clearing the adjacent lands for the purposes of cultivation.' — Mr. C. F. Tyrwhitt Drake, ' Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 24. Es Sebd Rujum. — Large stone heaps, apparently formed by clearing the surrounding land of stones for cultivation. S e 1 b i t (J s). — Foundations and caves. The ruins are extensive. A square building stands in the middle. There is a ruined reservoir lined with cement, the walls of rubble. Sheikh Abu ez Zeitdn (L s). — A mosque, with chambers for pilgrims. Umm esh Sheikh is a larger building, but ruinous. There is W a k u f, or glebe-land, belonging to the mosque. (See Section C.) Soba (L t). — There are remains of a Crusading fortress at this place. Nearly at the top of the hill to the east is a rocky scarp, 20 feet high, sloping, and fitted with a sloping masonry revetement of good-sized THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. drafted masonry. The draft has a diagonal dressing Hke that on twelfth century masonry. This fortress was destroyed by Muhammed Aly, and rebuilt by Abu Ghosh. It was again destroyed at a later period. There are remains of Crusading buildings in all parts of the village, and a stone altar, with steps, marks the probable position of the church. The central tower, which is very conspicuous, seems also Crusading work, and one of the streets has a wall of roughly-dressed large stones, with joints packed (as at Kuryet el 'Enab) with small chips. A little to the west of the village is a large vaulted building, with drafted stones in the walls. South of the village there are rock-cut tombs. One of these was newly opened in 1875. It had nine kokini, each of which had a slab closing the end, still in place, and 4 inches thick. The roofs of the kokhn were arched. Near this was a fine rock-cut wine-press with several chambers. Vineyards still exist round the village. For traditions see Section C. South of S 6 b a are the ruins of a Khan. Visited 25th May, 1875. Surah (J t). — Caves exist here, and ruined tombs ; one was a square chamber without loculi ; another, a large tomb with a rock pillar, but now much broken, and the plan of the original form destroyed. This tomb is close to the Mukam of Neby Samit— a domed chamber, with an outer chamber to the west, and a door to the north, on which side is a courtyard, with a palm tree. The chamber has a mihrab, and by it are green rags, said to be the Prophet's clothes. In the court are two Arab graves. To the west are several koktni tombs full of bones and skulls. Other caves, cisterns, and a wine-press, north of the Mukam, were observed. Revisited July, 1881. Tell el Ful (M t). — A remarkable mound on the watershed in a conspicuous position. The place has been excavated, and proves to be artificial ; a building 30 feet high, measuring 50 feet east and west, by 46 feet north and south at the top, the walls being sheer, and a cross wall running through the middle east and west. The building is not rectangular. There appear to have been two chambers in the top, each 10 feet by 6 feet, and 9 feet deep. {SHEET XVII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 159 On the north and south there are two lower outer walls, which have a sloping outer revetement. The monument measures therefore 71 feet Stfble 32 f » to 1 Inch 1?.,.f.. ? !!2 y y ''f ^ north and south at the bottom, but on the east and west there are no outer walls. Possibly flights of steps may have led up on these sides. The slope of the revetement is about 60°. The whole of the walls, which are 7 or 8 feet thick, and 15 feet high, including revetement, are composed of stones of good size, rudely hewn and undressed. The joints are packed with smaller stones. Some of the corner stones are squared. The stones in the scarp are slanted, so as to form the sloping face. The masonry resembles some of that used by the Crusaders. The face-stones are set in mortar. i6o THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. The monument stands on artificial terraces, extending about \ mile either way ; these are cut in the soft limestone. By the road is a ruined cistern, and to the south the rock is quarried ; but there are no traces of a former town. Visited 14th December, 1874. Et Tabalieh, or Beit Yunan en Neby. — This ruin is near Khurbet el Khamis and the house of Count Caboga. A circular Scale of Yards m s 0 10 20 3B ■'O I • r . 1 ' 1 ^ ■ —J TELILIA. font, 22 inches in diameter, I3-| inches deep, was found here in 18S1. The sides are fluted all round. Foundations of a building 40 yards [SHEET XVII.] ARCH^OIOGY. i6i by 30 yards, with walls 4 feet thick, also exist. The stones are well dressed, and some have a rough draft. This building seems to be of Crusading origin. There are also two rock-cut cisterns with round mouths. Revisited nth July, 1881. T e 1 i 1 i a (M t). — This appears to be an old camp on a commanding spur between two roads. The walls are 4 feet thick, of stones without mortar, and averaging about 2 feet diameter. The inclosure measures 65 yards north and south by 35 east and west. It has inner inclosures as shown. The only water-supply is from a cistern some distance to the east, now dry. Revisited 2nd July, 1881. Tibna (K u). — Foundations. Umm el 'Amdan (K u). — Foundations. U m m e d h D h 1 a b (J u). — Foundations, a conspicuous tree. Umm er Rus (K u). — Foundations, walls, and cisterns. They appear to be Crusading work. Umm es Semmeikat (J s). — Traces of ruins. Umm es Stir (J s). — Traces of ruins ; a rock-cut cistern. Umm et Tald (N u). — Ruined watch-tower, and cistern. Urtas (M u). — From the spring below the village an aqueduct once carried water to B i r k e t el H u m m a m beneath J e b e 1 el Fu re id is. (Sheet XXI.) The level of the spring is 2,300 feet above the sea ; that of the birkeh is 2,082 feet. The fall is therefore 218 feet in a distance of 3I miles along the aqueduct. There was a reservoir below the spring, and a rock-cut channel, 3 feet deep and broad from it. The aqueduct ran along the north side of the valley, and was partly built of rubble masonry of small and large stones in hard cement, with pieces of flint and a facing of small ashlar. It was traced for about 2 miles, and lost when it reached the soft chalky ground. Visited 3rd November, 1874. VOL. III. SHEET XVII.— SECTION C. The population of the Jerusalem District is stated in the official return of 1850-51 to have included 65,000 Moslems, 2,350 Greek Catholics, 500 Latins — a total of 67,850 males, or 203,550 souls. The population of Jerusalem, according to Consul Moore's return in 1873-4, was as below : ^ ( Ashkenazim ... ... ... 6,000 I ews \ ( Sephardim ... ... ... 4,600 Christians ... ... ... ... 5>300 Moslems... ... ... ... ... 5,000 20,900 The Christian population is thus divided by Pere Lievin, whose estimate may probably be taken as correct : Orthodox Greeks ... ... ... 2,800 Latins 1,500 Armenians ... ... ... ... 510 Greek Catholics ... ... ... 30 Armenian Catholic ... ... ... 16 Copts 130 Protestants 300 Abyssinians ... ... ... ... 75 Syrians ... ... ... ... ... 12 5'373 [SF/EET XVII.] TRADITIONS. 163 The number of the Jews has of late increased at the rate of 1,000 to 1,500 per annum. Since 1875 the population of Jerusalem has rapidly mcreased. The number of Jews is now estimated at 15,000 to 20,000, and the population, including the inhabitants of the new suburbs, reaches a total of about 40,000 souls. Three famous native families had their seats (Kurseh) on this Sheet, namely, the Abu Ghosh at Kuryet el 'Enab, the Abu Lehham at Beit 'A tab and the Abu D i s at the village of the name. Traditions are connected with several places on the Sheet as follows : Sheikh Abu Zeitunisso called because a man dreamed he saw a light burning on the hill, and the Sheikh appeared as a majestic personage, and commanded that a mosque should be built there in his honour. The dreamer went to the spot when he waked, and found a fine olive tree, which had sprung up in the night. He built the mosque, which is now very famous. The Sheikh's mother was the daughter (Bint) of Ahmed e d D u j a n y. At 'Am was the tradition of the Bir et Tadun is to the effect that a plague originated at the well. The inhabitants of the village died, but were brought to life by Neby 'Ozeir (E s r a). The place of kneeling down of the Prophet S a 1 e h ' s camels is also shown near the village, in the Khallet et Takah. The mound called Rujm el H c i k, near the same place, is shown as the place where the daughter of the F e n i s h Sultan used to sit and spin. She had her palace at K h u r b e t I k b a 1 a, whence a wire led to S 6 b a, the summer palace of her father, whose winter house was at L a t r Ci n (all three Crusading sites). The name Fenish is supposed to be a corruption of F e 1 i s h or Philistine. The garden of the Fenish is shown at Beit Jibrin. (See Sheet XX,, Section C.) Two famous legendary characters in the 'A r k u b district are Sultan Bedr and Sheikh I s m a i n ; descendants of the latter are said still to live in this district ; several places are named after him. At N e h h a 1 i n is the tomb of H a j 'A 1 e i y a n, of whom it is related that, having been refused entrance into the mosques because of his ragged and filthy appearance, he spread his Abba on the sea and performed his prayers on it. 164 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. S h a f a t is said to be named from a Jewish King (Jehoshaphat). The Kiilat es Suwan is said to be a place where the inhabi- tants were turned to stone for their impiety. The names, Wady el Mikteleh, 'Valley of Slaughter,' and Wady ed D u m m, 'Valley of Blood,' are interesting. The first represents the site of the great slaughter of Canaanites, by Joshua, in the valley of Ajalon. The second is close to the site of Adasa, where a fierce battle was fought by Judas Maccabaeus. K h u r b e t N li h is connected with a legend of the deluge, said to have originated in the 'Ain et Tanniir. Zeitunet en Neby, south of Jerusalem, is supposed to be a place whence Mohammed shot at a Pagan monarch sitting in the Haram. The long aqueduct to Jerusalem from 'Ain K u e i z 1 b a is called ' The Pagan Canal' The little ruin of Abu T h 6 r, south of Jerusalem, was sacred to a certain Sheikh who accompanied Omar to Jerusalem riding on a bull, whence the name, ' Father of the Bull' It was originally a Convent of St. Mark. The Sheikh's name was Shehab ed Din. Sheikh S a m a t, at Surah, is said to have been the brother of Shemshiin el Jebbar. Neby S h u d, at the village of EshM, is said to have had a wooden sabre, with which he killed the Pagans. The legends told of these prophets, and of S h a m s h u n el Jebbar, or Abu M e i z a r, are corrupt versions of the Biblical stories concerning Samson. The enemies are represented throughout as being Christians. (See 'Quarterly Statement,' October, 1875, p. 211.) On revisiting Surah in 1 88 1 it was found, however, that these legends were not genuine, but had been related to the peasantry by Sheikh Goblan, a Christian of Beit Jala. The tradition, still, repeated, of the ' field of peas ' is mentioned as early as 1172 a.d. by Theodoricus in connection with Rachel's tomb. Maundrell in 1697 a.d. says that the stones here gathered by pilgrims were supposed to be petrified peas, turned to stone by the Virgin as a punishment of a peasant who refused her a handful to satisfy her hunger. (Compare a similar tradition, Sheet V., Section C.) This story under varying forms is a common one. At e 1 Jib the principal spring is supposed to be haunted by a {SHEET XF/7.] TRADITIONS. prophet. At B i r 'A z e i r, west of this village, the coffin of Sheikh Hamed, whose Mukam is in the village, is said to have become immove- able as it was carried, and the saint flew thence to his shrine. He was a relation of the famous Derwish chief, Ahmed el Bedawy. At Khurbet el Murussiis there is a tradition of a certain Kaddis Khareitun, or ' Priest Chariton,' who destroyed his enemies by a potion of serpent's blood. '■En route Lieutenant Conder made a plan of the crusading ruin of Khurbet Ikbala, south- east of Kuryet el 'Enab, and about a quarter of a mile south of the bridge on the high road. This is said by the natives to have been Deir el Benat, a nunnery, where dwelt the Bint Sultan el Fenish — the daughter of the Phoenician King. Since the telegraph has been laid along the highway they have made an addition to the story, and say that she communicated with her father, whose summer quarters were at Soba, by means of a long wire. Her father's winter quarters are placed at Rathin, as the natives almost invariably call Latron ; near this place is another relic of the daughter in a small tumulus, which I hope to open some day, called Rujm el Heik bint Sultan el Fenish. The aqueduct, which formerly led from near Tell Jezer (Gezer) to the Burket el Jamus at Ramleh, seems also referable to her, as it is named Kanat bint el Kafir — the water-channel of Infidel's daughter. 'In Gen. ix. i6 we read that Gezer was taken by Pharaoh, King of Egypt, from the Canaanites, and given to his daughter, wife to King Solomon, and in the following verse this latter monarch, we are told, rebuilt it. The connection between Pharaoh's daughter and the Bint el Kafir seems very probable.' — Mr. C. F. Tyrwhitt Drake, 'Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 77. SHEET XVIII —SECTION A. The present Sheet contains 204 square miles of country, including the plains of Jericho, the north end of the Dead Sea, the B u k e i a, and the downs of N e b y M u s a, with the eastern slopes of the main watershed. Orography. — The different divisions of country noticed above may be separately described. The Hills. — The summit of KilruntLil forms a sort of outpost, a steep precipice of hard rock, 800 feet high. From this point the line of the hills runs south-south-west and north-west. At the base of these hills, south of Wady Kelt, a raised terrace commences, averaging about 1,000 feet above the plain, and gradually widening. South of Wady Ekteif it forms a plateau called el B u k e i a, which rises gradually east- ward, 200 to 300 feet, into the line of peaks which stand above the western shore of the Dead Sea. On the west the Bukeia is bounded by the precipices and steep , slopes of the main watershed line. The whole plateau consists of soft marls, and is intersected by deep valleys with precipitous banks. The soil is bare and uncultivated, but covered with grass and wild flowers in spring. Beneath the cliffs east of the Bukeia, there is a narrow strip of ground, much broken and intersected by the torrent beds dividing it into narrow knife-edged ridges of white marl. This reaches to the edge of the pre- cipitous cliffs, about 1,000 feet high, which stand above the shore of the Dead Sea, and have at their feet terraces of marl at a level about 300 feet above that of the water. Thus the cross section of the country gives a series of steps, 300 feet, 1,300 feet, and 1,600 feet above the present Dead Sea level, the higher sloping gently down westward and reaching the feet of the main chain, [SHEET XVin.] OROGRAPHY. 167 which rises in high knife-edged ridges above, the principal summits being el Muntar (1,723 feet above the Mediterranean), and Jebel Ekteif (940 feet). A curious feature of the B u k e i a is the isolated hill which bounds it on the north, standing 264 feet above the watershed of the plain (at the road), east of the mountain. It is called Jebel K ah mum, and con- sists of reddish marl, with very steep slopes, 30° to 40°, and in parts it is precipitous. A second remarkable feature is the small valley running southward and separating the Wcir ez Zeranik from the main chain of hills, which present precipices of hard limestone, surmounted by hard white chalk. The War ez Zeranik and Wdr el Akhsheibeh present almost perpendicular crags on the west, and steep slopes averaging about 30° and reaching down to the B u k e i a on the east. They consist of soft marls. K h li r b e t M i r d stands on a peak, which is a continua- tion of this line to the south. The formation is evidently due to a fault. Tracing the hills from K u r u n t u 1 northwards, we find them again receding, leaving an open down at the foot of the precipices (Wady el 'Au j ah). This terrace or down runs eastward to the Jordan valley, and terminates in various conical peaks, the most prominent of which is the 'Osh el Ghurab, about 500 feet above the plain. The most remarkable feature in this district is the M e i d a n el 'A b d, an ancient shore line, at a level of about 800 feet above the Dead Sea. The main watershed is here intersected by two great valleys, Wady Kelt and Wady Ntaeidmeh, south and north of Kuruntul. The first of these is a deep and narrow gorge, flanked by precipitous cliffs, above which rise the white chalk hills, presenting a tangled network of narrow water-worn torrent beds, with knife-edged ridges between. The slopes are very steep, and numerous conical peaks and rounded knolls project along the ridges. The whole of this district is a barren and tree- less desert, uncultivated, and clothed only in early spring with green and wild flowers. Jericho Plai n. — The low ground has an average level varying from about 1,100 feet below sea level on the south, to about 800 feet below the Mediterranean on the north. The general slope is eastward from the hills towards the Jordan. i68 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. The broadest part is along the line of W a d y Kelt, where the plain measures 6| miles from Jordan to the ascent of the pass. Further north, 2\ miles above Jericho, the downs project into the plain, which measures 4^ miles from Jordan to the foot of the 'OshelGhurab. The greater part of this plain is covered with herbage in spring. Between E r i h a and 'A in es Sultan there is an extent of wooded country along the course of the stream. The trees are of the Zizyphus species (S i d r or Dom), interspersed with the Zakkum or balsam tree {Balanites JEgyptaica), and acacia {Acacia Vera). The vine is cultivated at Jericho, There are also scattered tamarisks, and by the 'Ain es Sultan, castor-oil trees. A single palm grows by Jericho. In passing eastward from Jericho the plain becomes more and more barren, and the salt soil is covered only with low bushes of the Alkali plant [Htibdhid). A sudden descent leads from the level of the Ghor to that of the Zor, which gradually wadens as it extends southward from \ mile to 2 miles. This lower valley is about 80 or 90 feet below the plain. In it a scattered growth of the tamarisk, the Zizyphus, and Rishrash [Agnus Cashis) — a kind of willow, extends, and in parts near the river the brush- wood becomes very thick. Going southward from Jericho the plain is even more desolate : from the neighbourhood of K u s r H a j 1 a h to the sea, and to the Tell e r Rusheidiyeh the plain presents nothing but a dead level of grey mud. The ground becomes extremely broken and intersected by valleys towards the shore, and low cliffs of mud terminate the plain beneath, which is a muddy tract on the same level with the Zor, a mile wide, sloping gradually to the shores of the sea. Two principal valleys run across the plain, Wady Kelt on the south, and Wady NtaeiAmeh, north of Jericho. They resemble one another in character, being broad watercourses, covered with water-worn boulders and shingle, running between banks some 20 to 30 feet high and 50 to 100 yards apart. Vegetation similar to that of the Zor, and canes, are found along the bed of the stream. One group of palms still remains, as marked on the plan, together with the solitary palm at Jericho. The cliffs in the neighbourhood ofHajr el Asbah project eastward, the distance from the mouth of Jordan to the S a h s ill H a m e i d being {SHEET XVIII.] OROGRAPHY. 169 5^ miles. Thus the plain of Jericho may be generally described as a basin 6\ miles at its widest, east and west, and 8 miles north and south. The Ghor es Seiseban, east of Jordan, forms the other half of this basin, which is broader than the Dead Sea. The Dead Se a. — The shores of this lake consist of a shingly slope reaching some 15 feet above the summer level of the water, at which height is deposited a large quantity of drift-wood brought down in winter by the Jordan. On the north the shore is barren and treeless, with only a few rushes growing near the Jordan mouth in the sort of delta of soft mud and marsh formed by the river. On the west, beneath the terraces on which K h u r b e t K li m r a n stands, there is a canebrake, which con- tinues to the neighbourhood of 'A in Feshkhah. The cliff of Ras Feshkhah projects into the sea, and the shore by the spring is very narrow. In this neighbourhood the shore consists entirely of huge boulders and broken rocks fallen from the cliffs above. Hydrography. — The river Jordan runs across the Sheet from north to south in a direct course 10 miles, the course measured along the various reaches being 1 1 J miles. In this distance it has a fall of 60 feet from the Ghoraniyeh ford to the mouth, or from 1,230 to 1,290 below the Mediterranean. The stream itself has an average breadth of about 30 yards, but in the winter of 1873-4 the whole level of the Zor was covered by a sheet of water. The banks of the stream are steep, as a rule, except in the neigh- bourhood of the fords. The river is almost entirely hidden for the greater part of its course by the jungle of cane and tamarisk on either side. This jungle does not, however, extend further south than the neighbourhood oi el Hend, and below this point the stream is visible flowing between steep mud-banks, and bordered with reeds. On entering the sea it forms a muddy marsh covered with driftwood, and too soft to be crossed by man or beast. The following is a summary of the various levels along Jordan. Sheet VI. Sea of Galilee level, — 682 feet below Mediterranean. ,, IX. Fall to the mouth of the Yermuk . 40 feet per mile. ,, IX. ,, Jisr el Mujamid . • 7 » VOL. III. 22 170 THE SURVEY OF UESTERN PALESTINE. Sheet XII. Fall to Makhadet Saidiyeh . 10 feet per mile. XV. ,, Makhadet Umm Sidreh . 4^ ,, ,, XV. „ el 'Aujeh . . . 4^ „ XVIII. ,, el Ghoraniyeh . . 10 ,, „ XVIII. ,, Dead Sea . . , 6 ,, ,, Dead Sea level, — 1,292 below Mediterranean. Total fall, 610 feet in a direct course of 65 miles, or 9 "3 feet per mile. The details given above depend on the aneroid readings, which are not always very reliable in the Jordan valley, because of the great strain on the instruments. But it appears clearly from the various readings near the banks, including the trigonometrical stations at el Mirmaleh (Sheet XV.), 889 feet, and K li s r el Y e h u d, 1,167 ^^e^t, that the course is flatter in the middle district of the valley, as is also no doubt indicated by the way in which the streams flow parallel with the river in this part. The Survey reading at the Ghoraniyeh ford also agrees very closely with that deter- mined independently by Captain Warren, R.E. There are five fords across the river in Sheet XVIII,: el Ghoraniyeh, an ancient ford now used as a ferry, el M a n d e s i, Makhadet Hajlah (the pilgrims' bathing-place), and el H e n u which was pointed out by the Abu Nuseir Arabs as a ford, but which is so choked by the jungle that it appears impossible to cross the river at this point. U m m E n k h 6 1 a is the fifth ford. The Makhadet H a j 1 a h is close to the junction of Wady Kelt with Jordan. A shingly shore here exists on the west, and the river takes a sudden bend westward, leaving a tongue of land on the opposite side. Just north of the ford on the west there are a number of fine and ancient tamarisks. The river is open, and free from jungle in the immediate neighbourhood. The stream here is very rapid, the eastern shore steep, and the channel deep on that side, whilst on the west the shore has a very gentle slope. The ford is impassable in winter. Springs. — Two fine springs exist at the head of Wady Kelt and Wady Farah. Both are perennial, and supply the aqueducts. 'A i n F a r a h is a very fine spring surrounded with a thick growth of reeds and with oleander bushes. Small fish have been found in the water. Water stands in Wady Kelt throughout the greater part of the year. In winter [SHEET XVni.] HYDROGRAPHY. a stream flows all along the course from the springs to the Jordan. In November, 1873, a sudden thunderstorm swelled the stream. In less than half-an-hour the water had risen in the narrow part of the valley near Deir el Kelt to a depth of 8 or 10 feet, and at the mouth of the pass where the banks are steep it was 3 or 4 feet deep. Later on in the year the valley was impassable; but the amount of rain was unusual during this season, and in January, 1875, the bed of the stream near Jordan was dry, though there was water near T e 1 1 u 1 Abu el ' A 1 e i k. In the plain beneath a fine spring exists at 'A i n e s Sultan, where there is a copious supply of good cool water (about 80° Fahrenheit), peren- nial, and flowing for a distance of over a mile in summer. (See Tell es Sultan, Section B.) Ain Duk and 'A i n en Nueidmeh are two springs within a few yards of one another at the foot of the mountain byalarge Dom tree. (Palestine Exploration Fund Photograph, No. 216.) Smaller springs exist lower down ; the water is very pure and cool, and flows in a stream about a foot deep. Part of it is carried along a channel surrounded by a thick jungle of canes ; part flows down Wady N ti eiimeh. In the Jericho plain is a fine spring called 'Ain Hajlah. The water wells up in a masonry well about 6 feet diameter. It is of dark blue colour, but fresh and cool. To the east of the spring there is a thicket of the R i s h r a s h willow {Agnis Castus) ; the water finds its way in a small stream to Jordan. In the neighbourhood of the Dead Sea there arc also two springs of importance. The largest of these is 'A i n F e s h k h a h, near which is the little spring called 'Ain e t T a n n 11 r. The water comes out from beneath the cliffs into a pool surrounded with canes, and runs over a shingly bed in several streams into the Dead Sea, The supply is copious and perennial, but has a slightly brackish taste and sulphurous smell. The colour in the pool is a deep green blue. 'Ain el Jeheiyirisa small pool, of salt and sulphurous water, dark blue in colour and surrounded by a canebrake. The water of the Dead Sea has a specific gravity of about i "2 ; the boiling point being 221° Fahr. The proportion of salts is estimated at 24 to 26 per cent., out of which 7 per cent, is common salt ; the other chlorides include calcium, magnesium, potassium, manganese, aluminum, 22 — 2 172 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. and ammonium, with a small proportion of sulphate of lime and 4 per cent, of bromide of magnesium. Bitumen still floats occasionally on the surface, and is collected by the Arabs. Topography. — Only one inhabited place is to be found on this Sheet, the modern village of E r i h a. This is a miserable mud hamlet, with a few black tents pitched among the houses. The houses and the village itself are surrounded by hedges of N e b k — a thorny briar [Zizyphus Spina Christi). To the south of the village there is a square tower with a courtyard, which is the residence of the M u t a s e 1 1 i m. The tower is thought to date back to the twelfth century, at which date it is mentioned by travellers. The number of the inhabitants of Jericho is supposed to be about 300. The village is surrounded with vines trained on low trellises. Wheat and barley is also cultivated in the tract extending between the village and the Shejeret el Ithleh, and west near T e 1 1 Li 1 Abu el 'A 1 e i k. Eriha appears to be the place known as Jericho to the Crusaders, the distance from Quarantania (Kuriintul) to Jericho being given as 2 miles. (Fetellus, as given by Du Vogue ' Eglises de la Terre Sainte,' p. 429.) The water supply of Jericho is by a canal from 'Ain es Sultan. Since 1875 a clean and well-built Russian hospice has been con- structed west of the hamlet. IMany fragments of Roman and Byzantine date were excavated and collected while the work was in progress. The various ancient sites, biblical and non-biblical, included in the Sheet, are as follows. Biblical Sites. Adummim ('the ascent of). — This was a point on the boundary line of Judah. (Joshua xv. 7, xviii. 17.) The name is exacdy represented by the Arabic Talat ed Dumm, and the position south of Wady Kelt and about half way to Jerusalem appears to fit well. The name ' Ascent of Blood ' (or red) is no doubt due to the red brickdust coloured marl in the neighbourhood. In the ' Onomasticon ' (s.v. Adommim) the place is mentioned as ' Castellum Militum,' on the road from Jerusalem to Jericho. This casde remains (see Khan Hathrurah, Section B.), and is presumably the same as the mediceval Tour Rouge. {SHEET XVII I.] BIBLICAL SITES. 173 Beth Hogla h. — This name is identical with the Arabic H a j I a h. The site should be placed at 'A i n H a j 1 a h, where there are traces of ruins round the spring. At a later period this place was supposed to be En Eglaim, and is called En Gallim in the fourteenth century by Marino Sanuto, who places it east of Bet Agla, by which he apparently means the monastery of Kusr Hajlah. Docus, a fort near Jericho (i Mace. xvi. 15). — The name is recover- able in 'A in Duk. The most probable position for the fort seems to be at Khiirbet Abu Lahm. (See Section B.) The Crusading fort of Duk is noticed under the head Jebel Kuriintul, Section B. At a later period the place appears to have been identified with Kurn Surtabeh. (See Sheet XV., Section A.) Gilgal. — The site of this important place is to be sought east of the ancient Jericho. The name J i 1 j u 1 i e h was heard as applied to a Tell near the Shejeret el Ithleh by Herr Zschokkc, in 1865. Robinson also had heard of the name in this direction. It was recovered by me from three natives, as applying to Birket Jiljulieh in 1873. (See tradition of the City of Brass, Section C.) The site is on the direct road from Makhadet Hajlah to 'A i n es Sultan, 4^ miles from the river and miles from E r i h a. Josephus places Gilgal 10 stadia from Jericho and 50 from Jordan, but the latter number is impossible. (Joshua iv, 19 ; Antiquities v. i, 4.) In the fourth century (' Onomasticon,' s.v., Galgala), the site is placed 2 miles east of Jericho, and is said to have been held in reverence by the inhabitants of these regions. Adamnanus (700 a.d.) places Gilgal 5 miles from Jericho, but Willibald (724 a.d.), 5 miles from Jordan and 2 miles from Jericho. In the Crusading period the site was shown further north. (See Khurbet el M e f j i r. Section B.) The remains of a monastery seem to show the site at Shejeret el Ithleh to be the early Christian site. There is nothing against its being the original one. Jericho. — The natural site for a city is at 'A i n es Sultan, where, by general consent, the Jericho of Joshua is placed. The Crusading Jericho was probably the modern E r i h a. (See back under that head.) The Roman Jericho is placed at T e 1 1 11 1 Abu e 1 'A 1 e i k. 174 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. In favour of which we have the probable identification of Cypros with Beit J u b r (see Section B.), and the probability that the aqueducts are Roman work. (See Wady Kelt, Section B.) In the early Christian period there were two sites, one at 'A i n e s Sultan, one near the pass. This agrees with the traces of Byzantine ruins at the former. (See Tell es Sultan, Section B.) Parah. — A town of Benjamin, is probably Khiirbet Farah. (Joshua xviii. 23.) Ze mar aim. — A town of Benjamin, is identified by Robinson with K h u r b e t e s S u m r a h. (Joshua xviii. 22.) The fact that there are two ruins of the name close together may be thought to have some connection with the plural form of the Hebrew name. The chief Biblical interest attaching to this Sheet belongs to the sites of Jericho and Gilgal. The following account of the district and the sites is extracted from Mr. Tyrwhitt Drake's reports in the ' Quarterly Statement ': ' The determination of this site has always appeared to me the most important and interesting point in this part of the country. ' Dr. Robinson, in his earlier travels, says that he was able " to ascertain definitely that no trace of its name or site remains." He would, however, place it in the neighbourhood of the modern er Riha, in accordance with Josephus's description, " on the east border of Jericho, 10 stadia from that city and 50 from Jordan." He was, indeed, informed that the name Jiljilia existed in the neighbourhood, but failed to identify its position. ' I am indebted to M. Ganneau and to Major Wilson for directing my attention to the subject. A German traveller (Herr Zschokke) travelling in 1865, speaks of the discovery of a Tell Jiljul, which he fixes by a compass angle to Kusr Hajlah. Yet, although I went to the spot in M. Ganneau's company, we failed to find the place, and it was not till after his return to Jerusalem that, on revisiting the spot, I found the name was still known to a few of the older inhabitants of er Riha, though not to the Bedawin who now accompany us. I took every precaution in making inquiries, which I put in various forms to three or four persons, and came to the conclusion that the name, though almost lost, still lingered in the memory of a few. ' On the north side of the great AVady Kelt (the traditional Brook Cherith), about i \ English miles from the tower of the modern Jericho (Eriha), towards the east, is a solitary tamarisk known as the " Shejaret el Ithleh," to which a local tradition points as standing on the site of the " City of Brass." ' The tradition of its siege by a great Imam, of the fall of its walls when he had ridden round them, of the destruction of the infidel inhabitants, and of the miracle of the sun standing still over Kuruntul at the Sultan's command ; all these confused reminiscences of the great events of the life of Joshua and of the siege of Jericho point to a connection which may, indeed, date no further back than early Christian times ; or, on the other hand, may be of really valuable antiquity, attaching the site to the history of the Jewish invasion. 'There are not, however, any extensive ruins on or near the spot. A pool, choked with {SHEET XVIII.] BIBLICAL SITES. 175 soil, scattered stones, hewn but of ordinary size, and a large cemetery of tombs, seemingly Arab, though not strictly directed to the Ka'abah, were all we at first observed. On re- visiting the place I found that the name Birket Jiljulieh undoubtedly applies to the pool in question, situate about 150 yards south-east of the tree, built with walls, some 2 feet 6 inches thick, of rolled pebbles, 6 to 18 inches in diameter, well packed. No cement is visible. The dimensions of the Birket are about 40 paces by 30. ' The remains which will, however, prove perhaps of greatest interest are situate south-east and east of this point, being a number of small mounds, seemingly artificial, and known as the Tellayl'at Jiljulieh. There must be about a dozen of them within a square mile, eight or ten feet diameter, and not more than three or four feet high. They are said to be very ancient, and remains of the City of Brass. The angle shows that it was to one of these that Herr Zschokke obtained the name Tell JiljCil. I hope again to visit the spot and open one of the mounds, making a sketch and special plan of the site at the same time. It may seem bold to propose that these mounds are traces of the permanent Israelite camp on the spot, yet we know that nothing in Palestine is more ancient than are such earthworks. ' It might be objected that perhaps the name is only the lingering remembrance of a Crusading or early Christian site for Gilgal, the tradition of a tradition, but the Crusading site seems to have been placed far south at Kusr Hajlah ; and not unnaturally so, for at 'Ain Hajlah exists the only spring of fresh water in the plains of Jericho, and the road from the ford of el Henu to er Riha passes close by. Even in earlier times Arculphus mentions the church of Galgalis (a.d. 700) as 5 miles from Jericho, evidently referring to the same site. It is, however, only fair to notice that Willibald (721 — 727) places it 5 miles from the Jordan ; from it he went to Jericho, 7 miles from Jordan. This would apply to the site of Jiljulieh at el Ithleh, but it would also, though perhaps less easily, apply to Ktisr Hajlah, which is indicated by the earlier author, unless a corruption be thought to have crept into his text. 'The long time during which the camp at Gilgal was maintained points clearly to its having been well supplied with water. There was also perhaps a city on the same site ; although it does not seem by any means certain that this spot was the Gilgal visited by Samuel in his yearly round, which should rather be sought in the mountains ; perhaps at the modern Jiljilia, situate south of Selfit and north of Attara. In any case it becomes, as the early traditions fully recognised, a point of great importance to find a water-supply sufficient for a large host. On visiting Birket Jiljulieh to-day I found a rapid, though muddy, stream flowing right through it. This is generally diverted into other channels for the irrigation of the gardens of Jericho ; but the very existence of a birket shows that the site was once well supplied with water, the most natural source for which would be the 'Ain es Sultan. ' JiljCilieh is on the direct road from the uj^per ford at Kusr es Yehud (St. John on Jordan), about 4^ miles from this point, and i;^ miles from er Riha. The latter distance is exactly that given by Josephus from Jericho, and reading 30 for 50 (a very easy clerical error in the Greek) we get the exact distance from Jordan also correctly. The whole plain is only about 50 stadia broad, and thus the present reading will hardly allow a position for Jericho in the plain. ' The interest of the site is great, not only for its own associations, but as showing the ford by which the Israelites would have prepared to cross the Jordan. Like many other of the sites which date from so remote an anticjuity, in a country subject to continual inroads and devastation, there must naturally be a certain amount of doubt or difficulty attached to its 176 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTIhE. identification, but it seems certain tlmt no site previously fixed ui^on comes so near to tlie fulfilment of all requisites of the case. ' Difficult as it seems to be to fix the site of the later cities of Jewish, Roman, and Byzantine times, there is happily but little doubt as to the position of the Jericho destroyed by Joshua. The " Sultan's Spring," or Fountain of Elisha, is indeed the only natural site for a city in the whole country surrounding it. Three fine springs are found within but a little distance of one another, while the rest of the plain can show but one, and that far less con- siderable. Nothing, indeed, but the curse on the site and the terror inspired by the subsequent fulfilment of that curse could account for the displacement of the city. The flight of the spies to the hills points to the same position. From modern Jericho flight in any direction would be equally dangerous, but from 'Ain es Sultan a deep ravine covered with bushes of the Zakkum and Spina Christi, and filled with a jungle of cane, leads to 'Ain Duk (the ancient Doch or Dagon), at the foot of the cliff of Kuruntiil, amongst whose caves and rocky precipices the two Israelites, flying to "the mountains," might lie hid in safety. ' The ruin at the spring itself seems to be that of a small Roman temple, such as is often found at springheads. Other foundations farther north contain capitals and shafts seemingly Byzantine. In the direction of er Riha, foundations, low mounds, channels for water, and jjortions of roads hidden in the thorny copse which here covers the plain, seem all to point to the former existence of a great town. ' Still farther south, near Wady Kelt, two large mounds or Tells command the road as it descends the narrow pass from Beit Jubr. These have been considered as remains of Roman Jericho; pieces of wall, and perhaps of an aqueduct, with the opus reticulatuin of its masonry, seem to confirm this theory. Close by is the fine reservoir, fed by aqueducts, known as the Birket Musa, measuring about 190 x 160 yards. ' There is a very large number of Tells in the neighbourhood, all of the most important having been examined and excavated by Captain Warren. Of these. Tell el 'Ain el Samarat, Abu Zelef, Abu el Hindi, and el Arais, with the Tullul Abu el Alayj are true Tells, artificial mounds with a central building of unburnt brick. Tell Deir Ghan'am, el Jurn, el Mutlub, Derb el Habaysh, el Kus, el Mefuriyeh and Moghyfir, with others still less important, are but heaps of debris formed by ruins of various date. ' Of our visits to the Hajar el Esbah, to Gumran, and 'Ain Feshkhah, I have nothing myself to relate. Nothing is more striking, however, than the general aspect of the country we have thus passed over. The broad plain, bounded east and west by the steep rocky ranges, at whose feet lie the low marl hillocks of a former geological sea ; the green lawns of grass leading to the lower valley, where in the midst of a track of thick white mud the Jordan flows in a crooked milky stream, through jungles of cane and tamarisk — are all equally unlike the general scenery of Palestine. Round Elijah's fountain a tangled wood of Zakkum, Spina Christi, and near the water an occasional castor-oil plant, spreads out to Jericho. The yellow berries of the deadly solanum appear everywhere. The chorus of birds and the flow of water are sounds equally unusual and charming in the stony wildernesses of the Holy Land. 'The palm groves of Jericho have disappeared since the eighth century. A solitary survivor grows close to the tower of er Riha, and in the valley north of Kusr el Hajlah I met with another clump. When the copses of the fountain are left behind, and the first descent is made into the flat mud valley below the halfconsolidated marl cliffs at Kusr el Hajlah, then we are at once reminded of Josephus's expression, that the Jordan flowed " through a wilderness." The views of the lake— with its shining, oily surface, its salt and sulphurous {SHEET XVni.\ BIBLICAL SITES. ^11 springs, its brown precipices, with the fallen blocks at their feet, its white drift logs, crusted with salt, brought down by the freshets in the river, and now stranded along the crisp, shingly beach — are perhaps even more striking ; whilst the soft shadows and rosy suffused light in early morning, or at sunset, make the trans-Jordanic ranges all an artist could desire to study. ' Were it not that negative information is, next to positive, the most interesting and useful, I should scarcely have touched on this subject, but having carefully examined in person the whole tract from Jordan mouth to the Ras Feshkhah, I do not hesitate to say that, if the cities of the plain were within this area, all trace of them has utterly disappeared. The ruins, which have been described in language not sufficiently moderate for the cause of truth, at Kumran and at Rujm el Bahr, I have visited. The former are probably late ; the heaps of unhewn stone at the latter (which seems to have been at one time the traditional site of the Pillar of Salt, judging from an expression of Maundrel) are, I think, unquestionably natural. A curious artificial Tell — Tell er Rusheidiyeh, situate near the Jordan mouth — is the only evidence of man's work I could find on that side. It is strewn with ancient pottery, iron coloured, and almost iron in hardness. It seems to me certain that the gradual rise of the level of the plain, caused by the constant washing down of the soft marls from the western hills, would effectually cover over any such ruins did they ever exist below the surface. The tract, however, presents literally nothing beyond a flat expanse of semi-consolidated mud. ' I am tempted here to mention a curious possible identification of this point, though perhaps it will not stand criticism. The hill in question is a sharp conical peak, its name signifying, "The Raven's Nest." Two miles north-west of this isaWady and mound, known as the Tuwayl el Diab. Here, then, we have the two famous Midianite leaders' names — Orcb, the Raven ; and Zeeb, the Wolf — in connection, reminding us of the passage (Judges vii. 25) relating that the men of Ephraim "slew Oreb on the rock Oreb, and Zeeb at the winepress of Zeeb." There is nothing in the Bible or Joscphus to show that these places were east of Jordan, and it is (^uite possible that the kings, flying southward to Midian, sought to cross by the fords near Jericho, which had, however, been already seized by their enemies. The only difficulty is in the subsequent passage by Gideon at Succoth higlicr up. The peak is most remarkable, and would be well fitted for a public execution. ' There is another point which might perhaps confirm this idea. Elijah, living by Cherith, was supported, as some suppose, by a tribe of Arabs living at an Oreb, or having that name as an appellation. The proximity of the 'Ash el Ghorab to Wady Kelt, the traditional Cherith, is interesting in connection with such a supposition, and it has been thought that this Oreb might be identical with the rock Oreb in the history of Gideon. I feel, however, that the suggestion is one not to be put forward as more than a possible one. 'The great events of which the Plain of Jericho had in early times been the scene, together with its traditional connection with our Lord's temptation, and actual interest with regard to His baptism, and other events, attracted the Christians of a very early age to this part of the country. Hence the })recipices of Kuruntiil were burrowed with hermit's caves and small chapels, already described by Dr. Tristram, who seems amongst the earliest explorers. We were engaged for a morning in visiting those of most interest, planning the chapels and sketching the old and blackened frescoes on their walls. From Justinian's time the plain began to be covered with monastic edifices ; the splendid cistern of Kiisr el Yehud (St. John on Jordan), mentioned by Procopius as the work of this emperor, is still visible, in an almost perfect condition. The grand aqueduct from the 'Ain es Sultan to it is no doubt of the same date. The cistern is 30 feet deep, and is supported on rows of piers. The aqueduct is VOL, III. 2^ 178 THE SUR VE Y OE WESTERN PALESTINE. merely a long mound, showing hardly a trace of the channel, but running straight as possible through the copse over the flat plain between the mud mounds, until disappearing close to the convent. ' The convent itself was destroyed and rebuilt in the twelfth century, to which date, in all probability, the ruins I have planned belong. The most remarkable point about the building Is the use of an apparently artificial stone, containing flints and fragments of harder stone. The chapel is subterranean ; the outer stones are drafted ; fragments of tesselated pavement remain, and some inscriptions, or graphita, carved on the walls. This famous establishment, with the small chapel on the banks of Jordan belonging to it, are mentioned by almost every traveller of medi£eval times, and the " fair church of St. John the Baptist " was still standing when visited by Sir John Maundeville in 1322, but ruined before the year 1697. ' In the fifth century there was another convent of St. Panteleemon in the plain, and in the twelfth the destruction of one of St. Gerasmius, near the Jordan, is mentioned. At this period of revival the greater number of these constructions were rebuilt, including the convents of St. Calamon and St. Chrysostom. ' It does not appear that either of these names applied to the Kusr el Hajlah, which, however, no doubt dates from the same century. The ruins of this fine old religious fortress are better preserved than those of Kusr el Yehud, and the plan occujaied nearly two days, having never, I believe, been previously taken. Though much shaken by earthquake, its vaults are entire. The apse of the large chapel remains, and the w-hole of the smaller, including the octagonal drum supporting its dome. The surrounding walls are entire, except on the north. The frescoes are much defaced, almost every inscription and all the faces being purposely erased. A certain limit is given to the antiquity of the building by the occurrence of the name of John Elcemon, Patriarch of Jerusalem in 630, attached to a figure. Crusading graphita — the names " Piquet " and " Petre de le Senchal " — are scratched deeply, as though with a dagger, on the haunch of an arch. Tesselated pavement is found in fragments. The kitchen is entire, with its row of little ovens. Other cells, with a sub- terranean chapel, are covered with crosses and religious signs. The most curious frescoes are those representing saints receiving the white resurrection robe from attendant angels. They are fresher in colour, and no doubt later, than those of Kuruntill. ' Tell Mogheifir, the Gilgal of some authors, is the site of another such convent, now entirely destroyed. Scattered stones, with fragments of frescoes and Greek letters, painted pieces of tesselated pavement, a small cistern (well lined), and ruins of aqueduct channels leading to the spot, are all that remains. It seems probable that we have here the site of the convent of St. Eustochium, mentioned by AVilUbald in 721 as in the middle of the plain, between Jericho and Jerusalem, a description applying perfectly if he travelled by the Mar Saba route to the capital. ' Khurbet el Mifjir, north of 'Ain es Sultan, shows ruins excavated by Captain ^\'arren, who found the apse of a chapel pointing south (perhaps the transept of a great church), remains of houses, and a chamber with frescoes ; these have now disappeared. The site covers about 300 yards square, and is evidently that of an important establishment. ' Yet another convent is to be found in the hills overhanging the north side of ^^'ady Kelt, and a small rough chapel in Wady Uubbar marks the site of Deir el iSIukelik. Thus we have five existing ruins, without counting the church mentioned by Sir John jNIaundeville, and still remaining on the summit of Ktiruntul, whilst historically we know of the previous existence of no less than seven, of which, however, only three are identified. {SHEET XVni.] BIBLICAL SJTES. 179 ' Deir Wady Kelt merits a more particular description. Like every other monastery in the hills, it is hung on a precipice. It consists of a series of cells, and a hall supported on vaults, through which lies the entrance. The chapel, perched close to the rock, is not oriented, being in a line of 49° M., but the east window, beside the apse, is so turned as to bear at an angle 90° M. The evident reason of this is the direction of the rock scarp. The rest of the building is not in the same line as the chapel. There are at least three dates discoverable, as two layers of frescoes cover the wall, whilst the inscriptions of the newest are covered in part by the piers supporting the ribs of the roof. The chapel is built of dressed stones, whilst the cells and vaults are of masonry roughly squared. This part bears every sign of twelfth century work. Perhaps the little side chapel, with rock-cut chamber, and the vault containing ancient bones, to which a corridor covered with frescoes representing the Last Judgment leads, is the oldest part of the building. Numerous caves, now inaccessible, are visible in the face of the cliff, which for a distance of 80 feet is covered with frescoes, now almost entirely defaced. One of these cells has at its entrance a heavy iron bar placed vertically, no doubt originally to support a rope or ladder. Like the upper chambers at Kuruntul, this is probably a funeral vault. 'A badly cut inscription in Arabic and barbarous Greek, over the more modern part of the door, commemorates a restoration by a certain Ibrahim and his brothers. 'The examination of the very complicated system of aqueducts which are connected with the old irrigation of the plain, formed one of our principal investigations. I have had a separate plan made of them, and will endeavour to explain their arrangement. There are in all six springs from which the channels are fed, and twelve aqueducts. The springs are 'Ain el Aujeh, 'Ain Nuei'ameh, 'Ain Duk, 'Ain Kelt, 'Ain Farah, and 'Ain es Sultan. From the first of these, situate about 8 miles north of er Riha, a cemented channel follows the course of the AVady el Aujeh on the south side. On gaining the plain it crosses the valley, and runs away north, having no less than five branches running about a mile from it at right angles, at intervals of a quarter to half a mile apart. There is no doubt that this is simply intended for irrigation. One branch leads to a mill. A second and far more important branch leaves the first aqueduct at about miles from its source. It winds away south in a very devious course for 3 J- miles, when it reaches the two springs of 'Ain Duk and 'Ain Nuei'ameh, situate only a few yards apart. It crosses the valley on a curious bridge of many arches, all pointed, and ajjparently late or modern in date. From this point the aqueduct inclines eastward and follows a course equally undulating for upwards of 4 direct miles, passing through various cisterns by Khurbet el Mifjir, and over another bridge with pointed arches, having a well-cut cross on the haunch of one of the arches. A shorter aqueduct from 'Ain es Sultan joins this at Khurbet el Mifjir, and has pipes for the water channel instead of the cemented channel of the other. This devious course terminates at length at a birket called Heydar, a cemented cistern, the total length from 'Ain el Aujeh to this point being over 8 miles. ' We next turn to the acjueduct from 'Ain Duk, which is there joined to the last. It feeds the Tawiihin el Sukker, or Crusading Sugar Mills, and crossing Wady Kelt by a bridge now broken, terminates in the .same ruins, including a birket not far east of Birket Musa. A fourth aqueduct branches from No. 2 (the long one) just before the latter reaches 'Ain Duk, and runs cast to the plain. I feel but little hesitation in attributing these aqueducts, with their branches, to Crusading times, with probable subsequent restoration by Moslem workmen. ' We have next to consider no less than five aqueducts which follow the course of Wady Kelt, three from 'Ain Kelt and two from 'Ain Farah. A single channel runs from tlic i8o THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. former spring, crossing the tributary Wadies by small bridges, and showing a cemented channel. Within a quarter of a mile east of Deir el Kelt, it reaches a fine bridge placed at right angles to its course. This structure, now broken, reaches a height of over 60 feet above the bottom of the ravine. But the aqueduct is at a level nearly 100 feet higher, and is boldly brought down a slide of about half over the face of the rock, and enters the channel of the bridge on a curve. At the first, or north buttress, there seems to have been a shaft, and part of the water descends to a still lower level, and follows the north side of the Wady, passing beneath the convent. The remainder crosses by the bridge, which again turns sharply at right angles, and another shaft allows part of the current to descend some 30 feet, separating into two aqueducts at different levels. Thus from this remarkable bridge we have no less than three channels to follow, without counting the branch which passes above Deir el Kelt at the original level of the single channel, and thus supplies the convent with water. The fact that the water has descended the great shoot is shown by the sedimentary deposits found upon it. The sharp turns were no doubt intended to break the force of the fall, but must have severely strained the bridge by the unequal pressure so produced. The good masonry, round arches, and cement filled with wood ashes, which are remarkable in its structure, seem to point to its having been an early Christian work. I need scarcely say that we carefully measured and examined it throughout. 'To follow the northern aqueduct — it continues to the bottom of the pass, and then turning north, terminates near the Sugar Mills. It has a cemented channel in which pipes are laid. 'The two southern courses flow parallel to the mouth of the pass, where the lower terminates in a birket and the upper disappears. They are structural throughout, and opposite Deir el Kelt there is a fine wall of well-cut masonry, on the top of which the upper aqueduct runs, whilst a channel for the lower exists in its thickness below, the wall being built up against the cliff, which was too precipitous to afford a channel. ' The date of the next two aqueducts is possibly earlier. Side by side they run from 'Ain Farah, follov/ing the south side of Wady Kelt considerably above the last pair. At one point they cross and recross, and in many places they are tunnelled. One of the bridges, a solid and massive structure, placed to carry the high level, at a point where the low level, by a bend, is able to cross without, is remarkable for its rubble masonry pointed with dressed ashlar, for its rough but pointed arches, and for a vault or cistern, probably of Crusading date. A second vault, known as Beit Ji^ibr el Fokani, exists lower down, and here the aqueducts disappear. They run seemingly in tunnels to Beit Jubr el Tahtani, a small fort commanding the opening of the pass, and of Crusading date. Here the upper channel descends by a rapid shoot, and filling the birket immediately south of the fort, runs on to the great Birket Musa, which no doubt it was mainly intended, to supply. The course of the lower channel, which is cemented without pipes, is not so easily made out, and it seems more than probable that the two unite at the tunnel and form one stream. ' Only three more aqueducts remain to trace, which are fed by the 'Ain es Sultan. No. 10, crossing Wady Kelt by a bridge still perfect, with pointed arches (evidently a restoration), is traceable into the neighbourhood of Tell Mogheifir, which it was doubtless intended to supply. Here it is lost, and careful search makes me feel certain that it went no farther south. No. 1 1 is a fragment, also in the neighbourhood of Tell Mogheifir, seeming from its direction to have branched out of No. 12, the great aqueduct from 'Ain es Sultan to Kusr el Yehud (a distance of 6 miles).' — 'Quarterly Statement,' 1874, pp. 36 — 44. {SHEET XVIIL] BIBLICAL SITES. i8i ' With regard to the site Jiljulieh, examined by Lieutenant Conder, there is much to be said. Josephus states it to have been lo stadia from Jericho, and 50 from the Jordan. Now this is impossible, as the whole plain at Jericho is only a little more than 6 miles, or about 50 to 52 stadia wide in this part. Instead, however, of laying, as it is but too much the fashion to do, the fault on Josephus's shoulders, let us see how a copyist's error may have affected the question. Fifty is represented by N, and this is so easily changed to \ (30), that if the case requires it we may do so without much hesitation. 'If the Jericho of Josephus stood near the modern Eriha, these measurements of 30 by 10 stadia exactly suit with the position of Jiljulieh. On the other hand, after hearing the legend from the mouth of one of the Abid, how the Imam 'Ali ibn Taleb, mounted on his horse Maimun, attacked the infidels inhabiting the Medinet el Nahas (City of Brass, which stood near the Shejaret el Ithleh and Jiljulieh), overthrew their walls and slaughtered them, but finding the day too short called out to the sun, ' Enthani ya mubarakeh,' and how the sun turned and stood still over the ridge still called Dhahret el Thentyeh ; after hearing this adaptation of the history of Joshua, I could not rid myself of the suspicion that this legend was derived from Christian sources originally, and consequently that the name Jiljulieh must be accepted with caution. Taking into consideration the fact that there were at least six monasteries in the immediate neighbourhood of Jericho, without reckoning Mar Saba, Deir el Mukelik, and Deir Kharaytun, it is not only possible, but even probable, that Bible histories have by their means been transmitted to the Arabs, who, as is usual in such cases, have transferred the names of the principal persons and places from the unknown to the known. ' Of the monasteries of which we find the ruins, four, namely, Kusr el Yehud, Ktisr el Hajlah, Tell Mogheifir, and Khurbet Mefjir (besides Wady NCiei'amch) are in the plain, and three in the mountains, namely the caves of Kuriintul, Deir Wady Kelt, and Deir el Mukelik. In all of these, except Kusr el Yehiid and Khurbet Mefjir, frescoes more or less defaced have been found. At the former place are several gmp/iific, seemingly in Georgian, one in Greek, of which I could only make out a few letters and the following date (?), which would read 900 + 20-I-90 + 9 - 1019. I may observe that this method of writing a date with several letters, when fewer would have sufficed, fretjuently occurs in the inscriptions I found in the 'Alah (see ' Unexplored Syria,' vol. ii.). At this river there is pretty conclusive evidence that the coarse tesselated pavement was used by the Crusaders in the fact that in tlie U[)per story some of it still remains in siiu over a vault with a pointed arch. ' At Deir el Kelt, Arabic graphite in ordinary character (not Cufic) show that the first frescoes existed up to a comparatively late period. These lower frescoes are much su[)erior in composition to the later ones by which they are covered, these latter being simply mural paintings on coarse plaster. The figures of the various saints have, as usual, their name and quality written above ; one is of some little interest as showing that the monastery of St. Calamon was not then, as now, quite sunk into oblivion. The other names, such as 6 ay/o; uDavagiiii tou uDmvoc, have no interest. The rude bilingual inscription over the door refers to the restoration of the monastery, but gives no date. ' Deir el Mukelik is situated in by far the wildest and most inaccessible spot of all tlie haunts of the holy men of old, who certainly, as I told our Arab Sheikh Jemil, to his great amusement, lived amongst the rocks like the ictil^r (coney or hyrax), which always choose the wildest and ruggedest spots for their liabitat. This monastery is situated in even a wilder spot than that in Wady Kelt. Our road to it from 'Ain es Sultan lay through el Hazim, as l82 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. the downs around Neby Musa are called. Striking the Haj road from this place to Jerusalem, which is kept in good repair on account of the great annual pilgrimage, we rode along almost as far as Rujm Halayseh. Turning to the left, we soon found traces of an ancient path con- structed on the sides of a rough Wady. Leaving our horses, we scrambled down on foot to the ruins, which are situated at the foot of a precipice some 60 feet or 80 feet above the Wady bed. The buildings that remain are small and insignificant; high up on the face of the cliff are two niches of masonry, clinging like swallows' nests to the rock, containing frescoes, one of the Blessed Virgin and the other of the Crucifixion. From the subjects of the paintings I am led to believe that they are not of very ancient date. Below the ruins is a large cistern, and around are several caves which seem to have been used as lairs by the eremites. ' The scene as we sat on the ruins was one of the wildest I have come across in Palestine. Above us towered the ledges and precipices of rust-coloured limestone ; the sky above was wild and covered with storm-scuds, relieved by frequent gleams of sunlight. Beneath us a ruddy torrent formed by the late rains washed and foamed ; griffon vultures sailed majestically down the valley on full-spread wings, flocks of rock-doves dashed by occasionally, and now and again the clear full note of the orange-winged grakle rose startlingly shrill above the murmur of the waters. But for these the silence was unbroken, and not another living creature appeared in the solitude. What an existence must have been that of those who devoted themselves to death in life, to wasting the energies and vital power bestowed on them in droning and sleeping away their time instead of courageously doing their duty in the battle of life, may be seen by those who look deeper than the surface in such convents as Mar Saba, Sta. Katarina in Sinai, and others similar. ' It was almost by chance that we discovered the fact that a monastery, or at all events a church, had existed at Tell Mogheifir. Some stones had lately been dug up by the natives, and on turning over one of these I found a portion of fresco containing a few Greek letters attached to it. 'The existence of the apse of a small chapel on the summit of this mountain is well known, but I am not aware that the remains of the strong Crusading fortress beside it, with its steep glacis and rock-hewn fosse on the land side, have ever been described. The main building — of which only the outer walls are traceable — is about 250 feet long by 100 feet wide. On the north, east, and south, it is protected by the precipitous cliffs. Westwards a crescent- shaped ditch — now much filled with debris — has been cut in the rock. I could find no trace of any cistern or reservoir, which must, however, have existed, as there is no water nearer than that of 'Ain Duk, which flows some 900 feet below. 'A similar fortress, also cut off" from the land side by a fosse, is to be seen— but in even a more ruinous condition than that on Jebel Kuruntul — on the extreme edge of the hills on the north side of Wady Kelt. De Saulcy called it Beit bint el Jebeil, but this name is not known at all. After much trouble I succeeded in finding the true name to be Nuseib el 'Aweishireh. ' Most of the Christian ruins near Jericho are built of a soft oolitic limestone, which seems all to have been quarried at Khitrbet el Siimrah, an extensive ruin some 4 miles north of Eriha. Here the quarries and quarry caves are extensive, and probably date from a very early period. The oolite here is overlaid by beds of stratified mud and conglomerate con- taining flints and water-worn stones. ' Khurbet Kumr;'n lies 2 miles north of 'Ain Fcshkhah, on a spur at the base of the cliffs. The ruins are rude, and consist of a wall to the east 3 the steep slopes to the south and west {SHEET XVIII.] BIBLICAL SITES. 183 seeming to have been considered sufficient protection in themselves, while to the north the ground is occupied by a collection of buildings, now an indistinguishable mass of rude stones. A small birket lies between this ruin and the wall, and like all the other remains, is built of unhewn stones, which are packed with smaller ones and roughly plastered. The most remarkable feature at this spot is the enormous number of graves which lie beside it. I computed them at from 700 to 750, including some outliers on two adjoining hillocks. Those south of the ruin lie 20' east of north, the head being to the south. They are arranged in regular rows, and close together, and are all covered with a paving, or rather roofing, of uncut stones : a large upright stone marks the head, and a somewhat smaller one the feet. On digging into one of these in company with M. Ganneau, we found, at the depth of 41 inches, sun-dried bricks, 15 by 11 inches and 9 inches thick, overlying the body. The bones were much decayed, and I could only obtain some teeth, which were unusually large and in good condition. No objects of any kind were found in the grave. On digging into another tomb we failed to find anything at a similar depth, and were prevented from carrying on our researches further by the approach of night. ' The curious regularity of the graves, their position — so unlike that employed by either Christians or Moslems — and the use of sun-dried brick, renders the identification of the place a puzzle which seems likely to remain unsolved, as no inscription or even worked stone was to be seen amongst the untrimmed materials used. The only thing besides pottery that I found was a small nearly defaced copper coin, presumably Jewish. 'The pleasant clear weather, with cool breeze and warm but not hot sun, which succeeded the first rains, and the verdant appearance of the country, rendered the first fortnight of our stay at 'Ain es Sultan very enjoyable. This agreeable weather, however, is perhaps the most unhealthy part of the year ; and so it proved to us. Fourteen men out of seventeen connected with the Survey suffered from more or less severe attacks of fever. The change, however, to the high level of Jerusalem, and the great kindness and attention received there by those who were ill, has restored the whole party to their state of wonted health. 'The climate of Jericho would seemingly have changed since the days of Josephus, or more probably the surplus irrigation was not then, as now, suffered to become stagnant pools, causing malaria and fever. The great Jewish historian in many passages vaunts the wonderful fertility of the place, and calls it 6u()v "xjliiiov, a region fit for the gods. At present the luxuriance of vegetation is almost tropical, but the inhabitants are lazy, dissolute, and incapable of continuous work. As the governor of the village told me, ' to rouse them you must take a stick, to make them work a kiirbaj ' (cowhide). All kinds of vegetables, such as tomatoes, vegetable-marrows, etc., are in season all the year round. Grapes grow to a great size, the vines being trained over trellises supported on poles 4 feet high, as in some parts of the Pyrenees, and occasionally in North Italy. Indigo flourishes, but is seldom cultivated ; sugar, too, and cotton, would doubtless succeed. Sloth, however, and indolence on the part of the Government and peasants, now reign supreme, where a little care in drainage and steady cultivation might annually raise produce of equal value with the revenues of all the rest of Palestine. The timber, too, beside the Jordan, might with but little trouble be made to supply a great deficiency in the Jerusalem market, where nothing whatever but foreign timber can be procured, and that at a high rate ; for in addition to the transport from Jaffa, which is longer than that from tiie Jordan, the sea carriage must also be considered.' — • 'Quarterly Statement,' 1874, pp. 71 — 75. 'Next day we went to the presumed site of Gilgal, which wc had not been able to visit on THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. our first journey to Jcriclio, the existence and the name of which I had spoken of to Lieutenant Conder. This place, situated not far from Tell el Ithleh (or Hithleh), has been pointed out to several travellers (Zschokke and Frere Lievin) under the name of Jiljulieh. The people of Eriha told us that this was a name peculiar to the Franks. However that may be, we tried a few httle excavations in the mounds of el Ithleh and Jiljulieh ; these were not deep, and led to no great results. In the first, a large quantity of pottery fragments, cubes of mosaic, and lots of glass ; in the second, sand. It is certain that there was once an edifice here of con- siderable importance, to judge by the mosaics. But that proves nothing for or against the identification of Gilgal,'which appears to me still a doubtful point.' — M. Clermont Ganneau, ' Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 170. Non-Biblical Sites. In addition to the sites mentioned above there are a few which are un- connected with Bible history. E b a 1 and G e r i z i m were held in the fourth century to be near Jericho. (See 'Quarterly Statement, October, 1876, p. 183.) It seems probable that the two points intended by Jerome (' Onomasticon,' s.v. Gebal and Golgol), are the remarkable conical summits, T uweil el 'A k a b e h and N u s e i b 'A w e i s h i r e h, on either side of the pass. The title of the latter may be thought to have a connection with the tradition of Joshua's altar on Ebal ; and the name, Bint J e b e i 1, collected by M. de Saulcy, as referring to the ruin on the summit (see Section B), may perhaps retain a trace of the Gebal of Jerome. Cypros. — A fort built by Herod above Jericho; is possibly Beit Jiibr et Tahtani. (See Section B.) (Ant. xvi. 5, 2 ; B. J., ii. 18, 6.) The present buildings are of later origin, but the original fortress was demolished in the time of Agrippa. M o n s M a r d e s. — A lofty site near the Dead Sea, with a well and ruins. (' Acta Sanctorum,' ii. 306.) This is probably K h iTi r b e t M i r d. (Cf Rel. Pal, p. 879.) St. Euthymius in the fifth century found founda- tions and a well. Ouarantani a. — The mountain above Jericho (Kuruntul) was pointed out from the twelfth century downwards as the site of our Lord's Temptation. (Robinson, ' Biblical Researches,' ii. 303.) It must not, however, be confused with the ' high mountain ' which was shown as that mentioned in the Gospel. Soewulf (1102 a.d.) speaks of this as 3 miles [SHEET XVIII.] NON BIBLICAL SITES. from Jericho, and Fetellus (Du Vogue, ' Iiglises,' p. 429) places it ' Secunclo miliaris a Quarantena contra Galileam.' These distances fit with those of the prominent peak, 'Osh el Ghurab, and the name of the valley leading from it, W a d y M esaadet 'Aisa (Valley of the Ascent of Jesus), is no doubt connected with this tradition. Z u k. — The place where the scapegoat was precipitated, (Yoma, vi. 4.) The distance from Jerusalem points to the high mountain, el M u n t a r, and the name B i r e s S 11 k, belonging to a well on this mountain, repre- sents the Hebrew. ' There is no ceremony of the law of Moses which possesses greater interest to scholars than that on the Day of Atonement when the " scapegoat " (as the Authorised Version has rendered it) was sent out into the wilderness. ' It is not my object to enter into the question ot the true meaning of the term " the goat for 'Azazel" which represents the Hebrew text (Leviticus xvi. 8), or to inquire whether this word is properly to be connected with the demon of that name who was supposed to inhabit deserted and ruined places, and to have been a fallen angel teaching many arts to mankind (Book of Enoch, chap. viii.). The name is still applied (according to Gesenius) by some Arab tribes to an evil genius, but it is sufficient here to take the words of Josephus that the goat was " sent out of their coasts to the desert for an expiation and a supplication for the sins of the whole multitude" (Antiq. iii. 10, 3). ' According to the original law, the scapegoat was set free, and went away into the wilder- ness, but we learn from the Talmud that on one occasion a scapegoat found its way back to Jerusalem, and this was considered so ominous that an innovation was made, and the goat was effectually prevented from taking so unusual a course by being precipitated from the top of a lofty mountain. ' The tract Yoma of the Mishna, devoted to the ceremonies of the great Day of Atone- ment, gives a full iccount of the ceremony as performed at the later period. The high priest stood in the temple court with the two goats " for Jehovah " and " for Azazel " before him. To the horns of the latter he bound a tongue-shaped scarlet cloth to distinguish it, and the lots were then cast, it being considered of good omen if the lot for Jehovah fell in the right hand. 'The reason of the red cloth was, according to Maimonides, to distinguish the goat, but the doctors of the Gemara, ever- anxious to put an unnatural meaning to every act, quoted the passage, "though your sins be as scarlet, they shall be white as snow" (Isaiah i. 18), and asserted that the atonement was not acceptable to God unless the scarlet cloth turned white, which it ceased to do forty years before the destruction of Jerusalem. ' The goat, when chosen, was sent out with a special messenger to a place called Tzook, and passed on the road another place called Beth Hidoodoo. The passage in the Mishna runs as follows : — ' Yoma, chap. vi. : ' " (4) And the nobles of Jerusalem went with him to the first tabernacle, for there were ten tabernacles between Jerusalem and Tzook, and 90 stadia (A'/jt), and 7^ stadia were I mile {AIil). VOL. III. 24 i86 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. ' " (5) At every tabernacle they said to him, Behold food, behold waters {Mi/ii), and they went with him from one tabernacle to the next, except at the last, for they did not go with him to Tzook, but stood afar off and watched what he did. ' " (6) What did he do ? He divided the scarlet tongue, and placed half upon the rock and tied half between the horns of it (the goat), and he pushed it (the goat) backwards, and it rolled and fell down, and or ever it was half down the mountain every bone of it was broken. And he went and sat under the last tabernacle till the evening ' " (8) And they said to the high priest, ' The goat has reached the desert.' And how did they know that he had reached the desert ? They made watchtowers on the road, and waved cloths, and knew that the goat had reached the desert. Rabbi Jehuda said, ' Was not this the great sign ; from Jerusalem to the entrance of the desert (Beth Hidoodoo) was 3 miles? They went i mile and returned, and counted for i mile, and they knew that the goat had reached the desert' The foreign legend. Rabbi Ismail said, Was not this the sign, they tied the red tongue to the gates of the temple, and when the goat had reached the desert it became white, since it is said, ' Though your sins be as scarlet, they shall be white as snow '?" * We may here examine the three topographical terms here used. ' T/ie A'^if';-/.— Midbar, " wilderness." The word has, according to Dean Stanley, the idea of a wide open space without pasture. It is applied in the Bible (Joshua xv. 6i) to a district including the northern shores of the Dead Sea, and extending at least to Engedi, and, on the west, apparently to the vicinity of Bethlehem. The distance from Jerusalem to the entrance was 3 miles, and Tzook in this desert was 1 2 Jewish miles from the capital, and probably on some important road. ' Tzook comes from a root meaning " narrow," and equivalent, according to Gesenius, to the Arabic Dak spelt with Dad. According to Bartenora, the term applies to any prominent and lofty mountain, but it is generally taken to be a proper name, and in this view Maimonides, commenting on the passage, agrees.* A precipitous mountain, probably a narrow ridge but lofty, and easily seen from a distance, with a road leading to it from Jerusalem, is required evidently at a distance of 12 Jewish miles from the capital, somewhere in the direction of the eastern desert. '■Beth Hidoodoo. — The word stands Beth Horon in the Jerusalem Talmud, which appears to be a corruption. In the Targum of Jonathan on Leviticus xvi. the same, no doubt, is intended by Beth Hidoori, spelt with the He. Buxtorf translates the word, as does Suren- husius, "the entrance to the desert." The root has, however, the meaning "to be sharp," and the word Hidoodiiii means " wrinkles." This term would apply well to the knife-like ridges of the desert east of Jerusalem. ' The circumstances of the case may not perhaps allow of very certain identification, as it is doubtful whether either word is to be ' taken as a proper name ; but there are indications which may perhaps point to the exact spot. * In another passage (' Mishna Baba Metzia,' yii. 10) the word also occurs in the plural, // rasi tzookhi, and in this case also Maimonides takes the word to apply as a proper name to Tzook, the ' Scapegoat Mountain.' It is worthy of notice that the Arabic name Stik, under the feminine form Suk'/ye/i, applies to a narrow ridge, Dhahret Sukiyeh ; a valley, Wady Sukiyeh ; and a well, Bir Sukiyeh, in the same desert 4 miles east of Neby Yiikin. The distance from Jerusalem prevents identification with Tzook, but the origin of the name is probably the same. [SHEET XVIII.'] NON-BIBLICAL SITES. 187 ' The ancient road from Jerusalem to the desert, and to the curious ruin of Mird (Mens Mardes), is now traced throughout. At the distance of some 6 Enghsh miles from Jerusalem it reaches a long, narrow ridge, running north and south, having extremely steep sides and deep gorges running northwards, separated on the west by the AVady of ed Dekakin, and on the east overlooking the Bukei'a, or tableland above the Dead Sea. This ridge culminates in the high point called el Muntar, about half a mile farther east, and is bounded on the north by the precipitous valley of Mukelik, above which, a little farther north, is the peak called el Haddeidun. 'The name Hidoodoo, which, as we have seen above, means sharp or knife-edged, is applied to two points in the same district, under the Arabic equivalent form Haddadiyeh, having an identical meaning, and the term Haddeidun is not improbably a corruption of the Hebrew Hadudim. Thus the Beth Hidoodoo would be the entrance to the district of sharp ridges which is peculiar to this part of Palestine. ' It is remarkable also that there are a series of wells, at the average distance of f of a mile apart, all along the ancient road to this ridge ; and, finally, it is still more interesting to find one of these, the first upon the ridge itself, bearing the name Sfik. ' This name has been collected by Mr. Drake as written with Sin, in which case it may be rendered " well of the market," though why a well in the middle of the desert should be so called is not apparent. The Shi and Sad are, however, so closely allied that they are not unfrequently confused, and some words (such as Sunt, the acacia) may be written with either. Curiously enough, this is the case with all words from the root Sak, including Sitk. (See " Freytag Lex.") Spelt with the Sad, the Arabic is the exact equivalent of the Hebrew Tzook for the last letter is a Kof, representing the Hebrew Koph. ' The antiquity of these wells is certainly considerable. Many of them are reservoirs hewn in the rock with great care and labour. They exist in a part of the country quite uncultivated, and are evidently intended for travellers along the road, which also shows marks of antiquity, being hewn in the face of the cliff in parts. The exact length of the Hebrew mile it is not easy to determine, but the Ris, as determined from Maimonides, appears to have been 125 yards, which would give 6)^ English miles as the total distance from Jerusalem to Tzook. This brings us to the summit of el Muntar, and the Bir es Suk may be supposed to mark the site of the last tabernacle. ' These indications seem to point to the ridge of el Muntar as representing the Tzook of the Talmud, and the exact point whence the scapegoat was rolled down into the valley beneath.' — Lieutenant Conder, 'Quarterly Statement,' 1876, pp. 164 — 167. Roads. — The main lines of communication are : ist, the Roman road along the Jordan valley ; 2nd, the Hill roads ; 3rd, the Pilgrim road. Roman Road along the Jordan Valle y. — This road is shown in the Peutinger Tables (393 a.d.) as starting from Jericho. The traces of the ancient cobble pavement are visible in places along the plain. The construction is specially noted under the head Khurbet Fiisail. (Sheet XV,) The road is traceable south from 'A i n es Sultan. It crossed Wady Kelt by the Roman bridge near Tellul 24 — 2 i8S THE SUR VE V OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Abu el 'Aleik, (Section B.) Here the road down the pass joins, but there was also an ancient road southward to the Bukeia. This road ascends into the hills by the B i r U mm el F u s, and is remark- able for the fine engineering which directs it down the steep hill slopes (descending 1,200 feet in 5 miles, with a gentle gradient), and for the various large reservoirs, such as the well above-mentioned, the B 1 r e s S u k and others, which have been hewn in the rock beside the road to supply travellers. The road passes west of K h li r b e t M i r d ; it is at various points carried through cuttings in the hill-side. It runs round the summit of el M u n t a r on the south, crossing by a narrow neck or saddle, and thus extends to Jerusalem. (Sheet XVII.) The road in the Jordan valley is directed in a fairly straight line north- ward, close to the foot of the downs, which lie north of 'A i n e s Sultan, thus avoiding the deeper part of the great valleys which cross the plain. Hill Road s. — A shorter line of communication with Jerusalem ascends the pass of Wady Kelt. The part immediately above the plain has a steep gradient, and the rock on the south side has been scarped. The general course is carefully engineered. A Roman milestone exists on the road (D ab b u s el 'A b d). The present road ascends 1,350 feet in 5 miles to the high top called T a 1 a t e d D u m m, through a pass cut in the rock, and passes south of the higher part of the hill, on which the fortress stands. The road then again descends 200 feet in i mile in a winding course, with rock-cut steps and artificial scarps, into the flat ground west of the Khan Hathrurah and thence again leads up to Jerusalem. This course does not, however, appear to be that of the original Roman road, which was directed by a detour southward past Khan el A h m a r, thus avoiding the steep ascent to T a 1 a t e d D u m m. The line from Khan el Ahmar is directed north-west, joining the present road in the valley near 'Arak Abu el Kara. The second hill road is that leading from Jericho to Bethel. It ascends the hills on the north side of Wady el Kelt from near S h u k h e d D u b a and passes along the side of the ridge above. A path here joins it, which comes down the face of the cliffs south of Kurunttil. The road runs up Wady Rijan to the ridge called Ras et Tawil, whence its course is traced on Sheet XVII. {SHEET XVI/L] HO ADS. A third Roman road runs down from the north to 'A i n D u k from Taiyibeh. (Sheet XIV.) The Pilgrim Roa d. — A broad road leads south of Wady Kelt to the Makhadet Hajlah. It descends by the Talat ed D u m m, diverging from the road of the Wady Kelt pass and going down 'Akabet esh Sherif. It passes through Wady Medhbah 'A i y a d. On the plain it is a broad beaten track, not a made road, going past 'A i n Hajlah to the Jordan. The second pilgrim road is called Derb er Ruajib and leads to N eby M usa, which is annually visited by a large band of Moslem pilgrims. From Neby Musa a path leads into the plain by the winding descent called M a r a d d Hani. This road joins the Roman road at Khan el Ahmar. On the Roman road, near B i r U m m el F u s, there are m e s h a- hed, or little piles of stones erected by the pilgrims to Neby M (i s a. The ordinary route for travellers coming by Mar Saba descends into the B u k e i d and joins the Roman road near Jebel KahmCi m. The course thence is directed along the south side of the great valley (Wady el Kaneiterah), which is crossed at e 1 Kueiserah. Travellers generally continue along the course of the valley eastward to the B e 1 a w e t e d h D h c h e i b a n. From the Dead Sea there is a track to K u s r Hajlah and thence to Makhadet Hajlah. Cultivation. — The country described is a desert. The only cultiva- tion is in the neighbourhood of E r i h a and in the irrigated gardens amongst the thickets north-west of the village. In these gardens every kind of vegetable is grown, tomatoes, vegetable marrows, beitinjan kuza, etc. A little indigo is also grown. The grapes, trained on trellises four feet high, grow to good size. Wheat and barley is also of good quality. The wild vegetation has already been noticed. SHEET XVIII.— SECTION B. Arcileology. 'A i n es Sultan (O s). — See Jericho, Section A, and Tell es Sultan, Section B. 'A i n e d D u k (O r). — Near this spring a tomb was examined in the side of the hill. It is a chamber with 21 kokiiii in two tiers. There are other caves near it, and broken sarcophagi. The one excavated measures 16 feet by 17 feet. The lower tier contains three kokini at the back, and 4 each side. The upper tier has only three on the left hand side. The kokiin are 2 feet wide, 6 feet S inches long, and 3 feet 4 inches high. Near the same place were found two shafts 3 feet long and 2 feet 8 inches diameter. Beit Jubr el Fokani is merely a single vault with a pointed arch. The vault is of rubble, the walls of small masonry. It may possibly date back to Crusading times, but there is no indication of date. Beit Jiibr et Tahtani(0 s). — A small fort on the south side of the Jerusalem road, commanding the ascent from the Jericho plain. The building stands on a rock-scarp artificially formed, and consists of a single tower 25 feet by 12 feet interior measurement. On the east is a doorway with a low pointed arch having a keystone. Above the doorway a loophole. On the south is another entrance. The roof, which is broken in, consisted of a simple barrel-vault, semicircular, of rubble and thin undressed stones wedged together. On the outside the corner stones are drafted with a rude draft and smooth boss (resembling the masonry of Khurbet Ikbala, Sheet XVI I.). The south door has been built up at a later {SHEET XVIIL] ARCHEOLOGY. 191 period, drafted stones being used up in the work. On the west the tower is defended by a fosse, separating the scarp on which it stands from the hill. Immediately south of the fort is a small ruined birkeh, which was fed by an aqueduct. (See Wady Kelt.) This reservoir is formed by a dam across the valley, built of strong rubble work. A pillar-shaft lies near it. The aqueduct descends to this level by a sudden shoot, visible beside the road immediately west of the tower. The general appearance of this ruin resembles the Crusading work at Kuryet el 'Enab, Khan Hathrurah and other places. It is of course possible that the place may be a reconstruction on an older site, and that the rock-cutting may be earlier. The birkeh resembles on a small scale the Birket es Sultan at Jerusalem, constructed by the Germans in the twelfth century. (See Cypros, Section A.) Visited 24th November, 1873. Bir Abu Shudleh (N t). — A well with water-troughs close to a large cavern cut in the rock north of the well, and resembling Miigharet Umm el Hummam. Birket Jiljulieh (P s). — This pool is 150 yards south-east of the Shejeret el Ithlch, a fine tamarisk. It is quite choked with soft soil. The walls are about 2 feet 6 inches thick, of water-worn cobbles taken from some watercourse, averaging from 6 to 18 inches diameter, and well packed. The cement is all gone. The pool is rectangular, and measures 40 paces by 30. The style of work is similar to that found in Byzantine ruins (such as el Murussiis, Sheet XVI I.). Northof this pool there is an Arab graveyard, and many hewn stones have been used up as head- stones to the graves. Scattered stones, hewn, but averaging not more than 2 to 3 feet in length, lie near. East of the pool are the mounds called et Teleilat, about a dozen in all, some 8 to 10 feet in diameter and 3 or 4 feet high. These when excavated proved to contain fragments of pottery and glass, sand and tesserae. There are sufficient traces to indicate that a large building once existed near the pool, and by comparison with other ruins, such as Tell Mogheifir, it is probable that there was a convent on the spot, (See Gilgal, Section A.) Visited November, 1873, February, 1874, January, 1875, October, [880. 192 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Birket Musa (O s).— A large pool fed by an aqueduct (see Wady Kelt) measuring- 660 by 490 feet. The walls are only about 5 to 6 feet high, but the reservoir is probably much filled up. The masonry is small, but the walls are nearly 10 feet thick. The pool appears to have belonged to the system of aqueducts which lead to it, and to be of the same date. D abb us el 'A b d (O s).— A column-shaft beside the road, apparently a Roman milestone. Deir el Kelt (O s). — A ruined monastery perched in the side of a perpendicular precipice on the north bank of Wady Kelt. (See Plan.) It is approached from the east, on which side is a narrow plateau (120 feet east and west, 30 feet broad) having above it a cliff. For over 80 feet in length this cliff is covered with cement, which was once painted in fresco, with figures now obliterated. In the cliff above the monastery are caves, now inaccessible. In one an iron bar was visible, probably once used for fixing a rope or rope-ladder, by which a communication with the hermit in the cell might be effected. The monastery itself shows three distinct dates of building. The edifice includes an entrance-hall with vaults below, a chapel and cells. The chapel is not in the same axis with the rest of the buildings, and appears to be earlier. The masonry in it is better dressed than in the rest of the work. The chapel is 36 feet long by 17 feet broad, interior measure. Its bearing is 45°. At the east end is an apse 7 feet diameter ; this has a window in the side placed askew, so as to have a bearing 90"", or due east. Behind [SHEET XVm.] ARCH.EOLOGY. 193 the chapel is a small chamber having a tomb beneath the floor, cut in the rock, and containing remains of bones much decayed. This chamber has also an apse. The small cell beyond this is cut in rock, and measures 10 feet by 13 feet, A corridor leads from the south door of the main chapel to the smaller chapel. The buttresses in the large chapel are evidently later additions, for they are built across the second series of frescoes ; they support the ribs of the vault, and they are of finely dressed ashlar. The interior walls of the chapel, of the corridor, and of the small chapel behind, are all covered with cement and painted in fresco, with figures and inscriptions. Two sets of these frescoes are visible in places ; the older are much defaced, but appear to have been better executed, and resemble those in the chapels on J e b e 1 K u r u n t u 1. The inscriptions are as follows, the letters referring to the plan. They belong to the later period. I St. In the chapel at A. The figure of a saint holding a cross in his hand, and the head surrounded with a nimbus, with the following title round it. This, with the remaining inscriptions, is written in capitals in a character the date of which is discussed under the heading Jebel Kuruntul. 0 ayioq A.0ava(7ioq tov aOwvog. At the point B is the figure of a saint holding a roll with a defaced inscription on it. Round the nimbus is the title : The Holy John of Chozeboth. Above are figures of angels much defaced. The cement on which the fresco is painted was observed here to have bits of chopped straw in it. On the roll in the saint's hand was written : X 'P'> ----- a V VOL. III. 25 194 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. The point marked C shows a defaced picture with two inscriptions : + Ol 0(/t£l'(Ul' - - - Kai Trarpiap-^MV aWlKp - - - - /C(U(T>} - - - - I'XaKM - - - - - - /iU'OT - - - - - - - Oavv, The lower fragment beneath the picture : Ol'O love - - - (Otp TOl> tll'Cl - - - aKOCFTOl'TpOg ■^povov. The apse of the chapel is ornamented with a conventional pattern of Vandykes, green and yellow. There are two square tablets painted with crosses flanked by letters now effaced. Over the niche at D, is the following inscription : - - - oi'Oia/(oi'fiii' V tK Tiov — - a(JTciX(oi' ^^f^ui (k oro^tw - - ov avXov ajuw. Evidently a prayer. In the niche is another inscription, apparently a gloria. At the point E is the figure of a saint holding a book. On either side of the nimbus the tide 0 ayiog o tov KaXa/iovou r£pa(niJ,og. 'The Holy Gerasimus of Calamon.' Perhaps Kulmon near Jerusalem, Sheet XVII., or Calamon near Jericho. On the book is an inscription which is almost illegible. At the point marked F on the plan is a design with a large central figure. The head is a man's, the figure appears to be throned, and has a plate on the breast. On the left is a female saint ; on the right two male saints, the further in the act of benediction. At the point G a saint holding a roll with defaced inscription. Round the nimbus the inscription 0 AyiOQ JioaKBip. o Trarrjp t>jc Ocotokov. ' The Holy Joachim, father of the Virgin.' {SHEET XVIII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 195 \ At H is a fresco representing the Virgin Mary, the hands raised, the palms towards one another ; on the breast a circle containing the head and shoulders of a smaller figure, representing our Lord, having the usual nimbus with a cross upon it. The face of the Virgin has been purposely obliterated. Round the nimbus is the inscription : ' The Mother of God.' Beneath this design remains of the older frescoes are visible. At the point I is the figure of a saint and of a cherub painted on the intrados of the arch. Over the head of the saint is the title ; - parid^io - - Tov Ayiov IwaKi/u. Beneath the angel : o AyyeXoc Kvpiov, ' The Angel of the Lord' The saint being St. Joachim. At K, at the back of the chapel, are designs representing the Entomb- ment, the washing of the Apostles' feet, and the death of the Virgin ; beneath are effaced inscriptions and geometrical patterns. The north wall of the corridor is covered with a design representing the Last Judgment. The chapel behind on the east has also frescoes on the walls. Over the north door leading into the cells are the figures of St. Joachim and of St. Anne, with inscriptions, and beneath a subject, apparently the Agony. Above the two saints arc two hands coming out of clouds in the position of benediction. In the apse niche is a cross with inscription : In the smaller niche on the right I c X C A V right I C X c N G € K A 25—2 \ 196 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. The vault, or tomb, beneath this chamber was full of bones and skulls. Just north, at a higher level outside the chapel, there are rock-cut cells and niches covered with cement, on which yellow crosses of all sizes are painted in great numbers, perhaps representing visits of pilgrims. The inscriptions and frescoes thus described are evidently mediaeval, Grajfiti in the modern Arabic character are visible on the lower or older layer of plaster, perhaps previous to the date of the restoration and of the second inscriptions. But on the other hand the interior buttresses A£A of the chapel cut these designs and inscriptions across. They are of well- dressed stone, and as old as the roof. It would seem probable that the chapel had been built near the hermits' cave, and afterwards restored when the rest of the monastery was erected in the Middle Ages. For the argument as to date, see J e b e 1 K u r u n t li 1. The entrance-hall or tower measures 10 feet by 30 feet, and has a gate in its east wall, which also seems to be of two dates. The wall and the pointed archway with keystone, and masonry drafted like that at K h u r b e t I k b a 1 a, has every appearance of Crusading work when compared with other monuments. This archway is filled in with good masonry, and a low door scarcely high enough to creep through is surmounted by a flat lintel, above which {SHEET XV III.] ARCHEOLOGY. 197 is a low relieving arch, the stones of which are drafted and well cut. Above this is a very barbarous inscription in Arabic and Greek, and a loophole over the. inscription. Part of the text is very doubtful, but seems to belong to the Greek, unless it contains the date. The Greek is rendered by M. Ganneau : AviKtviaOr] - - r) /to Sia yif^oq Kai Tovq a^iXfovc; avTOvq The translation is, ' Was repaired the .... monastery by the hand of Brachim and of his brothers . . . .' The Arabic is even worse carved than the Greek ; it reads, ' This . . . . was made by Ibrahim and his brothers .... Musa el Jufnawi (the man of JCifna), may God be merciful to them and .... and he said Amen.''" The vault beneath this chamber has a simple barrel-roof not older than the twelfth century, and resembling the roof at Beit Jiibr. The cells and all the buildings are of rudely squared undrafted stones of moderate masonry. It would appear probable that this work is of the Crusading period, resembling the walls of the church at Kuryet el 'Enab. We have thus indications of the various dates of the buildings : f I St. The chapel and the original frescoes, dating possibly back to the early Christian period (fifth century). 2nd. The monastery, the vaults, and the second scries of frescoes. * The second word in the Arabic is almost illegible. It was thought by Mr. C. F. Tyrwhitt Drake and myself to be en A'a/i/, which means ' Gift ' or ' Dowry.' Thus we have in another direction Deir Nahleh (Sheet XVII.), which may be rendered, 'The En- dowed Monastery.' t Tobler identifies the Deir el Kelt with a convent of St. John of Chozeboth. With regard to the names Calamon and Gerasimus, a monastery of St. Calamon existed somewhere in the neighbourhood of Jericho in the twelfth century, and another of St. Gerasimus was undermined by Jordan. (Phocas, 22 — 24, as quoted, 'Biblical Researches,' ii. 270.) Pere Lievin ('Guide,' p. 382) also speaks of this monastery as that of the anchorite John of Chozeboth, and mentions a medieval tradition that St. Joachim retired to this spot. This accounts for the three frescoes of St. Joachim and that of John of Chozeboth on the ^Mls. \ 198 THE SUR VE Y OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Probably Crusading, from evidence of the character employed in the inscriptions. 3rd. The restoration of Ibrahim and Musa of the town of Jufna, which is still a Christian village. A squeeze of the inscription over the door was taken by M. Ganneau. The aqueducts and the fine masonry of J i s r e d D e i r, near the monas- tery, indicate that the site is an old one. (Cf, Wady Kelt.) Visited 26th November, 1873. The inscription over the door is given with a slight difference by Ganneau : ' The afternoon was devoted to visiting, with Mr. Drake and M. Lecomte, the convent of Deir el Kelt, situated in the wildest part of the Wady of the same name, the plan of which had been taken a few days before by Lieutenant Conder. I went there principally to take the squeeze of a Greek and Arabic inscription which Lieutenant Conder had found and copied. In order to reach the place we followed on foot the aqueduct which descends the Wady on the north side. The road was as bad as possible, and the heat considerable. ' There is nothing very remarkable about the convent ; the frescoes which decorate the interior of the church and the ruined chapel appear to belong to several periods. They are covered with graffiti, painted or engraved. The only detail which struck me was that the church having no orientation, on account of the direction of the rock to which it clings, the builders had to compensate for this infraction of the rules of religious architecture by placing sideways the window of the apse, of which the two sides (themselves oblique) form between them, and with the apse itself, such angles that the mean axis of the window is directed exactly towards the east. Symmetry is thus unhesitatingly sacrificed to the exigencies of custom. ' The inscription spoken of is over the entrance. It is bilingual, and probably of a late period. The Greek is exceedingly incorrect in orthography and in syntax. It is, besides, negligently carved, and very difficult to decipher. ' This is what I have read of it up to the present : + AN0EKEN + was dedicated . . . AIAXIPOC by the hand BPAXIMTOUCA of Ibrahim and his AEA^OTCatTOTC .... brothers, xn ' While the Arabic inscription reads as follows : " This . . . has been built by Ibrahim and his brothers . . Moussa from Jifne (?) . . May God hold them in his mercy. And he said : Amen." ' Perhaps the Arabic word which I cannot translate refers to the building of the gate itself.' — 'Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 88. Deir el Mukelik (O t). — A smaller monastery of the same character with the last, near the bottom of the valley of the same name- on the north side. A small square building, built against the cl'-iffj {SHEET XVIII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 199 about 70 feet above the bed of the valley, remains. In the cliff are hermit cells. There are also remains of a tesselated pavement and several rock-cut domed cisterns. In the rock there are two niches, cemented and painted with a fresco, representing the Virgin, and another of the Cruci- fixion. A vertical shoot cut in the rock communicates with one cistern. This building has also been rebuilt at a later period, as the tesselated pavement has been built over. Visited 27th November, 1873. H aj r el Asbah (O t). — Though a natural feature, may be here here enumerated. It is a large block, about 9 feet high, cracked in the middle, measuring 1 1 feet 7 inches one side, 5 feet 4 inches the second, 10 feet 10 inches the third, 15 feet the fourth ; one angle is rudely square. The theory connected with this stone by M. Clermont Ganneau is noticed in the 'Quarterly Statement,' April, 1871, p. 105. The stone is evidently a block fallen from the cliffs above. Other smaller blocks exist near. Another stone of the same name will be found in Sheet XII. Both are of a rusty colour, streaked with white. Visited 29th November, 1873. The 'Stone of Bohan the Son of Reuben' (Joshua xv. 6) lay between Bethhogla ('Ain Hajlah) and the neighbourhood of Gilgal, whicli was east of Jericho. The Hajr el Asbah is no less than 6 miles south-west of Ain Hajlah, and cannot apparently have been on the boundary- line, as it would naturally be drawn. M. Ganneau, in identifying this site at Hajr el Asbah, argues: I St. Stone of Bohan = ' Stone of the Thumb.' 2nd. Hajr el A.sbah = ' Stone of the Finger,' Arabic Usbaa. Besides the great topographical objection, there is the objection that the word is Asbah, or Subh, which means 'Streaked with white.' The stone is a square block, not resembling a finger or a thumb. The ingenious theory of M. Ganneau is founded on an incorrect spelling of the name, (Usba'a having the Sin and ^Ain, while Asbah has the Sad and Hch), and appears to me topographically impossible.- — C. R. C. The following is M. Clermont Ganneau's account : ' The day before yesterday we returned from Jericho, having taken advantage of Lieutenant Conder's presence there to visit the place, in the hope of verifying certain points. We passed five days in the Survey Camp, meeting with the most friendly reception from the officers in charge, and came back here on the third. 'The two points which were the motives of this journey were (i) the examination of the site of the Hajr el Asbah, which I had for a long time, for various reasons, proposed to identify with the Stone of Bohan ; and (2) the project to excavate a cemetery near. Kumran pointed out as curious by MM. Rey and De Saulcy. In view of the latter I had brought 200 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. with me two peasants of Sihvan, formerly workmen under Captain Warren, and taken certain tools, such as picks, shovels, and crowbars, from the Society's storehouse. The Jericho people are of no use for this kind of work, as they even employ the fellahin of the mountains to cultivate their own lands. ' Our journey was accomplished without incident, except that, arriving after nightfall, and badly guided by our two peasants, we wandered about for two hours in the darkness and the thorn thickets before discovering the camp, masked as it was by the Tell el 'Ain, at the foot of which it was placed. ' We started the next day, accompanied by Messrs. Conder and Drake, for Hajr el Asbah and the Khiirbet Kumran. We arrived at the territory (Ardh) of the former after crossing in succession the AVady el Kelt, the Wady Daber, and the little AVady el 'Asala. It is a small plain extending between the foot of the mountains and the sea, to a bold and well-marked promontory, which one of our guides called, I believe, Edh-dh'neib e'yeir (?). In the northern portion of this region, almost at the foot of the peak, lie four or five great blocks of rock, probably fallen from the summit or flank of the mountain. The most northerly of these, very nearly cubical in form, and measuring 2 -J- metres in height, was pointed out to us as the Hajr el Asbah : it is'cloven in the middle. The scantiness of its proportions forms a striking contrast with the importance accorded to this simple piece of rock, which, without any thrilling character, has nevertheless given its name to a surrounding piece of country com- paratively large. The form of the stone hardly appeared to me to justify the signification which in my memoir on the subject I had assigned to the Hebrew Bohan, and to the Arabic word Asbah (for Asb'a), thiunb or finger. On the other hand, I discovered close by, and standing on the side of the hill, a remarkable isolated peak, which struck me at first sight as well as my companions. This point of rock presents a striking resemblance to a fist closed with the thumb raised, as will be easily seen by looking at M. Lecomte's sketch. Nothing more natural than to apply to this finger-shaped" point of rock the characteristic denomination of Ihiimb or finger^ only unfortunately the guides assured us that the Hajr el Asbah was really the fallen block we had just visited, and that this other rock was called Sahsoul H ' m e i n or G o u r d e t Sahsoul H ' m e i d, which it seems difficult to attach etymo. logically to E b e n Bohan. ' What are we to understand from these facts ? It may very well be that the Arabic translation of the Hebrew word at first applied to the peak has been transferred to one of the blocks fallen from the mountain close by. AA^hat would seem to justify this conjecture is that the name of Asbah is extended over the whole of the plain, as we have seen. There seems nothing impossible in supposing that after this extension of meaning it should be again con- centrated on a single block within the space, and that towards the point by which the place was ordinarily reached, the north. The transference of name might possibly be dated back to the falling of the stone itself from the mountain ; such an accident may have struck the next visitors so much as to have caused them to fix the denomination of the whole region to this single stone. ' I collected from the Bedawin who accompanied us a variation of the name Hajr el Asbah, viz., Hajr e s S 0 b c h. ' Not only the peak itself in which I wished to find the Stone of Bohan has a highly characteristic form, but the shadow which it threw on the side of the hill, at the moment when we passed before it, gave a curious profile, suggesting also the signification of the name. ' Lastly, I will add to these observations one which appears to me of great value in this [SHEET XVm.] ARCIL£OLOGY. 20I important question of Biblical topography. This peak marks the exact point where the mountains which fringe the western side of the Dead Sea change their direction, or at least to the eye appear to change it. It is at the extremity of the cape which, looking from north to south, closes the landward horizon, appearing from this side to plunge into the sea. It is a point which forms a natural position, and there is therefore nothing astonishing in its being chosen as one of the points in the border line between Benjamin and Judah. This con- sideration appeared to me so important that on our return I begged M. Lecomte to make, from the top of the Tell 'Ain es Sultan, a panoramic view of the plain of Jericho and its horizon of mountains from the Tawahin es Sukker to the sea. ' We must remark that the peak only presents its profile clearly indicated when one looks at it from the north ; seen from the south, as we remarked on returning, it had lost its first aspect ; on the other hand, it resembled now, in a very striking manner, a colossal statue, seated in the Egyptian manner.' — 'Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 80 — 83. J e b e 1 K II r li n t u 1 (O r). — This mountain rises 1,000 feet above the level of the plain as a vertical precipice. The precipice is burrowed with hermits' caves ; and two chapels, one still in use (as are some of the caves), are built against the rock. On the summit of the mountain are the remains of a fortress. A good path leads to the chapels. Chapels and Cave s. — Two chapels were visited on the side of the mountain. (See Plans.) The lower one is reached through a hole in the roof of an excavated chamber, about 12 or 15 feet wide. There Lower Chapel was originally a staircase outside, cut in rock, but this is broken away. Two large reservoirs exist at the cave below, which is of irregular shape. The chapel above is covered with mcdiceval frescoes on the cemented walls, also having inscriptions and graffiti of numerous pilgrims on the frescoes. On the south side is a rock chamber, with a masonry door built against the cliff, to which the rock staircase once led. The arch of the door is pointed with a keystone, cut away to make the point of the arch- way. Beyond this vestibule is a 1 i w a n or open chamber, having a large pointed arch over the window. The east portion of this chamber is raised, VOL. III. 26 202 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. and there were originally windows here on the south side. In the raised part the altar seems to have stood. On the left is a niche ; on the walls are frescoes (see coloured Sketches) representing the Saviour enthroned, with inscription : o TTa vrwKrparfu jO 'The Ruler of All' and the Virgin to the left of the spectator, with title : M?}rr;p 0foi> ' Mother of God. and Saint John Baptist to the right, with title : 0 'A'yioc Iwai'VJjc 0 ' Holy John the (Forerunner '). On the left of the altar at the back is the fresco representing the angel Gabriel, now black with age, with the title : Beyond this picture is another of a saint, almost entirely defaced. On the north wall towards the left is the representation of Saint Sabas extracting the thorn from the lion's foot. (See coloured Sketch.) This serves to date the frescoes as not earlier than 532 a.d., when St. Sabas died. (Robinson's ' Biblical Researches,' ii. 27.) Beneath this are the figures in brown paint on a light ground, as sketched, with their in- scriptions. They are executed with more artistic feeling than the other figures, and appear probably later. In the niche a cross is painted in red paint, with the letters IC"and XC either side. The form is that of the Latin cross. The rest of the frescoes are quite indistinguishable ; but the colour of the roof is rich and dark, and when new the frescoes were, no doubt, very effective. Above the vesti- bule a hole is seen leading to a vault at a higher level. A bough is fixed across this opening. The vault was visited by Dr. Tristram, and appears to have been used as a place of burial above the chapel. The frescoes appear somewhat older than those at D e i r el Kelt and K u s r Hajlah, but the entrance doorway cannot be attributed to an earlier period than the twelfth century, because of its pointed arch. [SHEET XVIIi:\ ARCHEOLOGY. 203 The chapel measures 27 feet long by 18 feet broad. The second chapel is still in use as a hermitage, and is higher up the mountain. It is reached by rock-cut steps, lately repaired, and by a ledge extending along the face of the precipice. This chapel is of masonry, built in front of a cave, and the walls covered with frescoes. A little tunnel leads into the vestibule on the north, and a doorway from it into the chapel. Behind the chapel on the west is a cave of irregular shape. The vestibule is about 9 yards by 7 yards, with a cave behind it. The chapel has a communication with an outer platform on the south, looking over the precipice, and at a slightly lower level, being reached by a descent of two rock-cut steps. The chapel has an apse 6 feet diameter, and its total length from the back of the cave to the inside of the apse is 25 feet. Its total breadth, including the side apse on the south, is 18 feet ; the outer platform has a wall on the east and another on the west, and is 1 2 feet north and south by 1 1 feet east and west. In the west wall is a door to a square chamber, which communicates with the cave beyond the chapel on the west. The roof of the chapel is of masonry and groined, the arches of the doors of the chapel are pointed, the masonry is well cut but small, of stones about I foot square, and not drafted. The walls are about i foot 6 inches thick In the south-east corner of the chapel is a staircase, five steps leading to a little platform, in the face of the precipice at a higher level, measuring about 6 feet east and west by 14 feet north and south, being open on the south. In its west wall is a niche cut in the rock, and in it a stone marked with a cross measuring 3 feet 6 inches across. This was shown as the point where our Lord stood during the Temptation. The frescoes in the chapel are much defaced, and covered with graffiti of pilgrims. One representation of the Angel Gabriel is dis- tinguishable, as also the figure of the Virgin on the roof of the apse. The following saints are recognised by their titles : 0 aytoc Tpriyopioq o OtoXoyog ' The Holy Gregory the Theologian.' 0 ayioq BacriAetoc o Meyag ' The Holy Basil the Great.' 26 — 2 204 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. 0 aytof w t - - - Xp(TUffro/.toii 'The Holy .... Chrysostom.' 0 ayioi; K.Oavaaioc uXriQuaQ Maprug ' The Holy Athanasius, Martyr for the Truth. ' These serve to date the inscriptions as not earlier than the fourth century, but the character employed has the following peculiarities in common with the inscriptions at D e i r el Kelt and K u s r H a j 1 a h. I St. The use of a peculiar form for the Greek ^t. 2nd. The use of a peculiar form for the Greek v. 3rd. The use of peculiar contractions of ov and a. 4th. The use of accents and lines over the contractions. 5th. The use of abbreviations for the oblique cases, and for well- known words such as M^np. 6th. The superposition of the vowels in a smaller character. These peculiarities are distinctive of the inscriptions of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries according to Du Vogtie (' Eglises de la Terre Sainte,' p. 91). There can therefore be but little hesitation in ascribing the frescoes, at the three ruins mentioned above, to the Crusading period in common with those at Bethlehem ; and the pointed arches in the three ruins lead to the same conclusion. The caves are, however, probably older, as hermits began to inhabit the mountain in the fifth century. St. Chariton was one of them, and died 410 a.d. Numerous hermits lived here also in the thirteenth century (Jaques de Vitry (a.d. 1220), ch. liii.). Tahunet el Hawa (On). — Fortress on the Summit of Kuril ntul. — The top of the mountain is of a conical form (320 above sea), and on the highest point are the foundations of a fortress and of a little chapel with a bearing 73°. (See Plan.) The fortress is protected north and south by steep valleys. On the east is the precipice ; on the west a fosse has been cut in the rock about 8 yards in width to separate the fort from the rest of the hill. The foundations are scarcely visible, but the castle appears to have occupied a rectangle of about 250 feet by 100 feet. The masonry is like that of K II s r el Y e h u d ; some stones have a rude boss. The chapel apse is 7 feet 6 inches in diameter. The ditch on the west is crescent-shaped. (Compare Beit Jibrin, Sheet XX.) No cisterns were observed. [SHEET XVIIL] ARCHEOLOGY. 205 There is little doubt that the buildings are mediaeval, though the site may have been occupied earlier. The spring of 'A i n D li k is 790 feet beneath. This fortress is probably Duk, mentioned as a fortress of the Templars between Jericho and Bethel in the thirteenth century. (See Robinson's ' Biblical Researches,' ii. 309.) (See Section A., Docus.) Visited 17th November, 1873. J i s r Abu G h a b b u s h (P r). — The name of the bridge by which the aqueduct crosses W a d y N u e i a m e h. The arches are pointed ; the masonry resembles that of the bridges over Wady Kelt. (See Kanat Musa.) Jisr ed Deir (O s). — This fine bridge is connected with the system of aqueducts in Wady Kelt. It spans the valley west of the monastery of Deir el Kelt. (See plan and elevation of bridge.) The bridofe is now broken. The total height of the water-channel above the bottom of the valley is 70 feet. The main arch has a span of 46 feet, the smaller of 15 feet each. A roadway on arches crosses beside the bridge, 44 feet below the water channel. The arches are semi- circular, and the whole structure is of well-squared masonry ; the stone similar to that used in the K u s r el Y e h u d. At the springing of the main arch there is a course of stones drafted with smooth boss and irregular draft, as in Byzantine buildings (Deir el Kulih, etc.) ; the stones are from I foot to 2^ feet in length and 9 inches high, the size of the early Crusading masonry. The water channel is lined with cement, white and hard ; beneath this is a layer of grey mortar full of ashes i inch thick, beneath this again a layer of broken pottery, and Hints in cement 3 inches thick. This grey mortar is often found in Byzantine ruins, but also in Roman work. The arches are covered with stalactites formed by the dropping water, now dry and hard. The aqueduct enters the bridge on the north side by a shoot at a slope of about I to I, descending the face of the cliff from a level of about 100 feet higher. This shoot is also covered with stalactitic sediment. The channel approaches the bridge by a sharp curve. It appears that part of the water is conducted to the foot of the bridge by a shoot, the rest crosses, and by the southern piers there is another vertical shoot. 206 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Thus two aqueducts start from the bridge south of the valley, and one from the north pier. (See Wady Kelt.) There is no exact method of dating this bridge, but the round arches indicate that it is not later than the middle of the twelfth century, and it may originally be Roman work repaired at a later period. Visited 26th November, 1873. Kanat Miisa (O s). — Under this head may be described the whole system of aqueducts which exist north and west of Jericho. The second system of the Wady Kelt aqueducts is described under the name of that valley. The first of these aqueducts rises at the 'A i n el 'A u j a h (Sheet XV.), and runs south to the two springs 'A i n D u k and 'A in N u e i a m e h. (See Section A.) It crosses the valley below these springs on a bridge some 50 feet long and 30 feet high, of many arches, all pointed. The bridge is apparently not of great antiquity. From this point it follows a winding course for over 4 miles direct, and communicates with various cisterns and with Khiirbet el Mefjir. It crosses another valley by a bridge, also with pointed arches, having on the haunchstone of one of the arches a well-cut cross built in. The water was conveyed in a cemented channel about 2 feet broad. The aqueduct finally terminates in a cemented cistern called Bir Heider at a distance of over 8 miles direct from 'Ain el 'Aujah. A shorter aqueduct from 'Ain es Sultan joins the above at Khtirbet el Mefjir. The water in this case is conveyed through pipes like those of the high level aqueduct in Wady Kelt. Another aqueduct starts from the 'Ain D u k, and follows the side of Jebel Kurfmtul, its course being marked by a growth of wild canes. It communicated with the Tawahin es Sukker, and thence ran to Wady Kelt, which it crossed by a bridge now broken down. It led to some ruins east of the B i r k e t M li s a, among which are remains of a cistern. The bridge is of small masonry, and has pointed arches. There are beneath the piers foundations of rough masonry forming starlings, with the point up stream. The aqueduct is here of rubble work, like those in Wady Kelt. The fourth aqueduct starts from 'Ain e s Sultan, and runs south to the neighbourhood of Rujm el Mogheifir. It crosses Wady {SHEET XVII I?^ ARCH^OIOGY. 207 Kelt by a bridge still perfect. Part of its course is merely a channel dug in the earth. The bridge has a modern appearance and pointed arches ; like the ruined one, it has starlings beneath, but, in this case, of squared masonry well dressed. It will be remarked that all these aqueducts supply mediaeval Christian ruins, though probably used also for irrigation. Hence it is natural to suppose that they are of Crusading origin, though probably repaired at a later period. They only exist in the immediate neighbourhood of Jericho. No traces were found, though most carefully sought, further south. Kusr Hajlah was not connected with this system, nor did the natives know of any such aqueducts south of R u j m el M o g h e i f i r. In the thirteenth century the sugar-cane was cultivated round Jericho (Jaques de Vitry, ch. liii.), and probably the irrigation would have been effected by these channels. There arc traces of various short channels diverging in different directions on the south side of W a d y Kelt. They appear connected with the last-noticed aqueduct, and similar traces are found which appear to have belonged to the third. (See Sheet XV.) Khan el A h m a r (N s). — The ruins of a Saracenic hostel beside the old road to Jerusalem. It resembles that next mentioned, and has large cisterns supported on arches beneath, on the east. A few courses of the walls are standing ; the masonry is of moderate size and well dressed. Khan Hathrurah (N s). — A Saracenic hostel, standing on high ground, and just north of the present Jericho road. A few piers and some of the walls are still standing. On the opposite side of the road are two or three small caves, in one of which is a stone with an Arabic inscription. Cisterns, well-built and supported on arches, exist beneath the Khan, and contain water.* North-east of this, on the highest part of the hill, arc the remains of a strong fortress, which commands the road here, ascending through a narrow pass between walls of rock on the east. On the west also there is a winding ascent to the neighbourhood of the Khan. The rock * Pere Lievin ('Guide,' p. 383) speaks of the Khan as having been built by Ibrahim Pasha 208 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. especially on the west, is of a ruddy colour, like burnt brick, whence the title, T a 1 a t e d D u m m, ' Ascent of Blood ' is applied to the whole hill, and sometimes to the castle on the summit. (See Section A.) The fortress is surrounded by a rock-cut ditch, which is crossed at the north-west corner by a narrow ramp. The ditch is 23 feet deep and 19 feet broad on the north and 14 feet deep on the east, on which side the Omfte-r Scarp. "3 hi^h. terrepleine has a command of 8 feet above the counter-scarp. The scarp is cut perpendicularly in rock, but there are traces of a revetement, sloping at 60° resembling that of the thirteenth century work at Csesarea. (Sheet VI 1.) The site enclosed by the ditch is a trapezoid (see Plan), measuring 205 feet on the north, 181 feet on the south, 217 feet on the east, 155 feet on the west. The bearing on the south is 39°. The ditch is 17 feet wide on the south, 23 feet on the west. The ramp is 11 feet broad, 19 feet long. In the trapezoidal area are remains of a donjon towards the south-east, and of vaults to the north-west. The donjon measures 30 feet square outside, with a projecting tower, 9 feet by 16 feet 6 inches, in the north-east corner. On the west side is the entrance to a little vault, II feet long, 12 feet broad ; this is a later construction. South of this the entrance to a larger vault by a doorway, 5 feet 6 inches broad and 8 feet 2 inches deep. In the south side of the doorway is the arch of a staircase ascending in the thickness of the west and south walls of the donjon by {SHEET XVIII.] ARCHEOLOGY. 209 two flights. The staircase is 3 feet broad, the wall being 8 feet 2 inches thick. The larger vault is 18 feet long, 14 feet broad (see Plan); the bear- ing of the north wall is 203°. The staircase is exactly similar to that at Kiiliinsaweh. (Sheet XI.) The courtyard of the castle appears to have been on the west of the donjon, a wall running north for 43 feet from the north-west corner of the donjon. The vaults on the north-west seem to be either more modern or to have been restored at a later period ; two remain, opening eastward into the courtyard, 18 feet by 31 feet and 18 feet by 29 feet respectively, the partition wall 2 feet thick, the outer walls 7 feet on north and south, 12 feet on the west. The vaulting here appears to be later than the walls, and to belong to the same period with the little vault built against the west wall of the tower. The masonry throughout is small. The roof of the tower is a barrel- vault, with pointed arch. The style of the work generally resembles the later work at Caesarea, at R a s el 'A i n, and in other twelfth and thirteenth century Crusading sites. There can be but little hesitation in supposing this to be the Tour Rouge, built by the Templars to protect pilgrims to Jericho. (See Adummum, Section A), which is noticed as early as the fourteenth century by Marino Sanuto and others. Visited November, 1873. Khiirbet Abu Lahm (O r). — Somewhat extensive ruins of houses near the M u k a m I m a m 'A 1 y. They appear to be modern, On the hill above the M u k a m there are remains of a rude wall and ditch, and towards the south traces of a small tower. (See Docus, Section A.) The tomb itself (Mukam Imam 'Aly) is an ordinary Moslem building, small and low, protected by a drystone wall. There arc many M e t a m i r, or pits for holding grain, round the building. The site of these ruins is a strong one, close to 'Ain Duk, and commanding the surrounding valleys.* Khiirbet Farah (Ms). — Heaps of stones only. * The mediaeval chapel of the apparition of Michael to Joshua stood beneath the Quarantania mountain. (Phocas, De Locis Sanctis, 1185 a.d.) This is not improbably the present Mukam associated with a confused tradition of Joshua. (See Section C.) VOL, III. 27 210 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Khiirbet Jinjis (M t). — Foundations, apparently modern Arab work. 'Eight ancient cisterns and twenty ruined houses.' — Guerin, 'Judea,' iii. loi. Khiirbet Kakun ( O s). — Foundations and walls. There is no indication of the date, but the main building seems to have been a large one. The masonry is small. Khurbet Kumran (O t). — The ruins lie on a natural platform, 300 feet above the Dead Sea level, at the base of the cliffs. The remains are very rough. On the west side is a wall, but on the south and east the slopes are very steep. At the north end of the wall are ruined buildings, now presenting nothing beyond heaps of rough stones. Outside the wall on the west is a small birkeh, rudely lined with stones, unhewn, the joints packed with smaller stones and roughly plastered. A flight of steps leads down the side. (Compare the birkeh at Bidieh (Sheet XIV.), which it resembles.) The peculiar feature of the site is the immense number of graves occupying the plateau and the eastern slope. There are some 700 or more in all, arranged close together in regular rows. They have a direction 20° west of north along their length, and are therefore not Moslem graves. One was excavated and found to be 3 feet 5 inches deep, about 6 feet long by 2 feet 3 inches. The top of the shaft was covered with loose stones carefully arranged. At the bottom of the shaft is a narrow trough for the body, covered with sundried bricks 1 5 by r i by 9 inches in dimensions. The bricks were supported by a ledge projecting on the sides of the grave. Remains of a skeleton with the head to the south were found, the bones much decayed. Visited 29th November, 1873. ' After a brief halt at Hajr el Asbah, we continued our journey to the south, to examine the site of the Khurbet Kumran, and especially the cemetery pointed out here by MM. Rey and De Saulcy. The ruins are quite insignificant in themselves : a few fallen walls of mean construction ; a httle birket, into which you descend by steps ; and numerous fragments of irregular pottery scattered over the soil. Our attention was principally attracted by the numerous tombs (perhaps a thousand), which cover the mound and adjacent plateau.x. To judge only by their exterior aspect, they might be taken for ordinary Arab tombs, composed of a small elliptical tumulus, surrounded by a range of rough stones, with two large stones placed upright at the two extremities. All that distinguishes these sepulchres distinctly from modern tombs is the orientation : they all have their major axis north and south instead of east and west. This particularity had been already noted by the Mussulman guides of {SHEET XVIIL] ARCHJiOLOGY. 211 M. Rey, and it called from them the remark that they were the tombs of Kouffar (not Mussul- mans). ' I resolved to open one of the tombs. Our two men of Silwan set to work under our eyes, while we followed— Mr. Drake, M. Lecomte, and myself— the progress of the excava- tion. After digging about one metre in depth, our workmen came upon a bed of rough clay- brick measuring o'40 x -20 x '12 metres, and resting on a kind of flange cut in the earth itself On removing these bricks, we found in the grave the bones, partly destroyed, of the corpse which had been buried there ; and managed to pick out a bit of a jawbone, with teeth adhering, which will perhaps enable anthropological conclusions to be drawn. There was no article of any kind in the tomb. The head was turned to the south, and the feet to the north. You will gather from M. Lecomte's sketches some idea of the dimensions and disposition of the tomb which we opened, as well as of the general aspect of this enigmatical cemetery. The principal plateau, which contains the greater number of these tombs, is crossed from east to west by a kind of alley dividing the tombs into two zones. It is difficult to form any opinion on these sepulchres, principally on account of their abnormal orientation. Can they belong to some ancient Arabic tribe of the Jahiliyeh period? If they were Christian tombs, they would offer some characteristic sign or religious emblem, for the employment of bricks to cover the body, and the comparative depth of the graves, show that the tombs have been constructed with a certain amount of care.' — M. Clermont-Ganneau, ' Quarterly Statement,' 1874, p. 83. Khurbet Kurm 'A trad (Ok). — Remains of rude drystone walls, which are traditionally supposed to have belonged to former vine- yards by the Arabs. Khurbet el M e f j i r (Or). — Considerable ruins exist here. The water supply is by an aqueduct, which is here supported on arches pointed but slightly. The buildings are of small masonry the foundations alone visible. The stones average 8 inches to 18 inches in length, 9 inches in height, or the usual dimensions in Crusading buildings. The ruins include a vault 19 feet by 16 feet, with a wall 4 feet 6 inches thick, and entrance from the east. About 150 paces north of this is a wall running east and west. Another wall on the west appears to have had an entrance-gate. In the vault Captain Warren found traces of frescoes. South of the vault is a building with an apse pointing southward, having a bearing 3° west of north. The apse is 6 feet in diameter, the chapel being 16 feet wide. Between this building and the vault are foundations of another room or building. A very simple moulding runs round the wall of the apse, probably at the springing of the apse dome. The appearance of the masonry is similar to the interior masonry of some of the Crusading churches. The apse, if belonging to a church, must have terminated one of the 27 — 2 212 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. transepts, a disposition which is not usual in the Crusading churches of Palestine. This spot was pointed out to Captain Warren by some of the Arabs as the site of Gilgal. It seems probably to have been a mediaeval monastery similar to Kusr Hajlah. It is worthy of notice that Marino Sanuto (1300 a.d.) speaks of Gilgal, and marks it on his map as north of 'A in es Sultan. (See Section A.) Brocardus also places Gilgal near Quarantania, west of Jericho (a.d. 1283). (See Robinson's * Biblical Researches,' ii. 272.) Visited 2nd December, 1873. Khurbet el Meshrab (O s). — Traces of ruins only. Khiirbet Mird (see Mons Mardes, Section A.) (N t). — A ruin in a very strong natural position on a precipitous hill, standing 1,000 feet above the level of the plain east of it. The site is divided on the west from the main line of the cliffs by a low saddle, and the road here approaches along a very narrow ledge of rock. An aqueduct, which appears to collect surface drainage on the slopes of e 1 M u n t a r and connected with the B i r el 'A m m a r a, forms the water supply of the present ruin. It is partly tunneled in the rock, partly of masonry, the channel, 1 foot 6 inches wide, lined with hard white cement. The aqueduct crosses the saddle along a narrow ledge of rock, and once supplied two pools, or Burak, 30 to 40 feet square, north of its course in the saddle. There is also a well on the north of the ruin, and another on the south, which is ruined. There is a wall to the birkeh at the saddle, built in a series of steps of masonry about i foot square and hard mortar. The cisterns in the ruin are lined with very hard white cement. Masonry tombs are said to exist among the ruins. The largest cistern is about 30 feet deep. Vaults with semicircular arches were observed, and walls of small masonry. The site is evidently that of a town of some importance, and the buildings resemble Byzantine ruins in other parts of the country. Visited loth November, 1873. Khurbet es Sum rah (P r). — A double ruin. Traces only remain, with caves ; and the rock in the neighbourhood is extensively quarried, the various monasteries and other buildings in the Jericho plain {SHEET XVm.] ARCHEOLOGY. 213 consisting of stone similar to that found in these quarries. The site appears ancient. (See Section A, Zemaraim.) Khurbet es Sumrah (O t). — Scattered stones and terrace walls, said to be remains of vineyards by the Arabs. Khurbet ez Zeranik(N t). — Traces only of ruins, apparently modern. Kurm Abu Tiibk (O t). — Scattered stones, said to be remains of a vineyard, and a small cave of the same name. Kurm el 'Ajaz(Ou). — Resembles the last. (Compare Khurbet Kurm 'A t r ad, and see also S e b b e h, Sheet XXVI.) Kusr Hajlah(P s). — An important ruin of a mediaeval monastery. The ruin included a large chapel, a second smaller to the south, and a third in the vaults below. The whole is surrounded by a wall, which remains almost perfect on three sides, but is destroyed on the north. The total measure north and south is 125 feet, and east and west 163 feet. There is a projecting tower on the south and west walls, and smaller towers on the north and east. The tower on the south projects 9 feet, and was 17 feet wide ; that on the west is 14 feet by 35 feet. Chapel. — The principal chapel has a bearing 99° west. It has an apse with a domed roof on the east, the diameter 12 feet 10 inches, the depth from the chord 8 feet to the back of the curve. On the south side were remains of a staircase leading to the walls above the apse. The second or smaller chapel was more perfect, having a sort of tower or octagonal lantern over the body of the building, supported by groined vaulting forming pendentives, the arches springing from the corners of the building. The chapel measured 9 feet 6 inches across by 14 feet long, interior measure ; it had a door 2 feet 5 inches wide on the west, a window 2 feet 8 inches wide on the north, two windows 2 feet broad on the south. On the east was the apse, equal in breadth to the chapel, but having two little apses within it, the northern 5 feet 2 inches diameter, 3 feet deep, the southern 2 feet 5 inches in diameter, and i foot 10 inches deep. The total height of the chapel was 16 feet; the lantern above on the interior was a circle 9 feet diameter with four windows ; it was 6 feet high to the cornice, making a total 22 feet from the floor. There is a vault 10 feet deep below the chapel. 214 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. The main chapel would appear to have had a nave 44 feet long, 14 feet 6 inches broad in clear, and a side aisle on south without an apse, 8^- feet broad in clear, divided off by piers or pillars now destroyed. The arches, judging from the interior piers on the south wall, which show three bays, had a span of 1 2 feet. A doorway in the central bay of the south wall led to a vestibule west of the smaller chapel, 9 feet 6 inches broad, and 1 7 feet 9 inches long, interior measure. It seems that a corridor measuring 16 feet broad east and west ran behind both chapels on the west, from which they were entered. The northern outer wall of the monastery is traceable near the north-west corner, and shows that there was a northern aisle to the main chapel 12 feet wide. South of the smaller chapel there is a large cistern or birkeh, which must have formed the principal water supply of the monastery. It measures 30 feet by 10 feet, and is 24 feet deep. These buildings are supported on vaults at a lower level, as shown in the plan, the birkeh being sunk yet lower than the vaults. The vaults, entered from beneath the southern chapel, include a small chapel, the apse of which, with a cross rudely painted, was beneath the nave of the larger chapel. The kitchens appear to have been near the south wall of the monastery, remains of cooking places being still visible in 1874. The interior walls of both chapels were painted in fresco, and there appear, as at D e i r el Kelt, to be two periods. The floors of both [SHEET XVIIL] ARCH.EOLOGY. chapels appear to have been covered with marble mosaic, like that at Deir es Salib. (Sheet XVII.) The roof of the main chapel was covered with a representation of our Saviour, crowned and enthroned, surrounded by the twelve Apostles. The face of the central figure has been purposely effaced. Lower down is a design representing the coronation of the Virgin, and beneath this, one much defaced, apparently the Annunciation. The frescoes in the southern chapel were much better preserved. The north apse was painted with a central figure in act of benediction, surrounded with figures dressed in robes, covered with large checks of black and white. In the smaller south apse was painted a saint, with nimbus, holding a book. The robes of this figure are also in checks, black and white. On the south wall of the chapel were figures of saints. One held a book and had the inscription on either side of the nimbus as below : ' The Holy Andrew of Crete.' A second similar figure, with book in hand and nimbus round the head, had the inscription : '0 uytoc \(iiavvx]q o EAttj^/wv 'The Holy John Elecmon.' (630 A.D. is the date of this patriarch.) This was on the north wall. On the south wall was another saint, with the inscription as beneath, also robed in chequers, with a book and nimbus. 'The Holy Silvester, Pope of Rome.' Silvester II. (998 a d.) was a famous Pope. A fourth figure was on the north wall, with inscription round the nimbus : ' Holy Sophronius of Jerusalem.' Over the north window was a design representing the Annunciation. On the pendentivcs and roof were figures of angels. One of the best pre- 2l6 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. served frescoes was on the south-west pendentive, representhig saints receiving robes from angels, with the short inscription : ' Simon.' The figures were very badly drawn, especially the smaller ones. Some of the frescoes, painted in umber and ochre, resemble the smaller figures in the lower chapel on J e b e 1 K u r u n t u 1, but none were so well drawn. On the pier at the west end of the larger chapel, on the west face, were two medireval graffitce, which appear to read ' Piquet ' and ' Pctre le Senechal' There was also another mediaeval graffite in connection with a Latin and a patriarchal cross. The painting of the cross in the chapel below in the vaults was very rude, and appears later. The place, when visited in 1875, was inhabited by a Greek monk from Mar Sab a. The character of the inscriptions is sufficient evidence that the frescoes are of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries (probably previous to 1187A.D., when Jerusalem was taken). The character of the masonry and archi- tectural details points to the convent being of the same date. The stone used is soft limestone, like that at K h u r b e t e s S li m r a h. The masonry is of moderate size, like that at K u s r el Y e h u d. The stones in the outer wall are the largest, and are surrounded with an irregular draft, like the ruin at Khurbet Ikbala and the church at Kuryet el 'Enab. (Sheet XVII.) The tower in the south-east corner consists entirely of these drafted stones. In other parts of the monastery only corner stones are drafted. The arches are all pointed. Some of the vaults have barrel vaultings, others groined roofs of rubble. The general style of this work resembles that of the roofs in the M u r i s t a n at Jerusalem (i 130 — 40 a.d.). The arrangement of the chapel and detail of the vaulting is also mediaeval. The windows have pointed arches. This monastery is sometimes known as Mar Yohanna Hajlah — ' St. John of Hajlah.' In the sixteenth century it was inhabited by monks of the Order of St. Basil, and was known to the Latins as the monastery of St. Jerome as early as the fifteenth. (Robinson's ' Biblical {SHEET XVIIL] ARCHEOLOGY. 217 Researches,' ii. 271.) In the fourteenth century the place is called Bet Agla by Marino Sanuto. Its earlier history is not known. It may perhaps be the monastery of Calamon, which existed in this neighbour- hood in the twelfth century. (' Biblical Researches,' ii. 270.) Visited 17th November, 1873; ist January, 1875.'"' K 11 s r el Y e h u d (P s). — Resembled the last, but was less per- fect. The work appeared to be Crusading. Beneath the building was a chapel, the west end broken away. It had an apse on the east 7 feet 8 inches from chord to back of the circle, and 12 feet diameter. The chapel nave was 15 feet 8 inches across. Its length is not determinable. The vaulting is a simple barrel-vault of rubble work. The masonry of the interior of the chapel averages 2 feet by 9 inches by i foot. It is very well cut, but no draft was observed on any of the stones. South of the chapel are two other vaults running east and west with similar vaulting: they are respectively 11 feet 10 inches and 16 feet 6 inches broad ; the south wall of the chapel is 6 feet 6 inches thick, and the wall between the vaults the same. Doorways communicate across near the east end. Another vault, 14 feet broad, also entered by a door close to the apse, exists north of the chapel. These vaults once supported buildings now entirely destroyed, except part of a wall standing on the south wall of the chapel. The exterior walls of the monastery are also destroyed except on the south. The tower in south-west corner g nr\ ^5^)(v^/7/^/ Yci>7 is still left with small vaulted chambers having 1 \\\^\i)\)\l^Wo\ groined roofs within. The building was origin- ally 140 feet long east and west, 90 feet broad north and south. It had * This place was revisited by me on 8th April, 1882. The Greek monks from Mar Saba were engaged in building a new monastery on the spot, and had deliberately scraped off all the frescoes, not a vestige remaining. A better instance of the value of the Survey work could hardly be given.— C. R. C. VOL. III. 28 2l8 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. projecting corner towers on south-east and south-west, and two inter- mediate buttresses remain on the south wall, 4 feet projection, 3 feet 2 inches and 2 feet 7 inches broad respectively. The south-west tower projects 16 feet 6 inches, and is 35 feet broad outside, the walls 4 feet thick. In the north-east corner the wall remains, and in it a little niche i foot 6 inches diameter, probably the north apse of a chapel. There is a door 4 feet 10 inches broad here in the north wall. The building stands on the edge of marl cliffs, which protect it on every side. It is most easily approached on the west, on which side are traces of a door 4 feet wide. The wall remaining at the higher level has projecting piers on the south side : they are 12 feet apart, and project 2 feet. They have a simple moulding at the top, resembling the mouldings in other mediaeval churches (as at Beit Jibrin). There appears to have been a tesselated pavement in part of the building. The arches observed were pointed, the stone similar to that used in the preceding ruin. On one of the piers an Armenian inscription was observed, and there are many graffiti in Greek and Arabic. * A Greek monk was inhabiting the vault when visited. The existence of a pointed arch in a vault below the tesselated pavement indicates that the pavement also is Crusading work. Immediately west is a very fine cistern, 30 feet deep, with piers and arches. It is apparently in connection with a raised causeway, leading straight to the site from the 'A i n es Sultan, which may have been an aqueduct, but this is doubtful, as the channel was not found. The causeway disappears near the building. Although the buildings described have every appearance of being Crusading work, the site was occupied by the monastery of ' Saint John on Jordan ' at an early period. Justinian in the sixth century built a well for the monastery of St. John Baptist near Jordan. (Procop. de yEdif. Justinian, v. 9) and Arculphus (a.d. 700) mentions the monastery as standing, not on the brink of the river, but on the high ground near it. Theodorus (530 a.d.) states that the original monastery was built by the * One of the Greek graffiti was supposed by Mr. C. F. T. Drake to be a date ; = 900 + 20 -f- 90 + 9 = 1019. The method of writing a date in several letters he states to be used in inscriptions. {SHEET XVm.'] ARCHAEOLOGY. 219 Emperor Anastasius. The monastery was destroyed by earthquake in the twelfth century, and rebuilt by the Greek Emperor. (Phocas, quoted by Robinson, ' Biblical Researches,' ii. 270.) It fell into ruins before the fifteenth century. Visited 17th November, 1873."' Mar Saba (N u). — A monastery of Greek monks. (See Photo- graph.) The present buildings are comparatively modern. The settlement of monks dates from St. Euthymius and St. Sabas in the fifth century {circa 480). It was restored and enlarged by the Russian Government, 1840 A.D. A few of the frescoes appear to be old. Numerous rock-cut caves exist in the face of the cliff south of the monastery, and appear to have been at one time inhabited by hermits.t The monastery was revisited on 7th April, 1882, It is entered from the west by a low door, and a descending passage with flights of steps leads to the court under the cliff west of the chapel, which is supported by huge buttresses against the face of the cliff. The cells extend north and south of the court on the west side of the gorge, and are included by a surrounding wall. A good view is obtained from near a detached tower on the south beyond the walls — built to accommodate female pilgrims, who may not enter the precincts. In the courtyard is an octagonal chapel enclosing the tomb of St, Saba beneath a dome. This chapel is covered with modern frescoes. The church east of this is in five bays, measuring 70 feet by 30 feet, with an apse and dome ; between the pilasters are two tiers of frescoes on the walls. There is a fine screen of wood, gilt and carved. Wooden and metal boards serve for bells in the north corridor. The refectory is newly built, and painted with very poor and gaudy frescoes. On the south a rock-cut gallery leads to the cave of St. Saba, which is small and quite dark, with a smaller cave or * This place was revisited by me in October, 1881. A modern Russian-Greek monastery has been built over the ruins, and a large guest-chamber projects on the south-west on the higher story. Two Byzantine capitals were found during this work, as well as the ancient iron- cased gate of the monastery, which is now again in use. Traces of frescoes were also found, and mediceval capitals. — C. R. C. t The other name of Mar Saba is D e i r e s S i k a. This name is traced back to the time of Eutychius. In the 'Annals' he speaks of Mar Saba as the new Deir es Sik, the Convent of Chariton (Khiirbet Khureitun, Sheet XXI.) being the old one. (See 'Quarterly Statement,' July, 1875, P- i73-) 28—2 230 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. cupboard at the further end. West of the tomb of St. Saba is a rock cave, which is called his original chapel. The skulls of monks, martyred by the Arabs, are here shown behind a wire screen. At a higher level to the north is a chapel with the tomb of St. John of Damascus (eighth century). The frescoes and paintings on wood on the apse screen of this chapel appear to be of some antiquity. There are many other small buildings, caves, cells, and kitchens. The library has recently been re- moved from Mar Saba to Deir es Sahb, near Jerusalem. Mugharet Umm el Hiimmam (N t). — A birkeh in the bottom of the valley, cut in the side of the cliff. It was possibly filled by infiltration of the water from above. In one corner cement was found in three coats, hard and white. The place is lo paces broad, 20 paces long, with three large recesses on one side, each 6 paces broad, 20 paces cut back. The entrance is narrow and double. Visited nth November, 1873, Mtigharet Ekteif (O s). — A very curious excavation in the north side of the valley. It slopes downward at a gradient about I by 2 for 120 feet. At the entrance it measures about 3 feet across, and is 6 feet high. Steps are here cut. Lower down it is choked with rubbish. It ends suddenly, being only about 2 feet high by 2 feet 6 inches broad at the further end. Its use and origin is enigmatical, but it may have been the entrance to a subterranean chamber now choked up. Visited 24th November, 1873. Neby Musa(0 t). — A deserted mosque on the downs, with a short minaret. It is a place of yearly Moslem pilgrimage. A cenotaph, shown as the tomb of Moses, exists in the mosque. The place was built by Melek edh Dhahr Bibars, 668 a.h. The minaret dates from 880 a.h. (Mejr ed Din, History of Jerusalem.)''' Visited 24th November, 1873. Nuseib el 'Aweishireh (O s). — A very prominent conical point on the north side of Wady Kelt. There are traces of ruins on the summit, and of a fosse on the west side, like that on Jebel Kuruntul. Rujm el Bahr (P t). — This small island is covered with unhewn * Pere Lievin ('Guide,' p. 344) states this mosque to have been originally a monastery, founded in the fourth century by St. Euthymius. [SHEET XVIIL] ARCHEOLOGY. 221 Stones, and is connected with the mainland by a long jetty of similar stones, some of considerable size. There is, as far as could be ascertained, no conflict of currents at this point which could account for this collection of stones, and it would therefore seem most probably an artificial pier constructed at some period when boats were used on the lake. Josephus mentions ships on the lake. (B. J. iv. 8, 4, Rel. Pal. p. 252.) Rujm el Mogheifir (P s). — The ruins occupy a considerable extent. On some of the stones remains of frescoes were observed, and Greek letters similar to those in the inscriptions at Kiasr Hajlah. Walls and heaps of masonry remain, the plan being quite indistinguishable. Cisterns remain beneath the surface, with barrel vaults similar to those at Ktisr Hajlah, well cemented inside. In one a stone with carved design of a quatrefoil in a circle was found. There can be little doubt that this ruin is that of another mediceval monastery ; perhaps the name Tell el K u r s i, also applied to this site, may be a corruption of Chrysostom, a monastery of that name existing in the twelfth century near Jericho. Visited 25th November, 1873, Sheikh Maseiyif (N t). — Arab graves. T a h u n e t el M e f j i r (O r). — Ruined mill connected with the aqueduct to the ruin of the same name ; it resembles the next. Tawahin es Sukker (O s). — Walls of mills, vaults, and foundations connected with the aqueduct from 'Ain Duk. The masonry is small, the arches pointed, the vaulting of rubble. There are remains of a shoot for bringing the water down from the aqueduct to the mill, which is constructed at a lower level on the side of the hill. The cultiva- tion of sugar was carried on here by the Crusaders. (See Kanat Musa.) Visited 17th November, 1873. 1. Tell Abu Hindi (O s). — An artificial mound excavated by Captain Warren. 2. Tell Abu Zelcf (O s). — An artificial mound excavated by Captain Warren. 3 Tell el 'Arais (O s). — An artificial mound excavated .by Captain Warren. 222 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Tell el Bureikeh (O r). — A small hillock, with a ruined cistern. It is apparently artificial, and of the same class with the pre- cedinof. Tell Deir Ghannam (Or). — Traces of ruins and heaps of stones. It is not one of the ' Tells' properly so-called. Tell Derb el Habash (O s). — Resembles the last. Tell el J u r n (O s). — Heaps of stones. It is not a ' Tell ' in the strict meaning of the word. Tell el K 6 s (P s). — Resembles the last. Tell el Kureini (Ms). — Probably a natural hillock. Tell el Mahfuriyeh (O s). — Heaps of stones. It is not a ' Tell ' in strict application of the term. Tell el Masnd (O s). — Resembles the last. Tell el Matlab (O s). — Resembles the last. Tell Muhalhal (O t).— A grave, apparently modern. Tell er Rusheidiyeh (P t). — A low mound of mud covered with fragments of ancient pottery, black and hard. 4. Tell es Samarat (O s). — A large artificial mound excavated by Captain Warren. 5. Tell es Sultan (O s). — This is the largest and most im- portant of the seven great Tells which are found in the neighbourhood of Jericho, viz., those numbered 1-7. The remaining places bearing the title do not belong to the same class. (Compare Sheet IX.) Tell es Sultan is generally held to be the site of the Jericho of Joshua, and under this head the various ruins connected with ancient Jericho may be noticed together. The mound itself is double, and the height of the summits is some 20 to 30 feet above the spring, the total extent about 50 to 60 yards north and south. The mound was excavated by Captain Warren. The spring (Elisha's fountain) comes out beneath the mound on the east, and has on the west a wall of small masonry in hard cement. In this wall there is a small semicircular niche, facing east, probably intended to hold a statue of the genius of the spring. The water comes out I A Q U E D U C T S [SHEET XVIIL] ARCHEOLOGY. 223 beneath piles of broken stones into a shallow reservoir, 24 feet by 40 feet, of hewn stones, well dressed, and of moderate dimensions. The stream is conducted from thence by various channels, and irrigates the land between the Tell and E r i h a. On the north side of the Tell there are many traces of ruins, called Khurbet Ras el 'A in. The buildings do not appear to have been large, or of fine masonry. A pillar shaft, 9 inches diameter, of Santa Croce marble, and fragments of cornices were found ; also a capital of the rude Ionic style common in Byzantine buildings, measuring i foot 9 inches above, and i foot 3 inches diameter ; the volutes 5 inches diameter at the ends, 2 inches in centre. Two bosses, cup-shaped, 5^ inches diameter, are placed between the volutes. The total height of the capital is 9 inches. (Compare el B u r j. Sheet VII., etc.) This capital is cut in coarse limestone, and much weathered. East and south-east of the Tell there are, among the thickets, extensive ruins on the way to E r 1 h a, mounds, scattered stones, small foundations, and portions of an aqueduct. These ruins do not, however, appear to be of great antiquity. South of the mound is a small vaulted building, apparently of the same date with the Tawahin es Sukker. The general impression obtained was that the earliest city must have stood on the Tell, but that in Byzantine times a town extended along the lower ground on the north and east, and was of considerable extent ; and in Crusading times other buildings were erected on the south and west. Jerome (' Onomasticon,' s.v. Jericho) mentions two sites as existing in his time. One he supposes to be ancient Jericho, the other Roman Jericho. The Bordeaux Pilgrim (333 a.d.) places the latter at the descent of the mountains. (See Tellul Abu el 'Aleik, and Section A., Cypros.) Jericho was inhabited in the fourth and fifth centuries, to which date the buildings near the Tell are most probably to be ascribed. In the Crusading period the site is always mentioned as distinct from the fountain, and to this period the tower in E r i h a is ascribed. Study on the spot leads, therefore, to placing the various sites as follows : Jericho of Joshua . . 'Ain es Sultan. Roman Jericho . . Tellul Abu el 'Aleik. Crusading Jericho . . Eriha. 224 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. 6,7. Tellu h Abu el 'A 1 e i k (O s). — Two large artificial mounds, south of the last; one on either side of Wad y Kelt. They were excavated by Captain Warren. The excavation in the northern one shows a rectangular chamber, the outer wall built of sun-dried bricks (compare Khiirbet Kumran), and the interior lined with undressed stones, once covered with a coating of cement, which was not very hard or good. This chamber had apparently a door on the east, but was too much ruined to make this certain. The southern mound has remains of buildings and walls, and there are also remains of a bridge over Wady Kelt at this point. Both the bridge and the buildings are of the ' opus reticulatum^ or masonry of small size, arranged with the diagonal of the stone in a vertical line. This is evidently Roman work (Palestine Exploration Fund Photograph No. 253). It has been suggested that these two mounds are remains of the towers of Thrax and Taurus, destroyed by Pompey (Strabo xvi. 2, 40), in or near Jericho. The placing of Roman Jericho in this neighbourhood would agree with the identification of Beit J li b r with Cypros. (See Section A.) Scattered stones, broken pottery, and traces of ruins are observable on both sides of Wady Kelt in this neighbourhood, and the aqueducts from Wady Kelt also lead to the same site, which is not otherwise provided with water. ' It was very necessary to ascertain something of the mounds in the Ghor — whether they were artificial, and if so, what was their composition; and in February, 1868, the weather preventing work at Jerusalem, an expedition was made to 'Ain es Sultan for the purpose of cutting through the several mounds scattered about. Of this the following is a short account. ' The mounds about 'Ain es Sultan were considered the less satisfactory in the Ghor for trying on, as the country about has probably been occupied by the Romans, Christians, and Saracens ; but it was the only part where we could collect a good number of workmen and get a fair amount of work out of them ; higher up in the Ghor we should have found great difficulties with the Bedawin ; as it was, at 'Ain es Sultan we could do just as we liked, as our workmen were friendly with the Bedawin of that part. ' Nine mounds were cut through, two at Wady Kelt, three at 'Ain es Sultan, and four within a short distance of the spring. Leaving Jerusalem at 6 a.m. on 24th February we arrived at 'Ain es Sultan at 8.50 a.m. (a journey of five hours and a half by Mimerz), when we met our party of 174 workmen, and by 10 a.m. they were all distributed on the several mounds. The men were from the villages of Lifta, Siloam, and Abu Dis, and were put to work by villages, and allowed to quarrel as much as they liked so long as they did not fight ' The trenches were cut across the mounds from east to west, so as to get shelter from the sun as soon as possible. During the day-time, when not exposed to the north wind, the rays of the sun were scorching. At night it was bitterly cold. After the trenches were cut 8 feet deep, the work was continued by shafts 8 feet square at intervals of from 4 feet to 6 feet, as [sheet xvm.'] ARCH.'EOLOGY. 225 the clay would not bear the cutting of one deep trench. These shafts were in most cases sunk below the level of the surrounding country. Very little was found except pottery jars and stone mortars for grinding corn. ' The general impression given by the result of the excavations is that these mounds are formed by the gradual crumbling away of great towers or castles of sunburnt brick. ' Details. — No. i Mound. South bank of Wady Kelt, about I mile below its entrance into the plain. ' On the top of the mound at the surface were found the ruins of buildings, stone (cakooli) obtained from a cave-quarry about 3 miles to north-east. A good deal of glass was found about these ruins, the flakes on the surface being brilliant with the prismatic colours. After about 6 feet we got through the rough foundations of the buildings and came upon the clay of the mound ; at about 8 feet were found the remains of a large amphora. The neck, handles, and base were entire, and it appeared to have stood about 5 feet high. A Roman inscription was on the neck. ' Marly rock was found in this mound about 8 feet below the surface of the surrounding country, and on the rock a large jar 2 feet in diameter, which crumbled on being touched. ' No. 2. A heap of stones and walls. This mound is evidently formed from the remains of a masonry tower of no great pretensions ; the foundations are below the general surface, but not on the rock. The stones are partly mezzeh, partly hard flint. ' No. 3. A large mound south of 'Ain es Sultan ; trench cut from east to west, graves found 6 feet below the surface ; all except one of sun-dried bricks ; those of bricks measured 5 feet 9 inches by i foot 10 inches in the clear; wall 7 inches thick and I foot 4 inches in height; that of stone was 4 feet 5 inches by 12 inches in the clear; walls 9 inches thick and i foot 3 inches in height. Bones appeared to have been thrown in after the decomposition of the bodies. Shafts sunk to 40 feet in depth with no results. * Mounds 4, 5, 6, are grouped together west of 'Ain es Sultan; they are about 60 feet above the surrounding country. ' The spring of 'Ain es Sultan issues from the foot of No. 6. These mounds are formed for the most part of a light clay (yellow) which, on being touched, crumbles into an impalpable powder. ' In some cases no strata or layers could be discerned in the clay ; in other cases, layers of brick, stone, and mortar were clearly visible. ' The photographs and sections together will give a pretty clear idea of what has been done. ' No. 4 mound. Two shafts were sunk to south about 20 feet deep, in which were found gravel, clay, pottery, fragments, and a black bituminous stuff, also at about 10 feet some remains of charred wood. ' A cutting was made through the centre of the mound from east to west 40 feet deep ; on east side of cutting several large sun-dried bricks were found, and a portion of the mound itself is formed of sun-dried bricks in fragments ; black flinty stones are mixed up with the soil, and here and there layers of pebbles. ' In some cases the strata could be seen, but it is very irregular. Pottery fragments were found at all depths, also two large stone mortars (for grinding corn ?), i foot in diameter, at about 6 feet below the surface. ' To the west the clay is grey, and a layer of limestone and mortar (?) was distinguishable, also an irregular layer of stones (16 inches cube). VOL. III. 29 226 THE SUR]'EY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. ' In the shafts at the foot of No. 4, to the west, rock (raezzeh) was found at 17 feet, and a wall, in sifii, running north and south, built of rough rubble (stones 12 inches cube). ' No. 5. Two isolated shafts 20 feet deep, and a cutting east and west 40 to 45 feet deep. ' Out of shafts were brought up limestones, pottery, and clay, one block of rubble of sand- stone, and a small mortar. ' Out of cutting were brought up pottery, clay, flintstones, and limestones, part of a stone dish, and other fragments ; no layers were visible ; a quantity of black bituminous fragments were found at 13 feet, and a round pot of earthenware which crumbled on being touched. ' No. 6. Two isolated shafts were sunk, and a cutting 30 feet deep from centre to west ; pottery, stone, and clay brought up ; a good deal of dark blue limestone ; two horizontal layers of bituminous stuff i to 2 inches thick, 8 feet below the surface ; at 15 feet below the surface was found a mortar about 18 inches in diameter. ' These mounds from top to bottom abound in fragments of pottery ; many of the jars were perfect until exposed to the air, when they were resolved into the same kind of clay as the rest of the mounds. ' A few small solid-looking jars were preserved, and they are now in England. A section of each mound is enclosed, and the photographs of these mounds are already in England. ' Nos. 7 and 9. Small mounds to east of 'Ain es Sultan, in the meadow land ; they were cut through, but nothing of importance was found in them. ' No. 8. This mound is north-west of No. i, and on north bank of Wady Kelt ; it is about 20 feet in height. ' The brick walls in this mound are still in situ, and some plaster was found with colour on it; the bricks are 14 inches long, and 5]- inches thick; they are sun-dried. ' The walls of the building are probably intact ; the cutting, however, only laid bare a section of them ; there are no signs of marble or of any kind of veneering to these walls. ' On the northern bank of Wady Niiei'ameh, about a mile from 'Ain es Sultan, north- east, are the remains of a village which some Bedawin in 1867 called Jeljul, but in 1868 the tribe about knew no other name than Es Sumrah. Excavations were made about, and the sites of several houses were exposed, and eventually a chapel, 27 feet long, 16 feet broad, with an apse end towards the south, semicircle of 6 feet in diameter ; also a square chamber, about 40 feet from the chapel, 18 feet by 16 feet 6 inches. This chamber had its walls adorned with frescoes ; the designs were hardly visible, as the plaster was much broken ; one stone, however, was well preserved, with the picture of what resembled a Swiss cottage, curving overhanging roof, and with projecting balcony ; the whole very well executed, but it soon faded away on being exposed. The roof of this chamber appears to have been formed of wood, richly carved, and studded with mosaics, fragments of which have been forwarded home ; also there appears to have been a window closed with a white marble lattice, parts of which have been preserved. ' The building stone throughout is of the kind called " cakooli," obtained from a cave quarry about 2 miles to the north-east. 'This village appears to have been Christian.' — Charles Warren. \SHEET XVI 11.'] ARCHEOLOGY. 227 Umm el Autad (O u). — Ruins of a Bedawin camp, the stones arranged round the tents and cooking-places remaining ; hence the name ' Mother of Tent-pegs.' Umm S i r a h (O s). — Resembles the last. Wady Joreif Ghuzil (P s). — In the north bank of this valley a little chamber is excavated roughly in the soft marl. It is entered on the south by a door 2 feet broad. The chamber is 5 feet 6 inches wide, 13 feet 6 inches long. On the west are two round recesses, 2 feet 6 inches across. On the east is one 2 feet wide. On this side are two niches for lamps. On the north is a passage 3 feet wide, with a recess i foot 6 inches deep, 3 feet 3 inches across, on the east. The passage is blocked at the end. This cave seems possibly to have been a hermitage. Visited ist December, 1873. Wady Kelt (O s). — Five aqueducts exist in this valley. Of these aqueducts, two come from 'A i n Far ah, and three from 'A i n Kelt. The latter diverge at Jisr ed Deir, which see. From the spring to this point there is a single channel, which runs 100 feet above the bridge, which is reached by a shoot, as already described. The channel runs along the side of the hill on the north. Small bridges of a single arch span the tributary ravines. There is also a continuation of the channel at the higher level, which supplies Deir el Kelt, reaching as far as a cave above the monastery. The channel, which runs from the bottom of the northern pier of J i s r e d Deir, follows the north side of Wady Kelt and turns north at the opening of the pass. It was traced to the neighbourhood of the Sugar Mills (T a w a h i n e s S u k k e r), and in parts was found to have pipes like those of the aqueducts from A in Far ah, laid in a cemented channel. Two channels start from the southern pier of Jisr ed Deir; one at the level of the channel on the top of the bridge, one from the level of the bottom of the pier. They How side by side at these two levels, one 40 feet beneath the other, along the south side of the valley. The upper aqueduct was not traced beyond the mouth of the pass, the lower ends in a birkeh near the mouth. They are of masonry throughout, some- what resembling that of the aqueducts from Solomon's pools. Just 29 — 2 228 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. opposite D e i r el K e 1 1 is a fine wall of masonry, similar to that of Jisr ed Deir, about 30 feet high, built against the cliff. The channel of the upper aqueduct runs on the top, and beneath there is a culvert through which the lower aqueduct runs, near the bottom of the wall. There is another small channel, about \ mile long, which joins the upper aqueduct at Jisr e cl Deir, coming from the south side of Wady Kelt. The upper channel runs occasionally uphill, though never, of course, as high as its original level at the 'A i n Kelt ; on the top of the wall it is roofed in with flat stones, like the channel of the aqueduct at Caesarea. The dimensions of the channel are given on the bridge. As far as can be judged, these aqueducts are of the same date with the bridge, which is probably older than the Crusading epoch. They are probably to be ascribed to Roman times, or perhaps the Byzantine period; but are evidently older than the system described under the head K a n a t M Cl s a. The two aqueducts from 'A i n F a r a h run at a higher level, beside the road, south of W a d y Kelt. Their course is extremely devious at one point ; the channels cross and recross one another. In places they are tunneled through the hill. The high-level is carried across a ravine in one place, on a massive bridge of rubble-work, faced with ashlar, 120 feet long, 35 feet high, with a pointed arch. Near this is a cistern, resembling Beit Jiibr el Fokani, in masonry. At this point the [sheet XVIII.'] ARCHEOLOGY. 229 low-level channel crosses by a detour, without a bridge. Both aqueducts disappear at Beit Jiibr el Fokani, and seem to run in tunnels to the neighbourhood of Beit Jiibr et Tahtani. Here the higher channel descends by a steep shoot, as previously described. The course of the low-level is not easily traceable, but it appears to have supplied the Birket Musa. The high-level near Beit Jubr et Tahtani has a cemented channel, with a semicircular arch to the roof. The low-level has also a cemented channel. The wall supporting the high-level (of rough masony) is visible on the Jerusalem road, nearly opposite Deir el Kelt ; and here there are remains of pipes of red earthenware. There is nothing to fix the date of this pair of aqueducts beyond the pointed arch of the bridge. This may, perhaps, be a reconstruction. The buildings in connection with the channels are all comparatively late, as far as it is possible to determine their date. SHEET XVIII.— SECTION C. Traditions. — The Arabs have numerous traditions, which in some cases appear to be derived from Christian sources. The mosque of N e b y M u s a, one of the most sacred spots in the country, is supposed to contain the tomb of Moses. According to the Moslem tradition, Moses fled from the east of Jordan to this place, and was here entombed by the angels. (See ' Quarterly Statement,' July, 1874, p. 172.) The canal called K a n a t M u s a, and the B i r k e t M u s a, are also traditionally ascribed to Moses. Another tradition connects the Wady Kelt aqueducts with Moses, who is supposed to have traced the line with his rod from the spring to Birket M li s a. In this case, as at Csesarea, the existence of two aqueducts is explained by a supposed competition, Moses is said to have contended with a Christian woman who should first bring water to Jericho. The K a t a t M u s a, or ' Place cut by Moses,' is probably connected with the same story. An enchanted spring is also supposed to exist in Wady Kelt. (See 'Quarterly Statement,' April, 1875, p. 103, where the tradition is fully given by M. Ganneau; and by Pere Lievin, 'Guide,' P- 344-) A second tradition of importance is connected with the Shejeret el 1 1 h 1 e h, where stood originally, according to the Abu Nuseir Arabs, the City of Brass. (See 'Quarterly Statement,' April, 1875, PP- S^j 72, 87, and July, 1S75, p. 172.) This was inhabited by Pagans (Kufar),who were attacked by the Imam 'Aly Ibn Abu Taleb(see Mukam Imam 'Aly, Section B) on his horse M e i m u n. He rode round the city, and blew at the walls, which fell. The Pagans fled, and were pursued in the direction of Kuriintul ; but the close of day favoured their escape. Hence the Imam called to the sun, 'Return, O blessed one' (Enthani ya [sheet XVIII.'] TRADITIONS. Mubaraki), whence the hill behind which it was disappearing is called Dhahret eth Theniyeh. The sun staying in its course, the call to prayers was then made by B e 1 a 1, who appears as the servant of the Imam ; the place where he stood is thence called M u w e d h d h e n e 1 Belal. It may be noted that Belial Ibn R u b a h is an historical personage, the M u e d h e n of the Prophet ; he came with the Caliph Omar to Jerusalem 636 a.d. (Besant and Palmer, 'Jerusalem,' p. 424.) Another tradition connected with this exists among the Arabs east of Jordan. (See ' Quarterly Statement,' April, 1882, p. 92.) This tradition is evidently founded on the Biblical account of the fall of Jericho. It is curious to remark that in Jerome's time the site of Gilgal (Shejeret el Ithleh) was held in reverence by the natives of the country. Close to Neb y M us a is the little Mukam of Hasan er Rai. He is traditionally supposed to have been the shepherd of Moses. The name of W a d y M e s a a d e t 'A i s a, ' Valley of the Ascent of Jesus,' may also be noted as showing the mediaeval tradition of 'O s h el Ghurab, as the 'high mountain' of the Temptation, still to remain among the Bedawin. Khurbet Mird is traditionally supposed to have been built by Nimrod, who is said to be there buried. The tradition given by M. Ganneau concerning the death of Nimrod, due to a mosquito in his brain, is a very common mythological tale. In the Talmud it is related of the Emperor Titus. (Tal. Bab. Gittin, 56 d, ' Quarterly Statement,' April, 1875, P- 1 10). Tal it ed D u m m, 'Ascent of Blood,' is said by the natives to be due to a former battle there. Jerome (' Onomasticon,' s.v. Adommim) gives the same explanation, stating it to be due to the blood shed by robbers. The natives (Abu Nuseir and 'Abid) have a tradition that in former times the Bukeid was covered with vineyards. Hence the name of several ruins in this district. They attribute this cultivation to Christians, and suppose that Christians could again renew it. The Arabs round Jericho are of a tribe called Abu Nuseir. They venerate a place called el H i r m e h or M a k a b a r e t e d Da w a ra h, ' The Place of Sepulchre of Daw a r.' This personage was their 232 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. ancestor, and the Abu Nuseir bury their dead here in the K ab fir e d Dawari, 'Tombs of the Dawar People.' Arabs of any other tribe passing- this spot make use of the expression, ' Permission, O Dawdr,' and the valley is sacred, and ploughs, grain, etc , are deposited here for safety. The usual votive offerings, sticks, rags, bracelets, etc., are found near the tombs. Robinson gives the origin of the tribe of Dawar as coming from the northern G h 6 r ; they were D e r w i s h, and much respected by other tribes. The members of the tribe entombed in W a d y el H i r m e h were killed by mistake by the Government, being supposed members of another tribe. (See ' Biblical Researches,' ii. 242.) Another ancient tribe of M a d a d i have their graves within this Sheet. (Kabur el Madadi, O t.) The inhabitants of the Jordan valley are all Arabs of various tribes. Armenian hermits are found on Kuruntul, and Greek monks at Mar Saba. The inhabitants of E r i h a are a mixed and very degraded race. Fellahin from the hills descend to cultivate their land for them. An early Christian tradition at Mar Saba states that the palm, still existing on the north wall of the monastery, was planted by the saint, grew up in a single night, and produced fruit without any stones. These dates are a sovereign remedy for childless women. This story is not confined to the Mar Saba monastery, and is connected with the worship of sacred trees. SHEET XIX.— SECTION A. Orography. — This Sheet contains i2g-6 square miles of sea-coast from Ascalon to south of Gaza, the whole being- an open rolling plain, cultivated in patches with corn. The blown sand has encroached further inland than in other parts of Palestine, being only arrested by the hedges of prickly pear, and by olives ; the rate of progress is said to be a yard a year, and the sand has covered the ruined walls of Ascalon, and half the gardens within. The broadest part measures nearly 4 miles across. Hydrography. — The plain is very dry ; Ascalon, Gaza, and other places are supplied by wells of sweet water, and in the course of W a d y G h u z z e h water is found not far below the surface in the pits (Hufiyir) dug by the Arabs. Wells occur even on the sea-shore, as at Sheikh 'Ajlin, and Sheikh Hasan; in the interior there are ruined rubble cisterns at all the ruined sites, showing the former water supply to have been artificial. Topography, — There are eleven inhabited places on the Sheet belonging to the Government district of Kada Ghuzzeh, under the Governor of Jerusalem.. 1. Beit Ha nun (D v). — A small mud village surrounded by gardens, with a well to the west. The ground is flat, and to the east is a pond beside the road. 2. Beit Lahi (D v). — A small village with fine gardens and groves of large and ancient olives in the middle of the sand. It has a well to the south. This place is probably the Bethelia of Sozomen (Hist. Eccles., v, 15), where was a temple. It is called by him ' Vicus VOL. III. 30 234 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. Gazc'eomm.' There is a small mosque in the village, which may occupy the site of the old temple. (See Rel. Pal., p. 638). ' Peopled by 250 inhabitants, it occupies an oblong valley, well cultivated, and surrounded by high sand-dunes, which cause a great heat. It is a little oasis, incessantly menaced by moving sand-hills, which surround it on every side, and would engulf it were it not for the continued struggle of man to arrest their progress.'- — Guerin, ' Judea,' li. 176. 3. Deir el Belah (B x). — A large mud village on flat ground, with wells and a small tower in the village. To the west is a grove of date-palms, whence the place is named. The small mosque is built over a former chapel. (See Section B.) This place is perhaps the mediaeval Darum (explained'by Jaques de Vitry to mean ' Greek house ' — D e i r e r R u m), which was fortified by King Amalric with four corner towers (Will, of Tyre); Marino Sanuto places it south of Gaza; Geoffrey de Vinsauf (1192 a.d.) makes it near the sea (Itin. Ric. bk. v., ch. xxxix.), and north of the Egyptian border (ch. xii.). It was taken by Richard Lion-Heart, and had then seventeen towers and a ditch. The place is now the See of a Greek Bishop resident in Jerusalem, and its former name is stated by the inhabitants to have been Deir Mar Jirius, ' Monastery of St. George.' The mosque is now called el K h u d r, or St. George. The gate of Gaza, on the road leading towards the village, was called Bab ed Darun. (See Section B.) The village had Christian inhabitants some thirty years ago. 4. Deir S i n e i d (E v).— A moderate-sized mud village with wells, gardens, and a pond. 5. G h li z z e h — GAZA (O w). — The capital of the district ; is a town principally of mud houses, but with mosques and other buildings well built of stone. It stands on an isolated hill in the plain, rising 180 feet above the sea, and some 100 feet above the surrounding flat ground. The place is divided into four H a r e t, or quarters, occupying about f mile either way. (i) Haret ed Deraj, on the west, occupies the west slope and the top of the hill ; (2) Haret e t T u f e n is on the flat ground to the north; (3) Haret es Sejjiyeh, on the east, is also on the lower ground, and built of mud ; (4) Haret e z Z e i t u n, on the south, extends down the sides of the mound. There are two principal mosques, besides others smaller. The one on the hill in the middle of the town (J a m i a el K e b i r) is an ancient [sheet AYA'.] TOPOGRAPHY. 235 church rebuilt as a mosque. The second, which is newer, is composed of much ancient material. Five minarets rise over the town, including that of 'Aly el Merwan in the eastern quarter — the traditional tomb of Samson, and that of Sidna Hashem (the father of the Prophet), who is buried on the north-west side of the town, near the brow of the hill. The Serai, or Court-house, is north-east of the great mosque. West of the town is the little sacred place of Sheikh Shaba n, and on the north beyond the houses is Sheikh Nabak. There is a Greek church in the town (see Section B), west of the great mosque. The water supply is from good wells of sweet water in the town and in the surrounding gardens. The names of 15 of these wells (all marked on the Plan as B) were collected, but are unimportant. Fine gardens surround Gaza, stretching 4 miles north and south, and 2\ east and west. There are many palms in these, and fine olive-groves exist beyond them on the west and north. The avenue of ancient trees along the north road, stretching for 4 miles, is the most remarkable characteristic of the town. There is a cemetery east, and another west, of the hill. On the south is the quarantine building in the gardens. There is a bazaar in the town, and soap is manufactured, as well as a peculiar black pottery. The potteries are west of the town. Cotton is sometimes grown, and dates, figs, olives, lentils, apricots and mulberries, melons and cucumbers, are grown in the gardens. The town has the reputation of being very healthy, probably from its dry and elevated position. The population is said to be at the present day 18,000 souls, of whom some 200 are Greek Orthodox Christians. The Samaritans had a synagogue in Gaza about a century ago. The remains of the ancient walls seem to be represented by the great mounds on the hill, visible on the east and south beyond the houses. The houses on the hill are the best built, being of stone, and many ancient fragments are here used up in the walls. (For antiquities see Section B.) 6. H e r b i e h (E v). — A good-sized mud village, with a pond, a well, 30—2 236 THE SUR VE V OF WESTERN PALESTINE. and gardens. To the south are remains of a former fortress. This is probably the mediaeval Furbia, (I tin. Ric. ch. xxxiii.) 7. Jebalieh (P w). — A large mud village, with gardens and palms and a well on the north-west. It has a mosque called J am id Abu B erj as. 8. El J u r a h (E u). — A mud village on flat ground outside Ascalon. It is probably the Yagur of the Talmud. (See Sheet XVI.) 9. El Meshaherah (D w). — A small village, or suburb of Gaza, on low ground in the gardens. It is well supplied with water from wells on the north and west called Biyaret el Bukkarah, Biyaret el Ghabari, and Biyaret el Wahasheh. 10. En Nuzleh (D w). — A small hamlet, a suburb of No. 7, with a well to the east. 11. Tiimrah, also called Beit Dimreh (D w). — A small village of mud on the side of a hill, with a garden and well below it on the north. In addition to the above, the ruined site of the ancient Ascalon is to be found on this Sheet (see Section B), and the ruin of Khurbet el 'Adar may perhaps represent the ancient Eder. (Joshua xv. 21.) Gaza had a port called Majuma (Reland, p. 791), which Julian the Apostate named Limena of Gaza (Xijidva t»7c Talng). This is probably the landing-place called el Mineh. There was here a separate town, which became a bishopric in the Byzantine period, and the ruins of el K i s h a n i near the landing-place are no doubt those of Majuma Gazce. SHEET XIX.— SECTION B. Archeology. 'Aly el Muntar (D w). — The curious hill south of Gaza is crowned by a Mukam, sacred to 'Aly of the Watchtower.' The Kubbeh is modern, with three domes. Several slabs with masons' marks are built into the pavement of the porch. There is also a lintel over the door, with a sculptured design on it representing two medallions with geometric designs, and in the centre a sort of niche with a cockle-shell ornamentation to the roof. This appears to be Byzantine work. (Compare Deir 'Arabeh, Sheet XIV.) The top of the hill is 272 feet above the sea at the trigonometrical station. The whole of the ground round the Kubbeh is covered with Moslem graves. Visited April, 1875. 'Askalan (E u). — The famous walls of Richard Lion-Heart, built in 1 192 A.D., are still traceable, and in parts standing to a considerable height. The town is bow-shaped, measuring f of a mile along the string north and south, and of a mile east and west, the total circum- ference being if miles. The walls are, on the south especially, covered by the rolling sand. The interior is occupied by gardens, and some 10 feet of soil covers the ruins. Palms, tamarisks, cactus, almonds, lemons, olives, and oranges are grown, with vegetables, including the famous shallots, named from the place. There are also a few vines. The place is well supplied with sweet water. In the gardens there are 37 wells, each some 3 feet diameter, and in some cases over 50 feet in depth. By each is a cemented reservoir, and a wooden roller for the rope. Marble shafts have been THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. used up for fixing the ropes, and by each well is a capital of marble which has generally the appearance of Crusading work. On the base of a pillar near a well in the middle of the ruins was the following inscription : ni KA(2)p - - The rest of the lettering is broken off Quantities of masonry pillars and sculptured fragments are found in digging to a depth of some lo feet. Inscriptions on slabs of white marble have also been discovered. There are many fine shafts of grey granite, some 3 feet diameter and 1 5 feet long, lying among the ruins in various parts. Many have also been used as thorough-bonds in the walls. The masonry of the walls is throughout small, and the stone a friable sandy limestone, but the mortar used is extremely hard and full of black ashes, and of shells from the beach ; the walls have fallen in blocks, and the stone seems to have given way in preference to the cement. There is no harbour, but on the coast are rocky precipices from 20 to 70 feet high. To the south near the jetty there are reefs of rock below the water. The lowest part of the town is between the ruined church in the north-west corner and the sacred Mukam of el K h li d r. A sort of valley here runs down, and the cliffs above the beach are lower. The cliff in the north-west corner is the highest part. There are remains of five towers on the land side of the wall. In the north-west corner of the town are remains of a wall, with a deep masonry well 4 feet diameter, beside which is a cistern. A large ruined tower is situate 150 yards north of the mainland entrance. It is 40 feet square, with round turrets 12 feet diameter in the north-east and south-east corners. The interior is supported on vaults ; the turrets were solid at the base. At an equal distance south of the gate is a tower projecting 28 feet, and 34 feet wide outside. The wall south of it is carried back 28 feet, so that flank defence is obtained on that side. At the south-east angle of the wall is a fourth ruined tower ; a fallen block of masonry is alone visible. Near the south-west corner of the fortification is a tower 50 feet broad, projecting 64 feet, and apparently there was here a postern gate. In addition to the towers there were buttresses on the walls, appa- [sheet XIX.'] ARCHEOLOGY. 239 rently at intervals of 100 feet. These projected 8 to 13 feet, and were 4 feet wide. There are also on the east three large buttresses, 24 feet by 6 feet 9 inches, and south of the main gate is a wedge-shaped buttress 14 feet thick at the back, 2 feet in front, 17 feet along one side, 13 feet along the other. The eastern or land gate is constructed like most of the twelfth century fortress gates, in such a manner as to secure flank defence. The entrance was from the south, in a wall running out at right angles to the main wall east and west. There are remains of an outer wall east of the main wall about 35 yards from it, and this appears to have covered the entrance. The angle between the main wall and that projecting from it was strengthened by a polygonal tower on the south, foundations of which remain. A block of masonry lies fallen on one side (Palestine Exploration Fund Photograph, old series. No. 257). It is 20 feet diameter, and 5 feet 9 inches in height, being apparently the base of a turret, probably flanking the gate. This must have been overthrown by violent means, probably in the destruction of the walls by Saladin, according to the treaty of 1192 a.d. (Itin. Ric. bk. vi., ch. xxviii.) Excavations have at some time or other been made at this gate, and at the tower on the wall north of it. The sea gate is in the sea wall, near the south-west corner of the fortifications. The same care is shown here also in constructing the entrance. There is an outer wall running parallel with the west wall. It is 3^ feet thick, and the clear space between is 9 feet. It appears to have extended for 66 feet. A wall also runs out from the main wall, and joined the outer wall apparently at its south end. The gate in the wall is immediately north of this projecting wall, and on its north side is a buttress projecting 2 feet, and at a clear distance of 8 feet from the projecting wall. The passage thus formed protects the gate either side, and a party approaching had first to proceed south for 66 feet, and then turned east through a passage 8 feet wide, and entered the gate, which was only 3 feet wide. A tower stood on the wall north of the gate, and projected inwards for 22 feet, forming an internal flanking defence to the gate. Inside this tower was a vaulted cistern, 7 feet east and west by 19 feet north and south, lined with hard white cement. Steps led up the side of the precipice to this sea gate, and below a 240 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. small jetty ran out into the water. It was formed, like that at Caesarea, of the shafts of granite pillars laid side by side. Similar shafts project from the walls all along the sea face of the town, for the ashlar has here been either removed or disappeared, and only the rubble core of the walls remains, with the pillars sticking out from it. In the north quarter of the town are remains of a church. The bearing is 94° west, and traces of one of the apses were visible. The walls remain, running in the direction stated for 60 or 80 feet, and, on the north, part of the wall is standing to a height of some 6 or 8 feet ; but the plan is now not distinguishable, and the ashlar has been taken away, leaving only rubble. Inside the church are several pillar bases of white marble, which have been dug up. They have on them marks which resemble Phoenician letters, and which are cut on the upper sides, so that they were covered by the bottom of the shaft of the pillar. rf j^*^ ^ Similar marks on the shafts of pillars were found in 18S1 in the Temple at 'Amman; they are possibly intended by the masons as ' good-luck ' marks to ensure stability. On the north wall also two masons' marks were noted : + L The remaining ruins are of less importance. There is a small building on the cliff, further south than the church, to which the name el Khudra is now given. It measures 9 paces either way, with an entrance on the north, on which side is a porch of the same size. The windows of the building have round arches, and it may perhaps be of early date. Between it and the sea, on the edge of the cliff, is a grave, apparently modern. In the south quarter of the town are the foundations of a large building, measuring 37 paces along a line 112° west, and 15 paces at right angles. It has a projection to the east, as if there had been an apse. But the masonry has a comparatively modern appearance. {SHEET XIX.'l ARCHEOLOGY. 241 The natives say there were formerly two churches in the ruins. A curious vessel of black basalt, like a mortar, with two trunnions, and with a Maltese cross cut in relief on the side, was sketched. Various pieces of ornamental sculpture and a bracket of marble representing a lion's paw were observed, with many marble capitals of small pillars. A fine Gothic inscription from a Crusading tomb has been taken to Jaffa from Ascalon ; and many fragments, Roman and mediaeval, are con- stantly found by the peasantry. Visited 3rd, 9th, and loth of April, 1875. Surveyed with a chain and prismatic compass. It does not appear that the walls described above were the actual work of King Richard, who, in fact, rebuilt the ramparts and towers which had been hastily demolished by Saladin. The following description of the fortress by William of Tyre shows that it was existing a hundred years before Richard's conquest : ' Ascalon is one of the first cities of the Philistines. It is situated on the seashore in the form of a semicircle, the diameter of which is on the coast and the circumference lies on the east. The whole city is in a sort of hollow declining towards the sea, girt round on every side by artificial mounds, above which are ramparts flanked by numerous towers of solid work, the very cement of the joints being harder than stone. The walls are of suitable thickness, and are proportionately high, and there are also ante-walls of strong construction built round and carefully fortified. There is no spring within the city nor without, but it abounds in wells both within and without which yield agreeable and pleasant water. The citizens have also constructed cisterns within the town for the reception of rainwater. There were on the circuit of the walls four gates carefully provided with lofty and solid towers. The first of these on the eastern side is called the Greater Gate, or the Jerusalem Gate, because it looks towards the sacred city. It has two very lofty towers, which seem to overlook the whole town, as its strength and protection. This gate is preceded by three or four smaller gates in the ante-walls, through which it is approached by certain winding ways. The second is that which looks to the west, and is called the Sea Gate. The third, on the south, is called the Gaza Gate, because it looks towards that city. The fourth, on the north, is called the Joppa Gate, because that city is the nearest. There is no port or safe approach for ships, but only a sandy shore dangerous of access. Outside the city the soil is beset with sand, yet con- venient for vine and fruit-trees. Towards the north a few valleys, fertilized by irrigation, yield some advantage of fruit and herbs to the people.' It is probable, therefore, that the works of Richard were a restoration rather than a reconstruction. The final destruction is due to the Sultan Bibars in the year 1270. Possibly a search among Arab historians would explain the history of those fortifications described by William of Tyre. Gu^rin, who visited the ruins in 1854, and reported on them in 1857, examined them with special attention to the description given above. After following the walls round the city, he states that he found within their enclosure — I. The site of a church in the middle of the city, the remains consisting of the vestiges j of an apse and of the side walls. These walls were thick, built of rubble with an external VOL. III. 31 242 THE SUR VE V OF WESTERN PALESTINE. coating of regular and well-cut stones perfectly cemented. It is oriented to the east, and perhaps belongs to the Byzantine period. 2. South-east of this monument two great walls are upright, unfallen, built of the same masonry, more than 6 feet thick. His guide called it el K a 1 a t i. 3. Vaulted chambers, about on a level with the ground, communicating, according to the guide, with the seashore by means of a subterranean passage. These are called el H a b s, the prison. 4. A great circular hole 13 paces in diameter, called the Bir Abraham el Haurain. He suggests that this is Puteus Pacis, spoken of by Antoninus Martyrus, and the B e r Abraham el Khalil, mentioned by Benjamin of Tudela. ' 5. The remains of a second church built upon the site of a Pagan temple, and itself converted into a mosque. On the site of the church lie the columns dug up by Lady Hester Stanhope in the year 181 5. She excavated by the help of 150 Arabs the supposed site of the old temple of Astarte, where was supposed to be buried a hidden treasure. They found, as later on were found at Jerusalem, quantities of fragments, in layers representing different periods, the pavements dividing and marking the periods of building. A white marble statue was also discovered, but as no treasure was dug up, the Arabs destroyed the statue, thinking that gold was contained within it. The excavations lasted a fortnight. When the time comes for digging in Palestine, Ascalon, Csesarea, Gaza, and Tyre, should be among the first places to be examined. 6. In a garden near the preceding, a column in grey granite of smaller diameter than those mentioned above. 7. In the west part of the city the foundations of a third church built east and west, with three naves. 8. "What appeared to be the site of a theatre. 9. A long wall, formerly part of the enclosure of a great building, cisterns, and wells. The following is the account given by Colonel Warren of this place : ' The city is 24 miles, as the crow flies, from the present ruin of Timnath, whence Samson came to plunder the thirty changes of garments for the payment of those who had expounded his riddle ; though this is the only incident with regard to the whole city recorded in the Bible, yet it is impossible to visit these ruins at the present day without realizing, perhaps more than in any other ancient city west of Jordan, the utter overthrow of power that has taken place, the desolation which reigns supreme ; the walls of indurated sandstone, though now of small-sized stones, were once formed of massive blocks, as is seen by the remains here and there that have not been cut down for other purposes or carried away to Acca or Saidon ; great columns of granite 17 to 18 feet in length, and 2 to 2% feet in diameter, project from the faces of the existing walls, used as thorough-bonds, though hardly necessary, it seems, for the intensely hard mortar has united the stones into one solid mass, which has only again been broken by some great force, probably gunpowder. Examine these walls : great discs of masonry overlapping each other in confusion, and it is apparent that they have been overturned at no very remote period. Some of these walls may have been built by the ladies of England as an offering to their country and lion-hearted king during the Crusades. ' One view taken shows us the sycamore fig-tree, now loaded with its burden of fruit, the hollow fig, which, though refreshing when picked from the tree, is considered too inferior a fruit to be eaten by any but the poorest of the people. See how the trunk of the tree, acted WEST DOOR OF THE CHURCH OF JOHN, GAZA {SHEET XIX.] ARCHMOLOGY. 243 upon in its early growth by the prevailing wind, the sea breeze, has bent over the narrow path- way for nearly 30 feet, at a distance of 8 to 10 feet from the ground, offering a secure seat to any who, like the lowly Zacch?eus, wish to have a view of all that pass that way. ' In another we have a picture of the sea coast with the surf breaking on the shore. Just outside that surf, as we were coming up from Gaza, we observed a large shark moving about, and on going down to the beach at x\skelon at sunrise to have a swim, I saw two sharks loitering about within a few yards, apparently waiting for me ; and not wishing to gratify their appetites, I dabbled in shallow water. These sharks are larger than any I have seen in these latitudes, and their appearance reminds us that this is the coast on which the prophet Jonah was disgorged by the great fish that had swallowed him up. A few miles further up the shore to the north is the Neby Yunas, the monument of Jonah's, which vies in tradition with another point near Saidon as his landing-place. The booths used in the gardens by the watchmen of the fruit trees also remind us of his history, for they are similar in construction to that gourd- covered booth he rested in outside of Nineveh.' ' About Askelon there are the most delicious apples, which were just now ripe, fully equal in flavour to any I have tasted elsewhere, but, in keeping with so many of the Palestine fruits, they are sadly in want of proper treatment ; they have dwindled down to one-half the bulk of an ordinary English eating apple. Dr. Thomson speaks of these apples of Askelon, but Dr. Tristram ("The Land of Israel," p. 604) suggests that he mistook the quince for the apple, and doubts whether apples grow in Palestine at the present day. ' Although so little remains of ancient Askelon in situ, coins and bronzes are constantly being turned up by the plough and by the crumbling of earth during the heavy rains ; at this time agents come down from Jerusalem and buy up all that they can lay hands on, and sell at immense prices to pilgrims in the Holy City. I was able to secure on the spot some small bronzes of the Egyptian gods, Osiris and Isis, and also a very elegant mutilated figure of Hercules, and the remains of a fish god ; the greater portion, however, of the bronzes are distinctly Egyptian, and similar to those in the P>ritish Museum ; the coins found are generally Roman, or of the Crusaders, or Cufic.'—' Quarterly Statement,' 1871, p. 89. M. Clermont Ganncau procured a small slab of marble found at Ascalon in which was a sculpture representing two doves, birds symbolical of the town. The question of the M a i u m a s Ascalon was raised by the late Professor Pusey in the following letter published in the ' Quarterly Statement ' for 1874, pp. 30—32 : ' Novci/iber 2^t/i, 1873. ' I had, perhaps, better say what my ground is for thinking that the Ascalon of the Crusades cannot be the Philistine Ashkelon. ' You have yourself, I see (" Dictionary of Bible," Jabneel), drawn attention to the Maiumas of Gaza and Ascalon and Jamnia. There were also two places called Azotus, one by the sea (see " Reland," p. 215). The three, then, Gaza, Jabneel, Ashdod, were inland ; and were, I suppose, like Athens, purposely so built for fear of pirates. Even Gaza, which was nearest, was (it appears from Soz. v. 3) distinct in boundary from Maiumas. They had fields {//-ypoi) belonging to each, having altars between them. ' The probability, on the ground of its having a port, and from the three other cases, is that Ascalon itself was inland. Ascalon and its Maiumas must have been distinct cities, since the bishop of each signed a synodical letter inserted in the Acts of the Council of Con- 31 — 2 244 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. stantinople, a.d. 536, as also the Bishop of Gaza and Maiumas Gazce. (It is in col. 1163, 1 164 of the " Cone. T. v." ed. Colct.) But it is so well known a rule that there cannot be two bishops of one town, that when Julian had annexed the Maiumas Gazaj to Gaza, the Bishop of Gaza on a subsequent vacancy in the episcopate of the Maiumas claimed that its clergy should on this ground be subject to him, though it was locally distinct. The pro- vincial council refused it, because the civil privileges had been taken away from Maiumas Gazae by a heathen prince, on account of its Christianity. But, according to all descriptions, Ascalon has too little depth from the sea to have ever contained two towns, and its outside boundary is very marked, being built along a natural ridge, in the shape of a bow, the cord, as AVilliam of Tyre describes it, being towards the sea. ' 2. Benjamin of Tudela, who must have been on the spot, says that " Ashkelona is new Ashkelon, which Ezra the priest built on the seashore, and at first they called it Benibra, and it is four parasangs distant from the former Ashkelon, which is desert." His account was naturally the tradition of the Jews whom he found there. Benjamin of Tudela's pro- nunciation of the modern town is Ashkelonah (as in the time of the Crusades it is Askelona), whereas, in his explanation, he speaks of " new Ashkelon," " the old Ashkelon " keeping the Biblical termination. His account is too concise for him to give an explanation, but Benibra is doubtless a Greek corruption for Bethnimrah (as Bethnabris in Eusebius is for the Beth- nimrah, or later Bethnimrim, of Gad), and the sweetness of its waters (the aqua potabiks within it) is noted by successive writers, I suppose because, so near the sea, they might be expected to be brackish. I think that the tradition in his time, that there was an Ashkelon which lay waste, is remarkable, though the Jews, his informants, might be inaccurate as to its distance, as they were not much concerned about the site of a desert place. ' I myself think it most probable that the Askalon which Herod beautified was the present Askalon ; and that it, the Maiumas Ascalonis, being the more considerable, obtained the name of Ascalon, as Windsor and Sarum must, I suppose, have been originally New Windsor, New Sarum, and yet in early times have been called absolutely Windsor, Sarum ; and what is now called Shoreham was, in my memory, still New Shoreham. There must have been great accumulations of sand, which may have buried the old Ascalon, since the sands are only held back by the walls, with which they seem to be almost level, from burying the new Ascalon. ' Looking at Porter's map, there is apparently a plain enclosed in a sort of triangle between the roads from Burbareh to el Mijdel and that which turns off to Askulan. The places which he mentions (p. 268) are not marked in the map. " One mile from Burbareh is Jiyeh ; half an hour beyond it is Beitimah," which must have been, I suppose, where the two roads part. For Porter says, " Our path turns to the north-west, along the border of the sandhills. In twenty-five minutes we come to Nalieh, a poor village on the east side of a low narrow plat?i, which appears to be sometimes flooded in the winter. A ride of ten minutes across the plain, and twenty minutes more over the broad ridge of sand, brings us to the gate of Ascalon." ' I. But the Jews (" Josephus," B. J. 3, 2) were assaulting Ascalon. If, then, f/iaf Ascalon were the present Ascalon (which I am inclined to think), where is " f/ie whole plain," which was " broad, and the whole of it suited for the action of cavalry " (-ai/ 'i---radi,'Mov), over which the flying Jews were scattered and 10,000 killed? ' 2. What is the depth of Ascalon ? Is it so built that there could be two distinct cities M'ithin its present walls, so that one should be an inland city, the other its port ? In a {SHEET XIX.'] ARCHEOLOGY. 245 description which I have seen, there is mention of a creek running up into the present city^ though the harbour was purposely destroyed by Sultan Bibars, in order to preclude any renewed landing of Crusaders there.' These remarks were answered as follows by Captain Conder : ' In the January number of the "Quarterly Statement" for 1874, subscribers will remember a letter from Professor Pusey, to which my attention was specially called by the Committee, in which the identity of the Ascalon of Herod and of the Crusades with the Ashkelon of Scripture is disputed. The arguments in favour of this view are both drawn from mediseval sources, the first being the fact that in 536 a.d. a synodical letter was signed both by the Bishop of Ashkelon and by the Bishop of Maiumas Ascalon, from which it is evident that the two were distinct towns ; the second passage is to be found in Benjamin of Tudela, who distinctly states that there was another Ascalon four parasangs from the sea-side town, and traditionally the more ancient, the Ascalon of his time having been built, he informs us, by Ezra. This other Ascalon was at that time (1163 a.d.) in ruins. The value of the tradi- tional information here given is, however, very slight, as Benjamin of Tudela gives identifica- tions of the most extraordinary character throughout his narrative. The passage is of value as corroborating the former in the statement that there were two Ascalons, but the distance cannot be relied on ; for whilst the distances of places through which Rabbi Benjamin passed are generally pretty correct, those of places he did not visit are often very much in error. The distances from Ashkelon to Ashdod he makes two parasangs, which would give 5 miles for the parasang, and 20 miles as the distance between the two Ascalons. ' It appears, then, that as far as positive evidence goes, the argument only tends to show that there were two media2val Ascalons. Which of these was the Ashkelon of Herod or of Scripture is a separate question. The mediaeval Ascalons both exist still, as we have been the first, I believe, to discover. ' We were considerably surprised to find, when working north of Beit Jibrin, that an Ascalon (Khurbet 'Askalon) existed in the hills near Tell Zakariyeh. At first I thought a false name had been purposely given us, but as I obtained it twice myself, and Corporal Brophy three times, from different witnesses, there is no doubt that it is a well-known site. The termination of the word differs from the name of the sea-side town, which is pronounced 'Askalan. The site shows remains of an early Christian church or convent, and a great lintel of stone, with a deeply cut cross in the centre, resembling somewhat the Maltese cross, lies on the ground. Such lintels are to be found in all that class of ruins which date from about the fifth to the seventh century. The distance from the shore is about 23 miles, which would agree with the four parasangs as deduced from the distance to Ashdod, but I am not able to find the length of the parasang given in any book we have here. ' Thus we have a simple explanation of the two mediaeval quotations. 'Askalon we should judge to have been an inhabited site in the sixth century, but in all probability fallen into ruins by the twelfth. 'We may now turn to the questions of the ancient site of Askclon. That it should be placed at the Christian ruin in the hills is of course impossible ; and our information, though very slight, and restricted to one passage in the Bible, and one in Josephus, seems to nie, nevertheless, to point to the Philistine Ashkelon being identical with the mediaeval Ascalon. The only passage in the Bible of topographical value as concerns Ashkelon is that in Jeremiah xlvii. 7, where the prophet speaks of " Ashkelon and the sea-coast," leading one to 346 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. suppose that the medieval Ascalon, or Maiumas Ascalon (Ascalon by the sea), is intended. In the absence of any contradictory statement, it seems to me also safe to assume that the Ascalon of the later Jewish times was that beautified by Herod ; and it can be proved, I think, that Herod's Ascalon was both that of the Bible and that of the Crusaders, for, in the first place, Josephus distinctly states that the Ascalon where the Jews attacked Antonius (Book iii. ii. i) was " ancient that is distant from Jerusalem 520 furlongs." This would be about 65 Roman miles. The present Ascalon is only about 50 Roman miles by road from Jerusalem, so that it cannot well be taken to mean any inland town. In the second place, the Ascalon of Herod and Richard are probably the same, for we learn that " for those of Ascalon he built baths and costly fountains, as also cloisters round a court, that were admirable both for their workmanship and largeness" (B.J. i. 21, 11). In the Itinerary of Richard I., we find it mentioned that the builders erected their towers upon ancient foundations, and we find that all along its huge walls great columns of syenite, 15 to 20 feet long and 3 feet diameter, have been built into the masonry as thorough-bonds. Such was indeed the constant practice of the Crusaders in any place where ancient pillars were to be found, but in such sites as 'Athlit they do not occur; and as the syenite must have been brought by sea from Egypt, we cannot suppose the Crusaders to have first brought these pillars to Ascalon, but must regard them as the remains of Herod's cloisters utilized by those practical masons to whose indifference to archaeology we owe the loss of many an interesting monument. ' The outcome of this inquiry is, therefore, that the Ashkelon of the Bible, and of Herod, and of the Crusaders, are all one town on the seashore, distinguished from another early Christian inland Ascalon by the title Ascalon Maiumas. ' This title may, I believe, be best rendered by our English " watering-place," and, like it, does not apparently apply to a port or harbour only, for the fine springs north of Ceesarea, with remains of a temple and theatre, and of a great aqueduct to the city, still retain the name of Miamas, which is no doubt the representative of an ancient Maiumas, m place of water. ' Ascalon not only has not, but it may be safely said never could have had, a real port. A straight coast-line of cliffs, from 20 to 70 feet high, exists on its sea side, and a strong sea wall was built by the Crusaders against these. The port destroyed by Sultan Bibars must have been an artificial Crusading harbour, of which there are still remains, for a jetty of pillars placed side by side, as at Ca^sarea, seems to have run out beneath the sea-gate on the south, a few of those nearest the shore still remaining in place. That it possessed no natural harbour in the middle ages is evident from the following passage, which I quote at length, as clearly showing that the Maiumas Ascalon of Christian times could not have applied to any properly so-called port : — ' " The city of Ascalon lies on the coast of the Grecian Sea, and if it had a good harbour, could hardly find an equal for its situation and the fertility of the adjoining country. It has, indeed, a port, but one so difficult of access, owing to the stormy weather in which the army reached it (January, 1192), that for eight days no vessel could enter it. . . . At last, when the weather became more favourable, some ships entered the harbour with provisions ; but the storm returned, and the army began again to be in want." ' At the present time a small brig is lying off the coast taking in a cargo, but it is unsafe for ships to approach too near, and the wreck of one vessel lies on the sand a little north of the ruins. It is evident that the harbour cannot have been much better in Crusading times, {SHEET XIX.] ARCHAEOLOGY. 247 when English sailors were unable to bring food to the starving army. It is true that the sand has covered a great deal of the ruins, but the existence of a creek is rendered, I think, impossible by the unbroken line of cliff, at the foot of which low reefs run out into the sea. ' Next to the question of the Maiumas comes that of the sacred lake of Derceto, but of this we could find no traces, unless the name of the modern village north of the ruins el Jura, " the hollow " — generally applied to an artificial reservoir or pond — be supposed to preserve a tradition of the site. The village itself stands pretty high, but there is a low tract full of beautiful gardens between the ruins and the houses.' — 'Quarterly Statement,' 1875, pp. 152—155- Ascalon has also been visited and described by Tobler, Dr. Porter, Barclay (" City of the Great King "), Herr Schick, and Herr Gulhe. The last writer, in a description of the place (published in the ' Zeitschrift ' of the German Palestine Exploration Association), thus speaks of the western wall and the bay : 'The western wall, the "string of the bow," follows the line of rocks exactly, and is therefore indented with little bays. It is about 1,200 feet long; at its opposite ends, i.e., at the south-west and north-west corners of the town, there are extensive ruins of fortifications that were undoubtedly intended for the protection of the coast. The " sea-gate " or '•'■porta maris," mentioned by AViiliam of Tyre, is nearly in the middle of the western wall. The ground reaches its lowest point near the south-western corner. At this place a little bay stretches into the city ; it somewhat resembles a moderate-sized basin. In spite of the drifting sand, the ground here is even now but little higher than the level of the sea. This bay in old times was most assuredly a dock or harbour within the walls ; the fortifications on either side of it were particularly strong. A great number of solid columns of grey granite were laid like beams across the thickness of the fortifications ; when the walls fell into ruins, many of them tumbled upon the beach, where they now lie, and are washed by the waves of the sea ; the rest are buried under the debris of the masonry. This use of the columns is not only to be seen near the harbour, but also in other parts of the fortifications of Ascalon. Guerin says that those built in columns seemed from a distance like loopholes with the muzzles of the cannon peeping out. Of course the columns originally belonged to the grand halls and temples of ancient Ascalon. The Saracens first, and then the Crusaders, used the pillars and stones of the old buildings for the defence of the city without a thought about their historical or artistic value, a state of affairs that Guerin remarked had also obtained at Csesarea. From this we perceive that the ruins of the walls of Ascalon which now exist are the remains of the fortifications built by the Saracens and Crusaders.' Beit Hanun (D v). Among the gardens of this village Gue'rin observed indications of ancient constructions in the shape of cut stones, fragments of columns, and bases. Deir el Belah (B x). — The mosque in the village is called J a mi 4 el Khiidr, and stands, traditionally, on the site of a large monastery. The building was entered from a courtyard on the south. It proved to be a Christian chapel, 5 paces north and south 248 THE SURVEY OF WESTERN PALESTINE. 1 . n by II paces east and west, on a line 112° west. On the north, and on the south wall is a buttress. On the east are three apses, the side ones being mere niches. One of the steps from the door in the south wall has on it re- mains of a Greek inscription. On the floor of the chapel is a slab, now broken. It appears to have been a tombstone, 6 feet long by 2 feet 6 inches high, having on it two Maltese crosses, N°3 each with the letters A and Q. In the wall of the court pillar-shafts of marble, and a bit of well- moulded cornice have been built in. There are also two Greek inscrip- tions, one on the floor of the chapel near the east end, one on a slab now used on a well in the court- yard ; this second has a hole cut through the slab, 10 inches diameter, obliterating part of the inscrip- tion. There is a modern masonry cenotaph, placed north and south, in the middle of the chapel, said to be the tomb of Mar Jirjis or el Khiidr, both names for St. George. No. I, on the interior, reads as below, the slab being 25 inches by 18 inches. The letters are i^ inches high, the three lines 9 inches high. The second slab measures 31 inches by 18. The letters are the same size as on the first. In the village there are pillar-shafts of white marble built up into walls, or lying about. One of them has a twisted form, like some of the mediaeval pillars in the Haram at Jerusalem. Visited 28th April, 1875. Ghi^izzeh (D w). — The principal archaeological points of interest are the J a m i a el K e b i r, Bab e d D a r u n, and M e i d a n e z Z e i d. Green mounds extend round the houses on the hill, and seem to indicate the ruins of former fortifications. These show probably the site of the walls of Crusading Gaza. (lTl