Wm. Head & Sons, f 13 FANEUIL HALL SQUARE, B08T0N. FINE GUNS,SH00TING I FISHING TACKLE Constantly on hand a large stock of Double and Single Guns, comprising EVERY VARIETY and make, muzzle-loading and breech-loading, and ALL articles pertaining to them. ALL THE BEST BREECH-LOADERS, “Scott’s,” “ Westley Richard’s,” “ Webley’s,” “ Greener’s,” “Moore’s,” “ W. Rich- ard’s, of Liverpool,” “ Ellis’s,” and all others. Also the “ Roper,” and other American makes. We maize a specialty of“W. & C. Scott & Son’s ” fine Breech- Load- ing Double GrtinSf which for fine , elegant finish, and close and strong shooting powers are unsurpassed. Scott’s New Booh on Breech-Loaders f elegantly bound in Morocco , sent on receipt of 25 cts • kk 99 FINE MUZZLE-LOADERS, IN GREAT VARIETY, FOR SNIPE, PLOVER, & DUCK SHOOTING, Bored to Slioot Close and Strong. Persons ordering from a distance, by stating SIZE, BORE, WEIGHT, &c., will be served as well as if present. Fine Breech-Loading or Muzzle-Loading Guns imported to order of any make or size. “FISHING-TACKLE” IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. ALSO, FINE “BRONZE YACHT-GUNS” One-poundcrs, mounted on Mahogany Carriages, complete. Also, “BUSSEY’S” PATENT GYRO-PIGEON AND TRAP, A Substitute for live Birds in Shooting- Hatches. ALSO, MAYNARD’S, WESSON’S, WINCHESTER’S, AND ALL OTHER RIFLES! CLOSING OUT, A SMALL LOT OF “Ballard” Breech-Loading Rifles at $18.00 — all new and of latest model — regular price, $38.00! fly SEND FOR PRICE-LISTS AND CIRCULARS. JBA ADVENiJhES V.'ILPERNESS ; OR, Camp-Life in the Adirondacks. By REV, WILLIAM H. H. MURRAY. 1 vol. 16mo. $ 1.50. Tourists’ Edition, containing an excellent map of the Adi- rondack Willderness, indicating all the Routes, Lakes, and notable Places ; also Maps and Tables showing routes and distances to this summer resort which Mr. Murray’s fascinating book has brought so prominently to public notice. $2.00. “ In the little book before us, Mr. Murray describes the incidents of a summer’s rambles in the Adirondacks, spent in fishing and hunting. He not only tells you how to ‘ rig ’ a line, bait a hook, manage a gun, kill, cure, and cook game, with all the zest of the professional sportsman, but he enters right into the heart of Nature, and pictures her in all her vary- ing phases We know of no sportsman who writes so lovingly and so graphically unless it be immortal Kit North, and Mr. Murray’s trout is worthy to rank with the latter’s famous capture of the salmon .” — Chicago Tribune. “This book is a guide to the best hunting and fishing region of America. It is more ; for its descriptions are charming, and the pure gold of enchantment is thrown over them, so that the book is bewitching to a novice in the sportsman’s art. We predict for it an im- mense sale and a multitude of enthusiastic friends.” — Providence Pre#e. ON THE WING: A BOOK FOR SPORTSMEN. By JOHN BUMSTEAD. FULLY ILLUSTRATED 16mo. $2.50. “ ‘ A Book for Sportsmen.’ A more accurate description would be ‘ a book which no sportsman can do without.’ Mr. Bumstead is authority upon all the topics of which he treats, including clear instructions for the selection and use of guns, very full and valuable hints for the student’s guidance in different kinds of shooting, in buying gunpowder, in training dogs, and in fitting himself out for the woods, a very interesting description of how gun-barrels are made, and an appendix which is full of practical information.” — Hartford Courant. “ All fond of sporting will find in it valuable suggestions as to selecting guns and caring for them, shooting woodcock, quail, grouse, snipe, rabbits, and all kinds of water-fowl, together with interesting details as to the manufacture of guns, gunpowder, &c.” — Rural New Yorker. “ It is the best work of the kind ever published in this country.” — Buffalo Commercial Advertiser. V Eor sale by Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the Publishers, JAMES R. OSGOOD A CO., Boston. NOTICE: Return or renew all Library Materials! The Minimum Fee for each Lost Book is $50.00. The person charging this material is responsible for its return to the library from which it was withdrawn on or before the Latest Date stamped below. Theft, mutilation, and underlining of books are reasons for discipli- nary action and may result in dismissal from the University. To renew call Telephone Center, 333-8400 NEW ENGLAND: A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. A GUIDE TO THE CHIEF CITIES AND POPULAR RESORTS OF NEW ENGLAND, AND TO ITS SCENERY AND HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS : WITH THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS, FROM NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. With Six Maps and Eleven Elans. BOSTON: JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, Late Ticknor & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 1873 . OF THE U N I V E. R_S ITY Of ILLI NOIS from Carl Sandburg’s Library 917.4 Sw3n 1873 NEW ENGLAND: A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. A GUIDE TO THE CHIEF CITIES AND POPULAR RESORTS OF NEW ENGLAND, AND TO ITS SCENERY AND HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS: WITH THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS, FROM NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. With Six Maps and Eleven Elans. BOSTON : •V JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, Late Ticknor & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 1873 . Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, BY JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. University Press: Welch, Bigelow, & Co. Cambridge. *}/7. V S^3 n 1^73 PREFACE. \ The chief object of the Handbook for New England is to supply the place of a guide in a land where professional guides cannot he found, and to assist the traveller in gaining the greatest possible amount of pleasure and information while passing through the most ancient and interesting district of Anglo- Saxon America. New England has hitherto been but casually treated in books which cover wider sections of country ; special localities within its borders have been described with more or less fidelity in local guide-books ; but the present volume is the first which has been devoted to its treatment according to the most approved principles of the European works of similar purpose and character. The Handbook is designed to enable travellers to visit all or any of the notable places in New England, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories of the old coast and border towns, statements of the principal scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, biographical sketches in connection with the birthplaces of eminent men, and statistics of the chief industries of the included States. The half-forgotten but worthy and heroic records of the early colonial era and the French and Indian wars have received special attention in connection with the localities rendered classic in those remote days, while numerous Indian legends will be found in various places. The operations of the Wars of the Revolution and of 1812 (so far as they affected this section of the Republic) have been carefully studied and localized, and the rise of the great modern manufacturing cities has been traced 1Y PREFACE. and recorded. The famous summer-resorts — among the moun- tains and by the sea — with which New England abounds, and which are thronged by visitors from all parts of the country, have been described at length in these pages. The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which have made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or verified from the Editor’s personal experience, after fifteen months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. But infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especially amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, and hence the Editor would be grateful for any bond fide correc- tions or suggestions with which either travellers or residents may favor him. He would also thankfully acknowledge his indebted- ness to the gentlemen who have revised the book in advance of publication. The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to similar figures attached to lists of the chief public buildings, hotels, churches, and notable objects. The most trustworthy time-tables are found in “ Snow’s Pathfinder Bail way Guide,” with map, published weekly at Boston (price 15 c.). The hotels indicated by asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor to be the most comfortable and elegant. CONTENTS PAGE I. Language 1 II. Money and Travelling Expenses 1 III. Railways and Steamboats. The Check System .... 1 IV. Excursions on Foot 2 V. Hotels 3 VI. Round-Trip Excursions 4 VII. Climate and Dress 4 VIII. Miscellaneous Notes 4 NEW ENGLAND. ROUTE 1. Boston 5 2. Environs of Boston 20 1. Boston Harbor. The Route to Nahant 20 2. Nahant 21 3. The Route to Hull, Hingham, &c 22 4. Hull * 23 5. Hingham. Charlestown 24 6. Chelsea. Revere Beach 27 7. Lexington and Concord 28 8. Cambridge. Harvard University 29 9. Mount Auburn 33 10. Brookline 35 11. Roxbury 36 3. Boston to New York by Newport 36 1. Newport . 40 2. The Approach to New York 47 4. Boston to S. Duxbury 48 5. Boston to Plymouth 51 6. Boston to Cape Cod ... .54 1. Fairhaven Branch 54 2. Marshpee 56 7. Boston to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket . . . .58 1. Gayhead 60 8. Boston to New York by Providence 62 1. Providence 63 2. Providence to Newport. Narragansett Bay 65 3. Providence to Warren and Bristol 66 VI CONTENTS. ROUTE PAGE 4. Narragansett Pier 68 5. Watch Hill Point 70 6. Stonington to New York. Block Island 71 7. New Haven 77 9. Boston to New Bedford 90 1. New Bedford to Martha’s Vineyard. The Elizabeth Islands . 92 10. Providence to Worcester 93 11. Providence to Hartford and Waterbury 94 12. New London to Vermont 96 1. S. Vernon to Keene 102 13. Norwich to Nashua 104 14. Saybrook to Hartford 106 15. New Haven to Northampton 108 16. Bridgeport to Winsted Ill 17. Bridgeport to the Berkshire Hills 114 18. S. Norwalk to Danbury 115 19. Boston to New York (by Norwich) 117 1. Boston to Woonsocket 120 20. Hartford to Salisbury and Millerton 120 21. Boston to New York (by Springfield) 124 1. S. Framingham to Lowell and to Mansfield .... 125 2. S. Framingham to Fitchburg 126 3. Worcester 127 4. Springfield 131 5. Hartford . 134 22. Boston to Albany, Saratoga, and the West 141 23. The Berkshire Hillst 142 1. Pittsfield and its Environs . ..... . 144 2. Stockbridge 149 3. N. Adams 154 24. New York to Quebec. The Connecticut Valley towns . . 157 1. Mount Holyoke 160 2. Lake Memphremagog 171 25. Boston to the Hoosac Tunnel 175 26. Boston to Burlington (and Montreal) 179 1. Fitchburg to Peterboro’ . 179 27. Rutland to Bennington 184 28. Rutland to Albany 187 1. Rutland and Washington Line 187 29. Boston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal 188 1. Lowell 189 2. Nashua to Wilton 192 3. Concord to Claremont 196 4. St. Albans to Richford 206 5. St. Albans to Rouse’s Point . . 207 30. Boston to the Franconia Mountains 209 31. Boston to the White Mountains 213 1. Rochester to Portland 213 CONTENTS. vii ROUTE PAGE 32. Lake Winnepesaukee and the Sandwich Mountains . . . 215 1. Centre Harbor to Conway 219 2. Chocorua and Ossipee 220 33. The White Mountains and North Conway 221 1. North Conway 223 2. North Conway to the Glen House and Gorham .... 225 3. Gorham 227 4. Gorham to the Notch 229 5. North Conway to the Notch 230 6. The Crawford House to the Profile House 233 7. Mount Washington 234 34. The Franconia Mountains and the Pemigewasset Valley . . 238 1. The Profile House to Plymouth 241 2. Water ville and Campton 242 35. The Percy Peaks, Dixyille Notch, and Lake Umbagog . . 243 1. Colebrook to Umbagog and Rangeley 244 2. Connecticut Lake 245 36. Boston to Cape Ann 245 37. Boston to Portland and St. John 248 • 1. Peabody, Lowell, and Lawrence Branches . . . ■ . . 255 2. Marblehead Branch 255 3. Essex Branch 257 4. Amesbury Branch 261 5. The Isles of, Shoals 265 6. Portsmouth to Concord 267 7. Portland and its Environs 270 8. Casco Bay 274 38. Boston to Portland 275 1. Wakefield to Newburyport 276 2. Lawrence to Lowell or Manchester 279 3. Dover to Lake Winnepesaukee 282 39. Portland to the White Mountains 284 1. Lake Sebago 284 40. Portland to Quebec and Montreal ....... 287 1. Mechanic Falls to Canton 287 2. Bethel to Lake Umbagog 289 41. Portland to Farmington and the Western Maine Forest . 291 1. Farmington to the Rangeley Lakes . . .... 292 42. Portland to the Upper Kennebec 293 43. Boston or Portland to Moosehead Lake 295 44. Portland to Rockland 297 1. Wiscasset to Boothbay 299 2. Damaris cotta to Bristol and Pemaquid 299 45. Portland to Mount Desert 302 1. Castine 2. Bar Harbor 304 3. Southwest Harbor 306 4. Mount Desert to Machiasport 307 CONTENTS. viii ROUTE PAGE 46. Portland to Lewiston and Bangor 307 47. Portland to Augusta and Bangor 309 48. Boston to Bangor. The Penobscot Kiver 316 49. Bangor to St. John . 318 1. Fredericton, N. B 319 2. St. John River 320 50. The New Brunswick Border, Eastport to Madawaska . . 321 THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS OF NEW ENGLAND. 51. New York City 1. Central Park 2. Brooklyn 52. New York to Albany. The Hudson River . 1. The Highlands 2. The Catskill Mountains 3. Albany 53. Albany to Montreal 1. Saratoga 2. Fort Edward to Whitehall or Caldwell 3. Lake George 4. Lake Champlain 54. Montreal and its Environs .... 1. Lachine Rapids 2. Victoria Bridge 55. Montreal to Quebec. The St. Lawrence River 56. Quebec 1. Ste. Anne and Chateau Richer . 2. The Saguenay River MAPS. 1. General Map of New England : in pocket. 2. Map of the Environs of Boston : in pocket. 3. Map of Nahant. 4. Map of Lake Winnepesaukee. 5. Map of the White and Franconia Mountains. 6. Map of the Hudson River. 325 336 339 340 343 347 348 350 350 355 ?57 361 368 372 373 373 375 384 385 PLANS OF CITIES, &c. Boston, Hartford, Montreal, New Haven, New York, Newport, Portland, Providence, Quebec, Central Park, Mount Auburn Cemetery. ABBREVIATIONS. M. = mile ; hr. = hour ; min. = minute ; ft. = foot or feet ; r. = right ; 1. = left ; N. — north ; S. = south ; E. = east ; W. = west. ASTERISKS denote objects deserving of special attention. NEW ENGLAND. “ Nobis eternum reliquerunt monumentura, Novanglorum mcenia.” “Nova Anglia” : a Latin poem by Morrell, 1625. New England is the northeastern portion of the United States, and comprises the States of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island. It is bounded on the S. by the Atlantic Ocean and Long Island Sound, on the W. by the State of New York, on the N. by the Province of Quebec, and on the E. by the province of New Bruns- wick and the Atlantic Ocean. It lies between the latitudes 41° and 48° N. and the longitudes 67° and 74° W. from Greenwich, and has an area of 65,000 square M., with a population of 3,487,924 (census of 1870). The principal religious sect is the Congregational, which has 190,473 members; the Episcopal Church has 38,098; and the Methodists have 70,000. The Catholics and the Baptists (114,000) are also strong in numbers, while Unitarianism has here its chief power. A high standard of education prevails among the people, and is supported by an extensive school-system and several renowned colleges. The New-Englanders have always been distinguished for a marked individuality of thought, by reason of which the most advanced and radical schools of philosophy, politics, and religion have arisen or have been developed here. The nature of the climate and of the soil has rendered agriculture less profitable than at the West, and the strength of the section has been found in the establishment and maintenance of vast manufacturing indus- tries. The coast extends in a direct line for over 700 M., with many spacious harbors; and the maritime cities are celebrated for their skilful seamen and for their large fleets of merchant-ships. This district was granted by James I. to the Plymouth Company (in 1606) under the name of North Virginia; but Capt. John Smith, having surveyed and mapped the coast in 1614, gave it the name of New England. Maine is bounded on the S. by the Atlantic, on the W. by N. H., on the N. by Canada, and on the E. by New Brunswick. It is the most northeastern of the United States, and the largest of the States of New England. It has an area of 31,766 square M., with a population of 626,915, and a valuation of $ 223,254,860. It is divided into 16 counties, and has 13 small cities, X MAINE. the chief of which is Portland, while the capital is Augusta, at the head of ship-navigation on the Kennebec River. The coast of “ hundred-har- bored Maine’’ is remarkably picturesque, with deep fiords running up between bold peninsulas, and with archipelagos of beautiful islands resting in quiet and extensive bays. The direct line of the coast from Kittery Point to Quoddy Head is 278 M., but the deep curves of the bays and estuaries give an actual shore-line of nearly 2,500 M. Mt. Desert (60,000 acres) is the largest of the many islands which front the ocean, and Mon- hegan is the most distant from the mainland. The great rivers Penob- scot, Kennebec, and St. Croix empty into the sea on this coast, and furnish wide and convenient harbors. Nearly J of the area of Maine is still covered with primeval forests, and the lumber-trade is the chief industry of the State. The trees are felled and hauled to the water- courses during the winter, and in the spring they are united in vast rafts and floated down to the river cities. In the S. and E. of the great forest is a broken range of mountains, the loftiest of which is Mt. Katahdin (5,385 ft. high), -fa of Maine is covered with water, the principal lakes being Moosehead, Chesuncook, and the Rangeley, Madawaska, and Schoodic groups. The Maine coast was first visited by Gosnold in 1602, and in 1607 the short-lived Sagadahoc colony settled at the mouth of the Kennebec River. The French colonies at the St. Croix River and Mt. Desert were but ephemeral, and several other attempts proved equally unsuccessful, partly owing to the hostility between the claimants of the territory (the French and English), and the distrust of the Indians for both of them. The island of Monhegan was settled in 1622, and Saco was founded in 1623. When the Plymouth Company broke up, in 1635, Sir Ferdinando Gorges received by royal charter the province of Maine (then first so called). In 1642 his son founded the city of Gorgeana (York), but in 1651 Mass, absorbed Maine, being sustained by the exigencies of the times and by the Puritan Parliament of England. After some resistance on the part of the Maine proprietors, Mass, bought out their interest, and thenceforward ruled the northern province for nearly 170 years with a firm and beneficial sway. From 1675 until 3760 a disastrous succession of Indian wars ensued, in which every twentieth settler was killed or captured and many towns were destroyed. The bombardment of Port- land (1775) and the naval battle at Castine (1779) were the chief events during the Revolution, but the coast was badly harried during the War of 1812. In 1820 Maine was admitted into the Union as the twenty- third State. New Hampshire is bounded on the S. by Mass., on the W. by Vt., on the N. by the province of Quebec, and on the E. by Maine and the Atlantic. It has an NEW HAMPSHIRE — VERMONT. XI area of 9,280 square M., with a population of 318,300, and a valuation of $ 162,987,177. It is divided into 10 counties, with 234 towns and 5 cities, and the capital is Concord, on the Merrimac River. There is an ocean- front of 18 M., which is bordered by level plains stretching inland, while just off the coast are the remarkable Isles of Shoals, formerly famed for their fisheries and now a favorite summer-resort. Beyond the sea-shore plains the country assumes a more rugged and broken appearance, with numerous isolated summits and hill-ranges which culminate in the White Mts., covering over 40 square M. of a picturesque district which is called “ the Switzerland of America.” The lakes of N. H. cover 110,000 acres, and the most beautiful of their number is Winnepesaukee, which has 69 square M. of extent, and contains 300 islands. The soil of the State is not fertile, but it has much mineral wealth ; and the climate, though severe, is very healthful. There are extensive primeval forests in the N. (Coos County), in whose recesses wolves and bears still are found ; and the remote lakes and streams afford fine fishing. The Connecticut, Saco, and Merrimac Rivers have their sources in N. H. , and on the water-power afforded by the latter large manufacturing cities are located. There are 42 national banks, with a capital of $ 5,135,000 ; and 54 savings-banks, with deposits amounting to $ 25,303,235. The manufactures of cotton and woollen goods, iron and leather, are the chief mechanical industries, and centre at the cities of Manchester and Nashua. The press of the State consists of 8 daily papers, 36 weeklies, and 6 monthlies. The N. H. coast was first visited by the Europeans in 1614, and settle- ments were founded at Dover and Portsmouth about 1623. The district was for many years under the government of Mass., and was afterwards ceded to N. Y., while the incessant inroads of the Indians devastated the frontiers for nearly 80 years. The chief incidents of these wars were the destruction of Dover (1689), and the battle of Pequawket. In 1741 N. H. became a royal province, and in 1776 it led the secession from the British Empire, giving freely of its men and money to the cause of independence. Vermont is bounded on the S. by Mass. , on the W. by N. Y. and Lake Champlain, on the N. by Canada, and on the E. by N. H. It has an area of 9,056 M., with a population of 330,551, and a valuation of $ 142,612,356. It is divided into 14 counties, and has but 2 small cities, the great majority of the people being engaged in farming. The centre of the State is trav- ersed from N. to S. by the Green Mts., whose smooth and rounded sum- mits form a marked contrast with the sharp peaks of the White Mts. The chief of the Green Mts. are Mt. Mansfield (4,359 ft.), Camel’s Hump (4,188 ft.), Killington and Pico Peaks, and Mt. Ascutney. The E. slope is watered by several streams which flow into the Connecticut River, Xll MASSACHUSETTS. while the W. slope sinks into the broad and fertile plains which border Lake Champlain and are traversed by Otter Creek and the Winooski, Lamoille, and Missisqnoi Rivers. The Lakes Memphremagog, Willoughby, Dunmore, Bomaseen, and St. Catharine are pleasant summer-resorts, and the great Lake Champlain affords an avenue for an extensive international commerce, whose chief centre is the port of Burlington. The evergreen forests on the mountains alternate with broad pasture-plains, and the deciduous groves on the lowlands are interspersed with tillage-fields of rich loamy soil, so that Vt. has become the most agricultural of the Northern States, and exceeds all others (proportionally to her population) in the production of wool, live stock, maple sugar, butter and cheese, hay, hops, and potatoes. In 1871 there were made here 8,000 tons of butter, 2,400 tons of cheese, and 4,500 tons of inaple-sugar. Extensive quarries of fine statuary and variegated marble and serpentine have been opened in the S. counties, and vast quantities of slate have been exported from the same region. The first European who saw Vt. was Jacques Cartier, who, in 1535, looked upon its high ridges from Mount Royal (Montreal). Its coast was explored by Champlain and others in 1609, and prosperous French settle- ments were made (in Addison) later in the 17th century. In 1724 Mass, built Fort Dummer (near the present town of Brattleboro) ; but the num- bers and ferocity of the Indians prevented colonization until after the conquest of Canada (1760). The territory was then partly occupied under grants from N. H., until it was ceded to N. Y. ; and thereafter ensued a controversy in which the settlers successfully resisted the authorities of N. Y. until the outbreak of the Revolution, when they proclaimed Ver- mont ( Verts Monts , or Green Mts. ) an independent State. Congress twice refused to acknowledge the new State, although its soldiers (“ the Green Mountain Boys ”) captured Ticonderoga and Crown Point, and annihilated the flower of Burgoyne’s German auxiliaries at the battle of Bennington. In 1791, after paying New York $30,000 in liquidation of all claims, Vt. was admitted into the Union (the 14tli State), and since that time has prospered and steadily increased in wealth and population. Massachusetts is bounded on the S. by Conn, and R. I., on the W. by N. Y., on the N. by Vt. and N. H., and on the E. by the Atlantic. It has an area of 7,800 square M., with 1,457,351 inhabitants, and a valuation of $2,132,148,741. The soil is not fertile, but considerable crops are gained by careful cultivation ; and the best land is found in the valleys of the Connecticut and Housatonic Rivers. There is but little level land in the State, and in the W. counties the Taconic and Hoosac Ranges of mountains afford great diversity of scenery. The Connecticut River flows through a garden-like MASSACHUSETTS. xiii valley, with several prosperous towns ; and the Merrimac (in the N. E. ) affords a vast water-power to Lowell and Lawrence, and passes into the sea at Newburyport. The climate is severe in the hill-conn tries, and is very variable on the coast, — the mean temperature being between 44 ° and 51 As far back as 1855 the annual farm products amounted to over $ 21,000,000, and at that time the. State had 2,250,000 apple-trees. Profit- able beds of iron ore and glass sand have been developed, and the exporta- tion of marble (from Berkshire County) and granite (from Quincy and Cape Ann) has become a lucrative business. The State has been celebrated for the number and excellence of its ships, and for the skill and enterprise of its seamen. Granite, ice, and fish are among the chief articles of export ; the latter being brought in by the large fishing-fleets of Cape Cod and Gloucester. The manufacturing interests of the State are of immense extent and wide variety, and their products for the year 1870 were valued at $ 550,000,000. Boots and shoes, cotton goods, woollens, iron, and paper, are the chief manufactures (named in the order of their importance). There are 160 savings-banks, with deposits amounting to $163,535,943. In 1871 the State debt was $ 29,630,364, of which $12,000,000 was for railroad loans, and $ 16,500,000 represented the unpaid balance of the war loan. The prevailing religious sect is the Congregational, the Baptist, Meth- odist, and Unitarian churches being also strong, while the Roman Catholics are rapidly attaining great power and influence. The educational insti- tutions of the State are admirably arranged and have a high reputation, their efficiency being assured by the maintenance of four normal schools, five colleges, and Harvard University. The militia is kept in a state of high efficiency f and discipline, and is mostly composed of veterans of the War of 1861-5. The coast of Mass, was first visited by the Norwegian mariners Leif and Thorwald, about the year 1000. After several attempts at colonization, which were frustrated by the powerful native tribes, the Norsemen aban- doned the country (which, from its fruitfulness, they had named Vinland). In 1497 John and Sebastian Cabot cruised along the coast, and were fol- lowed by Cortereal, Verrazzani, and Gomez. In 1602 Gosnold explored the S. E. islands, and planted an ephemeral colony on Cuttyhunk, near New Bedford. Pring, Champlain, and Weymouth soon after passed along the coast, while Capt. John Smith, following them in 1614, made a map of the coast and islands. Dec. 21, 1620, the ship “ Mayflower ” arrived at Plymouth with 102 Pilgrims, who had been driven from England by religious persecution, and who founded here the first permanent colony in Mass. Salem was settled in 1628, and Boston in 1630, by Puritan exiles, and the Atlantic coast and the Connecticut valley were soon dotted with villages of bold and hardy immigrants. XIV CONNECTICUT. The Pequot War (1637) and King Philip’s War (1675-6) caused a fear- ful loss of life and property, and several of the valley towns were utterly destroyed before the colonial forces could crush the insurgent tribes. In 1689 the province revolted against the royal authorities, and the country- people took Boston and its fortifications and guard-frigate, and imprisoned the governor (Sir Edmund Andros). In 1692 Plymouth was united to Massachusetts, and thereafter, until the conquest of Canada in 1760, the province was foremost in the wars with the French colonies in the N. Many of her towns were destroyed by Indian raids, and the W. frontier was nearly depopulated ; but the general prosperity was unchecked, and when the British Parliament commenced its unjust oppressions, the prov- ince had 250,000 inhabitants, many of whom were trained veterans of the Canadian Wars. In face of the royal army which had been moved into Boston, the men of Massachusetts opened correspondences which brought about a colonial union for mutual defence, and enrolled themselves as minute-men, ready to march against the British troops at a minute’s notice. The battles of Concord and Lexington were followed by a general appeal to arms ; and the siege of Boston, the Battle of Bunker Hill, and the American occupation of the city came in rapid succession. After these events the scene of war was transferred to New York and the South, where the Massachusetts regiments won high honor, especially in the victorious campaign against Burgoyne’s invading army. In 1780 the State Constitution was framed, and in 1786 a serious revolt occurred in the W. counties, caused by the pressure of enormous taxes. This rising (which was headed by Daniel Shays) was put down after a few skirmishes. In the War of 1812 the State theoretically confined her exertions to the de- fence of her own coast, though thousands of her seamen entered the national navy. Extensive manufacturing interests now rose rapidly into view, and a network of railroads was stretched across the State. During the War for the Union (1861 - 5) Massachusetts put forth her utmost strength, and gave 158,380 men to the armies of the Republic, besides incurring a war-debt of over $ 50,000,000. Connecticut is bounded on the S. by Long Island Sound, on the W. by New York, on the N. by Mass., and on the E. by R. I. It has an area of 4,730 square M., with 537,454 inhabitants, and a valuation of $ 532,951,061. There are 8 counties, 160 towns, and 7 cities. The soil is usually rugged and com- paratively unproductive, although the river- valleys afford some rich lands, and considerable crops are raised by laborious cultivation. The tobacco- crop of 1870 amounted to 8,328,798 pounds, and in the same year were made 6,716,007 pounds of butter and 563,328 tons of hay. “The manu- factures of the State are more general, multifarious, and productive than CONNECTICUT. XV those of any other people of similar means,” — clocks and carriages, fire- arms, tin and brittania ware, sewing-machines, iron and rubber goods being the chief articles of production. There are 66 savings-banks, with deposits amounting to $ 55,297,705, and many wealthy and powerful insurance companies. New Haven has a lucrative West India trade, while New London has a considerable number of vessels engaged in sealing and whaling. The Conn. River is famous for its valuable fisheries, which have been revived by stocking the stream (1867-70) with 154,000,000 young shad. The chief religious sect is the Congregational, and the Episcopal Church lias more strength here than in any other State (proportionally to the population). There are three colleges, Yale (Cong.), Trinity (Epis. ), and Wesleyan (Meth.), with 4 schools of theology. The educational interests of the State are well and efficiently carried on, under the support of the great funds derived from the sale of the Western Reserve lands. The charitable and correctional institutions of the State are remarkable for their influence and efficiency. The ingenuity, enterprise, and individuality of the men of Conn, have given them an advanced place in the mercantile and political activities of the Republic; and “probably no country of similar extent has sent abroad so vast a horde of emigrants in proportion to its population.” The coast and rivers of Conn, were first explored by Adrian Block and other Dutch mariners (1614-33); the district was in the English Plymouth Patent of 1620, and was chartered in 1631. About that time the river Indians were subjugated by the Pequots, and Seguin, their chief, sent to New York, Plymouth, and Boston for help. In 1633 a small Dutch colony landed at Hartford ; and in the same year a Plymouth vessel passed up to Windsor, where a settlement was planted. These were merely trading-posts, but Wethersfield was occupied in 1634, and in 1636 three nomadic churches were led by their pastors through the wilderness from Boston to the Conn. River, where they settled at Hartford, Windsor, and Wethersfield. Saybrook was founded and fortified in 1635, and in 1637 the first legislature declared war against the Pequot Indians, who were defeated and speedily crushed by the colonial train-bands, aided by the friendly tribes. In April, 1638, New Haven was settled, and soon after the other coast-towns were founded. In 1639 a remarkable consti- tution (which acknowledged no higher human power than the people of Conn.) was adopted, and in 1662 a royal charter was obtained. After the union of the independent colonies of Conn. (Hartford) and New Haven, in 1665, the two towns were made semi-capitals of the province (and State), and so remained until 1873, when Hartford was made the sole capital. The State stood honorably among the foremost during the Revolution, although the towns along the coast were pillaged and destroyed by raids from the Hessian and Tory garrison at New York. XVI RHODE ISLAND. Rhode Island is bounded on the S. by the Atlantic, on the W. by Conn., and on the N. and E. by Mass. It is the smallest State in the Union, and has an area of 1,046 square M., with 217,353 inhabitants, and a valuation of $ 296,965,- 646. There are 5 counties, with 32 towns, and 2 cities. The soil is un- productive, and but little farming is done save on the fertile plains of the Island of Aquidneck. The State is nearly cut in two by Narragansett Bay, which runs inland for 30 M. (with a width of 3 - 12 M.), and contains several islands, the chief of which is Aquidneck (or Rhode Island) on whose S. end is the famous summer-resort, Newport. 11 M. S. E. of Point Judith is Block Island, which pertains to this State. The climate is mild and equable, from its vicinity to the sea and exposure to the S. ; and the greater part of the State is a region of low hills or sea-shore plains. The principal mechanical industries are at Providence, Pawtucket, Woon- socket, and Westerly ; and as far back as 1860 the State reported 1,200 manufacturing establishments, with an aggregate capital of $ 24,380,000, using annually $ 24,410,000 worth of raw material, and producing over $ 50,000,000 worth of goods. The 33 savings-banks of the State hold in deposit $36,289,703. The charitable and correctional institutions are mostly about Providence, where is also the seat of Brown University, a flourishing school under the care of the Baptist Church, which is the prevailing sect in the State. Rhode Island was probably colonized by the Norsemen in the 10th and lltli centuries, but was afterwards abandoned for centuries, until the coming of Verrazzani in 1524. He remained at Aquidneck (which was then thickly populated by Indians) for two weeks. In 1636 Roger Williams, having been banished from Mass., came down the Seekonk River with 5 companions, and founded a settlement which he named Providence, in acknowledgment of “ God’s merciful providence to him in his distress.” In 1638 Wm. Coddington and another party of exiles founded Newport ; in 1642 a third banished company settled at Warwick; and in 1643 and 1663 these colonies united under a royal charter. The powerful Narra- gansett Indians dwelt in Rhode Island, and when King Philip’s War broke out they ravaged all the outlying settlements and killed many of the colonists. The New England colonies, ignoring the existence of heret- ical Rhode Island, and rejecting its' advice, marched an army across to the Narragansett country, and, after a terrific assault, stormed the Indian stronghold and crushed the tribe. The little province gave freely of her men and money in the French wars, and sent some of the best troops to the American siege of Boston. In Dec., 1776, Newport was taken by the British, who held it for 3 years, but were prevented by the New England militia from passing farther into the country. In 1861 the men of Rhode Island were among the first to reach the imperilled national capital. INTRODUCTION, I. Language. The people of New England claim that they speak the English lan- guage more correctly than it is spoken elsewhere in the world. Be this as it may, it is certain that this one language is universally used through- out the six States, and the traveller is delivered from the trouble caused in Great Britain by its four languages and numerous dialects, or in France by its three languages and provincial patois. The European tongues are taught in the high-schools all over the country, but the instruction is purely theoretical, and the number who can talk French, German, or Ital- ian is very small. Tourists, who wish to travel among the remoter dis- tricts of New England, should be well acquainted with the language, which is “the English of Elizabeth,” with a few local idioms. II. Money and Travelling Expenses. Since the war for the Union (1861 - 65) gold and silver coin has disap- peared from circulation, and been replaced by U. S. Treasury notes and National Bank bills for values upwards of one dollar, and by fractional currency issued by the Treasury, of the values of 10, 15, 25, and 50 cts. Nickel and mixed coins of 1, 2, 3, and 5 cts. value, abound. This paper currency is at a discount for gold of from 10 to 15 per ct. The cur- rency of Canada is either coin or paper at a coin value. It is more expensive to travel in New England than in any part of Western Europe. The usual charge per day at the best hotels is $ 4 to $ 4. 50, with considerable reductions when a prolonged stay is made at one place. Tourists who travel slowly through the country and stop at the less pretentious hotels (which are usually comfortable, and always safe) may easily limit their expenses to $ 25 or $ 30 per week. Those who fre- quent hotels of the highest class, and indulge much in carriage-riding, will find $ 45 to $ 50 per week none too much. At most of the sea-beaches board can be secured at $ 10 or $15 per week ; while in the quieter and less fashionable villages about the mountains, substantial fare may be found in broad old farm-houses, for $6 to $10 per week. III. Railways and Steamboats. Railway travelling in America is mucli more comfortable, yet more ex- pensive and dangerous, than in the Old World. There is but one class of 2 INTRODUCTION. tickets, the average fares being about three cts. a mile. On each train is a smoking-car, easily accessible from the other cars, and fitted with tables for card-playing. It is prudent to decline playing with strangers, as gamblers sometimes practice their arts here, in spite of the watchfulness of the officers of the train. To nearly every through train on the grand routes is attached one or more Pullman cars, which are richly carpeted and curtained, and profusely furnished with sofas, easy-chairs, tables, mirrors, and fronted with broad plate glass windows. These cars being well balanced and running on twelve wheels, glide over the rails with great ease. By night they are ingeniously changed into sleeping-rooms, with comfortable beds. The extra fares on the palace cars are collected by men attached to them ; the price of a night’s lodging (in which time one can go from Boston to New York) is $ 2. The fares by steamboat are somewhat lower than by rail, and (in case of a night passage) include a sleeping-bertli in the lower saloon, but generally do not include meals. A state-room in the upper cabin costs extra, but insures better air and greater comfort and privacy. State-rooms (in the summer season) should be secured in advance at the company’s office in New York, Boston, or Portland. Great lines of stages still run among the mountains and in the remote rural districts. Persons travelling by this way, in pleasant weather, should try to get a seat on the outside. The Check System. — The traveller, having bought a ticket for his des- tination, shows his heavy baggage (trunks, &c.) to the baggage-master, who attaches a small numbered brass plate to each piece with a leather thong, and gives to the traveller a check for each piece of baggage, simi- lar in form and number to that appended to such piece. The railroad now becomes responsible (within certain limits of weight and value) for the baggage, which is to be given up only on the presentation of the du- plicate check which is in the traveller’s possession. Trunks may be thus despatched from Boston to Montreal, Boston to Chicago, &c., without trouble, and if their owner is delayed on the route, they are stored safely at their destined station until he calls. On presentation of the check at the baggage-room of the station to which the baggage has been sent, it is given up to the owner, or his hotel porter. The large hotels have coaches at the railroad stations, on the arrival of through trains, and their porters will take the duplicate checks, get the trunks and carry them to the hotel. IV. Excursions on Foot. It is remarkable that pedestrianism has never been popular in this country. The ease and perfect freedom of this mode of travelling, its highly beneficial physical effects, the leisure thus afforded in which to study the beautiful scenery in otherwise remote and inaccessible dis- tricts, all mark this as one of the most profitable and pleasant modes of INTRODUCTION. o summer recreation. To walk two hundred miles in a fortnight is an easy thing, and it is infinitely more refreshing for a man of sedentary habits than the same*length of time spent in lying on the sands of some beach, or idling in a farm-house among the hills. “ For a tour of two or three weeks, a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted stockings, slippers, and the articles of the toilet, carried in a pouch slung over the shoulder, will generally be found a sufficient equipment, to which a light overcoat and a stout umbrella may be added. Strong and well-tried boots are essential to comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided ; a light pouch, or game-bag, is far less irksome, and its position may be shifted at pleasure.” — Baedeker. One or two books might be added to this list, and a reserve of clothing may be sent on in a light valise, at a trifling cost, to the town which is the pedestrian’s objective point. It would be well for inexperienced walkers to begin at eight to ten miles a day, and gradually increase to sixteen to eighteen miles, or six hours’ walking. During the heats of summer the travelling should be done at early morning and late afternoon, thus spending the hottest part of the day in coolness and rest. The best time for a pedestrian tour is between late September and late October, when the sky is clear and the air bracing, — the season of the reaping of harvests, the ripening of fruits, and the splendor of the reddening forests. Among the most interesting districts in New England for the pedes- trian, the following may be mentioned: The picturesque valleys, lakes, and mountains of Berkshire County, Mass. ; the valley of the Connecticut from Springfield to Greenfield ; the ocean-surrounded arm of sand, Cape Cod, with its quaint and salty old villages (Thoreau’s “ Cape Cod” is the best guide there) ; the lake region of New Hampshire ; the White and Franconia Mountains (frequently explored by walking parties from the colleges during the summer vacation) ; and in Maine, the romantic Island of Mount Desert. The east bank of the Hudson River, from New York to Albany, affords a walk of rare interest, and the west shore of Lake George presents a short walk through peerless scenery. But the most in- teresting ramble is from Quebec through the C6te de Montmorenci to Cape Tormente, there crossing the St. Lawrence, and passing down the south shore through the quaint old Norman Catholic villages of Mont- magny, L’lslet, and Kamouraska. This route can be traversed only by an experienced traveller who is well posted in French. There are but very few hotels in this ancient and primitive district. V. Hotels. The hotels of the United States will certainly bear comparison with those of any other country. The European plan has been adopted in many of them (as Parker’s, at Boston; the St. Julian, at Portland), while in many others it is used in combination with the American plan, — $ 4 to 4 INTRODUCTION. $4.50 per day at the more fashionable houses, $ 2.50 to $ 4 per day at the comfortable hotels of the smaller cities, and $1.50 to $2.50 per day in the smaller houses in the rural districts, are the charges which cover all ordinary requirements. No costly array of sundries and extras is at- tached to the bill, and the practice of feeing the servants has never obtained to any extent, nor has it been found necessary. VI. Round-Trip Excursions. During the summer and early fall the railroads prepare series of ex- cursion tickets at greatly reduced rates. Information and lists of these routes may be obtained from the central offices in Boston. The office of the Hoosac Tunnel Route (to Saratoga, &c.) is at 69 Washington St., Boston ; the Connecticut and Passumpsic River Railroad is at 87 Wash- ington St. ; the Boston, Concord, and Montreal is at 5 State St. ; the Grand Trunk Railroad is at 134 Washington St.; where is also the pas- senger office of the Eastern Railroad (to Portland, the Eastern Provinces, and the White Mountains), conducted by Geo. F. Field, Esq. The Ver- mont Central Railroad (office 65 Washington St.) publishes a twenty-four page book of round excursions (with their prices) to every part of New Hampshire, Vermont, the Province of Quebec, Eastern New York, and also to Niagara Falls, Chicago, St. Paul, and Duluth. VII. Climate and Dress. The climate of New England is subject to the most sudden and severe changes, from heat to cold or from cold to heat. The summers are usually much hotter and the winters much colder than in England, and during the latter season great falls of snow are frequent. The summer sun is often fatal in its power, and long exposure to its vertical rays should be avoided. At the same time warm clothing should be kept at hand, and woollen, or at least heavy cotton, underclothing should be worn, in order to guard against the sudden changes which are so frequent. VIII. Miscellaneous Notes. Passports are of no-use in the United States in time of peace. The examination of luggage at the Canadian frontier and at the ocean- ports is usually very lenient, and conducted in a courteous manner. Traffic is made easy from the fact that fixed charges exist in the shops, and the tiresome processes of chaffing and beating down are unnecessarjr. There are no professional guides in New England, but the people are prompt and willing to answer all civilly put questions. Gentlemen from abroad will remember that there is here, especially in the country, no class of self-recognized peasantry, and that a haughty question or order will often provoke a reply couched in all “ the native rudeness of the Saxon tongue.” NEW ENGLAND HANDBOOK. 1. Boston. Hotels. Those in the heart of the city are most conveniently situated. Tre- mont House (PI. 18), on Tremont St., corner of Beacon, and the * Revere House (PI. 9), on Bowdoin Sq., are large, commodious hotels, near the State House, and carried on by the same company. The * American House (PI. 10), on Hanover St., is a large and elegant brownstone structure, with 300 rooms. Board at $ 4 to $ 4.50 per day. *The Parker House (PI. 19), a noble marble building on School St., opposite King’s Chapel and the City Hall, is kept on the European plan, and is a famous resort of the young men of New England. Young’s Hotel (PI. 20), Court Ave., is on the European plan, and is much resorted to by city merchants. The following hotels are less expensive : Adams House (PI. 28), 371 Washington St., $3; Marlboro’ Hotel (PL 20), 227 and 229 Washington Street; Sherman House ; Temple House, Bowdoin Sq. ; Milliken’s (PI. 22), Washington St. Near the great Northern railroad stations are the Arlington House (European plan) and National House. Opposite the Albany Railroad Station is the exten- sive United States Hotel (PI. 33). In Brattle St. are the City Hotel and the Quincy House. At the South End. — *St. James Hotel, on Franklin Sq., a vast and elegant structure, 400 guests, $ 4 a day, $ 15 to $ 25 a week. * Commonwealth Hotel, a new marble building on Washington St., stretching from Worcester to Spring- field St., 200 to 250 guests, $4 a day. Also on Washington St., the Erskine, Lancaster, Everett, Warwick, and St. Denis Houses ; and on Tremont St., the Clarendon and the St. Cloud, — smaller and less expensive houses. The French system of Hotels Garnis in its various forms is very popular in Boston. The principal hotels of this class (with family suites) are the Evans House, 175 Tremont, and the Hotel Pelham, corner Tremont and Boylston Streets, both fronting on the Common. Opposite this, the superb Hotel Boylston, one of the noblest buildings in the city. The Hotels Berkeley and Kempton, and the Hotel Hamilton (on Commonwealth Ave.), at the West End, and the Hotels Flor- ence, Bradford, &c., at the South End, are of this class. The Norfolk House (in Roxbury) and the Maverick House (in East Boston) are large, quiet, and inexpen- sive suburban hotels. Restaurants. — * Parker House (with ladies’ dining-room attached), famous for its excellent dinners. (Charles Dickens called Parker’s the best hotel in America.) * Young’s, near Old State House, with an elegant dining-hall, much patronized for society and festal dinners. * Charles Copeland’s, 4 Tremont Row, — a dainty saloon, frescoed and fountained, much visited by ladies. The Copeland restaurants at 208 Washington St., and 128 Tremont St., opposite Park St., are frequented by ladies. Higgins’s, 126 Court St., is famous for fine oysters. Wilson’s Lane, Spring Lane, Brattle St., and the vicinity, abound in good eating- houses. Lager Beer may be had at many German saloons throughout the city. Ice-creams and confections at Copeland’s, Fera’s (343 Washington St.), Southmayd’s, Webers, &c. Billiard-Rooms. — The finest hall of the kind in New England is on Wash- ington St., near the Boylston Market. The Revere billiard-rooms, near Bow- doin Sq., are large and brilliant. Artemus Ward’s quaint saying is well known, — that Harvard College is located in the billiard-room of the Parker House. Other comfortable, though smaller rooms are scattered through the city. Baths. — Turkish, sulpliur-fume, and electro-chemical, rear of the Marlboro’ 6 Route 1. BOSTON. Hotel, 231 Washington St. Turkish baths, 1427 Washington St., 17 Beacon St. Bath-rooms in the hotels. Heading-Rooms (open evenings also). In the Public Library are the prin- cipal European periodicals, and a large number of American papers, &c. — The Young Men’s Christian Union (300 Washington St.) and the Young Men’s Chris- tian Association (corner Tremont and Eliot Sts.) have large and well-supplied reading-rooms, free to all. An introduction from a member is necessary for entrance to the Athenaeum reading-rooms. Most of the hotels devote a room to numerous files of the newspapers of the day. Theatres. — The Boston Theatre (PI. 27), on Washington St., near West, is the largest in New England. The principal 'tragedians of (or visiting) America have played here, and the building is often engaged for Italian and German Operas. The elegant Globe Theatre, “ the Parlor of Comedy,” was destroyed in the great Memorial Bay fire (May 30, 1873), but it is to be rebuilt immediately. The Museum Theatre (PI. 15), on Tremont, near School St., is conducted by a stock company, and is called the “ Orthodox” or “ Ministers’ Theatre,” since no spec- tacular or questionable plays are allowed there. William Warren, the great comedian, is a member of the Museum company, with which he has played for 26 years, winning a wide and enviable reputation. On Howard St., near Court, is the Howard Athenaeum (PI. 11), devoted to varieties, and entertainments by negro minstrels. Classic music in Music Hall by the Handel and Haydn Society, the Thomas Orchestra, and the Apollo Club. Also semi-weekly organ concerts. Consulates. — Austrian, 80 State St. ; Belgian, 6 Central Whf. ; British, 127 State St. ; French, Italian, 17 Broad ; German, 80 State ; Russian, 49 India Whf. ; Swedish, 6 Central Whf. Horse- cars traverse the city in all directions. Tremont St., between Temple Place,, and the Tremont House, Lowdoin Sq., and Scollay Sq. (corner Court and Tremont Sts.), are the principal centres of horse-car traffic. Cars leave the Tremont House every few minutes for the Northern Depots, Chelsea Ferry, Mt. Pleasant (in Dorchester), Warren St. (Roxbury), Grove Hall, Dorchester, Norfolk House (Roxbury), Egleston Square, Forest Hills, Lenox St., Jamaica Plain, Brook- line, Beacon St., and E. Boston. Also from Temple Place to Dudley St. (Rox- bury), and Grove Hall, via Shawmut Ave. From Scollay Sq. cars run to So. Boston, City Point, Bay View, Charlestown Neck, Bunker Hill, Malden, Winter Hill, Medford, Union Square (Somerville), Chelsea, Revere Beach (in summer ), Lynn, Swampscott. From foot of Summer St., cars to Dorchester and Milton. From Bowdoin Sq., cars on 20 routes to the western suburbs, Cambridgeport, Riverside Press, Brighton, Newton Corner, Harvard Sq. (University), Mount Auburn, Watertown, Arlington, Somerville (via Craigie’s Bridge). Omnibuses. — From Salem St., Charlestown, via Warren Bridge and Wash- ington St., to Concord St. Carriages. — 50 cts. each passenger for a course within the city proper ; from south of Dover St. to the North End, $ 1. A tariff of fares is hung in each-carriage. Steamers leave Boston as follows (in the season of navigation) : — For Augusta and Bath, Me., semi-weekly, from Union Whf. ; for Baltimore, from India Whf. ; for Bangor, semi-weekly, from Foster’s Whf. ; for Calais, Me., Sat- urdays, from Commercial Whf. ; for Dover, from Battery Whf. ; for Eastport and St. John, N. B., tri-weekly, from Commercial Whf. ; for Gloucester, daily, from 234 Broad St. ; for Halifax, N. S., Pictou, and Prince Edward’s Island, every Saturday, from T Whf. ; for Hull, Hingham, and Nantasket, semi-daily in summer, from Liverpool Whf. and 234 Broad St. ; for Long Island, Quincy Point, and North Weymouth, daily in summer, from Rowe’s Whf. ; for Nahant, daily in summer, from India Whf. ; for Philadelphia, semi-weekly, from Long Whf. ; for Portland, daily, from India Whf. ; for Provincetown, from Central Whf. ; for Savannah, every ten days, from T Whf. ; for Liverpool (Cunard Line), every Tuesday, from Cunard Whf., East Boston (cabin, §80 and §100 in gold ; steerage, § 30 in currency). Sailing packet-lines connect Boston with nearly every port of New England. C bur dies. — There are in the city 18 Baptist churches, 22 Congregationalist, 27 Unitarian, 15 Episcopal, 22 Methodist, 7 Presbyterian, 17 Roman Catholic, 6 Universalist, and 14 other religious societies. There is a German Lutheran church, corner of Shawmut Ave. and Waltham St. ; a German Reformed church, 8 Shaw- BOSTON. Route 1 . 7 1 mut St. ; a German Methodist church, 541 Shawmut Ave., and a Synagogue of German Jews, on Pleasant St. Newspapers. — 8 daily papers are published in the city ; also 3 semi-week- „ lies ; 72 weeklies ; 8 bi-montlilies ; 70 monthlies (mostly magazines) ; and 14 quarterlies. Boston (Shawmut, or “Sweet Waters ”), the Puritan City, was first settled by a recluse Anglican clergyman, Wiliam Blackstone, about the year 1623. The adventurous colonists who landed at Salem, in 1630, soon moved a large party to Charlestown ; but, finding no water there, they crossed to the peninsula of Shawmut, under the leadership of Isaac Johnson, landing on the present site of Boston, September 7 (O. S.), 1630. The name Boston was given to the place by order of the Court, in honor of that English city from which came Johnson and John Cotton, two of the early church fathers of the new settlement.* In 1634 Blackstone, declaring “I came from England because I did not like the lord bishops, but I can’t join with you, because I would not be under the lords brethren,” sold the peninsula to the colonists for £30, and went into the wilderness. Governor Winthrop had previously constituted Boston the capital of the colony, and a strong tide of immigration set in. In 1631 the barque “ Blessing of the Bay ” was launched ; in 1632 the first church was built ; and in 1636-38 Harvard College was founded. In 1663 Josselyn writes : “ The buildings are handsome, joining one to the other as in London, with many large streets, most of them paved with pebble-stones. In the high street towards the Com- mon there are faire houses, some of stone,” &c., — a great change since 1630, when one declared it to be “ a hideous wilderness, possessed by barbarous Indians, very cold, sickly, rocky, barren, unfit for culture, and like to keep the people miserable.” In the Pequot War of 1637, and King Philip’s War (1675 - 76), Boston bore a large share, and hundreds of prisoners were guarded there. “ Philadelphia was a forest, and New York was an insignificant village, long after its rival (Bos- ton) had become a great commercial town.” The town gave men and money freely in defence of the frontiers against the Franco-Indian attacks, and fleet after fleet left its harbor to do battle on the eastern coasts. In 1704 the first American newspaper (the “ Boston News-Let- ter ”) appeared here ; in 1710 a massive wall of brick and stone foundation, with cannon on its parapets, and with two strong gates, was built across the isthmus, or neck, on the south, near the present Dover St. This, with the walls on on the water-front, 2,200 feet long, 15 feet high, and 20 feet thick, and the forts on Castle Island and Fort Hill, effectually guarded against attacks by the Dutch or French. In 1711, 5,000 of Marlborough’s veterans, and a large Provincial force, encamped at East Boston, and thence sailed on Admiral Walker’s disastrous ex- pedition against Quebec. In 1739 sailed the fleet destined to attack Cuba, and of 500 men sent from the Massachusetts colony but 50 ever returned. Meantime France had erected a powerful fortress at Louisbourg, far in the north, and 4,100 soldier?, in 13 vessels, mounting 204 guns, sailed from Boston in 1745. They were joined at Canseau by 10 royal frigates ; the “Massachusetts,” 24, captured the French frigate “ Vigilant,” 64 ; and after firing 9,600 cannon-shot into Louis- bourg it surrendered, with 2,000 men and 76 heavy guns. Restored to France by London treaty-makers, the work had to be done over again, and in 1758 Amherst and Boscawen gathered a royal and provincial army and fleet at Boston, attacked Louisbourg with 7,000 men and 57 sail, lost 400 men, and took the fortress, with 5,600 soldiers, 39 heavy guns, 6 line-of-battle ships, and several frigates. In 1745 the Duke d’Anville, with 16 ships of the line, 95 frigates, and a large army, was sent to retake Louisbourg and demolish Boston. A frightful storm shattered this armada, but he landed a strong force at Halifax, which annihilated a Massachu- setts army in a battle at Grand Pre, and filled Boston with mourners. The feel- ing of discontent which had been growing since the forfeiture of the colonial charters in 16S8, and which had been increased by arbitrary acts of royal gov- ernors and of the London cabinet, arose rapidly in 1762-65, on the passage of the “Writs of Assistance” and the Stamp Act. In 1768 two royal regi- * Boston, in Lincolnshire, Eng., was founded in 650 by St. Botolph (boat-help), a pious Saxon and the patron-saint of English sailors. It is on the Witham River, 20 miles south- east of Lincoln, and has 15,000 inhabitants. The Church of St. Botolph is its pride. It was founded in 1307, is 245 by 98 feet, and can accommodate 5,000 people. It has noble stained windows, and a famous tower 280 feet high (modelled after one at Antwerp), which is visible for leagues at sea. 8 Pcoute 1. BOSTON. ments from Halifax moved into the town, and riots and outrages "began to be frequent. Reinforcements were sent again and again to the .garrison, and Lieu- tenant-General Gage, the commander of the British forces, was appointed (1774) Governor of Massachusetts. Then ensued the gathering of the patriot armies at Cambridge, the blockade of the city, and consequent distress among its people, and the bombardments from the American lines. When Lord Howe was forced to evacuate the city, March 17, 1776, 3,000 loyalists chose to go with him, and on the same day the Americans took possession of battered and hungry and depopu- lated Boston. Since the close of the Revolution the city has been engaged in great internal improvements, the construction of a network of railroads to all parts of New England, and the preservation and extension of its commerce. Great manufac- turing interests centred here, and the city boundaries were again and again en- larged. In June, 1872, the Universal Peace Jubilee was held here (as projected and managed by P. S. Gilmore) in an immense wooden building on the Back Bay. This edifice (called the Coliseum) was 550 feet loiig, 350 feet wide, and 115 feet high, thus having an area greater than that of the Milan and Cologne Cathe- drals united, or of St. Paul’s (London) and St. Sophia (Constantinople) united. The Roman Coliseum held 87,000 spectators, but the Boston Coliseum could accommodate only 40,000 to 50,000. Great galleries ran around the hall, parlors , &c. , were plentiful, and a forest of flags and national symbols was draped within and floated outside. Strong forces of police, firemen, and artillerist's were constantly on duty at the Coliseum. Some of the music was emphasized by the booming of cannon near the building and the ringing of the city bells, while a large company of uniformed firemen accompanied the oft-repeated Anvil Chorus with ringing blows on anvils. Strauss, the Austrian composer of waltzes, and violinist, Mes- dames Peschka-Leutner, Rudersdorff, and Goddard were there ; also the bands of the English Grenadier Guards, the French Garde RApublicaine, and the Prussian Kaiser Franz Grenadier Regiment. These were aided by a grand orchestra of 2,000 musicians, and a chorus of 165 well-drilled societies, comprising 20,000 voices. The Jubilee lasted for 3 weeks (without accident or mischance), and was varied by a great Presidential Ball. Early in the next year the Coliseum was taken down. The rapid extension of commerce, and the concentration of great manufacturing agencies in the city, produced a corresponding flow of wealth and growth of stately architecture. The streets between the Common and the Harbor, between Summer and State Sts., were lined with lofty and ornate commercial houses, unsurpassed elsewhere in the world, and crowded with valuable goods. There were tiers of streets lined with massive granite structures, which seemed as un- inflammable as ravines in the solid rock. About 7 o’clock on the warm, moonlit evening of November 9, 1872, a fire broke out in a building on the corner of Kings- ton and Summer Sts. It speedily crept up from the lower story and turned the Mansard roof into a sea of flame. The fire started thence in three direc- tions, and, fanned by the gale which it had formed, it swept up and down Summer St., and through the lateral avenues into Franklin St. and Winthrop Sq. The firemen, although heroically active, were driven before it, until early Sunday morning, when several buildings were blown up. About this time the fire was checked in its southward progress, and the whole Fire Depart- ment (reinforced from many towns within 100 miles) faced the destroyer on the north. From 2 to 3 o’clock Sunday morning the firemen fought the flames on Washington St., and after incredible efforts kept it on the lower side of the street, and saved the Old South Church, which was scorched and strewn with sparks. During the day the force at hand was directed on two points, the new U. S. Post Office on Devonshire Street, and the Merchant’s Exchange, and in the narrow streets between Broad and Kilby Sts. Repulsed from the first two points, and after a time checked in its advance toward Kilby St., the fire sank rapidly under the cataracts of water which were being poured upon it from the steam-engines massed along State St. By mid-afternoon the danger was over, and many of the out-of-town engines were sent home. In less than 24 hours the richest quarter of Boston, covering about 50 acres, had been swept away, and nothing remained of those massive piles of granite and brick save a few ragged and tottering fragments of wall. The loss was not far from $70,000,000. To keep out the swarms of thieves, and to prevent the citizens and the scores of thousands of visitors from imperilling themselves, three regiments of State troops BOSTON. Route 1. 9 were called out, who formed a line of guards around the burnt district, which was thus picketed and held under martial law for many days. Less than thirty lives were lost during the fire. The rapid and resistless spread of the conflagration (which would have been impossible in a European city) has been attributed to the narrow streets, the thin partition walls, and the universal use of lofty Man- sard roofs built of light timber and planking, and too high from the street to be reached by the water from the engines. “ The best treasure of Boston cannot be burnt up. Her grand capital of culture and character, science and skill, humanity and religion, is beyond the reach of flame. Sweep away every store and house, every school and church, and let the ]>eople, with their history and habits, re- main, and they still have one of the richest and strongest cities on earth.” Boston, the capital of the State of Massachusetts, and the metropolis of New England, is one of the most ancient and famous of the American cities. Its colonial and Revolutionary epochs were filled with incidents of rare heroism and surpassing interest, while the later and more peace- ful years have been rich in the triumphs of commerce and industry. Al- though it has lost its former commercial supremacy, it still ranks as the second American city in this regard, and is carrying through vast railroad projects in order to keep its position. It is built on a deep inlet at the head of Massachusetts Bay, and favorably situated either for foreign traf- fic or for its vast trade with the manufacturing towns of New England. So the city has grown rapidly, its population of 30,049 in the year 1800, and 70,713 in 1830, having increased by 1870 to 250,526, with a valuation of $ 584,000,000. The cramped limits of the peninsula being too narrow, large tracts of land have been added by filling up the tide-water flats and coves, and by the annexation and settlement of neighboring towns. In spite of its frequent fires and rapid changes, Boston has more of a Euro- pean appearance than any other American city, and it has also a calm, cold, and reserved aristocracy of old families. The intellectual and musi- cal culture of its citizens is renowned, and the most radical and advanced schools of politics, philosophy, and religion find their home here. As for the numerous charitable houses of the city, they have generally won the highest praise, even the censorious Dickens saying : “ I sincerely believe that the public institutions and charities of this capital of Massachusetts are as nearly perfect as the most considerate wisdom, humanity, and benevolence can make them.” The district lying between State, Court, and Cambridge Sts., and the waters of Charles River and the Harbor, was, in the olden time, the most important part of the city, although it is now given to the purposes of trade and the dwellings of the lower classes. Commercial St. , forming 3 sides of a square, bounds a great part of it, and opens on a continuous line of wharves. The great Northern depots of the Lowell Railroad (for Vermont and Montreal), the Eastern Rail- road, the Fitchburg, and the Boston and Maine Railroad, are situated near each other, on and near Causeway St. Copp’s Hill, in the northeast part, was the site of a British fort, which took an active part in the Bunker Hill battle, in 1775, and burned 10 Route 1. BOSTON. Charlestown with a shower of hot shot. The ancient burying-ground first used in 1660 occupies the brow of the hill, and has been sacredly preserved. Here are buried three fathers of the Puritan Church, Drs. Increase, Cotton, and Samuel Mather. The cemetery is open to the public. Near Copp’s Hill, on Salem St., is Christ Church (Episcopal), the oldest church edifice in the city (consecrated in 1723). A fine chime of bells is in the tower, and its music is almost coeval with the church. Near the West Boston Bridge is the large granite building of the Massa- chusetts General Hospital (PI. 4), a noble charitable institution with rich endowments. Near it is the Medical College of Harvard University. '"Faneuil Hall (PI. 16), “The Cradle of American Liberty,” was built and given to the city in 1742, by Peter Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant. It was burnt in 1761, and rebuilt in time to serve the British 14th Regiment for barracks (1768). During the later popular excitements many stirring orations were made here, until, during the siege of 1775 - 76, the royal officers turned it into a theatre. The Hall, 76 feet square and 28 feet high, has no seats, and will accommodate a great audience. In time of great military or political emergencies, the men of Boston flock to Faneuil Hall by thousands. On the walls are some good por- traits : Peter Faneuil, Sargent; George Washington, Stuart; Commo- dore Preble, General Warren, John Q. Adams, * Webster replying to Hayne, Healy ; Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, John A. Andrew, * Samuel Adams, Copley (his masterpiece); and others. Fronting Fan- euil Hall is the (586 ft.) long granite building of the Quincy Market, where all kinds of meat, fish, fruit, and vegetables are exposed in tempting profusion. Not far from the Market is the *TJ. S. Custom House (PI. 24), perhaps the most massive and imposing building in Bos- ton. It was built 1837 - 49, at a cost of nearly $ 1,100,000, and its walls, roof, and dome are of granite. The building is in the form of a Greek cross, and is surrounded by 32 immense columns, 5 ft. thick and 32 ft. high. The great granite warehouses (State St. Block, &c.) in the vicinity are worthy of attention ; also the ever-busy wharves near State St. The old Post Office (Pl. 21), or Merchants’ Exchange, with 6 long granite columns in front, is famous as the point where the flames advancing on State Street were checked, in the Great Fire of 1872, by a platoon of husky, dingy, and quivering steam fire-engines drawn up before it. The Wall Street of Boston, the haunt of its bankers and brokers, is the part of State St. between the old Post Office and the Old State House. This ancient edifice was built in 1748, and long used by the legislature of the colony. On March 5, 1770, a collision occurred between the towns- people and the British main-guard stationed here, and a volley was fired, killing four and wounding many of the crowd. This affair was called the BOSTON. Route 1. 11 “Boston Massacre/’ and the soldiers were tried before the Colonial Court on the charge of murder, and exonerated. Opposite the Old State House is a magnificent marble building in Venetian Gothic architecture, with a 149 ft. front on Court St. and 55 ft. on Washington St., which cost about $750,000, and is used for bank, railroad, and insurance offices. Just above, on Court Sep, is the heavy front of the Suffolk County Court House, back of which, and fronting on School St., is the * City Hall, built in 1862-65. $160,000 were appropriated to build it, and it cost really more than $500,000. It is of white Concord granite, in the Italian Renaissance architecture, with 138 ft. front and 95 ft. height, the Louvre dome which is the headquarters of the fire-alarm being 109 ft. high. The Council Chambers are very fine, as is the whole interior arrangement. In front of the City Hall is a bronze statue of Benjamin Franklin , 8 ft. high, on a base of verde antique and granite, with historic bronze me- dallions on the sides. The artist was R. S. Greenough, and the means of its erection ($ 20,000) were raised by the people. Benjamin Franklin was born in Boston in 1706. He was apprenticed to his brother, a printer, but ran away to Philadelphia in 1723. There he rose steadily until in 1764 he was sent to England as colonial agent, when, in 1766, he spoke before the House of Commons, and the Stamp Act was repealed. Elected to Congress, he was on the committee on the Declaration of Independence, and signed that document. From 1776 to 1785 he was Minister to France, with which he procured the treaty of alliance of 1778 which saved the Republic. His later works were of diplomacy and philanthropy, and he founded the Abolition So- ciety. Fie invented the harmonica, and the Franklin stove ; and in 1752 found the identity of lightning and the electric fluid by means of a kite. His scientific labors won him high honor in Europe. Opposite the City Hall is the Parker House (PI. 19), and to the right is King’s Chapel. On Washington St., near the foot of School St., is the Old South Church, the shrine of Boston. It was built in 1729, on the site of a cedar- wood church which had been built in 1669. The exciting meetings of the people in the late colonial days were held here, and thence marched the disguised men to the attack on the tea ships (Dec. 13th, 1773.) In 1775 the pews were removed, and a riding-school for the British cavalry was here formed, the interior being well packed with gravel, and a liquor saloon being placed in one of the galleries. The church was restored in 1782, and contained (until 1873) two galleries, many square “pues on ye lower flore,” and a pulpit overarched by a sounding-board. Externally it is plain, with a high spire, and a clock. “ More eyes are upturned to its clock daily than to any other timekeeper in New England.” Franklin was baptized here (in the older church) ; Whitefield has preached here ; for one hundred and sixty years the election sermons (before the legisla- ture, coimcil, and governor) have been delivered here ; it was saved, by deathless heroism, from the Great Fire ; and yet before 1875 this ancient shrine will probably be torn down and replaced by a line of shops with 12 Route 1. BOSTON. a Mansard roof. It was leased to the Government for a Post Office in December, 1872. Near the Old South, on Milk and Devonshire Sts., is the structure to be occupied by the U. S. Post Office and Sub-Treasury (PI. 44). It is built of granite, in the prevalent French style of architecture, with an immense roof, and groups of statuary on the front. Its great size, and the fineness of its materials, render it an imposing building. The mas- sive granite front on Milk St. was so much cracked and injured in the Great Fire (by intense heat from across the street) that much of it had to be rebuilt. The building fronts 200 ft. on Devonshire St., and will cost from $ 2,000,000 to $ 3,000,000. From this building (which was held desperately and successfully against the fire) the burnt district lies on the south, east, and west. From the Old South Church, Washington St., the main retail thoroughfare of the city, runs southwest, and is always filled with a busy throng. On the corner of School St. is the Old Corner Bookstore, in a building dating from 1712. Farther along are the two principal theatres, and some large bookstores. The corner of Washington and Winter Sts. is the liveliest point in the city, and Winter St. is full of ladies’ shops. From Boylston Market Boylston St. runs out past the Common. At the corner of Tremont St., and facing the Common, is the Masonic Temple (PI. 45), built 1864-67. The first Masonic Lodge in America met in Boston in 1733, since when the order has steadily grown, save during the days of the Anti-Masonic party. The Temple is a lofty edifice of granite, built in such forms of mediaeval architecture as “to suggest the most effective poetical and historical associations connected with the Ma- sonic institution.” The interior contains Corinthian, Egyptian, and Gothic Halls, besides banqueting-rooms, &c. Opposite the Temple is the large and elegant Hotel Boylston (suites of rooms for permanent dwellers), in the Italian-Gothic style. The lofty brownstone building of the Hotel Pelham is on the opposite corner, next door to which is the * Boston Pub- lic Library, in a so-called fire-proof building of brick and sandstone. This Library contains 193,000 volumes, and 100,000 pamphlets, and is the largest in America, except the Library of Congress. The Lower Hall is devoted to popular books and a reading-room, while the noble Bates Hall, above, is reserved for more substantial works. All these rooms are open to the public, and any one can take books and read there, though only resi- dents of the city can take books from the building. The walls of the rooms are covered with pictures, which form part of the collection of engravings formerly owned by Cardinal Tosti, of Borne. This collection, embracing from 6,000 to 7,000 pictures (many being fine old works of Marc Antonio and Albert Diirer), was presented to the Library by Mr. T. G. Appleton, and fills many volumes. BOSTON. Route 1. 13 The U. S. Court House, corner Tremont St. and Temple PI., was built and long used as a Masonic Temple. It has a churchly look, and the main walls are built of triangular blocks of granite. Next to the Court House is St. Paul’s Episcopal Church, of gray granite, with 6 columns of Potomac sandstone upholding a classic pediment. Near this, at the corner of Park St. (formerly called Brimstone Corner), is Park Street Church, an old Puritan meeting-house, where the able and bril- liant Murray is now settled. Adjoining the Church is the Old Granary Burying Ground , where are buried Governor Bellingham (died 1672), and 8 other colonial and state governors, 2 signers of the Declaration of Independence, 6 famous divines, Peter Faneuil, who gave the Hall to Boston, Paul Revere, the Revolutionary hero, Chief Justice Samuel Sew- all, J ohn Hancock (see Quincy), and Samuel Adams. Samuel Adams, born at Boston in 1722, was one of the leaders of the people in the agitations of 1764 - 75, and was proscribed by the royal government. In 1769 he advocated the independence of America, and during the Revolution directed the measures of Congress in the Northern war. “ Though poor, Samuel Adams possessed a lofty and incorruptible spirit, was pure in morals, and grave and austere in manner, though warm in his feelings. As a speaker, he was pure, concise, logical, and impressive ; and the energy of his diction was not inferior to the strength of his mind.” The State is to place his statue in the Capitol at Wash- ington. A granite pyramid is over the remains of Franklin’s parents. From the sidewalk before the cemetery rises a row of tall elms, which were transplanted from England, and placed here in 1762. Opposite the Church is the extensive publishing house of James R. Os- good & Co., and beyond it, down Hamilton PL, is seen the plain wall of Music Hall (PI. 25). Entrance from Central PL, 15 Winter St., or at 116 Tremont St. This is one of the most elegant and well-arranged halls in America, and is of rare acoustic properties. Within this hall is the largest organ in the New World, containing 5474 pipes, and 84 com- plete registers, and encased in an elegant frame, with a colossal statue of Beethoven in the foreground. The organ was built by Herr Walcker, of Ludwigsburg, 1857 - 63, at a cost of $ 60,000 dollars, and is often played by competent professionals. Farther along Tremont St., on the right, is the elegant white granite building of the Horticultural Hall, with a many- columned front, — Doric in the first story, Ionic in the second, and Corin- thian in the third. The rich cornice is surmounted by a colossal Ceres, a copy from the ancient statue in the Vatican ; while on piers, at the cor- ners of the second story, are statues of Flora and Pomona. Fairs, floral shows, and lectures are held in the spacious halls above. Alongside the Hall is the Studio Building, the home of many local artists. Tremont Temple comes next, with a plain Palladian front, and a great hall, which is used on Sunday by a Baptist church, and during the week for lectures, readings, etc. On the same side of the street is King’s Chapel, built in 1754, by the Episcopalians, on the site of the first church of that sect in Boston (built 16S9). King’s Chapel was deserted by its 14 Route 1. BOSTON. people when Gage and the Loyalists left the town, and was occupied by the Old South Society. At a later day, influenced by their rector, Rev. James Freeman, the few remaining churchmen revised their liturgy, strik- ing out all Trinitarianism, and formed themselves into the first Unitarian church in Boston. Next to this Church is the burying-ground used by the Puritans from 1630 onward. Isaac Johnson, “ The Father of Bos- ton,” was buried here ere the first year of the settlement was ended. About him his people were buried for many years. In one tomb is Gov- ernor J ohn Winthrop, and his two sons, who were governors of Connecticut. John Winthrop, a pious lawyer of Suffolk, led a colony to Salem in 1630. He moved his people to Boston and built up that place, where he ruled as Governor of Massachusetts, 1630-34, 1637 -40, 1642-44, 1646-49. He was an amiable gen- tleman, a firm ruler, and a believer in moderate aristocratic principles, stating in his letter to the people of Connecticut, that “the best part of a community is always the least, and of that part the wiser are still less.” Other noted Puritans are buried here, and in the church are monuments to the families of Apthorpe, Shirley, and Vassall. Beyond the cemetery is a granite building, partly occupied by the Massachusetts Historical Society, which has a library of 16,000 books, and 800 volumes of MSS. Many ancient portraits (Increase Mather, Sebastian Cabot, &c.) adorn the walls, while relics of Washington and the Puritan governors, and of King Philip, the chair of Winslow, the swords of Church and of Governor Carver, are carefully preserved here. The New England Historic-Genealogical Society (18 Somerset St.) has a fine library, and a small collection of curiosities. At 40 Winter St. are the rooms of the American and Foreign Chris- tian Union, the Sunday School Union, the Peace Society, and the Congre- gational Association. Churchmen of the various sects will find their respective headquarters as follows : Baptist Mission Society, 12 Bedford St. ; Congregational Club, corner Somerset and Beacon Sts. ; Publishing Society, 13 Cornhill ; Episcopal Church Association, corner West and Tremont ; Methodist Educational and Historical Societies, 38 Bromfield ; New Church Union, 2 Hamilton Place (library and reading-room) ; Universalist Publishing House, 37 Cornhill ; American Unitarian Asso- ciation, 42 Chauncy St. ; Christian Unity, 375 Harrison Ave. ; Parker Fraternity, 554 Washington St. The General Theological Library (22 West St.) and the Mercantile Library are much used, and the reading- rooms of the Young Men’s Christian Association (corner Tremont and Eliot) and the Young Men’s Christian Union (300 Washington St.) are pleasant, and freely open. The British, Irish, Scotch, Germans, and Italians have benevolent societies. In Boston there are 27 lodges, 8 chapters, and 6 commanderies of Masons, 18 lodges and 5 encampments of Odd Fellows, 22 divisions of Sons of Temperance, 13 Temples of Honor, 7 lodges of Good Templars, 9 posts of the Grand Army of the BOSTON. Route 1. 15 Republic, 15 lodges of the Knights of Pythias, and 4 lodges of the Haru- gari (Germans). On Tremont, near School St., is the Boston Museum (entrance fee, 30 cts.) where, in a lofty hall, a great number of rare things are shown, embracing curiosities from all parts of the world, casts, wax-fig- ures, scores of portraits of eminent Americans (by West, Copley, Stuart, etc.), and Sully’s great picture of Washington crossing the Delaware. Boston Common. When the peninsula of Shawmut (now Boston) was bought from Blackstone for £ 30, in the year 1634, this tract was reserved by the colonists for a training-ground (parade) and pasture. Every attempt since made to occupy portions of it has been repulsed, except in the early days, when the ground between Park, Beacon, and Tremont Sts. was taken. Special care was taken, in 1822, when the city was formed, to withhold from the municipal gov- ernment the power of alienating any part of the Common. Between 1656 and 1660 several persons were executed here on the charge of witchcraft, and for one hundred and fifty years after executions took place on the Common. During the summer of 1676 many scores of Indians caught red-handed were put to death here, among whom was the insurgent chief Matoonus. Thirty were executed in one day, and their heads were fastened on stakes and left in public places. About this time (1675) the traveller Josselyn speaks of it as “ a small but pleasant Com- mon, where the Gallants, a little before sunset, walk, with their Marmalet- Madams, till the bell at 9 o’clock rings them home. In 1728 occurred a fatal duel, under the Old Elm, whereupon a law was passed, that persons killed in duels should be denied Christian burial, and should be buried transfixed with a stake. If the duel was not fatal, both parties should stand on the gallows one hour with a rope about their necks, and then be imprisoned for one year. So the so-called code of honor passed from the social system of Massachusetts. In 1749 George Whitefield preached to 20,000 persons in one body on the Common. During the American siege of Boston a British fort was built on the hill near the Elm Tree, which drew some of Washington’s heavy shot. Races, parades, and military executions were meanwhile held here. The garrison of the town in 1812 encamped here, and so late as 1830 it was a cow-pasture enclosed by a two- railed fence. In 1836 the present iron-fence (1^ M. long) was built, and cattle were excluded. In the days of the Rebellion the assembling troops paraded here, and in the Great Fire of 1872 vast mounds of saved goods were piled along the malls and on the lawns. Boston Common contains about 48 acres, and is ricli in lawns and noble trees. No carriages are allowed to enter, and the walks are filled with people on pleasant summer evenings and Sundays. Under the stately elms of the Beacon and Tremont St. Malls are favorite prome- nades. Near Park St. is the Brewer fountain, made in Paris, and em- bellished with bronze statues of Neptune and Amphitrite, Acis and Gal- atea. Copies of this fountain have been made for the cities of Lyons, Bordeaux, and Alexandria (Egypt). The Frog Pond has a large foun- tain, supplied from Cochituate Lake, and near it is the Old Elm, — a great and ancient tree which is peculiarly revered by the Bostonians, and has been bolted and bandaged with iron and canvas, and fenced in, and so preserves its hale and verdant strength. On Flagstaff Hill, near the Old Elm, a soldiers’ monument is to be built, to be 90 ft. high, with historical reliefs, &c. ; at the four corners heroic statues of Peace, History, the Army, and the Navy. Above will be allegorical figures, — the North, South, East, 1 6 Route 1. BOSTON. and West, — and above all a colossal America, resting on a hemisphere, guarded by four eagles, with the flag in her left hand, and wreaths and a sheathed sword in her right. In the south part, near the old cemetery, is a deer-park. The west part of the Common is smooth and bare, and is reserved for a parade-ground and a ball-ground for the boys. The Public Gardens lie west of the Common, and contain 22 acres. In 1794, 6 ropewalks were built here, on tide-water flats, and most of the improvements have been made during the past 15 years. In its centre is a beautiful artificial serpentine pond of 4 acres, crossed by a fine bridge. Near Beacon St. is a bronze statue of Everett , by Story, mod- elled in Borne and cast in Munich. The monument to the discovery of anaesthetics (1868) is a rich and beautiful composition. * Venus rising from the Sea is' a lovely work, from above which, when the waters play, a fine spray falls about the figure, which is sometimes called “the Maid of the Mist.” But the finest work of the kind in New England is the colossal equestrian * Statue of Washington , by Ball, which fronts on Commonwealth Ave. The statue is 22 ft. high, on a pedestal 16 ft. high. The bronze work was done at Chicopee, in this State. Commonwealth Ave. — which is to be 1 J miles long and is 240 ft. wide, with a park in the middle — runs W. from the Public Gardens, and is lined with fine mansions. A statue of Alexander Hamilton is in the park. Nearly all the land north of Tremont and west of Arlington St. has been reclaimed from the water, and is now the finest part of the city. The new streets are alphabetically named, yet they avoid the weak sound of the upper New York and Washington city streets, having sonorous old English titles, — Arlington, Berkeley, Clarendon, Dartmouth, Exeter, Fair- field, Gloucester, &c. At the corner of Marlborough and Berkeley Streets is the * rich and elegant building (with English glass, a German organ, and an exquisite little cloister) of the First Church in Boston (Unita- rian). This society dates from 1630. Nearby, on the corner of Berke- ley and Newbury Sts., is the miniature cathedral of the Central Congre- gational Society. It is of Boxbury stone, in cruciform shape, has a stone spire 240 ft. high, and is rich in lofty, pointed windows, pinnacles, flying buttresses, &c. It cost $ 325,000. In this vicinity is the Emanuel Church (Episcopal) on Newbury St., and the fine brownstone Arlington St. Church (Unitarian) with its melodious chime of bells. Alongside the Cen- tral Church is the fine building of the Society of Natural History, where courses of lectures are given. The extensive collections embrace birds, shells, reptiles, fishes, insects, fossils, with sections devoted to ethnology, geology, palaeontology, mineralogy, and microscopy. The finest collection of mounted skeletons in America is kept here. The classic building of the Institute of Technology is close to the Museum. This is a richly- endowed popular school of high order, whose object is to teach the appli- BOSTON. Route 1. 17 cation of science to the useful arts, for which purpose it is provided with fine cabinets and apparatus. The * State House (PI. 13) is on the summit of Beacon Hill, fronting the Common. Its corner-stone was drawn to the place July 4, 1795, by fifteen white horses, amid great ceremonies. The most prominent ob- jects on the exterior are the fine Corinthian colonnade and the high round dome. When the Legislature (or General Court) is in session, national flags are displayed from the building. The * Doric Hall, at the entrance, is a neat, marble-paved room, supported by columns, and surrounded by high niches, fronted with plate-glass, in which are gathered the banners of the Massachusetts regiments borne in the War for the Union. On the right are busts of Charles Sumner and Samuel Adams, and on the left a bust of Abraham Lincoln and a statue of Gov. John A. Andrew, by Ball. In a marble-paved and banner-hung rotunda, opening on the Doric Hall, is Chan trey’s * Statue of Washington, in front of which are copies of the monuments of the old Washington family, at Brington, in Northampton- shire. The House of Representatives (up stairs to the left from the Doric Hall) is a plain and somewhat crowded hall, with a codfish hanging from the roof, as emblematic of a prolific source of the wealth of the State, The Senate Chamber is on the other side, and is adorned by some old por- traits and trophies. The extensive State Library is in the west wing. From the dome of the State House (open when the Legislature is not in session) is obtained a fine * view. Boston Harbor, with its islands, and peninsulas, and the distant blue ocean, fill the east ; in the north are Charlestown, its Navy Yard and Monument, with Lynn, Chelsea, Malden, and Medford ; to the west, Charles River and Back Bay, Cambridge, Brigh- ton, Brookline, and Newton ; and in the south, Roxbury and Dorchester, with the blue hills of Milton far away. On the terraces in front of the building are bronze statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Mann, the great educationist. The house opposite (comer Park and Beacon Sts.) was for 40 years the home of George Ticknor, author of the “ History of Spanish Literature,” in 3 volumes (translated into German and Span- ish), who bequeathed 4,000-5,000 Spanish books to the Public Library. The Union Club (600 members), a patriotic organization formed in 1863, occupies the next house below (on Park St.). On Beacon St., near the State House, is the * Boston Athenseum, a neat, brownstone building, in the Palladian style. On the lower floor is the library of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, and a large reading-room adorned with statuary. In the vestibule are casts of Houdon’s Washington and of Sophocles, also a marble statue — The First Inspiration of Columbus — by Montaverde, and a bronze group — the Boy and the Eagle — by Green - ough. Among the statuary in the reading-room is Orpheus in Hades, Craioford; Hebe and Ganymede, Crawford ; Children, Greenough; and 1 8 Route 1. BOSTON. fine casts of Thorwaldsen’s Venus, Angelo’s Night and Morning, the Laocoon, Apollo Belvedere, Minerva, Menander, Barberini Faun, &c. On the second floor is a noble library of nearly 100,000 volumes, including the library of Washington, and 400-500 volumes of engravings. The building and its contents being owned by the Athenaeum, an introduction from one of its members will give strangers the benefits of the library. The stairways are lined with large paintings, and on the third floor is the Picture Gallery (fee, 25 cts.). 300-350 pictures are on exhibition here, mostly copies from the old masters. The original works (numbers often changed) are, * Sortie from Gibraltar, Trum- bull (his masterpiece) ; Arch of Octavius, Bierstadt; Belshazzar’s Feast, Allston (“The American Titian”); Mount Washington, Gay ; * Isaac of York, Allston ; Indian Captive, Weir; Angels appearing to Shepherds, Cole ; Priam and dead Hector, Trumbull ; portraits of * Washington and his Wife, Stuart ; Benjamin West, Allston ; Daniel Webster. Chief Justice Marshall, Harding ; William Tudor, Sully ; the Rajah Rammoliun Roy, R. Peale ; William Wirt, Inman; * Count of Wurtemberg mourning over his Dead Son, Ary Schaeffer; Storm at Sea, Hue; Garden of Love, Watteau; two fruit-pieces, Peter Boel ; Landscape, Ruysdael ; Dante and Beatrice, Schaeffer ; The Flaying of Marsyas, and the Golden Age, Luca Giordano. There are a great number of copies (in oil) of famous European pictures, and in one room 50 of the chromo-lithographs of the Arundel Society (London), being copies of famous religious paintings in the noontide of art. In these rooms are casts of the antique works, — the Quoit- Players, Piping Faun, Si- lenus and Bacchus, Boy with a thorn in his foot, the Venus eke Milo, and the Dying Gladiator, with busts of J ulius Csesar, Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Clau- dius, Nero, Galba, Otho, Vitellius, Vespasian, Titus, Domitian, Nerva, Trajan. Ha- drian, the Antonines, &c. A beautiful marble copy of the Venus de Medici is in one room, also (in marble) Greek Girl, by Wolf; * Maid of Carthage, Greenough ; Will o’ the Wisp, Harriet Hosmer ; * Venus Victrix, Greenough. One room is occupied by a large collection of Egyptian antiquities, embracing hundreds of figures of the gods Osiris, Amun, Horus, Isis, &c., in bronze, marble, wood, porcelain, and terra-cotta ; also a large number of scarabsei, amulets, vases, and curious jewels. There are also seven human mummies, with a great number of funereal trappings, and mummies of monkeys, lambs, ibises, cats, hawks, mice, crocodiles, tortoises, snakes, &c. There are 1,100 pieces in this collection (cata- logue, at the door, 25 cts.). In the next room are several hundred lamps, amphorae, cups, statuettes, heads, weapons, &c., from Idalium, on the Island of Cyprus, of great interest to the student of early Phoenician and Greek history. The Appleton collection is on the same floor, containing many Graeco-Italian fictile painted vases from Etruscan and Campanian tombs. Some elaborate old cabinets contain fine Venetian glass- ware, and a large number of rich majolica plates are exhibited. A large piece of Gobelins tapestry (France crowned by Victory and attended by Minerva) occupies one end of the room ; at the other end is a group of plaster casts from famous Italian bas-reliefs, near which is a Madonna and Child, by Luca della Robbia, and the Virgin adoring the infant Jesus, by Andrea della Robbia. Two large pictures by Boucher , two by Allston, a large collection of ancient coins (a gold Alexander), and the rich oaken panels, carved and gilded, from the Chateau Montmorency, are worthy of note. The positions of the pictures and curiosities are so often changed that a more careful list would be of no permanent use. Near the Athenaeum is Pemberton Square, the site of an old Indian ne- cropolis, where 300 skulls were dug up in Cotton Mather’s time. Gover- nor Endicott and Sir Henry Vane lived near this spot, and in later days it was an aristocratic centre. Now its houses are occupied by offices, and in the Mission Rooms (number 35) is kept a small museum of curiosities from “ lands of heathenesse.” Louisburg Square is a stately and silent place BOSTON. Route 1. 19 on the farther slope of Beacon Hill, embellished with statues of Aristides and Columbus. Near the State House is a vast and massive granite structure, 200 feet square and 66 feet high, on Derne St., which is called the Beacon Hill Reservoir, and holds, at this high level, about 2,700,000 gallons of water. The Perkins Institution for the Blind was founded in 1831, by Dr. S. G. Howe. It was favored by liberal popular contributions, and now oc- cupies large buildings on Mt. Washington, S. Boston. Charles Dickens visited and highly praised this institution, as also the charitable and cor- rective establishments in a secluded position near Independence Square, S. Boston (Insane Hospital and House of Correction). “Such are the institutions at South Boston. In all of them the unfortunate or degenerate citizens of the State are carefully instructed in their duties both to God and man ; are surrounded by all reasonable means of comfort or happiness that their condition will admit of ; and are ruled by the strong Heart, and not by the strong (though immeasurably weaker) Hand.” — Dickens. The extensive Carney Hospital (managed by Sisters of Charity) is near by on the hill, and above it is a reservoir and small park near the site of the old fort. On the bright, moonlit night of March 3, 1776, General Thomas and 2,000 Ameri- cans advanced quietly to this point (Dorchester Heights), and, when morning dawned, two strong forts were completed within point-blank range of Boston. Lord Percy and 2,400 royal troops were ordered to attack them, and Washington himself, with 4,000 men, awaited the onset. But a storm, “ propitious to the real interests of the British army,” prevented Percy from crossing the harbor. A few days later the city was heavily bombarded, and a new fort having been built still nearer, the royal forces were forced to evacuate Boston, March 18, sailing away in 150 transports, and carrying with them 3,000 New-Englanders who re- mained loyal to King George. From this little park a fine view is obtained of Boston and its harbor, and of Dorchester and the southern suburbs. The South End. The district south of Boylston and Essex Sts. is mainly occupied by dwelling-houses, and Washington St., with its retail stores and hotels, runs through its centre. The greater part of this district has been re- claimed from the water. Near the line of Dover St. a wall garnished with cannon formerly crossed the Neck and defended the town. Union Park and Worcester and Chester Squares are embellished with trees and fountains and surrounded with fine residences. Columbus Ave.,on the north, is a broad thoroughfare of aristocratic pretensions and forming an admirable drive-way. On Tremont St. is the imposing white granite edifice of Odd Fellows’ Hall (built 1871-73), and beyond it some fine churches, the best of which is the quaint and rambling Methodist Church. On Harrison Ave., near Concord St., is the City Hospital (PI. 10.) with a fine building (surmounted by a dome) in the centre, joined to the spacious wings by curving colonnades. Near the Hospital is the Roman Catholic Home for Orphans, and the Jesuit Church of the Immaculate Conception (with a fine interior, and famed for its music), connected with which is Boston College. 20 Route 2. ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. The Roman Catholic * Cathedral of the Holy Cross is on the corner of Washington and Malden Sts. This stately structure was commenced in 1867, and is yet far from completion. The mediaeval Gothic architec- ture has been closely adhered to in its construction, though in its phase of severest simplicity. Its external length (including the Chapel of the Holy Cross) is 365 ft. ; the nave is 320 ft. long and 120 ft. high. The Cathedral is 188 ft. wide at the transepts, and in the nave and aisles its width is 90 ft. The external length is greater than that of the Cathedrals at Vienna, Ratisbon, Munich, Orvieto, Messina, Monreale, Pisa, Venice, Freibourg, Treves, or St. Denis. It is higher (in the nave) than the Cathedrals at Vienna, Munich, Paris, Spires, Strasburg, Freibourg, Rheims, Chartres, Antwerp, or St. Ouen at Rouen. The main spire is to reach a height of 320 ft. , and to be provided with a fine chime of bells. St. Patrick’s Ca- thedral, at New York, and the Montreal Cathedral (just commenced) are the only rivals in America of the Cathedral of the Holy Cross. 2. Environs of Boston. “ It is not only in the Harvard precincts that the oldness of New England is to be remarked. Although her people are everywhere in the vanguard of all pro- gress, their country has a look of gahle-ends and steeple-hats, while their laws seem fresh from the hands of Alfred. In all England there is no city which has suburbs so gray and venerable as the elm-shaded towns around Boston, — Dorches- ter, Chelsea, Nahant, and Salem ; the people speak the English of Elizabeth, and joke about us — ‘he speaks good English for an Englishman.’ ” — Sir Charles Dilke. Boston Harbor. The Route to Nahant. Soon after leaving India Wharf, with East Boston on the left, Governor’s Island is passed on the r. This island was granted to Governor Winthrop in 1632, and was long called Gover- nor’s Garden, and here, according to Josselyn, in 1638, were the only apple and pear trees in New England. A powerful fortress of the United States, called Fort Winthrop, now occupies the island. Soon aftar pass- ing the Fort the steamer enters a narrow strait, between Point Shirley on the 1. and Deer Island on the r. The point was named in honor of William Shirley, Governor of Massachusetts 1741 to 1756, sometime commander of the British armies in America, and Governor of the Ba- hama Islands. It now forms the S. end of the town of Winthrop, and is occupied by Taft’s Hotel, widely renowned for its excellent fish and game dinners. Opposite Point Shirley is Deer Island (4J M. from Boston), 1 |— 1 — i . 0. HR., Station . C.2. 4 5 j l 1 tm T %((/} Trinity Church D.2. j| Ji \ ^tv'; 1 i. SI. Mary 's * D. 2. f */ \ fe^irj \ rock 13- Ocean Hause D.3. ZJ1 14. Atlantic " D.2. li | c§/ 1 Zjll * ' ) 1 r > A/midnerk " D.2. 1 v?i T ~ M 1 ' 16. Vuitetl States • . D.2. J^ ;/ ' 1J. TSalhinj Beach Y 2 1} ROC “ S W- SpmlmyRrtk. D.6. 20. Fort Adams . B. 3 6 D E F BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 3. 41 fidiously beheaded. The chief Tispaquin and his men also surrendered to Church under solemn pledges of pardon and amnesty, but the murder of this patriotic leader was reserved for the people of Plymouth. In 1629-31 Dean Berkeley gave a high literary tone to the colony, and organized a philosophic society and scientific discussions. The harbor of Newport was fortified in 1733. The royal census of 1730 reported 4,640 inhabitants in the town. In 1769-70 Newport stood second only to Boston in the extent of its commerce, being far ahead of New York. Its population in 1774 was 12,000, and in 1870 it was 12,518. In Dec., 1776, the town was captured by a British expedition from New York, and was held until Nov., 1779. Lord Percy commanded here until he was summoned to England to assume the Dukedom of Northumberland. The Hessian Waldeck regiment (1,500 men) formed part of the garrison, and Admiral Howe’s fleet wintered here, 1777 -78, and returned here after its battle with D’Estaing’s fleet off Point Judith. Later in the year D’Estaing made a daring demonstration, which caused the British to burn six frigates before the town. Sullivan and Green advanced down the island in Aug., 1778, but were forced to retire, after an indecisive action. In Nov., 1779, the Anglo-Hessian army evacuated the place, having destroyed the wharves, fortifications, &c. In 1779 D’Estaing worsted Admiral Arbuthnot in a petty action off Gardiner’s Island, and then returned to Newport. In July, 1780, a large fleet, commanded by the Chevalier de Ternay, “Knight of St. John of Jerusalem, Governor of the Islands of France and Bourbon,” &c., appeared in the harbor, bringing the Count de Rochambeau and 6,000 French soldiers (the regiments Bour- bon nais, Agenois, Royal Auvergne, de Saintonge, Royal Deux-Ponts, Touraine, Soissonais, &c.). Among his officers were Aubert Dubayet, who afterwards was gen. commanding Mayence and in La Vendee, and in 1796 was Minister of War ; Count d’Autichamp, afterwards an emigre who served in all Conde’s cam- paigns ; Viscount Beauharnais, afterwards President of the French Assembly and Minister of War, who was guillotined in 1794. His son Eugene became Viceroy of Italy, and his widow, Josephine, became Empress of France ; Berthier, af- terwards Marshal of France and Prince of Neufchatel and Wagram, created by Louis XVIII. a Peer of France, and assassinated at Bamberg in 1815 ; Viscount de Bethisy, afterwards lieut.-gen. in the army of Conde ; Christian, Count of Forbach, and William, his successor, fought in the Royal Deux Ponts regi- ment ; Count Axel Fersen, later Grand Marshal of Sweden ; Viscount de Fleury, later Marshal of France ; the Duke de Lauzun, who commanded the Army of the Rhine and of La Rochelle, defeated the royalist La Vendee, and was guillotined in 1794 ; Viscount de Noailles ; Marquis de Chastellux ; Viscount Laval, and his son, afterwards the Duke de Laval ; Viscount de Mirabeau, colonel of the regi- ment La Touraine, brother of the great Mirabeau ; Count du Muy ; Chevalier de Mauduit-Plessis ; Marquis de Viomenil ; Viscount de Fleury ; Count de Dumas ; Chevalier Dupertail ; Duke de Damas ; Viscount Desandrouins ; Arthur Count de Dillon, who defeated the Prussians at Argonne and Verdun, and was guillotined in 1794; Marquis de Dubouchet ; Baron Turreau ; Baron Viomenil ; Victor de Broglie ; Count de Custine, a veteran of the Great Frederick’s Seven Year’s War, afterwards governor of Toulon, commander of the Army of the North, and of the Lower Rhine, and guillotined in 1793. In 1781 the Chevalier de Tilly broke up Arnold’s raiding fleet in the Chesapeake, and brought the “Romulus,” 44, and six other prizes into Newport. Through- out the war, Newport was rudely handled and gradually demolished, until Brissot de Warville, visiting the place in 1788, said that it resembled Liege after the great siege. “ The reign of solitude is only interrupted by groups of idle men standing with folded arms at the corners of the streets ; houses falling to ruin ; miserable shops which present nothing but a few coarse stuffs, or baskets of apples, and other things of little value ; grass growing in the public square in front of the court of justice ; rags stuffed in the windows, or hung upon hideous women and lean, unquiet children.” At the close of the Revolution, the French government made strenuous efforts to have Rhode Island ceded to the domain of France. President Adams made a naval station here, fortified with six batteries. Dr. Samuel Hopkins, the founder of the Hopkinsian school of theology (“System of Theology”), and hero of Mrs. Stowe’s novel, “The Minister’s Wooing,” preached at Newport, 1770 - 1803. Dr. Stiles, afterwards President of Yale College, preached here for many years. The population, which in 1782 was reduced to 5,530, rose slowly until the war of 1812 stopped its growth, and since then the progress of 42 j Route 3 . BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Newport has been slow and uneven. But this unprogressive and tranquil spirit constitutes one of the charms of Newport, and makes of this quiet little marine city the Ostend, the Nice of America. William Ellery Channing was born at Newport in 1780 (died 1842). “ The in- fluences of the climate and scenery of the island where his boyhood was passed, had no slight influence upon the social and moral attributes of his mind.” He. won the highest honors at Harvard University, and afterwards was pastor of a" Unitarian Church in Boston for 37 years. He was an abolitionist, an anti- annexationist, and an advocate of peace, and his principles were sustained with fearless independence, plain-spoken fidelity, and a solemn and impressive manner. As the leader of the liberal party in the Unitarian controversy, his power was derived as much from the symmetrical beauty of his life as from the remarkable strength of his writings. “ He has the love of wisdom, and the wis- dom of love.” — Coleuidge, of Channing. Newport, “the Queen of American watering-places,” and a semi-capi- tal of the State of Rhode Island, is on the S. W. shore of the island from which the State is named, and fronts, across its harbor, on Narra- gansett Bay. Its older portion, lying near the wharves, has many narrow streets, bordered with the houses of the year-round residents, many of which are mansions of the old time. New Newport almost surrounds the old town, and stretches away to the S. with a great number of handsome villas and cottages. The bathing and boating at Newport are fine, the drives over the “Isle of Peace ” are varied and pleasant, but the chief charm of the place is its balmy and equable climate, due, according to most opinions, to a divergence in this direction of the waters of the Gulf Stream. Dean Berkeley likened the atmosphere of Newport to that of Italy, while another writer speaks of the damp sea-air and equable climate as resembling those of England. Fogs are of frequent occurrence, but of short duration. There are many summer visitors from the South and the West Indies, while the array of literary talent which gathers here yearly is quite attractive. Several of the ambassadors from Europe, with the nobles connected with the embassies, spend their summers here. The feature of private cottages is largely developed here, and hotel life is quite subordinate to it. Wealthy New York and Boston merchants move into their palatial villas early in the summer, and have their horses and car- riages sent on, so that by Aug. 1 the broad, firm avenues, and the hard and level beaches are filled with cheerful life. The central point in Old Newport is Washington Square, with its mall and fountain. The State House fronts on this Square, — a plain but solid old building erected in 1742, which served as a hospital from 1776 to 1781. From its steps the Declaration of Independence was read, July 20, 1776, and in its Senate Chamber is a fine portrait of George Washington, by Stuart. The City Hall, the Perry Hotel, and the mansion taken by Com. Perry after his victory at Lake Erie, all front on this Square. Gen. Washington passed through this Square on his way to Rochambeau’s headquarters in his first visit to Newport. . In the evening the town was illuminated, and Washington, Rochambeau, and the French nobles BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 3. 43 paraded through the streets. Trinity Church (on Church St.) was built in the early part of the last century, and was often preached in by Dean Berkeley (1729 to 1731). He presented an organ (still in use) to this church, and left a dearer token, one of his children, in the old church- yard. On Farewell St. is an ancient cemetery, where are buried many of the earliest colonists and their governors. The Jewish cemetery on Touro St. is a beautiful garden-spot kept in perfect order. Near it is the Synagogue, the first in the Union (built in 1762), and not now used, though kept in order by permanent endowments. The * Redwood Library is south of the cemetery, in a handsome Doric building, dating from 1750. An elegant though small library is kept here, and some good paintings, together with some fine pieces of statuary. The King of Eng- land gave 84 volumes to this library, and Dean Berkeley gave also a large number ; but when the evacuating British army carried even the church- bells with them, they spared not the Redwood Library. Touro Park is a favorite resort, and was the gift of Judah Touro, born at Newport in 1775, the son of Isaac Touro, the pastor of the J ewish Synagogue. From 1802 to 1854 he lived in New Orleans, where he amassed a large fortune which he left to various charities, mostly those of the Christian Church, though he himself was a Jew. “ He gave $10,000 towards the Bunker Hill Monument.” On this Park, surrounded by an iron fence, stands the * Round Tower, otherwise called the Old Stone Mill, an ivy-clad, circular stone tower supported on round arches. More battles of the antiqua- rians have been fought over this ancient tower than could well be num- bered, the radical theories of its origin being, on the one side, that it was built by the Norsemen in the 11th century, and on the other that a colonial governor (over perhaps 500 people), built it for a windmill in the 17th century. Verrazzani spent 15 days in the harbor and exploring the land (1524), but makes no mention of this tower ; while, on the other hand, it is certain that the early colonists never built in such architecture or materials as are here seen. The only thing in favor of the mill theory is the fact that Gov. Benedict Arnold (died in 1678) bequeathes it in his will as “my stone-built windmill.” The opening scenes of Cooper’s “ Spy ” are laid in this vicinity ; and Longfellow’s poem, “ The Skeleton in Armor,” has told its story. But “ its history has already, in Young America, passed into the region of myth.” Near the round tower stands the statue of Commodore M. C. Perry, who opened Japan to the world (1854). The Vernon House (corner Mary and Clarke Sts.) was Rochambeau’s headquarters in 1780. Also on Clarke St. is the Central Baptist Church, built in 1733, and next to it is the armory of the Newport Artillery Com- pany, an elite corps, formed in 1741. The first Methodist steeple in the world is on the church on Marlboro St. The Penrose House, on Church 44 Route 3. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. St., a famous old colonial mansion, where Gen. Washington was once a guest, is now a tenement house, and the Channing Mansion (built 1720) is near Thames St. The First Baptist Church, on Spring St., dates from 1638. In the office of the Mercury , a weekly paper started in 1758, is Ben. Franklin’s printing-press, imported in 1720. The News is a bright daily newspaper. 12 M. N. E. of Newport is the Stone Bridge which unites Rhode Island with the mainland at Tiverton. About 7 M. out is the Glen, a romantic spot, tree-shaded and quiet, where an old mill stands near a small pond. This is a favorite drive for the Newport visitors, forming an easy afternoon’s ride. A small hotel is situated 1-2 M. from the Glen, and a church in the vicinity was frequently preached in by Dr. Channing, “the Apostle of Unitarianism. ” 6-7 M. from Newport, on a road running to the W. of the Stone Bridge highway, is Lawton’s Valley, a beautiful rural resort, rich in verdure and in trees which are kept green by a bright stream flowing seaward. The Pond and Old Mill are the principal objects in the scenery. Over the valley is Butt’s Hill, where Sir Robert Pigott attacked the Amer- icans under Sullivan and Green on their retreat from the siege. Pigott impulsively attacked the halting army, and was beaten back by them until nightfall, when the Americans continued their retreat to the main- land, saving both their artillery and their stores. The British loss was 260, while the New England militia lost 206 men. 3J M. from New- port, on this road, is the pretty little church of the Holy Cross, and near it is the farmhouse used by the British Gen. Prescott as heaqduarters. On the night of July 10, 1777, Lieut. -Col. Barton and a small party crossed Narraganset Bay in a boat, and took Prescott from his bed, carrying him into captivity. He was exchanged for Gen. Lee. The grand drive is on * Bellevue Ave., a clean, broad road, lined with villas, and running two miles to the S. Here, at the fashionable hour, passes a procession of elegant equipages only equalled in Central Park, Hyde Park, or the Bois de Boulogne. Many of the homes along this avenue are of palatial splendor, and they form a handsome panorama of architecture. Bailey’s Beach is at the end of Bellevue Ave. ; and among the rocky cliffs on the shore near by is the Spouting Cave, a deep cavern running back from the sea, into which great waves crowd after a storm from the S. E. Unable to go farther, they break with a heavy boom, and dash upward through an opening in the roof, sometimes to a height of 40-50 ft. From the cliffs in the vicinity (near the Boat- House Landing) a noble sea- view is gained, stretching as far as Block Island, 30 miles S. W. The picturesque Gooseberry Island is nearer, in the foreground. “A finer sea- view — lit up, as it is, moreover, BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 3. 45 by the ever truly fairy-like spectacle of ships gliding under sail over the waters — the eye can rarely witness.” Narragansett Ave. runs at right angles with Bellevue Ave., and terminates on the E. at the Forty Steps (leading down the rocks). It is lined with fine houses. The * First Beach (about J M. from the Ocean House) is a strip of white sand, hard and smooth, extending for 1 M. in length and lined with bath-houses. The slope of the shore is very gradual, and the surf is light rather than heavy, so that this is one of the safest beaches on the coast. It is a lively and brilliant scene here during the hours of the white flag in warm days, and the beach is fringed with carriages. The Cliff Cottages are in this vicinity. 1 M. E. is the Second, or Sachuest Beach, whose “hard black beach is the most perfect race- course, and the heaving of the sea sympathizes with the rider, and in- spires him.” The hours of low tide are the favorite times to ride here. Purgatory is at the W. end of Sachuest Beach. It is a wonderful chasm, 160 ft. long, 40-50 ft. deep, and 8-14 ft. wide at the top, torn out by upheaval or eaten by the waves, in the graywacke rock. Several feet of water remain in the chasm at low tide, and in stormy high tides heavy masses of water boom through it. The familiar story of the Lover’s Leap of course attaches to this place, but is antedated by the legend that the Devil once threw into it a sinful Indian squaw, and his hoof-marks can be seen by all unbelievers. Other stories, of later date, attach to the Purgatory, but the origin of its name does not transpire. Paradise is a verdant valley adorned with cottages, opening off Sachuest Beach, and near it is a mass of rocks and upheaved boulders called Para- dise Lost. The Third Beach is a long, quiet, and sequestered line of sand, above which are the Hanging Rocks, where, in a sheltered natural alcove, Dean Berkeley loved to sit, and look out over the wide sea, and write down his meditations. Here he composed “ Alciphron ; or the Minute Philosopher,” a series of Platonic dialogues defending the Christian system. Here probably he wrote the noble lyric ending with the prophecy : — “ Westward the course of empire takes its way, The four first acts already past, A fifth shall end the drama with the day. Time’s noblest offspring is the last.” George Berkeley, Dean of Derry, a famous philosopher and idealist, conceived a plan for converting the American Indians by a university, and came to New- port, under royal charter, in 1729. He built the mansion “Whitehall” (now a farmhouse), 3 M. from the town, but soon found that his scheme was im- practicable, and returned to England in 1731, giving his Newport estate and a fine library to Yale and Harvard Colleges. From 1733 until his death (in 1753) he was Bishop of Cloyne. Washington Allston was fond of roaming on these beaches, and Dr. Channing once remarked (of First Beach), “No spot on earth has helped to form me so much as that beach.” Sachuest Point is on the S. E. of the island, and is much visited by fishermen. 46 Route 3. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. To Miantonomi Hill, 1| M. from the city, with its old British earth- works and noble view of Newport and its environs, is a pleasant ex- cursion for a clear day. Iloneyman's Hill, near Miantonomi, is another far-viewing point. The old Malbone Estate (see “Malbone; a Romance of Oldport,” by T. W. Higginson) was at the foot of Miantonomi Hill. The Pirates' Cave and Bateman’s Point are often visited, being about 4J M. from the city, and a favorite drive is around the Neck, past Fort Adams, and along Ocean and Bellevue Aves. to the city again, the distance being little more than 10 M. Fort Adams, distant 3J-4 M. from the city (by Thames St. and Wel- lington Ave.). This is the strongest (save two, Fortress Monroe and Fort Richmond) of the coast defences of the U. S., and mounts 468 can- non, requiring a garrison of 3,000 men. Its systems of covered ways, casemates, and other protective works, is complete. The “fort days,” (twice weekly), when the garrison band plays its best music, attract great numbers of visitors, and many carriages pass the imposing granite walls, and wait on the parade. This fortress is on Brenton’s Point, named for the noble family of that name. William Brenton was governor of the colony 1666-69 ; his son, Jahleel, was a cus- toms officer under William III. ; his grandson, Jahleel, resided on the great family estates in the island ; his great-grandson, Jahleel, refused very tempting offers from the Americans, left his estates, which were afterwards confiscated, and com- manded the British frigate, the “Queen”; his great-great-grandson, Jahleel, an English knight and rear-admiral of the Blue, died at London in 1841. Opposite Fort Adams, on Conanicut Island, is an old stone fort, cir- cular in form, called the Dumplings. A fine marine view is enjoyed from this loftily placed ruin. Goat Island, opposite the city-wharves, is the headquarters of the torpedo division of the U. S. Naval Service. Here is the school in which the young officers of the navy are instructed in the torpedo service. Lime Rock is beyond Goat Island, and is famed for being the home of Ida Lewis, the American Grace Darling, who has saved many lives in this harbor. Rose Island is farther out in the Bay, and has the remains of an old fort upon it. Fort Green was built in 1798, near the Blue Rocks and the line of Washington St. On Coaster's Harbor Island is a fine Asylum for the poor, on land left by Wm. Coddington, the founder of R. I., and for nine years its governor. Uliotle Island was bought from the Indians in 163S. Its name was Aquid- neck, “The Isle of Peace.” The earliest discoverers named it Claudia, and a later exploring expedition from Holland, coming upon it in the autumn, when its forests were in bright colors, called it Rood Eylandt, the Red Island. Roger Williams tried to fasten the name “Patmos” upon it, but Rhode Island prevailed, derived, according to some, from its similarity to tlie Isle of Rhodes, a Moslem fortress in the E. Mediterranean. In that early day Neale called it “the garden of New England,” and even now the Rhode Island farms are the most valuable in the six States. Off its shores are caught 112 kinds of fish, ranging from whales to smelts. The island is 15 M. long by 3-4 M. wide, and is “pleasantly laid BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 3. 47 out in hills and vales and rising grounds, with plenty of excellent springs and fine rivulets, and many delightful landscapes of rock, and promontories, and adjacent lands.” Malbone, the celebrated portrait-painter, was born at Newport in 1777, and Capt. ! Decatur, of the navy, was born here in 1751, whose son was Stephen Decatur, “the Bayard of the seas.” After leaving Fall River, and touching at Newport, the steamer moves on steadily through the night, passing Point Judith, Block Island, and j Fisher’s Island, after which she enters the tranquil waters of Long Island Sound. At a very early hour the narrowing W. end of the Sound is entered, and the shores of Westchester County are passed on the N. Throgg’s Point, on the r., bears Fort Schuyler (318 guns), out on the Sound, which is mated by a strong fortress on Willet’s Point (opposite). After passing several villages, Flushing Bay opens to the 1., with the beautiful village of Flushing at its head. Richly cultivated islands and shores follow, up to Randall’s Island, with the House of Refuge, and Ward’s Island, with the Emigrant-Refuge and Hospital, and the Potter’s Field, where 3,000 of the poor of New York are buried yearly. The steamer now enters Hell Gate, a wild and turbulent succession of strong currents and whirlpools, caused by the action of immense bodies of water, in the changes of the tide, being poured through this narrow and sinuous strait, which abounds in rocky islets and sunken ledges. The passage of this point was formerly difficult and dangerous, and two or three British frigates were wrecked here during our wars. But immense ledges have been removed by submarine blasting, and now but little danger remains. Astoria and Ravenswood are beautiful villages soon passed on the Long- Island shore, after which Blackwell’s Island comes into view, with its long lines of charitable and correctional establishments. The N. point of this island'is occupied by a neat little model of a fort, with a formid- able array of wooden cannon, called Fort Maxey or the Crazy-Man’s Fort. It was built by an Irish lunatic named Maxey, who has lived many years here, and claims a great sum from the government for his defense of New York. The octagonal building, with two long wings, is the Lunatic Asylum. One wing is reserved for each sex, while the more noisy maniacs are kept in a separate building on the E. The Work-Houses come next, where willing hands which can find no work, and vagrants, who will not do honest labor, are furnished with appropriate work. The extensive Alms-Houses, with the handsome house of the Superintendent, come next, being divided into male and female departments. Then the extensive Penitentiary and Charity-Hospital are passed, and, on the lower end of the island, the ornate building of the Small-Pox Hospital. These structures are all of granite, quarried here by the convicts, and probably there is no cluster of such institutions, in the same space, in the world, which combine so much of safety, comfort, and practical influence for correction and restraint. Deep ship-channels run on each side of the 48 Route 4 - BOSTON TO S. DUXBURY. island, and on the Manhattan shore, opposite its centre, is the great German Festival-Garden, called Jones’ Wood. Hunter’s Point and Greenpoint are now passed on the left, and a long line, on both sides of the East River, of foundries and factories. Then comes Williamsburg with its shipyards. On the 1., and beyond it, fronting on Wallabout Bay, is the Brooklyn Navy-Yard, the principal naval-station of the Union, where several U. S. frigates may usually be seen. Crowded wharves now stretch into the stream on each side, with forests of masts, while fleet and powerful tug-boats dart to and fro in the river, and the crowded and ever busy ferry-boats cross and recross it. The works of the great East-River Bridge are seen near Fulton Ferry in Brooklyn. Where Brooklyn bends off to the S. W., the steamer turns to the W., and passes Governor’s Island on the 1. This island belongs to the government, and its centre is occupied by Fort Columbus, a low-lying but powerful star-fort, mounting 120 guns. A water-battery on the S. W. commands the channel toward Brooklyn, and a tall, semi-cir- cular fort with three tiers of guns, called Castle William, looks toward the Battery. The steamer now rounds the Battery, the tree-shaded lower extremity of Manhattan Island. This was once a favorite park, but is now neglected. The curious round building at the water’s edge was built in 1807 by the government, as a fortress, under the name of Castle Clinton. At a later day great fairs and concerts were held here, and it is now used as an emigrant depot. On the 1., Ellis, Bedloes, and Staten Islands are seen, and Jersey City and Bergen. Passing up the North River the boat soon enters its dock at the foot of Chambers St. (see New York). 4. Boston to S. Buxfcury. Via Old Colony and South Shore Railroads. Distance, 39 M. Time, lf-2J hrs. Boston to Braintree, see Route 3. Stations, E. Braintree, Weymouth, Wessagusset (Weymouth Hotel), 12 M. from Boston, a town of 9,000 in- habitants, was settled at an early date by 60 Episcopalians. Here, in 1623, occurred the terrible attack of Miles Standish on the assembled In- dian chiefs, whose justifiableness has not yet been proven clearly. The scene is well described in the 7th part of “ The Courtship of Miles Stand- ish,” by Longfellow. After this affair, the Episcopalian colonists left, and in 1624 a company moved in from Weymouth, in Dorsetshire, Eng. who gave its name to the town. Stations N. Weymouth, E. Weymouth, W. Hingham, Hingham (see Route 2), Nantasket, and Cohasset. The latter is a small town with a quaint old church on its green. The rocky shores and resounding inlets along the ocean front are very picturesque, and are adorned with fine villas. BOSTON TO S. DUXBURY. Route If. 49 No district in America yields such quantities of Irish moss as do the shores of Cohasset and Scituate. On these same “hard sienitic rocks, which the waves have laid hare hut have not heen able to crumble,” in Oct., 1849, the emigrant vessel “ St. John ” was wrecked, and many scores of passengers were lost. “ The sea-bathing at Cohasset Rocks was perfect. The water was purer and more trans- parent than any I had ever seen. The smooth and fantastically worn rocks, and the perfectly clean and tress-like rock-weeds falling over you, and attached so firmly to the rocks that you could pull yourself up by them, greatly enhanced the luxury of the bath.” — Thoreau. Capt. John Smith, when passing by one of these rocky promontories, in 1614, was attacked by the Indians with arrows, whereupon he says, “We found the people in those parts verie kinde ; but in their furie no lesse valiant.” At N. Cohasset are the Black Rock and Rockville Houses, while the Pleasant Beach House is south of these, and on a point near Minot’s Ledge is the extensive Glades House. Minot’s Ledge is a dangerous reef far out from the shore. In 1849, a lighthouse on iron piles was built here, but this was swept away in the great storm of April, 1851, and its keepers were lost. The present lighthouse (8 M. from Boston Light) is 88 ft. high, of which the lower 40 ft. are of solid masonry. Stations N. Scituate, Egypt, Scituate (South Shore House), a quiet old marine village looking out on the ocean through a wide harbor-mouth scarce a mile away. Cliff St. leads up on an eminence whence a fine view is gained of the sea, and the singular and desolate bluffs in the S. Near by is Peggotty Beach, with good bathing, but no hotel. Station, South Scituate (far- viewing hotel on the bluffs near the R. R.), E. Marshfield, Littletown, Marshfield Centre. Marshfield station is about 4 M. from the seaside resort of Brant Rock (several small hotels). Carriages are usually in waiting at the sta- tion to carry travellers to Brant Rock, or to the Webster Estate (2 M.). The Webster Mansion is a large, antique, and pleasant house, approached from the road by a long, curving avenue lined with trees. By the courtesy of the present possessors of the estate, travellers are permitted to go through the house (gratuity to servants, 50 cts.). The various apart- ments of the house, low, broad, and wainscotted, are filled with old paint- ings and relics. The library, a high and graceful room on the N. wing, contains the books and many interesting mementos of the statesman, together with an interpolated bust of Pope Pius IX. \ M. S. of the Webster Mansion (passing, on the 1., a French-roofed house, where lives Adelaide Phillips, the celebrated contralto), at the end of the road, is the old Winslow Plouse, built and inhabited by the Pilgrim Gov. Winslow in the 17th century. A road turning to the 1. from the main road just N. of the "Webster farm, and running toward the sea, leads in a few minutes to an ancient burying-ground on an ocean-viewing hill. The first graves reached are those of the Webster family: Daniel, and his sons, — Major Edward, died in the Mexican War, and Col. Fletcher Webster (12th Mass. Infantry), killed at the battle of Bull Run, 1862. Daniel Webster, born at Salisbury, N. H., Jan. 18, 1872, was in the class of 1S01 at Dartmouth College, and afterwards became a lawyer. His matchless elo- quence and vast ability carried him rapidly forward, and he became a Congress- 3 D 50 Route 4- EOSTON TO S. DUXBURY. man (1813-17, and 1823-27), a Senator (1827-39, and 1845-50), and Secretary of State (1840-43, and 1850-52.) “ The famous Dartmouth College case, carried by appeal to Washington in 1817, placed him in the front rank of the American bar. Among the great cases argued by him before the U. S, Supreme Court were those of Gibbons and Ogden (steamboat monopoly case), that of Ogden and Saunders (State insolvent laws), the Charles River Bridge case, the Alabama Bank case, the Girard Will case, and the Rhode Island Charter case Dec. 22, 1820, he delivered his celebrated discourse at Plymouth on the anniversary of the landing of the Pilgrims. Others of this class of efforts were that on the laying of the corner-stone of the Bunker Hill Monument (June 17, 1825), and at its completion (June 17, 1843), and the eulogy on Adams and Jefferson, July 4, 1826. He again entered Congress in Dec., 1823; made his famous speech on the Greek Revolution ; and, as chairman of the judiciary committee, reported and carried through the House a complete revision of the criminal code of the U. S. In the 19th Congress he made a masterly speech on the proposed diplo- matic Congress at Panama His great speech in reply to Ilayne, delivered in the Senate Jan. 26 and 27, 1830, on Foote’s resolution, has been decared, next to the Constitution itself, the most correct and complete exposition of the true powers and functions of the Federal Government.” As Secretary of State under Tyler and Fillmore, he settled the Northeastern Boundary question (Ash- burton Treaty). “ Mr. Webster’s person was imposing, of commanding height, and well-proportioned, the head of great size, the eye deep-seated, large, and lus- trous, his voice deep and sonorous, his action appropriate and impressive.” His elo- quence on great occasions has been called “the lightning of passion running along the iron links of argument.” He was very fond of rural life, of farming, and of fishing and hunting. On the 24th of Oct., 1852, at his home in Marshfield, died Daniel Webster, the foremost man in New England’s history. Near the Webster Monument is an iron-railed lot, containing the tombs of “The Honble. Josiah Winslow, Gov. of New Plymouth. Dyed December ye 18, 1680, setatis, 62.” “Penelope, ye widdow of Gov. Winslow,” and others. Edward Winslow came in the “Mayflower,” and was governor of Plymouth in 1633, ’36, and ’44. He was a warm friend of the Sachem Massasoit. Iii 1635, while Plymouth’s agent, Archbishop Laud imprisoned him 17 weeks in the Fleet Prison for heretical acts. He died in 1655, while in partial superintendence of a fleet sent by Cromwell against the Spaniards. From Edward’s brother was de- scended John A. Winslow, rear-admiral U. S. navy, who fought in the Mex- ican War, and in the Western river squadrons, 1861-63. June 19, 1864, com- manding the “Kearsage,” he was attacked off Cherbourg by the Confederate war steamer, the “Alabama.” The vessels were of about the same strength, but so skilfully was the “Kearsage” protected and manoeuvred that her opponent was sunk within sight of the crowded French coast. Josiah Winslow, son of Edward, was born at Marshfield in 1629, commanded the colonial armies through King Philip’s War, and was the first native-born governor (1673-1680). His grandson, John Winslow, born at Marshfield, 1702, a brave and able officer, “was the principal actor in the tragedy of the expulsion of the hap- less Acadians from Nova Scotia in 1755 ; and it is a singular fact that, 20 years after, nearly every person of Winslow’s lineage was, for political reasons, by the force of events, transplanted to the very soil from which the Acadians were ex- pelled.” After Marshfield are the stations Webster Place , Duxbury (Hollis House), and S. Duxbury. Duxbury was allotted to John Alden (youngest of the Pilgrims, whose great grandson commanded the 7th Mass. Continental Regt. , and was killed in battle at Cherry Valley), and to Miles Standish. The Bradfords also settled here, and Alden Bradford, the author, and Gamaliel Bradford, colonel of the 14tli Mass. Regt. through the war for independence, were born here. Duxbury was so named from its be- ing the home of the military chief (dux) of the colony. Standish lived on Cap- tain’s Hill, in S. Duxbury, a far-viewing eminence 180 ft. high, and sur- rounded on 3 sides by the waters of the Bay. In Oct., 1872, imposing cere- monies were held on this hill, and a costly monument (to be finished late in 1873) was dedicated to the Pilgrim soldier. A fine view of Plymouth and the BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH. Route 5. 51 ocean (and of Cape Cod in clear weather) is enjoyed from Captain’s Hill. Miles Standish, a veteran of the Flanders campaigns, came over with the Pilgrims, and was made the head of their armies (consisting of 12 men), although he did not belong to their church. He was a short man, very brave, but impetuous and choleric, and his name soon became a terror to all hostile Indians. He is the hero of a beautiful poem in nine parts, by Longfellow, called “ The Courtship of Miles Standish.” Ralph Partridge, the first pastor of Duxbury, “had the innocence of a dove and the loftiness of an eagle. His epitaph is ‘ Avolavit.’ ” — Mather. The Standish House is on the harhor some distance from the S. Duxbury Station. Its still-water bathing is good. From Duxbury Post Office to Plymouth, by the main road, is 9 M. At Duxbury is the American end of the French Atlantic Telegraph. 5. Boston to Plymouth. Via Old Colony Railroad, 37J M., in If hrs. Boston to S. Braintree , see Route 3. Stations, S. Weymouth , N. Abington (Culver House), Abington, S. Abington (Wheeler House), the last three stations being in a town of about 10,000 inhabitants, who are mostly engaged in the manufacture of shoes. The line now approaches the great lake-strewn forest of the Old Colony, passing the stations of N. Hanson , Hanson, Halifax, Fly mp ton, and Kings- ton (Patuxet House, with daily stage to N. Carver). The train now passes along the W. shore of Plymouth Harbor, with Captain’s Hill (Duxbury) prominent on the 1. across the water. Plymouth., Umpame, or Patuxet. (Samoset House, a large and comfortable hotel, near the R. R. station. $ 1.50 to $2a day). Elizabeth, Queen of England, in 1558 - 62, put into operation the Acts of Su- premacy and Uniformity, and the Articles of Religion, sternly forbidding all forms of religious worship within her realm, save those prescribed by the Church of England, of which she was the head. Almost simultaneously a sect sprang up, claiming that the Anglican Church still retained many of the errors of Roman Catholicism ; while, in opposition to the Queen’s primacy and ecclesiastical laws, they maintained that the church was spiritual, governed by the laws of Christ given in the New Testament, and separate from temporal affairs and independent of earthly sovereigns. Hence they were called Separatists (sometimes Brown- ists). They were imprisoned and martyred by the government, and in 1598 many fled to Holland. Churches existed at Southwark and elsewhere, but the true birthplace of the Pilgrim Church (if not at Jerusalem) was at the deserted “ Manor of the Bishops ” (of York) at Scrooby. Bancroft, the new primate, redoubled the persecutions, in 1602, and in 1608 the church at Scrooby ran the blockade of the English coast, and went to Amsterdam. In 1609 the Pilgrims moved to Leyden, and in 1620 sailed from Delfthaven, via Southampton, for America. On Sept. 6, the “Mayflower,” previously driven back by adverse circumstances, left Ply- mouth in England, intending to reach land and settle near the Hudson River. By treachery or otherwise they struck the continent far north of this point, and on the 21st Dec., 1620, the Pilgrims landed at New Plymouth. Capt. Smith was severely attacked here by the Indians in 1614, and Standish’s rude forays on Cape Cod had enraged the aborigines, but the Wampanoag tribe, which in 1616 numbered 30,000 souls, had been reduced by a great war, followed by a pestilence, to a remnant of 300. By the latter part of March, 44 Pilgrims had died, and then the Sachem Massasoit made an alliance with the dwindling colony. In 1622 a massive structure was erected for a church, with a battlemented roof and ord- nance, which made it the castle of the village. In 1621 and 1623 other companies 52 Route 5. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH. of Pilgrims crossed the sea, after which the colony throve and occupied the neigh- boring lands. In March, 1621, Samoset and Tisquantum came in and told them of -the land (the latter having been stolen by Hunt, in 1614, from the coast, and sold at Malaga as a slave). In 1624, the first cattle ever in New England were landed here, and in the same year Plymouth was found to consist of 32 houses, surrounded by a high palisade with fortified gates. Canonicus, chief of the Narra- gansetts, sent a sheaf of arrows bound with a rattlesnake’s skin, to Gov. Bradford, as a token of hostility. The skin was filled with powder and shot, and sent back to Canonicus, who understood this grim answer, and as long as he lived restrained his tribe from attacking the colony. As one of the United Colonies, Plymouth bore her part in the Indian wars, until it finally joined the colony of Massachusetts Bay, in 1692. “ Methinks I see it now, that one, solitary, adventurous vessel, the ‘Mayflower,’ of a forlorn hope, freighted with the prospects of a future state, and bound across the unknown sea. I behold it pursuing, with a thousand misgivings, the uncer- tain, the tedious voyage. Suns rise and set, and weeks and months pass, and winter surprises them on the deep, but brings them not the sight of the wished- for shore. I see them now scantily supplied with provisions, crowded almost to suffocation in their ill-stored prison, delayed by calms, pursuing a circuitous route ; and now driven in fury before the raging tempest on the high and giddy waves. .... The awful voice of the storm howls through the rigging. The laboring masts seem straining from their base ; the dismal sound of the pumps is heard ; the ship leaps, as it were, madly, from billow to billow ; the ocean breaks and settles with engulfing floods over the floating deck, and beats with deadening, shivering weight against the staggered vessel. I see them, escaped from these perils, pursuing their all but desperate undertaking, and landed at last, after a five months’ passage, on the ice-clad rocks of Plymouth, weak and weary from the voyage, poorly armed, . . . without shelter, without means, surrounded by hos- tile tribes Tell me, man of military science, in how many months were they all swept away by the 30 savage tribes of New England ? Tell me, politician, how long did this shadow of a colony, on which your conventions and treaties had not smiled, languish on the distant coast ? .... Is it possible, that, from a be- ginning so feeble, so frail, so worthy not so much of admiration as of pity, there has gone forth a progress so steady, a growth so wonderful, an exjjansion so ample, a reality so important, a promise, yet to be fulfilled, so glorious ? ” — Ed- ward Everett. See also Mrs. Hemans’ inimitable hymn, beginning, “ The breaking waves dashed high On a stern and rock-bound coast, When a band of exiles moored their bark By the wild New England shore.” On Court St. is the classic * Pilgrim Eall, in front of which is a rock of gray sienitic granite, surrounded by an iron fence. This is “the cor- ner-stone of the Republic,” a portion of the rock on which the Pilgrims first stepped from their boats, and which was drawn from the water- side in 1775. The Pilgrim Hall (open daily) contains “The Landing of the Pilgrims,” a large painting of much interest (13 x 16 ft.), and nine portraits ; busts of Daniel Webster and John Adams ; Governor Carver’s chair ; sword, &c., of Miles Standish ; the gun-barrel with which King Philip was killed, and a letter from King Philip ; embroidery by Lorea Standish ; and a great number of relics of the early colonists, with an elegant model of the monument which is to be. The principal ledge of * Forefathers’ Rock is on Water St., and is covered by a singular edifice (canopy) of granite, in whose attic has been placed the bones of several men who died in the winter of 1620-1. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH. Route 5 . 53 Town Green is at the end of Main Street. On the site of the present Gothic Unitarian Church older churches were built in the first days. The remarkably homely Church of the Pilgrimage (Cong.) stands near by. Opposite this church is the Town Hall, built in 1749. To the r. of the Unitarian Church is the path to the * Burying Hill, where many of the Pilgrims were interred. Ancient and moss-covered tomb- stones cover the green slopes, with here and there more pretentious mon- uments, as those to Gov. Bradford, Elder Cushman, and others. In 1622, the embattled church was built on this hill, with six cannon on its sheltered fiat roof. Every man brought his gun and ammunition to church, and sentinels, on a tower, watched incessantly. The * view from Burying Hill is fine, embracing the harbors of Plymouth and Duxbury, Captain’s Hill, Cape Cod, Manomet Hills, &c. Leyden St., the first street in New England, runs E. from Town Square to the water. Near the foot of Middle St. and W. of the canopy-covered rock, is a small green space called Cole’s Hill, where were buried 50 of the Mayflower company (including Gov. Carver), in 1620-21. Near the Pilgrim Hall are the handsome County buildings ; and on Training Green, near the High School, is a monument to the town’s soldiers who died in the War for the Union. Behind the High School is Watson’s Hill, where Massasoit appeared in March, 1621, with 60 warriors, and concluded a league with the handful of Pilgrims which was sacredly kept for 50 years. Billington Sea, one of the two hundred ponds which are in the vast Plymouth Forest (“ the Adirondacks of Massachusetts”), is about 2 M. from the village, and is 4| M. around. About 3 M. S. of Plymouth is the Clifford House, a favorite summer resort. S. W. of Plymouth is the lofty promontory of Manomet, near which is the village (hotel) of Manomet Ponds. A strip of sand 3 M. long forms a natural breakwater before the town, on which, in Dec., 1779, the war-ship “Gen. Arnold” was wrecked, and 70 men frozen to death on her decks. In the N. part of the harbor is Clark’s Island, where the Pilgrims remained Dec. 9th and 10th, 1620. Beyond are the prominent points of Saquish and the Gurnet, on the latter of which is a lighthouse. On a high hill near the Samoset House 9 acres of land have been bought, and 1,500 tons of.granite laid as foundation for a National Monument to the Fore- fathers. On an octagonal pedestal of granite 40 ft. high, will stand a statue of Faith, also 40 ft. high (the “ Bavaria” at Munich is 42 ft. high). Her right hand is uplifted, and her left holds a Bible. On pedestals about the base will be four sitting statues representing the cardinal principles of the Pilgrim commonwealth, — Morality, Law, Education, and Freedom. Each of these is to be 20 ft. high, with 8 statues in niched panels by their thrones, each of which will be 9 ft. high. Historical records and bas-reliefs will adorn the sides of the pedestal, and an in- ternal stairway will lead to the feet of Faith. Statues, pedestal, and all, are to be of granite. 54 Route 6. BOSTON TO CAPE COD. 6. Boston to Cape Cod. Via Old Colony R. R., Boston to Wellfleet, 106 miles, in 4J - 5 hours. Fare, $3.05. Two trains daily. Boston to S. Braintree, see Route 3. Station, Holbrook , with a pretty little Victoria Gothic Town Hall. Station, E. Stoughton, after which the line passes through a district which illustrates the poverty of the American mind in the matter of naming towns. Four towns, each containing many square miles, are named respectively, N. Bridgewater, W. Bridgewater, E. Bridgewater , and Bridgewater. Stations, N. Bridgewater (Standish House), Camjpello, Keith's, E. and W. Bridgewater . Bridgewater, Sawtucket (Hyland House), was bought of the Indians by Miles Standish in 1645. In 1740, Hugh Orr, a Scotchman, erected a trip-hammer here, and in 1748 made 500 muskets for the Province of Massachusetts, the same being the first made in this country. During the Devolution, he made great numbers of iron and brass cannon, and cannon-balls for the continental army. A branch railroad, 7 miles long, runs from Bridgewater to S. Abington, on the Plymouth Branch R. R. Stations, Titicut and Middleboro (Ne* masket House), a prosperous town (of about 5,000 inhabitants), where several railways unite. Between S. Braintree and Fall River the Old Colony R. R. has two divisions, eastern and western, several miles apart. On the western division (the shorter of the two) the steamboat trains run, while the eastern division, running E. of S. from Boston to Middleboro, here turns sharply to the S. W. to Fall River and Newport. From Middleboro to Fall River by the main (eastern) line is 14 M. f passing stations Lakeville, Myrick’s, and Assonet. At Myrick’s, the New Bedford and Taunton R. R. crosses the Old Colony R. R. (Myrick’s to New' Bedford in \ hr.). A railroad runs from Middleboro to Taunton direct, a distance of 10£ M. (fare 40 c.), passing the stations Lakeville, Chace’s, E. Taunton, and Weir. 3-4 M. S. of Middleboro is a cluster of great ponds, abounding in fish. Asowamsett Pond (Lakeville House) is the largest sheet of fresh water in the State, and con- tains 6-8 square miles. On its shores Capt. Dermer was received by the Wam- panoag sachems in 1619, and here the anti-English chief, Corbitant, revolted against Massasoit, in 1621, and seized the Plymouth envoys. Standish promptly marched forth, fell upon Corbitant’s camp by night, and achieved success in the first warlike expedition made from Plymouth. The Cape Cod Division of the O. C. R. R. begins at Middleboro. Stations, Rock, S. Middleboro, and Tremont, or W. Wareham. From Tremont the Fairhaven Branch runs to New Bedford (16 M.), passing the stations Marion, Mattapoisett, and Fairhaven. 3 M. S. of Marion station (Old Landing), passing Sippican village, is White House Beach, fronting on Sippican Harbor. 3-4 M. from Marion station is a high promontory, surrounded on three sides by Buzzards Bay and Wing’s Cove, on which is a favorite summer hotel, the Great Hill House. Mattapoisett (Mattapoisett House) is a small village near Buzzards Bay, with fine water-views and large inland forests. The fishing in the inlets is fine. After passing Tremont station, on the Cape Cod R. R., the line passes through the town of Wareham, the northern inlets of Buzzards Bay being often seen on the r. Stations, S. Wareham, Wareham (Ken- BOSTON TO CAPE COD. Route 6. 55 drick’s Hotel), E. Wareham, and Cohasset Narrows, where is the junction of the R. R for Falmouth, Martha’s Vineyard, &c. (See Route 7.) Soon after, the Straits between Buzzards and Buttermilk Bays are crossed, and then follow the stations, Monument, N. Sandwich, W. Sandwich, and Sandwich. “ The Cape extends E. from Sandwich 35 M., and thence N. and N. W. 30 more, in all 65, and has an average breadth of 5 M.” It is nearly all sand, with boulders dropped on it here and there. Hitch- cock thinks that the ocean has eaten out Boston Harbor, and other bays, and built Cape Cod of the minute fragments. A thin layer of soil reaches as far as Truro; “but there are many holes and rents in this weather-beaten garment not likely to be stitched in time, which reveal the naked flesh of the Cape, and its extremity is completely bare.” It is believed that the shores of Cape Cod are the Furdustrandas (Wonder- Strands) discovered by Thorhall, the Norseman, in the year 1007. (“When they were ready, and their sail hoisted, Thorhall sang : Let us return where our people are. Let us make a bird (vessel), skilful to fly through the heaven of sand, to ex- plore the broad track of ships ; while warriors who impel to the tempest of swords, who praise the land, inhabit Wonder-Strands, and cook whales.”) In 1524, Verrazzani, in the frigate “Dauphin,” coasted about Cape Cod, which is probably his “ Cape Arenas,” and in 1525, the Portuguese mariner Gomez, explored and mapped much of southern New England. The first Anglo-Saxon in New England was Capt. Gosnold, who coasted and named Cape Cod in the year 1602, having caught many codfish thereabouts, and landed at different points. In 1604, Champlain visited this locality, and named it Cap Blanc (White Cape), because the sand contrasted so with the dark rocks of the northern coasts. A harbor on the S. E. he named Mallebarre, which name still clings to the S. E. Cape. In 1609, Hendrick Hudson, with a vessel of the Dutch E. I. Company, rediscovered Cape Cod, naming it New Holland, and found a mermaid near by, concerning which (or whom) he gives a curious account. In 1614, Capt. John Smith visited the Cape, and describes it as “a headland of high hills of sand, overgrown with shrubby pines, hurts, and such trash, but an excellent harbor for all weather.” Prince Charles, his patron, named it Cape James, but the name did not take. About this time the infamous Capt. Hunt kidnapped a ship-load of Indians from the coast, so when Harlow landed at the Cape late in 1614, he was attacked, and only escaped (with loss) by cannonading the attacking flotilla of canoes. In 1616, a French ship grounded or anchored near the Cape, was car- ried by boarding, and the Indians killed all on board save four, whom they sent far and wide through the country as curious trophies. The horrible pestilence which immediately after passed over Massachusetts, was attributed by the Indian doctors to this fact. In 1620, the vanguard of the Pilgrims appeared in one of the Cape harbors, and erelong many villages sprang up here. In 1623, the blame- less chiefs, Cawnacome, Sachem of Manomet (Sandwich), A spinet of Nauset (Chatham), and Iyanough of Cummaquid (Barnstable), were with the council at Weymouth when Standish made his attack. They escaped and hid in the swamps of the Cape, where they soon died of sorrow and privation, and too late it was proven that they were perfectly innocent. Notwithstanding their unfavorable experiences of Christian civilization, the Cape Indians passed under its influehce, and soon 6 Indian churches and 18 assemblies, with 24 native pastors, were num- bered there. Consequently, at the outbreak of the war of 1675, they repudiated their ancient allegiance to King Philip, and remained faithful to the colonists. Sandwich (Central House) is a village near the S. edge of the Plymouth Forest, and distant 12 M. from Plymouth. The extensive glass-works are near the station. From W. Barnstable station stages run to Cotuit Port, “the home of genial sportsmen,” 6-7 M. distant, on the S. shore of the Cape. The 56 Route 6. BOSTON TO CAPE COD. highlands about the little harbor on which the village is situated are partly 'clothed with pine woods and interspersed with many fresh ponds. The Santuit House, near the beaches on the S. shore, is much visited in summer. Barnstable is a quiet village with the county buildings. On Great Neck, in Marshpee (Massapee), a few M. W. of Cotuit Port, was the chief village of the Cape Indians who dwelt on this reservation. In 1658, Rich- ard Bourne went there as a missionary, and formed a church of which he was pastor until his death in 1685. Before King Philip’s War there were 10,000 Christian Indians in New England. Many of these, including scores of the Mas- sapees, were killed fighting for their white brethren, or else, remaining neutral, were treated pitilessly by the colonists. Nearly every man of the Massapees joined the 1st Mass. Reg. in 1775, and but few returned. Gideon Hawley (Yale College, 1749) preached here 1758-1807. In 1802, the last pure-blooded Indian died. So many of the men died in the War for Independence, that negroes joined the tribe, and it is now a collection of Indo-African half-breeds. In 1834, in response to their “ Bill of Complaints” signed by 287 persons, the State granted them limited powers of autonomy. In 1850, about 200 persons were left on the reservation. Yarmouth is coeval with Barnstable. Near it is a favorite Methodist camp-ground. A branch R. R. runs from Yarmouth to Hyannis (Iya- nough House), the point of departure for the steamers to Nantucket (30 miles). Extensive beaches bordered by blulfs covered with groves are near Hyannis. Stations, S. Yarmouth, S. Dennis, not far from Scargo Hill, the highest land on the Cape, from which a noble ocean view is alforded. Stations, N. Harwich , Harwich (Central House, Atlantic), the ancient home of the Satucket Indians. Brewster (Ocean House, Union House), was named in honor of Elder Brewster, of the Mayflower Pilgrims. Large and singular boulders are found here. Many sailors and captains belong in this town, and Orleans (Higgins House) and Eastham, which was settled by the Pilgrims in 1644, under the lead of Thomas Prince, who was for sixteen years govern- or of Plymouth. A fortified church, twenty ft. square, was built, and a part of every stranded whale was by law reserved for the ministry. At Millennium Grove in this town were long held extensive camp-meet- ings. The line now passes, on the E., the broad, sandy plains of Nauset. Stations, N. Eastham (Nauset House), S. Wellfieet, Wellfieet (Holbrook’s Hotel). Wellfieet Bay opens on Cape Cod Bay (the Baye Blanche of Champlain), and is distant from Boston 106 M. by R. R. and 70 M. by water. This village has 100 vessels and nearly 1,000 men in the mackerel fishery. The railroad ends at Wellfieet, and stages connect with it for Provincetown, although it is said that late in 1873 a through track will be laid. North of Wellfieet is Truro, a large, desolate district, on one of whose beaches the British frigate u Somerset ” was wrecked in 1778, and 480 men made prisoners. Near Wellfieet, in 1718, the “ Whi- dah,” a pirate-sliip mounting 23 guns, was wrecked, and 130 buccaneers were drowned. Truro was settled in 1700, under the name of Danger- BOSTON TO CAPE COD. Route 6. 57 field, as it has perhaps the most fatal coast in New England. Scores of vessels have been dashed in pieces on its shore, and hundreds of lives have been lost. There is scarcely a family in Truro, or indeed on the whole Cape E. of Barnstable, but has lost some member by the disasters of the sea. Truro lost 57 men and 7 vessels, and Dennis lost 28 men in one day of 1841. The lofty Fresnel burners of the famous Highland Light (at Clay Pounds on the outer shore of Truro) shed a vivid radiance over leagues of rude coast and deep sea. Thoreau walked from Orleans to Provincetown (several days) on the ocean side of this “sand-bar in the midst of the sea,” and says : — “ The nearest beach to ns on the east was on the coast of Galicia, in Spain, whose capital is Santiago, though by old poets’ reckoning it should have been Atlantis or the Hesperides ; but heaven is found to be farther west now. At first we were abreast of that part of Portugal entre Douro e Mino, and then Galicia and the port of Pontevedro opened to us as we walked along ; but we did not en- ter, the breakers ran so high. The bold headland of Cape Finisterre, a little north of east, jutted toward us next, with its vain brag, for we flung back, — ‘ Here is Cape Cod, Cape Land’s Beginning.’ A little indentation toward the north — for the land loomed to our imaginations like a common mirage — we knew was the Bay of Biscay, and we sang : ‘ There we lay till next day, In the Bay of Biscay, O ! ’ ” “A little south of east was Palos, where Columbus weighed anchor, and farther yet the pillars which Hercules set up.” Truro is “a village where its able-bodied men are all ploughing the ocean together as a common field. In N. Truro the women and girls may sit at their doors and see where their husbands and brothers are harvesting their mackerel 15-20 M. off, on- the sea, with hundreds of white harvest-wagons.” The 2nd Mass. Continental Reg. marched from this E. end of the Cape, and fought through the Revolution. In Nov., 1620, Standish and 16 men, “with musket, sword, and corslet,” landed at Long Point, Provincetown, chased the unresisting Indians into Truro, pillaged many graves, and carried off everything portable. They were attacked in Eastham, by Indians, but the arrows fell harmlessly from their corslets, while the musket- shot told on the half-clad red men. Provincetown (Allstrum House, Central House) is a curious ma- rine village, distant from Boston 118 M. by land and 55 M. by water (steamer leaves Central Wharf, Boston, Wednesday and Saturday morn- ings, returning on Monday and Thursday mornings. Fare $1.50). The Harbor is a noble one, broad and clear, and is the favorite refuge of the fishing fleets. The energies of the townsmen are devoted to the fisheries — of mackerel, cod, and sperm-whales, in whose pursuit they search the wildest and most distant banks and bays of the N. Atlantic. The village lies along the beach between the sea and the desert, — an in- habited beach, where fishermen cure and store their fish, without any back country. This is the last town in that strange region where the people “ are said to be more purely the descendants of the Puritans than the inhabitants of any other part of the State.” From these shores come the most daring and skilful of American seamen. “Wherever over the world you see the stars and stripes float- ing, you may have good hope that beneath them some one will be found who can tell you the soundings of Barnstable, or Wellfleet, or Chatham Harbor.” “ Cape 58 Route 7. BOSTON TO MARTHA’S VINEYARD Cod is the hare and bended arm of Massachusetts ; the shoulder is at Buzzards Bay ; the elbow, or crazy-bone, at Cape Malebarre ; the wrist at Truro, and the sandy fist at Provincetown, behind which the State stands on her guard, with her back to the Green Mts., and her feet planted on the floor of the Ocean, like an athlete, — protecting her Bay, boxing with N. E. storms, and, ever and anon, heaving up her Atlantic adversary from the lap of earth, ready to thrust for- ward her other fist, which keeps guard the while upon her breast at Cape Ann.” The era of constitutional government dawned upon the world, when, on Nov. 11, 1620, the storm-tossed Mayflower anchored in Provincetown Harbor. Here, “on the bleak shores of a barren wilderness, in the midst of desolation, with the blast of winter howling around them, and surrounded with dangers in their most awful and appalling forms, the Pilgrims of Leyden laid the foundations of American liberty.” While the Mayflower lay in this harbor, that celebrated compact was drawn up and signed, which long governed Plymouth and her de- pendencies, and of which J. Q. Adams says : “ This is, perhaps, the only instance in human history of that positive original social compact which speculative philosophers have imagined as the only legitimate source of government.” This solemn compact (given below) was signed by 41 men (of whom 21 died in the next four months), 17 of whom had their wives with them, the remaining 43 persons being young people and children. “In the name of God, Amen. We, whose names are underwritten, the loyal subjects of our dread sovereign lord. King James, by the grace of God, of Great Britain, France, and Ireland, King, defender of the faith, &c., having undertaken, for the glory of God, and advancement of the Christian faith, and honor of our king and country, a voyage to plant the first colony in the northern parts of Vir- ginia, do, by these presents, solemnly and mutually, in the presence of God and of one another, covenant and combine ourselves together into a civil body politic, for our better ordering and preservation, and furtherance of the ends aforesaid ; and by virtue hereof to enact, constitute, and frame such just and equal laws, ordinances, acts, constitutions, and offices, from time to time, as shall be thought most meet and expedient for the general good of the colony ; unto which we promise all due submission and obedience. In witness whereof we have hereun- der inscribed our names, at Cape Cod, the 11th of November, in the year of the reign of our soverign lord, King James, of England, France, and Ireland, the 18th, and of Scotland the 54th, Anno Domini, 1620.” 7. Boston to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. Via Old Colony R. R. and Steamers. To Martha’s Vineyard 80 M., in 3J-4 hours. New York to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. To Fall River by steam- boat (Route 3), thence to Myrick’s (not by the steamboat train, but later). Thence to New Bedford, and from there by steamboat to Martha’s Vineyard (in all, 225 M.). Boston to Cohasset Narrows see Route 6. After Cohasset Narrows , the line runs due S. for 18 M., on the E. shore of Buzzards Bay, passing sta- tions, N. Falmouth (near which is Pocasset, abounding in shell-fish, with the Red-Brook House and Bay View Cottage,) W. Falmouth, and Fal- mouth, a quiet old port, which had “ kept on the back side of the Cape, and let the centuries go by ” until 1872, when the railroad aroused it. Near the village on the S. E. are Falmouth Heights, where a company of Worcester men, in 1870, bought 120 acres of land (with two small lakes, several groves, and a mile of beach), to be cut up into lots for a summer village. Tower’s Hotel, 100 ft. long (opened 1871), fronts on Vineyard Sound, with a view of Martha’s Vineyard from its lofty position. Still- water bathing on the beach. A R. R. Station will probably be made near AND NANTUCKET. Route 7. 59 the Heights. The last station is Wood's Hole, whence the steamer car- ries passengers across the Sound (7 M.) to Martha’s Vineyard. Martha’s Vineyard. * Sea-Foam House, a new and sumptuous hotel, gas-lighted, steam-heated, with elevator, billiard-room, ,&c., accommodates 250 guests. $4.50 per day. * High- land House. On Circuit Avenue, in Oak Bluffs Village, are several good hotels, on the European plan ; Baxter House, Pawnee Plouse, Central, Island, &c. Restaurants at the Baxter and Pawnee Houses, &c. Pleasure-Boats at the Sea-Foam Hotel. Sea- baths at the bathing-houses, on Circuit Avenue beyond Ocean Park (30 c.). In May, 1602, Capt. Gosnold coasted the island on the S., and landed on a bar- ren islet (No Man’s Land) to the S. W. which he named Martha’s Vineyard. He then landed on this island (then called Nope), and found, in S. E. Chilmark, deer and all kind of game, springs and a lake of pure fresh water, four kinds of ber- ries in profusion, and trees loaded with fruitful vines. Probably then, or dur- ing his stay at Cuttyhunk (over three weeks) the name was transferred from No Man’s Land to its present possessor. The name is thought to have been given in honor of some friend of the Captain’s, or else for the lady of some one of his patrons. (A newspaper correspondent states that the oldest inhabitant, who owned these isles, gave them to his daughters ere he died. Rhoda took Rhode Island, Elizabeth took the island since named for her, Martha took and named Martha’s Vineyard, and as for the remaining island, Nan-took-it. The legend is interesting, but cannot be traced back farther than the year 1870.) From this island and the neighboring main, Gosnold and Pring (1603) got large cargoes of sassafras, then esteemed a sovereign specific in Europe. In 1614, Capt. Hunt stole 27 Indians at Eastham, on Cape Cod, and sold them as slaves a.t Malaga, for $ 100 each. One of them, Epenow, was carried to England, where the .sly fel- low told of vast gold-mines on this island. A ship was sent over, at great ex- pense, with Epenow to show the place, but as soon as he saw the shore, he leaped over, swam to land, and was not seen again until Capt. Benner landed here in 1619. In a dashing attack conducted by Epenow, the Captain and many of his men were killed and wounded. In 1647, Thomas Mayhew, Governor of the Islands by grant from the Earl of Stirling, settled at Edgartown. The lordship of the isles remained in the Mayhew family from 1641 to 1710, during which time the kindness of these men won the hearts of the natives. The Mayhews were all missionaries, and, learning the Indian language, preached with such success that Christian villages arose all over the island. During King Philip’s War, the con- verts remained true, and guarded the shores. About 1660, some Quakers landed here calling the Puritan pastors “priests of Baal,” but the Indians soon drove them off. Gookin visited the island in 1674, and found six towns of Christian Indians, “ a very fruitful Vineyard unto the Lord of Hosts.” For a century the Indians slowly dwindled, and- the coasting vessels began to frequent Holmes’ Hole in yearly increasing numbers. In 1778, Lord Gray (who defeated Wayne at Paoli) with a British force, destroyed a large number of vessels in the Hole. In 1835, 9 tents were pitched at the present Camp-Grounds, and the first camp-meeting on the island was held. The Wesleyan Grove, or Camp-Meeting Ground, is near the Sea View House and is laid out in gracefully curved streets, grass-paved and crowded with small but vigorous trees. Near Trinity Park, a wide lawn, is the great tabernacle tent 160 by 120 ft. which can shelter 5,000 persons. This is the centre of intense excitement during the meetings in late August, when from 20,000 to 25,000 people are gathered here, and emi- nent Methodist preachers address them. Lake Anthony borders the N. and W. of the ground, and beyond it, on the high bluffs toward East Chop Light, the “Highlands” have been laid out under the influence of 60 Route 7. BOSTON TO MARTHA’S VINEYARD the Methodists. On the E. and S. of the Camp-Ground is the village of Oak Bluffs, laid out in 1868, on bluffs 30 ft. high fronting Vineyard Sound. Among the oak groves here are hundreds of Swiss and Gothic cottages, resembling large bird-houses, bright and clean and cheerful. On a hill near the centre is a curious, many-sided Muscovite chapel, which is used often but floats no denominational flag. It is said that some come to Oak Bluffs “who know and care nothing for Jerusalem or its former inhabi- tants,” wherefore strict police rules are here enforced. The steamer runs to Edgartown daily, and a fine road, 6 - 8 M. long, leads there. The village of Edgartown (Ocean House, Vineyard House) was founded in 1647 by Gov. Mayhew, and is at present the capital of Dukes County. It has a fine harbor, sheltered by Chappaquiddick Island, . and possesses a small marine museum. 10 M. from Oak Bluffs is South Beach, where the Atlantic rolls in grandly after a storm. By walking to the East Chop Light, a view is gained of Holmes’ Hole, or Vineyard Haven, one of the most famous harbors on the coast, where, in seasons of storm, hundreds of vessels take shelter under the lofty bluffs. Through Vineyard Sound passes the vast and unceasing procession of commerce from New York and Southern New England to Boston and the East. 20-25 M. S. W. of Oak Bluffs is Gayliead, near which is the Devil’s Den, a wild spot where the old Indian traditions say that the giant Moshup lived, who caught whales and roasted them on trees which he tore up by the roots. He metamorphosed his children into fish, and, on his wife’s lamenting, he threw her to Seconnet, where she dwelt and levied contributions on all who passed the rocks, until she herself became a rock. Then Moshup disappeared from human sight and knowledge. Gay Head is “ the most remarkable natural curiosity in New England.” The sea-view from the lighthouse is grand. “Never since I stood on Table Rock have I seen a sight so grand as this.” — General Twiggs. About this promontory several score of half-breed Indians live a strange unsettled life. The remarkable cliffs by the shore have been closely studied by Prof. Hitch- cock and Sir Charles Lyell, the latter describing them as “the lofty cliffs of Gay- head, more than 200 ft. high, where the highly inclined tertiary strata are gayly colored, some consisting of light red clays, others of white, yellow, and green, and some of black lignite.” Nantucket is 28 - 30 M. from Martha’s Vineyard, and connected with it by a daily steamer. After leaving the Vineyard astern, the islands of Muskeget and Tuckernuck are seen in the S., and near them the low shores of W. Nan- tucket. The town of Nantucket presents a fine appearance from the water, being built on hills. Hotels — Ocean House, $2.50-3.00 (occu- pying the old mansion of one of the marine aristocracy), a comfortable hotel, famous for its chowders ; and the Adams House. The Indian tradition is that the Great Spirit was once smoking, when he partly filled his pipe with sand. When the mixed remains were emptied from the pipe into the sea, they formed the Island of Nantucket. Its name is said to be an AND NANTUCKET. Route 7. 61 Indian modification of Nautikon, a name left by the Norsemen who visited it in the 11th century. The best authority pronounces it a corruption of an Indian word meaning “ far away.” It is called Natocko on the map of 1630. It was visited by Gosnold in 1602, at which time about 1,500 Indians were here, and the island was covered with oaks. In 1604, Champlain and Poutrincourt landed here and remained several days, for the relief of those men of their command who had been wounded in a battle with the Indians at Chatham. Weary and dis- spirited, they ceased their explorations here, and returned to Port Royal, naming these sad shores “Isle Douteuse.” In 1641, Mayhew was made Governor of the Islands, his sway extending here. In 1659, he deeded ^ of the island to ten men for £30 and two beaver hats, and one family moved there, there being then 700 friendly Indians on Nantucket. In 1665 King Philip visited his people here, and in 1671 the town was incor- porated (at Maddequet, 5-6 M. W. from the present town), and in 1672 moved to its present place. In 1672 the first whale was taken. In 1673 the town was called Sherburne by the New York Governor, in whose domain it was until 1693 (the name was retained till 1795). The 700 English had no church or pastor, though the Indians had four churches. A white church was formed in 1711. In 1755 -6 9 whaling-sloops were sunk or captured, and but few men of their crews ever re- turned. In 1764, there were 3,220 whites on the island ; and a plague, the same year, swept off § of the Indians, leaving but 136. 1,600 Nantucket men died in the Continental Army. In 1784 the population was larger than it is now. In 1821, 78 ships and 81 smaller vessels were owned here, and mostly engaged in whaling. The last Indian died in 1822. Notwithstanding devastating fires in the town, Nantucket in 1840 had 9,712 inhabitants. The town (400 buildings) was burned down in 1846, and the same year the whaling business began to decline, until now there is but one small vessel engaged in it, and in the town which has houses for 10,000 people there are but* about 4,200. The houses are of a quaint old style, with platforms on the roofs (whence to watch the ships coming in). The North Church was the first on the island, and was built in 1711. It is still used by the same society as a vestry, and its oaken timbers are hard as iron. | M. from the Ocean House, on Centre St., is a small house which was built in 1682. The hospitality of the old families of Nantucket is famous, and its churches and schools are numerous. Many houses have been taken down and shipped away, but of late real estate is rising, as city men are securing summer homes here. Main St., at the head of which is the old Pacific Bank, has the shops of the town (shells and marine curiosities may be bought here), and is a wide, deserted, grassy street lead- ing to the heads of silent and decaying wharves. The low, sandy beach which shelters the harbor stretches N. W. 8 - 9 M. to Great Point, leav- ing a wide and quiet lagoon between it and the island. At the Athenaeum is a public library and a museum of marine curiosities and relics of the older days of Nantucket. The Squantum is a peculiar institution of the island, being an informal picnic on the beach-sands, where the dinner is made of fish or other spoils of the sea. Excursions to the fishing grounds are managed by veteran skippers, who let themselves and their boats cheaply. There are rides to the ancient districts on the W. shore, to the beaches on the S. shore, and to Siasconset. Siasconset (Atlantic House) is 8 M. S. of E. from the town, and consists of a cluster of cottages on a high bank fronting the ocean. Surf-bathing here is safe only when the 62 Route 8. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. bathers use ropes, as the shore descends rapidly. 1 M. N. of Siasconset is Sankoty Head, where a powerful Fresnel light is elevated on a far-view- ing bluff 90 ft. high. 1 M. N. of Sankoty Head is the beautiful Sesacacha Pond, of pure, sweet water and abounding in fish (small inn on the shore). In 1676 a village was built on this pond and remained for 140 years ; but its last house was torn down in 1820. Most of the island, over which rambles may be made, consists of high, breezy, sea-viewing plains, where but few fences or houses are seen, and which “the traveller will call downs, prairies, or pampas, as he happens to come from England, the West,* or Buenos Ayres.” 8. Boston to New York. Via Boston and Providence R. R., and Shore Line to New York (in 8 hrs.), or by steamer from Providence, or by steamer from Stonington (in 12 - 13 hrs.) The train leaves the station in Boston (PI. 29), (on Pleasant St., at the foot of the Common), and passes the suburban stations, Roxbury, Jamaica Plain , and Hyde Park , by Readville (where during the war for the Union the State had a vast camp), to Canton, (Massapoag House, Ponkapaug House), a large manufacturing town. Canton was the seat of a large Indian village, where the Apostle Eliot was wont to preach, and in 1845 several pure-blooded Indians remained. From Blue Hill (635 ft. high), E. of the village, is gained a fine * view of Boston and its harbor, the ocean, and many busy villages. Commodore Downes, who commanded the Essex, Jr., when Porter swept the Pacific, was engaged in the Tripolitan War, and in 1815 captured the Algerian frigate “ Nashouda,” was born at Canton. His son commanded the gunboat “ Heron ” and the monitor “ Nahant,” in the War for the Union. Near a massive granite viaduct (600 ft. long, 63 ft. high), in this town, the Stoughton Branch R. R. leaves the main line, running 4 M. to Stoughton, on the Old Colony R. R. Sharon ( Cobb’s Tavern) is in a hilly and picturesque manufacturing town. E. Foxboro Mansfield (Eagle Hotel), whence a railroad runs through Norton and Taunton to New Bedford (Route 9). W. Mansfield, Attle- borough, a considerable manufacturing town (jewelry, &c.), Dodgeville, Hebronville , and Pawtucket , where the line enters the State of Rhode Island. Pawtucket (Pawtucket Hotel, Park House) was the scene of a bloody action in 1676. Capt. Pierce, with 70 men, was driven back to the river by the Indians, and his party was fairly showered with arrows. When help came, not one man was living. At present, Pawtucket is the princi- pal thread .manufactory in America, and steam fire-engines, rope, braid, &c., are made here. The Dunnell Manufacturing Co. has 36 buildings, and prints 22,500,000 yards of calico yearly. The Pawtucket Tack Co. makes 360,000,000 tacks yearly, and 35,000,000 spools are made here every year. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. P^oute 8. G3 Providence. Providence (City Hotel, $4-4.50 a day, Aldrich House; Central Hotel, 6-10 Canal St., European plan), is the second city, in wealth and population, of New England, and a semi-capital of Rhode Island. It is beautifully situated on hills at the head of Narragansett Bay, a cove of which lies far in the city and is surrounded by promenades. The view of the city from the Bay, or from the heights E. of the river, is very pleasing. The China trade was once largely enjoyed by Providence, but since its loss the energies of the citizens have turned to manufactures, and now large jewelry, iron, stove, and locomotive works are kept going. The Corliess engines, the Peabody rifles, the Gorham silver- ware, Perry Davis’s Pain-Killer, and millions of cigars are made here. 44 banks take care of the money. Providence was founded and named by Roger Williams, who was banished from Massachusetts in 1638, for his advanced ideas relative to Church and State. He was born in Wales, 1599, educated at Pembroke College, Cambridge, and preached for some time at Salem, Mass. After his exile he settled at Seekonk, whence he was soon warned away by the Governor of Plymouth. In a canoe, with five companions, he dropped down the river, until, in passing a cove (near the present India St. Bridge), he was hailed by some Indians with the words, “What cheer, Netop ? ” (friend). He landed in this cove on the celebrated What Cheer Rock, and then coasted around to the mouth of Providence River, where he landed and remained. This was in June, 1636. Soon after he visited the Sachem Canonicus (on Canonicut Island) and received a grant of the land hereabouts. In 1639 Williams became a Baptist, and in 1643-4 went to England, and got a charter for the new colony. In King Philip’s War, every house between Stonington and Bridgewater (save Providence) was destroyed, and the little colony was once fiercely attacked, and lost 30 houses. In the royal census of 1730, Providence had 3,916 inhabitants. De Warville visited it in 1788, and reported it “ decayed, and in the silence of death.” In 1800, it had 7,614 inhabitants, and in 1870, 68,904. The R. R. station, fronting on Exchange Place, is a large, handsome building, near which is a costly * monument, erected by the State in honor of her dead soldiers. The base of this work is of blue Westerly ! granite, bearing the arms of the U. S. , and of R. I. Surrounding this ‘ are four 7-ft. bronze statues representing the Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery, 1 and the Navy ; above which is a statue of militant America (10 ft. high), ! j bearing a sword and laurel wreath in one hand, and a wreath of immor- telles in the other. The names of 1,680 R. I. soldiers who died in the War . for the Union are inscribed on the monument, which was designed by Randolph Rogers, of Rome. Near Exchange Place, and parallel to it, is Westminster St., the main thoroughfare of the city. From this street to Weybosset St. runs the Arcade, a fine granite building (built 1828), on $ the plan of the European “galleries,” containing a great number of shops ranged along a glass-roofed promenade. In the vicinity is the massive j granite building of the Custom House and Post Office. The most notable churches are St. Joseph and St. Mary (Roman Catholic), the Union Congregational, the Roger Williams Baptist, the ancient First Baptist (society founded 1639), Grace Church, and St. Stephen’s (Episcopal), a G4 Route 8. BOSTON TO NEW YOKE. massive edifice of nigged brown stone, with a deeply recessed chancel, an ornate roof, and richly stained windows. There are 59 churches in the city. In the S. part, and fronting on the harbor, is the stately building of the * R. I. Hospital, surrounded by pleasant grounds. Some distance S. of this, the city is preparing a park on the bold shores of the Narra- gansett Bay. On the E. side of Providence Biver are two long business streets and a line of heights covered with residences. On N. Main St., near Presi- dent, is the quaint old church of the First Baptist Society, and beyond it, on the corner of S. Court St., is the small brick building used for the State House. Fine views of the u seven hills of Providence ” are gained from Benefit St. above the State House. On the comer of College and Benefit Sts. is the * Athenaeum, a sturdy little granite building, con- taining a library of 32,000 volumes. Several busts are preserved here, and some fine paintings, among which are a copy of Stuart’s Washington, by AUston ; portrait of Channing, A list on ; Charles II., long thought to be by Van Dyk, now held to be by Caspar ; portraits of Gen. Greene, J. G. Percival, and Phillips Brooks ; * portrait of a young lady, (his niece ?) reading, by Sir Joshua Reynolds , one of his finest works. But the gem of this collection is Malbone’s masterpiece, * “ The Hours,” painted in water-colors on a sheet of ivory 6 inches by 7, and presented to the Athenaeum in 1853, by 130 subscribers. The picture represents Eunomia, Dice, and Irene, the Past, Present, and Future. The President of the Boyal Academy said of it to Monroe, “ I have seen a picture, painted by a young man by the name of Malbone, which no man in England could excel.” On the heights near the Athenaeum is the line of buildings (R. I. College, Hope, Manning, and University Halls, &c.), pertaining to Brown University. There is here a fine library of about 40,000 volumes, a museum of Natural History containing 10,000 specimens ; and in the portrait gallery 38 portraits, some of which are of value. Rhode Island College was founded at Warren in 1764, and removed to Provi- dence in 1770. Its buildings served as a hospital for the Franco-Anierican army during great part of the Revolution. Nicholas Brown, and others of that dis- tinguished R. I. family, having greatly aided the college, in 1804 its name -was changed to Brown University. Two thirds of the Boards of Fellow's and Trustees are required by the charter to be Baptists. The hall of the R. I. Historical Society is near the University, and contains many relics of the Indians and early settlers, together with 6,000 books, 30,000 pamphlets, and 7,000 MSS. On Hope St., N. W. of the University, are the extensive buildings, surrounded by fine grounds, of the Dexter Asylum (for the poor), near which are the ornate buildings of the Friends’ Boarding School. The Butler Hospital for the Insane has large and stately edifices, surrounded by 115 acres of ornamental grounds, on the heights which look down on the widenings of the Seekonk River BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 8. 65 (which is the boundary of Massachusetts). N. of the Butler Hospital is Swan Point Cemetery, a beautiful rural necropolis on undulating ground near the river. The Reform School and the Home for Aged Women are in the S. E. part of the city. Near the E. end of Power St., on the banks of the river, is the What Cheer Rock, on which Roger Williams first landed. N. of the Cove (near the R. R. Station), is the Rhode Island State Prison. Environs of Providence. On the N. (4J M.) is the great manufacturing town of Pawtucket.' Cranston (4 M.’ to the W.) is a busy working place, which has the Narra- gansett Trotting Park, famous in R. I. races. The mile elliptical track is entered through a fine towered gateway, and the grand stand contains 5,000 seats. . Hunt’s Mill, £ M. distant, is a favorite drive. Steamers leave Providence almost hourly in summer for the popular resorts on the Bay, and four times daily for Newport. Sassafras Point, Robin Hill, with its old fort, and Field’s Point, are passed soon after leaving the city, and then Ocean Cottage (hotel) is reached, on the E. shore. The sturdy lighthouse, in the Bay beyond, is on Pomham Rock, named after a brave sachem of the Narragansetts who was killed in battle with the English, in July, 1676. The steamer now stops at Yue de l’Eau, a large hotel on the E. shore, commanding a fine view of the Bay. Smith’s Palace is on the W. , after which comes the favorite Silver Spring House (on the E.). Pawtuxet village (5 M. from Providence, on the W. shore) has sandy shores which afford good bathing. After rounding Sabin’s Point on the E., the Cedar Grove House (30 rooms, 4 bowling alleys), with its cottage village, is seen on a high bluff. At Gaspee Point, below Pawtuxet, the British sloop-of- war “ Gaspee ” grounded while chasing a small American vessel. On the following night (June 17, 1772,) a band of Providence men surprised the “ Gaspee,” captured and landed her crew, and then burnt the vessel. Bul- lock’s Point (on the E.) and Mark Rock (on the W.), “the Natchez of Rhode Island,” the sandy Canimicut Point with its lighthouse, and Nayatt Point, on the opposite shore, are rapidly passed, and then the steamer passes out into the Bay proper. Rocky Point (Rocky Point Hotel, on the European plan, accommodating 700 guests) is soon reached. This Point is midway between Providence and Newport, and is one of the most joyous and attractive resorts in New England. A lofty tower near the hotel affords a noble * view, including Providence and Newport, Fall River, Bristol, and Warren, and many other towns, with the whole sweep of the Bay. The wild and cavernous rock-formations, the free menagerie, and the elevated railway, are some of the attractions. 250 persons are employed here through the summer ; from the hotel telegrams may be sent all over the Union. But the chief excellency of “ the crown of E 66 Route 8. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Narragansett Bay ” is the dining-room (seating 1,500 persons), where fish and clams are served np in every shape. The clam-bakes of Rocky Point are unrivalled in the world. Soon after, the steamer passes Warwick and its lighthouse, and along Prudence Island (6 M. long), near -which are the islets of Patience, Hope, and Despair. S. of Prudence Island is the widest part of the Bay, and Warwick village is visible on the W. shore. The course now lies between Rhode and Canonicut Islands, pass- ing several smaller islets, and running under the frowning walls of Fort Adams into the Harbor of Newport. * The Providence, Warren, and Bristol R. R. leaves its station at Fox Point, crosses the Seekonk River, and passes the popular resorts on the E. shore. Stations, India Point, Boston Switch, Vue de l’Eau, Drown ville, Nayatt, Barrington and Warren. The latter town (Cole’s Hotel, estab- lished in 1762) is a busy manufacturing place on the E. shore of Narra- gansett Bay. It is a nursery of sailors, and has a well-protected harbor. The Sachem Massasoit had his favorite dwelling here on his territory of Sowamset, near a spring which is still called after his name. The Warren Veteran Artillery has two cannon which were made at Strasbourg in 1760, taken from the French at Montreal, surrendered with Burgoyne at Sara- toga, and used in the Dorr Rebellion (1842). A railroad runs from Warren to Fall River. The next station, 4 M. S. of Warren, is Bristol (a small hotel). This town is a pleasant summer-resort, and is built on a high peninsula sloping to a deep, safe harbor. Three wide, grassy streets run down the penin- sula, — Water St., near the harbor ; Main St., with St. Michael’s (Epis.) Church, and two or three old colonial mansions; and High St., with the common, the poor county buildings, and a fine Cong, church, in rambling mediaeval architecture. From this broad and quiet street may be seen Mount Hope, where was “King Philip’s seat” (Arnold), or “Philip’s sty at Mount Hope ” (Palfrey). King Philip, or Metacomet, was the son of Massasoit, and chief of the Wam- panoags. After enduring various aggressions from his white neighbors, in 1671, the Plymouth people demanded that all the Indians should give up their arms, and Philip demurred at this. Then, travelling throughout New England, he formed a powerful anti-English league, and attacked the colonies in 1675. After a long war conducted with unexampled ferocity by both combatants, his power was broken by the Narragansett Fort Fight, and the repulse from Taunton. Having decimated the colonists and destroyed many of their fairest towns, he was hunted down and shot near the foot of Mount Hope, in midsummer, 1676. During the war 600 colonists were killed, and 12 towns were destroyed. In 1680 the peninsula was bought from the Government by a company of Bos- ton capitalists, who divided it into lots, and sold the land to actual settlers. In Oct., 1775, three British frigates bombarded Bristol, and in 1778 a raiding party of British soldiers plundered this town and Warren. Fine yachts are made at Bristol, also cotton goods and refined sugars, while an immense, rubber manufactory does a business of $2,000,000 a year. The Providence and Worcester R. R. runs from Providence to Worcester (Route 10); and the Hartford, Providence, and Fislikill R. R. runs W. to Hart ord and BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 8. 67 Waterbury (Route 11). A daily line of steamers runs between Providence and New York, carrying passengers and freight. After leaving Providence, the Shore Line route to New York (Route 8, continued) runs S., passing the stations Elmville, IlilVs Grove, Apponcmg, and Greenwich (Updike House, Greenwich Hotel). Greenwich is a neat village on Cowesit Bay, and is the seat of a large Methodist Seminary. In 1641, a trading-post and inn were erected here on the great Southern road, or “Pequot Path.” Its site is now occupied by the Updike House, into which many of its timbers are built. At this post the Mass, and Plymouth forces met before the Narragansett Fort Fight (1675), and hither they retreated with their wounded. Old Warwick is a few miles distant, across Cowesit Bay. Samuel Gorton, -a layman who intruded into the arena of theological polemics, was banished from Plymouth in 1637, from Newport in 1641, from Providence in 1642, from Cranston later in the same year, and then settled on Sliawomet. In 1643, 40 soldiers from Boston came here, and took Gorton and 10 colonists to Boston, where they were tried and sentenced as “ damnable heretics,” and banished from America. The Earl of Warwick sent him back to Shawomet (which he named Warwick), and under that nobleman’s protection he spent the remainder of his life in launching anathematic treatises at Massachusetts and R. I., among which were “ Simplicities Defence against Seven-Headed Policy,” “Antidote against Pharasaic Teachers,” &c. In 1652, the clerk of this unfortunate settle- ment was disfranchised on seven charges : first, for calling the officers of the town rogues and thieves ; second, for calling all the town rogues and thieves ; third, for threatening to kill all the mares in town. In 1676, the place was at- tacked and burnt. Nathaniel Greene was born at Warwick, in 1742. He led the R. I. brigade to Cambridge in 1775, commanded the left wing, and took the guns at Trenton, saved the army at the Battle of the Brandywine, and led a brigade at German- town, Monmouth, and Newport. In 1780, he commanded the shattered Army of the South in its celebrated retreat across South and North Carolina into Virginia, and fought the drawn battle at Guilford C. II. In April, 1781, he was badly de- feated by Lord Rawdon, at Hobkirk’s Hill, and was repulsed from Fort 96, but in September he won the sanguinary and decisive battle of Eutaw Springs, which ruined the British hopes in the South. Congress presented him with a medal, a British standard, and two captured cannon, and the State of Georgia gave him a fine plantation near Savannah, where he resided until his death. George S. Greene, born at Warwick in 1S01, commanded a division at Antietam, Chancellorsville, and Gettysburg ; and in N. and S. Carolina during the rest of the war. Silas Casey, born at E. Greenwich in 1807, commanded a division of the Army of the Potomac, and was greatly distinguished in the sanguinary battle of Fair Oaks, May 31, 1862. The celebrated summer resort at Rocky Point is not far from Old Warwick. Station Wickford. The village ( Washington Hotel), a quaint and quiet old place, is on a broad bay, and is reached by a branch railroad in 2J M. (connecting with a steamer to Newport daily). In the edge of the village is a curious square Episcopal church, which was built in 1706, and has been long deserted. Station Kingston, The village ( Kingston House) is on the heights, 2 M. E. of the station, and contains the county buildings of Washington Co. 9 M. from the station (carriages in waiting) is the fashionable sea- side resort at Narragansett Pier. 68 Route 8. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Hotels. * Tower Hill House, a noble building on Narragansett Heights, which overlook the whole Bay, is 3 M. from the shore (horse-cars) ; Delavan House ; Continental House ; Maxson, Hazard, Ocean, Metatoxet, Sea-View, Elmwood, Narragansett, Matthewson, Atlantic, Atwood, Revere, Mount Hope, and others. Most of these hotels accommodate 60-80 guests, and charge $12 -$18.00 a week. The Tower Hill, Atwood, and two or three others, are larger and more ex- pensive. Music, Lectures, &c., in Canonchet Hall. A handsome Episcopal church, of stone, has recently been built. Narragansett Pier P. O. receives two mails daily. Steamers leave daily for Newport and Providence. In 1856, a family from Philadelphia came here, and boarded at a farm- house near the beach. The next year they returned with some friends, and the farm was called the Narragansett Boarding-House. Summer visitors increased, until in 1867, the Atlantic (80 guests), the Atwood (175 guests), and the Revere (50 guests) Houses were built. Other hotels were rapidly built, and in 1871, the Continental, Maxson, Mt. Hope, and Tower Hill Houses were finished. The Beach affords fine riding and bathing (light surf), and many fish are caught from the rocks. Narragansett is said to be more quiet and un- assuming than Newport, and its usual routine is bathing in the morning (when 3-400 persons may be seen in the surf), and croquet in the after- noon. Below the Pier is a mass of rocks, beyond which stretches the long line of Wolcott’s Beach. The noble and richly decorated mansion of the Sprague family is near the cluster of hotels. Every visitor should go to Narragansett Heights (3 M.), where the palatial Tower Hill Hotel stands on its 800-acre plateau, near Silver Lake, 400 ft. above the Bay. The* view is fine, extending over Newport and 10-12 villages, and cov- ering a horizon-line of 100 M. The Ocean, the Bay, Point Judith, and the lakes of S. Kingstown, are all visible. 4-6 M. W. of the Pier is Peacedale, with a fine stone church, and a large manufactory of woollen shawls. The road running S. W. from Peacedale, through Wakefield, passes the remains of the old Potter Palace, and the birthplace of Commodore Perry. John Potter was a magnate of the middle of the 18th century, who built here in Narragansett a fine mansion, richly frescoed throughout, surrounded by gar- dens, and kept by 100 slaves, where he used to receive company in baronial style. At and before this time large Quaker settlements were scattered through the district, and three of their deserted churches still remain in this town. Oliver Hazard Perry was born in 1785, of an old aristocratic family of Narra- gansett. He served as a midshipman in the Tripolitan War, and was put in com- mand of the squadron on Lake Erie, at whose head, Sept. 10, 1813, he won a bril- liant victory, and captured the entire British fleet. He died of yellow fever, at Trinidad, in 1819. His brother, Commodore M. C. Perry, born at Newport, 1794, was an active naval officer, chiefly distinguished for leading the Japan expedition in 1852-4, when he concluded an important treaty with that empire. Commodore Perry’s cousin, Stephen Champlin, Commodore in the U. S. Navy, was born here in 1789. He fired the first and last shots at the battle of Lake Erie, where he commanded the “Scorpion,” in Perry’s squadron. His services in the War of 1812 were important. G. C. Stuart, the celebrated portrait-painter, was born in this town in 1754. Most of the time from 1772 to 1793 he spent in London and Paris, and kept his studio at Boston, 1806-28. His portraits of Washington and other founders of BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 8. 69 the Republic are the best in existence, and show skill of the highest order in por- trait-painting. I V M. from the Perry farm is the Potter Place, E. of which is the long, island- studded lagoon known as Point Judith Pond, abounding in fish. Point Judith, is the site of an important lighthouse. The legend runs, that far back in the colonia^ days, a storm-tossed vessel was driven in towards the Narragansett shore. The captain, an ancient mariner, was at the wheel, watchful amid the perils of an unknown coast, when his bright- eyed daughter, Judith, called out to him, “Land, father ! I see the land ! ” His dim eyes could not discern the distant shore, and he shouted, “Where away? Point, Judith, point!” She did point, and he changed his course, and left the surf-whitened cape far away under lee ; and when he reached port, the story of the fearless girl pointing out the danger from the storm-swept deck was told often and again among the sailors, so that the old sea-captains, when they passed this cape thereafter, repeated the story, and gave her name to the place. During much of the year 1778, the Count D’Estaing’s fleet of 16 vessels, with 933 cannon, was stretched across the Bay from Point Judith, and maintained an efficient blockade of the British forces at Newport. Admiral Lord Howe attacked D’Estaing with a large squadron, and after an indecisive battle and a severe storm, both fleets were forced to leave the Bay and refit. This town of S. Kingstown is the largest in the State, covering over 76 square M. N. W. of Kingston, near the Exeter line, on a high, rocky hill, are the ruins of the Indian “ Queen’s Fort.” Part of the stone-wall remains, also a rock-chamber called the Queen’s Bedroom, where many arrows have been found. On a hill in the great pine and cedar swamp near Worden’s Pond (S. W. of Kingston) are the scanty remains of the Narragansett Fort (guide necessary, who can sometimes be obtained at the farm-houses on the edge of the swamp). At the time of the landing of the Pilgrims, the Narragansett Indians, unwasted by pestilence, ruled the E. There were 30,000 souls in this nation (Brinley), or according to Roger Williams, “12 towns within 20 M., with 5,000 warriors.” Gookin (1674) calls them an “active, laborious, and ingenious people,” and they ■were extensively engaged in trade and manufacture, supplying nearly all the New England tribes with pipes, pots, and wampum jewelry and coin. Their territory stretched from Wickford nearly to Westerly, with its largest villages in the vicin- ity (favorable for fishing or agriculture) of the great ponds in S. Kingstown. In their simple theology they looked forward to some mystic realms in the far S. W., where the gods and pure spirits dwelt, while the souls of murderers, thieves, and liars are doomed to wander abroad. They fought frequently with the Mohegans and Pequots, but lived more peaceably with the Massachusetts, which was the name they (living in a flat country) applied* to the dwellers at Neponset, Milton, and Canton. It is from Massa (many) and Waschoe (mountains), and means the people of the many mountains (the high blue hills of Milton). Canonicus and Miantonomoh ruled from about 1600 to 1643 ; the former being “ a wise and peace- I able prince” (Roger Williams), and the latter a “brave and magnanimous chief,” who gave lands freely to the R. I. colonists. But the unvarying friendship be- tween the settlers and this great tribe was ended in 1675, when the fiery eloquence > and crafty subtlety of King Philip of the Wampanoags induced them to enter the anti-English confederation of the New England tribes. The United Colonies took prompt action, and assembled 1,000 men under Gen. Winslow, on the verge of the tribal territory. Many of the Indians’were campaigning with King Philip ; many fled to the N. W. ; and the rest abandoned their villages and took refuge in the ancient fortress of the tribe in the swamp near Worden’s Pond. After a long f march through the snow in Dec., 1675, the colonial troops came in sight of the hill, covered with a system of embankments, palisades, and abatis, and defended by the flower of the Narragansetts. The Massachusetts men, in the van, dashed , into the Fort through an enfiladed entrance, and after a furious struggle, being 70 Route $. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. unsupported, they were driven out with heavy loss. The whole force now having arrived, a double attack was made ; the troops of Connecticut stormed the gate, and, while the attention of the whole Indian garrison was centred on that point, the Plymouth companies broke through the abatis and palisades on the other side, and attacked them in the rear. A bitter combat ensued, the Indians retir- ing to their wigwams and repulsing every attack of the colonials, who now held the walls. Fire was now applied. to the wigwams, and spread rapidly, amid a scene of unutterable confusion and carnage. A band of chosen warriors dashed forth and cleared a way and covered the retreat of full 3,000 people, after which the colonials were left in full possession, having lost 80 men killed and 150 wounded. 300 warriors were killed, and 600 prisoners taken, of whom most of the fighting men were either shot on Boston Common, died on Deer Island, or were sold into slavery. The tribe was annihilated. Nearly all the colonial captains were shot, and a considerable proportion of the wounded, borne through a road- less country in midwinter, scores of miles to the settlements, died on the way home. “The bitter cold, the tarled swamp, the tedious march, the strong fort, the numerous and stubborn enemy they contended with for their God, King, and country, be their trophies over death.” — Conn. Legislature on “those dead in the Fort Fight in Narragansett.” In 10 - 12 min. after leaving Kingston Station, the train passes through the swamp where the battle took place. The next station is Carolina , with large woollen mills, 3 - 4 M. S. of which is a reservation, with church and school-house, where lives the scanty remnant of the Narragansett tribe. Stations, Richmond Switch , Charlestown, Westerly (Dixon House, $3.00 a clay). In 1665, a division of the Newport church moved to Westerly, and, in 1671, embraced the tenets of the Seventh Day Baptists, so if the traveller chances to be here on Saturday, he will find but little business going on, and the church bells ringing. Westerly is noted for its extensive manufactures, and, among other things, turns out every year 442 miles of flannel and 1031 miles of cotton and woollen cloths. Many summer visitors stop at the elegant Dixon House, and avail themselves of the steamer which runs semi-daily down the Pawcatuck Biver to Watch Hill Point. Hotels. — * Ocean House, on a far-viewing hill; Watch Hill House, 30-40 years old, the first hotel here ; Larkin House, near the lighthouse ; Atlantic House, Dickens, Bay View, and Plimpton Houses. There is but little difference in these hotels, and the prices are somewhat less than those at Narragansett Pier. Steamers in summer run from Westerly to Watch Hill twice daily ; from Stonington 4-5 times daily ; from New London, daily ; and from Norwich, touch- ing at New London and Mystic, daily. Watch Hill Point, the S. W. extremity of R. I., is a high, bold promon- tory, from which the sandy Narragansett Beach runs E., while to the W. Napatree Beach, a narrow strip of sand, runs out to Sandy Point. From the top of the hill a good sea view is obtained, with Block Island to the S. E., Fisher’s Island to the S. W., and the town of Stonington close at hand in the W. From its fine views, excellent bathing beaches, and quiet and unpretentious hotels, this has become a favorite summer resort. In August, 1872, the passenger steamer “ Metis,” bound from New BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 8. 71 York to Providence, was run into by another vessel off this point. She sank in deep water, in the storm and night, and 25 or more of her passen- gers were lost. Most of the corpses, together with the deck of the vessel, were thrown up on Watch Hill Beach. After Westerly comes Stonington (the * Wadawanuck House is a large summer hotel, commanding a line water- view. It accommodates 140 guests, and charges $ 4. 50 a day ; large reduction for board by the season. There are one or two smaller houses here). This district (Pavvcatuck) was claimed by Mass, as hers in right of “joint con- quest,” after the defeat of the Pequods, but was settled in 1649 from Connecticut. In 1801 it became a borough, about which time President Dwight wrote that “ Ston- ington and all its vicinity suffers in religion from the nearness of R. I.” Aug. 9, 1814, the borough was attacked by the Ramilies, 74 ; the Pactolus, 38 ; and several other British vessels, which bombarded it for three days, throwing 60 tons of iron into it. Four attempts to land were repulsed with grapeshot, with heavy loss, and the Dispatch, 22, was seriously injured and driven off by a 3-gun battery on the point. The town was deserted by its people, and 50 soldiers were scattered through it to put out the fires. * Stonington is built on a narrow, rocky point, with quiet streets, embel- lished here and there by iron relics of 1814. Steamers from Stonington to Watch Hill 6 times daily in summer (25c.). The Stonington Line of steamers (to New York) has fine boats which leave this port on the arrival of the steamboat train from Boston (9-10 P. M.), and arrive at New York early in the morning. This is one of the four great routes to New York, the others being the Fall River Steamboat Line, the Shore Line R. R., and the R. R. route via Springfield and Hartford. A new line, via Willimantic and New Haven, is nearly ready for travel. A line of packets has heretofore run from Stonington to Block Island, and a daily steamer is promised for the summer of 1873. Block Island (Mitchell House, Spring House) was named for Adrian Block, the Dutch discoverer, and was called by the Indians Manisees (the isle of the little god). The natives made most of the wampum (money) for the interior tribes. In 1636, they captured a Boston vessel near the island, and killed the crew, shortly after which a Conn, coaster ran down on her, raking the decks with musketry. 11 Indians jumped overboard and were drowned, but the rest took refuge in the hold. The coaster then towed her many leagues to sea, and, having removed her sails, let her go, in a fearful storm. To avenge the murder of the Boston sailors. Gov. Endicott (who had cut out the cross from the British flag with his rapier as “savoring of Popery”) campaigned on Block Island under the crossless flag and destroyed 2 large villages. The island sent 60 ft. of wampum to Boston for tribute, in 1638, and. in 1661 an English settlement was made here, which was incorporated in 1672 as New Shoreham, and nearly destroyed by a raid from French vessels in 1690. Block Island is 8 M. long by from 2-4 M. wide, and is nearly cut in two by a great salt-water pond, S. of which is the thin village of New Shoreham, with 2 Baptist churches. There are many abrupt and un- covered hills, used for grazing. The men are mostly employed in fishing, and are of a simple, sturdy, and primitive race. The island belongs to R. I., and has about 1300 inhabitants, whose number is slowly decreas- ing. After Stonington comes the busy, ship-building village of Mystic (Hoxie House). 72 RouteS. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Near Mystic, on the N., is Pequot Hill, which was attacked May 26th, 1637, by Mason, who had marched from Narragansett with 90 Englishmen, and 460 Mohe- gans and Narragansetts, under the Sachems Uncas and Miantonomoh. On arriving before the Fort, the Indian allies were afraid to attack, and drew off, whereupon the colonial soldiers prepared to do the work alone, and knelt down in prayer. (The Sachem Wequash, the guide of the forces, was amazed at this sight, and when he understood it, he became impressed and converted, and preached throughout New England until he sealed his faith by a glorious mar- tyrdom.) The English now moved steadily to the assault, and, favored by the darkness, succeeded in getting inside the palisades, but they were soon over- whelmed by vastly superior numbers, and fell back, after setting fire to the wig- wams. “The greatness and violence of the fire, the flashing and roaring of the arms, the shrieks and yells of men, women, and children within the Fort, and the shoutings of Indians without, just at the dawning of the morning, exhibited a grand and awful scene. The Narragansetts, Mohegans, and colonials surrounded the hill and shot down the fugitives. 600 Pequots were shot or burnt on this dreadful morning, which was a death-blow to the tribe. “It was a fearful sight to see them frying in the fire, and the streams of blood quenching the same, and horrible was the stink and scent thereof ; but the victory seemed a sweet sacri- fice, and they gave the praise thereof to God.” Cotton Mather. 4 M. from Pequot Hill (half-way to New London) is Fort Hill, where Sassacus, sachem of the Pequots, had his royal fortress. On hearing of the attack of Mason, the chief sent 300 of his best warriors, who caused the Indo-colonial forces great loss in their retreat. But meanwhile those who had remained in the fort revolted, and Sassacus, with his court and chiefs, was forced to flee to the Hudson River, whence they never returned, and the tribal organization was blotted out by the colonies, who gave for slaves to the friendly tribes those remaining of the dreaded Pequots or “ Destroyers.” * There is a noble view from Fort Hill (4 M. E. of New London) which embraces parts of 15 towns, 4 counties, 3 States, 20 islands, 7 lighthouses, with New London, Stonington, Fort Griswold, and Fisher’s Island Sound. Groton is a very hilly township, and has but little good soil (in the river valley). In 1832, 40 Pequots were living here on a reservation, and still heartily hating the Narragansetts. Silas Deane, an early American diplomatist, who died in poverty and sorrow in a strange land, after hav- ing made successful negotiations with France, &c., was a native of Gro- ton. Between 1812 and 1819, 500,000 yards of cotton cloth were woven at home by women with hand-looms. Mystic Island, a quiet summer resort, is off the mouth of the river. After passing the station of Groton , the cars are ferried across the Thames River to New London (Metropolitan House, $2.50. A new and elegant hotel is to be opened here in the summer of 1873). New London is a city of 9,576 inhabitants, on a granite-strewn declivity facing S. E. , on a fine harbor, 3 M. long and 30 ft. deep. This was formerly known as Pequot Harbor, and was raided successively by Mason, Endicott, and Underhill, and was settled by John Winthrop, Jr., in 1645. In 1658 the Connecticut Assembly resolved, “Whereas, this court considering - One authority says that Pequots means “ Gray Foxes.” BOSTON TO NEW YORK. RouteS. 73 that there hath yet no place in any of the colonies been named in honor of the city of London, there being a new jdace, within this jurisdiction of Connecticut settled upon that fair river Mohegan in the Pequot country, being an excellent harbor, and a fit and convenient place for future trade, it being also the only place in these parts which the English possessed by conquest, and that upon a very just war, upon that great and warlike people, the Pequots, we, therefore, that we might thereby leave to posterity that we memory of that renowned city of Lon- don, from whence we had our transportation, have thought fit, in honor to 'that famous city, to call the said plantation, New London.” In 1698, the pirate Capt. Kidd cruised along these shores, and buried on Gardiner’s Island 75 ounces of gold, 633 ounces of silver, and a large lot of precious stones, which were recov- ered by the Earl of Bellomont, governor at Boston, in 1699. During the Revolu- tion, the navy of Conn., consisting of 26 vessels, made New London its chief port ; and here, in 1776, were landed the governor, officers, and plunder from New Providence (of the Bahamas), which had been captured by an American fleet. Sept. 5, 1781, the renegade raider Benedict Arnold appeared off the town with a fleet and a large force of British troops, and having taken Fort Trumbull he plundered and burnt New London. At the same time a strong detachment made an attack on Fort Griswold (across the river), which was defended by Col. Led- yard with 150 militia-men. The sharp fire of the Americans repulsed the first at- tack, but a bayonet-charge ensued, which carried the enemy into the fort. The British commander was killed on the rampart, and the Tory Capt. Bloomfield (from New Jersey) took his place. As he shouted, “Who commands this Fort?” Col. Ledyard gave him his sword, saying, “ I did command, sir ; but you do now.” The infamous renegade ran Ledyard through with his own sword, where- upon a general massacre ensued, and 70 Americans were killed and 30 wounded after the surrender. In storming the Fort the British lost 191 men. An excursion should be made to Groton heights, where are the remains of old Fort Griswold, near which is a business-like 20-gun battery, in ad- mirable order, which protects the channel. Within stone’s-throw of the fading ramparts of the old Fort is a Monument to the massacred militia, — a noble granite shaft, 127 ft. high, and 26 ft. square at the base, on which is inscribed,