II B RAHY OF THE UN IVLR.SITY OF ILLINOIS 973.5231 V58w cop. 2 jjgjNOTSHTSTWr Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign http://www.archive.org/details/warondetroitchroOOverc CJje HafceStbe Classics NUMBER TITLE YEAR 1. The Autobiography of Benjamin Franklin. . . . 1903 2. Inaugural Addresses of the Presidents of the United States from Washington to Lincoln.. 1904 3. Inaugural Addresses of the Presidents of the United States from Johnson to Roosevelt. . . 1905 4. Fruits of Solitude by William Penn 1906 5. Memorable American Speeches I. The Colonial Period 1907 6. Memorable American Speeches II. Democracy and Nationality 1908 7. Memorable American Speeches III. Slavery 1909 8. Memorable American Speeches IV. Secession, War, Reconstruction 1910 9. The Autobiography of Gurdon Saltonstall Hub- bard 1911 10. Reminiscences of Early Chicago 1912 11. Reminiscences of Chicago During the Forties and Fifties 1913 12. Reminiscences of Chicago During the Civil War 1914 13. Reminiscences of Chicago During the Great Fire 1915 14. Life of Black Hawk 1916 15. The Indian Captivity of O. M. Spencer 1917 16. Pictures of Illinois One Hundred Years Ago. . . 1918 17. A Woman's Story of Pioneer Illinois by Chris- tiana Holmes Tillson 1919 18. The Conquest of the Illinois by George Rogers Clark 1920 19. Alexander Henry's Travels and Adventures in the Years 1760-1776 1921 20. John Long's Voyages and Travels in the Years 1768-1788 1922 21. Adventures of the First Settlers on the Oregon or Columbia River by Alexander Ross 1923 22. The Fur Hunters of the Far West by Alexander Ross 1924 23. The Southwestern Expedition of Zebulon M. Pike 1925 24. Commerce of the Prairies by Josiah Gregg. . . . 1926 25. Death Valley in '49 by William L. Manly 1927 26. Bidwell's Echoes of the Past — Steele's In Camp and Cabin 1928 27. Kendall's Texan Santa Fe Expedition 1929 28. Pattie's Personal Narrative 1930 29. Alexander Mackenzie's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean in 1793 1931 30. Wau-Bun, The "Early Day" in the North-West by Mrs. John H. Kinzie 1932 31. Forty Years a Fur Trader by Charles Larpenteur 1933 32. Narrative of the Adventures of Zenas Leonard 1934 33. Kit Carson's Autobiography 1935 34. A True Picture of Emigration by Rebecca Burlend 1936 35. The Bark Covered House by William Nowlin. 1937 36. The Border and the Buffalo by John R. Cook. 1938 37. Vanished Arizona by Martha Summerhaycs. . 1939 38. War on the Detroit by Thomas Vercheres de Boucherville and James Foster 1940 Wf)t ILakt&ibt Classic* War on the Detroit The Chronicles of Thomas Vercheres de Boucherville and The Capitulation by an Ohio Volunteer EDITED BY Milo Milton Quaife SECRETARY OF THE BURTON HISTORICAL COLLECTION CHICAGO R. R. Donnelley & Sons Co. Christmas, 1940 ? 7 3 . S& 3 I $trf»ltssf)er's; preface UNDER the title of The Battle of Detroit, we reprint the Journal of Thomas Vercheres de Boucherville and "The Capitulation" by James Foster as the con- tent of this year's volume of The Lakeside Classics. We do so somewhat apologetically, as we realize that by the time this little book reaches the reader, he will be thoroughly surfeited with war literature, but the selec- tion of the material was made, the editing finished, and the type set before the collapse of the French Army, and it was too late to substitute a story of a more peaceful phase of early Western history. The Battle of Detroit is interesting as bring- ing into sharp contrasts war as fought in America in 1812 and the present holocaust of Europe. Apropos the casualness of the War of 1 8 12, we quote a paragraph from a sales catalogue of war books: "The War of 1812 was fought under the most peculiar circumstances of any military venture in our history. In the first place, the British Cabinet on June 1, 18 12 had conceded all but one American claim. The war, ^ubUsfbtt'ti -preface however, had been declared and was carried on regard- less. In the second place, there was some question as to whom we should be fighting. France had offended as grievously as England and in the East particularly, Napoleon was regarded as the great menace to world peace. In the third place, the war was ostensibly fought to protect New England Maritime Rights but only the South and West were enthusiastic. New Eng- land was against it from the start. The subject of impressment which brought on the war was not men- tioned in the Peace Treaty, and finally, its greatest battle at New Orleans which made Jackson a popular hero was fought after Peace had been concluded." Gen. Hull, with headquarters at Detroit, was in command of all military stations throughout the West, which included Fort Dearborn at Chicago. Unfortunately, Gen. Hull, who had served with credit in the American Revolution, had grown old and timid and was entirely lacking in the vigor and daring which was so essential to leader- ship on the western frontier. Fort Detroit was hundreds of miles out in the wilderness and was surrounded by thousands of savages to whom the British were paying $8.00 to $12.00 apiece for American scalps. From what happened in Detroit, as depicted in this volume, we can easily judge that Gen. Hull was thoroughly scared. Mackinac had fallen into the hands of the British, and the situation at Fort Dearborn seemed to be even more precarious than that at Detroit. vi PublfeJjet'si preface Accordingly, Hull sent a message by Win- nemeg, a friendly Potawatomi chief, to Capt. Heald announcing the declaration of war with Great Britain and the fall of Mackinac, and ordering the evacuation of Fort Dear- born, if practical, and retirement to Fort Wayne. Unfortunately, the message was interpreted by Capt. Heald as a positive order to evacuate and he refused to be in- fluenced by the arguments and protests of his two fellow officers and Chief Winnemeg. There was ample ammunition and food to withstand a long siege and Winnemeg reports that the troops, with their women and chil- dren, would surely be attacked by the Pota- watomis. On August 15, 1812, Fort Dearborn was abandoned and the march started along the shore of Lake Michigan, and at a point two mile's south of the Fort, the Indians attacked and most of the soldiers, women, and children were massacred. Thus, due to the timidity of Gen. Hull and the bullheaded- ness of Capt. Heald, Chicago is indebted to the only military drama in its history. It is our good fortune that Dr. Quaife called our attention to the English transla- tion of the Journal of Thomas Vercheres de Boucherville, which had lain for several years on the shelves of the Burton Historical Collection. It had been published in its vii ItablteJjer'* preface original French as a volume of The Anti- quarian and Numismatic Society of Mont- real, and we are beholden to the officers of that Society for their courtesy in giving us permission to print the English translation. As the Vercheres Journal is little known by the collectors of Americana, we believe it will be an important addition to The Lake- side Classics. The Capitulation by an "Ohio Volunteer" is also a rare item of Americana. Dr. Quaife expresses doubt as to whether James Foster was the author and also suspects that the author, whoever he was, writing in the first person, did not himself experience some of the events which he described. Perhaps the author was guilty of some plagiarism, but we must credit Foster with the fact that he never claimed to be the author, as his name only appears as the owner of the copyright, and whether he or some other "Ohio Volun- teer" told the story, it is well told and gives us a realistic picture of the "Rabble in Arms" during the first year of the War of 1812. The Publishers. Christmas, 1940. Vlll Contents! CHAPTER PAGE Historical Introduction xiii Journal of Thomas Vercheres de Boucherville 3 The Capitulation . . 179 Index 323 IX THE NORTHWEST IN Historical Introduction LAKE ST. CLAIR THE DETROIT FRONT IN THE WAR OF 1812 Adapted from a contemporary map drawn by a British army engineer. iMsitortcal Sntrobuctton WE pen these lines in mid-May, 1940; before they meet the reader's eye they will have passed into history. Through our open window may be seen the prodigal bloom of the lovely magnolias, the fresh hues of new-leaved maples and elms, green-carpeted lawns, jewelled with beds of yellow daffodils and flaming tulips. Bare- headed college youths stroll past, an old man, feeble and bent with age, a young mother leading a child, in the street a steady procession of vehicles richer than King Midas ever knew. The entire scene is charged with eager, radiant life. So it might have been in the town of Detroit in May, 18 12. No motor cars or cement-paved streets then met the eye, of course, but children and mothers, youths and old men went their accustomed ways; then, as now, the majestic river slipped past the town, hurrying to its union with the ocean in the distant Gulf of St. Lawrence. Then, as now, the mid-May sun shed its brilliance over the peaceful land, maples and elms xiii ^tetorical Sntrobuctton donned anew their robes of summer verdure, while peach and apple and cherry were prodigal of their fragrant bloom. But over the peaceful scene a terrible menace impended. Across the sea, even as in 1940, a world-shaking conflict was going on. Although America desired to have no part in it, our national rights and our peace- ful commerce were assailed with fine im- partiality by both warring nations. Presi- dent Jefferson, the greatest exponent of pacifism in our history, strove earnestly to promote the rule of sweet reason in a world where brute force alone was respected, and toward the end longed only to terminate his administration before the deluge arrived. Thus it was reserved for his political heir, President Madison, to pilot the country through a three-year war. With the cheerful unconcern which habitually characterizes America in her international relations, with no real military machine and with practically no effort to provide one, we declared war in 18 12 upon the greatest military power in the world. If Denmark in the spring of 1940 had declared war upon Germany and confidently anticipated romping into Berlin in a few weeks' time, the exhibition of national folly suggested would have been scarcely more astounding. As it turned out, such factors xiv ^fetortcal Snttobuctton as our distance from Europe and the pre- occupation of Great Britain with the Na- poleonic struggle preserved America from the national defeat and dismemberment we had so rashly invited. Saved by a hairs- breadth from such a fate, our political lead- ers, with cheerful inconstancy of memory, almost immediately began to beat the tom- toms on the glories of America's achieve- ment in the war; with such success that even today but few Americans have any real knowledge of the disgraceful conduct of our armies in the War of 1812, while one of the few historical concepts which practically all Americans entertain is the fantastic untruth that on the sea our navy was brilliantly triumphant. The narratives selected for this volume of the Lakeside Classics Series offer much of instruction and something of entertainment to the reader who cares to know the truth about the War of 18 12. The war began with the Detroit campaign of General Hull, and its first blood was shed in one of the tiny skirmishes at the River Canard, where the highway from Windsor to Amherstburg crosses this unimpressive stream. The Hull campaign, therefore, initiated the three-year period of campaigns and marching armies which with but infrequent exceptions con- xv Historical introduction stituted for America one continuous night- mare of military ineptitude and impotence. General Upton has best summarized the painful story in sentences cutting as the sur- geon's knife. 1 For the entire war, he shows that the United States enlisted 527,000 soldiers, exceeding in number the entire population, of both sexes and all ages, of Canada. Although Henry Clay had affirmed that Kentucky alone could conquer Canada in a few weeks' time, the close of the war found the United States invaded on both its borders, with imminent danger that New England would leave the Union and that much more of the territory won by the Treaty of 1783 would be lost to the United States. As for the Northwest, the theater of action of the narratives we reprint, Upton states the results in these words: The cost of dispersing the 800 British regulars, who from first to last had made prisoners of Hull's army at Detroit, let loose the northwestern Indians, de- feated and captured Winchester's command at French- town, besieged the Northwestern army at Fort Meigs, and then invaded Ohio, . . . teaches a lesson well worth the attention of any statesman or financier. Not counting the hastily organized and half-filled regiments of regulars sent to the West, the records of the Adjutant General's office show that about 50,000 1 Emory Upton, The Military Policy of the United States (Washington, 1912), especially chaps. IX-XII. xvi JfMgtortcal introduction militia were called out in 1812 and 18 13, for the states of Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Pennsylvania and Virginia for service against Proctor's army. As the ultimate fate of the Scandinavian countries in the war of 1940 depends upon the final issue of the war between Germany and her allied foe, so in 18 12 the fate of Fort Dearborn and other points in the Northwest was determined by the issue of the cam- paigns on the Detroit frontier. The stories which our authors set forth, therefore, are an intimate part of the history of Chicagoland. But the journal of Thomas Vercheres de Boucherville is much more than this. He be- longed to a prominent family of Quebec. In early manhood he entered upon the fur trade of the Far Northwest and after a year of service here he gained a new foothold in the commercial world as a junior clerk in a mercantile establishment of Toronto (then called York). By winning the confidence of his employer he advanced to the status of trusted agent in charge of the latter's business at Amherstburg, and presently to the ownership and conduct of his own business there. When the opening storm of war struck the Detroit River area in the summer of 18 12, he naturally volunteered in support of his country's cause. His old-age narration of the experiences he underwent, xvii Historical 3utrobuctiou although necessarily inaccurate in certain matters of detail, reproduces admirably the point of view of a French-Canadian partici- pant in the struggles he describes. For vividness of narration and ability to bring back the scenes described to lifelike reality, his story fairly rivals the well-known recital of Major John Richardson in his War of 1812. Unlike the latter narrative, however, that of Vercheres remained unpublished for almost a century after the occurrence of the events it describes. Then it was printed in Volume III of The Canadian Antiquarian and Numismatic Journal at Montreal. The Journal itself, however, is a relatively ob- scure publication, and Vercheres' story seems never to have attracted the attention of either Canadian or American historians. Its present publication in English transla- tion in one of the Lakeside Classics volumes should serve to bring to its author the measure of popular interest and of scholarly appreciation which hitherto has been denied him. A few words of explanation concerning the way the editorial task has been performed are in order at this point. The translation of the narrative into English was made some years ago by Mrs. L. Oughtred Woltz, archivist of the Burton Historical Collection. xviii ^tetortcal Sntrobuction She was a competent scholar, but she per- formed her task with no thought of eventual publication in mind. Although the transla- tion we present is basically her work, the present Editor has revised it to such an ex- tent that it would not be fair either to Mrs. Woltz or to the reader to hold her respon- sible for it. Since there can be no pretense of an exact translation, we have aimed throughout at presenting the author's evi- dent meaning, without caring or pretending to supply a precise or literal rendering of his words. We have also corrected numerous individual mistakes, having to do with such details as proper names, statements of dates or distances, etc. Whenever the propriety of exercising such editorial discretion has seemed at all in doubt we have retained the author's statements, calling attention, on occasion, to their inaccuracy in an ex- planatory footnote. It should afford added interest to the reader of Vercheres' narrative if along with it he can peruse the story of a soldier who fought in the opposing army. For this reason we reprint the now rare little volume en- titled The Capitulation^ or a History of the Expedition Conducted by William Hull, Brigadier-General of the Northwestern Army, originally published at Chillicothe in the xix J^tetorical 3ftttrobuctton autumn of 1812. The author modestly con- ceals his identity under the pseudonym of "An Ohio Volunteer," and our examination of the narrative suggests that he may have had good reasons for his shyness. Librarians generally have followed the lead of Peter G. Thomson, the Ohio bibliographer of half a century ago, in naming James Foster as the author. Their reason for doing so lies in the fact that on October 23, 18 12, James Foster appeared before the clerk of the U. S. Dis- trict Court of Ohio and applied for a copy- right on the book, "whereof he claims as proprietor." That he was also its author is an easy, although by no means necessary, assumption. Our own efforts either to verify or disprove it have been without positive result, yet they have elicited certain frag- mentary data which should prove of some interest to the reader. The narrative purports to be a first-hand relation of the observations and experiences of the writer, and in the preface we are di- rectly informed that "while in the State of Ohio" he enlisted in a company which was captured at Detroit at the time of Hull's surrender, and that on his return to "this place" — presumably Chillicothe — he yielded to the persuasions of his friends that he write a history of the campaign. xx Historical 3fotrotruction All of this is commonplace enough, even to the affected modesty which induces a writer to publish a book merely in response to the solicitations of his friends; but certain other aspects of the situation are of less usual oc- currence. For example, a soldier is ordinarily proud of his military organization, much as a student is proud of his college connection. Both this reason and the considerations of clarity and good faith unite to lead a soldier, relating his experiences, to identify his military unit and his own place in it. Yet the "Ohio Volunteer/' in addition to con- cealing his name, conceals, also, all knowl- edge of the identity of the unit in which he served. The reasons for such shyness be- come the more intriguing when we note that — assuming the validity of the statements in the preface — his identity was known to his friends, and apparently to the members of the army in general. Insofar as the present Editor's knowledge goes, The Capitulation was the first "history" of the Hull campaign to be committed to print. The Ohio soldiers who marched with Hull to Detroit in the summer of 1812 commonly returned to their homes about the beginning of September. All America at the moment was avid for news of the campaign, and the book has all the earmarks of a compilation hastily thrown xxi historical Hfotrobuction together with the object of capitalizing upon this current popular interest. Apart from a generous offering of military orders and other contemporary public documents, the 84-page narrative contains the supposedly personal recital of the author's observations and experiences. Our admiration for the perspicuity displayed therein is not lessened by the discovery that a large proportion of the recital has been copied directly from the journal of another "Ohio Volunteer," Robert Lucas. Lucas was an intelligent and enter- prising officer under Hull, who subsequently served as Governor both of Ohio and of Iowa Territory. His journal of the campaign was not published until 1906, when the State Historical Society of Iowa brought it out; but it had been utilized by Lewis Cass as the basis of his diatribe against General Hull which proved a powerful factor in procuring the latter's court martial and death sentence; and it was evidently placed at the disposal of our author, the extent of whose copying will be evident to any reader who takes the trouble to compare the two narratives. Who then was the author, and why did he not record his own observations instead of appropriating those of another? The possi- bility — despite the statements in the preface — that he was a professional journalist or xxii Historical Snttobuttion hack-writer who did not himself participate in the campaign he describes, cannot be ignored. Concerning James Foster, the pu- tative author of the book, we have found only a little information. The Roster of Ohio Soldiers in the War of 1812^ belatedly published by the State of Ohio in 1916, lists among the more than 26,000 soldiers carried on the army muster rolls the name of James Foster, sergeant in Captain William Keys' company. Although the compiler of the volume identifies this as "probably from Ross County," we know from other sources that Captain Keys was a pioneer settler and long a prominent citizen of Highland County, and it is a fair presumption that the company he led to Detroit in 18 12 came from this county. But one searches the pub- lished history of Highland County in vain for any mention of James Foster, although he may have been an unnamed member of the clan of five Foster brothers who were numbered among the pioneer settlers of Pike and Ross counties. In the Ohio army of 1 8 12 about one-fourth the entire number held rank as commissioned or noncommis- sioned officers. If Sergeant James Foster of Captain Keys' company was in fact the author of our narrative, his lowly rank sug- gests that he was either a very young man xxiii ^tetortcal Sntrobuctton or one of no outstanding influence in his home community. That the author — who- ever he was — did not actually live in Ohio is inferentially twice suggested: first, in the preface, where he states that "while in the State of Ohio" he joined the company; and secondly in the Shakespearian quotation ac- companying the copyright notice, beginning "My business in this state made me a Looker on here in Vienna." With this statement of these various clues we place the problem in the lap of the reader — was the author in fact, as bibliographers have heretofore sup- posed, James Foster, a soldier in Hull's army; or was he some unknown journalist who uti- lized the Lucas journal and other contem- porary sources of information to compile a narrative to satisfy the popular demand for information, without himself having served in the campaign? However these things may be, the Ohio Volunteer's narrative is a useful historical record. The observations copied from Lucas are at least as valuable as those the putative author might have set down, and the record as a whole discloses clearly the contempo- rary state of the public mind in Ohio, not merely with respect to General Hull but also concerning such things as military dis- cipline and the art of war in general. If xxiv Hfetortcal 3httrobuction present-day Americans have the capacity to profit by the lamp of experience, they will derive from a reading of The Capitula- tion important light upon how not to organ- ize and conduct our future armies. We have no knowledge of the number of copies of The Capitulation that were pub- lished, but all the attendant circumstances justify the inference that it was consider- able. As long ago as 1880, however, the book had become decidedly rare. Thomson, the Ohio bibliographer, had never seen more than three copies; 2 and such institutions as the Library of Congress, the State Library of Ohio, the Ohio Archeological and His- torical Society Library, and the public li- braries of Detroit, Cincinnati, and Cleveland are today without them. The Union Catalog of American Libraries lists copies of the book in seven institutions. American Book Prices Current records but few sales of it, and these at relatively high prices. In twenty years but three copies have been sold, for $140, $175, and $240 respectively. Quite likely many Ohio attics conceal additional copies, but 2 The present Editor has never seen any; it is in- teresting to observe that the photostat copy of the one he has utilized bears on the title page the signature of Thomas Worthington, Governor of Ohio and U. S. Senator. XXV Historical Sntrobuctton until these shall yield up their contents it is obvious that most readers will find access to the original edition either difficult or im- practicable. Its first reprinting in the Lake- side Classics Series, after an interval of 128 years, should constitute a real, if modest, contribution to the study of Midwestern American history. Save for editorial an- notations, we reprint the book verbatim as it came from the frontier Chillicothe press of James Barnes in the autumn of 18 12. M. M. Quaife Detroit, May 15, 1940. XXVI Journal of Thomas Vercheres de Boucherville Journal of Thomas Vercheres de Boucherville $art I FUR TRADER AND MERCHANT IN the year 1803 I left my father's house for Lachine, having engaged for a seven- year term of service with Sir Alexander Mackenzie as clerk for the New Northwest Company in the Upper Country. Three days after my arrival at Lachine I embarked in a canoe belonging to Mr. Maillou, a trader at the Grand Portage. Our guide was called Larocque; the steersman's name was Robil- lard; both were famous chanteurs de voyage. My fellow-clerks, for the company as well as on this voyage, were Vienne, Curotte, 1 McMullin, Gordon and Cameron. 1 Apparently this man was Michael Curot (Curotte), a clerk of the Company who was sent to spend the ensuing winter of 1803-04 on the upper waters of the Chippewa River in northwestern Wisconsin. He kept a journal of his experiences, which is preserved in the Dominion Archives at Ottawa and has been pub- lished in the Wisconsin Historical Collections^ Vol. XX, 396-471. Max on tfje Bettoit After a journey of several days we reached Lake Nipissing, where we were detained three days by a northeast wind, accom- panied by a considerable fall of snow. With no protection but our light canvas tents we were nearly frozen and this gave me my first taste of the seductive influence of cold at the last extremity. On the fourth day, however, we were able to launch our canoes and continue our journey to Sault Ste. Marie, though not without great discomfort. A youth of eighteen, and never before away from the paternal home for any long journey, I understood next to nothing of the barbaric jargon of the voyageurs nor did I know anything of their habits and manner of life. Alone with them in this frail craft, only now did I begin to reflect upon the folly which had induced me to share such an adventure. The prospect of a seven years' engagement, with no hope of drying the tears of my poor mother, who was even now grieving over my wayward- ness, was almost more than I could bear, and my restless fearlessness was fast giv- ing way to the cravings of nature, when the sonorous voice of the steersman began to intone the words of the merry song "Where are we going to sleep tonight ?" and I was about joining in the reply "At home as 3fountal of ^Terdjere* ever, laridondee," when I found myself chas- ing back a flood of tears. Instead of a good bed in a warm and comfortable room there was only a tent for covering and a couch upon the bare earth. But I soon mastered my grief and at the second refrain was ready to join with the others, only in place of the usual words I sang "My dear tent as ever." By the time we arrived at Sault Ste. Marie my homesickness was beginning to abate somewhat although I was still far from cured. For two days I had been un- able to eat food of any kind, and of all the maladies I have ever experienced, this was one of the most painful. We learned at the Sault that the Cheva- lier 2 had arrived with his brigade some days in advance of us. We were invited to take breakfast with him in his tent at ten o'clock, and without waiting for a second invita- tion (especially I who had eaten nothing for forty-eight hours) we hastened to accept. Our worthy host regaled us in princely style. 2 Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who had been knighted in 1802 in recognition of his achievements as an ex- plorer. Alexander Mackenzie' s Voyage to the Pacific Ocean in I79J> edited by the present writer, was published as the Lakeside Classics volume for 1931. An account of his career, and of his connection with the various North West companies, is given in this volume, pp. XIV-XXVII. Max on tfje Detroit Soup and fresh meat, with broiled white fish, made a delicious menu and believe me, we feasted. I was delighted to find here someone I knew, a Mr. Lamothe, who told me that the Nolins also lived at the Sault. I felt it my duty to call upon the family of my friend of early days at the College of Montreal (directed by the Sulpician broth- ers), and this I did before leaving for the Grand Portage. I was received with much kindness by Mr. Nolin who had already heard of me from his son who had left for the Upper Country a year before. 3 The seventh day after our arrival we were ordered to be ready to sail on the schooner Perseverance* commanded by Cap- 3 The Nolin (Nolan) family had been prominent in the Northwest fur trade since early in the eighteenth century. The writer's schoolmate was probably a son of either x^ugustin or Jean Baptiste Nolin, both of whom were associated with Sault Ste. Marie and the fur trade in this period. Prior to the War of 1 8 12 Augustin Nolin built a residence at the Sault and retired from active trade. At the capture of Mackinac in July, 181 2, he was influential in restraining the Indians from massacre, and in 181 5 he forewarned the Americans of an impend- ing attack upon Sault Ste. Marie. Various documents in the Detroit Public Library disclose that Jean Bap- tiste Nolin was associated in some capacity with the North West Company while a resident of the Sault. 4 The Perseverance, in which Vercheres traversed Lake Superior, was an 85-ton schooner built by the journal of ^Jertfjerefi tain White. The Chevalier, with McKenzie and George Moffatt, 5 his two nephews, were to sail with us. About three in the after- noon we were all on board, when the anchor, yielding to the sturdy pull of the sailors, appeared above the surface of the water. Every man was at his post and the wind was blowing a hurricane, when the captain's voice was heard above the plaintive groans of the rigging and the lashings of the tern- North West Company for service on that lake. A companion vessel on Lake Superior was the Nancy, which was built at Detroit in 1789. In 18 14 an Ameri- can army under Major Holmes raided the Sault, burned the North West Company warehouses and other prop- erty, blew up the canal locks, and attempted to run the Perseverance down the rapids into Lake Huron; she ran upon a rock, and was thereupon burned by her captors. The Nancy sought hiding in Notawasaga Bay (head of Georgian Bay), but being discovered and in danger of being taken by the Niagara, Perry's flagship in the battle of Lake Erie, she was fired and de- stroyed by her crew. The ruins of the Nancy have been found in recent years at the scene of her destruction. 5 George Moffatt was born in England, Aug. 13, 1787. He came out to Canada in 1801, entered the fur trade, and achieved success and fortune. He sub- sequently held important political offices in Lower Canada. He made his home at Montreal, where he died in 1865. W. Stewart Wallace, historian of the North West Company, states that confirmation of Moffatt's supposed relationship to Sir Alexander Mac- kenzie is lacking. 7 2Uar cm tfje ©etrott pest, "Hoist the sails! Hoist the sails !" In less than two minutes time we felt the pitching of the vessel as she was borne along over the rough waves, and we were embarked on the broad waters of majestic Lake Superior. For the rest of that day and the follow- ing night and day we sailed before a driv- ing wind. About six in the evening the sky became suddenly overcast; thick, black clouds shut out the daylight, while rolling up from the west came a threatening mass, pierced by vivid streaks of lightning. All of us watched this heavy mass of black cloud with the anxious countenance of the mariner who sees the arbiter of his fate approaching. Yet was I spellbound in admiring wonder at the superb poise of our masts, now bending their heads to the level of the water as though in playful sport with the waves, now rising in the gleam of lightning flashes only to plunge downward again. The thunder roared with redoubled force at every shock. The swiftly repeated detonations were like bombs burst- ing about us from every point of the horizon. Suddenly a brilliant flash reflected millions of rays from all parts of our vessel and a thunderbolt struck the water with a ter- rific crash not more than ten paces from us. journal of ^ercfjereg A shudder as of death ran through me. This terrible shock was a warning from God to prepare for the last voyage to eter- nity, and involuntarily I raised my eyes to heaven as though imploring its aid. The waves beat furiously against the sides of our vessel. All the forces of evil seemed united in a conspiracy for our destruction so fierce were the assaults upon our ship. Then above the unspeakable tumult came the comforting cry, "Land! Land!" Clinging fast to the bowsprit mast dur- ing the tempest, in a brief flash of light- ning Captain White had caught a glimpse of the Milons or Baribux Islands. We were about to strike on the outlying rocks when by a dexterous turn of the wheel he saved us from our perilous position. This feat alone should add much to his renown. For some time he had lost his bearings owing to the rapidity of our course during that terrible night of storm. It was necessary that the prow be kept to windward, and the vessel pitched and rolled so that we could no longer stand up- right. We were so sick that a stranger to the scene would have said we had all taken a strong emetic, and even the Chevalier, who had made several ocean voyages, was as sick as the rest. The ship rolled to a Max on tfje ©etrott height of ten feet or more from one side to the other and during this time two valuable cows, whose loss we could ill afford, were washed from the bridge. Towards morn- ing, the sky began to clear and the wind diminished perceptibly. We were not yet out of danger, however, for the waves ran high and threatened to dash us on the rocks at any minute. By a very special providence the wind shifted some degrees, enabling us to tack and withdraw some distance from that dangerous shore. Soon we were under full sail and happily reached the Grand Por- tage which I had so often heard mentioned when a boy by the voyageurs of the village. You can doubtless imagine with what relief I again set foot on land. Although free from the dangers of the deep I was most unsteady and stumbled over every little pebble in my path. So lightheaded was I that I seemed to be climbing and descending the waves at every step, but like all matters of the imagination these illusions passed and though sad at heart and stealthily drying a tear for my dear parents I set myself to the task at hand, got my box and bed of two blankets ashore, and carried them up to the fort. Situated on the brow of a sloping hill, over a mile 10 SFournal of "Wtxtfyzxtst from the landing, the view from here was very fine. It had been built by the North- west Company and consisted of palisades of tall cedar pickets with bastions at the four corners. Within the enclosure were several good buildings for the use of mem- bers of the Company, and towering over all was an immense flagstaff from which, on Sundays and when heralding the arrival of the principal bourgeois, floated a large and very handsome flag. 6 During my whole stay at the Grand Por- tage and until I had orders from the Cheva- lier to set out for winter quarters I was employed at the shed where our liquors were stored. I was told to repair to the 6 For Alexander Henry's account of his visit to Grand Portage a generation earlier than Vercheres, see Alexander Henry's Travels and Adventures, the Lakeside Classics volume for 1921, Chap. 8. The trading post and fort — also known as Grand Portage —was long the chief station of the North West Com- pany in the interior of the continent. For several dec- ades prior to 1804 it was the center of the fur trade of the Far North West. About the time of Vercheres' visit the place underwent an abrupt decline, the dis- covery that it lay south of the international boundary causing the traders to remove their activities to Fort William, which was established in 1804. In recent years, governmental authorities have undertaken the task of excavating the remains of the ancient post and constructing a modern replica of it. II Hilar on tfje Detroit place where the canoes destined for the North were in waiting. My effects were carried on the backs of my men and at the far end of the Portage, which is nine miles long, I found others busy gumming the canoes preparatory to our departure on the morrow. The guide assigned to me for this northern journey was called Ducharme; and my steersman's name was Laporte; neither had that gift of song I had so much en- joyed on the way to Sault Ste. Marie. At daybreak we began to load the canoe for Fort Dauphin and by nine in the morning were ready to set out. It was not long before we encountered quite a little fall of water, called The Partridge, and were obliged to portage. Desirous of helping my men, the heavier end of a barrel of gum fell on my hand, cutting off a part of the index finger. This was very painful but fortunately I had brought along a small bottle of turpentine. I applied a few drops and it was not many days before the wound was healed. We had a comfortable voyage as far as Rainy Lake, a distance of one hundred and thirty leagues from our starting point. Here I was very glad to make the acquaint- ance of the clerk, Lacombe, a cousin of the Lacombe family of my native parish, more 12 journal of ^ercfjetetf especially as we were delayed eight days while waiting for orders from our superiors. These came at last, and reloading our canoes with corn, tallow, and other provisions, we again set out. On the twelfth day, after encountering many falls and portages, we reached the head waters of Winnipeg River. Here I will relate an incident of the journey that seemed to me very amusing. At the rapids between Rainy Lake and this place we met with vast numbers of peli- cans, called by the Indians chietecs, either flying over our heads or resting on the water. These birds would raise themselves a little, then with incredible swiftness they would disappear for an instant under the water and come up with a fish in the beak. With a gulp this was stored away in their pouch and the fishing continued until the weight of the prey forced the bird to retire to a safe distance for leisurely digestion, always in some fear, no doubt, of becom- ing in turn the prey of the voyageurs, who could then easily capture them. We remained several days at the head- waters of this river, which we left about the first of September to enter the lake of the same name. 7 These were days of per- 7 They had descended Winnipeg River from Lake of the Woods to Lake Winnipeg. 13 Max on tfje Betroit feet calm. After several days' journey, at the turn of a point called Pike's Head we came upon an encampment, having many large bark canoes drawn up on the land while their owners were engaged in stretch- ing their nets in the hope of obtaining enough fish for their subsistence. This induced us to do likewise. I had my tent pitched, stored the goods in a safe place, and then made ready for a visit to these new-found neighbors, believing them to belong to the old North West Company, the competitor of the one I now represented. Nor was I mistaken; they proved to be employees of that company who had camped here for several days to engage in fishing while on their way to the shallows of the Winnipeg River. I found these poor people almost desper- ate, having barely caught enough fish to supply their daily food since making their encampment. Their leader was pacing up and down the beach. I inquired his name and, having been told it was Jacob, I went up to him and we quickly struck up an acquaintance. He was from Lower Canada and had a married sister at Boucherville. Without further ceremony I invited Mr. Jacob to come with me to my tent for re- freshments and he eagerly accepted. My 14 Hfoumal of "^Jercfjeres cook made fritters of flour and suet and with the salted meat I gave him the best I had. After this frugal repast we spent the eve- ning in conversation of indifferent interest to anyone but ourselves. Our talk was inter- rupted some two hours after midnight by my guide, who came to say that we ought to take advantage of the calm weather to cross the bay which extended about nine miles before us. Accordingly, we launched the canoes and continued our journey. Leaving Lake Winnipeg in our rear we entered another called Manitoba. The wind having freshened, we had navigated fully three-quarters of the distance across when suddenly the canoe I was in grounded in a shallow and sprang a leak! The water poured in over our feet and what was worse our goods went overboard. Fortunately the other canoes came to our rescue and col- lected all the articles that were floating gaily away. A few days later we reached the Dauphin River and were then only a few miles from the Fort itself. This structure is called a fort because it is surrounded with pickets and equipped with bastions, although it has no cannon. It is built of logs and is shaped like the head of a dog. A single clay chimney rises from the center; the openings are hung with undressed 15 iUar on tfje Betrott hides and the outside is covered with slabs of elm bark. So now you see this famous fort. 8 I at once made over my canoes to the chief clerk of the post and their contents to the factor. A few days after my arrival the Commandant, whose name was McMurray, told me that he had orders from Sir Alex- ander Mackenzie to keep me under his charge for the winter. It was about the middle of September. I had here the extreme pleasure of meeting young Nolin, whom I have mentioned above. This young adventurer was employed by the old Northwest Company. Notwithstanding the jealousy existing between the two com- panies he contrived to see us often. Since my arrival I had been busy mixing strong liquors which, when thus combined, were called High Wines, a beverage beloved by the savages because of its quick action in reducing them to a state of drunken in- 8 The first Fort Dauphin was established by the sons of Verendrye on the northwest shore of Lake Manitoba. It was soon destroyed by the Indians, but was rebuilt in 1743 and was probably occupied until the downfall of New France. The Fort Dauphin of Vercheres' time was also called Dauphin Lake House. Subject to several removals, the fort (or its successors) was maintained for almost 100 years. See Ernest Voorhis, Historic Forts and Trading Posts of the French Regime .... (Ottawa, 1930), 58. 16 Sfournal of ^Xerrijere* toxication. It was the "firewater" which proved so disastrous in its effects upon the aborigines of all the tribes. On November 15 Mr. McMurray sent me on a trading expedition among the Indians. I was to be located about one hundred and twenty miles away and to have with me an interpreter called Clermont and five men to carry the goods. We left the next morning at four, our destination being Vichiosnose- pinque, the Sauteuse name meaning "Two Rivers." 9 All that day we tramped, sometimes through dense forests, sometimes over broad plains where fire had once raged, leaving a black, charred waste. We soon looked the same. From time to time as I glanced at my men, in spite of fatigue and aching limbs I could scarcely refrain from shouts 9 The map drawn to illustrate the exploration of the region west of Lake Superior by S. J. Dawson in 1857-58 shows Two Rivers on the Assiniboine about 160 miles almost due west of present-day Winnipeg. This would be about the right distance south (and slightly west) of Fort Dauphin to comply with the author's statements concerning his trading destina- tion; the vagueness of these statements, together with editorial unfamiliarity with the local geography, pre- vent anything other than this tentative identification of the scene of Vercheres' initial experiences as a trader in the Far Northwest. 17 Max on tije Betrott of laughter, so grotesquely funny were their dirty begrimed faces. We were like so many negroes. Once I missed my dog, a faithful, affec- tionate companion. Going back a few paces I called "Osmar! Osmar!" Instead of the big tawny animal I knew, something black came rushing towards me, leaping over me with such force that I lost my balance and fell to the ground. Before this I could not believe it was my dog, so that was what I got for doubting him. About five in the afternoon we entered a magnificent grove of tall pines, standing out a few rods from the main forest. The last rays of the setting sun gilded the tree tops and the blue of the firmament rivalled the Soul of the Virgin in purity. Yet the cold was intense, coming in sudden gusts with the wind that had sprung up from the north. I was in distress. It seemed impossible to proceed another step, but I must either go on or be left behind alone in that dense forest. If we were not there first the rival company would get our trade. I knew not what to do. Still there was only one decision to make, and however much I hesitated I knew I must be left behind. With strict in- junctions, therefore, to leave me a clear blazed trail for the morrow, which they 18 journal of ^errijere* promised faithfully to do, I let my men go on without me. I kept my dog, and a gun and a dagger in case of surprise. As soon as my men were gone I began searching for the best place to camp. I then made a great fire and laid in a supply of dry branches for the night. It was now about nine in the evening and time I should think of prepara- tions for supper. I put a piece of venison before the fire to roast while I had my first sleep, then wrapped in the blanket I had taken the precaution to bring with me I lay down on my pile of branches as gratefully as in the most comfortable bed. In spite of all this, however, I could not sleep. It is my habit to be as wakeful as a sentry, with one ear open for any disturbance, no matter how slight, and at each rustle of the leaves in the frosty air I would reach for my gun. About an hour after midnight my dog, who was sleeping at my feet, raised himself stiffly alert with his eyes fixed on the edge of the woods as though to pierce the dark- ness. He remained in this attitude for a minute or so, then lay down again. Soon he roused the second time, growling hoarsely, and made several circuits of my bed before he came back to lie down. Clearly he sensed the approach of danger. I examined and primed my gun, felt the edge of my dagger Max on tfje Betrott to be sure it would be ready in case of need, and satisfied that both were in order, I began to make a hasty ascent of a great pine tree. My poor dog watched every movement and seemed to understand, for as soon as he saw me hiding as well as I could in the foliage he naturally gave a thought to his own safety and plunged quietly into the thickest part of the wood. I soon heard a heavy crackling tread which came nearer and nearer. I was not afraid but my limbs shook and my teeth chattered. Then by the light of the fire I saw something white approaching lei- surely through the wood and could make out the huge head of some strange animal. It was a polar bear, come to pay me a visit. Without waiting for me to descend from my aerial retreat that I might offer him the hospitality of my frugal supper, he pro- ceeded to help himself and with his great paw drew it from the fire and devoured every morsel in no time, much to my dis- pleasure, needless to say. How I should have liked to send him a leaden messenger asking the reason of his impertinent intrusion! But I saw that this dangerous cannibal had not noticed me in my hiding place and I thought it the better part of valor to let him depart without starting a quarrel. Besides I was not entirely without recompense since, for 20 Sfoumal of "Wzxtfyzvzg some inexplicable reason which I cannot even yet understand, his presence had en- tirely relieved me of that dreadful ache in my legs from which I had been suffer- ing previous to his appearance. The night seemed to me interminably long but like all other nights it came to an end at last and soon the sun, gloriously radiant, mounted step by step above the horizon and shedding its brilliance on all around bathed me, too, with light and called me to leave my im- provised resting place. I needed no second warning but descended without more ado and with equal prompti- tude gathered up my belongings, fearful that my nocturnal visitor, now graciously retired somewhere near, might be tempted to an embrace before my departure to reward me for the excellent repast I had provided. He had kindly overlooked the morsel of dried meat that was wrapped in my blanket and he might well conceive the idea of returning to see if I were still so hospitably inclined. I therefore ate a part of this in haste, for I was almost famished, and saved the rest for my evening meal. Without more delay I then set out, followed by my faithful com- panion, Osmar. My people had made a clear blazed trail, as they promised, either by chipping the 21 31©ar on tfje Betrott trunks of trees with their hatchets or by- cutting off the ends of branches after the manner of the Indians. My dog, who on seeing Mr. Bruin take leave of me had re- turned to sleep at the foot of the tree where I had so nimbly retired, now followed every step and by his joyous gambols seemed try- ing to divert my mind from the profound solitude in which I now found myself. With- out this experience I could never have con- ceived anything like the oppressive silence of these immense forests. So I walked the whole of that day. Night was falling and I had nothing but the small piece of dried meat I had kept from breakfast. I was faint from fatigue and wholly demoralized. To add to my misery the thought of my father's house haunted me in a manner not calcu- lated to give me the slightest comfort or consolation. Why had I placed myself in such an extremity? I must have been crazy! And now came the torments of a consuming thirst. I had tried to extract moisture from wild rosebuds, but all to no avail, and I suffered the pangs of martyrdom. Sud- denly I was drawn from the pit of my de- spair by the sound of a gun fired at no great distance. It gave me new life. Then just as quickly as I had felt the joy of salvation came the sensation of fear. I was only too 22 Sfoumal of ^Xerdjere* well aware of the war then going on between the cruel tribe of Gros-Ventres and those Indians with whom we traded, and it might easily happen that I was now in the vicinity of a party of these warriors, who would either scalp me on the spot or carry me away cap- tive to their own country and perhaps adopt me, wholly deprived of all the blessings of civilization. Either alternative caused me to forget the pangs of thirst which had seemed so intolerable a moment before. Came a second detonation, this time still nearer, then every fear vanished as almost in the same breath I heard my name called. Shamed as I am to acknowledge it, I was beside myself with joy. I made haste to answer by firing my own gun and within a few minutes I was among my own people. They had foreseen that I might become a prey to hunger and had brought some cooked venison, a feast in itself. My first words when they were still some twenty paces distant were to ask if they had seen water near, knowing well they would not bring any along. In this region of lakes, rivers, and streams, big and little, such an idea would never have occurred to them. One of them came forward saying that a spring of pure water was quite near, and I threw myself among them with a cry that 23 Max on tf)e Betrott they take me to it at once. Soon I had the unspeakable bliss of quenching a thirst that had tormented me for hours. I quickly saw that I could not satisfy it at one draught and we camped in that spot where it was possible to eat and drink at will, a more copious and varied entertainment than we had enjoyed for days. Next morning we left at dawn for the Indian camp and arrived about ten o'clock. Had I not myself experienced the hospitality and kindness of these savages I would never have believed it. They welcomed me as a friend. The head chief assigned me one of his own tents and loaded me with atten- tions. He was called Wacagobo, "The Mer- ciful One," and his countenance reflected the attributes his name implied. It was the likeness of St. Charles Borromeo. I was obliged to remain with them more than a month because of inflammation in my legs from the long and wearisome tramp, but my men left the next day v/ith the peltries obtained in trade. Before they set out I asked my interpreter, Clermont, to explain to the chief what care I must have during my illness and to assure him of ample recom- pense both for himself and his family when I should be well enough to return to Fort Dauphin. He replied in terms eloquent in 24 Sfoumal of ^ercfjere* their simplicity: "If we take good care of the young Frenchman it will not be for pay. You know that we have always loved the French. Our first father was a Frenchman and we love his children." How I longed to be able to converse in their own language during my sojourn with them. They had set a great number of traps and caught many beaver, apparently without any difficulty, and were ready to trade the skins when my men came back for me. I confess that I was not sorry to say good-bye, kind as they had been, preferring a more civilized life than I had led with these hospitable savages, but their sorrow at the parting touched my heart. It was now the middle of December with three feet of snow on the ground, and we were obliged to make the return trip on snowshoes. In three days we were at the Fort. This was my first expedition in the service of the Company. It had been accomplished under difficulties and I was glad to find my- self back in safety. No more sleeping in dug-outs in the snow, as we had done for the last three days, and although my father would not have kept his cattle in as miser- able a structure as the one we lodged in at the fort, I felt quite happy and contented after my late experience. ?5 Mat on tfje Betrott On New Year's Eve as a diversion I went with Lafleur to set traps on the ice not far from the fort. I wished to discover whether I could meet with the same success that re- warded the efforts of the savages. Early next morning we returned and found we had a fine catch. Several martins, otter, and other animals were in the traps, but our last trap, placed at some distance from the others, was not in its place. It was necessary to learn what had become of it, and we decided to follow the tracks. After we had walked fully three-quarters of an hour we came to a dense clump of saplings at the foot of a tree and here was a big white wolf in the act of gnawing his foot off to regain his liberty. Even as we came up the operation was completed. Another second and he would be off. I had raised the toma- hawk for a blow when he seized the handle in his terrible teeth and snapped it in two. Lafleur, nothing daunted, quickly struck him with a club. He staggered a few steps, fell, and we finished him. All aglow with such deeds of prowess I returned to the fort thinking my- self already a big shot. Then for a whole week I remained indoors, not sorry for the leisure after all the exertions I had made. See us now reduced to one meal a day and that of smoked meat, the hunt having en- 26 journal of ^errijere* tirely failed for some weeks owing to the adverse weather. But our fast was not of long duration. Towards the end of January, Mr. Mc- Murray returned from a trip among the Indians and reported many wigwams at Duck Mountain 10 filled with peltries. I was told to prepare to spend the remainder of the winter there. Accordingly I set out early in February with five men from our fort, Boisvert, Goulet, Lauzon, Allaire, and Cler- mont, the interpreter. We had with us two large dogs, hitched to a toboggan piled high with our trade goods and liquors, and at mid- night we set out. The weather was intensely cold but dry, the humidity of the winter atmosphere in Lower Canada being un- known here. In three days we reached the Indian camp and found them most impatient for our coming, having expected us daily for some time. The trade having been made and the fall credits pre-arranged, we pre- sented them two barrels of rum of ten gal- lons each. This is the custom after a trade of any consequence, but before delivering it 10 Duck Mountain is the height of land, rising some 600 or 700 feet, lying west of Lake Winnepegosis; it is about 75 miles northwest of Fort Dauphin, which in Vercheres' time was located at the southwest end, or corner, of Lake Dauphin. 27 Slat on tfje Bettott I took the precaution of having all the chiefs meet me in solemn assembly that I might get possession of all the guns, knives, and other weapons they had among them, and thus prevent an indiscriminate carnage when the firewater began to take effect. I had been forewarned about their devilish con- duct under intoxication and the reality did nothing to disabuse my mind. It was loath- some in the extreme. Cries and shrieks were heard on all sides, and men and women alike presented the most disgusting spectacle. The night was a veritable hell, a nameless orgy; even the damned could present nothing more hideously frightful than I was obliged to witness that night. The third day after this debauch, when the Indians were beginning to recover from its effects, I sent off two of my men with the peltries we had received from them, keeping with me the three who understood, more or less, the language of these aborigines. Then, through their chiefs, I had the weapons re- turned that we had taken for safe keeping before their disgraceful carnival. We re- mained with them all through February and part of March, when we set out for another village some miles distant to trade the re- mainder of our goods. When this had been accomplished we returned to the first camp. 28 SJQUtnal of ^ertfjere* It was now the middle of March and the weather was exceptionally fine, as though spring were at hand. The Indians had even begun to tap the maple trees preparatory to sugar-making. For the first time we learned to use steeped wild cherry instead of tea and found it a delicious beverage. The Masgnegon tribe now came to join the Indians with whom we had been trad- ing. Among these forest people there are always some who practice sorcery and tents are especially reserved for their use. One evening when all the hunters were gathered together in some sort of dance, a rhythmic movement to the raucous beating of the drum and the chichaquoi^ 1 the old chief appeared suddenly in their midst and said in a loud voice: "Young men retire each of you to your own wigwams. I shall spend the night in my juggling tent that tomorrow at sunrise I may tell you what is happening all around us." He addressed them in the na- tive tongue, and precisely at midnight he 11 The chickaquoi (variously spelled) was a rattle constructed from a deer hoof or other suitable material. The Chippewa word for rattlesnake was shishikwe, which may suggest the derivation of the name, al- though the implement was not confined to any single tribe. For one rather dramatic illustration of its use in Indiana in 1790 see Henry Hay's narrative, in Wis. Hist. Soc. Proceedings for 19 14, 248. 2o Max on tfje Betroit entered his tent. For some minutes there was a profound silence, after which his voice could be heard in a plaintive chant which suddenly changed to a low murmur of words. Then the most frightful shrieks were heard, continuing for at least two hours. The hide- ous ceremony continued until sunrise, when he ordered all the hunters to assemble and thus addressed them: "My braves, prepare for war! A terrible struggle will commence this very night. The enemy awaits only the shades of darkness to surprise and destroy you. The White Crow came to me last night in warning, a sure sign of approaching trouble." 12 My interpreter translated the message for me and I could not repress a smile. This displeased them exceedingly, and one of them came up to me and asked: "Does the young Frenchman despise the coming of the White Crow? He does not understand nor realize that this is our leader in misfortunes. " Again my interpreter translated for me. He with my other two men, all somewhat super- stitious and inclined to give credence to the 12 Readers of the Lakeside Classics volumes will wish to compare this recital by Vercheres with Alex- ander Henry's interesting report upon the arts of the medicine man; see especially chaps. 14 and 11 of his Travels and Adventures. 3° SToumal of IcXerrijere* predictions of the great chief, then began to urge me to return to Fort Dauphin, taking with me the two dogs. At the same time they cautioned me not to go by the lake because of the recent rapid thaw. Accord- ingly I left early that same morning, with the two dogs harnessed to the sled and a dozen beaver skins packed on it. Descend- ing the mountain, about five o'clock in the evening I reached the shore of Lake Dau- phin, where I found an Indian wigwam and an aged couple of the Sonnant tribe. The old man tried to persuade me to go no farther if I valued my life, but I did not at the time understand what he was trying to tell me. Later, at the fort, it was all ex- plained and I saw what a risk I had taken. The next morning, therefore, I set out, the old couple watching my departure with the most mournful expression. I proceeded in safety until about three in the afternoon, now over half-melted ice, now through beds of rushes seven or eight feet high, my dogs always close at my heels. What was my surprise, then, on emerging from such a thicket to find myself facing a swift current from the mountain filled with cakes of float- ing ice. It was more than three hundred feet across and for a moment I was terror- stricken at the sight, realizing what it meant 3 1 Max on tfje Betrott for me. At whatever risk I must make the plunge, so I fastened the pack on my back and with the aid of my poor dogs succeeded in reaching mid-current. But now I was beyond my depth and gave myself up for lost, the more so as just then an enormous cake of ice came rushing down from above with the sole aim, as it seemed to me, of crushing me to the bottom of the river. But no! All it wanted was to relieve me of my pack, and with renewed courage and re- doubled effort and care I reached the farther bank, all but exhausted, needless to say. Here, I stripped off my clothes and wrung them piece by piece, as much to lessen their weight as to make them more pliable and free from ice. Despite all this, I had not forgotten my pack of beaver skins and I at once hastened to the rescue of this precious freight, the property of my employer. Thanks to the instinct of my dogs I found it a little farther down the bank from where I had myself escaped the fury of ice and current. I fastened it in a tree which was of such unusual shape as to be easily recognized by a searching party from Fort Dauphin. Starting out again, I soon came to an immense plain extending on this side, di- rectly up to the lake shore. Here there was a deep bay and I venture to say without 3 2 journal of ^Terrfjere* any exaggeration, many thousands of birds, swans, bustards, cranes, wild geese and ducks, all within easy gunshot, but, alas! I had no such desirable weapon. I was in despair, but what could I do ? For fully ten minutes I watched them sporting at their bath in the water, then, approaching near enough to attract their attention, discordant cries rent the air on every side and a great flock took to the air with a deafening roar of wings. It was like a big black cloud passing over the disk of the sun and obscuring its light for at least five minutes. Never had I witnessed such a sight. Later, of course, on other excursions, the scene recurred again and again. Arrived at the place where I was to pass the night, I hastily prepared a good fire and warmed myself, for I was still chilly from my icy bath of the morning. I had no kind of covering at my disposal to make a bed, so I remained near the fire all night, seated between my two dogs whose warmth of fleece I envied. When by chance sleep got the better of me, my dreams were any- thing but pleasant. Early in the morning I resumed my journey and reached Fort Dau- phin at three o'clock in the afternoon, ex- ceedingly tired and almost famished, clear water having been my only sustenance since I left the Indians. 33 Max on tfje Betroit Mr. McMurray was not expecting me until May and was much surprised when he saw me, but having listened to my story and heard the reasons for my hasty return he expressed approval and immediately dis- patched four trusty fellows in search of my interpreter and his two companions, and a fifth to bring in the pack of beaver skins I had left in the tree after my momentous crossing of the small river, as I have already related. These men had a perilous journey because of the condition of the trails and they reached the mountain only to find the camp deserted. A few tent poles were all that was left lying about. To return to the events that followed the sorcery of the chief and my precipi- tate departure; that very night the Gros Ventres pounced upon them, with about equal slaughter on both sides. The men whom I had left went with the old people and the women to a distant camp of the Sonnants and returned to Fort Dauphin eight or ten days after my return; those sent by Mr. McMurray came back later without having met them. It was the in- terpreter who told me what had happened after I left. My sufferings on this last expedition brought on a high fever and the inflamma- 34 journal of Uercfjere* tion in my legs was worse than ever. For fifteen days I was unable to move and I had nothing to eat but some dried cherries, an excellent hygienic regimen in its way but not exactly nourishing. As May progressed I was feeling better, and taking my gun I went out a short distance from the fort in quest of game. As good luck would have it, I killed a pheasant, a bird resembling a partridge, and brought it in to my com- panions, happy in the thought of giving them some fresh meat, for they were nearly as weak as I was myself. That no part of the bird might be wasted, it was plucked and put in the pot whole with some asquibois roots. It made a fine broth dark green in color and deliciously bitter. There were fifteen of us to share the feast and it is enough to say that all fared liberally and that our hunger was appeased by this plente- ous repast ! A few days after this I told Mr. McMur- ray that since I was so helpless I had de- cided to return to Lower Canada. It would be better for the Company than to hold a young man to his engagement who was only an expense, not to say a positive detriment. Seeing how ill I really was the good man gave me every assistance in my preparation for the journey home and was so thoughtful 35 Mat on tfje Detroit as to give me the following statement to hand to my father: Fort Dauphin, May 24, 1804 Sir Not having the honor of your acquaint- ance I take the liberty, by the bearer, Mr. Thomas de Boucherville, your son, of ad- dressing to you a few words exempting him from any blame whatever. I assure you that he is leaving us solely on account of the trouble in his legs, from which he suffers continually when obliged to walk long dis- tances, and not because of any improper conduct or injudicious deportment for or against the interests of the Company. Par- don me, Sir, for the liberty I take in thus intruding upon your notice but courtesy to your son impels me to do him justice. I remain, Sir, with respect, Your servant, Thomas McMurray 13 To Mr. Rene A. De Boucherville. 13 Thomas McMurray, the author's benefactor, was born at Montreal about the years 1778-79. He entered upon the fur trade in early manhood and eventually (18 16) became a partner in the North West Company. He continued his activities after the union of the North West and Hudson's Bay companies, finally retiring in 1843. In 1771 Tobias Isenhart, a Detroit trader, was murdered by his clerk, Michael Due, and the corpse 36 journal of ^errfjeretf Without such a statement I would never have dared to show myself before my worthy parent, who never allowed anything to inter- fere with what he called duty. But strangely enough now that I was fortified with the permit to return, and held in my hands the certificate which testified to the true reason for my going, and made it wholly justifiable, all at once I was beset by a thousand con- flicting emotions. What would people say when they saw me returning so soon? I was a coward, surely, and could not bring myself to do my duty. Danger and privation frightened me and I could no longer face such terror. True, I had the certificate testifying to the cause of my withdrawal from the service of the company, but might not this limb trouble be only a pretext in spite of everything? Very well, I would go on. The torture of these long tramps, both while on the march and afterwards, I would bear it all. For was buried under the floor of its defunct owner's house. Suspicion centered on Due, who was eventu- ally tried and hanged at Montreal for his crime. It seems probable that Thomas McMurray was the son of Thomas McMurray, Sr. and the widow of Isen- hart, whom he married in 1772. See Burton Hist. Coll. Leaflets, IV, 39, and W. Stewart Wallace, Docu- ments Relating to the North West Company (Toronto, 1934), 483- 37 Mat on tfje Betrott whose word but my own was accountable? Had I a trifle more determination, more strength of will, the pains would disappear perhaps? I ought not to give up. My repu- tation would suffer enormously by any false step. Long nights through I was a prey to these delirious fancies. At length, however, I realized the source of my trouble and what it was that had in- duced me to ask for my release. There was indeed the passionate longing to embrace my father and mother and to see all the family again, but more than anything else I felt I must find some occupation less trying to my health. All these carried the day, and I held firmly to my first resolve. The month of May was drawing to a close before I began my preparation to leave Fort Dauphin. Mr. McMurray gave me six good men whose time with the Company had expired and who were desirous of going to the Grand Portage to meet those who had wintered at the other posts. A supply of provisions had just come in, so he had us store away a bag of pemmican and a cake of lard. We had also a net to set for fishing, to supplement by this means, if possible, our small supply of food, which must last us until we reached the shallows of the Winnipeg River. It was still May when we left the fort, 38 journal of ^Xercfjereg and with infinite sorrow I said Good-bye to my good friend, Mr. McMurray. We were all voluntary companions for this voyage, no one having any more author- ity than another. All in the canoe were on the same footing and I did my share of the work the same as the others. The fourth day we reached Lake Winnipeg with our provisions already exhausted, having been unsuccessful so far in fishing. In fact, hun- ger had been our inseparable companion. One evening, as we camped on an island, we stretched the net and had a fairly good haul. That was a feast, indeed. Much en- couraged, we set out again the next morn- ing. In the course of the day, what was our joy, famished creatures as we were, to see a column of smoke rising in the air at a little distance and to hasten our course we pulled harder than ever at the oars. As we drew near to an island two men, attracted by our singing, came to meet us on the shore, and stepping from the boat I noticed a canvas tent on the outskirts of the wood, which I immediately recognized as belonging to the North West Company. I was impa- tient to know the occupant — De Roche- blave, 14 someone told me. I then went for- 14 Pierre Rastel, Sieur de Rocheblave, partner and long prominent in the affairs of the North West Com- 39 Max on tfje Detroit ward to greet him and as soon as he learned who I was he received me most kindly for he was well acquainted with my father. He begged me to remain with him for the day but this was impossible because of my com- panions. I told him, however, how we had suffered for want of provisions and he made us a present of a bag of pemmican and some grease to prepare it. We left this gentle- man's camp in the afternoon and on the third day were at the shallows of the river. Here I transferred my canoe to the care of the Commandant and re-embarked in one of the big canoes called rabasca, which come from the more distant posts and are on their way to the Grand Portage. As it was not loaded, we made good time and reached the Portage with neither discom- fort nor fatigue, the two great drawbacks to life in the Upper Country, as it is called. pany. He was a son of Philippe Francois Rastel, Sieur de Rocheblave, commandant in the Illinois coun- try at the time of George Rogers Clark's invasion of it. Clark sent him a prisoner to Williamsburg, Va., whence he eventually escaped by evading his parole. See The Conquest of the Illinois, the Lakeside Classics volume for 1920, passim. Pierre Rocheblave gradually with- drew from fur trade activities, beginning in 18 16, and resided at Montreal, where he held important political offices and was a prominent citizen generally until his death in 1840. 40 journal of ^erdjereg It was now the end of June and we spent some days resting and wandering about, waiting for the Company's schooner, Perse- verance, which makes the passage of Lake Superior. Our orders were to go aboard as soon as she weighed anchor. Several clerks who were returning to Canada embarked with us, besides a member of the North West Company named Thain 15 with twelve of his voyageurs. His canoe was also put on board. July had arrived before the anchor was raised and after a twelve days' voyage, at times in the face of contrary winds though with none of the hurricanes often prevalent at that season, the vessel arrived at Sault Ste. Marie. Mr. Thain asked me if I would like to accompany him to Mackinac, or did I wish to go direct to Montreal. Thinking I might never have another opportunity to see this 15 Thomas Thain was a native of Scotland and a nephew of John Richardson, who was long prominent in the Montreal fur trade. How long Thain had been in America prior to the author's contact with him is unknown. He was long active in the conduct of the Northwest fur trade, both in the interior and at Mont- real. Business reverses and ill health eventually assailed him; he returned to Scotland, where he died in 1838, and where for a time he was an inmate of an asylum for the insane. See Wallace, Docs. Relating to the North West Company, 501-502. 41 WLav on tfje Betrott noted post, I accepted the invitation with pleasure. The post of Mackinac is strongly built; there are also several fine dwelling houses, and some storehouses belonging to the Com- pany of the South. An American fortress commands the approach. I was acquainted with several families living here and was rejoiced to hear that my brother, Pierre de Boucherville, had come in on his way to the Illinois country. I went at once to see him and his surprise was not less than my own that we should find each other in this far- away land, so difficult to reach. The third day of our stay here Mr. Thain notified me to be in readiness to leave in his canoe. It was near the end of August, 1804, and we traveled so rapidly that in less than twelve days after leaving Mackinac we set foot in Montreal, 16 not without a feeling, for 16 This was, undoubtedly, rapid traveling. The great Simon McTavish, however, set a record of y^4 days for the journey from Fort St. Joseph to Montreal. Lieu- tenant George Landmann, a young British army officer of sporting proclivities, determined to lower this record. He bought a light canoe, 25 feet in length, and engaged a famous guide and nine other picked voyageurs. Providence provided a favoring wind on Lake Huron, and Landmann established the all-time canoe record from St. Joseph to Montreal of j]4 days. Considered purely as a sporting event, with no gallery to cheer him 42 SFournal of ^Xercfjereat me, at least, of joyous gladness. I went the next day to the new North West Company, on whom I was dependent for my regular discharge, and found there was no objection. Mr. Thain gave me some money to buy clothes that I might present a good appear- ance before my family in Boucherville. In passing through the old market I bought from an old woman a little pie that looked especially tempting. This I hid as well as I could in my coat, intending it for a treat at a more convenient moment, not having even seen a bit of pastry for so many months. What was my surprise and disgust on breaking it open to find the contents so utterly different from what I had expected. I may not be credited when I say that my pie was made of a barnyard rat! The feast I had anticipated turned to sickening loath- ing and my appetite was entirely appeased! As I went on I saw a merchant standing in the door of his shop and I asked him to direct me to the new market. "Young man," he said, "have you not just come in from the Northwest?" In all innocence I replied "You can see that easily enough by my clothes!" He then began to whisper in my on, this exploit was superb. To adjust it to our author's journey, one may allow the latter perhaps a day to cover the distance from Mackinac to St. Joseph. 43 ffllar on tfje ©etrott ear the most alluring inducements and so well did he succeed that I entered his shop and spent all my money. I bought a pair of olive-colored corduroy trousers, a red jacket, and a waistcoat of the same material as my trousers. I was penniless. Thus gaily appareled, I took passage that afternoon for Boucherville, my native village and the scene of my youthful follies. My mother welcomed me with great joy but my father was very grave. I did not know what to make of it, when suddenly an idea seized me, and I quickly took out my pocketbook and handed him Mr. McMurray's letter. This precious document had a marvellous effect and I was now received by the head of the family with all his customary kind- ness. Though comfortably settled now at home and enjoying all the delights of family inter- course, I became more and more distraught and anxious. My mother was quick to notice this change in me and one day she took me aside and begged me to tell her the trouble. I said everything I could to relieve her mind but at length was obliged to admit that I was apprehensive about the future; that here I was doing nothing; that I wanted to go into business but knew not to whom to apply, for I had no acquaintances in trade, and lastly 44 journal of ^ercfjereg that I dare not ask my dear father to interest himself in my behalf, seeing how much trou- ble I had given him by my foolish pranks even before my departure for the Upper Country. Always tenderly sympathetic, my mother promised to intercede for me with my father. The change in me was so marked that my father could not but notice it, yet it was a long time before he would consider my case and my mother used every possible entreaty before she could persuade him to do anything for me. She succeeded, how- ever, and came to me with the good news. In some magical manner I seemed reborn, and a new sun appeared above my horizon. By a happy coincidence, a gentleman of French origin, who had come to Canada a few years earlier with a group of royalist friends, among whom was the Count de Puisaye, 17 conceived the idea of settling here. 17 The Count de Puisaye, born in 1755, was a promi- nent upholder of the royalist cause in the French Revo- lution and leader of the ill-fated Quiberon expedition of 1795. Along with other royalists he found asylum in England, where in 1798 he undertook to establish for himself and a large number of associates a new and final home in Canada. His efforts led to the establish- ment of the French Royalist colony of Windham about twenty miles north of Toronto in 1799. For a number of reasons, including internal dissensions, the enterprise proved a failure, and in 1802 Puisaye went back to 45 5Uar on tfje Betroit He was paying a visit to my brother-in-law, Lieutenant Colonel de Lery, 18 with whom he had important business relations, and he was also slightly acquainted with my father. His name was Quetton de St. George and he lived in the little town of York, now known as Toronto. One day when he was dining at our house the conversation incidentally touched on trade and he remarked that he was about to lose a valuable clerk, who was leaving him as soon as he returned to York, and he was looking for a young Canadian England, where he died in 1827. During the life of his American enterprise he lived on the Canadian side of Niagara River about three miles above Queenston, where he built a home in 1799. See Wallace, Dictionary of Canadian Biography ^ and references therein cited. 18 Colonel de Lery, brother-in-law of the author, be- longed to one of the most distinguished military families of Canada. His grandfather was a military engineer, pupil of Vauban, who was employed in fortify- ing Quebec and Montreal. His father, also a military engineer, was at Detroit in 1749, where he drew the best known early-day map of the city, and at Fort Duquesne in 1754, where he penned perhaps the best contemporary account of the humiliating surrender of George Washington and his Virginia army to the con- quering French-Indian force. Colonel de Lery served many years in the French army in Europe, but in 1794 returned to Canada, where he spent the remainder of his life. He married Charlotte Boucher de Boucherville, sister of Vercheres, May 20, 1799. See Wallace, Diet. Can. Biography and references therein cited. 46 journal of ^Xerdjere* to replace him; the clerk's name was Vi- gneau and his home was also in Boucherville. My mother, whose foresight nothing es- caped, seized the ball on the rebound and promptly asked Mr. St. George if he would not like to employ me. He turned to me and asked if hardship had any fears for me? I replied with some spirit that I feared neither poverty nor hard work, and that I knew something of both, having lived at close quarters with them in the Northwest. The arrangements were concluded ere we rose from the table and I was given three days in which to prepare for my journey. Again I left the paternal roof, this time in October, 1804. Mr. St. George sent me on to Lachine with a letter to his agent, Mr. Grant, saying that he wished the boats to be ready the next morning. He himself arrived early and by eleven o'clock we were off, with our boats well loaded. The voyage was uneventful as far as Kingston, formerly known as Frontenac or Cataraqui. This is a fine place, well suited for a harbor. Here Mr. St. George took me to see a friend, who was also a French emigre, named de Boiton. Mr. St. George told me, too, of a Mr. Fore- tier who lived here and whom I wished to see, for he had served with my brother-in- law, Mr. de Lery, and my brother, in the 47 IBar on tfje Betrott Royal Canadians. Mr. St. George accompa- nied me and we were heartily welcomed by this gentleman, who had sons living at De- troit. The day following our departure from Kingston the wind blew so violently that I thought the boat would capsize any minute; with short, high waves, now up, now down, producing motions which were exceedingly distressing. But the voyage was short, for the powerful gale was in our favor. Having anchored in the bay at York, we landed without delay and were soon at the house which was to be my home. I soon became acquainted with my fellow- clerks in the store; John Dettor, bookkeeper, John McDonald, senior clerk, and Edward Vigneau, whose place I was taking. They were all very kind to me while I remained with them. It was the rule of the house that the young clerks should perform the severest tasks in the shop, and for a year I had my full share of them. Details are superfluous, but I would like to say here that any young man who would faithfully do his duty must never hesitate at any task assigned him pro- vided it conforms to his conscience. In the fall, after the new goods were dis- posed of, I spent some days with the Count de Chalus and his brother, the Viscount. 4 8 journal of ^Tercfjere^ They were also French emigres, friends of Mr. St. George, who lived twelve or fifteen miles from York. The winter passed without any unusual event and I had every reason to think that my employer was satisfied with me. In July, 1805, a man who owed Mr. St. George a large sum of money left the country. He asked me if I felt capable of pursuing him, adding that by going by way of Niagara and Fort Erie I might possibly overtake him at Buffalo, on American soil. I replied in the affirmative, the more readily as the rascal had only two days the start of me. I was provided with a warrant for his arrest in case I should be lucky enough to catch him, and I set off with a friend, Mr. Cam- eron, in a small Indian canoe supplied us by some Mississaugas. It was about four in the afternoon and very calm when we started in our frail craft to cross for Niagara, thirty miles distant. We had a compass to guide us and a lantern with a candle to give the light necessary to watch the needle so that we might not deviate from a direct course. I chose the night time for the dan- gerous crossing because in summer nights scarcely a breath of wind ruffles the surface of the water. About midnight something high loomed up before our canoe. T asked 49 Max on tfje Betrott Mr. Cameron what he supposed it was. He said it seemed to him to be the masts of a vessel that was becalmed and waiting for a favorable breeze. We approached quietly and when near enough I hailed the ship. The watchman answered, "Toronto" Cap- tain Hall was in command and he kindly asked us aboard, where we soon found our- selves, but he could not conceal his surprise, nor could he refrain from something of a lecture at our temerity, foolhardiness was more like it, in venturing such a distance out on the lake in a little bark canoe. If a wind should spring up we were sure to go to the bottom and nevermore be counted among the living. He treated us to a glass of excellent wine, and we continued on our journey to Niagara, which was still fifteen or eighteen miles distant, according to Cap- tain HalPs reckoning. At sunrise we could see the outline of the high coast, but still so far away that it seemed to recede before us as we approached it. At Niagara Mr. Farcy took me to see Count de Puisaye, who fitted me out with a good strong horse. Without waiting to eat breakfast I started for Chippewa and while resting here a few minutes I had the good fortune to learn that my quarry had passed through that same morning on his 5° Sfonxnal of ^Tercijere^ way to Fort Erie. I remounted my horse and set off at a more rapid pace than before so as to reach Fort Erie as soon as possible. After a long and exhausting ride, at nine in the evening I pulled up at an inn where, to my unbounded relief, I found my man seated tranquilly at supper. The hotel was called the Front. Immediately, in the presence of two wit- nesses I read the warrant and had the ab- sconder arrested in the name of His Majesty. He passed the night under guard of my two men and the next day was conducted to the prison at Niagara, and from here to the one at Toronto. Having completed this difficult and ardu- ous task, I left Fort Erie for the establish- ment of Count de Puisaye and from there to Niagara, where Mr. Cameron awaited my return with an anxiety easily imagined, especially as the Toronto was on the eve of sailing for York. This time we shipped our canoe and took passage ourselves with feel- ings of the utmost relief and satisfaction. I cannot but admit that such were my senti- ments when I again met Mr. St. George. The success that had crowned my efforts and the news of the arrest of the defaulter gave him keen enjoyment. From now on he treated me with absolute confidence. 5 1 UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY