U N I V E 1^5 ITY or ILLINOIS 330 994. VSTr- leoe Return this book on or before the Latest Date stamped below. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Alternates https://archive.org/details/riseprogressofau00puse_0 APR ?3 1363 OPINIONS OP THE PEESS. From tlie “Times.” (CITY INTELLIGENCE.) “ In a work on The Rise and Trogress of Australia^ Tasmania, and New Zealand, a general sketch of the present position of these colonies is accompanied bj useful statistics of the principal towns in each settlement. From the “ Morning Post.” “If exceptions may he taken to the prejudiced view which the author entertains upon colonial subjects, it would be unjust to withhold from him the commendation to which he is entitled for the industrious and painstaking manner in which he has collected information relating to the statistics of the colonies. -Each colony, city, or province mentioned in the work has been personally inspected. The habits and peculiarities of the inhabitants have also been drawn from actual observation. To the native Aus- tralian it is not to be expected that such a book will be acceptable, but to the intending emigrant it will be useful, as calculated to throw some additipnal light upon the rise, progress, and present position of those vast colonies in the Southern Pacific, destined, no doubt, to become the home and the grave of many thousands of the Anglo-Saxon race.” From the “Daily Telegraph.” “The gentleman writing under the name of ‘An Englishman,* has succeeded in producing an exceedingly useful book, which is likely to be generally sought by those who are connected in any relationship whatever with the colonies. Victoria, New South Wales, Tasmania, and New Zealand, including Auckland, New Plymouth, Nelson, Wellington, Canterbury, and Otago, are elabo- rately considered in their geographical, commercial, and moral bearings, and a considerable amount of industry is subsequently displayed in compiling from accurate sources all such matter and information as would be considered necessary by those interested in any of the numerous branches of the vast trade carried on between Great Britain and the colonies.” 2 From the Sun.” Australia lias given rise to almost as many volumes as nuggets, and many of the books are about as profitless as many of the ‘ diggins,’ being mere imaginary speculations, differing only in the tools employed in the process ; pens, ink, paper, and mental conceit being the adjuncts in the attempt to ‘make a book ; ’ and pickaxe, spade, and physical strength, constituting the requisites for the attempt to ‘ make a fortune.’ But the work before us affords a compendium of useful matter, forming a desirable and concise work of reference ; inasmuch that it contains a considerable amount of valuable extract from sound and able authorities, and exemplifies a strong comparative and observant power in the author. Important statistical details are given ; and, altogether, the volume may be estimated as a superior and reliable ‘ hand-book for traveller or settler.’ ” From the Westminster Eeview. “Those who desire a guide-book for the comprehensive travel offered by Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand, will find much to meet their wants in a compact volume written and com- piled by ‘An Englishman ’ who has been a visitor of all those countries.” . From Tait’s “Edinburgh Magazine.’^ “ A useful feature in this volume is its statistics for the Australian cities. Against democracy the author is amusingly irritated ; and is sadly afraid of revolutionary doctrines. Notwith- standing these peculiarities, the book contains valuable information. In ‘ An Englishman’s ’ estimation Sydney appears to be a more settled town than Melbourne. The ‘Englishman’ is a high- churchman ; but he can still quote statistics, and we need them.” From the “ Examiner.” ‘ ‘ The compiler of this work, who has been twice round the world for his material, has collected on the spot a good many useful notes about Victoria, New South Wales, Van Diemen’s Land, and New Zealand. The minuter points of local information will make the work acceptable to many who have friends or relations in the colonies described ; and the idea of the latest statistics of the colonies is good, and admits, as the author suggests, of con- tinuation and development.” From the “Critic.” “ This excellent hand-book of information for Emigrants, actual or intended, has reached its fifth thousand. It deserves its success, for it is full of useful because practical intelligence. 3 From the “Athenasum.” “ This is a conscientiously written book — an excellent guide to the Australian settlements. The statistics which it contains are brought down to the latest date. ‘An Englishman’s’ advice, as given in our quotation, will be valuable in the City, where, indeed, his book will probably find an extensive class of purchasers ; for its statistics and directions must be indispensable to people who have interests in our great southern empire, and to emigrants who are hesitating on the choice of a new home.” From the “Literary Gazette.’’ "No better account of Victoria and its capital, Melbourne, has yet been published, and most lively sketches are given of the material condition of the colony, and the social life of its in- habitants. Of the New Zealand settlements, Auckland, Nelson, Wellington, Canterbury, and Otago, the descriptions are also copious and graphic. The fearless and independent manner in which the author expresses his opinions as to the characters and actions of public men, as well as upon the vices and follies of the colonists, attest his honesty and faithfulness, and may prove of some service in calling attention to evils, even if ineffectual to aid in their mitigation or removal.” From the “John Bull and Britannia.” “ This work should not only be read^ but also marked and learned ; and we predict for it a high position among the standard works of the geographical and hisP)rical literature of our depend- encies. The same remarks apply to other portions of the volume referring to New South Wales, Tasmania, and New Zealand ; indeed the writer seems endowed with an admirable tact, not merely in describing the points of information peculiarly necessary for the emigrant, but also interspersing in them -sound obser- vations upon moral discipline applicable everywhere and to all classes. The work is a very guide-book to the emigrant, a text- book to the moralist, a most interesting companion to the man of letters, and should be well considered both by the intending traveller to those distant shores, and by him who as a cosmopolitan wishes knowledge and virtue to abound everywhere, especially in the kingdom of self. ‘ CcDluni non animum mutant qui trans mare currunt.’ “With excellent foresight for public benefit, the statistics of each colony are not only admirably arranged, but are brought down to the latest date. 4 From the Liverpool Chronicle/' The * Englishman * whose pen figures in these pages is a very plain spoken gentleman, and his pictures of colonial life are by no means flattering. We have very little doubt that the book, from its peculiar attractions, will become popular at home, but it can hardly fail to excite the wrath of the colonial press, especially that of Melbourne, of which the author speaks in terms the reverse of complimentary. New Zealand is, in the judgment of ‘An English- man, ’ the colonial paradise — the place above all others to which an emigrant should go who has labour for his capital. The greater portion of the work, and certainly its most interesting features, are devoted to an elaboration of the attractions of New Zealand.” From the “ Liverpool Courier.” “ The author of this very practical and interesting volume is no tarry-at-home compiler of other men^s productions, but one who has repeatedly visited the scenes he describes. His work is inter- esting at once to those who trade and those who travel. And although the writer is less assiduous in the cultivation of the literary graces than might have been anticipated from some of his previous publications, his work possesses much of sterling interest for the reading public at large.” From the ‘‘Liverpool Mail.” “ We have here a clever digest of the history, as well as of the rise and progress, of our three noble Australasian colonies, by one who has evidently studied the physical and social position which these dependencies have held at different periods of their history. Much attention has been directed to the intellectual and moral condition of the people, as these conditions are observable in the cities and towns, and in the agricultural, pastoral, and mining districts of the colonies of Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand. Although the pictures we have selected for presentation are not the most inviting in the work, it is but fair to state that the author furnishes others of a much more charming kind ; and on taking leave of the subject, we can safely commend the book as deserving of attention.” From the “Leeds Intelligencer.” “ Of the natural qualities of New Zealand the author speaks very favorably ; he deems its climate the finest in the world, and combined with this its amazing fertility and beauty constitute it the most desirable of our colonial possessions. The character and morals of the colonists are also well spoken of, as being at least equal to those of people of similar stations in the mother country. The author, in discussing the moral and political condition both of the 5 Australian and New Zealand colonies, enunciates with commend- able frankness his own opinions, and not unfrequently with a good deal of antagonism to prevalent popular notions ; but he speaks evidently from his convictions, and his strictures are sometimes as unanswerable as it is likely they may he unpalatable. We wish the work all success.” From the “ Nottingham Journal.”^ “We have seldom taken up a volume more calculated to he useful to the numerous class for whom it is written than the one under notice. The ‘ Englishman,’ whoever he may be, has con- stituted himself the M’Culloch, or rather the M’ Gregor of our Australian colonies. We have great pleasure in recommending the book as one of the best that has yet appeared on the subject.” From the Banner of Ulster.” J * ‘ The present work is likely to give a more correct idea of the far-famed land of gold than any publication that has yet come out on the subject. The story of Victoria, with all its exciting details, is quite a rom.ance of real life. To this we shall again recur. Appended to the work we have statistics of Geelong, Melbourne, Sydney, Auckland, Nelson, Wellington, and Canterbury.” From the ‘‘ Sunderland Times.” “After a careful perusal of the hook, we are bound to admit that the author has executed his somewhat Herculean task with the evident determination of leaving few points untouched that seemed in any way calculated to further what appears to have been the chief end he has striven to obtain, namely, that of rendering the volume valuable in a utilitarian point of view, as a work of reference. Our space precludes us from extending the extracts already given ; but to those who are desirous of further information we oiler one word of advice — ‘ buy the hook and read for yourselves.’ ” From the “Halifax Courier.” ‘‘ The author of this w'ork has been at very great pains to ensure both accuracy and completeness ; and the book is remarkably well written, and indeed admirably got up in every respect. It Avill be of great service in diffusing ample and correct information respect- ing the important subjects with which it deals.’ From the ” Poole and South Western Herald.” “ The author of this work is well known as a writer on social questions. The present work is written with general fairness from 6 personal observation, and contains information which the merchant must have and which the intendino^ emigrant ought to have. In literary ability and shrewd observation it is all that is required for a clever and useful book. The author ought to be supported in his well-made attempt to serve the commercial world.” From the “Preston Chronicle.’^ “ The position, prospects, and resources of the above-mentioned colonies are in this work discussed by one who has personally in- vestigated them, and the habits and peculiarities of the inhabitants are delineated from actual observation. We take the following passages from the book, which will fully justify our good opinion of it.” “From the Ipswich Journal.” “This is a work that will be read with the deepest interest by all classes of the community- — treating, as it does, upon the rise and progress of Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand. Indeed a work more interesting or useful could not fall into the hands of those who are in any way connected with the colonies delineated therein.” From the “Kentish Independent.” “ The second part of this interesting and useful work is devoted to the rise, progress, and present position of New Zealand. The author expresses a belief that this colony possesses all the elements of a great and important country, having the finest climate in the world, with corresponding advantages. As a whole the work is of the utmost interest and utility.” From the “Hertford Mercury.” “ The author of ‘ Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand,* has not only prosecuted his design carefully and laboriously, but he has produced a really valuable work. It is proposed to continue it annually, weeding out some of the old information, and inserting such fresh facts as may be necessary in the construction of a book, the object of which is always to supply a correct view of present state of the Australian colonies. We have no hesitation in saying that the project is one which ought to command the attention and support of the public.” From the “Sunderland Herald.** The design of the work, we are bound to say, has* been very happily realised. The information is varied, highly interesting, and well digested. We can cordially recommend the work as of no small value to those who may be interested in the colonies either as intending emigrants or through business connexions.’* 7 From the ‘‘Newcastle Guardian.” ‘“An Eiiglisliman ’ who fully understands the colonies has undertaken to describe them — to pourtray their state, peculiarities, w'ants, advantages, and evils, under the general heads of Victoria, New South Wales, Van Diemen’s Land, and New Zealand. He is rather controversial in his tone and spirit — perhaps too much so for a narrator, but his style is lively and forcible, and he contrives to relieve and render lightsome and readable matters which in other hand« would have proved irksome, wearisome, and dry.” From the “Plymouth Herald.” “ We recommend the perusal of this volume to all who feel in- terested in the colonies ; for after the perusal of its pages we can state that the writer’s intentions have been fully carried out, as the work contains information which cannot be too highly valued by those who desire to know the character of these British settlements.” From the “Dorset County Chronicle.” “ This is a very important work. The writer has evidently bestowed upon it the best ability in his power. He seems to have accomplished his task with very considerable toil, and he certainly has brought to it that class of intellect without which his industry would have made but poor achievements. Our extracts, as will he seen, do not leave the reader with an abstract idea of Victoria, as a whole, but shew some of the features which pervade its sectional character. As it is our intention to return, again and again, to this work, nothing further, in the way of comment, need be expected from us on the present occasion.” From the “Jersey Times” “This is a well written popular account, just published in London, of the rise and progressive career of the vast islands of Australasia ; and appended to it are useful colonial statistics. It is a work which must speedily find its way into the hands of every person connected with or interested in that noble group of colonies in the South Pacific.” From the “IJlverston Advertiser.” “In our former notice of this work we omitted to mention that it had reached the ‘ Fifth Thousand.’ For emigrants and persons intending to emigrate, we know of no book containing so large an amount of reliable and necessary information. Of New Zealand, the author sp^^aks in terms most favorable. He declares it to be the finest colony in the world, and the majority of its people to be equal in respectability, intelligence, temperance, and honesty to those in a similar scale of society in any part of Europe. But we 8 must refer those interested in the subject to the pages of the book for any further information, assuring them while we do so, that they will not be disappointed/* From the ‘‘ Sherborne Journal.’* “We know not a much more promising field for an author than our Australian colonies. The gentleman who has entered on this promising field in the work before us, and who strangely conceals his name, visited the colonies for the purpose of compiling the work. We must do him the justice to say, that in what he has written his language is outspoken, and his estimate of the different colonies bears an appearance of great sincerity. But we would suggest to the author, that when he issues his work with fresh statistics, he should ‘recast* it. There is abundant material to make it, not only useful (as it now is) but popular amongst all classes of readers.** From the “ Port of Portsmouth Guardian.” “To the intending emigrant to Australia, this work will prove invaluable, not only from the accuracy and clearness of its delinea- tions, but from the mass of practical and statistical information it contains. We regret that our space will not permit us to subjoin the author’s ‘ second impressions of Victoria.* We must refer our readers to the work itself, which is worthy a place in the library of the wisest merchant or the sternest moralist in the United Kingdom. * ' From the “ Stamford Mercury.** “ The descriptive and statistical part of the work is well got up ; it contains much useful information, and as/ useful matter is appended to the volume, it will unquestionably meet with a large demand. On the subject of emigration there is some very sensible advice.** From the “Cheltenham Chronicle.** “ This work possesses considerable claims on public favor, com- piled as it is for the purpose of supplying such information as is most needed by emigrants. We cannot in the present scanty glance do justice to its merits, but shall again refer to its contents, when we shall give a further extended notice.** From the “Cambridge Independent Press.” “ Sheltering himself under the generic designation of * An Eng- lishman,* some intelligent, but modest gentleman has, in the above- named work, obliged the community with a very readable, concise, and instructive compendium of the rise and progress of our colonies 9 in Austrcalia and New Zealand, and of their position and prospects up to the close of the year. We have no room for extracts, but can assure our readers, more especially those who have any particular interest in our Australian colonies, that they will derive much valuable information from itu: book which we have thus briefly noticed, and which Las already reached the sale of its fifth thousand.” From the “Maidstone Journal.” **‘An Englishman’ has produced a very useful book on the Else and Progress of Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand — a book which ought to be in every library in the kingdom. ^ We may in a future number find room for some extracts, as an impartial history of our Australian colonies is a rarity.” From the “ Bath Journal.” “ The reader of this work will find as many thousands have already found, a more comprehensive view of the progress and present state of our antipodean empire than has before been pre- sented to the public. If the author continues his work with the ability at present shown, this compact volume will be a valuable acquisition.” From the “ Ulster Gazette.” “ From personal observation and experience of the colonies de- picted in this work, we can bear testimony to the correctness of the descriptions of scenery, character of the people, and future prospects of thejntending emigrant. All who propose visiting these golden lands should peruse this volume. We heartily wish the author a substantial return for the vast amount of labour and expense necessary on the compiling of such a valuable work.” From the “ Dover Chronicle.” “ We are bound to add what * An Englishman * had undertaken to do he has accomplished well. We have taken our extracts at random, but in point of interest and information they w ill be found to afford a fair sample of the book.” From the “ Stockport Advertiser.” At some inconvenience to ourselves, we hasten to pay our best tribute to the work before us, as it is of the utmost importance to the commercial cominunity that they should know every event con- nected with, and every change caused by, the progress of the Australian colonies. It therefore becomes our duty as journal- ists to recommend this talented aiid painstaking publication to the 10 consideration of all our readers, and confidently to add that the information bein^ impartial and accurate, we anticipate for it all the popularity which the public can give a work so essentially useful.” Erom the ** Australian and "New Zealand Gazette.” ‘ ‘ So great is the interest in this country now attached to the Australian colonies, that the title alone of this book has already created a large demand for it, and will certainly insure a con- siderable sale. It differs very materially from any other account which has yet been published of these colonies. It presents them in quite a new point of view ; and although there is much in it which we can recommend, there is not a little also of a tendency which we regret to find in a work otherwise valuable. We regret the author’s propensity to look on the dark side of things, for he evidently possesses the capabilities, as he has enjoyed the advan- tages, of producing a first-class and standard work upon the Aus- tralian colonies.” From the Glasgow Citizen y ‘‘Many of the previous works on these colonies are mere narra- tives of adventures ; others, however, are both meritorious and useful. In the latter class we would place the volume now before us, which evinces a more than ordinary share of intelligence and ability. The writer has made his deductions from personal obser- vation during two lengthened visits to the antipodes.” From the ‘‘ Edinburgh Advertisers^ “This work has now reached its ‘ fifth thousand,^ and it merits the favour which the public has accorded to it. The author, we may mention, gives a saddening account of the low tone of morality and society prevalent in the gold colony of Victoria, but says that things are somewhat better in New South Wales. For his important remarks on this subject we must refer to the work itself, from which w^e make an extract.” From the “ Inverness Courier “ The author brings together a number of statistical tables which will be found to possess great practical value as a means of reference respecting the trade, population, and state of crime in the colonies . Of the three colonies the flourishing islands of New Zealand are his favourite. He declares this promising country to be the finest colony in the world,” 11 From the “Perthshire Courier.” “ A book such as this one has really been very much wanted for some time past. There was no scarcity indeed of books about the Grold Fields, or of Guides to Einio^rants, and similar productions of one kind or other, got up with little care ; hut what was wanted was a work delineating from actual observation, and from authentic sources of information, the present condition, social and commercial of these three most important dependencies of the British crown. ‘An Englishman ' has fully supplied the acknowledged desideratum. Nothing seems overdrawn or exaggerated one way or another. Upon the whole, we must admit that we never read a more exhaus- tive work on the subject. We trust it will meet with that measure of favour from the public which its merits deserve. As a work of reference it will prove most invaluable to all tnose interested in the colonies.'’ From the “ Aberdeen Journal.” “ This work has not been compiled in the author’s study in London, but is the fruit of personal observation. The object of the work is one which demands our approbation, on the ground of its utility. The book is fitted to be useful to the merchant having a colonial connexion, and of interest to the general reader.” From the “Nottinghamshire Advertiser.” “ III the work now before us we have a graphic delineation of the rise, progress, and present position of the Australian colonies. Very minute, and we imagine truthful, descriptions of the towns now rising into popularity, each accompanied by statistical infor- mation, and copious colonial statistics, make up a volume of 500 pages which we fearlessly recommend to the perusal of all who feel an interest in, or who wish for information concerning, these vast British possessions across the Pacific.” From the “ North Bevon Journal.” “ To any who have a thought of emigrating we commend those pages devoted to New Zealand : let not the emigrant resolve to go elsewhere until he has read them. There labor is the only capital required ; wages high ; means of acquiring land easy ; the soil productive, and the climate delightful. Looking at these tempting aspects, he will run a great risk of resolving to form a unit in the population ^f the ‘ Great Britain of the Southern Hemisphere.’ We should be glad to enrich our pages with more of the valuable contents of this volume, but necessity compels us to stop ; and for the rest we earnestly commend the reader to the book itself.” 12 From the ^'‘Fundee Courier “There was previously no scarcity of hooks about the countries depicted in this work. The Gold Fields have furnished a theme for many writers, and works have been published in abundance. But there was still a desire for information of a more reliable kind than these works afforded. In the work before us this want is largely supplied. Indeed there is a strong air of truthfulness about all the statements in the hook ; and the author seems care- fully to have abstained from anything like exaggeration. To persons intending to emigrate to any of the three colonies the information contained in this work will be very serviceable.’* From the “ Bucks Advertiser,^* This hook will be found well worth the attention of those who intend emigrating to the countries of which it treats, or who have dealings with either of our colonies at the Antipodes. It is evidently the work of a iiterarj^ man, and so far as we can judge, it has been honestly and carefully compiled. The author prefers Kew Zealand to either of the other colonies, and of all the settle- ments he points out Nelson as the spot offering most attractions to the intending emigrant.” From the ^^Banhury Guardian** “Emigration has benefited all classes: to those who remain behind, it offers better pay for labour, and more regular employ : to those who break the ties of home, and dare another clime, who will labour — that is, labour in the old primitive style, with the strength of their right arm, it offers unmeasured advantages. Thousands yearly are leaving our shores ; and what these need is reliable information as to the character of the several colonies. We need not say that there are a-hundred-and-one books in cir- culation, all professing to afford this. Without making invidious comparisons between those that have come under our notice, we can but speak in the strongest terms of praise of the one now under review. We can hardly imagine an emigrant being much at a loss in the possession of this book.” From the Freeman ** The author of this book has bestowed no small pains and ex- pense upon its execution. Perseverance will do much, and our ‘ Englishman ’ has accordingly succeeded in bringing together a large mass of well-authenticated facts, especially those ’dry things called statistics^ and he has added to these some original des- criptions and reflections which will be of considerable value to any who intend emigrating to the Australasian regions.” 13 From the English Journal of Education ^ The author’s account of Australia is certainly anything but inviting, for he depicts the manners of the people and their habits as the very reverse of what any educated person would wish to find anywhere, especially on arriving in a foreign country. Can one conceive a more immoral state of things than represented in our extract from the sketch of Melbourne ? But we turn now to another and pleasanter side of the picture. Our author believes the prophecy that “New Zealand will at no very remote period become the Great Britain of the southern hemisphere.” And Nelson seems from our author’s description to he the paradise of New Zealand, not only in point of weather, but also as regards scenery and vegetation.” From the Glasgoio Herald, ” We cannot have a better idea of the wonderfully rapid pro- gression of Victoria than by comparing the “first impressions” which the author formed in 1853, or two years after the gold discoveries, with his “second” in 1855. Though only tw^o years had intervened, the change was almost fabulous. In 1853 the motley population were all so intent in the pursuit of wealth, and the gains in every direction, independent of the gold diggings, were so extravagant, that the colony more resembled an association of gamblers than men steadily and hopefully pursuing their or- dinary industrial avocations.” From the Dev onport Telegraph,^' ^ ** The volume before us contains much useful and valuable in- formation, and it appears to be impartially collated, but the subject is too vast and the field of survey too varied and discursive to be compassed within the brief space of a few weeks’ sojourn at each of these important colonies. But whatever faults the book may possess, it has the merit of being generally written in a clear and graceful style, and the descriptions have an air of sincerity about them that secures the good opinion of the reader, as do the ex- ternal attractions of type and binding commend themselves to his good taste.” * From the Blachhurn Standard'’^ This is a comprehensive and useful work, embracing a large fund of information which will be found of the highest importance to the emigrant ; and we are glad to have it in our power to add that it is written in a truthful spirit. While perusing the graphic details furnished by the author, we appear to be actually transferred to the scenes which he describes. There is no exaggeration or 14 straining after effect. The individuality of the author is lost in the fidelity of his descriptions. We are not surprised to learn that this excellent volume has already commanded an extensive cir- culation.” From the “ Staffordshire Advertisers^ “The reader cannot imagine this book to be a mere compilation. The writer has evidently seen the people and the places he de- scribes. Indeed the chief interest of the work to the public — and it is a very interesting book — no less than its susceptibility to criticism, lies in this very distinct personality. The author’s opi- nions are very clear, which he utters without reserve and scarcely with moderation. He is a very hearty denouncer of what he dis- likes, but his book has about it an air of honesty and truthfulness which tend to inspire confidence in its statements.” From the Wakefield Journals’ What must particularly strike the reader of the present work ■ — at least judging from the feelings we have ourselves experienced during its perusal — is the perfect absence of that superlative over- laying in both description and comment which are so remarkable in works of a like nature. The author, evidently a person of masculine intellect, a keen observer, and possessed of a flowing and easy but forcible style of composition, brings his whole powers to bear on this subject, and writes with an amount of genuine unction and freshness that while it fascinates the reader, impresses him at the same time with the truthfulness of the contents of the book. We should be glad to quote still more largely from this excellent work. We had marked one more extract on New Zea-' land, which, however, we are compelled to omit until next week. Not only to the intending emigrant, but to all those who wish to become acquaintad with the history and capabilities of this very interesting portion of the British dominions, we cordially recom- mend a perusal of the book.” From the Western TimesS’ “Who ‘ An Englishman’ is this volume does not declare ; but judging from the preface, we presume he is in some way connected with the Civil Service of the Colonial Department ; at least he has been assisted by those at the head of it, and this fact may be taken as authenticating the statistical information he supplies. Not- withstanding the press teems with works on Australia, the public will find room for a book like this, and will appreciate the plain, matter of fact manner in which the author describes the condition of those comparatively young but grandly flourishing centres of industry which he has visited. It is a relief to meet in the mass of rubbish, a frank, outspoken book, written by a quick-sighted 15 man, who has used his powers of ohservation, and who will not strongly excite the imagination, or mislead his confiding reader with "too flattering a picture of his subject. The book is a thoroughly practical one, and its usefulness is not injured by the rare instances in which ‘ An Englishman * may have allowed his opinion to be tinged with prejudice.” From the Bristol Mercury'^ “Public approbation of this work is shewn by its extensive sale. The aim of its author has been to produce ‘ not a voluminous his- tory of the colonies from the period of their foundation, but a work of reference, in which the rise, progress, and present position of the respective settlements may be ascertained at a glance.’ He is fitted for the task by a personal aequaintance with his subject, having visited in detail the colonies whose characteristics he de- scribes ; and he has honestly given his own impressions regarding men and things, and has taken pains in seeking statistics from the best sources.” From the Wiltshire County Mirror''^ “ The rise and progress of our South Pacific colonies are lucidly described in this elegantly bound volume. The objects of the author have been satisfactorily attained. The commercial im- provement and present condition of each dependency is duly noted, the information having been gleaned from personal observation and ofiicial documents. Numerous tabular and statistical statements may be found in this work, and its usefulness is much increased by colonial statistics. From the Feterhorough Weekly NeivsF “A jjressure of engagements has too long caused this work to remain unnoticed. It is unlike the majority of books of travels, for it is written with higher aim than the self-glorification of the writer, and contains some pre-eminently practical observations. To all who are either themselves contemplating emigration, or have relatives in the colonies, we cordially recommend a perusal of its contents, to which, in our short space and brief extracts, it is impossible to do ample justice.” From the “ Wakefield Express The condition of our colonies is always a subject deeply interest- ing to us as a commercial nation, since by whatever means their prosperity can be promoted our own advancement will be secured. The writer of the volume before us has twice journeyed to the anti- podes in quest of information from which to lay before the public an accurate statement of the position our Australian colonies now 16 occupy. For the condition of these colonies we recommend the volume to our readers, and conclude this brief notice with the following suggestive extract.** From the ‘‘ Belfast Fetes Letter, ** We have perused this work with satisfaction. It is a full and ample history of our most distant colonies. Now that emigration to these colonies has become steady and extensive, it becomes requisite that a correct hand-book, as a guide to their different localities, should be provided. This the author of the work before us has accomplished. No better work since Westgarth’s Australia has yet appeared, whether we take it in its scientific or literary aspects. We therefore, without the slightest hesitation, recom- mend the work we are reviewing to the notice of the public gene- rally, but especially to the regard of all who are looking with an anxious eye to their future fortunes in Australia.’* From the ‘‘ Wolverhampton Journal,^^ The author of this work appears to he a very sensible, clear- sighted traveller, one who has seen for himself, and who honestly tells the world what he has seen ; and any intending emigrant in doubt as to which of the colonies he should make his future home, cannot do better than consult the work of ‘ An Englishman.* He gives the preference to New Zealand, and, in doing so, but re-echoes the opinion and advice of every traveller who has compared the many advantages which New Zealand possesses for the English emigrant over Australia and Tasmania.** • From the ^‘Bolton Chronicle, ‘‘This is a publication which cannot be viewed in any other light than an invaluable vade mecum to the intending emigrant ; and if we were asked to point out the best, the most recent, and the most authoritative work on the colonies of the southern seas, we should most unhesitatingly select the one under notice as the most reliable and faithful in its details.” AUSTRALIA, TASMANIA, & NEW ZEALAND, FOURTH EDITION. By HER MAJESTY' S graoiouB command^ {conveyed to the Author through the Hon, Major General Grey) a Copy of this WorJc has been in the ROYAL LIBRARY, THE EISE AND PEOGEESS OF AUSTEALIA, TASMANIA, AND NEW ZEALAND, IN WHICH WILL BE FOUND INCREASE AND HABITS OF POPULATION; TABLES OF REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE; COMMERCIAL GROWTH AND PRESENT POSITION OF EACH DEPENDENCY; INTELLECTUAL, SOCIAL & MORAL CONDITION OF THE PEOPLE, &c., GATHERED FROM AUTHENTIC SOURCES, OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS, AND PERSONAL OBSERYATION, IN EACH OP THE COLONIES, CITIES, AND PROVINCES ENUMERATED. BY D. PUSELEY. AUTHOR OF “ COMMERCIAL BEFORE MILITARY GLORY,” “ SKETCHES OF ENGLISH AND SCOTTISH SCENERY,” “ A TRAVELLER’S DIARY,” “FIVE DRAMAS,” ETC., ETC. LONDON: WAEBEN HALL & CO., CAMDEN TOWN. 1858. ADVEETISEMENT TO EOTJETH EDITION. The general favor with which this worTc has been received loth by the public and the press, renders it unnecessary that the Author should longer preserve the incognito of EiTGLisHMAisr/^ under which his former productions have been published, D. PDSELEY. January, 1858 . The Statistical matter in this volume has been compiled from Official documents furnished by the respective Governments ; and the following copy of a letter from the Colonial Office will satisfy the reader that the Author of the work had every facility for obtaining correct information, during his recent progress through the various Colonies '. — Do-wning Street, 29tli Dec., 1854. SlE, I am directed by Sir Greorge Glrey to forward you tlie enclosed letters of introduction to tbe Groyernors of Victoria, New South Wales, Vain Dieman’s Land, and New Zealand, in compliance with the request contained in your letter of the 19th instant. I am. Sir, Your obedient Servant, {Signed) SAM. WHITBEEAD. To D. PiJSELEY, Esq. ? ^ 7 /. mi VICTOEIA. L, G i I i 88 \ 36 PIEST IMPEESSIONS OF YICTORIA. Port Philip was separated from JSTew South Wales and created and proclaimed an independent* Colony, under the title of Victoria,^’ on the 1st July 1851, — the period from which our observa- tions on the progress of the colony commence. Early impressions from works of art are gene- rally considered of higher value than subsequent copies, because they represent the originals with greater fidelity, and in a stronger and more favor- able light. Not so with the various works of nature, in which beauties, unseen at first, present themselves at each succeeding review, and prove to the human understanding that their primitive object and value are only gradually, and then only partially discovered by time, study, and experience. Our first impression of Victoria was not a favor- able one. But we take it to be the duty of those who would direct public attention to the position 4 VICTORIA. or important events of a country, not to advance opinions from a hasty or superficial view of the subject, nor to judge harshly of persons or places by their glaring habits or defects, but rather to trace, if possible, the source from whence the evil currents spring, so that a remedy may be applied in the proper quarter. While, therefore, we be- lieve our first impression from the surface of society in Victoria to be substantially correct, a little penetration into the causes which gave rise to the social disorder of the country has subsequently lessened the surprise produced by the demoralised state of a people in a young and wealthy colony. But, without further preface, we will describe, or attempt to describe, the state of the colony, and a few of the sensations produced on our arrival. In 1852-3, speculation, crime, excitement, and disorder in Victoria had probably attained their greatest height ; the yield of gold and the price of land had touched their highest points up to that period ; robbers and murderers commanded exten- sive trades, which they prosecuted with impmiity, and mostly without detection ; land jobbers, many of whom were magistrates and the millionaires of the colony, made their thousands of pounds per diem, and were too much engaged in their profitable traffic to attend to the arrest or punishment of law- breakers ; merchants and storekeepers had too many additions to make on the profit side of their ledgers either to think of, or care about anything VICTORIA. 5 else ; swindlers, grog-sellers, and gamblers were reaping an abundant harvest, and were too busily employed in gathering and storing the same, even to dream of anything like scarcity elsewhere ; while agents, great and small, of every country and denomination, were growing rich at the ex- pense of that sanguine but deluded class of friends or creditors at home, who forwarded their various wares with a view to those golden and long wished for remittances, which — we can vouch for — in a great many instances, have either miscarried, or have not reached their proper destination. During this scene of excitement, crime, and confusion, in the year 1853, we first visited Mel- bourne. To describe Melbourne, as it appeared to us at that period, we will copy, in a few lines, a sketch we published elsewhere, and which has been generally acknowledged to be a correct one. Melbourne, we said, as it appears to us, is a kind of modern Babel — a little hell upon earth — a city of rioters, gamblers, and drunkards — a crowded den of human iniquity — where, from the highest merchant downward, there appears to be but one object in view — where the very faculties of mind, body, and soul, are employed and directed to one worldly end — where thousands are anxiously and almost exclusively bent towards the consummation of their own selfish and ambitious desires — where delusive schemes are the pickpockets of honesty, and where the abuse of useful invention is too often 6 VICTORIA. the bane of its own utility — where calm reflection and all the higher attributes of the mind lose their proper influence in artificial excitement — where the ties of friendship, domestic duties, kindred obligations, intellectual study, and the immortal spirit of true religion are often neglected, if not entirely forgotten in the busy work of self-aggran- dizement — where, in fine, the priceless possessions of health, together with all those sweet enjoyments which constitute the real happiness of life, fall a sacrifice to an insatiable thirst for gain. There are, of course, a few among the many whose thoughts and actions entirely differ from the multitude — citizens equal in every respect to any in the mother country — men who are entirely free from the colonial taint, and whose minds are not influenced by mercenary motives — men who are indebted for their position to the purity of their own character — who inherit their wealth not from their ancestors, but through their own merit — men whose unadorned and manly virtues would, by comparison, leave the gilded titles of our proud aristocracy completely in the shade — men whose benevolence of heart and integrity of principle set a noble example to the world. But while there are such, a few such men, can any one, except the busy actors themselves, whose thoughts are carried with the restless strnam on which they are launched — can any one stand for a few moments in the centre of this newly populated and agitated colony VICTORIA. 7 without being sensibly impressed with the reckless impetuosity of the wayward current — the infinite diversity of the busy scene — the varied and innu- merable tricks and disguises of the dissembling actors, and the universal and ceaseless struggle to pass each other in their daily race towards that great and fathomless ocean — selfish ambition — to which there are countless rivulets, but in which there is no permanent safety — no security against the fickle elements of fortune — no fixed and solid termination, save in the entombment of those mortal spirits which for a season j)lay upon its waters, or in the midnight calm or death-bed quiet which alternately succeed its own convulsions. By comparing the above with the description of Melbourne on our second visit, it will be seen that in the interval of only two years considerable progress has been made in that city in the right direction. But, before proceeding to describe the rise and progress of the colony, of which Mel- bourne is the head, or giving figures of population, revenue and expenditure, which will be found under their respective heads, we will — in order to justify our previous remarks on the state of the colony at the period of our first visit — supply from our log- book a few specimens which were taken at the time from the extraordinary fleet of events that in a few months passed mider our own immediate notice. The sudden announcement and immediate con- firmation of the internal wealth of the colony 8 VICTORIA. created a social revolution — for tlie like of wkich. history may be searched in vain. It may be truly said that the recorded presence of gold and its magnetic influence, both on the minds of settlers and others, had within two years from the dis- covery of the precious metal entirely changed the commercial, social and moral condition of the country — although, so far as morality is concerned, the colony never stood high in that respect. But the little of that virtue it previously possessed soon became less. Husbands and parents left their homes and families ; junior officers, clerks, and numerous officials attached to the Government quitted their avocations ; mechanics and husband- men flew from their labor, while from other lands a whole fleet of adventurers of every profession and denomination hastened to the golden region — each and all anxious to become shareholders in the distant prize. With a change so sudden and complete, no wonder that the quiet and almost dormant state of the country was succeeded by convulsions. The influx of human beings was so great, and the house accommodation in a thinly populated district so small, that in most cases the grasping inhabitants would not dispose of, or part with anything either in the shape of merchandize, provisions, or shelter at treble their value — ^believing, as they did, that the cause which led to, and surprised them with such extravagant offers might, in a little while. VICTORIA. 9 •surprise and please them still more. But, in a greater or lesser degree, the overjoyed merchants, storekeepers, householders, or those who had any- thing for sale in the colony, were in a state of temporary madness. Bewildered, as it were, from the effects of the innumerable jets of fortune that suddenly blazed around them, and fearing that any picture with promises so dazzling and romantic in appearance might, after all, prove an optical delu- sion, they became the unhappy victims of instant success, and cursed themselves for any and every engagement, sale, or transaction entered into, or effected, at exorbitant profits — simply because, subsequent transactions produced, or might have produced them more. Like an obscure or lucky individual receiving favorable overtures for some work of art that had long been deemed valueless, even by its owner, the resident colonists at this moment frequently declined extravagant sums for articles of trifling value — on the vague hypothesis that the value of the article required must neces- sarily be greater than the amount tendered, or that a large offer might lead to one still larger. While all alike, from the merchant to the mechanic — from the landowner to the laborer — were puzzled how to determine the maximum either of land, merchandize, or manual labor, each and all were desirous — however high and artificial might be the existing rate — to force the quotation for their com- modities still higher. The merchant who would 10 VICTORIA. have readily disposed of his wares at a profit of twenty per cent., would now demand double, and, in a little while, treble that per centage, and so on — while the mechanic and laborer required more for one day’s work than they had previously earned in six. Indeed, no one could determine, or even guess what on the morrow might be the sum offered, demanded, or exacted either for labor, or for anything else. With a colony and its inhabitants in such a state of fomentation — with evidence both of the vast scope for labour and, to all appearance, the inexhaustible riches of the country, and with living and increasing proofs of the rapid tide of immigra- tion which had already set in, no wonder that every- thing was suddenly forced to, and maintained for a time, an artificial value. But the figures of fact, which represent some of the incidents of the period, appear so much like those of fiction, that — although registered at the moment when the events to which they relate happened — we almost hesitate to transcribe them from our note book, for fear they might be deemed altogether fabulous. Of one, out of a multitude of speculations which this eventful period gave rise to, most of our readers have probably either read or heard some- thing about the great land mania, which at this time more particularly engaged the attention of capitalists and the fertile wits of colonial gamblers. When therefore we state that land in VICTORIA. 11 Melbourne was publicly sold in our presence at £160, £180, £200, and £210 per foot — prices wbicli are probably five or six times higher than could be obtained for the choicest spots in London ; — when these, and other things equally wild and excessive took place in a country where land is almost of unlimited extent, and only partially ex- plored, — it needed not the predictions of a prophet, nor the profound reasoning of a Greek philosopher, either to prove the delusive height to which spe- culation had carried its votaries, or to premise how great and certain would ultimately be the fall thereof. The resident sharpers were themselves aware of the coming reaction, although it would not accord with their interests to have admitted the same. No. The colonial bears, like the bulls on ^Change, knew well enough what would be the result of the operations which, by personally promoting, they publicly enlarged — they clearly foresaw the fate of the prey they decoyed to the mart; but, with the sagacity pecidiar to their race, — while they kept the field so long as their game was in the ascendant, they, of course, retired with the spoil in time to avoid the consequences of a reverse. Of our own knowledge, we can state that one of these land jobbers left the colony with £150,000 — the whole of which he had amassed in the space of six months ; and, incredible as it may appear, in one instance, this individual bought a plot of land and re-sold it within the same hour of 12 VICTORIA. the purchase, at a clear profit of <£10,000, which , sum was handed over to him merely for withdraw- ing his name from the undertaking in favour of another, and without a shilling having been pre- viously employed in the transaction. The knowledge of these extensive and, for a time, profitable speculations, produced immediate and immense excitement, both in the minds of those who had not yet ventured, but were now anxious to embark in the game, and likewise with others, whose palates had only been slightly sharp- ened by the flavor of success. The effect of this on a population already ripe for any new or promising adventure that might offer, soon became apparent. It gave birth to that unconquerable spirit for gambling, which manifested itself even in the ordi- nary occupations of life. More. The evils engen- dered and strengthened by its stimulating influence had a still more obstructive and baneful tendency. It not only increased a taste for gambling in the various grades and avocations of society, but it was likewise instrumental in arresting the progress of civilisation and art — by unsettling the minds of the people, and by driving thousands of artisans and others from those useful works of labor and skill, by which alone the resources of a coiqitry can be beneficially developed, or the tastes, habits, and morals of the inhabitants gradually and perma- nently improved. That the sudden acquirement of wealth has an VICTOHIA. 13 injurious effect on the minds of many persons we verily believe. Several striking illustrations of the same presented themselves during our stay in the Australian colonies. Men who rapidly rise from penury to affluence — that is, before time has pre- pared or matured their tastes and habits for the change — generally become either the slaves of in- temperance or avarice. Drink is their snare, or gold their idol. It is difficult to determine which indi- vidual of the two is the more revolting — the miser or the drunkard. We have both seen and heard of men who in their lowly or middle stations of life in England have been regarded as kind husbands, affectionate brothers, or faithful friends — but who, under a colonial atmosphere, have in the space of a few months forfeited their claim to the character of either. Perpetual excitement and gold keeps the spendthrift poor, and makes the ignorant selfish and proud. The one has never had of drink enough, the other has never made of gold enough ; the one degrades his friends, the other disowns them. So soon as fortune lends her book to man, So soon does he forget where he began ; Each rising page conceals what he has seen, Shows where he is and not where he has been ; The scenes of yesterday are but a mass, Like something seen obscurely through a glass ; The friends of yesterday are now forgot. He knew them then, hut now he knows them not. While gold distracts the mind and fires the hand. And care drives love and duty from command. The heart forgets its home and fatherland. 14 VICTORIA. The increased and still increasing numbers that thronged the auction marts on each occasion of a government Land Sale/^ and the feverish anxiety manifested by the attendants to huy at any price, showed how great and immediate was the effect produced on the multitude by the temporary suc- cesses of the few. Men with capital, and others without capital ; men with brains, and others with- out brains — all alike rushed to the arena, with the hope of improving or making their position ; while the pennyless and unprincipled owner of mental stock would generally outstep his monied com- petitor in the race — frequently at the expense yet momentary satisfaction of the capitalist, to whom he would transfer his bargains, although in a man- ner which has proved, or will prove to his future chagrin. But wherever the scene, or whatever the cause of artificial excitement and speculation, unscru- pulous and talented adventurers are certain to participate in the spoil or plunder that may spring from the event. We would fain hope, however, that in no country but Australia, where no incon- siderable portion of the population are convicted felons, could there be found specimens of humanity prone to, or guilty of the innumerable and diver- sified forms of trickery, dishonesty, and villany that, in the space of a few months, appeared under our immediate notice — but with more than an allu- sion to which we will not shock our readers. VICTORIA. 15 To any lover of literature and the fine arts, the colony of Victoria, as it appeared to us during our first visit, would prove one of the most unattractive places — short of an uninhabited desert — that could well be imagined. Unless carried with the stream, and prostituted for the purpose of gain, the mind had nothing whatever to feed on, much less to be edified with. For this unintellectual and half civilized state, more than one reason may justly be assigned — although the leading one is embodied in the pre- ceding remarks, by which it will be found that all grades of society were at this excited period rather bent on improving the pocket than the intellect. Still, there was no lack of well educated and well informed men in the colony, the majority of whom however had but recently arrived; and these were too much devoted to the object of their mission — gain — to apply the faculties to any other purpose. Then, as regards the old colonists and their offspring, — they were, for the most part, illiterate and ignorant in the extreme. Uneducated adventurers, most of the former left the mother country at an early age, and their colonial issue grew up, of course, in the unintellectual path of parental obscurity — except, indeed, in those rare instances in which the self-sufficient root evinced a natural desire to enrich the branches. In such cases the children were generally sent to be edu- cated in England; and, on the return of these 16 VICTORIA. marks of fortune’s favor, tke parents themselves caught the first glimpses of their own deficiency ; and then, and only then, did they discover and appreciate the value of the boon they bestowed; for, by the improved and cultivated shoots of their own nature, they became gradually convinced that avarice, arrogance, and dishonesty were merely the overgrown and pernicious weeds of ignorance, and that, with the expansion and cidture of the mind, generosity, modesty, and honesty supplied their place. With the few exceptions to which we have al- luded, the old and wealthy settlers seem to consider the higher branches of education to be entirely beyond the requirements either of their children, or their adopted country. They seldom, however, think or converse about anything so wide from what they pronounce the grand object of life ; or when by chance they do touch on the subject of education, classical attainments are at once con- demned as merely useless and extravagant appen- dages ; because the cost of insuring their possession would involve an expenditure for which there is no certainty of a profitable return. Besides, they — the parents — had made money without the assist- ance of such mental finery; and, with the same amount of physical energy, what was to prevent the like success on the part of their children. These unlettered and much to be pitied individuals, consider the best lesson, and indeed the only one VICTORIA. 17 necessary for a child’s welfare, to be one after the parent’s own convictions, viz. : — that all the ener- gies of man, both mental and physical, are intended and required merely for the acquisition of gold, as its possession would insure, in the highest degree, the consummation of all worldly happiness.” But, to give the reader a correct idea of these ministers of the golden calf,” we will furnish a momentary but unexaggerated sketch from the life and conver- sation of one of these idolaters of lucre. During our short stay in a well known tovoi in the colony, a literary gentleman was solicited by a few of his friends to give one of those lectures on the beauties of the poets,” which had been given by him with considerable success in the mother country. He at once assented, with the hope — vain illusory hope ! — of conveying to the inhabit- ants a slight, if only a slight relish for intellectual food, by contributing the first morsel from his own mental garner. To this entertainment one of the wealthiest, and at the same time one of the most ignorant and most infiuential men — who was like- wise a magistrate and an ex-mayor of the town — had, with some difficulty, been prevailed on to im- part, by his presence, an importance to the occa- sion. The multitude, however, were not attracted even by the presence of this important public functionary, who was himself evidently ill at ease and totally out of place in the midst of the very small but select few by whom he was surrounded. c 18 VICTORIA. During the lecture, and after the lecturer had re- cited Wolsey’s farewell to the world, the levia- than of wealth and powder previously alluded to — the hero of the present sketch — the magistrate and ex-mayor of the town, innocently remarked to a gentleman sitting near him, that ‘^Mr. Wolsey appeared to have been very badly used ; but,^^ he continued, who was this Wolsey ? I never heard of him before, — did you ? — who, or what was he Our informant added considerably to our amuse- ment on saying that he replied to his inquisitor by telling him that Mr. Wolsey formerly held a commission in a large and important establishment at the West-end of London.’^ I thought so,^^ re- joined the colonial millionaire; — ^^a commercial traveller, I suppose ? But,’^ he continued, what did he mean by ^ the tender leaves of hope ? ^ I suppose he travelled for the firm of Hope in the tea trade ? The closing supposition proved too much for the gravity of his respondent, whose ingenuity w^as suddenly taxed to find some other than the real cause for a burst of laughter that followed an inquiry of so serious but stimulating a nature. It were neither just nor generous to hold up to ridicule a mind whose lack of knowledge or wisdom might have originated in the neglect or poverty of those who were its guardians in youth. Unfortu- nately, ignorance is generally the parent of so many bad qualities of our nature, that it becomes the bounden duty — although by no means a pleasing VICTORIA. 19 one — of every faithful expositor of the human race to descant on and dissect such failings, simply for the consideration and benefit of the rising genera- tion. We need no other than the case just men- tioned to illustrate the sad effects of ignorance in an opulent and self-sufficient individual. Here we have a man who obtained the highest municipal honor his town coidd bestow — a man possessing almost monarchal influence in his locality — in wealth and power, a very prince ; in knowledge, benevolence, and grace, a very pauper. Arrogant, selfish, and mean to the very verge of contempt, he was at the same time capricious, overbearing, envious, and malicious. Miserable, irritable, and unhappy himself, he neither sympathised with, nor delighted in the ease and happiness of others. As a patron, he was courted by many, but respected by none. When his hand reluctantly tendered a gift it failed to inspire the recipient with gratitude for the favor. Without one virtue to secure the notoriety to which his vanity aspired — like the loss of his own blood was the sacrifice of that gold which alone could purchase his desire. True, an occa- sional handful was drawn from his immense store toward the erection of some public edifice that might emblazon the initials of the donor ; but alas ! while these ungenial and ostentatious gifts may possibly preserve and perpetuate the name of the giver, they want the imperishable qualities which can alone add a mark of respect to his memory. 20 VICTOEIA. It is said this human type of wealth, ignorance, and power — this self- created and imperious monarch and owner of half a million sterling, intends to return to the mother country and the scenes of his youth, for the purpose of ‘Wording it above his betters.’^ When there, will his wealth alone be a passport to the select society for which he is in other respects unfitted? We think not. But time will furnish his colonial Highness with an answer. Those of our readers who are unacquainted with the cause, may reasonably inquire why such men were appointed to the magistracy? The local government had no alternative in the matter. On the discovery of gold and the sudden increase of population in the colony, a large number of magis- trates were immediately required ; and, although a little more care might have been evinced in the selection, men of property, who felt a desire for the honour, were of necessity commissioned. As for municipal distinction, our great City of London may with equal propriety be required to answer why first class merchants invariably decline the gingerbread decorations which are eagerly sought after by those Tom Tits of importance, whose puny pretensions to greatness would otherwise pass through their own circumscribed demesne unknown and unnoticed. Like their great proto- type, therefore, are the towns and cities of our colonies ; and those who aspire to civic honours therein are, for the most part, men with little VICTORIA. 21 minds, large pockets, and capacious stomachs. It is perhaps well that it is so. All things, however small, have their prescribed uses. The painted butterfly in its place and brief season may be as needful and useful to the creation as objects of greater magnitude ; and were it not for the exist- ence of common councilmen, aldermen, and lord mayors, England might lose the high rank and notoriety which — above other nations — she has long maintained, and still maintains, for civic dis- play and its material adjuncts — turtle and venison. Without a lord mayor, what would become of our fat-bellied diner out^^ — of ministerial city ban- quets — of political re-unions, elocutionary sky- rockets, and harmless emblematic crackers — of cabinet toastmaking, personal whitewashings, and internal ablutions — of splendid fetes to foreign allies, and sumptuous entertainments, in turn, to the celebrities of all countries and of all orders ? But, of greater importance than all these, what — ivithoiit a chairman — would become of the nume- rous anniversary dinners, which have the double, object of providing something of a substantial nature both for the patrons and the institutions with which they are connected. Unable, then, to solve propositions that involve matter of so much moment and consideration to the personal comfort of the parties more immediately concerned, we conclude, in the absence of contrary evidence, that lord mayors, aldermen, and common councilmen 22 VICTORIA. are useful as well as ornamental appendages to national greatness. Selfisliness is tlie natural ally of ignorance. Ignorant men are generally selfish men — at least our observations in the colonies lead us to that conclusion. All mankind are no doubt more or less selfish, but the uneducated portion — especially those on whom fortune has smiled — are unques- tionably more selfish than their better informed or more intellectual kinsmen. Sensible men are averse to, and turn in silent disgust from that public show, empty ostentation, or private display which little minds alone delight in. Let a well informed man provoke a discussion with the best of our city showmen on any subject but those of feasting, self-importance, wealth, or those branches of commerce with which they may happen to be connected, and the argument will be brief indeed, for the mover would alone be equal to its continu- ance. If these men, however, were less vain of their little knowledge and great wealth ; if they evinced a stronger desire to do good with what they possess, and displayed a little more modesty in publishing their own pretentions to greatness, but few persons, we think, would be disposed to find faidt with them. But when some lilliputian tea or sugar merchant fills two or three columns of a newspaper with after-dinner small talk, bad grammar, or fulsome praise of some noble of whom he expects a favour, the public may well complain of the want of something better in its place. VICTORIA. 23 But in spirit, as in act, selfishness, above all other features, may be seen at every age and every stage in human nature. From childhood to man- hood — from the cradle to the grave — from the ambitious monarch to the meanest serf — from the oppressive landlord to the unprincipled tenant — from the grasping politician to the cruel privateer — from the heartless profligate, who for personal gratification robs his family, to the wretched miser, who for love of gain robs himself — in every scene, as in every station — in every tribe, as in every nation — in the remote as in the immediate grades and stations of life — from the rude savage to the polished courtier, and from the Hebrew bagman to the Christian bishop, self is the great globular monster — the concealed or visible human spring that impels, guides, and regulates the movements of the world. While the majority of mankind are wholly or partially under its control, none are entirely exempt from its influence. Are not most of our thoughts and actions influenced by selfish motives ? If all were to furnish an honest answer to the foregoing question the affirmatives we ima- gine woidd display a vast majority. Modelled as we are — or rather as we re-model ourselves, with earth our idol and its pleasures our chief delight — the result of such an inquiry would create no surprise in a reflective mind, although it might cause some regret. We cannot help thinking, how- ever, if the human heart contained less of the 24 VICTORIA. stimulating nitre of selfishness it would possess more of real happiness. A very selfish man can never be a very happy man ; for, as he ever pines for some- thing more than he commands, his present state, whatever that state may be, is a discontented one, consequently an unhappy one. But there is one social evil caused by unre- strained selfishness that is greater than all, for it merges from a natural failing into a positive crime. By the concentrated love of self we lose our afiec- tion for friends, and forget our duty to others. Selfishness, in fine, is not only the bane of our love and duty to others, but it likewise proves a blast to present enjoyment, and a barrier to future happiness. At the sacrifice of honor, of peace of mind, and of honesty of purpose, it incites the owners to an uncontrolable desire for personal aggrandizement. The opulent but selfish mer- chant, who has risen from some humble rank, forgets his former position and his present duty, when he declares himself cursed by the existence of his less fortunate and poor relations. The humble peasant, while he ranks no higher, Will mix with others in the same attire ; But, raised by fortune to the wealthy squire. You’ll see how station regulates desire : His rustic joys by regal ones look dim, To whom he stoop’d, he’d now see stoop to him ; So low do past to present friends appear. That each must keep his own and proper sphere. VICTORIA. 25 By twenty steps, and then by twenty more, The selfish squire attains the second floor ; — The summit gain’d, the wish at length draws near That covers twenty thousand pounds a year ; And this secured, ambition makes him try To raise his mansion nearer to the sky ; But as the bubble lets his pride ascend, Death shows him the beginning as the end. In continuation, and before the conclusion of our first impressions of Victoria,” we will make a few general but brief observations concerning Melbourne, Geelong, the climate, &c., as noted by us in the year 1853. But these and other subjects will be found reviewed at greater length in the account of our subsequent visit to the colony. On the discovery of gold in Victoria, Melbourne was not much larger than an English village, or small market town ; and we were somewhat sur- prised to find that during a period of little more than two years it had grown to, and covered that immense space — the extent of which may' be ga- thered from our comparative population tables. The site of the town — had it been for a moment anticipated by the founders at the time of selection, that it would ultimately become the seat of govern- ment and a great commercial city — is ill chosen. It lies low, and without any of the natural advan- tages possessed by places not far distant. All merchant ships, except those of very small tonnage are compelled to anchor in Hobson’s Bay, a dis- tance of about seven miles from the town, there 26 VICTORIA. not being a sufficient depth of water in the narrow winding river, Yarra Yarra, to take them to the wharves. The evils arising from this necessity are many. All goods have to be taken from the bay to the town in barges or lighters ; and this labor is not only attended with additional expense to the importer, but the delay occasioned thereby often entails a loss of a much more serious nature. It not unfrequently happens that after a ship has reached her destination, four, six, and even eight weeks elapse before the merchant can obtain the cargo of which he has received advices. In perish- able articles, or goods suited to particular seasons, these delays often occasion heavy losses — while the immediate delivery of the articles in demand in the market might have insured handsome profits. Besides, a serious inconvenience that arises from the number of lighters required for the trans-ship- ment of cargo is, the great impediment to passenger traffic, produced by the crowded state of a narrow river. Steamers and other passage boats are in- variably delayed, more or less, — in addition to frequent damage to life and property — in the narrow and intricate stream leading to or from Melbourne. If the reader would become more familiar with the personal inconvenience occasioned by the confused and overcrowded state of the Yarra Yarra, let him, on a busy day at noon, suppose Cheapside a river, and himself in an omnibus, or cab — steam, or ferry-boat — charged with some VICTOIIIA. 27 important and immediate dispatch, and anxious to leave town by the half-past twelve o’clock express train ” from Euston-square station ; when, to his utter astonishment and dismay, he suddenly dis- covers the entire stream of conveyances perfectly motionless, and that every inlet, or rather outlet, is closed up with craft of all sizes and description, and therefore impassable. When a detention of half-an-hour, or more, has convinced him that he must fail in his mission and lose his train,” and that to calculate distance by time in a crowded thoroughfare is a dangerous practice, he will then have a tolerably correct idea of a scene daily pre- sented on the Yarra Yarra, and painfully expe- rienced by the actors who are compelled to appear therein. Most of the streets of Melbourne are narrow. There are a few, however, of a good width and well arranged ; for, being formed at right angles, they are easily found or regained. Of public edifices there are but few, a description of which we leave for our second visit, the buildings them- selves and the purposes for which they are intended being alike incomplete. There are numerous large and excellent warehouses and store-rooms in dif- ferent parts of the town. The substantial and extensive exterior of these invest the locality in which they stand with an appearance not unlike that of some parts of Manchester. But, with regard to dwelling houses, shops, &c., there is not 28 VICTORIA. througliout the entire town the slightest approach to uniformity, either in class, elevation, or design. It would be a difficult matter to twin any out of the immense miscellaneous collection of the town- ship, as two houses alike are but seldom, if ever, seen, either jointly or separately. As a colonial wit remarked to us, Australian builders, like glovers, pair their articles by making odd uns — with this difference, he might have continued, that while the latter assort and classify the sizes of what they make, the former mix all together, from adults down to infants. In one place we find a handsome four or five storied building, having on the right a miserable looking edifice of half its dimensions, and on the left an iron or wooden shed standing not more than ten or twelve feet above its base. In another leading street and thoroughfare, we find a lofty and magnificent building, with shop and frontage of the Kegent- street school, having for its neighbour either a single storied hut, or some dirty clothes shop that would disgrace old St. Giles, or our present Holywell- street. To a stranger, and one accustomed to see some- thing like uniformity in the design and elevation of English buildings, the appearance of the streets and houses in Melbourne presents a singular, al- though by no means an agreeable appearance. Whether the fault originated with the government, in not binding the original purchasers of land in a township to certain conditions, is a question we VICTORIA. 29 cannot at this moment decide. It is well known that when a man leases or purchases a piece of land in England for building purposes, he is compelled by articles in the lease or transfer from the original owner, or ground landlord, to erect buildings of a certain class or elevation — the violation of such articles invalidating the proprietor’s claim to the property. In England the articles are even of a more stringent character on crown than on other lands. In Australia, however, a man may build how, or what he please — so long as he does so on his own property. Such a license offers facilities for, and often causes social annoyances as well as public evils ; for it cannot be an agreeable thing for the respect- able proprietor of a handsome building to have the double annoyance of a dirty shed and its low un- washed owner for neighbours ; neither are such approximate inequalities in person and property likely to improve or benefit society, or to add to the pleasures or beauties of the town or city in which they arise. We have heard it stated that, prior to the dis- covery of gold, when the colony was but thinly populated, the government avoided any restrictions in the erection of buildings, for the purpose of inducing the — then poor — immigrants to build places in accordance with their means. But we will not vouch for the accuracy of this until we have better and official authority for its confirmation. 30 VICTORIA. Geelong has been endowed by nature with ad- vantages which could not be secured by art, and which Melbourne can never possess — advantages that in every respect would have entitled her to rank as the first city in Victoria, had Melbourne not been at the time of proclaiming the separation of the colony from New South Wales the more im- portant place of the two, and consequently fixed on as the seat of government. In place of the narrow intricate river of Melbourne, Geelong is fronted by a fine expansive bay, of sufficient width and depth for the formation of docks that would equal in extent, and excel in their local proximity to the town, any in the United Kingdom. As a London journal justly observed, Geelong will some day be the Liverpool of Australia.'’^ The situation is also vastly superior to that of Mel- bourne. There is a gradual ascent from the mouth of the bay to the summit of the town, the whole of which is refreshed, and the atmosphere purified, by the morning and evening sea breeze ; and this, after a semi-tropical day, or a suffocating hot wind, is a luxury that may easily be imagined — independently of the benefit to health which the inhabitants derive therefrom. At present, however, there is a temporary impediment to the commercial progress of this improving town. No ships, except those of small tonnage, can approach within five or six miles of the wharves, owing to the existence of a small VICTORIA. 31 shoal or sand bank — the removal of which would at once allow of five hundred ships to lie at anchor within as many yards of the town. That such an obstacle — admitted even by the ruling powers to be capable of removal at a trifiing expense, com- pared with the benefits to be derived therefrom — should have been allowed to remain so long, is a positive disgrace to those who have the power to secure the accomplishment of an object of such immense importance to the colony. This, and other evils of equal magnitude, will fail to exist so soon as the press and public opinion shall have acquired their legitimate corrective power, and are capable of exercising that whole- some influence over men and matter that has raised England to her present independent position, and made the freedom and liberties of her people the admiration and envy of other nations. The streets of Geelong are well laid out and of good width ; but the houses have the same sin- gular appearance and are equally objectionable with those of Melbourne, owing to their want of uniformity in elevation and design. There are, however, some good substantial buildings ; and so soon as the miserable sheds that adjoin or surroimd them shall be removed — a work which time and the requirements of the inhabitants will no doubt accomplish — Geelong will be superior in every- thing but the number of her inhabitants to her sister town. The market square — or rather the 32 VICTORIA. large open space assigned and left for the purpose of a square — for neither the place nor the surround- ing houses have at present any claim to the title — might be made a really useful as well as an orna- mental spot, for being situated in the centre of the town, a tasteful enclosure, in place of the few stumps of old trees that peep just above the sur- face, would not only have a pleasing effect and greatly improve the aspect of the locality, but would likewise benefit the fine open streets abutting therefrom. Altogether, the outline for a fine city has been supplied, and when time, taste, and labor shall have perfected the details — and the present obstruction to the shipping is removed — Geelong will not suffer by a comparison with any commer- cial town of equal size in the United Kingdom. Of the public institutions we defer our notice to a future period. It is by no means an agreeable thing for public writers to find themselves opposed to public opinion. Public opinion on important subjects is generally the correct one. Occasional instances are recorded in which future generations of jurors quash the judgments of their forefathers, and, by reversing the verdicts given antecedent to their own time, pronounce former minorities to be right. These cases are of rare occurrence ; still they go to prove that majorities are not always right. In addition to this the subject in question is not exactly a home- made one ; for the opinion on which we suppose VICTORIA. 33 ourselves at issue with the British public is one founded by the latter on report only — and that from an opposite land. By writers great and small, public and private, at home and abroad — from the prince to the peasant, and from the historian to the penny-a-liner — ^Aus- tralia has been pronounced, the finest climate in the world.’’ Unable to speak of all other climates from our own experience, but having traversed a larger portion of the globe than those whose pens — not persons — ^have compassed it, truth compels us to say, if Australia be the finest climate in the world, there are other climates — including those of Van Diemen’s Land and New Zealand, of which we shall speak at a future period — that, in our opinion, belong to a better world. But, in speaking of the climate of Australia, our remarks are not exclusively confined to Victoria, but also to New South Wales, &c. Considered altogether, — ^having ourselves experienced the alternate seasons in each locality — ^we pronounce Australia, for reasons we shall assign, not only to be not the finest climate in the world, but to be inferior to any other with which we are personally acquainted. We are there- fore totally at a loss to account for those favorable sketches and highly colored pictures of the comitry which not only impressed us with opinions contrary to our present conviction, but which, during our residence in the Colonies, prevented us for some time from arriving at conclusions directly opposed D 34 VICTORIA. to former impressions. No doubt many of the extravagant eulogiums that have been written and circulated, either originated with, or were penned by private and interested persons. Some of the more prominent and influential accounts probably originated with a higher motive — that of populating a ivealthy and extensive eolony, hy holding out every hind of temptationy real and imaginary, that would he likely to draw the surplus and unemployed population of the United Kingdom to a land in whieh they might benefit themselves as well as distant branches of the mother country. That writers in such a cause might successfully plead in justification of their praises, is not a question for us to decide. We have simply to record the truth, according to our belief ; and this we will do, to the best of our ability, whatever opinions may prevail to the contrary. While speaking calmly and impartially of the Colonies and their inhabitants, or exposing the failings or defects of either, we do not for a moment wish nor intend to check emigration. On the contrary, it will probably be found that we are even stronger advocates for its extension than those whose im- measured praises would rather tend to retard than advance it. God forbid that we should so forget our duty and neglect our advice to thousands of our half paid and half starved laborers and me- chanics, as to say anything that would stay them from a country where they will not only And full employment, but where they will receive that VICTORIA. 35 handsome remuneration for their labor which, with industry and sobriety, would enable them to live in present comfort and future ease. No. We will merely sketch the groundwork and objects of the vast and unfinished surface as we find them, so that our readers, or the future spectators of the scene may not be disappointed with the picture. In pronouncing Australia an ungenial climate, we do not declare it to be positively unhealthy. On the contrary, we believe it conducive to health for a season, only that the season is of short duration. The excessive heat of the summer months, and the want of atmospheric humidity are the holy stones that imperceptibly wear out the machine of life, although they may not produce any organic disease in the machinery so long as it lasts. Great age is but seldom attained either by the native or the settler. As for the early shoots of human nature which arrive from the mother country — they become like hot-house plants that are forced to maturity at an early age ; but they appear deficient in that natural stamina which can alone preserve their beauty and prolong their exist- ence. Colonel Munday justly observes that ^Ghe females attain maturity with a degree of precocity which is sure to react in after life. The fair, fresh rose-bud of fifteen or sixteen will be full blown next summer ; but, alas ! often shows the first symptoms of decay at an age when the English girl will scarcely have reached perfection. Doubtless a 36 VICTORIA. certain degree of atmospheric humidity is necessary for the preservation of the human skin ; for where is to be seen such brilliancy of complexion as in our own misty native islands ? — and it is a bril- liancy that wears well, not a mere coruscation gone almost as soon as seen. But in a sultry and dry climate beauty and bloom are not so evergreen.’^ The frequent ruinous disasters that befal the squat- ters, owing to the heat of the climate, want of water, and destructive bush-fires are so truthfully described by the same writer, who never fails to praise the country when he can, that a quotation will furnish our own evidence and opinion on the subject : — ‘‘ Of all the features of Australian climatology, drought is the most prominent and forbidding. I find in my diaries several periods of four and five months without one drop of rain ; live stock and grain crops ruined; the country like tinder, sus- ceptible to the smallest spark, and, at the back of every puff of high wind, blazing in all directions ; well if the bush-fire encroach not on the farms, as is too often the case, consuming stacks, fences, standing crops, out-houses, cattle, and even human beings.'’^ In April 1849, the sun set at Sydney for several weeks successively in a lurid haze of smoke. During his last two hours above the horizon, the weakest eye might gaze unwinking at his rayless disk. The whole West was either in flames or smouldering. VICTORIA. 37 In January 1850, during a lengthened drought, the north shore of the harbour was on fire for ten or twelve days. At night it looked like a line of twenty or thirty huge furnaces, extending over some fifteen miles. The city was shrouded in smoke, and the air was pervaded with the aromatic odour of the burning gum-trees. Many poor settlers would have been ruined but for a liberal subscrip- tion raised for the sufferers. In 1851, hundreds of miles of country in the district of Port Philip were included in one vast conflagration, and as many families brought to destitution by the destruction of their property. The heavens were obscured for a long period by a canopy of smoke, the soot falling on board vessels at sea one hundred and fifty miles distant from the land. When the rain does o^omQ it comes with a vengeance, sometimes carrying away, in its torrents, roads, gardens, walls, palings, and bridges, which had proved invulnerable to the preceding bush-fires. Every highway becomes a river, every by-way a brook, every bank a cataract. The thunder cracks right over head like the report of a gun. Hailstones come rattling down an inch long, knocking over yoimg live-stock and domestic poultry, levelling orange orchards and vineyards, breaking windows and human heads ; still, in twenty-four hours, or less, the dust is blowing about as bad as ever. JSTo one who has not lived in a coimtry liable to drought can appreciate the eagerness with which every assemblage of clouds 38 VICTORIA. is watched ; with what feelings of disappointment their breaking up without yielding a drop is accom- panied ; with what thankfulness the boon of mo- derate rain and showers is received when it does come. ‘ My word/ cries the inland squatter, ‘ this will fill the water-holes rarely, and save me a thou- sand or two head of stock, which would otherwise have died for want of water. ^ He is delighted with the gift, though he may possibly lose two or three horses, if not his own life, in attempting to cross the bottom, where yesterday there was nothing to be seen moister than a glaring white sand, hot enough to boil a retort.^’ But the long droughts, excessive heat, hot winds, bush-fires, &c., which are peculiar to Australia, are more serious and destructive to the agricultural interests and squatters stock, and have a more in- jurious effect on the landed proprietor’s purse than his person. Although attended with considerable personal inconvenience and occasional injury, these atmospheric excesses and transitions tend rather to cripple or retard the progress of agriculture than to inflict any serious or immediate danger on the human frame. We entirely agree with the subsequent observations of the writer we have just quoted, who having truthfully described some of the inconveniences which arise from a semi-tropical summer, goes on to state that ‘^the Australian autumn and winter will be found altogether de- lightful.” These expressions are in unison with VICTORIA. 39 our own feelings and opinion on the subject. An Australian autumn is equal in all respects, if not superior to an English one ; while an English winter is colder and altogether less agreeable than an antipodal one. We have already described the causes which prevent the creation of a refined or intellectual taste on the part of the illiterate residents in the colony, as also the immediate and monetary object that retards the cultivation or advancement of any of the higher faculties of the mind on the part of those — although but a small minority of the popu- lation — by whom the fruit of useful knowledge had been tasted before leaving the mother country, and who are convinced of the superior advantages of what they nevertheless neglect for — gain. But the great cause, above all others, of the unintellectual as well as the immoral state of society in Australia may be found in the fact that a very large majority of her inhabitants are composed — partly of those who have been either bred in vice or contaminated by their association with it, and others whose minds have been abused or poluted before leaving their native land. Poluted by what, or by whom ? — By the dregs of the press ! A large proportion of the inhabitants, as we have already stated, comprise those whose ignorance is their leading characteristic, and others who prove that ‘dittle knowledge is a dangerous thing,^’ and that total ignorance were better than the 40 VICTORIA. unripened and bitter fruit produced by tbe early seeds of democratic and revolutionary doctrines, and tbe pernicious influence exercised by those who entertain them. But we advise those who question the permanent evils arising from trashy and im- moral literature, and who require striking demon- stration to dissipate their doubts, to traverse, as we have, the length and breadth of the populated parts of the Australian colonies ; they will then discover from actual observation the demoralising effects produced on the minds and habits of the working classes, and the growing evils arising through having at an early age imbibed the intoxicating poisons dispensed and disseminated by low and un- principled publications ; — they wdll then discover that thousands of the youthful branches of their own countrymen and of the present generation have had their minds polluted, their morals cor- rupted, and their talents partially, if not wholly perverted, by a mass of impure matter which dur- ing the greater part of the last thirty years has been vomited from the disorganised bowels of an unhealthy press, as wholesome food for an enlightened people ! From the tent to the city — from the squatter’s station to the storekeeper’s cupboard — from the digger’s hut to the merchant’s drawing- room, they will find that the Reynolds or the Eugene Sue class of fables, and Lloyd’s Sunday Newspaper, form the chief, and in many cases, the only literary feature of the resident’s habitation. VICTOIITA. 41 Yes ; such is the principal mental stock of these rich and extensive Colonies. One would suppose them to be the receptacle for all the accumulated literary sweepings of the United Kingdom. And such would appear to be the fact ; for but little else is either imported or inquired for. Let the blame, however, for this depraved literary taste rest with the originators — the writers, not the readers. The mischievous effects produced by the venal portion of the British press might naturally sug- gest the following question, viz. : — Did not the respectable part of the English press and people prove and exercise a superior power over the baser and poorer half, what at present would be the state of Great Britain ? Instead of being above, would she not be on a level with, or below other nations ? There may be found in England both writers, pro- fessors, readers, and pupils of democratic principles and revolutionary doctrines — to which low and immoral literature of any description has a direct tendency. But, fortunately for the security and welfare of the British empire, these persons form but a small minority of her population; and al- though the reduced ranks of this once rather for- midable body still retain the names of a few influ- ential individuals — influential with the poor and uneducated — and some public characters of the rabble creation, they judiciously disguise or conceal the inflammable side of their doctrines in order to avoid the fate of many of their predecessors — 42 VICTORIA. a total extinction in the tide of popular indig- nation. In ambush, there are doubtless some descendants of the O’Connell or O’Connor school ; and there ever will be, so long as envy, unscrupu- lous selfishness, and great but prostituted talents conspire to make mob orators the deceived and the deceivers. The better the form of existing govern- ments, the more abusive and malignant will be found those fiery demagogues who envy in others the honesty they want themselves, and who merely aspire to place for emolument ; and to power with a view to create or perpetuate on an extended scale the abuses they decry. But these political mountebanks who study to delude the ignorant and unwary — these oratorical aeronauts and occa- sional disturbers of the peace would have but a short public existence, and would soon fall into merited insignificance and obscurity, if they were dependent on themselves alone for their popularity. Deprived of their paid trumpeters — ^^vriters to publish and defend their doctrines — ^the ringleaders in any and every unprincipled scheme — ^whether political, social; or commercial — ^would prove as harmless as butterflies, and lose their transient position and showy complexion at the close of their own brief season. Unfortunately, the leaders of any cause however dark, or the teachers of any theory however fallacious — the advocates of any practice, however base, will not fail in their de- signs for the want of literary organs to espouse VICTORIA. 43 tlieir cause, so long as the consideration be equal to the importance of the matter in hand. Un- assisted by the prostituted talents of his paid agents, O’Connell would not have inflicted such lasting misery on his country ; nor would he for so many years have drawn the hard-earned pence from his starving countrymen whom he professed to benefit. Alas ! for his departed greatness ! Where shall we look for a single relic of his glory ? Let the millions whom he deceived and plundered answer; — let the undefiled consciences of his be- loved and time-serving priests reply ; — or above all, let those mortal meteors of the age who court popularity in order to obtain some selfish end — let them pause for a reply. The masked demagogues of the present day would find no difficulty — did the time favor their designs — in obtaining writers who, for a consideration, would not hesitate to direct their weapons against the constitution under which they hold their liberties, or even to malign the character or question the purity of one of the most amiable and virtuous monarchs that ever graced the English throne. The lovers of notoriety and power whose merits may be unequal to their desires, and who may fail to realize their wishes by legitimate and honorable means, will not scruple to pursue any course by which their vanity may be gratified or their selfish- ness feasted. And in the by-lanes and corners of literature there may always be found certain small 44 VICTORIA. groups of literary cads or lookers out, ready on the shortest notice to do any little job that may be required of them. Englishmen would not be so often disgusted with the inflammable doctrines and trashy harangues of some low popularity hunter, were it not for the marketable services of those mercenary scribblers who would readily sacrifice a people^s morals or a country’s good for personal gain. The seed of the honest husbandman might take root and multiply without danger from ab- straction, were it not for the existence of that black- feathered tribe who are ever watching a favorable opportunity to pounce upon and destroy the hopes of the unguarded. So would the noble standard of our ancient literature retain and add to its former glory, were it not endangered by those literary crows whose polluted quills are ever ready to pander to a vitiated taste. In none of the British dependencies — probably in no part of Great Britain — are the demoralizing fruits arising from the early seeds sown by the degraded portion of our press so painfully apparent as in the Australian colonies — more especially in the colony of Victoria. This proves that even the greatest blessings are open to the greatest abuses. While the daily and principal portion of the weekly newspaper press of this country may re- spectively and truly be termed the chief justice and the guardian of society, its unworthy followers the Sunday newspapers, with but few exceptions. VICTORIA 45 tend rather to demoralize than improve it. If, with the respectable part of the press, they were more frequently to picture the foibles of their own readers, instead of for ever painting in the blackest dye their many persecutions, and the remorseless tyranny of their proud persecutors, it would then be but fair and reasonable to suppose that their columns were not tainted by sinister motives. But no ; this would not be palatable to their patrons — the working classes. Equality ! fraternity ! toge- ther with every other revolutionary howl, or social or political delusion, are much more likely to accord with the feelings of their readers than anything of a more rational character ; and the writers have a greater respect for their property than to lessen its value by a more exalted course — although they must be quite aware that their wholesale denuncia- tions and fiery compositions are constantly sowing the seed of discontent and disaffection in the minds of those who, being too illiterate to form correct opinions of their own, are unfortunately too ready to receive and adopt the fallacious doctrines of others. In a word, the Sunday newspapers, with the exceptions alluded to, are a curse to society. They pot only destroy, in many noble minds, loyalty to the throne, proper respect to superiors, and a brotherly love for each other ; but they also turn them from their duty to God, by creating an improper feeling towards his creatures, and a total disregard for a proper observance of the Sabbath day. 46 VICTORIA. If the principal part of those connected with the low Sunday newspapers are not absolute infidels, their own writings would lead an impartial reader to consider them but one remove from the title, — while such writers cannot fail to draw their deluded patrons to the lamentable and hopeless condition consequent on their profession. Nevertheless, some of these men are popular. Popular ! — ^with whom ? Popularity in its unrestricted and proper .sense is not merely favor with any particular class of indiYi- duals, unless that class should happen to represent a majority of the entire country or nation to which it belongs. And with whom are the editors alluded to popular ? With those only whose favor is more readily and securely won by pandering to the passions than by appealing to the intellect. And although such writers cause mischief enough in their own immediate circle, and create most of the evils which tend to unsettle the minds of their poor subscribers, with no other class are their pub- lications either read or recognised. Neither the papers nor the proprietors are either known or respected beyond their own circumscribed sphere. True ; literary men of acknowledged talent occa- sionally connect themselves with, or are induced for a handsome consideration to prostitute their abilities in editing these low papers and trashy periodicals — a recent instance of which may be within the knowledge of some of our readers — but men who thus sacrifice the small claim to respect- VICTORIA. 47 ability that they may have previously acquired, are mostly those who are indebted for their public position rather to some prize in the fortunes of chance than to the exercise of genius ; for — like a gorgeous stage spectacle that owes its success to the decorator^s art — the transitory fame of these writers may generally be traced to circmnstances apart from real merit. Such strong and unqualified expressions on the part of those so humble and unaspiring as ourselves, will, no doubt, arouse the indignation of that part of the press to which our observations apply. We cannot help this. The certainty of provoking the united censure of the entire body would neither prevent us from publishing the effects produced by their perverted talents, nor induce us to modify in the slightest degree the tone of our honest opinion. Independent alike of party, party purpose, or place, our pen is not influenced by either ; and we seek no higher return for our labor than that which is usually awarded to those who work for the public, and use only the materials of truth. Having reverted chiefly to the pernicious ten- dency the venal portion of a newspaper press has on the minds of the uneducated part of the com- munity, it may not be considered irrelevant to one of the leading objects of our work- — that of ten- dering any suggestion by which the condition of the working and middle classes may be improved — to refer to another kind of literature which, with 48 VICTORIA. more refined and intellectual readers, may not pro- duce evils of equal magnitude with the former, but which will nevertheless be found to exercise a demoralising, though indirect influence over the feelings and habits of its readers. Let it be under- stood, before we proceed, that we are not advocates for the total extinction of all works of fiction. On the contrary we consider that the better class of such productions which have no immoral tendency, may contribute to the welfare while they meet the requirements of the community, and that they are as necessary to the wants and enjoyments of a people, and add more to the amusements, if not to the comforts of life, than a course of fanciful tartlets and jellies, or a sumptuous dessert, after a substantial meal. Our remarks are intended to apply only to the large and increasing number of trashy novels which at present find a ready sale, and are eagerly sought after by persons in every grade of society — especially by the junior branches. Who can at present reflect with unalloyed pleasure on the rapid strides of invention of the nineteenth century — ^what literary man of the present day, who feels an interest in the intellectual progress of society beyond mere personal gain, can view with classic pride England's daily advances in science, while some beardless youth can readily command for a few sheets of fulsome romance a larger sum than the immortal Milton obtained for his Para- dise Lost ? While a host of romantic young VICTOIIIA. 49 ladies and ^^fast^’ gentlemen dive with avidity into the ‘^Mysteries of Paris/’ and feast freely, and with increased relish, on the revolting horrors and accumulated filth to be found in such productions, surely the most sensible part of the community cannot but feel bitter regret for the degenerate taste of the other half ; and while so many of the senior branches — men of years and station — parents, guardians, employers, and others in good society — pronomice history dry,” and poetry a bore,” and declare that our best periodi- cals and first-class magazines are uninteresting, no wonder one of our best modern writers should declare that — there is no country in the world the inhabitants of which know so little of the institutions, the laws, and the government under which they live as the English.” The same writer goes on to observe that — when the popular nature of the constitution is considered the ignorance of the people on this subject — and indeed on all other subjects but that of money-making — is almost miraculous. It is not confined to classes which are supposed to be ignorant and uneducated, but it extends to those in whom such ignorance is not only disgraceful but criminal. It is impossible to go into middle class society without hearing the strangest falsehoods propounded as facts, and the most absurd inferences drawn from them, whenever the conversation turns upon history or politics. A manufacturer, a wholesale dealer, a surgeon, or E 50 VICTORIA. any otlier person giving employment to others, might be pardoned for knowing less of his own country and its institutions than a German or a Frenchman, were not his ignorance contagious, and sometimes fatal in its consequences. We will simply add to these remarks, which emanated from the editorial pen of one connected with a leading journal, our belief — for the consideration of those who neglect substantial literary food and useful knowledge for unwholesome garbage — that the majority of romantic adventures, uneven and unhappy love matches, elopements, seductions, and even suicides, which occasionally cause so much misery to parents and families, have their origin in, or are precipitated by the intoxicating but odious vapours inhaled from the unnatural and heated tales of the fulsome publications to which we have alluded. By speaking in condemnatory terms of fulsome romances and trashy publications, let it not be supposed that our observations apply to all litera- ture of a low price. We intend the word trashy to include unwholesome and immoral works of any and every description or price. Many of our cheapest rank with many of our best publications, because they have a moral tendency, and because they not only amuse but improve the mind — and, more than all, because they are within the reach of the poor and those with whom an increase of knowledge would be both a social blessing and a VICTORIA. 51 national boon. It would be unfair and invidious in us to particularise any periodical or periodicals, either for the purpose of praise or censure, although we could name several cheap and valuable publica- tions which are largely patronised by the middle classes — publications which, if extensively known and read by the poor in place of low and scurrilous Sunday newspapers, could not fail to produce social and mental benefits where they are mostly needed. Half the grievances in the world are sentimental grievances ; and half the virtues and vices in the world are either ancestral or parental ones. The youthful or junior part of a generation are the inheritors, rather than the originators. Example is better than precept ; and a good example will insure a larger number of faithful followers than can be secured by a good sermon. Virtue being the cultivated vine, or conservatory shoot and household gem, rather than a wild and growing instinct of nature, we are more likely to follow good qualities than to generate them, although they may in some instances be neglected or aban- doned in maturity. The taste, the habits, the manners, the failings — indeed the good or evil qualities of any class or complexion, which adorn or disfigure the human race, may — like some en- tailed inheritance — generally be traced to a former and relative owner, as the first step to or ground- work of their title but seldom originate with the immediate possessor. 52 VICTORIA. Wlio can doubt that the knavery, immorality, and all other social, commercial, and political evils which are to be found in Australia — not only in Australia, but in any and every other land — are the offshoots or after-crops which spring either from early association, bad example, or want of moral training ? The history of an Australian murderer will generally prove the culprit to have entered on the highway to his awful goal at an early date — ^probably before he had left, or been expelled, the mother country. The rogue or gam- bler in a foreign land, had no doubt been one or the other, or perhaps both, in his own. Social serpents and political agitators at home will not be found family protectors or public peace-makers when abroad. No. The actors and the acts have, each and all, some antecedent to which they are related in a greater or lesser degree, and the first connecting link may generally be traced to the want of good or the influence of bad example at an early age. Those who feel an interest in the future welfare of their children and their country should remem- ber that the liberal education of the former or an extravagant outlay in the latter will not — alone — accomplish what they desire. By good moral training,’^ says a modern writer, ‘‘ by kindly actions which shun the guise of ostentation — ^by words of sympathy, genuine and unaffected — parents, mas- ters, and employers may make those around and VICTOHIA. 53 below them not only more diligent and faitliful in their respective duties, but they will also make them better men and better subjects/’ Parents often regard others as the originators of any im- perfections which may present themselves in their children ; and they frequently attribute to the monitor or commercial instructor of such children not only the discovery of any bad quality, but they also lay the came entirely at the master’s door, although it might have merely opened a stronger light on growing evils created or neglected under their own paternal roof. The earliest im- pressions on the mind are generally the most per- manent ; and although they may for a time be partially obscured, or even perverted by the changes and allurements of life, their effect is but seldom, if ever, wholly effaced. The sacred injunction of ‘^Traill up a child in the way he should go, and he will not depart from it ” has been so fully and frequently exemplified by proof, that ft will merely be necessary to refer our readers to our own simple and — to the best of our ability and belief — faithful account of the Australian population for a further illustration of the moral precept. There, are many, however, with whom the pre- ceding remarks may suggest the following question — How does it happen that a prodigal or dis- obedient son frequently descends from the most affectionate and irreproachable parent? The ex- ception or exceptions to every rule must, of course. 54 VICTORIA. yield an affirmative to such an interrogation ; but it may be fairly assumed that the subjects of pro- digality or disobedience are more numerous, in the proportion of at least five to one, in those gay or tinsel-minded circles in which the junior branches find no moral principle propounded, and have no good example to follow. Then let it be borne in mind by that parent who would shelter or doubt the appearance of any bad quality in his child, by attributing its discovery to the caprice of his tutor, that an impartial observer may possibly regard it as the ripening fruit of his own garden, or the growing weeds produced by neglect or mismanage- ment. Should a parent forget, at an early period, to prepare in his son’s mind the way to a substan- tial foundation, or omit to cultivate the path by the force of good example, there will be but faint hope of its subsequent formation. If the proper principles be not instilled before the youth enters on his commercial or scientific career, the chance of their future installation will be but small indeed; for although, in the spring of life, opportunities occur for beautifying the intellect and increasing the amount of useful knowledge, they are but seldom, if ever, embraced, if a foretaste of their utility has not been previously acquired. Without the vital spirit of true morality be imparted by the parent in a child’s progress through life, the chances are at least two to one in favor of the enemy. VICTOllIA. Those parents, masters, and employers who are anxious to see our Colonies peopled with a better — that is, a more upright and honest class of men — should endeavour to infuse into the minds of their dependants that which would prove a mental barrier — to stay them from those schools of vice with which the great English metropolis abound. Such places not only lead the mechanic, the young tradesman, the professional pupil, or the scholar from the sacred paths of virtue, but likewise pervert the mental faculties, prostrate the physical energies, and increase the distance and fortify the difficulties on the way to every great and honorable distinction in the drama of life. Such places deter and hold back the frequenters from noble aspirations — as- pirations more wholesome, more legitimate, and in all respects more beneficial in their results both to mind, body, and soul ; for the frequenters of such places not only waste their time and money, but they waste everything that can impart a bloom to the intelligence of youth, or vigour to the years of manhood. What are these saloons and casinos^ which annually spring up in the metropolis in some new form, but the originators and harbin- gers of the very worst description of vice and immorality — where thousands of respectable youths are deprived of their honorable title, seduced by the allurements of the scene, and finally made the victims of dishonest and abandoned practitioners — the first step, in too many cases, to their total 56 VICTORIA. ruin. It must be a matter of regret to all morally disposed persons that there is no legislative enact- ment in which the authorities can arm themselves with power to close such dens of dissipation and obscenity. The mischief caused to youth by visiting these places — the nightly resorts of pickpockets and prostitutes — is incalculable. With young men and citizens — especially with those who have no protecting power, beyond the dictates of their own inclinations, to guide or govern them after the business of the day — such places generally lead to extravagance ; and extravagance is often the pre- cursor of dishonesty; and dishonesty, it is well known, is the parent of ruin. W e would briefly refer to another custom which tends to impair the morality, if not to weaken the probity of the practitioners — a custom which, within the last few years, has been gaining ground with many of our speculative young men. We allude to the practice of ^^making betting books.^’ True, the working and middle classes may plead, in justification of such a practice, that they are only following the track of many of their betters — men of rank and station. We can only regret the existence of that fashionable species of gambling which will admit of such a plea being placed on record; and we regret still more that the recent legislative measure, which placed a temporary check on low betting houses, did not also apply to betting in general, without reference either to VICTOTlIvV. 57 station or denomination. Can anything be more absurd — we might almost say dishonest, for such practices are a near approach to dishonesty — than a young man in a situation of fifty, seventy, or eighty pounds a year, making bets on a single race to the amount of several hundreds of pounds ! W e have known not only of one or two such cases, but of many. But apart from the general result of such folly, let us weigh the subject — as all such matters should be weighed — ^by moral principle. We would ask employers whether such juvenile trading without capital is not only wrong in prin- ciple, but whether it is not an absolute infringe- ment of duty on the part of their servants ? The individual disposition to serve oneself first is but natural, and when the servant becomes a secret trader on his own account, the master must be the sufferer — even if it be but in loss of time or labor. The youth whose whole facidties are at fever heat, in the hope of winning fifty or a hundred pounds on a single race, which the brief space of a few minutes will decide, will not — ^nay, cannot give his undivided attention to one whom he is pledged to serve faithfully at so much per annum. W e would advise all employers who have a regard to their own interest, as well as for the welfare of their assistants, to look to this. Out of one evil spring many. And than this practice of betting nothing can have a more dangerous tendency on the mind of youth. 58 VICTORIA. Yet how are such evils prevented and opposite results accomplished ? It can hardly be expected that the junior part of a community should benefit by the force of good example, honest principles, upright dealing, and moral training, while so many parents, masters, and employers stand in need of these things themselves. It would be unreason- able to expect of a profligate or dishonest parent or master a well trained child, or a faithful and upright servant. Dependants take their tone from those above them ; and the child who has vice for his father — to be virtuous, must be disobedient. And how many jparents and employers are there in the commercial arena — some of whom stand high, very high with the world — who, deeming dishonesty the surest way to advancement, embrace it rather as a virtue than a vice. Mark, for in- stance, the innumerable tricks, puffs, and wilful falsehood practised by some of the modern trades- men or bubble-blowers of the day — men who pro- fessing to vend their goods at ten, fifteen, or twenty per cent, less than their value, are in reality study- ing the most deceptive means for securing thirty, forty, or fifty more, or so much more than unpre- tending but more respectable neighbours. But, apart from every honest principle, we would ask, what does such a system effect ? Does it not more frequently defeat than attain the object of the party adopting it ? The liar at once sacrifices his own honor, and when detected, he also sacrifices VICTORIA. 59 tlie faith of his customer. Suspicion is, in most cases, attended ‘with fear ; and to suspect those with whom we wish to do business, is frequently to deter us from doing it. Even in the most trivial matters, exaggeration and falsehood are now so frequently resorted to, that their pernicious fruits seem almost to grow imperceptibly in men’s nature. Dissimulation at its present pace will soon become habitual ; for even in the ordinary discus- sions of social life — although there be no personal motive to serve — the speakers constantly employ falsehood, without even being aware of it. Yet many will note in others what they unconsciously, or willingly practise themselves. So much again for the influence of example. It proves that the want of moral resolution, as a ruling principle of action, is one of the greatest defects in human nature. Most of us know what is right — many feel disposed to do what is right — but, through the want of a little moral courage, there are but few indeed with whom wisdom and strength of mind are proof against temptation, and who are not sometimes induced to act contrary to what they know to be right. This proceeds not from a want of knowledge of a duty we owe ourselves, but from the abuse of it — originating in the neglect of our early obligations to our Creator. Why not a suffi- cient restraint on our actions to bridle our inclina- tions, or to resist the temptation of others ? The influence of pernicious example, and the want of 60 VICTORIA. instant courage to resist it prepare the way to the ruin of thousands. Nor is this frailty in human nature a feature less prominent in manhood than in youth. In concluding our first impressions’^ of the colony of Victoria, it is necessary to remind those of our readers who may consider the gist of our observations to apply rather to the habits and character of the inhabitants than to the progress and position of the country, that it is usual to regard with greater interest the character than the habitation of a newly made acquaintance, and that visitors generally note the manners or sketch the vices or virtues of their host, before they proceed to review the style of his residence or the peculiar features of his domain. Besides which, the moral, social, political, and commercial greatness of a country spring from the people themselves, not from the land they inhabit — even though the re- gion be a golden one. No country can arrive at, or maintain permanent commercial prosperity, unless the inhabitants possess and properly apply the elements of success. And to hold a high posi- tion with kindred states or spirits, nations, like individuals, must command and merit a character for honesty, not only in profession, but also in action. That an unprincipled and profligate com- munity — however wealthy — can take a high rank in the scale of nations, we believe as impossible as that the world would consider an individual who VICTORIA. G1 had lost his character for integrity to be a person wortliy of trust. The colony of Victoria has all the elements of greatness, but will never become great, so long as her inhabitants continue in their present course, and embrace and practice dis- honesty rather as a virtue than a vice. Strong in this belief, we have in our preceding remarks dwelt at greater length on the barriers which impede the greatness of the colony than on the colony itself ; and we shall only be too happy, after the abate- ment of the present excited and reckless state of the people, to note a favorable change in the settlers themselves — without which the country will remain an uncultivated, though not a barren land, and its residents nothing but unscrupulous gamblers. SECOJ^'D IMPEESSIOI^’S OF YICTOEIA. In newly populated countries or colonies a little time has been known to effect great changes. Even so with Australia — more especially with the colony of Victoria, of which we now speak. During the short space that divides the first from our present visit — a period of less than two years — ^not only great changes, but great and visible improve- ments have taken place both in persons and places. Indeed there has been a perceptible move in the right direction with regard to almost everything and everybody. From the digger in his tent to the merchant in his store ; — from the governor and his attendants to the council and its members ; — from the administrative to the executive, and from the highest in authority to the meanest official, a marked advance has been made toward the general interests of the colony and its inhabitants. In all — except the climate itself — a striking improve- ment is observable. True ; the country has not G4 VICTORIA. been re-modelled, nor its people replaced, but tlie aspect of both are more inviting than formerly. The elements of vice and immorality are still here, although they appear to have been somewhat checked — ^let us hope reduced. Instead of a curse, — misfortune sometimes proves a blessing ; for it enables the sufferers to reflect on their present state and serves as a wholesome lesson in the future. The commercial crisis which we previ- ously predicted, and which has now arrived and brought with it the fall of thousands of adven- turers who speculated without capital and without principle, has been and will continue to be of great benefit to the colony, although it may produce a temporary pressure even with those whose means enable them to withstand the shock. A more healthy state of the country is already visible. Though colonial rogues have not grown upright, nor sabbath-breakers turned saints, nor profligates become pure, honesty and good conduct appear to be a little more respected. Swindling, dissipation, and other relative vices are not so openly and im- pudently practised and encouraged, nor allowed to remain so entirely unnoticed as heretofore. Travellers may now venture in many, or rather in most parts of the colony, and pursue their course without the fear of being stuck up (robbed) or murdered ; and even a storekeeper on the diggings is permitted to take his rest at night without being compelled, as a necessary guard to his person and VICTORIA. 65 230cket, to fortify liis j)illow with a revolver. Per- sonal and social comforts — formerly unattainable — are occasionally within the reach of those who have the monetary means to secure them. A gentleman has not at all times to submit to the indignity of sleeping, or rather lying, in a room with some half dozen human strangers together with countless living things of a smaller but not less objectionable species. The requirements of the people may at present be satisfied with something at least approaching to civilization. Now that the condition of the colony has been calmly considered, and affairs have assumed a more settled state, that great leveller of monopoly, that commercial and social standard-bearer and public benefactor — competition — has at length appeared, and satisfied masses as well as individuals that to secure a profitable and permanent position for themselves they must study the interests and contribute to the comforts of their customers. People have not, as formerly, to beg for accom- modation anywhere at any j)rice ; neither have they so frequently to submit to such daring and unheard-of extortion, or be compelled at a mo- ment’s notice to leave their hotels, because some bull-headed and ignorant landlord chooses to tell them they don’t spend money enough.” There is likewise a perceptible, if not a consi- derable diminution of another monster evil — an evil the existence of which will seriously affect the r 66 VICTORIA. well-being of any community. Than the love and excessive use of ardent and intoxicating drinks nothing impedes the progress of science and art and everything connected with the march of civilization more — ^while nothing can impair the health and corrupt the morals of a people so much. Intemperance in this respect has hitherto been and still is the self- generated curse that alHicts the Australian colonies. Like some pestilential and contagious disease, it seems to affect all classes and all ages. The working part of the population — that includes nearly all, for the aristocratic portion is confined to the several governors, their respective suites and a few others — appear to breathe the air or to be influenced more or less by the noxious vapour of the prevailing malady. The colony of Victoria, as will be seen by our comparative table on the consumption of spirits, is more largely im- pregnated with the deadly poison than either of the others. This, no doubt, is owing to her being the mistress of the great gold fields, on which the scum of English society, and a portion of American are located. The more respectable and educated class of persons who have within the last few years settled in the country are, of course, not so easily affected by the contagion; but these persons are represented by simple units under very large num- bers, and which, if deducted therefrom, would not materially reduce the total. Indeed, it may be fairly assumed that two-thirds of the entire popu- VICTORIA. 67 lation either drink freely or excessively of intoxi- cating liquors. A very large proportion of the squatters and old settlers are great and habitual drinkers ; and as drink is one of the great elements of, and is invariably associated with crime, all those who have either been expelled their country or selected self-banishment as a lenient punishment for some criminal or unlaAvful act, are drmikards by aid of their calling. The persons in Australia more seriously affected than others by intemperance, and who enlist our pity, if not our sympathy, are those honest and hardworking artizans and natiiralhy temperate men who want the moral courage or strength of mind to avoid doing as others do,^’ and who gradually become the victims of intemperance, not from the absolute love of drink, but through the seductive and pernicious influence of evil association. For the purpose of improving their position, hundreds of steady industrious mechanics have left the mother country for one in which — did they but continue in their former temperate career — their object might be easily and at once secured ; but in the majority of cases the services of these useful adventurers are partially if not wholly lost to the Colony ; and the men themselves will be found to have derived less profit in person and pocket from extravagant wages and dissolute habits abroad than they did by moderate wages and sobriety at home. For the good opinion of those indolent 68 VICTORIA. and drunken companions, whose good opinion is worse than worthless, many honest but weak- minded men become their own executioners ; for to obtain the applause and win the smile of some old and hardened culprit, they enter the path on which they not only destroy their hopes in life but in too many cases come to an untimely and unhappy end. If such persons at the outset were only to consider or weigh for a moment the good opinion of intemperate workmen against that matchless blessing — health — the value of whose presence is never known till needed, they would surely perceive that the empty gain of the one would not repay them for the irreparable loss of the other. We seldom venture more than a passing opinion on political subjects, and then only so far as the matter referred to has some bearing on the work in hand. Had we however the good or ill fortune to belong to that class of politicians who advocate universal suffrage, equality, fraternity, ^c,, our ex- perience in the Colonies would have been more than sufficient to convince us of the frailty of the materials on which such principles are formed. England would indeed be in a deplorable con- dition, were the respectable and well-educated portion of her people reduced to a level with those who furnish the most direct and unanswerable evidence of their incapacity to take care either of themselves or anything intrusted to their care. VICTORIA. 69 The man who cannot protect his own would be but a feeble guardian for the property of others ; and if unfit to guard private rights, he would hardly be qualified for a public trust. Whether his protection be required for a political privilege, or a pound, the result would be identical ; for although the coin might be more convertible than the vote, the incapacity of the holder with respect to the application would be the same in either case — for the infiuence of associates would prove a sufficient leading- string for any purpose or any point. On political questions, which contribute so much either to national greatness or national weakness, a man’s capacity should be equal to his power ; and while the poorer classes have not the power to comprehend and appreciate, nor the moral courage to protect political privileges, even absolutism with its attendant evils would, in our opinion, be preferable to universal suffrage. Returning to the point that provoked the pre- ceding remarks, we come to an important question : — when does a nation benefit most by the me- chanical part of her population and working classes generally — when the return for their labor will supply them with all the necessaries and a few of the luxuries of life, or at a period when they can command wages sufficient either for accumulation or extravagance? Our experience enables us to supply something more than a speculative answer in favor of the lower scale ; for we are satisfied 70 VICTORIA. that not only a nation or colony benefits by mode- rate j*ates but likewise the recipients or laborers themselves. With moderate wages the artizan devotes his services to his country or his employer, while his absence from the pot-house or gin-shop is one of the best guarantees for the preservation of his health. But with inordinate wages not only two-thirds of the mechanic’s labor is entirely lost, but his constitution generally becomes a prey to intemperance, while the accumulated evils arising from indolence, vice, sickness, and misery follow. A man who can earn two pounds in one day, which he squanders in idleness and dissipa- tion during the rest- of the week would of course benefit both his employer and himself by having to work six days for the amount which he receives in one. The same rule applies alike to w^orkmen and servants of either sex, and of any profession or denomination. The female domestic in Aus- tralia who receives fifty or sixty pounds a year is more indolent, impudent, extravagant, or dissi- pated, and regards the security of her situation with greater indifference than when she was in receipt of one-third of the amount. Still she is not richer at the end of the year than formerly. She. spends the surplus in finery, while her male companion takes his to the public-house. The sailor who receives fifty pounds instead of ten for his services on the voyage to England will not be found to be a richer, but — in health and strength VICTOllIA. 71 — a poorer man in less than a month after reaching his destination. Indeed, we might furnish cases to an indefinite number with the same results. Everything tends to strengthen our belief, that moderate but fair wages for the servant, the me- chanic, and the laborer, contribute more to the welfare of themselves, their employers, and their country, than high or excessive rates. By a singular coincidence, our remarks on the above head appear somewhat confirmed on (this 16th of April, 1855,) the day on which they were written, by a leading article in The Melbourne Morning Herald, which we subjoin without abridgement — less on account of its following our view of the subject, than for the purpose — at some future page of our work — of contrasting the elastic and conflicting doctrines of a colonial press, and of showing how impulsive and accommodating writers, — like rash and unsubstantial speculators, — change, in the time of adversity, the cheerful tune or consequential air they are wont to play in a season of prosperity. The Melbourne Morning- Herald,^’ from which the following article is taken, is perhaps one of the most consistent newspapers in the colony : — ‘‘WHAT HAVE WE GAINED BY GAMBLING PBICES ? “Within our brief career, as a separate colony, we have some experiences worth noting for future remembrance. The chief of these lessons from the past may be derived 72 VTCTORIA. from the events produced by the gold discoveries, as in- fluencing prices of real and personal property, labor, &c. With very few exceptions, the extraordinary prices of 1852 and the two succeeding years, have given way to fair and moderate rates, for all descriptions of property; and we may now look around, and ascertain what has been the actual advantage gained, either by individuals or the com- munity, from the excited and highly artificial state of afi’airs that lately prevailed here. We commence with the Executive; and we find that, during the above period, they obtained for Crown lands rates which could scarcely have been realised even in the Great Metropolis of London. Building allotments went off at the rate of five to ten thousand pounds per acre, and suburban and country lands at ten to fifty times the upset prices, — ^rendering their profitable cultivation absolutely impracticable. At the same time, the general revenue of the colony advanced, — not at the rate of thousands only, — but of millions, during the three years in question. It is, therefore, evident that the Government had their full share of the golden gains of the period. Yet what is its present position ? Has it, like the Executive of the United States, an overfiowing treasury, — a reserved capital from the ple- thora of the golden era of revenue, prudently husbanded to meet the reaction which every man of common sense must have foreseen? The answer to these questions must be sought in the present bankrupt position of the public finances, with heavy debts unliquidated, and prospective wants far beyond prospective means. ‘‘The mercantile body came in for the lioffs share, in these unwonted sources of rapid wealth. Commerce was suddenly quadrupled, and commercial gains were increased in a still greater ratio. Established houses counted their profits by thousands, where hundreds had before represented them ; and mushroom traders sprung up, to turn i mm ense VICTORIA. 73 sums weekly, without a shilling of capital to commence with. If figures possess any value, in enabling us to estimate results, we should now look for a large class of capitalists amongst the merchants and traders, possessed of surplus wealth sufficient to carry on most of the great public works required in the colony, by investments of capital, such as we find in the mother country. Yet what has been the result of all this rapid money-making in commerce? Not only have the mushroom class wholly disappeared, leaving in most instances an ugly record in the Insolvent Court, hut houses have been dragged down with them, which had previously stood on a firm foundation, and had ample capital to support their operations. About a score of this body, more selfish or far-seeing than their compeers, have indeed realised their gains, and carried them ofi* to spend, amongst a more sober community on the other side of the globe ; but these exceptions only increase the general loss sustained by the colony. ^‘The speculators in real property have been generally considered a leading class of gainers by the extravagancies of the golden era. They bought land at four times its value, to re-sell at twelve-fold that value; and they built houses at three-fold the average cost, to let them at rents which represented two and three years’ purchase. Yet in this class we also look in vain for surplus capital, — for any number of men able and willing to expend extravagant gains in reproductive works, permanently beneficial to themselves and the colony. Their land investments are now wholly unproductive in many instances, and houses which cost three -fold their actual value to raise, now pro- duce far less to their owners than the current rate of interest for money on loan ; although, with rents reduced one-half, we still find tenements that would be considered exorbi- tantly high at £10 per year at home, have a rental affixed to them of £50 to £80 per annum. In this class, therefore. 74 VICTORIA. the general public are even now laboring under a disad- vantage, which has, in a great measure, disappeared from current prices, while no counterbalancing advantages remain to any one. ^‘The laboring man, it will be said, surely profited by the enormous rate of wages which prevailed. But here, also, we fail to trace out any enduring evidence of that profit. Much of these unusual gains we know went into the tills of the publicans, and thereby created a temporary value in tavern property, which has since landed many of the latest speculators in the Insolvent Court. But where are we to seek the results of the surplus wages of the laboring class? Do we find the vicinity of Melbourne dotted with farms and market-gardens, — ^the natural chan- nels for investment by this class ? No such provident habit has been encouraged amongst them; and so blind to the future have the mass shown themselves, that a few days lack of employment plunges them in difficulty. “ Our late Grovernor, Mr. La Trobe, (of whom it is easier to speak with pity than anger,) plainly confessed his in- ability to stem the tide of improvidence which set in from the year 1852, and met every argument for ameliorating it by a plea of helplessness, on the part of the Executive, to control the tendency of the public to overlook the future, in dealing with their exorbitant gains. A statesman would have pursued a very different course. "We have now very dear-bought experience to guide us in the struggle we have entered upon, to acquire anew the opportunities of progress that we have lost ; and a statesman we must have to govern Victoria, and initiate for her population measures for her real advancement, and to set examples of prudence and patriotism to the community.’^ t As the writer of the foregoing article justly observes, high wages failed to make the working VICTOllIA. 75 classes ill the colony of Victoria provident T lie might have added that moderate wages compels them — if not to be provident, to be less extrava- gant, thereby insuring their longer absence from the pot-house, and the consequent benefit to their health if not to their pocket. There is not half so much dissipation, drunkenness and riot, with the working classes at present as we found in the colony during our first visit. Why ? Simply because the working classes cannot at present earn half so much as formerly, consequently have not half so much to spend. The decline of intemper- ance arises from no social advance in the habits and tastes of the people themselves. Their in- clination and desire for drink are the same now as then, and only lie dormant for want of the means to indulge them. We occasionally recognise at the bar of our hotel, quietly taking a glass of ale, some familiar form whom we remember to have seen during our last visit shouting for ^^nobblers round, and with oaths and clamour spending five or ten shillings on a lot of strangers, instead — as at present — of calmly dispensing sixpence or a shilling on himself. But great gains, suddenly acquired by the middle classes, appear to be as improvidently wasted, or at least to be quite as difficult to hus- band as the inordinate wages of the laborer or mechanic. Only two years since we had our at- tention directed to numerous fortunate land or 76 VICTORIA. mercantile speculators, who were worth some forty, fifty, or a hundred thousand pounds per man, many of whom at this present writing — instead of repairing to their native land with the substantial weight of their former sport, have their names entered for a passage through the Insolvent Court. One gentleman whom we had the honor — or rather misfortune, for he was a low person — to meet in 1853, and who then proceeded to England for the purpose, as he supposed, of enjoying a permanent income of £10,000 a year, has just returned to find that he is not worth as many shillings. Those to whom he had either sold or let his property having failed, he discovers that his land is not worth the twentieth part of its former imaginary value. All — from the governor to the humblest mechanic — ^mistook and calculated on that revenue for an age which lasted only for a seamn; and the mistake has surprised, misled, or embarrassed one and all in a greater or lesser degree. Sudden and unheard-of successes drove the people mad, and in that state they were either unable or unwilling to anticipate a reaction ; but by equally sudden reverses their senses have been partially restored — though not without a severe shock even to those whose means and credit have enabled them to maintain their position. Notwithstanding the reaction which has taken place, the various branches of commerce in Victoria have at present the appearance of approaching a VICTORIA. 77 more healthy state. It will of course take some time before they continue periodically to yield the substantial fruit arising from prudence and care ; for after the reckless specidation of merchants, companies, and private individuals during the last two years, it is scarcely possible for regular traders to ascertain what the actual requirements of the colony have been — what they are, or what they are likely to be. Such immense shipments of unsuitable merchandise from England and other parts of the globe have been daily, almost hourly, forced into the markets and sold or sacrificed without reservation, that large quantities both of unseasonable and unsuitable goods have been pur- chased by the inhabitants at one half their original cost, in place of others which they required. The extravagant price of almost everything for a short time after the discovery of gold, together with the flaming accounts which were immediately and extensively circulated throughout Europe, created that prodigious appetite for speculation, for the imprudent indulgence in which the actors have already paid a severe penalty. Almost everybody in England had heard that by sending goods to Australia a fortune was to be made ; almost every- body tried to make it ; and almost everybody has been disappointed with the result. Anything would do for Australia where everything was wanted — although but few have received anything in return. But an improvement is now observable 78 VICTORIA. — not witli reference to commercial prosperity but with regard to the manner commercial matters are conducted in the colony. True ; large fortunes have not been made during the last two years ; on the contrary — through excessive trading, caused by former successes, a considerable portion, and in some cases all the profits previously acquired, have been lost to the original holders. But these reverses have already produced beneficial results. Becldess speculation has partially if not wholly ceased; trade has reached a more settled and healthy state ; while anything which is likely to prove of real service to the country — either with regard to persons or things — meets with more attention and encouragement than heretofore. Of greater benefit to the colony than all — in a commercial point of view — is the diminution of that swarm of ephemeral or transitory class of speculators who, like summer flies, are blown into existence during the heat of great commercial excitement. These trading nondescripts being of a migratory nature, no wonder that so many of them should have been found in Victoria. They are nothing more nor less than human bubbles that start without capital and end without character. Their antipodal season is now over, although the mischief caused during their presence remains. Fortunately, however, the persons on whom it chiefly falls are able to bear the burden. Rich merchants should remember that mites would not VICTORIA. 79 exist witliout matter ; and when they lend their support to that which takes from their own sub- stance, they have only themselves to blame. Colonial banking houses are entitled even to less commiseration — indeed, to none at all; for had they not, during a brief period of commercial ex- citement and speculation, afforded assistance to persons without discrimination, and discounted paper at enormous rates without care or inquiry, the evil would have been nipped in the bud. For the benefit of colonists generally, and for the information of those persons in the United Kingdom who are commercially connected with them, we here make mention of a system which is frequently complained of, not only in the colony of Victoria but in all the colonies we have visited. The custom has long existed, and although not so universally adopted as in former years, it still continues, and is often practised by English mer- chants at home to the great inconvenience, and sometimes at the serious cost of their colonial customers. The practice we refer to is one that is common with many of the manufacturing, com- mercial, and export houses, viz., — inattention to, or want of proper care in the execution of foreign orders. In some cases, the evidence would go to prove that inattention and carelessness are not the only things to be complained of, but that gross deception, or downright dishonesty are more ap- propriate terms for the evil. Anything will do 80 VICTORIA. to go abroad/’ cries some Bread-street or Milk- street warehouseman, as he selects the damaged, unfashionable, or dirty portion of his stock for shipment. Here’s an order from Australia,” says a Birmingham manufacturer to his foreman, as he instructs him to send some lacquered rings, ten- penny brooches and unsaleable wares and charge them double price. That anything is often sent, but that anything will not do, those who are ac- quainted with, or have visited the colonial markets will at once confirm. No greater mistake can be made than to suppose that some worthless article at home can acquire a value by being sent abroad, or that the distance of a few thousands of miles will prevent our own countrymen or others from Imowing what is or what is not worthless. And no greater mistake can be made by those English merchants who value their foreign connexion than to imagine that distance will prevent the detection of unfair or dishonest dealing, or that the discovery would not be the means of stopping ^Huture orders.” Some of our first-class houses appear to be aware of this, and devote as much care and attention in the execution of foreign as home orders. As may be supposed, such upright dealing leads to an in- crease in the number of customers on the part of those who practise it. With regard to the principal towns in the colony of Victoria — Melbourne and Geelong — we may observe that the improvements which have taken VICTORIA. 81 place since 1853 correspond with the favorable change manifested in the tastes and habits of the population. Melbourne can now boast of its University — with, at present, sixteen students — its Chamber of Commerce, and other Institutions that furnish evidence of the social and mental progress of the place and the people. The town is now partially, and will shortly be entirely lighted with gas, while the improved state of the streets, as well as the buildings, public and private, prove that neither the local authorities nor private individuals have been insensible to the advantages to be de- rived from the abolition of public nuisances and private hovels. The improvements in Geelong, although not quite so striking and extensive as those in the capital, have steadily and substantially progressed; and while Melbourne, as the seat of government, is likely to maintain the lead in a commercial as well as political point of view, the situation and salubrity of Geelong are infinitely superior, and may well cause all those connected with the government and its administration to regret that ‘^head quarters’’ was not originally fixed in a place — the natural advantages of which are so superior to those of the capital. In reference to the climate — either with regard to health, pasture, or agricultural pursuits, all the information we have gathered from others’ and our own experience during our present visit merely tends to the confirmation of our previous remarks G 82 VICTORIA. on the same subject. Long droilghts, and the want of inland lakes and rivers are the chief drawbacks to this and indeed to all the Australian colonies. Although many parts of the country are very beautiful, so far as scenery is concerned, they would be still more beautiful if the creeks and valleys were undulated by streams and running brooks. During the summer months one may traverse a space of fifty or one hundred miles without seeing anything of a nearer approach to crystal fluid than that which may be found in some stagnant pool or gully hole. Indeed the want of water is one of the greatest wants in a semi-tropical climate, and one that is more severely felt than any other. During the six months antecedent to this present writing there has not been in many parts of the colony more than twenty-four hours rain, while in other parts there has not been a drop ; and the sight of a piece of fat beef or mutton would at present be as great and as rare a dish on a colonial table as a basket of strawberries would be considered in England on Christmas- day. In a long dry season the squatters lose thousands of their sheep entirely through the want of water, and consequent absence of pasture. There are many other drawbacks arising from the same and similar causes ; but to the personal inconveniences produced by a warm climate, through hot winds, dust, flies, mosquitoes, together vfith myriads of insects of various sorts and sizes VICTORIA. 83 xve consider it unnecessary to do more tlian refer — as siicli tilings are known to exist and are periodi- cally looked for by old settlers, liowever unexpected or unpleasant they may appear to new comers. The newspaper press in Victoria is neither im- partially nor ably conducted — a truth that applies more especially to the leading organ, which is ever ready to pander to popular opinions, however ex- travagant or erroneous, without having either the influence to guide or govern them, or the ability ♦to disguise’ its own subserviency. The editors mistake impudent assurance for power, and per- sonal abuse for satire. After heading the cry of speculators and gamblers during two years of arti- ficial success and predicting the most absurd and visionary pictures of Victorian glory, and after having assisted, by its advocacy of useless and ex- travagant outlays, to precipitate the colony and its inhabitants toward their present state of insol- vency, the Melbourne ‘‘Argus — the government organ for the present moment — displays the full extent of its power and its spleen in articles like the following — simply because a proposition ema- nates from a more respectable source, that the government of Victoria ought to seek the advice and assistance of the Officer at the head of the Australian Colonies, who is invested by her Majesty with special powers for supervision at any time his services may be required. 84 VICTORIA. “HO! DENISON, TO THE EESCUE ! ‘‘An idea lias been set on foot by some sagacions gentle- men, tliat tbe condition of this Colony is so critical that it is necessary to call in extraneous assistance ; and that the best course to be adopted is to send for Sir William Denison to come down, and endeavour to put us all to rights by a cou2^ de main, “ Whatever we may think of the wisdom of this proposal, or of its efficacy, if adopted, there can be no doubt of the perfect originality of the suggestion; and those who have stumbled upon such a clew to lead us out of the labyrinth of our misfortunes, deserve credit for the fertility of their * invention, at all events, be those who proceed to adopt their idea many or few. ‘ ‘ For ourselves, we must confess that, supposing any such step as that suggested to be consistent with the duties of a Grovernor-General, or at all compatible with the position of the Lieutenant- Grovernor of an independent colony, we demur to any such proceeding on several grounds. “ In the first place, we do not think it necessary. It is the fashion to represent afiairs in the colony in a very desperate condition : and there is much, certainly, which requires prompt and energetic attention; but of all the prognostications which are likely to lead to their own veri- fication, few are so Iffiely as those of people who run about, incessantly proclaiming the advent of a crisis. Lead men’s thoughts continuously to dwell upon the expectation of great and exciting events, and they begin to look for and insist upon them. The humdrum routine of every-day life becomes insipid, and they demand the gratification of the excited spirit in which they have been taught to exist. But national crises have rarely a beneficial tendency. They may sometimes be necessary to clear the political atmosphere, as a thunder-storm does that of the natural world ; but if a VICTORIA. 85 country can p^et on without all the thunder and lightnin^^, and earthquake and volcano, depend upon it that it is better for it in the end ; and that the calm health of nations ” is much greater, more reliable, more satisfactory in every way, without the occurrence of such paroxysms at all. It is not the part of good citizenship to precipitate such crises, and therefore it is not good citizenship to constantly predict them. Men may run about, and urge their neighbor to look out instantly for great events ; but, by doing so, they confer no benefits on such neighbor, or on the community of which they each constitute a part. ‘‘For our own part, we do not believe that any crisis is necessarily impending. We are inclined rather to hope that a considerable progress towards a better condition of things is perceptible ; and we feel as indignant with those who would recklessly interfere with that progress, as we should feel with the man who should intercept a railway train, or blow one of our Liverpool clippers into the air, because she was not a mail steamer carrying us our letters in something under fifty days. The great and most imminent difficulty in the colony lately has been the management of the gold- fields. The license-fee is done away with, — the obnoxious commissioner system is immediately to follow ; an amount of representation as adequate as local legislation can secure, will be brought into operation without any delay ; the land in the neighbourhood of the gold-fields must be brought more freely into the market ; and any other reform which may be energetically and temperately urged will receive prompt attention. Meantime the yield from the gold-fields is increasing, as the rain comes. Quartz-crushing promises very great results indeed. Wages of various kinds are rising, and people are becoming more generally employed. The inhabitants of the towns and their suburbs are betaking themselves to the country — ^placing themselves in the way of becoming producers, instead of mere distributors; the 86 VICTORIA. plough passes merrily through, many a sod — never yet turned up before ; and genuine colonisation is going on more rapidly, and with a more promising aspect, than has ever yet been the case. The public is officially told that the revenue is increasing; and several large measures of retrenchment have been forced upon the Government, and still further economy is inculcated for the future. Already a feeling of greater confidence is prevailing amongst our trading classes ; and many articles are, one after another, reaching a highly remunerative rate, and afibrding promises of adequate profit to all concerned in their introduction. ‘‘These are hopeful features; and although there is still much to regret, and much to blame, there is nothing that necessitates a crisis. We may all set to work to treat our- selves to “ a hit of row,’’ if we choose ; hut it would scarcely he the act of an intelligent or civilised people; and we, therefore, think it would he better to postpone such an event till we cannot do without it ; and, in the meantime, try to shame those who would bring it about, and those who too readily prophecy it, into the adoption of a more reasonable course of policy. “But, however unsatisfactory, or even desperate, our condition might he thought, even by the least sanguine, we protest against the invitation to Sir William Denison, as one of the most preposterous suggestions we ever heard of. We are sufiering from the want of Victorian experience of one governor, and we are to remedy the evil by appealing to the want of experience of another! We are complaining of mismanagement upon the part of one of our colonial representatives of Royalty, and one whom most people still believe to mean well to the colony, and we are to call in the assistance of another, whose whole Australian career has stamped him a reckless and unscrupulous tyrant. Nay, the very evils of an impoverished exchequer, and extravagantly expensive establishments, under which we are groaning, are VICTORIA. 87 more immediately traceable to him, and bis detestable con- vict policy, than to any other man or any other cause in existence. Our gaol penal and police expenditure last year amounted to £1,000,000 ; and one-third of this would have been sufficient, but for Victoria having been deluged with the felonry, introduced into the Australian colonies by the aid of his artifices and intrigues. And this is the man to whom we are to appeal for assistance! Are we mad, or blind, or sinking into a condition of fatuity, even to listen to such a piece of flagrant inconsistency ? However, let us suppose the improbable case — that Sir William Denison should be asked to come, and would assent to that request. What could he do ? Could he be expected to tell at a glance what was right and what was wrong ? Could he select our good officials from our bad ones, by in- tuition? Would he, running down here for a fortnight, hang Smith, and promote Brown ; elevate to honor the chief butler, and give the chief baker to the fowls of the air? By what peculiar art could all this be done ? And what confidence can any man place in Sir William Denison, to intrust in his hands this ‘sort of vice-regal Lynch law ? He might possibly come, see, and conquer; he might visit us with all the authority of the prophet ; ‘ ‘ strike his hand over the place,” and at once cure us of our leprosy. But we do not believe in the possibility of all this. The evils we sufler from are chronic ills. They have grown up under long years of the most abominable misgovernment and oppres- sion; and it is simply absurd to fancy that they can be removed by any more ready process than that of patient and continuous reform. It would be a thing unprecedented, for the national diseases of years to be cured by the operations of a day. W e must wade laboriously and perseveringly out of the mire of our difficulties, as we waded foolishly into it ; and we must apply our own shoulders to the wheel instead of praying to such a very questionable Hercules as Sir William Denison. 88 VICTORIA. sober truth, that gentleman is, even in point of talent, one of the most over-estimated men in the Austra- lian Colonies. His whole career in Tasmania was a great mistake ; and the condition in which he left it was as little creditable to his capacity, as his vile pandering to convictism was creditable to his honor. That entire country is at this moment in a state of collapse ! The dearth of labor is only equalled by the incapacity of the inhabitants to offer rates of wages which shall supply it. Commerce is stagnant : and the landowner, the householder, and the capitalist, look blankly at one another, and ask whether things are always to be so dull ; whether the exhaustion consequent upon the rapid suspension of expenditure of imperial funds, is or is not to dwindle into an incurable disease ? The attractions of the gold-fields of Yictoria have, in their overfiow, helped to populate every one of the adjacent colonies, except Deni- son-cursed Yan Diemen’s Land, ^ew South Wales has greatly increased her population ; that of South Australia has greatly increased ; that of JSTew Zealand has increased. Yan Diemen’s Land alone has retrograded ; and her gaoler- governor most beautifully illustrated the effects of his benignant rule, by informing the people, a short time pre- vious to his leaving, that, since the discovery of gold, the population had decreased to the extent of about ten thousand souls ! A noble patriot, indeed, to put us in order ! ‘‘But, besides all this, what would there be in even the successful rule of such a colony as Tasmania, to justify expectation in dealing with the affairs of such a colony as this ? The whole population of that island amounts to little more than that of the city of Melbourne. And is there anything in the control of such a number of people as that, to lead to very high hopes in our much greater affairs? Why, Mr. Town-Clerk Kerr rules all Melbourne with a rod of iron, and his subjects do not raise barricades, hoist standards, or otherwise rebel! But does anybody suggest VICTORIA. 89 that Mr. Kerr shall, therefore, he constituted Dictator- General of Yictoria, to supersede the Lieutenant-Governor, and cut and carve our establishments at his pleasure ? ^‘No! good people of Yictoria! your true remedy lies xoitli no one man I Look not to England I look not to Sydney^ for redress ! If you cannot reform your own abuses, rest assured that no one will reform them for you. But you lean upon a broken reed if you trust to individual zeal, individual vigilance, individual integrity. The remedy for what is wrong amongst you rests ivith yourselves alone ; and you are not true to yourselves if you do not turn with a stout heart to the labor before you, and succeed in working out your own redemption.” The writer of the above article reminds us of the timid patient, who on the approach of the physician, declares himself free from disease, yet with the next breath proposes to cure himself. If the colonists are in the healthy state the writer would lead them to suppose, why desire them to work out their redemption? This is but a mild specimen of the tone and inconsistency of ‘‘The Argus,’’ compared with the majority of its leaders, some of which propose measures and propound doctrines in one issue which are utterly denied or repudiated in the next. It is a newspaper that may be truly termed the colonial weathercock; for it will join the rabble in any popular cry on any subject, however extravagant ; but should the more intelligent part of the community, by the force of reason and common sense, turn the cur- rent in an opposite direction, it will immediately 90 VICTORIA. point its arrows against its former friends. For instance, — tlie large influx of Chinese immigrants during the last few months has created some alarm in the minds of the indolent, dissipated, and illi- terate part of the inhabitants, lest those whose peaceful and industrious habits prove them to be a superior class of persons should reap the fruit of their own labor in a foreign land — a liberty and a right which in England are granted to men of any and every nation, so long as they respect and obey the laws of the country. Thinking, however, that popular opinion was with them, the editors and contributors to this liberal and enlightened newspaper were highly indignant at the increase in the number of persons from the Celestial Empire, and endeavoured to impress on the Government the necessity of at once introducing a measure for the total exclusion of any and all from the same region — or they, the writers, would not be respon- sible for the peaceful behavior of the diggers. After the columns of a largely circulated news- paper had been daily filled with articles and letters of so inflammatory a nature, it is not surprising to find that a body of emancipated felons, robbers, and diggers did actually, and without provocation on the part of the defendants, turn round on these inoffensive and unprotected individuals and vio- lently drive them from the diggings. Fortunately however for the progress of civilization, and as a check to the public buzz and infectious blasts of VICTORIA. 91 literary blue-bottles, Melbourne bas a Cliamber of Commerce — whose members on this occasion have, by the influential expression of their opinion, put a stop to that monstrous and retrogressive step by which the rabble, and the leading newspaper of Victoria, proposed to check the intercourse and social improvement of nations. The following will explain the subject in all its bearings which the members were summoned to consider : — ‘‘CHAMBER OE COMMERCE.— THE CHINESE aUESTION. “ A special general meeting of tlie Chamber of Commerce was held yesterday afternoon, at the Exchange Rooms, Collins- street, for the purpose, according to the circular issued, of considering the following questions : — • “1st. Whether under the treaty with China any British colony has power to exclude the natives of China. 2nd. To consider whether the government of Victoria can impose any restrictions on the passenger intercourse between China and this colony. 3rd. In case of passing any exclusive law relative to the Chinese, to what extent the lives and property of British subjects in China would thereby he affected. 4th. What effect such interference would have upon the commercial interests of Great Britain and the Australian colonies in connection with China. 5th. What measures might he beneficially adopted by this colony, with the view of securing peace and harmony between the Chinese and the inhabitants.’’ And to the lasting credit of the body, the fol- lowing resolution, after full discussion, was carried by a very large majority : — 92 VICTORIA. ^^That, in the opinion of this Chamber, it is contrary to the spirit of the age, opposed to the interests of this colony, and opposed to the treaty with China, to pass any law peculiarly applicable to the prevention of the Chinese from landing in this colony.” Now let the reader observe, in the following leader, how an important Colonial newspaper, which had done all in its power to excite popular indignation against the Chinese, immediately turns round to compliment those by whom its doctrines have been defeated. Well may such tergiversation arouse the pity and disgust of the small body of sensible and thoughtful men in the colony : — ‘^CHINESE IMMIGRATION^. ‘‘The council in Collins- street has anticipated that in Bourke- street, and declared its opinion on the subject of Chinese immigration. It is a good omen for the country that a body like the Melbourne Chamber of Commerce should at last have begun to display such energy as has of late characterised their proceedings, although their discretion may sometimes appear questionable. It is satisfactory to find our merchants deliberating on the important points which from time to time arise, and expressing their views in reference to them. Often and often we have regretted the apathy in reference to public questions of vital import- ance which was displayed by the members of the mercantile community, and we rejoice in the proofs they are now giving of a somewhat livelier interest in matters which concern them as much, at least, as any other class. We are con- vinced that serious evils would have been averted had this energy been earlier displayed. VICTORIA. 93 “But it strikes us that in considering tlie Chinese ques- tion the Chamber have looked at it too exclusively in its commercial aspect. There is something rather remarkable in the almost unanimous decision of this body being in direct opposition to the also almost unanimous decision of the public meeting of the citizens, which was held the other day. “ The question, it is true, has great importance in a com- mercial point of view. The opening of a new stream of immigration into the colony, broader and more rapid, in all probability, than has hitherto flowed into it, would have an influence immediate, direct, and of the most decided kind on the commercial condition of Melbourne. Our Chinese visitors are not, it is admitted, by any means such good customers as those who come to Yictoria from the United Kingdom, America, or the Continent of Europe. But, on the other hand, they are all customers, — not competitors. They do require supplies, and though they may not be as great consumers, even by two-thirds, as other immigrants are, yet, if they come in numbers three times as great, the eflect upon trade will be the same. The Chinese may not be good customers to the importers of wines and spirits, and furniture, and ladies’ dresses, and ornaments ; but food they must have, and they have of late displayed a ready appre- ciation of British clothing, in preference to the rough cotton in which they reached our shores.” The following speech (translated) was written by one of the leading men among the Chinese immi- grants, who hearing of the intended or threatened expidsion of his countrymen, felt anxious both on their account and his own to arrest the colonial per- secution. The address is pregnant with such good feeling, common sense, and gentle forbearance. 94 VICTORIA. that we subjoin it without abridgment ; and if our expectations were only equal to our hope, some of our higotted and despotic colonists, and popularity- hunting scribblers, would not fail to profit by the kindly expressions and manly sentences of those whom they so hastily and cruelly condemn : — ‘^SPEECH OF aUANO CHEW, ^‘lately arrived, a max, REIXG good IX HIS REASOX AXD AEEECTIOXS, AXD EIETH COHSIX OF THE MAXDARIX TA QHAXG TSIXG LOO, AVHO POSSESSES MAXY GARDEXS XEAR MACAO. Kind people of the Grold- enticing Country ! — I, a man of some years beyond the rest of us Chinese who have recently disembarked upon the hospitable shores of your yellow fields ; also a man , wishing very humbly to express the gratitude of his heart, and of all those who accompany him, or who have gone before us, and not forgetting all those who are humbly on the way ; I, being, moreover, a man of moderation and cautious judgment, even after looking on both sides of the bridge, according to the wise laws and advice of Cung Foo T’see, and Lao Shang, cannot but give words to my surprise at some of the roughly- split and knotty bamboos which, as we are informed by the tongue of our interpreter, Atchai, have been swung threat- eningly above the shoulders of all the golden sea-crossing people of the Central Flowery Empire, our much- distant native land. “ Man being subject to many changes and dark clouds, must submit with resignation. Man must be patient ; and likewise exceedingly respectful. All good laws teach this ; and all dutiful Chinese reverence the laws, because they are the finest fiowers and fruits which the heavenly sun extracts VICTORIA. 95 from tlie roots of wisdom. Therefore man must always how before his governors and superiors, because they are the roots of wisdom. With all becoming ceremonies we wish to approach and bow before the governor of this town. ‘‘ Eut in what thing have we, the Chinese, humbly landing on your delightful shores, given just cause of offence ? That is what I am desirous to know. We wish to be made sen- sible. Man at all times needs instruction, and particularly when he arrives in a foreign land. Our interpreter Atchai would not deceive us. Atchai is a respectable young man, formerly one of the agents of Howqua and Mowqua, mer- chants in tea ; but Atchai may have made some mistakes in your words, and in the characters he places before us as representing your words. This is my opinion. It is also the opinion of Ayung Fi, a man of extensive judgment, and one of the principal tailors of Canton. I will say more. All the oldest men among us think the same as I think, and Ayung thinks Atchai has made a bad looking glass. Understanding, by the assurances of many respectable people in our own country, and additionally convinced by others who had voyaged to this land, and returned to the Central Flowery Empire, that, not only do the people of England come here, but the people of India, and Japan, and America, and also from French lands, and other places ; and having been informed that there were no people of any country who were excluded, and that all those people were even welcomed with both hands, and the sound of triangles and kettles [meaning drums], who came from civilised places, where the arts and other useful labors were studied from the wisest and most ancient traditions, and were in- dustriously cultivated ; now, therefore, in all reverence, and with every proper ceremony, I, the speaker of this, Huang Chew, a very humble man, but having reason, do not think it will justly balance in your wise governor’s hand, when bitter and unfruitful counsellors [more literally, mandarins made of orange-peel] propose that all nations shall be 96 VICTORIA. welcomed here, excepting the Chinese. I appeal to yon all, diversified people of the gold-enticing country, if this would not he a hard-grained and distorted proceeding ? At the thought of being sent home with disgrace, and for no wrong done, we blush, though innocent, we tremble excessively, though free from guilt. ‘ ^ Among our numbers we have men well skilled in gar- dening, and the cultivation of all sorts of fruits and flowers ; likewise carpenters, and workers in fine wood, and in ivory, which we hear abounds in your forests ; also cunning agri- culturists, who know how to manage the worst as well as the best soils, particularly Leu Lee, and his five nephews ; also two men accustomed to make ornamental bridges, and a skilful man named Yaw, who can make the best kites, having wings and great glass eyes, not to he surpassed; lil^ewise Yin, who understands the breeding of fish, and birds, and dogs, and cats ; also many excellent cooks who would allow nothing to he wasted ; and, moreover, we have lockmakers, and toy makers, and many umbrella makers, greatly needed, and inventors of puzzles and fireworks, and carvers of fans and chessmen, and some who make musical instruments, which others can play. Why should all these things he sent hack with disgrace ? ‘‘If it has, unfortunately, happened that any among our people, through ignorance of your laws, have committed any ofiences, let them sufier the punishment awarded, and due to ignorance. Man must he instructed, either by wise precepts, or by punishment. That is all I shall say on this matter. But it is necessary that I should speak about gold. “Thinking very considerably on the subject, I can see very surely that it is not every man who can find much gold. Some indeed will find none at all. These poor men will need to live upon the labor of others, who will not be pleased with that arrangement. Therefore, these poor men will return to this town, and to all your smaller towns, and villages, and villas, and farms, and sell their skill and their VICTORIA. 97 services in tlieir several ways for a little money, and perhaps rice. Why should all our gardeners, and cooks, and lish and bird breeders, and conjurors, be driven away in scorn, when they might be of great use to many others, if allowed to remain here ? Should it be deemed prudent not to allow above ten or twenty thousand more Chinese to come here, it surely would be a harsh proceeding to send away any of those who have already come so far, and are all full of respect. I will propose one thing in particular. Being aware that the governors of this place are always chosen as being most eminent in wisdom ; also being well informed of the great extent of lands in the distant regions beyond the town, and that the greatest part of those lands have never been cultivated ; I, the speaker of this, Q^uang Chew, a humble man, but having some little sense, feel very certain that most of those men of different countries who have found much gold, have purchased land from the governor of the soil. Man delights in having land, and also in orchards and gardens, and prosperous farms. If, then, these places have not been cultivated, it is because those who have bought, or perhaps been presented with all these small farms and fields, for good conduct, by your generous and rational governor, are men accustomed only to dig for gold, and not to till the soil, or else not numerous enough for the work of cultivation. Perhaps, also, not being cunning in those labors. ‘‘ If this speech have any reason in it, I know it will be heard with a close ear, and the head leaning on one side ; and I most anxiously hope that the governor of this town, and all the towns and lands beyond, will condescend to weigh and measure, and reflect a little upon my words ; in the belief of which, with all humbleness of heart, and respectful ceremonies, we await, in silence, the vermilion- coloured reply. H 98 VICTORIA. We have before observed that a marked im- provement has taken place within the last two years in this colony with regard to the inhabitants — from the governor down to the meanest official. But this improvement is to be attributed more to the subdued and settled state of the times than to anything else. During the brief season of specu- lation, riot, and confusion, that preceded this, each one was too busily engaged in the general scramble for gain either to think of his own social progress, or of the mischief caused to society by the unre- strained acts and dishonest practices of his neigh- bor or his superior. But the calm that has now succeeded this disorder affords sensible men time for reflection — and a social improvement is the result. It is the powerful voice of such thoughtful men — a small minority of the entire population — not the popular cry of the rabble and their organs, by which recent public benefits have been achieved and by which future ones may be accomplished. It is by such men and by such means that the press in this colony wiU discover its present sandy foundation; if it would hold that independent position it has not yet attained, or be invested with that power and influence becoming its high office writers must be employed who will mark out and pursue an honest course, without the influence either of party purpose or private intrigue. The governor of Victoria, Sir 0. Hotham, is not at present very popular, although about twelve VICTORIA. 99 montlis since — in the middle of 1854 — the entire population of the colony pronounced him nothing less than a modern Caesar, or a colonial Washing- ton, not from their knowledge either of the man or his deeds — for they knew but little of either — but simply from the great things they predicted and expected him to achieve. Amid the roar of cannon and the strains of martial music, the new Governor first stepped on the land he was destined for a time to govern. Beneath triumphal arches, festoons of laurels, flags of all nations, but that of Bussia, and surrounded by flowers of every hue, both natural and artificial, the Knight Com- mander of the Bath traversed his semi-province, and was welcomed alike both in the capital and in the bush — in the township and on the diggings, and by all persons and all ages, with loyal ad- dresses, emblematic devices and demonstrations, popular ensigns, complimentary ovations, together with every imaginable mark of private attention and public favor. Like some Boman monarch or ancient warrior, he was led to the helm of state — although the majority of those by whom he was conducted had not previously heard even of the name of their hero. But, alas ! for the brief exist- ence of such popular and unsubstantial greatness ! Our modern heroes and public idols might surely profit by the fate of their great forefathers — those whose noble deeds live after them — and not place much reliance on what too often proves 100 VICTORIA. merely the froth of popular feeling that disappears with the momentary blast by which it is created. The very men who applauded Caesar’s assassin — when addressed by another orator — vowed the next hour to be avenged for Caesar’s death. And those in the present day whose musical voices and sweet caps rend the air as tributes of admiration on the advent of any great official star ” are no more to be depended on for the sincerity of their ovations than their rude and slippery ancestors. We are inclined to think that the majority of public characters, in the spring of their career, and during the exhilirating but treacherous ray of a little popularity, are apt at the moment to forget the compliments usually conveyed to persons selected for exalted stations, and to mistake the respect due to their position for personal honors, or private esteem. Undeserved praise is often followed by unmeritted censure. The one provokes the other ; and many men have been unjustly con- demned through the mistaken kindness of those who in attempting to render them a service adopt the surest means of securing their downfall. Be not deceived by the applause of false friends,” says the honest critic to some new candidate for public favor, whom the lovers of novelty will applaud to- day, and as readily ‘condemn to-morrow. Such advice may with propriety be applied to political no less than to any other public or professional actors — ^to the young statesman no less than to the VICTORIA. 101 young tragedian ; for each alike are too ready to mistake empty salutations for substantial favor, and are often led by such mistake to say or do something which, on reflection, they wish unsaid or undone. Old stagers, or experienced politicians are aware of this ; and those agitators who blame them for their evasion or their reserve would blame them still more did they commit themselves to some measure or measures which circmnstances might afterwards compel them to abandon. The popular and universal, yet at the same time extravagant acclamations that hailed the present governor. Sir C. Hotham, on his arrival in the colony, very naturally betrayed him into the error we have just described, and which has already proved a severe blight on his early-blown popu- larity. He commenced his career, like many others, by promising too much — more than was subsequently found convenient or desirable to perform. Hence the reaction that has since taken place in public opinion. Having good-humoredly but injudiciously acknowledged the just as well as many of the unreasonable demands of those around him, and having, as a natural consequence, failed to fulfil all that was expected of him, the Lieute- nant Governor is, of course, no longer pronounced the great man the people had previously pictured him. It is easier to make a fortune than to retrieve a fallen one. Even so with popularity ; and what- ever the amount of good the present governor^ 102 VICTORIA. during his term of office, may accomplish — and we believe him capable of much — ^he will never hold the same rank in public estimation as that assigned to him before the failure of the perform- ances which he led or allowed the people to believe he was able to accomplish. The stringent mea- sures he caused to be adopted with and enforced on the diggers, immediately after listening to and promising to redress their grievances, produced much dissatisfaction — while it is generally believed that just and impartial dealing with the original aggressors at Ballarat would have prevented the riot and bloodshed that subsequently ensued. True ; the officers, not the governor, might have been to blame, although the principal is of course held responsible for the acts of his subordinates — especially when their acts are approved rather than censured. The attorney- general could not find a jury that would return a verdict against any one of those who fired on the soldiers at Bal- larat, and who were tried for ‘^high treason for it is the prevailing opinion of all classes that the provocation the rioters received precipitated, al- though it might hardly justify their acts. That the governor was and is beset with in- numerable difficulties in administering the affairs of a colony like this, no impartial observer of the heterogeneous mass he has to govern, or of the men and matter at his command, will for a moment doubt. For our own part, we consider, as we VICTORIA. 103 previously stated, that he has erred most in pro- mising what he has been unable to perform. That his desire for doing good is equal to his profession and greater than the power at his dis- posal for doing it, all who are acquainted with his character will readily admit. To please all in so miscellaneous an assembly were impossible ; and — as an old colonist one day sagaciously remarked to us — ‘‘if the folks at home were to send an angel from heaven to govern us, there be many devils here that would’nt then be satisfied.’^ The governor is surrounded by men of opposite tastes and opposite interests ; and he no doubt finds a greater difficulty than administering to the wants of the colony is that of ascertaining what those wants really are, or whose advice or opinion to take when each happens to be adverse to the other. Without the almost superhuman power to compass the various requirements of Victoria and the popu- lation, together with a determination to rule independent both of party or party purpose, the time is not, nor ever will be, when the colonists will be satisfied with their governor, or when the governor will be satisfied with those he has to govern. Before we proceed to furnish tables of revenue, population, &c., we may briefly notice the great change that has taken place within the last twelve months, on the leading gold fields, which instead of having the surface irregularly covered 104 VICTORIA. by a number of unsightly tents and buts, as heretofore, have now assumed more of the ap- pearance of commercial towns. Although the buildings are chiefly of wood, they form lines of streets, with substantial hotels, and shops with plate glass fronts, that might lead a stranger into the belief of being in a thickly populated borough, rather than in the midst of, and surrounded by hundreds of holes of various depths and richness, from which thousands of ounces of the precious metal are daily extracted. The estimated popula- tion at Ballarat at the present time is about 20,000 ; and the estimated yield of gold about 3000 ounces per day. The aborigines, or native inhabitants of the colony are now fast disappearing, and will, no doubt, in the course of a few years become nearly if not entirely extinct. It would appear strange, but nevertheless true, that whenever or wherever the white man sets his foot as a permanent re- sident, the black man gradually disappears. One cause of this may be found in the love invariably displayed by the native population for stimu- lating drinks, with which they are supplied by European settlers in exchange for birds, animals, skins, and other articles of native produce. A strong desire and an increasing taste for such drinks soon prove fatal to constitutions previously unaccustomed to them. Besides this, the indolence and other evils generated by their use, induce the VICTORIA. 105 lubras, or females of the tribe, to destroy their offspring in order to avoid the trouble of rearing them ; and, as a natural consequence, the depopula- tion of the race generally follows. MES. EMMA WALLEE. For a few — they were altogether but very few — of the hours of intellectual enjoyment we passed at the Antipodes we were indebted to an occa- sional opportunity of witnessing some highly- finished dramatic pictures, as personified by the above-named lady ; and we are pleased to observe that the professional abilities of this accomplished artist are at present being favorably recognised in the great English metropolis — where distinguished merit from any country or of any class will meet its due reward, or will only remain unrewarded while unknown. Having previously described the general cha- racter of the entertainments which meet with encouragement in the colonies, we deem it an act of justice both to Mrs. Waller and the more intel- ligent part of the colonists by whom she was patronised, to record a success which cannot but be gratifying to all concerned — to none more so than to the humble individual who predicted for the actress a position in England which appears likely at no distant period to be obtained. OFFICIAL AND STATISTICAL INFOEMATION. Charles J. La Trobe Esq., was sworn in Lieu- tenant Governor of Victoria, on its separation from New South Wales, July 1st, 1851. Sir Charles Hotham, Mr. La Trobe’s successor, received his appointment on the 3rd December 1853, and arrived in the colony on the 21st June, 1854. The officer administering the Government of Victoria since the death of Sir Charles Hotham is Colonel Me Arthur, the Commander of the Forces, who merely retains his position till the arrival of the newly appointed Governor. — 7 POPULATION. Comparison of Population in Port Phillip (now Victoria.) 1841. 1846. 1851. Popula- Ratio Popula- Ratio Popula- Ratio tion. per cent. tion. per cent. tion per cent. Males. Under 2 years 305 3.686 1691 8.378 3745 8.106 2 years and under 7 years 479 5.789 2520 12 485 5874 12.714 7 )) >> 14 )» 395 4.774 1500 7.432 4636 10.034 14 „ „ 21 „ 561 6.780 989 4.900 3172 6.865 21 ,, ,i 45 „ 6045 73,060 12198 60.434 24666 53.387 45 „ ,, 60 442 5.342 1122 0.559 3595 7.781 60 „ and upwards . . 47 0.568 164 0.812 514 1.113 8274 20184 46202 Females. Under 2 years 340 9.815 1689 13.304 3685 11.832 2 years and under 7 years 425 12.269 2465 19.417 5633 18.088 7 V 14 >> 395 11.403 1352 10.650 4374 14.045 14 „ „ 21 „ 384 11.086 1001 7.S85 3576 11.482 21 „ „ 45 „ 1828 52.771 5754 45.325 12273 39.409 45 fy ,, 60 ,, 86 2.483 393 3.096 1435 4.608 60 „ and upwards . . 6 0.173 41 0.323 167 0.536 3464 12695 31143 Total Males . . 8274 70.489 20184 61.389 46202 59.735 „ Females 3464 29.511 12695 38.611 31143 40.265 11738 100.00 32879 100.00 77345 100.00 In 1841, there were for every 100 females, 239 males. „ 1846, ft > > >> 159 „ 1851, ft ff ft 148 t ) POPULATION Increase and Decrease of the Population of the Colony of Victoria, (not including Aborigines, who Population on the 31st December, 1850. Population Males. Females. General Total. Males. Increase by Immigration 6479 4281 10760 11657 ,, Births 1350 1323 2673 1571 Total Increase 7829 5604 13433 13228 Decrease by Deaths 453 327 780 651 Departures 2300 1004 3304 2854 Total Decrease 2753 1331 4084 3505 Net Increase 5076 4273 9349 9723 Population on 31st December, 1849, \ 36631 23759 60390 41707 1850, 1851, and 1852 ) Population on 31st December, 1850, ) 41707 28032 69739 51430 1851, 1852, and 1853 ) [j OF VICTORIA. luring the Years ending the 31st December, 1850, 1851, 1852, and 1853, I ire estimated at about 2500). on the 31st December, , 1851. Population on the 31st December, 1852. Population on the 31st Dec., 1853. Females. 3 o H li i S c H Q) a Ss 0“^ a a* Pm "rt o H a- S o 3776 1478 15433 3049 74872 1868 19792 1888 94664 3756 66032 26280 92312 5000 - 5254 18482 76740 21680 98420 97312 514 852 1165 3706 1236 28620 869 2418 2105 31038 36532 5911 5000 42443 1366 4871 29856 3287 33143 47443 3888 13611 46884 18393 65277 49869 28032 69739 51429 31921 83350 98313 50314 148627 31920 83350 98313 50314 148627 198496 To afford our readers an opportunity of knowing what was the Population of the Colony, and I^umher of Houses therein, ten years previous to the discovery of gold, we supply the following. OT (-? <1 H O H •sitJ'lox I'BI0U0O o o o:) — > o (M Ol ^ »o CO cs 1-1 r-l 11738 4479 454 *S0ii{m0^ GO (M kO r-1 QO CO C5 05 00 WO 00 r-( r-l r-l (0^ 3464 1803 150 'S0IEJ\[ (M 00 O CS CO 05 O 05 o CO *0 *0 r-H r-l ^ r— i-H 8274 2676 304 NUMBER OF EACH AGE. Females. •spjBAvcIn PUE 09 WO • r-l . . CO 05 • *09 Japun puB gf -t- CO r-l 00 CO 1 86 [ 98 ’gf J0pun puE iz WO WO WO CO 00 O 05 05 r— 1 00 05 GO 1-- W5 T#4 00 05 ’IZ Jopun PUE fl I'- 1:^ Cvj WO CO 05 (M 1-1 r-l CO GO CO 212 23 •fl J0pun pUEi (M CO GO CO CO Ttl i-H i-l r-l CO 395 225 9 "1 J0pun PUE Z CO 05 CO 1-- ^ CO 05 r-l 05 05 CO wo 05 205 17 •s.iE0;C z J0puil CO CO O O GO r-l rH 05 r-H 05 340 CO wo 5>- I— 1 I— 1 Males. •spiEAvcIn puE 09 CO 05 05 CO 05 rH 1-- i—H *09 Japun puE gf WO 00 WO 00 T^i wo O 442 o o CO 1-1 •gf j;0pun puE iz WO WO 00 05 WO WO -rti o CO CO Ttn 05 GO CO 6045 1829 222 *15 Japun puE fl wo GO GO CO OO rtl CO WO CO 561 206 25 J0pun puE 1 '^tl 05 r-l r-l O 05 r-H CO 05 CO 395 CO wo 05 1-1 '1 j0pun pUE Z Tfl o O I-H GO 05 05 CO 05 CO 05 Ttt 219 21 •sj;E0ii z 05 CO 00 GO T}i Ttl l—l 1— I 05 305 05 O WO COUNTY OR DISTRICT. County of Bourke ,, Grant „ Normanby ^ . . » Tk* A • 5 . f Western Port Commissioners Districts Total Melbourne Geelong OJ P CO o 00 o M M t~i H w p-l <1 H (A h^l O Ph Cl-1 O Ph O ‘C m PM 5 <1 HOUSES.— 1841 . ESTIMATED POPULATION' OF THE GOLD FIELDS, 1854. Average of 1st Quarter. Average of 2nd Quarter Average of 3rd Quarter Average of 4th Quarter. Average of Year. Men 57,871 77,123 77,186 62,982 68,790 Women 14,870 17,469 17,096 13,125 15,640 Children .... 11,177 19,079 18,765 14,662 15,921 Total 83,918 113,671 113,047 90,669 100,351 CENSUS OF VICTORIA, 1855-6. (From the Kegistrar General’s Office.) The follomng statement will show the actual population of the Colony at the commencement of the present year, so far as the same can he calculated from the Census of 1854, the Immigration Agent’s subsequent returns, and the Registers of Births and Deaths. By the Census Returns there were on the 26th April, 1854 Males. Females. Totals. 155,876 80,900 236,798 Subsequent arrival by sea to 31st December, 1854 Births registered same period Departures by sea same period . . . Deaths registered same period 39,386 17,245 56,631 5,914 18,054 3,997 22,051 3,500 The ascertained population of Victoria on the 1st January, 1855, consisted therefore of 273,792 persons of all ages. Total population on the 1st January, 1856, 319,223. w W . H ^ Pm ^ O H 00 pH O - Cu X OO w ^ Q CQ 1 ^ CQ >H o W H S p^ . o ^ Pm O o pq p> »— I H <1 P^ -«1 Pm ^ pq g W ^ p-( Pm O w. H Ph O H Ph S H S W M P^ P^ W r-i ^ Pm »-J (— I pg ft <1 H >o lO OO tH Exports. £ 12 , 548,538 458,016 ■ 231,379 117,722 68,051 9,192 36,296 13 , 469.194 Imports. GO CO C-l lO Ci o CO o 05 CO C 5 00 — ' CO C<) lO CO o p -w ^ o' r ^(MCOOb-C^J'OC^l <35 r-^ (M 1— 1 <35 rH 11 , 568 , 904 ] 1854. 1 Exports. 1>- O <0 lO OO 1— < CM CO CO < 0 ^ « CO*' <35 ‘O -tOl>- .— 1 O 1-1 * cS '-f' 11 , 787,227 Imports. C0iOO5U0lOr— CO 00 lo CO lo «^ - CO CO - UO CO CO rH iO 'yS CO 05 O ^ , of co" *0 X^ <35" 1 I 1 i <3f r-T 11 , 061,543 Imports. £ 13 , 873,426 1 , 702,341 158,555 91,377 16,938 x^ CO CO of GO 00 rH b- o o o SOPhPhPh ^PP 113 I THE FOLLOWING EETUEN WILL SHOW THE TOTAL SHIPMENTS OF GOLD FEOM THE COLONIES OF NEW SOUTH WALES AND VICTOEIA FEOM 1851 TO 1855. GOLD FEOM AUSTEALIA. A return moved for by Mr. Hankey, M.P., shows that in 1855 64,384 ounces of gold were exported from New South Wales (value £209,256) against 237,910 ounces in 1854, 548,052 ounces in 1853, 962,873 in 1852, and 144,120 ounces in 1851. The export of gold from Victoria was in 1855, 2,575,745 ounces (value £11,303,980), against 2,144,699 ounces in 1854, 2,497,723 ounces in 1853, 1,988,526 ounces in 1852, and 145,137 ounces in 1851. Some of this gold was exported to America and to foreign countries, but all the gold exported from New South Wales came to England. The grand total value of the gold exported from both colonies in the five years already mentioned amounts to £41,630,625. 114 GOLD DECEIVED BY ESCORT FOR THIRTEEN WEEKS IN 1856, With the Total of the Corresponding Weeks of 1855. *5581 moj, •-^ooa5«305«:)00‘ocot^TfHi^«o N O co_ O lo" r-T C<^ lo cT oT cT of Oi o' CNCOOICOCOCOCO'«^<'^‘Oi-ic-OiO^ O Tin" r-T o' --T 00“ cf 00 of cT 00“ O ^ O o CO 00 •BOOAV IlIH ^srea ^l>-COOOOirHlOO''*<^OCOt— 'ifl NOOf-iiOCOOOCOJr^Ox^tOOOCO (-vCOrfiTfiOOOOUSiOOlUOOt^^ ^COOlCOC-r-lr-l— i •nSnojoQifjpTAT sioo‘oi:^coco^-'=tiAoooa>o^ H^UOaOqAJBJ\[ QOAOCO'rt-»0'<^HTtH'?jH(MTfirHCOO^ ^OJCC|O»C 0 O 10 ^C 0 '^rH(M(M. 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P^ O •73 SI P^ Pq s g w M H Ph O FH O -li P^ H m pq <1 'S.Sts pu '§ a M •ii 0^ jJ C’^'3 ft .'2 CO CO >0 CD O tH 05 lO -i ti3 ^ .2 ^ p <1 (P 186 NEW SOUTH WALES. 187 AUSTRALIAN DEBTORS AND ENGLISH CREDITORS. Their loss is our gain.’^ A remark as familiar as household words to any one who may have resided for a short period in any of the Australian colonies. It is an observation invariably provoked on the occasion of any great failure or failures in which those good-natured creditors north of the line happen to be the victims of liberal-minded debtors on the south side. So often has the sound met our ears that we believe it a national term of consolation in bad times. They say, and say truly, if you send us goods and get nothing for them, your loss is our gain.^^ It would now appear by the following account, copied from The Times,’’ that in future it will be a difficult matter for those in the mother country to obtain the trifle they may suppose themselves entitled to, even from an insolvent estate. Gety did we say ? Should their claims resemble that of the respectable Arm in question, they will not only not get anything, but they will not be allowed to prove that they are entitled to anything. It seems there are so many persons so much alike in the colonies that although one may represent many in many cases, the plural number cannot represent any particular one in any case, except for the purpose of administering colonial justice to absent Englishmen. 188 NEW SOUTH WALES. COMMERCIAL LAW IN AUSTRALIA. ‘The Sydney Morning Herald’ of the 26th of April reports a judgment of the Insolvency Court of that colony which appears of some importance to the interests of English merchants. An application was made to the Chief Com- missioner in the insolvent estate of Gr, C. Tuting and Co. to allow the sum of £6,175 3s. 4d. to he ranked against the said estate as a debt alleged to he due by them to the firm of Copestake, Moore, and Co., of London, for goods sold and delivered. This application was opposed by counsel for the colonial creditors upon the following grounds : — “1. That no priority of contract originally existed be- tween the insolvents and Copestake, Moore, and Co. “ 2. That by no subsequent act of theirs was the original debt (for which, he contended, Mr. Tuting alone was liable), so adopted, or recognized, as to render their estate liable for payment to Messrs. Copestake, Moore, and Co. “ On the other hand, it was contended by the counsel for Messrs. Copestake, Moore, and Co., that even if the evidence taken before the Chief Commissioner was not sufficient to establish the original liability of the insolvents (which he by no means admitted), yet that by their subsequent conduct and dealings they clearly adopted the original contract, and were therefore liable for payment of the original debt. “ The facts of the case, as they appeared in evidence, were shortly these : — Mr. Gr. C. Tuting, of Sydney, had for many years been extensively engaged in importing goods from London for the Sydney market. Among others, he imported largely from the house of Messrs. Copestake, Moore, and Co., of London, and up to the 1st of September, 1853, carried on the business in Sydney in his own name, and (so far as ap- pears from the evidence) on his own account. On the 1st of September, 1853, Mr. Gr. C. Tuting entered into a partner- ship with two gentlemen named Cousens and Yallack (neither NEW SOUTH WALES. 189 of whom was a capitalist), and who were formerly employed by Mr. Tilting when conducting business on his own account. The partnership thus formed was carried on under the name, style, and firm of G-. C. Tuting and Co., of Sydney. One of the express stipulations of this partnership, however (as proved by the evidence of Mr. Tuting, as also that of Messrs. Cousens and Yallack), was that Mr. Tuting was to reserve to himself the exclusive right of importing goods from London as heretofore, and to be at liberty to dispose of such goods on arrival in Sydney at his own discretion, and to whom he pleased. The partnership being thus formed, Mr. Gr. C. Tuting continued to order goods from Copestake, Moore, and Co., in his own name, as before, which, on arrival in Sydney, were in every instance sold by Mr. Tuting to his copartners, Cousens and Yallack, sometimes for cash, and sometimes without making any express agreement either as regards price or payment, which was left as a matter for future arrangement. From the books of the firm produced at the examinations of the insolvents it appeared that Mr. Gr. C. Tuting was duly credited by the firm with all goods thus purchased from him, and debited with all moneys drawn on account of the said goods. In the month of May or June, 1855, a power of attorney from Copestake, Moore, and Co., of London, to Mr. William Wise (then in the employ of Messrs. Lay, Glaister, and Co., of Sydney), arrived in the colony. This power is dated London, 5th of February, 1855, and under the power of substitution therein contained, Mr. Wise (by indenture of the 16th of November, 1855,) duly appointed Mr. Tom Ray as attorney for Copestake, Moore, and Co. Mr. Ray, in pursuance of the power thus vested in him, called on Mr. Tuting and handed him an account current with Copestake, Moore, and Co. In his evidence of the 10th of March, Mr. Ray says, * I saw Mr. Tuting in May or June, 1855, with reference to Copestake and Co.’s claim against Tuting; a few days afterwards I 190 NEW SOUTH WALES. furnislied him with an account current, which he said was quite correct ; he said he had a scheme to propose for paying it off, which was to pay off the whole debt with interest in sixteen months, at £300 to £400 per month. In conse- quence of that conversation the hills were drawn about the middle of June, whieh (with interest) amounted to £6,171 3s. 4d. I sent the hills about the middle or the 20th of June to Tuting, and on the 14th of August I received hack sixteen hills accepted.’ The first of these hills was paid at maturity by a check of the firm ; hut it also appeared from the hooks in evidence that the amount so paid was carried to the debit of Mr. Tuting’ s private account. On the 20th of October last the firm of Tuting and Co. became insolvent, and their estate was duly placed under sequestration, and the whole of these hills (with the exception of the one paid) have since been returned to the official assignee, the new claimants (through their attorney, Mr. Eay) declining to prove upon these hills, merely using them as evidence of the adoption of the debt by Tuting and Co. The question therefore which the commissioner had to determine was this, — whether under the circumstances already stated Mr. George C. Tuting alone was liable for the payment of these goods, or whether Messrs. Copestake, Moore, and Co., could prove their debt against the joint estate of G. C. Tuting and Co. The learned Commissioner, in an elaborate judgment, reviewed the evidence, and concluded as follows ; — ‘ Looking at all the circumstances of this case, and seeing that the authorities referred to establish the principle ‘ that in order to convert a separate into a joint debt there must he the deliberate and mutual assent of three parties,’ and being unable to discover that assent here, I am of opinion that I ought not to allow this claim to he ranked as a debt against the estate of Tuting and Co., and I therefore reject it accordingly.’ ” NEW SOUTH WALES. 191 THE GOVERNOR OF NEW SOUTH WALES. Within the region of civilised society there does not perhaps exist two members of the human race in whom ability, character, disposition, and taste present a more striking contrast than that fur- nished by the late and present Governors of New South Wales, Sir Charles Fitzroy, and Sir William Denison. While the former was all that a Go- vernor ought not to have been, the latter would appear to be all, or nearly all, that a Governor should be. Indeed, the official incapacity and self-indulgence of the one are succeeded by the comprehensive faculty and prudent habits of the other. If, as is generally admitted, the working classes take their tone from their superiors, or at least from those in a superior station of life, the public abuses and social evils for which the colony of New South Wales was notorious during the rule of Sir Charles Fitzroy, may still continue to create regret, but cannot longer cause surprise — even on the part of strangers. The extravagant doings of the Governor and his profligate Court ’’ are patent to every colonist. As their exposition here would only be interesting to those who are curious in such matters, we close the subject. Simple reference to past failings or follies may sometimes 192 NEW SOUTH WALES. suggest a profitable lesson for the present or future. But the rule as well as the misrule of the late Governor, so far as the colony is con- cerned, are for ever closed. And to expatiate, without a laudable object, on things of the past were to display something more censurable than a want of judgment. The business of the colony — the business of the English government — is no longer with the late, but with the present Governor. That the rule of Sir William Denison will satisfy the colonists, so far as they are capable of satisfaction, few if any impartial persons are disposed to doubt. That his rule will satisfy those to whom he is more imme- diately responsible there can be no doubt whatever. In free countries the official acts of public men are public property, and are not unfrequently judged and commented on, not by their merits, but by the peculiar fancies, interested and other- wise, of the commentators.* Honest men may, and often do for a time, excite popular indignation, and become themselves the objects of general con- demnation. But those who regard the public weal as of greater value than the empty sounds of praise which proceed from the advocacy of class or partial measures, will either survive an unjust verdict, or feeTassured that it will be reversed by posterity. * At one period, the Tasmanian public denounced Sir William Denison as a very demon. Before Sir William’s departure from Tasmania, the public proclaimed their ruler as nothing less than a man, and little less than an angel. TASMANIA. (LATE VAN DIEMEN’S LAND.) 0 TASMANIA. (late van Diemen’s land.) Presuming the reader to be an Englishman, we would ask whether he is acquainted with the natural beauties of his own country — or rather with the combined beauties of the United King- dom? for it has been the practice of late years with a certain class of British subjects, whose means, rather than their accomplishments, second their desire to rank with the fashionable world, to arrange and execute a continental tour, without having seen more of their own country than the distance from the point of embarkation compels them to cross before leaving the English shore for another. Should the reader, however, be familiar with the grandeur of the Scottish moun- tains, the romantic views on the Irish coast, the charming beauties of the Cumberland lakes, the fertile valleys of the South, and the bold scenery of the North of Devon, he may then draw on his imagination for a series of views to be found on and around an island on the opposite side of the 196 TASMANIA. globe ; for, in beauty and grandeur, many if not all the delightful spots previously named are equalled, if not surpassed, in this distant and comparatively unknown land — Tasmania. Both the land and lake scenery in the island must be pronounced by any true lover of the beauties of nature to be superbly grand — so grand as almost to baffle an attempt at description. The climate, too, is no less beautiful than the country. Why so delightful an island should have been selected as a penal settlement, we are at a loss to conjecture. Probably the selection was made for the purpose of improving or re- storing constitutions previously steeped in vice, and impaired by dissipation. If so, we presume the desired end has been obtained, for in no part of the habitable globe can be seen a more healthy body of individuals than the criminals at present under sentence in this penal settlement. But what a fearful drawback to this lovely country and climate is the criminal part of the population — those whose terms of imprisonment have expired or who have tickets of leave, and others whose morals and habits are contaminated by association with them. It is only necessary to refer to the Police Summary under the head of Statistical Information, to satisfy the reader of the fearful amount of crime with which the colony is still pregnant. It will be found that the number of offences committed in the city TASMANIA. 197 of Ilobart with a population of only 23,000, exceeds by fifty per cent, that of Liverpool with its 296,000 inhabitants. Although the colony is no longer to be the receptacle for convicted criminals from Great Britain, it will require a very lengthened period — ^probably a century or more — to purge or even partially to purify the social atmosphere of the infectious vapour with which it is impregnated. The following descriptive account from a little work published some years since, will give our readers a -correct idea of the leading features of the colony : — ‘‘This interesting island lies between the parallels of forty-one degrees twenty minutes south, and between the meridians of one hundred and forty-four degrees forty minutes, and one hundred and forty- eight degrees twenty minutes of east longitude. Its most northern points stretching into Bass’s Strait towards New Holland, are Cape Grim on the western extremity, and Cape Portland on the eastern, distant from each other about one hundred and fifty miles, and its most southerly projections are the South-west and South Capes, and Tasman’s Head, at the south end of Brune Island, stretching out like three immense rocky buttresses into the great Southern Ocean to defend as it were, the island against the incursions of that stormy sea. Its greatest extent from north to south may thus be estimated at about two hundred and ten miles, and from east to west one hundred and fifty miles, calculating the degrees of longitude in that parallel at the average of about fifty miles each, and covering an extent of surface of about twenty-four thousand square miles, or fifteen millions of acres. 198 TASMANIA. ^‘The general character of this surface is hilly and mountainous, the mountains rising to the height of from three to four thousand feet; the hills being mostly cov- ered with trees. The climate in the very lofty and exposed regions checks vegetation, the tops of the mountains being for five or six months in the year, from April till October, more or less covered with snow. A range of lofty moun- tains runs across the island from north to south, attracting towards it a corresponding elevation of surrounding land, the highest points of which are Ouamhy’s Bluff*, over- hanging JN’orfolk Plains, the Peak of Teneriffe, Mount Pield, Mount "Wellington, and the great southern moun- tains near Port Davey. The other most lofty points of land in this range, are the extreme Western and Platform Bluff’s, and the Table Mountain, Jericho, and in more insulated positions, stretching along the eastern side, the beautiful and picturesque eminences of Benlomond, and St. Paul’s Dome, on the northern quarter of the island, and the Three-thumb Mountains, near Prasser’s Bay, and the singular rocky heights on Maria Island called the Bishop and Clerk. Besides these a minor range of lofty mountains extends from the western coast at Mounts Heemskirk and Teehan along a high rugged chain towards the Western Bluff, where it joins the north and south range. The hilly character of the country, especially on the southern side of the island, admits of hut little inter- ruption. The hills are not only frequent, but continuously so, the general face of the island being a never ending succession of hill and dale, the traveller no sooner arriving at the bottom of one hill than he has to ascend another, often three or four times in the space of one mile ; while at other points the land swells up into greater heights, reaching along several miles of ascent. The level parts, marshes, or plains, as they are called in the colony, that TASMANIA. 199 give relief to this fatiguing surface are comparatively few. Among the first of these, beginning at the south, and on the opposite side of the Derwent to the east of Hobart Town, may be mentioned the rich and highly cultivated country round Pittwater; the cultivated tracts of Brushy and Prosser’s Plains, towards Oyster Bay ; the level spot around where the town of Brighton is built, originally called Stony Plains, and extending with little inter- ruption to the bottom of Constitution Hill, a distance of about six miles in length, and from two to three in width ; the fertile farms at the Green Ponds and Cross Marsh ; and further to the west, on the banks of the Derwent and Eiver Ouse, the beautiful tract of country called Sorell Plains; and higher up, the extensive district of the Clyde, St. Patrick’s Plains on the banks of the Shannon, and other extensive tracts of level country round the lakes ; on the east of the road to Launceston, York, Salt Pan, St. Paul’s, and Break -o’ -day Plains, the fine country round Ross, and along the banks of the Macquaria and Elizabeth rivers ; and, lastly, the noble tract of rich land on the banlis of the South Esk, the Lake River, hlorfolk Plains, as far as the eye can reach, bounded on the east by the picturesque heights of Benlomond, and on the west by the no less romantic range of the W estern Mountains, and extending to the north as far as Launceston, forming a tract of nearly forty miles in width, and in a great measure overspread with valuable and extensive farms, many of them in a high state of cultivation. ‘‘ The reader, however, must not conclude from this description either that the hills of this island are all sterile or the plains all fertile. On the contrary, though most of the larger hills and mountains are either too steep and rocky, or too thickly covered with timber to admit of cultivation, a large proportion of the more moderately sized hills and gentler undulations are thickly covered 200 TASMANIA. with herbage, presenting to the view an agreeable suc- cession of moderately wooded downs, and affording excellent pasture to sheep and cattle. Many of the most thickly wooded and steep hills nevertheless possess a rich soil, which though difficult of access, and too expensive and laborious in the present state of the colony to be cleared, may at some future period be brought under cultivation. Indeed this has already in part been done on several of the hills round Hobart Town, where though the surface is too deep to admit of the operation of the plough, yet it amply repays the labor of the spade and hoe by the luxuriance of its vegetable productions. On the other hand, many of the more extended plains are either too bleak, or have been so washed and swept by the prevailing westerly winds to which their unbroken surface exposes them, that much of the soil is cold, thin, and comparatively valueless. Altogether, and on the most liberal computa- tion, the productive surface of the island cannot fairly be estimated at more than one-third. ‘‘To one accustomed to the moist climate and plenti- fully watered countries of England, Scotland, or Ireland, Tasmania at first sight may present a dry and unpro- ductive appearance ; but upon a nearer acquaintance it will put on a more inviting aspect. Although, however, the rivers and streams may not be so large nor so frequent as in England, they are sufficiently so to answer every purpose of agriculture ; and water — clear wholesome water, unlike that in Victoria — is more or less to be found in every part of the island. With the exception of the two inlets of the sea at the mouths of the Derwent and Tamar, there is no inland navigation in the colony. The chief rivers in the settled parts of the island are the Derwent, with its tributary streams, the Jordan, Clyde, Shannon, Ouse, and the Huon, flowing into the ocean on the southern side of the island ; and on the northern the Tamar, being TASMANIA. 201 the collected waters of the North and South Esk, the Lake, and Western Rivers. In addition to these, in the higher regions of the interior are several extensive lakes or sheets of water. According to the lattitude of Tasmania it ought to enjoy a climate equal to that of the southern parts of France, or the northern parts of Spain and Italy along the coasts of the Mediterranean. But the general tem- perature of a country is affected by other circumstances besides that of latitude, and geographers have generally agreed that the great extent of the uninterrupted ocean round the South Pole, compared to that in the northern hemisphere, where land so much more abounds, makes a difference in the climate equal to several degrees of latitude. It would however appear that this difference is scarcely sensible under the fortieth degree of latitude, for while the summer heat at Buenos Ayres, the Cape of Grood Hope, and Sydney, is as great as at Gibraltar, Tunis, or Charleston, or Bermuda in America; Patagonia, New Zealand, and Tasmania have a temperature almost as cold in the summer season as that of London, Brussels, or, at least, as Paris or Vienna. While therefore Tasmania has a portion of the sun’s rays, and a length of day equal to that enjoyed by the inhabitants of Rome, Constantinople, or Madrid, in the mildest winters, its summer heats are so moderated as to be not only congenial but delightful to a person who has lived to maturity in an English climate, and whose system has become habituated to it. However warm the middle of the day may be, it is invariably attended by a morning and evening so cool as completely to brace and restore any enervating effects that the meridian heat might have occasioned ; and while the summer heat is thus moderated, the inclemency of winter is equally dissipated by the equality of temperature diffused from the extent of ocean surrounding its insular position. 202 TASMANIA. ‘‘Except on the days when rain actually falls, which on an average do not exceed fifty or sixty out of the three hundred and sixty-five, the sky is clear and the sun brilliant. The atmosphere is, consequently, for the most part dry, pure and elastic, which renders the system in a great measure insensible to the sudden changes of temperature that so frequently occur, especially at Hobart Town, under the infiuence of Mount Wellington, and which otherwise must prove injurious to the health, especially of persons with delicate constitutions. The extreme of summer generally shows itself in two or three sultry days when a hot wind from the north-west at times prevails, so oppressive as to raise the mercury for three or four hours in the middle of the day to ninety and even one hundred and one hundred and ten degrees. It is however to be remarked, that the extensive fires which frequently occur in the woods in the heat of summer, when the accidental dropping of a spark will spread the flames for miles along the hills, may be reasonably supposed to have the efibct of increasing the heat of the air, especially if the absence of winds, and the relaxed torpid state of the atmosphere at the time should arrest and, as it were, beat down its heated volumes on the valleys and lower regions, where the towns are generally situated. In winter the frost at night, except in the higher regions of the interior, or in some deep dell, where the sun’s rays scarcely ever reach, is never so severe as to withstand the heat of the ensuing day. Sleet or snow generally falls once or twice a year, but never lies on the ground above a day or two, except on the tops of the mountains, or in the central parts of the island, where it has been known to continue for a week or ten days. “In such a climate, especially with the settlers or farmers, owing to the active life they lead, the health of the inhabit- ants, as might besupposed, is of the best kind. The TASMANIA. 203 atmosphere, as we have said, is for the most part dry and elastic, the cfFcct of which is to fortify and promote both animal and vegetable life ; for as it contains a larger proportion of oxygen than most countries of the old world, the stimulating effect of this gas taken into the lungs, naturally communicates with the stomach, and tends to keep in a healthy state, the digestive action of that grand organ on which the habit and temperament of the body mainly depends. The aromatic herbs and shrubs also, which everywhere cover the island, impregnate the air with their perfume, and cannot fail in some degree to spread a certain feeling of health and comfort over the human frame.” Than Sir Henry Young a more prudent and conciliatory Governor could hardly be found in any of the English colonies. His letter to The Times however will explain how any officer on duty in a distant part of Her Majesty’s dominions may, through the selfish motives of a few dema- gogues, when ingeniously disguised by the venal part of an unscrupulous Colonial press, become the subject of unmerited reproof or injury. Had The Times,” or any other respectable part of the English press been in possession of full par- ticulars of the late illegal political proceedings in Tasmania, Sir Henry Young would have had no occasion to pen the following letter : — THE EDITOR OF ‘THE TIMES.’ “ SiE, — In your powerful and world-known journal ‘ The Times,’ of the 10th of April last, you have, for lack of full and correct information, injuriously libelled me as ‘a 204 TASMANIA. Governor dissolving his Council with a precipitation and violence which recall the days of the Oxford Parliament of Charles II., or the attempt to seize the five Members by Charles I.^ “ I notice the libel as soon as it reaches me at the anti- podes, yet the injustice which your philippic does me necessarily retains the Vantage ground of being without reply or refutation for six or seven months. I trust that this consideration will prompt you to be generous to the extent of having the whole case before you whenever in future you assail under the advantage of so long an exemp- tion from the possibility of defence or contradiction. ‘‘ The system of appointing naval and military governors is not, as you insinuate, illustrated in my case, for the honor of having ever belonged to the army or navy I do not possess. The civil service has been from early youth my sole profession, and I appeal confidently to official records as abundantly proving that, as a colonial ruler in the eastern districts of the Cape of Good Hope and in South Australia, my policy and practice have been liberal and constitutional, and in keeping with that of the great popular statesman whose name I bear as one of my own, owing to my late father’s connexion with the family of Pox. In South Australia upwards of thirty popularly elected district councils were formed in my administration. In Tasmania, by the constitutional prerogative of prorogation (not dissolution, as you state), I upheld the respect due to the supreme judicature and the sanctity of the writ of Habeas Corpus as a time-honored guarantee of the liberty of an Englishman against an illegal warrant ; and by the prorogation I preserved the public peace. The prorogation was most deliberate, unexceptionable in tone, language, and manner, and opportune, for it quietly in the evening prevented the violence of an impending riot, publicly threatened and annonnced to take place the next morning. TASMANIA. 205 ‘‘ Wlicn Mr. Duncombe’s question on Tasmania was im- perfectly answered in the House of Commons the whole of the correspondence had not reached Downing- street ; it has now, and I refer you to it as confirmatory of the above account. For my own part, I am most willing to quit the office of Governor whenever I am unable to exemplify the axiom — on which my policy hitherto has been founded — that Englishmen can be constitutionally governed by their own will and consent. I beg to subscribe myself your obedient humble servant, ‘^H. E. E. Young. “ Government House, Hobart Town, July 5.” With reference to the Grovernment of Tasmania, we will merely observe that the present able and upright Governor appears to be encompassed by many difficulties. His own honesty is the very thing that produces envy and hatred in those persons of an opposite character, and may alone account for the malignity of the turbident spirits by whom he is at present surrounded. Should Sir Henry Young, without much opposition and many obstacles, succeed in his desire to administer the government of Tasmania in a manner the most conducive to the welfare of the colony and its inhabitants, he will surprise many able and inteUigent men, and, among the number, if we mistake not, will be — himself. RETURN SHOWING THE POPULATION OF THE COLONY CO P QJ cj’ti o o OT .9 ^ CS ^ « CO ••' C3 CB 03 .b ^ -T CO rii I— I f'S CO S lO T— 1 T— < CS| CO pJ O o CO Oi uo o ^o VO ^ gPo CO »-t VO 1^ 05^ Co'' CT o • t-H 1— 1 O T— 1 VO 05 ^ gPo O 10^»0 t3 ® ^ oo &i M CO*' cC cT vo'' Th' 05" O '-' Ph «> 1— < 1— t 1— H CO S tr pi S 00 05 r-H CM n 1 ^ t O ^ r— 1 CO CO O 05 1-H 0^0^ t-H SO 1— 1 r-H (J5 co" 05" OI rH T— ( CO o CO C<3 VO t-H 00 i-i ^ * CO CM -rff 00 o r— < .H C rH t— CD jj 0^l-H CO VO 05 ^0^2 J<0*' CO*' cT ccT 8 O ■S r ? (U CO rH T— I rH VO C o Ph Total Population of the Colony, 1st January, 1856, 67,396. TASMANIA. 207 RETURN OF THE VALUE OF IMPORTS INTO, AND EXPORTS FROM, THE COLONY, FiiOM 1844 TO 1855. YEAR. VALUE OF IMPORTS. VALUE OF EXPORTS. £ £ 1844 . 442,988 408,799 1845 . 520,562 422,218 1846 . 561,238 582,585 1847 . 724,593 600,876 1848 . 594,154 490,281 1849 . 573,730 558,682 1850 . 658,540 613,850 1851 . 641,609 665,790 1852 . 860,488 1,509,883 1853 . 2,273,397 1,757,596 1854 . 2,604,680 1,433,021 1855 . 1,559,797 1,428,560 POLICE SIJMMAEY. The following Snmmaiy, at the present moment, may be considered useful as showing the actual strength of the Police of this Colony before and after the reduction of 1853 and 1854. The number of Petty Constables for eighteen districts, exclusive of Hobart and Launceston, is only 145 ; and for Hobart and Launceston 89, including those for out- stations. The working of this Police Force by the number of cases brought before the Magistrates in 1851, was 16,807 ; in 1852, 22,030 ; in 1853, 25,904 ; in 1854, exclusive of Emu Bay, 24,007 ; and for the half-year up to the 1st July, 1855, 12,058 ; of these there were : — For Launceston. For Hobart. In 1851 2,244 7,616 „ 1852 4,361 7,806 „ 1853* 5,061 10,075 „ 1854 5,233 8,240 Half-year 1855 2,634 3,544 * The year in which reduction was made. 208 TASMANIA. This statement is important, as it shows the enormous work, independently of escorts, &c., &c., performed by the Police, and the fallacy of taking the amount of population as the basis upon which to apportion it. The nature of the population and the extent of territory to he protected is the true criterion. To illustrate this, we find by the Eeturns of 25th December, 1841, that: — Population. Area of Miles. No. of Police. Cases. Bristol . . 120,688 7 228 5,314 Liverpool 296,000 13 616 16,460 Edinburgh 146,133 H 274 10,917 Manchester 235,139 6i 317 13,345 Leeds 113,632 m 133 2,320 Glasgow 215,365 5 299 14,768 Birmingham. 182,698 131 391 5,556 Metropolitan District, I in 1840 j 1,500,000 — 4,323 70,717 Thus it will he seen that the amount of business at the Police Offices here exceeds that of Liverpool, with its 296,000 inhabitants, by fifty per cent ; that the City of Hobart, with its comparatively small population, furnishes in number, cases nearly equal to Manchester, with its 235,139 inhabi- tants, and the cases tried throughout the territory being equal to almost one-third of the number in the Metropolitan District, with a population of 1,500,000. 1 ^" TASMANIA. 209 I CONSTABULAKY OF VAN DIEMEN’S LAND. (NOW TASMANIA.) m '13 m DATE. ■♦J cS tt) |l 5^ ^ ci o a> S .25 “ 'o H O cc o ^ o 31st July, 1853, authorised strength With power to employ 50 extra constables on emergencies, £600. 1st August, 1853, reduc- tion by Government . . 100 390 62 38 47 537 1st Jim., 1854, reduction >■ by Iiegislative Council . 55 156 12 3 171 And since . . . , i Allowance to employ extra constables reduced from £600 to £200. Present Strength . . 234 50 35 47 366 Petty District Deduct for Hobart . . 63 24 7 1 Do. Launceston 26 8 4) 89 32 11 132 Total force for 18 Country Districts 145 50 3 36 234 j SYNOPSIS OF OFFENCES COMMITTED IN THE COLONY OF VAN DIEMEN’S LAND. PERIODS. Free. Bond. Total. Number of offences in 1851 Do. 1852 Do, 1853 Do. 1854 f Do. 1 year June 1855 \ 5.632 9,841 12,574 15,137 8.632 11,175 12,189 13,330 8,870 3,422 16,807 22,030 25,904 24,007 12,058 P EETIJEN OF THE AMOUNT OF THE EEVENUE OF THE COLONY, raoM 1844 TO 1854. a ^ o , a rS a ^ ^ .S S'S a a g 0 0 03 OOpq a a a o o o U ?-{ u Ph Ph Ph § Tj f-i O ^ cj cS o 2 opq^^ 2 § 5-2 a 3 2 2 O ^ rd o| o ^ S^cH r3 ^ ^ O H TiS 03 . *0 c3 rl CO ^ ^ a c3 ^ hA a art o O Ti cj rd g O ^ 2o CD rS a ^ O -43 O a ^ o o o M o o o o o o o o o ^ O^o^o^ O (N CO »0 CO *0 o O 05 6 8 6 o t-H rH CO o o rH »o CM o u:) »o r-H r-H CO C?5 CO 05 (M 05 fM. CO 00 05 o (M 00 »o CO o >0 CO (M^C^OO^ ‘O CO*' co" o' oT co'' ‘d' cT r-T CO CO cq c<< CO TiH QO >0 r— rH r-H t-H r-H r— i t-H r-H T— 1 T-H (M Tf ^ OC) TtH Th TjH Tfl 00 CO 00 00 00 ^ (N CO Thi lO *-o »o o 00 00 00 00 *£t ^ 'It 210 Includes Land Revenue. t Not including Land Revenue. o 1-H o Q w H P-i O Ph H h-H P k; p p M P P W EH p O H P O P P EH P O P P P EH p p a CO O 03 O CO o d ^■1 c3 O pq:t^ § • § ' •S- O CO iO ^ O O »0 J>- 05 CO 05 CO CO (M ^ co^i>^t^ cT ocT of CO CO Ol T}H CO OI CO CO 05 Tfi CO O OI t-H CO lO Tf* CO oT J>^ t-T co'' CO CO 05 lO CO TJH Tfl TJH 00 00 00 00 00 O r-( Ol CO lo ^ O lO iO 00 00 00 00 00 211 TAEIFF OF TASMANIA. IMPORT DUTIES. “duty”.^ s. d. Brandy, the gallon 12 0 Bnm, and all other spirits and strong waters, the gallon, and so on in propor- tion with respect only to spirits and strong waters in bottle, or for any greater or less quantity than a gallon, not being less than one-eighth part of a gallon 9 0 Wines, in wood, the gallon 10 Ditto, in bottle, the dozen reputed quart bottles 4 0 Ditto, the dozen reputed pint ditto ..20 Tobacco (snuff excepted) and cigars, the lb 2 0 Tea, ditto 0 3 Baw sugar and molasses, the cwt. ..30 Defined sugars, ditto 6 0 Coffee, the lb 0 1^ Dried fruits, ditto 0 1 Hops, ditto 0 2 Malt liquors, in wood, the gallon ... 0 2 Ditto, in bottle, the dozen reputed quart bottles 10 Ditto, the dozen reputed pint, ditto ..06 EXEMPT EEOM DUTY. Wines imported or pnrcliased in bond for the supply of regimental messes. All articles imported for the supply of her Majesty’s land or sea forces. All articles imported for the use of her Majesty’s Government. 2^2 TASMANIA. 213 By tlie following Table (compiled by Mr. West- garth) it will be seen that a large quantity of Agricultural Produce annually leaves this colony for Victoria. Comparative view of the value of Imports into, and Exports from, the colony of Tasmania, for the years 1853, 1854, and 1855, respectively. IMPORTS. Distinguishing the place from which sent. From 1853. 1854. 1855. £ £ £ United Kingdom 1,506,093 1,776,694 920,695 British Colonies 595,792 696,613 540,824 Foreign States 171,512 131,373 98,278 Total 2,273,397 2,604,680 1,559,797 EXPORTS. Distinguishing the place to which sent. Where sent. 1853. 1854. 1855. £ £ £ United Kingdom 581,815 424,575 445,557 British Colonies 1,167,786 1,007,287 969,070 Foreign States 7,995 1,159 13,933 Total 1,757,596 1,433,021 1,428,560 Eemark.^ — The exports to “ British Colonies ” are chiefly the supplies of Agricultural Produce to Victoria. 214 TASMANIA, LIST OF CHIEF PLACES IN TASMANIA. (foe which we aee indebted to the talented woek OF ME. WEST.) BEIDaEWATEE. A village and post station on the Derwent, in the parish of Wellington and county of Buckingham, twelve miles above Hobart. The Derwent, which is about three-quarters of a mile in width at this place, is Crossed by a bridge of wood, which forms a part of the main road from Hobart to Launceston, and is said to be the largest work of the kind in the Australian colonies. The river is spanned to a length of 2,300 feet by an earthen causeway, and the length of the bridge from the end of this to the northern shore is 1,010 feet, with a breadth of roadway of twenty-four feet; the whole length of the work being 3,310 feet, or nearly three-quarters of a mile. The navigation of the river is preserved by means of a moveable platform near the northern shore. The timber was procured from Mount Dromedary, seven miles from the bridge, which was begun in January, 1848, and opened in April, 1849. The cost was £7,580. BEH LOMOHD. A mountain in Cornwall, 5,000 feet high, about forty-live miles from Launceston, and fifteen from Fingal. A rivulet of the same name rises here, and falls into the South Esk, about thirty miles from Launceston. About fifteen miles north of this mountain is Ben Hevis, 3,900 feet high. During winter these elevated points, which are named after celebrated mountains of Scotland, are covered with snow, and seen from a distance, they present a magnificent appear- ance. They form parts of a chain of mountains extending inland from St. Patrick’s Head to the northern coast. TASMANIA. 215 BHIGHTON. A town in the parish of Drummond and county of Mon- mouth. It is on the eastern side of the Jordan, on the main road, seventeen miles from Hobart, and one-hundred- and four from Launceston. The country around Brighton is cultivated and fertile, and was early occupied. On the right is a branch road to Jerusalem and Jericho, districts on the Coal Eiver. On the left is the district on the J ordan, called the Broadmarsh. Brighton has a resident magistrate, a post station, several inns, small stores, and retail shops. The church (St. Mark’s) and police office are at Pontville, near the town. The population of the town and police dis- trict is 2,582, and the number of houses 427, half of which are of stone or brick. CAMPBELL TOWl^. A town in the parish of Campbelton and county of Somer- set, eighty-nine miles from Hobart, and forty- two from Launceston. It is situated in a level pastoral country, on the Elizabeth Eiver, and the main road from Hobart to Launceston passes through it. The town consists chiefly of one long street, in which are four large inns, a brewery, some stores, small shops, and an assembly room. There are in the town an episcopal and presbyterian church (St. Luke’s and St. Andrew’s), a Wesleyan chapel, and schools. The river is crossed by a bridge or causeway, 200 yards long, and on the southern side are numerous fine farms. The road to Avoca, Fingal, and the eastern coast here branches off from the main line. In the town there are also a gaol and police and post offices. There is a resident police magistrate. The population of the town and police district is 2,319, and the number of houses, 255 of which are of stone or brick, is 386. Campbell Town is also an electoral district. It is considered to be the middle district of the 216 TASMANIA. colony, and tlie Midland Agricultural Association originated here. HOBAET. In the parish of Hoharton, and county of Buckingham, is the chief town of the colony, and is in lat. 42°. 53’. S., and long. 21’. E. It was named after Lord Hobart, once secretary for the colonies ; and stands on the shores of Sullivan’s Cove, about fifteen miles from the entrance of the Derwent. It is finely situated on a rising ground, and covers a surface of nearly two square miles. On the western side it is hounded by a range of wooded hills, with Mount Wellington, a snow-capped mountain, 4,000 feet high, in the hack-ground. On the southern side of the harbor there are many beautiful residences, and, on a commanding emi- nence, fine military barracks. Close to the harbor, on the western side, stands the government-house, an extensive range of wooden buildings, erected at difierent times. Mulgrave Battery is on the southern side of the harbor. The streets are regular and well made ; and many of the buildings — some built of freestone — are commodious and handsome. The wharves are extensive and well constructed, and are lined with numerous large stone warehouses and stores. St. David’s church is a large well-built brick edifice, in the Gothic style, stuccoed, and well fitted up. The court house, nearly opposite the church, is a large stone building, containing various offices. The hospital and prisoners’ bar- racks, on the north-eastern side, are extensive buildings. The police office is a substantial edifice. The female factory and orphan schools, a short distance from the town, on the western side, are commodious buildings. The commissariat stores, the treasury, the bonded stores, the custom-house, and other public buildings are built of freestone. The legislative council chamber is included in the custom-house. On the north side of the harbor are situated the engineer TASMANIA. 217 stores and other government buildings. On this side also is the government domain, a large open piece of ground, used as a place of amusement and exercise. The magnetical observatory is erected here. Many of the shops are large and handsome. Besides St. David’s (the cathedral church), there are three handsome episcopalian churches — Trinity, St. George’s, and St. John’s. There are two preshyterian churches — St. Andrew’s and St. John’s — ^both commodious buildings — one Boman catholic church, two Wesleyan chapels, three congregational churches, a baptist chapel, a free preshyterian church, and a synagogue. There are four banks and a hank for savings, three local and two English insurance companies, and a company to establish steam communication with the adjoining colonies. The educa- tional establishments are the Higl^ School and Hutchins’ School, besides private schools. The public institutions are the Mechanics’ Institute, the Tasmanian Society of Natural Science, the Eoyal Society, the Public Library, Gardeners’ and Amateurs’ Horticultural Society, St. Mary’s Hospital, Dispensary and Humane Society, Dorcas Society, Hebrew Benevolent Institution, Asylum for the Protection of Desti- tute and Unfortunate Females, Branch Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge and for the Propagation of the Gospel, Auxiliary Bible Society, Wesleyan Library and Tract Society, Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts, Auxiliary London Missionary Society, Wesleyan Missionary Society, Colonial Missionary and Christian In- struction jSoeiety, Infant School, Auxiliary of British and Foreign School Society, Wesleyan Strangers’ Friend Society, Sunday School Union (including eight schools), three Ma- sonic Lodges, Masonic Benevolent Fund, three Odd Fellows’ Lodges, with Widows’ and Orphans’ Funds attached. Inde- pendent Order of Bechabites, Hibernian Benefit Society, four Temperance Societies, Society of Licensed Yictuallers, Choral Society, Mercantile Assistants’ Association, Turf 218 TASMANIA. Club, Bathing Association. There are a wet dock and a patent slip, and 170 vessels belonging to the port, their col- lective tonnage being 14,640. The population is 23,107, and the number of houses 4,050 ; 2,932 of which are of stone or brick. Eive bi-weekly newspapers and a Govern- ment Gazette’^ are published in Hobart. LAUIS'CESTON. In the parish of Launceston and county of Cornwall, is the second town of the colony, and is in lat. 41<^. 24’ S., and Ion. 147®. 10’. E. It stands at the confluence of the North and South Esk rivers, which here discharge their waters into the Tamar. It is one-hundred-and-twenty-one miles from Hobart, and forty from the sea at Port Halrymple. On the east and west it is bounded by hills, and on the north stretches the valley of the Tamar. The town is well laid out, and viewed from the hills which overlook it, or from the Tamar, it has a picturesque appearance. The wharves, which afford accommodation to vessels of large tonnage, extend along the river which forms the northern boundary. E arther up are numerous spacious stores and other commer- cial buildings. There are two large episcopalian churches, a handsome presbyterian church, a Eoman catholic church (all built in the Gothic style), a Wesleyan chapel, two con- gregational chapels, a free church, a baptist chapel, and a synagogue, all neat and commodious buildings. The court house, the gaol, the house of correction, female factory, and several other government establishments, are large and well built. Many of the shops, offices, inns, and private build- ings are of considerable size and respectable appearance. On the hill which bounds the town on the eastern side, and commands a splendid view of the town and river, are many private residences and gardens. There are four banks, four insurance offices, three printing establishments, and two bi- weekly newspapers. The principal public offices are the TASMANIA. 219 police office, the custom house, the post office, and the port office. The population of the town is 10,855 ; the number of houses, 2,181 ; 798 of which are of stone or brick. There are an .episcopal grammar school, a Wesleyan day school, an infant school, three episcopal day schools, a catholic school, seven Sunday schools, and numerous private schools. The public institutions, besides the banks and insurance offices, are a mechanics’ institute and reading room, a literary society, several circulating libraries, two horticultural so« cieties, a benevolent society, auxiliary bible society, two masonic lodges, odd fellows’ society, Eechabite society, and a teetotal society. There are seventy vessels belonging to the port, their collective tonnage being 8,564 tons. There is also a floating dock. MOUNTAINS. The principal mountains are the western range in West- moreland, of which the highest point is Ouamby’s or Dry’s Bluff, 4,590 feet above the sea ; a high rocky range in Cornwall, of which Ben Lomond and Ben Nevis are the highest points, and the Eldon range. A range extends along the western coast, and another farther inland, of which the highest points are the Frenchman’s Cap, 3,800 feet above the sea ; Mount Arrowsmith, east of the former 4,075 feet high ; Mount Humboldt, 5,520 feet ; Cradle Mountain, 4,700 feet. St. Valentine’s Peak, on the Van Diemen’s Land Company’s estate, is 4,000 feet high; Mount Wellington, near Hobart Town, 4,195 feet. NEW NORFOLK. A town in the parish of New Norfolk and county of Buckingham, on the Derwent and Lachlan rivulet, twenty - one miles from Hobart, and one-hundred- and-nineteen from Launceston. It has a resident police magistrate and post master, and contains an episcopal church (St. Matthew’s) 220 TASMANIA. and school, a Wesleyan chapel, and another place of worship, a police office, a government house, an asylum for insane persons, and several inns. The population of the town and district is 2,226, and the number of houses 389. The district contains several fine farms. Coaches run daily to New Norfolk from Hobart, and communication between the two places is also carried on by means of boats on the Derwent. OATLANDS. A considerable town in the parish of Oatlands and county of Monmouth, fifty-one miles from Hobart, and seventy from Launceston. It contains an episcopal (St. Matthew’s) and Roman catholic church, a Wesleyan chapel, several schools, a gaol, police and post offices, a military station, several inns, and other large buildings. It has a resident police magistrate, and courts of request and quarter sessions are held in the town. The supreme court sits twice in a year. The population of the town and police district is 1,873, and the number of houses 279. RICHMOND. A town at the mouth of the Coal River, in the parish of Ulva and county of Monmouth, fifteen, miles from Hobart, and one-hundred from Launceston. It contains an episcopal and a catholic church, a congregational chapel, a police office, post station, a gaol, and court house, and several inns. It has a resident police magistrate, and the population of the town and district, which consists of farms, is 1,344, and the number of houses 545, nearly half of which are of stone or brick. The Coal River, which here falls into the bay of Pittwater, is crossed at the town by an excellent stone bridge of six arches. ROSS. A township on the Macquarie, in the parish of Ross and TASMANIA. 221 county of Somerset, seventy- three miles from Ilohart, forty- seven from Launceston, and six from Campbell Town. It contains an episcopal church and school, a chapel, a police and post station, and two inns. The police magistrate of Campbell Town holds a court here once in a week. There is a bridge across the Macquarie at this township. The district is chiefly agricultural. WESTBURY. A town in the parish of Westhury and county of West- moreland, one-hundred- and- forty miles from Hobart, and twenty from Launceston. It has a resident police magis- trate, a post-master, and other officers, and contains an episcopal church and school, a Roman catholic church and school, a Wesleyan chapel, and three inns. The town and district has a population of 2,842, and 420 houses. THE GOVERNOR OF TASMANIA. We presume that Sir Henry Young has not found the convict island a ‘^bed of roses.’’ If however he has made so pleasing a discovery, he has succeeded in doing what none of his prede- cessors did before him. The romantic country and delightful climate of Tasmania must, we ima- gine, prove the most pleasing features to a mind like that of the present Governor. He can find but little else to be pleased with ; for never was a gentleman surrounded by so many ignorant, tur- bulant, and conceited spouters as those which at present constitute a body called the ‘‘Legislative TASMANIA. 222 Assembly/’ Pompous lawyers, or lawyers’ clerks, vainly aspiring to place and emolument^ and illi- terate settlers wbo split the ears of the ground- lings” and murder the Queen’s English, make up a knot of as self-satisfied orators and political grumblers as ever played the game of speculation for party purposes ; while, in importance, they can only be equalled by the magpies on Lilliputian Island, or the stentorian debators in the back room of some Tom and Jerry shop. Encompassed by these would-be patriots, who are not without literary scribblers and penny-a- liners, with petty quills to indorse the noble doc- trine of their leaders. Sir Henry Young’s situation is by no means an enviable one. But with the high principle, just determination, and moral courage he is known to possess, and which won for him a noble name while Governor of South Australia, we have no doubt he will overcome all obstacles ; and although he may fail to quiet the factious opposition of a few discontented indivi- duals, he will deserve well of the English govern- ment, should he rdtimately succeed in his sole desire — that of administering to the prosperity and advancing the welfare of the colony of which he is Governor. NEW ZEALAND. INTRODUCTION. A longer residence in New Zealand might have made the author of the following sketches more familiar, not only with the natural capabilities of the country, but likewise with the political dis- sensions of the people — although a longer period for praise of the one, or censure of the other, would not have increased the writer’s present high opinion either of the colony or its incomparable climate. To the interest taken in the progress of New Zealand, may be attributed the reprehension of those local evils by which that progrees is im- peded. In New Zealand, as in other colonies, may be found a swarm of political blue bottles, incapable of good themselves, although they seriously affect what has been or might be prepared and disj)ensed for the public weal. But these lilliputian states- men, in attempting great characters, present the world with an unenviable picture of their own littleness. Q 226 NEW ZEALAND. With, the exception, however, of a few of these provincial trumpeters, and certain members of the house of clamour and confusion, by which some of the provinces are misgoverned, and the commer- cial expansion of others retarded, the inhabitants are in every respect superior to those in either of the Australian settlements. And if asked to name the first colony in the southern hemisphere, as a desirable home for the intending emigrant, the writer, with the most impartial sincerity, would answer — New Zealand. Of greater interest than a long editorial preface will be found the following pointed and sensible address of the new Governor ; and if certain New Zealand politicians only profit by a gentle rebuke for past mischief, by following good advice for future action — if they will only evince a little more regard for the general welfare of the country than for private purposes or provincial squabbles — they will prove themselves more worthy of a colony which is indeed worthy of nature’s noblest sons. GENERAL ASSEMBLY.— LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. Tke fourtk session of tke General Assembly of New Zealand was opened on the 15tb of April, by his Excellency the Governor, with the customary formalities. At two o’clock, bis Excellency entered the Legislative Council, and the members of the House of Representatives having been sent for, his ExceUency read the following address : — INTRODUCTION. 227 “ IlONORATLE GENTLEMEN OF THE LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL, AND Gentlemen of the House of IIepeesentatiyes. “ Various causes prevented tlie last Assembly from legis- lating on many subjects materially affecting the welfare of the colony, and it has been reserved for you to undertake that important duty. “ Questions involving numerous conflicting interests re- main for your consideration and adjustment, and in the solution of these difficulties an arduous task awaits you. ‘‘ To enable me to call to my Councils advisers possessing the confidence of the General Assembly, is naturally a sub- ject which will engage your earliest attention. This may be considered the corner stone on which all other legislation should be built ; and I now repeat in the most explicit terms the assurance which I gave on the prorogation of the last Assembly, that I would give my confidence to the gen- tlemen who possess that of the Legislature, and that when- ever changes become necessary I would allow no personal feelings to infiuence my public conduct. ‘‘ I doubt not that the gentlemen who accept from you a responsibility conferring such an honorable distinction on themselves, will consign to forgetfulness all of the past which has no reference to the future ; that they will arm themselves with a determination to disregard all private interests ; and, devoting themselves heart and soul to those of New Zealand, they will declare what ought to be enacted for the welfare of the colony at large. “ Such conduct will ensure respect from opponents and the esteem of Englishmen, not only in this colony but throughout the empire ; not only at the present time but in the future, when party feelings and local interests have been obliterated and forgotten, and history records the strength or weakness of those who guided the infant steps of a great country. 228 NEW ZEALAND. “ If, on the contrary, the men chosen for this honorable trust should prove unequal to it, looking for the applause and preferring the interests of a party or a province to that of the colony at large, then will the power they are unable to wield remain hut a moment in their nerveless grasp, and, once released, it will oscillate backward and forward until seized on by some statesmen worthy of their adopted country, strong in the rectitude and integrity of their intentions, and regardless of all considerations which can in any way hinder the progress of the public weal. “ Such are the men whose counsel I desire, and by whose advice I hope to he guided. I rely entirely on your patriotic aid, and feel assured that, however divided you may he by political or party feelings, your best efforts will always he directed to secure the interests of the inhabitants of this country, mindful that their welfare depends on our efficient and faithful exercise of the powers vested in us by the Imperial Government. My recent visit to the different provinces has enabled me to bear testimony to their general prosperity, and to the evident signs of progress and improvement in each and all of them. “I have witnessed with great satisfaction the strong feelings of loyalty and attachment entertained throughout the colony to the throne and person of our gracious Sovereign ; and I feel deeply grateful for the cordial re- ception everywhere accorded to myself as her Majesty’s representative. “ Information has been prepared on various subjects, with a view to enable the gentlemen honored by your confidence to lay before you certain measures of importance : among them I may mention a proposal to extinguish the claim of the ISTew Zealand Company, on terms which are therein explained ; another for a uniform postal communication with the mother country ; the improvement and extension of our own overland posts ; and an alteration in the custom laws ; INTRODUCTION. 229 and I trust you will lose no time in authorising the forma- tion of a commission, with full powers to settle the many vexed questions connected with land claims, and for the quieting of disputed titles. Another subject will, I trust, engage your early atten- tion, namely, the propriety of adopting some plan of final audit for the accounts of the General Government which will be more satisfactory than the one at present in force. Gentlemen of the House of Eepeesentatives. “ The utmost economy has been practised in the expen- diture of the funds placed at my disposal by the late House of Representatives. The fullest accounts shall he submitted for your approval, and the most complete information afforded to your inquiries. “ I have to request you to make an early provision for the repayment of £14,086 11s. 5d. advanced by the Union Bank of Australia, being part of a sum of thirty thousand pounds obtained under sanction of a resolution of the late House of Representatives. Gentlemen of the Assembly. “ Your deliberations will he viewed with interest in the mother country ; for whether in Great Britain or the colo- nies, Englishmen watch the proceedings of their legislative bodies with the greatest attention. ‘‘ But the Legislature of this colony has no reason to shrink from such a scrutiny, for while adopting all that is good in the laws and usages of our native land, it has a cause for congratulation of which few other lands colonized by Europeans can boast. “ In order to form this flourishing and rapidly increasing colony, no property has been wrested from its native owners ; no hospitality has been violated ; no laws of humanity or justice have been trampled under foot. The land enriched 230 NEW ZEALAND. by the sweat of our brows has been honestly acquired and is rightfully enjoyed. Nor, when we consider that, in place of a dreadful form of idolatry, we have communicated to the natives a knowledge of the blessings of Christianity, and of the arts and appliances of civilization, can it be urged that the advantage has been exclusively on the side of those who gave money and received land alone in exchange for it. “ These are considerations which make England proud of her youngest colony — and she has reason to be so. Situated in the same relative position in the southern hemisphere ; similar in size to Grreat Britain; like her, separated from other lands by broad seas ; possessing the same natural advantages and colonized by the same hardy race — ^New Zealand cannot fail to become the Britain of Australasia. ‘‘ Free institutions, deeply graven in the hearts of Eng- lishmen, the glory of the British nation, framed, amended, and maintained by the wisdom and perseverance of succes- sive generations, have devolved on you as an inheritance. To them we owe much of that enterprise and independence which have been and are the characteristics of our nation in all parts of the world. They have been transplanted for you in their maturity, and their broad shadow spreads already over this favored land. “ The history of the growth of these institutions during a thousand years in our native country would be but a tale that is told, and the retrospect of tlie past but an idle dream, if they teach us no lessons of wisdom. May we profit by them ; and when time has consigned all who now hear me to the stillness of the grave, and children’s children have succeeded to the inheritance of their fathers, may those who will then review the acts of this Assembly feel for you that admiration and esteem which we cannot withhold from the time-honored men to whom we owe our origin and our laws. “Thomas Goee Beowne. Auckland, April 15, 1856.' NEW ZEALAND. “Though last, not least in our estimation.” — Hamlet. In describing the Australian Colonies agreeably with a matured judgment, and with the painful conviction that our own feeble but impartial sketches would be in direct opposition, not only to the majority of accounts previously published by visitors and settlers, but likewise to impres- sions created by the fluent pens and imaginative pencils of absentee poets and painters, we availed ourselves of every opportunity, consistent with fairness, to qualify the unfavorable opinions formed from personal observations during a resi- dence of twelve months in the golden region. The country, the climate, the social and intel- lectual condition of the people — Australia and all we beheld therein, save and except the precious metal, appeared so completely to negative every- thing we had either heard or read on the subject, that we paused for a time in penning a verdict 232 NEW ZEALAND. which might cover the recorder with colonial abuse. But as the united indignation of the entire population of Australia would have caused us less pain than that which would spring from the disguise of an honest opinion, we preferred the chance of a penalty from the least painful alternative, and entered our verdict accordingly. We now find ourselves placed in another di- lemma — although one of an opposite character. The hesitation caused by an unfavorable impres- sion of Australia confronts our mind like the apparition of some condemned criminal, now that New Zealand compels us to furnish of this more favored land, a sketch the very reverse of that which forms the subject of the neighbouring colo- nies. If in a social point of view we reluctantly pronounced Australia to be the most objectionable of all British dependencies, and the inhabitants, as a body, to be the most depraved, immoral and reckless of any and every European country with which we are acquainted, we may possibly be ac- cused of prejudice when we declare New Zealand to be the finest colony in the world, and the majority of its people to be equal in respectability, intelligence, temperance, and honesty, to those in a similar scale of society in any part of Europe. The fear however of reproach, or the false accu- sation of prejudice in no way influenced our judgment in the former case, and the certainty of either, or both, or of a more bitter censure NEW ZEALAND. 233 still, would be insufRcient to check the expression of an honest opinion in the present instance. As stated in our prefatory remarks, we write neither for party nor party purposes, and being entirely independent of and uninfluenced by either, our simple motto is — truth. We once either read a prediction or heard it predicted that ‘‘New Zealand would at no very remote period become the Great Britain of the southern hemisphere.^’ Although we have but little faith in modern prophets and prophecies generally — ^least of all in those theological and political compounds of the Gumming creation — we confess ourselves sufiiciently credulous to accept and believe in the above prediction as an excep- tion to the rule. Comparatively little known, as she is at present. New Zealand will, no doubt, some day become an important and populous country, if not a great nation. She possesses all the elements to warrant such an opinion and to justify such a belief. With a fine, if not the finest climate in the world, the colony has every corresponding advantage. The capabilities of the land are so great and the pro- duce therefrom so astounding that a stranger and an eye witness is almost afraid to record what, to distant landowners, will naturally appear more like fiction than fact. But as no imaginary sketches — nothing but facts collected from and authenti- cated by the best authorities will find room in the 234 NEW ZEALAND. pages of this volume, the reader may he assured of dealing with truths, however strange or extra- ordinary may appear the matter they reveal. Having visited and personally inspected each and all the provinces of New Zealand from Auck- land to Otago, we intend, after a few general remarks on the colony, to transcribe our obser- vations in the chronological order in which they were taken — supplying at the same time, through the kind assistance of the leading settlers, those valuable statistical and other records of the re- spective settlements which — without such aid — it would have been impossible to furnish after a hasty visit of barely six months. The following brief but able description of the position, &c., of New Zealand (from Chambers’ Papers for the People”) so completely accords with what we have gathered from personal obser- vation and other authentic sources, that we will not vary or mystify so concise an account for the purpose of obtaining credit for originality : — New Zealand lies intlie immense Austral Ocean between New Holland and Cape Horn. On tbe east that ocean rolls to South America, on the south to the Pole, on the west to Yan Diemen’s Land, and on the north it stretches bound- lessly away to the Arctic Circle. The group is situated between 34 and 48 degrees south latitude, and between 160 and 179 degrees east longitude. It consists of two large islands — the North and the Middle, otherwise New Ulster and New Munster, with a lesser one called Stewart’s, or New Leinster, and several scattered islets. The extreme NEW ZEALAND. 235 lengtli from North to South Cape exceeds 1100 miles; its breadth varies from 300 to 1 mile, though 100 is the aver- age. The larger islands are separated by Cook’s Strait, and Stewart’s is divided from the Middle Island by Four- neaux’s Strait. The North Island contains, it has been computed, about 31,174,400 acres of area ; the Middle 46,126,080; and Stewart’s 1,000,000. “ To afford the reader an idea, by familiar comparison, of their extent, we may say that the North Island is about a thirty-second part less than England, exclusive of Scotland and Wales ; that the Middle is about a ninth less ; and that the whole group contains 78,300,480 acres, or not more than 50,000 acres less than the whole of Great Britain and Ire- land with all the adjacent isles: consequently we have in New Zealand an extensive country, capable, in respect of its size, of accommodating 25,000,000 persons at the least. Its natural capabilities are by no means of inferior propor- tion. Tracts of barren hills, irreclaimable bogs, naked sandflats, and considerable expanses of water- surface, there certainly are ; but amply allowing for these, it appears no exaggeration to assert that at least two-thirds, or about 52,000,000 acres, are fitted for settlement, and might yield abundant sustenance to a population, whether by herds and fiocks, or vintage and grain. New Zealand is most nearly of all countries the antipodes of Great Britain. It lies 1200 miles east of the mighty island of New Holland ; and if we suppose an immense semicircle formed by the continents of Asia, Africa, and America, extending in a sweep from Cape Horn, by Behring’s Strait, to the Cape of Good Hope, encompassing the Indian and Polynesian Archipelagos, and comprising the greatest oceans on the globe. New Zealand occupies nearly the centre. New Zealand, like many other groups in the Southern Sea, is of volcanic origin. A chain of lofty hills, broken into high sharp peaks, runs along the Middle Island from 236 NEW ZEALAND. nortli to south, their summits towering in some instances to a height of 14,000 feet. The most elevated pinnacles are wrapped in a robe of everlasting snow ; and during the winter season, when the whole ridge is clothed in this mag- nificent covering, its efiect is beyond the power of art to describe. The mariner has compared it to a gigantic crest of foam rolled up by the billows of the Austral Ocean, and appearing ever ready to sink down and disperse over the waves. In the North Island the hills are lower and less distinctly connected ; but a few of their isolated peaks invade the regions of perpetual snow. One of them. Mount Egmont, is an extinct volcano, reckoned to be 8840 feet high : it is situated at the South-West Cape, near Cook’s Strait. The first person who ascended it was the intelligent traveller Dr. Diefienbach in 1839. Tongarroo, a volcano still active, and Euaperhue, whose fires have long been ex- tinguished, stand in the centre of the island — one 6200, the other loftier, both crowned with perpetual snow, and forming, with two or three others, a magnificent group of mountains, reared in the middle of a more level but pic- turesque country. Mount Edgecombe is an extinct volcano near the Bay of Plenty. No one has ever been known to ascend its summit, which is supposed to be about 7000 feet high. Hence the surface of the island north-east to Mount Egmont wears the traces of violent volcanic action, chiefly proceeding from the crater of Tongarroo. Boiling fountains break from the ground in many places, geysers spout up their foam, fumeroles emit columns of sulphury steam, solfataras shoot forth clouds of luminous vapour, and hot springs in constant ebullition spread over the district in an extended line. In White Island, lying in the Bay of Plenty, exists a low crater, with the rim composed of alloyed sulphur. A chain of lakes, closely connected with the volcanic agencies we have enumerated, gives additional proof of the formation of the region. Lake Tago, in the south-west, is the most NEW ZEALAND. 237 extensive. Of an irregular triangular shape, its greatest length is about thirty-six miles, its width twenty-five. Many little creeks indent its borders, and several streams feed it from the south; while the Waikato River, flowing away westward, hears to the sea the superabundant waters. Around spreads a broad level tract or table-land, beyond which the surface is depressed, and gradually formed into hills and valleys, where the drainage of the peaks, ranges, and plateaus, accumulated in the beds of streams, is carried to the ocean. Detached ridges, more or less elevated, diver- sify the aspect of I^ew Zealand, lying almost invariably in one direction — from north to south — and dividing the low alluvial plains from the high table lands. ‘‘As in most other countries presenting similar geo- graphical features, New Zealand presents numerous indica- tions of mineral wealth. Copper, silver, and iron, with coal, sulphur, and manganese, have been discovered, each in at least one spot, and worked with considerable success. They already form articles of exportation, and will probably fur- nish materials for manufacturing on a large scale. Lead- ore, tin-ore, and what is supposed to be nickel, have been detected, but not hitherto procured in any extraordinary abundance. Many other riches remain, doubtless, for fur- ther research to discover ; but it will be well if what has been already brought to light is developed even to a mode- rate extent. Compared with the geological formation of the Andes, the ranges of New Zealand present very similar characteristics, and it is believed they may contain even the more costly metal which is found in the giant chain of South America. “In these mountains are traced the sources of streams and rivers which flow into the sea at various points along the extensive coast-line. Some rise from many springs, play down the slopes in rivulets, accumulating and meeting until their associated waters form a river. Others gush 238 NEW ZEALAND. from copious fountains, and break into many brooks, whicli ramify until they sboot like threads of silver over the sui’- face of the plains. Rising, as all the streams do, at a considerable elevation above the level of the sea, into which they discharge themselves after a very abrupt course, or long windings through a rugged country, they are not gene- rally navigable for any great distance. Some, however, tortuous and broken as they are by falls and rapids, how* one, and even two hundred miles. The high peaks of the hills, intercepting masses of cloud formed by the congre- gated vapours of the surrounding ocean, bring them down in floods, which supply the rivers with a perennial flow, aflbrding an exhaustless water-power in every hollow and valley of New Zealand. Advantageous as they would thus be were the region densely peopled in the more elevated tracts, they are in the lower provinces blessings to the popu- lation, spreading out wide alluvial flats, fertile beyond exaggeration, large spaces of which are now ready for the plough and the drill ; while in others the axe of the wood- man and the task of drainage still remain to render the land susceptible of cultivation. “ Few regions in the world — in comparison with the extent of coast-line, about three thousand miles — equal New Zea- land in the excellence and abundance of their harbors. Here a commodious, safe, and central rendezvous is ofiered to the vast shipping trade of the Southern Seas, including myriads of islands, many of them the most fruitful in the world. It might form the entrepot of commerce between the Indian and Polynesian Archipelagoes ; and will probably, when its afiairs have been liberally settled, literally become, as many orators, writers, and economists have prophesied, another Great Britain in the Austral Ocean. ‘^To the British emigrant, however, one consideration is paramount above all views of profit. It is nothing to him that a region abounds in harbors, ports, and bays ; that it NEW ZEALAND. 239 has a fertile soil, is rich in minerals, abounds with timber, and ])romises wealth to the industrious settler, unless its climate be genial to the European constitution. A mine of gold or an estate near Cape Coast Castle would not induce him to make his habitation there ; the gold- washings of Borneo will not allure him to live amid its marshes ; but in New Zealand soil and climate equally invite his enterprise. We have with respect to this subject heard many erroneous statements ; but a careful examination of accounts by the most competent authorities imposes on us but one belief. We maintain without reserve that the climate of New Zealand is better adapted to the English constitution than that of any other British colony. The immense preponder- ance of water over land in those latitudes causes a less degree of average heat than in the northern regions, where the land greatly preponderates over the water. In tempe- rature, therefore. New Zealand resembles that of the country between the south of Portugal and the central departments of France, or rather that which, from its insular character, Great Britain would enjoy if its centre lay twelve hundred miles to the west of Cape Finisterre.” Previous to a distinct review of each locality, we will make a few general remarks — such as would naturally occur to the mind of a stranger or any one who has noted or may note the political and social atmosphere of New Zealand in visiting the respective provinces. In the first place (with- out inquiring into or suggesting a remedy for the cause of the disease or attributing blame to any particular class of persons) our honesty compels us to declare that politics, politicians, and petty jealousies, constitute the great if not the only 240 NEW ZEALAND. barrier to the rapid progress of tbe colony, and to tbe social and mental elevation and prosperity of tbe inhabitants. Altbougb prosperity and ma- terial wealth are within the grasp of, and easily obtained in a few years by the humblest individual in New Zealand, it is to be regretted that such desirable acquirements are not more frequently accompanied with peace of mind to the owners and good will towards others. Men aspire to, or are elected to fill seats in the legislative assemblies who are in no respect qualified for the senatorial and (in the colony) anything but peaceful honor. But while these persons are not qualified for their position they obstruct others that are. It appears to us that many of these gentlemen would make a larger and more substantial provision for their families and a smaller number of enemies for themselves if they would attend to their private affairs instead of obstructing public ones. Without venturing a positive opinion on the subject, it appears to us not unreasonable to submit the ques- tion, whether the cause of this may not be traced to the form or forms of government provided by the mother country rather than to the colonists themselves ; for where opportunities occur for petty statesmen to fill great parts in a little play, the farce will not fail for want of characters to represent it. With six local governments and a general assembly, in place of one efiicient govern- ment for the entire colony, it is perhaps not to be NEW ZEALAND. 241 wondered at that the general good is sometimes retarded or sacrificed to the local or provincial elements of jealousy, malice, or ambition. The contracted or selfish views of certain in- fluential tradesmen or merchants will likewise strike a close observer, as something to be re- gretted, if not deserving of censure, as the want of favor or unity on the part of a few of the leading settlers in a province, has to our own knowledge often been the means of losing what would have advanced the general interests of the country. Suppose for instance an opportunity offers to benefit the colony by increased local or distant steam communication, on a plan proposed by Messrs. Patriot and Co. ; Selfish, Brothers and Co. at once oppose the plan — of course on public grounds — ^because increased facilities for the pas- sage of persons and goods from one place to another might at the same time have a prejudicial effect on periodical consignments received by Selfish, Brothers and Co. from a distant part of the world. With the New Zealand provinces, as with jea- lous and ill-natured individuals, the same unfor- tunate rule is found to exist ; and it would be easier to mix oil with water than to induce the spirits in one province to unite with those in another, although the want of unity might be injurious to all. These evils however are but trifles in a country where the advantages possess- ed by a settler are greater by tenfold than the R 242 NEW ZEALAND. disadvantages ; for while such impediments may obstruct for a time the rapid progress of small communities, they will gradually disappear as the districts become more thickly populated, and when the public voice for the public good grows too powerful to be suppressed by the influence of a few selfish and bigoted individuals. Nothing but some unforeseen and dire calamity, emanating from a higher power than man, can check the gradual progress of the finest colony in the world, or prevent the immense resources of New Zealand from being more generally known, so soon as, through increased enterprise and addi- tional manual and other appliances, her resources are more fully developed. The internal and dormant riches of a country, like real sparks of genius in the retiring mind of man, may be obscured for a time by the smoke and steam of more imposing but less sterling objects, but flashes from concealed merit occa- sionally attract attention, till the strength of the flame dispels the surrounding vapour and finally obtains for its possessor the public recognition of true worth. New Zealand is essentially a poor man’s country, although there are but few poor in it. It is a country to which those of the working classes in England who have the means or intend to emi- grate should direct their steps ; for it is a colony in which nine out of every ten who land therein NEW ZEALAND. 243 rise ill tlic course of a few years from poverty to affluence, or from a poor to a good position. With industry and sobriety, the artisan, or laborer, soon becomes his own master, landowner, or farmer; and the majority of the most wealthy men in the colony are those who landed a few years since without any capital beyond that which is most valuable in New Zealand — individual labor. At the present time the colonial government are trying, in vain, to obtain common laborers to work on the roads at eight shillings a day. A good mechanic can obtain treble that amount per diem. Indeed the laboring classes — even while laborers — may be termed the independent gentry of the colony. Their wives have never been waited on by servants in the mother country, and have not to experience that loss which is severely felt by those accustomed to good society, and who, owing to the difficulty of obtaining domestic servants, have frequently to undertake any and every menial office. We have known kind and considerate husbands — solicitors, merchants, and some of the leading men in a province — rise early in the morning, and as a singular prelude to their professional or commer- cial duties, open the business of the day by lighting the fire, washing the dishes, or scrubbing the floor for their amiable ladies. Servants are so scarce and so independent that the difficulty of obtaining them is exceeded by that of keeping them when obtained. We have more than once dined with 244 NEW ZEALAND. a family of respectability who have themselves cooked and served the dinner, presided at the dinner table, and afterwards favored us with a little instrumental or vocal music, or joined their friends in a polka or quadrille. To a few heavily taxed and good-natured husbands in the United Kingdom we take the liberty of suggesting that twelve months residence in New Zealand might prove of infinite service to those gentle partners whose fair features dare not enter their own kitchens, from the fear of being smoked or over- heated. Yet strange to say, we have never in New Zealand met a well educated lady who was less the lady on account of having for a time to submit to social discomforts and privations, the very mention of which would make some of our English drawing-room dolls turn pale in disgust, or red with shame. A sensible lady not only sub- mits with good grace to the requirements of an altered position, or the necessities of the moment, but she likewise retains her title and her dignity, even though circumstances compel her to become her own waiting-maid or cook. With a working man in England a large family is not unfrequently regarded as a social calamity. In New Zealand a large family proves a source of ultimate wealth, as any lad of twelve or fourteen years of age can, in return for his services, readily obtain a comfortable home with a salary of £20 or £30 a year. On this subject there is one im- NEW ZEALAND. 245 portant fact, the knowledge of which may be found useful to or taken advantage of by a few married but childless individuals in the mother country. While many or most parts of the colony imder consideration are highly favorable to agricultual or pastoral purposes, the invigorating effects of its delightful climate would appear to be equally favorable to a local increase in the population. We have met with settlers who for many years in England had despaired of ever becoming parents ; but since their arrival in the colony they have been blessed with the parental title — a title with- out which man^s estate, however bountifully sup- plied with the periodical riches of the land, would be still poor without those tender saplings which can alone perpetuate the seed of domestic bliss. The newspaper press in New Zealand is certainly not calculated to lessen our unfavorable opinion of colonial periodicals and colonial literature in general. With two worthy, independent, and honorable exceptions, to which we will not more particularly allude, the New Zealand newspapers represent all those petty jealousies and political animosities with which so many of the inhabitants are infected, and which the residents of one pro- vince evince towards those in another. European intelligence and occasional extracts from the Eng- lish papers comprise the leading matter of interest — or rather only that which is at all likely to interest any one unconnected with local squabbles. 246 NEW ZEALAND. Whatever is said or done by one party, or the leaders of a party, is sure to be disapproved or condemned by another. It occurs to us that these journals, which should rather endeavour to subdue than irritate the public mind on trifles, would prove of greater service to the colony and the settlers, if in their repeated attacks on persons and places they were to display less violence and more moderation — which would be neic8 indeed. Returning however to the advantages of New Zealand, as the most desirable home for those who are about to emigrate from the United Kingdom, we deem it desirable to be clearly understood on this point. While we are anxious to afford useful information to all intending emigrants, the entire worth of New Zealand would not (intentionally) induce us, in stating our own opinion, to allow anything to escape in the shape of praise which might either create a false impression in the minds of others, or justify some future colonists in saying (what thousands in Australia, who have been de- luded by false representations, have had occasion to say) that book deceived us.’^ If any poor but well educated families — and in England there are unfortunately hundreds of such families — who prefer the fascinations of polite so- ciety to the more substantial rewards of industry and social retirement — families, the male branches of which regard the interior of a billiard-room or a casino as indispensable margins on the page of NEW ZEALAND. 247 life, while the female members of such families would rob their craving stomachs of a good dinner for the latest fashion in the shape of a bonnet or a boot — if such, or any such persons would rather prolong their lives than die with melancholy we earnestly advise them to remain where they are. For a colonial life, threadbare notions of refined gentility will be found useless appendages in an emigrant’s outfit ; and those who are still anxious for the display of such ornaments will do well to keep them and themselves away from a land where these things and a variety of conventional forms have no existence, or are of no avail. But if such persons can submit, without murmur and without regret, to hard work, and to the loss of artificial pleasures, they may then derive profit by a change which, without ready submission to the sacrifices enumerated, would otherwise lead to disappointment. Well educated persons whose means enable them to live in moderate ease should likewise remain at home — presuming that home to be England. To people accustomed to good society and the inde- pendence arising from an experienced and atten- tive suite of servants, the discomforts of a colonial life will be found great and many. But, on the other hand, if those needy ladies and gentlemen whose brains are heavily taxed to keep up a respectable appearance on a hundred or a hundred and fifty pounds a year, derived from funded or 248 NEW ZEALAND. other property, are disposed to submit to a few inconveniences (many of them temporary ones) for a delightful climate and an increased revenue, by taking their three or four thousand pounds to, and residing in New Zealand, they may attain the summit of their desire ; and at the expiration of a few years they may, if they choose, return to their native land with their capital doubled, or probably trebled. In most, if not in all the provinces of New Zealand ample landed security can be obtained for money on loan at ten, twelve, and in some instances, fifteen, or even twenty per cent, per annum. The ultimate ruin of the borrowers may probably be predicted by those residing in a country where money is more abundant, and where people are unacquainted with the circumstances which justify so large a rate of interest. A few words will satisfy the reader that such a prediction would prove quite fallacious, and that the security named for loans at the rates quoted will be ample, while the interest is justifiable. For instance, the owner of a piece of land of the value of four or five hundred pounds may wish to purchase a few sheep. He has no ready money, but obtains on the secu- rity of his land three hundred pounds at fifteen per cent. The increase of his live stock will yield, on the smallest computation, from forty to fifty per cent., which would leave a surplus profit over and above the interest paid of from twenty-five to NEW ZEALAND. 249 tliirty-five per cent. This will be yearly aug- mented by the compound increase in his stock, which in a few years will leave the owner thou- sands for hundreds, or in other words, a pound sterling for every two shillings previously in- vested. We are acquainted not with one only, but with many persons who at the present time are owners of ten, fifteen, or twenty thousand sheep, and who but five or six years since dated the commencement of their rise with an invest- ment of fifty, one hundred, or a hundred and fifty pounds. For making capital in New Zealand, by lending and borrowing money, various other modes might be instanced, but the cases above alluded to will be sufficient to prove that in one part of the world at least — ^though not in the United Kingdom — people may pay or receive a handsome income for a small investment, or give or take a high rate of interest without danger of ruin either to them- selves or others. Respectable society on a limited scale may, but good society — that which in England is termed good society — cannot be found in New Zealand. In speaking of society we must be understood to refer to the want of a sufficient number of persons in any particular district or community to consti- tute the society alluded to. To this there are of course many individual and family exceptions. But we speak of the rule not the exception ; and 250 NEW ZEALAND. althougli on certain occasions large numbers of the inhabitants are invited to Government House, the majority of such persons are regarded rather as favored visitors than friendly guests. Some of the provinces can boast of better society than can be found in others ; but this and other social matters we leave for notice under the head of the respective localities. This great preponderance both in the capital and in some of the provinces of uneducated or illiterate people will fully account for the absence of a refined taste with regard to anything of an intellectual character, either in the shape of amusement or instruction. As in Australia, a lecture on poetry or the fine arts would be alike unappreciated and unattended, or attended only by a select few — while a mountebank on the back of a horse would prove a source of attraction and delight for the multitude. Unless a public enter- tainment be of an exciting character, such as a farewell dinner to Tom Stiles or Harry Stokes — although neither of the honored guests would be allowed to utter half a dozen sentences without interruption — it would cease to be attractive. Pro- fessor Thimblerig can at all times insure a large audience, while Doctor Mental’s classical disserta- tion commands an empty house. It is however the poorer classes — or rather the working classes, for there are no poor in New Zealand — by which amusements are chiefly patronised. The educated NEW ZEALAND. 251 portion of tlie community derive their pleasure in their own family circles. In addition to this, their minds and minutes are so entirely devoted to money-making, that their time appears to be entirely absorbed in this and this object only. There is one rather remarkable fact respecting the movements of those who have resided a few years in New Zealand, and who during their resi- dence therein have — like the majority of colonists — endeavoured to amass a large amount of money in a short space of time, for the purpose of re- turning to live in peace and plenty, if not in luxury, in their own native land. The fact al- luded to, or rather the revelation therefrom, is simply this — those to whom it relates talk of going home for a considerable time before they actually go ; and having gone, nine out of every ten, after a short absence, return again to the land of their adoption. Making allowance for the loss of friends and acquaintances, and many other unattractive features which might cloud the imagination on the emigrant’s return, the simple fact of his having the means to procure every pleasure where every pleasure is procurable, and that he finally leaves all for a climate, friends and habits more in accordance with his feelings and his taste, furnishes a truth, the evidence from which, in favor of New Zealand, is stronger than any other we can adduce. The Maori or native race of New Zealand are in every respect superior to any colored race with 262 NEW ZEALAND. wliich. we are acquainted. Througli the interest and attention of the present indefatigable Bishop, many schools have been established ; and not only can a large number of natives at present read and write, but some of them have been ordained as ministers of the gospel. Though they want the industry and perseverance of the European, even the uncivilised portion of them are not deficient in honesty ; and most of their evil propensities have been copied from their civilised but bad companions from the mother country. If honestly dealt by, the dealer may be sure of an equivalent in the transaction ; but if treacherously dealt with, they will, if possible, retaliate. We have travelled amongst them (unarmed) into the interior, and would not hesitate to journey for any distance in any part of the colony, satisfied not only of hos- pitable treatment at the hands of the natives, but also of perfect security both with regard to life and property. But like other native races in countries where Europeans have permanently settled, the New Zealanders are annually on the decrease, and will no doubt in the course of time — perhaps forty or fifty years, become nearly, if not entirely, extinct. We will at present briefly observe — it being our intention to notice the subject more fully at a subsequent stage of our work — that an erroneous opinion prevails in England with regard to the earthquakes which periodically take place in one NEW ZEALAND. 253 part of the colony. It is generally supposed that the whole of New Zealand is subject to those con- vidsions of the earth, which in reality seriously affect one province only. The extreme provinces in whicli extinct volcanoes prove the complete ex- haustion of internal commotion, may note, as the rumbling of distant thunder, or by a slight vibra- tion from the effect of the shock, the periods at which the most violent convulsions take place, although, as we previously stated, their effects are chiefly confined to the locality in which they occur. Although New Zealand cannot at present boast of rich gold fields fully developed, like those of Aus- tralia, a treasure more valuable and inexhaustible may be found in the periodical riches of her soil. The excessive draughts of Australia, by which thou- sands of sheep perish and whole crops decay, are totally unknow nhere. Whether the coming season may or may not reward the Australian settler for his labor andhis outlay is entirely a matter of spe- culation ; while here the crops are as regular and as luxuriant as the seasons themselves. Rivulets and running streams of the purest water, unknown in Australia, are here everywhere to be found. The comparative condition of the cattle in the re- spective colonies is alone a sufficient proof of this. Poor and emaciated, like the aboriginal tribes in the golden region, the oxen of that country pre- sent a miserable spectacle. But here, through the 254 NEW ZEALAND. invigorating effects of a pure atmosphere, rich pasture, and an abundant supply of water, the cattle, like the Maori, or human native race, are everywhere healthy, robust, and in excellent con- dition. Of vegetable and other productions we shall speak in due course ; and the English farmer will no doubt be somewhat surprised to hear of unmanured land producing fifty, sixty, and seventy bushels of wheat to the acre, not for one year only but for several years in succession. But these and all subjects relating to figures will be confirmed by the signatures of the respective and most compe- tent authorities in each province. Having thus given in a few prefatory and cur- sory remarks a rough and general outline of what will be embodied in detail in the progressive stages of the work, we will proceed with a description of the capital and the respective provinces. But in penning the attractive and other features of New Zealand, it is not our intention to extend the description beyond the actual requirements of the subject, nor to tax the patience of the reader with a rigmarole of personal adventures, which are generally uninteresting and of little value to the public. We will merely furnish a simple record of facts, gathered from our own observation and corroborated by those whose experience is called on to attest their accuracy. And although we earnestly advise those industrious persons who are about to leave England for another home, and NEW ZEALAND. 255 who value health, sure advancement, and ultimate independence, to choose the colony above all others in which, with temperance and industry, a mode- rate hope of future success in life would be certain of realization, we will not recommend any parti- cular province to the prejudice of another, but, after a distinct though brief description of each, we will leave those who may adopt our advice, in the selection of this fine colony for their future abode, to select the province they may deem the best adapted to their calling or their wants. For the information of those who cannot afford the entire amount required for their passage to New Zealand, we may observe that resident Lon- don agents, as the representatives of some parts of the colony, are empowered to assist respectable and suitable applicants. New Zealand is divided into six provinces, viz., Auckland, Taranaki (or New Plymouth), Wel- lington, Nelson, Canterbury, and Otago. Each province is governed by a superintendent (elected by the local residents) and a provincial council. And each province contributes its proportionate share of members to the House of Representatives which legislates for the entire colony, the members of which meet annually for the purpose of general legislation. 256 NEW ZEALAND. With regard to the probable extent of the mineral riches of New Zealand, or the value of the recently discovered gold fields, it would, at present, be impossible for any one to venture more than a speculative opinion. But from all we saw and heard during our stay in the colony, as well as from private advices received since our return, we are inclined to think that not only gold, but likewise copper and other minerals will shortly be found and exported in considerable quantities — that is, so soon as a supply of labor will enable explorers and settlers to turn recent discoveries to the best advantage. It will however be unneces- sary to do more than direct attention to a few brief but more general remarks on the subject, which v^ill be found in our review of the province of Nelson. New Zealand is open alike to foreigners of every nation without reference to country or creed. We merely revert to this subject for the purpose of supplying what we omitted to state elsewhere — that in the colony of Victoria a recent legislative enactment imposes a tax of £8 or <£10 per head — the latter we believe — on all immigrants arriving from at least one country with which England has extensive commercial transactions. The reason for the Executive omitting from the ^‘Victorian Tariff this duty on human flesh is obvious. AIJCELAND. In the town of Auckland is at present the seat of government. We say at present, because the great bone of contention in the ensuing session will be an attempt to remove the same — Welling- ton and Nelson being the chief contentionists. We predict not only the failure of both, but like- wise the usual waste of public time by the antago- nists, and the natural result of the dispute — that the speakers, like the seat of government, will be just in the same position at the end as they were at the beginning of the debate. In a commercial point of view, Auckland is at present the most important town in New Zealand ; but whether or not she will long maintain that supremacy is a question rather for time than for us to determine. She is now indebted to traffic with the natives for the greater portion of her trade ; and as the natives are gradually on the decrease, and as land in the province of Auckland, either in extent or fertility, will not bear com- s 258 NEW ZEALAND. parison with that in the southern provinces, it appears to be a matter of considerable doubt — when some of the other districts have the benefit of an increased population, and additional steam communication, &c. — whether Auckland will still retain the position she now holds. The military, government officers, and a few families excepted, the quality of society in Auck- land, if such a term be applicable, is inferior to that in any other province in New Zealand. The majority of merchants and tradesmen here are exceedingly coarse both in manner and education, many of them being the dregs or sweepings of Sydney. This fact may justify the use of the doubtful term, as in the southern hemisphere there is no doubt whatever respecting the refuse of Sydney society. Monthly steam communication with Australia — which is in course of formation, but not yet esta- blished by some of the other provinces — gives Auckland a great advantage over her neighbors, as it insures a periodical traffic between that port and New South Wales, although, as we before observed, some of the live stock from the last- named colony — cattle excepted — add to the quan- tity rather than to the quality of the inhabitants. Making allowance for a natural leaning in favor of the province of Auckland, the reader will gather a tolerably correct idea of the town, district, climate, &c., of the northern settlement in the AUCKLAND. 259 following graphic sketch, from the pen (as we are informed) of a well-lmown and talented officer attached to the government of New Zealand. The want of a Government House, alluded to by the writer, will no longer be felt, as a very handsome building is now nearly if not quite complete, and will greatly surpass that which was destroyed by fire : — The Town of Auckland is built on the Northern side of the Isthmus which divides the Waitemata from the Manu- kau, and is hounded on the North by the shores of the former harbor. The site of the Town, as laid down on the Official Plan, has a frontage on the water of about a mile and a half, and extends inland to the distance of about a mile. At present, the greater number of the houses have been built near the water, in the bays and on the headlands with which it is indented. These bays are backed by small valleys which run inland to the distance of about half a mile, terminating in narrow gullies, and are separated from each other by spurs which run in the harbor and terminate in low headlands. The lower parts of the Town being thus separated, the roads which connect them with each other are somewhat steep and inconvenient. ^‘Seen from the Harbor, the Town makes a considerable appearance, and suggests the idea of expansiveness. St. Paul’s Church, with its neat spire, occupying a prominent position on the centre headland is an ornamental feature. The Barracks, the Scotch Church, the Colonial Hospital, the Wesleyan Institution, the Boman Catholic Church, and the Windmill on the hill, with Mount Eden in the back ground are the most prominent objects. Approaching the shore, Official Bay, commanded by St. Paul’s Church, and with its detached cottage-like houses built on a sheltered slope, each 260 NEW ZEALAND. snugly nestled in the luxuriant shrubbery of its surrounding garden, looks pretty and picturesque. Commercial Bay, seen from the water, presents the appearance of a large Town, haying a mass of houses closely packed together. Mechanics’ Bay is as yet hut little built upon ; a large rope- walk, a ship-builder’s yard, a native hostelry, and a few small shops are the only buildings. This Bay is the prin- cipal place of encampment for the natives visiting Auckland in their canoes ; here they land their native produce, in fine weather bivouacing in the open air, or under their sail-made tents ; and, in bad weather, seeking shelter in the neigh- bouring hostelry. Freeman’s Bay, to the westward of Com- mercial Bay, is occupied chiefiy by saw-pits, brick-kilns, and boat-builders’ yards. The principal streets are Princes Street, Shortland Cres- cent, Queen Street, and Wakefield Street. The first is a broad, straight, spacious, well-made street, on a gentle slope ; St. Paul’s Church, the Treasury and the Bank, and the Masonic Hotel are its principal buildings. Shortland Crescent, which connects Princes Street with Queen Street, is built on rather a steep ascent. It is less broad than Princes Street, but much longer. On one side it is almost wholly built upon ; shops and stores are here to be found of every description, and of various forms and style. No attempt at uniformity has been made ; every one has built according to his means, fancy, or the size and shape of his ground. The only approach to uniformity is in the mate- rial — ^with a few exceptions, all are of wood. The roadway of the street is an even Mc’Adamized surface ; but no at- tempt has yet been made to form footpaths on a general level. Some of the shops would not disgrace a small pro- vincial town in England ; but taken altogether as a street, Shortland Crescent is irregular and unfinished. Queen Street is the least built upon, but in other respects it is the best and most considerable street in Auckland. It is about AUCKLAND. 2G1 half a mile long, nearly level, and almost straight, and terminates at its northern extremity in a pier or quay, ■which runs into the Harbor, and alongside of which small craft can land, on this stage, their cargoes. At its southern extremity it is overlooked by the Wesleyan Seminary, or Boarding-school for the education of the children of the missionaries in these seas — a spacious brick-built and sub- stantial structure. The Graol is badly situated, and is by no means a conspicuous building ; but by a diligent search it may be found on the west side of Queen Street, partly screened from view by the Court-house and Police-office, which abut immediately upon the street. Several shops of superior description, two and three stories high, have re- cently been erected, and Queen Street, as well as being the longest, is certainly just now one of the most improving streets in Auckland. Wakefield Street ascends from its southern extremity until it joins the Cemetery Eoad ; and is the newest and most increasing street in the town. Many of the houses are built of brick, and it already bears a considerable resemblance to a new street in the outskirts of a modern English town. The want of a Government House is a serious drawback. Even beyond the circle of the visiting world, the destruction of the Old House has been, in every respect a public loss. Few men possess in their own persons qualities of an order so commanding as to fit them to represent Majesty without the aid of its outward trappings. The want of a suitable residence, operates injuriously on society in many respects : it is a loss to the public, a detriment to the place, and heavy blow and great discouragement “ to that dignity which ought to hedge about” the Queen’s Yicegerent. The grounds on which the Old House stood, is planted with English oaks and other trees, which already afibrd both shade and shelter ; the lawn and walks are neatly kept ; the situation is pretty and convenient, commanding a view of 262 NEW ZEALAND. the Flag- staff, and of the entrance into the Harbor; it is close to the Town, too, without being of the town ; and it excites in all who take an interest in the place a feeling of regret that it has not yet been restored to its legitimate purpose. ‘‘ The most considerable public buildings are the Brito- mart and Albert Barracks, having together accommodation for nearly 1000 men. The former are built on the extremity of the headland dividing Official from Commercial Bay, and form a conspicuous, but by no means an ornamental feature. The buildings are solid and substantial, mostly of scoria — a dark, grey, sombre colored stone — square, heavy- looking and unsightly. The Albert Barracks, the larger of the two, are built upon the same ridge, but about a quarter of a mile inland. The Stores, Hospital, Magazine, and Commissariat Offices are built of scoria. The rest of the buildings are of wood, plain in style, and of a sombre color. The various buildings, together with the parade-ground, occupy several acres, the whole of which is surrounded by a strong scoria wall, about ten or twelve feet high, loop-holed, and with flanking angles. The position of the Albert Barracks is healthy and cheerful, overlooking Ijie Town and Harbor, and commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country ; but being commanded by a rising ground within a few hundred yards, and being within view from ships in the Harbor, and within range of their shot and shell, the site, in a military point of viev/, is not happily chosen. Although much more extensive than those at Wellington, the Auckland Barracks have by no means the same neat, cheerful, and compact appearance. It is not probable how- ever that so large a portion of almost level ground will for many years be allowed to be taken from the site of a town having too generally a broken and uneven surface. “ Seen from the neighbourhood of St. Paul’s Church, the Harbor presents the appearance of a land-locked, lake-lOce, AUCKLAND. 263 sheet of water : the FlafF- staff Hill, and North Head of mound-like form, bound it on the left. Over the low neck of land which connects them appears the rugged volcanic island of Rangitoto, with its triple peaks ; in front are the islands of Motukoria and Waiheki, forming the middle distance, with the range of high land which divides the Gulf of the Thames from the open sea, and which termi- nates in Cape Colville, forming the back ground. On the right, the outline is broken by numerous little bays, and the low headlands which divide them ; the Sentinel Rock forming at all times a conspicuous object. On the shore of the Harbor on which the Town is built, the water is shoal, and its several bays, at low water, are left uncovered. Except at high-water the landing generally along the shore is inconvenient. For several years, Auck- land, in this respect, enjoyed a bad pre-eminence ; but the reproach has at length been removed by the erection of a neat wooden jetty, five hundred feet in length, which afibrds a convenient boat landing-place at nearly all times of the tide. It also forms an ornamental feature in Official Bay, and affords to the public an agreeable promenade. At a short distance from the foot of the pier is a brick-built tank, supplied by a spring of excellent water. Pipes are laid on to the tank, and run along to the extremity of the pier, where water- casks can be filled and taken ofi* to the ship- ping at all times of the tide. A quay or landing-place is also in course of construction in Commercial Bay, alongside of which vessels in the coasting trade will be able to land and to take in their cargoes. On the North Shore — across the harbor, opposite the town, distant somewhat less than a mile — the water deepens rapidly, the landing is good, and the shore is a dry, clear, shelly beach. ‘‘ There are no port charges, harbor dues, or taxes levied on shipping; and the harbor is open to all the world to enter and depart free of any charge. There is a pilot, but 264 NEW ZEALAND. it is optional with masters of vessels to employ him. If not employed, no pilotage is chargeable. The port is supplied with almost everything necessary for refitting and refreshing vessels- — and both ships’ stores and provisions can be ob- tained at a moderate price. The Suburban District comprises the rising ground by which the town is sheltered. Many of the choicest spots are already occupied by neat-looking private houses. Over- looking the town and the harbor — and commanding a view of the Grulf, with the “Great Barrier” and “Little Barrier” Islands in the far distance, and the nearer islands which give shelter to the Waitemata — these rising grounds possess numerous pretty sites. But generally speaking the scenery in this district is neither bold nor picturesque ; and is alto- gether unlike the general character of ^^ew Zealand scenery • — comparatively bare of trees, and distinguished only by the number of its volcanic hills. The surrounding country is open, undulating — intersected in all directions by the numerous creeks of the Waitemata and the Manukau, and easily available for agricultural purposes ; but it presents few of the characteristics of a New Zealand landscape, and it has nothing to mark it as a foreign country. Nor should the scenery of New Zealand be hastily judged : for no com- parison can properly be made of the scenery of countries occupying the opposite extremes of cultivation, except as to natural features. It would be unreasonable, for instance, to compare the jungle forests, the fern clad hills, and the swampy plains of a new and unsettled country, with the rich pastures, the green meadows, the forest glades, and the highly cultivated features of an English landscape. But in beauty of natural scenery I think New Zealand will bear comparison with England in most of its principal features — • mountain, river, coast and harbor. There is nothing in England, for instance, to equal the snow- clad, silvery- peaked Mount Egmont — or the Alpine ranges of the South- AUCKLAND. 265 ern Island. The lower part of the Waikato Kiver — the upper reaches of the Thames — the scenery about the narrow pass of the Manawatu — and the wild grandeur of the Wan- ganui, fully equal in their natural beauty, any of the river scenery of England. The scenery of the West Coast, between Waikato and Mokou, and that of the Southern Island, in the neighbourhood of Milford Haven, will bear comparison with the finest views of the British Coast ; while Monganui, the Bay of Islands, Port Nicholson, Q,ueen Charlotte’s Sound, and Akaroa, are unequalled in their natural features by the harbors of Great Britain. But in lake scenery, New Zealand must yield the palm. True, indeed, there are some pretty gem-like lakes in the district of Boturua, but there is nothing in New Zealand to equal the lake scenery of Westmoreland and Cumberland, com- bining so exquisitely as it does, the beauties of nature and art. It may be too much to say that the same degree of beauty will never be found in any part of this country : but at present, in its natural uncultivated state. New Zealand contains no such views as Grassmere, seen from Butter Crags, or Loughrigg Fell — Rydal^ from Eydal Park — and the thousand beauties of JDerwentwater^ B ar row dale ^ and Lang dale, “ Strangers, however, are frequently very unreasonably disappointed with the natural beauties of New Zealand. They are landed at some port which possesses, perhaps, no great natural beauty — they never travel twenty miles from home, and they conclude that the accounts which have been written of the country — so far, at least, as beauty of scenery is concerned — have been written in a spirit of gross ex- aggeration. A foreigner having heard much of English scenery, put down in Lincolnshire or Sufiblk, and, not travelling beyond the borders of the county, would be equally disappointed, and with as much reason. The country in the neighbourhood of the town — com- 266 NEW ZEALAND. prising the isthmus which divides the two harbors, is much of it cultivated. Not a stump of a tree is left in the ground. Solid stone walls and quick- set hedges are generally taking the place of temporary wooden fences of posts and rails. The greater part of the land is laid down in permanent pasture. At Epsom, distant about two and a half-miles from the town, and in the Tamaki district, distant six mil es, there are grass and clover paddocks, as large, as rich, as well laid down, and as substantially fenced as any grass land in England. Owing to the neat and uncolonial style of cultivation, and to the absence of trees having a foreign appearance, the country around Auckland presents the appearance of a home-like English landscape. One half of the road across the isthmus, from Auckland to Onehunga, has been MacAdamised, and the remaining haK is good during the greater part of the year. With scarcely any exception, the whole of the land on each side of the road is already fenced and cultivated; and the traveller, as he passes along, is never out of sight of a house. ‘^The town and suburbs of Auckland extend across the isthmus for the greater part of a mile ; and the Village of Onehunga, on the other side, spreads itself inland' for nearly an equal distance : almost adjoining the suburbs of Auck- land, too, is the Village of Newmarket, and the remainder of the road is studded here and there by wayside houses. At no very distant period there can be little doubt but that the opposite coasts of New Zealand will thus be connected by one continued line of street. Upwards of forty thousand acres of land within the Borough of Auckland are the property of private indi- viduals, held under grants from the Crown. About ten thousand acres have been cultivated, of which the greater part is substantially fenced. The most noticeable feature of the country is the large quantity of cattle to be seen grazing in the district. Nearly five thousand head, besides horses and sheep are depastured on the isthmus alone. AUCKLAND. 267 Immediately adjoining the boundaryof the Borough, to the south-east, is the Papakura district, extending along the eastern shores by the Manul^au Harbor for a distance of ten" or twelve miles : this district is hounded on the west by the waters of the Manukau, which deeply indent it in various directions, with its numerous creeks. The centre of the district comprises a plain or flat valley, running inland, in an easterly direction, from the Papakura Pah, for many miles, until it reaches the Wairoa Eiver. About one-half of this plain is densely timbered — the remaining portion being clear and open, hut agreeably diversified with clumps and belts, which give it a park-like appearance. These belts and clumps consist of a rich variety of wood ; the graceful tree-fern, and the deep-green, glittering-leafed karaka, clustering, in unusual profusion, around the tall stems of the statelier forest trees. Surrounded by these ornamental woods, melodious with the song of birds, are here and there clear open spots of ground of various size, sheltered from every wind — choice sites for homestead, park, or garden. The soil of the plain is of various character — a considerable portion, consisting of a light dry vegetable soil, well adapted for clover paddocks, or for the growth of barley ; about an equal quantity is dark- colored, good, strong flax land, suitable for wheat and potatoes, the remainder being rich swampy land, for the most part, capable of drainage. On the north and on the south, the plain is hounded by rugged ridges, densely covered with kauri and other timber — and it is watered by a small, hut never-failing, stream of excellent water. The plain of Papakura is best seen from the highest point of the southern ridge, about four miles to the south-east of the site of the old Pah. There may he seen on a bright sunny day, a panoramic view, than which, in the whole of New Zealand, there are few mere beautiful. “The general salubrity of the climate of New Zealand has 268 NEW ZEALAND. now been established by the experience of years. For per- sons of delicate constitution, pre -disposed to disease of the lungs, it is unequalled, save by Madeira. Compared with that of Nice, one of the most celebrated continental climates, the climate of Auckland is more temperate in summer — milder in the winter — equally mild in the spring — but a little colder in the autumn : — with this advantage, too, over all the boasted continental climates, that it is not so liable to the very great variations of temperature common to them all from sudden shifts of wind. The climate of New Zealand is doubtless less charming and delightful than that of Italy and the South of France, but it is certainly more salubrious, and probably better suited to the English con- stitution, generally, than even the climate of Madeira. For although it has its share of wind, rain, and broken weather, it has the advantage over Italy and France, in being more limited in range of temperature — embracing a less oppressive summer heat, and less sudden changes of temperature during the twenty-four hours, and a more gradual change of tem- perature from month to month. ‘‘ Many of the Continental and Mediterranean climates are, during certain seasons of the year, finer, steadier, more agreeable than, and equally salubrious as, that of New Zealand, but their summer heat is in some cases too great ; their autumn weather frequently unhealthy — winter, too cold — and spring objectionable from being liable to gusts of cold and chilling winds. By moving constantly about throughout the year — traversing continents and seas, it would no doubt be possible to be always in a fine and salu- brious climate. But, as a fixed and permanent residence, there are probably few places to be found, in all respects, more suitable to the English constitution than New Zealand ; and if that be so, then, few more suitable for persons of delicate chest or lungs; the true theory being, that for preventing the development of diseases of the chest, that is AUCKLAND. 269 the best climate which will admit of the greatest and most constant exposure to the open air, and which is at the same time best calculated to promote the general health ; a ten- dency to disease of any kind being best warded off by keeping the bodily system in a vigorous tone of health. Compared with Great Britain, New Zealand, so far as its general salubrity can be ascertained, possesses a marked superiority. From the results of observations made by Dr. Thomson, of the 58th Eegiment, for a period of two years, from April 1848, to April 1850, when the strength of the troops stationed in the colony amounted to nearly two thousand men, it appears from the following valuable Tables compiled by him, that, taking diseases generally, out of every thousand men, twice as many were admitted into hospital in England as were admitted into hospital in New Zealand. And the mortality, amongst equal numbers treated was about 8~ in New Zealand to 14 in England. Cases of fever in New Zealand are rare. From the same Returns, it appears there are six cases of fever in Great Britain for one in New Zealand ; and out of forty- seven cases in New Zealand there was but one death. Of diseases of the lungs, three cases were admitted into hospital in Great Britain to one in New Zealand ; and out of an equal number treated, seven terminated fatally in Great Britain, and but four in New Zealand. Diseases of the stomach and bowels are more prevalent by half in Great Britain than in New Zealand. Diseases of the liver and brain are nearly the same in the two countries. The only class of cases in which the comparison is unfavorable to New Zealand are complaints of the eye, which are more than twice as numerous here as they are in Great Britain. Small-pox and measles are as yet unknown in New Zealand. O S o « a f§ I 2 *=> pc^'O SB ^ o “ ” n^t • OV »OOOCO(MrHC<|Tf COrHr--(J>-0 •COC<|r-(000‘000':OT-H i-t io c£>* ^ TtH o p S50 “ 2 f ^ fciiD_ ^ ^ § o^ c22 ^ a 2 fcD^ 2 o C3 H '.S H ^ '3 1-H • CD cq 00 « ticro aj iDj35 - C C ^ o ^ tn! C30 S 2 o 2 °° lo fp p O 'Pr—-- ^ a fac 2 ^ C3 £-1 ^P 2 g p 'S , ■2 .2 c3 ® ^ . 1:^ cq ^ cq Tfi 1 — I cq cq cq cq ‘oquooqTjHioooocqcM • cq ^oocoir^oocq>o rH CO cq I— T-1 P S g a> t> ^ M M ^ ^ ^ o o O ZQ O OJ P ci a g-2 1 '^ Q ^ CO S ^ ■rt ^ Pl4 P 0^ S ® o 2 « P( HPPP^!>' ^ 'n P P ^ o y c3 P cc ;£ S ^ ^ 'S ^ M r§ O o ^ O P S ^ *5 o § g S o 270 AUCKLAND. 271 “ Comparing New Zealand with the healthiest Foreign stations of the British army, it will appear from the fol- lowing Table, compiled by the same authority, taking into account all classes of disease receiving hospital treatment, that the comparison is greatly in favor of this country. And with reference to pulmonary disease, there are in Malta two cases for one in New Zealand. In the Ionian Islands there are three cases to two in this country. At the Cape of Good Hope there are ten cases for six in New Zealand. In the Mauritius there are the fewest number of cases treated after New Zealand — the proportion being about eight in the Mauritius to six in New Zealand ; but the mortality from pulmonary disease is twice as great in the Mauritius as it is in New Zealand. While in Australia there are twice as many cases of pectoral disease as in New Zealand, and the disease being, at the same time, twice as fatal : — STATIONS. Annual ratio of Mortality per 1000 among the Troops from all diseases Number of men attacked annually out of 1000 by Pectoral Complaints. Average number of deaths out of 1000 men during a year from Pectoral Diseases. Malta 18 120 6 0 Ionian Islands 28 90 4-8 Bermuda 30 126 8-7 Canada 20 148 6-7 Gibraltar 22 141 6-3 Cape of Good Hope.. . . 15 98 30 Mauritius 30 84 5-6 United Kingdom 14 148 8-0 Australian Continent . . 11 133 5-8 New Zealand 8^ 60 2-7 ‘‘In cases of Fever, there are at least live in Malta, the Cape, and in Australia, to one in New Zealand. ‘ ‘ Of Complaints of the Liver, there are two cases in the above-mentioned places to one in New Zealand. “ And of diseases of the Stomach and Bowels, there are more than two cases at each of the above-mentioned places for one in this country. 272 NEW ZEALAND. Table slio^ving the Annual Eatio of Admissions and Deaths among 1000 Troops at the following Stations from the undermentioned Classes of Disease ; — DISEASES. Cape of Good Hope. 1 Malta. Australian Continent. New Zealand. 1 Attacked. Deaths. Attacked. Deaths. Attacked. 1 Deaths. Attacked. Deaths. Fevers 88 1-9 173 29 65 1*2 13 0-3 Liver Complaints 22 M 21 11 15 •1 7 0*4 Disease of Stomach \ and Bowels / 126 3T 155 36 153 1-5 60 •9 * From seven years observation, ending March 1850, kindly furnished by Staff-Surgeon Shanks, Principal Medical Officer, New South Wales. But assuming the above Eeturns to show correctly the comparative healthiness of our troops in Grreat Britain, and at the various Foreign Stations, it doos not necessarily fol- low that they correctly exhibit the comparative salubrity of the climates of the countries to which they relate, so far at least as regards the community at large — and for this reason, that our troops are for the most part lodged in bar- racks ; and that the health of the men is influenced by the manner in which they are lodged, as well as by the climate of the country in which they may be stationed ; and that barracks vary considerably in the several important parti- culars of size, ventilation, construction, and position. This result, therefore, might easily follow — that men stationed in a bad climate but lodged in barracks erected on a well chosen site, spacious, dry, well ventilated, well drained, and supplied with good water, may have fewer hospital cases and less mortality, than men stationed in a good climate, AUCKLAISD. 273 but lodged in barracks in a bad situation, close confined, ill drained, and badly constructed. But, making allowance for all such disturbing causes, there can be no doubt that the foregoing Tables afibrd satisfactory proof of the general salubrity of the country. Compared with an English summer, that of Auckland is but little warmer, though much longer. But the nights in New Zealand are always cool and refreshing, and rest is never lost from the warmth and closeness of the night. It is also much warmer here both in the spring and autumn ; and the winter weather of England, from the middle of November to the middle of March, with its parching easterly winds, cold, fog, and snow, altogether unknown. Snow, indeed, is never seen here ; ice, very thin and very rarely ; and hail is neither common nor destructive. The winter, however, is very wet, but not colder than an English April or October. There is a greater prevalence of high winds, too, than is personally agreeable : but with less wind the climate would not be more healthy. There is most wind in the spring and autumn ; rather less in the summer ; and least of all in winter.” The European Population in the province of Auckland in 1853 was 11,033, and, so far as can be gathered from the imperfect returns recently made, the population of the entire province is at present about 13,000, or probably rather over than under that number. In 1851 the Revenue of the entire colony of NTew Zealand was only £78,495 8s. 8d. In 1854 the Revenue was £226,901 16s. 6d., and has since been, and still continues, rapidly on the increase, although the Government, owing to the difficulty (they say) of getting the T 274 NEW ZEALAND. returns from the distant provinces cannot supply us with the figures for 1855. While it is our intention as we proceed to furnish the number of inhabitants residing in each province, as nearly as that number can be ascertained, at a rough calcu- lation, we believe the European Population of the entire colony to be about 50,000. The number of the Aboriginal Tribes, we have heard variously computed, but we imagine it does not now exceed 40,000, and the number is rapidly decreasing. The native fiax of New Zealand is an article which ere long will be extensively cultivated, and exported from the colony in large quantities. Mr. Whytlaw, a most enterprising and intelligent gentleman, who favored us with the following explanatory letter, has devoted his time, talent, and capital to the subject for several years; and he is now, we believe, on the eve of being amply rewarded for his labor, by the complete success of his experiments. We personally inspected his numerous buildings and extensive domain, distant about thirty miles from Auckland, in the Matakana district. The beautiful machinery for the prepa- ration of the fiax prior to its exportation, which was completed after Mr. Whytlaw^s design, is declared to be an excellent invention, and one in every way adapted for the completion of the designer’s purpose on an extended scale. Other gentlemen are waiting the result of the experi- ment, in order (if successful) to take advantage of AUCKLAND. 275 the originator’s plans, and embark in a similar undertaking. No less for the future interests of the colony than as a just return for the talented exertions of one of her spirited and upright citi- zens, we wish every success to Mr. Whytlaw and his noble enterprise : — The native flax of ^few Zealand ( Phormium Tenax ) of which there are several varieties, has always attracted much attention from those who have visited the country, as an article which ought to form a valuable colonial export. The beautiful samples which have frequently been prepared by the manipulation of the natives, show the great degree of fineness to which the fibre can be reduced, and its strength has been long considered as much greater than that of European flax. ‘‘ The chief, if not the only reason why it has not been more extensively used in British manufactures is, that the supplies of the raw material, as prepared by the natives, have been extremely limited and uncertain; afibrding no encouragement to the parties at home disposed to use it, to alter and adapt their machinery to the peculiar character of the article. “ The mode of preparing the flax by the natives, which has been often described, is very tedious, an expert hand not being able to produce, on an average, more than lOlbs. weight per day. The work is chiefly done by the women. A simple and efficient method of dressing the flax by machinery has, therefore, been long felt a desideratum, and numerous have been the efibrts to supply this. Hitherto, none of these attempts have been productive of more than mere samples. With the stronger inducements of mer- cantile and agricultural pursuits to realize speedier returns for capital, few have had the courage to persevere in their 276 NEW ZEALAND. attempts to accomplisli tlie important object. Of late, bow- ever, as the war in Europe bas raised tbe value of flax so much, there is now tbe greatest encouragement to establish a trade in this article ; and I am glad to say that one gen- tleman who bas for many years past, devoted bis attention to tbe subject, bas recently brought out from England tbe materiel of a large factory, which is in process of erection at a short distance from this ; and that bis method of pre- paring tbe flax by machinery of bis own invention, on an entirely novel principle, appears to be of tbe simplest and most efficient description. He expects to have bis produce in tbe market in about a year from this date ; a short time tbx^refore, will prove whether bis anticipations will be realized. If this establishment succeeds, doubtless many will follow tbe same course ; and I do not despair of seeing this interesting and delightful country posses- sing in a short time, an export that may ultimately rival some of tbe most valuable of those of tbe neighbouring colonies. ‘‘M. Whytlaw. ‘‘Auckland, 14tb JN’ov., 1855.’’ CENSUS EETUEN FOE THE PEOYINCE OF AUCKLAND, MARCH 31, 1855. Males. Females. Total. Children between 5 and 15. In Day Schools. In Sunday Schools. In Day and Sunday Schools. 6701 5218 11,919 1776 979 216 459 Two-thirds, or probably more, of the native or Maori race of the entire colony of New Zealand are to be found in this and the adjoining province AUCKLAND. 277 of Taranaki. In the province of Wellington there is a moderate number ; in Nelson less ; in Canter- bury still less ; and in Otago only about 500. For the information of intending emigrants we will, as nearly as we can, give the relative dis- tances (by water) between the respective provinces, commencing in the north, at Auckland, and pro- ceeding southward in the order in which the settlements are described. But emigrants should endeavour, if possible, to secure their passage in a ship bound direct to a province in which they intend to settle ; otherwise they will find the delay great, the opportunities few, and the expense considerable, in getting from one settlement to another. Distance from Auckland to Taranaki, about 130 miles ; Taranaki to Nelson, 160 miles ; Nelson to Wellington, 120 miles; Wellington to Canter- bury, 160 miles ; Canterbury to Otago, 170 miles ; Otago to the Bluff, or the newly-opened southern port of Invercargill, 120 miles. With regard to vegetation in New Zealand, the remarks of those whose evidence is founded on considerable personal experience require from us but little in the way of confirmation. We will merely observe that whatever is grown in England may be grown in an equal, if not in a greater degree of perfection in the colony — where may be seen in full bloom flowers and plants which in any part of the United Kingdom would require from 278 NEW ZEALAND. the florist or botanist the most sedulous care, together with the artificial warmth of a hot-house. Good fish is something that neither of the Australian settlements can boast of. True, the harbors and rivers both of Australia and New Zealand abound with fish of various sorts ; but, with one or two exceptions, these sorts are either dry, insipid, or tasteless. There is nothing to compensate for the want of salmon, turbot, sole, cod, &c. Indeed, the best fish on the Australian or New Zealand coast is not equal, either in flavor or quality to the most inferior description peculiar to the British Isles. Of sharks there may be found an extraordinary quantity ; and so daring and so plentiful are these monsters, that sea bathing is not unattended with con- siderable danger. On two occasions we have been near a bathing spot at a period when human life was sacrificed by the sea vipers. TAEANAKI, OK, EW PLYMOUTH. New Plymouth or Taranaki, the native name by wbicb it is more generally known, is distant from Auckland — or rather from Manakan harbor, six miles from Auckland — about 130 miles, or from fifteen to twenty hours’ sail. The journey may be taken overland, but as there is no public road, and as the task involves a considerable amount of labor and time, it is but seldom under- taken, except by the excursionist or those anxious to see the interior of the country. During our short stay in the province we were much pleased with its appearance. The land is equal, if not superior, to that in any other part of New Zealand ; but it is at the same time more circmnscribed. New Plymouth being the smallest settlement in the colony. Here, as in Auckland, the price obtained for land near the township appears extravagantly high. That it has reached its maximum, and something more, many persons are disposed to believe. So long, however, as the 280 NEW ZEALAND. colony continues in its present flourishing condi- tion, and districts become more thickly populated, money will continue to be made by speculation and investments in land in all parts of the coun- try ; and, strange as it may appear, there is not a province in New Zealand in which land may not be found near the townships — purchased a few years since for onCy two, or three pounds an acre — which at this moment would find a ready sale at one hundred, two hundred, or three hundred pounds an acre. In some cases much larger amounts have been or might be realized. We may instance a case within our own knowledge in which a gen- tleman with whom we are acquainted (an absentee) came over from Melbourne, only two years since, and invested £600 in the purchase of twelve hun- dred acres of land in a district which gave promise of a future important township. The lucky pur- chaser has just now, for the first time since the purchase, visited his property, and finds that by dividing it into small sections, for building and other purposes, he can realize a sum ' of at least £3,000 over and above the original outlay. In two or three years hence, as the district becomes more thickly populated, the collective purchasers of these allotments will in all probability have to divide a much larger profit than that realized or about to be realized by the original owner. The property here referred to is in the neighbourhood of Whanganui, about 110 miles from Wellington. NEW PLYMOUTH. 281 The case itself is not an exceptional one ; for, extravagant and artificial as the prices appear whicli are sometimes paid by the sub-purchasers of property, up to the present time we have not known nor heard of an instance of any one losing money by the purchase of land in New Zealand. With reference to the facilities and opportu- nities for the purchase of land by strangers, a few words may not be out of place. Newly arrived immigrants are frequently most unreasonable in their wants and expectations on this subject. Landed at one of the ports in the colony, they expect to obtain any spot in any district at their own, or at merely a nominal price. On being told that all the land within a circuit of ten or fifteen miles of the spot on which they stand has been purchased, but that plenty of unpurchased land may be obtained in the interior, or in districts where new townships are contemplated, or are in course of formation, they declare themselves de- ceived, and rail at the Government and their imaginary deceivers accordingly. If they were only to look around them (as they ultimately do) and fix on some spot, of which there are scores in the colony, that gives promise of a future town- ship, and embark their means in a judicious manner, a few years would enable them to exclaim with an air of exultation to other new comers — • Bide your time, and ymr turn will come as ours has done/^ It is totally unreasonable for new 282 NEW ZEALAND. hands to hope, without time and labor, for the benefits reaped by old ones. In New Plymouth, as in all other parts of the colony, plenty and prosperity are everywhere visible. During the whole of our stay in New Zealand, we never saw nor heard of such a being as a beggar — a creature by no means a novelty in the United Kingdom. Contrary to the opinion of Mr. Earp, an old colonist, from whose work we have extracted a sketch of this province, we consider the want of a harbor a serious barrier to the commercial progress of Taranaki. The author’s remarks with reference to the assistance rendered by this to other parts of the colony were no doubt correct at the time they were penned, and when some of the southern districts, with regard to population, were yet in their infancy ; but those provinces to which the observations apply not only at present yield fruits of the earth in greater abundance now than for- merly, but considerably greater than is required for their own consumption ; while large shipments of the surplus are made to the Australian colonies. Society in New Plymouth is much superior to that in Auckland ; and although the natives are rather numerous here, and are sometimes a little troublesome, the province is altogether a very de- lightful one, and would become a much more important one if it had the advantage of a good harbor. NEW PLYMOUTH. 283 Tlie following is an extract from Mr. Earp’s description of Taranaki : — “ The district of Taranaki, which comprises the country around Mount Egmont, has with justice been termed “ the garden of l^ew Zealand,” and whether we regard the serenity of its climate, the fertility of its soil, or the extent of land available for the agriculturist, it is surpassed by no other locality in either island, though in extent alone, the New Plymouth district must yield to the huge plains which reach from Banks’ Peninsula to the southern extremity of the Middle Island. The attention of the early settlers was first drawn to the Taranaki district by the lamentations of the Port Nicholson natives, who a few years only previous to the colonization of New Zealand, had been driven from their former homes by Te Whero Whero, the chief of the powerful Waikato tribes. By this chief, Taranaki was regarded as a hunting ground, whenever his propensities for cruelty and cannibalism urged him to harass the wretched inhabitants — his game being men instead of animals. Harassed by his constant incursions — for he never destroyed more than would satiate his bloodthirstiness, carefully preserving sufficient for the ensuing season’s excursion — the natives were persuaded, with much difficulty, to evacuate their cherished locality and to fight their way southward, where they might find a locality beyond the power of their tor- mentor. Their adviser was Mr. Bichard Barrett, who subsequently afforded efficient aid to Colonel Wakefield in the acquisition of the territory now in the possession of the New Zealand Company. Mr. Barrett having defeated Te Whero Whero in the last attack made by that chief, the latter retired for a short time to his own district, to recruit his forces, and to devise such means as should utterly annihilate the tribes from whom he had received a check so 284 NEW ZEALAND. unexpected. This interval was taken advantage of by Mr. Barrett to evacuate the place, and to make a rapid retreat southward ; the retreating natives were, however, inter- cepted at Wanganui, another fight ensuing, in which Te Whero Whero was again defeated, and, after various vicissi- tudes, the fugitive tribes settled in Port Nicholson and its vicinity, the feeble inhabitants of which locality fled at the approach of their invaders, compelling the master of a vessel lying in their harbor to carry them to the Chatham Islands, where they in their turn hold the aborigines in abject slavery to this day. Such was the state of the native tribes previous to the colonization of the islands. ^‘The attention of Colonel Wakefield was speedily drawn by the Port Nicholson natives to the rich district from which they had been driven, numerous requests being made of him for a passage in his ship, that, to use their own expressions, ‘‘ they might once more look upon the land of their fathers.’’^ This, of course, could not be complied with, but on visiting Taranaki, he found that the glowing accounts of the natives had not been exaggerated. The representations which he made home respecting the district led to a company being formed at Plymouth for the purpose of occupying Taranaki, and with such vigour were their measures carried out, that a considerable colony, composed for the most part of gen- tlemen from the south of England, with a numerous body of Devon and Cornish peasants, was speedily on its way to Taranaki, where, amidst all the past troubles of the colony, they have remained, prosperous and increasing, nor do we ever remember one single instance of complaint from any, whilst the commendations of both district and climate abound, from those of the humblest settler to the merited eulogiums of the Bishop of New Zealand. New Plymouth, though a small settlement in com- parison with others, was the first in New Zealand, not only to feed itself, but to export its own produce. While the NEW PLYMOUTH. 285 commercial settlements of Wellington and Auckland were importing corn from Sidney and tke West coast of South America, New Plymouth was exporting corn to both. Like Nelson, New Plymouth owed nothing to the expenditure caused by the troops, which have been so extensively em- ployed in the other settlements ; it was isolated from the disturbed districts, and not a single soldier was necessary for its defence. The inhabitants having no resources of this nature, and but few of a commercial kind beyond the export of their surplus produce, steadily applied themselves to agriculture and sheep-farming, and with such success that a poor or a disappointed man is scarcely to be found amongst them, every man literally living under his own vine and fig-tree.’’ ‘‘ The New Plymouth people are well aware of the pro- ductive powers of their own settlement. When the Canter- bury Settlement was first projected, it was the recomendation of the Bishop that it should be located at New Pl}Tnouth, but the committee of the Canterbury Association decided otherwise. On this a New Plymouth settler shrewdly re- marked — ‘‘It is no matter, wherever they may settle, we shall have the pleasure and the profit of feeding them till they can run alone, and thus find another market for our rapidly increasing surplus produce.” And it is a fact that this, the least of the older settlements, has for many years past fed the larger, there being no limit to its productive- ness, but want of small capitalists to reclaim new lands. “ Testimonies to the capabilities of this favored district are abundant — one or two will suffice, as carrying an au- thority not to be disputed. Sir George Grey, the present Governor of New Zealand, thus spoke of it in a despatch to the Government — “ I have never, in any part of the world, seen such extensive tracts of fertile and unoccupied land as at New Plymouth.” The Bishop, in his journal of 1848, states — “No one can speak of the soil or scenery of New 286 NEW ZEALAND. Zealand till lie has seen both the natural beauties and the ripening harvest of Taranaki.^’ Dielfenhach, in his travels, states — “The whole district of Taranaki, as far as I have seen, rivals any in the world in fertility, beauty, and fitness for becoming the dwelling-place of civilized European com- munities.” And again — “ In future times, this picturesque valley (Waiwakaio), as well as Mount Egmont and the smiling open land at its base, will become as celebrated for their beauty as the Bay of Naples, and will attract travellers from all parts of the globe.” Mr. Fox, the successor of Colonel Wakefield, also thus writes to the New Zealand Company — “ Of the capabilities of the district, in an agri- cultural point of view, it would be difficult to speak too highly. I was much struck with the fertility of the soil. Some idea of it may be formed from the fact that thirty- five acres of grass and white clover, during last year, carried nearly three hundred sheep for a twelvemonth in excellent condition — a quantity, I believe, double to what the best pastures in England will carry.” “ The drawback to the settlement is the want of a harbor, as usually understood by a land-locked bay. The roadstead is, however, an excellent one, though for three months in the year requiring a vessel to be ready for sea, in the event of a sudden north-west gale. At all other periods of the year the roadstead is as safe as are any of the harbors in the colony; whilst in the dangerous season, the opposite side of the Strait afibrds harbors of the finest description in abundance, a few hours sufficing to place a vessel in safety, the very gale which compelled them to quit their anchor becoming a fair wind for gaining a port of shelter ; the southern shore of Cook’s Strait forming a continuous chain of such harbors, the most easily approached being Port Hardy, and the far-famed series of havens forming ^ueen Charlotte’s Sound. “ With this want of a land-locked harbor, it will be long NEW PLYMOUTH. 287 before New Plpnontli becomes a place of any considerable commercial consequence, nor is it desirable that it should be so. The land is the true wealth of the colonists, and to this they have wisely and solely directed their attention, reaping their reward long before those settlements which have for the most part depended on commerce. Not that the road- stead of New Plymouth is unsuited to the purposes of commerce; on the contrary, there are many ports in the British dominions, which are of great commercial conse- quence, to which access is of tenfold more difficulty than the port of Taranaki. No one, for instance, who knows Madras, would for a moment take into account the difficulty of landing at New Plymouth. Neither would the seaman who has rode out a gale of wind at the Cape of Good Hope, where safety depends altogether on the strength of the ship’s cables — escape, in the event of these failing, being next to impossible — ^make any difficulty of the worst posi- tion in which he could be placed at New Plymouth. When the settlement has attained that commercial standing to which its rapidly increasing exports will, at no distant date, entitle it, we shall hear no more of the drawbacks to what is, in reality, an excellent anchorage; and when it shall have become rich enough to improve the natural facilities for forming an artificial harbor at comparatively a trifling expense, there will be an end to the fancied difficulties of the Taranaki roadstead. Still, in the present state of the settlement, the settler will do well to bear in mind, that it would be unwise to form an establishment at New Plymouth for other than agricultural or pastoral purposes; and he may also bear in mind, that in no part of the colony will his reasonable expectations be more surely fulfilled, or his exertions more bountifully rewarded. ‘‘ Like Nelson, the society of New Plymouth is of a supe- rior order. The commercial ports of any colony partake in no slight degree of too many of the characteristics of 288 NEW ZEALAND. Portsmoutli or Wapping: these are inseparable from them, and their evil influences extend, more or less, to no inconsi- derable portion of the population. The party squabbles, too, which invariably characterise a mixed and heterogeneous population, such as is usually found in great colonial sea- ports, render them anjdhing but desirable localities for the quiet agriculturist ; and the better prices which he obtains, in consequence of his vicinity to a seaport, scarcely compen- sate for the interruptions to progress and the temptations to non-progress which so frequently beset him. “ Though the population of the JSTew Plymouth settlement scarcely reaches 2,000, its social institutions are very excel- lent. The means for religious worship are ample and of great efficiency, as regards the various denominations of Christians, who here work together in a harmony not usually found amidst sectarianism. The educational resources of the place are equally excellent, and no man, other than wil- fully, can complain that his children are out of the reach of instruction. The only useless social institution is the jail, which happily stands rather in terror em than in usum ; nor, judging from the character of the inhabitants, does it seem likely to be applied to any other use at present. ‘‘ The settlement, though in point of climate and soil, unquestionably the finest in New Zealand, has been much neglected. It was originally founded by a body of Devon- shire and Cornish gentlemen, and to them it has been chiefly indebted for its present inhabitants. On the cessation of the Plymouth Company, it was turned over to the New Zealand Company, by whom it has been unaccountably neglected. One of their first measures was to raise the price of its waste lands, thus practically prohibiting emi- gration to it. A restoration of the original price — now that the power of this is in the hands of the Grovernment — ^would be a boon to the settlement which would speedily produce a marked result.’^ NEW PLYMOUTH. 289 For tlie compilation of the following Eeturns we are indebted to one of the leading merchants in New Plymouth — Mr. Llewellyn Nash : — IMPOETS AND EXPORTS. Imports. Exports. £ s. d. £ s. d. 1851 9,088 15 9 1852 20,362 10 6 1853 30,010 9 0 8,713 3 6 1854 35,333 18 3 14,170 9 6 1855 34,967 15 0 20,982 1 0 1856. Jan. to Mar. 7,659 9 0 2,756 18 0 Until July quarter of 1853, all our surplus produce went coastwise, and consequently swelled the returns of those ports, viz., Auckland and Wellington, when the goods were shipped out of the colony. CUSTOMS REVENUE FOR THE FOLLOWING PERIODS. £ s. d. 1851 .... 1,508 3 0 1852 .... 2,491 19 5 1853 .... 3,311 9 0 1854 . ... 4,284 10 7 1855 .... 5,256 7 3 1856. January to March .... 1,201 10 11 CONSUMPTION OF SPIRITS During the period from 1st January, 1851, to 31st March, 1856 ; duty paid at the port of New Plymouth. Gallons. Duty. 1851 1,750T3 2,538*8 3,222*11 4,132*15 7,755-9 1, 945-24 £ 8. d. 473 15 10 761 9 2 966 14 3 1239 15 1 2326 12 1 583 14 6 1852 1853 1854 1855 fist Jan. to \ 1 31st Mar. j U 290 NEW ZEALAND. QUANTITIES AND VALUES OF SPIRITS Imported under Bond, during the period from the 1st January, 1851, to 31st March, 1856. Gallons. Value. £ s. d. 1851. , 1,719 626 16 0 1852. , 3,442 1248 5 9 1853. . 3,605 1765 6 2 1854. , 4,449 1964 7 0 1855. . 9,236 3639 19 6 1856. j 1st Jan. to \ \31st Mar. j 1,366 674 15 0 Revenue and Expenditure of the Provincial Grovernment of New Plymouth, for the Year ending the 31st December, 1855. Total Revenue £10,981 9 10 Total Expenditure 9,107 8 10 POPULATION. The Population Tables, now in course of com- pilation in this district, have not reached us in time for press ; but we believe the entire European Population of this small and flourishing province to be about 3,000. There is room enough for ten times that number — with a fair prospect of an early fortune for each; NELSON. That wliicli Torquay is considered in the West of England, Scarboro’ in the north, Matlock in Derbyshire, Tunbridge Wells in Kent, Ventnor in the Isle of Wight, Inverary in Scotland, the Lakes of Killarney in Ireland, or Aberyswith in Wales, Nelson may be considered in New Zealand — the most charming spot in a charming country. While we are familiar with nearly every part of the United Kingdom, and, for beauty of scenery, climate, and society, give the preference, as occa- sional visitors at the respective seasons, to the places enumerated above, if fortune decreed that we should select some part of New Zealand for our future residence, we would at once and without hesitation fix on Nelson as our permanent abode. With a climate even superior to that in any other part of the colony, with respectable society, with a people infinitely more hospitable than any in the southern hemisphere, and with a smaller amount of political animosity and social strife than 292 KEW ZEALAND. may be found in any other province — apart from her commercial advantages and mineral wealth, and considered merely as a delightful retreat for those who would wish to live happily, and who can derive happiness themselves by seeing those around endeavouring to dispense it to others. Nelson above all other places south of the line, is a home where the honest heart will meet with kinsmen, kindness, and friendship, and where every good deed will find a responsive virtue. Jealous as the provinces are of each other on most matters, the superiority of the climate of Nelson is a fact but seldom if ever questioned. It is so generally admitted, that the writer whom we previously quoted merely observes : — “ It is almost unnecessary to say anything of the climate of Nelson. The extreme salubrity and excellence of that of the whole colony is universally known and admitted. The test which King Charles applied to the English chmate, that there were more days in the year when people could be in the open air than anywhere else, applies with con- siderably more force here. With a very great amount of sunshine, the heat is never excessive, or ever disagreeable ; while, with an abundance of rain, there is no continual wet season. The only defect in any part of New Zealand is, that there is too much wind to be agreeable ; not that it blows harder than it blows on the English coast at times, but it blows hard oftener. In this respect, however, Nelson is, I believe, the most favored place in the country. Thfe wind, though for about three months in the spring and summer blows fresh for days together, is seldom violent l^ELSON. 293 or tempestuous, and in tlie winter it blows very little indeed; days and even weeks almost perfectly calm, witb brilliant sunshine by day, and magnificent moonlight at night, occurring at that season. In the other settlements of New Zealand, it is not unusual, in extraordinarily fine weather, to hear the observation — ‘‘ This is Nelson weather,” though their own is much above the average of English weather. Of the general mildness of the climate, an idea may be gathered from the fact that the flocks of sheep frequently lamb in mid- winter in the open country; and unless there happens to be an unusually heavy rain or severe frost at the very time of lambing, a vbry small per centage of losses — perhaps not above five to ten per cent — will occur. Geraniums, fuschias, senotheras, picotees, and other summer flowers of England, continue to bloom in Nelson during the winter months. One peculiarity of the climate may be noticed, which is, that there are in fact only two seasons — the summer, and what we call winter. There are no transition seasons of spring and autumn, or at all events, hardly perceptible as such ; and their absence is the more observed from the fact, that nearly all the indigenous trees are evergreen, so that there is no periodical fall or renewal of the leaf — a circumstance to be regretted by the admirer of the picturesque, were it not compensated by the fact that the forests maintain their usual verdure all the winter long.” From our own experience, we are enabled to remark on one striking feature by which the leading men of Nelson are distinguished from those in many other parts of the colony. The leaders and self-created patriots in some of the provinces — to whom we shall hereafter allude — make their professed patriotism and love of country 294 NEW ZEALAND. merely a vehicle for party or political purposes, while their amount of real interest in the welfare of the colony may be correctly ascertained by the extent of land they possess in their own locality, or by the political capital, in the shape of official revenue, which they derive therefrom. A clap- trap speech of some half a dozen foolscap folios may secure for the sham professor a few of those scattered sweets of human aye,^^ which he places in his political garner to serve his own particular time and purpose. But ask such an one — as we have had occasion to do — for statistical or other information which might interest the British public, and prove of ultimate benefit to the colony, and the colonial gleaner politely declines a service from which there is no prospect either of present fame or future reward. The very opposite of the selfish motives des- cribed inspire the principal residents of Nelson, each of whom would appear anxious to excel the other in a desire not only, by personal sacrifice, to render any and every assistance which might tend to benefit the province and its inhabitants, but in the still more disinterested wish to lend a helping hand, or to volunteer any aid that might be useful to the position, or grateful to the mind of a stranger. We might instance a variety of remarkable acts of sympathetic hospitality peculiar to the pro- vince ; but there came under our own immediate NEI^ON. 295 notice one case which we consider worthy of record. In the ports of New Zealand there are not at present any wharves or piers at which the depth of water is sufficient to enable passengers to dis- embark even from coasting vessels, without the aid of boats. On arriving in Nelson, after a tempestuous passage, from one of the southern settlements, we were soon on our way to the shore in a small boat, in company with a widow lady and her two children (one an infant), of whom we had seen nothing during the voyage, as the mother’s strength had been completely prostrated from the effects of sea sickness. They were on their way to join their friends in the North Island, but were compelled for a few days, to take up their quarters on shore till the time appointed for the steamer’s departure for Taranaki. Pre- suming we were familiar with the people and locality, the disconsolate looking lady wished to know whether we could direct her to respectable apartments in the town. Having informed the lady that in the want of knowledge she sought might be found our own reason for not supplying it, we accompanied her through the town, and succeeded with the aid of the ship steward, who carried one of the children, in obtaining for herself and little ones apartments in the house of a hum- ble but respectable family. Leaving our hotel on the following morning, we proceeded to inquire after the sea- sick voyagers ; but we were not a 296 NEW ZEALAND. little surprised to learn from the domestic of the house in which they had passed the night, that after discharging the cost of their lodging, they accompanied a lady and gentleman by whom they were driven away in a chaise ; but whither they went, or the names of the persons with whom they departed could neither be given nor ascertained ; and we closed for ever, as we then imagined, our knowledge, if not our interest, in the domestic drama, with the word — mysterious, A day or two after the period of the incident related, we happened to dine with a gentleman of note in the province. On taking our seat at the sumptuously supplied table of Mr. and Mrs. our surprise on the occasion was exceeded by grati- fication, on recognising as our vis-a-vis, the former disconsolate, but now cheerful looking widow, whose sudden disappearance from her lodgings, had, till now, been unaccounted for. We sub- sequently discovered that the worthy host and hostess had accidentally heard of the widow’s arrival and friendless position, and having in early life had some slight knowledge of her deceased husband, they at once, and without ceremony waited on the lady, and insisted not only on conveying her to their house, but also on making that house a home for herself and chil- dren during their stay in Nelson. This simple but truthful story requires no com- ment from us, beyond a hope that the spontaneous NELSON. 297 act of hospitality it reveals, may open a way to the hearts of those of the human kind who need a lesson from a page of life, copied in its pure yet potent simplicity from nature’s noble work of charity. Except that her inhabitants are in a position rather to bestow than to receive alms, Nelson may be compared to an extensive circle of comfortable alms houses, in which, though strangers by birth, the inmates are all members of one family — the in- troduction to whom of any respectable new comer, will at once enable the stranger to participate in the ordinary fare and family festivities of those whose only kindred tie is that of faith with good fellowship. For the following description and statistics of the province we are indebted to a local pub- lication. “ The province of Nelson comprises all that part of the Middle Island which lies between Cook’s Straits on the north, and the Mawera or Grey, in S. latitude, 42^ 32’ and Hurunui rivers on the south; and contains about 18,000,000 of acres of very diversified character. On the west a range of lofty mountains of hold and rugged outline extends along the coast, here and there pierced by valleys of various width, through which several rivers and streams find an outlet to the sea. Of these the Wakapori, Haihai, Karamea, Buller, Ngawaipakiro, and Grey, are the prin- cipal. None of these rivers are navigable for vessels of any size, and the Buller and Grey are the only ones which have yet been entered by boats ; nor is any harbor known to exist between Cape Farewell and the Grey, except at 298 NEW ZEALAND. West Wanganui, where there is a safe harbor for moderate- sized vessels. From the generally precipitous character of the coast range, the land available for tillage along the west coast is of comparatively small extent, and is contained within the limits of the several valleys which intersect the mountain chain. The valleys of the Karamea, the Buller, and the Grrey, are the largest, and contain respectively about 10,000, 30,000, and 50,000 acres of fertile land, chiefly wooded. Towards the head of these and the parallel valleys the country, though rough and broken, is adapted for pas- turage. From the head of the Grey, according to native report, there is a communication with the Port Cooper Plains. Along the western portion of the northern boun- dary of the province formed by Cook’s Straits, is Massacre Bay, containing about 60,000 acres of level, or slightly undulating land, much of it, especially in the Aorere, Ta- kaka, and Motupipi districts, of most fertile character, the soil on the banks of the rivers of the same name being allu- vial, in many places covered with heavy timber of the most valuable kinds. Good anchorage for vessels of all sizes is found at the Tata Islands, and small vessels can lie at the mouth of the Motupipi, and Pakawau rivers. Coal has been found in various places in these districts, and at Pa- kawau and Motupipi it is regularly worked for domestic purposes and for the use of steamers. Limestone of very superior quality abounds at the Tata Islands, where it is easily conveyed away, and in the mountain range separa- ting Massacre Bay from Blind Bay. At the southern extremity of the latter bay the town of Nelson is situated, where, and in the adjoining districts of the Waimea, Mou- tere, Motueka, and the smaller valleys bordering the bay, enjoying a delicious climate, the principal amount of the population of the province is settled. Here flourishing and productive farms, yearly increasing in number and ex- tent, are fast taking the place of the natural wilderness, NELSON. 299 and considerable quantities of surplus produee have for some years been exported thence to the neighboring colonies. A few miles from the town of Nelson is the Dun Mountain, where rich specimens of copper ore crop out on the surface, to work which a company has been formed and a prelimi- nary staff of miners introduced from England. Copper ore also exists in the hills in the neighborhood of the bay. ‘‘ Inland, the valleys of the upper Motueka, Motupiko, and Lake Arthur districts, have long been occupied as stock runs. Eastward from Blind Bay, Port Hardy in D’Urville’s Island, the Pelorus at the south end of Admiralty Baj^, Port Gore, Queen Charlotte’s Sound, and Port Underwood, all opening from the Straits, present with their numerous ramifications a continuous succession of noble harbors of great size, unrivalled for accessibility and safety. These harbors are surrounded by hills and mountain ranges, which are the spurs, modified in height, of the great central range, which, except where broken by various valleys and gorges, extends the whole length of the middle island from Cook’s Straits to those of Eoveaux. In many places, however, in the vicinity of the harbors, especially at the head of the Pelorus, and at the south west extremity of Queen Charlotte’s Sound, are blocks of fertile land, the more valuable from the facility of access afforded by the deep bays along which they lie. On the south east side of Queen Charlotte’s Sound, is the harbor of Waitohi, or Newton Bay, where a township has been laid out as a port for the Wairau and Awatere, to which districts a road through a nearly level wooded valley of about twelve miles in length is now being formed by the local government. ^‘The plains and tributary valleys of the Wairau and Awatere, contain about 200,000 acres of land, and are bounded by the prolonged spurs of the Kaikora mountains and the central chain, which towards the- coast sink into 300 NEW ZEALAND. low rounded hills, gradually rising thence as they extend southward. Both lower and higher hills are covered with rich natural pasture, and may contain about 400,000 acres occupied as stock runs, where already about 200,000 sheep, and from 8,000 to 9,000 cattle are depastured. From the Wairau and Awatere respectively, two passes (discovered by Mr. Weld,) through the mountain ranges admit of a communication with the Port Cooper Plains ; — one by the head of the Awatere over ‘ Bearfell’s Pass,’ and crossing the valleys of the Acheron and the Clarence rivers, leads to the Wai-au-ua plain; the other along the Wairau by ‘ Turndale,’ and thence to the Clarence, where it joins the former line. Both routes are easily traversed by stock, and when a track has been cut through about nine miles of comparatively open wood, the journey between the towns of JN’elson and Christchurch may he made on horseback in four or five days. “ From the southern base of the Kaikoras to the Hurunui, which here forms the southern boundary of the province, is a tract of about 350,000 acres, within the limits of which are the Wai-au-ua and Hurunui plains, divided and sur- rounded by hills and mountains of more or less height. Much of the level portion of this country is fitted for tillage, while all of it, hills and plains alike, is covered naturally with grass, and is fast being occupied by stock. ‘‘By the Census Eeturns for 1854 the population of the province amounted to 5,858 souls, of whom 3,186 were males, and 2,672 females. By the Returns of Immigration and Births, since the above were taken, upwards of 1000 souls have been added to the population, which thus amounts to about 7000 souls. “The Agricultural Returns for 1854 showed 16,538 acres fenced ; of which there were, besides other crops, in wheat, 2378 acres; oats, 1738 acres; barley, 809 acres; potatoes, 460 acres ; garden and orchards, 514 acres. NELSOK. 301 ‘‘The Returns of Stoek at the same period were as follows: — horses, 1190; horned cattle, 10,559; sheep, 183,231 ; pigs, 4401 ; goats, 3005 ; mules, 10. “ Appropriation out of the revenue of the province £32,933 6s. 7d. for the service of the year, viz — £6,392 2s. 4d. for the charge of the civil government, and £26,541 14s. 3d, for public purposes.’’ From the performances of the ‘‘ Nelson Amateur Musical Society^^ the public derive so much plea* sure and intellectual enjoyment, that in sketching the social habits and tastes of the settlers in a colony where entertainment of a superior order is but seldom found, it may not be out of place to mention, that at present no other part of New Zealand can boast of a body of gentlemen who possess, or at least display a tithe of the musical talent which the members of the class in question are masters of. Mr. Bonnington, their able com- poser and leader, is himself one of the most talented musicians, while he is certainly one of the most modest and unassuming men in the colony ; and it is gratifying to know that the musical concord of sweet sounds, dispensed by the leader and his amateur friends for the delight of others, is symbolical of the social harmony by which the gentlemen of the society are themselves united. One or two of the most pleasant evenings we passed in New Zealand were those which were enlivened by dulcet strains from the agreeable and talented performances of the “Nelson Amateur Musical Society. 302 NEW ZEALAND. In bringing our remarks on the province to a close, we have only now to tender our warmest thanks to those gentlemen who kindly aided the prosecution of our work and rendered us other valuable assistance. To Doctor and Mrs. Renwick for affording us every facility for visiting as many parts of the interior as our limited stay enabled us to take advantage of, our grateful thanks are due. But for other individual acts of kindness and generosity, surpassing any within our ex- perience as travellers, a private acknowledgment would be more suitable than a public one. And should we, at some future period, re-visit New Zealand — an event by no means improbable — for the purpose of recording the vast changes and improvements which a few years cannot fad to effect in her social, political, and commercial posi- tion, we should endeavour to prolong our stay in the Torquay, or model town, of the Antipodes — Nelson. THE MINERAL RICHES OF NEW ZEALAND. Gold, copper and other minerals have at pre- sent been found in New Zealand only in small quantities, and in particular localities. The search has hitherto been partial, and may account for the absence of more general and important informa- tion on a subject which we have reason to believe NELSON. 803 will determine tlie future commercial position of the colony. Mineral treasures have not yet been secured here in large quantities — each discovery, for reasons hereafter assigned, having been post- poned or abandoned almost as soon as made. In the like manner gold was previously found, and the discovery for a time neglected, in another region in the South Pacific. The fruitful working of the Californian mines, however, changed Aus- tralian apathy into action. In one of her Majesty’s (then) comparatively unknown dependencies, a small but spirited band of adventurers was induced to prosecute, within the bowels of the earth, a search for the material portions of that treasure which had only been found in small quantities near the surface. The success of the enterprise soon became generally known. But the extraordinary com- mercial results to which the knowledge of the first and subsequent successes have given birth are already matters of history. The heads may be given in a few words. In the brief space of six years about 300,000 human beings, chiefly from Great Britain, have been attracted to the colony of Victoria, in Aus- tralia. The magnet of attraction has been, as all the world knows, — gold. The effect of this, the greatest social event of modern times, has been truly wonderful. At the antipodes of England cities and towns have sprung up where none pre- viously existed ; and these cities and towns have 304 NEW ZEALAND. been peopled by European (chiefly British) sub- jects. In exchange for each ton weight of gold, received by the mother country, the colonial off- spring has annually taken hundreds of tons of merchandise. In this manner, and in the space of time previously named — six years — England has received of the precious metal nearly £60,000,000 sterling, in or for a corresponding return of mer- chandise. So far as it goes, the following Table (compiled by Mr. Westgarth) will show the com- parative yield of gold, and the extent of mercantile demand arising therefrom, of the two great gold producing countries, California and Victoria : — Comparative Table of the product of Gold, Shipping Inwards, and Population of California and Victoria. < Gold Product. Shipping Inwards. Population. California. Victoria. California. Victoria. Califor. Victoria Tons. .Tons, Tons. Tons. Number. Number. 1848 £11,700 1849 1,600,000 1850 5,000,000 1851 8,000,000 £1,208,011 669 126,411 1852 11,200,000 14,866,799 1003 445,014 1657 408,216 118,627 1853 12,600,000 11,588,782 1028 555,794 2594 721,473 329,‘500 198,496 1854 13,600,000 8,770,796 358* 226,674* 2596 794,604 273,865 1855 11,856,292 731* 206,160* 1897 549,376 319,245 • For the first six months only. Of the important benefits derived and still likely to be derived by England and America through the commercial expanse indicated by the above figures we will not speak, as the figures speak for themselves. A chapter either on Aus- tralia or California would at present be out of f KELSON. 305 place. A simple reference to the rapid growth of these national dependencies, rather than to the value of the fruit arising therefrom, will he suffi- cient to illustrate our subject. And what other event of modern times would enable us to deal with realities whose vast proportions invest them with so fabulous an appearance. Jointly, Victoria and California may at the present time boast of a population of about one million. In that vast number there could not probably be found ten thousand persons who, ten years since, were fami- liar, even by report, with the respective regions they now inhabit. In the ordinary course of things, and without the aid of that great magnet of attraction which is decried by many yet wor- shipped by most, centuries would be required by new countries and colonies to accomplish, commer- cially, what has been achieved by California and Victoria in the brief space of a few years. By these comparatively new but mighty settlements the usual work of an age has been performed in a shorter space of time than is sometimes devoted to a youth’s apprenticeship. Still, in this, as in all great or more gradual undertakings, one particular appliance has been found indispensable ; and the rapid attainment of Californian and Victorian greatness may be traced to the additional appli- cation of that great vital power — labor. Without a supply of labor the golden countries would at this moment have been in a comparative state of X 306 NEW ZEALAND. insignificance ; and, without the gold discoveries, that labor would have still been wanting. This touches at once on the leading question with regard to the colony more immediately under consideration. In New Zealand gold and other minerals have occasionally been, and still are found ; but the want of labor has hitherto prevented anything like a systematic, or, indeed, more than a tem- porary prosecution of such discoveries. Until the supply of labor be sufficient to determine the pro- bable value of her mineral resources, the simple question whether the colony will or will not become a great gold producing country must necessarily remain a matter for speculation. Pre- suming, however, the extravagant prophecies or gloomy forebodings of strangers to be somewhat more speculative than an opinion foimded on the personal experience of those who have just re- turned from the colony, we may venture a few words, rather from our own knowledge of the past and present, than from vain predictions, either with regard to golden harvests or blighted hopes of the future. Founded on ocular demonstration in the country, and confirmed by advices just received, our humble opinion prompts us to declare that gold and other minerals are to be found not only in one but in many parts of New Zealand — although the province of Nelson is the only one in which professional mining operations have at NELSON. 307 present commenced. The copper on the Dun Mountain, within nine miles of Nelson, is declared to be of the very best description, and promises a remunerative return for the investment of the for- tunate individuals to whom the property belongs, as also to any future body of shareholders who may turn such valuable property to the best account. However great may be the temporary successes or failures of a few individuals, or of a few hundreds, who dig to the extent of two or three feet and then abandon the search for other employment, we shall still indulge the belief that the mineral riches of New Zealand will ultimately prove of immeasurable value. Until the country has been scientifically and systematically explored, and the value of the mineral discoveries properly tested, there will continue to be, as there now exists, a variety of conflicting opinions on the subject. Until the test has been applied, which can alone dispel speculation, our own opinion will remain unchanged. But when, or in what manner, will the problem be solved ? The manner of ap- plying the test is well known ; but the only power by which the application can be made is wanting. What is that power ? Not capital ; yet at the same time the great and only capital required for the undertaking — labor. At present, the entire population of the colony will not number more than about one-half the inhabitants located on a single gold field in Victoria, while the laboring 308 NEW ZEALAND. portion is not a tithe of what is required for agri- cultural or domestic purposes. Male servants, who can readily obtain 10s. or 12s. a day for a few hours easy employment, find a more agreeable way of making gold than by digging for it ; and the settlers themselves, who at present make plenty of money by sending their vegetable productions to other golden regions, appear somewhat indifferent about obtaining a market and a return for their produce nearer home. With a little reflection, this indifference would surely disappear; for, as the time is already passed when some of the New Zealand provinces required assistance from others, the time will soon come when Australia will yield, in abundance, vegetable food for her population — be the increase of that population what it may. Socially, the presence of large numbers of gold diggers, with their attendant vices, may not add to the respectability of the (now) respectable inha- bitants of New Zealand ; but rich gold fields, with the appliance necessary to their immediate deve- lopment, would (commercially) make the colony, in a few years, what, with or without other than her ‘agricultural and pastoral gold fields, she ulti- mately will be — the Great Britain of the southern hemisphere.^’ But either in the rapid or gradual progress to that end, a large or moderate supply of labor is needed. Without the application of an extensive supply of labor, mineral treasures will remain concealed, even though their hiding places NELSON. 309 be discovered ; and without a moderate supply of labor, the more homely fruits of agriculture will be neglected, or will at least fail to extend and multiply. Whether, therefore, the mineral trea- sures of New Zealand be great or little — confined to particular localities, or extending to all — labor is still wanted, and is, indeed, the great and almost only want of the colony. Beyond this fact, there remains but one question — how is that labor to be supplied? We direct attention to the want, but cannot ourselves furnish it. The English press, however — capable of great things because worthy of great things — by calling public attention to the subject, may accomplish on an extended scale what we can only perform on a limited one. By the aid of the press the golden region of Victoria was first peopled ; and by the same aid the still more golden region, because more favored climate of New Zealand may be populated. It requires some such power to direct the tide of emigration towards this comparatively unknown but incom- parable colony. But any human power that may ultimately turn the tide in this direction will, if we mistake not, subsequently find itself powerless in stopping it. Labor is the only capital required by New Zealand. Assist her to this, and the boon will not remain unrequited, although your assist- ance will no longer be needed. 310 KEW ZEALAND. BLACK BALL LIKE OF PACKETS FEOM LIVERPOOL TO KEW ZEALAND. Liverpool merchants appear to be living types of a progressive age. They are owners not only of a fine fieet of ships, but also of a most enter- prising spirit; and if not actually in advance of the requirements of the time, they will assuredly not be found much in the rear. Certain lethargic old members of a fieeting class, who regard every innovation on ancient forms or exploded principles as a retrogade movement, may possibly view with amazement and horror these modern spirits of express,^’ and may condemn them as daring shoots of the fast, or Manchester school. Well; be the school in which they were tutored what it may, the graduates, by assisting to develop the resources of other countries, have tended in no small degree to the commercial advancement of their own. As pioneers, these gentlemen, with their fioating palaces, have played an important part in conveying to the rich valleys and creeks of Victoria the innumerable actors who now figure on that golden region ; and the announcement embodied at the head of these remarks is a visible sign that these same Liverpool merchants will not NELSON. 311 direct the spirit of their enterprise exclusively to the supply of labor for one colony, when another cries aloud for aid. Let us, • at least, hope that their own success has been, and may continue to be, equal to their desert. In leading countless debutants across their boards, as a preliminary step to fortune, the conductors or promoters of the movement deserve to be, if they have not been, suitably rewarded. Acting for one of the Provincial Governments of New Zealand, the respectable firm of Gladstone, Morrison and Co., of London, have made arrange- ments with James Baines and Co. for the convey- ance of one thousand emigrants. But we can state, on the best authority, that J ames Baines and Co ., will continue to start (monthly) first class ships to all or nearly all the New Zealand settlements. Such a movement has been long wanted, and the want severely felt by the colony. Hitherto there has been no regular line, or rather no regular time of starting ships from England. Such or such a vessel is advertised to leave about such or such a date — which is no date at all. If the announcement has any definite meaning, it means when the vessel is full, or when the time of her departure may suit the convenience of the owners. To expatiate on the' delay and uncertainty arising from this vicious system will be unnecessary, as the inconvenience thus caused both to shippers and passengers must be obvious. 312 NEW ZEALAND. James Baines and Co. are about to remedy tbe evil, as tbe regularity of tbeir line will insure either punctuality or commercial extinction else- where. Note. — For the benefit of intending emigrants, we intended to have given a statistical and detailed account of the rise and pro- gress of the interesting province of Nelson ; but in this, as in other provinces of New Zealand, we unfortunately trusted for local information to the volunteered services of others, instead of gleaning from various sources any scattered fragments of evidence for ourselves. The postal arrangements, however, between England and New Zealand are neither so expeditious nor so safe as to in- duce us to conclude, by the non-arrival of the expected papers, that such papers have not been sent. As there is room for doubt on the subject, our respected volunteers, rather than our readers, shall have the benefit of it. WELLINGTON, The province of Wellington has been so ably described, and the statistics of the settlement so recently compiled — although with a little of that partiality peculiar to this part of the colony — ^by a local government ofScial, that, with the publica- tion in this work of the leading features of the account, our own remarks will be few and brief : for while it would be impossible for us to furnish a more favorable picture of the province than the one in question, it will merely be necessary, for the information of our readers, to supply that sketch with one or two rather important omissions. In a court of justice, an impartial judge may sometimes be heard informing a timid or reluc- tant witness that he is not bound to commit or criminate himself. In this respect, nations and provinces are no doubt entitled to a privilege possessed by the humblest of their citizens. It is therefere only right to suppose that the Wellington historian, whose account we shall publish, fairly 314 NEW ZEALAND. recorded the feelings and wishes of the community, by remaining silent on a subject the proclamation of which would have been regarded by the inha- bitants of the town as a serious crime. And by such an error the public commissioner would have abused his trust and misrepresented his consti- tuents, by saying too much, and by truly repre- senting the city instead of the citizens. On the subject under consideration, the employe performed his part with more discretion, if not with greater fairness than the employer. While the former remained silent on a disaster, the discussion of which might have proved injurious to the interests of the province, the latter gave publicity to the matter in a way which, if not intended, was certainly calculated not only to deceive strangers, but also to benefit Wellington at the expense of her neighbours, by leading foreigners to suppose the entire colony of New Zealand to be the victim of a periodical local disease, which, in reality, only seriously affects the province of Wellington. Wellington is, and has been subject to severe shocks of earthquake, which occur with more or less severity at intervals of six or seven years. Slight shocks are frequently felt ; and during our stay of six weeks in the province we experienced several of these gentle vibrations which, beyond a feeble or tremulous motion of the earth, in some instances scarcely perceptible, produce neither per- WELLINGTON. 315 sonal inconvenience nor alarm. We believe that life and even personal property would have been secure from the effects of the severest of these convulsions, if proper precaution had been adopted in erecting wooden instead of brick houses ; for although the majority are built of the lighter material, it is only in the latter where the loss has been severely felt. The last severe shock, which took place on the 23rd of January, 1855, destroyed property in the town to the amount of £20,000. The original proprietor and landlord of the hotel at which we were located during our stay in Wel- lington was we believe the only life lost on this occasion, although one or two persons of delicate health subsequently died of fright arising from the effects of the shock. Between this and the preceding earthquake of any serious importance there was an interval of about seven years, the previous one having taken place in 1848. Patent as the foregoing facts are to every person in New Zealand, it being well known that the pro- vince of Wellington is the only one in the colony seriously affected by these convulsions of the earth, the leading men of the place, in their pub- lished manifestos, modestly admit that ‘‘ New Zealand is subject to periodical or occasional shocks of earthquake — thereby leading foreigners •to suppose the colony and all parts thereof to be equally liable to the visitation, although, in reality, the other five settlements are as free from the 316 NEW ZEALAND. danger as Greenwich or Gravesend. It is for the purpose of correcting a false impression in the minds of some of our English friends that our duty enforces a prominent notice of the subject. Unfortunately, it is not on this subject only, but on nearly every other, that the great mm of Wel- lington, either by attempting to disguise a bad position or by assuming a false one, provoke the merited censure of their neighbours ; while, by ill-feeling and want of unity amongst themselves, they do more than their worst enemies could effect to retard the advancement and prosperity of their own province. In little, as in great things, the Wellingtonians find it impossible to conceal their proverbial desire to benefit themselves at the expense of their bro- ther colonists. As one case out of many, we may instance the production of a local work from which that able description of the province, which will herein appear, was extracted. The work is named or rather misnamed The New Zealand Alma- nack ; and any one unacquainted with the country would, on looking over the book, reason- ably pronounce Wellington the metropolis of the colony. While, as may be seen by the extract, no point is left untouched which could place more prominently before the public the leading features of this province ; and while the work gives a brief review of three other settlements — Auckland, the seat of government, and the capital of the colony, WELLINGTON. 317 and Taranaki, are thrown overboard altogether. Beyond giving the names of the oflScials, not a word is said about either of those provinces. Our readers can only imagine a parallel case, by sup- posing a work issued at St. Alban’s, or some other third-rate town, entitled The English Almanack and Gazetteer,” giving a lengthy description of the town in which it is published, and a few others, but leaving London and Greenwich en- tirely out of the question. The elements of respectable society are not wanting in this province, but those elements are divided and subdivided by so many under currents of envy, hatred, and malice,” that it would be next to impossible to find in any given number of the inhabitants that gentle concord and unity of action of which the atmosphere of good society and the key to social harmony are composed. The local press, which comprises a couple of news- papers, may be pronounced the worst conducted in the colony. Indeed the press and the acrimony of the people are typical of each other, while both are as bad as anything in a civilised country can be. The military, their friends, and a select few, are the only exceptions to the cross-grained group. Apart from the terrestrial and social drawbacks we have enumerated, the province of Wellington shares in an equal degree the advantages of the other settlements. She possesses more and finer land than can be found in the province of Auck- 318 NEW ZEALAND. land ; and although not to be compared with the last-named settlement in a commercial point of view, her imports and exports are considerable ; and her laborers, mechanics, merchants, and land- owners, make as much money as that made by the inhabitants of any other part of the colony. The following account will enable our readers to form a tolerably correct idea of the extent and resources of the province : — ‘‘Wellington was founded in January, 1840, the first emigrant ship, the Aurora, having arrived on the 22nd of that month. It was the first settlement in New Zealand. “ Port Nicholson, as fine a harbor as any in the world, and the most central in New Zealand, was most judiciously chosen as the site of the settlement; judiciously not so much with a view to immediate progress, as to its ultimate importance among the settlements of the colony. The neighborhood of the harbor is rugged, and heavily tim- bered, affording, except in detached valleys (of which the Hutt is the largest and best) little land suitable for either agriculture or pasture. But at the distance of about forty miles on the N. E., and sixty miles on the N. W., com- mence some of the finest districts for both purposes in the whole colony; the Wairarapa valley extending from the head of Palliser Bay for sixty miles inland, and thence by a series of fertile plains to Hawke’s Bay and the boundaries of the Taupo country, some one hundred and fifty miles further in the first direction ; the Manawatu, Banghitikei, and Wanganui districts in the other, offer as fine fields for settlement as any that human industry has ever reclaimed. Port Nicholson is the commercial depot for these vast dis- tricts of many million acres of fertile land, with a coast WELLINGTON. 319 line of full four hundred miles. Its advantageous position in reference to the other settlements of the colony is appa- rent on a glance at the map, Its rapidly increasing revenue, imports, and exports, prove the impression which is being made on its back country, and foreshadow a future greatness for its commercial enterprise which will pro- bably not he surpassed by that of any other port in the colony. “The subsidiary settlement of Wanganui, within the province of Wellington, is fast growing into importance. “Its fine river, navigable for good sized brigs and schooners, fiowing through a tract of unbounded fertility, and now being connected with other districts of equal goodness, such as the Eanghitikei and Manawatu, by a government road, has already drawn a considerable popula- tion to it. The Wairarapa valley is fully occupied with sheep and cattle stations, and two small farm settlements have been established in this district, pioneers of the agri- cultural future of the valley. At Hawke’s Bay, sheep stations are being rapidly formed, and the port town of Napier cannot fail before long to become a place of con- siderable importance “As regards the Provincial Government of Wellington, everything has worked smoothly and well under the new Constitution. I. E. Featherston, Esq., M.D., who had earned the confidence of the public by a long and consistent political career, was elected Superintendent in July, 1853, without opposition. The elections for the Provincial Councils were held in August. On meeting the Council (which assembled on the 28th October), his Honor the Superintendent avowed his intention of adopting the prin- ciple of Besponsible Government, and the gentlemen whom he appointed to his Executive Council were forthwith sent back to their constituents for re-election. The success of the experiment is admitted by all (even by those who 320 NEW ZEALAND. originally opposed it) to have been complete, and to have established beyond a doubt the feasibility of working the machinery of Government on the responsible principle in any community however small. The legislation of the Council was generally of a useful and practical character, and only one measure (the Super- intendent’s Absence Act) was vetoed by the officer ad- ministering the Government. To Wellington and to its first Superintendent vdll belong the credit in the history of the colony of having been the first to establish the principle of Ministerial Responsibility. The Council was prorogued on the 17th of February to meet again on the 21st of November, 1854. “No better test of the efficiency of the free institutions bestowed on the colony can be appealed to than the expen- diture of the revenue. To take 1849 and about the middle of Governor Grey’s administration, as a fair average year, it appears that in the northern province, with an estimated revenue of £30,000, no less than £28,000 was appropriated to official departments ; only the contemptible balance of £2,000 being expended on public works or undertakings, and nothing whatever on immigration. Under the new Constitution the provincial revenue of Auckland for 1854, was estimated at £28,000, of which no less than £13,000 was appropriated to public works. In the Southern Pro- vince in 1849, the revenue was estimated at £28,000, of which all but £4,019 was expended on official depart- ments. The provincial revenue of Wellington for 1854, under the new Constitution, was estimated at £18,000, and of this £8,950 was appropriated to public works and undertakings ; and the revenue having greatly exceeded the estimates, nearly two-thirds of its amount have actually been expended on public works, or reserved to pay for the passages of assisted emigrants, of whom 280 have been sent for. During the latter years of absolute government all WELLINGTON. 321 public works bad ceased, or all but ceased in tbe colony. In the Wellington province alone, during last year, upwards of eleven miles of road, chiefly metalled, and for carriages were constructed; so forcible is the contrast between the results of self-government and colonial office rule. ” STATISTICS. “The following statistical information relative to the province of Wellington has been collected in part from the Census Returns of the province for the year 1855, as pub- lished, by direction of his honor the Superintendent, in the “Provincial Gazette” of the 26th September, 1855; and in part from other official documents to which the writer has been enabled to obtain access. POPULATIOl^^. “ The total European population of the province of Wellington, exclusive of the military and their families, amounted, at the commencement of the present year, to 8,124 souls ; of whom 4,504 were males, and 3,620 females. In 1845, flve years after the foundation of the settlement, the total population was 4,383 ; in the next flve years it increased to 5,911 ; so that the population is now nearly double what it was in 1845, and nearly flfty per cent, higher than it was in 1850 ; the last flve years having made an addition to the population of 2,213 souls. AGRICULTURE. “In 1845 there were under crop in the several districts in the settlement 1,244 acres ; in 1850 the number had Y 322 NEW ZEALAND. increased to 4,504J acres; and in 1855 to 10,530* acres. We gather from this, that the amount of cultivated land in the province is more than double what it was in 1850 ; and as the price of agricultural produce has, in that period, doubled also, the market value of the agricultural produce of the province has been multiplied fourfold. The two small farm settlements, situate in the Valley of the Waira- rapa, and distant about sixty miles from Wellington, are progressing favorably; and when the high road is completed to them, which it is fully expected will be the case in the course of the present summer, the agricultural wealth of those districts, and,, in consequence, of the province, will be rapidly augmented. Under the amended land regulations, which are now in force, ample and suitable reserves for the sites of agricultural and small farm settlements are to be made in every district, before the lands in such districts are thrown open to general purchase ; and whenever any reserve has been made for the site of a small farm settlement, a block of the adjacent land, to the extent of one third of the reserve will be annexed to it as common land, upon which, as well as upon all unsold lands within the reserve, every resident occupier will have a right of pasturage for a limited period. The lands of the province will continue to be disposed of at the price of 10s. per acre ; but no land in these reserved blocks is to be sold until it has been accu- rately surveyed, allotted, and mapped. Any individual is competent to purchase as small a quantity as forty acres ; and no allotment is to exceed 320 acres, or half a square mile in extent. The great drawback to the agricultural progress of the province, is the want of roads to convey the produce to market; but as these are now in rapid process of formation, and as Wellington furnishes a good market for all the productions of the soil, there can be no doubt but that the agriculture of the province will be ere long greatly extended. WELLINGTON. 323 STOCK. “ In 1845 the total number of sheep in the settlement of Wellington was 12,002; in 1850 this number had increased to 42,652; and in 1855, the Eeturns give a total of 193,701 ; though there is reason to believe that this number has been considerably under-estimated. The Eeturns of Kelson, pre- vious to those of the present year, always shewed that that province, in comparison with all others, possessed the- largest number of sheep ; hut a reference to the Eeturns for the year 1855, of the number of sheep in the provinces of Kel- son and Wellington respectively, will shew that there are in the latter province 10,380 more sheep than in that of the former. In 1845, the number of horned cattle in this province was 2,298 ; in 1850 they had increased to 8,068 ; and in 1855 to 18,400. The Kelson Eeturns give 10,599 cattle for the year 1855 ; hut it will he seen that there are in this province nearly 8,000 more cattle than there are in that of Kelson. In 1845 Wellington possessed 260 horses; in 1850 they had increased to 909 ; and in 1855 the Euro- peans owned 1,608, exclusive of a very large number be- longing to Maories. In 1845 the total live stock in the Wellington settlement amounted to 15,125; in 1850 to 52,828 ; in 1855 the total live stock belonging to Europeans alone amounted to 220,134, or exclusive of pigs, to 215,987. By far the largest number of sheep are in the Hawke’s Bay and Wairarapa districts; there being in the former 80,869, and in the latter 74,373. The Wairarapa and Wanganui- Eanghitikei districts possess the largest number of horned cattle. The Hutt and Wanganui the largest number of horses. 324 NEW ZEALAND. ELECTOEAL DISTEICTS. The following table shows the total population, the resi- dent qualified voters, the amount of live stock, and the quantity of land under crop in the five electoral districts of the province. Electoral District. Total popula- tion. Residents entitled to the franchise. Live stock. Land under crop. Wellington City 3208 580 1,799 245J Wellington Country dis- trict 1216 238 20,390 4308i W anganui-Eanghitikei do 1057 183 25,582 2039i Hutt do 1625 347 8,858 3555| Wairarapa and Hawke’s Bay 1008 230 165,305 401| Total 8124 1578 221,934 10,550i ‘ ‘ The total number of voters on the Electoral Eoll of the province amounts to 1858 ; the total number which appears on the printed roll for the year 1855-6 is 1896; hut a num- ber of persons whose names appear on the printed roll are either dead or have left the province. The difierence be- tween the number of persons resident in the several districts who are entitled to the franchise, and the number on the Electoral Eoll, is owing in a great measure to one person in many cases being registered for several districts. The number of persons, however, who really possess the re- quisite qualification is much larger than is shewn by the above returns. WELLINGTON. 325 IMMIGRATION. The Harbor Master’s Returns for the year 1854 give an excess of Immigration over Emigration of 523 souls. Nearly 500 persons were introduced into the province in the beginning of the year 1855, by the Provincial Gov- ernment, partly under the loan, and partly under the bounty system. In the year 1854, 319 souls arrived at the port of Wellington from Great Britain, and 697 from Aus- tralia. The total number of Immigrants in 1854 was 1055; but owing to the arrangements made by the Provincial Gov- ernment, there is reason to believe that the number this year will be much greater. EDUCATION. The Returns give 2153 of the population as unable to read; 1176 who can read only; and 4705 who can read and write ; but there can be no doubt that the number of this latter class has been considerably over-estimated. The total number unable to write is 3329, from which, if we deduct the population under seven years of age — 1998 — the total number above seven who are unable to write will be 1331 ; but this will be below the real amount by the number under seven who are able both to read and write. There is too much reason to fear, unless the Government vigorously takes up the matter, and meets in its efforts with the co-operation of the settlers, that while the returns will annually exhibit an enormous increase in the resources and material wealth of the province, the education of the people, and the educational establishments of the province, will be left miserably in the rear. 326 NEW ZEALAND. EXPOUTS. “ The province of Wellington can now boast of three ports of entry, viz. — Wellington, Wanganui, and Xapier. The following returns of exports of New Zealand produce are from the port of Wellington only, the approximate value of which last year was £78,494 2s. 6d. The wool exported from Wellington in the year 1854, was 622,3841hs., valued at £38,447 2s. lOd ; potatoes, 1242 tons, valued at £13,645 19s. ; sawn timber, 734,249 feet, valued at £4,734 5s.; flour. 111 tons, 9 cwt., valued at £3,617; butter, 70,262lbs., valued at £4,992 Os. 2d. ; oil, 46 J tuns, valued at £2,496 ; oats, 6454 bushels, valued at £2,652 16s. ; rope and cordage, 47 tons, 16 cwt, valued at £2,664 15s. ; and cheese, valued at £694 2s. 8d. The total estimated value of the exports from the pro- vince of Wellington in the year 1854, amounted to £83,547 2s. 5d. The total shipping entered outwards at the port of Wellington last year, amounted to sixty- three, of 15,021 tons, and 757 men. The far greater portion of the exports of Wellington are sent either to Sydney or Melbourne. Even in the article of wool little more than one third is sent from that port direct to London. The value of the exports of Wellington is now four times greater than it was in 1848. THE LAND. The amount of the available land of the province, over which the native title has been already extinguished, may he estimated, in round numbers, at 3,000,000 acres; of which, in round numbers, 300,000 acres have been aliena- ted; leaving 2,700,000 acres now available for pasturage WELLINGTON. 327 or agriculture. Under the original scheme of the Com- pany, 120,900 acres of land were sold at Wellington and Wanganui, of which 92,900 acres were bought by absentees, and only 28,000 acres by residents. Scrip, in 1853, had been issued to absentees to the amount of 47,000 acres, and to residents to the amount of 46,000 acres. From June 1847, to the 4th March, 1853, there was scarcely any land disposed of in the province either by the company or the Crown. Since the new land regulations came into opera- tion, which reduced the price to 10s. an acre, viz. — from the 4th March, 1853, to the 31st December, 1854, the total quantity of Crown lands sold amounted to 119,726J acres. That is, in the Wellington district 13,277f acres were sold. At Wanganui, 19,009f. At Kanghitikei and Turakina 34,355. In the Wairarapa and East Coast 32,234, exclu- sive of that sold by the Land Commissioner in the Hawke’s Bay district. In these sales nearly £50,000 worth of scrip, representing 50,000 acres, were absorbed; and £38,793 received in cash by the Crown Land Commissioner. BEYENUE AND EXPENDITUBE. The revenues of the province consist of Customs’ Beceipts, of the proceeds of the Land Sales, and of the in- cidental receipts, such as Licenses, Fees, &c., &c. Of the revenue derived from the two first mentioned sources the General and Provincial Governments each, under ex- isting arrangements, receives half ; the receipts from all other sources of revenue are paid into the provincial chest. The gross customs’ receipts of the year 1855 may be esti- mated, in round numbers, at £30,000. The net customs’ receipts were estimated by the Provincial Government at that amount ; but the high prices which have been obtained for bread, meat, and fuel, and the other chief necessaries of 328 NEW ZEALAND. life, have diminished the funds which would have been otherwise expended in the purchase of duty paying articles. The total ordinary revenue of the province for the year 1855 will most probably amount to £30,000, and the ter- ritorial revenue to £8,000 ; the total income of the pro- vince for the year 1855 will thus be £38,000. The civil expenditure of the province for the current year will amount to about £12,000; leaving £26,000, or more than two- thirds of the whole revenue of the province, to be expended on immigration, roads, bridges, and other works of public utility.’’ There is stationed in Wellington a considerable de- tachment of H.M. 65th Eegiment. The presence of this fine body of men (with an excellent band) occasionally en- liven an otherwise exceedingly dull and uninteresting town. Note. — To Mr. James Gray, of Melbourne, who has made him- self acquainted with most parts of New Zealand, and who is the owner of no inconsiderable portion of land in the colony, we were indebted for a graphic and highly interesting sketch of Wanganui, the finest and most flourishing district in the Wellington province. But, by the unaccountable loss or absence of that paper, (with others) we are prevented for the present from placing the details before our readers. CANTERBIJEY. Had we to name one of the divisions of New Zealand in which to fix on some spot for our future home — next to Nelson, and as a settlement whose rapid and fruitful growth gives promise of early greatness, we should select the province of Canterbury. The progress made here since the foundation of the settlement (about six years since) is truly sur- prising. In the infant stage of a settlement, and in the early development of rising importance, as an agricultural and pastoral district, no other part of the colony has displayed greater foresight, intelligence, and vigour, than Canterbury. Pro- bably neither of the other settlements, on their formation, could boast of similar advantages with regard to capital, &c. At the same time, Canter- bury has turned every point in her favor to the best account ; and, like her well-educated and intelligent sons, she promises at no distant period to obtain and dispense some of those substantial 330 NEW ZEALAND. prizes peculiar to the colony, which will enable her children to cultivate elsewhere, if not here, that flower of the mind that may lead to fruitful prizes of a still higher order. Lyttleton, which takes its name from its excel- lent harbor, is the seaport or commercial town of Canterbury, while Christchurch, the capital of the province, which is separated by a lofty range of hills, and at a distance of about seven miles from the port, is at present the chief or only town in an agricultural district, which altogether contains about 4,000,000 of acres, two-thirds of which are immediately available for agricultural and pastoral purposes. Canterbury plains, in extent, differ from any other part of New Zealand. They comprise about 3,000,000 acres of level or nearly level land, nearly the whole of which is of the very best description. The plain is about 130 miles in length, and in some parts 40 miles in width. In 1853 the population of the province numbered about 4,000, and, judging by the increase of 704 immigrants for the year just ended, the population at present may be roughly estimated at six, or between six and seven thousand. But the diffi- culty we experienced in obtaining statistical in- formation from the local authorities, proves a barrier to that exactness at which we have inva- riably endeavoured to arrive. Had we been furnished with information re- CANTEllBURY. 331 spectiiig this province equal to our desire to obtain it, or to the facilities possessed by others for affording it; or had the promised assistance of volunteers reached us before our departure, it would have given us much pleasure in supplying our English friends with a more interesting and minute account of a settlement which, ere long, will rank with any in New Zealand. But on applying to the all-important superintendent of the province for statistical information, his honor majestically observed, — ‘‘ I have not time to give the required information, nor am I in favor of any book on the colony by a stranger ; but if a work were needed on the province of which I am the head, the superintendent himself is the only person qualified for its production.^’ Such observations were not then considered, nor do we now deem them, worthy a reply — beyond wishing the settlers well of one whose persuasive eloquence and refined blarney induced a majority of voters to repose, for a season, an important trust to a no less important individual. Every word in the following interesting account — taken from ‘‘ Chambers’s Papers for the People ” — with reference to the capabilities of the land, &c., in New Zealand, we, from our own personal observations, readily indorse. But without such attestation, the respectable source from whence the account originates is a sufficient guarantee for the truth thereof : — 332 NEW ZEALAND. ‘^The fecundity of tlie earth is wonderful: it springs easily into cultivation. Some small tracts have only a slight layer of mould lying on a rocky, untractahle sub- stratum, but even here the verdure thrives thick and rank. Sandy flats, which in regions less profusely irrigated would be naked and valueless, are here speedily overgrown, while the salt spray of the sea showering upon the green mantle that in some parts overlays the islands to the water’s edge, does it no injury. In this mild and agreeable climate man attains old age without pain, nor is he compelled ever to be on his guard against the influences of the weather. During three-fourths of the year the settler in the neighbourhood of Cook’s Strait may sleep with his bedroom window open ; but when vio- lent winds and showers prevail, a small fire is by no means a superfluous luxury, especially as the colonists’ residences are very often no more than partially wind- and -water- tight. With the exception of these intervals, occupation under the open sky is before all others the most healthy and pleasant. The luxuriant vegetation, the everlasting green ‘of the trees and pastures, the atmosphere so trans- parent that objects can be discerned at an amazing distance, the varying tints of the sky, with the picturesque land- scapes afibrded by the harmonious mingling of hills, plains, lakes, and woods — all these delight the eye, and kindle the animal spirits. Herds and flocks may wander unhoused at all seasons of the year without excess of wet or bitter frosts to injure them. ^ ‘ Every climate of course has its incidental diseases ; and in Hew Zealand the humidity causes sometimes ulcers, boils, abscesses, and eruptive afiections, which, however, never assume a malignant character, and disappear without me- dical aid. Among the natives, from various causes foreign to the climate, carbuncles occur. The Europeans, when acclimatised, may be all but sure of health. Inflammatory CANTERBTJRY. 333 complaints, strictly so called, arc unknown ; they almost always assume, when their symptoms do appear, the form of catarrh. No endemic disease exists. Influenza and croup occasionally appear as epidemics, and with careless people rheumatism is not uncommon. But, on the whole, no country on the earth is more salubrious. We do not find in it, as a traveller has observed, the bilious planter of the East or West Indies, or the aguish settler in the forests and on the river banks of South America. There are no epidemic or endemic fevers, as in the East and West Indies, and parts of the United States ; no ague, no dreary winters, as in Canada ; no hot winds, long droughts, conflagrations, snakes, and vermin, as in Australia. The pure air, conti- nually in motion, invigorates the frame and buoys up the mind. Invalids rapidly recover. The thermal springs in the North Island indeed, with the attractive scenery and delightful atmosphere, present it as a healthy and pictu- resque place of sojourn for those who have worn down their constitution in the dangerous climates of the East. “The value of New Zealand consists rather in its soil, its climate, its position, and its commercial capabilities, than in its natural productions. The indigenous fruits of the earth are few, and not important ; while those that have been introduced render it one of the richest countries in the world. It does not yield, indeed, spices or camphor, or all the luscious delicacies of the Oriental orchard ; but it affords the growths of Europe, and that which will purchase from the neighbouring East every rarity its inhabitants could desire to enjoy. Besides the mineral treasures we have noticed, it contains others most valuable to the Eng- lish settler — abundance of water, timber, coal, lime, and stone of various kinds, the chief materials of industry. The soil is variously distributed over the surface of the country, supporting, as we have already remarked, various classes of indigenous vegetation. On the banks of streams 334 NEW ZEALAND. among tlie hilly tracts, a deep, rich, alluvial mould prevails, and in some of the valleys — that of the Hutt in Wellington District in particular — a pure black or brown sandy loam lies in a stratum so thick as to appear inexhaustible. Wherever dense forests exist, the same soil abounds. T^hen the woods are cleared from parts covered only by a thin layer, this is often washed away by the rains, leaving nothing but a cold, clayey earth fit only for pasturage. To illustrate the efiect, however, of climate or weather upon the soil, it may be mentioned that this, which is spread over the drier, hilly, and undulating districts, when well turned over, and subjected to the influence of the atmosphere, becomes extremely fertile. In other respects the same in- fluence is remarkable. Sandy strips of land, which from their nature would in many other countries remain sterile and naked, are here by the natives planted with potatoes very successfully; stony hills, most impracticable in ap- pearance, flourish with abundant crops of that nutritious vegetable. One great drawback, nevertheless, to the agricultural capabilities of New Zealand is the fact, that even in the richest valleys or plateaus, where the forests have been cleared, the waters wash away the upper soil, laying bare the less liberal clay ; but an improved system of husbandry, with the judicious rotation of crops, the use of proper fer- tilising appliances, and, above all, the careful regulation of the water-flow by drainage, all such inconvenience can be remedied : such at least is the opinion of well- informed residents in the group. Industry can afibrd, however, to be vigorous in its exertions when the soil is so ready to reward it. ‘‘We may now approach the subject of the natural and acquired wealth of the province, and here its peculiar cha- racter should be remembered. We shall find it possessing many of the characteristics which Adam Smith pointed out CANTERHIJllY. 335 with respect to England, and Sir Stamford Ealfles, with modifications, in reference to Java, It is an agricultural, pastoral, and mineral country. First among the productions of the soil we may reckon timber, which in regions destined, as Lord John Eussell once said, to give laws to a great part of the southern hemisphere, deserves to be considered as of great importance. The indigenous trees tower, many of them, to a prodigious height, producing timber in unequalled perfection — some close-grained, heavy, and durable, for domestic and public architecture ; some fit for ship-building ; others hard, light, of fine texture, and elegantly veined for cabinet-work, and others indeed for every variety of purpose : the white, yellow, and red pine — the last with leaves like ostrich plumes ; the totara^ a red- dish wood, with roots that take a beautiful polish ; and many others, not known in Europe, which it would be use- less minutely to describe. Some of the timber-trees bear fruit ; others rich clusters of flowers, like the purple honey- suckle; others leaves like the myrtle, and blossoms with crimson petals and golden stamina. One produces leaves, afibrding a fragrant beverage resembling tea. All are in immense variety and abundance, yielding materials for every kind of work. Beautiful furniture has been made in Edinburgh and London from some of these finely-grained, hard-textured, brilliantly-polished woods, several of which yield rich dyes, while others emit a grateful perfume. Among the trees which have been introduced are the oak, the ash, the horse-chestnut, the Spanish chestnut, the wal- nut, and several species of the mimosa. They appear to thrive well ; but the experiment is not yet sufficiently mature to decide on the quality of the timber in its full development. Equally important with the timber is the native flax of New Zealand, a peculiar plant, of which ten or twelve varieties have been found — some in the low marshes, others 336 NEW ZEALAND. on tlie surface of ricli alluvial plains, others on hill-sides barren of everything else. The largest kind has leaves ten or twelve feet in height, and tapering from three or five inches to a point. These never lie open, but are folded in a graceful curve, like huge eccentric sea- shells. Bunches of fiowers grow from the stem with purple chalices full to the brim of a delicious syi-up. Though it grows wild every- where, it must be planted and cultivated with care, to be made available for manufacturing purposes. Fifty or sixty fern-plants exist in New Zealand. Their roots once formed an important article of food with the natives ; but since the settlement of Europeans, so many materials of subsistence superior to them have been introduced, that the lordly Maories have abandoned to the wild hogs this humble pro- vision, together with the root of the bulrush. From an edible pulp contained in the stem of one variety the early colonists used to make a very respectable imitation of apple-tart. The fruit of one shrub, called tutu, afibrds the natives an insipid but harmless wine ; the seeds, however, are poisonous, and at particular seasons the leaves highly injurious to cattle. A few indigenous grasses occur, all of them perennial; but the scrub-flax and fern occupy the wide plains and slopes, where myriads of sheep and cattle might find pasture. An indigenous anise-seed grows in many parts, greatly improving the flesh of the animals feeding on it. European grasses, however, spread rapidly, and the native species promise soon to be altogether extinguished. “ Like Australia, therefore, New Zealand is on the whole poor in natural vegetable growths. Only one indigenous fruit of any importance is known — the hiekie, a parasitical plant, bearing a cucumber- shaped fruit, said to come to perfection only once in three years. Poor as it is, however^ in this respect, the country now possesses almost every vegetable produced in Glreat Britain, with many others CANTERBURY. 337 transplanted from the exhaustless soil of the East. Captain Cook, it is believed introduced potatoes more than seventy years ago : new varieties have been added from time to time to improve the quality. The root now thrives in great perfection, and the natives subsist principally upon it. In the poorer soils two crops are annually obtained. Duiing the prevalance of the California gold-fever, speculators in Wellington bought large quantities of this vegetable for £5 a ton, shipped them, and sold them at San Francisco with a profit of 700 per cent. ! A small sweet potato is also grown, and a small but delicious yam, which some suppose was brought by the Maories when they came to New Zealand from their original country, undetermined by ethnographers, in Polynesia. Maize was introduced before the islands were systematically colonised, and fiourishes in great abundance except near Wellington, and in some of the more southern districts, where there is scarcely sufficient hot weather to ripen it. Melons, pumpkins, gourds, and others of the same class, wild oats, yellow trefoil, and other grasses, now prevail plentifully, afibrding abundant subsistence to man and the creatures which minister to his necessities. Every sort of grain known in Europe, with its numerous varieties, has been introduced. Wheat from an Egyptian mummy has been sown with great increase, and the black-bearded wheat with solid straw, so plentiful in the south of Spain. The corn grown in the Yalley of the Ilutt is of a quality so fine that it might be exported with advantage even to England. Its straw is nearly six feet high, and it yields an average of from forty-five to fifty bushels per acre. The ordinary qualities thrive to rich perfection in the alluvial valleys^ and along the borders of streams where a fine soil prevails. ‘‘ Oats are cultivated as much for the straw as the grain. Two crops of oaten straw are frequently cut in the course of a single year — the first yielding four tons and a half per acre. Hops and barley grow in great profusion, and if Z 338 NEW ZEALAND. industriously cultivated would prove of immense importance to the colony. Free as the climate is from injurious elec" trical phenomena, and abounding as the islands do with pure wholesome water, they might supply Australia, India, and South America with malt liquor, of which it is calcu- lated more than 100,000 barrels are annually exported from England. The moderately rich soil on the hill slopes is best adapted to this description of husbandry. As we have already said, almost every grass in the pastures of Great Britain has been introduced into JNTew Zealand. Twenty- five species mingle on the Hawkshead Plains in Wellington District, carpeting them with a soft, beautiful covering, where herds of sleek cattle and thickly-fieeced sheep fatten all the year. When the curing of fiesh for exportation to the neighbouring regions is undertaken on a large scale, this branch of husbandry will prove of eminent importance, and every emigrant carrying out good seed will be a bene- factor to the colony. Clover, saintfoin, trefoils of various kinds, vetches^ tares, lupines, lucerns, beans, peas, buckwheat, lintseed, mustard, rapeseed, and mangel-wurzel thrive extremely well ; and though coriander, caraway, and cress — ^which grow so abundantly on the fertile hundreds of Essex — ^have hitherto been neglected in New Zealand, they would no doubt afibrd an ample profit to the proprietors of land in the alluvial districts. ‘‘In the vegetable garden we find peas, broad beans, French beans, caulifiowers, carrots, turnips, broccoli, pota- toes, celery, cucumbers, strawberries, tomatos, radishes, lettuces, parsnips, beet-root, spinach, onions, asparagus, sea-kale, artichokes, cardoons, rhubarb, capsicums ; indeed everything of the kind grown in Great Britain. “ Picottees, carnations, geraniums, polyanthuses, prim- roses, cowslips, crocuses, tulips, hyacinths, roses, pinks, pansies, dahlias, balsam, China asters, peonies, honeysuckle. CANTER15URY. 339 violets, and almost all other European flowers flourish * richly ; and in December no sight can he more beautiful than the bloom of a New Zealand garden. “ The orchard contains plums, apples, pears, flgs, peaches, nectarines, grapes, currants, the common gooseberry, quinces, Alberts, raspberries, apricots, cherries, and the Cape goose- berry — a wholesome, pleasant fruit, whether raw, cooked, or preserved, which thrives like a weed wherever it is introduced. The banana, and a few others of an Oriental character, form immense orchards. Many fruits which are annual in England are biennial, or even perennial, in New Zealand ; while others which we delicately rear in the hot- house, grow there vigorously in the open air. If the flower- garden he managed well it will shew a flne bloom all the year round. Oeraniums, as in Portugal, take the shape of shrubs ; hedges even are formed of them ; and if the varie- ties are judiciously mixed, this beautiful fence of verdure will throughout all the season he spangled with bright flowers. Considerable plantations of tobacco have been raised by the natives ; hut the manufacture of it, even for consumption among themselves, has not yet been attempted by the colonists. If Australia he poor in the animal creation. New Zealand is still more so. No beasts or reptiles native to its soil, except hats and lizards, are found upon it. In the neigh- bouring seas, however, abound those mammalia which crowd all parts of the Paciflc Ocean — the sperm, the humpback, the fln-hack, the pike-headed, the large-tipped, and the black whale, frequent its coasts, and their capture for the valuable oil and hone, afibrded to the early colonists their most adventurous and profltahle occupations. Seals of nu- merous kinds formerly abounded in Cook’s Strait and ofl' the shores of Middle Island, hut the sealers since 1827 have nearly exterminated them : this has doubtless been through an inconsiderate plan of flshery ; for by judicious arrange- 340 NEW ZEALAND. ments, leaving the seals in breeding seasons unmolested, this source of profit might have been perpetuated. The conger-eel, sole, plaice, and flounder, inhabit the waters, with an infinite variety of others unknown to Europe — a kind of shark or dog-fish, some like the cod, others the doree, others the mullet. Immense fisheries might he esta- blished, especially as salt is easily procured by evaporation ; and a large and lucrative market is ofiered among the Roman Catholics of the west coast of America, of Manilla, and of Australia. ‘‘Several kinds of birds are indigenous to the woods and neighbouring waters of blew Zealand — among them a gigantic albatross, the oyster- catcher, the bittern, the king- fisher, cormorant, quail, wild-duck, mocking or parson bird, parrots, paroquets, woodhen, pigeon, and others; some of them with superb plumage. There have been introduced peafowl, pheasants, turkeys, geese, ducks, common fowl. Guinea-fowl, canaries, and bullfinches. The varieties kept in cages for their song are continually increased by the favorites which emigrant families carry out with them. “ A degenerate mongrel-breed of dogs exists in the islands. It was probably introduced by the early voyagers, and is used by the natives in the chase of the wild-hog. The skins of those with silky white hair are made into garments by some of the wilder Maorie tribes, and tufts from them adorn their spears. Bulldogs, kangaroo-dogs — a mixture of greyhound and mastifi* — Scotch deer-hounds, German boar-hounds, Scotch colly sheep-dogs, Newfound- lands, terriers, and spaniels, thrive well, and are rapidly multiplying. It is remarkable that distemper and hydro- phobia have been hitherto unknown among the dogs of New Zealand. Horses are already supplied in considerable num- bers to New South Wales, and a swift, strong, hardy breed is furnished to the cavalry regiments in India. Cattle have been introduced from Australia and Yan Diemen’s Land, as CANTEllBURY. 341 well as some Devon bulls and cows. Beef and pork might be cured in great quantities, to supply the whaling and trading ships. Groats are still few. Sheep will probably furnish at no distant time one of the most important articles of export. The country is peculiarly well adapted to them, even more so than the neighbouring pastures of New Hol- land. In New South Wales the average weight of a fleece is two pounds and a half ; in New Zealand it is from three to four pounds. Few burrs exist, and the wool is silky, long, and fine. The annual increase is from 90 to 100 per cent. Cats, rats, mice, pigs, asses, mules, locusts, cater- pillars, ants, centipedes, spiders, flies, mosquitos, and maggots, enter into the animal kingdom of New Zealand. In the native villages or where the people are dirty, vermin abound, as they do in all communities distinguished by habits of uncleanliness. Colonisation has introduced also besides some insects not particularly valuable, others extremely useful to the settlers ; among the most important are bees. In New Zealand the months make little diflerence to this valuable insect. The bee-keeper is often overwhelmed by the multitude of swarms. The land may indeed be one day overstocked, but such is not yet the case, and the quan- tity of honey yielded is amazing. A single swarm was, in the summer of 1843-44, placed in a good situation, near an extensive flowery tract of woodland. In September 1844, it yielded 30 lbs. of honey ; in 1845, 205 lbs. ; in 1846, 721 lbs.; and in 1847, 1211 lbs.; or altogether, 2167 lbs. in four years. Hollow trees are very numerous in the woods : these are quickly occupied by the industrious little colonists whose industry is so beneficial to the -country. With all these natural advantages, without extending our speculations to others still to be discovered, we may without hesitation assert that New Zealand possesses every quali- fication which it can require to become one of the most prosperous and noble provinces of the British empire.” 342 NEW ZEALAND. In our description of Nelson, most of our re- marks in reference to society in that charming province, may be applied with equal force to this settlement. The majority of the inhabitants here are exceedingly kind and hospitable, while in point of education and intelligence they are supe- rior to those in, every other part of New Zealand, the province of Nelson not excepted. In civilised communities, nothing perhaps marks more strongly a distinction in the grade or scale of society, or denotes more immediately the amount of refinement of any particular class, than a taste for music, and the character of music for which that taste is displayed and cherished. In Canterbury, as in Nelson, a refined taste for music is at once discernible. Although this young settlement cannot at present boast of a large num- ber of instrumentalists — ^excepting, of course, the fair sex— the Lyttelton Choral Society” is an honor to the pretty town whose name it bears, while the talented performances of the society confer equal honor on the able and indefatigable leader, to whose training, patience, and perse- verance, the efiiciency of the members may be attributed. We had the honor of being present, with the Governor and suite, at a performance given by the ‘^Lyttelton Choral Society.” At the conclusion of that performance, and as a just return for the pleasure it afforded those present, his Excellency personally and publicly compli" CANTEIIBUIIY. 343 mented Mr. McArtlmr on the proficiency and talent displayed by his fair pupils, the majority of whom, as our readers may suppose, were ladies. Here also, as in Nelson, may be found another sure indication of a respectable community. The press is a mirror by which the prominent features of a people are represented,^^ says a modern writer. We have certainly obtained by our observations in New Zealand, a striking coufirmation of this doc- trine. The Lyttelton Times,’^ and ^^The Nelson Examiner,^’ are the only respectably conducted newspapers in the entire colony ; and the inhabi- tants of the provinces represented by those journals are unquestionably superior in every respect to those in the other settlements. There is, however, a newspaper published in Christchurch which must not be included in our general verdict, as our stay in that part of the Canterbury settlement did not enable us to form an opinion on the subject. But we may fairly presume, from the respectability of the inhabitants by which that journal is sur- rounded, that the honorable exceptions to which w^e have referred may be increased by the addition of one. To Mr. Shrimpton, the talented editor and pro- prietor of The Lyttelton Times, we are indebted for the following summary of events, published in his paper of December 29, 1855 : — The fifth anniversary of the foundation of this settle- ment slipped away in the midst of the excitement of a general election, without afibrding us an opportunity of 344 NEW ZEALAND. noticing, as is onr custom on sucli occasions, the degree of progress made by the settlement during the preceeding year. All the principal occurrences are so fresh in the reccollection of our readers that we need not allude to them at length ; we will merely notice the prominent changes which have taken place. The important alteration in the constitution of the provincial legislature has been very successful. The en- larged Council of twenty-four members has met twice during the year, and has enacted several useful and neces- sary laws. It is not, of course, possible that twenty- four men could assemble anywhere, for any purpose, without wasting a considerable amount of time in useless talk. The Provincial Council has its share of talkers ; but the general good sense of the House tends to discourage would-be-orators. The most important business tran- sacted during the past year by the Council, has been the settlement of the affairs with the Canterbury Association, and the framing of a set of land regulations. We have so often enlarged upon the first of these questions when it was under discussion, that we need not do more than allude to it now. The manner in which accounts were closed between the Canterbury Association and the province must be gratifying to that body after the unscrupulous and un- discriminating attacks which have been made upon them. As to the latter question, there are few, we suppose, who do' not look upon the land regulations as a make shift, in default of larger powers of dealing independently with the Crown lands for the benefit of the province. The first draft was disallowed by his Excellency ; of the fate of the second, the province is now anxiously expecting to hear. “ With respect to the revenue, we are not able now to enter into particulars, as the financial year does not end until the 31st of March. Notwithstanding all the un- toward circumstances which have tended to decrease the CANTERBURY. 345 balance available for tbe use of tlio province, we have nevertheless been very prosperous. Immigration and pub- lic works, the two great drains upon the treasury, have not been checked during the year. The prospect for the future is more doubtful ; but we do not despair of seeing a satisfactory arrangement of the financial questions of the colony come to during the next session of the Greneral Assembly. At the end of last year there was a balance of about £22,000 (in round numbers) in the provincial treasury ; at the close of this month there will not be above £2,000 or £3,000. The difference has been spent for the most part on immigration and public works ; the ordinary revenue having covered (in or about) the ordinary expenditure. We do not take the late payments from the Land Department into account, as they do not do much more than cover the advances which have been necessary to meet the first year’s interest on the Canterbury Association’s debentures. The total exports for eleven months of the year, being hona fide the produce of this province, amount to a value of £40,000. We give below a detailed account compiled from Custom House records. “The Sumner road will soon be open from the Ferry to the Shag Eock; a banking has been cut the whole way into Lyttelton, such that a horseman need not dismount between Christchurch and Lyttelton on the track of the new road. Even the partial completion of the Sumner road will tend to improve the state of communication between the port and the plains. “The arrival of a eoasting steamer has done more towards inter-communication than anything else. We are glad to be able to state at the close of the year that the experience we have already had of the “ Alma ” leads us to look for- ward to the speedy establishment of a successful line of trading steamers between the port and the plains. “ The visit of the Bishop of Hew Zealand has gone far to 346 NEW ZEALAND. put Cliuroli affairs on a more satisfactory footing. His lordship expressed his confidence in the sufficient endow- ment of the bishopric of Christchurch, and we may hope that the petition of the churchmen in the province that the Hev. H. Harper may he at once appointed, will meet with immediate attention, backed as it is by the recommendation of Bishop Selwyn. ‘‘Want of space compels us to conclude. We would wil- lingly have enlarged upon several topics of interest — such as the change in the composition of the Executive Council ; the local contributions to the Patriotic Fund ; the survey of the bar by Captain Drury, of H.M.S. Pandora ; the establishment of a Savings’ Bank at Lyttelton; the large and steady increase in the cultivation on the plains and in the bays ; and many other subjects immediately connected with the province. We may, however, congratulate our readers upon the fact, that every thing around us denotes prosperity, and that there is not an individual in the pro- vince, who has exerted himself in agriculture, sheep-farm- ing, or in business, who is not far better off now than he was twelve months ago. IMMICEATIOJ^^. “ The Beturns give a total of 704 persons who have immi- grated to this province during the past year, from the following places : — From Great Britain . . 543 I^ew South Wales . . . , 126 Yan Dieman’s Land . . 35 Total . . . . 704 “This number was classified as follows: — adult males, 358 ; adult females, 191 ; children, 155. “Three vessels arrived in this province during the past year direct from England, viz,, the Grasmere, with 107 immigrants; Caroline Agnes, with 186; and the Cashmere, with 146.” AN ACCOUNT SHEWING THE QUANTITIES AND ESTIMATED VALUE OF THE GOODS (BEING BONA FIDE THE PBODUCE OF THIS PKOVINCE), EXPOBTED During the period from the 1st January, to the 30th November, 1855, (inclusive), distinguishing Goods sent Coastwise from those Exported to the Neighbouring Colonies. ^• 000000005000000^00000 .CD»0OO«:)Ol>.(MOOOOOOrHOOOO0 0t01>.l000i— lCO(Mi Crt'-l^'fOr-lQOi-IOOrH. 1:^ O 1>- O l(Mi— lU^lOOrHO'^COi— ll>« ICO >000 (M O CO ^ CO * 2 S > ^ s ) (M CO ICO o J:- o ^ o 05 o o xn xn . . xn nd S cc . o 1=) o ' '' '' I ' (MOOOt^r^O'^i— iTfio* C500TfHi-iCNOO «0r-(< O 1— I GO ' Co'' (M CO cj O CO (05 >0 O*' CO o 00 O cr> o CO HI©* oos-— 'I-1(N(J50C CQ ■ < J 05 ^ cc rrl ^ c« ^ C3 ^ C3 5 I I . cc5 rJO o H o^ §'.21 « ^.2 S ° ^ O QJ 2 ^ .2 d S - O _o o ^ ccrS'd d ^ ^ i o d ^ -V X u-i g ^s&j; §• CZ ,p^ 5^ q. 'w 2 d-g o p °^.d , d §^3 d P d « S § Ol d o ,'d « = ' *=^ o^ < IQ w r^ ^ 4' ^ § 'S H d ^ ^ ^ o rO CJ P3 - J3 ^ TS-d w d^ « ^ « z O — S ™ _ d ■I «*-i ^ to 'd ' j O d ^ ! o-: " 1^ M d c3 . QJ 0 p !> fan eJL :q *1^ rd 2 CD bjD'd OJ O 2 ^ 2 T 3 ^V ^ a d ^ Tt4 p '-' ^ ^to 01 (D d ® ^ CJ rd (D ^3 ^ 2 o ^ y d ^ d 1 tl ■= »l l.« S'S^JlS O . • to ^ 5 S t^ .2 d , ^ d 5* fc.^ • 'd O,'^ 4^ d ® d d-d g o d O-g d d- d s ^«d d S o-p o b.2 , 2 ’ P o o d =r. ^ bo * w 'ro The accounts of these companies are rendered in England ... such manner that no distinct details can be Defender J given. INSURANCE COMPANIES. 399 From the above tabular statement it appears that the total losses and expenses have averaged on the net premium receipts, &c., 96*41 per cent. ; including dividends, 109*64 per cent. “ Annexed are the paid-up capital and funds of the above-named Fire Offices : — Capital Paid Up. Funds Invested, &c., and in hand.* £ £ Royal 277,515 372,394 Manchester 100,000 189,271 Equitable 49,608 33,002 Lancashire 144,840 146,482 Unity 138.032 86,903 British Empire Mutual — 8,601 National Provincial 25,000 18,471 Lincolnshire 8,709 10,344 Times 13,310 4,880 Law 125,000 171,170 Anchor f 50,777 89,579 North of England f 35,601 59,763 Defender f 31,787 47,828 1,000,179 1,238,688 * These amounts include duty due to the Government, and other items. t Including Life Funds. ‘‘The following Fire Companies have not registered any accounts — ^viz. :■ — “ The Athenseum (winding up in Chancery), the Emperor, the London Mercantile, and the Saxon.’^ “ And the following have been dissolved — viz. : — “ The British ; English and Cambrian ; Halifax, Bradford, and Keighley; Legal and Commercial; National Guardian; National Mercantile ; Preston and North Lancashire ; Protestant ; Sceptre ; Star ; and Times Fire and Property.*’ 400 ENGLISH If the entire body of London Insurance Asso- ciations are fairly represented by the thirteen named in the foregoing statement, a similar classi- fication would present the following results : — Number of offices showing a profit over and above expenses 59 Number of offices showing the expenses to be greater than the profits* 118 Number of offices showing accounts in such manner that no distinct details can be given to the public 77 Total 254 After the perusal of accounts furnished by a few companies only, those persons who, without inquiry, may place faith in any and every newly established Assurance Association, will not, we think, deserve much sympathy on account of any future loss or disappointment they may experience through their own simplicity. The following brief account of an expiring body furnishes rather a cheerless prospect for those whose policies bear the stamp of some insolvent institution. It is but poor con- solation for the surviving friends or relatives of one who insured his life, to find their single claim greater than the entire assets of the com- pany in which the assurance was effected. VICE CHANCELLOE’S COUET, July 12. [Before Vice-Chancellor Wood.) IN THE MATTER OF THE ATHENH:UM LIFE ASSURANCE SOCIETY. Mr. Eoxburgb (with whom was Mr. Daniel) appeared in support of a petition by the directors, praying that the INSURANCE COMPANIES. 401 company miglit be -vvound up in chambers under the pro- visions of the Joint-Stock Companies’ Winding-up Acts. The company which had been formed in 1851 had in- curred liabilities to the amount of £28,000, arising from policies and annuities granted by them, one of their heaviest losses being upon a policy for £13,000 upon the life of a gentleman, which was now due. The assets of the company were stated to be £10,000. A meeting of the shareholders had been held on the 27th of June last, at which it was resolved that the directors should be authorized to take such steps to wind up the company as should be deemed expedient. A meeting of the directors was held on the same day, at which it was agreed to wind up the company under the provisions of the Winding-up Acts. Mr. Selwyn, on behalf of some of the shareholders, though he looked with the greatest suspicion upon any pro- position coming from the directors, admitted that there was no possibility of the company being carried on with advan- tage, and was content that an order for winding up in chambers should be at once made. He asked that the costs should be reserved. Mr. Willcock and Mr. Freeman, upon a similar petition by some of the shareholders, characterized in strong terms the reckless manner in which the business of the company had been conducted by the directors. Mr. H. Stevens was instructed to oppose the petition on behalf of other shareholders. The Yice- Chancellor made the order for winding up the company in chambers upon the two petitions, reserving the costs. When, after so brief a career, symptoms of disorganisation, failure, and dissolution appear in the camp of the newly formed forces, what will 2d 402 ENGLISH any disinterested person think of the remaining body, the heads of which — like certain of the Crimean heroes — have a special interest in de- claring their own professional solvency and in- vincibility to the last. Secret associations are remarkable in this respect, and often succeed for a time in inducing a belief in their efficiency and power. But fortunately, as a general warn- ing, occasionally internal commotions force some scattered fragments of their doings to the surface ; and the Press, being the mirror through which these misgivings are reflected^ conveys to th e public a tolerably fair estimate of the body be- neath. But with regard to Assurance Companies, our surprise is, not that so few of those recently established have come to a stand, but that any of them should so soon be compelled to declare themselves in such a position. With men of the world, even with those who have private property • at stake and may sacrifice it in the struggle, there is generally a desire to prolong their commercial existence, although all reasonable hope of recovery may be extinct. But board-room gentlemen, or self- constituted directors and managers of public companies, who deal with public funds, are still more tenacious of life, and seldom finally retire from their well furnished official quarters — as a host of defunct societies have fully proved — while the balance at their bankers is considered sufficient to pay for — another champagne lunch INSURANCE COMPANIES. 403 Without consideration, it would therefore seem strange that any one of these recently formed associations should have expired so soon after birth. Such premature fatality might induce a stranger to inquire whether the numerous dis- eases incidental to babes and sucklings attack, without distinction of class or complexion, all newly formed bodies ? Or is it that the inno- cent lives accepted by these large but lax bodies have, in too many instances, represented the feeble structures on which the promoters’ hopes were founded, while the dissolution of the one has unexpectedly involved the other in a similar fate? Anxious for business and its immediate substantial reward, have they not accepted any life, from the puny infant to the diseased and drooping centenarian? Hence the sudden stop- page of a few of the least wealthy of the establish- ments — see the case reported — in which the claim on a single policy is sometimes larger than the reputed assets of the company that granted it. The public however feel more interest at pre- sent in the stability of existing institutions than in the defalcations of those which have ceased to exist. The doings and doom of the latter are no longer secrets, unless those who have paid or are paying the penalty of misplaced confidence wish to preserve them as such. But in the state of the former, the future position of thousands and tens of thousands of respectable families in this 404 ENGLISH country is staked ; and the success or failure of the stake-holders will of course determine the fate of the subscribers — whether prize or blank, whether plenty or poverty is to be their future lot. Having, then, briefly noticed a few past events connected with this subject, let us for a moment consider whether the minor misgivings to which we have alluded are likely to be suc- ceeded by a more healthy state of things, or whether they merely denote similar events of greater magnitude, or a crisis fraught with dan-* ger to the public at large. We have resided for a time in a country of volcanic origin, in which earthquakes are of periodical occurrence, and where a great convulsion is invariably preceded by minor indications of the coming calamity. We trust this fact may not influence our opinion, and induce us, unjustly, to institute a comparison between those terrestrial commotions and the com- mercial or monetary disasters which periodically take place in this country. No. Although there are certain precursory signs in these occurrences which resemble each other, our forebodings in the present instance are founded on something stronger than a mere recognition of such a re- semblance. They spring from facts and figures, and from a reasonable presumption for the cause why facts and figures are so mystified as to be unintelligible to the public. Our premises are not shaped by private but public information ; INSURANCE COMPANIES. 405 and any of our readers have themselves equal opportunities for making their own deductions from official documents or occasional reports from our law courts. But Englishmen, as a body, seldom trouble themselves to inquire into the real state either of private debtors or public companies, in whom they may be personally in- terested, until the inquiry, as a precautionary measure, becomes unnecessary. When a great ^ crash does take- place, or a bubble suddenly ex- plodes, then the dormant but sanguine creditor may be heard to exclaim, ah ! whokl a’ thought it!^’ And have we not every reason to fear that, sooner or later, such will be the general exclamation with respect to a large number, if not the majority, of newly formed Assurance Societies? Do not past events and present sta- tistics justify such a presumption with regard to the future? If not, all human calculations and predictions, as suggested by the commercial baro- meter, are unworthy of consideration or trust ; and people have no right whatever either to foretell, guard against, or try to avoid a coming storm ; but simply to dwell on mischiefs after they have taken place, or endeavour to repair damages that, with many, may be found to be irreparable. According to this doctrine, an Insurance Com- pany or any other company whose expenditure may be in excess of its income by twenty thou- sand a year, cannot be questioned as to the 406 ENGLISH probable result of such a game so long as the game is not ended. The players may make fresh moves in favor of the shareholders or their supporters ; and until the game be declared at an end, those of the public without the ring have no right to speculate as to the period or nature of its termination. The author of the following extract from an article on New Specu- lations,’’ a list of which appeared in The Times ” of July 4th, surely merited, if he has not received,, severe reprehension for expressing, without re- serve, his opinion on a subject of vital importance to the community. ‘^The fever of speculation now gradually commencing will be watclied with anxiety by all who regard the per- manent welfare of the country. Every one can see that with the influx of bullion, the demand for new investments will increase, that this demand will be met on all sides, and that the majority of the schemes introduced will call not merely for the surplus funds seeking employment at the moment, but will pledge the community to a continued out- lay long after the tide may have turned. They can also recognize that the final result will be a crash such as was witnessed in 1825, 1836, and 1847, and which in this country may be looked for with absolute precision once every eleven years. The whole population will nevertheless go on, each man believing that he will pause in time, and that his neighbour is to be the person who must suffer. In such a state of affairs all warnings are useless since there is no difference of opinion as to the end. The only service that can be rendered is to remind the public from time to time of their actual position, so that if they increase INSURANCE COMPANIES. 407 their commitments to an extravagant extent, they may at least do so with a full knowledge of what they are under- taking. Thus far no danger has been incurred, hut a retrospect of the enterprises of the past half-year, will show that the amounts already engaged to he furnished are con- siderable, and that when these shall have been doubled or trebled — as will, perhaps, be the case during the next six months — they will make an aggregate sufficient to absorb the disposable means of England for three or four years thereafter.” After furnisliing a list of the companies intro- duced on the Stock Exchange since the 1st of January, 1856, the writer goes on to state the aggregate capital required by them to be £23,490,000. But in a subsequent issue of the same paper an additional list is given, which aug- ments the previous amount by about ten millions, making a total of £33,490,000. A tolerably fair amount of English capital this — a large portion of it for the continent — arranged for by a few companies — independent of assurance associations — which have been formed during a period of little more than six months. These figures would appear large enough without being doubled or trebled, as predicted by The Times writer, to precipitate a crisis, which the brief space of a few years, or probably less, cannot fail to bring about. With regard to some of the recently formed assurance associations, however unsound in con- struction, artificial in design, or reckless in action such institutions may be, the probability of an 408 ENGLISH immediate or general wreck is not so great as with delusive schemes of a different character. Yet, the more remote the period of a smash the greater the amount of the disaster. A man who subscribes for two or three years only to an under- taking that will yield him nothing in return, is clearly not so great a loser as he would be on continuing his subscription for a longer period with a similar result. And if any existing in- surance office — like some departed relative — should keep open until its assets are not sufficient to cover the claim on one policy, what, we would ask, will be the share for others? Free at present — as Heaven grant this country may continue to be — from the cholera, or any such fatal malady, the large numbers of persons who have recently in- sured their lives are not, it is to be hoped, so near their exit from this world as to test the solidity of the institutions in question for the next few years. And during the lives of its valuable subscribers will any such office voluntarily close its doors against its unselfish and noble-minded directors and ingenious officials — and, above all, against the material matter on which the nobility of the one and the ingenuity of the other are found to thrive ? Enough. Ten or fifteen years will disclose more than we have either said or intend to say on this subject. Of the manner in which some of the companies are formed, and of the character and doings of those by whom they are formed, our INSURANCE COMPANIES. 409 readers may themselves judge by the following extracts from the examination of an ex-manager, who recently (August 7, 1856,) brought an action against the directors of a company at present in existence : — “Plaintiff, cross-examined by Mr. James. — Witness was not formerly connected with the Eqnitahle Life-office, hut with a fire-office of that name, and he travelled about the country as their agent. The directors who were appointed in March, 1856, to manage the offices of the Athenseum Society were an entirely new set of gentlemen. Mr. Harris, one of the old board, by whom witness was appointed, was a solicitor. He had been insolvent. Did not know where he was now, but believed he was in some lunatic asylum. Mr. Howard, another of the old board was a surgeon. Did not know what had become of him. Mr. Carrington Jones, another director, he believed, was now engaged some way in the army, and he believed was at Malta. He was for- merly secretary to the Athenaeum Life-office. Witness once had a promissory note from him for £257 10s. It was a security for money advanced to him by the society. The Rev. Mr. Bartlett and a person named Sutton were also directors of the society in 1853. Sutton, he believed, was the promoter of the company. The Rev. Mr. Bartlett lived at Fulham, but he did not know of his having any benefice. Witness was not to be paid his full salary until 2,000 preference shares were paid up. The society had no money until he found them some. Their revenue in 1853 was not more than £70 or £80. Sutton was what was called the “ getter- up ” of the company. He was formerly a clerk in an insurance-office. Soon after he was appointed the directors gave him shares to the amount of £1,000, and they lent him £750 from the funds of the society, to pay a deposit of 15s. upon each of the shares, and this was entered 410 ENGLISH in. tlie books as a real transaction, and it was made to appear tbat lie was tbe actual bolder of that number of shares, and that he had paid the deposit upon them. In point of fact he did not pay a single farthing. The Chief Baron (to the witness) — Why, in point of fact, the “ transaction ” was all fudge, was it not ? Witness. Well, my Lord, it was very much like it. (A laugh.) Cross-examination continued. — The object of the pro- ceeding undoubtedly was to make the public believe that the nominal capital of the company was larger than it really was. Did not think that the proceeding was adopted at his suggestion. There were only five directors at this time, and each of them had £2,000 worth of shares given to him in the same manner, and the deposits were taken from the capital of the company, and none of them paid a far- thing of their own money for the shares. These trans- actions were all entered in the books as though they had been genuine ones. The witness was then further cross-examined by Mr. James. — He said that at the time he was appointed there were other shareholders than the five directors whose names he had mentioned. The directors and the shareholders were, in point of fact, one body. He was then questioned upon several money transactions, and he admitted that a sum of £250, which appeared on the books as having been lent to the Athenaeum Life-ofiice was, in point of fact, ad- vanced to Mr. Carrington Jones, one of the directors, who gave a promissory note as security, and he was to pay six per cent, interest. The same gentlemen who were directors of the fire-office, were also directors of the life department, and the money was entered as having been lent to that department. The entry was undoubtedly fictitious. He objected to the proceeding at the time, but the directors persisted on it, and he considered he was bound to obey their instructions. INSURANCE COMPANIES. 411 Mr. James. — Was any portion of this £250 ever repaid to the society ? Witness. — jSTo. The Chief Baron asked what had become of Jones. The witness said he did not know. The last time he heard of him he was serving in a foreign regiment at Malta. A private ledger kept by the witness was here handed to him, and he was asked to explain how it was that the date appeared to have been altered in one of the entries, and September, 1855, substituted for June, 1853, in rela- tion to a sum of £250. The witness said he knew nothing about it — the alteration had been made by the accountant of the company. The Chief Baron said it appeared to him that there had been gross fraud, and that some of the persons concerned ought to have stood on the other side of the court. The plaintiff, on further cross-examination, said that Jones was paid the dividends upon the shares that were placed in his name. The two offices — the Athenaeum Life, and the Athenaeum Fire were carried on in the same building. They were in the habit occasionally of bor- rowing money of each other. In May, 1853, there was a proposition for the fire-office to advance £400 to the life- office upon a deposit note at six per cent. The money was drawn on two checks, one for £300, which was crossed to the life company’s bankers, and another for £100. The latter was not crossed, and it never came into the pos- session of the life company, and no one knew what had become of it. Field, the detective officer, was employed to investigate the matter, but no trace of the £100 check was ever discovered. He could not say why he did not cross the £100 check, but he supposed the board told him not to do so. Mr. Sutton, one of the directors, told him not to put the name of the Athenaeum Life Company’s bankers on the 412 ENGLISH check, and to put his own hankers, the London and West- minster, instead. The loss of the £100 check was very annoying, and he was told by Field that he had traced the notes that were paid for it to within twenty yards of the Athenseum- office. He believed that Mr. Sutton was at present in London, and that he was engaged in getting up another company. (A laugh.) There was another entry on the hooks referring to a sum of £107 16s. 6d., which was represented to have been lent to the Athenaeum Life Com- pany, and which was fictitious. In point of fact, this money was employed to pay a bill incurred by another society, called the Security Mutual, with which witness was con- nected. The money was employed to take up a bill, to which witness and Mr. Coyne, who was a director of the Athenaeum, were parties; but it was represented in the books that the money had been, advanced to the Athenaeum Life-office. The Chief Baron remarked that the operations of the company appeared to be very extraordinary. The same set of gentlemen appeared to be shuffling the money backwards and forwards to each other. Mr. James. — The fact was, my Lord, that, whenever any of the directors wanted to borrow any money, they took it out of the funds of the company, and it was entered as a loan to the life-office. (A laugh.) Cross-examination continued. — ^Witness was the projector of the Security Mutual- office. It was now in process of being wound-up. (A laugh.) In answer to a question put by the jury, the witness said that several of the directors of the Athenaeum Life and ^Fire-office Vv^ere also directors of the Security Mutual Com- pany. By Mr. James. — The Security Mutual gave him the same number of shares that he received in the Athenaeum, and it was also made to appear that he had paid up £750 upon INStTRANCE COMPANIES. 413 Ills shares. This was not at all an extraordinary pro- ceeding, and the only thing that was remarkable about the transaction was the smallness of the amount. (A laugh.) Will any sane person, after reading the state- ments in the preceding examination, be disposed, without the strictest scrutiny, to invest money in newly formed Insurance Companies ? For our own part, we should be very loth, as a commercial speculation, to give a shilling in the pound for the sole right to supposed sums that may here- after become due on policies granted by the ma- jority of life-offices of recent formation. Why? After the evidence, not ours^ but of others, fur- nished in this brief review, can an answer be necessary ? Can any who attentively peruse that evidence have the slightest faith in the majority of recently formed life associations ? Impossible. If, with us, our readers have no faith in the majority of such institutions, they might perhaps wish our information to extend a little further to enable them to learn the number and names of the minority. But however desirable such in- formation might be for the future security of others, it is alike beyond our power and province to furnish. Having supplied what we deem a necessary caution on an important subject, we should exceed our duty by naming for public support particular objects from a large number recently established, without being able to ^dis- tinguish from the general body those which 414 ENGLISH contribute to dangers that make this warning necessary. Where, however, there are no such doubts, there need be no such scruples ; and for the information of those who may require it, we furnish the names of a few London and country establishments which — ^to use an expressive term of assurance where no doubt can possibly exist — we believe to be ‘^as good as the Bank of Eng- land.^^ Personally we are unacquainted with any one connected with such institutions. The simple fact that they have ever been and are still respectably conducted, while the majority if not all of them have been in existence for more than thirty years — some for more than a century — is our only inducement to name, as worthy the con- fidence of uninformed branches of the community, those institutions which experienced members of the public consider worthy of trust without our recommendation. Eoyal Exchange, Fire, Life, Marine. London Assurance, Fire, Life, Marine. County and Provident, Fire, Life. Atlas, Fire, Life. Guardian, Fire, Life. Westminster, Fire. Equitable, Life. London Life Association. Pelican, Life. Economic, Life. Liverpool and London, Fire, Life. Sun, Fire, Life. Phoenix, Fire. INSURANCE COMPANIES. 415 Imperial, Fire, Life. Alliance, Fire, Life, Globe, Fire, Life. Union, Fire, Life. Hand in Hand, Fire, Life. Law, Life. Law, Fire. Hock, Life. Amicable, Life. Hortb British, Fire, Life. Manchester, Fire. Norwich Union, Fire, Life. Leeds and Yorkshire, Fire, Life, National Mercantile, Life. Scottish Union, Fire, Life. Scottish Equitable, Life. Scottish Provident, Life. City of Glasgow, Life. Edinburgh, Life. Standard, Life. Argus, Life. Scottish Amicable, Life. Scottish National, Life. Alliance British and Foreign, Fire, Life. There may be, as no doubt there are, offices of recent origin, the solidity and respectability of which entitle them to a place by side of the above. But how or by whom can such offices be named or identified, when only three out of thirteen — as represented by their own accounts — have shown their revenue to be in excess of their expenditure ? It may be said that all must ■ 416 ENGLISH INSURANCE COMPANIES. necessarily have a beginning, and that small be- ginnings often lead to great results. Yery true. But such beginnings have generally a forward tendency. Had the above named institutions, like those of recent formation, commenced by a retrograde movement, such institutions would long since have ceased to exist. But even as thoughtless children will, on the morrow, forget the timely advice or gentle ad- monition of to-day, the adult or more experienced part of the population would appear to be equally forgetful of, or to profit little by, the severe mone- tary lessons of the past. Were it otherwise, the recent failure of the Royal British Bank would furnish a lasting sign of the danger of placing much, if any, faith either in institutions or direc- tors which are not well knoivn to the public at large — such as occasionally become known to be found wanting in the only essentials necessary to their respective positions. c / p , . 40 i ^ i. ^ ' z C ^ / 7 ■/ . 47 . I ■ '1