V. THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE Compiled by PARKER THAYER BARNES THE SUBURBAN PRESS, Publishers NEW YORK HARRISBURG, PA. CHICAGO All rights reserved Copyright, 19 ii By THE SUBURBAN PRESS JEount Pleatfant Pr e$s J. Horace McFarland Company Harrisburg, Penna. 6 3 4 . ] 3 ^(dS CONTENTS PAGE Planting Time-Tables for Vegetables . . 5-6 The Best Vegetables for the Home Garden . 7—16 (Varieties to Grow and How to Do It) Planting Time-Tables for Flowers . . . 17-20 The Best Flowers for the Home Garden . . 21-32 (Kinds to Grow and How to Do It) How and When to Spray 33~ 59 In the Fruit Garden ....... 33—41 In the Vegetable Garden ...... 42-48 In the Flower Garden ...... 49-53 Shade Trees and Shrubs ...... 5 3~5 5 Spraying Formulas 56-59 Insecticides for Chewing Insects .... 56 Insecticides for Sucking Insects .... 57 Fungicides ........ 59 Fertilizing the Small Garden .... 60-62 Planting Tables for Bulbs . . . . . 63-64 Note. — T he alphabetical arrangement of the text is so simple that an elaborate index has not been deemed necessary. 738949 PLANTING TIME-TABLES FOR VEGETABLES (Allow ten days for every 100 miles north or south of New York) Variety When to Sow Seed Necessary How Deep to Plant (inches) R. , roots. S. , seeds Thin or transplant to (inches) Indoors Outdoors Artichoke, Globe . February i ounce for 500 X 24 x 36 plants Asparagus April 1 oz. for 50 ft. S. 1 24 x 36 R. 6 Beans, Broad Mar., April 1 qt. for 100 ft. 2 12 x 24 Beans, Bush Lima May 1 qt. for 100 ft. 2 6 x 12 Beans, Pole Lima May 1 qt. for ioohills 2 36 x 36 Beans, Wax May-Aug. 1 qt. for 100 ft. 2 12 x 24 Beans, Pole May 1 qt. for 100 hills 2 36 x 36 Beets April-Aug. 1 oz. for 50 ft. iH 9 X 18 Broccoli April 1 ounce for 1 ,000 K 24 X 36 plants Brussels Sprouts. April, May 1 ounce for 1,500 % 18 X 36 plants Cabbage Feb., Mar. May, June 1 ounce for 1,500 Y 24 X 36 plants Cardoon May, June 1 ounce for 300 tvI ante 1 24 X 36 Carrot April-July plains 1 oz. for 100 ft. y 2 6 x 18 Cauliflower 1 ounce for 1,000 V* 24 x 18 plants Celery February April, May 1 ounce for 3,000 J /* 6 x 48 Chard, Swiss April plants 1 oz. for 50 ft. 1 % 9 x 24 Corn April May, June 1 qt. for 100 hills iK 36 x 36 Corn Salad April— Aug. 1 oz. for 100 ft. M 6x6 Cress April-July 1 oz. for 50 ft. Yat 3x6 Cucumber March May-July 1 ounce to 50 % 36 x 36 Dandelion April mils 1 oz. for 1,000 VAt 12 X 18 plants Eggplant Feb., Mar. 1 oz. for 1,000 V* 36 X 36 plants Endive April— Sept. 1 oz. for 150 ft. Y 12 X 12 Kale May 1 oz. for 150 ft. K 12 X l8 Kohlrabi May, June 1 oz. for 200 ft. V* 12 X 24 5 6 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE PLANTING TIME-TABLES FOR VEGETABLES, continued Variety When to Sow Seed Necessary How Deep to Plant (inches) j R. , roots j S. , seeds j Thin or Tiansplant to (inches) Indoors Outdoors Lettuce Feb., Mar. Apr. -Aug. i i oz. for 120 ft. X 8 X 24 Lettuce, Romain . April-July i oz. for ioo ft. X 8 x 24 Melon, Musk April May, June i oz. for 60 hills 1 60 x 60 Melon, Water . . . i oz. for 30 hills j 60 x 60 Mustard April, May 1 oz. for 80 ft. lYx 1x6 Okra March May 1 oz. for 400 % 18 x 24 plants Onion February April S.,ioz. for 100 ft. S. X 12 X 24 R., 1 qt. forsoft. R. 2 6 x 24 Parsley April 1 oz. for 150 ft. V2. 6x12 Parsnip April 1 oz. for 200 ft. X 6 x 24 Peas Mar. -June 1 qt. for 100 ft. 'l A X ^6 Peas, Sugar April 1 qt. for 100 ft. J 3 T- A J'-' 4 X 36 Pepper March 1 oz. for 2,000 X 18 X 36 plants Potato April, May t pk. for ioohills 2, early 12 X 24 5, late 18 x 36 Pumpkin May, June 1 oz. for 30 hills 1 V* 108 x 108 Radish Feb., Mar. Apr. -Sept. 1 oz. for 100 ft. V2 3x8 Rampion May 1 oz. for 200 V* 3x8 plants Rhubarb Sept., Oct. 1 root a plant R. 4 48 X 48 Salsify April 1 oz. for 75 ft. 1 X 6x8 Spinach Mar.— May, 1 oz. for 100 ft. 1 6x18 October Spinach , New Zealand May 1 oz. for 100 ft. 1 12 x 24 Squash March May, June 1 oz. for 50 hills 1 Bush, 36x48 Late, 72 x 96 Tomato Feb.-April 1 oz. for 1 ,000 X 36 x 48 plants Turnip Apr. -Aug. 1 oz. for 150 ft. X 4 X 18 8 x 30 Vegetable Marrow May, June 1 oz. for 50 hills 1 36 x 48 THE BEST VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN ARTICHOKE, GLOBE. A tall-growing vegetable which is grown for its flower-heads. It can be raised from seed or from suckers, the latter being the usual method, because then one is able to perpetuate good varieties. The varieties do not come true to name when grown from seed. Seeds sown one year will produce good flower-heads the following year; they can sometimes be had the same year by sowing the seed early indoors. The flower-heads are gathered just before the blue flowers begin to appear. The part eaten consists of the fleshy portion on the inside of the large outer scales and the “ bot- tom/’ or receptacle, of the head. Grow the artichoke in rich soil. It will bear for two or three years. Give it slight protection over winter. French Globe is a standard sort. The Jerusalem artichoke is grown for its root. ASPARAGUS. This vegetable is grown for its young shoots, and the quality depends upon the succulence of them. To get the best shoots, plant one-year-old roots and allow them to become well established before cutting begins; they should grow two full years before cutting. Grow asparagus in a light, rich, and well-drained soil, to secure the best and earliest results. Stop cutting the shoots when peas become ripe — June 25 in the North. Cut off the stalks in the fall before the seeds mature (berries turn red), so that stray seedlings will not appear be- tween the rows. Mulch heavily in the fall with manure. In the spring, use nitrate of soda. Conover’s Colossal, Barr’s Mammoth, and Palmetto, are the best green varieties. Mam- moth white has white stalks. BEANS, BROAD. But few people know this vegetable in this country, but it is highly appreciated in England. It is used as a shell-bean. They are as hardy as peas, but will not succeed in hot climates, and they are subject to bad attacks of the flea-beetle. Early Mazagan and Broad Windsor are stand- ard sorts. When the pods have formed, break off the tops, to force the strength into the pods. 7 8 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE BEANS, BUSH LIMA. These are two to four weeks ear- lier than the pole limas. There are three types. Dwarf Sieva, or Henderson’s Bush Lima, is the earliest, but has small pods. The young beans, however, are delicious. Wood’s Prolific, or the Improved Henderson, is a week later, and is a stronger grower and the pods are a little larger. The third type is Bur- pee’s Bush Lima, which, while being dwarf, has large, broad pods, like the pole sorts. The seedsmen have improved these original sorts, so that better or earlier forms can be had under such names as Burpee’s Quarter Century, Dreer’s Wonder, Kumerle, Fordhook. All limas are ultra-tropical plants, so must not be planted until the ground is warm. Set the seeds on edge in the ground. Do not use strong nitrogenous manures in the spring; use, rather, phos- phoric acid and potash. Nitrogen causes too much growth, and retards the season. BEANS, POLE LIMA. Later than the dwarf sorts. The earliest of the tall ones is the Sieva, which has three-inch pods, each pod with three beans. They are delicious if picked before they have reached full size. Large White, Early Leviathan, Early Jersey, King of the Garden, Ford’s Mammoth Podded, are all good varieties. The last two are late, but have pods five inches long. For fall use, plant Potato-leaved or Chal- lenger. These do better in cool weather. Use poles ten feet long. In cool seasons, when the plants are makingfmore growth than pods, cut the tops of the plants off when they reach the top of the pole, so that there will be more beans produced. BEANS, BUSH. There are green and yellow beans. Bur- pee’s Stringless Green Pod, Improved Round Valentine, Giant Stringless Valentine, Extra-Early Refugee, and Refugee or 1,000 to i, are standard green-podded sorts, and mature in the order given. A good succession can be had by planting at the same time Burpee’s Stringless Green Pod, Extra-Early Refugee, and 1,000 to i. They will produce for two to four weeks after the first comes into bearing, and one or two further plantings of these varieties, ten days or two*weeks apart, will maintain a succession all summer. For the best beans, grow round-podded and stringless sorts. Of the yellow, or wax beans, Burpee’s White Wax, Kidney VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN 9 Wax, Rust-proof Wax, and Golden Wax, are all good varieties, but the first is probably the best. These are fiat-podded. Pen- cil-Pod Black and Brittle Wax are two round-podded varieties that require seven to eight weeks to bear, but are good in appearance and flavor. BEANS, POLE. These are used either as snap-beans, or as shell-beans used green. White Creaseback (green) is the earli- est. It requires eight to ten weeks to mature. Other good varieties, maturing in about the following order, are White Dutch Caseknife (green and best for cool situations), Old Home- stead or Kentucky Wonder (green), Stringless Green-pod (green), Golden Cluster Wax (yellow), Sunshine Wax (yellow), Golden Carmine Horticultural (yellow, and the best of the yellow kinds), Lazy Wife, a popular and very prolific sort; the last is a fall bean. The yellow kinds are the best for the hot summer months. Plant a few hills of each for testing. You will know better, then, what kinds suit your particular needs. BEETS. Egyptian, Eclipse, and Edmund’s, mature in the order given. Beets are better when young and tender; so, make sowings a couple of weeks apart. The thinnings can be used for “ greens.” BROCCOLI. This is really nothing but a longer-seasoned and later-maturing cauliflower, but better adapted than it for the cool North. Early White, Mammoth White, and Purple Cape, are good varieties. BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Little cabbages that grow thickly clustered together on a tall stalk. It is a late-fall and winter vegetable, that is best after it has been touched by frost. It can be left outdoors during the winter, if protected by corn- stalks or straw. It requires the same treatment as late cabbage. Grows two to three feet high, but there are dwarf varieties. Long Island, Dalkeith, Half-dwarf, are good varieties. Good seed is essential. The stocks soon deteriorate unless carefully selected. CABBAGE. Early Jersey Wakefield is the best early sort. The head is smaller than the late sorts, so can be planted closer 10 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE together. All Head is a good intermediate variety, and Late Flat Dutch a good late variety. Early cabbages are started in the fall and carried over the winter in coldframes, or they can be started in February in the greenhouse and hardened- off before planting out. The late varieties can be started in seed-beds outdoors. Do not water the cabbages after they have matured, it will cause the plants to grow more and will split the heads. They will not keep then. CARDOON. Similar to the Globe artichoke. It is too large a vegetable for the small garden, and valuable only where a very large variety is wanted. The leaves are gathered together and the earth drawn around the stalks to blanch them, like celery; unblanched, it is not fit to eat. Large Spanish and Large Solid are two good varieties. It needs a rich soil. CARROT. Like beets, they are best when young and tender. Grow Early Forcing, making several sowings for succession. For larger roots, plant Danvers or similar varieties. CAULIFLOWER. The culture is the same as for cabbage, but cauliflower demands, if it be grown successfully, cool, moist weather. Plan an early crop, one that will mature before the hot weather, and a late fall crop. Earliest Dwarf Erfurt is the best early. For cool climates, plant Early Snowball and Algiers for second-early and main crop, respectively. In warmer sec- tions, make successive sowings of Earliest Dwarf Erfurt. It requires a moist, cool, and rich soil. CELERY. A leaf crop that requires a rich soil — one in which there is much nitrogen. Grow in trenches, so that it can be easily banked up for blanching. It can also be blanched by boards or paper placed closely about it to exclude the light; but earth-blanched celery has the most flavor. Early varieties can be blanched by planting close together in a coldframe and putting a shutter over the frame, to blanch. White Plume is the best early variety. Golden Self-blanching is nearly as early, and equally good, some people prefer it to White Plume. For main crop, grow Boston Market, a small variety with a very nutty flavor, and Giant Pascal, a larger, tender sort. Give an abundance of nitrate of soda. VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN n CHARD, SWISS. A beet that does not produce a large root. The leaves only are eaten. It can be served as beet “ greens/’ or the mid-rib can be removed and served as aspar- agus. A fifteen-foot row will supply a family of three. When the leaves are cut off, a new supply is formed. There is no choice as to varieties, all are good. CORN. Peep O’Day, Golden Bantam, Crosby’s twelve- rowed, and Stowell’s Evergreen, or Country Gentleman, will insure a succession; they will mature in the order named. See article on Sweet Corn in March, 1911, “ Suburban Life.” CORN SALAD. Grown as a fall salad, and can be used as a substitute for lettuce, but it is not nearly so good. CRESS. Water cress can be grown in any small stream of water, or in soil kept constantly damp. Upland or curled cress can be grown in the garden or in “ flats ” in a frame. Make frequent sowings (once in 2 weeks). It gives piquancy to a salad. CUCUMBERS. For an early crop, grow Early White Spine; second early, Cool and Crisp; for main crop, Long Green. Start a few plants indoors on inverted sod or in pots, for the earliest crop. Seed sown July 1 will produce fruits large enough for pickling by fall. JDANDELION. A pot-herb, or “ green.” They can be blanched and served as a salad. French Garden, Thick-leaved, and Large-leaved, are good sorts. Seeds sown any time up to June will be ready to cut the following spring. Needs rich land and nitrogenous manures. EGGPLANT. A hot-climate plant, which must never receive checks during its growth. Start early indoors, and pro- vide a fairly rich, well-drained soil, and a long season in which to grow. New York Improved and Black Pekin are the best varieties. Fruits are ready to eat when one- third grown. ENDIVE. A substitute for lettuce, and is essentially a sum- mer and fall crop. It will thrive when lettuce will not succeed 12 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE because of hot weather. Requires the same culture as lettuce. Blanch the interior leaves by gathering all the leaves into a bunch and tying them with string or raffia at the top. This is done two or three weeks before it is wanted for use. The crowns will sometimes rot when tied up for blanching, if the weather is rainy or continues cloudy for some time. It must be used as soon as blanched. Late fall plants can be stored and blanched in the cellar or pits. Make successive sowings every two weeks. For varieties, grow White Curled, Green Curled, or Broad-leaved. KALE. The culture is similar to that of cabbage, but the plants are hardier and require less attention. It is grown for its leaves, which are used as a pot-herb. It is used only very late in the fall and early spring, when other pot-herbs are not available. It is not injured by frost, so can be left in the field all winter. The older leaves and leafstalks are all improved by freezing. Good varieties are Dwarf Green Curled Scotch, Dwarf Curled Brown. Sow Siberian in September for early spring “ greens.” KOHLRABI. Although almost unknown in some sections, it is highly prized in others. It is grown for its tuberous stem, — a turnip-like tuber which is produced just above the surface of the soil. It must be used before the tubers become too large and stringy (three inches in diameter). They must be grown quickly and receive no check, otherwise they will be tough and bitter. For early crops, sow in frames Short-leaved Vienna. For main crop, Early White Vienna. This latter is the kind grown by market-gardeners. LETTUCE. Grown for salad, and it is a cool, short-season crop which is usually grown as a successional or companion crop. Requires a moist, rich, friable loam and quick-acting fertilizers, mostly nitrogen. There are three kinds — loose- headed, of which Grand Rapids is the type; head, or cabbage lettuce, and Romain or Cos. For the earliest lettuce, grow Grand Rapids; for main crop outdoors, grow heat-resisting varieties, such as Deacon, Hanson, Summer Cabbage Curled Simpson, Salamander. In midsummer, protect it during midday from the hot sun. Express Cos, Trianon Cos, are the VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN i3 best of the Romain lettuces. Some of them will form a suffi- ciently compact head to blanch themselves, but it is better to tie the leaves together to insure blanching. The Cos lettuces are the crispest and, in some respects, the best lettuces. MELONS, MUSK, or, as they are sometimes erroneously called, cantaloupes. Cantaloupes have hard, warty rinds, and are seldom grown in this country, although the name is fre- quently used. Light, moist soil — one in which there is always much soil moisture, but still good drainage — will prove the best for melons. Three to four good fruits per plant is the usual yield. For early, grow Netted Gem (Rocky Ford is a selection from this, made famous by being grown at the town of that name in Colorado). For second-early, grow Emerald Gem, and for main crop, Long Island Beauty. MELONS, WATER,. The cultural requirements are the same as for muskmelons. Early Fordhook is the best early, while Cole’s Early is the best second-early and main-crop melon. MUSTARD adds a pleasant, pungent flavor to salads. Make successive sowings every ten days or two weeks. Good varieties are Chinese and White London. OKRA. This is the vegetable used in making the famous gumbo soups of the South. It is a warm- weather plant. There are two kinds, tall and dwarf, the latter being the best for home gardens. Grow Dwarf Green Long Pod and Lady Fin- ger or White Louisiana. The pods of the former should be picked when two to four inches long, the latter, when four to five inches long; do not allow the pods to stay on longer. If there are too many for immediate use, gather and dry them. Gather the pods daily, preferably in the evening. ONION. For the earliest sorts, plant onion sets. For main crop, Danvers or White Globe. Prizetaker onion was the first big onion grown in this country. Since its introduction, in 1888, there have been others, notably Ailsa Craig. These onions frequently weigh one pound or more. To be had at their best, they should be started early indoors and transplanted. For success, grow onions in a loose, friable loam that is rich and H THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE free from stones. It must be finely prepared, all stones and lumps being removed. PARSLEY. The most popular herb for garnishing. It is a biennial, the foliage being used the first year; the plant being destroyed at the end of the season and new started for next year. The seeds germinate very slowly unless soaked for twenty-four hours in lukewarm water. It requires three months from sowing to get plants of sufficient size to allow the picking of the leaves. Moss-Curled and Fern-leaved are the best vari- eties. Hamburg, or Turnip-rooted, has a fleshy root. PARSNIP. To be good, they should stay in the ground over-winter, but they can be harvested and stored in earth in a cool cellar or pit; the roots must not shrivel; if stored inside, the quality will be injured. Hollow Crown and Student are two standard varieties. PEAS are hardy; they may be sown in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked. The ground should be deeply worked. English gardeners frequently work it three feet deep and find that it pays. Make successional plantings every six to ten days. For the earliest crop, sow a smooth variety, such as Daniel O’Rourke; a week later, when the ground has warmed up a little, wrinkled varieties, which are sweeter, can be sown. For second early, plant Nott’s Excelsior; for main crop, Cham- pion of England. An early variety for very late peas can be sown in August. Too much nitrogen will cause the plants to make too much growth and too little fruit. PEAS, SUGAR. These are edible-podded peas, which are picked while the pea or seed is still small and the pod tender. They are broken up, cooked and served like string-beans. PEPPER. Needs the same culture as tomato. Do not plant them out until all danger of frost has passed. For the earliest fruits, plant Neapolitan. Bull Nose and Ruby King are two good main crops. POTATOES. To get the earliest potatoes, sprout the seed, put them in a warm, light place, so that the sprouts can grow; VEGETABLES FOR THE HOME GARDEN 15 they may be as much as three inches long without h&rm. Early Rose is a good early variety; for second early, Beauty of Hebron; for main crop, Carman No. 1 and Green Mountain. The variety to be grown will depend somewhat on the character of the soil. PUMPKIN. Two good varieties for pies are Sugar and Dunkard. They must be stored in a warm (45 0 ) dry place, or they will rot. Plant among the corn, to save room. RADISH. Can be had in twenty-one days. Sow as soon as the ground can be worked, and make successional sowings every week all summer. For early, plant Early Scarlet Tur- nip Forcing; for second early, French Breakfast and Long Scarlet. For storing for winter, sow seeds in June of Half-long Black Spanish. Store these in damp sand. RAMPION. Roots can be eaten like radish, or the leaves can be used as salads. Store the roots in damp sand in the cellar. RHUBARB. The quality depends upon its size and succu- lence, therefore the soil must be rich. A plantation will last twenty years or more. Linnaeus, Victoria, St. Martin’s, are good kinds. To get the earliest stalks, put a barrel over a root and place manure about it. SALSIFY. A hardy vegetable for flavoring soups, and may also be served as parsnips are. Long White and Sandwich Island Mammoth are good varieties. Store over winter in sand in the cellar. SPINACH. Really a spring and fall crop, but can be had all summer by making successional sowings in cool, moist ground. For early-spring crops, sow the seeds in the fall outdoors and cover with mulch. Thick-leaved is the hardiest; for spring- sowing, Long Standing, Long Season and Victoria are the best. SPINACH, NEW ZEALAND. Not a true spinach, but a good substitute, as it withstands the heat of summer when the true spinach will not grow well. Use the ends of the branches and the leaves. i6 THE SUBURBAN GARDEN GUIDE SQUASH. The earliest are the summer squashes, of which White Bush Scarlet and Yellow Crookneck are the best. For winter, plant Boston Marrow or Hubbard. Store as for pump- kins. TOMATO. Start the early kinds in pots or cans, so that they may be easily transplanted when all danger of frost has passed. Grow on stakes or trellises, or put brush about them, to prevent the vines getting on the ground. For early, plant Earliana or Early Jewel; for main crop, Acme and Stone. The ground must not be too rich or fruit will not set. TURJfIP. To be good, they must be grown quickly. Slowly- grown turnips will be woody, stringy and bitter. Have rich, moist soil in fine tilth. Of the flat kinds, Milan Purple Top, Munich and Teltow are good home kinds. White rutabagas are better than the yellow. Grow Budlong’s White Swede. Plant Rutabagas in June or July. Flat turnips for winter use should also be sown in June, in New England; about New York, July 15; while, about Philadelphia, August 15 is plenty early enough. If planted earlier they would get too hard and woody. For spring use, sow as soon as the ground can be worked. The best books on vegetable gardening are: The Principles of Vegetable Gardening, by Prof. L. H. Bailey. $1.50 net. Vegetable Gardening, by Prof. S. B. Green. $1. A Book of Vegetables and Garden Herbs, by Allen French. $1.75 net. How to Make a Vegetable Garden, by Edith L. Fullerton. $2.20. PLANTING TIME-TABLES FOR FLOWERS Variety When to Sow Seed Thin or Transplant to (inches) Height (feet) Indoors Outdoors Abronia March May 12 V