THE LIBRARY of St. PAULS HOUSE 3831 No. Mozart St., CHICAGO No. LAWRENCE J. GUTTER Collection of Chicogoano THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT CHICAGO The University Library ci il, mili- tary ami frontier Hie, constantly varying scenes, and deeply interesting stories, combine to place their writer in the front rank of American authors. SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION. NS DESIRING AGENCIES FOR ANY OF CAFFAI> ZIER'S BOOKS SHOULD ADDRESS THE PUBLISHERS. DOWN GREAT RIVER; EMDRACIKO AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE ci[ tt[E Mississippi, TOGETHER WITH YIEWS, DESCRIPTIVE AND PICTORIAL, OF THE CITIES, TOWNS, VILLAGES AND SCENERY ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER, AS SEEN DURING A CANOE VOYAGE OF OVER THREE THOUSAND MILES FROM ITS HEAD WATERS TO THE GULF OF MEXICO. BY CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER, Author of "Soldiers of Ihe Saddle," "Capture, Prison-Pen nn.I Escape," "Battles for the I'uion," "Heroes of Three Wars," " Peculiarities of American Cities," "Ocean to Ocean on Horseback," etc. PHILADELPHIA: HUBBAKD BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 723 CHESTNUT STREET. 1887. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1887, by WILLARD GLAZIER, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. , : J HON. CHARLES P. DALY, LL, D., CATS CHIEF JUSTICE, COURT OF COMMON PLBAS, NEW YORK; PRESIDENT geographical As A TRIBUTE OF RESPECT FOR His EMINENT PUBLIC SERVICES; AND His LIFELONG DEVOTION TO THE CAUSE OF GEOGRAPHICAL SCIENCE; lie llolumc IS DEDICATED INTRODUCTION. 'HE discovery of the Mississippi is very generally ascribed to Ferdinand De Soto, who, in his adventurous march in pur- suit of gold and glory, reached the Great River in April, 1541, near the site of the present city of Natchez. Worn out with fatigue and humiliated by his many disappoint- ments, he died on its banks, and found his final resting-place in its depths. Discovery in the Valley of the Mississippi rested for nearly a hundred years after the death of De Soto, when the zealous Jesuit missionary, Father James Mar- quette, accompanied by Sieur Joliet, proceeded from Michilimackinac to the head waters of Fox River, then by portages into the Wisconsin, and descended that stream to its confluence with the Mississippi in 1673. Thoroughly exploring the Mississippi as far as the mouth of the Arkansas, Marquette began his return voyage to Canada, but after enduring many privations and hardships among the Indians fell a prey to ma- laria contracted on the Lower Mississippi, died and was buried on the western shore of Lake Michigan. Robert de La Salle, following in the footsteps of Marquette, sailed from Rochelle, France, on his first voyage to the New World, in the summer of 1678; landed at Quebec in September, and in the spring of vii Vlll INTRODUCTION. 1679 ascended the Niagara River and, traversing Lakes Erie, Saint Clair and Huron, reached Michil- imackinac the latter part of August. From this point he proceeded in a southerly direction to Lake Michi- gan and erected on its banks a fort in the territory of the Miamis. In 1680, we find him at Fort Fron- tenac, on Lake Ontario, and in the autumn of 1681, he descended the Mississippi from the mouth of the Illinois River on his way to the Gulf of Mexico, reach- ing it April seventh, 1682. Soon afterward he re- turned to France by way of Quebec. La Salle left France on his second expedition in July, 1684, reached the Gulf of Mexico in the follow- ing February, founded a settlement on the Bay of Saint Louis, and during his voyage to Canada was assassinated by his own men. The command of the expedition and the account of his explorations devolved upon his lieutenant, the Chevalier Tonti. When La Salle led his first expedition to the Mis- sissippi, Father Louis Hennepin, who had accompanied him from France, was sent northward with three voyageurs to explore its head waters. After ascending the Mississippi one hundred and fifty leagues above the junction of the Illinois, they were taken prisoners by the Indians and carried into captivity towards the the source of the river in a journey of nineteen days. Being set at liberty they descended the stream and returned to Canada. Hennepin subsequently pub- lished an account of his explorations and advent- ures which tended to throw considerable light upon the Indian tribes he had encountered, and the regions he had traversed. In 1683, Baron La Hontan, an unfrocked monk INTRODUCTION. IX and subsequently an officer of the French army, arrived at Quebec. During the four years of his military service in Canada, he was stationed for a time at Michilimackinac, where, in 1688, he first heard of the death of La Salle. Being commissioned to con- tinue the work of exploration begun by Marquette, La Salle and Hennepin, he proceeded to Green Bay and passed through the Fox and Wisconsin rivers to the Mississippi in 1689. The highly colored stories of his observations and adventures related by this explorer rival the tales of Munchausen, and lead the reader to question the credibility of his published accounts. For a period of one hundred and fourteen years succeeding the explorations of La Hontan, the Great River was seldom visited by white men. Charlevoix, who had been commissioned as the historian of New France, landed at Quebec in 1721 and, passing through the lakes, descended the Illinois and Mississippi to New Orleans. Captain Jonathan Carver, a native of Connecticut, who had served several years in the provincial army, gave some attention to the Upper Mississippi in 1766. By his courage and invincible daring among the Indians he acquired a powerful influence over them ; was elected by the Sioux to the chieftainship of a tribe, and given a vast tract of laud, which, however, the British government declined to ratify. The fate of Carver cannot but elicit our warmest sympathies. His gallant services as a soldier and his zealous work in the field of exploration should have insured for him from his king a respectable competency; but, on the contrary, he was suffered to feel the annoy- ances of poverty, and died of want in the city of X INTRODUCTION. London, where, for a long time previous to his death, he endured greater privations than had fallen to his lot in the American wilderness. From 1769 to 1793 several enterprising travelers carried forward the work of exploration in the New World. During these years Samuel Hearne made a journey from Hudson's Bay to the Coppermine River, and McKenzie performed a voyage to the Pacific Ocean. Nothing, however, was done in the direction of the Mississippi after the return of Carver, until 1805, when Lieutenant Zebulon Montgomery Pike, a brave and accomplished young officer of our regular army, was ordered by General Wilkinson, then in com- mand of the Department of Louisiana, to proceed to the head waters of the river and continue the exploration. Pike started from Bellefontaine, Missouri, with a force of twenty men, in August, 1805. Knowing com- paratively little of the climate of the region he was about to visit, having no interpreter or guides, he labored under many disadvantages. Winter overtook him when he had reached a point only one hundred and twenty miles north of Saint Anthony Falls. Here he built a block-house and, leaving a detachment of his men in charge of a sergeant, pushed forward with snow-shoes and sledges as far as Cass Lake, then known to the agents of the North-west British Fur Company as Upper Red Cedar Lake. It appears from the narrative of Lieutenant Pike's expedition that he derived his information of the topography of the country chiefly from representa- tives of the North-west Fur Company, on whom he seems to have relied largely for assistance in the de- lineation of maps. These fur-traders led him to a 1NTR OD UCTION. X1 wrong impression concerning the source of the Missis- sippi, which he located in Turtle Lake. Having, as he supposed, accomplished the object of his mission, Pike returned to Bellefontaine, and subsequently published an account of his expedition and its results. General Lewis Cass, of Michigan, an eminent sol- dier and statesman, organized an expedition at De- troit and led it up the Detroit River and through the lakes to the Mississippi in the spring and summer of 1820. Like his predecessor, Lieutenant Pike, General Cass reached the Mississippi too late in the season to penetrate to its ultimate source. His ex- ploration rested in the lake which now bears his name and which had been previously visited by Pike. Having on his staff several gentlemen of scientific attainments, the Cass expedition was distinguished by its attention to the peculiar characteristics of the In- dian tribes and the botany, mineralogy, and meteor- ology of the regions traversed. Passing over the expedition of Beltrami and his sup- posed discovery in 1823, we find that early in the spring of 1832, Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, who had accompanied General Cass in 1820, was commissioned by the Gov- ernment to proceed to the Upper Mississippi, make cer- tain treaties with the Indians and carry forward the work of exploration, if possible, to its fountain-head. Fully equipped, and with an officer of the regular army to com- mand his escort, Schoolcraft arrived at Cass Lake on the tenth of July. Pushing forward with small canoes he reached Lake Itasca three days later. Evidently sat- isfied that he had found the object of his search, and having an appointment to meet Indians in council at the mouth of Crow Wing River, Schoolcraft neglected Xli INTRODUCTION. to coast Itasca for its feeders, and thus missed the goal he had so industriously sought. Jean Nicolas Nicollet, who succeeded Schoolcraft in Mississippi exploration, was a native of France, and came to America in 1832. His first visit to the head waters of the Mississippi was entirely unofficial and made in the interests of science. Having attracted the attention of our Government, he was sent at the head of an expedition to the same region in 1836. This eminent explorer appears, from his maps and the narrative of his expedition, to have overlooked the main stream entering the south-western arm of Lake Itasca, and to have accepted conclusively the statements of those who had preceded him. Satisfied that the work of exploration at the head waters of the Mississippi had been completed by Schoolcraft and Nicollet, nothing further was at- tempted in this quarter, with the exception of a partial survey, from 1836 to 1881, an interval of forty- five years, when in the latter year the question of the fountain-head of the Great River was again revived, and a hitherto unrecognized lake to the south of Itasca -was located by the author of this volume as the primal reservoir the TRUE SOURCE of the FATHER OF WATERS. WILLARD GLAZIER. November 24, 1886. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. THE OLD EXPLORERS. De Soto, Marquette, La Salle and Heunepin. Pike, Beltrami, Schoolcraft and Nicollet. Lake Itasca. Other Lakes. A Field for Exploration. The Author Proceeds to Saint Paul. Prepares for an Expedition to the Head Waters of the Mississippi. Journey to Brainerd. Topography of the Country. Extra Sup- plies. Leech Lake. Kabekanka River ..... 29 CHAPTER II. THROUGH THE CHIPPEWA COUNTRY. En Route to the Head Waters of the Great River. Impenetrable Underbrush. A Rough Road. Half-way Houses. Gull Lake. Wandering Indians. Hole-in-the-day. Little Crow. John Mona- han. Aboriginal Conflicts. Reuben Gray. Dinner at Gull Lake. Ride to Pine River. Huge Logs and Boulders. George Barclay. Characteristics of Indians. Fourteen Mile Lake. First Meal in Open Air. Exuberant Spirits. Gauging the Ra- tions. Duck-shooting. Birch-bark Canoes Capsized. Resolved on more Caution. Journey Continued 32 CHAPTER III. HOME OP THE CHIPPEWAS. Arrival at Leech Lake. Log-cabin Hotel. Fresh Fish and Flap- jacks. Canadian Fur-traders. Indian Agency. Major Ruffe. Paul Beaulieu. White Cloud. Pioneer History. Sioux and Chip- pewas. Domestic Habits of Indians. Secure an Interpreter and Guides. Birch-bark Canoes. Flat-mouth. Chenowagesic. Din- ner with Flat Mouth. Rev. Edwin Benedict. Theory of Paul Beau- lieu as to the Source of the Mississippi. Diversity of Opinion 38 xiii XIV CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. A Council. Chenowagesic Draws a Map. Canoes. Distribution of Luggage. Embark on Leech Lake. Making a Portage. Kabe- kanka River. Trolling for Fish. Encampment. Clouds of Mos- quitoes. Strike Tents. Launch Canoes. Lake Garfield. Packing Traps. Indians Carry Canoes. More Mosquitoes. Gabekanazeba River. Astir at Dasvn. Naming Lakes. Blue Berries. Wolf and Deer. Shooting Ducks. De Soto River. Short Rations. Ammu- nition Lost. Rigid Economy. Portage. Height of Land. Flocks of Pigeons. Wild Strawberries. Lake Itasca. Schoolcraft Isl- and ... 49 CHAPTER V. TRUE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. Exhausting Portages. Empty Haversacks. Coasting Itasca for its Feeders. A Talk with Chenowagesic. Infant Mississippi. A Beautiful Lake. Source of the Great River. Description of Primal Reservoir. Three Feeders. Lake Alice. A Geographical Error Corrected. A Surprise. Pokegama. Chenowagesic Speaks. Latitude and Altitude of Source. Length of the Mississippi. Mean Descent 68 CHAPTER VI. DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. FIRST DAY. " Now for the Gulf of Mexico ! " Return to Itasca. A Bald Eagle. Short Rations. Outlet of Itasca. Obstructions. Narrow Gorges. Savannas. Wild Rice. Camp Discovery. Mar- quette River. Gna wings of Hunger. Mosquitoes. SECOND DAY. Exploring for Breakfast. Descending the Stream. The Dis- covery. The Alice. The Itasca. Shoot an Otter. Two Ducks Shot and Two Captured. A Light Breakfast. Drift and Boulders. All Hands Clear the Way. Hunger and Fatigue. The Otter Roasted for Supper. Small and Poor. Advanced only Fifteen Miles. Camp Otter 77 CHAPTER VII. PERILS AND PRIVATIONS. THIRD DAY. Blue Berries. Chain of Rapids. Kakabikons Falls. A Capsize and a Loss. Joliet River. Hunger, Gaunt and Stern. Four Ducks Shot. Disembark and Pitch Tents. Camp Hunger. CONTENTS. xv Ducks Reserved for Breakfast. FOURTH DAY. Paddles Resumed. An Old Duck. La Salle River. A Deer. A Wasted Shot. Ex- hausted. Halt for Rest. Two Ducks and a Mud-Turtle. Wild Rice. Savannas. Pinidiwin River. Wild Geese out of Range. Camp Starvation '. . . . 86 CHAPTER VIII. BEMIDJI TO WINNIBEGOSHISH. FIFTH DAY. Struck Tents at Sunrise. Two Ducks and a Muskrat. All Hands Very Weak. Meet a Canoe. Fish and Sugar. Lake Marquette. Lake Bemidji. Camp Relief. Trading-post Aban- doned. Empty Larder Again. SIXTH DAY. Re-embark. Two Small Ducks. Cass Lake. A Few Dried Fish. Camp Chippewa. Foraging. Corn and Potatoes. Aboriginal Generosity. We Help Ourselves. Description of Cass Lake. Lieutenant Pike. Governor Cass. SEVENTH DAY. Cabin of Missionary. Up at Daybreak. Roasting Potatoes. Meet Some Indians. Dried Veni- son. Lake Winnibegoshish. Strong Wind. Nearly Swamped. Strike the Beach. Kitchinodin. Cordial Reception. Wind- bound. Indian Character. A Good Dinner for All Hands. Kitchinodin Asks a Blessing. A Walk Through the Village. Description of Lake Winnibegoshish 95 CHAPTER IX. HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHDPPEWAS. EIGHTH DAY. Home of Kitchinodin. Religion of the Chippewas. The Great Spirit. The Evil Spirit. Invoking the Deity .Polyga- my. Education. Luck. Fasting. Females Degraded. Origin of the Chippewas. A Future State. False Traditions. Inter-mar- riages. Courtship. Power of Husband over Wife. Funerals. In- vocations to Deceased. Grief. Parting with Chenowagesic. Happy Hunting-grounds 105 CHAPTER X. LAKE WINNIBEGOSHISH TO GRAND RAPIDS. NINTH DAY. Re-embark. Driven Ashore by High Wind. Camp Chenowagesic. Tents Pitched. Retire for the Night. Disturbed at Midnight. Villanous-looking Indians. ELEVENTH DAY. Slow progress. Leech Lake River. White Oak Point. Camp Kitchinodin. Chippewa Village. Curiosity of Indians. Chief Dull-Knife. Ugly Women. Nude Men. Description of a Wig- wam. Indians Friendly. TWELFTH DAY. Meet Three Canoes. XVI CONTENTS. Half^for Dinner. Mosquitoes. Pokegama Falls. A Portage. Arrive at Grand Rapids. The Potter House .... 122 CHAPTER XI. GRAND RAPIDS TO AITKIN. THIRTEENTH DAY. Supply of Food. Leave Grand Rapids. Farewells. Make Good Progress. Camp Portage. FOURTEENTH DAY. Camp Thunder. Change of Scenery. Halt for Dinner. Swan River. Steamer City of Aitkin. A Salute. Land for the Night. Heavy Thunder-storm. FIFTEENTH DAY. Camp Mos- quito. Re-embark. Meet Indians. White Man with Indian Wife. Fine Country. Former Battle-grounds. SIXTEENTH DAY. Douglass House, Aitkin. Return to Civilization. Mud River. A Capsize. " The Commodore." Interpreter Leaves for Leech Lake. Aitkin. Population and Industry 130 CHAPTER XII. TEN DAYS AT AITKIN. Reorganization Lecture Appointments. Profitable Employment. Carlos Douglass. Rambles Around Aitkin. Productive Soil. Numerous Lakes. Modern Canoes. Rushton Canoe. A. H. Seigfried. A Veteran Canoeist. Rushton's " No. 93." Description of " No. 93." " American Travelling Canoe." Letter from A. H. Seigfried. H. L. Hinckley. Valuable Sug- gestions. Racine St. Paul Canoe. Rob Roy Canoe. Descrip- tion of Racine St. Paul Letter from Mr. Hiuckley. Advice and Instructions Relating to Canoes. Good Wishes . . . 136 CHAPTER XIII. AITKIN TO BRAINERD. TWENTY-SIXTH DAY. Pine Knoll. Below Aitkin. "Weighed Anchor." " Snags and Sawyers." Broad Savannas. Pine Tim- ber. A Pleasing Landscape. Abundance of Water-fowl. A Wil- derness. John Polly and Family. Hospitality. Thunder-storm. TWENTY-SEVENTH DAY. Camp Discomfort. Launched Canoes. All Hands in Good Spirits. The Sioux Portage. Another Cap- size. Approaching Storm. Stores Damaged. Lightning and Thunder. Tents no Protection. Story-telling to Pass the Night. TWENTY-EIGHTH DAY. Start for Brainerd. Halt for Dinner. Re-embark. Arrive at Brainerd. Greetings. Warren Leland. Arthur E. Chase. Dr. Rosser. Lecture. Chauncy B. Sleeper. George Barclay. The Stolen Trunk. Thieves Arrested. Held for Trial. Description of Braiuerd ...... 141 CONTENTS. Xvii CHAPTER XIV. BRAINERD TO MONTICELLO. TWENTY-NINTH DAY. Re-embark. Land at Crow Wing. Charles Bailey. Hunting Exploits. Description of Crow Wing. THIR- TIETH DAY. Little Falls. A Surprise. Judge Story. A. J. Pier- son. Vassaly House. Lecture. THIRTY-FIRST DAY. Receive Calls. Moses Lafond. Nathan Richardson. Valuable Informa- tion. Shooting the Falls. The Alice. Pike Rapids. Mrs. Mc- Neil. Western Hospitality. Western Women. Women Farmers. THIRTY-SECOND DAY. Saint Cloud. River Widening. Sauk Rapids. Nearly Swamped. Captain West. Lecture. Judge L. A. Evans. Description of Saint Cloud. Jane Grey Swisshelm. THIRTY-THIRD DAY. Monticello. Reach Monticello. Cordial Welcome. Lecture. Henry Kreis. Samuel E. Adams. Henry Glazier 154 CHAPTER XV. MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. THIRTY-FOURTH DAY. Leave Monticello. Interest Manifested. River-drivers. Wongans. Booms and Jams. Village of Elk River. THIRTY-FIFTH DAY. Friedley. Strong Wind. Blown Ashore at Anoka. Dinner. Reach Friedley. THIRTY-SIXTH DAY. Jams and Log-booms. Reach Minneapolis. " The Nicol- let." Saint Anthony Falls. Grand Spectacle. " Sound of Many Waters." Father Hennepin. Height of Falls. Breadth of Falls. Legend of the Falls. Arnpato's Fate. Saint Anthony. Sus- pension Bridge. University. Water-power. Huge Rafts. Lum- ber Business. Flour-mills. Summer Resorts. Falls of Minne- halia. Boating, Bathing and Fishing. Germans and Scandi- navians. Metropolis of North-west ...... 163 CHAPTER XVI. TEN DAYS AT SAINT PAUL. Fort Snelling. Lieutenant Pike. Major Long. Colonel Leaven- worth. Colonel Snelling. Minnesota River. Jonathan Carver. Geology and Mineralogy. Minnesota Boat Club. " The Island." Deliver a Lecture. Father Hennepin. Treaty with Sioux. Pierre Perent. First Building in Saint Paul. Catholic Mission. Bridges. Capitol. Opera House. Academy of Sciences. His- torical Society. Schools. Asylums. Stores and Warehouses. Retail Trade. Wharfage. Railroads. Points of Interest. Car- ver's Cave. Fountain Cave. White Bear Lake. Bald Eagle Lake. City Park. Progress of Civilization . . . .183 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. FORTY-SIXTH DAY. Leave Saint Paul. Drenching Rain. The Gem City. Hastings. Lecture Postponed. Foster House. FORTY-SEVENTH DAY. Leave Hastings. Saint Croix River. Red Wing. Swiss Missionaries. Dakota Indians. William Freeborn. Manufactures and Resources. FORTY-EIGHTH DAY. "Beware of Lake Pepin." Frontenac. General Garrard. Legends of Lake Pepin. Maiden Rock. Lake City. FORTY- NINTH DAY. Minneiska. Violent Wind-storm. Chippewa River. FIFTIETH DAY. Reach Winona. Courtesies. Lecture. Business Activity. Railways. Churches. Schools. Public Li- brary. Newspapers. Manufactures. Lumber Trade. FIFTY- FIRST DAY. Leave Winona. Ugly Clouds. Violent Wind. Canoes Filled with Water. Sudden Calm. Disembark at Trenipealeau. Melchior House 197 CHAPTER XVIII. THREE DAYS AT LA CROSSE. Trip from Trempealeau. La Crosse and Surroundings. Delightful Day. Beautiful Scenery. Arrive at La Crosse. Pearce Giles. Name of City. Distance from Saint Paul. Black and La Crosse Rivers. Growth of La Crosse. Myrick's Indian Trading-post. Present Population. Products and Resources. Potatoes and Flax. Port of Entry. Lumber. Base of Supply. Electric Lights. Churches. Schools. Newspapers. Public Library. Rapid Im- provement 220 CHAPTER XIX. LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. FIFTY-FIFTH DAY. Victory, Wisconsin. Heavy Thunder-storm. Driven Ashore. FIFTY-SIXTH DAY. Prairie du Chien. Dim- cult Landing. Marquette and Joliet. Jesuit Mission. Kickapoo Indians. The Mound-Builders. Gautier de Vorville. Brisbois. Captain Fisher. Saint John's College. Saint Mary's Institute. Fort Crawford. FIFTY-SEVENTH DAY. Guttenberg, Iowa. Thoroughly Soaked. The City and its Surroundings. FIFTY- EIGHTH DAY. Dubuque, Iowa. September Rains. Land for Dinner. Refused Accommodations. Beautiful Scenery. Excel- CONTENTS. xi x lent Pasturage. Winnebago Indians. March of Civilization. A " Pocket." Reach Dubuque. Julian Dubuque. Lead Mines. Treaty with Indians. Immigrants. The Civil War. Volunteers. Trade and Manufactures. Lumber. First School. The Lead District Geographical Position of Dubuque . . . .226 CHAPTER XX. DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. FIFTY-NINTH DAY. Start for Davenport. Change of Scenery. Excellent Progress. Reach Bellevue. Bower House. N. O. Ames. Hon. W. O. Evans. Captain Warren. B. W. Seaward. Bellevue and the Bandits. Delightful Summer Resort. A Promis- ing Town. SIXTIETH DAY. Clinton, Iowa. Wapsipinicon Boat Club. Hospitality. Revere House. Description of Clinton. Death of Garfield. SIXTY-FIRST DAY. Comauche. Meeting an Army Comrade. Cordova. Le Claire Rapids. Moline. Lowell of the West. Manufacturing Centre. Water-power. " City of Mills." Rock River. Deere & Company. Educational and Religious Matters. Sylvan Water. Rowing Association. 244 CHAPTER XXI. FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. Rock Island Arsenal City of Rock Island. Site of Davenport. The Illini. Winfield Scott. George Daven- port. Antoine Le Claire. James Mackintosh. The Ferry. Sidewalks. Court House. Educational Advantages. Churches. Public Library. Academy of Sciences. Mercy Hospital. Home for the Friendless. Growth of Davenport. Rock Island Arsenal. General Rodman. Colonel D. W. Flagler. Early Settlers. Cause of Black Hawk War. Governor Reynolds. General Gaines. The "Prophet." Treaty of Peace. Colonel Atkinson. Zachary Taylor. Jefferson Davis. General White- side. Abraham Lincoln. Hard Fighting. End of War. Sacs and Foxes. Late Civil War. Military Prison. Description of the Island. Capacity of Arsenal. Ornithology. Rock River. Hennepin Canal. Rock Island City. Description. Commerce aud Manufactures. Black Hawk's Watch-tower . . . 252 CHAPTER XXII. DAVENPORT TO BURLINGTON. SIXTY-SIXTH DAY. An Early Start. Reach Muscatine. De- 2 xx CONTENTS. scription. Railways. Lumber. Agricultural Produce. Churches. Schools. Population. SIXTY-SEVENTH DAY. Stop at a Farm House. Funeral of President Garfield. Iowa Grangers. John Warren Walton. Iowa River. Home of Black Hawk. Indian Relics. SIXTY-EIGHTH DAY. Keithsburg. Reach Burlington. Barrett House. Flint-mills. Description of Bur- lington. First Settler. Samuel S. White. Doolittle. John Grey. Name of City. Dr. Samuel S. Ross. Judge D. Rorer. Zion Church. Opera House. First Wedding. Population. Public Library. Churches. Schools. Colleges. Boat Club. Private Residences. Prospect Hill. Black Hawk Amphi- theatre. The Levee. Manufactures and Commerce. Iron Bridge. Steam-ferry. Burlington College. Burlington Hawkeye . 272 CHAPTER XXIII. BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. SIXTY-NINTH DAY. Leave Burlington. Adventure on a Sand- bar. Rich Farms. Nauvoo. Joseph Smith. Collisions with Gentiles. Polygamy. Book of Mormon. Compelled to Flee. Description of Temple. Military Corps. Spiritual Wives. Arrest of Joseph and Hiram Smith. Hiram Shot Dead. Joseph Wounded and Killed. Brigham Young. Rigdon. Armed Mobs. A "Special Revelation." Flight. Temple Destroyed. Icarians. M. Cabet. SEVENTIETH DAY. Reach Keokuk. A Tradition. Dr. Samuel C. Miner. American Fur Company. Moses Stillwell. Joshua Palean. Indian Wives. Dr. Isaac Galland. Jesse Crayton. " Medicine Ground." Government Canal. Water-power. Manufacturing Centre. National Cemetery. Government Hospital. Public Library. Churches. Schools. Artesian Well. Steamboats. Fair-grounds. Railroads. College of Physicians. Beautiful Locality. Hand- some Buildings. SEVENTY-FIRST DAY. Gregory, Missouri. Leave Keokuk. Des Moines River. Gregory. SEVENTY-SECOND DAY. Quincy, Illinois. Meet Several Steamers. The Gem City. Description of Quincy. Railroad Bridge. Parks. Fair-ground. Elegant Residences. Manufactures. Churches. Hospitals and Asylums. Medical College.- Schools. Public Library. Popula- tion . 283 CHAPTER XXIV. QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. Leave Quincy. Reach Hannibal. Description of Hannibal. CONTENTS. XXI Growth and Prosperity. Lumber. Manufactures. Coal and Limestone. Schools. Hannibal College. Population. SEV- ENTY-SIXTH DAY. Cincinnati, Illinois. Naming Villages. Narrow Limits. Unattractive Surroundings. SEVENTY-SEVENTH DAY. Cap Au Gris, Missouri. Dense Fog. Leave Cincinnati. Clarksville. Hamburg. Falmouth. Great Only in Name. An Unenviable Position. Midnight Apparition. The Gem City Again. Landed. Suspicion Aroused. "River Tramps." Another Ef- fort. Re-embark. Reach Cap Au Gris. "Leading Hotel." River Invading the Town. SEVENTY-EIGHTH DAY. Alton, Illi- nois. Leave Cap Au Gris. Illinois River. La Salle. Derivation of " Illinois." Revolutionary War. Kaskaskia. Alton. De- scription. Population. Piasa Creek. Bluffs. Caves. Rail- roads. Manufactures. Lime and Building Stone . . 302 CHAPTER XXV. THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. Trip from Alton In and Around Saint Louis. Missouri River. Majesty of the Mississippi. The Yellowstone. The Great Falls. Tributaries. Marquette and Joliet. Saint Gene- vieve. Civil War. Governor Jackson. General Fremont. Mar- tial Law. Confederates. Laclede. A Trading-post. Old Market Square. LSguest. Name of Saint Louis. Under Spanish Rule. Attack of Indians. Inhabitants Chiefly French. Old Saint Louis. First Ferry. First Baptist Church. First Methodist. First Episcopal. Governor La Motte. Population. Pilot Knob. Great Bridge. Captain Eads. Caroudelet. Missouri Gazette. Joseph Charles. Missouri Republican. Post-Dispatch. Globe- Democrat. The Times. German, French and Spanish Papers. Deaf and Dumb Asylum. Convent of Good Shepherd. Shaw's Garden. Agricultural and Mechanical Association. Fair Week. Forest Park. Northern Park. Lafayette Park. Court House. Chamber of Commerce. Custom House. Jewish Temple. The Levee .......'... 312 CHAPTER XXVI. SAINT LOUIS TO CAIRO. EIGHTY-FIRST DAY. Once More Afloat. Lunch in the Canoe.-- Crystal City. EIGHTY-SECOND DAY. River Obstructions. Vari- eties of River Craft. Saint Geuevieve. Chester. EIGHTY-THIKI* CONTENTS. DAY. Grand Tower. An ex-Union Soldier. EIGHTY-FOURTH DAY. Cape Girardeau. A Circus and a County Fair. Blown Ashore. EIGHTY-FIFTH DAY. An Early Start. Junction of the Ohio and Mississippi. Cairo. History of the City. Description by Charles Dickens. Cairo in War Times. The Cairo of To- day. The Future of Cairo 330 CHAPTER XXVII. CAIRO TO MEMPHIS. EIGHTY-SIXTH DAY. Off Again. Belmont." Shanty-Boats." Hypocritical Boatmen. Hickman. EIGHTY-SEVENTH DAY. Point Pleasant. Chickasaw Bluffs. Mound-Builders. Fort Don- elson. " Island No. 10." Reelfoot Bayou. EIGHTY-EIGHTH DAY. A Hearty Send-off. "Tow-heads." Numbering the Islands. Annual Overflows. A Settler's Life. EIGHTY-NINTH DAY. Arkansas. Fort Pillow. Negro Cabins. Crops of Cotton. NINE- TIETH DAY. A Sixty-three Miles' Run. Harrison's Landing. Royal Courtesies. NINETY-FIRST DAY. Arrival at Memphis. History of the City. Commerce. Institutions. Ravages of Yel- low Fever 345 CHAPTER XXVIII. MEMPHIS TO VICKSBURG. NINETY-SECOND DAY. Lodging with Negroes. Robert Green. Ben. Montgomery. NINETY-THIRD DAY. Helena. Arnot Harris. W. L. Morris. NINETY-FOURTH DAY. Rough Experiences. Friar's Point. A Floating Photograph Gallery. At Modoc. NINETY-FIFTH DAY. The Vicksburg. NINETY-SIXTH DAY. Levees. The White and Arkansas Rivers. NINETY-SEVENTH DAY. Fortunate Escape. A Quick Run. NINETY-EIGHTH DAY. Monotonous Scenery. Greenville. NINETY-NINTH DAY. Lively Greeting at Ashton. ONE HUNDREDTH DAY. Ashore at Ingomar. Negroes' Saturday Night. ONE HUNDRED AND FIRST DAY. Nearing Vicksburg. Its War Experiences. The Great Canal. Terrific Fighting. The Surrender . . . 357 CHAPTER XXIX. VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. ONE HUNDRED AND SECOND DAY. Meet a Steamer. The Natchez. Warrenton. A Political Meeting. ONE HUNDRED AND THIRD DAY. The Cotton Gin. The Boiiduraut Plantation. A CONTENTS. Good Run. ONE HUNDRED AND FOURTH DAY. A Late Start. Zachary Taylor's Plantation. His History. ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTH DAY. Arrival at Natchez. L. Q. C. Lamar. Early His- tory of Natchez. The Natchez Indians. The City's Future . 377 CHAPTER XXX. NATCHEZ TO BATON ROUGE. ONE HUNDRED AND SIXTH DAY. Delay at Natchez. A Late Landing. A Late Meeting. ONE HUNDRED AND SEVENTH DAY. Red River. The- " Raft." Numerous Bayous. Tunica Landing. ONE HUNDRED AND EIGHTH DAY. On Board the Steamer Robert E. Lee. ONE HUNDRED AND NINTH DAY. Farewell to the Winns. Bayou Sara. Port Hudson. The Morn- ing Star. ONE HUNDRED AND TENTH DAY. The Eliza Plan- tation. Making Sugar. Baton Rouge. Public Buildings. War History 403 CHAPTER XXXI. BATON ROUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. ONE HUNDRED AND ELEVENTH DAY. Another LateStart. Donald- sonville. Its War History. ONE HUNDRED AND TWELFTH DAY. Rain. Rice-fields. Hospitality of the Negroes. ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTEENTH DAY. More Rain. Orange Groves. A Low Country. Carrollton. Its Beauties. New Orleans, the Crescent City. Its Peculiar Features. In the Civil War. Its Defences Captured. The City Surrendered. Dark Days. Ancient Landmarks. The Levee. The Shell Road. Lake Ponchartrain. General Jackson's Victory. Cemeteries. Mardigras. Present Condition of the City 410 CHAPTER XXXII. NEW ORLEANS TO THE GULF OF MEXICO. END OF VOYAGE. ONE HUNDRED AND FOURTEENTH DAY. Meeting Ocean Steam- ers. Rich Plantations. ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTEENTH DAY. Adieu to English Turn. Salutes from Steamers. A Crowded Lodging-place. ONE HUNDRED AND SIXTEENTH DAY. An Early Start. Luxuriant Fields and Groves. The Jump. ONE HUN- DRED AND SEVENTEENTH DAY. The Last Launch. Pilot Station. Hospitality of Pilots. Port Eads. Captain Eads. His Va- rious Achievements. Robert La Salle. The Voyage Ended . 427 XXIV CONTENTS, CHAPTER XXXIII. THE FATHER OF WATERS. Review of the Mississippi and Its Tributaries. Return to its Source. Bayous of Louisiana. The Red River. The Yazoo and Tom- bigbee. Bay of Mobile. The Arkansas and Colorado Rivers. White and Saint Francis. The Ohio. Chesapeake Bay and At- lantic Ocean. Kaskaskia. Missouri. Illinois. Des Moines, Rock and Turkey Rivers. The Wisconsin and Chippewa. Saint Croix and Minnesota. The Gulf Lakes. The Red River of the North. Gulf of Mexico. Arctic Ocean. What is the Conclu- sion? The Amazon, the Nile and the Mississippi. The King of Rivers . . 439 ILLUSTRATIONS. PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR Frontispiece MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION 27 MAP OF THE HEAD WATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI 33 DINNER WITH FLATMOUTH 39 EMBARKING FOR THE SOURCE OF THE GREAT RIVER. 47 CAMP AMONG THE PlNES 53 MAKING A PORTAGE 61 13OURCE OF THE "FATHER OF WATERS" 69 THE LAKE BEYOND ITASCA 73 RUNNING RAPIDS ON THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI .. 87 Sioux AND CHIPPEWA DANCE Music 107 PARTING WITH CHENOWAGESIC 119 FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY IN 1842 163 FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY IN 1881 169 A VIEW OF MINNEAPOLIS 177 FORT SNELLING 181 (xxv) ILLUSTRATIONS. CITY OF ST. PAUL 187 FALLS OF MINNE-HA-HA 103 VIEW OF LAKE PEPIX 205 RAFT ox THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI 213 LOG-BOOM AND SAW-MILLS 237 AN IOWA TRIBUTARY OF THE MISSISSIPPI 251 BRIDGE BETWEEX DAVENPORT AND ROCK ISLAND 269 SAINT Louis EXPOSITION BUILDING 315 THE SHANTY-BOAT 343 CITY OF VICKSBURG 369 NEGROES PICKING COTTON 375 CUTTING SUGAR CANE 385 SPORT AMONG THE BAYOUS 393 SCENE IN THE LEVEE DISTRICT 401 A RICE FIELD 411 THE CRESCENT CITY 423 SCENE IN AN ORANGE GROVE 429 DISCOVERT OF THE True Source of the Mississippi. CHAPTER I. THE OLD EXPLORERS. 'HILE crossing the continent on horseback from ocean to ocean in 1876 I came to a Bridge which spans the Mississippi be- tween Rock Island, Illinois and Daven- port, Iowa. As I saw the flood of this mighty stream rolling beneath, I turned in imagination to its discovery in 1541 ; I saw the renowned De Soto on its banks and buried in its depths ; I accompanied Marquette from the mouth of the Wisconsin to the mouth of the Arkansas ; I fol- lowed Father Hennepin northward to Saint Anthony Falls, and saw the daring La Salle plant the banner of France on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico. Musing thus upon the exploits of the heroic old ex- plorers who led the way to this grand and peerless river of North America, I felt that it was a subject of much regret, that, although its mouth was discovered by the Chevalier La Salle nearly two hundred years (29) 30 DOWN TEE GREAT RIVER. ago, there was still much uncertainty as to its true source. Within the last century several expeditions have attempted to find the primal reservoir of the Great River ; Pike, Beltrami, and Schoolcraft have each in turn claimed the goal of their explorations ; and numerous lakes, large and small have from time to time enjoyed the honor of standing at the head of the Father of Waters. Schoolcraft finally, in 1832, located a lake which he named Itasca, as the fountain head, and succeeded in securing for it the recognition of geographers and map makers. Notwithstanding the fact, however, that the new claim for geographical honors was very gen- erally accepted as the source, I had frequently been told that many Indians denied that their ideal river had its origin in Lake Itasca, but that there were other lakes and streams above and beyond that lake. These reflections led me to conclude that there was yet a rich field for exploration in the wilds of Minnesota. A combination of unfavorable circumstances pre- vented for several years the accomplishment of my purpose to penetrate to the true source of the Missis- sippi. The month of May, 1881, found me sojourning a few days at Cleveland, Ohio, where I had halted in my journey westward from New York. On the first day of June, I proceeded to Chicago, and from thence to Saint Paul, Minnesota, where I was joined by my brother George, and Barrett Channing Paine, of Indianapolis. The month of June was spent at Saint Paul in preparation. Tents, blankets, guns, ammuni- tion, fishing-tackle, and other equipage necessary to a six weeks' campaign in the wilderness, were provided for the little band which was to form my expedition. THE OLD EXPLORERS. 31 Having completed arrangements, I left Saint Paul on the morning of July Fourth, with Brainerd as my im- mediate objective. Short halts were made at Minneap- olis, Monticello, Saint Cloud and Little Falls, on our way up the river. Brainerd was reached July seventh. This enterprising town is situated at the point where the Northern Pacific Railway crosses the Mississippi; is near the boundary of the Chippewa Indian Reser- vation, and is the nearest place of consequence to Lake Itasca. Here I again halted to further inform myself concerning the topography of the country; to decide upon the most feasible route to my destination, and to provide such extra supplies of rations and cloth- ing as might be considered essential to the success of our enterprise. After consulting maps, I concluded that, while most of the recent explorers had sought its source by going up the stream through Lakes Winni- begoshish, Cass and Bemidji, a more direct course would be by way of Leech Lake and the Kabekanka River. CHAPTER II. THROUGH THE CHIPPEWA COUNTRY. CAREFUL study of the route to Leech Lake, with a few valuable suggestions from Warren Lelaud, an old resident of Brainerd, led me to seek wagon convey- ance to the former place over what is known in northern Minnesota as the Government Road. This road stretches for seventy-five miles through immense pine forests and almost impene- trable underbrush, and the only habitations to be seen from it are the half-way houses, erected for the accom- modation of teamsters who are engaged in hauling Government supplies, and the occasional wigwams of wandering Indians. It was opened in 1856, by James Macaboy, for the convenience of Indian agents and fur traders. Fully equipped and with a driver celebrated for his knowledge of the frontier, we commenced at eight o'clock on the morning of July twelfth our wagon journey to Leech Lake, the third objective in my ex- pedition to the head waters of the Mississippi. John Mouahan, who held the reins in this seventy-five mile journey over one of the roughest roads of Minnesota, is a true son of Erin, who need not take a back seat for Hank Monk, or any of the famous drivers of the border, (32) THROUGH THE CHIPPEWA COUNTRY. 35 A ride of between three and four hours brought our little party to Gull Lake, where a halt was made for rest and refreshments. Gull Lake was for many years the home and head-quarters of the noted Chippewa chief, Hole-in-the-day, and was the scene of many sanguinary struggles between his braves and those of the equally celebrated Sioux chief, Little Crow. The remnant of a block house, fragments of wigwams, and a few scattered graves, are all that is now left to tell the tale of its aboriginal conflicts. A family of four persons, domiciled in a log-house, constitute the entire white population of the place. Reuben Gray, the genial patriarch who presides over this solitary household in the wilderness, delights in the title of landlord, and his hotel has become some- what famous as one of the pioneer half-way houses between Brainerd and Leech Lake. Our arrival at Gull Lake was duly celebrated by launching a canoe, which soon returned with a fine mess of fish. These, with such fruits and vegetables as were in season, afforded a dinner which our appe- tites, whetted by a forenoon's jolting in a country wagon, had fully prepared us to enjoy. After dinner we resumed our journey, with Pine River as the evening destination. Sometimes in the road, sometimes out of it ; now driving along the shore of a lake, and again over huge logs and boulders, it was voted that our ride to Pine River was unlike anything we had ever elsewhere experienced. The ranche of George Barclay, the only white habitation between Gull Lake and Leech Lake, was reached at five o'clock in the evening. Here we were most agreeably surprised to find very good accommo- 36 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. dations for both man and beast. Barclay is a decided favorite with the Indians, and his prosperity in this isolated corner of Minnesota is largely due to his friendly relations with them. He is always supplied with guns, knives, beads, tobacco, and such other goods as are in demand by his dusky neighbors, for which he receives in exchange furs, game, snake-root, and such other products of the forest as find a readv mar- ket at Brainerd or Saint Paul. Much valuable information was obtained at Pine Hiver concerning our route to Leech Lake and beyond, the peculiar traits and characteristics of the Indians whom we were likely to encounter, and those persons at the Agency who could be of most service to us. An excellent breakfast on the following morning, with the prospect of reaching Leech Lake, put my little party in the most exuberant spirits for the day ; and nothing but jolting over one of the most indifferent and rugged roads I have ever encountered could have lessened the enjoyment of our journey. A short halt was made for lunch at Fourteen Mile Lake. This was our first meal in the open air, and enabled us to gauge more accurately our supply of rations. It was readily discovered that we should need at least a third more provisions per diem for our expedition than would be required for the ordinary occupations of indoor life; and I at once decided to provide an ad- ditional supply of bacon and dried meats before pass- ing the Indian Agency. After lunch my brother and Mr. Paine took a bath in the lake, while I found amusement in duck-shooting and chatting with some straggling Chippewas, who were about launching their canoes for a six weeks' hunt- THROUGH THE CHIPPEWA COUNTRY. 37 ing and fishing excursion. These were the first birch- bark canoes I had seen, and were regarded with consider- able interest, as they were indispensable to the success of our undertaking. Curiosity led me to step into one of them, when from want of experience I was precipitated into the lake, much to my own discomfort and chagrin, and the amusement of the Indians. Being unable to swim, I was congratulated upon a capsize in shallow water. Firmly resolved upon more caution in the future, we continued our journey towards Leech Lake, which was reached at four o'clock in the afternoon. r l CHAPTER III. HOME OF THE CHIPPEWA8. PON our arrival at Leech Lake our first glimpse of the embryonic red man was of a boy about six years of age, who ran out of a wigwam his copper-colored skin unadorned by a single garment bran- dishing a bow in one hand, and carrying ar- rows in the other. He was very far from being warlike, however, and on seeing his white brothers suddenly disappeared in the bushes. A little further on we came to several wigwams, and finally to a log- cabin, over the door of which was nailed a pine board, bearing the inscription, " HOTEL." Here we were received by a rough-looking man with long hair and unkempt beard, and wearing in addition to his one other article of clothing a pair of pants made from a red blanket. The prospect was certainly not an inviting one, and no reason was found for forming a more favorable opinion when we had alighted and inspected his squalid accommodations. But as the government officials were away from the post, we accepted the situation, and as graciously as possible placed our names, figuratively speaking, on the register of the Weaver House. We fared much better than we ex- (38) HO ME OF THE CUIPPEWAS. 39 pected, however, dining on fresh fish and potatoes. Our supper and breakfast were selected from the same bill of fare, varied by the addition of " flap-jacks." As a substitute for tenantable beds we swung our ham- mocks from the rafters of the loft. This lake is one of the most peculiarly shaped bodies of water that I remember ever to have looked upon. Its characteristics are most striking, presenting an array of curves, peninsulas and bays rarely encoun- tered even in a State which boasts of ten thousand lakes. Ten islands are found within its bosom, and seven rivers and creeks enter it from various quarters. It extends from north to south not less than twenty miles, and from east to west a still greater distance, with a coast line of nearly four hundred miles. Its waters are deep and clear in all its central parts, and yield the white fish, bass, pickerel and other species. The banks of its numerous and extensive bays abound in wild rice, and attract in the proper season a great variety of water fowl. The pelican, swan, brant and cormorant are the largest of the varieties that annually visit it. On its shores may be found the elk, deer and bear. Beavers were formerly abundant, but they have in a great measure disappeared. The mink and musk- rat afford now the principal items of its fine furs. Such a lake in the midst of a hunting and trapping country is always considered a place of importance, and nearly a hundred years ago Canadian fur traders came through the forests and over the lakes and rivers from Mon- treal to establish a trading post at this point. For many years Leech Lake was the seat of the Chippewa Indian Agency, but the latter is now con- solidated with the White Earth and Red Lake 3 40 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. agencies. Major C. A. Ruffe is at present agent of the three departments, with head-quarters* at White Earth. The village on Leech Lake consists of a half dozen government buildings, as many log-cabins, and twenty or thirty wigwams, scattered here and there near one of the arms of the lake. The day after our arrival the agency was thrown into a state of excitement by the announcement that Major Euffe was en route to Lake Winnibegoshish by way of Leech Lake, and that he was expected to make his advent on the afternoon of the following day. The Major was accompanied by Captain Taylor, of Saint Cloud, one of the pioneer surveyors of Minne- sota; PauTBeaulieu, the veteran government interpreter, and White Cloud, chief of the Mississippis. Major Ruffe was untiring in his efforts to relieve the monotony of our sojourn at the Agency, and to render our condition as agreeable as possible while within the boundary of his dominions. Through conversations with this genial officer I learned much of the pioneer history of the post, and the attempts to civilize the Pillagers, as the Leech Lake Indians are styled. This tribe seems to have seceded from the other Chippewas many hundred years ago, and to have assumed the responsibility of defending this por- tion of the Chippewa border. They " passed armed before their brethren " in their march westward. Their geographical position was such as to compel them to be always on the alert and in every emergency, of which they have encountered no inconsiderable num- ber, they have shown themselves capable of defending their chosen position, and on many trying occasions have won admiration as brave and active warriors. HOME OF THE CHIPPEWAS. 41 Thoroughly accustomed to the practices of the forest, they have achieved many triumphs over their powerful enemies, the Sioux. With a valor seldom equaled and never surpassed, the Pillagers, with smaller numbers, have, on occasions neither few nor unimpor- tant, fallen upon their enemies and vanquished them with a resolution characteristic of Spartan heroes. It is not easy on the part of the Government to repress the feelings of hostility which have so long existed, and to convince them that they have lived into an age when milder maxims furnish the basis of wise action. Pacific counsels fall with little power upon a people situated so remote from every good influence, and who cannot perceive in the restless spirit of their enemies any safeguard for the continuance of a peace, however formally it may have been concluded. The fact was adverted to by one of their chiefs, who observed that they were compelled to fight in self-defence. Although the Sioux had made a solemn treaty of peace with them at Tipisagi in 1825, they were attacked by them that very year, and almost yearly since had sustained insidious or open attacks. "The domestic manners and habits of a people whose position is so adverse to improvement could hardly be expected to present anything strikingly different from other erratic bands of the Northwest. There is indeed a remarkable uniformity in the external habits of all our Northern Indians. The necessity of chang- ing their camps often, to procure game or fish, the wants of domesticated animals, the general dependence on wild rice and the custom of journeying in canoes, have produced a general similarity of life. And it is emphatically a life of want and vicissitude. There is 42 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. a perpetual change between action and inanity of mind which is a striking peculiarity of the savage state. And there is such a general want of forecast that most of their misfortunes and hardships, in war and peace, come unexpectedly. None of the tribes who inhabit this quarter can be said to have, thus far, derived any peculiarities from civilized instruction. The only marked alteration which their state of society has undergone appears to be referable to the era of the introduction of the fur trade, when they were made acquainted with and adopted the use of iron, gunpowder and woollens. This implied a con- siderable change of habits, and of the mode of subsist- ence, and may be considered as having paved the way for further changes in the mode of living and dress. But it brought with it the onerous evil of intemperance, and left the mental habits essentially unchanged." It was a subject of much regret that my arrival at Leech Lake was at a season when the Pillagers were away upon their annual hunting and fishing excur- sions. Their absence from the Agency, was a serious obstacle in the way of our further progress. Being compelled to take the final step in my expedition to the source of the Mississippi from this point, it was important that I should complete my equipment by securing an interpreter, reliable guides and birch-bark canoes. Conversations with Flat Mouth, head chief of the Chippewas, developed the fact that he knew of but one Indian in the Chippewa country who had actually traversed the region which I was about to explore, and that he was then visiting some friends near Lake HOME OF THE CHIPPEWAS. 43 Winnibegoshish, and was not expected to return until the following Saturday, some three days later. Satisfied that Chenowagesic would prove indis- pensable to the success of ray expedition, I decided to await his return to the Agency, The tedium of my so- journ at Leech Lake was broken by a dinner with Flat Mouth, a visit to the missionary, and conversa- tions with Paul Beaulieu concerning the source of the Mississippi. Although for many years I had been much among the natives of the forest, my dinner with Flat Mouth was the first instance of a meal with Indian royalty. Flat Mouth, the present ruler of the Pillagers, is a descendant of Aish-ki-bug-ekozh, the most famous of all the Chippewa chiefs. He is stalwart in appear- ance, and is endowed with talents which certainly en- title him to this distinction. Having accepted his invitation to dinner, I went to his residence at the ap- pointed hour, accompanied by my brother. I found him living in a comfortable log-house of two rooms, well floored and roofed, with a couple of small glass windows. A plain board table stood in the centre of the front room, upon which the dinner was spread. Pine board benches were placed on each side of the table and at the ends. We followed the example of our host in sitting down. Five other persons, includ- ing his wife, were admitted to the meal. The others were White Cloud, chief of the Mississippis,and three Chippewa sub-chiefs. The wife of Flat Mouth sat on his left and waited upon him and those whom he had invited. Tea- cups and teaspoons of plain manufacture were care- fully arranged, the number corresponding exactly with 44 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. the expected guests. A large dish of bass and white fish, cut up and boiled in good taste, was placed in the centre of the table, from which we were served. A birch-bark salt-cellar, in which pepper and salt were mixed in unequal proportion, allowed each the privi- lege of seasoning his fish with both or dispensing with it altogether. Our tea was sweetened with maple sugar. A dish of blueberries, picked on the shore of the lake, completed the dinner. I was much gratified on this occasion by the pres- ence of White Cloud, whom I had frequently been told was the most respectable man in the Chippewa country, and if the term has reference to his intellectual faculties and the power of reaching correct deductions from known premises, and the effect which these have had on his standing and influence with his own tribe, it is not misplaced. Shrewdness and quickness of per- ception most of the chiefs possess; but there is more of the character of common-sense and practical reflec- tion in White Cloud's remarks than I remember to have noticed in any of the chiefs of my acquaintance. In early life this chief was both warrior and counselor, and these distinctions he held not from any hereditary right, but from the force of his own genius. I found him most agreeable in conversation and well informed upon those subjects which were of most interest to him. The sentiments to which he gave expression were such as would naturally occur to a mind which had possessed itself of facts and was quite capable of discussing them. His bearing was grave and dignified, and his oratory such as to render him popular wherever heard. While at dinner the room became filled with Indians, ap- parently the relatives and intimate friends of Flat HOME OF THE CHIPPEWA8. 45 Mouth, who seated themselves orderly and quietly upon the floor. On rising from the table White Cloud addressed me a few moments upon the objects of my expedition. He expressed regret that his white brothers had been so long in ignorance of the source of the Missis- sippi, and said, although he had not himself seen the head of the Great River, there were many braves of his tribe who were familiar with its location. He hoped I had come thoroughly -prepared to explore the country beyond Lake Itasca, and that I would not return to my friends until I had found the true source of the Father of Waters. Continuing, he said : " I am told that Chenowagesic, the Chippewa warrior, will accompany you. He is a good hunter and a faithful guide. He can supply you with game, and paddle your canoe. The Chippewas are your friends, and will give you shelter in their wigwams." " Find Rev. Edwin Benedict as soon as you reach Leech Lake," was the last injunction I received on leaving Brainerd. Mr. Benedict is one of the five missionaries of the Episcopal Church on the Chippewa Reservation, and holds his commission from Bishop Whipple, of Minnesota. With this pleasant gentle- man I spent the greater share of my time while at the Agency, when not engaged in preparations for my journey. The courtesy of a civilized bed, and a table with paper, pens and ink, were luxuries which will not soon pass from my memory. Paul Beaulieu, the half-breed interpreter to Major Ruffe, possesses a fund of information concerning the Upper Mississippi, which cannot be consistently ig- nored by those who are in pursuit of its mysterious 46 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. source; and I considered myself most fortunate in meeting him before my departure for Lake Itasca. Beaulieu deserves more than a passing mention, as lie is a man of large experience, and is well known throughout Minnesota, and in some circles through- out the country. He was born at Mackinaw, while General Sibley was stationed there in the interest of the American Fur Company, of which John Jacob Astor was then the head. His father was a French- man, and his mother an Indian. He received a liberal education partly in the Government school at Macki- naw and partly at Montreal. On leaving school he was employed by the Fur Company and sent all over the United States, from the Saint Lawrence to Lower California. He crossed the continent with the Stevens party on the first Northern Pacific survey, and rendered such valuable services that he was presented a testi- monial in recognition of his efficiency. Beaulieu had a theory of his own regarding the source of the Mississippi, based upon the stories of Indians of his acquaintance. Referring to this sub- ject, he said that to the west of Lake Itasca there was another lake, the outlet of which unites with the stream from the former lake, and which contributes a much larger volume of water at the junction than the outlet of Itasca. He therefore assumed that this nameless and almost unknown lake was the true source of the Mississippi. In corroboration of the Beaulieu theory, Major Ruffe said that he had heard the same idea expressed by a number of old Indian voyageurs. It will thus be seen that there was a great diversity of opinion among the best informed authorities as to the actual source of the Great River. CHAPTER IV. EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. I PON the return of Chenovvagesic and other Indians a council was held, and my object stated to them. They were requested to delineate maps of the country, and to furnish an interpreter, guides and canoes. Chenowagesic said : " My brother, the country you are going to visit is ray hunting ground. I have hunted there many years, and planted corn on the shores of Lake Itasca. My father, now an old man, remembers the first white chief who came to look for the source of the Great River. But, my brother, no white man has yet seen the head of the Father of Waters. I will myself furnish the maps you have called for, and will guide you onward. There are many lakes and rivers in the way, but the waters are favorable. I will talk with my friends about the canoes, and see who will step forward to furnish them. My own canoe shall be one of the number." But a few hours were required to complete the maps, and on the following morning, July seventeenth, three Chippewas, including Chenowagesic, brought each a canoe and laid it down on the shore of the lake. One other Chippewa expressed a willingness to accom~ (49) 50 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. pany us to the mouth of the Kabeknnka River. These with Mr. Paine, my brother and myself, and our lug- gage, were distributed equally in the three canoes secured by Chenowagesic. A large number of Indians, most of whom were the relatives and friends of our guides, assembled near the point from which we had decided to launch. The wind blew briskly from the North, making the surface of the lake quite rough for canoe navigation, and it was with some distrust that we stepped gingerly into the canoes and took our appointed positions at the imminent risk of capsizing them by our awkwardness. The Indian guides took their places at the stern, with instructions to act as pilots. Rev. Mr. Benedict, who accompanied me to the place of embarkation, now stepped to the water's edge, and seizing the stern of my canoe, gave us the launch. A waving of hats by way of farewell to those who had come down to the shore to see us oif, and our birchen fleet got under way and glided out into the deep water of the lake, pro- pelled by the lusty strokes of the voyageurs, and our own faint attempts in the same direction. An hour's vigorous paddling took us across the arm of the lake on which the Agency is situated, and then a short portage over a point of land brought us to a much larger body of water, where the wind and the waves had a sweep of from fifteen to twenty miles. We coasted along the shore for some distance, and then headed directly across the lake for the mouth of the Kabekanka River. The waves ran high, and our canoes rose lightly on them, sinking again with a swash into the trough, and splashing the water over our bows. Gradually we became somewhat accustomed EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. 51 to tills, and gained sufficient confidence to gaze around at the broad expanse of lake and sniff the fresh and invigorating breeze which at the outset had caused us so much uneasiness. Between two and three hours of persistent work with our paddles brought us to an inlet through which the Kabekanka empties ; and, forcing our way through the rushes, with which its mouth is filled, we ascended the stream, and at about eleven o'clock came upon a small lake formed by an expansion of the river. Paddling to the upper end of it, we landed, and, hav- ing built a fire, had our first meal in the open air. Re-embarking, we continued our course up the Kabe- kanka. As we ascended, the river became narrower and swifter, and the wild rice which at first filled its shallow bed gave place to snags and driftwood, through which it was almost impossible to force our canoes. We had nearly reached the conclusion that we could go no farther in the canoes, when we came to what seemed to be a pond of still water filled with rushes. This pond, we soon discovered, was the outlet of a large and beautiful lake not less than seven miles long, into whose tranquil waters we burst with a shout of glad- ness. The sun was now well down towards the western horizon, and the question of supper and a camp-ground began to agitate the minds of my companions. Con- tinuing our course, we paddled slowly up the lake, trolling for fish as we prospected for a suitable spot on which to pitch our tents. A model camp-ground was soon located on a bluff near the lake, wooded with Norway pines, and sloping rather abruptly to the water. 52 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Our trolling was rewarded with a fine mess of pickerel ; so we landed at once, and the fire of our first camp was soon crackling merrily. The guides prepared supper, while my brother and Paine pitched tents and swung their hammocks among the pines. The zest with which we relished our supper of fish, enhanced by the addition of canned dainties from the civilized world, can readily be imagined ; and as we smoked the pipe of contentment under the shelter of the grand old pines, we felt that the hardships which had been predicted for our voyage had been greatly magnified. After discussing the events of the day, we retired to our tents, or rather were driven thither by clouds of mosquitoes which, ignoring the smoke of our camp-fire, began their onslaughts as soon as the light of day disappeared. Paine attempted to find peaceful slumber in his hammock, but was soon sung and stung into a hasty retreat to the tent which George had, with some care, made mosquito-proof. A grand mosquito serenade was now inaugurated, which con- tinued without interruption until the sun appeared above the lake. Fortunate, indeed, for us that we were beyond their reach. We struck tents at break of day on the morning of July eighteenth, and, launching our canoes, paddled to the upper end of the lake, where we disembarked and had breakfast. Learning from Chenowagesic that the Indians had no name for this beautiful body of water, I desig- nated it " Garfield " in honor of our President, James Abram Garfield. At the head of Lake Garfield we reached the ter- minus of uninterrupted water communication, and I EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. 55 was informed by my guides that a portage of between two and three miles lay before us. In blissful ignor- ance of what a portage really was, this announcement had no terror for us, and we gayly packed our traps into convenient bundles for carrying. The Indians had, in the meantime, prepared packs for themselves weighing upwards of a hundred pounds, which they rolled in their blankets and secured with a strap which was passed over the forehead, allowing the pack to rest on their shoulders. On top of this they each placed a canoe, bottom upwards, resting it on the pack by means of a cross-bar, and thus loaded started through what seemed to us a trackless forest. Following the lead of our guides, we shouldered our guns and kept up as best we could, for their pace at times increased almost to a run. The undergrowth was so dense that w r e could not see where to put our feet, and were only guided by the white bottoms of the canoes in front of us. On we went, up hill and down, over logs and through bogs, barking our shins, scratching our faces on the rough limbs, panting for breath, the perspiration flowing in rivulets from every pore, and bitten by countless mosquitoes, until it seemed that we could proceed no farther; still the guides trotted along with Their burdens, showing not the least sign of fatigue. At last, however, as we were about to drop from sheer exhaustion, the guides halted and deposited packs and canoes on the ground, rolled out from under them, and, after a smile at us, began picking blueberries which were found in great abundance near by. As for myself and white com- panions, we threw ourselves down almost breathless, without even energy enough to fight the mosquitoes. 56 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Eager to reach higher ground, we again shouldered our luggage, and were soon on the trail following in the footsteps of Chenowagesic. Pushing rapidly for- ward, we gained the top of a hill at eleven o'clock, where we halted for rest and refreshment. Being out of mosquito range in this elevated region, we spent a few hours very pleasantly while the guides served din- ner and carried the canoes and luggage forward to the next lake. As soon as we were sufficiently recovered from the fatigues of the morning, we returned to the trail which had been our line of march since leaving Lake Gar- field. On descending the hill we were again beset by clouds of mosquitoes in short, to parody Tennyson, there were Mosquitoes to right of us, Mosquitoes to left of us, Mosquitoes all around us, Singing and stinging. A few rods from the foot of the hill we came to a lake, the first of a chain of five lakes having for their outlet a small river known to the Indians as the Gabe- kanazeba, which in Chippewa means portage. Once more on the water, we pulled through three lakes alternated by as many portages, and at night en- camped on the shore of a fourth lake. On the follow- ing morning we were astir at dawn. Had breakfast at sunrise, and by seven o'clock were again in our canoes paddling toward Itasca. The fifth and last of the portage chain was reached at ten o'clock. Learn- ing from my guides that these beautiful lakes had never before, to their knowledge, been seen by white men, I named them successively Bayard, Stoneman, Plea-santon, Custer and Kilpatrick, as a tribute to the EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. 57 favorite Union cavalry leaders of the late war patriot soldiers who deserve well of their country, and to whose calls I had often responded in the campaigns of the Army of the Potomac. After crossing Lake Kilpatrick another string of portages was encountered, aggregating for the day no less than eight, alternating with as many lakes, all small, some of them being little more than ponds, ex- cept three which terminate the portage chain. Con- tinuing my cavalry column, I named these three lakes, which are fine bodies of water, successively Gregg, Davies and Sheridan ; after General Gregg of Penn- sylvania, under whom I served for a short period during the Gettysburg campaign ; General Davies of New York, on whose recommendation I received my first commission, and who rose from the rank of a major in my old regiment, the Harris Light Cavalry, to that of major-general and the command of the Cavalry Corps under Grant; and after that true knight of cavalry, Lieutenant-General Philip Henry Sheridan, hero of Cedar Creek and Five Forks. Towards evening we reached the largest sheet of water between Leech Lake and Lake Itasca, the In- dian name of which translated is Blue Snake Lake. We crossed this lake at a point where its width is about five miles, and carried our canoes to the summit of a narrow strip of land which separates it from another lake of less than half its size. Here, as else- where during our journey and voyage through Min- nesota, we found blueberries in great abundance, and it was with much difficulty that I persuaded my com- panions to perform their duties before they had satis- fied their cravings for this delicious fruit. 58 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. As soon as we had decided upon a camp-ground, Paine and Chenowagesic pitched tents, my brother launched his canoe in quest of fish, while Moses La- gard, the interpreter, and his half-brother Sebatise pre- pared supper. After attending to the duties of the camp, I went down to the lake which we had just crossed, and strolled along the white sand beach of its western shore. Tracks of the wolf and deer were frequently seen in the sand the first evidences of wild game in our journey. Retracing my steps I met George, who was just returning with a fine mess of bass, which, with corned beef and a small quantity of bread sup- plied by Lagard, afforded us an excellent meal, which all were fully prepared to enjoy. The mosquitoes, our inveterate enemies, did not neglect us here. On the contrary, they began their nightly orgies upon the going down of the sun ; where- upon we dampened the ardor of their spirits in a meas- ure by throwing a cordon of subdued fires entirely around our little camp at intervals of from ten to fifteen feet. We now enjoyed the alternative of endur- ing the smoke within the camp or fighting the mosqui- toes without. Next morning we had breakfast at five o'clock, struck tents at six, and a few moments later launched our canoes upon the beautiful lake which is a companion to the one we had crossed the previous evening. The first and largest of these lakes I called George, after my brother George, of Chicago, who accompanied me from Brainerd to the source of the Mississippi and thence to La Crosse in my descent of the river ; the other I named Paine, after my constant companion, EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. 59 Barrett Charming Paine, of Indianapolis, Indiana, who stood at its head, drank from its farthest springs, and subsequently shared the privations, dangers and tri- umphs of my canoe voyage down the Great River to the sea. Crossing Lake Paine, we made another portage of half a mile, which brought us to a small river known among the Chippewas as the Naiwa. Chenowage- sic explained that the Naiwa was a stream of consider- able length, having its origin in a lake which is in- fested with snakes, to which its name has reference. This lake I called Chenowagesic, after my faithful guide, and its outlet, the Naiwa, I denominated Lagard Kiver, in honor of our interpreter. We descended Lagard River between five and six miles, and then portaged westward to another small river, with which it unites a few miles below. We found the new stream more decidedly marshy in the character of its shores, but not presenting in its plants or trees anything to distinguish it particularly from the Lagard. The water is still and pond-like. It presents some small areas of wild rice, and appears to be a favorite resort for the duck and teal, which fre- quently rose up before us, and were aroused again and again by our progress. Four hours of energetic paddling brought us to the foot of a lake where we halted a few moments to sur- vey. This lake presents a broad border of aquatic plants with somewhat blackish waters. It is the recipient of two brooks and may be considered as the source of the Eastern fork of the Mississippi. While passing through the lake we caine upon several broods of mallard ducks, and my companions 4 60 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. were not slow in testing their fowling pieces. A broadside from rifle, shot-gun and revolver was simultaneously opened, but, much to the chagrin of those who fired, only one duck was killed. The water fowl encountered here seem to exult in their seclusion, and evinced the infrequency of intrusion by flying a short distance and alighting within range of our fire-arms. We were about twenty minutes in traversing this lake, which I named Elvira, in memory of my eldest sister. Entering one of the brooks at its southern end we paddled up stream about thirty or forty rocls, when we appeared to be involved in a morass where it seemed difficult either to make the land or advance further. In this we \vere not mistaken. Chenowagesic soon pushed his canoe into the rushes and exclaimed : "Oma mikunna" here is the portage. A man who is called on for the first time to debark in such a place will cast about for some dry spot to put his feet upon. No such spot, however, existed here. We stepped into rather warm pond-water, with a miry bottom. After wading a hundred yards or more the soil became firm, and we began to ascend a slight elevation, where the growth partook more of the character of a forest. Traces of a path appeared here, and we suddenly entered an opening which afforded an eligible place for landing. Evidences of former fires, the bones of birds, and scattered camp-poles indicated that it had previously been visited by Indians, whose migratory and undo- mesticated habits are of a character to create in the mind a suspicion of their determination never to be- come civilized and stationary. Having ascended this fork of the Mississippi EXPLORA TlOtf AXD DISCO VER Y. 63 to its source, it may be noted that it has not as yet been given a place as a separate river in our geography. None of the maps indicate the ultimate separation of the Mississippi above Lake Bemidji into two forks. It is a matter of much surprise that this river should have been kept so long in darkness, especially when we consider the fact that its presence was known to white men nearly fifty years ago. I christened it De Soto River, as a tribute to the dis- coverer of the Mississippi, who though he failed to find gold and glory in the great valley which had lured him through the American wilderness, rendered a valuable contribution to the geographical knowl- edge of the sixteenth century. The sun was rapidly sinking behind the hills as we reached dry land, and being nearly exhausted by the portages of the day, and in want of refreshment, a camp-ground was at once decided upon, and prepara- tions for. supper begun. It was at this point that we first discovered a deficiency in our supply of rations. At the outset we counted largely upon our fire-arms and fishing-tackle to reinforce our bacon and canned meats; thus far, however, but one duck had been killed, and, as com- pared with our former estimates, but few fish had been caught. Then, as a climax to our embarrass- ments, my brother had the misfortune to lose the trolling hooks and nearly all the ammunition while passing through a bog in the last portage. Much powder and ball had also been consumed by my white companions, who sought to test their marks- manship upon every animate object along our line of march. A strict adherence to truth compels me to G4 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. say that up to this time, much to their chagrin, the entire outlay of ammunition resulted in caging but the one duck previously alluded to. We were now not less than seven days from the trading post at Cass Lake, and with only about two days' rations. Not even an Indian could be found in that lonely region with whom to parley for food. It may be safely concluded that before we retired to our tents that night we looked our project squarely in the face. Despatch in our onward progress was earnestly recommended. An equal distribution of rations, and the most rigid economy in the use of ammunition, was also insisted upon. A dense fog which completely enveloped the swamp in our immediate front prevented our getting upon the trail until seven o'clock in the morning of July twenty-first, and it was even then impossible to distin- guish objects at a distance of twenty yards. While wait- ing for the fog to raise, a small flock of pigeons dropped into the tops of some tall pines near by. George and Paine were inclined to observe their usual practice of discharging their fire-arms ; but, as I considered the pigeons out of range, I reminded them that no more ammunition could be thrown away upon uncertainties. The distance from the eastern to the western branch of the Mississippi is between six and seven miles. Beginning in a marsh the portage soon reaches a slight elevation covered with a growth of cedar, spruce, white pine and tamarack; then plunges into a swamp matted with fallen trees, obscured by moss. From the swamp the trail emerges upon dry ground, whence it soon ascends an elevation of oceanic sand, presenting } ulders and bearing pines. There is then another EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY. 65 descent and another elevation. In short, this portage carried us over a series of diluvial sand-ridges which form the height of land between the Mississippi and Red River of the North. It may be said that these ridges constitute the table-land between the waters of Hudson's Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, and give riso to the remotest tributaries of the River Saint Louis> which through Lake Superior and its connecting chain maybe considered as furnishing the head-waters of the Saint Lawrence. This is unquestionably the highest land of North America between the Alleghenies and Rocky Mountains. Chenowagesic led the way while crossing this high- land, followed by the other guides, each carrying as usual a canoe and a portion of the luggage. George, Paine and myself moved forward on the trail in Indian file. As soon as all were in motion we pushed rapidly along, stopping occasionally for rest. The Chippewas denominate each of these stops opugid- jewinon, or a place of putting down the burden. Thirteen of these halts were given by Chenowagesic as the distance to Lake Itasca. The trail is often ob- scured by a dense undergrowth, and requires the precision of an Indian eye to detect it. Even the guide was sometimes disconcerted, and went forward to explore. About midway of the portage we came to a small lake, into which we quickly put the canoes and pulled for the opposite shore. The route beyond was more obstructed by underbrush. To avoid this we waded through the margins of a couple of ponds, near which we observed old camp-poles, indicating former journeys of the Chippewas. We found the weather much warmer than we had an- 66 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. ticipated for Northern Minnesota, and not favorable to much exertion in bird or beast. Several flocks of pigeons and other birds common to northern lati- tudes were frequently observed. Tracks of deer were numerous in the marshes skirting the ponds, but traveling without the precaution required in hunt- ing, we had no opportunity of seeing this animal in the high grounds. Ripe strawberries were found on the hillsides, and a very small species of the rasp- berry was brought to me by Chenowagesic at one of the resting-places. The student of botany would consider the plants few and of little consequence. On turning out of a thicket at the foot of the last elevation, between three and four o'clock in the after- noon, our longing eyes rested upon the waters of Lake Itasca. A few moments later we were floating on its placid bosom, and, after a pull of between two and three miles, reached Schoolcraft Island. This island derives its name from Henry Howe Schoolcraft, who discovered Itasca in 1832, and located it as the source of the Mississippi. Hitherto the claim of Schoolcraft has been unques- tioned, and for half a century Lake Itasca has enjoyed the honor of standing at the head of the Father of Waters. The island is about three-quarters of an acre in extent, and so densely studded with under- growth that we experienced much difficulty in clearing a place for our tents. We found here but two or three trees worthy of notice, the most prominent of which was a tall, gray pine, and on this Paine blazed our names and the date of our encampment. Itasca is in every respect a beautiful lake, between five and six miles in length, and from one-fourth to EXPL OR A TION AND DISCO VER Y. 67 three-fourths of a mile in width. It has three arms one to the southeast, three miles long; one extending to the southwest from the island ; and one reaching northward to the outlet two and a half miles. Its greatest length is from southeast to northwest. I asked Chenowagesic the Chippewa name of this lake, and he replied "Ornushkos," which means Elk. Schoolcraft tells us that the word Itasca is derived from the mythological and necromantic notions of the Chippewas concerning the origin and mutations of the country. We were in no condition to enjoy our delightful surroundings at this point, in consequence of the re- duced state of our supplies. Determined upon a thorough exploration of the region adjacent to Lake Itasca, we were now confronted with a subject for serious consideration. We were at least six days from the nearest post of relief, and entirely out of rations, with the exception of a small piece of bacon and a few pounds of flour. The trolling-hooks were lost, and there were but sixty-five rounds of ammuni- tion left. In this dilemma my white companions fa- vored exploration. The Indians preferred an imme- diate descent of the river. CHAPTER V. TRUE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 'HE exhausting portages of July twenty- first, between the east and west forks of the Mississippi, prepared us for a sleep which even the Minnesota mosquitoes could not disturb, and which was not broken until long after the sun was glinting upon us through the trees on the morning of the twenty- second. Although I had cautioned the guides to awaken me at dawn, I found them snoring lustily at six o'clock. As soon as all were astir, Chenowagesic and the Lagards prepared breakfast. George struck tents and rolled the blankets, while Paine busied himself with an article for the Saint Paul Pioneer Press, descriptive of our voyage to Lake Itasca. But little ceremony was observed at breakfast, which was served with a due regard to our scant rations, and consisted of a small slice of bacon and a "flap-jack," each of very meagre dimensions. Notwithstanding the fact that we were now con- fronted with empty haversacks and nearly depleted cartridge boxes, my companions were still eager to follow my lead in the work of exploration beyond Itasca, which, from the beginning, had been the con- (68) TRUE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. QQ trolling incentive of our expedition, the grand objective towards which we bent all our energies. To stand at the SOURCE; to look upon the remotest rills and springs which contribute to the birth of the Great River of North America; to write finis in the volume opened by the renowned De Soto, more than three hundred years ago, and in which Marquette, La Salle, Hennepin, La Hontan, Carver, Pike, Beltrami, Schoolcraft and Nicollet have successively inscribed their names, were quite enough to revive the droop- ing spirits of the most depressed. During our encampment on the island Chenowa- gesic again reminded me that he had planted corn there many years before, and that his wigwam once stood near the spot where we had pitched our tents. He also repeated what he had told me before launching the canoes at Leech Lake, that the region about Lake Itasca was his hunting ground, and that he was thoroughly acquainted with all the rivers, lakes and ponds within a hundred miles. He further said that Paul Beaulieu was in error concerning the source of the Great River, and led me to conclude that the primal reservoir was above and beyond Itasca, and that this lake was simply an expansion of the Missis- sippi, as are Bemidji, Cass, Winuibegoshish, Pepin and several others. Fully convinced that the statements of Chenowa- gesic were entirely trustworthy, and knowing from past experience that he was perfectly reliable as a guide, we put our canoes into the water at eight o'clock, and at once began coasting Itasca for its feeders. We found the outlets of six small streams, two having well-defined mouths, and four filtering 70 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. into the lake through bogs. The upper end of the southwestern arm is heavily margined with reeds and rushes, and it was not without considerable difficulty that we forced our way through this barrier into the larger of the two open streams which flow into this end of the lake. Although perfectly familiar with the topography of the country, and entirely confident that he could lead us to the beautiful lake which he had so often described, Chenowagesic was for several moments greatly disturbed by the net- work of rushes in which we found ourselves temporarily entangled. Leaping from his canoe, he pushed the rushes right and left with his paddle, and soon, to our great delight, threw up his hands and gave a characteristic " Chippewa yell," thereby signifying that he had found the object of his search. Returning, he seized the bow of my canoe, and pulled it after him through the rushes out into the clear, glistening waters of the infant Missis- sippi, which, at the point of entering Itasca, is seven feet wide, and from twelve to fifteen inches deep. Lusty work with our paddles for half an hour brought us to a blockade of fallen timber. Determined D to float in my canoe upon the surface of the lake towards which we were paddling, I directed the guides to remove the obstructions, and continued to urge the canoes rapidly forward, although opposed by a strong and constantly increasing current. Sometimes we found it necessary to lift the canoes over logs, and occasionally to remove diminutive sand-bars from the bed of the stream with our paddles. As we neared the head of this primal section of the mighty river, we could readily touch both shores with our hands at TRUE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 71 the same time, while the average depth of water in the channel did not exceed ten inches. Every paddle stroke seemed to increase the ardor with which we were carried forward. The desire to see the actual source of a river so celebrated as the Mississippi, whose mouth had been reached nearly two centuries before, was doubtless the impelling mo- tive. In their eagerness to obtain the first view of the beautiful lake toward which we were paddling, and greatly annoyed by the slow progress made in the canoes, my brother and Paine stepped ashore and proposed a race to the crest of the hill which Cheno- wagesic told them overhung the lake. To this proposition of my companions I made objection, and insisted that all should see the goal of our expedition from the canoes. What had long been sought at last appeared suddenly. On pulling and pushing our way through a net-work of rushes, similar to the one en- countered on leaving Itasca, the cheering sight of a transparent body of water burst upon our view. It was a beautiful lake the SOURCE of the FATHER OF WATERS. A few moments later, and our little flotilla of three canoes was put in motion, headed for a small prom- ontory which we discovered at the opposite end of the lake. We paddled slowly across one of the most pure and tranquil bodies of water of which it is pos- sible to conceive. Not a breath of air was stirring. We halted frequently to scan its shores, and to run our eyes along the verdure-covered hills which enclose its basin. These elevations are at a distance of from three to four miles, and are covered chiefly with white pines, intermingled with the cedar, spruce and tama- 72 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. rack. The beacli is fringed with a mixed foliage of the evergreen species. At one point we observed pond lilies, and at another a small quantity of wild rice. As we neared the headland, a deer was seen stand- ing on the shore, and an eagle swept over our heads with food for its young, which we soon discovered were lodged in the top of a tall pine. The waterfowl noticed upon the lake were apparently little disturbed by our presence, and seldom left the surface of the water. This lake is about a mile and a half in greatest diameter, and would be nearly an oval in form but for a single promontory which extends its shores into the lake so as to give it in outline the appearance of a heart. Its feeders are three small creeks, two of which enter on the right and left of the headland, and have their origin in springs at the foot of sand-hills from five to six miles distant. The third is but little more than a mile in length, has no clearly de- fined course, and is the outlet of a small lake situated in a marsh to the south westward. These three creeks were named in the order of their discovery : Eagle, Excelsior and Deer. The small lake, which is the source of Eagle Creek, I called Alice, after my daughter. Having satisfied myself as to its remotest feeders, I called my companions into line at the foot of the promontory which overlooks the lake, and talked for a few moments of the Mississippi and its explorers, tell- ing them I was confident that we were looking upon the TRUE SOURCE of the Great River, and that we had completed a work begun by De Soto, in 1541, and TRUE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 76 had corrected a geographical error of half a century's standing. Concluding my remarks, I requested a volley from their fire-arms for each member of the party, in commemoration of our discovery. When the firing ceased, Paine gave me a surprise, by step- ping to the front and proposing " that the newly dis- covered lake be named Glazier, in honor of the leader of the expedition." The proposition was seconded by Moses Lagard, the interpreter, and carried by accla- mation, notwithstanding my protest that it should retain its Indian name, Po-keg-a-ma. Much to the surprise of every one, as we were about closing our ceremonies, Chenowagesic assumed an oratorical attitude, and addressed me as follows, in a few words of true Indian eloquence. *' My brother, I have come with you through many lakes and rivers to the head of the Father of Waters. The shores of this lake are ray hunting-ground. Here I have had my wigwam and planted corn for many years. When I again roam through these forests, and look on this lake, source of the Great River, I will look on you." The latitude of this lake is not far from 47. Its height above the sea is an object of geographical interest, which, in the absence of actual survey, it may subserve the purposes of useful inquiry to estimate. From notes taken during the ascent it cannot be less than three feet above Lake Itasca. Adding the estimate of 1575 feet submitted by Schoolcraft in 1832, as the elevation of that lake, the Mississippi may be said to originate in an altitude of 1578 feet above the Atlantic Ocean. Taking former estimates as the basis and computing them through the western fork, its length may be placed at 3184 miles. Assuming 76 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. that the barometrical height of its source is 1578 feet, it has a mean descent of over six inches per mile. At Lake Bemidji the Mississippi reaches its highest northing, which is in the neighborhood of 47. The origin of the river in an untraveled and secluded region between Leech Lake and the Red River of the North, not less than a degree of latitude south of Turtle Lake, which was for a long time supposed to be the source, i^emoves both forks of the stream out- side the usual track of the fur-traders, and presents a good reason, perhaps, why its fountain-head has re- mained so long enveloped in uncertainty. CHAPTER VI. DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. JFtrst Pan. CAMP DISCOVERY, Ten Miles Below Lake Itasca, July 22, 1881. TANDING at the source of the Missis- sippi, around which so many beautiful Indian legends cluster, and about which the white man has ever had much curiosity, I trust I felt a natural throb of pride in contemplation of the fact that at least a portion of my plan had been successfully executed ; I had also a confident belief that the future held further good in store for us. All being ready, and with the exclamation, "Now for the Gulf of Mexico ! " I directed the canoes to be put into the water, and in a moment more we were on our way back to Lake Itasca; our speed greatly accelerated by the prospect of soon reaching our rations, which, for convenience, had been left with the luggage on Schoolcraft Island. This pull down to Itasca \vas in reality the first step in my voyage from source to sea, for as yet but a small portion of the undertaking had been realized. The old ex- plorers had only navigated portions of the Great (77) 78 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. River. It was my purpose to descend its entire course from the remotest springs in the wilds of Minnesota to its outlet in the Gulf of Mexico. I desired to be- come familiar with the most striking features of the Mighty River, and to study, through personal inter- course, the varying phases of American life and character upon its banks. No one had ever attempted this before, and it is hardly probable that any one will ever attempt it again, for the perils of a voyage of over three thousand miles in an open canoe are not purely imaginary. And yet this was the only way in which I could practically and satisfactorily accom- plish my purpose of making careful observations along the route traversed. On our way down Itasca, my brother improvised a trolling-hook by twisting a piece of wire from a tin can into the form of a hook, and by using a small piece of red flannel as a decoy, caught two fine pickerel. Just as we were nearing the island, Lagard, the interpreter, called my attention to a bald eagle sitting on a log, with a large, black bass in his talons, which he had evidently taken from the water but a moment before. A shot from my revolver had no other effect than to lead him to drop his prey, which, with the fish already caught by George, made a most acceptable meal for our little party, who now began to realize the extremity to which we were reduced. A few ounces of flour, and not more than two pounds of bacon, was at this time the sum total of our reserve rations ; and yet we were seven days from the nearest trading post. Dinner over at the island, we hastily re-embarked and continued our course down Itasca. The outlet BOULDERS AND FALLEN TREES. 79 lies to the northwest of the island, and proved to be a brisk brook, with a mean width of ten feet, and a depth of from fifteen to twenty inches. The water is exceedingly clear, and we at once found ourselves glid- ing over a sandy and pebbly bottom, strewed with the scattered valves of shell-fish, at a lively rate. Its banks are overhung with limbs and branches covered with foliage, which sometimes reach across and inter- lace. The bends are short, and have accumulations of flood wood, so that we often found it necessary to clear a passage with our axes. The Indians fre- quently suggested a portage, to which I invariably objected, being determined to paddle my canoe down the entire course of the Mississippi where possible. There was constant danger of running against boulders of black rock, lying along the margin or piled up in the channel of the stream ; and nothing but the most strenuous efforts on the part of our pilots preserved our canoes from immediate destruction. As the ve- locity of the current increased, we were hurled, as it were, through the narrow gorges, and would have de* scended at a prodigiously rapid rate had it not been for these interruptions to navigation. The course of the river was northwesterly. After descending about ten miles, it enters a savanna where the channel is wider and deeper, but equally irregular. This extends some seven or eight miles. It then breaks its way through a pine ridge, where the channel is again very much confined and rapid, the rushing, tearing current threatening every moment to dash the canoes into a thousand pieces. The pilots were often in the water to guide the canoes, or stood ever ready with their paddles to fend off. 5 80 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. We disembarked and pitched tents in a grove of poplars on the right bank, directly opposite the mouth of the first stream that enters the Mississippi below Lake Itasca. This tributary is evidently the one to which Paul Beaulieu referred in his conversation with me at Leech Lake, and which he supposed might lead to the true source of the Mississippi. A careful in- vestigation established the fact that Beaulieu was in error, and confirms the theory that the lake located and named by our party is the fountain head. Although a small stream, I deemed it of sufficient importance to be styled a river, and bestowed upon it the name of the zealous missionary and explorer, Marquette. Marquette River is some fifteen miles in length, has two small tributaries and is the outlet of four beauti- ful lakes which I named after Captain Charles Gordinier Hampton, of Detroit, Michigan ; Lieu- tenant John Arthur Richardson, of Albany, New York ; Moses W. Lemon, of Canton, New York, and John W. Wright, of Des Moines, Iowa; companions of my imprisonment and escapes during the war of the Rebellion. Reflecting upon the Mississippi and its thousand tributaries, it is perhaps but a natural sentiment that the first to enter and pay tribute is entitled to more than a passing notice. In its onward march, the mighty river will take to its bosom, among others, the Min- nesota, St. Croix, Des Moines, Wisconsin, Missouri, Illinois, Ohio, Yazoo, Arkansas and Red, all among the first rivers of the world, and yet their position on the family tree is not more important than the little Marquette, which bears the same relation to its source that the great Red River does to its mouth. If one O UT OF HA TIONS. 8 1 is last, the other is first to swell its ever increasing flood. Our camp opposite the mouth of the Marquette will long be remembered by my companions as the place where we first felt the gnawings of hunger, for it was here that the last of our rations was consumed, and we retired to our tents with appetites half satis- fied after a day of unusual fatigue; add to empty haversacks the tortures of our inveterate enemies, the mosquitoes, and the reader will have some idea of our situation at the close of the first day in the descent of the Mississippi. CAMP OTTER, Fifteen Miles Below Marquette River, July Twenty-third. We struck tents at six o'clock in the morning, and a few moments later were in our canoes and again descending the river. I immediately took position in the bow of the leading canoe with shotgun in hand, ready for game of any description which might appear in our front, for we were now entirely destitute of rations, with but little ammunition, and our fishing tackle in the bogs beyond Itasca. It was at once ap- parent that for some days at least, our explorations would lie more in the direction of food than the topography of the country. My companions were cautioned to keep a sharp lookout for evidences of animal life on the banks of the river, while the guides were instructed to be on the alert for ducks, as the Chippewas are adepts in killing many varieties of waterfowl by means of their paddles. 82 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. The same order in our descent of the river had thus far been adhered to which was observed in the voyage to Lake Itasca, the stream being still so narrow as to necessitate our moving forward in In- dian file. Moses Lagard continued with me as pilot in the first canoe, which had been christened " Dis- covery " by Paine. My brother followed with Cheno- wagesic, in the Alice, named after my daughter, while Mr. Paine, with Sebatise Lagard, brought up the rear in the Itasca. We had been in our canoes but a few moments when my attention was drawn to a slight ripple on the sur- face of the water. An instant later I saw a small, black object pointing down stream about twenty yards in advance of my canoe. Moses Lagard cried out at the top of his voice, " Shoot him ! Shoot him, Captain ! " Suiting the action to the word, I at once fired, and a moment later had the satisfaction of pull- ing in an otter, one of the finest prizes of our voyage; and, as will soon appear, a rare piece of good fortune at this time. Although many years before I had been counted something of a trapper, this was the first otter I had seen, and, as may be well supposed, was some- what elated with my shot and trophy. The guides unanimously voted me a great hunter, as is the custom of the Chippewas whenever a member of their tribe kills this animal. Turning a bend in the river, a brood of ducks next received our attention. A round from the shotgun put two juveniles on their backs, and sent the re- mainder under the surface apparently frightened by the discharge. The crews of both the Alice and Itusca were soon at the scene of action, the Indians PADDLING FOR DUCKS. 83 screaming and gesticulating in the wildest manner in order to keep the ducks under water. An exciting chase now ensued, in which Indian skill in the use of the paddle was fully demonstrated. Eagerly watching for some evidence of the presence of his game, the prac- tised eye of Chenowagesic readily got its bearings. A few sharp strokes of his paddle brought him in range, and then raising the paddle to a perpendicular, he sent it straight to the back of his prey. Another duck was captured in the same manner by Sebatise, which, with the two brought down by the shotgun, gave us a light breakfast, as all the ducks were young and small. My companions insisted that their leader should have one duck entirely to himself, but to this I objected, saying that whatever fortune had in store for us should always be equally divided. Greatly encouraged by the good luck of the morn- ing, it now seemed that if we had sufficient ammuni- tion, or if the guides should be successful in paddling for game, we might pull through to the trading post at Lake Bemidji without serious difficulty. But right here was the rub : we had but twenty-three rounds of ammunition left, and while fortune had favored us once at least with the paddles, there was a much larger proportion of chance than certainty for the fu- ture. Breakfast over, we were soon again gliding rapidly down the river, our speed greatly accelerated by a constantly increasing current. The strong rapids con- tinued at intervals, and were rendered more dangerous by limbs of trees which stretched across the stream, threatening to sweep everything movable out of the canoes. In consequence of these obstructions all 84 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. hands were kept busy cutting away drift and remov- ing boulders with which the stream was literally choked. Five miles below the mouth of Marquette River we came to a small stream having its source in a lake to the westward. I gave to this lake the name of Bcaulieu, the veteran Government interpreter, to whom reference has been previously made. Chenowagesic informed me that this lake is but a short distance from the source of the Red River of the North. The series of rapids encountered during the day and the consequent interruption to navigation, kept us so well employed, that even had game been seen, no time was found for hunting, and it was with sensations of hunger, as well as fatigue, that we debated the situation in our new camp. The propriety of eating the otter killed in the morning was freely discussed. I knew from early information obtained as a trapper, that this animal was seldom, if ever, eaten by white men, and then only when driven to great extremity. Their catlike appearance is quite enough to neutralize the cravings of hunger under ordinary circumstances. George and Paine declared they would starve before eating anything so repulsive in appearance, and started in pursuit of blueberries. Lagard and Chenowagesic said that otter was as good as baked dog, and at once proceeded to dress it for supper, while Sebatise made a small fire of pine knots, with which to roast their prize; for the Indians Avere determined to show us the edible qualities of the otter. Returning to camp after a fruitless search for ber- ries, George and Paine were in a humor to join me in an otter steak a la Chippewa. It is perhaps needless EATING AN OTTER. 85 to add that Mr. Otter is not so black as he has fre- quently been painted, and the only regret upon fin- ishing our rather unsavory supper was, that our four- legged friend had not been of larger dimensions, for he was both small and poor. I may further observe that it is quite natural to conclude that, as this animal subsists chiefly upon fish and vegetables, it may be eaten without hesitation, whenever the hunter or voyageur finds himself in straits for more palatable food. Although the second day was a day of incessant toil with axes and paddles, we only advanced fifteen miles. Greatly refreshed, however, by our evening meal and thankful that our condition was no worse, we retired to our tents hopeful for the morrcw. CHAPTER VII. PERILS AND PRIVATIONS. CAMP HUNGER, Forty Miles Above Lake Bemidji, July 24, 1881. EING still without rations all hands went in pursuit of blueberries at six o'clock this morning, but soon returned after a fruitless search, and again launched our canoes, trusting to the fates for something of an eat- able character. Another chain of rapids was encountered a few- yards below Camp Otter. We were nearly an hour in passing down these rapids, when we reached the Kakabikons FalJs. This little cataract is a swift rush of water, bolting through a narrow gorge, with- out a perpendicular fall. Chenowagesic suggested that we should make a portage, but after consultation, we decided to keep the canoes in the water as their crews were so reduced in strength as to be unable to carry the luggage. While halting at its head for Paine to come up George caught hold of my canoe in order to bring his own to a stand. He succeeded in his purpose. But being checked suddenly, the stern of his canoe swung (86) PERILS AND PRIVATIONS. 9 across the stream, which permitted his pilot to catch hold of the limb of a fallen tree. Thus stretched tensely across the rapid stream, in an instant the water burst over the gunwale, precipitating its contents .into the swift current. The water was about four feet deep. George and his pilot found footing with considerable difficulty, but his canoe, tent, blankets, gun and every- thing, were swept over the falls and lost. He clung to his paddle, however, and by feeling with his feet brought up his fowling-piece. Following the overturned canoe, we came up with it at the foot of the rapids, but injured the balance of our little fleet so much in the descent as to cause us considerable delay. It was hoped that this misfortune would prove a valuable lesson to George, who, not- withstanding the fact that he had already been cap- sized five or six times, had yet, it seemed, much to learn of navigation in birch canoes. Below these rapids the river receives a tributary on the right hand, which I called Joliet River, after the distinguished French explorer, Louis Joliet, who was for many years the companion of both La Salle and Hennepin. We found the volume of the Mississippi nearly doubled by the junction of this stream, and hence its savanna borders were greatly enlarged. I noticed frequently among the shrubbery on its shores the wild rose and clumps of the salix. The channel winds through these savanna borders capriciously. At a point where we landed for blueberries, on an open pine bank, on the left shore, we noted several copious and clear springs pouring into the river. Indeed the extensive sand ranges which traverse the wood- lands of this section of the Mississippi are per- 90 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. fectly charged with the moisture condensed on these elevations, which flows in through a thousand rills. The physical character of the stream made this part of our route a most rapid one. Willing or unwilling, we were hurried on ; but indeed we had every desire to hasten the descent, for hunger, gaunt and stern, still stared at us from each succeeding bend of the river. Towards evening, Sebatise caught two black bass, with a hook made from a small piece of tin, while I killed four mallard ducks with three rounds of my shot-gun. We disembarked a little before sunset and pitched tents on a hillside covered with Norway pines. After carefully discussing the situation, it was unanimously voted that the ducks should be reserved for breakfast, as we had learned from experience that we could better dispense with our rations at night than in the morning, when we had a day of paddling before us. My surprise can be readily imagined by those familiar with Indian character, when about midnight I heard loud grumbling in the tent occupied by the interpreter and guides. They had reconsidered their vote and were now in favor of eating fish and ducks at once. Believ- ing that the course we had previously decided upon was best for all, I reasoned a few moments with our dusky friends, and then ordered guns and game to my own tent. This put an end to the disaffection and we again retired to sleep as best we could. I may here add that in my experience among Indians I have observed that when in the possession of food they seldom defer eating it, but when their larders are empty they patiently submit to the gnawings of hun- ger. PERILS AND PRIVATIONS. Ql Jbuvtl) !Dai). CAMP STARVATION, Twenty Miles Above Lake Bemidji, July Twenty-fifth. All were astir at dawn. The much coveted fish and ducks were hastily dressed and broiled. A very simple calculation showed me that if four ducks of nearly equal size were to be divided fairly between six persons, each should receive four-sixths of one duck, and upon this basis I quickly made the apportion- ment. As to the fish, which could not have weighed more than a half pound, it was somewhat difficult to divide, and so it was voted that the leader of the ex- pedition should have the entire fish ration. This courtesy on the part of my companions was gratefully acknowledged, and I venture to say that I regarded it at the time as one of the highest compliments ever paid to leadership. It is perhaps needless to add that fish and ducks were speedily disposed of, tents struck, and canoes again put into the water. We were now within two days of Lake Bemidji, which we had looked forward to as a post of relief since leaving Itasca. The only obstacle to rapid progress in the descent of the river was our exhausted condition, which seriously interfered with a vigorous use of the paddles. A few yards below our last encampment, on turning a bend in the river, we came suddenly upon an old duck of the onzig species and her brood, which at this season are unfledged. This seemed a providential interposition, and I at once sent a charge from the shot-gun after them, but with no other effect than to 92 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. kill one young duck and apparently wound its mother. As to the parent bird, however, I was greatly deceived ; it affected for the moment to be disabled, flapped its wings upon the water as if it could not rise, in order to allow her young to escape, when she suddenly arose and winged her flight beyond the reach of my fowling-piece. Following the shot-gun, the In- dians closed up, gesticulating and screaming loudly, thereby frightening and keeping several of the ducks under water. An instant later, Chenowagesic sent his paddle straight home to the back of a juvenile duck, which, as soon as it came to the surface, was thrown into my canoe amid the shouts of the entire party. We were now two ducks ahead and hopeful of a further reinforcement of our commissariat before nightfall. At ten o'clock we reached the mouth of a stream, having its source in a lake a few miles north of Lake Itasca. This is the second tributary entering on the right, and is the largest as well as the longest so far encountered. I named it La Salle River, in honor of Chevalier Robert de la Salle. Several flocks of pigeons passed over our heads early in the afternoon, but as they were so far above us as to be out of shot range, J did not think it advisable to waste ammunition. My brother noticed a deer grazing at some distance from a point where we landed to search for blueberries; but while he crept up cautiously to within a few yards, he failed in his shot, either from the distance or want of practice. He immediately threw a fresh cartridge into his gun and fired again, before the animal had made many leaps, but to no purpose. A halt was made at three o'clock for rest and PERILS AND PRIVATIONS. 93 refreshment, for we were so much exhausted by this time from padtlling and want of food that we could proceed no farther. Lagard helped me out of my canoe and led me to the shade of a small tree, for on attempting to walk I found I was too weak to do so without assistance. The two ducks killed in the morn- ing, together with a mud-turtle caged by Chenowagesic, were quickly broiled, and as quickly devoured. A few blueberries were gathered by George, which he divided equally among his companions. At four o'clock the canoes were again put into the water and the descent of the river continued. Our progress for some miles was greatly retarded by a sluggish current, the route lying through wild rice savannas, the most extensive we had yet seen. These rice savannas seem indispensable to the Indian tribes of the Upper Mississippi, who rely upon them largely for their winter sustenance. Toward evening we came to the junction of a considerable stream, known among the Indians as the Pinidiwin River. This river originates in a lake on the northwestern summit of a range of hills called the Hauteur des Terres. It lias another lake also near the point where it enters the Mississippi. One of these lakes is known as Monomina, the other I named Beltrami, after the emi- nent Frenchman who preceded Schoolcraft in Missis- sippi exploration. Just below the mouth of the Pinidiwin a flock of wild geese passed over our heads. This was, under the circumstances, a very great temptation, and, while they were apparently beyond short range, I ventured a round of ammunition upon them, without effect. This was a hard blow. The sun was sinking behind 94 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. the distant hills, and although we had eaten nothing since six o'clock in the morning, there was now no prospect of securing food before reaching Lake Be- rnidji. It was suggested that we should continue the descentduring the night, but this was considered imprac- ticable, as the channel was so tortuous and unsettled as to render navigation extremely difficult except in day- light. We were still passing through wild rice and blue grass savannas where the river is constantly chang- ing its course, and the channel with which Chenowa- gesic was formerly familiar was now in many places filled up and overgrown with reeds and rushes. We disembarked at eight o'clock, about ten miles below the mouth of the Pinidiwin, and pitched our tents in a pine grove on the left bank. The day's descent was indeed an arduous one. George and Paine estimated it at twenty miles. Taking into consideration a sluggish current and lack of rations, it must be admitted that our progress was all that could have been expected. CHAPTER VIII. BEMIDJI TO WINNIBEGOSHISH. JFt't!) jDttg. CAMP BELIEF, Near Lake Bemidji, Minnesota, July 26, 1881. TRUCK tents at sunrise. Shot a musk- rat with our last round of ammunition, and killed two ducks with paddles early in the forenoon, which, with a few blue- berries gathered by the guides, gave us a scant dinner. Had we not been thus fa- vored, it is hard to say what our fate might have been, for we were so much reduced in strength by this time that it was with the greatest dif- ficulty we continued the descent of the river, aided only, as we were, by a sluggish current, and too weak to accomplish much with our paddles. A breakdown seemed inevitable, but this timely relief gave us renewed energy and braced us up for more vigorous work in pushing forward the canoes. We met a canoe late in the afternoon, about ten miles above Lake Bemidji, in which there were an Indian, his squaw and pappoose. Finding they had some dried fish and a small quantity of maple sugar, we proposed a purchase, which was made after con- (95) 96 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. siderable parleying, and which resulted in our secur- ing four small perch and about two pounds of sugar. The Fates certainly favored us on this occasion, for had we been a few moments later we should not have seen these Indians, as at the time of our meeting they were about turning from the Mississippi to ascend one of its tributaries. As soon as we were in possession of sugar and fish it was voted that nothing should be eaten until our usual hour for supper; but I may add that our wise resolu- tions were not very strictly adhered to, and the offi- cial having charge of the sugar was frequently visited upon errands having no reference to the points of the compass. We reached the mouth of the eastern fork of the Mississippi at five o'clock. This stream, to which al- lusion was made during our voyage to Lake Itasca, unites with the western fork about three miles south of Bemidji. We were now in latitude 47 28' 46". Of the two primary streams which unite at this point, the one flowing from the west contributes by far the larger volume of water, possessing the greater velocity and breadth of current. A few moments before six o'clock we entered a beautiful little lake of clear water and a picturesque margin, spreading transversely to our course, to which I gave the name of Marquette. Chenowagesic led the way directly north across this body of water, strik- ing the river again on its opposite shore. The Mississippi at the point of leaving Lake Mar- quette is a broad, shallow channel, with rapid current. I estimated this channel to be not more than one hundred yards long, at which distance we entered .the BEMIDJI TO WINNIBEGOSHISH. 97 largest lake yet encountered in our seaward voyage. This fine body of water is known to the Chippewas as Pemuljegumaug, which is the Lac Traverse of the early French explorers. It appears upon the recent maps of Minnesota as Beraidji, which is an indifferent ab- breviation of its original title. The peculiarity recog- nized by the Indian name of Pemidjegumaug, or cross-water, is found to consist in the circumstance of the entrance of the Mississippi into its extreme southern end, and its passage through or across part of it at a short distance from the point of entrance. Lake Bemidji is in every way a magnificent sheet of water, twelve miles in length from north to south, and six or seven broad, fringed by an open forest of hard wood. It is distant one hundred and forty-eight miles from the source of the river, and lies at an: ele- vation of 1456 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, in latitude 47 32' 45". Continuing our course we paddled across the southern end of Lake Bemidji to its outlet. Descending the river a short distance we came to high ground, which was considered favorable for a camp; halted and pitched tents a few moments before sunset. Here we were again brought to the realization of an empty larder. Every grain of sugar had disappeared. The last round of ammunition was gone, and but four small dried perch left to carry us to Lake Winnibegoshish, distant about a hundred miles ; for we had now learned that the trading post at this point, and also that at Cass Lake, had some time since been abandoned. The fish were carefully cut up and distributed, which, with a few blueberries found near our encampment, afforded temporary refreshment and sent us to our tents musing, 6 98 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. not so much upon the beautiful scenery which had arrested our attention during the afternoon, as upon the probabilities of bagging something of an eatable character on the morrow. Pan. CAMP CIIIPPEWA, Cans Luke, Minnesota, July Twenty- seventh. Launclied our canoes a few minutes after sunrise. Killed two small mallard ducks and one mud-turtle with our paddles, which, with the usual addition of the never-failing blueberries, gave us an indifferent breakfast at ten o'clock. All hands very weak again from want of sufficient food. Reached Cuss Lake at three o'clock in the afternoon. Here we found a wigwam on the shore of the lake occupied by an Indian woman and her children. A careful exploration brought to light a few dried fish, which we at once purchased with money and tobacco, the latter article being especially appreciated. Dame Fortune seemed to be with us once more, and hastening back to our canoes we paddled directly across the lake, disembarking at a point near its outlet. Tents were pitched and preparations for supper begun, for we now had something to eat, and were in no humor to defer the eating. Desirous of adding some- thing of a nourishing character to our small stock of dried fish, Chenowagesic and the Lagards were in- structed to forage in the vicinity of our encampment. They soon returned, reporting the discovery of a de- serted wigwam and a large garden of growing corn BEMIDJI TO WINNIBEGOSHISH. 99 and potatoes. This garden, well filled with half- grown potatoes, was to my starving companions an ob- ject of sincere admiration, especially when we were told by our guides that in the Indian country the hungry are always at liberty to help themselves. Under the circumstances, this practice of our red brothers was well calculated to inspire us with the most exalted ideas of aboriginal generosity, and the alacrity with which we helped ourselves to those juvenile potatoes fully attested our appreciation. After supper all went down to the lake and had a full bath, then returned to our tents thankful for the favors of the day, and loud in our praises of Indians who plant corn and potatoes. Cass Lake is a fine body of transparent water, about eighteen miles in length, with several large bays and islands, which give it an irregular shape. The largest island, called Grande lie by the French, is the Gitchiminis of the Indians. This island has a very fertile soil, and has always been a favorite garden spot with the Chippewas for raising maize or Indian corn. Cass Lake was the terminus of the respective explorations of Lieutenant Zebulon Pike, in 1806, and Governor Lewis Cass, of Michigan, in 1820. The points at which they approached it were not, however, the same. Pike visited it in a dog-train on the snow during the month of January, across the land from the trading post of the Northwest Company at Leech Lake. Cass landed in July, after tracing its channel from Sandy Lake to the entrance of Turtle River, the line of communication to Turtle Lake, which was for many years the reputed source of the Mississippi. The northern shore of Cass Lake lies in latitude 100 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 47 25' 23". The Mississippi at the point where it flows from the lake is one hundred and seventy-five feet wide. CABIN OF MISSIONARY, Lake Winnibegoshixh, Minnesota) July Twenty-eighth. All were up and doing at daylight. The Lagards hurried off to the potato field, while George and Che- nowagesic made a rousing fire in which to roast the potatoes. None but those accustomed to frontier life can appreciate the luxury of potatoes baked in ashes ; and our supper and breakfast at Cass Lake are among the things long to be remembered in connection with our experience on the Upper Mississippi. Having some tobacco, with which we had provided ourselves at Saint Paul for dealing with the Indians, we placed a small quantity in a conspicuous place in the wigwam, concluding that when the strolling Chippewa occupants should return they would find acceptable payment for the potatoes confiscated by their white brothers. As soon as breakfast was over, tents were struck, blankets rolled, and by six o'clock we were again in the canoes pulling vigorously for Lake Winnibegoshish, our next destination. The river looked very beau- tiful that morning, rippling over its gravelly bed and flecked with the cool shadows of bluffs and trees, its surface varied now and then by small rapids, shooting down which the water lashed itself against the boulders. Farther along the rapids ceased and the river flowed between waving meadows of wild rice. BEMIDJI TO WINNIBEGOSHISH. 1Q1 We met several Indians in canoes at nine o'clock. Halted and parleyed with them for dried fish, but failed to accomplish anything, as they had barely enough for their own use. Tempted them with to- bacco, but they would not part with their fish. Later in the forenoon we disembarked and ascended the bank of the river, where we found a squaw and her children at work drying berries. Having some dried venison at her wigwam near by, she generously di- vided with us, receiving money in payment. Hurried back to our canoes and continued the descent of the river, eating venison and berries as we urged our little fleet toward Winnibegoshish. A heavy swell followed by a rising and falling of the canoes betokened our near approach to a large body of water, and at eleven o'clock we shot out upon the bosom of Lake Winnibegoshish, the largest and grandest of all the great lakes of the Great River. Our arrival at Winnibegoshish was at a time when a strong south wind blew its waters into white-capped waves, and it was at the imminent risk of swamping that the canoes were forced along the western shore and into the little bay upon which the Indian village stands. I shall not soon forget the peculiar sensa- tions experienced when I realized that I was in a frail canoe in a heavy sea two or three miles from land. I would have given a good deal at this time if I could have suddenly placed my feet upon a firm foundation. Although my proposition to cross the lake was stoutly opposed by the guides there seemed to be no alternative, as we were again without food and felt sure that something of an eatable character could be secured at the Chippewa village on the opposite side 102 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. of the lake. For nearly two hours we pulled right lustily for our destination, sometimes riding upon the topmost waves, and again struggling in the trough of the sea. I felt several times that to get out of such a fix I would willingly fast six months. I would have given every dollar I had in the world to have been safely landed anywhere on the face of the earth. Finding that my pilot coveted such a hat as his cap- tain wore, I promised to keep him well supplied with hats for some years to come if he landed me safely in the village towards which we were paddling. Our canoes soon became detached by ponderous waves which tossed us about quite at their pleasure, and no opportunity was found to discuss the situation ; but I sincerely wished that all birch canoes had been con- signed to perdition before we saw Winnibegoshish. We struck the beach at three o'clock in the afternoon, heartily glad that we stood once more on terra firma. On disembarking we were very cordially received by a large number of Chippevvas, headed by Kitchi- nodin, an Indian missionary, who welcomed us to their village, the missionary extending to me the courtesy of a bed in his cabin, and suggesting a fti- vorable place for pitching the tents of my companions. These were the first civilities shown us in the descent of the Mississippi, and the three days that we were wind-bound at this Chippewa village afforded me an excellent opportunity for studying Indian character and habits. When told that we had been many days without regular food, Kitchinodin promptly supplied us with such meats and vegetables as he could procure, and in- sisted that I should feel at home in his cabin. BEMIDJI TO WINNIBEGOSH1SH. 103 Having been duly installed as the guest of Kitchi- nodin, I looked forward with considerable interest to our dinner, which I soon discovered was in course of preparation. Everything being ready, Kitchinodiu turned to me and said in the best English fie could command, and with some hesitation : Ne-che, din-ner- is-read-y. Then taking me by the hand he led me into his cabin and placed" me at the side of a plain wooden table opposite his wife. He seated himself at the end of the table, and in serving the few simple dishes which constituted our repast was assisted by an intelligent-looking Indian girl who carried a juvenile Kitchinodin in one arm and waited upon the table with the other. Dinner consisted of dried fish, potatoes, green corn, and red raspberries, which are found in abundance wherever there is a clearing in the neighborhood of this lake. Before proceeding with dinner my reverend host indicated, by raising his right hand and bowing his head, that he desired to ask a blessing. This was invoked in the Ojibvvay dialect, and with all the fervor of a true Christian. Having embraced Christianity, this son of the forest manifested that respect for the practices of civilization which almost invariably follow conver- sion. He said to me through the interpreter that he desired to imitate and live as far as possible in accord- ance with the suggestions and teachings of his white brothers. He asked my advice in many things, and hoped my sojourn at Winnibegoshish would be much longer than I had contemplated. Dinner being over, Kitchinodin invited me to walk with him through the village, after which we sat down in the shade of his cabin and looked out upon the lake. 104 DO TF^V THE GREA T Rl VER. Lake Winnibegoshish, the largest lake of the Missis- sippi, is about twenty miles in its greatest length from north to south, and fifteen or sixteen broad from east to west. Its northern shore lies in latitude 47 28' 32". This imposing lake was first seen by white men in 1806, when Hon. Lewis Cass, of Michigan, and Lieutenant Pike, United States Army, reached it during their tour of exploration on the Upper Missis- sippi. It was subsequently visited by Schoolcraft in 1832, when on his way to Lake Itasca. The waters of Winnibegoshish have a slightly turbid aspect after the prevalence of storms, which appears to reveal its shallowness with a probably white-clay bottom. The Chippewa name of Winnibegoshish is indeed said to be derived from this circumstance. CHAPTER IX. HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS. tg!)t!) Dan. HOME OP KITCHINODIN, Lake Winnibeyoshish, Minnesota, July 29, 1881. T was my intention on our arrival at Lake Winnibegoshish to continue the descent of the river on the following morning, but, finding ourselves wind- bound at the appointed time for re-embark- ing, I decided to improve the day by fur- ther informing myself concerning the peculiar habits and religious notions of the Chippewas. Conversations with Kitchinodin convinced me that he was far above the ordinary Indian in point of natural intelligence and acquired knowledge of the practices and traditions of his race. He is a regularly ordained missionary of the Episcopal Church, having been duty appointed by Bishop Whipple, of Minnesota. Per- fectly familiar with the current beliefs and supersti- tions of the Chippewas, he told me through my inter- preter of many of the obstacles with which he has to contend in making converts to Christianity. Their notions of religion appear to be of the most simple character; they believe in the existence of an (105) 106 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. only God, whom they terra Ka-sha-rna-ne-to, or Great Spirit ; Kasha signifying great, and Maneto an irresisti- ble Almighty Being. The epithet Kasha is never applied to any other word but as connected with the Supreme Being. It would be highly indecorous to apply it to a house, a horse, or any other visible object. Yet it is in a few instances applied to a good man, in order to give more force to the expression by connecting his good qualities with those which they ascribe to the Great Spirit. They recognize also an evil spirit, whom they call Mat-cha-ma-ne-to. This unfavorable epithet is not restricted in its applica- tion, but is extended to all unpleasant or disagreeable objects. They consider themselves indebted to the Good Spirit for the warm winds from the south, while the evil one sends the cold winds and storms of the north. The Kashamaneto dwells in the land of the mid-day sun, while the Mntchamaneto resides in the cold regions of the north where the sun never shines. Their worship appears to be addressed principally to the Evil Spirit, whom they think it expedient to propitiate; the good one needing no prayers, for his essential goodness will always induce him to assist and protect man without being reminded of it by his pe- titions; neither do they believe that their prayers to the Evil Spirit can in any manner displease the good. In certain cases, however, as when afflicted with disease, or when impelled to it in a dream, they will offer a sacrifice of living animals to the Kashamaneto. This is usually done at the suggestion of one of their chiefs or leaders, who calls all the warriors together, explains his views, and appoints one of them to go in search of a buck ; to another he commits the killing DOG DANCE OF THE SIOUX. -A-H 1 & T~' 3 * Pr 1 r- T , ,~hg i (S>-\-is> <$>-?>-\ --A-H ff^ CHIPPEWA SCALP DANCE. ifar-f-rfgpip: y-i- tzitt .--1 - 31 ,^J .^ ._J J _, IJ THE notes marked thus, .= are performed with a tremulous voice sounded : " High-yi-yi," &c. HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS.IQ$ of a raccoon ; to a third he allots some other animal to be killed ; and when they have been successful in their respective hunts, they meet and fasten the first buck which they kill upon a high pole, and leave it in this situation so that it may serve as a sacrifice to the Great Spirit. Upon the remainder of the chase they feast. After having boiled the game they partake of it in the name of the Great Spirit. The object of these sacrifices is to insure luck in their pursuits, whether of hunting or fighting. The only period when they have regular sacrifices is during the winter and spring of the year, at which time many of the warriors give feasts; each selects the time that suits him best, and invites such guests as he thinks proper. Having assembled them all, he rises, takes a sort of tambourine, formed by fastening a piece of skin or parchment upon a frame, which he beats while he addresses himself to the divinity, ac- companying his invocation with many violent ges- tures. When he has concluded, he resumes his seat, and hands the tambourine over to another, who pro- ceeds in the same manner. They have regular songs which they sing together on such occasions. Among the Chippewas, polygamy is not only al- lowed but even encouraged. A man frequently has two or three wives, sometimes four or five, according to his skill and success as a hunter. An Indian who lias many wives is respected as being a better or more favored hunter than he who has but one wife; it therefore follows that the number of wives he keeps is equal to that which he can maintain. They are very attentive to the proper education of their children, in order to impart to them those 110 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. qualities of both mind and body which shall enable them to endure privation and fatigue, and to obtain influence in the councils of the nation, or during their military operations. Kitchinodin said that, when very young, his father began to instruct him in the traditions, laws and ceremonies of his tribe, in order that he might one day benefit his country with his counsel. The education of boys usually commences at the age of ten or twelve years; they accustom them early to the endurance of cold by making them bathe every morning in winter. They likewise encourage them to abstinence from food in order that they may acquire the more readily those attributes which it is desirable for an Indian to possess. Parents use no compulsory means to reduce their children to obedience ; still, they generally succeed in obtaining a powerful influence over them by acting upon their fears; they tell them that if they do not do as they are required they will incur the displeasure of the Great Spirit, who will deprive them of all luck as hunters and as warriors. This, together with the constant and never-ceasing importance which the children observe that their parents attribute to luck in all their pursuits, is found to have the desired effect upon the minds of all those who are fired with the ambition of becoming distinguished at some future day by their skill and success. Their fasts are marked by the ceremony of smear- ing their faces and hands with charcoal. To effect this, they take a piece of wood of the length of the finger and suspend it to their necks; they char one end of it, and rub themselves with the coal every HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS.IH morning, keeping it on until after sunset. No person whose face is blackened presumes to eat or drink dur- ing the period of fasting ; whatever may be the crav- ings of his appetite he must restrain them until evening, when he may wash off his black paint and indulge moderately in the use of food. The next morning he repeats the ceremony of blackening his face, and continues it from day to day until the whole of his piece of wood is consumed. After this term they either suspend or continue their fasting, according to the particular requirements of the case. Kitchinodin said that in no instance within his recollection had Indians been known to break their fasts ; so powerful indeed is their super- stitious dread of that "ill luck" which would attach to a transgression of their rules, that even children have been, in vain, tempted to take food when at the houses of teachers and beyond the control of their parents. Neither does it appear that they indulge after sunset in any unreasonable gratification of their appetite : in this respect therefore they prove them- selves more consistent than the Mahometans, who are said, while their Ramadan or Lent lasts, to make up by the debaucheries of the evening for the restrictions imposed upon them during the day by the precepts of their Prophet. The same apprehensions which will prevent an In- dian, whether man or boy, from tasting food while covered with his coating of charcoal, will not allow him to shorten the term of his penance by consuming the piece of wood too hastily. If he does not use it sparingly, he is certain that the charm or virtue with which he invests it will be dispelled. In addition to 112 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. fasting, the Indian attempts to impress upon his off- spring a permanent and unshaken belief in the exist- ence of a Great Spirit, ruler of the universe, whose attributes are kindness to men and a desire of reliev- ing them from all their afflictions. The necessity of doing all that may be grateful to him is often recurred to in those exhortations by which every Indian parent instructs his sons both morning and evening. It does not appear that the same care is extended to the religious principles of females ; they are not allowed to take part in the public sacrifices, and as they have no concern in the noble occupations of war or the chase, it matters but little whether or not they are agreeable in the sight of the Great Spirit. The only inducement which they have to pray is that they may continue to hold a place in the affections of their husbands. The Chippewas are of the opinion that they have always existed in the neighborhood of the head waters of the Mississippi. They are also of the belief that the first man and woman were made by the Great Spirit. Their traditions at first mentioned but one original couple, the parents of the red people, from whom they believe themselves to have descended. But when they became acquainted with the different races of men, they supposed a couple of white and another of black had likewise been created by the Supreme Being, and that these had given rise to the white and black people whom they had since seen. Soon after the white men came among them they were told that far away towards the setting sun there was a race of people whose features and complexion resembled theirs. This had led them to much reflection and discus- sion. They had often inquired of other nations whence HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS. H3 they came, hut found strong reasons for adhering to their old tradition, that the land on which they now resided was that upon which the Great Spirit had first placed them. Indians generally admit the existence of a future life, of which, however, they entertain very confused ideas, believing for the most part that the spirits of those who have lived a good life will go to a country where they can pursue without fatigue their favorite occupation of hunting, where animals will be plentiful and fat. Not so with the spirits of the bad ; theirs will be a country barren and nearly destitute of game, Avhere the chase will become a painful and unprofitable occupation. It is impossible on seeing this strange people at present not to feel that the time for obtaining correct information from them has long since passed away; they have imbibed from the missionaries so many notions which certainly did not belong to them origin- ally, and the crafty policy of their chiefs to counteract the effect of their intercourse with white men has raised so many idle and false traditions, that it is difficult to distinguish the genuine from the false doctrines attributed to these nations in their original state. Of the many interesting customs which, accord- ing to their traditions, formerly prevailed among them, the degeneration of none is more to be regretted than that which accompanied the marriage ceremony. This has now nearly disappeared from the face of the country. Their intermarriages with other nations have Ixjcome so frequent, and the demoralizing ten- dency of their intercourse with the traders has been so great, that it has led them to neglect practices which were recommended to them by a venerable antiquity. 114 DOWN THE GEE A T El VER. Referring to the form of courtship among the Chippewas, Kitchinodin said that formerly when a young man had conceived an attachment for a female, or wished to make her his wife, he gave the first intimation of his design by throwing a deer into the lodge of the girl's parents. This he would repeat for several days, after which the father usually asked him what object he had in doing so, and whether it was to obtain his daughter. The young man having replied in the affirmative, the relatives of the girl would, if they approved of the connection, prepare a dress for the youth, which they would take to his wigwam, and there the damsel's father would invest him with it. He would then take him home with him, and introduce him to the bride; there the lover remained ten or twelve days, until his friends had prepared the presents they intended for his w r ife's family. It was usual for the young couple to dwell with the bride's parents for the term of a year, during which time the husband was virtually a servant in the family, giving his father-in-law all the produce of his hunt. At the expiration of this term he was at liberty to remove his wife to his own wigwam and treat her as he liked. The power of the husband over his wife was un- limited ; he might even put her to death if he chose, and she lost all claim to the sympathy and protec- tion of her own relatives. They never would resent any treatment which she had been made to endure. There was no fixed time for marrying. Girls were sometimes betrothed at a very early age, long before maturity. The presents which it was customary to make were always of the most valuable kind, and con- HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS. 115 sisted of horses, venison, guns and many other things that were likely to be of service to the contracting parties. It was the custom when an Indian married one of several sisters to consider him as wedded to all ; and it became incumbent upon him to take the others as concubines. The marrying of a brother's widow was not approved, but was always looked upon as a very improper connection. The intercourse of persons related by blood was likewise disapproved and discour- aged. The circumstances which attend funerals are also worthy of notice. They have, it is true, but few ceremonies at the time of the removal of the corpse ; but the manner in which this duty is performed de- serves mention. The greatest pains are taken that all should be transacted in the most decorous manner. The spot selected is always as dry as can be found in the vicinity of their villages. The body of the de- ceased is clothed in his best garments, and, if the rela- tives can afford it, new clothes are obtained for this pur- pose. His moccasins, rifle, knife, money, silver orna- ments, in fact the whole of his possessions, are placed near him : the corpse is laid with its face turned to- wards the east. A small quantity of food is placed near the head. The funeral is generally attended by all the relatives, who express their grief by weeping. An Indian is buried in an erect, seated, or inclined posture, according to the wishes and directions which he may have given previous to death ; for these are always most implicitly obeyed. The graves in which Indians are buried are generally from four to five feet in depth. If the deceased had, previous to death, 7 116 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. signified a desire to be deposited in a tree, his wish is attended to ; otherwise the body is always interred. When the corpse is to be placed in a tree, it is first sewed up in a blanket, and this is suspended to the branches. The friends of the deceased visit it fre- quently until they observe that the body is decaying ; they then shake hands with it and bid it a last fare- well. But even after this they return yearly to visit the spot where it is deposited, and uniformly leave some food near it. At the time of a funeral they often light a fire near the h^ad of the grave, and upon this they prepare their feast, throwing a part of the food on the grave for the use of their friend. If they have whiskey they likewise scatter some on the ground, but of this they are sparing, doubtless from the belief that the living require it much more than the dead. An in- vocation is then made to the deceased, who is en- treated to speed his course direct to the Great Prairie without casting his eyes back, for they hold that, if on his way to the land of spirits he were to look behind him, it would bring ill luck upon some one of his re- latives, to whom it would be a signal that his com- pany was required by his departed friend. It is customary to mark the grave with a post, on which are inscribed in hieroglyphics the deeds of the de- ceased, whether of hunting or fighting. The Chippewas are particular in their demonstra- tions of grief for departed friends. These consist in darkening their faces with charcoal, fasting, abstain- ing from the use of vermilion and other ornaments in dress. They also make incisions in their arms, legs and other parts of the body, from a belief that their HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CIIIPPEWAS. H7 grief is internal, and that the only way of dispelling it is to give it a vent through which to escape. Their outward signs of grief are not merely of a temporary character; they are more lasting than among those who consider themselves higher in the scale of refine- ment than the red man. Chenowagesic observed that he had abstained from the use of vermilion for the past fifteen years on account of the loss of a valued friend, and he meant to persist in this practice ten years longer. The deceased was not a relative, merely a friend. Public opinion requires of them some mourning for departed relations; but the Indian graduates his expressions of grief according to the value in which he held the deceased, rather than with reference to the mere relationship in which nature or accident placed him in life. Much to my regret the conversation with Kitchi- nodin was suddenly brought to a olose by the de- parture of Chenowagesic for his home at Leech Lake. This interview with the missionary was full of in- terest, and gave me a clearer insight into Indian character than I had as yet been able to gather from other sources. The red man appears to me to possess some ideas of virtue and morality, which are fully as commend- able as those that are supposed by many philosophers to be characteristic of civilization only. True, they are perhaps but too frequently checked in their growth by the uncontrolled sway which his evil pro- pensities exercise over him ; propensities which doubt- less have been increased by an indiscriminate inter- course with the most worthless of white men, who, to serve their own selfish ends, have not been ashamed to DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. stimulate the Indian to deeds which his own good sense would have prevented him from perpetrating. Parting with Chenowagesic. The valuable service rendered by my faithful guide, Chenowagesic, made his retirement at Lake Winuibe- goshish one of the notable events of our voyage. The ceremonies attending his leave-taking were made im- pressive by reason of the important part he had borne in leading us to the Source of the Mississippi. Our parting took place in front of a cluster of wig- wams near the shore of the lake. George, Paine, the Lagards, Kitchinodin and many Indians from the village were present. As soon as all were assembled I arose, and, address- ing Cheuowagesic, recounted the leading incidents of our journey to Lake Itasca and beyond. Spoke of our discovery and the privations we had endured in the descent of the river. Thanked him for the im- portant duty he had performed, and expressed the hope that, after a visit to his family, he would be able to rejoin us at Aitkin and complete the voyage with us to the Gulf. When I had concluded my remarks I paid Cheno- wagesic and Sebatise Lagard, who was to return to Leech Lake with him, for the time they had served. Gave each a photograph of myself, and divided equally between them all the tobacco we had in re- serve. This done, Chenowagesic straightened himself up to his full height and began speaking. In a man- ner characteristic of the Indian he prefaced his speech by referring to the circumstances under which we had met at Leech Lake. Related his impressions on first HABITS AND TRADITIONS OF THE CHIPPEWAS. 121 seeing me. Referred to his promise to guide me to the TRUE SOURCE of the Great River ; spoke with pride of his having accomplished all that he had under- taken, and closed by trusting that it might be his good fortune to rejoin us at Aitkin, as I desired ; but should he not be able to do so, he would anticipate meeting me and my companions in the Happy Hunt- ing Ground. A general hand-shaking followed, after which Chenowagesic and Sebatise got into their canoe and started for Leech Lake. CHAPTER X. LAKE WINNIBEGOSHISH TO GRAND EAPIDS. Nmtl) Pag. CAMP CHENOWAGESIC, Lake Winnibegoshish, Minnesota, July 30, 1881. t NOTWITHSTANDING the stm turbu- lent condition of the lake and threaten- ing southeasterly winds, we re-embarked at sunrise and continued our course with much difficulty for several hours along its western shore. The increasing strength of the wind, however, and consequent heavy sea forced us to run ashore at ten o'clock, at a point known among the fur traders as Old School Station. Here we were compelled to spend the day listening to the roar and swash of the waves as they lashed the beach in their fury. It was voted that we would not venture upon the lake again until the " white caps" had entirely disap- peared, and so we set to work to make ourselves as comfortable as possible. Tents were pitched, blankets spread, and preparations for dinner begun, for we were now in possession of a small quantity of meat and potatoes secured from the Indians through the kindness of Kitchiuodin, (122) LAKE WINN1BEGOSIIISH TO GRAND RAPIDS. 123 All day we waited and watched anxiously for a calm, but it did not come, and finally despairing of an opportunity to launch our canoes before morning, we retired to our tents. About midnight our slumbers were disturbed by the sound of paddles and voices in the little cove on the shores of which we were en- camped ; then the slight grating of a canoe on the beach ; and presently two villainous-looking Indians appeared armed with Winchester rifles, one of whom I learned from my interpreter was a double murderer. They seemed to feel quite at home ; blew the embers of our fire into a blaze and curled up in their blankets beside it. We let them alone, and though they made no further demonstration, we hardly slept as soundly afterwards. (fceutl) CAMP LAGARD, Ten Miles below Winnibeyoshiah, July Thirty-first. On coming from our tents a little before sunrise we found Wiunibegoshish as angry and boisterous as ever. A heavy sea, the presence of white caps, and the roar of waves as they broke upon the beach, were not well calculated to hasten the launch of our canoes. Breakfast was soon ready and over. A hurried consultation led me to decide that, let the consequences be what they might, we could not wait longer, but must cross the lake at once and enter the river. Our effort was a success, but was attended with consider- able risk, the wind being so strong ahead as to greatly 124 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. retard the advance of the canoes, which were some- times nearly filled with water. After five hours of vigorous paddling against wind and wave we reached the outlet and continued the de- scent of the river, gliding along delightfully, aided by a brisk current, until we came to another lake known as Little Winnibegoshish. Here we again encountered high winds and rough water, but by hugging the eastern shore around to the outlet we avoided some of the unpleasant experiences of the morning. Little Winnibegoshish is only about three-fourths of a mile below its namesake. It is a beautiful sheet of water of very respectable dimensions, and but for its nearness to the larger lake would attract much more attention than it has hitherto received. The Lakes Winnibegoshish occupy a position on the American Continent, and particularly in relation to the Upper Mississippi, which makes it desirable to acquire more accurate details and observations than it fell to our lot to be enabled to make. But in the ab- sence of such data, such facts as our means permitted may be substituted. We were impressed with their extent, and the picturesque and diversified appearance of their woodland shores. Their geological features are similar to those of Bemidji and Cass lakes, being a basin of diluvial formation, occupying a position on the great marine sand district of Northern Minnesota. This district abounds in pure springs, and is so im- pervious in its lower strata that it has probably re- tained to the present day more water in the character of lakes, large and small, than any other part of the world. There is a portage from Winnibegoshish for light LAKE WINNIBEGOSHISH TO GRAND RAPIDS. 125 packages of goods across the summit level of the Mis- sissippi Valley into Red Lake, and the fertile valley of Red River. The latter embraces the settlements planned by the Earl of Selkirk, the inhabitants of which maintained their existence for several years against the strenuous opposition of the Northwest Company. CAMP KITCHINODIN, White Oak Point, Minnesota, August First. Paine sounded reveille at ten minutes after four o'clock in the morning. All turned out promptly and began preparations for getting on the river. Progress in our canoes very slow. We followed the windings of the river ten miles, to advance two towards our objective. Had dried fish and potatoes for dinner. Met a party of Indian hay-makers after dinner, of whom we purchased a small quantity of dried meat. Passed the mouth of Leech Lake River on the right hand between three and four o'clock. This is a con- siderable stream, is the outlet of Leech Lake, and nearly doubles the volume of the Mississippi at its point of entrance. We reached White Oak Point be- tween six and seven o'clock in the evening, where we found a Chippewa village presided over by a chief with an unpronounceable name, which Lagard in- terpreted as Dull Knife. Not caring to avail myself of the courtesies extended by Dull Knife, we pitched our tents in an open field rather than occupy a filthy wigwam with ten or fifteen 126 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Chippewas. These Indians appeared to regard our arras and equipments with considerable curiosity, and especially my self-acting revolver, a weapon with which they had had no experience. Wishing to keep them at a respectful distance from my tent, I found much pleasure in showing them how effective it could be made in skillful hands. The experiment proved successful, for they could not readily understand how pulling the trigger could cock and discharge the re- volver at the same instant. Naturally superstitious, they were inclined to believe that the evil one had taken possession of me and could not be persuaded to approach my quarters, although I found them quite sociable whenever I appeared among them in their village. Dull Knife was well advanced in years but had none of the infirmities of old age. The women were all very ugly and the children looked like little imps, in whose countenances and apparently deformed bodies we could scarcely discover the rudiments of men as tall and elegant as those who stood before us. Most of their youth had gone out on a hunting excursion. The men whom we saw were almost naked, having no other garment than the breech-cloth, but as we drew near them they gathered up their blankets. The women wore a short gown and a blanket ; the children ran about naked, with no other appendage than a belt about their loins. It is curious to observe that all Indians, whether old or young, wear a belt even when they have nothing to attach to it; and the children, who seldom assume the breech-cloth before maturity,- invariably have a belt tied around them as soon as they are able to walk. LAKE WINNIBEGOSHISH TO GRAND RAPIDS. 127 One of the \vigwams which we visited was about fifteen feet in diameter and fully twelve feet high at its centre ; it was formed of bark secured to a frame made of poles and covered with the same material. Like the wigwams visited at Bemidji and Winnibegoshish it had the appearance of being very comfortable. The fire was made in the middle, the smoke passing out between the poles; the sides of the interior were occupied with a frame three feet high and four or five feet wide, which was covered with blankets and skins, upon which the inmates sit and sleep. There is no partition or anything that can serve as a screen to separate one part of the family from, the other. The disposition of these Indians was friendly. The object of the expedition was explained to them, to which they made no reply, but the chief directed his squaw to give us some maple sugar in return for the tobacco we had presented him. He expressed his regret at having no fresh meat to give us, but added that if his hunters returned that evening with meat he would send some to our camp. We were somewhat surprised by their familiar manner, which we at first mistook for intentional impudence. They all collected around us and carefully examined our equipments, witF which they seemed highly pleased. One of them drew ray brother's hunting knife from the sheath, and having looked at it for some time, returned it; he then took Paine's hat, which was a sombrero, and after having examined this also with care, tried it on his own head. All this, how- ever, seemed to proceed rather from childish curiosity than from any intention to give offence. After a time 128 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. they began to beg for money which soon compelled us to retire to our tents. POTTER HOUSE, Grand Rapids, Minnesota, August Second. Had a light breakfast on dried fish and potatoes obtained from Indians. Launched our canoes at seven o'clock. While descending the river we met three canoes filled with Chippewas and their families. They were freighted with heavy rolls of birch bark, such as their canoes are made of; together with a small quantity of snake-root designed for the trading post at Grand Rapids. We halted at two o'clock for dinner, which consisted of dried meat, potatoes and blue- berries. The annoyance suffered from mosquitoes on this great plateau was almost past endurance. We re-embarked at a quarter past four and reached Pokegama Falls at five o'clock. At this point the first rock stratum and the first wooded island are seen. The river has an aggregate fall of twenty feet. Making a portage around the falls, we continued our course towards Grand Rapids two miles and a half down the stream, shooting the rapids just above and arriving at the little hamlet of the same name a few minutes before seven o'clock. This pioneer village consists of a hotel, two stores, a saloon and three or four private houses, all built of logs. The Potter House is the first hotel encountered in the descent of the river, and is intended chiefly for the accommodation of hunters and lumbermen, who gather here during the LAKE WINNIBEGOSniSH TO GRAND KAPTDV. 19,9 fall and winter months. It was with quickened pace we answered the call of "supper" at this house, and with a keen appetite that we sat down to the first civilized table we had seen in seventeen days. The bill of fare, though not elaborate, was ample and con- sisted of beefsteak, potatoes, raspberries, tea and coifee. Very little ceremony was observed, and we " stood not upon the order of our going.'* CHAPTER XI. GRAND RAPIDS TO AITKIN, Ulan. CAMP PORTAGE, Twenty Miles Below Grand Rapids, August 3, 1881. 'E were detained at Grand Rapids until after dinner, in consequence of a heavy thunder-storm, which set in early in the morning and continued throughout the forenoon. Before leaving this place we pro- vided ourselves with ten pounds of flour, the same quantity of bacon, one pound of coifee and three of sugar, rations considered necessary to carry us to Aitkin. George and Paine were compelled to exchange their birch canoe for a new one, as it had been rendered onsea worthy through the rough usage incident to our long voyage. Re-embarked at one o'clock after shaking hands with every man in the place, a thing which we were not likely to attempt in towns farther down the stream. The storm had passed away, leaving a genial temperature and a placid surface, with the current somewhat accelerated by the storm of the forenoon. We dipped our paddles with increased energy and made good progress toward the close 9f the day. (130) GRAND RAPIDS TO AITKIN. .fourteenth Dau. CAMP THUNDER, Seventy-five Miles Below Grand Rapids, August Fourth. Put our canoes into the water a few minutes after six o'clock in the morning. "We noted a decided change in the scenery. Higher banks and greater variety of trees, grasses and flowers. Halted for dinner near the mouth of Swan River. This is a considerable stream, originating in Swan Lake, near the source of the Saint Louis River, which empties into Lake Superior. The current of the Mississippi continued to in- crease in strength ; its velocity during the descent of this day was estimated by Paine at two and a half miles per hour. We passed a rapid a few miles below Trout River, where there is a computed descent of three feet in a hundred and fifty yards. We met the City of Aitkin, a small steamboat, late in the afternoon, on its way from Aitkin to Grand Rapids. This pioneer craft was commanded by Cap- tain Houghton of the former place, and deserves special mention as the first boat propelled by steam which we had thus far seen in the descent of the river. The clatter of a stern-wheel, much puffing and blowing, followed by the report of several shots fired by sportive passengers, betokened the approach of this wonder of the Upper Mississippi. The captain of the Aitkin and his gallant crew must have been well advised of our movements, for, as soon as they had reached a point opposite the one we had taken on the shore, they saluted us with several rounds of 132 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. cheers, supplemented by a general discharge of fire- arms. Thiscompliment was reciprocated on our part by three cheers and a Chippewa yell for Captain Hough ton. We disembarked a few minutes after six o'clock and, hurriedly pitching our tents, took shelter from a heavy thunder-storm which set in just as we were pulling our canoes from the water. In spite of every precaution our tents were blown down and all hands thoroughly drenched by the rain which fell upon us in torrents. The tents were pitched again, and again dashed to the ground by the wind, which came whist- ling and roaring through the pines about us. Hfteentlj Dan. CAMP MOSQUITO, Twenty-eight Miles Above Aitkin, August Fifth. The rain-storm which opened as we were pitching our tents at Camp Thunder continued throughout the night, and we found clothing, blankets and equipments thoroughly soaked in the morning. Breakfasted on bread, bacon and coffee. Got into our canoes at seven o'clock. Met a party of Indians in the forenoon coming up the river. Halted and talked with them a few minutes through Lagard, who had seen two of their number some years before. Stopped at a log-cabin in the afternoon and secured bread and vegetables of an Indian woman who was the wife of a white man. She spoke very indifferent English, but her children readily understood our wants, and when they had communicated them she seemed to find pleasure in supplying us with the best her humble cabin afforded. GRAND RAPIDS TO AITKIN. 133 Camp Mosquito, like most of our encampments, was located on high ground, overlooking the Missis- sippi, and, being in a bend of the river, gave us a fine view of the surrounding country. It may here be observed that the course of the Mississippi, below the Falls of Pokegama, is still serpentine, but strikingly less so than above, and its bends are not so short and abrupt. Its general course, until it reaches the rock formation of Pokegama, is easterly ; thence to Sandy Lake inlet it flows in a south-easterly direction ; from this point to the inlet of Crow Wing it is de- flected to the southwest; thence, almost due south, to the mouth of the Watab River ; and thence again south- east to the Falls of Saint Anthony. A geographical line dropped from the inlet of Sandy Lake, where the channel is first deflected, to the south-west, to the mouth of the Minnesota River, forms a vast bow-shaped area of prairie and forest lands of high agricultural capa- bilities, whose products will reach eastern and southern markets through the railways and waterways now opened and opening for the convenience of the settler. These prairies and grove lauds constitute the ancient area of the Isati, described by Hennepin, and are now known chiefly as having been the predatory border, or battle-ground, of the Sioux, Dakotas and Chippe- was. 0brtcentl) )aj). DOUGLASS HOUSE, A it kin, Minnesota, August Sixth. Struck tents in the morning with high hopes the prospect of reaching Aitkin in season for dinner. Since leaving Winuibegoshish "Aitkin" had been the first 134 DOWN THE CHEAT RIVER. word in the morning and the last word at night. It meant something more than a return to civilization; it meant, for the remainder of our voyage, less exposure, better accommodations and more congenial surround- ings than had fallen to our lot in the Chippewa country. We reached the mouth of Mud River at two o'clock. Listening to the advice of Lagard we attempted to paddle up to Aitken, but found the stream too shal- low and the current too strong to make it practicable, so I ordered my canoe, the Discovery, ashore and walked up to the village. George and his new pilot, whom he had christened " Commodore," continued for a time their endeavor to arrive at Aitken from the water front, but much to their chagrin capsized about three hundred yards below the town, in three feet of water. Beyond being thoroughly soaked, however, they were not injured, and George added another chapter to his already long list of mishaps. Just as his birch was rolling its occupants into the water he set us all roaring with laughter by singing out to his pilot: "Don't get wet, Commodore! Stick to the canoe! Nothing so refreshing as the bottom of Mud River! " Distance traversed this day about thirty miles. La- gard left for Leech Lake soon after our arrival, with the intention of rejoining us at Brainerd and continuing with us in our voyage to the Gulf. - Aitkin is the county-seat of Aitkin County, the most northern settlement of any importance on the Mississippi, and the nearest to its source. The county of which it forms the capital has an area of nineteen hundred square miles, and contains a scattered popu- lation of only about four hundred, half of which number are found in the town of Aitken. The latter GRAND RAPIDS TO AITKIN. 135 is situated on Mud River, near its confluence with the Mississippi, and was founded by William Aitkin, an enterprising fur trader, about the year 1832. The inhabitants for the most part are actively engaged in the lumber trade. Situated on the line of the North- ern Pacific Railway and at the junction of two rivers, one of them the greatest waterway on the continent, Aitken has, in consequence, within the last few years, become a flourishing centre of the lumber interest, and will doubtless make rapid progress in population and the development of its industry. It is distant from Duluth in a westerly direction only eighty-eight miles and, connected with the last-named city by railway, commands transportation facilities on both Lake Superior and the Mississippi. CHAPTER XII. TEN DAYS AT AITKIN. Reorganization Lecture Appointments Modern Canoes. N order to perfect plans for a continuation of the descent of the Mississippi, reor- ganize our little party, inspect the new canoes which were awaiting us, prepare the lecture which I proposed to deliver at certain points, and send forward an advance agent, I concluded to remain a few days at Aitkin. Ten days were thus consumed and profitably employed. Mine host of the hotel, Carlos Douglass, I found genial, hospitable and communicative; and to him we were indebted for comforts of which we had been for some time necessarily deprived. He also directed our rambles on the outskirts of the town and added much to the enjoyment of our stay here. The soil of the surrounding country is rich, and produces boun- teously, the surface being interspersed with numerous small lakes of clear, fresh water abounding in fish, and their shores covered with a fine growth of pine, spruce and tamarack. At Aitkin we dispensed with two of our birch-bark canoes, retaining only one for myself for my journey (136) TEN DAYS AT AITKIN. 137 down to Saint Paul. Two modern canoes had been pre- viously purchased at Saint Paul and forwarded to Ait- kin to meet us on our arrival. One of these, a Rushton canoe, was built by a native of Saint Lawrence County, New York, in the neighborhood of my old home. While on my way up the river I had met Mr. A. H. Seigfried at Saint Paul. This gentleman is an attache 1 of the Saint Paul Pioneer Press, and a veteran canoeist J he very courteously offered to place at my disposal his canoe, as being well adapted, in his judgment, for navigating the Mississippi. This snug craft was Rushton'a " No. 93," and was designed to carry two persons. It had full bearings, a seven-feet cockpit, and consequently was sufficiently roomy. It was fitted with back-board, cushion and the necessary double- blade paddles. The keel and stern were of oak, the ribs of red elm, and the sides of white cedar. Her length was sixteen feet, width at the bottom of the top streak thirty inches, and on the top twenty-eight inches. The depth of gunwale was nine and one- half inches ; between deck and floor, twelve inches, and at the ends, seventeen inches. Her weight, without fittings, was eighty pounds ; and though her capacity was set down at two persons, we afterwards found it was not impossible to carry three. She was one of the several patterns of Rushton's "American Travel- ing Canoe," and could be fitted with a leg-of-rnutton sail and used as a sailing boat. However, hoisting sail on so light a craft on the Mississippi involved a risk, which, in our inexperience, we did not care to run ; so stuck to our paddles throughout the entire voyage. On reaching Aitkin on our way down the river I found the following letter, among others, awaiting me : 138 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. "PIONEER PRESS," Saint Paul, Minnesota, July 28, 1881. CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER, Aitkin, Minnesota: MY DEAR SIR : I am advised by Mr. Warren Potter, of Aitkin, that the boats have both arrived there, and are in his charge. I hand you herewith Mr. Hinckley's receipt, and bill-of-lading of my boat. Expecting to be absent from the second to the thirteenth of August, inclusive, I may not be here to receive the news of your arrival at Aitkin, but hope you may not reach Saint Paul ahead of me. I want to have a little pull down the Wisconsin, and shall hope to meet you here in due time. Yours very truly, A. H. SEIQFRIED. During my halt at Saint Paul on my way north, Mr. Seigfried had made me acquainted with H. L. Hinck- ley, a gentleman largely interested in canoes and their patrons, and having under his control quite a fleet of all sizes -and builds on White-Bear Lake, a beautiful sheet of water near Saint Paul. From this gentleman I obtained much information of a practical character. Mr. Hinckley showed me several of his canoes, and offered valuable suggestions as to the selection of a second boat for the accommodation of our small party. I concluded to take a " Racine Saint Paul," built on the Rob Roy pattern. As all canoeists are aware, the "Rob Roy" was the canoe originally adopted by Mr. Macgregor, and in build is a cross between the " birch-bark " of the Indians and the " kyak " of the Esquimaux. It is long and pointed, each end contain- ing a water-tight compartment. In my judgment the " Rob Roy " pattern is the best boat for cruising on lakes and rivers, its build combining strength with lightness. Mr. Macgregor circumnavigated the Baltic Sea in his fourteen -feet " Rob Roy," coasted the bays TEN DAYS AT AITKIN. \ 39 and inlets of Sweden and Norway, and threaded the Danube, the Nile, and the Jordan. The "Racine Saint Paul," being an improved " Rob Roy," was a better-sailing craft and possessed equally good pad- dling qualities. The length of her deck was fourteen feet ; greatest beam, twenty -six inches ; depth from top of gunwale, twenty-one inches, with a cockpit eighteen by forty-two inches. She was propelled by a double- bladed paddle, and was capable of supporting the weight of a man if the middle was full of water. She was, therefore, to all intents and purposes, a life-boat, which it was impossible to swamp. Like the Rushton canoe, the " Saint Paul " could be fitted with a sail, but we preferred to make our enterprise a veritable canoe voyage, and so dispensed with a sail in her case also. The subjoined letter, referring to the boat purchased of Mr. Hinckley, also reached me here: WHITE-BEAR LAKE, Near Saint Paid, Minnesota, August 9, 1881. CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER, Ailkin, Minnesota: DEAR SIR : I have read in the papers of your arrival at the source of the Mississippi, and presume that you are now well on your way back to Saint Paul. Thinking you were beyond the reach of mail-carriers, I have delayed writing you, and perhaps delayed too long. As to the " Rushton " canoe which I shipped to Aitkin for you, I found it difficult to arrange the air-chambers so as to be promptly taken out and put in, as was my first intention. They can be re- moved by taking out a few screws, but this may be found somewhat troublesome. If, in this particular, or any other, the boat does not satisfy you, I trust we shall be able to arrange matters before you start southward from this point. If you find the canoe too small for your purpose it will not be too late to substitute one of my larger boats, one which I feel sure will be well adapted for your voyage on the lower Mississippi. I 140 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. consider the canoe yon purchased of me well adapted for two men, with a moderate amount of baggage. She has carried three men, but I would not recommend more than two. I wrote Mr. Warren Potter, of Aitkin, concerning a small piece of work on the boat which had been overlooked before she left Saint Paul. I hope my letter will reach you at Aitkin, and wishing you fair weather and a comfortable time generally, I am very truly yours, H. L. HlNCKLEY. CHAPTER XIII. AITKIN TO BRAINERD. PINE KNOLL, Thirty Miles Below Aitkin, August. 16, 1881. N the morning of the sixteenth of August our little fleet metaphorically weighed anchor and set sail from Aitkin in other words, we launched our canoes and paddled out into the stream in presence of a considerable number of the inhabitants, who had assembled on the banks to witness our departure and wish us a successful voyage. As captain of the Discovery, I led the way, my entire crew consisting of a pilot engaged at Aitkin. Follow- ing me came my brother in the Rushton canoe, which we had named the Alice after my little daughter. He was also accompanied by a pilot. Mr. Paine in. the Itasca, as we had christened the Rob Roy, though not "an elderly naval man," might have appropri- ately recited : " Oh, I am a cook and a captain bold, And the mate of this canoe; And a bo'sun tight and a midshipmile, And the crew and pilot too;" (HI) 142 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. not because he had dined on his crew, but because he sat alone in his Rob Roy, and their duties devolved on him. Thus we glided from this hospitable shore, our immediate destination being Brainerd, ninety-five miles distant by the river, but only twenty-seven as the crow flies, the Mississippi along its entire length being very tortuous. We might have saved ourselves many miles of canoeing by making portages. In one instance the river took a sweep of seven miles, and returned to within five rods of its starting point. In this section it is about fifty yards in width, with a current of about six miles an hour. It frequently changes its course. " Snags " and " sawyers " abound, but gave us little trouble, our small light craft easily gliding around them. The National Government is busy, even here, in removing obstructions, and the day is not distant when a line of small steamers will run between Aitkin and Brainerd. The banks of the river are low, rising but a few feet above its surface, while broad savannas, covered in summer with blue- grass from six to eight feet in height, are spread over a wide extent of country, commencing at the borders of the river, and are annually submerged at high water. The grass makes excellent fodder for stock. The timber of this region is chiefly pine, with occa- sionally a clump of spruce or tamarack. The surface of the land away from the river is somewhat rugged ; and the frequent windings of the stream, the green savannas, and the sombre forests, unite in producing a very pleasing landscape. Water-fowl are found in abundance on all the upper waters of the Mississippi, and while mosquitoes exceed them in numbers, they may almost be said to rival them in size ! New Jersey AITKIN TO BRAINERD. 143 and Florida are famed for their mosquitoes. The swamps and bayous of Louisiana have their myriads; but of all these pestiferous insects I have ever seen and suffered from, I can truthfully say that the mos- quitoes of the valley of the Upper Mississippi in numbers and voraciousness are unequalled. Between Aitkin and Brainerd there were but two habitations to be seen from the river. With this ex- ception, all was a solitary wilderness. The day was wearing to its close when we came in sight of the first of these rustic homes. It was a log-cabin perched upon the western bank of the river, and occupied by an American named John Polly and his family. The bank, which they had named "Pine Knoll," was steep perhaps twenty feet in height. Ascending it with some difficulty we challenged the hospitality of the household. Half a dozen daughters of the house, ranging from ten years upwards, greeted us, and we were at once made cordially welcome. The cabin com- prised two rooms and a loft. It was built in a clearing and surrounded by beech, birch, and maple trees. The proprietor, Mr. Polly, had a thriving garden, in which were promising crops of corn and potatoes, and his stock appeared in fine condition, while the industry and good taste of the young maidens had made the exterior of the premises bright with flowers. The interior was plain, and contained only the rude furni- ture of the pioneer, but it bore a homelike and com- fortable look ; and copies of " Harper's Monthly " and the " Century," together with other current literature, were lying upon the table, while the walls were decorated with sundry wood engravings extracted from the illustrated weeklies. The family proved to be a 144 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. very superior one. They had resided in half a dozen different states, and had finally found a home in this wilderness ; the nearest white settlement being Aitkin, twenty miles distant by the river. After a pleasant evening's intercourse with the family the hour came for retiring, and we bunked upon the floor, the cabin affording no better sleeping accommoda- tion for casual visitors, who seldom if ever trouble their domestic arrangements and circumscribed limits. We might have reposed peacefully through the night, had not a sudden and severe thunder-storm sent rivulets of water through the cracks and fissures of the log struct- ure, which meandered in numerous and vigorous streams across the floor on which we had made our beds. Mrs. Polly was much annoyed at this state of things, and with many apologies endeavored to convince us that she was very much surprised at such an occurrence. The storm came to an end about midnight; the water was mopped up, and, wrapping our blankets once more about us, we lay down again upon our damp couch, and slept soundly till day- light. CAMP DISCOMFORT, Mouth of Pine River, Minnesota, August Seventeenth. Launched our canoes at seven o'clock, with colors flying and all hands in the best of spirits. After presenting each member of our party with a bouquet the Pollys took position on the bank of the river and waved us off. A mile below Pine Knoll we passed the Sioux AITKIN TO BRAINERD. 145 Portage, so named from an incident connected with it, which was told to us by Mr. Polly, who explained that some ten or fifteen years before a band of Chippewas were descending the river closely pursued by a party of Sioux. The Chippewas, not being entirely familiar with its course, continued down the river, which here makes an extended detour to the eastward, then^ retraces its course westward, on a nearly parallel line. The Sioux, better informed, made a portage of about fifty yards and then, reaching a point down stream, placed themselves in ambush upon the bank, awaiting the arrival of the Chippewas. The latter, supposing their enemies still in pursuit in their canoes, were completely surprised when the Sioux opened fire upon them from a point in advance, and the whole party were massacred in their boats. Late in the afternoon one of our canoes was unfor- tunately capsized ; the men who were in it regained the shore with some difficulty, but much of the lug- gage was lost or damaged. We had scarcely repaired, as much as lay in our power, the effects of this accident, when we observed the heavens overcast with dark clouds, portending an approaching storrn. We imme- diately landed near the junction of Pine River, with a view to protecting our persons and stores from the rain. About seven o'clock in the evening the storm broke out with more violence than is usually noted in this latitude. The precautions which we had taken proved of but little or no avail. The stores, which had been carefully packed in a canoe, and covered up as well as our limited means permitted, were much damaged by the water. The tents were pitched in as favorable a spot with respect to the trees as the ground would 146 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. admit of, but not sufficiently so to render our position either safe or comfortable. Several trees in the vicinity of our encampment were struck by lightning, and the wind blew with such force that the crash of fallino 1 o timber was frequently heard during the night. Notwithstanding the comfortless situation in which we found ourselves, there was an irresistible interest in the scene. A storm is at all times one of the most splendid phenomena in nature; but when experienced in the gloomy forests of the Mississippi, in the midst of a solitude, with no companions but a few fellow- sufferers standing in a shivering attitude around a small fire, it receives additional interest; every flash of lightning displays a scene which the painter would wish to fix upon the canvas. The loud peals of thunder resound more forcibly when reverberated by the rocky bluffs which border upon the river, and they contrast sublimely with the low but uninterrupted mut- tering of the waters. Although our tents were pitched soon after disem- barking, we found it quite impracticable to occupy them, as our clothing, blankets, and in fact the ground itself, was thoroughly soaked. To avoid drowsiness we drank large quantities of coffee, and at the request of my companions I entertained them with the story of my capture, imprisonment and escape during the late war. Beginning with my capture in Northern "Virginia in the fall of 1863, I went back again to Libby Prison, journeyed in cattle-cars to Danville, told them of the prison-pen at Macon and its " tun- nels ; " then of our sojourn at Savannah ; our experi- ence at Charleston " under fire," and our removal to the capital of the Palmetto State. I escaped again AITKIN TO SEAINERD. 147 from Columbia; wandered through the swamps of Carolina and Georgia ; was recaptured, tried as a spy at Springfield ; escaped from Sylvania and reached the Federal lines at Savannah just as day was breaking. We passed at the mouth of Pine River one of the most wretched nights of our long voyage, relieved somewhat, perhaps, by a narration of events which I had hardly recurred to in many years. PRIVATE HOUSE, . Brainerd, Minnesota, August Eighteenth. We drank more coffee at sunrise, and breakfasted on bread and bacon. Put our paddles into the water at six o'clock, and with favorable weather pulled with a will for Brainerd, our evening destination. Halted at one o'clock at the mouth of a small creek three miles above Brainerd, and had dinner in the shade of a large tree. Re-embarked at four o'clock in the afternoon. We had scarcely proceeded a mile when we were met by a large number of ladies and gentlemen in canoes and skiffs, including a detachment of the Brainerd Boat Club. Among those who were prominent in re- ceiving us were Warren Leland, Arthur E. Chase, of the Tribune, and Dr. Rosser, brother of General Rosser, late of the Confederate service. Our greeting by these genial people, whom we had left some six weeks previously when starting for the head- waters of the Mississippi, was most cordial, and will not soon fade from the memory of those who were the recip- ients of their courtesies. That evening, in accordance with an appointment, 148 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. I delivered the first lecture of my trip in Ely's Hall, after an introduction by Judge Chauncy B. Sleeper. The audience was large and attentive, and the subject presented was, " Pioneers of the Mississippi," in which I talked of De Soto, Marquette, La Salle, Hennepin, and others who had engaged in the ex- ploration of the Great River. Several of my hearers showed their interest in the subject by coming long distances to the lecture, and one, George Barclay, a pioneer, told me he had brought his family thirty- seven miles with an ox-team to hear what I had to say of the old explorers. An event subjecting me to some inconvenience at the time, but amusing in many of its details, occurred at this place. As the flotilla of citizens met me upon the river, the first question with which I was hailed was : " Captain, what did you have in your trunk ? " I thought it a singular question, to say the least, and did not at first know whether to set it down to abso- lute impertinence or merely to the excessive but in- nocent curiosity of frontiersmen. However, the mat- ter was soon explained. My trunk, containing cloth- ing and other personal effects, had been despatched from Aitkin to Brainerd, and on the previous evening the express office in which it was stored had been broken into and the trunk stolen. The thieves had taken it into a pine thicket on the outskirts of the town and there rifled and distributed its contents among themselves. Fortunately for my lecture appointment I had brought a coat and vest with me in the canoe. At the very time I was delivering my lecture a half dozen ruffians, with my clothing on, were walking the streets of Brainerd. What they had no personal AITKIN TO BRAINERD. 149 use for, they had pawned in the saloons for liquor. The beaded pipe and tobacco pouch presented me by Flat- mouth, with a pair of moccasins, were left at a saloon as a consideration for half a dozen drinks. A mos- quito-helmet, made of bolting-cloth by my wife before we started for Northern Minnesota, and the use of which they failed to recognize, was offered and re- ceived in pawn as a dress. After the thieves had drunk quite freely at my expense, they went out to the " Last Turn," as a certain locality with a history is called, and lay down in a row in a state of intoxication. The Northern Pacific Express Company, in whose charge the trunk had been placed, took active meas- ures to discover the guilty parties and succeeded in finding and arresting them with some of my clothing still upon them. On the following morning I was sub- poenaed to give evidence against them, and went out with the district attorney through the streets of the town in search of stray articles of apparel. During this search I met a man having on the pair of cavalry boots which I had worn on my horseback journey across the continent in 1876. We picked up articles here and there, some of which, as has already been mentioned, had been pawned. At the examination which ensued, a man who ex- pressed willingness to testify against the thieves was a little snubbed by the prosecuting attorney, who thought that he probably knew very little about the affair. But when his turn came to take the witness-stand, he told a straightforward and interesting story. He said he happened to pass the thieves in the woods, while they were engaged in the disposition of their booty, and thinking their proceeding a little strange, asked 9 150 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. them what they were doing. They replied that they had just arrived from New York, and being too poor to go to a hotel, had decided to take advantage of the grand dressing-room which nature had furnished them, and make their toilet under the trees. They finally made their questioner a present of a shirt and a pair of drawers. The witness concluded his testimony by throwing open his coat and exclaiming, "And I've got one of Captain Glazier's shirts on now, your Honor!" The shirt spoke for itself, as my name was marked upon it. His evidence and mine were conclusive, and the thieves were remanded to appear at the next term of court. They were not persons, however, to be easily disconcerted, for while the testimony was being given, one of them drew a bottle of whiskey from his pocket, and passing it up to the judge, invited him to take a drink. It is needless to add that he was promptly reprimanded. Brainerd has already been referred to as a thriving town. It is situated on the borders of an extensive pine forest, in a bend of the Mississippi, at the cross- ing of the river by the Northern Pacific Railroad. It is ninety-five miles below Aitkin by river, but only twenty-eight by railway. The town is literally built among the pine trees, the streets having been cut di- rectly through the original forest, and only such trees removed as were necessary for building and business purposes. Brainerd is the second town from the source of the river, and, after Saint Paul and Minneapo- lis, one of the most enterprising and populous on the Upper Mississippi. Seen from the river, which winds around it, it is very picturesque, the tall pines, straight as au arrow, overtopping the houses. Without a, AITKIN TO BRAINERD. 151 history, this town appears to have leaped into exist- ence with a considerable population, mostly of New England origin, and will doubtless in a few years be- come a city of respectable dimensions. The "North- ern Pacific " has its shops located here, and this cir- cumstance, together with the large and growing lum- ber interest, and the spirit and enterprise of the people who have cast their lot in this section, have given Brainerd its present prominence and prospective im- portance as a centre of industry. It is the capital of Crow Wing County is one hundred and thirty-six miles northwest of Saint Paul by railway, and supports a weekly paper and a bank. The population at the time of my visit was about three thousand five hun- dred. CHAPTER XIV, BRAINERD TO MONTICELLO. (tentn-mutl) ?Dan. PRIVATE HOUSE, Crow Wing, Minnesota, August 19, 1881. 'ETWEEN two and three o'clock in the afternoon a considerable number of the citizens of Brainerd accompanied us to the bank of the river to witness the launch of our canoes and to send after us their good wishes. Warren Leland gave my canoe its send-off, and we were soon out of hear- ing of the cheers of the friendly multitude upon the shore. We halted at nightfall at Crow Wing, where we found shelter and food at the home of Charles Bailey, who, though he kept no regular hotel, welcomed strangers under his roof. He entertained us through- out the evening with stories of his hunting exploits, some of which almost rivalled the adventures ot Mun- chausen, and which he told so gracefully and with such an air of innocence and plausibility as to make them most convincing. He had killed, if I remember correctly, on some occasions, not less" than forty deer in a single day, while the narration of his encounters 152 BRAINEED TO MONTICELLO. 153 with bears and wolves was quite enough to make the hair of the listener stand on end. What our host did not know of hunting and, I might add, of story-tell- ing, was hardly worth knowing. Crow Wing, a little hamlet of half a dozen farm- houses, is situated on the eastern bank of the Missis- sippi, just below its junction with Crow Wing River. Its history is brief. It was at one time a mission- station, and then aspired to become the great town of the Upper Mississippi; but the Northern Pacific Railroad dealt its death-blow by locating on a higher parallel of latitude and making its crossing of the river at Brainerd. VASSALY HOUSE, Little Falls, Minnesota, August Twentieth. At seven o'clock in the morning we were again afloat. The day was a beautiful one, and the current being perceptibly stronger, we made rapid progress towards Little Falls, our evening destination. We were, however, unexpectedly delayed by an occurrence which, while it flattered our importance, gave expres- sion to a generous impulse on the part of the citizens we were about to visit. When within about a mile and a half of Little Falls, we were suddenly startled by the appearance of two strangers who hailed us and introduced themselves as Judge A. F. Story, and A. J. Pierson, editor of the Transcript. They had hur- ried across a bend of the river to intercept us before reaching the town, and with many apologies and ex- pressions of welcome and good feeling, begged us to 154 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. delay our approach to the town for an hour. The ex- planation they gave for this singular request was extremely complimentary to our little party of ex- plorers/ Preparations, they said, were being made for our reception, which, as they were not quite completed, would be spoiled by our premature advent upon the scene. They added that they had seen us coming down the river, and had rushed in hot haste to en- deavor to persuade us to defer for an hour our arrival at the town. We, of course, readily complied with so kind and flattering a request, and at the expiration of about an hour resumed our paddles and started ex- pectantly for the landing. Before reaching this spot, however, we were met by a small fleet of row-boats filled with citizens anxious to be the first to extend a welcome to us; while on the river banks it appeared that half the population of Little Falls had assembled to greet our arrival. A temporary landing stage had been improvised expressly for our accommodation, a brass band saluted us with a lively air, while cheers and words of welcome met us on every side. Being called upon for a speech, I offered a few remarks, thanking the good citizens for the interest they mani- fested in my undertaking, and explaining briefly its character and aims. At the conclusion of my remarks we were escorted to the Vassaly House by Judge Story and a number of citizens, including the band, which honored us with sundry airs deemed by them appropriate to the occasion, and thus added not a little to our entertainment. In the evening I delivered my lecture to an attentive audience in Vassaly Hall, ac- cording to previous appointment. BBAINEBD TO MONTICELLO. J55 Sfyirtipfirst JDan. FARM HOUSE, Thirty Miles Below Little Folia, August Twenty-first. The day following our arrival at Little Falls being Sunday, we decided not to re-embark until afternoon. During the morning we received calls from a number of the leading citizens, among whom were Moses La- fond, one of the oldest residents, if not the very oldest; and Hon. Nathan Richardson, an ex-member of the State Legislature. The latter showed us many relics gathered in the State strongly corroborating the theory of a pre-historic race, and gave us much valua- ble information concerning the early history of this section of Minnesota. The river at this point is divided by an island, on the eastern side of which the current is very swift, while on the western side the stream rushes along in a torrent, boiling and whirling over the rocks and bowlders in a descent of some twenty feet in perhaps eighty rods. This is the most considerable fall of the Mississippi between Pokegama and Saint Anthony. A rumor had been circulated in the town that we in- tended shooting the falls and rapids of the Mississippi from its source to its mouth ! Hence, when prepared to embark and continue our cruise, a number of the worthy citizens assembled to see us shoot Little Falls a feat, it was said, which had never before been at- tempted. I may here say that the rumor was entirely without foundation. I was in no sense sportively in- clined, nor even possessed the qualification of an adept at handling a canoe under difficulties, and my long 156 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. journey had been projected and undertaken, not with a view of displaying any extraordinary feats of nau- tical skill or physical endurance, but with the milder object of adding, if possible, to the geographical knowl- edge of this section of our country, and at the same time afford myself an opportunity of studying the character of our great North American river and the cities and people that lined its banks, extending over a distance of some twenty degrees of latitude. This op- portunity I should have failed in finding by the or- dinary and swifter mode of traveling by railway or steamboat. I therefore declined to make a spectacle of myself by shooting the falls, preferring to make a portage around them. My brother George, however, younger and more venturesome in such matters than myself, determined to give the people the show they were expecting, and, entering his Rushton canoe, soon Avent bounding over the steep descent. By a skilful use of his paddle he managed to steer clear of the bowlders in his course, and further, to show his daring, stood upright for a minute or two. The descent was of course very rapid, and he soon reached the more placid current at the foot of the falls. The Alice had carried him securely over, springing buoyantly over the surging waters, swerving readily at command of the paddle, and accomplishing, without injury to herself or her passenger, what few canoes of so light a build would be capable of doing, and fewer amateur canoeists would, I think, have had the temerity to undertake. Below the falls we found the strongest current we had yet encountered, and during the afternoon ran no less than thirteen rapids, including Pike Rapids. BE Al NERD TO MONTICELLO. 157 During our lightning progress down the hitter, we scarcely knew, for three-quarters of a mile, whether we should find ourselves at the end ou the surface, or at the bottom of the river. Our canoes were filled with water, and we received a most thorough drenching. This section of the Mississippi presents a succession of rapids as far down as Saint Cloud. As night approached we halted near the residence of Mrs. William McNeil, a widow. This lady was successfully conducting a tolerably large farm, and with true western hospitality tendered us a night's accommodation in her dwelling. A volume treating of western scenes and people would be incomplete if it made no reference to the western women. The isolated life which many of them lead, and the insuf- ficiency of domestic help, together with the vicissi- tudes of the pioneer, have developed a race of sturdy, self-reliant women, lacking, let me be understood, in no womanly graces; but supplementing these with strong traits of character which make them fit com- panions of the brave, stalwart and enterprising men whose wives, daughters and sisters they are. It is no uncommon thing in the northwest, should a husband die, fop the widow to assume the business and conduct it- quite as successfully as her late husband had done during his life. Many of the farms managed by women in Minnesota, Wisconsin and Iowa are as prosperous in appearance, as well and thriftily man- aged, and equally as remunerative, as those in the hands of the men. Their feminine capabilities and talents are moreover practically demonstrated in many ways among the intelligent communities of the frontier. 153 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Daw. WEST HOUSE, Saint Cloud, Minnesota, August Twenty-second. Embarking at the usual hour in the morning, we were met by a strong head-wind, against which it seemed almost impossible to advance. The river was widening and the country adjacent had been longer settled, leaving fewer trees upon its banks for protec- tion. About noon we reached Sauk Rapids, having a fall of about twenty feet in the course of sixty rods, which my brother successfully passed over, but the re- maining members of the party, less adventurous, again preferred carrying their canoes around the rapids to the risk of being swamped in their descent. My brother reached Saint Cloud in advance of us, and returned accompanied by a son of Captain West, a prominent resident, who kindly escorted us to the landing where an assemblage of citizens awaited us. In the evening I delivered my lecture at the Opera House, being introduced to the audience by Judge L. A. Evans. Among those who called upon me were several clergymen, including a Catholic priest, and all evinced an intelligent interest in the purpose of my journey. Saint Cloud is very pleasantly located on the western bank of the Mississippi, just below Sauk Rapids. It is the capital of Stearns County, seventy-five miles north of Saint Paul by railway, and six hundred and seventy from the river's source. For some years it was considered the leading commercial and manufac- turing town of Northern Minnesota, and is one of the BEAINERD TO MONTICELLO. 159 oldest settlements in the State. Here we encountered the second bridge across the Mississippi, the first being at Brainerd. Saint Cloud has always been a busy town, having a population of about three thousand five hundred, and is characterized by a spirit of enterprise. It has a public library, a state normal school, and two banks; two newspapers, one of which was edited by Jane Grey Swisshelm, a lady of wide reputation as a writer; several saw, planing and flour mills, foundries and other industrial establishments; all of which ap- peared to be in a highly flourishing condition. A con- siderable acreage of wheat and other cereals is raised in this vicinity, and the future of this progressive little city is sure to be prosperous. PRIVATE HOUSE, Monticello, Minnesota, August Twenty-third. A strong southerly wind faced us in the morning when we pushed off from the crowded landing-place, and our day's work was the most trying we had en- countered since leaving Brainerd. We had forty-three miles to paddle with a slack current, but finally reached Monticello between four and five o'clock in the afternoon, considerably fjrtigued by the effort ex- pended in pulling against the high wind. A cordial welcome awaited us, however, from the people lining the beach, while a band, brought out for the occasion, struck up a lively air, and afterward volunteered to play at my lecture. On this occasion I was intro- duced to my audience by Mr. Henry Kreis, a substitute for the gentleman who had been appointed to perform 160 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. that ceremony, but was prevented by unforeseen cir- cumstances from appearing. Only the day before, the gentleman in question had had an altercation with a fellow-citizen which resulted in his kicking his op- ponent down-stairs, and this serious breach of good manners and of law and order had ended by his being temporarily lodged in jail. His son called on me bearing the apologies of his father and a message to the effect that an important legal engagement alone prevented him from fulfilling his appointment with me. It is well to add that this gentleman was one of the most highly respected citizens of the town, and that public opinion appeared to be strongly in his favor. Monticello is a pleasant little town of from four to five hundred inhabitants. Hon. Samuel E. Adams, editor of the Monticello Times, and one of the pioneers of this part of Minnesota, extended many courtesies to our little party; and here I met two of my cousins, sons of Henry Glazier, who had been a resident of the State for many years, and one of the early settlers of Wright County. CHAPTER XV. MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. SHERBURNE HOUSE, Elk River, Minnesota, August 24, 1881. spent the morning with uncle Henry's family at their home in Monticello; walked down to the landing after din- ner, accompanied by cousins Ward and George Glazier, Mr. Adams and others to whom we had been introduced during our sojourn. A waving of handkerchiefs, the discharge of firearms and the prolonged cheering which followed the launch of our canoes, bespoke the kindly interest felt in us, and for our undertaking. Large numbers of country people were assembled at many points along the river to see us pass. We still found river-drivers, wongans, logs, booms, jams and, in fact, we were told that we should meet these peculiarities of the Upper Mississippi as far as La Crosse. The village of Elk River is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi, opposite the river of this name which comes in from the west. Its population is quite small and probably does not exceed one hundred and fifty persons. 161 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. MISSISSIPPI HOUSE, Friedley, Minnesota, August Twenty-fifth. We took to water between nine and ten o'clock at Elk River. Firm southerly winds met us at the very outset and it was only by dint of a most persistent use of our paddles that we succeeded in forcing our canoes down stream. George having left us at Elk River in order to arrange for my lecture at Minneapolis, had encumbered us with an extra canoe which tended largely to impede our progress, as we were compelled to tow it at our stern. Anoka was reached soon after one o'clock. It was our intention to pass this place, as it stands some distance back on a tributary of the Mississippi, but being blown ashore we concluded to walk up to the town, where we had dinner at a restaurant. After a stroll through some of the leading streets of this enterprising little city, we returned to our canoes and continued our course toward Friedley, at which place we disembarked a few minutes before sunset. Friedley, or Fridley, as it is sometimes spelled, is a small hamlet in Anoka County, of less than three hundred inhabitants, and is some seven miles above Minneapolis. It enjoyed a bubble reputation some years ago, being looked upon by its founders as the future great city of the Upper Mississippi, but like many another its site was unfavorable, and it has been so overshadowed by its more fortunate rivals that it is now seldom mentioned, except in connection with its past aspirations. MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. \ <&l)trtt)~sUl!) JDcro. Nl COLLET HOUSE, Minneapolis, Minnesota, August Twenty-sixth. "We spent the morning iu our quiet retreat at Friedley. My notes, covering our voyage from Aitkin, were perfected at this place and business and private correspondence attended to. Re-embarked soon after dinner, and aided by a strong current dropped down to within three miles of the Falls of Saint Anthony, where we were compelled to take our canoes out of the water owing to the prev- alence of jams and log-booms. The canoes were car- ried through Minneapolis and around the cataract on a farm wagon. After they had been carefully placed in a storehouse and we had registered at the "Nicollet," I walked out to the Falls. Long before coming in sight of this grand spectacle, the ear is greeted by the deep, solemn roar that truly resembles the " sound of many waters." The pulse of the traveler naturally quickens as he feels him- self approaching the scene where Father Hennepin, of old, was so moved with admiration as to christen the red man's falls after his patron saint. It ap- pears indeed as though some mighty strife were going on amid the elements, and as one advances, a strange, indescribable feeling steals over the senses, a feeling that awakens q, spirit of admiration for the handiwork of the Almighty. The Falls at length burst upon the enraptured view the celebrated Falls of Saint Anthony. One is not here so completely over- whelmed as when viewing the incomparable Niagara, 16(5 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER, with its great height of waterfall, its deafening roar, and the lofty character of its scenery. Saint Anthony is more within the grasp of human comprehension, nnd is therefore looked upon with greater pleasure. Niagara appears to wear a kind of threatening frown, while the former greets you with a winning and com- placent smile. Yet, on account of the vast body of water continually rushing over the rocky mass in the bed of the river, the scene is one of sublimity as well as one of loveliness and beauty. As I gazed on these falls and listened to the warring elements I was forcibly impressed with the truth of the beautiful lines of the poet Brainard : "And what are we, That hear the question of that voice sublime? Oh, what are all the notes that ever rung From war's vain trumpet, by thy thundering side? Yes, what is all the riot man can make In his short life, to thine unceasing roar? And yet, bold babbler, what art thou to Him Who drowned the world, and heaped the waters far Above its loftiest mountain ? A light wavs, That breaks and whispers at its Maker's might ! " Concerning the height of the fall and the breadth of the river at this point, much incorrect information has been published. Hennepin, who was the first white man to visit it, states it to be fifty or sixty feet high. It was this explorer who gave it the name which it now bears, in honor of Saint Anthony of Padua, whom he had taken for the protection of his discovery. Carver reduces its height to about thirty feet; his strictures upon Hennepin, however, whom he charges with exaggeration, might, with propriety, be retorted upon him, and we feel strongly inclined to say of him, as he said of his predecessor, " the good Father, I fear, MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. 107 too often had no other foundation for his accounts than report, or at most a slight inspection." Lieutenant Pike, who is more accurate than any traveler whom we have followed, states the perpendicular fall to be six- teen and a half feet. It was again measured in 1817 with a plumb-line, from the table rock from which the water was falling, and found to be the same. The measurement at this time was made with a rough water-level, which made it about fifteen feet. The difference of a foot is trifling and might depend upon the place where the measurement was made ; but we cannot account for the statement made by Schoolcraft that the river has a perpendicular pitch of forty feet* and this as late as fourteen years after Pike's measure- ment. The breadth of the river near the brink of the fall is five hundred and ninety-four yards. Below the fall it contracts to about two hundred yards. There is a considerable rapid both above and below, and a portage of two hundred and sixty poles in length was usually made here in pioneer days. The entire fall or differ- ence of level between the place of disembarking and reloading, was stated by Pike to be fifty-eight feet, which is, undoubtedly, very near the truth. The whole fall to the foot of the rapids, which extend sev- eral miles down the river, may be estimated at about one hundred feet. This romantic spot in the Mississippi is not without a legend to hallow its scenery and enhance the interest which of itself it is calculated to awaken. The follow- 'ing tragic story was current some years ago among the Indians and white settlers in the neighborhood of the Falls. Ampato Sapa, a youthful female, whose name 10 168 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. signifies the dark day, was united in marriage to a young Indian of the Dakota tribe. For several years they lived together happily and two children were born to them. Both parents doted on their children with a depth of feeling scarcely equaled by more civilized whites. The man became great as a hunter, and many of the surrounding families sought his guardianship and friendship, and shared the products of his chase. Some of them, anxious to strengthen their interest with the successful hunter, urged him to form a connection with their family, telling him that a second \vifewas indispensable to a man of his talent and importance, who would probably soon be acknowledged as a chief. The daughter of an influential man was presented to him, and, animated with the ambition of attaining to high honor in his nation by a union with the daughter of a man of great influence, he took a second wife, without mentioning the subject to the young mother of his children. Desirous of conciliating his first wife, for whom he still retained much regard, he introduced the subject to her in these words : " You know, Ampato, that I can love no woman so fondly as I do you. With deep regret I have seen you of late sub- jected to toils which must be oppressive, and from which I would gladly relieve you; yet I know of no other way of doing so than by associating with you in the duties of our household one who shall relieve you from the trouble of entertaining the numer- ous guests whom my growing importance in the nation collects around me. I have, therefore, resolved upon taking another wife, but she shall always be subject to your control." With the deepest concern his wife listened to this unexpected announcement. She remon- MONTI CELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. 171 strated with him in the kindest terms, and tearfully entreated by every consideration her devoted love could suggest, that he would not let another take her place oo ' * in his affections. The Indian, with much duplicity, still concealed from her the secret of his marriage with another, while she put forth her strongest appeals in the effort to convince him that she was equal to the tasks imposed upon her. She pleaded all the endear- ments of their past life, dwelling on his former fond- ness for her, his regard for her happiness and that of their children, and cautioned him to beware of the consequences of uniting himself to a woman of whom he knew very little. Finding her still opposed to his wishes he at length informed her that further opposi- tion on her part was useless as he had already selected another partner; and that if she could not receive his new wife as a friend, she must receive her as an encum- brance, for he had resolved she should reside with him. Deeply distressed at this information, she stole away from the cabin with her infant and fled to her father. She remained with him for a time, until some Indians, with whom he lived, went up the Mississippi on a winter hunt. When they returned in early spring with their canoes loaded with skins, they encamped near the Falls. After they had left in the morning, Ampato lingered near the spot, and soon launching a light canoe, entered it with her babes. She paddled down the stream chanting her death-song. Her friends saw her only too late, and their attempts to arrest her progress were of no avail. She was heard to sing in a doleful voice of the past happiness she had enjoyed while she was the sole object of her husband's affections. Finally her voice was drowned in the roar of the cataract; 172 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. the rapids carried down her little bark ; it came to the edge of the Falls; was seen for a moment covered with spray but never was a trace of the canoe or its hapless freight seen more. The Indians say that often a voice has been heard to sing a piteous song near the edge of the falling water, and that the burden of the song is always the inconstancy of Ampato's husband. Some assert that her spirit wanders near the spot with her children clinging to her bosom. Such tales and tradi- tions the Indians treasure and relate to the traveler. Minneapolis proper is situated on the west side of the river, while Saint Anthony, which by mutual agree- ment has become united to the first-named city, is on the east side the two forming one city under the name of Minneapolis. It is ten miles from Saint Paul. The city proper is built on broad esplanades overlooking the river and its falls, rapids and pict- uresque bluffs. It is the first place of magnitude reached in descending the river. The streets are laid out at right angles, eighty feet in width, bordered by sidewalks twenty feet wide, with double rows of trees on each side. The founders of western cities have gained wisdom from the mistakes of those of the eastern coast. Notwithstanding the broad expanse of country, which to the early colonists seemed limitless, the cities and towns built on and near the Atlantic seaboard were modeled upon European plans, even to the nar- row streets and compact rows of buildings. Not so in the West. The original plans of our western towns are so wisely designed that no future increase of population, with its attendant demands for dwelling and business houses, can ever transform them into an aggregation of dense, stifling streets and lanes, such as MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS, 175 are too often found in our first-class eastern cities. Health and beauty are two objects which have been steadily kept in view in their foundation. Though their rude beginnings have not always been attractive, the possibilities of beauty are always there and time is sure to develop them. Saint Anthony saw its beginning in 1849, though a single log-cabin had stood upon its site for twelve years before this date. The first dwelling in Minne- apolis proper was erected in the winter of 1849-50, by Colonel J. H. Stevens. Speaking of his early residence and neighbors, the colonel says : " We have often retired at night and opened our eyes in the morn- ing upon the wigwams of either the Sioux, Chippe- was, or Winnebagos, which had gone up while we slept." The name "Minneapolis" is compounded of Indian and Greek ; Minne being the Sioux for water, and polls the Greek for city, thus meaning the water city, or the city of the waters. It is located on what was formerly known as the Military Reserve of Fort Snell- iug, a reservation nine miles square assigned to and surrounding the Fort for purposes of forage. In 1855, Congress granted the right of preemption to the set- tlers, and since that period a rapid growth of the city has taken place. In 1856, the population was only two thousand, while that of Saint Anthony was about three thousand five hundred. A suspension bridge connecting the two cities was built in 1855. It cost over fifty thousand dollars, and was the first suspension bridge ever built in a Territory, and the first to span the Mississippi. A ferry-boat at this point had been established in 1851. 176 DOWN THE GEEAT RIVER. That summer its proprietor realized three hundred dollars. In 1855, the receipts had increased to twelve thousand. In 1880, the population of the united towns numbered nearly fifty thousand, with the certain prospect of doubling, trebling, and even quadrupling that number in a very few years. The University of Minnesota is located here, and there are several other important educational institu- tions. The public schools are in every respect ex- cellent; the Athenaeum Library contains about ten thousand volumes, while the University possesses one of several thousand. There are more than sixty churches of all denominations, and some of the sacred edifices are very handsome. The river is here about six hundred yards in width, and above Saint Anthony Falls rushes through low banks, rising in uneven bluffs from five to twenty-five feet, in foaming, tumultuous rapids, until it reaches the precipice, whence it springs in a single leap down a distance of about sixteen feet. Thence it proceeds in a series of rapids over piles of rocks in its bed for some distance, the great descent being made of eighty-two feet in two miles. Below the Falls the cliffs are bold and picturesque, the character of the scenery varying. The Falls are divided by Cataract Island, from which a dam has been constructed to the eastern shore to furnish water-power for manufacturing purposes, and nearly the whole volume of water now rushes through the western channel. The Falls may be seen with equal advantage from either shore, but the best view is obtained from the centre of the Suspension Bridge which crosses the river above them, and from MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. 177 which the rapids may be seen boiling and rushing immediately beneath. These falls furnish abundant power for manufact- uring purposes, and as early as 1856 large mills were already in operation at Saint Anthony, in which mil- lions of feet of lumber were annually sawn. The logs which fill the Mississippi above the Falls, sometimes even to the point of obstructing navigation, all have their destination at Minneapolis. Here they are con- verted into lumber and laths and sent to distant sections of the country, perhaps in the form of huge rafts again set afloat upon the river. The lumber business of this city is immense, probably exceeding that of any other city in the country. It is equaled only by the flour mills of this rapidly growing western giant. Minneapolis stands at the head of the flour manufacturing of the world. She has no equal in this branch of manufacture either on this continent or in Europe. The wheat raised in such immense quantities in the Northwest is here ground into flour and shipped to every part of the United States; while vast quantities are exported to Europe. The banks of the river are lined with immense flour mills, which furnish employ- ment to thousands of hands. Minneapolis is more a manufacturing than a com- mercial city. Saint Paul monopolizes much of the commerce of the Upper Mississippi. Steamboats can only ascend to Fort Snelling, some miles below the Falls, hence Minneapolis depends largely upon the railroads for transportation. But while Saint Paul measures miles of streets lined with stores and ware- houses, Minneapolis can show an equal number of mills and factories. It is also a city of residences a 178 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. beautiful city. The streets are broad and amply shaded, and the houses are, many of them, very hand- somely built and surrounded by ornamental gardens. Minneapolis is the summer resort of thousands of visitors who come here from all points on the Missis- sippi, as far down as New Orleans, to escape the enerva- tion of a southern summer, and enjoy the pure and healthful climate and delicious scenery of the city and its surroundings. It is especially a resort for invalids, who find its atmosphere bracing and health-giving. It is moreover the centre of a number of delightful sum- mer haunts, all of which are daily growing in popu- larity. Lakes Calhoun, Harriet, and Minnetonka, and the Falls of Minnehaha, attract thousands of visitors, and present not only beauty of scenery, but all the con- veniences and improvements one seeks for at watering- places in the East, and which the traveler from that section is hardly prepared to encounter on the confines of civilization in the Northwest. Boating, bathing, fishing and hunting are among the daily amusements, while commodious hotels and attractive cottages stud the shores of the lakes, and provide the numerous visitors with every comfort. These summer resorts are increasing in number and popularity, and the many lakes which are scattered over the State of Minne- sota, will all of them, sooner or later, make their at- tractions known to the outside world and draw many summer visitors. Much of this transient travel will find its way through Minneapolis, being attracted thither by the beautiful Falls of Saint Anthony ; so that while many of our eastern and northern cities record their largest number of inhabitants during the winter mouths, Minneapolis will, and in fact already MONTICELLO TO MINNEAPOLIS. 179 does, on the contrary, find her population very con- siderably increased during the summer. Minneapolis, including Saint Anthony, is connected with Saint Paul by three lines of railway, while the railroads diverge to every point of the compass, bring- ing an influx of travel and produce and carrying away its merchandise. The city is surrounded by a mag- nificent farming country, which is fast becoming settled by a superior class of immigrants Americans from New England and New York State, Germans from the Fatherland, and Norwegians and Swedes from the land of Thor. The labor of these farmers and the product of their industry contribute to keep its mills running, to increase their number, and to make this city the great bread-giver of the country. People may dispense with many of the artificial needs created by civilization ; they may wrap furs around them in- stead of the products of the loom ; tlfey may dwell in caves, or construct for themselves huts of mud and the boughs of trees, but the whole human race, civil- ized and savage, must have bread, or its equivalent. The Indian raised his maize, finding an animal diet insufficient for his needs; and the great wheat fields of Minnesota furnish something better than maize for the race that has displaced and succeeded him ; and the many mill-stones of Minneapolis, set in motion by nature's engine, the Falls of Saint Anthony, grind and crush the wheat into a shape ready to be trans- formed into bread for the million. The lumbermen of the Upper Mississippi, who form a distinct class, will never cease their labor so long as there is a pine forest left standing; while the swift current of the river furnishes a highway on which, 180 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. without the aid of steam or sails, and with river-drivers for captains and crews, their drives of logs find ready and inexpensive transportation. Transformed from their crude state into a shape to meet the needs of the builder, the river still affords them free transit and numerous markets along its more than two thousand miles of shore. The inhabitants of Minneapolis, like those of this entire section of country, are pushing, enterprising citi- zens from the eastern and north-eastern states, who, re- lieved from the difficulties which beset them in their native home, and with all the resources of the Great West at their command, accomplish wonderful things in very brief periods of time. The 'sprinkling of Germans and Scandinavians prefer for the most part to settle in the country. There is, of course, the usual class of river-men, boatmen, and lumbermen of all kinds, together with the roughs who infest, more or less, all new cities; but the latter are comparatively few. Minneapolis, we venture to prophesy, is destined to become the metropolis of the North-west. She is not only a great manufacturing city, but the most beautiful and attractive in this region. As age tones down the still manifest newness of her twenty-five or thirty years of existence, wears away the rough edges of some of her people, and substitutes handsome edifices for the few remaining rude habitations and business places of her early pioneers, she will become still more beautiful, and in a few years will abundantly repay a pilgrimage to the Upper Mississippi, while the Falls of Saint Anthony will continue to be not the least of her attractions to the tourist in search of the sublime and beautiful. CHAPTER XVI. TEN DAYS AT SAINT PAUL. Fort Smelling White- Bear Lake Mlnne-ha-ha. 'E re-embarked at ten o'clock on the morn- ing of August twenty -seventh, just below the rapids at Minneapolis and, aided by an unusually strong current, soon found ourselves opposite Fort Snelling, which is midway between Minneapolis and Saint Paul. Here we halted to view one of the oldest land- marks of the North-west. Fort Snelling is situated at the confluence of the Minnesota and Mississippi rivers, on the west bank of the latter. The buildings of the garrison are upon a high bluff, two hundred feet above the water level, stretching to the north and west in a gently undulating and fertile prairie interspersed here and there with heavy groves of timber. Around tin's Fort cluster memories of the early struggles of the pioneers of civilization with the savage tribes that have since been sent to other hunting-grounds. It is a promi- nent object in one of the finest landscapes of the Upper Mississippi. Recent alterations, however, have con- siderably changed and modernized the surroundings and deprived it of much of its picturesqueness. The (183) 184. DOWN THE CHEAT RIVER. building erected outside of the walls for the accom- modation of officers, and the demolition of the tower that formerly occupied the extreme point of the bluff, have no doubt given it much less the appearance of a fortification than it previously wore, although making it presumably much pleasanter for those who reside there. The Fort is always open to those who may incline to to look within its walls and view whatever there is of interest to be seen. In these days of peace, however, it does not present a very warlike appearance. Of incidents connected with its history many interesting stories are told which illustrate the dangers, trials and hardships to which the early settlers were subjected, and the character of their savage neighbors. Some of the most efficient officers of our military service have been quartered here, and have received with hospitality the various scientific expeditions that have from time to time passed through the country. On the island at the mouth of the Minnesota, Lieuten- ant Pike encamped and entered into negotiations with the Indians for the site of the present Fort. In a report to the War Department in 1817, Major Long recom- mended the position for a permanent fortification. In 1819, a detachment of the Sixth Infantry, numbering three hundred men, under Colonel Leaven worth, left Detroit with instructions to occupy the Fort, and on the seventeenth of September they established a canton- ment on the south side of the Minnesota near its junction with the Mississippi. Work on Fort Snelling was begun in the summer of 1820, at which time Colonel Snelling was in com- mand. Saint Louis, distant nine hundred miles, was then the nearest town of any importance. The first TEN DAYS AT SAINT PAUL. 135 row of barracks that were put up were constructed of hewn logs, the others of stone. The Fort was built in the form of a diamond in order to harmonize with the ground at the extreme points. Where a tree had stood was located a half-moon battery, to the rear of which were the quarters of the officers, a very neat stone building, the front of cut stone; at the opposite point a tower. The Fort was enclosed by a high stone wall, and is well represented in the accompanying illustration. Among the best remembered incidents in connection with this place is the fact that the first white woman who saw the Falls of Saint Anthony was the wife of Captain George Gooding of the Fifth Infantry. With reference to the Minnesota River, formerly known as the Saint Peter, it is stated to have been first visited by Captain Jonathan Carver, towards the close of the eighteenth century, who published an account of its discovery in 1778. It was again thoroughly explored in 1823, under instructions from the War Department. Its elevation above the Gulf is seven hundred and forty-four feet. The precise latitude of its mouth 44 ,52' 46". The atmosphere of this locality is represented as serene and transparent during the spring and summer seasons, and free from the humidity which is so ob- jectionable a trait of our eastern latitudes. The mean temperature is 45. As to its geological and miner- alogical condition, I refer to Pike, Schoolcraft, Nicollet, and other eminent scientists, who have preceded me in the exploration of this section of the Mississippi. It will be sufficient here to say that the stratification at and below Saint Anthony Falls consists wholly of J86 DOWN THE CHEAT RIVER. formations of sandstone and limestone, horizontally deposited, whose relative ages are chiefly inferable from the evidences of organic life in the shape of fossils which they embrace. The lowest of this series of rock is said to be a white sandstone composed of transparent and loosely cohering grains. Still favored with a brisk current and an encourag- ing breeze at our backs, we glided swiftly down to within two miles of the northern limits of Saint Paul. Here we halted and had luncheon in the shade of a cluster of a large trees standing on the west bank of the river. Soon after re-embarking we were met by a dele- gation of the Minnesota Boat Club, who came up in their boats to exchange greetings and welcome us to their club-rooms, a courtesy always appreciated by voy- agers, and especially by those in possession of craft requiring careful housing. I should be unworthy of civilities if I failed to say that the young men com- posing this club are gentlemen in the fullest sense of the term, and he is indeed most fortunate who holds a key to their delightful quarters on " The Island." On leaving the boat-house we ascended a flight of steps leading up to the bridge which crosses the river at this point. Here we found some thousands of citi- zens congregated, who had apparently come out to wit- ness our rerpption by the boat-dub. A carriage was in waiting, into which we were ushered and driven to the Metropolitan. An appointment having been previously made, I lectured at Sherman Hall at the usual hour; was favored with a very full house, which, considering the torrid condition of the weather at the time, was more TEN DAYS AT SAINT PAUL. than I had expected. The press criticisms evinced a de- cided interest in the " Pioneers of the Mississippi," and were all that I could have desired. At the time of my visit, Saint Paul had about fifty thousand inhabitants, with large commercial interests, which were daily increasing in extent and importance. The city was originally built on the eastern, or left bank of the Mississippi, on a plain, some eighty feet above the river, but it has now extended to the western bank also. On the eastern side its site now embraces four distinct terraces, arranged around the curve of the river in the form of an amphitheatre with a southern exposure. The second and third terraces, upon which the city is principally built, widen out into level semi- circular plains. Father Hennepin was the first white man to reach the site of Saint Paul, having visited the locality in 1680. In 1766, Carver made a treaty with the Dakota Indians in what is now known as Carver's Cave. In 1837, the first United States treaty was entered into with the Sioux, who threw their lands open to settle- ment, and the first claim was entered by Pierre Perent, a Canadian traveler and adventurer, who sold it two years later for forty dollars. His former claim now embraces the principal part of the city. The first building was erected in 1838, and the place continued a mere Indian trading-post for several years thereafter. It was surveyed in 1845, and in 1847 there were but three white families upon the ground. In 1846, Saint Paul had but ten white inhabitants. In L847, it was laid out into village streets, and in 1849 became the site of a Catholic mission. A municipal government was established in 1854, when the town had three 190 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. thousand inhabitants. In 1856, the number had in- creased to ten thousand. In 1880, twenty-four years later, it had been multiplied by five, the census returns giving fifty thousand, with a growth of one hundred per cent, during the previous ten years. In 1849, the business of the place amounted to $131 ,000. In 1854, it had increased to $6,000,000, with $700,000 of capi- tal invested. The original town was regularly laid out, but the additions are irregular. The streets are well graded and generally paved. The third terrace is underlaid by a stratum of limestone from twelve to twenty feet thick, and of this material many of the buildings are constructed. The city has several excellent hotels, and many churches belonging to the various denominations of Christians. Five bridges cross the river; lines of horse-cars connect all parts of the city, and a system of sewerage drains it of all impurities. The State Capitol in process of erection when I saw it occu- pies one entire square, on an elevation overlooking the city and river. The Opera House, on Wabasha Street, seating about twelve hundred persons, is a large and handsome building. The Academy of Sciences contains about one hundred and thirty thousand speci- mens in natural history. The Historical Society and Library Association have each fine public libraries. The public and private schools of Saint Paul are all of the first order of excellence, and there are several female seminaries of a high grade. A Protestant and a Catholic Orphan Asylum and three hospitals represent the public charitable institutions. Saint Paul is nominally at the head of navigation of the Mississippi, the further progress of steamboats up TEN DA YS AT 8AINT PA UL. 191 the river being checked by the rapids below the Falls of Saint Anthony. The river here is open from two hundred to two hundred and forty days in the year, and several steamboats arrive and depart daily. It is a thorough business city, its chief thoroughfares being lined with large and well-built stores and warehouses; the movements of the people on the streets indicating the hurry and preoccupation of pressing business pur- suits. The casual visitor is reminded of Chicago more than of any other city of the West. At its back lie the grain and lumber-producing regions of Minnesota and Wisconsin, which are yearly filling up with an intelli- gent and industrious people. Their produce finds an outlet at this port, and here they look for a great por- tion of their supplies. The retail trade of Saint Paul is very large, and it is also in great part the wholesale centre of a large circle of smaller towns. Its double line of river bank affords ample wharfage. It is surrounded by a network of railways, connecting it with the large and growing city of Minneapolis, and with every town of importance in Minnesota and adjoining states. These secure permanence to its prosperity, since railroads, even more thaii rivers, make flourishing cities in the present day. There are many points of interest around the city. On the eastern bank of the river, near the shore, is the celebrated Carver's Cave, a romantic opening or aper- ture in Dayton Bluff, in the interior of which the treaty before referred to was concluded. There is a small lake in this cave which may be crossed by a boat. Two miles from Saint Paul is Fountain Cave, deriving its name from a stream which flows through it and which probably was the originating cause of the 11 192 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. cave. It contains several chambers, some of ample dimensions, and, it is said, that at one thousand feet from the opening in the rock no termination has yet been discovered. The rock is of pure white, soft sand- stone, and the entrance to the cave is about fifteen feet in width. About three hundred feet in the interior from its mouth, a cascade some fifteen feet in height falls into the stream. This cave is a favorite resort in the summer, and presents many features of interest to the geologist. The Falls of Minnehaha, made famous by Long- fellow in his immortal "Song of Hiawatha," are reached by a pleasant drive past Fort Snelling. The name of these Falls signifies " Laughing Water." In the words of Longfellow's beautiful description of the journey of his hero to the land of the Dakotas, - Till he heard the cataract's laughter, Heard the Falls of Minnehaha, Calling to him through the silence," we have a definition of this poetical name. The stream, which is a confluent of the Great River, enters a deep ravine by a downright plunge of fifty feet, bursting into foam as it descends, and sending up a cloud of spray from its base. It falls into a large basin and thence proceeds quietly forward to its junction with the Mississippi. The sheet of water is projected over a shelf of rock of a semicircular form, and be- neath this shelf pedestrians may pass dryshod. White Bear Lake, twelve miles distant from Saint Paul, and about an equal distance from Minneapolis, is becoming a popular pleasure resort. Located at the junction of the Saint Paul and Duluth and the FALLS OF MIXXE-IIA-IIA. TEN DAYS AT SAINT PAUL. Minneapolis and Saint Louis railways, it is about four miles in length ; and nearly midway between its eastern and western banks is a long, forest-covered islet. The water of the lake is transparently pure and of the color of the bright blue sky overhead. The largest fleet of sailing yachts to be found on any west- ern lake, is seen floating here, many of them costly and of elegant construction. Large hotels have been erected on the western and southern banks for the accommodation of visitors, while picturesque villas dot its western shore, owned by wealthy business men of Saint Paul and Minneapolis, who send their families here to reside during the summer, and join them each evening after the close of business. White Bear is che oldest summer resort in the State. Camping-out is here reduced to a science, and we find encampment* large enough to be called villages, the tents being as commodious and comfortably furnished as the parlors and bedrooms at home. White Bear is a popular place for pic-nics for the surrounding cities, towns, villages and farms. In the country around are nu- merous smaller lakes, which are sought for fishing and duck hunting. Bald Eagle Lake lies a mile beyond White Bear. It is a lovely sheet of water, but not so large as the latter. It has high banks and is full of fish of sev- eral varieties. A few pretty cottages have been built here, and occupied as summer residences. A mineral spring was discovered some years since and a pavilion erected over it by the late Dr. Post, of Saint Paul, who also built a summer residence near by. The City Park is located on the shores of Lake Como, two miles from the centre of Saint Paul. 19G DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Saint Paul is associated, like Saint Louis, with the names of early explorers and navigators of the Missis- sippi, although its settlement is comparatively recent. Its name was derived from that of a log-chapel dedi- cated to the Apostle Paul in 1841, by the Jesuit missionaries. Unlike Saint Louis, or New Orleans, it has no antiquated streets and perpetuates no French or Spanish names. It is intensely American and intensely nineteenth century. The population is com- posed principally of immigrants or their descendants, from the northern and especially the New England States, while its foreign element is largely German and Scandinavian, which, however, is gradually be- coming Americanized. The children of these foreign citizens will be Americans not only in fact, but in feeling and interests. The rapid growth of our country is in nothing more palpably demonstrated than by the founding and development of her cities. Yesterday there was a wilderness, uninhabited and almost unexplored. To- day, there is a thriving town cherishing great ex- pectations, which in most instances are more than realized on the morrow. Vast territories, inhabited by only a few bands of Indians, have in a single genera- tion been converted into populous states; desert wastes have developed, under the intelligent labor of men, a wonderful degree of fertility ; and the progress of civilization in its western march can be arrested only by the waves of the Pacific, which beat upon the rock-- bound coast of California, Oregon and Washington. CHAPTER XVII. SAINT PAUL, TO LA CROSSE. FOSTER HOUSE, Hastings, Minnesota, September 5, 1881. 'ITH the feeling that another week might have been profitably spent in and around Saint Pa"!* we shook hands with many newly-made friends and again stepped into our canoes in front of the Boat-club House. A moment later and we were once more wending our way upon the broad bosom of the Father of Waters, floating and paddling towards the Gulf of Mexico. Having abandoned my birch canoe, Discovery, at Minneapolis, I took for personal use the Alice, which had hitherto been in charge of my brother, who -had now retired from the expedition altogether and was acting in the capacity of advance agent in connection with my lecture appointments. Paine was assigned to the Itasca. Horace Greeley Scott, of Hudson, Wis- consin, who had been engaged at Saint Paul as voy- ageur, acted as " crew " of the Alice. Our journey from Saint Paul to Hastings was un- eventful, except as to the weather, which was decid- -(197) 198 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. edly uncomfortable. A drizzling rain set in at an early hour in the morning, which increased in strength until eleven o'clock, when the water came down in torrents, drenching our clothing and making naviga- tion anything but agreeable. Nothing but an ap- pointment to lecture in the evening could have kept me in my canoe under such circumstances. At three o'clock in the afternoon we passed what is termed the narrowest place in the Mississippi below the Falls of Saint Anthony. The river at this point is clear of islands and not more than one hundred yards wide. Pike states that his men rowed across in forty strokes of the oar; another traveler avers that he crossed in 1857, from a dead start, in sixteen strokes. While passing through this contraction of the river it was our good or ill fortune to meet the Gem City, the favorite steamer plying between Saint Paul and Saint Louis. Our meeting with this boat was the first in- stance in which we had encountered any craft of respectable dimensions in the descent of the Missis- sippi, and we had learned from actual experience that it was advisable to exercise some caution when ven- turing our canoes near the wake of such vessels as the one in question, if we desired to put our voyage on a practical basis. It is true we had taken some precau- tions; had paddled in towards the western bank from the middle of the stream, where we felt quite secure from the swell which would naturally follow the movement of so large a body in deep water. The waves came as we anticipated, but not so mildly as we had predicted ; on the contrary, the first that reached us came with a snap and a swash, lifting us high and dry upon the beach at least five feet from the water's SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 199 edge,, precipitating on the beach the contents of the canoes, including their "gallant crews." Some con- solation was found, however, in the reflection that any position on shore was preferable to one at the bottom of the river. The "commodore" was compelled to bear the en- tire responsibility of this "toss up," as the captain of the Itasca had suggested paddling against the waves as a proper precaution against a capsize. It will be sufficient to add that this advice was not unheeded in similar cases thereafter. With canoes half-full of water and streams of the same element running from our clothes, we disem- barked at five o'clock at the ferry-landing in front of Hastings, where we were met and escorted to the Foster House by Irving Todd of the Gazette, Rev. At B. Chapin, Dr. Reuben Freeman, J. B. Lambert and others. Acting upon the advice of Mr. Lambert, who had been engaged to introduce me, my lecture appoint- ment at this place was indefinitely postponed in con- sequence of the storm which raged throughout the night The evening was spent most agreeably in the par- lors of the Foster House, where a number of the repre- sentative men of the city, including several clergymen, assembled to listen to whatever I felt inclined to tell them of our discovery and adventures at the head- waters of the Mississippi. I was not favorably im- pressed with the business enterprise of Hastings, but will always have a pleasant recollection of the hospi- tality of its people. The city has a wheat and lum- ber market, with four-flour mills, and three saw- mills, and a population of about four thousand. 200 DOWN THE GREAT RIVEE. SAINT JAMES HOTEL, Red Wing, Minnesota, September Sixth. Eight o'clock found us in our canoes at Hastings. The weather indications of the morning were prophetic of a pleasant trip to Red Wing ; but, alas ! appearances were deceitful, as the storm, which had evidently been slumbering for a few hours, broke out afresh at ten o'clock and kept us company throughout the entire day. We attempted a landing at several points above the city, but rain, high winds and a swift current prevented. The mouth of the Saint Croix River was reached at ten o'clock. This stream, which enters the Missis- sippi three miles below Hastings, forms the boundary between Minnesota and Wisconsin. For a consider- able distance below the Saint Croix the water of the Mississippi, where shoal, is of a reddish appearance, but very black in deep water. The red is occasioned by the sand seen at the bottom, which is of that color; the dark is invariably common to deep water when moderately limpid. Thoroughly drenched a second time since leaving Saint Paul, it was with, an exceedingly keen apprecia- tion that we received a hearty welcome at the boat- house-landing at this place. Our canoes out of the water and securely housed, we hastened up to the Saint James, where we were quickly shown our rooms and glad enough to get into them, and into bed, too, as my trunk containing changes, which should have preceded us, had not arrived from Hastings. SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 201 A conference with the lecture committee led to the same conclusion we had arrived at in Hastings, that with the storm howling without, and the lecturer hors de combat, it were better to let the Pioneers of the Mississippi " Sleep the sleep that knows not breaking ; :> hence, the engagement for Red Wing was declared cancelled. Like several other cities in this State, Red Wing has a history, and exemplifies how much an intelligent and industrious people can accomplish in a very short time. The standard of civilization was originally planted here by two Swiss missionaries, Denton and Garin, who arrived, accompanied by their wives, in 1838. The savage Dakotas at this date occupied the territory, and these brave and self-denying missionaries labored among them until the health of Denton failed in 1846, when the American Board of Missions ap- pointed Rev. Messrs. J. W. Hancock and John Aiton, of Vermont, to succeed them. Two mission-houses were built, one of which remains to this day. Two white families and about three hundred Indians were at that time thirty-six years ago the sole occupants of what is now the enterprising little city of Red Wing. In June, 1852, the Indians entered into a treaty with the Government, which authorized the country to be occupied by white settlers, but the close of the same year saw only about forty white people in the village. On the following Christmas Day the entire white community dined at the residence of William Freeborn, one of the first settlers. The town now 02 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. commenced to grow and has developed very consider- ably up to the present time, the population at this date being about ten thousand. Red Wing has the reputa- tion of being one of the largest primary wheat markets in the country, having handled grain to the amount of nearly three million bushels. Some of its manu- factures also are acquiring a wide reputation. The clay deposits in the neighborhood are said to be among the finest and richest in America; and it is in contem- plation to commence the manufacture of glass, as a sand of very superior quality abounds here. Being only six miles from Lake Pepin, one of the finest bodies of water in the West, surrounded by some of the most magnificent scenery to be found anywhere on the continent, Red Wing will probably in a short time become a summer resort ; and at no distant day, with its abundance of timber, transportation facilities, and productive farming country, may possibly become one of the leading cities of Minnesota. Lumber and all its products are in a flourishing condition ; laths, shingles, sashes, doors and blinds, hubs, spokes, felloes and every variety of bent-work being manufactured extensively. Boots and shoes, furniture, stoneware, boilers and wagons, have also found a solid footing. The lime and stone business has developed during the past few years into an important industry. Common and pressed brick are also extensively made here, and have acquired an excellent reputation throughout the Northwest. Steam-engines and heavy and light cast- ings are manufactured. The city has an excellent fire department and water-works; and its public schools are said to rank among the best in the State. Red Wing is distant from Saint Paul sixty-five miles. SAINT PA UL TO LA CROSSE. 203 MERCHANT'S HOTEL, Lake City, Minnesota, September Seventh. The clouds lifted at sunrise, and in anticipation of a pleasant trip through Lake Pepin we took a hurried stroll through the leading streets of Red Wing imme- diately after breakfast, and an hour later were in our canoes on our way down the river. A gentle swell followed by a very perceptible buoy- ancy of the canoes gave intimation that we were ap- proaching a body of water of no mean pretensions. For several days we had been cautioned to " beware of Lake Pepin," and when at last we found ourselves gliding smoothly over its placid bosom, we felt that its turbulent propensities had been greatly exaggerated. It took but a few moments however to reverse the scene and convince us that the Fates were not alto- gether favorable. A strong southerly wind, again ac- companied by rain, made our journey through Lake Pepin memorable, if not agreeable. For over ten hours the elements held possession and the waves ran so high that Paine, who led the way in the Itasca, was frequently out of sight in the troughs, though not more than forty yards in advance of the Alice. I contemplated a halt at one time, but the rugged and precipitous character of the bluffs, which came down to the water's edge, would have made a landing extremely difficult, if not dangerous; and besides, to be perfectly frank, we were engaged upon a voyage from Source to Sea, and I, for one, did not feel like taking the re- sponsibility of showing the " white feather." Having DO WN THE GREAT RIVER. an engagement to lecture at Lake City, I was com- pelled to stick to the canoes, and meet the appointment in the usual way, or disembark and go down by rail, thus acknowledging, after a three months' cruise on the Mississippi, that our mode of locomotion was imprac- ticable. We, therefore, resolved to remain in the canoes if every member of the party went to the bot- tom of the lake. My new voyageur, Scott, acquitted himself with great credit on this occasion, considering the fact that he had never been in a canoe before joining us at Saint Paul. His complete self-possession and steady nerve had ranch to do with carrying me safely through one of the most trying situations I had been called upon to master since leaving Lake Winnibegoshish. We struck the beach at Frontenac between twelve and one o'clock, heartily glad to set our feet again on solid earth, and quite willing to let old Pepin lash his sides for an hour at least to his heart's content. Frontenac is a small hamlet, of perhaps two hun- dred souls, standing on the western shore of the lake, about ten miles below Red Wing. It is a most ro- mantic spot in appearance, and will, I venture to pre- dict, at no distant day become a most delightful sum- mer resort. Considerable attention has already been drawn to it in this particular, and we especially noted good hotel accommodations and the presence on its white-sand beach of many yachts, skiffs and canoes. We were met here by Mr. A. W. Ditmars, of Lake City, who came up to confer with me concerning my lecture appointment at this place. After dining with us at the hotel, he suggested that I should have the pleasure of meeting General Israel Garrard. We SAIJVT PA UL TO LA CROSSE. 07 walked up to the general's residence on the bluff, where I was introduced and spent an hour most agree- ably. General Garrard is a gentleman of leisure and culture, and possesses a fund of information concern- ing the legendary history of Lake Pepin which is ot absorbing interest to those who desire to preserve records of aboriginal times. It was hoped, when we disembarked, that the lake would calm before we returned to our canoes, but in this we were destined to disappointment, for on reach- ing the beach we found the wind still piling up the waves to a threatening height and making the outlook for our little flotilla anything but inviting. General Garrard and Mr. Ditmars said, " if you value your lives, don't launch those canoes on Lake Pepin to-day." Many others on the shore echoed the same sentiment. Still determined, however, to go down to Lake City in our staunch little crafts, Paine stepped promptly into the Itasca, while Scott and myself pulled out in the Alice. Running out into the lake we soon rounded the sand- bar which lies directly in front of Frontenac and headed down stream. We hugged the western bank as closely as possible, seeking the protection of the friendly bluffs against the violent wind, which now came sweeping across the lake from a south-westerly quarter. Three miles below Frontenac we descried the cele- brated Maiden Rock, which rises to a height of nearly five hundred feet on the eastern shore. The upper two hundred feet are formed by a perpendicular bluff, and the lower three hundred constitute a very abrupt and precipitous slope which extends from the base of the bluff to the edge of the water. This forms a point, 208 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. projecting into the lake and bounded by two small basins, each of which is the estuary of a brook. The wildness of the scenery is such that even the voyager who has gazed with delight upon the majestic bluffs of the Mississippi is forcibly impressed with the grandeur of this spot. There was much in it that we had not met with at any other point of the far-stretch- ing Valley of the Mississippi, a high-projecting point, a precipitous crag resting upon a steep bank whose base is washed by a wide expanse of water, which con- trasts strikingly with the savage outlines of the land- scape. But Maiden Rock receives additional interest from the melancholy tale which is connected with its history and which casts a deep gloom over its brightest feature. There was a time, so the legend runs, when this now desolate spot was the scene of a most tragic event. In the Indian village of Keoxa, in the tribe of Wa- pasha, there lived a young Indian maiden, whose name was Winona, which signifies the " first-born." She had formed an attachment for a young hunter of the tribe, who returned her affection. They had fre- quently met and agreed to become united in marriage, but on applying to her parents, the young hunter was rejected, and informed that a warrior of distinction had sued for their daughter and their consent had been given. The warrior was a favorite with the tribe, and had acquired great popularity from his services to the village against the Chippevvas. Winona, however, remained faithful to her lover, notwithstanding his rival's efforts to supplant him and the countenance he received from her parents and brothers. To them she replied that she had made choice of a man who, being SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 09 a hunter, would remain with her and secure her sistence and comfort; while the warrior would be fre- quently absent, intent upon martial exploits. Winona's reasoning and earnest entreaties, however, were in vain, and her parents at length drove away her lover, and commenced harsh measures in order to compel her to marry the warrior. She begged them to allow her to live a single life, but to all her entreaties they turned a deaf ear. Winona had hitherto enjoyed a great share in the affections of her family, and had been indulged more than is usual with females among Indians. Her affectionate disposition had made her a favorite with her brothers, and they endeavored to influence their parents to use persuasive means to accomplish their wishes, in preference to compelling her to the union against her inclination. To remove some of her ob- jections to the warrior, they undertook, themselves, to provide for her future maintenance, and accordingly presented to her suitor many articles that an Indian might desire to possess, as a propitiatory offering in behalf of their sister. About this time a party was formed in the village to ascend the river to Lake Pepin, in order to procure a supply of the blue clay which is found upon its banks at a certain spot, and which was used by the Indians to make paint. Wiuona and some of her friends were of the party, and it was on this day that her brothers had offered their presents to the warrior. Thus encouraged, he again addressed the young girl, but with the same ill success. She refused to be united to him, and would remain single all her life. Her parents again remonstrated in strong language, and threatened to compel her to obedience. "Winona, with tears, replied : " You will drive me to de- 210 DOWN THE CHEAT RIVER. spair; I have said I love him not; I cannot live with him; I wish to remain a maiden. You say you love me, that you are my father, my mother, my brothers, my relations ; yet you have cruelly parted me from the only man with whom I wish to be united; you have compelled him to leave the village; alone he now wan- ders through the forest, with no one to assist him, none to spread his blanket, none to build his lodge, none to wait on him ; yet he was the man of my choice. Is this your love for me? But even this is not enough : you would have me rejoice in his absence; you wish me to unite with another man, one whom I do not and cannot love, and with whom I never can be happy. Jf this is your love for me, I will say no more; but soon you will have no daughter nor sister to torment with your false love." She then withdrew; but her parents, still heedless of her words, decided that Winona should be united with the warrior that very day. While they and their friends were engaged in preparations for the festival, Winona wound her way slowly to the top of the high rock since named Maiden Rock. On reaching the summit she called loudly to her friends below, and upbraided them for their cruelty to herself and her lover. "You were not satisfied," she exclaimed, " with refusing my union with the man I had chosen, but you tried to make me faithless to him, and when you found me resolved upon remaining a maiden, you threatened to compel me to marry another. You knew me not. You will see how I will defeat your designs." She then com- menced to sing her dirge; the light wind wafted the words of her doleful song to her family and friends; they rushed, some of them, to the top of the rock to SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 211 stop her; others to the foot to receive her in their arms, while all, with tears, entreated her to desist from her fatal purpose; her father promising that no com- pulsion should again be resorted to. But Winona's resolution was taken, and, concluding her song, she at once leaped from the precipice, and fell a lifeless corpse at the feet of her parents and brothers. This legend has given the rock its name. The fate of this young maiden has many parallels among the Indians, who are not all proof against the finest feel- ings of our nature, whatever may be thought by some to the contrary. Lake Pepin was discovered by Father Hennepin in April, 1680, who says of it: "About thirty Leagues above Black River we found the Lake of Tears, which we named so because the Savages who took us, as it will be hereafter related, consulted in this Place what they should do with their Prisoners ; and those who were for rnurthering us cried all the Night upon us, to oblige by their Tears their Companions to consent to our Death. This Lake is formed by the Meschasipi, and may be seven Leagues long and five broad. Its Waters are almost standing, the Stream being hardly perceptible in the Middle." The name which the lake now bears is evidently of French origin, but I have not been able to ascertain who applied it, or what cir- cumstances suggested its adoption. Progress through the lake was painfully slow, and although we came in sight of this place at four o'clock, and were within two miles of its landing at five, the wind and waves beat so persistently against our bows that we did not reach port until after sunset. Despite the rain, however, which was still falling, a large con- 12 212 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. course of citizens had gathered on the beach to see us disembark and to welcome us to Lake City. A brass band was in attendance and discoursed a few lively airs, making us quite forget for a few moments that our clothing was thoroughly drenched from head to foot. Lake City belongs to that class of magic cities of the West which, under favorable circumstances, leap into existence and develop so rapidly as to far exceed the brightest anticipations of their founders. Beautifully located on the western shore of Pepin, enjoying excel- lent rail and water communications with all points up and down the river, it is destined to sustain the prominence it has gained on the Upper Mississippi. Jortu-mntl) NATIONAL HOTEL, Minneiska, Minnesota, September Eighth. Weather in the morning fair and calm. We re- sumed our journey through the lake at eight o'clock, and glided along with great ease until within three miles of its southern extremity, when a violent wind- storm from the northward bore down upon us, and for a time kept us hard at work with our paddles to prevent the swamping of the canoes. Our observations on Lake Pepin led us to conclude that the slighest breath of wind will produce a heavy swell, and from this circumstance it is the custom of voyagers on the river to pass through the lake, if possible, at night ; experience having taught them that it is generally calmer then than during the day. It is twenty-one miles long, and its breadth, which varies from one to SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 215 three miles, may be averaged at about two and a half. Towards its outlet the valley widens considerably, owing to the entrance of the Chippewa River. This river is five hundred yards wide at its mouth^ and is navigable at all seasons of the year for fifty miles, and in time of freshets boats can proceed much further up. The general direction of the lake is from west-uorth- west to east-south-east. The scenery along its shores contrasts strongly with that of the river. Instead of the rapid current of the Mississippi, winding around numberless islands, some of which display well wooded surfaces, while others are mere sand-bars, the lake, when calm, presents a smooth and sluggish expanse of water, unrelieved by a single island ; nothing limits the view but the towering bluffs which enclose it; these extend in a more regular manner, and with a more uniform elevation than those along the river. We halted for a few moments at Wabasha, a small town on the right bank, twelve miles below Lake City, having a population of between two and three thousand. After a stroll through its leading streets we returned to the landing and re-embarked. Alma, Wisconsin, on the left bank, nine miles below Wabasha, was reached in season for dinner. Although we began the descent of the Mississippi on the twenty- second of July and had floated and paddled down up- wards of twelve hundred miles of its course, we had not until now eaten a meal outside of Minnesota. This State may well be proud of her relation to the Mighty River, for she has more than one-third of its entire length within her borders. Minneiska, being in a bend of the river, was seen 216 DOWN THE GREAT JtlVEX. directly in our front, just as the sun was sinking be- hind the horizon. The river, the town, the towering bluffs, the gorgeous sky, and the glimmering rays of the sun, as it gradually disappeared from view, pre- sented a scene worthy the painter's most skilful art and one not readily effaced from the memory of the observer. Aside from its poetic name and natural attractions, very little can be said of Minneiska. It might be inferred, from its present appearance as seen from the river, that a cyclone had struck it many years ago and that its days of prosperity were long since numbered. A stroll through the streets after supper developed nothing to lead us to a more favorable im- pression. Itfttetl) JDag. PRIVATE EESIDENCE, Winona, Minnesota, September Ninth. Our journey from Minneiska to Winona was heartily enjoyed ; the most enchanting scenery, and not a breath of wind nor a ripple to disturb the even tenor of our way. Halted for luncheon at a village on the east bank delighting in the name of Fountain City. When within two miles of Winona we were met by several canoes and skiffs, bear ing representatives of the local press and others who seemed much interested in our voyage and its objects. Our arrival at this place was made exceedingly pleasant by the numerous and flattering courtesies of the citizens. We noted at the landing the national colors, while the greetings were most cordial. A carriage was waiting to convey us to a private residence where we were entertained as guests during our stay in Winona. Lectured in the evening SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 217 in the session-room of the Normal School in accordance with a previous appointment. Was introduced by Captain O. B. Gould, a prominent attorney and one of the trustees of the school. The location and surroundings of this city, distant ninety-six miles south-east of Saint Paul by rail, are extremely picturesque. Standing on a plateau nine miles long by three broad, on the west bank of the river, it is environed by lofty bluffs, the surfaces of which, in some cases from summit to base, appear of a velvety smoothness that has more the semblance of art than of nature. The city is laid out with the utmost regularity, the streets wide and mostly at right angles ; and the business blocks, compactly built of brick and stone, are generally of a very substantial character. Many of the private residences are elegantly designed, and show indications of wealth. The whole appear- ance of the place betokens business activity and pros- perity. The inhabitants number at present about fif- teen thousand, and it is thus the third city in population in the State, and claims to be the third in commercial importance. It is the river outlet for a large portion of Minnesota and Wisconsin. The Chicago, Milwau- kee and Saint Paul ; the Green Bay, Winona and Saint Paul, and other branch-lines of railway, have their stations and termini here. Winona is the fourth pri- mary grain market in the United States. Fifteen churches, of all denominations, attest the moral and religious status of the citizens. Here, also, are a good public library, the first State normal school, a high school, four banks, and one daily and four weekly newspapers. The city is one of the most important lumber-distributing points on the Upper Mississippi. 218 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Two grain elevators, seven flour-mills, three large saw-mills, six carriage and wagon manufactories, and several other manufacturing establishments show the extent to which the capital and industry of "Winona have been developed in a few years by its enterprising inhabitants. MELCHIOR HOUSE, Trempealeau, Wisconsin, September Tenth. There was so much of interest to be seen in and around Winona, that we did not re-embark until three o'clock in the afternoon. On stepping into our canoes it was remarked that the outlook was not so favorable as on the morning of the previous day, when we em- barked at Minneiska. A slight breeze from a south- erly quarter paid its respects as we pulled out from the shore. A few moments later ugly-looking clouds were observed, portending something of an unusual char- acter. Still we kept on, unmindful of the threatening aspect of the sky, until we reached an expansion of the river about three miles below Winona, when, sud- denly, the wind shifted to the westward and swept across the stream with great violence. In less than five minutes we found ourselves at the mercy of a tur- bulent sea the surface covered with white caps, and our frail barks dashing hither and thither, quite be- yond the control of the paddles ; now riding on the topmost wave, and again sinking in the troughs which were seen on every hand. Scott having retired from the expedition at Winona, my brother took his place as pilot and was now with me in the Alice. Naturally possessed of an excitable SAINT PAUL TO LA CROSSE. 219 temperament and being only an amateur canoeist, like myself, his assistance was of little avail on this occa- sion. The canoes were soon filled with water and nothing but the light and buoyant material of which they were constructed prevented their sinking. Like Richard III., we would have been glad to exchange our kingdom not for a horse but for the air-tight compartments of our canoes which had been cast aside at Aitkin as an unnecessary encumbrance. In an attempt to reach the western bank we were caught by wind and wave and driven to the opposite or lee shore, where we were beset with snags, sawyers and driftwood, thus making a landing impracticable. A few moments later the wind subsided, the water again became calm, and our first and only squall on the Mississippi was numbered among the things of the past. , We disembarked at Trempealeau a little before sun- set, and were pleasantly domiciled at the Melchior House. After tea we were most agreeably entertained in the parlors of the hotel by the family and friends of our hostess. George and Paine were especially zealous in their attentions to the young ladies and, notwith- standing the dilapidated appearance of Trempealeau, voted it among the most delightful places on the Upper Mississippi. CHAPTER XVIII. THEEE DAYS AT LACROSSE. Trip from Trempealeau La Crosse and Surroundings. KEAKFAST over at Trempealeau, we took a hurried walk through its rickety streets and glanced at the relics of its former prosperity. Paine suggested that it would make an appropriate finis to a volume of which Minneiska might fittingly form the preface. Resumed our journey at ten o'clock after ex- changing adieux with the Melchiors, who hajl come down to the landing to witness the launch of our canoes and to leave with us their best wishes for a safe and pleasant voyage to the Gulf. Nothing could be more delightful than our trip from Trempealeau to La Crosse. A clear sky, a genial atmosphere, and a strong current, made navigation a pleasure rather than a burden, as had been the case on many preceding days. Everything now appeared different. Even the face of nature seemed changed. In place of the majestic bluffs, .the banks here sloped gradually down to the water's edge, covered with va- rious trees enriched by the variegated hues of autumn. (220) THREE DAYS AT LA CROSSE. 221 So pleasantly had the time passed that it was with something of surprise we discerned at one o'clock the church spires of La Crosse. Half an hour later our canoes touched the boat-house landing and we were soon registered and assigned to rooms at the Commer- cial Hotel. Among the first to greet us at the "Commercial " was Mr. Pearce Giles, of Philadelphia, an old acquaintance and friend, who had assisted in the organization of my expedition at Saint Paul, before starting for the head waters of the Mississippi, and who was now sojourning for a few days at La Crosse. The name of this ambitious young city is said to be derived from the invigorating game of "Lu Crosse," the favorite sport of the Indians on the level prairie upon which the city now stands. To indulge in their athletic matches, it is recorded that they assembled here in large numbers annually the plain being con- veniently adapted for the purpose and the first white settler, Nathan Myrick, became so enthusiastic an ad- mirer of the exciting game, that he named the spot on which his solitary cabin was built, La Crosse, and hence the name of the Indian sport is perpetuated in that of the city. La Crosse claims, and with good grace, to be the second city in commercial and manufacturing impor- tance in the State of Wisconsin Milwaukee, of course, ranking first. The prairie land on which it is built is seven miles in length by two and a half in breadth, on the east bank of the Mississippi River. The distance below Saint Paul is one hundred and ninety -seven miles. By railway, La Crosse is only one hundred and twenty- nine miles from the latter city, and one hundred and 222 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. ninety-six from Milwaukee. The Black and La Crosse rivers fall into the Mississippi at this point, the former a most important lumbering stream. The growth and development of La Crosse, in a very few years, are in truth no less amazing than creditable to its enterprising pioneers and citizens. The first settler, Myrick, landed here in November, 1841, less than fifty years ago, with a boat-load of goods and notions from Prairie du Chien, and his laudable enterprise was to trade the contents of his boat with the red men for their furs. In the course of ten years Myrick's In- dian trading-post had invited other settlers to it, and it became an incorporated town. In five years more, 1856, the town had attained sufficient size and impor- tance to be made a city. To-day it has a population of over twenty thousand of as live, go-ahead citizens as are to be found in the valley of the Great River. The geographical location of this city is doubtless one of the secrets of its rapid progress and present flourishing con- dition. The products of one of the finest agricultural states in the Union, together with the vast supplies coming in from Minnesota and Northern Iowa, give to La Crosse immense advantages, occupying as it does, a commanding position on the river for attracting com- mercial relations by virtue of its great facilities of transportation. Besides numerous lines of railway centring here, the city has access to that grand high- way, the Mississippi and its tributaries, embracing over sixteen thousand miles of navigable rivers. A stretch of over two thousand miles of water-way from Saint Anthony's Falls to the Gulf of Mexico, affords the cheapest kind of transportation, of the benefits of which La Crosse avails itself to a very large extent, THREE DAYS AT LA CROSSE. 223 and hence, mainly, its growth in population and in wealth. The commerce and manufactures of a city depend largely upon the resources of the State in which it is situated. Wisconsin is one of the richest agricultural states in America. It is larger than the states of New York, Connecticut and Rhode Island combined, and in fertility of soil surpasses them. A considerable percentage of the wheat crop of the United States is grown in this province. Its immense cornfields, com- prising several million acres, are another source of wealth. The hay-producing area is about twice as large as the State of Iowa, and timber of the most valuable manufacturing descriptions is plentiful in the northern part of the State. Twenty million pounds of butter and fifteen million pounds of cheese are annually manufactured in Wisconsin, much of which is shipped to eastern markets and from them reshipped to the markets of the civilized world. The soil and climate of this State are especially adapted to the growth of potatoes, one of the most profitable crops raised in the country. The growth of flax is another leading in- dustry of the State of Wisconsin, the yield being over twenty million pounds a year. Thus, in agricultural resources the "Badger" State possesses every advan- tage necessary for developing great commercial and manufacturing cities, and the favorable position of La Crosse eminently fits it for reaping the full bene- fit of the conditions provided by generous Nature. La Crosse is a port of entry and ranks third on the Mississippi River, being exceeded in the number of vessels enrolled only by New Orleans and Saint Louis. The wholesale trade of La Crosse is in a 224 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. flourishing condition and includes large receipts and shipments of grain and immense supplies of lumber. Hardware, boots and shoes, clothing, furniture and other necessaries of life are now also staples of the wholesale trade. In fact, from all we could learn from inquiry on the spot, the commerce of La Crosse is rapidly growing under the skilful management of its enterprising merchants, its annual transactions reach- ing about five million dollars. The retail trade is in a no less satisfactory condition, and the growth of this city in population and wealth is a subject of remark by all occasional visitors. The manufactures of La Crosse are pointed to with justifiable pride by its citizens and promise great things in the near future. The wool manufactories are thirteen in number and of an extensive character. Iron manufactories, foundries and machine-shops are numerous, and the out-put of this class of industries is of the most varied description. Engines and boilers of every size are built here, and architectural iron prod- ucts and stoves of all kinds are produced in great abundance, thus illustrating the genius, skill and enterprise embarked in the iron business in this busy city. The forests of Michigan, Wisconsin and Minne- sota are practically inexhaustible, and it is claimed that no city in the Northwest is more advantageously situated in regard to lumber resources than La Crosse. Its position is such as to enable it to draw upon any source of supply through the far-reaching Mississippi River and its tributaries. The mills of La Crosse have a combined capacity of two hundred million feet, and consume, distribute and export not less than five hundred million feet of lumber annually. The aggre- THREE DA YS AT LA CROSSE. 225 gate wealth contributed to the city by lumber alone amounts to many millions of dollars per year. The rapid development of the Northwest has largely increased the growth and importance of La Crosse within the past few years, and has assured its future as a commercial and manufacturing centre. It has become the base of supply for an extensive range of territory in the matter of lumber, and in everything that contributes to the growth of a city is annually making gains. It will afford some idea of the dimen- sions of the city to say that it has about thirty miles of graded streets^ and forty-five miles of sidewalks. The fire department and the police force rank at a high standard of efficiency. Electric light for the streets and stores is furnished by the Brush Electric Light Company, which has erected four towers, each one hundred and fifty feet high, and nine masts, and the streets at night are consequently well illuminated. The public schools are eleven in number in addition to the High School, erected in 1878, at a cost of twenty- six thousand dollars. Two English, one German and two Norwegian newspapers keep the citizens posted in State and national politics and the general news of the locality. Twenty-five churches administer to the religious requirements of the various denominations and nationalities, some of them handsome specimens of church architecture. The Public Library contains about eight thousand volumes adapted to the mixed population. La Crosse, in short, is a rapidly improv- ing city, and we think is destined to become in a few years prominent in population and wealth, and an important factor in the commerce and manufactures of the Nation. CHAPTER XIX. LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. ftftn-fiftl) VICTORY HOUSE, Victory, Wisconsin, September 14, 1881. 'HILE at La Crosse it was decided that our little party should be reduced to a more economical basis, inasmuch as there was little of an exploratory character on the Lower Mississippi, and since the duties devolving upon voyagenrs in a wild country could now be readily dispensed with. Acting upon this decision, Paine rather reluctantly sur- rendered his commission as captain of the Itasca* and joined me in the Alice. The city press having an- nounced the hour of our departure, many citizens had assembled at the landing to witness the launch, which was made at eight o'clock, my friend, Pearce Giles, giving us the "send-off." It was proposed, on setting out in the morning, to make De Soto the evening destination, but a heavy thunder-storm, which had been gathering throughout the afternoon, burst at five o'clock and drove us ashore * This canoe was subsequently ordered to Saint Louis and pre- sented to the Missouri Historical Society. (226) LA CHOSSE TO DUBUQUE. 227 at Victory. This remnant of by-gone days might very appropriately be classed with the Alma, Minneiska, Trempealeau series, which, but for the circumstance that it stands upon the banks of the Father of Waters, would be a poor " Victory " indeed. One of the shining lights of this place, happening to overhear a conversation between Paine and myself, concerning the town of De Soto, situated on the river five miles below, ventured to inquire if in our opinion the " De Sota " after whom the town was called, was any relation of " Minnie Sota," the girl after whom he understood the adjoining State was named ! Nothing of an unusual character in the scenery or of especial interest as to incident was noted in the journey from La Crosse to Victory. A halt was made at one o'clock for dinner, which we had at a farm-house on the right bank, near the boundary line between Min- nesota and Iowa. This was our last meal in the for- mer State. J'tftu-sktl) TKEMONT HOUSE. Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin, September Fifteenth. On retiring to our rooms the previous evening, it was the intention to get into our canoes at seven o'clock in the morning, but we were detained at Victory by rain until after eight, when, taking advantage of a lull in the storm, we pushed off, finding a brisk current, wind down stream and everything favorable until we reached Lansing, when more rain fell, and continued to fall throughout the day. Stopped at a farm-house on the Iowa side for dinner, our 228 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. first meal in the Prairie State. Made short halts at De Soto, Lansing, and Harpers. Wind, rain, a swollen stream and approaching darkness rendered our landing at Prairie du Chieu both difficult and dangerous. We were cautioned by persons on the shore not to attempt to pass under the low pontoon-like railway bridge which crosses the river at this point, but the warning came too late, as the brisk current and suction of the bridge trellis-work had placed the canoe beyond our control," and we were unable to do more than guide it through the network of huge posts which constitute its foundation and support. We succeeded ultimately in getting out of the trap in which we temporarily found ourselves, much to our own relief and the apparent gratification of the anxious spectators on the shore. On the seventeenth of June, 1673, Marquette and Joliet, the former a Jesuit missionary, reached the junc- tion of the Wisconsin with the Mississippi, a little above which,Prairiedu Chien stands to-day. Seven years later, in 1680, Father Hennepin and M. Dugay explored the Mississippi from the mouth of the Illinois northward, and on ascending and descending the river passed the site of the present town. Hennepin claimed at this time to have reached the head-waters of the Missis- sippi, and also to have explored it to its mouth, but his narrative bears evidence of great exaggeration, and procured for him, with the French, the title of " the great falsifier." Yet his achievement was a splendid one, with which he might well have been satisfied. He passed twice the entire distance between the Falls of Saint Anthony and the mouth of the Arkansas, in all nearly three thousand miles, which voyage having LA CKOSSE TO DUBUQUE. 229 been accomplished in a canoe on an unknown and treacherous river, flowing through an unexplored wil- derness, was truly something to be proud of. There is a tolerably well authenticated tradition that Jesuit missionaries had visited the country during the twenty years previous to Marquette's expedition, and had established a number of missions among the Indians of the Mississippi Valley. At an early day a Jesuit mission was established on the present site of Prairie du Chien, and later it became a French trad- ing-post. But Prairie du Chien and the surrounding country have an unwritten history extending back into the remote past, only a few traces of which still remain. Before the invasion of the white race it was the home of the Kickapoos and other tribes of Indians. Going back still farther into the dim past, the unknown race designated as Mound-Builders seem to have made this a favorite locality. In Crawford County, more than in any other part of Wisconsin, are found traces of their work. The antiquity of these mounds is un- doubtedly remote, for frequently what is known as the "virgin forest" is found growing upon them. The mounds found in Crawford County are of vari- ous forms and sizes. One of the largest and highest existed at Prairie du Chien, and was leveled in order to 1 furnish a site for Fort Crawford. It was about twenty feet in height, with a base of two hundred feet. An- other mound of similar form and dimensions stood within the old fort of which Crawford was the successor. The circular form is the most common of these tumuli, though there are many of different shapes. Some are built like walls or breastworks, with open spaces like gates. Others take the form of a serpent ; still others 13 230 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. that of a bird or beast ; while some fe\v mounds resem- ble a man lying on his face. These latter are from three to four feet high. On the shores of the Missis- sippi and Wisconsin, on the beach lands and highest peaks of the bluffs, these mounds are, or rather were, very numerous, and easily discernible from the river. Some of the mounds of Prairie du Chien present a different soil from that on which they are built, none like it having been discovered within several miles, thus indicating that the soil must have been brought from a considerable distance. In no instance is there the appearance of the earth of which they are com- posed having been dug from the side of, or even near them. Sometimes the spot on which the mound stands has a natural elevation. One such, on the south-west angle of Prairie du Chicn, is itself about ten feet high, while the hillock which it occupies gives it the appearance of being at least twice that height. From the top of this mound an extensive view may be obtained of the low bottom-lands and lakes which lie between the channels of the \A r isconsin and Mississippi rivers, giving it the appearance of having been a watch-tower. It is scarcely probable, however, that they were all military defences. The supposition is more plausible that many of them were religious symbols, the mounds serving, perhaps, as altars. There is no positive evidence that they were built as tombs for the dead ; for, though human re- mains have been found in some of them, these remains may have been deposited at later periods, and others have not contained any. But the mounds are fast disappearing before the march of civilization. A utilitarian age and people LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. 231 are demolishing them with the plow, the pick and the spade, and already a majority have disappeared. The antiquarian of the future will sigh in vain for these sole relics of an unknown and a mysterious people. However, in some few instances, they are being pre- served with that care to which their antiquity entitles them. Prairie du Chien, the county-seat of Crawford County, is situated on the eastern bank of the Missis- sippi, on a level plain or prairie about nine miles long and between one and two miles wide. This prairie is bounded on the east by high, rocky bluffs, with scattered clumps of trees, while its western border is washed by the Mississippi. Its name was derived from that of an Indian chief who once resided there, known as Le Chien, or The Dog ; hence Prairie du Chien, or The Dog Prairie. It was one of the oldest of the French trading-posts, but the first permanent settlement was located there in 1783. Gautier de Vorville, Michael Brisbois, and Captain Fisher were among the traders late in the last and early in the present century, and all of them have left descendants. Fisher was of Scotch origin, and carried on an exten- sive trade with the Indians. In 1815 he emigrated to more remote regions on the Red River of the North, but died in Prairie du Chien in 1827. In 1814, the British sent a party of Indians, com- posed of Sioux, Menomonies, and Winnebagos, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel William McKay, to capture Prairie du Chien from the Americans. After a four days' siege the fort surrendered, and the report of a great victory was carried by Captain Rolette to Mackinaw. Lanre numbers thronged the 232 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. shores and inquired of the captain the news. " A great battle a sanguinary contest," responded Rolette, with an air of great solemnity and importance. " How many were killed?" "None." "What a bloody contest ! " vociferated the crowd, as they escorted the hero from the boat to the garrison. The following year, at the conclusion of peace, the post was evacuated. Crawford County was established in 1818, while the country was still embraced in the territory of Michigan. At that early period it extended from the Wisconsin River on the south to the Buffalo River on the north, comprising an area now divided into ten or more counties. Like many of its neighbors up and down the river, Prairie du Chien had great expectations in its youth. It was confident of becoming the chief town of the Mississippi. It is situated five hundred and forty miles north of Saint Louis, in the midst of a productive agri- cultural and mineral region. But though one or more railroads touch it, the great through-lines of the con- tinent passed it by ; and for that, and other reasons, more or less difficult of explanation, but which act as a sort of Providence in shaping the ends of rough- hewn cities, it remains scarcely more than a town, hav- ing but about three thousand inhabitants. It is, however, an important local shipping-post, and has a number of manufactories. Saint John's College and Saint Mary's Female Institute are located here, under control of the Catholic Church. Just above Prairie du Chien is the site of Fort Crawford, near the town of Saint Fiolle, which in 1846 was the larger of the two, but which has now altogether disappeared from the map. Prairie du Chien is a pretty LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. 233 town, being well built, with wide streets and an abundance of shade ; and there is an air of thrift and enterprise about its inhabitants which impress the stranger. As in most other towns of the Upper Missis- sippi, its people are made up largely of New Eng- landers and New Yorkers; and wherever they are found, prosperity is sure to follow in their track. Thus, though Prairie du Chien will probably never become a large city, it will hold its own among the neighboring towns and cities up and down the river, and obtain a due share of the influx of immigration into this section of the country. .f ifto-SttKntf) )aj3. JEFFERSON HOTEL, Guttenberg, Iowa, Sept. Sixteenth. Lecture appointments at Davenport and other points below Dubuque made it imperative that we should launch our canoe at a seasonable hour in the morning, though much against inclination, for the storm which opened the day before was still in progress. Halted a few moments at McGregor, and took dinner at the Mississippi House, Clayton, both of which towns are in Iowa. A glance through their streets reminded us very forcibly of the " waning glory " of Miuneiska, Trempealeau and Victory. Finding the wind from the westward we kept close to the Iowa shore all day. Reached Guttenberg at five o'clock and housed our canoe in the Diamond Jo freight-house. Our clothing was again thoroughly soaked and no changes at hand. Gutteuberg, the county-seat of Clayton County, 234 DOWN THE CHEAT RIVER. Iowa, is twenty-six miles below Prairie du Chien, and two hundred and eighty-one south of Saint Paul. It is the largest town in the county and the river- landing for an extensive section of country. It has a population of about fifteen hundred nearly all Germans. The traveler who seeks to penetrate the region we.t of Guttenberg will first encounter nature in its rough and primitive majesty. He ascends a gigantic bluff, step by step, until he attains a mountain elevation. Then, at his feet, he beholds the Mississippi, dotted with lovely islands and sparkling in the sunlight as it rolls its flood of waters toward the sea. Before him spreads the forest as it appeared a hundred years ago, beautiful in its grandeur. He journeys through it, and his eyes are greeted by smiling farms as he looks west- ward from the hill-tops. The country grows less rugged as he advances, until, five miles from Gutten- berg, he enters a rolling prairie, extending far and wide on either hand, to within three miles of Elkader. This prairie is one of the largest in the State, and is broken into every variety of hill and dale. It is covered with farms, most of them under the very highest state of cultivation. PACIFIC HOUSE, Dubuque, Iowa, Sept. Seventeenth. We paddled away from Guttenberg at eight o'clock in the morning. Weather still unsettled and in keep- ing with that which followed the launching of our canoes at Saint Paul, with the exception of two or LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. 35 three days. We learned from river-men that these September rains are a well-known characteristic of the Upper Mississippi, and are looked for annually. Several attempts were made to arrange for dinner between twelve and one o'clock at farm-houses on the Iowa side, but the stupid foreigners whom we encountered declined to accommodate, seeming to regard us with suspicion. Our perseverance was ulti- mately rewarded with an excellent dinner at Specht's Ferry, thirty miles below Guttenberg. The afternoon was the finest we had chronicled in many days and afforded us a splendid opportunity to study scenery and other objects of interest in our " line of march." The geologist, mineralogist or artist will find in the tour from Prairie dti Cliien to Dubuque a most pro- ductive field for research, and one possessing more beauty of scenery and grandeur than any other sec- tion of the Mississippi below Winona. His attention will be arrested by the peculiar outline of hills that limit the vision on either side of the river, and the perpendicular walls of rock that rise from the grassy slope or green copsewood in massive cliffs, which terrace the heights as with continuous natural battle- ments. This scenery not only characterizes the banks of the Mississippi, but many of its Iowa and Wisconsin tributaries. At the base of the cliffs we often noted cool, clear, and copious springs, which not unfrequently give rise to small streams containing an abundance of delicious trout. The sportsman will find the rivers of this region well stocked with pike, carp, bass, cat-fish, pickerel and sun-fish, while the prairies abound in grouse, partridges and pheasants. 236 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Along the banks of the Mississippi the surface is broken and too uneven for farming purposes, but affords excellent pasturage, while from the valleys and bottoms are gathered hay and grain for winter fodder, leaving little to be desired by the shepherd and stock- raiser. Further back from the river on the Iowa side are found undulating prairies, interspersed with open groves of timber, watered with pebbly or rock-bedded streams, pure and transparent ; hills of moderate eleva- tion and gentle slope, with here and there small lakes and ponds, some skirted with timber, and others sur- rounded by the greensward of the open prairie. Less than forty years have elapsed since this section was in full possession of the Winnebago Indians. How changed the scene! Their villages, their hunting- grounds and the unbroken forests have disappeared. The palefaces came among them, and the axe of the woodman broke the solitude of ages and warned them of an impending fate. No longer shall these groves and plains be the hunting-ground of the red man ; no longer the deep ravines serve as lurking-places for the wily foe, nor the bluff-side as a battle-field between contending tribes. No longer " With tawny limb, And belt and beads in sunlight glistening, Does the savage urge his skiff like A wild bird on the wing." Their struggle against the onward march of civiliza- tion was in vain, and "Where prowled the wolf and where the hunter roved, Faith raised her altars to the God she loved." Our journey was uninterrupted until about four LA CHOSSE TO DUBUQUE. 239 o'clock, when we ran into the log-boom of a saw-mill just above Dubuque. A long "pocket" had been constructed for the reception of logs, and into this we slipped before realizing that, like all well-ordered pockets, there was but one way out of it. We had, in brief, after discovering our dilemma, indulged the hope that as, in a few parallel cases still preserved in memory, there might be a hole in this rather unwelcome Missis- sippi saw-mill-log-boom pocket, and so glided down towards the mill. We recalled our Winona adventure, but that was a squall, while this affair was certainly a boom, and if there is anything in a name, our present unfavorable lookout was likely to result to our advan- tage. Proximity to the inevitable saw-mill finally brought our musings to an end, and our canoe to a standstill, for we had run into a nest of two or three thousand logs, and must either retreat by the route we had entered or lift the canoe over the boom, by no means an easy matter, considering that there was noth- ing but a narrow pole to stand on while we were making the transfer, and that floating on the surface of the water. Running the canoe alongside the boom, Paine stepped out upon the latter, and balancing him- self with his double paddle, gave me a hand, and in a moment more I was beside him. We then hoisted the canoe over and launched it on the other side. It is per- haps needless to add that we resolved to give saw- mills and their booms a wide berth in future. The citizens of Dubuque claim for their city the distinctive title of "Metropolis of Iowa." In what measure the claim is justified we must leave to the other enterprising and flourishing cities of this State to determine. 240 DOWN THE GEE AT EIVER. Up to the year 1803, the French owned an immense region west of the Mississippi, which in that year became part of the public domain of the United States by purchase. This region had previously belonged to Spain, and during the tenure of the Spaniards, namely in 1778, a young Canadian trader, named Julien Dubuque, obtained the privilege of working the lead mines which are situated within the limits of the present city. This privilege was obtained from the Indians, and in 1806, Dubuque and his companions applied to the United States Government to have their claim established as a Spanish grant, on the ground that the governor of Louisiana had confirmed, in 1796, the Indian permission given eight years before. In 1810, Dubuque died; but his heirs-at-law con- tinued to press their claim, and the "Dubuque claim case " was legislated upon in Congress and litigated in the courts for nearly fifty years, until, in 1853, it was finally settled adversely to the claimants. In the year 1832, the Black Hawk War was closed, and a treaty extinguished the title of the Indians to the lands which now form the eastern part of the State of Iowa. A settlement was soon made by a few American immigrants and their families ; others shortly followed, and Dubuque became in two years a busy mining village, having received its name by vote at a public meeting of the settlers. Iowa became a Territory in 1838, Dubuque having been incorporated as a village in the previous year. In 1840 the population of the village was less than one thousand. The first newspaper published in the Ter- ritory was started in 1836, under the title of The Dubuque Visitor. In 1840 a movement was made to LA CROSSE TO DUBUQUE. 241 incorporate Dubuque as a city, and in the spring of 1841 this was effected by the election of a mayor and aldermen to manage the city affairs. The lead-mining operations were prosperous, and the foundation of a flourishing city had been laid by this industry. In December, 1847, Iowa became a State, and the population of Dubuque had now increased to over three thousand. The city had become an im- portant receiving point, but Galena was still its suc- cessful rival for the up-river commerce. It required another decade to secure the success which has been achieved by Dubuque. The emigration from the Eastern States to Iowa in 1850, and for several years afterward, largely added to the population of this city. Improvement of the streets and business blocks followed, with large school- buildings for the accommodation of six hundred pupils each; and, during the five years preceding 1856, Dubuque made more progress than it had done in the previous fifteen years. During this latter year the population had grown to nearly sixteen thousand. In 1857 and 1858 the city met with some reverses owing, to the general financial revulsion; but in 1859 busi- ness revived, immigration from the East was resumed, and (he business men of Dubuque commenced earnest work for the welfare of their promising city. Fine blocks of buildings and commodious public halls were erected, and the General Government began the con- struction of the Custom House and Post-Office. From I860 ti> 1870, the whole country was convulsed by the Civil War and its results. Although far removed from the scenes of military conflicts, Dubuque City and County sent three companies of volunteers to battle 242 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. against rebellion, besides many who enlisted in the regular army. Within a year after the close of the war, the city grew more rapidly; trade, manufactures and public improvements increased, and more houses, schools and churches were built. In 1870 the population of Dubuque had increased to over eighteen thousand. A street railway was added to the facilities for passenger transit; and steady progress made it all that pertains to a healthy munici- pal growth. Among the manufactures of this thriv- ing city are those of steam-engines, boilers, threshing- machines, casting and the work of iron-foundries and machine-shops, coppersmith work, tobacco, window- shades, churns, fanning-mills, trunks, soap, flour, wagons and carriages, furniture, planing-mill work, cooperage, brick, vinegar and many others. The trade in lumber affords a striking contrast. In 1834 a small raft of pine boards, the first that ever descended the Upper Mississippi, furnished the material for a frame building used as a boarding-house in Dubuque. In 1870 fifty million feet of pine lumber were sold from fifteen Dubuque lumber-yards, and the trade has very considerably increased since that date. The first school in Iowa was opened in Dubuque in 1833. At present there are in the city a dozen fine buildings, with about eighty well-qualified teachers and over three thousand pupils to mark the educational progress of its citizens. The lead mines of Juliea Dubuque within the corporation limits and surround- ing them, have been, and are still, an important ele- ment of prosperity. The lead district of Dubuque County comprises over a hundred square miles, but the larger number of the mines are worked within the LA CXOSSE TO DUBUQUE. 243 city, or within a mile or two of it. Many of the valu- able lodes near Dubuque have been worked beneath gardens, streets, roads and cultivated fields. The product of the mines has averaged in value about three hundred thousand dollars annually, and they are still as productive as they were nearly fifty years ago. The Methodists, in 1834, were the first religious denomination established in Dubuque. The Catholics were the next, in 1835; and by the year 1840, the Presbyterians, Congregational ists, Episcopalians and Baptists had organized churches. No city of the Union of equal population has in our opinion more reason to be proud of its position, char- acter and reputation, than Dubuque, in developing all the elements of progress, placed by nature at' its dis- posal. From its fortunate geographical position, nearly midway between Saint Louis and Saint Paul, it bids fair to justify its claim to be the " Metropolis of Iowa." CHAPTER XX. DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. 1 tftB-mntt) JDag. BOWER HOUSE, Bellevue, Iowa, September 18, 1881. MAINED at Dubuque until after din- ner. Spent the morning in strolls through and around the city. On calling for our canoe at one o'clock, we found a strong wind from the south, and in consequence rough water was encountered throughout the afternoon. On leaving Dubuque we noticed a very pro- nounced change in the scenery. The bold, rocky bluffs, which had been observed at intervals all along our route from the Falls of Saint Anthony, had almost entirely disappeared, and in their place rolling prairies came down, iu many cases to the water's edge, in gradual slopes. Illinois is now on our left hand, and as we reach and pass the various cities and towns that serve as landmarks on the river, we begin to realize that we are making good progress toward the Gulf. We were strongly tempted to paddle over to the east bank and set our feet on the soil of the " Sucker " State, but the wind having shifted to westward we (244) DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. 245 thought it wise to hug the windward shore. If more favored to-morrow we shall run over and pay our re- spects. Reached Bellevue at half-past seven o'clock and registered at the Bower House. Here, through the courtesy of our landlord, Mr. N. O. Ames, we were introduced to several very intelligent and agreeable citizens, among whom were Hon. W. O. Evans, editor of the Leader, Captain \V. A. Warren and Mr. B. \V. Seaward. From these gentlemen we gleaned considerable information concerning the peculiar origin and early history of Bellevue. It is said to have been settled by bandits in 1836, and has a present popula- tion of eighteen hundred honest, industrious and pros- perous citizens. It stands on a high bank thirty-two miles below Dubuque, has an excellent landing and is noted for Hs fine scenery. I should do injustice to the moral standard of this respectable and enterprising town, if I failed to exp'/ain that its bandit pioneers, after many sanguinary stuig- gles with the officers of the law, were, long years ugo, exterminated, so that the traveler in these times, who contemplates a sojourn at this delightful summer re- sort, need have no fears, nor provide himself with an unusual supply of ammunition, nor call on the au- thorities to protect his life and property from the onslaughts of marauders. Bellevue has two banks, one weekly paper and an extensive trade by railway in grain, stock and agri- cultural produce. It is a promising town, and its onward move- ment seems assured. 246 DOWN THE GREAT 11IVER. REVEKE HOUSE, Clinton, Iowa, Sept. Nineteenth. So agreeably had we been entertained by the suc- cessors of the " bandits," that we did not re-embark until nine o'clock in the morning, and then rather re- luctantly, notwithstanding our resolution of the pre- vious evening to start at a much earlier hour. \\e reached Sabula, on the west bank, thirty-three miles below Bellevue, a few minutes after one o'clock, at which place we dined. We stepped ashore at Lyons and looked through its principal streets. This city is fifty-eight miles south-east of Dubuque, and three above Clinton, with which it is connected by street railways. It has a national bank, two weekly papers, graded public schools, a seminary, several factories and extensive nurseries. Its population as given by the last census is something over four thousand. Just below Lyons we were met by Messrs. E. L. Moses and W. F. Coan, Jr., "of the Wapsipinicon Boat-club, who, having been apprised through their city papers that we were on our way to Clinton, came up the river to extend the hospitalities of their club. These gentlemen led the way down to their boat- house, where we were shown the various craft in which they delight to cut the water. Boats large and small, and of every variety of manufacture, from the rudest pattern of a dug-out, to the most delicately constructed sculls and skiffs. After spending a half-hour with the " Wapsies" we DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. 247 were escorted to the Revere House and introduced to the proprietor, Mr. J. G. Cornue, to whom we were indebted for many favors and much valuable infor- mation concerning Clinton and vicinity. , Clinton, the county-seat of Clinton County, is situ- ated on the west bank of the Mississippi, just above the mouth of the Wapsipinicon. It is eighty miles l>elo\v Dnbtique, forty-two above Davenport and one hundred and thirty-eight west of Chicago. It contains three banks, one daily and three weekly papers, rail- road repair-shops, foundries, sash and blind-factories, a paper-mill and eight saw-mills. Population about ten thousand. The river is crossed at this point by an iron railway drawbridge, having its eastern ter- minus in Fulton, a small town on the Illinois side. While here, we learned of the death of President Garfield, which occurred between eight and nine o'clock in the evening. The announcement reached Clinton at half-past ten. I had retired, but was aroused by the newsboys, who were crying extras on the streets, and a few moments later the hotel clerk handed me a copy of the Clinton Herald, giving ail account of the sad event at Elberon, New Jersey. PRIVATE HOUSE, Moline, Illinois, September Twentieth. We were up very early in the morning and, after reading the details of the President's death, had breakfast; then walked down to the boat-club house, where we found several members of the club awaiting us. Was introduced to their commodore, Mr. E. M. 14 248 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Treman, and others. Mr. E. L. Moses, who met us above Clinton the evening before, accompanied us down the river in a "scull" as far as Comanche, where he introduced me to an acquaintance of his, Colonel J. H. Smith, late of the Sixteenth Iowa Volunteers, who, I soon discovered, had been a fellow- prisoner at Richmond during the War of the Rebel- lion. We soon fell to talking over our army ex- periences, and became so much absorbed in the inci- dents of our prison-days, that Paine concluded I had quite forgotten that Moline was the evening objective. Perhaps I had, for it is not an easy matter to break away from those with whom we have shared priva- tions, hardships and dangers, when we meet them but once or twice in the course of a lifetime. Had dinner at Cordova, a small hamlet on the Illi- nois shore, twenty-one miles below Clinton. So strong was the current during this day's journey that we covered forty-three miles between nine o'clock in the morning and five in the afternoon, notwithstanding my interview with Colonel Smith, at Comanche, and an hour for refreshments at Cordova. The Le Claire Rapids, ten miles above Moline, were thought by many to be dangerous to navigation in small boats; but we rather coveted the impetus which they were certain to give our staunch little canoe, while we felt sure that their turbulent character had been greatly exaggerated. It is needless to add that the rapids were safely passed and that we heartily en- joyed the excitement which invariably falls to the lot of a voyager in a swift current with occasional slight obstructions. These are the only rapids be- tween Fort Snelling, Minnesota, and Keokuk, Iowa, DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. 249 with the exception of the Lower Rapids at Moline, which are a continuation of the former. The ve- locity of the Upper Rapids is sufficient to turn a mill- wheel requiring considerable power, and we noticed one in operation on the Iowa side. Arriving at a convenient landing-place at Moline, in sight of many evidences of an advanced civilization in the shape of sundry gigantic smoke-stacks, we found ourselves in the lively little city which has been designated, with some show of reason, the " Lowell of the West." Moline is exclusively a manufacturing centre. Passing along its main street, parallel to the river, we see little else than factories, some of con- siderable size, and the busy hum of machinery sa- lutes our ears for more than a mile, as we walk, and look with wonder on these signs of the march of western industry and progress. The motive power produced by a fall in the Mississippi at this point, and utilized for the driving of machinery, is the source of all this energy, and has made Moline one of the busiest and most flourishing places in the western country. The National Government has of late years greatly improved this motive power for the benefit, mainly, of the United States Arsenal works on the island, but no less has it contributed to the solid ad- vantage of the enterprising settlers on the adjacent mainland, and hence Moline, the "City of Mills," has attained its present importance, and, we believe, it may truly be said that no other city in the West, of its size, equals it in manufacturing vigor and re- sources. The great plow-factory of Messrs. Deere & Company is known far and wide, while many other establishments of scarcely less celebrity flourish 250 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. side by side on the river's bank, giving employment to large numbers of people and creating and distributing wealth over the land. The site of this enterprising city is favorable to its growth, and already it extends its arms eastward almost to Rock River, an important tributary of the Mississippi, distant from Moline proper about three miles. It must be said, however, that the useful pre- dominates over the beautiful here, as in most manu- facturing centres, albeit not lacking, over the bluffs, in many beautiful spots, where extensive views of the Great River are obtained, and sites for building are being selected. Educational and religious matters are not forgotten by this busy people. Besides several excellent schools, including a handsome and commo- dious High School, the site of which overlooks the city, and is in every respect a credit to the citizens, Moline has a flourishing Public Library, containing many thousand volumes of theological, historical, bio- graphical and scientific works, together with a good assortment of fiction. Here are also several churches of the various religious denominations and, from all we could learn, the people are generally sober, intelli- gent and industrious. In population Moline is smaller than either Daven- port or Rock Island City, but in manufacturing im- portance it far excels them both. The source of its growth and prosperity the water-power will doubt- less continue to operate as such for generations un- told, and Mobile will eventually fill the entire space between the Mississippi and Rock River at this point. Sylvan Water, the poetic designation given to a por- tion of the Great River lying between the city and AN IOWA TBIBUTARY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. DUBUQUE TO DAVENPORT. 251 Rock-Island Arsenal, has been the scene of the an- nual regatta of the Mississippi Valley Amateur Rowing Association, for which it is found to be emi- nently adapted. A substantial bridge uniting Moline with the arsenal crosses it, and from this a view is ob- tained of the extensive government works now in progress for the permanent improvement of the water- power. CHAPTER XXI. FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. Rock Island Arsenal City of Rock Island. 'HE entire forenoon of September twenty- first was devoted to an inspection of the varied manufactures of Moline, and in the afternoon we dropped down to Daven- port. Among those who shook hands with us at the landing was Colonel P. A. J. Rus- sell, city editor of the Democrat, who was the first to greet me here during my horseback journey from ocean to ocean in 1876, and who now seemed doubly interested in my canoe voyage from source to sea. The colonel remarked that he had no intention of letting me intersect my old line of march without see- ing at least one familiar face. Stepping into a carriage which was in waiting at the ferry, we were driven to the " Kimball," until recently known as the Btirtis House, where I had registered during my former journey. The chief topic of con- versation everywhere at this time was the death and approaching funeral of President Garfield. Having an engagement to lecture at Davenport on the twenty- third, it was thought advisable by many to cancel it out of respect to theNation's dead ; while others urged that as a large number of tickets had been sold it (252) FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 253 would be better to meet the appointment. I accord- ingly lectured at Library Hall, being introduced by Mayor Henry. I referred to the dead President be- fore proceeding with my lecture, and gave my reasons for delivering it at a time when nearly all public en- gagements were either cancelled or postponed. The site of Davenport and its vicinity was the camping-ground of the Indians from time immemo- rial. Marquette and Joliet, the discoverers of the country over two hundred years ago, found the tribes of the Illini here. There were three villages; the main one, at which they landed, was called Pewaria, where, it is believed, the city of Davenport now stands, as it is laid down on Marqtiette's map on the west side of the river " Conception," as he named the Mis- sissippi. The beauty of its location has been often descanted upon. It needs no pen of mine to describe its loveliness and the rich and varied landscape that surrounds it. Less than fifty years ago the first cabin was erected here by white men. The retreating footsteps of the red man were still heard over the bluffs. The graves of his people were still fresh on the brow of the hills, but all of this, with the play-grounds of his children, have now been covered over with the habitations of the pale face. The mighty river that once bore the frail bark of a Marquette and a Joliet has become the thoroughfare of states. Where the light canoe of the savage once glided in safety, the scu-ti-chemon (or steamboat) of the white man now floats with majesty and splendor, and this magnificent river has become the highway of a mighty nation. The Mackinaw trad ing- boat, with its French voyageur has left its 254 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. moorings on As-sln-ne- Man-ess (Rock Island), and old Fort Armstrong, that had stood like a watchful sen- tinel on the jutting rocks of the island for more than forty years, has been burned down by sacrilegious hands. The bluffs of Davenport consist of a gentle rise from the river or bottom lands ; not so steep but that roads are constructed up almost every part of them. The general elevation of these bluffs or highlands is about one hundred feet above the Mississippi, covered now with residences, gardens and cultivated fields to their summit. Davenport Township differs from most others upon the river in the beautiful rolling prairie imme- diately back from the river, after passing the bluffs. Back of the city the slope from the top of the bluff to Duck Creek, covered as it is with gardens and fields, is one of uncommon beauty and richness. At the close of the year 1832 there were no settle- ments of white men in Iowa. In this year, on the fifteenth of September, General Winfield Scott nego- tiated a treaty with the Indians of the Sac tribe for the purchase by the United States of the territory com- prising Scott County, bordering on the river. The city of Davenport was named after Colonel George Davenport, the first white settler on Rock Island, on the eastern shore of the river and immediately opposite the site of Davenport. The Government had appointed him Indian agent and he received a grant of land on the Island. The first person that owned land in Davenport was Antoine Le Claire, the son of a Canadian French- man, born in Michigan in 1797. His mother was the daughter of a Pottawatomie chief. At this time the FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 255 Territory of the Northwest, out of which half a dozen great States have since been formed, was peopled almost entirely by the red man, with here and there one of a different race, fearless enough to brave the perils of a frontier life among the dusky denizens of the wilderness. The father of Le Claire was one of these. The claim upon which the city of Davenport was laid out was purchased by Le Claire for one hun- dred and fifty dollars! In 1835 Mr. Le Claire sold his claim to a company, whose object was to lay it out as a town site. They chose well, as the event has amply established. During the first year only some half dozen families came in, mostly from Saint Louis. The first hotel, the first store and the first saloon were opened this same year. The saloon was a log shanty and stood on Front street below Western avenue. The "Davenport Hotel," a frame building of small pre- tension, erected by Messrs. Davenport and Le Claire, occupied a lot on the corner of Front and Ripley streets ; and the first store was the property of James Mackintosh, who sold to the scant population dry- goods, groceries, hardware and provisions. But, in addition to the dozen families in Davenport, purchasers came from the opposite shore of the river. Lumber was at that time brought up the river from Cincinnati. Flour at sixteen dollars per barrel and pork at six- teen cents per pound were also brought from Cincin- nati. From this first year the ferry also dates its origin a flat-boat propelled by oars. This, in time, gave place to steam, and, at present, a large and com- modious steamboat is constantly employed in trans- ferring freight and passengers between the Iowa and Illinois shores of the river, which at this point is about 256 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. a mile wide. The mortality of Davenport during the first year of its existence amounted to seven, with a population of less than one hundred souls. Stevenson now Rock Island City, on the Illinois shore, which had been laid out in 1834 possessed at this time a population of nearly five hundred. Davenport, in the beauty of its location, excels all the other cities in the State. Handsome homes dot the bluffs. River views, for residences, have been exten- sively occupied by the well-to-do citizens, and the scope of country brought within the range of the eye from some of these hill-top dwellings is scarcely to be excelled for beauty by anything I have seen on the river. The drainage is of nature's own making the city being built on a declivity. There is much room for improvement in the sidewalks here. Possibly the citizens are too busy to give thought to a subject that concerns them only externally. Strangers, however, notice their defective, and in many cases dilapidated, condition, and make uncharitable remarks. The same applies to the County Court House, which is, without exception, the meanest I have seen in any city east of the Rockies and north of "Dixie." Verbum sapientia suffieii. "O wad some power the giftie gie us, To see oursels as ithers see us ! " The educational advantages are proportioned to the size of the city. Here are twelve school-buildings, in- cluding that of the High School, erected in 1874, at a cost of sixty-five thousand dollars. The annual cost of the twelve schools is about seventy thousand dol- lars. Griswold College, belonging to the Protestant Episcopal diocese of Iowa, occupies a very picturesque FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 257 site overlooking the river. The Roman Catholic Academy of the Immaculate Conception is conducted by the Sisters of Charity of the B. V. M. Located within the city boundaries, it is surrounded by beauti- ful grounds and appears as quiet and retired as if miles away from the hum of the restless city. The buildings are elegant and commodious, and a new ad- dition, at a cost of twenty-five thousand dollars is now in course of erection. This academy was opened for the education of young ladies in 1859. The churches are numerous and well attended. Grace Church, the cathedral of the Protestant Episcopal diocese of Iowa, is a very fine, substantial edifice, erected at a cost of eighty thousand dollars. Trinity Church has a chime of bells, awaking mem- ories of youth both grave and gay, and may be heard at a distance of several miles. The Roman Catholic diocese of Davenport, embracing the southern half of the State, has also its seat here in the residence of the bishop. Four Baptist, four Catholic, one Chris- tian, two Congregational, four Episcopal, one Hebrew, three Lutheran, four Methodist, one Unitarian and four Presbyterian churches afford strong evidence of progress in the cause of religion. The Public Library on Brady street, ?s a means of education, is not to be passed over without favorable mention. It was founded by the late Mrs. Clarissa C. Cook, a lady of wealth and benevolence, and con- tains about ten thousand volumes; but the institution which has contributed most to the fame of Davenport, is its Academy of Sciences. This embraces a most valuable collection of rare curiosities, ancient and modern relics from the mounds of Iowa and adjoin- 258 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. ing states, including many skulls and portions of the skeletons of pre-historic man, and of animals of an ex- tinct race. The visitor to Davenport may spend a day very profitably in this well-ordered and attractive mu- seum. Mercy Hospital is under the management of the Sisters of Mercy, and was opened in 1868. It has grown to large proportions and receives and cares for patients without reference to their religious denomina- tion. It has the entire confidence of the citizens and all testify to its judicious management and great use- fulness. The Home for the Friendless, founded and liberally endowed by the benevolent Mrs. Cook, is a shelter for destitute females. It supplies a want found to exist, in a greater or less degree, in most cities, but unfortunately supplied in few. It is to the praise of Davenport that such an institution* has been provided for friendless women and girls, and that it is so well and carefully conducted. The growth of Davenport has been mainly since 1850. Surrounded by a beautiful and fertile country, it aifords good sanitary conditions and every facility for the development of industry of many kinds. The present population is about 25,000. Hock Island Arsenal lies to the north of Rock Is- land City, the latter not being situated on the Island, as might be supposed by the untraveled reader from its name. The Island proper has been appropriated by the United States Government since 1804, though un- occupied until 1812, on the breaking out of the war with Great Britain. A fort was erected here in 1816, and named Fort Armstrong, in honor of the then Secretary of War. It was garrisoned by United States troops until May, 1836, when it was evacuated. In FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 259 1840, the Government established here an ordnance de- pot, but in 1845, the stores were removed to the Saint Louis Arsenal. In 1862, an Act of Congress con- verted the Island into an arsenal for the National Government, and such it remains to this day. General Thomas J. Rodman, the inventor of the Rodman gun, was appointed to the command of the Arsenal in June, 1865, and continued in command until his death in 1871. In March, 1869, Congress appropriated $500,- 000 for the construction of a bridge across the Missis- sippi, uniting the Island with the city of Davenport, im- mediately opposite. General Rodman was succeeded in June, 1871, by Colonel D. W. Flagler, of the Ordnance Corps. This officer, since his appointment, has effected great improvements on the Island, having converted it into a strong military post in fact, the strongest on the Mississippi. He has erected substantial quarters for the commander and his subordinate officers, soldiers' barracks, a complete system of sewerage, a bridge, connecting the Island with the city of Moline; roads, streets and avenues across the Island; a water- power wall, powder-magazine, pump-house, and has introduced the manufacture of stores for the army and machinery for the various shops in which the material of war is extensively fabricated. Rock Island Arsenal is united with the Iowa side of the river, as before stated, by a well-constructed and handsome bridge, 1,550 feet long; and with the Illinois side by two bridges, t>ne leading to Rock Island City and the other to Moline. The one spanning the Miss- issippi on the north of the Island is a most durable structure, and is said to be one of the finest in the United States. 2GQ DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. White settlers appear to have first located in the vicinity of Rock Island about the year 1828. In the spring of that year there were only nine men and their families on the site of the present city of Rock Island. About this time the Indians of the Sac tribe, of whom Black Hawk was the recognized chief, \vere in the habit of leaving their villages on the Island and its vicinity for several months on hunting expeditions, and the white settlers took advantage of this absence to move in and take posessession. This gave rise to much discontent and hostility on the part of Black Hawk and his people when they returned to their homes ; and as the number of settlers increased, the animosity of the Indians became stronger. The com- manding officer on the Island and the Indian agent, Colonel George Davenport, frequently urged the In- dians to give up their villages and lands and move across to the west side of the Mississippi, in accordance with a treaty they had entered into with the United States Government; but Black Hawk refused to go. Keokuk, the chief of the Fox tribe, in compliance with the treaty, moved to the Iowa side of the river and established himself there. From 1828 to 1831, the white settlers on the main land in the vicinity of Rock Island rapidly increased in number. The lands were surveyed and sold to the settlers by the United States Government, but Black Hawk and his party of Sacs, which numbered about five hundred warriors, still occupied their villages and refused to leave. The settlers frequently complained of depredations by the Indians, and in the spring of 1831 Black Hawk warned the white men that they must leave. It was feared that some neighboring tribes of Indians, the FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT. 261 Kickapoos, Pottawatomies and Winnebagos, would join Black Hawk in an attack on the settlers. The latter sent petitions to the military authorities at Rock Island and Saint Louis and to the Governor of Illinois, and in this way commenced what is known as the Black Hawk War. Governor Reynolds, of Illinois, in response to the repeated complaints of the settlers, assembled about sixteen hundred mounted volunteers at Beardstown, ninety miles from Rock Island, and marched them to the Island. General Gaines, who was stationed at Saint Louis, proceeded at once to Rock Island with the Sixth United States Infantry. The settlers were all ordered to move to the Island, and the General sent for Black Hawk for a talk. General Gaines, the offi- cers of the Sixth Regiment, the officers of the Island garrison, and the settlers, met in the Council House. Black Hawk, accompanied by about one hundred war- riors in their war-paint, drew near, and when within about one hundred yards of the place of assembly commenced shouting in a very loud and intimidating voice. It was thought, from the shouting and the manner of the Indians, that there would be an at- tempt made at a general massacre. A man called " The Prophet," who always accompanied Black Hawk, commenced shouting in the Council House in a very boisterous manner, gesticulating and speaking rapidly as though he was very angry and desired to excite the warriors to an attack. General Gaines spoke to Black Hawk quietly of the sale of their lands to the United States Government. The Indians said the lands had never been sold. General Gaines then called for the reading of the treaty, which seemed to enrage them 262 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. still more. Black Hawk exclaimed, "The white peo- ple speak from a paper, but," striking his hand upon his breast, "the Indian always speaks from the heart." He said their lands had not been sold, as the men who signed the treaty had no authority to sell, having been sent to meet the Government chiefs at Saint Louis on other business. And if it was sold, they got nothing for it. The General then pressed for an answer about his leaving for the territory assigned him and his people on the west side of the Mississippi. He replied, that he would not leave, and he would not fight, but if the whites came to drive him off, he would sit down in his wigwam and they might do as they pleased with him ; for himself he would do nothing. General Gaines in- terpreted this to mean that he would fight. On the evening of June nineteenth, 1831, General Gaines' command was joined by General Reynolds with his volunteer troops near the mouth of Rock River, and the next morning the combined forces moved upon the Indian village. They found, how- ever, that Black Hawk and all his people had left. They had crossed the Mississippi and camped about twelve miles below Rock Island. June thirtieth, Black Hawk came to the Island with twenty-seven of his warriors and signed a treaty of peace with General Gaines and the governor of Illinois, the latter acting in behalf of the Government. In this treaty, Black Hawk pledged himself not to return to the east side of the river near the Island, or to engage again in hostilities with the white settlers. The Illinois volunteers were then disbanded and went home, and provisions were distributed to the Indians by General Gaines. FO UR DAYS AT DA YEN FOR T. 263 During the following winter, it became evident that Black Hawk would not keep the treaty which he had signed only a few months before; and in the following April (1832) he crossed the Mississippi at Burlington and moved up the bank of the river with about five hundred warriors and his women and children, with the intention of driving out the settlers and reoccupy- ing his old village on the Island. He expected assist- ance from the Winnebagos and other Indians on Rock River. The news of Black Hawk's movements soon reached Saint Louis, and Colonel Atkinson left that city with the First Infantry for Rock Island. Lieutenant-Colonel Zachary Taylor, afterwards Presi- dent of the United States, was in command, and Lieu- tenant Jefferson Davis, afterwards President of the Confederate States, was attached to the First Regiment, and served through the campaign. Governor Rey- nolds, of Illinois, assembled about two thousand volun- teers at Beardstown and marched to Yellow Banks, fifty miles below Rock Island. Then he moved to the mouth of Rock River, where he was joined by Colonel Atkinson and the regulars. The volunteers were commanded by General Whiteside; and Abraham Lincoln, afterwards President of the United States, held the rajik of captain in the command and fought throughout the campaign. The Indians had gone up Rock River until they were opposite Rock Island. Then Black Hawk sent his women and children up the river in canoes, and he and his warriors ventured a bold attempt to capture Fort Armstrong on the Island. At this time the garrison mustered less thau eighty fighting men. Black Hawk crossed to the Island with his warriors by night, a distance of five miles through. 15 264 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. the woods and over the bluffs to the west side. A violent snow-storm prevented an attack that night, and before morning Colonel Atkinson arrived with the First Infantry and probably saved the small gar- rison from massacre. The Indians- withdrew during the night and fol- lowed their women up Rock River. Colonel Atkin- son at once joined General Whiteside and his volun- teers and started in pursuit. After much hard fight- ing in the months of May, June, July and August, nearly the whole of Black Hawk's band was destroyed, and Black Hawk himself, his son Seoskuk and other chiefs, were captured and conveyed to Rock Island. They were afterwards taken to Washington and other eastern cities. The Government took much pains to secure for Black Hawk a kind reception by the Indians upon his return from his "eastern tour;" and the ac- counts of the meeting between him and the chiefs at Rock Island are very affecting. Black Hawk then established himself, with a remnant of his own tribe, on Des Moines River, in Iowa, where he died in 1838. Tradition states that the Sacs and Foxes came from the vicinity of Montreal, Canada, before the year 1700; and that they had lived in their villages on or near Rock Island fully one hundred and fifty years. Their affection for these villages was like that of the Israelites for their city of Jerusalem. At the close of the Black Hawk War, there is no record of further hostilities with the Indians at Rock Island. During the late Civil War, the Island was made available by the Government as a military prison, up- wards of twelve thousand Confederate prisoners having been confined here. Of these, one thousand nine liun- FO UR DA YS A T DA VEXPORT. 265 dml and sixty-one died during their imprisonment and were hurled on the Island. About four hundred Union soldiers were also buried here, and on each re- curring Decoration Day, the graves are strewn with flowers. There is little more to be said of the Island except that it rests upon a substantial foundation of rock of the limestone order and hence its name. The length of the Island is two and three-quarter miles, and its width varies from a quarter to three-quarters of a mile. A very pleasant day may be passed in wander- ing over this island, which seems intended to become the arsenal for the entire Mississippi Valley. When the works are completed, if crdwded to its full capacity, it will arm, equip and supply an army of seven hun- dred and fifty thousand men so it is estimated. Surrounded with the paraphernalia of grim war, Commandant Flagler has found time and opportunity for the cultivation of the science of ornithology, and has converted his island-fortress into an immense aviary ! Here are to be seen, flitting about the dense foliage of the woodlands, almost every variety of American bird nearly all song-birds, which build their nests and raise their broods on the Island unmolested. It is a singular adjunct to an arsenal and reflects credit on the taste and refinement of its gallant commander. The colonel wages war without quarter on the English sparrow, however, which he will not allow to alight and rest its little wings on his preserves on pain of summary execution by the shot-gun, without even a preliminary trial by court-martial. The city of Rock Island is situated on the main- land at the extremity of Rock Island Arsenal, on the 2G6 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Illinois or left bank of the river. On its eastern side are some very picturesque bluffs, stretching away to the sheltered valley of the Rock River, and including scenery of unrivaled beauty. Comfortable residences dot the sides of these hills, amid clumps of trees and miniature forests that afford shelter and shade to the well-to-do residents. Rock Island is about midway between Saint Louis and Saint Paul, and immediately opposite the more populous city of Davenport, Iowa. It is, as already stated, connected with the latter city by an elegant and substantial iron bridge, owned by the Government and open to the public free of toll. The famous water-power produced by the lower rapids has contributed largely to the marvelous growth of this city as well as of Moline, the city of factories, within an easy walk or horse-car ride of Rock Island City. Here is to be the terminus of the projected Hennepin Canal, by which it is proposed to solve the problem of cheap transportation between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mississippi, through the intervening great lakes. Recently a deep interest has been mani- fested in the construction of this canal, the accomplish- ment of which will doubtless be of vast benefit to the people of the North-west, as well as to the public generally. In Rock Island City we found numerous flourish- ing establishments for the manufacture of plows, culti- vators and other agricultural appliances; of wagons and carriages, together with foundries and machine- shops. At night the streets are brilliant with the Brush electric lights ; the side-walks are well paved and clean, and generally in a much better condition for pedestrians than those of the sister city of Daveu- FO UR DA YS AT DA VENPORT. 2G7 port, across the river. Rock Island has a well-organ-^ ized police force; a fire department, water-works, street cars, and a flourishing Public Library; free postal delivery, churches, public schools, and a commerce and trade second to no city of its size in the Union. In the interest of the growth of a city the transportation problem is, perhaps, the most important question for the consideration of the citizens, and Rock Island is very favorably situated in this respect, owing to her position as the centre of a system of railroads. Several lines pass through here and give the city a busy aspect at all times. It is on the line of the great transconti- nental highway. The Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railroad, passing through Rock Island, con- nects the eastern trunk lines with the Union Pacific at Omaha ; and here also are depots of the Chicago, Milwaukee and Saint Paul ; the Chicago and North- western ; the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy; the Rock Island and Peoria, and the Rock Island and Mercer County railways. The population of this enterprising little city is at present about 16,000. The private residences have a neat and thrifty appearance, while some afford evidence of the wealth and taste of their owners. The shrubbery and flowers which cluster about the doorways of even the humblest resi- dences are indications of the comfort and thriving condition of the tenants. Three miles inland from Rock Island City is situ- ated a very picturesque and romantic resort, which is frequented by the inhabitants of both sides of the river at this point, the traditionary name of which is Black Hawk's Watch-Tower. The tower is of nature's archi- tecture, and is the summit of the highest hill overlook- 268 DOWX THE GREAT RIVER. ing Rock River, an important tributary, from which a most extensive and pleasing picture of the surround- ing country is obtained. The look-out derives its fanciful name from its having been used by Black Hawk as a point from which he could survey his coun- try for many miles round and the valley of the great, winding river. It is said to have been selected by the chief's father, and overlooked the tribe's first village near the banks of Rock River. Black Hawk in the account he gave to Antoine Le Claire, in 1833, says: "The Tower was my favorite resort and was often visited by me alone, where I could sit and smoke my pipe and look with wonder and pleasure at the grand scenes that were presented, even across the mighty river. On one occasion a Frenchman, who had been resting in our village, brought his violin with him to the Tower, to play and dance for the amusement of my people who had assembled there, and, while dancing with his back to the cliff, accidentally fell over it and was killed. The Indians say that at the same time of the year soft strains of the violin can be heard near the spot." He further relates that "in the year 1827 a young Sioux Indian, who was lost in a violent snow- storm, found his way into a camp of the Sacs, and while there fell in love with a beautiful maiden. On leav- ing for his own country he promised to return in the summer and claim his bride. He did so, secreting himself in the woods until he met the object of his affection. A heavy thunder-storm was coming on at the time, and the lovers took shelter tinder a rocky cliff on the south side of the Tower. Soon a loud peal of thunder was heard : the cliff was rent into a thousand pieces and they were buried beneath them. This, their FO UR DAYS AT DA VENPOR T. 271 unexpected tomb," says Black Hawk, "still remains undisturbed." The "Tower" is much admired, and the street-cars of Rock Island convey many hundreds of visitors to its summit in the spring, summer and autumn, where they pic-nic for the day and enjoy, with the pure, healthful breezes, a most sublime view of the country for many miles. The property is owned by the Davenport family and is made freely accessible to all. CHAPTER XXII. DAVENPORT TO BURLINGTON. EASTERN HOTEL, JUuscatina, Iowa, September 25, 1881. >E found an extended field for observation at Davenport, Rock Island and their environs, and would gladly have spent many more days in this delightful lo- cality ; but to keep in advance of the cold weather, which was now following us down the river with rapid strides, it was deemed pru- dent to press forward with all possible despatch. In consequence of this decision the lecture programme was abandoned and short halts contemplated in the cities and towns lying along our route. Greatly refreshed by our four days on shore, we resolved to make an early start on the morning of the twenty-fifth, and at seven o'clock were in our canoe. Colonel Russell was at the landing, and after returning my " Mississippi Album," which had been left with him the previous evening, pushed us out into the stream with best wishes for a prosperous voyage. (272) DAVENPORT TO BURLINGTON. 273 On opening the album the following lines were found inscribed in the colonel's familiar hand : "DAVENPORT, on the Mississippi., "Mr DEAR CAPTAIN : September 25, 1881. " Safety and success, thus far, Adown this mighty stream ; May heaven guard thy progress still, And grant fulfilment of your dream ! " We echoed the sentiment of the last two lines thenceforth to the end of our voyage. A vigorous use of our paddles for an hour and a half brought us to Buffalo, a small village on the right bank, ten miles below Davenport. After dinner at Buffalo we resumed our journey with Muscatine as the evening destination, which city was reached at five O / o'clock. We now began to regard ourselves as something more than amateurs in canoe navigation, as the distance covered from day to day will convince the reader that we were not lacking in propelling force. Muscatine, on the west bank of the Mississippi, is built on a rocky bluff, the scenery from which in all direc- tions is very charming to the lover of nature. The city is situated at the apex of the Great Bend, thirty miles below Davenport and three hundred and seven- teen miles above Saint Louis by rail. The Muscatine division of the Burlington, Cedar Rapids and Minne- sota, and the south-western branch of the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific railways have their stations here. It is the shipping-point of an extensive and fertile surrounding country, while widely extended beds of coal and quarries of freestone and limestone 274 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. are in the neighborhood. Its lumber business is large and increasing, and barley, corn, oats, rye, wheat, wool, butter and pork are produced on the rich farms ad- joining. It supports two large pork-packing estab-' lishments and three extensive saw-mills, and has a "-as- ' O works, four banking houses, good public schools, a Catholic school, a fine public library, five newspapers, a monthly periodical, and fifteen churches. Muscatine was first settled in 1836, and was incorporated as a city in 1853; and if the public spirit displayed by her capitalists is any indication of future prosperity, I con- clude that they will not be disappointed. The popula- tion now reaches over ten thousand. FARM HOUSE, Near Mouth of Iowa River, September Twenty-sixth. Learning that this day, which had been appointed for the funeral of the late President Garfield, would be observed at Muscatine with befitting ceremonies, we remained in that city until three o'clock in the after- noon, in the meantime listening to an eloquent oration upon the life and public services of the eminent sol- dier and illustrious statesman whose brilliant career had been so suddenly closed by the hand of the assassin. It was some time since we had enjoyed the hospi- talities of the farmers, but we had, nevertheless, not forgotten that many of the pleasantest evenings of our journey had been spent in the farm-houses of Minne- sota. We were now desirous of testing the courtesies and accommodations of the Iowa grangers, and also DAVENPORT TO BURLINGTON. 275 of picking up some information concerning their social and industrial progress. It was fortunate, perhaps, that circumstances brought us to the farm of John Warren Walton, a pioneer of Louisa County, an intelligent and affable gentleman. We wandered over Mr. Walton's farm, and, looking to the westward from an elevated position, our eyes rested upon the beautiful groves and running streams, and we wondered not that Keokuk and Black Hawk clung with such tenacity to their ancestral hunting- grounds. The Iowa River passes diagonally through this sec- tion of lo .va to its confluence with the. Mississippi. Its banks are heavily timbered, and the farmer finds his highest hopes realized in the natural resources of his possessions. In this county, but a few miles from the Walton farm, is the small village of Florence, which lives in history as the home of Black Hawk. Here repose the bones of his ancestors, while the re- nowned chief "sleeps his last sleep" in a distant part of the State. Our evening with the Wai tons was oc- cupied chiefly in looking over a large number of Indian relics which had been carefully preserved and classi- fied by our agreeable host. It was one of the finest private collections we had ever examined. BARRETT HOUSE, Burlington, Iowa, Sept. Twenty- seventh. " Weighed anchor" at seven o'clock. Our attention. had been drawn to so many objects of interest in our route to Burlington that we clearly saw the necessity 276 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. of an early start. Weather pleasant and but little wind. We ran down to Keithsbnrg for dinner. This is a small village of Mercer County, Illinois, thirty- five miles below Muscatine, and sixty-eight south-west of Chicago. It has a national bank, a graded public school, and a weekly paper. Population about one thousand. So genial were wind and weather during our sixty- sixth day that we were registered at the Barrett House, Burlington, at five o'clock, having covered forty-four miles, since pushing off at the mouth of the Iowa in the morning. I had hardly reached my room at the hotel when my daughter, Alice, now a girl of twelve years, came bounding up the stairs to meet me. She had been looking for us all the afternoon, but we had dropped into Burlington so quietly that very few were aware of our arrival until we were registered at the " Bar- rett." I had placed her at a private school here be- fore starting on my expedition. After tea the card of a representative of the Hawk- eye was handed me, followed a moment later by the sender, Mr. J. E. Calkins, who politely solicited for his paper the fullest particulars of our explorations and discoveries in Northern Minnesota. This infor- mation we, of course, readily furnished, and the following day the readers of the Hawkey e were presented with a narrative of the discovery of the source of the Mississippi, and a brief outline of our voyage down the river. Julian Dubuque, a French-Canadian, was the first pioneer, as has been previously stated, who found his DAVENPORT TO BURLINGTON. 277 \vay to what now constitutes the State of Iowa. At this period, 1778, the country about Burlington was claimed by France, and that government granted to the intrepid pioneer a large tract of land which in- cluded the site of the now flourishing city of Dubuque. His purpose was, like that of most of the earliest pio- neers, to trade with the Indians for their furs, and his death occurred in 1810. In 1833, the first American settlers arrived here, after the Black Hawk Indians had ceded their lands by treaty to the United States. These settlers came mostly from Illinois and located on the spot then called "The Flint Hills," on which the city of Burlington now stands. Not a single mark of civilization greeted these early settlers, if we except the trading-post of Julian Dubuque's successor, on the present site of the city named after him. The Mississippi was the west- ern limit of civilization, but the land of promise lay beyond. Unbroken forests swept from the heights of Flint Hills down to the river's edge, with here and there the solitary wigwam of an Indian who yet lin- gered on the spot he had bartered away to the white man. The city of Burlington, on the right bank of the Mississippi, is five hundred and thirty-six miles below Saint Paul, and two hundred and fifty above Saint Louis. Along the bank.of the river and the valley of Hawkeye creek, the land is low, but back of this the site of the city is hilly to the height of two hundred feet, to the level of the prairie which stretches away to the west. The first settler on the site of Burlington was Samuel S. White, who built his cabin on what is now Front street, just below the lots on which the Sunder- 278 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Jand mills stand. White's brother-in-law, Doolittle, and others, joined him in 1834, and together they laid out the original town. John Grey, a Vermonter, a friend of White, gave the name of " Burlington " to the prospective town, in honor of the city of that name in his native State. The future Burlington com- prised then only a few log-cabins, and the first frame houses were erected by White and Doolittle in 1834. In this year the first store was opened by Dr. Samuel S. Ross. The first brick house was built by Judge David Rorer, in 1836. In 1837, the population of the embryo city num- bered three hundred, and in February, 1838, Burling- ton was incorporated. On the twenty-eighth of Decem- ber, 1846, Iowa was admitted into the Union and John Lucas elected its first governor. Zion Church was used as a place of worship and State-house from the installation of the territorial government, in 1838, until the removal of the State capital to Iowa City. It stood on Third street, between Washington and Columbia streets, on the spot where now stands the magnificent Opera House, the pride of the Orchard City. "Old Zion" is no more. Burlington's first school-house was erected in the year 1835; and its first saw-mill in 1837. Dr. Ross and Miss Matilda Morgan were the parties to the first wedding in 1833. The license and the preacher were obtained from Monmouth, Illinois, there being no terri- torial government at this time, and therefore no author- ity to perform the marriage ceremony on the west side of the river. The bridal company crossed in a scow and the knot was tied as they stood on the eastern bank, after which the guests returned to make merry DA VENPORT TO B UELING TON. 279 at the wedding dinner. From a population of three hundred in 1837, Burlington leaped to one of twenty thousand in 1880, an interval of only forty-three years, and at the present date (1885) it numbers at least twenty-eight thousand inhabitants. A considerable proportion of these are of German birth or descent, many of whom are among its most substantial and en- terprising citizens. Burlington is a city of the first-class, with a mayor and aldermen, a well -organized police force, fire de- partment, water-works, gas, street-cars, a fine public library, churches, public schools, two colleges, one of the best opera-houses in the West, a splendid boat-club house, ami commerce, trade and manufactures of a character to warrant the belief of her citizens that in a few more years she will rank among the first of western cities. The private residences are exceedingly attractive in appearance, and nothing could be more beautiful than the view from those on the summit of Prospect Hill. Most of them are owned by their oc- cupants, which accounts for their neat and thrifty style and surroundings. The little park on North Hill is a delightful resort in the summer, with its fountain and walks and seats under the shade of the maples and elms. North of the Catholic Cemetery is Black Hawk Amphitheatre, with a great granite boulder in its centre. Here, tradition says, the Sacs and Foxes assembled in council and determined the question of peace or war. The granite boulder was the rostrum from which Black Hawk appealed to his people when they rallied for the final struggle with the white man. The city of Burlington is favorably situated in the important matter of transportation facilities. With 280 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. nine lines of railway radiating to all points of the com- pass she connects with Chicago, Cleveland, Cincinnati, and the South-east ; with Saint Paul, Minneapolis and theNorth-west ; and with Missouri, Nebraska, Kansas, Colorado and Texas. She thus enjoys every advantage for developing her trade. The Mississippi also plays an important part as a means of transportation, large amounts of merchandise being brought here for dis- tribution. The levee is a very fine one, embracing a quarter of a mile of solid paved roadway, with a gradual slope, making the landing easy of access. The quantity of freight received and shipped by river is said to be rapidly increasing. Large amounts of lum- ber from up-river are received and landed at Burling- ton to be stored in the yards to dry, after which it is shipped by railway to various points in Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, and Nebraska. The amount of lumber shipped from Burlington is a large item in her general trade. The smokestacks of the manufactories are seen in all parts of the city. The Murray Iron Works are large and substantial buildings. The Bur- lington Plow Company, Wolfe's Furniture Factory, the Buffington Wheel Works, and many others, are fully up to the times in the character and amount of their products. The Opera House is a credit and an ornament to the city and is one of the finest constructed theatres in the West. It was opened in 1882, and cost one hundred thousand dollars. The Burlington Boat-club has been an important factor in promoting the improve- ment of the city. Its primary objects were to build and maintain a boat-house, purchase boats and pro- mote the art of rowing with a view to the improve- DA YEN FOR T TO B VRLING TON. 281 ment of its members in manly exercise. But they have accomplished far more, and to them the city owes, in a great measure, the erection of its beautiful opera-house. They have a very handsome club-house 'which orna- ments the river approach to the city, and the members, besides extending their fame from Lake Minnetonka to Creve Cour Lake, have participated with honors in the regatta of the National Rowing Association at Washington. A large percentage of the muscle and blood of Burlington are numbered among its members, who are noted for their skill in aquatic contests and regattas occurring in the Mississippi Valley. A splendid iron bridge crosses the river at this point, built by theChicago, Burlington and Quincy Rail- road Company. It consists of nine spans and is about two thousand two hundred feet in length. There is also a commodious steam-ferry crossing the river to Hender- son, which is considered one of the finest on the Mis- sissippi. The Public Library occupies pleasant and well-arranged rooms on the north-west corner of Fourth and Jefferson streets. It has about seven thousand volumes on its shelves, which have cost over ten thou- sand dollars. The library originated in a liberal gift of five thousand dollars by the Hon. James W. Grimes. The educational interests of Burlington appear to have been carefully fostered, as evidenced by the public schools, the denominational schools, private schools, colleges and academies. The high-school building is a model of its kind. Burlington College, at the head of College Street, is surrounded by ample and orna- mented grounds, and is a select boarding and day school for young ladies and gentlemen. The Academy 16 282 DOWN THE GREAT KIVER. of Our Lady of Lourdes, on the corner of Fourth and Court streets, has a handsome building and accommo- dates about one hundred and twenty pupils. Several other public and private schools flourish here, and the poorest citizen can secure a good education for his children. The press of Burlington through one of its members, has carried the name and fame of this city into the re- motest corner of America; and across the ocean, on the news-stands of London, Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham and Glasgow, it is found, and has given the city of its birth and growth a cosmopolitan char- acter which it will probably never lose. Esto perpetua,' "The Burlington Hawkeye ! " May thy witty and in- structive pages continue to delight our descendants as they have instructed and delighted us. CHAPTER XXIII. BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. GALT HOUSE, A I Mo ntrose, Iowa, September 28, 1881. A, wont you let me get into the canoe and go a little way with you and Mr. Paine this morning?" These were the words that greeted my ears as we were about to re-embark at Burlington. It had f never occurred to us that any one, large or small, would covet the position of third person in the very limited space at our command, for the good reason that a casual glance forbade such a vent- ure; but Alice being persistent in her request to try it, we lifted her into the canoe and pushed off. Find- ing that our staunch little craft was not overburdened, we headed down stream, and were soon making good progress towards Dallas, our noonday objective. The only other incident of the morning was our first ad- venture with a sand-bar. It would hardly appear that a boat so slight as to draw but five inches of water could be brought to a stand by such an obstruction, but such was the case, much to our chagrin and the great amusement of the passengers and crews of the (283) 284 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. passing river steamers. The explanation is brief. A strong current throws the canoe or skiff upon the bar, and the voyager, not wishing to risk a wetting by stepping out of his boat and pushing or pulling her off the bar, continues to use his paddle or oar aided by the current, which, instead of helping him out of his dif- ficulty, only renders his escape all the more impossible. After considerable moralizing and many experiments with our paddles, which did not materially improve the situation, captain and crew pulled off their boots and stepping out on the bar, carried the canoe and its solitary passenger into water of sufficient depth to float it. This occurrence on the sand-bar had no at- tractions for Paine or myself, but was greatly enjoyed by Alice, who exclaimed : "Oh, I am so glad, papa, for now I can remain with you so much the longer." Dallas was reached in season for dinner. This town is in Hancock County, Illinois, fifteen miles below Burlington on the opposite shore. It has a weekly paper, two banks and several factories. Population something over eight hundred. While at Dallas we were introduced to Dr. J. M. Lionberger and Mr. Benoni Mendenhall, who seemed to find much pleasure in pointing out the attractions of their village. I was indebted to Dr. Lionberger for the assurance that he would assume the responsi- bility of safely returning my daughter to ' Burling- ton. Parting with her at 'this place was the most trying experience that fell to my lot during our long voyage. Her desire to remain with us; the affectionate solicitude expressed for me, and the reluctance with which she promised to return to school, were quite all I could bear. BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 285 During our journey from Dallas to Montrose we observed on both banks of the river many graceful slopes, swelling and sinking, as far as the eye could reach. In some instances dense forests still cover these slopes with timber of the finest quality, the oak pre- vailing. Again, they revel in their carpet of green, dotted here and there with clumps of trees that it would baffle the skill of the landscape gardener to imitate; now crowning the grassy heights, now clothing the green fields with partial or isolated shade. The slopes and the rich alluvial bottoms that inter- vene furnish the sites for the numerous cities, towns and villages which stud the banks of the Father of Waters, like gems in this great sea of commerce. From the hill-tops are seen cultivated meadows and rich pasture grounds, irrigated by numerous rivulets winding through fields of hay, fringed with flourish- ing willows. On the summit levels spread the rich farms of Iowa and Illinois, the long, undulating waves of the prairie stretching away until sky and meadow mingle in the wavy blue. Art, science and manufact- ures gather their busy multitudes here and take posses- sion of these sylvan scenes. As we glide along in our voyage towards the sea the ear is greeted by " The mill-stream's fall, The engine's pant along its quivering rails, The anvil's ring, the measured beat of flails, The sweep of scythes, the reaper's whistled tune, Answering the summons of the bells of noon; The woodman's hail along the river shores, The steamboat's signal, and the dip of oars." Among the chief objects of a noteworthy character which especially arrested our attention in this day's DOWN THE GREAT 1UVER. journey were Nauvoo and the ruins of its Mormon Temple, which, on account of their peculiar history, claim more than a passing notice. Nauvoo, the "City of Beauty," situated on the eastern bank of the Mississippi, about midway on the western boundary of the State of Illinois, 1ms an eventful his- tory. It is to-day a small village composed of a few houses at a short distance from the ruins of the once mag- nificent Mormon Temple. The village is located upon one of the most lovely sites on the river, the ground rising with a gentle slope to a wide plateau at the summit, which overlooks the river and opposite coun- try for many miles. In 1840 the spot, where subse- quently the town was built, became a refuge for the Mormons, who were fleeing from the persecutions of an angry mob. A branch of the Mormon community had early been located in Jackson County, Missouri. According to an alleged revelation given to Joseph Smith, their pseudo prophet, that locality was the very spot on which "Adam's altar was built, in the centre of the Garden of Eden ! " They had not been, ac- cording to the report, wholly desirable citizens and neighbors, and the inhabitants at last expelled them. Ziou fell into the hands of the Gentiles, and while some of the Mormons returned to Kirtland, Ohio, others settled in Clay County, Illinois. For several years they remained in this county un- molested, and even made many converts. In 1837, the bank of Kirtland having failed, Smith, Rigdon and others joined the Missouri settlement. A spirit of insubordination had sprung up in this community. There were contentions among those within, and quar- rels with those without, and for three years a general BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 287 excitement prevailed in the State. The Mormons came into frequent collision with their Gentile neigh- bors, and many persons were killed. The "Saints" openly defied the people who were not of their belief, and, with zeal begotten of fanaticism, even threatened to march upon Saint Louis and lay it in ashes. Rumors now circulated among the people generally regarding the immoral practices of the leaders. Polyg- amy had not yet become a recognized doctrine of their church, and was even expressly forbidden by the " Book of Mormon." Finally, the disfavor in which they were held by the unbelievers in their religion, culminated, and in November the entire people of the Mormon settlement were compelled to flee for their lives towards the Mississippi. Young and old, the sick and infirm, helpless women and children as well as strong men, twelve thousand in number, exposed to cold and hunger and every privation, at last found a temporary resting-place upon the western bank of the Great River. The people of Illinois, on the opposite side, believ- ing that the persecution was unjust to which the Mor- mons had been so ruthlessly subjected, extended help to them, and invited them to the shore of their State. Crossing the river, they pitched their tents upon a rich delta formed by the Des Moines and Mississippi rivers, and thus the town of Nauvoo was founded. The believers soon built themselves rude log-huts, while they gave freely of their scant means for the erection of a temple, which was designed to excel in magnificence every other religious edifice in the world. This temple eventually cost them over five hundred thousand dollars, and was built of polished limestone. 288 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. It was one hundred and thirty feet long by eighty- eight wide; sixty-five feet to the cornice, and with a cupola one hundred and sixty -three feet in height. The weather-vane on the summit of the spire represented the figure of a prophet blowing a trumpet. An immense stone basin, supported by twelve colossal oxen, formed the baptistery, which was in the basement. The plan of the temple was revealed to Joseph Smith, according to his statement, and the corner-stone was laid on April sixth, 1841. They were allowed to dwell in quiet in their new home; but to prepare for future contingencies, Smith organized a military corps, which he called the Nauvoo Legion, and of which he assumed command with the rank of lieutenant-general. On parade the prophet appeared at the head of his Legion, followed by half a dozen females on horseback, dressed in black velvet riding-habits, with long white plumes on their hats. At Nauvoo was first given the alleged revelation concerning "spiritual wives," which finally culminated in open polygamy. This and other objectionable prac- tices of the "Saints" fell under condemnation. The people of Illinois, like those of Missouri, felt scandal- ized. Smith attempted to check the rising storm by contradictions, denunciations and excommunications. But those who thus fell under his displeasure de- nounced him in turn. A newspaper was established at Nauvoo in acknowledged opposition to him, and charged him with all the crimes of which he had ac- cused others. By his orders the paper was suppressed, the printing material destroyed, and the editors were compelled to flee for their lives. The latter entered complaint at Carthage for the violence done them, and BURLLNGTOX TO QUINCY. 289 warrants were issued for the arrest of Joseph Smith and his brother Hiram. The faithful rallied around their prophet and resisted the officers sent to serve the warrants. The city was fortified and the Legion slept under arms. The governor of the State personally interfered and persuaded the Smiths to surrender, on the assurance that they should receive protection and justice. They were accordingly arrested and placed in Carthage jail. But a new charge was brought against them, that of treason against the Government, and it was rumored that through the connivance of the governor they were permitted to make their escape. The people be- came panic-stricken and vowed that " if law could not reach them, powder and shot should." On the evening of the twenty -seventh of June, 1844, the jail of Carthage was forcibly entered by a mob, armed and disguised. Hiram Smith was shot dead in his cell, and Joseph was mortally wounded as he was attempting to leap from a window. Placing him against the wall of the jail, four muskets at once put an end to his life. The executioners were never identified. Smith was at once magnified into a martyr, and his blood became the " seed of the church," which has in- creased in numbers from that day to this. Brigham Young was elected by the " College of Apostles," of which he was president, to succeed Smith as the head of their church, and the new chief promptly excom- municated Rigdon and others who had aspired to the position. Young moderated the vengeance of the Mor- mons, and peace seemed again to be about settling on the community, when Eigdon and the other recreants 290 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. spread reports of crime and debauchery at Kativoo from one section of the country to the other. The smaller Mormon settlements, off-shoots of that at Nau- voo, were promptly attacked by armed mobs, and the same fate would doubtless have befallen the larger place had not a "special revelation" been received commanding the immediate departure of the Saints to the then remote West on the Missouri River, near Council Bluffs. In February, 1846, sixteen hundred men, women and children crossed the Mississippi on the ice, on foot and in ox-teams, for the new Land of Promise. Others followed them as soon as property could be disposed of and arrangements made. A command was, how- ever, said to have been received from Heaven for them to remain for the completion and dedication of the Temple. But the mob became impatient and attacked the city. The Legion held it at bay whilethe Temple was completed and dedicated. The baptistery was fes- tooned with flowers; the walls decorated with symbolic ornaments; lamps and torches glittered; prayers were uttered and chants were sung, and thus the dedication was completed. In an hour afterwards the portal was closed and an inscription placed upon it: "The House of the Lord! Built by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints. Holiness to the Lord ! " and the Saints were already making their way across the Mississippi. The last of the Mormons were, in September of the same year, driven from their homes at the point of the bayonet. Thirty months after its consecration the Temple was destroyed by fire at midnight. It was afterwards BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 291 partially restored, but in May, 1850, was cast into a heap of ruins by a tornado, which also laid the town low. The place fell into the hands of a colony of Icarian Socialists from Paris, under M. Cabet, who practised a sort of community life, but failed to attain that temporal prosperity which is not infrequently the result of such a system. Thus concludes all that is of interest in the history of Nauvoo, though it is but the beginning of the his- tory of the Mormons, who, driven from place to place, at last established themselves in the lap of the Rocky Mountains; a history full of romance and literally stranger than fiction, which has become interwoven with that of the Nation. So much of absorbing interest had been observed and commented upon at Dallas, Nauvoo and other points along the route from Burlington that we did not reach our evening destination until nearly eight o'clock. We were glad indeed to get out of the canoe and get into our hotel, where, after supper, I wrote up my log for the day, and gathered from the best author- ities I could find some information concerning Mont- rose, which is claimed by many of its citizens to be the oldest town in the State. It is on the west bank of the Mississippi, in Lee County, Iowa, forty miles south-east of Burlington, and twelve north of Keokuk. It is. connected with Nauvoo by ferry, and is reported to have a population of a little less than a thousand. Its people are engaged largely in the preparation of lumber. The Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy Railroad runs through it and has a station here. 292 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. 0)enttetl) LACLEDE HOUSE, At Keokuk, Iowa\ September Twenty-ninth. "Look out for the Keokuk Rapids!" was the last injunction we received before leaving Montrose in the morning. In fact this had been our usual warning for several days whenever we appeared on shore, until we had come to think some terrible ordeal awaited us. So far, we had found but three of Nature's obstructions in the descent of the river, which we had overcome by having recourse to a portage; these, it will be remem- bered, were the Kak-a-bik-ons y a few miles below Lake Itasca, Pokegama Falls, below Lake Winni- begoshish, and the Falls of Saint Anthony. Some kindly disposed persons suggested that we should have the canoe carried down to Keokuk at the foot of the rapids on a wagon ; while others advised a passage through the Government Ship Canal on the Iowa shore. Having run all the rapids of the Great River thus far, we were not inclined to make an exception of these if their descent was compatible with ordinary safety ; and further, we did not care to be subjected to the inconvenience and delay of locking through the canal, or the seemingly unnecessary trouble and ex- pense of a long portage. Inquiry at Montrose had elicited the following information : length of rapids, twelve miles; fall of water, twenty-four feet; occasional obstructions throughout entire length. On reaching the head of the rapids we encountered what we had long since learned to anticipate almost regularly at ten o'clock in the morning, namely, a BURLINGTON TO QU1NCY. 293 strong southerly wind, and in consequence a disturbed surface. So determined was the resistance offered by the wind that, instead of dashing down the rapids at " break-neck pace," as had been predicted by our friends, it was only by dint of a spirited use of our paddles that any perceptible progress was made in the canoe. There was greater danger of going to the bot- tom through the action of the waves than by contact with obstructions in the bed of the river. Paine, who Hsed the double paddle, became so thoroughly ex- hausted that we were compelled to disembark about three miles above Keokuk. After resting half an hour we again pushed off, finding the elements still in possession. A nother hour of persistent struggle against the high wind and a rough sea enabled us to reach the landing at Keokuk, between two and three o'clock, glad indeed to be out of range of the boisterous wind and rapids, which together fought us with such determina- tion that we made but twelve miles in four hours of the hardest work that we had up to this point recorded. The following tradition connected with the early history of the "Gate City" is generally accepted on the spot as true in outline if not in detail. Dr. Samuel C. Miner, of the United States army, came to Warsaw, Illinois, in the year 1820, and built himself a log shanty on the corner of Main street and the levee. He soon found that it was " not good for man to be alone," and formed an attachment for the daughter of an Indian chief, which in these rude times, and the absence of church or legal functionaries, was unsanctioned by any marriage ceremony, except, we may presume, the primitive one of mutual consent. This woman bore him five children. But an order came 294 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. at length from the War Department which suddenly dissolved the union by requiring all army officers and attaches to separate themselves from the Indian females with whom they were living in marital relations, and the doctor was removed to Puck-e-she-tuck, or " Foot of the Rapids," now known as Keokuk. Here he died of cholera in 1832, having been the first white resident of the future city. In the meantime the American Fur Company had established a trading-post, erecting several log-cabins on a spot now known by the eupho- nious title of " Rat Row," and large accessions to the settlement followed in a short time. The first, however, to settle here, after Dr. Miner, was Moses Still well and his family. Then the fur company and its employes came, after one of whom, Joshua Palean, a street in the city is named. The employes of the company all took Indian wives, and thereby rendered themselves very popular with the natives. The population grew rapidly, but the fur company, for reasons of its own, determined to remove. They were succeeded by Isaac R. Campbell and Samuel C. Muir, who occupied their buildings and continued their trade of supplying the Indians and whites with the necessaries of life. "Rat Row" at this period comprised nearly the whole of the settlement, and included hotel, church, court- house, grocery and saloon. Up to this time 1835 the settlement had been without a distinctive name, being known as " Foot of the Rapids," or its Indian equivalent, Puck-e-she-tnck. Finally, some steam- boat men proposed to name it Keokuk, after the friendly chief of the Sacs, and this name was ulti- mately adopted. In the spring of 1837 a village was laid out by BURLINGTON TO QU1NCY. 295 Dr. Isaac Galland, agent of the New York Land Com- pany, and was formally inaugurated and recorded as "Keokuk." In 1840 the main portion of Keoktik was a dense forest, and about a dozen log-cabins were sufficient for the settlers. In 1847 the census gave the population as six hundred and twenty. Keokuk was incorporated as a city in December of this year, and \yas governed by a mayor and aldermen. The first school was opened by a shoemaker, named Jesse Cray- ton, in 1833, who taught his few pupils and made shoes for the villagers, without detriment to his trade or his profession. Keokuk is called the "Gate City," from its position at the foot of the rapids and near the mouth of the Des Moines River. It is situated about two hundred miles above Saint Louis, and is about the same distance from Chicago; stands on a high and commanding site and is surrounded by a very productive country. The population at present is about twenty-two thousand. As evidence of its good sanitary condition, the bluffs in its vicinity were known, it is said, among the In- dians as the "Medicine Ground." The city possesses the requisites of a substantial prosperity, its location giving it many advantages. A fine iron bridge spans the Mississippi at this point, combining a railroad, wagon road and a foot bridge, which contributes, doubtless, to a considerable extent, to the trade of the city. Another substantial bridge crosses the Des Moines River, and adds largely to the business interests of Keokuk. The Government Canal is a grand work, by means of which the dangers arising from rocks and shoals in the rapids, that formerly interfered with navigation, are entirely obviated, and large vessels pass 296 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. through in perfect safety on their way up and down the river. The cost of the canal to the Government was nearly four million dollars. The largest steam- boats find ample room at Keokuk for loading and dis- charging freight ancf passengers. A great inducement to manufacturers to locate here is the valuable water- power created by the Des Moines rapids, and there can be little doubt that in due time this force will be taken ad vantage of and Keokuk become an important manu- facturing centre. One of the national cemeteries is located in this city. It is beautifully laid out and well kept, with marble headstones on which are inscribed the names of the soldiers who died during the Civil War in the Keokuk Government Hospital. Extensive waterworks and an effective fire-department have been provided since 1875. There are over ten miles of water-mains, and fifteen miles of macadamized streets, with good side-walks sheltered from the sun in summer by the foliage of countless shade-trees. The city contains a free public library with nine hundred volumes, for which a very handsome building has been provided. There are over twenty churches of all denominations, and eight school buildings with an enrolment of over two thousand pupils. There is also a well-appointed street railway, and a beautiful park has been opened for the exercise and recreation of the citizens. Another feature of Keokuk is an artesian well, throwing a barrel of water a minute, the exterior of which is highly ornamental. The Buckeye Foundry and Machine-Shops were established here in 1849, and employ a considerable number of men in the manufacture of steam-engines, BURLINGTON TO QUINCY. 297 mill machinery, all kinds of castings, car-wheels, etc. A plow factory, also employing many hands, and a barb-wire factory, have been located here since 1875, and other manufactures are destined to follow in their wake. The situation of Keokuk at the foot of the rapids has made her a port of considerable importance for steamboats, which carry large quantities of grain and other freight every season to Saint Louis and southern ports on the river. Steamers touch here daily, some bound through from Saint Paul, and others stopping at Keokuk to discharge and take on freight and pas- sengers. The fair-grounds are located at a convenient distance from the city, are well inclosed and contain a fine-art hall, mechanical and agricultural halls, amphi- theatre, dining-rooms and every convenience for the exhibition of stock. Seven railroads centre here, thus offering every facility for transport and travel. Prominent among the educational institutions of the city is the College of Physicians and Surgeons, of the practical success of which the citizens have much to say. The building is a fine structure and occupies a central position in the city. The oldest daily newspaper in Keokuk, The Gate City, is an enterprising and wide- awake sheet. The daily Constitution, the leading Democratic organ, has a large and increasing circu- lation. Keokuk, though small in comparison with some cities on the river, has broad thoroughfares, handsome and substantial buildings, occupies a beautiful locality, and her citizens are justly proud of the progress she has made since the day of Dr. Samuel C. Miner and his Indian princess. 17 298 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. PRIVATE RESIDENCE At Gregory, Missouri, September Thirtieth. Wind up stream, with occasional showers in the morning. Remained at Keokuk until four o'clock in the afternoon, when, finding the weather favorable, we floated down to the mouth of the DCS Moines River. This is the largest river of Iowa, and is formed by the junction of two branches, known as the East and West Forks, which rise in a chain of small lakes in south- western Minnesota, and, flowing in a south-easterly direction, unite in Humboldt County, Iowa. From this junction it flows south-east, through the central portion of the State, to its confluence with the Missis- sippi, four miles below Keokuk. In its course of three hundred miles the Des Moines drains ten thousand square miles in Iowa, passing through an undulating, fertile region, interspersed with tracts of prairie, rich in coal and abounding in timber. Many flourishing towns have sprung up along its banks, among which is Des Moines, the capital of the State. The principal tribu- taries from the west are the North, Middle, South and Racoon rivers. The largest eastern branch is the Boone, which rises in Hancock County. Our object in moving from Keokuk at so late an hour was not to insure better accommodations, but to sleep on the soil of Missouri, place another State at our backs, and subtract at least twelve miles from the balance of our seaward journey. We found nothing at Gregory worthy of attention except a supper, lodg- ing and breakfast, if we omit numberless mud-holes, caused by overflows of the river. BURLING TOtf TO QUINCY. 299 TREMOKT HOUSE, Quincy, Illinois, October First. We shook the mud of Gregory from our feet at eight o'clock in the morning, and stepping into the Alice started for Quincy. Weather warm and cloudy, with mercury at 85 in the shade. Met several steamers which were evidently on their way to points on the Upper Mississippi. A large flock of pelicans were seen a few miles below Gregory, presenting a wall of white as they stood, in line on the beach a few hun- dred yards in advance of us. Paine fired at them with his revolver, but without apparent effect, except to frighten them away. Went ashore at Canton, Missouri. This town is twenty-two miles below Keokuk, and one hundred and ninety-one above Saint Louis. It has a national bank, a weekly paper, several flour and lumber mills, and claims a population of between three and four thousand. On returning to the landing we found a large crowd admiring our canoe. One said: "Ain't she a daisy ? " Another remarked : " I reckon that trick cost a heap of money ! " A speculative bystander inquired: "How much will you take for her, colonel?" These were the first provincialisms we had noted since leaving the Chippewa country, and we were not a little amused by their oddity. Dined at Lagrange, a pleasant village of Lewis County, Missouri, eight miles below Canton and twelve above Quincy. Here we found a college, a savings' bank and a weekly paper. 300 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Quincy, the "Gem City" and the capital of Adams County, is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi. It stands on a limestone bluff, one hundred and twenty- five feet above the river, commanding a most pic- turesque view of the country for several miles, and has one of the best steamboat-landings to be found on the Mississippi. It is one hundred and sixty miles above Saint Louis, and ninety-five west of Springfield, the capital of the State. Quincy saw the first white settler establish himself as a trader with the Indians in the year 1822. It was not long before others followed, and in 1825 a town was laid out, which in 1834 had attained sufficient growth and importance to be incorporated. It received its charter as a city in 1839, and now ranks in popula- tion as the second city in the State of Illinois. It is regularly laid out and well built, paved, watered and lighted ; the business blocks being chiefly of brick, well designed and substantial. The city has an exten- sive river traffic; a splendid railroad bridge across the Mississippi ; four well proportioned parks, providing convenient breath ing- pi aces for the citizens, who crowd them in the warm summer evenings; a fine fair-ground, covering about eighty acres ; many elegant public and private edifices; numerous manufactories, employing about four thousand operatives, and producing an- nually $10,000,000 worth of goods. Lines of horse- cars traverse the leading thoroughfares. Many of the private residences are spacious, elegantly and taste- fully planned, and surrounded by well-kept and very beautiful grounds. Quincy has thirty churches; four daily, one tri-weekly and seven weekly papers of dif- ferent shades of politics. Two hospitals and three BURLINGTON TO QUISCY. 301 asylums are among the benevolent institutions pro- vided by the city for those in need of treatment. It has a medical college of great value to the people; several academies and seminaries, besides the public schools, which are nine in number, including a high school, a grammar school, and intermediate and pri- mary departments; the number of pupils in these being about three thousand. A good city library is also provided for the intellectual enjoyment of the citizens. Two national and two other banks; a fine grain ele- vator, and a large business in pork-packing and ice- collecting; thirteen carriage and wagon manufactories; eight iron foundries; eleven brickyards and eleven flour-mills attest the commercial and manufacturing importance of the "Gem City;" which has also an efficient police force and a well-organized fire depart- ment. The present population of Quincy is estimated at over thirty thousand. ..-\;/ _.,;; CHAPTER XXIV. QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. PRIVATE RESIDENCE, Ha nnibal, Mi saouri t October 2-4, 1881. *T was the custom of the voyage to spend our Sundays in town, but having ar- ranged to meet my wife at Hannibal we were again on the water at ten o'clock in the morning, and, at the end of three hours, had reached our destination, twenty miles below Quincy. At Hannibal we remained three days in the enjoyment of some approach to do- mestic comfort. The change was a welcome relief to both Paine and myself, and it was not without some reluctance we renewed our acquaintance with the Alice. This staunch little craft had, however, carried us thus far in safety, and, with confidence in her virtues be- gotten of experience, we again committed ourselves to her care. Hannibal is a busy commercial city in Marion County, Missouri, on the west side of the river, one hundred and forty-four miles above Saint Louis. Its favorable position and extensive railroad connections have contributed largely to its rapid growth and pros- perity, the latter being clearly indicated by the large (302) QUINCY TO SAINT LOUTS. 303 number of fine residences on the surrounding slopes. The Mississippi is crossed here by a splendid iron bridge adapted for ra^ _____ , ,,agon and passenger travel. The city is rapidly increasing in extent and importance, and is the supply-point for large quantities of tobacco, pork, flour and other produce. The lead-' ing trade is in lumber with other parts of the State, as well as with Kansas and Texas, and it claims to be one of the most extensive lumber markets on . the western bank of the Mississippi. The manufactories include iron foundries, car-shops, machine-shops, sev- eral large tobacco works, beef-curing establishments, saw-mills, flour-mills, and the lumber yards are fifteen in number. Coal and limestone abound in the vicinity, and the manufacture of lime is a prominent industry. It possesses a city hall, a Catholic seminary, several good public schools, including a high school, and daily and weekly newspapers. Hannibal College was estab- lished in 1868, under the auspices of the Methodist Episcopal Church, South, and is in a flourishing con- dition. The present population is about fifteen thou- sand, and everything about the city wears the aspect of industrial prosperity. GRANT HOTEI,, Cincinnati, Illinoig, October Fifth. I should fail to interest the reader were I to attempt a description of some of the villages and hamlets passed in the descent of the Mississippi. Many of these places do not possess even a local interest, and the eye soon wearies of tlie air of desolation and monotony that 304 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. characterizes the majority of them. The guide-books dispose of these doubtful landmarks with a little dry detail, and rarely recommend the tourist to allot them the compliment of a passing notice. One peculiarity, however, may be noted, and that is the ambition displayed by the pioneers of civilization in the West in naming villages and hamlets, which, with few exceptions, are still of little importance, after the great cities of the Eastern States, and also of foreign lands. These names, which occupy such prominence on the maps, excite the curiosity of the traveler, and when the reality dawns upon him, and he scans their narrow limits, their commonplace architecture and usually unattractive surroundings, it has a depressing effect, and he wonders, after all, if there is anything in a name. We find upon the map the name and indica- tion of a city, but it proves on acquaintance to be the most uninteresting of hamlets, though bearing so re- spectable a name as that of " Cincinnati." CAP Au GRIS HOUSE, Cap Au Gris, Missouri, October Sixth. We had resolved upon an early start from " Cincin- nati," but from six to eight o'clock everything was enveloped in a dense fog, which gradually disappeared as the day advanced. At nine o'clock we pushed off and found the weather favorable, as is usually the case on the river after heavy fogs. Disembarked at Clarksville, on the west or Missouri side, where we had an excellent dinner at a restaurant, and then walked through the town, which we discovered QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. 3Q5 to be a place of some enterprise. It is forty miles be- low Hannibal, and one hundred and two above Saint Louis. We noticed a bank, several flour-mills, and other factories. Hamburg, Illinois, and Falmouth, Missouri, were seen, but from their appearance from the river we con- cluded they were great only in name. It had been our aim to make a landing by seven o'clock, but becoming somewhat confused by a cluster of islands a few miles below Falmouth, knowing noth- ing of the river or country in our front, and moreover, completely enshrouded in darkness, we were, for nearly two hours, in a most unenviable position. To cap the climax, as we were passing the last island of the group, a large steamer was sighted coming up the river at a high rate of speed. This circumstance gave us con- siderable anxiety for a time, as we were unable to di- vine whether her course would be to the right or left of the island. Dropping the paddles across the canoe, we carefully watched the movements of this " midnight apparition," as she came tearing along unmindful of the peril to which she exposed two anxious canoeists but a few yards ahead of her. A flash of lightning revealed to us that our present adversary was none other than our old up-river acquaintance, the Gem City, presumably on her way to Saint Paul. It was a beau- tiful thing this river giant with her red, green and electric lights beautiful to look upon, though, under the circumstances of our relative positions, not particu- larly inspiriting to the* captain and crew of the Alice, who were greatly relieved when they found themselves rocking in the wake of her huge sidewheels. It was now after eight o'clock, and the thought 306 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. uppermost in our minds was where we could effect a landing and secure lodging, for the current was so strong and the banks so steep and crumbling in this quarter as to render disembarking exceedingly precarious. At last a glimmering light was discovered, apparently at a farm-house on the west bank, which we straight- way attempted to reach, but making a miscalculation as to the strength of the current, which was very power- ful, were carried a considerable distance below, striking the shore a few yards above another farm-house on the same side. Everything now seemed favorable, but it was only an illusion. On approaching the house we were met by a rough-looking man and two or three boys, accompanied by several dogs the man armed with a shot-gun. Our sudden and unseasonable ap- pearance on his premises had aroused suspicion, and we were bluntly told that he had no accommodation for "river tramps." We endeavored to explain, but to no purpose. It appeared that a party of highway- men had been captured some days previously on the islands opposite his farm, and this circumstance un- doubtedly prompted him in repeating that he had no lodgings for strangers. Money was of course tendered, but refused. The only advantage gained from this interview was the cheering information that Cap Au Gris was fifteen miles below ! Returning to our canoe we pushed off, resolved upon another effort to pass the remainder of the night on shore. Soon a light was seen in a bend on the Illinois side; crossing the river, we found an easy landing and hastened up to farm-house " No. 3." Here we found more men and fewer dogs than on the Missouri side; but after some minutes' parley it became evident that QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. 3Q7 our mission was fruitless, for the same reason appar- ently as that which had influenced our Missouri friend, and we again returned reluctantly to our canoe, de- termined to keep a sharp look-out for Cap Au Gris, which, to our great joy, was reached a few minutes be- fore twelve o'clock. We will not say anything of Cap Au Gris that is likely to make its enlightened citizens feel uncomfort- able. We were glad to reach its hospitable shores after several hours of peril and to receive a welcome at its leading " hotel." Let us simply say, therefore, that it stands on the banks of the mighty Mississippi. It is to be hoped it will always stand there. But it occurred to the writer from the rapidity with which the river is now cutting down its banks that its scattered remains will soon be found not far from the Gulf of Mexico. Broemj)- -cfg!)tl) Dcrg. EMPIRE HOUSE, Alton, Illinois, October Seventh, Although we did not retire to our rooms at Cap Au Gris until after midnight, we had an early break- fast, for there was much to be seen and noted in our journey to Alton. The month of the Illinois River was passed between ten and eleven o'clock. We had very naturally looked forward to the confluence of this tributary with the Mississippi as one of the events in our voyage; for it was here, two hundred years ago, that the illustrious La Salle and his heroic followers first beheld the Great River, in which their highest hopes for New France were centred. DOWN THE GREAT LIVER. The Illinois, whose entire course is through the State of the same name, is formed by the junction of the Kankakee and Des Plaines rivers in Grundy County, about forty-five miles south-west of Lake Michigan. It passes Peoria, the most important city on its banks; Pekin, Havana, Beardstown, and Naples; and enters the Mississippi between Calhoun and Jersey counties, twenty miles above the mouth of the Missouri. It is about five hundred miles long, and is navigable for two hundred and forty-five. Water communication between the great lakes and the Mississippi is afforded by a canal, reaching from the mouth of the Vermilion, a tributary of the Illinois in La Salle County where the latter is obstructed by rapids to Chicago, a distance of ninety-six miles. Here it may be stated that the name of this State was formerly bestowed upon all that vast tract of country which lies north and west of the Ohio, and was derived from the Illini, or Illinois, a tribe which possessed the country on the banks of the Illinois River. The name is said by Hennepin to signify a full-grown man. The first settlements within the present limits of the State were made by the French. La Salle set out from Canada on his adventurous en- terprise in search of the Mississippi in the year 1680, in company with Father Hennepin, and descended the Illinois River from its source. He then returned to Canada, and in 1682 came back with a number of volunteers and founded the settlement of Kaskaskia now included in Randolph County and others. At the commencement of the eighteenth century these settlements are said to have been in a flourishing condition. QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. 3Q9 At tlie conclusion of hostilities between the French and English in 1763, the Illinois country, with Canada, was ceded to the British Government. In 1778, during the Revolutionary War, the Virginia militia made an incursion through the Indian country, and subjugated Kaskaskia and other posts of the Brit- ish on the Mississippi ; and during the same year the Legislature of Virginia organized a county in this re- mote region, called "Illinois." This territory was afterwards ceded by Virginia to the United States. In 1800, it was included within the limits of Indiana Territory, and at that time the country that forms the present State of Illinois contained about three thou- sand inhabitants. After the year 1800, the popula- tion increased rapidly from immigration. In 1809 a territorial government was established, and the popu- lation the following year amounted to over twelve thousand. In 1818, Illinois was received into the Union as the twenty -second State. Nature has given this great State immense advan- tages for inland navigation. On its northern borders it has, for some distance, the waters of Lake Michigan. On its north-west frontier, it has Rock River, a tributary of the Mississippi. On its whole western front it is washed by the Mississippi, and on its southern by the Ohio. On the east it is bounded by the Wabash. Through its centre winds, in one di- rection, the Illinois; and in another direction the Kas- kaskia flows through the State ; and such is the inter- section of Illinois by its boatable streams, that no town in it is far from a point of river communication either with Lake Michigan, the Mississippi, the Ohio, or the Illinois. The Mississippi forms the western 310 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. boundary of the State through its whole length from north to south, a distance, by the curvatures of the stream, of not far from six hundred miles. From the mouth of the Illinois, whose waters seemed to make little impression on the majestic river on which we were floating, we paddled down to the city of Alton, a distance of twenty miles. Here we found convenient accommodation while writing up our notes of the journey. In the year 1807, some Frenchmen from Saint Louis, erected a small building on this spot. They traded with the Indians, and the solitary building combined store, office and residence for these pioneers during several months of succeeding years, until, in 1817, the site was selected for a town, and named Alton. It is situated on the left bank of the Missis- sippi about twenty-four miles above Saint Louis. In 1870, the population of Alton comprised eight thou- sand eight hundred and sixty-five souls, and at pres- ent is about ten thousand. The city is long and nar- row^its length along the river being nearly three miles and its average breadth only one mile and a half. Alton is divided about its centre by a stream called Piasa Creek, which has its source in several springs within the city limits. This stream is arched over and is used as a main sewer. The chief seats of business are found in the valley of this stream, and in the bottom lands along the Mis- sissippi. Irregular bluffs, the highest being about two hundred and twenty-five feet above the river, raise their heads on each side of the valley, and give a picturesque appearance to the scenery. The city is built on the limestone rock, which is honeycombed with numerous QUINCY TO SAINT LOUIS. 311 caves, and along the banks of the river the rock forms perpendicular bluffs. A rich farming country surrounds Alton. Three rail- roads and the river connect it with all parts of the coun- try, and manufactories of various kinds are abundant. Among these are iron-foundries, woolen-mills, flour- mills, glass-works, a castor-oil-mill, planing-mills, several lumber-yards and steam saw-mills, and agri- cultural implement factories. Lime and building stone of a very superior quality, are largely exported from Alton. A steam-ferry conveys passengers and freight to the opposite shore of the river. A large Roman Catholic Cathedral and several churches of the various denominations of Protestants are con- spicuous objects throughout the city. The State Pen- itentiary, established here in 1827, was removed some years since to Joliet. The buildings are still in ex- istence and were utilized during the Rebellion as a government prison of war. CHAPTER XXV. THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. Trip from Alton In and Around the City. much has been said by early and recent travelers concerning the turbulent char- acter of the Missouri, the greatest tribu- tary of the Father of Waters, that he who approaches its mouth for the first time in a frail skiff or canoe expects, if not well on his guard, to be sent whirling to the bottom his effects mingling with the muddy current of the river. Imagine, therefore, our surprise, on reaching the confluence of these giants of running streams, to see them peacefully unite their mighty floods, creating scarcely a ripple on the surface ! One cannot fail to be impressed with the majesty of the Mississippi as he observes the ease and grace with which she receives her numberless tributaries, many of them the most important rivers of North America. So quietly do some of these rivers enter the parent stream that the voyager might often pass their point of junc- tion without realizing that a new accession had been made to the great body on which he is floating. The Missouri, as we have said, is the largest and most important of the 'many tributaries of the Missis- sippi. It takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains, in (312) THREE DAYS AT SAIXT LOUIS. 3 1 3 the State of Oregon, over three thousand miles from its mouth. The springs which give rise to the Mis- souri are less than a mile distant from the head-waters of the Columbia, which flows west into the Pacific Ocean. The Yellowstone River is probably the largest tributary of the Missouri, and enters it from the south- west. At its junction with the Missouri it is eight hundred yards wide. Steamboats ascend the Missouri to the Yellowstone, a distance of over eighteen hundred miles. The Great Falls of the Missouri are five hun- dred and twenty-one miles from its source. The river descends by a succession of rapids and falls three hun- dred and fifty-seven feet in about sixteen miles. The lower and greatest fall has a perpendicular pitch of eighty-seven feet. The principal tributaries, next to the Yellowstone, are the Little Missouri, Big Chey- enne, White Earth, Niobrara, Nebraska, Kansas and Osage, on the right ; and the Milk, Dakota, Big Sioux, Little Sioux and Grand, on the left. These tributaries are each navigable from one hundred to eight hun- dred miles. The Missouri throughout the greater part of its course is a rapid and muddy stream. It is over half a mile wide at its mouth, and through the greater part of its course it is wider. In the winter it is frozen so hard as to be safely crossed by loaded wagons for a number of weeks. Missouri was visited by Marquette and Joliet in 1673, and the first settlement was made at Saint Genevieve, twelve miles above Chester, in 1755. The territory was purchased by the United States from the French, in 1803, as a part of Louisiana. In 1821, Missouri was admitted into the Union as the twenty- fourth State. Early iu the Civil War, Governor 18 314 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Jackson issued a proclamation declaring the State out of the Union. Major-General Freemont declared martial law throughout the State August thirty-first, 1861. In the early part of 1862, the Confederate troops held half of Missouri. The Missourians furnished 108,773 soldiers to the Federal side during the war. We found the current of the Mississippi below the mouth of the Missouri much stronger than we had observed it to be since passing the Keokuk Rapids. Thus favored we made swift progress toward Saint Louis, touching the west bank in the vicinity of the Union Stock Yards, near the northern limits of the city, at eleven o'clock. Here we dined at the Union Stock Yards' Hotel, afterward visiting the yards and talking with stock dealers. At three o'clock we were again in our canoe floating along the city front. About a mile below the stock yards we were sig- naled from the shore and on pulling in discovered that a number of friends and acquaintances, together with several members of city boat-clubs, including the " Modocs," " Excelsiors," and " Westerns," had come up the river to escort us down to the club-rooms of the " Excelsiors," where we were surprised and grati- fied to learn that arrangements had been made to re- ceive and entertain us. It appeared that much interest had been awakened through the press of Saint Louis, which had followed us to the source of the Mississippi and back to our last launch at Alton. As we passed the shipping moored to the wharves, whistles were blown, and the crowds on shore voiced a hearty welcome and showed a kindly interest in our undertaking, which we had not looked for and which, for a time, quite bewildered us. THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 317 In reaching the "Excelsior" boat-house landing at the foot of Anna Street, we were met by representa- tives of the press, who were in pursuit of information bearing upon our voyage and purpose. Desiring quiet, and an opportunity to see and study the varied industries of this great city, we avoided hotels, and sought the seclusion of a private residence, where we remained three days, and during this in- terval visited nearly every object of interest to the tourist. Saint Louis is to-day the great metropolis of the Mississippi Valley, while its history takes us back to the early days of romance and discovery. Both Mar- quette and Joliet explored the Mississippi past the city's present site, and were followed by Hennepin and Dugay. La Salle in 1682 traversed the same route. In 1764, Pierre Auguste Laclede ascended the river from New Orleans and, being a merchant, established a trading-post on the site of the present city, and erected a few wooden huts near the present Old Market Square. From this point lead ore and wild game were shipped to New Orleans, and soon after, wheat, raised in Illinois, was added to the commerce. The furs were generally shipped to Canada and thence to Europe ; and it required four years to make the returns. In 1776, Pierre Laclede Liguest received a grant of land for the city of Saint Louis, so named in honor of King Louis XIV. of France. Saint Louis, in com- mon with the rest of Louisiana, had passed under Spanish rule in 1769, the Spaniards having taken pos- session a year later. In 1780, the little frontier town was attacked by fifteen hundred Indians and forty British, and suffered severely at their hands. In 1785, 318 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. the Mississippi rose to an unprecedented height and, sweeping over its banks, then unprotected by a levee, did great damage and threatened to destroy the town. Up to the beginning of the present century, the in- habitants of this small city in the wilderness were principally French a happy, careless people, who allowed the burdens of to-day to sit as lightly as pos- sible upon them, and troubled themselves little about those of to-morrow. Yet, situated as they were, many hundreds of miles from the civilization of both the East and the South, and surrounded by the hostile bands of Indians, sometimes with starvation staring them in the face, they endured incredible hardships and suffer- ings, the memory of which is still retained in the names of some of the older streets. In 1790, Dr. Andrew Todd was authorized by the Spanish government to prosecute an extensive trade with the Indians of the Missouri River, and made his headquarters at Saint Louis. In 1803, Louisiana having been ceded to the United States, Saint Louis came under the control of this country. In 1808, the Missouri Fur Company was founded with a capi- tal of $40,000. One year later, John Jacob Astor and Company set out from Saint Louis on an expedition to the Pacific Ocean ; and ten years laterJ;he company established a commercial house in the city, which was mainly the source of Astor's early wealth. The Mis- souri Fur Company having dissolved, another fur company was organized in 1819. In 1823, General Ashley entered from Saint Louis into the Indian trade of the Rocky Mountains, and discovered the famous South Pass to the Pacific. At the time of General Ashley the fur business was a very perilous THREE DAYS AT SALXT LOUIS. 319 one. Two-fifths of the men perished, some being drowned, others killed by hostile Indians, and still others devoured by white bears. Yet adventurous men were not lacking to take their chances in the pur- suit. . This branch of commerce, however, enriched the little town and gave her a prosperous foundation, upon which thefortuitouscircumstancesof the present century favored the building up of a great and prosperous city. During the early period of her history, French was almost the only language spoken in Saint Louis, and the business men were Frenchmen. The farmers and boatmen were also French, and agriculture and navi- gation were carried on according to French systems. The inhabitants of the town cultivated, in common, a large field to the west of the city, which supplied them, with wheat and corn for bread. They had also numer- ous and excellent stock. In 1807, Saint Louis was as much a French village in population and general ap- pearance as though located in France. The following is a description of the dress of the people given by a historian : " The dress of the people, male and female, was for- eign to an American. The voyageurs, courieurs du, bois, and the farmers, scarcely ever wore a hat, but tied around their heads a cotton handkerchief. The white blanket-coat was the general wear in winter, and in summer a cotton white shirt, or red woolen one, was about all the garment the masses wore, except panta- loons of buckskin in the winter, and colored cotton in the summer. In the cold weather the masses generally wore moccasins on their feet, and in summer they used the same on their bare feet. It was common f r the males to wear a belt around them, winter and summer, 320 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. wherein was fastened a pouch, generally made of seal- skin with the hair on, containing tobacco, a pipe, and a flint and steel ; so that they could enjoy the genial luxury of smoking at any place or time. This habit was almost universal in olden times with the French male population. In the belt was also suspended a butcher-knife, and often a small hatchet. Thus equipped, a Frenchman, with a clay pipe in his mouth, was prepared for the Rocky Mountains, or a hunt in the neighborhood for raccoons and opossums." The merchants and wealthy classes dressed well, and deported themselves like gentlemen. The women were always dressed neatly and tastefully, and paid careful attention to their appearance. They did not labor in the fields. The dwellings were built after French models, and barns stood thick on the present Third street. These barns were very simply built by planting cedar posts in the ground, filling up the intervals with puncheons of split cottonwood, and thatching the roofs. In these barns were stowed away the wheat from the common field, and hay cut from the prairie. Small round towers constructed of sods, extended quite around the town, and were the remains of forti- fications erected diupng the Spanish dominion to defend it against the English and the Indians. A bluff of perpendicular rock, twenty or thirty feet high, ex- tended from the foot of Chestnut Street up the river bank and was not removed until a considerably later period. The first ferry, which was established in 1 796, was composed of rude canoes, known as dug-outs. When horses and wagons crossed, two large canoes were lashed together, and a platform placed on them. THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 321 At this period the population was exclusively Catholic, that church having from its earliest history planted itself in the town. In 1818, the first Baptist Church was built, and in 1820, the first Methodist organized and the first Episcopal Church was erected. In 1812, the first session of the State legislature was convened at Saint Louis. The city at the beginning of the century depended almost wholly upon the fur trade; but the Saint Louis of to-day profits by the vast mineral and agricultural resources of the State, and by the commerce of the Valley of the Mississippi, which is now a compara- tively densely populated region. When La Motte, the royal governor of Louisiana appointed in 1712, was ordered to assist the agents of Crozat in establish- ing trading-posts on the Mississippi and its tributaries, he wrote back to the ministry : " I have seen Crozat's instructions to his agents. I thought they issued from a lunatic-asylum, and there appeared to me to be no more sense in them than in the Apocalypse. What! is it expected that for any commercial or profit- able purpose boats will ever be able to run up the Mississippi into the Wabash, the Missouri or the Red River? One might as well try to bite a slice off the moon ! Not only are those rivers as rapid as the Rhone, but in their crooked course they imitate to per- fection a snake's undulations. Hence, for instance, on every turn of the Mississippi it would be neces-ary to wait for a change of wind, if wind could be had ; be- cause this river is so lined with thick woods, that very little wind has access to its bed." Could it be possible for the shade of La Motte to look down upon his late domain from his celestial 322 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. abode, he would see many tilings to astonish his ghostly excellency, all accomplished in little more than a century and a half. He would see many great and populous cities on the hanks of the Great River, and myriads of water craft of every description, not only proceeding down the river aided by the current, but strange vessels, unlike anything of his time, puffing smoke and steam out of their nostrils, proceeding directly up the stream, regardless of either wind or current, with a speed and by a means of locomotion which would seem to him, if lie possessed only his eighteenth century knowledge, allied to sorcery. The adaptation of steam as a motive power, has made Saint Louis what it is the great inland city of the continent. Without it, she may have sent her loads of furs, metals, and grain down the river to New Orleans, but would have received little in return. In 1817, the first steamboat, the General Pike stopped at her landing. Since that time, her progress has been rapid and certain. In 1811, her population was but fourteen hundred. In 1850 it had increased to nearly seventy-five thousand ; while in 1 880 it had more than quadrupled, being set down by the census at 350,522. Now, a thousand steamboats speed up and down the Father of Waters and his tributaries, to bring produce to be reshipped from this port. The State of Missouri is very rich in minerals. Lead, kaolin, iron, copper, zinc, cobalt, nickel and magnesia, all furnish material to keep busy the im- mense and numerous factories which have been estab- lished in Saint Louis, and furnish employment to about fifty thousand workmen. A large portion of Pilot Knob, which is five hundred and eighty-one feet THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 323 high, is pure iron ore, and it is estimated that a single stratum will furnish nearly ten millions of tons, while there are several strata above, and at least one below. The iron ore in the region of Pilot Knob and Iron Mountain it is computed will furnish a million tons per year of manufactured iron for the next two hun- dred years. And most of the iron will be manufac- tured, or at least shipped from Saint Louis, furnishing an immense business and a proportionately large source of revenue. The limestone, sandstone, and granite of the State also furnish excellent building material for the houses and blocks of the city. The agricultural resources of Missouri are also very great. The State furnishes large numbers of hogs and cattle, which are slaughtered and disposed of in Saint Louis; while breadstuff's, provisions, hay and lumber are constantly being received and shipped. It is one of the first cities in the Union in the manufacture of flour, the wheat being grown on the fertile prairie land of Missouri, Iowa and Kansas. Saint Louis presents a fine appearance from the river. First, there is upon the river itself a city of steamboats, tugboats and flatboats, ranged in front of the levee, which rises high above low-water mark, and higher than all but the highest high-water mark, reached, perhaps, but once in a century. The great Saint Louis Bridge proudly stretches across- the Mis- sissippi, making three broad leaps in crossing. The centre span is five hundred and twenty feet in width ; and the two side ones are each five hundred feet, the arches rising sixty feet, and permitting the largest steamboats to pass under them. This bridge was de- signed by Captain James B. Eads, now famous as the 324 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. builder of the Jetties at the mouth of the Mississippi; was begun in 1869 and completed in 1874. It con- tains two tiers of tracks, the lower tier being for steam-cars and the upper one for horse-cars, carriages and pedestrians. On the right bank of the river rises, terrace after terrace, the Saint Louis of to-day, differing no less in characteristics and people than in size from the Saint Louis of three-quarters of a century ago. Front street is one hundred feet wide, and extends along the levee. The streets running north and south are numbered west of Front street; while those running east and west, and terminating at the river, have arbitrary names given them. Front, Second, and Main streets are the principal wholesale avenues, and are lined with im- mense warehouses. Fourth street contains the most fashionable retail stores, and is the favorite prome- nade. The longest street is Grand avenue, running for twelve miles parallel with the river. Thirty years ago Carondelet was a separate suburb on the river bank, to the southward, but is now included in the city, the entire intervening space having been built upon. Washington and Chanteau avenues, Lucas Place, and Pine, Olive and Locust streets contain the finest residences. The Missouri Gazette was the first newspaper estab- lished west of the Mississippi, having made its appear- ance in July, 1808, its publisher being Joseph Charles. This was the beginning of the Missouri Republican, of which Mr. Charles was one of the proprietors up to the time of his death. The second weekly appeared in 1815. There are now more than sixty papers issued in the city, including dailies, weeklies and monthlies. THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 325 They are among the most ably conducted and widely circulated in the country. The Post Dispatch is one of the youngest of these, and at the same time one of the brightest and most enterprising. It prints three dif- ferent editions, and is prompt in securing the freshest and most readable news. The Missouri Republican is not only the oldest paper of the city, but one of the leading papers of the country. It represents the in- terests of the Democratic party and has a very large circulation. The Globe-Democrat is Republican in its politics and a power in the party. The Journal and Times are both enterprising daily papers, and there are, in addition, two German dailies, three German weeklies, one French weekly, and one Spanish news- paper, published monthly. Agricultural, literary, re- ligious, commercial, legal, medical and educational publications complete the list. The Catholic church, although it has lost, to a cer- tain extent, the supremacy which it first held over the city, is still represented by a large class of the popula- tion, and has a number of sacred buildings, while there are numerous charitable institutions under its control. The Cathedral, in Walnut street, between Second and Third, is one of the finest ecclesiastical structures in the city. Its lofty spire contains a fine chime of bells. The Sisters of Charity conduct a hospital which has accommodation for four hundred patients ; and there are also a Deaf and Dumb Asylum, and a Convent of the Good Shepherd for the reformation of fallen women, in charge of Catholic orders. Germans form a goodly proportion of the population of the city, and are, for the most part, orderly, indus- trious and intelligent. During the war of the Rebel- 326 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. lion they proved themselves thoroughly loyal to the National Government and secured Saint Louis and, through it, the State from the evils of secession ; and in this city the first military movements of the West were made. The population is largely made up of immigrants from Pennsylvania and New Jersey, these States being on the same parallels as Missouri, although latterly other sections of the country have become represented. No one who visits Saint Louis should fail to see Shaw's Garden, one of the most interesting parks in the country, embracing an area of one hundred and four acres. It is owned and has been planned and perfected by Mr. Shaw, who intends to present it to the city. Ten acres are devoted to flowers and shrub- bery of every known variety, a number of greenhouses sheltering tropical plants and other exotics. Fruits of every kind occupy six acres, and twenty-five acres furnish ample space for every kind of ornamental tree which will grow in this latitude. The labyrinth leads through a maze of hedge-bordered pathways to a sum- mer-house in the centre; and there are a museum and a botanical library in connection with the Garden. During the week the grounds are open to the public, but on Sunday only strangers are admitted, who must pro- cure tickets for the privilege. The annual exhibition of the Agricultural and Me- chanical Association of Saint Louis is the great feature of the city. Fair week, which is usually the first week in October, sees the city filled with strangers from every section of the State. The fair-grounds em- brace eighty-five acres, and are three miles north-west of the Court House. THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 327 Saint Louis has two thousand acres of public parks, admirably laid out and adorned with fountains and statuary. Forest Park embraces one thousand three hundred and fifty acres, and is four miles west of the Court House. The Des Perces River runs through it, and it is, to a great extent, still covered with the primi- tive forest. Northern Park, containing one hundred and eighty acres, is on the bluffs north of the city. There are a number of smaller parks or squares scat- tered through the city, prominent among which is Lafayette Park, containing bronze statues of Washing- ton and Benton. The memory of Benton is greatly honored, Saint Louis being very proud of its citizen, the statesman who for so many years called this city his home. Saint Louis is a handsome city, architecturally speaking, though there is a lack of that grand archi- tectural display which is found in some of our western cities. The buildings are chiefly of stone or brick, and are, many of them, fine, though, as a whole, they are substantially rather than showily built. The finest public edifice is the Court House, occupying an entire square, and built of Genevieve limestone. It is in the form of a Greek cross, surmounted by a lofty iron dome, and each front is adorned with a handsome Doric portico. The Chamber of Commerce is the finest building of the kind in the country. It is built of gray limestone, is two hundred and fifty-five feet long, one hundred and eighty-seven feet wide, and five stories in height. The new Custom House and Post Office, at the corner of Eighth and Olive streets, is a very handsome edifice, occupying an entire block. It is built of Maine granite, with rose-colored granite 328 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. trimmings, and its cost was about five million dollars. The Republican building, at the corner of Third and Chestnut streets, is one of the finest and most com- pletely appointed newspaper offices in the country, and speaks well for the financial success of that news- paper. The city contains many handsome churches, among which the Jewish Temple, at the corner of Seventeenth and Pine streets, is one of the most con- spicuous for its beauty. The Elevator, at the foot of Ashley street, is one of the largest in the country, having a capacity of two millions of bushels. The levee is one of the most interesting features of the city. It is a hundred feet wide, facing the river with a solid wall of masonry; and here we find continual bustle and the busy activity of an immense commerce. In front of this levee, from early spring until early winter, while navigation is open upon the Mississippi, immense numbers of boats are daily seen, loading and unloading, discharging and taking on board their many passengers, coming and going. While the river is locked by ice during a brief season in the winter, these boats are securely fastened to the levee. Yet, with all the precautions which may be taken, when the ice breaks up in early spring, it is very common for some of them to be crushed like egg-shells between the floes. Saint Louis is the great commercial depot of the Mississippi. Lying almost in the centre of the vast Mississippi Valley, it is connected by commerce with all the towns and cities above and below it and on the remotest tributaries of the Great River. As the West is developed, so will the magnitude and prosperity of this city increase. Lying equally between the North THREE DAYS AT SAINT LOUIS. 329 and South, the East and West, she will always main- tain her present cosmopolitan character, uniting people of all sections and all nationalities; and in this com- mingling, and eventual blending of families and races, she will become more thoroughly American, in the broadest signification of that word, CHAPTER XXVI. SAINT LOUIS TO CAIRO. nc fjtmftrefo aru) J"trst )an. PACIFIC HOUSE, Vicksburg, Mississippi, October Thirtieth. Our first view of Vicksburg was over a long, low point of land, the base of which was excavated by the Union Army during its investment of the city in the late conflict between the States. By passing through this cut-off, light draught gunboats could ascend or descend the Mississippi without passing near the batteries of the beleaguered city. This peninsula, which the Fed- eral troops held, is on the Louisiana shore, opposite Vicksburg. "VVe came in sight of Vicksburg just as the sun was setting, and by the time we had reached the city front everything on the river was enveloped in darkness. As we floated quietly down the stream in our canoe, and gazed at the brilliantly lighted city upon the heights, I thought of the sanguinary deeds there en- acted twenty years ago. Vicksburg is situated on the eastern bank of the Mis- sissippi, at the lower end of the immense Yazoo basin, created by the union of the river of that name with the Mississippi some twelve miles above. It is in the midst of some of the best scenery on the Lower Missis- sippi, being located on bluffs known as Walnut Hills, which extend for two miles along the river and rise gradually to a height of five hundred feet. It is about midway between Memphis and New Orleans, and is the largest city between them. As seen from the river it presents a highly picturesque appearance, and loses none of its attractiveness on a nearer approach. THE GREAT RIVER. Vicksborg, unlike many of the towns and cities on both the Upper and Lower Mississippi, has no history stretching back into a past century. Its existence dates only from 1836, when a planter by the name of Vick settled there and founded the town. Members of his family still reside there. The most interesting event connected with the town is its capture by Grant, in 1863. After a desperate struggle upon the river, New Orleans had capitulated to the Union forces under Farragut and Porter, and on May seventh the surren- der of Baton Rouge had been demanded, and the de- mand had been complied with without any conflict. On the thirteenth of May, Commander Palmer an- chored before Natchez, where no resistance was offered him. His little squadron, consisting of the Iroquois and several gunboats, then proceeded up the river to "Vicksburg, four hundred miles above New Orleans. The bluffs were lined with Confederate batteries and a scornful refusal was returned to his demand for a sur- render of the city and garrison. After an unsuccessful bombardment, the Con- federate batteries being so strongly posted and so well manned that it was found impossible to reduce them, it was deemed necessary to resort to other methods for the subjugation of the city. Vicksburg is situated on a broad bend in the river, and as the only strategic point of value to the place was its command of the river, the idea was conceived of isolating it by cutting a new channel across the neck of the peninsula formed by the sweep of the river, and thus leave it six miles inland. On the morning of the twenty-ninth of June, 1862, MEMPHIS TO VICK8BWRQ. 371 tlic ground was broken for this canal. It was expected that, were but a narrow channel cut, the force of the current in rushing through it would at once widen and deepen it, and it would thus speedily become the main channel of the Mississippi. Twelve hundred negroes from adjoining plantations volunteered their services, and went to work with a will, chopping, grubbing and digging. By the twenty-second of July the canal was completed, but to the chagrin of those who had planned it the river was then too low to run through it. Nothing remained but to leave Vicks- burg in possession of the Confederates, or reduce it by other means. One portion of the Union fleet was moored near the mouth of the Yazoo and the other portion below Vicksburg, and owing to the threatening attitude of that city with its frowning batteries, communication between them by means of the river was impossible. Meantime, at the Confederate navy-yard, up the Yazoo river, a powerful ironclad ram, named the Arkansas, was in process of construction, and was expected soon to be ready for duty. On the fifteenth of July, before the completion of the canal, the ram came down the river in close pursuit of two Union gunboats, having already driven the Carondelet ashore. All the gun- boats of the Union fleet were brought to bear on her, but she successfully ran the fleet, apparently unharmed, and took shelter under the batteries of Vicksburg. It was subsequently learned that her loss was ten killed and fifteen wounded, Captain Brown, her coni' mander, slightly in the head. Her smoke-stack was riddled, but otherwise she was not injured. A general engagement took place between the Union gunboats 372 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. on one side and the Confederate batteries on the other. It was in the midst of a hot southern summer, and the men, one after another, fell sick. A man would be well one day and die before the close of the next. Of the one hundred and thirty men of the mortar fleet, more than one hundred were off' duty, while more than one-half the crews of the gunboats were incapacitated by sickness. Farragut decided to drop back to New Orleans and wait for a better time and opportunity to strike an effective blow. The fleet therefore retreated down the river as far as Baton Ilouge, where an engagement with the Confederates took place in August. During this engagement the terrible ram, Arkansas, having become disabled, at once became the objective point of the shells from the gunboats. The condensed cotton with which she was packed caught fire and, after all her upper works were destroyed, she blew up with a terrible explosion. The naval attack upon Vicksburg having failed, General Grant decided upon a siege by land forces, which was commenced on May nineteenth of the following year. He had approached by mining and digging until his batteries were within reach of the city, which he had determined to capture, since such capture would give him control of the railroads and military highways, and enable him to drive Johnson from the State of Mississippi. The first attack showing but slight results, a simul- taneous assault was ordered on May twenty-second. The storming party were cut down by a deadly fire, but persisted, nevertheless, until the men under the command of General Hugh S. Ewing had crossed the MEMPHIS TO VICKSBURG. 373 ditch on the left of the bastion, scrambled up the outer wall and planted the Stars and Stripes near the top. Sergeant Griffith, of the Twenty-second Iowa, with eleven privates, succeeded in effecting an entrance to the bastion on the left, but all except the sergeant paid for their daring with their lives. The assault was kept up with vigor all day, during which three thou- sand of the besiegers fell. Within the city the scene was terrible. The noise of the constant cannonading was deafening, and the shells fell like hail. The panic-stricken inhabitants, men, women and children, rushed madly through the streets and sought in vain for a place of shelter. Vicksburg was now surrounded. The raining was going steadily on. The river was sentinelled by gun- boats above and below, while a three-gun battery oil the peninsula opposite sent a continuous fire of shell upon the garrison, burning up its shot and shell foundry. The Confederate forts were mined, and countermines were made by the besieged ; and the sound of the picks of the hostile armies was heard through the partitions of earth which separated them. Food became scarce within the city, and at the end of six weeks the ammunition gave out and a flag of truce was sent out with a request for an armistice in order to arrange terms of capitulation. Grant, as usual, insisted upon " unconditional surrender," and to that the Confederates finally consented, and on the morning of the Fourth of July, 1863, the Stars and Stripes went up over the captured works. Twenty- seven thousand troops were paraded, supplied with three days' rations, and escorted out of town and across the Big Black on their way to Jackson, the officers 374 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. taking with them their regimental clolhing, and the staff, field and cavalry officers, a horse each. The capture of Vicksburg was one of the most brilliant and important achievements of the war, yield- ing, as it did, the Mississippi wholly into the hands of the Federal army. It was accomplished by the same* military skill and indomitable will which first distin- guished themselves at Fort Donelson, and never failed until the fall of Richmond sent a shout of joy through- out the North. Grant was placed at the head of the Northern army, and from that day the Rebellion was doomed. Vicksburg is now a city of about fourteen thousand inhabitants, and is the chief commercial mart of that section of the Mississippi. It has rallied from the vicissitudes which it suffered during the war, and is now a prosperous, as well as a beautiful city. CHAPTER XXIX. VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. (ZDue untofo uitfr Saonfc JDan. PLANTATION HOUSE, Warrenton, Mississippi, October 31, 1881. >ICKSBURG has many attractions for the tourist owing to its picturesque position \w/(2 and history, and it was with some re- j'rW^^I luctance that we returned to our canoe late in the afternoon of the thirty-first. As we paddled out from the shore with thoughts of soon reaching the end of our jour- ney, the Natchez came steaming in and diverted us for the moment to considerations for our safety. She is one of the finest boats plying on the Mississippi, and when plowing the water at a high rate of speed is an object of genuine admiration. Our trip from Vicksburg to Warrenton, a distance of only eight miles, was uneventful, nothing of special interest being noted on the banks of the river, save here and there a cotton plantation with signs of cheer- ful and productive industry. A few minutes after our arrival at Warrenton, a small village of one or two hundred souls, we were pleasantly domiciled at the comfortable residence of D. G. Goodrum, a leading (377) 378 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. cotton planter of the neighborhood and proprietor of a general store. Notwithstanding the fact of our being Northerners, the Goodrums were most genial and hearty in their conversation and attentive to our wants. The fall elections were approaching at this time, and a desire that I had long felt, to listen to a political dis- cussion in the South, was gratified during our stay here. We went to the place appointed for the meeting and found the representatives of three parties filling the hall, all eager for the fray. "While republicans and black republicans, white democrats and black democrats, white fusionists and black fusionists, stepped upon the platform in turn and indicated, in impressive language, the party and principles of their choice. An old colored man, one of the blackest in the assembly, was called to the chair, which he filled with comparative dignity and impartiality. Having heard and read much of the party wrangles of politi- cal opponents in Mississippi, I not unnaturally antici- pated a somewhat exciting time. Imagine, therefore, my surprise to witness the "house called to order" by the chair, and the issues of the campaign quietly and intelligently discussed, without any resort to high words, knives or revolvers a condition of things with which I fear Mississippians have too often been credited by party writers and politicians possessed of more zeal than honesty. The bitter feeling against the negroes that prevailed shortly after the close of the war which resulted in their emancipation, was no doubt largely due to the prejudices engendered by slavery and the political complications consequent upon their being suddenly placed on an equal footing with their former masters in VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 379 the exercise of their rights as freemen. The sanguin- ary race-encounters at the polls in the South, reported in the Northern papers since 18G5, not unfreqtiently with much exaggeration, are things of the past let us hope never to be revived ; and, as the years roll by and the rising generation of blacks, with their minds free from the shackles of ignorance as their bodies are from slavery, that the color-line will cease to be an obstacle to political and other preferment, and white and black live together and work for their common good in har- mony and peace. ne fiuitefo anb Qtyirft Dat). BONDURANT LANDING, Saint Joseph, Louisiana, November First. Before resuming our voyage on the following morn- ing we were allowed to inspect a cotton-gin, through the courtesy of Hon. J. \V. Goodrum, brother of our host at Warrenton. We had noticed several of these gins on plantations after passing Vicksburg, but this was the first we had seen in operation, and we were much interested by the apparently complicated though really simple process of manipulating the useful vegetable product before its transmission to the manufacturer to be converted into material for clothing. At Point Pleasant we halted for lunch and made the acquaintance of Albert Bland. After our meal, taken at his commodious store, I had a conversation with him in relation to the political condition of Louis- iana. His views were based on intelligent inves- tigation and appeared thoroughly sincere, and al- though presented from a Southern standpoint, were by no means partisan or illiberal. I left him with a 380 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. most favorable impression on my mind of the growth of a sentiment which bade fair soon to unite all sections of our common country in the bonds of fraternal citizen- ship. Grand Gulf, a small village standing on a high bluif, and one of the mouths of Big Black River, were reached at four o'clock in the afternoon. The Big Black takes its rise in Chocktaw County, and after a course of two hundred miles, enters the Mississippi through two mouths, one of which is in Warren County, and the other in Claiborne County at Grand Gulf. Here we disembarked a few minutes after sun- set, at the point where General Grant landed during the operations against Bruinberg in 1863. I was kindly received as a guest at the Bondurant Planta- tion and honored by being assigned to the room for- merly occupied by the great general. Our run for the day was sixty-four miles between nine o'clock in the morning and six in the evening, one of the best heats in our long race to the sea, and a showing to which even a veteran canoeist might possibly refer with some pride. It is due, however, to my companion, Paine, that I should candidly con- fess that the credit belonged chiefly to his vigorous arms, as he used the double paddle in the bow of the canoe. (Ditf unkeb an& JFcmrtf) !Dap. PLANTATION HOUSE, Bosedale Landing, Louisiana, November Second. Breakfasted rather late at the Bondurant Planta- tion, at which our worthy host surprised us with a bountiful mess of fresh perch, caught by negroes in a VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 381 bayou on the estate. Mr. Bondurant entertained us so agreeably and hospitably that we were startled to find it nine o'clock while boarding the Alice. He pushed us out from the landing, while a gathering of white and colored people on the banks waved their caps and cheered us God-speed. On nearing General Zachary Taylor's old plantation, a heavy and protracted rain- storm forced us to pull ashore. Here we were re- galed with a generous lunch, and listened to stories of "Old Zach.," related with enthusiasm by colored admirers of the hero; and while the storm lasts and prevents our departure, we will tell the reader what we know of the hero of Buena Vista. The family tree of this American patriot blossomed long ago on English shores, and the blood of hi.s forefathers is said to have been both ancient and blue. The emigration of the family to Virginia took place in 1692, and the history of that State is inter- threaded in warp and woof with outcroppings of this distinguished name. General Taylor's father held a colonel's commission in the Revolutionary War, and manfully helped to mould the country towards its future greatness. In 1790, the family moved to Kentucky, when young Zachary was less than a year old, and when the em- bryo State was little more than a battle-ground for contending tribes of Indians and the bloody wars then raging between the red and white races. Colonel Taylor, the father, bore so conspicuous a part in these early struggles as to render his name a terror to the barbarian foe, and a tower of strength to the settlers whose banner he bore. When peace at last brought repose to the country, he became one of Kentucky's 382 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. leading politicians and public men. He helped frame the constitution of his State, represented Jefferson County and the city of Louisville for years in both branches of the legislature, and voted as a member of the electoral college for Jefferson, Madison, Monroe and Clay. His sons and daughters were left a grand heritage of fame, staunch character, and the true grit which fights for principle against all odds. The younger Taylor, Zachary, is said to have had a boyhood filled with adventure and touched with the bold characteristics and heroic traits which afterwards distinguished his life. Raised on the frontier, exposed daily and nightly to sudden attacks from the surround- ing Indian tribes, in danger of being scalped on his way to school, buffeted by the rough wind of adverse circumstances, he attained a character of strength which no gentler rearing could give. His opportuni- ties for the discipline of the schools were meagre enough, but his great will-power and untiring perse- verance enabled him to master an education where others would have failed. In 1808, when the embers of the on-coming war were being fanned into flame and the capture of the United States Frigate Chesapeake by a British ship of war sent a thrill of indignation through the country, young Taylor made application to Jefferson for a commission in the army, and, on the third of May in that year, was created first-lieutenant in the Seventh Regiment, United States Infantry. In 1812, he was promoted to a captaincy, and having been placed in command of Fort Harrison, on the Wabash, about fifty miles above Vincennes, Indiana, he successfully repelled an attack of savages greatly outnumbering his V1CKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 383 own little band, and by his skilful strategy and her- oism, covered his youthful name with glory. It was within an hour of midnight when the Fort was fired and the attack commenced. Surrounded by a yelling horde of four hundred and fifty Indians, this boy-cap- tain calmly gave his orders amid the rushing of the flames and the cries of women and children inside, who had sought the protection of the Fort. By heroic ef- forts the flames were extinguished, temporary breast- works were erected and such astorrn of shot poured in- to the enemy's ranks that by morning they were over- powered, and Captain Taylor and his men were left victors of the field. The country resounded with the praises of this officer of only twenty-two years, and the brave defence won for him the brevet rank of major. During the years intervening between 1815 and 1832, Major Taylor was stationed at various frontier posts in the West and rendered efficient service. He had been promoted to the rank of lieutenant-colonel, and in the last-named year was appointed commander of the regular troops in the Black Hawk War. At the close of this war he received the appointment of colo- nel of the First Regiment, Infantry, then doing duty on the Upper Mississippi. Here he acted as Indian agent for several years, and acquired great influence over his dusky brethren, being known among them as the "Big Chief." In 1836, having been ordered to Florida, the brilliant and bloody battle of Okee-cho- bee was fought, in which Colonel Taylor so distin- guished himself as to receive the brevet rank of briga- dier-general. He was assigned command of the operations in Florida, and continued there until 1840, making four years of difficult service in that particu- lar field. 334 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. During this Florida war, General Taylor was cen- sured for employing bloodhounds to ascertain the hiding-places of the wily foe; but the censure was ill- considered, since he himself said, in a letter on the subject, that his object in employing dogs was to " as- certain where the Indians were, not to injure them." The admission of Texas into the Union, in 1845, having virtually brought on the Mexican War, Gen- eral Taylor became at once one of the most prominent actors in that great military drama. He was recalled by the Secretary of War, Mr. Marcy, from Louisiana to the defence of Texas, and appointed to the command of the army of occupation there. In August, he took up his position at Corpus Christi, on the west side of the Nueces, where he re- mained until March, 1846, at which time he went to the Rio Grande, as far as Fort Brown or where Fort Brown afterwards stood a distance of one hundred and nineteen miles. Ampudia remonstrated against the blockade of the Rio Grande in vain, and thus matters progressed until the war was fairly inaugurated. General Arista had succeeded Ampudia in the command of the Mexican forces and on one or two minor occasions when small detachments of Americans had been surrounded and captured by overwhelming numbers he issued the most astonishing congratulatory orders, proclaiming the success of their arms. But this inflated bubble of bombast was doomed to be pricked. Taylor advanced to Point Isabel and soon afterwards the bloody battle of Palo Alto was fought. For two hours the havoc raged with unceasing fury, and regi- ments of Mexican lancers and cavalry were mowed VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 387 clown like grass before the heavy fire of our artillery. The long prairie grass of Palo Alto, which reached nearly to the muzzle of the guns, was set on fire by the continuous sheet of flame issuing from our cannon, and enveloped the contending armies in a cloud of smoke. At the end of two hours a new battle line was formed under cover of the smoke and the conflict was renewed with increased vigor. For three hours longer the fighting continued. Again and again the Mexican line advanced to the onset with a brave front and were as many times hurled back in defeat. Arista endeavored to turn our flank and get possession of the stores in our rear, but his efforts were parried by more skilful resistance, and at last, as night set in, the enemy were driven in disorder from the field, and the Americans held a clear title of victory to the grounds of Palo Alto. At this battle two thousand men under General Taylor confronted and defeated six thousand Mexicans. The enemy's loss in killed, wounded and missing was estimated at one thousand. The memorable day was that of May eighth, 1846. General Taylor is said to have exhibited an utter disregard of danger when in battle, always inspiring his men by his presence where the balls flew thickest and death seemed most imminent. At Palo Alto, he rode up to the Fifth Infantry on the American right as the Mexican Lancers charged down upon them, and addressed them in these words : " Men, I place myself in your square! " How much this act influenced the gallant repulse of the charge, who can tell ? The brilliant victory of Resaca de la Palma, in which General La Vega was captured, followed Palo Alto on the next day, and was almost or quite as hotly 22 388 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. contested and perhaps quite as bloody. Arista's camp was captured with all its prodigal display of military grandeur and profuse splendor of equipage, and the American arm) 7 partook of a bountiful supper from the contents of the camp-kettles simmering on the fires, left in such sudden haste when the panic came on. The tricolor of the Tampico Battalion was also captured and is still preserved among the nation's trophies of war. During the engagement General Taylor seemed to be everywhere at once as the inspiring and sustain- ing spirit of the great action. His official report of the affair is full of a clear sagacity as well as great modesty and reveals the character of the man. The two victories of Palo Alto and Resaca de la Pal ma were all the more praiseworthy from the fact that the American army on these occasions contended against a force four times its number, and nothing but superior skill atid generalship, added to well-disci- plined troops, could have braved the repeated and furious onsets of the Mexicans. General Ampudia, second in command to Aristn, barely escaped drown- ing while crossing the Rio Grande in the disorderly retreat which followed the battle. He rushed into the Plaza of Metamoras the first man who entered the city with the news exclaiming, "All is lost!" On that night of terrible repulse to the enemy, between four and five thousand panic-stricken and lawless soldiers, were wandering about the streets of Metamoras, abandoned to the despair of the hour. Ampudia denounced Arista, and the women of the city tore down the festoons from the ball-rooms where they had prepared a festival in honor of the expected vic- tory and then threw aside and trampled upon their VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 389 gay apparel. Citizens fled to the country, only per- haps to fall by the way into the hands of pillagers and murderers or scattered bodies of unorganized troops. Neither social nor civil nor military order had any place in this carnival of riot and confusion. On the eleventh, there was an exchange of prisoners, among whom on our side were Captains Thornton and Hardee and Lieutenant Lane. The Mexican army was no\v in full retreat and our successes were followed up by crossing the Rio Grande, taking possession of Metamoras and giving to the in- habitants of that city the security and protection which their own troops were unable to furnish. Here Gen- eral Taylor was obliged to wait for reinforcements and wagons for a period of about three months before he could advance to the attack of Monterey. The Mexicans, meantime, had become strongly intrenched behind the natural and artificial fortifications of that walled city with an opposing force of ten thousand nien, under command of Ampudia. The rugged heights of Monterey were supposed to be impregnable. For ten years it had been held by a handful of native troops, defying the Spanish power. To attempt its reduction would be to rush into the very jaws of death for their guns commanded the entire approach. Yet against this famous stronghold General Taylor con- fidently advanced with a force of but six thousand men. After a march of twelve days he came in sight of the beautiful city enthroned among its mountains. Thick stone walls environed it. Ditches and redoubts and bastions and a river in its rear, protected it. But the attack was skilfully undertaken, the city was stormed and in a few days the vaunted fortress of the 390 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Aztecs the strongest save Vera Cruz in all Mexico was in our hands. The generalship of Taylor on this occasion has been lauded everywhere, and well does his memory deserve the highest tribute paid to military genius. Meantime Santa Anna had returned from exile at Havana, and gathering around him a force of twenty- two thousand men, set out from San Louis Potosi to drive back the Americans. This army Taylor met on the field of Buena Vista eight miles from Saltillo with a volunteer soldiery Scott having drawn off most of the regulars for other points. Our troops were formed in line of battle in a mountain-pass under the towering peaks of the Sierra Madre, two thousand feet high. They occupied a lower spur of the range and advancing up the mountain side, their continuous firing after the battle had begun, wrapped the ascent in a sheet of smoky flame. The contest raged furiously along the whole line, and thrice during the ten hours of terrible conflict did the balance of victory seem to hang by a single thread the immense numbers of the Mexicans almost insuring our defeat. But the victory was at last ours though won at a fear- ful cost of life. How could it be otherwise when five thousand Americans were pitted against an enemy twenty thousand strong? "Throughout the action General Taylor was where the shot fell hottest and thickest, two of which pierced his clothes." When a canister shot tore through the breast of his coat he remarked coolly that " those balls are grow- ing excited." At one time during the fray he watched the fighting of some Kentucky regiments his own State troops VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 391 supposing them to be faltering; then, learning his mistake and seeing them advance in solid phalanx, he couldn't help shouting, " Hurrah for old Kentuck ! " while tears of joy ran down his cheeks. " And thus on Buena Vista's heights, a long day's work was done, And thus our brave old general another battle won ; And still our glorious banner waves unstained by flight or shame, And the Mexicans among their hills still tremble at our name. So honor unto those that stood ! Disgrace to those that fled ! And everlasting honor to the brave and gallant dead !" The military exploits of General Taylor were in- deed glorious, but these could not outshine his tender- heartedness, his humanity and his noble qualities as a man. The fall of Hardin and McKee and Lincoln and young Clay, besides many others of his personal friends, affected him deeply, and drew forth heartfelt words of sympathy to the grief-stricken families. After the battles of Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma, Taylor received the appointment of major- general, which was confirmed by Congress, and he was constituted commauder-in-chief of all the forces in Mexico a position which he held until Scott was or- dered to that country in 1846. One of Taylor's personal peculiarities was an aver- sion to uniforms or full dress of any description ; and in summer he delighted in cotton pantaloons, straw hat and linen roundabout. In character he was every inch the general. No emergency, however great, overthrew him. If dangers arose, he confronted them ; if difficulties, he became their master. Superior in judgment, superior in tactical skill and strategy, prompt and decisive in action, he has conquered a name and fame in the four desperate battles of the 392 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Mexican War, which lias won for him laurels of death- less renown. htf tijuntittb anfo Jtftl) Dag. FOSTER HOUSE, Natchez, Mississippi, Novembei' Third. The Alice, having been carried up to the plantation house at Rosedale the previous evening, was borne back to the river this morning on the shoulders of three burly negroes, who seemed very proud of the opportunity of rendering a service to the Northern strangers. We found the aspect of the country very much changed as we approached Natchez. Large and well- tilled plantations protected by levees now skirted the river-banks, while occasional forests of dense green, heavily draped with Spanish moss, threw dark shad- ows on our watery path. Soon after landing at Natchez we had the pleasure of attending a political meeting at which the Hon. L. Q. C. Lamar was the principal speaker, and were very much impressed by the liberal sentiments to which he gave expression. The senator spoke in advocacy of General Lowry, the democratic candi- date for governor. Among other things, my memory recalls the following : " As they had accepted the situa- tion at the close of the war they should act in good faith and endeavor to adapt themselves to the circum- stances in which they were now placed and which fol- lowed the arbitrament to which they had succumbed. Northern men and Northern capitalists should be en- couraged to come South and made welcome to join SPORT AMONG THE BAYOUS. VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 395 them in the development of their industries and com- mercial enterprises. It was their duty to do all in their power to promote the growth of good feeling be- tween the sections and show the people of the North that they were now not less loyal to the old flag than, those who had carried it through the war." The re- mainder of the speech was in the same liberal and en- lightened strain. After the meeting at the Court House, I saw Senator Lamar in the parlor of the Foster House and conversed with him on the subject of the contest in which he was engaged. I also ex- plained to him the nature and extent of my voyage, in which he appeared much interested. Few towns or cities of the Mississippi are so rich in historical interest as Natchez, situated on the eastern bank of the river, two hundred and eighty miles north of New Orleans. The city is divided into two sec- tions, known as Natchez-on-the-hill and Natchez-un- der-the-hill. The latter is built on a narrow strip of land between the bluff and the river, and includes the landings and principal business houses. It possesses neither architectural nor scenic beauty. It was formerly the resort of gamblers, river thieves and other desperate characters. Jim Bludsoe, the hero of one of Hays' poems, we are told, had " One wife at Natchez-under-the-hill, And another one here in Pike." Broad and well-shaded roads connect it with Nat- chez-on-the-hill, which is beautifully located on a cliff nearly two hundred feet high overlooking the river. The latter has abundance of shade trees, and many handsome residences and other buildings. The houses 396 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. are principally of brick, and surrounded by ample and attractive gardens. Along the whole front of the city, on the brow of the cliff, is a park from which fine views can be ob- tained up and down the river. Adjoining this park is a National Cemetery, laid out and decorated in a taste- ful manner. The Court House is in a puhlic square, shaded with trees, and the Masonic Temple is a hand- some building. The Catholic Cathedral has a spire one hundred and twenty-eight feet high, and there are other churches worthy of notice. Natchez is the shipping-port of a large and fertile cotton region, and holds commercial intercourse with the whole Mississippi Valley. Its population in 1860 was 13,553. But the blockade of the Mississippi and the general prostration of business in the South dur- ing the Rebellion affected the city disastrously, so that even at the conclusion of the war it did not at once re- cover, and in 1870 its population had decreased to about 10,000. Since that time it has been gradually regaining lost ground, and is now on the road to pros- perity. The early history of Natchez is full of incident in- terwoven with romance. Before the white man set foot on the shores of the American continent it was the home of a tribe of Indians from which it takes its name. The Natchez Indians were a superior race, and may have been descendants of the Mound Builders, since their religion was that of fire-worship, which was evidently that of the prehistoric inhabitants of Amer- ica. Their ceremonies were not unlike those of the fire- worshippers of Persia. Fire was kept perpetually burning upon the altar of the Temple of the Sun, and VICKSBUSG TO NATCHEZ. 397 this fire they believed originally descended to them from heaven. A short time before the appearance of the white man this fire accidentally went out, and great were their mourning and dismay, as they be- lieved the accident foreboded some great misfortune to their tribe. Filled with the remembrance of this evil omen, they made but a feeble struggle against the en- croachments of the French, and were easily dislodged from the territory. In extreme cases they offered hu- man sacrifices to appease the wrath of their deity. In 1700, D'Iberville, whose exploits in America were not confined to Louisiana, but began in the provinces of New York and Newfoundland, pro- ceeded up the Mississippi in order to explore the country and form friendly alliances with the native tribes. He visited the Natchez country, and decided it was the most favorable for the establishment of a colony, and on the bluff where Natchez now stands, he located the site of the future capital and built a fort. The exact location of this fort is now a matter of dis- pute. Some contend that it was at the back of the present town, and others that Ellis Bluffs marks the spot. While D'Iberville was there, one of the tem- ples was struck by lightning and set on fire. The In- dians were frightened, believing it to be a manifestation of anger by their deity, and the high priest besought the squaws to throw their little ones into the fire, m order to appease him. Four infants were thus sacrificed before D'Iberville could prevail upon them to desist. The Great Sun, king of the Natchez tribe, was very friendly, and gave the French permission not only to build a fort, but to establish a trading-post. The lat- ter, however, was not immediately done. 398 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. Sixteen years later no permanent settlement had been effected at Natchez. A feeling of unfriendliness had been engendered between the Indians and whites, and several of the latter had been murdered. And now romance unites with matter-of-fact in the history of the city. The daughter of Cardillac, then royal governor of Louisiana, fell in love with Bienville, who, though a young man, was in a certain sense the rival of her father. Cardillac was at first infuriated that one of her birth and rank should bestow her affections upon a mere adventurer, and a Canadian. He remon- strated with his daughter, but she grew so pale and thin that at last he was frightened into acquiescence with her wishes. Inviting Bienville to an audience, he offered him the olive branch of reconciliation, and the hand of his daughter as the guarantee of his good will. Bienville received the communication respect- fully, but declined the honor intended him. In re- taliation for the slight, Cardillac at once ordered him to the Natchez country to build a fort and punish the murderers of the Canadians, who had lost their lives at the hands of the Indians. "What!" exclaimed Bienville, "do you really intend to send me with thirty-four men to encounter a hostile tribe numbering eight hundred warriors?" But Cardillac was obdu- rate, and Bienville and his little force set out on their mad expedition. In April, 1716, Bienville and his small company encamped on an island a little more than fifty miles distant from the Natchez, and sent to them word that he was going to establish a fort and trading-post among them. After a little demur, and the exchange of several communications, the Indian chiefs, deceived VICKSBURG TO NATCHEZ. 399 by the apparent friendliness, and believing the murder of the Canadians still unknown, visited Bienville on the island. They were immediately made prisoners, and finally, after exacting and receiving the heads of the murderers, two of them were put to death. The Indians, thus intimidated, concluded a treaty of peace, and on the arrival of Bienville at Natchez, assisted in cutting the ditches, raising the parapets and bastions of the new fort, and in constructing the build- ings to be occupied by the French. This fort was called Rosalie, and the ruins of it are still visible. The ground which it occupies is, however, gradually sinking, being undermined by subterranean springs, and soon it will have entirely disappeared. The depth of the artificial earthworks, subsequently added, is plainly discernible, in the distinctly-marked strata of earth. Bienville returned in triumph to New Orleans, to resume the government of that colony in the absence of De 1' Epenay, who had been appointed to succeed Cardillac. The latter, on his way up the river, search- ing for gold and silver, stopped at Natchez, and was cordially received by the chiefs, who presented to him their calumet in token of peace. Scorning their of- fers of friendship, he treated them contemptuously, and as a result difficulties broke out afresh between the French and Indians, and Cardillac was summarily recalled by Crozat. In 1729, the Indians massacred all the settlers of the Natchez country, including the colonies on the Saint Catherine, on the Yazoo, the Washita and near the present town of Monroe. More than two hundred men were killed, and ninety-two women and one him- 400 DOWN THE GREAT KIVER. dred and fifty-five children taken prisoners. A war was the result, in which the Natchez were dispersed, and practically annihilated as a tribe. A few years ago a small remnant of this tribe still existed in Texas, its members exceedingly proud of their lineage. The subsequent vicissitudes of the settlement were only such as were endured by all frontier towns. As the country became populated, Natchez became pros- perous, and up to the period of the war was one of the most thriving cities of the Lower Mississippi. As the resources of the South are developed, and its produc- tive capacity increased, Natchez will share its pros- perity, and become an index of its material advance- ment. CHAPTER XXX. NATCHEZ TO BATON ROUGE. )ne djuufirtb ant) Sail) JDag. NEGRO CABIN, Near Fairview, Louisiana, November 4, 1881. E had fully intended to leave Natchez at an early hour in the morning; but I was drawn into a conversation concern- ing the late war, on learning that a brother of the Misses Foster was killed in an action with Kilpatrick's cavalry. Sup- posing that I would be likely to know some particulars of their brother's death, they plied me with many inquiries which ultimately led to a gen- eral discussion of our cavalry movements in Virginia. It was nearly ten o'clock when we pushed out from Natchez, but aided by an unusually strong current we covered our average distance for the day. Being ignorant of the country in our advance, we made a miscalculation as to the evening destination and experienced some difficulty in effecting a landing late at night, which ended in our being compelled to seek quarters at a negro cabin or accept the alternative of remaining on the river, perhaps until daylight. We (403) 404 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. were not easily reconciled to our accommodation on this occasion, but had become so thoroughly accus- tomed to roughing it that we at length adjusted our- selves to circumstances, and "slept on our arms," as soldiers would express it, on the floor of the cabin, with a few old rags scattered over the boards, and our blankets for covering. It should, however, be stated to the credit of our colored host, that he provided the best at his disposal, and with a generosity that com- manded our admiration. We found very little rest in the cabin of Benjamin Franklin Williams, owing to the progress of a re- ligious revival in the vicinity. Mrs. Williams went to class-meeting after supper, and did not return until between two and three o'clock in the morning ; then, upon her return, her husband joined her in a review of their work in the cause of the Gospel, and, to- gether, they spent in this way the remainder of the night. I may add that I have learned from some ex- perience among colored people, that when they are once enlisted in religious work, their zeal is unbounded, and they are ceaseless in their endeavors to convert others. (Ditf Quirtircit aub >n)cntl) Elcrg. PRIVATE RESIDENCE, Bayou Tunica, Louisiana, November Fifth. In anticipation of very shortly making the mouth of the Red River, the last tributary of the Mississippi, we breakfasted at six o'clock, and a few minutes later pushed the Alice into her element, and were soon out of sight of our friends at Fairview. In less than an hour we were off the mouth of the Red NATCHEZ TO BATON ROUGE. River, and soon after met the steamer Henry Frank, engaged in the cotton trade between Natchez and New Orleans. lied River rises in Texas, and flows east and then south, dividing Texas from Indian Territory and Ar- kansas. It then passes into Louisiana, flowing south- east until it falls into the Mississippi. Its length is about twelve hundred miles. Small steamers ascend it as far as Shreveport, Louisiana, three hundred and thirty miles from its mouth. The " Raft," an im- mense collection of trees and drift-wood, about fifteen miles long, had long obstructed the navigation ; but in 1873, a navigable channel was opened through its en- tire length. Red River receives its name from its pe- culiar color, supposed to be derived from the red clay through which its upper course lies. In Louisiana it sends off numerous bayous, which find their way back again to the main stream, forming frequent lakes. Arrived at Tunica Landing, we were very cordially received by Mr. John J. Winn and family. Mr. Winn is an enterprising merchant and cotton planter, and we found him an exceedingly affable and courteous host. BAYOU TUNICA, Tunica Landing, Louisiana, November Sixth. The weather being rainy, with strong southerly wind, Mr. Winn easily persuaded us to remain an- other day at Tunica. Had the weather been more fa- vorable we should either have continued our voyage, or accepted Mr. "Winn's pressing invitation to join him in an alligator hunt the chief sport of this section 4QG DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. of Louisiana. Our host informed us that he had shot as many as seventeen of these creatures in one day, among the bayous of his plantation. The steamers Natchez and Robert E. Lee stopped at Tunica in the afternoon on their way up the river. Mr. Winn took me on board the latter and introduced me to several of the officers. Let me add that the Winns were untiring in their efforts to make our stay at their home in every respect agreeable, and it is but a slight recognition of their hospitality to say that they succeeded admirably. htf guitefc cmft iNtntl) JDati. WATERLOO HOUSE, Waterloo, Louisiana, November Seventh. It was with a feeling of regret that we parted with the Winns and paddled away from Tunica at nine o'clock in the morning. Mr. and Mrs. Winn, their clerks and the colored people of the hamlet were pres- ent at the launch. The weather was still unsettled, while a high wind from the southward greatly retarded our progress. Seeing no plantation-houses or villages, between twelve and one o'clock we disembarked, and refreshed ourselves with coffee, corn-bread and bacon at a negro cabin about three miles above Bayou Sara, a flourish- ing village, which we passed at three o'clock. Twelve miles below Bayou Sara we passed Port Hudson, noted for important military events during the Civil War; and, late in the afternoon, met the United States mail steamer, Morning Star, the officers and crew of which honored us with a salute. Waterloo, a NATCHEZ TO BATON ROUGE. 407 village of five hundred souls, was reached a few min- utes after sundown, the dilapidated appearance of which led us to the reflection that a "great battle" had possibly been fought in its immediate vicinity. (Dttt iljunbrrir cmfc <&ntl) JDog. ELIZA PLANTATION, Near Plaquemine, Louisiana, November Eighth. Our run of November eighth led us through one of the richest sugar-producing sections of the State. Dotted here and there along the river's banks are the picturesque homes of the planters, made more attrac- tive by the tropical vegetation, the clustering vines, blooming roses and bright green turf, than they could ever be from mere architectural beauty, while their continuous course along the shore gives the idea of an extended and prosperous village. We were welcomed to the Eliza Plantation, by its proprietors, Messrs. V. U. Lefebre & Son, who are counted among the wealthi- est sugar planters of Plaquemine Parish, owning and controlling three large plantations. This was our first experience on a sugar plantation, and I made the most of my opportunity. We were shown the cane-field and sugar-mill, and every detail was explained, from the cutting of the cane to the re- fining process, which leaves this useful product in con- dition for the market. The sugar-cane varies in height from six to fifteen feet and upwards, and in diameter from one and a half to two inches. Its stalk is knotty. The roots are slender, about a foot iu length, and furnished with a few short fibres. There are twelve or fifteen leaves at 23 408 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. the top arranged like a fan. The sugar-cane requires a nutritious soil and a tropical or sub-tropical climate. It is propagated by slips, and requires from twelve to sixteen months to arrive at maturity. The leaves fall off before flowering, and the stem then becomes of a straw color. After the cane harvest the roots strike again and produce a fresh crop, but in about six years they must be removed. The canes are cut in dry weather. They should ha-ve a smooth skin, consider- able weight, grayish pith and a sweet glutinous juice. The lowest joint contains the richest juice. The canes are tied up in bundles and sent to the crushing-mill. The cane-mill usually consists of three massive cast- iron rollers, about six inches in diameter. The juice passes into a channel below, and thence to a reservoir. From twelve to fourteen tons of good ripe cane pro- duce about fifteen hundred gallons of juice, which are required for making one hogshead of sugar. The juice of the cane is simply a solution of sugar in water. It is usually of a yellow color, but is some- times colorless. It has an agreeable but rather insipid taste. The exposure of the juice to the air, even for half an hour, would cause fermentation to set in ; lime is therefore immediately added for the purpose of neutralizing the acid. The process of refining is of too technical a nature to be popularly explained in a work of this character. On the opposite, or eastern side of the river, stands Baton Rouge, one hundred and seventeen miles above New Orleans, and formerly the capital of Louisiana. It was one of the first French settlements on the Lower Mississippi, and had been previously the seat of an old Indian village. The city is built on a bluff NATCHEZ TO BATON ROUGE. 4Q9 twenty feet above the highest inundations, and is well and substantially erected. Plantations of sugar-cane, groves of tropical fruit trees and handsome villas with gardens, border the river at the foot of the bluff, the villas being, in some cases, of elegant architectural proportions. A National arsenal and barracks, a military hospital, the State Penitentiary and Deaf and Dumb Asylum, are located here, and the Louisiana State University was temporarily removed to this city after its edifice was burned in 1869. In the Civil War the city was occupied by the Federal troops after the capture of New Orleans. On August fifth, 1862, General Williams was attacked at Baton Rouge by the Confederates, under General Breckenridge. The Union general was killed, but the assailants, after a fierce contest, were repulsed. The city is advanta- geously situated for navigation and commerce, and has at present a population of about ten or twelve thou- sand. CHAPTER XXXI. BATON ROUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. BATON ROUGE TO NEW ORLEANS. 41 J in the darkness there was a good deal of confusion in their movements. They were defeated by the com- bined action of the little garrison and three gunboats in the river, the affair lasting until daylight; with a result of sixty-nine Confederate dead and one hun- dred and twenty prisoners. HE rays of the sun as he rose on the morning of this day fell upon us through a slight mist the wind favorable and the water smooth when we pushed off from the great seapo"rt and turned our prow in the direction of the Gulf. Met two large ocean steamers inward bound the first of these giants we had seen in motion. One of them glided so smoothly through the water that she ap- peared to us, at first, to be stationary. Soon, however, we discovered, by her wake, that she was forging ahead with her screw-propeller at a tolerably rapid pace, but so quietly as to lead to the impression that she was at anchor. We speedily paddled out of her way on finding our mistake, and the majestic vessel passed onward to her destination. English Turn was duly reached, a point rendered memorable by the fact that in the war of 1812 the English fleet, bound for New Orleans, turned back on (427) 428 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. hearing of the defeat of their land force by General Jackson. The people who inhabit this spot appeared to be mostly of French origin or affinity. They spoke little else but French, and the patois of the negroes was especially amusing to us who had been accustomed to hear only English spoken by our colored fellow- citizens of the North. The scenery on both banks of the river was pic- turesque and diversified orange groves, many acres in extent; rice fields and sugar plantations succeeding one another as in a panorama, and rendering our trip very pleasant. The weather was all we could wish, and the reflection that we were rapidly nearing the end of our voyage imparted an extra impulse to our arms at each dip of the paddle as we drove the Alice through the smooth and comparatively limpid water. (Dm $unkefo anfo Jtftotl) IDajj. HOME PLACE, Plaquemine Parish, Louisiana, November Thirteenth. We took leave of our French-speaking friends at English Turn this morning at seven o'clock, wind and weather still favoring us; and, stepping into our canoe, pulled rapidly away from the crowd of whites and negroes who lined the landing-place to witness our departure. Several ocean steamers passed us during the forenoon on their passage to and from New Orleans. The Teutonia, hailing from some German port, the Shelburne, from one of the Australian colonies, and a local steamer, complimented us with a salute from their whistles when in short range. Passed the night at an orange grove named Home NEW ORLEANS TO GULF OF MEXICO. 429 Place, which consists, besides the grove, of a landing- stage and a general store. At Home Place we had no choice but to occupy a sleeping-room with four other men and an equal number of dogs, the men being laborers in the orange grove. From this point large quantities of oranges are shipped in sloops to New Or- leans, which eventually find their way to the fruit- stands and stores of Northern cities. QDw gunfottft an& 0brteentl) JDcig. THE JUMP, Plaquemine Parish, Louisiana, November Fourteenth. Again afloat, after an early breakfast at Home Place and a hurried stroll through the orange grove, we re- sumed our journey. Our course this day led us past some of the finest orange groves and rice fields we had yet seen. It may be noted that there is a somewhat striking resemblance between the extremes of the Mis- sissippi. The wild rice savannas of Northern Minne- sota may be compared with the cultivated rice-fields of Louisiana. The Indian at the head waters of the Mississippi relies largely upon the wild product for his winter sustenance, while his white brother of the far South finds a ready market for the cultivated article. The sugar maple of the Upper Mississippi is replaced by the sugar-cane of the Lower, while the hemp and flax of Iowa and Wisconsin are paralleled by the cot- ton of Mississippi and Arkansas. The Jump is a small, scattered and primitive hamlet, with a popula- tion of possibly twenty-five or thirty souls, whose oc- cupation appeared to be principally confined to fish- ing. Their language is a mixture of French and 430 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. German, scarcely intelligible to our Northern ears. We failed to discover the origin or meaning of the singular name of this river-side cluster of cabins. ((Dne $unfcrrir cmfo 0n*ntentl) JDajJ. PORT EADS, Plaquemine Parish, Louisiana, NovemberFifteenth. A bright sun and clear sky greeted us as we opened the door of the little cabin at The Jump early on the morning of the last day of our voyage. A break- fast of bread and coffee was hastily taken and we were ready for the final strokes which would bring us to the Gulf of Mexico the goal toward which we had floated and paddled for one hundred and seventeen days. Pilot Station, at the head of the Passes, was reached at ten o'clock, and here we met with a hearty welcome from the sturdy men who devote their lives to the hazardous work of piloting vessels to and from the Gulf; a welcome which only those who have enjoyed their hospitality can adequately appreciate. Accus- tomed to exposure and danger, they are generous in the extreme to all who by fortune or accident fall into their hands. No sooner had we approached their landing-place than the Alice, with her crew, was pulled out of the water and a cordial invitation took us to their quarters, where we were promptly supplied with coffee and ship biscuit, and plied with questions as to our up-river experiences. After lunch, the Alice was put into the Mississippi for the last time and our hospitable entertainers gave three lusty cheers as we pushed off. We then paddled NEW ORLEANS TO GULF OF MEXICO. 431 briskly across the Expansion to the head of the South Pass, the most direct and best route to the Gulf. Port Eads was made at three o'clock. This village occu- pies a prominent and bleak position at the mouth of the South Pass at its entrance into the Gulf; is in Plaquemine Parish, and possesses an immense light- house. It is also a customs and pilot station. This volume would be incomplete without some reference to the celebrated engineer of the Jetties, who has made it possible for the largest ocean vessels to enter in safety the Great River. We therefore pause to give the reader a brief sketch of his remarkably eventful life. Captain James Buchanan Eads, a native of Law- renceburg, Indiana, was born May twenty-third, 1820. He was a machinist almost from his birth. When nine years of age he removed with his parents to Louis- ville, Kentucky, and his first lesson in steam engi- neering was learned on board the steamboat that con- veyed him to that city; the engineer, seeing the curios- ity of the boy excited, explained to him the principal parts of the machinery. At the age of ten years he con- structed models of saw-mills, fire-engines, steamboats, steam-engines, electrical and other machines. With no other tool than his pocket-knife, it is said, he could take to pieces and put together again a patent lever watch. At thirteen his parents went to Saint Louis, and he accompanied them. On the way there the steamer was burned in the night, and he landed nearly naked on the very spot now occupied by a part of the great bridge which he afterwards designed and built. For a few months he supported himself, his mother and sister by selling fruit on the street. He then 432 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. obtained a situation in a mercantile house in which he remained for five years. Here he found an excellent library to which he was allowed access by his generous employer. He made good use of his opportunity to study subjects bearing upon mechanics, civil engineering and physical science. In 1839 we find him employed as clerk on a Mississippi steamer. Here again he made the best use of his opportunity to acquire a com- plete knowledge of the great river which he afterward turned to such good account. In 1842 he built a diving-bell boat for recovering the cargoes of sunken steamers. He soon improved upon this by constructing one of larger tonnage, with machinery for lifting the hull and cargo of a vessel. A company was formed for operating this boat on the river between theBalizeand Galena. It was while engaged in this business that he obtained a thorough knowledge of the river-bed. In 1845 he established a glass manufactory at Saint Louis. Two years later this enterprise failed and left him burdened with debt. He then returned to his former business of raising steamers, removing obstacles from the river, and improving the harbor of Saint Louis. A capital of fifteen hundred dollars was pro- vided by his creditors, and ten years later he had increased this sum to nearly half a million, having long since paid off his creditors in full. In 1856 Captain Eads proposed to Congress to keep the channels of the Mississippi, Missouri, Ohio and Arkansas rivers clear of all obstructions for a term of years. A bill was passed by the House of Represent- atives authorizing the scheme, but in the Senate it failed. On the seventeenth of April, 1861, three days after NEW ORLEANS TO GULF OF MEXICO. 433 the attack on Fort Sumter by the Confederates, Attor- ney-General Bates wrote to him from Washington : " Be not surprised if you are called here suddenly by telegram. It may be necessary to have the aid of the most thorough knowledge of our Western rivers, and in that event, I have advised that you should be con- sulted." The summons came shortly after the letter, and Captain Eads went immediately to Washington. He submitted a plan to the President and Cabinet for placing gunboats on the rivers and locating batteries at several points on shore. With Captain afterward Rear-Admiral John Rodgers, he was appointed to carry out the recommendations he had made, and to improvise three war-vessels for service at Cairo. He afterward designed seven iron-clad gunboats for the Government, which he engaged to build in sixty-five days. They were all finished according to contract and ready for their armament. In 1862 Captain Eads was authorized to build six more armored iron gunboats, larger than the preceding ones. The kind of work these ironclads performed is recorded in the history of Grant and Halleck's cam- paigns, and of Farragut's capture of Mobile. From 1867 to 1874 Captain Eads was engaged in the construction of the steel-arch bridge at Saint Louis. The central arch of this great work has a clear span of five hundred and twenty feet and is universally pro- nounced to be the finest specimen of metal arch con- struction in the world. The side arches are five hun- dred and two feet in span ; the piers are sunk clear through to the bed rock. In his proposal, in 1874, to deepen the mouth of the Mississippi by means of Jetties, he was opposed by 434 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. nearly all the United States Engineers and by a com- mission composed of seven of them. This commission proposed to avoid the bars by building a canal from Fort Philip to Breton Bay. Captain Eads' plan was to make the river itself deepen the channel through the bars, and he had faith enough in his plan to offer to do the work at his own expense and wait for payment until he had proved its success. A bill was introduced in Congress to allow him to make his experiments on the South Pass. The cost was to be five and a quarter million dollars; only half a million was to be paid after a channel twenty feet deep by two hundred feet wide had been secured ; another half million after a channel twenty -two feet deep, and other sums upon the obtaining of channels twenty-six and twenty-eight feet deep. The final million was to be withheld until a channel of thirty feet depth had been kept through- out twenty years. Congress, however, afterward voted to pay him one and three-quarter million dollars in advance of the terms of his contract when he had se- cured twenty-two feet depth in the channel. The result of the application of the Jetty system to the South Pass has been a triumphant justification of its author's views. Four years after he commenced the work the United States inspecting officer reported that thirty feet depth had been secured throughout the channel, and that the least width was two hundred feet. The balance due Captain Eads by the Govern- ment was then paid him, and the million held as secu- rity was considered as earned and placed at interest for his benefit. The channel has maintained this depth ever since. Before commencing the Jetties, he had turned his NEW ORLEANS TO GULF OF MEXICO. 435 attention to the improvement of eleven hundred miles of the Mississippi by the Jetty system. On March fif- teenth, 1874, he addressed a letter to the Hon. William Windom, chairman of the Senate Committee on Trans- portation Routes to the Seaboard, and in this and sub- sequent papers clearly outlined one of the most mag- nificent plans which hydraulic engineering has ever undertaken, by which thirty thousand square miles of rich land could be saved from devastating inundations. In 1880, a commission reported to Congress in favor of the "Jetty system" of Captain Ends, as opposed to the " Outlet system " and the " Levee system " of other eminent engineers; and several million dollars were voted to "carry out his plans. Two reaches of the river, Plum Point, twenty miles long, and Lake Providence, thirty-five miles long, were selected for improvements, and the effect produced was simply mar- velous. During the time of the construction of the works for carrying his plans into execution, Captain Eads was in bad health, and for some time absent from the United States. No further appropriations were made to continue this great work ; but enough has been done to show the entire practicability of the plan. The grandest scheme contemplated by this indefati- gable engineer is the Ship Railway across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, for the transportation of large ships fully laden from ocean to ocean. This railway, he claims, can be built at one-half the cost of the Panama Canal and in one quarter of the time needed to build the canal ; that four or five times the speed practicable on a canal can be secured ; that more vessels can be carried in a day over the railway than through the canal ; that 436 DOWN THE GEE AT RIVER. it will cost less to operate it than to operate a canal ; and that its location is the very best of all those which are proposed on the American Isthmus. Its proposed track is twelve hundred miles from the De Lesseps Canal, the immense territory of Central America lying between the two. Captain Eads has, at the request of the Government and of individuals particularly interested, examined and reported upon the bar at the mouth of Saint John's River, Florida; the improvement of the Sacra- mento River; the improvement of the harbor of To- ronto, and of the port of Vera Cruz ; the improvement of the harbor of Tampico, and of Galveston, and the estuary of the Mersey, England. He was president of the Saint Louis Academy of Sciences for two terms. In 1881 he delivered an address before the British Association at York upon the improvements of the Mississippi, and also upon the Tehuantepec Ship Canal ; and in June, 1881, he was awarded the medal of the British Society of Arts, in token of its apprecia- tion of the services he had rendered to the science of engineering he being the first American upon whom this medal had been conferred.* From Port Eads the sea-wall of the Jetties was plainly visible, and as we floated down stream our minds were occupied with thoughts of the renowned La Salle, who, nearly two hundred years ago, was the first European to enter the Gulf of Mexico and plant the banner of France on its shores. * Since the preparation of these pages the country has deplored the loss by death of the illustrious engineer of the Mississippi Jet- ties, which occurred at Nassau, New Providence, on the eighth of March, 1887, at the age of sixty-seven years. NEW ORLEANS TO GULF OF MEXICO. Count Frontenac, at that time governor of Canada, was very desirous of continuing the exploration of the Mississippi which La Salle had already begun. It was his ambition, as a loyal Frenchman, to raise the ensign of France at the mouth of the Great River, and, in the name of his king, to take possession of the grandest valley on the globe. La Salle accordingly left Fort Frontenac, on the Saint Lawrence, July twenty-third, 1680, on his way to the Mississippi via the lakes. On the twenty- eighth of August following he launched his canoes on Lake Erie, ascended the Detroit River, passed through Lake Saint Clair to Lake Huron, and finally reached the station at Mackinaw the latter part of September. During the spring of 1681 he pushed his canoes through Lake Michigan to its southern extremity and found his way through the Chicago and Illinois rivers to the Mississippi. Continuing his course to the south- ward, he reached the Delta on the sixth of April, 1682, and drifting down the turbid current between its low and marshy shores, "the brackish water changed to brine, and the breeze grew fresh with the salt breath of the sea. The broad bosom of the Gulf then opened on his sight, tossing its restless billows limitless, voice- less, lonely, as when born of chaos, without a sail, without a sign of life. La Salle coasted the marshy borders of the Gulf and then, assembling his com- panions, on a spot of dry ground a short distance from the mouth of the river, he prepared a column on which was inscribed the arms of France. "The Frenchmen were mustered under arms. Then, amid volleys of musketry and shouts of Vive le Roi ! La Salle planted the column in its place, and, 438 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. standing near it, proclaimed iu a loud voice that, in the name of his king, he took possession of all that portion of North America which was drained by the Mississippi and its tributaries. On that day the monarchy of France received a stupendous accession. The fertile plains of Texas; the vast basin of the Mississippi, from its frozen northern springs to the sultry borders of Louisiana; from the woody ridges of the Alleghenies to the bare peaks of the Rocky Mountains, a region of savannas and forests, sun- cracked deserts and grassy prairies, watered by a thousand rivers and ranged by a thousand warlike tribes." At twenty minutes after three o'clock, on the after- noon of November fifteenth, 1881, the prow of the Alice met the salt waves of the Gulf as they came rushing defiantly against the' swift current of the mighty stream, and we were suddenly brought to a realization of the fact that our long voyage Down the Great River, from Source to Sea, was ended. CHAPTER XXXIII. THE FATHER OP WATERS. AVING observed many times in the course of our voyage that the Missis- sippi is perhaps the first river of the world, I now pause at its mouth, and, without hesitation, affirm that it is incontes- tably entitled to the proud designation given it by the Chippewas, of May-see-see-be THE FATHER OF RUNNING WATERS. In Order to support my position it will be necessary to ask the indulgence of the reader, and invite him to accompany me in my return to its source. Should he feel unduly taxed, however, and hesitate to accept my invitation, let me explain that our journey back to its head- waters will be less arduous and accomplished in much less time than that we have just concluded at the Balize. It has already been noted that the Lower Missis- sippi, through its numberless bayous, communicates with every quarter of Louisiana and with the sea. Through the Red River it reaches Arizona and New Mexico. By means of the Yazoo the Mississippi invites the commerce of Tennessee, and, as the former stream is navigable to its sources in Georgia, it may readily communicate by canal with rivers that discharge their (439) 440 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. waters into the Atlantic Ocean. The sources of the Torabigbee are also near those of the Yazoo, and, con- sequently, communication is easily opened with the rivers of Alabama, which have their outlets in the Bay of Mobile. As the debouchure of the Arkansas River, the Mis- sissippi becomes the great water-way for the transpor- tation of the exports of Colorado, Kansas and the State of Arkansas, and as the sources of the former are but a few hundred miles from those of the Colo- rado, it may be assumed that the Mississippi could easily communicate with the Gulf of California. The White and Saint Francis rivers penetrate far into the interior of Arkansas and Missouri a region of great fertility, and rich in its mines of lead, copper and iron. The Ohio, the largest eastern tributary of the Mis- sissippi, rises in New York and Western Pennsyl- vania, and will prove in the future, as it has in the past, a powerful lever in the development of the rich and flourishing States whose boundaries are its shores. Indeed, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Virginia and Western Pennsylvania are largely in- debted to this great tributary of the Mississippi for their happy commercial relations with the Eastern and Southern States. To continue with the Ohio, we may assume that, by means of the Monongahela, the Mississippi could, with the aid of the canal, communicate with the Po- tomac, which empties into Chesapeake Bay and thence into the Atlantic Ocean. The Allegheny River connects its waters by canal with Lake Erie, and thence through the Wei land THE FATHER OF WATERS. 441 Canal with Lake Ontario and the Saint Lawrence River, thus opening communication with New York, Canada and the great lakes, Huron, Michigan and Superior. Through the Kaskaskia, the Mississippi extends its commerce into the rich and populous State of Illinois. The Missouri, the largest tributary river of the world, might, through its remotest feeders, open com- munication between the Mississippi and the rivers Lewis and Clark, which flow into the Columbia, and would ultimately connect it with the Pacific Ocean. What a grand problem is here presented for the solu- tion of the future ! The products of the great State of Missouri; the fertile prairies of Kansas and Iowa; the vast plains of Nebraska; the unlimited wheat fields of Dakota, and the gold and silver mines of Wyoming, Montana and Idaho, must, in a large measure, reach the leading commercial cities of Amer- ica through the Mississippi the grandest water-way of the world. Through the Illinois River, the Mississippi com- municates, by means of the Michigan Canal, with the Chicago River, which empties into Lake Michigan ; while the proposed Hennepin Canal would open direct communication with this great inland sea, and thus invite the commerce of its sister lakes. The Des Moines, Rock and Turkey rivers extend far into the interior, and are navigable many miles from their confluence with the Mississippi. By means of the Wisconsin and Chippewa rivers, the Mississippi, aided by portages, communicates with the Fox and Menomonee rivers, through which it also reaches lakes Michigan and Superior. 442 DOWN THE GREAT RIVER. A few miles above Lake Pepin the Saint Croix River enters the Mississippi and pays tribute from the vast lumber regions of Wisconsin. The Minnesota River, formerly known as the Saint Peter, is the leading tributary of the Mississippi in Minnesota. This stream, like the Saint Croix, brings down yearly from the northern counties countless millions of logs from her seemingly inexhaustible pine forests. It has been shown in a previous chapter that the source of the Red River of the North is but seven miles from the source of the Mississippi. The Red River discharges its waters into Hudson's Bay, which communicates with the Arctic Ocean. The Saint Louis, which falls into Lake Superior, also takes its rise in this section of Minnesota. The reader will re- call that the source of the Mississippi can be reached by a canoe, and that, by a short portage, it may be re- launched on the Red River, and thus it is seen that the Gulf of Mexico greets the Arctic Ocean across the continent of North America a range of between four and five thousand miles. It is something to excite wonder that a river of such remarkable length should present no other ob- stacles to its navigation than Pokegama Falls, Saint Anthony Falls, Little Falls and the Keokuk Rapids; last of which, it may be observed, is no longer an obstruction, since the Government Canal now conveys through its waters the largest craft that finds its way to the Upper Mississippi. No one will question that this King of Rivers drains one of the most extensive, beautiful and fertile valleys of the globe ; and its thousand affluents mingle THE FATHER OF WATERS. 443 their accumulated floods with the mighty stream so quietly as to scarcely create a ripple. Through its numberless lagoons above the Falls of Saint Anthony, Nature has provided for the surplus water in time of freshets; but for which, the coun- try adjacent to the entire lower river would be completely devastated in the fall and spring. The hand of the Creator is also seen in the bayous of Mississippi, Arkansas and Louisiana; and finally at the Delta, where it discharges quietly into the sea, as from a common centre the accumulated waters of more than half a continent. What, then, is the conclusion ? Can another such river be found between the poles, which thus commu- nicates with every sea; which combines so much of the wonderful with so much of the useful ; which bears upon its bosom the freightage of both the old world and the new, and to which the future presents such a promising outlook ? The Amazon and the Nile surpass the Mississippi in length, and possibly in the volume of their waters. Still, in many, yea, all other particulars of far greater consequence, they cannot be compared with it. But apart from, and altogether beyond a consideration of, the length and width and depth of these great fivers of the world, we may consistently claim for the Mississippi a very decided superiority over its longer* rivals, inasmuch as, throughout its entire length, its banks are peopled with freemen, and industry meets with no restriction. THE END. . .; IS