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THE 
 
 LAND OF INHERITANCE; 
 
 OR 
 
 BIBLE SCENES REVISITED. 
 
 BY 
 
 LADY TOBIN. 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 BERNARD QUARITCH, 15 PICCADILLY. 
 
 1863. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2016 with funding from 
 
 University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Alternates 
 
 https://archive.org/details/landofinheritancOOtobi 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The subject of Eastern travel has been so fully and so ably 
 treated, especially within the last few years, that it might 
 appear presumptuous to offer the following narrative to 
 the public without some explanation of the peculiar 
 
 circumstances under which it was composed, and under 
 
 which the journey which it describes was undertaken. 
 
 Such an explanation would seem to be the more necessary, 
 as the author of the present volume has already, in a 
 former work, attempted to convey her impressions of a 
 first visit to the same deeply interesting countries. 
 
 The journey which the present narrative describes, was 
 undertaken by the author and myself in the hope of 
 
 obtaining some alleviation of the sorrow caused by a 
 severe domestic affliction. It was thought that a temporary 
 change of scene, and the abandonment, for a while, of a 
 home, every object of which recalled, but too vividly, the 
 memory of the dear and only child, the son whom we 
 had lost, might have some effect in preventing our minds 
 
VI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 from dwelling unduly on a bereavement, to which it was 
 our earnest desire to be reconciled, as the chastening 
 of our Heavenly Father. We had little hesitation in 
 selecting, as the scene of our intended journey, the region 
 which is associated in the heart of the Christian with a 
 thousand hallowed memories. Our former brief visit had 
 increased our anxiety to examine its sacred spots and 
 natural beauties more thoroughly ; and we felt that to 
 sojourn again in the land which the Redeemer had sanctified 
 with His presence, to view again the paths which His feet 
 had trod, the hills and shores which had echoed His voice, 
 would bring home with peculiar force to our hearts the 
 glorious truth that He had indeed, on behalf of His people, 
 triumphed over death, and that “ they sorrow not as others, 
 which have no hope.” In our deep grief we had been 
 consoled by the remembrance that though our dear son 
 had died in a far-distant land, he had fallen in the 
 service of his country, and in the gallant discharge of 
 his duty ;* but how little consolation would this reflection 
 have brought to our mind had we not known, as we did, 
 that his last hours were brightened by faith in a crucified 
 Saviour, and had we not been able to bless God for 
 
 * Arthur Lionel Tobin, Lieutenant, Royal Welch Fusiliers, was severely wounded 
 at the capture of Lucknow, 16th March, 1858, and died on the 12th October 
 following, in camp, near Lucknow. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Vll 
 
 the assured hope of being once more reunited to him 
 in a world where there shall be no more parting ! 
 
 On our return from our journey, which under the 
 Divine blessing in some measure effected the purpose 
 for which it had been undertaken, I was anxious that 
 the sorrow which a return to our home naturally 
 reawakened in a mother’s heart, should be soothed by 
 some stated and congenial occupation, and I suggested 
 that the notes which had been taken during our travels 
 should be put into the form of a continuous narrative 
 of a journey which had been so pleasing and beneficial. 
 It was not without considerable reluctance and diffidence, 
 which those who know her character will readily appreciate, 
 that the author complied with my request. Consciousness 
 of her own want of experience as a writer, and of the 
 difficulty of treating with anything like freshness a subject 
 so often handled by others, and once before by herself, 
 made her averse to appear again before the public. It 
 was only at my urgent entreaty that she consented to 
 compose the following simple but faithful record of our 
 wanderings in the East, and to agree to its publication. 
 
 Under the peculiar circumstances of the case, which I 
 have thought it due to her and to myself to state, I 
 
Vlll 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 trust that this unpretending work will be received with 
 kindness and consideration. I am sure it will be so 
 received by those who, from their own sad experience, 
 can sympathise with a mother sorrowing for an only child. 
 
 THOMAS TOBIN. 
 
 Ballin’collig, Cork : 
 October 1862. 
 
 Errata. 
 
 Page 0, line G,for wile read while. 
 
 » 143, „ 31 , for ground read ground plan. 
 
 j> 171, „ 16, for Presidency read Residency. 
 
 i, 377, „ 2, for a narrow channel that once adorned read a narrow channel leading from a fountain 
 
 that once adorned. 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 VISIT TO KARNAK BY MOONLIGHT 
 IIAREEM OF THE VICEROY OF EGYPT 
 ENCAMPMENT IN THE DESERT 
 INCIDENT IN THE DESERT 
 
 CONVENT OF ST. CATHARINE, MOUNT SINAI . 
 NAHR EL-LEBEN . 
 
 FALLS OF AFKA .... 
 
 STORM OF WIND AT BSHERREH 
 
 . 120 
 . 168 
 . 186 
 . 195 
 . 196 
 . 416 
 . 417 
 . 420 
 
TIIE 
 
 LAND OF INHERITANCE. 
 
 Monday , November 12th, 1860. — A heavy adverse gale had blown, 
 with very little intermission, ever since we left the busy port of Mar- 
 seilles, eight days ago ; and bitter was our disappointment last evening, 
 just before sunset — when the long, low, featureless line of the Egyptian 
 coast had become plainly visible from the mast-head of the “Vectis,” — 
 to hear the gallant captain’s sentence of yet another night upon the 
 stormy sea ! Our fate seemed hard, perhaps ; for, one hour more of 
 daylight, and we might have safely entered the harbour of Alexandria, 
 through the narrow rock-bound channel commanded by Fort Marabout. 
 
 On arriving at Alexandria, the principal objects that attract the 
 stranger’s eye, are — first of all, the numerous windmills, extending in a 
 line along the flat sandy shore to the westward ; then the handsome 
 marine palace of the Viceroy; the naval arsenal ; and the endless variety 
 of shipping, of every size and form — Egyptian, Turkish, Greek, English 
 and French — from the stately man-of-war to the tiny row-boat; the 
 light and graceful felucca, peerless among them all, with latteen sail, 
 and turbaned Arab crew, fresh from the mighty Nile, and duly prepared 
 to start upon her upward course once more. 
 
 The sun shone with all the gorgeous brilliancy of an Oriental clime, 
 as we slowly steamed towards our place of anchorage, a distance of 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 nearly four English miles from the small island on which Fort Marabout 
 is built ; and the sky was of that deep and cloudless blue seen only in 
 southern latitudes. Our Indian passengers were the first to go on 
 shore, lest they should miss the railway train to Cairo ; while we con- 
 tentedly remained on deck, enjoying the gay and busy scene, and well 
 protected by a thick awning from the sun’s almost overpowering rays. 
 Some Egyptian Arabs, with wild cries, and strangely picturesque cos- 
 tume, were assisting to unload the ship, to the infinite terror and dismay 
 of a fine English pointer dog, who looked wistfully and imploringly at 
 me, as if asking my protection, and the meaning of such unusual sights 
 and sounds. At last, Salvo Belluti, our Maltese servant, who accom- 
 panied us on our former Eastern tour, appeared alongside with a boat. 
 Our dragoman, Paolo Xuzzo, also a Maltese, had this morning early 
 gone on shore with the luggage, and now returned to help us. We 
 most gladly left the steamer, and rapidly sped our way, among boats 
 and ships of all degrees and kinds, the Viceroy’s unwieldy man-of-war 
 in striking contrast with the poor fisherman’s light and buoyant barge ; 
 and when we once again beheld the lines of loaded and unloaded 
 camels, donkeys with their merry drivers, turbaned ample-robed Turks 
 and Egyptians, and those black or white moving bundles called women ; 
 to say nothing of the purely Oriental style of the older buildings, with 
 many a beautiful minaret rising clear against the deep blue sky — 
 would that the accents of a better faith than that of Islam were heard 
 from those fair minarets ! — with all these welcome scenes and well- 
 remembered voices round us, we both exclaimed at once, that the 
 labour and desag remens of our long journey had truly not been spent 
 in vain. The first point to which perforce we steered, was the Passport 
 Office, where, as might be expected, the volley of tongues was really 
 terrific. A little further, and we were brought to bay by an important- 
 looking personage, the British consul’s janissary, whose office it was to 
 pass the luggage. ’This necessary duty he was civil enough to perform 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 3 
 
 without any inconvenient examination, Paolo promptly explaining the 
 mystery by a sotto voce , “ I just put some little things in his hand.” A 
 carriage waited on the pier to convey us to the Hotel d’Europe, kept 
 by M. Zech, now landlord of Sheppard’s Hotel, Cairo. Alexandria is, 
 alas ! rapidly assuming the aspect of a European city. With my taste 
 and admiration for almost all that is Eastern, I sincerely lament the 
 unnatural change. Wide streets and open squares are not, and cannot 
 be, to the advantage of those who live beneath the burning sun of 
 Egypt ; and although coffee-laden camels still pace with measured tread 
 the densely-crowded bazaars, or other and more spacious thoroughfares ; 
 though the Alexandrian women, Europeans excepted, still shuffle along, 
 closely enveloped from head to foot ; though donkeys and donkey-boys 
 yet retain their Egyptian nationality ; it is really too provoking to see 
 the most ordinary European hack carriages parading at every turn, 
 with ugly glaring numbers standing out in full and bold relief upon 
 their doors and panels. But this is not all. There are actually numbers 
 of the “ Shoe Brigade ” in several streets of Alexandria, quite as willing 
 and able to exercise their dingy functions as any of their London brethren, 
 and that at all hours of the day. I suppose the generality of people 
 are heard declaring, “ How wonderfully Alexandria has improved of 
 late ! ” I must however beg to differ from all those who either speak or 
 think thus prosily ; unless perchance I make one single exception as 
 regards the “ Hotel de f Europe.” Romance may carry one a long way, 
 and through very many difficulties, but few can exactly make up their 
 minds to like personal discomfort, and in truth there has been a great 
 change for the better since M. Zech came here. I am not ashamed to 
 confess that we found both an excellent breakfast, and a well arranged 
 hot-bath extremely refreshing after our long and tedious voyage. In 
 the afternoon my husband went with Paolo to book our baggage, per 
 railroad, to Cairo, and declare its value — another piece of incongruous 
 civilisation. This was speedily accomplished, and we then hired donkeys, 
 
4 
 
 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 as gaily caparisoned as scarlet velvet saddles and tasseled bridles coidd 
 make them, and away we rode, at the usually quick walking pace of 
 these obedient little animals, straight to “ Pompey’s Pillar.” And there 
 that ancient monument still stands erect, amid mounds which cover the 
 ruins of old Alexandria ; as it has already stood for century after century, 
 the wonder and admiration of each succeeding age. We rode around 
 its base, and vainly tried to realise its lofty height, one hundred feet 
 above the eminence which forms a sort of platform, and from whence 
 may be obtained an extensive view of the famous Lake Mareotis. We 
 now passed onwards to a far different scene, that told of modern, not of 
 bygone days. Snugly moored to the right bank of the Mahmoudieh 
 Canal, lay our good old Nile boat, “ Clothilde,” newly painted and most 
 temptingly fitted up both within and without ; all prepared, moreover, to 
 spread her pretty wing-like sails, and fly away far south towards Nubia. 
 The same Reis (Captain), that accompanied us seven years ago to the 
 First Cataract, still commands this handsome Dahabeeh, and cordial was 
 his welcome as we stepped on board to-day, while he proudly called our 
 attention to sundry improvements lately made by the owner. The beds 
 were covered with snowy white curtains and counterpanes, the wide 
 and cushioned divans had just been dressed out in gaily flowered chintz, 
 there was a small pianoforte, and — thanks to former voyagers, even a 
 small library. The Reis would fain have persuaded us to “ take ship ” 
 once more under his guidance ; but who would willingly encounter a 
 second time that long and irksome cruise, even to revisit Thebes and 
 Philoe ! From the Mahmoudieh Canal, which was all busily astir with 
 passenger and cargo-boats, and where we saw a fine herd of buffaloes 
 watering, we went to “Cleopatra’s Needles.” And they too remain as in 
 days of yore ; while strangers come and go, and generation after genera- 
 tion passes by unheeded and forgotten. These two great obelisks mark 
 the site of the Ccesarium, or Temple of Caesar, which stood upon the 
 eastern harbour, and was probably built on the identical spot once 
 
ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 5 
 
 occupied by that famous Alexandrian Library, containing 400,000 
 volumes ; destroyed accidentally by fire, during the wars between Csesar 
 and Antony, and the loss of which has long been so deeply lamented in 
 the world of literature. 
 
 We thought the sun a little too powerful, although the heat was 
 tempered by a gentle wind. Our guide informed us that much rain 
 had fallen yesterday, as indeed was evident by the frequent pools of 
 water that lay along our route. There is a handsome Greek Church on 
 the road to Pompey’s Pillar, and near to it stands the Jews’ Synagogue, 
 likewise a fine building. The Anglican Church is unfortunately falling 
 fast to decay, the Maltese stone used in its construction being altogether 
 unsuited to the climate of Egypt. This is much to be regretted, for the 
 design of this church is very beautiful, and a large sum of money has 
 undoubtedly been spent upon it. In all directions lizards were crawling 
 about among the stones and along the sandy places, enjoying the bright 
 sunshine. We passed several flocks of pretty goats, with long drooping 
 ears, and finished our excursion by riding through the principal bazaars. 
 These are extensive and well supplied, the Turkish bazaar being by far 
 the most attractive in general appearance, owing to the varieties of 
 brilliant colour, and the profusion of rich embroidery and sparkling tinsel 
 which characterise the stalls. Paolo greeted our return with the im- 
 portant news that Sheikh Hassan, one of the four dreaded chiefs of the 
 Alawin Arabs, and the most treacherous of them all, has lately died. 
 This seemingly unexpected event may possibly render our purposed visit 
 to Petra a less doubtful and perilous question than it has been considered 
 hitherto. 
 
 Tuesday, November 13 th . — There was no particular fault to find with 
 the beds ; which, though hard as a board, were perfectly clean, and 
 indeed almost any change from steam-packet miseries must necessarily 
 have been to our advantage. Still we found it quite impossible to sleep 
 soundly. The night was very warm, and loud noises in the streets 
 
THE DELTA. 
 
 6 
 
 were incessant from dark to sunrise. We were not much plagued by 
 mosquitoes ; but others, not so experienced as ourselves, and therefore, 
 less inclined to take needful precautions, paid dearly for their thought- 
 lessness. After an early breakfast, a carriage conveyed us to the 
 railway station, where we waited nearly half an hour, but had no 
 lack of amusement or novelty to wile away the time. A little boy, of 
 ten or twelve years old, coolly smoked his cigar — no freshly-acquired 
 habit evidently — while he offered for sale a tray of cakes and sweetmeats. 
 There was a gazelle at this station, the first I had ever seen except at a 
 distance, kept by one of the employes as a pretty plaything ; a gentle, 
 timid, graceful creature, with its large, soft, pensive eyes. This poor 
 little animal was all the more interesting from having had one of its 
 slender legs broken by some unlucky accident. 
 
 At nine o’clock we started. The distance between Alexandria and 
 Cairo is estimated at about one hundred and forty miles. The carriages 
 
 — English built — are exceedingly roomy, commodious, and handsome. 
 They have double roofs, which ensure a constant current of air, and 
 thorough ventilation. They are painted white, both inside and out, and 
 are furnished with green Venetian blinds and jalousies. As we skirted the 
 shallow, far-spreading Lake Mareotis, Pompey’s Pillar appeared on our 
 left, and we caught a momentary distant glimpse of the fair “ Clothilde,” 
 as she still lay at anchor in the Mahmoudieh Canal. In the course of 
 conversation, Mr. Parkes, Civil Engineer — a gentleman deputed by our 
 Government to erect lighthouses on the Eed Sea — told us there was a 
 long and rocky mountain ridge, eight hundred feet high, crossing the line 
 of road between Cairo and Suez. We saw several wretched Arab villages 
 
 — that triangular tract of rich land called the Delta, containing nearly all 
 the population and produce of Lower Egypt. Every inch of ground 
 appears to be carefully cultivated, and the crops are generally abundant. 
 The villages are all miserable collections of mud hovels, some of which 
 are discernible as human dwellings only when close at hand, although a 
 
TIIE DELTA. 
 
 7 
 
 few of them look picturesque enough at a short distance, wherever they 
 can haply boast the grandeur of a Santon’s tomb, or a small clump of 
 date or acacia trees. . An unusual want of rain this year, is said to have 
 caused much sickness in the neighbourhood of Alexandria. The peculiar 
 buzzing sound of the large Egyptian water-wheels was heard unceasingly 
 in all directions. Oxen were patiently treading out the corn. The 
 plough was busily employed, and we even saw a camel and a buffalo 
 yoked together, though camels are seldom used for draught by the 
 Egyptians, being, as are also donkeys, their favourite beasts of burden. 
 We passed several sugar and cotton plantations. The cotton produced 
 in this country is said to be of very superior quality. Here and 
 there piles of newly-made bricks, large and small, were baking in the 
 sun. Having casually asked one of our fellow-travellers, whether the 
 present Viceroy might be considered a humane ruler, I was told in reply 
 the following story, preceded nevertheless by the very just remark that 
 compared with most of his Highness’s predecessors, he was doubtless a 
 well meaning and amiable prince. The Viceroy, not many years ago, 
 arranged a party of pleasure to go up the Nile, in about twenty steamers ; 
 and at the same time gave strict orders to the captain of each vessel, 
 that on no account whatever was anybody, not especially invited to join 
 in the expedition, to be allowed on board. It so happened that some 
 person very daringly chose to mingle in the throng, hoping to pass 
 entirely unobserved. The luckless captain of that steamer soon finding 
 his unbidden guest, was much too compassionate to put him at once on 
 shore, where no shelter was at hand; and only waited until he should 
 reach the first town or more important village on the river’s bank. 
 Meanwhile, some malicious foe informed the Pacha that his order had 
 been disobeyed. The captain forthwith was summoned to the royal 
 presence. His explanation and excuses were alike unheeded. The 
 fearfully cruel bastinado — forty strokes — was summarily inflicted, not 
 only upon the guilty captain, but immediately afterwards upon the 
 
 B 4 
 
8 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 nineteen others, “ to teach them what a Pasha’s order meant ! ” As 
 might be expected, the real culprit was deservedly left to his fate, but 
 whether he escaped a severe beating the narrator of this tale of heartless 
 despotism could not exactly tell. Towards midday we found the sun so 
 powerful, and flies and mosquitoes so annoying, that we were reluctantly 
 compelled to close one of the jalousies , and thus exclude the view to our 
 right. About noon we met a gay wedding party. The bride, seated on 
 a camel, was effectually concealed by the usual silk canopy held over her 
 by four male attendants. Our third stoppage, which occurred at one 
 o’clock, was at Kafr Sayat, where we remained a full half hour, to 
 enable those who “ fainted by the way ” to have a good dinner at five 
 shillings a head. At this place the railroad crosses the western or 
 Rosetta branch of the Kile. At two o’clock we stopped again, at Tanta, 
 an important-looking town, said to contain about 30,000 inhabitants. 
 It was very difficult to learn accurately the names of the successive 
 smaller stations along our route through this gently undulating and 
 beautifully fertile “ Land of Goshen.” Here one has happily no tiresome 
 “ Railway Guide,” no Egyptian “ Bradshaw,” to torment one’s under- 
 standing with an endless multiplicity of hitherto obscure or newly-risen 
 localities. Near Tanta, we crossed the eastern or Damietta branch of 
 the Nile, where a sort of fair or festival was going on by the river side, 
 for we saw several flags flying, and gaily dressed people of both sexes 
 sitting in picturesque groups, or strolling leisurely to and fro. Then we 
 passed over the bridge of “ Barrage,” and reached the Cairo terminus at 
 a quarter to five. Between Cairo and London time there is a difference 
 of nearly two hours. A carriage waited for us at the station, and at a 
 tearingly rapid pace we drove to Sheppard’s, now Zcch’s hotel, nearly 
 demolishing on our way a portly old gentleman with ample turban and 
 wide flowing robes, who was quietly enjoying his afternoon ride on 
 donkeyback. Punctuality can of course scarcely be expected in the 
 East, and Egyptian railways form no exception to the general rule. 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 9 
 
 They travel very slowly, and although five hours is the nominal time of 
 transit between Alexandria and Cairo, our journey on this occasion 
 occupied nearly eight hours. 
 
 Wednesday , November 14 th. — Our beds were much more comfortable 
 than those of some other travellers, from all we heard them say, and the 
 mosquito netting suspended over them is certainly very superior to curtains 
 of fine muslin ; since the former admits the air more freely, and is equally 
 efficacious in keeping out unwelcome visitors. With regard to the table 
 d’hote, it is by no means so good as it ought to be, consistent with the 
 wide-spread reputation of this much-frequented house, where all the year 
 round there is a constant influx of strangers from every country in the 
 world. During the afternoon we rode along the Shoobra road, where 
 the fine acacia trees, planted by the late Ibrahim Pasha, form on both 
 sides a close and very grateful shade. A summer palace for the Viceroy 
 is in course of erection, about a mile from Cairo, with a telegraph leading 
 into one of the out-buildings ; and several other handsome dwelling- 
 houses have of late sprmig up in this direction, the “Belgravia” of the 
 modern Cairenes. We called upon Mrs. Lieder, to whose kind and 
 valuable assistance almost every English traveller in Egypt is so deeply 
 indebted ; and who, in the course of five-and-twenty years, has collected 
 a choice and interesting museum of Egyptian antiquities. Among 
 those objects that are comparatively modern, we were particularly 
 struck with a copper wine jar of early Christian times, found among 
 the ruins of an old Coptic church, and given to Mrs. Lieder by the 
 Coptic patriarch. Its form exactly resembles those tall ewers generally 
 seen in the very oldest pictures; and, moreover, it is in excellent 
 preservation. 
 
 Thursday , November 15 th . — Bode through the principal bazaars, and 
 saw in one of the European shops a few good specimens of Ethiopian 
 filigree work, the prettiest of which was the frame of a small toilet glass 
 of oval shape. Our worthy Maltese dragoman lias an instinctive horror 
 
10 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 of a crowd, and would not on any account allow us to pass through some 
 open space where a fair or market was going on. The title “ Sheikh ” 
 seems sadly fallen from its high estate in these degenerate days ; indeed, 
 it has become a far more common designation here than even our own 
 familiar term “ Esquire ” in Merry England. At Cairo, in particular, is 
 this the case ; for soon we heard, to our great amazement, of an all- 
 important and very useful personage, well known to everybody as “ Sheikh 
 of the Donkeys,” just as at home we should speak of “ Master Builder,” 
 “ Master Chimney Sweeper,” or “Master Tailor.” In the Jews’ Quarter 
 we passed through several low archways thrown across the narrow filthy 
 streets, and remarked the miserable exterior of nearly all the dwelling- 
 houses, — a wise precaution, doubtless. Paolo and the donkey-boys alike 
 wondered why we wished so much to go that way. Ah, poor despised 
 race of Israel ! the day will yet arrive — and who can tell how soon that 
 day may dawn ! — when they shall appear once more a chosen happy 
 people ; when the Son of Righteousness shall rise before them with heal- 
 ing on His wings ; when, no longer trodden down beneath the scornful 
 feet of the proud and pitiless Gentile, they shall in truth become the 
 pride and joy of all the earth ; mourning, while they look on Him whom 
 they have pierced, while rejoicing evermore in His great and wonderful 
 salvation. Yes, were every other promise to Abraham’s seed forgotten 
 and put away, that one prayer has yet to be fully answered, “ Father, 
 forgive them, for they know not what they do.” 
 
 Friday , November 1 6th . — The public fomitains at Cairo are very 
 handsome, particularly those of more ancient date, in the centre of the 
 town, where numbers of people may be seen at all hours eagerly allaying 
 their thirst by drinking water through brass spouts, or filling goatskins, 
 and their earthen jars and bottles. We met a large funeral procession 
 to-day ; men and women were chanting and wailing in the most dis- 
 cordant tones imaginable, and the corpse and bier were entirely covered 
 with scarlet cloth. Then appeared in quick succession two wedding 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 11 
 
 parties ; the respective brides eacli walking beneath her silken canopy, 
 with her numerous train of followers, and her attendant band of jingling 
 music. But one of these nuptial processions happened on this occasion 
 to be a far more imposing affair than the other ; inasmuch as it was pre- 
 ceded by a very young and pretty child on horseback, both horse and 
 rider gaudily decked out in tinsel and bright colours. This child was on 
 its way to undergo the solemn rite of circumcision, and the poor uncon- 
 scious little creature was eating some dainty morsel with evident relish, 
 and seemed perfectly contented and happy. The custom is a very usual 
 one, of thus taking advantage of a marriage festival, when children are to 
 be circumcised, and one expensive entertainment is prudently made 
 thereby to answer a double purpose. 
 
 Saturday , November 11th . — Walked across the Great Square to see a 
 collection of ancient Greek and other coins belonging to a Maltese in the 
 European bazaar, but my husband pronounced them to be, with few 
 exceptions, of little worth. We then strolled about the Usbe&eeh, where 
 there was on all sides much of novelty to attract our notice. Parties of 
 two or three were seated here and there under the largest and most 
 shady trees, some playing games of dominoes, others smoking the long 
 chibouque or twisted narghileh ; while widespread circles watched with 
 wondering gaze the dextrous sleight of hand of some mysterious conjuror, 
 or still more clever snake-charmer ; or ever and anon spectators were 
 attracted towards a small and sparkling jet d'eau, holding high aloft by 
 unseen power — few could tell why — a bone or ivory ring, and twirling 
 it round and round with mad velocity. In one direction a tolerable 
 band of music played some lively airs ; and in the more sequestered parts 
 of this immense square nothing could be more picturesque than the 
 groups of men, women, and children, sitting beneath the fine acacia or 
 tamarisk trees with which the Usbe&eeli is thickly planted. The myrtle 
 hedges form an excellent border to that labyrinth of walk which extends 
 and winds in every direction, and the odour of jasmine is delightfully 
 
12 
 
 CAIUO. 
 
 fragrant, go where one may. We called this afternoon upon the Eev. 
 Mr. Eeichardt, whose house is situated in the Jews’ Quarter. Being the 
 Jews’ Sabbath, there was hardly any stir or traffic in the streets. We 
 saw some merry, bright-eyed children, with fantastically becoming head- 
 dresses. They were all dark complexioned, save one little girl, who had 
 light and reddish hair. From thence we rode round by the Citadel, and 
 past the Tombs of the Caliphs— so magnificent even in their decay. 
 Despite thick clouds of sand, which in themselves were rather disagreeable, 
 the cool air that blew direct from the Desert was this hot day both in- 
 vigorating and refreshing. We met a long line of donkeys laden with 
 full waterskins, the contents of which their owners sell to the neighbour- 
 ing Arabs, who pay a piastre and a half for each skin. In the city one 
 skinful of water costs one piastre only. There are not quite so many 
 dogs lying all day long about the streets of Cairo as in those of Con- 
 stantinople ; but still great numbers of the same genus , useful annuals in 
 their way, may be found here also, nearly all alike, with the same sneaking, 
 cowardly, half-wolfish look. The cats are small, generally black and white, 
 or brown and white, and a stain of red paint or henna is often daubed 
 upon the white patches. 
 
 Very bad accounts from China have been received by to-day’s mail, 
 and among the new arrivals we saw two young Chinese nurserymaids, 
 in charge of European children, the former looking just like porcelain 
 figures that ought to stand upon some quaint old Indian cabinet. 
 Hamed, the Nubian, our former servant, came here betimes this 
 morning ; dressed in the usual coarse, white cotton shirt, a new red 
 tarboosh (cap), and with a showy ring and chain, which he said some 
 gentleman had given him ; he looked very clean, and his smiling, happy 
 face told us plainly that the world had not frowned severely upon him 
 heretofore. He is much improved in speaking English, and apparently 
 considers himself quite equal to all the responsible duties of a dragoman. 
 The grateful creature called to see us yesterday, but came again to-day 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 13 
 
 to offer a present of dried dates. I gave him in return a smart ring of 
 ^Birmingham manufacture, with which lie seemed greatly pleased. 
 
 We are told a funeral will take place from this hotel to-night under 
 
 very sad circumstances. Colonel homeward bound, on sick leave 
 
 from India, died here two days ago, friendless and alone. Upon 
 Mr. Calvert, British Consul, devolves the melancholy duty of his 
 interment. 
 
 Sunday , November 18 th. — Attended morning service at the Mission 
 House of the London Church Missionary Society. Prayers were read 
 by Eev. Mr. Eeichardt and Eev. Mr. Washington, and the former 
 preached from Philippians, iii. 8, “ Yea doubtless, and I count all things 
 but loss for the excellency of the knowledge of Christ Jesus my Lord : 
 for whom I have suffered the loss of all things, and do count them but 
 dung, that I may win Christ.” The congregation amounted perhaps to 
 sixty persons altogether. In the afternoon a small congregation 
 assembled for Divine service at the American Presbyterian Mission 
 House. A beautiful prayer was offered up on behalf of the inhabitants 
 of Egypt, by the officiating minister, whose benign countenance, forcible 
 and fluent language, and well chosen forms of expression, fully atoned 
 for a rather unpolished delivery, and roughness of tone in his diction. 
 Eomans viii. was the subject of his excellent and practical sermon. 
 
 Monday , November 1 9th . — The day began by a visit from Mr. and 
 Mrs. Eeichardt. Mr. Eeichardt is a converted German Jew, an ordained 
 clergyman of the Church of England, sent as missionary to Cairo by the 
 London Society for promoting Christianity among the Jews ; and his 
 very pleasing wife is a Syrian Protestant, a fact which recent tragedies 
 have stamped with tenfold interest. In the afternoon we rode to Boulac, 
 the port of Cairo, saw Mr. and Mrs. Joade “ under weigh ” for Upper 
 Egypt, and went on board two other handsome boats, all duly prepared 
 for a cruise. One of these has just been engaged by five of our com- 
 pagnons de voyage , who have named their dahabeeli the “ Crinoline ; ” 
 
14 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 moreover purchasing a veritable Parisian “ cage,” even here at Grand 
 Cairo ! and already hoisting it, in cruel mockery of ladies’ fashions, high 
 at their long yard-arm. Paolo would fain persuade to let him take 
 us also up the Nile, but to his evident disgust, we are inexorable, and 
 cannot bear the idea of going again. Our two donkey-boys, Said and 
 Ali, amuse us unceasingly by their extreme humour and sharpness, and 
 it is most surprising to hear what a strange smattering they have 
 acquired of almost every language in the world. I asked Said whether 
 he ever went to school. “ Yes, Sitt, (lady) I go once, but I get no ting 
 but de whip ; more good be donkey-boy, den I get money ! ” In an 
 evening, chairs are set upon the wide platform in front of the hotel, 
 and we very often sit there after sunset, at the close of a hot day, 
 breathing the cool air, while many bright lanterns pass by, to and fro, 
 their fitful glare in perfect keeping with the moving and ever varied 
 scene around. 
 
 Tuesday , November 20 th . — After breakfast, while our rooms were 
 preparing, I ventured to explore the corridors of this immense hotel. 
 The travellers’ apartments occupy two floors only, but the entire building, 
 with its yards and out offices, covers a very large space of ground. 
 In the course of my wanderings I have contrived to make friends with 
 two charming black children, part of a family of Nubian slaves — a 
 little girl about ten years old, in a loose brown dress, with glittering 
 ornaments on her head, neck and arms, and a boy of five or six, fat 
 and chubby, dressed on warm days in a white cotton shirt, and at 
 other times in a brown woollen one. Our friends of the “ Crinoline,” 
 have more than once made excursions to shoot snipe near the Barrage, 
 and on each occasion returned with a plentiful supply of game. 
 They have also been kind enough to make our rooms quite gay 
 with bouquets of flowers from the Pasha’s gardens at Shoobra. To-day 
 they have taken due advantage of a favourable north wind to set sail 
 on their voyage far into Nubia, and hope even to reach Dongola. 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 15 
 
 Miss Whateley, daughter of the present Archbishop of Dublin, has 
 very recently succeeded, notwithstanding inconceivable difficulties, in 
 setting on foot an infant school, for the poor neglected children of 
 Moslem parents. When she first mentioned her charitable project to a 
 few English residents here, who were well disposed to help her, they all, — 
 and some from many years’ personal experience — considered the attempt 
 a hopeless one, and tried their utmost to dissuade her from it. Dor the 
 untiring energy by which Miss Whateley has ultimately gained her point, 
 she must be gifted from on High with a full measure of that simple 
 trusting Faith which can indeed “ do all things,” but which so few 
 Christians have learnt in such an eminent degree to realise. 
 
 That adornment of Modern Cairo, the great square of the Uzbe/ceeh, 
 contains, according to Sir Gardner Wilkinson, about 450,000 square 
 feet; and is laid out partly in flower gardens, intersected by shady 
 walks between beautiful hedges of myrtle and sweet-smelling jas- 
 mine, and partly in fields and vegetable gardens, for which the Pasha 
 receives a yearly rental of 85 . per acre, according to English calculation. 
 A broad road leads through the centre, passing over a bridge at each 
 end ; and a canal has been cut entirely round it, to drain off the water 
 during the inundation of the Nile. This evening we had the gratification 
 of seeing a small party of Towarah Arabs encamped in front of our 
 hotel ; and we gladly renewed acquaintance with them as they sat 
 around their watch-fire — one of the number mounting guard, and eight 
 tired camels lying in a circle, desert fashion, their faces turned towards 
 the cheerful blaze. These swarthy Bedouins — ill at ease, earnestly 
 longing to depart and leave the city far behind — had just arrived with 
 Major Macdonald from Arabia Petnea, where that gentleman has spent 
 the last three summers. He is said to have procured several curious and 
 valuable manuscripts at the convent of St. Catherine on Mount Sinai, 
 and has also succeeded in discovering some mines of fine turquoises. 
 
 It is satisfactory to hear that the Egyptian slave-markets are 
 
16 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 now abolished. Those who already possess slaves, are, indeed, allowed 
 to keep them, but the latter may at any time demand their freedom. 
 They are, however, still sold privately, but the sale is illegal. 
 
 Wednesday , November 21st. — This day has been warmer than any 
 other since we came to Egypt. Our present sitting-room looks into 
 the Uzbe&eeh, and of course affords a more cheerful view than we can 
 obtain from the windows of our bed- room, which open upon the gloomy 
 court-yard of the hotel. Still, where one has but a choice of evils, even 
 dullness of prospect may well atone for the burning glare of an Egyptian 
 sun hour after hour, bringing myriads of tormenting flies to disturb one’s 
 peace, and entirely prevent continued occupation. The noise from 
 without — there is quite noise enough within too — is deafening and in- 
 cessant day and night. Shall we reach Petra ? Paolo Nuzzo declares he is 
 able and willing to conquer all conceivable difficulties, and brave every 
 danger to take us there, and is very enthusiastic in his description of 
 the “ beautiful sculptuitions ,” to be seen at the rock-hewn city ; while 
 he inwardly prays that events may compel us to forego our ardently 
 desired visit to that ancient capital of Edom ; at least such is the 
 impression his words and demeanour have left upon our minds at the 
 end of half an hour’s close consultation. 
 
 Our ride to Old Cairo to-day led us through the midst of a very large 
 encampment of the Viceroy’s cavalry. Men and horses were picketed in 
 all directions, amid clouds of dust and sand. The horses appeared in 
 good condition, and some of them were exceedingly fine animals. At 
 half-past four o’clock we saw them taken to the river-side to water. 
 When the bugle sounded, down went a long line of heads simultaneously 
 to the stream, and the very moment the music ceased, they with one 
 accord left off drinking. We remarked seven different coloured uniforms, 
 but all had the full white petticoat-trowsers, and red sashes round their 
 waists. Their arms were curved swords, and some were drilling with 
 long lances. There were jackets of claret colour, white, green, orange, 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 17 
 
 grey, blue, and the most brilliant crimson. These last are quite new, and 
 the men who wear this uniform are all Nubians. Every soldier wore 
 the red tarboosh , but their feet were very badly dressed in “ high- 
 low ” boots of unblacked leather, and without any sort of fastenings. We 
 quickly passed on through part of Old Cairo, and came out upon the 
 Nile, opposite the island of Ehoda. Water-melons were for sale in great 
 abundance, which — with coarse flat loaves of bread and sour milk — 
 form at this season a principal article of food among the poorer classes. 
 It is very curious to see the immense cargoes of barley-straw which 
 come down the Nile from Upper Egypt for feeding horses. The straw 
 is sent from thence finely chopped, and very firmly packed — like huge 
 masses of rock — on two boats fastened side by side, and connected by 
 planks of wood, which form a steady platform between the two vessels. 
 Near Old Cairo are the large and commodious barracks erected by the 
 late Mohammed Ah, adjacent to which is the College of Dervishes, and 
 the School of Medicine and Hospital, so ably directed by the excellent 
 Dr. Burguieres Bey. The water of the Nile is conveyed direct from 
 Old Cairo to the citadel by an aqueduct. 
 
 Thursday, November 22nd.— Even this dreary court-yard affords its 
 quota of interest ; for a large bath is just now in process of manufacture 
 there. It seems a very slow business, and we are much amused in 
 watching the tedious manner of melting lead, a poor patient child having 
 harder work than anybody else, as he is kept for hours at a time 
 blowing a great pair of skin bellows with two clumsy wooden handles 
 before a charcoal fire. 
 
 To-day we saw the schools belonging to the Jews’ Mission. The 
 master is an Italian ; the mistress, an English converted Jewess, was 
 sent out here not long ago by the London Society. The number of boy- 
 pupils is at present thirty-eight, and of girls forty-seven. We heard some 
 of these children read in English, which they seemed to understand 
 pretty well, judging from their answers when we questioned them. 
 
 c 
 
is 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 Mr. Beichardt then took us to the shop where periodicals, books, and 
 tracts are sold, contributed for circulation by the “London Jews’ Society” 
 and the “ Church Missionary Society.” The middle-aged man in charge 
 of this shop is a converted Israelite, who came here from Jerusalem 
 very soon after the late lamented Mr. Nicholayson had savingly taught 
 him, through Divine assistance, that one most blessed and all-glorious 
 Gospel truth, that the long “despised and rejected of men” is indeed 
 the only Saviour of the Jew and Gentile world. For many years has this 
 intelligent convert given undeniable proofs of being a sincere believer in 
 the doctrines of Christianity ; and we had an interesting conversation with 
 him, whereby he touchingly expressed his ardent desire, in common 
 with all true Christians, for the speedy restoration of outcast Israel to 
 the “goodly land” of their inheritance ; where He who has all right to 
 dominion will one day “ suddenly come to His temple, and reign before 
 His ancients gloriously.” Well may we add, “Lord, how long?” 
 Surely, as startling events crowd one upon another in quick succession 
 in these “ latter days,” we are forced to believe the near fulfilment of 
 those clear prophetic words, — “The night is far spent, the day is at 
 hand.” 
 
 This worthy man told us he had never been molested or in any way 
 annoyed by his own people since he came to Cairo, and that even the 
 house he now occupies was found for him by one of his Jewish neigh- 
 bours. There are 2000 Jews in this city, for the most part in easy 
 circumstances, nearly all of them money-changers, with their hearts so 
 entirely set upon “ getting gain,” that even young children have 
 apparently no other idea, and can rarely be taught to realise the 
 value of higher objects of aspiration. In spite of many hindrances, 
 Mr. Beichardt is much respected by the generality of these Cairene 
 Jews, and several of them come to the little shop from time to time to 
 buy books, and are very willing to converse with the missionary on 
 religious topics. Nevertheless, the work of real conversion proceeds but 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 19 
 
 slowly, and often indeed is the net drawn up where nothing has been 
 caught. This is doubtless a hard and bitter trial ; but we know of a 
 certainty, from our Lord’s own precious Word of Truth, that he who 
 offers even a cup of cold water in the name of Jesus “ shall in no wise 
 lose his reward.” At Cairo, as elsewhere throughout the East, a newly- 
 converted Jew is ahnost universally obliged to go away, finding neither 
 encouragement nor employment among his own brethren, and more 
 than ever contemned by the scornful Moslem from the mere fact of 
 changing his religious views. 
 
 We rode this afternoon along the banks of a wide canal, which 
 conveys the Nile water direct from Old Cairo to the city, and thence 
 passes on to Matareeh. At this time of year it is nearly full to overflowing, 
 but when the inundation entirely subsides, Paolo informs us, it will be 
 quite dry for many weeks. We passed three circular pigeon-houses, 
 very neatly built of mud, in shape something like enormous beehives. 
 At one spot some people were employed in tempering clay, and forming 
 it into bricks to be dried by the sun. From daily experience we find the 
 steady, quick walking pace of the Egyptian donkeys particularly agree- 
 able, and we are far less fatigued after riding them for several hours 
 together, than can easily be imagined by those who compare them with 
 the usually rough and stubborn specimens of their useful race in Europe. 
 These untiring animals care little for the scorching heat of an Eastern 
 sun, and being fed chiefly on beans, they are kept in good condition and 
 the best working order. 
 
 Friday , November 23rd. — Cooler weather and no sunshine, — the 
 latter must be rather an unusual occurrence in this bright and genial 
 clime. Went to Old Cairo to see the Howling Dervishes, whose grand 
 performance takes place at one o’clock every Friday — the Mohammedan 
 Sabbath. It is generally said they are seen to greater advantage — 
 more properly ^advantage — at Constantinople than at Cairo. The 
 frightful scene of cutting themselves with knives is seldom exhibited 
 
20 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 now anywhere ; but even with that important amelioration, the wild 
 fanaticism of this heathenish ceremony is beyond all things painful and 
 disgusting for a truly Christian mind to contemplate. By the Pacha’s 
 express command there are always three or four officers with some 
 soldiers in attendance, that European travellers may receive no hurt or 
 annoyance from these miserable fanatics or their deluded followers. 
 These men are they, in fact, who wander about from place to place, 
 through every country under Moslem rule, impudent and importunate, 
 watching every occasion to sow the seeds of that bitter hatred and 
 fiercely intolerant bigotry which have of late sprung up in rank 
 luxuriance, and spread their deadly poison upon the fairest and most 
 fertile tracts of Syria. We found a large concourse of strangers already 
 assembled, and the ceremony had just commenced as we entered the 
 building. The room or chapel itself was very lofty, and altogether of 
 ample dimensions, lighted from above by a perforated dome, and the 
 floor entirely covered with clean matting : chairs and benches for the 
 convenience of spectators were placed against the walls. Of course the 
 dervishes do not like visitors to talk, even in the lowest whisper, during 
 the continuance of this solemn rite — for such these “ zikrs ” have long 
 been esteemed among Mohammedans ; and it is only right that the 
 greatest care should be taken not to offend their natural prejudices in 
 this respect. Truly it is a sad revolting spectacle to see these mad 
 enthusiasts, led by their chief priest, who stands erect, beating time 
 on a sort of drum within the wide-spread circle which they and their 
 equally frenzied disciples form around him, — to the sound of barbarous 
 music and their own wild voices, bending backwards and forwards, 
 almost to the ground, with astonishing quickness and flexibility, their 
 long uncombed hair flying to and fro as they move, faster or more 
 slowly as the discordant music leads them. There is a pause allowed, 
 once only, of a few minutes to take breath, and then they begin again, 
 at first very slowly, and gradually increasing their speed to its utmost 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 21 
 
 limit, almost beyond human conception. At the conclusion of the cere- 
 mony, which occupied at least an hour and a half, a long prayer was 
 chanted. Some of the dervishes were painfully exhausted ; and I was 
 told by a gentleman, who had been present on one of the hottest days in 
 summer, that they constantly faint away from these violent exertions, or 
 fall down senseless in epileptic fits. Their musical instruments consisted 
 of a horn about three feet long, a tambourine, a pair of cymbals, and a 
 drum, besides that carried by the chief priest. 
 
 Not far from hence is the English burial-ground, for which our 
 countrymen are mainly indebted to the energy and public spirit of Mr. 
 Sheppard, two of whose children have been interred within its hunts. 
 Surrounded by a high well-built wall, it is laid out very tastefully, and 
 is kept with extreme care and neatness. The graves are chiefly those 
 of English, Americans, and also a few Germans, who have died of 
 late years at Cairo. I do not think that any of the ages marked upon 
 the tombstones was more than forty-five, and by far the greater number 
 were under twenty, — a too manifest token of that fatal scourge of 
 northern lands, whose victims, hoping against hope — when all other 
 means have failed — come hither but to die. A small chapel is in 
 course of erection within this quiet cemetery, for the funeral service 
 only ; but the necessary funds are at present wanting to complete it : 
 part of the roof is already laid. Formerly all Protestant Christians 
 were buried within the precincts of the Coptic convent at Old Cairo. 
 
 Saturday , November 24 th . — We generally end our daily rides by 
 going a little way along the Shoobra road, which is shady and free from 
 dust at all times — ever busily astir with carriages, horsemen, camels, 
 bullock-carts, and people of every nation and of high or low degree. 
 Women in the middle rank of life — for high-born Eastern dames can 
 never condescend or be allowed to walk abroad — waddle awkwardly 
 along, closely veiled and shrouded from head to foot. Their voluminous 
 black silk cloaks, or wrappers, are not forbidden, however, to open widely 
 
22 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 as they move, and display the gay canary- coloured or pink satin under- 
 dress in all its pristine freshness. I rejoice that many Eastern peculiarities 
 of this far-famed city of the Caliphs have not yet passed quite away, 
 and merged into the matter-of-fact dullness of modern civilisation. 
 
 We visited some curiosity shops to-day, where the few objects of 
 value they contain are nearly lost amid heaps of worthless rubbish and 
 modern copies. Indeed we saw nothing half so curious and interesting 
 as some of the quaint old streets through which we passed, with their 
 carved lattice windows meeting each other high overhead. Many of 
 the Cairene houses, as well as the mosques, are painted outside in red 
 and white horizontal stripes ; but some are in checks of red and white, 
 which Mr. Webster, a gentleman who has lived some years in Egypt, 
 informs us always denotes Church property. Some of the minarets and 
 old doorways in the more ancient parts of Cairo are very beautiful. A 
 crocodile is frequently suspended over the door of a dwelling-house, as 
 a potent charm against the universally dreaded “ Evil Eye.” 
 
 Sunday, November 2hth . — Early this morning we saw the newly- 
 arrived Spanish Consul-General set off from this hotel in one of the 
 Viceroy’s state coaches to have his first audience : he wore full court 
 dress, and is a fine looking elderly man. Upon the panels of the 
 carriage the arms of Spain were painted, and the hammer-clotli was 
 scarlet, magnificently embroidered with gold. The four beautiful bay 
 horses were decked out in the gayest trappings ; and the fat old Greek 
 coachman, a favourite servant of the late Abbas Pacha, looked quite at 
 his ease and very important in his scarlet and gold jacket, full white 
 trousers, and red tarboosh. There were the usual outrunners, and a 
 mounted guard of honour was in attendance. 
 
 The weather is again most charming. At our morning service 
 Mr. Eeichardt preached an excellent sermon from Eomans, viii. 1. Said, 
 the donkey-boy, ever sharp-witted, had seen Mr. Eeichardt’s horse 
 standing at the Mission-house, and significantly remarked, “ Jew 
 
 man 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 28 
 
 here to-day ! ” In the afternoon the first chapter of St. Luke’s Gospel- 
 formed the subject of the Rev. Mr. Barnett’s discourse ; and the congrega 
 tion at the American Presbyterian service was much larger than that of 
 last Sunday : several families having arrived during the past week at Cairo. 
 
 Monday , November 20>th . — What scrambling hither and thither 
 when the India or homeward-bound passengers come and go ! Seldom 
 does the hard-hearted “ Company ” allow even one day’s rest, or a hasty 
 survey of Old Cairo’s wonders ; but onward they must travel, fast as 
 steam can carry them, over sea and land, east or west, until they shall 
 have reached their weary journey’s end, wherever that may be. To- 
 day Mr. Webster took us to see a beautiful collection of antiquities 
 belonging to a Wallachian physician, who wishes to sell them all 
 together, to be placed in some public institution. The objects are 
 chiefly Egyptian, though among these are some exquisitely cut 
 antique rings of Roman workmanship, and all are in the highest state 
 of preservation. I saw here the only pretty dog that has crossed my 
 path since I came to Egypt, — a timid little Italian greyhound. From 
 thence we went through many a winding street to a Turkish bath, 
 
 where Paolo arranged that all should be made ready for our use 
 
 to-morrow morning, at an hour when we can each have undisturbed 
 possession. Near this bath, in a very narrow street, are some old 
 granite millstones, now no longer used, with teeth cut in them. The 
 ancient walls of Saladin are here and there repaired and patched with 
 
 bricks, wherever the stone has worn away. We had a pleasant ride 
 
 through corn-fields and vegetable gardens. Endive is very generally 
 cultivated, as it is considered exceedingly wholesome : it is eaten as 
 salad, and a quantity of excellent oil is extracted from it for kitchen 
 purposes. A great deal of chicory is also grown in Egypt; and the 
 common cabbages are very superior to those usually produced in 
 England. They are very fight coloured, and much resemble sea-kale 
 when brought to table ; indeed they are often eaten raw in salad, like 
 
24 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 our home-grown lettuces. The instrument used in Eygpt for harrowing 
 the ground is merely a large beam of wood, drawn along by a bullock, 
 the light soil of this country rendering the addition of teeth quite 
 unnecessary. 
 
 Tuesday, November 27th . — The ground immediately in front of 
 our hotel is again occupied by a party of Towarah Arabs, waiting to 
 conduct some travellers to Mount Sinai. They form a strangely cha- 
 racteristic picture of Oriental life, such as one expects to see from old 
 descriptions. We are sorry to hear the usually unfavourable opinion 
 entertained towards (so-called) converted Christians here, and how 
 much are Mussulman, — especially Nubian — servants as a rule preferred 
 before them, and considered in all essential points their superiors. 
 
 At eleven o’clock we went to the bath. Outside, this building has 
 a shabby mean appearance, though its exterior walls are painted in 
 gaudy colours on a wliite ground, representing flowers and scrolls. 
 We first entered a very large room with a fountain, and surrounded 
 by divans. Several men and boys were washing out sheets and towels, 
 and hanging them on lines to dry. A perforated dome gives light to 
 this apartment, the faded walls and ceding of which bear evidence of 
 former splendour. We were not by any means enchanted with the 
 general appearance of things around us. All looked so time-worn and 
 dirty, that we trembled to think of what horrors we might by and by 
 carry away in our clothes. I waited about an hour until my bath was 
 ready. There were three small bath-rooms of different degrees of 
 temperature, each lighted by a dome and highly perfumed with incense. 
 The bathing process has been so often graphically described, and is now 
 so thoroughly understood in England, that I need not repeat it here. 
 Great length of time occupied is scarcely an objection, for the buoyancy 
 and renewed life imparted by such violent scrubbing and pulling, 
 soaping and boiling, is beyond anything one can imagine, and can only 
 be fully appreciated in a hot climate like that of Egypt. Dressing 
 
CAIRO, 
 
 25 
 
 again, as quickly as possible, I turned a deaf ear to the attendant 
 Abigail’s importunate demands for “ backsheesh,” and hastened to 
 rejoin my husband in the ante-room, where pipes and coffee were duly 
 brought and gratefully accepted. The entire cost of the baths, cups of 
 coffee, pipes, and double backsheesh , was about five shillings and sixpence. 
 This was certainly not an exorbitant charge, as the baths had been pre- 
 pared expressly for ourselves that we might enjoy them privately. For 
 appearance’ sake, we have just presented Said and Ah with each an 
 entirely new suit of clothes, consisting of a blue cotton shirt, white 
 drawers, coloured calico waistcoat, yellow slippers, red tarboosh , and 
 ample white turban, — much to their delight, of course ; but, still true to 
 their Arab nature, the more they have the more they ask. 
 
 The present Viceroy, who is frequently very generous and muni- 
 ficent in his gifts, however unscrupulous he may sometimes be con- 
 sidered in amassing his immense wealth — above four millions sterling 
 per annum, it is said — lately presented the Presbyterian Mission with a 
 ship ; they having previously applied to his Highness for leave to hire 
 a government vessel for their missionary services from time to time. 
 As a sign of gradual advancement, European teachers and domestic 
 servants are very generally to be found among the royal households. 
 The Viceroy has an English nurse for his own little boy, and the young 
 daughter of Mustafa Pacha is in charge of an English governess, Miss 
 Cow. Ismail Bey, heir-presumptive to the Pachalik, has received an 
 European education, and English gardeners are employed by that prince, 
 as well as by the Viceroy himseff. We have had the pleasure of 
 renewing our acquaintance with Dr. Burguieres Bey and his very 
 agreeable wife : the former, by birth a Frenchman, is state-physician 
 to the Viceroy and to Ismail Bey, and is known by all Egyptians 
 as “ Hakim (Doctor) Bey.” Madame Burguieres is an Englishwoman. 
 A liberal income, and I hope now and then a handsome present in 
 addition, may atone in some degree for a few unavoidable annoyances 
 
20 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 and privations ; and it is pleasant to observe an instance of royal 
 favour so judiciously and deservedly bestowed. His Highness the 
 Viceroy has lately presented Dr. Burguieres Bey with a well-appointed 
 “ brougham,” and Ismail Bey is building a beautiful house for his 
 residence on the Shoobra road. 
 
 Wednesday, November 28th. — Drove in an open carriage to the 
 Abbasseeh, a summer palace built by the late Viceroy for his son, El 
 Hamil Pacha, who died very recently. It is situated quite within the 
 Desert, half an hour’s drive from Cairo on the way to Suez. The chief 
 attraction there just now is a stud of some three hundred horses, reputed 
 the finest in the whole world ; but as there are in fact very few really 
 good animals among them, they must be either marvellously overrated, 
 or — in accordance with Oriental practice — undoubtedly have under- 
 gone many important changes. One thing is pretty certain at least, — 
 they are all to be sold in a short time by auction, and, having gained 
 great celebrity, they will probably fetch extravagant prices. The head 
 groom, who made the usual politic demur about admitting us, although 
 Mr. Webster was duly provided with the required official order, was 
 dressed in a long robe of scarlet silk and a black cloth cloak, with a red 
 and yellow silk kujjieh bound round his head and falling over his 
 shoulders. He was perfectly civil, but evidently a “ great man.” The 
 stables are very extensive, and admirably adapted to this warm climate, 
 one side being entirely open, and the ceilings very lofty. An incalculable 
 sum of money was expended, not upon these stables only, but upon 
 every other part also of this immense palace. A large wing was 
 appropriated to the numerous “ hareem ” of El Hamil Pacha, who died 
 700,000/. in debt, notwithstanding a princely income of 100,000/., and 
 the actual possession of nearly four millions in specie, deposited in large 
 chests, bequeathed to him by his father, Abbas Pacha. The Sultan of 
 Turkey and the present Viceroy of Egypt have jointly taken pity upon 
 the hareem , half of whom are already gone to Constantinople, while the 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 27 
 
 remainder are left at Cairo. Some years ago El Hamil Pacha married 
 one of the Sidtan’s daughters, which of course entailed heavy expenses 
 upon him, particularly at the time of his nuptials. For instance, on the 
 wedding day, among many other munificent presents, he gave his 
 imperial father-in-law a backsheesh to the amount of 80,000/. ! There 
 were also gifts to his royal bride worthy of her high estate, such as a 
 pair of jewel-embroidered slippers, which cost 800/. ! But with all this 
 lavish expenditure, it still appears a mystery how such vast sums of 
 money were really consumed. El Hamil Pacha was no gambler, 
 although unhappily, and in spite of his religious creed — forbidding to 
 all good Mussulmen the use of wine or spirits — he was, it is said, rather 
 given to excess. These horses at Abbasseeh, and indeed the whole of 
 his property, are now to be sold for the benefit of his creditors ; but a 
 very small proportion of this enormous debt can by possibility be thus 
 hquidated. 
 
 It is everywhere reported that the Viceroy is going immediately to 
 Mecca, on a pious pilgrimage. He has, we are told, fallen into bad 
 repute with the dervishes, who are scandalised by his want of orthodox 
 strictness as a true Mohammedan, evinced in great measure by his 
 growing partiality towards European tastes and improvements ; and, 
 accordingly, his Highness — despotic though he be — can allay the fears 
 and satisfy the scruples of these fanatical devotees in no more effectual 
 way than by this very popular act of atonement. Some people imagine 
 that the Viceroy is going this long journey for no other purpose than to 
 bring back to Cairo a near relation of his own, who has been residing 
 for many years at Mecca in strict incognito — whether as a voluntary 
 exile or a sort of state prisoner does not yet appear to be very clearly 
 defined. 
 
 This evening we heard an English gentleman warmly defending, 
 by his own personal experience, the character of Desert Arabs from 
 the universal charge of systematic dishonesty, and an irradicably hostile 
 
28 
 
 CAIltO. 
 
 feeling towards the rest of mankind. He said that to avoid the extreme 
 heat of two successive summers at Alexandria, and in company with a 
 friend, he had on both occasions removed with eight tents to Ceesar’s 
 Camp, just four miles from the city. Not a human being was near 
 them, except these wandering Bedouins, whose encampment was all the 
 time close at hand. The two gentlemen had been warned of danger 
 from these Arabs, and that at any rate they should be robbed of all they 
 possessed, even if they escaped with their lives. Nevertheless, they 
 would not — true Englishmen — be turned from their project, and had 
 eventually no reason to repent this bold decision, as they never received 
 the least annoyance from their lawless neighbours, or ever lost by theft 
 a single para’s worth in value. As to the general state of society in 
 Egypt at the present time, we are told many particulars which seem 
 shocking and repugnant to English ideas of honour and fair dealing ; but 
 I never had myself an opportunity of observing such a glaring instance 
 of unscrupulous deception as occurred in my own hearing at the dinner 
 
 table to-day. Mr. was negotiating for the sale of a splendid Arab 
 
 horse — the property of a friend then absent from Cairo — with the secre- 
 tary of one of the royal Pachas. The secretary began the discussion — 
 as a matter of course everywhere, I suppose — by disparaging the animal 
 as to his age, soundness, and other important points ; but adding that 
 the said Pacha requested the horse should immediately be sent for his 
 
 own approval. Mr. at once declared he would do no such thing, but 
 
 that if the Pacha liked to come and see for himself, he would show the 
 horse to him with pleasure ; that if an English prince wanted to buy a 
 horse, he would certainly take the trouble of going to look at him, 
 without considering such an act at all beneath his dignity ; and that if 
 the secretary wanted to see the horse again to-morrow, he was quite at 
 
 liberty to go into the stable where the animal was kept, and Mr. 
 
 would be there at any stated hour to meet him. All this was spoken, 
 advisedly, by one who knew well with whom he had to deal. The 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 29 
 
 secretary’s countenance now redoubled its mysteriously cunning ex- 
 pression : lie held his hand significantly before his mouth, and said, in a 
 low but perfectly distinct tone of voice, “ You will give me 20/. backsheesh 
 
 if I persuade the prince to buy that horse ! ” Mr. made no reply 
 
 to this modest demand, but simply said that the horse would be given 
 up on payment of the required purchase-money into his own or his 
 friend’s hands, and on that condition only. The secretary, nothing 
 daunted, continued to converse on other topics, and talked a great deal 
 of nonsense ; — among many absurdities declaring that, to his certain 
 knowledge, an English member of Parliament had given 500/. for “ the 
 little donkey of the donkey of the great Mohammed Ali ! ” 
 
 We have been to the island of Khoda this afternoon, where, tradition 
 says that Thermutis, Pharoah’s daughter, found the infant Moses. A 
 small row-boat conveyed us thither in less than ten minutes from Old 
 Cairo, and we landed near the far-famed Nilometer, a graduated column, 
 whereby the rise of water is measured daily during the inundation of 
 the Nile. Close by is a palace belonging to one of the Pachas, with 
 spacious and very lofty apartments divided by gracefully built arches, the 
 ceilings are beatifully carved and gilded, and the walls are adorned with 
 immense mirrors. In the Hall of Audience is a richly designed marble 
 fountain. The bath-rooms are particularly well arranged and luxurious. 
 The garden appears by no means neatly kept, but there are plenty of 
 flowers and fruit-trees, planted without the least order or regularity 
 We were delayed for about a quarter of an hour by the embarkation 
 of a large hareem , which was leaving the palace just as we were 
 preparing to rejoin our own boat. It was a long business for the 
 attendant eunuchs to hand twenty living bundles of black silk or white 
 calico with proper caution in and out again, and then to stow them 
 safely away somewhere at Old Cairo. 
 
 We daily remark how very much longer the ancient minarets of 
 Cairo remain standing, and retain their elegant proportions and elaborate 
 
30 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 finish than any other parts of the mosques themselves. This is indeed 
 almost invariably the case in these rapidly decaying monuments of past 
 ages. Nothing is repaired, and time commits his ruthless ravages un- 
 disturbed and quite unheeded, except by the passing stranger, whose 
 voice of warning would be raised in vain. 
 
 Thursday , November 29th. — Ourselves uninterested spectators, we 
 can look calmly upon the proceedings and preparations of all those 
 travellers who are making ready for their voyage up the Nile. And 
 not a few there are, married as well as single, who have left their 
 distant homes on the far too hazardous chance of meeting opportunely 
 some good-natured party which they hope will join them, and share the 
 dread expenses of a three months’ cruise. It generally happens, that 
 those very persons upon whom the designing wayfarer casts his wistful 
 eye, are the most unwilling to respond to his appeal, and thus the poor 
 forlorn one is driven to broader hints and all kinds of artful stratagems, 
 sure to end in disappointment and vexation at last. An old traveller is 
 much too wise to be caught in this way. No ! if people cannot afford 
 to travel by themselves, they will surely do well not to go abroad 
 at all. 
 
 Mr. , a gentlemanly-looking old man, left Cairo to-day for Upper 
 
 Egypt. Alas! his openly avowed object is to undermine Christianity 
 and cast obloquy and ridicule upon her most sacred truths. May the 
 Almighty Disposer of all things turn the infidel heart of this aged 
 sinner ere the day of grace be past, and make his evil words of none 
 effect with others. 
 
 This day is the anniversary of the union of the States of America ; 
 and, accordingly, one of the fine large apples of that country was cut into 
 small pieces at dessert, and handed round the table. An American 
 gentlemen then informed us that different members from each State were 
 accustomed to meet on this particular day, and their thus assembling 
 during the present year was to be also an occasion of solemn thanksgiving 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 31 
 
 for an unusually abundant harvest. This gentleman concluded by saying 
 that his daughter had by great care managed to preserve this apple 
 until now. Mr. Webster has now in his possession the very best micro- 
 scope I ever saw; and I mention it here because it must be a delightful 
 companion in his long journeys through almost every country on earth. 
 He has also a camera lucida, and a portable sun-dial. Until lately Mr. 
 Webster has been in charge of an extensive farm in the Delta, originally 
 belonging to some German company, but I fancy the Pacha has contrived 
 to monopolise that as well as everything else in Egypt. We received a 
 visit this evening from Mustafa Agha, British Consular Agent at Thebes. 
 He is vastly polished up since we saw him seven years ago, and speaks 
 English much more fluently than in the early days of his appointment. 
 He wore a long silk robe, striped red and yellow and lined with fur. 
 
 Friday , November 30 th. — Madame Burguieres had kindly arranged 
 that I should this day accompany her on a visit to the hareem of Ismail 
 Bey, heir-presumptive to the Yiceroyalty, and over which, according to 
 Eastern custom, his mother — one of the six widows of Ibrahim Pacha 
 — always presides. The three very young wives of Ismail Bey are kept 
 with even more than ordinary seclusion, and are seldom seen by any- 
 body, except their most particular friends and nearest relations. Madame 
 Frederic Baltazzi’s carriage conveyed myself and others of the party to 
 the river’s bank at Old Cairo, where we immediately stepped into the 
 pretty barge belonging to the Princess Om Ismail (mother of Ismail), 
 which had been sent expressly for Madame Burguieres’ use. In the stern 
 was a sort of cabin like that of a Venetian gondola, but painted white, 
 and covered with a tasseled awning. The four tall boatmen wore white 
 shirts and crimson scarfs. By the landing-place at Rhoda we ascended 
 a flight of stone steps into the spacious court of the hareem , which is 
 paved with broad flag-stones, and kept with extreme neatness. The 
 great gateway was opened by some black eunuchs in long flowing robes 
 and red sashes, while at the opposite side of the court stood several very 
 
32 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 pretty and beautifully dressed young slave girls, who, with smiling faces 
 and an artless grace of manner, made the customary salaam , and pre- 
 ceded us up a handsome staircase, covered with a rich soft carpet 
 fastened down with brass rods. At the top of this staircase a red 
 curtain was drawn aside, and admitted us into a small ante-chamber. 
 Another curtain was then raised, and we entered the reception-room. 
 The Princess, and a lady with her, received us, standing, in the centre 
 of this apartment, Madame Burguieres presenting her companions one 
 by one, by name. The Princess is very pleasing, and has a most gentle 
 winning countenance ; her age may be about forty, though she certainly 
 does not look so much. Her eyes are large and beautiful ; but I cannot 
 yet admire the effect of khol, so freely used to blacken the eyebrows and 
 eyelashes, and which by its artificial and unnatural appearance consider- 
 ably mars the general effect of a really fine and noble face, by giving a 
 character of hardness to the general expression which in no way belongs 
 to it. Madame Burguieres was interpreter to the party, and had 
 many kind words to say to everybody on the part of our courteous 
 hostess. There were perhaps twenty-four slave girls in attendance, and 
 besides these were three or four enormously fat old women, who sat 
 quietly by themselves at one side of the room, like so many bundles of 
 rich damask carelessly thrown aside. The slaves were dressed in silks 
 and satins of different colours, with light kujjiehs on their heads. Their 
 hair cut short in front, and hanging down behind in long plaits sparkling 
 with tiny coins or other glittering ornaments. Their loose jackets and 
 wide trousers made no pretence at fitting, and the total absence of either 
 stays or crinoline forms altogether a marked contrast between the time- 
 honoured costume of an Oriental belle and that of a fashionable lady at 
 the present day in Europe. All wore trains, but none of them were 
 allowed to sweep the ground, except those only of the Princess and her 
 friend. The Princess’s own dress was of drab brocaded silk, with a long 
 and loose yellow satin jacket, Valenciennes lace collar and sleeves, and 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 33 
 
 a black silk mantle. Round her neck were splendid diamonds, and a 
 wreath of the same precious gems encircled her classically shaped head. 
 She unfastened a pair of diamond bracelets, which had each for its 
 clasp an exquisitely finished miniature portrait of Ismail Bey, saying 
 with a good-natured smile, that as she could not show us the prince, 
 her son, personally, we should see his painted likeness. Several other 
 apartments opened into the audience chamber, in two of which I 
 observed common mattresses spread upon the floor. Indeed, these are 
 often the only beds used by people even of the highest rank, mosquito- 
 curtains being suspended above them from the lofty walls, and always 
 carefully let down at night. After our presentation the Princess walked 
 towards her divan, and making signs that we should sit down by her 
 side, she saluted us all again separately, with an encouraging remark 
 or inquiry to each guest. The divan was covered with satin damask, 
 striped red and gold colour, while several fauteuils and smaller chairs 
 with gilded framework and crimson velvet cushions were placed stiffly 
 round the room. The carpet was of a gay-coloured pattern, and a 
 handsome chandelier hung from the ceiling. The tout ensemble of 
 all this costly furniture was quite spoiled by the very trumpery style 
 in which the walls and ceilings were papered ; for the most ordinary 
 English bedroom often displays a better taste in decoration. Pipes 
 were duly brought, and continually replenished by the watchful hand- 
 maids ; and who can ever despise the mild fragrance of really good 
 Turkish tobacco, with the sweet smelling incense that accompanies 
 it when smoked by the higher classes, or deny its soothing influence ! 
 The pipes, too, were so gorgeous in themselves, with their solid mouth- 
 pieces of that pale clouded amber universally esteemed by connoisseurs , 
 and round the centre of each mouthpiece was a ring of large diamonds. 
 The little silver coffee stands ( zerfs ) were set with precious stones. 
 Coffee and sherbet were handed round, and also a sweet dark-coloured 
 syrup, of which every guest was expected to take a teaspoonful, putting 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 the spoon back into a tumbler of water. This visit lasted exactly 
 two hours and a half. Four musicians, dressed like men, but of course 
 they were all women, played most barbarously, as I thought, and 
 with deafening noise, nearly the whole time. Their instruments were 
 two tambourines, a fife, and a small harp. The Princess evidently 
 considered this music perfectly charming ; and seemed quite certain 
 that everybody present must be equally delighted with it. There were, 
 besides, four dancing girls, who treated us to two separate performances. 
 They were dressed like pretty dolls, in crimson satin tunics and full 
 white trowsers, and with them came a young negro girl in boy’s clothes, 
 with a fool’s cap on her head, making the most shrill, ridiculous noises 
 that ever were heard ; acting, in short, as buffoon, and grotesquely 
 mimicking the sometimes graceful movements of the dancers. I had 
 already seen the Ghowazees of Upper Egypt ; but these private per- 
 formances, being a kind of appendage to the chief lmreems at Cairo, 
 are certainly far superior to the others in every way. We can but 
 look with pity and amazement upon such frivolous and unsatisfactory 
 amusements, as we gaze upon a lingering scene of bygone days that 
 will soon entirely pass away, and like many another ancient custom, 
 handed down unchanged for countless ages, these must disappear and 
 be known no more. All the dancers had castanets, which they played 
 with great spirit and accuracy. Some of the slaves are really beautiful ; 
 while others, indeed the greater number, are quite the reverse, but 
 they are all without exception very gracefid in their deportment. The 
 Princess rose from her seat when we took leave of her. She is very 
 proud of her son Ismail Bey, and laid much stress upon his dutiful 
 behaviour towards her. He lately visited both London and Paris, 
 and all the diamonds she wore to-day were, she added, his munificent 
 gift. In fact, her late husband, Ibrahim Pacha, was the most econo- 
 mical prince of the whole family, and had but little taste for show 
 and splendour. Most of the slaves accompanied us into the court 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 35 
 
 below, bidding us adieu with smiles and salaams. The gaunt eunuchs 
 grinned horribly as they unbarred the massive portal. We recrossed the 
 river to Old Cairo in the royal barge, and reached home just as the 
 shadows - of evening had closed completely around us. The etiquette 
 of the Egyptian court is considered to be much more strict and cere- 
 monious than that of Constantinople, and the hareems are said to be on 
 a more splendid scale. 
 
 We met to-day the Viceroy’s little son, Prince Toossoon, riding a 
 pony, and attended by two servants on foot. A few weeks hence there 
 will be a grand court fete to celebrate the circumcision of this poor child. 
 
 Saturday, December lit — The sun was hotter than usual to- 
 day ; and Mustafa Agha, came on his donkey soon after breakfast to 
 take me to visit his younger wife (“Sitteh” Mustafa number one 
 lives at Alexandria) — whose acquaintance I made at Thebes in 
 1853. The Consul made many apologies for the inconvenient and 
 comfortless state of the house he now occupies, reminding me that 
 he was its tenant for a few days only. But I imagine this very same 
 house, with its filthy lower court and dilapidated staircase, is a 
 tolerably fair sample of an ordinary Egyptian dwelling, inhabited by 
 the middle ranks of life. In the furthest corner of an airy, good- 
 sized upper room, with a stone floor on which were spread several 
 mats and small carpets, was a low divan, where sat in listless attitude 
 the still lovely Sift herself. She has lost the fresh and rosy hue of her 
 very early days', and her once joyous manner is softened down into 
 a quiet, gentle expression of sadness, caused by the recent death of 
 her eldest son, a fine boy about twelve years old. She rose from her 
 seat when I entered, saluting me after the fashion of her country, 
 and taking a pile of cushions from the divan, she placed them on the 
 floor for my use. She showed me her five children, three boys and 
 two girls. They have all been taught to read and speak English, and 
 the eldest boy read a page or two from a common lesson-book with 
 
36 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 wonderful accuracy. These children went through the customary 
 form of kissing my hand and raising it to their foreheads. A portly 
 Arab man-servant came forward with pipes, coffee, and sherbet in quick 
 succession. Another visitor soon made his appearance, — a no less 
 important personage than the chief eunuch of Kamil Pacha’s liareem , 
 he also bearing the title of “ Agha.” The consular agent did not 
 forget to produce his “ Visitors’ Book,” which he presents to all English 
 travellers at Thebes, and who are expected to state in writing their 
 sense of his capacity in business, his constant readiness to oblige, 
 and his generous hospitalities. Mustafa Agha seems highly flattered 
 by my somewhat lengthy description of his dinner-party in “ Shadows 
 of the East,” and promises a still more sumptuous entertainment, a 
 VArabe , if we repeat our voyage up the Nile. He gave me some 
 curious antiques, among which are two small wooden idols, all found 
 by himself at Thebes ; and to these gifts the “ Sitt ” added a pretty 
 green and silver Jcuffieh. The lady’s dress was entirely black, her 
 jewels had been laid aside, and she has left off staining her hands 
 with henna until the usual time of mourning, nearly the same as our 
 own, shall have expired. At the end of an hour, Paolo — certainly 
 not a “ dangerous man ” — suddenly appeared at the door. Up started 
 “ Sitteh ” Mustafa, scared and terrified, as if a ghost had risen from 
 the shades below, and rushed frantically towards an inner apartment, 
 with a half suppressed scream. Paolo speedily vanished, and the 
 frightened fair one ventured to emerge from her hiding-place. I 
 then took my leave, offering a trifling present in return for her 
 kindness. 
 
 An Eastern visit is always rather irksome, although in part relieved 
 by the never-failing pipes and coffee. News has just reached Cairo 
 of the English troops having completely sacked the city of Pekin. 
 
 Sunday , December 2nd, — Mustafa Agha came betimes to say that 
 Zenib Khanum will receive me at the palace of Shoobra to-morrow 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 37 
 
 at two o’clock, and that the chief eunuch will accompany me to her 
 Highness’ presence. This august lady holds a higher rank than any 
 other of the Egyptian princesses, being the oldest female descendant 
 and sole surviving daughter of the great Mahommed Ali. She is 
 sister to Said Pacha, the present Viceroy, and wife of Kamil Pacha. 
 By a similar rule, the viceregal succession does not of right descend 
 directly from father to son, but is inherited by the oldest male 
 descendant of Mohammed Ali Pacha. Zenib Khanum has lately 
 become the “Sitt” par excellence , by the death of an elder sister — 
 said to have been a princess “ of fierce countenance ” and cruel dis- 
 position. But to continue my story. Mustafa Aglia went away, and 
 we started for church, where Mr. Eeichardt preached from John, iii. 7. 
 As usual in most places, the first Sunday in each month, the Holy 
 Sacrament was this day administered, and several of the congregation 
 remained to partake of it. Among the communicants was the con- 
 verted Jew I have already mentioned in connection with the Mission. 
 When the service was over we returned to the hotel. Here was 
 Mustafa Agha again, with a civil message from Zenib Khanum, 
 through her chief eunuch, to the effect that “ it was a pity I should 
 have the trouble of driving four miles to Shoobra, and that her 
 Highness had come this morning to her palace in the Usbe&eeh on 
 purpose to give me an audience, and requesting I would go to her 
 at once. That if I wished to visit her at Shoobra, she would gladly 
 receive me there also.” All amazed, I hastily tore off my mourning 
 garb, arrayed myself in as courtly a manner as my travelling wardrobe 
 permitted, and hi less than half an hour I had passed through the 
 great wooden portal, jealously guarded by about a dozen hideous black 
 eunuchs, and stood within the court of the hareem. Two eunuchs then 
 led me up a handsome stone-staircase, which opened upon a beautiful 
 marble gallery, forming a square, and overlooking a garden below. 
 This gallery was arched over with trellis-work, covered with gay 
 
88 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 creeping plants ; and from thence a broad flight of marble-steps led 
 directly into the audience chamber, which was carpeted, and furnished 
 with crimson velvet chairs and divans, set formally against the walls. 
 This room was large, and lofty in proportion ; and on each side was 
 an immense pier-glass, reaching from the floor to the ceiling. In the 
 centre hung a splendid chandelier, and immediately under this stood 
 a large round table, with a green velvet cover, edged with gold fringe, 
 upon which were placed a few smelling-bottles and French nicknacks. 
 Two young slave girls received me as I entered ; one of whom, laying 
 her hands gently on both my arms, did her best to make me comfortable 
 in a luxurious fauteuil , and even insisted upon folding closely round 
 my shoulders a rich cashmere shawl. A row of cushions lay spread 
 before this stately “ Chaise d’honneur,” and I was scarcely seated, or 
 had time to collect my bewildered thoughts, when a stout and comely, 
 but withal a haughty-looking dame appeared. She wore a gold tiara 
 on her head ; and saluting me with cold civility, said a few words in 
 Arabic about the Princess, and then sat down in silence. More slaves 
 soon afterwards came in ; two of whom were quite children, and shyly 
 glanced towards me with a mingled expression of fear and curiosity, 
 as they fondly clung to the side of a shrivelled old woman, who may 
 possibly be their mother. The same pretty slave who placed me so 
 snugly in the arm-chair, now brought me a magnificent pipe, superbly 
 set with diamonds, large and small. To refuse the proffered pipe would 
 be a dire affront ; nor in these Eastern countries is any exercise of 
 self-denial required to ensure its ready acceptance. All around me 
 was so new and strange, so much more like a gorgeous dream than an 
 actual event of my life, that I half began to doubt my own identity. 
 Perhaps ten minutes only may have passed away, although it seemed 
 much longer, when Zcnib Khanum herself entered the room, her train 
 sweeping — I cannot say majestically — behind her, for an Eastern 
 lady’s shuffling walk necessarily precludes the least idea of dignified 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 89 
 
 movement. She was followed by three or four slaves ; and in this 
 hareem, as in that of the Princess Om Ismail, there were very few 
 of its inmates, however graceful and pleasing, whose features could 
 be considered strictly beautiful. Zenib Khanum greatly resembles the 
 portraits of Mohammed Ah Pacha ; her eyes are black and piercing, 
 like those of her much dreaded father ; and it is said that when 
 occasionally roused to anger, the expression of her face becomes almost 
 as dark and terrible as his own. It may be so ; but for my part 
 I saw only sweet smiles lighting up her bright, good-humoured coun- 
 tenance as she advanced ; while, gracefully holding out her hand, she 
 made me sit on a divan by her side. Her Highness is of middle height, 
 and is rather stout for her size. I believe she is about thirty years 
 of age. Her dress to-day was entirely of drab damask silk ; her dark 
 hair was confined by a black gauze Jcuffieh, and fastened all round 
 with splendid diamond pins. The pipe was at once resumed, and 
 coffee handed in the usual tiny cups. The zerfs were of silver filigree, 
 exquisitely wrought, and set with large diamonds. One of the younger 
 slaves stood erect before us, waving continually a long-shaped feather- 
 fan to drive away the flies, which were very troublesome. When I 
 fancied my visit ought to come to an end, I stood up to go, but the 
 Princess insisted that I should remain a little longer ; and when at 
 last I took my leave, she kindly invited me to visit her again, either 
 at Cairo or at Shoobra, whichever I preferred. As I retired from her 
 presence, the Princess ordered one of her eunuchs to conduct me to 
 the hotel, and explain fully to our dragoman all that she had just 
 addressed to myself. Like many other Europeans, I had been told, 
 and was led to believe, that these princesses were so far educated as 
 to speak either French or Italian, whereas in truth they have rarely 
 been taught to read even a little Arabic or Turkish. But whatever 
 may be the idle habits of grand ladies in Egypt, their slaves do not 
 generally lead such a fife of lazy indolence as we commonly suppose ; 
 
40 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 their time being constantly occupied in needlework, making sweetmeats, 
 and all such household duties as their own peculiar notions of comfort 
 and luxury may require. 
 
 Well ! my wondrous dream was over now; and I suddenly awoke to 
 find that nearly half an hour was still at my disposal, to prepare for 
 the afternoon service of the American Mission ; and in the evening 
 we joined a small congregation, assembled for prayer and reading the 
 Scriptures at Mr. Eeichardt’s house, in the Jews’ quarter. This duty 
 was performed by the Eev. Mr. Burton, who is here on his journey 
 to Calcutta, having received the appointment of Secretary to that 
 branch of the Church Missionary Society. There was, moreover, very 
 enjoyable novelty in a moonlight-ride, our servant Salvo and the two 
 donkey-boys each provided with a lantern ; for moon or no moon, 
 any luckless individual who may be caught after sunset without a light 
 of some kind in his hand, is pretty sure to be carried off at once 
 to prison, although he is generally released on payment to the guard 
 of five piastres only. The donkeys also seemed to like the expedition, 
 and ran on nimbly side by side more steadily than in the day-time. 
 The sole attempt ever made to light the streets of Cairo is by means 
 of burning pieces of resinous wood, piled up within circular iron- 
 frames, which are fixed upon long poles driven firmly in the ground. 
 Around these blazing fires sit groups of turbaned Egyptians, smoking or 
 drinking coffee, and we saw this evening as we passed along, men, 
 women, and children seated or lying on the bare ground, without a fire 
 to warm them, and many of whom remain all night unsheltered in the 
 open air. Such is the mild dry atmosphere of this delightful climate, 
 that but little real hardship is endured by these poor people. 
 
 For ourselves, we scarcely give due credit to our English almanacs, 
 which tell us plainly that we are now in “ bleak December nor can 
 we easily believe that friends at home must long ere this be shivering 
 over roaring fires, even in comfortable air-tight houses, and in spite of 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 41 
 
 warm clothing. All was dark and silent as we cautiously threaded the 
 narrow alleys of the Jewish quarter of the city, the gates of which are 
 always locked at night, to protect the Israelite inhabitants, who are 
 wealthy on the whole, from insult and robbery. 
 
 Monday , December 3rd . — A very large proportion of the Egyptian 
 army, to the amount of several thousand men, marched slowly through 
 the Uzbe&eeh this morning. First came the artillery, preceded by a 
 band, chiefly of trombones. The jackets of the different companies 
 varied in colour — some being grey, others dark blue, green, and orange. 
 The horse artillery had eight horses to a gun, while the foot artillery had 
 six only. The ammunition waggons were drawn by mules, and carried 
 each of them a spare wheel and pole. The gun-carriages are very 
 clumsy and uncouth in shape, and all are painted white. The twelve- 
 pounders were drawn by six horses, and the eight-pounders by four. 
 Then came a troop of lancers, in claret-coloured jackets, mounted on 
 grey horses, and with flags of different colours tied upon their lances. 
 These were closely followed by another troop of lancers in blue 
 jackets, riding bay horses, and with tufts of black ostrich feathers on 
 their lances. Then came the rest of the cavalry, some of whom wore 
 chain helmets, with chain collars round the neck, and also chain tunics. 
 The cuirassiers had steel-helmets, like those of our own Life Guards, 
 and were armed with swords and revolvers ; but the lancers and 
 artillery had revolver-pistols only. An hour after this first detachment 
 had gone by, we saw more artillery, and last of all the Viceroy’s favourite 
 and recently organised corps, the Nubian cavalry, on whose fidelity 
 he can more fully confide than in that of all the rest of his army put 
 together. Their open cheerful countenances seem to warrant this 
 opinion, and a glossy black skin contrasts admirably with their new 
 uniforms, of the very brightest shade of crimson. The Viceroy has 
 also a large corps of dromedary artillery, but they are seldom 
 stationed at Cairo. We saw, however, on the Shoobra road this 
 
42 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 afternoon two janissaries mounted on fine dromedaries, and going at 
 a quick trot. 
 
 From what we are enabled to learn, our Missionary experience of 
 Oriental character has hitherto been unfavourable and discouraging. 
 Deceit and ingratitude, to almost any extent, are, it is said, usually 
 considered pardonable imperfections even between themselves, and still 
 more justifiable from Mussulmen towards Christians ; moreover the 
 former will not or cannot acknowledge that the God whom we worship 
 is the same Almighty Being whom they also are taught, though 
 imperfectly, to reverence ; and hence arises many a fatal stumbling- 
 block between their own false and degrading system of religion, and 
 the sublime truths of Christianity so emphatically set forth in Holy 
 Scripture. The ancient Coptic Church of Egypt has, alas, sunk deep 
 in error and decay, but still retains some latent germ of better things 
 to come ; and although dark clouds of ignorance may now obscure what 
 once was pure and holy, we bear in mind it was Saint Mark himself 
 by whom that Church was planted, eighteen hundred years ago, at 
 Alexandria. The inspired Evangelist did not stand alone ; and history 
 tells, in glowing words, how Athanasius, and a long train of saints 
 and martyrs after him, carefully nourished and freely shed their blood 
 to keep alive this blessed work. Oh ! may we not believe that for 
 the sake of this same Church — fallen, but Christian still — God’s 
 favour will yet return to Egypt, and the fight of His glorious Gospel 
 shine throughout the land ! 
 
 Our friend Captain Lees, 23rd Royal Welch Fusiliers, arrived at Cairo 
 this evening, on his way to India. The Pacha unfortunately happened 
 to be moving troops, and the railway train was delayed for several hours, 
 to suit their convenience. But one cannot much regret that railroad 
 travelling in Egypt is at all times very slow, for were the speed con- 
 siderably increased, some frightful accidents would be the sure result 
 of every day’s experience. Carelessness, and a general want of system, 
 
CAIIIO. 
 
 43 
 
 prevail in this department. It is true the Viceroy has been, and is still 
 obliged to employ a number of Europeans on his railways, and then- 
 chief director is an Englishman ; but he is no less jealous of their 
 superiority to his native employes. On one occasion, not very long 
 ago, an inexperienced Arab engine-driver was ordered to conduct the 
 train from Cairo to Suez, and two Egyptian grandees were to occupy 
 a state carriage in the same train. At the end of two hours, the latter 
 came suddenly to a stand. “ Very good,” said they ; “ this is done on 
 purpose to enable us to smoke a pipe.” Orientals have never the 
 least value for time ; so these great gentlemen sat on, smoking and 
 dozing ; at last feeling sensible that the delay became rather tedious, 
 but taking no trouble to ascertain its cause. Sunset drew near — 
 when lo ! the engine, with its line of other carriages, had sped away 
 to Suez, the driver all the while as perfectly unconscious of the truth 
 as were his dreamy victims, thus left helpless and alone in the 
 desert, — dark hours of night before them, and a hazard of being 
 crushed to pieces by the next advancing train. An accident occurred 
 one day to Said Pacha himself, which might have been very serious, 
 and even fatal, in its consequences. His Highness arranged to start 
 for Suez at a certain hour, and gave orders that another train, con- 
 veying soldiers, should follow him in a quarter of an hour afterwards. 
 In vain did the engineer, and all those persons present whose opinion 
 might be worth attention, remonstrate with the Pacha on the danger 
 of not allowing a longer interval between the departure of these two 
 trains ; his Highness was obstinate, and insisted upon being obeyed 
 to the letter. They started, and all went on prosperously for an hour, 
 when the first train met with some casual delay, unimportant in itself, 
 but quite sufficient to cause the second fine of carriages to overtake it. 
 The speed was fortunately not so great but that there was time to 
 break the force of an inevitable collision. Nobody was killed, or even 
 hurt, beyond a few bruises, of which the Viceroy, very deservedly, 
 
44 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 had a share. The engineer, fearing for his head, turned pale and 
 trembled, hardly able to utter a word of explanation. However, the 
 Pacha chanced to be in one of his best humours that day, and 
 laughingly replied, “ Never mind ; it was all my own fault.” This 
 little incident has since proved a timely warning, so far as railway 
 journeys are concerned, that even despotism has its limits. 
 
 Tuesday, December 4 th. — Last night the air felt almost chilly, and 
 Egyptians complain that it is really cold to-day. Mr. Colquhoun, 
 C.B., and H.B.M. Consul-General for Egypt, has just arrived at this 
 hotel. He is tall and handsome, with a most benevolent expression 
 of countenance, and his maimer is particularly courteous and gentle- 
 manlike. It is a pity that such favourable specimens of our countrymen 
 abroad so very rarely appear. An instance of the justice of this last 
 remark occurred only yesterday. A party of Englishmen were visiting 
 the royal gardens at Shoobra, and the gardener gave them flowers and 
 oranges ; but not yet content, they rudely pulled more fruit from off the 
 trees, and even beat this poor man cruelly on the head for daring to 
 reprove their bad behaviour. The Viceroy has therefore peremptorily 
 decreed that no European shall find admittance within the gates of 
 Shoobra until after the first of May next. The celebrated Rajah of 
 Borneo, Sir James Brooke, K.C.B., is staying here at present ; he is now 
 advanced in life, and has seen much of its vicissitudes. It is pleasant 
 to observe the interest everywhere excited on behalf of Indian Missions, 
 and several most zealous young clergymen from England are going out 
 just now to join them. One of these devoted missionaries is the 
 Rev. Mr. Puxley, lately an officer in one of our cavalry regiments, 
 and who has freely given up many worldly advantages to aid in the 
 good work of converting Hindoos to Christianity. From all one hears, 
 their prospects of success are not by any means discouraging. This 
 afternoon, in the Saddlers’ Bazaar, we saw a wild, strange being, one 
 grizzly “ saint,” as he is called. A troop of hungry dogs, their number 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 45 
 
 fast increasing as lie walked along the street, followed closely at his 
 heels, and were fed by him with sundry morsels, taken out of a large 
 bag, which he carried in his hand for the purpose. There were few, 
 even of the very poorest passers-by, who did not give a para to this 
 wretched-looking man, one mass of filthy rags from head to foot. All 
 the carriages we meet at Cairo are accompanied by two or more active 
 outrunners : a very necessary precaution in the crowded narrow 
 thoroughfares of this great city. It is difficult to conceive how any 
 equipage can move a yard, and not do harm to somebody. The 
 costume of these shrill-voiced footmen is often very becoming, espe- 
 cially that worn by the outrunners with the royal carriages, namely, 
 white Zouave jackets, crimson scarfs and waistcoats, full white 
 trousers, and frequently a snowy white turban, in addition to the 
 red tarboosh. 
 
 We have just had a visit from Hekekyan Bey. He and his wife 
 are Armenians by birth, but have resided at Cairo for many years. 
 Their only son, a fine intelligent youth of seventeen, was educated at 
 Paris, and has just returned from thence. The Bey himself graduated 
 at Cambridge, and speaks the English language with perfect accuracy, 
 and without the least foreign accent. He subsequently was appointed 
 President of the Institution for Promotion of Science, founded by the 
 late Mohammed Ah Pacha, and was employed by that energetic prince 
 in searching for Egyptian antiquities, and endeavouring to throw a 
 clearer light upon their mysterious history. He informed us — alluding 
 to the usual habits of Eastern society — that in all great families, the 
 coffee-bearer, whether male or female, ranks higher than the pipe- 
 bearer ; and that extraordinary pains are taken in training newly- 
 purchased slaves to the performance of their respective duties with 
 suitable grace and propriety. For instance, the coffee-bearer must 
 learn to advance with the little cup, and often richly-jewelled zerf 
 at a quick, half-running pace, — suddenly stop, just at the right instant, 
 
46 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 and place the fragrant offering gently, without spilling a single drop, 
 between the fingers of the person receiving it ; then retire with a 
 light and airy step, standing with hands across, and downcast but 
 observant eyes, until the moment comes to take the cup away. 
 
 Wednesday , December hth. — This afternoon Hakim Burguieres Bey 
 showed us his new house on the Shoobra road, which he hopes will 
 be ready for occupation hi four months. An Arab tradesman, above 
 every other, seems to require the “ master’s eye ” upon his labour ; 
 and our friends spend much time daily in encouraging the workpeople, 
 and directing their progress. The spacious entrance-hall has both a 
 northern and a southern doorway, to suit the various seasons of the 
 year ; and we particularly admire the broad and handsome staircase, 
 with its rounded Moorish arches, which are to be gilded and painted, 
 d I’ Arabesque, in due time. The gardens are extensive ; but we can 
 scarcely judge of them at present, as they have been so recently laid 
 out. The ground itself looks parched and dry ; but when the 
 numerous water-channels are complete, and thoroughly serving them 
 purpose, and the larger trees are fully grown, I am sure this will 
 be a pleasant retreat from the noise and dust of Cairo. Most of 
 those plants we cultivate with so much care in English hothouses 
 thrive here luxuriantly in open air. The myrtle borders, now a few 
 inches high, will soon become thick hedges on each side of winding 
 walks. Geraniums, planted by Madame Burguieres only last spring, 
 in short cuttings, are already stately shrubs. The pear and apple- 
 trees were brought from Italy, a sunny climate too. Stone used for 
 building houses in this locality is, like Bath stone, soft to work, but 
 hardens and turns whiter by exposure to the sun. 
 
 Somebody Agha, Zenib Khanum’s chief eunuch, is most anxious 
 we should buy a splendid saddle and saddle-cloth, which he has for 
 sale. They are of the richest crimson velvet, superbly embroidered 
 in gold. Egyptian grandees are wont to expend large sums of money 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 47 
 
 in their horse-trappings ; and eunuchs are still important personages 
 in the East, and by no means regarded as menials. 
 
 Thursday , December 6th. — Sad complaints were made to-day by 
 Indian travellers of the desagremens of the Eed Sea passage ; and 
 some people prefer even a long voyage round the Cape of Good Hope, 
 to the risk of encountering so much misery a second time, from all 
 the annoyances inseparable from dreadful heat and crowded steamers, 
 for three weeks together. Several deaths have occurred this very 
 year among homeward-bound passengers, whose already weakened 
 constitutions were unable to sustain the hardship and suffering of that 
 part of their journey. 
 
 Before dinner we rode a few miles into the desert, clouds of sand 
 destroying our comfort, and preventing much enjoyment of a fresh 
 and cooling breeze. We passed through the wretched village of 
 Kaid Bey, and close by the mouldering tombs of the Caliphs. High 
 unsightly mounds of rubbish, running parallel with the ancient walls 
 of Saladin, would ere now have entirely disappeared, had Ibrahim 
 Pacha lived long enough to order them away, as he did remove 
 hundreds of similar obstructions between Cairo and the port of 
 Boulac, to the great convenience and salubrity of that neighbourhood. 
 
 Hekekyan Bey thus describes his own domestic routine, which I 
 believe gives a very good idea of private life in Egypt among the 
 higher classes. The Bey, his wife, and every member of his house- 
 hold, always rise before the sun. They then take one small cup of 
 coffee only, and at nine o’clock sit down to a more solid breakfast. 
 They dine at twelve, when a certain number of reduced ladies, whose 
 pensions from the Government are now in arrears, are daily invited 
 to eat at their table ; and if any chance visitors drop in, they also 
 partake of this noonday meal. Supper is served at six or half past, 
 and is generally considered to be the principal repast of the day. 
 
 We are frequently surprised at the unguarded freedom with which 
 
48 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 the conduct of Said Pacha is discussed and criticised. Like most 
 despotic princes, the present Viceroy appears to be easily influenced 
 at the moment by those around him ; but his character is naturally 
 impulsive and capricious, and he will often change his views for 
 very trifling cause. It is sometimes said that he gave early promise 
 of better things, before his disposition became gradually spoiled by 
 excessive power. Unbridled self-will and obstinacy often lead him 
 into grievous error; and his manner of speaking is described as an 
 unfortunate copy of a brusque old Bonapartist general, whose name 
 I do not now remember. That Said Pacha and his family anticipate 
 a change of government in this country, sooner or later, is very 
 strongly suspected ; and if common report may be believed, they 
 are saving money by the million, and “ making strong boxes ” of 
 specie, which they send to Constantinople — not by any means a 
 place of safety, one would suppose, — and accumulating immense 
 wealth in costly jewels, particularly diamonds ; and as an instance 
 of the latter part of the assertion, we are positively told that the 
 Viceroy has now in his possession three magnificent pipes — each of 
 them studded with diamonds, to the value of fifty thousand pounds 
 sterling. 
 
 Saturday, December Sth . — In spite of all we have declared to the 
 contrary, such is the general uncertainty of any traveller’s plan of 
 route, when he leaves home unfettered by a fixed object of pursuit, 
 that we have actually determined to make a voyage up the Nile as 
 far as Assouan and the island of Phil®. The second cataract fully 
 demands our notice, it is indeed most true ; but we should have 
 remembered Wady Haifa and the far-famed temples of Nubia, at the 
 very least, six weeks ago. We have now only two short months to 
 spare, or we shall surely miss the long-projected caravan to Petra. 
 An excursion to the second cataract of the Nile, and back to Cairo, 
 certainly requires more than three months, if ever so little time be 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 49 
 
 allowed for taking in supplies and sight-seeing. With all the ardour 
 of a fresh impulse, we started off directly after breakfast in search 
 of a clean and roomy dahabeeh. We are determined to make our- 
 selves as comfortable as possible, or not to go at all. Having already 
 been to Upper Egypt — and such unfavourable circumstances attending 
 our former voyage — we feel doubly inclined to be very cautious 
 now. Two large and well-appointed dahabeehs were offered us 
 for hire, either of which would have exactly suited ; but there 
 was no coming to terms at once, and we returned to the hotel 
 without concluding any definite bargain. By appointment, at three 
 o’clock we paid a visit to Hekekyan Bey and his wife. Their house 
 is large and handsome, with a noble stone staircase, and spacious 
 corridors. Broad divans round every room, and a few chairs and 
 tables, are thought sufficient furniture for an Egyptian mansion. 
 European sofas, cabinets, or consoles, cannot stand even a single 
 summer in this hot climate, but crack and split in pieces almost 
 directly. The divans are often so contrived as to have commodious 
 lockers underneath, where everything can be carefully stowed away ; 
 and Orientals seldom care enough for books, drawings, or in- 
 describable oh jets de fantaisie , to afford them a place of honour in 
 their chief apartments. Madame Hekekyan is tall and stout in figure, 
 with a fine expressive face, and very pleasing countenance. She wore 
 a Turkish dress, of dark brown cloth, a gauze kujjieh was on her 
 head, and her rich black hair hung down behind her shoulders in 
 a single plait, simply tied at the end with bows of black ribbon. 
 This lady’s education has not been neglected, like that of most other 
 Eastern dames ; and so far, at least, as the Armenian, Arabic, and 
 Turkish languages are concerned, Madame Hakekyan is a clever 
 linguist. Unhappily, her health is very delicate, and she occasionally 
 suffers much from pain and sickness. As usual, we were hospitably 
 entertained with pipes and coffee. 
 
 E 
 
50 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 The awful extent of blindness in this country is but too apparent, 
 and is truly sad to witness, — almost every third person among the 
 lower orders being in some degree afflicted with ophthalmia. Total 
 loss of sight is sure to follow neglect of this disease ; but, generally 
 speaking, the Egyptians are very kind and considerate to each other, 
 under these distressing circumstances. They regard a deformed or 
 crippled person as especially visited by God Himself, and thus made 
 worthy of their deepest reverence ; while insanity, in any form, is 
 always revered, and, indeed, half worshipped by the common people 
 of Egypt. 
 
 Sunday , December 9th . — We joined the two services to-day as 
 heretofore ; and just before dinner Hekekyan Bey and his wife called 
 to see us. The latter was dressed almost entirely in black, but of the 
 richest materials, and looked exceedingly handsome and ladylike. 
 During the short time of her visit she laid aside her large black silk 
 mantle and face-veil of white muslin ; and when she rose to take leave, 
 most good-naturedly showed me their pattern and the proper manner 
 of adjusting them, so as completely to envelope her whole person, and 
 render recognition impossible. 
 
 Monday , December 1(M. — A lovely and moderately warm day has 
 succeeded a rather cold and gloomy morning ; but whatever may be 
 the actual temperature, there is always a certain buoyancy in the 
 atmosphere that I never felt elsewhere. We went early to Mr. 
 Reichardt’s, to see his valuable collection of Hebrew coins, many of 
 which are of ancient date, and very interesting. Among others, I 
 particularly remembered the supposed facsimile of the “ widow’s mite,” 
 and of the “ tribute money.” Having spent some time at Jerusalem, 
 Mr. Reichardt has had good opportunities of collecting these rare 
 coins, one by one, at the neighbouring villages ; and his knowledge of 
 the Arabic language enabled him to mix freely with the natives, and 
 converse directly with all classes of the people. Mr. Reichardt’s theory 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 51 
 
 of accounting for the “ Ark of the Covenant,” and many other things 
 connected with Israelitish history, never having yet come to light in 
 these “ latter days,” is nearly as follows : — that they are intended by 
 the Almighty to remain hidden from mankind until our blessed Lord’s 
 second advent draws nigh, when they will all be brought forth as 
 indisputable evidences of the truth of Holy Writ, which even the most 
 sceptical of human beings will not dare to gainsay or deny. 
 
 From thence we went to Boulac, boat-hunting, and have seen a very 
 large and good clahabeeh, belonging to Mrs. Scully, an Irishwoman, 
 whose only daughter is married to Ali Bey. They all seem very 
 willing to meet us half way in an agreement, and promise to send a 
 final answer to-morrow evening. 
 
 We also visited the citadel, the view from whence is strikingly vast 
 and comprehensive. Immediately at our feet lay Cairo, adorned with 
 countless minarets, gardens and palm groves mingling with her far 
 extending suburbs. North-east lay the still fertile “ Land of Goshen.” 
 Westward and southward flowed the noble and majestic river Nile — 
 its rich luxuriant valley bounded by dreary wilderness, and a long 
 range of barren hills on either side ; while on the edge of the great 
 Libyan Desert stood apart those wondrous monuments of ancient days, 
 the mighty Pyramids of Ghizeh and Sakkara. Our guide pointed out 
 the spot from whence Emin Bey so daringly made his escape by 
 leaping his horse over the battlements, now kept clear from those 
 mounds of earth which are said to have at that time diminished their 
 exterior height ; and thus one may imagine the possibility of a feat 
 that now appears utterly fabulous. But apropos of this same tragedy — 
 this dark indelible stain upon the memory of Mohammed Ali Pacha. 
 That wary ruler knew full well those very Memlooks had conspired 
 against his life and government ; moreover, they were numerous and 
 powerful enough to succeed in their designs, unless themselves ex- 
 terminated by some sudden coup de main. In point of fact, compara- 
 
r>2 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 tively few were really slain on that eventful evening, by far the 
 greater number saved their lives by flight. But upon their name fell 
 irretrievable disgrace and ruin — all their power and prestige were 
 then totally and for ever destroyed. A stroke of Oriental policy must 
 be judged according to its own peculiar circumstances. 
 
 The great mosque within the citadel, built chiefly of Egyptian 
 alabaster, was commenced by Mohammed Ali, and finished by his 
 grandson Abbas Pacha. Two very tall minarets flanking the central 
 dome, are striking objects at a distance. On passing through the outer 
 gate we were required to put on a pair of slippers over our boots. 
 The spacious court, surrounded by a noble colonnade, has a most 
 beautiful alabaster fountain in the centre. Just within the entrance of 
 the mosque itself about a dozen grave-looking men were seated low on 
 carpets, while with nasal tone an aged imaum or moollah instructed 
 them in the Koran. The tomb of Mohammed Ali Pacha stands in 
 a small recess. Several rows of stained glass windows, circular in 
 form, are reflected in gorgeous hues upon the richly sculptured columns 
 of this splendid building. The citadel also contains a famous well, 
 commonly known by the name of “Joseph’s Well,” but probably the 
 work of Saladin. It is very deep, and a gradual winding descent 
 reaches nearly to the bottom. Filth and bad smells so quickly drove 
 us back into the open air, that we ventured but a short way down 
 its gloomy depths. Candles are here absolutely necessary, and we found 
 plenty of people ready to provide them. 
 
 To-day, for the first time, we passed through the Tunis bazaar, which 
 is very dark, and so exceedingly narrow that one can easily step across 
 from counter to counter without descending to the ground at all. 
 The chief commodities sold here are burnous cloaks, blankets, soap, 
 and perfumes. The perfumer’s distinguishing sign is a quantity of 
 waving tinsel and bright-coloured artificial flowers, suspended high in 
 front of his little shop. 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 An Egyptian woman of the humbler class will often carry a very 
 young baby in a large bag slung behind her back, but older children 
 are carried “ astride upon the shoulders,” and quite as frequently 
 astride on the hips, while a water-jar, or something else equally heavy, 
 is nicely poised upon the head. This habit, from an early age, of 
 carrying weights upon the head has secured an easy graceful carriage 
 to the female fellahin of Egypt, which the higher ranks do not seem 
 naturally to possess. Some of the Egyptian children, even when out 
 of doors, are very gaily and expensively attired ; but many others, 
 from a deeply rooted superstitious feeling, appear in public both ill-clad 
 and dirty — unattractive as it is possible for their parents to make 
 them — and thus perchance avoid the danger of an envious “ evil 
 eye.” 
 
 Tuesday , December 11th. — Since we came to Cairo, we have daily 
 seen people in the streets bearing wooden trays on their heads, filled 
 with saucers of clotted cream — very good when fresh and sweet. 
 Trays of bread and of sweetmeats also pass through the crowded 
 bazaars in perfect safety ; we never saw an accident happen to one 
 of them. 
 
 At last an agreement has been concluded with Mrs. Scully for the 
 hire of her dahabeeh. She demands 120/. for two months, and 
 promises to provide a sufficiency of plate, linen, and furniture, all in 
 excellent order. The crew consists of a reis (captain) a second reis, 
 whose constant duty is at the helm as steersman, ten sailors, and a boy 
 to fight the fire and do the scrubby work ; so that with ourselves, 
 our dragoman, Paolo Nuzzo, Hamed the cook, Salvo our general 
 servant, and the cook’s marmiton , we shall be an assemblage of 
 nineteen persons on board the “ Gazelle.” Paolo seems altogether 
 absorbed in purchases and preparations, that no time may be lost, as 
 we hope to start on Monday or Tuesday. 
 
 Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy, Bart., the great Parsee merchant, is now 
 
54 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 here, en route from England to Bombay. His servants wear high 
 Parsee caps, like those of the Persians, very unbecoming and 
 inconvenient, 
 
 Wednesday , December 12tli. — We are charmed with our boat, and 
 the readiness to oblige shown towards us by Mrs. Scully and her 
 son-in-law. This has been a much more agreeable day than yesterday, 
 when the wind was so high I could hardly keep my hat on my head, 
 and the dust quite stifling. Oil our return from Boulac we rode 
 through some of the more ancient streets of the city. How we mourn 
 over the fine old mosques, so fast crumbling away ! Truly it is not the 
 tottering power of the Crescent or the false religion of Mohammed that 
 one laments to see gradually dying out and sinking into decrepitude. 
 But what a glorious sound to hear the anthem peal of Christian 
 congregations arise in praises unto Him, “ Whose kingdom is an 
 everlasting kingdom,” within those very temples where the deluded 
 Moslem has for ages worshipped an Almighty Being, of whose attributes 
 he is deplorably ignorant, and to whose most blessed Son he blindly 
 denies His holy mission as our Kedeemer. The sacred Koran assigns 
 to Him a place among the fallen sons of earth alone. Surely, “ the 
 night is far spent, the day is at hand.” 
 
 Thursday , December 1 3/A. — Hekekyan Bey, with whom we dined 
 to-day, is of opinion that the idea of alternate horizontal stripes of 
 red and white paint upon the outside of mosques and houses originated 
 in the erection of Solomon’s Temple at Jerusalem, which was con- 
 structed of alternate layers of stone and cedar-wood, from Mount 
 Lebanon. Such a style of building would be a most effectual means 
 of resisting the shocks of earthquakes, to which these hot countries 
 are so constantly liable ; and for the same reason, this plan of 
 constructing houses in alternate layers of wood and stone is very 
 generally adopted at Constantinople. 
 
 I have been riding for two hours in the Desert with Hekekyan 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 55 
 
 Bey, who allowed me to mount one of his handsome, well-trained 
 dromedaries. The trot of these animals is scarcely more fatiguing 
 than that of a rough going horse. At the Bey’s request, I dis- 
 guised myself as a Bedouin Arab, with a white burnous covering the 
 shoulders, and a large Jcuffieh on my head, bound by the usual rope of 
 camel’s hair and silken cord. I fomid a great difference in comfort 
 between this dromedary, with its perfect accoutrements, and the un- 
 tutored camels of Arabia Petrea. 
 
 Friday , December lDh. — Hakim Burguieres Bey has given us a 
 list of medicines proper to take up the Nile ; since it is necessary to 
 provide against ophthalmic and other incidental disorders, as well as to 
 prepare for wounds, bruises, and, if possible, bites of insects. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Edward 0. Douglas sailed to-day for Upper Egypt ; 
 unfortunately the wind is quite against them, and they will make 
 but little progress. We had an excellent “ tea ” at Mrs. Lieder’s this 
 evening, and spent a couple of hours very pleasantly in looking over 
 her own and her friend Miss DanielTs valuable collection of Egyptian 
 curiosities, and also in listening to the latter, as she read some extracts 
 from her manuscript journal, of a tour in the Sinai tic Peninsula. Her 
 account of the wonderful Bell Mountain, near Tor, is particularly 
 graphic and spirited. We always enjoy a nocturnal ride along the 
 quaint streets of genuine Cairo, and those near Mrs. Lieder’s house are 
 famous specimens of that good old mode of building, so suitable to the 
 burning sun of Egypt. There are gates leading into this and other 
 quarters of the city, always closed and locked at nightfall, but at once 
 opened by the guard on payment of a few piastres ; so that the Jews’ 
 Quarter is not singular in this respect. 
 
 Saturday, December 15 th. — My husband accompanied Hakim 
 Burguieres Bey, at seven a.m. to visit the Hospital and School of 
 Medicine, at Old Cairo, and the following is his own account of this 
 most excellent establishment. It is gratifying to know that the ruling 
 
 £ 4 
 
50 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 ] lowers of Egypt are sufficiently enlightened to appreciate so great a 
 blessing. 
 
 “ Through the kindness and courtesy of Dr. Burguieres Bey, who 
 “ enjoys, and most deservedly, the confidence of the Viceroy of Egypt, I 
 “ was able to visit the great military hospital at Cairo, which is under 
 “ his direction and control; it is most advantageously situated, near the 
 “ very extensive barracks, on a branch of the Nile, commanding fine air, 
 “ excellent water, and perfect drainage. This large hospital was built 
 “ by Mohammed Ah to contain 1200 patients, but at the time that I was 
 “ there, there were only about 500 ; it forms three sides of a very 
 “ fine open square, with large trees standing in the centre : each side is 
 “ about 300 feet long. The building is two stories high, entered by 
 “ wide stone stairs from the outside, the upper story by a bold wide 
 “ staircase from the first story corridor ; the connecting corridors afford 
 “ an easy communication from one end to the other; they are very 
 “ wide and lofty, thereby affording thorough ventilation to the several 
 “ wards on either side ; these wards have very large windows opposite 
 “ the corridors, which give the rooms a light and cheerful appearance, 
 “ and at the same time afford abundant ventilation to the rooms tliem- 
 “ selves. The hospital is appropriated to four distinct classes of 
 
 “ complaints ; namely, ophthalmia, and other affections of the eyes ; 
 “ cases for surgical treatment and operations ; fevers ; and cutaneous 
 “ diseases. Each patient has a comfortable bed, placed on an iron 
 “ bedstead ; and affixed to the wall, over his head, is a board painted 
 “ black, on which is written the particular complaint, and the treatment 
 “ prescribed by the medical officer under whose charge the ward is 
 “ placed. By this means, the medical director can see, on each 
 
 “ morning, when he visits the ward, which he does at a very early hour, 
 “ whether the treatment is judicious and proper, and if not considered 
 “ so, can alter it. The beds are placed with the patient’s head to the 
 “ wall having the window in it, by which the glare of light is avoided to 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 57 
 
 “ the poor sufferer ; a space of some feet is left between each bed, so 
 “ that in every way that a thoughtful and humane mind can suggest, 
 “ the ventilation is fully secured, an object so necessary and essential 
 “ in such a climate as that of Egypt, tending as it unquestionably must 
 “ do, to alleviate the sufferings of the unfortunate objects themselves. 
 “ I was informed that, in case of necessity, the amount of accom- 
 “ modation could be doubled, by placing beds on the opposite side of 
 “ each ward. There were thirty beds in each room I visited, which 
 “ I presume was the average number ; the beds were very clean and 
 “ neat, great order and regularity prevailed everywhere ; and I was 
 “ highly gratified by observing the kind and gentle manner of the 
 “ numerous officers and attendants to the poor patients confided to their 
 “ charge — far beyond that of common humanity to a fellow-creature, 
 “ stricken by sickness, accident, or other misfortune — looking to those 
 “ in whose charge he is placed, and at whose hands he may be relieved 
 “ or mismanaged. There is another highly important object to attain, 
 “ which is to assure the poor creatures that their cases interest and 
 “ concern the officers of the hospital, and who feel anxious to relieve 
 “ them and to restore them to health, and return them speedily to their 
 “ families and friends. Each ward is constantly visited by resident 
 “ surgeons, both Arabs and Europeans, so that each feature in the 
 “ complaint is instantly observed and treated as the exigency of the 
 ‘ case requires. The wards appropriated to ophthalmic and other 
 “ complaints of the eyes, are coloured blue, which prevents the glare 
 “ of light, and gives a soft and subdued tone to the rooms, and 
 “ thus relieves the patient from the strong glare of an Eastern sun. 
 
 “ I cannot close my remarks on the wards in the hospital at Cairo 
 “ without expressing my humble admiration of the great cleanliness, 
 “ good system, and regularity which pervade throughout the whole of 
 “ them — a credit to the different officers in charge — under the good 
 “ management of Dr. Burguieres Bey, who appeared to me to take 
 
58 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 “ great pride and pleasure in this noble institution over which he 
 “ so worthily presides. Without offering myself as any authority 
 “ as to the management of an hospital, yet, I do consider myself 
 “ competent to form some opinion on the same, having devoted much 
 “ attention, during many years, to the subject of hospitals in general, 
 “ and had the honour of presiding over the management of two such 
 “ institutions in my own country ; without hesitation, I venture to 
 “ say, that many very valuable suggestions for the benefit of similar 
 “ establishments might be taken from the Military Hospital at Cairo. 
 
 “ A surgeon, with two assistants (more if necessaiy), is always in 
 “ attendance, to act on any sudden emergency. Every patient, on ad- 
 “ mission, is brought before Dr. Burguieres Bey, by the officer in 
 “ charge of the division appropriated to the particular nature of his 
 “ complaint. He produces the paper given to him by the medical 
 “ man who sent him into the hospital, in which is stated the nature 
 “ of the disease, and the treatment pursued, if it possesses any peculiar 
 “ or uncommon feature. Dr. Burguieres Bey examines into it most 
 “ closely, as he did in many cases when I was with him, taking notes of 
 “ some, for his future guidance ; and as he gives lectures to the pupils 
 “ in the School of Medicine attached to the hospital, they have the 
 “ benefit of his great professional experience in cases which other 
 “ medical men might not have had the opportunity of observing and 
 “ treating. Whilst on this part of my very imperfect notice, I will 
 “ mention that there is an admirable school of medicine adjoining to, 
 “ and connected with this hospital, with every accommodation for one 
 “ hundred pupils. Lectures are regularly given in the lecture-rooms, 
 “ on the various branches of surgery and medicine by the professors 
 “ (chiefly Europeans). I had an opportunity of attending a lecture 
 “ by the French Professor of Medicine ; each sentence was explained 
 “ and translated to the pupils, who were chiefly Arabs, in their own 
 “ language, by an Arab Professor who sat beside him. Lectures are 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 59 
 
 “ given in both Arabic and French. The French language is taught, 
 “ that the pupils may keep themselves au courant in the science, by 
 “ reading the journals and other medical works written in that language. 
 “ It was vacation time when I was there, and there were only nineteen 
 “ pupils in the room, who appeared to be most attentive to what was 
 “ said to them. On our entering the room they all stood up, remaining 
 “ so until Dr. Burguieres Bey requested them to be seated, and on our 
 “ retiring the same was repeated, thus marking their sense of respect 
 “ and esteem for the learned President of the Institution. I was 
 “ informed that the average number of pupils was seventy, and often 
 “ the full number. It is impossible almost to conceive the incalculable 
 “ benefits which the native population must henceforward derive from 
 “ having medical men of their own creed and country ; old prejudices 
 “ will be overcome, and they will gladly avail themselves of medical 
 “ skill which before they had rejected, perhaps cordially despised. The 
 “ pupils have the advantage of attending daily the surgeons and dressers 
 “ in the different wards, thereby deriving practical experience in their 
 “ profession which they could not otherwise obtain. There is another 
 “ matter which, in my opinion, bespeaks brighter days nigh at hand 
 “ for the people in the East ; already I see a glimmering of light 
 “ breaking in upon the Moslem’s hard and savage heart. Hitherto 
 “ woman in Egypt, and in the East generally, has been looked upon as 
 “ an inferior being of creation — that she was made merely to be a 
 “ drudge in man’s domestic life, to administer to his daily wants, to 
 “ herd his cattle, nurse his children, till the ground, and gratify his 
 “ sensual appetite ; never admitted to be a companion in his home, to 
 “ share his sufferings and his trials, his sorrows and his jftys — denied 
 “ the rights and privileges of her sex as we recognise and observe 
 “ them — debarred, by time-hallowed custom and benighted fanaticism, 
 “ from all tender commiseration and sympathy in her wasting 
 “ sickness and her hour of peril, left to perish like a dog, without 
 
60 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 “ one friendly hand to help her in her distress, to breathe one word 
 “ of comfort in her dying hour. I have seen men, in the villages on 
 “ the banks of the Nile, beating women with all the ferocity of savage 
 “ barbarity, and that too, at the time when she has been in that state 
 “ which ought to have excited his pity and protection. By the 
 “ humane and Christian efforts of Dr. Burguieres Bey, and others like 
 “ him, this state of things will soon pass away, to be remembered 
 “ only with horror and regret. Attached to, but perfectly detached 
 “ from this hospital, there is now an hospital for women. Here, one 
 “ hundred and fifty poor suffering creatures, from every distant part of 
 “ Egypt, are nursed and attended to with solicitude and care. Who 
 “ can tell the extent of good this message of mercy may effect, not 
 “ only to the poor sufferers themselves, but also by inspiring confidence 
 “ in medicine and surgery, conveying to man, in the interior of the 
 “ country, the evidence that woman, whom he ought to cherish and 
 “ protect, in place of treating her as he does — even worse than his ox 
 “ or ass — is regarded, treated and cherished equal with himself. With 
 “ these facts before me, am I not warranted in assuming that the time 
 “ has arrived when superstitious contempt, and even hatred, must give 
 “ way before enlightenment and civilisation in the East. It is well 
 “ worthy of particular remark, that Dr. Burguieres Bey has established 
 “ in this hospital a school of practical anatomy, and that it is the only 
 “ school for that branch of science to be found in any nation under 
 “ Mahommedan rule. The dissecting-room was beautifully clean, well 
 “ lighted and ventilated, and very large ; around the room, against the 
 “ walls, were glass cases, containing specimens and subjects connected 
 “ with the department, and beautifully wrought models, in papier 
 “ maclie, of the whole human system, showing the most minute part 
 “ of that wonderful mechanism — man ; so that the pupils have the 
 “ real and imitated structure to study and observe upon. The subjects 
 “ for the lectures in the dissecting-room are those who die in the 
 
CATKO. 
 
 r,i 
 
 “ hospital, and who are afterwards decently interred in the cemetery 
 “ close by. There is a chemical laboratory, where the pupils are 
 “ taught the preparation of the different medicines from herbs, &c. 
 “ The baths, Turkish and others, are very large and clean ; the 
 “ kitchens are most complete and very extensive, the very best of 
 “ animal food, bread and vegetables, most amply provided. A pupil 
 “ in the School of Medicine is daily on duty in each department, to 
 “ be instructed in the proper preparation and distribution of the 
 “ food, and also to report to the President if he sees anything in- 
 “ correct or improper ; there is also a botanic garden attached to the 
 “ hospital, in which are grown the various herbs used in medicine. 
 “ In short, I consider that every department reflects the greatest credit, 
 “ and deserves the highest encomium that can be passed upon this ex- 
 “ cellent institution. As regards Dr. Burguieres Bey, the sick and 
 “ unfortunate must feel that they owe very much to that humane 
 “ gentleman for the able and considerate attention given by him to 
 “ ensure their comfort and to promote their speedy recovery ; and the 
 “ pupils in the school must ever stand deeply indebted to him for the 
 “ very judicious and comprehensive manner in which he has provided 
 “ for their future advancement and proficiency in their profession. I 
 “ needed no assurance from the poor patients themselves that they 
 “ were kindly treated and cared for, their countenances brightened up 
 “ under their sufferings as Dr. Burguieres Bey spoke to them, which 
 “ sufficiently told me that they were happy under his care. On his 
 “ recommendation, the present Viceroy of Egypt has made very 
 “ extensive additions to this hospital, which though originally intended 
 “ to be strictly a military establishment, now extends its beneficent 
 “ arm to relieve the sufferings of the poor inhabitants of the villages 
 “ around. I feel that I have very imperfectly and most inadequately 
 “ described what I had the good fortune of seeing through Dr. 
 “ Burguieres Bey’s kindness, and should that gentleman ever see this 
 
62 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 “ poor description of the Great Hospital at Cairo under his presidency, 
 “ I trust he will pardon and overlook its many imperfections and 
 “ shortcomings. I cannot close these remarks without recording the 
 “ gratification I derived from hearing from the medical officers, and 
 “ observing the fact myself, how much he is looked up to, and 
 “ respected and esteemed by those in authority under him. The sick 
 “ and suffering have in him a kind benefactor and sympathising 
 “ friend, and the institution, and its professors and officers, a skilful, 
 “ courteous, and zealous director and chief.” 
 
 The people themselves are gradually learning its inestimable value ; 
 although, when we remarked to our two donkey-boys that, if they 
 were sick, they would be glad of this comfortable place, where all 
 those who want help are carefully nursed and made well again, Said 
 replied : “ What for I go there ? I no want hakim when I be ill ; 
 my God my hakim.” Ah told me his father was nearly blind, and 
 spoke very nicely and affectionately on the subject, adding that as 
 long as he lived he would do his best to take care of him. Indeed, 
 these boys, and I believe Egyptians generally, both love and reverence 
 their parents, and they all appear to have by nature many kind and 
 generous feelings towards each other. I told Ah I was very sorry 
 to hear his father suffered from loss of sight, and that my own was 
 far from good. “ Never mind,” he said ; “ it is God send it, you no 
 make it yourself.” Mohammed, a respectable-looking man in our 
 employment, to whom I spoke one day, informed me that he had 
 two young daughters. I asked whether he had them taught to read. 
 He seemed quite amused at my question, and answered, with a smile : 
 “ What use for de girl learn read ? much better learn make cloth 
 for de clothes.” We passed through a very crowded market, at the 
 entrance of the Shoobra road, and through another still more densely- 
 thronged mart at Boulac. Nothing could exceed the quiet civility of 
 these people, who made way for us to the best of their power ; but 
 
CAIHO. 
 
 63 
 
 we instinctively shrunk from contact with their dirty persons and 
 most filthy ragged garments. Chiefly owing to the disturbed state 
 of both Italy and Syria, there are a greater number of travellers in 
 Egypt this year than usnal. Some few remain at Cairo, or spend a 
 short time at Suez ; but the Nile is still the grand attraction to 
 strangers from every part of the world. This afternoon we visited 
 the most ancient mosque at Cairo, that of Ahmed-ebn-e-Tooloon. Sir 
 Gardner Wilkinson says this mosque “ is built on the plan of the /Caaba 
 at Mecca, which seems to have been that of all the oldest mosques 
 founded by the Moslems.” A large open court forms the centre of 
 this building, surrounded by lofty colonnades. The edifice is fast falling 
 to decay ; an outer wall is built around it. We ascended one of 
 the four minarets by a winding staircase, in many places much broken, 
 but were amply rewarded by a splendid panoramic view of Cairo 
 and its environs, including the gigantic pyramids of Ghizeh and 
 Sakkara. The view from hence appeared to us even finer and more 
 extensive than that from the citadel, itself a prominent object in 
 sight. Several noisy people were in the court ; but except an 
 occasional cry for backsheesh , they did not attempt to interfere with 
 us. The mosque immediately below the citadel, called “ Jama-t-e-Sultan 
 Hassan,” is very justly considered the handsomest of them all ; but, 
 alas ! too rapidly falling into ruins. On entering, we were required 
 to put on slippers of plaited palm leaves, made in such a careless 
 manner that it was with the greatest difficulty we could coax them 
 to stay on our feet. It is impossible adequately to describe the 
 lofty and richly-sculptured porch, the beautiful minaret, or the noble 
 architecture of its mosaic-paved and spacious court. Upon the tomb 
 of Sultan Hassan, to whom this mosque is dedicated, lies a very large 
 copy of the Koran, upon which every visitor is expected to throw, 
 between the railings, some small piece of money. The stone used 
 in the erection of this building, and, indeed, of many others, was 
 
G4 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 brought from the pyramids. The Moslems openly express their 
 belief that the religion of Mohammed is doomed to be eventually 
 exterminated, and give way to Christianity. Why then, we ask, do 
 they yet so devotedly adhere to it ? All we see and learn of these 
 misguided people is contradictory and unaccountable. Oh for one 
 ray of Gospel truth upon this now most unhappy land ! Miss Cow, 
 to whom I have already alluded, as English governess in the liareem 
 of Mustafa Pacha, has many onerous difficulties and restrictions to 
 encounter ; although very kindly treated, and often receiving handsome 
 presents, in addition to her salary of 500/. per annum. She is freely 
 permitted to attend her own place of worship, and we regularly 
 saw her at church on a Sunday, but is strictly forbidden to give 
 her pupil any religious instruction whatever. The little princess is 
 daily taught a lesson from the Koran by a bigoted old moollah, 
 who cordially detests the poor governess, because she is a Christian, 
 dreads her growing influence over the child, and does all he possibly 
 can to undermine her authority. These are hard trials ; but, at least, 
 Miss Cow will not be discouraged, and earnestly endeavours to check 
 the sad habit of falsehood-telling, so lightly regarded among Moham- 
 medans, to the very best of her power. This has been a vain 
 attempt hitherto ; but still the lady perseveres. If she says, “ God 
 will not love you, if you tell lies,” the answer she at once receives 
 is very disheartening. “ I don’t want your God to love me ; my 
 God will, even if I do tell a lie, because I’m a good Mussulman ! ” 
 Moreover, it is stipulated that Miss Cow is on no account to make 
 her pupil cry ; an injunction perfectly understood by the pretty and 
 clever little girl, who begins to roar loudly, the moment anything 
 displeases her or contradicts her wayward humour. 
 
 Sunday , December 1 6th . — A great many English and American 
 travellers have left Cairo during the past week, and are not yet 
 succeeded by others. Thus the two services of this day were 
 
BOULAC. 
 
 65 
 
 attended by smaller congregations than usual. On our own part, 
 we regret that so many weeks must now elapse before we can 
 again have the advantage of joining in public worship. 
 
 Monday, December 17 th. — This morning was devoted to packing, 
 and paying visits. After luncheon we went on board “ La Gazelle.” 
 We are already quite charmed with the unusual size of the cabin 
 and upper deck, and with the extreme neatness and cleanliness of 
 every part of the vessel. It was a truly delightful change from 
 the dust and noise of Cairo to the quiet and luxurious comfort of 
 our yacht. The dinner too, was quite sumptuous, in comparison 
 with the tough and badly-cooked viands we have had for the last 
 month. The hours of meals are fixed as follows : — Salvo is to 
 call us in a morning at seven o’clock, bringing to each a little 
 cup of coffee and a kettle of hot water ; breakfast at nine ; fruit 
 and biscuits at half-past twelve ; dinner at three, followed by a pipe 
 on deck ; tea or coffee at seven, and kettles of hot water again at 
 bed-time. 
 
 Tuesday, December 1 8th We continue to appreciate the quietude 
 
 of our dahabeeh, in spite of a very few fleas’ last night, and, what 
 was still more objectionable, a great many rats, which incessantly 
 ran to and fro along the passage. These most unwelcome intruders 
 have left traces of their presence by serious depredations among 
 Paolo’s sweetmeats and other provisions. The boat is of iron, and 
 therefore we hoped to be free from this annoyance, now probably 
 caused by our lying close to the shore ; so we are to move off, 
 before dark this evening, into the middle of the stream. The wind 
 is decidedly ahead, and thus we cannot yet expect to be “ under 
 weigh.” We have had a dinner-party to-day, and a most suc- 
 cessful piece of hospitality it was ; thanks to the good humour of 
 our friends, and some degree of novelty in the circumstance. The 
 reis and crew all looked so well, in their new white turbans and 
 
 F 
 
THE NILE. 
 
 6G 
 
 blue cotton shirts, that we felt quite proud of our menage. For 
 coolness, the table was spread on deck, beneath an awning ; and 
 when we had dined, we all retired to the saloon, to avoid the 
 swarms of flies, and where we found our books, flowers, and 
 photographs arranged to wonderful advantage. On the departure 
 of our guests, we rode to Cairo for letters, returning to “ La Gazelle ” 
 just after sunset. 
 
 Wednesday , December KM. — Persian insect powder has sensibly 
 diminished the plague of fleas, and I really think there is only one 
 rat left. Mrs. Scully’s carpenter was hammering away for an hour 
 this morning ; so that if any more of them attempt to come on 
 board, they must lay hard siege to our stronghold. Towards noon 
 the wind changed from foul to fair, and we gallantly set sail from 
 Boulac at half-past twelve. Casa Nil, the large palace and barracks 
 built by Said Pasha, the present Viceroy, stand close to the water’s- 
 edge, forming three sides of a square. We did not proceed very 
 far before a discovery was made that, if — as there was every 
 probability — the wind soon veered to the south again, our poor 
 pigeons and poultry would be starved, for want of corn ! Something 
 is invariably forgotten at the commencement of an Eastern journey, 
 whether by land or by water ; and we cared but little what might 
 be the alleged excuse for a stoppage. We had no other alternative 
 but to submit patiently to a short delay, which in our case was, 
 after all, of no great consequence ; and within an hour — we were 
 surprised it was only an hour — we had made a fresh start, and 
 were gently gliding up the river as before. At half-past one we 
 passed the island of Rhoda, on our right, and Old Cairo, — the 
 Egyptian Babylon, — on our left, followed by a fleet of fifteen 
 dahabdehs and cangias, their snowy canvas yielding to the breeze. 
 The weather was lovely, and after dinner we sat on deck, two 
 comfortable arm-chairs being .placed ready for our use, while the sun 
 
THE NILE. 
 
 67 
 
 sank below the western horizon, leaving that after-glow so peculiar 
 to the glorious sunsets of Egypt. The live stock look sadly cramped 
 in their wooden crates, and will rejoice some day to have a run on 
 shore. For ourselves, we cannot thus complain, as our upper deck 
 is spacious enough to allow of exercise, whenever we may be unable 
 to land. A steady round table contains a few books, writing materials, 
 and our telescope, — the skylight making a most comfortable divan, 
 when a well-stuffed cushion is spread over it. Next to the splendid 
 Nile itself, we cease not to admire those pretty latteen sails, 
 which, like huge birds with wide extended wings, move slowly and 
 majestically upon the water. We make very slow progress, although 
 what little wind we have is in our favour ; and when the sun is 
 too powerful, we have an effectual shade in an awning, sufficiently 
 large to cover in the sides on deck ; but still the snug saloon must 
 always be our best retreat during the hottest part of each day. On 
 passing Toora, where the Viceroy has his gunpowder factory, we 
 saw some of the Dromedary and Horse Artillery, while a far more 
 interesting and solemn sight arrested our attention on the Libyan 
 shore, — Ghizeh, Sakkara, Dashoor, — three solemnly majestic groups 
 in view at once, so truly called “grim sentinels of death,” — gigantic 
 pyramids, their outlines strangely sharp and clear against that deep 
 blue sky, — sepulchral monuments of old Egyptian kings, whose very 
 names have perished from earth’s record, while their massive slnines 
 are proudly destined to resist all time. 
 
 Thursday , December 20 th. — A cold and contrary wind when we 
 first awoke this morning, soon settled down into a dead calm. We 
 began to move at seven a.m., nine of our Arabs towing with all 
 their might, aided wonderfully, as it seemed, by their wildly mono- 
 tonous singing, and at nine o’clock we stopped for half-an-hour, until 
 the sailors had breakfasted. The thermometer in the saloon stood so 
 low as 50°, but we were not nearly so much plagued by flies as here- 
 
 F 2 
 
68 
 
 TIIE NILE. 
 
 tofore. At half-past ten, we found ourselves on a line with the 
 Pyramids of Dashoor, which are built of brick, and are generally 
 supposed the most ancient of them all. At noon we went on shore, 
 and enjoyed an hour’s walk upon the left bank. Numbers of fellahin 
 were busily at work in the fields, and we saw a very pretty young 
 camel, about two months old ; for at that age camels are not yet the 
 awkward, clumsy animals they soon afterwards become. Groves of 
 tall palm, or fine acacia trees, mark the site of every wretched mud- 
 built village, and give them all a picturesque appearance, which 
 entirely vanishes on a near approach. We passed large tracts of 
 wheat and clover ; and brought back with us a specimen of the tough 
 fibrous palm- wood, used for thatching houses and making ropes ; 
 a leaf of trefoil clover, and a piece of sun-dried brick mixed with 
 stubble, like those made by the Children of Israel in the days of 
 their cruel bondage. An immense cargo of that beautifully-packed 
 straw, from Upper Egypt, which so often excites the wonder and 
 admiration of travellers, glided slowly down with the current, towards 
 Cairo. As usual, this heavy load was packed upon two boats lashed 
 together, and looked like one enormous mass of hewn rock. There 
 has been a dead calm all day, and our poor Arabs may well be tired 
 with their laborious work of towing. Last night, soon after sunset, 
 we anchored off a village called Bedreshayn, about sixteen miles 
 from Cairo ; and to-night we shall stop ten miles further south, at 
 Kafr-el-Iyat. 
 
 Friday , December 21st . — Off at seven a. m., no wind, and the 
 Arabs towing hard until nine o’clock, as yesterday. We certainly 
 cannot complain of want of punctuality on board “ La Gazelle,” for 
 our daily arrangements proceed like clockwork. After breakfast, 
 the wind got up a little — a side wind — and the sail was spread for 
 a while ; but towing very soon began again, and three of our men 
 were obliged to swim for a feAV yards, having slipped into the river 
 
Till] NILE. 
 
 G9 
 
 where the bank had given way. These landslips are very frequent, 
 and it is for that reason rather dangerous at any time to walk near 
 the water’s edge. A gaily painted steamboat passes every now and 
 then. I cannot bear to see such bold intruders on this sacred stream, 
 nor do I ever hear their noisy paddles ruthlessly ploughing up these 
 calm waters, without an inexpressible feeling of indignation and 
 disgust, that “ Progress,” in its most offensive form, should dare to 
 reach so far. The early dinner ended, we enjoyed our long 
 chibouques on deck, quite a la Turc, with cusliions laid upon 
 the floor, and walked for an hour and a half before sunset, on the 
 left bank, passing close by two small villages. We had our 
 usual practice with the revolvers, which we always carry with 
 us, and have no fear whatever of molestation. From one of these 
 villages a troop of wild, fierce dogs rushed out to meet us, just 
 like a pack of howling wolves ; but such cowardly animals are 
 very easily driven back, and the instant our dragoman — for once 
 actually warlike — raised high his formidable walking-stick, away 
 they scampered, crestfallen and terrified — though still with angry 
 scowls and muttered imprecations — true facsimiles of many a loud 
 and threatening “ Bravo ” all the wide world over. Tobacco chiefly 
 was cultivated hereabouts, by the fellahin. and we saw some men at 
 work near the river, caulking a large boat. My husband thought 
 they did this business very clumsily, although he confessed that the 
 boat itself was built of excellent oak. We walked for some time 
 .by our sailors, encouraging them as they gaily towed along our 
 beautiful “ Gazelle.” How nice she looked from a little distance, 
 reflected clearly, with all her fair proportions, in the golden stream, 
 at sunset ! From stem to stern, the entire length of this well planned 
 dahabeeh, is seventy-six feet ; breadth, fourteen feet ; depth, three 
 feet inside ; draught of water, three feet five inches, forward , and 
 two feet ten inches, aft. The saloon is thirteen feet six inches long, 
 
70 
 
 TIIE NILE. 
 
 fourteen feet six inches wide, and six feet nine inches high. Two 
 dressing-rooms are eacli eight feet wide and seven feet long ; the 
 bath-room is six feet six inches long and five feet wide ; bed-room, 
 twelve feet long, fourteen feet wide ; passage, thirteen feet long and 
 three feet wide. Every Nile boat hoists her own pennon and flag, 
 according to the particular nation to which each traveller belongs. 
 This same national flag effectually guarantees the Eeis and crew from 
 being seized unawares for the Pasha’s service, on any possible pre- 
 text, during the time they remain on board. Each night we have 
 a guard of three men, from the nearest village where we stop, who 
 are paid for this service by the Egyptian Government. They sit all 
 night upon the bank, by a blazing watch-fire, close to our dahabeeh, 
 and Paolo makes them a present of four piastres each — an Egyptian 
 piastre is worth about twopence halfpenny — for the additional 
 trouble of procuring milk, two quarts of which cost three piastres 
 more, I think we have now bid adieu, for a time, to the three 
 grand sets of Pyramids, all distinctly visible, at an early hour this 
 morning. The “ False Pyramid,” as it is generally called, is now in 
 sight ; it stands W. S. W. from Eigga, on the left bank of the Nile. 
 To all appearance, judging by water-lines upon the shore here, the 
 river, at this part of its course, must have risen nearly twenty-four 
 feet during the last inundation. The rich alluvial soil is everywhere 
 abundant, and most remarkable. 
 
 Saturday , December 22nd , — Owing to the very unusual circumstance 
 of a few hours’ heavy rain, the air last night felt damp and rather 
 chilly. To-day we walked some time on the eastern bank of the 
 river, where the lately moistened earth is now quite parched and 
 dry ; lying here and there in hard square blocks, split regularly into 
 thin smooth layers like the half-open leaves of a well-thumbed book. 
 Quantities of natron collected by the fellahin lay piled in heaps, ready 
 for a boat to take it down to Boulac. Towards evening “ La Gazelle ” 
 
TIIE NILE. 
 
 71 
 
 was rowed across to a village on tlie western side — distant, we imagine, 
 forty miles from Cairo — while we sat on deck, admiring one of the 
 most gorgeously magnificent of even Egyptian sunsets ; then turning 
 to observe the varied figures in our dahabeeh , each one a perfect 
 picture in itself. Eeis Osman is a tall and handsome Nubian, always 
 well dressed, with very courteous manners, and has evidently great 
 influence over his men ; the second Eeis is also good-looking, ex- 
 ceedingly civil, and attentive to his duty. Indeed, all our sailors 
 appear to be well conducted, and have so far given us great satisfaction. 
 Paolo usually wears a common Arab dress of dark brown cloth ; 
 Salvo alone prefers the European costume ; while our cook is distin- 
 guished from the rest by his under-dress of rich Damascus silk, 
 brown cloth cloak handsomely braided, a yellow turban, and a white 
 burnous. 
 
 Sunday, December 2Zrd . — Delightfully warm bright weather, but 
 not one breath of wind ; and we pity the poor sailors, who have toiled 
 very hard all day. The prevailing wind in Egypt at this season 
 of the year, is contrary to vessels going up the Nile ; and travellers 
 should always regulate their plans accordingly, to avoid the risk of 
 future disappointment. After dinner we had a stroll on shore, just 
 where the stream bends a little, at a short distance from the mouth 
 of a wide canal, extending all the way to Gliizeh, and which is spanned 
 about a hundred yards from the river, by a viaduct of seven arches. 
 We passed some fellahin sitting over a cheerful fire, and making 
 preparations for their evening meal, while others were occupied in 
 thrashing out corn with common sticks. Our path lay through fields 
 of tobacco, beans and lentils. The lentils are dried like peas, and 
 used for soup, which is excellent when well made. A cargo-boat, 
 laden with cotton seed, lay moored to the bank ; and we saw several 
 men with a long rope preparing to swim across the river, and tow 
 their boat after them ; they took off all their clothes, and lied them 
 
 r 4 
 
72 
 
 TIIE NILE. 
 
 in a bundle on their heads. At nightfall we anchored near the village 
 of Eigga. 
 
 Monday , December 24th. — Still no wind for some time, and the 
 sailors towing as indefatigably as ever. Besides this, we had another 
 grievance ; I heard more than once an odious noise of gnawing and 
 grinding under my bed last night, and soon found out this morning 
 that a hungry rat had not only left his well-picked bone in the locker, 
 but had also supped upon my linen, as an additional relish to his 
 solitary feast. I believe these disgusting plagues exist more or less 
 in every Nile boat ; we had them in great numbers on board the 
 “ Clothilde,” and cockroaches besides, which have not yet made 
 their appearance on om’ present voyage. Paolo informs us that Mr. 
 Stephens, the American traveller, had his dahabeeh sunk, at Thebes, 
 in a vain attempt to dislodge the rats, which ate his clothes and 
 provisions, and supposing that they would forthwith leave the boat 
 and not stay to be drowned. However, they did remain, and conse- 
 quently the stench was almost intolerable for at least a fortnight 
 afterwards. About eleven a.m. the wind had changed to a more 
 favourable point, and the sail was spread for several hours. The 
 
 Arabs were naturally so delighted at any respite from their hard 
 labour, that they immediately produced their rudely formed musical 
 instruments, and began to play and sing in that drawling monotonous 
 tone of voice, which is, nevertheless, real enjoyment to themselves ; 
 and I must confess I have learnt to like such music far better than 
 the more polished cadences of an Italian opera. Our poor fellows 
 have lately been so fatigued and exhausted when evening came, that 
 they seemed to have no heart for pleasure, although their buoyant 
 spirits and merry laughter seldom Hag for very long together, nor 
 do they ever murmur when required to row, or jump on shore to 
 draw the tow-rope, but instantly and cheerfully obey without a word. 
 About two o’clock we crossed the telegraph, which extends from 
 
THE NILE. 
 
 73 
 
 Cairo to Luxor, and passes under water a few miles below Beni-soef, 
 from the right to the left bank of the Nile. A large flat-boat went 
 swiftly by towards Cairo, laden with earthen water-jars and bottles 
 from ATeneh. They were slung low over both sides of the vessel, 
 closely packed in large nets, and had rather an odd appearance until 
 we knew what they really were. One of the Government steamers 
 also went by, with English travellers on board. She will take them 
 on to Assouan, where they will find a small dahabeeli or cangia to 
 carry them as far as the second cataract : a detestable way of seeing 
 the wonders of the Nile. Certain days are always allowed for stoppages 
 at the various points of interest along each bank of the river. This 
 steamer, like all those belonging to the Viceroy, is painted entirely 
 white. Just as we were sitting down to dinner there was a sudden 
 cry of “ man overboard!” It was our dusky marmiton , who had been 
 caught unawares by a rope, as the sail was shifting, and tossed over the 
 ship’s side into the water. Happily there was no great harm done, 
 and the little incident was evidently regarded as an excellent joke, 
 even by the suffering party himself, who occupies the unenviable post 
 of buffoon for the whole crew. Before sunset the air was so very mild 
 and the sun so powerful, that we felt all the genial warmth of a July 
 day in England, without any of its oppressive sultriness. 
 
 To-day Beis Osman, although warned before we left Cairo, that 
 such tyrannical treatment would not be on any account allowed, 
 took occasion, for some trifling offence, to give one of his men a violent 
 blow, and then spat in his face. Fortunately, my husband was on 
 deck at the time, saw the affair from beginning to end, and remarked 
 the extreme terror of all the rest of our sailors. Paolo was quickly 
 summoned, and through his medium the Eeis was called to order, and 
 distinctly told that none of the men were to be beaten upon any pretext 
 whatever ; but that every case of misconduct worthy of severe punishment 
 must be decided fairly and justly on shore by the proper authorities. 
 
74 
 
 BENI-SOEF. 
 
 The sun had hardly sunk below the horizon, when we came opposite 
 an encampment of Bedouins on the western bank ; there were not many 
 people to be seen, but flags were waving over some of the tents, and 
 a fire was blazing in the distance. Immense corn-stacks stood ready 
 for removal, which at first we took for pieces of rock. Horses and 
 donkeys, herds of cows and buffaloes, came down the bank to water ; 
 and to vary tire scene, a stately camel now and then appeared, stalking 
 slowly and pompously along the higher ground. My husband found 
 amusement in occasionally shooting with the rifle at the numerous flocks 
 of wild geese and cranes by the river-side. Large villages are very 
 frequent hereabouts ; their well-chosen sites marked by beautiful groves 
 of trees, and having generally a sheikh’s tomb standing in their midst, 
 shaded by a venerable acacia or palm tree — literally, a “whited 
 sepulchre.” Again did lack of wind oblige our men to tow the boat, 
 for which they instantly prepared themselves with great good humour, 
 leaping unshod upon the sharp rocks ; but after awhile the sail was 
 spread once more. We anchored at midnight four miles from Beni-soef, 
 and by hard towing we arrived there this morning — Christmas Day 
 — at nine o’clock. Here we saw the same Government steamer that 
 passed us yesterday, and a travellers’ dahabeeh. Beni-soef is capital 
 of a province, or beylik , and thus presents to view an ordinary scene 
 of Egyptian life common to all large towns upon the Nile. Women 
 of all ages are seen, morning and evening, filling their great water- 
 jars or washing clothes. Buffaloes, horses and donkeys, are standing 
 or lying here and there along the shore ; boats of every size are 
 moored to the bank ; dogs are prowling lazily in all directions ; while 
 importunate beggars, clad in filthy rags, and naked squalling children 
 torment each newly arrived stranger with that odious word “Back- 
 sheesh.” Paolo went on shore at this place to buy some bread, 
 and a fresh supply of eggs, the rats having eaten all our store of the 
 latter. The thermometer in the saloon at breakfast-time stood so 
 
GEBEL E TAYR. 
 
 75 
 
 low as forty-nine degrees. Taking advantage of wind in our favour, 
 we were off — sail opened to the breeze — at half-past nine o’clock. 
 The dahabeeh rolled most unpleasantly, and the water rose in frothy 
 waves. 
 
 Our Christmas dinner consisted of soup, turkey, macaroni, stewed 
 beef, fried pumpkin, mashed potatoes, peach tartlets and roasted 
 apples. We did not forget to chink tire health of “ them that’s awa.” 
 The sailors have always three meals a day — breakfast at nine, dinner 
 at one, supper at sunset. The second Eeis, seated at the helm, has 
 his meals brought to him by the ship’s cook. Hitherto their food 
 has been every day the same, without the least variety — coarse 
 brown bread soaked in lentil-soup. They sit in a circle round a very 
 large wooden-bowl, and with the exception of one man, who happens 
 to possess a spoon*, they all eat with fingers only. Most of these 
 sailors come from the borders of Nubia, and are very dark com- 
 plexioned. Eeis Osman always feeds with Paolo and Salvo upon the 
 remains of our own meals. Two men were seen to-day floating 
 rapidly down the river upon a mere raft of reeds, which they guided 
 very cleverly. After sunset we came to a more difficult part of our 
 course, and were aground for a short time. Darkness comes on very 
 suddenly here, and the nights are quite cold enough to make warm 
 coverings essentially necessary to one’s comfort. Anchored at eleven p.m. 
 near a village on the left bank, not far from Aboo-Girgeh. 
 
 Wednesday , December 2 6th. — Started at seven o’clock, with a fair 
 wind, but the vessel rolling most disagreeably. Soon after eight, we 
 were passing Gebel e’ Tayr, on the summit of which stands the 
 convent of “ Sitteh Mariam-el-Adra ” — Our Lady Mary the Virgin. 
 It is inhabited by Coptic monks, who watch eagerly for European 
 travellers, and descending the precipitous cliff, swim off in haste 
 
 * Two of this man’s fingers had been cut off that fie might escape the conscription. 
 
76 
 
 MINIEII. 
 
 to meet the coming strangers with loud and impetuous cries of “ Ana 
 Christian ya Ilowagee ! ” Paolo found some difficulty, on the present 
 occasion, to prevent their coming on board our boat, even when, 
 for charity’s sake, a few small coins were given them. These 
 wretched monks are, indeed, miserably poor, and depend chiefly 
 upon begging for their daily subsistence. 
 
 One very decided advantage attending this Nile voyage, is the 
 extreme comfort of having all our clothes washed regularly once a 
 week by our own people. Paolo undertakes the ironing part of 
 this duty, while the washing is done by our cook and his marmiton , 
 Paolo and Salvo together folding up the linen, or spreading it on 
 lines to dry. About every second day our bread is baked, and 
 very good when not too hard and dry. We reached Minieh at 
 eleven a. m., and remained at anchor for half an hour, to enable our 
 Peis to make a few purchases for himself and some of the crew. 
 Minieh is a neatly-built and picturesque little town, and once 
 enjoyed considerable importance from the commercial enterprise of 
 its inhabitants. A sheikh’s tomb, overshadowed by a sycamore 
 tree, and a silk and cotton factory, established by the late 
 Mohammed Ali Pasha, form the most prominent objects in view 
 from the river. Euins of a very ancient town may be seen on a 
 projection of the mountain opposite Minieh, not far from whence is 
 the modern cemetery. According to Diodorus, it was the old 
 Egyptian custom of ferrying over their dead, that probably gave 
 rise to the mythological fable of Charon and the Styx, and to which 
 the funeral ceremonies of modern times bear some very striking 
 analogies. The catacombs of Kom-Ahmar, said to contain curious 
 remains of sculpture and hieroglyphics, are also on the right bank 
 of the Nile ; and at Soadee, the Pasha has a rum distillery ; while 
 large plantations of sugar-cane extend far and wide over the rich 
 arable land on the same side of the river. Towards noon the 
 
SHEIKII ABADEII. 
 
 77 
 
 wind fell a little, and although the motion of our vessel was much 
 more agreeable, we did not advance so rapidly as in the early part 
 of the day. From these continual delays, our men begin to fear 
 their stock of bread running short, as they cannot procure any more 
 until we arrive at Siout. The Nile water is, beyond all comparison, 
 pure and sweet when filtered, and justly merits an oft-repeated 
 Egyptian adage, that “ it comes direct from heaven.” Fish are not 
 abundant, nor are they generally esteemed either well-flavoured or 
 wholesome. At two p. m., we passed the caves of Beni-Hassan, 
 and at half-past four, came to Sheikh Abadeh — the Roman city 
 Antinoe — both on the eastern bank. A number of men were 
 employed in ruthlessly removing hewn stones from the ancient 
 amphitheatre, and putting them one by one into a large boat, for 
 conveyance across the Nile, to Roda. A noble sycamore tree, to 
 which the “ Clothilde ” was moored when we landed at this interesting 
 spot in October 1853, is still conspicuous on the shore. At Roda, 
 Ismail Bey has an immense sugar factory, entirely constructed from 
 the Roman ruins at Sheikh Abadeh. This building, not yet 
 
 finished, but already in full operation, faces the river, and forms 
 three sides of a square. There are seven chimneys, and the roof 
 is covered with corrugated iron. Fields of sugar-cane extend to a 
 great distance in all directions, and a little to the south are water- 
 works, for the purpose of irrigating some of these valuable 
 plantations. It is, in truth, no small addition to our pleasure on 
 the Nile, to see so many flights each day of our old friends the 
 swallows, who have lately — like ourselves — quitted most gladly 
 for a while, their own cold northern homes, in search of warmer 
 latitudes and brighter skies. Pretty creatures ! We almost long to 
 talk to them, although in tones far less melodious than their own 
 sweet, happy, chirping notes of praise. 
 
 Most of our crew are very punctual in their prayers and pro- 
 
78 
 
 GEBEL SUEIKII ABOOFAYDEE. 
 
 strations towards Mecca, and the sailors of the “ Clothilde ” were 
 equally regular in their religious duties. Eeis Osman is a splendid 
 figure when thus occupied, his carpet spread on deck, and his fine 
 expressive countenance lighted up with all the fervour of deep and 
 earnest devotion. One calls to mind the good Cornelius, whose 
 
 prayers were heard by Him who looketh on the heart ; and who ever 
 judgeth “ according to what a man hath, and not according to 
 what he hath not.” 
 
 As we were passing Gebel Sheikh Hassaid, the Eeis hastily took 
 up a small piece of bread, and threw it into the river. There is a 
 Moslem tradition, that white gulls, so numerous on the Nile, are 
 sufficiently devout to carry this humble offering — which no “ faith- 
 ful ” wayfarer dare ever omit to bestow — at once to the mountain 
 top, and leave it there upon Sheikh Hassaid’s tomb. The moon 
 shines brightly this evening, and the ah’ feels warm and genial. 
 
 Thursday , December 27th . — Aground during the early part of last 
 night, and anchored at a village on the west bank at half-past twelve 
 o’clock ; while a dense fog, somewhat unusual on the Nile, delayed 
 our starting again until after seven this morning. The wind blew 
 quite in our favour, but there was not much of it. We have now 
 advanced so far into Upper Egypt that it is high time to look out 
 for a stray crocodile. The general scenery also changes a little, for 
 the banks on either side are steeper and less monotonous, and many 
 of the rocks are formed in such regular horizontal strata as to present 
 the appearance of ruined towns and fortifications. The fog gradually 
 dispersed, as the sun rose higher and higher in the heavens ; and 
 towards noon we reached a very narrow part of the Nile, where 
 the banks are scarcely more than two hundred yards asunder. Here, 
 on the eastern side, is Gebel Sheikh Aboofaydee, so called from the 
 saint whose whitewashed sepulchre stands facing the river, half way 
 up its almost perpendicular cliffs. At some distance to the south of 
 
MAN FA LOUT. 
 
 79 
 
 this tomb, and distinctly seen from the water, is a wretched Coptic 
 convent, chiefly built of mud, where service is performed at stated 
 periods, although nobody permanently resides there. In this neigh- 
 bourhood are large quarries ; excavated tombs ; lofty and curiously- 
 stratified rocks, with boldly-marked outlines ; jutting headlands ; and 
 natural caverns, in olden time the safe abodes of grim ascetics, and 
 where good St. Athanasius also is said to have once sought timely 
 shelter. The Dom — or Theban — palm, with fan-shaped leaves, 
 may now frequently be seen. This tree is never found in Lower 
 Egypt, except in gardens, but is peculiar to the Thebaid, whence 
 its usual name. The fruit grows in clusters at the base of each 
 leaf, is in size like a common apple, of a brownish yellow colour, 
 and contains an extremely hard white nut or kernel, from which 
 beads and other carved ornaments are frequently made. Soon after 
 two p.m., we passed Manfalout, and remarked the increased wearing 
 away of the land at this point, within the last few years. Li the 
 opposite mountains are to be found the celebrated crocodile mummy- 
 cases ; but it is considered both difficult and dangerous to explore 
 them. We are fully sensible of a gradual advance within more 
 southern latitudes, although each day, as the sun sinks grandly below 
 the western horizon, the atmosphere becomes chilly, and our sailors 
 prepare for this sudden change of temperature by wrapping their 
 warm thick cloaks tightly round them, from head to foot. Just after 
 sunset, we came to a narrow part of the river, where the stream is 
 divided by mud banks, of different shapes and sizes, like a group 
 of uninhabited islands. The charming effect of this scene was doubly 
 enhanced by the indescribably rich and softly mellowed tints of a 
 glorious after-glow on one side ; and a splendid moon, shining nearly 
 at the full on the other, was brilliantly reflected in the now calm 
 bosom of the majestic Nile — bright and clear as in the smooth and 
 even surface of a beautifully-polished mirror. There is considerable 
 
80 
 
 EL HAMRA. 
 
 delay between Manfalout and Siout, owing to several curves and 
 windings in the stream. We grounded continually, but were almost 
 always soon afloat again, and anchored close by the west bank at 
 half-past eleven. 
 
 Friday , December 28 th . — About nine this morning we passed the 
 upward-bound dahabeeh of two English gentlemen ; and at half-past 
 twelve a bend of the river gave us an extremely pretty view of the 
 town of Siout, whose busy port, El Hamra, we reached exactly at 
 half-past three. It was most amusing to observe the extreme haste 
 and eagerness of all our crew to have their heads shaved. The 
 “village barber” — newsy and loquacious as still are others of his 
 craft in every land, or as we find them in “Arabian Nights,” — per- 
 formed his welcome functions by the river-side, adroitly leaving on 
 each dusky pate one single lock of coal-black hair, thus to secure 
 its “ faithful ” owner’s certain flight to heaven ! A large palace of 
 the Viceroy, which was only in process of building when we were 
 last here, has been long completed ; but it is not a favourite residence, 
 and is now-a-days seldom inhabited. A very ugly dog keeps constant 
 guard before the gate — the only living thing visible when we walked 
 by, late this evening, towards Said Pasha’s gardens. I gathered, for 
 the first time, a few leaves of castor-oil plant, a small field of which 
 lay quite close to our path. Just within the garden entrance stands an 
 insignificant whitewashed kiosk, designed in miserable taste, and dis- 
 figured, moreover, by a paltry pigeon-house, tawdrily painted red 
 and white. This building, and the garden itself, are alike ill-kept 
 and unattractive, for whatever courtly beauty they may once, perhaps, 
 have boasted, has now entirely passed away. The walks are unswept 
 and dirty, the fruit-trees unpruned, the borders and shrubs running 
 wild and neglected. We were amazed at the extraordinary number 
 of enormous pumpkins lying close together upon the ground, to dry 
 for food. The large trees are chiefly palms, and there are but 
 
EL-HAMRA. 
 
 81 
 
 few orange or lemon-trees. The sweet white jasmine shed a most 
 delicious fragrance all around ; and, except some dark pink rhodo- 
 dendron, was the only flower we could find. The balsam of our 
 English greenhouses was planted as a bordering to some of the 
 smaller beds. Banias (a sort of bean) and plantains were also culti- 
 vated here. On our return to “ La Gazelle,” we passed a cargo-boat, 
 loaded with Manchester goods, for sale at all the different ports from 
 Boulac to Assouan. El-Hamra has, of late years, increased both in 
 size and importance. This thriving little place is now supplied with 
 a bazaar and several coffee-houses, in addition to the nominal dignity 
 of a viceregal palace. A detachment of irregular soldiers is stationed 
 here, as well as at Siout, — and, indeed, at every other town of the 
 least consequence in Upper Egypt. Our crew rejoice greatly in the 
 prospect of twenty-four hours’ much needed relaxation, and will have 
 ample time to lay in at Siout a fresh store of bread for the voyage. 
 They have had very hard work hitherto, with but short intervals of 
 rest. For instance, last night the dahabeeh was aground for some 
 hours ; and the united efforts of our Beis and his sailors to set her 
 afloat again were utterly unavailing, though long continued and often 
 renewed. At length, the poor men became far too much exhausted 
 to labour any more ; and Beis Osman declared he had no other alter- 
 native than to wait till morning, and then send betimes for a hundred 
 of the country people, to dig the vessel out of the mud, and lift 
 her, by main force, off the sloping bank into deeper water. But 
 strange to say, before the daylight dawned, “ La Gazelle ” had com- 
 pletely extricated herself from this awkward dilemma — while all on 
 board were fast asleep ; and we were therefore happily relieved from 
 a serious difficulty in a truly unexpected manner. The thermometer 
 in our saloon stood at 64 degrees Fahrenheit at two p.m. to-day, and 
 at 69 degrees at six p.m. 
 
 The following is the amount of wages paid to the Beis and crew 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 SIOUT. 
 
 of “ La Gazelle : ” — Reis Osman receives all the year round at the rate 
 of two hundred and twenty piastres per month, — £1 10s. The second 
 Reis, — steersman, — £1 per month. Each sailor has 15s. per month, 
 and the cook-boy 7s. 6 d. Except the Reis, these men are only paid 
 w T hen actually employed ; the remainder of the year they earn their 
 livelihood by conveying merchandise to and fro between Cairo and 
 Alexandria. Our crew provide their own food and bedding. 
 
 Saturday , December 2 9th. — A guard of janissaries are now 
 stationed before the Viceroy’s palace ; one of the Swedish princes 
 having taken up his temporary abode there, arriving late last night 
 in a government steamer. On board our own boat, the greater part 
 of this day has been spent in repairing sundry damages caused by 
 continual grounding. For ourselves, we hired fleet little donkeys and 
 rode to Siout, a distance of perhaps two English miles. The road is 
 bordered by fine specimens of “ Pharaoh’s fig-tree,” with here and 
 there a fight and feathery tamarisk. Some fishermen were dragging 
 their net in a large piece of water left by the inundation ; and while 
 thus occupied, an eagle or vulture suddenly alighted near them for 
 a moment to slake his thirst, and then flew far away. Just within 
 the gate of Siout is a court of justice, and immediately opposite stands 
 a public printing-press, and also the building where corporal punish- 
 ment is usually inflicted. Asking to see the prison, we were at once 
 taken to the old one, now no longer used ; but we wished to visit 
 the modern jail of Siout, that we might ascertain for ourselves 
 whether any of those improvements, which we had been assured were 
 now effected in prison discipline, had really taken place or not. I 
 have since heard that we did not see the “ inner prison,” where the 
 worst criminals are kept, “ their feet fast in the stocks.” For the 
 rest, I can say with truth, that the principal ameliorations consisted, 
 first, in the decidedly smaller number of prisoners confined here ; 
 secondly, that they — at least those we saw to-day — are no longer 
 
SIOUT. 
 
 83 
 
 chained in rows with wooden yokes round their necks, nor are their 
 hands manacled ; but their legs are still cruelly bound with chain 
 fetters ; and, above all, it was painful to notice that most of these 
 unfortunate men looked perfectly unconcerned, and seemed quite 
 indifferent to their fate. They are not well fed, we are told, even 
 according to the common Arab habits of feeding ; but as the stench 
 and foul air were not so intolerable as when we walked through the 
 prison of Siout seven years ago, there must now be a greater attention 
 to cleanliness, even allowing for the difference in temperature between a 
 hot Egyptian October and the present cool month of December. Within 
 the precincts of the jail about a dozen persons were seated on the 
 ground, carefully counting out various sums of money, wrung from 
 the earnings of the unhappy fellahin , which is deposited in chests 
 and transmitted to Cairo. The outer court of this building, open 
 to the street, is defended merely by a slight wooden palisade ; and 
 a strong guard of soldiers with loaded firearms is always stationed 
 here, under strict orders to shoot dead the first prisoner who dares 
 to put even one hand upon or through the railings. The bazaars 
 are solidly built of stone, and in point of construction are very 
 superior to those at Cairo. They are, indeed, admirably adapted to 
 exclude the fierce rays of an Egyptian sun, being roofed over, and 
 admitting no more light than is absolutely necessary. We purchased 
 some pieces of the famous pottery made at /veneh, and prettily carved — 
 as we saw — at Siout. Scarlet leather is also to be found particularly 
 good here, and we vainly tried to conclude a bargain for a pair of 
 small cymbals, to please our merry-hearted crew, and complete their 
 little band. We saw several people pounding coffee in an immense 
 iron mortar, with huge iron pestles. This labour must be tremendously 
 fatiguing, and no wonder these coffee-pounders are comparatively 
 short-lived. Siout — the old Lycopolis, “ City of Wolves ” — having 
 long ago succeeded Girgeh as the capital of Upper Egypt, bears greater 
 
 G 2 
 
84 
 
 EL-HAMRA. 
 
 evidence of active life and busy occupation within and around the 
 city, than one generally finds in an Egyptian town, even of the larger 
 sort. The walls are substantially built of burnt brick, and the 
 numerous trees and gardens in its vicinity, with the lofty cave-pierced 
 promontory of the Libyan chain jutting out boldly to the southward, 
 impart, from sunrise to sunset, a certain air of dignity and extreme 
 interest to this most lovely picture — an exquisitely beautiful reality 
 seldom surpassed, and which no perfection of art can ever satisfactorily 
 portray. The sun was very powerful towards noon, but a balmy and 
 refreshing breeze gently tempered the heat ; while we felt more 
 convinced than on any previous occasion, how far superior is the 
 delightful climate of Upper Egypt to that of the lower provinces. 
 There is a life-giving buoyancy of atmosphere pervading the higher 
 portion of the Kile valley, which can never be experienced in the 
 same degree at Cairo, nor is the dust nearly so overwhelming and 
 
 disagreeable. On our return through El-Hamra, we saw two or three 
 
 • 
 
 poor sick people lying almost unsheltered by the way-side, as if brought 
 there only to die ; or more probably, to excite compassion and obtain 
 pecuniary relief. Six or seven travellers’ boats — European and 
 American — lay moored to the bank, each waving a national flag or 
 some other distinctive signal, and with gaily-coloured pennons streaming 
 from the extreme end of their long yards. And now, wonderful to 
 relate ! — so seldom can anything even like punctuality be expected where 
 Orientals are concerned — we managed to collect and sail away from 
 the bustling little port of Siout at twenty minutes past three p.m., just 
 ten minutes before the stipulated time of departure ; the crew looking 
 so exceedingly nice and spruce in their clean white turbans, that we 
 felt more than usually proud of our fair “ Gazelle ; ” and conceitedly 
 fancied she must needs be envied and admired by all who saw her 
 then, and everywhere. The wind fell gradually as day declined, and 
 at nightfall sank altogether into a dead calm. Our sailors were in 
 
TIIE NILE. 
 
 85 
 
 excellent spirits; singing and joking, while they thoroughly enjoyed the 
 twofold indulgence of newly-baked bread, and also of some good fresh 
 buffalo beef, which we added to their ordinary supper of lentil-soup. 
 Their brown bread is not to be despised when warm from the oven, but 
 very soon becomes tough and sour. The dahabeeh has undergone a 
 complete cleansing and overhauling to-day, and we have resumed our 
 pleasant voyage with proportionate comfort and luxury. We remarked, 
 while daylight lasted, that east and west, the banks became more 
 thickly wooded, and large, well populated villages appeared more 
 frequently than before. At ten p.m. we anchored at a village on the 
 eastern side, opposite Abooteeg, which stands upon the site of an 
 ancient town, and in whose vicinity the poppy-plant has for many 
 centuries been cultivated, although in former times much more exten- 
 sively than it is at present. This night is very cold, but as the canvas 
 curtain descends low enough to cover all the windows of our cabin, we 
 feel less chilly than one would otherwise imagine. 
 
 Sunday , December 30 th. — We awoke this morning to a hazy 
 atmosphere and a dead calm. Our crew preferred breakfasting upon 
 the green bank, where they had at least a wider space for rest than 
 on the deck of the dahabeeh. The buffalo beef we gave the sailors 
 yesterday, has pleased them very much. It only cost about nine 
 shillings, and, by a little careful management, may last until to- 
 morrow evening for their three daily meals. About noon we passed 
 the large village of Nehalee, on the western bank, and where nearly 
 all the inhabitants are Copts. A solitary pelican, of dazzling white 
 plumage, floated majestically down the stream, as though steadily 
 bent upon some important errand, from which he would not suffer 
 himself to be easily turned away. After dinner we had a pleasant 
 hour’s walk on shore. The air was very warm, but without the 
 slightest sultry feeling of oppression. Fresh crops of wheat, now 
 beautifully green, are growing fast, and have quickly succeeded 
 
 G 3 
 
86 
 
 GEBEL SIIEIKII IIEREEDEE. 
 
 the recently gathered harvest of Indian corn — the tall stalks of the 
 latter serving famously as walking-sticks, sufficiently formidable to 
 terrify the wild dogs — that inevitable nuisance of Egypt, whenever 
 one goes near any town or village. Sugar plantations were also very 
 abundant, and seemed quite ready for pulling. The sugar-canes 
 are always torn up by the roots, and thus sent off to Cairo and 
 other places on the Nile. We met several of the Coptic peasantry, 
 who may generally be known from the rest of the Egyptian 
 fellahin , by their peculiar shaped cap of white felt, exactly like an 
 inverted flower-pot. Anchored this most lovely evening at five p. m., 
 near a village on the right bank. 
 
 Monday , December 31-si. — Rather hazy just at sunrise, but the 
 light fog cleared away, and we were able to start by half-past six 
 o’clock, with a very favourable wind. We soon passed over the 
 site of an ancient large town, Gow-el-Gharbeeh, the river having 
 here altered its course, and swerved for a few miles from its former 
 channel. At half-past eleven we were in front of Gebel Sheikh 
 Hereedee, well known from a superstitious belief regarding some 
 wonderful serpent, possessed of miraculous power to cure every kind 
 of disease. Sir Gardner Wilkinson wisely suggests that this strange 
 legend perhaps owes its origin to the Asp — the old Egyptian 
 symbol of Kneph, or the Good Genius. The sides of Gebel Sheikh 
 Hereedee are even more precipitous than those of Gebel Aboofay- 
 dee ; they are perforated with caverns, and whitened all over with 
 guano, from the immense number of wild birds who nightly make 
 these mountain steeps their resting-place. A pathway runs — about 
 a quarter of the way up — nearly straight across its almost per- 
 pendicular cliffs ; and along this apparently dangerous route, men 
 and camels, buffaloes and donkeys, were fearlessly walking from 
 end to end. At two p. m., we passed Gow — or /Cow — the ancient 
 Antoepolis, on the east bank. Ruins of a temple of Antoeus are 
 
SOOKAG. 
 
 87 
 
 now reduced to a confused mass of stones and one small fragment 
 of the last remaining column, close to the water’s-edge. At 
 four p. m., we passed Sookag, on the west bank. Here is a wide 
 canal, the entrance well constructed of solid masonry, which car- 
 ries a large supply of water for some distance into the interior 
 during the inundation of the Nile. Sookag has lately risen in im- 
 portance, by taking the place of Girgeh, as capital of a province ; 
 the provincial divan , and the Governor’s residence, being now per- 
 manently removed there. At this part of our course the river 
 makes a considerable bend to the north-east. Anchored by a village 
 on the right bank, at six p.m. The Eeis complains of a distracting 
 headache, and therefore one of our Arab sailors — doubtless with 
 kindest thoughts intent — promptly removing his master’s tarboosh 
 and turban, has at once begun to bite the sun-dried skin of poor 
 Eeis Osman’s brow ! This violent means of cure, will in a very 
 short time, it is hoped, effectually remove all present pain. Another 
 Arab mode of curing headaches is to take a piece of copper 
 money, make it burning hot at the fire, and lay it for a few minutes 
 on the crown of the head ; sometimes a bit of live charcoal is 
 substituted for this ten or twenty-para coin ! Paolo tells us of an 
 English travellers’ boat, this evening come to anchor like our own 
 — a father and mother, with their dying son. Since — full of hope — 
 they all left Cairo two short months ago, these devoted parents 
 have already lost one child by consumption ; but still they journey 
 onwards, and will leave no human means untried to save that 
 other life, so doubly precious now. It is a melancholy history in 
 itself ; without additional care and trouble at such a time of sorrow, 
 from the gross misconduct of then’ servants and sailors, upon whom 
 so very much of their employers’ comforts necessarily depends. 
 
 New Years Day , 1861. — A dead calm, and our men towing hard, 
 as we left our moorings at seven a.m. ; but an unexpected shower 
 
 G 4 
 
88 
 
 MENSHEEH. 
 
 of rain soon gave them a quarter of an hour’s respite, and then 
 they cheerfully set to work again. However, the wind got up afresh 
 about half-past eleven, just as we were preparing to take a stroll 
 on shore ; so our intended pleasant walk was at once given up, and 
 the sails speedily unfurled. We reached Mensheeh at a quarter before 
 one o’clock, but did not land, although it would have been agreeable 
 to escape the countless myriads of flies that tormented us to-day. On 
 the east side of the town are vestiges of a stone quay, and extensive 
 mounds abundantly prove that a place of great importance formerly 
 existed here. Beyond Mensheeh are high limestone cliffs, perforated 
 with natural and excavated caverns, and descending more abruptly 
 to the water’s-edge than any we have yet passed upon the Nile ; 
 while again we were most fortunate in escaping those violent and 
 sudden gusts of wind, which not unfrequently render this part of 
 the voyage extremely unsafe. Further on, until we arrived at Girgeh, 
 were beautiful groves of trees, villages, and corn-fields. We find it 
 advisable personally to encourage the sailors in playing and singing, 
 since Paolo professes an utter contempt for all music except the 
 Italian opera, and would fain persuade our men that we are quite 
 of his opinion. But, tout au contraire , we like these unstudied and 
 not inharmonious tones excessively ; and very well know what a sad 
 privation it must be, when these poor Arabs are unkindly forbidden 
 their favourite amusement — not only innocent and harmless in itself, 
 but an unfailing source of cheerfulness and good humour when their 
 daily toil is done. We have readily given them full permission to 
 play and sing whenever they like ; adding that the oftener we hear 
 their merry songs, the more certain we shall feel that they are really 
 pleased and happy. Paolo says, moreover, that Mr. Stephens gave 
 him a great deal of trouble, during their desert journey, by asking 
 innumerable questions relating to Bedouin customs, religion, and laws ; 
 thus endeavouring to collect every kind of information about the 
 
GIKGEIl. 
 
 89 
 
 peninsula of Sinai and its nomade inhabitants, so faithfully recorded 
 in his “Incidents of Travel” — that useful guide to many a wanderer 
 in these Eastern lands. “ He would not let me smoke one pipe 
 quiet!!” — and this, I imagine, was the grand climax of all the 
 complaining dragoman’s grievances. 
 
 At half-past four p.m., we passed Girgeh, once the capital of Upper 
 Egypt ; but now fast falling into ruins, as its seven tottering minarets 
 sufficiently testify. Still, even in extreme decay, I must here repeat 
 that “ Girgeh is a pretty little town, as seen from the river.” Its 
 name is of Coptic origin, being derived from Girgis or George , the 
 patron saint of Egyptian Christians. Sir Gardner Wilkinson remarks 
 that “when visited by Norden and Pococke, Girgeh was a quarter 
 of a mile from the river ; but it is now on the bank, and part of 
 it has already been washed away by the stream.” This is perfectly 
 true ; and the same learned author very justly adds : “ This is one 
 of the many proofs of the great changes that have taken place in 
 the course of the Nile, within a few years, and fully accounts for 
 certain towns, now on the river, being laid down by ancient 
 geographers in an inland position.” We had the unusual occurrence 
 of a little rain this afternoon, as well as a rather cloudy sky, and 
 a very faintly-traced rainbow. On the east bank, nearly opposite 
 Girgeh, are some large fields of the castor-oil and cotton plants. 
 We sailed quite close along this eastern side, the sun-baked earth 
 rising abruptly from the water, like well packed masses of hard 
 rock ; forming layers and platforms, seemingly, of solid stone, here 
 and there white with natron, plentifully spread hi patches over them. 
 At sunset, the long range of eastern mountains — at no great dis- 
 tance — was exquisitely tinged with the richest golden hues imaginable, 
 and afforded every possible variety of beautiful purple, lilac, and 
 orange colour. We anchored at seven p.m., almost in mid stream, the 
 inhabitants of this locality not being considered quite worthy of confi- 
 
90 
 
 BELLIANEH. 
 
 dence ; indeed it was judged expedient that we should retire to rest with 
 loaded firearms by our side, in readiness for any sudden emergency ; 
 but from which suspected danger we were now — as ever — mercifully 
 spared. Our real enemies, the rats, held noisy carnival in our sleeping 
 cabin all through the night, but we felt too much tired to give them 
 battle. The traps are always set in vain, and we have neither cat nor 
 dog on board. 
 
 Wednesday , January 2nd . — A dead calm, and very slow progress. 
 We started at half past six a.m., just after a slight shower of rain, our 
 men laboriously towing. About noon, Paolo found a good opportunity 
 of replenishing liis larder at Bellianeh, which place has doubtless 
 succeeded to some very ancient town, as the numerous mounds and heaps 
 of rubbish still sufficiently testify. It occupies a rather high position, on 
 the western side of the river, and is surrounded by palm groves. On 
 the opposite bank once stood the city of Lepidotum , — so called, it 
 is said, from old Egyptian worship of the fish Lepidotus. Bellianeh 
 presented a gay and lively scene to-day, as a weekly fair or market was 
 going on there, and the little town seemed busily astir with men, women 
 and children ; everybody screaming and vociferating, but all with 
 apparent satisfaction, and in perfect good humour. The weather was 
 delightfully warm and pleasant, and Paolo has made our Arab crew 
 quite happy — at a trifling cost of three piastres, or sevenpence half- 
 penny — by giving each sailor five large joints of sugar cane. Several 
 cargo boats, laden with reeds, probably for the roofs of houses, are 
 moving slowly up the river. Towards dusk we came to anchor near a 
 village; and although the moon had not yet risen, and we could scarcely 
 see where to put our feet, we scrambled up steep ledges of soft earth, 
 and walked on firmer ground for half an hour. Bright stars, reflected 
 in the clear smooth stream, peeped out above us, one by one, and the 
 air was mild and pure even for the upper Nile Valley. Paolo in due 
 time summoned the village guard ; and we then returned “home” to 
 
TIIE NILE. 
 
 91 
 
 tea. Reis Osman — ever attentive to his duties — will not go to rest, 
 unless perfectly satisfied with regard to the safety of our neighbour- 
 hood, but remains all night at the vessel’s bow, wrapped in his warm 
 cloth cloak. In general, he sleeps on the centre part of the deck, 
 near the kitchen. Paolo is very prudent and watchful also, never going 
 to bed until he sees everything made properly secure ; and last night, 
 when our own tired sailors mounted guard, he frequently roused up 
 those who slept by throwing bowls of water in their faces. 
 
 Thursday , January 3rd . — We were off at half past six this beauti- 
 fully bright morning. At seven, my husband took his rifle, went on 
 shore with Paolo, and shot pigeons in abundance. He also fired at two 
 large wolves, and wounded one of them, who at once rolled over on his 
 back, but unfortunately they both contrived to escape capture. We 
 walked upon the west bank for at least an hour, late in the day. The 
 Shadoof was busily at work in some places, and many more were stand- 
 ing idle. This is a most primitive mode of raising water, and must be 
 very fatiguing to those who daily labour at it. Two stout wooden posts 
 are firmly fixed in the earth, united at the top by a cross beam, on which 
 moves a long lever, with a leathern bucket attached to one end and a 
 heavy weight to the other. This counterpoise invariably consists of a 
 huge lump of mud, bound up with reeds. A deep trench, cut from the 
 river, receives the bucket when let down from above. It is drawn up 
 full of water, and emptied into a second trench, dug upon a higher level, 
 from whence canals branch off to irrigate the thirsty crops. Sometimes 
 the banks are so steep that three or four of these shadoofs are necessary, 
 placed at intervals of a few feet one above the other, each with its own 
 reservoir to supply the upper level. One man is deemed sufficient to 
 work a single shadoof ; but, of course the number is always doubled or 
 trebled, according to the labour required. The workmen are generally 
 relieved every two or three hours, and they accompany their toil by a 
 peculiarly mournful dirge- hke chaunt, that may be known from a great 
 
92 
 
 FAllSIIOOT. 
 
 distance. The Egyptian water-wheel — saMyeh — mainly consists in a 
 large vertical wheel, raised upon a platform, and turned by a pair of 
 oxen or buffaloes, behind which — on the splinter bar— a boy is always 
 seated, to goad them round and round. One learns at last to like the 
 creaking of these rude machines, so often heard both day and night. 
 Eliot Warburton says that the late Mohammed Ali Pacha was fully alive 
 to the utility of the saMyeh as an effectual means of irrigation, and 
 supplied buffaloes to work them, although at the same time he imposed 
 a heavy tax upon each wheel of twenty dollars yearly. The water is 
 slowly raised in earthen jars, attached to the saMyeh by very strong 
 cords. Magnificent groves of the tall feathery palms — interspersed with 
 noble specimens of the Dom, or Theban, variety of that ever splendid 
 and graceful tree — and large, wide spreading, leafy acacias, afforded 
 us a truly welcome shade from the still fierce sunbeams ; giving a rural 
 interest to the scenery, and a keen sense of pleasure to this afternoon’s 
 ramble, which no words can perfectly describe. The principal 
 cultivation of the fellahin in this neighbourhood is in different kinds 
 of corn, tobacco, beans, and sugar-cane. We anchored at a village 
 on the left bank, about half-past five p.m., with the chimneys of the 
 sugar factories at Farshoot in view not far distant. We have hardly 
 advanced ten miles to-day, so slight has been the wind. 
 
 Friday , January 4 th . — A most lovely fresh morning dawned upon 
 us, but with still a dead calm, and the sailors towing. At half-past seven 
 we passed Farshoot, formerly a town of greater size and consequence 
 than it is at present; although its inhabitants continue to pride themselves 
 upon their ancestors — a once powerful and warlike race of Arabs — 
 the Howara — famous for their success in training horses, and also for 
 a celebrated breed of large black wiry-haired dogs. Sir Gardner 
 Wilkinson remarks that these people have not “ the same prejudice 
 against dogs as in Lower Egypt, and indeed the inhabitants of the Saeed 
 have generally much fewer scruples on this point than other Moslems, 
 
THE NILE. 
 
 93 
 
 being mostly of the sect of Mdlekee, who view the dog with more 
 indulgent feelings.” Soon after ten o’clock we reached How on the 
 west bank, where are the ruins of Diospolis Parva ; and here the river 
 changes its course, taking a long curve to the south-west. My husband 
 went on shore to have some shooting ; and we were very much amused 
 by seeing, for the first time, four immense rafts of ifeneh pottery, the 
 owners seated high upon closely-packed water-jars of all conceivable 
 shapes and sizes, and plying dexterously their roughly made oars of 
 plaited acacia and tamarisk branches. They never venture down the 
 stream by night, nor even by day when there is a very strong wind. 
 Sometimes whole families may be seen thus going down the Nile to 
 Cairo, perched fearlessly aloft ; and when the lowest tier of porous 
 earthen pots becomes quite filled with water, the evil is always remedied 
 by a piece of cloth at the end of a long pole, which acting like a sponge, 
 soon puts the fragile ship to rights again. While passing Farshoot we 
 had noticed heaps upon heaps of /Ceneh water-pots — goollahs — piled 
 in rows along the bank, ready for removal to other parts of the country. 
 Near How, a vast number of workmen are now employed in making a 
 wide canal ; or more probably, in deepening and enlarging an old one. 
 By and by came Paolo, in eager haste, directing our attention towards 
 a well-known individual, called Saint, or Santon, Selim ; and through a 
 telescope I then distinctly saw a man of wild and strange appearance, 
 with tangled hair — the very picture of neglect and hopeless frenzy — 
 sitting cross-legged upon the ground, bereft of any shade or covering ; 
 and surrounded by a host of devotees, who all approached this wretched 
 maniac with the utmost reverence, and kissed his furrowed cheek. 
 Paolo positively asserts that, to his own knowledge, this unhappy 
 creature has been rooted to this very spot for thirty years ; but it is 
 incredible that human life can possibly endure so long — and in 
 Egypt — constant exposure day and night, summer and winter, with- 
 out the friendly shelter of a tree, or no less welcome “shadow of a 
 
94 
 
 GEBEE-EL-SAYR. 
 
 rock,” in this most “ weary land ” of burning heat and cloudless skies. 
 Food is brought to him in plenty by his deluded followers, who 
 superstitiously regard this afflicted being as divinely favoured, and 
 beneath the ever-watchful eye of an Almighty God. 
 
 Near Gebel-el-Sayr, on the eastern side of the river — and which 
 displays a beautiful variety of outline — the late Ibrahim Pacha made a 
 great alteration for the better, by turning the course of the Nile into 
 another channel ; and by this judicious forethought he effectually pre- 
 vented a valuable tract of the richest land on the east bank from being 
 cut away by the stream. We met a small party of English travellers 
 returning slowly towards Cairo. Right wearily had days and weeks 
 passed by, until at last they came within a few days’ sail of Wady Halfeh, 
 near the second Cataract. — They could do no more ! 
 
 This afternoon, upon the west bank, a man was carefully measuring 
 a fadddn, or square English acre, of ground. He held in his hand a 
 very long stick, a square of one hundred lengths of which makes the 
 fadddn exactly. A patient little donkey stood quietly near, in waiting, 
 till his master’s busy task had ended. The ground was so rugged and 
 full of holes we could not walk along with any comfort. Young crops 
 of various kinds, beautifully green and of rich promise, were fast 
 springing up from the fertile soil ; while innumerable embankments 
 and narrow channels crossed our path at almost every step. The river 
 winds here more than usual, and the banks on either side teem with 
 villages, and present at least the outward appearance of prosperity. A 
 slight breeze filled our sails for a very short time, and gave the men a 
 good hour’s respite from continual labour. We anchored at half-past 
 seven, but before midnight the Reis took due advantage of a slight wind 
 to spread the sails and move the vessel onwards. It was scarcely worth 
 the effort — for only half an hour, and all was calm again. The common 
 names of our Egyptian crew sound strangely melodious in our northern 
 ears; for how can one compare “Abdallah,” “Mohammed,” “Abdou,” 
 
TIIE NILE. 
 
 95 
 
 “Ramadan,” “Osman,” or “Ali,” with “Jack,” “Tom,” “Dick,” and 
 “ Billy” of good old England ! But “British tars” have their noble deeds 
 to show, and would not pride themselves upon fine highflown words. 
 
 Saturday , January 5th. — A large dahabeeh passed us early in the 
 day, towed by a government steamer, conveying a Royal Prince of 
 Sweden and his numerous train of followers ; and just as we were sitting 
 down to dinner, my husband suddenly espied three ponderous croco- 
 diles. Clearly enough I could discern them also, through the telescope, 
 stretched at their ease upon a mud bank to the westward, and basking 
 at lazy length in the warm bright sunshine. Unfortunately, the distance 
 was far too great for an Enfield rifle ball to reach them ; and under any 
 circumstances, it is considered a wonderful feat to kill a crocodile at all. 
 These most cautious animals have the power of gliding back into the 
 water with astonishing rapidity, on the first approach of threatened 
 danger, and are then at once lost to view. The natives care little about 
 them ; and if ever an accident does occur, it is when the crocodile has 
 been fast asleep, and supposes an escape to be impossible. We found 
 the sun very hot, even so late as four p.m., but it is always a great plea- 
 sure to walk on dry land for an hour or two, if possible, and observe 
 what the peasantry are doing in the fields. Fine athletic men are those 
 who work the very numerous shadoofs with incessant toil ; and their 
 labour is well rewarded, so far as an abundant vegetation is concerned. 
 Here, on the east bank, are fields of cotton, onions, lentils, and the 
 castor-oil plant ; the latter now in full yellow blossom. Near a village, 
 where we remained two hours, was an unusually extensive and most 
 beautiful palm grove, containing some of the largest Dom palms we saw 
 in Upper Egypt. A pretty little boy brought us several clusters of fine 
 dates, but they were far from ripe, and had none of that gingerbread 
 taste so often mentioned as belonging to them. Round the trunks of 
 all these trees the bark is curiously divided into regular circlets ; and if 
 each ring correctly marks just one year’s growth, some of the Theban 
 
96 
 
 KENEII. 
 
 patriarchs must be very old indeed. Tlie ground, everywhere, was 
 covered with hard thick stubble of durra. 
 
 Sunday , January Gth . — At half-past ten this morning we reached 
 Zieneh. Here Paolo wished to make some purchases, and left the boat 
 betimes — before we came quite near the town itself — the eastern bank 
 being there too steep for landing. The /veneh donkey-boys seem very 
 impudent, and no less noisy than they always are at Cairo. This little 
 port is chiefly famous as the place where Mecca pilgrims leave the Nile, 
 and commence their weary journey through the Desert to Cosseir on the 
 Eed Sea coast — and vice versa. Aeneh is likewise noted, all over Egypt, 
 for the manufacture of porous earthenware ; the clay for making which 
 — found in this locality — is mixed with sifted ashes of halfa grass. 
 The celebrated temple of Dendera stands immediately opposite, upon the 
 western side of the Nile, although the upper part alone, just behind a 
 grove of trees, can be seen distinctly from the river. This day was very 
 hot indeed, and one of our best sailors appears seriously indisposed. A 
 government steamer, towing a large and handsome dahabeeh , passed us 
 quickly by. This travelling party was, we heard, the Austrian Consul- 
 General and his family. The Consul’s son carried in his hand a small 
 red flag, and held it out towards us. They also lowered their ensign, 
 while “ La Gazelle ” returned the courteous salute with similar form and 
 ceremony. Behind the ddhabeeli two smaller boats were fastened, well 
 filled with sheep and poultry. We had an exceedingly pleasant walk 
 this evening, malgre the heat, through fields of corn, and castor-oil 
 plants. Men were occupied here and there in spreading natron to 
 manure the ground. Close to a large village, from whence a host of 
 barking dogs rushed out to meet us, stood a sibeel — or public fountain 
 — rudely picturesque ; whereon were placed two earthen drinking-vessels 
 for the use of tired and thirsty wayfarers. In accordance with a very 
 ancient law of Eastern charity, the villagers are compelled to keep these 
 pitchers always ready filled with water. At the next village, distant 
 
BALLAS. 
 
 97 
 
 about half a mile, we remained for some hours. Here were some 
 well-fed sheep, most of them quite black, and with beautifully thick 
 fleeces. In Egypt these animals have longer legs, and their necks are 
 much thicker, and less stumpy, than those of the finest sheep in 
 England. Women and children came down the bank to fill their 
 immense water-jars ; and wonderful, indeed, it was to see them nimbly 
 trip along, upright in figure, and with free elastic step — enormous 
 weights exactly balanced on their heads — withal so seemingly contented 
 in their daily toil, so careless and unmindful of its hardship. Most of 
 the cargo-boats we meet, have, from superstitious custom, a crocodile’s 
 head rudely carved upon the stem ; and, as I before remarked, a dried 
 or stuffed crocodile suspended outside a dwelling-house, is confidently 
 supposed, by the common people, to protect its inmates from the baneful 
 influence of an “ Evil eye.” 
 
 Monday , January 1th . — Our invalid sailor is recovering, so we hope 
 he will be quite well to-morrow. Still a dead calm, and the men towing 
 with all their strength ; although a gentle breeze sprang up for one short 
 hour last night, of which Eeis Osman took advantage ; but soon it fell 
 again, and we heard our anchor dropped mid stream. The night air felt 
 unusually close and oppressive ; while in our cabin this morning, at 
 eleven o’clock — with open windows and closed Venetian blinds — the 
 thermometer stood at seventy degrees Fahrenheit. At half-past six a.m. 
 we passed a village on the western bank called Balias, famous all over 
 Egypt for its manufacture of earthen jars, much larger in size than those 
 made at Aeneh. Great numbers of people were here busily employed 
 in constructing rafts of twisted branches, and packing jars upon them 
 with practised regularity and skill. On the east bank — verdant and 
 lovely as a landscape, rich in fruitful fields, tall trees, and pretty villages, 
 — a female peasant of erect and graceful figure came quickly to the river- 
 side for water. Her arms, even above the elbows, were closely covered 
 with amber and ivory bracelets, and she wore a silver nose ring. This 
 
 n 
 
98 
 
 NEGADEH. 
 
 latter ornament, sometimes inconveniently large, is more frequently seen 
 as we advance towards Nubia, than in the lower districts of the Nile 
 valley ; and also the complexion of the people becomes gradually darker, 
 shading by slow degrees from a light copper colour to nearly black. 
 At noon we passed Negadeh, on the west bank. Here is a well- 
 known Coptic convent and church, of no small consequence in Upper 
 Egypt, as the resort of priests and people from every part of the country. 
 A merry boat-load of half a dozen men took the trouble of landing at 
 Negadeh, with the sole apparent purpose of enjoying a game of true old 
 English “ Blind-man’s buff.” A few miles further on, the bank was very 
 steep ; and so difficult to climb, we were forcibly reminded of the great 
 Pyramid ; but our active ever-willing Arabs dragged us up in a moment, 
 and with scarcely an effort on our own part. We stopped just after 
 sunset at a pretty village, in the midst of a large palm grove, surrounded 
 by sugar plantations, and fields of corn and lentils. Near this place, we 
 were shown a most primitive and ingenious “ time piece,” worthy the 
 wise invention of our good King Alfred. It is commonly used by men 
 who work the shadoof, \ and merely consists of a large earthen jar, quite 
 full of water. In one side of this jar is pierced a hole, so exceedingly 
 minute, that the water slowly percolates through it drop by drop, and 
 by this simple plan, is time of labour daily measured. Paolo thinks the 
 jar we saw would probably last about two hours ; it was hung with care 
 upon a forked stick, fixed firmly in the ground, by the workmen’s side. 
 Beyond this village, the river bends considerably to the westward. 
 
 Tuesday , January 8th . — We were off by four a.m., with hardly a 
 breath of wind, and the heat increasing as day advanced. The whole 
 morning was busily spent in making up letters to be posted at Luxor, 
 and passed very rapidly away. Crowds of men and boys, employed by 
 Government, i. e. the Viceroy, are deepening and enlarging an already 
 wide canal, which extends into the interior from Erment. Most of these 
 poor creatures were entirely naked, except a white cotton scarf tied 
 
ERMENT. 
 
 99 
 
 loosely round the loins. Their labour is altogether compulsory, for they 
 receive neither wages nor food in recompense. Paolo — whatever may 
 be his failings, he is kind and charitable to the needy and destitute — in 
 reply to their entreaties threw several loaves of bread towards them ; 
 whereupon, of course, ensued a general shouting, splashing, diving, and 
 scrambling, that continued even longer than the immediate cause of this 
 excitement held out ; and our progress being tediously retarded, we had 
 no possible chance of a speedy escape. At four p.m., when we arrived 
 at Thebes, the thermometer in our cabin stood at seventy-eight degrees. 
 Three steamers lay at anchor, all filled with Europeans ; and among 
 many dahabeehs and cangias we soon caught sight of our old vessel 
 “ Clothilde,” now engaged by a party of American travellers. Eeis 
 Regem had just departed on two days’ leave of absence, to marry a 
 second wife at Kom Ombo, his native place. The handsome dahabeeh 
 of Said Pacha, lent by his Highness to Lord and Lady Haddo, lies 
 moored to the western bank. On the Luxor side are several brick-kilns 
 looking very much like those in England ; and the bricks, piled in a 
 similar manner, are generally of the same size and shape as our own. 
 
 Wednesday , January 9th . — Again no wind ; and the men are sadly 
 fatigued with this continual labour of towing, day after day, beneath 
 a broiling sun. Children of the fellaliin , in Upper Egypt, under ten or 
 twelve years old, hardly ever wear clothing ; their heads are almost 
 invariably covered with a little, close-fitting white cap, but they seldom 
 have anything else, at least in warm weather. About four p.m. we 
 slowly passed Erment, where is a large sugar factory. The steam engine 
 belonging to this establishment, was raising water to irrigate the land ; 
 and camels, loaded and unloaded, were stalking to and fro. Several 
 small boats of the very rudest construction, made by the country 
 people, lay close to the shore. They were formed either of roughly 
 hewn planks, or boughs of trees, and plastered over with mud to keep 
 the water out ; one would think even the frailest rafts of Aeneli pottery 
 
100 
 
 ESNE. 
 
 must be safe compared with any one of these. Green fields of corn 
 and chicory extended far and wide upon the western bank, and we 
 strolled along them for an hour or two. Before sunset, a light breeze 
 sprang up, and Reis Osman ordered all our crew to offer prayer to 
 God for its continuance. Accordingly, every man on board stood up, 
 and loudly repeated a few set words to that effect in chorus. At 
 half-past seven p.m. the anchor dropped mid stream. We now begin 
 to fear our sailors’ supply of bread may possibly run short before we 
 reach Esne, where is the next public oven ; unless we can advance 
 more rapidly to-morrow than we have done to-day. 
 
 Thursday , January 10 tli . — A slight wind for two hours during last 
 night has helped us on a little ; but early this morning it was again 
 necessary to tax the strength of our poor tired Arabs at the tow-rope. 
 Two o’clock, however, brought us a fair light breeze, and most thankful 
 were we for this welcome change. At five p.m. we anchored near the 
 pylon of the Temple of Esne — Latopolis — and shall, probably, remain 
 here all day to-morrow ; giving our sailors ample time to replenish their 
 bread store, and take that rest they now so very much require. Esne 
 is a remarkably pretty town, surrounded with fine sycamore trees. 
 The land is rich beyond conception, and proportionately well tilled 
 and fruitful. Besides extensive corn tracts, are large fields of hdmiyehs , 
 beans and tobacco, the latter growing like a luxuriant weed quite close 
 to the water’s edge. Between Erment and Esne the banks of the Nile 
 are generally steep. Every inch of ground is cultivated with lupins 
 and other vegetables ; and the inhabitants of both these places are 
 comparatively wealthy in cattle, sheep and goats. Our Arab crew, 
 while with sails spread wide we merrily scudded before the favouring 
 breeze, and again this evening when their task was done, quickly 
 forgetting all bodily fatigue, gave full vent to their joy in national 
 music, playing and singing with a might and energy we had never 
 observed at other times. 
 
ESNE. 
 
 101 
 
 Friday , January 11th. A little girl, of seven years old perhaps, 
 stood trembling on the bank this morning — an irresistible feeling of 
 curiosity had brought her there ; but in vain did my readily accepted 
 gift of a small copper coin and a string of beads serve to allay her 
 fears. This poor child’s terror was extreme, lest we should forthwith 
 seize and carry her off as a slave. Her only garment was a leathern 
 fringed girdle round the loins ; and throughout Nubia it is customary 
 for young unmarried females to appear everywhere thus scantily attired ; 
 while their persons are thickly smeared from head to foot with castor 
 oil, to protect them from the burning heat of a tropical sun. When 
 these women marry, they always wear a long wide shirt of coarse blue 
 cotton cloth. We had not far to go, in visiting the Temple of Esne ; 
 whose splendid portico, cleared out by order of Mohammed Ali Pacha, 
 is all that has yet been excavated. It is very much to be lamented 
 that the whole of this fine building has not long ago been brought 
 to light. The elegant though massive columns of its portico — each 
 seventeen feet in circumference at the base — and the elaborate, well 
 executed sculpture with which the lofty walls, and these beautiful 
 columns also, are completely covered, afford undoubted evidence of 
 an architectural grandeur that ought not to lie for ever buried and 
 concealed. A zodiac, that once adorned the ceiling of this portico, 
 has been removed to Prance within the last few years. That these 
 sculptures were originally embellished by rich and vivid colouring, 
 is still quite manifest through every portion of them. The subjects 
 represent dedications and offerings to Kneph, the presiding deity ; 
 and wherever these do not occur, the space is filled either by a 
 cartouche or a row of sharply-cut hieroglyphics. The present Viceroy 
 has sufficient wisdom to forbid the desecration of this magnificent 
 portico, by its being any longer used, as heretofore, for a common 
 granary. From the temple — passing through some ill-supplied 
 bazaars — we went over the whole of Said Pacha’s palace. The 
 
102 
 
 ESNE. 
 
 garden is largo, shaded in every part by fine trees, and more care- 
 fully cultivated than many others we have seen in Egypt. A water- 
 channel, contained within courses of brick, cemented over with lime, 
 runs along one side of all the broadest walks ; and water is thence 
 conveyed in different directions, as occasion may require. The 
 orange and lemon trees look parched and dry, but the fruit still 
 remaining on them is of prodigious size. We experienced a fore- 
 taste of really tropical warmth to-day ; what then must be the heat 
 of summer months at Esne ! White and yellow jasmine are both in 
 full flower, and their exquisite perfume is apparent everywhere. We 
 gladly accepted two handsome bouquets from the Arab gardener, 
 who also gave us an enormous lemon, larger than an ostrich egg. 
 There were pomegranate trees in great abundance, and most of our 
 English garden vegetables seem to grow and flourish here. The 
 palace is very meagrely furnished, like Eastern houses in general ; but 
 it is admirably adapted, nevertheless, to this hot climate. From the 
 roof we obtained an extensive view of the Nile Valley, clad in fresh 
 robes of brightest verdure, the noble stream embellishing at every 
 turn the gay and smiling landscape of its own creation. We found 
 the lower apartments delightfully cool and pleasant, but the best and 
 most luxurious of them all are the bath-rooms. The kitchen stands 
 about a hundred yards from the palace gate, and is rudely built of 
 sun-burnt bricks, plastered with mud, and roofed in with palm 
 branches. Its floor is the bare ground, and the ovens and ranges 
 would certainly astonish a civilised artiste — who could, however, 
 scarcely despise the excellent dinners that so often emanate from an 
 Egyptian cuisine. Not far from hence are some detached buildings, 
 at present occupied as barracks ; but at first erected for the manufacture 
 of cotton cloth, which now is made only at Cairo and Alexandria. 
 A provincial Governor resides at Esne ; and some of the houses are 
 substantially built, and are ornamented with stone or earthenware 
 
ESNE. 
 
 103 
 
 jars around the roof, in two and sometimes three tiers. This style 
 of decoration is not uncommon, but we saw none at any other place 
 where the jars were of so large a size as these. We passed 
 
 another of those unhappy “ Saints,” or santons , scorching in the 
 blaze of sunshine ; he had heavy Ethiopian features, while his 
 
 shrivelled skin was black as jet. And there this wretched maniac 
 lies, day and night, all the year round — they say — his no less 
 pitiable admirers always supplying him with food ; and what he 
 cannot eat himself, he gives in charity to starving people, or to the 
 dogs and pigeons. Between the temple and the modern palace 
 there are remains of a stone quay — supposed, by antiquaries, of Roman 
 date ; and numerous mounds, with sculptured stones and fragments, 
 continually arrest the stranger’s eye. We slowly strolled along the 
 bank, to profit by the grateful shade of some fine sycamores ; and 
 were preceded by a boy of eight or nine years old, who readily 
 
 assumed the office of our guide ; and brandishing a stick much taller 
 than himself, he strutted on with droll attempts at dignified 
 
 importance. He was followed by another boy, considerably his 
 senior ; and who, to our surprise, put up with several blows from 
 this very pert young cicerone ; but we found out at last, that there was 
 a friendly understanding in the matter, to share expected backsheesh , 
 whatever that might be ; and accordingly, we saw a half piastre 
 cheerfully accepted, and then with honest care divided. At six p.m. the 
 thermometer in our cabin stood at seventy-one degrees Fahrenheit. We 
 could not comfortably remain on deck this evening ; since an entire 
 absence of wind to carry off the smoke from Esne, rendered the 
 atmosphere particularly close and disagreeable. 
 
 Saturday , January 12 th. — Off at six a.m. with the pleasing variety 
 of a favourable wind ; but we only became sensible to the unwonted 
 rapidity of our progress when another dahabeeh hove in sight, 
 bearing the French flag. She struggled laboriously against the breeze, 
 
104 
 
 TIIE NILE. 
 
 and was soon left far behind by the now fleet “ Gazelle.” At eleven 
 o’clock we were opposite El Kab, the old Eilethyas ; and at one p.m. 
 we passed Edfon — Apollinopolis Magna. A few miles further, on 
 the east bank, are ruins of some former town, apparently of no very 
 ancient date, and considered by Sir Gardner Wilkinson to be entirely 
 of Arab construction. The wind subsided a little towards evening, 
 but there was still enough to fill our sails, and at seven p.m. we 
 were passing up the narrow channel which divides the quarried 
 rocks of Gebel Silsilis. Although to-night is unusually dark and 
 dismal, the silvery moon, just one day old, was faintly to be seen 
 at sunset. After this long day of comparative rest, our sailors have 
 again enjoyed their music. 
 
 Sunday, January lotli . — Eemained quietly at anchor from one 
 o’clock this morning until six. At ten a.m. we came opposite Eeis 
 Osman’s native village, and saw the affectionate greeting that there 
 took place between our worthy Captain and his aged father — a 
 venerable white-bearded patriarch of fourscore years. The Eeis has 
 a half-brother, one of the crew, on board our boat, being his 
 mother’s son by a second marriage. Good Eeis Osman most freely 
 distributed a variety of little gifts from Cairo to his poor old father 
 and assembled friends — such as a piece of soap, tobacco, or a small 
 quantity of sugar. In fact, nearly all our sailors belong to this 
 neighbourhood, and each has brought, according to his means, some 
 trifling present that can only be procured in the lower country, and 
 will here be doubly prized, in proof of kind remembrance, when 
 absent from his early home for weeks and months together. Several 
 large bags of salt were carried on shore at this village, and therefore 
 salt must needs be very scarce and especially required. A couple 
 of mill-stones also were landed here, and with considerable exertion 
 borne upon two men’s shoulders — eliciting the while some hearty 
 peals of laughter — from the very soft and sinking nature, and 
 
ASSOUAN. 
 
 105 
 
 excessive steepness of the ground. I have described the native boats 
 of Upper Egypt in a previous page ; but one of- them was lying 
 on the bank to-day, of common reeds so roughly put together, 
 we wondered how it could be kept afloat at all. Approaching 
 Assouan from the north, the banks become gradually lower on either 
 side ; the more distant hills — here and there graced by a ruined 
 tower — increase in altitude, and are thickly clothed with trees ; 
 flowering lupins grow quite close to the water ; while every inch 
 of arable land seems turned to good account, and is beautifully 
 verdant, far as the eye can roam, with newly-sprung corn and 
 vegetables. We met our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Douglas, going down 
 the stream, their pretty dahabeeh toiling hard against a head 
 wind ; and by four p.m. we came to anchor at Assouan — the famed 
 Syene of ancient days — a strong north wind having favoured our 
 progress, in proportion as it must have greatly retarded the advance 
 of all contrary bound travellers. Assouan, in olden times the frontier 
 town of Egypt — placed to defend a mighty nation’s boundaries — 
 long stood as warlike sentinel to guard the rich and fertile valley of 
 the Nile — how justly termed “ the garden of the Lord ! ” Here 
 the majestic stream flows quickly on within a rock-bound channel, and 
 in its midst stands once important Elephantine Island. Stupendous 
 granite cliffs, occasionally crowned with ruins, and rocky masses 
 piled in fantastic groups, share the main land between them ; while 
 many a boulder, huge and picturesque, rises in sharp, clear outline 
 from the water — this lovely evening calm and still ; one would not 
 think the rush of foaming torrents was so near. But so it is in truth. 
 Behind these Titan barriers for ever roars the Nile’s First Cataract, 
 and through that formidable gateway all must pass who enter by this 
 way into Nubia. Few traces now remain of old Syene; but lofty 
 palm trees cover and adorn its site, and hide decay from view. The 
 dates produced at Assouan are very fine, and particularly those of 
 
106 
 
 ASSOUAN. 
 
 the Dom palm, which have always been remarkable for their large 
 size and excellent flavour. We scrambled up the steep bank to 
 examine the ruins of a small temple and some granite columns ; and 
 also the remains of what is generally supposed to be the fragment 
 of a wondrous bridge, spanning the Nile across from hence to 
 Elephantine, in ages long gone by. Just before sunset Eeis Osman 
 came to make his gracefid salaams , on leaving us for a two days’ 
 visit to his own village ; an indulgence which his uniform good 
 conduct has in the present instance fairly earned. 
 
 Monday , January 14 tli . — An early breakfast; and punctually at 
 half-past eight o'clock we mounted active little donkeys, and started 
 off for Phike at a rapid pace. The sun was very powerful, even at 
 this morning hour, but the heat was gently tempered by a light 
 refreshing breeze. We passed some remains of an old Saracenic 
 wall to the southward of the town ; and rode through the cemetery, 
 where many of the oldest cenotaphs are said to bear a date from 
 the first century of the Hegira. We kept along the open sandy 
 plain lying eastward of the famous granite quarries ; and in former 
 times a broad, paved chariot road extended all the way, bounded 
 on either hand by solid crude brick walls, of which sufficient frag- 
 ments yet appear to mark its course. The rocks we saw in this 
 
 direction bore frequent traces of the stonecutter’s wedge, besides 
 being often marked by hieroglyphic tablets. Paolo told us that one 
 insulated height, more lofty than the rest, bears a traditionary story 
 of but forty years ago. A certain Ethiopian slave — cold-blooded 
 and desperate — in some manner gained possession of two muskets, 
 and then taking his stand here, all alone, for a long time robbed 
 and murdered solitary wayfarers with impunity. But treachery at 
 last prevailed, where force was ineffectual ; the daring slave, taken 
 prisoner in his own stronghold, was immediately executed ; while to 
 this day a superstitious horror lingers round the scene, and few 
 
rmuE. 
 
 107 
 
 would venture there without companions. A Latin church and 
 convent, not yet completed, have risen near a small village opposite 
 to Philm — whither we were thence conveyed in rather less than 
 five minutes by a neat and well constructed row-boat. A dahabeeh , 
 returned from Wady Halfeh, lay very near the landing-place ; and 
 which belonged to Mr. Hoskins — author of an extremely interesting 
 book, called “ Travels in Ethiopia, Meroe,” &c. — who intends 
 remaining several weeks, to breathe an atmosphere ever bahny and 
 pure, and most renovating to his feeble state of health — amid scenes 
 of unrivalled natural loveliness, and rich in noble relics of man’s 
 loftiest genius. Here we find splendid ruins — combined with rocky 
 steeps, grand in their endless variety of form and colour — finely 
 wooded hills and sheltered glens ; that deep blue Nubian sky ; and 
 more than all, the mighty Nile himself — nowhere so beautiful as 
 when he gently bathes the feet of temple-honoured Pliilte. Can any 
 other spot on earth be found with such a gorgeous landscape ! 
 
 I will not vainly attempt to describe the magnificent temples 
 of Pliike. “The whole island,” says Eliot Warburton, “is not above 
 fifty acres in size, but it is richer perhaps in objects of interest than 
 any spot of similar extent in the world. Here the student might 
 live for years, finding each day revealing some new source of know- 
 ledge, and the antiquities of the island unexhausted, until he became 
 one himself.” We ascended to the roof of one tower of the Great 
 Pylon — which is built in four stories ■ — by a winding staircase in 
 tolerable preservation ; and from whence the best idea may be obtained 
 of the general extent, if not the actual plan, of the maze of ruined 
 structures below. The adjacent small island of Biggeh is described 
 by many travellers as containing some curious antiquities, but day 
 was fast advancing, and Philoe had absorbed our whole attention. 
 The donkeys met us at a point much nearer to the Cataract than 
 where we left them two hours previously ; and we then rode back 
 
108 
 
 ELEPHANTINE. 
 
 towards Assouan by a more western route, to visit on our way the 
 world-renowned Syenite Quarries. That highly-prized green marble, 
 for which they once were chiefly celebrated, appears at present very 
 scarce indeed, though plentiful enough in ancient days. The granite 
 Obelisk, so often mentioned by Egyptian travellers — apparently broken 
 before it could be removed — still lies prostrate in its old position, 
 and occupies the selfsame spot from whence its grand proportions 
 were originally hewn. The wild inhabitants of Assouan are now, to 
 all appearance, miserably poor ; their soil is for the most part sandy 
 and barren, producing few crops but those of their valuable date 
 trees ; almost everything else, that urgent necessity requires, being 
 brought from other places. They eagerly crowded round our boat, 
 bringing Nubian and Ethiopian curiosities for sale, of which we made 
 some purchases ; no easy task where all had goods to offer, with 
 noisy tongues to talk of them, and bargain for their prices. There 
 were leathern girdles, adorned with beads and cowrie-shells, and 
 which the owners always soak in castor oil before they wear them ; 
 gourds, large and small, for holding water, nicely scooped out into the 
 shape of cups or basins, and stamped with tasteful patterns ; bracelets 
 and rings of solid silver and most strange design, all wrought at 
 Darfour ; square pincushions to hang up in a room, and quaintly 
 trimmed with nuts and ostrich feathers ; ivory armlets ; mats of 
 wicker-work ; and incense-burners of Egyptian pottery. After dinner 
 we rowed across to Elephantine, a very short distance of scarcely 
 ten minutes each way. In vain we sought at least one fragment of 
 the old Nilometer, whose upper portion was removed for building 
 purposes so late as 1822 — merely assisting to erect the paltry 
 modern palace of some Bey or Pacha at Assouan. This island now 
 possesses little interest for the passing stranger. Almost entirely 
 
 covered with an undistinguishable debris of former temples, quays 
 and royal palaces, the only striking objects still erect arc two huge 
 
TIIE NILE. 
 
 109 
 
 granite gate-posts of the time of Alexander — but any edifice to which 
 they once belonged has been completely swept away. Not far north- 
 ward stands a sadly mutilated statue of red granite ; and vestiges of 
 an ancient sacrificial altar, dedicated to the great god Ammon. A 
 pretty child, of five or six years old, came rather timidly towards us, 
 carrying a tray of broken stones and bits of Roman glass — in her 
 eyes, and she fondly hoped in ours — all priceless treasures of antiquity. 
 Her oily hair was parted in one fine from ear to ear, and hung 
 quite straight all round in tiny plaits like packthread. She wore a 
 
 silver necklace, but her only garment was a coarse brown woollen 
 
 shirt. A few square acres of good and fertile land are here 
 cultivated by the Nubian inhabitants of a most wretched village — 
 picturesque from its grove of palm trees ; and in spite of Paolo’s 
 fears to the contrary, these half-starved peasants did nothing to 
 
 annoy us, except by loud cries for backsheesh , and an eager desire to 
 gratify their very natural curiosity. They closely followed us to our 
 barge, and then stood gazing wonderstruck as we slowly left the 
 shore. The rocky island of Schayl lies immediately north of the 
 First Cataract, and contains many excavated tombs, and hieroglyphic 
 tablets of early date, besides the ruined substructions of a small 
 
 Ptolemaic temple. 
 
 Tuesday , January lhth . — The music of a neighbouring water- 
 wheel continued all last night, but was far too soothing and 
 harmonious to prevent our sleeping soundly after yesterday’s fatigues. 
 We left Assouan at six a.m. under temporary command of the second 
 Reis, and with only half a dozen of our sailors. That still calm 
 weather, so lately deprecated, has now become most advantageous 
 to our progress down the river ; but nevertheless we turn our backs 
 on Nubia with very deep regret. In just three hours from starting- 
 time we reached Reis Osman’s village, and Paolo had to fire — as 
 he well knew beforehand — many sharp signals ere our good Captain 
 
no 
 
 KOM UMBO. 
 
 and his trusty men could leave their homes and friends they will 
 not see again till summer has passed by. Several strings of beads 
 we gave to dingy urchins ; who instantly ran away, much more 
 content and happy in their riches than the envied millionnaire. 
 
 At Kom Ombo — the ancient Ombos, once so famous for its 
 worship of the crocodile — are ruins of a very fine temple, founded 
 in the reign of Ptolemy Philometor ; and which is said to stand 
 unique amid the old existing monuments of Egypt, in having a 
 double entrance and two parallel sanctuaries. Our dahabeeh was 
 moored quite close below the ruins ; but first there was the river’s 
 bank to climb, and then a steep ascent of dry soft sand — yearly 
 accumulating — beneath which the chief part of this great temple 
 now lies completely buried. Two of our Arab sailors helped us on, 
 with less exertion to ourselves than we thought possible, although 
 the sun was hot and not one breath of air was stirring. No simply 
 human power, could ever have displaced enormous blocks of sand- 
 stone from this noble pile ; the same Almighty Hand that threw 
 down Dagon ; in His most righteous anger — by an earthquake, 
 shattered these ! A well cut Greek inscription, unimpaired by time, 
 continues to record the name of Ptolemy Philometor ; while hiero- 
 glyphic sculptures, beautifully executed, and very spirited in design, 
 cover the ceilings, friezes, walls, and columns ; some of them have 
 evidently been left unfinished ; and frequent remains of painting are 
 still so fresh and vivid, that the varied colours even yet preserve 
 nearly all their original brilliancy. Vain was our search to-day for 
 venerated relics seen by Eliot Warburton — “the tank wherein the 
 sacred crocodile bathed, and the brick terrace on which he took his 
 daily promenade.” Close by are less important ruins, erected on an 
 artificial platform, and standing at right angles with the larger temple. 
 The whole area of these sacred precincts was formerly enclosed within 
 a broad and solid wall of unburnt bricks ; and on the eastern side 
 
GEBEL SILSILIS. 
 
 Ill 
 
 are seen two massive gate-posts built of stone. We returned to 
 “ La Gazelle ” through fields of cotton, dhura, lupins, and castor-oil 
 plants ; and by half-past three P.M. were again en route. Soon after 
 sunset we fired off every gun and pistol to be found on board ; 
 while Paolo raised his deep-toned sonorous voice in energetic chorus 
 with our Arabs. Loud and clear were the warlike sounds, as they 
 now rolled on and on — volley after volley — among rocky mountains 
 at each side the river ; and then they by degrees died quite away. 
 I never before have listened to an echo half so fine as this. At nine 
 o’clock we came to Gebel Silsilis. 
 
 Wednesday, January 1 6th . — A cup of warm coffee at half-past 
 six this morning, ere we stepped into our little row-boat, and went 
 across the Nile to see some wondrous quarries on the eastern shore ; 
 famed as the place from whence were hewn those ponderous sand- 
 stone masses, used in constructing most of the larger towns and 
 splendid temple-palaces of ancient Egypt. The city, Silsilis, once stood 
 upon this eastern bank ; though nothing can be found to mark its 
 site, save the foundations of a stone-built edifice, which, it is said, 
 may be a former temple. The quarries present, in truth, a most 
 extraordinary appearance ; and are as worthy of a stranger’s notice 
 as the very buildings themselves, for whose erection they afforded 
 abundant material. One long straight chasm, in particular, has been 
 cut down to a prodigious depth, and leads directly through a wide 
 and open space ; different cuttings producing the effect of half 
 completed blocks of every size — some standing quite upright, like 
 large square columns, or parts of gigantic obelisks. We passed by 
 two small sanctuaries, excavated in solid rock, with sacrificial altars 
 near them ; two huge unfinished sphinxes ; and what surprised us 
 more than all the rest — the rough hewn outline of a very spacious 
 temple, of which its plan can be distinctly traced ; the numerous 
 blocks of stone are ready to be shaped and smoothed into those 
 
112 
 
 GEBEL SILSILIS. 
 
 rich designs and architectural forms so fine a monument might well 
 demand. My husband thinks that one square column may certainly be 
 forty feet in height ; he measured it himself at twenty-four feet wide 
 and twelve feet thick. These eastern quarries are generally considered 
 uninteresting, compared with those upon the west bank of the Nile ; 
 but ours was quite a contrary opinion, when we had fairly seen and 
 recognised the special merits of the two. The western caves and 
 grottoes are doubtless very interesting to lovers of antiquity ; from 
 their many ancient statues, curious paintings, and hieroglyphic tablets ; 
 “ executed,” says Sir Gardner Wilkinson, “ in the early time of the 
 Pharaohs of the eighteenth dynasty.” The largest grotto that we 
 visited consists of one long corridor, sculptured — as indeed are most 
 of them — both inside and out with tablets of hieroglyphics. These 
 caves have deep recesses, containing seated statues ; and in the floors 
 of all of them, are hollow places to receive sarcophagi. Sometimes 
 a sculptured figure sits alone, but oftener two or three appear in 
 company ; and, in one solitary instance, we saw six statues closely 
 ranged together. In point of vast extent and magnitude, the western 
 quarries are very much inferior to those upon the east bank of the 
 Nile ; but old artistic grottoes claim a decided preference with many 
 celebrated travellers of modern times. Year after year the drifting 
 sand encroaches on these rock-hewn sepulchres, although perchance 
 it may require the lapse of centuries to fill them up entirely. The 
 sandy soil is tilled at intervals, and yields a scanty crop of mingled 
 corn and chicory ; even such partial spots of bright fresh green are 
 pleasant to the eye, in contrast with the yellow sun-burnt hue of all 
 around them. At eleven a.m. we turned from Gebel Silsilis, our 
 sailors rowing hard against a contrary breeze, and the vessel rolling 
 terribly from side to side. Towards sunset the wind gradually 
 went down, and we anchored for the night at nine o'clock. 
 
 Thursday , January 17 th . — A dead calm, just what we most desire. 
 
EDFOU. 
 
 313 
 
 We started punctually at six a.m. and soon arrived at Edfou — at 
 least within a half hour’s inland ride of that miserable mud-built 
 town which bears the name, and occupies a wide extent of ground. 
 Our whole route lay through fields of cotton, lentils, corn and castor- 
 oil plants, but everything looked parched and dry ; while the hot 
 sun beat fiercely on our heads, with not the faintest breath of wind 
 to cool the air. Edfou can boast remains of two fine Ptolemaic 
 temples, one very far superior to the other. The largest building 
 has been of late completely cleared of sand and rubbish, and now 
 stands forth a perfect model of its age. The lofty massive walls, 
 both exterior and within, are covered over with rich sculpture, 
 exquisitely finished — even to the finest network — and most graphic 
 in design, whether in bold relief or deeply sunk intaglio. The finely 
 cut cartouches and hieroglyphic tablets are beautifully chiselled, and 
 spirited beyond description. Each separate figure is admirably 
 developed, and some of them are of colossal size. The subjects 
 chiefly represent propitiatory offerings to the presiding Deity — Hor- 
 Hat, or Agathodasmon — and traces of bright colours are apparent 
 here and there. Enclosed within what is supposed the sanctuary, 
 a small room has been excavated — eleven feet high and eight feet 
 square — hewn from a single block of granite ; and grooves for hinges 
 of a double door are still perceptible. Here, the High Priest is 
 supposed to have entered, to consult the oracle. Along three sides 
 of this same sanctuary runs a broad corridor, from whence ten 
 chambers lead, with places for sarcophagi hollowed in them floors ; 
 and each is dimly lighted by an opening in the roof, narrow in 
 itself, but widening inwards, rather like the port-hole of a ship. As 
 we stood upon the summit of the pylon, and looked below into the 
 Grand Court, or Atrium , the general effect was exceedingly imposing, 
 from the great number, size, and preservation of the columns — 
 their shafts elaborately sculptured, and crowned with noble capitals, 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 EL-KAB. 
 
 scarcely two of them alike. I was fortunate in the purchase of a 
 little porcelain idol lately found there by an Arab. The view from 
 thence of the surrounding country is very beautiful and extensive. 
 The river bends considerably, and the luxuriant Valley of the Nile is 
 nowhere seen to more advantage. On this occasion we deplored a 
 want of clearness in the atmosphere, to-day obscured by clouds of 
 sand and a too dazzling sunlight. Far to the east we saw sand 
 rising upwards in a spectral form — a tall straight pillar moving 
 rapidly before the wind. The smaller temple is at present much 
 concealed by mounds of sand and rubbish, while a solitary column 
 now supports the roof of its one unburied chamber. Nearly all the 
 women at Edfou wear brass or silver nose-rings, and plait their 
 greasy hair in thin round tresses, exactly as in days of yore ; most 
 female figures portrayed upon the temple walls being represented 
 with this unbecoming coiffure. A quarter past one P.M., and we were 
 under weigh once more. A monster crocodile, to our amazement, 
 came slowly down the eastern bank into the stream. We were not 
 near enough to cause him much alarm, or at all accelerate his speed. 
 My husband went into the cabin for his rifle ; but too late — our 
 cautious friend had timely disappeared. The sun was setting when 
 this incident occurred ; and his bright rays, reflected on the crocodile’s 
 grey scales, made the unwieldy creature seem a gliding mass of 
 burnished silver. We reached El-Kab just after six this evening ; 
 and then the village guard came quickly ; their aged sheikh well 
 known to Paolo during thirty years. This old Egyptian had a long 
 grey beard ; and fleshless sinewy arms, duly provided with a strong 
 thick staff, the usual emblem of his dignity — and now the firm support 
 of his decaying frame. Their fire of reeds blazed cheerily ; and very 
 picturesque appeared this group of Arab fellahin, joined by some 
 sailors from our crew, sitting together in a circle round. The 
 kindling glare shone full upon those swarthy animated features, and 
 
EL-KAI5. 
 
 115 
 
 lighted up their crimson caps, white turbans, and blue cotton shirts, 
 while through long hours they smoked alternately the never-failing 
 pipe, or told a wondrous tale. 
 
 Friday , January 18 th . — We mounted donkeys at nine o’clock A.M., 
 anxious to see what yet remains of ancient Eiletliyas. This town 
 was once surrounded by a substantial wall of unburnt bricks, 
 unusually large in size ; and the whole circuit — for the most part 
 entire — can still be traced distinctly. On the southern side we 
 saw remains of columns, stone-built gateways, a sacrificial altar, and 
 many other vestiges of temples, including a large piscina , circular 
 in form, cased round with solid masonry ; and even yet, water is 
 freely led into this reservoir, by means of a canal, running straight 
 thither from the Nile. Passing the crumbling columns of a once 
 noble edifice, we rode along the valley to the eastward, and which — 
 covered with water during months of inundation — is now beyond 
 description bare and dry; its surface white in several places from 
 the natron that supplies the neighbouring fellahin with salt. When- 
 ever rain has fallen to any great extent among the hills, torrents 
 sweep down this valley, carrying vast quantities of stone in their 
 impetuous haste, and rushing onwards with a deafening noise. At 
 one spot only, just a mile distant from the river’s bank, are copious 
 springs of slightly brackish water oozing gently from the ground, 
 but not relieving its sterility. This barren plain appears to be 
 regarded with some superstitious reverence, and a religious festival 
 is held here every Easter. In this same valley, nearly three miles 
 from where we left our boat, we found the ancient temple of 
 Amunoph III., once dedicated to Lucina, and consisting of but one 
 apartment only. This chamber is supported by four columns, with 
 an open area in front, and a paved platform extending round three 
 sides. The interior walls are completely covered with paintings — 
 chiefly votive offerings to the presiding goddess — very expressive, 
 
lie 
 
 EL-KAB. 
 
 and in a wonderful state of preservation. At no great distance from 
 thence we came to a small square chapel, “ dedicated,” says Sir 
 Gardner Wilkinson, “by Rameses II. to Re.” — Its inside walls are 
 adorned with sculptured paintings in high relief, and these are 
 generally much defaced by constant exposure to the weather. But 
 the grottoes of Eilethyas are by far the most attractive relics of 
 past ages to be seen in this locality, although the ancient structures 
 are not uninteresting in themselves. Outside each cave yawns wide 
 a mummy pit ; and in the exterior rock are deeply-cut recesses, 
 apparently destined to admit sarcophagi. We spent some time 
 within these grottoes ; the largest and the best of which, scarcely 
 impaired by time, is indeed a precious treasure to the antiquarian 
 student ; from its containing the most spirited coloured drawings one 
 can at all imagine, clearly depicting the various agricultural pursuits 
 of ancient country-bred Egyptians ; besides those numberless domestic 
 occupations and amusements of their daily life, to which we should 
 be utter strangers otherwise. Here the farmer’s plough is seen at 
 work, drawn by fine oxen, or guided and drawn by men ; some 
 people are sowing seed, others busily reaping, and oxen are treading 
 out the corn. The whole process of making wine is graphically 
 delineated ; fowling and fishing scenes ; funeral processions ; festivals, 
 where musical instruments are introduced ; boating parties — and 
 also very much that I have now forgotten. In visiting an excavated 
 temple, we mounted — by gradual ascent — a once long and noble 
 staircase, with handsome balustrades of masonry. Outside this 
 spacious cavern, a large sized tablet — well sculptured on the rock — 
 portrays in lull length figures King Rameses II., presenting offerings 
 to Lucina, and to the great god Re. The heat to-day was very 
 overpowering ; and we were glad at noon to find ourselves again on 
 board the dahabeeh. At five P.M. we passed by Esne, and truly 
 charming was the evening air. Experience soon teaches one to 
 
ERMENT. 
 
 117 
 
 guard against the usual chilliness of atmosphere, at sunset, on the 
 Nile ; for which a stranger is not generally prepared, and often 
 suffers from this sudden change of temperature, acting injuriously on 
 the health. By dint of hard incessant rowing, we reached Erment 
 exactly at eleven o’clock. Our Arab sailors seem to pride themselves 
 upon the beauty and arrangement of their turbans, some of which 
 are closely interwoven with gold and coloured threads. The more 
 decidedly to mark his station, the Reis has six rolls in his massive 
 turban ; Reis number two displays but five ; the others only three or four. 
 
 Saturday , January 1(M. — Started on donkeys at nine this 
 morning, for the thriving little town of Erment — the old Hermonthis 
 
 — a pleasant two hours’ excursion, full of interest. The sugar 
 factory stands high, and close upon the river’s bank, with several 
 well built houses near it, and good productive gardens. The 
 favourite crops are evidently those of beans and onions ; green 
 peas are now in blossom ; and we saw some castor-oil plants here 
 and there in patches. The cone-like moulds for sugar-loaves are 
 made of common mud, baked to the proper hardness in a brick- 
 kiln. A broad straight road, shaded by splendid sycamores — large 
 tracts of irrigated land on either side — leads all the way to Erment 
 
 — three miles distant. The trees afford a welcome and secure 
 retreat to numerous pretty turtle-doves, which coo the livelong day 
 within their wide-spread leafy branches. We met long strings of 
 awkward clumsy camels, well loaded with fine sugar-canes. For 
 bridges, factories, and houses of the present day’s necessity, the 
 largest of two ancient temples is now utterly demolished ; part of its 
 material having served to built a Christian church, of which — 
 except substructions — nothing can be seen but several prostrate 
 granite columns. The smaller temple is, indeed, most beautiful, and 
 was erected by Cleopatra ; the interior walls are richly sculptured, in 
 allusion to her son Csesarion’s birth. This temple, as it now appears, 
 
 3 
 
118 
 
 LUXOK. 
 
 consists of one apartment only — used, in very recent times, both 
 as a granary and a prison. The outer court has been despoiled of 
 many columns and entablatures ; to furnish building stone, more 
 easily than quarrying from the neighbouring mountains. Connected 
 with the larger ruins is an old reservoir for water, once cased all 
 round with masonry, but now much broken and decayed. We 
 procured from hence an antique scarabasus, and a few other trifles. 
 By half-past one o’clock we took our station near the eastern 
 bank, at Thebes ; and found some letters ready for us in the hands 
 of Mustafa Agha — our nation’s representative in Upper Egypt. 
 
 Sunday , January 2 Oth. — For Divine Service on board our 
 dahabeeh, we were happily enabled to assemble seventeen persons ; 
 and the Bev. Dr. Veitch from Edinburgh very kindly undertook 
 the duty of officiating minister. His sermon was a touching one, 
 and most appropriate to the scenes and memories attached to ancient 
 Egypt — where Moses grew to man’s estate, “ learned in all the 
 wisdom ” that so well became “ the son of Pharaoh’s daughter.” 
 Temples and palaces — gorgeous in ruin and decay — that mighty 
 Lawgiver had seen — long ages past — with all their pomp and splen- 
 dour to attract the worldling’s eye. And yet he chose “to suffer” 
 rather than to sin — true antetype of Him, who freely left His loving 
 Father’s throne, and died upon the Cross, our fallen race to save. 
 
 Monday , January 'list. — The rats continually annoy us very 
 much. They long have ceased to be enticed by traps we brought 
 from Cairo, and neither will they venture into any others. Lord 
 Aberdeen was good enough to lend us one, and also Mr. and Mi’s. 
 Brooke ; but quite in vain, they are too cunning to be caught so 
 easily. This morning was entirely devoted to visiting the antiquities 
 of Luxor. The Temple, once so beautiful, was built by Amunoph III. 
 and Baineses II. Of two red granite obelisks — famous throughout 
 “ the wide, wide world ” — but one remains here now. The other was 
 
LUXOR. 
 
 119 
 
 removed to Paris by the first Napoleon, and stands — an aged captive 
 in a foreign land. Both obelisks are covered on every part with 
 hieroglyphics — cut in some places two inches deep — most 
 admirably designed and wrought. Close behind these, on either side 
 the pylon, appears a once fine colossal statue of Baineses II., seated ; 
 but much of them is buried in the sand, accumulating round their 
 bases year by year. The pylon towers display fierce battle scenes, 
 with figures large in size and graphically drawn; while in the very 
 midst of modern Luxor, whose wretched mud-built dwellings completely 
 spoil the temple in its whole extent, is a third sitting statue — quite 
 similar to the other two — of Bameses II. Besides some miserable 
 hovels, the central court contains a mosque for prayer, and all the 
 rest of its wide area serves as a public granary ; two rows of reeded 
 columns form the surrounding peristyle. Within the covered portico, 
 Mustafa Agha has contrived to make himself a very comfortable 
 abode ; and the French Vice-Consul, Monsieur Monier, has been 
 allowed to place a hideous whitewashed structure above the Temple 
 Sanctuary. However, it may be hoped this sad disfigurement is for 
 temporary uses only. Li a large garden near at hand, a house is 
 now erecting as a residence for this same gentleman. The sanctuary 
 was entirely cleared of sand and rubbish, by order of the ruling 
 Pacha ; and its dark inner chambers, richly adorned with sculpture 
 on their walls, are some of them supported by tall columns. An 
 old stone quay, immediately behind the temple, bears evidence that 
 great changes have occurred in the Nile’s course at this particular 
 spot, since its construction. We saw some valuable antiquities for 
 sale, belonging to the Prussian Vice-Consul, but prices asked for the 
 best specimens were really too exorbitant. In this collection was a 
 beautifully painted mummy-case — the mummy lying closely swathed 
 within — fresh as when carried by the weeping mourners to its rocky 
 tomb, perhaps two thousand years ago. After dining early on board 
 
120 
 
 KARNAK — THEBES. 
 
 our boat, wc accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Edward 0. Douglas in a very 
 pleasant moonlight donkey ride to Karnak. We were quite a merry 
 party, with our noisy train of lantern-bearers ; and stern in their 
 solemn grandeur seemed those stupendous temple-ruins, while — awed 
 by such unearthly magnitude — we gazed and wondered at that silent 
 hour. All traces of the noble avenue of Sphinxes — so proudly 
 joining Great Karnak to Luxor — will soon entirely have disappeared; 
 what yet remains looks grim and warlike as one passes by. We rode 
 back quickly, for the air was rather cold ; and before returning home , 
 we stayed some time with Mr. and Mrs. Douglas in their dahabeeh. 
 
 Tuesday , January 22nd. — Left “ La Gazelle ” at nine a.m., 
 and rode beyond the Theban Plain to ruins of an inferior temple — 
 behind the more important one of Medinet Haboo — retaining traces 
 of rich sculpture, much defaced and quite devoid of interest. We 
 passed remarkably fine sheep, with long straight pendent ears, and 
 wool most beautifully curled, whether of black or brown. The soil 
 is highly cultivated, and would readily support — from its extreme 
 fertility — an immense population under favourable circumstances ; 
 for the same ground now yields abundantly three different and 
 successive crops within the year — such as Indian corn, barley, 
 wheat or dliura. Prom the small temple I have just mentioned, our 
 guide conducted us to a very ancient Coptic church, where service 
 is still regularly performed. A large stone cistern, used when 
 baptizing grown-up persons, stands in one corner. Pacing this 
 cistern is an iron boiler, to provide warm water for the baptism 
 of infants only. At one end of the church, a rude-shaped altar has 
 been placed — merely an earthen table, without anything upon it, or 
 the least attempt at ornament. An ill-made Avooden reading-stand 
 is in the centre of the aisle ; and down one side a screen of solid 
 stone, concealing the apartments of the Coptic priests. We were 
 received to-day by one of these — next to their '.bishop in degree — 
 
. 
 
 
 IRE liBRMIt 
 SE TIE 
 
 - -/ • 
 
 
 
 
 
 
THEBES. 
 
 121 
 
 a tall and rather handsome man, though neither bright nor dignified, 
 lie wore the* usual Arab dress, with the authorised black turban 
 that belongs to Copts in general. From thence we wandered 
 onwards, to the tombs of Egyptian Queens. The best of them 
 contains the corpse of Taia, wife of Amunoph III. Its walls are 
 still profusely decorated with hieroglyphics, and other paintings, 
 tolerably preserved. The king and queen are both portrayed, in 
 presence of Amun Ee, and votive offerings are depicted in forms 
 not very easy to distinguish. The tomb of another queen, close to 
 that of Taia, we also entered; but paintings there are even less 
 distinct, although apparently the same in detail. The aid of candles, 
 was of course required, these deep hewn rocky sepulchres being all 
 quite darje. The dismal valley where these royal tombs are found 
 is pierced through its whole length by mummy pits ; thousands of 
 which yawn wide, and have been long since rifled ; while many more 
 may yet remain unopened. Pieces of human form — black, charred, 
 and horrible — he strewn around to such extent, one is continually 
 compelled to tread upon them. My husband drew, without much 
 difficulty, a female mummy from a pit ; the heels . were beautifully 
 rounded, the head and face almost uninjured. Near to the entrance 
 of this valley we saw two sculptured caverns ; their best depicted 
 
 4 \ 
 
 group portrays a mother, bringing her infant to present him to the 
 ruling god. Next came the temple Dayr-el-Medeeneh, “so called,” 
 Sir Gardner Wilkinson informs us, “from having been the abode 
 of early Christians.” The vestiges of carving which remain upon the 
 portico are all extremely beautiful ; and at the left side of the inner 
 court is seen a window, still entire, with three stone mulhons, and 
 sculptured masks above them. Then, we scrambled up a steep 
 ascent — within the valley Dayr-el-Medeeneh — to the mouth of an 
 enormous mummy cave, down which my husband ventured, with great 
 fatigue and trouble. Within this sunken pit were twenty-four small 
 
122 
 
 LUXOR. 
 
 chambers, each leading from the other, and all quite full of ghastly 
 mummies, unbroken or in scattered fragments. The ground beneath 
 his feet gave way at every step ; and clouds of human dust filled the 
 already stifling atmosphere, and seemed to choke up every pore. 
 The bright painted sarcophagi are mostly fractured and destroyed; 
 and shreds of coloured cloth thrown carelessly aside, prove of them- 
 selves how diligent has been the search for buried treasures. Near 
 to this common grave of long forgot Egyptians, my husband saw 
 to-day a much more splendid tomb, and which I also hope to 
 explore to-morrow. We had a pleasant ride back towards the river, 
 through the Theban plain, leaving the two great Vocal Statues far 
 on our left — seated together, side by side — majestically dignified. 
 Of all the wonders of antiquity which mighty Thebes — once “ of a 
 hundred gates” — can yet display, none has a charm for me like 
 these grand twin colossi of two thousand years — decayed, but truly 
 noble in their hoar old age. 
 
 We dined to-day at Luxor — a party of nineteen English and 
 American travellers — with the British consular agent, Mustafa Agha ; 
 who entertained us with an excellent dinner — served tout a fait a 
 I'Arabe; without plates, knives, or forks, and accompanied by the 
 usual washing of hands before and after eating. The numerous 
 dishes came and vanished in succession — of these the most remark- 
 able was a fat lamb roasted whole. Our host attended carefully to 
 everything that passed ; but he would on no account consent to join 
 us at the feast, since to do so would be contrary to Eastern etiquette. 
 We sat in two large circles on the floor, where carpets had been 
 neatly placed around each well filled tray — itself a foot above the 
 ground. The ladies visited the hareem after we had taken coffee ; 
 a little turbaned boy of nine or ten years old — Mustafa Aglia’s 
 son — gravely preceded us with lighted candles, walking slowly 
 backwards. Ilis most melancholy mother stood ready to receive her 
 
TIIEBES. 
 
 123 
 
 guests ; surrounded by her girls and infant boys, her sister, and a 
 niece. The pretty Sitteh Mustafa had not yet laid aside her mourning 
 garb ; she wore a black and gold Jcuffieh on her head, bound with 
 a golden band, immensely long gold ear-rings, and several showy 
 bracelets, very full white petticoat trowsers, and a tunic of black 
 gauze, with handsome gold sprigs beautifully embroidered, or nicely 
 woven into it. The sister’s costume was precisely similar, but red 
 instead of black; she has already lost the sight of one eye from 
 ophthalmia, and too probably will soon become stone blind. Even 
 the youngest children were dressed just like their parents, clad in 
 garments hardly suited to their tender years. We twice went through 
 the customary salaam with each member of the hareem , and then 
 returned on foot to our respective daliabeelis. 
 
 Wednesday , January 23 rd . — Our first and most important act 
 to-day was hastening early towards a tomb, within the valley Dayr- 
 el-Medeeneh ; where my husband had already been, and thought 
 so fresh and beautiful, that he promised I should see it also. By 
 his assistance difficulties were easily surmounted ; and danger there 
 was none to fear, except from suffocation. My broad brimmed hat 
 was taken off, a black crape veil covered my head and face, and 
 over that a large silk handkerchief. A long white shirt, drawn 
 over my other clothes, confined the head gear closely round the neck, 
 and was itself tied at the ankles with a piece of cord. Two of our 
 Arab sailors held at each end a good stout rope — on which I sat, and 
 seized high up with both my hands — while gently lowered to the 
 bottom of a pit, eighteen feet deep ; another Arab having previously 
 descended to catch me if I fell. I then lay flat upon my face, and 
 crept down like a serpent through two narrow holes in quick succession, 
 on a steep incline, each aperture being eight feet long and twenty 
 
 inches square. The inner hall — within the excavated rock is 
 
 built of brick, cemented with a coating of the purest white ; and 
 
124 
 
 THEBES. 
 
 brilliant colours, still quite fresh and perfect, were laid on and arranged 
 by no unskilful hand. This exquisitely-painted chamber measures 
 twelve feet six inches long, seven feet six inches wide, and eight 
 feet from the floor to the top of its arched roof. On either side 
 appears the god Osiris, hawk-headed ; boats, with their sails and 
 oars; jackals — guardians of the dead; figures of women kneeling; 
 a man beneath a lofty palm tree, prostrating himself in prayer, with 
 his face bent to the ground ; and a child within an apple tree, 
 handing fruit to his young companion. A small passage, six feet long, 
 and two feet six inches in width — a jackal painted at each side — 
 leads from this hall into a rocky cavern, rude and unadorned. Every 
 intermediate space upon the walls of the sepulchral chamber and 
 adjoining passage is ornamented with minute artistically finished 
 cartouches and spirited hieroglyphics, and the ceilings are wrought 
 with admirable skill in chequered work of elegant design. At first, 
 this tomb was opened by order of Mohammed Ali Pacha ; but was 
 closed again soon afterwards, that so valuable a relic might be preserved 
 from wanton injury, or greedy mutilation. Last year this splendid 
 mausoleum was discovered for the second time by the diligent researches 
 of a French antiquarian. Ascending safely from the pit was a more 
 arduous affair, both to me and my conductors, than the lowering 
 had been. Its entrance was of no great width, but all around the 
 edge afforded most uncertain footing to the men who held the rope, 
 and they naturally did not wish to run the risk of filling in. This 
 rather bold adventure ended, we sped away to Medinet Ilaboo — 
 where are remains of two old temples one behind the other. Sir 
 
 Gardner Wilkinson tells us that “ the ruins of Medinet Ilaboo arc 
 undoubtedly one of the four temples mentioned by Diodorus ; the 
 other three being those of Karnak, Luxor, and the Memnonium, or 
 first Eemeseum.” One court within the larger edifice was made 
 into a church by very early Christians. We ascended to an upper 
 
TIIEBES. 
 
 125 
 
 chamber — part of the temple-palace of Eameses III. — commanding 
 an extensive view over the wide-spread plain ; with its river boundary 
 — the only sign of life we could perceive — Karnak and Luxor on the 
 eastern bank, objects most grand and interesting themselves. A north- 
 east wind blew coldly and with force, although the sun was powerful. 
 My Theban donkey-leader is a little girl, called Fatmeh ; sharp-witted, 
 active, and robust, but very cunning and importunate for backsheesh. 
 
 Thursday , January 24 th. — Fine crops of barley and of millet 
 are both in ear upon the Plain of Thebes ; and water-wheels and 
 shadoofs were busily at work as we rode along this morning towards 
 the two colossi. Mounting the still half-buried pedestal of the more 
 eastern statue, we sat some time to rest at his enormous feet. Alas ! 
 no vocal music issues now from that gigantic form — which once 
 rose sixty feet in total height — to hail with sweetest melody the 
 golden beams of sunrise ; as we are told they sang. Close by 
 some scattered ruins of a large sized temple may be seen ; but all 
 thrown down and level with the groimd. The temple-palace of King 
 Eameses II. — or “ Memnonium ” — is generally the first ruin visited 
 on this western bank. Its noble pylons, first and second courts, a 
 spacious hall and numerous inner chambers, are still in great part 
 standing and complete. The fine interior peristyle, with Osiride 
 pillars, was once adorned by two black granite statues of the famous 
 king, to whose heroic memory this splendid fane was consecrated. 
 The sculptures are instructive illustrations, and most admirably 
 executed ; chiefly depicting battle scenes, where different nations 
 are engaged in strife, and various modes of ancient warfare very 
 spiritedly portrayed. Then come armed warriors returning home 
 from victory ; long lines of captives ; receiving spoil and tribute, 
 and sacrificing to the gods, who reward great Eameses by gift of 
 sword and sceptre, Thoth meanwhile noting down the monarch’s 
 mighty deeds. A third colossal statue of Eameses II., seated upon a 
 
1 20 
 
 TIIEBES. 
 
 throne, the hands resting quietly on his knees, lies now in shattered 
 fragments round its pedestal. This stupendous monument of Egyptian 
 sculpture — wrought from a single block of Syenite granite — weighed, 
 we are told, upwards of eight hundred and eighty-seven tons ; and 
 was brought hither finished from the quarry near Assouan — one 
 hundred and eighty-eight miles distant ! Hence to the tombs of 
 Kournet Murraee. We entered what our guide assured us was the 
 best of these great catacombs, and found their paintings wonderfully 
 fresh, and very valuable as descriptive drawings. Here is portrayed 
 a giraffe ; long-horned cattle ; processions ; a king seated upon 
 his throne, and attended by the sceptre-bearer, who also carries a 
 large fan or parasol ; a queen, in her chariot drawn by a pair of 
 oxen ; slaves ; soldiers ; and a mixed multitude of indescribable 
 figures. The ceilings — as in most other Theban sepulchres — are 
 elaborately painted in a chequered pattern, and edged beneath the 
 arch by an ornamental cornice. There are two pictorial chambers 
 in this tomb ; and also an inner apartment, with the surface of its 
 walls cemented and made smooth, quite ready to receive the drawings 
 which were never even traced upon it. We could not easily emerge 
 into the open air, from the tiresome importunities of Arab vendors 
 of spurious antiques — it is very rare to find good specimens of really 
 ancient idols, scarabsei, or vases, sold openly by day to travellers — 
 the Viceroy always laying claim to “ treasure trove ” in Egypt. The 
 interesting tombs of Sheikh Abd-el-Kourneh are excavated in a hill 
 not far behind the great “Memnonium.” The first of those we 
 entered was probably of some distinguished goldsmith, judging from 
 suitable representations clearly portrayed therein — accompanied by 
 vivid pictures of different festive scenes. One of the largest sepulchres 
 had been converted into a dwelling, by Sir Gardner Wilkinson 
 and Mr. Hay, for their own temporary use ; and adjoining this, we 
 saw what was certainly the tomb of a noted agriculturist. Within 
 
TIIEBES. 
 
 127 
 
 another cavern is a mummy pit, deep sunk in the centre ; four statues 
 arc together at one end ; and near the entrance a man is fishing. 
 In the next tomb are numerous oxen treading out the corn. 
 Another, on a much higher level, contains a festal scene, where 
 dancing-girls are introduced ; while the hall or chamber leading out 
 of that, presents a splendid burial procession, and weighing good 
 against all evil acts of the deceased. The funeral car is drawn by 
 four stiff oxen ; women and children are lamenting ; boats are 
 plying to and fro. Some parts, never finished, are merely sketched 
 in outline, black or red. A garden, well laid out and planted, fills 
 up one side entirely, and makes a pleasant change from gloomy 
 subjects. Close by, a handsome tomb displays a dairy, very spiritedly 
 depicted, where people are seen measuring the milk, and pouring it 
 with care from one vessel to another; and we particularly remarked 
 the unusual — if not unique — occurrence of a drove of pigs and 
 boars, to complete a farm yard stock. Lower down, there is a 
 spacious cavern supported by six columns ; and here our sailor, 
 Ramadan, my cautious and attentive guide, stumbled and fell among 
 the rocks and stones. He frightened us, until we knew he was not 
 hurt ; a fall must needs be terrible to witness wherever yawning 
 pits, deep sunk and “ full of dead men’s bones,” leave but a narrow 
 sloping shelf between them. By far the best and most important 
 of the tombs of Sheikh Abd-el-Kourneh, has long been occupied as 
 a house by Arabs; and thence its painted walls are sadly spoiled, 
 and blackened everywhere with dirt and smoke. Occasionally, it is 
 difficult to trace the really beautiful and graphic drawings with 
 which each part abounds. Sometimes, indeed, red outlines only can 
 be seen, all ready for the skilful artist’s hand to finish them in detail. 
 Within the second chamber, sculptors are working two gigantic 
 statues, and the colossal figure of a sphinx. Here also are depicted 
 cabinet-makers, rope-weavers, and the whole process of making bricks. 
 
128 
 
 THEBES. 
 
 In the outer room long processions of men and women are bringing 
 rich and costly presents to the Egyptian king — Thothmes III., 
 contemporary with Moses, the wise and learned say — although the 
 brick-makers represented here are not of Israelitish race, as some 
 suppose ; but they belong to other countries, mentioned by name 
 upon these sculptured walls. A funeral, a fruit and flower garden, 
 and a brilliant festival, are all delineated in this once gorgeous tomb. 
 The last cave that we visited was covered with bas-reliefs , beautifully 
 cut and in excellent preservation ; but their details offered no variety, 
 except the figure of a bear. After many hours’ exertion, we gladly 
 descended to the plain ; our practised little donkeys threading then- 
 way most cleverly down the honey-combed and steep hill-side. A 
 portly village Sheikh passed by us, riding a fine horse himself ; albeit 
 his ragged escort, on eight small donkeys, seemed a ridiculous 
 attempt at grandeur, to those who do not know the “whys and 
 wherefores ” here. 
 
 Friday , January 2b th . — Once more we crossed the Theban Plain 
 — to visit other sepulchres — those of the Priests and of the Assasseef. 
 Leaving the two colossi and the Menmonium ruins on our left, we 
 passed an ancient archway built of brick. Within the first tomb 
 we entered, is seen upon its walls a sculptured sphinx ; and a great 
 pyramid, in close proximity, suggests the notion that Ghizch’s marvels 
 must be thereby intended. My husband went into another tomb 
 near this one, crawling through four dark apertures, extremely narrow 
 and inclining downwards — each passage rather more than six feet 
 long — connecting four sepulchral chambers, scarcely worth the pains 
 he took to reach them. We next saw a large tomb where many 
 different operatives are at work. People appear busily employed in 
 making shoes, spurs, carriages, furniture, earthen jars, and idols. 
 Men are weighing heaps of money ; and carpenters, with hammers 
 and mattocks in their hands, are building a large boat. From 
 
TIIRBES. 
 
 129 
 
 lienee we explored the interior of an immense cavern with nineteen 
 chambers, all quite dark ; and the air so poisoned by smell of bats, 
 we could hardly endure the dreadful stench and suffocating closeness. 
 Six columns, formerly supporting the Hall of Entrance, have been 
 entirely destroyed ; but of four others, originally standing in the 
 second chamber, three yet remain unbroken. In one apartment 
 opens wide a mummy pit ; of whose vast depth we had no just 
 conception, until our guide threw into it a piece of lighted paper. 
 Pleasant it was at last to leave this odious charnel-house, and breathe 
 a wholesome atmosphere again. The temple sepulchre of Dayr-el- 
 Bahree is not far from here ; giving the earliest instance, yet discovered 
 in Egypt, of a stone-built arch ; and this locality is now alive with 
 Arab workmen, clearing a large and very splendid tomb for the 
 French antiquary, Monsieur Mariette. Three spacious chambers are 
 already excavated, and several very curious idols and other specimens 
 of old Egyptian pottery found within them, have thus been brought 
 to light. Two lateral rooms — one on each side the central chamber 
 — have also been discovered. Some of the sculpture is quite spoiled 
 with smoke and terribly defaced ; but much of it is fortunately still 
 fresh, and very easy to distinguish. In one place is a little child, 
 sucking the udder of a cow ; elsewhere, men are transplanting trees ; 
 boats upon the Nile ; fish swimming in the water ; soldiers ; piles of 
 money ; a cow standing under a palm tree ; a giraffe ; and scales for 
 weighing. The tomb Lord Dufferin opened, a few years ago — 
 and which contained a fine white marble statue, a sarcophagus, and 
 other valuable antiquities — is closed at present. Lastly, our guide 
 directed our attention to Old /Toorneh, near the west bank of the 
 Nile — a Temple-palace once most beautiful — Hall of Assembly to 
 ancient Thebes — and “ dedicated,” says Sir Gardner Wilkinson, “ to 
 Amun, the Theban Jupiter, by Osirei, but completed by his son, 
 Eameses II. the supposed Sesostris of the Greeks.” The entrance 
 
 K 
 
130 
 
 KAUNAK. 
 
 into this temple is first through a noble pylon into a dromos , or 
 court, one hundred and twenty feet long ; and then through a second 
 pylon into another dromos of similar length. Above the doorway 
 of a lateral chamber, are placed two finely sculptured sphinxes — 
 crowned. The new canal from Erment runs past Old Aoorneh, and 
 when finished will doubtless be a great advantage to the country 
 generally. Lords Carnarvon and Sandon arrived to-day at Luxor, and 
 have gone forward on their voyage to Assouan. The wind is in their 
 favour, but it blows almost a hurricane. 
 
 Saturday , January 2 Qth. — Last night was very stormy, and a 
 cold north wind continued blowing until late this afternoon. We 
 started early for Karnak ; and passed, about half-way from Luxor, 
 some evaporating cisterns — made of brick, and very shallow — used 
 for extracting nitre from the earth. We saw two handsome dark 
 fleeced sheep, with manes like those of Hons, browsing in a field 
 together near our path. Karnak should not be visited by moonlight 
 only. Those grand and venerable ruins demand the full ordeal of 
 a daylight view. Part of their surface has been cleared of rubbish, 
 and excavations are in progress, beneath the oldest portion of the 
 Temple area, by order of the Viceroy, Said Pacha ; restoring day by 
 day some priceless long lost object of remote antiquity ; and of these, 
 one striking instance is a large red granite sphinx, hawk-headed, 
 and quite perfect — but destined for a French museum. The 
 sculptured friezes, walls, and columns, to be seen in every part of 
 Karnak, are all most deeply interesting, wonderfully varied in detail, 
 and beyond imagination numerous. In one place, two male figures, 
 with vases in their hands, are pouring some liquid — emblem of life 
 — over the head of a king. On different walls appear long processions 
 of captives — many of whom are supposed to be Jews — and women 
 earnestly interceding for their lives. There is also a furious battle 
 scene, gigantically proportioned, introducing a spirited representation 
 
LUXOR. 
 
 131 
 
 of a closely besieged city. Four tall red granite obelisks adorned 
 Karnak in ancient times — two only remain standing now — their apex 
 forms an angle like a sharp cut pyramid, graceful and clear against 
 that bright blue sky. The ceiling of the Temple sanctuary is of 
 granite, cased with sandstone. Successive monarchs, eager for renown, 
 vied with each other in exalting Karnak. Paintings — still quite 
 perfect, and rich in brilliant colouring — are as beautifully varied 
 as any of the sculptures. The stonework of the grand Temple 
 gateway — in which the gudgeon for its ponderous hinge was fixed — 
 alone, was built of granite ; while all the rest being sandstone, and 
 of course less durable, these two are separating with the lapse of 
 time. 
 
 On our return to Luxor, we visited the Coptic Bishop, in company 
 with the American missionary, Eev. Mr. Lansing. He received us in 
 the Church — a small neat building — where, strange to say, we sat 
 on chairs before the altar, while we talked and drank our coffee. The 
 schoolmaster, a young Syrian from Beyrout, was also present. The 
 Bishop is in very feeble health ; but when he speaks, a pleasant 
 smile fights up his aged countenance. He has hitherto shown favour 
 to the Protestants, zealously assisting them in establishing an Arab 
 school here ; and even allowing Mr. Lansing to preach constantly, 
 in this same church, to the Copts ; of whom there are at Luxor about 
 one thousand souls, half the population — the remainder being entirely 
 Moslem. This sect of Christian worshippers practise no auricular 
 confession ; though prayers and invocations are offered to the Virgin 
 Mary, and to many saints held in especial reverence. Above the 
 altar — like those in other Coptic churches, half hidden by a screen — 
 is an antique painting of Saint Paul and Saint Antonio, upon a gilded 
 ground. There are also two prints of the Virgin and Child ; and an 
 oil portrait, representing La Madonna Dolorosa pierced with many 
 daggers. The Bishop’s residence adjoins the church, and is built 
 
 K 2 
 
132 
 
 TIIEBES. 
 
 within the same enclosure. We ascended to his little parlour by 
 a steep flight of steps. The room itself is light and cheerful, simply 
 furnished with divans against the plastered walls, a table, and a 
 set of bookshelves ; but — from open unglazed windows — towards 
 the north, a fine view may be had the whole day long of Karnak 
 and the Nile. A quarto volume, bound in vellum — a very neatly 
 written Arabic manuscript — had, from an unlucky accident, been 
 sadly injured and defaced by wet. The Bishop showed us a few 
 Arabic Bibles — some of those brought out to Egypt by Lord 
 Aberdeen — from the London Foreign Bible Society. We asked 
 here for a key of the Protestant cemetery, which was readily lent 
 to us. A whitewashed wall surrounds this space of ground — a 
 melancholy spot — and not one tree or shrub relieves its dreary 
 quietude. Mr. Lansing kindly gave me two Coptic sacramental cakes, 
 in size like small flat buns, and stamped on the top. They are 
 soaked in wine when given at the Holy Communion, priests having 
 always a larger share than the laity. At Karnak, I was so fortunate 
 as to purchase, for a mere trifle, a very curious old porcelain ring 
 — found among the ruins — with a well-cut scarabceus in the centre. 
 Mustafa Agha has often valuable antiquities for sale ; his museum 
 may be seen within a tomb at Sheikh Abd-el-Kourneh. 
 
 Sunday , January 21th. — The wind has much fallen, and the 
 temperature is now delightfully warm again. The Bev. Mr. Lansing 
 did duty on board our boat this morning ; and our little congregation 
 amounted to fifteen persons, including Mr. and Mrs. Bidgway and 
 IIon ble . Miss Boscawen, who arrived at Luxor yesterday. Lady 
 Aberdeen most kindly led the singing, as before. The sermon dwelt 
 at large upon the different nature and degrees of sorrow, as evinced 
 at various periods in the life of David, King of Israel ; and “ written 
 for our learning” — that we “weep as though we wept not.” The 
 clergyman’s reading-desk was nothing more than a divan cushion, 
 
THEBES. 
 
 133 
 
 laid upon the cabin table, with our “ Union Jack ” spread over it. 
 At three r.M. we moved lower down the river, and anchored opposite 
 Karnak. As we sailed past the Consulate, we duly lowered our 
 flag, Mustafa Agha firing a salute. Towards evening we strolled 
 along the sandy western bank ; great heaps of limestone, white as 
 snow, lay near the water ready for removal. 
 
 Monday , January 28 th. — An hour and a half’s brisk ride across 
 the Theban Plain — alternately through cultivated ground and tracts 
 of barren desert — brought us within that gloomy defile, so sternly 
 grand, known to all travellers at once by name — Valley of the Tombs 
 of the Kings. Sand, rubble and calcareous earth, with only here 
 and there soft limestone rock, compose its steep acclivities ; and 
 nothing that has life appears from end to end of this most dismal 
 gorge — through which we rode two miles perhaps, and then 
 dismounted. Scrambling laboriously for a while, we came to an 
 opening in a rocky precipice — the tomb of Raineses IX. Here 
 are represented boats ; fines of prisoners ; cartouches ; a priest offering 
 libations to the god; a figure of the queen, with a lotus flower in 
 her hand; the king presenting to the god a bowl, with a small 
 deity standing in it ; pigs or boars ; monkeys ; the body of a man 
 with the head of a goat ; rows of men worshipping or offering 
 sacrifice to the moon, and rows of females occupied in exactly the 
 same manner. A very extraordinary figure is depicted upon the 
 ceiling, and extends over its entire length — with two feet attached 
 to each leg ; two hands to each arm ; and two heads, each looking 
 a different way. The god Typhon is also portrayed upon the ceiling, 
 as well as several hawk-headed deities. A small-sized sarcophagus, 
 hewn in the rock, stands in the middle of the outer hall. In the 
 third chamber is a boat, with a boar and two monkeys in it. Tomb 
 of Rameses TV. — The walls are sculptured with representations of 
 the king, and of the presiding deity ; mummies ; hieroglyphics ; and 
 
 K 3 
 
134 
 
 TIIEBES. 
 
 rows of prisoners, whose heads have been struck off and tied behind 
 their backs. The sarcophagus is very beautiful, remaining in its 
 original place within the inner chamber ; it is quite covered with 
 hieroglyphics, still perfectly distinct and fresh. Tomb of Kameses VII. 
 
 — In the hall of the sarcophagus, is a sculptured figure of the child 
 Ilarpocrates, sitting within a winged globe. Belzoni’s Tomb. — This 
 is much the largest, and by far the most magnificent of any of these 
 kingly sepulchres. Exquisitely wrought sculpture, and paintings in 
 the highest state of preservation, are seen upon the walls of an 
 almost endless succession of chambers and passages. The details are 
 various and spirited ; one hall depicting scenes of warfare ; another 
 religious ceremonies ; a third portrays long rows of captives — while 
 the regal victor, attended by his scribe and court dignitaries, receives 
 in state the spoil of vanquished enemies. All these numerous 
 chambers are supported by elaborately painted columns; and their 
 deep blue ceilings are gorgeously studded with golden stars. Many 
 of the drawings were left unfinished, their outlines being cut out 
 ready to receive the colouring ; and in several places there are 
 blanks upon the walls. King Zithis occupied tliis splendid tomb, 
 and not Osirei, as was at first supposed. The finding his sarcophagus 
 
 — hidden for above three thousand years — was, indeed, a prize to 
 poor Belzoni, who sold it to Sir John Sloane afterwards for £3000. 
 Tomb of Rameses V. — falsely called “ Tomb of Memnon,” by the 
 Romans. This ancient sepulchre is chiefly remarkable for the unusual 
 regularity of its plan ; although richly adorned with sculpture and 
 painting, many of the ceilings representing astronomical subjects of 
 great interest. Tomb of Pthahmen, son of Rameses II. — Close to 
 the entrance appears a most beautiful and elaborate piece of sculpture 
 • — the kingly occupant of the tomb himself, standing before the god 
 Ra. Bruce’s, or “ The Harper’s ” Tomb — burial-place of Rameses HI. 
 
 — This cavern is particularly interesting from the great variety and 
 
THEBES. 
 
 135 
 
 multiplicity of subjects, depicted within a series of small chambers, 
 leading from the first and second passages, and which give a very 
 clear idea of Egyptian manners and pursuits in olden time. Trades, 
 costumes, arms, musical instruments, agricultural and other tools, 
 household furniture and utensils, stand out in brightest colouring 
 on the different walls. On the left is a well-drawn kitchen scene — 
 for the most part quite uninjured — groups are engaged in slaughtering 
 oxen, and cutting them in pieces ; while others cook the meat in 
 various ways — make soup — knead bread or cakes, and take them 
 to the oven. Some men, by means of syphons, are drawing 
 liquid from enormous jars. Within a chamber opposite, boats may 
 be seen, painted and ornamented with taste and skill ; their sails 
 are square in form and chequered. Next is a room displaying arms 
 and warlike implements alone. Sir Gardner Wilkinson remarks, that 
 “ the blue colour of some of the weapons suffices to prove them 
 to have been of steel, and is one of several strong arguments in 
 favour of the conclusion that the early Egyptians were acquainted 
 with the use of iron.” An adjoining room contains many drawings 
 of elegant sofas, chairs, tables, baskets, vases and rich drapery; 
 none but a highly polished people would have thus cleverly combined 
 such perfect symmetry of form with real comfort and convenience. 
 The next room teems with agricultural scenes ; ploughing, sowing 
 and reaping corn, and irrigating the ground. Then comes a chamber 
 covered with various representations of the god Osiris. The next 
 to this is generally devoid of interest — containing merely some 
 mysterious emblems, and several long-forgotton deities. Within 
 another chamber there are geese and quails, eggs, grapes and 
 larger fruits, herbs and vegetables — below all these are numerous 
 figures of the god Nilus. In the succeeding chamber are rudders 
 of boats and a great variety of sacred emblems ; while in the last 
 room we visited are those two blind “ Harpers,” from which the 
 
TIIEBES. 
 
 136 
 
 tomb derives its usual name. They play on harps of very graceful 
 shape, before the god Ao, or Hercules, Moreover, a sweetly musical 
 and full-toned echo resounds through all these lateral chambers, 
 especially at this side the corridor. Each chamber had originally a 
 pit — now closed — and we are left to fancy whether certain of 
 the royal household may not have been interred in them, their 
 separate graves distinguished by pictorial designs. The sarcophagus 
 of granite was removed from hence — many years ago — by Mr. 
 Salt. Tomb of Peteah-se-pthah — “ who seems to have reigned ” — 
 says Sir Gardner Wilkinson — “ in right of his wife, the Queen 
 Taosiri, as she occurs sometimes alone, making offerings to the 
 gods, and sometimes in company with her husband.” Beyond the 
 staircase is a male figure holding a papyrus roll, to which a black 
 seal, and a red one also, are attached ; and within a lateral chamber 
 on the left we saw a mummy lying on a bier, attended by the 
 god Anubis, while underneath stand vases of the four infernal 
 deities. In the first vaulted hall are seen a great variety of objects 
 — expressive of good taste and ingenuity — boxes, chairs, metal 
 mirrors, arms, fans, necklaces and other ornaments. The sarcophagus 
 remains in situ — though sadly broken — its lid still bears the figure 
 of the king, in bold relief; this mausoleum has never been entirely 
 completed. Tomb of Osirei II. — This sepulchre was also left 
 unfinished ; and the only part of it that claims the least attention 
 is a group of figures — finely sculptured in relief — close to the 
 entrance. The monarch wears a handsome girdle round his waist, 
 of most elaborate pattern, upon which are wrought two cartouches 
 of beautiful hieroglyphics ; the clasp, a lion’s head — from whence a 
 tassel, made of five snakes, hangs low in front. Every tomb we 
 have explored to-day — with few exceptions — contains a drawing 
 of its general plan, dimensions, and successive stages of descent. 
 Months might be profitably spent within these royal catacombs, 
 
DENDERA. 
 
 137 
 
 even were other objects left unseen. Again we rode through, that 
 same defile, where dead Theban kings — borne to their splendid 
 mausolea — passed by with grandest pomp in days of yore ; and 
 then, threading our way among thousands and thousands of mummy 
 pits, rifled and unrifled, we ascended a short steep hill to the little 
 village of Aborneh. Here our intelligent guide has “ his habitation,” 
 literally “ among the rocks ; ” he is a “ small farmer,” by the bye, 
 and owns a tract of land. This place commands a wide extended 
 view of Thebes, with Karnak in the distance; but our chief aim 
 in going there, was to see a workshop of a noted fabricator of 
 spurious “ antiques ” — who openly pursues his craft, and deems it 
 fair and honest all the while. On the plain below, a boy brought 
 a live scorpion on a stick to show us ; it was apparently three inches 
 long ; fortunately, they are not common hereabouts. A Coptic 
 bishop — not our Luxor friend — was visiting Lord and Lady 
 Aberdeen, when we took leave of them this afternoon. Regretfully, 
 at half-past four p.m., we left the western bank; there was a haze 
 all around, and we too speedily lost sight of Thebes. The evening 
 calm brought us quickly to the village of Negadee — peopled almost 
 entirely by Copts. Lord Londesborough’s dahabeeh has just anchored 
 for the night — ten p.m. 
 
 Tuesday , January 21M. — We did not linger at Negddee ; hard 
 rowing, and what little wind there blew, aided the downward 
 current in our favour. Indeed, we heard with great surprise this 
 morning, that Aeneh had been reached by four o’clock. We thought 
 the sky portended rain ; but, in Egypt, who can believe so sad a 
 casualty ! Betimes, we crossed the Nile in our small boat, and rode 
 — about an hour — to Dendcra ; through very rich and cultivated 
 ground, bearing fine crops of wheat and barley, beans, lupins and 
 sweet peas. The presiding goddess of the temple here was Athor, 
 or Aphrodite, represented by a hawk • — emblem of Horus — within 
 
138 
 
 DENDERA. 
 
 a house. But Dendera should be visited in going up to Thebes, 
 before one learns to prize the really beautiful in art of far more 
 ancient days. And yet we must admire this splendid building too 
 — so imposing in its general effect, and nearly perfect in preservation. 
 The whole of its vast interior — down to the pavement — was very 
 lately quite cleared of rubbish, by order of Said Pasha. On either 
 side the pylon, the figure of a priest is sculptured in relief, holding 
 in one hand a sacrificial knife. The portico — we learn from a 
 Greek inscription — was added during the reign of Tiberius Ccesar, 
 to the original edifice ; it is supported by twenty-four grand columns, 
 their square-shaped capitals bearing at each side the broad colossal 
 face of Athor, with a small pylon for her head-dress. On the ceiling 
 of the portico appears that famous zodiac, which caused so much 
 discussion among learned antiquaries. The sign Cancer is depicted — 
 as at Esne also — by a scarabams, and not a crab. The lofty hall 
 and central chamber are completely covered everywhere with 
 sculpture. Their massive columns — carved all over in quaint figures 
 and hieroglyphic tablets — stand each upon an ornamental base, 
 raised from the floor upon a plain square platform ; their capitals 
 display two heads of Isis, with drapery festooned between them ; 
 and also tablets representing Athor, nursing her infant son. A 
 staircase, leading to the roof, is still almost uninjured, and the walls 
 are rich in varied bas-reliefs. A sort of model temple — four pillars 
 at each side — stands like a plaything on the roof ; from whence, 
 in fine clear weather, a most extensive view may doubtless be 
 obtained ; but rain fell fast when we were there, and a thick haze 
 had gathered all around. We thought the exterior sculptures were 
 more graphically drawn than those within the temple hall : they 
 principally refer to Athor, the goddess who was chiefly worshipped 
 here ; and there are hideous portraits of the celebrated Cleopatra ; 
 and of her son Ptolemy Cajsarion — heavy in outline, and very badly 
 
JTENEII. 
 
 139 
 
 executed. We took skelter in a ruined building, said to have been 
 the abode of priests in former times — where sculptured figures of 
 Typhon, god of Darkness, make a strange frightful cornice to the 
 central room. At the entrance, on the jamb, two staves are carved 
 — emblems of power, with a goose’s head on each of them — held 
 close together by a pair of hands. We waited here until our patience 
 was exhausted, hoping the rain would cease. Immediately behind 
 the temple is a smaller building, called — by Strabo — “ Chapel of 
 Isis ; ” where may be seen the figure of a cow — before which, it 
 is said the Sepoys prostrated themselves, when our army came to 
 Egypt. Uneasily, and rather slowly, we retraced our steps, for the 
 ground was wet and slippery. We saw some of those white-feathered 
 birds, so frequent in this country ; who carefully attend the sleeping 
 crocodile, and pick out any insects that may settle in the monster’s 
 gaping jaws. How wonderfully does God provide for every creature 
 His almighty hand has formed ! “ Consider the fowls of the air . . . 
 
 your Heavenly Father feedeth them.” 
 
 Fortunately the afternoon was tolerably fair, and we walked — 
 at least a mile — through deep soft sand to Aeneh. We wished to 
 see the potteries a second time, and found them going on as busily 
 as ever. The earthen jars and porous water-bottles are left for two 
 days baking in a kiln ; and the whole process, from beginning to 
 end, is simple and expeditious as one can possibly imagine. Large 
 lumps of clay — ready kneaded with cold water, and mixed in right 
 proportion with the half eh grass — were given to a workman, seated 
 on the ground before a horizontal disc, or wheel, which he turned 
 rapidly with his foot, and who, by amazing quickness and dexterity, 
 shaped the earthenware according to his fancy at the moment. In 
 making bottles — k ullehs, they are called — their neck is always added 
 when the globe has been completely formed. Aeneh ’s bazaars are 
 not at all attractive, or in any manner well supplied. 
 
140 
 
 TIIE NILE. 
 
 Wednesday , January 30/4. — The rain fell heavily a great part 
 of last night, but ceased at dawn of day ; unhappily the wind blew 
 “ right a-head.” We started early, enveloped in dense fog for several 
 hours ; our men were rowing hard, and the small sail was spread 
 to steady “ La Gazelle ” a little, for she rolled tremendously. The 
 waves rose higher and higher, and by eleven a.m. the dahabeeli was 
 obliged to stop. Now, we have reached a village on the eastern 
 bank, twenty-five miles from /teneh, where a fair or market has 
 been held to-day ; and we took a short and very windy walk on 
 shore, wliile ferry-boats crossed the broad river to and fro, laden, 
 from this side, more heavily than appeared quite safe — with men 
 and women, children, flocks and herds, baskets and bundles, packed 
 in close company together. The air feels raw and chilly hi our 
 cabin, although, late this evening, the thermometer stood so high as 
 60° Fahrenheit ; and the sun set dull and cloudily, looking more 
 like a cold pale northern moon, than the glorious golden orb of a 
 bright Egyptian day. 
 
 Friday , February 1st. — We remained at anchor the whole of 
 yesterday, and still the wind continues sharp and adverse ; but 
 notwithstanding such bad weather, a start was made at half-past 
 five a.m. ; the sailors did their best, and yet, by ten o’clock, we 
 could proceed no further — the vessel rolled so very much, and the 
 Nile was tossed and agitated into frothy sealike waves. After sunset 
 came comparative calm, and we have passed by How to-night. The 
 men’s supply of bread is failing, and we must arrive at Girgeh 
 soon, if possible, for flieir sake. 
 
 Saturday , February 2nd. — The north wind freshened again at 
 an early hour this morning, and we have advanced but very slowly, 
 moving sideways down the stream, and rolling more unpleasantly 
 than ever ; but the sun shines out quite cheerfully to-day, and 
 the atmosphere feels certainly much warmer. We passed Bellianeli 
 
GIKGF.TI. 
 
 141 
 
 before five o’clock, and arrived at Girgeh about nine r.M. Abydus 
 may be visited from either of these places. We ourselves went 
 thither on our former journey, landing at Bellianeh. It makes 
 generally an agreeable half-day’s excursion ; but, in fact, those ruins 
 
 — before 1857 nearly buried in the sand — were scarcely worth 
 the trouble of a donkey ride to see them. The temple-palace of 
 the first Osirei, now uncovered, is said to be unrivalled throughout 
 Egypt for the extraordinary beauty of its sculptured bas-reliefs ; the 
 whole, so worthy Kameses the Great, who ably finished what his 
 father had begun. Here, at Abydus, stood the ancient city This, 
 it is supposed ; the capital of Upper Egypt for many centuries before 
 her mighty rival Thebes was known. “ No, that was situate among 
 the rivers.” 
 
 Sunday , February 3rd. — A warm and most delightful day ; 
 soon after morning prayers we walked all through the town of Girgeh 
 
 — including the miserably poor bazaars of this once provincial capital. 
 Most of the older buildings he in ruins, and are mouldering fast 
 away ; while parts of the crude brick modern wall seem still in very 
 good repair. Some of the houses, too, look comfortable outside, and 
 have neat rows of pottery, bordering their upper stories in a rather 
 tasteful pattern. Large quantities of indigo are every year produced 
 in this locality ; the next expected crop has been already sown, but is 
 not yet sprung up. We saw the place where men prepare the indigo 
 for exportation. The plant is thrown into a copper cauldron, and 
 boiled most thoroughly in water — the vessel set within a circular 
 furnace, and the flame allowed to pass quite freely round it. The 
 indigo must be reduced entirely to a pulp by boiling, and then removed 
 into enormous earthen jars, placed ready for that purpose near at 
 hand. Next, it is pounded with a wooden pestle, and afterwards 
 transferred to other jars, where it is left to stand some days. 
 When thus the colouring matter has precipitated to the bottom, a 
 
142 
 
 ALABASTER WORKS. 
 
 little wooden peg — which is put into a hole midway down the jar 
 — is taken out, and all the water drained entirely off; the indigo, 
 left now in cake, requires no further preparation, and may at any 
 time be sent to Europe. Boats, loaded with corn, are moving very 
 slowly down the river, containing also wmdf-scaled earthen jars, filled 
 with honey, butter and castor-oil, to be profitably sold in Lower 
 Egypt. 
 
 Monday , February Ath. — We hailed most thankfully a fair and 
 lovely morning — the Nile as calmly smooth as any inland lake. 
 Leaving Girgeh at half-past five, we passed Sookag — where the 
 Pacha is erecting a large palace to the northward — and came to 
 anchor for the night at eight o’clock. 
 
 Tuesday , February 5 th. — Started before daylight, with a perfect 
 calm; but unexpectedly a strong and adverse wind sprung up at 
 sunrise, when we were passing under Gebel Shekh Hareedee, and 
 Eeis Osman dare not run the risk of damaging our iron boat, by 
 pushing through that rocky narrow channel against a contrary breeze ; 
 thus, “ La Gazelle ” was safely moored, on the more sheltered western 
 bank at eight p.m. By three o’clock this afternoon, our thermometer 
 stood at 66° Fahrenheit, and the air felt very chilly. Just before 
 dark, we struggled three miles lower down the river — grounding 
 midway, but soon afloat again. 
 
 Wednesday , February 6th. — Less wind than yesterday, but still 
 blowing keenly from the north ; however, we were fairly “ under 
 weigh ” by four a.m. At five o’clock this evening we passed the 
 port of Siout — El-IIamra — and landed on the opposite shore, to see 
 a place where the Egyptian alabaster is worked — quarried in tire 
 neighbouring mountains, and sent from hence, already dressed, to 
 Cairo. Within a brick enclosure we saw some handsome capitals 
 for columns, and several square pedestals, carved with star and crescent 
 very neatly. Close by are beautiful acacia and tamarisk trees ; and 
 
SHEKI1 ABADEII. 
 
 143 
 
 further on, there is a splendid grove of DOm and feathered palms. 
 Six pelicans were diving for a fishy supper near the western 
 bank. 
 
 Thursday , February 7 th. — Ice had encrusted over the vessel’s 
 spars last night ; and Paolo says he does not recollect a similar instance 
 of excessive cold, during any previous winter of his thirty years’ 
 continued travels on the Nile. We started about five o’clock this 
 morning, and were off the town of Manfalout a little past eleven a.m. 
 Towards noon we came beneath the snow white cliffs of Gebel Shekh 
 Aboofaydee — the thermometer in our cabin stood at 60° — and a 
 sharp adverse wind requiring careful vigilance, we made but slow 
 and weary progress. The rocky caverns of this mountain are a 
 favourite resort of wild ducks ; and when my husband fired his rifle 
 at them, the echo there was wonderfully grand and long continued. 
 Two crocodiles had taken quiet possession of a wide-mouthed cave ; 
 one lay, apparently asleep, within the opening, while his huge comrade 
 kept faithful guard outside. We cleared the northern point of this 
 stem craggy range by four o’clock, when the wind freshened most 
 unpleasantly ; but all the eastern bank was gay and pretty, from its 
 bright green fields, its numerous villages, and graceful shady palm- 
 groves. We were at rest by seven p.m. ; and then three travellers’ 
 boats passed quickly, upward bound — two bearing British flags, and 
 one the French. 
 
 Friday February 8th. — At six a.m. we left our moorings; 
 and at ten o’clock, the thermometer stood so low as 52°. This 
 day was calm, but still the wind continued contrary. At four p.m. 
 we walked on shore at Shekh Abadeh — Antinoe of Eoman times 
 — a truly royal monument — built by the Emperor Hadrian, in 
 memory of his favourite Antinous, who was drowned accidentally 
 near this very spot ; and the far-famed Oracle of Beza may probably 
 have been located here, as some historians suppose. The ground 
 
144 
 
 RODA. 
 
 of a great Roman amphitheatre can be clearly traced — including 
 dens for wild beasts, and chariot courses — and amphora, quite 
 perfect, have just been disinterred — old writers say this building 
 was a hippodrome ; while large hewn stones, and a few broken 
 columns, lying here and there, are as yet suffered to remain 
 in situ. Extensive sandy mounds, and heaps of fractured stone- 
 work, bricks and pottery, with vestiges of a magnificent theatre 
 or temple, whose now prostrate columns were once adorned 
 with rich Corinthian capitals, attest the former size and 
 
 splendour of Antinoe. Directions of main streets, which crossed 
 
 each other at right angles, are marked distinctly to this very 
 day. Close to the river’s bank he several granite columns, and 
 deep substructions of a smaller temple. We saw an ancient 
 public bath in most extraordinary preservation ; constructed 
 of burnt bricks with an enormous quantity of strong cement 
 between them. Numbers of dirty women and half savage-looking 
 children, bringing old coins and worthless bits of glass or stone 
 
 to sell, had quite sufficient vanity to deck themselves in silver 
 
 coins and trumpery ornaments, despite their ragged clothes and 
 
 very filthy persons. We crossed the Nile to Roda — passing two 
 Prussian travellers’ dahabeehs — and went to see a sugar factory 
 there, the property of Ismail Bey. The German superintendent 
 of this large establishment was extremely civil, and gave us 
 
 every information we desired. A Frenchman has been lately sent 
 here to assist in all the duty, and share responsibilities ; for 
 
 when the new erections are completed, the produce, it is fully 
 
 thought, will be at least eighteen hundred tons of sugar, instead 
 of the five hundred tons yearly obtained at present. Fifteen 
 
 hundred men and children, employed here now, are paid in 
 
 daily wages, varying from a dollar to one piastre and a half. The 
 canes arc crushed twice between great iron rollers, driven by a 
 
R0DA. 
 
 145 
 
 powerful steam engine, and their refuse answers admirably for 
 fuel. The coal consumed within this sugar factory is brought 
 out from Newcastle, costing exactly 21. 4,9. per ton. In taste, the 
 juice, while cool and fresh, is excellent ; although, by its intoxi- 
 cating nature, a little dangerous to take in any quantity. Corrugated 
 iron, required for roofing the buildings, came hither from Newcastle ; 
 cast-iron moulds, and every part of the machinery, were also sent 
 direct from England. From the crushing rollers, all the liquid runs 
 into a trough, made of cemented brick ; then it is boiled in copper 
 cauldrons, and poured into conical shaped moulds of earthenware or 
 iron ; the latter, thought to answer best, are painted red, and always 
 newly coloured every year. These moulds are perforated at the 
 bottom, a small round hole allowing the molasses to trickle slowly 
 into earthen jars beneath. A piece of fire-clay, about an inch 
 in thickness, is laid upon the top of each full mould, in order 
 to exclude all air and keep away the flies. As by degrees this 
 fire-clay hardens, it presses down the sugar in a solid mass, and 
 thereby forces down whatever of molasses may be yet remaining. 
 After thus standing for a certain time, the sugar-loaves are hard 
 enough, and ready to be taken from their moulds. The residue 
 of molasses, that has not passed through the holes, remaining in 
 thick sediment, generally four inches deep, is immediately cut off, 
 and sent with all the rest to the adjacent rum distillery. Our 
 cicerone told us the molasses here was very strong and disagreeable 
 in flavour. Preparations are commencing to erect a large distillery 
 on a much improved and quite a modern plan. Finally, the 
 moulded sugar is packed with care in barrels, and sent by boat 
 to Cairo ; where, if made whiter, it must be boiled again, and 
 filtered once or twice through charcoal. By the new process, 
 instead of boiling juice in copper pans, with furnace heat, it will 
 be done entirely by steam. A melancholy accident occurred last 
 
 L 
 
THE NILE. 
 
 146 
 
 week, from a man falling headlong into a great hot cauldron ; 
 and who died next day, of course in dreadful agonies. Eventually, 
 this factory will be lighted up with gas, but not until the buildings 
 are completed and in proper working order. Three good pumping 
 engines are in constant operation, for irrigating land, and daily fur- 
 nishing the establishment with a necessary amount of water. Deeply 
 interested by all we saw to-day, on either side the Nile, we were 
 fairly “ under weigh ” at half past five p.m. ; our ever ready crew 
 put forth their wonted energy, as they merrily sang strange songs, 
 and rowed with all their might, till we arrived at Beni-Hassan. 
 Contrary winds have detained us longer en route than we antici- 
 pated ; we visited these sepulchral caves before, and therefore shall 
 
 not land here in the morning. The grottoes are, indeed, most 
 
 curious to every traveller, who desires an insight regarding ordinary 
 trades, amusements, and domestic manners of the earliest Egyptian 
 times ; especially as Sir Gardner Wilkinson pronounces them to be 
 of a date anterior to those of any excavated tombs at Thebes. 
 They are all adorned with paintings, wonderfully fresh in colour, 
 and vigorous in descriptive detail ; exquisitely drawn upon the 
 smooth white walls, coated with lime cement. Some of the oldest 
 columns represent the stalks of water plants — lotus and papyrus 
 — bound tight by cords together, with a lotus bud to form their 
 
 capitals. Other columns are beautiful in extreme simplicity, one 
 
 portico being by antiquaries considered the true original prototype 
 of Grecian Doric architecture. 
 
 Saturday , February 9th. — Quite calm this morning ; but the still 
 adverse wind increased almost to a gale by noon, and we progressed 
 so very slowly, that Paolo and Eeis Osman ordered the “jolly-boat;” 
 wishing to land at Minieh in advance, conclude some purchases, and 
 rejoin us by and by. Struggling laboriously until after sunset, we 
 anchored for the night, eight or nine miles to the north of Minieh. 
 
THE NILE. 
 
 147 
 
 Sunday , February 10 tli. — From a comparative calm when we 
 awoke, the north breeze gradually became violent, and the vessel 
 rolled much more unpleasantly to-day than yesterday. At an early 
 hour we passed by Gebel e’ Tayr, crowned by the Coptic convent 
 of Sitteh Mariam-el-Adra, from whence three squalid monks, frantically 
 rushing down the precipice, swam off at once towards our dahabeeh , 
 with loud discordant cries for charity. A very few paras were enough 
 to satisfy them ; and they sprang like wild goats up the steep mountain 
 side with astonishing activity and fearlessness. It was a great relief 
 to rest at night near Aboo-Girgeh, after being tossed about so long, 
 and feeling thoroughly uncomfortable. 
 
 Monday, February 1 1th. — We are most grateful for a perfect 
 calm all day, and have made unusual progress. A gaily painted 
 steamer, with two chimneys — large sized for the Nile — passed 
 upwards at eleven o’clock ; it is the pleasure yacht of Ismail Bey. 
 This evening is indeed most lovely ! The stream flows on without 
 a ripple ; and the cold wind, of late so troublesome, has nearly died 
 away. A pale new moon peeped timidly at sunset, her outline very 
 faint, but clearly marked upon the cloudless sky. We did not stop 
 at Beni-Soef, but came to anchor ten miles to the northward. 
 
 Tuesday, February 12th. — A fine starlight night has been succeeded 
 by a delightfully warm day ; and we now advance quite speedily, 
 the air refreshed by a soft gentle breeze. Each hour denotes our 
 gradual approach to Cairo ; an increased population, much more 
 activity, and a greater show of wealth and comfort, prove that the 
 capital is near at hand. Long before sunset, we distinctly saw the 
 pyramids of Dashoor and Sakkara — shrines of the mighty dead ! 
 — no learned antiquary can yet unfold their dark mysterious records ; 
 his dim small lamp of ancient history soon fades away and dies. 
 At nine o’clock, our dragoman called us from the cabin to see 
 some lofty trees upon the western bank, most beautifully reflected 
 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 MEMPHIS. 
 
 in the broad calm river, by the pure brilliant light of myriads of 
 twinkling stars — a sight we shall not easily forget — all nature 
 seemed so glorious, and serenely grand. We reached Bedreshayn 
 before ten p.m. 
 
 Wednesday , February 13 th. — This was another charming day, and 
 the cool light wind blew favourably to our progress from the south- 
 ward. Breakfasting betimes, we started very early for Sakkara. 
 People of both sexes, and of every age, were flocking to the weekly 
 fair at Bedreshayn, intent upon supplying simple wants, to these 
 untutored peasants ; all perhaps they need. We passed a common 
 pottery ; and much admired the many classically moulded jars of 
 different sizes, unbaked or ready for removal, that stood there. All 
 the alluvial soil is valuable here, and turned to profitable account ; 
 green fields of newly-risen corn-crops, sugar-cane, lupins, vetches, and 
 bright clover, everywhere luxuriant — smiling sweet praise to Him 
 
 “ Who filled the earth with food ; ” 
 
 and in an hour we reached the village of Mitrahenny, shaded by fine 
 palm trees — supposed to occupy a central portion of the site of bygone 
 Memphis ; from the very numerous mounds located chiefly there. 
 Little of interest, save old impressive memories, remains in sight, 
 at least, to attract the stranger’s eye ; beyond some granite fragments, 
 and substructions of several ancient edifices long ago destroyed. The 
 only relic of antiquity, really precious and remarkable, to be seen 
 at Mitrahenny now, is a colossal statue, carved in limestone, forty- 
 three feet high, of Rameses II., unfortunately broken ; lying prostrate 
 on its face, half sunk in marshy ground ; but the elaborate girdle 
 round the waist, and the beautifully chiselled features, are still in perfect 
 preservation ; portraying, we are well assured, one of those mighty 
 Pharaohs, — remarks a recent author — who “knew not Joseph,” 
 and who despised Joseph’s God. “The Pharaohs have perished — 
 
SAKKARA. 
 
 149 
 
 Memphis lias been swept with the besom of destruction — but God’s 
 Church and people still live to praise His name.” This gigantic 
 statue belongs, by right, to the British Museum ; but the great expense 
 of its removal has hitherto been considered insurmountable. Three or 
 four miles further, brought us quite to the Desert border of the rich 
 Nile valley, where stands the palm-shaded village of Sakkara; and 
 from thence we rode along the vast necropolis of Pharaohnic times, 
 a dreary labyrinth of deep sunk mummy-pits, and more patrician 
 tombs, where excavations yearly disinter those hidden stores of past 
 antiquity, that show us how the earliest Egyptians lived and died, in 
 plainer language than a written book could tell. Alas ! what countless 
 treasure, weary toil, and what artistic genius, were erewhile lavished 
 on these pagan sepulchres ! Within the last few years, an enterprising 
 French antiquarian, Monsieur Mariette, commissioned by the Egyptian 
 Government to excavate in this country upon a most extensive scale, 
 has enriched the learned world with very much that is of value to 
 those who diligently study ancient science, or boldly dive into historic 
 lore. He is now employed in opening a recently uncovered tomb ; 
 and several Arab workmen are busily preparing to raise a large 
 sarcophagus. But Monsieur Mariette’s most grand discovery is the 
 wonderful Serapium, or Catacombs of Sacred Bulls, unknown to 
 modern days ; although, each great sarcophagus being found quite 
 full of stones, in token of contempt, they probably were robbed of 
 all their Apis wealth by Roman hands, to which we must attribute the 
 numerous vestiges of brick-built walls and rounded arches, scattered 
 far and wide. A long approach leads gradually downwards to the 
 entrance of enormous subterranean galleries, hewn in the solid rock, 
 their general height and width is estimated at nearly twenty feet, 
 with chambers on a lower level at each side, containing huge sarco- 
 phagi ; all of fine granite, very dark, and highly polished — inside 
 and out — them whole exterior adorned with small and beautiful hiero- 
 
150 
 
 SAKKARA. 
 
 glypliics, finely cut in delicately traced intaglio. Three of these 
 immense sarcophagi — thirty-two have been discovered hitherto — 
 were subsequently removed from hence ; but probably there are 
 some other galleries yet to be explored. With one exception only 
 — perhaps that of a worshipped calf — they all appeared the same 
 in outward measurement : length, ten feet ; breadth, seven feet ; 
 depth, eight feet ; thickness of cover, two feet, that of both sides 
 and ends was exactly eighteen inches. The angles are particularly 
 sharp ; indeed, the workmanship is admirable, and altogether of 
 the very highest order. An ahnost supernatural effect was suddenly 
 produced by the unexpected appearance of a second group of travellers, 
 who slowly came towards us from an opposite direction, carrying 
 torches, like ourselves. Of course, to them we seemed a spectral 
 apparition also ; a fanciful renewal of the solemn, though degrading 
 funeral rites, performed by heathen priesthood in these dismal caves. 
 It is very difficult to explore the Ibis mummy-pits ; they too are rock- 
 hewn galleries, their vast interior divided into regular compartments, 
 like bms of a modern wine-cellar. The sacred bird — embalmed and 
 wrapped in mummy cloth — was put within a cone-shaped earthen jar ; 
 but I never heard of any one of them being opened, where the body 
 had not disappeared and mouldered into dust. How literally does 
 the Word of God refer to ancient Egypt ! especially as regards her 
 vaunted “ wisdom ” — her debased and gross idolatry. “ Professing 
 themselves to be wise, they became fools, and changed the glory of 
 the incorruptible God into an image made like to corruptible man, 
 and to birds, and four-footed beasts, and creeping things .” (Romans 
 
 i. 22, 23.) 
 
 We met several young peasant girls, with large sized water-jars 
 on their heads, to supply the Arab fellahin employed by Monsieur 
 Mariette ; a few Sakkara women wear plain silver necklaces, of 
 antique pattern ; and one or more rows of coral cylinders, with 
 
GHIZEH. 
 
 151 
 
 a round gold bead at equal distances, are worn by many others in 
 preference. Midway between the Desert and the village of Mitrahenny, 
 we crossed, by means of a frail causeway, simply made of earth, 
 upon a reed foundation, the canal that has succeeded to a very 
 famous one of bygone days, used for conveying water of the Nile 
 through ancient Memphis, to fill the celebrated artificial lake scooped 
 out by Menes ; and over which dead bodies were transported to the 
 cavern tombs and wide-spread cemeteries, that lay in all directions 
 far beyond. Our twelve miles voyage down the stream to Ghizeh, 
 occupied but three hours and a half; and we took a quiet stroll 
 on shore, along the western bank, while Paolo went to Cairo to hire 
 our rooms at Zech’s Hotel, and bring our newspapers and letters. 
 
 Thursday , February 1 ith. — We left the dahabeeh soon after 
 eight this morning, and riding quickly through the dirty little town 
 of Ghizeh, we first passed a large pottery ; and then saw several 
 flat circular stones upon the ground — like ordinary millstones, split 
 in two — which commonly are laid for drying corn. From thence 
 extends a pleasant shady avenue of fine acacia and tamarisk trees, 
 bordered by a neat straight watercourse of lime-cemented brick. 
 Wide tracts of cultivated land — far as the eye can see — are bright 
 in early verdure, and teem with the most luxuriant crops. We 
 crossed, by a rude causeway made of plastered reeds, a tolerably 
 broad canal ; and along the now dry beds of a few others, green 
 corn springs up abundantly. Within two hours, we reached the 
 well-known Plain of Ghizeh — site of Napoleon’s famous battle — 
 and found ourselves among the rocks and dry loose sand of the 
 great Libyan Desert. A steep but short ascent of the foundation 
 platform, and we stood once more beneath the wondrous Pyramid 
 of Cheops ; it is when actually on the spot — and only then — that 
 one can ever realise the awfully stupendous magnitude of that most 
 venerable and massive pile, or form a true idea of the vast space 
 
152 
 
 GHIZEII. 
 
 of ground it really occupies. Immediately beset by noisy Arab 
 guides, my husband went with some of them as far up as the entrance ; 
 where enormous blocks of limestone rest so slantingly together, as to 
 form a sort of pointed arch, and thus effectually support the roof of 
 the sloping narrow passage. We both felt unwilling to endure the 
 great exertion of mounting — for a second time — to the summit ; 
 a most fatiguing ordeal, and disagreeable in every way ; although, 
 of course, it must be done. Morning and evening, a fine and striking 
 view may, in clear weather, be obtained from the broken area 
 at the top — about thirty-two feet square — but this day’s atmosphere 
 was rather hazy ; and noon — when we were there — is not the best 
 hour for a distant prospect. The Arabs brought some curious fossil 
 shells for sale, found in the neighbouring mountains. The other 
 pyramids, however interesting, yield in importance to the unfathomable 
 sepulchre of Cheops ; and comparatively few travellers have had 
 sufficient leisure, or even inclination, to examine them. A little to 
 the southward, is a large and beautiful mausoleum, hewn in the solid 
 rock, lately discovered by Monsieur Mariette. Two or three 
 sarcophagi have already been removed elsewhere ; one yet remains 
 in its original place, deep sunk beneath the surface. This tomb 
 consists of numerous sepulchral chambers, all leading from a wide 
 central hall or court. We also saw, still further south — far below 
 the level of the ground — a small and perfect granite temple, recently 
 opened by the French Commissioner ; the interior columns, and their 
 architraves, are each a square-cut monolith ; while the three inner 
 chambers are constructed of horizontal blocks of alabaster and granite, 
 laid alternately. The middle court contains a well — apparently of 
 great depth — with purer water, it is said, than now flows in the 
 heaven sprung Nile ; so copious, too, that three days’ constant pumping 
 made no sensible diminution in the inexhaustible and ever bountiful 
 supply. A short but toilsome walk through drifting sand hills, 
 
BOULAC. 
 
 153 
 
 brought us close to the far-famed Sphinx — a truly noble monument 
 of ancient days ; in spite of all the ravages of time, and of that yet 
 more ruthless destroyer — man. Mutilated, decayed, and sand choked 
 — this grand colossal statue has never ceased to fascinate. Sculpture, 
 gigantically proportioned, here combines — in monstrous, human- 
 headed, lion form — expressive of tremendous strength and power — 
 life-like vitality, with an almost breathing sold, — supremely good, 
 benevolent, and wise. 
 
 Eeturning towards our dahabeeh , we passed through several lofty 
 palm-groves. Each separate tree is subject to taxation, all over Egypt ; 
 but is, nevertheless, considered a valuable possession — and not un- 
 frequently a narrow trench is dug around a single palm-tree, to retain 
 sufficient moisture at its roots. At intervals, we have seen — to-day 
 and yesterday — black tents of Bedouin Arabs in the distance, pitched, 
 two or three together, at the very outskirts of the sandy Libyan 
 Desert, and quite remote from any town or village. At one p.m. we 
 left the bank at Ghizeh for Boulac, the wind blowing contrary. 
 Before three hours had passed, and having only eight short mdes 
 to go, we safely came to anchor in mid-stream — much fearing to 
 approach the shore, and thereby add more rats to our increasing 
 colony. When hiring boats, or anything besides, in Egypt, it is 
 always most essential to remember, that thirty days — invariably — are 
 reckoned to each month, inclusive even of “ short-coming ” February. 
 With feelings of extreme regret, we have now, for the last time, 
 dined on board our comfortable “ Gazelle ; ” and then my husband 
 went immediately to Cairo, hoping to find a few more letters at the 
 Post Office and British Consulate. He brought sad news of certain 
 other travellers, whom we had previously met at Zech’s Hotel. A 
 Mr. Cave had accidentally been drowned in a vain attempt to swim 
 unaided through the eddying rapids of the First Cataract, and his 
 body has not yet been found ; while, just before this melancholy 
 
154 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 event, an English lady — young, and very lately married — died in 
 her daliabeeh , of fever, and was buried at Assouan, not many 
 hours afterwards. When at Luxor, we heard a story of two gentle- 
 men — fellow-voyagers on the Nile — one of whom soon fell a victim 
 to consumption. His friend, wishing the corpse to be respectably 
 interred at Cairo — but loth to leave his own tour unaccomplished — 
 had the dead body regularly embalmed — a modern Egyptian mummy ; 
 and putting it with proper care into a coffin, he dutifully kept it 
 with him in the boat, until his journey ah through Upper Egypt 
 was completed to his satisfaction. Ismail Bey is at present building 
 two exceedingly handsome dahabeehs at Boulac ; and “ La Clothilde,” 
 now waiting for a re-engagement, hes 6nugly moored to the eastern 
 bank. 
 
 Friday , February 15 th. — We arose in very cheerless mood this 
 morning, at the idea of parting with our good Arab crew ; who 
 seemed most grateful for their well-deserved backsheesh. My husband 
 also gladdened Reis Osman’s heart by giving him a letter of earnest 
 recommendation, and a book of coloured “Signals.” United words 
 of farewell and of thanks were loudly uttered as we stepped on 
 shore at Boulac. It was then eight o’clock ; and the streets were 
 thronged with men and women, carrying flat trays of bread upon 
 their heads, and donkeys, laden with full water-skins. The air was 
 buoyant, fresh and pure ; for the usual clouds of dust had not so 
 early risen. With speed we rode to Cairo, and entered Zecli’s Hotel 
 just as the* breakfast gong was sounding through the upper corridors. 
 Our rooms are all that we can reasonably expect, and much more 
 comfortable than they were before. Great preparations are every- 
 where in progress — triumphal arches, and various fanciful designs — 
 for a general illumination, in honour of the anticipated return of 
 Said Pacha from Mcdineh. His Highness left Cairo about two months 
 ago, intending to proceed as far as Mecca ; but he soon tired of 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 155 
 
 daily camel riding, and stopped short at Medineh. It may be very 
 easy for an Egyptian Viceroy to plead unwieldiness of frame, as 
 good excuse for non-fulfilment of a “Pious Pilgrimage”' — if such 
 was, indeed, the real object of this tedious Desert journey. 
 
 Saturday , February lQth. — At one o’clock — accompanied by 
 Hekekyan Bey — we started with a fixed intention to ride to Matareeh 
 — “On” of Old Testament history, and “ Heliopolis ” of Greek and 
 Boman times. Our route lay by the old canal, of Pharaohnic date, 
 which formerly went on to Suez ; and amid clouds of sand, blown 
 in our faces by a high north-east wind, we persevered most steadily 
 for an hour. A threatened shower prevailed, at last, to turn us back 
 along the Suez railway line to Cairo, hoping for better fortune on some 
 other day. Much heavy rain fell, for a short time, late this evening ; 
 we seldom have a downpour so determined in Old England. 
 
 Sunday , February 17th. — To-day, at our Church Service, was 
 sung my favourite hymn, “ Come, gracious Spirit, Heavenly Dove,” — 
 a prayer for every circumstance ; and yet how oft the Christian 
 should repeat it here! 
 
 Monday, February 18 th. — Hakim Burguieres Bey informs us, 
 that his new house upon the Shoobra road would very soon be 
 finished, did not the strict fast — Ramadan — unfortunately commence 
 within a fortnight ; and for the thirty days of its duration, an Arab 
 workman, good or bad, can never be procured. And now we are 
 preparing for our future travels ; my husband having a long interview 
 with Suleiman, a handsome Arab prince, of the great Alawin tribe, 
 required to make himself responsible for our safe conduct through 
 his territory ; with ’Mbarak, head sheikh of the Oulad Said — 
 belonging to the Sinaitic clan, To war a — and the only Arab of that 
 Desert tribe allowed, by ancient rivalry, to visit Hebron, vid Petra ; 
 this same ’Mbarak vowing — by the Prophet’s beard — to carry us 
 through dangerous Wady Musa — “ on his head ! ” 
 
156 
 
 MATAREEH. 
 
 We started, about noon to-day, once more for Matareeh, with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Edward 0. Douglas and Hekekyan Bey. Near the 
 Abbasseeh Palace, we turned off sharply to the left ; our general 
 route was varied, and in many parts extremely pretty. Eirst, after 
 leaving Cairo, came the vast sandy Desert ; and then some shady 
 avenues, with fresh green fields beyond them. A fine extensive 
 olive-grove — the only one I saw in Egypt — lay a short distance 
 from our path ; and we also passed large orchards, thickly planted 
 with all kinds of fruit trees — oranges and lemons in abundance, 
 ready to be gathered, and weighing down the branches. Very little 
 now remains of “On,” or “Heliopolis.” Two broken jambs — part 
 of a granite gateway — lie shattered into fragments on the ground ; 
 and one great obelisk still stands erect, surrounded by a rude-built 
 garden wall. Hekekyan Bey has spent much time in studying these 
 antiquities, and knows well how to explain their difficulties ; for the 
 late Mohammed Ah Pacha had especially commissioned him to 
 excavate at Matareeh. The result of his most interesting researches 
 will eventually, I hope, be published : a rich mine of valuable 
 information for the scientific world — and profitable, indeed, to every- 
 body. He supposes this now solitary obelisk was raised above five 
 thousand years ago; and prior to the Deluge — can that really be! — 
 while he has proved, beyond a doubt, a gradual sinking of the 
 monolith — twenty-four feet — within that lengthened period. The 
 faithful Abraham must have seen this very obelisk, when he came 
 to Egypt — and another standing near it — confronting the magnificent 
 Temple of the Sun. Hieroglyphics, much worn away upon its 
 western side, are nearly perfect on the other three. Wild bees have 
 made their honey in deep cracks and crevices — furrowed by the 
 touch of time, — inevitable wrinkles on the brow of age. 
 
 At Matareeh we visited a rich Armenian lady, widow of a Cairene 
 banker, who has just built a very spacious and agreeable mansion 
 
MATAR^EII. 
 
 157 
 
 for her residence. With kind and pleasing manner, she received our 
 party in a large “ upper chamber,” — a gallery rather than a room, 
 with latticed windows at each end. The furniture consisted of a 
 
 few small Persian carpets, and the usual cushioned divans. Here 
 
 we were hospitably entertained with pipes, coffee, and sherbet made 
 of cherry juice, all handed to us by a negro woman, dressed in 
 a neat pink cotton gown, and clean white apron. The pipes had 
 amber mouthpieces, set round with diamonds ; and the tiny coffee 
 zerfs were of dehcately- wrought silver filagree. Our hostess looked 
 still so young and pretty, we could hardly believe — making due 
 allowance for early marriages in Eastern lands, that a lady present, 
 and a little child fifteen months old, were really her own grand- 
 daughter and great-grandson. The nurse was seated on the divan 
 also, at a respectful distance, but did not speak to anybody. The 
 ladies’ shoes were thickly soled with wood, like those worn by 
 attendants in the public baths ; they had, moreover, a profuse supply 
 
 of showy rings, bright chains, and other jewellery. The lady of 
 
 the house, who generally conversed with Hekekyan Bey in the 
 Turkish language, said she intended soon to give a dance to all the 
 Bedouin families in her neighbourhood ; a well-judged act of wise 
 diplomacy, which Arabs always can appreciate, and those who study 
 their peculiar notions fully understand. We saw a pet gazelle, and 
 a wild ibex in the court below; the latter has long annulated horns, 
 turned backward, and long pointed ears ; its eye is very small and 
 deeply sunk, not large, full, soft and pensive, like that of the gazelle. 
 The venerable sycamore — beneath whose leafy shade the Holy Family, 
 tradition tells, once rested, bears evidence of a good old age in 
 the gnarled branches and great hollow trunk ; round which some 
 Greeks, to our dismay, held noisy carnival this afternoon. An ancient 
 well, from whence “ the young Child and his mother ” drank, during 
 their hasty flight to Egypt, is also shown by guides to every traveller. 
 
158 
 
 PETRIFIED FOREST. 
 
 Here grew tlie famous balsam trees, transplanted by Cleopatra from 
 the hot plain of Jericho ; from Matareeh they were removed to 
 Mecca, where only can this precious healing drug be now-a-days 
 procured. In returning towards Cairo, we passed the palace and 
 extensive gardens of the Viceroy’s eldest brother, Mustafa Pacha ; 
 but although our route was different, the time it occupied did not 
 vary in the least, nearly two hours each way. Hekekyan Bey gives 
 an admirable explanation of our blessed Saviour’s proverb, — “It is 
 easier for a camel to go through the eye of a needle than for a rich 
 man to enter into the kingdom of God.” There is often in the 
 East — as, indeed, elsewhere, a small wicket gate, made within a 
 very large one ; this is always called in Arabic by a term signifying 
 “ needle’s eye ; ” and for a loaded camel, as he walked erect, would be, 
 doubtless, an impracticable means, either of entrance or of exit. If, 
 however, the camel stoops quite low enough, he can pass through, more 
 or less easily. In like manner, a rich and prosperous man, in all the 
 pride of wealth and grandeur, can never enter by the “ straight way ” 
 into heaven ; but, if he humbly makes these earthly treasures 
 subservient to Almighty will, — seeking, “ first, the kingdom of God 
 and his righteousness,” — then, in truth, “all things are possible.” 
 Monday , February 1 9th. — A two hours’ ride to-day, with Mr. 
 and Mi’s. Douglas, into the Desert, to see a little of the Petrified 
 Forest. We left Cairo by the very fine old gateway, opposite the 
 once splendid tombs of the Caliphs ; the wind was rather high, but 
 the air so delightfully pure and invigorating we could not grumble. 
 I was certainly disappointed in the “ sight ” itself ; scarcely a single 
 stump remains upright ; but for miles and miles the uneven sandy 
 ground is thickly strewn with pieces of petrified wood, of every size 
 imaginable ; massive trunks of patriarchal trees, twelve or fourteen 
 feet long ; twisted branches, large and small ; and broken fragments, 
 some of which would bear a high polish, and are very prettily veined 
 
MUSEUM AT BOULAC. 
 
 159 
 
 and knotted. As we re-entered Cairo we met a party of the Alawin 
 Arabs ; handsome, haughty-looking men, although slight limbed, and 
 by no means tall in stature. The silversmiths’ bazaar is well worth 
 seeing ; each workman, seated by his own forge and tools, ingeniously 
 fashioning the precious metals, according as his present will or fancy 
 may dictate. The Pacha’s band played merrily in the Great Square 
 this evening. 
 
 Thursday , February 21st . — Ash Wednesday was a day, to us, of 
 rest and quiet. To our dismay, very unsatisfactory news has just 
 arrived regarding the Desert route through Wady Musa; smce the 
 four Bedouin sheikhs who rule near Petra — now, it seems, at deadly 
 strife among themselves, would rather lose the travellers’ tribute alto- 
 gether, than amicably share that money with the rival tribes. At any rate, 
 we mean to go as far as Akkaba, and on from thence direct to Wady 
 Musa — if possible. This afternoon we visited the Viceroy’s museum 
 of Egyptian antiquities at Boulac. These most valuable curiosities 
 have been chiefly, if not entirely, collected by the French Commissioner, 
 Monsieur Mariette. The statuary and bas-reliefs, bronzes, porcelain, 
 columns and friezes, tablets, mummies and mummy-cases, scarab ah, 
 idols, vases, papyrus rolls, altars and sarcophagi, would require volumes 
 of minute descriptive detail. The specimens of ancient gold and 
 silver jewellery are particularly beautiful, and in perfect preservation ; 
 with hardly an exception, they each combine extreme elegance of 
 pattern, with the most exquisitely delicate workmanship. The rooms 
 themselves are painted, in admirably appropriate taste — upon their 
 walls and ceilings, to represent the old Egyptian sepulchres. 
 Hekekyan Bey has himself most kindly made me a sectional drawing 
 of the granite obelisk at Matareeh, accompanied by a short account 
 of its age and history, in his own handwriting. 
 
 Friday , February 22nd. — This day we went to the Abbasseeh 
 Palace ; the Consul-General, with his usual kindness, having procured 
 
160 ABBASSEEII PALACE. 
 
 for us an official order to see the state apartments ; his private 
 secretary, Mr. Cohen, accompanying our party. But, on this occasion, 
 we obtained no admittance, as the palace keys are kept by some great 
 man at Cairo ; we therefore walked all through the spacious well 
 trimmed gardens, where not one single flower was to be seen ; 
 and the ground looked dry and parched, as though it never could 
 give nourishment again. 
 
 There is a Scotch physician now at Cairo, chief medical adviser 
 of the late Sultan Mahmoud, who died suddenly in the doctor’s 
 arms, a few moments after taking a small cup of coffee. There were 
 — and not unnaturally — very strong suspicions that the poor 
 Sultan had been poisoned ; and, in a little while, the wary gentleman 
 judged right well and prudently to leave Constantinople. Not the 
 very faintest shadow of a doubt was ever cast upon his character ; 
 but the chosen favourite of royalty must expect to make some 
 enemies. So many years have passed away since Sultan Mahmoud’s 
 death, that a return to Turkey now would involve no risk 
 whatever. 
 
 Saturday , February 23 rd. — The weather has to-day been quite 
 perfection ; and we have once more ridden to the Abbasseeh 
 Palace. A noble flight of broad stone steps, before the main door of 
 entrance, leads upwards to the portico ; but the whole exterior of 
 this really handsome building is painted a bright yellow colour, 
 which completely spoils the general effect. The rooms are all 
 magnificent ; and especially those allotted to the numerous hareem. 
 It is supposed this gorgeous palace will ultimately be purchased 
 by the present Viceroy ; much of the furniture has been already 
 sold to any one who felt disposed to buy it. One hardly can conceive 
 the possibility of more extravagant decorations than were lavished 
 here, in honour of the late Hamil Pacha’s royal bride, who never 
 even saw them, as events turned out. We had a pleasant walk 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 1G1 
 
 this evening in the Uzbe&eeh ; the large full moon shone brightly, 
 and the soft untainted air was most refreshing. 
 
 Sunday , February 2\th. — Our usual Church of England Service 
 in the morning ; and afterwards a Presbyterian minister, Eevd. 
 Mr. Bliss, residing usually at Alexandria — preached an eloquent 
 sermon at the American Mission House ; taking for his text, 
 Deuteronomy xxxi. 31 — “ For their rock is not as our rock, even 
 our enemies themselves being judges.” 
 
 Monday , February 2hth. — At the end of this great corridor, are 
 two or three curious little brown furred animals, called mongoos ; 
 continually creeping in and out of a small hole, made in the paved 
 floor on purpose for them. They are esteemed as indefatigable and 
 clever ratcatchers ; in size like common ferrets ; with sharp pointed 
 noses, and very long straight tails. General Valliant sent to Egypt 
 for some mongoos, when he was in India ; but, vice versa , Monsieur 
 Zech, from India had these useful creatures brought direct to Egypt. 
 At Mrs. Lieder’s house to-day, I saw the English nursery governess, 
 Mrs. Williams, who has charge of young Prince Toossoon. Her 
 powers of chastisement appear much greater than those allowed to 
 good Miss Cow, in educating Mustafa Pacha’s daughter ; and even 
 a whipping, when required, is not absolutely forbidden by the 
 Viceroy, as regards his pretty little son — between whom and his 
 instructress exists a warm affection ; and the Prince is always 
 particularly wishing to have something given him from England. 
 Hot long ago, it was announced to this kind-hearted widow lady, 
 that now the time had come when the poor child must leave the 
 hareem , and be consigned entirely to male tuition. In just reward 
 of her devoted care and services, the governess was offered either 
 land or money, whichever she preferred ; but Mrs. Williams, declining 
 these substantial proofs of gratitude, has only begged for one year 
 more, of training her beloved pupil ; a generous and reasonable 
 
 M 
 
1G2 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 request, which was — without a moment’s hesitation — granted. Her 
 salary is said to be £500 per annum ; besides, very frequently, some 
 valuable gift. Though rather plain in features, and too stout in 
 figure, her countenance expresses genuine good temper, and an 
 unaffected amiability of character. The Honble. Arthur H. Gordon, 
 with his travelling companions, Mr. Wood and Captain Moody, 
 last Sunday morning, attended early service at the Coptic Church ; 
 when, to their great surprise, a fine intelligent boy stepped 
 forward, carrying a Bible in one hand, and a lighted candle in the 
 other — a constant practice among Copts, while reading Holy 
 Scripture — and then he read aloud, with remarkable facility, and 
 perfect correctness of pronunciation, a whole chapter in the English 
 language from St. Matthew’s Gospel. This was intended as an 
 especial compliment to Mr. Gordon ; whose brother, the Earl of 
 Aberdeen, has been so zealously distributing the Word of God to 
 the Egyptian Christians. The new Coptic Church at Cairo, much 
 larger than the old one, but erected on its site, is very far from 
 being completed. The aged Patriarch, who appears to have gained 
 respect from everybody, died very lately ; and according to the ancient 
 custom, his corpse has been deposited in a vaidt beneath, arrayed 
 in priestly robes, and seated upright in a large arm chair ; thus to 
 remain unmoved, until the death of his immediate successor, who 
 is not yet appointed. 
 
 Tuesday , February 20th. — Tremendous cannonading from the 
 citadel at sunrise, announced the safe return of Said Pacha from 
 his “pilgrimage.” He landed on the pier at Suez, about midnight, 
 and speedily came on to Cairo. Until quite recently, his Highness 
 married one wife only — Ilengeh Khanum — originally a Circassian 
 slave ; and to whom he is said still to be devotedly attached. 
 She has no children ; Prince Toossoon being the son of a young 
 slave girl in the Princess’s hareem ; and until the circumcision fete 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 163 
 
 of this same child, his mother always was obliged to stand — crossing 
 her hands respectfully, like any other Eastern inferior — before her 
 royal mistress. But now, she is permitted to let her arms hang 
 down ; and has become the Viceroy’s second wife, although of rank 
 decidedly subordinate to that of Hengeh. Khanum — who herself, 
 having risen from a lower sphere to fill her present station, dare 
 not presume to take a seat in presence of her despotic lord, until 
 he condescends to give her leave to do so. Zenib Khanum holds 
 a position far less anomalous ; her husband, Kamil Pacha, was once 
 a favourite Memlook slave of the late Mohammed Ali Pacha, who 
 raised him to the dignity of a judge ; and as a still higher mark 
 of favour, had subsequently given him his own daughter in marriage. 
 Fabulous seem the accounts of costly furniture and priceless jewels 
 presented to this grand lady on her wedding day ; and she retains 
 her former name, having no son — the Oriental women generally 
 being designated as “mother of — ” Ora Ismail, Om’ Hamed, &c., 
 as the case may be. A large body of troops marched in procession 
 through the Uzbe&eeh to-day ; the bands of different regiments 
 playing quick and lively airs, with anything but harmony. These 
 soldiers had come early from the Barrage, to meet the Viceroy 
 at the railway station, and swell his military escort into Cairo. 
 Their nether garments were so travel-stained and dirty we quite 
 believed the first report — that all these men had been “ pious 
 pilgrims ” too. 
 
 This evening, accompanied our kind Consul-General to see the 
 really beautiful illuminations. The streets were densely crowded ; 
 and we remained in one spot stationary for at least an hour, 
 so tightly jammed it was impossible to stir an inch, and we 
 feared the carriage would be broken all to pieces, from extreme 
 outward pressure. Nothing, however, could exceed the very orderly 
 behaviour of the mob ; but it was useless to attempt to reach the 
 
SHOOBRA. 
 
 164 
 
 citadel ; so we escaped as soon as possible through deserted lanes 
 and byways, and drove back to the Uzbe£eeh, where many of the 
 best and brightest decorations could be seen ; and thence proceeded 
 to the Viceroy’s palace, Casa Nil, which was indeed most splendidly 
 illluminated. 
 
 Wednesday , February 27 th . — This afternoon, the Consul-General, 
 mounting one of his noble Arab horses, was good enough to ride 
 with us to Shoobra. The gardens are extensive, and admirably kept ; 
 while fruit and flowers, from every chine on earth, are cultivated, 
 by a most skilful English gardener, with well rewarded and successful 
 care. The numerous broad straight walks all radiate from centres, 
 and in several instances are over-arched with trellis-work. A secondary 
 attraction is the great Fountain Kiosk : here, an enormous reservoir , 
 edged by beautiful white marble balustrades, and containing water 
 four or five feet deep, is surrounded by a corridor, the columns 
 and carved mouldings made of fine Carrara marble. At each of 
 the four corners has been built a handsome room, with gilded 
 chandeliers, damask curtains, and luxurious divans ; the windows are 
 plate glass ; the polished floors and panelled walls, of wood most 
 tastefully inlaid. The ceilings are elaborately painted in various 
 designs ; upon one of them appears, in fresco , a likeness of the great 
 Mohammed Ali, whose full-length oil portrait hangs in one of these 
 apartments. There are mimic islands, gay with many flowers, on 
 this artificial lake ; and a pretty barge is always ready when the 
 liareem desire to make a cruise across this placid waveless little sea ! 
 We met a pleasure party in the Shoobra gardens — of Cairene Jews 
 and Jewesses, belonging to the higher class. One of the latter was 
 a lovely bride ; her dress was bright pink brocaded satin, her veil 
 of thick white gauze almost enveloped her tall figure ; but this she 
 very readily put aside, when we expressed a wish to see her face, 
 nor, to confess the truth, was she at all unconscious of her charms ; 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 165 
 
 the most remarkable of which was a complexion, delicately fair, set 
 off by sparkling diamonds that adorned her brow. We also saw a 
 young Circassian Memlook, fine looking and intelligent, one of 
 the household slaves of Hamil Pacha ; his jacket was nearly covered 
 with a rich embroidery, and round his neck he wore a chain of 
 gold and diamonds. The Prince, his master, is very fond of falcons, 
 and we observed several of them afterwards, before the outer gate 
 of entrance ; most of these knowing clever birds were closely hooded. 
 As we were leaving Shoobra, some Arabs brought a newly captured 
 wolf to show us, which they had muzzled, and were carrying in a 
 large cloth cloak. A carriage never proving a good conveyance in the 
 crowded thoroughfares of Cairo — and particularly unsuitable at present 
 
 — we traversed the iUuminated streets to-night on donkeys. This 
 very independent plan was found to answer all our expectations per- 
 fectly, enabling us quite easily to make our way up to the Citadel, 
 the broad approach to which was lined on either side by blazing 
 mesh' als — great torches bound with iron hoops, and fastened firmly 
 at one end of a long wooden staff, producing an admirably pic- 
 turesque and strangely wild effect. The spacious square within the 
 Citadel was beautifully lighted ; but far more brilliant and tasteful 
 than the rest, was the hareem portion of the building. We entered 
 the great Mosque, which did not look to much advantage ; the lamps 
 being few in number, and hung so very low, that nothing could be 
 seen of the really splendid dome, which by daylight must attract 
 universal admiration. The Viceroy now constantly resides at Casa 
 Nil ; and riding thither from the Citadel in less than twenty minutes, 
 we walked about the handsome square that opens on the Nile. 
 Comparatively, a small part only of this edifice can, with truth, be 
 called a palace ; it is more properly a commodious barrack. The 
 Suez railroad runs direct into the quadrangle ; to use a homely phrase 
 
 — bringing Said Pacha to his very door. Rather to our surprise, 
 
 M 3 
 
166 
 
 OLD CAIRO. 
 
 we saw his Highness comfortgbly seated at the end of his divan, 
 dressed all in white, having his feet rubbed gently by a kneeling 
 slave ; his private secretary sat a little distance on his left, and one 
 of the royal Pachas was seated nearer to him on the other side. The 
 door of this apartment was thrown purposely wide open, that every one 
 might gain a view of all that passed within — aided by innumerable 
 chandeliers, which rendered the minutest objects clearly visible. The 
 Viceroy is immensely corpulent ; no wonder he dislikes the tight and 
 heavy military uniform he is obliged to wear on certain state 
 occasions, much more agreeable does he find the white costume he 
 wore this evening, and in which so many of his best portraits have 
 been taken. From thence we crossed through bypaths to the railway 
 station on the Shoobra road, one of the prettiest displays of fight 
 I ever saw. By going on donkeys, we were able to pass along ' 
 the narrower bazaars ; that of the Turks was far more gorgeous than 
 any other, by reason of much taste and good arrangement in 
 setting out embroidery, and the gayest colours imaginable. 
 
 Thursday, February 28#A. — A dusty ride to-day, to see the 
 wonders of Old Cairo — curious and interesting to every archaeologist. 
 The Coptic Church contains a chapel underground, into which we 
 easily descended through a wide trap-door, each provided with a 
 wretched little taper, to explore the dismal dungeon, where tradition 
 says, the Virgin Mary, for a long time, concealed herself and infant 
 Saviour from the dreaded fury of the Roman legion. The ancient 
 church itself has formerly been handsome ; with its elaborately carved 
 screen, high pulpit, and quaint old portraits of Apostles and of 
 martyred saints, all with gold backgrounds ; and in every case, 
 the aureoles are very strongly marked. In the Jews’ Synagogue, 
 stands a plain altar tomb — that of some learned Rabbi of the olden 
 times. The elaborate framework of the pidpit, or reading desk, 
 covered with Hebrew characters, is a remarkably fine specimen- 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 1G7 
 
 of antique carving. Two or three steps lead up to the altar; and 
 here our priestly guide, who simply wore the usual Arab dress, 
 immediately produced the sacred parchment, containing the Mosaic 
 Law, secured within its case by lock and key, and carefully 
 unrolled a portion of the manuscript ; which is admirably preserved, 
 if really written twelve hundred years ago. This ancient roll, and 
 other books, are always kept behind the altar, hi a small curtained 
 recess. A chamber, leading from the synagogue — which one must 
 enter without boots or shoes — is “ Holy Ground,” because a copy 
 of the Pentateuch, two thousand years of age, is said to be 
 deposited therein. “ But,” our informant added, “ nobody is ever 
 allowed to see this precious relic ; even Sir Moses Montefiore was 
 refused a sight of it.” We held out no tempting backsheesh; but 
 contented ourselves with peeping from outside into a dark and dirty 
 little room ; with a curtain drawn across a portion of one wall, and 
 concealing — not even a recess , for anything we could perceive. Near 
 tills apartment is a large closet for the priests’ vestments, full of shelves 
 and ponderous iron chests. The Mosque of Amer, at Old Cairo, is, 
 I believe, supposed to be of earlier date than that of Sultan Tooloon ; 
 and must have been magnificent hi its day, as the noble court still 
 amply testifies. There is literally a forest of plain pillars, with 
 wonderfully varied capitals, giving an extremely fight and elegant 
 appearance to this fast decaying pile. Close to the Caaba , we were 
 shown a marble pillar — black and white granite — brought here 
 from Mecca. In this once splendid mosque are several double 
 columns ; and two of these, no one can now tell why, have been 
 selected as a certain test, whereby may always be discovered, whether 
 the sins be great or small, of every individual, who rashly tries to 
 force his or her way between them ; truly a hard squeeze for anybody, 
 however innocent, or slightly formed. 
 
 While preparing for the table d' hate, I received a little note from 
 
168 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 Madame Vaucher, written from the Viceroy’s hareem , hastily, and 
 with a reed pen, requesting me, with speed to make my toilette , 
 and drive up to the hareem at the Citadel. Quickly dressing, I drove 
 off in an open carriage through the streets ; which were lighted more 
 brilliantly than ever, on this last night of general illumination. 
 Fortunately for my progress, the crowd was much less dense than 
 on either of the two preceding evenings, and all being perfect good 
 humour and decorum, as before, there was indeed no difficulty in 
 proceeding onwards. I alighted at the great gate of the hareem ; 
 passed through — what appeared, at least — an entire regiment of 
 tall black eunuchs ; one of whom, more gaunt, I thought, than any 
 of the rest, at once came forward, and seemed to take me in especial 
 charge, until I reached the entrance of an iimer court, where I was 
 handed over to another dreadful looking eunuch ; but a few minutes 
 afterwards, a pretty slave girl advanced, making the usual salaam — 
 and conducted me towards a row of marble columns. Beyond, was 
 spread a carpet — beautifully rich and gay — surrounded on three 
 sides by very low divans. From the ceiling was suspended an 
 immense glass chandelier ; small lamps, and brackets for wax candles, 
 were placed at intervals against the walls. Madame Vaucher was 
 kindly looking for my arrival, and presented me to the Princess, and 
 the ladies who sat near her. We then passed on, and took our 
 seats, preparatory to pipes and coffee. Whenever the Princess 
 approached, of course we all stood up ; but it was only to be 
 gently ordered to sit down again. Ilcngeh Klianum has doubtless 
 been most lovely in her early youth, and still is very handsome ; 
 with a sweet cordial smile, and natural dignity of manner ; her age 
 is said to be a little more than thirty. To a quickness and intelligence, 
 which has not been left entirely uncultivated, she unites a disposition 
 particularly amiable and considerate ; and is therefore much beloved 
 by those around her ; while her all powerful influence with the 
 

 
 
 THE L«RY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 WERSITY OF ILCWOffe 
 
 
 
 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 169 
 
 Viceroy is seldom sought in vain. Her Highness never ceased smoking 
 the whole evening, for more than five minutes at a time ; she had 
 upon her knee a tiny basket of finely wrought gold, to receive the 
 light ashes of her cigarettes — evidently preferring these to the 
 “ Chibouk .” Her dress was of green velvet, gorgeously embroidered 
 in gold stripes; on her head she wore a splendid diamond circlet, 
 tied at the back with a long pendent silver ribbon. Across her 
 brow, and round the ears, her dark brown hair was cut quite short ; 
 but hung in plaits behind, spangled with diamond ornaments; and 
 at her left side was a large diamond brooch, with Said Pacha’s 
 portrait in the centre. Her only ring was worn upon the little finger 
 of her right hand, a single diamond, set in black enamel. Many of the 
 younger slaves are almost beautiful, as painted well-dressed dolls would 
 be ; several wore diamonds in their long black hair. These girls are 
 very graceful, although their clumsy garments must be sadly in the 
 way. Their figures early lose all symmetry of form, from total want 
 of any stays or bandage to restrain them ; while for rich dresses, no 
 expense is spared, and frequently they cost as much as £60 ; 
 but Oriental ladies of high rank, never making purchases themselves 
 in the bazaars, know nothing of the prices current for French 
 velvets, silks, and satins. Accordingly, those artful women — French 
 colporteurs — who bring into the Pacha’s hareems foreign goods for 
 sale, can safely charge whatever sums they please. There were 
 several children present on this occasion, clad heavily like the grown up 
 people ; and some of their little heads may well have ached, from 
 the cumbrous load of diamonds they were each required to carry ; 
 added to the strong glare of light, and three successive nights’ 
 excitement. The Sitt of Egypt, Zenib Klianum, sat all the evening 
 in a large arm-chair, dressed in green velvet, but without embroidery ; 
 she wore a crown of diamonds, representing vine leaves, that 
 might have bought an empire. Two youthful wives of Ismail Bey 
 
170 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 sat close together, attired alike in blue ; and three very fat old ladies 
 chatted most merrily together, apparently well pleased with all that 
 passed before them. Three bolsters set on end, with loose white 
 covers of satin tied round the middle by a crimson scarf, would 
 best portray the shapeless persons of these royal dames — all widows 
 of the late Mohammed Ah Pasha. The eldest, mother of Mustafa 
 Pacha, although she treats with kindness the English governess of 
 her little granddaughter, is considered to be exceedingly irate against 
 any European ideas and innovations. The youngest of these ladies has 
 traces of great beauty, and a fine open countenance, but spoiled by 
 being so corpulent. Vocal and instrumental music continued almost 
 incessantly; and as male performers could not be admitted, a few. of 
 the musicians were dressed in men’s costume. Two bands played 
 very nicely, each in its turn — Turkish and Arabic — and some of the 
 Turkish airs were extremely pretty and melodious. The singing of 
 the Egyptian Prima Domia was too monotonous to be agreeable, but 
 the voice itself was naturally good and powerful. The rich soft carpet 
 was dotted here and there with silver spangles, which looked like 
 scattered diamonds ; and little satin cushions to support the arms, 
 were given to every lady who desired to have them. The ceiling is 
 beautifully painted, a V Arabesque ; the walls are plain white, unadorned ; 
 the furniture is all of satin damask, gold colour and crimson. Dancing 
 girls — the best in Egypt, without any other clothing than wide 
 petticoat trousers, and the thinnest gauze, above the hips, occasionally 
 entertained the party with their flexible and sometimes graceful 
 writhings ; and then, when they had done enough, followed the grand 
 performance of the evening — a curious specimen of amateur 
 theatricals — and the new amusement in a Cairene hareem, lately 
 imported from Constantinople ; unnaturally tragi-comic — full of 
 romantic love plots and cruel massacres, resulting in all kinds of strange 
 denouemens. Just before midnight we departed ; retiring from the 
 
CAIRO. 
 
 171 
 
 Princess’s presence as at an English drawing-room. Except Hengeh 
 Klianum — and she very often changed to her accustomed posture — 
 hardly anybody present sat in European fashion. It had a rather 
 droll effect, not particularly dignified, to see long rows of diamond 
 loaded ladies, and little children too, so comfortably squatted, 
 with their feet all tucked up under them. The whole scene was 
 inconceivably dazzling and fairy-like, a brilliant dream, impossible to 
 realise in these more coldly unpoetic lands. 
 
 j Friday, March ls£. — I went, at an early hour this morning, to 
 the house of Hekekyan Bey, to meet, by appointment, an Armenian 
 lady from Constantinople, the widow of the Sitteh Hekekyan’s brother, 
 who once occupied the post of Prime Minister to the late Mohammed 
 Ah Pacha. She speaks French with tolerable facility, and has a 
 pleasing courteous manner ; but it is a pity she adopts the European 
 costume, which does not suit the Oriental ladies. Afterwards, at the 
 British Presidency, I was glad to find the Eev. Mr. Stern, an 
 excellent Missionary of the Church of England, who has only just 
 returned, his health impaired by climate and privations, from two 
 years’ residence in Abyssinia. With a converted Jew’s deep 
 earnestness, he gives a very interesting account of the cordial 
 kindness with which the Gospel message was received by ah classes 
 of the people in that distant country ; who flocked continually in 
 eager crowds around him, ready to hsten to his preaching, or 
 converse with him upon religious subjects. 
 
 Sunday , March 3rd. — Tidings reached Cairo yesterday, that the 
 dahabeeh of an American gentleman, Mr. Eellowes, was burnt, by 
 accident, upon the Nile — at Siout. A terrible disaster! Two ladies 
 and two gentlemen were on board, and they appear to have lost 
 everything but the clothes they wore. 
 
 A plain and excellent sermon was this morning preached by 
 Eev. Mr. Stern, upon St. Paul’s Epistle to the Colossians, in. 1 
 
172 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 — ■“ If ye then be risen with Christ, seek those tilings which are 
 above, where Christ sitteth on the right hand of God ; ” — alluding, 
 in particular, to that most vain objection — want of time — so 
 often falsely urged against a practically religious life, by those who 
 are engaged each day in arduous worldly business and pursuits, or 
 pressed to earth by overwhelming cares. And yet, the minister 
 observed, this need not be. The many travellers who annually 
 visit Egypt, in search of pleasure or of health, find no material 
 hindrance towards attaining either of those objects, merely, because 
 their thoughts continually remember the homes and friends that they 
 have left behind, and which they ever hope and long to see again. 
 The Holy Sacrament was afterwards administered, although there 
 were but very few communicants. At the American Service, a 
 Scotch Presbyterian clergyman — whose name I do not recollect, 
 expounded the whole of the sixth chapter of St. John’s Gospel. 
 
 Monday , March 4th. — Long interviews this morning between 
 my husband and the Desert Arabs — both Towara and Alawin — 
 Suleiman having just returned from Akkaba, with anything but a 
 satisfactoiy letter in reply ; I trust all will go smoothly yet. We 
 had an awful thunderstorm to-night, accompanied by wind and rain, 
 which lasted about twenty minutes ; the lightning flashed most 
 vividly, and with scarcely a moment’s intermission. 
 
 Tuesday , March bth. — The violent storm has done some serious 
 damage to the railroad, destroying part of the embankments, and 
 this afternoon, I saw the carriages which daily take the water of 
 the Nile to Suez, returning slowly towards Cairo, being quite unable 
 to proceed far on their way. Hekekyan Bey has very kindly 
 presented my husband with a perfect model of the great Pyramid 
 of Cheops — made of a piece of the stone itself — adding 
 considerably to the value of his gift, by a most graphic description 
 of the same, in his own handwriting. He remarked, with truth, 
 
TIIE DESERT. 
 
 173 
 
 to-day, speaking of Eastern characteristics, how easily the Oriental, 
 however low his birth, or poor his circumstances, can at once 
 adapt himself to fill with dignity a far more high position. His 
 natural self-reliance coming readily to his aid, and following him into 
 any rank or station to which fortune or unforeseen vicissitude may — 
 as we too commonly express such changes — “accidentally” exalt him. 
 
 Wednesday , March Oth . — Busily preparing for the Desert, as we 
 hope to leave Grand Cairo betimes to-morrow morning. Our 
 baggage camels have already started ; since, from time honoured 
 custom, and we may refer to Holy Scripture for examples, the 
 Arabs never will go far the first day’s journey ; their pretext being 
 invariably the same, that something indispensable is always left behind. 
 We saw one of Kamil Pacha’s carriages pass quickly through the 
 TJzbe&eeh, attended by four janissaries ; conveying an important 
 stranger — son of the Sultan of Mecca — accompanied by Lora, chief 
 eunuch of her Highness Zenib Khanum. This “illustrious” guest 
 went with Said Pacha on his recent expedition to Medineh. 
 
 Thursday , March 7th . — Mounting our dromedaries, comparatively 
 clean fine animals, and easy in their pace, soon after ten a.m. ; we 
 sorrowfully bade farewell to many kind and valued friends, some of 
 whom rode with us a little way on horseback. The day was bright 
 and lovely, while the atmosphere seemed laden with delicious 
 perfume. We left the city near the Memlook Tombs, and in two 
 hours were completely in the Desert, joining our caravan among the 
 broken scattered branches and drifting sand heaps of the Petrified 
 Porest. A dim misty haze spread over to the westward, obscuring 
 the sharp triangular outlines of the Pyramids ; and, to our regret, 
 we very soon entirely lost sight of them. Everywhere, the sandy soil 
 is full of fossil sea shells ; fragments of trees — all turned to stone — 
 lie plentifully strewed around ; and the generally flat expanse is 
 seldom varied but by dreary hillocks here and there, and tufts of 
 
174 
 
 THE DESERT. 
 
 scanty herbage. We halted for the night, near Besatin, at five 
 o’clock. Our venerable Sheikh, ’Mbarak, is, in truth, a splendid 
 specimen of a genuine Arab. His beard is nearly white ; and still 
 there can be traced no mark of age in those black piercing eyes, 
 that firm elastic step, and well built frame. ’Mbarak’s is a face that 
 must “ flash fury ” when once roused to anger ; and yet a 
 countenance expressing real benevolence at other times. This evenmg 
 he has been most kind in helping us, not only to dismount, but 
 himself assisting to arrange our tents, which are indeed most 
 comfortable. He allows me to have the use of his own favourite 
 dromedary, a young and handsome white one — his nephew, Teima, 
 leading it. The tents are three in number ; two for ourselves, a 
 third for our old dragoman, Paolo Kuzzo, Salvo, and the Coptic cook. 
 In all, the camels of our caravan amount to seventeen, including 
 the dromedaries on which we ride. Divested of their loads and 
 trappings, the animals immediately strayed away in search of desert 
 pasture; until, just as the sun went down, with wonderful intelligence, 
 they all stalked back to the encampment, one by one — unsummoned — 
 to eat their frugal supper of dry beans, and then he down and form 
 a rampart round our temporary home. Our dinner was as excellent 
 as anybody could desire ; and we have every reason to be satisfied 
 with tins primitive mode of life — so far, at least, as only a few 
 hours’ experience goes — on our second “ long desert ” pilgrimage. 
 Two fleet gazelles have rushed across our path to-day ; these pretty 
 creatures love best their native freedom ; they always look most sad 
 and sorrowful when kept within the busy haunts of men. 
 
 Friday , March 8th . — We were fairly on our route by seven this 
 morning, and walked before our camels for about a mile ; first, as 
 an amusement full of exciting novelty, waiting to see our tents pulled 
 down and folded, the baggage safely packed, and camels laden, with 
 noisy growling and remonstrance, both from their leaders and 
 
THE DESERT. 
 
 175 
 
 themselves. A very furious quarrel too sprang up between ’Mbarak 
 and one of his own Bedouin ; when the latter, in the heat of passion, 
 drew his sword against the sheikh. But happily no blood was shed ; 
 and the dispute quite suddenly ended, violent and implacable as it 
 to us appeared, by the offending Arab’s prompt dismissal, and he 
 returned forthwith to Cairo. The group of pyramids at Gliizeh, 
 and the Cairene citadel, were still in view to-day ; our course lay 
 generally north-east. We passed, a little on our right, a large and very 
 curiously piled shapeless heap, made of great blocks of stone ; supposed 
 by some people — and no more probable reason for its presence can 
 be found — to mark the second day’s journey of the Israelites 
 towards the Bed Sea. The ground was covered in many parts with 
 nitre, which appeared occasionally in broad patches, white as snow. 
 The sun beat fiercely above our heads from eleven until two o’clock. 
 Having dropped behind ’Mbarak and the baggage camels, when we 
 halted for our midday rest, the only shade, a cloak upon a thorny 
 bush, we nearly lost our way, and were obliged to send a messenger 
 in search of the remainder of our caravan. Fortunately, it was at 
 no great distance ; but we had diverged in a too southernly direction. 
 The route we are now following to Suez is not one usually preferred 
 by travellers, being rather longer than the “ transit” fine ; and 
 Paolo says he has not been this way for twenty years ; but it is 
 far more interesting than the beaten paths of daily thoroughfare, 
 moreover, one feels truly hi the Desert. The long-continued and 
 immense extent of fossil oyster-beds, and petrified wood — sometimes 
 
 we saw huge trunks of trees embedded in the ground are most 
 
 extraordinary and wonderful ; they well may puzzle even a good 
 geologist to understand. Deep traces of the thunderstorm last 
 Monday night are everywhere apparent. We encamped among low 
 sandy hills at 5 r.M. 
 
 Saturday , March 9th. — Started, as we imagine, about half-past 
 
17G 
 
 THE DESERT. 
 
 seven ; but our watches with one consent, have all struck work, 
 and stopped. We have travelled the whole day over a flat and 
 desolate expanse of barren sand ; far to the right rose a white ugly 
 building, one of the Viceroy’s numerous palaces. Towards noon 
 a very slight shower of rain came down, just when our quilts and 
 carpets had been nicely spread, and we had hoped to rest in 
 comfort for a little while. The tents were pitched betimes, on 
 
 sandy ground, a wide and dreary plain, bounded north, south, 
 and west, by low bare hills ; but to the eastward rose the Suez 
 mountains — the chain of Ataka — their outline dimly looming 
 through the misty haze. 
 
 Sunday , March 1(M. — Our earnestly anticipated quiet Sabbath 
 was most unpleasantly disturbed — without a moment’s notice — by a 
 tremendous gust of wind sweeping direct through our encampment. In 
 an instant, the tent where we were sitting, while we read our 
 morning service, was blown upwards from its fastenings, like an 
 unwieldy umbrella, that can be held in shape no longer, and 
 nearly everything we had was immediately filled with sand. For 
 several hours previously we complained of most oppressive heat ; 
 and an overpowering closeness in the air continued for an hour 
 afterwards ; when the wind completely changed from east to west, 
 and we could breathe more freely. We now are able to account 
 for the heavy atmosphere of yesterday, wliich caused much 
 disagreeable drowsiness, an ailment rather dangerous, if mounted 
 on a dromedary. Our fallen tent, and various displaced chattels, 
 were soon set up again, and we felt comparatively at ease once 
 more. It was in all points well that Sunday intervened, and 
 therefore we did not attempt going on to-day towards Suez ; we 
 could not, I am sure, have kept our seats in riding ; nor could 
 we possibly have seen which way to go. Selameh gave us a 
 marvellously good dinner, despite such adverse circumstances ; and 
 
SUEZ. 
 
 177 
 
 very little sand was mingled with the many tempting viands he 
 contrived to send to table. The Arabs, sheltered by thick woollen 
 cloaks, lay down upon the ground close to their crouching camels, 
 and slept through great part of the afternoon ; but ever and 
 anon they seemed to rouse themselves, breaking out into a 
 monotonously wild chaunt ; and then they talked and laughed right 
 merrily, as though they cared not for the storm ; how very 
 
 different to the morose and grumbling nature of a civilised European ! 
 At dark the wind abated its violence, but soon began to blow 
 again as hard as ever. 
 
 Monday , March lltli. — The hurricane — for I can call it by 
 no milder term — has lasted all to-day ; but nevertheless we set 
 off at an early hour, and ought to feel most thankful we were 
 enabled to proceed. For safety’s sake, we walked until cpiite 
 
 tired, dreading to mount our awkward towering steeds ; and how 
 even the practised Bedouin kept unerringly the proper track, with 
 clouds of sand and flinty gravel blowing in their faces, covering 
 their dark-brown cloaks in flaky waves, I cannot easily imagine. The 
 air was so entirely obscured by sand, we could not always see the 
 heads of our own camels, and the sunlight scarcely penetrated that 
 dense half stifling atmosphere. The wind, although fearfully high, 
 
 and sometimes fitful, was fortunately not very cold. With extreme 
 difficulty, and after many fruitless trials, two of our tents were 
 
 pitched this evening, beneath the solid limestone walls of a former 
 station-house, belonging to the “ Overland Route” Company. Exactly 
 opposite — half a mile to the northward — stands Khan Djerdod, a 
 noted resting-place of the Mecca pilgrims. 
 
 Tuesday , March 12th. — This has been a very lovely day, and 
 particularly acceptable, after the annoyances we experienced yesterday. 
 Suez — the ancient Clysma — may surely vie with almost any other 
 spot on earth for bare sterility and general unattractiveness. The 
 
 N 
 
178 
 
 SUEZ. 
 
 deep blue waters of the Gulf, that speak to us of bygone centuries 
 
 — of great Deliverance by a Mighty Hand — and the Arabian coast 
 stretching far south, bounding the “ terrible wilderness ” beyond, 
 add some degree of beauty to the eastern side of this “ uncanny ” 
 town, where old association lingers still. “ Go forward ” are the 
 words we hear. Though nearly Desert bound, Suez may claim a 
 gradually increasing interest as an active bustling seaport ; steamers 
 continually come and go ; sailing vessels from all parts of the 
 world — laden with pilgrims, or with coffee and other merchandise 
 
 — constantly arrive, and take their departure. A very handsome 
 
 large hotel, the property of the Peninsular and Oriental Company, 
 and facing the sea, appears to merit the high reputation it has 
 acquired of being by far the most comfortable establishment of the 
 kind in Egypt. Like every Eastern Khan that I have seen, a 
 wide arched corridor surrounds the spacious court ; there is no 
 fountain in the centre ; but tables, chairs, and sofas are placed at 
 will over the area. We were hospitably received at the house of 
 Mr. and Mrs. West ; the former is at present English Vice-Consul 
 here, and also agent to the Peninsular and Oriental Company. We 
 
 hope these pleasant people will eventually have a residence more 
 
 agreeable than amid the deafening noise and choking dust of 
 Suez. Mr. Colquhoun, the Consul-General, and his sister, Madame 
 Vaucher, are now paying a visit at the Vice-Consulate, and very 
 much rejoiced we were to meet them once again ; their daily 
 kindness to us when at Cairo we shall not easily forget. Our 
 tents are pitched upon the shore, a mile northward of the town ; 
 
 and we enjoy exceedingly the pure fresh air of this seaside 
 
 encampment, in striking contrast with the horrors we endured 
 last evening, for the remains of several dead camels were then 
 our nearest neighbours. The incessant sound of railway trains is 
 a disagreeable innovation, which never will chime in and harmonise 
 
AY UN MUSA. 
 
 179 
 
 with Egypt — witness the “ Curragh ” in Old Ireland — the principle 
 in either case must be critically the same. The Pacha is erecting 
 a marine Kiosk upon a rocky site close by ; desolate and 
 
 verdureless, but with a fine view to the eastward. We have 
 
 strolled along this sandy beach in the vain hope of finding a few 
 curious and pretty shells. 
 
 Wednesday , March 13 th . — An excessively hot day has succeeded 
 an unusually cold night, during which our rest was often broken 
 by the growl of camels, and a colony of barking dogs ; neither did 
 our Bedouin guards by any means keep silence. Soon after sunrise 
 we walked to the hotel at Suez, while the remainder of our 
 caravan crossed by the shallow ford above the town, to the 
 Arabian shore. For a long time we sat within the portico of 
 
 the hotel ; enjoying the sea air, and looking at the motley groups 
 upon the wharf and jetty. Processions of serge-clad pilgrims 
 
 embarked for Mecca ; and some of Said Pacha’s camels were 
 
 landed from a remarkably unwieldy steamboat. Egyptian vessels 
 are in general very clumsy, and most primitive in their construction ; 
 reminding one of English ships, ages before the Conquest. Madame 
 Vaucher kindly procured for me a Turkish yashmak , in pity to 
 my sunburnt skin ; and certainly, this double face - veil of white 
 muslin forms an effectual shade, though rather hot and irritating 
 just at first. We were not long in sailing to the other side ; 
 
 nor did any one of our party look half so glad to touch dry 
 
 land as our good Arab Sheikh ’Mbarak. The poor old man 
 
 suffered sadly from sea-sickness, although the water was quite 
 
 calm, and beautifully clear. The dromedaries were waiting our 
 arrival ; and then we had a tedious ride to Ayun Musa, over a dull 
 sandy plain — scorched for three hours by a fierce midday sun. 
 The Gulf of Suez always continued near us on our right, its 
 
 azure colour of the early morning turned to brightest green. 
 
 N 2 
 
180 
 
 AYUN MUSA. 
 
 Our comfortable arm-chairs were placed outside the tents this 
 evening ; and nothing could be more delightfully refreshing than 
 the pure sea air we breathed. This is a favourite resort for 
 
 the beau morale of Suez, during summer months ; they have no 
 shady pleasure grounds of their own, and often come across here, 
 for days and weeks together. There are, at Ayun Musa, about 
 a dozen wells of slightly brackish water, fed probably from 
 mountain springs ; and also little gardens, furnished with kitchen 
 herbs and vegetables ; besides some flowers and fruit trees, 
 tamarisks, acacias ; and a few palms of no great size, but 
 higher than any of the rest. A tolerably commodious Khan has 
 
 been erected for the use of visitors ; and there are two or three 
 
 small white-washed cottages, belonging to Europeans. We have 
 every reason to believe in the tradition that around these very 
 wells the Israelites first encamped within Arabia Petaea ; when their 
 vast multitudes had passed in safety “ through the midst of the 
 sea ; ” wliile, of all the host of Pharaoh — the chariots and the 
 
 horsemen — “there remained not so much as one of them.” “And 
 Miriam the prophetess, the sister of Aaron,” when Moses and 
 
 the Children of Israel had sung loud praise unto the Lord, “ took 
 a timbrel in her hand, and all the women went out after her 
 with timbrels and with dances.” Wondrous recollections ! — rushing 
 in force of never dying truth upon the soul, to span the world’s 
 wide history with a glorious arch, and join — in one grand scheme 
 of Providence — the past, the present, and the future races of mankind. 
 And thus, the living scene we now behold is not devoid of interest ; 
 the Arabs sit around their blazing fires, talking incessantly, and 
 smoking. Many of our camels refused for some time to lie down, 
 and they are all more restless to-night than usual, so great is their 
 aversion to the sea. These animals appear to vary very much in 
 temper ; a difference generally proceeding from the manner of their 
 
TIIE DESERT. 
 
 181 
 
 treatment. Paolo told us of a man lie knew, some twenty years 
 ago, who one day beat his camel most unmercifully ; feeding time 
 came — the creature would not eat a single morsel. Everybody went 
 to sleep ; and then — when all was quiet — the camel seized his cruel 
 master by the throat. His comrades did their best to save him ; 
 but their utmost efforts were in vain ; they could not loosen that 
 vindictive grasp, or force the furious camel to let go his hold, till 
 life had fled for ever ! Our old friends of the “ Crinoline ” have 
 arrived at Ayun Musa, and their tents are pitched near ours ; we 
 hope that our united forces will carry us triumphantly through 
 Petra. To our extreme regret, Captain Knox’s leave of absence from 
 liis regiment has almost expired, and he will journey homewards 
 by a quicker route than round by Kas Mohammed. The 
 Honble. J. W. Leigh, Mr. Richard Marker, Mr. F. W. Holland, 
 and Mr. Percy Candy — will, I hope, be our compagnons de voyage , 
 for the next two months at least. Their Towara Sheikh is 
 brother to ’Mbarak ; the latter accompanied Lord Londonderry, 
 who had a likeness taken of the noble Chieftain, to illustrate his 
 published book of “Eastern Travels.” We have a young boy hi 
 our caravan, who has the misfortune to be deaf and dumb ; 
 but he is very useful notwithstanding ; and it is most gratifying 
 to observe the kind behaviour of his companions towards him. 
 
 Thursday, March 1 ith. — Off before seven this morning — turning 
 our faces southward ; and have had a dreary nine hours’ ride to-day, 
 within the Wilderness of Shur. The sun’s most fiery rays, reflected 
 from the dry and sliifting sand, would have been hotter than we 
 could well endure, but for a gentle breeze which blew directly from 
 the sea ; nor could we find a friendly shelter for our half hour’s 
 rest at noon. Por some time after leaving Ayun Musa, we observed 
 great quantities of sparkling mica lying upon the ground ; occasionally 
 in large-sized blocks. Our course was first south-east, and subsequently 
 
 N 3 
 
182 
 
 AIN IIAwIrAII. 
 
 due south. We have encamped in a bare sandy wady ; called by 
 ’Mbarak Kegem Nusaranee. 
 
 The Arabs of the Sinaitic Peninsula are, in reality, subject to no 
 regular code of laws ; save those peculiar to themselves, and administered 
 by their own feudal authorities. There is always one head sheikh, 
 dominant over each tribe ; who holds divans , and in every case gives 
 sentence upon his sole responsibility. Blood revenge is considered 
 perfectly lawful, and even proper ; and divorces can be obtained 
 on very slight grounds indeed. Their women are never, on any 
 possibly conceived pretext, allowed to leave the country ; and if a 
 man marries a wife — and the Bedouin very seldom take more than 
 two wives at a time — having sisters then living with him, and the 
 wife does not agree well with those sisters, the former may be at 
 once dismissed, and the husband becomes legally free to marry again. 
 The reason assigned for such an unfair arrangement, being that of 
 “ blood connection ! ” Then, there are, in certain parts of the 
 Peninsula, magazines for wheat and other stores, of which each 
 Ar ab has a key ; but should one of them abuse this opportunity, 
 by taking anything that of right does not belong to himself ; 
 that man is utterly disgraced thenceforward, and driven from his 
 tribe. 
 
 Friday , March 15 tli . — Leaving last night’s encampment at half- 
 past six a.m., we have proceeded on our journey for ten hours and 
 a half — including a stoppage among sandhills of three quarters of 
 an hour. The scenery varied generally but little from that of yesterday 
 
 — an undulating waste, scorched by the burning sunbeams. Our 
 course lay S.S.E., until we turned towards the left, to visit Ain Haw&rah 
 
 — undoubtedly the “ Marah ” of the Book of Exodus ; when our 
 direction changed S.E., and thus it has continued ever since. We 
 tasted of the “bitter” waters — opaquely green in colour, and in- 
 describably nauseous to the palate ; Harrogate water, with a solution 
 
WADY GIIURUNDEL. 
 
 183 
 
 of the strongest Epsom salts, might perhaps give some idea of its 
 abominably disgusting flavour. There are, I think, few points upon 
 which travellers more widely differ in their statements — probably 
 according to the winter rains being recent or remote — and we both 
 desired exceedingly, ourselves, to realise this very important and most 
 interesting fact. Once before we came to Ain Hawarah, on the 
 30th of December, and unanimously pronounced this water to be 
 “ slightly brackish ; ” now, we can no longer marvel at the disappoint- 
 ment of the wandering Israelites, however justly we condemn their 
 faithless and ungrateful murmurings. The Chosen People stood des- 
 pairingly at Marah, in the same month of the year, or very nearly 
 so, corresponding with this present time. The fountain springs from 
 a large, whitish, rocky mound ; and close at hand, there grows a 
 stunted bushy palm tree ; the only bit of verdure to be seen, save 
 scattered patches of that thorny plant, of which the camels are so fond 
 — the Ghurkud. They crop as eagerly palm-branches too, whenever 
 they can reach them. We learnt this lesson rather to our cost to-day, 
 for Paolo had, at our request, put two small bundles of the Marah 
 leaves into his capacious saddle-bags ; and left them to peep out so 
 temptingly, that all the best were eaten up before the robbery was 
 suspected. Masses of stone — white as Carrara marble — were lying 
 here and there. At five o’clock we found the tents already pitched, 
 and comfortably prepared for our reception, in the deep Wady 
 Ghurundel — fertile by comparison — because abundant in the ghurkud 
 plant, in tamarisk bushes, acacias, and wild palm trees ; and most 
 commonly regarded as the true Elim of Holy Scripture, where the 
 children of Israel “ encamped by the waters.” 
 
 Saturday , March 1 6th. — At first, our course this day was S.S.E. 
 but afterwards S.E. We mounted about seven o’clock ; for, even 
 at that early hour, the heat was very great for walking. The scenery 
 became much more picturesque ; and the distant mountain ranges 
 
184 
 
 WADY TAIYIBEII. 
 
 had a fine effect, from the clear sharpness of their outlines, and their 
 exquisitely varied tints — white, brown and yellow, as the sunlight 
 fell upon them. At ten o’clock we passed the brackish wells of 
 Wady Useit ; a few small shallow holes dug in the now dry gravelly 
 torrent bed. This place resembles Wady Ghurundel — having also 
 dwarfish palm and tamarisk trees — while our excellent and learned 
 friend, the Eev. Dr. Stewart, urges their united claim to be considered 
 Elim. Some writers — on very insufficient grounds — have here located 
 Marah ; but they never could have known the really “ bitter ” potion 
 that all our party tasted yesterday. At Ain Hawarah, and in Wady 
 Useit, the sand seemed covered everywhere with a salt or nitrous 
 crust. We sat beneath the shade of palm bushes, to rest awhile 
 and eat our luncheon ; and towards two p.m. we entered Wady Taiyibeh 
 — full of trees and shrubs, like the valleys I have just described — 
 with a little brackish water, and surrounded by steep rocks, forming 
 regular strata of lime and sandstone ; upon which a gloriously setting 
 sun spread his own royal mantle — golden, and many coloured — 
 ere he bade adieu. To-morrow, being Sunday, we should now prefer 
 an hour’s more riding, and thus encamp upon the shore ; but ’Mbarak 
 finds rich pasture for his camels where our tents are pitched — and 
 moreover, men and animals alike detest the sea ; from whence a soft, 
 refreshing breeze has wafted over us all day. So long as we continued 
 on a higher level, we saw the toweling rounded summit of great 
 Gebel Serbal, rising majestically above some intervening ridges. 
 
 Monday , March 18/A. — The whole of yesterday was spent in 
 peaceful quietude. ’Mbarak sent us some fresh bread to taste, mixed 
 in the baking with some oily butter, and not at all unpalatable. Last 
 night was rather cold ; we rose betimes this morning, and started 
 off on foot at six o’clock. The early sunbeams tipped each moun- 
 tain peak, and stole along their craggy sides — revealing beauty 
 that was veiled before. The ground appeared much torn and furrowed 
 
THE DESERT. 
 
 185 
 
 by heavy winter rains ; but yet it felt quite firm, and very pleasant 
 to the tread. Ere scarcely three quarters of an hour had passed, 
 we came to the sea-shore — undoubtedly the first halting-place of 
 Israel, after “ they removed from Elim, and encamped by the Eed 
 Sea.” To-day, our ten hours’ and a half journey, including one hour’s 
 stoppage, continued on the coast, or very near it ; and gladly we 
 inhaled the pure fresh air that blew from thence so gently. And 
 now, the sun sinks down behind the Egyptian hills ; the gulf looks 
 beautifully calm — one radiant sheet of molten gold — and rippling 
 wavelets break in sweet harmony upon the hard smooth sand, a few 
 yards only from our tents. But every pleasing picture has its shady 
 side. A cargo-boat with latteen sail, and of quaint old-fashioned 
 build — bound for the port of Suez — through many weary hours, has 
 struggled hard against a contrary wind, and makes but little way. 
 Besides, we saw this afternoon the body of a man, washed on the 
 strand by the advancing tide ; murdered, or drowned by accident 
 — who can really tell ? Apparently, he had not long been dead, 
 our people say. The lofty heights of Serbal and of Gebel Musa 
 were both in sight from the broad sandy plain, El Murchah — the 
 Wilderness of Sin. The granite region has commenced, with all its 
 bold diversity of light and shadow ; while, better still, the feathery 
 tamarisk trees and prickly shrubs have been unusually plentiful, 
 within the different wadys we have lately crossed. Where brighter 
 vegetation there is none, this desert green is always truly welcome 
 to the pilgrim’s eye ; and the poor camels revel greedily, whenever 
 an opportunity occurs, in the wholesome variety of food this suc- 
 culent, and often highly aromatic herbage, so scantily affords them. 
 These animals are naturally ungracious in their dispositions, and 
 quite insensible to small attentions from a stranger’s hand. If one 
 courteously offers a supposed dainty morsel to a camel, he either 
 turns away entirely, or accepts one’s civility with an insolent and 
 
186 
 
 THE DESERT. 
 
 haughty toss. I believe, that most of those which have kind masters, 
 and have been with them all their lives, may become attached and 
 faithful creatures ; but it is difficult to make a full-grown camel 
 willingly obedient, or care much for anybody. Our camp to-night 
 is picturesque beyond description ; besides the watch-fires of our 
 fellow-travellers, our own Bedouin are divided in two parties ; each 
 in a circle round a cheerful blaze. There seems but small attention 
 paid to the most ordinary religious duties among the Desert Arabs. 
 Kind-hearted people are these good Towara ; and a careful Christian 
 missionary would, by God’s blessing, in due season reap, a harvest for 
 his Master, from this simple uncontaminated tribe. Except ’Mbarak, 
 one only of our Arabs observes the Moslem “ Ramadan.” The 
 venerable Sheikh keeps a strict fast for all the caravan, one would 
 imagine ; since not a scrap of bread, one single drop of water, or 
 the never failing pipe, may touch his fevered lips — from sunrise 
 until evening — for yet a month to come ; and painfully we per- 
 ceive how wasting to his strength is so much self-denial — which 
 even the youngest could but ill endure — when travelling day by day. 
 
 Tuesday , March 1 9th. — From generally south, our course has 
 varied to south-east during this long day’s journey of ten hours and 
 a half. The heat was ahnost greater than we could bear; indeed, 
 I never felt the sun rays burn with such a scorching power ; and 
 yet, there was a gentle balmy breeze that prevented our being lite- 
 rally dried to heaps of cinders. The Desert mirage was continually 
 before us, and distant herds of camels — as we thought — were at 
 one place wading slowly through a marsh or shallow lake ; we could 
 hardly believe that it was an optical delusion. The main crest of Gebel 
 Serbal seldom vanished from our sight ; although, I must confess, 
 the northern route — that we took formerly — affords a nearer and an 
 infinitely more majestic view of the Mount Sinai of the first Egyptian 
 Christians ; which, from a south-west direction, merges in one grand 
 

 
 
 
 V* 
 
 
 M LiBRAriY 
 OF TKfc 
 
 «£fii»!T¥ OF IU.MOR 
 
 
TUR. 
 
 187 
 
 mountain range, all bearing the same name. We crossed obliquely 
 the wide embouchure of Wady Feiran, and have encamped upon El- 
 Ka’a — “ the Plain ” — a vast expanse of sandy gravel, producing an 
 abundant Desert pasturage for camels. 
 
 Wednesday , March 2(M. — The coldness of last night changed 
 by degrees into a roastingly hot day. From six o’clock till one, our 
 course continued south, and then we turned S.S.E. — still traversing 
 El-Ka’a. For several weary hours, the sea and ridge of mountains 
 near Cosseir, were shut out by a low chain of hills ; but, early in 
 the afternoon, Gebel Nukus — the “ Bell Mountain ” — quite suddenly 
 appeared, projecting into the Gulf of Suez. The Wady Hibran — 
 by some considered to be the true Rephidim — opened broadly on 
 our left, running due east towards Gebel Musa. We halted at midday 
 beneath the partial shade of a large tamarisk tree ; and about one 
 hour’s distance to the north of Tur, we reached a pretty fountain 
 of tolerably good water ; with gardens in its neighbourhood, and 
 numerous little palm groups, belonging to the convent of Mount 
 Sinai ; each clump of trees surrounded, like the gardens, by a mud- 
 built wall. As we rode through the very humble cemetery of Tur, 
 my camel leader — Teinia — drew his sword, and cut off a small palm 
 branch ; he then approached with quiet reverence one of the lowly 
 graves — his father’s; kissed it, and left the unpretending tribute there. 
 We are stationed half an hour to the southward of the miserably 
 unattractive seaport, Tur — once a Phoenician colony ; with proud 
 “ Tyrus,” the “ merchant city,” for its godmother ; I do not wish to 
 use this latter term irreverently. The monks of St. Catharine have a 
 chapel here, and several date groves ; and a tolerably good road, 
 made by Abbas Pacha, leads direct from hence to Gebel Musa. 
 Arabs and Greeks bring shells, black coral, and curious stones to sell. 
 
 Thursday , March 21st. — Quietly breakfasting this morning at a 
 later hour than usual, we strolled upon the shore, mounted our 
 
188 
 
 GEBEL NAKtJS. 
 
 dromedaries, and started for the “ Bell Mountain.” Crossing El-Ka’a, 
 north of Tur — the ground on all sides white in lime patches — we 
 found ourselves among the “ lower line of hills, which form,” says 
 Dr. Stanley, “ as it were the outposts of the Sinaitic range itself ; ” 
 and had some really perilous mountain paths to tread, amid loose 
 stones, soft sand, and broken rocks — sometimes along sloping narrow 
 shelves, high above deep ravines, which wound their craggy way 
 down to the bright blue sea — whose colour beautifully contrasted 
 with the dark red sandstone of these wild barren glens. Within a 
 mountain cave — where the Greek mass is celebrated now and then 
 — once lived a solitary hermit monk. His dwelling faced the gulf ; 
 but balmy breezes were of no avail to keep grim Death from entering 
 this lonely spot ; in six short months the poor ascetic perished. The 
 heat to-day upon the plain was most intense ; and truly we appreciated 
 the cool refreshing air of higher land. A little further, a small village 
 came in sight, close to the shore, snugly embowered in palm trees, 
 and very pretty at a distance ; the sunlit waters, unruffled by one 
 single wave, rivalled the unflecked sky above in azure blue. A 
 far-off sail occasionally appeared, and the light curling smoke wreath 
 of an Indian transit steamer. We are told there is a coral reef 
 immediately in front of Tur ; at all events, Arabia Pctnea must well 
 deserve her dangerous sounding name ; since every vessel, without 
 exception, seems carefully to avoid a near approach towards her 
 stern forbidding cliffs — preferring the opposite, and far more safe, 
 Egyptian coast. Three and three quarter hours we were en route — 
 between our tents and midday halt at the mysterious, rarely visited, 
 Gebel Nakus. Here was formerly — Moslem tradition states — a Christian 
 place of worship ; but the Arabian Prophet — or, as some venture to 
 declare, Almighty God Himself — in anger caused the church, and all 
 that it contained, including priest and congregation, to be swallowed 
 up, quite unawares, within this wondrous sepulchre — where mass 
 
BIRDASIIIAII. 
 
 189 
 
 continues to be solemnised, both day and night, incessantly! Moreover, 
 it is said, no Christian now can hear the organ’s peal — unless a true 
 Mohammedan accompanies him ! Each sound of music that we 
 heard reminded us of the full swelling tones of a noble organ ; and 
 was seemingly produced by quantities of shifting sand, set rapidly 
 in motion down the rocky surface of the steep declivity. We all 
 lay flat upon our faces, and tried the same experiment ; succeeding 
 more or less in drawing out this strangely sonorous and plaintive 
 harmony. The sand was very hot and dry, extremely fine, and of 
 silicious quality. Behind this curious mountain is a rocky defile, 
 where may be seen a few inscriptions in old Hebrew characters ; 
 and others cut in modern Greek. One traveller of recent times — 
 whose name I have forgotten — asserts the presence of an inscription 
 hereabouts, in letters three feet high ; but nobody has since been 
 able to discover it. We returned to our encampment, just as the 
 setting sun reminded men and animals that supper hour was near. 
 A large canoe lies moored upon the beach below ; three of our 
 number are inclined to hire it, or some other boat, and thus avoid 
 the tedious camel ride to Bas Mohammed. Greek Christians form the 
 principal population here ; encouraged, and in part protected, by the 
 monks of Gebel Musa. 
 
 Friday , March 22nd. — This was an eleven hours’ journey ; and 
 until noon, our course lay south, then S.S.E. When the sun was 
 hottest, swarms of small flies — stinging like gnats — annoyed us greatly 
 for a time ; except these irritating plagues, we saw no living thing 
 — save three gazelles and a few tall white cranes. Shaded imperfectly 
 by a tamarisk bush, on which my husband spread his ample cloak ; 
 we rested half an hour upon the bare flat plain — whereon our 
 tents are pitched ; a strong wind threatening at each gust to tear 
 them from their fastenings. There is a sort of “ station ” here, 
 called Birdashiah ; two pilgrim boats — for Jedda bound — have taken 
 
190 
 
 RAS MOHAMMED. 
 
 shelter from this storm, close by. Northward, the eye still fixes on 
 the distant crest of Gebel Serbal ; south-east extends the granite range 
 of Sinai — proud termination of one unbroken chain, geologically 
 varied, ever beautiful, nobly commencing at “ that goodly mountain, 
 even Lebanon.” Again to quote from Dr. Stanley’s pen — “ It is 
 the southern limit of the history of the Israelites. Their boundaries, 
 in the narrower sense, were Dan and Beersheba ; in the wider sense, 
 Lebanon and Sinai.” 
 
 Saturday , March 23 rd. — The wind had gradually abated, ere we 
 left Birdashiah at six a.m. ; but yet there was enough to blow the 
 sand in all directions, and make our journey particularly disagreeable. 
 Shortly after noon, we entered within a rocky vale, romantically 
 wild ; enclosed by granite mountains of the richest colouring — 
 red, blue, green, yellow — magnificently contrasted with each other, 
 in deeper or in fighter tints, according as the sun rays played upon 
 them. The wintry torrents that have for ages rushed impetuously 
 down this very curious glen, have to a vast extent conglomerated 
 its sandy covering ; which lies in various forms, more regular and 
 remarkable, than those we thought extraordinary upon the sun-dried 
 mud banks of the river Nile. Enormous blocks ; wide terraces, and 
 flights of stairs ; or piled up blocks — so singularly square and even, 
 a casual glance might well imagine them to be remains of massive 
 temples, or of cyclopean walls. We rode along this wady for at 
 least an hour ; and then the mountains opened gloriously before us 
 — revealing Has Mohammed and the now calm Bed Sea. Three 
 barren islands fie beyond the promontory, and one of them appears 
 comparatively large. We are encamped on deep dry sand, close to 
 the shore ; and all around is for the moment still and peaceful. The 
 Bedouin — usually indefatigable — arc not inclined to talk this 
 evening ; and the ever-growling, discontented camels, seem tired from 
 yesterday’s forced march, and the past night’s uncomfortable restlessness. 
 
liAS MOHAMMED. 
 
 191 
 
 A goat has made his way into the camp ; and a fine white-fleeced 
 sheep, purchased by Paolo, coolly walked inside our tent as we sat at 
 dinner. 
 
 Monday , March 25th. — Our Sabbath was intensely hot ; 
 occasionally a sudden puff of wind — heated as from a fiery furnace 
 — blew clouds of burning sand into the tents. All the gentlemen 
 have been on an excursion, to the Eas Mohammed. They started 
 very early in a fishing-boat ; but were compelled to leave it within 
 half an hour, by a prodigious coral reef — running far out into the 
 Gulf of Suez ; across this formidable barrier, they were carried upon 
 men’s shoulders to the shore. Then they walked southward for three 
 hours — over sharp rocks and sandy plains — until they stood on 
 the extreme point of the Sinaitic promontory — apparently one solid 
 mass of fossil stone — two hundred feet in perpendicular, they think, 
 above the sea. At the very base of these stern beetling cliffs, lives 
 an old Arab fisherman ; who was then preparing what he had this 
 day caught, for sale at an adjacent village — Shurm. Fish are not only 
 abundant hi this neighbourhood, but are also said to be of infinite 
 variety. There are soles of many colours ; red gurnet and mullet ; 
 flying fish ; and horned fish, with fins so large and winglike, that 
 they resemble giant butterflies. Myriads of bright-green minnows — 
 such was, at any rate, their shape and colour — crept in and out 
 of coral rocks. My party rested for an hour at Eas Mohammed, 
 enchanted with the splendid panoramic view that met their gaze. 
 The Erythroean Sea spread south before them ; eastward and westward, 
 they could see the outstretched arms of Suez and of Akkaba — bound 
 firmly by the mountain chains of Egypt and Arabia. The waters 
 were transparent ; and most beautifully blue, except where underlying 
 coral reefs made them of a brilliant green. The fishermen are 
 accustomed here to dive for shells and coral ; the latter lies in clear 
 distinctness at seemingly unfathomable depths ; and some fresh 
 
192 
 
 THE DESERT. 
 
 specimens procured, were of a rich lilac hue — for a few minutes 
 only — then quickly faded, and became quite worthless. Mother- 
 of-pearl is very common in this locality ; and many other shells, as 
 rare as they are beautiful, are found from time to time. The sunsets 
 were most gorgeous, although without the golden “ after glow ” that 
 always follows them upon the Nile. We had not travelled far to-day, 
 when, from higher ground, a noble prospect opened out before 
 us — superbly grand on every side. The rival gulfs, united by the 
 open sea ; equal in beauty, and so calmly blue, that one would 
 fain declare, their radiant robes have truly not been borrowed from 
 a cloudless azure sky. More faintly traced, but still discernible, 
 were the Arabian and Egyptian mountains. Eas Mohammed too — 
 that tower of strength to guard the Promised boundary ; while — 
 nearer than all these — huge granite rocks rose to an awful height, 
 in stern and solemn majesty ; their outlines sharp and bold, each 
 crag presenting different shades of colour ; a bright green hue — 
 portraying emerald verdure — alternates not unfrequently with crimson, 
 yellow, and deep grey or brown. Our course lay first north-east and 
 then due north. Por full three hours we traversed dreary uplands, 
 before we entered the rough mountain passes, and crossed steep 
 rocky hills, terribly painful and distressing to the camels’ feet. Ere 
 noon we came to a broad valley, bounded by granite heights, 
 magnificently wild. Beneath the welcome shadow of a dark grey 
 towering peak, we gladly rested for an hour. Masses of scoria — 
 presenting the burnt appearance of volcanic lava — lay all around 
 upon the yellow sand. The ghurkud plant, which grows so frequently 
 in spots where moisture there is none to be perceived, had ceased 
 entirely now ; and nothing to redeem this sterile desolation, could in 
 any place be seen — excepting here and there, a few acacia trees. 
 The thermometer rose rapidly, from half-past eleven a.m. until 
 two p.m. — varying from 84° to 126°. The scenery became more 
 
TIIE DESERT. 
 
 193 
 
 grand as we advanced within the “triangle.” Between stupendous 
 cliffs, the Gulf of Akkaba occasionally gleamed ; while range after 
 range of mountains came in sight, in fine perspective, unobscured 
 by haze ; sometimes so many as nine at once were counted — each 
 in succession — further and further distant. This portion of Arabia 
 Petrcea is very rarely visited ; but certainly, the more northern routes, 
 generally pursued by European travellers — although, undoubtedly, 
 of even greater interest as regards their Scriptural associations — can 
 otherwise bear no comparison with the south end of the peninsula. Our 
 dragoman has been this way once before, and also two of our Towara 
 Arabs ; ’Mbarak candidly confesses that, to himself, this lower region 
 is a terra incognita. We found our tents pitched in a snug rocky 
 nook of the long Wady Labeh ; and never was a site more suitable 
 selected, as the scene of an encampment in the wilderness. Bold 
 granite peaks, tremendous in their altitude, and beautiful on every 
 side — like mighty ramparts round our desert home — rise proudly 
 upwards to the sky. A glorious moon shines full and clear, blending 
 her silvery light with the red lurid flames of our usual watch fires. 
 Southward stands Gebel Turfa — stern guardian of this wady, as we 
 see him here. 
 
 Tuesday , March 2 6th . — At every step of this day’s journey the 
 heights and valleys have increased in grandeur. Wide sandy plains 
 exhibit now and then a mound or jagged rock detached, and standing 
 picturesquely, far separated from the general mass. In beautifully 
 defined perspective, twelve distinct mountain ridges all at one time 
 appeared. Besides, we always seemed entirely enclosed within a 
 formidable rocky barrier ; and yet, the passage from one wady to 
 another is so very gradual, it is quite impossible to ascertain where 
 each of them begins or terminates. We rested in the hollow of a 
 beetling cliff; and then pursued our way, hour after hour, along a 
 Avinding glen — between high granite ranges, unequalled in the splendour 
 
 o 
 
194 
 
 TIIE DESERT. 
 
 of their general effect by any mountains I have ever seen. So real 
 was our enjoyment of the scenery, we became almost unmindful of 
 the excessive heat ; which was occasionally tempered by a gentle breeze. 
 Our course . has varied from due north to north-west. The chosen 
 camping-place — in Wady Mach use — to-night, is still more picturesque 
 than that of yesterday ; stupendous cliffs rise boldly all around, and 
 shut us in, without any apparent opening. 
 
 Wednesday , March 27th. — At six a.m. we started, and slowly wound 
 our way over rough and sandy ground ; the various coloured stones 
 that lay in broken fragments continually tempting us to pick them up. 
 To our regret, we cannot cany many of these specimens to England, 
 and add more than a very few such heavy items to our baggage. 
 For an hour or two the rocky mountains gradually increased in 
 altitude ; until we rose by slow degrees, and the view was much 
 extended. At last, began a rather dangerous and very steep descent 
 into a wady — the most grandly desolate that imagination can conceive. 
 No path led down the dizzy “staircase,” and it was difficult for any 
 human being to walk in safety upon the craggy mountain side ; but 
 all our tottering camels were guided by the careful Bedouin, from end 
 to end of the declivity ; without one serious stumble, or the slightest 
 damage to themselves and heavy awkwardly packed loads. The 
 blended lights and shadows of this magnificently wild pass, were 
 beautiful beyond an artist’s pencil to delineate. Not a single colour 
 that can be named, with every possible variety of shade, but finds its 
 place amid the rock recesses of this splendid Sinaitic scene. At noon, 
 we found a cool retreat, within an overhanging limestone cliff, marked 
 — from the oxide of iron it contained — exactly like the richest 
 watered silk. A little further stood a great rock of granite, green 
 and red ; and very near to that, a mass of “ watered ” lilac. After 
 about an hour, the scenery appeared comparatively tame ; we 
 traversed several wadys in succession — always unconscious when 
 

 . M LiBHttY 
 
 CF Yit% 
 
 UMNEfttlTl lif ILU« 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 195 
 
 each began or ended — surrounded, every one of them, by lofty 
 granite boundaries ; their different tints most exquisitely diversified. 
 A tamarisk grove — unusually extensive — and two or three wild 
 pigeons, gave unwonted signs of life : we had entered, it was evident, 
 an oasis in this desert region. In one part of the wady lay a quantity 
 of drift-wood — trunks and branches — borne hither by the winter 
 torrents ; and a short distance beyond, we saw some tolerably fine 
 palm trees, the tallest we have seen since leaving Egypt. A large 
 white crane having unexpectedly made his appearance, Mr. Marker 
 fired at him ; the bird was slightly wounded, although he seemed 
 insultingly indifferent to the shot ; and even suffered himself to be 
 caught by Musa, one of the To war a Bedouin. The Arab, proud of 
 his trophy, stretched out the crane’s wide wings, and thereby caused 
 prodigious noise and fluttering. This sudden turmoil naturally 
 frightened all the dromedaries, who simultaneously swerved round, 
 with military precision, and then began to dance and run away. 
 Tossed like a ball, and putting Mr. Candy’s life in danger, by concussion 
 of our steeds , I did not lose my seat for several minutes ; but, at last, 
 I could hold on no longer, and had a tumble, though I was happily 
 enabled considerably to break its force, by catching at the trappings 
 as I fell. When all was right again, we steadily proceeded onwards, 
 over very stony and uneven ground, to our encampment in the dreary 
 Wady DjerMt. Our course has generally been north-west to-day. 
 
 Good- Friday, March 29 th. — Ten hours and a half we travelled 
 on our journey yesterday ; in a north-west direction, until the 
 last half hour, when we sharply turned due south. Most of the 
 mountain scenery through which we passed was very grand ; and we 
 are now snugly encamped within the immense curved Wady es- 
 Sheikh ; with Gebel Kattrin — the highest peak of all tiffs Sinai range 
 — towering majestically in front ; and Gebel Musa — the traditionary 
 mountain of “ The Law ” — stands nearer still. Excellent fresh bread 
 
196 
 
 MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 has been procured from the Convent of St. Catharine ; and most 
 delicious water, too, from “ Jethro’s Well.” A cold wind blows in 
 frequent gusts — we are 4000 feet above the level of the sea — but 
 we feel very comfortably sheltered in the tents, and for a long time 
 before the sun declined the heat was quite oppressive. Dining 
 
 rather earlier this afternoon than usual, we walked up to the 
 
 Convent ; as the Superior had sent a civil message, requesting us to 
 visit him ; accompanied by an assurance that we were welcome to 
 any provisions he was able to supply. We gained admittance to the 
 monastic fortress by the assistance of a windlass, worked by two 
 
 stout “ brothers ; ” a rope was soon let down to us, with a piece of 
 
 stick tied to it, as a chair ; and we were hoisted upwards, until we 
 came just on a level with a curious trap- door, full thirty feet 
 above the ' ground — a third person assisting to land us safely on 
 the platform. There was service going on in the old Church of the 
 Transfiguration ; so we followed our conductor tlmough a labyrinth 
 of buildings ; and ascended a few stone staircases and wooden ladders 
 into a low and very gloomy apartment, furnished with dirty cotton- 
 covered divans ; and some shelves and tables, whereon lay antiquated 
 books and dingy paper, writing materials, a jar of leeches, and I 
 know not what besides. The “ Travellers’ Book ” was now presented, 
 and my husband wrote our names in it, accompanied by the usual 
 words of “ compliment ” to the “ fraternity.” One of the monks 
 brought in a tray containing dibs — the juice of grapes compressed 
 — cold water, and araki ; to which succeeded tiny cups of remarkably 
 good coffee. We then were led along several open corridors, and up 
 a staircase, into the Superior’s private room, where he received us 
 very kindly ; and in a little while he offered to conduct us to the 
 church. lie has an open and good-humoured countenance ; but 
 nothing clerically dignified about him, beyond his sombre costume, 
 which was cleaner and less time-worn than that of many of the 
 
MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 197 
 
 monks we saw to-day. His age can scarcely, I should think, be 
 over forty. The late Superior has been dead . four years ; he was an 
 old, white-bearded man, and much more venerable in appearance 
 than his successor. The church is rich in pictures and mosaics, 
 besides some ancient manuscripts, and other valuable relics ; too 
 often accurately described by travellers to need a recapitulation here. 
 The most prominent points of general interest are St. Catharine’s 
 
 splendid tomb, within the chancel, and the small chapel of the 
 
 “ Burning Bush.” The only bells, deserving of the name, are 
 Russian ; but strange sounds are produced by striking two wooden 
 hammers upon an oblong beam — also of wood — slung from the 
 ceiling by strong ropes, tied firmly round the centre and both ends. 
 More ringing sounds are produced on half the circle of an iron wheel 
 tire, struck by two hammers of iron ; and hung from the ceiling by 
 a cord, suspended from a rusty nail. In one of the lower courts we 
 were shown a broken flagstone, with a stone hammer lying near it ; 
 used always for the “ death toll,” when any inmate of the convent 
 
 dies. Fourteen monks are here, and only one of them a seven 
 
 years’ resident ; but formerly their number was much greater than 
 it is at present. They seem very lazy and illiterate ; although the 
 convent discipline appears extremely hard, and their habitual mode 
 of life is self-denying and abstemious. The sun was fast declining 
 as we issued from a low postern in the massive wall, that opens 
 into the fruitful terraced garden ; where dark funereal cypresses 
 shoot their tall spires above the other trees — all of which seem 
 flourishing, and are in wonderful variety. The homeward walk was 
 most enjoyable ; but ere we reached our tents, the evening darkness 
 had quite set in. Sad tidings have arrived from Petra ; the rival 
 sheikhs round Wady Musa will not make peace among themselves, 
 and no one tribe can singly command sufficient forces to protect the 
 passing stranger. Alas ! I fear, we cannot go. 
 
198 
 
 MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 Which of these lofty summits is the true Mount Sinai ? has 
 long been a perplexing question ; and to any one who takes an 
 interest in the subject, the following remarks from Mr. Holland’s 
 journal — inserted by his kind permission — are very valuable, and 
 afford an all important clue to future diligent investigation : — “ Im- 
 “ mediately below us, as we stood upon the summit of Gebel Musa, lay 
 “ the Wady Sebaiyeh ; so narrow and rough, that we at once decided 
 “ it could not possibly be the valley in which the Israelites encamped. 
 “ We climbed up a watercourse, on the left of the Chapel of the 
 “ Virgin — a small ruin just below Eas Sufsafeh — and, in about a 
 “ quarter of an hour, suddenly came to the top. Here, we overlooked 
 “ the whole of Wady er-Eahah, lying like an amphitheatre beneath 
 “ our feet ; and we at once exclaimed that this must be the very 
 “ spot we were so anxiously seeking. We afterwards climbed to 
 “ the summit of the two peaks that rise on each side of this water- 
 “ course, the left of which is the highest ; but did not gain a 
 “ much better view than before. 
 
 Saturday , March 3(M. — “ As we rode up Wady er-Eahah, 
 “ we had a splendid view of Eas Sufsafeh. It towers up almost 
 “ precipitously from the bottom of the plain ; and may certainly 
 “ be called a mountain ‘ which can be touched.’ On both sides, 
 “ as we then stood, it is separated from the surrounding eminences ; 
 “ on the right by Wady Leja, and on the left by Wady ed-Deir. 
 
 “ The mountain rises into two high peaks, with a deep cleft between 
 “ them. The crevice we ascended yesterday, and from whence we 
 “ looked down into Wady er-Eahah, seemed to us then, without 
 “ hesitation, the very place for encampment of the Israelites ; and 
 “ still more did the mountain, as we viewed it from the plain 
 “ below, appear to be exactly the spot one could imagine for the 
 “ giving forth of ‘ the Law.’ There, to the right, ran up a 
 “ sloping watercourse, which might have been the patli that Moses 
 
REPHIDIM. 
 
 199 
 
 “ trod, when lie ‘ went up ’ at the command of God. There, 
 “ also — at the mountain’s base — were the low granite mounds, 
 “ forming a sort of boundary ; and, apparently to mark out the 
 “ latter still more clearly, a winding footpath ran along their edge. 
 “ And there, rose the two lofty peaks, which were enveloped in 
 “ ‘ clouds and lightning.’ 
 
 “ Before leaving our camping-place at Gebel Musa, Leigh and I 
 “ climbed to the top of Gebel Sena. I tried the ascent at first on 
 “ the Wady es-Sheikh side ; but was stopped by a perpendicular 
 “ rock, when about two thirds up. I then worked my way round 
 “ to the er-Bahah side, where I ascended without difficulty ; and 
 “ from the highest peak I had a good view of Wady er-Bahah 
 “ and Wady es-Sheikh. There are several irregular summits, sur- 
 “ rounding a sort of basin, which forms the centre of the mountain. 
 “ I went to the top of several of them ; but they did not — from 
 “ the most elevated point — appear to answer any better to the 
 “ Mount of the Law, in my opinion, than they had done from 
 “ the plains below. I mention this particularly, because I believe 
 “ that Stanley regrets Gebel Sena should never yet have been 
 “ explored by travellers.” 
 
 Within the Wady Leja are some of those very remarkable 
 inscriptions, written in Sinaitic characters, and so abundant upon 
 the sandstone cliffs of Wady Mokatteb, and in other parts of the 
 peninsula ; and at the mouth of this ravine — where it opens into 
 the plain er-Bahah — are two large gardens, full of fruit trees, 
 belonging to the convent of St. Catharine. “Bephidim” can scarcely 
 be thought identical with Wady Leja ; although the “ Bock of 
 Horeb ” of the monks stands there, with marks of Moses’ rod, and 
 flowing water in its cracks and seams. And here, from Mr. 
 
 Holland’s journal, I add another paragraph, of still deeper interest 
 than even that relating to Mount Sinai : — 
 
200 
 
 MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 “ Near the Gate of Rock, which stands at the eastern 
 “ entrance of Wady Feiran, I observed blocks of sandstone, 
 “ standing on each side of the wady. These masses were often 
 “ perched upon the rocks, at a considerable height ; their top 
 
 “ level being about thirty feet. The only way in which I could 
 “ account for them was this : — The level of sand within the wady 
 “ must formerly have been these thirty feet higher, and was 
 “ gradually washed away during the rainy seasons. Of course, had 
 “ the sand originally been so much deeper in the wady, its present 
 “ fertility could not then have existed ; and if that were the 
 “ case, it would do away with the principal objection now urged 
 “ against Eephidim being located there ; since, in all other respects, 
 “ Wady Feiran answers the requirements of Scripture far better 
 “ than any place assigned as ‘ Meribah ; ’ and where ‘ came Amalek, 
 “ and fought with Israel.’ I was reminded of those walls of 
 
 “ sandstone near Ras Mohammed ; which seemed to be a conglo- 
 “ merate of loose desert sand, eaten away by the action of water ; 
 “ and these sandstone blocks in Wady Feiran were, to all appear- 
 
 “ ance, exactly of the same nature. I do not know that these 
 
 “ masses of sandstone have yet been mentioned by any traveller ; 
 “ and I cannot help thinking they might prove of some importance 
 
 “ in fixing the route of the Israelites. They extend, at intervals, 
 
 “ for some distance along the wady, and their top level is of the 
 
 “ same height, so far as I coidd judge. As we entered Wady 
 
 “ Feiran, our Arabs pointed out a detached rock — lying on our 
 “ right, within the wady — and which they called Hadjar er-Rakab, 
 “ but could not tell us why it was so called.” 
 
 Last night was very cold ; and a keen north wind continued 
 blowing until noon to-day, although the sun shone brightly. The 
 Bedouin in the neighbourhood of Gcbel Musa — whose encampment 
 was at no great distance from our own — exchanged some angry 
 
WAI)Y FEIIIAN. 
 
 201 
 
 words, and still more furious gestures with our Arabs of the Oulad 
 Said ; claiming most vehemently, as a right, that we should take 
 their camels on from thence to Nakhul, instead of those we have 
 at present. In a short time, we passed Sheikh Salih’s sacred tomb, 
 from which the Wady es-Sheikh derives its well-known name. 
 The building is a rude square hut, constructed merely of loose 
 stones, and surmounted by a conical-shaped whitewashed dome. 
 Every Towara Arab learns to revere this spot, because his fore- 
 fathers have venerated it for ages past ; and annually the tribe 
 assembles here, towards the end of June, to hold a three days’ 
 festival. As we advanced, the wady by degrees showed signs 
 of more fertility ; chiefly evinced by larger tamarisk trees, which 
 grew in thick plantations. There was also a small Towara 
 camp ; beyond which lay horizontal strata of black granite or 
 basalt; rising upon grey rocks, like long, and almost unbroken, lines 
 of demarcation. We crossed wide sandy tracts, gay with wild 
 pigeons, and white flowers of broom, or retem ; and at three p.m. we 
 left the Wady es-Sheikh, and entered Wady Eeiran. Ear to our 
 left, arose that part of Horeb, where the late Abbas Pacha built 
 a summer palace, which he never lived to see completed ; 
 it is now fast disappearing, beneath the plundering hands of the 
 surrounding Bedouin. Mount Serbfd came in sight, more and 
 more grandly — truly majestic, both in size and outline. It is this 
 very view of Serbal — and no wonder — that artists generally prefer 
 to sketch. At half-past three, we reached ’Mbarak’s tents, where 
 the old man bade us welcome, and invited us to dine with him 
 to-morrow. We constantly hear children’s merry voices, and see 
 them playing on the ground, close by. Besides the camels, there 
 are donkeys, goats, and sheep. ’Mbarak’s tent is much the best, 
 and larger than any of the others ; about a dozen are stationed 
 here, and a few more at no great distance off. 
 
202 
 
 WADY FEtRAN. 
 
 Easter , March 31st. — “ The Sabbath was made for man ” — 
 and well may we rejoice that Sunday now falls upon this roasting 
 day, and we have thus escaped a most fatiguing camel journey. 
 Mr. Holland found a wild fig-tree on the mountains ; and kindly 
 gave me a little branch, with two figs nearly ripe upon it. 
 
 The fruit is very small, but is like the cultivated fig in shape, 
 taste, and colour. I shall try, if possible, to preserve it ; but 
 
 these Desert plants, almost invariably, turn to powder. The Arab 
 
 children are remarkably well made and active ; though exceedingly 
 dirty and ill clad ; moreover, they appear as happy as they are 
 strong and healthy. Their heads are closely shaved, except a 
 horn of hair, which stands straight up in front, and has a very 
 droll appearance. Just after sunset — being still the Fast of 
 
 Ramadan — the Sheikh himself came to our camp, and announced 
 to us that dinner was prepared. We forthwith followed him to 
 his tent, about a hundred yards from ours ; threading our way 
 between sharp rocks and kneeling camels ; and stopped for an 
 instant, where a large circle of the Bedouin sat round an 
 enormous bowl of bread, soaked in soft oily butter. This we 
 all tasted, dipping our fingers into the smoking mess, and 
 pronounced it very palatable. ’Mbarak’s tent — resembling, probably, 
 that of good old Abraham — is divided, by a curtain, into two 
 equal parts, in one of which reside the women and children of 
 his family. At first, I went into the Sheikh’s compartment, 
 where, sitting on carpets, we smoked our pipes, and drank a 
 cup of coffee. According to the usages of Arab etiquette, it 
 was expected I should wait for these, until the gentlemen were 
 supplied ; and think myself highly favoured to be allowed such 
 luxuries at all. A little tinkling bell summoned a Hock of goats 
 to the encampment, to be milked and fed ; and one of them 
 walked into the tent, looked round upon the strangers, and went 
 
WADY FE IRAN- 
 
 203 
 
 straight back to his companions. Then came Sheikh ’Mbarak to hand 
 me into his liareem ; where I found his wife and mother ; and a 
 married daughter, with her two half naked children ; besides three 
 other women, who perhaps were slaves ; for they remained quite 
 silent all the evening, seated in the background. The ladies 
 shook me warmly by the hand, making me sit down upon a 
 carpet ; while they piled up cushions for my comfort, tapped me 
 good-humouredly on the shoulder, but without the least familiarity, 
 and did their very utmost to express a cordial welcome. The 
 shaking, and also kissing hands was several times repeated ; and 
 a round tray was brought, containing dinner, and set upon a 
 low stool at our feet. Each of the dishes, three in number, 
 
 was excellent of its kind ; and over them was laid a large thin 
 cake of coarse brown bread, quite freshly baked, and which I 
 thought the best thing of the whole repast ; not to disparage 
 the roast mutton torn in pieces, rice dressed in butter, or a 
 conserve of bruised dates. I could not eat enough to satisfy my 
 hospitable entertainers, who crowded close upon me to enforce 
 
 their words. Of course, there were no knives and forks ; few of 
 the Bedouin women have ever seen them, or could appreciate the 
 cleanliness of their use. These ladies would not touch a single 
 morsel until I had finished ; and then they handed pieces to each 
 other, as they had done to me. Water was poured over our 
 hands before and after dinner, and a square of soap given with 
 it, which was a greater luxury than I at all expected. Next, 
 came the little cups of hot and fragrant coffee. The ladies wore 
 the usual Arab dress of dark blue cloth ; with a black crape 
 
 kuffieh, adorned with coins of gold, upon their heads, and covering 
 the forehead ; while the lower part of their faces was entirely 
 concealed by a thick white muslin kerchief. The two youngest 
 
 had a great variety of ornaments ; very long gold earrings, 
 
204 
 
 WADY FEIRAN. 
 
 bracelets, and necklaces, anklets of gold above their naked feet, 
 and several rows of ivory and coral beads, festooned across 
 the bosom. Their limbs are beautifully formed ; but from the 
 
 nature of their daily occupations, and continual exposure to a 
 scorching sun, the skin feels like a piece of shrivelled parchment. 
 They were delighted with the indignation I expressed at the 
 deceitful conduct of Sheikh Abin-Jeizee, of the Ala win, as 
 contrasted with the good behaviour of ’Mbarak ; Hassan, late 
 ruler of that tribe, being generally accounted very brave, and 
 faithful to his word ; however grasping and unscrupulous with 
 European travellers, when money was at stake. Two parties of 
 
 Towara — each circle gathered round a blazing fire — were placed 
 in front of the Sheikh’s tent ; while goats and sheep passed to 
 
 and fro, exactly as they pleased. The gentlemen’s entertainment 
 was just the same as mine ; and every word they spoke could 
 be distinctly heard within the hareem , a sheet of goat’s hair 
 cloth being the only separation. No effort, therefore, would be 
 
 needed on the part of Sarah ; when she listened, with incredulous 
 astonishment, to that memorable conversation between Abraham 
 and the “Angels,” in her tent upon the Plain of Mamre. I gave 
 these kind and unsophisticated people a few trifling presents, 
 including English needles, which are ahvays particularly acceptable 
 in the East. My boots and stockings attracted much amazement ; 
 but my dark kid gloves were thought extraordinary beyond 
 measure ; they were held up, and turned over ; and then my 
 hands were thoroughly examined — with peals of laughter and 
 “ Mashallahs ” innumerable. My husband was permitted for one 
 moment to appear, when the time came for our departure ; but 
 our unmarried friends were all considered “ dangerous.” ’Mbarak 
 must have entertained this evening, fifty Towara Arabs of the 
 Oulad Said, at any rate. He bought three sheep for die occasion ; 
 
WADY EL-BURK. 
 
 205 
 
 the whole of which were cooked ; and no one who has had 
 experience of Bedouin appetites, when feasting upon animal food — 
 a rare indulgence, kept for State events — can doubt that not a 
 single scrap remained of these, but skin and bones. To light us 
 safely homeward through the darkness, the Sheikh had pulled up 
 by the roots a thorny bush ; and setting it on fire, threw it 
 precisely midway ; our servants also carried lanterns, there being 
 several rocks and camels “ couchant ” to avoid. 
 
 Easter Monday , April ls£. — We were fairly off by six a.m., the 
 children running after us and calling out for backsheesh. Far 
 distant, on the right, rose mighty Gebel Serbfd ; and, within half 
 an hour, our four companions turned in that direction, to visit 
 the most interesting, and singularly fertile, district of Feiran ; the 
 route by which we formerly approached Mount Sinai. Soon 
 afterwards, we were accosted by a friendly Arab sheikh, whose 
 tents stood close at hand ; and who invited us to remain until 
 the evening, and accept his hospitality by dining with him. It was 
 rather difficult to explain, that we were merely travellers, desirous 
 of hastening onward to reach a certain pomt ; the Arabs never 
 have been taught to value time, and think a short delay not of 
 the least importance. The sun was generally very hot to-day, 
 and our course continued steadily north-west. Flocks of sheep 
 and goats denoted, as we rode along, some increase in the 
 population ; and at one part of our journey, enormous rabbits 
 seemed extremely tame and plentiful. We passed a dreary -looking 
 cemetery ; and then we crossed a desolate uneven tract, completely 
 covered over with loose stones. To this, succeeded a long and 
 narrow wady, called el-Burk — “ The Lightning ” — apparently shut 
 in by granite mountains ; and where we found the tents already 
 pitched in a comfortably enclosed nook, at half-past four p.m. 
 Immediately behind our camp, rises a lofty eminence ; one mass 
 
206 
 
 SURABIT EL-KHADIM. 
 
 of smooth grey rock, and very curiously rounded ; to all appear- 
 ance, resembling draperies blown out by the wind. Neighbouring 
 flocks assure us that some Bedouin tents are near. • 
 
 Tuesday , April 2nd . — We had a quiet rest, and much enjoyed 
 our early walk this morning. Numbers of pretty flowers, lilac, 
 yellow, pink, and white, are flourishing for a brief season in this 
 picturesque and sheltered wady ; where our tired camels must last 
 night have found delicious pasturage. Besides abundance of white 
 broom, there are little blue “ Forget-me-nots,” and plenty of small 
 yellow crocuses ; even the common dandelion grows here and there. 
 We soon came to another cemetery, more carefully arranged, and not 
 nearly so much neglected, as the burial-ground I mentioned yester- 
 day. A tuft of grass, or of some Desert herb, was planted at the head 
 and foot of almost every grave. There are few cemeteries of any 
 size in the Peninsula, but very many solitary graves. ’Mbarak suffers 
 dreadfully from rheumatism in his shoulder ; and strange, indeed, appears 
 the remedy he some days ago adopted. He begged from me a carpet 
 pin, to bleed himself ; and when I ventured to suggest, in preference, 
 a large-sized needle, he took them both ; but evidently preferred 
 the pin ! A daily annoyance are the myriads of ants ; sometimes 
 more than an inch in length ; but happily they do not climb into our 
 beds ; their bite is venomous, and I am told they have the taste of 
 aromatic vinegar. Their habit is to burrow in the ground, instead of 
 building hills upon its surface. Before noon, we descended into a wild 
 and dismal valley, our course north-west, by a steep, winding, and fear- 
 fully rugged pass ; where the wind blew sharply, and in fitful gusts, 
 filling the air with clouds of loose light sand. A very short time before 
 arriving at Surabit el-Khadim, and almost beneath our dromedaries’ 
 feet, a snake was crawling on the ground ; it was of light yellow 
 colour, and about four feet long. The Arabs are occasionally bitten 
 by these snakes, and seem to dread them very much as venomous ; 
 
SURABIT EL-KHADIM. 
 
 207 
 
 but they do not bite the camels, although the latter are exceedingly 
 afraid when they are near. We rested in the hollow of a very high 
 and overhanging sandstone rock ; where I remained two hours and 
 a half in charge of two of our own Bedouin ; the camels browsing 
 sparely upon the scattered tufts of ghurkud, which grew within this 
 nearly barren Wady Suwuk. The atmosphere was sultry, compared 
 with the strong breezes we had experienced an hour before. My 
 husband, accompanied by Sheikh ’Mbarak and our dragoman, 
 ascended to the celebrated Pharaohnic monuments, and copper mines 
 — if such they really were. The mountain is 700 feet in height, 
 commanding from its summit a beautiful and far-extended view — 
 including Gebel Serbal, and the highest peaks of Gebel Musa and 
 St. Catherine. The ascent was more fatiguing, and even dangerous, 
 than they at all anticipated ; but I shall give the extract from my 
 husband’s journal, which describes the whole excursion. 
 
 “ On leaving the plain our course lay north-west up a loose 
 “ sandy hill, for about ten minutes ; a most fatiguing walk, as the 
 “ sand gave way each step we took ; so that very often we made 
 “ a retrograde movement. This steep hill was most probably formed 
 “ by the lightness of the sand, drifted by high winds across the 
 “ plain against the hard rock, to the depth of many feet. Turning 
 “ west we came to a rugged table chain of granite rock on our left, 
 “ towering high above us ; perpendicular cliffs of sharp red granite ; 
 “ so smooth that the dragoman, who had taken a course of his own 
 “ to reach the summit of the mountain before me, after struggling 
 “ against unseen difficulties to gain a firm footing for about 200 feet, 
 “ was obliged to give up his attempt, and come down and take the 
 “ same track which the Sheikh and myself were pursuing. After we 
 “ had proceeded over sharp pointed rocks, which cut great holes in 
 “ our shoes, we came to a steep cliff, with a narrow path, twenty-two 
 “ inches wide ; the rock overhanging so much and so low to the 
 
208 
 
 SURABIT EL-KHADIM. 
 
 “ path itself, that we were obliged to creep on our hands and knees 
 “ a distance of more than fifty yards, to enable us to reach the next 
 “ rock, which was nearly flat on the top ; proceeding over this, we 
 “ came to an irregular mass of pointed rocks, with a small level space 
 “ of about ten feet between each of them. To reach every table surface 
 “ we had to jump down about eight feet, and then to climb up to the 
 “ next steep ; this occurred upwards of twenty times ; proceeding a 
 “ short distance, still ascending higher up the mountain, we arrived at a 
 “ small plain, of about thirty feet wide. Here, there was herbage and 
 “ rich green grass, and the dry bed of a winter stream of water ; we re- 
 “ mained at this spot for a few moments to take rest, for I had suffered 
 “ much from the exertion : a little water, and a spoonful of brandy 
 “ in it, made me ‘ all right ; ’ and we started again for the ascent. 
 “ We then came to a steep and quite perpendicular cliff ; there was no 
 “ path ; but clinging to its sharp sides with our hands — our feet 
 “ finding a notch in the side of the rock to support us as we progressed 
 “ — we came to a sloping side of the mountain, with deep fissures, 
 “ and pieces broken off as if by some mighty convulsion of nature ; 
 “ down this slope the winter rains run, and in the cracks I found 
 “ many turquoises, which I dug out with my knife. Still further 
 “ on, we came to more sharp rugged rocks — from one to the other 
 “ too far to jump ; and, therefore, we had to descend the one to reach 
 “ the next, and to climb up that as before ; we then came to a lofty 
 “ overhanging cliff without any pathway. Here I hesitated, doubting 
 “ the correctness of my Arab guide ; but the Sheikh so positively 
 “ affirmed that he was in the right direction for the summit, and 
 “ spoke with such earnestness, that I followed him ; further progress 
 “ seemed impossible ; the cliff overhung the only passage so very 
 “ much, that by crawling over the sharp granite rocks, was the sole 
 “ method of proceeding. Added to this, the only thing like a path 
 “ was so narrow, that we stood a good chance of slipping, and falling 
 
SURABIT EL-KHADIM. 
 
 209 
 
 “ into the deep chasm of sharp pointed rocks, upwards of two 
 “ hundred feet below. This hazardous pathway passed in safety, 
 “ the way to the top of the mountain was now comparatively 
 “ easy. In the recesses of the rocks around were many ancient 
 “ tombs, with inscriptions upon them ; proceeding south, the way 
 “ was up a sloping hill side ; arriving on the summit of Surabit 
 “ el-Kkadim, we found ourselves in an ancient cemetery — grave- 
 “ stones in every direction, and in innumerable quantity — in 
 “ one part there were between thirty and forty placed upright ; 
 “ one that I measured was ten feet high, two feet wide, and eighteen 
 “ inches thick, with twenty-six lines of hieroglyphics ; another was 
 “ of the same dimensions, but with only thirteen lines — both were 
 “ in the highest state of preservation — the characters as sharp as if 
 “ only chiselled yesterday. To the left of this cemetery were the 
 “ ruins of an Egyptian temple ; the doorway and central columns were 
 “ hewn out of the solid rock ; all the other parts of the building 
 “ were thrown down, and lay in shapeless heaps around. Looking 
 “ south-east far distant, the lofty Mount St. Catharine ; with Sinai, 
 “ apparently, from where I stood, midway up its dark and craggy 
 “ side ; and to the right of these, Mount Serbal towered high above 
 “ the chain of mountain peaks, standing as it were alone ; and clad 
 “ in purple robes, the grandest of them all, in the vast plain below. 
 “ I stood in silent admiration on the scene around ; I had never seen 
 “ so much of wondrous nature — sublimely beautiful — at one view 
 “ before. All around was silent barrenness, and the wildest desolation. 
 “ The ascent occupied one hour and a half of severe fatigue and labour ; 
 “ hour, but I was amply repaid for the exertion. After resting half an 
 “ we commenced the descent, by nearly the same route we had before 
 “ taken. The looseness and almost crumbling state of the stones in 
 “ our path made the descent, at times, a matter for precaution against 
 “ slipping into the depths below. All, however, passed off well ; and 
 
210 
 
 THE DESERT. 
 
 “ in one hour and a quarter we rejoined the caravan, which had halted 
 “ in the Wady Suwuk.” 
 
 I had taken especial care that the leathern water-bottle should 
 be safe when they returned ; but — still that horrid “ Ramadan ” — 
 our Sheikh would not allow himself to taste one drop of its contents, 
 exhausted as he was, and almost dying of thirst, until the sun 
 went down, some four hours afterwards. Those only, who have 
 known the value of such a good restorative in these hot climates, 
 can fully realise what amount of suffering this privation must entail. 
 Crossing the sandy plain, we reached our tents at four r.M. The 
 caravan having travelled by a longer, but much more easy route than 
 ours, we had some difficulty in finding it among the rocks, without 
 a guide. 
 
 Wednesday, April or el. — As we were leaving our encampment 
 in the Wady Suwuk, some Arabs brought turquoises to sell, but 
 
 none of them so large as those my husband picked up yesterday 
 at Surabit el-Khadim ; and what really tempted me the most to 
 purchase, was the prettiest gazelle I ever saw ; but with thousands 
 of long miles before us, both by sea and land, I should have 
 very little chance of conveying it to England. For what reason — 
 if any there could be — I do not know ; but to-day we heard a 
 more than ordinary noise and wrangling, when our tents were 
 struck and camels loaded. One would naturally suppose that the 
 different packages and boxes were apportioned beyond much 
 dispute by this time ; and yet, I do not think the journey could 
 proceed without these evanescent quarrels, almost every day at 
 
 starting. We walked until the sand became so deep that the 
 
 exertion was fatiguing. Footprints of rabbits and gazelles were 
 
 very frequent ; and the trail of serpents proved that they were 
 numerous also. This morning was much cooler than the night 
 had been. We all felt tired ; even our Arabs, and the camels 
 
GEBEL NAK^B EL-RACIIINEH. 
 
 211 
 
 too, seemed far less active and alert than usual. I had not felt 
 so overcome with languor, at any previous period of this journey, 
 and soon went fast asleep upon my dromedary. A fall was the 
 inevitable result of such imprudence ; the immediate cause of 
 which appeared to be the sudden shying of my ungainly steed, 
 who was alarmed by a formidable serpent. Providentially, I 
 tumbled on soft sand, and was picked up unhurt ; having glided 
 from my lofty seat so gently, that for some minutes I knew not 
 what had happened, and fancied we were rolling over and over 
 into an interminable abyss. Paolo was most anxious to persuade 
 me I had fallen on my head ; if in truth I did so, I must 
 have had a marvellous escape. Soon after this little accident 
 occurred, we began the very steep and difficult ascent of Gebel 
 Nakub el-Rachineh, part of the Tih mountains in their western 
 range, and which extends downwards to the Dead Sea coast. 
 This rugged pass was fearfully precipitous ; the sloping pathways 
 were so winding, and often so exceedingly narrow, it was wonderful 
 how the awkward camels, with their ponderous loads, could ever 
 obtain a footing, or escape being dashed to pieces. The riders 
 
 nearly all dismounted ; for the danger was increased by sudden 
 gusts of wind, which blew with such terrific violence — just at 
 the very spots that seemed most critical — we felt in constant 
 dread of being swept down the precipices. At every turn, the 
 views were quite magnificent ; and at the summit of this pass 
 the eye may freely range over the entire peninsula to the westward 
 — with its vast sandy plains and rocky barriers — on to the Gulf 
 of Suez, and the Egyptian mountain boundary ; while, more to the 
 southward, rise the lofty peaks of Serbal, Gebel Musa, and 
 St. Catharine. Never, to weary traveller, was the “ hollow of a 
 rock ” more welcome than to ourselves this day, ere we descended 
 to the northern plain ; a task less hazardous and toilsome than 
 
212 
 
 WADY EL-ARtsH. 
 
 climbing up had been. The faint outline of Judean hills loomed 
 hazily in the distance ; and was hardly to be traced through all 
 the fleecy clouds that fringed the far horizon. Before we crossed 
 Nakub el-Rachineh, there seemed to be a quantity of wool spread 
 everywhere along the summit of the range ; such was the light 
 appearance of these overhanging clouds. Half-way down the pass, 
 we halted at a reservoir, hewn in the sandstone rock, and about 
 thirty feet in length, with a causeway straight across its centre. 
 The water it contained was very muddy, and altogether most 
 untempting ; but the camels drank of it with eagerness, and we 
 thought they never would have finished. Here, for a little while, 
 ’Mbarak took occasion to rest his nearly worn out frame ; he had 
 done his very utmost to help me safely over all the slippery paths ; 
 and cheered my tired and frightened dromedary by gathering 
 herbage for him, wherever any dainty morsel could be found. A 
 few wild palm bushes grow near the reservoir ; but they only serve 
 to render more apparent the general desolation of this barren 
 scenery. The winter’s torrent, rushing impetuously through the 
 sandy soil, has worn a marvellously deep channel — which extends 
 to a considerable distance — and making a very large curve, forms, 
 as it were, a prodigious amphitheatre ; with steps or rows of scats, 
 rising one above the other; the whole so smooth and even, one 
 would suppose that every part was lined and cased with masonry. 
 We pitched our tents in Wady el-Arish, a sterile and unattractive 
 spot ; but the wind has fallen since we came to lower ground, and 
 the air is soft and pleasant. Paolo’s exertions have been very 
 great, and he looks quite knocked up ; this day has been an 
 anxious and laborious one. Our course was first N.W., S.E. for 
 half an hour, and then N.W. again. 
 
 Friday , April 5 th. — The last few nights a heavy dew has 
 fallen — a circumstance which rarely happens in the “Wilderness” — 
 
NAKIIUL. 
 
 213 
 
 and this morning a dense fog continued after sunrise for some 
 hours. The atmosphere was fresh and light, but very far from 
 
 chilly ; and the ground felt firm beneath our feet, as good as 
 possible for walking. The Desert mirage was twice yesterday par- 
 ticularly distinct; one almost thought, that beautiful delusion could 
 amply atone for real uninteresting monotony. We have occa- 
 sionally seen some partridges ; and there has latterly been unusually 
 abundant pasturage ; the camels every moment trying our patience 
 by repeated jerks and stoppages to graze upon it. Indeed, the 
 distant landscape might, perhaps, be designated “ verdant ” now and 
 then; for wherever lowly shrubs abounded, they were plentifully 
 interspersed with stunted tamarisk trees ; which — though not of very 
 lively green — afford a pleasant shelter from both sun and wind, 
 with their sprawling feathery branches, in places where no denser 
 foliage can be found. Nor have we lately been tormented by 
 those enormous ants, or any other insects, that were so very disagree- 
 able for a time. In some parts of the Wady el-Arish, the ground has 
 sunk considerably; and its bare surface, torn in deep pits and 
 chasms, presents a dismally chaotic scene. The sand is tolerably 
 level otherwise, varying alternately from soft to hard ; and the 
 latter generally sprinkled over in large patches with sharp brown 
 flint, is exceedingly distressing to the camels’ unshod spongy feet. 
 From a N.W. course we turned by degrees N.E. ; and found our 
 
 tents pitched near the fortress and walled village, Nakhul ; 
 
 which had been visible for at least two hours, upon tins featureless 
 and dreary plain. We passed, not far from Nakhul, a high 
 
 pyramidal shaped hill, and two or three lower rocky eminences, 
 but not one blade of vegetation could be seen upon them. To 
 our extreme regret, we must exchange both men and camels 
 
 here ; except our Sheikh, and his young nephew Teima, which 
 ensures my keeping the dromedary I now ride. Arabs of the 
 
214 
 
 NAKIIUL. 
 
 Tiaha tribe will be our escort northward. Yesterday, one of them 
 rode up to us, as we sat to eat our luncheon under a tamarisk 
 tree ; he was mounted on a camel, and armed with a long gun 
 and sword — one of those dark-browed individuals we all prefer to 
 meet by daylight. His single attendant was on foot, had a large 
 pistol in his girdle, and carried a water-skin upon his back. 
 Nakhul is an important station for the Mecca pilgrims ; but its 
 “ fortress ” would scarcely be deserving of so grand a name, 
 excepting for the massive battlemented walls, and its rather elevated 
 situation upon a slope of rising ground. Here, are located — to 
 protect the pilgrim caravans, and overawe the neighbouring Bedouin — 
 a Turkish Governor of rank, with a detachment of Said Pacha’s 
 soldiery. A more desolate place of exile, go where one may, in 
 all the world, can hardly be imagined; and the present Governor, 
 who appears intelligent for a Turk, was at this post when we made 
 our former journey through Arabia Petrua. The wretched village 
 is inhabited by soldiers’ families, and a few of the Tiaha Arabs ; 
 who, living thus entirely under military control, appear quiet enough 
 and very harmless ; but Paolo does not like them to come near our 
 tents, prognosticating all kinds of evil doings from their espionnage. 
 The wind blows hard, and light sand flies about, filling up every 
 crevice ; for there is no snug shelter to be found at Nakhul. My 
 husband called upon “ His Excellency ” when we first arrived, 
 anxious to make arrangements for our further travels ; and an Aga 
 came soon afterwards, to announce the visit being returned at sun- 
 set. The Effendi — such the Governor’s title — complains of being 
 unwell ; and consequently a civil message is all we can expect 
 to-night. 
 
 Saturday , April Gth. — This day has been intensely hot, and for 
 my own part I am glad to rest. Some of the Tiaha camels have 
 already joined the camp ; and to our great surprise, our travelling 
 
NAKHUL. 
 
 215 
 
 companions made such good speed, in their long detour by Gebel 
 Serbal, that they arrived here at eleven this morning. Mr. Leigh 
 has found a young camelion, which I hope he will be able to 
 preserve alive. The Naklml villagers make most delicious bread ; 
 it is better even than the little loaves we purchased at Mount 
 Sinai. No flour in any European country can equal that of Egypt, 
 from whence of course the Desert is supplied. Mbarak was this 
 evening at our tent, summoned to talk over our future journey ; 
 he always looks the beau ideal of a Bedouin chief. His dress is 
 scrupulously clean, and very handsome ; although he seldom wears 
 even sandals on his feet. Over a coarse white linen shirt, he has 
 a kaftan , or long robe, of crimson silk, confined by an amber- 
 coloured satin girdle ; and a thick cloak of black and white striped 
 woollen stuff. He is armed with a short sword, or yataghan, and 
 on his head he wears the usual red cloth cap and large white 
 turban. In manner, he is at all times dignified and unobtrusive, 
 courteous and respectful. By the Egyptian Government he has 
 long been held in special confidence ; having rendered, more than 
 once, important services, by detecting robbers and murderers. 
 A numerous merchant caravan is resting here, en route towards 
 Cairo, to purchase wheat and barley, and sell some of their 
 younger camels. 
 
 Monday , April 8th . — Wady el-Arish, within the Great Desert 
 of Tih. We found the nights at Nakhul very cold, and incessant 
 was the noise and chattering round our tents ; while, just at day- 
 break, the beat of drum was heard, announcing from the garrison 
 that “ Ramadan ” began again. The gentlemen, with our respective 
 dragomen, walked up to the fortress after sunset — how gloriously 
 the sun went down ! — and “ sat within the gate ” till nearly mid- 
 night ; endeavouring, by the Governor’s real or pretended aid, to 
 draw up a satisfactory contract with the Arabs for our further 
 
216 
 
 NAKHUL. 
 
 route. By the meagre light of one dim lamp, and the lurid 
 glare of a large charcoal fire, round which some thirty men 
 were seated; and the indispensable adjuncts of coffee and chibouks — 
 a plausible agreement was, to all appearance, duly ratified ; and 
 the travelling party flattered themselves, very naturally, that all 
 was right ; and nothing then remained, but to load the camels and 
 depart forthwith. Hour after hour tediously passed away ; when 
 the great Sheikh of the Tiaha at last came to our encampment. 
 Vociferation and violent pantomimic gesture, wrangling and earnest 
 persuasion ; on our side only, a vast amount of patient forbear- 
 ance ; and finally, everything essential was arranged. There could 
 be no inducement to remain upon that dreary plain a moment 
 longer than seemed absolutely necessary. The young Tiaha Sheikh 
 who once travelled with us from Nakhul to Gaza — elder brother 
 to the present ruler of that northern tribe — was killed four 
 years ago, in Arab warfare. Much of wearisome and unnecessary 
 delay ; vehement disputing, quarrelling, and even drawing of swords, 
 attended the adjustment of our baggage. The Governor’s son, a 
 mere boy, and several ruffianly-looking soldiers, in red and yellow 
 kuffiehs and striped woollen cloaks, were sent down from the for- 
 tress ; with, very probably, no other motive than to gratify their 
 curiosity ; for they did not in the least attempt to restore quiet 
 or preserve order. The whole populace of Nakliul, with an ample 
 proportion of dirty ragged children, joined the excited throng ; 
 each of them eager to take a part — with noisy tongue , at any 
 rate, if not with hands and arms. The Tiaha Arabs failed, on 
 plea of too short notice, to supply the stipulated number of armed 
 men and camels ; thus our united caravan will yet retain six of 
 the best Towara camels, each with its own accustomed driver. 
 The Tiaha Sheikh is young, and in appearance not very prepos- 
 sessing ; but having recognised authority, makes his escort preferable 
 
DESERT OF t!h. 
 
 217 
 
 to that of any sheikh of lower grade. The Plain continues 
 quite unsheltered, and monotonously uninteresting; but the air was 
 cool and pleasant for our journey, contrasted with the suffocating 
 midday heat and teazing flies at Nakhul. The sand is covered 
 with sharp flinty gravel, in wide extended tracts ; and the camels 
 find abundance of good pasturage. The very tempting aromatic 
 shrubs and tamarisk bushes have caused incessant stoppages, and 
 this day’s progress has been, in consequence, extremely slow ; 
 indeed, we may henceforward expect to see a gradual transition 
 from barrenness to fertility — “a passing from death into life ” — 
 “ that solemn and peaceful melting away of one into the other ” — 
 as Dr. Stanley so beautifully expresses his own ideas when thus 
 approaching Palestine. 
 
 The Tiaha never take with them more than a small quantity 
 of beans, and often none at all, to feed their camels ; but trust, 
 almost entirely, to the herbage of this comparatively fertile district 
 for their support. The animals do not seem to thrive, judging 
 from those in our employment now, upon the scanty food they 
 here obtain ; as they are miserably small and ill-conditioned, and 
 endued with a full share of stubbornness and bad temper. This 
 tribe is, I believe, more wealthy than that of the Towara ; but they 
 are not generally found by travellers to be nearly so obliging. 
 For no consideration, it is said, beyond their free unbiassed will, do 
 they ever hasten on a journey; but always begin and end each 
 day’s march at the very hour they please, entirely to suit their own 
 convenience. Many of these men have short swords, and two or 
 three of them carry pistols in their girdles. They are all armed 
 with guns, four or five feet long, and slung across the shoulders ; so 
 exceedingly clumsy in their make, one would imagine the person who 
 discharges them must incur greater danger than his enemy; and yet 
 these Arabs, from constant practice, cannot be called bad marksmen : 
 
218 
 
 DESERT OF tIh. 
 
 their eyesight is wonderfully far and keen, and they often shoot a 
 “ quail ” or partridge upon the wing, even with such roughly constructed 
 fowling-pieces as these. Among their number, in our caravan, are 
 two middle-aged Ethiopians, black as ebony, and who formerly were 
 slaves ; but now they have received their freedom, married Tialia 
 wives, and been regularly engrafted into the tribe. We saw to- 
 day a piece of ground trenched off, where corn has evidently been 
 sown ; and I have heard this neighbourhood may be reckoned as 
 “ the garden ” of the Tialia district, although infinitely less entitled 
 to that appellation than the really fertile Wady Feiran of the Towara 
 country. Our course, since leaving Nakhul, has continued N.N.E. 
 
 Wednesday , April 1(M. — Wady Mueleh ; still the Great Desert 
 of Till; our course N.E., and the scenery has varied very little 
 for the last few days. Soon after starting yesterday, we made an 
 abrupt descent into a small rock-bound valley, from whence we almost 
 immediately emerged again into the wide and grandly desolate 
 expanse. The distant mountains — higher to the north-west than in 
 any other direction — are, apparently, of no considerable altitude. 
 The early morning air feels always rather cold ; and there has 
 been, alternately, a heating and a cooling breeze ; the former coming 
 suddenly in puffs, like blasts from a hot furnace. The sandy 
 ground, generally very firm, is often thickly overspread with Hint, 
 and sometimes also with black stones, embedded in a chalky 
 matrix, the pieces smoothly rounded, varying in size, and not 
 unffequently resembling broken pottery. Near our encampment 
 yesterday we all remarked the enormous numbers of white snail 
 shells, probably washed thither by the winter floods, which must, 
 iu very rainy seasons, deluge a large proportion of the Plain. We 
 passed this morning through a narrow valley, which looked rather 
 picturesque compared with so much dull monotony for miles and 
 miles around. At its extremity stood a lofty insulated hill, a 
 
DESERT OF Till. 
 
 219 
 
 regular-shaped pyramid in form. The midday heat and glare 
 have latterly been very trying ; unsheltered sandbanks make but 
 sorry noontide resting-places ; and all the better, under present 
 circumstances. We are now entering a “ border ” region ; and the 
 Tiaha Sheikh, Meshalah, requests the caravan to keep together, or 
 he will not answer for our safety from predatory bands of robbers. 
 The frequent tracts of yellow sand we traverse are broken here 
 and there by large flat masses of cretaceous rocks, even iii surface, 
 and of dazzling whiteness. 
 
 A poor lame woman, travelling alone, on foot, to Gaza, has 
 joined our caravan since leaving Nakliul ; and both the Sheikhs 
 seem very kind in giving her bread to eat, and allowing her to 
 ride a camel whenever she is tired. Over a dark blue cotton shirt 
 she wears a scarlet vest, covered with beads, shells, and gilt 
 spangles; to her store of bracelets I have added one of Irish 
 crystal, much to her delight. Her necklace is simply mother-of-pearl, 
 in small triangular pieces;' and the black crape face veil, dotted 
 with spangles and trimmed with festoons of beads and cowrie 
 shells, has a flat ring of mother-of-pearl hanging in the centre, 
 which looks very like a nose ring. A blue cloth cloak entirely 
 envelopes her person from head to foot. Her husband lately died ; 
 and having no children, she is now returning to her native place. 
 Her pipe being the only comfort provided for her journey, she 
 trusts to Bedouin charity for bread and water, and a partial shelter 
 from the cold night air. 
 
 Mr. Leigh has lost his pet cameleori. He put the gaping 
 creature on a bush this morning, intending it should catch a 
 breakfast for itself of flies ; unluckily, a blazing fire was kindled 
 unawares, and certain death must have ensued. Disasters seldom 
 come singly ; for meanwhile, one of the Arabs having caught 
 a land-rail, asked Mr. Holland to buy it from him ; the latter 
 
220 
 
 DESERT OF Till. 
 
 refused at first, but subsequently felt disposed to take the Desert 
 bird, and let it then go free. But most unluckily, his second 
 thoughts, like those of many others, came too late ; and he saw 
 the little victim’s legs upon a heap of smouldering ashes, where 
 the fire had been very lately kindled. The tedious Moslem fast of 
 Ramadan is over now ; and we are more than glad it is concluded, 
 especially for Sheikh ’Mbarak’s sake. Our Arabs were amused, 
 when we encamped, by having a large white crane — which one of 
 them had shot to-day — set up as a target for ball practice with 
 their matchlocks ; they fired from a temporary rest. In one case 
 a too heavy charge had been put into the gun ; and the recoil 
 was thence so great, that the rude contrivance of a piece of iron 
 to hold the match, severely cut the face of a Tiaha Arab who 
 fired it, and blood flowed freely from the wound ; but being 
 dressed immediately, no harm is likely to result from it. Ten 
 neighbouring Bedouin of the Tiaha came after sunset, to visit their 
 friends at our encampment. Some twenty days ago they had been 
 fighting with a hostile tribe, and one of their number had his 
 hand completely severed by a sword cut ; the wounded limb was 
 bound up roughly in a handkerchief. The whole party earnestly 
 implored a remedy, and my husband applied without delay a simple 
 poultice, and dressed the poor man’s wound ; an act of kindness for 
 which they all appeared most truly grateful. We have been looking 
 with admiring eyes to-night at the nearest of our blazing camp 
 fires, and the dark faced Arabs that sit in wide spread circle round 
 it. An iron pot is placed upon the “crackling thorns,” and one 
 of the swarthy Bedouin is constantly employed in fanning the 
 burning embers into increased activity. My handsome camel, the 
 only white one in the caravan, has crouched behind the Sheikh, 
 his master ; while, with head erect, he seemingly enjoys the genial 
 warmth, and fitly enters into that pictorial scene. The Tiaha 
 
DESERT OF Till. 
 
 221 
 
 camels care not, apparently, for their owners, and never voluntarily 
 seek their company. The price of a good camel, in this country, 
 varies from four to seven pounds. Neither the Tiaha Bedouin 
 nor their animals are capable — even if they were willing — of 
 undergoing the same fatigue, day after day, that we observe 
 Towara Arabs and their camels can easily endure. Moreover, a 
 Tiaha makes no scruple of occasionally scrambling up behind upon 
 his own camel, and without a moment’s notice — whoever may be 
 riding it; and I need not dwell upon objections to such very 
 close proximity, which would inevitably be urged in vain. We 
 have been ten hours en route to-day ; the Arabs had not a drop 
 of water left ; and we accordingly proceeded onwards until we 
 found a rather brackish well. Shortly before arriving here, we 
 passed two ordinary burial-grounds. Evidences of tremendous 
 torrents, during the winter season, are extensively apparent in hard 
 conglomerate of sand and gravel, so regularly disposed as to 
 resemble ruins of an ancient town, and reminding one very 
 strongly of Pompeii — if the latter were entirely bereft of colouring. 
 
 The wandering Arabs are not generally fond of music, although 
 we have a Bedouin Piper at present in our company. His skill 
 as a performer is not by any means surprising on the whole ; 
 and yet, he now and then produces some sweet notes from his 
 very rudely constructed instrument. This common reed pipe has 
 live small holes bored in it, one below the other, at the end ; 
 but one of them has been designedly filled up with rag. ’Mbarak’s 
 brother, perceiving his new camel walked a little lame, took a 
 strange mode of trying to cure him, by tearing off a strip of 
 cotton from his shirt, and tying it loosely round the animal’s tail 
 — merely as a sort of charm! Before we quitted Nakhul, there 
 had been violent disputing between the Sheikh of the Tiaha and 
 a minor chieftain of that tribe ; on which occasion Meshalah 
 
222 
 
 DESERT OF Tilt. 
 
 struck his follower an insulting blow. This injury had never been 
 forgotten; and a favourable opportunity was sought to take the 
 Sheikh’s life in revenge. Our dragoman heard of what had 
 
 happened ; and knowing thoroughly the Arab character, he suspected 
 mischief might occur ere long. The belligerents were called into 
 his tent, where the story they both had to tell was patiently and 
 calmly heard. At last, these two sworn enemies embraced and 
 kissed each other ; Paolo presenting the beaten Arab with a Spanish 
 dollar, to compensate for all his wrongs ! Such reconciliations never 
 can be trusted ; too often does the very first temptation serve 
 effectually to break them through. These Tiaha appear by 
 inclination quarrelsome ; and when roused to anger, they seldom 
 spend much time in idle words, but draw their swords at once. 
 
 Of this intemperate spirit we had an early proof ; although, in 
 that particular instance, Meshalah promptly interfered, and thus 
 prevented bloodshed ; just as ’Mbarak acted in a similar case, with 
 the Towara, the day subsequent to our leaving Cairo. 
 
 Thursday , April 11th. — This morning we were obliged to wait 
 until half-past seven, before starting. The camels had wandered far 
 and wide amid the tempting pasturage of Wady Mueleh, and it was 
 very difficult to reassemble them. Some of our Arabs pursued the 
 truant animals on foot ; and a few others were mounted, chasing 
 them at full gallop. There was a shallow stream of brackish water 
 
 near the well ; a vulture hovered by it, and one of the party shot 
 
 a snipe, exactly like an English one. To-day we have seen a great 
 number of cranes, and several partridges — or grouse — for they 
 equally resemble both those birds. Three large snakes also have 
 crossed our path — one of them was even thicker than a man’s 
 arm — and Mr. Holland killed a scorpion, which he found under a 
 piece of rock. Nevertheless, we were delighted with the increasing 
 verdure, so evident on this day’s march ; excepting only the rather 
 
WILDERNESS OF BEERSIIEBA. 
 
 223 
 
 wearisome delay it caused to let the camels feast upon the rich new 
 grass and lovely flowers, that continually lay spread — like a gorgeous, 
 many-coloured carpet — for countless acres round them. Occasionally 
 the scene was varied by separate belts and patches of the liveliest 
 green, and gay parterres , that would adorn the very best of English 
 gardens. Lilac convolvuli ; bright scarlet anemones and ranunculi ; a 
 pretty little lilac flower, spreading along the ground, and throwing 
 out suckers, like the strawberry plant ; orchids ; and an endless 
 variety of other plants and flowers — red, yellow, blue, white, and lilac 
 
 I 
 
 — with our own modest English daisy, here flourish luxuriantly, 
 for only a few short weeks, in very early spring : a welcome sight 
 to wayworn Desert pilgrims, such as those who looked upon this 
 almost “ fairy land ” to-day. We saw some herds of camels pasturing, 
 and observed several large holes dug in the ground, which were the 
 trap-door entrances to magazines of corn. A roughly built hut or 
 tent stood near at hand, wherein a watchman always dwells, to guard 
 these very valuable stores. A Bedouin cemetery, which contained a 
 holy Dervish’s tomb, was on our right ; it was as rude a structure 
 as one can well imagine ; but, notwithstanding, held in much honour 
 by the Tiaha, who each tore off a strip of cotton from his already 
 ragged shirt, and hung the tattered fragment as an offering upon 
 the grave. This fertile district everywhere bears evidence of corn 
 being largely cultivated ; and in very many places there are fields, 
 divided from each other by low stone walls or causeways, and 
 surrounded by narrow channels for conducting rain-water. Within 
 Wady Shueit, Wilderness of Beersheba, and close by our encamp- 
 ment — where we arrived at half-past two, P.M., our arbitrary Sheikh 
 not allowing the caravan to proceed further — are vestiges of an 
 ancient town or village; but all is nearly level with the ground. 
 Mr. Holland found some ice plant here. 
 
 Friday , April 12th. — At the end of a fatiguing journey, — our 
 
224 
 
 WILDERNESS OF BEERSIIEBA. 
 
 course N.E., — the tents are pitched in Wady Lassan, which 
 falls, at no great distance, into Wady Gerur ; this latter name 
 suggesting forcibly the Scripture “ Gerar ; ” which place was situated, 
 we are told, “ in the south country, and . . . between Kadesli and 
 Shur.” This day we all consider to be the hottest we have ever 
 known ; for the sun glowed fiercely overhead, and there was scarcely 
 a breath of air till evening. Our companions described a Bedouin 
 sword dance, which was performed in their division of the camp last 
 night, as being much more graceful than the dances one so often 
 witnesses in Egypt, among the Arab boatmen on the Nile. Some 
 men stood in a circle, holding each other’s hands, while the 
 swordsman — with a sort of backward movement — brandished his 
 weapon very cleverly before them. Eavens were hovering round 
 our temporary home this morning, at a very early hour ; they are 
 the first that we have seen since leaving Europe. The grasshoppers 
 appear still more enormous, in proportion, than the Desert ants, 
 which are again beyond description numerous. Large mole-hills rise 
 in multitudes upon the sandy ground ; and look exactly like inverted 
 basons of common earthenware, fresh from the potter’s hands, all 
 ready for the furnace. The seldom broken solitude we have so 
 long experienced is now entirely at an end; we meet men, women, 
 and children in abundance, with their Hocks and herds ; and now 
 and then we pass a few black tents, though not so many as there 
 are people to require them. But, from prudential motives, they 
 are generally kept, as much as possible, out of sight ; and placed 
 in sheltered nooks, or unfrequented glens. Towards noon — in 
 Wady Abyad — we came to a prodigious cairn, at which the 
 Arabs shouted very loud and angrily ; throwing great heaps of 
 sand and stones upon the pile, with all their might and main. 
 This was the burial-place of Sheikh Amri, who wished to be 
 accounted as the holiest of saints ; but in truth, the Bedouin say, 
 
WILDERNESS OF BEERSIIEBA. 
 
 225 
 
 he very ill deserved such reputation. When this said Amri died, 
 the body was brought hither for interment ; and ever since that 
 time, his memory has been thus dishonoured and insulted by every 
 passer-by. Whoever dare neglect to pay his share of violent abuse, 
 by which alone the “evil genius” is kept quiet, is sure to meet 
 with dire misfortune very speedily ! Soon afterwards a noble looking 
 Bedouin joined us; he was mounted on a beautiful white mare — 
 a perfect picture of the Desert chief — such as imagination always 
 would portray the outward bearing of that most attractively romantic 
 character. Gracefully saluting us, and asking a few ordinary questions, 
 he then turned off in quite an opposite direction, vanished in a moment, 
 and returned to us no more. Arabs, riding donkeys — on which 
 were closely packed guns, swords, and staves — themselves wrapped 
 up in cloaks and silk Jcuffiehs, bound with a rope of camel’s hair ; 
 every now and then passed quickly by. 
 
 The Azdzimeh, a rather numerous tribe inhabiting this district, 
 are busily preparing fields of great extent for sowing crops of 
 dhura. Tiaha Bedouin also grow large tracts of corn in this locality, 
 and rear vast numbers of young camels upon these rich pasture 
 lands of Abraham and Isaac ; although their usual dwelling-place is 
 much nearer to El-Arish. Mount Carmel of the “south country,” 
 where churlish Nabal fed his flocks, and held his annual sheep- 
 shearing — but now the haunt of leopards, which are often caught, 
 and valued for their skins ; and the rocky hills that border all the 
 southern frontier of Judea — including the bleak Wilderness of Engedi, 
 scene of the youthful David’s wanderings, when he fled from the 
 malice of King Saul ; who hunted him from place to place, among 
 “ wild goats,” and like a timid “ partridge in the mountains ” — bound 
 the north-east horizon in a long line of almost undefined summits. 
 We passed through ruins of a small town about eleven a.m. ; beyond 
 which lay another, much more extensive — where we made our 
 
 Q 
 
22(5 
 
 WELLS OF BEERSHEBA. 
 
 noonday halt, beneath the shadow of a ruined building. The walls 
 had fallen in, but quite sufficient still remained to support some 
 part of its domed roof, which had several little windows in it ; there 
 were also traces of a flight of steps. Not far distant from this 
 edifice is an ancient well — circular in form — containing cool, 
 refreshing water ; but very muddy, and full of tadpoles. It is 
 certainly most wonderful how all fastidious notions melt away when 
 one feels roasted to a cinder, and nearly overcome with burning thirst. 
 Two large black crows stood watching us at luncheon — presiding 
 genii of this lonely spot, within the Wady Rehaibeh. Dr. Stewart 
 appears to have no doubt that Isaac dug this well — “ Rehoboth ” — 
 when driven away from Gerar by the rude herdsmen of 
 Abimelech. This town must once have been important, to judge from 
 the extent of ground it occupied. Immediately beyond the ruins 
 we saw enormous herds of camels, of all ages, and in beautiful 
 condition ; a few splendid horses were among them. These animals 
 belonged to the Azazimeh. They certainly had grass and herbage in 
 abundance ; and that “ goodly venison ” — so keenly relished by poor 
 old Isaac, when he became infirm and blind — might easily be 
 found in all its fatness here. Before encamping for the night, we 
 
 rode through the remains of another city of considerable size, now 
 called Khalasa, and identified by Dr. Robinson with “ Eleusa.” 
 Fragments of stone cornices, and broken pieces of sculptured columns, 
 lie scattered over a very wide-spread area ; the overthrow is so 
 complete that not a single edifice can be seen. In spite of constant 
 quarrying, vast quantities of hewn stones are strewed in all directions ; 
 many of the latter — as foundation walls and lines of demarcation — 
 still remain in situ. There are some vestiges of an aqueduct ; and 
 also a ruined well, with stone troughs near it. Strict watch is kept 
 around the camp ; our camels forming an immensely strong and 
 close-packed circle of enclosure. In patriarchal times the haughty 
 
WELLS OF BEERSHEBA. 
 
 227 
 
 Philistines ruled all along this verdant “border plain;” while lawless 
 Bedouin hold dominion over every acre at the present day. 
 
 Saturday , April 13 th . — Our guards determined not to sleep, and 
 hour after hour they talked incessantly. The floors of each tent 
 swarmed with large ants ; and huge-winged beetles — true “ scarabasi ” 
 of Egypt — jet black and glossy — buzzed all night long, and beat 
 outside upon the canvas tents. The scenery has been in general 
 more undulating than for some time past ; gazelle tracks are very 
 frequent ; and rabbits seem particularly plentiful, and of prodigious 
 size. Our course continues invariably N.E. ; and this evening we 
 encamped in Wady Khalil, a narrow plain, leading directly from 
 Beersheba. A gentle breeze rendered the heat less overpowering 
 to-day than yesterday ; and now, we have reached a pleasant “ land 
 of brooks and fountains ” of the purest water ; a luxury we have 
 learnt to prize beyond all other comforts. At midday, to our extreme 
 delight, we rested — it might, perhaps, be for an hour, but far too 
 rapidly the time sped by — at the ancient wells, which Abraham 
 and Isaac made; when, in the world’s young days, they pitched 
 their tents upon this pasture ground, and “ dwelt ” together “ at Beer- 
 sheba ; ” seeing, by unclouded Faith, the precious Promises, that were 
 still “afar off;” sworn by Jehovah’s oath to them, and to their 
 countless seed — like the bright starry host, or sand upon the shore, 
 in multitude. 
 
 Heated as we all were, when we at first dismounted, the temptation 
 was too great to be resisted, that we should drink of the pure, 
 deliciously cool water. The Arabs naturally value this inestimable 
 treasure ; prized no less dearly by those good old patriarchs, to whom 
 we owe the preservation of a better Fountain ; so far, at least, as 
 human agency was concerned in its safe keeping. There are two 
 wells here now, both circular in shape ; and at the present time 
 their depth, down to the surface of the water, is exactly twenty- 
 
228 
 
 BEER SHEBA. 
 
 six feet. The winter torrents in this long wady must be very great, 
 fed by innumerable swollen streams from the Judean mountains ; 
 and at that period these wells are probably quite full to overflowing. 
 About a hundred yards apart, they are excavated in the rock ; and 
 cased with large hewn stones, firmly united by a strong cement, which 
 vary in their length from sixteen to eighteen inches. The constant use 
 for ages of a rope for drawing water has worn a groove within the 
 kerb-stone, and that immediately below it, nearly five inches deep. 
 No wonder that the act of digging wells, for the way-worn traveller’s 
 refreshment in “ a dry and thirsty land,” should be deemed by Eastern 
 nations as meritorious in a high degree. Of these famous Wells of 
 Beersheba, the largest measures more than twelve feet in diameter ; 
 and the other, five feet. Fourteen stone troughs are close at hand, 
 still used for watering flocks and herds, and each cut rudely from 
 one solid block. With very few exceptions, they are either round 
 or oval ; and, although bearing every mark of age, appear in wonderful 
 preservation. Of course, the wells have frequently been repaired 
 since Abraham, at God’s command, set out from hence to offer up 
 his only son in sacrifice on Mount Moriah ; or since Rebecca bade 
 a sorrowful adieu to Jacob, whom — in just punishment for their 
 joint duplicity — she beheld no more. A city sprung up here, of 
 which some vestiges are seen upon the rising ground. My husband 
 picked up part of an old coin, and fragments of ancient pottery. 
 “ They that swear by the sin of Samaria, and say, Thy God, 0 
 Dan, liveth ; and, The manner of Beersheba liveth ; even they shall 
 fall, and never rise up again.” — Amos viii. 14. The soil is very rich, 
 and short grass has superseded the stunted thorn bushes of the sandy 
 Desert. Our camels may not wander from the camp in search of 
 pasture ; and thus we feel compassionately disposed to tolerate their 
 constant stoppages to graze ; especially upon thistles, which they 
 eat most greedily. Wild onions the Arabs gather in great quantities 
 
APPROACH TO HEBRON. 
 
 229 
 
 for themselves, and think them very wholesome. The hollyhock of 
 our English gardens grows spontaneously here, but it is not now in 
 bloom ; although many other lovely flowers meet the eye, and spring 
 up everywhere — innumerable, and in rich variety. There is not a 
 perch of rock or tiny crevice left unfestooned by wreaths of white 
 convolvuli ; while the bright golden bunches of our homely cowslip 
 adorn more level spots. Well cultivated fields also add their own 
 peculiar beauty to this landscape ; tamely monotonous on the whole, 
 with all its rank luxuriance. Barley is full in ear, but still quite 
 green ; and wheat has nothing more than newly risen blades to show. 
 The emerald verdure of these very early crops contrasts in lively 
 colouring with the otherwise too painful glare upon the yellow ground, 
 and the sickly vegetation of that dreary wilderness we are at present 
 nothing loth to leave behind. Molehills rise up in multitudes, wherever 
 sand is visible ; and small tortoises seem rather plentiful, creeping 
 leisurely along : our Arabs picked up several to-day, but none that 
 were of any value for their shells. Large flocks of goats browsed 
 quietly upon each verdant slope. 
 
 Sunday , April 14 th. — Most unwillingly have we been compelled 
 this day to travel ; our escort will not suffer us to halt. Tall 
 thistles grew around our last night’s camping ground, and also quantities 
 of Spinus Christi ; our blessed Saviour’s Crown of Thorns may well have 
 been constructed from this plant, so hard and sharply pointed are 
 the thorns it bears. We had not ridden very far ere the first olive 
 trees appeared, crowning a steep acclivity ; and, as we proceeded 
 onwards, their number gradually increased, until the hills were almost 
 covered with them. Flowers, in even gayer hues, and more diversified 
 than those of yesterday, clothed the hill sides with gorgeous tapestry, 
 and richly carpeted every acre of the lower ground. Sometimes we 
 saw a bed of bright anemones, a broad patch of white and yellow 
 crocuses, or of cyclamen ; and a very lovely flower, like the common 
 
230 
 
 APPROACH TO HEBRON. 
 
 hedge rose in England, grows luxuriantly wild, in single clumps, 
 or mingling with the stems of other bushes. The Chicory Salvatica (?) 
 
 — distinct from that chicory which Europeans put into their coffee — 
 flourishes in great abundance here. The Bedouin eat this plant, 
 from the root upwards ; its flower is extremely pretty, resembling 
 a small lilac china-aster. Ploughed fields, divided from each other 
 by rude stone walls, became more numerous as the hours passed 
 by. Not only are the valleys mantled, at short intervals, with early 
 crops of wheat and barley, just springing up in all their greenness, 
 but corn is also sown upon the hills ; or upon terraces — relics to 
 prove the former industry of that peculiarly favoured nation to whom 
 this “ goodly land,” by everlasting covenant, of right belongs. Courses 
 of solid masonry rise one above the other, presenting the appearance 
 of a beautifully verdant staircase ; and thus the soil has been effec- 
 tually retained, which, without such wise precaution, must necessarily 
 be washed away by rapid torrents during the winter rains. Here 
 and there, huge blocks of stone, laid singly in long lines, remind 
 one of ancient “ landmarks ; ” which, in all probability, they are ; 
 remaining as originally placed by Jewish hands. Sites of Judean 
 towns — -whose names and memories have for many ages perished 
 
 — may constantly be traced, in all the valleys, and on nearly every 
 hill ; sufficient to attest, beyond dispute, that the “ south country ” 
 was once peopled in proportion to the matchless fertility of its soil. 
 The road — a word but very ill applied — was rough and difficult 
 to-day. Great plains apparently were left behind ; and we continually 
 ascended and descended, hour after hour, dangerously winding paths ; 
 often so steep and dizzy, they seemed more suitable for goats to 
 tread, than for unwieldy awkward camels. But the latter looked 
 unusually patient, as they were very cautiously and slowly led — 
 first, up a toilsome rugged path, and then down a rocky precipice 
 into a deep sunk hollow ; or, perchance, along a narrow, sloping, 
 
APPROACH TO HEBRON. 
 
 231 
 
 slippery ledge of rock ; where not a trace was left of other feet, 
 that might some time ago have gone that way before. With every 
 care, the camels and their drivers sometimes slipped and fell ; but 
 nobody was hurt, nor did any serious accidents occur. Some pretty 
 mountain streams we saw occasionally, and a quantity of rain water 
 still standing in holes within the rocks. Just before we reached the 
 town of Dhoheriyeh, at present little more than a miserable heap 
 of ruins, we passed a number of tolerably good horses grazing ; 
 they belong to a troop of Turkish Irregulars, now stationed here, 
 to keep in check this most unruly population; who very recently 
 rebelled against, and killed their Sheikh, or Governor — belonging 
 to themselves — and also murdered several other people. For these 
 acts of cruelty and insubordination, the offenders and their families 
 were driven from the place forthwith, and all their dwellings were 
 totally demolished. In former years, some local feud prevented 
 the Tiaha Arabs from conducting travellers to Hebron, and the Sheikh 
 of Dhoheriyeh invariably claimed that privilege hi their stead. But 
 things are altered now; although a fresh agreement must be here 
 concluded with the Tiaha — an affair easily settled in ten minutes 
 — but not without the usual noisy clamour and angry gesticulation. 
 The site of Dhoheriyeh is undoubtedly a very ancient one ; but it 
 does not appear to have been yet identified with any Scriptural 
 locality. Built upon an eminence, it was probably a border fortress 
 of the “ hill country ” of Judea. 
 
 Our Sheikh allowed us a few moments only for the midday halt 
 and luncheon ; imploring us to hasten onward, as he could not answer 
 for our safety, on account of all the houseless, well armed fugitives 
 supposed to hover still within this neighbourhood in search of 
 plunder, or desperately desirous of revenge. The mountain scenery 
 was frequently magnificent ; the lights and shadows fell, with exquisite 
 variety, upon alternate barrenness and extreme fertility. The hills 
 
232 
 
 HEBRON. 
 
 were often thickly wooded, while many portions of the lower valleys 
 teemed with waving corn. Herds of horned cattle might be seen 
 at pasture, and flocks of broad tailed sheep ; but far more numerous 
 were the long haired goats, springing from crag to crag, perched 
 singly upon projecting rocks, or browsing quietly together by 
 hundreds. Many of the fellahin were busy in the fields ; others 
 seemed bent steadily on distant errands ; while two or three were 
 weary wanderers, like ourselves. The charcoal burners had just 
 filled enormous bags, which camels were in waiting to convey to 
 Hebron. All the peasantry we saw looked cheerful and contented, 
 and most cordially reciprocated the friendly greetings of our caravan. 
 The weather was delightful, and the mountain air particularly 
 refreshing for our nearly eleven hours’ journey. Half-way between 
 Dhoheriyeh and Hebron, we reached a well of cool delicious water; 
 but we may hope this luxury will not hereafter be of very 
 rare occurrence. Deep caverns in the rocks are visible from time 
 to time ; and pits, dug in the ground, lined neatly with small stones, 
 and circular in form, denote trap doors to granaries of wheat and 
 barley. A little building on our left was said to be a magazine for 
 straw. A “Prophet’s” tomb, or Wely, on a mountain brow, looked 
 
 from a distance rather picturesque. “ Kirjath-Arba, which is 
 Hebron” — “built seven years before Zoan in Egypt” — lies so 
 low down within its rich and fertile Yale of Eshcol, that the ancient 
 city did not come in sight until we reached the summit of a 
 hill called Gebel Obed Janeh, which overhangs the Quarantine 
 ground, where we are now encamped, descending to it by a zigzag, 
 rugged path. The whitewashed buildings of the lazaretto are partly 
 excavated in the solid rock. A sudden shower of rain soon drove 
 away the multitude of people who crowded round the tents ; some 
 of whom had horses to offer us for hire, others brought eatables 
 of different kinds to sell, and the greater number came from mere idle 
 
HEBRON. 
 
 233 
 
 curiosity. The Jews were easily distinguished from the rest ; wearing 
 the common Arab kdftan, but with high-crowned black felt hats, 
 and a single lock of hair on each side the face ; and they alone 
 had wine for sale — made in this “ holy city ” — which we thought 
 excellent. The grapes produced upon these terraced hills are, 
 throughout Palestine, renowned for their superior flavour and 
 enormous size. The vines look very flourishing, and their stems 
 immensely thick ; the tendrils, carefully supported upon stakes or 
 twigs, are just now bursting into leaf, and every vineyard has its 
 lonely watch-tower. The figs are fully formed, but still quite hard 
 and small; and a fair proportion of most other fruit-trees may be 
 seen among them. Mr. Porter estimates the population of modern 
 Hebron at 10,000 souls, 400 or 500 of whom are Jews, chiefly 
 German and Spanish ; the remaining inhabitants are all Moslems, 
 exceedingly turbulent and fanatical. The Jews cling fondly to the 
 very dust of Hebron, as the only spot within the Land of Promise 
 that Abraham, the Friend of God, could ever call his own ; and 
 where the sepulchre remains intact within the Cave of Machpelah, 
 which the Chaldean patriarch purchased for a family burial-place 
 from Ephron the Hittite. The word Machpelah means a “ double 
 cave ; ” and there lie undisturbed those same “ dry bones ” that 
 shall be “ breathed upon,” and “ live ” again ; receiving from the 
 King of Kings their princely heritage — a covenant that has yet to 
 be fulfilled. The ancient town stood higher and more northward 
 than the modern Khalil, which rises upwards from the valley, and 
 spreads out wide along the slope of Gebel Beilun. Crusaders built 
 a Christian church above the sacred cave, upon the ruins of a 
 splendid mausoleum, erected by King Solomon ; which very soon 
 was turned into a mosque by Moslem hands, and named “ Mesjed el 
 Khalil” — Mosque of the Friend of God. For many centuries have 
 neither Jews nor Christians been knowingly allowed to enter within 
 
234 
 
 IIEBRON. 
 
 these holy precincts ; nor can even Moslem devotees, however high 
 their station, indiscriminately gain admittance to the vault beneath ; 
 but must content themselves with seeing marble tombs, which 
 represent the real ones ; each standing, within an “ upper chamber,” 
 over the original sarcophagus below. The exterior of this edifice 
 is in itself remarkable ; and conspicuous from its pointed leaden 
 roof, and massive structure of the outer walls, supported by pilasters 
 without capitals. Its form is oblong, and the lower stones — some 
 of them more than twenty feet in length — are smoothly hewn, 
 united by a thick cement, and bevelled at the edges ; like those 
 seen at Jerusalem, in the eastern corner of the Temple Wall. 
 Tradition dates these ponderous blocks of stone from David’s time ; 
 when he reigned at Hebron seven years and a half, as king over 
 the lion tribe of Judah. Near the main entrance to the mosque 
 — two spacious staircases, built at each angle of the northern 
 wall — a little hole is pierced, .through which the outcast Israelites, 
 on certain days, may look within the enclosure ; kissing the stones, 
 while mournfully they wail, and cliaunt their prayers — towards the 
 sepulchre of six of their great ancestors — Abraham and Sarah, 
 Isaac and Rebecca, Jacob and Leah. A castellated Saracenic wall 
 surmounts the old substructure, with a minaret at each corner ; 
 but two only of the latter now remain complete. An unruly crowd 
 assembled when we ventured to ascend the steps, in hopes of 
 glancing for a moment at the open court ; and, amid general cries 
 for backsheesh , no voice was louder or more importunate than that of 
 a green turbaned dignitary of the sacred liar dm, who ought to have 
 preserved some decorum in himself, if lie could not control the rude 
 populace of Hebron. The town is very large, and the houses are 
 
 substantially built, with small domes rising from their fiat roofs, and 
 gaily painted window shutters. The Sheikh of Hebron, a handsome 
 and intelligent-looking man, visited our camp, and sent a guard of 
 
HEBRON. 
 
 235 
 
 soldiers. Guns fire frequently after sunset, and denote that the 
 authorities dare not slumber at their post ; but everything we see 
 and hear portrays a state of government that cannot long endure. 
 
 Monday , April 14 th . — Whenever close proximity to Hebron is 
 not needful, the travellers’ tents should, if possible, be always 
 pitched upon the Plain of Mamre. The Quarantine ground is a 
 cemetery, each separate grave marked by a circle of rough stones, 
 where funerals constantly take place, and the smell is often most 
 offensive. A burial occurred this afternoon quite close to our 
 encampment. About thirty women, shrouded from head to foot 
 in izzars, or white sheets, advanced in slow procession, and howling 
 dolefully a funeral dirge. Arriving at the grave, they stamped 
 with violence upon the ground, beat it with their hands, and 
 uttered piteous cries. This scene continued for a short time only ; 
 and then these mourners separated, to take their seats apart, 
 although at no great distance. In the course of half an hour, 
 two or three hundred men came in procession from the town ; 
 the bier was carried in the midst; and the dead body, enveloped 
 in a sheet, was completely covered with a carpet. Immediately 
 behind the bier walked thirty blind men, chaunting in very dismal 
 tones. As soon as they had reached the grave, these singers 
 formed into a circle round it, directed by an old white-bearded 
 man, dressed in a long black robe, and with a high white cap, 
 exactly like a sugar loaf. He sang out very loud, and led the 
 movements of the others, as they swayed their bodies to and fro, 
 in the manner of those Dervish zikrs we have seen at Cairo. 
 This ceremony lasted half an hour ; meanwhile the corpse was 
 lowered, and the grave filled up. They then retreated to the 
 distance of a dozen yards ; when they formed into a double file, 
 each of the male mourners shaking hands with them as he retired. 
 At last the Dervishes departed, leaving the women still seated by 
 
236 
 
 HEBRON. 
 
 themselves. This day has been extremely hot, although a few 
 slight showers of rain have fallen ; and, for an hour or two, we 
 closed our tents, to keep away the flies, which here annoy us 
 dreadfully, attracted by the pestiferous odours of the place. We 
 had a grievous parting scene with Sheikh ’Mbarak and his nephew 
 Teima ; nor can we say too much in praise of the Towara Arabs, 
 who have behaved as well as possible from first to last, all through 
 our Desert journey. Reluctantly we saw them winding up the 
 steep ascent, by which we had so slowly and so cautiously descended 
 hither yesterday. The two Tiaha sheikhs, Meshalah and Yahoudi, 
 who escorted us from Nakhul, have been very civil also ; and if 
 they did not always seem obliging, we must make allowance for 
 their district being at present much disturbed, and not quite safe 
 for travelling. 
 
 The two Pools of Hebron are of exceedingly remote antiquity. 
 That to the southward, which is much the largest — being 130 
 feet square, and 50 feet deep — more commonly bears the name 
 of David ; and over it, we may believe, were hanged the murderers 
 of Ishbosheth. These tanks contain a plentiful supply of rain water, 
 and are built round with large hewn stones of ancient Jewish bevel. 
 There is no wall enclosing Hebron ; but the streets are frequently 
 arched over, and the pavement, with broken steps in all directions, 
 is torn up everywhere, and full of holes ; the bazaars are dark and 
 dirty, and very ill supplied. Passing under a low archway, we 
 descended a flight of steps into a vault, kept clean and fairly 
 lighted. Here we were shown the so-called Tomb of J esse ; a 
 mere projection in the wall, apparently, and bearing hardly any 
 resemblance to a sarcophagus ; some Hebrew characters were faintly 
 cut upon it, and — like the Tomb of Abner — its identity is 
 extremely doubtful. The last place we visited at Hebron was 
 the glass manufactory ; the trinkets, lamps, and bottles it produces 
 
OAK OF MAMRE. 
 
 237 
 
 are famous throughout Syria, and even find their way to the 
 bazaars of Cairo. We greatly pitied the poor workmen, whom 
 necessity requires to earn their livelihood by a craft so unsuited 
 to this hot climate ; but they seemed perfectly contented, and 
 were wil lin g to show us all the different processes of glass-blowing, 
 and the mode in which they variegated the colours. It is said 
 the silex that is used here comes direct from Egypt. 
 
 With what absorbing interest do we linger in the Yale of 
 Eshcol ! Its vine clad slopes, rich — as in days of yore — with 
 olive yards and pasture lands ; the favourite camping ground of 
 patriarchal times. The face of Nature still remains unchanged ; 
 the rocks, the fountains, and the bubbling streams are there ; 
 innumerable flocks and herds graze in each hollow, grass-grown 
 nook, or gaily speckle every mountain side. And thus, in part, 
 we realize the blessing Jacob gave to Judah — “ His eyes shall 
 be red with wine, and his teeth white with milk.” Turn where 
 we may, our wandering footsteps tread on sacred ground ; some 
 hallowed spot, where kings, and priests, and prophets loved to roam. 
 The Anakims, of giant race, inherited this portion of the land 
 from Arba, their progenitor ; who originally built the city, and 
 called it by his name. In after years, the Amorites possessed these 
 verdant hills and dales, and changed the city’s name to Mamre. 
 When Joshua’s hosts came hither, this fertile valley fell to Caleb’s 
 share ; but Hebron was allotted to the Levites, and made a chief 
 “ city of refuge ” for the “ south country.” The Oak of Mamre 
 stands nearly a half hour’s distance from the town, and is reached 
 through several groves of very fine old olive trees. The Jews 
 of Hebron are famous for the oil they make, as well as for the 
 excellence of their wine. The venerable “ Oak ” — at any rate, a 
 noble specimen of the quercus ilex — is kept, within a vineyard, 
 with the greatest care. Its young spring leaves are just now 
 
238 
 
 .TOURNEY TO PETRA. 
 
 bursting forth in all their early freshness ; close by, there is a well 
 of cool pure water ; and the surface of the ground being smooth 
 
 and level round the ancient tree, a more agreeable place for an 
 
 encampment could scarcely be selected. Here, in all probability, 
 Abraham — the wealthy shepherd from Chaldea — once pitched his 
 tent, and entertained the “ Angels ; ” and Jerome mentions — in his 
 Commentary on Zechariah — that, after the reduction of Jerusalem 
 by Hadrian, the Roman Emperor, many thousand Jews were sold 
 as slaves, at a great market held beneath this very oak ; if — in 
 
 its present sound condition — we can allow its claim to even that 
 
 far less remote antiquity. A mile from hence are ruins of a 
 
 Christian town, called Kharbet Nazareh. “ Cities of Judah ” — now 
 wasted and desolate, but some day to be built again, and resound 
 “ with joy and singing ” — crown every hill top in grey and 
 shapeless masses ; and Scripture names can frequently be traced in 
 those by which the Arabs call them at the present day. 
 
 Tuesday , April 1 Qth. — At half-past six, this very bright and 
 lovely morning, we started, on horseback, for Jerusalem. The 
 
 Sheikh of Hebron came to bid adieu ; and after he had smoked 
 a pipe and taken a cup of coffee, we talked to him about our 
 future journey ; and left this native governor, with a very good 
 impression, as compared with many others, of his courtesy and 
 general capabilities. We also had an interview with a venerable 
 old Bedouin sheikh, well-dressed and patriarchal in appearance — 
 Hamzeh by name — who fain would have persuaded us to visit 
 Petra, under liis sole escort and protection. The conditions were 
 
 certainly a little hard ; but were endured, only one short month 
 
 ago, by the Ilonble. E. D. O’Brien, and our friend, Captain Ivnox — 
 who allows me to insert his own account of this most enterprising 
 journey. 
 
 Sheikh Hamzeh stipulated that we should travel thirteen hours 
 
JOURNEY TO PETRA. 
 
 239 
 
 each day — on camels — for nine days successively, without tents 
 or baggage ; and to take no provisions but some bread and cheese. 
 That we must be content to sleep under a rock ; or a tree, if we 
 could find one ; and, what is worse than all the rest, run hastily 
 through Petra ; climb quickly to the summit of Mount Hor, to 
 gain a momentary glance at Aaron’s Tomb ; rush down again ; and 
 back, with fastest speed, to Hebron ! 
 
 “ I only regret,” said Captain Knox, in one of his letters, “ that 
 “ you were not so lucky as I was, about Petra. It is a magnificent 
 “ remnant of the past ; and I would gladly go through twice the 
 “ fatigue, to find myself once again among its ruins. O’Brien stuck 
 “ to his work like a man. The first day was a very long one ; 
 “ nineteen hours, without stopping ; in all, we were 136 hours away 
 “ from Hebron, and out of that time we were 108 hours either walking 
 “ or riding. We took nothing with us, but some rice, and a bag of 
 “ coffee ; and the last day, we walked sixteen hours in the heaviest 
 “rain I ever knew; reaching Hebron at 6.30 p.m., without any 
 
 “ of our Arabs. The next morning, when we left, only one of 
 
 “ the camels and two men had arrived. I was quite happy we 
 “ had succeeded ; notwithstanding that everybody had said we 
 “ could not do it in the time. 
 
 “ On my first arrival at Jerusalem, Ali — our dragoman — said 
 “ that he thought, if we could get Abou Dahouk, the Sheikh of 
 “ Hebron, he would be able to take us to Petra. We induced 
 “ the Consul to send for him at once ; but as his camp was about 
 “ five hours from Hebron, they brought to us Sheikh Hamzeh, his 
 
 “ agent, who resides at Hebron ; and, by promising him a large 
 
 “ present, he at last agreed to start from Hebron in two days, 
 “ and bring us back in eight days to Jerusalem. He also agreed 
 “ to go with us himself ; and said that he could take with him 
 “ Montlouk Raschid, brother to one of the Petra sheikhs, who was 
 
240 
 
 JOURNEY TO PETRA. 
 
 “ then staying with the Hebron tribe. I may also add, that 
 “everybody at Jerusalem — natives, travellers, and dragomen — said 
 “ there was no chance of our being able to do it under fifteen 
 “ days. General Valiant, a gentleman who was travelling with his 
 “ wife and daughter, was the only person who believed we should 
 “ succeed. We almost despaired of it ourselves ; as I really was 
 “ obliged to be at Jaffa, to catch the boat, on the ninth day. 
 
 “ Ali — the best fellow I ever saw for work — said, ‘We can 
 
 “ always go four days ; and if we are not there, then turn back ; 
 “ it is quite worth trying ! ’ With no better prospect of success, we 
 “ started. I have written these few lines, to explain in some 
 “ manner my very imperfect journal, which was written in a 
 “ pocket-book, while on my camel ; and has never been revised, 
 “ or even looked at, since my return. Of Petra, I will give you 
 
 “ no description ; as I am sure you must have read so much 
 
 “ from others on the subject.” 
 
 Extract from Captain Knox's Journal. 
 
 “ March 19 th, 1861. — Left Jerusalem at half-past ten; and had 
 “ a very pleasant ride, with the Valiants and Simcock party, as far 
 “ as Bethany ; where we arrived at twelve — and then they left us. 
 “We made a rapid survey all around, and left again in half an 
 “ hour. Arrived at Hebron ten minutes past four ; dined and 
 “ slept at Hamzeh’s. Oh ! why did the fleas torment me so P 
 “ They used to come by twos and threes, but here they came by 
 “ swarms ! 
 
 “ 2,0th. — Held a long consultation as to whether we should go 
 “ or not ; it seemed such a risk ! Should we have time ? At last, 
 
 “ Hamzeh — the agent of Abou Dahouk — said, that if he did not 
 “ take us to Petra, and back to Jerusalem, in eight days, we need 
 “ not pay him ; and this arrangement made, it was determined we 
 
JOURNEY TO PETRA. 
 
 241 
 
 “ should try. We tlierefore started ; having passed a most unpleasant 
 “ night, with little or no sleep, and tormented by the fleas. We 
 “ were ready at a quarter before eight, and began to pack our things 
 “ upon the camels ; when we found, to our disgust, there were two 
 “ saddles only, and no skins to carry water. We were assured that 
 “ we should find them on the road, which we certainly did not. 
 “ After travelling five hours over stony hills, with very little grass 
 “ upon them, we arrived at the encampment of the tribe — Jehalin. 
 “ Here our guide said that we should stop, procure the water-skins and 
 “ saddles, and start again next day. We tried everything we could 
 “ to induce him to go on, declaring that we really had no time to 
 “ spare ; but all was useless. He obstinately persisted in having his 
 “ own way ; still saying he would take us on to Petra, and back 
 “ again, within the given time. So we pitched our little tent ; and 
 “ after luncheon went to sleep, with at least a dozen very rough and 
 “ savage looking Arabs at our tent door, examining all we had, and 
 “ every moment teazing us for 4 Bacca ! ’ This encampment was 
 “ more picturesque than anything I ever saw. It consisted of about 
 “ a hundred and fifty long shed-like tents, made of black or brown 
 “ goat’s-hair mats ; every here and there we could see a pretty little 
 “ kid, frisking about upon the roof, and a troop of Arab children 
 “ endeavouring to drive it down again with sticks. 
 
 Thursday , 21, st. — Up early, but did not get off until half-past 
 “ six. Crossed a very mountainous tract of country ; and did nothing 
 “ but go down the side of one ravine, and up another. But most 
 “ extraordinary was the way in which the Arabs walked along. We 
 “ never stopped all day, and kept our camels going at a kind of 
 “jog-trot; and yet these men, although it was the fast of ‘Ramadan’ 
 “ — when they will neither eat nor drink anything, or even smoke a 
 “ pipe, from sunrise to sunset — were always to be seen in front of 
 “ us. I am sure that, notwithstanding the rough ground, we must 
 
242 
 
 JOURNEY TO PETRA. 
 
 “ have averaged four miles and a half an hour. Just as the sun was 
 “ setting, we came to Sufah (. Zephath ). Old Hamzeh wished to stop ; 
 “ but we pushed on, and after a descent of an hour and a half, we 
 “ reached the bottom of the hill ; but not finding a good place to 
 “ encamp, we went an hour longer, making our day’s work fourteen 
 “ hours. O’Brien was very much tired. After our frugal dinner of 
 “ a little cold boiled rice, and a small cup of coffee, we smoked a 
 “ pipe with the Arabs, as they sat around their fire ; and then, in 
 “ a few moments, all seemed quite forgotten, and we were sound 
 “ asleep. 
 
 “ 22nd. — Got up at five, and were off by six. In about two 
 “ hours we reached Ar’arah ( Aroer ) ; where, finding water, we stopped 
 “ for a few minutes to let the camels drink. Thence, we pushed 
 “ onwards to the hills of Petra, which at every moment seemed 
 “ more distant. In the afternoon, the camels and ourselves, the 
 “ Arabs and our servants, all began to feel exhausted. Never in 
 “ my life, or since I have been travelling in the East, do I remember 
 “ having felt anything like the heat ! At four p.m. we called a 
 “ halt ; saying that we would rest for an hour and a half, have 
 “ something to eat, and then go on to the foot of Gebel Haroun ; 
 “ as we wanted to climb up to the top to see the sun rise, before 
 “ we entered Petra. It began to rain, the ground became very 
 “ slippery, and we encamped at eleven p.m., a good day’s work of 
 “ sixteen hours. 
 
 “ 23 rd. — Awoke at five. It was some minutes before I could 
 “ make up my mind to get up ! Started at a quarter before six, 
 
 “ accompanied by the Petra Arab, whom we had brought with us ; 
 
 “ and, after a stiff walk of three hours and a half, we reached the 
 “ summit of Mount Hor — the view from whence is most magnificent ! 
 
 “ — saw Aaron’s tomb ; and in half an hour we got down to the 
 “ head of the ravine which leads direct to Petra. Here we found 
 
.JOURNEY TO I’ETRA. 
 
 243 
 
 “ Ali and the camels. Moutlouk, our Petra Arab, proposed that we 
 “ should leave the camels ; and that we ourselves should then walk 
 “ on into the famous city by another pass, but very little frequented. 
 “ After spending a very pleasant day among the ruins, as we were 
 “ exploring a narrow glen, passing quietly along in Indian file, 
 “ Moutlouk, who was in front, threw himself suddenly on his face — 
 “ an example we all followed immediately — and made signs to go 
 “ back at once ; saying, he saw the Arabs coming towards us. Our 
 “ luck in having a whole day to ourselves among the ruins, without 
 “ disturbance from the Bedouin, was very great indeed. We soon 
 “ rejoined our camels, and started off again ; determined to put as 
 “ much ground between us and the lawless Arabs of Petra as we 
 “ possibly could manage. When we reached our last night’s camping 
 “ place, we wanted exceedingly to stop ; but, at any price, old Ali 
 “ would not have it ; saying, the Arabs would assuredly find us, and 
 “ we should have our throats cut. Our camels, which had rested 
 “ while we were examining the ruins, seemed at this time pretty 
 “ fresh ; so we pushed on four hours longer. Ali now said, that the 
 “ Arabs could not track us in the dark, and he therefore thought 
 “ we might encamp. Our dinner — a little boiled rice and a cup of good 
 “ coffee — we enjoyed more than anything I ever can remember ; and 
 “ no wonder, as we had been continually on the move from five a.m. 
 “ until eleven p.m. without tasting a smgle morsel. 
 
 “ 24 th. — Up and off at six. Stopped at twelve, got water, and 
 “ dined at four ; and then, as the camels were extremely tired, we 
 “ walked on to Sufah by ten p.m., everybody very much fatigued. 
 
 “ 25 th. — Started, on foot, at ten minutes after six, and reached 
 “ the top of the pass at ten minutes after seven. The camels did 
 “ not arrive there until half-past eight. I do not know how on 
 “ earth we shall get on ! We want to go to Abou Dahouk’s camp 
 “ to-night — thirteen hours — if we can ; as there, we have a chance 
 
244 
 
 JOURNEY TO PETItA. 
 
 “ of getting other camels ; or some horses, donkeys — or anything 
 “ with four legs — to carry us. For the last two days we have had 
 “ nothing to eat, excepting rice ; our cold chickens got quite wet from 
 “ rain, and became so mouldy the next day we could not cat them. 
 “ However, I hope to-day we shall see some of the Arabs, and get 
 “ a kid, or something. Come on ! With much hard work, and a 
 “ little luck, we shall be to-morrow at Jerusalem ! So we toiled on 
 “ all day, and in the evening we ascended hills. The camels did not 
 “ get up for an hour ; and, as the Arabs were sadly tired, we encamped 
 “ at one A.M. 
 
 “ 26th. — Awoke by rain coming down in torrents ; got up quickly, 
 “ and started without anything to eat. We toiled on all the morning, 
 “ and did not get to Abou Dahouk’s camp until eleven a.m. We 
 “ sat for half an hour by the fire, but not a morsel of provisions 
 “ could be had. A son of Abou Dahouk was just dead, and no 
 “ one could attend to us. We therefore started off again, on foot, 
 
 “ and arrived at Hebron at half-past six. O’Brien and Ali were both 
 
 “ extremely tired. In the course of the night, one of the camels 
 “ and two of our Arabs arrived ; all the others had lain down, dead 
 
 “ beat. Such a day’s work as this I never had before ; and the rain 
 
 “ was pouring down in torrents, without ceasing for a moment, 
 “ accompanied by a bitterly cold wind. 
 
 “21th . — We awoke the next morning very much invigorated 
 “ by our good dinner of the night before — having been able to 
 “ procure a kid. After living for six days entirely upon rice and 
 “ coffee, meat was particularly acceptable. Ali had engaged some 
 “ horses for us ; and off we started for Jerusalem, in high spirits at 
 “ having so nearly finished our undertaking ; and which, although 
 “ we were amply repaid by the extreme beauty of Petra, had, in 
 “ itself, been anything but luxurious. Our clothes were still very 
 “ damp, from soaking rain the previous day. However, the sun 
 
HEBIiON. 
 
 245 
 
 “ was shining brightly ; and, although the wind was very cold, we 
 “ hoped, ere long, we should be warm and comfortable. But no ! 
 “ After an hour had passed, the ram set in again, the ground was 
 “ very slippery ; and, in a short time, the cold wind, blowing through 
 “ our tliin clothes, saturated as they were with rain, made us feel so 
 “ miserable and chilly, that we determined to gallop hard for it ; 
 “ even at the hazard of our necks. Spatterdy ! dasherby ! crash ! away 
 “ we went, for about a mile ; when my horse, putting his foot into 
 “ a hole, came down an awful ‘ header ! ’ I laughed, and picked 
 “ up myself, but not so my poor horse ; he could go no further. 
 “ In the morning, I had been unable to put on my boots, because 
 “ they were so wet ; so that I had now to trudge along in a pair 
 “ of slippers ! — not very pleasant, considering it was the muddyest, 
 “ rockyest road I ever saw. I told O’Brien to ride on, and send a 
 “ horse back to me, the moment he should reach Jerusalem ; but, in 
 “ galloping down the next hill, his horse fell also, and broke its neck. 
 “ Once more were both of us reduced to the use of our own legs — 
 “ an alternative I dislike at all times — and so proceeded onwards ; 
 “ not cheerily, perhaps, but steadily ; and walked into the Mediterranean 
 “ Hotel, just as they were sitting down to dinner. General Valiant, 
 “ who always said we should accomplish our trip within the given 
 “ time, had asked the Consul and his wife to dine with him ; and 
 “ I was very glad to find them there, as they never would believe 
 “ we could return so punctually ! ” 
 
 Pretty Jewish children came to look at our encampment breaking 
 up ; and never can I remember to have seen so many picturesque 
 and varied costumes collected all together in so limited a space. An 
 enormous flock of sheep and goats passed straight across the Quarantine 
 ground, to ascend the mountain steeps that bound its western side. 
 We had tolerably good horses ; but as they knew no pace, excepting 
 a quick walk or gallop — and the extremely rocky nature of the 
 
240 
 
 POOLS OF SOLOMON. 
 
 country rendered galloping impossible — our progress was of course 
 a little slow. We rode through narrow valleys, and over limestone 
 ridges. The terraced hills are covered with dwarf oak and other 
 bushes, and wild llowers spring up everywhere. Within live hours 
 we reached the Pools of Solomon. Here, it is generally supposed, 
 was “ Etham ; ” and lower down the valley are some ancient ruins. 
 No one who visits Urtas — the name this bright oasis bears at present — 
 can doubt that the description in Ecclesiastes must apply to this 
 most beautiful and verdant glen. “ I made me great works ; I budded 
 me houses ; I planted me vineyards ; I made me gardens and orchards, 
 and I planted trees in them of all kinds of fruits ; I made me 
 pools of water, to water therewith the wood that bringeth forth 
 trees.” The three great “ tanks ” — such the word Burak signifies, 
 by which they now are called — ranged one below the other in 
 a fine — are inside thoroughly cemented, and collect immense supplies 
 of water. Two or three hundred yards from them, on higher 
 ground, stands an old khan ; and there we rested a short time. 
 These Pools of Solomon — venerable from their high antiquity, 
 and the wondrous magnitude of their construction — are partly 
 excavated in the living rock, and partly built of very large hewn 
 stones. Then' measurements are given as follows, by Mr. Porter : — 
 
 Upper Pool. 
 
 Length 
 
 Depth, east end . . 
 
 r east end . 
 
 Breadth 
 
 1 west end . 
 
 F eet . 
 
 .‘380 
 
 Middle Pool. 
 Distance from Upper Pool 
 
 Feet. 
 
 160 
 
 Lower Pool. 
 
 'Feet. 
 
 Distance from Middle Pool 248 
 
 25 
 
 Length 
 
 423 
 
 Length 
 
 . 582 
 
 236 
 
 Depth, east end . . . 
 
 39 
 
 Depth, east end . . 
 
 . 50 
 
 229 
 
 r east end . . 
 
 236 
 
 f east end . 
 
 . 207 
 
 Breadth \ _ 
 
 l west end . . 
 
 229 
 
 Breadth \ 
 
 l west end . 
 
 . 148 
 
 We found these reservoirs quite full of water ; the source from 
 whence they are so copiously fed, is a “sealed fountain,” not far 
 distant to the north-west. Subterranean chambers, built of solid 
 masonry, vaulted, and arched over ; tiled conduits underground, 
 different from any others ; stone staircases and massive walls — attest 
 
BETHLEHEM. 
 
 247 
 
 the scientific skill and boundless “ wisdom ” of the great King Solomon. 
 Hither, the mighty monarch used to come in state ; “ sitting high in 
 his chariot,” says Josephus, and attended by a band of tall and 
 handsome youths, their long hair sprinkled with gold dust, and clad 
 in Tyrian purple. They came along a causeway, constructed of black 
 stone, made smooth and suitable for chariot wheels. An aqueduct, 
 begun by Solomon — but finished, we are told, by Pontius Pilate — 
 still terminates within the temple area, at Jerusalem; the water 
 being propelled up steep ascents, by means of chambers to admit a 
 pressure of the air. In less than half an hour we came in sight 
 of Bethlehem. The situation of this deeply interesting town is very 
 striking, and particularly beautiful ; its line of houses and the massive 
 convent crowning the summit of a terraced hill, planted with olives, 
 vines, and other fruit trees, luxuriant and kept with care; for 
 the Bethlehemites are rich and prosperous, and their waving 
 corn-fields and green meadows recall to memory bygone days — 
 when David fed his father Jesse’s Hocks, and Ruth gleaned plentifully 
 from the harvest sheaves of Boaz. “ Little among the thousands 
 of Judah ” — and yet the Prince of Peace was born and laid within 
 a manger there ! — and ere that wintry morning dawned, “ the Glory 
 of the Lord shone round about” those rocks, and glens, and vine- 
 clad slopes, and lighted up that purple Eastern sky ; and simple 
 “ shepherds, abiding in the field,” heard the “ glad tidings ” — and 
 sweet music of the “ Heavenly host ; ” which sang of Love unutter- 
 able — “ Good Will to men ! ” We visited the Church of the 
 Nativity ; closely followed, even there, by vendors of carved shells 
 and rosaries. The many sacred sites enshrined within these walls 
 were hallowed by an old tradition so early as the second century ; 
 and therefore, who can say they must not be considered genuine P 
 Three rival Christian sects — Armenian, Greek, and Latin — divide 
 the ancient church, built by the Empress Helena, amongst them ; 
 
248 
 
 BETHLEHEM. 
 
 the Greeks monopolizing by far the largest share — although the 
 Latins have obtained possession of the holy cave below. To explore 
 this narrow grotto little tapers are provided ; and every part which 
 claims the least degree of interest, being encased with polished 
 marble, decked out in gold and silken draperies, and hung with 
 silver lamps, continually kept burning, it is impossible to fix one’s 
 mind upon its probable identity with all the various scenes 
 recorded in St. Luke’s description of our blessed Saviour’s Advent. 
 At the east end stands an altar, under which a silver star is fastened 
 to the floor, marking precisely the spot of our Eedeemer’s birth ; 
 and with the following inscription round it : — “ Hie de Virgine 
 Maria Jesus Christus natus est.” There was originally a much 
 more splendid star, declared to have been stolen by the Greeks ; 
 and what we see at present was the gift of Monsieur Botta, 
 French Consul at Jerusalem, in 1853. Among many small recesses, 
 there is shown the chapel of St. Joseph, and also that of St. 
 Elizabeth ; the sepulchre of the Innocents ; the tomb of good St. 
 Jerome ; and the little cell wherein that learned monk translated 
 all the Holy Scriptures into Latin. A few fine paintings may be 
 dimly seen ; and those who value works of art regret they should 
 be thus incarcerated. One of them we particularly admired : the 
 artist was a Roman Catholic priest, who visited Bethlehem not long 
 ago. It represents the “Angel of the Lord,” appearing “to Joseph 
 in a dream.” 
 
 The population of Bethlehem is estimated at 3,000 ; and, although 
 entirely Christian, is by no means remarkable for general good 
 conduct and subordination. The people are a handsome fair- 
 
 complexioned race ; and their bright purple, scarlet, and orange- 
 coloured garments — worn by both sexes — contrast admirably with 
 the graceful white draperies and costly ornaments the women wear. 
 It is quite wonderful to sec the ponderous weight of coins these 
 
TOMB OF RACHEL. 
 
 249 
 
 female heads endure ; not merely to form a helmet, but a broad 
 band, like scales of armour, passes round the chin. A husband’s 
 creditors can never seize upon the personal adornments of their 
 debtor’s wife ; and thus, in Palestine, not often do we find a gold 
 or silver coin without a hole being bored through it. We 
 descended by a long and gradual slope into a very lovely valley, 
 with the prosperous-looking village of Beit Jala, and the handsome 
 Latin church and palace, embowered in olive groves, upon its 
 western side. Proceeding a short distance further, we perceived 
 the Tomb of Kachel ; a small square whitewashed building, 
 surmounted by a dome. The site of Rachel’s sepulchre has never 
 yet been doubted ; and Jews, Mohammedans, and Christians, alike 
 believe that Jacob’s favourite wife was really buried here ; while 
 Scripture gives unquestionable authority to the old tradition. “They 
 journeyed from Bethel, and there was but a little way to come 
 to Ephrath .... and Rachel died, and was buried on the way 
 to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem.” Moreover, it is generally supposed 
 that the ruins of an ancient town near here, discovered some 
 years ago by Mr. Finn, H.B.M. Consul at Jerusalem, and called 
 by the neighbouring fellahin , Er Ram, is the “ Ramah ” where 
 the prophet Samuel heard the voice of lamentation, and “ Rachel 
 weeping for her children and from the situation of Beit Jala, 
 that place is thought to be identical with Zela of the Book of 
 Joshua, and with “ Zelzah ” — named by Samuel in addressing Saul, 
 whom he had just anointed King of Israel at Ramah : — “ When 
 thou art departed from me to-day, thou shalt find two men by 
 Rachel’s sepulchre, in the border of Benjamin, at Zelzah.” The 
 tomb consists of both an outer and an inner chamber ; but the 
 latter is secured by an iron door, almost invariably kept closed 
 by lock and key. Ascending a steep hill, we reached in half 
 an hour from hence, the Greek convent, Mar Elias, which is 
 
250 
 
 PLAIN OF REPHAIM. 
 
 surrounded by a high stone wall. A motley crowd of priests, and 
 monks, and pilgrim devotees, flocked round the gate of entrance ; 
 for Easter week, according to the Greeks, is fast approaching 
 now ; and day by day, Jerusalem is filling with members of that 
 church, from Russia, Greece, and many other countries. Since 
 leaving Hebron, we have more than once met parties of men and 
 women, rich and poor, travelling on horseback or on foot — and 
 sometimes little children were among them — intent upon their 
 pious tour of visiting all the “ holy places ; ” a solemn duty, 
 meritorious in their eyes. A natural cavity, of no great depth, 
 and simply formed by nature in a piece of limestone rock hard by, 
 the monks assert to be the actual impression of Elijah’s body, 
 who once lay down there, tired, hungry, and sad at heart, to rest 
 awhile! But now the Holy City came in sight, not two miles 
 
 distant, with Mount Olivet a little further to the eastward. For 
 a single moment only, we halted at an ancient well; where, it is 
 said, “ Wise men from the East ” saw clearly the reflection of the 
 “ Star ; ” which, after their interview with King Herod, was hidden 
 from them for a time. As we descended rapidly towards the Plain 
 of Rephaim, well cultivated land appeared on every side, tilled by 
 Greek Christians, who are protected by their numerous convents, 
 or the all powerful influence of Russian gold. The wide-spread 
 Valley of the Giants, where David smote the Philistines — still 
 famous for its “ ears of corn ” — is sadly desecrated by a modern 
 road, walled on each side, and which Greek industry has lately 
 made ; extending nearly all the way to Bethlehem. “ Beautiful for 
 situation ” is Jerusalem, when first seen from the north ; but strangers 
 who approach the city from an opposite direction, invariably feel 
 disappointed ; and as we quickly passed along towards the rocky 
 ridge that breaks abruptly down to the ravine of Hinnom, with 
 the bare Hill of Evil Counsel on our right, we scarcely recognised 
 
JERUSALEM. 
 
 251 
 
 the Holy City ; so totally have a few short years sufficed to change 
 and mar the scenery. New buildings rise up everywhere, of 
 tasteless and incongruous architecture ; effectually hiding from one’s 
 view, or spoiling by their utter want of adaptation, those very 
 objects which the traveller most ardently desires should meet his 
 eye. We entered by the Jaffa Gate, and took up our abode at 
 the Mediterranean Hotel; kept by a man named Christian Hauser, a 
 converted Jew. The British Consul has gone for a few days to 
 Jaffa, to meet Admiral Mundy, who commands the English fleet in 
 the Levant; and, to our great regret, the Anglican Bishop and Mrs. 
 Gobat have just left for Europe — in hopes that absence during the 
 extreme heat of summer months in Syria, may be of service to the 
 Bishop in his delicate state of health. This house is built, according 
 to the usual manner in this country ; and forms a curious combination 
 of open courts and corridors, domes and turrets, wooden ladders, 
 parapets, and stone staircases. The American Consul, Mr. Page, 
 resides here with his family during winter. The inhabitants of 
 Jerusalem are quite dismayed at the diminished number of European 
 strangers for the last two years ; small in comparison with other 
 and more peaceful times. This evening is very cold and comfortless ; 
 while the wind blows hard, and makes the woodwork of the doors 
 and balconies creak dismally. The Pool of Hezekiah, immediately 
 beneath our windows, is nothing more important than a monstrous 
 cistern, and adds its share of chilly gloom to everything around. 
 We are told of King Hezekiah, that “ he stopped the upper water- 
 course of Gihon, and brought it straight down to the west side of 
 the city of David.” That a reservoir was also made, there can 
 be little doubt ; and this very pool, not merely corresponds with 
 the supposed locality, but is fed at present from the self-same 
 quarter. 
 
 Wednesday , April 17 th . — Jerusalem is built upon a broad and 
 
252 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 rocky platform, raised high above the valley of Jehoshaphat to the 
 eastward ; and the deep ravine of Hinnom comes sweeping down 
 from the north-west — where it is called the Vale of Gihon — to 
 join the channel of the Kedron at En Rogel, or the “ Well of Job.” 
 The ancient city must necessarily have been “ compact together ” 
 
 — “ at unity in itself.” This elevated delta is divided into two 
 nearly equal parts by a third long depression, the “ Tyropoean ” of 
 Josephus, which runs from north-west of the Damascus Gate, with 
 a slight curve, to the south-east, becoming gradually deeper — 
 then called “Valley of the Cheesemongers” — and uniting with the 
 Kedron at the Pool of Siloam. The eastern ridge is Mount Moriah, 
 where once the Temple stood ; the western is the now “ ploughed 
 field ” of Zion. Upon these prominently marked outlines, few 
 writers have presumed to cast a doubt ; although, in minor details, 
 how various and contradictory the reports we read ! Each paltry 
 building of to-day will but increase the “ heaps ” of old J erusalem, 
 accumulating for 2,000 years. All that has ever been must soon 
 be swept away ! — and then we shall behold the glorious “ City of 
 the Great King ” come down from Ileaven upon the “ Holy hill 
 of Zion” — and oh! how “Worthy is the Lamb that was slain” 
 to be “ the Light thereof ! ” 
 
 The modern crenellated walls, built — or more probably repaired 
 
 — by Sultan Suleiman in 1542, measure in length, according to 
 Dr. Pobinson, little less than two miles and a half. They are 
 from ten feet thick to fifteen ; and vary in their height from 
 twenty-five to forty feet, as the nature of the ground requires. 
 The stones employed in their construction are evidently far more 
 ancient than the walls themselves, and differ greatly in their size 
 and mode of cutting. Huge blocks of Jewish masonry, placed 
 with extreme regularity, and neatly bevelled at the edges, still remain 
 in their original positions ; they may possibly belong to the 
 
JERUSALEM. 
 
 253 
 
 foundation walls of the first Temple ; or, at any rate, we must 
 regard them as the more recent work of Herod. A pathway, 
 protected by a parapet, extends along the top, and forms a very 
 pleasant promenade — from whence fine views of the surrounding 
 country and interior of the city may be gained without fatigue. 
 There are five gates, now daily opened ; and two besides, that 
 have been many years closed up — the Gate of Herod and the 
 Golden Gate — and all of them are Saracenic, but the last alone ; 
 which is remarkable for its double portals, and profusely ornamented 
 arches ; and bearing no analogy whatever with the massive portions 
 of the ancient wall on either side. In Bible history, nearly 2,000 
 years before the Christian era, Jerusalem is first mentioned, in 
 connection with Melchizedek, King of Salem — Priest of the most 
 High God — the type and emblem of its future King of Righteousness 
 — our Saviour, Jesus Christ. But soon afterwards, the city fell 
 under the heathen dominion of the Jebusites ; and was the last 
 Canaanitish stronghold in all Palestine, remaining unsubdued until 
 the reign of David. And even subsequent to the King of Israel’s 
 victory, Araunah, the Jebusite, still possessed a “ threshing-floor ” 
 on Mount Moriah, which he freely gave to “ build an altar therein 
 unto the Lord ” — for thus God spake to Moses, before the Israelites 
 had entered Canaan — “ Unto the place which the Lord your God 
 shall choose out of all your tribes to put his name there, even unto 
 his habitation shall ye seek, and thither thou shalt come ” — and 
 David, by Divine appointment, was instructed where to go. In the 
 Book of Psalms, we are repeatedly reminded that “ the Lord hath 
 chosen Zion.” “ When the fullness of the time was come,” our Lord 
 Hi mself appeared, and was “despised and rejected” by His own 
 nation at Jerusalem ; they “ killed the Prince of Life ; ” and from 
 that very period, “ their house was left unto them desolate.” But, 
 after “ many days, .... shall the children of Israel return, and 
 
254 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 seek the Lord their God and David their King, and shall fear the 
 Lord and His goodness in the latter days.” “ They shall come and 
 sing together in the height of Zion, and shall flow together to the 
 goodness of the Lord.” 
 
 The wind continued very high this morning, but the sun shone 
 brightly notwithstanding ; and we gladly took advantage of an 
 order, procured by Revd. Dr. Veitch — whom, with his travelling 
 companion, Mr. Gregorie, we rejoice to meet again — to ascend the 
 very ancient Tower of Hippicus. Four mounted cannon are planted 
 on its summit — from whence the prospect is extensive, on a clear 
 day like this, and full of deeply interesting associations ; the Moab 
 mountains looked much nearer to us than they really were. This 
 building was erected by King Herod, not far from the north-western 
 brow of Zion ; it is rectangular in form, and the lower part is built 
 of massive stones, bevelled, and roughly hewn ; during successive 
 ages, it has borne the names of “ Tower of David,” and “ Castle of 
 the Pisans.” The only part that is antique, is said to measure 
 forty feet above the level of the fosse ; the upper part is modern, 
 and contains one vacant chamber. By a winding staircase, we 
 ascended an adjoining minaret, commanding, from its greater elevation, 
 a more distinct panorama still. But it was not quite safe to linger 
 there ; as the parapet was broken at one side, and the wind blew 
 so violently we could hardly stand. Our four companions through 
 the Desert have pitched their tents outside the Jaffa Gate, to avoid 
 the desagremens of Jerusalem hotels. We have just heard the very 
 melancholy tidings of Mrs. Ridgway’s death, at Cairo, from small- 
 pox ; her husband having caught that terrible disease at Luxor. 
 
 Thursday , April 1 8th. — By means of an official order — for 
 which we paid one pound per head — we were enabled to see the 
 Mosque on Mount Moriah ; and therefore, at a very early hour, a 
 party of ten English travellers assembled at the British Consulate 
 
JERUSALEM. 
 
 255 
 
 — from whence we were conducted by the Consul’s secretary into 
 the Haram, through one of its narrow western entrances. A tall 
 and handsome Moslem priest, the third in dignity of those belonging 
 to the Mosque ; and who takes special charge of all the sacred 
 buildings in the enclosure — Sheikh Mohammed Donna, he is called — 
 was our unwilling cicerone. He hurried us along with inconvenient 
 rapidity, and with eagerly imploring gestures ; while he incessantly 
 repeated the only English words in his vocabulary, taught him, he 
 said, by His Eoyal Highness Prince Alfred — “ Come on, come 
 on ! ” — and nobody was suffered for an instant to remain behind. To 
 prevent the possibility of disturbance, a body of twenty soldiers, or 
 police, had been assembled, and were distributed in parties here 
 and there ; but not one single person offered us the slightest 
 molestation. We may have had a few cross looks ; and that was 
 all we had to bear, beyond being hurried to and fro. To my 
 surprise, there was a general want of care and neatness apparent in 
 the Haram ; and gradual decay, which Turkish indolence would take 
 no trouble to arrest, was making inroads everywhere. The area 
 contains thirty-five acres, more or less, I have been told ; but it is 
 almost impracticable to ascertain its size exactly, on account of the 
 extraordinary irregularities of its boundary. The surface is uneven ; 
 and where the naked rock does not appear, the ground is planted 
 with tall cypresses and other trees, and variegated with broad 
 patches of green sward. At the north-west corner, the rock has 
 been considerably cut away, in some parts perpendicularly, to a 
 depth of about twenty feet. Before ascending the raised stoa 
 whereon the Mosque of Omar stands — rising majestically from the 
 midst of cloistered courts and colonnades, slender arches, and 
 small circular mihrdbs , or praying places, with their miniature 
 cupolas of fretted stonework — we were required to put on red 
 morocco slippers, with which we came provided, over our boots ; to 
 
250 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 avoid the usual penalty of walking barefoot. The noble flight of 
 steps is paved with flagstones, that look like marble at a distance ; 
 and the Mosque itself is beautifully proportioned, and much more 
 interesting than any other building in the Holy City, because the 
 site it occupies has always been the least disputed. The Kubbet 
 es-Sukhrah, or “ Dome of the Rock,” is externally, at the base, 
 octagonal in form, and each side measures sixty-seven feet. Four 
 doorways open into the interior, facing the four cardinal points ; 
 and three of them have covered porches — while the southern 
 entrance, which is the most important one, has an open porch, with 
 handsome marble columns. The diameter of this splendid edifice 
 is given by Dr. Barclay at about one hundred and seventy feet, 
 and the same in total height ; the central and upper portion of 
 the building are entirely circular. The nobly swelling dome — 
 surmounted by a large bronze crescent, which glitters in the 
 
 sunshine is universally considered to be a graceful model of most 
 
 perfect architectural symmetry. Laterally, it is quite covered with 
 glazed tiles of porcelain, in every imaginable colour, although blue 
 shades predominate over all the rest. Sixteen windows are 
 
 immediately beneath the dome, and have the piers between them 
 ornamented in a similarly gorgeous manner; the tiles displaying 
 elaborate arabesque designs. The upper portion of the octagon is 
 also tiled ; but the other half is fancifully inlaid with various 
 coloured marbles. This lower story of the mosque has fifty-six 
 windows, seven at each side. The whole building is encircled by 
 two lines of Arabic inscription — extracts from the Koran — 
 beautifully wrought within the tiles. The windows are all filled 
 with richly stained glass, unrivalled in its brilliancy by any to be 
 seen elsewhere. The diameter of the central dome is sixty-six 
 feet ; it is made of wood, encased with lead or copper ; and its 
 interior — as well as the inside walls and ceilings — is adorned with 
 
JERUSALEM. 
 
 257 
 
 gilt rosettes, and intricate gilded patterns a l' Arabesque. Two 
 
 rows of marble columns in the centre, besides four very massive 
 piers, support the dome and clerestory, and form a double corridor 
 encircling the rock — itself enclosed within a gilded screen of 
 iron lattice-work, and overhung by a rich canopy of crimson silk. 
 Mohammedan tradition is absurd and worthless ; but to the Jew 
 there is perhaps no spot on earth more hallowed by associations. 
 In their belief, this “ stone ” was Jacob’s “ pillow ” at the first ; and 
 subsequently the “ pillar,” upon which he poured the “ oil, and he 
 called the name of that place Bethel ” — House of God. It is also 
 generally believed to be the “ threshing-floor ” of Oman, or Araunah ; 
 and the place where faithful Abraham’s obedience was so sorely 
 tried. And, last of all, this spot is reverenced as the site where 
 Deity was manifested in the Shechinah : the Holy of Holies, which 
 none but the High Priests could enter. The rock is about sixty 
 feet in length, and fifty-five in breadth. It is irregular in shape, 
 and rises about five feet higher than the marble pavement of 
 the Mosque. It is said that when the Khalif Omer took the 
 city, he enquired where the Jewish Temple stood ; when, after 
 considerable search, this celebrated rock was brought to light, 
 inhumed beneath a mound of filth and rubbish, in token of 
 contempt for what the Jews had held so sacred ; and which the 
 conquering Khalif with his own hands helped to cleanse, previous 
 to erecting over it a handsome mosque. The edifice was probably 
 rebuilt towards the end of the seventh century, by Khalif Abd 
 el-Melek, who spent vast sums of money in its decorations. But 
 before that period, Hadrian’s superb Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus 
 had been erected there. Blood from the sacrificial altar flowed 
 through a pierced opening to the “ noble cave ” below ; descending 
 thence into the Valley of Siloam, by a subterranean conduit, to 
 fertilise the “ King’s Gardens.” At the southern extremity of the 
 
 s 
 
258 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 Haram stands the Mosque El Aksa ; which undoubtedly has been 
 a Christian church — with its seven aisles ; and numerous columns, 
 which are mostly marble, but of different sizes, and of various 
 architectural orders. Two square and massive monolithic pillars are 
 thought to be much older than the rest ; and many antiquarians regard 
 them as of ancient Jewish workmanship. This edifice was originally 
 erected by Justinian, although considerably enlarged by the 
 Crusaders ; and beneath it, there are vaults and passages, so 
 exceedingly remarkable, that their mystery can in no way be 
 explained, unless we look upon them as the work of Solomon — 
 part of those vast substructions, belonging to the first Temple, 
 and which were not necessarily destroyed. The sure Word of 
 Prophecy did not, we may believe, refer to these ; even when our 
 Saviour himself foretold to His disciples that fearful demolition 
 
 which so soon afterwards “ threw down ” Jerusalem, and “ laid 
 her even with the ground.” Huge square piers — the blocks 
 constructing which are bevelled stone ; with fragments of very 
 peculiar and antique carving, that must have been designed for 
 other places than those they occupy at present — these materials 
 appear characteristically Jewish ; but the crypts themselves have 
 evidently undergone important changes, wrought by successive 
 Gentile hands. Enormous caverns underneath the Haram area — 
 from whence King Solomon woidd readily procure supplies of 
 building stone — have been to some extent, and with great 
 
 difficulty, explored by Dr. Barclay. Within one chamber that he 
 entered, there were ponderous blocks half quarried, and several 
 vacant spaces where others had undoubtedly been hewn. This 
 
 stone is nearly white ; and being very soft, it can be worked with 
 ease, like that of Malta ; and also hardens by exposure to the 
 atmosphere. The marks of cutting instruments are still as well 
 
 defined as if they were made only yesterday ; and the quantity of 
 
JERUSALEM. 
 
 259 
 
 chippings prove that every single block was dressed before its 
 removal from the quarry. These evidences literally accord with 
 Scripture history — “ And the house, when it was in building, was 
 built of stone, made ready before it was brought thither ; 
 so that there was neither hammer, nor axe, nor any tool of 
 iron heard in the house while it was building.” Just within 
 the entrance of the Mosque El Aksa, a deep well is shown, called 
 “Well of the Leaf” — from an absurd Mohammedan tradition, that 
 
 a floating leaf revealed to Klialif Omar a garden in the realms of 
 
 Paradise ! That water to an immense extent is contained below 
 the Temple platform, can never be disputed ; wells, cisterns, 
 conduits, and perennial springs, undoubtedly are there. And who 
 may venture to predict the coming day, when those great pent- 
 up fountains shall burst forth, and “ waters issue out toward the 
 east country .... from under the threshold of the house 
 
 eastward .... and go down into the desert, and go into the 
 sea ; which being brought forth into the sea, the waters shall 
 be healed ! ” Through an aperture under the wall of the 
 Mosque El Aksa, my husband descended by a stairway — forty-four 
 steps — cut in the solid rock ; and at the base of which appeared 
 
 a sheet of water ; by Dr. Barclay’s measurement, “ 736 feet in 
 
 “ circuit and forty-two in depth ; and according to the best 
 
 “ estimate I could make, its capacity falls but little short of two 
 “ millions of gallons ! ” The same author believes this reservoir 
 
 to be the “ Royal Cistern,” or subterranean “ sea,” belonging to 
 the first grand Temple. The water is about knee deep, and 
 tolerably clear ; but all around, this dismal cave looks dirty and 
 dilapidated ; while the columns, formerly encased with metal, are 
 nothing now but shapeless masses of unhewn rock, piled one 
 upon another. The interior of the Golden Gate is sunk 
 
 considerably below the level of the soil ; and is prettily 
 
260 
 
 BETHANY. 
 
 festooned with creeping plants, which mingle picturesquely 
 with its Grecian carvings. There is a double row of lofty 
 columns in the centre, a curious mixture of the Corinthian and 
 debased Ionic order ; they are monoliths of highly polished marble, 
 and have corresponding pilasters at each side, from which spring 
 arches to support the roof. A guard of soldiers is always 
 stationed there ; from a strange idea that Jerusalem will eventually 
 be entered through the Golden Gate, in triumph by a conquering 
 Christian army ; the sequel to a traditionary story that our 
 blessed Lord came thence into the Holy City, riding upon the 
 ass’s colt, and surrounded by countless “ multitudes ” — a fact that 
 neither Jew nor Moslem will deny — who “spread their garments 
 in the way,” and shouted loud “ Hosanna to the Son of David ! ” 
 — “ Blessed is the King of Israel ! ” 
 
 Our desert friends, as I must call them, for distinction’s sake, 
 entertained us most hospitably at luncheon in their tent to-day. 
 Their excellent Maltese dragoman, Antonio Sapienza — of whose 
 ability and uniform good conduct we could never hear enough 
 from his employers, and had ourselves occasion frequently to 
 observe — provided for the party a most sumptuous repast. In 
 the afternoon, we mounted our horses, and took the lower road to 
 Bethany. This now humble village — El Azariyeh, or Lazarus , is 
 its modern name — has once been larger than it is at present ; 
 but its situation is a very lovely one, within a sheltered nook, 
 low down upon the south-eastern spur of Olivet — embowered in 
 luxuriant fig orchards, and fine trees of many other fruits. The 
 wretched dwellings are built up of old materials ; and an ancient 
 cavern tomb is commonly believed to be the grave of Lazarus. 
 The neighbouring village, Bethphage, “House of Figs,” has never 
 yet been found ; Bethany meant “ House of Dates,” but all her 
 palms have long since disappeared. The wayfarer may ever and 
 
MOUNT OF OLIVES. 
 
 261 
 
 anon pass by a solitary fig-tree, with barren withered looking 
 stem in winter time ; or, as we have seen them now, just 
 bursting into leaf, with promise of abundant fruit when summer 
 comes. Within this peaceful little hamlet was the quiet home 
 of Jesus — where He found loving hearts, unswerving trust and 
 deeply rooted sympathy — beneath the lowly roof of her, who, 
 with such wisdom, “ chose the better part.” How many touching 
 incidents of His life on earth occurred at Bethany ! We gathered 
 sprigs of olive from the wooded slope that overhangs the village 
 — true scene of the Ascension — and where His hallowed feet 
 will, “ in like manner,” one day stand again — “ upon the Mount 
 of Olives, which is before Jerusalem on the east ; and the Mount 
 of Olives shall cleave in the midst toward the east and toward 
 the west, and there shall be a great valley ; and half of the 
 mountain shall remove toward the north, and half toward the 
 south.” We met several brown-complexioned peasant women, 
 their classically shaped water-jars poised upon their heads ; and 
 dressed in purple, red, and orange-colour, like the Bethlehemites, 
 with graceful white draperies falling nearly to their naked feet. 
 Our return was by the highest path towards Jerusalem, which 
 twice comes suddenly in sight along this upper route. These distant 
 views are still most beautiful ; and well may we conceive how 
 He — whose “ tender heart ” could feel compassion, even for His 
 murderers — paused here, as He from hence beheld Jerusalem ; 
 and wept with bitter tears of sorrow for her inevitable woe ! 
 From the minaret belonging to the Mosque, which stands upon 
 the highest central crest of Olivet, we gaze upon a panoramic 
 landscape, peculiarly impressive, and unrivalled in the whole world 
 for its absorbing interest. To the westward lies the city, 
 apparently quite close at hand ; with every tower and wall and 
 tapering minaret to be clearly traced. Defects are imperceptible, 
 
MOUNT OF OLIVES. 
 
 262 
 
 and thus we realise, in some degree, the ages that are past. 
 
 We turn reluctantly towards the east ; and, beyond Jordan, see 
 
 the chain of rugged mountains, bounding the lands of Moab and 
 
 of Edom ; the Dead Sea here and there appears, like sheets of 
 molten lead, between the intervening heights ; that verdant belt 
 of emerald green, with now and then a silvery sparkle gleaming 
 at intervals through its tangled willow brake, marks the direction 
 where the sacred river flows ; and what a desert region gradually 
 descends from Olivet to them ! Hill rises behind hill, but all 
 
 are desolate and bare. Into this very wilderness our Saviour 
 was “ led up,” after His baptism ; and, echoing through those 
 
 gloomy defiles, had been already heard the voice of the Forerunner, 
 sent to prepare His way. To the south of the Valley of 
 Hinnom, the Frank Mountain — thus designated from an idea 
 that the Crusaders made their last stand there — is on clear 
 
 days discernible. Much nearer is the Convent of Elias, on the 
 road to Bethlehem, and the fertile Plain of Eephaim. Along the 
 western horizon extends a range of featureless and barren hills ; 
 and to the north is JNeby Samwil, supposed to be the ancient 
 Mizpeh. The Mount of Olives has four distinct summits, the 
 
 most northernly of which is “ Scopus ; ” the southern offshoot 
 has for centuries been called “ Mount of Offence,” from a 
 
 traditionary belief that it was the place of Solomon’s idolatry. 
 In early spring, the green ascents of Olivet — studded with 
 venerable olives and with almond trees in full white blossom — 
 look gay and flourishing, compared with so much stony ground 
 on every other side. This mountain ridge shelves upwards from 
 
 the dark valley of the Kedron, and has always been considered 
 
 the chief bulwark of Jerusalem to the eastward ; and when a 
 
 pleasant spot was sought for any special purpose, the Mount of 
 Olives was formerly, as it is now, in general preferred. Dr. 
 
GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 263 
 
 Stanley most beautifully describes the shepherds ; with their flocks 
 of sheep and goats browsing upon the fresh green grass, as he 
 returned one day from Bethany ; and we often had an opportunity 
 of remarking the readiness with which these gentle animals obey 
 the “ master’s voice ; ” and, moreover, “ He calleth His own sheep 
 by name, and leadeth them out ; . . . and a stranger will they 
 not follow, but flee from him ; for they know not the voice of 
 strangers.” We descended to the Garden of Gethsemane — the 
 
 Lathi garden — for the Greeks have fixed upon another spot 
 close by. Surrounded by a whitewashed wall, it is laid out 
 
 regularly in small parterres , and very neatly kept by the 
 Franciscan monks ; one of whom — a rather surly gentleman in a 
 broad-brimmed straw hat, covered with white calico, to protect 
 him from the sun — half grudgingly, even for a tempting backsheesh , 
 gave us flowers, and little sprigs from some of the eight old 
 olive trees ; whose gnarled and hollow trunks are filled with 
 stones, as a support, and also to retain the moisture. Despite 
 their marks of age — and it is possible they may have sprung 
 from the very roots of those which witnessed our Bedeemer’s 
 “ Agony ; ” the trees around Jerusalem being all cut down by order 
 of the conquering Titus — they throw out goodly branches still ; 
 and, with extraordinary care, will probably not fall for many 
 years. Other olives, far less patriarchal, and a few cypresses, 
 
 have been planted within this enclosure. We never like to see 
 a hallowed place neglected ; and yet it is not possible to feel 
 satisfied with the common-place appearance of this garden. The 
 Gospel narrative is so precise regarding that sad night of 
 “ Betrayal,” we are assured the real Gethsemane must be located 
 somewhere here — “ beyond the Kedron.” “ They went out into 
 the Mount of Olives,” and in a “ garden ” — well known to the 
 arch-traitor Judas — for “Jesus oftimes resorted thither with His 
 
2G4 
 
 POOL OF SILO AM. 
 
 disciples ” — the Son of God, in deep submission to His heavenly 
 Father’s “ will,” drank to the very dregs that bitter “ cup ” of 
 wrath, which made His guiltless soul “ exceeding sorrowful, even 
 unto death.” Leaving Gethsemane, we pursued our way along 
 the Kedron valley, with its myriads of rock-hewn sepulchres ; 
 some of which are very extensive, and of sufficient beauty to 
 justify our preconceived ideas of ancient Israeli tish grandeur. 
 White limestone crops out everywhere above the scanty soil, and 
 forms a striking contrast with the olive trees, more or less 
 abundant, which are scattered through this solemn and funereal 
 glen. The name “ Jehoshaphat ” was given to this ravine in early 
 Christian times, in reference to the literal intepretation of Joel’s 
 prophecy, that God will “ judge the heathen ” here — called 
 likewise “ Valley of Decision.” Hebrew inscriptions are very 
 
 numerous on the Jewish tombstones ; which lie by thousands, 
 close together at the base of Olivet, and slope towards Jerusalem. 
 On our right we passed the Fountain of the Virgin, which issues 
 from a cave upon Mount Opliel ; and Dr. Robinson suggests it 
 may possibly be identical with Bethesda, on account of the 
 irregular flowing of its waters. Of tliis phenomenon, a natural 
 
 syphon underground has been supposed by scientific explorers to 
 be the actual cause. On the opposite declivity is the miserable 
 village of Siloam, whose half starved inhabitants make their dwellings 
 “ among the tombs.” Silwdn is the Arabic pronunciation ol 
 
 Siloam. A terraced tract of fertile soil extends around the “Fool;” 
 and fruit and vegetables, to supply the market at Jerusalem, are 
 cultivated — in the “ King’s Gardens ” — at the present day. The 
 now ruinous condition of this famous reservoir, shows plainly its 
 diminished consequence in recent times. Originally it was a well 
 built oblong tank, about fifty feet in length, and nearly twenty 
 wide ; fragments of arches and of columns denote that no expense 
 
JERUSALEM. 
 
 265 
 
 was spared in its construction. A conduit, beautifully cut, conveys 
 the water hither from an upper fountain, distant at least a 
 quarter of a mile, and from whence its chief supply is gained. 
 A flock of jet black goats, with silky hair, white heads, and very 
 long white ears, were watering at this famous pool. There must 
 have been some hundreds of them, and they were all alike ; at a 
 distance we took them for a crowd of people. When we again 
 rode past the wretched village, a group of Arab girls were 
 dancing wildly on a level space, as they sang monotonously a 
 funeral dirge — the usual ceremony in honour of some one lately 
 dead. 
 
 We spent this evening very pleasantly at the English Consulate ; 
 where, among many other travellers, we met Admiral Mundy, and 
 several naval officers, belonging to the British squadron now at 
 Jaffa. The Governor of Jerusalem, Surreya Pacha, a fine, 
 intelligent-looking man — once Turkish minister at Paris — was 
 also present. It is said, by those who do not like him, that 
 the Pacha is very proud of his high rank, a fanatically bigoted 
 Mohammedan, and particularly averse to Europeans ; but the 
 opinion is universal that he is an extremely clever ruler ; and 
 whatever may be his inmost feeling, liis maimer is perfectly 
 well-bred and courteous ; and his education and talents are 
 acknowledged to be superior to the ordinary capacity and indolent 
 far niente of the Turks in general. To his incessant vigilance, 
 and unwonted energy at the trying period of the Syrian massacres, 
 during the summer of I860, the Christian population of the Holy 
 City are principally indebted for their preservation — merely to 
 speak of human efforts — from those dire calamities which befel 
 the northern districts. But what seems more especially remarkable 
 in the character of Surreya Pacha, is his detestation of anything 
 that appears mean or servile, combined with his inaccessibility to 
 
2<j6 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 bribes ; wisely preferring to collect money by a strict and 
 rigorously enforced taxation. At first, this novel system was 
 
 exceedingly unpopular, and a matter of great di (ficul ty ; but, to 
 facilitate its being fully and regularly carried out, every dwelling 
 house at Jerusalem was accurately numbered — a firm proceeding, 
 perhaps unknown here since Isaiah’s day — and a careful register 
 was made of the inhabitants, whether proprietors, inmates, or 
 
 temporary sojourners. Few Turkish governors have ever been 
 more earnestly solicitous for the peace and welfare of their 
 
 paclialics, or more indefatigable in preserving order, than the 
 excellent Surreya Pacha. There are about twelve hundred soldiers 
 in Jerusalem at this time, to protect the numerous Greek 
 
 pilgrims, but usually a small force is deemed sufficient. They 
 are very short in stature, and look like young recruits, though 
 some of them wear the English Crimean medal. Kyrillos, the 
 Eussian Bishop, was another guest this evening at the Consulate ; 
 still a young man, with fair complexion, large blue eyes, and a 
 
 most pleasing countenance, his very long light hair hung down 
 
 upon his shoulders ; he wore a purple satin robe, and, besides 
 
 the episcopal gold cross and chain, his breast was decorated 
 
 with several brilliant stars and jewelled orders. A black crape 
 scarf was folded smoothly round his tall, stiff cap, with both 
 the ends left hanging straight behind. Kyrillos is a universal 
 favourite ; and being much esteemed for his great learning and 
 unostentatious piety, his judgment has considerable influence. 
 Unfortunately, the night was wet and very cold ; but for ten 
 shillings we hired a roomy, and fearfully rickety, sedan chair, a 
 cast-off vehicle of the Greek patriarch. “ Except for the honour ” 
 of being carried, we might almost as comfortably have walked 
 the whole distance. One window of our crumbling old conveyance 
 was broken into shivers, another obstinately refused to be drawn 
 
JERUSALEM. 
 
 267 
 
 up at all ; and the ponderous machine creaked ominously, and 
 threatened to give way beneath its double freight. The four 
 Arab bearers were of unequal size ; and, as two of them were 
 necessarily, from the construction of the rugged streets, on the 
 highest part of the stones — while two others paced along the 
 deep channel which runs down the middle — we felt every 
 moment that the next jerk must inevitably turn us over. Moses, 
 a converted Jew, and our laquais de place , made a vain attempt 
 to give support to the lowest side of the sedan chair. Paolo, 
 our dragoman, preceded us ; Salvo walked close behind ; our 
 Egyptian cook, Selameh, wherever he was able to go — and 
 everybody had a lantern. A very high wind, and the extreme 
 steepness of Mount Zion at this part of its ascent, added considerably 
 to the other difficulties we encountered. Soon after our return, 
 the rain poured down in torrents ; and we felt exceedingly 
 rejoiced it had not commenced before ; as the broken pavement 
 — if such it can be called — would have become very slippery ; and, 
 at all events, the descending was more hazardous than mounting 
 up had been. Mrs. Finn speaks warmly of the encouragement 
 that now exists for people of our nation to purchase tracts of 
 land, and settle near Jerusalem. They would thus employ as 
 labourers the Arab fellaliin , who respect the English character ; 
 and believe that whatever any individuals of our countrymen have 
 done hitherto to benefit their state, is more disinterested in its 
 intention than the seemingly great advantages sometimes held out 
 to them by other Europeans. 
 
 Sunday , April 2 lit — Continual heavy showers, and a bitterly 
 cold wind, have prevailed until this morning ; when the sun again 
 shone pleasantly, and with unusual power. We attended divine 
 service at Christ’s Church, beginning at ten a.m. The congregation 
 was a most respectable and apparently attentive one ; and in 
 
268 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 number, I was told, about a hundred and twenty. Besides the 
 bishop, there are three clergymen of the Church of England now 
 residing at Jerusalem — Kev. Mr. Barclay, Mr. Ilefter, and Mr. 
 Bailey. To-day we heard a sermon preached by Mr. Hefter, 
 from Romans xiii. 12. Dr. Chaplin is the resident physician 
 attached to the London Jewish Society, and he occupies the same 
 house which belonged to the late deeply lamented Dr. Macgowan. 
 A few other laymen are also attached to the mission, as 
 
 apothecaries and artisans. With regard to the Jews, their average 
 number is supposed to be at least one third of the entire 
 population of the Holy City, which at ordinary times amounts to 
 15,000 or 16,000. The former are in general miserably poor, 
 depending for their daily bread upon the bounty of their richer 
 brethren in Europe ; and therefore, most unhappily for the credit 
 of our missionary efforts, a converted Israelite is left to starve, 
 unless employment can be found in some one of our institutions 
 for that purpose. The Jews of Palestine are, on the whole, 
 remarkable for them inoffensive conduct, as well as for the purity 
 of their lives ; but they are often very ignorant and superstitious, 
 where they have to all appearance very little of that intolerant 
 bigotry which renders Christian access to the Jewish mind in 
 most cases so difficult. There is a Church service in Hebrew 
 every Sunday morning at an early hour, and a Lutheran service in 
 the German language, in the afternoon. Besides these Sabbath 
 duties in the Church, there are also weekly prayer meetings ; which 
 have been greatly blessed, as instrumental in keeping Protestants 
 together in this small community, and fostering a sound religious 
 principle. The hospital for Jews, established by the London 
 Society, has been particularly beneficial in its influence ; and the 
 cleanliness and excellent order with which it is conducted, 
 deserve the highest commendation. The arrangements in all 
 
JERUSALEM. 
 
 2G9 
 
 respects are admirable ; and to Dr. Macgowan’s skill and energy, 
 they are principally due. Upon the south-western brow of Zion, 
 a large unsightly building was not long ago erected, as a diocesan 
 school for boys ; the rooms are very lofty and well ventilated, and 
 a garden, which answers as a playground, is attached to it, opening 
 into the English cemetery. The head master, Mr. Palmer, is an 
 Englishman ; and we were delighted with the ready answers of 
 the children ; two or three pretty little boys were pointed out to 
 us, as having lost their parents at Damascus, during the recent 
 dreadful massacres in Northern Syria. The pupils average at 
 present thirty-six in number, boarders and day scholars inclusive. 
 I never saw a school of this description where the children 
 looked more clean and comfortable, or answered questions more 
 correctly. Of Jews and Arabs there was a nearly equal mixture. 
 The senior boys receive tuition from an Arab teacher, who was 
 educated at Beyrout. The English language is the basis of 
 instruction, although Hebrew and Arabic are not by any means 
 neglected. To be taught the Bible as a rule of life, is the one 
 great object sought ; and the simple elements of other things are 
 all that they seem likely to require. The Diocesan Girls’ School is 
 within the city walls, close to the English Church ; but the 
 schoolmistress is absent on account of illness, and the door was 
 locked when we passed by. There is likewise an infant school, 
 which is said to promise well, but has been very lately set on 
 foot. Miss Cooper’s school for Jewesses was attached to the 
 London Jews’ Society shortly before her death, about two years 
 ago ; and has been, under Providence, the means of keeping 
 many families from beggary by the sale of needlework ; besides 
 the good effects of Christian teaching, and habits of regularity and 
 neatness daily inculcated. The Prussian Deaconesses are five in 
 number ; they have a spacious and commodious house, kept 
 
270 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 beautifully clean — and which includes their hospital, where people 
 of all creeds are readily admitted ; their well-arranged dispensary, 
 and their school for girls. The self-denying kindness and 
 unwearied labour of these truly pious women cannot be surpassed ; 
 even by the most devoted “ Sceurs de Charite.” They are all dressed 
 alike, in dark blue cloth, and with neat white caps of tulle ; 
 a modest and becoming costume. From various sacred spots around 
 Jerusalem, these deaconesses collect wild flowers ; which they dry 
 most skilfully, and arrange on sheets of writing paper. Strangers 
 buy them eagerly, being so portable, as trifling souvenirs ; and thus 
 a little sum of money is obtained for the benefit of this 
 establishment. The House of Industry was also instituted by the 
 Anglo-Prussian Mission, where Jewish converts are instructed in 
 various useful handicrafts ; but principally in carpenters’ work, 
 making all kinds of things for sale in olive wood and Hebron 
 oak. Mrs. Bailey has a private school for European children, 
 which was greatly needed, and is likely to be productive of very 
 good results. In 1854 an English college was opened at Jerusalem ; 
 the chief design of which was to educate young men as missionaries. 
 The scheme appeared most excellent, and much interest was excited 
 in the city among the Christian residents ; for a time, the college 
 went on prosperously, and a course of lectures was regularly 
 attended. But larger funds than could by any means be raised 
 were absolutely necessary to provide sufficient salary for a Principal ; 
 when the gentleman who kindly undertook that post, was obliged 
 to go to England, in consequence of ill health. The “ Sarah 
 
 Society ” consists of a few ladies who visit Jewish families at 
 their own houses, supplying those who are in extreme poverty 
 with medicine, food, or clothing. The English Agricultural Farm 
 was commenced in June 1852, by the hire of a piece of ground 
 to the north-west of Jerusalem — a joint undertaking of Mr. Finn 
 
FROM JERUSALEM TO JERICHO. 
 
 271 
 
 and other Christians in the Holy City, with intent to give 
 remunerative occupation to Jewish labourers. Applications for 
 work were very numerous, and it was gratifying to observe how 
 willingly the Jews accepted an employment to which their nation 
 is in general averse. Some were at first employed to build a wall 
 and cistern, and a small house was erected for the manager ; but 
 the present funds are insufficient to defray all the expenses ; 
 although the olives, vines, and mulberry trees make profitable 
 returns. The labourers are accordingly very few in number; but 
 industrious at their work, and grateful for their daily wages of 
 three piastres and a half — about sixpence in English money. 
 Hundreds of half-starving Jews are eager for employment ; but so 
 determined are the Eabbis to check the spread of Christian 
 influence, that they have been known to wait outside the Jaffa 
 Gate at early daw, and drive the workmen back again with 
 whips, when threats proved unavailing. But notwithstanding all 
 this violent opposition — young and old, ignorant or learned, are 
 willing to earn a scanty pittance in this Hebrew farm. And why 
 should we despond, or relax in any single effort for the welfare of 
 Jehovah’s “ Chosen People,” because no brilliant result is evident P 
 “All Israel shall be saved,” in God’s own time and season. The 
 “ remnant only,” is our promised portion until that day arrives ; and 
 in unswerving faith, by earnest pleading, and with patient watchfulness, 
 we must assist to gather, one by one, every “ lost sheep of Israel ” 
 within the Shepherd’s fold. 
 
 Monday , April 22nd. — This day commences Passion Week 
 in the Greek Church ; and, with our former travelling 
 companions, we determined to avail ourselves of an opportunity 
 which may never occur to any of us again, and accompany the 
 caravan of pilgrims to the Jordan. We set off from the hotel 
 at half-past six a.m. ; and thought the quaint old streets, in spite 
 
272 
 
 FROM JERUSALEM TO JERICHO. 
 
 of all their filth and ruggedness, had never looked so picturesque 
 before — as we rode slowly down the Via Dolorosa to St. Stephen’s 
 Gate. We passed by several hundred pilgrims on our way ; 
 people of almost every nation, and attired in all imaginable 
 varieties of costume. The morning air was fresh and buoyant, 
 the sun shone brightly, and not a feathery cloud appeared upon 
 the deep blue sky. The scene around, so novel in our eyes, 
 was full of cheerfulness and animation. Crowds of both sexes, 
 and of all ages — from the tiny unconscious infant in arms to 
 the hoary-headed octogenarian — streamed onwards to the eastern 
 outlet of Jerusalem. By far the greater number went on foot ; 
 but the richer pilgrims were mounted upon dromedaries or 
 horses ; while others rode on sturdy mules, or were content 
 with donkeys ; and large families were packed together on a 
 single camel — women and children stowed away in panniers at 
 each side — with “ paterfamilias ” and his grown up sons sitting aloft 
 upon a pile of cloaks and coverlets on the camel’s hump ; how 
 terribly they all were shaken, when every now and then their 
 rolling pace was quickened to a trot ! Many thousands of 
 spectators — chiefly women, wrapped in white sheets, or izzars , 
 their skins presenting every shade of colour that humanity can 
 boast, from fail' to ebony — had assembled before sunrise, near the 
 Garden of Gethsemane, to see the motley caravan go forth. In 
 such a multitude, the general good behaviour was surprising ; we 
 heard no angry expressions from any portion of that strangely 
 mingled throng ; nor were there instances of rude and violent 
 conduct, inseparable from European mobs. Without exception, all 
 the pilgrims — of whom the Russians were by far the greater 
 number — had provided themselves with one or more tin flasks, 
 to hold the Jordan water ; suspending them by cords, wherever 
 it was most convenient. Two women of that northern nation — 
 
FROM JERUSALEM TO JERICHO. 
 
 273 
 
 I hope, however, it was only an isolated case — appeared disgustingly 
 intoxicated ; although they were remarkably well dressed, and 
 looked as if they ought to be respectable in station. Considering 
 the rocky and uneven ground we had to traverse, it was wonderful 
 they did not break their necks ; for they rolled helplessly about, 
 unable to sit steadily, and when a perilous descent occurred, were 
 held upon their mules by men who walked on either side of 
 them. The Bussian ladies’ costume was exceedingly peculiar ; they 
 all wore European bonnets and silk mantles ; an extremely wide 
 petticoat, reaching just below the knees ; and very full white 
 trousers, fastened a little above the ankles by a narrow band. 
 They always rode astride ; and carried, generally, an enormous 
 umbrella to protect them from the sun. This caravan was 
 accompanied by a large military force ; scattered through its whole 
 extent, to guard the pilgrim host from predatory bands of robbers ; 
 these rocky defiles being as dangerous for unprotected travellers at 
 the present day, as when our Saviour spake His well-known parable, 
 to illustrate the second “ great commandment of the Law,” by 
 reference to that desert region, Has hallowed feet so often trod 
 in weariness and sorrow ; for “He had not where to lay His 
 head ” — “ His own received Him not.” 
 
 For the particular escort of our party, we had engaged the 
 services of an influential Arab sheikh, belonging to a tribe of 
 fellaMn ; a lawless set of people inhabiting the district south of 
 Bethlehem ; and for prudential reasons recognised as a kind of local 
 militia by the Turkish Government, and allowed to carry arms. 
 These men are certainly not prepossessing in appearance ; I never 
 saw more ferocious or disreputable looking creatures ; and they have 
 not that independent bearing which distinguishes the wild Bedouin 
 of the Eastern Deserts. The sheikh is evidently superior to his 
 followers, of whom we have eleven with us ; three of them on 
 
 T 
 
274 
 
 ’ain el-haud. 
 
 horseback, and the rest on foot; they are all well armed with 
 muskets, swords, and pistols. The sheikh arranges his red and 
 yellow silk kvffieh like a turban ; which adds to the importance 
 of his figure, when careering to and fro upon a splendid Arab 
 horse. His arms consist of a very handsome sword, a brace of 
 pistols, and a double-barrelled gun. The silvery foliage of some fine 
 old olive trees in the Valley of Jehoshaphat looked very picturesque ; 
 and until we were a few miles beyond Bethany, the scenery 
 was altogether beautiful. At this most lovely season of the year, 
 all vegetation is unscorched and bright ; the blazing sunbeams of a 
 Syrian midsummer have not yet scathed and burnt up each green 
 leaf and gaily smiling flower ; or withered every short-lived blade 
 of grass that grows upon the terraced slopes of Palestine in 
 many a pleasant spot. With much regret we turned our backs 
 on Bethany ; and when within the Wilderness of Judaea, how 
 suddenly the aspect of surrounding objects seemed to change ! 
 Bleak hills and fearful precipices, bare rugged chasms and ravines ; 
 without one blade of verdure to relieve the dazzling whiteness of 
 the interminable rocks and stones. Sacred associations ; and 
 
 perhaps a half romantic sense of insecurity, caused probably by a 
 casual meeting with some Arabs of suspicious mien, kept up a 
 certain interest as we rode along ; and thus the hours passed 
 quickly by, and we felt scarcely conscious of the lapse of time. 
 Not very far from Bethany there is a dismal glen, in which we 
 
 saw an ancient fountain, believed to be En-shemesh of the Book 
 
 of Joshua; now called “The Twelve Apostles” — 'Ain el-IIaud — 
 the water gently flows into an old stone trough, under a 
 
 Saracenic arch. Beneath those shadowing rocks, our blessed 
 Redeemer and Ilis disciples must often have lain down to rest 
 awhile ; as we saw many a weary wanderer reposing in their 
 cool shade to-day. We halted for an hour near another fountain, 
 
NAUR EL-KELT. 
 
 275 
 
 with a rocky height behind it, and a ruined caravanserai ; and 
 where, on sloping ground hard by, are vestiges of a large building 
 commenced by the Greek Church not many years ago, and 
 intended for a convent ; but for some untold reason it was left 
 unfinished, when the outer walls were raised. Our Maltese 
 servant, Salvo, had unhappily fallen from his very stubborn mule, 
 and was obliged to return back from hence to Jerusalem, with a 
 severely sprained ankle. The extreme sterility of this desert route 
 would be painfully monotonous under less exciting circumstances ; 
 it is but a continual succession of wild chaotic mountain masses. 
 The paths are characteristically rough ; although seemingly, 
 our horses caught a spirit of enterprise on this occasion, and 
 walked briskly and unhesitatingly along. One set of pilgrims 
 carried banners ; and were accompanied by a rude band of music, 
 which was not unpleasant at a little distance. We met a numerous 
 party of Moslem devotees, on their return from paying an annual 
 visit of ceremony to No by Musa — “ Tomb of the Prophet Moses ! ” 
 a place, moreover, of sufficient sanctity to be closed with jealous 
 watchfulness against all Christian or Jewish infidels! We passed a 
 Khan upon a barren ridge completely in ruins ; and when tradition 
 fixed upon this lonely spot — the “ going up to Adummim ” — 
 still the most dangerous portion of the route between Jerusalem 
 and Jericho ; and here located every incident of the “ Good 
 Samaritan” — she wisely saw her judgment, in its perfect adaptation 
 to a deed of violence and bloodshed, could never in after ages be 
 denied. The ruins of an aqueduct, and remains of Roman 
 pavement, can here and there be seen ; with other evidences that 
 in former times a well-constructed road ran downwards to the 
 plain. At last we reached the edge of a magnificent ravine ; the 
 naked rocky sides of which are almost perpendicular — and yet 
 containing a few cavern dens, once the abode of pious anchorites, 
 
276 
 
 JERICIIO. 
 
 who chose these grottoes from their apparent inaccessibility and 
 utter solitude. This wady of the Nahr el-Kelt continued on the 
 left side of our path ; its course — commencing from some 
 intermitting springs, within a valley north-east of Jerusalem — is 
 very deep and winding ; but the full and powerful stream that 
 rushes madly through this mountain gorge in winter, is mainly fed 
 by a cascade ; the water overflowing two great rocky basins, one above 
 the other. The narrow channel, at present nearly dry, is fringed 
 with oleander bushes. This valley is supposed to be identical with 
 Achor, the scene of Achan’s punishment for theft ; and, with much 
 less probability, the “ brook Cherith,” where the ravens fed Elijah, 
 when famine wasted all the land of Israel. Occasionally, we 
 caught sudden glimpses of the river Jordan ; and sometimes of the 
 Dead Sea, from higher ground. Bright verdure gradually increases, 
 from its very small beginnings in the Wady Nahr el-Kelt ; until it 
 spreads out wide upon the fertile plain. At half-past two p.m., we 
 reached our camping place among the thorny thickets which 
 surround the hovel dwellings of Er-Riha — that miserable 
 representative of ancient Jericho, the “ City of Palm Trees ; ” but 
 not a single palm is left here now. Er-Riha can, however, boast 
 the so-called, “ House of Zaccheus,” an old dilapidated tower, 
 quadrangular in form ; and from the roof of which a far extended 
 view may be obtained. Here, a Turkish officer is always stationed, 
 as military governor of the district, with the rank of Agha. The 
 garrison consists of only half-a-dozen soldiers in ordinary times ; 
 but on particular occasions, like the present, the number is 
 augmented to at least a hundred men. The Agha sent 
 
 immediately to our camp, with offers of assistance, should any 
 addition to our forces be desired ; but by a formal contract, our 
 own sheikh is bound, at every hazard, to protect ourselves and all 
 belonging to us from injury or insult ; and if our baggage should 
 
JERICHO. 
 
 277 
 
 unfortunately be stolen, lie can be compelled “ to render back its 
 value fourfold.” To our extreme disgust, the tents are pitched 
 within the village cemetery; and, in consequence, we are annoyed 
 by myriads of tormenting flies. The climate in this deep 
 depression — three thousand feet below the level of Jerusalem — 
 is necessarily tropical ; and no wonder this “ well- watered ” plain 
 was formerly, with all its rich and valuable productions, the fairest 
 tract in Palestine. The descent into the Plain of Jericho is very 
 rapid, and extremely rough ; but where the pathway runs along 
 the brow of an unusually steep cliff, a rude stone parapet has 
 latterly been built as some protection ; although it seems an 
 inefficient guard in case of mules or horses turning restive. The 
 cool pure mountain air was left behind us by degrees ; while 
 puffs of hot light wind began to blow at intervals upon our 
 cheeks, like fitful furnace blasts. The melodious chirping of 
 innumerable birds, chiefly wild pigeons, was the most delightful 
 sound that met our ears until the sun went down, and they 
 retired to roost ; and then — a sorry substitute — the neighbouring 
 colony of frogs had their incessant croaking to themselves. We 
 are not more than half a mile from the immense encampment of 
 Greek pilgrims, a city of white tents and open bivouacs ; the 
 ceaseless unbroken murmuring from whence, resembles the 
 continuous rolling of a troubled sea. We were preparing to 
 retire to rest, in anticipation of an early ride to-morrow, and 
 Paolo had informed us that he killed a scorpion in his tent this 
 evening, when we heard approaching footsteps ; and the sound of 
 female voices, singing aloud monotonously, and in measured 
 strains. It was a party of young Arab girls from Er-Riha ; one 
 of whom flourished to and fro a long curved sword, by which 
 she challenged her companions, who formed a circle round, to 
 follow her — with slow and gliding steps and graceful movements 
 
278 
 
 .JERICHO. 
 
 of the body — as she alternately advanced towards the others or 
 retired ; but only one of them seemed ready to obey her call. 
 This sword dance commences very gently, and by degrees the 
 songs grow louder, the steps and gestures becoming gradually 
 quicker and more animated, until the scene has reached its 
 climax in a strangely wild excitement at the end. The skilful 
 heroine with the waving sword completely tired out her partner 
 in a little while ; and, indefatigable herself, she danced alone for 
 several minutes afterwards. These girls wore dresses of blue 
 cloth, set off with glittering ornaments ; their brown complexioned 
 faces were unveiled ; and their straight black hair was studded 
 with small silver coins. Pale moonlight, mingled with the lurid 
 glare of our bright watch fires, as the leaping flame shot upwards ; 
 and red sparks flew about in all directions from the “ crackling 
 thorns.” We should have enjoyed the novelty of this performance, 
 but for the dreadfully suffocating dust the dancers raised, almost 
 beyond endurance. Some men would also willingly have exhibited 
 in a similar manner — a proposal we thought better to decline ; 
 for the inhabitants of modern Jericho are said to be notorious thieves, 
 and therefore cannot prudently be trusted near a camp, without 
 extraordinary vigilance ; and precedents are not wanting where 
 this advantage has been seized, to carry off whatever may be 
 taken unobserved. Between excessive heat, and the half roaring 
 buzzing noise of vast assembled multitudes so near at hand, we 
 shall have very little sleep to-night, we may be sure. 
 
 Tuesday , April 23 rd . — It was no great hardship to get up this 
 morning. Long before sunrise, we were loudly summoned by tom-tom 
 drum, and bugle ; an unnaturally profound silence had, after midnight, 
 prevailed throughout the pilgrim camp ; but in an instant, like the 
 sudden bursting of a tremendous avalanche, was heard the deafening 
 roll of moving masses ; an overwhelming flood, all sweeping in 
 
THE JORDAN. 
 
 279 
 
 a mighty torrent, south eastward to the river Jordan ; bent eagerly 
 upon one common object — to most of them, perhaps, the crowning 
 glory of a lifetime. Great numbers of the more pious devotees had 
 lighted candles ; and their flames alone being dimly visible at that 
 dark morning hour, one could imagine them a host of guardian spirits, 
 marshalled in battle array upon the plain. No other objects could 
 be seen at any distance through the dense foggy atmosphere that 
 overspread the marshy surface of the Ghor. Some of the military 
 escort carried blazing torches ; there were about two hundred of 
 these Turkish soldiers, for whom green tents had been provided at 
 the camp. They were generally well mounted, and seemed 
 
 admirable horsemen, as they bounded and careered through slimy 
 swamps and tangled jungle, without a moment’s hesitation. At 
 five a.m. we mounted ; and in the darkness tried to steer our 
 way, without being caught among the trees ; or held fast by the 
 more dangerous thorn bushes, the rank luxuriance of which 
 proves in itself the marvellously fertile nature of the soil. Ere 
 long the sun appeared above the range of Moab, rising in clouded 
 majesty to-day. The Agha behaved towards our party with every 
 possible respect ; he was mounted on a beautiful grey horse ; and 
 immediately in front of him rode a man who beat a tom-tom 
 without ceasing, and held the reins of his own steed firmly between his 
 teeth. As an addition to our guards, four soldiers from the garrison 
 had been sent for our especial escort ; their horsemanship was a 
 perfect specimen of the wonderful control these people gain over the 
 fine and active animals they ride. And not only do the well trained 
 Arab horses appear one part of the very men themselves, but even 
 the immensely long spears they always carry, seem to be equally 
 inseparable from their owners. In little more than an hour we 
 reached the usual bathing place, but kept as much as possible 
 from the dense crowd of pilgrims. The Jordan bends considerably 
 
280 
 
 THE JORDAN. 
 
 at this part of its course, leaving an open space upon the 
 western side, convenient for the bathers. So many dreadful 
 accidents have occurred in former years, from the tumultuous 
 rushing into deep water of these eager devotees, that several men 
 are stationed now, at certain distances, within the muddy stream, 
 to prevent the more adventurous and excited of the multitude 
 from pushing thoughtlessly beyond their depth ; and thus being 
 carried downwards by the strong eddying current of the river; 
 which, however, becomes gradually less rapid as it approaches 
 nearer to the Dead Sea. These guards receive their pay from 
 the Greek Convent at Jerusalem. Most extraordinary was the 
 scene enacted on the Jordan’s bank to-day. Fires were in many 
 places lighted, by those preparing tea or coffee with water from 
 the Jordan ; men, women, and children, hastily dressing and 
 undressing, heedless that any one was near, crossed themselves 
 repeatedly and prayed aloud. Some were putting on, and others 
 taking off, their long white bathing-gowns; which will hereafter be 
 preserved with pious care, as destined finally for their burial shrouds. 
 Those who had already bathed, were wringing out their saturated 
 garments, and neatly folding them to stow away ; while almost 
 everybody had sheets or handkerchiefs to soak in Jordan water, and 
 carry home as precious relics to their friends and relatives, for 
 whom they are intended to serve as grave clothes also. Others, 
 again, were filling flasks and bottles at the river’s brink, with holy 
 water from the sacred stream ; and many others cut bundles of the 
 long straight reeds, to use for walking-sticks, in pleasant memory 
 of this eventful day ; or lopped green branches from the tall poplar 
 trees and feathery tamarisk bushes ; which, with the willow and the 
 agnus-castus, form impenetrable thickets upon the higher margin of 
 the Ghor. Hundreds of people rushed at once into the water ; 
 hundreds and thousands were upon the western bank — waiting 
 
THE JORDAN. 
 
 281 
 
 patiently, and with an astonishing degree of composure and decorum, 
 until their proper turn arrived. Infants, carried in their mothers’ 
 arms, were dipped, according to the usual ceremonious form for old 
 and young — the head alone three times, in honour of the blessed 
 Trinity, before the whole body can be immersed. These babes 
 will conscientiously be spared the labour and expense of any future 
 pilgrimage ; to perform which act of superstitious piety, so often 
 costs the sacrifice of a lifetime’s earthly gain. The very aged people, 
 and many who were sadly crippled, bathed like all the rest, assisted 
 cautiously by their younger and more active fellow-pilgrims. In 
 particular, we noticed one exceedingly old woman, leaning helplessly 
 on crutches ; who was led slowly, and with great difficulty, down 
 the steep lower bank, through reeds and tangled brushwood, in 
 perfect safety to the water’s edge. Some of the more enthusiastic 
 bathers could scarcely have enough ; and had recourse to other 
 hands, which splashed the water plentifully, in continuous torrents, 
 over them. The gentlemen of our party bathed like honest pilgrhns ; 
 but I was satisfied to wash my hands and face within that hallowed 
 stream, whose very name recals fond memories to the Christian’s 
 heart. The present moment is almost forgotten, as we solemnly 
 reflect upon the past. Here, “ all the time of harvest,” when 
 snows are melting on the eastern hills, the “Jordan overfloweth 
 all his banks,” and not unfrequently has submerged the plain. 
 The swelling flood was driven back by the Creator’s word, 
 that Israel — with the Ark of God — might take possession of 
 the Promised Land ; and when the great prophet Elijah, seated 
 in “ a chariot of fire . . . went up by a whirlwind into heaven,” 
 the waters “ parted hither and thither, so that they two ” — 
 Elijah and Elisha — “went over on dry ground.” And in the 
 river Jordan, not far from where we stood, our blessed Saviour 
 was baptised ; “ the Holy Spirit descending like a dove,” and 
 
282 
 
 THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 the Father’s voice proclaiming Him to be in truth Ilis “ well 
 beloved Son.” 
 
 But, however unwillingly, I must complete my narrative of the 
 pilgrim ceremonies. A very portly Greek priest, deputed by the 
 Russian Bishop at Jerusalem, most gorgeously arrayed in crimson 
 robes, enriched with gold embroidery, read aloud some prayers and 
 invocations from a book ; the glaring sunlight was carefully shaded 
 from his eyes, by a man who stood immediately in front, and held 
 before the reader’s face a broad-brimmed hat, covered with a kerchief 
 of white calico. When this portion of the service had concluded, 
 the priest divested himself of his more splendid garments, and put on 
 others, less liable to be spoiled by wetting. He then began, in whining 
 tones, to chaunt a psalm or hymn ; all the while holding in his left 
 hand a plainly made cross of olive wood, and which the bystanders 
 were severally allowed to kiss. With his right hand he waved a 
 bunch of long flat cane leaves, which he dipped repeatedly in the 
 river Jordan, and freely sprinkled all the crowd that came within 
 his reach. Horses, camels, mules, and donkeys, waited quietly for 
 then 1 riders, who, having left their distant homes on such a pious 
 errand, seemed reluctant, in most cases, to depart. Tea was prepared, 
 and a cheerful fire was burning, for the officiating priest’s refreshment, 
 when his duties to the pilgrims should be ended. 
 
 A dreary journey southward, of one hour and a half, brought 
 us to the Dead Sea shore. The gentlemen, having bathed here 
 also, confirmed the universal statements of other travellers, as to 
 the extreme buoyancy and nauseous bitterness of its memorable 
 waters ; but, as we walked along their margin, or looked upon 
 them from a little distance, when we sat to rest upon a piece of 
 salt-encrusted driftwood, they were to all appearance lucid and 
 transparent as those of inland lakes in general. Their saltness is 
 far beyond that of the great Atlantic Ocean, the proportionate 
 
JERICHO. 
 
 283 
 
 difference varying from twenty-six to four per cent. We picked 
 up quantities of black bitumen, a few pretty pebbles — and some 
 small brown shells, washed hither from the Jordan; and while thus 
 occupied, a trifling incident took place, which forcibly exemplified a 
 very common feature in the Arab character. Our sheikh, Raschid, 
 — a comparatively well educated man, for he can read and write — 
 is ambitious of possessing a really good Enghsh pistol ; and when 
 my husband asked him to take care of one belonging to himself, 
 from fear of losing it among the crowd of pilgrims, the crafty 
 chieftain feigned to think he had received a present; and did not 
 give the pistol up without an effort to retain it, by artfully appealing 
 to the never failing promise of an Englishman! We were sorry 
 for his disappointment, when we saw he was at last convinced of 
 his mistake ; nor did this occurrence in the least interfere with his 
 respectful and obliging behaviour towards any of our party afterwards. 
 How striking was the contrast between the busy multitude we left 
 so recently, and the unnaturally lifeless gloom which hovers all around 
 that strange, mysterious sea ! We passed a ruined khan or convent, 
 not far distant from the shore, built to accommodate travellers in 
 days gone by. At half-past twelve we reached our tents upon the 
 Plain of Jericho, where the sirocco heat was almost insupportable. 
 The flies tormented us by myriads ; and to read or write was, 
 therefore, quite impossible. We opened both sides of our tents, and 
 yet sat gasping for a breath of air; the atmosphere was reeking 
 with the hot steam dampness of a vapour bath ; and which our 
 disagreeable station, in the middle of an extensive graveyard, could 
 scarcely be supposed to ameliorate. We have not a thermometer 
 with us on this occasion ; but, by comparison with what has been 
 so frequently our experience, it is thought the midday temperature 
 could not certainly be under 130 or 140 degrees. Again we 
 mounted, soon after four p.m., and rode for half an hour across 
 
284 
 
 elisha’s fountain. 
 
 the Plain, until we came to ’Ain es-SuMn — more properly, Elisha’s 
 Fountain. I need not here repeat in detail the various Scripture 
 truths, and very doubtful legends, which all the world well knows. 
 It is a lovely spot, embowered in lofty nubk trees, and shaded by 
 impenetrable thickets of a lower growth. The bubbling of the pure 
 sweet water, which gushes from the base of a high mound ; healed by 
 Elisha at the earnest entreaty of the men of Jericho, and now swarming 
 with shoals of little fish — mingles its gentle sound in pleasantly 
 harmonious chorus with the sweet singing of innumerable birds. Along 
 the edges of this fertilising brook, and out upon the Plain, grow 
 quantities of bushes, bearing abundance of a golden-coloured fruit, 
 in size hke a small apricot ; most tempting to the sight, but 
 exceedingly offensive, and even poisonous, to the taste. It is by 
 many people considered to be the Apple of Sodom ; the Bedouin 
 call it “ mad- apple ; ” and say that, when their goats have browsed 
 upon it, a five days’ madness has invariably ensued. The water 
 from Elisha’s Fountain flowed originally into a large stone tank, 
 the semicircular form of which can still be accurately defined ; and 
 from thence was copiously led through numbers of artificial channels, 
 to irrigate the soil. Here, there is ample reason to believe, stood 
 the first Jericho ; and at our feet, and covering all this portion of 
 the Plain, are vestiges of very ancient walls and buildings, and 
 several mounds of rubbish, strewed over with fragments of old 
 pottery, and broken stones. Around this city then, the Israelites 
 marched day by day ; and when the seventh solemn circuit had 
 been made, “ the priests blew with the trumpets . . . and the people 
 shouted with a great shout ; ” and “ the wall fell down flat, so that 
 the people went up into the city . . . and took the city.” Jericho 
 was destroyed, and a terrible curse pronounced upon whoever should 
 set it up again. A period of five centuries passed by ; and during 
 King Ahab’s reign, “ did Hiel the Bethelite build Jericho ; he laid 
 
MOUNTAIN OF QUARANTANIA. 
 
 285 
 
 tlie foundation thereof in Abiram his firstborn, and set up the gates 
 thereof in his youngest son Segub.” A school of prophets soon 
 afterwards assembled here ; and though the mountain pass may yet 
 be traced to Bethel, the forest has entirely disappeared, from whence 
 “ came forth ” the “ two she bears ” that “ tare forty and two ” of 
 those wicked children who had dared to mock the “ bald head ” 
 of Elisha. One mile and a half from ’Ain es-Sultan, we passed 
 the ruins of a noble Roman aqueduct, and which I have already 
 mentioned ; it was a splendid work, but now is falling rapidly to 
 decay. From hence the Nahr el-Kelt runs straight across the Plain, 
 southward of Er-Riha ; and on its verdant banks, after the return 
 from Babylon, the newer city was erected here — that Jericho so 
 often honoured by the sacred presence of our Divine Lord, His 
 wondrous miracles, and His most holy teaching. The cruel monster, 
 Herod, died a miserable death at Jericho, where he purchased all 
 the famous palm and balsam trees from the beautiful Cleopatra ; 
 and adorned this royal city with a gorgeous palace, a hippodrome, 
 and other stately buildings. Vespasian demolished all these edifices, 
 but Hadrian restored the greater part of them ; and, at last, the 
 “ City of Palm Trees ” was, by the Crusaders, utterly destroyed by 
 fire. Fragments of masonry, scattered here and there, alone remain 
 to indicate its site. The bare white Mountain of Quarantania rises 
 abruptly from the Plain of Jericho : a small chapel has been erected 
 on its summit. The sides are very steep and rugged, pierced with 
 an infinitude of dark caves and grottoes, once the secure retreats 
 of self-denying anchorites, who came to fast and pray for forty days 
 and forty nights each year ; but now they serve as dens to howling 
 jackals, and are too frequently the lurking-places for predatory thieves. 
 The name of Quarantania is derived from a tradition that there 
 our suffering Saviour fasted forty days and nights ; and also that, 
 upon this “high mountain,” the Tempter “showed him all the 
 
286 
 
 PLAIN OF JERICHO. 
 
 kingdoms of the world, and the glory of them.” The whole locality 
 has for many centuries borne an ill repute ; and of late years, 
 especially, such repeated robberies and murders have been committed, 
 that travellers cannot safely venture to explore this neighbourhood 
 without a strong and formidable looking escort. To wash within 
 the tepid water of Elisha’s Fountain, and to ascend the Mount of 
 Quarantania, are additional duties incumbent on the pilgrims ; and 
 must necessarily follow their Jordanic baptism. We saw vast numbers 
 at the ’Ain es-SuMn; and waving lines, and separate groups of 
 people, were toiling up and down the mountain side. To climb 
 those almost perpendicular cliffs, at the end of so much previous 
 exertion and fatigue, is very dangerous ; and constant accidents occur. 
 This evening, we heard that one of the female pilgrims had slipped 
 into a rocky chasm, and was dashed to pieces by the fall. On 
 our return towards the camp, we met several armed horsemen 
 galloping to the spot; two of whom carried, each on one shoulder, 
 a strong thick pole, to form a litter for the body. News had just 
 reached the Governor of Er-Riha that the English party had been 
 robbed and murdered ; which frightened him exceedingly, lest he 
 should be held answerable for our safe keeping. The Arabs here, 
 as everywhere, demand enormous prices for their best horses ; as they 
 are averse to part with them for any sum of money, and will never 
 sell a really valuable animal if they can possibly avoid it. The 
 day had been so overpoweringly hot, we all looked forward to reviving 
 coolness after sunset ; but the sultry air continued its oppressive 
 heaviness, and the general complaint was that of languor and exhaustion. 
 We rode through several “ gardens of cucumbers,” and corn-fields, 
 where “ the time of barley harvest ” is evidently fast approaching 
 — vegetation being so very far advanced within this tropical division 
 of the deep-sunk Valley of the Jordan. But the wretched inhabitants 
 of Er-Riha, depraved and fever-stricken, will sow and plant no more 
 
PLAIN OF JERICHO. 
 
 287 
 
 than barely can supply sufficient food to meet their own consumption ; 
 the fatal insecurity of all possessions, and the well founded dread 
 that their productive crops may be prematurely swept away, by a 
 sudden inroad of the eastern tribes, soon crush the least attempt 
 at industry, and discourage speculation ; for so woefully precarious is 
 the tenure by which the villagers maintain their lives and property, 
 that the agriculturist pursues his ordinary labour with a musket 
 ready loaded by his side. The armed fellahin of our escort have 
 apparently imbibed a spirit of external devotion from the pilgrims ; 
 or, perhaps, they are habitually more attentive to the daily forms 
 of their religion ; as regards the usual ceremonies of muttered 
 prayers, accompanied by prostrations towards Mecca. 
 
 Wednesday , April 24 th The night was very sultry, almost to 
 
 suffocation, and in consequence we had but little sleep ; while, long 
 before daylight, we heard a buzzing noise within the pilgrim camp ; 
 betokening that the vast assemblage was, even at that early hour, 
 already making preparations to depart. At three a.m. the Agha’s 
 bugle sounded the reveil ; and at its cheerful call, the motley host 
 was instantly in motion. The quiet regularity with which so many 
 thousand people, of all ages, left the scene of their encampment ; and 
 swelled, without confusion or an angry word, the train of weary 
 travellers returning to Jerusalem, appeared to us more wonderful than 
 any other part of their proceedings ; and by sunrise, when we ourselves 
 prepared to take a willing leave of Jericho, not one single straggler 
 from that countless multitude, seemingly remained behind. Nothing 
 of any kind to denote their recent presence could be discerned, 
 except some solitary white tents, and a few smouldering embers. We 
 passed a blazing thorn thicket, which may have accidentally caught 
 fire ; and the heat from it was scorching, as we quickly rode close 
 by. Pickets of Turkish cavalry were stationed at short intervals 
 along our route ; fierce looking fellows, it is true — but their character 
 
288 
 
 FROM JERICHO TO JERUSALEM. 
 
 is sadly wronged, if they would not leave us in the lurch, and run 
 away, should any real danger put their steadiness and courage 
 actually to the test. The scenery upon the Plain of Jericho, apart 
 from the purely oriental aspect of its luxuriant vegetation, bears 
 much resemblance to the smiling landscape of an English park. 
 Neglect and spoliation have not yet destroyed the natural fertility of 
 this once favoured district. The nubk is the largest tree indigenous 
 to the soil ; but there are also others of spontaneous growth, with 
 widely spreading branches. Among the great variety of “ feathered 
 fowl,” we saw some brown and yellow birds, about the size of turtle 
 doves — their note is not so pretty as their plumage, being peculiarly 
 harsh and disagreeable. From the summit of “the red pass” — for 
 so must be translated “the going up to Adummim” — we looked 
 back towards Er-Kiha ; the view was altogether very beautiful, and 
 extremely interesting from the many different objects it at one glance 
 combined. The winding river, with its verdant belt of foliage — the 
 lifeless, leaden coloured “ Sea of Lot ”— the trans-Jordanic and Judcean 
 mountains, with their steep, forbidding cliffs — and the still rich Plain 
 of Jericho, with its ancient castles, and remains of Eoman arches, 
 aqueducts, and walls of unknown buildings, peeping out among the 
 bright green trees, formed a romantically fine and striking picture ; 
 the present earnest of that future blessedness when “ the waters . . . 
 from under the threshold of the house eastward . . . being brought 
 forth into the sea, the waters shall be healed . . . and everything 
 shall live whither the river comcth.” The heavy atmosphere we 
 breathed laboriously on lower ground, was left behind by very 
 slow degrees, as we ascended through the rocky chasms of the sterile 
 Wilderness of Judma. We rode upwards at a tolerably brisk pace, 
 considering the exceedingly rugged paths we were obliged to tread ; 
 for the main body of Greek pilgrims had made marvellously good 
 speed ; and, by allowing them to gain a few hours’ start of our caravan, 
 
ABU DIS. 
 
 289 
 
 we fortunately avoided the necessity of mingling with the crowd ; 
 but which we had before done from preference, in our anxiety to 
 see as much as possible, on the way down to Jericho. Gradually 
 we came up with tired wayfarers ; and it was painful to observe that 
 these were often aged people — left on the road, it would appear, by 
 their younger and more robust companions, to pursue their tedious 
 journey to Jerusalem as they best were able. Some of these weary 
 pilgrims had large bundles of tall reeds to carry ; others, the garments 
 they themselves had worn when bathing, or those which they were 
 kindly taking to their distant friends. The sacred water of the river 
 Jordan proved, not unfrequently, an irresistible temptation to assuage 
 their thirst ; and, instead of being inviolably preserved for future 
 baptisms, it was used as a restorative — a purpose far more needful 
 at the moment. We could not wonder at these heated worn-out 
 travellers drinking that “ holy ” water, when no other could be found 
 within their reach ; but even our Arab fellahin insisted upon sharing 
 the supply of these poor creatures; which, of course, aroused the 
 indignation of our party, who quickly put a stop to such a cruel act 
 of selfishness. We rested half an hour at En-shemesh, “the Apostles’ 
 Well” — a halting place for many of the pilgrims. The Turkish 
 soldiers who escorted them seemed thoroughly fatigued by their 
 exertions, and some were lying fast asleep upon the rocks and stones. 
 The water here, when freshly taken from the fountain, appeared so 
 full of little worms, it was impossible to touch it — but a temporary 
 khan had been newly raised for the occasion, which produced a 
 great abundance of good refreshing coffee. Upon a rocky height, 
 “ over against,” and at a distance of about a mile from Bethany, 
 stands the ruined hamlet of Abu Dis — by a few writers thought to 
 be the site of Bethphage. Its modern name is that of a notorious 
 robber chief, who for a long time made his stronghold there, and 
 terrified the inhabitants of the surrounding country by his deeds of 
 
 u 
 
290 
 
 JERUSALEM 
 
 reckless daring. As we toiled slowly up the rough and stony path 
 which leads from thence to Bethany, the wind rose suddenly to such 
 a boisterous gale, it was difficult to proceed at all. We met with 
 several women on the way, descending towards the fountain we had 
 lately left, to fill large water jars, which they carried nicely balanced 
 on their heads — loaded already with a ponderous weight of silver 
 coins, their tout ensemble was gaily picturesque. Beneath their outer 
 garments of blue cloth they wore loose robes of calico, formed of 
 two different and contrasting colours, sewn lengthways in wide 
 stripes, alternately. From Bethany to Jerusalem we took the lower 
 road — that rugged path, in many places cut out of the rocks that 
 skirt the southern base of Olivet, so often hallowed by the footsteps 
 of the “ Man of Sorrows,” when His sinless life on earth was very 
 nearly ended ; and from the peaceful village and the humble house 
 of Lazarus, He went to “ do the will of Him that sent Him,” and 
 “ taught daily in the Temple,” at Jerusalem. At noon we reached 
 the Holy City, and entered by St. Stephen’s Gate. The sound of 
 blasting rocks is heard at intervals, clearing foundations for a church 
 to be erected by the Russians, immediately beyond the gate of Zion. 
 The Pasha’s troops patrol the streets and alleys day and night, 
 attended by a military band of music, monotonous to a wearisome degree. 
 
 Thursday, April 2bth . — From Mrs. Finn we gained to-day some 
 local information that was extremely interesting. This lady’s heart 
 and soul are seemingly devoted to the Hebrew cause. Especially 
 alluding to her property at Urtas ; when offering employment to an 
 Israelite, she says, “You see this piece of ground — make what you 
 “ can of it ; it is not mine to give you, as it is yours already by 
 “ inheritance ; however, if by your means it makes a due return within 
 “ a given time, it then shall in reality become your own possession, 
 “ or at least the heritage of your children.” Through Palestine, a 
 similar mode of transferring the land, verbally and before witnesses, 
 
JERUSALEM 
 
 291 
 
 has continually been practised, ever since the days of Abraham ; the 
 law is wonderfully simple, and yet it always is considered valid, and 
 the Turks have never ventured to dispute it. A Jew was mentioned, 
 in particular, who now earns his livelihood as a mason in the city, 
 receiving wages at the rate of a dollar every day ; he once was very 
 glad to be employed in cutting stones upon the agricultural farm outside 
 the Jaffa gate. This “ ploughing up the ground,” whether using the 
 expression literally, or merely in a figurative sense, is the best and most 
 effectual means of assisting the efforts of our missionaries to sow the 
 seeds of Gospel truth deep in the Jewish heart ; and break in pieces 
 that hard crust of prejudice which too long has covered the good soil 
 within. To make the Jewish people independent of their rabbis, 
 would add immensely to the power of Christian influence among God’s 
 “ chosen people,” and remove the greatest obstacle to their conversion 
 with which now we have to deal. A library and museum have been 
 established by the British Consul, in connection with the Jerusalem 
 Literary Society ; the collection as regards them both is very limited 
 at present, from deficiency of funds. But the trite old saying is a 
 very true one, that “ great things often come from small beginnings ; ” 
 and some excellent books have already been given to the library ; 
 while the museum contains several interesting objects, of much 
 curiosity and value to the archeologist. There are sculptured slabs 
 from Nineveh, sent here direct across the country by Mr. Layard ; 
 two stone boxes, each containing human bones ; and large sarcophagi, 
 very beautiful, and in perfect preservation ; one of which is richly 
 ornamented, and has a pent-house lid — all found upon the Mount 
 of Olives ; enormous acorns from the oaks of Gilead ; antique lamps 
 in earthenware and in bronze ; two round glass vases, dug up at Tyre 
 — so delicately fragile, it is dangerous to touch them ; a variety of 
 curious fossils from the Lebanon ; a few Hebrew, Greek, and Boman 
 coins ; and a very handsome bronze helmet, adorned with human 
 
292 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 figures in relief, found lately among the Moab mountains — its form 
 pronounced by Mr. Saltzmann to be Greek, and of the period of 
 Diocletian, 160 B.c. 
 
 Friday , April 2 Gth. — Our fellow-travellers through the desert 
 have commenced their journey northward, and we accompanied them 
 half way to Bireh. They wished to start soon after breakfast, but 
 were obliged to wait until the city gates were opened ; and which 
 on this day of the week, the Moslem Sabbath, are always closed 
 during the time of morning service in the mosques — invariably 
 including twelve o’clock. This usage has prevailed for centuries, 
 arising from a universal notion that the Holy City will again 
 be entered by some conquering Christian army, on a Friday, at 
 the hour of noon ; for thus, in fact, Jerusalem was really taken once 
 before, by the Crusaders ; who were commanded by that good and 
 valiant general, the celebrated Godfrey de Bouillon, 1199 a.d. 
 The surface of the ground is stony everywhere, and overlaid with 
 sheets of smooth white rock. This “ goodly land ” seems truly 
 “laid up in a napkin,” and now “enjoys her Sabbaths” for a 
 little while ; just as the dark impenetrable veil of error hides from 
 rebellious Israel the face of God ; and yet, “ He hath not cast away 
 His people ; ” “ they are beloved for the fathers’ sakes.” Remains 
 may here and there be traced of the old city walls, which extended 
 farther north than that of Sult&n Selim ; and many an ancient 
 cistern, some of them still in use, bears evidence that a large 
 portion of this elevated tract — in outward aspect but a barren 
 waste, excepting for the noble olive trees, which thrive luxuriantly 
 and grow to a prodigious size — was formerly inhabited, or at least 
 divided into suburban fields and gardens. Jerusalem, taken as a 
 picture, is viewed to best advantage from the northern side, although 
 the summit of the Mount of Olives is the only spot from whence 
 we gain a view of the interior ; while the approach towards the 
 
POOLS OF G1IION. 
 
 293 
 
 city by the lower road from Bethany, apart from all its claims 
 upon the Christian’s love and reverence, is far more beautiful and 
 striking. We visited the Grotto of Jeremiah, where a local church 
 tradition says the afflicted prophet wrote his Lamentations ; and not, 
 as other legends state, at the Egyptian On. This cave is situated 
 on the eastern face of a high rock, artificially perpendicular ; being 
 doubtless cut away from Mount Bezetha, and of course for some 
 important object, to a length of nearly 1500 feet. The grotto 
 measures fifty yards in depth, and its floor is covered with water 
 during most part of the year. There is a wide court in front of 
 it, containing a small Turkish cemetery, a few fine olive trees, a 
 cistern, and an old well ; the whole protected by a substantial wall 
 and doorway, kept locked both day and night; and a very civil 
 dervish, who has made his habitation there, takes charge of a 
 Mohammedan oratory within the cave. His little snow-white donkey 
 fives there also, its tail and forehead stained with henna. The 
 general effect of this fine cavern is completely spoiled by modern 
 innovations, and all that can be needed to make an ordinary Moslem 
 dwelling. The usual occupant, and two other dervishes, propped up 
 with cushions, sat smoking their long pipes ; and the broad stone 
 divans, on which they lazily reclined, were comfortably spread with 
 carpets. Dr. Barclay imagines that formerly there was a passage of 
 communication between this grotto and the summit of the hill ; 
 which may therefore have been once a mighty stronghold of Jerusalem. 
 From thence, at the commencement of the Valley of Hinnom, we 
 passed the “ conduit ” and the “ upper pool ” of Gilion. This reservoir 
 is 300 feet long by 200 in breadth, and 18 in depth, and by its 
 side was Solomon anointed King. Some distance farther down, the 
 ravine is crossed by an arched aqueduct, conveying water from the 
 Pools of Solomon into the enclosure of the ancient Temple; and 
 immediately beyond, where the Wady Gehinnom, as it is now called, 
 
294 
 
 GREEK CONVENT OF THE HOLY CROSS. 
 
 sweeps round the south-western base of Zion, towards the Valley of 
 Jehoshaphat, lies another reservoir — Birket es-Sultan — much larger 
 than the other, and commonly regarded as the “ lower pool.” Occupying 
 the entire width of the ravine, it is protected at both ends by strong 
 and solidly built walls. The great thickness of the southern wall 
 allows a pathway to be carried over it, which joins the usual road 
 to Bethlehem. This tank is about 600 feet in length, in breadth 
 250 feet, and 40 feet in depth. Directly overhead, the south-west 
 angle of the city wall, crowning with its Saracenic battlements the 
 steepest part of the acclivity, presents a formidably imposing aspect. 
 
 Within a shallow wady, one mile south-westward of the Jaffa 
 Gate, is situated the Greek Convent of the Holy Cross. The basilica 
 was founded by the Georgians, so early as the fifth century, and is 
 supposed to be the oldest church in Palestine. For the name it always 
 bears, two rival derivations are assigned ; but the favourite notion 
 clings to its imagined occupation of the very spot of ground, where 
 grew the tree from which the Cross on Calvary was made. The 
 other legendary story states that, when the Patriarch Heraclius 
 returned to Jerusalem from his long captivity in Persia, bringing the 
 true Cross back with him, that sacred relic was, in the first instance, 
 set up here. The Convent, after undergoing several vicissitudes, has 
 of late years been thoroughly repaired, if not almost entirely rebuilt, 
 with very great additions, by the Russians, to form a large collegiate 
 establishment. The dormitories, halls, refectories, corridors, and class 
 rooms are admirably well arranged ; and the students appear to receive 
 a good and useful education — including French, Italian, Arabic, and 
 modern Greek, geography, drawing, and arithmetic. The building 
 is rectangular, with very massive walls, and the entrance, through a 
 low stone portal, is strongly guarded by an iron door of immense 
 thickness. It has been truly observed that the effect of Russian gold 
 is seldom more apparent, than in the renovated condition and comfort 
 
GREEK CONVENT OF THE HOLY CROSS. 
 
 295 
 
 of the generality of Greek religious edifices near the Holy City ; nor 
 do any of the inhabitants bestow such care and watchfulness upon 
 the natural fertility of the soil, or cultivate the ground with such 
 continually unwearied industry. Some olive groves are flourishing 
 around the convent, and also a few fields and vegetable gardens. 
 The church is very handsome, and from its great antiquity repays 
 the time and trouble of a stranger’s visit. It is about seventy feet 
 long, and divided into nave and aisles by four square piers. The 
 walls are covered with faded frescoes of Greek saints, each holding 
 in one hand a scroll, inscribed with characters in Georgian Greek. 
 Sculpture is forbidden in the Greek church ; but in some paintings 
 here, there was a near approach to it, in figures cut out in thin 
 wood, with stones and jewels inlaid into the dresses, and mounted 
 very neatly upon the pictures. It is said the nimbus is almost 
 invariably of pure gold. Pre-eminent among these ancient worthies 
 is that sorry saint St. George, fighting his famous battle with the 
 Dragon. Although these antique paintings are grotesque and rudely 
 executed, they nevertheless are full of spirit and expression on the 
 whole. The floor is paved with fine mosaic, chiefly white, which is 
 considered of the earliest date ; but in the central part, beneath the 
 cupola, are remains of a beautiful mosaic pavement of Arabesque 
 design, in black and red medallions. The altar-screen is painted in 
 compartments ; the drawings are upon a gilded ground, and illustrate 
 the fancied history of the wood which made the Cross, from the 
 time of its first planting until the Crucifixion of our blessed Lord. 
 Behind this curious screen is shown a little hole, edged round 
 with silver, where the tree, we must believe, once really grew ! An 
 evening service was going on when we were there, and everybody 
 present held a lighted taper in his hand, for which he had to pay. 
 The air this afternoon was very pleasant, for the day has been 
 extremely close and warm. 
 
296 
 
 THE “ SHEPHERDS’ FIELD.” 
 
 Saturday , April 21th . — In whatever direction we may turn, the 
 Greeks and Russians, co-religionists, are now building, or have already 
 built, their churches and commodious convents, hospitals and schools ; 
 besides some agricultural farms, laid out upon a most extensive scale. 
 But though this superficial change is wrought upon a scene that has 
 for many centuries been left to ruin and decay, the alteration is 
 unnatural, and cannot be of any real benefit in the end. Hundreds 
 of people, it is true, now earn their bread by those employments 
 which they sought in vain before; but the greater part of these are 
 strangers in the land. The works themselves are generally unsuited 
 to the country, or to the requirements of its inhabitants ; who can, 
 however, readily detect the selfish motives which often govern 
 European cabinets ; and, cordially despising base intrigues, they will 
 not be deluded by a feigned disinterestedness of policy. They long 
 for better government than that of Turkey, and would prefer the 
 gentle rule of Queen Victoria to that of either Russian Czar or 
 Emperor of the French. The exterior of the Jewish Almshouses, 
 erected by Sir Moses Montefiore, near the Zion Gate, resembles a 
 long range of those so frequently to be seen in England ; they are 
 always full of residents, and look very comfortable. 
 
 We rode to Bethlehem this morning ; and never did those 
 beautifully wooded slopes, and fertile valleys, appear to us more 
 lovely than they did to-day. All plenteous in flocks and herds, in 
 fruit and grain, each vineyard is protected by its solitary watch- 
 tower — the “ corn, and wine, and oil,” in vivid contrast with 
 the barren rocks and stones which meet the eye from almost every 
 point of view in Palestine. We purchased from the Bethlehemites 
 a few carved shells and rosaries, and then proceeded southwards, 
 for about a mile, to see the “ Shepherds’ Field,” still a rich verdant 
 plain, and probably it has ever been a favourite pasture land. Here 
 David, “son of Jesse,” must have wandered day by day; and 
 
TOMB OF DAVID. 
 
 297 
 
 hither, in all likelihood, did other watchful “shepherds” once hear 
 with trembling an angel’s voice, which spake “ glad tidings of great 
 joy,” and bade them “ fear not.” This field, being scarcely in the 
 ordinary route of travellers, and rather difficult of access, is not so 
 often visited as the Church of the Nativity. It contains the usual 
 grotto , converted into a chapel by the Latins; but lately the Greek 
 Church has bought this piece of sacred ground, and already pre- 
 parations are being made for building a new convent ; which will, 
 of course, entirely deprive the place of that simplicity attached to 
 rural life, especially to a sight so fraught with old ideas of pastoral 
 quietude. We brought away a branch from one of the fine olive 
 trees that must have long been planted there, and hastily returned 
 towards Jerusalem — warned not to linger by some drops of rain, 
 and a dark lowering sky. The Fullers’ Field lay near the “upper 
 pool ” of Gihon, and is twice mentioned in the Old Testament ; 
 first, when the Lord commanded that Isaiah, with his son Shear- 
 jashub, should meet King Ahab there ; and, secondly, it was from 
 “ the highway of the fullers’ field ” that the Assyrian general, 
 Rabshakeh, addressed in impious defiance the men upon the city 
 wall. A piece of rising ground, north-west of the Damascus Gate, 
 is generally supposed to be the place, according to Josephus, where 
 the Roman conqueror, Titus, pitched his camp, “within the new 
 city;” and the same writer tells us that this spot was occupied 
 by the invading army of Sennacherib, when “the angel of the Lord 
 went forth, and smote in the camp of the Assyrians an hundred 
 and fourscore and five thousand.” The sepulchre of King David 
 was undoubtedly upon Mount Zion ; and tradition does not vary, 
 in this instance, from the plain historic statements of the word of 
 God. It stands about two hundred yards beyond the Zion Gate ; 
 and devoutly as they esteem the Great Mosque within the Har&m, 
 the Mohammedans revere far more the tomb of Neby Daud, which 
 
298 
 
 CIIURCn OF TIIE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 
 
 is most jealously kept closed against both Jews and Christians. Sir 
 Moses Montefiore was admitted, with his party, into the mosque 
 erected over it, but not into the vault beneath. The site, so early 
 as the fourth century, was occupied by a Christian chapel ; and it 
 is probable that Solomon, and many other kings of Israel and 
 Judah, were also buried there. Numbers of Jews may constantly 
 
 be seen, hovering around this ancient building, upon the venerable 
 walls of which they look with mournful sadness and affection. 
 Marvellous stories are related in connection with attempts to 
 desecrate these royal sepulchres, and rifle them in search of treasure. 
 Still more untenable is the old Church idea, which locates above 
 this mosque that “ Upper Room,” where our Lord and Saviour ate 
 “ the passover with His disciples ; ” the monks’ tradition naming it 
 also as the place where the Apostles subsequently met for worship, 
 and the scene of the miraculous effusion of the Holy Spirit on the 
 day of Pentecost. Miss Barclay, an American lady, has described 
 her visit to this sacred place, in her father’s valuable work, “ The 
 City of the Great King ; ” she was indebted for this privilege to 
 the friendship of a Moslem lady, nearly related to the curator of 
 the tomb, and who endangered her own safety in thus presuming 
 to infringe a strict and well-known law, by which even Mussulman 
 ecclesiastics can scarcely gain admittance within these holy precincts. 
 The tomb of David is an immense sarcophagus, apparently of rough 
 stone, covered with green satin tapestry, embroidered richly in gold. 
 The room itself is small in its dimensions, but is furnished very 
 gorgeously; at one end of it, a curtain of black velvet tapestry, 
 embroidered handsomely in silver, conceals a little door, which leads 
 into a cave beneath. 
 
 Late in the afternoon we visited the Church of the Holy 
 Sepulchre, which always leaves a painful feeling on the mind — a 
 lingering hope against the site being genuine. No guarantee has 
 
CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 
 
 299 
 
 ever yet been given for its identity; but every Christian has an 
 unconscious interest in that patchwork group of buildings; chiefly 
 resulting from its very eventful history, and the sacred name it 
 bears ; and also from the endless learned controversy it has in vain 
 occasioned. Whatever archaeologists and historians may allege, in 
 defence of certain theories, and the circuit of the ancient walls, 
 when planning the topography of old Jerusalem, credulity will 
 hardly reach so far in modern days as to believe in all the “ holy 
 places ” so conveniently comprised within a single area. In front 
 of the basilica is an open court, thronged with the vendors of 
 carved shells, and rosaries in wood and stone, and entered by two 
 small doors, of three feet high. Parts of the Greek convent enclose 
 three sides of this large square, which several remains of col umn s 
 prove to have been originally a cloister. The entrance to the 
 church is by a double and deeply-receding Gothic portal, of 
 crusading times ; only one door of which is ever opened now, the 
 other being long ago walled up. The entire facade looks quaintly 
 picturesque — all that is European combining strangely with the 
 Oriental imagery around. Above this portal is the central dome, 
 adorned with sixty sculptured capitals, of the time of Herod, from 
 whose temple they are said to have been taken. The whole interior 
 of the edifice appears dilapidated, and very dirty ; the great rotunda 
 of the nave, built over the reputed sepulchre of our Lord, and 
 surrounded by a lofty colonnade, supporting spacious galleries, was 
 erected superficially from the first, and at present is in a most 
 disgraceful state of ruin and decay — its rent and tattered cupola 
 freely allowing access to both sun and rain. And yet this tawdry 
 and neglected fane has always been considered the grand cathedral 
 of Christendom ! The national churches of both East and West, 
 with the one Protestant exception, all meet together here — but 
 not in amity — and claim their separate shrines. M. Saltzmann 
 
300 
 
 CHURCH OF THE nOLY SEPULCHRE. 
 
 mentions that five distinct periods are clearly evident in the con- 
 struction of these buildings ; beginning from their first erection, 
 during the reign of Constantine, and ending in their incongruous 
 restoration by a Greek architect from Mytelene, soon after the 
 terribly destructive fire which broke out in the chapel of the 
 Armenians, during the night of October 12, a.d. 1808, in a gallery 
 on the south side of the rotunda. The Holy Sepulchre itself is 
 enclosed within a little chapel, of white and yellow marble, pen- 
 tagonal at its western end, and ornamented with pilasters and 
 twisted semi-columns; it measures rather more than twenty-six feet 
 long by about eighteen in breadth, and is surmounted by a crown- 
 shaped dome. The exterior is completely spoiled by artificial flowers, 
 and shabby looking plaster angels ; even the small silver lamps, so 
 gracefully festooned in front, would be infinitely prettier elsewhere. 
 At the low door of entrance each visitor puts off his shoes ; and 
 then he is allowed to stand within a sort of ante-chamber, called 
 “ The Chapel of the Angel,” where at once he is directed to observe, 
 raised from the middle of the floor upon a pedestal, a fragment of 
 the veritable stone which was “ rolled away from the sepulchre,” 
 on the morning of our blessed Saviour’s resurrection ! This gloomy 
 apartment opens, by a low narrow door, into the inner “sanctuary,” 
 a vaulted chamber, measuring six feet by seven, and lighted 
 brilliantly by a number of gold, silver, and brass lamps, kept 
 burning night and day. The sarcophagus is covered with white 
 marble, and serves the purpose of an altar; but not a vestige of 
 the living rock is anywhere perceptible. In former centuries, the 
 tombs of Godfrey de Bouillon and his brother Baldwin stood at 
 the entrance of a small chapel, near the great south portal ; but 
 Greek fanaticism, hating the memorials of these heroic princes of 
 the short-lived Latin kingdom of Jerusalem, took advantage of the 
 dreadful fire which, in 1808, destroyed in particular this portion of 
 
crrimcH of toe holy sepulchre. 
 
 301 
 
 the church ; and not content with defacing still further the little 
 that remained, they subsequently swept away all traces of these 
 tombs, and also every vestige of the seven sepulchres of their 
 successors. The bones which they contained had been long before 
 exhumed, and were ruthlessly scattered to the winds, during an 
 invasion of ferocious barbarians from the East, A.D. 1244. This 
 evening the rotunda was one blaze of coloured lamps; the Roman 
 Catholic masses were over for the day ; but every other altar was 
 illuminated, and service going on. This is a wise arrangement of 
 the Turks; for here, at least, the Latin rule again predominates, 
 above all rival sects, in the present possession, by that part of 
 Christendom, of a “ lion’s share ” at the innumerable “ holy stations.” 
 The multitude of pilgrims was dense to suffocation, and we therefore 
 went away almost directly. In readiness for to-morrow — the 
 Greek “ Palm Sunday,” — people were struggling through the 
 crowd, to sell the branches of that tree ; of which great quantities 
 are brought from Jaffa, on occasion of these religious festivals 
 among the Greeks ; but the Latins always have their palm branches 
 from Gaza. We purchased one of them, as a remembrance ; for 
 they are tied and twisted very prettily, and with extreme neatness. 
 Devotees, of either sex, devoutly kissed the “ stone of unction,” 
 upon which, we are informed, the body of our Lord was laid, to 
 be anointed, after it was taken down from the cross ; encased 
 with marble, and standing exactly opposite the grand portal, it 
 resembles an ordinary tombstone, surrounded by a low railing, and 
 has several lamps suspended over it. A very large body of the 
 Pasha’s soldiery was in attendance, and many of the officers and 
 men wore the English Crimean medal. These troops were spread 
 through the interior of the church, and occupied the open court 
 in front of it ; we saw them stationed everywhere, with bayonets 
 fixed, intent upon preserving order. The scene was deeply 
 
302 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 interesting, and full of strange excitement ; although I must confess 
 that, at the moment, there was very little to arouse religious 
 feeling. Superstition and imposture, armed with subtle weapons, 
 are ever ready at these tempting seasons to assert their own 
 dominion ; and, alas ! too often do they prove victorious, when 
 thus brought side by side with much that is of real and unaffected 
 piety. The wind blows furiously to-night, and the rain pours down 
 in torrents ; the dark blue curtain which protects the marble chapel 
 of the Holy Sepulchre from being injured by inclement weather, is 
 certainly required in an especial manner now. The climate of 
 Jerusalem is considered by the residents to be delightful during 
 spring and autumn months ; but at midsummer, the heat and glare 
 of sunshine are said to be almost beyond endurance ; while the 
 atmosphere within the city is then so thoroughly impregnated with 
 dust and mauvaises o dears, that the European inhabitants encamp 
 without the walls, from the early part of May until the middle of 
 October. Between the “former and the latter rains” — namely, 
 midwinter — the weather is particularly agreeable ; but only for a 
 very short time. In January and February there is often frost 
 and snow ; and hailstones, as large as peas, are sometimes mingled 
 with the rain. The houses have not proper sewerage ; they are 
 in general very damp and badly ventilated ; their walls and roofs 
 are of prodigious thickness, although built of porous stone ; cisterns 
 and reservoirs unnumbered abound in all directions; many of them 
 vaulted over, and half full of stagnant rainwater — for they are 
 intended to contain a year’s supply. Ague and intermittent fever 
 is the natural result of this unhealthy state of things ; and even 
 little children are frequently carried off by those diseases. Whenever 
 the autumnal, or the “ early rain,” has failed, the cisterns become 
 empty, and appalling scarcity ensues. Strict fasting is ordained, and 
 public prayers arc offered by Christians, Jews, and Moslems ; every 
 
“ PALM SUNDAY.” 303 
 
 drop of water must be brought into the city from the Pool and 
 Fountain of Siloam, carried in skins by donkey loads, for which the 
 poorest people cannot possibly afford to pay. That a vast portion 
 of the rain “in his due season,” is yet withheld from Palestine, 
 clearly belongs to the prophetic curse denounced upon the land ; 
 but when once more the Israelites return, their now desolate places 
 shall lie waste no longer ; their “ goodly heritage . . . shall yield 
 her increase,” and be again what Moses so emphatically describes — 
 “ a land of brooks of water, of fountains and depths, that spring 
 out of valleys and hills . . . that drinketh water of the rain of 
 heaven.” Our close proximity to the Pool of Hezekiah is anything 
 but salubrious, and we are annoyed by huge black beetles and 
 mosquitoes. My husband paid a visit to the Superior of the Latin 
 convent, and bought some rosaries and crosses from the monks, 
 who have always a large stock of “ holy wares ” on hand, and 
 give employment to the poor in making them. They are sent 
 from hence, in quantities, to almost every part of the world ; the 
 last supply of any magnitude was lately forwarded to Mexico. 
 
 The Greek Palm Sunday , April 28 th. — My husband went at seven 
 a.m. to the church of the Holy Sepulchre ; and from a gallery in the 
 rotunda, he obtained an excellent view of the Greek ceremony of 
 “ blessing the palm branches.” The dresses of the higher clergy are 
 gorgeously magnificent ; and the mitre of the Patriarch is studded 
 with large precious stones, the gifts of wealthy Russians, who like to 
 manifest their piety in this unprofitable and costly way. High mass 
 was solemnized before the Holy Sepulchre ; immediately after which 
 the Patriarch bestowed his benediction upon innumerable palm 
 branches ; and beginning with ecclesiastics, and the most distinguished 
 laymen present, he gave them to their owners, one by one. The 
 scene was pleasing on the whole, considering the revolting rites 
 habitually sanctioned by the Eastern churches. 
 
304 
 
 RIDE TO NEBY SAMWfL. 
 
 We have had tlie pleasure of becoming acquainted with the 
 amiable and very learned Prussian Consul, Dr. Eosen, who has lived 
 for several years at Jerusalem. A Lutheran Protestant by religion, 
 he takes a cordial interest in the Mission here — so warmly patronized 
 by his own Sovereign, as well as by our well-beloved Queen. 
 
 Monday, April 29th. — Soon after ten this morning we left the 
 city by the Jaffa Gate, and, turning northwards, we descended into the 
 stony flower-strewn Wady Beit Hanina ; leaving, on our right, the 
 “ Tombs ” of unknown “ Judges and, more distant still, the so-called 
 “Tomb of Helena” (Queen of Adiabene) — or “The Kings.” We 
 visited these splendid sepulchres on our former journey to Jerusalem, 
 and did not take the trouble of entering them again. As elaborately 
 sculptured, and wonderfully contrived monuments of past ages, they 
 are valuable, and extremely interesting ; but they cannot claim 
 antiquity which reaches back to ancient Jewish times. No record 
 has been found to mark their origin ; and, where history mentions 
 them at all, it is in vague and unimportant language. Each writer 
 on the Holy City has ventured to set up a theory of his own, which 
 merely leaves the subject hopelessly doubtful and mysterious. A 
 similar instance of obscurity occurs not far below the southern 
 summit of the Mount of Olives ; where are some catacombs of very 
 great extent, and differing in arrangement from any other caverns 
 yet discovered near Jerusalem. So far as antiquarians have 
 
 hitherto been able to explore these curious sepulchres, there are 
 no remains whatever of either writing or sarcophagi, to throw 
 the faintest glimmering of light upon their age and probable 
 designation. “ Tombs of the Prophets,” is the common name they 
 bear ; but they are certainly not those to which our Saviour 
 alluded, as being built by the self-righteous and haughty Pharisees. 
 We rode to Neby Samwil, the highest of the “mountains” which 
 “ stand round about Jerusalem ;” its rocky sides are cultivated in 
 
NEBY SAMWlL. 
 
 305 
 
 terraces, producing grapes and figs in great abundance ; and here and 
 there we meet with ancient cisterns. To reach the summit, we ascended 
 by a steeply winding path — a half hour’s scramble from the deep 
 ravine of Beit Hanina. The view is singularly extensive. An 
 empty and neglected mosque, erected by the Crusaders for a Latin 
 church and convent, stands over the traditionary tomb of Samuel the 
 Prophet ; and a small hamlet clusters near it, with a pretty fountain 
 in the centre ; the houses, formed of very old materials, are partly 
 excavated in the living rock. There is an air of dignified antiquity 
 about the place ; which proves, beyond all reasonable doubt, that a site 
 so lofty and conspicuous as the top of Neby Samwil — which abruptly 
 rises to a height of five or six hundred feet above the verdant plain 
 of Gibeon — and with a noble prospect which commands the whole of 
 central Palestine, and many points of interest in the “ South country,” 
 was originally, and from the earliest period, selected for a city or a 
 fortress ; the only marvel being that its ancient history still remains 
 obscure. The opinion of Dr. Robinson has been of late most generally 
 adopted ; that Mizpah, a name which signifies a “ watch tower,” may 
 with certainty be located upon this elevated ridge. Mizpah, the 
 famous gathering place of the twelve tribes of Israel — where Saul, 
 the son of Kish, was chosen as their king, and crowned by Samuel, 
 in obedience to Divine appointment — continued to be a town of vast 
 importance long subsequent to that event. This eminence became, 
 two thousand years afterwards, “ Mount Joy ” of the Crusaders, — “ a 
 very fair and delicious place ; ” and here the chivalrous Richard, Cceur 
 de Lion , leaving his warrior camp at Ajalon, stood mournfully to gaze 
 upon that holy city he had vainly tried to rescue from the infidel 
 Saracens ; and hiding his face with his shield, he burst into an agony 
 of disappointed grief ; refusing to be welcomed as an honoured guest 
 by his brave and gallant foe, the yet unconquered Saladin. Crossing 
 the little Plain of Gibeon, where “five kings of the Amorites” once 
 
 x 
 
306 
 
 GIBEON. 
 
 assembled their united forces, to punish the deceitful Gibeonites for 
 making an alliance with Joshua and the host of Israel, we clambered 
 to the summit of an isolated hill, composed entirely of limestone, the 
 horizontal layers of which occasionally form flights of steps, by no 
 means easy for even a Syrian horse to climb. Wherever the acclivities 
 do not appear too steep for cultivation, they are thickly clothed with 
 trees ; or the natural rocky terraces are carefully divided into vineyards. 
 All round, extends a beautifully verdant plain ; covered, where corn has 
 not been sown, like rich meadow land, with a smooth sward of emerald 
 green ; and sprinkled with luxuriant orchards, vineyards, and olive 
 groves. El Jib, the modern representative of the once “great city,” 
 Gibeon — where mighty Solomon, in his youthful days, asked humbly 
 of the Lord “ a wise and understanding heart” — can boast remains of 
 well-constructed dwelling-houses, though woefully dilapidated now ; and 
 built without the slightest regularity of position. One massive structure, 
 more important in appearance than the rest, and having vaulted lower 
 chambers, is supposed to have been formerly a kind of citadel, or 
 castle ; and a few old Roman coins are sometimes dug up in the 
 neighbourhood. At the eastern side of the hill, we saw a copious 
 fountain, which springs up within an excavated subterranean cavern, 
 and flows out beneath a low-browed cliff. The ancient “ Pool of 
 Gibeon ” may still be seen, not far below this fountain ; but sadly 
 ruined and decayed. It is an enormous open tank of solid 
 workmanship, exactly similar to the larger reservoir at Hebron ; and, 
 doubtless, it was by this very “Pool” where Abner held his memorable 
 interview with Joab ; when, in reply to Abner’s bloody challenge, twelve 
 young men of Benjamin fought fiercely with twelve others of the tribe 
 of Judah ; and so desperate on both sides was the conflict, that every 
 one of them was slain — “ so that they fell down together.” We 
 had an exceedingly fatiguing ride across the country from Gibeon to 
 Anata — “Anathoth” — the birth-place of the prophet Jeremiah; and 
 
ANATHOTH. 
 
 307 
 
 until lie was compelled to flee from bitter persecution, and take refuge 
 with his family and kindred in Jerusalem, it seems to have been 
 usually his residence. My husband found the shortest route by 
 trusting to the map ; the guide confessing himself totally at fault, 
 because we would not be restrained within the customary daily round 
 of hurried tourists. The barren rocky fastnesses of the small but valiant 
 tribe of Benjamin were no doubt admirably suited to their habitual 
 system of predatory warfare. The fearful “ ups and downs ” we were 
 per force obliged to traverse, were often nearly perpendicular ; but 
 our excellent and steady horses never even stumbled, and proved 
 themselves to be most indefatigable climbers. Excepting now and 
 then a miserable village, where dogs rushed out, like hungry wolves, 
 to bark as we passed by ; and a few black goats and sheep — the 
 man in charge of them provided with a clumsy fowling piece, and 
 clamouring eagerly for “ backsheesh ” — we saw nothing on the way 
 but a succession of white limestone ridges and rugged unproductive 
 glens. Anata occupies a rather elevated situation, at the distance of 
 about an hour and a quarter to the northward of Jerusalem. It is 
 merely a wretched village at the present day ; but portions of the 
 ancient city wall, and old foundations, constructed of immense hewn 
 stones, remain sufficiently to show that Anathoth was formerly a place 
 of much importance, and very strongly fortified. The villagers grow 
 quantities of corn ; and by their industry in tilling the adjacent soil, 
 can earn a scanty maintenance, and keep their children from actual 
 want. From hence, there is a splendid view of all the eastern 
 mountains within the land of Benjamin ; including the north end of 
 the unfathomable Dead Sea, and the deep and winding valley of the 
 river Jordan ; with the long range of Moab hills, an unbroken wall 
 of boundary beyond them. To the westward, rising above some 
 intervening heights, a practised eye can easily discern the top of 
 Tuleil el-Ful, where once stood Gibeah of Saul, the birth-place of 
 
308 
 
 MOUNDS OF ASITES. 
 
 that most unhappy and singularly ill-omened king. The limestone 
 quarried near Anata is of dazzling whiteness, and held in great 
 esteem for building purposes. The whole of Christ’s Church, at 
 Jerusalem, was built of this material ; which, although soft and friable 
 when first removed, soon hardens by exposure to the atmosphere. 
 Stone is conveyed from Anathoth by donkeys, mules, or camels ; each 
 animal carrying as heavy loads as it can bear. The task is truly a 
 laborious one, a constant toiling up and struggling down ; and almost 
 every step is over slippery rocks or small loose stones. Most literally 
 they tread on “ stony ground ; ” but not, as Dr. Stewart observes, 
 that kind to which our Lord refers in His instructive Parable of the 
 Sower; for any trifling injury caused by their presence to the 
 newly sprouting corn, bears no comparison with the needful shelter 
 they afford to rising crops in keeping off the sun rays ; and preserving 
 moisture, which otherwise would speedily evaporate. “ In this, as 
 “ also in the aluminous nature of the soil throughout the whole of 
 “ Palestine, which long retains the rain that falls upon it, we can 
 “ trace the wisdom and goodness of the glorious Creator ; in the 
 “ provision He has made for rendering the inheritance, which lie 
 “ gave in covenant to Abraham and his seed, a fruitful land, 
 “ notwithstanding the fierce heat of the sun, to which it is exposed 
 “ the greater part of the year.” To the northward of Jerusalem 
 are three large artificial mounds, which are generally believed to 
 have been formed by ashes from the ancient Temple sacrifices — 
 “ poured out in a clean place without the camp.” But many 
 travellers ridicule that idea ; and consider that they probably have 
 always served their present purpose, as receptacles, for perhaps two 
 hundred years, of common refuse from the soap manufactories ; and 
 yet it has in several instances been proved, by a careful analysis of 
 different samples of these ashes, taken from the oldest portion of the 
 mounds, that they are chiefly composed of animal substances ; and not 
 
’AIN KARIM. 
 
 309 
 
 of vegetable matter only, as those who doubt their origin have 
 frequently affirmed. 
 
 On reaching the Damascus Gate, and finding we had still a 
 couple of hours to spare, we rode towards the Convent of the 
 Cross, and through a shallow wady, which the Greek monks are 
 now reclaiming from its former barrenness, by planting a variety 
 of fruit trees. This valley brought us to the Plain of Rephaim, 
 at its south-west extremity, and the commencement of a beautiful 
 wady, called “The Vale of Roses” — El Werd, in Arabic — a spot 
 we had for several days so much desired to visit ; that we determined 
 to return another time, with greater leisure to enjoy it thoroughly. 
 The whole glen, for at least a mile in length, is neatly divided into 
 olive-yards, with low stone walls “surrounding each of them ; and 
 every inch of ground between the trees is planted thickly with rose 
 bushes. The blossoms are beginning to burst forth in all their early 
 freshness, and the air is loaded with delicious perfume. These roses 
 are in colour the very brightest shade of pink ; they are small in 
 size, but full of leaves, and of the sweetest fragrance possible. 
 These rose gardens are a profitable source of revenue to their 
 owners ; as a quantity of that purely Oriental perfume, attar of 
 roses, is made yearly at Jerusalem ; and rose water is in great 
 request, for sherbet and confectionery, as well as sprinkling in the 
 churches. The little trees grow singly, like gooseberry bushes ; 
 their bright green foliage contrasting pleasantly with the sombre 
 olive branches, which shade them from the scorching sunbeams. 
 Within another week, most of these lovely flowers will probably 
 be full blown ; but nothing can exceed the delicate beauty of 
 their now opening buds. 
 
 Tuesday , April 3(M. — Rode to ’Ain Karim, an hour and a half 
 in distance to the south-west of Jerusalem. It is a gay and 
 prosperous-looking village, with an ancient fountain in the midst, 
 
310 
 
 ’AIN IIANiYEII. 
 
 and prettily situated on the left bank of the long Wady Beit Ilanina. 
 Here John the Baptist is said to have been born; and a large 
 Franciscan convent, inhabited by Spanish monks alone, has been 
 erected on a kind of platform ; the handsome church belonging to 
 it was built over the supposed house, or rather grotto , of Zacharias 
 and Elizabeth. The mountain scenery around is very bleak and 
 dreary ; but the bottom of the valley, and all along its lower 
 slopes, is filled with splendid olive groves, vineyards, and fig 
 orchards ; occasionally a retired hamlet peeps out among the trees. 
 The path was very rough, but it would be difficult to find a smooth 
 one in Judsea ; and the prospect ever varying, we foimd to-day’s 
 excursion exceedingly agreeable. A mile beyond ’Ain Karim are 
 the patched up ruins of a chapel, built during the Crusades, and 
 known to Roman Catholics as “The Visitation.” Two or three 
 Soeurs cle Charite have made their temporary dwelling there ; because 
 tradition says the site was that of Zacharias’ country residence, 
 where the Virgin Mary “ saluted ” her cousin, St. Elizabeth. The 
 inhabitants of ’Ain Karim are, apparently, in very flourishing cir- 
 cumstances ; and, being industrious tillers of their soil, they earn an 
 ample livelihood by the sale of fruit and vegetables at Jerusalem. 
 The valley became gradually more beautiful and grand ; the hills, 
 as we proceeded farther, were terraced regularly, from their base 
 upwards ; for every spot of ground is cultivated by the thrifty 
 villagers, and turned to good account. If, in truth, this wonderfully 
 fertile district was once the usual thoroughfare between Jerusalem 
 and Gaza, we may surely credit the tradition which points to ’Ain 
 Haniyeh, as the fountain where the Ethiopian eunuch was baptized 
 by St. Philip the Evangelist. A few broken granite columns lie 
 scattered on the rocks, and some ruins also of a Christian church. 
 The remains of a considerable village may likewise be observed, 
 lying deep within the valley, immediately below this fountain ; but 
 
TEKOA. 
 
 311 
 
 they are almost hidden, by the olive trees, from the more frequented 
 path above. Ecclesiastical tradition commonly regards the Wady 
 Beit Hanina as identical with the Valley of Elali (Terebinth), where 
 David slew Goliath ; and, accordingly, conducted by a guide, my 
 husband scrambled down the verdant terraces — a proper staircase 
 for the giant “ Pliili stine of Gath” to tread — while I remained 
 above, in charge of the three horses ; until his safe return, with 
 more than “ five smooth stones out of the brook.” A pretty hamlet 
 nestles near this place ; with a vast extent of corn-fields, orchards, 
 and large vineyards, spreading everywhere around ; the grapes are 
 forming rapidly, and give much promise of an abundant vintage. 
 We returned towards the Holy City through the sweetly scented 
 Vale of Eoses ; and even already, the whole neighbourhood is richly 
 perfumed with their delightful fragrance. This day’s excursion 
 occupied six hours ; the weather was almost too cold, and the wind 
 blew high occasionally. 
 
 Wednesday , May ls£. — By invitation from the English Consul 
 and Mrs. Einn, we accompanied them this morning to Urtas ; and 
 left the city by the Jaffa Gate, soon after seven a.m. We followed 
 the ordinary route to Hebron, until near the village of Beit Jala, 
 when we turned off towards the left. The ruins of Tekoa were 
 visible, to the southward, situated on the broad summit of an 
 elevated ridge, between two very deep and wild ravines. Kemains 
 of a large Greek church may still be seen among the old foundations, 
 with fragments of broken columns, and a baptismal font ; but the 
 most conspicuous object is a ruined tower. During the Crusades, 
 Tekoa was a Christian place — the inhabitants affording valuable 
 assistance to the Franks, at the first siege of Jerusalem. But the 
 chief interest of this ancient town arises from much older recol- 
 lections. From thence, Old Testament history relates, Joab “ fetched 
 . . . a wise woman,” to plead with David, on behalf of wicked 
 
 x 4 
 
312 
 
 urtas. 
 
 Absalom. Tekoa was fortified by Rehoboam, along with Bethlehem 
 and Etam, and subsequently became the early home of Amos — “an 
 herdsman, and a gatherer of wild figs : and the Lord took me as 
 I followed the flock, and the Lord said unto me, Go, prophesy 
 unto my people Israel.” We remarked, as we came nearer 
 Bethlehem, some splendid flocks of sheep and goats, led out to 
 pasture ; and met long files of loaded camels, the most neglected, 
 clumsy animals I ever saw. Groups of very tall, fine-looking 
 peasants, arrayed in flowing garments, of the richest shade of 
 crimson, blue, and black, were the exact facsimiles of those 
 gorgeously painted figures we all so much admire upon glass 
 
 windows of the middle ages, in our beautiful old churches and 
 cathedrals; but which we have been wont to think exaggerated in 
 their vivid colouring, as representing ancient prophets and apostles ; 
 the fashion of whose raiment has, we may well believe, continued 
 for at least three thousand years unchanged. The effect was 
 
 positively startling, as the morning sunlight fell upon these Betli- 
 lehemites ; and when, on our return this evening, the rays of 
 sunset gilded every object with departing glory, the delusion was 
 really perfect ; and we could almost fancy that the brilliant pictures 
 of Michael Angelo Buonarotti were starting up before us, and had 
 actually become “ living souls ! ” The peasantry near Bethlehem, 
 Mrs. Finn informed us, are thriving marvellously at present; their 
 
 lands are very rich, and constantly increase in value ; and they 
 
 carry on a lucrative trade in rosaries, carved stone, and shells. The 
 women wear a loose red jacket, which has an extremely picturesque 
 appearance ; and their now greater wealth enables many of them 
 to exchange their silver ornaments, and adorn themselves witli gold 
 instead. The fruitful gardens of Urtas — successors to the flowery 
 Paradise of King Solomon — arc distant twenty minutes’ walk below 
 the Tools, down the steep rugged side of Wady Etan — Etham. 
 
URTAS. 
 
 313 
 
 For any stranger who desires to see exemplified the natural pro- 
 ductiveness, and wonderful capabilities of the soil of Palestine, when 
 tended by a skilful hand, and irrigated with judicious care, I 
 earnestly advise an early visit to the once desolate valley of Urtas. 
 The bottom of this narrow glen, not more than sixty yards in width, 
 is now a blooming Eden ; stocked to profusion with all kinds of fruit 
 and vegetables, and yielding literally “an hundredfold.” Fourteen 
 or fifteen years ago, this great improvement was commenced ; and 
 the result is cliiefly owing to the enterprising industry of a converted 
 Israelite, Mr. Meshullam, by birth an Englishman, although of Spanish 
 family ; and who has never ceased to take a pardonable pride and 
 interest in cultivating this little portion of the Promised Land. 
 The village of Urtas is a mass of shapeless ruins, among some 
 cavern tombs ; inhabited, however, by a few native Arab fellahin. 
 The limestone hills are broken into craggy summits, high in altitude, 
 and coldly barren ; but wild honeysuckle, and a few other flowers, 
 peep out occasionally from some hidden crevice, and festoon the rocky 
 ledges. After nine years of labour, the Greeks cast longing eyes 
 upon this smiling territory, and began to bargain for its purchase, 
 with the Arab sheikhs to whom the glen belonged. This project 
 was very soon made known to Mr. Finn, who spared no pains in 
 reasoning with the Arabs of the neighbourhood ; and he, at last, 
 succeeded in persuading them to sell to Mrs. Finn, on behalf of the 
 Jerusalem Agricultural Association, the chief part of the valley for 
 £150. This well concerted plan, not only saved Meshullam and his 
 family from sudden poverty ; but also from being cruelly disappointed 
 m their cherished scheme, of giving remunerative employment to 
 their Jewish brethren. For some time previously, Mrs. Finn had 
 ardently desired to establish a Hebrew farm at Urtas; and this 
 critical event afforded her an excellent opportunity of success. 
 Early one summer’s morning, the Arabs, ten in number, assembled 
 
314 
 
 URTAS. 
 
 at the British Consulate, to execute the sale. The drawing out of 
 papers is comparatively of little consequence ; deeds may be duly 
 signed, and yet, if an Arab chooses afterwards to repent of the 
 transaction, he has, by law, the power of annulling it, by bringing 
 back the money in his hand. He must, therefore, be compelled to 
 make a verbal declaration before witnesses — an engagement which 
 is never broken, under any possible circumstances. Mrs. Finn came 
 forward, and stood amidst the group of fierce, wild-looking men, 
 while she demanded of Sheikh Saph, as he was called, whether he 
 agreed to sell ; he said, “ I agree to sell, 0 my lady ! do you 
 agree to buy P ” and Mrs. Finn replied, “ I buy, 0 Sheikh ! ” And 
 then the purchase deed was signed and sealed, and the stipulated 
 sum, in sovereigns, was counted slowly into the Sheikh’s hand. 
 A rather numerous party were present on the occasion, both of 
 Jews and Christians. But the affair was not quite over yet ; about 
 a hundred coins, of very trilling value, and a few trumpery European 
 trinkets, were tied up in a handkerchief, and thrown by Mrs. Finn 
 upon the floor ; when a general scramble immediately ensued. This 
 extraordinary method of concluding any sale, is a necessary precaution, 
 in dealing with the Arab tribes ; for having sold their property for 
 a counted and an uncounted sum, they never can, against his will, 
 oblige the purchaser to yield it up in future. 
 
 We spent an interesting day with Mr. Meshullam and his kind 
 hearted, simple mannered family ; finding every moment something 
 new and pleasant to admire. In spite of difficulties and annoyance that 
 would inevitably have crushed the spirit of a less steadily persevering 
 and energetic mind, this worthy son of Abraham has firmly kept his 
 ground ; his corn-fields arc luxuriant as all other kinds of culture, 
 and prove what might be done for Palestine, were indolence and 
 cringing fear once banished, and for ever, from this “goodly land.” 
 The neighbouring Bedouin hold Meshullam’s character in very great 
 
URTAS. 
 
 315 
 
 respect, and come to him continually for assistance and advice ; having 
 such entire confidence in his integrity, that they often bring large 
 sums of money, or the jewels of their wives, to place them under his 
 safe keeping in times of peril or uncertainty ; although they are aware 
 his dwelling is secured by neither locks nor bars. His hospitality is 
 said to be unbounded ; not a single creature being suffered to depart 
 without at least a cup of coffee, which is always ready for presenting 
 at a moment’s notice. I can answer personally, as regards the 
 exceedingly good breakfast provided for our party at his house ; and 
 can justly praise the excellence of an early dinner also, consisting 
 principally of macaroni dressed in gravy, and ground corn and meat 
 rolled up in vine leaves ; the latter is a favourite Arab dish, and may 
 not from my description appear particularly tempting ; let those who 
 doubt its merit dine quietly some day at Urtas. Two daughters of 
 our host prepared the feast with their own hands, attending carefully 
 upon their guests, as other Jewish maidens always did in bygone 
 days; their mother, an Italian, was confined by illness to her room. 
 While dinner was making ready, we walked to see the pretty bubbling 
 spring, whose pure and abundant waters carry luxurious vegetation 
 as they flow. It was perhaps the very water which King David 
 longed to taste ; and the vicinity of Urtas to Bethlehem may render 
 the idea probable. This is the most romantic portion of the glen ; 
 the fountain issues from a rocky chasm, and may be turned in sparkling 
 rills wherever irrigation is most needed. Vineyards are planted upon 
 the ancient terraces ; and Meshullam makes a small quantity of wine, 
 but merely for his own consumption ; he hopes eventually to have 
 an oil press here, that the olives gathered yearly may be made a source 
 of ample profit. We saw enormous specimens of the dried ears of 
 Indian corn ; and some beautiful rice wheat, which grows in perfect 
 regularity and whiteness, upon a cone the size of a man’s finger. 
 Kitchen vegetables thrive in these gardens to a degree which would 
 
316 
 
 URTAS. 
 
 appear incredible to any but an actual eye witness ; beans that were 
 sown in February, have grown nearly three feet high, with eight or 
 nine stems to each root, and are loaded heavily with pods ; and peas, in 
 even greater quantity, are never tied on sticks, but left to trail upon 
 the ground. The mulberry trees have grown to a prodigious size ; 
 and peach trees, planted only three years ago, are so plentifully laden 
 with their fruit, that when the peaches have attained their fullest 
 growth, the leaves will be entirely concealed. Everything, moreover, 
 is of the very best kind ; from the care Meshullam takes to procure 
 good seeds and plants from other countries. Vines will bear grapes 
 the first year they are planted; although the rocky terraces where 
 they grow, appeared but barren limestone a few months before. Figs 
 are especially abundant, and will be ripe in June. Not only does the 
 fountain stream of Urtas flow copiously down the valley, but water is 
 conducted to the fields and gardens from the Fools of Solomon, and 
 falls into the ravine by a picturesque cascade. Great heat, sufficiency 
 of water, and a virgin soil combined, are believed to be the cause by 
 which alone we can account for the possibility of this wonderful success 
 in agriculture. The air is never sultry, we were told, even in the 
 hottest months of summer; the hum of mountain bees, and the scent 
 of many pretty flowers, mingle with the soft murmur of the running 
 brook. The cuckoo’s gentle note is heard in early spring, and hundreds 
 of little goldfinches trill merrily from tree to tree, with “ no thought 
 for the morrow.” The Arabs are aware how much it is their interest 
 to protect Meshullam and his family ; for their lands, which had so 
 long lain fallow, formerly gave next to nothing; but now each year 
 they yield successive crops in rich abundance ; and, not unfrequently, 
 half the produce is allotted to their share, as hereditary owners of the 
 soil. Lady Dufferin, Mr. Cyril Graham, Mr. James Graham, and Major 
 Cowell, Prince Alfred’s tutor, have each become proprietors of a plot 
 of ground at Urtas. Upon that portion of the valley under Mrs. Finn’s 
 
EMMAUS. 
 
 317 
 
 especial management, as trustee for Jewish converts, a most interesting 
 and valuable discovery has very recently been made ; of which we heard 
 the English Consul read a full description at a meeting of the Literary 
 Society at Jerusalem. The agriculturists were in pressing need of a 
 substantial water cistern ; but to make a large and good one would 
 require considerable outlay. When lo ! the labourers came suddenly 
 upon a reservoir of Eoman workmanship, in excellent preservation, 
 lined throughout with marble, and which can easily be made available 
 for all the purposes required. Adjoining this large reservoir, is another 
 tank of smaller size, cemented ; and the place from whence the water 
 flowed into these ancient baths, for such undoubtedly they must have 
 been, was constructed in a similar way to that of Eoman times at 
 Antinoe, in Egypt. Some precious relic of antiquity is found here 
 nearly every day ; we saw several curious specimens of glass, ribbed 
 pottery, part of a plain white marble cornice, the shaft of a Corinthian 
 column, and the pedestals and capitals of many others, very finely 
 sculptured ; two triangular pieces of the black bituminous stone which 
 comes from the Dead Sea, probably forming part of a paved road ; 
 slabs of polished marble — white, and grey and white; workmen’s 
 tools ; Cufic and Hebrew coins ; and tiny bits of glass mosaic, several 
 of them gilt. These Eoman baths were truly in no mean repute. 
 Mrs. Finn most kindly gave us a few souvenirs of “ Emmaus ; ” a 
 site which hitherto was never ascertained, but which is now supposed 
 to be at Urtas. Each requirement of the Gospel narrative, so beautifully 
 recorded by St. Luke, may here be answered to the very letter ; 
 the name Emmaus signifies “hot baths,” being the Greek form of 
 Hammam in Arabic, and of the Hebrew Hamath. These remains 
 were doubtless buried by a gradual accumulation of the soil, brought 
 down the valley with the winter torrents ; and not far distant is a 
 low projecting cliff, called by the Bedouin V Promontory of the Baths ; ” 
 and an ancient building near it, which until very lately was unknown 
 
318 
 
 URTAS. 
 
 to Europeans, they call “ The Baths of Solomon.” At “ threescore 
 furlongs” from Jerusalem, no other baths than these have yet been 
 found. In former days, the neighbouring hills were covered with fine 
 forests ; old roots of oak trees, close together and of prodigious size, 
 are cleared away continually at Urtas. “ The guest chamber ” in 
 Mcshullam’s clean and comfortable house, opens wide upon a kind of 
 balcony, from whence there is a lovely view both up and down the 
 glen ; and we enjoyed the cool and balmy air of evening, without the 
 dread of troublesome mosquitoes, a plague almost unknown at Urtas. 
 We purchased from some Arab fellahin , two pipes of common reeds, 
 and one of eagle’s pinions ; such as they daily use themselves, and 
 which are probably like those of David and the “ shepherds abiding in 
 the field.” At this delightful farm, there are daily instances of 
 “ watering with the foot,” a practice constantly observed along the 
 Valley of the Nile. Besident labourers are sadly wanted here ; but 
 there are not sufficient funds for building a few cottages. More tools 
 and wheelbarrows would be acceptable ; and Mrs. Finn is anxious to 
 establish a small dairy, and in a little time would like to have a wine 
 press ; but money must be raised before these longings can be realised. 
 There is a blessing promised to the “sojourner” among the Chosen 
 People, even when the restored and pardoned seed of Abraham shall 
 again possess this “ goodly land ” of their inheritance, which should 
 never be forgotten by true friends of Israel. How gladly would I 
 “ sit beneath the shadow ” of my “ fig tree ” in this once favoured 
 spot, when the now scattered sons and daughters of Jacob shall return, 
 “ like doves to their windows,” and “ with songs and everlasting joy 
 upon their heads !” As far as possible to accomplish this desire of 
 possessing land in Palestine, my husband has agreed to purchase a 
 small orchard for £100, the annual expense of culture to be paid in 
 produce ; the ground selected is the property of Mr. Meshullam, and 
 is already stocked with fruit trees. We returned towards Jerusalem 
 
HOSPITAL OP ST. JOHN. 
 
 319 
 
 when the sun was fast declining ; the first part of our ride was by 
 the pleasant shady causeway upon the aqueduct of King Solomon ; and 
 if we may believe that Urtas and Emmaus are identical, this very road 
 was hallowed by the footsteps of our risen Lord, on the evening after 
 His resurrection ; when He overtook the two disciples, and asked 
 them why they were so sad. The huge flat slabs of slippery rock, 
 which make these hilly paths so perilous for horses’ feet, were not 
 the common features in the landscape then; some future day each 
 “ stumbling block ” shall disappear, and the “ rough places ” be made 
 “ plain ” once more. 
 
 Thursday , May 2nd . — From the lower windows in the 
 Mediterranean hotel, we can look into an open grassy space, one 
 side of which is bounded by part of an old stone wall, a remnant 
 of the Hospital of St. John ; but the most important vestige now 
 remaining of that once splendid edifice, is a noble Gothic gateway 
 of peculiar construction ; embellished with carved mouldings, marble 
 columns, and richly sculptured capitals. It is situated in a narrow 
 street, and very near the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The 
 exterior arch is pointed ; while the inner one, that of the deeply 
 receding gate itself, is round and Norman. The piece of ground 
 beyond appears to be a common receptacle for dead animals and 
 eveiy kind of filth and rubbish ; we therefore could not venture 
 to examine more than the facade of this sadly desecrated relic of 
 ancient chivalry. The building was originally designed to serve 
 the double purpose of a fortress and an ecclesiastical retreat. It 
 was founded during the eleventh century by some merchants from 
 Amalfi, as a place of rest and safety for Christian pilgrims to 
 Jerusalem. The wealth and influence of the Knights Hospitallers 
 
 rapidly increased, until the sudden overthrow of the Latin kingdom 
 two hundred years afterwards. These valiant warriors established 
 themselves at Pdiodes ; when St. Jean d’Acre, the last remaining 
 
320 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 stronghold of the Franks, had fallen. The massive fortifications 
 they erected round the island, are still the admiration of European 
 travellers ; and before the recent earthquake had demolished the fine 
 old church and magnificent palace of the Grand Master, we saw 
 that splendid street lined with the “ priories ” of the brave Knights 
 of Rhodes, and decorated with their escutcheons. 
 
 This morning, in the paved court before the Church of the Holy 
 Sepulchre, we witnessed an annual ceremony which attracts a mul- 
 titude of spectators — the Greek Patriarch’s representative washing 
 the feet of twelve bishops, all of whom were gorgeously robed in 
 scarlet silk and gold brocade. The scene was altogether somewhat 
 ludicrous, and certainly was not devotional. The principal per- 
 formers were stationed upon a temporary stage or platform, facing 
 the grand portal. The Archbishop wore a magnificent jewelled 
 crown ; he was of course an aged man, and looked an exceedingly 
 important personage. He read, or rather chaunted, in the modern 
 Greek language, that portion of the thirteenth chapter of St. John’s 
 Gospel, which describes the act of Jesus when He washed “the 
 disciples’ feet,” and so touchingly relates each circumstance of that 
 most thrilling narrative ; the words of the Apostle Peter were 
 chaunted by the senior Bishop in response. When the chaunting 
 of these beautiful verses was at an end, a golden ewer and bason 
 were brought forward by an attendant priest, with an ample supply 
 of linen cloths and towels ; lighted candles meanwhile waving to 
 and fro in the broad glare of sunlight. The old Archbishop 
 having “ laid aside ” his splendid robe of gold embroidered crimson 
 velvet, “ he took a towel and girded himself,” covering his portly 
 shoulders with two large white cloths. The crowd within the 
 square was fearfully dense ; but we accompanied the American 
 Consul and Mrs. Page, and their cawass for a long time vainly did 
 his utmost to clear a standing place for us ; eventually we were 
 
JERUSALEM. 
 
 321 
 
 glad to mount upon a high stone bench, where we could view the 
 ceremonial without the risk of being suffocated. The whole process, 
 from beginning to end, was not a very tedious affair ; for the 
 washing was no more than sprinkling , and the wiping seemed to be 
 a mere pretence. I have not ascertained that the assembled 
 
 pilgrims are wont to dip their handkerchiefs into the golden 
 bason, and preserve them ever afterwards as sacred relics ; or that 
 the residue of precious liquid which has been used for such a 
 pious purpose, may be carried off in bottles, and given as medicine 
 to the sick ; but it is said the Latins formerly allowed this super- 
 stitious and revolting practice ; when, on the evening of Holy 
 Thursday, their Patriarch had washed the feet of twelve most 
 
 miserable and filthy beggars ! The Greeks are more refined on 
 
 this occasion ; for with them twelve mitred bishops take the place 
 of poor and dirty outcasts, and fragrant rose-water is substituted 
 for the dew of heaven ! Before the multitude dispersed, the 
 latter verses of the thirteenth chapter of St. John’s Gospel were 
 
 chaunted by the Archbishop, who had again put on his gorgeous 
 
 robes ; but we were anxious to depart, and did not wait for the 
 conclusion. The flat roof, or gallery of the fagade, was thronged 
 with people of both sexes ; who, with scarcely room to stand, had 
 gone there at a very early hour. The Armenians have a similar 
 celebration during some part of this day ; but the interior of their 
 splendid church was all we really wished to see. Their convent 
 is considered to be the largest and most comfortable ecclesiastical 
 establishment within the Holy City, and is situated upon the Hill 
 of Zion. The patriarchal palace appears to be a handsome modern 
 residence ; there is also a seminary or college for the education of 
 the clergy ; and an excellent printing press, the first that was ever 
 introduced into Jerusalem. The convent was originally founded 
 during the eleventh century by the Georgians, who were the 
 
 Y 
 
322 
 
 THE JEWS’ WAILING PLACE. 
 
 earliest Christians of the Greek ritual to settle in this country. As 
 we left the church by its low door of entrance, which is strongly 
 fortified against a sudden outbreak of the Moslem population, our 
 hands were sprinkled plentifully with rose-water, poured from a 
 small silver flask, by the priest who acted as our cicerone. 
 
 The Protestant cemetery lies near the Zion Gate, about a 
 hundred feet above the “ lower pool ” of Gihon ; it is a neatly 
 kept and quietly retired spot, enclosed within a high stone wall. 
 Near to a fine old olive tree, is the last earthly resting-place of 
 the late Anglican Bishop of Jerusalem ; the monument, raised 
 by subscription, over his remains, evinces much good taste in the 
 unpretending simplicity of its design, and is constructed of a hard 
 red stone peculiar to this neighbourhood, without any other orna- 
 ment than the episcopal mitre plainly carved upon the top. Close by, 
 are the tombs of Revd. Mr. Nicholayson and Dr. Edward Macgowan ; 
 the excellent Miss Cooper, too, lies buried here ; and many a little 
 mound bears evidence how often Europeans, who make their home 
 in Palestine, have laid their infant children in these lowly graves. 
 
 Friday , May 3rd . — Accompanied by Mr. Bergheim, a banker at 
 Jerusalem, a Christian Israelite, and who is held in great esteem 
 by all classes of society, my husband rode betimes to Urtas, to 
 make arrangements with Meshullam for the transfer of our piece 
 of ground. He returned with the glad tidings that everything 
 was settled to the satisfaction of all parties, and that the papers 
 will be signed and sealed to-morrow morning at the British 
 Consulate. This afternoon, we walked through the Mogrcbin (Western 
 African) quarter of the city, on our way to the Jews’ Wailing 
 Place. A large concourse, both of men and women, were assem- 
 bled there ; most of them had Hebrew psalters in their hands, 
 from which they chaunted the appropriate verses with astonishing 
 rapidity, although in sad and deprecating tones ; some of them 
 
JERUSALEM. 
 
 323 
 
 rocked their bodies to ard fro, and even bitter tears occasionally 
 streamed down their careworn cheeks ; others sat quietly upon the 
 ground, and prayed, or read the Scriptures to themselves. On every 
 Friday at a certain hour, for many centuries, have the oppressed 
 degraded Israelites been scornfully permitted to approach the hal- 
 lowed precincts of their fathers’ sanctuary, a section of the old 
 foundation wall ; and for this melancholy privilege of course they are 
 obliged to pay some money to the Turkish Government. Jews from 
 all nations of the earth may there be seen, lamenting the desolation 
 and dishonour of their once holy Temple, kissing the enormous 
 bevelled stones, and muttering through the crevices, because they 
 still imagine that Jehovah’s ear will thence more fully open to 
 their prayers. In doleful accents they repeat the royal Psalmist’s 
 words : — “0 God, the heathen are come into Thine inheritance ; 
 Thy holy temple have they defiled; they have laid Jerusalem on 
 heaps. ... We are become a reproach to our neighbours, a 
 scorn and derision to them that are round about us. How 
 long, Lord? Wilt Thou be angry for ever? shall Thy jealousy 
 burn like fire P ” As we retraced our steps along the tortuous 
 narrow lanes which lead towards the Wailing Place, we met a 
 poor blind man ; he was quite alone, and groping with a stick 
 to join his Jewish brethren. Alas ! the sons of Abraham bewail 
 the fallen glory of their race, and pray for their Messiah to 
 come ; they do not weep and “ mourn ” for “ Him whom they 
 have pierced ! ” 
 
 The sun was fiercely hot ; but we wished, as we were in the 
 neighbourhood, to see a very interesting discovery made by Dr. 
 Robinson. Projecting from the west wall of the Temple area are 
 three stupendous courses of cyclopean stones, forming the segment 
 of an arch which must originally have spanned the Tyropason valley. 
 At any rate, this massive remnant is coeval with whatever may be 
 
324 
 
 THE IIOLY FIRE. 
 
 still remaining of the ancient structure ; and there can be little doubt 
 that this is really the “ ascent ” by which King Solomon went up 
 from his palace on the Hill of Zion to the Temple Mount ; and we 
 are told, that when the Queen of Sheba saw it, “ there was no more 
 spirit in her.” It is the just remark of Dr. Bonar, “ how much the 
 size of individual stones adds to the greatness of the whole. It is 
 hardly possible for a brick building to be truly great or impressive.” 
 Josephus also mentions that a bridge connected the Temple upon 
 Moriah with the Xystus on Mount Zion ; the space between them 
 being so short, that Titus, standing on the former, held a parley 
 with the Jews upon the other side of the ravine, the depth of which 
 was infinitely greater then, than at the present day. 
 
 From the French army of occupation now in Northern Syria, a 
 great number of officers have come into Jerusalem, attracted by the 
 Greek miracle of the Holy Fire to-morrow ; and whole families of 
 the pilgrims are carrying their beds and eatables into the church ; 
 where they will be crowded close together, in every imaginable 
 corner, or on shelves and platforms, rather than not secure good 
 places for the coming “ spectacle .” After evening service, the doors 
 will be closed for the night, and nobody allowed to cross the threshold 
 until daybreak. 
 
 Saturday , May 4th . — A Franciscan monk, belonging to the Convent 
 of St. Salvador, having provided us with places in the Latin gallery 
 of the rotunda, we did not go into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre 
 until noon to-day. The crowd appeared to be tremendous, although 
 we hear the actual assembly of Greek pilgrims is comparatively 
 small, being only about 3,000 ; instead of 15,000, the average number 
 in more peaceful times. The court of the Basilica was lined with 
 Turkish troops ; the surrounding terraces and housetops were alive 
 with groups of women, completely shrouded in white sheets, and 
 heedless of the scorching sunbeams. With difficulty we struggled 
 
T1IE HOLY FIRE. 
 
 325 
 
 up a tottering wooden staircase to our stations ; and even there, we 
 scarcely could find room to stand ; but we had nobody in front of 
 us, and were fortunate in being placed most advantageously for seeing 
 all that passed below. The only danger we incurred was from the 
 dreadful pressure of the crowd behind ; the railings of the gallery 
 seemed very rickety and insecure. A passage was formed by Turkish 
 soldiers with their bayonets fixed, all round the area of the rotunda, 
 dividing the vast pilgrim multitude into an outer and an inner circle. 
 It was a strange wild scene of tumult and uproarious confusion ! 
 In the centre stood the marble chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, spoiled 
 with its tawdry decorations. The pilgrims, frenzied with excitement, 
 clapped their hands, and mounted on each others’ shoulders, ending 
 the frolic by a somersault ; they ran, and jumped, and played at 
 leapfrog ; uttering loud cries, and sometimes chaunting dismally in 
 chorus. The noise and heat were almost inconceivable ; but the 
 Turks behaved with admirable patience and discretion. We can 
 hardly blame Mahommedans for believing these disgraceful rites and 
 impious impostures to be an essential part of Christianity ; they see the 
 pomp and splendour which accompanies their celebration, and shrink 
 with an instinctive horror from those who would proclaim the Gospel 
 truth ; while they cordially, and not unnaturally, despise a system 
 which can give support to such idolatry and gross deceit. The wise 
 Surreya Pacha insists upon his troops remaining in the church 
 during the whole of this day’s ceremony ; and thus the overwrought 
 enthusiasm of the more excited pilgrims may be damped in some 
 degree, and actual bloodshed or even violent quarrelling prevented. 
 Numbers augmented every moment, more and more densely were the 
 pilgrims packed. Some savage looking men had long and streaming 
 hair ; while others, closely shaven, had lost their head gear in the fray. 
 A few performed a frantic kind of dance, accompanied by hideous 
 yells ; like maniacs, they tossed their arms into the air ; and then 
 
326 
 
 THE HOLY FIRE. 
 
 they separated into little groups or circles, and swung their heads 
 and arms about, to the sound of a lugubrious cry ; their voices 
 gradually becoming louder, and their movements increasing in rapidity 
 until they reached the highest pitch of madness ; they then endeavoured 
 to run pell mell round the rotunda, careless of all obstructions in the 
 way. Occasionally there was a sudden lull, but only to take breath, 
 and recommence with greater frenzy than before. The soldiers seemed 
 to know exactly when to interfere, and put a stop to any apprehended 
 mischief. At three o’clock the scene began to change ; the excited 
 mob was driven back once more ; and space was made for a procession 
 formed of the Greek Archbishop and his clergy. They walked with 
 slow and measured pace three times around the Holy Sepulchre, 
 chaunting all the while a very beautiful and solemn litany; and 
 carried splendid silk and gold-embroidered banners. The bishops 
 were arrayed in gorgeous robes of the richest white and gold brocaded 
 silk. In his left hand, the venerable Archbishop held a golden-headed 
 crozier, and raised his right hand in the attitude of benediction. At 
 last, one of the bishops entered quite alone within the sacred shrine. 
 On each side of the Sepulchre there is an oval aperture, from whence 
 the “ Heaven descended ” flame is wont to issue ; and the first who 
 lights his taper must pay 50,000 piastres for that privilege ! There 
 are many pilgrims who will keep their hands fast clenched for hours 
 in these two holes, in spite of every effort to displace them. And 
 now the critical moment had indeed arrived ; a waving forest of 
 wax candles, tapers, and unlighted torches started, as if by sudden 
 magic, from below. Loud cries continually were raised, and the 
 words we had so often heard to-day, were now repeated in a still 
 more energetic tone — “This is the house of God! this is the tomb 
 of the Saviour ! This is the day on which He rose from the dead ! 
 Let us raise up our hearts unto new life.” “ Christ the Son of God 
 died for us! Christ the Son of God rose for us! God preserve the 
 
PROFESSOR LEVISOIIN. 
 
 327 
 
 Sultan ! Christ the Son of Mary died for us ! Life was dead, was 
 buried in the grave — now is new life come to us!” There was a 
 momentary pause of eager expectation, an almost breathless and 
 unearthly silence, succeeded by a deafening shout ; a silvery toned 
 bell had rung — and instantly the “holy fire” burst forth, just where 
 it was expected to appear ! The rush towards the apertures was 
 now beyond imagination frightful ! Bare arms were seen stretched 
 out by thousands, to catch a share of the supposed miraculously 
 kindled fire ; candles let down from the galleries by cords, were 
 lighted and drawn up again; and many a torch or candle, that at 
 first blazed brightly and with vigour, was soon extinguished by an 
 overwhelming force of others, sometimes whole bundles of thin tapers 
 at a time, which those who carried them were endeavouring to light 
 from its effulgence. These candles are invariably kept as precious 
 relics, to burn by the deathbed of their owners ; and whenever it is 
 possible, they are safely carried home still burning, to communicate 
 their flame to all the lamps and candles in ordinary use — ad infinitum. 
 The stifling smoke and dust became extremely disagreeable; and we 
 left the church before the Syrian, Coptic, Abyssinian, and Armenian 
 priesthood, headed by their respective bishops, walked in procession 
 round the Holy Sepulchre. The Latin clergy have ceased to take a 
 part in this disgraceful cheat ; which well educated Greeks are ready 
 to confess is nothing more than a delusion, encouraged to support 
 their numerous convents by the annual pilgrim fees at Easter. 
 
 Later in the day I went with Mr. and Mrs. Page to call 
 upon Professor Levisohn, who had kindly invited us to visit him 
 at his apartments near the Mosque of Omar. By birth a Russian, 
 he is sent here by his Government for the purpose of collecting 
 manuscripts, and investigating the literary remains of Syria ; early 
 copies of the Gospels and Epistles have by this means been 
 brought to light, from monasteries where they long lay unregarded. 
 
328 
 
 PROFESSOR LEVISOHN. 
 
 A large subscription, raised by private enterprise in Russia, has 
 persuaded the Samaritans to part with some valuable manuscript 
 copies of the Pentateuch ; one of which appears to be of such 
 remote antiquity, that its age and history are alike unknown ; 
 but from an inscription at the beginning, which mentions that 
 this book had “stood the test of fire to prove its authenticity,” 
 it is supposed to have been written prior to the time of Zerub- 
 babbel. One of the pages is much soiled, and the writing sadly 
 injured by the kisses and dirty fingers of enthusiastic devotees. 
 A correct facsimile has been made of this ancient manuscript ; 
 and Professor Levisohn is now employed in multiplying it by 
 lithography into five hundred copies, to be distributed among the 
 principal public libraries of Europe. With extreme good-nature, 
 he took the trouble of showing us his printing-press, and presented 
 Mrs. Page and myself with his portrait, a lithographic copy of the 
 first leaf from the curious old Pentateuch, and a few verses composed 
 by Amran, the Samaritan High Priest, who came here from Nablus 
 to converse with Professor Levisohn, and took this mode of thanking 
 the Russian doctor for his courteous hospitality. Among many 
 other precious treasures was an antique seal, of which I gladly 
 accepted an impression ; it is an heirloom in the family of Professor 
 Levisohn, who is descended from the tribe of Levi : an inscription 
 testifies to that effect in Hebrew characters. We also saw two 
 copper shekels of the olden Jewish times; but this truly excellent 
 and clever man has been for some years past a zealous convert to 
 the Christian faith. He has of late devoted all his energy and 
 talent to acquiring a thorough knowledge of Samaritan literature ; 
 and with such complete success, that he can read the ancient 
 manuscripts with perfect ease and lluency ; and pointed out to us 
 discoveries lie had made of certain differences between the Hebrew 
 and Samaritan versions of the books of Moses; referring principally 
 
JERUSALEM. 
 
 329 
 
 to some omissions in the Hebrew copies of the Mosaic Law, of 
 prophecies which foretold, in clearest and most emphatic words, the 
 Saviour that should come into the world. One of these momentous 
 passages occurs immediately after the delivery of the law upon 
 Mount Sinai ; but we must hope that Professor Levisohn will 
 ultimately publish his own commentary upon this all-important 
 subject. He declares his firm conviction that, in reality, the 
 Samaritans are nothing more than Hebrews of the tribe of Ephraim ; 
 and agrees with them in considering Mount Gerizim as the place 
 where Abraham was commanded to offer up his son Isaac for “ a 
 “ burnt-offering,” founding his belief upon the name — “ Moreh.” 
 He also says their language is precisely similar to the Hebrew, 
 although the written characters are very different; the Samaritan 
 letters being formed upon Phoenician models, while the Hebrew 
 is a modification of Chaldaean writing, to which the Palmyrene 
 
 bears great resemblance. The Maccabean princes, desiring to restore 
 the Jewish nation to its former glory, caused their own coinage 
 to be inscribed with the more ancient characters. Nor has Professor 
 Levisohn been left to work entirely by himself; but is ably assisted 
 in his useful labour by a German, M. Klauss, a Christian Israelite, 
 like his companion, and with kindred earnestness in the good 
 
 cause of truth. A somovar, which resembles a comfortable old 
 English tea-urn, was already filled with most delicious Eussian 
 tea, and stood invitingly upon a little table ; a cup of tea was 
 
 very pleasant after all the hot excitement of the “ holy fire.” Our 
 
 treaty for a piece of ground at Urtas has come suddenly to an 
 end, owing to Meshullam’s having changed his mind since yesterday. 
 This contretemps is much to be lamented; but we shall try to find 
 another pretty spot in Palestine, which one day we may call our 
 own. The late Hr. Macgowan, whose death was universally deplored 
 by everybody who had the privilege of knowing him, bequeathed to 
 
330 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 his widow a large and valuable library, which that lady very 
 generously presented to the Jewish mission before she left Jerusalem. 
 The gift was particularly acceptable : a good book may be 
 
 considered a vara avis in a foreign land, especially in countries 
 under Moslem rule. 
 
 Sunday , May bth . — Every French officer now staying at Jerusalem 
 repaired this morning to the Holy Sepulchre, and laid his sword 
 upon the sacred shrine ; the Latin Patriarch then blessed the 
 weapon with all due solemnity, and returned it to the owner. 
 
 At Christ’s Church, Mr. Bailey preached from those consolatory 
 and suggestive words : — “ And, behold, angels came and ministered 
 unto Him.” The Holy Sacrament was afterwards administered, 
 and before the wooden railings of that altar-table were assembled 
 Christian worshippers of many different nations — English and 
 Americans, Germans, Israelites, and Arabs — foreshadowing, as I have 
 heard remarked, “ the undivided communion of the Zion above.” 
 The general service was read by Mr. Hefter in the English tongue ; 
 but when the bread and wine were offered, each person was 
 addressed in Ins or her own language. 
 
 Completely unmindful of the Sabbath Day, hundreds and 
 hundreds of the pilgrim host have left the Holy City, or are busily 
 preparing to depart. We must not judge these poor deluded 
 creatures harshly ; in one respect, at least, we ought to imitate 
 their example, and act in strict accordance with our light and 
 knowledge, by which alone we shall hereafter stand or fall. “ But 
 woe to that man by whom the offence cometh ; ” and we are 
 told a variety of strange stories not very creditable to the Greek 
 clergy — the “ hireling ” shepherds, “ whose own the sheep are not.” 
 It is said that certain members of the Church who are unable, or 
 perhaps unwilling, to make this Easter pilgrimage in person, are 
 graciously allowed to send their names, accomp;uiicd by a handsome 
 
bIreii. 
 
 331 
 
 sum of money, to the Patriarch ; who puts the tempting douceur 
 into his own pocket, and speaks openly of the practice as if it 
 were a matter of undisputed right! Moreover, we are informed 
 that very large collections are made among the pilgrims, under 
 cover of priestly hospitality; a good dinner or supper is provided, 
 with a sufficient quantity of arrack to open wide the seldom “full 
 to overflowing ” purses of the luckless and superstitious fanatics. 
 But the glory of these annual gatherings is happily on the wane ; 
 the attention of mankind appears to be directed into less unhealthy 
 channels ; and never shall we hear again of 44,000 pilgrims, or even 
 occasionally a still greater number, being assembled, as if with one 
 accord, to desecrate each sacred spot around Jerusalem. The streets 
 are crowded everywhere with passengers, and by to-morrow evening 
 all strangers will most probably have taken their departure. 
 
 Monday , May 6th . — At an early hour this morning my husband 
 saw the ceremony of investing a French Viscount with the Order of 
 Knighthood of the Holy Sepulchre. The installation took place in 
 the little Chapel of the Angel, within the sacred shrine. The 
 sword and one spur of Godfrey de Bouillon — modern facsimiles 
 only — were fastened upon the newly-made knight ; and a short 
 address was spoken to him in Latin, and the creed repeated, while 
 he knelt before the reputed Sepulchre of our Lord. This investiture 
 has now become an empty compliment, and even may be purchased 
 at a stated price ; the dignity is merely nominal, and not a single 
 vow or special duty is required, nor any kind of previous discipline 
 or fasting. 
 
 Leaving Jerusalem by the Jaffa Gate about eleven a.m., in little 
 more than four hours afterwards we reached the site of Bethel. 
 The day was cool and pleasant, and we halted half an hour at 
 Birch, which is situated upon a rocky ridge, and may be seen a 
 long way off on either side. This place was probably the Scripture 
 
332 
 
 ROCK OF RIMMON. 
 
 Beer, or Beeroth, a city of the Gibeonites, allotted to the tribe of 
 Benjamin ; and tradition tells us it was there, that Joseph and Mary 
 sought in vain for the Child Jesus “ among their kinsfolk and 
 acquaintance ; ” when, returning to Jerusalem, “ they found him in 
 the temple, sitting in the midst of the doctors.” It is true the 
 actual distance coincides with an ordinary “ first day’s journey” in 
 the East ; but a Jewish caravan would hardly then have ventured 
 through the hostile district of Samaria ; especially as the usual 
 custom of the Galikeans, in ascending to the appointed “ feasts,” 
 was to travel by a safer route along the east side of the Jordan. 
 There are several vestiges of antiquity still remaining among the 
 wretched modern dwellings. We passed a broken column, with an 
 inscription much defaced upon it, and which we thought must be a 
 Boman milestone ; a dilapidated but picturesque old khan ; a very 
 ancient cistern, full of water, and in constant use ; hewn stones ; 
 foundation walls ; and the ruins of a large Christian church erected 
 by the Knights Templars. We saw a few small villages in this 
 neighbourhood, inhabited by native Arab fellahin , belonging to the 
 Greek community ; but in general, this stony region is desolate and 
 unattractive, excepting for the numerous Scriptural localities it 
 undoubtedly contains ; although the different theories regarding them 
 are often very vague and inconclusive. Our last view of the 
 Holy City was from a projecting spur of Scopus ; and who can 
 ever leave Jerusalem without a feeling of sincere regret! “They 
 shall prosper that love thee. . . . Peace be within thy 
 
 walls. . . . Because of the house of the Lord our God I 
 
 will seek thy good.” 
 
 From Bireh we descended into a deep valley, and entered within 
 the mountain territory of Ephraim; north-east, a bare white lime- 
 stone cliff was pointed out — it was the “Bock of Binunon.” Our 
 attention soon became arrested by a low and very curious cavern 
 
BETHEL. 
 
 333 
 
 on the left, supported by three square columns, hewn from the 
 living rock ; it probably was once a tomb, like many other caves 
 near Bethel. A m i serable remnant of that frontier town of Israel, 
 “ called Luz at the first,” is all that now appears ; some shapeless 
 heaps of stone — that look as if they never had formed buildings 
 — fragments of walls, and old substructions, are spread over the 
 extremity of a shelving ridge, to the extent of four or five acres, 
 just where two valleys meet. The site is elevated in itself, but is 
 surrounded on all sides, except towards the south, by higher ground. 
 A modern village, built up of the materials at hand, has risen from 
 amidst this desolation ; and a few fig and apple trees, and some 
 fields of grain, are cultivated by the poor Arabs who reside here. 
 Bethel has “ come to nought ! ” and yet, upon a mountain to the 
 east of Bethel, and to the west of Hai, the faithful Abram first 
 pitched his shepherd tent in Palestine, attracted hither by abundance 
 of rich pasture, and the clear and copiously flowing springs. At 
 Bethel, on his way to Padan-aram, the weary wayworn Jacob fell 
 asleep, and saw the “ ladder ; ” and many long years afterwards 
 the wanderer returned, a rich and prosperous man — for He, whose 
 “ word is truth,” had blessed him as He said — and gratefully did 
 Jacob built an altar here, “and called the place El-Bethel — House 
 of God.” The prophet Samuel “went from year to year in circuit 
 to Bethel, and Gilgal, and Mizpah, and judged Israel in all those 
 places.” But in later times, during the evil reign of Jeroboam, 
 Bethel became notorious as a chief seat of idol worship ; the city 
 subsequently was possessed by Judah, and the pious king Josiah 
 destroyed its images and altars, burning upon them dead men’s 
 bones ; Bethel was taken by Vespasian, having been rebuilt and 
 fortified by the Jews, on their return from the Babylonian captivity. 
 In the western valley are the remains of a capacious reservoir, 
 constructed of immensely massive stones, to all appearance of great 
 
334 
 
 BETHEL. 
 
 antiquity, and very much decayed. The interior is now a verdant 
 grass plat, nurtured by two small fountains of the purest water, and 
 has been most judiciously selected for to-night’s encampment. In 
 thought, we wander backwards to the days of yore, nearly four 
 thousand years ago, when the Chaldaean patriarch led his innumerable 
 flocks and herds to feed in plenty by this pleasant spot ; and watered 
 them at eventide, it may be, at this very cistern. Customs remain 
 unchanged in lands like these ; and good old Sarah may have daily 
 sent her maidens here, to fill their earthen pitchers from these sweet 
 and crystal springs, exactly as the Arab girls of Beitin are employed 
 in drawing water from the wells at present. The incessant tinkling 
 of our mule bells makes a pleasing cheerful sound ; although, for 
 prudence sake, we are rather closely packed. To-night is very cold ; 
 and a melancholy group of Christian fugitives from Rasheiya have 
 this evening joined our camp, earnestly craving our protection 
 until we shall arrive at Nazareth ; a request, which has, of course, 
 been granted readily ; and they have spread their coverlets and 
 carpets in the most sheltered corner they could find. Very quiet 
 and subdued the little party seems to be ; two men, two women, 
 and a child — apparently belonging to a superior class of peasants ; 
 and all are young, I should imagine, but the women are enveloped 
 in their cloaks and izzars, and I cannot see their faces; they seem 
 to have sufficiency of clothing, and are provided with two mules 
 to carry everything. Their final object in this dreary journey, is 
 returning to their homes at any hazard, and learn the fate of relatives 
 or friends. Many a sad and anxious hour have these poor mourners 
 known : and God alone can tell the woes that even yet may fall 
 on Syria, before the furnace of affliction shall be heated to its utmost 
 limit, and the precious gold refined. 
 
 Tuesday , May 7th. — We left our pleasant camping ground at 
 half-past six this most delightful morning, with many a parting 
 
AIN YEBRfiD. 
 
 335 
 
 look at the old wells and broken cistern; and feel hardly reconciled 
 to exchange our courteous Bedouin for uncouth Arab muleteers — 
 Mukaris , they are called. Sheikh Easchid, who escorted our caravan 
 to Jericho, was waiting for us yesterday outside the Jaffa Gate; he 
 exhibited, as a parting compliment, a few wonderful specimens of 
 his horsemanship, and retired with a multitude of salaams and 
 expressions of regard. 
 
 We know that forest trees once grew near Bethel ; for Deborah, 
 Eebecca’s nurse, died and was buried there, “ under an oak.” Those 
 woods have vanished for a little while ; but the Great God of 
 Bethel is the all- wise keeper of His people still ; accessible to earnest 
 prayer, as when He heard the voice of Jacob “in the day of his 
 distress, and was with him in the way which he went.” Our route, 
 immediately on starting, led through a beautifully fertile valley, 
 teeming with wheat and barley, orchards and oliveyards ; and bounded 
 by steep acclivities, laid out in terraces — with here and there a tomb 
 pierced cliff supporting them — and planted to their very summits 
 with olive, fig, and mulberry trees ; the natural capability of the 
 soil is really marvellous ! Ephraim was truly blessed with “ precious 
 fruits, brought forth by the sun .... and the precious things of 
 the everlasting hills.” ’Ain Yebrud is a pretty village on the top 
 of an isolated terraced hill, which rises from the thickly wooded 
 glens below; a zigzag road, cut in the rocks, once led to it, but 
 now seems worn away, and nearly useless ; for the indefatigable 
 beasts of burden have made a better pathway for themselves. There 
 is a thriving look of plenty in this district, which is very seldom 
 seen in Palestine ; gardens and vineyards are frequently enclosed 
 by good substantial walls ; and. many of the younger fruit trees 
 have stones collected round their roots to keep them upright, and 
 preserve the moisture. The landscape is singularly beautiful; bare 
 limestone rocks protrude above the ground, and wild flowers are 
 
33G 
 
 EL-LUBBAN. 
 
 brilliant and innumerable ; grey ruins of a town or fortress, perched 
 on some rocky height, occasionally appear ; and modern hamlets are 
 scattered far and wide. ’Ain Haramiyeh, “ the Robbers’ Fountain,” 
 was on our left, as we rode through the narrow and romantically 
 winding glen, which also bears that ominous sounding name; the 
 water trickles downwards amid drooping ferns, into some small con- 
 cavities, scooped out below. Remains of a massive reservoir stand 
 near the spring, and a luxuriant crop of corn is growing at the 
 bottom of it ; all round is bright green sward. It is a lonely spot, 
 so far as human habitations are concerned ; and yet the marks of 
 industry are everywhere apparent in the well tilled soil. As we 
 advanced, the hills became by slow degrees less steep and rugged ; 
 we met some peasantry, in gaily-coloured dresses, and at a distance 
 saw some shepherds, with their flocks, upon the mountain sides. 
 The village of Sin] il attracted our attention, but merely from its 
 site upon an elevated ridge ; and because, if we had gone to Seilun, 
 “ Shiloh,” it would be necessary to turn off there. The detour 
 occupies but half an hour; and travellers would rarely pass this 
 interesting place without a visit, if they felt secure from molestation. 
 Shiloh has literally been made “ a den of thieves ; ” who watch their 
 opportunity, and make a flourish with long knives and guns, to 
 frighten the bewildered stranger into granting their demands for 
 backsheesh. From Shiloh, as we proceed northwards, the undulating 
 ground slopes gradually to a much lower level. We made our mid- 
 day halt at the ruined Khan and fountain el-Lubban , Lebonah, within 
 a very deep well-cultivated valley, about a mile in length, full of 
 corn-fields, and the barley is now almost ripe. On the grey rocky 
 slopes, which bound its western side, are several sepulchral caves ; 
 and the houses of a village, also called Lubban, at least maintain 
 the semblance of remote antiquity. Here wc met another group of 
 travellers, heated and tired, like ourselves ; the Superior of the 
 
EL-MUKHNA. 
 
 337 
 
 Latri convent at Nazareth was returning from a journey to Jerusalem. 
 He accosted us in French, and offered his assistance in seeing the 
 “ holy places.” He rode a handsome bay horse, and wore the usual 
 costume belonging to the Franciscan order, with the exception of a 
 broad felt hat. He is a portly old gentleman, with a very good 
 address, and smiling countenance, and was accompanied by a Spanish 
 monk and a couple of lay attendants. He was evidently suffering 
 from fever, and seemed much exhausted by the noonday heat. 
 Leaving Khan Lubban, we crossed some narrow wadys, and then 
 ascended, by a winding rugged pathway, to the summit of a high 
 ridge. Before us lay the verdant plain, el-Muklma, extending about 
 seven miles to the northward ; with clumps of olive trees, so pic- 
 turesquely planted, that they give an almost park-like character to 
 the scenery. On the east side stretches a long range of hills, which 
 shoot dark rocky spurs into the plain, and form a line of separation 
 between el-Muklma and the Ghor. To the westward, two hours 
 distant, appeared a cluster of much loftier hills, but infinitely more 
 barren, and streaked with layers of chalk. These are the heights 
 of Ebal and Gerizim ; and between them lies the valley of Nablus, 
 the ancient “ Shechem ; ” while, far off on the north-east horizon, 
 may be seen a splendid mountain, tipped with snow, which sparkles 
 brightly in the sunlight — it is Mount Hermon, the most majestic 
 object in the view. Before we reached this part of our route, one 
 of the Christian women from Basheiya was missing from the caravan, 
 and a man was instantly sent back in search of her. She was not 
 far behind ; but the mule which she and her little child were riding 
 had fallen down among the slippery rocks. Her alarm was very 
 great; for had the muleteer arrived a moment later, he could not 
 have prevented her thickly wadded lifta , or coverlet, from being 
 stolen by the fellahin, who saw the accident occur, and at once 
 prepared to take advantage of it : these cotton quilts are very 
 
 z 
 
338 
 
 JACOBS WELL. 
 
 useful on a journey, as they make a comfortable seat by day, and 
 an exceedingly warm covering at night. Our people while away 
 the weary hours in smoking, and light their cigarettes or pipes by 
 a convenient method, ingeniously contrived — steel, hint, and tinder, 
 fastened to three strings of packthread, are tied together at the end 
 of a long stick, and then whirled quickly round and round, until 
 the sparks fly out abundantly. 
 
 Descending rapidly to the plain, we passed upon our left the 
 large village of Hawara, which is built upon the lower slope of 
 Mount Gerizim ; to our right, among the eastern hills, lay several 
 smaller villages — and Salim, one of them, has been identified by 
 Dr. Robinson with “ Shalem, a city of Shechem,” before which 
 Jacob pitched his tent on his return from Padan-aram ; and Dr. 
 Stewart suggests that probably the plain of Moreli, where Abram 
 came before he went to Bethel, can be no other than el-Mukhna. 
 Just at the very entrance of the narrow, but rich and beautiful 
 valley of Nablus, we came to “Jacob’s Well,” which lies within a 
 barley field at the base of a southern promontory of Mount Gerizim. 
 This sacred relic, whose identity has never yet been questioned — 
 a site especially revered by Jews and Christians, Samaritans and 
 Moslems — has for centuries past been left to ruin and decay. Not very 
 long ago, the Greeks, with Russian gold, began to erect a convent 
 near the spot, upon a substantial and extensive scale ; but, for some 
 unknown cause, the work was suddenly suspended. Beyond the 
 thrilling interest which every Gentile must, and ought, to feel, there 
 is little to detain the tired stranger here. A pit, entirely excavated 
 in the solid rock, but now almost choked up with earth and 
 rubbish, — although “the well is deep” — encircled with hewn stones, 
 and some broken granite columns lying near it — sole remnants of a 
 Christian church, built by the Empress Helena, and destroyed during 
 the Crusades — this is all that can be seen. And yet, we may 
 
TOMB OF JOSEPH. 
 
 339 
 
 imagine what this well was once — when Jesus sat upon it at 
 noonday, “ being wearied with His journey,” for He came hither 
 from Judcea, on His way to Galilee; and, as He talked there with 
 the woman of Samaria, He told her of the “ living water,” and said 
 that those who drink of it “ shall never thirst.” The scenery around 
 has undergone no change, perhaps, since then ; Gerizim, where the 
 woman said her “ fathers worshipped,” still casts his evening shadow 
 on the vale of Sychar, and seems to echo back the wondrous mes- 
 sage of salvation. The pathway to the city must be yet the same ; 
 the fields “are white already to harvest,” and labourers are engaged 
 in cutting down the barley. This “ parcel of ground ” was a worthy 
 gift from Jacob to his best beloved son ; it abounds in brooks and 
 watercourses, and pretty bubbling fountains, and is rich in fields 
 and gardens, vineyards and olive groves; bright flowers peep out 
 everywhere, and there are all varieties of foliage, from the dark 
 green ilex to the ashy grey-leaved olive. The mountains on each 
 side appear, for the most part, bare and craggy — the stern heights 
 of Ebal are closely pierced with cavern tombs, and the cliffs of 
 Mount Gerizim actually overhang a considerable portion of the town 
 of Nablus. Nearly opposite to Jacob’s Well, but a little to the 
 northward, stands the supposed tomb of Joseph ; the tradition is a 
 very ancient one, nor is there any reason to cast a shade of doubt 
 upon its authenticity. The enclosure is without a roof, and has a 
 narrow opening on one side. The interior is almost covered with 
 inscriptions, chiefly in the Hebrew, Arabic, and Samaritan characters ; 
 and there are several niches for small lamps, which are lighted on 
 particular occasions. The tomb stands in the centre, with a roughly 
 hewn column at the head and foot. A few wild flowers grow here, 
 and a vine and melon have been planted, and look very flourishing ; 
 the vine has spread its graceful tendrils over the wall. “And the 
 bones of Joseph, which the children of Israel brought up out of 
 
340 
 
 NABLlJS. 
 
 Egypt, buried they in Shechem, in a parcel of ground which Jacob 
 bought of the sons of Hamor, the father of Shechem.” We passed 
 the massive ruins of a Roman cistern, built when this place was 
 first called Neapolis — its present name being a corruption of that 
 word — and groups of white-robed women were assembled at the 
 wells as we approached the town, to fill their water jars, and talk 
 over the gossip of the day. There is a thrifty, independent look 
 about the people that is very rarely seen in Palestine, and both 
 sexes are handsome in their persons and exceedingly well dressed. 
 The women’s heads and cheeks are loaded with as many silver coins 
 as they can carry — even young children are thus encumbered, only 
 much less profusely ; and we saw some infants wearing silver anklets, 
 with little bells attached to them. Nablus is built upon a low 
 eminence, winch completely fills up the centre of the valley, and 
 forms its watershed between the east and west. The domes and 
 minarets of the town are half concealed by the dense mass of foliage 
 which surrounds them. The number of inhabitants is given by 
 Mr. Porter at 8,000, of whom 500 are Christians, 150 Samaritans, 
 and forty or fifty Jews. The streets are very gloomy, tortuous, and 
 narrow ; but the houses are of stone, and constructed upon arches, 
 in a handsome and substantial manner. The Moslem population has 
 always been notorious for turbulence and fanaticism ; they are ever 
 prone to rise in rebellion against their Turkish rulers, and Christians, 
 Samaritans, and Jews are alike continually exposed to insult, robbery, 
 and oppression ; and, indeed, the most trifling provocation, real or 
 imaginary, will often lead to violence and bloodshed. A great 
 quantity of soap is manufactured at Nablus, and there are large 
 mounds of ashes and refuse to be seen, very much resembling those 
 northward of Jerusalem. Cotton and oil are also staple products; and 
 this town is remarkable for excellent water-skins, which are tanned 
 with roots of the red oak trees, so plentiful in this neighbourhood. 
 
THE SAMARITANS. 
 
 341 
 
 When Joshua had taken Jericho and Ai, he gathered all the 
 people here, as Moses had commanded him, and “ built an altar 
 unto the Lord God of Israel in Mount Ebal . . .an altar of whole 
 stones, over which no man hath lift up any iron . . . and he 
 wrote there upon the stones a copy of the Law of Moses, which 
 he wrote in the presence of the children of Israel : ” and six of the 
 tribes were stationed upon Mount Ebal to pronounce the curse, and 
 the other six were placed on Moimt Gerizim to proclaim the blessing. 
 Shechem was made a city of refuge, and appointed to the Levites ; 
 and then we read in Scripture of many subsequent events — its 
 seizure by Abimelech, which gave rise to Jotham’s parable of “ the 
 trees,” spoken from “ the top of Mount Gerizim ; ” the proclamation 
 of King Rehoboam ; and the revolt of the ten tribes of Israel under 
 Jeroboam, the son of Nebat, who made Shechem for a short time 
 the capital of Iris monarchy — an honour which that city was very 
 soon compelled to share with “ comely Tirzah ” — a site identified with 
 Tulluzah — a large sized village on the southern slope of Moimt Ebal 
 — and lastly, to yield up altogether in favour of Samaria. When 
 the Assyrian army, led by their king Arbaces — Tiglath-Pileser — 
 conquered Israel, the rich and most important people of Samaria 
 were carried off to territories bordering on the river Euphrates. 
 Their places were supplied by emigrants from various parts of the 
 immense Assyrian empire, and a similar exchange afterwards occurred 
 during the invasion of Shalmaneser. The country had so long been 
 ravaged by continual warfare, that wild beasts multiplied to a terrible 
 extent, and became a fearful scourge to all the people. The new 
 inhabitants — Cuthoeans they were called — attributed this calamity 
 to the vengeance of the local deity, “ because they knew not the 
 manner of the god of the land.” They accordingly petitioned the 
 King of Assyria that one of the exiled Jewish priests should be 
 sent back to them. “ Then one of the priests whom they had 
 
THE SAMARITANS. 
 
 342 
 
 carried away from Samaria, came and dwelt in Bethel, and taught 
 them how they should fear the Lord and the result of this 
 teaching was, that “ they feared the Lord, and served their own gods 
 after the manner of the nations whom they carried away from 
 thence.” This is the origin of the Samaritans, who were thus 
 instructed to worship the Almighty under a visible image. These 
 idols were demolished by the good king Josiah, who forced the 
 Samaritans to abjure this anomalous mixture of idolatry with true 
 religion, and probably himself delivered to them their first copy 
 of the Pentateuch. This is the only portion of the Bible they 
 receive as genuine ; maintaining their assertion that all the other 
 books are forgeries. Strangers by blood, as well as by their creed, 
 the Jews detested the Samaritans in after times ; their very name 
 became a by-word and reproach ; nor would they suffer them to 
 place a single stone when, under Zerubbabel, the Temple was 
 rebuilding at Jerusalem. In the time of King Darius, the Samaritans 
 began to erect a temple of their own on Mount Gerizim, with 
 Manasseh, son of Joiada, for High Priest, who had been expelled 
 from Jerusalem for marrying the daughter of Sanballat, Persian 
 Satrap of Samaria. Shechem had become the metropolis of their 
 sect, and a sure asylum for apostate Jews, who disliked the strict 
 exactions of the ceremonial law. The Samaritans rejected all the 
 old traditions of the Jews, declaring their belief that Moses had 
 plainly indicated Mount Gerizim as the place where the sanctuary 
 should hereafter be set up. The final destruction of their temple 
 by the Jews, under John Hyrcanus, happened 129 years before the 
 advent of our Saviour. Hatred between these two rival nations 
 naturally increased ; and ever since that period the Samaritans 
 have continued, with occasional interruptions, to celebrate their rites 
 and ceremonies upon this holy mountain ; although we have no 
 record that the temple was at any time rebuilt. For many centuries 
 
THE SAMARITANS. 
 
 343 
 
 the Samaritans — generally merchants and money changers, like the 
 Jews — had colonies in different parts of the East, and even in the 
 West ; for we are informed of their possessing a synagogue at 
 Rome in a.d. 493. But at present, so far as can be ascertained, 
 the total number is reduced to their very small community now 
 residing at Nablfis. The “glad tidings” of universal salvation to 
 all who worship God “ in spirit and in truth ” were first taught 
 them by the words of Jesus Christ, as He sat on Jacob’s Well ; 
 the apostles preached the Gospel in Samaria; and Justin Martyr, 
 one of the earliest Christian writers, was a native of Neapolis, 
 which afterwards became an episcopal see. During the Crusades 
 this city suffered dreadful misery and atrocities, like almost every 
 other place in Palestine. 
 
 On visiting the Samaritan synagogue, we crossed an open court, 
 and entered through an arched doorway with a large lemon tree before 
 it ; the antechamber serves the purpose of a schoolroom for about 
 fourteen pupils, half of whom are girls — a circumstance unknown 
 in former years, that any female should be taught to read and 
 write. The inner apartment is provided with two deep recesses, 
 where all the sacred books are kept ; that which contains the most 
 ancient copy of the Tora, or Pentateuch, declared to be the 
 penmanship of Abishua, great-grandson of Aaron, is covered by a 
 very old embroidered curtain, square-shaped, and of white damask 
 linen, with censers drawn upon it — or rather cut out in coloured 
 linen, purple, red, and green, and neatly stitched in that conventional 
 pattern upon the white damask ground. This is “ the vail of the 
 temple.” Both rooms are vaulted, unadorned, and very dirty. 
 Every Saturday the people assemble here for public worship, which 
 is so arranged that the Roll is each year read completely through. 
 By Professor Levisohn’s advice, we inquired immediately for 
 Amran, the High Priest, but were told he was unwell ; and his 
 
344 
 
 THE SAMARITANS. 
 
 brother soon appearing in his stead, clad in a long blue cloak 
 and voluminous white turban, produced at once the precious 
 manuscript in its beautiful new case of solid silver gilt ; the latter 
 is a double cylinder and opens on two sets of hinges. A portion 
 of the manuscript was unrolled for us to see ; the handwriting is 
 firmly executed and wonderfully clear, although the vellum bears 
 undisputable marks of age and has been mounted on another 
 parchment, itself timeworn and discoloured. The case is wrapped 
 in crimson satin, embroidered with gold thread. Literature among 
 the Samaritans is very limited ; and the priesthood is hereditary, 
 descending from the father to his eldest son. There are several 
 later copies of the Pentateuch, some of which are written in 
 Arabic ; a printed hymn or psalm book ; several commentaries, 
 worthless chronicles, and fabulously absurd legends. The Samaritans 
 will never intermarry with strangers, and their marriages take place 
 at a very early age. The High Priest himself always celebrates 
 the nuptials, which never can be recognised without his previous 
 sanction. Their long cherished detestation of the Jews continues 
 unabated at the present day ; although they occasionally hold 
 commercial intercourse with them for pecuniary profit only. Pour 
 times a year they ascend their holy Mount Gerizim in procession, 
 reading the Law as they go up ; and for permission to solemnise 
 these sacred religious rites in peace, a handsome sum of money is 
 annually demanded from them by the Turkish Governor of Nablus. 
 At the Feast of the Passover they pitch their tents upon the 
 mountain, and remain all night, sacrificing at sunset seven lambs 
 which have been four days separated from the flock ; roasting and 
 eating them standing, with staff in their hand, according as the 
 Lord commanded Moses. Besides the Passover, they celebrate the 
 Feast of Tabernacles, the Day of Atonement, and the Feast of 
 Dedication. The prospect from Gerizim is varied and extensive, 
 
NABLUS. 
 
 345 
 
 including the trans-Jordanic mountains, Mount Hermon, and a wide 
 expanse of sea. The steep acclivities around appear in general bare 
 and rocky; but rich broad plains and narrow valleys teem with 
 waving corn, and the gently sloping terraced hills of Ephraim are 
 clothed abundantly with the fig tree, the olive, and the vine. 
 The shrewd sagacity of Jacob’s character was never more 
 remarkable than in his prompt selection of this part of Canaan, 
 when, after having passed over Jordan with his staff, he had 
 afterwards “ become two bands.” 
 
 Our tents are pitched below Mount Ebal, within an olive 
 grove and fig orchard, and not far distant from the western gate 
 of the town. We find the people very impudent and troublesome, 
 and are nearly poisoned with bad odours. A Jewish family of 
 three travellers — a father with his grown-up son and a daughter 
 of perhaps sixteen — intending to depart at early dawn to-morrow, 
 have solicited a night’s protection beneath the friendly shadow of 
 our British flag. Their law will not allow them to eat food 
 prepared by Christians, but they do not shun their company; and 
 with much reason dread the bitter fanaticism and cruelly insulting 
 conduct of the Moslem population of Nablus. This evening 
 Jacob esh-Shellaby came down to our encampment. The name 
 of this Samaritan has recently become well known in England, 
 where he went not many years ago ; and having excited a great 
 sensation among vast numbers of most influential people, both clergy 
 and laymen, Lord Clarendon at last agreed to send instructions to 
 all the British consuls resident in Palestine, expressive of the interest 
 which Her Majesty’s government had taken in the welfare of the 
 Samaritans ; and directing that, in case of urgent necessity, they 
 should be afforded such assistance as it might be right or possible 
 to render towards any subjects of the Turkish empire. Jacob esh- 
 Shellaby returned to Nablus with a considerable fund at his 
 
346 “ DOTHAN.” 
 
 disposal, for the purpose of improving the condition of his brethren, 
 and giving to the children a good and practical education. He can 
 speak English pretty well, but has never learnt to read or write in 
 any language. 
 
 Wednesday , May 8th . — We left our camping ground at half-past 
 six A.M., and gradually ascended the western shoulder of Mount 
 Ebal — barren and very dreary on the whole, as from hence 
 contrasted with the comparatively more fertile aspect of Gerizim. 
 And yet there does not seem to be a natural sterility in the soil ; 
 because, wherever ancient terraces are sown with grain, abundant 
 harvests justify the labour and expense bestowed. We passed by 
 several old wells and caverns in the rocks, and from the summit 
 the ruins of Ccesarcea were plainly visible on the sea coast of 
 Sharon. We halted for a little while at Jeba, a large and 
 prosperous looking village, two hours north-east from Sebustieh , 
 “Samaria,” and beautifully situated on the declivity of a steep and 
 wooded hill ; this place has never been positively identified with 
 any Scriptural site, but there still remains a massive tower of 
 bygone days, and the houses are partly built of ancient stones. 
 From thence the road led through a narrow valley, covered with 
 bright red anemones and other brilliant flowers, and past the 
 stronghold of Sanur, supposed to be identical with Bethidia, which 
 stands upon the crest of a projecting hill. There is a sparkling 
 fountain in the valley at its base ; the same, we may believe, where 
 Judith went at night to pray before she ventured to accomplish her 
 design in slaying Ilolofernes, the Assyrian general, whose vast besieging 
 army lay encamped below. Then traversing a round plain or 
 bason, called “ the Drowning Meadow,” from its being regularly 
 converted into a lake in winter, we knew we were not very far 
 from “ Dothan ;” and this is still the usual route of caravans 
 between Damascus and the great Egyptian capital. The pasture 
 
PLAIN OF ESDRAELON. 
 
 347 
 
 ground is equally luxuriant now as at the time when Joseph’s 
 brethren fed their father’s flocks upon the little hill where Dothan 
 stands — once “full of horses and chariots of fire round about 
 
 Elisha.” Well might the prophet reassure his trembling servant 
 with such trustful words as these : — “ Fear not : for they that be 
 with us are more than they that be with them.” The entire 
 
 narrative is replete with comfort, and the best advice to all whose 
 “hearts are failing them.” Singularly beautiful was the whole of 
 this day’s journey ; wood and rock, mountain, glen, and valley, 
 
 with the calm blue waters of the “Great Sea” continually in the 
 
 distance — and snow-crowned Hermon, never for an instant hidden 
 by intervening objects — combined to form a landscape of surpassing 
 loveliness, and varied every hour. The barley ripens much more 
 rapidly upon the hills of central Palestine than low down in the 
 plains ; and we remarked extensive tracts of yellow-flowered cactus, 
 grown principally for the sake of cochineal. We met five bandit- 
 looking men, well armed, and wrapped in white burnous’ ; followers 
 of Abdul Hady, chief of an influential clan, perpetually at war with 
 rival factions, and giving endless trouble to the Turkish government. 
 From the summit of a rocky pass our eyes first fell upon the 
 hills of Galilee ; most prominent among them all was Gebel Duhy, 
 or “Little Hermon,” and gradually the prospect widened as we 
 descended northward to the Plain of Esdraelon. The view was 
 really glorious ; for the plain is almost twenty miles in breadth, 
 with the long range of Carmel for its western boundary. The 
 large village of Kubatiyeh, evidently an ancient site, has been 
 identified with “ Chobai,” unto which town pursuing Israelites 
 slaughtered their enemies of the Assyrian host, who fled amazed 
 and terrified at the death of Holofernes. It is embowered hi 
 flourishing olive groves, with a network of fertile valleys to the 
 westward; but the inhabitants are said to be a turbulent and 
 
348 
 
 jen!n. 
 
 thievish race, and most unworthy of the bounteous gifts of nature 
 which everywhere surround them. Villages were very numerous 
 and the road to-day was for the most part excellent and frequently 
 
 overshadowed by thickly planted olive trees. Herds of small sized 
 
 cattle and splendid flocks of sheep and goats were feeding on the 
 rich green pasturage, or watering at the crystal fountains “which 
 run among the hills.” Wide-spread cultivation proved beyond all 
 doubt that human hands were near to till the grateful soil; and 
 yet we hardly saw a dozen people on our journey, while some even 
 of those were merely wayfarers — Jews, on one occasion, travelling 
 on horseback towards the Holy City. From the summit of another 
 stony, but not uncultivated, ridge, immediately above the Plain of 
 Esdraelon, the view was bounded to the eastward and north-east 
 
 by the mountains of Gilboa, becoming infinitely more grand and 
 widely distant than before. We then dived down through olive 
 
 groves into a grassy glen, with regularly terraced hills on either 
 side. And now our tents are pitched close to the little town 
 Jenin, En-Gannim — “Fountain of Gardens,” — a city of the Levites, 
 within the borders of the tribe of Issachar and the “ Gincea ” of 
 Josephus. The site, upon a low spur projecting from the mountains 
 of Samaria, is very beautiful, with its tall feathery palm trees and 
 magnificent orchards, surrounded by impenetrable cactus hedges and 
 watered by innumerable and copiously flowing springs. The noble 
 fountain from whence this place originally derived its Hebrew 
 name, bursts out among the hills that steeply rise behind the town, 
 and is the highest and most distant source of “ that ancient river, 
 the river Kish on ;” but during summer and autumnal months, the 
 water — conducted by an aqueduct into a large stone reservoir — 
 is completely exhausted in the irrigation of these bright green 
 fields and well stocked fruit and vegetable gardens. Jenin has 
 never been considered particularly safe for travellers ; as the 
 
JENIN. 
 
 349 
 
 inhabitants, almost exclusively Mohammedans, and estimated at 
 two thousand, are a rude and fanatical race of people, although a 
 Turkish Agha is habitually stationed here, to afford protection to 
 the district with an armed force of fifty horsemen in ordinary 
 times ; at present, since the massacres, two hundred is the total 
 number. Myriads of small green frogs keep up incessant croaking 
 in this snug corner of the plain. 
 
 Thursday , May 9 th. — The heat last night was dreadfully 
 oppressive ; and a violent thunderstorm, accompanied by tremendous 
 rain, lasted for several hours continuously. We did not leave 
 Jenin until nearly eight a.m., and when my tent was struck, our 
 servants found a live snake in it, crept in most probably for warmth, 
 and coiled round comfortably under my bed ! The reptile was 
 extremely pretty ; mottled grey and black, and fully eighteen 
 inches long. Our dragoman and the muleteers declared that it 
 was very venomous ; but they always make a fuss about these 
 kind of creatures, and never can believe that any of them are 
 harmless. At any rate, I had reason to rejoice this snake did 
 not climb up into my saddle bags, or among the clothes that lay 
 in readiness for this morning upon the low camp stool. I dreaded 
 lest the frogs might find their way into my boots, and therefore 
 did not leave them, as usual, on the carpet; but thought it best 
 to set them out of reach upon the table. The Agha furnished us 
 with splendid bouquets of delightfully sweet roses; and a sufficient 
 guard of soldiers from the garrison was sent into our camp last 
 evening. His residence appears a large substantial building, and it 
 is said that a considerable sum of money is always given for the 
 post of Governor of Jenin; a certain proof that such an office 
 can occasionally be rendered very profitable. The houses generally 
 are built of stone; but like the dwellers in them, they look 
 extremely dirty and seem much dilapidated. “ Oxen were treading 
 
350 
 
 PLAIN OF ESDRAELON. 
 
 out the corn” unmuzzled. This place is rich in all the produce 
 of the country, and the people hold commercial dealings with the 
 Arabs eastward of the Jordan. The tobacco plant is cultivated in 
 this neighbourhood to a vast extent ; but principally for home 
 consumption, I believe. We had a wretched six hours’ ride to 
 Nazareth ; the rain was very disagreeable, and sometimes fell in 
 heavy showers, while the wind was rather high and the 
 atmosphere opaque and cloudy. We pitied the poor Christian 
 family from Easheiya, who looked miserably chilled and woe-begone; 
 their clothes and bedding were completely soaked through during 
 the night, although my husband gave them money to procure a 
 shelter at Jenin, and Paolo placed his tent at their disposal. 
 
 The central body of the great Plain of Esdraelon, the 
 “ battlefield of Palestine,” is shaped like an irregular triangle, witli 
 its base towards the east, extending from Jenin to the hills 
 surrounding Nazareth. Its western half slopes downward to the 
 sea ; while long undulating ridges rise from its open surface and 
 terminate in Gebel Duhy and the mountains of Gilboa. The 
 scenery is by nature very beautiful, and the extraordinary fertility 
 of the soil, drained by the river Kishon, ought to render cultivation 
 both an easy and delightful task. Extensive tracts are sown with 
 wheat and barley, and literally “ bring forth fruit an hundred- 
 fold;” and bushy olive groves may here and there be seen. But 
 far too many acres of the vast expanse are overgrown with 
 weeds, rank grass, and thistles, from being left so long neglected, 
 excepting now and then a piece of meadow land, where a few 
 small cattle find abundance of rich pasturage. These animals 
 belong almost exclusively to the lawless Bedouin from the east 
 side of the Jordan, who are, in fact, the only tillers of the 
 ground ; a boon allowed them by the Turkish government, for 
 which they annually are obliged to pay a large per-centage on the 
 
rLAIN OF ESDRAELON. 
 
 351 
 
 crops. We saw their black tents pitched upon the plain ; and 
 two well-mounted Arabs, whose aspect was sufficiently ferocious to 
 awaken vigilance, joined our caravan half way, and did not leave 
 us altogether until we entered Nazareth. We have frequently 
 
 remarked a savage doggedness of manner in nearly all the people 
 of this district whom we met to-day and yesterday, especially 
 observable in the men. Several villages appeared in sight along 
 our journey through the rolling plain. To our left were 
 
 “ Taanach,” a border town of Manasseh, and “ Megiddo the 
 former still retaining almost its ancient name in Taanuk , and the 
 latter called Lejjun , the “ Legio ” of Boman times. There, Deborah 
 and Barak fought for Israel, and were triumphant over Sisera, the 
 General of King Jabin’s army. In the valley of Megiddo, the good 
 and pious King Josiali, faithful to his affiance with the Assyrians, 
 vainly endeavoured to arrest the progress of Pharaoh Necho, king 
 of Egypt, and was slain; “And all Judah and Jerusalem mourned 
 for Josiali.” St. John, in his Apocalypse, makes reference to the 
 final conflict between the multitudes of good and evil, who shall be 
 gathered “ together into a place called in the Hebrew tongue Arma- 
 geddon ” — city of Megiddo. In later ages, the Saracens and 
 Crusaders often chose this wide expanse of ground as the most 
 fitting scene for their contending armies ; and in a.d. 1799, Napoleon I. 
 fought one of his memorable battles upon the Plain of Esdraelon, in 
 array against the Turks. Zer'in, the ancient “ Jezreel,” has noth ing 
 regal left among its ruins now ; but the situation was well chosen 
 for a kingly residence upon the summit of a rocky ridge, which juts 
 out boldly from the mountains of Gilboa. Vines are not cultivated 
 near Jezreel at the present day ; but many spots can easily be 
 found which might answer all requirements as the place of Naboth’s 
 Vineyard. Immediately below the town, and sweeping southward 
 to the Ghor, between Gilboa and Gebel Duhy, extends the fertile 
 
352 
 
 PLAIN OF ESDKAELON. 
 
 Vale of Jezreel — Esdraelon is but the Greek form of that very word. 
 A spring of water at the bottom of the hill is by some writers 
 supposed to be the well of Harod, where God delivered the 
 Midianites and Amalekites into the hands of Gideon and his three 
 hundred followers ; but much more probably it is the “ Fountain of 
 Jezreel,” near to which place the unhappy Saul encamped the night 
 before his fatal overthrow. Far down the valley stands “ Bethshean,” 
 Scythopolis, from whence the grateful “ valiant men ” of Jabesli- 
 Gilead, under cover of the night, carried off the headless bodies of 
 Kins Said and his three sons, “ and buried them under a tree at 
 Jabesh,” where they remained mi til King David caused them to 
 be disinterred, and laid within “ the sepulchre of Kish,” at Zelah, 
 “ in the country of Benjamin.” Northward, through fields of ripening 
 corn, we crossed the Vale of Jezreel, and approached the pretty 
 little village of Solem, “ Shunem,” snugly nestled almost at the foot 
 of Gebel Duhy, and surrounded by neat gardens, fenced with prickly 
 pear. Here the Philistine army lay encamped, before the dreadful 
 battle of Gdboa. Not a single vestige of antiquity has yet been 
 found ; but a lively and romantic interest has always clung around 
 that pleasant spot, where dwelt the hospitable Shunamite, “ a great 
 woman,” who built “ a little chamber ” for Elisha’s use, when “ he 
 came thither ... as oft as he passed by.” Any of those broad 
 flat fields might be the very same to which her only son — the child 
 of promise, sent to reward her pious care towards “ an holy man 
 of God ” — one day “ went out to his father to the reapers,” and 
 there received a sunstroke which caused sudden death ; and over 
 that wide plain the mother rode upon her ass to Carmel, the home 
 of the great prophet, to tell him of her sad bereavement — armed 
 with unswerving faith to prompt the ready answer, “It is well.” 
 
 At a short distance, on the way to Nazareth, is a low and isolated 
 mound, covered with the ruins of an ancient castle, called el-FAleh, 
 
NAZARETH. 
 
 353 
 
 or “ The Bean,” a celebrated fortress during the wars of the 
 Crusades ; and the place where the gallant Bichard, “ Cceur de Lion” 
 surprised at daybreak by the enemy, slew four Saracens within his 
 tent, and took seven others of their party prisoners. Skirting the 
 western base of Gebel Duhy, we gained the first view of Mount Tabor, 
 in shape like a truncated cone, and dotted plentifully with noble oak 
 trees, some of which are thought to be peculiar to itself. This 
 mountain stands out, to all appearance, apart upon the plain, with a 
 dark background formed of densely wooded lulls. Above Mount 
 Tabor may be seen the blue far distant crest of Hermon — “ Tabor 
 and Hermon shall rejoice in Thy name.” We much regretted being 
 unable to visit either Nain or Endor; both villages are situated on 
 the north side of Gebel Duhy ; but no temptation could induce our 
 muleteers to conduct us thither ; and it is very probable they spoke 
 the truth in calling them “ abominable dens of thieves and murderers.” 
 We left upon our right the “Mount of Precipitation,” erroneously so 
 designated ; but it is extremely barren, and of much greater height 
 and steepness than any of its neighbours. By a rough and difficult 
 ascent, we clambered up the hill where Nazareth lies hidden from 
 the view below. The pass in general is bare, and very dreary ; 
 but there are green grassy ledges now and then, and a few bushy 
 shrubs ; and lilac hollyhocks spring up between the rocks in many 
 places. Along this toilsome path, and through that rugged glen, the 
 Son of God has often trod before ; it is the ancient road — nor could 
 there be another southward, from Nazareth to the plain. We passed 
 an ancient well or tank, and at a sudden turn the town appeared 
 in sight ; its situation is remarkable, and singularly beautiful — upon 
 the western slope of a deep mountain valley, very fertile at the bottom, 
 and well filled with olive, fig, and carob trees. White limestone hills, 
 close round the city, their upper ridges thinly sprinkled with wild 
 thyme and scrubby thorn ; but fields and gardens, olive groves and fig 
 
 A A 
 
354 
 
 NAZARETH. 
 
 orchards adorn the lower slopes, and every hollow dell looks bright 
 with many shades of green. From a small Moslem tomb, perched 
 on the brow of a steep hill, immediately behind the town, an 
 interesting and wide extended panorama meets the eye. To the 
 east, appears Mount Tabor, with the other hills of Galilee, and 
 behind them are the mountain ranges eastward of the Jordan ; 
 Mount Hermon towers majestically in the north-east ; to the south- 
 east stands Gebel Duhy, and Jelbun — “ Gilboa ” — lying parallel 
 with each other ; southward, the Plain of Esdraelon and the mountains 
 of Samaria ; south-west and west, the range of Carmel, clothed with 
 forest trees — its headland, crowned with the modern convent, running 
 far into the sea, and the flourishing little port of Haifa in shelter 
 at its very feet ; northward, extends the rich and undulating plain, 
 el-Buttauf ; and beyond it, in the distance, lies Kana el-Jelil, the 
 true “ Cana of Galilee ; ” among the nearer villages is Sefurieh, the 
 “ Sepphoris ” of Josephus, situated upon a low hill, with a ruined 
 castle on the top, and built by Herod Antipas, as the chief town of 
 Galilee. Nazareth — the early home of Jesus — was, in all probability, 
 placed then, as it is now, upon this very eminence, from whose 
 summit this commanding prospect may be gained. And hither He 
 was led — not by a crowd of heathen strangers, but by His kindred 
 and companions’ hands — by those who knew Him from His infancy 
 until that very hour. A Prophet, the beloved Son of God, “ despised 
 and rejected ” “ in Ilis own country,” by men who were offended 
 at His “ gracious words ” upon that memorable Sabbath-day. “ They 
 of the synagogue, filled with wrath,” would have “ cast him down 
 headlong,” but He was God, not man ; they had “ no power at all 
 against Him, save what was given them from above;” and that was 
 why they hated Him so cruelly, and could not bear Ilis pure and 
 heavenly teaching of a world-wide love to all ! 
 
 The total height of Nazareth above the level of the sea, is said 
 
NAZARETH. 
 
 355 
 
 to be 1,237 feet, about 800 feet above the Plain of Esdraelon. The 
 houses are all built of stone ; but there are mud hovels also in the 
 filthy narrow lanes, a wretched contrast with the more substantial 
 dwellings. By far the most important looking building here is the 
 Franciscan Convent ; a mass of heavy structures, including the Church 
 of the Annunciation ; the whole encompassed by a dead stone wall. 
 The Casa Nuova was erected as a kind of hospice by the monks, 
 and is the usual resting-place for European travellers ; we have taken 
 up our quarters for to-night in exactly the same apartments we 
 occupied before, and which are tolerably comfortable. A Protestant 
 mission has for some years been established at Nazareth, and appears 
 to be very zealously carried on. The present clergyman residing 
 here, is Mr. Zeller, a German, who married the eldest daughter of 
 Bishop Gobat ; and who was sent out to Palestine a few years ago 
 by the London Church Missionary Society. He has a school for 
 boys, which is usually well attended, and includes some Moslem 
 pupils, and several other children, whose parents happen to be Greek 
 or Latin Christians ; they are taught to read the Bible in the English 
 language, as well as in their native Arabic. Mrs. Zeller, also, has 
 a small school for girls, continually increasing, although by very slow 
 degrees. They have, moreover, classes in an evening for young 
 men, which appear to be exceedingly successful. Subscriptions are 
 collecting, wherever money can be found, to build a little church — 
 for which the Mission school-room is now the only substitute. There 
 is a pretty Mosque behind the Convent, and a tall white minaret, 
 with some very lofty cypress trees around them. The Moslem 
 inhabitants are but few in number, less than 700 out of a population 
 of nearly 4,000 — exclusive of the crowds of pilgrim strangers, who 
 flock to Nazareth at the great yearly festivals. The Jewish people 
 do not come here — for them, this hallowed spot has no endearing 
 charm. The Nazarenes, generally, are a handsome, independent race ; 
 
 A A 2 
 
356 
 
 NAZARETH. 
 
 well-dressed, and easy in their circumstances ; the women, in particular, 
 are celebrated for their beauty, set off to great advantage by their 
 very picturesque costume. The graceful long white veils, and fresh 
 complexion of the wearers, remind one of Eaffaelle’s loveliest 
 “ Madonnas ” — but simply of the portraits ; for I cannot think the 
 blessed Virgin Mary was so garrulous and noisy as those groups of 
 village maidens were this evening at the “ Fountain of the Virgin,” 
 the only spring of water very near the town. We may easily imagine 
 how the “ highly favoured ” mother and her “ Holy Child ” came daily 
 hither, with their pitchers to be filled — just as all Eastern maidens 
 have continued drawing water, ever since the world began. Above 
 the fountain stands the Greek Church of the Annunciation, a low 
 and insignificant building ; but the interior is decked out with a 
 profusion of bad pictures and other tasteless finery. “ The workshop 
 of Joseph ” is a modern structure, containing a small altar, and a 
 piece of ancient wall. There is also the Chapel of the Mensa Christi , 
 or “Table of our Lord;” — a vaulted chamber, with a fragment of 
 solid rock, projecting about three feet from the floor ; the walls are 
 covered with inscriptions in Arabic, Latin, and Italian, each of which 
 bears testimony to the credit of this very old tradition. The 
 “ Synagogue,” so called, where our Saviour taught the people on 
 the “ Sabbath-day,” and from whence He was “ thrust ” out by those 
 — “His own” — unto whom especially “He came,” has now become 
 the property of the Greek community. The Latin Church was full 
 of people, chiefly Arab fellahin from the adjacent villages, who 
 seemed intent upon the service that was going on to celebrate the 
 Festival of the Annunciation ; and daily will this service be repeated 
 for a month to come. The children of the Latin school were very 
 numerous, and took an energetic part in the seventeen repetitions 
 of “ Ave Maria.” The general responses were in Arabic, and very 
 deafening ; and the endless sound of “ Salaam Miriam ” became 
 
NAZAUETII. 
 
 extremely tiresome and monotonous ; we therefore had not patience 
 to stay and listen to a sermon preached afterwards in Arabic. This 
 church is nearly square, and divided by four pillars into nave and 
 aisles ; the walls are hung with canvas paintings, designed to represent 
 old tapestry. Facing the door of entrance is a broad flight of steps, 
 which descends into the grotto , where we were shown the “ Virgin 
 Mary’s kitchen ; ” and a broken column, the upper half of which, 
 suspended from the roof, “ is supernaturally upheld ; and the remainder 
 of the house was carried off by angels to Loretto ! ” The Greek 
 Church at Nazareth is governed by a Bishop, but the Latins are 
 content with a Superior. 
 
 Friday , May 10 th. — We left the Casa Nuova about seven a.m. ; 
 our Rasheiya proteges , and a French Latin priest, setting out upon 
 their one day’s journey to Tiberias, nearly at the same time. In 
 spite of threatening clouds at starting, we have been favoured with 
 a lovely day ; and had a very pleasant ride of six hours and a 
 half from Nazareth to ’ Akka — “St. Jean d’Acre.” This present 
 year the “ latter rain ” did not come down in April, the month 
 when it is commonly expected ; nor do the peasantry at all 
 regret its falling now, instead of earlier in the spring. There 
 seems much promise of an unusually abundant harvest ; and the 
 crops we saw to-day along our route are even more luxuriant 
 than those within the Vale of Jezreel. The cattle are marvellously 
 small ; but the sheep and goats do ample justice to the rich 
 pasturage of these wonderfully fertile plains. The ground is 
 carpeted with flowers, particularly the lilac and the white 
 convolvolus ; the wild hollyhocks are liner than any I have seen 
 in English gardens ; the best grow singly, here and there, between 
 the limestone rocks near Nazareth. I never shall forget the 
 prospect we obtained this morning from one of those encircling 
 hills. On one side lay the quietly secluded little town, and on 
 
358 
 
 ST. JEAN d’aCRE. 
 
 the other spread a portion of the great Plain of Esdraelon. It 
 was a panoramic view of almost matchless beauty ; but, by 
 association with the early childhood of our Divine Saviour, and 
 the happiest period of His earthly life, how cherished is the 
 memory of those varied scenes ! — the same, in all essential 
 features, as when He daily saw, and doubtless loved to look 
 upon them ; each craggy mountain steep, and richly verdant 
 glen may still remain unchanged. 
 
 About an hour after leaving Nazareth, we passed close by 
 “ Sepphoris,” with its venerable ancient castle, built of bevelled 
 stones — and many sculptured fragments ; besides some pretty ruins 
 of an old Gothic church, supposed to be erected on the site 
 where Joachim and Anna lived — the parents of the Virgin Mary, 
 The villagers are thriving and industrious ; their well tilled fields 
 and gardens, and large olive groves, make annually a profitable 
 return. Sepphoris, during the time of Antoninus Pius, received 
 the name of “ Diocoesaroea ; ” but was destroyed by Eoman hands, to 
 punish a revolt, a.d. 339. The Fountain of Sefiirieh was in later 
 ages the great gathering place of the Crusaders’ army, previous 
 to the fatal rout of Hattin ; and the camping ground of the 
 victorious Saracens after the disastrous battle had been won. We 
 observed some extremely ancient wells, and vestiges of former 
 towns, with many a modern khan or village built of very old 
 materials. For several miles, our journey led through park-like 
 scenery, adorned with clumps of ilex, most beautifully picturesque 
 in growth, from tender saplings to extreme decay ; the undulating 
 ground was covered with green sward, and gay with flowers of 
 every hue, poppies, anemones, and convolvuli predominating over 
 countless others of a smaller kind, but quite as lovely in 
 themselves ; the air was laden with sweet perfume from acres of 
 the pale blue hyacinth. Then, there were grassy knolls, adorned 
 
ST. JEAN d’aCIIE. 
 
 359 
 
 with trees and flowering shrubs ; and every winding streamlet 
 had its sloping banks, as brilliant and smiling as the rest; and 
 little birds were twittering from tree to tree, and chirping musical 
 and merry strains ; no wonder that each hour of travel fled far 
 too rapidly away. The road through the magnificent Plain of 
 Acre was perfectly level, firm, and smooth ; and, urging on our 
 horses to a gallop, we almost seemed to fly towards the city gate 
 — in sight two hours before we reached the wall itself. My 
 pretty Arab mare enjoyed the chase, and hardly touched the 
 ground. We are snugly encamped within the counterscarp — no 
 town in Syria being so strongly fortified as ’Akka. To the 
 southward stretches the long ridge of Carmel, its bold bluff 
 rising from the sea, which rushes furiously into the bay of Acre, 
 driven by a south-west wind. Midway across, an Austrian merchant 
 vessel lies at anchor, helplessly pitching up and down. This 
 coast is very dangerous in stormy weather ; and fearful shipwrecks 
 are yearly occurring in this rocky bay, at all times when the 
 wind is blowing from its present quarter ; the sands along the 
 shore are plentifully strewn with broken spars, and other vestiges 
 of several sad disasters. The gardens near the city are very 
 flourishing and extensive ; and the graceful feathery palm trees 
 they contain, make them look especially oriental. Pomegranate 
 trees are now in blossom, in gorgeous masses of most brilliant 
 crimson ; and, with the universal cactus hedges, also in perfection, 
 make up a goodly show of mingled red and yellow. The city 
 of St. Jean dAcre, whose very name seems blended with romantic 
 deeds of chivalry, has for long centuries been regarded as the key 
 to Syria ; and hence its close connection with European history 
 for the last 700 years. Its situation is remarkable and exceedingly 
 imposing ; fixed, as it were, in stern defiance, and apparently 
 almost sea-girt, upon a tongue of land, which forms the northern 
 
 A A 4 
 
360 
 
 ST. JEAN D ACRE. 
 
 limit of the bay. Massive fortifications extend around the town ; 
 and in many places there are double ramparts, strongly protected 
 on the land side by formidable outworks. We strolled along the 
 hard white sand upon the beach, inhaling the delightfully 
 refreshing air ; and then walked through the town, which looks half 
 ruinous and neglected, and bears the desolating stamp of many a 
 destructive siege. The bazaars are wider, and more commodiously 
 built, than usual ; but they appear miserably supplied with all 
 but pipe bowls, fruit, and vegetables. The Turkish Pacha has 
 been very civil in sending messages, and came into our camp 
 himself to offer his assistance ; he made most complimentary 
 remarks upon the British nation, maintaining that the Turks and 
 English had, since the Crimean War, become “ one people ! ” 
 The population of St. Jean d’Acre is estimated by Mr. Porter at 
 5,000 ; of whom are many Jews and Christians, Druzes and 
 Mohammedans. Of the Moslems, a very large proportion forms 
 the ordinary garrison ; and, if these soldiers should continue 
 faithful to their duty, it might be equally impracticable for 
 hostile forces, at the present day, to “ drive out the inhabitants 
 of Accho ,” as we know it was, when Asher tried in vain to 
 take possession of this important bulwark of his own inheritance. 
 Almost from ages immemorial, the proud Phoenicians had lived 
 and prospered here ; and the weak tribe of Asher soon became 
 ingloriously content to dwell among them. When Alexander’s 
 kingdom was divided, and all this part of Syria fell to the 
 Egyptians’ share, the city “ Accho ” took the name of “ Ptulemais ; ” 
 and thus we find it mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles, when 
 St. Paul touched there, “ and saluted the brethren, and abode 
 with them one day,” on his journey to Jerusalem. There are 
 very few vestiges of remote antiquity at ’Akka ; but several 
 ancient marble columns may be seen, built up in modern structures ; 
 
HAY OF ACRE. 
 
 3G1 
 
 the ruins of two Christian churches still remain ; and the Hotel 
 of the Knights Hospitallers is now converted into a military hospital. 
 On this occasion, we did not make a detour to cross the embouchure 
 of the Belus , upon the banks of which the art of making glass 
 was accidentally discovered ; or extend our journey even to the 
 foot of Carmel — where the river Kishon, like a wintry torrent, 
 breaks through a narrow winding pass from the great Plain of 
 Esdraelon, and falls into the Bay of Acre ; its breadth and deepness 
 entirely depending upon the season of the year, and the course 
 of the most recent winds. At Haifa, Sycaminum of the Greeks 
 and Romans, a flourishing little seaport town of about 2,000 souls, 
 the Christian population forms the vast majority ; and of late 
 years, an English Vice-Consul has resided there. A native Jew 
 has visited our tents this evening, in virtue of his office as British 
 Consular Agent at ’Akka. We heard to-day a very interesting 
 anecdote of a very aged Abyssinian, a Christian convert of our 
 friend the Bishop of Jerusalem, during his five years’ labour as a 
 missionary in that far off land. The poor man knew his own 
 earthly life must soon be drawing to a close ; and, with a 
 grateful feeling of affection, he longed to see his benefactor’s face 
 again before he died. Hot long ago, he left his distant home, 
 
 determining to end his days in Palestine ; and, when the Bishop 
 set out lately for Europe, although intending to return a few 
 months hence, the warm hearted Abyssinian appeared completely 
 overwhelmed with grief at his departure. With tottering steps, 
 
 he slowly followed the long cavalcade, which issued from the Jaffa 
 Gate, until he climbed the first hill top ; and there he stood 
 
 and gazed, until the travellers had vanished out of sight ; 
 speechless from sorrow, and with tears of anguish fast streaming 
 
 down his cheeks. 
 
 Saturday, May 1 1th. — We mounted our horses before seven a. m. ; 
 
362 
 
 RAS EN-NAKURAII. 
 
 and, traversing the splendid Plain of Acre towards the north, the 
 first object particularly to attract our notice, was a fine aqueduct, 
 constructed by that bloodthirsty tyrant, Djezzar Pacha. It was a 
 noble work, but falling sadly to decay. We passed through one 
 of its lofty arches, and soon came to a very pretty hamlet, called 
 Semirieh, surrounded by green fields and gardens, fig orchards, 
 and immense groves of orange trees : the late Abdullah Pacha 
 had a country palace here, built by himself, when Governor of 
 ’Akka. The scent of orange blossom can scarcely be too powerful 
 in the open air ; I thought it perfectly delicious as we rode 
 along. The ripe fruit has all been gathered for the present year. 
 At ten a.m. we were opposite to ez-Zib, a small village close by 
 the sea shore, upon a piece of rising ground. This place is 
 commonly supposed to occupy the site of “ Achzib ” of the Old 
 Testament — another city that was allotted to the tribe of Asher, 
 but of which they had not zeal and energy enough to take 
 possession. Asher could realise the promised blessing, “ Let him 
 dip his foot in oil ; ” and he had no taste for conquest. This 
 seaport town in after times was named Eedippa. And now 
 commences the great chain of Lebanon, whose roots, adorned 
 with olive groves and pretty villages, stretch far into the plain. 
 In front the Eas en-Nakurah, or “Hewn Promontory,” juts boldly 
 out into the sea, and looks like a gigantic fortress. This ridge 
 is generally considered to be the “ Scala Tyriorum ” of Josephus, 
 and forms the boundary between Phoenicia Proper and what is 
 usually regarded as the Holy Land. The ascent is by a zigzag 
 path which once was cut into a stall case , but it is in limious 
 condition now, and rapidly the steps are disappearing, to leave 
 no safer passage than the bare and slippery rocks. In all my 
 travels, I have never clambered up a mountain side more difficult 
 and dangerous (or animals to tread and yet oui Arab horses 
 
It AS EL-ABYAD. 
 
 3G3 
 
 and the baggage mules, with wonderfully steady firmness and 
 unfaltering pace, were slowly led along the shelving unprotected 
 paths ; where, had they for a moment slipped, they must inevitably 
 have been dashed to pieces. The roaring surge beats violently 
 against the broken rocks, hundreds of feet below. Descending 
 on the north this very formidable “Scala,” we crossed a mountain 
 stream, spanned by an ancient Boman bridge, and found ourselves 
 within a narrow plain, with the khan and village of Nakurah 
 immediately on our right. A full hour’s ride along the shore 
 brought us to remains of buildings, with several Ionic columns 
 standing, and others lying shattered on the ground ; but, strange 
 to say, without a name, or even a traditionary story connected 
 with them. A little farther to the northward is the fountain of 
 Iskanderiyeh, surmounted by the massive ruins of a fort, which 
 almost overhangs the sea ; this is the old Mutatio Alexandroscliene ; 
 and, whatever may have been the reason why this stronghold 
 was originally so called, there can be little doubt but Mr. Porter 
 is correct in his idea that it was constructed as a safeguard to 
 the passage over the Ras el-Abyad, or “ White Cape,” upon its 
 northern side. This remarkable promontory, “ Album Promontorium ,” 
 derives its name from the white and chalky nature of its strata ; 
 and, projecting from the lower ridge of Lebanon far into the 
 sea, it terminates abruptly in a high and perpendicular cliff. 
 The ascent is by an artificial path, much worn away, and 
 probably no other than the old Phoenician road along the coast. 
 This pass is very steep and rugged, although long flights of 
 steps are hewn occasionally to aid one’s progress. Sometimes, we 
 rode along the edge of dizzy precipices, against whose base the 
 waves dashed angrily, and with a deafening roar. Near the 
 summit are ruins of an ancient tower or fortlet, called by the 
 Arabs Kulaat esh-Sherria , “ The Candle Tower.” Within three 
 
364 
 
 TYKE. 
 
 quarters of an hour, we crossed the rivulet of ’Azziyeh, where 
 are remains of former buildings, near a small modern village called 
 el-Mansurah. From hence, we kept along the shore, and in an 
 hour we reached the gate of Tyre, “ Sur ” of the present day. 
 This once “ strong city ” — “ whose antiquity is of ancient days ” 
 — now occupies but a minor section of the north-west part of 
 the Peninsula, and stands upon a ledge of rock, originally an 
 island. The mole or causeway, formed with such energetic 
 promptitude by Alexander the Great and his besieging army, 
 with the “ stones,” and “ timber,” and “ dust ” of Paloetyrus , was 
 probably much narrower when first constructed ; but in the lapse 
 of centuries, the winds and waves have gradually accumulated 
 loose sand along its course, and the average breadth has recently 
 been measured at rather more than half a mile. Outside the city 
 gate are two deep fountains of fresh water, fed by a subterranean 
 conduit extending from the eastward, and from whence the modern 
 Tyrians derive their chief supply. The present Tyre has undoubtedly 
 somewhat risen in importance during the last fifty or sixty years ; 
 although still a miserable and (lirty-looking place, a very sorry 
 representative of the famous “ Mistress of the Seas ; ” and the sad 
 evidence of repeated earthquake shocks may everywhere be traced, 
 in shattered walls and half-demolished houses. The ancient harbour, 
 nearly filled up with sand and rubbish, was protected by a rocky 
 barrier extending to the north, and surrounded by a solidly 
 constructed mole, of which in many parts remains arc very evident. 
 Mr. Porter estimates the number of inhabitants at from 3,000 to 
 4,000 souls, about one half of whom are of the Moslem sect 
 Metawileh, but all the rest are Christians. The former seem to 
 
 be a strange and fanatical race of people, supposed to have long 
 ago emigrated from Persia, and whose contour of face, and general 
 expression of countenance, are characteristically Jewish ; while 
 
TYRE. 
 
 30)5 
 
 several of their habits, ideas, and common prejudices, have 
 apparently been borrowed from the ceremonial precepts of the 
 Mosaic Law. The head Sheikh of the Metawileh has recently 
 erected a kind of fortress for his residence, to the eastward of 
 the town. Since the massacres, in which so many of the Metawileh 
 were deeply implicated, the Turkish Government lias wisely 
 conciliated his favour, by making these ci-devant refractory subjects 
 of the Sulthn into an organised “ coast-guard.” Their green bell 
 tents are fixed at regular intervals, close to the sea, between 
 Beyrout and Tyre. We exchanged a cordial “Bon jour” with a 
 party of the French troops who are at present stationed here, to protect 
 the Christians from molestation ; and have chosen for our camping 
 ground a level space at the southern side of the peninsula. West 
 of the town are fields and gardens, with Pride of India trees 
 and lofty palms among them, imparting some degree of cheerfulness 
 to the dreary scene of desolation all around. There are remains of 
 ancient walls and other buildings ; but, excepting our own tents, we 
 do not see a single habitation of to-day, although a little patch of 
 culture may now and then be noticed, besides a modern cemetery, 
 innumerable mounds of rubbish, and several deeply-sunk pits and 
 trenches, from whence hewn stones have been removed to ’Akka 
 and Beyrout. The Tyrian merchants are no longer wealthy 
 “ princes ; ” for the glory of their world-extended commerce has 
 now dwindled to the yearly shadow of a trade ; and clumsy 
 fishing-boats, instead of splendid ships, convey the merchandise to 
 other places. Awfully, and to the very letter, have descended 
 upon Tyre the prophetic judgments of God ; the more we read 
 of her meridian grandeur, the more we “ tremble ” and are 
 “ astonished ” by the amazing deepness of her fall. At the south 
 side of the isthmus, and round the south-western point of the 
 peninsula, where fishermen now spread their nets to dry, are 
 
TYRE. 
 
 366 
 
 massive fragments of old walls and towers, and innumerable 
 
 granite columns “ cast into the sea ; ” while all along the western 
 shore are stones and columns nearly buried in the sand ; and 
 thick conglomerated layers may frequently be seen, below the 
 
 ledge of ragged weather-beaten rocks, where stones and shells, 
 
 fragments of bone, and broken pottery, are firmly cemented in 
 one solid mass together. The origin of Tyre has ever been 
 
 involved in mystery. When Hiram reigned as king, and made 
 alliance with the mighty Solomon, who was then intent upon 
 erecting the beautiful Temple at Jerusalem, we know that this 
 Phoenician capital could boast artistic skill ; her workmen built 
 the royal palace on Mount Zion, and her mariners brought 
 “ cedar trees and fir trees ” from Lebanon. But often, since those 
 ancient days, has Tyre been laid desolate ; her pristine glory 
 vanished from the time of Alexander’s memorable siege. After 
 that monarch’s death, the then no longer sea-girt city fell, with 
 many other places, to the Seleucidte. It subsequently was ruled 
 by Boman power, and seems to have been always waging war 
 with Sidon for supremacy. St. Paul, when on his coasting voyage 
 from Asia Minor, “ landed at Tyre ; for there the ship was to 
 unload her burden. And finding disciples,” he “ tarried there 
 seven days.” Christianity flourished here during the Crusades ; 
 the ancient cathedral is now the most important ruin in the 
 town, and must originally have been a noble structure. A 
 number of handsome Christian women, and their pretty dark-eyed 
 children, gathered in a circle round the spot where we had 
 fixed our chairs, until the tents were pitched. They looked very 
 much astonished at our strange appearance, but remained as quiet 
 as possible, leaving a respectfully wide distance between themselves 
 and us ; except a casual expression of surprise, they hardly spoke 
 a word, nor did they even ask for backsheesh. One little child, 
 
TYRE. 
 
 367 
 
 more forward than the rest, advanced beyond the line to have a 
 nearer view, and was instantly pushed back by a boy of ten or 
 twelve years old. It was most amusing to observe the great 
 anxiety to obtain “front places.” Afterwards their curiosity became 
 more troublesome, when the first half-frightened feeling had gone 
 by ; for, until nightfall, they pressed in crowds about the camp ; 
 and, although continually scattered by our servants like a flock of 
 sheep, they very soon came back again, with even greater boldness 
 than before. 
 
 Monday , May lath. — The lowering clouds that darkened our 
 approach to Tyre, had warned us of a coming storm ; the sea 
 rose “mountains high,” and the wind blew violently, accompanied 
 by sudden showers of very heavy rain. Under every circumstance, 
 this Sabbath rest was truly welcome to us all. The Metawileh 
 did not come near us ; but parties of the Christian population 
 constantly hovered round our tents, from sunrise until evening ; 
 
 they all seemed harmless and good-humoured, and we did not 
 like to order them away. They brought some Eoman coins, 
 fragments of polished marble, and pieces of mosaic, the best of 
 which we very gladly bought when they returned again this 
 morning, with several of the sadly fragile little Murex shells, 
 from which the famous Tyrian purple was formerly extracted. 
 Before commencing this day’s journey, we walked for more than 
 half an hour along the south and western edge of the 
 peninsula ; the surf was beating dismally against the crumbling 
 
 “ walls,” and fallen “ towers,” and “ pleasant houses ” of the once 
 “ renowned city,” Tyrus, the “ destroyed in the midst of the 
 
 sea.” It was a gilded sepulchre of other days ; for early 
 
 sunlight crowned each foaming wave with sparkling meteoric 
 radiance, or lay in partial streaks upon the mountains and the 
 plains. Our horses were apparently as willing as ourselves to 
 
3G8 
 
 KABIt HA IRAN. 
 
 make a start. A guide from Tyre had been engaged, and 
 turning to the southward, we retraced our steps about three miles 
 towards the south, until we came to a broad rivulet, just where 
 
 it falls into the sea. From thence, we followed the winding 
 
 course of this mill-stream, under shadow of a line of trees, 
 with midberry orchards at the other side, for nearly half a mile 
 inland — to reach the celebrated Eds el-’Ain, “ The Fountain 
 Head.” A wretched hamlet clusters round about some copious 
 springs and old Phoenician reservoirs ; which in recent times 
 
 especially demand attention as being the sole remains of Paloetyrus, 
 if we except foundation walls ; a fact, which, digging to 
 considerable depth, has amply proved within the last few years ; 
 the “ dust ” of Tyre has literally been “ scraped from her.” 
 There are four of these large fountains, each bubbling up within 
 a separate tank, built of enormous blocks of stone ; and in order 
 to propel the water upwards to a necessary height, they are 
 raised from twenty feet to thirty above the level of the plain ; 
 
 where they stand in close proximity, surrounded by luxuriant 
 
 vegetation. Four modern mills for grinding corn by turbine 
 wheels are driven by this water. The largest of these ancient 
 pools is shaped octagonally, and measures sixty- six feet in 
 diameter, and twenty-five feet high ; its sides are of prodigious 
 strength and thickness. Eemains of aqueducts, which carried off 
 the water from these cisterns, may be traced to a considerable 
 distance. In more perfect preservation, is an arched aqueduct of 
 Eoman times, running north-eastward to a ruined building on an 
 eminence, and thence extending in a westerly direction towards 
 the modern “ Sur.” An hour north-east from B&s-el-Ain, brought 
 us to Kabr Hairan, “ The Tomb of Hiram.” An immensely 
 large sarcophagus, hewn from a single block of limestone, placed 
 upon a very massive pedestal, and covered with a vaulted 
 
KABR IIAIRAN. 
 
 369 
 
 lid, has long been almost universally regarded as the final 
 resting-place of that well known Tyrian king, who “ made a 
 league ” with Solomon. The situation of this remarkable relic of 
 remote antiquity, alone upon a mountain slope, is very grand and 
 beautiful ; commanding a vast expanse of the “ Great Sea,” the 
 now fallen Tyre on the peninsula, and a wide spread section 
 
 of the rich Phoenician plain. The Prench have lately made 
 
 important excavations in this neighbourhood, and brought to fight 
 a perfect specimen of mosaic pavement, superior in style and 
 preservation to anything of equal size or kind that either Rome or 
 Naples can produce. It is too large to be removed elsewhere ; 
 and will not long remain uninjured in this lonely spot, unless 
 some stringent means are taken to ensure its safety. It probably 
 adorned a heathen temple, or the state chamber of a royal 
 
 palace. There are remains of a marble fountain in the centre, 
 
 and vestiges of columns all around ; the middle division of this 
 gorgeous pavement is marked out longitudinally, in square 
 medallions, of exquisite design and brilliant colouring ; on either 
 side of which appears a double row of beautifully fine mosaic 
 
 pictures, laid side by side together ; but depicted within circular 
 compartments, to represent carved frames. Por instance, a male 
 and female head, full faced, are next each other ; then come 
 
 two fishes, two lions, two tigers, and two leopards. The largest 
 
 pictures are towards the centre ; and in one of these two children 
 are holding a plain cross between them ; in another may be 
 seen an elephant, hunting a wild boar ; in a third picture was a 
 donkey, led by a chubby little boy, and laden with panniers of 
 
 ripe fruit. The highly finished workmanship, and the inimitably 
 spirited, life-like expression, in every minute detail of this 
 wonderful artistic monument, so very far exceeded all our 
 expectations, that we returned to look at it again and again ; 
 
370 
 
 THE PHCENICIAN PLAIN. 
 
 altliougli a drizzling shower was falling at the time, and ominously 
 dark clouds were gathering thickly overhead. Further excavations 
 are in progress, and chambers have been recently uncovered, paved 
 with curious marbles, and containing statuary and valuable pieces 
 of mosaic. There is a village called Hanaweih not far off ; and 
 shady trees, green sward, and pretty flowers, would do their part 
 in making Kabr Hairan very pleasant for a day’s encampment. 
 Fortunately, the weather cleared up as we proceeded northwards, 
 and enabled us to enjoy the four hours’ ride to ’Ain Kunterah ; 
 a copious fountain, close to the surf-washed ruins of Zarepliath, or 
 Sarepta ; and there we found our tents already pitched, within 
 a barley field, which had been very lately cut. An hour from 
 Kabr Hairan brought us to the Nahr el-Kasimiyeh, or Leontes — 
 called the “ Litany ” nearer to its highest source at Baalbek. 
 This stream is deep and rapid at its embouchure , and generally 
 unfordable ; the banks are picturesque, and at this season very 
 gay with oleander flowers. We rode along the eastern side, until 
 we crossed an ancient bridge, built with one arch, spanning the 
 river near a ruined khan, and which has by repairs been much 
 reduced in size from its original dimensions, especially in the 
 breadth of roadway. We halted there for luncheon, but found 
 the flies unusually troublesome. Not far from thence, stands what 
 is sometimes designated the “ Syrian Stonehenge,” a circle formed 
 of upright stones — nine men, the Moslem story tells, transfixed 
 for ever by the malediction of a nameless saint, the holy 
 occupant of a neighbouring tomb ; in vengeance for their mocking 
 him, one day as they passed by. At Adlun, supposed to be 
 the Ornithopolis of old geographers, are shapeless ruins lying 
 scattered upon the shore ; with a few curious round baths or 
 cisterns, an ancient well, some fragments of a tesselated pavement, 
 several broken cornices, and prostrate columns innumerable. The 
 
SAREPTA. 
 
 371 
 
 crags immediately behind are honeycombed with caverns — rock 
 hewn Phoenician sepulchres ; and farther in the background, is an 
 extensive quarry, from whence the stone was cut to build the 
 town of Adlun. Near Saraf 'end, the modern name Sarepta bears, 
 we passed a solitary Moslem well/, beside an ancient khan ; and 
 
 both of these are dedicated to St. George. This evening was so 
 mild and pleasant, we had our dinner in the open air ; and thus 
 escaped annoyance from the flies, and the oppressive closeness of 
 a tent. The modern village stands upon a hilly slope, at least 
 
 a mile more inland than that ancient place, immortalised by the 
 
 touching narrative of Elijah’s sojourn with the poor widow of 
 Sarepta, and her only son. The sea is calm to-night, except 
 
 where sluggish waves are gently breaking over sunken rocks ; the 
 sun set gloriously, and left a mellowed golden tinge upon an 
 almost cloudless sky. Mile after mile, we journeyed over this 
 Phoenician plain ; a scene of mournful solitude, and generally 
 devoid of interest. Large tracts of fertile soil are left untilled 
 for want of labourers ; although occasionally the Arab fellahin 
 have sown a crop of wheat or barley, and pay a yearly rental 
 to the Pacha of the district for the privilege ; not in money, but 
 in a per centage on the actual produce. At intervals, we saw some 
 shepherds, pasturing their flocks ; and one of them was guarded 
 by a noble dog, with beautiful white fleecy fur ; some Arab 
 tents were pitched near Khan el-Kasimiyeh. For greater safety 
 and salubrity, the peasantry prefer to dwell in villages upon the 
 mountain sides, and cultivate the ground on terraces. The surface 
 of the plain is undulating ; it measures twenty-eight miles long, 
 and the average breadth may probably be about one mile. 
 
 Tuesday, May 1 ith. — To-day the weather was delightful, even 
 for the heavenly climate of a Syrian spring. Soon after sunrise, we 
 strolled along the shore, but found the sand too soft and deep for 
 
 B B 2 
 
372 
 
 SIDON. 
 
 walking comfortably. Just as we were mounting, and prepared to 
 start, a couple of well armed horsemen joined our caravan ; but left us 
 near a much dilapidated Roman bridge, by which we crossed the Nahr 
 ez-Zaherany, “ The Flowery Stream.” This meandering river is not 
 unworthy of its pretty name, for the banks are clothed with verdure, 
 and bright with oleander bushes, than which no other shrub is half 
 so ornamental. An ancient chariot road, paved with huge blocks of 
 stone, extended all the way from Tyre to Sidon, and may still be traced ; 
 while here and there are granite pillars, and Roman milestones with 
 inscriptions on them. At nine A.M. we reached the gate of Saida, 
 “ Great Zidon ; ” and for the previous hour, we rode along a narrow 
 
 lane, arched over with the laden boughs of many kinds of fruit 
 
 trees, for which the gardens around Saida are particularly famed. 
 The oranges alone are fully ripe, and most delicious both in taste 
 and perfume ; the olives are all covered with their vine-like blossoms ; 
 and the mulberry tree is cultivated to a very great extent ; for 
 silk now vies with Sidon’s fruit, in being her principal production. 
 The total population may, by Mr. Porter’s estimate, be reckoned at 
 5,000, of whom 3,000 are Mohammedans, 600 Jews, and the 
 remainder Christians. A trade is carried on in saddle cloths, very 
 tastefully embroidered, and sent to every part of Syria. These 
 
 trappings seem to have replaced the gorgeous robes once worked by 
 Sidon’s daughters; and some of which were taken by the Trojans, 
 and offered in propitiation to their goddess as a spoil of war. 
 
 Gardens and orchards, irrigated by narrow channels fed copiously 
 from numerous mountain streams, completely fill the plain from Saida 
 to the base of Lebanon. We saw Egyptian “ shadoofs,” and some 
 water wheels at work, resembling those of Egypt, excepting that the 
 vessels for containing water are here small casks of wood, instead 
 of jars of earthenware, and look exactly like the drums for packing 
 figs. Upon the shore we passed several people spinning silk ; they 
 
SIDON. 
 
 373 
 
 used the ordinary spinning wheel one thinks so ornamental in the 
 rural cottages of England. To the north of Sidon, upon a sea-girt 
 rock, stands a mostly ruined castle, built of bevelled stones, and 
 connected with the main land by a long bridge or causeway, of nine 
 arches ; while to the southward stands the citadel, an old dilapidated 
 tower, erected in the thirteenth century by King Louis IK. of France. 
 The town is situated on a promontory, which stretches out into the 
 sea; it is defended on the land side by a substantial modern wall, 
 and looks imposing from a distance. But in bygone days, this most 
 ancient city of Phoenicia was much larger than it is at present; 
 extending further to the east and north-east, where various traces 
 are perceptible of the former walls and other buildings. The 
 antiquities of Sidon are, however, very few and insignificant; the 
 most interesting relics are Phoenician tombs, pierced in the neighbouring 
 hills, or out upon the plain. In 1855, a beautiful sarcophagus, 
 which once contained the body of an old Sidonian king, was 
 accidentally disinterred, and now is in the Louvre at Paris; it bears 
 an undefaced inscription in Phoenician characters, the longest that 
 has yet been found. In 1854, just previous to our former visit, 
 a number of gold coins were dug up by some Arab workmen, 
 the greater part of which were seized by government authorities, 
 and sent immediately to Constantinople, where they were at once 
 melted into Turkish money, to pay the Sultan’s troops engaged in 
 the Crimean war ; the remainder had been carefully secreted, and 
 my husband gladly purchased thirty of them. They are chiefly 
 “ stators,” of the reigns of Philip of Macedon and Alexander ; the 
 profile faces of both these Grecian monarchs are beautifully sharp, 
 but those of Philip are decidedly the higher class of art. There 
 appears to be very little mixture of alloy, and the outlines are 
 distinct and fresh, as though they left the die but yesterday. The 
 heads of nearly all the men we met at Saida were shielded from 
 
 B B 3 
 
374 
 
 ■TUN. 
 
 the sun by immense Chinese shaped hats, which had a rather 
 ludicrous effect. Half an hour’s struggling through soft and heavy 
 sand — at which the baggage mules continually rebelled, and lay 
 down with their burdens — brought us to the Nahr el-Auwaly, the 
 “Bostrenus,” whose highest source is near the top of Lebanon. It 
 is the northern boundary of the Phoenician plain ; a broad and 
 rapid river, in spite of several canals led off to irrigate the land 
 adjoining Sidon. Gebel Sunnin, the second peak in altitude of this 
 grand mountain range, rose up majestically to the northward, its 
 summit capped with snow. We did not cross the ancient bridge 
 built by Fakir ed-Hin, at ’Ain Auwaly ; but passing near a picturesque 
 old khan, we left the dull monotony of the coast, and turned aside, 
 along the south bank of the stream, amid the glorious scenery of 
 the “ Goodly Lebanon.” On either side the Nahr el-Auwaly are 
 
 found the deep ravines and rocky barriers which constitute the 
 mightiest strongholds of the Druzes. The prospects we enjoyed 
 from every point as we proceeded, by far sin-pass in grandeur the 
 mountain views of any other part of Syria. There is a magnificent 
 combination — such a wonderfully harmonious blending of all that 
 nature can bestow to make a landscape really perfect — - the richest 
 woodland and the beetling cliff, embroidered with the silvery thread 
 of many a running brook ; the calm blue sea, and still more azure 
 canopy of a cloudless sky. The path was often slanting and extremely 
 narrow, and frequently it overhung such dizzy precipices, one almost 
 trembled to look down into their depths. Paolo and his horse rolled 
 over into a barley field ; but, happily, the fall was by a very easy 
 slope ; he soon got up again, and no great harm was done. We 
 gradually ascended to a higher and still higher level ; until, at half- 
 past twelve, we came in sight of Jun, the very loveliest village that 
 all the world can boast, and occupying a vast extent of ground, for 
 it is perched upon the summits of four separate hills. We met a 
 
LADY HESTER STANHOPE. 
 
 375 
 
 little group of villagers, from whom a gentle-mannered girl came 
 forward, to ask our dragoman whether we were Christians ; and when 
 he answered “Yes,” she eagerly expressed her joy, and begged most 
 earnestly that we would sojourn at her father’s house, where she 
 knew we might expect a cordial welcome. Women and children, 
 well dressed, and with bright happy faces, ran out to kiss our hands, 
 and offer bouquets of delicious flowers ; they followed us along the 
 pretty lanes which intersect their fields and mulberry groves, their 
 vineyards and gardens, and at this season fill the air with fragrant 
 perfume from the wild roses and sweet honeysuckles that so 
 plentifully decorate them. At this great height above the plain, the 
 fruit does not appear so forward as at Sidon ; but there is a home- 
 like air of neatness in the cultivation here, which plainly shows the 
 people must be thrifty and industrious, and only want a better 
 government to make them prosper and feel perfectly contented. As 
 we mounted up the steep ascent of slippery rock which leads to 
 what is called “ The Palace,” the last earthly resting-place of Lady 
 Hester Stanhope, they told us that they all were Christians, and 
 implored we would not leave them to the mercy of the Turks and 
 Druzes ; for even this secluded mountain hamlet had not been 
 suffered to remain at peace, when blood was lately flowing through 
 so many other parts of Lebanon. Paolo had visited this “ Eagle’s 
 Nest ” on two occasions during Lady Hester’s lifetime, and was very 
 much dismayed, when first we entered what had been the gateway, 
 at the now sadly neglected state of this once luxurious dwelling. 
 It is indeed a melancholy comment upon human life ! The noble 
 minded being, who ruled with almost sovereign power the mountaineers 
 within her reach, was vanquished in her turn ; “ the wind ” passed 
 over her and she was “ gone ; ” a few years longer, and the place 
 she made so beautiful shall echo with her memory no more. The 
 grounds are thickly planted, and so admirably laid out, it would be 
 
 B li 4 
 
376 
 
 LADY HESTER STANHOPE. 
 
 an easy and a pleasant task to bring them back to what they were 
 some twenty years ago. The scattered stones would soon be gathered 
 up, decaying fences might be reared again, the broken fountains 
 
 mended. It is true that every room is now without a roof; the 
 
 only carpeting, a tanglement of grass and weeds in rank luxuriance ; 
 but the main walls are unimpaired by time, and might be made 
 available by any weary pilgrim fleeing from the world, who fain 
 would rest his foot upon this lonely mountain brow. Our guide 
 
 was an intelligent young man, called Yusef ; when a mere child, 
 
 he was employed as marmiton in “ the great lady’s ” household, 
 and we found him most exphcit in describing everything we wished 
 to see. There are several more of Lady Hester’s servants still at 
 Jun. I asked for Zezefoon and Fatoom, her personal attendants, but 
 was told they left the neighbourhood at the time their mistress 
 died ; and well they might do so, for they behaved abominably. 
 Lady Hester Stanhope’s memory is held in superstitious reverence 
 even now ; her ready and efficient help to those in need of succour, 
 her boundless charity and benevolence to the sick and poor, have 
 never been forgotten. The people love to talk of her ; they 
 scarcely seem to think she had a common nature with themselves. 
 Our tents are pitched within the garden which she planted and 
 arranged with so much taste and care. The walnut, mulberry, and 
 olive trees are very fine ; a single palm tree towers above the rest, 
 and pomegranates, oranges, and lemons, still are flourishing ; her 
 humble and neglected tomb stands near the centre, without inscription, 
 and decaying fast away.* The little kiosk where she spent a great 
 part of her time is now a shattered wreck ; the semicircular stone 
 seat, and a few steps in front of it, alone remain. Close by, there 
 
 * My husband made a model of this simple tomb, from a broken piece of 
 the white limestone which composes it. 
 
LADY HESTER STANHOPE. 
 
 377 
 
 is a reservoir, and into it supplies of water were conveyed along 
 a narrow channel that once adorned the centre of an open court, 
 round which the chief apartments of the mansion clustered. A 
 shady walk extends in a straight line below the kiosk to the 
 garden boundary, and opens out a wide expanse of sea, embracing 
 all the line of coast between Beyrout and Saida. On every side 
 the prospects are commanding to a wonderful degree, and grand 
 beyond imagination. The heat was overpowering, until the sun went 
 down, and then the evening was perfectly delightful, and redolent 
 with the smell of orange blossoms and sweet roses. When the 
 Egyptian army, under Ibrahim Pacha, occupied the whole of Syria, 
 a band of Arnaout soldiers was retained by Lady Hester for some 
 time : they used to fire their muskets from the vista in her garden 
 towards the sea ; the Arabs took the sound for that of cannon, 
 and were held in greater awe than ever by the mysterious 
 chatelaine. There were prisons for both men and women ; and we 
 saw the stable once allotted to the favourite Arab steeds, “Lulu” 
 and “ Leila,” from whence an archway opened into a pretty little 
 pasture field kept for their special use. Baths for herself and her 
 establishment, and tanks for holding water, were skilfully contrived 
 by this all talented and energetic niece of Mr. Pitt. The water 
 used for drinking came from a fountain in the valley, and was 
 carried to the palace by a half hour’s steep ascent. The entrance 
 hall is very large, and leads into a handsome court by a well 
 proportioned arch, upon the top of which a cross is sculptured. 
 Lady Hester Stanhope’s own apartments were on the left, consisting 
 of an antechamber, a saloon, and bedroom. The latter measures 
 only fifteen feet by fourteen ; but they are all extremely lofty, 
 and the prospects they command are beautiful. The inner walls 
 are built with small alcoves, for holding shelves or cupboards ; and 
 in a wall of the saloon are traces of a secret recess. The women’s 
 
378 
 
 THE LEBANON. 
 
 quarter faced this suite of rooms ; and beyond that, was another 
 open court — with a large apricot tree now growing in the centre 
 — round which were ranged the men’s apartments and the kitchen ; 
 and farther still, there was a set of buildings appropriated to 
 strangers only. The main structure was erected by a wealthy native 
 Christian, who afterwards became Mohammedan ; immense additions 
 and improvements were, however, made at different times by Lady 
 Hester Stanhope. 
 
 Wednesday , May lhtli . — Followed by the friendly villagers of 
 Jun, we rapidly descended to the fountain, which flows and bubbles 
 from beneath a venerable piece of rock, festooned with creeping 
 plants. We halted a few minutes there, to let our mules and horses 
 drink, and fill the water skins. At a little distance is another and 
 a larger fountain — that of Adjerun. There were many villages upon 
 the hills, and a vast amount of cultivation ; the mountain slopes are 
 laid in terraces, and thickly planted, and every little valley abounds 
 in fields of corn and fruit trees ; displaying rich varieties of foliage, 
 from the grey olive to the bright green mulberry. Jun remained 
 in sight for at least two hours of our morning journey ; the situation 
 is wonderfully commanding, and most congenial with the proud 
 unbending soul of that kind-hearted but eccentric lady who held 
 dominion there. From the general scenery of the Lebanon we 
 undoubtedly expected very much, by what we previously had heard 
 and read ; but the reality has infinitely exceeded all description. Each 
 landscape is a faultless picture in itself ; and every lofty peak we 
 scaled, revealed a nobler panorama than the last. The streams burst 
 forth from broken cliffs, and wind, and fall, and fertilise ; dark 
 clumps of fir trees, which we longed to think were cedars, here and 
 there appeared. Among the flowers were patches of “ Forget-me-not,” 
 as delicately blue, but not so small as those we have in England. The 
 rocks crop out exactly where an artist would desire them ; and the 
 
DEIR EL-KAMAR. 
 
 379 
 
 wild goats are gambolling at ease, where they alone could rest a foot, 
 and skip from crag to crag. All day, we have alternately climbed 
 lip mountain sides, or descended into valleys ; the route was sadly 
 difficult and distressing to the animals ; but the scenery so incomparably 
 magnificent, that they alone felt wearied and fatigued. It is well for 
 travellers in Syria that the Arab horses are marvellously sure-footed, 
 and can clamber up a rocky wall like cats ; they are, moreover, 
 wonderfully cautious, and very seldom stumble ; although sometimes 
 they jump, and slide, and jolt one dreadfully, on the most perilously 
 steep descents ; just at the very edge of awful precipices, and 
 where the rocks are smooth, and sloping downwards at a frightful 
 angle. We met a party of French voltigeurs, struggling with difficulty 
 down a mountain path, en route to Saida from Deir el-Kamar ; and 
 shortly before we reached that place ourselves, we passed two very 
 pretty villages ; from one of which a bugle sounded, and we saw 
 some Turkish soldiers fetching water from a fountain. The ruins of 
 an ancient town lay spread in undistinguishable masses on a mountain 
 brow, and recent devastation was apparent everywhere. A few short 
 months ago, and a picturesque Druze village might be seen on every 
 hill, where now are blackened walls and shapeless heaps of stone. 
 The site of Deir el-Kamar is extremely beautiful ; it stands upon a 
 mountain spur, and overlooks a deep and noble valley, at the head 
 of which is Bteddin, the famous and once splendid palace of the 
 Emir Beschir, at present used as barracks by a portion of the French 
 army. Every kind of fruit tree seems to flourish in perfection here, 
 especially the walnut, fig, and vme ; the French have planted 
 mulberries to a very great extent, and evidently intend to make 
 their “ occupation ” profitable. The vines are usually kept near the 
 ground, a number joined together, or trailing over prostrate trellis 
 work. What direful tragedies the past year has witnessed in this 
 glorious range of Lebanon ! — how many household gods demolished. 
 
380 
 
 DEIR EL-KAMAR. 
 
 and liappy homes, both Druze and Christian, laid desolate ! * The 
 stately residence of the last great Prince of Lebanon — and the palace 
 of his son, which stands upon a neighbouring hill, were shattered 
 and reduced almost to ruins by the Turks ; who left a sufficient portion 
 of the former undestroyed to serve their present purposes. The 
 Emir’s palace occupies a rocky platform, raised three hundred feet 
 above the bed of the ravine ; and, by permission of the Erencli 
 Commandant, we arranged our little camp within a small enclosure 
 near the outer walls. We rode to Deir el-Kamar soon after our 
 arrival here ; first passing down a zigzag staircase road, constructed 
 by the Emir Beschir ; whose ample revenues enabled him to rule 
 the mountain chieftains and their lawless followers with the most 
 despotic sway. The Emir learnt to know the value of improvements 
 on an ordinary mountain path ; and in all directions leading from 
 his palace we find well-made roads, the longest reaching to Beyrout. 
 The greater part are gradually falling to decay, and Turkish enterprise 
 will not stretch out a finger to repair them. Crossing the valley 
 by a bridge, we then ascended up another winding staircase for 
 about a mile. Fearful deeds were done at Deir el-Kamar, in early 
 stages of last year’s atrocities ; the blood of many an unoffending 
 victim cries out loudly from the ground for vengeance ; and strange 
 it is to see French soldiers hard at work in aiding the inhabitants 
 to rebuild their ruined houses ; and already they have made the 
 little “ Capital of Lebanon ” look very much like one of the small 
 country towns in France ; with its “ Grande Place,” graced by a 
 pretty fountain in the centre, and rows of newly-planted trees all 
 round. The French and Turkish soldiers quartered at Deir el-Kamar 
 have each their separate barracks. For miles and miles on every 
 side, the hills are terraced to their very summits with perfect 
 
 * Eight thousand people were supposed to have been massacred at Deir 
 el-Kamar alone. 
 
THE DRUZES AND TIIK MARONITES. 
 
 381 
 
 regularity, and bring forth great abundance of all that human 
 industry has planted. 
 
 Whenever open war is waged between the Druzes and the 
 Maronites, the Turks are always ready to support the former cause. 
 They cordially detest both sects alike, but cannot venture single 
 handed to attempt their extirpation. The Druzes are themselves 
 too cunning not to understand this game ; but their first grand 
 policy is to exterminate their hereditary foes, the Maronites, who for 
 twelve hundred years have bravely held aloft the standard of the 
 Cross, and bid defiance to the vaunted power of the Crescent. It 
 has hitherto been thought in England, but, I believe, erroneously, 
 that the Maronites commenced hostilities in the spring of 1860, and 
 that the principal Druze Sheikhs endeavoured with all their influence 
 to prevent a serious outbreak. Be this as it may, when fighting 
 actually began, and butcheries were daily perpetrated, the Turkish 
 troops were always found to take a part wherever Christians could 
 be robbed or slaughtered ; and if, for any special reason, they 
 refrained from joining in the dreadful murders on a few occasions, 
 they at least were silent witnesses, or secretly encouraged them. 
 
 Thursday , May l§th . — We awoke this morning to the cheerful 
 sound of the reveil , and were prepared to start by seven a.m. 
 In about an hour, we passed a pretty little village, called Kebr 
 Nebba by our muleteers, and where some Turkish troops were 
 stationed. The next village that we saw was Baruk, located in 
 a singularly wild glen, and until lately a formidable stronghold 
 of the Druzes ; and not long afterwards, we came to a beautiful 
 mountain hamlet, with a broad and rapid stream flowing like a 
 torrent through the centre. A number of green tents were 
 pitched, upon an open space of ground, and apparently a large 
 military force was stationed there. A Turkish officer immediately 
 approached, to offer us refreshment, and a shelter in his tent ; 
 
382 
 
 THE LEBANON. 
 
 but we had no object in remaining, and merely thanked him 
 for his kindness. I suppose the Sultan has commanded that his 
 army now in Syria shall be very civil to the English ; for wherever 
 we have gone, they invariably treated us with marked attention 
 and respect. In the villages, we see continually the Turkish 
 sentries keeping watch upon the roofs of houses ; and at intervals of 
 only a few miles, we meet patrols of half a dozen soldiers, who 
 are placed through all the passes of the Lebanon, to make a 
 demonstration of preserving peace ; but since the recent massacres, 
 the very name of Turkish soldier has become so truly odious to 
 the people of the country, that it is probable they do more harm 
 than good. This hamlet was formerly divided into a Druze and 
 Maronite population, and of course the two opposing factions 
 were at deadly strife ; but the Druzes having gained the upper 
 hand, and destroyed the dwellings of their Christian neighbours, 
 they are now engaged in putting every house in order for 
 themselves. We saw several of the Druzes on our journey, and 
 some of them looked very sulky, and would not even condescend 
 to return our salutations. They are a fine, robust, and well-dressed 
 people. Many of the men wear dark green turbans ; but generally 
 they are of white material, and very large. Their natural ferocity, 
 and uncontrollable desire for plunder, are proverbial, when once 
 their evil passions are aroused ; but in ordinary times they are 
 exceedingly industrious, and appear to be most skilful agriculturists. 
 The immense extent of tillage is particularly remarkable, in 
 proportion to the seeming scarcity of labourers ; and yet there 
 are vast tracts of richly fertile soil, capable of yielding a support 
 to millions, lying waste for want of hands to cultivate, or a 
 sufficient sense of safety to encourage speculation. From the foot 
 of the main ridge of Lebanon, until we reached the summit of 
 that glorious pass, the time was nearly one hour and a half; 
 
JUBB JENIN. 
 
 383 
 
 the wind was rather high, and often blew directly against us ; 
 but the splendid scenery, both as we went up the mountain on its 
 western slope, and then descended into the Bukaa, amply repaid 
 us for the toil. The snow still lay in thick large patches, like 
 linen sheets spread out to dry. A short way down the path, 
 upon the Coele Syrian side, we found a sheltered spot ; and rested 
 for a little while, beneath some fine old ilex trees, the trunks of 
 which were venerably gnarled and hollow, but had vitality enough 
 to throw out goodly branches. Towards Baalbek, far up the noble 
 vale of the Bukaa, Khan Merj was plainly visible in the distance 
 — a place we are not likely to forget ; having spent two miserable 
 days and nights within its walls, upon our former journey, detained 
 against our will by an unlucky snow storm. Khan Merj has now 
 become head quarters of the French army, and three or four 
 thousand troops are at tliis moment stationed there. The vines 
 appear to flourish on these elevated slopes, and wherever we 
 have seen them in great numbers, the plants were always trailed 
 along the ground. The flat roofs of houses, large and small 
 throughout the whole of Syria, are each provided with a rol lin g 
 stone, placed ready for immediate and constant use ; to keep the 
 earthy covering solid and compact. “ Gebel ed-Druze ” is a 
 well-known mountain to the eastward, in the Hauran ; but by 
 that very name our people called the section of the chain of 
 Lebanon we crossed to-day ; and the ascent of which may not 
 be in reality so steep as a few other lofty peaks we scaled from 
 Jun to Deir el-Kamar yesterday; but it was infinitely less tortuous, 
 and more painfully fatiguing to our poor patient animals with 
 their heavy loads. The sudden change appeared extremely 
 pleasant, as we rode along the level turf of the Bukaa, towards 
 our camping ground near Jubb Jenin, crossing the river Litany by 
 a nine-arched bridge. This town of Coele Syria suffered terrible 
 
384 
 
 JUBB JENtN. 
 
 calamities last year,* and indeed was almost totally demolished. 
 The infuriated Druzes drove away the Christian inhabitants, 
 plundering and maltreating them as much as they were 
 able ; the houses were thrown down, and a new and very 
 
 handsome church, where divine service had been only three times 
 solemnized, was completely laid in ruins. But all dread of present 
 danger has departed now ; and emboldened by a cheering sense 
 of European protection, the Christians are returning to their 
 
 homes. They all seem poor and very miserable ; and flock 
 
 around our tents, each with some woeful tragedy to relate. 
 
 They say the French have given them a little money ; and that 
 
 hopes are confidently held out of future compensation from the 
 
 Sultan. The English “ Syrian Fund ” allots them a due share of 
 food and clothing. This pittance must of necessity be very 
 
 small, from the overwhelming numbers who are now requiring 
 aid ; and yet it is most welcome, and gratefully accepted, 
 however limited the relief each individual may receive. A fine 
 intelligent looking man, of middle age, came down this evening 
 to our camp, and gave a sorrowful history of his own misfortunes. 
 His father and mother are still living, and he has five young 
 daughters. He said he was brought up in affluence, an assertion 
 which his manner and appearance fully justify, and therefore 
 feels incapable of undergoing much hard labour in the fields. 
 Compelled, since last year’s troubles, to live upon the gifts of 
 
 charity, he expresses lively gratitude for the help he has obtained 
 already ; and, in common with many others, he anticipates 
 compensation ultimately from the Turkish Government. In 
 recounting all his losses, he told us that his father and himself 
 
 * Thirty-five aged men, with snow white beards, were left to keep this town — 
 the entire number were barbarously murdered, and their mangled bodies left to 
 be devoured by the dogs. 
 
WADY MENSEH. 
 
 385 
 
 had been despoiled to the value of 45,000 piastres in gold and 
 silver coins and jewels, worn by his mother and two daughters ; 
 5,000 head of cattle, besides large flocks of sheep and goats, and 
 the destruction of their lands and houses. He finds employment 
 for the present in keeping guard over the property of his 
 neighbours, and for which he is repaid in produce of the crops. 
 
 The evening air is rather cold and chilly, although the people 
 tell us that the midday heat was overpoweringly oppressive ; and 
 the wind blows very hard, accompanied by heavy showers of 
 rain. This kind of weather, during May, in Syria, is said to be 
 almost unprecedented. 
 
 Friday , May 17 th. — The morning dawned with very little 
 prospect of amendment. Our waterproofs had all been laid aside, 
 from an idea they would no more be wanted, but very gladly 
 we made use of them to-day. We passed near several villages, 
 at one of which there was a pottery, and at another, ancient 
 ruins and sepulchral caves. The scenery of the anti-Lebanon is 
 not to be compared with the majestic grandeur of the western 
 chain, although in many parts it may be very beautiful. To-day 
 we certainly beheld it under every disadvantage, for overhanging 
 clouds obscured the view in all directions, and concealed the 
 outline of the mountains ; the rain came down occasionally, and 
 the lower hills were densely shrouded in the vapour of a hazy 
 atmosphere. We met long strings of donkeys, so completely 
 covered with their well-built loads of thorns and brushwood, 
 which they were carrying to the towns and villages for fuel, 
 that they looked like garden hedges briskly set in motion. The 
 Wady Menseh is a nobly romantic glen, but not the route that 
 travellers usually pursue. Its course runs nearly parallel with 
 another valley, called el-Kurn, through which we passed some 
 years ago, when snow lay thick upon the ground. These wadys 
 
386 
 
 DEIIl EL-ASI1AYIR — DIMAS. 
 
 intersect the eastern range of anti-Libanus ; they are of no great 
 breadth, but stern bold cliffs rise up precipitously on either side, 
 with here and there a few tall trees ; and rocks are lying hurled 
 about in wild confusion — singly, or heaped in strange fantastic 
 groups — with hawthorn bushes, full of the sweetest blossom, 
 growing in and out among them. At Deir el-Ashayir are many 
 rock-hewn sepulchres, and the massive ruins of an ancient and once 
 splendid temple. It stands upon an elevated platform, which is 
 ornamented with a sculptured frieze and cornice of its own, and 
 is surrounded by remains of other buildings. From thence, we 
 rode through a green valley, and along a very wild ravine, 
 which opened out upon a bleak uninteresting region of grey 
 hills, with narrow strips of verdure at their base, and now and 
 then a patch of vineyard on the lower slopes. A more 
 uncomfortable place for an encampment we have scarcely ever 
 found in Syria, than at this desolate village of Dimas, one of the 
 main stations for every caravan that comes this way. The French 
 have recently established a telegraphic hue from Damascus to 
 Beyrout, and have begun to make a road between these two 
 important towns. Dimas is situated upon a bare white ridge, 
 without a tree or shrub, or any kind of shelter. The wind now 
 blows with such excessive violence, that we are nearly suffocated 
 with dust and sand ; while every moment we expect the tents 
 to be torn from their fastenings ; and it was with no small 
 difficulty they were pitched. We can find no traces of antiquity, 
 except the central section of a Roman arch, enclosed at either 
 end, to form a miserable dwelling for two peasants’ families. 
 
 Saturday , May 18 th. — This morning’s dawn brought calm and 
 sunshine. We rejoiced to leave Dimas, and were ready to depart 
 at 6 a.m. We very soon emerged upon the stony and almost 
 featureless desert of the Sahra, where one sole object is apparent 
 
PLAIN OF DAMASCUS. 
 
 387 
 
 to attract the eye — the snow-capped peak of Hermon, towering 
 majestically upwards from its dark and craggy sides, close to the 
 south-east border of the plain. The sun beat furiously on our 
 heads ; and the very little soil that we could see looked hard 
 and moistureless as the sharp loose flints that lay so plentifully 
 above it. “The heaven that is over thy head shall be as brass, 
 and the earth that is under thee shall be iron,” was a fearful 
 menace, and the utmost force of which may frequently be realized 
 on any summer’s day in Syria. At the distance of about an 
 
 hour from Dimas, the route towards Damascus forks to the right 
 and left ; the left hand path, by which we travelled on our former 
 journey, should always be the one pursued. On this occasion we 
 trusted too much to our dragoman ; and, by turning to the right , 
 we unfortunately approached the city from the only uninteresting 
 point of view that could possibly be selected. After traversing 
 the dreary plateau for some time, we crossed a ridge of barren 
 
 hills, and descended to the little village of Mezzeh. There was 
 a narrow glen, completely destitute of verdure, through which we 
 passed from end to end ; the rocky walls of which appear to 
 have been hewn in former ages by the hand of man. This 
 
 dismal road, so inexpressibly wearisome to ourselves, is an especial 
 favourite with every guide and muleteer ; but for what cause it 
 is not easy to imagine ; the only difference being that of natural 
 beauty on the one side, and painful sterility upon the other. 
 
 Instead of bursting suddenly into view, as when we stood beside 
 
 a Moslem wely, five hundred feet above the level of the fertile plain, 
 Damascus now came gradually in sight ; its graceful tapering 
 minarets, and grandly swelling domes ; its gilded crescents, sparkling 
 like jewels in the bright glare of sunshine, just peeped from out 
 the dark green mass of foliage, which for miles and miles surrounds 
 them. The plain is watered in abundance by those two “ rivers 
 
388 
 
 DAMASCUS. 
 
 of Damascus,” the Barrada and the Awaj, the “ Abana and 
 Pharpar,” mentioned in the Old Testament ; of which we read 
 that Naaman, the Syrian captain, was so very justly proud. 
 From both these streams extends a wonderfully complicated net- 
 work of canals and rivulets, which irrigate the numerous groves 
 and gardens, and are led through other portions of the cultivated 
 land, cooling the heated atmosphere, and falling on the ear with 
 a pleasant murmuring sound. The plain itself is bounded by 
 bare hills on every side, their outlines for the most part undefined, 
 and blending softly with the glowing sky. We traversed dusty 
 lanes, bordered by stagnant pools beneath the garden walls. Here 
 every sort of fruit tree seems to flourish in perfection, as well as 
 many others that are simply ornamental ; and all kinds of kitchen 
 vegetables are raised luxuriantly below them. The apricot is 
 
 cultivated in enormous quantities ; and, being dried in various 
 ways, it forms a staple article of commerce. The lofty walls 
 that separate one orchard from another, are of very strange 
 appearance, and most primitive in their construction ; they are 
 built invariably of large square cakes of mud, hardened in the 
 sun ; and all along the top are palm branches, or dhura straw, 
 to form a curious kind of coping. We entered the “ fair city ” 
 through the large suburb of the Salaluyeh, which contains a few 
 substantial country houses, and rode through most of the bazaars, 
 which are extremely dirty ; but altogether they are delightfully 
 oriental. The bearded merchant, richly dressed, who seems to 
 scowl upon us as we pass him by, is far too grave and dignified 
 to sue for custom ; but, sitting cross-legged, and almost as 
 immovable as the wares that are so neatly piled around him, he 
 calmly waits till Fate shall send a purchaser, and smokes his pipe 
 the whole day long, or sips his sherbet and his coffee. And all 
 the while, a motley crowd of turbaned men and white-robed women, 
 
DAMASCUS. 
 
 389 
 
 and quaint old-fashioned little children, are moving slowly to and 
 fro, like painted figures in a magic-lantern — Jews and Turks, 
 Syrians and Arabians, with now and then a solitary European ; 
 itinerant confectioners, and the vendors of iced-creams and sherbets ; 
 long strings of loaded camels, which threaten to demolish one at 
 every step ; mules and donkeys ; splendid Arab horses, gorgeously 
 caparisoned ; and sulky wolfish-looking dogs, which generally are 
 lying on the ground in everybody’s way, until the dusk of 
 evening, and only stir during the daytime with a half-sleepy dismal 
 howl when anybody treads upon them. The troops of Fuad Pacha 
 parade the streets incessantly, and keep in momentary awe this turbulent 
 and cowardly population. These now exceedingly polite and stately 
 shopkeepers, edged on by love of plunder and the deadly rancour 
 of fanaticism, were implicated in the massacres to a very great extent ; 
 and scarcely one of them escaped the guilt of cruel murder at that 
 awful time. Fuad Pacha appears to be most cordially detested by 
 the Mohammedans, although he is immensely feared by them ; for his 
 measures have been strikingly energetic in bringing the chief criminals 
 to justice, and in levying a vast amount of money from the Moslem 
 citizens — which is destined, ostensibly at least, to be given in com- 
 pensation to the Christians. Within the city walls, the once flourishing 
 bazaars of Damascus are even yet a principal attraction. But what 
 a woeful change one year’s calamity has wrought ! The destroying 
 angel visited the land, and drew his sword upon Damascus ; the 
 blow was struck with overwhelming force — all enterprise has been 
 completely crushed, and will not soon recover from so terrible a fall. 
 It is asserted that the Moslems are too late made sensible of their 
 gi'ievous error in thus paralysing the trade of their metropolis, and 
 destroying the manufactures for which Damascus has for centuries 
 been celebrated. These bazaars are not by any means so extensive 
 as those of Constantinople ; or nearly so picturesque in point of 
 
 c c 3 
 
390 
 
 DAMASCUS. 
 
 architecture as some we saw in ancient streets at Cairo ; but they 
 are far more free from Western innovation, and more thoroughly 
 characteristic of the East. They are built generally in long arcades, 
 almost entirely covered over at the top ; with large booths on either 
 side, lined round with shelves, and the floors of which are raised two 
 feet above the level of the ground. They are divided from each 
 other by a thin partition, and may at any time be closed by wooden 
 shutters, falling down in front. The bargaining for each separate 
 article is a very tiresome affair ; for the price demanded is invariably 
 the highest that can possibly be asked above the actual value, and 
 the offer made by those who wish to purchase is proportionably low. 
 An hour or more is often thus consumed in arguments and 
 protestations, and every kind of strange manoeuvre, in which the 
 bystanders are sure to take an active part on one side or the other. 
 This diplomatic game of Eastern traffic is particularly exciting to an 
 Oriental ; but very soon wears out the patience of an Englishman, 
 who usually prefers being moderately cheated, and allowed to go 
 his way in peace. If the merchant thinks he has secured a profitable 
 customer, he will treat him to a pipe and cup of coffee while the 
 business is transacting. And finally, when all is settled, and the 
 money reckoned out and paid, the buyer and the seller must de 
 convenance , put on an air of martyrdom, although perhaps they 
 secretly rejoice in the mutual bargain they have made. From the 
 seed and spice bazaar, and through a noble gateway of the purest 
 Saracenic architecture, we entered the great Khan of Assad Pacha, 
 where the richest merchants of Damascus have their gloomy counting 
 houses, and keep their precious stores. Its roof consists of several 
 small domes, supported upon massive piers, built of alternate layers 
 of black basalt and the common limestone of the country. There are 
 many other Khans of this description at Damascus, but that of Assad 
 Pacha is much the most important and magnificent. Every street, 
 
DAMASCUS. 
 
 391 
 
 without exception, is brightened up with its own baths and cafes ; 
 the exterior walls of both are painted horizontally, in broad stripes of 
 crimson, blue, and white — barbarously effective, and extremely gay. 
 I could not help admiring them, they looked so very cheerful, and so 
 completely in their proper place. The cafes are cool darkened 
 chambers, where men sit smoking their chibouks and nargilehs, and 
 drinking lemonade and coffee. The baths are spacious halls or open 
 courts — the latter planted with tall trees, and with a pretty fountain, 
 or a reservoir of running water, in the centre ; and men are lounging 
 on divans all day, enveloped in white clothes from head to foot ; 
 while the attendants, clad also in white garments, move about like 
 wooden puppets, to fetch the bathers all that they require, or wring 
 out sheets and towels that have just been used, and hang them across 
 long lines to dry. There are several pretty cafes at the outskirts of 
 the town, occasionally arranged in imitation of a rustic bower. In 
 the evening they are brilliantly lighted up by lamps, suspended from 
 the many trees which shelter them so pleasantly from the glaring sun 
 by day. A few of these suburban cafes are furnished with wooden 
 balconies or platforms, which are gracefully festooned with creeping 
 plants, and project over the foaming rapid current of the Barrada. 
 They are all extremely pretty, with their ever playing fountains in the 
 midst of shade and verdure, and enlivened by cascades and artificial 
 waterfalls. We found the same hotel where we had rooms before, 
 and where we now are staying for a little while, had changed its 
 landlord since our former visit to Damascus. Our present host, 
 
 Demetri, appears extremely anxious to oblige ; he is a Greek by 
 birth, and began to earn a livelihood by serving as an Arnaout soldier. 
 He has a very open, honest countenance, with a brave, determined 
 look about him, which prepossessed me in his favour in a moment ; 
 and what is most important, as regards his own prosperity, he is 
 never for an instant idle, but always seems to be engaged in doing 
 
 c c 4 
 
392 
 
 DAMASCUS. 
 
 something useful. To our extreme amazement, lie told us that, 
 although a Christian, he was suffered to remain in safety, when the 
 blood of thousands was so freely shed around him. It is said that 
 the Mahommedans respect, and even fear, the upright character and 
 well-known courage of Demetri. Provided with a large supply 
 of fire-arms, he resolved to make a stand, and threatened death to 
 any man who dared to show himself his enemy. The Almighty has 
 hitherto protected him from very serious molestation, in the midst 
 of many dangers ; for, in spite of all his menaces and precautions, 
 the hotel was robbed of furniture and other valuable property, some 
 part of which has lately been restored. With the exception of this 
 Greek landlord, and the members of different European consulates 
 at Damascus, not a single Christian can now be found. The Irish 
 and American Presbyterian missionaries, who so long had laboured 
 here, with gradually increasing prospects of success, until the dreadful 
 crisis of last year, have just taken their departure for Beyrout ; and 
 I believe that for the present they intend remaining at their various 
 mountain stations in the Lebanon. The Arab tribes of the Hauran 
 and the great Eastern Desert are fighting desperately among themselves, 
 and our intended journey to Palmyra must, in consequence, be 
 abandoned. In fact, the only Arab leader we could prudently select 
 to take us there has been severely wounded in a late affray ; and 
 the English lady, whom he married a few years ago, has gone to 
 Homs to nurse him. Of all the Arab tribes, none arc considered 
 to be so powerful, or so widely spread, as the Anazeh. They can 
 bring a hundred thousand men into the field, armed with steel 
 pointed lances, twelve feet long, and are lords paramount over an 
 immense extent of territory. The Sab’a is an important branch of 
 this large tribe ; and Sheikh Mijuel, the Arab prince I have just 
 mentioned, is the younger brother of its chieftain, Sheikh Muhammed, 
 and bears the highest character for generosity, kindness of manner, 
 
DAMASCUS. 
 
 393 
 
 and unswerving fidelity to his engagements. Everybody speaks well 
 of him ; and, from all accounts, he is a noble specimen of the Bedouin 
 race. Of course, his real home is in the Desert ; but he has a charming 
 house and garden at Damascus, combining in most perfect taste every 
 imaginable luxury and comfort that the East and West can furnish ; 
 and where he goes occasionally for a short time, although he probably 
 cares very little for such things. Strangers are always sadly disap- 
 pointed in Damascus, when they have not gained an access to the 
 splendid dwellings of the richer classes among Jews and Moslems. 
 The outside walls are windowless, and cased in whitewashed mud ; 
 thus rendered hideously unattractive for precaution’s sake. A narrow 
 doorway opens into a very dark and winding passage, which leads 
 into the outer court, surrounded by apartments for the servants of the 
 household ; but which is often very pretty, and prepares one for the 
 “fairy land” beyond — a larger court, with sometimes several fountains, 
 and the floor paved with marble in mosaic patterns ; and shaded 
 everywhere with orange, citron, and pomegranate trees ; besides the 
 blooming myrtles, and the gay pink oleander bushes, and an infinite 
 variety of other shrubs and plants, all bearing sweetly-scented and 
 most lovely flowers. On three sides of this court are carved wooden 
 balconies and staircases, with vines and roses twined about them, 
 communicating with the chambers of the upper story ; and upon the 
 north side is only the leewan — a deep recess, provided with luxurious 
 divans, where visitors are generally received, and which is ornamented 
 in the most gorgeous manner upon the walls and ceiling. The state 
 apartments are superb in decoration ; the walls are covered with gilding 
 and mosaic ; there is a row of latticed windows near the ceiling ; 
 and the latter is invariably of wood, most beautifully carved, and 
 elaborately gilt and painted. There is always a fountain in the lower 
 part of the room ; and upon the dais are laid thick Persian carpets 
 and strips of coloured matting. The cushions and divans have coverings 
 
394 
 
 DAMASCUS. 
 
 of brocaded silk or satin, in the very brightest shades of scarlet, 
 blue, or yellow. In Moslem houses, ladies usually reside within a 
 third court, still handsomer than this, and seldom stir beyond it. The 
 flat roofs form their daily, and to them sufficient, promenade. The 
 entrance to Demetri’s hotel is by a similar low door, and dismal tortuous 
 passage to those I have been just describing; and no mansion in 
 Damascus could be more completely handsome when untouched by 
 time. I never tire of looking at the spacious court, with its mosaic 
 marble pavement, and the fantastic Moorish architecture on every side ; 
 the single lemon tree growing in one corner ; and a gaily-coloured 
 fringe of bushy flowering shrubs, half hiding the enormous tank of 
 water in the centre, which swarms with hundreds of gold fish. The 
 leewan , with its high-arched roof and lofty walls, adorned with 
 Arabesque designs, is even at midday a cool and pleasant place, and 
 there we have arranged to take our meals. The wooden stairs and 
 balconies look no less picturesque because they are so very tumbledown 
 and rickety. The exterior of the basement storeys is gaily painted, 
 like the baths and cafes, in broad horizontal stripes of crimson, blue, 
 and white ; the upper story is merely coated over with a white cement. 
 A few tame partridges are twittering about, and a very pretty little 
 Maltese dog exceedingly delights in bullying them. 
 
 This afternoon we visited the Christian quarter of the city: a 
 fearful scene to witness, for hardly has one stone been left upon 
 another ; and Turkish sentinels are loitering about, and will not let 
 one walk a step among these shapeless ruins until they have obtained 
 a backsheesh. One dare not picture the reality of those sad days of 
 slaughter. All we had ever heard or read regarding the Damascus 
 outbreak, became instantly apparent, and started like a spectral vision 
 to our view. The private houses, large and small, demolished and 
 thrown down; the many silk looms that once we saw so busily at 
 work, have disappeared ; the handsome new Greek church, not 
 
ABD-EL-KADER. 
 
 395 
 
 finished when we last were here, has been totally destroyed; and 
 amid the universal wreck, its beautiful baptismal font is lying shattered 
 on the ground. The British Consul, Mr. Rogers, is now absent from 
 Damascus ; but Mr. Wrench, acting in his stead, dined with us to-day. 
 At the dreadful period of the massacres, the fife of every member of 
 the European consulates seemed to hang upon a very slender thread. 
 Conversations were distinctly overheard, in which the Turkish soldiers 
 discussed among themselves the expediency of turning traitors to the 
 European Consuls, whom at that very moment they were ostensibly 
 protecting ! 
 
 The climate of Damascus is considered to be often very cold in 
 winter, and particularly unhealthy in the summer ; not so much from 
 the excessive heat, which is thought to be much greater at Beyrout, 
 as from the damp exhalations caused by such a vast amount of 
 water in the neighbourhood, and the want of proper drainage near 
 the city ; but in spring and autumn the weather is delightful, and 
 perfectly salubrious. The inhabitants enjoy a most essential advantage 
 in being comparatively free from the plague of common flies and 
 mosquitoes, although they have an ample share of insect miseries in 
 another form. We have again the pleasure of meeting Mr. Gordon* 
 and Captain Moody ; the former intends to make a few days tour in the 
 Hauran, which is rather a perilous undertaking at the present moment. 
 
 Monday , May 20 th. — My husband had an interview to-day with 
 Abd-el-Kader, the Algerian Emir, who last year so nobly risked his 
 life to save the Christians: an act of heroism on behalf of “infidels,” 
 which has gained him the ill-will of all the Moslem population. 
 Nor is Abd-el-Kader in particularly good odour with his Algerine 
 followers, who very naturally disapprove of his abandoning the 
 Bedouin customs of his country, and dressing like the wealthy 
 
 * The Honble. Arthur Hamilton Gordon, C.M.G., now Lieutenant-Governor of 
 New Brunswick. 
 
396 
 
 DAMASCUS. 
 
 Damascenes. Moreover, he does not disdain to bear about with him 
 some paltry Europeanisms, the signs of his imprisonment in France 
 — a very painful recollection, and one he does not like to name 
 before a stranger. The French have granted him an annual pension 
 of £4,000 ; and one cannot help desiring that the English Government 
 wold allow him something also, to mark their sense of his self- 
 denying devotion to the Christian cause. Mahommedans show great 
 respect to Abd-el-Kader as a sovereign prince, and revere him as a 
 man of sanctity and learning. With a tall majestic figure, and 
 dignified deportment, a noble forehead and keen piercing eyes, he 
 looks like one accustomed only to command. His heart appears to 
 be by nature most tenderly benevolent and kind, and his ear has 
 never yet been closed against the cry of the defenceless and the 
 wronged; how can a really enlightened mind, like that of Abd-el- 
 Kader, feel any sympathy with cruel fanaticism ! 
 
 We rode this afternoon to Dummar, a pretty khan and village 
 on the Barrada, and crossed the bare white ridge by winch all 
 travellers should approach Damascus. Ibrim, our Jewish guide, a 
 model of drowsiness and stupidity, contrived to lose the path, and 
 led us down towards the liver by a way so steep and difficult, 
 it was wonderful we did not break our necks. But we were not 
 disappointed in our object ; for, returning by the ordinary route, 
 hewn through the rocks, the plain and city of Damascus came once 
 more suddenly in sight — a glorious picture, never to be fairly 
 imitated, either by an artist’s pencil or a poet’s pen ; because they 
 are alike unable to depict the soft transparent atmosphere — that 
 glowing halo which makes every landscape beautiful in Syria. We 
 wandered for some time among the shady lanes, with the now 
 loaded boughs of nearly every kind of fruit tree interlacing over- 
 head. How lovely this dense forest of richly varied foliage would 
 appear, but for those frightful walls of mud, which jealously conceal 
 
DAMASCUS. 
 
 397 
 
 so much of its luxuriant verdure ! A few vestiges of antiquity lie 
 scattered here and there ; and we passed a curious old mosque, 
 with whitewashed dome, and a square minaret, very like the steeple of 
 a village church in England. Near the city, some exceedingly pretty 
 villas have been built upon the banks of the river Barrada, among the 
 gardens and the rustic cafes, which are at all times gay with groups 
 of well dressed people. Close to the water is an open level space 
 of ground, where the late guilty Pacha of Damascus, and one hundred 
 and ten miscreants besides, who principally belonged to Moslem 
 families of distinction here, suffered the justly inflicted punishment 
 of death for their abominable crimes. The midday sun was very 
 powerful ; and we thought ice creams, frozen by the snowy “ dew 
 of Hermon,” and which are sold so plentifully in nearly every street, 
 extremely good, and more than usually refreshing. They are so very 
 cheap, that even poor ragged children can afford to buy them. The 
 quantities of raw cucumber and unripe fruit the Damascenes devour, 
 and do themselves no harm, surprises every European ; but such is 
 the effect of constant habit; and each climate has its own peculiar 
 diet. It seems very strange that the loathsome disease of leprosy 
 should still be common at Damascus, especially among the higher 
 classes. This may not be the leprosy of Scripture, but it is said to 
 be a fearful scourge, and never can be cured. Ophthalmia is also 
 prevalent to a great extent ; we meet blind men in strings of four 
 or five together, with nothing but a little stick to guide them ; they 
 venture fearlessly into crowded places, for Orientals have respect and 
 pity towards all personal afflictions, bodily or mental ; and would 
 rather help them out of danger than do them any injury. Imme- 
 diately beyond the cast off clothes’ and arms’ bazaar, where strangers 
 search in vain for the pliant Damascus sword blade of other days, 
 stands — not far from the castle — a prodigious plane tree, the hollow 
 trunk of which has often been inhabited by hermits, and measures 
 
398 
 
 DAMASCUS. 
 
 in circumference about forty feet. The knotted branches prove its 
 great antiquity, but their foliage is no less healthy and luxuriant 
 than that of infinitely younger trees. Damascus once was celebrated 
 for the manufacture of glazed tiles and figured pottery ; the furnaces 
 for making which have recently been brought to fight, beneath a 
 mound of rubbish near the Christian quarter, outside the Bab 
 Shurky. The minaret of the mosque es-Sunaniyeh, erected a.d. 1581, 
 by Senan Pacha, Governor of Damascus, is distinguished by its glazed 
 coating of green tiles, which sparkles like an emerald in the sunshine. 
 But of all the mosques within the city, none are so interesting 
 and beautiful as that of Klialif Waled. A large and splendid 
 heathen temple, which may possibly have been “ the house of 
 Rimmon,” originally occupied this spot, and was converted by the 
 Christians into a magnificent cathedral ; and when Damascus yielded 
 to the conquering Saracens, this church was equally divided, by a 
 solemn treaty, between the Christians and the Moslems. The policy 
 of Klialif Waled of the Omeiyades could not brook so inconvenient 
 a contract, and he haughtily compelled the wretched Christians to 
 submit to his authority, himself assisting in the spoliation and 
 destruction of every vestige of their worship. Having gained entire 
 possession of the building, no labour or expense was spared in 
 rendering this great mosque the most superb in his dominions; and 
 even now, although neglected and decayed, it is said to be almost 
 unequalled by any other Moslem temple in the world. No Christian 
 foot may dare to cross the threshold now, or even venture a passing 
 glance into its cloistered court, without the risk of being insulted; 
 and the outside is so much hidden by bazaars, that a few fragments 
 only of the beautiful exterior are visible. There is, upon the 
 southern side, a richly ornamented triple gateway ; above the central 
 arch of which a cross is sculptured, and the following remarkable 
 inscription, in the Greek language : “ Thy kingdom, 0 Christ, is an 
 
DAMASCUS. 
 
 399 
 
 everLasting kingdom, and Thy dominion endureth throughout all 
 generations ” — a striking record, thus to remain for twelve long 
 centuries unremoved, above the portal of an anti-Christian shrine, — 
 guarded more jealously than almost any other within the vast 
 extended empire under Moslem rule. 
 
 One of the four very oldest cities in the universe — the other 
 three being Hamath, Hebron, and Sidon — few places in the East 
 can claim equality with this still flourishing capital of Syria, in 
 deep historic incident, and strangely marked vicissitudes. The 
 Crusaders never could by any means succeed in capturing the 
 city of Damascus ; which was however burnt completely to the 
 ground, and pillaged of enormous wealth, a.d. 1400 by the 
 ferocious Tamerlane ; who at the same time ordered a most cruel and 
 indiscriminately wholesale slaughter to be made of its inhabitants. 
 But very soon the ancient city rose again ; and then a single century 
 elapsed, and Sultan Selim was its conqueror ; and ever since that 
 period, if we except the short supremacy of Ibrahim Pacha, who 
 opened the fanatical Damascus to the representatives of European 
 powers, the Turks have nominally been acknowledged by the 
 people as their sovereign lords. The Pachalic extends along the 
 
 banks of the Orontes, as far as Hamah on the north, and 
 reaches down to Petra on the south, including Coele-Syria, and all 
 the inhabited districts to the eastward of the Jordan. A very 
 large garrison under the command of a Mushir , or “ Field 
 Marshal,” is always quartered in the citadel ; and the Pacha, or 
 Governor, is invariably chosen from among the highest officers in 
 the empire — his most honourable title being that of Emir 
 el-Haj, or “ Prince of the Pilgrim Caravan to Mecca.” “ The 
 street which is called Straight,” about one English mile in length, 
 is now the only thoroughfare of any size within the city walls ; 
 it was originally much broader than at present ; and the remains 
 
400 
 
 HAREEM OF ABD-EL-KADER. 
 
 of numerous Corinthian columns may be traced, for nearly one 
 third of its extent, to prove that this was in reality the Via 
 Recta of the Roman age — divided into three arcades or avenues, 
 corresponding with three splendid portals at each end. The total 
 population of Damascus, before the recent massacres, was estimated 
 at 150,000 ; of these, according to Mr. Porter, 129,000 were 
 Mahommedans ; 15,000 Christians, and 6,000 Jews ; this reckoning 
 includes the large suburban village of Salahiyeh, in which there 
 are from 10,000 to 12,000 inhabitants, of whom a great majority 
 are Kurds. 
 
 Tuesday , May 21st. — I went this morning, by a previous 
 appointment, to pay a visit to the chief wife of Abd-el-Kader. 
 About a dozen guards, enveloped in the white burnous these 
 Algerines invariably wear, were standing like tall spectres in the 
 gloomy passage. A rather handsome youth, the Emir’s second 
 
 son, immediately came forward, and led me to the hareem 
 through a marble court, adorned with flowery shrubs, and orange 
 trees, and rippling fountains, as beautiful as any I have ever seen. 
 Two very ugly negresses, with fat and grinning faces, were in 
 attendance ; they wore loose dresses of pink cotton, and had 
 each a nose-ring, set with turquoises, passed through one of 
 their wide nostrils. The reception room is very grand and 
 spacious ; but in its decorations there appears an ill-assorted 
 jumble of the East and West. French chandeliers and damask 
 curtains, dauby European paintings, French ormolu and china 
 
 ornaments, were sadly out of place beside bright cotton-covered 
 quilts, the pretty Damascene mosaics, a marble Saracenic fountain, 
 and broad stripes of red, and blue, and white upon the walls. 
 
 The Emir’s wife received me with a melancholy smile, and made 
 
 me sit upon the divan by her side. I thought she had a very 
 kind expressive face ; and though by no means young, her 
 
HAREM OF ABD-EL-KADER. 
 
 401 
 
 features, and especially her eyes, are still extremely fine ; the 
 forehead, nose, and chin are slightly tattooed in a faint blue 
 pattern ; the eyebrows left unpainted, but the eyelashes are deeply 
 stained with khol. Her hair is raven black, without a tinge of 
 grey, but has not the least appearance of being dyed, and it is 
 cut quite short around her pale and thoughtful brow. In stature, 
 she is rather tall, and stout, with an air of quiet dignity about 
 her ; and it is very evident some settled grief has preyed upon 
 her mind for many years. She gave me a most painful insight 
 into the varied trials she has undergone. Her lonely and secluded 
 life in France and at Damascus, which she declares has ruined her 
 health and worn away her spirits, seems sad and pitiable enough ; 
 but the main grievance is something much more difficult to endure. 
 The Emir has, within the last few years, married three young 
 Circassian wives ; a circumstance of which the unhappy Princess 
 freely spoke, with tears of sorrow in her eyes. Yet Abd-el-Kader 
 treats her with affection and respect ; he tells her all his plans, 
 and values her opinion ; probably because she really suits him far 
 the best, from being by birth an Algerian Bedouin like himself. 
 Her hands are beautifully shaped and very small, and not disfigured 
 with the stains of henna ; but her arms are deeply tattooed from 
 the elbow to the wrist, and loaded with gold bracelets. Her 
 dress was muslin, with a tissue scarf tied round her waist, and a 
 white lace veil hung gracefully upon her shoulders, and was 
 caught back over the forehead with a large pink rose. It was 
 a pleasant change from the sad history of domestic woes, to 
 speak with admiration of the noble part which Abd-el-Kader 
 acted, in giving his protection to the Christians, and to observe 
 the brighter smile which played upon the countenance of this 
 poor lady ; who said the fugitives had scarcely room to stand, 
 there were so many of them. The Princess never smokes ; her 
 
 d n 
 
402 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM DAMASCUS. 
 
 only solace seems to be the company of a pretty little grandson, 
 about five years old, who snatched up a great cucumber which 
 was lying near the fountain, and ate it all at once. Coffee, in 
 French cups with saucers, was brought in by the negresses, and 
 handed to us by the beautiful young bride of Abd-el-Kader’s 
 second son. In general, the Circassian women I have seen are 
 very much alike ; painted wax dolls, without the least expression. 
 But this fair girl was something far superior. There was a quick 
 intelligence in those large soft eyes, and a gentle grace pervading 
 every movement, that made her peculiarly attractive, in spite of 
 an extremely unbecoming Turkish costume ; and I really pitied her 
 hard fate in being immured for life within this melancholy 
 hareem ; where she never is allowed to sit, or even speak, in 
 presence of her rigidly punctilious mother-in-law. 
 
 Wednesday, May 22nd. — We left Damascus about half-past 
 six a.m. The atmosphere was rather hazy for the splendid view 
 above Dummar ; but even through a veil of mist that glorious 
 panorama is almost unrivalled as a fair and lovely scene. A 
 small party of French officers, from their station at Khan Merj in 
 the Buka’a, were toiling up the ridge, en route towards the city, 
 as we descended by a break-neck path into the valley. From 
 Dummar we pursued our way, for at least an hour, in a north- 
 westerly direction, winding among bare chalky hills, and traversing 
 a portion of the hard flinty plain el-Sahra. We then turned sharply 
 to the left, and entered a delightful glen, watered by a small 
 branch of the Barrada, the sides of which are clothed with 
 vineyards and fig orchards, becoming gradually more boldly rocky 
 and precipitous, until they reach an elevation of 2,000 feet. 
 These crags are full of ancient sepulchres, and many of them are 
 garlanded with flowers. We came upon the main stream of the 
 Barrada at one of the most beautifully romantic points along its 
 
’AIN FfjEH. 
 
 403 
 
 course. The deep sunk bed of the ravine is filled with fruit 
 gardens, and magnificent groves of walnut and tall poplar trees, shut 
 in by lofty barriers of rock, from 2,000 to 3,000 feet in height. 
 
 The village of Bessima is perched upon a low hill, exactly at the 
 
 junction of two mountain ramparts, and appears almost to overhang 
 the madly rushing torrent, which here has forced a passage eastward 
 through a cleft so very narrow that there is not space enough for 
 any but a goat path on its banks. An aqueduct of former times, 
 
 which was probably intended to convey the water of ’Ain Fijeh 
 
 to Damascus, has been tunnelled through the cliff, and now serves 
 as a communication between the villages of Bessima and Ashrafiyeh. 
 The valley winds considerably, and thus affords an endless variety 
 of landscape, each moving picture of the diorama adding its own 
 peculiar beauty to the whole. We reached ’Ain Fijeh at eleven 
 A.M., and rested half an hour beneath the shady boughs of wahiut, 
 apricot, and fig trees — all laden heavily with fruit, still green, 
 though fully formed. The figs of this locality are celebrated, 
 even at Damascus, for their superior size and flavour. Orchards 
 are climbing up the mountain steeps ; and vineyards have been 
 planted upon terraced heights, which from below seem scarcely 
 accessible to human feet, and spread over an immense extent of 
 ground. Pomegranate hedges are now covered with bright scarlet 
 blossoms ; the walnut trees have grown to a prodigious size ; and 
 the gigantic poplars shoot upwards from among them, like grand 
 cathedral spires. The little hamlet is a poor and wretched place, 
 contrasting miserably with the matchless grandeur of its scenery, 
 and the unrivalled bounties which Nature has so liberally bestowed 
 upon the soil. The only pretty thing about this Moslem village 
 is the cemetery, with its neatly whitewashed graves, and a tiny 
 flower-bed on the top of every one of them. The fountain issues 
 from a narrow cavern, beneath a shelving limestone cliff, and 
 
 D D 2 
 
404 
 
 WADY BARR AD A. 
 
 through a very ancient archway, with tremendous impetuosity, and 
 a most deafening roar. Foaming and dashing for about a hundred 
 yards, over some prostrate ruins and sharp, rocky ledges, the rapid 
 current opens out more widely, and falls into the Barrada. 
 Immediately above the arch, and standing upon a small platform 
 very massively constructed, are vestiges of an ancient temple, 
 supposed to be of Koman date ; and close by there are remains 
 of a still older building, which may possibly have been erected for 
 the idolatrous Baal worship of the Phoenicians. Tall trees have 
 pushed their roots between the large hewn stones, their branches 
 dripping with the boiling torrent’s spray, and mingling with the 
 snowy foam below ; while other trees are bending to the stream on 
 either side, and overarch its waters with a canopy of green. Soon 
 after we had left ’Ain Fijeh, the valley became broader, the 
 mountain boundaries were less precipitous, and the belt of verdure 
 was more widely spread. Beyond two villages, called Deir Mukurrin 
 and Kefr ez-Zeit, we suddenly turned NNW. ; and on our right 
 rose lofty cliffs, as high and nearly perpendicular as those in Wady 
 Bessima. We rode past Kefr el-’Awamed, “Village of the Columns,” 
 distinguished by a large ruined temple on the height above it; and, 
 crossing to the right bank of the Barrada by a bridge, we reached 
 the modern Suk, the representative of Abila, the ancient capital of 
 Abilene — of which province Lysanias was tetrarch, when St. John 
 the Baptist first began his public ministry. The rocky mountain 
 to the left of Suk is covered with inscribed tablets, and pierced 
 with numerous sepulchral caves ; some of the latter are adorned 
 with columns and carved doorways. Just where the river makes 
 a sudden bend in cutting through the eastern ridge of anti-Lebanon, 
 we saw extensive traces of the former city ; but not a single 
 building, or even the substruction of an edifice, can be clearly 
 discerned. The gorge is here extremely narrow. We crossed the 
 
ZEBDANY BLUDAN. 
 
 405 
 
 river by a one arched bridge, the cliffs being scarcely a hundred 
 feet apart, and towering upwards to the clouds. High up the 
 mountain on the left, a road has been cut through the solid 
 rock, for a distance of two hundred yards : a tablet bearing record 
 to the fact that this was done by order of the Roman legate, 
 Julius Yerus, during the reigns of Marcus Aurelius and Lucius 
 
 Veras. Below this excavated road are ruins of an aqueduct, in 
 
 some parts hewn, in others tunnelled in the rock, with here and 
 there a covering of large flat stones. The path was very tortuous, 
 until we left the glen, and entered the fine valley of Zebdany, 
 
 from whence the river Barrada derives its highest source, in a 
 
 small reedy lake. The village of Zebdany is situated at the north- 
 western corner of the plain, embowered in fruit gardens and 
 walnut groves, and, like the generality of villages in Syria, it looks 
 to most advantage from a little distance. While our people were 
 preparing for a halt, and finding there was time enough to spare, 
 we rode an hour farther to Bludan ; which has always been the 
 favourite summer residence of Europeans from Damascus, on account 
 of its extreme salubrity. It stands upon a verdant plateau, one 
 
 thousand feet above Zebdany, and with the highest peak of 
 anti-Lebanon rising up behind it to a height of seven thousand 
 feet. The handsome country residence of the British Consul, and 
 another house belonging to the missionaries, the last of which 
 had been most kindly offered for our occupation, were last year 
 totally dismantled by the Moslems, and nothing but the outer 
 walls are standing. I never saw more pretty home-like lanes 
 than those which wind along this mountain side ; the hedgerows 
 so luxuriantly green, except where masses of wild roses, pink and 
 white, adorn them. The extensive prospect which the village of 
 Bludan commands is singularly beautiful. In front, the snowy crest 
 of Hermon rises majestically above a vast assemblage of much lower 
 
 D D 3 
 
406 
 
 THE ANTI-LEBANON. 
 
 mountains, which enclose the fertile plain of Zebdany. We saw 
 remains of an old church, and also a few shattered columns belonging 
 to some other building. The steepest hills are thickly clothed with 
 vineyards and groves of mulberries, and planted everywhere with 
 many kinds of fruit trees, and tiny rills and picturesque cascades 
 are sparkling in all directions through the richly varied foliage. 
 As we descended by a very rugged path towards our camp, we 
 heard the cheerful sound of tinkling bells, and saw large flocks 
 of goats belonging to the villagers, returning homeward from their 
 mountain pasture grounds. 
 
 Thursday , May 23 rd. — Our course, immediately on starting, lay 
 up a boisterous winter torrent, tributary to the Barrada, and 
 which takes its rise from near the little hamlet of ’Ain Hawar. 
 The valley of Surghaja, now lay before us, the lower part of 
 which is stony, and completely uncultivated. This plain is three 
 miles long, by one in breadth ; running due north and south, 
 like that of Zebdany, between the east and western ranges of the 
 anti-Lebanon. The Moslem village of Surghaja is beautifully situated 
 at the north-east extremity ; with its high mountain background, and 
 the rich groves and smiling meadows at its foot, in striking contrast 
 with the stern, barren heights above. Whenever we looked back, 
 Mount Hermon was the prominent feature in our view. The 
 snow still lay upon each mountain top, and even mingled with 
 the trees and bushes on the lower slopes ; the hedges bloomed with 
 dog roses, hawthorn, and white cistus. We found the peasantry 
 extremely civil ; occasionally one of them approached us with a 
 handful of green corn, or any other produce that was con- 
 veniently near, saying it was an offering of their “ first fruits ; ” 
 which, of course, we should have thought a very pleasing and 
 Scriptural illustration of a time-honoured custom in the East, but 
 for that eternal backsheesh slily peeping out from under it. 
 
APPROACH TO BAALBEK. 
 
 407 
 
 We saw some herds of tolerably fine cattle ; and large flocks 
 of sheep, with very thick white fleeces and enormously fat tails ; 
 and splendid goats, in most extraordinary numbers, several of which 
 had only just been shorn of their long silky hair ; these animals 
 do ample justice to the abundant pasturage of the anti-Lebanon 
 glens. The goats were perched in groups, or singly on the rocks, 
 or browsing in the valleys with the cows and sheep, or watering 
 with them at some limpid stream, or lying down to rest beneath 
 a clump of trees. The landscape seemed to vary every moment, 
 but all the while retained a cheerful homeliness, that made one 
 for a time forget the real distresses of this sunny land. We kept 
 along the course of a small rivulet, which flows northward through 
 the valley from Surghaya, until it turned into the Nahr Yafufeh ; 
 a mountain brook, descending from the right, by a wild narrow 
 pass, and falling into the Litany. We crossed the Nahr Yafufeh 
 by an old Roman bridge, above the point of junction, and turning 
 down the wady for about an hour to the right, and passing near 
 the ruins of a small temple, we ascended several very dreary 
 slopes, down which we plunged into deep valleys on the other 
 side, and rode along uninteresting uplands. The only villages 
 that seem worthy of remark upon this route, are those of Neby 
 Shet — “ Tomb of the prophet Seth ” — Bereitan, and Taiyibeh ; 
 beyond the last named village are traces of an ancient Roman 
 road. The distant view embraced the valley of Surghaya, and the 
 eastern range of anti-Libanus ; the verdant plain of Coele-Syria ; 
 and Gebel Sunnin, rising in hoary dignity from the grand chain of 
 Lebanon. We descended very gradually into the Buka’a, and first 
 gained sight of Baalbek from the south-west, near the quarries ; 
 instead of coming too abruptly upon the ruins, as we did before, 
 and which materially spoiled our earliest impression of their real 
 grandeur. At four f.m., we reached our camping ground above the 
 
 1) L> 4 
 
408 
 
 BAALBEK. 
 
 wretched modern town. The massacres extended even here ; and 
 a detachment of Turkish soldiers has remained at Baalbek since 
 that time, quartered within the now dilapidated barracks built by 
 Ibrahim Pacha. Pour or five Christians only, from about two hundred, 
 were actually destroyed, the remainder having saved their lives by 
 flight ; but neither Druzes nor Metawileh had any share in these 
 particular atrocities, which appear to have been perpetrated by the 
 Sultan’s troops alone, who plundered the inhabitants of everything 
 they found worth stealing, but did not take the trouble of demolishing 
 their houses. 
 
 Friday , May 24$. — We left our tents soon after dawn of day 
 and visited the ruined temples. It was a glorious sight to see the 
 sun arise, and cast the golden splendour of his earliest beams upon the 
 six majestic columns, the sole survivors out of fifty-four, which formed 
 the lofty peristyle belonging to the Temple of the Sun. Those pillars 
 
 still stand proudly erect, amid the general desolation all around — 
 
 although the base of many others may be seen, built up within 
 the present outside wall, when Baalbek was turned into a fortress 
 for Crusader, Saracen, and Turk. This famous group of edifices, 
 whose bare materials are so wonderfully massive, that human force 
 alone could never have displaced them, were built upon an artificial 
 platform of stupendous masonry, constructed over three long vaulted 
 passages, and were approached by a gigantic portico, with a square 
 chamber at each end, from whence two staircases gave access to 
 a porch upon the north side of the pile. Beyond this porch is 
 a large vestibule, originally hexagonal, and lined with noble columns, 
 but sadly fallen and decayed ; and beyond this hall of entrance is 
 
 the great court or quadrangle, four hundred and forty feet in length, 
 
 with deep recesses, richly sculptured at the sides, adorned in front 
 with porphyry and granite columns, and each of them containing 
 several niches to hold statues. It is very difficult to form a just 
 
BAALBEK. 
 
 409 
 
 idea of the relative proportions of this spacious court, the ground 
 within its area having gradually risen to a height of twenty feet 
 at least. A double colonnade, which ran across the centre, was 
 removed to build a smaller temple ; and during the latter days 
 of the Roman Empire, Theodosius overthrew this mighty fane at 
 Heliopolis , and converted it at once into a Christian church. Passing 
 still farther southward from the quadrangle, the two great temples 
 stand before us on a broad open space. There now remains but 
 a mere fragment of the larger building; namely, the six Corinthian 
 columns, tapering upwards to a height of nearly seventy feet, with 
 their exquisitely carved capitals and entablature, and which occupy 
 a higher platform on the right ; but it is believed this stately edifice 
 was never quite completed. The smaller temple is in wonderful 
 condition, although without a roof, and many of its eastern columns 
 have either fallen to the ground, or have lost their perpendicular, 
 and recline against the wall. Upon the western side, the peristyle 
 appears almost uninjured ; its ceiling is beautifully sculptured in 
 hexagonal compartments, representing heads of heathen deities in 
 very high relief. The massive Cyclopean platform, with its bevelled 
 masonry, upon which these buildings were erected, would seem 
 to be most probably Phoenician ; but this magnificent temple is 
 supposed to date its origin from the reign of Antoninus Pius ; and 
 was dedicated to all the gods of Heliopolis, with Baal as supreme. 
 Three rows of columns at the east end once formed the portico, 
 within which is the celebrated gateway, most gorgeously sculptured ; 
 with its monolithic sides forty-two feet high, and twenty-one feet 
 wide. The lintel is constructed of three large blocks of stone ; 
 
 but a tremendous earthquake shock, which rent the temple wall 
 not very many years ago, has caused the central piece to slip down 
 several inches; and in this shattered state, the splendid portal will 
 perhaps remain for future ages, much as we see it now. This 
 
410 
 
 BAALBEK. 
 
 falling soffit is enriched with a gigantically proportioned Roman 
 eagle, in perfect preservation, holding long twisted wreaths of flowers 
 in liis beak, and a caduceus in liis talons ; these garlands are 
 gracefully supported at each end by flying genii. The splendid 
 Saracenic mosque has sadly fallen to decay ; although the outer 
 walls in many places are entire, and it contains some noble columns 
 of Egyptian granite and the finest porphyry. Standing about three 
 hundred yards apart from all the rest — amid old broken stones, 
 mean hovels, and the little gardens of the modern Baalbek — is 
 another temple, shaped apparently like a starfish, although really 
 circular ; richly ornamented, and surrounded by a peristyle of 
 Corinthian columns, six in number; while the entablature which 
 these support, recedes in a deep curve between them. This building 
 once was covered with a vaulted roof, and during the last century 
 it was used by Greek Christians as a place of worship. It is very 
 small, the interior of the cefla measuring only thirty-eight feet in 
 diameter ; and being now entirely abandoned, it will doubtless soon 
 become an undistinguishable heap of ruins. There is a noble fountain 
 of the purest water, half a mile distant to the eastward, the stream 
 from whence flows straight to Baalbek, and is bordered by tall 
 poplar trees, and beautifully green meadows, dotted with the double 
 red anemone, all along its course. We rode for half a mile towards 
 the west, to see once more the limestone quarries, from whence 
 those ponderous blocks were hewn, which measure severally sixty- 
 two, sixty-four, and sixty-six feet long, by fifteen feet in height, 
 and thirteen in breadth, and gave its name — “ Trilithon ” — to 
 the great Temple of the Sun ; forming the central portion of three 
 tiers along the west side of the foundation platform. Within the 
 quarry, hewn ready for removal, is another block, still larger 
 than the rest, and measuring sixty-eight feet long, fourteen feet 
 deep, and sixteen broad. The numerous brooks and springs which 
 
411 
 
 THE BUKA’A. 
 
 in this neighbourhood give rise to the Litany, produce abundant 
 vegetation; the soil is wonderfully rich, and fields and fruit gardens 
 yield annual stores with comparatively very little labour in their 
 cultivation. Eeturning to the ruined temples, we struck from 
 thence diagonally across the plain of the Buka’a, in a direction 
 NNW. ; and in an hour and twenty minutes we turned aside into 
 a stubble field, to have a nearer view of the isolated Corinthian 
 column, whose name and history no one now can ascertain. It 
 does not occupy the centre of the plain, but stands much closer 
 to the foot of Lebanon than to that of anti-Lebanon ; and it is 
 supposed that there was formerly a statue on the top. This lonely 
 pillar measures sixty feet in height, exclusive of its base and capital ; 
 the shaft, five feet in diameter, consists of fifteen stones, and stands 
 upon a pedestal of steps, round which a tortoise of unusually large 
 size was crawling. The capital appears considerably decayed, but 
 otherwise this column is almost entirely uninjured. We saw a very 
 small amount of tillage upon this section of the plain, or scarcely 
 met a single human being; and yet, could labourers be found, the 
 land itself would readily produce a hundred fold. Within another 
 hour we came to Deir-el-Ahmar, a small wretched hamlet, situated 
 at the base of a low ridge of Lebanon, and containing ruins of a 
 small Christian church. We then commenced a very gradual ascent, 
 which lasted for at least three hours ; the snow clad mountains 
 towering grandly before us, their hoary summits mingling with 
 the white fleecy clouds that seemed to rest upon them. Our path 
 wound easily and pleasantly through charming glens, and over steep 
 acclivities of rock, while the higher we ascended, the more gloriously 
 the view became expansive to the north and south. The scenery 
 was altogether lovely, and very different from any we have lately 
 seen; each hill and dale was covered with flowering hawthorn, 
 pink and white, dwarf oak and other bushes ; and there was a 
 
412 
 
 ’ain ata. 
 
 manifest increase of rural life as we proceeded, which made the 
 journey very interesting ; and proved that general security in Syria had 
 been sought among the mountains, but was banished by oppression 
 from the plains. A few olive trees and corn-fields occasionally 
 appeared ; and many rustic villages, which looked extremely pretty 
 from a little distance. Innumerable mountain streams, increased 
 by melting snow, flowed copiously from the heights into the valleys, 
 and often fell from rock to rock in sparkling cascades. ’Ain Ata, 
 where we halted for the night, is a small wretched village, nestled 
 in a romantic glen, sunk deeply between the central and the lower 
 ridge of Lebanon; it takes its name from a fine spring of water, 
 cold as ice, and beautifully clear, which issues from beneath a cliff, 
 high up the mountain side; and fed by other streamlets, it leaps 
 and dashes into the ravine below. Close to the fountain are some 
 ruins ; and a large grotto, which appears to be partly artificial, is 
 quite full of human bones and skulls. The entrance to this cavern 
 was formerly concealed by unhewn stones, which still remain upon 
 the spot, although thrown out of their original position. The village 
 is at present peopled by Latin Christians, fugitives from Bsherreh 
 who of course are all miserably poor. Their priest, who seemed 
 to be a zealous, simple-minded man, requested we would give him 
 money towards buying candles for their little chapel, and offered 
 to conduct us to the “ Cedars ; ” but our dragoman would not agree 
 to this arrangement, for untold reasons of his own ; and while 
 professing great anxiety to meet our wishes, he gained his point 
 at last, and took another guide. 
 
 Saturday , May 25 th . — We felt extremely cold all night, and 
 rain poured down continually in heavy showers ; while Paolo and the 
 servants hardly had a moment’s rest, for fear our tents should suddenly 
 be overturned. We had encamped in the most sheltered place that 
 could be found ; ’Ain Ata being occasionally subject to terrific squalls, 
 
LAKE LEIMON. 
 
 413 
 
 which sweep across the mountain tops, and through the narrow valley 
 with great impetuosity. Soon after we commenced our journey, 
 the sky became more clear than in the early morning, and the rain 
 completely passed away ; we thus were better able to endure a 
 keenly cutting wind, which blew with violence all day, and seemed 
 to come from every quarter. For two long hours we had a rough 
 and tiresome ride along the lower mountain ridge ; the tortuous 
 wady lying far beneath us on the right, until we reached its 
 termination in the pretty little lake Leimun. There are extensive 
 ruins here partly submerged ; and a large modern village, also called 
 Leimun, is situated on the eastern bank. Just opposite a splendid 
 cataract, half hidden amid clouds of snowy foam and glittering 
 vapour, rushes madly down the mountain side into the lake, and 
 rudely tears the otherwise calm surface of its waters. For the next 
 hour of a particularly steep ascent, the scenery was ever-varying 
 and always beautiful. Mount Hermon raised his venerable head 
 above all other towering barriers on the south ; the whole of 
 Coele-Syria, with its mighty walls of boundary on either side, lay 
 stretched before us to the eastward; and not far distant to the west 
 rose Gebel Mukhmel, the highest mountain peak in the vast range 
 of Lebanon. The shepherd’s pipe was heard at intervals ; for each 
 acclivity along our route was speckled with large flocks of sheep 
 and goats, browsing at will upon the bushy pasturage, that springs 
 up everywhere among the rocks and stones, and shows the natural 
 capabilities of the soil. When once we gained the summit of this 
 rocky pass, we entered upon a wide uneven plateau, bleak and 
 dreary beyond all conception. There was no shelter from a piercing 
 wind, and the poor baggage mules stumbled and fell down in deep 
 and treacherous snow drifts, through which we very often were 
 compelled to pick our way. Occasionally the jaded animals shook 
 off their heavy loads, which were, however, very soon replaced. 
 
414 
 
 AULEII. 
 
 At last the Mediterranean appeared in sight ; the cutting breeze 
 which for a little while had been almost resistless, abated by degrees, 
 and the air became less chilly and benumbing. We wrongly fancied 
 that our guide had missed the route : the Latin priest at ’Ain Ata 
 having given the utmost length of this day’s journey at six hours; 
 moreover, telling us that there would be no snow of any consequence 
 to delay our progress; in which idea he certainly was very much 
 mistaken. The sun was fast declining while we wandered up and 
 down through very slippery paths, which ran along the brow of 
 dizzy overhanging cliffs ; all the more dangerous because the mules 
 and horses were completely tired out, and could hardly stir a step. 
 There was no alternative but to pitch the tents on swampy ground, 
 with little rills of melting snow under our feet. 
 
 Monday , May 21th . — The early mornings at our last two days’ 
 encampment were extremely cold and comfortless ; as might have 
 been expected in a spot so highly elevated, and where no trees of 
 any kind, nor even large-sized rocks were to be found. We took 
 a hasty breakfast in the open air, for when the sun had fairly risen 
 the temperature was delightful; and after the first evening of our 
 arrival we had no reason to complain of damp. By an exceedingly 
 precipitous and very rugged pathway we descended to the charming 
 village of Auleh, where are a few remains of ancient date among 
 the modern houses. We met with several of the peasantry, well 
 clad and with bright cheerful faces, leading their flocks and herds 
 to pasture on the neighbouring hills. Some men were lighting 
 fires to boil a quantity of goats’ milk in large iron pots for making 
 cheese. A beautifully picturesque cascade bursts out from underneath 
 a mountain clilf, dancing and foaming wildly among the rocks and 
 stones and then descending to the valley in a full and rapid stream, 
 which turns a rustic flour mill. It was really a pleasure to look 
 around upon this thriving little territory, ruled in comparative freedom 
 
AULEIT. 
 
 415 
 
 by a native prince, and left unscourged by avaricious Turkish pachas 
 The walnut trees have grown to a prodigious girth, and throw 
 out goodly branches. In many parts the steep acclivities are regularly 
 terraced, and mulberry trees are planted on them to a very great 
 extent. The potato plant is also much cultivated here, and we 
 saw large fields of it in nourishing condition upon the lower slopes. 
 Zellah, the Sheikh or Emir of Auleh, has a comfortable house, and we 
 waited there for half an hour, until he could accompany us to Afka, 
 where he has lately purchased a considerable quantity of land. We 
 thought him a most favourable specimen of a Syrian prince ; extremely 
 handsome, very courteous and obliging in his manner, and far superior 
 in intelligence to those by whom he is surrounded. We were very 
 glad to hear of his increasing prosperity ; in proof of which he is 
 at present building a substantial residence, with double windows, 
 and a balcony in front. His wealth is principally derived from 
 breeding horses, and the produce of his cattle, sheep, and goats. His 
 rich silk under garments were almost hidden by a black cloth cloak, 
 with wide and hanging sleeves ; and he was armed with a long 
 sword, lance, and dagger. He rode a beautiful grey Arab mare, whose 
 flowing mane and tail were black and glossy to perfection. The 
 saddlecloth was of crimson velvet, handsomely embroidered ; the 
 bridle was adorned with splendid silver mountings; and from the 
 head stall hung several long red silk tassels, to keep away the flies. 
 The mare was closely followed by a pretty little foal. The Emir’s 
 son, a fine tall boy about twelve years old, was mounted on a 
 donkey; but an attendant rode behind on horseback, and carried 
 across his shoulders a double-barrelled gun. The population of 
 Auleh is altogether Maronite, at present amounting to five hundred 
 men, who are capable of bearing arms. There are two churches 
 in the village, and one of them is provided with a belfry ; but a 
 third and larger place of worship is now in process of erection. 
 
416 
 
 JISR EL-HAJR. 
 
 The priests wear long black robes of serge, with a scarf tied round 
 the waist, and a globe-shaped turban, very smoothly and artistically 
 folded ; the whole dress black, and of the same material. We saw 
 the public oven, a very primitive concern indeed, it is simply made 
 of common clay, conical in form, and left open at the top ; but 
 rude as Syrian ovens may appear, the bread they bake is excellent 
 when hot and fresh, although it will not keep a single day without 
 becoming like a piece of leather. 
 
 In less than half an hour after leaving Auleh, we came to 
 Jisr el-Hajr , the natural “Bock Bridge,” deservedly considered one 
 of the greatest marvels in the Lebanon. The scene is wonderfully 
 grand, and its beauty is enhanced by an extraordinary variety of 
 colour in the rocks, contrasted with their snowy summits, and the 
 vast profusion of wild flowers and creeping plants. Here is the 
 famous Neb' a el-Lebben , “Fountain of Milk,” one of the main 
 sources of the Nahr el-Kelb, or “Dog River,” which rushes madly 
 from the summit of Sunnin, in three tremendous cataracts. Forcing 
 its way through a gigantic limestone cliff, it falls with deafening 
 tumult into a boiling cauldron, amid white sheets of foam, immediately 
 above the bridge, which spans the impetuous torrent, just where 
 it springs into the chasm, by an oblique and rounded arch — 163 feet 
 wide and eighty feet in height — with natural buttresses at either end. 
 A deep cave is underneath, where a poor shepherd family resides 
 occasionally, in the very midst of all this roaring noise. The cliffs 
 are dotted here and there with excavated tombs ; and two large 
 caverns, one of which is pierced high up the cliff, exactly above 
 the chasm, were used as Latin oratories in bygone days. To the 
 westward are some groups of ruins, varying very much in their 
 construction ; and of whose history or origin but little can now 
 be traced. We crossed the bridge by a broad roadway leading over 
 it, and rode for half an hour along the valley of the Kelb, until we 
 
* 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 wwasirr of mmt 
 
 
lift LI8P&HY 
 
 of m 
 
 WIWVERSITV OF l| imp 
 

FALLS OF AFKA. 
 
 417 
 
 reached the Neb' a el-Asal, or “Honey Fountain,” another source 
 of the Dog River, which starts up from a deep recess among the 
 mountain rocks. In twenty minutes more we had arrived at the 
 great falls of Afka, the old Aplieca , which so nearly retain their 
 ancient appellation in modern Arabic. The village is romantically 
 situated, a few hundred yards distant from the fountain, among 
 fruit gardens, large groves of mulberries, and shady walnut trees ; 
 and previous to last year’s calamities it was peopled by a very savage 
 race of the Metawileh. Their Christian neighbours took advantage 
 of the general anarchy to destroy these hereditary enemies, and 
 seized upon their land ; the whole of which has lately passed into 
 the hands of Zellah, Emir of Auleh. The mountains to the eastward 
 of this wild rocky glen rise up in a stupendous semicircle, nearly 
 one thousand feet in height ; the sides are almost perpendicular, 
 but tufts of prickly oak and many other shrubs have taken root 
 within the cracks and crevices, and pleasantly relieve the eye by 
 the rank luxuriance of their foliage. The chief gush of water is 
 from the dark wide mouth of an enormous cavern,* overhung with 
 maidenhair and ferns ; but there are four cascades in all, which dash 
 and pour among the rocks, beneath great masses of white foam, 
 and nurture vegetation with their glittering showers of spray. The 
 ruins of a temple, dedicated to Venus, still remain beside this famous 
 source of the Adonis, now called “Nahr Ibrahim.” We returned 
 towards the Bridge of Stone along the latter valley, which affords a 
 sternly grand variety of landscape, even wilder than the romantic 
 scenery of the Nahr el-Kelb. The Emir positively declined accepting 
 any present; nor would he leave us until we broke up our encampment. 
 
 * At midsummer, the current sometimes shrinks into a very narrow channel ; and 
 it is possible to penetrate within the cave to a considerable distance, by the aid of 
 torches. It is even said that there are fragments of a former sanctuary in this 
 cavern. 
 
 E E 
 
418 
 
 VALLEY OF THE KADISIIA. 
 
 He seemed quite distressed that we could not wait for two hours 
 longer ; as he wished to send off one of his retainers to his pasture 
 grounds, that he might present us with a fine lamb from thence. 
 For several hours our route to-day has led through the magnificent 
 ravine of the Kadisha, with its snowy peaks and broken precipices 
 on either side ; its steep acclivities, laid out in richly verdant terraces ; 
 its mountain streams and waterfalls, and pretty scattered villages ; 
 and the picturesque old convents here and there, half-hidden in some 
 sheltered spot, or perched like eagles’ nests upon the summit of a 
 beetling cliff. The soil is wonderfully productive ; but there are 
 not sufficient labourers to cultivate the ground, except in isolated 
 patches. Occasionally the “ Great Sea ” appeared in sight, with the 
 dark brown rocks and yellow sands upon the coast, and the seaport 
 towns of Tripoli and Batrun. We passed the celebrated convent 
 of Kanobin, the usual residence of the Maronite Patriarch ; and 
 which looks nearly inaccessible from a distance, and to be almost 
 suspended in mid air above the right bank of the Kadisha. The 
 neighbouring hills and valleys teem with vineyards and mulberry 
 groves, their variegated foliage contrasting beautifully with the 
 stern grey barren crags, and still unmelted snow ; and rustic 
 hamlets are nestled quietly among the rocks and trees, while other 
 villages are built high up the mountain sides, upon the very brink 
 of yawning chasms ; and two of these, Hasrun and Hadshit — with 
 an abyss between them, descending to one thousand feet in depth — 
 are, notwithstanding, in such close proximity, that their inhabitants 
 can easily converse from place to place across the narrow dell. 
 The monks are busily employed in agriculture, and one of them 
 was goading on a pair of oxen at the plough. Upon our left, 
 within a very deep recess among the higher peaks of Lebanon, 
 grows in conspicuous loneliness, a dense dark mass of green ; our 
 guides soon pointed to it as the venerable grove of “ Cedars ” we 
 
BSHERREH. 
 
 419 
 
 have long so very much desired to see. We were compelled to ford 
 the boiling torrent of the Kadisha, the sacred river of the Moslems, 
 with no small risk and difficulty. Our dragoman threw up both his 
 arms, and looked the very image of despair, watching in speechless 
 agony the staggering mule that carried his canteen, and which fell 
 down at last in the very middle of the stream. We next passed 
 over a rude bridge, constructed merely of large trunks of trees laid 
 close together, with earth rolled firmly over them. Below this spot 
 two roaring cataracts unite their rush of waters, and tumble headlong 
 down the bank to join the river. We have encamped upon an 
 open space of ground near Bsherreh, one of the loveliest villages 
 in all the range of Lebanon. The convent bells are summoning 
 the people to their evening prayers. The houses, which are widely 
 spread along a very steep acclivity, are in miserable condition; but 
 they are tliickly interspersed with lofty pines and mulberry trees, 
 and booths for rearing silkworms, and pretty little mills for grinding 
 wheat, with rocks of all imaginable forms among them; and far 
 as we can see are bright green pasture lands, and waving corn-fields ; 
 orchards, groves, and vineyards — with running brooks and sparkling 
 fountains everywhere, hke streaks of burnished silver. The potato 
 plant is cultivated in the gardens here to a very great extent ; but 
 it is only just appearing, and not half so forward as at Auleh. 
 The population of Bsherreh is entirely Maronite ; and, in point of 
 agriculture, they are equally industrious and successful with all the 
 other mountaineers at the west side of the Lebanon. Southward of 
 the village is a very curious old convent, called Mar Serkis ; which 
 clings so closely to a broken cliff, that at first sight the edifice 
 appears to form a most essential part of it. The Sheikh has come 
 with half a dozen followers to pay a ceremonial visit to our camp. 
 
 Tuesday , May 28th . — Our rest was last night very soon disturbed ; 
 the rain had fallen now and then in showers throughout the day, 
 
 E £ 2 
 
420 
 
 BSIIERREH. 
 
 and still continued at intervals when the sun went down. Whether 
 the tents were properly secured at first I cannot tell ; but they proved 
 unable to resist the violence of a sudden squall, which came upon us in 
 an instant from the mountains overhead. Great was my astonishment, 
 to be awakened out of sleep by the sound of a most awful crash 
 close by ! The tent pole fell against my bed ; the table, and nearly 
 everything that lay upon it, overturned upon me, and prevented 
 all attempt to rise ; but the large washing bason, full of water, 
 fortunately made a flying skip, and emptied the chief part of its 
 contents upon the ground. Unable to get up, I seized the pole, 
 
 round which my saddle bags and saddle had been placed, and 
 
 held it firmly with both hands until assistance came, for which I 
 had not very long to wait. My husband’s tent was torn up by 
 the roots, and whisked away, just as we see an errant umbrella in 
 
 a gale of wind ; leaving him wrapped up in blankets, like an Egyptian 
 
 mummy lying swathed upon a bier. The tent belonging to our 
 dragoman and servants was also overthrown ; while glass and china, 
 broken into shivers, furniture and clothing, pots and pans, were blown 
 about and scattered far and near. Paolo sobbed and cried as if 
 his heart would break, but soon put all to rights again ; although 
 it was impossible for anybody to sleep, as the wind did not in the 
 least abate its fury until the morning dawned ; and at sunrise, all 
 was calm and bright once more. We crossed a foaming rapid 
 torrent, the upper stream of the Kadisha, and clambered up the 
 mountain by a zigzag pathway ; so tremendous in its steepness, that 
 in any other country than S3oia it would probably be trodden by 
 wild goats alone. But notwithstanding the fatigue and labour of 
 the route, the panorama was magnificent ; for the glorious ravine 
 of the Kadisha opened out continually before us, extending all the 
 way to Tripoli, with its round crested wall of mountains on the 
 southern side — the loftiest summits wreathed in perpetual snow, 
 

 m LIBRARY 
 OF THE 
 
 iiriversm w 
 
421 
 
 “ THE CEDARS.” 
 
 except during the very hottest part of summer. An hour and a 
 half from leaving Bsherreh brought us to the “ Cedars.” This 
 beautiful time-honoured little forest, a mere speck of green amid 
 surrounding barrenness, occupies about three acres of an undulating 
 knoll, six thousand feet above the level of the sea, and one thousand 
 feet below the highest summit of the mountain range. I never 
 can forget the delightful coolness of that hallowed grove, when first 
 we stood under shelter of its spreading branches ; and left quite 
 suddenly the hard naked rocks, scorched by the dazzling glare of 
 a fierce sunshine, with scarcely a stunted bush, or the smallest tuft 
 of vegetation visible for miles around. The “ Cedars ” are of many 
 different growths, and it is utterly in vain to speculate upon the distinct 
 antiquity of some of them. The tall and graceful stature of the 
 younger trees, with their dark leaved fanlike boughs ; the enormous 
 trunks, some of them more than forty feet in girth, the gnarled 
 and widely spreading sombre branches of the aged patriarchs, which 
 speak with silent tongue of other days — must always forcibly remind 
 the stranger of their world renowned and ancient glory ; and one 
 can fully comprehend the reason why, for countless centuries, pilgrims 
 from every land on earth have been attracted to this lonely and 
 sequestered group — sole remnant of those noble “ Cedars which the 
 Lord hath planted ” upon the “ sides of Lebanon.” A hideous 
 Maronite chapel has been roughly built in the very centre of the 
 grove ; and to make its presence infinitely more unwelcome, we were 
 told that several of the finest trees had been cut down to yield 
 the quantity of wood required in its construction. There is a small 
 Maronite village in the neighbourhood, and the people flocked around 
 us, with demands for backsheesh , or “ Hasnal,” as they say in this 
 part of the mountain. The high and tapering horn which used to 
 be so generally seen upon the heads of Druze and Maronite women, 
 has almost disappeared of late ; and a much shorter ornament, in 
 
 E E 3 
 
422 
 
 eii’den. 
 
 shape like an inverted tumbler, and made either of silver or of tin, 
 is now adopted in its stead. This more convenient substitute is 
 placed above the right side of the brow ; and over it the wearer 
 twists or simply throws her long white drapery or veil. These women 
 often have a string of little coins dangling loosely upon their 
 foreheads; they also wear three very long and thick silk cords, 
 hanging from their hair behind, each with a heavy bell-shaped silver 
 ornament at one end; and some of them have silver anklets. The 
 Maronites are seldom unprovided with a rosary, which they seem to 
 think a claim for sympathy from European travellers. Very much 
 did we regret to leave the Cedars, and return into the heated 
 atmosphere and pitiless blaze of midday sunlight. We could not 
 but admire the agricultural industry of the mountaineers ; for even in 
 the loftiest spots, wherever soil can be retained, are fields of corn 
 and fruit gardens; and sometimes pretty villages, or lonely convents, 
 may be found at most surprisingly high altitudes. We halted for 
 a little while near a majestic waterfall, a main tributary of the 
 Kadisha, roaring and dashing upon the rocks, and throwing out 
 great sheets of foam, all the way downwards to the valley. The 
 prospects were magnificent, until the last hour of our ride to Eh’den, 
 when we entered a thick cloud of vapour, and could not see a yard 
 beyond our horses’ heads. Eh’den is very pleasantly situated upon 
 a gentle slope, 4,750 feet above the sea; the inhabitants are Maronites, 
 and appear to be an exceedingly prosperous and thrifty race of 
 people. We have nowhere seen so many handsome men and women 
 all together, with fresh good humoured faces, and such numbers of 
 plump healthy looking children ; and everybody well and neatly clad, 
 in gay contrasting colours. Each acre of the land is turned to 
 profitable account by these industrious villagers ; there is no lack 
 of water, and the very steepest hills arc regularly terraced from their 
 bases upwards, great part of which has been laid out in vineyards, 
 
eh’den. 
 
 423 
 
 while the rest has been divided into fig orchards, by hedges of 
 the beautiful pomegranate ; or planted with apricot and other fruit 
 trees, most splendid walnut trees, and large tracts of mulberries for 
 feeding silkworms. Some guns were fired in honour of our arrival, 
 and awoke the finest mountain echoes we have ever heard, surpassing 
 in their full and lengthened grandeur even those which we occasionally 
 called forth within the valley of the Nile. Eh’den can boast a few 
 remains of ancient buildings ; and the modern houses have a 
 comfortable appearance, compared with those of Syrian villages in 
 general. There is a convent here, and a large school for boys ; 
 and a new and handsome chapel is in progress. We saw no instances 
 of abject poverty; for those who have themselves abundance, are 
 compelled to help their poorer neighbours ; and in winter, the climate 
 is so very cold at Eh’den, that the people are obliged to go away, 
 and take up their abode for several months upon the plain near 
 Tripoli. This happy district has the inestimable privilege of being 
 governed by a native prince, the Emir Yusef, who reigns supreme 
 at Eh’den with almost undisputed sovereignty. My husband found 
 him seated on his divan, surrounded by a multitude of armed 
 retainers, who from time to time approached and kissed his hand 
 respectfully. He is a young man, with very gentlemanlike address 
 and pleasing manner, and far superior in education to the generality 
 of Oriental princes; he speaks a little French and Italian, and takes 
 a liberal and clear sighted interest in European politics. Although 
 the Emir Yusef is undoubtedly the principal leader of the Maronites, 
 he wisely keeps aloof from all inducements to become an open 
 partisan ; nor does he relish the announcement winch has just arrived 
 from Tripoli, of a visit from the French General and his staff to- 
 morrow morning. 
 
 Wednesday , May 29 th. — Whether from real indisposition — 
 caused by the unusual circumstance of forty days continued rain — 
 
 E E 4 
 
424 
 
 PLAIN OF TRIPOLI. 
 
 for fear of fatal consequences, or merely from a prudent stroke of 
 policy, it is impossible to conjecture, but we are told the Emir 
 has been very suddenly taken ill. By his desire, the secretary 
 came into our camp before we started, to make apologies for his 
 master. The Maronite chief priest also came down to visit us ; 
 he was a fine old man, with long white beard, and had the huge 
 black globe-shaped turban that these mountain clergy always wear. 
 
 He speaks Italian pretty well, and is justly proud of the great 
 
 beauty of his native village, Eh’den. Our route lay down the rugged 
 side of Lebanon ; and soon we met the Emir’s dreaded guests, accom- 
 panied by some other Syrian Prince, who rode a magnificent grey 
 mare, and was attended by about a dozen armed and mounted 
 followers. As we descended to the plain of Tripoli, the skilful 
 
 agriculture of the active mountain peasantry became exceedingly 
 
 remarkable. Great rocks were broken up, or had been altogether 
 cleared away, and the debris made available for building solid 
 walls. Innumerable winding streams, fringed by the beautiful oleander, 
 floAv along the mountain sides, and fertilise the soil ; and bubbling 
 fountains spring from nearly every cliff, and then rush down into 
 the valleys with a roaring noise. The hills are often clothed with 
 the white cypress or the lofty pine, and the scent of flowers is 
 everywhere delightful. The bushy hedgerows are one mass of 
 blooming sweetbriar, varied by wild jasmine and gum cistus ; and 
 hardly a single shrub or piece of rock is left without a graceful 
 wreath of lilac, white, or pink convolvuli. The villages and convents 
 are all romantically placed ; and with the cultivation that surrounds 
 them, they add immensely to the natural beauty of the scenery ; 
 while the monks appear to labour in the fields as diligently as 
 any of the fellalnn. The picturesque hamlet of Zugharta, witli a 
 sparkling rivulet flowing through the midst of it, is spread over the 
 surface of an undulating little plain — extremely fertile, and very 
 
TRIPOLI. 
 
 425 
 
 thickly planted, especially with numbers of most splendid carob 
 trees, equal to any we have seen in Palestine. Whatever may occur 
 hereafter, these hardy Maronites will not so easily be disarmed 
 again; for scarcely one of them will venture now to gather even 
 his own mulberry leaves, or pursue the other duties of his daily 
 toil, without a loaded musket slung across his shoulders, to be ready 
 at a moment’s call. An hour from Zugharta we forded a very 
 rapid stream, called Nahr Rasha’in; and descended into the vale 
 of Tripoli through the long ridge of Gebel Turbul. Seen from a 
 distance, the town of Tripoli reminds one greatly of Damascus ; 
 for terraced roofs and swelling domes, and graceful minarets, rise 
 from the midst of gardens and a dense forest of plantations ; while 
 fountains bubble up, and waterbrooks are murmuring everywhere. 
 But in spite of all this loveliness, and the rich luxuriance of its 
 verdure, Tripoli is not desirable for a summer’s residence. I believe 
 there is no place in Syria where malignant fevers are more prevalent ; 
 and Europeans can seldom breathe its damp and heated atmosphere 
 with impunity for any length of time. The town is built on both 
 sides of the Kadisha, just where that noble river issues from the 
 lowest roots of Lebanon. The houses are of stone, and there is an 
 air of quaint antiquity in the streets, which wind and turn under 
 a succession of groined arches. Half a mile distant from the city, 
 we passed a now deserted building, formerly inhabited by dervishes ; 
 the site was admirably selected, within the grand ravine of the 
 Kadisha, across which a very handsome aqueduct is carried. A 
 ruined castle stands upon the south bank of the river, erected in 
 the twelfth century by Count Raymond of Toulouse. Mr. Porter 
 estimates the present population of Tripoli at 10,000 Moslems, and 
 3,000 Greek Christians ; the value of this ancient city as a seaport, 
 dates its origin from the palmy days of the Phoenicians, and during 
 the long period of Greek and Roman sway, it bore the name of 
 
426 
 
 TRIPOLI. 
 
 “ Tripolis.” We are perforce encamped in the most unhealthy spot 
 that could be found, I should imagine ; for our tents are pitched 
 in an unoccupied corner of a Moslem cemetery, to the westward 
 of the town. Many of the graves are solidly constructed of the 
 hard white limestone of this country ; and within the neat enclosures 
 of hewn stones which have been built round several of these tombs, 
 large trees are planted, and spread their leafy branches over them. 
 The most important sepulchres are generally embellished with nicely 
 sculptured fountains, the effect of which is not a little spoiled by 
 sheds of coarse brown matting, to protect the mourners from the 
 sun ; small groups of white robed females may be seen here and 
 there. We rode about two miles from Tripoli, to what is called 
 “The Landing Place” — el-Mina — a small seaport town standing 
 upon a sandy promontory, shaped like a triangle, great part of which 
 is covered with extensive ruins, and whose apex stretches out into 
 the sea. There is a line of forts along the coast, and the harbour 
 is protected by some rocky islands. In commerce, Tripoli seems 
 to be yearly losing ground; and has, undoubtedly, been made to 
 suffer by the rising importance of Beyrout. We saw the Jewish 
 “ money changers ” seated at low tables in the open streets, with a brace 
 of loaded pistols laid beside the gold and silver coins, which were 
 piled in httle heaps before them. The orchards at el-Mina, and 
 on every side surrounding Tripoli, are unsurpassed in beauty and 
 variety, even by the far-famed gardens of Damascus ; it was curious 
 to observe, in one instance, both a fig plant and a vine entwined 
 among the branches of a mulberry tree. Booths for rearing silk- 
 worms are set up in all directions, and the mulberry groves are 
 more extensive than any we have seen elsewhere ; we bought a 
 basket of the fruit from a young peasant girl. Close to our little 
 camp, we observed a man employed in winding silk ; the cocoons 
 had previously been thrown into a large boiler, and his work went 
 
THE LEBANON. 
 
 427 
 
 on with great rapidity and ease, while all the time he turned 
 incessantly with one foot a horizontal wheel. 
 
 Thursday , May 3(M. — A handsome well-dressed boy, about 
 eighteen or twenty, whose father was last year massacred at Baalbek 
 by some Turkish soldiers, has asked for the protection of our caravan 
 until we reach Beyrout, where he confidently expects to find some 
 useful occupation, as a means of earning his support; and, at the 
 present juncture, he is very likely to succeed. At seven a.m. we 
 left the burial ground at Tripoli ; and so eager were we to escape 
 from its most foetid atmosphere, that we had not patience to await 
 the packing up of furniture and loading of our mules. Crossing 
 the vale of the Kadisha by a broad and well-constructed modern 
 causeway, paved with hewn stones compactly placed together, we 
 halted in a splendid grove of trees — a melange of magnificent 
 acacias, of noble walnut trees, and patriarchal olives — interspersed 
 with brilliant masses of pomegranate in full blossom. The day was 
 very hot, although we were so near the sea, and had the benefit 
 of a refreshing breeze. Our route, soon after leaving Tripoli, led for a 
 little while along the sandy coast ; and then we clambered up and down 
 stupendous cliffs, and traversed a wide extent of undulating ground, 
 carpeted with grass and a very great variety of lovely flowers. 
 We met some droves of larger cattle than any we have yet seen 
 in Syria ; and the hill sides were speckled with fine flocks of fat- 
 tailed sheep and silky goats. Verdure extended up the heights of 
 Lebanon, and mingled with the yet unmelted snow drifts and the 
 vapoury clouds. A great proportion of the land is under tillage; 
 and yet there are not many villages in sight, and we wondered 
 where the labourers could be found to sow and plant in such 
 abundance. The apricots are almost ripe, and hang upon the branches 
 in enormous quantities. I certainly agree with those who say that 
 they remind them of the golden apples of Arabian story. At Enfeh, 
 
428 
 
 batrOn. 
 
 a small village, placed near the extremity of a jutting headland, 
 there are considerable ruins, some of which appear to be remains 
 of churches. Two hours from thence we crossed a very steep 
 and rugged promontory, with a Maronite convent perched upon 
 the highest summit. At one part of the ascent, a deep and narrow 
 chasm has been spanned by nature with an arch of stone ; the 
 same in miniature as the beautiful rock bridge at Neb ’a el-Leben. 
 We descended the precipitous pathway to the southward, and sud- 
 denly a fine old ruined castle came in sight — the former stronghold 
 of a much dreaded robber band of the Metawileh. The line of 
 coast on both sides of Batrun, or “ Botrys ” of the old geographers, 
 is very rocky, but extremely picturesque ; and the town contains 
 some well-built houses, with a Christian population of about three 
 thousand souls, who chiefly earn their livelihood by rearing silk- 
 worms ; and who are now rejoicing in the unprecedented returns 
 of silk the Syrians have already reaped this year. A very little 
 child seemed spell-bound by our strange appearance. Her hair was 
 long and hung down each side of her face ; it was kept straight by 
 twisted pieces of lead wire, with tiny leaden pendants at the ends. 
 Close to our camping ground, within a stubble field, we passed three 
 ancient cisterns. So long as daylight lasted, the people of Batrun 
 flocked round us in great numbers, and became extremely trouble- 
 some ; and the swarms of flies were still more disagreeable, com- 
 pelling us to stop up every crevice in the tents. 
 
 Friday , May 316/. — We waded through deep sand, and climbed 
 upon some jagged rocks, to look at the old harbour of Batrun ; 
 and then commenced our journey towards the south, which continued 
 very near the coast all day. The scenery was magnificent ; and 
 many a dizzy pathway have we trodden among the rocks and stones, 
 with the snow-capped summits of Mount Lebanon on our left ; and 
 far beneath our feet we looked upon the quiet waves, which laid 
 
JEBEIL NAUR IBRAIlfM jfiNEII. 
 
 429 
 
 their fringe of foam so gently on the yellow sand, — or dashed 
 against the broken cliffs, which rise out boldly from the calm blue 
 sea, sometimes in single masses of the most fantastic forms. Ainshit 
 is a large village built on rising ground, with ancient ruins and a 
 few cavern tombs in the adjacent rocks ; and half an hour from 
 thence we came to J ebeil, the “ Gebal ” of Scripture. In this city 
 originally dwelt a people called the Giblites, to whom Joshua refers 
 as forming part of the inhabitants of Lebanon ; and who were 
 afterwards employed by Hiram, King of Tyre, in preparing materials 
 for the Temple at Jerusalem. It is, moreover, the reputed birthplace 
 of Adonis. The Greek name was “ Byblns and the extent and 
 magnitude of its remains, with the numerous granite columns that 
 lie strewed about the fields or in the harbour, or are embedded in 
 the terraces, and built into the modern walls and houses, attest the 
 great importance of Jebeil in former ages. The most remarkable 
 ruin is a high tower or citadel, whose substructions are composed 
 in the Phoenician manner, of enormous bevelled stones. Two hours 
 beyond Jebeil, the swiftly flowing stream of the Nahr Ibrahim, or 
 “Adonis,” still “runs purple to the sea” — particularly after very 
 heavy rain or stormy weather, when a quantity of dark red earth 
 along its banks is torn away, and carried downwards by the rapid 
 current. We crossed this classic river by a noble bridge of stone, 
 built with a single arch ; and there are ruins of an aqueduct, which 
 once conveyed the water of Nahr Ibrahim all the way to Jebeil. 
 Our route continued two hours longer on the rocky coast, before 
 descending to the charming little bay of Juneh. A handsome Roman 
 bridge, now falling to decay, spans with one arch a pretty mountain 
 streamlet. Our tents are pitched on level ground, within a stone’s 
 throw of the shore. The town of Juneh with its pleasant gardens 
 is beautifully situated, and spreads out wide along the steep acclivity 
 which almost shuts in the bay — whose northern entrance was 
 
430 
 
 NAUR EL-KELB. 
 
 formerly commanded by a castle, now in ruins, which stands upon 
 the point of a projecting rock. Close by the Roman bridge we 
 noticed an immense cavern, which appeared to be in great part 
 artificial; and half-way between the mountains and the sea we saw 
 a granite pedestal, and the lower portion of a column. We had 
 just reached our tents when Salvo, our Maltese servant, came to 
 tell us that the dragoman was seized with sudden illness, and had 
 taken refuge in a khan, about an hour behind. Immediately my 
 husband and myself rode back, and found poor Paolo in a dreadful 
 state, trembling all over, like a man stricken with the palsy. He 
 said that he had thoughtlessly eaten a small piece of bread, containing 
 an admixture of some intoxicating herb ; the day was overpoweringly 
 hot, and he had previously complained of being unwell. Happily 
 he very soon recovered, and was able to ride forward to the camp 
 before the sun went down. The summer is now too far advanced 
 for travelling by day with any comfort ; only this very morning 
 one of the horses in our caravan died on the journey from exhaustion 
 and the excessive heat. The khans along this route are very numerous, 
 and mark the different periods of their erection ; some of them are 
 merely fragments of old walls. 
 
 Saturday , June ls£. — We started very early to avoid the scorching 
 midday heat as much as possible ; and we were less exposed than 
 usual to the blazing glare of sunshine, as the road led generally 
 between impenetrable thickets of the prickly pear, which hedge 
 in the gardens and plantations, as well as several large fields of 
 melons, cucumbers, and tobacco. About an hour from Juncli we 
 crossed by a small bridge over a splendid waterfall ; and then we 
 forded near its mouth that famous Syrian river, called the “Nahr 
 el-Kelb,” the Lycus Flumen of the old geographers. I do not 
 know why Paolo was so anxious to avoid the handsome modern 
 bridge which spans the stream a few yards higher up ; for the horses 
 
BEYROUT. 
 
 431 
 
 hardly could maintain their footing in the rapid current. We were 
 determined not to lose this opportunity of seeing the curious sculptured 
 figures and inscriptions on the rocks — Roman, Persian, Egyptian, 
 and Assyrian — or the remains of two very ancient roads, the latest 
 of them made by command of a Roman Governor of Syria, during 
 the reign of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus ; a fact which an inscription 
 has recorded here, in Latin letters beautifully cut. Two hours along 
 the gracefully curved sandy beach brought us to Nahr Beyrout, 
 the Magoras of Strabo and of Pliny, which flows into the sea by 
 the traditionary place of St. George’s encounter with the Dragon ; 
 and having crossed the river by a well kept bridge of seven arches, 
 constructed or at least repaired by Fakr ed-Din, we found ourselves 
 among suburban gardens, and surrounded by some very pretty country 
 houses. Another hour, and we had taken rooms at the Hotel de 
 Belle Yue, about a mile below the town, upon the Ras Beyrout — 
 with a glorious sea view from all the windows, balconies, and terraces ; 
 and a most delightful freedom from the suffocating heat and stifling 
 dust inland. Steamers ply briskly to and fro, and the little harbour 
 is quite full of shipping ; while boats of every size are passing and 
 repassing as the day goes by. The combined “ Pleet of Observation ” 
 looks terribly imposing ; all the men-of-war being ranged in line — 
 English and French, Turkish and Russian — with their prows turned 
 menacingly towards the coast, and firing their great guns continually, 
 the boom of which rolls back in lengthened echo from the rocky 
 sides of Lebanon. 
 
 Whatever vestiges remain of old Berytus of the Greeks and 
 Romans, may be found in scattered fragments on the shore, or 
 “ cast into the sea,” like those of ancient Tyre. But for the gorgeous 
 and ever-changing hues of atmospheric colouring, and the inconceivably 
 beautiful variety of all that Nature can unite from sea and land to 
 form a perfect picture of the most surpassing loveliness, Beyrout 
 
432 
 
 ABEIH. 
 
 can scarcely be supposed to have a rival on the whole surface of 
 the globe. 
 
 Tuesday , June ith. — By the advice of Rev. Dr. Thomson we 
 made a very pleasant excursion to the American Missionary Station 
 at Abeih, in the Lebanon. Our horses, hired for the occasion only, 
 proved incorrigibly lazy ; and ten long hours, instead of six or seven, 
 as we had hoped, were occupied in going and returning upon the 
 route alone. A great part of the way was by the staircase road to 
 Deir el-Kamar, made last year by the hands of Christian refugees ; 
 a large proportion of the money sent out to this country from the 
 English and American “Syrian Relief Fund,” having been expended 
 in wages to the starving multitudes who were glad to find employment 
 in this useful work. The extensive panorama for miles and miles 
 along the rock bound deeply indented coast, which this new road 
 commands, is from all points very beautiful, and varies every moment. 
 We certainly enjoyed at least one great advantage by our rather 
 tedious detention on this journey ; as we saw the many different 
 tints of sunlight to perfection, changing and shifting with each 
 passing hour, from the clear brightness of early morning, to the 
 softly transcendent golden glory and deep shadows of departing day. 
 
 We experienced a very kind and hospitable reception from Rev. 
 Mr. Calhoun and his excellent lady, who have remained twelve 
 years at Abeih, a mountain village delightfully situated, and with 
 fine bracing air the whole year round. Four pretty children, their 
 little faces beaming with good health and cheerfulness, seem never 
 to have known what the word “ illness ” means. During last year’s 
 disturbances, this amiable family was not in any way molested, 
 nor do they apprehend annoyance for the future. The influential 
 Druzes, they described as being extremely well-disposed towards the 
 Franks, and courteous in all their dealings with them. It is most 
 probable that affairs would go on peaceably enough, were the 
 
BEYROUT. 
 
 433 
 
 Turkish soldiers less offensive and tyrannical in their conduct ; and 
 yet the Syrian people do not now appear to be sufficiently advanced 
 in civilization, to profit very much by European rule. It is particularly 
 gratifying to observe how thoroughly Mr. Calhoun has made himself 
 respected at Abeih ; and this morning he has been the means of 
 bringing to deserved punishment three of the soldiers quartered here, 
 who had savagely maltreated a poor Christian girl.* The missionary’s 
 house is very nice in its arrangements, and admirably suited to the 
 climate, for cleanliness and good order can make almost everybody’s 
 dwelling comfortable ; but I am bound to say that neither in this, 
 nor any similar case, that I have ever seen in Eastern lands, can 
 I recall one single instance of the luxury and extravagance we so 
 often hear about at home, when foreign missions are the subjects of 
 uncharitable criticism. There is a school for boys and girls, and a 
 neat chapel with its little belfry, making a compact group of buildings 
 altogether. At Shumlan, not far distant from Abeih — and where 
 for several years has been established a large British factory for 
 silk — Mrs. Watson, an English lady, has another school, entirely 
 for girls, whom she endeavours to instruct as teachers, and to train 
 up in various household duties, as well as to improve them by the 
 ordinary modes of education. There is also at Beyrout a Mrs. 
 Thompson, who has established a good school for Syrian children, 
 upon a more extended scale ; and since the massacres, their number 
 has increased considerably. Of Bev. Dr. Thomson’s labour, as a 
 zealous missionary during thirty years, the good result is evident 
 in a gradually increasing taste for useful information, and a higher 
 class of literature. The American printing press, which was formerly 
 directed by Dr. Eli Smith, is now under the able management of 
 
 * These criminals were publicly shot, in presence of an assembled multitude, 
 many of whom were Moslems. 
 
 F F 
 
434 
 
 BEY ROUT. 
 
 Dr. Van Dyck, an Oriental scholar no less distinguished than his 
 predecessor. 
 
 We met with numerous parties of French troops, and trains of 
 loaded baggage mules to-day en route from Deir el-Kamar, to join 
 their large encampment in the pine forest near Beyrout — preparatory 
 to the “ evacuation ” of Syria. 
 
 Thursday , June 6th. — It is surprising that this delightful place 
 should be considered unhealthy at any season of the year. The 
 heat in summer may be very great ; but the soft balmy atmosphere 
 is always buoyant notwithstanding, and the purest mountain air can 
 be attained within an hour’s pleasant ride. The gay bright town 
 itself, which rises from the water’s edge, adorned with palm trees, 
 domes, and minarets — embellished also by the rapidly extending 
 suburbs — is built upon the hilly slopes of a triangular-shaped 
 promontory, the apex running far into the sea ; and the noble ridge 
 of Lebanon towering majestically upwards from its base, like a 
 vast amphitheatre of stupendously bold precipices, dark woods, and 
 wild ravines, — dotted here and there with villages and fortress 
 monasteries, — while lofty snow-capped summits veil their faint 
 outlines in the light fleecy clouds that seem to rest continually 
 upon them. 
 
 The French are busily embarking ; it is said that they have 
 sold some splendid Arab horses at fabulously low prices, rather 
 than run the risk of carrying them away. We find the Hotel de 
 Belle Vue cleaner than any other we have seen in Syria ; and our 
 Syrian landlord, Nicola Bassoul, is particularly attentive and obliging. 
 The heat, both day and night, continues to increase, but does not 
 overpower one like the pitiless glare of an Egyptian October ; and 
 our apartments open into a charming arched corridor, the views 
 from which are most magnificent, and where one can enjoy refreshing 
 coolness at all hours of the day. The British Residency is a hand- 
 
SUK MEIIAYL. 
 
 435 
 
 some building, and very near to it is another mansion, lately occupied 
 by Lord Dufferin, and taken, for the present, by Admiral Mundy. 
 British and Russian naval officers assemble frequently at this hotel ; 
 and among the former we have met a few old friends. 
 
 Sunday , June 9th. — A rather strong scirocco wind has blown from 
 the south-west since yesterday; but we were able to avail ourselves 
 of Captain Farquhar’s kindness, in inviting us to attend divine service 
 on board the flag ship “ Hannibal.” The clean white jackets that 
 our British sailors always wear in a hot climate, make one wish 
 they were allowed to leave their beards and moustaches unshaven. 
 
 Tuesday , June IDA. — Nicola Bassoul escorted us to-day to 
 Suk Mehayl, a Christian village of the Lebanon, which looks down 
 into the lovely bay of Juneh, and where we found in almost every 
 house, a very simply constructed loom, for weaving that variety of 
 
 silk and golden stuffs, for which Damascus, until recent times, was more 
 
 ♦ 
 
 especially remarkable. The people seem to prosper in proportion 
 to their industry; but their wealth is not entirely dependent upon 
 making pretty tablecloths and slippers. The plantations of mulberry 
 trees appear to be unusually extensive ; immense numbers of cocoons 
 are lying in the sun, instead of being boiled in cauldrons, to kill 
 the chrysalis ; and nearly all the villagers are now employed in 
 winding off the silk. We had a very pleasant ride through shady 
 lanes and byways, and along the yellow sands, and up and down 
 the jagged rocks about the Nahr el-Kelb. The sun was very hot, 
 and the Mediterranean looked as deeply blue, and almost as unruffled 
 as the cloudless sky ; excepting where the waves were gently rippling 
 amid wreaths of foam upon the sandy shore, or dashing with the 
 roll of distant thunder on the rocks, which they have worn into a 
 thousand strange fantastic forms. I rode a very pretty Arab mare, 
 belonging to our landlord ; but with the extremely tiresome penalty 
 of being followed by its foal. We halted for a little while, where 
 
436 
 
 FAREWELL TO SYRIA. 
 
 a few fishermen had just been hauling a large net out of the sea ; 
 as we hoped to find in it some curious specimens of the finny tribe ; 
 and everybody was sadly disappointed, although, of course, for very 
 different reasons, to find that nothing had been caught except one 
 luckless httle flying fish. 
 
 Fuad Pacha has taken up his quarters here, and daily drives 
 about the city and its environs, wherever it is possible for carriages 
 to go. We meet him now and then in a small britchka, accompanied 
 by the present Governor of Beyrout. His recent energetic measures 
 
 appear to make him greatly feared, as well as cordially detested, 
 
 by all parties. It is true that he has raised enormous sums of 
 
 money at Damascus from the Moslems, and that much of it has 
 been already spent in aiding the poor Christian refugees ; but it 
 is also said the “ lion’s share ” was given to the Turkish soldiers, who 
 are often left three years without receiving a single para of their 
 scanty pay. 
 
 Sunday, June 1 6 th. — This morning, by the kind invitation of 
 
 Captain Forbes, we were able to attend divine service on board Her 
 Majesty’s ship “Renown.” With a bright clear sky above our 
 heads, and a fiercely burning sun, a very heavy swell was rolling 
 in the harbour — unpleasantly reminding us that we are now upon 
 the eve of a five days’ voyage, from Beyrout to Malta. The American 
 missionaries have a neatly built chapel in the town, where the 
 Presbyterian service is regularly solemnised every Sabbath Day. 
 
 Once more I bade a long farewell to Syria ; but not without a 
 lingering hope that destiny may some time lead me to her sacred 
 shores again. Alas ! the smoke of blazing homesteads has but too 
 lately risen from her fertile soil, and the blood of slaughtered 
 thousands of her people has not yet been more than very partially 
 avenged. It is our Christian Faith, founded alone upon the Word 
 
CONCLUSION. 
 
 437 
 
 of God, which ventures to believe the happy day draws nigh, when 
 the proud Crescent shall be torn down from every pinnacle, and 
 trampled in the dust ; and in its stead shall wave, from east to 
 west, from north to south, the finally triumphant banner of the 
 Cross of Christ. Then only will the “ everlasting kingdom ” be 
 indeed restored to pardoned and repentant Israel ; and to those 
 “ that fear His name shall the Sun of righteousness arise with 
 healing on His wings,” to bless “throughout all ages” the promised 
 “ Land of Inheritance.” 
 
 LONDON 
 
 PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. 
 
 NEW-STREET SQUARE