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THE 
 
 Motorman’s Guide 
 
 A Practical Treatise on Street Railway Motors. 
 
 Car Wiring. — The Proper Way to Cut Out Motors. — 
 Operation and Care of K Controllers. — Short 
 Circuits and How to Locate Them. — Incan- 
 descent Light Circuits. — Westing- 
 house Motors. — General Electric 
 800 Railway Motor, and Ser- 
 ies Parallel Control- 
 ler, Etc., Etc. 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE ILLUSTRATIONS AND DIAGRAMS. 
 
 By J. W. Gayetty. 
 
 CHICAGO: 
 
 LAI R D <& LEE, 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress in 
 the year 1896, 
 
 By J. W. Gayetty, 
 
 at the office of the Librarian of Congress d% 
 Washington, D. C. 
 
 Copyright 1898, by Wm. H. Lee. 
 
£2f.33 
 
 \ 
 
 ALTRELD HALL STACKS 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Car Wiring 12 
 
 Conclusion 115 
 
 Description First and Second Notches 93 
 
 Description Third Notch 95 
 
 Description Fourth Notch. 97 
 
 Description Fifth and Sixth Notches 99 
 
 Economy is Wealth Ill 
 
 Electric Motor Force, or How Armature Ro- 
 tation is Obtained 48 
 
 General Electric Company’s Series Parallel 
 
 Controller 88 
 
 General Electric 800 Railway Motors 80 
 
 General Information on Westinghouse Motors 53 
 How to Locate Trouble in a Car While Run- 
 ning on the Road 17 
 
 How to Locate Trouble in a Reversing Switch 
 
 and How to Overcome it 24 . 
 
 How to Reverse a Car in Order to Obtain 
 
 Best Effects 26 
 
 How to Increase the Speed of a Motor by 
 
 Changing Two Connections 53 
 
 Illustration of T. & H. Car Wiring, 114 
 
 Information on Incandescent Light Circuits.. 41 
 
 679348 
 
PAGE 
 
 Instructions for Operating and Care of K 
 
 Controllers 22 
 
 Introduction 5 
 
 Information on Open Circuits and Sparking 
 
 Brushes 65 
 
 Points of Interest to All 73 
 
 Points About Motors that Should be Exam- 
 ined Often 30 
 
 Proper Methods for the Government of Mo- 
 tors 103 
 
 Short Circuits — What a Short Circuit Means 
 
 and How to Locate It 34 
 
 Some Questions Which You May be Called 
 
 Upon to Answer . . . 68 
 
 Terminal or Field Wires 16 
 
 The Proper Way to Cut Out Different Mo- 
 tors ... 19 
 
 Westinghouse Fuse Block 61 
 
 Westinghouse Lightning Arrester 62 
 
 Westinghouse Lamp Circuit 63 
 
 Westinghouse Series Parallel Controllers. . . . 106 
 
Introduction. 
 
 In presenting this pocket edition to 
 the public I will say that it has been the 
 author's intention to confine himself 
 exclusively to points of interest to the 
 Motormen of the country, realizing, as I 
 do, that there is not, nor has there ever 
 been, anything written which would dis- 
 close to this class the knowledge they 
 seek. 
 
 In order to do this it is my intention 
 to define everything pertaining to street 
 R. R. Motors in the simplest manner, 
 omitting all algebraic and other terms 
 such as have served in all books 
 previously written, to prevent you from 
 comprehending their meaning. And if 
 strict attention is paid to the teachings 
 
 5 
 
and instructions herein contained, you 
 will be able to withstand the most rigid 
 examination from your Superintendent 
 real or anticipated, as well as to make an 
 intelligible report of the defects and the 
 work to be done on your car and motors. 
 It is not generally known, but it is a fact, 
 nevertheless, that all Motormen on all 
 street railways are to be examined by a 
 State Board of Examiners yet to be ap- 
 pointed by the Governor of each State, 
 as to their qualifications and capabilities 
 to hold the positions they are now filling. 
 
 It stands to reason that those found 
 wanting will have to go, and those who 
 have devoted a little of their leisure time 
 to profitable study, will succeed them. 
 It is in order, right here, to state that the 
 man of influence is going to have some 
 hard studying and become posted, or 
 step down and out, as the pull cannot 
 hold him. He must possess a thorough 
 knowledge of his business, or those who 
 do will certainly succeed him. 
 
 It is indeed necessary to repeat here 
 
 6 
 
that old adage, “a still tongue makes a 
 wise head;” and what is meant by using 
 the saying is, what you learn keep to 
 yourself; or in other words, do not lend 
 your book to anyone, for as the saying 
 goes, “one man prospers by his fellow- 
 man’s downfall.” So do not assist in 
 your own downfall. 
 
 Recognizing the fact that not one 
 Motorman in twenty thoroughly under- 
 stands his motors, I feel that I am giving 
 them great value for their money, and at 
 the same time furnishing them with the 
 means of holding a position on any line 
 they may be employed on. While serv- 
 ing as foreman in different car houses, the 
 author has been able to gain a great 
 many pointers that will come up on the 
 examination of Motormen and conductors, 
 and having possessed these, together 
 with my knowledge of electricity, I feel 
 perfectly safe in stating that they cannot 
 ask you any question that I have not hon- 
 estly and correctly answered in this little 
 book. If you wish to learn the value of this 
 
 7 
 
book, go to your electrician, or man in 
 charge of your motors, and ask him for in- 
 formation, and then, and not until then, will 
 you learn the true value of this book. It 
 has always been understood by all elec- 
 tricians or foremen of car houses; that no 
 information of any importance be given 
 to anyone outside of their class, and con- 
 sequently most men running cars to-day 
 are ignorant of their motors . 
 
 Now that I have dissolved partnership 
 with that class of people, I am at liberty 
 to impart to Motormen and conductors 
 how to thoroughly understand and man 
 their machines, regardless of what my 
 brother electricians may deem fit to say 
 or think about me. I have honestly 
 served my time, and think I have a right 
 to suit my own pleasure in regard to 
 what use I make of my experience. 
 
 Having been a Motorman myself I 
 know how insignificant a man is and how 
 small he feels when running a car with 
 no knowledge whatever of his motors. 
 
 It has been my experience to see hun- 
 
 8 
 
dreds of cars turned in off the road by 
 Motormen who were asked by housemen 
 what the trouble was. Well, of course 
 their answer would be, simply “I don't 
 know.” 
 
 And they should not be held responsi-i 
 ble for what they have had no chance or' 
 opportunity to learn. 
 
 It will be well for me state here that it 
 is the earnest desire of every company 
 owning and operating electric roads to 
 have each and everyone of their em- 
 ployees thoroughly understand the com- 
 plete workings of their motors, for it) 
 would be a saving of thousands of dollars) 
 each year to them. 
 
 On the other hand it is the same 
 amount of money in the different electric 
 companies' pockets to keep the men in 
 ignorance. 
 
 Now, then, you are aware that neither 
 of the companies will protect you in 
 ignorance, so it behooves you to work 
 out your own salvation, and the sooner 
 
 9 
 
you grasp the opportunity, the better for 
 you and your family. 
 
 I propose to write this book just as I 
 .have learned it from actual experience 
 land hard work on motors, and it will be 
 more valuable to you than a book written 
 by highly educated electricians where 
 nothing but highly electrical terms and 
 phrases are used. 
 
 There are a number of such books 
 now on the market that Motormen have 
 bought at fancy prices and after reading 
 they are just as much in the dark as 
 before they read them. In fact they sel- 
 dom look at them the second time, for 
 the simple reason that the Motormen of 
 to-day are totally unprepared for such 
 works, and cannot understand them. 
 
 It is foreign reading to them and was 
 never intended to give them any informa- 
 tion of what they ought to know. 
 Knowing the above statement to be 
 facts, I propose to write this book in 
 plain Motorman’s language, starting in 
 from the very beginning the same as if 
 
 10 
 
you had never seen a car, and carry you 
 right along through, explaining in detail 
 every part of a street car motor, and will 
 confine myself to actual information 
 necessary to the Motorman. 
 
 \ 
 
 11 
 
JL Practical PQotorniaij. 
 
 Gar Hlirirjg. 
 
 It is very necessary that each and 
 every Motorman should thoroughly un- 
 derstand how a car is wired, and then in 
 case one of the connections break, he can 
 readily find it and repair it. You will 
 find in this pocket edition a complete 
 drawing of the wiring of a car with two 
 motors wired in multiple. 
 
 By following very closely the explana- 
 tion here given with your drawing before 
 you, it will be very easy to understand it, 
 and it will enable you to trace your cur- 
 rent from the trolley wire through the 
 different parts of your car to the ground. 
 
 Commencing at the trolley head, or 
 wheel, it is received from the trolley wire 
 
 12 
 
thence down the trolley pole to trolley 
 stand, there you will find the first con- 
 nection made connecting your trolley 
 with the car wire. Your current and 
 wire leads from the trolley stand to the 
 front over-head cut-out box, where two 
 connections are made; crossing same, 
 returns along roof of car to rear over- 
 head cut-out box, where also two connec- 
 tions are found; crossing cut-out box, 
 wire runs down corner post of car to the 
 fuse box with two more connections, it 
 runs to the lightning arrester crossing^ 
 with two connections. 
 
 After leaving the lightning arrester it 
 runs along the flooring of your car to che 
 controller, or resistance coils, which 
 receives it with one connection and dis- 
 patches it with another. 
 
 Leaving resistance coils it runs direct 
 to your field coils through what is termed 
 the end wire, where a connection is made. 
 
 Passing through the field coils it re- 
 turns out of the same through the field 
 
 13 
 
ground-wire where a connection is made 
 with the fields and field ground-wire. 
 
 It next runs direct to the reverse 
 switch; connecting with same it crosses 
 and connects with the positive brush 
 lead, which conducts it to the commuta- 
 tor where a connection is made on to the 
 brush or carbon holder. 
 
 It is then received by the armature 
 from the commutator. Passing through 
 the armature it returns through and is 
 received by the negative brush lead and 
 conducted back to the reverse switch 
 with same connections made as when 
 crossing before. 
 
 Crossing reverse switch, it is received 
 by the motor ground- wire which runs to 
 and is connected on to the front end of 
 motor casing. 
 
 The above is a correct illustration of 
 car wiring and current tracing, and when 
 reading, by frequent reference to the 
 accompanying cut or drawing, can be 
 readily understood. 
 
 The high speed or loop wire takes the 
 
 14 
 
same course as the end wire connected to 
 your controller, with all resistance cut on! 
 it runs direct to the field coils, side by 
 side with your end wire, passing through 
 field coils, returns through and out field 
 ground wire; there is only one field 
 ground-wire and consequently the fields 
 discharge the current received from both 
 the loop and end wire through the same 
 wire. It must also be borne in mind 
 that the field coils receive current from 
 one wire at a time; when receiving from 
 the end wire the loop is cut out, also 
 when receiving from the loop wire the end 
 wire is cut out. 
 
 The current received by the field coils 
 through the loop or high-speed wire 
 returns out the field ground-wire, and 
 runs direct to the reverse switch, cross- 
 ing same, to positive brush lead, thence 
 to commutator, into armature. Out of 
 armature, through negative brush lead, 
 back to reverse switch, crossing to motor 
 ground-wire to the casing on motor. 
 
 15 
 
Terminal or Field Wires 
 
 There are three wires leading into the 
 field-coils, and it is very necessary for a 
 Motorman to know and be able to distin- 
 guish one from another, which is very 
 easily done if you will pay strict attention 
 to the following description. 
 
 The inside wire on each field coil is the 
 end wire. To be more sure and explicit, 
 we will say the wire nearest the gearing, 
 on the opposite motor, is the end wire. 
 The location of the end wire can be more 
 readily understood after we locate the 
 loop and field ground-wire. 
 
 The loop or high-speed wire is the cen- 
 ter or middle wire. The outside wire on 
 each machine is the field ground wire, or 
 the wire nearest the ends of the car. 
 
 By referring to the car-wiring cut with 
 the above explanation you can post your- 
 self thoroughly, and know positively 
 which wires to disconnect in case one of 
 your motors becomes disabled. 
 
 16 
 
How to Locate Trouble in a Car 
 while Running on the Road 
 
 This, perhaps, is the most difficult prob- 
 lem a Motorman is called upon to solve, 
 and one which occurs to him almost 
 daily. It does not matter whether a 
 motor is new or old, there is quite a num- 
 ber of things could happen to it at any 
 moment, and you want to be posted so 
 as to be able to locate and fix it quickly 
 and make time. 
 
 If your car, while on the road, should 
 lose the power, and fail to respond to 
 your -controller, first ascertain if the 
 trouble is at the power station by trying 
 your light circuit. If your lamps light 
 you know the trouble is in your car; such 
 being the case, you will examine the 
 overhead cutout switches, as some mis- 
 chievous person may have thrown one of 
 them off. Finding both switches O. K., 
 examine your fuse, as they often melt off. 
 Finding this O. K., next examine your 
 reversing switch by throwing switch both 
 
 17 
 
ways, as quite often cars will throw the 
 reverse on the center while rounding a 
 curve, especially cars equipped with cable 
 controllers. I have seen quite a number 
 of cars laid out on the road from this 
 cause aloe, the Motorman having exam- 
 ined the car thoroughly, and overlooking 
 this particular part. Finding this O. K., 
 it is then necessary for you to run over 
 all connections, as one of them may have 
 broken off. If you find them all intact, 
 you have performed all the duty that is 
 expected of you, for if the trouble is not 
 found by the above inspection, it lies in 
 your motors, and is beyond your reach, 
 consequently you will not be held respon- 
 sible. 
 
 A Motorman cannot be too thorough 
 in his investigations, for he can easily 
 overlook a broken feed wire, which if 
 found after his reporting everything O. K. 
 would place him in an unfavorable light 
 with the electrician or house foreman in 
 charge. 
 
 It is very easy for every man to famil- 
 iarize himself with every connection on or 
 
 18 
 
about his car, as you have an abundance 
 of time while on the road or at the car 
 house. Practice makes perfect, and if 
 you will study a little along with your 
 practice, you will be rewarded for so 
 doing, as a man who thoroughly under- 
 stands his car and its workings is soon 
 found out and receives more than ordin- 
 ary attention both from his employer and 
 his fellow men. 
 
 The Proper Way to Cut Out Dif- 
 ferent Motors 
 
 There are a great many Motormen who 
 do not know how to intelligently cut a 
 motor out of circuit in case it gets dis- 
 abled, and this information is intended 
 for those who do not know; who have 
 tried to get it in vain. I have seen cars 
 brought in off the road with every wire 
 disconnected that the Motorman could 
 find about the machine. In such cases 
 the men are only guessing at the result 
 
 19 
 
and consequently are scared half to death 
 for fear they have done something that 
 will incur the displeasure of the electric- 
 ian in charge. 
 
 There are different ways of cutting out 
 a motor. . One way is simple and quick: 
 remove the carbons or brushes. But it 
 will be well for me to state that removing 
 the brushes will not be allowed by some 
 electricians, as it is not the safest plan on 
 account of some brush holders coming in 
 too close contact with your commutator. 
 If you can get permission from your elec- 
 trician in charge to cut out a motor by 
 removing the brushes, it would be easier 
 for you and would exonerate you in case 
 of trouble. 
 
 The proper and safest way is to discon- 
 nect the end and loop wires from the 
 terminal board, which makes you abso- 
 lutely safe. This can be done very 
 quickly if you have a small wrench at 
 hand. Remove the small bolts or screws 
 that hold the wires to the field coils or 
 terminal board. After removing bolts or 
 
 20 
 
screws, bend wire back and away from 
 connections, replace bolts and your motor 
 is dead and free from harm. The 
 above method of cutting out a motor 
 only pertains to the general electric 
 system equipped with the rheostat 
 controller, but may be applied to 
 the J controller, providing you are 
 close to the car house and do not have a 
 very great distance to travel, as cutting 
 out a motor equipped with the J con- 
 troller by removing the brushes* your 
 motor in circuit will not respond until 
 the third speed notch is reached, which 
 gives a heavy jerk to your machinery. 
 All controllers on cars equipped with the 
 general electric system are fast being 
 supplanted by their latest type of con- 
 troller, known as form K, and it seems to 
 meet a more universal approval than any 
 other yet devised. The controller known 
 as form K can be used with a single 
 equipped motor if desired, but it has been 
 designed for use where double motor 
 equipments are used. At the base of 
 
 21 
 
each controller will be found two double 
 throw switches, by which either motor 
 can be cut out of circuit. When it is 
 desired that both motors should be in 
 circuit, as is ordinarily the case, both 
 switches should be down. To cut out 
 motor number one (which is motor near- 
 est fuse box) throw up left-hand switch, 
 leaving right-hand switch down; to cut 
 out motor number two (which is the 
 motor farthest from fuse box) throw up 
 right-hand switch, leaving left-hand switch 
 down. 
 
 Instructions for Operating and 
 Care of K Controllers 
 
 When using this controller at one end 
 of the car the position of cut-out switch 
 in the other controller is immaterial if 
 the idle controller is at “off” position. 
 
 The following method will inform you 
 bow to keep this controller in good con- 
 dition. To examine this controller, open 
 
 22 
 
cover, remove bolt with wrench attached 
 and swing around the pole piece of the 
 magnet, which will expose to your view 
 the cylinder contacts, which should always 
 be kept clean. 
 
 The reversing cylinder is also accessi- 
 ble as soon as the cover has been swung 
 open. ^ The cylinder plates and fingers 
 resting on them should be given par- 
 ticular attention, and their surface kept 
 in good condition. A little vaseline 
 should be used on cylinder contacts to 
 prevent them from cutting. All bearings 
 should be kept lubricated. In operating 
 this controller the handles should be 
 steadily moved from notch to notch. The 
 position of cylinder is indicated by a 
 pointer moving over a dial, which is 
 placed on top of controller, and the posi- 
 tion can be felt also as the cylinder moves 
 from notch to notch. The motors are in 
 series, with resistance on first and second 
 points, which should be used only for 
 starting. On fifth point motors are par- 
 allel with resistance. This point is de- 
 
 23 
 
signed merely to smooth action of con- 
 trollers, and should not be used as a 
 running point under any consideration. 
 To secure best efficiency for continuous 
 operation use points 3, 4, 6 or 7, as at 
 these points resistance is entirely short 
 circuited. Observe the above rules and 
 you will have no trouble with this most 
 popular controller. 
 
 How to Locate Trouble in a 
 Reverse Switch, and how to 
 Overcome it. 
 
 In using the rheostat controller, your 
 controlling cable often gets caught on 
 the reversing cable, which throws it on 
 the center, thus breaking the connection. 
 This same trouble is liable to happen on 
 double truck cars. The reversing cable 
 being slack, gets caught on the truck, 
 and when rounding a curve the truck will 
 pull it on the center. A Motorman will 
 do well to watch this closely. 
 
 24 
 
In other and later devices of car con- 
 trollers* the reversing switch is not so 
 liable to trouble; but nevertheless do not 
 fail to examine your reverse switch, in 
 case your car is dead, for ofttimes the 
 trouble lies there. 
 
 Your reverse cable or rods, whichever 
 your car may be equipped with, sometimes 
 become broken or disconnected at the 
 reverse switch, and you are unable to 
 reverse your car with the reversing 
 handles. Should this happen to you, get 
 under your car to the reverse switch and 
 pull it into the desired position with your 
 hands, or perhaps you may have to use a 
 pry to accomplish it. In either case, don’t 
 fail to reverse it, for it will go to show 
 that you understand your business. 
 
 On roads of any length it is necessary 
 for you to know how to reverse your car 
 in spite and independent of your reverse 
 switch. In some cases the reverse contact 
 plates become soldered together, which 
 makes it impossible for a Motorman out 
 on the road to use it in any manner. If 
 
 25 
 
such a case should happen when out on 
 the road, and you could not use your 
 reverse, proceed to disconnect your four 
 brush leads from the brush holders and 
 cross them, which will answer the same 
 purpose as your reverse switch, and will 
 carry you safely to the car house. 
 
 If your car has only one motor, the 
 same rule will work. Cross the brush 
 leads and the car is reversed. This must 
 be practiced only in extreme cases, such 
 as are mentioned above, and must be done 
 correctly. 
 
 How to Reverse a Car in Order 
 to Obtain Best Effects. 
 
 How to reverse your car in case of 
 accidents, to produce the best effects. 
 
 As a general rule a Motorman, while 
 running on the road, is not looking for an 
 accident. In most cases where accidents 
 take place, they come so quickly that the 
 
 26 
 
Motorman is totally unprepared for them, 
 and consequently, before he can grasp 
 the entire situation, he has run into the 
 object in question. 
 
 From experience I have found the 
 following mode of reversing to be most 
 effective: 
 
 When you see that quick action on your 
 part is necessary to avert an accident, 
 which compels you to reverse your motor, 
 first, before pulling your reverse handle, 
 pull your brake on with your right hand 
 as far as it will go with one pull; which 
 being done will retard the momentum of 
 your armature, and will better enable it 
 to receive the current when you throw 
 the reverse. At the same time you pull 
 on your brake, release the current with 
 your left hand. By that time you have 
 your right hand free to throw your 
 reverse. Your left hand being on the 
 controller, you turn on current. 
 
 Turn on very little current, for } r ou can 
 easily turn on too much, which would have 
 the effect of throwing out the breakers at 
 
 27 
 
the house, or blow your fuse. In either 
 case your power is losfc: 
 
 Turning on too much power would not 
 have the desired effect, (if your fuse did 
 not burn out, and the breakers at the 
 power station remain intact)for the simple 
 reason that it would send your drive 
 wheels spinning on the rail without check- 
 ing the momentum of your car. So it 
 stands to reason that the slower your 
 wheels turn, the better service they will 
 render in stopping your car. 
 
 In most cases where accidents cause a 
 Motorman to reverse his car, as soon as he 
 throws the reverse, he immediately turns 
 his controller right on to the loop, which 
 sets the wheels to spinning so fast that 
 his car goes ahead without seeming to 
 mind the reverse. Of course he is at a 
 loss to know why she don’t hold. Some 
 Motormen condemn the car and say it is 
 the fault of the machines, when rightfully 
 the fault lies with them. 
 
 There are extreme cases where a Motor- 
 man does not have evei: time to release 
 
 28 
 
his current. In such cases a Motorman 
 needs no enlightenment. All he can do 
 is to pull his reverse. That will show that 
 he is alive to the situation, and will save 
 being censured by the Superintendent, 
 who would certainly ask him why he did 
 not reverse his car. 
 
 A Motorman who has acted in that 
 capacity for any length of time, has had 
 it thoroughly drilled into him that up to 
 this date, as a general rule, the brakes on 
 electric cars are inadequate in cases of 
 emergency. 
 
 As the lives of passengers as well as his 
 own safety depend solely upon his prompt 
 action, he ought to be exceedingly care- 
 ful, and prompt himself on every detail in 
 connection with his reversing device, for 
 unless you know how to reverse a car you 
 will get very poor results. 
 
 By thoroughly understanding the above 
 method, you will have more chance for 
 safety than if you go at it blind and by 
 guess. 
 
 29 
 
Points about Motors that should 
 be Examined Often 
 
 It is much cheaper to present accidents 
 than to repair damages. The liability to 
 accidents may be reduced and the profits 
 of the road correspondingly increased by 
 careful inspection of the apparatus at 
 regular intervals, and this should be 
 insisted upon. The saving in repairs 
 will more than equal the cost of the in- 
 spection. A Motor man should, on arriv- 
 ing at the end of the road, examine cer- 
 tain parts of his car without fail. To do 
 this correctly, and feel safe when starting 
 on your return trip that everything is in 
 perfect working order, you will first 
 examine your armatured bearings and see 
 that the compound lubricating cups are 
 filled, or enough compound in them to 
 insure their safe running, for it is often 
 the case that armature bearings become 
 hot and melt the compound, which will 
 soon wind you up in a disabled condition, 
 
 30 
 
whereas timely inspection will prevent 
 this trouble. 
 
 The next part to be examined is your 
 carbons or brushes. These very often 
 become broken or cracked, which will 
 cause them to arc, and if they are run in 
 that condition for any length of time will 
 cause your commutator to become so hot 
 that it will short circuit, or may ground 
 your brush holder. In either case your 
 motor will have to be cut out of circuit. 
 
 Brushes should make good contact 
 with the commutator. Reach down and 
 take out each brush in order to ascertain 
 whether it moves freely in the brush 
 holder. They should not bind, as this 
 might cause poor contact. In putting 
 brushes back, get the same brush in the 
 same holder and have the same side up. 
 They will make better contact if put back 
 exactly in the same position as they were 
 found. Notice the temperature of the 
 field coils and armature. A loose or bro- 
 ken connection might interfere with the 
 proper distribution of current between 
 
 31 
 
the two motors. Do not allow the fields 
 or armature on one motor to become 
 warmer than the other motor, for in such 
 case it is doing more than its share of the 
 work. If you cannot remedy the trouble 
 on the road report to car inspector. 
 
 The next part to be examined is your 
 gearings. See that they are not running 
 dry. Examine your wheel boxes, and if 
 you find any of them running hot, lubri- 
 cate them with oil. Next see that your 
 brakes are perfect and that all shoes make 
 good contact with the wheels. Next see 
 that your trolley wheel is true with the 
 trolley wire, and keep the wheel well oiled. 
 The life of a trolley wheel will depend 
 upon the quality of the metal of which it 
 is made and upon the number of miles it 
 travels. New wheels should be put in as 
 soon as the wear of the old ones is suffi- 
 cient to cause them to make a rattling 
 noise when running, and to flash badly 
 when passing the trolley supports. 
 Wheels should be oiled every night or 
 morning, and the Motorman should oil 
 
 32 
 
them during the day if found necessary. 
 The more frequently they are oiled the 
 longer they will last. 
 
 The tension of the springs in the base 
 of the trolley should be sufficient to keep 
 the trolley wheel firmly pressed against 
 the wire at any speed which the car may 
 reach. If there is a flashing between the 
 wheel and wire when the car is running 
 fast, this is caused by the springs being 
 too weak, and they should be tightened. 
 It has been my experience to see trolley 
 wheels become hot, wear off, and drop to 
 the ground, which causes any amount of 
 trouble and annoyance; for in such case 
 the conductor is compelled to mount the 
 roof of the car and hold the trolley pole 
 against the wire until the car house is 
 reached. By timely and frequent inspec- 
 tion this trouble can very often be 
 avoided. 
 
 Motormen having examined their cars 
 as above directed will merit the approval 
 of their superintendent, and have hon- 
 estly discharged the duties of a first-class 
 Motorman. 
 
 33 
 
Short Circuits — What a Short Cir- 
 cuit Means— How to Locate it. 
 
 Perhaps there is no other electrical term 
 so much used as the term short circuit 
 There are a great many Motormen who 
 have heard the term, but have never had 
 it explained satisfactorily. As a conse- 
 quence they call every little trouble that 
 comes along a “ short circuit.” For 
 example, during my employment on one 
 of the most popular electric railways on 
 the Pacific coast, of which I was foreman, 
 I was called out on the road one night by 
 one of the oldest Motormen. On arriving 
 at his car, I asked the usual questions as 
 to what was the trouble. His answer was. 
 “I think there is a short circuit in one of 
 my motors.” I examined the motor and 
 found the feed wire which runs to the 
 controller, burned off. As a matter of 
 fact, his car was dead, and as he didn’t 
 know what else to say in reply to my 
 question, he gave it as his opinion that his 
 car was “ short circuited.” 
 
 34 
 
Now, one would not think that a man 
 who had run a motor for three years, 
 would be so ignorant of his machine as 
 that, but nevertheless it is a fact. 
 
 Now, there are different ways in which 
 a motor can be “ short circuited;” but 
 the term means that the current has been 
 thrown out of its regular channel at some 
 point before reaching its destination. For 
 example, some of the lead wires come in 
 contact with another wire, and the insu- 
 lation becomes worn off, causing a “ short 
 circuit,” and causing your motor to jump 
 and jerk. It is always very easy to locate 
 it, as it will cause an “ arc ” when the cur- 
 rent is applied. Or you may have a short 
 circuit in your armature, which will 
 always show up in the same way. 
 
 You can most always find it by having 
 your conductor apply a little current 
 while you raise the trap-door and watch 
 your motor. 
 
 Such short circuits are generally caused 
 by the insulation being knocked off of 
 one or more of the armature coils at the 
 
 35 
 
point where the wire is bent over the end 
 of the armature core, as it comes in very 
 close contact with the motor frame or 
 case during its rotation, and once it is 
 bare, it takes but a short time to burn out 
 a coil, and sometimes more, which incurs 
 quite an expense to your company to 
 repair it. You should use every effort in 
 your power to prevent it, by releasing 
 your current as soon as a jerk or jump is 
 felt. Bo not proceed until you have 
 found the cause of it. 
 
 Again, if you should run through a 
 pool of water deep enough to come up 
 into your motor case, it will most invar- 
 iably “ short circuit” your motors by 
 making a contact clear around your com- 
 mutator, which is supposed to be insu- 
 lated, one bar from another. So, when 
 you come to a pool of water on your 
 track, always give your car speed enough 
 to carry it through the water by gravity, 
 or release your current before striking 
 the water. Also open your overhead cut- 
 out box thus preventing the current from 
 
 36 
 
contact with the water, and you are usu- 
 ally carried over in safety. 
 
 There are a great many other things 
 which might be mentioned on this sub- 
 ject, but as space is limited, I think there 
 has been enough said to teach you the 
 difference between a short circuit and a 
 feed wire being burned off. 
 
 It comes in line, however, while treat- 
 ing on cc short circuits,” to call your atten- 
 tion to the trouble caused by your cur- 
 rent becoming grounded, which acts in 
 many cases much the same as a short 
 circuit. Ground circuits are even more 
 severe and effectual in causing your car 
 to come to a sudden stop, or blowing the 
 circuit-breaker at the power station, than 
 a short circuit, for if any of your feed 
 wires become bare of insulation, and 
 should come in direct contact with any 
 portion of the trucks, you will experience 
 quite a sudden jar in your speed, which 
 will lead you to think that you have run 
 up against a brick wall, or something of 
 that sort, and at the same time generally 
 
 37 
 
knocks out a circuit-breaker at the power 
 station, and blows the fuse in your car. 
 
 ’In the majority of cases it is not a fre- 
 quent occurrence, but nevertheless it 
 occurs occasionally that your commutator 
 becomes grounded onto the armature 
 shaft. In such cases the motor thus 
 affected will refuse to work. Sometimes 
 it will cause a flash or “ arc,” but in most 
 cases it will just jump and jerk, and you 
 will see smoke arising from your motor 
 casing. 
 
 Should you have a car that is equipped 
 with a single motor, in most cases it will 
 not move when the current is applied, but 
 stand still, and if you should allow the 
 current to remain turned on for a minute 
 or so, you will bo abl6 to smell that some- 
 thing is burning. But in such cases, 
 never try to run your car until you first 
 cut out your motor that is grounded. 
 
 Remember, as I have already explained 
 to you, that while a short circuit is, in 
 some ways, very much like a grounded 
 circuit, and often causes very similar 
 
 38 
 
effects, still they are two separate and 
 distinct interferences, and should be 
 handled with great care, as in either case 
 you are liable to damage your motor ser- 
 iously if you fail to cut out the disabled 
 one before proceeding on your trip. 
 
 Then there is burning out of field coils, 
 which is quite a frequent occurrence on 
 roads where there are heavy grades, or 
 where high speed motors are used. This 
 is caused, principally, by an over-taxation 
 of the fields, which will cause them to 
 become overheated, and this unnatural 
 heat will, in time, cause the insulation on 
 the field wires to become charred, which 
 finally allows the current to jump across 
 from one wire to another, thus causing a 
 short circuit in the field, which will burn 
 it out in short order. 
 
 Now if your motor should show any of 
 the above mentioned disorders, and you 
 are not able to locate it at once, a very 
 quick and reliable way to locate it is by 
 cutting out one of the motors — that is if 
 you have a car equipped with two. After 
 
 39 
 
you have cut one out, try it by applying 
 the current, and if you find that the one 
 you have in circuit refuses to run, or jerks 
 when the current is applied, then it is 
 reasonable to believe that the trouble 
 lies in that motor, and that the other one 
 is all right. Cut out the disabled motor, 
 and after cutting the other one in you 
 may proceed to the car house. 
 
 But I would not advise you to run 
 any further than is necessary without 
 first reporting the trouble at headquarters, 
 as you are liable to damage the other 
 motor by so doing, as you are now mak- 
 ing one motor do the work that is intended 
 for both motors to do. 
 
 But if you should try both of your 
 motors by cutting them out as described 
 above, and find that your car still jerks, 
 then it is reasonable to believe that your 
 trouble is caused by a short circuit or 
 ground in some of your wires. But you 
 can usually determine as to that by the 
 way she acts. 
 
 40 
 
Information on Incandescent 
 Light Circuits 
 
 It may be of some value to you to know 
 how to prevent yourself from being left 
 in the dark in case your light circuit 
 gives out on you daring your run, which 
 is a very common occurrence. 
 
 Every man who has ever worked on an 
 electric road for any length of time, has 
 either had his lights go out in his own 
 car, or has seen some other car going 
 along in total darkness. As we all know, 
 it is very dangerous to run a car at night 
 without a headlight, and it is also against 
 the laws of most cities to do so. There- 
 fore it behooves you to educate yourself 
 on this branch of street railroading suffici- 
 ently to be able to cope successfully with 
 any little trouble which may occur to you 
 while running a car. By so doing you 
 will avoid being looked upon with disgust 
 by your foreman or electrician in charge, 
 as it is really disgusting to a house-man 
 
 41 
 
to be called away from his work to go out 
 on the road to fix a light circuit for a man 
 who has probably run three or four miles 
 without any light, and on investigating it 
 finds that possibly the only trouble is a 
 lamp burned out. 
 
 All cars are equipped with a three-way 
 switch. Should your lights go out on 
 you, begin your investigation by trying 
 your switch both ways. If your lights 
 still refuse to work, then investigate the 
 lamps on the inside of your car, for if it 
 is one on either end of your car, or more 
 properly speaking, if it is one of the hood 
 lamps that is broken, they will light up 
 when you throw your switch the opposite 
 way from what it was when they went 
 out. 
 
 After trying your switch both ways and 
 they still refuse to light, then take each 
 lamp from its socket, and if you have no 
 other light to see by, light a match and 
 hold the lamp up between you and the 
 light and you can see whether or not the 
 carbon filament is burned off. Try each 
 
 42 
 
one thus until you have found the one 
 burned out — that, is providing the trouble 
 is caused by a burned out lamp. Should 
 you find one burned out, replace it with a 
 new one if you have one with you. But 
 if you have not do not give up and run in 
 the dark. If your car is wired so as to 
 cut out the front hood lamp of your car, 
 then take out that lamp and put it in 
 place of the burned out one, and when 
 you get to the end of the line change the 
 hood lamp from the front end of your car 
 to the rear end, and thus you can run 
 until turning in time without bothering 
 the men at the car house for a lamp. But 
 should your car be wired in such a way 
 that all your lamps are burning at the 
 same time, (except of course you always 
 have a spare lamp in your headlight — 
 that is if you use electric headlights) but 
 that is too unhandy to change at each 
 end, so take the lamp that has been 
 burned out, break the glass globe and 
 take the two small wires which lead 
 through the butt of the lamp and twis/ 
 
 43 
 
them together, and then you have what is 
 called a plug. Keplace it in the socket 
 where you took the burned out lamp 
 from and turn on your switch, which will 
 give you a much brighter light than you 
 had before, as you now have only four 
 lamps burning on your circuit, and of 
 course your lamps burn at a higher volt- 
 age. 
 
 Now remember I only recommend this 
 to be done in case of emergency, and you 
 should always send word to the car house 
 for them to send you a lamp as soon as 
 possible, or get one from a passing car, 
 as you are liable to burn all your lamps 
 out by burning them at so high a voltage, 
 if you do not replace the burned out one 
 in a reasonable length of time. 
 
 But I consider that it would be even 
 more reasonable, and meet with a more 
 universal approval, even should you burn 
 out all of your lamps, than to undertake 
 to run in the dark without a light, and 
 thereby cause the death of some human 
 being, or even smash a wagon. 
 
 44 
 
Here is another little point that may 
 become useful to you in locating trouble 
 in light circuits. After you have examined 
 all of your lamps and have failed to find 
 any of them that show anything wrong, 
 then examine your light circuit switch, as 
 one of the contact plates may become 
 twisted or bent out of place. 
 
 If you find such to be the case, pull 
 down your trolley and take your screw- 
 driver or your pliers, and straighten it 
 out so as to make it come in contact with 
 the revolving portion of the switch, then 
 all is O. K. But if you find your contact 
 O. K., then examine the wires leading into 
 the switch, and see that none of them are 
 broken or burned off. 
 
 Next go on top of the car and see that 
 the connection at the trolley base is not 
 broken off. Then follow the wires along 
 the roof of car, as in some cases the trol- 
 ley will jump off while running at a high 
 rate of speed, and strike a span wire and 
 rebound to the roof of the car, the flanges 
 of the trolley wheel strike one of the 
 
 45 
 
small wires and cut it so as to cause it to 
 burn off after a little. If* after all this, 
 you fail to find anything wrong, (of course 
 always ascertaining that the fuse is not 
 gone,) then you should return to the 
 lamps, as you are most sure you will find 
 the trouble there. 
 
 Often a lamp will become useless and 
 refuse to illuminate, and still the carbon 
 or wire in it will look all right. An 
 incandescent lamp must be air-tight or it 
 is no good; and sometimes a lamp that is 
 not perfect in construction will work all 
 right for a time and then all at once will 
 become useless, caused by a small leak 
 somewhere around the butt where the 
 globe is fastened to it. You can locate a 
 lamp that is disabled in this way by taking 
 a lamp out of the socket and take your 
 screwdriver and make a connection in 
 the socket by placing your screwdriver so 
 as to touch both sides of the socket at 
 once. Any kind of metal will do if you 
 have no screwdriver. When you come to 
 the affected lamp and remove it and 
 
 46 
 
make the contact in socket, as above 
 described, the rest of your lamps will 
 light up. Then you can fix the disabled 
 lamp as described above. 
 
 By following up these instructions you 
 will seldom be compelled to call for help 
 in case of trouble with your lights, nor 
 will you have to run your car without 
 lights. 
 
 An incandescent light circuit is a very 
 simple thing, and you should learn 
 enough about it to be able to care for 
 your lamps, as there is seldom anything 
 seriously wrong with them. 
 
 47 
 
Electric Motor Force, or How Ar- 
 mature Rotation is Obtained, etc. 
 
 During my experience as foreman of 
 different electric car houses, I have had 
 the question asked me hundreds of times 
 by Motormen, as to how the “rotation of 
 an armature was caused. It is a ques- 
 tion that is frequently asked by men who 
 are ambitious to learn, and it is a ques- 
 tion you seldom can secure an answer to. 
 And while I do not consider myself com- 
 petent to give you a very thorough ex- 
 planation of it, still I will endeavor to 
 give you an idea sufficiently plain to en- 
 able you to understand how it is accomp- 
 lished. 
 
 All magnet bars have what is called a 
 north and a south pole, or, more plainly 
 
 48 
 
speaking, a positive and a negative end. 
 One end is the positive, the other the 
 negative. 
 
 If you take two straight magnet bars 
 and place them on a stand with the bear- 
 ings exactly in the center, so that they 
 will swing on this pivoted stand, then 
 place them as close together as you can, 
 so as to allow them to pass each other 
 without striking; then place them at right 
 angles to each other, give them a little 
 start and you will find that they will con- 
 tinue to revolve, as the north pole of one 
 will draw the south pole of the other, and 
 when the two opposite ends come to- 
 gether, the speed of the bars (together 
 with their weight), will carry them on past 
 each other, and then the two opposite 
 ends are acted upon in the same manner, 
 and in that way motion is kept up. 
 
 When a heavy current of electricity 
 passed from the trolley wire through the 
 coils of insulated wire which surround 
 these magnet bars, to the ground, the 
 
 49 
 
attractive power of the magnet bars is 
 greatly increased. 
 
 I give this illustration to start with 
 because it is so simple; and still it may 
 assist you to comprehend the principle of 
 armature rotation, as the armature rota- 
 tion is also procured principally from 
 magnetism, and all magnetism is on the 
 same principle, although it may be brought 
 about in entirely different forms. 
 
 In a motor of the single reduction type 
 there is but one field coil. This field coil, 
 (which is the magnet coil), is placed 
 around what is termed the pole piece. 
 This pole piece is placed on the inside of 
 the motor case, and is as near the arma- 
 ture as will permit its rotation without 
 causing friction. The current passing 
 through this coil which is wound around 
 the pole piece converts the pole piece 
 into a very powerful magnet. The cur- 
 rent passing through the armature also 
 causes it to become magnetized, and the 
 positive side of the armature is attracted 
 or drawn to the pole piece. I say the 
 
 50 
 
positive side of the armature because one 
 of the brushes is the positive and the 
 other the negative, all the time, and con- 
 sequently the corresponding side of the 
 armature is the same. 
 
 Now, I have given you an illustration 
 of how the negative side or end will 
 attract the positive end of a bar, and the 
 same rule will apply to the rotation of an 
 armature; and the power of a motor is 
 obtained, to a certain extent, by the field 
 magnet having the advantage over the 
 armature, by having a leverage on the 
 pinion which is connected to the ends of 
 the armature shaft, which works on the 
 large gear wheel on the axle. This lever- 
 age can be ascertained by measuring the 
 circumference of the pinion and the cir- 
 cumference of the armature, as the differ- 
 ence in size is the amount of leverage 
 which the magnetism of the field coils and 
 the armature combined has over the pin- 
 ion; and then another reduction in the 
 draft is made in the difference between 
 the size of the gearing. Without the ad- 
 
 51 
 
vantage of this leverage, the electric 
 motor force would be insufficient to pro- 
 pel the cars. 
 
 This illustration has been given with a 
 view to make it as plain to you as possible 
 how electric motor force is obtained. 
 Realizing, as I do, that heretofore any 
 explanation pertaining to this subject has 
 always been kept beyond your reach, I 
 have thought it best to make it as plain 
 and simple as possible, that men with a 
 limited amount of comprehending ability 
 may be able to grasp the idea. 
 
 52 
 
How to Increase the Speed of a 
 Oar by Changing two Connec- 
 tions. 
 
 It is the ambition of every Motorman 
 to understand thoroughly every little 
 detail in connection with his car, and 
 while it is my intention to impart to them 
 in full everything practical and possible 
 it will be better for them not to practice 
 the following, as I am only giving this as 
 information, and “ where ignorance is 
 bliss, ’tis folly to be wise.” As I have 
 hinted before, what you learn keep to 
 yourself, as in most cases proffered infor- 
 mation creates a very disagreeable odor. 
 
 I feel as though my readers ought to be 
 lenient with me, and not practice anything 
 that I impart to them that is intended 
 
 53 
 
only for information, or that which is 
 calculated to educate them in their line 
 of work. 
 
 Motormen understand that the speed 
 of a motor is gauged by the winding in 
 the armature and the size of the gearings. 
 While this is true, there is still another 
 and simple way of increasing the speed 
 of your car by disconnecting your ground 
 and end wire from your terminal board, 
 or more plainly speaking, from the field 
 coils, and cross them and connect again. 
 That is, connect your end wire in the 
 ground wire place, and the ground wire 
 in the end wire place. Remember that 
 the end and ground wires are the outside 
 wires, the middle one being the loop. 
 This being done correctly will increase 
 the speed. 
 
 54 
 
General Information on Westing- 
 house Motors. 
 
 As there are a vast number of these 
 popular machines in use in the United 
 States, I feel that this little book would 
 not be complete without treating upon a 
 few of the most important points; and if 
 you practice the following instructions, 
 you will be able to handle a single reduc- 
 tion Westinghouse motor with perfect 
 safety. The Westinghouse electrical 
 equipments for a car consist of the mot- 
 ors, controlling stands or platform 
 switches, two overhead cut-out switches, 
 diverters, motor cut-out, lightning ar- 
 rester, fuse block, trolley, lamp circuit 
 and wire cables. Motormen and conduc- 
 tors should be thoroughly familiar with 
 the equipments, so as to be able to suc- 
 
 55 
 
cessfully cope with any trouble that may 
 arise while on the road. There are five 
 points or notches to the controller, each 
 of which gives a corresponding speed. It 
 is not necessary to look at the switch 
 when operating it, for the notches are 
 determined by feeling only. On the first 
 notch the four sections of the diverter, 
 the field coils and the armature are all in 
 series. The succeeding notches cut out 
 the diverter sections in their order as 
 numbered, and the fifth notch leaves only 
 the field coils and the armature in the 
 circuit, and gives the highest speed. The 
 upper and lower bearings of the cylinder 
 and the small wheel at the upper end 
 should be oiled occasionally. Use very 
 little oil, and don’t allow it to run down 
 on the cylinder. The cylinder contacts, 
 or rings, should be rubbed off and very 
 slightly moistened with grease to keep 
 them from becoming dry and cutting. 
 The Westinghouse controllers are con- 
 structed and designed to give the car a 
 forward motion when the handle is moved 
 
 56 
 
from “oft” in the same manner as the 
 hands of a watch go; and if they do not 
 do so, it is because they are connected up 
 wrong. Moving the controller in the 
 opposite direction reverses the car. In 
 cutting off the current, be very careful 
 not to throw the handle beyond “ off ” 
 position, as this would reverse the mot- 
 ors, The handle of the controller should 
 always be at “off ” position when the car 
 is standing still, even if the trolley is not 
 on the wire. When one switch is in use, 
 the other one should be at “ off.” Don't 
 try any experiment to see what would happen 
 if both switches were used at the same time. 
 Before placing trolley on the wire, always 
 examine both switches and see that they 
 are at “off” position. Always leave 
 switches in this position and remove 
 handle when leaving your car. If at any 
 time the controller should not work freely, 
 pull down trolley and remove cover of 
 controller. An inspection will probably 
 show the trouble due to the want of oil, 
 roughness of contacts, or something of 
 
 57 
 
jxind. To start tbe car forward, 
 .^row the handle to the left from “off” 
 to the first notch. Allowing the car to 
 start before moving to second notch, 
 make a pause and then move to third, 
 and so on. Do not move suddenly from 
 “ off ” to second notch. To run backward 
 observe the same rules, but move handle 
 from “ off” to the right. Be careful to 
 throw handle to first notch with the first 
 move. Do not merely move it far enough 
 to make contact, as it will burn your 
 cylinder contacts and make your control- 
 ler work hard. Never reverse your motors 
 when the car is running forivard , except in 
 cases of extreme necessity, such as avoid- 
 ing a collision, or to save life. If there is 
 not time to stop your car with your brakes, 
 reverse to the first or second notch, and 
 keep the handle there until your car 
 begins to move backwards. Don’t move 
 it beyond the second notch, for then the 
 wheels might spin around backwards, and 
 your car would not stop as quickly as if 
 they kept revolving in a forward direction. 
 
 58 
 
Reversing is a severe strain on the n 
 and should not be resorted to except wli^ 
 absolutely necessary. When switching 
 on current, never jump notches. For 
 instance, do not throw the handle from 
 the first notch to the third, without mak- 
 ing a pause at the second, but when 
 switching the current off, throw the 
 handle quickly and with a single motion 
 to “off” position. Don’t go beyond this 
 point, however. When going up grade, 
 it is advisable to work at the fifth notch 
 most of the time, as this is the most econ- 
 omical position; and besides, the diverter 
 coils are not designed to be used contin- 
 uously when the car is heavily loaded, 
 although they will stand it with safety for 
 a considerable time. Go through all 
 curves slowly, using first or second notch. 
 It is better not to stop on very heavy 
 grades or in curves, if it can be avoided. 
 Run slowly through flooded places in the 
 track, and when examining motors, never 
 allow water to drip from your clothing or 
 hat upon the motor. And always re- 
 
 59 
 
member that any electrical trouble can be 
 quickly stopped by pulling the trolley 
 down or by throwing overhead switch. 
 The Westinghouse company have a very 
 simple and easy device for cutting a motor 
 out of circuit. They recognized the fact 
 that the old style of disconnecting wires 
 sometimes confuses Motormen, and have 
 equipped their motors with a cut-out 
 device, which is located inside the car, 
 under the seats, about the middle of the 
 car, a small trap-door being cut in the 
 panel of the seat to permit it to be easily 
 reached. You will find two plugs, pulling 
 out either of which will cut out the motor 
 on the respective sides. That is, pull out 
 the plug nearest the motor that is to be 
 cut out, and your motor is dead. 
 
 60 
 
Westinghouse Fuse Block. 
 
 A fuse is placed on the car as a protec- 
 tion to the motors. This fuse is connected 
 into the wire running to the trolley, and 
 is situated in any convenient position on 
 the car. The fuse is not intended to melt 
 or blow with ordinary, or even heavy 
 loads, but is inserted as a precaution in 
 case any of the wires of the car should 
 become grounded or crossed. The 
 capacity of this fuse should be deter- 
 mined usually by the conditions of the 
 road. Extra fuses should be carried on 
 the car in a convenient place, and also a 
 screwdriver, if the latter is required to 
 replace a fuse. Before putting in a new 
 fuse, pull trolley down from wire. With 
 a single motor equipment use a 50 ampere 
 fuse; with double equipments use a 75 
 ampere fuse. Always pull trolley down 
 when working at the switches, lamp cir- 
 cuit, lightning arrester or fuse block, as 
 you are absolutely safe if you take this 
 precaution. 
 
 61 
 
The Westinghouse Lightning 
 Arrester. 
 
 Being* entirely automatic in its action, it 
 requires no adjustment after each discharge. 
 Tt should be examined, however, after each 
 storm as a matter of precaution. By remov- 
 ing triangular plate which closes the front of 
 the arrester, the whole interior may be in- 
 spected. The swinging arms must pass freely 
 through the holes into the air chamber, and 
 the carbon tips should touch the carbon 
 blocks, and when pressed in, should move 
 them one-sixteenth of an inch before the 
 flange strikes the marble. The air space be- 
 tween the toothed carbons should not be more 
 than one-sixteenth of an inch. The screws 
 should be firmly set, especially those holding 
 the plate on the window in the air chamber. 
 
 62 
 
Westinghouse Lamp Circuit. 
 
 The lamp, or lighting circuit of the car 
 usually consists of five 100 volt lamps 
 connected in series. Where oil head 
 lights are used, three lamps are in a group 
 in the middle of the car, and one on each 
 platform. In this case a small double 
 break switch is provided for cutting the 
 current off from the lights. Where elec- 
 tric head lights are used, each platform 
 lamp is connected in multiple with a head 
 light connecting block; and a two-way 
 switch inside of the car makes it possible 
 to throw either the platform lamp or the 
 head light into the circuit. The lamps 
 may sometimes refuse to light. This will 
 probably be found to be due to one of 
 the following causes: a broken or burned 
 
 63 
 
out lamp, poor contact between one of the 
 lamps and its socket, poor contact in the 
 switch, a loose or broken wire, or a 
 blown fuse. The remedies being, in the 
 first case, to replace the defective lamp 
 with a new one; in the second, to try 
 every lamp, pushing it more firmly into 
 the socket; in the third, to remove the 
 cover of the switch and tighten contacts. 
 If the trouble is not found to be due to 
 any of the above causes, you should resort 
 to the advice given in another part of this 
 book, under the heading of “ Information 
 on Incandescent Light Circuits,” which 
 will help you out of your difficulty. 
 
 64 
 
Information on Open Circuits and 
 Sparking Brushes. 
 
 The sparking of brushes will not be 
 noticed if the armature brushes and brush 
 holder are in good condition. If there 
 is any sparking it may be taken as an 
 indication that something is wrong, and 
 may be due to any of the following 
 causes: poor contact between the brushes 
 and the commutator. See that there is 
 no looseness about the brush holder, and 
 that the springs exert proper pressure. 
 The brushes should fit closely upon the 
 commutator, and not make contact only 
 at one corner. See that the brushes are 
 not wedged in the holders, that the com- 
 mutator is clean, and that good brushes 
 are used. An open circuit in the arma- 
 
 65 
 
ture connections of one motor will cause 
 a heavy current to pass through the other 
 armature, and this may produce a steady 
 flare of the commutator. A weak mag- 
 netic field, caused by open circuit or short 
 circuit, or wrong connections in the field 
 coils, will also produce a steady flare, due 
 to the heavy current. If the field circuit 
 of a motor is not complete, owing to a 
 broken wire, a very heavy current will 
 pass through the armature, sufficient to 
 blow the fuse on the car or to burn out 
 the armature. An open circuit in the 
 armature will produce a greenish flashy 
 which will appear to run around the com- 
 mutator; while a short circuit in an arm- 
 ature will be made evident either by the 
 fuse blowing, or by a jerky motion of the 
 car. If allowed to go on for any length 
 of time, two bars of the commutator, about 
 1803 apart, to which the ends of the open 
 circuited coil are attached, will gradually 
 burn down flat, and the insulation between 
 them and the adjacent bars will be par- 
 tially destroyed. 
 
 66 
 
The marks on the commutator will serve 
 to show which coil has the open circuit, 
 and this should be corrected at the ear- 
 liest possible moment. There are two 
 ways of doing this, one being to replace 
 the defective coil with a new one, the 
 other being to put on a jumper. To do 
 this, the canvas cap at the commutator 
 end is removed, the two ends of the 
 defective coil disconnected from the com- 
 mutator, and an insulated wire of the 
 same size soldered into the two bars, thus 
 connecting them directly together. The 
 coil itself is not disturbed, the ends merely 
 being cut off and insulated. This will 
 not visibly affect the running of the 
 motor, and this jumper may be left on 
 until it is convenient to make more com- 
 plete repairs. A flat bar, or bars, will 
 cause sparking and blackening of com- 
 mutator, and should be remedied as soon 
 as found, by smoothing down with a file, 
 or turning the commutator off a slight 
 cut and smoothing with fine emery cloth. 
 
 67 
 
Some Questions Which You May 
 toe Called Upon to Answer. 
 
 As it is an assured fact that all Motor- 
 men running electric cars must sooner or 
 later pass an examination before a Board 
 of Examiners, I will now give you a syn- 
 opsis of the questions you will be asked, 
 and the answers, all of which you will 
 find in this book. “ Forewarned is fore- 
 armed/’ So, if you fail in the examina- 
 tion you will have no one to blame but 
 yourself, for they cannot ask you anything 
 that does not actually pertain to your car 
 and its workings, as you are not paid to 
 know anything not pertaining to your 
 car. 
 
 G8 
 
Some of these questions require very 
 lengthy answers, but are very simple 
 when you learp them by heart, and by a 
 very little study on your part there is no 
 reason why you cannot pass an honorable 
 examination. 
 
 You will be asked to define in part the 
 term “ short circuit,” which has been 
 sufficiently treated in this book. 
 
 You will be asked what causes elec- 
 tricity to heat. 
 
 There is only one proper answer to 
 this question, and that is “ resistance.*’ 
 Electricity must be resisted in order to 
 cause heat. 
 
 You will be asked to explain the term* 
 “ ground ” or “grounded,” and its causes. 
 This has been explained in another part 
 of this book. 
 
 You will be asked what kind of motor 
 you are or have been running, their 
 names, and the amount of electricity they 
 are built for. This you will have to learn 
 from your Superintendent or the elec- 
 trician in charge, as I have no means of 
 
 69 
 
knowing what particular make of motors 
 you are running. 
 
 You will be asked in case you could not 
 reverse your car with the reversing device, 
 what you would do. This question has 
 also been fully treated of previously. 
 
 You will be asked in case certain parts 
 of your car should become disabled, what 
 course you would pursue. This question 
 you could answer correctly by memoriz- 
 ing the teachings of this book. 
 
 You will be asked to trace out the cur- 
 rent, beginning at the trolley wire and 
 ending with the ground wire, naming 
 every part of your car and motor as you 
 proceed. As I have been very careful 
 and accurate in my explanations of the 
 current tracing, you have no reason for 
 not being able to answer correctly. 
 
 You will be asked what you would do 
 in case your car becomes groundedbe- 
 cause of dirty rails. Most Motormen can 
 answer this question, but for the benefit 
 of those who have not had experience, I 
 will say: connect the rail with any part 
 
 70 
 
of your wheel or truck, with a piece of 
 wire or any piece of iron you may have 
 handy, and your car will start. All that 
 is necessary is to get a clean connection 
 with the rail. * 
 
 You may be asked what you would do 
 in case your controlling cable should 
 break on a car equipped with a rheostat 
 controllor, and you were unable to use 
 the controlling device. 
 
 The answer is, throw off one of your 
 overheads and gather up your broken 
 cable and tie it up so that it will not 
 come in contact with any other working 
 part of your car. Then pull your traveler 
 one-third of the way around on your 
 rheostat, and control your car with the 
 overhead switch. Take advantage of all 
 down grades and run by gravity, so as 
 not to heat your rheostat any more than 
 possible. The traveler left in one place 
 on the rheostat for any length of time, 
 will become red-hot, and consequently 
 burns out the resistance. 
 
 You will be asked how you determine 
 
 71 
 
how many miles per hour you are travel- 
 ing. This question will be asked for 
 various reasons. For instance, in case of 
 an accident that would result in the 
 Motorman’s arrest, he would be called 
 upon to state the rate of speed he was 
 running at the time of the apcident. The 
 manner of determining the rate of speed 
 a car is traveling, is very simple. All 
 you have to do is to count the number of 
 rails you pass over in twenty seconds, and 
 it gives you the number of miles per 
 hour. 
 
 You also have orders from your Super- 
 intendent not to run faster than a certain 
 rate of speed over different parts of the 
 road, therefore you should keep this rule 
 in mind. 
 
 Other questions may be asked you, all 
 of which you can easily answer by keep- 
 ing this book constantly with you and by 
 frequently referring to it. 
 
 72 
 
t <?0 
 
 16 
 
 fkO 
 
 1 
 
 3 T:i 
 
 Points of Interest to all. 
 
 While employed as a Motorman, I was 
 frequently asked by passengers as to how 
 long an incandescent lamp would last, 
 and I presume my readers have all been 
 asked the same question. As we all like 
 to be able to answer such trifling ques- 
 tions when asked them, I think it will be 
 well to give a little information on these 
 points, as many of you, perhaps, have 
 never heard how long they were supposed 
 to last. 
 
 An incandescent lamp, when used as 
 they are supposed to be used, that is, not 
 overtaxed by higher voltage than they 
 are manufactured for, will last about one 
 thousand hoxirs. That is considered to 
 be the average life of a lamp, or as long 
 as they are supposed to burn, although 
 they will, in some cases, burn twice that 
 
 73 
 
length of time. But they are not guar- 
 anteed by the manufacturer for over one 
 thousand hours. 
 
 Another question that is quite fre- 
 quently asked by the traveling public is, 
 where does the current go to after it 
 passes through the motors. This ques- 
 tion is answered by stating that it returns 
 to the generators at the power station 
 through the ground wire that is laid 
 along the track. 
 
 Some one else may ask you how many 
 revolutions per minute your armature 
 makes. Of course that must be deter- 
 mined by the number of miles per hour 
 your car makes. If you have a thirty- 
 inch wheel, and your gearing is of 
 standard size, then your armature must 
 make 3,379 revolutions per mile. If you 
 wish to find out how fast the armature 
 revolves in your car, multiply 3,379 by 
 the number of miles per hour your car 
 runs, and divide it by 60, and you have 
 it. For instance, if a car runs 20 miles 
 per hour, the armature revolves 1,126 
 
 74 
 
times per minute, an*d as they are very 
 heavy, you can see by this what a great 
 strain it must be on gears and pinions 
 when you reverse your car when running 
 at a high rate of speed. 
 
 There is the trolley wheel also which 
 causes a great deal of comment and argu- 
 ment, as to how fast it travels on its 
 axis. Very few men running cars ever 
 stop to think how much wear there is on 
 this little wheel which travels on the 
 wire over their heads. The average size 
 of trolley wheels is about nine inches, that 
 is in circumference, which necessitates it 
 to revolve 2,344 times per minute; when 
 you are running at a speed of twenty 
 miles per hour the revolutions it must 
 make per mile are 7,040. 
 
 While speaking of the trolley I will give 
 you a little of my experience in regard to 
 how I have procured the best results from 
 a trolley. If the tension in a trolley is a 
 trifle too weak, it will jump off the wire 
 at nearly all overhead switches and 
 crossings, especially if you do not cross 
 
 75 
 
them very slowly; for every time the 
 wheel strikes a little uneven place on the 
 wire it will cause it to bound, and it sel- 
 dom goes on the wire when it goes up 
 again. On the other hand, if you have 
 your tension too stiff, it causes unneces- 
 sary wear on the wheel, and when it does 
 come off, unless some one has hold of the 
 rope, it is liable to break a span wire or 
 bend the pole, or perhaps both. My ex- 
 perience has been that a trolley gives best 
 satisfaction with a tension of about fifteen 
 pounds at the wire. That is, get a piece 
 of iron weighing fifteen pounds, and tie 
 it to your trolley rope. Get up on the 
 roof of your car, place your trolley pole 
 so that it will stand at an angle of 45 de- 
 grees, and then adjust the tension so it 
 will just balance the weight, and then 
 you have got a tension that will give 
 better satisfaction than I was ever able to 
 obtain from any other amount of tension, 
 and I have tried them in many different 
 ways. 
 
 That disagreeable, roaring sound which 
 76 
 
is caused by the trolley wheel, and which 
 causes so much annoyance to passengers 
 can, in most all cases, be stopped by put- 
 ting a little oil on the trolley wheel, as 
 when they are allowed to run dry they 
 will get rough and soon begin to cut the 
 pin and bushing, which is the cause of 
 the noise. 
 
 I speak of these little things because 
 the man who looks after all these troubles 
 in his car, soon gains the endorsement of 
 his Superintendent as a good man. For 
 if he keeps everything in this line up in 
 good shape, he is sure to have his car 
 running much smoother in all respects 
 than a man who pays no attention to the 
 working of his machinery. I am sure 
 there is a sufficient amount of self-satis- 
 faction in having everything work nicely 
 to pay a man for what little extra time it 
 takes to keep them up. 
 
 "While I am allowing my pen to drift in 
 this channel (of what may be termed 
 novelties), I will just relate one more little 
 trick of the trade which I have found 
 
 77 
 
quite useful in a number of cases, and if 
 you have heard it before, I beg your par- 
 don for taking up your time with it 
 But to those who have not heard it, it 
 may. some time help them out. 
 
 Once I was on a run that made me the 
 last man in the house, and I caught a 
 large load from a party. In starting on 
 a grade I blew a fuse and found that I 
 had no other one to replace it with. After 
 looking around in every place for a piece 
 of wire of some sort to use as a substi- 
 tute for the fuse, I was at a loss to know 
 what to do. All at once I thought of a 
 way out of my trouble, and opening the 
 car door I asked if some lady would please 
 give me a hairpin. This I got, and put- 
 ting it in for a fuse, I was enabled to 
 take my load to its destination. 
 
 Again, should the carbons or brushes 
 in your motor get to making a shrill, 
 screeching noise, you can in most cases 
 stop that annoyance by removing the 
 brushes and rubbing a little lubricant of 
 some kind on them. I would not recom- 
 
 78 
 
mend you to use ordinary oil as it will 
 gum on your brushes and commutator, 
 and cause them to flash. But if you will 
 go to a drug store and purchase five cents 
 worth of vaseline or paraffin gum and 
 use it, it will stop this disagreeable noise, 
 and will not gum up on your commutator. 
 But never put on but just a little. This 
 is also a good remedy for a controller of 
 most any type that works stiff, as they do 
 often, and thereby making them disa- 
 greeable to handle. Just put a little of 
 this lubricant on that portion of the con- 
 troller which makes the contact, and you 
 will find that they will work much freer. 
 I V * 
 
 'I 'I 
 
 + x*- 
 
 h 
 
 ^ < 
 ~ r 
 *+- ■+• 
 
 * V 
 i< •( 
 
 l • 
 
 79 
 
 l + Tr 
 
General Electric 800 Railway Motor. 
 
 The General Electric 800 is a four-pole 
 Motor, having two salient and two conse- 
 quent poles. The pole pieces are cast as 
 part of the frame, and the field coils are 
 secured in place around them by means 
 of removable flanges. The field coils 
 have been designed with special attention 
 to thorough insulation. 
 
 The utmost care is taken in the selec- 
 tion of the materials, tests being made 
 with samples of all wire, paper, cloth 
 and tape used in their manufacture. 
 Equal precaution is maintained in the 
 winding of the coils and in the applica- 
 tion of the insulating material. The 
 field winding consists of asbestos covered 
 wire wound on special formers without 
 any spool or shell. After removal from 
 the former, the coil is first wrapped with 
 canvas strips and then immersed success- 
 
 80 
 
ively in oil and japan, and afterwards 
 baked. This construction results in a 
 so-called mumified coil, which is imper- 
 vious to moisture, efficiently protected 
 from mechanical injury, and capable of 
 withstanding such excessive temperatures 
 as may result from overloading 
 
 It is therefore well fitted to render long 
 service under the exacting conditions 
 imposed in street railway work. The 
 armature is of the slotted or ironclad 
 type, with Eickemeyer winding. The 
 di«ks forming the core are first punched 
 from thoroughly annealed iron, then 
 again annealed and japanned. The 
 second annealing after punching ensures 
 a low core loss by removing the harden- 
 ing effect of the punching. The disks 
 are then built up on the shaft, after 
 which the slots in the core are carefully 
 prepared for the insertion of the Arma- 
 ture coil. 
 
 The invention of the Eickemeyer 
 Machine wound armature coil marked 
 an epoch in the art of railway motor con- 
 
 81 
 
struction, for it made possible a design 
 and method of manufacture whereby a 
 coil of general excellence, electrically 
 and mechanically was produced and 
 which had the following principal 
 characteristics : Durability, interchange- 
 ability, high insulation, imperviousness 
 to moisture, facility for repairs and cap- 
 ability of withstanding excessive heat- 
 ing. 
 
 The General Electric Company’s . 
 Machines have become so ironclad and 
 durable that most Street Car Companies 
 have adopted them for use on their re- 
 spective loads, and I take pleasure in 
 giving Motormen all the information 
 possible in connection with them. And 
 any Motorman who cares to study a little 
 along with his practice can in a very 
 short time be able to master these most 
 popular machines as there is nothing so 
 complicated about them but what any 
 man of ordinary intelligence can under- 
 stand by memorizing the teachings of 
 this little book. 
 
 82 
 
General Electric 800 Railway Motor. 
 
 83 
 
The following are some of the prin- 
 cipal things a Motorman should thor- 
 oughly understand : Sparking at the 
 commutator, this is caused by many 
 things. The Mechanical causes are: 
 First, looseness o i commutator; Second, 
 untrue surface of the same ; Third, loose 
 brush holder ; also brush stuck in 
 holder and improper pressure on 
 brush, etc. The Electrical causes are : 
 Broken wires or connection in the arma- 
 ture, also excessive current in armature, 
 weak field or misplaced rocker arms. 
 If the current in the armature is too 
 large in proportion to t.e field magnet- 
 ism, there will be a distortion or twisting 
 of the direction of the magnetism from 
 the pole pieces, caused by the magnetism 
 of the armature itself, and the result 
 will be that the non-sparking position of 
 brushes is changed, and the brushes be- 
 ing in their normal position will spark. 
 Any spark caused by this or by mis- 
 placed rocker arm will be a steady flare 
 and will not be worse on one part of the 
 
 84 
 
commutator than another. If it comes 
 from field trouble it will vary with the 
 position of the switch. If the contact 
 surfaces of the brushes are not on op- 
 posite bars of the commutator, the 
 machine will spark. If the brush-holders 
 are in order the face of the same should 
 be about y inch from the commutator. 
 If the commutator flashes on certain 
 bars, or if, when running fast, points of 
 flame seem to dart out from the brush 
 and extend part or all way round the 
 commutator, the cause is generally a 
 broken wire or connection in the Arma- 
 ture. An armature with a broken wire 
 in it will run without jerks, but with less 
 force than a good one. It should never 
 be allowed so to run as the sparking 
 burns the bars of the commutator where 
 the break is. If the broken wire in an 
 armature cannot be readily got at to re- 
 pair, the commutator bars on either side 
 of the break should be soldered together, 
 and the Armature will practically be as 
 good as new. One coil will be cut out; 
 
 85 
 
but this will be inappreciable. Three or 
 four or more coils might be cut out in 
 case of need, and the armature would 
 still be serviceable. The same thing 
 applies to grounded or crossed armatures 
 where only one or two coils are involved. 
 The coils can be cut out and properly 
 separated from the commutator, and the 
 armature may be good for service again 
 in a few hours. Field magnets are liable 
 to be injured by overheat or by mechan- 
 ical causes, and in some cases, might 
 short circuit or ground when cool, but 
 these cases will be very rare. Trouble 
 with the fields will be shown by irregu- 
 larities of speed, and by sparking at the 
 Commutator as described. No motor 
 should be run unless its field is in good 
 condition. All that has been said about 
 the causes and effects of different troubles 
 with fields, may be better understood by 
 a careful study of the different connec- 
 tions of the motor and switches, a print 
 of which will be found in this book. 
 
 Every man who works on or about 
 
 86 
 
motors should make himself 'amiliar 
 with everything in connection with them. 
 In another part of this book under the 
 heading of “How to IyOcate Trouble in a 
 Car While on the Road” will clear up any 
 trouble you may have, and as a motor 
 man is paid for what he knows about 
 motors he should endeavor to increase 
 his salary by learning his machine thor- 
 oughly. 
 
General Electric Company’s Series 
 Parallel Controller. 
 
 The purpose of an Electric Street Car 
 Controller is to start, to stop and to re- 
 gulate the speed of a car in the most con- 
 venient and the most economical manner. 
 A controller is put in the care of a man 
 knowing little or nothing of the theory 
 or practice of electricity or of mechanics. 
 The mechanism is in almost continuous 
 movement, either starting, stopping or 
 changing the speed. Currents at 500 
 volts must be broken thousands of times 
 each day between the controller con- 
 tacts, and when in operation the ap- 
 paratus is subjected continuously to 
 mechanical shocks and electrical stresses. 
 The first commerical series parallel con- 
 troller with magnetic blow-out was the 
 Type J., March, 1892. The form E., 
 
 88 
 
September, 1892, came next and was the 
 beginning of the cylinder controller. 
 This had an external reversing switch. 
 The form K., February, 1893, combines 
 both controller and switch in one case 
 and has remained for several years un- 
 changed, except in details. 
 
 The various controllers which are 
 known as K 2, K 10, etc., are simply 
 modifications of the K to fit them to 
 larger or differently wound motors. No 
 new principles are introduced because 
 the K was in its original form, a practi- 
 cally perfect controller This being the 
 latest type of controller and one most in 
 use. I have taken great pains to make 
 it so plain and complete that every 
 motorman can, by referring to the ac- 
 companying illustrations, post himself 
 on every detail in connection with this 
 most popular controller. 
 
 90 
 
Description First and Second 
 Notches. 
 
 The annexed cut represents by arrows 
 the flow of the current from the controll- 
 ing switch through the various wires and 
 field coils back to the switch. 
 
 When the switch handle indicator 
 points to the first and second notches the 
 current flows through the three field coils 
 in series. 
 
 The current leaving the switch flows 
 through + B wire, through B coils, re- 
 turns through — B wire to the switch, 
 thence through + A wire and both \ 
 coils, returning through — A wire to the 
 switch, thence through + C wire and 
 both C coils, returning through — C wire 
 to the switch, thence through + Arma- 
 ture wire, through brushes at one side of 
 the commutator to the Armature, re- 
 turning through the brushes at opposite 
 side of commutator, thence through — 
 Armature wire to th£ switch, thence 
 through the cut-out box to the ground. 
 
 93 
 
I 
 
 Third Notch 
 
Description Third Notch. 
 
 With the switch handle indicator on 
 the third notch the current flows through 
 + B wire, through both B coils and re- 
 turns through B wire from where it 
 enters + C and flows through both C 
 field coils, returning through — C wire 
 to the switch, from where it flows through 
 4- Armature wire, through the brushes 
 at opposite side of commutator to — 
 Armature wire, back to the switch, 
 thence through the cut-out box to the 
 ground. 
 
 It will be noticed that when the 
 switch handle indicator is on the third 
 notch that the A field coil is entirely cut 
 out. 
 
 95 
 

 Fourth Notch. 
 
Description Fourth Notch. 
 
 With the switch handle indicator on 
 the fourth notch the current flows 
 through + A and + B in multiple with 
 each other, returning through — B and 
 — A simultaneously back to the switch 
 and thence through + C through C field 
 coils, returning through — C to the 
 switch, thence through + Armature and 
 through the brushes to the Armature, 
 thence through — Armature wire from 
 brushes on opposite side of the commu- 
 tator to controlling switch, to the cut-out 
 box and thence to the ground. 
 
 97 
 

 Fifth and Sixth 
 Notches. 
 
Description Fifth and Sixth Notches 
 
 The fifth and sixth notches show alike, 
 the current flows through + B and + A, 
 through B and A field coils in multiple, 
 thence through — B and — A simultan- 
 eously to controlling switch, from whence 
 it flows through + Armature wire to the 
 Armature at the brushes, thence through 
 — Armature wire from brushes on op- 
 posite side of commutator back to the 
 controlling switch to the cut-out box and 
 thence to the ground. 
 
 It will be noticed by this cut that the 
 C coil is entirely cut out, and motormen 
 are requested to use the fifth and sixth 
 notches as little as possible, and never 
 for any distance on up grades. 
 
 With the switch handle on the seventh 
 notch, the current flows through + B, + 
 A and + C simultaneously through all 
 
 99 
 
Seventh Notch 
 
the field coils in multiple, thence through 
 — B, — A and — C wires, back to the 
 switch, thence through + Armature 
 wire to Armature at the brushes, return- 
 ing through the brushes at opposite side 
 of commutator through — Armature 
 back to the controlling switch, thence 
 through the cut-out box to the ground. 
 
 It will be noticed by the above cut 
 that the current flowing equally through 
 all the field coils simultaneously, that 
 this is the best notch for heavy work. 
 
 Note, that in the description of the 
 course of the current in the above cases, 
 the current after going through the 
 different combinations of field coils, is 
 described as going in at +■ Armature 
 and coming out al; — Armature. This is 
 true only of one motor. With the other 
 motor the course through the field coils 
 is the same but the current goes in at — 
 Armature and comes out at + Armature. 
 This is owing to the fact that the two 
 motors are hung in a reversed position 
 with respect to each other, and this 
 
 101 
 
crossing of the Armature wires causes 
 both car axles to be revolved in the same 
 direction. 
 
 Noth. — In repairing field coils it is 
 essential that the coils be placed on the 
 cores in the order B, A, C, counting 
 from the keeper. The new coils sent out 
 by the Edison Company are all alike 
 and must not be placed on field cores 
 with either A or C coils. 
 
 109 
 
Methods for the Government of 
 Motors. 
 
 The amount of current which passes 
 through one of the motors at any time (the 
 condition of the line being equal) is gov- 
 erned by two things: First, the speed 
 of the armature. Second, the position 
 of the switch. If the wheels of the car 
 could not move at all the motor would 
 soon burn out if the current was left on, 
 even on the first notch of the switch. 
 And on the other notches it would burn 
 out much faster. When the armature 
 revolves it generates a counter electro- 
 motive force and the faster it turns the 
 greater this force and the less currents 
 will pass. This one reason is why care 
 must be taken in handling cars off the 
 track, or where the wheels cannot turn 
 freely. This is not the only reason how- 
 ever. Every time the switch is moved 
 or thrown on or off, changes in the mag- 
 
 103 
 
netism of the iron of the motor occur. 
 Now these changes in magnetism induce 
 electro-motive forces in the wire of the 
 motors entirely independent of the elec- 
 tro-motive force derived from the dyna- 
 mo. These forces only last an instant 
 while the current is starting or stopping 
 and their tension depends upon the vol- 
 ume of the current made or broken. 
 Thus, when the switch is thrown on or 
 off when the car is stuck so the wheels 
 cannot turn, these inductive effects are 
 very heavy and may subject the insula- 
 tion of the motor to thousands of volts 
 for an instant. The same may be said of 
 reversing the motor or moving the switch 
 or shutting it off before the car has gained 
 proper headway. In all ordinary service 
 these inductive effects are inconsiderable 
 and their force is largely expended in 
 inducing harmless currents in the copper 
 spools of the magnet. 
 
 In regular service of cars, with trail 
 cars or without, there will be no trouble 
 with motors being overloaded, provided 
 
 104 
 
all the connections of the car are right. 
 The motors can get very hot without 
 danger but are less liable to trouble when 
 they are cool. Any broken connection 
 on a motor or any other electrical trouble 
 will immediately upset the balance be- 
 tween the two motors and the result will 
 be that certain parts of one or both will 
 heat, the commutator will spark and if 
 the trouble is not attended to, and the 
 car left running, serious loss is sure to 
 result. 
 
 Hardly any electrical defect can exist 
 on a car without making itself known to 
 the motorman. The speed will be af- 
 fected on one or more notches of the 
 switch, the brushes and switch will flash, 
 and the car will show by its sound that 
 both motors are not working together. 
 The quickest way to locate trouble is as 
 follows: First, does it appear equally 
 from both switches? If not, it is in one 
 of them. If not in the switches, cut out 
 one of the motors and try the other. If 
 it works all right on all positions of the 
 
 105 
 
switch, that motor is good; then try the 
 other. The condition of a motor work- 
 ing alone can be told by the action of the 
 car, and if there is any trouble its posi- 
 tion can be learned. In the ordinary stop- 
 ping of a car a motorman should never 
 bring his car up with a jerk, but should 
 ease up on his brake in time to take up 
 the loss of motion in the gearing so as to 
 enable his armatures to make a smooth 
 start, also save the wheels from becoming 
 flat. 
 
 Westinghouse S. P. Controller. 
 
 The pointer in ordinary running 
 should rest on the third notch for slow 
 speed, and should be turned against 
 the stop, (or as far as it will go) for full 
 speed. 
 
 Notches i, 2, 4 and 5 are to be used 
 only in starting, and are not to be used 
 continuously. 
 
 The use of notches 1, 2, 4 and 5 con- 
 tinuously will cause damage to the ap- 
 paratus by burning out the diverter. 
 
 G 
 
 106 
 
The reversing switch is situated in 
 the controller case, and is operated by a 
 lever which goes through a slot under 
 and to the right of the controller top. 
 As there is no arrangement on the con- 
 troller to prevent the reversing lever 
 from being thrown while the current is 
 on, motormen must be extremely care- 
 ful and not change the position of the 
 lever, unless the controlling lever is on 
 the off position. To reverse the motors 
 while the current is on will result in the 
 destruction of the reverse switch, and 
 perhaps the entire controller. 
 
 The fuse box is located at one end of 
 the car on the outside, and is fastened 
 on the platform timber. This fuse box 
 is provided with a removable fuse block, 
 to which is attached the fuse consisting 
 of a piece of No. 12 copper wire. To 
 renew a fuse the fuse block must be re- 
 moved with the fingers and a new fuse 
 inserted into the binding posts and the 
 block re-placed in the box. 
 
 When both motors are in working 
 
 107 
 
order, the two plugs situated on the in- 
 side of the controller case will enter both 
 double sockets. When it is necessary 
 to cut out Motor No. 1, (motor nearest 
 fuse box) , remove the plug from socket 
 marked No. 1, and to cut out Motor No. 
 2, (motor farthest from fuse box), re- 
 move the plug from socket marked No. 
 2. When you have one or the other 
 motor cut out, the motor in circuit will 
 refuse to start until the pointer has 
 reached the fourth notch. Move the 
 pointer from the fourth notch as the car 
 accelerates. 
 
 There are six points or notches to the 
 Westinghouse S. P. Controller, each of 
 which gives a corresponding speed, and 
 all of which are passed over by a single 
 revolution of the handle. The reversing 
 is done with a separate switch, the handle 
 of which projects from the right side of 
 the stand. The controller is operated 
 entirely by feeling. 
 
 The first notch throws the whole re- 
 sistance and the two motors in series; 
 
 108 
 
the second notch cuts out half the resist- 
 ance; the third notch the whole resist- 
 ance; the fourth notch throws both 
 motors in parallel with one another and 
 one in series with the whole resistance; 
 the fifth notch reduces the resistance 
 one-half; and the sixth notch throws out 
 all the resistance. 
 
 For the best results the following 
 should be borne in mind: 
 
 The first two points are starting 
 notches, the third a good slow speed 
 running notch; the fourth and fifth are 
 intended for getting up high speed, and 
 the sixth notch for the most rapid travel 
 and best efficiency. The reversing 
 switch has three notches. The central 
 position cuts off all current from the 
 motors, and is the only one in which the 
 handle may be removed from the stand. 
 The other two notches control the direc- 
 tion of the movement of the car. The 
 handle must be thrown forward or back- 
 ward according as the car is to move 
 ahead or back; i. e., throw the handle in 
 
 109 
 
the direction the car is to move. A single 
 throw of the reversing switch reverses 
 the direction of the current in the arma- 
 ture, and such rude treatment should 
 never be resorted to except in case of 
 emergency, for it causes a severe strain 
 on the motors. If the field coils or arm- 
 ature of either of ycur mot( rs get too h t 
 you should report it, and you should 
 particularly notice if any one coil or part 
 is hotter than usual, as this will gen- 
 erally indicate something wrong. 
 
 You should notice particularly if your 
 car takes the proper speed on all points 
 of the switch. You should watch the 
 overhead line, and if you are near when 
 any wire breaks down, you should en- 
 deavor to tie it up to the nearest pole so 
 the line will not be grounded, after which 
 you she uld telephone to the power house 
 that it is O. K. 
 
 If from any cause the current is shut 
 off from the line causing a general stop- 
 page of cars, care must be taken to pre- 
 vent all cars from starting at the same 
 
 110 
 
time or immediately after the current is 
 turned on. After finding out that you 
 have no current do not keep trying your 
 controller to ascertain if your car will 
 start but go immediately and turn on 
 your lights, and if they don't burn you 
 have no current on the wire. Do not 
 star your car the moment your lights 
 begin to glow but wait until they burn 
 bright, then start and run slowly. 
 
 Economy Is Wealth. 
 
 Some motormen do not know the diff- 
 erence between a single reduction and a 
 double reduction motor. For the benefit 
 of those who do not know, I offer the 
 following explanation. 
 
 A single reduction machine has but 
 one pinion on the armature, and one 
 large gear on the axle. While a double 
 reduction machine has a pinion on each 
 end of the armature and two gears on the 
 axle. For speed and continuous service 
 the single reduction gives the most sat- 
 
 111 
 
isfactory results and consequently are 
 mostly in use at this writing. 
 
 A great many motormen running cars 
 at present, if asked what kind of machine 
 they were handling, single or double re- 
 duction would not be able to answer cor- 
 rectly, for the reason that they have 
 never had an opportunity to learn the 
 difference between the two. 
 
 There is another point I wish to speak 
 of that is generally understood by most 
 motormen but seldom practiced, and that 
 is economical running or the saving of 
 electricity. A motorman can, if he has 
 the inclination, take advantage of all 
 down grades on his run and save his 
 company many dollars in a month’s ser- 
 vice. There is no line with a time card 
 so figured up that will necessitate the 
 power being used continuously over the 
 entire route. There are lines now in 
 operation that call motormen to account 
 for the excessive use of current. 
 
 Some electric roads I have had the 
 pleasure to visit have adopted the method 
 
 112 
 
of placing a recording Watt meter on 
 each of their cars which registers the 
 amount of current used by each car, and 
 they know about what amount of current 
 is necessary with proper care on the part 
 of the motorman to make the days’ run, 
 and if the motorman in not economical 
 his empl yer has the means of knowing 
 it, and consequently his services are soon 
 dispensed with. 
 
 Never go back on the ship that carries 
 you over, but use every advantage at 
 your disposal to save the company who 
 furnishes you with the means of making 
 a living tor yourself and family. Save all 
 you can for them and it will save you 
 your position longer than it would other- 
 wise. 
 
 113 
 
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Conclusion. 
 
 In writing this book it has been the 
 authors intention, as has been previously 
 mentioned, to confine himself exclusively 
 to the working of street R. R. motors 
 and while I have not endeavored to ex- 
 plain each different type of motor (of 
 which their are a great many) separately, 
 still I think I have given you just such 
 information as you need, and such as you 
 have been searching for in vain. 
 
 This book has been written so as to be 
 utterly devoid of all theoretical or scien- 
 tific explanations, as it is not intended for 
 that class of men. It is gotten up for 
 Motormen only, written in Motormen’s 
 phrases, and confined to the principles of 
 these most popular machines, and as the 
 fundamental principles of all street R, R. 
 
motors are controlled by the same rules* 
 I think I am giving you something in this 
 book that will prove beneficial to you no 
 matter what type of motor you may be 
 handling. 
 
 And as a conclusion I would say that, 
 if you will commit the contents of this 
 little book to memory, and allow your- 
 selves to be governed by its teachings, 
 that you will, in the majority of cases, 
 meet with success in your attempts to 
 locate and overcome little troubles such 
 as most frequently present themselves to 
 you. And in connection with these teach- 
 ings, keep yourselves familiar at all 
 times with the rules and orders of your 
 superintendent, (which are usually posted 
 on the bulletin board), and there is little 
 doubt in my mind but what you will be 
 able to gain the endorsement of any su- 
 perintendent in whose employment you 
 may be, and at the same time you need 
 not fear the consequences of any examina- 
 tion which you may be subjected to as to 
 your ability as a Motorman. 
 
In writing this edition it is the author’s 
 intention to make it indispensable to 
 every man running an electric car; to 
 make his duty more of a pleasure than a 
 task. 
 
 As the author has served as an em- 
 ployee of several different companies, and 
 in all capacities, he feels competent, and 
 at the same time it is his duty to com- 
 municate to street railway employees the 
 following method of behavior and obe- 
 dience to their employer. 
 
 Speaking from experience, if you follow 
 these suggestions, you cannot fail to hold 
 your position. 
 
 It is true that companies owning and 
 operating electric railways are becoming 
 very strict, and consequently keep their 
 employees in a state of constant fear of 
 being discharged, which makes their duty 
 doubly arduous. 
 
 Every time an obnoxious order is posted 
 upon the bulletin board, or an order that 
 will seemingly make their duties more 
 unpleasant, there is a general kick among 
 
the men, and knowing that they have to 
 submit or step down and out, puts a rov- 
 ing disposition into their heads, thinking 
 they can find another road that is not so 
 strict. But this is a mistake, for you will 
 find them all the same. 
 
 Nine-tenths of all the men running on 
 cars are always looking for and trying to 
 locate the superintendent or his assistant, 
 and I don’t know of a case where any good 
 came of this, for if you know the exact 
 location of these distinguished gentlemen, 
 you will commit yourself a thousand times 
 to a spotter, thinking you are O. K. The 
 ends of every street car line are seemingly 
 left unguarded, and are, so far as the 
 superintendent is concerned. But don’t 
 forget that he has the means of knowing 
 every move you make, while you think 
 you are safe. Therefore, if you wish to 
 retain your position, or even if you do not 
 wish to retain it, you had better adhere to 
 the following rules, and you can always 
 obtain another position in case you wish 
 a change. Kemember that when a com- 
 
pany employs you, it does not only em- 
 ploy you to run its cars, but to run them 
 according to its plans and dictation, and 
 knowing that you have to conform to its 
 rules and regulations or leave, I will say 
 go to the bulletin board and familiarize 
 yourself perfectly with all rules and 
 orders, and when you start out of the car 
 house with your car, you do so with the 
 knowledge that you are going out to work 
 for your family or yourself, at so much an 
 hour, or a monthly salary, as the case may 
 be. Go out resolved to live up to every 
 order and rule laid down by the company. 
 Lay all ideas and notions of your own of 
 running a car aside, and adhere strictly 
 to their way, and the way they pay you 
 for. By so doing you have dispensed 
 with all fear of being discharged for dis- 
 obedience of orders, for they certainly 
 cannot discharge you for obeying their 
 own orders. 
 
 If you discharge your duties accord- 
 ing to this doctrine, you can face the Su- 
 
perintendent at any time without fear of 
 having incurred his displeasure. 
 
 If you should in the discharge of your 
 duties commit yourself, or do something 
 that you feel that you are to blame for, 
 at your first opportunity go to the Sup- 
 erintendent and tell him the exact truth 
 of the matter, or trouble in question, and 
 if there is a spark of manhood in him he 
 will set you right by requesting you to be 
 careful in the future. 
 
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