m BBiMBJmm >k v \ % % f ,4 : x V iAK)R lOHEPK J. L I B R.AR.Y OF THE U N I VERSITY Of ILLI NOIS cjoo.2. HIST. SURVEV ' r Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign http://www.archive.org/details/unfortifiedboundOOdela THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY V~7 C L -ft £ **->> THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY A Diary of the first survey of the Canadian Boundary Line from St. Regis to the Lake of the Woods by MAJOR JOSEPH DELAFIELD American Agent under Articles VI and VII of the Treaty of Ghent From the original manuscript recently discovered EDITED BY Robert Mcelroy Professor Emeritus of Oxford University and former Professor at Princeton University THOMAS RIGGS United States Commissioner, International Boundary Commission, United States, Alaska and Canada, and former Governor of Alaska PRIVATELY PRINTED IN NEW YORK 1943 c^ \ To Brig. Gen. John Ross Delafield, President of Dela- field Family Association, Inc., by whose kind permis- sion we were allowed to use the collection of family manuscripts, in addition to the large collection in the National Archives, without any restrictions whatsoever. CONTENTS Page Introduction 3 The Diary Book One 135 Book Two 169 Book Three 191 Book Four 217 Book Five 245 Book Six 266 Book Seven 296 Book Eight 323 Book Nine 335 Book Ten 359 Book Eleven 388 Book Twelve 430 Index 469 ILLUSTRATIONS Facing page Major Joseph Delafield Frontispiece Section of Mitchell's Map, East, showing St. Croix River 1 6 A Delafield Survey showing Muddy Lake, St. Tammany, Island and Neebish Channels 64 The Oswald line from Isle Royal to Lake of the Woods 80 Facsimile of letter from John Adams to Joseph Delafield 88 Section of Mitchell's Map, West 96 The Triangle saved by Major Delafield as shown on a Revolutionary Map 1 1 2 Boundary claims of 1842, by England and America 128 Webster-Ashburton line, West, shown on a map surveyed under Acts VI and VII of Treaty of Ghent 144 Facsimile pages from the original Diary 224 Major Joseph Delafield as a young man 336 Map of Detroit Section in 1820, showing Grosse Island, Stony Island and Bois Blanc Island 352 AN HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION by Robert McElroy and Thomas Riggs INTRODUCTION THE RED -LINE MAPS To define a boundary is quite different from determining one. 1 The first attempt to define the entire boundary of the United States was made during the negotiation of the Peace of 1783, when certain of the negotiators marked on large maps red lines, designed to show where the territory of the United States was supposed to end and that of its neighbors to begin. Five such Red-Line Maps are still preserved, and others may yet be discovered. 2 I. The Franklin Red-Line Map has an especially interesting history. When the conclusion of the Provisional Articles of Peace became known, Count Vergennes, then chief of the French Council of Finance, sent to Franklin a copy of a map, with the request that he would mark the boundaries of the United States upon it. By whom the map was made does not appear, nor whether the maker was of English, French or other nationality. On the 6th of December, 1782, Franklin returned a map after having, as he said, marked on it the limits of the United States "with a strong red line." 3 This Red-Line Map, despite its obvious importance, was soon lost sight of. About the middle of the 19th Century Jared Sparks, having read Franklin's letter to Vergennes, had a search made among the map collections of the French Foreign Office, and at last found a map of North America by D'Anville, dated 1746, with a red line upon it, apparently drawn with a hair pencil or a pen with a blunt point, and apparently intended to indicate the boundaries of the United States. The red line was the only indication to justify the inference that this was the map marked by Franklin for 1 Secretary of State, Hamilton Fish, drew this distinction on February 23, 1877, when he wrote to President Grant: "This boundary to be determined was that defined in the Second Article of the Convention .... of October 20, 181 8." (Text: Campbell and Twining: Reports upon the Survey of the Boundary .... from the Lake of the Woods to the Summit of the Rocky Mountains, p. 5) On p. 6, Fish again drew the distinction. It has taken at least 26 international treaties to secure a national boundary fully determined. 2 The Franklin, the Jay, the Peel, the English, and the Steuben Red-Line Maps. 3 Wharton's Depl. Corrs. Amer. Rev. VI, 120. John Bassett Moore: Hist, and Digest of International Arbitrations, I, pp. 154-155. 4 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Vergennes, but Sparks, unconsciously illustrating the principle that researchers are always in danger of finding what they are looking for, jumped to the conclusion that he had found the lost Red-Line Map, which Franklin had marked for Vergennes on December 6, 1782. Whether or not he was justified in this conclusion, it is certain that this Sparks Red-Line Map followed the British rather than the American claim. 4 As Franklin is known to have demanded both Canada and Nova Scotia, in his preliminary talks with Sir Richard Oswald before his fellow commissioners arrived, one is inclined to doubt the likelihood of his having sent Vergennes a map following England's claims. II. A second Red-Line Map, signed by John Jay, one of the Com- missioners of 1783, was brought to light a year later, in 1843, D Y J a y' s son, and is now preserved in the New York Historical Society. It is a very large copy of Mitchell's Map of 1 755, and the entire boundary of the United States is marked by a clear red line. It also shows a boundary line which Jay had proposed in October, 1782, "along the middle of the St. John River from its mouth to its source," meant, apparently, to show where the northwest angle of Nova Scotia and the Highlands mentioned in the treaty actually lay. 5 "If the map of Mr. Jay .... had been disclosed to the world," comments a clipping of later date, but still attached to Jay's statement, now in the New York Historical Society, "England would not have continued .... to maintain the pretensions to which she adhered 'till the very moment of the signature of the Treaty of Washington, and .... jeopardized the peace of two great nations." Webster and Gallatin, according to the same authority, "pronounced the map of Mr. Jay the most important and best authenticated document that has appeared." 6 III. In April, 1843, , vvh.ile Albert Gallatin and Daniel Webster were discussing the newly acquired Jay Map at a seance at the New York Historical Society, Sir Robert Peel was announcing to the House of Commons the discovery of a third Red-Line Map, bearing the words: "boundary as described by Mr. Oswald." 7 This, John Bassett Moore 4 Mills: British Diplomacy and Canada, p. 702. 6 See words of Treaty of 1783, on page 1 1 following. Mr. Gallatin later used Jay's Map, if we may trust the clipping attached to Jay's statement in the New York His- torical Society, "to prove where the northwest angle of Nova Scotia and the Highlands of the treaty were. These it fixes beyond cavil, by showing where the source of the St. John .... was, and establishing its position at the source of the Madawaska,ac- cording to the course assigned to that river on Mitchell's Map." 6 Clipping enclosed with Jay's declaration in folder at New York Historical Society, dated April 24, 1843. The name of the paper is not given. 7 The Jay Red-Line Map also has written on it "Mr. Oswald's line." INTRODUCTION 5 has confidently pronounced "the veritable copy of Mitchell's Map, used in the negotiations of 1782, with Oswald's line, and also the line finally agreed on, marked upon it." Sir Robert Peel, in his discussion of this Red-Line Map, if we may trust the testimony of a clipping filed with Jay's Map in the New York Historical Society, declared the con- viction that the claims then being urged on behalf of America were not well-founded, and that he attached little importance to the Frank- lin Red-Line Map which Sparks had just discovered. 8 IV. Lieutenant Colonel Mills in an erudite article, British Diplomacy and Canada, 9 distinguishes two additional Red-Line Maps, which he calls The English Red-Line Map and Steuben's Copy of Mitchell's Map. The first shows the British claim marked in "faint red crayon," and was found in the State Paper Office in 1841, 10 listed as the map used by Oswald. It was alluded to by Palmerston in a speech of March 21, 1842, 11 and by Lord Fitzmaurice in his Life of Shelburne, Vol. Ill, p. 295 and p. 324. "It is still preserved in the Colonial Office," Col. Mills adds, "but shows nothing to prove when its red line was inserted." Colonel Mills feels that it was probably in 1814 when a revision of the boundary was being considered. 12 V. Steuben's Copy of Mitchell's Map has a line showing the British claim, but the chief interest which it offers lies in the fact that Webster 8 i. e. In 1842. In the Peel statement, it was declared that on the copy he was describing, there were written in four different places the words, "Boundary, as de- scribed by Mr. Oswald." The Jay Map, in the New York Historical Society also has on it "Mr. Oswald's line." A clipping filed with this Jay Map adds this comment: "Sir Robert Peel also fully confirmed what Mr. Webster had said, as to the senti- ments of the English people, declaring that he, himself, did not believe that the claim of Great Britain was well-founded; nor does he attach any consequence, .... to the so-called Franklin Map, though he certainly does justice to Mr. Sparks' research in discovering what, notwithstanding all the inquiries of the British Government in Paris in 1827, na d eluded their investigations." 9 United Empire, October, 191 1, Vol. II (New Series) No. 10, p. 700. 10 Colonel Dudley A. Mills, R. E., in an illuminating article in United Empire of October, 191 1, says that on March 27, 1839, a reference was made in a debate in the Commons to a copy of Mitchell's Map in the British Museum, which showed the true boundary line between Canada and America. "Palmerston," he says, "promised inquiry, and had the King's Map (which had been placed in the Museum in 1823) removed from the British Museum to the Foreign Office in order to prevent the Americans getting hold of it Neither Peel, nor Aberdeen, nor Ashburton knew of its existence 'till 1843. In January of that year the Sparks Red-Line Map became known to the public. This seems to have caused a search for maps, and, either at the end of February, or early in March, Peel, Aberdeen and Ashburton saw, for the first time, the King's Map." On February 25, 1843, Aberdeen wrote to Croker: "We have found another copy altogether in favor of the American claim." 11 Fitzmaurice's William, Earl of Shelburn, Vol. Ill, p. 324. 12 Mills' British Diplomacy and Canada, p. 700. 6 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY used it in 1842, with Sparks' Red-Line Map, to convince the Maine Commissioners that it was wise to compromise Maine's claims as pro- vided in the Webster-Ashburton Treaty. These Red-Line Maps are important chiefly because the red lines showed where leaders of the two nations, Great Britain and the United States, considered the Canadian boundaries to lie in 1783; and be- cause of later disagreements upon that subject which threatened the peace established in 1783. But with all the Red-Line Maps, a definition of the boundary was not enough. Every mile of it has had to be de- termined; and the danger was, from the beginning, that one side or the other might seek to make force instead of reason the method of de- termination. WARS AND BOUNDARIES Nations have marked boundaries, and then fortified them, since Romulus and Remus drew the legendary line on the soil, which later became the City of Rome, and then forgot brotherly love in a battle over it. But only one line of first magnitude has remained, for all its history, unmarred by hidden mine or frowning bastion. That is the line which separates Canada and the United States. This was not due to absence of rival claims; but to the mental attitude of the two peoples, the Americans and the subjects of the King of England, who were resolved, almost from the first, to settle such matters by reason and not by war or threats of war. If each of the many disputes between these two nations, America and Great Britain, over questions of the territory lying along the Canadian border, had been decided by a war, or threat of war made by military establishments, we should probably know more about those disputes than we do know: for history has always inclined to pay more attention to war than to peace, and to employ its machinery of investigation chiefly in explaining why wars have come, how they have been conducted, and how the truce — for it has seldom been more than a truce — has been arranged. "Nothing is settled until it is rightly settled" has been an aphorism of philosophers since the days of Plato; and yet, men are only beginning to realize that rarely, if ever, have disputes, once submitted to the ordeal by combat, been settled justly, adjusted in such a way as to leave both parties content permanently to accept the verdict rendered by the God of War — if it is not blasphemy to anthropomorphize such a force into a personality called God. In the vast majority of cases, as in the most recent case called "the war to end war," each so-called peace has contained within itself the seeds of new wars, seeds which, in time, have sprouted and produced new crops of armed fighting men, bent upon securing a different verdict. INTRODUCTION 7 A DIARY INTERPRETING THE TREATY OF 1783 This battle of the Red-Line Maps, however, is only incidental to the present volume, which has as its main purpose, not a presentation of old material, but the publication, for the first time, of an important document respecting the determination of the Canadian boundary line between St. Regis, on the St. Lawrence, and the most northwesterly point of the Lake of the Woods, almost one-half of the boundary separating the United States from Canada. The document in question is the Diary of Major Joseph Delafield under whose personal direction, as Agent for the United States, most of that long section of the boundary line was determined. Delafield wrote also most of the documents which give, officially, the history of those surveys, and which are all 13 pre- served in the National Archives at Washington. But he was careful to make his Diary supplementary, and not a mere repetition of that official material. It, therefore, has a human interest, which is lacking in the official documents produced by the Commission under the VI and VII Articles of the Treaty of Ghent. 14 The present introduction to the text of Major Delafield's Diary is in no sense a history of the long Canadian-American boundary dis- putes. Such a history would require not pages but volumes. This in- troduction sketches only such portions of that history as are needed for an understanding of the value of Major Delafield's work, and the interest of his Diary. His work was that of interpreting certain necess- arily vague boundary clauses of the Treaty of 1783 into definitely determined boundary lines, "upon the ground of reciprocal advantages and mutual convenience," to quote the words of that treaty itself. 13 A few items were missing when the documents were removed from the State Department to the new National Archives Building on Pennsylvania Avenue: but the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, in March, 1932, procured photo- stat copies of these items from originals held in Great Britain and presented them to the Department of Archives. See National Archives, Folder marked "Northern Boundary, Treaty of Ghent, 1814, Article VII," which has the correspondence and a list of the items presented. 14 The manuscript of Major Joseph Delafield's Diary, no part of which has ever before been published, was first submitted, for an opinion, to Dr. Philip Ashton Rollins, whose well known book — The Discovery of the Oregon Trail — Robert Stuart Narratives — had given him high standing among authoritative writers upon subjects closely allied to those treated in the Diary. After a detailed, critical study of the entire text, Mr. Rollins declared the Diary, in his opinion, of great interest and permanent value, and urged that it be carefully edited, annotated and published. The editors wish gratefully to acknowledge Dr. Rollin's help, both because of his opinion of the Diary in general, which settled the question whether or not it should be published, and because of numerous editorial suggestions which have been care- fully followed. 8 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY The Diary is written in a small script in twelve thin booklets, each measuring about 3%" by 5%". These are bound in plain red leather and were evidently carried in Major Delafield's pockets, for the bind- ings are worn. The writing, which is in ink, is in good condition, considering the exposure and rough usage which these small books no doubt at times suffered. The entries must often have been written at night by uncertain light either in his tent or even in the open. In commenting upon the history of the construction of the Treaty of 1783, Andrew Stuart remarks, 15 "the rules to be applied to the con- struction of this Treaty are as much more large and liberal than those which obtain in the construction of compacts between private indi- viduals as the power and dignity of nations, and the interests represented by sovereignty, surpass, in kind and in magnitude, any rights or pos- sessions which can belong to individuals." "As in private contracts," he adds, "if the words of the instrument be clear and unambiguous, there is no room for interpretation — the words must be followed." But such a contention cannot be accepted without reservation; for the history of the hundred and fifty-six years that have passed since this landmark treaty of 1 783 was negotiated have made clear the fact that even treaties, perfectly clear and unambiguous in their wording, must be held subject to interpretation whenever "interpretation," or "re- interpretation," will insure greater justice. But the words of the Peace of 1 783 were, by no means, "clear and unambiguous," 16 especially the clauses dealing with boundaries. Indeed, they could not have been so, for, when that treaty was made, the borderland between America and Canada was unsurveyed, and the maps which professed to picture it were the result of gossip rather than science, the makers of them relying upon the general ignorance which prevailed, with respect to the countries in question. "All the old maps," said Anthony Barclay, 17 one of England's boundary commissioners 16 Andrew Stuart's Suscinct account of the Treaties and Negotiations between Great Britain and the United States of America relating to the boundary between the British Possessions of Lower Canada and New Brunswick, in North America, and the United States of America. Vol. 1, 1839: without title page, introduction or index, McGregor Collection, Alderman Library, University of Virginia. A second copy, bound with other short historical treatises and without date or name of the author, has been found in the New York Public Library. 18 Joseph Delafield, in his memorandum of December 11, 1821 (Journal of July 24, 1822, p. 91), says: "The phraseology of the Treaty of 1783, designating the boundary line, is certainly not 'in clear and precise terms.' This fact forms the very basis upon which this Commission rests." Major Delafield had great respect for the old maps which he held were "more accurate than those of the 19th Century." (Argument of October 5, 1826, p. 13. Mss. in National Archives.) 17 Doc. No. 451. House Docs., Vol. 11, 25 Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 102-113. INTRODUCTION 9 under the Treaty of Ghent, "are denied to be of any avail; they are known to have been made in ignorance, and to be replete with errors." "All of the maps .... published prior to the surveys of this commis- sion," he added, "are grossly erroneous upon the face of them .... nor does there appear any reason why the least confidence should be reposed in former maps." Barclay's account of how such maps had been made is illuminating: "the inquisitive traders or clerks, .... with the hope of improving their knowledge of the geography of the country, sketched from the eye as they proceeded. What could not be seen by them was frequently connected in their sketches with what they had seen, by means of the narratives of other persons, either white men or Indians, who might be inquired of to state what they knew. These sketches found their way into map-makers' hands, and were published, with the best puff they could invent, to give a little reputation." This was literally true, and the Commissioners of 1783 had to rely upon such blind guides, map-makers, who worked by faith and not by sight. We know, from the positive statements of John Adams and others who negotiated the Peace of 1783, for example, that the place names used in the treaty, such names as St. Croix River, Lake of the Woods, Royal and Phelipeau Islands, etc., some difficult to locate, as was the first, some definitely known as was the second, and some non-existent as was the fourth, were taken wholly from Mitchell's Map, 18 made in 1 755, when the geography of the Canadian- American borderline had been even less known than it was in 1783. Uncertainty, therefore, was the frame of mind in which those states- men approached the problems of geography in the Canadian boundary disputes. In November, 1782, for example, when the British Cabinet was considering a draft Treaty of Peace, this comment was written concerning the St. Croix River and its source: "The uncertain source of an uncertain river." 19 Mitchell's Map had been made, by authority of Governor Pownall, 20 18 In the Convention between the United States and Great Britain, signed in 1827, it was agreed that the negotiators of 1783 "regulated their joint and official proceed- ings" by Mitchell's Map (Mills' British Diplomacy in Canada, p. 698). There is also abundant earlier testimony to prove that fact. 19 Mills, Lt. Col. Dudley A.: British Diplomacy in Canada, p. 685. 20 A map of the British and French Dominions in North America, with the roads, distances, and extent of the settlements .... by John Mitchell. Authorized by John Pownall, Secy, to the Lords Commissioners for Trade and Plantations. London: Jefferys and Faden, 1755. Size, if joined: 76 x 52% inches. Scale, 9 miles=i inch. Engraved on copper by Thomas Kitchin. Colored by hand. A copy of part of the Mitchell Map is accessible in John Bassett Moore's Digest of io THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY as a war map, chiefly upon the bases of reports from Colonial governors as to the boundaries of their respective colonies. Later surveys proved that it was incorrect in many respects. For example, it pictures what it calls the "R. St. Croix," as running out of Kousaki Lake in a south- easterly direction, into the Bay of Fundy, and it pictures "Passama- cadie River" 21 as starting almost due south of Kousaki Lake and run- ning almost exactly paralleling the St. Croix as it runs also into the Bay of Fundy. 22 John Bassett Moore, in a very comprehensive survey of this section of Mitchell's Map, 23 says "while Mitchell's Map was correct in representing two streams of some magnitude as falling into the body of water commonly known as Passamaquoddy, it did not give them their true courses or positions, nor was there in the region any river com- monly known as the St. Croix. 24 This name originated with the early French explorers, 25 from whose charts it was transferred to later maps, on which it was given first to one stream and then to another; and in all these maps, including that of Mitchell, the topography of the region was inaccurate." In view of such facts it is fair to say that Lieutenant Colonel Dudley A. Mills, R. E. is too severe upon his own country when he speaks of "the felonious attempts of 1782-1841," to gain for Canada territory which was not hers by right. "Right" and "wrong" are large terms to apply to claims in an unsurveyed wilderness; and neither side is entitled to "the white gloves," as the following pages will prove. International Arbitrations, I, p. 1. There are two principal editions, both dated February 13, 1755. In 1775 Jefferys and Faden reprinted it (Mills' British Diplomacy in Canada, p. 698). 21 Passamaquoddy River. 22 Into what we now call Passamaquoddy Bay. 23 Moore's Digest of International Arbitrations, I, p. 3. 24 The St. Croix River was a name originally applied by Sieur de Monts, who, on June 24, 1604, had reached St. John River, and passing on along the coast had settled a small island in another river, calling his island St. Croix, a name later ex- tended to the river itself (Champlain, part I, p. I04etseq. quoted by Stuart, Treaties and Negotiations, p. 10). 26 In 1 749 the Marquis De La Gallissoniere, as Governor-General of New France, had sent a French Colony to Detroit and established a garrison there. He had after- wards caused the building of other forts, at Baie des Puans, des Scioux, de Toronto, and on the River de la Presentation, and had reinforced forts at Frontenac and at Niagara. Clearly, France was preparing to make the Canadian-American boundary line a series of fortresses (Ibid. p. 4). Gallissoniere's avowed purpose was to make the Ohio River, then called La Belle Riviere, a boundary of his French Canada (Stuart, p. 25) and later, in 1753, Marquis DuQuesne built several forts there (Ibid. p. 26). If France had succeeded in holding Canada, it seems clear that its boundary would have been, like all other great boundaries, a series of fortifications. Twenty-four millions of livres were actually drawn for that purpose before the taking of Quebec in September, 1759 (Ibid. p. 27). INTRODUCTION n The heart of the long contest over the Canadian boundary was not the ethical character of the Treaty of 1 783, but concerning its real mean- ing, the proper location of the boundaries, which it only indicated. The Commissioners of 1783, in wording their treaty, were, of course, conscious of the fact that the boundary line, which they verbally indicated, and which the various Red-Line Maps graphically indicated, would later have to be determined, but they described the line, as definitely as possible, in these words: "From the northwest angle of Nova Scotia, viz., from the angle which is formed by a line, drawn due north from the Source of the St. Croix River to the Highlands; along the said Highlands which divide those rivers that empty themselves into the River St. Lawrence, from those which fall into the Atlantic Ocean, to the north westernmost head of the Connecticut River; thence down along the middle 28 of that river," to the forty-fifth degree of north latitude; from thence by a line due west on said latitude until it strikes the river Iroquois or Cataraguy; thence along the middle of said river into Lake Ontario, through the middle of said lake until it strikes the communication by water between that lake and Lake Erie; thence along the middle of said communication into Lake Erie, through the middle of said lake until it arrives at the water com- munication between that lake and Lake Huron; thence along the middle of said water communication into the Lake Huron; thence through the middle of said lake to the water communication between that lake and Lake Superior; thence through Lake Superior northward of the Isles Royale and Phelipeau, 27 26 The term "middle" proved difficult to interpret in actual surveys. General Porter, in his report of December 12, 1827 (House Documents, Vol. 11, 25 Cong., 2nd sess; Doc. 451, pp. 4 and 5), explains its difficulty, illustrating it by an outline map. Barclay, in his report of October 25, 1827 (Ibid. p. 66), insists, after quoting Vattel, that "the true and only reasonable interpretation is this, the terms, used in reference to lakes, can apply only to the equi-distant line between the shores, for they cannot be said to have channels." 27 Barclay in his report (Doc. No. 451, House Docs., Vol. II, 25th Cong., 2nd Sess., p. 100), declares, after careful investigation, "there were never any islands in Lake Superior known as the Isles Phelepeaux, and .... there are no such islands as are represented by that name on the maps." He charged the American Agent with trying to make it appear that the Isle Pate, and others in the same bay, were what the Commissioners of 1783 (Art. II) had meant by Isles Phelipeaux, because if that could be established, "the line by the Kamanistequa River would be tolerably well secured for the United States, since those islands are so near to the mouth of the Kamanistequa River, and to the northwest shore of the lake, as scarcely to leave a doubt, after the line shall have been conducted to the north of them, that it should terminate its lake route in this bay by entering the Kamanestequa River." Barclay claims, (report, 100) that Delafield had himself declared that "the experience of all persons attached to the Commission will satisfy the board that no islands of this name (Phelipeaux) are now known to the oldest voyageurs and traders." He insisted that the "isles Phelipeaux had some definite place in the minds of the negotiators of the treaty of 1783," for, otherwise, they would not have mentioned them (Ibid. p. 101). 12 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY to the Long Lake; thence through the middle of said Long Lake 28 and the water communication between it and the Lake of the Woods, to the said Lake of the Woods; thence through the said lake to the most northwestern point thereof, and from thence on a due west course to the River Mississippi 29 " A glance at any modern map based on actual surveys will show, that by moving due west from the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods a line would never reach the Mississippi River: and a careful comparison of the words just quoted from the Treaty of 1 783, with maps representing ascertained geographical facts, will make it clear that those words raised problems which they failed to solve, for every section of the Canadian border. Major Delafield's Diary has definite relationship to such problems only in the section from St. Regis to the Lake of the Woods, but his work cannot be properly understood without some knowledge of the problems of every section. For the sake of clearness, therefore, it seems best to divide the whole Canadian boundary into four sections; and discuss the problems of each in turn: I. From the mouth of the St. Croix River, north and west to St. Regis, the point where the contemplated boundary line touches the St. Lawrence River. It was at this latter point that Major Delafield's connection with Canadian boundary problems began. A part of the problems belonging to this section was the division of the islands in Passamaquoddy Bay, but this does not concern us, either directly or indirectly. 30 II. From St. Regis to the northwesternmost point of the Lake of the 28 "Long Lake" was later identified with what we now call Pigeon Bay. (Jas. White, Boundary Disputes and Treaties; Reprint from Canada and its Provinces, edited by Adam Shortt and A. G. Doughty, Glasgow Books & Co., Toronto, 1914, p. 837.) 29 Here Mitchell's Map was in error, for a line due west from the Lake of the Woods could never intersect the Mississippi, whose source is south of the Lake of the Woods. (Jas. White's Boundary Disputes and Treaties, pp. 837 and 839. One contemporary map comments by an inscription: "The Mississippi River unknown in these parts.") 30 The question of ownership of the islands in Passamaquoddy Bay and the Bay of Fundy was left for later settlement. In 1801, Rufus King, then Minister at London, was instructed by Mr. Madison to adjust all unsettled boundaries by treaty with England, and was to secure "the jurisdiction of the Moose Island and the common navigation of the Bay and of the channels leading towards the sea, between Deer Island and the Island of Campobello." He made a treaty with Lord Hawkesbury in 1803, but it was not ratified (details in a History of the Negotiations of the Eastern and Northeastern Boundaries of the United States, p. 8). It was 181 7 before the Commissioners, John Holmes for America and Thomas Barclay for England, reached the final decision by which they gave Moose Island, on which Eastport now stands, Dudley Island, and Frederick Island in Passamaquoddy Bay, to the United States, and all other islands, including Grand Menan, to Great Britain. INTRODUCTION 13 Woods, the section determined chiefly under Major Delafield's direc- tion, and concerning which his Diary was written. III. From the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods to the 49th parallel and westward to the Rocky Mountains. Here the fixing of the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods meant the determination of the point at which the boundary line would strike the 49th parallel. IV. From the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, a section with which Major Delafield had no connection, but which must be briefly considered for the sake of completeness. I. THE ST. CROIX RIVER CONTEST The first contest over the American-Canadian boundary began in the very region where the negotiators of 1783 would naturally be supposed to have had most precise knowledge of geography, and most pressing interest, the far east. "A good frontier," as Walter Lippmann has said, "is one which is not felt to be very important." But this frontier, from the first, was felt to be "very important," and prompt measures were taken to make it definite. As soon as the Treaty of 1 783 was signed, therefore, plans were made for determining the identity of the St. Croix River, one of the landmarks designated in the treaty, which declared that the boundary should start "from the northwest angle of Nova Scotia, viz., that angle which is formed by a line drawn due north from the source of the St. Croix River to the Highlands." 31 The Jesuits' habit of erecting a cross at the mouth of the rivers which they visited had caused many rivers to receive the name St. Croix, and there were not less than three emptying into Passamaquoddy Bay, namely the Schoodiac, the Magaguadawic, and the Cobscook, all known, at one time or another, as the "St. Croix." 32 In 1784, part of Nova Scotia next to the United States was made into the Province of An excellent map picturing these Passamaquoddy Islands, and showing the Ameri- can and the British claims of 18 14, with Moose Island, Dudley Island and Frederick Island on the British side of the line of boundary appears in the appendix of a very rare pamphlet, A Compressed View of the Points to be Discussed in treating with the United States of America: With an appendix and two maps by Nathaniel Atcheson. A copy is in the Wm. Prescott Collection, Widener Library, Harvard. It was issued in London. Printed from J. M. Richardson, Cornhill, by T. Davison, Whitefriars, 1814. 31 Peace of 1783, Arts. I and II. 32 According to Indian testimony, not alone the Magaguadawic and the Schoodiac, but the Cobscook had, at times, been known as the St. Croix. The Cobscook is a salt-water inlet of Passamaquoddy Bay, called in 1 765 the St. Croix (History of the Negotiations in reference to Eastern and Northeastern boundaries, p. 6, and note). i 4 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY New Brunswick. Settlements were made by the King's subjects at St. Andrews and on the Schoodiac River, believed by them to be the St. Croix of the treaty, and the intended boundary. The Americans soon replied that the river Magaguadawic 33 was the river called St. Croix in that treaty. Clearly a contest was brewing, and, in the hope of avoiding it, John Jay suggested, on April 21, 1785, 34 that Commis- sioners be agreed upon to settle this and similar differences; but nothing came of the suggestion, save, perhaps, the plan to garrison exposed places in the areas claimed by the Americans, and an appeal to France to interpose under the guaranty clauses of the Treaty of 1 778. Evidently in approval of Jay's suggestion, and fearful of an armament race on the Canadian frontiers, Washington, on February 9, 1790, reported to the Senate that, in his opinion, all such questions should be settled promptly and amicably. 35 It was, however, 1794 before Jay concluded his famous treaty, providing, for the first time, a joint Com- mission to settle boundary disputes respecting Canada. 36 As "doubts have arisen," says the Fifth Article, "what river was truly intended under the name of the River of St. Croix, mentioned in the said treaty of peace, and forming a part of the boundary therein described, that question should be referred to the final decision of Commissioners to be appointed in the following manner, viz: "One Commissioner shall be named by His Majesty, and one by the President of the United States, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate thereof. And the said two Commissioners shall agree on the choice of a third: or if they cannot so agree, they shall each propose one person, and of the two names so proposed one shall be drawn by lot in the presence of the two original Commissioners. And the three Com- missioners so appointed shall be sworn impartially to examine and decide the said question, according to such evidence as shall respec- tively be laid before them, on the part of the British Government and of the United States. The said Commissioners shall meet at Halifax, and shall have power to adjourn to such other place as they shall think fit. They shall have power to appoint a Secretary, and to employ such surveyors or other persons as they shall judge necessary. The said Commissioners shall, by a declaration under their hands and seals, 33 (Stuart's Treaties and Negotiations, p. 45.) Magaguadawic is the spelling in the History of the Negotiations in reference to Eastern and Northeastern Boundaries, p. 68, Map. The space between the Schoodiac and the Magaguadawic was considerable in extent, but made more important by settlements of refugees from the States, St. Andrews having been built immediately after the Revolution. 34 Mss. in Department of State, quoted in Moore's International Arbitration, I, p. 5. 35 American State Papers, Foreign Relations I, pp. 90-91. 36 Jay's Treaty, Art., V; Text, Senate Docs., Vol. 47. 61 Congress; 2nd Sess., p. 593. INTRODUCTION 15 decide what river is the river St. Croix intended by the treaty. The said declaration shall contain a description of the said river, and shall particularize the latitude and longitude of its mouth and of its source. Duplicates of this declaration, and of the statements of their accounts, and the journal of their proceedings, shall be delivered by them to the Agent of His Majesty, and to the Agent of the United States, who may be respectively appointed and authorized to manage the business on behalf of the respective governments; and both parties agree to con- sider such decision as final and conclusive, so as that the same shall never thereafter be called into question, or made the subject of dispute or difference between them." In this paragraph we have the model Commission, and the model was used, again and again, as the ra- tionalization of the boundary proceeded. In constituting this Commission, President John Adams first named General Knox, who had been Washington's Secretary of War; but he declared himself unable to serve because of a definite, personal in- terest in the question at issue. David Howell, of Rhode Island, was then named and he accepted. England chose Thomas Barclay of Nova Scotia; and the two agreed upon Egbert Benson, of New York as the third. All three had been trained for the law; and they met as friends. The task of identifying the St. Croix was not easy, 37 as it involved a careful study of the terrain, of early records, both French and English, and, of course, the opinions of living men who had been con- cerned with the making of the Peace of 1783. Still living were John Adams, who became President while the Commission was organizing, and John Jay, formerly Chief Justice of the Supreme Court and now Governor of New York, and their opinions were sought. In May, 1 798, President Adams was asked by J. A. Sullivan, American Agent of the Commission, to state his views. The questions put to him have been preserved in the following document: 38 "The Agent for the United States has the honor to propose, that the Honorable Board will, in such manner as to the Commissioners shall appear proper and suitable, receive from John Adams, the President of the United States of America, his knowledge as to certain facts which are within his recollection, and which took place in the forming of the Treaty of Peace in 1782, and the truth of which facts may be expressed in answers to the following interrogatories, viz: 87 This question was set them: "What river was truly intended under the name of the river Saint Croix mentioned in the treaty of peace? . . . ." (Text of the Declara- tion of the Commissioners, signed October 25, 1798, Hunter Martin's Treaties and other International Acts, etc., Vol. II, p. 430.) 88 Mss. in New York Historical Society. 16 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY What maps, charts and documents of State were before the Commissioners at Paris in 1782, when the Second Article of the Treaty of Peace was agreed upon and formed? By whom were such maps, charts and documents produced? Were there any lines marked on any map by the Commissioners at that time and, if there were, on what map were the same marked and by whom was the map produced? Is the map now before you called Mitchell's Map the one on which those lines were marked, and are the lines on that Map those which were then marked? Was there any act of Parliament respecting the Boundaries of the late Province of Massachusetts Bay, produced or mentioned by the British Minister on that occasion? Was the former eastern boundary of the Province of Massachusetts Bay, then conceived of as the line on which the boundary of the United States was fixed, so far as the side line? The Agent for the United States further proposes that the evidence of His Excellency, John Jay, Esq. may be taken as to the same facts. J. A. Sullivan." From this last paragraph it appears certain that Jay was asked the questions which had before been put to President Adams. 39 Adams' replies have not been found, though his views were later recorded by Major Joseph Delafield, author of the present Diary. 40 Jay's replies are preserved in Mss. in the New York Historical Society, and are as follows: "The answers of John Jay who was one of the Commissioners by whom the treaty of peace between Great Britain and the United States was negotiated, to the interrogatories put to him at the instance 39 The questions asked Adams by J. A. Sullivan, American Agent under the Fifth Article of Jay's Treaty, were at first mislaid, but on May 4, 1 798, Sullivan sent a copy of them to Jay, now Governor of New York, with the following note of ex- planation. "Boston, 4th May 1798 Sir: I had the honor on the second instant to address a letter to your Excellency on the subject of your testimony regarding the Eastern boundary of the United States. I therein intimated that I had not the interrogations pro- posed to the President; having since found them I now enclose them. And am with great respect Your Excellency's Most humble Sert. J. A. Sullivan." 40 Reproduced in facsimile facing p. 88 of the present volume is John Adams' letter to Joseph Delafield. PART OF THE MITCHELL MAP OF THE BRITISH AND FRENCH DOMINIONS IN NORTH AMERICA, 1755 Tax, J c a. 2, x ST INTRODUCTION 17 of the Agent on the part of the United States, by the Board of Com- missioners for ascertaining the river St. Croix, intended in and by the said treaty: "The said John Jay having been duly sworn answers and says — That in the course of the said negotiations, difficulties arose respecting the eastern extent of the United States — That Mitchell's Map was before them and was frequently consulted for geographical informa- tion. That on settling the eastern boundary line described in the treaty, and of which the river St. Croix forms a part, it became a question which of the rivers in those parts was the true river St. Croix; it being said that several of them had had that name — That they did finally agree that the river St. Croix laid down on Mitchell's Map was the river St. Croix which ought to form a part of the said boundary line, but whether that river was then so decidedly and permanently adopted and agreed upon by the parties as conclusively to bind the two nations to that line, even in case it should afterwards appear that Mitchell had been mistaken, and that the true river St. Croix was a different one from that which is delineated by that name on his map, is a ques- tion or case which he does not recollect nor believe was then put or talked of. By whom in particular that map was then produced, and what other maps, charts and documents of state were then before the Com- missioners at Paris, and whether the British Commissioner then pro- duced or mentioned an act of Parliament respecting the boundaries of Massachusetts are circumstances which his recollection does not enable him to ascertain . It seems to him that certain lines were marked on the copy of Mitchell's Map which was before them at Paris: but whether the map mentioned in the interrogatory, as now produced, is that copy, or whether the lines said to appear on it are the same lines he cannot, without inspecting and examining it, under- take to judge. "To the last interrogatory he answers That for his own part he was of opinion that the eastern boundaries of the United States ought on principle of right and justice to be the same with the easterly boundaries of the late Colony or Province of Massachusetts Altho' much was said and reasoned on the subject, yet he does not at this distance of time remember any particular and explicit declarations of the parties to each other which would authorize him to say that the part of the said line (described in the treaty), which is formed by the river St. Croix, was mutually and clearly conceived and admitted to be also a part of the eastern boundary line of Massachusetts. He doubts there having then been very clear conceptions relative to the just and precise easterly extent of Massachusetts: for he has reason to believe that respectable opinions in America at that time considered 18 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY the river St. John as the proper eastern limit of the United States. John Jay Sworn this 21st May, 1798 before me Egbt Benson." Upon the basis of this and other carefully collected evidence, the Commission, in 1798, decided that the Schoodiac was the St. Croix 41 intended by the Commissioners of 1783, the basis of the decision being that the island of St. Croix, described by early French writers, as the place where De Monts' first settlement had been established, lay op- posite its mouth. This was a victory for the British: but it by no means settled the St. Croix dispute, as the Schoodiac (St. Croix) branches at some dis- 41 The St. Croix River is a name which originated with a French explorer from whose charts it was later transferred to maps; but it was one stream on one chart and another on other charts. In all these maps including Mitchell's there was little accurate detail. Of the two which Mitchell shows as flowing into the Bay of Fundy, the easterly one was known in 1782, twenty-seven years after Mitchell's Map was published, as Maguadavic, and the westerly as Schoodiac, Scoudiac or Schoodic. On Mitchell's Map of 1 755 they appear respectively as St. Croix and Passamacadie (Moore's Digest of Intl. Arbitrations, I, pp. 1 and 3). The original American Commissioner, Howell, had insisted that the Maguadavic was the river referred to as St. Croix in the Treaty of 1 783, and the discussion was continued until the autumn of 1 798, when Benson, as umpire, settled it by deciding that the Schoodic was the river "truly intended by that name (St. Croix) in the Treaty of 1783," and its western branch was the main river. Accordingly the boundary stone, indicating the point of departure for the line was erected at the headwaters of the most westerly source of the Schoodic (Stuart: Treaties and Negotiations, p. 47) . But when lines were run from the alleged sources of these two streams, due north, they brought into dispute 7 or 8 thousand square miles of territory (Moore's Digest of International Arbitrations, I, p. 4). Throughout this discussion the American Com- missioner Howell insisted that the Maguadavic was the St. Croix truly intended by the Treaty of 1783. The British Commissioner, Barclay equally insisted that it was the Schoodic River. The umpire, also American, in the end supported the British and the Schoodic was named as the St. Croix, and its western branch as the true and main river. A stone should have been erected at the westernmost source of the Schoodic, but this was not done: but the point of departure was instead fixed at the highest waters of the Cheputnaticook. "It is from this fatal source that all the difficul- ties which for the last 35 years have embarrassed the settlement of this most important question have arisen," comments Stuart (Treaties and Negotiations, p. 47). "It is this, and not any ambiguity in the Treaty of 1783," he adds, "which has protracted for so many years, and still keeps unsettled (written July 14, 1838), a negotiation which, if the point of departure had been properly placed at the highest headwaters of the westernmost source of the Schoodic, either would not have been at all necessary, or must have been settled in six months." INTRODUCTION 19 tance from its mouth, and the Commission was next called upon to determine which of these branches was intended by the treaty to be followed to the source of the St. Croix. This decision was important by virtue of a provision of the Treaty of 1783, that the boundary line should be drawn "due north from the source of the St. Croix River to the Highlands." Just where that "Highlands" really lay, was, as the American Agent pointed out, a question, which lay "on the wing of imagination," and would probably remain unsettled until the coming of another generation. The Commission, however, took first things first and attacked the problem of locating the source of the St. Croix. The American Commissioner, Howell, contended that the northerly branch, the Chiputnaticook, should be followed to the source of the St. Croix. Benson, the third member and the umpire, was inclined to the outlet of the Schoodiac Lakes as the "source " intended, but he finally joined with Barclay in accepting Howell's contention, thus giving the Americans the decision. After carefully marking the source of the St. Croix (the Chiputnaticook) by means of a stake hooped with iron, the Commission presented an unanimous report, on October 25, 1 798 and its work, which had consumed two and a half years, was ended. This agreement, when duly ratified by both nations, was to be "added to and made a part of the Treaty of Amity, Commerce, and Navigation," known as Jay's Treaty. There remained, in what we call Section I, the task of running the boundary due north to the Highlands, along the said Highlands to the northwesternmost head of the Connecticut River; thence down along that river to the forty-fifth degree of north latitude, and thence "due west on said latitude until it strikes the river Iroquois or Cataraguy" as the Treaty of Ghent provided. 42 But, before the Government had made arrangements for this work, Napoleon's sudden decision to sell Louisiana to the United States transferred the immediate attention of the two governments, America and England, to the west, and the question of the boundary line in the third section, Lake of the Woods to the Rocky Mountains, became the center of interest. 43 42 The Iroquois or Cataraguy is now called St. Lawrence. 43 Robert R. Livingston, who managed the purchase of Louisiana, is one of the few great Americans still lacking a biographer. Of his greatness there can be no question, whether character, ability or public service is taken as the test. He served upon the famous committee of five that drew up the Declaration of Independence. Later, as Chancellor of New York, he administered the oath of office to Washington. When his old friend, Jefferson, became President, Livingston was selected by him as Minister to France, and promptly sought to purchase New Orleans and West Florida. Suddenly, on April n, 1803, Talleyrand suggested selling the whole of Louisiana. Before the actual purchase was concluded, James Monroe joined Livingston as so THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY The boundaries of Louisiana were quite unknown, and when asked to define them Marbois answered, "You get all that France had by Ildefonso; it is a great bargain." At $15,000,000 it was a "great barg- ain," but one resembling the purchase of a pig in a poke. No one knew its boundaries, and when Marbois called Napoleon's attention to that fact, he replied that if there were not boundary uncertainties it would, perhaps, be wise to put some into the treaty. 44 Clearly, he thought that boundary difficulties might cause trouble between Eng- land and America and help to put the United States upon his side of the great contest, now clearly coming. 45 Even under such difficulties, however, Jefferson and the American people generally agreed with Marbois that they had a great bargain: and, despite his strict constructionist views, Jefferson assumed the right to make the purchase, and the people countenanced his usurpa- tion. 46 At once the wildest rumors began to circulate concerning the new purchase. From these President Jefferson constructed and sent to Con- gress the most fantastic message in American history, 47 and one which the opposing Federalists quite properly "ridiculed." Jefferson had long cherished a plan for the exploration of a route Special Envoy, and the two agreed to make the astonishing purchase. The formal negotiations with Barbe-Marbois were, however, left to Livingston. 44 "Si l'obscurite n'y etait pas, il serait peut-etre d'une bonne politique de l'y mettre" (Barbe-Marbois, Histoire de la Louisiane, pp. 31 1-3 12). 46 While discussing his Louisiana plans with Talleyrand, Napoleon made a remark, illustrative of the methods of dictators: "My designs on the Mississippi will never be officially announced, till they are executed. Meanwhile the world, if it pleases, may fear and suspect, but nobody will be wise enough to go to war to prevent them. I shall trust to the folly of England and America to let me go my own way in my own time." In quoting this striking paragraph, Simon M'Gillivray, in his pamphlet, On the Origin and Progress of the Northwest Company of Canada, (London, Cox, Son and Baylis, 181 1), pp. 23-25, says: "It must not excite surprise should the French Govern- ment resume possession of Louisiana; for there is reason to believe it was not sold to the United States but only hypothecated." Clearly, M'Gillivray believed that Na- poleon had intended to place Louisiana only temporarily in American hands. His plans, however, failed to be "executed," He ended his career at St. Helena, and Louisiana remained American. 46 Simon M'Gillivray, in his Origin and Progress of the Northwest Company of Canada, p. 20, complains: "After the acquisition of Louisiana by the United States, all intercourse to the west of the Mississippi was prohibited to all persons who would not abjure their allegiance, and become citizens of the United States." As the North- west Company planned, to quote M'Gillivray p. 30, "to form upon the great river Columbia .... a general establishment for the trade of the adjacent country," such a belief, true or false, tended to embitter relations between England and America. 47 McMaster, II, p. 631, gives a graphic description of the message and its reception. INTRODUCTION 21 overland to the Pacific, and had discussed it with Meriwether Lewis. Indeed, on June 30, 1803, he had sent Lewis definite instructions for a contemplated expedition. Now, under the added importance which the Louisiana purchase furnished, he allowed Lewis to select a com- panion to help with the explorations, and Lewis selected William Clark, of Louisville. The details of the resulting Lewis and Clark Expedition do not concern us here: but its report, made toward the end of 1 806, served to emphasize the value of the vast area toward the Columbia River, without determining its boundaries. In the same year, 1806, Monroe and Pinckney, for America, met Lords Holland and Auckland, of Great Britain, in London, to discuss again the old questions of the Canadian boundaries. Western as well as Eastern boundaries, of course, came up for consideration, and England proposed a line running along the forty-ninth parallel from the Lake of the Woods to the Rocky Mountains: but Monroe and Pinck- ney were of the opinion that the 49th parallel would not touch the Lake of the Woods. 48 They suggested instead a line from the north- western point of that lake, running due north or south, as the facts should determine, until the forty-ninth parallel should be reached, and from the point of contact due west to the mountains. This not meeting with British approval, Monroe suggested that the words, "Stony Mountains" be omitted, and a clause inserted, "as far as the respective territories of the parties extend in that quarter." In the end a treaty was agreed upon, but Jefferson refused even to submit it to the Senate, because it contained no provision concerning impressment or indemnity for spoliations on American Commerce, which were then the dominant issues. The War of 181 2 soon caused the questions of boundary to be laid aside 49 in favor of more pressing issues. 48 James White, in his Boundary Disputes, p. 841, calls attention to the fact that "this proposal was an official acknowledgement by Great Britain that, by the Treaty of Utrecht, the 49th parallel formed the boundary between the Hudsons Bay Company's territory and Louisiana." Simon M'Gillivray, in his Notice respect- ing the boundaries between His Majesty's Possessions in North America and the United States (London, B. M'Millan, 181 7), pp. 4-5, says of this Monroe-Holland negotiation: "The writer .... having at the time in his possession an original survey of the country between the Lake of the Woods and the source of this Mississippi, made by Mr. Thompson, geographer to the Northwest Company, was called upon to pro- duce the same, and had opportunities of hearing some of the discussions " He assured the negotiators that "a line from the Lake of the Woods to the source of the Mississippi would run about SSW, while a line running due west would of course never intersect the Mississippi." 49 Boundary questions were not again resumed until the Treaty of Ghent began to be negotiated (61st Cong., 2d Sess., 1909-1910, Senate Docs., Vol. 47, pp. 614-618). Articles IV, V, VI, and VII of that treaty required elucidation and Commissioners 22 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY When that war opened, John Jacob Astor was starting his fur Com- pany's establishment at Astoria, and had made good progress. Rumors soon came that a British sloop of war, the Raccoon, was in the Columbia River, and Astor decided to sell his establishment to the Northwest Company for $40,000 in Montreal notes, 50 a fact which was appar- ently unknown to the Commissioners when they met at Ghent to negotiate the Peace of 1814. 51 It soon became known in America, however, and was regarded as a sale under duress. There was an in- were appointed for each. The "declarations of the Commissioners under Art. IV," dated Nov. 24, 181 7, appear in the above vol. on pp. 619-620, signed J. Holmes and Theo. Barclay. But the decision touches only the islands off the east coast of North America. 60 The great depot of the Northwest Company was "at the Great Carrying-place, on the boder of Lake Superior, a few miles west of the mouth of the Pigeon River in Lake Superior." (Doc. No. 451, House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong. 2nd Sess. pp. 126, 129, 131 ) "From a strong belief, founded on the assertions of the United States officers at the garrison of Michilmackinac, .... that the above depot was within the limits of the United States, and they would levy heavy duties on all merchandise, stores, etc., imported thereto, and on all furs, etc., exported therefrom, .... the said Company was obliged to examine the countries to the northward and eastward of the said Great Carrying-place, for another route to the interior countries" (Ibid. .126). The experiences of Jean Baptiste Pomainville, who searched for a route from Lac La Pluie to the mouth of the Dog River, in Lake Superior, called Kamanistegua, of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, to the northeast of Pigeon River, of William McGillivray, from Kamanistegua (by the Dog River) to Lac La Croix, and others, are recorded in a series of depositions by these men, in Appendix H. House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2nd Sess., pp. 126-131. They all failed to find any practicable route save the "old route by the Great Carrying-place." Pomainville, in his deposition, says that the Company did transfer its depot from the Great Carrying-place, to Kamanistegua, on account of duties threatened to be levied by officers of the United States. MacGillis, in his deposition, declares that the new route thus made necessary was more dangerous, of greater length, and more laborious than that by the Great Carrying-place, Pigeon River, and Lac La Croix (Ibid. p. 129), and Cameron's deposition confirms this view (Ibid. p. 130), as does McGillivray's (Ibid. p. 131). The change of routes therefore seems an acknowledgement that the old route by the Great Carrying-place was American. 51 During the Ghent negotiations, Great Britain suggested a revision of the boundary line, her Commissioners being directed to try for a line extending westward from the St. Croix monument, "along the high ridge of mountains and running a westerly course until they abut upon the heights which form the present boundary," as Lord Bathurst expressed it (Bathurst to the Commissioners, Oct. 18, 1814, quoted, Mills, D.A., British Diplomacy in Canada, p. 686) .This would manifestly have meant a large loss of territory claimed by America: and the Duke of Wellington rejected the suggest- ion with the words, "I think you have no right, from the state of war, to demand any concession of territory from America." (Wellington to Lord Liverpool, November 9, 181 4, Ibid. p. 686, and in Adams' Gallatin, pp. 538-539). The claims of the two Com- missions appointed under Art. V. of the Treaty of Ghent were so divergent that sep- arate reports were signed, the nature of which appear on a sketch on p. 687 of Dudley A. Mills' British Diplomacy in Canada. Mills concludes "the British claim had no found- ation of any sort or kind" (Ibid. p. 687). INTRODUCTION 23 dignant clamor for its return, and, in July, 18 15, President Madison served notice upon the British Charge that America would send a vessel to take back Astoria. 52 It was, however, over two years before the Ontario actually sailed from New York, October, 181 7, with her course planned around Cape Horn. Her departure drew from Mr. Charles Bagot (British Minister at Washington) the statement that England considered the Columbia River and the regions adjacent, "His Majesty's dominions." 53 But His Majesty's Government did not support this claim, so redolent of renewed ill feeling, and, on October 6, 18 1 8, Astoria was peacefully restored to American Commissioners. 54 Peace with England had been made and maintained: but it took years to soften the hatred with which each nation regarded the other, and that fact made the more remarkable the next two developments, known as the Rush-Bagot Agreement for disarmament on the lakes, and the Convention of 1 8 1 8, with reference to the boundary from the Lake of the Woods to the Rocky Mountains. The Rush-Bagot Agreement was the result of an evolution, begin- ning certainly as far back as 1 794. As early as May 6, 1 794, Randolph, then Secretary of State, had suggested to Jay, just starting on his precarious mission in England, "in peace no troops to be kept within a limited distance of the lakes." 55 Although no record is known proving that Jay actually urged such a policy while negotiating his treaty, both the American and the British Governments had continued to plan in that direction: and we know that Lord Castlereagh himself, in a draft of instructions to the British Commissioners of Ghent, not used but significant of his attitude at the time, had said, 56 "In order to put an end to the jealousies which may arise by the construction of 62 "Was it understood distinctly at Ghent," wrote Madison to Gallatin, on Sep- tember 11, 181 5, from Montpelier, "that the restoration of the mouth of the Columbia River was included in the general articles, and is it possible that orders have been sent thither from G. B. (Great Britain) to that effect?" (Text: Gallatin's Papers in N. Y. Historical Society.) 63 McMaster, IV, p. 473. 64 The Treaty of Ghent provided for the status quo ante bellum, which, of course, meant that Astoria should be returned to the Americans (Thos. A. Bailey's Diplo- matic History of the American People, p. 228, note). The Treaty of Ghent provided that in case of differences between the Commissioners arbitration should be employed to adjust them. But it was September 29, 1827 before a Convention was signed, arranging for such arbitration. The Treaty of Ghent, furthermore, marked the end of any disposition to treat America as less than sovereign: and England has since ceased to consider her foreign. 86 Quoted, Callahan, J. M: The Neutrality of the American Lakes, p. 60. 66 America, in Public Record Office, London, vol. 128. Quoted, Callahan, p. 61, who says, "This unused draft is not dated, but was probably written in July, 1814." 24 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY ships of war on the lakes, it should be proposed that the two contract- ing parties .... reciprocally bind themselves not to construct any ships of war on any of the lakes; and should entirely dismantle those which are now in commission, or are preparing for service." Again the beneficent idea was stated, only to be discarded: and Castlereagh had actually instructed the Commissioners, on August 14, 1814, 57 to declare "that the views of the British Government are strictly defensive," so far as the Canadian frontier was concerned. "They consider the course of the lakes, from Lake Ontario to Lake Superior," he added, ". . . . the natural military frontier of the British possessions in North America." Clearly, Castlereagh thought he foresaw a period of unfriendliness, and wished to insure ample, and more than ample provision for the defense of England's remaining American possessions. In carrying out these instructions, the British Commissioners at Ghent brought the negotiations to what seemed almost a deadlock: but on September 6, 18 14, Gallatin suggested a "stipulation for dis- arming on both sides of the lakes." Adams objected that their instruc- tions did not warrant such a proposal. Later, the British Commis- sioners hinted that, if the Indian question could first be settled, 58 they would be prepared to make a proposal, "entirely founded on principles of moderation and justice." 59 Assuming that this would be mutual re- duction of armaments on the lakes, the American Commissioners agreed, on September 26, "to meet such a proposition with perfect reciprocity," 60 and on October 26, Gallatin asked Monroe this ques- tion, "Supposing the British do propose a mutual restriction, .... 87 The demands of the British, when the Ghent negotiations opened, included, according to Thomas A. Bailey (A Diplomatic History of the American People, p. 147), a demand that "the United States was never thereafter to maintain either fortifications or armed naval vessels on the Great Lakes." Nathaniel Atchinson, in his Compressed view of the points to be discussed in treating with the United States of America (London, 1814), had boldly declared, p. 10: "It should be stipu- lated that no vessel belonging to the Americans, exceeding .... twenty or thirty tons .... should be suffered to navigate any of the lakes, and that no fortifications of any kind should be erected upon their borders, or the borders of the St. Lawrence, or upon any of the waters that fall into them from the American side; whilst the right of the British in these respects should be reserved to be exercised without restriction "It was his opinion that "we (Great Britain) should have possession of Lake Champlain, and the waters descending into it; and of the adjacent country; and of the southern side of all the Great Lakes . . . together with Lake Michigan." (Ibid. p. 9) 68 The Treaty of Ghent required the United States to restore to the Indians who had sided with England all the possessions, privileges and rights which had been theirs in 181 1 (American State Papers, Foreign Relations, III, p., 745 ff. quoted, Moore, David R., Canada and the United States, 181 5-1830, p. 10). 69 Callahan, p. 63. 60 Callahan, p. 64. INTRODUCTION 25 either partial or total, should we agree?" No answer is recorded; and the Treaty of Ghent was concluded without the nighly desirable agree- ment which each side had clearly had in mind, namely disarmament on the lakes. 61 But the idea persisted after the peace was signed. In- deed, the day before it was proclaimed, 62 Mr. Jackson, of Virginia, offered a resolution in Congress instructing the Naval Committee to inquire and report to what extent the naval equipment on the lakes could be reduced without endangering the public interest. 63 At first it looked as though none of the vessels could be spared, and there was little of the earlier spirit of disarmament discernible. The lakes during the recent war, had seen fierce fighting, in which America had made at least a creditable showing. She had, therefore, come out of the war with a legend of victory which caused her citizens to believe that the new Republic had proved that, on the sea, she could match the might of the world's greatest naval power, a tradition which Admiral Alfred T. Mahan in later years effectively shattered, in his Sea Power in its Relations to the War of 1812. 64 The inevitable result of this belief in America's superior naval power, this tendency to "blow their horn too much," as a British traveler expressed it, was a movement to construct vessels for service on the lakes. 65 This helped the sudden rise of naval appropriations which exceeded $8,500,000 in 18 15. By 181 6, it began to look as though the United States was preparing for a naval race with England on the lakes, a prospect which could not fail to alarm the sane leaders of both nations, who began tentative sug- gestions for permanently protecting, not the nations from one another, 61 On October 17, 1814, Gouverneur Morris wrote to William Welles: "It would be wise to stipulate that neither party should have ships of war on the lakes or forts on their shores. Both are idle and useless expense." (Callahan, p. 64) 62 The Treaty of Ghent was concluded December 24, 1814, passed Senate February 16, 1815, signed by the President, February 17, 1815, ratifications exchanged, February 17, 1815, proclaimed February 18, 1815 (text: Senate Docs., Vol. 47,61 Cong., 2 Sess., pp. 612-619). 63 House Journal, Vol. 9. Quoted, Callahan: Cit. Opp. p. 65. 64 The list of U. S. Naval force in 1814 is given on p. 308, American State Papers, Naval Affairs, I. In October 3, 1814, W. Jones reported to the Senate his estimate of the meaning of Captain MacDonough's victory in Plattsburg Bay, on Lake Champlain, "It is not surpassed by any naval victory on record." (Ibid., p. 308) 65 On April 13, 1815, Marquis Wellesley confidently assured the British House of Lords that the war had caused America to begin working toward a great military and naval establishment on the lakes and frontier (Callahan, p. 56, note 3). But al- ready, on February 27, 18 15, the President had signed a bill providing for the sale of America's lake fleet, save the few vessels required for revenue service (U. S. Statutes at Large, III, p. 21 7). Clearly instead of a "great military and naval establish- ment on the lakes," there was beginning a movement for disarmament on the lakes. 26 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY but the lakes, and the whole Canadian boundary line, from militariza- tion. Both nations had formidable squadrons upon the lakes. In 1814, the American Naval Department had reported 16 vessels on Lake Ontario, 10 on Lake Erie, 3 on Lake Champlain: and several more were launched in 1814. 66 Plans called for new ships-of-the-line, equal in size to ocean vessels, and the Treaty of Ghent had failed to do any- thing to stop the movement. 67 But, on February 27, 1815, President Madison signed an act of Congress, which provided for the sale of America's lake fleet, save those needed for revenue service. 68 Clearly, the old movement was re-beginning for the demilitarization of the lakes; and before the end of 181 5 it had gone so far that only 3 small vessels on Lake Ontario, and 2 on Lake Erie remained, 69 the hope being that England would join in the movement. But, when 18 16 arrived, England had failed to fulfill this hope. Her lakes navy greatly exceeded the American, 70 and her Government, encouraged by the Canadian naval officers, was planning for a permanent naval force on the lakes. At this point, American statesmen began to suggest the idea of 66 American State Papers, Naval Affairs, I, pp. 308, 380. 67 Sprout: Rise of American Naval Power, p. 90. 68 " Enacted, That the President of the United States be ... . authorized to cause all armed vessels thereof on the lakes, except such as he may deem necessary to en- force the proper execution of the revenue laws, to be sold or laid up " (Stat- utes at Large, U. S. A., pp. 3, 217). 69 American State Papers, Naval Affairs, I, p. 380, B. W. Crowningshield to the Senate, Jan. 2, 1816. One was on Lake Champlain which "could be prepared for service in a few days" (Ibid. p. 380). 70 On September 1, 181 6, Charles Bagot, the British Minister to Washington, stated His Majesty's naval force on the lakes of Canada as follows: On Lake Ontario, six vessels not ready for service, or laid up and "The Montreal, in commission, carry- ing 6 guns .... Star, carrying 4 guns, .... and unfit for service; Netley, schooner carrying no guns There are, besides the above," Bagot added, "some row-boats, capable of carrying long guns, two 74 gun ships on the stocks, and one transport of 400 tons " On Lake Erie, "Tecumseh and Newark, carrying 4 guns each; and Huron and Sauk, which can carry 1 gun each " On Lake Huron, "The Confiance and Surprise schooners, which may carry one gun each . . . ." On Lake Champlain, "Twelve gun-boats; ten of which are laid up in ordinary, and the other two (one of which mounts 4 guns, and the other 3) used as guard-boats. Besides the above, there are some small row-boats, which are laid up as unfit for service. Keel, stem, and stern-post of a frigate laid down at Isle aux Noix." Monroe at once sent Bagot a list of America's force on the lakes (Monroe to Bagot, November 7, 181 6, American State Papers, Foreign Affairs, IV, p. 205), promising to "prevent any augmentation of it beyond the limit of the British naval force on those waters." INTRODUCTION 27 making the lakes a completely unarmed area. The suggestion was ap- parently first made by Mr. Adams, 71 as Charles Bagot, on July 26, 18 16, wrote to Secretary Monroe: 72 "Mr. Adams having intimated to His Majesty's Government that it was the wish of the Government of the United States that some understanding should be had, or agree- ment entered into, .... in regard to their naval armaments upon the lakes, .... I have the honor to acquaint you that I have received Lord Castlereagh's instructions to assure you that His Royal Highness, the Prince Regent, will cheerfully adopt, in the spirit of Mr. Adams' sug- gestion, any reasonable system which may contribute to the attain- ment of objects so desirable to both states " Monroe at once replied, suggesting a "reasonable system" 73 namely, "to confine the naval forces to be maintained on the lakes, on each side, to the following vessels: that is, on Lake Ontario, to one vessel not exceeding 100 tons burden, and one eighteen pound cannon; and on the upper lakes, to two vessels of like burden and force; and on the waters of Lake Champlain, to one vessel not exceeding the like burden and force; and that all other armed vessels on those lakes shall be forthwith dismantled; and, likewise, that neither party shall build or arm any other vessel on the shores of those lakes. "That the naval force thus retained by each party on the lakes shall be restricted in its duty to the protection of its revenue laws, the trans- port of troops and goods, and to such other services as will in no re- spect interfere with the armed vessels of the other party." The definite reductions did not occur until Monroe had become President in 181 7, and John Quincy Adams Secretary of State; but they then followed the lines which Monroe had suggested, on August 2, 1 8 16, in his note to Bagot. Despite England's undoubted superiority at the moment, so far as lake armaments were concerned, England, of course, knew that the American territory bordering the lakes was being settled much faster than the corresponding Canadian lands, and that, in the end, it would 71 On November 16, 181 5, Secretary Monroe had written Adams, the Minister at London, authorizing him "to propose to the British Government such an ar- rangement respecting the naval force to be kept on the lakes by both Governments as will demonstrate their pacific policy, and secure their peace. He (the President) is willing to confine it, on each side, to a certain moderate number af armed vessels, and the smaller the number the more agreeable to him." (Instructions to U. S. Ministers, No. 8, Callahan, p. 68) On January 25, 1816, Adams laid the suggestion before Castlereagh, quoting Adams' Memoirs, Vol. Ill (Callahan, p. 68). 72 Full text, American State Papers, Foreign Relations, IV, p. 203. 73 Monroe to Bagot, August 2, 1816 (text: American State Papers, Foreign Affairs, IV, p. 203. 28 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY be difficult, if not impossible, to maintain her superiority on the lakes. But, in addition, she knew that it would be an advantage to avoid a naval race, with the inevitable perpetuation of unfriendly spirit. Her expenses and debts, furthermore, were heavy, and her people were demanding retrenchment. All of these things worked together to pro- duce the astonishing result which, on April 6, 1818, President Monroe was able to report to the Senate in these words: "An arrangement having been made and concluded between the United States Govern- ment and that of Great Britain, with respect to the naval armament of the two Governments, respectively, on the lakes, I lay before the Senate a copy of the correspondence upon that subject, including the stipulations mutually agreed upon by the two parties." And he asked whether such a document required the advice and consent of the Senate, and whether, if it did, the Senate approved. 74 The Senate thought best to give its approval, and on April 28, 181 8, President Monroe proclaimed the Rush-Bagot Agreement in operation. 75 "The naval force to be maintained upon the American lakes, by His Majesty and the United States," it said, "shall henceforth be confined to the following vessels on each side, that is "On Lake Ontario, to one vessel, not exceeding one hundred tons burden, and armed with one eighteen-pound cannon. "On the upper lakes, to two vessels, not exceeding like burden each, and armed with like force. "On the waters of Lake Champlain, to one vessel, not exceeding the like burden, and armed with like force "All other armed vessels on these lakes shall be forthwith dismantled. ," 76 The President proclaimed this arrangement on April 28, 181 8. 77 Seven months later, on October 20, 1818, a Convention was signed which, among other things, fixed the boundary from the Lake of the Woods to the Stony (Rocky) Mountains. 78 Its second article reads: 74 American State Papers, Foreign Relations, IV, p. 203: et seq. for documents of. 76 Text: Senate Docs., Vol. 47, 61st Gong., 2d Sess., p. 628. Proclamation in American State Papers, Foreign Relations, IV, p. 207. 76 This demilitarization idea, later extended to the land, has established an un- fortified frontier of over 3000 miles: and so sacred has the idea become that when, in 1893, it was suggested that an American warship should be exhibited at the Chi- cago Fair, the Federal Government refused for fear it might constitute a violation of the Rush-Bagot Agreement. (Quoted, Bailey, T. A., A Diplomatic History of the American People, p. 157 note). 77 Text of Proclamation, Senate Docs. Vol. 47, 61 Gong., 2nd Sess., p. 630. 78 Concluded October 18, 18 18; advised by Senate, January 25, 181 9; ratified by President, January 28, 181 9; Ratifications exchanged January 30, 181 9; Proclaimed INTRODUCTION 29 "Article 2 : It is agreed that a line drawn from the northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods, along the 49th parallel of north latitude, or, if the said point shall not be in the 49th parallel .... then that a line drawn from the said point due north or south as the case may be, until the said line shall intersect the said parallel of north latitude, and from the point of such intersection due west along and with the said parallel, 79 shall be the line of demarkation be- tween the territories of the United States, and those of His Britannic Majesty, and that the said line shall form the northern boundary of the said territories of the United States, and the southern boundary of the territories of His Britannic Majesty, from the Lake of the Woods to the Stony Mountains." 80 The third article provided, "that any country that may be claimed by either party on the northwest coast of America, westward of the Stony Mountains, shall, together with its harbors, bays, and creeks, and the navigation of all rivers within the same, be free and open, for the term of ten years, from the date of the signature of the present Con- vention, to the vessels, citizens, and subjects of the two powers: it being well understood that this agreement is not to be considered to the prejudice of any claim which either of the two high contracting parties may have to any part of the said country, nor shall it be taken to affect the claims of any other power or state to any part of the said country; the only object of the high contracting parties, in that respect, being to prevent disputes and differences amongst themselves." One great achievement of this Convention of 181 8 was the fixing for the first time a comparatively definite boundary 81 for the Louisiana Pur- chase, on the north, between the Lake of the Woods and the Rocky Mountains. It postponed the settlement of the boundary line west of January 30, 1819. Text: Senate Docs., Vol. 47, 61 Cong. 2nd Sess., pp. 631-633. The text of this Convention of 1818 is printed in American State Papers, Foreign Rela- tions, IV, pp. 406-407. The texts of correspondence and negotiations are in Ibid., pp. 349-406. The Text of the Convention appears also in Senate Docs., Vol. 47, 61 Cong., 2nd Sess., pp. 631-633. 79 The words "due west along that parallel" present an engineering problem in demarcation, as a parallel is a curved line following the contour of the earth and hence changes its direction from the straight line at every point. The Commissioners of 1857- 1 869 realized the impossibility of marking a parallel and agreed that right or straight lines between established points or monuments should constitute the boundary along the 49th parallel. In no instance did the deviation exceed iro feet with an average of only x /i foot. This procedure was confirmed in Article II of the treaty signed at Washington, April 11, 1925. 80 Quoted, Campbell and Twining: Reports upon the Survey, etc. p. 17. 81 The Convention of 1818 made definite, for the first time, the northern bound- aries of Louisiana from the Lake of the Woods to the Rocky Mountains, fixing them along the 49th parallel. Thos. A. Bailey's Diplomatic History of the American People, p. 158. 30 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY the Rockies for at least ten years, so far as British and American claims were concerned, and left unaffected the claims of other powers, notably Russia's in that region: and this in a period immediately following a bitter war between them. These agreements did not at once end all suspicions between the two nations. Madison, for the moment, thought that the possession of Canada by Great Britain was a permanent impediment to harmony. "The only reason we can have to desire Canada," he wrote to Monroe, on November 28, 181 8, 82 "ought to weigh as much with Great Britain as with us. In her hands it must ever be a source of collision which she ought to be equally anxious to remove." It was, of course, impossible for even such a mind as Madison to foresee the coming liberal principles which were to make Canada as free and independent within the British Commonwealth of Nations as she could have been had she become a part of the American Union. It was, therefore, natural for him to doubt the lasting value of the disarmament agreement: but almost a century and a quarter of peace has proved its value. COMMISSION UNDER ARTICLE V OF THE TREATY OF GHENT Its success, however, has not been due to lack of dangerous disagree- ments concerning the, as yet, unsolved boundary questions. The Fifth Article of the Treaty of Ghent, for example, had stated one of these unsolved questions in these words: "Whereas neither that part of the Highlands lying due north from the source of the River St. Croix, designated in the former treaty of peace .... as the north-west westernmost head of the Connecticut River, have yet been ascer- tained; and whereas that part of the boundary line, between the dominions of the powers, which extends from the source of the River St. Croix directly north to the above-mentioned northwest angle of Nova Scotia, thence along the said Highlands .... etc. to the 45th degree of north latitude until it strikes the Iroquois or Cataraguy, has not yet been surveyed, it is agreed that, for these several purposes, two Commissioners shall be appointed, The said Commissioners shall meet at St. Andrew's, in the Province of New Bruns- wick and shall have power to adjourn to such other place or places as they shall think fit. The said Commissioners shall have power to ascertain and determine the points above mentioned, in conformity with the provisions of the said Treaty of Peace of 1783, and shall cause the boundary aforesaid, from the 82 Quoted, Callahan, J. M., The Neutrality of the American Lakes, p. 87. INTRODUCTION 31 source of the River St. Croix to the River Iroquois or Cataraguy, to be sur- veyed and marked according to the said provisions; the said Commissioners shall make a map of the said boundary, and annex to it a declaration under their hands and seals, certifying it to be the true map of the said boundary, and particularizing the latitude and longitude of the northwest angle of Nova Scotia, of the northwesternmost head of the Connecticut River, and of such other points of the said boundary as they may deem proper. "And both parties agree to consider such map and declaration as finally and conclusively fixing the said boundary. And, in the event of the said two Com- missioners differing, or both or either of them refusing, declining or willfully omitting to act, such reports, declarations, or statements, shall be made by them, or either of them, and such reference to a friendly sovereign, or state shall be made, in all respects, as in the latter part of the fourth article is con- tained, and in as full a manner as if the same was herein repeated." The Commissioners appointed under this Fifth Article, of course, accepted the conclusion of the Commission of 1 798, that the source of the Chiputnaticook was the source of the St. Croix mentioned in the Peace Treaty of 1783. But they found that a line run due north from the source of the Chiputnaticook struck no highlands until it arrived near the St. Lawrence River, and that those were not a dividing ridge such as was described in the Treaty of 1783. After long efforts they found themselves unable to agree upon the line described in the Treaty of 1783; and, as had been provided, the matter was referred to the King of the Netherlands. The reference provided, that 83 "the points of difference which have arisen in the settlement of the boundary between the British and American Dominions, as described in the Fifth Article of the Treaty of Ghent, shall be referred, as therein provided, to some friendly Sovereign or State, who shall be invited to investigate and make a decision upon such points** of difference." The reference was signed in London on September 29, 1827, by Charles Grant, Henry Unwin Addington, and Albert Gallatin, and provided for specially drawn reports to be laid before the arbiter, 85 as the reports of the Commis- sioners were "so voluminous and complicated as to render it improb- 83 The Reference is quoted in full text in Stuart's Treaties and Negotiations, pp. 71-79. 84 The italics are ours, for they show what was asked of the King of the Nether- lands. He failed to answer them, thus enabling the United States to refuse to accept his decision. 86 The "Convention providing for the submission to arbitration of the dispute con- cerning the northeastern boundary," concluded September 29, 1827; ratification advised by the Senate, January 14, 1828; ratified by the President, February 12, 1828; ratifications exchanged April 2, 1828; proclaimed May 15, 1828, appears in Senate Docs., Vol. 47, 61 Cong., 2nd Sess., pp. 646-649. It is signed by Albert Gallatin, 32 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY able that any Sovereign or State should be willing or able to under- take the office of investigating and arbitrating upon them." It also provided that "the map, called Mitchell's Map, by which the framers of the Treaty of 1 783 are acknowledged to have regulated their joint and official proceedings, and Map A, which has been agreed on by the contracting parties, as a delineation of the water courses, and of the boundary lines in reference to the said water courses, as contended for by each party respectively, and which has accordingly been signed by the above-named plenipotentiaries at the same time with this Con- vention, shall be annexed to the statements of the contracting parties, and be the only maps that shall be considered as evidence, .... of the topography of the country." 86 The articles declared, furthermore, that "the decision of the arbiter .... shall be taken as final and conclusive; and it shall be carried, without reserve, into immediate effect, . . . ." Clearly, if words mean anything, this bound both parties to accept- ance of the award of the King of the Netherlands, if it should come within the terms of the reference. This was the interpretation of John Quincy Adams, who was President when the question was sent to the King's arbiter: and, at first it seemed to be that of Andrew Jackson who succeeded to the Presidency before the King's award was made. When the King's decision was presented to Jackson in January, 1831, 87 his first impulse was to issue a proclamation accepting it as final, ac- cording to treaty agreement; but his friends, and advisers, among whom was Edward Livingston, persuaded him to allow the Senate to decide whether or not it should receive "advice and consent." Everett, in his Life of Webster, remarks, "It was somewhat singular that the only occasion of importance in his life in which he, Jackson, had al- Minister to Great Britain, Charles Grant of the Privy Council and Henry Unwin Addington, Esq. 86 Either party was, however, at liberty to annex to its respective first statement, by way of general illustration, any one of the maps, surveys, or topographical de- lineations which were filed with the Commissioners under the Fifth Article of the Treaty of Ghent. Article IV of the above articles (Stuart: Treaties and Negotiations, p. 72). The pro- ceedings of this Commission under Article V of the Treaty of Ghent were so vol- uminous and complicated that the two sides agreed to prepare "condensed state- ments," but they were condensed into about half a million words, and over 100 maps, which have never been published. They had worked for six years, but as partisans, not as scientists: and they left confusion not less than they had found it. Arbitration by the King of the Netherlands, January 10, 1831, merely suggested a compromise line as he thought the Treaty of 1 783 too vague to admit a decision for either side (Mills' British Diplomacy in Canada, p. 688). 87 Full Text: Senate Doc. 47: 61 Cong., 2d Sess., p. 649, and note. INTRODUCTION 33 lowed himself to be overruled by his friends was the one of all others in which he ought to have adhered to his own opinions." 88 When the decision came before the Senate, there was fierce opposi- tion to its acceptance, an oppostion which many of the friends of the decision denounced as due to lack of a proper sense of national honor. But, in June, 1832, by the convincing vote of 35 to 8, the Senate re- fused its advice and consent, upon the ground that President Adams had not consulted the Senate before agreeing to accept any decision which the King should see fit to make, as "final and conclusive." As this decision reflected upon John Quincy Adams and not upon himself, President Jackson was content. It displeased him not at all to have the Senate register the opinion that Adams had made an error. Edward Livingston, 89 his new Secretary of State, however, looked at the criticisms of American honor from a wider point of view, 90 and succeeded in persuading Jackson to authorize him to justify the Sen- ate's rejection of the award. On April 14, 1833, with Jackson's consent, Livingston wrote to Sir C. R. Vaughan, "the President sees with great pleasure that the British Government concurs with .... the United States in the position that His Netherland Majesty had not decided the question submitted to him since, by Sir C. Vaughan's note, it is acknowledged 'that the arbitrator, furnished by each claimant with every fact and argument that has been adduced on either side of the question, had declared the impossibility of tracing, in conformity with the description contained in the Treaty of 1 783, the boundary line in question; 'and as the determination of that line, according to the treaty of 1 783, was the only question submitted to the august arbitrator, and he having declared that he found it impossible to trace it in conformity with the Treaty, it follows, that his inability to decide the point sub- mitted to him, leaves the high parties to the submission precisely in the situation in which they were prior to the selection of his Netherland Majesty to be the arbitrator between them, that is to say, they are thrown back to the Convention of the 29th September, 1827. By that convention it was agreed to submit the question, which was the true boundary according to the Treaty of 1 783, to the decision of an ar- bitrator to be chosen between them. The arbitrator selected having 88 Quoted, Mills, D. A., British Diplomacy in Canada, p. 688. 89 Brother of Robert R. Livingston. 90 In a letter to Sir C. R. Vaughan, dated Washington, April 30, 1833, Edward Livingston gives other reasons for the action of the United States in rejecting the award of the King of the Netherlands. Referring to a note from Vaughan, of "the 14th instant," he wrote that the President had directed him to explain the reasons for the rejection (Stuart's Treaties and Negotiations, p. 147). 34 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY declared himself unable to perform the trust, it is as if none had been selected, and it would seem as if the parties to the submission were bound by their contract to select another." Even Lieutenant-Colonel Dudley A. Mills, 91 while severely censur- ing the Senate's action, considers it fortunate that the award was rejected, as its execution would have done serious damage to the theory of arbitration, which must aim at justice. In October, 1835, Great Britain declared herself no longer bound by the" Dutch Award," 92 and the question stood precisely as it had stood before the august reference. The Fifth Article of the Treaty of Ghent was still to be carried into actual boundary lines. II. ST. REGIS TO THE LAKE OF THE WOODS So far, the adjustments, or attempted adjustments, of Canadian boundary lines had not touched the vast region from St. Regis to the Lake of the Woods, a region first surveyed under the leadership of the author of the following Diary. The author of that Diary, Major Joseph Delafield, as the champion of American rights in that area, deserves to figure more largely in the history of American-Canadian boundary ad- justments than he has figured; the reason for his failure to do so is the fact that his Diary has lain hidden and unknown to students for over a century. For a better understanding of that Diary, it is necessary to have in mind certain details with reference to Major Delafield's earlier life. Ten years before the unsuccessful attempt to settle the disagreements of the Commission appointed under the Fifth Article of the Treaty of Ghent by arbitration through the King of the Netherlands, Joseph Delafield had suffered "the only illness of a serious nature that I have suffered during a long life," as his manuscript autobiography tells us. 93 After his recovery, he looked about for some out of door occupation. He had seen service both as a lawyer 94 and as a military man 95 before 81 British Diplomacy in Canada, p. 689. He calls that action "indefensible." 92 Stuart's Treaties and Negotiations, p. 98. 93 Autobiography of Major Joseph Delafield, Mss. now the possession of General John Ross Delafield, of Montgomery Place, Barrytown, New York. This Mss. gives a brief sketch of his life before the opening of his Diary, May 3, 181 7. 94 After graduation from Yale, in 1808, he had studied law in the office of Ogden Hoffman, and had been admitted to the bar on October 29, 181 1, entering as a part- ner with Mr. Hoffman (History of New York Academy of Sciences, H. L. Fair- child). 95 On March 12, 1810 he had been appointed Lieutenant of the Fifth New York INTRODUCTION 35 his illness; but dearer than either of these fields he held science. Al- ways fossils and other objects of "Natural History" had fascinated him. He had studied with eagerness the best books of the day upon these subjects, 96 and these studies, combined with a natural taste for ad- venture, had caused him to take a deep interest in the work of the Commission which, as has been already shown, was attempting to solve the questions under the Fifth Article of the Treaty of Ghent. Much of the area assigned to that Commission had never been studied by sci- entists, and he realized the opportunities which it offered for the col- lection of specimens. But he knew that boundaries were also to be sur- veyed far to the west, under the Sixth and Seventh Articles, and that these areas would offer still greater areas still unexplored by the sci- entist. He therefore fixed his desires upon the western area, and planned to associate himself with it, rather than with the eastern operations already well advanced, but doomed to failure. "My friends, General Peter Porter and Colonel S.(amuel) Hawkins," says his Autobiography, "were appointed, the former the Commissioner and the latter the Agent of the United States, under the Sixth and Seventh Articles of the Treaty of Ghent. It promised to be a very desirable employment and I made known my wishes to these gentlemen to accompany them. "A long and friendly intercourse with both of them, and the fact that the Commissioner and Agent had no great regard for each other, I have always considered had a controlling influence in the result. State Militia, and on February 4, 181 2 had been made Captain of drafted militia. On December 29, 181 2, he had been transferred to the Regular Army, as Captain, and had served with Hawkins' regiment. On April 15, 1814, he had been com- missioned Major in the 46th Regiment, U. S. Infantry (History of the New York Academy of Sciences, H. L. Fairchild; sketch of Joseph Delafield). 96 Major Delafield's Diary contains evidence that his deep interest in fossils, shells, animals of all kinds, and specimens of rocks, had been quickened and given direction by a study of Cuvier's recently published Essay on the Theory of the Earth (New York: Kirk and Mercein, 181 8. I. 431). Cuvier declares his intention: "to travel over ground which has as yet been little explored, and to make my reader acquainted with a species of remains, which, though absolutely necessary for understanding the history of the globe, have been hitherto almost uniformly neglected." Delafield, in traveling over a geographical area, "hitherto almost uniformly neglected," labored conscientiously to collect "species of remains," for future study. In consequence, a very large part of his Diary relates less to the actual problems of boundary determi- nation than to the collection of scientific data, such as Cuvier had in mind. He therefore became what Cuvier described as "an antiquer of a new order," and his collections, still preserved in New York University, were reckoned the best American collection of the day. In the volume, Minerals from Earth and Sky (Vol. Ill of the Smithsonian Scientific Series, 1929, p. 303) appears a list of collections and collectors of gems and minerals, with this entry: "The Joseph Delafield collection, given by his family about 1890 to the New York University, with the stipulation that it should be kept intact." 36 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY "With the approval of Mr. Monroe (then President) and Mr. Adams (then Secretary of State), I was attached to the Agency with instruc- tions to accompany the Commission." His duties were at first ill-defined, but General Porter described them as those of Secretary to the Agent Hawkins; 97 and Hawkins him- self speaks of him as "Major Delafield, my clerk," 98 in one letter, and "Major Delafield, my secretary" in another. 99 His salary, as we know from a letter of Samuel Hawkins, was $500 for the year, plus expenses. 100 His mind, however, was little concerned with that fact, but with the problem of economy and efficiency. "General Porter, with his secretary Mr. (Major. Donald) Fraser, Mr. (David P.) Adams, principal surveyor, with his attendants, and myself (had) left New York for the St. Lawrence via Montreal on our first tour of duty, May 3, 181 7," 101 continues the Autobiography. And from that day to the end of the Commission, Delafield's influence con- stantly grew, until he was, at first unofficially and later officially, the active head of the American section 102 of the joint Commission. The Commission was to have met at St. Regis on May 10, 181 7, but it was May 23 before it assembled, a delay caused, as the Journal says, 103 "by the state of the roads." Those present, as given in the Journal were, Ogilvy 104 and Porter, the British and the American Commissioners, Stephen Sewell, of Montreal, Secretary or Assistant Secretary "as shall be determined by lot;" 105 David Thompson, of 97 Porter says, in one of his letters replying to Hawkins' complaints, that Major Delafield was Hawkins' secretary (text: Mss. in National Archives, Porter Papers). 98 Hawkins to Daniel Brent, April 11, 1818 (Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts, VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1, No. 35). "Hawkins to J. Q.Adams, October 10, 181 7. Ibid. 100 Samuel Hawkins to Daniel Brent, Utica, Oct. 13, 181 8 (Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1). 101 The details of this period May 3, 181 7 to September 23, 1818, are given in vol- umes I, II, III of the Diary that follows. 102 Delafield to John Quincy Adams, Washington, May 17, 1820, says, "I have continued with the Commission from the commencement of its labors to the present time." (Mss. in National Archives, Northern Boundary, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I. Folder 2.) As Agent, in the later days of the Commission, he prepared and signed the reports and the Journal. 103 The Journal, in Mss. in the National Archives, Washington, p. 1, gives further details of the constitution of the Commission. It says: "to prevent unnecessary delay, the next meeting shall be on the spot where their active duty is to commence; and the parties accordingly adjourn (from the first meeting at Albany, Nov. 8, 18 16) to meet at St. Regis on the tenth day of May next 181 7". It was however May 23 when they met, "an earlier day having been prevented by the state of the roads." (Journal p. 7.) 104 On September 28, 181 9, Commissioner Ogilvy died and Anthony Barclay succeeded as British Commissioner, assuming office on June 3, 1820, atGrosse Island. 105 (Journal p. 8.) The lot made Sewell Secretary, Fraser Assistant Secretary. Sewell INTRODUCTION 37 Canada, as one of the astronomical surveyors; Alexander Stevenson, of Lower Canada, as one of the clerks, or assistant surveyors; Major Donald Fraser, of New York, as Secretary or Assistant Secretary "as shall be determined by lot;" David P. Adams, of Boston, as "one of the astronomical surveyors;" 106 William A. Bird, of Troy, New York, as "one of the clerks or assistant surveyors." These things done, the Board adjourned, to reconvene at Porter's Marquee on the 26th of May, 181 7, at which time Samuel Hawkins appeared and presented his Commission 107 as Agent for the United States, under the Sixth and Seventh Articles of the Treaty of Ghent, and by the President's appointment. 108 Major Delafield is mentioned only incidentally in these earlier records of the Commission, 109 as his connection was as yet unofficial. But Hawkins' expense account as Agent, commencing, in May, 1 8 1 7, shows a few items in connection with his journey to St. Regis. A letter from his mother, dated July 20, 181 7 110 gives an idea of the equipment which they enjoyed: "I find that your arrangements have excited the resigned in June, 1819, and Fraser became Secretary, while Dr. John Biggsby was made Assistant Secretary. 106 David P. Adams, Assistant Surveyor to the Commission on Boundaries, wrote from Washington, D. C. on April 7, 181 8: "On the 21st of last May (181 7) I arrived with my astronomical and trigonometrical instruments at the village of St. Regis. . . . I found General Porter and Col. Ogilvy, the Commissioners, and Col. Hawkins, the U. S. Agent, preparing to assume their functions." Adams began his work in June, 181 7. "The plans of the survey adopted by each," he says "were very similar; a con- nected series of triangles was arranged throughout all the various channels, and an entire concatenation of them was preserved along the whole extent of the work, which contains somewhat more than 40 miles. All the angles were carefully measured and verified at their respective stations. . . . "I understand, however, that the plan of the Commissioners for the future, (i. e. after April 7, 181 8) . . . has . . . been materially altered. . . . The river is to be ap- portioned in equal and alternate sections to the two parties of surveyors, and each is to furnish the other with a copy of his respective operations. By this change of plan, the work will advance with at least double celerity. ... I expect that 200 or 250 miles of the river will be surveyed in the course of the ensuing season. ..." (Adams to Hon. Th. Claiborne, text: Mss. of Journal, in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts, VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1, p. 8.) 107 On May 27, 181 7 Commissioner Porter wrote to Richard Rush, then Acting Secretary of State. "Colonel Hawkins yesterday presented his credentials and was recognized by the Board of Commissioners as Agent for the United States. No agent has yet appeared on the part of the British Government, nor is Mr. Ogilvy, as he informs me, apprised of any appointment." (Text: Mss. National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts, VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2.) 108 Joseph Delafield's Autobiography, p. 6. 109 Text: American State Papers, Foreign Affairs, V, pp. 54-55. Mss. form in the National Archives, Washington, D. C. 110 Mss. at Montgomery Place, Barry town-on-Hudson, New York. 38 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY observations of the British Commissioners," she said. "Colonel Ogilvy writes to Colonel Barclay that the American Commissioners have es- tablished themselves in a very superior style, both as respects their en- campment and their numbers, and that they (the British Commis- sioners) fall far short in their arrangements." And she added, "We see by the papers that the President in his route will visit St. Regis. Your elegant marquee will no doubt be honored on this occasion." 111 President Monroe did make the visit, and his report to Congress in December, 1817, shows that the ideas which the next year took the shape of the Rush-Bagot agreement for disarmament on the lakes already described were made definite by the visit. "Our people," he said, "are the barrier on the lakes," intimating that he considered fortifications unnecessary. "It soon became evident," says Delafield's Autobiography, "that the intercourse between General Porter and Colonel Hawkins was un- harmonious and embarrassing. They differed as to their respective duties," and Hawkins early showed a disposition to make his as com- prehensive as possible. As "my powers under the treaty do not ap- pear to be defined," he had written to Secretary of State Monroe on June 24, 181 6, I feel free to make "almost indiscriminate claims." 112 And, on May 30, 181 7, he complained to Richard Rush, the Acting Secretary of State: "so wide a difference exists between the Commis- sioner (General Porter) and myself as to the nature and extent of our relative duties, that it has become necessary to appeal to the Depart- ment for their views of the points of controversy." 113 This appeal appears mere factiousness in view of the fact that already, on March 22, 181 7, Rush had sent him a definite decision upon the relationship between the Agent and the Commission. "With the Commission," he said, "will rest the power of deciding questions. Your duty will there- 111 On Aug. 15, 181 7, Porter had informed Rush that there "seems now to be a propriety in keeping the accounts of the Board and of the Agency separate." (Mss. National Archives.) Thus Hawkins' accounts had to be dealt with as distinct from those of the Board itself; and the task of dealing with them fell to Delafield. "The difficulty that occurred to prevent the settlement," he wrote to John Quincy Adams, on November 1, 1820 "... was submitted by me to the Commissioner of the United States in conformity with my instructions. In order to present a just under- standing of what has transpired relative to these accounts, I have reduced the same to a correspondence with General Porter. His promised reply in a few days will enable me to lay the result before the Department of State." (Delafield to Adams, Nov. 1, 1820. Mss. in National Archives.) 112 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1. 113 Text: Mss. National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1. INTRODUCTION 39 fore naturally direct itself towards aiding them. . . ." 114 But the Secre- tary patiently replied, again repeating his interpretation. Hawkins, however, declared himself not satisfied, and unwisely sent an appeal directly to the President. This of course called for a reply from Commis- sioner Porter, who properly addressed himself to Rush, as Acting Secretary of State. "Some days ago," he wrote on June 19, 1817, 115 "Colonel Hawkins, the Agent of the Government, presented to the Commission a paper of some length, containing an exposition of his views on the subject of the relative powers and duties of the Commis- sioners and Agents, and suggesting certain forms of procedure. ... I regret to find that they did not entirely correspond with those enter- tained by the Board." On June 24, 181 7, he wrote again 116 to explain that Hawkins insisted that the "surveyors and other persons employed by the Commissioners . . . ought to be under the direction and control of the Agent: whereas the Commissioners suppose that they ought to be under the direction and control of the Board." 117 Replying for the State Department, Rush wrote on June 23, 181 7: 118 "I have carefully examined Colonel Hawkins' paper . . . and think that he has the wrong side. I take the Agent to be an officer having neither independent nor coordinate powers." And his opinion was sup- ported by the President. 119 These decisions, later supplemented by a similar view from a Com- mittee of Congress, 120 Hawkins had to accept, but his hostility toward 114 Text: Mss. National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1. 116 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 116 Text: Mss. National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 117 Hawkins held that "he and his co-agent represent the power and sovereignty of their respective governments in regard to the demarcation of the boundary; or . . . that the two agents agreeing . . . the Commissioners are bound to adopt" the line they designate, having discretion only when the agents failed to agree. 118 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1. 119 Rush to Hawkins, July 16, 1817. Text: Mss. In National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1. 120 A Committee of the House, appointed March 27, 181 8, reported on April 11, 181 8 (Text: National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts VI and VII, Envelope IV, Folder 2) "the Commissioners constitute a court, whose business it is to decide. . . . It belongs to the Agents to furnish the facts for decision." It is also recommended "that the President ... be requested to arrange with the British Government some mode of designating the boundary line under the sixth and seventh articles . . . which shall require less time and expense than the one which the Commissioners have heretofore pursued." 4 o THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Porter was not lessened by his defeat. Every action of General Porter was regarded with suspicion, and treated with innuendo. Hawkins, in June, 1818, had a conversation with Major Delafield which, as he said, left upon his mind "the impression . . . that Major Delafield had learned thro' Judge Ogden or his brother that General Porter had one share," in a land speculation involving the purchase of certain islands along the course of the line which the Commission was projecting. He preferred no charges; but his remarks at once called from Major Delafield a denial of such meaning as had been given to his words. Reluctantly Hawkins acknowledged that Major Delafield's remarks had been shown to relate, not to the purchase of lands to be assigned by the Commission's survey, but "to the purchase of other terri- tory than the islands in question:" 121 and later David A. Ogden con- firmed this view in evidence given before a Committee of Congress. 122 Toward the end of June, 1 8 1 8, for reasons not revealed, but doubtless connected with the constant friction with the Agent, General Porter decided to "absent himself from the boundary," and consulted Major Delafield as to the best method of accomplishing his purpose. Colonel Hawkins has himself left on record 123 the fact that, on June 26, 181 8, General Porter "entered upon a conversation . . . with Major Dela- field, Secretary of the Agency. In the course of this he mentioned his intention to absent himself from the surveying party during the sum- mer, and expressed his hope that I would do the same. He at the same time . . . intimated a wish that Major Delafield should take charge of the party in concert with Major Fraser, the Assistant Secretary of the Board." "I immediately" he adds, "requested the Major (Delafield) to reassure General Porter . . . that I only wished him to reduce them (his suggestions) to writing. . . . On the 27th of June Major Delafield . . . 121 Mss. In National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1. 122 On April 9, 181 8, Judge D. A. Ogden and General Porter were under suspicion of having planned to purchase certain islands along the course of the projected line. Hawkins reported a conversation with Major Delafield, adding, "The impression left on my mind by this conversation was that Major Delafield had learned thro' Judge Ogden or his brother, that General Porter had one share in the speculation." But later conversation with Delafield led him to see that Major Delafield's remarks "related to the purchase of other territory than the islands in question." (Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1.) This latter view is proved true by a deposition of Joseph Delafield, preserved in the National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1, and by a deposition of David A. Ogden himself, given to a Committee of the House of Representatives, and signed on the 10th of April, 1818 (text: Mss., Ibid.). 123 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1. INTRODUCTION 41 repeated my assurances to the General. . . ." The result was the settle- ment which left Delafield and Fraser 124 in charge of the entire field of operations of the American Commission. 125 It had required no little diplomacy to work with two such determined antagonists as Hawkins and Porter, and, at the end, to be the choice of both for the most im- portant post in the American Commission. He had seen clearly the faults of each, but had scrupulously avoided the assumption of author- ity, and had advised only when consulted. Now, however, the responsi- bility was his, and he acted promptly, to correct former mistakes, and to produce greater efficiency. "I broke up the Agent's encampment,' ' says his Autobiography, "and joined the Commissions thereby reducing numbers and expenses." From the first, Major Delafield had kept his Diary, entering not the facts which the Official Journal contained, but more personal items. The importance of this unofficial record soon appeared. In seeking to justify his own conduct, Hawkins wrote to President Monroe, on Feb- ruary 7, 1819: 126 "Annexed to the statement herewith transmitted is a copy of a part of Major Delafield's Diary, marked A, by which most of the facts I have enumerated are indisputably established. 127 I also send the original of this Diary, together with the certificate of Judge Richards that they may be collated with the copies; that being done, I am desirous to repossess them." He did repossess them, and the Mss. is still among his personal papers in the National Archives. As it is wholly in Major Delafield's 124 Alex. Richards, in a deposition (National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1), of January 20, 181 9, declares that Major Fraser had said to him "that he had managed the business in behalf of the United States the greater portion of last year." 126 Hawkins' expense account as Agent (text: American State Papers, Foreign Affairs, V, pp. 54-55) shows Major Delafield's salary for the year ending April 10, 18 1 9, as $1000. The Agent's salary for the same period given as $4,444.44. And the account is certified, "Joseph Delafield, New York, Nov. 2, 1819." In June, 181 8 Richard Delafield, younger brother of Major Joseph Delafield, had been sworn in as "a draftsman." His oath appears in the National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope III, Folder 3. 126 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1. 127 The extract sent remains in the Hawkins file today: but it is not an accurate extract. It is dated June 26, 1818, a date which is almost blank in Major Delafield's Diary as we have it, in final and complete form. The entry quoted corresponds roughly to the actual Diary under June 27, 1818. It appears as if Delafield had made a sort of rough summary of various entries of his own Diary, and had confused dates, as the extracts are in Delafield's handwriting as is an accompanying letter to Hawkins, written and signed by Delafield (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1). 42 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY handwriting, and signed by him, it is convincing evidence of the fact that Delafield was still ready to serve his old friend, in so far as this could be done without injustice to his other old friend, General Porter, or to the cause which he served. Soon there arose serious difficulties in the consolidated camp, be- tween the principal surveyor and one of his assistants, which ended in the withdrawal of the assistant; 128 and from that time forward all the duties of the American Agency devolved upon Major Delafield, as Colonel Hawkins, the Agent, became contractor for the building of a fort at Mobile and was permanently detached from the boundary Commission. 129 The difficulty of carrying the full duties of Agent without being invested with the legal authority of that office soon appeared, and, on May 17, 1820, Major Delafield sent to the Secretary of State, John Quincy Adams, 130 a letter in which he said, "As the office of Agent . . . has been vacated, some embarrassments may arise. That gives me the more confidence in submitting the annexed suggestions: that I be permitted: to repair to the above described boundary Commission, to represent the United States (during the absence of an Agent more fully authorized) under the direction of the Government, or of the American Commissioner, so far as it may be necessary: to meet any proceedings on the part of the British Agent: to continue the minutes and Journal of the Agency, keep a record of the proceedings, and note the evidence upon which decisions are had: to report to the Govern- ment the proceedings of the Board and other occurences of moment: to transact all such things as the American Commissioner should deem to require the interference of an Agent on the part of his Government: to avoid the allegation on the part of the British Government, that the United States had not met the Agent of His Britannic Majesty by a corresponding officer, or person acting in such capacity: to supply the American Commissioner with another officer, so that he might be enabled to retire from the personal superintendence of the survey and party of surveyors whenever it might seem to him proper and requisite 128 "^[y Diary I find explains these matters in detail and my success in keeping the peace," comments Major Delafield, in his Autobiography, p. 7. He was Acting Agent from March, 1820 to January, 1821 (Autobiography, p. 9). 129 As it was now clear that the responsibilities of the survey, so far as the American Commission was concerned, were to be given up by him, Hawkins, on January 29, 181 9, wrote out with care "A History of Certain Transactions During the Year 181 8," a document still preserved (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 1). 130 Delafield to John Quincy Adams, Washington, May 17, 1820 (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2). INTRODUCTION 43 for the furtherance of the proceedings of the Board: to enable the Board to proceed to the consideration of cases, that in their opinion require the appearance of the respective governments by officers representing them. It may be proper to add that much material is now matured for consideration of the Board, not perhaps involving questions of doubt or difficulty; and that whenever the Board should conclude to act upon such cases, an embarrassment might arise, from the non- appearance of an officer corresponding to the British Agent: to take charge of the public property left on the line by the American Agent, and dispose of so much thereof as is liable to waste, and not needed by the Commission. "It is not believed nor desired, that this appointment should increase, in any material manner, the expenses of the Commission. No additional establishment would be requisite. The traveling expenses to and from the line, and such compensation as might be allowed, would only accrue; and the appropriation for the present year, from my knowledge of the disbursements of the Commission, it is believed would cover the expense. "It is not intended to convey the impression that all the above enumerated duties are considered indispensable, but it is believed that should this appointment be made, considerable embarrassment will be avoided; and I feel it right to state my convictions, that it would be agreeable to the views and wishes of the American Commissioner. "Permit me to conclude, that I have continued with the Commis- sion from the commencement of its labors to the present time; and that a strong desire to make myself useful to the advancement of the interests of my country (so far as in my power lies) urges me to seek for instructions upon the subject proposed." With this definition of the duties of the office of Agent, so completely in harmony with the idea which the Commissioner, General Porter, had urged against Hawkins, the President and Secretary of State were in complete accord: and accordingly Delafield was promptly appointed Acting Agent. 131 In expressing his appreciation of the appointment, he wrote to Secretary Adams, on June 24, 1820, 132 "I am grateful that the views I had taken of the services to be performed by the Agent met with his 131 On May 19, 1820, Delafield wrote to John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2) from Washington, "I have had the honor to receive your communication, bearing date this day, authorizing my attendance upon the boundary line Commission under the 6th and 7th Articles of the Treaty of Ghent." 132 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 44 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY (Commissioner Porter's) entire approbation and assent; and con- formably to his advice, I repaired to the camp of our party situated upon Fighting Island in the river Detroit. The survey is at present con- ducted in the vicinity of Detroit, and in the course of a fortnight it will be conducted to the entrance of Lake St. Clair. On account of the peculiar unhealthiness of the country, adjacent and contiguous to Lake St. Clair, ... it has been deemed most advisable to pass from the entrance into this lake, to the Sault St. Mary or confluence between Lakes Superior and Huron. Our party will accordingly sail for the further end of Lake Huron in a few days. The British have already proceeded to that point . . . the Commissioner of His Britannic Majesty (A. Barclay, Esquire) having been appointed to supply the vacancy occasioned by the death of the late Mr. Ogilvy." Four months later, 133 he again wrote Mr. Adams: "the survey hav- ing been conducted to the head of the river Detroit, I sailed with the surveyors, in a light schooner that had been employed for our service, on the twenty-first of July, and on the third day of August we com- menced a section of the survey at the north end of Lake Huron. "The British party had already begun their work at the head of the lake. We consequently took a section some distance below them, em- bracing the island known as Drummond's Island (where the British forces now have a garrison) , several channels hitherto unexplored, the commencement of the great Manatoulin Islands, and a great number of lesser islands. I regret that it is not in my power, without the aid of maps, to give you a satisfactory description of that country: nor do I know of any that have been published that give a true knowledge of that end of Lake Huron. "That end of the lake, from the river St. Marie to the great Mana- toulin, is included in the surveys of the two parties, and is completed. I conceive that the survey effected this season upon Lake Huron will embrace by far the most essential parts of the lake to be surveyed, so far as it relates to the duties of this Commission. Drummond's Island and Isle St. Joseph are of the most considerable interest, as well on account of their positions as of territory; and more particularly Drum- mond's Island. To this island, now in possession of the British, the United States have reasons to maintain a claim." He added that, as the season was now far advanced and the weather "boisterous and inclement," the party had repaired to Lake St. Clair on the sixth instant, and plans soon to go on to Black Rock, which the 133 Delafield to J. Q. Adams, River St. Clair, Oct. 13, 1820 (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2). Two copies in Delafield's handwriting were mailed and both are in the National Archives. INTRODUCTION 45 British party had already done. 134 There maps and records were put into permanent condition and Commissioner Porter examined them. "I take great pleasure in stating," Delafield wrote to John Quincy Adams on November 1, 1820, 135 "that our operations . . . have been sanctioned by the concurrence and assent of the Commissioner, Gen- eral Porter. Our surveys have extended from the mouth of the Detroit River to the end of Lake Huron, and have embraced that district, ex- cepting the small Lake Saint Clair, and the river Saint Clair, and those parts of Lake Huron that are not essential to the duties of the Com- mission. . . . "I also have the satisfaction to state that he (General Porter) concurs with me in opinion that but little remains to be done to bring to a close the performance of the sixth article of the treaty. ... I do not doubt but what all the surveys that are necessary, from the parallel of lati- tude north 45 , on the St. Lawrence River, thro' the lakes to the north extremity of Lake Huron, will, in the coming season, be completed; nor do I at present foresee any obstacles that may prevent a protraction of the boundary line, for that extent, by the decisions of the Board immediately thereafter." On November 27, 1820, Delafield assured the Secretary of State, 136 that "the Agency with which I have the honor to be charged has not essentially increased the expenses of the Commission. Upon this sub- ject I beg leave to add that, if it should seem fit to place the compensa- tion of the Agent upon a footing with the other officers of the Board, the extra expenses incurred would be amply covered, by such com- pensation," which seems to mean that no other expenses would be added. He enclosed a list of persons who had been employed by the Commission during the year 1820 with the salary of each, and op- posite his own name as "Acting Agent" were the figures of $4444.44, a salary exactly equal to that of the Commissioner. 137 How completely Commissioner Porter approved of Delafield, and his work as Acting Agent, appears in a letter which he sent to the Secretary of State, John Quincy Adams, on December 2, 1820. 138 "I 134 The Journal VIII, 17, Oct. 22, 1820 says, "the surveys under the VI Article will be done (next season), extending from parallel of n. latitude 45 on the St. Lawrence to the water communication between Lakes Huron and Superior." 135 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I. Folder 2. 136 Delafield to Adams, Nov. 27, 1820 (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2). 137 List in National Archives, with Delafield to John Quincy Adams, Nov. 27, 1820. Cit. opp. 138 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope 46 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY have been gratified," it said, "in having during the last season the as- sistance of Major Delafield, whose intelligence, habits of business, and correct deportment have rendered him very useful. I hope that he may- accompany us again next season. . . . The knowledge which, by his former situation, he has acquired of the various subjects connected with the sixth article, would probably enable him to be more useful than any other person. It would be my wish also, should he continue with us, that he should take a general management and superintendence of the operations and expenses of the surveying parties. This was not done by the late Agent for reasons which are already known to you." 139 Delafield 's continuance with the Commission was of course assured: but the status of Acting Agent embarrassed him in his work. On January 10, 1821, he wrote to the Secretary of State, John Quincy Adams, from Washington, D. G. 140 giving a summary of the results so far attained, and the chief difficulties so far overcome. "The duties that have devolved upon the Acting Agent of the United States," he explained, "have been such as were incumbent upon him under the direction of the Commissioner, . . . his presence wherever the sur- veyors were employed." 141 But, he explains, now that the final agree- ments are to be made, "the Agent of H. B. Majesty will appear pre- pared to make claims and to urge them. ..." He then suggested that only an Agent of equal rank could effectively defend America's in- terests against such claims. The conclusion was of course evident; he should be given full status as Agent of the United States. Again the Secretary of State accepted his conclusions, and two months later, in acknowledgment, Delafield sent this letter: 142 I, Folder 1 , No. 40. 139 And he added the opinion that "Major Delafield has no expectation of receiving the amount of salary allowed to the former Agent (Delafield was as yet only Acting Agent) , yet the sum of one thousand dollars a year which he has theretofore received seems quite too small when compared with the nature and extent of his services, and when it is considered too that six or eight months of the year must be spent in camp, in an uninhabited and inhospitable country." 140 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 141 On May 19, 1820, Delafield had been authorized by John Quincy Adams to attend upon the Commission under the 6th and 7th Articles (text: Journal, 43), subject to General Porter's direction. The letter makes clear that he had been in attendance before, at a fixed stipend, which Adams continued unchanged. "At a meeting at Black Rock, on May 7, 1821," says John Bassett Moore (Digest of Inter- national Arbitrations, I, p. 165), "Joseph Delafield appeared and presented a com- mission as Agent of the United States, in place of Samuel Hawkins." He signed his note to Secretary John Quincy Adams submitting the "Duplicate Journal" of the Commission, July 24, 1822, "Jos. Delafield, Agent. U. S." 142 (Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, INTRODUCTION 47 "New York, March 14, 1821 Hon. John Quincy Adams Secretary of State Sir: I had the honor by the mail of yesterday, to receive notice of my appoint- ment by the President, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate, to be Agent of the United States, under the sixth and seventh articles of the Treaty of Ghent, and have also the honor to acknowledge the receipt of my commission herewith. I am with the greatest respect, Your most obedient servant, Jos. Deiafield." Under this Commission, he directed the field operations until the end of the Commission in 1828. Unlike his predecessor Hawkins, he found no difficulty in working in harmony with General Porter, who gave him a free hand and full support in his important task of "perma- nently fixing the territorial limits of the two nations," to quote Porter's own phrase. 148 "I passed every season," says Delafield's Autobiography, "with the surveyors on the boundary line, from St. Regis on the St. Lawrence to the northern extremity of the Lake of the Woods, repairing to the boundary in the spring, as soon as the ice disappeared, and breaking up our encampments in the autumn, when too cold or inclement for the conduct of the trigonometrical survey. Much of the winters I passed in Washington, having other business there. "The special duty of the Agent was to protect the interests of the United States, by making claims to doubtful islands, routes etc., when they could be substantiated by evidence. I was fully at liberty to make whatever claims I considered the interests of the United States re- quired. ..." The Commissioner's duty, under the Sixth Article of the Treaty of Ghent had been to designate "that portion of the boundary" of the United States from the point where the 45th degree of north latitude strikes the river Iroquois or Cataraguy 144 "to . . . water communication Folder 2.) He held the post and title to the end of the Commission in 1828, June 30 (Autobiography, p. 9). 143 Porter to John Quincy Adams, Nov. 3, 181 7 (Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1). Volumes 9-12 inclusive of Dela- field's Diary cover the period in which Major Deiafield was a full member of the Board, and the member in actual charge of the process of locating the boundary line. 144 Now called the St. Lawrence. See map No. Ill, "Iroquois or St. Lawrence" in Moore's reproductions, in National Archives, Map Room. 48 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY between that lake (Huron) and Lake Superior." 145 As there was no longer any conflict over the respective duties of the two officers, Com- missioner and Agent, the work progressed rapidly and harmoniously, the Agent advancing the American claims, with the evidence furnished by his scientific staff, and the Commissioner accepting them as the basis of his discussions with the British Commissioner, and more and more confidently adopting them as his own. Thus the work assigned under Article VI was completed, and on August 2, 1821, Commissioner Porter reported to the Secretary of State: 146 "I have the satisfaction to inform you that Major Delafield, with the American party of surveyors and men, arrived at this place (Black Rock) from the upper lakes on Saturday last, having completed the part assigned to them, at the last meeting of the Board, of the surveys that remain to be executed under the sixth article of the treaty." And, on August 10, 182 1, Delafield reported to him (John Quincy Adams) 147 from Albany: "Early in July the surveys of the lake and river St. Clair were closed. From thence we proceeded to Lake Erie to conclude an unfinished section of survey that the British party had been obliged to abandon, in the sickly sea- son of 181 9. Toward the end of July this work was completed and we forthwith sailed for Black Rock. The surveyors and draftsmen of our party remain there engaged in preparing the necessary maps to be submitted to the Board for their deliberation, and, as we confidently hope, for a final report to the Government under the sixth article of the treaty. The surveyors of the British party have not yet returned, but are daily expected. "Upon their arrival, they will be employed in the same manner as our own party, and, it is believed, that the maps will be in sufficient readiness, in the course of the ensuing month, to allow a meeting of the Board, for the discussion and decision of the various claims of the respective governments, throughout the extent explored and surveyed. With this view, notice has been given for a meeting of the Board on the twenty-fourth day of September, next, at Utica." Commissioner Barclay's illness made it necessary to postpone this meeting to the twelfth day of November, 1821; 148 but the hope for 145 The Commissioners under Art. VI were also to decide "what was the middle of the river Iroquois or Cataraguy, of the Lake Ontario, of the Lake Erie, and of the Lake Huron and of the communications by water between those lakes and whether certain islands lying in the same are within the dominions of His Britannic Majesty or of the United States." 146 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 147 Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 148 Delafield to John Quincy Adams, New York, Oct. 8, 1821 (text: Mss. in INTRODUCTION 49 agreement failed to mark the opening of that session, as serious points of difference speedily manifested themselves between the American and the British Commissioners, each of whom saw it as duty to claim certain islands of especial interest, or strategic value. The case for America was presented in writing by Delafield, as Agent, on November 21, 1821. 149 "The undersigned, the Agent of the United States," it said, "having an opportunity afforded him, to express his views in relation to the principles that may be adopted by the Board, preparatory to their consideration of the rights of the respective govern- ments, by which principles they are to be governed in the adjudica- tions they are about to make, has the honor to submit the following remarks: "It has been heretofore established by treaty (1783) that the portion of the boundary line which falls within the province of tl.is Commission now to decide (St. Regis to the Lake of the Woods) shall be along the middle of said river (meaning the Iroquois or Cataraguy) into Lake Ontario, through the middle of said lake until it strikes the communication by water between that lake and Lake Erie; thence along the middle of said communication into Lake Erie, through the middle of said lake, until it arrives at the water com- munication into Lake Huron; thence through the middle of said lake to the water communication between that lake and Lake Superior etc. Under this general description of the boundary line, doubts have arisen; and it is easy to agitate many questions and difficulties that tend to embarrass and obscure the present course to be pursued. Disclaiming any other object than that of a strong desire that the boundary line now to be established should be adjusted agreeably to the purport of the treaty, for and in accordance with the rights of both governments, the undersigned will confine himself to the obvious questions that first present themselves; and without a determination of which it has been thought the proceedings of the Board may in some measure be retarded — at the same time reserving to himself the privilege to enlarge upon various other principles that are applicable, whenever a disposition of those now submitted, or the progress of your labors may require it. The undersigned conceives the first question that arises to be upon the construction of the treaty (1783), to wit — what is meant by the middle of the rivers, lakes and water communications? 160 National Archives.) 149 (Text: Mss. Journal, July 24, 1822, pp. 51-57.) It has been printed in Senate Docs. Vol. 47, 6 1 st Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 620-623. 150 Commissioner Porter, in a letter to James Monroe, dated Dec. 10, 1816 (Na- tional Archives), had clearly stated the case of "equi-distant" or "middle of the chan- nel." "A line to be run equi-distant from the extreme shore," he said ". . . would be liable to these strong objections. It would destroy the continuity of navigation (and) , . . lead to collisions between the citizens and subjects of the two governments, furnish facilities for breaches of the revenue laws, and the means of escaping from punish- ment for other crimes." He adds, "the channel should indicate the line." 50 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY This question naturally divides itself into two others — viz. Is the middle of a river, lake, or water communication a point equi-distant between the two shores, without regard to the body of water or channel? Or is the middle . . . the center of the greatest body of water, its bed or channel, without regard to the shores? It is unnecessary to remark upon the hazard and impropriety of giving a construction to a treaty not warranted by its express terms, but when such terms are not explicit, and are liable to different constructions, the rule of law allows us to seek for what was probably in the thoughts of those who drew it up, and interpret it accordingly." He conceives that such is the fact in the present instance; and that the expression "the middle of the rivers, lakes and water communications" is of doubtful construction; and that the rule of law, to his understanding, affords no facility to the solution of the question. It then becomes necessary to recur to one or the other of the questions, that arise out of the general expression of the treaty. As to the first — is the middle of a river, lake or water communication, a point equi-distant between the two shores, without regard to the body of water or channel? .... The islands throughout the route to be acted upon, it is well known, are situated in all parts of the rivers and water communications, many in the center, and many near either shore. A line to be drawn through the middle of the river, in its present acceptation, would consequently pass over many of these islands, dividing them, in various proportions, between two governments. It would virtually erect two sovereignties upon one little island, and subject the proprietors and respective governments to continued and serious embarrass- ments. A compliance to this rule, therefore, in this particular, it is hoped, will be pronounced injurious and inexpedient. Another objection to this rule of decision is that a line drawn thus rigidly through the middle of the rivers would necessarily intersect the channel of navigation, wherever that channel was circuitous, leaving the whole channel at one time within the jurisdiction of one government, at another time within the jurisdiction of the other, a course that might have an unfavorable operation, contrary to the spirit of the treaty. It seems then that this principle of construction is not capable of a direct and thorough application to the subject proposed: nor is it deemed consistent with the interests of either government. Whether the middle of a river, lake or water communication means the center of the greatest body of water, its bed or channel, without regard to the shores, is a question that the undersigned also conceives objectionable, if it be adopted as a principle of decision. The true intent and meaning of the treaty, as it is interpreted by the under- signed, will throw some light upon this division of the question. The United States and His Britannic Majesty, desirous to maintain their friendly relations toward each other, provided for the distribution of territory lying between them, so as to promote that object. The presumption is thought both direct and fair, that the treaty makers, actuated by such considerations, also intended to secure to each party an equal use of the water between them. That the navigation of these waters is of the first importance to both nations is considered evident. With this impression and belief, it is submitted whether INTRODUCTION 51 the following reasons do not render it inexpedient to adopt this latter mode of construction as a rule of division. The channels, in some parts of the rivers, lakes and water communications, are so extremely circuitous and confined that they fall within the present acknowledged jurisdiction of one party or the other, and a line dividing such channel would not make it otherwise. In this case, to adopt the rule would not practically secure to either government the reciprocal rights of navigation be- cause, however clearly the right of navigation may be declared to be free and common, that party that owns the territory on both sides of such channel (particularly when it is a passage forming a harbor, . . . ) can so control its use as to render insecure the rights intended to be maintained. It is conceived that a right to territory, and a right to channel, are in- separable, in such case, from a free and undisturbed navigation. The channels upon the route in question are subject to, and now under- going, continued and perceptible changes. The best channel of this year may not be the best channel of the next year. To adopt a channel for the line therefore will be to put at hazard that desirable and anticipated hope of a well defined and permanent boundary line. Another objection to this rule of decision is the number of channels that may occur, all equally good for the navigable purposes of the rivers. It is mentioned to show that the rule is imperfect and, if adopted, would not relieve this honorable Board from various other contingent questions. In case either rule of decision that has been proposed should be established, the undersigned presumes to surmise that many others would grow out of them, of equal difficulty with the present; that either would lead to many dis- cussions and consequent delay; and, although he is prepared to enter upon the discussions that such a course may require, he would previously ask leave to submit for the consideration of the Board another rule of decision that he thinks would lead to satisfactory and practicable results, which is That the boundary line be established by the observance of a middle line to be drawn thro' the rivers, lakes and water communications, and ascer- tained in relation to the shores: with such departures therefrom as the ne- cessities of the case and the interests of the respective governments may require; and as the Commissioners in a spirit of amity may agree to. . . . The proposition he takes the liberty to submit has for its basis the recip- rocal rights of both governments, although doubts must arise under any and every mode of decision that may be adopted. The undersigned concludes with the request that if, in the progress of the deliberations of this honorable Board, new doubts shall be agitated touch- ing either the territory or the navigation of the line to be decided, he may be heard in behalf of the government he has the honor to represent. Joseph Delafield, Agent of the United States etc. New York, Nov. 21, 1821." On the same day, November 21, 1821, John Hale, Agent for His U. OF ILL LIB, 52 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Britannic Majesty, proposed "that a water line as a boundary" ought to be agreed upon; but declared himself quite content to trust the Com- missioners to distribute the islands equitably. 151 And on November 23, 1 82 1, Delafield assured the Secretary of State, John Quincy Adams, 152 "I now believe, with increased confidence, that it will soon be in my power to present a report of the proceedings of this Board declaratory of their final agreement, together with the maps, and evidence of the same." By December 5, 1821, however, there was a set contest between them over the division of islands lying in the mouth of the Detroit River, Delafield urging America's just claim to "Bois Blanc, Sugar and Stony Island," and the British Agent, John Hale, claiming for his country Sugar and Stony Island. 153 Hale's argument was brief. 154 "Upon the map exhibited by the surveyors," he said, "a line drawn along the middle of the said water communication, measured from the main shore on each side, appears to pass to the westward of both the said islands (Sugar Island and Stony Island), that is to say leaving every part of them on the British side of the middle line so drawn. The undersigned therefore feels it his duty to claim both islands for Great Britain, not only in the spirit but according to the very letter of the aforesaid treaty. . . ." (1783) Delafield's response, also dated December 5th, 182 1, 155 covers eight closely written fools-cap sheets, and claims "Bois Blanc Island, Sugar Island, and Stony Island" as properly American. He congratulates the Commission "that they have come to a provisional agreement upon the boundary line through the river St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario; through the Niagara Straits and Lake Erie." The difference, he says, concerns now only "certain islands lying in the river Detroit." "The only possible doubts that can arise, in regard to the disposition of the islands in the river Detroit," he confidently asserts, "apply to the island of Bois Blanc, and two small islands near the mouth of the river com- monly known as Sugar and Stony Islands." These he considers "so peculiarly situated that they form an exception to all others upon the boundary line. They lie in a narrow pass between two great navigable 161 Text: Journal of July 24, 1822, pp. 58-59. 162 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 153 Journal of Commission under the VI Article of the Treaty of Ghent, p. 46 (Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope III, Folders 1-5). 154 Text: Ibid., pp. 60-61. 166 (Text: Ibid., pp. 62-71.) It appears also as a distinct Mss. in the National Arch- ives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. INTRODUCTION 53 rivers. The channels of this pass are much nearer the main shore of His Britannic Majesty than to the main shore of the United States. The best channel, and only channel now used, is continguous to the Canada shore, and between it and the Bois Blanc Island. 156 The harbor to be made by vessels from Lake Erie, in the mouth of this river, is in and about the channel described; which circumstances give a peculiar interest to the Bois Blanc, Sugar and Stony Island." In other words, he considered these islands, though "insignificant in point of territory,' ' of such essential consequence that he conceived it his duty, as Agent, "to claim in behalf of the United States the one equal half of the navi- gable channels and territory adjacent thereto." Such claim seemed to him to justify America in claiming "Bois Blanc, the middle of the channel between that island and the Canadian mainland, and the subordinate channels, flats and territory west of the island of Bois Blanc, together with Sugar and Stony Island." He considered this claim to the islands thus peculiarly situated founded upon the free and com- plete right to navigation, a right which in this instance depends upon "a right to territory adjacent to the channel." "To declare that the water lying between the island of Bois Blanc and the Canada shore shall be common to both nations," he said, "is not sufficient to remove the difficulty. It is an even and mutual right of jurisdiction over a navigable water that would remain wanting. Should the Bois Blanc Island fall within the jurisdiction of His Britannic Majesty, the channel 156 «if tjjg channel is to be the boundary, soundings are necessary to determine whether the channel between Grosse Isle and the American shore may not be deeper, as it appears to be wider, than that between Bois Blanc and the main shore on the British side of the river" (John Hale's reply of Dec. 12, 1821. Ibid., pp. 1 00-101). Dela- field contended that at the beginning of the labors of the Commission such soundings "were actually taken with much care" (Ibid., p. 101), a contention which Hale was not in a position to contest, as he had not joined the Commission until the end of 181 7 (Ibid., p. 101). But he declares that the late Commissioner Ogilvy had ordered his sur- veyors not to take any soundings (Ibid., 101), and that the Board itself, the only source of authority, had never given orders for such soundings (Ibid. 102). Delafield answered, on December 13, 1821 (Ibid., p. 106), that the minutes of the Board show no record that Ogilvy had ordered the surveyors not to take soundings (Ibid., p. 106). Indeed, he asserts that, to his own certain knowledge, Ogilvy had "assented to the doctrine that the line of the channel should be a rule of decision, and had 'in person and by the most indefatigable exertions,' collected evidence of the soundings of the channels" (Ibid., p. 106). It matters not, he said, "that orders were given to the British surveyors to take no soundings. It is sufficient that they were taken and by the highest authority, viz., the British Commissioner in person" (Ibid., p. 106). Later, at the Board meeting of February 5, 1822 (Ibid., p. 1 1 1), Commissioner Porter sustained this statement, by declaring that "the soundings taken on the Detroit River by Mr. Bird were made for the information of the Board, and by the express directions of Mr. Porter, and with the full knowledge and approbation of Mr. Ogilvy, Mr. Barclay's predecessor." 54 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY on both sides would be bounded by the territory of the one party, and consequently become the empire and jurisdiction of one party; and the navigation of the river subject to its control. It is not meant that this channel which is a highway free and common to all can be by any power usurped for its individual and exclusive use." There was much more to the argument thus summarized; citations of law, quotations from decisions, the opinions of Vattel, the provisions of common law; all were employed to make the American claim to the disputed island overwhelming. John Hale, Agent for His Britannic Majesty, replied on December 8, 182 1, 157 repeating Great Britain's claim to Sugar Island and Stony Island; and adding that "the island of Bois Blanc had not been men- tioned to him as a subject of discussion, and it had therefore remained unnoticed: but the spirit and the letter of the Treaty of Ghent, in his view, applied with additional force in support of the claim of Great Britain to that island, which lay within three hundred and seventy yards of the British shore, and not less than five thousand two hundred yards from the shore of the United States." To Delafield's argument, "that certain islands nearer to the Ca- nadian shore than to that of the United States should be assigned by this Commission to the United States, for the purpose of establishing a well defined jurisdiction to each nation," he opposes the guarantee of the Treaty of 1 794, which declared that all lakes, rivers and water ways should be open to the navigation of the citizens of both coun- tries. 158 "The boundary line . . . ," he said, "can never affect the right of navigation, that being established by the before-mentioned treaty. . . That one party may possess the jurisdiction and another the right of passing within the limits thereof cannot be doubted. This is seen every day and in every country . . ." It was his conclusion that all three islands should be adjudged British. Delafield again replied on December 11, 182 1, 159 with a veritable thesis, of fifteen closely written fools-cap pages. It was his view that "neither power should possess all the channel when, by following the natural course of the river, it can be avoided." "To equalize the rights of navigation upon the Detroit," he contended, "... the sovereignty of either party should extend to the middle of the channel." And he ended his argument upon that same point, by urging "an equal right 167 Text: Journal Commission under Art. VI, pp. 72-83. 168 (Journal of the Commission under Article VI, p. 74.) Hale also quoted Jay's Treaty to the effect that "no higher or other tolls or rates of ferriage, than what are on shall be demanded on either side." 169 Text: Journal of the Commission under Art. VI, pp. 84-99. INTRODUCTION 55 to navigation, that could only be secured in the Detroit by the right to jurisdiction to the middle of the channel." Hale's reply of December 12, 182 1, 160 shows that Delafield's argu- ments had not in any way altered his sense of obligation to claim "all the three islands in question in behalf of his Britannic Majesty." The last word in the long debate went to Delafield, who, on Decem- ber 13, 182 1, 161 reasserted his contention, claiming "the right of the United States to an equal half of the navigable channels of the De- troit." 162 The Agents then agreed "to submit the questions that have arisen between them to the impartial determination of the Commissioners." 163 On December 18, 1821, Delafield explained to Secretary Adams: 164 "After frequent verbal conferences between the Commissioners, it was . . . agreed that the line under the sixth article could be designated . . . except for a few miles in the mouth of the Detroit River. "The Agents of both governments, accordingly, presented their claims to the islands in this river, and, having essentially differed upon the rights of their respective governments, and also upon the rules of decision that should be adopted by the Commissioners, a discussion arose that has led to a partial disagreement. In order to place this sub- ject before you, I transmit herewith copies of the claims and arguments laid before the Board by His Britannic Majesty's Agent and myself. "The territorial value of the islands in dispute is trifling, but their control of the Detroit River, in both a civil and a military sense, at- taches to them some consequence. "It seems that most importance is given to these islands by the British Commissioner, because of their military control of the Detroit. This may be a subordinate consideration on the part of the United States, still it derives additional weight from the fact that it is intended by the British authorities in Canada to concentrate their naval depots on the upper lakes, at the mouth of the Detroit, when Bois Blanc Island shall be declared to be a British island. This circumstance is not mentioned as having any bearing upon the merits of the question, but to explain that, if these islands are relinquished, the British Govern- ment will not only have a civil jurisdiction over the two best channels of the Detroit, but a military power on the spot to act in concert. The 160 Journal of Commission under Art. VI, pp. 100-102. 161 Text: Ibid., pp. 105-108. 162 Ibid., p. 107. 163 Journal of Commission under Art. VI, p. 107. 164 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 56 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY merits of the question are, however, more particularly set forth in the accompanying papers, numbered from i to 6, 165 to which I beg leave to refer. I regret that the discussion has been unfortunately too hastily conducted to give it, on my part, the system and precision that was desirable. "The boundary line has been designated upon the maps 166 conform- ably to the agreement between the Commissioners, excepting the dis- tance of about three miles in the Detroit; . . . "Believing the British claim to be untenable, and that a disagreement in this particular will be made known to the respective governments by the Commissioners, I hasten to lay before you the present state of the proceedings, that you may be apprised of anticipated results." 167 Clearly, he hoped for agreement, but was fearful that, should his argument not prevail, England would take steps which would endanger the whole disarmament agreement made by Rush and Bagot. After discussions in Commission, beginning January 28, 1822, Com- missioner Barclay, on February 5, 1822, informed the American Com- missioner, Porter, that "as an agreement between them, upon the whole boundary under the 6th article, appeared impracticable, he was ready to exchange reports of the points of difference," and the American Commissioner at once agreed, 168 suggesting that "the ample informa- tion in regard to the depth and soundings of the said river (Detroit) and channels which had been collected by the naval officers of Great Britain, and the United States officers of the Engineering Department, ..." should be placed on the records of the Board "for the benefit of the tribunal to which the establishment of this part of the line may be referred, in the event of a disagreement between the Commissioners, which seemed probable." Barclay declared this unnecessary, "as the Sovereign to whom the points of difference may be referred can de- cide upon the adoption of one or the other of the principles urged by the respective Commissioners." 169 Porter then proposed that the two Com- 166 These six papers are filed with the above letter in the National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 166 All the maps are preserved in the National Archives, map section, and have been studied by the present writer. 167 On Dec. 28, 1821, Delafield recorded in the Journal (submitted July 24, 1822, Mss. in National Archives) the "accounts of the American Commissioner from March, 1819 to March, 1820, totaling Si 2,474.57." The items are recorded in detail on p. 47. He added that he had "also examined the expenditures of the British Commission from January, 1819 to January, 1820 which amount to ^2,480.7.11," or $9,945.59" The British Agent, J. Hale, signed his statement in concurrence. 168 Ibid., pp. 1 09- 1 10. 169 Ibid., p. 112. INTRODUCTION 57 missioners declare and commit to the Journal the results of their de- liberations "in order that it may distinctly appear upon what points they agree and upon what they differ." 170 And Barclay accepted the suggestion. From their statements it did "distinctly appear" that the Com- missioners agreed upon the line from St. Regis (or the "Stone monu- ment erected by Andrew Ellicott 171 in the year 181 7") to "the middle of the mouth of the Detroit River." 172 They also, as distinctly, showed disagreement "as to the course of the boundary from the point last mentioned to another point in the middle of the Detroit River, opposite to the lower end of Fighting Island (or Great Turkey), 173 Mr. Barclay being of the opinion that the boundary ought by the true construction of the Treaty of 1 783 to pass along said river between Sugar, Fox and Stony Islands on the East, and Celeron, Hickory, and Grosse Islands on the West; and Mr. Porter being of opinion that, by the true con- struction of the said treaty, the boundary should pass along the channel of said river, between the Canada shore and Fighting Island on the East and Bois Blanc and Stony Islands on the West." 174 The question having been stated so far, the Board adjourned, to meet at Utica, June 3, 1822; but, at the request of Mr. Porter, that day was later changed to June 18, 1822, 175 when "Mr. Commissioner Barclay presented to the Board the following paper on the subject of the differences of opinion which existed at the time of the last ad- journment 176 respecting a certain portion of the boundary line. . . . "The undersigned Commissioner of His Britannic Majesty informs the Commissioner of the United States that he has communicated to the Government of His Majesty the proceedings of the Board relative to the boundary embraced by the sixth article of the Treaty of Ghent; and that he at the same time expressed his confident opinion that, in 170 Ibid., pp. 1 1 2-1 18 shows where they agreed, and pp. 11 7-1 21 shows where they differed. 171 At an earlier date associated with Major Pierre Charles L'enfant in laying out the City of Washington. 172 Journal of the Commission under Art. VI, pp. 112 and 116. 173 Journal, p. 124. 174 Journal of the Commission under Art. VI, p. 116. See also Porter to Adams, Feb. 9, 1822 (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1). The Journal then describes agreement upon the line from the south end of Fighting Island to "the foot of the Neebish Rapids." (Journal of July 24, 1822, pp. 116-117). 176 Journal of the Commission under Art. VI, pp. 118-119. 176 (Text: Journal of the Commission under Art. VI, p. 119). The Mss. copy sent by Porter to the Secretary of State is preserved in the National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 58 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY case of a reference of the points in difference to some friendly Sovereign or State, to decide upon the same, the result would prove favorable to His Majesty's interest. That he has nevertheless received instructions from His Majesty's Ministers, rather to concede to the United States the possession of the three islands, namely Sugar, Fox and Stony, which form the ground of controversy than to break off the amicable negoti- ation on foot, between the respective Commissioners. . . . The under- signed therefore is ready to cede Sugar, Fox and Stony Islands, to the United States; provided the Commissioner of the United States agrees to appropriate the Island of Bois Blanc to His Majesty; and to establish the line in the water passage between Bois Blanc and the three before mentioned islands." 177 Porter promptly declared his willingness "to accept the offer to adopt as the boundary the channel between Bois Blanc Island on the one side and Sugar, Fox and Stony Islands on the other;" but he clearly stated that he accepted it as "a compromise of conflicting opinions," it being understood that "no part of this arrangement shall be con- sidered as an abandonment by either of the Commissioners of any principles which they may have heretofore respectively assumed for the establishment of the boundary." "The points of difference heretofore existing," says the Journal, 178 "having been thus amicably adjusted, the Commissioners thereupon prepared and executed in duplicate a joint report to the two govern- ments, declaratory of their agreement on all matters submitted to them by the sixth article of the Treaty of Ghent." It was signed in duplicate by Porter and Barclay, at Utica, on June 18, 1822, 179 and a copy was 177 (Journal ofthe Commission under Art. VI, p. 120). As late as Dec. 17, 1821, the Commissioners had agreed to refer their differences to J. Q. Adams and Canning, the British Minister at Washington (Porter to J. Q,. Adams, Dec. 17, 1821. Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1). With this letter Porter sent a map showing the lines. He predicted a compromise after which "we shall no longer differ about the line." 178 Journal of Commissioners under Art. VI, pp. 121-122. 179 (Text: Senate Docs. Vol. 47, 61 Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 620-632). In general the equi- distant rule and the rule not to divide islands had been observed. "What is justice, but the application of the same laws to the rights of all parties?" asked Barclay, in urging the same rules for the survey under Art. VI (Doc. 451, House Docs. Vol. 11, p. 60). It was a complicated document, as decision had to be made concerning the owner- ship of a multitude of islands, most of them designated only by numbers. It was ac- companied by "a series of maps . . . exhibiting correct surveys and delineations of all the rivers, lakes, water communications and islands, embraced by the Treaty of 1 783." But, as appears from the Diary which follows, an equally harmonizing principle was that islands should not be cut by the boundary line, but assigned in their en- tirety, to the one side or the other. INTRODUCTION 59 delivered to each of the two governments concerned, each accompanied by a "series of maps 180 . . . exhibiting correct surveys and delineations of all rivers, lakes, water communications and islands embraced by the sixth article of the Treaty of Ghent." It declares "the true boundary intended by the two, according to the . . . treaties (1783 and 18 14)" as follows: "Beginning at a stone monument erected by Andrew Ellicott, Esquire, in the year 181 7, on the south bank or shore of the said river Iroquois or Cataragua (now called the Saint Lawrence), which monument bears South 181 74°45' west, and is eighteen hundred and forty yards distant from the Stone church in the Indian village of St. Regis, and indicates the point at which the 45th parallel . . . strikes the said river. Thence, running north 35 and 45' west, into the river, on a line at right angles with the southern shore, to a point one hundred yards south of the opposite island called Cornwall Island. 182 Thence turning westerly, and passing around the southern and western sides of said island, keeping one hundred yards distant therefrom, and following the curvatures of its shores to a point opposite to the northwest corner or angle of said island. Thence to and along the middle of the main river, until it approaches the eastern extremity of Barnhart's Island. Thence northerly along the channel which divides the last mentioned island from the Canada shore, keeping one hundred yards distant from the island, until it approaches Sheik's Island. 183 Thence, along the middle of the strait which divides Barnhart's and Sheik's Island to the channel called the Long Sault, 184 which separates the two last mentioned islands from the Lower Long Sault Island. Thence, westerly (crossing the center of the last mentioned channel) until it approaches within one hundred yards of the north shore of the Lower Sault Island. Thence up the north branch of the river, keeping to the north of, and near, the Upper Sault (sometimes called Baxter's) Island, and south of the two small islands, marked on the map A and B, to the western extremity of the Upper Sault, or Baxter's Island. Thence, passing between the two islands called the Cats, 185 to the middle of the river above. 180 "The line," says the decision ( Journal of the Commission, under Art. VI, p. 123), "is more clearly indicated on a series of maps accompanying the report, ex- hibiting correct surveys ... by a black line, shaded on the British side with red, and on the American side with blue, and each sheet of which series of maps is identified by a certificate subscribed by the Commissioners, and by the two principal surveyors employed by them." 181 This word is omitted in the edited edition in Senate Docs. Vol. 47, 61 Cong., 2d Sess. pp. 620-623, but appears in the Mss. copy in National Archives. 182 The native savages called Cornwall Island Kou way no Kowana. Inscription on map no. 1 . 183 Marked "Le Canal ecarte" on the map. First Sect. No. I. 184 The Mss. of the Journal of July 24, 1822 spells this so: but on the map No. I accompanying the Journal it is spelled Saut: but in No. I it is marked L'Isle au Longue Sault, the one "Inferieur," the other "Superieur." 186 Marked on map No. II as "Les Isles aux Chats." 6o THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Thence along the middle of the river, keeping to the north of the small islands marked C. and D. 186 and north also of the Chrystler's Island, and of the small island next above it, marked E. until it approaches the northeast angle of Goose Neck Island. Thence along the passage which divides the last-mentioned island from the Canada shore, keeping one hundred yards from the island, to the upper end of the same. Thence south of, and near, the two small islands called the Nut Islands. Thence north, and near, the island marked F and also north of the island called Dry or Smuggler's Island." And so the description goes on, detailed, exact, clear, if unspeakably dull from the reader's standpoint. It describes just how it passed be- tween the islands marked G and H just before reaching Rapid Plat, and Presque Isle; to the north of Gallop Islands, numbered from one to ten, to the south of Duck, Drummond's and Sheep Islands, (Isle au Mouton), Bluff Island, Granadier Island, Well's Island, Rowe's Island, Grindstone, Hickory, Grand or Long Islands, Carlton, Grand Island in Lake Ontario, Fox, Stony and Gallop Islands in the same, to the south of the Ducks, in the middle of Lake Ontario. It leads us westward, to the mouth of Niagara River and up its middle to the Great Falls. It climbs those falls, through the Horse Shoe, keeping west of Iris or Goat Island. It follows the bend of the river to the strait between Navy and Grand Islands, and thence to the head of Navy Island. It moves west and south to Grand and Beaver Islands, and thence west to Lake Erie. It runs across the middle of Lake Erie, south and west, entering the passage south of Middle Island. It follows that passage, proceeding north of Cunningham Island, the three Bass Islands, and the Western Sister. It passes Hen and Chickens to their south, the Eastern and Middle Sisters to their south, and enters the mouth of the Detroit River, seat of the differences now adjusted, by the channel which divides Bois Blanc and Sugar Islands. It ascends the Detroit River leav- ing said Bois Blanc on its east and Sugar, Fox and Stony Islands on its west. It proceeds to Great Turkey Island (Fighting Island), passes on its western side, to the middle of the river above, and from thence along the middle of the river to Hog Island, which it passes on its south east side. It passes north of Isle a la Pache, to Lake St. Clair, through the middle of which it proceeds to Old Ship Channel, an- other name for the St. Clair River. Through the middle of this it passes to Squirrel Island, and onward, leaving Herson's Island on the north- west. Passing to the upper end of Herson's Island, to a point nearly opposite Point aux Chenes, on the American mainland, it enters St. Clair River and passes up its middle, leaving Belle Riviere Island and 186 G. and D. appear on map No. II. INTRODUCTION 61 Isle aux Cerfs to its east, until it enters Lake Huron. Taking the middle of Lake Huron it passes between Drummond's Island and Little Manitou Island by the middle of the passage between them, and then, turning north and west, around Drummond's Island, to the passage between St. Joseph's Island and the American shore. Thence it runs to the north of a group of islands numbered 61, 1 1, 10, 12, 9, 6, 4, and 2 and south of another group, 15, 13, 5, and 1. Then, keeping to the north and east of Isle a la Crosse, and threading its way among two groups of numbered islands, it crosses the river at the head of St. Joseph's Island, and at the foot of Neebish Rapids, a point which was the termination of the line directed to be run by the Sixth Article of the Treaty of Ghent. The agreement declared that all islands between this line and Canada belonged to England, and those on the American side of it were American territory, "in conformity with the true intent of the second article of the .... treaty of 1 783 and of article VI of the Treaty of Ghent." On February 9, 1822, Porter wrote to John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State: "I have the satisfaction to inform you that the Commissioners under the 6th and 7th articles of the Treaty of Ghent finished their adjudication under the said sixth article at the last meeting in Phila- delphia." 187 This agreement settled "amicably and definitely," as General Porter later explained, 188 "that part of the line, the establishment of which is made the special object of the sixth article of the Treaty of Ghent," that is from St. Regis to the water communication between Lake Huron and Lake Superior, known from the days of the earliest French 187 (Mss. in National Archives), Porter's name first and Barclay's next. In a note to the Secretary of State, dated Utica, June 21, 1822, Porter confessed that he had resented Barclay's claim that, "in consideration of the greater dignity of his Sovereign and Government," he should put his name first on all copies of the report. They finally agreed to "alternate this distinction." 188 (Report of the American Commissioner, Black Rock, N. Y., December 12, 1827. House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong. 2d Sess., pp. 3-4 of Document 451). In this report General Porter adds: "We were successful in establishing the entire line of boundary, under the sixth article of the treaty, as the same is minutely described in our final award; a copy of which will be found in our Journal, under date of June 18, 1822." No reference to this is found in Major Delafield's Diary, however, and he declares his conviction that they had observed the general rules which he states on p. 9 of his report. The report of the British Commissioner, dated New York, October 25, 1827, says: "On the 18th day of June, 1822, the said Commissioners closed the execution of the duties assigned them under the 6th article of the Treaty of Ghent, by making a joint report to that date" (House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., Doc. 451, p. 43). 62 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY explorers as La Riviere de St. Marie. 189 The end of this line was the foot of Neebish Rapids. "We have," he proudly assured the Secretary of State, on February 12, 1822, 190 "designated the line with a cer- tainty and precision which will preclude all future disputes and doubts." 191 These adjustments complete, the Commissioner, General Porter, dispatched by Major Delafield a report to the Secretary of State "de- claratory of the particulars of our agreement," 192 and a promise to send later a copy of the entire Journal. On July 24, 1822, Joseph Delafield, as Agent of the United States, presented to John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State, "a duplicate (in manuscript) of the Journal of the Proceedings of the Board of Commission under the sixth article of the Treaty of Ghent; 193 together with copies of the several papers, documents, accounts, and reports referred to in the said Journal, and which are of record particularly describing the same. "These several records, as delivered to me by the Commissioners, in conformity with the eighth article of the treaty comprise the 'duplicates of their respective reports, declarations, statements, and decisions, and of their accounts, and of the Journal of all their proceedings.' They also exhibit the claims that have been made in behalf of the respective governments, with the evidence on the files of this Commission." "I have also the honor to present," continues his statement, still preserved in the National Archives in its original manuscript form, 194 "a series 189 "The water communication between lakes Huron and Superior has been known, time out of mind, or from the first French memorials, ... as La Riviere de St. Marie." (Doc. No. 451, House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong. 2d Sess., p. 96). 190 Porter to J. Q. Adams, Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 191 From Peter B. Porter's report (House Docs., Vol. II, 25th Cong., 2d. Sess. p. 3). 192 The entire collection of Mss., maps, memoranda, etc. concerning the Com- mission under the Sixth Article are preserved in the National Archives. Almost all of the maps used to illustrate the present volumes are from that collection. 193 The Journal, presented to Secretary of State, John Quincy Adams, by Major Delafield, on July 24, 1822 (Mss. in National Archives), gives the minutes of the first meeting at Albany, Nov. 18, 18 16, including special meetings which each Commis- sioner had a right to call after "reasonable notice to the other" (Journal 15). All these minutes were in duplicate and one copy was held by each secretary (Journal 15). This Journal is signed: "D. Fraser, Sec. Peter B. Porter J. Bisby, As. Sec. Anth. Barclay Joseph Delafield Agent of the United States Under the 6th and 7th articles of the Treaty of Ghent June 22, 1822." 194 This statement appears over Joseph Delafield's signature, in the volume of the INTRODUCTION 63 of maps exhibiting correct surveys of all the rivers, lakes, water com- munications and islands embraced by the sixth article of said treaty with the boundary line designated thereon: and also the report or declaration of the Commissioners, duly authenticated, upon which the decisions were fixed. Washington, July 24, 1822. "I have the honor to be, with the greatest respect, Your most obedient servant, Jos. Delafield, 195 Agent, U. S." So ended, in gratifying harmony, all controversies under Article VI of the Treaty of Ghent; and it is evident that the satisfactory result was due, in no small measure, to the skill of the American Agent, though it would be unfair not to add, and the generous magnanimity of the British Government. UNDER ARTICLE VII The Joint Commission turned to the line to be run under the VII Article of the Treaty of Ghent, with an encouraging hope of agreement, a priori though it was. At first Pigeon River was assumed by both Com- missioners to be the location of the Long Lake of the Treaty of 1783, and both were inclined to run the line by the well known Grand Portage Route 196 which, starting south of Pigeon River, joined it above the falls. 197 Their instructions, however, permitted the exercise of dis- cretion in the event that a better knowledge of the country should indicate a better route, or one more in keeping with the wording of the Treaty of 1783. In a report to the Secretary of State, John Quincy Adams, dated February 12, 1822, 198 General Porter explained the Commission's plans for adjusting the part of the boundary under the Seventh Article of the Treaty of Ghent. Under the Sixth Article, he points, with par- Journal still preserved in the National Archives, under title, Treaty of Ghent, Article 6, Report of Proceedings, Department of State. 196 The present editors have read all of these documents, now preserved in the Nat- ional Archives in Washington, D. G. 196 Grand Portage route was "a route well known to the Northwestern traders, as commencing at a point on Lake Superior, near the mouth of the Pigeon river which empties into Lake Superior abreast of Isle Royale, and about 80 leagues to the north- east of the mouth of the St. Louis river, on Fond du Lac." (Porter's Report of Dec. 12, 1827, text: House Documents, Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., Doc. 451, p. 23). 197 See Joseph Delafield's Report, House Doc. 451, House Docs. Vol. 1 1 25th Gong., 2d Sess. 198 Text: National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 64 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY donable pride, the Commission was able "to designate the line with a certainty and precision which will preclude all future disputes and doubts in regard to it. . . . They have ascertained the precise location and the several areas of more than two thousand islands. . . . The Seventh Article" he adds, "embraces an extent of one thousand miles of boundary, about one half of which is across deep water, and the other half overland, and the whole through a totally wild and unin- habitated country, affording no means of comfort or even subsistance of the persons employed in this service, and a climate so cold and in- hospitable that only a small portion of the year can be improved in active duties. The course to be pursued in establishing the boundary under this article, which divides so remote and comparatively unim- portant territory, will be essentially different." What that difference was appears from the instructions which the Board drew up for the guidance of Delafield, Hale and the other work- ing members of the joint expedition. 199 "In ascertaining the boundary under the VII article," they said, "you are aware that it is not our intention to pursue the course of a trigonometrical survey observed under the Sixth. 200 It will however be desirable that we have a survey of the shores and islands between the foot of the Neebish Rapids and Lake Superior. . . . "In proceeding through Lake Superior to the northward of the isles Royal and Phelipeaux (if there be any of the last name) 201 examine whether any islands lie so near the boundary line described in the Treaty as to render it doubtful on which side of the said line they may 199 (Mss. in the Journal of the Commissioners under the VI Article, pp. 132-134, in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent.) Later instructions said: "Proceed as early as practicable in the spring to complete the surveys . . . from the mouth of Pigeon river to the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods." 200 The change was due to complaints from Washington as to the expense of the surveys under Article VI. It was poor economy, as this part of the boundary had later to be determined by triangulation. 201 Research showed that there were none of the last name. Porter warned the Secretary of State, John Quincy Adams, on Feb. 12, 1822 that "the description of the boundary in the Treaty of 1 783, as indicated by a succession of geographical points and references, is not applicable to the localities ... as they have since been found to exist. And it will become necessary to explore and examine . . . not only the points referred to in the Treaty, but also other parts of the adjacent country, in order to determine — not where the line must go to conform with the description in the Treaty — for that is deemed impracticable — but where it ought to be established, to comport best with the views of the parties at the time of making the treaty." (Mss., Porter to Adams, Feb. 12, 1822, in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelop I, Folder 1.) The name appears as Philipeaux in these instructions, but other documents spell it Phelipeaux. -I I U H UJ z h o < I- 2 Q Z I H Q W < * M cr D H < Z - - z z w < < J Q < Z z < o . < a z H INTRODUCTION 65 be situated, and if any such be found, ascertain by the most easy and expeditious means the shape and extent of them, as well as of the isles Royal and Phelipeaux, and also their geographical position, either by astronomical observations, or by triangles connecting them with the main shore or other islands, whose position is known. "After passing Lake Superior, ascertain the position of the Long Lake, or (if no lake of that name is to be found) 202 the chain of waters supposed to be referred to in the Treaty, by that designation. Should you discover (as you probably will) that these waters do not communi- cate with Lake Superior, ascertain what rivers or waters, divided by a height of land, and emptying one into Lake Superior, and the other into the Lake of the Woods, approximate most nearly. Fix the latitude and longitude of their points of approximation, and perambulate these waters downwards, observing their courses and distances, and also the islands in them, their situation and extent. Fix the latitudes and longi- tudes at which these rivers communicate with the respective lakes. "As to the Lake of the Woods, make such rapid surveys of its shores and islands as upon examination thereof you may deem necessary to a fair designation of the boundary." They were also to determine the location of the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods mentioned in the Treaty of 1783, a point vastly important as determining the location of the boundary west from the Lake of the Woods. "In fixing the latitude and longitude of the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods," continue the instructions, "great care and accuracy must be observed. "As regards the other geographical points, mentioned in these in- structions, you will determine them with ordinary certainty. . . . "After perambulating and ascertaining the approximating waters, between Lake Superior and the Lake of the Woods, if any doubt should be entertained by you as to the direction which the boundary ought to take, we wish to be advised of it as early as practicable, in order that we (the Commissioners) may proceed, if necessary, to that place to determine such difficulty. "It is expected of the Agents that they will be prompt and vigilant in supplying all the wants of the surveyors and of their parties, and that they will at all times, whether present or absent, assist them with their advice." Unfortunately the Agents, and following their opinions the Com- missioners, disagreed from the first regarding the rules under which this work was to be conducted. Barclay, the English Commissioner, 202 The difficulty proved to be finding too many Long Lakes. 66 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY strongly held 203 that the same rules "ought to govern them in the present boundary under the Seventh Article, in every portion thereof, particularly in the Neebish Channels, 204 as in all other parts which have been agreed upon." He averred that he had given his assent to the line, settled under the Sixth Article of the Treaty of Ghent, "only under the confident expectation that the line under the Seventh Article would be determined according to the same rules." He had anticipated that those rules, while depriving England of certain places covered by Article VI would give her in compensation St. George's Island. 205 Porter, on the other hand, insisted that "the whole line of boundary from St. Regis to the water communication between lakes Huron and Superior had been determined without the aid of any pre-established rules or principles, excepting that which required that the islands should not be divided." 206 And Delafield, as has been shown, had argued that rules should be applied only "with such departures therefrom as the necessities of the case and the interests of the respective govern- ments may require." Judging, quite properly, from the reports of his Agent, Major Delafield, 207 Porter was confident that St. George's Island belonged within the territory of the United States, under the terms of the Peace of 1783, and could not be alienated by the plea that certain rules had been observed under the Sixth Article. And, as Dela- field's surveys furnished new evidence in favor of America's claims, he insisted that the boundary should be drawn along the channel which divides the island from the British or eastern shore, and thus place St. George's Island within the territories of the United States. 208 The British Commissioner persisted in his views, and, in consequence of 803 Doc. No. 451, House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2nd Sess. p. 63. 204 The Middle Neebish Channel, which runs on the west side of St. George's Island (Doc. No. 451, House Docs. Vol. II, 25th Cong., 2nd Sess. p. 99). 206 With his elaborate report of October 25, 1827, Barclay sent several depositions to prove disputed points. One by David Thompson, Astronomer and Surveyor under the 6th and 7th Articles of the Treaty of Ghent, said: "St. George's island, intersected by a line as near as possible equidistant from the opposite main shores, has its greatest part on the British side of the said line." (Doc. No. 451 House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2nd Sess., p. 119.) 206 (House Docs. Vol. 11, Doc. 451, 25th Cong., 2d Sess. p. 9.) The Mss. from which this part of the House Documents was printed is missing from General Porter's papers, in the National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 207 The long, elaborate arguments of Joseph Delafield, for America, and the replies of the British Agent, J. Hale, upon the question of ownership of the islands, and the course of the line in the communication between lakes Huron and Superior appear on pp. 51-108 of the Journal delivered to John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State, on July 24, 1822, by Joseph Delafield, and signed by him as Agent (text: Mss. in Na- tional Archives, marked "Treaty of Ghent, Art. 6"). 208 Barclay's Report, Doc. No. 451, House Docs., Vol. 1 1, 25th Cong., 2nd Sess. p. 4. INTRODUCTION 67 this difference, unanimity was lacking concerning the terms under which the Commission was operating under Article VII. The full details of the surveys appear in the Journal, with important supplementary details in Major Delafield's Diary which follows, and are too voluminous to be presented here, save in so far as they are needed to show what parts of the final boundary were determined under Delafield's personal direction. "Having agreed upon parts only of the boundary proposed to be established under the Seventh Article of the Treaty of Ghent," says the Report of the British Commissioner, Anthony Barclay, 209 "and . . . disagreed as to other parts, . . . they now proceed to commit to the journal the result of their deliberations, by describing and declaring the course of the boundary" in such a way as to show exactly where agreement and disagreement lay. The Journal shows agreement as to half of the line, that is the part extend- ing from the middle of the St. Mary's River, one mile above the head of St. George's Island, westwardly through the middle of that river, between the points Iroquois and Gros Cap, on the opposite shores at the head of St. Mary's River, 210 and into the entrance of Lake Su- perior. 211 The Commission, however, disagreed regarding the other half of the line, namely, "from the termination thereof under the 6th article of the Treaty of Ghent, at a point in the Neebish channel, 212 near Muddy Lake, to another point in the middle of St. Mary's River, about one mile above St. George's or Sugar Island." The British Com- missioner was of the opinion that the line should be conducted from the before-mentioned terminating point of the boundary line under the 6th Article, "to the division of the channel at or near the head of St. 209 House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong. 2d Sess. Doc 451, p. 43. 210 La Riviere de St. Marie was the name given in the memorials of the early French explorers (Doc. 451, House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong. 2d Sess. p. 96). 211 Section 16, of the British Commissioner's report, shows agreement on the line from the middle of St. Mary's River, about one mile above the head of said St. George's Island westwardly, through the middle of that river, between points Iroquois and Gros Cap, on the opposite main shores, at the head of St. Mary's River, and into the en- trance of Lake Superior. The Commissioners agreed that the line should then be run, by a straight course, through Lake Superior, passing to the south of the Isle Cariboeuf (the Journal of the Commission under Article VII is preserved among the manuscripts in the National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Art. VII; but, unlike that under Art. VI, it has not been bound in a connected volume, and it is therefore more convenient to refer to the printed extracts which appear in House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., Doc. 451). 212 Porter's Report of December 12, 1827, speaks of "The last and greatest rapid, the Great Neebish, being opposite the head of Isle St. Joseph." — quoting James Ferguson, Principal Surveyor to the Commissioner under the 6th and 7th Articles of the Treaty of Ghent. House Documents, Vol. 11, 25th Cong. 2d Sess., Doc. 451, p. 31. 68 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Joseph's Island; 213 thence, between St. George's Island and St. Tam- many's Island, turning westwardly through the middle of the middle Neebish, proceeding up to and through the Sugar rapids, between the American main shore and the said St. George's Island, so as to appro- priate the said island to his Britannic Majesty." 214 The American Com- missioner, depending upon evidence furnished by Delafield and his sur- veyors, held, on the contrary that, "instead of directing it between St. George's and St. Tammany's islands and turning westward, so as to leave St. George's Island British," it should turn "eastwardly and northwardly around the lower end of St. George's or Sugar Island," so as to leave St. George's Island American. Such a course, the British Commissioner declared contrary to all previous rules and practices of the Commission, the "one solitary case in which the American Com- mission has objected to establishing the boundary in the middle, equi- distant from the main shores." 215 And he added this statement, which emphasizes his determination not to yield in this case as he had yielded in a disagreement under the 6th Article: "The undersigned cannot for a moment allow himself to believe that the friendly sovereign or state, to whom these differences are to be referred for decision, will permit the United States to insult the virtue of national good faith, that only law between empires, by granting their claim to that which they have virtually pledged to another." 216 Clearly it was his opinion that, should it prove necessary to call in some outside power to arbitrate, St. George's Island would inevitably go to England. But Delafield and, following his reasoned opinion, Porter were equally confident that such an umpire would award that island to America, as indeed was later the case when Webster and Ashburton took up the dispute and settled it, as will be shown later. 217 A second serious disagreement was over the ownership of the Neebish Islands. 218 Barclay announced that, subject to controlling orders from 118 Neebish Island. 114 The argument of the British Commissioner appears in House Docs. Vol. II, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., Doc. 451, pp. 53-77. 215 Delafield had, at the beginning of the work under Art. VII, clearly stated the view that formulae were dangerous, and that the Commission should be ready to disregard both rules and precedent when adherence to either would prevent justice; and he held that St. George's Island offered a case in point. 216 Doc. No. 451, House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong. 2d Sess., p. 64. 217 Lord Ashburton, in 1842 accepted the chief points for which Delafield and Porter had contended. By the Webster-Ashburton Treaty St. George's Island became finally American. But it "ceded a land route on the American side of Long Lake by the Grand Portage, instead of adhering strictly to the water line of the treaty," as Dela- field's autobiography points out. 218 The three channels formed by St. George's and St. Tammany's islands, are INTRODUCTION 69 England, he would insist that two of the three should go to the British, and the main channel with them, and the geography of the region seemed to justify his claim. 219 Porter, however, refused such a settlement and the deadlock resulted, which was not broken, this question being left to be settled, like the fate of St. George's Island, by other agencies. Thus, with partial agreement as to part of the line and three very positive disagreements, one concerning rules and two regarding the division of islands, 220 Major Delafield attacked the greater problems of determining the line through Lake Superior and up to the Lake of the Woods. 221 The first part of the line offered little difficulty, as he was instructed not to attempt to determine the line across Lake Superior, vast in extent, by triangulation. 222 Article VII of the Treaty of Ghent under which he operated said simply "through Lake Superior north- ward of the Isles Royal and Phelipeaux," and the Commission's in- structions said, "it is not our intention to pursue the course of a trigo- nometrical survey." But, after reaching a point "northward of Isles Royal and Pheli- peaux," the way to the Long Lake presented problems of vast difficulty. He found Isle Royal, but not Phelipeaux, which, as was later shown, did not exist, at least by that name. Major Delafield's report to the Secretary of State on July 24, 1822, 223 clearly states the problems as he saw them from close at hand. "In respect to the Seventh Article of the Treaty," he said, "great pains have been taken by the Commissioners to effect its speedy execution. The American party now employed con- called respectively the Eastern Neebish, the Middle Neebish, and the Western Neebish. The Western is too shallow for any boats save small ones; the Middle is of good depth, but interrupted by shoals and rocks; the Eastern alone is adapted to large vessels trading between Huron and Sault de St. Marie, 14 miles from Lake Superior (House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong. 2d Sess. Doc. No. 451, p. 54). 218 The American Commission had claimed, on December 5, 1821, at Major Delafield's instigations (Journal of July 24, 1822, p. 46), Bois Blanc, Sugar and Stony islands, and the British the two latter. On December 8, 1821, the British Agent, Hale, had replied to the American claim. Major Delafield, as American Agent, had replied on Dec. II, 1821; the British again Dec. 12, 1821; and the American Agent again on Dec. 13, 182 1. 220 "YVhen Barclay and Porter disagreed upon the question of the Neebish Islands," says, D. R. Moore (Canada and the U. S., 1815-1830, pp. 94 and 95), "nothing further was then done in regard to the boundary farther west than this point." 221 Already the British had abandoned the old Grand Portage route, but as yet they had not advanced the idea that Long Lake lay at St. Louis River, far to the south. 222 This line, as well as the line to the west of the Lake of the Woods, along the 49th parallel, has recently been established and carefully marked by the International Boundary Commission. 223 (Delafield to John Quincy Adams, July 24, 1822, Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2.) Delafield thought that the 70 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY sists of a principal surveyor, and one assistant, who is also the draughts- man, with a few batteau-men to conduct their boats and provisions. "I accompanied our party to Lake Superior, in which neighborhood they had commenced their work, and before I left them every arrange- ment was made to subsist them during the present, and the summer of the next year, in the Northwest Territory. With the supplies afforded and contemplated, together with the provisional arrangement I was enabled to effect through the kindness of the agent of the American Fur Company (in case of accidents) at all their trading posts, I do not doubt the maintenance of this party in the Indian country for the time specified; and should the British Surveyors render an equal service, and, together with our own, prove successful in the performance of the duty expected of them, there is a well-founded belief that the sur- veys and all essential observations and information will be obtained previous to their return. "The passage from Lake Superior to Long Lake, mentioned in the treaty (which probably means Pigeon Bay), may demand more time and labor to explore than has been apprehended. The old Grand Portage route has of late been abandoned by the British traders, and a more northern route assumed. Whether the one or the other of these routes, or an intermediate one, is to be the boundary line, can only be ascertained by explorations of much hardship and labor, on account of the formation of the country which divides the waters that flow into Lake Superior from those that flow toward and into the Lake of the Woods. The Southern or Fond du Lac route 224 does not seem to be in question, although it has, by some persons, been improvidently sug- gested. From the Rainy Lake to the Lake of the Woods the water com- munication is said to be direct, and the greatest task to encounter there will be to produce, in a summary way, a chart of the latter lake suffi- ciently accurate to designate the line through the numerous islands it contains. The exact but laborious trigonometrial survey heretofore conducted it has been determined to abandon, and the surveyors are instructed to ascertain the desired information by a more rapid method (as described in the Journal) with sufficient certainty for the just pur- poses of the Commission. Besides these requisitions of the surveyors, island known as Pat6 was what the Commissioners of 1783 called Phelipeaux: but the International Boundary Commission has selected Keweenaw Peninsula, artificially made into an island, on the Southern shores of Lake Superior, as Phelipeaux. 884 Fond du Lac, was the west bay of Lake Superior, into which the St. Louis River, by far the largest stream which that lake receives, empties. By the St. Louis River there is a route to the interior country, to Lac La Pluie or Rainy Lake and the Lake of the Woods (House Docs. Vol. 11, Doc. 451, p. 35). INTRODUCTION 71 there will be several points of latitude and longitude to be determined, and some of them with great care and accuracy, particularly that of the northwest point of the Lake of the Woods. "I have mentioned these several objects to show that, although there is a reasonable prospect that the work may be perfected in another season, yet there may be obstacles which our imperfect knowledge of the country must keep concealed until our own investigations shall disclose them. From the line of trading posts, but little can be learned that is satisfactory of this part of the Northwest Territory; and it will sometimes occur that the surveyors must explore a section that is un- known and even untrod but by the hunter. I think there has already been made the best prediction of the time it may consume." On September 24, 1822, he reported again to the Secretary of State, 225 this time from Boston, after a season spent in search of Long Lake: "Since I had last the honor to address you, I have made known to the American Commissioners that the Long Lake, mentioned in the Treaty of 1783 (which lake is unknown at the present day by that name), is a sheet of water or passage near the Grand Portage from Lake Superior, 226 and is so laid down and described upon the map used for the purposes of that treaty, as appears by the same in your office. "I have also communicated this fact to our surveyor employed in the northwest. "My last accounts from him state that he should be at Lac la Pluie by the middle of August last, and that on his way there he should take the Old Grand Portage route, which is the Long Lake route, as now properly understood. The British party were to proceed by the same route. 221 I am much gratified to have it in my power to give these particulars, because there is no longer any serious question open as to the general course that the line is intended to be run, and because it is now more certain that upon the return of the surveyors, the next season, the Board will be possessed of all necessary information to determine the doubts, under the 7th article of the Treaty, and designate the line." These documents prove that, in September, 1822, after a season spent chiefly in search of the Long Lake mentioned in the Treaty of 1783, both the Americans and the British were proceeding upon the common theory that the line was at the opening of the Old Grand Portage route, namely at Pigeon River, and that the Fond du Lac route, far to the south was considered, as he said, not to be in question. 225 Joseph Delafield to J. Q.. Adams, Sept. 24, 1822 (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2). 226 Ital. mine. 227 Ital. mine. 72 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Unfortunately, however, this common opinion was promptly aban- doned by the British surveyors, who soon began to direct their atten- tion to the Fond du Lac and the St. Louis River, a route which, if es- tablished would add enormously to British territory. "I first learned to my surprise from Mr. Ferguson, our principal surveyor, who with his party had passed the winter at Fort William," comments Delafield, "that the British surveyors instead of proceeding by the Old Portage route from Lake Superior, which had always been considered the point of departure from Lake Superior, not only by our Commission but by all geographers and the public, had abandoned that route and gone in search of another far south by the Fond du Lac, where it was known there was also an indirect water communication with the Lake of the Woods. They conducted their explorations and surveys by that route and finally the British Agent claimed it as the boundary intended by the Treaty of 1783. As Mr. Ferguson had previously commenced his surveys by the Grand Portage, I advised his continuance of it by the water courses to the Lake of the Woods, which was accordingly done. "When I joined the surveyors in the Lake of the Woods, in the sum- mer of 1823, they had nearly finished their surveys and were about to return." The Diary adds this interesting comment 228 upon the important point of determining which was the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods, important because it was to determine where the boundary westward of the Lake of the Woods should start: "The N. W. point of the Lake of the W r oods we find is not an easy point to ascertain. The truth is that the N. W. end of the Lake is indented by very deep bays. The N. shore has still larger and deeper bays, so that to find the most N. W. point, all these bays and inlets must be explored. ... A question too must be raised, by what rule is the most N. W. point to be ascertained. ... It is very certain that the N. W. point will be North more than half a degree probably of Par. N. 49 , so that the line to be drawn south again to Par. 49 will have a curious effect here. 229 If it is due S. it will interfere with and give back islands that this Com- mission will, I presume, dispose of when they run the line through the middle of the lake. 230 To run S. to 49 along the Lake shore appears to 128 Joseph Delafield's Diary, Vol. 12 of the Mss., p. 1, date August 23, 1823. 229 It is interesting to compare, at this point, the words of the Webster-Ashburton Treaty: "the most northwestern point being a latitude 49°23'55" North, and in longi- tude 95° 1 4/38" west from the observatory at Greenwich; thence, according to exist- ing treaties, due south to its intersection with the 49th parallel of north latitude, and along that parallel to the Rocky Mountains" (Article II, Webster-Ashburton Treaty) . 230 There was no provision that here the Commission should adopt the middle of the lake rule, and, furthermore, if the line was to run due south from the most north- INTRODUCTION 73 be the just and reasonable mode. The observations made for latitude will be inserted hereafter. " Major Delafield started east at 3 p.m. on August 3, 1823, having finished his work at the Lake of the Woods, so far as the season per- mitted. "Pleasant sensations," he confided to his Diary "ensue the performance of an arduous undertaking when required by duty." He had made provision to have the work continued in his absence, and refers to it in a few words in his Autobiography which then goes on with the exploration of the Kamanistegua. "I left Ferguson," adds Dela- field, "to close up some unfinished work and accompanied by Mr. Whistler returned to Lake Superior by the new route of traders known as the Dog River or Kamanistegua 231 route, Mr. Whistler sketching as we returned as good a topographical map of the route as our rapid voyage permitted. I now felt it incumbent to make an offset to the British claim by the Fond du Lac route and devoted my time to this object. The question was to be determined, what was meant by the 'Long Lake of the Treaty of 1783'? In Mitchell's Map it was laid down at the 'Grand Portage.' The British Agent ignored the Long Lake of Mitchell's Map, and I was thus left at liberty also to abandon it. The map upon which the boundary line was traced by the Commission- ers of the Treaty of 1783 could not be found. 232 It thus became in- cumbent to prove the identity of that map, the Mitchell Map; but, knowing that the British Commissioner would persist in his Agent's claim to the Fond du Lac route, I searched for evidence that the Long Lake of the Commissioners of 1 783 was the Long Lake of the Dog River route; and succeeded by the evidence of various British maps, made by the geographers of the King, to substantiate this fact so that the Ameri- can Commissioner (General Porter) decided to sustain my claim to the Dog River route." 2 ' 3 As the effectiveness of such an answer to the British Fond du Lac plan would depend upon the support of the State Department, Delafield, sent the following letter to the Secretary of State. 234 western point of the Lake of the Woods to the 49th parallel, it of course had to run along the shore, although by so doing it would cut off certain peninsulas which were integral parts of the British mainland. A glance at any modern detail map of the Lake of the Woods will show points detached from the neighboring land of the same color, sad relic of the results of the complications referred to by the Journal. 131 The spelling is taken from Delafield's maps. Elsewhere it is often Kamanistiguia, Kaministikwia, etc. " 2 For the story of these famous Red-Line maps see p. 3 of present Vol. us Autobiography. '"Joseph Delafield to John Quincy Adams, October 9, 1823 (text: Mss. in Na- tional Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2). 74 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY "Detroit, October 9, 1823. Hon. John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State Sir: I have the honor to address you, immediately upon my return from the Indian Territory, in the belief that the earliest information concerning the execution of the 7th article of the Treaty of Ghent would be desired. As early in the spring as the Great Lakes were navigable, I commenced a voyage to explore the boundary line to the extreme northwest point of the Lake of the Woods, and to be present with the surveyors who had remained over winter in the interior. Before I overtook them, it was very manifest that the surveys essential to the demarkation of the line could not possibly be finished before the beginning of another winter. This opinion was confirmed when I joined the surveyors and, although the results of their labor give evidence of industry, there remains to be explored and surveyed a section lying between Lake Superior and the Lake of the Woods, that will occupy at least another season of diligent application. The canoe route into the Indian country, from Lake Superior (which is the only way by which a party carrying provisions can enter it) proves not to be entirely by the direct water communication. On the contrary, the traders have opened the easiest route, and wherever the little lakes (which are very numerous) could be readily approached by portages, and when by so doing they could avoid the more circuitous line of direct water communication, sometimes rendered both difficult and dangerous on account of its long and numerous rapids, they have done so. There is, nevertheless, an entire line of water communication from Lake Superior, ascending westward to the height of land, and descending westward from the height of land, to the Lake of the Woods. At the height of land the sources of waters approximate very nearly, so that no difficulty I apprehend in adjusting the line can arise from this in- terruption. It is the deviation of the canoe route from the direct water communication (a fact not heretofore of my knowledge, nor now known to most of the traders familiar with the country) that explains not only how the difficulty of the sur- veyors is increased, but also how my former conjectures as to the completion of the work were founded in error. The peculiar formation of the country adjacent to the boundary line, and next west to Lake Superior, satisfactorily accounts for the ignorance of the traveller in relation to the water courses. It consists exclusively of broken chains of highlands, or mountain ridges, extend- ing in different directions, having lakes and water courses in every valley. Portages connecting these waters, whenever they are interrupted, whether entirely by highland or partially by cataracts and rapids, form the only pos- sible route for the traveller, so that his observations are necessarily confined to the valleys through which he passes. This route deviates in two important instances from the direct water communication. Each of these deviations leaves to the south of the direct communication, or proper boundary line, a chain of small lakes, undoubtedly within the limits of the United States, although claimed and used by the Hudson's Bay Company, as the limit between the two countries. Indeed, the INTRODUCTION 75 canoe route has hitherto been considered by both parties as the boundary, because, as before stated, it is the only known passage into the territory. The adjustments of this line will add considerable territory to the United States; and I am not acquainted as yet with any subject about which there can be a graver difference of opinion, nor about which we can reasonably prefer conflicting and disputable claims. Feeling however quite inadequate to impart any true understanding of this section of the country, of the questions that might be agitated, of the work done, or remaining to be done, without a map or sketch, I beg leave for the present to defer any further description. When I arrive at the end of my journey I will be enabled to prepare such a sketch, and will avail myself of the earliest opportunity to forward it. I have the honor to be, with the greatest respect Yr. most obedient servant Joseph Delafield." Some seven weeks later, in accordance with his promise, he sent to the Secretary of State "a sketch" of this western country, and a long letter of thirteen closely written pages describing it. 235 "It having been ascertained," he said, "that by the Long Lake, mentioned in the Treaty, was meant the mouth of Pigeon River empty- ing into Lake Superior, our surveyors proceeded early in the season of 1822 to enter the Indian Territory by the Old Grand Portage route. This portage is from Lake Superior to the Pigeon River, and intersects it above its great falls and rapids. The Grand Portage was formerly used by the British traders, and was their only passage to the interior. Twenty years ago it was abandoned by them, upon the supposition that it was within the limits of the United States, and they discovered and adopted a more northern route, ascending the river Kamanistegua, which empties into Lake Superior forty miles n.e. from the Grand Portage; and they then established their principal trading depot there, known as Fort William. "The American traders enter the Indian country by a more southern route, through the Fond du Lac country. "Our party ascending the Pigeon River, following the canoe route, and conducting their surveys as they progressed, ascertained when they arrived at the west end of Lac a la Montagne that the water communi- cation was interrupted, and that they were no longer upon the chain of lakes and straits that supply the discharge of Pigeon River. They con- m (Delafield to J. Q. Adams, Nov. 28, 1823, text: Mss. in National Archives Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder a.) The sketch is filed with the letter and shows in great detail the sections of this western country of chief concern to the present narrative. 76 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY sequently made a portage from Lac a la Montagne to the northward and arrived at Arrow Lake. Following Arrow Lake westward, it proved to communicate with the Lake of the Height of Land, and thus directly to the Height from which it derives its sources. To the eastward it was also ascertained that Arrow Lake discharged itself by a river marked on the map Arrow River, which makes a junction with Pigeon River, and thus forms an entire communication from Lake Superior to the Height of Land. ''The party, considering it more important to advance, did not return to explore the descent of Arrow River, so that it still remains as part of the unfinished work. This deviation from the canoe route caused one of the changes to take place in the establishment of the line, by the decision of which will be added to the territory of the United States the chain of lakes lying between Lac a la Rose and the Pigeon River, together with the country intermediate to the two chains of lakes. "The Height of Land, to which they had now arrived, is a barrier that divides the waters, and from whence, they flow both east and west. It ranges northward and southward as far as I have any knowledge of the country, and is the ridge that bounds the great valley of the St. Lawrence in the west. There is of course no such thing as a water com- munication 236 from Lake Superior to the Lake of the Woods. At the Height the two little lakes that lie on either side both emerge from the same valley, and in the spring of the year there is nearly a confluence of their waters; so that the course the line would naturally take over the Height is so evident that it will obviate, I should think, any em- barrassment on account of this interruption. "The party having crossed the Height, again commenced their sur- veys by the canoe route and advanced to Lac Sais-a-gin-e-gaw. Here was found another obstruction. The voyagers made a portage from Lac Sais-a-gin-e-gaw to Lac a la Priarie, 237 but instead of this being in the line of communication, Lac a la Priarie actually discharges eastward into Lac Sais-a-gin-e-gaw, 238 whereas the line would follow the lakes and rivers that must have a direct discharge westward toward the Lake of the Woods. Lac Sais-a-gin-e-gaw was then thoroughly explored, and a river of considerable size was found flowing from it westward. This river was filled with numerous rapids and cataracts by which no carrying places were known, and the party was obliged to proceed by the old route, leaving this deviation also to be ascended upon another 236 The term used in the Treaty of 1783. 837 i.e. Lac a la Prairie. 238 The accompanying map, however, shows land between the ends of these lakes. INTRODUCTION 77 occasion. The Indians stated that Lac Sais-a-gin-e-gaw discharged, by the river alluded to, through a chain of rivers and lakes, into a lake marked on the map Sturgeon Lake, and thence by the new road, as it is called, into Lac a la Croix, where is the junction of the old Grand Portage route with the present canoe route of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany. It could not be ascertained that any white person, or Indian, had ever made the voyage of this deviation from the canoe route. Without a guide, and with laden canoes, it was thought best not to hazard the remainder of the season in an uncertain attempt to descend this river; and in fact it would have been to hazard the safety of the party, in as much as the cataracts that everywhere obstructed the rivers and straights running through the valleys, bounded by precipitous cliffs and highlands, are frequently approached to the very brink before the traveller is conscious of their existence. For this reason these un- explored passes must either be ascended or surveyed in the winter season. "Knife Lake, White Wood Lake, 239 and Crooked Lake have been heretofore considered and asserted to be upon the line of direct water communication. It will be seen by the map that they are all within the limits of the United States, adopting the belief that the discharge of Lac Sais-a-gin-e-gaw is into Sturgeon Lake. "Returning to the canoe route, the party advanced from Lac Sais-a-gin-e-gaw to Lac a la Croix; from thence to the Lake of the Woods there is an entire and indisputable water communication. "The whole distance has been explored to the northwest point of the Lake of the Woods. From Lake Superior to Lake Nemecan, the route has been as accurately surveyed, with the exception of the two deviations described, as is desired. Lac a la Pluie and the Lake of the Woods have been circumnavigated. Many points of latitude have been determined throughout and especially in the Lake of the Woods. "The Lake of the W r oods is a large lake glutted with islands. It is of an extremely irregular shape and, following its bays, may be four hundred and fifty miles in circumference — Lac a la Pluie is not quite so large. It is also indented with numerous deep bays, and also con- tains several thousand islands. The upper lakes are similarly filled with islands. Lac a la Croix, by its survey, contains four hundred and eighty- nine islands, and most of the others in proportion. The islands are entirely of rock, supporting in their fissures a stunted growth of trees, and are of no value in any sense. "The work remaining to be done, in the Indian Territory, according "or Dry Berry Lake" is added in the sketch. 78 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY to my view of the subject, consists of the survey or exploration of the Arrow River from Pigeon River to Arrow Lake: of the river that dis- charges from Lac Sais-a-gin-e-gaw, and of the lakes and rivers be- tween that and Lac a la Croix. The Lake of the Woods, and the Lac a la Pluie, having been circumnavigated, and their area ascertained, it is only requisite to determine what islands are contiguous to a line drawn through the middle of them, and, their positions being noted on the chart, the survey of the remainder is superfluous. To this labor in the interior is to be added the more precise ascertainment of the posi- tion of certain islands known to be in the body of Lake Superior, and which are inaccessible in canoes; and a section of the river St. Mary's about the falls where are a few islands of some importance. Thus much will finish the surveys under the 7th Article of the Treaty. . . ." This letter called attention to the fact that the British, at the time, were using the Kamanistegua route for entering the interior, and the Americans the Fond du Lac route. And it also made quite clear the fact that Delafield was planning to claim the Kamanistegua route as the route of the boundary line, because this would add to American territory "the chain of lakes lying between Lac a la Rose and the Pigeon River, together with the country intermediate to the two chains of lakes." But, before he took that decision, the British had de- cided to claim the Fond du Lac route as the route of the boundary because, as Delafield believed, this would give to them that same chain of lakes. Although Major Delafield had reached the northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods before he overtook his surveyors, and was therefore uninformed of the results of their observations when he wrote this letter, he confidently assured the Secretary of State that "the N. W. point of the Lake of the Woods proves to be further north than we had been led to believe, and is about Lat. N. 49 45'. 240 It will also be near the place where the Winnepee 241 River issues from the Lake of the Woods, and near to the Portage du Rat which is the carrying place from the Lake of the Woods, and the communication of the Hudson's Bay Company with all their posts in that portion of the country. "The northwest point of the Lake of the Woods seems to be of very 240 On Aug. 23, 1823, he was of the opinion that it would prove to be more than half a degree north of 49 , Diary Aug. 3, 1823. The second article of the Webster-Ashburton Treaty later described it as 49°23'55" north, and in longitude 95°i4'38" west of Greenwich. The Commissioners under the VII Article finally placed the monument marking the most N. W. point of Lake of the Woods at 49°23 / 48 // (Porter to Clay, Oct. 18, 1826. Text: National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Enve- lope I, Folder 1). 241 Apparently the Winnipeg River. INTRODUCTION 79 considerable consequence for other reasons besides that of its being a new point of departure for the western boundary. 242 Nor is it a point discoverable as readily as might be supposed. The extreme irregularity of the lake, and very deep inlets about its northwest end, render it questionable what may be its most northwestern point, but I forbear to agitate a question that may possibly not excite a doubt in the minds of others. It is at this place, however, that the only doubt can be raised (in my humble opinion) to the precise direction of all that part of the boundary line embraced by the Seventh Article of the Treaty. "Upon our return from the Lake of the Woods, I separated from the surveyors at Lac a la Croix, to explore the route now used by the Hud- son's Bay Company, commonly called the new road, intending to join them again at Lake Superior. I found the water communication from Lac a la Croix to the Height of Land to be through a similar chain of lakes and straights, and the country of the same description of mountain ranges as the other route, the valleys only being much larger, and con- sequently there is more earth. From the Height of Land by the Kam- anistegua River to Lake Superior, the water communication is direct, and the country far more open, but still mountainous. The rivers and straights are obstructed by very bad and numerous rapids and falls, and there is less water than by the old Grand Portage route. In all directions the country is intersected by lakes and straights. I found that west of the Height the communication was entirely obstructed in one instance, as by the old route, the course being over a little lake from which there was no discharge. Whether or not a direct communi- cation could be discovered in this region is not known, but it is very probable that it might, with the exception of the Height of Land. Since the way is pointed out by which we are to leave Lake Superior, namely through Long Lake, it has become unnecessary to explore in any other direction, and I hastened to arrive at Lake Superior. The British party spent some time in exploring for a route south of the old Grand Portage, but failed in the discovery. . . . "As to the nature of the country beyond Lake Superior, that part of it which is adjacent to the boundary line is most strongly characterized by a formation that is, I believe, quite peculiar, for its extent, to the northwest territory. I mean by mountains and valleys, or rocks and water, to the exclusion of plains and of earth. There are occasionally between Lake Superior and Lac a la Pluie small places of recent 142 Delafield's Diary, under August 3, 1823 explains: "It is of all importance to the H(udson's) B(ay) Company whether we extend our jurisdiction to the Wmnepeg (its entrance) or not. The portage probably can be made elsewhere. The ascertainment of the N. W. point must settle this question." 8o THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY alluvion, about the mouths of rivers, or in narrow defiles where may be found soil enough to drive a tent pin, but it is not a frequent occurrence. ..." It was his opinion that "the surveys will be finished the ensuing summer," an opinion which President Monroe, whether independently or after reading Delafield's letter, re-echoed in his message of December 2, 1823, 243 in the words: "The Commissioners under the Sixth and Seventh Articles of the Treaty of Ghent, having successfully closed their labors in relation to the Sixth, have proceeded to discharge of those relating to the Seventh. Their progress in the extensive survey required for the performance of their duties, justifies the presumption that it will be completed in the ensuing year. ..." As usual, after the surveying season was over Major Delafield had gone east, as has been already said, to organize his results and edit his reports. On February 24, 1824, at Albany, his report as Agent was presented to the Board, dated February 21, 1824. 244 It offers to prove, if the Board wishes proof, "that the boundary line of 1 783 was described upon, and by the aid of, Mitchell's Map of North America published in 1775: 245 (and) that this map shows the position of the places named and consequently the route of the boundary intended to be fixed con- formably to the written description. "It seems to be conceded at this Board that the position of Isle Royal is known, and that the position of Long Lake is unknown, or question- able. Long Lake is described upon Mitchell's Map, as well as Isle Royal, and we have the same and no better authority for one than the other. 246 In short, the indisputable position of Long Lake appears to be so plainly indicative of the route prescribed by the treaty that the undersigned has considered himself not only precluded from the right he might otherwise have maintained of following the direct water communica- tion by the river Kamanistegua from Lake Superior, but that he still feels compelled to adhere to it as the proper point of departure, and shall not consider himself at liberty to assume any other until Long Lake shall be declared to be an imaginary place. . . . The maps pro- duced by the surveyors do not show that they have explored or dis- covered any entire water communication from Lake Superior to the Lake of the Woods. That such communication does, however, exist 247 243 Text: Amer. St. Papers, Foreign Affairs, Second Series, V, 245-250. Cit. p. 246. 244 Text: Mss. in National Archives. Treaty of Ghent , Arts. VI and VII, Envelope Folder 2. 246 This apparently a clerical error as the Mitchell Map used in 1 783 bears date 1 755. 246 Mitchell's Map of 1 755 places Long Lake at the mouth of Pigeon River. 847 He admits "an intervening swamp at the Height of Land", however, as pre- INTRODUCTION 81 ... is known to the undersigned, principally by personal observations and partially by information received from respectable and intelligent persons." He expressed the opinion that "the routes or portions of routes which . . . might be abandoned . . . are . . . the northern route by the river Kamanistegua" and the "southern route by the Fond du Lac, or any other place north or south of Long Lake near the old Grand Portage." 248 This report seems to make clear the fact that Delafield, even after reporting upon his discovery of the Kamanistegua route, believed that the makers of the Peace of 1 783 intended the line to pass westward up Pigeon River, as it was ultimately established by the Webster- Ashburton Treaty. 249 Apparently, though convinced that the Kamanistegua route conformed to the specifications of the treaties, he was ready to abandon the far-north contention if the British would abandon the far-south one. The report of the British Agent, J. Hale, 250 signed the same day de- clared England unable to dismiss Long Lake as an "imaginary place," or to recommend "the abandonment at present of any of the water communications to the north of Lake Superior, because the decision of the boundary finally to be fixed must rest altogether upon the point of departure from that lake, a point which cannot be determined till the existence and position of the Long Lake be ascertained." Two days after these reports were presented to the Board, Com- missioner Porter reported to the Secretary of State, John Quincy Adams as follows: 251 "Albany, February 26, 1824 Sir: The boundary Commission under the 7th Article of the Treaty of Ghent closed a session at this place two days ago. The Agent, Major Delafield, . . . will have the honor to inform you of our progress, and of the prospects of bringing this business ... to close. It has been a matter of much regret with venting complete water communication. 248 Proceedings of the Board held at Albany, Feb. 24, 1824. Mss. in National Archives, pp. 8-9. 249 The Second Article of the Webster-Ashburton Treaty defines the boundary as running "through the middle of the sound between Isle Royale and the northwestern mainland, to the mouth of the Pigeon River, and up the said river to and through the north and south Fowl Lakes to the height of land between Lake Superior and the Lake of the Woods" etc. 260 Text of Hale's report of February 21, 1824 in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Folio I, part 2. 281 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 82 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Major Delafield and myself, that the British Commissioner and Agent should have differed so widely from us. . . . The description in the Treaty of 1 783 of the boundary between the river St. Marie and the Lake of the Woods betrays the great ignorance which then prevailed. . . . The British gentlemen seem to suppose, or at least hope, that they may be able to establish a line between Lake Superior and the Lake of the Woods considerably to the south of the route which we think is evidentiy indicated by the Treaty. ... A rigid adherence to our own views would probably break up the Commission, and we have therefore thought better to yield in part to their wishes." 252 The nature of their concession seems clear from the Journal of the Board meeting of February 24, 1824, vvhich records instructions to the surveyors to "complete the surveys yet required along the water com- munication from the mouth of Pigeon River or its vicinity or Lake Superior, to the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods. . . , 253 After the above work is completed, you may (if you have time and it appears necessary) make further examinations through the Fond du Lac. . . ." This was of course authorization, of a kind, by the Board for surveys on the Fond du Lac route. 254 But it proves that even yet there was substantial agreement on the Pigeon River route westward, al- though now each party had an alternative line ready to advance should that agreement fail in the end. The British hoped to start at Fond du Lac, and Delafield contemplated a start at the Kamanistegua. The idea of compromise failed to eventuate in actual compromise, and the maneuvering for positions and for territory continued, each side building up its case for its alternative route. Some eight months later, Joseph Delafield, as Agent of the United States, sent a memorial to the Commissioners, indicating his views as to what remained to be done, 255 and its contents justify the repetition, as it makes a definite compromise suggestion. "Montreal, October 25, 1824. "The Agent of the United States has the honor to ask that the Board 852 "Major Delafield will hand over to the Auditor . . . the accounts." (Ibid.) 253 (Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII.) It is a photostat copy from the original now in London. This same section of the Journal under Article VII shows Delafield's accounts of expenses, salaries, etc., for the expedition. 264 At the Board meeting at Montreal, on October 28, 1824, "the British Com- missioner declared his intention to order his surveyors to explore a route far to the south of the Grand Portage viz: the Fond du Lac or St. Louis River route . . . The Commissioner of the United States refused to allow the same as a joint order. Thus, at a late date, the first avowal is made that the present operations were unsatisfactory, and for the first time that any doubts existed as to the course the boundary ought to take." (Delafield reporting on the Board meeting at Albany, in February, 1824. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2.) 855 This letter appears twice, in complete form, in Document No. 451, House INTRODUCTION 83 do now proceed to determine the proper place of departure of the boundary line from Lake Superior to the northwest, with a view to supersede the necessity of any further surveys in that direction. "That the Long Lake intended by the Treaty of 1783, to which the line is to run from the north of Isle Royale, is a sheet of water now known by the name of Pigeon River, and is situated near the old Grand Portage; and that it is consequently the route intended to be described by the said treaty, he conceives is sufficiently substantiated by the following testimony, which he has the honor to present: 'First, Mitchell's map of North America, published in 1755, under the sanction of the Lords Commissioners of Trade and Plantations. This map shows the place called Long Lake to be the mouth of Pigeon River (as now called), near the old Grand Portage. 'That it was Mitchell's map upon which the boundary line was described by the Commissioners in 1783, as established by the following documents, which he begs may be filed with the records of the Commission. Joseph Delafield, Agent of the United States." The other "testimony" which he presented consisted of several letters intended to show that Mitchell's Map was used "through the whole negotiation" which produced the Treaty of 1783, and that the boundary lines of the United States were marked on that map. 256 At the end of Document No. 45 1, 257 which contains the evidence above discussed, appear reproductions of several maps, each of which indicates but one direct and continuous water approach from Lake Superior to the Lake of the Woods, and that is marked Long Lake, or Long Lakes, in all except the first (1763), which pictures the water approach practically as do the others, but without naming it. These maps seem to leave little doubt that this was the course of the boundary line as intended by the Commissioners of 1783, and it follows Pigeon River. And this letter shows that Delafield, as late as October 25, 1824 was still desirous of establishing that line, although he was preparing himself to advocate the Kamanistegua route should the Pigeon River be finally rejected by the British. The British Agent, Hale, made his reply to this argument, on October 26, 1824, 258 admitting the soundness of Delafield's claims regarding Documents Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., on p. 77 and on p. 124. This Mss. is on file in the National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 256 He did not then have a copy of any one of the Red-Line maps already dis- cussed in this introduction. 267 House Docs. 25th Cong., 2d Sess., Vol. II, p. 132. 268 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 84 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Mitchell's Map, but insisting that it deserved no credence because of its "numerous inaccuracies," notably respecting the Isles Phelipeaux and Long Lake, "to which the latter body of water laid down in the map bears no resemblance either in extent or shape." He used a state- ment by John Adams 259 to prove the use of Mitchell's Map by the Commissioners of 1783, but used it only to prove the unreliability of Mitchell's Map as an indication of the location of Long Lake. "Under these circumstances," he said, "where can the Commissioners now look for the Long Lake, through which the boundary is to run. After passing to the northward of the Isle Royale nothing like a Long Lake has yet been discovered. But information has been reported that further to the westward than has hitherto been surveyed a lake does exist more nearly answering the description of that sought for; and the undersigned suggests the expediency of that part of Lake Superior being further examined." Clearly, he was now intent upon persuading the Commission to accept the Fond du Lac route, but was not yet ready to advance that line as an ultimatum. An attempt to survey that route would greatly have delayed the conclusion of the Commission's activities, and Porter and Delafield both opposed the idea. These two memorials having been duly considered and filed, the Board, on that same October 26, 1824, "expressed the Commissioners' intention to postpone the determination of this question for the pres- ent." 260 And the next day, October 27, 1824, tne Y instructed the sur- veyors 261 to "employ the whole time of the ensuing winter in projecting and copying a series of plans or maps of their surveys under the Seventh Article of the Treaty of Ghent. "It is intended," said these instructions, 168 "Auteuil, near Paris, October 25, 1 784 In writing upon the subject of the line between Massachusetts and Nova Scotia he (John Adams) observes as follows: We had before us, through the whole negotiation, (1783) a variety of maps, but it was Mitchell's map upon which was marked out the whole of the boundary lines of the United States; and the river St. Croix, which we fixed on was upon the map the nearest river to St. John's; so that, in all equity, good conscience, and honor, the river next St. John's should be the boundary. I am glad the General Court are taking early measures, and hope they will pursue them steadily until the point is settled, which it may be now amicably; if neglected long, it may be more difficult. Attest: John Avery, Jun. Secretary", copied from the 10th Vol. of Wait's State Papers, marked 'confidential,' p. 15." 280 Minutes of the Board meeting at Montreal, October 26, 1824. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts, VI and VII. Envelope I, Folder 2. 261 Minutes of the Board, October 27, 1824. Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Fold. 2. INTRODUCTION 85 "that this series when complete shall exhibit a continuous map of a line of country extending from the Neebish Rapids, in the river St. Mary's to the Lake of the Woods 262 ... As soon as the weather will permit in the spring the surveyors will proceed to execute the unfinished part of the trigonometrical survey of the river St. Mary's, from the termina- tion of the line under the sixth article of the treaty to Lake Superior and also to ascertain by actual observation the position, shape and extent of Cariboef Island in Lake Superior. . . ." 263 On November 10, 1824, Commissioner Porter reported to the Sec- retary of State, John Quincy Adams: 264 "The Board of Commission under the 7th article of the Treaty of Ghent held a meeting at Montreal on the 25th of last month. "The United States Agent, Mr. Delafield, will forward to you a transcript from our Journal, which will apprise you of the present state of our operations, and of the resolution we have formed to close the Commission with the close of the ensuing year. At the meeting which took place in February last, Mr. Delafield and myself were decidedly of the opinion that it would be practicable to bring the business of the Commission to a close during the present year. . . . But the British Commissioner and Agent . . . insisted on a range of surveys and exploration which we deemed unnecessary, and which was calculated to protract the final adjustment of the boundary." Clearly, the British Commissioner was still determined to press his Fond du Lac route to success; but as clearly the American Commis- sioner was determined to waste no time or money upon surveys which could lead to no common conclusion: for he added, that if further "unnecessary" surveys were demanded by the British at the next meeting, 265 he would refuse them "although such refusal should be attended with the breaking up of the Commission." His compromise on the Pigeon River having now been rejected, Porter was ready, as events soon showed, to advance as America's claim Delafield's Kam- anistegua route, a route which Delafield felt himself able to defend as against the Fond du Lac route, but not, as yet, against the Pigeon River route. One week later, i. e. on November 17, 1824, Delafield wrote to the Secretary of State, 266 reporting what had been done since his last re- 262 For these maps, see National Archives, Division of Maps. 263 Xhese things accomplished, the Board adjourned to meet in the City of New York on December 20, 1825. 264 Albany, Nov. 10, 1824. Mss. in National Archives. Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 265 Fixed on adjournment on Dec. 20, 1825. 268 Delafield to Adams, Nov. 17, 1824. Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, 86 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY port and adding, "The British Commissioner, . . . being desirous that the Fond du Lac in the southwest extremity of Lake Superior should be explored, permitted his surveyors ... to attempt it; and by this means the only objects of our attention remaining to be noticed (as the American Commissioner and Agent conceive), to wit, the position of the Cariboef Island in Lake Superior, and a section of St. Mary's River, were neglected, or rather omitted for want of time. ... By the proceedings of the Board it will be seen that the British Commissioner is still intent upon exploring the route by the Fond du Lac" which, if established as the border, would add a vast area to British Canada. 267 While confident that he already held proofs sufficient to prove his contention that Long Lake lay not at the St. Louis but at the Pigeon River, Delafield was still intent upon adding further proofs. "In relation to Long Lake," he suggested to Secretary Adams, 268 "it would not perhaps, in ordinary cases, be requisite to furnish stronger proof of its identity than I have already done. I am desirous, however, to place the question beyond the reach of doubt and cavil, and have thought that the testimony of your venerable father (John Adams who had been a member of the Peace Commission of 1783) might enable me to do so. Permit me to ask whether his health and memory are such as to allow the propriety of addressing him upon the subject? "The sum of the British Agent's argument is that Mitchell's Map con- tains many errors; that the position of Long Lake may be one, because there is a lake to the southwest which is in shape a Long Lake; and the Long Lake of Mitchell's Map proves to be a river. "The errors of the map cannot invalidate the fact of Long Lake being there imprinted, and, whether a lake or river, we know it is the place intended by the Treaty of 1 783 and that the line was carried to it on Mitchell's Map. "Previous to our late meeting I applied to Mr. Jay, (John Jay, one of the Commissioners of 1783) to corroborate these facts, but his at- tention never having been called to the subject since 1783, he declined speaking with sufficient certainty. 269 Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Fold. 2.) In a separate brief note, on this same No- vember 17, 1824, Delafield informed the Secretary of State: "In the course of this week I shall have the honor to present a statement of the proceedings of the Com- mission more in detail." (Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2.) 887 Delafield, confident that America would never accept the Fond du Lac route for the boundary, did not seriously object to British surveys in that region because this would render "more perfect our maps of a portion of the United States territory as yet unknown," to quote the same letter of Nov. 17, 1824. 268 Delafield to Adams, November 17, 1824. Cit. Opp. 269 Details of these questions to Jay see ante, under Jay's Treaty. INTRODUCTION 87 "The proof offered by the British Agent in the form of interrogatories to Mr. Adams, then President, is a valuable document for my purpose, but I am in hopes to obtain a still further proof from him." 270 Apparently Secretary Adams encouraged the questioning of his "venerable father," though the State Department files show no letter from him to prove this. Sufficient proof seems, however, to be the fact that Major Delafield asked his questions, and John Adams answered them. Delafield's questions were as follows: 271 "Boston, August II, 1825 To His Excellency John Adams, Esq: Sir As doubts have been expressed by the Agent of His Britannic Majesty under the 6th and 7th articles of the Treaty of Ghent as to the position of the Long Lake mentioned in the Treaty of 1 783, I have the honor to solicit any informa- tion you can give to identify that Lake, and would beg leave to submit the following questions: Upon what map did the Commissioners trace the Boundary Line described by the Treaty of 1783? Is the Long Lake intended by the Treaty of 1 783 the Long Lake laid down on Mitchell's map? I have the honor to be with greatest respect Yr. obed. servt. Jos. Delafield Agent of the United States, etc." "Quincy, Aug. 13, 1825 John Adam's reply was as follows: To Joseph Delafield Esq: Agent of the United States under the 6th & 7th arts, of Treaty of Ghent. — Sir In reply to your question, upon what map did the Commissioners trace the boundary line described in the Treaty of 1 783 — I answer that it was Mitchell's map. And to your question, whether by the Long Lake intended by the Treaty was meant Long Lake laid down in Mitchell's map — I answer, that it was, and 170 For the questions sent John Adams in May, 1 798, see ante, under Jay's Treaty. 271 Text: Mss. in the possession of Brig. Gen. John Ross Delafield, Montgomery Place, Barrytown, New York. 88 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY that we used no other authority for places named in the description of the boundary line than Mitchell's map. Yours obt. servt. John Adams. Signed in presence of Wm. E. Payne." Accompanying this statement of John Adams, in the collection at Montgomery Place, Barrytown, New York, is the following statement by Major Joseph Delafield as to how and why he had obtained it: "This document was obtained by me under the following circumstances: When in the summer of 1823 I proceeded in the execution of my duties as Agent of the United States under the 6th and 7th articles of the Treaty of Ghent, to visit the surveyors then engaged in the Lake of the Woods, I learned for the first time that the British Commissioner, instead of adopting the Long Lake of Mitchell's map or the old Grand Portage route from Lake Superior inland (which had hitherto been conceded to be the true point of departure), had instructed his surveyors to explore the Fond du Lac route for a water communication toward the Lake of the Woods, thus to my surprise abandoning the Long Lake of Mitchell's map, or old Grand Portage route, as the intended Boundary by the Treaty of 1783. As an offset from this departure by the British Commissioner and Agent from the received Long Lake (as it was under- stood and believed), I searched for a route north of the Grand Portage, and explored the well known route of the traders by the Kamanistegua or Dog River. I had however previously obtained this document for the purpose of establishing the Long Lake of Mitchell's map as the lake intended by the Commissioners in the Treaty of 1 783, having been unable to obtain any of the identical maps used by that Commission, the missing red-line maps remaining concealed. Having succeeded in finding a continuous water communication by the Dog River to the Lake of the Woods (always excepting the 'height of land' by every route) I sought to establish this route as the true boundary and that the Long Lake of this river was the Long Lake of the Treaty. I accordingly made this claim in behalf of the United States, well knowing that the British Com- missioner would adhere to the Fond du Lac route. I was fortunate in obtaining such strong and varied evidences in support of my claim that the American Commissioner (General Porter) felt compelled to sustain it; and thus the dis- agreement between the two Commissioners the British insisting upon the Fond ud Lac route- I had no occasion therefore to make use of this document, it being inconsistent with my claim 272 and, it forming no part of the evidence produced, I have retained it in my possession. It is nevertheless of more interest than is apparent owing to the manner in which I sought to identify the Long Lake of the Treaty. 272 His claim was that the Commissioners of 1 783 intended the line to start west- ward through Pigeon River. 1 V ij T \l ^ ** 1 f : t. x s vi r i ,*» i i K^ J t *.^ r ^ X >^ i ^ ft.**-'- > \ > x K x V vj INTRODUCTION 89 Mr. John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State, furnished me with a copy of Mitchell's map, the only one in the Department, and accessible. I took it to Bedford to lay it before Mr. Jay, and explained to him the object of my visit. After some hours spent there, in company with his son, William Jay, my former schoolmate, the Governor replied to my inquiries and stated that several maps were used by the Commissioners; that he could not state upon which they traced the Boundary, nor which was the Long Lake. I then proceeded to Quincy, to lay the Mitchell map before the venerable John Adams an associate Commissioner with Mr. Jay, having made similar explanations to him of my object in offering the map. He promptly replied, 'it is useless, Mr. Delafield, to present the map, my eyesight would not enable me to designate the Long Lake, but I well remember that it was Mitchell's map upon which we traced the Boundary line.' I asked him if he would allow me to submit to him in- terrogatories in writing to establish this fact. He replied 'certainly,' and this document was the result of that interview. Had the red-line map at that time, been available, it should have prevented the British Commissioner from claim- ing the Fond du Lac route and my counterclaim to the Dog River route. 273 It might have prevented the disagreement between the Commissioners under the 7th Article of the Treaty of Ghent and could have spared the U. S. the subsequent compromise agreement in relation to the Grand Portage route entered into by Mr. Webster and Lord Ashburton. Of the inducement on the part of Mr. Webster to yield this water line route I have no knowledge. Some red-line maps are now known to exist; 274 and I am informed that one of them was found among the papers of Gov. Jay since his decease. 276 The American Commissioner (General Porter) would have adopted the Grand Portage route if mutually agreed upon, but the British Commissioner (Mr. A. Barclay) was unyielding in his claim to the Fond du Lac route. This evidence it was useless to produce. My claim to the Dog River route being sustained it 878 formed no part of the evidence before the Commission. I have retained it as too important to throw aside. It may never be of value hereafter as evidence, but as an authentic instrument bearing upon a disputed point I accompany it with this note explanatory of its purpose etc. Jos. Delafield March 21, 1868." On the reverse of the last sheet of this statement Major Delafield wrote: "N.B. The red-line map discovered by Mr. Sparks 277 is said to have been a map by Faden; 278 and whether or not a Mitchell's map with the boundary 171 The one was to offset the other as Delafield here clearly admits. His own con- viction, that Pigeon River was the point intended by the Commissioners of 1783, was never abandoned by him, but General Porter thought best to abandon it in favor of his Kamanistegua route. 174 These have been discussed in the previous pages of this Introduction. 276 That one, signed by him, is now in the New York Historical Society. 278 By "it" he means his arguments to prove the Pigeon River route. 277 Described earlier in this Introduction. 278 The lettering is so indistinct that the name cannot be made out with certainty. go THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY traced upon it as Mr. Adams certified has been yet produced I am not in- formed. J.D." Later, however, when he wrote his Autobiography, he was no longer lacking that information, for he wrote: "The difference was sub- sequently settled by the Webster and Ashburton Treaty, adopting the Long Lake of Mitchell's maps by the Grand Portage. This difference should not have occurred, nor would it, if the missing red-line maps of 1783 could have been produced. It has since been discovered in the private library of George III, and I have reason to believe a copy of Mitchell's map showing the red line was in possession of one of the American Commissioners but inaccessible when wanted. 279 "Mr. Webster, for some reason, conceded a land route on the Ameri- can side of the Long Lake by the Grand Portage instead of adhering strictly to the water line of the Treaty. It is true the water line is im- practicable in this as in other cases of falls and rapids and that the con- cession is not material. Nevertheless as a concession it is reasonable to conclude that he derived an ample equivalent in the readjustment of the more important and long disputed North Eastern boundary. 280 "That the Long Lake of Mitchell's map by the Grand Portage was the true boundary as intended by the Treaty of 1 783 I was prepared to substantiate by the written assurance of the venerable John Adams who distinctly remembered the fact. 281 But as no evidence short of the red-line map would satisfy the British Commissioner it was withheld and remains with my boundary papers. Being compelled to assume the northern route, it was fortunately so strongly substantiated by evidence as to be adopted by the American Commissioner." 282 The British Agent had not yet made a definite claim to a more southern route for the boundary line than that by the Grand Portage; but his persistent surveys in the Fond du Lac region rendered it likely that he would soon do so. "If a more southern route is claimed on the part of Great Britain," Delafield had notified the Secretary of State, 279 The map was accessible, and Webster used it to bring the representatives of Massachusetts and Maine to accept the compromises which he and Ashburton had agreed upon: but he did not show it to Ashburton, as it clearly strengthened the British claims. See the later sections on the Webster-Ashburton Treaty. 280 For the particulars of this disputed claim etc., by the American and British Agents, see nth Vol. of Executive Documents, 1837, 1838, No. 451, Washington. 281 An interesting deposition by John Jay, now in the New York Historical Society, bears upon Adams' statement. 282 Joseph Delafield's Mss. Autobiography, p. 9. INTRODUCTION 91 John Quincy Adams, in that same letter of November 17, 1824, 283 "I am prepared on the part of the United States to claim a more northern one, 284 whenever it becomes expedient, for the same reason that they can claim in the south, and with more force and propriety, because it is more direct and continuous than any other except by the Long Lake on Pigeon River. 285 I have foreborn, however, to do so, or to press the argument about Long Lake farther at present than was necessary to reduce the surveys, in fear of giving countenance to the examination of other routes which would lead to almost interminable labor. Besides, the route by Long Lake on Pigeon River is so clearly and irresistibly the course of the line prescribed by the Treaty that I feel compelled in equity and reason to advocate it; and the interests of the United States no less require that it should be sustained without compromise or relinquishment of any sort." In other words, Delafield was all along convinced that the intention of the Commissioners of 1 783 was to start the line at the Pigeon River line; but advanced and elaborated his argument for the Kamanistegua line as a counter-poise to what he considered the unreasonable am- bition of the British Agent in toying with the Fond du Lac, and he submitted many maps 286 to prove his contention. "It is not reasonable," he adds, "to suppose that the slight and un- tenable pretense of doubting the true position of Long Lake would induce the British Commissioner to hazard a disagreement." 287 But in this he was mistaken. The British Commissioner was quite prepared to "hazard a disagreement," and did so, at the cost of failure for the Commission. 288 888 Text: Delafield to Adams, Nov. 17, 1824, Mss. in National Archives. 184 Namely the Kamanistegua route, which he had explored and for which he had gathered evidence. The evidence which Delafield gathered in support of his Kam- anistegua line is printed in House Docs., Vol. 1 1, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., p. 32. 886 Later Delafield wrote that, the evidence which he had so carefully collected in favor of the Pigeon River route being no longer applicable, because the British Com- missioner had turned his attention toward the St. Louis River route, he could without inconsistency urge the new Kamanistegua route. (Memorial presented to the Board in October, 1824. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Fold. 2 and in House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., p. 27 of Doc. No. 451.) 886 House Doc. No. 451. House Docs., Vol. n, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., p. 27. (The maps presented are chiefly of British origin.) 887 Delafield to J. Q. Adams, Nov. 17, 1824, Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I Folder 2. 888 Barclay's Report of October 25, 1827 (Doc. No. 451, House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 40-117) says on p. 77: "the route by the Kamanistegua River has not the Long Lake required. . . . There is no Long Lake upon this route 92 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY The State Department passed into the hands of Henry Clay, on March 7, 1825, an< ^ on November 16, 1825, General Porter wrote to him, 289 explaining why the Commission had not been able to conclude its work. "I trust however," he said, "that the Journal of our proceed- ings, and other official documents, copies of which will have been transmitted to you before the receipt of this, by Mr. Delafield, the American Agent, will satisfy the President that the delay is not im- putable to me, nor to any of the agents constituting the American part of the Commission." He explained, as the reason for the delay, that Barclay, the British Commissioner, had hoped to establish the line "far to the south of the one which was obviously in contemplation of the signers of the Treaty of 1783." With that aim in view, he explained, Barclay had recently made a tour of the northwest, accompanied by a Doctor Tiark, 290 but, "from the informal conversations . . . which I have had with Mr. Barclay and Doctor Tiark, since their return, I ap- prehend no serious difficulty in an amicable adjustment." As the basis of such adjustment, however, the American Agent, and following him the American Commissioner, demanded not the Pigeon River, which they had already offered and seen rejected, but the Kamanistegua route. Delafield, on October 5, 1826, filed his argument with the Board. 291 It says: immediately connected with Lake Superior, as required by the treaties, without con- tracted water communication. In proceeding from Lake Superior, by the Kamanis- tegua River, the entrance is sudden from the Great Lake immediately into the narrow river last named; and that river is to be ascended nearly forty miles ... to the Kaka- bikka or Mountain Falls; thence, about the like distance, to the Dog Portage, which connects the communication with the Dog Lake, after the traveller has been obliged to traverse twelve portages and decharges between that lake and Fort William, near Lake Superior, at the mouth of the Kamanistegua River. This Dog Lake, notwith- standing its remoteness from Lake Superior, has been claimed by the Commissioner of the United States, conformably with the oscillations of the Agent of the same Govern- ment (Major Delafield) as the Long Lake." 289 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 290 Dr. J. L. Tiark, an astronomer for the British Government, who in 1825 se " lected a point as the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods (The In- ternational Boundary Commission, Joint Report upon the survey and demarcation of the boundary from the northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods to Lake Superior, p. 37). He placed it at 49°23'55" (Ibid. p. 107). This was accepted in 1842 by both Governments; and until 1925 it figured in boundary history as the terminus of the line from Lake Superior to the Lake of the Woods (Ibid. p. 107). In 1927 it was changed to 49°5i'35" (Ibid. p. 107). Delafield's expedition fixed it at 49°23 / 48 // (Porter to Clay, October 18, 1826. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1). 291 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope IV, Folder 1. Quoted also by Commissioner Porter's separate report of December 12, INTRODUCTION 93 "The undersigned, the Agent of the United States, has the honor to present the following claims in behalf of his Government, under the seventh article of the Treaty of Ghent. Beginning at the point where the boundary line terminated under the sixth article of the Treaty, he claims that the boundary line be so continued through the river St. Mary's that Isle St. George or Sugar Island be within the limits of the United States. In Lake Superior he respectfully conceives that it is the right of the United States, and he claims accordingly, that the line be drawn from the St. Mary's River to the northward of Isle St. Anne or Gariboef Island, thence northward of Isle Royale; thence northward of the Isles Phelipeaux (by which latter islands he means the Pate 292 of the present map and its adjacent group): thence to the river Kamanistegua, and thence through the middle of the same river to the Long Lake also called the Dog Lake. From the Long Lake on the Kamanistegua he claims that the line be continued through the middle of the river, marked on the accompanying map Dog River, until it arrives at that certain tributary which leads to the 'Gold Water Lake,' and thence through the middle of such tributary to its source in the Height of Land near the 'Cold Water Lake' : thence over the Height of Land and through the middle of the lakes and rivers known and described as the 'Broad' of the French, viz. to the river Savannah; thence through the middle of the river Savannah to Mille Lake: through the middle of Mille Lake and its water communication with Lac Dorade to Lac Dorade: through the middle of Lac Dorade and its water communication with Lake Winebago 293 and its water communication with Sturgeon Lake to Sturgeon Lake: through the middle of Sturgeon Lake and the river Maligne to Lac a la Croix: through the middle of Lac a la Croix and its water communication with Lake Nemecan to Lake Nemecan: through the middle of Lake Nemecan and its water communication with Rainy Lake to Rainy Lake: through the middle of Rainy Lake and Rainy River to the Lake of the Woods, and thence to the most northwest point thereof, which point is in the Bay near Rat Portage, marked on the accompanying map No. 3. To which map the undersigned begs leave to refer for a more particular de- scription of the claims above set forth. And he would also ask (in case the Agent of His Britannic Majesty should differ from the undersigned as to the rights of the United States in these particulars) that the undersigned may be allowed to substantiate his claims by proofs, and by such other considerations as he is prepared to assign. All which is respectfully submitted, New York, October 5, 1826. Jos. Delafield, Agent of the United States." 1827. It appears also in the Journal of October 5, 1826; and is printed in Doc. No. 451, House Docs., Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., 24-31, and is summarized on p. 99. 292 He gives in great detail his reasons for identifying the Isles Phelipeaux with those "marked on the map of this Commission the Pate" (p. 8 et Seq. of the Mss. of October 5, 1826, in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2). It is a brilliant argument, showing much research. 293 These lakes are not marked on the map filed with Major Delafield's papers in 94 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY This argument, masterful in its massing of intricate detail, remark- able in the amount of research which it represents, appears to best advantage when compared with the brief argument presented by Mr. Hale, the British Agent, the same day. Hale contented himself with a page and a half of pleading. 294 In essence it is a curt demand "that the boundary . . . should be continued up the Middle Neebish channel, which offers the most direct communication into Lake Superior, and effects the most impartial division that can be made of the only two islands of any importance in that communication, by assigning Neebish Island to the United States and St. George's Island to Great Britain. "The undersigned," he added, "proceeds to resume the observations which were laid before the Board on the 26th of October, 1824, re- lating to the situation of the 'Long Lake,' and he is confirmed in the assumption that nothing like a Long Lake is to be found between the west end of Isle Royale and the discharge of the river St. Louis, which opening, he therefore contends to be the proper point of departure from Lake Superior for continuing the boundary towards the water com- munication with the Lake of the Woods. He refers to the maps laid down by authorized surveyors for the justice of this pretension, and he lays before the Board the further evidence of two letters from the late Mr. McGillivray, the head of the Northwest Company, which state that no such inlet exists as the Long Lake laid down in the old charts; and that the run of waters upon communication with the river St. Louis is of much greater magnitude than any to be found in other routes to the interior. To the latter circumstance the undersigned attaches the greatest importance because, as in the Treaty of 1 783 the Commissioners adopted as much as possible a water line for the boundary line, it is fair to presume that their intention was to continue such a line to the utmost extent practicable, and in no part of the face of the country does it appear that this view of the subject would be more fully met than by running the boundary line up the river St. Louis." The next day, October 6, 1826, Hale submitted another sheet and a half, in reply to Delafield's argument which he had just read. It was in essence only a protest against "the admission of any printed maps whatever as evidence." Upon the basis of the surveys made by author- ity of the Board, and without any attempt "to follow the Agent of the United States in the very laborious research he has made," he is con- tent merely to repeat his previous claim, "that from the discharge of the National Archives, under November 28, 1823. 294 Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. INTRODUCTION 95 Lake Superior the line should run west of Gariboef Island directly to the north of the Isle Royale (disregarding any supposed island called Phelipeaux as having no existence), and from thence up the river St. Louis, or the carrying places connected therewith, to the most direct communication with the Lake of the Woods, and that the boundary should terminate in this lake at the point laid down as the most north- western by Dr. Tiarks, the astronomer whose observations and charts annexed are now laid before the Board, with a request that they be filed." To this Delafield replied, briefly, on October 7, 1826, 295 urging that the maps to which he had referred, and which the British Agent had attempted to discount, were valid evidence upon the points at issue, and as such could be received or rejected as the Board thought just. "The undersigned," he added, "can neither allow nor forsee the least validity in the objections made" to their consideration by the Board. The report of Dr. Tiarks, however, and the other so-called evidence which the British Agent had submitted, he regarded as without proper authentication, and therefore not evidence. Dr. Tiarks' so-called re- port, he pointed out, was only a "private document and not to be ad- mitted in evidence," as it had manifestly no authenticity. "Dr. Tiarks," he said, "is not known in that capacity (astronomer on the part of His Britannic Majesty) to this Board, nor has he ever been appointed by the Commissioners as astronomer or surveyor." On October 9, 1826, Agent Hale replied, 296 laying down his claims with more precision, "from the river St. Louis to the Lake of the Woods," and presenting an affidavit from assistant surveyor Thompson who "had passed along that boundary in person." As to Delafield's theory of Long Lake he declared himself unable to "imagine that any Commissioners could have been so careless as to describe a boundary in terms so singular as the 'Long Lake,' if other long lakes were, as Delafield's numerous maps showed, before their eyes." He then pointed out that "among the maps collected by the x\gent of the United States (Major Delafield) . . . three . . . bear evident marks of having been struck from the same plate, and two others also appear to have been struck from one and the same plate, with alterations in the titles only." 295 (Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2.) He asks also that he may be permitted to put in hereafter "a more particular description." 298 (Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. Hale submitted a letter from W. McGillivray, dated August 30, 1825, at Quebec, declaring that the waters (of the St. Louis route) "are of much more magni- tude than by any of the other two routes to the interior" (text: in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2). 96 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY But such facts he considered only incidental to the fact that Major Delafield had himself offered proof "that it was Mitchell's map upon which the Treaty was framed." Two days later, October u, 1826, Delafield replied, 297 admitting that there was such a route to the Lake of the Woods "from the St. Louis River" as that which Mr. Hale had described: but, he added, "its existence appears to be the only argument in its favor. A route also has been described by the undersigned by the way of the Peak River, another by the Nipigon. 298 Either of them, by a parity of reasoning, are as truly the intended boundary line as the St. Louis River route. No Long Lake is to be found, nor is any pretended to exist, by the way of the St. Louis, which is a sufficient objection to it. "The Long Lake by the river Kamanistegua has been proved by many maps. 299 The evidence has not been contraverted, but the Agent of His Britannic Majesty, to impair it, has observed, 'that three of the maps bear evident marks of having been struck from the same plate, and two others also appear to have been struck from one and the same plate. . . .' The maps referred to, being upon the same scale, must of course have a great resemblance, if at all accurate, and this general resemblance, in size and outline, is the only foundation for the remark. In detail they differ very materially, and in so many particulars, as not to justify the objection which has been made." But he argued, very convincingly, that if these maps had been merely new editions of earlier maps, it could only have proved that, with the reports of all later ex- plorations before him, the publisher found "his first plate ... as perfect as he knew how to make it; and thence ... it seems to confirm the argument and claims of the undersigned" American Agent. 300 These arguments between the agents advanced the Commission no closer to agreement; and, on October 16, 1826, Porter wrote to Sec- retary Clay: 301 "I regret being obliged to inform you that Mr. Barclay 297 Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 298 Barclay's report, p. 112, says: that the American Agent reserved "the route by the Peak or Nipigon River in behalf of his government should it be thought fit for future discussion, in case of a final disagreement." This threat, as Barclay calls it, probably arose "from his hope of thereby exciting a distrust, on the part of his Majesty's servants under this Commission, in their cause, rather than from any opinion of the reasonableness or admissibility of such a claim." (Doc. No. 451, House Docs., Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., p. 112.) 299 Delafield had filed nine maps to sustain his contentions. 300 Delafield, however, stoutly refused to admit that any of the maps produced by him were from the same plates. 301 Porter to Clay, October 16, 1826. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. "wixtid ivm u.aacou>*Q*L9ui»vty INTRODUCTION 97 and myself, although we have concurred in establishing the greater part of the boundary required to be run by the 7th Article of the Treaty of Ghent, have disagreed as to certain portions of it. This result is as unexpected as it is unpleasant to me. . . . Situated, however, as the business is, the Commissioners have nothing to do but to make a joint report . . . describing and declaring the course of the line as far as we have agreed, and 'stating in detail the points on which we differ.' " 302 This joint report, he said, would be accompanied by "separate reports in which we are required severally to assign the reasons for our re- spective opinions." Porter then declared his hope that, when these reports and arguments should be complete, the British Commissioner would do as he had done, as shown in the "Journal under dates of February and May 1822," in the case of disagreement concerning the line under Article VI, namely agree "upon the whole line of boundary." The basis of that hope was that "when his government shall have ex- amined the documents presented to the Board, only a few days ago, by our Agent, Major Delafield, and read his able and satisfactory ex- position of what he claims to be the true boundary, and contrasted it with the feeble effort of the British Agent to maintain their claim to an important island in the St. Mary's River, and to the route west of Lake Superior by the river St. Louis (which are the two points of difference) they will at once instruct him to agree, substantially if not in toto, to the boundary I have assumed." 303 At the foot of this letter, in Major Delafield's handwriting, are the words: "I entirely concur with the Commissioner in the views taken by him in the preceding letter, and at his request, subscribe to the same." Two days later, on October 18, 1826, Porter informed Secretary of State, Clay, 304 that, at the recent meeting of the Board, "Mr. Barclay, as I anticipated . . . proposed that, after entering on our Journal a detailed description of those parts of the boundary on which we had agreed, and specifying our points of difference, as to the residue, we should suspend the exchange and transmission of the separate reports which we are required, in case of difference, to make to the respective governments, preparatory to a reference to some friendly sovereign, a sufficient length of time to enable him to communicate with his govern- ment, in the hope that His Majesty's Ministers would instruct him to 302 The subquotes appear in the Mss. but there is no indication of the source of the quotation. 303 In the Mss. in the National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 304 Porter to Clay, October 18, 1826. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 98 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY accede — not to the line which I have assumed — but to another line 305 somewhat more favorable to his government, but still far to the north of the one assumed by him, and which I had tendered to him, in the course of our discussions, in the shape of a compromise. . . . This is precisely the course which the business took on closing our deliberations under the sixth article . . . and it eventuated in an agreement." 306 But His Majesty's Ministers failed to accede. Relations between America and England were again strained, as a British order in Council had forbidden American trade with West India ports, 307 and British authorities were building canals intended to facilitate British competi- tion in the growing trade on the lakes. It was even rumored that, in order to make England mistress of this lake trade, canals were being projected to serve as military highways. The Erie Canal had served to turn an increased amount of this northwest trade into New York City, as it carried the waters of the lakes into the Atlantic Ocean by an arti- ficial conduit, which had placed England at a disadvantage. But the mutual suspicions proved insufficient either to cause abandonment of the disarmament policy or seriously to interfere with the progress of the boundary contest, which soon proceeded, toward what Delafield and Porter hoped would be a compromise. But compromise was never reached. Each side held stubbornly to its demands, until the breaking point came. On October 28, 1826, Delafield thought it wise to give the Secretary of State, Henry Clay, a very definite statement showing where the differences lay: 308 "New York, October 28, 1826 Hon. Henry Clay, Secretary of State Sir: It was my intention to have deferred addressing you upon the subject of the boundary line until the Board now sitting had adjourned, when a copy of its * 05 That is not the Kamanistegua route, which Delafield discovered, but the Pigeon River route which both Commissioners had at first considered the one plainly intended by the Commissioners of 1783. 806 In this same letter Porter refers to the "President's assent to the proposition made by Mr. Barclay's letter to me ... by direction of his government to run a meridian line from the northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods to the parallel of 49 °, and place a monument at the point of intersection." He says that the two Commissioners have agreed as to all the western part of the line and have placed a monument at the northwest point of the Lake of the Woods, 49 23' 48" as they had fixed it. 307 Callahan's Neutrality of the American Lakes, p. 88. 808 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. INTRODUCTION 99 proceedings and decisions as entered on the Journal, together with the dis- cussions, might also be transmitted. The American Commissioner having apprised you of the present state of his negotiations with his colleague, and believing that you would prefer to be possessed with the means of ascertaining the extent and importance of the questions and differences that have occured without delay (at least in their general import), I have the honor to enclose for this purpose two maps upon a reduced scale comprising the territory in dispute. The smaller map is of that portion of the St. Mary's River between lakes Huron and Superior, which embraces Isle St. George, an island claimed in behalf of the respective governments. The claim of the United States is founded upon the facts, that the only navigable channel is on the Canadian side of the island, and that the island or its greater proportion, is on the American side of 'the middle of the river', in any sense of that expression. The British claim has no other foundation than their strong desire to possess it. The island is about sixteen miles in length, is two miles below Fort Brady, and of value for its soil and timber, but more especially because it binds the channel to the St. Mary's Falls. Our claim to it has been sustained by ample evidence, and, I am gratified to add, however desirable amicable decisions are, that the Ameri- can Commissioner has rather made this island a point of disagreement than cede it to the British. In my humble opinion, the British claim to this island is not consistent with the principles which have governed former decisions. It is in opposition to the rules of decision heretofore advocated on the part of His Britannic Majesty under the 6th article of the Treaty, and so feebly sustained that I cannot doubt but that the right of the United States will be ultimately acceded to. The larger map embraces all the disputable country beyond Lake Superior and is reduced from our actual surveys. 309 It exemplifies the three routes of rivers and lakes leading toward the Lake of the Woods. The most southern one by the river St. Louis has been claimed by the Agent of Great Britain. The most northern one by the Kamanistegua River in behalf of the United States. The middle one by the Pigeon River has become the subject of a compromise but without success. The St. Louis River route has been sustained by the British Agent, upon no better pretense than their claim to Isle St. George. To sustain the claim of the United States to the northern route I have had the good fortune to produce various maps, some dated previous to the Treaty of Peace of 1783, others in 1783, and others in subsequent years, all having the Long Lake laid down on the Kamanistegua. The Treaty prescribes the line to run northward of 'Isle Royale and the Phelipeaux to Long Lake,' and by reference to the map you will perceive that, having arrived to the northward of these islands, the boundary must fairly and reasonably continue to the Kaman- istegua and its Long Lake. 309 -phis m ap, still preserved in the National Archives (filed with Delafield's letter to Clay, of Oct. 28, 1826, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2), is much too large to reproduce: but a glance at it makes clear the complicated matters involved in this part of the dispute. ioo THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY It is not, however, my present purpose to enter more fully into this subject than to explain the enclosed maps as illustrating the claims of the respective Agents, and the points of disagreement between the Commissioners. The American Commissioner, to effect an immediate adjustment of the line, would have consented to adopt the middle route; 310 and it is this route which in candor I must admit has been always heretofore considered to be the line of division between the two governments. This overture to compromise was met by an offer of the British Commissioner to approach very near this route, but instead of following the continuous waters, he proposed to pass by land over all the carrying places. To this course there are such serious objec- tions, bearing equally upon the conveniences of both governments, besides the deviation from the Treaty description, that the proposition could only have been made with the certainty of its rejection. By this middle route it will be seen that there are two chains of lakes and rivers diverging occasionally and again uniting. It is the northern one which is the most direct and continuous, and the one intended as the Compromise by the American Commissioner. The adoption of this route would no doubt better advance the interests of the United States than to leave the boundary undetermined. But, as the question now stands, and, upon the evidence now before the Board, it appears to me to be almost certain that the British Commissioner will be instructed rather to adopt the compromise than to bring the extreme claims of the respective agents into competition. Should it prove otherwise, it does not become me to say more than that the American Commissioner has decided to abide by the claim which it has been my duty to advance, and to advocate in behalf of the United States, and that I am perfectly satisfied of its validity, and its preference according to the evidence before the Commissioners. In the course of a few days, it will be in my power to send a copy of the Journal, together with a copy of the discussions between the agents, and the evidence to the Board, which will explain very fully the merits of the questions at issue, and the extent of the boundary established. I have the honor to be with the greatest respect Your most obedient servant Jos. Delafield" Just five days after this unequivocal declaration by Delafield that he was convinced by the evidence which he had gathered that the Kam- anistegua route fulfilled the conditions of the Treaty of 1783 better than any other, and that he had so convinced the American Com- missioner, Porter wrote to Clay, 311 adopting Delafield's Kamanistegua route as his own. "Major Delafield" he said, "has furnished you with a map and observations which will explain to you our points of differ- 810 That is Pigeon River. 311 Porter to Clay, Nov. 2, 1826. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. INTRODUCTION 101 ence (with Great Britain). I claim for the United States the route by the Caminestiguia (Kamanistegua) on the waters of which is unques- tionably situated the true 'Long Lake.' But in as much as Mitchell's Map, which was before the Commissioners at the time of making the Treaty of 1 783, places Long Lake in and identifies it with the small bay or inlet at the mouth of Pigeon River near the Grand Portage, I offered, by way of compromise, to enter that bay and river, and proceed up it through the most continuous waters to Lake Nemican. Mr. Barclay, after claiming the river St. Louis as his line, offered, as a compromise, to take the Grand Portage route, which commences a little to the south of Pigeon River, and proceeds to Lake Nemican, partly through the Pigeon River and partly overland to the south of it. Finding, I presume, that this proposition does not comport well with the Treaty which re- quires us to follow the water communication, he now offers to enter the Pigeon River and proceed to Lake Nemican by a water communica- tion, somewhat to the south of the one proposed, by way of compromise, by me. . . ." Apparently, Delafield felt that one of these two routes would soon be agreed upon, for, on November 4, 1826, he wrote to Clay, 312 ex- pressing the hope that "the entire boundary 7 line will yet be traced upon the remainder of the maps, in conformity (as I may add) with . . . just and impartial views." But this proved an unsound prophecy. Each side continued to insist that its extreme claims were "just and impartial," and no compromise was effected. On November 15, 1826, Delafield fulfilled his promise of October 8, 1826, 313 by sending Clay a "copy of the Journal of the proceedings of the Board at its late meeting held in New York beginning October 4, 1826." 314 It thus declared disagreement in the Board over certain sec- 312 Delafield to Clay, November 4, 1826. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 313 Delafield to Clay, New York, Nov. 15, 1826, enclosing copy of proceedings of October 4, 1826. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. The report of the International Boundary Commission, Vol. IV, p. 25 says: "The work of reestablishing the boundary ... as provided for under the Treaties of 1 908 and 1925, includes the determination of the location of the line as adopted under the Treaty of 1842, and as shown on the maps prepared in 1822, 1823, and 1824 . . . under Article VII of the Treaty of Ghent, 1814. . . . Although these maps were inaccurate, they were, in general, the sole means of determining the position of the boundary line as agreed to under the Treaty of 1842. Other than the maps, no records or notes of the original survey of the boundary waterways could be found, except the Journal of the Commissioners (British and Foreign State Papers, LVII p. 803), in which the loca- tion of parts of the line was described relative to certain islands." The present Diary is among the most important of the missing records referred to. 814 Text: Mss. Ibid. 102 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY tions of the boundary: "Resolved (Monday, October 23, 1826) that the Commissioners disagree as to the course which the boundary line should pursue, from the termination thereof under the 6th Article of the Treaty of Ghent, at a point in the Neebish channel near Muddy Lake, to an- other point in the middle of St. Mary's River, about one mile above St. George's or Sugar Island." The British Commissioner, continued the resolution, is of the opinion that the line should run "into the ship channel between St. Joseph's Island and St. Tammany's (Neebish) Island to the division of the channel at or near the head of St. Joseph's Island, thence between St. George's Island and St. Tammany's Island, turning westwardly through the middle of the Middle Neebish, pro- ceeding up to and through the Sugar Rapids, between the American main shore and the said St. George's Island, so as to appropriate the said island to His Britannic Majesty." The American Agent, it added, is of the opinion "that the line should be conducted from the before mentioned terminating point . . . into and along the ship channel between St. Joseph's and St. Tammany's Islands to the division of the channels at or near the head of St. Joseph's Island (concurring thus far with the British Commissioner) ; thence turning eastwardly and north- wardly around the lower end of St. George's or Sugar Island and following the middle of the channel which divides St. George's Island first from St. Joseph's Island and afterwards from the main British shore to the before mentioned point in the middle of St. Mary's River about one mile above St. George's or Sugar Island so as to appropriate the said island to the United States." Here then was a clear-cut issue, the aim of each side being to ap- propriate St. George's or Sugar Island. The resolution then describes the line agreed upon, beyond the head of St. George's Island, an agreement the nature of which is indicated upon the series of maps (still preserved in the National Archives) , by red shading on the British side and blue shading on the American side. It starts from the "point in the middle of St. Mary's River about one mile above the head of St. George's or Sugar Island," and runs thence westwardly through the middle of the said river, passing between the group of islands and the rocks which lie on the north side and those which lie on the south side of the Sault de St. Marie as exhibited on the maps; thence through the middle of the said river between points Iroquois and Gros Cap which are situated on opposite main shores at the head of the river St. Mary's and at the entrance of Lake Superior; thence in a straight line through Lake Superior, passing a little to the south of Isle Cariboef to a point in said lake one hundred yards to the north and east of a small island named on the map Chapeau and lying opposite and near to the northeastern point of Isle Royale. INTRODUCTION 103 At that point the lines, red for the British and blue for the American, where agreement had been reached, again become controversial. "The Commissioners," declares the proceedings of October 23, 1826, "dis- agree as to the course of the boundary from the point last mentioned in Lake Superior to another point designated on the maps at the foot of the Oliandiere Fall in Lac la Pluie," the American Commissioner sustaining the Kamanistegua River and Dog Lake route, which Dela- field had established to his complete satisfaction; while the British Commissioner still insisted upon the Fond du Lac and St. Louis River route, far to the south. 316 Thus matters stood, each side hoping for some concession on the part of the other, and each hoping in vain. Both sides, however, still desired to carry out another project, namely "to trace the 49th parallel as far west as the Red River," 316 desirable no doubt, but not within the terms of reference of the Com- mission, and therefore needing special permission from both govern- ments, a permission which, in view of complaints concerning expenses already expressed in both capitols, was by no means certain to be given. The President readily gave his consent: and the delay in hearing from England mattered little as the Commission agreed that the project was too ambitious for their resources. The same proved true concerning the line in the Lake of the Woods. Delafield later explained, "the northwest corner of the Lake of the Woods, was too important to be imperfectly determined; our materials are too imperfect to enable us to decide so important a line as this parallel, the effect of which would be to determine our northern boundary for a long and almost indefinite extent." And he added, "It turned out . . . that the northwest corner of the Lake of the Woods was in latitude 49 23' and 48" and that a meridian drawn from that south would intersect the 49th parallel at a point very near the middle of the Lake of the Woods, and distant from any shore." The Commission therefore contented itself with taking a few observa- tions for latitude on the south and east shores of the lake. Mr. Barclay suggested that, "if the object should be deemed of sufficient importance, to send our two astronomers again to the Lake of the Woods to as- certain, and erect a monument on, the 49th parallel, at the west shore 315 This route is described in great detail in the Journal under October 23, 1826, pp. 10-14. "For a better general understanding of the routes respectively assumed by the Commissioners in this case of disagreement," adds the Journal, "reference may be had to a reduced map on the files of the Commission marked 'a general map of the country northwest of Lake Superior.' " The fullest details are in the series of maps still with it in the National Archives, map section. 316 Porter to Clay, October 30, 1827. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 104 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY of the Lake of the Woods, it would be, practically, still more important to ascertain and fix another at the Red River about 80 miles to the west, where collisions respecting territory will be much more likely to occur" . . . "as the lands in that vicinity are valuable, and as it appears from Major Long's observations (taken probably in haste and with imperfect instruments) that the 49th parallel passes through, or a little to the north of the town and principal settlements formed by the late Earl of Selkirk. These two points being fixed, the whole northern line of boundary would be so plainly indicated, as probably to render any further proceedings by the two governments in respect to it unneces- sary " 317 All doubt concerning Great Britain's willingness to take part in the proposed Red River project was put to rest by a letter from Barclay to Delafield, dated Savannah, April 3, 1827, which said: "I am di- rected by His Majesty's Government, under the existing state of things, to relinquish all further operations upon the boundary, beyond that portion of it which is embraced by the 7th Article of the Treaty of Ghent." 318 Ten days later, Delafield thus conveyed this information to the Secretary of State: "New York, April 13, 1827 Hon. Henry Clay Secretary of State Sir: General Porter having requested Mr. Barclay to communicate to me with- out delay the purport of such instruction as might be furnished him from England concerning the proposed expedition to the Lake of the Woods and the Red River, I have this morning received from him a letter, dated Savannah, April 3rd, an extract from which I have the honor to subjoin. With the greatest respect Your most obedient servant Jos. Delafield" Meanwhile, the Commission had waited impatiently to learn the British Government's decision upon Barclay's request for instructions upon the question of yielding to America's claims under the Seventh, as he had been instructed to yield under the Sixth Article of the Treaty of Ghent. As there was little that the Board could do until this informa- 817 Porter to Clay, Oct. 18, 1826. Text: National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1. 318 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. INTRODUCTION 105 tion arrived, the Board meeting scheduled for March 1, 1827 was omitted, as Delafield had explained to the Secretary of State, 319 "in consequence of the British Commissioner not yet having received the expected instructions from his government . . . which only could pro- duce any decisive results. . . . There is reason to believe," he added, "that by this time, (March 22, 1827) he will have received instructions, as the packet by which he expected them has arrived." About two weeks later, on April 6, 1827, he had written again to Clay 320 that the British Commissioner had received the expected instructions, "relative to the unsettled business of boundary commission, and to the proposed observations for latitude in the northwest" (at the Lake of the Woods and the Red River). He explained that as yet Barclay had not seen fit to reveal the contents of the instructions, which probably were "not calculated to produce an agreement upon the questions in dispute under the 7th article of the Treaty." Delafield added, "He, (Barclay) made a casual remark that it was Canning's wish to refer the subject to a friendly power." It was evidently not the British intention to yield to the American claims and Barclay had convinced Delafield that Canning cherished an "unwillingness that these differences should be adjusted by this Commission." Delafield warned Clay that two or three weeks might elapse before General Porter learned from his colleague, (Mr. Barclay) the more precise nature of his instructions. Clearly there remained little chance of agreement concerning the disputed sections of the line, and Barclay's instructions when they came showed no signs of concession upon the part of the British Government, no inclination to recede from what Delafield described as "untenable claims." 321 Clay knew, as Delafield knew, that America would never accept those claims, and therefore there remained nothing for Dela- field but to prepare for the Commission the documents needed for its final deliberations, including the minutes of the Board. This he did at once, with meticulous care, setting in order also the account of ex- penses, which totaled $93,3 16.31, for the Americans, and ^23,391, and 6% shillings, Halifax currency, for the British, from October 29, 181 7 to October 25, 1827. 322 819 Delafield to Clay, March 22, 1827. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 820 Text: Mss. in National Archives. Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 321 Delafield to Clay, September 22, 1827. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 328 These accounts show "joint expenses of the Commission under the 6th and 7th Articles of the Treaty of Ghent;" British jf 23,39 1.6K, American $93,316.31. See Dela- 106 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY In the meantime Commissioner Barclay became more and more indignant as he realized that the American Commissioner, Porter, not only rejected the Fond du Lac route, but accepted Delafield's Kamanis- tegua route. On October 25, 1827, ne complained to the Board 323 that, "After the intimation heretofore made, that the American Agent had presented a formal claim to the Board in 1824, calling upon the Commissioners to fix upon Pigeon River as the Long Lake, it would be difficult to comprehend how the Dog Lake should now be claimed as the Long Lake by the same gentleman, and by the Commissioner in behalf of the United States also, without a sketch of the proceedings in relation to these subjects. To this irksome task the undersigned must submit." He then quotes Major Delafield's memorial to the Commissioners, of October 25, 1824, in which he had declared "the place called Long Lake to be the mouth of Pigeon River (as now called), near the Old Grand Portage." Barclay then frankly admitted, "the facts designed to be proved by these documents, (which Delafield had assembled) 324 . . . have never been denied. But the inference then desired by the American Agent (Delafield), that Mitchell's Map was therefore true, conclusive, and obligatory upon the Commissioners, was never ad- mitted by the undersigned, nor would the Agent of the United States, (Delafield) wish to admit it. 325 It remains for the Commissioner of the United States (Porter) to show how the inconsistency manifested by the American Agent (Delafield) ... is to be excused." That "inconsistency" Barclay then attempts to exhibit, confessing field's Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. They are signed by Porter and Barclay, Donald Fraser and Richard Wil- liams, Sec. and Assistant Sec. and are certified "True Copy— Jos. Delafield." 323 His report of Oct. 25, 1827. Text: Doc. No. 451, House Docs., Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess. 324 Collection is reprinted in Appx. H., to Doc. No. 451, House Docs., Vol. n, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 124-125. 325 This is true. Delafield's Autobiography, written in later years, declares that the "difference should not have occurred, nor would it, if the missing Red-Line Map . . . could have been produced." This clearly means that Delafield held throughout that the proper line was through the Pigeon River. "Mr. Webster," he adds, "for some rea- son conceded a land route on the American side of the Long Lake by the Grand Portage, instead of adhering strictly to the water line of the treaty." It is quite evident^ from the voluminous papers of Major Delafield that he intended his Kamanistegua route as a strategic reply to Great Britain's unjustifiable Fond du Lac route: but that he always believed the proper route had been marked on Mitchell's Map by the Commissioners of 1783. His evidence, including the testimony of John Adams, was strong but, without the Red-Line Map it was not strong enough to force the British to abandon their St. Louis-Fond du Lac pretensions. His arguments therefore, explain his Autobiography, were "withheld and remain with my boundary papers." INTRODUCTION 107 himself unable to say "whether the Commissioner . . . (Porter) pre- ceeded or followed his Agent (Delafield)," although, with the informa- tion from Major Delafield's Diary in our possession, we know that Delafield led and Porter followed his lead. Barclay says that he opposed Delafield's (Porter's) position at the Board meeting by expressing his opinion that "the true Long Lake was to be found at the St. Louis River. . . . Whereupon, the Agent (Delafield) remarked that 'in such case he would abandon the claim made in the said memorial, and ad- vance a claim to the Kamanistegua River as a boundary.' " This threat, adds Barclay, "was intended to induce me to give up the claim to the St. Louis River and was actually carried into execution at the meeting of the board in October, 1826. The object," he adds, ". . . . must be palpable. . . . Porter advances this larger claim that he may effect a liberal compromise by conceding half." 326 It was Barclay's opinion that such a change on the part of the American Commission was "incon- sistent in itself, inconsistent with the practice of all constituted courts and formal boards of appeal, and inconsistent with principle." And he urged that "this gross departure from consistency in the American Agent (and he here places the blame squarely upon Major Delafield), ought not to be allowed, but that the Government of the United States should be precluded by his first claim from making any other upon that subject, whereby, if the claim of Great Britain to the Long Lake of the St. Louis be not satisfactorily established, . . . the only authorized route for the boundary line would be the Pigeon River." 327 Unfortun- ately for Barclay's own consistency, he had himself done exactly what 826 Doc. No. 451, House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., p. 78. In this criticism Barclay was fully justified, as Delafield later acknowledged in his Autobiography (Mss. now in the possession of Brig. Gen. John Ross Delafield, Montgomery Place, Barrytown-on-Hudson, New York), p. 8, which says: "I now felt it incumbent to make an offset to the British claim by the Fond du Lac route and devoted my time to this object," collecting arguments in favor of the Kamanistegua route. 327 Barclay's reasoning here is sound. The St. Louis route was not "satisfactorily established," and in the end, the Pigeon River route was the boundary. By the Webster- Ashburton Treaty of 1842, which settled unsettled boundary questions, it was pro- vided, in Art. II that the boundary should run, "through the middle of the sound between Isle Royale and the northwestern mainland, to the mouth of Pigeon River, and up said river, to and through the north and south Fowl Lakes, to the lakes of the height of land (between Lake Superior and the Lake of the Woods) ; thence, along the water communication to Lake Saisaginaga, and through that lake; thence, to and through Cypress Lake, Lac du Bois Blanc, Lac la Croix, Little Vermellia Lake, and Lake Nimecan, and through the several smaller lakes, straits, or streams connecting the lakes here mentioned, to that point in Lac la Pluie, or Rainy Lake, at the Chaudiere Falls, from which the Commissioners traced the line to the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods." (Senate Docs., Vol. 47, 61st Cong., 2d Sess., p. 652.) 108 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY he blames on Delafield; for, having once argued in favor of a Pigeon River Route, he had resorted to the Fond du Lac route, and was still intent upon establishing that. Barclay argued his positive case for the St. Louis River skilfully and with logic, but the case itself was not sound. "It is," he said, "not only the most direct, but also the most continuous water communication, and the oldest route to the Lake of the Woods . . . the very course in- tended by the negotiators of the Treaty of 1783." 328 The fact that it had a "far less number of portages" than the routes farther north was eloquently pleaded in defense of the Fond du Lac route. Barclay even paints a picture of what a portage meant: "The canoes generally used on the waters northwest of Lake Superior . . . are about 28 or 30 feet in length, four and a half feet wide, and two feet deep. They are navigable by six canoemen (there called 'voyageurs'), are adapted to convey two persons, in addition, with three thousand weight of stores, goods, and baggage. This amount is divided into pieces (technically called) weighing each about ninety pounds, to facilitate the carriage of them across the portages. These pieces . . . are to be transported over the portages, from water to water, two at a time, upon the backs and shoulders of the men, in which manner the canoe also is to be carried. . . . Many of these portages are mountainous, most of them very rocky and rough, some are both; from which causes the labor and accidents to luggage, canoes, and men, are very much increased. Some of the portages require several days. . . . During these delays, and the consequent separation of stores, baggage, and proprietors, frequent losses are sustained by the depredations not only of the natives, but also of the voyageurs themselves, whose consciences become corrupted by scanty allowances, there rendered necessary. Before the long portages are completed, frequently some of the men are taken sick. . . . These are exposures which ought to be diminished in number as much as possible. . . ." Like Delafield, Barclay produced maps to sustain his argument; 329 but they seem to prove only that the river St. Louis had been known since Charlevoix's time as "the Lake, or St. Louis River." The inference which he draws, that this proves it the Long Lake of the treaties is a non sequitur. He confidently eliminates the route through the Kam- anistegua River and Dog Lake, because "all lie entirely to the north of the northern most part of Isle Royale," while the river mentioned in the treaties must discharge south of Isle Royale. Therefore, as only the Pigeon and the St. Louis rivers so discharge, the choice must be be- tween them alone: and upon "five fold grounds," plus the opinions of the best-informed persons, he confidently declares for the St. Louis River 328 Doc. No. 451, House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., p. 83. 329 List. Doc. No. 451, House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 84-85. INTRODUCTION 109 as the one intended by the Commissioners of 1783. Barclay also declares and with more reason that any claim for the Kamanistegua route is debarred by "the want of a survey thereof." 330 Indeed, he argues from this want, that "the American officers of the Commission never en- tertained a serious hope or intention of fixing the boundary in that route." This was of course true only in the event of Great Britain's abandonment of its Fond du Lac pretensions. Clearly, from the first discovery of the Kamanistegua route, Delafield had intended to press its claims only if Barclay pressed his Fond du Lac claim. Now that that contingency had arrived, he felt free to meet Fond du Lac with Kam- anistegua, and able to defend his case. And Commissioner Porter was quite ready to make his stand upon Delafield's arguments. The Board meeting 331 before which Barclay's attack upon Delafield had been made found no way of adjusting the conflicting claims; and, after a wearisome presentation and discussion of accounts, it was agreed, on October 27, 1827, that the Commissioners should exchange their respective reports in the City of New York, on December 24, 1827. "It appearing that there remains no further need for the continuance of this Board," says the final entry in the Journal, October 27, 1827, "the Commissioners declare it to be adjourned sine die." 332 Three days later, October 30, 1827 Commissioner Porter informed the Secretary of State 333 that the negotiations had apparently reached an impasse. "I have been disappointed," he said, "in the expectation . . . that the British Government would instruct its Commissioner to relinquish his claim to St. George's Island," which he described as "the principal point in our present disagreement. ... If this were adjusted," he added, "I apprehended no serious difficulty in reconcil- ing our other differences, which were of minor importance." The British refusal of the compromises which he had suggested, Porter, not too generously, attributed to a British desire to upset the boundaries already established under article six, to which indignant objections had been raised in Canada: but it seems more likely that Barclay's aim in- cluded the larger objective, to annex to Canada the potentially im- portant area north of the St. Louis River. But, whatever the motives hidden or revealed, Delafield dealt only with facts when he wrote to 830 Doc. No. 451, House Docs, Vol. II, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., p. 87. 831 The minutes of the final deliberations of October 22, October 27, 1827, appear in the Journal. Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. It contains also a list of the maps submitted to the Board under Art. VII. 338 The copy of these proceedings in the National Archives bears the certification "True Copy— Jos. Delafield." 833 Porter to Clay, New York, October 30, 1827 (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1). no THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Clay, on November 6, 1827: 334 "the business of the Commission is brought back to the same position in which it was at the meeting in October, 1826 335 and the whole subject has been concluded in conform- ity with the views of the respective Commissioners as recorded at the meeting and heretofore transmitted. The boundary line under the seventh article of the Treaty therefore is agreed to and determined through the St. Mary's River from the head of St. George or Sugar Island to Lake Superior; through Lake Superior to the northward of Isle Royale, and in the interior through Rainy Lake, Rainy River, and the Lake of the Woods, including its most northwestern point. "The disagreements are as to St. George or Sugar Island, in the St. Mary's River, and the water communication from Lake Superior to the Rainy Lake. The merits of these two questions remain as at the previous meeting, no new evidence or arguments having been advanced on the part of the British, and none were deemed necessary on ours. The respective Commissioners have agreed to exchange their separate and final reports on the 24th day of December next (1827), when I have no manner of doubt it will appear, that the claims I have had the honor to prepare and advocate will be amply sustained and justified, and those of the British agent be shown to be extravagant and un- supported. "At the same time 'duplicates of their respective reports, declarations, statements and decisions and of their accounts and of the Journal of all the proceedings' will be delivered to me as directed in the Treaty, which together with a very extensive series of maps of actual surveys, including those which have the boundary line (so far as it is determined) marked upon them, I shall, as soon thereafter as practicable, present to you at the Department of State. . . ." The reports were not exchanged on December 24, 1827, however, and Delafield, on December 26, wrote to Clay to explain the reasons. 336 Porter's report had reached him too late, and Barclay had left but one copy of his, and that was too voluminous to be transcribed in time. "It will require," said, Delafield ". . . twelve or fourteen days to copy it." It was therefore February 26, 1828, when Delafield dispatched to 334 Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2. 335 Joseph Delafield's argument, filed October 6, 1826 (text: House Docs., Vol. II, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 24-31. Mss. in the National Archives) furnished the basis for the report of his chief, General Porter, the American Commissioner, dated "Black Rock, December 12, 1827" (text: House Docs. Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 3-24. Mss. In National Archives). 336 Delafield to Clay, December 26, 1827 (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope III, Folder 1. It is dated December 24, 1827). INTRODUCTION in Clay, by the hand of his brother, William, "the separate report of the American Commissioner together with that of the British Commissioner under the Seventh Article of the Treaty of Ghent." 337 These separate reports of the two Commissioners make each a con- siderable volume, 338 too considerable to be summarized here. But no detailed summary is needed, as each side stuck stubbornly to the position already indicated. A brief comparison of their arguments, however, will serve to make clearer the exact points of difference, and Major Delafield's controlling part in determining the American claims in- sisted upon by General Porter. Porter points out the fact that the Commission's duty had been to establish a definite line dividing America from Canada. He expressed satisfaction that agreement had been reached under the Sixth Article, but regretted that the Commission had failed to agree upon a complete line under the Seventh Article. The disagreement, he explained, con- cerned only two sections, first: the American Commissioner insisted that St. George's or Sugar Island, in the water communication be- tween Lakes Huron and Superior, should be left on the American, 339 and the British Commissioner equally insisted that it should be on the 887 Delafield to Clay, New York, Feb. 26, 1827 (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2). The maps, thirty four in number, he decided to carry himself to Washington at a later date. Delafield to Daniel Brent, March 31, 1828 (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2). The separate reports of the Commissioners, in the original manuscript are in the National Archives, Idem, Envelope III, Folders 838 Porter's Report is dated "Black Rock, State of New York, October 12, 1827" and bears the title "Separate Report of the American Commissioner under the Seventh Article of the Treaty of Ghent, December 24, 1827." It contains 46 closely written pages, and sixteen pages of "extracts from the argument of the agent of the United States (Joseph Delafield Esquire), setting forth so much thereof as refers to the Boundary Line from Lake Superior to the Rainy Lake, and more especially to his claim in behalf of the United States to the Long Lake on the River Kamanistegua. Filed Oct. 6, 1826, and referred to in the foregoing report." This extract is signed "Jos. Delafield, Agent of the United States, etc." Both Mss. are in the National Arch- ives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope III, Folders 1 and 2. It contains also appendices, pp. 67-79, with outline maps. Anthony Barclay's Report is dated "New York, October 25, 1827," and bears the title page: "Report of the British Commissioner Respecting the Boundary Line under the 7th art. of the Treaty of Ghent." It contains 190 closely written pages, appendices, A-S., with many outline maps. It is signed "Anthony Barclay." (Text: Ibid.) 339 It was later, in Art. II of Webster-Ashburton Treaty, confirmed to America, Art. II declaring that the line should run "up the east Neebish channel, nearest to St. George's Island . . . into St. Mary's River, to a point in the middle of that river, about one mile above St. George's or Sugar Island, so as to appropriate and assign the said island to the United States." lis THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY British side of the line. Secondly; they disagreed as to the course of the boundary from Lake Superior to the Chaudiere Falls, in Lac la Pluie, which lies between Lake Superior and the Lake of the Woods. The American Commissioner insisted that the line should pass from Lake Superior into the Kamanistegua River, and up that river, by the most continuous chain of water, to Chaudiere Falls. 340 The British Com- missioner, with equal determination, held that from Lake Superior the line should enter the mouth of the river St. Louis, and proceed up that river, by the most continuous water communication, to the same Chaudiere Falls, beyond which the two Commissioners had reached agreement. The disagreement over Long Lake and the course of the boundary from Lake Superior to Chaudiere Falls, in Lac la Pluie, was more com- plicated than that over St. George's Island; for some of the geographical landmarks upon which the Commissioners of 1783 had counted, had proved untrustworthy. Those Commissioners had assumed, from such evidence as was then available, that Isle Royale, Isles Phelipeaux and Long Lake were as represented upon their maps: but, by the time Dela- field's and Hale's surveyors had reached the region, and started their preliminary inspections, two of these, namely Isles Phelipeaux and Long Lake had ceased to be known by those names. Their identity and location, so vital to their problem of carrying out the terms of the Treaty of 1 783, were therefore matters of conjecture. Porter and Bar- clay agreed that the line must pass to the northward of Isle Royale, for the treaty so provided: but the American Commissioner held, as Dela- field had argued, that the Isles Phelipeaux were a cluster of islands named Pat6, between Isle Royale and the mainland, and that the line was meant to pass to the northward of them also. 341 In this the British Commissioner could not concur. "The next object," says Barclay's report, 342 "was to ascertain the 840 This line, as General Porter explains in his report of December 12, 1827 (House Docs. 1 ith vol. 25th Cong., 2d Sess., Doc. 451, p. 4) is minutely described in the Jour- nal of the Commission, under date of 23d of October 1826. The Chaudiere Falls are in L« la Pluie (Ibid. p. 4). 841 They agreed that Isle Royale was an island in Lake Superior, near its north- western coast, as marked upon the maps of the Commission. They agreed that the boundary line must pass to the northwest of it ^Ibid. p. 20). But Barclay thought that theM fictitknil illandl had been created by "the deceptive appearance of certain lands, resembUng islands, in the direction assigned to the Isles Phelipeaux by Mitchell's map," Of by Indian fables (Barclay's Report, Doc. No. 451, House Docs., Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 26 Sett., p. 72). Porter, following Delafield's views, id end tied these islands with a group actual!) existing and known as Pat6. 841 Doc. 451, House Doc*., Vol 1 1, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 72-73. SECTION OF A LARGE REVOLUTIONARY MAP OF THE UNITED STATES, NOW IN THE NATIONAL ARCHIVES AT WASHINGTON. THE KAMANISTEGUA RIVER, THE ST. LOUIS RIVER ARE CLEARLY SHOWN. THE DELAFIELD TRIANGLE FORMED BY THE ST. LOUIS RIVER, THE OSWALD LINE AND THE LAKE SUPERIOR IS ALSO VERY CLEARLY SHOWN. INTRODUCTION 113 Long Lake. On this point . . . both the American and British parties at first looked at Mitchell's map 343 for information. . . . Long Lake was found to be placed near the mouth of Pigeon River, on the northwestern shore of Lake Superior. . . . There is no lake whatever, much less a long lake, between Lake Superior and Pigeon River. That river empties into a small bay of Lake Superior, but such a bay as has no claim to be called a lake. . . . "At the meeting of the Commissioners, held in Montreal on the 25th day of October 1824, the Agent of the United States (Joseph Delafield) presented a memorial, in behalf of his Government, praying the Board to proceed forthwith to determine what was meant by the Long Lake; and submitted documents, and an argument, to show that the said lake is the place now known as the Pigeon River. "At this time the Commissioner of the United States appeared in accord in opinion with the agent of his government. The undersigned (Barclay) declined, however, to proceed to the settlement of that point separately, before the whole line of boundary was surveyed, and ready for adjudication; whereupon the consideration of the question was post- poned. "At a subsequent day it became convenient for the Agent of the United States, as will be made to appear hereafter, to abandon this claim, and to urge a route 40 miles farther north, by the Kamanistegua River, 344 as the water communication from Lake Superior, through the Long Lake, to the Lake of the Woods; in which claim, also, he was sup- ported by the American Commissioner." If these facts leave any doubts in the mind of the reader of these two reports that Joseph Delafield was the real author of the American case, the following words of Commissioner Porter should dissolve it: "It was the intention of the undersigned to have gone into a full and minute 343 Barclay's report says: "Mitchell's map has no pretension to any authority . . . it is very defective, and extremely erroneous in numerous particulars; . . . among other errors, it has a group of three islands, . . . placed to the southeast of Isle Royale, and one of them nearly as large as the last-named island; ... no such islands have been discovered, nor have any such been found by his Majesty's naval surveyors, who have been engaged there for several years immediately previous to 1825. . . ." Doc. No. 451, House Docs., Vol. 11, 25th Gong., 2d Sess., p. 72. 344 In his Mss. autobiography Joseph Delafield explains that after reaching the Lake of the Woods, in 1823, he had "returned to Lake Superior by the new route . . . known as the Dog River or Kamanistegua route, Mr. Whistler sketching as we returned as good a topographical map of the route as our rapid voyage permitted. I now felt it incumbent to make an offset to the British claim by the Fond du Lac route and de- voted my time to this object. The question to be determined was what was meant by the Long Lake of the Treaty of 1 783." ii4 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY examination of the maps and other evidence on the files of the Commis- sion, for the purpose of showing that the route by the Kamanistegua is, and that the other by the river St. Louis is not, the true boundary of the Treaty of 1 783. But this task has been so ably and successfully performed by the Agent of the United States, Mr. Delafield, in an argument or exposition, (which with its accompanying documents, were presented to the Board during its deliberations on this subject, and which form part of the regular exhibits to be laid before the umpire by whom the differences are ultimately to be settled) that he has deemed it most ad- visable merely to append to this report a copious extract from the argu- ment of the Agent, and to refer, as he now does, to that argument and its accompanying proofs for the grounds of the opinions he has above expressed in regard to the course of the boundary. . . ," 345 Barclay, as conscious as was Porter that Delafield had made the American case, and the arguments that sustained it, insisted upon ad- dressing himself more to Delafield, the Agent, than to Porter, the Com- missioner. "It is humbly yet confidently hoped," he said, in one para- graph, "that, should all the other arguments be set aside, the versatility of the American Agent (Joseph Delafield) with whom the American Commissioner went pari passu in vacillation, will here be checked; and that his repeated formal claim to the Pigeon River as a boundary, sup- ported by a file of evidence, and the proposition of the Commissioner of the United States to compromise for that river, will be required to be accomplished, ... if the St. Louis River be not accepted." These words indicate a disposition on the part of the British Commissioner to revert to what had once been the common view, namely that the Com- missioners of 1783 meant that the line should start at the Pigeon River; but he made no suggestion for dropping his extreme claim to the St. Louis River as the starting point for the line. From what has been al- ready quoted it is evident that Delafield and Porter had been willing to accept a line through Pigeon River, before the British began urging their extreme southern route by Fond du Lac and the St. Louis River. But both now felt that Barclay's aim was that which Wm. McGillivray had suggested to Barclay's Agent, Hale, in the words: "If the route by the river St. Louis, or Fond du Lac, could be established as the bound- ary, it would be gaining a great extent of country." 346 It seems certain, and justifiable, that Porter's firm adoption of Delafield's Kamanistegua route was his method of defeating this ambitious desire of Barclay to 846 The argument of the Agent and the other documents above referred to appear in House Documents, Vol. II, 25th Gong., 2d Sess., Doc. 451, pp. 24-31, and 32. 346 McGillivray to Hale, Montreal, September 4, 1828. Text: House Docs., Vol. II, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., Doc. 451, pp. 34-36. INTRODUCTION 115 extend British territory at the expense of America. Porter could not deny Barclay's statement, that "no express order was ever given by the Commissioners for the survey of this route by the Kamanistegua River and Dog Lake; and if any actual survey was ever made of it . . . the same was only by the surveyors appointed on the part of the United States. . . ." 347 But the same was true of the Fond du Lac route, which Barclay was still defending as "the most direct and continuous water communication. ' ' It was quite natural and proper that Porter should give to Delafield the credit of having made the American case; for the State Department and Congress had designated that as part of the Agent's responsibilities. But it is remarkable that the British Commissioner, Barclay, in his separate report, should have chosen to direct his arguments at Major Delafield instead of the American Commissioner. Yet, the last twenty- four pages of his report are aimed exclusively at Major Delafield. At times scornful, at times sarcastic, at times very bitter in his remarks about the American Agent's work and claims, Barclay dismisses them as "the mere assertion of the Agent of the United States." He claims confidence "that neither all nor any of these extravagant propositions (of Major Delafield) . . . will be allowed by any umpire to whom these differences may be referred," 348 a statement later proved false by the Webster-Ashburton decision, as will later appear. So far as Major Delafield's active work was concerned, it had ended, with the Commission, on October 27, 1827. He had traced the bound- ary, by careful surveys made under his personal direction, from St. Regis to the Lake of the Woods, and had reached agreement with the British in all save two sections. But the effects of his work continued, by virtue of the fact that Amer- ica accepted most of his views as her own; and later most of them were confirmed in the Webster-Ashburton Treaty. 349 To make clear how definitely the nation later stood upon Delafield's 347 Barclay, after long and tedious argument, concludes that "the Kamanistegua River is a new route, opened since the year 1801; that it is longer, more dangerous, and more laborious, than the route by the great carrying place and the Pigeon River." (Doc. No. 451, House Docs., Vol. 11, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., p. 82). He contended that if the Commission really sought "the most direct and continuous water communication," the St. Louis River was best: and next best the Grand Portage and Pigeon River route. 348 House Docs., Vol. n, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., Doc. No. 451, p. 102. 349 No joint survey of the course of the boundary from the northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods to the mouth of Pigeon River, or the reverse, was made after that made under the direction of the Commission under Art. VII of the Treaty of Ghent until plans for its more definite demarcation were agreed upon in the Treaty of 1908. Joint Report upon the Survey and Demarcation of the Boundary, etc. Vol. IV, p. 7. u6 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY arguments, it is necessary, at this point, to revert to what has been designated as Section I, the St. Croix - St. Regis part of the Canadian boundary, and show, in brief outline, how Webster and Ashburton received their Commission, and how they discharged it in such a way as to give final effect to most of Delafield's contentions. The files of the State Department, now established in the National Archives Building, contain a letter which graphically sums up the situation in January 1823, so far as the Maine boundary was concerned. It was written to John Quincy Adams, then Secretary of State, by Moses Greenleaf, 350 author of a map of Maine which England considered an authoritative map, as it was published in 181 5 "under the patronage of the Legislature of Massachusetts." In this letter Greenleaf speaks of "a line traced on the northern frontier as the supposed boundary." "I was informed, sometime since," he added, "that, in the discussions between the United States and British Commissioners on the subject of this part of the boundary, the British Commissioner drew from the line exhibited on this map an argument that the Commonwealth of Massachusetts . . . had, by the implied if not express sanction of its Legislature to such a map, virtually relinquished all claims to the 48th degree of latitude as the northwest angle of Nova Scotia and northeast boundary of Maine, and, having thus relinquished that point, could not contend for any other short of the highlands which divide the waters of the Penobscot and St. John." Greenleaf then explains why he had not spoken of this point earlier, and adds, "having now learned that the subject of the boundary is yet expected to be settled by further nego- tiation or compromise, and presuming that a new negotiation will of course bring up all former arguments ... I have felt it a duty to lose no time in communicating to you what is within my knowledge respecting the exhibition of the line in question on the map as a boundary, and the degree of sanction given it by the Legislature of Massachusetts. . . . "In preparing the map, I had ... no definite authority for determin- ing the precise situation of the northern boundary, but must necessarily be left to a collation of such maps as I could procure, to designate a line somewhat probable. . . The authorities on which I relied were a map of Canada by Vondewelden and Charland and a manuscript of the late Governor Sullivan, of Massachusetts. ... I did not think it proper absolutely to exhibit that or any other line as the actual boundary contemplated by the Treaty (of 1783), but directed the publisher to leave the whole northeastern extremity open, tracing, however, a very 350 Greenleaf to John Quincy Adams, Williamsburg, Maine, 29 Jan. 1823. Text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope IV, Folder 2. INTRODUCTION 117 faint line (not to be colored as was the rest of the outline) to indicate that somewhere in that direction the highlands would probably be found, and also to indicate that the probable boundary in that place was not yet ascertained. . . . Nothing ever took place to my knowledge which could imply the sanction of the Legislature to the correctness of the map. The only questions were whether the map was as good as any which could be obtained without farther and very extensive surveys; whether it was sufficiently full and accurate for present purposes, and sufficiently valuable to justify the Legislature in patronizing its publica- tion. . . . Whatever implied abandonment of claim, it was the act of an unauthorized individual, not that of the Legislature." From this statement, as from many others which might be quoted, it is evident that as late as January 29, 1823, no one knew what the boundaries of Maine actually were, although the questions had been under dispute for almost half a century. Clearly the time for a definite settlement had arrived: but the statesmen competent to settle the ques- tions involved had not taken command. For the remainder of the twen- ties, therefore, discussions continued, leading no whither: and, during Palmerston's long service as Foreign Secretary, 351 they continued without settlements following discussion. At times, instead of furnish- ing the information necessary to settlements, statesmen deliberately concealed it. Lieutenant Colonel R. E. Mills says, for example, that Palmerston, in the heat of this discussion, "had the King's map re- moved from the British Museum to the Foreign Office in order to prevent the Americans getting hold of it." 352 At times the conflicts became menacing: and in 1838- 1839, Maine and New Brunswick came near to war. 353 In February, 1839, a party of lumberjacks from Canada entered the disputed Aroostook region, where they were soon confronted by American lumberjacks. A serious incident seemed likely when both Maine and New Brunswick called out militia, and Congress authorized the President to enroll 50,000 volun- teers for defense. Fortunately, President Van Buren set his face against war, 354 and sent General Winfield Scott to patch up a peace. By March, 361 1 830- 1 834 and 1 835- 1 84 1. 352 Lieut. Col. Dudley A. Mills' British Diplomacy and Canada, p. 609. 353 The so-called Aroostook War was a series of border incidents over the right to cut timber and build roads. It never reached the status of war. 354 On July 2, 1838, John Forsyth, Secretary of State, wrote President Van Buren, sending "copies of the separate reports of the two Commissioners . . . stating, in detail the points on which they have differed, and the grounds upon which their respective opinions have been formed; being all the information on the subject" of the Canadian Boundary, as requested by a resolution of the House of Representatives in a resolution of May 28, 1838. Text of that resolution, 25th Cong., 2d Sess., House Docs., Vol. II, n8 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY 1 839, Scott had succeeded, but both England and America realized that there must be something more than patching, if peace was to endure along the borders. And this conviction became stronger, in November, 1 840, when the arrest in New York State of Alexander McLeod upon charge of murder and arson while engaged in participation in the Caroline raid again roused the war spirit. 355 Downing Street protested that the "pirates" on the Caroline had been attacked by a regular mili- tary expedition and that the charge of murder could not be made against them, even if it was granted that McLeod had been one of them. Palmerston, the Foreign Secretary, therefore "demanded" McLeod's immediate release: but the State of New York held him and Washing- ton could not comply with the demand. New York insisted upon her right to bring him to trial: and Palmerston warned the British Minister at Washington that McLeod's execution would produce war. Web- ster, Secretary of State, expressed the alarming view that "if a mob should kill him, war would be inevitable in ten days." 356 Fortunately, McLeod was neither convicted nor mobbed. He stood his trial at Utica, proved that he had not been present at the raid, and on October 12, 1841, was declared by the jury "not guilty", after 20 minutes absence from the court room. 357 Such incidents, however, emphasized the imperative need of a com- plete and final settlement of the Canadian- American boundary line; and fortunately, at this moment, September 1841, the fiery Palmerston was succeeded in the Foreign Office by Lord Aberdeen, who had been Foreign Secretary in Wellington's Cabinet 358 and was temperamentally a man of peace and conciliation. He appointed Lord Ashburton, whose marriage to a Philadelphia lady had thrown him much with Americans, a special envoy to adjust matters between Canada and the United States. Fortunately the strange political situation which the succession No. 451. pp. 1-132, with maps. On July 3, 1838, these documents were "read and laid upon the table." The first item is the "Report of the American Commissioner, dated Black Rock, State of New York, December 12, 1827, signed by Peter B. Porter, and witnessed by Donald Frazer, Secretary to the Commission. Attached is an extract from the argument of the Agent of the United States (Joseph Delafield, Esq.) setting forth "so much thereof as refers to the boundary line from Lake Superior to the Rainy Lake, and more especially to his claim, in behalf of the United States, to the Long Lake on the river Kamanistegua filed October 6, 1826, and referred to in the foregoing report." 355 "The Case of Alexander McLeod," in the Canadian Historical Review, XII (I930> PP- 165-167. 356 Quoted, by Thos. A. Bailey, in Diplomatic History of the American People, p. 216. 357 Quoted from Watt's Alexander McLeod, p. 1 59, by Thos. A. Bailey, in A Dip- lomatic History of the American People, p. 216. 368 Mills' British Diplomacy in Canada, p. 689. INTRODUCTION 119 of the Vice President, Tyler, to the Presidency had caused, left Daniel Webster still Secretary of State, 359 and Ashburton was met by a mind as conciliatory as his own. The two had met while Webster was visit- ing England in 1839, and it was soon evident that at last the old con- troversies over doubtful boundaries were to be settled by reason, which, as both statesmen realized, always offers a kind of adjustment which war can never effect. To both minds reason demanded an abandon- ment of the old attempts to agree upon an interpretation of the mass of documents which years of contest had piled up, and to attempt a com- promise line which neither would have chosen but which each could accept as the best possible solution of dangerous differences. As a result they left few official documents to puzzle the historian, their discus- sions being chiefly friendly chats. Webster, conscious of the difficulties which Maine, formerly part of Massachusetts, would be likely to make to any settlement surrendering any part of her claims to the northward, and conscious that Massachu- setts, his own state, would support her, quietly showed to the leaders of these two states a copy of the Red-Line Map which Sparks had found in Paris 360 and of Steuben's copy of the Mitchell Map, which confirmed its testimony to the soundness of the British claims concerning northern Maine. He made clear to them his own view, that America would gain more by compromising than by pressing claims which these maps did not sustain; and at the same time tried to explain to Ashburton why the Federal Government could not act until Maine and Massachusetts 369 Sydney Smith, world famous for his caustic wit, which he delighted to turn upon the United States, once described Webster as "a living lie, because no man on earth could be so great as he looked." Quoted by Thos. A. Bailey, in A Diplomatic History of the American People, p. 219. 360 When the Sparks Map became known in England, Webster was accused of having been guilty of underhand methods as the map seemed to confirm the British claims in Maine: but Webster's action was generously defended by Ashburton who argued that Webster was right not to present doubtful evidence which would certainly have in- jured his country's case (Bailey's Diplomatic History of the American People, p. 226). Palmerston later attacked Webster's "duplicity" in showing the maps to the Maine and Massachusetts representatives but not making them known in England: but he was himself later accused of similar duplicity, upon the ground that he learned of a British map better authenticated than the Sparks Map and favoring the U.S.A. as early as 1839; and had, for his own reasons, kept that knowledge to himself (Hunter Miller's Treaties and other International Acts of the U. S. A., Washington, 1934, IV, pp. 409-410). Ashburton, at the last moment, had been shown both the Sparks Map and the Steuben Red-Line Map, both emphasizing the strength of the British claims: but he made no attempt to reopen the conflict, content to have the dangerous matter settled as had already been agreed, and doubtless confident that he had got as much as his country could hope to gain peacefully. Lieut. Col. Dudley A. Mills' British Diplomacy in Canada, p. 694. i2o THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY were satisfied. His Lordship protested that he could not see why Eng- land should be asked to wait while the United States persuaded two of its member states to do as she wished them to do. Accustomed as he was to sovereign governments, he could not comprehend the prob- lems of a strictly limited government. But he waited, though impa- tiently, until, by dint of successive proposals, including a payment of 8150,000 to each of the obstructing states, Webster had persuaded Maine and Massachusetts to consent to the compromise line agreed upon by the two negotiators. 361 As a result a treaty was signed on August 9, 1842, 362 and eleven days later, on August 20, 1842, the Senate approved. In England it was attacked; but accepted on October 5, 1842. While the Maine boundary was the most immediate concern of Webster and Ashburton, they agreed also to settlements of the points which the Joint Commission under the Seventh Article of the Treaty of Ghent had left in dispute. They decided that St. George's Island was American property, and confirmed the line which Delafield and Porter had insisted upon. These words from the Second Article of the Webster- Ashburton Treaty — The Treaty of Washington — finally settled that dispute: "from the place the joint Commissioners terminated their labors under the Sixth Article of the Treaty of Ghent, to wit, at a point in the Neebish channel, near Muddy Lake, the line shall be run into and along the ship channel between Saint Joseph and St. Tammany's Islands, to the division of the channel at or near the head of St. Joseph's Island; thence, turning eastwardly and northwardly around the lower end of St. George's or Sugar Island, and following the middle of the channel which divides St. George's from St. Joseph's Island; thence up the East Neebish channel, nearest to St. George's Island, through the middle of Lake George; thence, west of Jonas' Island, into St. Mary's River, to a point in the middle of that river, about one mile above St. George's or Sugar Island, so as to appropriate and assign the said island to the United States; 363 thence, adopting the line traced on the maps by the Commissioners, through the river St. Mary's and Lake Superior, to a point north of Isle Royale, in said lake, one hundred yards to the north and east of Isle Chapeaux, which last-mentioned 361 Ashburton was not allowed to see the Sparks Map until he had signed the Treaty. "If the secret had been known to me earlier," he wrote on Feb. 7, 1843. Quoted Mills' British Diplomacy and Canada, p. 703, "I could not have signed." 362 Full details, Hunter Miller's Treaties and other International Acts, IV, pp. 363-477. Text of the Treaty of Washington in Senate Docs., Vol. 47, 61st. Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 650-656. 363 Thj s was t h e fi na i answer to Barclay's prediction that no arbiter would assign the island of St. George to America. INTRODUCTION 121 island lies near the northeastern point of Isle Royale where the line marked by the Commissioners (under Article VII) terminates. . . ." The same Article II settled the Long Lake dispute by rejecting the Fond du Lac route which Barclay had so ardently championed, and es- tablishing the Pigeon River route which each side had favored and then abandoned. Joseph Delafield, in his Autobiography, 364 while recognizing this as almost what he had at first claimed in this region, calls attention to the fact that Webster's line passed a little south of it. "This difference," it says, "should not have occurred, nor would it, if the missing Red-Line Map of 1783 could have been produced. It has since been discovered in the private library of George III and I have reason to believe a copy . . . was in the possession of one of the American Commissioners, but inaccessible when wanted. 365 Mr. Webster, for some reason, con- ceded the land route on the American side of the Long Lake, by the Grand Portage, instead of adhering strictly to water line of the treaty. It is true the water line is impracticable in this as in other cases of falls and rapids, and that the concession is not material. Nevertheless, as a concession it is reasonable to conclude that he derived an ample equiva- lent in the adjustment of the more important and long disputed north- eastern boundary. 366 That the Long Lake of Mitchell's map, by the Grand Portage, was the true boundary as intended by the Treaty of 1 783, I was prepared to substantiate by the written assurance of the venerable John Adams who distinctly remembered the fact. But, as no evidence short of the Red-Line Map would satisfy the British Commis- sioners, it was withheld and remains with my boundary papers." It is significant that, during the negotiation of this Webster- Ashburton Treaty, Lord Ashburton showed no disposition to insist upon the St. Louis River, which the British Commissioner, Barclay, had so persist- ently demanded, but was content with Pigeon River, a compromise between Kamanistegua and the Fond du Lac, and a compromise which Delafield and Porter had offered and which Barclay had refused. 367 364 Mss. in hands of Brig. Gen. John Ross Delafield, Montgomery Place, Barrytown- on-Hudson, New York. 365 Col. Dudley A. Mills, in his British Diplomacy in Canada, p. 609, says: "Palmer- ston . . . had the King's map (which had been placed in the British Museum in 1823) removed ... to the Foreign Office in order to prevent the Americans getting hold of it . . . Neither Peel, nor Aberdeen, nor Ashburton knew of its existence till 1843." 366 For the particulars of the disputed claims etc., by the American and British Agents, see Vol. 11 of Executive Docs., 1837, 1838, No. 451. 367 Art. II of the Webster- Ashburton Treaty thus defines the line running from the northeastern point of Isle Royale: "from the last-mentioned point, southwesterly, through the middle of the sound between Isle Royale and the northwestern mainland, 122 THE UxN FORTIFIED BOUNDARY The most important questions settled by this Webster-Ashburton Treaty, because the most potential of conflict, were regarding the claims of Maine and Massachusetts, which are outside the areas covered by Major Delafield's Diary. Lieutenant Colonel Dudley A. Mills, R. E. summarizes the results as follows: "(i) Great Britain got from Maine and Massachusetts 5,000 square miles; much of it worthless economically, but required for strategic reasons. (2) Maine and Massachusetts got from Great Britain: a. Forty square miles along the 45th parallel admitted to belong to Great Britain but occupied by Americans, and containing a position at Rouse's Point supposed to be of some strategic value. b. Resignation of doubtful claims to 40 square miles at the head of Connecticut River and to an island of about the same area in the channel between Lake Huron and Lake Superior. c. Resignation of a nominal claim to about 6,000 square miles west of Lake Superior which had already been practically abandoned in previous negotiations. d. Certain rights of navigation on the river St. John, which were valu- able to Maine but not a real equivalent in bargain, because the use of these rights by Maine lumberers was expected by both parties to benefit New Brunswick as much as Maine." "Of all the charges against British Diplomacy in relation to Canada," writes Mills, 368 "the most strenuous and the most persistent has been based on the Ashburton Treaty of 1842. 'Losing by neglect' is the charge on which British statesmen have been arraigned. 'Attempted theft' was their real crime." In view of our present knowledge, this seems far too strong an in- dictment. Indeed, any "indictment" would be too strong to be applied to a settlement by reason which in the long run benefitted both nations, and incidentally all nations; for it helped to move the world a little nearer to the point where reason shall become the basis of all inter- national intercourse. England had perhaps been the victor in the Maine boundary contest; but what she had yielded in the west may be to the mouth of Pigeon River, and up the said river, to and through the north and south Fowl Lakes, to the lakes of the height of land between Lake Superior and the Lake of the Woods; thence, along the water communication to Lake Saisaginaga, and through that lake; thence, to and through Cypress Lake, and Lac du Bois Blanc, Lac la Croix, Little Vermillion Lake, and Lake Namecan and through several smaller lakes, straits, or streams, connecting the lakes here mentioned, to that point in Lac la Pluie, or Rainy Lake, at the Chaudiere Falls, from which the Commissioners traced the line to the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods." 368 Mills' British Diplomacy and Canada, p. 684. INTRODUCTION 123 considered fairly to balance the account. But for both countries the balance was a credit balance; for each had yielded to reason. III. LAKE OF THE WOODS TO THE ROCKIES Major Delafield's field operations as Agent under the VII Article of the Treaty of Ghent ended when he had fixed the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods at 49 23 / 48 // . 369 Webster and Ashburton actually designated the line running south from that most northwestern point, which they altered to 49 23 , 55 // . 370 Their treaty reads: "thence . . . due south to its intersection with the 49th parallel of north lati- tude, 371 and along that parallel to the Rocky Mountains." 372 To follow a parallel would appear easy: but even this definition was not sufficient to avoid dangerous uncertainties. It was, though defined, in need of determination. 373 In April, 1870, President Grant reported to Congress the discovery, recently made, that the commonly received boundary line near Pembina, North Dakota, was about forty seven hundred feet south of the true position of the 49th parallel, and that the line, if correctly run, would leave the Hudson Bay Company's Station at Pembina within the territory of the United States. "It (the line) should now be marked," he said, 374 "from the Lake of the Woods to the summit of the Rocky Mountains." Shortly, in compliance with his recommendation, Congress appropriated $50,ooo 375 for the survey. 369 Porter wrote Clay, on October 18, 1826 (text: National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1), that the two Commissioners have agreed and have placed a monument at the northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods, 49 23' 48". 870 The Ashburton Treaty, Art. II gives it as 49 23' 55" north. 371 On Oct. 18, 1826, Porter wrote to Clay (text: National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 1), referring to the President's assent to the proposition made by Mr. Barclay's letter to me "by direction of his government, to run a meridian line from the northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods to the parallel of 49 ° and place a monument at the point of intersection." He says that they have placed a monument at the northwest point of the Lake of the Woods, 49 23' 48 " as they had fixed it. 372 Treaty of Washington, Art. II. 373 The Treaty of 1908, Art. VI, provides that the line from the northwesternmost point of the Lake of the Woods to the summit of the Rocky Mountains was to have "the curvature of a parallel of 49 ° north latitude." (Text: Joint Report upon the Survey and Demarcation of the Boundary, etc., International Boundary Commission, 1931, p. 7)- 374 Message of December 5, 1870, 41st Cong., 3d Sess. 375 Text of the Act, Campbell and Twining, Reports upon the survey . . . Washington Government Printing Office, 1878, p. 19. This volume, of 624 pages contains the docu- i2 4 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY At the time of the approval of this act, March 19, 1872, 376 as Secretary Hamilton Fish reminded the President when submitting the report, 377 "the boundary between the United States and Great Britain had been surveyed and adjusted from the Atlanticjto the northwestern angle of the Lake of the Woods. The line," he added, has "likewise been surveyed and adjusted from the summit of the Rocky Mountains to the Georgian Bay/' leaving undetermined only "the line between the northwest angle of the Lake of the Woods and the summit of the Rocky Mountains, the water boundary upon the Pacific Ocean provided for by article I of the Treaty of 1846, 378 and the line between the portion of the terri- tory ceded by Russia to the United States under the Treaty of 1867 and the possessions of Great Britain." The part thus undetermined after 89 years seems astonishingly large, but most of it had been defined, though so vaguely as not to insure that those dwelling near the line could be certain whether they lived upon British or American soil. What was needed was a line of perfect definiteness, and this the Commission gave, but without the promptness 379 that should perhaps have been shown. Various circumstances, 380 unnecessary to enumerate, delayed the work, and it was February 23, 1877, when President Grant informed the House of Representatives in a message, 381 that the work was completed, ments relating to the work and is very comprehensive. Cit. p. 19. 376 The survey was provided for by Act of March 19, 1872, "an act authorizing the survey and marking of the boundary between the territory of the United States and the possessions of Great Britain, from the Lake of the Woods to the summit of the Rocky Mountains." The President was authorized to cooperate with the Government of Great Britain in the appointment of a joint commission for determining such boundary line between these points. The text of this Act of March 19, 1872, is given on p. 19 of the Report of the Commissioner, in Campbell and Twining, Reports upon the Survey . . . etc. 377 Fish to Grant, Dept. of State, Feb. 23, 1877. Text in Campbell and Twining, Reports upon the Survey . . . etc. Washington Government Printing Office, 1878, PP- 5-7- 378 "Under Article XXXIV of the Treaty of Washington," Secretary Fish wrote to President Grant, on February 23, 1877 (text: Campbell and Twining. Reports upon the survey . . . authorized by an act of Congress approved March 19, 1872, pp. 5-7), "the question as to what was the proper water-line through the channel which separates Vancouver's Island from the continent, was submitted to the arbitration of the Emperor of Germany, pursuant to whose award and the protocol of March 10, 1873, such a line was ultimately fixed and determined." 379 The final records and maps were signed in London on May 29, 1876. Campbell and Twining, p. 6. 380 One was the inadequacy of the appropriation of 850,000 when General Hum- phreys had estimated on Si 00,000. 381 Text: Senate Ex. Doc. No. 41, 44th Cong., 2d Sess. It is quoted on p. 5 of Camp- bell and Twining, Report upon the survey of the Boundary . . . from the Lake of the Woods to the summit of the Rocky Mountains. INTRODUCTION 125 and laid before it the detailed reports of the Commission. "These re- ports," he said, "announce the completion of the labors of this Com- mission, whereby the entire boundary line between the United States and the possessions of Great Britain is marked and determined, except as to that part of the territory of the United States which was ceded by Russia under the Treaty of 1867." 382 Although this Russian cession and its at times dangerous boundary disputes are remote from the Diary which is being introduced, and have no definite relationship to Major Delafield's work, a few words should perhaps be devoted to them, in order to complete the story of American-Canadian boundary controversies. Only four years after the signing of the Convention of 1 8 1 8, and the Rush-Bagot Agreement for disarmament on the lakes, the Emperor of Russia, by a royal edict of February 1822, declared the region between Bering Straits and the parallel 51 exclusively Russian, a claim which the United States was by no means willing to accept. On March 30, 1822, Mr. Adams, as Secretary of State, protested the claim but the Russian Minister, Chevalier Pierre de Politica, refused to discuss what his Emperor had asserted. Therefore, President Monroe, in his message to Congress in December, 1822, suggested the idea of actively occupying Oregon. Any such drastic move was prevented, however, first by the failure of Congress to have such a course carried out, and secondly by Politica's successor, Baron de Tuyl, who suggested negotiation. This wise proposal was accepted, but Adams warned de Tuyl that America, north as well as south, was closed to the colonization of any European powers, thus establishing one of the principles for Monroe's subsequent message of December 1823 which announced what later became known as the Monroe Doctrine. England, joint occupier with America, of the region in dispute with Russia, suggested joint negotiation with Russia: but Monroe and Adams chose to act independently and, through Henry Middleton, Minister to St. Petersburgh, effected a compromise with Russia, signed in April, 1824, by which the line 54 40' was established as the boundary between the United States and Russia's American possessions. This ruled Russia out of the vast region south of 54 40', and left it to be divided between 382 This was true, for the Treaty of 1846 had already denned the boundaries west of the Rocky Mountains. But that treaty too had left behind disagreements upon points, disagreements which were peacefully settled, however, by reference of differences to the Emperor of Germany who acted as arbiter, and gave, on October 21, 1872, a decision which both England and America accepted as final and conclusive. It was therefore correct to say, as General Grant said on February 23, 1877, that the long conflict was over; the Canadian boundary defined. 126 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY England and America when their agreement for joint occupancy should come to an end. In 1826, Canning sought to discover with Rush and Gallatin a formula which both nations would accept, and to terminate joint occupancy; but he failed, and Adams wrote to Gallatin, as to the cause of the failure: "If the same inflexible disposition which you have found prevailing upon the subject of colonial trade, and of which indications so distinct have been given upon the boundary question and the naviga- tion of the St. Lawrence, should continue unabated, our last resource must be to agree upon the renewal for ten years of the Convention of 181 8. " 383 Before the expiration of the joint occupation agreement, it was so extended by means of two conventions, a formal treaty 384 and a commercial convention. 385 IV THE ROCKIES TO THE PACIFIC At the time of this extension, the Oregon region was scarcely an occupied country, and its value to either nation was regarded as doubtful. But by 1841 immigrants were rushing into it in such numbers that a bill was presented to Congress authorizing the erection of forts along the trails generally followed. England was at once alarmed, and Palmerston announced in the House of Commons that the building of such forts "would be a declaration of war." 386 Fortunately Congress refused to pass the bill which by 1842 was only a memory. Webster and Ashburton, in negotiating the Treaty of 1842, wisely declined to attempt to settle the Oregon dispute: but, after that treaty had removed the causes of conflict east of the Rockies, frequent at- tempts at compromise were made by each country. Neither was, how- ever, willing to yield enough to satisfy the other. Then came the frenzied Presidential Campaign of 1844, m which the Democratic Convention blatantly coupled Texas, which they were determined to annex, and 383 John Quincy Adams to Albert Gallatin, March 20, 1827. Mss., unpublished, Gallatin Papers, New York Historical Society, III. 384 The treaty was concluded August 6, 1827; ratification advised by the Senate February 5, 1828; ratified by the President February 21, 1828; ratifications exchanged April 2, 1828; proclaimed May 15, 1828. Text: Senate Docs., Vol. 47, 61st Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 643-644. It is signed by Albert Gallatin Minister to England, Charles Grant, of the Privy Council and Henry Unwin Addington Esq. 385 The Commercial Convention was concluded August 6, 1824; ratification ad- vised by the Senate January 9, 1828; ratified by the President January 12, 1828; ratifications exchanged April 2, 1828; proclaimed May 15, 1828. Text: Senate Docs. Vol. 47, 6 1 st Cong., 2d Sess. pp. 645-646, signed by Albert Gallatin, Minister to Great Britian, Charles Grant, of the Privy Council, and Henry Unwin Addington Esq. 386 Quoted, Thomas A. Bailey, Diplomatic History of the American People, 231. INTRODUCTION 127 Oregon up to 54 40', which they proclaimed themselves ready to fight for. They carried the election, and James K. Polk, in his inaugural address of March 4, 1845, bound by the echoes of his campaign, de- clared America's title to the country of Oregon clear and unquestion- able, a statement which few intelligent Americans, speaking without political motives, would have been willing to support. Three times already, during the long contest, the United States had offered to com- promise upon the 49th parallel, thus virtually admitting the British claims north of that line: but England had insisted that the Columbia River was as great a compromise line as she could accept. In the end, however, she did consent to the 49th parallel, a wise and conciliatory move, and costing little, as was then thought, for on December 21, 1845, Ashburton told Rush, that in his opinion "the dispute on the shores of the Pacific is comparatively of little value to either country, and danger can alone result from the manner and tone of controversy. ... I am . . . of the opinion that this new country when formally opened to European settlement will not long be governed from either Washington or West- minster. It will and should take care of itself and may become a great distinct people." 387 While the Treaty of 1 846 which secured this settlement was in process of negotiation, Andrew Jackson declared, "Texas the key to our future safety," and added, with characteristic orthography, "We cannot bear that Great Britain have a Ganedy on our west as he has on the north." 388 But the spirit of compromise prevailed over such fears, if the word "fear" may properly be connected with Jackson, and the Treaty passed into law. 389 Its first article thus defines the boundaries: "From the point of the forty-ninth parallel of north latitude, where the boundary laid down in the existing treaties and conventions between the United States and Great Britain terminates, the line of boundary . . . shall be continued westward along the said forty-ninth parallel ... to the middle of 387 Text of original in New York Historical Society, Album on p. 66. 388 Quoted, Marquis James, Andrew Jackson, p. 482. 389 Treaty Establishing Boundary West of the Rocky Mountains; concluded June 15, 1846; ratification advised by the Senate, June 18, 1846; ratified by the President, June 19, 1846; ratifications exchanged July 17, 1846; proclaimed, August 5, 1846. Text: Senate Docs. Vol. 47, 61st Cong., 2d Sess., pp. 656-658, signed by James Buchanan and Richard Packenham. The Treaty of 1908, in Article VII, provided for making more definite the marking of the boundary line from the Rockies to the Gulf of Georgia as defined in Article I of the Treaty of June 15, 1846 (text: Joint Report upon the Survey and Demarcation of the Boundary between the United States and Canada; International Boundary Commission, Vol. IV, p. 8). In Article VIII it also provides for the more accurate marking of the international boundary line from the 49th parallel, along the middle 128 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY the channel which separates the continent from Vancouver's Island; and thence southerly through the middle of the said channel, and of Fuca's Straits, to the Pacific Ocean. Provided, however, that the navigation of the whole of the said channel and straits, south of the forty-ninth parallel . . . remain free and open to both parties." This with the exception of the San Juan Island controversy and other minor disagreements, ended a contest of ninety-four years, 390 which had at times seriously threatened to merge into a senseless war: and it showed that, despite all the bluster of Americans and the quiet determ- ination of the English, reason was to be allowed to rule instead of force being called upon to ruin the two nations. "A century of peace and three thousand miles of undefended fron- tier," is a record of which British and Americans alike are justly proud. By narrow margins, sometimes very narrow, we have escaped war on the one hand, and fortification on the other. Investigation and adjudication have here been shown to be more effective than wars have been else- where in settling boundary disputes, economic disputes, disputes over fishing rights, navigation and power development, and, most difficult of all, disputes over responsibility for injuries to life and property which claimed sovereign protection. "Vital interests," "national interests," "national honor," "racial pride," "religious prejudices"; these and many more have been involved in the long struggle along the three thousand miles of frontier, unsettled at first, then sparsely occupied, then peopled by large and determined populations. Throughout, there has been neither weakness, fear nor indifference: but the dominating motif has been a belief in the methods of reason rather than faith in the of the channel which separates Vancouver Island from the mainland and the middle of the Haro Channel and the Fuca Strait to the Pacific, as defined in Article I of the Treaty of June 15, 1846, and as determined by the award made on October 21, 1872, by the Emperor of Germany as arbiter. Text: Joint Report upon the Survey and De- marcation of the Boundary between the United States and Canada. International Boundary Commission, Vol. IV, p. 9. 390 1 783-1877. This did not mean, of course, that the boundary was now settled for all time. Indeed, it has been found necessary to resurvey and remark it all. For ex- ample, the boundary through the St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes was reestab- lished by the International Waterways Commission under the special provisions of Article IV and V of the Root-Bryce Treaty of April 1 1 , 1 908. And seven reports of the International Boundary Commission cover the re-demarcation of the remaining sections of the Canadian-American boundary line. James H. Van Wagenen and Noel J. Ogilvie to the Secretary of State and the Canadian Minister of the Interior Oct. 27, 1 93 1. Joint Report upon the Survey and Demarcation of the Boundaries etc., p. 1. These reports are published under the authority of the International Boundary Commission. But the readjustments have altered matters of detail only, the main lines remaining the same as those laid down by the first Commissions. INTRODUCTION 129 methods of force. Neither side has attained, in every case, all that it felt entitled to claim; but both sides have shown themselves ready to debate, willing to arbitrate, and, most important of all, prepared to accept verdicts, even when their acceptance has meant a reduction of their conscientious claims, the abandonment of things once thought to be their own. No two nations with extensive common boundaries can fairly hope to escape new conflicts of interest, new causes of friction: but a clear knowledge of what America and England have faced, and what es- caped by the right use of reason, should help them and others to be as wise in the future as these two have been in the past. For that reason, every phase of the long contest, by which the Canadian-American boundary line, from being dangerously vague, has become perfectly distinct by mutual agreement, is important in the story of western civilization. At times Canadians and Britons, at times Americans, have felt a passing resentment over the clever diplomacy, the at times too keen trading capacity of the other; but in the end each has decided to be content with its bargains, bargains which have meant, at any rate, lasting peace. In so far as Joseph Delafield contributed to that result, and he did make substantial contributions, his Diary of the eleven years of his "dwelling in the wilderness" deserves respectful attention. THE DIARY In preparing this Diary for publication, the editors have felt that it should be presented as written, with all of its quaint spellings 391 as such oddities may serve to emphasize the fact that it was written, not for public perusal, but to refresh its author's mind when preparing argu- ments in support of what he considered America's just claims. Many of the entries were hurriedly penned, after days of hard labor in a wild and practically unsettled country; but the Diary as a whole, still pre- served in twelve neatly written little volumes, shows astonishingly ac- curate research into the history of disputed questions, and an unusual ability to mass arguments, and make them, in many cases, complete demostrations. Such research was of course impossible in the field where the Diary was written: but was carried on, between seasons, in Washington and New York, where collections of old maps, and early documents were 391 The editors have, however, for convenience in reading, generally extended the abbreviations and made the capitalization conform to modern practice. i 3 o THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY available. Major Delafield's eleven years with the Commission were therefore complete years, the open seasons being devoted to work on the border, and the inclement seasons to patient study at home or in the nation's capital. The apparently casual references in the Diary are therefore far from casual. They represent conclusions based upon accurate knowledge, systematically acquired from the best available sources. Varied forms of place names and of proper names appear in the Diary, the reason being that, even in the early nineteenth century, such names had not taken forms uniform in all sections. At first Major Delafield's spelling was largely phonetic, as the Britons with whom he came into contact were unable to pronounce French names properly, and spelled as they pronounced. As he progressed along the boundary, and came into closer contact with the French Canadians, however, he adopted both their pronunciation and their spelling, which were more conventional and more definitely French. While somewhat lax in regard to names, spelling and diction, in his personal Diary, Major Delafield was most careful and accurate in the preparation of the official reports of the Commission most of which were compiled by him, signed by him, and by him presented to the State Department. These show a man of education and exceptional ability, always ready to learn, but firm in maintaining conclusions once reached by research. To this firmness America owes its success in preserving for its own people the rich triangle lying between the St. Louis River and the Pearl, and extending to Lac La Pluie, or the Rainy Lake. This triangle, clearly shown on the maps produced in this edition of the Diary, now contains some 200,000 Americans, and in- cludes the prosperous City of Duluth. Had not Major Delafield success- fully resisted the British claim that the line follow the St. Louis River, and had not the Commissioner, General Peter B. Porter, accepted Delafield's conclusion, these would now probably lie within the Domin- ion of Canada. Was it Delafield's own idea to put forward a claim to the Kaman- istegua route as an offset to the British claim of the St. Louis River? The Diary makes clear the fact that it was, and describes the laborious journey which its author and "Mr. Whistler" made over that route, in order to prepare what it describes as an "offset to the British claim by the Fond du Lac route," "Mr. Whistler (George Washington Whistler, a draftsman attached to the Commission) sketching ... as good a topographical map of the route as our rapid voyage permitted. ..." The "Mr. Whistler" here mentioned later became the father of the artist, James Abbott McNeill Whistler, who after having been expelled from West Point, attempted to follow in his father's footsteps by taking INTRODUCTION 131 service as a draftsman with the United States Coast Survey. With more genius than his father, James Abbott McNeill Whistler lacked the qual- ities which had made that father so valuable a member of Major Dela- field's surveying party. In the end James was ignominiously dismissed from the Coast Survey; but he subsequently won fame as one of the leading artists of his day. In the Diary one looks in vain for any reference to the Rush-Bagot Agreement for disarmament on the lakes, probably the most important and far-reaching achievement of the period. The reason is evident: Delafield was not writing a history of the period, but recording his personal experiences. But his frequent references to points which ap- pealed to his trained military mind as suitable for military establish- ments show that he was alert to the military interest of his country, as well as to her territorial claims, and may indicate that the Americans of that day were not so certain as are we that such a boundary can safely be left to the guardianship of reason and a sense of fair play. Of great interest to the geodesist is Major Delafield's description of triangulation. Observations made at night on large bonfires served the purposes of the time, but could hardly be accepted by modern sur- veyors. However, where trigonometric methods were used, the work was more accurate than surveys undertaken in other parts of the country and, up to that time, the most precise yet attempted. Aside from his official duties as Agent, Major Delafield's chief in- terest seems to have been the study of mineralogy. Many pages of the Diary present careful, informed observations upon rocks and fossils: but the editors have relegated the more extended of these to small print and to the notes 392 as not germane to the subject in hand, i.e. surveying activities along the boundary. It is unfortunate that the Diary was not made public at the time of the filing in the State Department of the official records of the Com- mission and its surveys. Its early publication might have prevented some needless controversies, as it would have settled some moot points, and thus helped successive Commissioners in the work of determining the line from St. Regis to the Lake of the Woods, almost one half of "the unfortified boundary." 392 The omissions are indicated in the text by series of dots. THE DIARY THE DIARY BOOK ONE May 3, i8iy to September 5, 1817 1 8 1 7. Saturday, May 3d. Left New York in steam boat Chancellor Livingston with Gen'l Porter, 1 Majr. Fraser, 2 Mr. Adams 3 & attend- ants and arrived in Albany on the 4th. 5th, 6th, 7th & 8th. Spent at Albany making preparations &c. 9th. Left Albany with Genl. Porter passing thro Troy, Waterford to Sandy Hill where we were joined by Majr. Fraser, slept at Fort Anne and in the morning of the 10th arrived at Whitehall, visited the squadron lying in ordinary consisting of the Confiance & Linnet prize ships & the Saratoga, Ticonderoga & Eagle, the latter was built in 1 7 days, a fine vessel, in the afternoon embarked in the sloop Planet & were wind bound in the drowned lands until the 13th when we visited the works at Ticonderoga,- extensive & do not appear exposed to the high land on the S.W. on acct. of its distance altho the garrison were driven out by the enemies' possession of said high land — also viewed Crown Point from the vessel. Works appear in better preservation and very extensive. 14th. Stopped at Essex and at Plattsburgh where we landed Mr. Adams & attendants with the apparatus for St. Regis & continued on — passing over the waters where McDonough fought his battle, enter- ing the land noticed a fort within the U. S. said to have been occupied by the British but 17 years ago, cleared out at the Custom House on the lines about sundown, and arrived at St. Johns early on the 15th 1 General Peter Buel Porter, of Niagara County, New York, American Commissioner under Articles VI and VII of the Treaty of Ghent. His commission was dated January 16, 1816, and his oath as Commissioner was taken before Chief Justice Smith Thomp- son, of New York (text: Journal, p. 7). 2 Major Donald Fraser, of New York, was named as American Secretary to the Commission on the Canadian boundary on May 23, 181 7 (Journal, p. 8). Stephen Sewell, of Montreal, was named as British Secretary of the Commission at the same time. They drew lots as to which should be Secretary and which Assistant Secretary and Sewell won first place, becoming Secretary. Sewell resigned on June 4, 181 9, and Fraser became Secretary (Journal, p. 31), with Dr. John Biggsby as Assistant Secretary (Journal of July 24, 1822, p. 44). 8 David P. Adams, of Boston, Principal Surveyor of the boundary commission of which Porter was nominal head, but of which Delafield soon became the active head. 136 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY and on that day crossing La Priarie (La Prairie) to the ferry below Montreal reached the city by 2 o'clock, learned that Col. Ogilvy 1 had left for St. Regis, having previously made all necessary preparations for our party here. In the evening were joined by Col. Hawkins. 1 6th. Made preparations to join Col. Ogilvy at St. Regis by order- ing the baggage to La Chine — visited the churches &c, not remark- able. Not admitted to the nunneries, but on certain days. Weather moderate and pleasant; the day before, in crossing La Priarie toward Montreal, experienced very cold weather and a snow storm. May 1 7th. In the afternoon left Montreal and reached La Chine — a very handsome ride. The island being in high cultivation, and the shores low and easy of ascent. A ridge of commanding high land runs nearly parallel with the shore about & from a quarter to half a mile distant. Rapids three miles below La Chine, immediately opposite Montreal & between yi and ^ mile distant is Grant's Island of St. Helena. The British contemplate fortifying this position, 2 taking the island in exchange for Citadel Hill, now occupied by the fort for bar- racks, etc. & where is now sinking a large reservoir to supply the town with water. This hill is commanding, but without fortifications, nor does the island appear fortified at any point — Chataga settlement & point opposite La Chine & is a prominent point. Cochnarwaga settle- ment also opposite appears a more eligible point for an embarkation. A canal is contemplated thro the flats, from La Chine to Montreal, said to be 9 miles. May 1 8th. Proceeded to Point Clear, a Canadian settlement 9 miles from La Chine. Country continues well cultivated — land very rich and level — the shores low. From thence to the upper ferry at the head of the Isle de Peion and the — end of Montreal Island where comes in the Ottonwa (Ottawa) or Grand River, running by many islands of various sizes, by which we pass in crossing the ferry on the Moine could procure no other means of transportation than the 1 John Ogilvy, of Montreal, was born in Scotland about the year 1 769, came to Canada in 1790 and became a partner in the firm of Parker, Gerrard & Ogilvy which joined with Forsyth, Richardson & Co., and became the XY Company. John Mac- donald in his autobiography, says that in 1 798 John Ogilvy was at the head of the XY Company. He signed in 1804 the agreement by which the XY Company and North West Company were amalgamated. His commission as Commissioner under Article VI was dated June 13, 1816. His oath was taken before Jonathan Sewell, Chief Justice of Lower Canada (text: Journal, pp. 3-5). Ogilvy died at Sandwich, Upper Canada, on Sept. 28, 1 81 9, and Anthony Barclay became Commissioner. 8 This is the first reference in the Diary to plans for fortifications along the Ca- nadian border, or upon disputed areas: but it is by no means the last. BOOK ONE 137 calaches, 1 which are in general use, reached "The Cedars" the first stage 1 1 miles. Country rich & cultivated, settled by Canadians — Cath- olic Churches in all these settlements. The river obstructed by many islands and rapids. 19th. Proceeded on to Coteau de Lac 2 7 miles, a small settlement — a block house and a fort by the rapids. Fort appears strong, and outer works with a deep ditch, covers the fort, which is intercepted by the locks of the canal — a garrison of 50 men, and is the staff head'qrs for the corps of engineers. Point Diable about a mile below Coteau is difficult to pass coming up — from the Cedars to Coteau are few if any islands. The rapids at Coteau are passed by a lock — another rapid just above. From this to MacDonald's Point, which is the entrance of Lake St. Francis is 3 miles — at the landing lie 2 immense anchors, intended for Kingston, weighing each Soj4 hundreds — at this point we embarked in our baggage batteaux up the lake which nowhere appears to exceed 3 or 4 miles in width. Rowed 14 miles to McPherson's where we lodged. Country not so well cleared or settled but rich land. The boundary line between the two provinces is at Point di Bode — about the middle of the lake. 20th. Went on to McLaughlin's 7 miles — on this point is a block house. The River Raisin enters the lake on the N.W. side of this point. A little island lies off its mouth called Island of Raisins, from its growth of grapes. In the river is better fishing than in the lake, in Spring & Fall. For this last route the land is mostly marsh & covered with wood — after leaving the block house on McLaughlin's Point the islands in the lake increase, to Charlottenbergh is 7 miles, from thence to St. Regis on the opposite shore is 4 or 5 miles. The island of St. Regis intervening between the two latter places — arrived at the village of St. Regis 3 in the afternoon, having first stopped at Col. Ogilvy's camp a little north of the village on the Isle de St. Regis. St. Regis contains but one or two English or American residents. A Catholic Priest is the tribunal to which the natives on all occasions refer. The Indians are civil and docile, but when in liquor. Attended vespers in the church, where there was an appearance of devotion and much decency — none but females present, who were mostly covered with dark cloth mantles in lieu of the common blanket, adding to the solemnity. In the evening 1 Caliche, a light, low carriage of French origin, "sorte de capote qu'on portee les dames." 'Perhaps meant for Cote-du-Lac, in memory of Cote d'Or, a department of Bur- gundy, or Cotes-du-Nord, a department of Britanny, in France. 3 By the VI Article of the Treaty of Ghent, under which the boundary commission was to operate, St. Regis was the point of beginning for their operations. 138 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY was joined by Mr. Adams and Mr. Bird 1 and attendants with the astronomical apparatus, they having crossed from Plattsburgh thro the Chategea Woods over exceeding rough roads. 2 1 st. Crossed early in the morning to the Isle de St. Regis, and encamped on a point opposite the village a little S. W. of the British camp, which Mr. Adams & myself proposed to call Treaty Point 2 — most of the day engaged in arranging encampment — clearing the grounds. Indians bring in supplies of venison, milk, &c. May 2 2d. Engaged preparing camp — and arrangements for pro- ceeding to business — discovered about a mile distant to the S. on the opposite bank a quantity of ice & snow. The weather warm and pleasant. The boat channel is on the North side of this island because more direct, but sufficient water on the South side for all purposes of the river. May 23d. The Commissioners met at St. Regis, and adopted some preliminary regulations and adjourned to meet on the 26th at Genl. Porter's Marquee on the island. It was arranged that Mr. (Stephen) Sewell be the Secy, of the Board, Majr. (Donald) Fraser Asst. Secy. May 24th. Accompanied Col. Ogilvy and Genl. Porter to Corn- wall, a small settlement on the North shore opposite Grand Isle de St. Regis — mostly settled by American refugees and English. All neces- saries may be readily procured there. The Grand Isle and its neigh- boring country is beautifully situated and land very rich — no cultiva- tion but a few Indians. The Secy, and Asst. Secy., Mr. Fraser, were sworn in before a magistrate at Cornwall. The most valuable timber has been cut from these islands, some by trespassers, mostly by con- tractors to the British Admiralty Board. May 25th. Engaged mostly in preparing affidavits for the surveyors. The Commissioners without consulting the Agent drafted an affidt placing the surveyors exclusively under their control — to which the Agent objects on the ground that his duties require that the surveyors should receive his instructions that he may be enabled to be prepared with the necessary testimony to substantiate his claims — that they are the witnesses under his management — that the Commissioners have no control over him out of court, but may direct his proceedings as to time and place, that the Commissioners are the judges and should not 1 William A. Bird, of Troy, appointed as "one of the clerks or Assistant Surveyors.'* At the St. Regis meeting of the Board, May 23, 181 7, he was made Assistant Surveyor with Alexander Stevenson (Journal of July 24, 1822, Mss. National Archives). Re- signed Mar. 1, 1 82 1, Mr. Ferguson taking his place (Journal, Ibid., pp. 1 30-1 31). 2 Treaty Point was later known as Point Peace and the point below where the British camp stood was called Point Amity. BOOK ONE 139 procure testimony, but may require what they think fit thro him. Genl. Porter thinks otherwise. He circumscribes the Agent's duties to a counsellor of the Board — while the Agent considers himself the counsellor of his country. An explanation takes place between Genl. Porter & Col. Hawkins as to their respective duties, when this variance as above related appears. Col. Hawkins 1 prepares an affidt placing the surveyors under the direction of the Commissioners, as well as of the Agents, consenting that any directions he may give shall be first approved by the Commissioners and prepares a note for the Board with affidt annexed. Were visited by several chiefs from St. Regis. Stephen Burrows, the notorious counterfeiter, is now a Priest, at Three Rivers, of the Catholic Church. His daughter, also of great skill in the art, has taken the White Veil of the Order of St. Ursuline, 4th. July. 26th. The Board met in Genl. Porter's Marquee. Col. Hawkins presented his credentials — handed in a note recommending the form of an oath for surveyor and assistant as described above. The Board desire him to prepare for them an expose of his duties as he conceives them, preparatory to their adopting regulations — and do not adopt the Agent's form for oath, but confine surveyors' instructions to such as are derived from the Board. Mr. Adams, the surveyor, prepared to commence operations. The weather unfavorable for astronomical observation. Many altitudes observed but not able to get the corre- spondents. A question may arise as it relates to the 45 of latitude like this: should not the latitude be calculated to the spheroidical figure of the earth? The present line of 45 is by the usual astronomical supposi- tion of the earth being a sphere. Calculate it as a spheroidical parallel, and the line will be drawn 14' 58" North of the present line, adding that gain of territory to the United States. The weather rather cold, a little snow fell at St. Regis. Snow banks still to be seen about one mile south on the shores. The fish common to these waters are sturgeon, which are much better than salt water sturgeon. Black bass are good. A fish corresponding with our sheepshead is taken but not eaten of choice, it has no teeth & is called sheepshead by the English. A small lobster about 2 to 3 inches is found corresponding in all things to our lobsters is the cray fish. Pike are also taken. Have seen no shell fish — mullett & whitefish. Thermometer at noon 74 , at night 10 o'clock 54 , which has been the regular variation between day & night since our * Colonel Samuel Hawkins had been appointed Agent on April 11, 1816, by James Madison (Journal of July 24, 1822, pp. 9-10 for text) but did not present his com- mission to the Board until May 26, 181 7. He was therefore acting before formally taking office (Porter to Richard Rush, Acting Secretary of State, May 27, 181 7. Mss. in National Archives. Journal 10 gives the text of his commission). i 4 o THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY encampment. Pickerel, salmon, salmon-trout, cat fish, yellow perch, eels, black bass, muskinonge. 1 27th. Mr. Ellicott and son arrived at the camp. Two deer seen on the island. Thermometer at midnight 32 °. 28th. Ice in the morning and thermometer at 4 o'clock a. m. at 30 . A fine spring cleared on the shore with a temperature of 46°, being four degrees cooler than the river and about the same number of degrees cooler than the springs in the states. Visited Mr. Markoe the Catholic Priest at St. Regis with Col. Ogilvy, a polite, intelligent & amiable man — has great sway over the Indians. Col. Ogilvy presents them with 50 bushels of potatoes. Mr. Adams runs a base line of 1400 ft. on the opposite shore. May 29th. The Board sits in the British camp, instructed Mr. Adams to proceed, and agreed to receive several reports from Messrs. Adams, Ellicott 2 and Thompson 3 . Observed some squaws planting seeds which had been previously covered in the earth, and permitted to remain 'til germinating — having found their place of deposit they carried off only such seeds as had sprouted, to plant, thus securing a crop without any waste land. The seeds were corn, cucumbers, peas & beans. The Indians of St. Regis cultivate considerable land & much of this island. The women join in the labor. But few talk English, but many talk French. The Indian language, Mr. Markoe tells me, has but 12 letters, the most of their sounds being gutteral. The St. Regis Indians are from the Mohawk and said by Douglas in his History of America, Pub. 1755, to be a parcel of Ave Maria idle praying Indians, runaways from the Mohawks. The Indians laugh at our wearing of watches. In their language they describe watches as "something in the breeches." The Indians have no oaths, but in French and English they swear. The Kahnuagas (now called Cochnawagas) are of the same origin. 1 This entry shows Major Delafield's interest in questions of natural history, which characterized him throughout his entire life. 2 The Journal of July 24, 1822, p. 14, records the fact that the Board under Articles VI and VII has just informed the Board under Article V that "A. Ellicott, Esq. is now at St. Regis with his instruments engaged; also separately from the other astrono- mers in taking observations." Andrew Ellicott died at West Point August 29, 1820. His brother Joseph Ellicott who was born in Bucks Co., Pa. Nov. I, 1760 died August 19, 1826. He was for many years in the employ of the Holland Land Company. He was called the "founder of Buffalo." 3 David Thompson, Astronomical Surveyor for the British Section of the Board under Articles VI and VII (list in National Archives and Journal of July 24, 1822, P- 25). BOOK ONE 141 30th. 1 Weather fine, thermometer 8 a. m. at 56 . Examined in comp'y with Mr. Ellicott and Genl. Porter a mound of which the Indians here have no tradition — is about 40 feet in diameter and 8 or 10 high — had been opened by some travelers about a year ago, who took from it arrow piles of stone, stone hatchets &c. No evidence of its antiquity to be discovered other than the loss of its history by the Indians — found on this island concretions of marine shells and petri- factions of the smaller kind, to wit, muscles. Mr. Ellicott asserts that the large marine shells are only found about the level of the ocean and the smaller ones on mountains &c. According to his theory there is not so much water on the globe as there has been. He thinks the vegetable and brute creation existed before man (no doubt) — says there never has been found a petrifaction of a human being, that one, it is said, was found at Gibraltar, (should be Guadaloupe. See Guvier) . He is not a naturalist. Maple elm & pine prevail in this neighborhood. Observed on the island a field of evergreen such as is planted in our gardens for orna- ment — and noticed a bird of the hanging or wood pecker kind not recollected to have seen before — grey back, black wings, yellow head on its top — tail forked, and long talons — bill not long. Drafted, for Col. Hawkins 5 satisfaction, an argumentative report of the relative duties of Commissioner & Agent, agreeably to the tenor of the treaty & his instruction — submitted the same to him. 31st. Weather cold and cloudy. Dined with Col. Ogilvy and party and spent evening. June 1st. Spent at St. Regis with Col. Hawkins, suffered in the morning from Mr. J. Ellicott burning charcoal in my tent when asleep. Weather cold. June Qd. Spent at St. Regis, engaged in making up a note for the Commissioners on the subject of relative duties, and copies for the Dept. of State. Weather cold; ice formed in the two last mornings. Mr. Ellicott's apparatus arrived. 1 On May 29 the Board was in session. It resolved on that day, "That the Board will proceed to ascertain the point at which the 45th degree of North latitude, con- tinues West from the Connecticut River, strikes the river Iroquois or Cataraguy." (Journal of July 24, 1822, p. 12). Ogilvy reported that same day that "Mr. David Thompson did take during the last winter and spring a series of observations for ascer- taining the said point." (Ibid., p. 12). The Board then directed Mr. David P. Adams, American Surveyor, to "proceed alone, with all convenient expedition, to take observa- tions for the same purpose; both series to be made use of as the Board may hereafter order and direct, and that, during the time that Mr. Adams shall be so occupied, Mr. Thompson (the British surveyor) shall proceed with the survey of the river Iroquois or Cataraguy, upwards, commencing at, and from the church of St. Regis — ." (Ibid., p. 12). 142 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY June 3d. Cross'd over to the camp. Mr. Ellicott preparing his in- struments. Has with him a zenith sector with a 6 foot radius, a pendu- lum clock and other instruments made by himself & Mr. Rittenhouse. A transit instrument made by himself with acromatic glasses, he says, is the first made in America. Profr. Ellicott uses for the wires (as commonly called) of his telescopes cob or spiders' webs which he claims as original & American & far exceeds any hairs or wire ever used and promises to show us the preparation. The silk worm spins a double thread, which is joined together on passing the plate of the worm — and consequently makes a flat thread. The spider does not spin less than 3 threads, which are twisted together and make a round web — a singular circumstance attending the spider's web is that how- ever much twisted, it will not untwist. Returned to St. Regis with Col. Hawkins. Board met at Point Peace, ordered their Secy, to acquaint the Board sitting at Boston, of their progress here, requesting a joint meeting to establish the 45th , being a point common to both Commissions. Col. Hawkins presents his state- ment of relative duties & remonstrates against the course persued. June 4. Col. Ogilvy moves his camp to Grand Isle de St. Regis & Cornwall Island. Dine with the gentlemen of Cornwall who celebrate the birthday of Geo. 3d.; Col. McLean, Mr. Anderson, Judge Ander- son, Mr. McDonald, Wood, French, Mr. Conly &c. principal inhabit- ants. Heavy rain. Spent the night with our friends at Cornwall. June 5th. Cross'd from Cornwall to the Grand Isle to British Camp, and thence walked down the island to its point, and cross'd to the Petit Isle. The Grand Isle is a beautiful and rich isle — elm, maple, birch and bass wood. The North West end is most rough, and there is occasionally a ridge of or rather a flat of sand. Considerably culti- vated by Indians. Could not learn that they could grant satisfactory titles. An apple orchard was then in full bloom. Strawberry, black- berry & gooseberry vines are found. The elm produces the greatest quantity of strongest ashes. The maple perhaps as strong, but not so great a quantity — and are the best wood for ashes. Weather moderate, thermometer about 6o°. Sent dispatches to Secry. of State, by dispatch to Salmon River. 1 June 6th. Still at St. Regis, weather wet. 7th. At St. Regis, weather cloudy & wet. 8th. The Indians celebrate this day as their greatest holiday, under the management of the Catholic Priest. Attended church where cere- 1 "The Indians on the British side remain in quiet possession of the lands they are on. On the American side the Indians have an idea that, in their treaty with the States, they received the Islands. This, I am told, is not the case." Note by Major Delafield. BOOK ONE 143 mony was conducted with great decency and solemnity. Two files of armed Indians with rifle &c. and each file bearing two English stand- ards formed thro the centre of the church dividing male & female. They alternately chanted the service with unexpected harmony and in very good time. The music was reduced to some scientific scale, their leaders using notes. After the ceremony the armed Indians formed in the same order without, and after firing a round the Priest with his train formed a procession through the village followed by most of the inhabitants after the manner of the Catholics. As is the Indian custom there were built by the squaws, two arbors & little coverings, fancifully decorated with all the ribbons, pictures, mirrors, tinsel and the like that could be collected. On the Priest's arriving at these, he entered and went thro with some portion of the service in which his followers joined with great zeal. The British party had built one and the Ameri- cans another. Margaret Gray, the daughter of Col. Gray dec'd, built the American. She is a fine, frank, well made & well looking woman and of good education, speaking the English and French languages with much purity, acquired at Montreal. The holiday is in celebration of some of the saints, but none have been able to explain to me which. Our calendar gives it as St. Medard's. I presume, however, they never dreamed of Medard. The village has been prepared for the occasion, by sweeping the lanes which are in green sod, & very regular, and planting rows of poplar & hemlock, on either side giving it quite a fanciful appearance. Several tell me the celebration is in commemora- tion of Romulus, I know not why — but, as connected with the found- ing of the place which names their faith. A little incident occurred in our ramble today worthy of note. On visiting Margaret's show house, we gave her from the party three dollars, induced by her friendly con- duct & disposition to Americans; and the fact that the other party had on many occasions, indeed all, been noticed in this way by the British. The other party did not on this occasion however, meet with the like good fortune. The consequence was, they demanded to share with Margaret the fruits of the day, who not understanding this law of distribution, declined. The matter was refered to the Priest, who replied, "Margaret has probably been free with these Gentn. let her keep her reward!" Poor Margaret suffers as much mentally for the asper- sion of the Priest, as morally, & evinces distress that is highly creditable. How the affair will be finally adjusted I cannot surmise; but her brother-in-law (Lee) a white man talks of removing his family from the village, saying that the Priest disturbs his quiet by such conduct, which is bottomed in his enmity to Yankees. He (the Priest) is a young man educated at Quebec. The U. S. flag & a few pounds of powder presented to the American Chiefs here would so far as I can discover, i 4 4 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY set all things right. They rally under the British flag because they have no other — and rejoice with the powder presented to them by the British, because no one else gives it to them. I would make the village thoroughly American with $50. The day very fine and much company from the neighboring places — probably 1000 people present. A little frost the two last nights. June 9th. Overcast with clouds and some rain, continue at St. Regis, drafted letter to the Priest, inclosing documents submitted to the Board on the subject of Agency, in question — made up dispatches for Priest. Board meets on Cornwall Island. 1 10th. Heavy and incessant rain, continue at St. Regis. June 1 1 th. Weather clear and cool. Mr. Ellicott makes observations. June 1 2 th. Clear, crossed to the camp and pitched Col. H's. Marquee. Mr. Ellicott cuts a meridian across the island. Mr. Adams having surveyed to the W. end of the Grand Isle St. Regis, on the S. side is returning on the N. side — returned to St. Regis in the afternoon. 1 3th. Clear, crossed to the camp and returned to dine. Find Judge Atwater 2 & son at the tavern with whom we spend the evening. June 14th. Clear. The Indians of the village turn out to hunt deer back of the town, having got in their rear they spread from St. Regis to the Racket River, with the view of driving them to the St. Law- rence: man a canoe and join the hunt, the deer are beset by the dogs and driven across the Racket. The wild cat or catamount is still found in this and the adjoining country. A large prem'm is p'd for taking them. Judge Atwater spends the day up the St. Regis River rafting timber that had been cut & prepared by trespassers on land under his agency, and collected about 30,000 ft. It is a common trespass in this country, and the matter is often compromised between the parties. The judge however claims not only the labor bestowed on the timber, but the expense of rafting, from the trespassers. Daniel McCormick owns valuable timber lands on this river, and one or more townships in the neighborhood. 15th. Clear and pleasant. In the St. Regis church till of late has been a bell that was brought by the Indians from Deerfield in Mass. in 1759 or 60. They made an attack upon that place, burned it to- gether with the church, first saving the bell, and bro't home with them Mr. Williams, 3 the Priest, who settled among them. Williams, the Chief, 1 See Journal which gives minutes of this meeting on pp. 14-15. 2 Judge Russell C. Atwater once an active politician, and follower of Clinton and became a farmer. 3 At Deerfield, Mass., on Feb. 28, 1704 occurred the famous massacre. John Wil- liams, the clergyman, and his family were taken to an Indian village in Canada. BOOK ONE 145 is a descendant of his and there are other of his relatives now living in the neighborhood — crossed to the camp dined with Genl. Porter in comp'y with Judge Atwater &c. and returned. Frost during the night. The muskinonge is a fine fish caught in these waters, also are the eels. 1 6th. Weather cold and windy. Board sits at Genl. Porter's Marquee — adopt rules — transmit the Agent a copy. 5th. rule states "that the Board will be ready on all proper occasions to receive, hear & consider all such evidences, claims, statements, suggestions and other com- munications, connected with the execution of its duties, as the Agents appointed on behalf of the respective governments may deem proper." 1 This rule has the semblance of concurring with Col. Hawkins' views of the Agency, but is rendered almost negative by the expression of "all proper occasions." Mr. Ellicott dines with us at St. Regis. Our eels were cooked with the skins on. Mr. Ellicott asserts that eels and catfish should always be cooked in their skins — thus scald the fish and with a woolen cloth wiping them hard, you prepare them in the best manner for cooking. Frost during the night. June 17th. Weather clear & pleasant. Went to the mills about two miles up the St. Regis River, a handsome site for mills said to belong to Mr. Hogan 2 of New York. The land is good but rather low. Mr. Oliver of Baltimore has the greatest interest in the above mill site. June 1 8th. Warm and sultry. Mr. Simpson brings in a fine deer, weighs before cleaning 190. Are plenty in the neighborhood — take to the islands. Mr. Ellicott proceeds in his observations, with his zenith sector and is upon the 2d half of the circle, to detect errors &c. Syrius, Capella and Lyra are the best stars for observation in latitudes from 49°N. to 3 1 ° and he prefers the day time, because of the nicer accuracy with which he can examine his instruments, than by any other light. June 19th. Clear and pleasant. The Chiefs of the village assemble at our lodgings to execute a lease of a store lot to Judge Atwater for 10 dlls. yearly rent, the delivery of which I witness. They, after this form was over, christened us all with Indian names, Judge Atwater they called Ska ro ya te (Beyond the Sky) , Col. Hawkins, Ga ron gon tia (the Flying Moon), myself, Ga ra give ne gen (the Rising Sun), R. C. Atwater, Ga ra giv a na (the Full Moon), Judge Richards, Ze ra go He and others were in time released but his daughter, Eunice, a child of eight years, was kept by the Indians, married one of them and left descendants. 1 Journal of July 24, 1822, p. 15 for fuller details. 2 William Hogan, born in New York City in 1792, graduated Columbia College in 181 1, became a lawyer, bought land in Black River County, N. Y., became a county judge. The town of Hogansfort is named after him. 146 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY rus (the Split or Half Moon). The Chiefs of the St. Regis tribe are Loran Tarbell Kingfisher, White Mitchell, Jacob Sa wa tis ga no wa ta se. Peter is their treasurer or secretary. June 20th. Crossed to the camp, Mr. Adams engaged at home running base line and measuring angles. Mr. Ellicott loses his observa- tion on acct. of the clouds — his zenith sector takes in five degrees — he observes 3 stars by day and 3 by night — these stars are but about 2 minutes in the field of his glass, so that an accurate calendation is required to set his instrument. He observes that he never was so often interrupted by the weather in the course of his observing as at this spot. The weather this day, warm and appearance of thunder showers. Col. H. and Mr. Simpson go out over night to hunt deer & return in the morning with a buck shot at 36 rods between the fore shoulders, who runs 3 miles, takes to the river and is caught with difficulty by a dog and canoe. 2 1 st. Spend the day at the camp, clear and pleasant weather but lowering clouds for short intervals prevent observations — study as- tronomy — return in the evening. Indians complain of our trespasses in cutting the meridian line across the island, but are satisfied with the compensation of a little bread and pork. Bugs, to wit wood ticks and also musquitoes, exceedingly annoying on the island. Variation of the needle 5 degrees and 20 min: West. 22nd. Cross to the camp and remain. Weather pleasant. June 23rd. Weather pleasant, in the afternoon heavy showers. Ice, the remains of a large bank on the shore was to be seen this day. 24th. Commence our establishment in the Marquee with our own table &c. Weather clear and cool. Read Heriot's Travels thro the Canadas and began with the study of the French language. Bad weather for observations, being most of the day cloudy. Mr. Adams reaches his meridian line of the N. side of this isle, having surveyed around the Grand Isle of St. Regis. June 25th. Many clouds in the heavens but no rain — cool morning and warm afternoon. Strawberries begin to ripen. Mr. Ellicott com- putes his observation — we find the U. S. must lose territory. Mr. Holland 1 settled the boundary before — he was as near right as could be expected with the means he had. Mr. E. never had occasion to alter Mr. Holland's work altho often employed on the same points after him. Mr. E. insists upon the necessity of a zenith sector for nice ob- 1 Samuel Holland, born in Canada and died there in 1801. He became Surveyor General of the Colonies north of Virginia, and later Surveyor General of Lower Canada. As such he had run the boundary line in this neighborhood some years before this date. BOOK ONE 147 servation — and says since 1730 no other instrument has been used where the greatest accuracy was required. The mouth of the Racket River becomes interesting from the fact that the line cutting that point makes it eligible for a settlement and port of entry. June 26th. Rain commences in the morning and continues all day and night, wind at S. W. Read Ellicott's Journal and French exercise. The party dines with us on a chowder made of a large cat fish or bullpout. This fish is much esteemed by persons here and not eat in some parts of the U. S. The salmon begin to come up the river; pickerel, black bass and eels are the most common and plenty. The wild rose is now blooming, the plant is seldom more than a foot or 18 inches high, bears much bloom and is fragrant, very plenty on the island. June 27th. Weather continues cloudy & wet, wind at S. W., no observations taken 'til midnight, when Mr. Ellicott completes his cir- cuit or course of observations with his sector — cold and damp. June 28th. Clear and pleasant, Mr. Adams and party cross the river to cut a line due E. and W. for the 45th parrallel agreable to Mr. Ellicott's observations — extend their meridian line from the island to the main til it reaches the 45th and clear away the trees to mark the line. It is a singular fact that none of us had discovered the old line run by Mr. Holland til brought to it in measuring off the meridian to reach the new one, as fixed by Mr. Ellicott. It is found about. . . . North of Mr E.'s line and designated by cut and blazed trees. The crosses erected thro the village do not mark the line as is commonly said. The present as well as the old line are South of the crosses. Great accuracy belongs to all of Mr. Holland's work, and had he been pos- sessed of the like instruments as Mr. Ellicott's it is probable no change would have taken place. Mr. Holland used for these purposes a quad- rant of superior excellence of 1 2 inch radius. Mr. Ellicott uses a zenith sector of 6 foot radius — Find on the shores of the island and also by the village handsome specimens of marine concretions of small shells. By our camp on the shore lies a rock 5 feet in length, composed throughout of shells and cement. The bloodroot or turmerick is to be found in abundance by the line near the village among the pines. Mr. Ellicott prides himself upon his instruments, which he calls American, and is pleased that this line has been run without foreign aid of scientific men or instruments. Col. Hawkins goes to Ogdensburgh. Terebra- tulae not in place. June 29th. High winds from S. & S.W. & E. Cloudy — tempera- ture moderate. Theomr. 72 — all hands employed in opening the lane. At night high winds with rain. June 30th. High winds and cloudy, all hands employed as yesterday but myself, remain at home study French &c. At night high winds and 148 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY heavy rain. Mr. Ellicott's line takes in but two houses in the village, which are South of it — some difficulty in getting rid of 3 squaws who take shelter in our Marquee late at night — the imprudent mischief of one carries her to the Genl.'s quarters, where she finds Mr. Ellicott Senr. asleep &c.l Drink much rum and steal if not watched. July 1. High wind and rain, wind W. S.W. — cool. Mr. Ellicott & party at work on the line — lay open a way of about ten feet width from St. Regis River to the bay formed by the point of land opposite the S. W. end of St. Regis Island which marks the line — we suppose it agrees very nearly if not exactly with Mr. Holland's line, the track of which is now rendered rather uncertain by the contradictory state- ments of the Indians and the variety of marks thro the woods, which confuse the explorer. July 2d. The Genl. & party visit the British camp on Bavahart's Island. 1 The Board sit. The Genl. receives a copy of an order issued by Genl. Brown 2 to the troops to offer all possible assistance to the Com- missioners in the prosecution of their duties. Mr. Ellicott examines the St. Regis River as high up as the mills in search of plants and minerals, find nothing worthy of note. Carbonates of lime prevail. The Seneca or sweet scented grass is luxuriant in this neighborhood. Mr. Adams remains at home to compute his observations, and a dose of medicine which I take, to guard against my billious disposition, confines me to the camp in the morning. In the evening Chief Justice Thompson, 3 Atty. Genl. Van Beuren, 4 Mr. Contine & Judge Atwater arrive from Ogdensburgh, where the court had been sitting. Col. Hawkins returns shortly after them, with a barge and two hands — high wind from the S. W. and clear. July 3d. Clear and very warm. Wind W., light. The Chief Justice & party leave us, the first night he ever lodged in a camp — they pro- ceed to Montreal as the most convenient route to their homes. Mr. Elli- cott takes down his zenith sector & makes preparations to leave us. 1 Barnhart's Island. * Gen. Jacob Brown, born Bucks Co., Pa. May 9, 1775, Major General command- ing the Northern Division of the American forces. His order was dated June 19, 181 7 and appears in the Journal (National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope III, Folder 3). 3 Smith Thompson, Chief Justice of New York, 1814-1818. In 181 8 President Monroe made him Secretary of the Navy and in 1823 ne was ma de an Associate Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States to succeed Judge Brockholst Livingston. 4 "Atty. Gen. Van Buren" Martin Van Buren, later President. In 181 5 he had been appointed Attorney General of New York: but in 1816 he had been reelected to the State Senate. Delafield evidently uses Van Buren's courtesy tide, as he was no longer "Atty. Gen." BOOK ONE 149 July 4th. Clear and warm. Celebrate this anniversary in our camp. The British party having declined our invitation, we are alone with the exception of Judge Atwater. July 5th. Clear and warm. Mr. Adams traverses the neighboring islands and completes his chart of this section — celebrate the anniver- sary of the Battle of Chippewa with same party as of yesterday. July 6th. Clear in the morning — stormy afternoon, wind S. W. At night heavy showers, with vivid & incessant lightning. July 7th. Genl. Porter with all the party, except that attached to the Agency, strike their tents and proceed up the river intending to encamp at the foot of the Long Sault. Stormy morning, wind S. W. — cloudy throughout the day with some rain. Col. Hawkins on his return from the Long Sault finds our stores at Cornwall. July 8th. Stormy morning, high winds from the N. E. but little rain. In the afternoon a heavy shower arises from the W. N. W. & prevails over the easterly storm; change of wind but rain continues thro the night. Mr. Ellicott & Judge Atwater spend the afternoon & dine with us, being detained on their passage to Montreal by the winds. Judge Atwater relates some curious anecdotes of the notorious Ethan Allen in relation to his marriage with his second wife. 1 She was a woman of many accomplishments & a fine person; had been the mis- tress of a British officer & was known to the Judge as well as to the Genl. (Allen) before his marriage. She was faithful to the satisfaction of Allen and is now the wife of a Mr at Burlington, Vermont. Allen's speculation in fire arms would have made him a Nabob in wealth had it have been effected. He was the owner at one time of a plot of 20 miles on Lake Champlain including all Burlington and the neighboring country. Judge Atwater is distinguished as a Clintonian, was once an active politician but has renounced those concerns for his farms &c. Mr. Ellicott a man of astron'l science, liberal in his politics & religion, was by family a Quaker, a Pennsylvanian, had spent his life in public employ — was, as he says, the associate of Ritten- house, the topographer of Washington — the companion of Hamilton, Madison, Burr &c. &c. he says that all the computations required by Hamilton in his system of finance were made by him — is at present the 1 She was Fanny, the daughter of Captain Montresor, a British officer. Captain Montresor died while she was a child and her mother then married Crean Brush, . . . a prosperous Vermont farmer. She had a rather better education and training than customary at the time in the locality. A quaint account of her marriage is given in The Life of Ethan Allen, by John Pell. Ethan Allen whom she married February 9, 1784 was her second husband. Her first husband, a British officer named Buchanan had died leaving her a widow at twenty-four, with one child. i 5 o THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Profr. of Mat. & Philos'y at West Point. In religion a sceptic — considers Utilitarianism the most reasonable but it is doubtful whether his faith is so enlarged as those of that sect. Benedict Arnold, the son of the traitor by that name, lives on this river — continues stormy during the night. Mr. Ellicott is described by Mr. A. as a lover of sleep and rememberancer of anno dominis ! Not inappropriate. July gth. Clear and pleasant — accompanied Mr. Ellicott and Judge Atwater to Calquhoun's at Charlottenbergh where they embarked for Montreal. Observed in Calquhoun's garden the astonishing rapidity of vegetation in this climate. Six weeks ago there was but little other appearance of a garden than its enclosure — a luxuriant growth now shows itself, in about the state of our gardens in middle of June. The Canada thistle is very troublesome to them. Mr. Ellicott, before taking leave, enjoined upon Col. H. the propriety of maintaining the parallel as run by him, in opposition to everything that might be done or said by other astronomers who did not take the fixed stars for their observa- tion. The gentlemen in the British camp talk of ascertaining latitude by the sun. This is well enough for common purposes; but to put this method in competition with the other for accuracy he conceives an evidence of ignorance. He explains to us the variation of the sun as being .... while that of the fixed stars is comparatively nothing. Mr. Thompson's line it is said strikes the Racket (Raquette) River. Mr. Adams will be a trifle North of Mr. Ellicott's. Should the line have gone y± of a mile South it would not have struck the river til you pass Massena Point, on acct. of the West course that the main takes. July ioth. Clear and warm. Col. H. & myself with Mr. Anderson (surveyor) & John Gray, interpreter, explore the South W. point of the Racket River and trace the line of Indian reservation — which we find about 2 1/£ miles back or up the river, and strikes the St. Lawrence about half a mile East of the S. W. end of Cornwall Island near a small islet — leaving on the point about 500 acres of land partly cleared and French settlers upon it. This point is eligibly situated for a settlement. The water bold on the Racket River side as also on the St. Lawrence, with small bays for harbors, and banks about 9 feet high and level. The interior is well settled, and an outlet here would prove a conven- ience. The situation is good for a point of entry, being the first harbor made on entering the States. July 1 ith. Cloudy with little rain, wind variable. Tempe. moderate. Study botany and prepare Hortus Siccus. Col. Hawkins goes to Malone. July 1 2th. Heavy showers of rain in the morning from the S. W., at noon warm with heavy clouds in the W., afternoon clear and pleas- ant, wind S. W. Study French. Matthew, our waiter, & myself alone on the island — depend upon the Indians who come to us in canoes for BOOK ONE 151 the means of egress &c. Have no occasion, however, to leave it, being well supplied with game beside our salt provisions &c. July 13th. Cool in the morning, and in the evening a seat by the fireplace is most comfortable. Clear, wind S. W. Indians with children frequent our camp for provisions, are in great want on account of the failure of their crops the last year — depend upon fish and what little game they bring in for support. There are some good looking fields of grain on this island, which are cultivated almost exclusively by the women. Corn, wheat, peas and potatoes & beans chiefly. He who first cultivated a plot of ground becomes the possessor, and by this use gains a right to sell his privilege. The Chief Loran, an industrious sober & prudent old man, is the greatest farmer and has the most cleared land by purchase of privilege in part. Before the Priest settled among them they had a custom in marriage somewhat descriptive of their habits; the man presents his bride with a deer skin, the squaw — her bride- groom with an Indian corn. The first as his pledge to support their family by hunting: the second as her pledge of industry at home in cultivating the fields. Col. Hawkins returns from Malone. July 14th. Clear and pleasant, wind S. W. Squaws bring us a fine mess of raspberries for the first this season. July 15th. Sultry, wind West. In the afternoon was visited by a party of ladies and gentlemen from French Mills and further up the Salmon River. Dr. Mann, 1 Judge Spencer, 2 Mr. Hitchcock, 3 Mr. Wallace & wives — from Mr. Mann I rec'd much information about the country in his neighborhood — in relation to the peculiar diseases of the country, he says that since his settling here, which was 12 years ago, there has been an entire change, that at that time epidemics were confined to the summer season, that now they have no epidemic but in the depth of winter and that is a high typhoid or spotted fever extremely putrefactive — healthy generally. Speaking of the rapidity of the vegetation he tells me that in six weeks after the snow left his grass meadow he cut four ton of hay pr. acre. The quantity of hay is remark- able, but the time of its growth a more material fact. The St. Regis Tribe, he says, have greatly diminished since he came to this country & he thinks certainly one half of the males were cut off during the late 1 Probably Dr. James Mann, born in Massachusetts in 1 759, for many years an army surgeon and after the War of 181 2 in charge of the medical department on the north- west frontier. 2 Probably Judge James Bradley Spencer, born Salisbury, Connecticut, settled in Franklin County, New York, was an officer in the War of 181 2, became county judge and surrogate and later a member of Congress. 3 Probably the well known Rev. Edward Hitchcock, born May 24, 1 793. His versa- tile and effective life is summarized in Appleton's Cyclopaedia of American Biography. 152 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY war on the Niagara frontier, they were in the ranks of the enemy mostly. These Indians cannot give much information about their history. Col. Gray's squaw and the squaw of Old Loran, the Chief, are best informed but are not very communicative. You must be in great favor to obtain any historical facts from them. The men are ignorant or mute. It appears that this neighborhood was the battle ground of the desperate wars that raged between the Oneidas and St. Francis Tribe. The Oneidas were united with most of the tribes lying South of the St. Lawrence in the now State of New York, in- cluding the St. Regis Tribe who came from the Mohawk & joined in these wars. The St. Francis were a numerous tribe inhabiting the coun- try along the lake of that name — and one of the Canada Nations — both parties were extremely reduced in these wars & their strength almost annihilated. An Oneida Chief called Onahata undertook the dangerous expedition of going among his enemies as a peace maker. He was selected as the most powerful warrior of the tribe. On his ap- proach he was treated as an enemy. By his prowess, however, he alone beat off his assailants & commanded their attention to his errand. His talk was heard and a treaty ensued. The small remnant of those who came from a part of the Mohawks, established themselves under Col. Louis as their Chief at St. Regis; the rest of the warriors returned to their old hunts and the Oneidas continue to this day in possession of their lands in the State of New York and are the last tribe remaining in that state. This is the origin of the St. Regis Tribe who appear to be fast diminishing. The intermarriage with whites, the Yankee settlers, and the Catholic Priests, have assimilated them in many respects to the whites. Their attachment however, to savage life, seems a native passion that is not to be controPd; so that their present situation is rendered disagreeable to them by the many checks and coercions that restrain them; and of consquence they must rove from their homes, or gradually waste away by the effects of an uncongenial life. July 1 6th. Clear and pleasant, wind S. W. The Indians use the plaintain leaf, the oak leaf and inner bark, and the inner bark of the pine tree, as antiseptics; as also the beach tree leaf &c. The blood root they use for their red dye. Crane bill for sore mouth, shin plaister for sores &c. &c. &c. 17th. Clear and pleasant, wind strong from S. W., warm thro the day — in the afternoon went up the St. Regis River as far as the mills — took a few bass with a trowling line. The salmon are taken in plenty at the dam about this season of the year. July 1 8th. Clear, and wind fresh from S. W., extremely warm. July 19th. Clear and strong wind from S. W. Went to Gen'l. Porter's camp opposite Barnhart's Island on Point Ellicott, a very pretty spot. BOOK ONE 153 This point is considered in the Long Sault. The waters are extremely rapid, but as yet I have seen no passes or rapids that appear to me to have a greater velocity than the tides of Hell Gate when half spent. Their abrupt descent over rocks is in most of the rapids their most grand and commanding feature. Such, however, have an improved navigation; so that I do not conceive the risk of transporting goods down this river equal to that of the Sound trade where the rapids of Hell Gate must be passed. This observation, however, is rather pre- mature as I have not yet ascended the greatest rapids in the river to its source. Dined with the Genl. and returned in the afternoon, stop- ping at Cornwall on my way. Learned at the camp that the Commis- sioners had held a meeting pro forma, having nothing to do as yet of moment, and that Col. Ogilvy had ascended the river about 5 miles higher up than Point Ellicott. July 20th. Clear & pleasant, wind S. W. Heavy clouds during the afternoon in the West. The Priest of St. Regis goes to hold a council with the Chiefs & British Indian Agent at Cornwall. Old Loran the Chief, with some of the younger men, accompany him. Peter and Jacob would not go. They are of the Yankee interest. Prepare to strike tents by daybreak in the morning. About 10 o'clock in the evening saw a most splendid Aurora Borealis or Northern Light, which quite illuminated the Northern hemisphere — in the course of 15 minutes it reached the zenith by flashes of light & then gradually disappeared. July 2 1 st. The day clear and pleasant, a little wind from the S. W. Our baggage boat arrived about sunrise. At seven o'clock it set off, with all our camp equipage and baggage, leaving Petite Isle de St. Regis to the sole possession of the few neighboring squaws that cultivate it. We ascended the river on the South side, passing first Crab Island, but a dot of land lying off the head of Petite Isle and dividing the waters which pass that island on either side. Grand Isle de St. Regis is next and extends an irregular shape about 5 miles and contains acres of land. A little stream called Grass River, sometimes Black River, empties into the St. Lawrence at the head of this island, on the N. York shore, and makes the fourth river, to wit the Salmon, St. Regis, Racket and Black River, that falls into the St. Lawrence in the distance of 15 miles, affording fine mill seats, and abounding in fish — at the head of Grand Isle de St. Regis, commonly called Cornwall Island, Massena Point, a prominent and bold point, extends itself toward the island, contracting the channel so much, as to force the great body of water that passes down with astonishing rapidity — it also enters the British side thro a narrow pass but it is said the greatest body of water passes on that side. The British side is used as the chan- nel, for boats both ascending & descending — then ascending about 154 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY 2 miles we reached Barnhart's Island & opposite on the main is Point Ellicott, which may be considered the foot of the great rapid, the Long Sault. We dined with Genl. Porter, and about i o'clock set out on our attempt to ascend the Long Sault on the American side. Col. Hawkins, myself and Capt. Polly, a brave partizan who had suffered many wounds and hard trials in our late contest and who is now incapacitated by his wounds for labor and appears to be living among his friends, with our three boatmen in our barge led the way. Capt. Polly was well acquainted with the pass, and we labored on with unremitted exer- tions til the close of day, when our baggage boat, being in the rear, we came to; and concluded to pitch our tents in the woods for the night, which was soon done, by placing our sails over a few crotch poles, covering the under ground with hemlock twigs, and building a large fire in front. The spot where we landed was sufficiently wild to initiate the white man in the savage life. Running our boat into the eddy, we entered under the thick branches of hemlock, pine and shubbery, into a little basin of land having on either side but the water side a very high hill, and so deep that in the day time I presume it is dark, as the trees that covered us, formed an entire canopy. The roar of the rush- ing torrents added to the grandure of the scene — Being without pro- visions I set off with Capt. Polly to learn the fate of the batteaux. After descending the river thro the woods we came to the fire of her Indian crew who we found had come to for the night, our waiter who was with them not being able to induce them to pass the next point, because the sun had set, & as they said "the sun go to sleep, sleep me!!" — and true enough, we found them, after wading thro the rapids, as they had done, flat on their backs, prepared to sleep, with- out other covering than the wet clothes they wore, and perfectly con- tent, calling the high grass on which they had stretched themselves good bed ! Supplying myself with some bread and cheese and a bottle of spirits I returned to our fire, and found the Col. prepared for a comfortable night's rest in our little valley or cave. Before reaching this spot which is about 7 miles from Point Ellicott, we had passed Barnhart's Island, the end of which is immediately opposite that point, and is about 3 miles in length. It is good land, considerably cleared. The greatest body of water, by a very large proportion, flows on the American side, which is the channel for boats descending — they ascend on the other where the water is shallow and not so rapid, it contains about acres and has a few families upon it. The Long Sault Island is next and close to Barnhart's. The greatest body of water passes on the British side of this island which is the usual channel for boats ascending, not because the rapids are less difficult but because there are towing paths for the worst places. The ascent of this rapid is BOOK ONE 155 truly interesting. The wonderful velocity of the water, the equally wonderful variety of scenery added to the novelty of the tour, and the incidents that must necessarily occur on such an expedition keeps the mind constantly on the alert, and busy with the magnificence or the danger of one's situation. We met with no accidents other than the breaking of our tow lines in places most favorable for us. Should such an accident occur, in the worst of the rapids, there must be inevitable loss. Our little barge did, on passing a point, take a course for the river, and being suddenly bro't up by the tow line was for a second or two bows under, but her stern coming into the same current saved us from a ducking. On the American shore between the Long Sault and Barnhart's Island, which are not more than ^ of a mile apart, there is a remarkable sturgeon fishery. The fish are thrown by the rapid tide and troubled waters in the very narrow eddy of the shore, where the fisherman with a long pole and hook takes them with ease. We saw several little basins, or enclosures, of these fish on the shores, that had been taken in this way. They are said to be much better than the N. River sturgeon. Between Barnhart's Island & Canada shore lies Shiek's Island; a small stream divides it from the maine, which is the channel for ascending & is called Mill Rush. There are also some inconsiderable islands between the heads of Barnhart's and Shiek's Island and the Long Sault. July 22nd. At day break our batteaux reached the spot where we had lodged, and having breakfasted on pork which we cook'd on the ends of sticks in the coals, we again set out to ascend the river. It com- mences raining violently and continues til our arrival at Baxter's Island. There is in this distance several long eddies that render the passage comparatively easy, but we met with serious obstacles from fallen trees which had been undermined by the current & lay out in the river. These we had to remove, as it was impossible to get around them. To the strength and resolution of an Indian guide, Flat Nose Peter in the batteaux, we perhaps were indebted for our success in overcoming these difficulties. Near the head of the island there are some cultivated lands on the N. York side. We stop'd at Mr. Perkins' who appears to be a good farmer. Dr. Goss is next above him. The Long Sault Island is esteemed as one of the most valuable islands in this river; it is about five miles in length and well timbered. It is sup- posed that $i of the river flows on the British side. Osnabruck in Can- ada and Massena in N. York lay opposite this island. What are more particularly called the Long Sault Rapids are on the Canada side, and exceed one mile in length. The batteaux are drawn up by ropes and horses and sometimes by the crews. When a number collect and assist one another, they are called brigades — The Canada shore at 156 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY the rapids is of rock and nearly ioo feet perpendicular height. On the American side, which we ascended, the river is for a fair proportion not to exceed y^ of a mile wide, exceedingly irregular in its course, often turning at right angles, so that you frequently cannot see ahead I mile. The head of this Long Sault Island is cut off by a little stream about 30 yds. wide, leaving a smaller island. There is a boat passage at this end of the island, as also at the end of Baxter's Island im- mediately opposite; these are very square, instead of pointed and ex- ceed 1 mile in width and have the appearance of having been at some time joined. At the head of the Long Sault Island on the Canada side the current is not rapid and the river majestic, about one mile wide. Osnabruck lies at this point. Between Long Sault and Baxter's Island the current is swift, setting from the American to the British shore and thence down the great rapids. The pass between these islands is called Chenille ficarte. Boats sometimes pass down on the British side with safety but it is seldom attempted & never when it can be avoided. The British sent our men & officers when prisoners down this Chenille £carte. About noon we arrived at Baxter's Island and landed on the South side about half a mile from its lower end on a farm of Mr. Wilson's who kindly offers us the choice of any of his cleared land for our encampment, and we pitch upon a handsome spot near his house. The rain continuing very hard, we store our baggage under his shed and discharge the batteaux and our faithful and merry Indian crew who returned in full chaunt to their tribe at St. Regis. In the evening we pitched the wall tent for the men and our stores & the roof of the Marquee. The Col. & myself lodged for the night with our neighbor Wilson, who, after the custom of the country, gave us a bed in the same room with himself and wife and the rest of the household, his son and wife & two or three unmarried sons all sleeping in the same room. 23rd. W'eather clear and pleasant, wind as usual S. W. Engaged in pitching Marquee, clearing ground and preparing camp generally. The evening cool. July 24th. Clear and pleasant, wind S. W. In the afternoon go to Osnabruck passing thro the little channel that cuts off a narrow strip of land from the head of the Long Sault. It has but sufficient water to float a batteaux and is about 100 ft. wide; it widens as you approach the British side & the water is more stagnant than at its entrance, where it is rather rapid. Osnabruck is a small settlement on the bank of the river containing perhaps 50 or 60 houses stretching along the river for about lyi miles. The settlers are mostly Americans who left us during the Revolutionary War, whom we stiled refugees. Indeed the most of this shore is settled by that description of persons. They were the men who served in the 3 regiments raised in the then BOOK ONE 157 colonies commanded by Fraser. There is at Osnabruck a good store of dry goods &c, and the land appears to be well cultivated and the people well off. The proprietors of this store I have since met at Ogdensburgh, flying from their creditors. July 25th. Clear and pleasant, wind as usual when clear, S. W. In the afternoon crossed to the N. York shore and examined its vege- table productions &c. The town of Louisville lies opposite to us and Massena Township lies about one mile East, the course of this island being nearly North and South. There are but few inhabitants in this neighborhood. The Col. and myself visited the log house of a Mr. Wilson who was the first settler in the township and came here about 16 years ago. His daughter, a very pretty and clever girl, told me she was the first girl born in the township and the third child! That is, there were two boys before her! She was 15 years old, had the charge of a family of 10 children and was as much the woman in her appear- ance as in her conduct. In the evening went a deer hunting in a canoe with a light after the Indian manner — but were unsuccessful, the even- ing being too cool. July 26th. Weather clear and pleasant, wind S. W. Engaged mostly in botanical research. Our postrider arrives punctually with letters and papers. 27th July. Sunday. Weather clear and pleasant. Wind very light from S. S. W. Col. Hawkins and myself set out about 9 o'clock for Hamilton to dine with Judge Richards. We crossed at the head of Baxter's Island which was formerly called Le Grand Remo, meaning, according to the Canadian translation, a Great Eddy, to the Canada side, thence passing by Emprie's Island and some five or six others (hereafter described), we reached Ogden's Island 1 and crossed to the N. York side to Hamilton. This village is just recovering from the dis- asters of the war which greatly impeded its improvement. It is about 13 years since first settled and is considered as improving. The dis- tance from our camp at the head of the Long Sault is computed to be 15 miles. On the Canada side the country on the river is hand- somely cleared and settled. A very good road runs along the river thro its entire course, and its borders are well settled. On our side the land on the river is fast clearing but the bulk of population lies some miles back. The land appears to be good & easy of cultivation throughout. 1 This island was named after Judge David A. Ogden, son of Abraham Ogden and older brother of Thomas Ludlow Ogden. He was born in 1770, and lived in Morris- town and Newark, New Jersey. Removed to Hamilton; Judge Court of Common Pleas 1811 to 1815 and 1825 to 1829. Member of Congress 1817 to 1821. Died in 1829 (Ogden Family in America: VV. O. Wheeler, 1907). 158 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY The town of Williamsburgh lies opposite to Hamilton on the Canada side. We traversed over the battle ground of Chrystler's Fields. All appearance of devastation is gone, (houses, fences & farms are new vamped up & bear evidence of a remuneration ample to compensate all the loss sustained). The military eye at once fixes upon the skirt of the neighboring wood, nearly parallel with the shore & the deep but regular ravines that intersect the plain, and rests upon the spot where the struggle raged. An unfortunate train of circumstances rendered this affair an undecided contest. The most candid declare it to have been a drawn battle. Observed along the shores of the islands in the eddy water small heaps of stones regularly collected and piled up pyramidically . These heaps are said to be the places of deposit for the spawn of the bass. We saw these fish about the heaps. When there they will not bite at the usual bait and remove from the stones any little weight that you may drop upon them. We returned from Hamilton at midnight and were about 2>£ hours reaching our camp. The current is swift but even, there are no very bad points to pass on either shore. Bluff Point, about midway between this island and Hamilton, is very prominent and the land high. It narrows the river to less than half a mile and commands the neigh- boring country on the Canada side. It appears to be admirably well calculated for a fortified post, the facility with which it may be sup- plied, the form of the country around it, its command of the river and of the opposite shore, which is rendered complete by the fact that the country is there reduced to a narrow strip by a ... . morass about i^or 2 miles back. All seem to indicate the propriety if not necessity of occupying this point when an enemy lies opposite. During the war the British threw up a small work on the corresponding point, on their side, which was easily razed by a party under Gen'l. Brown, when descending under Wilkinson. July 28th. Clear and pleasant, wind S. W. Mr. Baxter and his son who has an Indian lease of this island, and Mr. Wilson & son, his tenants, called upon us. They are extremely anxious about the fate of this island. They are all firm & patriotic Americans, but inasmuch as this island before the war was considered as belonging to West Canada, they were treated as British subjects. And, being unwilling to bear arms against their countrymen, they were obliged to fly. Mr. Baxter served for a few months as a British serg't. He left them, however, as also his island. Mr. Wilson sent his son to the States & remained him- self to take care of his little farm. He was basely decoyed into acts of charity by the British who construed them to be treasonable, arrested him, confined him in jail for 6 months in the most cruel manner, from which he finally was obliged to escape by flight. They returned to the BOOK ONE 159 island since the war & took possession of their farms. The Canadians are extremely incensed at them and Mr. Baxter has even been ar- rested & confined in jails since the war. He escaped, however, by stratagem and now is permitted to remain quietly in the possession of his island. D. A. Ogden, 1 however, claims title to this island by pur- chase of the McComb right. 2 The McComb right or purchase was 10 townships, ending as is here said. Louisville lies opposite this island & Massena township commences opposite the head of the Long Sault. The St. Regis Indians claim title & give leases. The Chiefs having divided, however, part among the British & part among the Americans, throws their concerns into confusion and, as neither can agree, the rent is neither demanded by or paid to either. In the afternoon we cross and visit Genl. Porter at his camp on Mr. Perkins' farm, about 2 miles below us. Mr. Adams remains some distance down the Long Sault surveying, a duty both tedious and laborious in that rapid water. July 29th. Wind S. W., cloudy, some rain at night. 30th. Cloudy during the day, wind North, very warm. 31st. July. Genl. Porter, Col. Hawkins, Col. Ogilvy, Mr. Sewell and 1 Judge D. A. Ogden and General Porter were under suspicion of planning to pur- chase certain islands which the boundary line was to throw on to the American side. Col. Hawkins, the American Agent, had carelessly interpreted a chance remark of Major Delafield as giving countenance to this charge, who in reply gave the follow- ing statement to a Committee of Congress, which was investigating the suspicion: "District of Columbia: Joseph Delafield having been sworn says that in explana- tion of that part of Col. Hawkins' affidavit which alludes to a conversation had with him respecting certain speculations in which D. A. Ogden, Esq. and Gen. P. B. Porter were interested, he states that during the past summer on descending the St. Lawrence from Ogdensburg to Hamilton in company with Mr. Ogden, much dis- appointment was expressed by him, in having been prevented from proceeding to Detroit, to attend to business of importance there, in which General Porter as well as himself was concerned. "That Mr. Ogden observed at the same time that this business related to a purchase of lands made by him; and in which General Porter was the proprietor of one share. That he understood the speculation to have been a purchase by Mr. Ogden of the Indian reservations in the Holland Company's tract: and not to have any relation whatever to his purchase of the islands in the St. Lawrence — That he does not recol- lect having had any conversation with Mr Gouverneur Ogden upon these subjects; nor any other than the conversation now described with Mr. D. A. Ogden. . . ." (Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope II, Folder 3). 1 "The Macomb right" is defined by David A. Ogden, in a deposition before a Committee of Congress on April 10, 1818 (text: National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI & VII, Envelope II, Folder 3) as "the interests which Alexander Macomb .... had of, in and to certain islands situated in the river St. Laurence and Lake Ontario .... those which shall be deemed upon the running of the line between Great Britain and the United States .... to fall within the limits of the United States." The deposition gives very specific descriptions of these islands, which David and Thomas L. Ogden had purchased from Alexander Macomb. 160 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY myself set out about 1 1 o'clock a. m. to spend the day with Mr. D. A. Ogden at his island, and to meet the President 1 who had arrived there that morning. We reached Mr. Ogden's about 6 o'clock and spent the evening at his table. Cross to Hamilton to sleep. The Prest. had cross'd thro Chataga from Platsburgh & has ordered a road cut to the 4 corners. August 1st. Breakfast at Judge Ogden's with the President who is accompanied by Gen'l. Brown 2 and some of his staff. The Prest. ex- amines the island and neighboring country for military views. Point Iroquois, about 3 miles above Hamilton, is recommended by Gen'l. Brown and others as the most advantageous position to fortify. Col. Hawkins recommends Bluff Point, below 6 miles. The Prest. is anxious to examine both but Gen'l. Brown's arrangements for his progress on the road prevents his returning to Bluff Point. After breakfast the Presi- dent sets out for Ogdensburgh, and our party accompanies him. Dine with Mr. Parish and spend the night. The President, in the evening, proceeds on to Prossie & Antwerp, Mr. Parish's establishment, and is escorted by the citizens of Ogdensburgh. Was received by them also in a handsome manner. Mr. Parish entertains him in good stile as also did Mr. Ogden. Mr. Hasbrouck delivers an address, neat & manly. Wind S. W., clear and pleasant. The Prest. went about l /t the way from Hamilton in Gen'l. Porter's barge to examine Point Iroquois & then mounted his horse. 2nd August. Return from Mr. Parish's at Ogdensburgh to our camp in Gen'l. Porter's barge. Stop at Hamilton and dine with Judge Ogden. Genl. Porter and Col. Hawkins severally had interviews with the President relative to the questions which arose some time ago as to the performance of their respective duties as Commissioner and Agent. On the 1st instant at Hamilton the President stated in amount that it was of national importance that the gentlemen should concur: that the British Gov't, ought to have appointed an Agent; not having done so, it became expedient that as little difficulty as circumstances would admit of should be made by the U. S.; and that, altho' Col. Hawkins had done perfectly right in remonstrating to the Govt, as he had done, and was also justified in the grounds he had taken, by former prece- 1 President Monroe. Joseph Delafield had received a letter from his mother, dated July 20, 181 7, saying: "We see by the papers that the President in his route will visit St. Regis. Your elegant Marquee will no doubt be honored on this occasion." (Dela- field Mss. at Montgomery Place). In his message of December, 181 7, Monroe said: "Our own people are the barrier on the lakes." (Callahan: Neutrality of the American Lakes, p. 87). 2 General Brown — Major General Jacob Brown on June 19, 181 7, from Brownville, directed all officers to give every aid to the Commission (Journal of July 24, 1822 p. 16). BOOK ONE 161 dent, still he advised that the Commissioners should proceed and that he, the Agent, should guard the interests of the U. S. whenever he might think them at risk; that should he require any particular surveys, they were to be had thro the surveyor of the Board if practicable; if not, by the assistance of as many surveyors as he might want. That should the Agent except to any proceedings of the Board, he was always at liberty to enter his protest, which should be filed. And that he, the President, on his return to the capitol, would lodge a letter in the Department of State approving of the Agent's conduct in this re- spect, and explanatory of the arrangement. Reach our camp in the evening and Genl. Porter goes on to Perkins'. . . . 5th. Cloudy and some rain, wind very high from the S. W. Messers. Fine & Atwater spend the day & night with us in camp. Aug 6th. Cloudy but no rain, wind strong from the S. W. Our friends leave us in the morning. We discharge our waiter Matthew for disorderly and insolent conduct and put him on board batteaux for Montreal. Afternoon, the islanders come in for a rifle match. Aug. 7th. Steady rain, wind Easterly, continues to rain thro the night. Temperature moderate. Aug. 8th. . . . The Board meets at Col. Ogilvy's quarters at Shoikis at his request; he gives notice of his intention to proceed a few miles up the river and they adjourn. Genl. Porter, Mr. Adams & Majr. Fraser visit our quarters on their return Aug. nth. ... Go to Gen'l. Porter's (amp after breakfast, copy proceedings of the Board and compare the copies furnished by the Asst. Secy, preparatory to entering them of record on Agent's Journal. Dine with the Genl. & return in the afternoon. Cloudy. . . . 14th. Majr. Fraser & myself leave our camp in the morning for St. Regis, by the way of Cornwall, pass to Stonelmrner's tavern, at the head of the Long Sault Great Shoot, and there take a wagon: stop at Col. Ogilvy's quarters at the mills on the rapid: stop at Mr. Woods' at Cornwall. Chief Justice Powell had but then adjourned his court; declined dining with our friends at Cornwall, proceed to Mr. McDon- ald's and reach St. Regis at twilight: very warm and clear, wind S. W. Find the village much deserted and the little paths winding thro the grass among houses, tolerably regular in their position, gave it a novel as well as pretty appearance. Their retentive memories at once an- nounced "Gara give ne gen!" which was only to be satisfactorily re- warded by a dram of rum. Aug. 15. Crossed after breakfast to Calquhoun's and returned to our camp by the same route I had left it on the day before. The rapids of the Long Sault are ascended by the means of towing paths. Two horses will draw up a batteaux. Before these paths were con- 1 62 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY structed many lives were annually lost in this rapid. A line was often made fast to the boat's crew, who would draw her up but sometimes an unlucky sheer would set the boat from the shore, when their strength would be insufficient to hold her, and they are drawn over the rapids beyond the reach of human assistance & the hope of recovery. Since the towing paths have been constructed, but one accident of this kind has occured; an unfortunate crew, somewhat drunk, neglect- ing to manage the boat, permitted her to sheer out, when, horses & all were plunged over the rapids. The horses were recovered below the mill. The two nearest residents, Stoneburner & Brownwell, at present work this path. It is government land, however, and any per- son is at liberty to use the path. As yet, no opposition has taken place. The government will not dispose of the pass. The toll for Canadian boats is i.oodll., for American 1.50, and more if laden. Before day break a heavy shower, morning cloudy and very warm, afternoon cloudy, wind S. W. Col. Ogilvy moves his camp about 10 miles from his position at Sheikis to . . . Island. Aug 1 6th. Clear and warm, light breeze from S. W. Mr. Wood and Judge Sheik visit us from Cornwall; accompany them to Genl. Porter's camp where we dine, with Col. Ogilvy &c, return in the evening and share our buffaloe robes with our friends. The Board met at Genl. Porter's Marquee. Aug 17th. Sunday. Warm, cloudy, wind strong from S. W. Rains in the night. Aug. 1 8th. Clear, wind S. W. Genl. Porter moves his camp and joins it to ours on Baxter's Island. 19th Aug. Left our camp on Baxter's Island in the morning, in company with Genl. Porter, for Niagara. Cross'd to Osnabruck, pro- ceeded to Prescott & lodged at Ogdensburgh at night, spending the evening with the Messrs. Parish. 20th. Embark on board steam boat Ontario, and reach Sackett's Harbor in the evening. Lodge on board. Wind throughout the day N. E. 2 1 st. Strong wind from W. S. W. Attempt to get out of Sackett's Harbor in the steam boat, run about 7 miles under the lee of an island when we are obliged to return on account of high wind. Meet Genl. Scott 1 at the harbor, call on Col. Brady 2 Commdg. Offr., Col. Leaven- worth 3 &c, are detained all day, dined at McFarland's. Sun down 1 General Winfield Scott, born in Virginia June 13, 1786. One of the most distin- guished of American Army officers. 2 Colonel Hugh Brady, see Bk. X. 3 Colonel Henry Leavenworth, was born at New Haven Dec. 10, 1783. He became BOOK ONE 163 and wind continues to blow very hard. Keeper of Mansion House assaults Majr. Biddle. 1 Aug 2 2d. Get under way early in the morning, wind still very fresh from the S. W. A heavy gale comes on when about 20 miles from harbor and Captain Mallaby puts about with an intention to return to port, but is dissuaded by the passengers. Continue our course and reach Oswego in the evening. The inhabitants having kindly made fires on the two points forming the harbor as beacons &c. Is a small village and growing. The salt from Onondaga works is bro't to this place. Aug 23d. Heavy storm of rain and wind from N. E., E. N. E. & N. W.: get under way early in the morning, heavy sea, and steam boat laboring much, her engine not being of sufficient power for her bulk & the wind too strong to cam' sail. Reach Sodus Harbor and enter the same about 1 1 o'clock, having cross'd the bar with great peril but safely. Bar about 7 ft. water. Sea running much higher. Harbor is very secure and quiet, extending itself into the maine and covered by narrow necks of land. Village small, not much increase, was burnt during the war. Night — and storm continues: had we have kept on our course must have beached the boat to save our lives. Aug 24th. Lay in Sodus or Troupville Bay, waiting the fall of the wind and sea, until 10 o'clock at night, when Capt. Mallaby gets under way: the day clear and weather moderating until evening when it became pleasant. Aug 25th. Enter the Genessee River about 8 o'clock in the morning, having made a large offing in the lake during the night. The mouth of this river has a bar and narrow channel. While steam boat delivers, ride to Rochester 7 miles up the river. A most remarkable instance of rapid growth & population, it contains probably 1500 souls, 1200 of which have certainly settled there within the two last years. A very busy & interesting village, many handsome houses, and everything has the show of style & dash. The upper Gennessee Fall opposite Rochester is 90 feet. The lower fall about 3 miles below, 80 ft. but more picturesque, being more broken and irregular. Opposite the lower fall on the East shore is Carthage, a village risen within the pres- ent year & it is supposed will rival Rochester. Opposite Carthage & a a lawyer, was commissioned a captain in the War of 18 12. He fought at Niagara and was brevetted a Brigadier General in 1824. Amongst other posts he founded Leaven- worth, Kansas. 1 Major Thomas Biddle, born November 21, 1790. He was wounded in 1814 in the Battle of Lundy's Lane and became aid to General Izard. Killed in a duel at St. Louis in 1831. 164 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY little below is a settlement called Hanford's Landing, which is perhaps the most promising site on account of its being the proper head of navigable water and a good landing. Banks of the river 200 ft., depth of river 30 ft. Get under way from mouth of the river at 2 o'clock p. m. Wind W. S. W. Aug. 26. About 8 o'clock a. m. are off the Niagara River. Fort Niagara, on the point on the American shore, & a large stone barracks built by the French and now refitting, first attract the attention. Fort Niagara appears, from the river, but a ruin and the encroachments of the rapid waters endanger the stone barracks. Preparations are making for repairs and a heavy wall which is contemplated round the point is as necessary as it will be ornamental. On the opposite shore is a work erected by the British since the war, consisting of a tower surrounded by fortified lines. Between this point and Fort George is Newark. This town has not yet risen from its ashes. Those who have rebuilt have gone rather further from the river than before. From Fort George to Queenstown are to be seen the remains of numerous little batteries on both shores. The current for this distance is rapid but the eddies & great depth make it a good navigation. Louistown on our side lies opposite Queenstown. Here is the head of navigation. Immediately above you enter the chasm between the mountains where the waters are in uproar. From the mouth of the river to Louistown is 7 miles and from thence to Schlosser above the Falls 7 miles, which is the portage. 8000 blls. of salt has been transported across this road during the sum- mer. It is carried from Schlosser to Black Rock in batteaux & thence shipped to the west across the lakes. Messrs. Barton & Porter are the principals in this trade &c. We proceed to Judge Porter's 1 at the Falls. 2 On the road and about 3 miles distant is the first glance that the traveler gets at this stupendous sight. It is here beautifully grand, but the partial view thro the woods & rocks is alone a gratification to the eye, something being left for fancy. On arriving at Judge Porter's, set out for a nearer view of the Falls. His house is above the Falls and about 5 minutes walk from them. You emerge from the woods upon the side of the Fall, and have at once an entire view from this position. I was not disposed to depart, until my friends on the ladder were calling me to other scenes. Below the Fall I had an increased sensation of awe. 1 Judge Augustus Porter, son of Joshua Porter, was born Salisbury, Conn. June 18, 1769. Moved to Canandigua about 1790 where his brother, Peter Buel Porter, a boy of 12, came to live with him. In 1806 they moved to Niagara and formed the firm Porter Barton & Co., doing a large shipping business: Judge of the Court of Common Pleas in 1808. He died in 1849. 2 Niagara Falls. BOOK ONE 165 You here feel the mighty power of the waters, and may indulge in every emotion that wonder, gratitude & delight can create. Even here, however, the eye fixes on the opposite Falls and shore, whose far more extensive and terrible grandeur invites a nearer view. Having gone so near the Fall as to be wet thro by the spray, we ascended the ladder to dry ourselves &c. Iris Island (commonly called Goat Island) divides the Falls leaving ^ or more on the British side. On the American side the water has a yellow tinge owing to the streams that empty their waters colored by vegetable putrefactions &c. into it. On the British side the pure water of the lake shows its beautiful green transparent color, adding much to the beauty of the Falls. Iris Island contains 60 acres of very fine land and is about \£ of a mile wide at its termination on the Fall. Judge Porter is now endeavoring to connect it to the main by a bridge & if he succeeds, intends building a public house for the entertainment of travelers & clear & ornament the island &c. There is about 4 ft. of water near the head of the island, where he proposes to have the bridge. From the head of the rapids to the Fall, the descent is said to be 60 ft. Below the Fall, and near it, no person has as yet been able to fathom. Where the ferry crosses a little way down it is 300 ft. deep. The Falls are computed to be 160 ft. The whole descent from Lake Erie to Ontario 330 ft. and from Ontario to Montreal 200 ft. descent. Aug. 27th. Spend the morning about the Falls and endeavor to get on the Iris or Goat Island, but are disappointed in not finding the boat. Afternoon go to Schlosser Landing, near Portage Road. See the remains of an old French fort used to protect this carrying place, also the contemplated steam boat landing & new site for ware houses. Judge Porter has on the rapids grist, saw, bark, carding and other mills. One half mile on the shore & each side of Iris Island afford as eligible mill seats as can be found. This settlement is called Man- chester by some, by others Niagara, by others Schlosser. Aug. 28th. Leave Judge Porter's after breakfast and ride to Black Rock to dine. It is 20 miles. Country not much improved and road bad: a turnpike contemplated. Pass Tonnawanda Creek in a scow. Bridge carried away by the ice. A considerable stream to be used by the canal. Skejockatie Creek near Black Rock famous for the gallant defence made by Majr. Miller. Black Rock but a small settlement, was burned during the War. Genl. Porter has an elegant new house here, and himself and Barton & Co. are principal proprietors; they expect ultimately to rival Buffalo on account of their harbor. The objection to Buffalo is the bar and the smallness of the Creek, to Black Rock the rapid current that requires ten yoke of oxen to draw up a schoonr. Aug. 29th. Accompany Genl. Porter to Buffalo, a pretty village, 1 66 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY much increased since it was burned. Visit the court house, much gratified on finding there my classmate Chaplin. He was addressing a jury on my entrance; also Olmstead was there. Took my college friends to dine with me at Pomeroy's and returned in the afternoon to Black Rock, stopping at Sand Town, where still remain some of the huts built by Genl. Izard's 1 army in the Campaign of 1814. Aug. 30th. Spend at Black Rock. Dine with Mr. Thompson. 10 dlls. an acre is considered a fair price for land about Black Rock. The State has laid out a town between this and Buffalo. Aug. 31st. Remain at Black Rock, my college friends from Buffalo dine with me & Genl. Porter has many visitors from the neighborhood. Very warm. Sepr. 1 st. Cross the ferry at Black Rock to the Canada side, where is a small settlement called Waterloo; spend most of the day in roving about the ruins of Fort Erie and the British batteries in front, which can be readily traced from the fort thro the woods by the shot holes thro' and about the trees. In the evening take a seat with Judge Miller in his wagon, for the Falls and ride 2 miles beyond Palmer's, he being full of company returning from the Falls: day warm & clear. Sepr. 2d. Reach Forsyth's at the Falls to breakfast: find his house uncomfortably full. Two miles above passed the battle ground of Chippawa Sheets or Chippawa Creek: is 150 yards wide or more, & not fordable. The forts here are still kept up & Garrison village ap- pears to be improving. The land on this side is of clay soil and inferior to the other side: banks are higher, and particularly at the Falls. After breakfast descend the ladder & clamber along the rocks to the foot of the Falls. The current of air setting the spray to the west bank, we were wet thro & obscured in its rain, before we were under the sheet of falling water. Travellers go a few feet under, but this morning it was impracticable. Returning we find an easier path which is close along the bank instead of the shore: ascend the ladder & go to the Table Rock which is the most gratifying view. Much is added to its grandeur by the rapids above. The view from the corresponding point on the American shore has pleased me most. You there admire the vast beauties & sublimity of the scene immediately contiguous, and are at leisure to fix your attention upon the still more vast & grand sublimity of the Fall upon the British side. When on the Table Rock, or below on the British side, the American Fall hardly attracts the at- tention, and you are almost entirely employed with the bustling con- fusion & uproar of the nearest fall, so that to me much of its beauty 1 General George Izard, born in South Carolina in 1 777, was a distinguished officer in the American Army. BOOK ONE 167 was at this point unobserved, and to my fellow travellers I believe the whole of it. Before reaching the ladder on the Canada side you have to descend a bank or hill of 80 ft. or more; then the ladder, after walking over a plain of 5 or 600 ft. The ladder is perfectly safe altho nearly perpendicular, and about 50 ft. long. On the American side your first descent is on a very strong ladder 80 or go ft. & rather more perpendicular than the other, & then down a bank of 100 or more ft. It is by far the easiest descent. The way to the Table Rock was very wet and muddy thro swamps &c. constantly kept supplied by the spray. Not being able to get comfortable quarters at Forsyth's, we leave in the afternoon and dine at Queenstown, passing the Lunday's Lane, Queenstown Heights &c. After dinner go to Newark, now called Niagara, passing Fort George which is contiguous. On the point or at the mouth of the river a strong work is erecting of which \^ is complete. Is about a mile from Fort Niagara. A garrison here of about 500 men. Find American steam boat at Lewistown and British boat at Niagara. Very warm. Sepr. 3d. Remain at Newark or Niagara; extremely warm. The troops at present here, are of the 70th Regt. (of Jamaica), considered one of the best for police discipline in His Majesty's service. Officers spend much of their time in their mess room, are well established; have a mess dinner set &c. complete, cost 3000^, presented to the Reg't in Jamaica by the islanders. Genl. Withington reviews the troops — look well. Afternoon cross to Fort Niagara, find Capt. Thompson there with whom I stay the night. The fort at present undergoing re- pairs and in great confusion of course. The wall building on the lake side is 14 ft. thick at its base: will be reduced to 4 ft. at top. The bank is about 40 ft. high. The wall is sunk to the bed of the lake. The old mess house, built a century ago by the French for a store house & protection, is a very strong building and is fitting up for officers' quar- ters. It was left in ruins by the enemy when they abandoned the fort. The fire places, roof &c. being so mutilated as to be useless. The British constructed bomb proof quarters under the South curtain of the fort when in possession, expecting a siege, which remain entire. This is said to be the warmest day experienced here this summer. Sepr. 4th. After breakfast return from the fort to Newark: indebted to Capt. Thompson for his civilities. Leave Newark for Queenstown and on arriving there find the steam boat underway — cross and learn that she intends waiting for us at the fort. Dine with Mr. Barton who gives me finer fruit, i. e. plums & peaches, than are usually found in New York, more particularly plums, which thrive well on this frontier. Sepr. 5th. Not finding Gen'l. Porter at Lewistown, agreeably to 168 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY former arrangement, set out for the Falls to meet him, and find him suffering from an attack of intermittent fever & unable to proceed. Augs. Porter 1 whom I met on the round had been dispatched to ac- quaint me of this fact. Take leave of the Gen'l. & his brother's family and proceed to the steam boat off Young's Town (a new settlement one mile above Fort Niagara) and get underway from the mouth of the river about 5 o'clock p.m.: the day clear and warm, wind W.S.W. The Niagara frontier has recovered from the disasters of the war. Settlers do not as yet take up their residence here with the same eager- ness as farther West. The climate of Niagara is not very severe. Snow very seldom lies more than 6 weeks on the straits, and the flourishing peach trees indicate the fact of its being much milder than the lake or river below. The proprietors of houses &c. have mostly rebuilt since the war, & only wait for the compensation they expect from the Govt., to make larger improvements. Their opposite neighbors still feel bitter toward many of the borderers, and exchange no civilities. The Falls of Niagara were accurately measured by order of Mr. Vaudreuil, Governor General of Canada, and found to be 26 fathoms perpendicular height. Vaudreuil was Governor General in 17 14. This measurement agrees very near with that of the present day. Father Hennepin 2 writes it 100 fathoms. The mountain is not so high. 1 Augustus Seymour Porter; younger son of General Peter Buel Porter, was born in 1798 and in 1838 became a United States senator. 2 Father Louis Hennepin was sent to Canada in 1673 and first visited Niagara Falls in 1678. BOOK TWO September 6, 1817 to June 26, 1818 181 7 — Sepr. 6th. Reach the mouth of the Genessee River at 8 o'clock a.m. having left Niagara on the preceeding evening. The steam boat proceeds up the river five miles to Carthage to take in freight. This is a settlement of one year's growth, and great spirit is evinced in the proprietors who are striving to rival Rochester. They build hand- some houses, but the village proprietors are as yet the sole builders, with the exception of some mechanics in their employ. At 2 o'clock p.m. leave the Genessee River and are ofTSodus Harbor by dark: send in a boat for the passengers, and keep on our voyage. From Niagara to Genessee is called 85 miles, from Genessee to Sodus 30 miles. Sepr. 7th. Arrive at Oswego 9 o'clock a.m. Are detained a short time for freight and proceed, the day pleasant and wind in our favor. Arrive at Sacket's Harbor in the afternoon. Wait upon Col. Leaven- worth, and leave my blank duplicate receipts for one wall and one common tent furnished by his politeness, upon my requisition: distance from Oswego to Sacket's Harbor 50 miles. Sepr. 8th. Leave Sacket's Harbor at 6 o'clock a.m. and reach Ogdensburgh about 8 in the evening, the distance is computed to be 90 miles: go to Wright's Tavern, said to be the best, but poor indeed, and the landlord found fault with my fellow travellers. Gravel Point forms one side of the entrance of the river from Lake Ontario: de- scending about 15 miles you come to the first of the Thousand Islands: they are all shapes & sizes and with the exception of the very few large ones are barren rocks, showing a few pine trees on their surface. They form nevertheless a scenery picturesque beyond ordinary conception. Are said to exceed 1000 in number: Comde. Owen in his charts lays down many less. To survey them with the same accuracy as has been given to the first of our work will require some years. They extend 20 miles down the river. Brockville is a pretty village upon the Canada side, 12 miles above Ogdensburgh. Morristown, on our side, is nearly opposite & in its infancy. Ogdensburgh is a very pretty village, but just now seems to lag. Mr. Parish & Judge Ford have done very much, and it is now their object to have others do the like. Sepr. 9th. Mr. G. Parish orders my baggage to his house in my absence, which I had declined doing myself, on account of the strangers 170 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY whom he was then entertaining with his wonted hospitality. Mr. Pitcairn, Count Quenette & son, Mr. & Mrs. Bridgewater & sister & myself formed the party at his house. We had descended the river to- gether. Mr. Pitcairn a gentleman in & of all countries, Mr. & Mrs. Bridgewater, prejudiced but good-natured English folks, Count Quen- ette, an exiled Frenchman, our host, an adopted American &myself the more American under existing circumstances, passed a few days together most pleasantly, altho frequently at odds. Sepr. ioth. Spent at Ogdensburgh with Mr. Parish. Weather warm and clear. . . . Sepr. 1 2th. Left Mr. Parish in comp. with Judge Ogden & Mr. and Mrs. Bridgewater, and arrived at the Judge's late in the evening: descended in a batteaux. Wind during afternoon from N.E. and cool. Sepr. 13th. Clear and cool, a sharp frost this morning. Wind N.E. Leave the Judge's after breakfast for our camp with Mr. G. Ogden. On reaching Genl. Porter's camp, below Bluff Point, learn that Col. Hawkins has proceeded up the river and was at Louch's, 4 miles above. After a few hours with Majr. H., set out for Louch's & meet our barge on its way for me. Spend the night with the Col. at Louch's. Sepr. 14th. Sharp frost this morning. Wind N.E. Col. Hawkins & self visit lower camp, he on his way to Montreal. He continues his route in the afternoon & I return to Louch's with Mr. Adams, who leaves me in the evening. Mr. Adams has his work complete above Impay's Island, including mapping. The British party have their camp just below Hamilton on the Canada shore & their stations set thus far, but their work not completely up. An astronomer is with them to observe at St. Regis — and rumors exist of the appointment of an Agent on the British side. 1 Sepr. 15th. Cloudy and raw chilling weather, wind N.E. Explore the neighboring country. Louch's is in the town of Williamsburgh, in which there is no principal settlement. Bluff Point on our shore, has a corresponding point on the British, but it is very low: there is on it the remains of a pitiful work demolished by Gen'l. Brown's advance, when the army descended in 18 14. About one mile (or rather over) from the river is a swamp. It commences 1 mile above Louch's and extends a distance of 1 mile down. It has been represented as impassable; this is not true. There is a road across it on Louch's land and no great difficulty in making them elsewhere. It varies in width from X t0 K of a mile. This part of the province is intersected by frequent deep ravines, mostly dry. The soil is good, a black soil & clay bottom pre- ^ohn Hale was appointed British Agent on November 21, 181 7 (Journal of July 24, 1822, p. 24). BOOK TWO 171 vails. Maple, elm & pine are its woods. Afternoon stormy, a steady rain with easterly winds. Louch has one island of 100 acres passing by his name often called "Church Island" and two others, one of 20 and one of 25 acres, under Indian title. The former is opposite the Williamsburgh Lutheran Church, the latter opposite Messrs. Merkoley & Hanes', and are known by the Indian name of Nesgertoha or Nut Islands. Louch has a lease from the St. Regis Chiefs in 1806 when they were united, and another lease of 181 7 from the British Chiefs who have seceded, but is uneasy about his right of property or title. Sepr. 1 6th. Weather wet, heavy mist throughout the day. Wind S. W. Williamsburgh is laid out like other townships in Canada, into con- cessions, that is, a township is divided by 9 roads parallel with river, forming as many lots called concessions. This part of Canada has been settled about 30 years, its improvement slow. Soil rich loom & clay bottom. In the afternoon take canoe & my blankets and proceed to lower camp to remain until Col. Hawkins returns from Montreal. Afternoon, showers. Louch's tavern very indiff- erent, dirty & uncomfortable. He a civil man & independent farmer. Sepr. 17th. Cloudy, wind W.S.W. Col. Ogilvy, Dr. Tiarks 1 (as- tronomer) & Mr. Nicoll visit us in camp. At night rain. Sepr. 1 8th. Clear weather, high winds during the morning from the N.W., evening clear and pleasant. Mr. Adams completes his survey to Bluff Point. Sepr. 19th. Heavy fog on the river until 8 o'clock, is carried off to the S.W. when day becomes clear and pleasant. Wind X.E. In the after- noon accompany Mr. Adams to Bluff Point, examining it as a military position. This point is in the town of Louisville, and about 2*^ miles from the line of Madrid Township. It is very prominent and has command down the river as far as the range of ordinance. Up the river it has the 1 Johann Ludwig Tiarks was an astronomer who had been associated with Thomas Barclay when he was Commissioner under the V Article of the Treaty of Ghent. On August 25, 1 81 7, Barclay had notified the Commissioners Porter and Ogilvy, under the VI and VII Articles, that "Dr. Tiarks .... is to go to St. Regis for the purpose of ascertaining the 45th degree of North Latitude" (Journal Sept. 24, 181 7). The point where this 45th degree strikes the river Iroquois or Cataraguy was to be the beginning of the line westward to Lake Superior (Art. VI of Treaty of Ghent). For Andrew Elli- cott's observations relative to the determination of this intersection, see National Arch- ives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope IV, Folder 1 which contains also a number of other documents, of strictly scientific interest, relative to this point, which obviously concerned the Commissions under Art. V and those under Arts. VI & VII. 172 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY like command, but its great advantages I consider much impaired by the fact that an island lies within its bearing up the river and between y^ and y^ mile distant. The river's depth is greatest toward the American side. On the British side it is very shoal and rapid, so that batteaux pass with diffi- culty and delay. Bluff Point is, on the river, 1 1 y^ feet high. It then rises gradually to about 27 ft. which is the highest elevation and about 150 ft. from the shore. The formation of this point is singularly adapted for defense as well as offense. From its highest ground there is a gradual descent to the rear and to the right and left, terminating in either di- rection in a swamp, distance say 280 yds. After passing this swamp which is half a mile wide you again come to dry land, but it is low and level for miles, nor is there any high land in this part of the country. Sepr. 20th. Weather clear and pleasant in the morning, at noon wind strong from the S.W. and cloudy. Genl. Porter arrives from Niagara recovered in health. Rain in the afternoon. After breakfast leave camp with Mr. Adams, and land opposite Bluff Point to explore the Canada side and interior. About half a mile above this point, on this side corresponding to Bluff Point (on which is the trace of a little work), is a ravine, at its termination on the river, 20 ft. deep. This ravine inclines suddenly to the N.E. and loses itself in a swamp and woods in rear of the point, and about y^ of a mile distant. For a long distance this swamp extends itself, and cannot be passed by the foot traveller except by one of the roads that I found open thro it. Heavy guns on Bluff Point would command the Canada shore to the swamp, and oblige an enemy to extend their route thro the interior at great expense in roads &c. The command of the river is complete, and of the land as much so as art could have contrived it. The Canada shore at the point is 4 ft. high, and ascends perhaps to 7. Sepr. 21. Morning clear and pleasant, Wind N.E., cool at sunrise, at noon mild, but cloudy. Col. Ogilvy, Messrs. Sewell and Tiarks visit Genl. Porter. A meeting of the Board is arranged for Tuesday the 23d. In the evening have a fine view of the heavens, and the neighboring settlers who visited the camp are delighted with a view thro the as- tronomical telescopes. Sepr. 2 2d. Morning cloudy, damp and cold, clears off about 8 o'clock. Mr. Adams sets off for a week's tour of duty. At noon cloudy and in the afternoon it begins to rain and continues throughout the night. Temperature moderate, wind N.E. Sepr. 23d. Damp, gloomy day, with a little rain, wind N.E. Genl. Porter too unwell to attend meeting of the Board. In the evening rain, Tempe. moderate. Sepr. 24th. Before day break a very heavy gale, accompanied with BOOK TWO 173 much rain from the S.W. Ceases raining by 8 o'clock a.m., but wind continues a gale. Cross the river with Genl. Porter & Secry. & proceed with them to Col. Ogilvy's camp below the Rapids Plat, about 9 miles from our camp. Dine with Col. Ogilvy and return as far as Louch's. The Board met at the British camp. Heavy clouds threatening rain through the day, evening clear and pleasant. Sepr. 25th. Clear and strong wind from the S.W. Leave Louch's for the camp, stop with Mr. Adams who is unable to make progress on account of the high wind. Col. Ogilvy and Mr. Tiarks stop at the camp on their way to St. Regis and take with them our repeating circle & barometer. Mr. Tiarks is the astronomer sent on for the purpose of determining the latitude of that place. Join the deer hunt in a canoe. Mr. Polly and his hound drive a buck to the river but he eludes us. This Mr. Polly is a remarkable shot with a rifle. He was Sergt. under Forsyth and once saved his captain's life (Capt. Lidell) by shooting an Indian who was stealing behind the captain, firing betwixt the arm and body of the Capt. and thus thro the body of the Indian! He gave us proof of wonderful skill with the rifle. Cool during the day & heavy clouds overhead, evening clear. . . . Sepr. 27th. Genl. Porter, Majr. Fraser, Mr. Bird & myself set out (the three latter on foot) to search for a proper spot for the next en- campment near Hamilton. After scrambling over logs and thro the mud for about S}4 rniles we came to Bryce's Point, which we conclude upon as most eligible. We dine upon a piece of rusty pork the Gen'l. had been provident enough to bring in a pr. of saddle bags, and some red squirrels shot on the road. 1 We commence our return by the same route — and have the good fortune to fall in with Adams in his barge about 1^4 rniles from the camp, who affords a most seasonable relief. Wind S.W. high and cool. Sepr. 28th. High wind from the S.W. and cloudy. Strike our tents & prepare to move. Commences raining, reach our encamping ground in the afternoon. Pitch some of the tents. Cold night. Sepr. 29th. Leave the camp for Louch's preparatory to moving up our establishment to the General's. Meet our barge coming for me, having returned from Montreal, without the Col. (Hawkins) who had gone to Quebec. In the afternoon dispatch the barge with a load of camp equipage to Genl. Porter's camp, with instructions to be with me early in the morning. In the morning high winds from the S.W., afternoon cloudy and no wind. Cold in the morning. Sepr. 30th. Employ Louch's batteaux and move our establishment to Bryce's Point at the head of Dry Island and about 1 y^ miles below 1 A footnote adds: "Roast Pork and Fraser's Cherry Bounce." 174 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Hamilton: spend the day pitching Marquee &c. High wind, S.W. Octr. i st. Cold, frosty morning, high winds. Octr. 2nd. Clear, pleasant day but cool. Louis goes to St. Regis: spend evening at Judge Ogden's. Visit British camp in the afternoon. Octr. 3d. Clear, pleasant day. Judge Ogden, Mr. Fine &c. dine & spend day with us. Octr. 4th. Clear and pleasant, wind S.W. Atmosphere becomes thick and smoky denoting Indian Summer. Spend evening at Judge Ogden's. Octr. 5th. Col. Hawkins returns from Quebec. Weather cloudy, wind S.W. Judge Ogden & family, Col. Ogilvy & Secy &c. dine in camp. Afternoon rain & continues thro the night. Take the ladies home in the evening to Ogden's Island, and the rain having rendered the banks slippery have some difficulty & much sport in making a safe ascent & landing. Octr. 6th. Cloudy morning, temperature moderate, day becomes clear and pleasant. Spend the evening at British camp. Rains in the evening, and storm continues thro the night. Wind S.W. Col. Ogilvy entertains the party of yesterday in his camp on Ogden's Island. Octr. 7. Steady rain, wind S.W. Storm increases, and violent gales from the N.W. make it necessary that we brace anew the Marquees &c, to preserve them from blowing away. Storm continues thro the night, wind shifts again to S.W. Octr. 8th. Rain ceases, but the wind continues high and blustering, mostly from the N.W. At night rain commences, and continues thro the night. Mr. Adams not enabled to make much progress, but busily engaged adjusting stations &c. The neighboring woods show, by their hues, the last verge of Autumn; a change produced since the 5th., more rapid than observed by myself at any Fall heretofore. . . . October 10th. Cold, cloudy, disagreeable morning, high wind from S.W., afternoon more moderate and pleasant. Cross to the Canada shore, find at Hane's Tavern (a miserable hole) Mart. Hoff- man waiting for a batteaux to descend the river. Take him with me to camp to spend the night. Col. Hawkins goes to Brockville, in the Canada stage, a waggon without any springs whatever, covered with a black painted canvass cloth, looking like a hearse, for riding in which you pay 12^ cents per mile. October 10th. Foggy, damp and cold morning, clears off about 9 o'clock with high winds from W. to W.S.W. The week past has been extremely unpleasant weather, causing us to remain pretty constantly by our fire in the woods, using our Marquees only for sleeping. A re- treat made very comfortable by pitching the roof of a Marquee, and its wall on the side the wind may come from, forming at once a mess room, office, &c. BOOK TWO 175 Sunday, Octr. 12th. Clear and more moderate temperature than during the past week, but high wind from the S.W. Remain in camp. In the evening a very remarkable thunder storm comes on from the W.N.W. and lasts for two hours. It was remarkable because the wind had been blowing a gale throughout the day from the S.W. The lightning was vivid and frequent. Monday, October 13th. Violent gales of wind from the N.W., temperature moderate. Weather changing every half hour, sometimes a bright sun & sometimes the threatening of a heavy storm of both wind & rain. Distant heavy thunder both in the morning and after- noon. Mr. Adams not enabled to set his theodolite but in the lee of islands on account of the high winds. Tuesday, Octr. 14. Clear and pleasant morning, wind light from the S.W. The Board sits at Gen'l. Porter's Marquee. Comr. Ogilvy reports that his surveyor was about finishing his work as high as the White House where they should break off. Mr. Adams is instructed to proceed to that point with his survey as soon as practicable. The Board adjourns to hold their next meeting at St. Regis (where Mr. Tiarks is now observing). . . . preparatory to their adjourning over for the season. In the afternoon weather becomes cloudy and wind rises; but has been a good day for the survey. Col. Hawkins returns from Prescott. Wednesday, Octr. 15. Clear, high wind from the S.W. Col. Haw- kins leaves the camp for St. Regis, with the barge. A cold morning, ice exceeding half an inch in thickness found in our basins. Becomes cloudy and unpleasant in the afternoon. Breath freezes at night on our blankets in the Marquee. Thursday, October 16. Cloudy in the morning and chilling wind, N.W. A pretty good day, however, for the surveyor, Mr. Adams, who is at work in the Rapide Plat. He is driven to camp, however, just before sun down, by a flight of snow and increase of wind from the S.W. Blows over, and wind comes round to the N.W. Friday, Octr. 17. Find the ground lightly covered with snow in the morning, and the appearance of its continuance. Changes to a damp cold day with wind from S.W. Saturday, Octr. 18. A pleasant and clear day, wind in the morning N.W. Go to Hamilton and visit the mills, new Church &c. Examine an ingenious machine for cutting nails, invented by a man there. It cuts 5 nails in 2 seconds, with no other labor than that of holding the iron plate to the mouth of the machine. It is a good place for mills. Judge Ogden, however, will not grant any privileges. There is a mill on the Canada side, on the Rapide Plat, the wheel of which is simply turned by the rapids. The fall of the whole rapid is about 12 ft., extending, however, a distance of 3 miles. 176 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Col. Ogilvy and party break up their camp and proceed to St. Regis, having finished their survey for the season, ending at the White House. Mr. Adams makes a good day's work, and has his stations per- fected to the head of Ogden's Island on the North channel. Sunday, Octr. 19. Clear and pleasant morning, afternoon a vio- lent storm of rain and wind from the S.W. Clears off before midnight with a strong gale from the N.W. Mr. Adams completes his calculations, mapping &c, as high as his observations, and is much gratified with the great accuracy of his work, insisting that no error which can possibly exceed one inch can be found in the last twelve miles' work, and not to exceed three inches in his work from St. Regis, a distance of more than forty miles; all of which is verified by repeated proofs in the correspondence of his work &c. and not surpassed by any surveys in the world, not excepting Spanish which are of the highest reputation. This, however, is rather too minute, altho the accuracy is remarkable. Monday, Octr. 20th. An uniformly clear day, wind steady from the N.W. and cold. Dispatch Terah to Ogdensburgh to cash a draft of Col. Hawkins' for 500 dlls. In the evening Mr. Vining and Mr. G. Ogden come to see me and remain during the night, which we spend by our fire in the woods. Our friends enjoy themselves to the full, but our hard fare, or more truly our good cheer causes them to exclaim in the morning "no more of your camp nights for us!" We slept by the fire in the bushes under the roof of a Marquee sheltered from the winds and kept ourselves warm with hot toddy til a late hour, to the incon- venience of our friends the next day. Tuesday, Octr. 21. Clear and pleasant day throughout, wind W. & S.W., Tempe. moderate at midday, at night cold. Strike the Marquee and make other preparations toward breaking up for the season. Terah returns from Ogdensburgh with the amnt. of the draft in paper and specie. Wednesday, Octr. 22. Clear and temperature moderate, wind high from the S.W. In the afternoon transport all the camp equipage and baggage belonging to the Agency to Hamilton, and store it with a Mr. Fulton in his chambers, for the use of which he is to be paid five dollars. Pay Genl. Porter 150 dlls. on acct. of Col. Hawkins' order on him in favor of T. Clinton. Spend the evening with the Ogdens. Thursday, Octr. 23. Raining and disagreeable day, wind S.W. Leave the camp at Boice's Point with Genl. Porter and Mr. Ogden for St. Regis in our skiff, which we reach about sunset, having passed the Long Sault Rapide without a pilot in safety, and with shipping a little water, an experiment however not to be recommended. Weather con- tinues thick thro the day: at night rain. BOOK TWO 177 Friday, Octr. 24th. Thick and cloudy, wind N.E. Pay off and dis- charge Louis Gray. Saturday, Octr. 25. Clear and high wind, N.W. Dine with Col. Ogilvy at his camp which he has pitched on the line as cut by Mr. Ellicott. Spend the evening and return to Anderson's miserable tavern to sleep (at St. Regis). Sunday, Octr. 26. Rain thro the day, attend the Catholic Church in the village in the morning, and return pleased with the decency in appearance of the natives, and decorum in the manner of their worship. Remain at Anderson's, which is only made tolerable by the good com- pany collected there. Both parties of the Commission, Mr. Hogan, Mr. Ogden, Judge Atwater, Judge Raymond making a singular collection of good company for this part of the country, and a pleasant party. Monday, Octr. 27. Storm continues, wind N.E. The Board sits at Col. Ogilvy's Marquee. Afternoon the party dines with us at Ander- son's. Stormy night. Tuesday, Octr. 28. Cold and disagreeable morning, wind N.E. and flights of snow. Clears off about noon, cold night, some snow and rain. Wednesday, Octr. 29th. Cloudy morning, trifling flight of snow. Clears off by 10 o'clock and is pleasant. Mr. Sewell leaves camp for winter quarters. Dr. Tiarks continues his observations: visit him at night finding him about to peep at the North Star. Return to Ander- son's. The mercury at 10 o'clock in the evening stood at 24 . Dr. Tiarks has the use of the repeating circle belonging to our observatory, a superb instrument of Troughton's make, with some improvements suggested by Mr. Hassler. 1 Col. Hawkins goes to French Mills. 1 Ferdinand Rudolph Hassler. First head of U. S. Coast Survey. In 181 8 Congress refused to appropriate money for the coast survey. In the Memoirs of Hassler, by Emil Zschokke, 1877, appears the following: "The Coast Survey being broken up in 1818, he accepted the situation of American Astronomer to the North Eastern Boundary line commission, and while on that com- mission established the fact that at the Treaty of Ghent, Rousses Point, New York, belonged to the United States, he claiming Heliocentric Latitude, the English As- tronomer, Dr. Tiarks, the Geocentric Latitude, by the former the Point was a few yards south of the 45th parallel by the latter a few yards north, as subsequently con- ceded in the Ashburton Treaty." On June 5, 1 816, he ordered a zenith sector of 6 feet from Troughton, London, for coast survey work. This was probably the same instrument used on the St. Lawrence. In 181 7-18 Hassler was one of the few men in the U. S. capable of doing astronomical and geodetic work of precision (Reports and Other Documents, Coast Survey, 181 6- 1843). Sept. 9, 181 7, Lieut. William Gibbs McNeil, Artillery, joined Hassler as Assistant. He was born in North Carolina in 1800. Graduated West Point in 181 7. He became a noted railroad engineer. 178 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Thursday, Octr. 30. Clear and pleasant morning. Gen'l. Porter, Majr. Fraser & Mr. Ogden leave us at day break, cross to Cornwall and proceed to Hamilton. The Genl. will strike the remaining camp and proceed to Black Rock for the winter. Col. Hawkins returns from French Mills. Friday, Octr. 31. Clear and moderate: wind S.W.: employ the men in opening the mound on Petite Isle de St Regis, to search for Indian relics, but find nothing but some skeletons, flint spear & pipe, Col. Hawkins having before got from it the principal curiosities. At night rain, wind N.E. Saturday, Novr. 1. Cloudy, Tempe. moderate, wind N.E. The In- dians celebrate All Saints Day under direction of the Catholic Priest. At night it commences raining and changes to hail; ends in snow, gale of wind. Sunday, Novr. 2. Heavy storm of snow, with gale of wind from N.E., continues throughout the day and moderates at night. Snow lies about 1 ft. deep. Monday, Novr. 3. Storm abated, wind N.W., cloudy and appear- ance of more snow. At noon take leave of St. Regis without regret, and take passage with Col. Ogilvy in his barge for Montreal, first crossing to McDonald's at Cornwall, where the party assembles, delaying our departure til 4 p.m. Afternoon cold and cloudy. Reach Point aux Bodette 1 or McGee's Point about 10 at night having crossed Lake St. Francis without suffering much. Find the snow deeper and finer as we descend the river. Find McGee's house crowded with vagabonds and, it being agreed that we start before day break, I wrap myself in my cloak, and, with my feet to the fire, stretched on the floor, sur- rounded by our party. Enjoy a good nap. Mr. Markoe, the St. Regis Priest, accompanies us. He is a pleasant and an amiable young man. Tuesday, Novr. 4. Get under way at 4 o'clock a.m., pass the rapids at the Coteau at sun rise and run to the Cedars, where we breakfast, and about 9 o'clock pass the rapids of the Cedars in the greatest safety and pleasure. Pass the cascades which are still more rough and reach La Chine by 2 o'clock. Take a pilot for the La Chine Rapids and, being delayed in searching for one, do not arrive at Montreal til sunset. The last rapids I consider the most danger- ous, and not to be passed without a skilful pilot, narrow passages thro rocks (over which flow torrents), shallows and rough water, make these rapids alarming. An attempt has been made to improve this navigation by art which makes it the more necessary 7 to confide your boat to a resident pilot. We could not have witnessed these splendid 1 Beaudette. BOOK TWO 179 scenes under better advantages than at this period. The whole coun- try being covered with snow, at a little distance you could not dis- tinguish where the white curling tops of the rapids ended, or the snow began, the whiteness of the one rivalling that of the other, and appear- ing to the eye one extended uproar of raging waters. Below the cas- cades you enter Lake St. Louis. On the South shore is the great Beau- haunois 1 estate, Chatteagay 2 & Cocknowaga 3 (an Indian village). Its tribe has extensive reservations. On the North side is Isle Plast, Point Clear & La Chine. The King's stores are about 2 miles below La Chine Church, from which are sent all the public supplies for the N. Province &c. There are also along this shore some old ware houses of the North West Company. At Chataguey 1 Point is a Nunnery. It was formerly an old trading place of great strength, is said by some, however, to have been built by Indians. Above Montreal is Nun's Island: there is a Nun- nery on it, and it belongs to Nuns. The Island of Montreal belongs to the Priests. It was an enormous principality as an estate, and now yields them a large revenue. They receive 5 per cent, on all sales of real property on the island, as informed by Col. Ogilvy. Part of this revenue is sent to France. Lodge at the Mansion House. Wednesday, Novr. 5. Cloudy but mild, wind S.W. Make prepara- tion to leave Montreal on the morrow. Mr. Colt sells Col. Hawkins' draft for 450 dlls., at par. The Mansion House is an excellent establishment, but appears to be too extensive for the place. Mr. Moulson the proprietor is a man of wealth, and is at great expense in building &c. Mr. Shaw, the North West trader dines with us. He has lately returned from the Red River and tells me that while there, he caused a human head to be carried and fixed upon a stake which he drove in the river, about the spot where in his estimation the line would run, and told the Indians to let it remain, for in 2 or 3 years strangers would come that way (meaning the Commissioners) who would like to find it and that they promised to do so. 4 Thursday, Novr. 6. Weather moderate and morning promises fair weather. Get ready to leave Montreal and cross to Longueil at 1 o'clock. Difficulty in procuring sufficient stages: am obliged to leave Thomas with the baggage to get on the best way he can. Begins to rain; roads exceedingly muddy. Reach St. John's 8 o'clock at night, put up at Cameron's, the best house. Thomas does not arrive with the baggage. Storm increases but Tempe. moderate, wind S.W. 1 Beauharnois. 1 Chateauguay. 8 Caughnawaga. 4 Probably on bank of Red River at Fort Pembina, Minn. 180 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Friday, Novr. 7. Cloudy, wind S.W. Thomas arrives with baggage just in time to save passage in the steam boat. Leave St. John's y^ past 8 o'clock in the Phoenix, Capt. Sherman, an excellent boat and a good master. Has an engine of 50 horse power and is 500 tons: sails at the rate of 9 miles an hour in dead water. Stop at several places to deliver freight, and are obliged to come to in the night somewhere about Crown Point on account of a very thick fog. Arrive at Whitehall next morning at 9 o'clock. Saturday, Novr. 8th. A heavy fog prevents our running into White- hall 'til about 9 o'clock. Mr. McGillevray, Mr. Shaw, Mr. Fraser, all of the North West Company, Mr. Cox & myself take an extra stage and a baggage waggon for Albany, paying 50 dlls. for the stage and 10 for the waggon: lodge at Salem that night at a very good house kept by Ter. Boss. Is a pretty village, some handsome houses. The country, well cultivated, is hill & dale, making beautiful views &c. Sunday, Novr. 9th. Send on the baggage waggon, after break- fast, leave our good quarters at Ter. Boss's & proceed: arrive in Albany in the afternoon and take lodgings at the Mansion House kept by Skin- ner, a better house than Baird's. Monday, Novr. 10. Clear and pleasant, Tempe. moderate. Pass the day in ranging about AJbany, visiting public buildings & places. The new academy is a fine building and the Lancaster School also does credit to the citizens — and they are both evidences of a praiseworthy exertion to diffuse learning. The upper part of the town is improving most. Tuesday, Novr. 1 1 . Left Albany in the steam boat Paragon Ror- back at 9 in the morning: clear & pleasant, wind southwardly. In the evening were obliged to come to anchor on account of a heavy fog which prevented our progress during the night & did not entirely dis- appear til the next night. Wednesday, Novr. 12. Thick fog that delays us, clears away about noon, wind South: arrive in the city 1 about 7 p.m. May 17th, 1 81 8. Leave New York in the steam boat, Richmond, in the morning, in company with Col. Hawkins and Lady for the bound- ary line. Heavy storm of wind & rain from the N.E. May 1 8th. Reach Albany about 4 o'clock and proceed thro Troy to Geoman's at Pittsfield to lodge: rains part of the day. 19th. Reach Root's near Granville to lodge: roads very bad, owing to incessant rains for more than a month past. Rains throughout the day. 1 New York City. BOOK TWO 181 May 20th. Passing thro Granville arrive at Whitehall at I o'clock and embark on board steam boat Phoenix at 2 o'clock for St. John's, where we arrive about 1 1 o'clock the next morning: rains most of the day. May 2 1 st. Leave St. John's about noon, take batteaux at La Priarie, l and arrive at the Mansion House in Montreal at 4 o'clock p.m.: the road across La Priarie very bad. May 22nd. Procure calashes at Montreal and proceed after break- fast to St. Anne's, which is the extreme point of the island, where we cross the Ottowa to Vaudreuil 2 . Have great difficulty in procuring other calashes or means of conveyance, and are finally obliged to seek lodgings for the night in the neighborhood. Are fortunate enough to be entertained in the house of a Canadian who had been formerly in the employ of the N.W. traders, and in better circumstances than most of them. The tavern near the point where travellers are landed is a miserable hovel, and the Canadians who keep the ferry would not forward us because, as we afterwards discovered, the roads were bad. A pleasing evidence of the manners of the politer French was evinced by our elderly landlady, about 60 yrs. of age. On our appearance in the morning, after the usual salutations, she presented Mrs. Hawkins with a boquet of flowers, plucked from the little stock she had nour- ished thro the winter. The landlord was equally civil and at our service, and was ready with three calashes in the morning to forward our party to the Cedars, about 7 miles distant for 9 dlls., a sum however extra- vagant in this quarter, could not be denied the polite Canadian. May 23d. Proceed from Vaudreuil to the Cedars, from thence to the Coteau du Lac, where we crossed Lake St. Francis in a Durham boat with a fine breese, and lodge at St. Regis. From Montreal to St. Regis is called 70 miles. A cloudless and pleasant day in all respects, wind N.E. May 24th. Remain at St. Regis until afternoon: find here Dr. Tiarks, astronomer of the Board under the 5th, who had spent much of the Winter making observations at this place. This being a holiday of the Catholic Church, of great celebration, the lower classes mostly from the neighbouring country as far as 30 miles around flock to the village. In the afternoon Col Hawkins & myself proceed with our barge, having employed two hands, Louis Gray and Ira Strong, as boat-men. Above Cornwall quit the barge for the purpose of greater 1 La Prairie. 2 Vaudreuil, from Cavagnal, Pierre Francois de Rigaud, Marquis de Vaudreuil, a native of Quebec, who became Governor of Canada in 1 755 and capitulated to the English in 1760, after Wolfe's victory over Montcalm. 1 82 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY expedition, hire a wagon and ride to Stoneburner's at the Long Sault to lodge. Weather clear and temperature mild & pleasant, wind S.W. May 25th. Proceed to the ferry at the head of the Rapide Plat, where we hire a canoe to carry us to the camp, which we found on the American shore about 6 miles above Hamilton. The British camp opposite on a small island called Tousaint's 1 Island. Genl. Porter had not yet reached the camp. The surveyors and other parties all present: this day cloudless and temperature mild and pleasant: wind S.W. Take lodgings at Dillabogh's. May 26. Remain opposite the camp at a farmer's house, by name Dillabogh, not having been able to procure any accommodations on our own shore. Took possession of our quarters here yesterday and have them now arranged tolerably comfortable. The day clear and tempera- ture mild until evening when heavy clouds arise from the N. & W. Visit the British camp on Tousaint's Island opposite Dillabogh's house, and only see Mr. Sewell, the rest on duty. May 27th. Cloudless and warm morning, continues very pleasant thro the day. At noon cross to the camp in the barge. Dine with Majr. F. and party and with him and Mr. Darby 2 visit Hamilton, now called W r addington. See there D.A. 3 & Gouver. Ogden & families. Mr. Darby ridicules the minuteness of the mode of survey, and insists upon his ability to perform much more work in a shorter period with sufficient accuracy, by the mode he recommends which is to measure right lines, lines on the shores and by offsets obtain the course and shape of the river, commonly called surveying by offsets. Mr. Adams and Mr. Darby have an unfortunate difference of opinion on this and other subjects of more consequence. Return from Waddington in the eve- ning: is 7 miles from the camp. Point Iroquois \}4 miles below camp: is not in my opinion eligible as a military position. The ground gradually rises from the shore for a quarter of a mile to the rear and is commanded by the corresponding point in Canada so that works erected on Point Iroquois would from their necessary inclination to the shore (without a prodigious expenditure to prevent it) present an extensive and sure face to the batteries of the enemy. Point Bluff, 12 miles below Wadding- ton, is a far preferable position but I consider it a mistaken idea to pretend the defence of a river frontier of 200 miles by any one or more batteries in any positions whatever an idle and extravagant project. Wind S.W. in the afternoon, fresh. Col. Ogilvy and Mr. Hale visit us at Dillabogh's. 1 Toussaint. 8 William Darby, born in Pennsylvania in 1775, a geographer, served as an officer under Andrew Jackson, a surveyor on the boundary and the author of several books. 3 D. A., not identified but probably David A. Ogden. BOOK TWO 183 May 28th. Morning cloudy, wind S.W., temperature moderate. Continues pleasant most of the day. Engage Terah Poor as a boatman. Spend the morning shooting wild pigeons 1 which have just made their appearance. A few years back the pigeons generally appeared in this part of the country early in April, and were depended upon in a meas- ure for subsistence. Dine with Col. Ogilvy in camp, Mr. Hale, Sewell, Stevenson, Adams, the additional Asst. surveyor and Gray the draughts- man. Mr. Sewell & myself have a confidential & mutual exposition of each other's opinions concerning the wish of both Commissioners to adjourn the Board early in the summer for the rest of the season. He assures me of Col. Ogilvy's willingness to accede to such a proposition and we agree to advance such a measure on the ground of principle, in the mode of transacting the work, as well as of economy in its execu- tion. The presence of the Commissioners and secretaries entirely useless on the line and the instructions which might be given to the surveyors being more in accordance with the business of the Commissions. May 29th. Cloudy morning, high wind from the N.W.: pleasant, temperature, cooler than yesterday afternoon: wind W., fresh. Evening heavy clouds from the N. and some rain. Musquitoes terribly thick and annoying. May 30th. Clear and pleasant. Genl. Porter arrives at camp, having been detained by an accident to the steam boat. Cross Lake Ontario to Sacket's Harbor in the Lady of the Lake and from thence to camp in a small row boat: collect several flowers in the woods for preservation, and remark the most of the rocks on the surface for a distance around this neighborhood to be full of holes from the attri- tion of the waters, denoting their having been at some time in the bed of the river or of such an age as to have undergone nearly a decompo- sition. The same is remarkable on Tousaint's Island. May 31. Cloudy and some rain, wind N.E. Dine with Col. Ogilvy and party at y 2 past five p.m. Leave our quarters at Dillabogh's for St. Regis: run in the evening by 10 o'clock to Stoneburner's at the head of the Long Sault being 28 miles. June 1 . Steady rain, wind E. Proceed through the Long Sault on the North channel with boat thro Moulenetea 2 or Millimalie: arrive at St. Regis about 10 a.m. Genl. Porter, Col. Ogilvy, Hale and party arrive at the same time, having left their camps about 50 miles up the river at 4 o'clock this morning. Find Mr. Adams and Mr. Thompson encamped above the village. Col. Hawkins goes to French Mills. June 2d. Cloudy in the morning, at noon sultry wind. Visit Mr. 1 Passenger pigeons, at that time migrating in great flocks. 2 Moulinette. 1 84 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Adams' camp. Col. Ogilvy, Hale & Sewell cross from Colquhoun's to St. Regis. Mr. Gray, the draftsman, relates some curious anecdotes to me of the ignorance of his countrymen concerning the geography of this coun- try. Among others it is well known that vessels of war were built in Portsmouth, England, for the lake service in America. He says he was convoyed out by a vessel built expressly for the lakes and that she was fitted up with the new patent machines for converting salt water to fresh! Mr. Garrard of Montreal told me that the timber for the 32 gun frigate on Lake Ontario was sent from England, and that he knew from his own marks upon it that some of the timber was the very same that he had ship'd to England from the Canadas, and that it cost to transport it simply from Montreal to Kingston jf 10.000. In the after- noon Commissioners Van Ness 1 & Barclay, Agents Bradley 2 and Chip- man Junr. arrive at St. Regis from Burlington via Montreal. They form the Board under the 5th Article of the Treaty. June 3d. Clear & pleasant morning, warm wind, S.W. Remain at St. Regis. The garden seeds in this village just begin to shew their sprouts above ground. June 4th. Morning clear and warm, noon cloudy, wind E., after- noon S.W. Both Boards and attendants dine with Col. Ogilvy at Colquhoun's below Cornwall. A fly lesser than the eel fly found covering the water, fences, houses &c, quere if it does not become the eel fly? The cantharides 3 found about this neighborhood. At night heavy rain. June 5th. Cloudy but no rain. Wind S.W.: temperature moderate, rather warm. At noon astronomers succeed in observing the sun. The rest of the day and night cloudy. The Indian for St. Regis is Agwesasne. June 6th. Atmosphere thick, wind S.W. The Board under the 5th holds a meeting at the Priest's house. The Board under the 6th & 7th at Anderson's tavern. The former adjourn over sine die on account of the absence of their astronomer (Mr. Hassler) who is detained by sickness in the Chateaugay 4 W T oods. They having determined to depend exclusively upon the observations of Mr. Hassler and Dr. Tiarks (the astronomer of their Board) for the 1 Cornelius Peter Van Ness, born Kinderhook, New York in 1782. Became a lawyer and settled at Burlington, Vermont. Commissioner under the Treaty of Ghent, 181 7-2 1. Chief Justice and later Governor of Vermont etc. 2 William Czar Bradley, born at Westminster, Vermont Mar. 23, 1 783 and died there in 1867. Agent for the United States under the Fifth Article of the Treaty of Ghent. 3 Cantharidae, a species of Spanish or blistering fly. 4 Chateauguay. BOOK TWO 185 45th parallel of latitude. Our astronomers calculate the 45th to be very nearly % of a mile South of the point fixed upon by Mr. Ellicott and Dr. Tiarks who agree within a trifle. Mr. Ellicott's observations are not admitted by the Board under the 5th Art., he not being recog- nized as an officer of either Commission. This Board intends proceed- ing from this point West, establishing the latitude and erecting monu- ments every 15 miles, leaving the survey until this duty is performed by their astronomers. The Board under the 6th and 7th Art. adjourn to their camp above Hamilton: the other Board not being prepared to establish the Lat. of 45 on acct. of sickness of their astronomer. In the afternoon Col. Hawkins goes to French Mills. Evening distant thunder storm in the North: at St. Regis heavy gusts of wind from S.W. The Board under the 5th was not willing to act in concert with our Board upon this point of latitude, considering I believe, that we had nothing to do with it. Perhaps their greater and reasonable confidence in their astronomers had its influence. June 7th. Cloudy and sultry morning. Genl. Porter & Col. Ogilvy & Sees, accompanied by Mr. Van Ness, Col. Barclay and Mr. Chip- man leave St. Regis for our camp above Hamilton, crossing to Col- quhoun's: take waggons & send on the boat. Col. Hawkins & Lady return from French Mills in the afternoon and a batteaux arrives with the son of Mr. Bouchette 1 and his assistant surveyor and five laborers. Mr. Bradley and myself pass the day together at St. Regis. June 8th. Steady rain, wind N.E. Mr. Bradley and myself spend the day together and have much interesting conversation upon the various topics of both policy and difficulty that at present agitate both Commissions. Those of the 5th of a public nature and managed with great adroitness by Mr. Bradley; those of the 6th most unfortunately are personal, 2 but necessarily have and must continue to affect the public good, if not speedily adjusted. Mr. Van Ness and Mr. Bradley exert themselves to bring about the desired reconciliation between Genl. Porter & Col. Hawkins. Mr. Bradley & myself have a full understanding of the course he intended to pursue in establishing the latitude at this point, and also the line across the highlands where two millions of acres are in question. It singularly happens that his argue- 1 Joseph Bouchette, a Canadian topographer born in 1774. In 1814 he became Surveyor General of British North America. 8 Refers to an unfortunate controversy between General Porter and Colonel Hawkins regarding their respective duties. Ultimately it was agreed that both should absent themselves and that Major Delafield, assisted by Major Fraser, should take full charge of the expedition (Delafield's Diary, p. 7. This was in July, 1818. "From this time," says the Diary, "all the duties of the Agency devolved upon me."). 1 86 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY ments for that section of the line overturn the grounds he must assume to establish this section, if he insists upon the 45th being calculated upon the principle of the earth being an oblate spheroid upon which calculation we gain 14 miles North. He makes a good arguement, how- ever, with a different set of reasons. Storm continues through the day & night. June 9th. Cloudy and damp, sultry atmosphere: Visit the astrono- mers' camp. Col. Hawkins & Lady & myself depart from St. Regis in the afternoon and arrive at Cornwall to lodge. Stop at Chesley's tavern, a pretty good house. June 10th. Am detained at Cornwall by the ill health of Col. Hawkins, who is visited by Dr. Dickinson. His complaint billious. My own prescription not having entirely relieved him, which was a strong cathartic, Dr. Dickinson directs an emetic. Mr. Van Ness, Col. Barclay & Mr. Chipman 1 breakfast in Cornwall on their return from our camp above. Conference with Mr. Van Ness on the mediation he had undertaken between Gen'l. P. B. Porter and Col. Hawkins. He assures me of Gen'l Porter's assent to have a full and frank conversation when they meet. Suggests that Col. Ogilvy keeps up the excitement, and gires me the first direct intimation I had heard of Mr. Ogilvy's not being entirely satisfied with the appoint- ment of his Agent. He would rather have had no Agent: and rather Mr. Sewell to Col. Hale. Acquaint Col. Hawkins of the above in toto. He assures me of his willingness & intention to say to Genl. Porter that he is prepared to adopt his plans & purposes for the execution of the Agency, &c. I recommend his avowing himself the Agent of the Commissioner as well as of the Board, and state my conviction of its being determined at headquarters to adopt the views of Genl. Porter as their confidential officer. His influence as predominating, & the ab- solute necessity of a change in the existing relationship: or consequent retirement of the one or the other. Mr. Woods' attention & politeness at Cornwall. The day clear, warm and pleasant. Wind S.W. June nth. Clear and pleasant, wind N.W. Leave Cornwall after breakfast and proceed in the barge to Ault's to lodge, Col. Hawkins' health preventing a longer route for the day. Is a poor tavern. June 1 2th. Clear and pleasant, high winds from the S.W. Leave Ault's 2 early and breakfast at Monroe's, a cleaner tavern than most on this road: is a half mile above Chuyetter's house. Reach Dillabogh's in the afternoon where we leave Mrs. Hawkins & Thomas. The Col. 1 Ward Chipman, born in Massachusetts in 1 754. An official of the government of New Brunswick and employed in 181 6 by the British Commission under the Fifth Article of the Treaty of Ghent. He died in New Brunswick in 1824. 2 Now Aultsville. BOOK TWO 187 &. myself proceed with the barge to find Genl. Porter's camp, he having moved the day before from this neighborhood. Proceed til about 9 at night, when the men being much exhausted by the labor of ascending the current, we seek lodgings and are accommodated at a farmer's house by name Nettleton on the Canada shore at the head of what are commonly called the Galloo 1 Islands. Musquitoes very an- noying. June 13th. Clear and cool, high wind from the N.E. Early in the morning proceed up the river and find Genl. Porter's camp, a mile & a half above our lodgings for the night, on a small but beautiful island, opposite Briggs on our side. This island infected with innumerable quantities of flies & vermin which lie in the shade of the trees nearly an inch thick on the ground and are most offensive to the smell, so much so that we are obliged to sleep to the windward of the island, and resolve to move the camp. In the afternoon visit Ogdensburgh: return and lodge in the camp. At night, rain. June 14th. Rain, wind N.E. Genl. Porter moves his camp to an island lying about one mile to the West called Drummond's Island, a most beautiful spot, not surpassed in any particular by the most im- proved and costly grounds that both art and nature have contrived. It appears to have been many years ago entirely cleared, and at pres- ent is most delightfully covered with groups of bass wood trees, and a close firm sod without a bush to be seen. Remains of old fortifications are to be seen on its upper extremity, built by the French to protect them from the natives. Afternoon clear and pleasant, wind S. June 15. Heavy clouds throughout the day from the N.W., thun- der showers and rain and hail. Col. Hawkins and Lady arrive at Genl. Porter's camp from Dillaboghs and cross to Johnstown, to lodge til the camp is prepared. A miserable tavern at Johnstown, the place going to decay. June 16. Clear and pleasant, wind S.W 7 ., high. Pitch the Marquee on Drummond's Island. Col. Hawkins & Lady come to the camp to re- main. Dine with Mr. G. Parish. June 17. Cloudy, wind W., afternoon storm of rain. Theomr. at 4 o'clock p.m. 58 , wind W.S.W. The Board sits in Col. Ogilvy's camp on the island west of us. Clears off before sunset, with the wind as before. June 18. Clear, wind W., mercury at noon 71 , at sunset Theomr. 64 . Remain on the island. June 19th. Clear and very pleasant, wind W.S.W. Genl. Porter and Col. Ogilvy leave camp for St. Regis at 2 o'clock in the morning in Galop Islands. 1 88 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Col. Ogilvy's bark canoe. Thermometer at 4 o'clock p.m. 76 , night so cool as to require a pair of thick blankets. June 20th. Clear and pleasant day. Wind W.S.W., in the afternoon high. Thermometer at 2 p.m. 74 . Visit an island about one mile below the camp, among the group called the Galloo's, and opposite the first rapid on the Canada side, which is surrounded with the remains of former fortifications. A parapet and ditch are continued mostly around the island and are still in tolerably good order. They were doubtless built by the French and evidently for the purpose of defence against an attack from the upper country, the head of this as well as other islands being principally fortified. Chimney Island South of us, and its corresponding point on the American shore, were occupied as military positions, as apparent from the ruins of barracks and lines of defence (See June 22d.). Genl. Porter returns from St. Regis. Found there Mr. Hasler the astronomer of the 5th Art. Board. He asserted that the tables used by Mr. Adams & Mr. Thompson were erroneous, and gave them the cor- rections, which obliges these gentlemen to compute again their ob- servations. The great delay at that point, and in truth the whole business of astronomical observation there, on the part of our Board, I deem both inexpedient and unnecessary. It is sufficient to have a starting point of common certainty. We are to commence in the middle of the river & a mile above or below is of no consequence, there being no adjudications. The 5th Board have the same latitude to run for a long distance and the point fixed by them must necessarily be our starting point. So that 3 days instead of 3 months would have been all that was requisite for any reasonable purpose of our Board, so far as I can foresee. Cool night. June 21. Hazy atmosphere, wind S.W.: Receive from H & W.D. 1 a Post Note for 900 dlls. in favor of Col. Hawkins and deliver same to him. June 22. Clear and very warm. Thermometer at 2 o'clock 89^°, a degree of heat seldom known here. Perfectly calm throughout the day, wind so far as perceptible from the S.W. Remain on Drummond's Island. The tradition among the neighboring people concerning the fortifications around us, is that the works on Drummond's Island and on the islands below & the work at Indian Village or Chimney Point, were thrown up and occupied by the British, who had driven the French into their strong hold on Chimney Island as commonly called. After a long siege and much battering the French are said to have 1 Henry and William Delafield, the twins, younger brothers of Major Joseph Dela- field, and successful shipping merchants in New York. BOOK TWO 189 made their escape in the night. The work on Chimney Island appears to have been strong, the parapet eight feet high, with a broad ditch and mounted probably 20 guns. Seven Chimneys are still standing and some of them in good order and well built. From the parapet may be dug cannon and musket balls. Blacksmith, and other implements have been found within a few years, denoting the sudden departure of its garrison. June 23. Clear and warm, wind S.W., thermometer at noon 77 . About 40 batteaux filled with British troops pass our encampment early in the morning from the upper posts. June 24. Clear in the morning, wind VV.S.VV., thermometer at noon 72 . Col. Ogilvy, Mr. Hale and Mr. Sewell dine with Genl. Porter in camp. Rain in the afternoon. June 25. Cloudy in the morning, wind N.E. Clears off at noon, sultry. Thermometer at 8o°. Discharge Ira Strong a boatman. 26th. Clear and pleasant for most of the day, wind S.W. Mr. Wybault, Mr. Gray, and Mr. Bohen visit us in camp. Col. Ogilvy, Col. Hale and Mr. Sewell with the gendemen of our party dine with Col. Hawkins under the shade of the trees by his Marquee. In the afternoon Mr. Adams and Mr. Thompson arrive from St. Regis. Mr. Adams same afternoon establishes a meridian line from a base on Chim- ney Point. [Salaries and Expenses.] Comr 4444 Agent 4444 Asst Secy 2200 Agents Secy 1 000 Astronomer 2000 Asst Surveyer 1 1 1 1 do do 1000 Draftsman 600 2 Chain-bearers 360 1 o boatmen 960 Steward 500 Cooks 96 Agents boatman 298 Agents Steward 96 Subsistence for the Comrs party do for Agents party Travelling expenses of all 19,109 1 500 500 500 2 1 ,609 igo THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Reed of Col H. on the Hudson ioo. May 20th ioo. " 22nd 50. 7- balanced 257. May 31 on going to St. Regis 10. June 10th at St. Regis 5. 1 1 th at Stoneburners 4. 1 3 going to Ogdensburgh 5. Expenses from NYork 18 Pd Steam boat fare to Albany 28.50 1 9 Pd Skinner's at Albany 8.50 25th Wagon hire from Cornwall to Mattilda 11. " Canoe from Matilda to Camp 3. June 7th Thompson for pr of oars 1 . 8th Expenses boatmen, at French mills 5. " Mrs. Gray for washing 3.50 9th Andersons Tavern Bill 32.30 1 1 th Chesleys at Cornwall for party 10.20 " Hooples for tow line 1 .25 " ferriage to Cahounes for Thomas .50 " Dinners at Stoneburners for party 3.50 " Wagon hire from Long Sault to Aults 1 .20 Supper & lodging at Aults 2.03 1 2th 9>£ Pork for men 1 .90 " Breakfasts at Monroes 1.25 " Luncheons .75 Suppers & lodgings 1 . Louis Gray .70 Portage for Col .37 advances to Dillabogh 10. BOOK THREE June 27, 1818 to September 23, 1818 June 27, 1 81 8. Camp on Drummond's Island, St. Lawrence River Early in the morning thick heavy mist which is blown off by a strong S.W. wind. Yesterday Genl. Porter made known to me his desire to leave the line for the rest of the season, and wished to know Col. Hawkins* views as to the propriety of his, Col. Hawkins', absence also. It being a new suggestion entirely, agreed to intimate to Col. Hawkins the proposition of Gen'l. Porter, which I did the same day. In the eve- ning we had a full discussion of the subject, which gave me by its results but little hope of effecting that concert & harmony in the plans of the two gentlemen, which can alone continue the Commission in its true objects. Col. Hawkins had fearful suspicions that such arrangement was proposed for the purpose of nullifying the duties of his office & that, if he acceded to it, he would be deserted by his true friends for having made a willing sacrifice of the offices he should perform. He also expressed other fears, that the Commissioner hoped by this plan to rid himself at the expense of the Agent, from the awkward dilemma he was placed in, by the report of last winter's committee of investigation: that by leaving his secretary he would make it appear that he was a useful officer; and that by leaving me it would appear that the Agent's duties did not re- quire the attention of both of us. Our conversation was at length & full. Thro it all, the suspicion of design, seemed to keep nothing but the black side of the subject in the mind of Col. Hawkins. I object strongly to his views of the Genl.'s intentions, believing them to be honorable and well meant. Explain how, by acceding to the proposition, the conse- quence of his office is enhanced, and he admitted to a performance of some duties which hitherto he had not been in any way connected with: that I thought Gen'l Porter's proposition conciliatory: that his leaving me and Fraser alternately with the party was an admission of his right to superintend the survey, for I could not be considered as any other way attached than as his representative: that Gen'l Porter's requiring his occasional visits also to the camp was decisively acknowl- edging a duty of the Agent, which had been far from having been thought appendant to his appointment heretofore by Genl Porter. This morning we travel over the same grounds as yesterday, and con- 192 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY elude that I intimate to the Genl. that I had apprized Col. Hawkins of the plan he had proposed. This morning I told Genl Porter at the request of Col. Hawkins that I had intimated to him the suggestions he yesterday made to me, con- cerning the absence of both of them from the line: that from what conversation had passed between us, I could say that Col. Hawkins was perfectly willing to comply with, and adopt such instructions as he should think fit to direct as Col. Hawkins had already assured him as I understood. Genl. Porter appeared gratified, and replied that much money might thus be saved, and that occasional visits by Col. Hawkins would answer every purpose. I then stated that if such visits were di- rected by the instructions it would comply with the wishes of Col. Hawkins and reconcile some of the difficulties that existed arising from the views Col. Hawkins had express'd of his duties to the government, by which he could not perhaps be entirely justified in adopting a change without such directions. Genl. Porter appeared also to assent to this, and concluded by saying he would have a conversation with the Col. in the course of the day. Acquaint Col. Hawkins with what had transpired between the Genl. & myself. June 28. Cloudy in the morning, at noon clear and high wind from W.S.W. Cross from Drummond's Island to Mr. Conant's and return with him to dine in camp. Genl. Porter & Col. Ogilvy go in search of a proper place for the next encampment. Judge Ogden 1 visits the camp on his return from Buffalo. Mr. Adams communicates to me, most fully and frankly, the result of his observa- tions while at St. Regis. Some circumstances which transpired between him and Mr. Thompson give just occasion to suspect the purity of his, Mr. Thompson's, motives. An attempt at intrigue on the part of Mr. Thompson which I think he would not have dared to attempt without the instructions of Col. Ogilvy, could not be concealed from Mr. Adams. Station of Mr. Adams: departure sudden prevented. Confidence and council between Adams & Ogilvy; exclusion of Thompson must have been a contrivance previously concerted. Thompson's uncertainty as to the point he would assume. Great anxiety about the mouth of the Racket. 2 Giving a West line which he volunteered to cut for Mr. Adams an inclination to the South. Ogilvy's request of Adams to communicate confidentially with C. 3 of the 5th the most bold and 1 Probably Thomas Ludlow Ogden. 2 The meaning of this paragraph is not at once apparent. It apparently refers to a controversy which in the end led to Adams' resignation as appears later in the Diary. 3 Committee of the 5th refers to a member of the Commission under the 5th Article of the Treaty of Ghent. BOOK THREE 193 impudent attempt at corruption. Rebuke too mild. His hurry for the report at this moment corroborative. Advise Mr. Adams to improve the first occasion to have as full and similar conversation with Gen'l Por- ter: urge it forthwith. Suggest some cautions to Mr. Adams about his re- port. The sun and six stars were used by Mr. Adams & Thompson. The observations were very exact and fortunate giving in every instance uniform results, i.e. each object gave the like result each time altho the several objects varied in their results. Mr. Adams assures me he made every observation that was accepted: that Mr. Thompson made but one, which one was rejected. Upon reflection I think there was more love of mystery in Mr. Adams than want of good faith in Mr. Ogilvy. Neither Adams or Thompson were skilled in the use of the circle & their observations at St. Regis of little use. June 29. Clear, wind N.E. until night, temperature moderate. In the afternoon Col. Hawkins and Lady leave the camp for Mr. Sher- wood's near Brockville. Strike the Marquee and make preparations for moving. Gen'l Porter sends off a batteaux load of his heaviest baggage. Judge Atwater and a Mr. Perkins visit us in the evening. The Judge confers with me in relation to the affairs of his friend Haw- kins with the Commissioner. He also had a conversation with Porter upon this and the last winter's affair at Washington. The Judge inquires of me whether his name was mentioned during the investigation of the island speculation, recollecting that he and Col. Hawkins had frequent conversations upon the subject in my presence, and that thro him we had learned some suspicions. I assure him it was not, and acquaint him that I avoided it by limiting with Genl. Porter the interrogatories he was to put to me, so as not to oblige me to name persons who were without the reach of the committee and thus leave the matter in the dark. The Judge did not seem surprised when I told him the Genl. had never inquired of me what information or rather what persons absent had conversed with me about this transaction and added that when he conversed with the Genl. upon this subject this evening, the Genl. did not look him in the face altho he (Atwater) steadfastly fixed his eyes upon him. The Judge said nothing more explicit, but left upon my mind an impression I much regret, and one I cannot give credit to, but with great reluctance and uncertainty. In truth I do not doubt the purity of General Porter's conduct in this matter, although it was attempted to impress me to the contrary. June 30th. High wind from the S.W., some thunder and rain about sun rise. Genl. Porter moves his camp above Brockville. Blows thro the day a heavy gale from the S.W., so strong that I am prevented moving our establishment up the river. Remain on Drummond's Island alone, excepting Thomas & 2 boatmen. The river rises more i 9 4 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY than one foot this day, which is occasioned by the gale from the lake. In the afternoon cross to the Canada shore and engage a batteaux & crew of a Mr. Tucker to transport our camp equipage in the morning up the river. July i. Fair and pleasant, wind moderate from the N.E. Mr. Tucker with his batteaux arrives shortly after sunrise, which is loaded, our tents struck, and all underway by 6 o'clock. Take Thomas & pro- ceed in the barge with some baggage. Take in Col. Hawkins at Brock- ville, and proceed to reconnoitre for our encamping ground, and fix upon an island at the head of the group first above Brockville, & about 5 miles from thence. Genl. Porter's camp a little below on the American maine and Col. Ogilvy's opposite on the British shore. Pitch the Marquee and have the camp in readiness by 3 o'clock in the afternoon, having proceeded up the river since 6 o'clock about five and twenty miles. In the afternoon Mr. Adams discovers us on our island, with whom we visit the party on the maine, & return in the evening, much pleased with our advantage in choice of position for the camp. Brockville is a pretty little village, and has the appearance of a growing place. The most of the houses have a genteel appearance. Its Court House and Church are respectable buildings. It is the only town on the river, on that side, which has any communication with the interior. The Ridant 1 River and Lake lie about 30 miles to the rear & are settled. Much lumber comes to this place, and the few ware houses on the river show the bustle of business. The harbor is good. Col. Hawkins procures quarters for Mrs. Hawkins at a Capt. Hall's in Brockville where she remains. July 2. Clear and pleasant until afternoon, when it is overcast, with clouds but no rain, wind N.E. Several top sail schooners pass our island going up from Ogdensburgh, Prescott & Brockville, the two former are at the foot of the navigation as used, altho 5 miles lower down, i.e. to the Galop Islands, it is equally good. Mr. Tibbits, 2 of Troy, made one of the first purchases in this country & chose this spot, it being the most eligible & the foot of the navigable water for heavy vessels. It was never improved & Ogdensburgh took the lead. The Canada shore from Pres- cott to this island (20 miles) is well cultivated, and there are many large, well built stone & wood houses, indicating wealth. On our side, there are but few clearings, for the same distance, excepting a small establishment at Morristown, opposite Brockville. Above that, the forests are almost impenetrable. July 3. Clear and warm, wind N.E. Take an abundance of fish 1 Rideau. 2 George Tibbits, of Troy, born in Warwick, R. I. in 1763. Member of Congress, the State Senate, etc. BOOK THREE 195 among these islands, bass, perch and a white fish called chubs the most plenty. The muskilonge are also taken here. Loose our bunch of fish, which had been strung on a strong stick and left in the water overnight and discover that the stick had been bit in two places by minks, and the fish concealed in the crevices of rocks. Catch a mink. It is a black animal about 1 foot in length, its head somewhat like a rat's. Is amphibious. Has flat broad paws with many claws: so offensive to the smell that it was thrown away previous to examination. Deer abound on the American shore. Porcupines are found, and a dead otter on a neighboring island. The British steam boat Charlotte from Kingston passes down to Prescott in the afternoon. Gen'l Porter visits us. Col. Hawkins opens the subject of the contemplated arrangement of leaving the Line with him. Gen'l Porter acknowledges his embarras- ments concerning the Agent. Says he will visit Washington, and gladly adopt any suggestions that the Executive or Secy, of State would intimate relative to Agent's duties, and if they would suggest anything at Washington he would then make it a point to insist upon its execu- tion with Col. Ogilvy. Col. Hawkins tells him that he is afraid the contemplated arrangement is all wrong; that he thinks it is wrong. Genl. Porter appoints tomorrow for a further conversation after seeing again Col. Ogilvy. Col. Hawkins communicates the above to me. July 4th. Warm sultry day, wind S.W. The Board sits in Gen'l Porter's camp at 6 in the morning. The Agents attend for the first time at the request of the Commissioners. The Agents are advised with concerning the propriety of increasing the salary of Messrs. Bird & Stevenson, a proposition made by Mr. Ogilvy. The Commissioners and Agents agree to leave the Line. Gen'l Porter declines giving instructions to Col. Hawkins to that purpose, but solicits that he would do so. A friendly agreement takes place. Majr. Fraser and myself alternately to take charge of our camp. Col. Ogilvy will visit his camp every fort- night. The British steam boat Charlotte passes up the river early in the morning & the American boat Ontario passes down and returns at 5 in the afternoon. Gen'l Porter and party take wine with us, until the boat passes, when he gets on board for Niagara, previous to his visit south, where he intends renouncing his bachelorship. In the eve- ning we indulge in mirth and wine in celebration of the day. Col. Hawkins goes to Brockville. The afternoon exceedingly warm and calm. Hear the reports of heavy cannon, supposed to be from Sacket's Harbor. July 5. Hazy weather, temperature moderate, wind fresh from S.W. & E. Col. Ogilvy moves his camp, in order to be more central in his section of survey. Remain with Terah only on our rock island thro the day. Col. Hawkins returns from Brockville. 196 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY July 6. Clear and calm and exceedingly warm on this rock. Cross to our party on the main and pass the morning. Immediately before their camp lie large strata of rocks formed of pebbles. The shore is covered with what is usually called shingles. When formed into con- cretions however they adhere to the lime stone strata in a tolerably firm manner making a regular pudding stone. The shores still show some lime stone; but the islands are in this group entirely granite of the reddish hue. Below they were mostly lime stone. In this group (which are, by the by, merely rocks, with hardly sufficient soil to drive a tent pin) the granite rocks are rent in fissures leaving in many in- stances crevices 3 & 4 inches wide. In some those fissures are filled with pure transparent white quartz, giving a singular appearance to the mass. On some of them are also seen rocks of pure white quartz of large dimensions. The water is within 10 feet of many of the islands 30 ft. deep; and the river very uneven at bottom. Shallows may be seen in its widest expanse & then again very deep water. There is some marble about the other camp. The prevailing stone however is strata of sand stone upon beds of quartz pebbles, rounded by the attrition of water. July 7. Steady storm of light rain, wind from N.E., Tempe. mod- erate. July gth. Clear and pleasant, strong wind from S.W. Col. Hawkins goes to Brockville, I to the camp on the maine where I stay til after- noon. The draughtsman detects several serious errors in Mr. Darby's section of survey about the Gallop Islands. Mr. Adams in great trouble, the maps having been exchanged with the British as given in by Mr. Darby and his own plot and calculations having been copied by the draftsman. Mr. Adams concludes to resurvey the work himself, and not to make unfavorable report of Mr. Darby until he has heard his account of the business. Advise his ordering a report of Mr. Darby's subsequent work, in order to see how that may be executed, and urge the propriety of his divesting himself, on his interview with Mr. Darby, of every other feeling than that of a desire to set the work right if practicable: at all events on a cool statement, first to obtain Mr. D's views of the matter. Return to the Marquee on Isle du Camp, where Mr. Adams, Majr. Fraser & Gedney 1 sup & spend the evening with me. July 10th. Morning clear, calm and warm, noon wind rises from N.N.E., pleasant. Mr. Darby returns from his section of survey to the camp. Is informed of the errors in his former work. Has an interview 1 Lieut. Thomas R. Gedney, U.S.N, who was attached to Coast Survey for many years. BOOK THREE 197 with Mr. Adams, by whom he is ordered to resurvey the work. Mr. Darby refuses to do so, having been first told by Mr. Adams that Mr. Bird should resurvey his work. Mr. Darby leaves Mr. Adams after considerable passionate dialogue. Mr. Adams proceeds to complete his delineations below and sends Mr. Bird to resurvey the last work of Mr. Darby. Majr. Fraser, myself & Mr. Darby go down the river in search of Mr. Adams, Mr. Darby having consented to take instructions from Mr. Adams, to acknowledge the errors in his work, and his pas- sion on his interview with Mr. Adams. During the time of our passage to Ogdensburgh, Mr. Darby shows unpardonable inconsistency, at one moment swearing vengeance, and that he would no longer work under Mr. Adams, at another, that he would correct his work, and then depart: then, that he would remain until superceded, and finally he agreed that he would make acknowledgements to Mr. Adams and con- tinue with the Commission as long as he could. The latter appeared to be his opinion & wish when in his most deliberative mood. Mr. Darby unfortunately indulges too freely with his glass, on which occasions he is rudely assuming in his pretensions, and unreasonable. We reach Ogdensburgh about 4 o'clock p.m., not having fallen in with Mr. Adams. Take our lodgings at Wright's. Spend the evening with Mr. Bohen. Mr. Darby mortifies us extremely by getting drunk and evinc- ing the blackguard. The steam boat passengers pass on without stop- ping, much dissappointing me in not affording an opportunity to see Mrs. Gore &c. July nth. At Ogdensburgh: clear and very warm, wind S.W. Mr. Darby leaves us after breakfast to find Mr. Adams; is absent about 3 hours and returns saying that he had had a friendly & frank interview with Mr. Adams and that all things were now right & that he now expected to get along with Mr. Adams better than he had ever done heretofore. Spoke in handsome terms of Mr. Adams and told Majr. Fraser & myself that Mr. Adams & he had agreed and that he would at once undertake a resurvey of his erroneous work. The errors in his work are extreme, and not readily accounted for. Previous to our search for Mr. Adams, to come to some definite understanding upon the subject, I took the precaution to reduce to writing the results of the investigation of Mr. Darby's work by himself & Richd. Delafield & signed by each of them, by which it appears that in some instances angles were found in his report to the draftsman which were not in his original field notes, and in others his angles reported wrong were found correct in his original notes. Majr. Fraser reports all that had trans- pired to Gen'l Porter by letter; and most scrupulously gave Mr. Darby every chance for exculpation possible. We both exert ourselves to reconcile the difficulties, by keeping the parties confined to the public 1 98 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY interest alone. Mr. Darby express'd great willingness to abide by my advice and altho willing, as he said, to concede very much to me, would not to Mr. Adams. At sun set Majr. Fraser & myself proceed by wagon to Morris Town to lodge. Col. Ford and a Squire Canfield the only residents at this place of any note. Is in the Town of Hague, lands good. Best timber cut off, a turnpike from Ogdensburgh to this place on the river, thence back to Denmark, 60 miles in all, cut by Mr. Parish; a very good road. Is a tavern at Morristown. July 1 2th. Clear and pleasant, wind fresh from S.W. Majr. Fraser & self leave Morristown at 6 a.m. in a skiff and proceed to camp 4 miles above. Procure from Mr. Adams the result of Mr. Bird's experi- ment on Mr. Darby's last work, which falsifies the same, altho a plain section of the river. Upon this further fact we require Mr. Adams' statement for the General and Majr. Fraser; forward the same, em- braced in his own letter, with an undisguised opinion that Mr. Darby is not competent to the business of this survey. Mr. Adams desired us to state as from him, that on account of the multiplicity of errors in Mr. Darby's first work, and that after frequent repetitions; from his great doubts as to the accuracy of his last work, and his observation on the manner of Mr. Darby's execution of his work altogether, he could not think him competent to the business of this survey. Mr. Adams revised my draft of his own words which I had prepared for Majr. Fraser to forward, at his request, and assented to the same. He afterwards indicted me a postscript for that communication upon the subject of Mr. Darby's latest work pronouncing it in substance in- admissable. The draft of this part of the communication is preserved by Majr. Fraser, is in my handwriting with Mr. Adams' alterations to the part he did not indict. In the evening cross to camp on our little island, and find no person there but Terah the cook. Col. Hawkins absent in Brockville. July 13th. Clear, high wind from S.W. Remain alone with Terah on the island. Majr. Fraser spends the afternoon and evening with me. Messrs. Adams & Bird go down the river. July 14th. Clear and pleasant, Tempe. moderate; high wind rises at noon from the S.W. Copy Mr. Thompson's report on his observa- tions to establish the 45 of latitude. It is badly drawn, and I think his choice of results is used by direction of Col. Ogilvy, or rather Mr. Fraser's opinions made to suite his Commissioners. He better have been quiet about the circle and its use, about which he differs with Mr. Hassler. At 3 p.m. Majr. Fraser and myself set off for the British to compare our documents with the originals in the possession of Mr. Sewell. Find their camp, after 4 hours hard struggling against a heavy wind, on Yeo's Island about 1 2 miles from us. The Canada shore from BOOK THREE 199 Brockville up is of inaccessible ledges of schistus rock, 1 sand stones, which in many places assumes regular angular forms, resembling very much the appearance of fortification. There is also an appearance of the river having at some time flowed near the top of these banks which will now average 30 ft. in height. Is it not probable that one of the rapids below was formerly a large cataract like that of Niagara, which, having been worn away, has emptied Lake Ontario and this part of the river to its present level, thus exposing to view the Milles Isles, which are but little more than barren rocks, also the great ridge road as is called, the supposed bank of Lake Ontario. This supposition will also account for the cutting in two of some islands by the current, and the alteration of the course of the current, which is very evident about the Long Sault. That island was probably joined to Baxter's, and others again below to the Long Sault. And the river below again has more the appearance of increase than diminution, while here the contrary is the fact. 2 Finish our business with Mr. Sewell, leave there at 10 o'clock p.m. and reach camp at 1 . Mr. Thompson and myself have a conversation upon the subject of Darby's erroneous work. He had detected the errors, upon the knowledge of which I made him acquainted with the whole truth. He express'd perfect willingness to arrange the affair in any way Mr. Adams tho't best, and to give up the map for a corrected one should Mr. Adams require or wish it. July 15th. High wind from N.E. 12 or 14 schooners pass up the river in the morning. Clear and cool, rather smoky atmosphere. Col. Hawkins returns to camp. Make copies of last proceedings of Board and Mr. Adams' note to the Board, on the subject of the parallel of the 45 N. latitude. July 16. Clear and pleasant, light breeze from S.S.W. In the morn- ing have some laughable sport by taking fish after dosing them with Coclicus Indicus. Mixing it pulverized into a bread paste we threw in small pieces in an eddy off our island. The fish showed the first symptoms of their derangement, by swimming near the surface, then confining themselves to a small circuit, then darting in any direction with an apparent attempt to rise from the water: in the whole a most ludicrous scene. The effect produced upon the fish is more that of the exhilirating ammoniacal gas upon man than anything else. It does not disable, but rather excites with increased energies the odd conceits of the animal impregnated. 1 Schistose rock, sometimes spelled shistose, or shistous. 2 The Mss. here contains the words: "Mem. Massena Point — Mitchell's theory probable." 200 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Col. Hawkins and myself have a long talk upon the prospects of the Commission and the plans to be pursued the next winter. He concludes solemnly that before the adjournment of the next Congress, he will act in his true character as Agent, or try the last winter's ground over again more seriously than he did then. Our conjectures about certain speculations doubtful on my part, he seemed to credit them. Mem. Sam. Sherwood, Judge Atwater. In the afternoon cross to the camp with Col. Hawkins who goes to Brockville. Return in the evening with a full chorus of Canadian boatmen whose plein chant made the islands ring with their wild notes. At night a mild warm rain. July 17th. Clear and warm, a little wind from the N.E.; calm most of the day. At noon Fraser & Darby, after boarding the steam boat as it pass'd down, stop at our island. Mr. Darby acquaints me with his intention of taking his passage in the steam boat tomorrow for Niagara to see Gen'l Porter. He learned last night thro Mr. Bird that his last work was the subject of a resurvey by Mr. Adams and Mr. Bird, and that without his knowledge. Takes great offence and resolves to quit the work. Mr. Darby, on my statement of Mr. Adams' views, agreed that it was the secret manner, not the fact of a resurvey, which he felt himself right in complaining about, and that this was done after his own request to have Mr. Bird resurvey his work below had been denied him by Mr. Adams. Finish Cuvier's Theory of the Earth with Mitchell's Appendix. Highly gratified and instructed by his learned and sublime essay. Preserve several specimens of shrubs & flowers for an account of which see Hortus Siccus and Index thereto. This neighborhood abounds with the berry fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries (service June or shad berries as called in different places) and the whortleberry. The gentian plant, wild ipecacuanha 1 and a species of sambucus bearing a red berry are the peculiar plants of this section. Great quantities of fish pass down the river, constantly leaping out of the water. Their progress is always with the current. Quere: whether the large fish do not descend to the salt water? And how far up the river do the sea fish ascend? Mr. Adams stays the night with me to avoid Darby. July 1 8th. Clear and pleasant, fresh breeze from the S.W. Mr. Darby is put on board the steamboat Ontario, he having resolved of his own accord to quit the survey. He assures me that he does not intend here- after to disturb the animosities that have existed between him and Mr. Adams, that they could both injure one another, but that on his part 1 This plant is probably Trios teum Perfoliatum L. sometimes called Wild Ipecac, a weedy plant having medicinal qualities, growing from Canada south to Illinois. BOOK THREE 201 their differences should be kept from the public. I vouched for Mr. Adams' disposition on this subject, and told him, so long as he refrained from attempts to injure Mr. Adams, he might rest satisfied he would never be injured by Mr. Adams, that his public works under Mr. Adams, if given to the world, would condemn & perhaps ruin him. He states that he tho't that he could equally if not more sensibly injure Mr. Adams but gave his solemn assurance that no attempts would be made by him. Mr. Darby left us with apparent regret & express'd much attachment to all the party, but Mr. Adams. Majr. Fraser & Rich'd 1 dine & spend the evening with us. Mr. Adams joins us at sun set. He made his remonstrance to the Agent against Mr. Darby and ask'd for relief from his insolence and abuse; and is told by the Agent that in the situation he is left by the Board, he cannot be justified to act in the premises at all. At night heavy showers of rain. July 19th. Cloudy morning, clears off at noon with wind from the S.W. Mrs. Hawkins, Miss Sherwood & Mr. Sherwood spend the day with us, from Brockville. They are highly gratified with our camp life, as well as surprised with the comforts they find in our establishment. Mr. Sherwood is a King's Surveyor and would like to fill the vacancy made by Mr. Darby's absence. July 20th. Sultry calm morning. In the evening Col. Hawkins & Lady leave the island, and take with them a boat load 6f baggage previous to the breaking up of the establishment, which is contemplated immediately, agreeably to the friendly understanding that existed be- tween Gen'l Porter & Col. Hawkins. Mr. Adams remains for the night on the island with me, in preference to the camp on the maine. We have a frank conversation about the various quarrels, mutinies, vex- ations & difficulties that at present agitate the camp and him. He de- clares himself most unhappily situated; says that all the party in the other camp he feels of late to be inimical to him; ascribes it in some of them to his forbearance with Mr. Darby when he so blackguardly vilified and abused him in the presence of them all. He is confirmed in his own mind as to the rectitude of that forbearance. Says the present state of things he cannot endure, and that a change must soon take 1 Richard Delafield. An entry in the Journal under the meeting of June 1, 1818, p. 25 says: "Richard Delafield, as Draftsman, to receive three dollars a day for his services from the first day of May to the tenth day of November of this year, and to have his ex- penses defrayed whilst actually employed." He took the oath on June 1, 181 8, and the form of oath is on file in the National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, En- velope III, Folder 3, no. 12. He was a younger brother of Major Joseph Delafield, in 1818 graduated at West Point of which he was for two periods the Superintendent, and became Chief of Engineers of United States Army during the Civil War with the grade of Brigadier General. 202 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY place to relieve him in some manner. Intimates Majr. Fraser 's animos- ity toward him; that he knows not what control he has in the Com- mission; that Gen'l Porter left him without instructions, and without even saying one word as to his responsibilies, or his future arrange- ments; that his men mutiny and he has no redress; that in short he must soon have an issue which will set the matter right, by his retiring or otherwise. He approves of my assurance to Mr. Darby that if he remains quiet he has nothing to fear from Mr. Adams; suspects how- ever that the public will soon be made acquainted with our affairs thro Mr. Darby and intends to be prepared to meet any attacks from that quarter. I read to Mr. Adams a copy of my letter to Gen'l Porter, sent by Mr. Darby, which he sanctions. Make these remarks concern- ing the state of our camp rather to remember them than attach much consequence to them. Capt. Sherwood acquaints me with the fact that during the winter he as well as the people generally in this country, preserve their fresh meats by packing them down in barrels of snow, which instantly freeze, and so remains for months if not exposed to the sun. July 21. Cloudy morning, with showers, wind S.W. Strike the Mar- quee and tents, and send the whole of the establishment (excepting a few articles which I retain for my use in the other camp) to Brockville from whence they are to be forwarded to Sacket's Harbor. Proceed with the last boat load to Brockville, and spend the remainder of the day with Col. & Mrs. Hawkins at Mr. Hall's house. In the afternoon Majr. Fraser & Mr. Bird come to Brockville for the purpose of ascer- taining the truth of an aspersion against them, said to be made by Col. Hawkins, reported by T. Clinton: to wit that Col. Hawkins had said that Clinton had been instigated and advised by the gentlemen of the camp, to institute the suit he had lately bro't against the Col. A long- explanation takes place, and Majr. Fraser & Col. Hawkins confer at the same time upon the other topics of dispute & difficulty: a great bluster made about this disagreeable affair. From the tenor of all that has transpired it is feared that it is the intention of Majr. Fraser to get Mr. Adams out of the Commission if he can, a most lamentable con- clusion, for his services can not be rendered by but few men in the coun- try. Resolve to save him if practicable. He will certainly save himself with all who understand the long length of perplexities that continue to dis- grace us. My own situation at this stormy moment is very peculiar; con- nected in duties with Col. Hawkins, as well as by every tie of friendship, his positions are mostly mine; with Genl. Porter good friendship, altho his differences with Col. Hawkins are nearly irreconcilable; and I am known to be advised with by both. With Mr. Adams, Fraser, and Bird a close friendship exists, between me & each of them and still the two BOOK THREE 203 latter have bitter animosities against the former, and I am the avowed adviser and confident of all three. July 22. Clear and pleasant, wind S.W. All things being in readiness to move the camp to the next section of survey. Rich'd Delafield comes for me, and I leave Brockville. Col. Hawkins joins the party about 1 1 a.m. and we proceed upwards. After passing the groups of islands first above Brockville, about 7 miles, the islands commence again, and become innumerable to the traveller. Jibway, by some called Chippe- way Bay, begins here. The river is swelled into a lake, so filled with islands that the maine shore cannot be distinguished, and contracts again about the head of Grenadier Island. The islands are gen- erally of granite rock, sometimes stratified in horizontal lamina, some- times perpendicular, and frequently broken into cubes. Occasionally are found rocks of sand stone. The American shore from Hague up- wards is very rough and rocky: all that is apparent is barren and un- promising. In Jibway Bay Mr. Parish has erected a large stone house to which purchasers of the iron ware from Rossie may repair. His forge is 6 or 7 miles in the rear. At night we enter a little basin in one of these rude and craggy islands, and, after a good supper on the fish caught by trowling on the way, make our beds under the trees and by a good fire take our rest. Are disturbed during the night by the approach of some animal whose noise was unknown to us. A young fawn that we kept with us as a pet probably attracted him. July 23. A clear and pleasant day. Proceed on with our boats &c. at day break, and stop about 10 o'clock on a clearing on Wells Island, three miles from its lower end where we await the arrival of Mr. Thompson, who with Mr. Adams would so conclude upon the limits of their sections as to enable us to fix upon a proper place for our camp. They having found about the foot of Wells Island a good place for a base line, it is agreed that Mr. Adams commence and Mr. Thompson leave off at this point. Encamp on a small island opposite Wells Island & in the centre of this channel looking up the narrows, 8 or 10 miles. Mr. Adams & myself were alone in his barge and we had much conversation concern- ing his unpleasant situation. I plainly told him the faults that Majr. Fraser thought he had reason to complain of, and during the day perceived a disposition on his part to sacrifice every private feeling for the welfare of the work. The same was understood by Majr. Fraser & he promised me to write to the Gen'l saying there was now every reason to believe that harmoney would be restored. At night rain. July 24. Cloudy with some rain, very high wind from S.W. Steam boat passes at 6 a.m., Mr. & Mrs. Payne on board. In the afternoon cross to the American maine and make a salt lick for the deer which 204 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY appear to be very plentiful. Mr. Hassler's son arrives from St. Regis with letters from his father and Mr. Bradley asking the use of our re- peating circle, a gust of wind having blown over their tents and tables, and destroyed their circle. Mr. Adams sends his under the charge of young Hassler on board a schooner as far as Prescott, well pleased to get rid of an instrument of great cost & delicacy and no use in his hands. 1 July 27. Morning cloudy, wind S.W.; increases to a fresh breeze as usual about 9 o'clock. Set off with Majr. Fraser to visit the neighbor- hood below us where the surveyors are at work. After leaving them pro- ceed to an island called Yeo's Island. It is about a mile below Wells Island and toward the Canada shore: is nearly one solid rock of granite of a semi-oval form rising upwards of 100 ft. from the water. On its summit you have a splendid view of the adjacent country, river & islands. Here are found large rocks of white quartz with black tourmaline and mica. Several specimens are preserved. Sumac, wild ipecacuanha, and the largest whortle berries I have yet seen cover the hollows in this pile of rock. There is the appearance of its having supported consider- able timber, which has been cut down and burned on the island, probably by order of some officer of the British forces, as the place is a most favorable position for a look-out post. The granite appears to be based on a red sand stone. It is sometimes stratified, sometimes not. July 28. Wind rises from the S.W. about 8 o'clock a.m., clear and pleasant. Remain on the island at the foot of the narrows in camp. At night heavy thunder storm and some sharp lightening. July 29. At day break a heavy thunder shower with lightning. Wind N.E., changes about 9 o'clock to S.W. Majr. Fraser and myself set off at noon for Gravelly Point, 30 miles from our camp. South of the head of Wells Island commences a group of small islands which extend about 5 miles. Then Grind Stone Island in a range with Grande Isle or Long Island with a few small ones nearly connecting them close the long list. Grande Isle, called 26 miles in length, extends 3 miles beyond Kingston. On our shore the river is very open, between Grand Island and the maine. Carleton Island intervenes with one or two others of inconsiderable consequence. Carleton Island is a very valuable tract. Arrive at Gravelly Point or Cape Vincent at dusk. The maine for 10 miles below is flat land and much cleared on the water; farms look better than any on this side; is in Jefferson County. The village at the point 2 is improving and I think promises much. A large stone house is putting up for a tavern. Young La Ray is also building 1 Entries for July 25 and 26 merely remark on the weather. 2 "The village at the point" is probably Cape Vincent. BOOK THREE 205 an extensive stone house. A town has been lately laid off called Lyma. Was formerly in Brownville. The latter is 20 miles distant. La Ray & Gen'l Brown principal proprietors. Catch on our way up a large mess of fine black bass and a muskilonge of 10 or 12 lbs. by trowling with a red rag. July 30th. Leave Gravelly Point at 8 o'clock with a fair fresh wind from S.S.W. and arrive at camp at 1 o'clock. Cloudy during the day, weather pleasantly temperate. July 3 1 . Genl. Porter arrives unexpectedly in the steam boat which passes at 6 o'clock in the morning. A clear and pleasant day; wind rises fresh from the S.W. about 10 o'clock. Visit Yeo's Island, the British camp and neighboring country with the Genl. He informs me of his interview with Mr. Darby on Mr. D's arrival at Black Rock, of Mr. Darby's impudence and his rebuke to him. He was glad to get rid of him and anticipated the difficulty. August 1. Clear and pleasant, wind rises from the S.S.W. about 8 o'clock. Gen'l Porter advises with me as to what duties will devolve upon me in his absence; instructs me to draw upon the cashier of the Branch Bank of U.S. for New York for such funds as may be needed, and to have a particular care in harmonizing the Canadians to Mr. Adams' discipline, the only difficulty which he anticipated. I am to dismiss one supernumerary and to employ any assistant surveyor that might be sent on in the same manner that Mr. Bird is now employed. At 8 o'clock p.m. the steam boat arrives, and Genl. Porter and Majr. Fraser take leave of us. Aug. 2. A hazy atmosphere but pleasant temperature, wind S.S.W., light. All the party in camp spending the Sunday in pleasantries and quiet; rain at night. Aug. 3d. Messrs. Adams & Bird, with their respective crews, re- turn to the survey at the foot of Wells Island. Aug. 4th. Remain in camp engaged with the Journal of the Board, copying same to form Agent's Journal. Genl. Brown and suite descend the river in a schooner, and hail me from on board; do not stop because accompanied by ladies. Many schooners pass up with a fair wind. Aug. 5th. Messrs. Adams & Bird set off to the lower end of the Wells Island, to survey the channels on the Canada side, taking with them every thing requisite to remain out during the rest of the week. Two canoes of Onondago Indians stop on our island; are more filthy and not so well looking as the tribes on this river. High wind from the W.S.W. (being directly thro the narrows, at the foot of which we are encamped on an island about central) , obliges us to adopt precautions against the blowing away of our tents &c. Evening cloudy, wind variable; storm of wind and rain from the N.E. commences about mid- night. 2o6 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Aug. 6th. At 3 o'clock in the a.m. the violence of the storm blows in the side of my Marquee exposed to the N.E. and deluges the con- tents. Secure the Journals and some papers and deposit them in Richard's tent. With the help of a servant I move my baggage, books, bedding & every thing that is damageable, enjoying in our shirt tails a most furious shower bath ! At day break discover that but little dam- age had been done and that my Marquee had suffered most from its high position. Resolve after breakfast to quit so inhospitable an island & seek some more friendly shore. At 12 o'clock we get under way, with the assistance of the servants and 2 Canadians, the rest of the party being out on duty. Are deceived as to the head of Wells Island and after reconnoitring in vain for a habitable place among the group of islands in which we had arrived, I came to with the flotilla and lodged on a small island which we afterwards learned to be about one mile above Wells Island. Aug. 7. At sun rise reconnoitre the river and discover a passage thro the islands to the head of Wells Island, which is 3 or 4 miles wide at its head & has deep bays setting in, with islands running into the mouths of them, so that the channel thro' from maine to maine cannot be seen but on close approach. Find a clearing on the South side of Wells Island near its head. Repair there with the boats and baggage and pitch the tents and have the camp in order by sun set. Dispatch Clinton in the morning with letters to Mr. Adams and Bird, apprising them of our removal and the cause. Aug. 8th. Complete every requisite about the camp, which proves a very beautiful as well as comfortable place. Messrs. Adams and Bird return in the evening, and make report of their survey on the N. channel of Wells Island, extremely laborious and tedious owing to increased number of islands. Aug. 9th. The whole party in camp resting from the fatigues of the week (Sunday). Mr. Adams leaves us toward evening for the purpose of visiting the British camp below and exchanging maps, thus saving such an errand on a working day. He remains below at night, in order to be near his work in the morning. Aug. 10th. Between 2 and 3 a.m. am aroused from my sleep by the crashing of the steam boat Ontario on a shoal of rocks opposite the camp (near head of Wells Island) and about the middle of the river, run on by bad pilotage. All exertions to get her off fail til the evening when by lightening the boat she is warped off without serious injury. Mr. Channing and Mr. Cleveland, passangers, spend the day with me. At night send Clinton, the steward, to Ogdensburgh for provisions in a Denham boat that leaves the steam boat after her relief. Aug. nth. Remain in camp engaged with Agent's Journal &c. Aug. 1 2th. As yesterday. BOOK THREE 207 Aug. 1 3th. Heavy showers with a gale of wind employ us through- out the day in adopting precautions for the safety of our boats and tents. At sunset a furious gale from the W.S.W. which continues most of the night. Aug. 14. Leave the camp for the Canada shore for the purpose of obtaining provisions, and examining the channel on that side of Wells Island. There are 4 or 5 clearings on the maine, where may be had some vegetables. As for the channel, it can only be explained by the map, so numerous and irregular are the islands. In the afternoon on our return find Col. Hawkins in camp. Aug. 15th. Col. Hawkins, self & Rich'd Delafield examine the opposite shore and return to dine. In the evening Messrs. Adams & Bird return to camp from their week's tour of duty, which was spent in surveying the pass between Wells Island and Roux's Island, or, as it is called, the lake in Wells Island. It is a singular formation. Vide map. Aug. 16. The whole party in camp (Sunday) ; cool evening, Thermr. 54 at 9 p.m. Aug. 17th. Messrs. Adams and Bird leave the camp at 7 a.m. for a week's tour of duty on the Canada side of Wells Island. Cool morn- ing, Thermr. at 6 a.m. at 44 ; wind W. The season now appears to be decidedly changed and high winds and cool nights and mornings commence. Aug. 18. Go to Gannanauque in the afternoon passing around the head of Grindstone Island. This island is far better than Wells Island for cultivation & has much clearing upon it, and families. It is also claimed by Wells under Indian title. Gannanauque 1 is on a barren flat rock covered with very little soil; about a dozen houses. An ex- cellent saw mill belonging to a Yankee by the name of McDonald is on the Gannanauque River which runs back to the township of Bas- tard, spreads into small lakes and extends about 70 miles. By passing 3 short rapids this river is said to communicate near Kingston. Col. Stone the proprietor of Gannanauque on one side the creek and Sir John Johnstone 2 on the other, apparently of no other promise than for a few mill seats. Return to camp at midnight thro the channel in Eel Bay. Aug. 19th. Remain in camp. 1 Gananoque. * Sir John Johnson, Bart, son of Sir William Johnson, born at his father's house "Mount Johnson" on the Mohawk River, New York, November 5, 1742. He suc- ceeded to his father's great estate and tide in 1 774. He took sides against the colonists. After the Revolution his estates were confiscated, but he became prominent and wealthy in Canada, and died there January 4, 1830. 208 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Aug. 20th. Col. Hawkins and self go to Gannanauque to meet Mrs. Hawkins who had arrived in British steam boat from Brockville. Find there Mr. Pierpont 1 of N. York; remain at night. Aug. 21. Mr. Pierpont accompanies me to camp. Col. & Mrs. Hawkins proceed up the river in the barge for Kingston &c. Mr. Pierpont is interested in our surveys, being joint proprietor with others of the islands. Show him the maps &c. Learned from Mr. Jones of Brockville whom I met at Gannanauque that Gomley was to be tried the ensuing week at Brockville for a libel on the government; that he had been acquitted the past week in Kingston on a similar prosecution, where the populace had carried him (on hearing of the verdict) upon their shoulders to a hotel, where a public dinner was given him. He states that Leeds County, in which is Brockville, is considered the most disaffected in the Province; that y^ or y^ of its population is American and that about that number left there during the war and have since returned with others from the States. A Mr. Simpson has replied to Mr. Gomley in pamphlet, and given Mr. Gomley in my opinion a fine opportunity to advance a bold step further in his plan of reform or revolution. This appears to be the commencement of a bright dawn for the Canadas, which has a strong promise of a rapidly increasing light. Receive by American steam boat some hams & cheese from Gennessee River. Aug. 22. Take Mr. Pierpont & son to the British channel, crossing the head of Wells Island from camp, for the purpose of boarding the British steam boat. Spend 2 or 3 hours with Mr. Adams waiting for the boat. Mr. Adams shows Mr. Pierpont his maps and promises him such information & assistance as he may desire. Mr. Pierpont resolves to abide by our survey in taking out patents for the islands, and to discontinue individual surveys for the future, satisfied that he cannot, but by our maps, obtain an accurate knowledge of this strange con- figuration of land and water. Leave him on board steam boat and ar- rive at camp in the afternoon when Col. Ogilvy calls on me. He states that they are about closing their section below and will move upwards to Sir John's Island on Wednesday next. Messrs. Adams & Bird return to camp in the evening. Send Clinton to Gravelly Point by the Ameri- can steam boat, which passes us at 8 o'clock p.m., for letters &c. Aug. 23. All the party in camp (Sunday). Col. Hawkins' barge 1 Hezekiah Beers Pierrepont, merchant, who was born in New Haven, Conn, in 1768. He married Anna, daughter of William Constable of New York, partner of Alexander Macomb, and thus acquired a great landed estate of about 500,000 acres in northern New York. He bought the Benson farm of about sixty acres on Brooklyn Heights and established his family there. BOOK THREE 209 and his three boatmen arrive in camp in the afternoon from Kingston, having been discharged by the Col. at Kingston with instructions to leave the boat with me. Put the 3 men on board a batteaux same after- noon going down to the river to their respective residences. The Col. and Lady intending to pass most of the time at Kingston til the meeting of the Board at Buffalo &c. Aug. 24. Messrs. Adams & Bird leave camp early in the morning for a week's tour of duty,being still engaged on the North side of Wells Island. Aug. 25. Remain in camp engaged with Agent's Journal; complete same. Aug. 26. Explore both American and Grind Stone Island shore from camp on Wells Island to head of Grindstone Island, in search of a place for the next encampment, and fix upon a point being the most southern on Grindstone Island, near its head. It is well sheltered in front from the S.W. winds by a grove of pine trees, has a good harbor for our boats on its N.E. side and is otherwise desirable. In the afternoon discover a fine buck in the river opposite camp, chased by two fishermen in a skiff. He is near making his escape when I set off, and approach within a few yards before they seize him by the horns after beating him with their oars. The deer at this season are in their red coat, and their horns in velvet; next month they are in a blue coat, and in the fall in their grey coat. In their red coat (as now) if shot dead in the river they sink instantly. Their other coats are more buoyant and prevent them sinking. Aug. 27. Engaged in camp. Aug. 28. As yesterday. Steam boat passes down at sun rise and leaves 4 blls. pork. Aug. 29th. As yesterday. In the evening Messrs. Adams and Bird return to camp leaving off their work for the week in the bay on the Canada shore opposite the head of Wells Island. Learn from them that their crews had been rather sulky owing to the instigation of Bero, a Canadian. Acquaint those gentlemen that I will at any moment dis- charge any man who is disobedient or disorderly & can furnish others readily, so that they need not humor them in any way. Aug. 30th. All the party in camp. We reconnoitre the ground about the camp, and Mr. Adams concludes that a base line can be cut here, upon which he can verify and conclude the work of this sec- tion. Richard agrees to have it opened for him during the coming week with the help of the servants in camp. August 31st. Pay off and discharge Bero. Messrs. Adams and Bird leave us for a week's tour. Mr. Adams lands Bero on the Canada shore. 210 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Work on the base line and in the course of the day have it cleared sufficiently to see objects thro the woods at the two extremes. Septr. i . Engaged with the base line. Septr. 2. As yesterday. In the afternoon of ist inst. Capt. Mallaby arrived from the harbor in Commodore Woolsey's 1 gig to meet David A. Ogden, whom, it was stated, he would find at this time at our camp. Capt'n Mallaby spends the night with me. Capt. Mallaby's arrival should have been under date of the ist inst. He left us this morning after breakfast, Mr. Ogden not having arrived. Sepr. 3. Cross to the opposite side of Wells Island, and find Mr. Adams and Mr. Bird at work in a bay filled with little islands which lies abreast of the head of Wells Island and 2^ miles below Ganna- noque, a most dismal prospect for Mr. Bird and his theodolite. He had, however, finished the most difficult part of it and, as he said, began to see light thro the darkness. He is entitled to much credit for his industry, perseverance and skill in his survey of this part of the river. Mr. Adams had been to see Mr. Thompson and found him in camp on Sir John's Island. Col. Ogilvy he found had established the limits of his section; had fixed upon the head of Grind Stone Island, the foot of Sir John's Island & 2 miles below Briton's Point, as the lower limit of his section, consequently upper limit of ours. He expected to include all of Grande Isle in his survey, and to extend his section to Point Peninsula and above Kingston. Advise Mr. Adams to propose very strenuously (as soon as he completes this section) that he commence on the one side of Grande Isle, it being the only island of much consequence in the river. He says he will do so & that if they have not surveyed both sides before he is ready to move, he will commence on that side which they have left undone. Sepr. 4th. Engaged in camp copying maps of the river for my own use. Send Clinton to Cape Vincent for our mail, to return tomorrow; is 20 miles from camp. Sepr. 5. As yesterday. Messrs. Adams and Bird return to camp at night. Mr. Bird's theodolite requires repair previous to further survey. Sepr. 6. All the party in camp (Sunday). About 2 o'clock Clinton returns from Gravelly Point with the mail, bringing with him Majr. Fraser whose arrival there had detained him one day longer. Make over to Majr. Fraser the key of the chest containing the records, with all its contents, left under my charge except an unfinished map by 1 Commodore Melancthon Tyler Woolsey, born in New York in 1782. Entered the U. S. Navy in 1800. Served on the Great Lakes through the War of 181 2. Was in command at Sacket's Harbor till 1824. BOOK THREE 211 Mr. Adams of the section of survey containing the upper part of Long Sault, Baxter's Island, &c. which he had taken for the purpose of com- pleting. Explain same to Majr. Fraser in presence of Mr. Adams. Mr. Adams offered to return map to me, but Majr. Fraser took the loan upon himself or considered it as of his own arrangement, whereon I permit it to remain with Mr. Adams. Sepr. 7. Monday. Mr. Adams proceeds to Kingston in his barge to endeavor to have Mr. Bird's theodolite repaired, one of its clamping screws having failed. Mr. Bird goes to Eel Bay and sets station for his future work. Sepr. 8th. All absent but Fraser, Rich, and self. Sepr. 9th. As yesterday. Mr. Adams comes to camp to breakfast, having lodged in Eel Bay the night previous returning from Kingston. Has the theodolite repaired to answer, he thinks, for the season. Sepr. 10th. Having settled my accounts with Clinton (steward) for expenses during my charge of the camp, prepared to leave them, and in the afternoon set off in a barge and 2 men for Kingston. Majr. Fraser accompanies me, intending to cross to Gravelly Point for the mail after leaving me at Kingston. Lodge at night at British camp on Sir John's Island, 1 lower end. Mr. Adams only in camp, Col. Ogilvy in Montreal, Mr. Thompson and Mr. Stevenson encamping out for the first time, it having been their custom always to sleep in camp. Find a large cluster of islands about Gannanoquey included in our section, which inclines me to believe that little else can be done by our party than conclude their section this season. Sepr. 1 ith. Breakfast in British camp & at 7 o'clock proceed in our boat towards Kingston where we arrive at 1 o'clock p.m. Kingston has increased rapidly since the war. The stone used for buildings is hand- some and at hand, a hard, laminated lime stone or marble. The 76th Regt. is now there. A company of players from Montreal perform a poor set. "God Save the King" is called for repeatedly, apparently to vex the Americans. It becomes offensive and a row being in embryo, I leave the house, rather than listen to more music than there was recitation. See but few genteel people in or about Kingston. It contains say 2000 people, and a Catholic and an English Church. Scotch & English prevail. Gomley has many friends here. Sepr. 1 2th. Embark at 10 o'clock in a schooner for Sacket's Harbor, taking the boat in tow to land Fraser on the American shore. Wind S.E. Mr. Draine, Mr. Thayer and Mrs. Blaquiere of the Province's pas- sengers. In the afternoon wind increases to a gale & finding it im- possible to beat to windward, make a harbor in Horse Shoe Bay formed 1 Sir John Johnson, see p. 207. 2i2 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY by Simcoe's and Grande Isle. We lie here very quiet; rain commences and storm continues to rage during the night. Objecting to the small, dirty cabin, we sleep on deck making a covering of the sails. Mrs. Blaquiere, who proves as agreeable and intelligent an acquaintance as she is a lovely woman, puts herself under my protection for the night. Using the boom for a ridge pole, make an excellent little tent, with part of the main sail, aside of the companion way, and, with my buffalo skin for a bed and a supply of cloaks, am fortunate enough to keep Mrs. Blaquiere perfectly dry and comfortable during the night. Our mutual uneasinesses prevented much sleep, but we were greatly rejoiced to have shelter and rest during the turbulence of a furious storm. Mr. Thayer, the protector of my new travelling friend (Mrs. Blaquiere), being very sea sick affords me an opportunity to continue useful to the lady; altho unaccustomed to exposure, she braves the perils of the storm and the terrors of her new situation with the greatest confidence & fortitude and without inconvenience. Sepr. 13. As the storm still continues to rage, it is thought best to return to Kingston. We reach there at 10 o'clock, and repair to Moore's Coffee House, where we are much restored by a good breakfast &c. In the evening the storm abates. Our fellow travellers from the Province uncertain of reaching the harbor in time for the steam boat, take the Charlotte Sm. Boat for Bay of Quints, and thence by land to York. Mrs. Blaquiere unwilling to undertake so fatiguing a jaunt waits for the Frontignac, which boat is absent and kept out of her ordinary trip by the new governor, the Duke of Richmond. We spend our evening together very sociably and with reluctance I take leave of the only Canadian I had yet met with whose society made either the one prov- ince or the other any way agreeable to me. At night Majr. Fraser falls in company with some officers and others at the tavern, who become heated in their conversation upon national topics, which ends in Majr. Fraser stopping the clamor of their many tongues, by the only argu- ment which he could then well use, an appeal to arms! Some of them, having reason enough remaining to perceive that mischief might grow out of the brawl, exerted it to pacify the others, and the affair was drowned in their wine! Sepr. 14th. Leave Kingston at 6 o'clock in the morning in the same schooner in which we first embarked, with a promise of a good wind. Wind rises ahead and light until evening when, changing to the S.W. and blowing hard, we run into Sacket's Harbor by 2 o'clock at night. There are 3 packet boats now plying between these places, small schoo- ners, and they are well supported. A steam boat is built for this ferriage and will ply the next season. Sepr. 15. Land from the packet early in the morning and breakfast BOOK THREE 213 at the Mansion House kept by Woodbury. It is a neat house and better kept than any other in the place; from its air of gentility the rabble avoid it. The weather still continues blustering and cloudy. The ap- pearance of a heavy storm and the high wind blowing keeps all the boats in the harbor. Capt. Mallaby calls on me with a letter out of the Post Office here from home, a month old, which he had set out with for our camp on a visit in his gig, but was driven back by the weather. The public vessels here are fast going to decay. 1 One, the Jefferson, lies sunk, others are badly hog'd and look like ruins. At Kingston they are kept in much better order and now and then get a covering of paint to keep them bright. Their large ship is badly hog'd. The two large vessels on the stocks are not under cover; their frames are nearly or quite complete; they are three deckers beside the gun deck. Their navy yard is a strong place. The fort on Point Frederic commands the yard, the town & neighboring country. A high ridge of land leads to this fort from the rear or N. & N.E. It can be approached that way, or by its left bastion on a ridge nearly or quite as high as the ground on which the work stands. There is a small rocky island half a mile distant in front of the fort, which is high, but does not command the fort. They continue to improve their works. At Sacket's Harbor there are no works of any consequence. The fort at the marine barracks and near the Madison barracks are light works. Sacket's Harbor has improved very much. The large stone hotel (unoccupied) is an elegant building and would ornament any city. This has been a training day for the militia of the county, who assembled at Brownville. At night the young men of this place return, come to the Mansion House and keep up their frolic to the fear and disturbance of all who would sleep. The Indian dance and war whoop was their particular amusement, which fortu- nately soon wore them out, and it became quiet by midnight. The stage leaves Watertown for Utica every Monday & Thursday, so that you must ride there the evening before, a distance of 12 miles. A stage waits at the harbor for that purpose. The packet boats from this to Kingston take for freight mostly live stock & vegetables for the Kingston market. Take my seat in the stage to Watertown to start 4 o'clock 1 6th inst: write to Col. Hawkins & Gen'l Porter to acquaint them of my departure. Sepr. 1 6th. Cloudy, Tempe. modr., light rain. At 4 o'clock p.m. leave Sacket's Harbor and passing thro Brownville lodge at Water- town. At Brownville there are fine mill seats, a woolen and cotton manufactory &c. Sepr. 17. Leave Watertown at 2 a.m., breakfast at Denmark, dine The Rush-Bagot Treaty of April 28, 1818, may account for vessels falling into decay. 2i4 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY at Mariam's, and lodge in Utica at Bagg's. The whole of the road on this route is pretty well cleared and settled. About the towns only, however, do the clearings generally speaking extend beyond half a mile from the road. Made inquiry concerning the Jerseyfield lots. There are no clearings whatever that I could hear of upon them. Trenton is the town nearest to them on the road and is 6 or 7 miles from them. The people here knew but little about the soil. Col. Lamb who travelled with me from Water town owns lands adjoining in Law- rence. They are all wild and lie in a cold district. He would sell he said for yi dollar pr. acre. The land is apparently covered with hard wood mostly; some hemlocks show their tops, but not numerous. On further inquiry in Utica learn that there are several settlements upon the Jerseyfield tract, that the land is generally good, that Trenton which is the nearest town to this tract is fast settling by the Welsh emigrants, that many stop there. This town is probably from 6 to 8 miles distant from the Jerseyfield lots. Mr. Breeze of Utica (clerk) has lots in Jerseyfield and is said to have a map. Robt. McGomb is said to own a lot. Col. Lamb promised to send me a map. Sepr. 1 8th. Remain in Utica and examine the canal for about two miles from the town. Within half a mile from Utica it crossed a creek, throwing a strong stone arch of masonry over it, and filling up the valley perfecting the level so that no lock is required. The contracts are taken for the whole route that has been laid out for the workmen, at present, to wit, from Utica to Seneca Lake. Many more offers were made than were wanted. 2000 men are employed on this route and the excavations and finishing are progressing rapidly and successfully. The smaller creeks are passed over by iron culverts of different diameters. Those which I saw near Utica were 2^ & 3 ft. The contracts were taken at the rate of from 121^ to 14 cents per square yard. They are again let to sub-contractors for a trifle less. Overseers appointed by the Commissioners superintended the work. A distance of 2 miles was finishing to give the governor a ride upon his visit to the canal this fall. Many of the farmers thro whose lots the work pass'd complained much; others favor'd the work. The Commissioners have agreed to build bridges in such instances as where they have divided farms. The people of Utica appeared generally to be pleased with the project. Sepr. 19th. Mr. Wadsworth 1 of Gennesee & myself take an extra carriage and ride to Herkimer to shorten the next days ride to Sche- 1 James Wadsworth, born at Durham, Conn, in 1 768, graduated Yale in 1 787 and in 1 790 removed to Genesee River, New York, where he became a great landed pro- prietor and established his family. BOOK THREE 215 nectady. Mr. Porter of Utica joins us. At Herkimer meet with Mr. Goodrich, 1 an old collegiate acquaintance, now a professor of Yale College, on his way to the Falls &c. accompanied by young D wight, 2 who is a tutor to my surprise, a youth of about 23 years not matured for his age. Sepr. 20. The stage arrives at Herkimer about 6 a.m. and after breakfasting we proceed on our route and reach Schenectady about sun set. Sepr. 21. Leave Schenectady at 6 a.m. and reach Albany at 7. Leave Albany in the steam boat Chancellor Livingston at 10 a.m. Among the passengers was Mr. Lancaster, 3 the founder of schools bearing his name, or rather a system of schooling. He had disappointed the Albanians very much in a lecture delivered before them. They say he should have stayed at home to preserve his high reputation. Sepr. 22. Arrive in New York at 4 o'clock a.m. Among the steam boat travellers was also Mr. Darby, who had lately been discharged from our party on the boundary line. He was much exasperated against General Porter and Mr. Adams, and swore solemnly that they should account to him for their abuse and misusage of him. He told me he had seen Dewitt Clinton 4 in Albany and breakfasted with him, that DeWitt Clinton had subscribed for a dozen of his books that he in- tended preparing for the press. Express'd much friendship for every person attached to the Commission but General Porter & Mr. Adams; said that his connection with the Commission should form no part of his work, that he feared this winter he would be involved in a very disagreeable quarrel with Gen'l Porter and Mr. Adams. 6 Five Nations. The English had constantly encouraged the Savages to carry war into Canada, and Col. Dongan and others were their advisers and abettors. Smiths N. York Sepr. 23. In 1603 the French settled Canada — Waged war with the 1 Chauncey Allen Goodrich, born at Xew Haven in 1790 was the professor of rheto- ric and oratory at Vale. 2 William Theodore Dwight, born in Greenfield Hill, Conn, in 1795, graduated at Vale in 181 3 and was a tutor there, 1817-1819. He was a younger son of Timothy Dwight the president of Yale. 3 Joseph Lancaster, born in London in 1778. He established a system of schools and founded a number of them in England. In 181 8 he came to America where some schools using his system had already been established and after a few years went to Canada. 4 DeWitt Clinton, the Governor of New York, 1824 till his death in 1828. 'The Journal of July 24, 1822 says, under Oct. 1, 1818, p. 29: "Resolved that Mr. Wm. Darby and Mr. John Adams be considered respectively discharged from the service of the Board," Adams ''from the bad state of his health." 2l6 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Indians under Govt Courcelles in 1665. In 1672 the Govt erected a Fort at Cadaracqui now called Kingston. This fort was finished by Count Frontenac and took his name. In 1678 Mr. De la Salle rebuilt Fort Frontenac with stone and launched a vessel of 10 tons on Lake Ontario. In 1679 De ^ a Salle launched another vessel on Lake Erie of 60 tons about which time he inclosed a little spot at Niagara with Pallisadoes. 1684 De la Barre Govt of Canada marched 1700 men to Lake Ontario to punish the Seneca's for irruptions. 1693 6 or 700 French & Indians march from Montreal against the Mohawks & take Schenectady. 1697 The French make Treaty of Peace with the WELSH INDIANS On the Madwga commonly called Paduca River. Are of two tribes the Brigonee and the Madogee Indians, and are settied on two promontories called Keonau in Lat. about 48 N. & 80 W. Have the use of letters, and speak of their ancestors (in Wales) calling them by the name Brydon. Speak fine Welsh. Religion Druidical — First settled at Llechein now Lex- ington. The above facts are from the London Courrier of March 12. 181 9 & are given in a letter signed by Owen Williams Feed Merchant. Mem: to inquire as to facts of Col Ogilvy and other experienced traders & Voyaguers. No truth in above. Expenses fron Camp to N. York — Sepr. 12 Tavern bill at Kingston 3 " our Boatmen from Camp 1 Tavern Bill at Kingston being obligd to put into port there 4 Passage to Sts Harbor with expenses 3 for baggage at the harbor Tavern bill at Woodbury at Harbor, 2 dys 4 Stage fare to Watertown 1 Stage fare from W to Utica supper & lodging 7 Breakfast at Denmark Dinner at Mariam's Tavern expenses at Utica 3 Fare to Herkimer 2 lodging supper & breakfast at Herkimer 1 Fare to Utica 6 Dinner at Shepherds Supper & lodging at Schenectady Fare to Albany 1 Breakfast at Albany Steam Boat fare & tax to N. York 8 for Baggage 14 cc 16 17 « 18 J 9 20 cc 21 75 50 55 25 2 5 50 5° 50 50 37>* 50 75 50 25 BOOK FOUR May 25, i8ig to July 16, i8ig Tuesday, May 25, 18 19. Left New York at 5 p.m., in the steam boat Chancellor Livingston for the Boundary Line, and arrived in Albany the following day at 3 o'clock p.m. Wednesday, 26 May. Left Albany for Troy on a visit to Mr. Cush- man & family. A ferry boat is in operation at Troy upon a new prin- ciple, 1 is propelled by wheels, which are set in motion by two horses travelling on a large horizontal cylindrical wheel or circle. This circle revolves by the force of the horse's step, the horse constantly travelling on the same space, being his own length. This circle connected with the wheels of the boat, by simple machinery under the deck gives motion to the wheels & propels the boat (a common scow) across that ferry in 3^ to 5 minutes. Thursday, 27th. May. Return from Troy in the evening to Skinner's in Albany. Meet my old college chum, E. Baldwin, & we spend the evening together. Friday, 28th. May. Leave Albany in the mail stage at 3 o'clock in the morning for Utica, and arrive at Utica at sun set, being a dis- tance of 96 miles! The weather cold, a heavy frost was discernable til some time after sun rise, tender garden plants, apple trees &c. much injured. At Utica the frost not so severe as at Schenectady. Lodge at Bagg's. Saturday, 29th. May. Remain in Utica, there being no stage for Sacket's Harbor until Monday next. Stage for Sacket's Harbor leaves Utica every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning. Sunday, 30th. Remain at Utica. Monday, 31st. May. At 2 o'clock in the morning leave Utica for Watertown. Breakfast at Trenton which is the nearest town on this route to the Jerseyfield lands. Russia about 6 miles from Trenton is the nearest settlement to these lands & the road from Johnstown the most direct. There is a prejudice against the whole of the tract known as Brown's purchase, for its coldness &c. Arrive at 9 p.m. at Watertown. 1 This new ferry-boat. 218 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Tuesday, June i . Leave Watertown and arrive at Sacket's Harbor. Learn that Mr. Bird is at work on the islands off the Harbor, and about to finish. Wednesday, June 2d. Pass the day at the Harbor. Dine with Capt. Heaving at the barracks with mess. Mr. Bird and Mr. Ferguson 1 the two assistant surveyors come in from Grenadier Island having finished their labors at this end of the lake. The Lady of the Lake is ordered to take us to Niagara. Thursday, June 3. Make arrangements to sail from Sacket's Har- bor in the Lady of the Lake at 2 p.m. Judge Ogden & daughter & Mr. De Russy, our draughtsman, arrive in the stage. The Judge being appointed Commissioner to establish a site for a Light House sails with us accompanied by Mr. Adams & Mr. Mallaby of the Navy, for that purpose. Mr. Dominick & Mr. Ford go as officers of the vessel. At night come to off Stony Island and went on shore to sleep, Judge Ogden & daughter occupying one hut & the rest of us the other. This island has more than 100 acres cleared, and has some good land. Friday, June 4. Leave Stony Island at day break and sail for the Galloir, come to off Capt. Hill's. Examine the high land in the rear of his house, but it is thought too distant from the navigable waters to be a proper position for a Light House. Set sail after breakfast & come to again at the head of the same island. Here was established the Light House site. Sailed for Grenadier Island and in the afternoon took on board Mr. Bird & Mr. Ferguson with their camp equipage and their party, and got underway for Niagara. Put Judge Ogden & daughter on board the steam boat Ontario as she passes us bound to Ogdens- burgh, and Messrs. Adams & Mallaby leave us in their gig for the Harbor. From Sacket's Harbor to the mouth of the Niagara is called 160 miles. Saturday, June 5. Found ourselves about y 2 way by 8 a.m., the wind ahead. Soundings in 75 fathoms — mud bottom. Sunday, June 6. At 6 p.m. arrive at Niagara and land at Youngs- town. Sup & lodge at Hathaway's. In the evening call on Capt. Gates 2 at Fort Niagara, and make arrangements to have forwarded to Black Rock our camp equipage deposited there. Tried the experiment on our 1 James Ferguson, born in Scotland August 31, 1797 and died in Washington, D.C. Sept. 26, 1867. An engineer on the Erie Canal, 181 7-19 then an assistant sur- veyor on the Boundary Commission under the Treaty of Ghent and astronomical surveyor on the same Commission, 1822- 182 7. 2 William Gates, born in 1788 and graduated West Point in 1806. In the Florida War he personally captured the chief, Osceola, and later accompanied the Cherokees to the Indian Territory. Brevetted a Brigadier General in 1865 after his retirement from the army. BOOK FOUR 219 passage of sinking a bottle well stop'd. Closed the common junk bottle with a good cork, a thick coat of wax, and a tarr'd canvass secured by rope yarn. At 70 fathoms it was filled. The cork was started, and the wax broken but not driven in entirely. Monday, June 7. Leave Youngs town with Messrs. Bird, Ferguson & DeRussy. Proceed after breakfasting at Lewistown to the Falls, and ride to the camp on Goat Island 1 without leaving our waggon. The bridge appears perfectly safe. The island is of very rich soil and con- tains 70 acres. The bridge rests on 12 piers and is 900 ft. long. It rests or rather first reaches an island, which appears at some time to have been detached from Goat Island, and then another bridge extends to Goat Island, in length including island & both bridges, 900 feet. Mr. Bird and party encamp on Goat Island and wait instructions from the Commissioners. After examining the different views of the rapids and the Falls from Goat Island I proceed to Black Rock. In the evening wait upon Genl. Porter, and find there Col. Ogilvy and Col. Hale. Learn that the Board had held a meeting on Goat Island on Friday the 4th inst. Lodge at Berry's Steam Boat Hotel. Tuesday, June 8. Spend the day at Black Rock with Genl. Porter. Vessels are towed up from Black Rock to Buffalo by oxen. This is sailing with what the Buffalonians call a Horn Breeze. About 12 yoke take up the steam boat. Without a fresh and fair wind she cannot pass the rapids of Black Rock without a Horn Breeze. Black Rock is improv- ing more than any village I have pass'd this season. In the evening proceed to Buffalo, and lodge at Landen's. Wrote to Col. Hawkins to advise him of the proceedings of the Board and gave letter to Mr. Sher- wood to deliver. Wednesday, June 9. In the morning accompany Col. Jones & Lady to Black Rock to visit Genl. Porter and return to Buffalo to dinner, remain at Buffalo. Address to Col. Hawkins at Utica advising him of my being here. A large brig called the Wellington, sailed from Ft. Erie bound up the lake. Thursday, June 10. Accompany Col. Jones & Lady & Mr. Dix 2 to Black Rock to dine with Genl. & Mrs. Porter. Genl. Brown and suite with Col. Brady arrive at Buffalo, the former to take passage in the Walk in the W f ater on a visit to the Western Posts; return to Buffalo in 1 For a further description of Goat Island now called Iris Island, see p. 222, under June 16. 2 John Adams Dix, born in New Hampshire in 1798. Diplomat, soldier, and lawyer. Governor of New York 1872- 1874. A Major General of New York Volunteers during the Civil War. 220 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY the evening. The waters of Lake Erie are 3 feet lower than usual. No satisfactory reason is given for the rise and fall of these inland seas. The change is very perceptable at the Great Falls. Rocks are exposed which have not been seen before. The bar of Buffalo Creek appears to be rapidly closing up the river. The prevailing S.W. winds raise a sea that breaks directly upon this point bringing with it the wash of the lake. Every storm creates an apparent change, and it may not be long ere the trifling harbor that now shelters their craft will be added to the sandy shores of the lake. It is contemplated to extend a pier, but I can conceive of no artificial means that will remedy the evil. The bottom of the lake will continue to supply this neighborhood with bars of sand until the more mighty efforts of nature give a different direction to the waters. Black Rock affords a shelter for the heavy vessels of Lake Erie. Fort Erie is the harbor on the British side. Neither of these are without ob- jections: the first wants water and is below a rapid; the other is exposed. They say at Black Rock that by extending a pier from the shore they can deaden the water on the American shore, and thus make it easy of egress. Such a pier would I think only prove a barrier to the sand or the deposit of the lake; thus by creating a shallow rather impair than improve their landing. Friday, June II. In the afternoon cross the ferry to Fort Erie with Col. Jones, Mr. Dix & Mr. Whiting 1 of the Army. Examine the several positions of the two armies, held by them respectively during the attack and the sortie. The trees still show many marks of shot & the batteries their form & strength. There is scarcely a tree in the range of the forts that does not show from one to a dozen shot wounds. Eighteen pounders were the largest calibres mounted on our works. We were treated with much civility by a Capt. Maxwell who keeps the inn near the old Fort Erie. The person who keeps the adjoining tavern is said to be unfriendly & rude to the American visitors. Since yesterday I have learned that Buffalo Creek is closed every summer by the increase of the sand bar, and that it is opened again in the spring when the creek is swelled and the current rapid. This being true, a pier above the creek, extending in the lake beyond the sand bar, may possibly afford shelter for vessels. Saturday, June 12. At 5 o'clock p.m. the steam boat Walk in the Water leaves Black Rock for Michilimackinach now called Mackina. She has a full freight of Indian goods, on account of Mr. Astor, and 50 cabin and 30 steerage passengers. 1 Henry Whiting, born about 1 790. Aide to General Alexander Macomb. Brev- etted a Brigadier General in 1847. BOOK FOUR 221 In the evening Capt. Douglass 1 our principal surveyor arrives at Buffalo from West Point to join the Commission. The Walk in the Water is about 360 tons burthen. Sunday, June 13. In the morning leave Buffalo with Capt. Douglass for Goat Island. Take a boat at Black Rock and land at Schlosser, passing down the Canada side of Grand Island and between Grand Island and Navy Island. Find Col. Brady and party at Whitney's tavern where we board. At night lodge in camp on Goat Island, the camp being pitched on the lower point of the island, on the Canada Rapids. Col. Ogilvy's camp is on Navy Island. In the evening Gen'l Porter and Lady, Mrs. Lewis, Mrs. Cabel and others arrive at Judge Porter's, at the Falls, having passed down on the British side. The noise of the rapids and falls (between which our camp is pitched) proved rather unfriendly to the sleepy god. Monday, June 14. The Board holds a meeting at Col. Ogilvy's Marquee on Navy Island. Visit the Falls at its different points on this shore and on Goat Island. Dine with Judge Porter and party and in the afternoon descend the stairs and proceed ^ a mile on the shore of the straits in search of minerals. Find quantities of chrystalized carbonate of lime in cavaties of the lime stone rocks and preserve specimens. 2 We also find a very fine and pure composition of gypsum in a soft state, perfectly white (Gypseaus Alabaster). This is only found in small quantities and in the fragments of the lime stone when first broken. There is considerable red sand stone at the lowest range of the shore and it is overlaid by lime stone. The sand stone is a stratum below the lime stone, and the granite found on the shore appears to have been precipitated from above. Sleep in camp on Iris Island, heretofore called Goat Island. The noise of the rapids and falls now from its monotony is rather a lullaby than an antidote to sleep. The whole island appears to tremble under my pillow, yet I as well as the whole party rested perfectly throughout the night. The Board did no business of public importance at their meeting this day and adjourned to hold their next meeting on the river St. Clair, if an earlier meeting should not be called. Tuesday, June 15. Remain at Iris Island and take my meals at 1 David Bates Douglass, born March 21, 1790, graduated Yale in 181 3. Did dis- tinguished service as an engineer officer during the War of 181 2 in operations about Niagara. Laid out Green-Wood Cemetery, New York. Became Superintendent of the U. S. Military Academy at West Point and after resigning from the army a celebrated engineer, professor and college president. 8 Major Delafield's "specimens" are now in the museum of New York University at their buildings on University Heights in New York City. 222 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Whitney's, as do the other gentlemen of the party present. Gen'l Porter remains at Manchester with us. Find on Iris Island, on the shore opposite the camp, a stratum of peculiarly fine clay, and preserve specimens. It is wrought by our men into ink stands, candle sticks, pipes &c. by the simple operation of the knife. Adjoining is a bed of red sand as fine as or finer than emery and well calculated for polishing steel &c. The clay stratum is about 10 feet below the surface and appears to be extensive, showing itself at several points on the island. Lodge in camp on Iris Island. Wednesday, June 16. Iris Island, formerly known as Goat Island, divides the Falls of Niagara into two unequal falls, that on the Canada side consisting of two thirds, if not a greater proportion, of the waters that pass from Lake Erie. This division of the waters takes place about 4 miles below Black Rock, at the head of Grand Island, there being a stronger current & greater body of water flowing on the British side than the American side of that island. After leaving Grand Island and Navy Island opposite Chippewa (which is mostly lock'd by Grand Island) and about two miles below them, is Iris Island. It contains 70 acres of very fine land and is richly timbered with red & white cedar, pine, maple, basswood &c. The upper end of the island has been lately cleared and now bears a fine growth of corn. The lower end is left covered with wood, and the underbrush and rubbish is about to be carried off, leaving a beautiful and clear grove for the more pleasant resort of the curious traveller and visitors. The rapids on the Canada side of this island are about one mile in length and form in themselves a striking majestic scene. The descent is about 60 feet before these waters reach the Great Cataract. On this side is the Horse Shoe Fall, so called from its former resemblence in shape. It now bears no similitude to a horse shoe. The heaviest body of water rushes nearer Iris Island than Table Rock, and has consequently cut a passage progressing toward that island. The shape that this fall has now assumed is an acute angle, its longest side extending from the Canada shore. From Table Rock to Iris Island in a right line is . . . feet. On the American side the width is . . . feet. There are several little islands in the rapids of this side, appearing heretofore to have been attached to Iris Island. The island on this side is connected with the maine by a bridge. This bridge is below the most furious rapids and . . . feet above the Great Fall. It consists of two parts. The first bridge is 400 feet long and rests on 7 piers. It then rests on an island 300 feet wide. The second bridge is 225 long and rests on 5 piers. The manner of fixing these piers in the BOOK FOUR 223 rapids is as ingenious as the project was bold. The longest timber in the woods was obtained, ash trees. The first pier being constructed without danger, these long timbers were slid out from it, to the place where the next pier was to be. They were about 100 feet long, two in number secured by cross pieces at the ends and center, and prevented tipping when thus extended, by the weight of their butt ends on the first pier, and other securities. Having these timbers to form a sort of platform to the place where the pier was wanted the first operation was to sink and fix a light frame about 6 by 4 ft. which was done in parts, anchoring each part as it was arranged with stone. The angles of this frame were presented to the rapids, so as to have the least resistance, and it was found the most difficult part to force perpendicularly to the bottom any sticks of sufficient size to attach the frame work of this little pier. It was however successfully accomplished, and having thus gradually raised this pier to the surface, a foundation was established wereupon they could work to advantage in building one more secure. For this purpose piers of the desired dimensions were prepared on shore. By pieces they were carried to the spot. The long sides of the pier to be sunk were (one piece at a time) fastened by a rope and pulley to the end of the long timber already projected. This piece was then given to the rapid, and drawn into its place on the one side of the little pier already sunk. Its corresponding side was treated in the same manner. The two end pieces were then brought across, and pin'd together. Thus the first frame of the large pier was formed, afloat around the small one. Another frame was then formed on top of this, in the same manner, and so on, til of sufficient depth, when the whole was heavily loaded with stone. In the first bridge there are two piers 60 feet asunder and Judge Porter tells us that the very long timbers he was here obliged to slide out, so bended from their own weight as to nearly touch the water. They were necessarily thus long from the circum- stance of a rapid intervening, in which no pier could be constructed. Many of the piers are partially protected by rocks and shoal water a little above, but some of them are sunk in frightful rapids. This bridge was projected by Judge Porter and his brother, the General, and built under the sole directions of the Judge. It is a toll bridge, toll 25 cents — is free however to our party. One accident only happened during the building of the bridge. A laborer was thrown from the outside of the second pier by the hand spike of a windlass. The rapid is just here tre- mendous, but fortunately about 20 feet from the pier breaks over a rock that gives the rapid a direction to the right and to the left. He was thrown to the right and reached the shoal water and held to a rock, til his comrades ran around, and clasping hands extended themselves in 224 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY the rapid til they reached him, and thus saved him from a descent over the Fall. The water below the Fall is 300 feet deep. It was sounded by order of Judge Porter some years ago. This depth was found at the place where the ferry boat now crosses which is about 250 yards below the Fall. Thursday, June 17. Capt. Douglass leaves the camp on Iris Island, to join Mr. Bird and Mr. Ferguson who have carried the survey as high as Lewistown. They propose conducting the survey on the shores of the pass between Lewiston and the falls instead of the banks. In the afternoon a load of our camp equipage arrives from Fort Niagara. Pay a Mr. Forsyth for forwarding it from Niagara to Lewis- ton 8 dlls. including however a charge for storage in a public store at the fort, for forwarding across the portage paid 3 dlls. Friday, June 18. Gen'l Porter & Majr. Fraser leave camp for their homes at Black Rock. I remain alone with Mr. De Witt 1 on Iris Island. In the morning walk to the sulphur spring about 2 miles below the Falls. This spring is within 100 yards of the river and about the same distance from the road & is at that point from whence you have a dis- tant view of the Falls. This is the first view that the traveller has, as he ascends from Lewistown and is highly picturesque and beautiful, a view not surpassed by any other, when the whole subject has become familiar from the different positions. This sulphur spring is strongly impregnated. The sulphur shows itself on the grass and stones over which the water passes, and the traveller needs no other guide than his nose to find the spot when in the neighborhood. I drank as freely as I could of the water, but it was too nauseous to be enjoyed. The water is very cold — so much so, that I could not keep my hand immersed without pain. The spring is in its original rude state, and appears to have been but little frequented. A foot path thro' the bushes leads from the road to the spring; continu- ing from this spring to the river, inclining to the right, you arrive at a point where the river changes its direction toward the S.W. Below this point is the whirlpool and rapid. Above it, is a right line to the Falls, the waters are not much agitated. I observed that this chasm is not cut entirely as is generally supposed thro' solid rock. There are occasional cuts thro' sand and gravel. It may be remarked that the irregular breadth of the river from Lewistown to the Falls is owing to the different degrees of resistance that the rapids met with. For instance, where the 1 Simeon DeWitt, born Ulster Co., New York Dec. 25, 1756 — a topographical officer during the American Revolution in the American Army. In 1784 became Surveyor General of New York. FACSIMILE OF PAGES FROM DIARY ENTRY DATED 16 JUNE 1819 BOOKFOUR 225 rock is solid, the pass is more narrow than where the sand and gravel banks prevail. In the latter instances, the pass swells into little bays, and again contracts on its approach to the rocks. The cut is nearly perpendicular, and the shores beneath the banks are inaccessable. Meet Mr. Gray, the draughtsman of the British party, at our landlord's (Whitney's). He has sketched a full view of the Falls from the opposite shore below the ladder, a view from the stairs on the American side, a view of the bridge and rapids from a mill of Judge Porter's, and a view of the Horse Shoe from Goat Island. Saturday, June 19. A solitary day on Iris Island. Opened a view of the rapids from the Marquee, and roved in different directions about the Falls. Was informed by a man who said he was in the employ of Com'e Owen, when he surveyed in this neighborhood, that by his observa- tions he made the Falls 1 74 feet high, and that three officers observed for the same purpose, and that their greatest variance was three feet. It has been heretofore measured by some person who has given pub- licity to it, who makes it 1 56 feet. The three last days have been very warm and clear. This day cool, wind S.W. Yesterday a high wind from the S.W. made a very apparent change in the state of the rapids. A greater quantity of water was forced in the E. or American channel, as also a greater quantity from Lake Erie, enlarging both channels. More of the deep green water was seen on the Canada side, and the rapids on the American side were more furious. In the evening Messrs. Douglass and Bird join me at Whitney's. They left their camp at Lewistown in the morning, and entered the river at the great chasm at that point and traversed the shore on the American side about 4^ miles. The survey thus far has been conducted under the banks of this terrific pass. Further it is beyond the power of man to go. The sides are of perpendicular rock from the summit of the bank about abreast of the sulphur spring and upwards most of the way to the walls. For much of the distance they traversed, the wall is also perpendicular & washed by the rapids, particularly in the neigh- borhood of the whirlpool. Above this wall, however, the bank has an inclination, formed as usual by debris. It is covered with thick scraggy pine and cedar, almost impenetrable. Thro' such places these gentlemen clambered and established stations to be occupied by the theodolite. Sometimes they were opposed by huge masses of rock that have been doubtless at some time the barrier to the Falls, lying in irregular shapes and conditions, forming immense caverns, and lofty summits. They would sometimes ascend these rocks with the hope of escaping from this abyss, but were disappointed on reaching their tops to find them 226 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY detached rocks unconnected with the shore but at their bases. They made good their retreat toward night thro' an opening about one mile above the Devil's Hole. At the Devil's Hole there is also a place where a descent or ascent can be made. They returned entirely exhausted. Capt. Douglass thro' extreme fatigue fainted twice during the day; at one time he grew faint when so situated as to have been precipitated into the whirlpool had it not been for a cedar tree. Conscious that he was about to fall, he made his direction toward this tree and fell across it. His comrades had preceeded him and could not retrace their steps. A short distance below the Devil's Hole there is a path leading down, by which the fisherman descend to fish with nets. They take bass &c. which come up the river. In the eddy of Iris Island there is a good fishing ground for eels and cat fish. The white fish of the upper lakes is the most highly esteemed fish. It is salted in large quantities on Lake Erie, and is very fine. It needs no butter to cook it with. Its own fat is sufficient. It corresponds with the best shad of the Atlantic in the use made of it. Sunday, June 20. Mr. Ferguson joins us at Iris Island having the preceding day occupied the stations on the Canada shore thro' the chasm as high as about half a mile above the Devil's Hole. The last and uppermost stations about ]/2 a mile above this were measured by Capt. Douglass' pocket sextant. They were inaccessable with the theodolite. Of the Falls, Judge Porter says that the inclination of the great bed of rock from Schlosser to the Fall, is toward the Canada shore: for instance at Schlosser, there is but 3 & 4 ft. of water, on the corresponding shore there is 9 & 10 feet. Of consequence, the great pressure as well as the great body of water is on the W. side of Iris Island & encroaching on the Canada shore. To verify the position he states that 35 years ago when that shore was first settled a road was opened on the margin of the river, say about 3 rods from the water. The bank has been cut away so much that this road has nearly disappeared. Nothing remains of it, but here & there a part of the causeway. It would seem that in future time, the whole of this water will be emptied thro' the Canada channel. The American Fall is comparatively shallow as well as narrow. Its dam is perpedicular, and its base a bed of rocks now apparent. The other fall projects very much from its upper strata. Its base is probably ex- cavated to a prodigious depth, for 300 yards below the pitch there is 300 feet of water. Changes too are constantly observed on the W. and not on the E. side of Iris Island. Mr. Weiss and Mr. Gip, surveyors, and Mr. Gray, draughtsman of the British party, spend the afternoon with us. Monday, June 2 1 . Remain on Iris Island and in the neighborhood. BOOK FOUR 227 Col. Hawkins of the 68th and Col. Evans of the 70th, with a large party of ladies and gentlemen from Niagara and Queenston, visit the island &c. In the afternoon the party arrives from Lewiston with the camp equipage and pitch their tents on Iris Island, the survey being complete within two miles from the Falls. Gen'l Porter also arrives from Black Rock. Tuesday, June 22. Spend the day in camp on Iris Island. Captn. Gates and officers from Fort Niagara dine in camp, and Mrs. Judge Porter, Mrs. Paulding & others take tea there. Forsyth erects this day the frame work of the stairs up the bank on the Canada shore. Much company at the Falls this day. The accommodations mis- erable, otherwise travellers would be induced to remain some days at this place. Whitney the landlord is an obliging man but he & his family entirely ignorant of either comforts or propriety in house keeping. Shells are found in abundance along the highest banks of Iris Island and from the surface to the water's edge. Many visitors express disap- pointment on witnessing the Falls. An old man by the name of Bailey who was formerly the guide to strangers was always mortified and angry if the traveller did not show surprise & gratification. On hearing some persons say that the Falls were not what they expected, and ask if they had seen all, "Why," replied the old man, "what the devil do you want more? Did you expect they run upward?" This is the standing anecdote here among the residents. At a blacksmith's shop by the bridge there is a nail cutting machine invented by ... . that will cut more than . . . (300 crossed out) 1 nails in one minute. The only person required is the man who holds the bar of iron to the knives. The nail is headed at the same time it is cut. Wednesday, June 23. Remain on Iris Island and in neighborhood. Find some handsome specimens of carb. of lime in rhomboidal chrys- tals, and some of quartz in nodules of coarse agate which had been imbedded in lime stone. The former abound in the rocks under the stairs and toward the Fall. On Iris Island there is the trunk & branches of an exceedingly old red cedar tree. Its roots are entirely decayed, and its trunk next the earth also appears to have been worn down or de- cayed. It now lodges on the next tree by its top. The body of the cedar is perfectly sound. Every piece of bark, and the outer coats of the tree appear long since to have gone. Its growth may have been of more than 200 years, and since then it may have stood 6 or 800 more. On this island, Iris Island, is a tree now bearing the mark of 1 768. There are older marks not legible. These old marks on trees may, long after 1 Previously commented on. 228 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY they have disappeared from the bark, be traced by cutting into the tree. Frequently they appear on the body of the tree under the bark, and sometimes are found far in the solid wood. Judge Porter has given me instances from his own experience. In the afternoon prepare for a fishing excursion under the foot of Iris Island. The ferryman fears to take us there, in the then condition of his boat, having but indifferent oars. Cook a snapping turtle in camp — makes pretty good soup. The Secretary of the Board hands me a copy of the proceedings of their last meeting, 14th inst., by which it appears they have adjourned over to the 14th of June next, to meet at the head of St. Clair River, Lake Huron, unless an earlier meeting should be called by either Commissioner. Thursday, June 24. Receive from Gen'l Porter a draft on the Me- chanics & Farmers Bank for 1 92.^^0 to the order of H. & W. Delafield, 1 being the balance due Rich'd Delafield as draughtsman during the season of 1818. 2 Forward same by letter addressed to John Delafield Esqr. same day under care of T. Clinton to be mailed at Buffalo. A Mr. Brown, an English artist residing in Boston, arrives at the Falls for the purpose of taking all its views. Friday, June 25. Accompany Mrs. Judge Porter and Mrs. Paulding from the Falls to Fort Niagara to visit Capt. Gates & Lady; cross in the barge to Newark (Niagara). Are admitted to the fort on the point. Has a corporal's guard; found them all drunk. Is a pretty little work, but in bad condition. A very large work has been traced out on this point, to cost as is said 3 millions of dollars; this citadel was to form a part. It appears to command Niagara Fort. Col. Lull joined our party at Lewiston. Return from Fort Niagara after dinner. Leave Col. Lull at Capt. Leonard's. 3 Take tea with Mrs. Barton at Lewiston and reach camp on Iris Island to lodge, my bed at Whitney's being occupied by ladies & his house more than full. Saturday, June 26. Leave Niagara Falls (Manchester) for Buffalo. Take lodgings at Landen's. The steam boat Walk in the Water arrived 1 Henry and William Delafield. * See list of payments in Foreign Relations. •Captain Richard Leonard, born in 1780, distinguished in the British service in Canada. Bought land and lived near the battlefield of Lundy's Lane. He was in com- mand of Fort Niagara when it was taken. The facts as told in the history of the times savor of treachery: ''His neighbors however seem one & all to think him innocent of crime. He is rising 50 yrs. of age: had an aged mother & children within one mile of the Fort & was on a visit to them when the Fort was taken. Now lives on his farm of 1000 acres at the 5 mile meadows, which he owned before the war. Is much em- baressed owing in part to expenses incurred while under arrest attending Court Martial at Troy. Was not tried. His son in law's misfortunes have also incumbered his property." BOOKFOUR 229 this day from her trip to Mackinaw, having performed her route, making reasonable stops, in fourteen days. About 60 passengers returned in her. Meet at Landen's a Dr. Bigsby of the British Army Staff who was under instructions to explore the lakes &c. in search of mineralogical specimens, also to attend to the geology & icthiology of the country. His instructions were from the Medical Department. Sunday, June 27. Walk from Landen's to Gen'l Porter's and spend the day with Mrs. Porter and party at her house. Black Rock is 2 miles from Buffalo. Monday, June 28. In the evening return from Mrs. Porter's to Landen's, Buffalo. Tuesday, June 29. Remain at Buffalo. In the afternoon the steam boat sails for Detroit, heavy shower & gust of wind at time of sailing. At night a storm with gale from S.W. Receive letters from Col. Hawkins, stating his detention in N. York & answer them same day. Wednesday, June 30th. A heavy gale and storm of rain from S.W. Buffalo Creek rises suddenly 4 to 5 feet, overflowing the meadows be- low the hill. The bar up to the Light House under water, and the meadows covered as high as the foot of Landen's garden, a circum- stance not known before at this season of the year. In the autumn the water sometimes rises as high as at present during the long S.W. gales. At 12 o'clcock the steam boat heaves in sight on Lake Erie, making for a harbor at Black Rock, not being able to make headway against the violence of the storm. She comes to in the lee of Squaw Island, the craft at the rock being all on shore. Had proceeded about 70 miles up the lake. On a trifling change of wind the water subsides suddenly leaving the meadows dry. The storm continues throughout the day and night. Thursday, July 1. High wind from the S.W. and cloudy, cold. During this gale I am told the Falls of Niagara have assumed an ad- ditional grandeur from the great increase of water driven from the lake. So great was the quantity forced over the Fall that the water rose in the chasm below 15 and 20 feet, the outlet being much narrower than the barrier over which the water passes. A fish of the herring kind was seen to fall from the clouds by Capt. Parish and others. It was full of life and sprang two or three times from the ground. It was in no manner bruised, nor were any of its scales disturbed. They do not think it was dropped by a bird. It was too dis- tant from the lake to account for its reaching the clouds in any other manner. Judge Miller, the commissioner appointed to hold a Treaty* with the Seneca Indians, arrives at Buffalo, also D. A. & T. L. and Govr. Ogden who are interested in the Indain Reservations which are the subject of a session Treaty. 230 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Friday, July 2. High wind from the S.W. still continues & prevents the steam boat sailing. The Indian Chiefs assembled at the Buffalo Village in council upon the subject of the Missionaries being sent among them. A Mr. Hyde is there teaching school & preaching. Of the latter great complaint is made. Red Jacket is the leader in opposition to the missionary party & has gained to his cause a large majority of the nation. Jacket is an unbeliever & assigns for reason, that if there is any truth in the religion of the White Men, and the good they pretend, that the Great Spirit would surely have given it to the Red Men too. Jacket is a man of acute mind & much observation. Has become of late years a sot, but still retains great influence in his Tribe. Mr. Warren of Troy and myself go to Black Rock & dine with Mrs. Porter; return in the evening to Buffalo. Saturday, July 3. Clear and high wind from S.W. The steam boat sails for Detroit with 100 artillerists on board under Major Stockton, & 60 passengers. In the afternoon accompany Judge Miller, Govr. Ogden, D.A. & T.L. Ogden 1 & Mr. Dudley on a fishing party to Black Rock. Among other fish one of a lizard kind is taken on the hook. It is amphibious & is called the lake alligator. Is about 9 inches long and is said to grow to twice that size. Preserve the lizard (Leotuus Anguinus, new species) . Take white and black bass, perch and pike. Capt. Parish, the interpreter, dines with us & relates some good anecdotes of Red Jacket the Buffalo Chief. When holding a Treaty with Col. Timothy Pickering 2 who was a favorite Comr. with Gen'l Washing- ton, an obstinate debate ensued between him & Red Jacket, which lasted two days, without coming to any conviction. The Chief, uneasy and tired of debate, says, "Had I but your language, Col. Pickering, or had you my language, so that we might meet on even ground, I would wind you around my finger in a moment!" "The impudent 1 "Governor Ogden" and T. L. Ogden. Thomas Ludlow Ogden, son of Abraham Ogden and grandson of David Ogden. He was born in Morristown, New Jersey in 1 773, became a lawyer, was associated with Alexander Hamilton in his law practice, was counsel for the Holland Land Company holding 3,000,000 acres in western New York. He doubtless also cared for the great land holdings of his father in the same part of the state including Ogdensburg named after him. Aaron Ogden, son of Robert Ogden, was born at Elizabethtown, New Jersey in 1 756. After a distinguished career as an officer in the Continental Army was elected to the United States Senate in 1801, and in 181 2 to be the Governor of New Jersey. 2 Colonel Timothy Pickering, born in Salem, Mass. July 17, 1745. He was educated as a lawyer but early became interested in the army and rendered distinguished service as an officer in the War of the Revolution. Postmaster General of the United States 1 79 1 to 1795. Sec. of War 1795 and for a time Acting Sec. of State. United States Senator 1803 to 181 2. He held other offices both Federal and in the State of Massachusetts. BOOK FOUR 231 rascal!" exclaims the Com'r. Capt. Parish in explanation of Indian usage says that among Indians there are two ranks, the Sachems and the Chiefs. The Sachems hold by lineal descent on the mothers side only: the warriors are Chiefs by election. The Indians in this particular pre- serve, as far as human foresight can preserve, the lineal blood of their Sachems, and ascribe in vulgar phrase to the common law maxim of 'Tortus sequitur Ventrem." Sunday, July 4. Clear & more temperate than the past week, tho' cool, wind S.W. Remain with party at Buffalo. In the evening a large luminous comet is seen in the N.W. Was apparent this evening about 3 hours, had not been seen before here. The weather had been stormy. Monday, July 5. Attend the Council of Indians with the Conrr. Morris S. Miller at the Buffalo Village about 6 miles from Buffalo, to hold a treaty for their relinquishment of the Reservations. Arrive at 12 o'clock. The Council opens. Present the Com'r., myself as Sec'y, 1 D.A. & T.L., and Govr. Ogden as claimants by title, and the Chiefs, Sachems and Warriors of the Six Nations as proprietors of the soil. A large party of ladies & many strangers. The business is opened by the Seneca Sachem Pollard. He formally welcomes the Comr. and the Agents of the Gov't, concerned. The Commission of Judge Miller was then read by me and interpreted by Capt. Parish. The Comr. then delivered his talk explaining the views of the Gov't. He told them that their Great Father had deputed him to meet them at their Council fire. That he came there to give them the advice of their Great Father who protected both the white men and the red men. That it was his wish to extend to them security & useful arts. That situated as they now were, his wishes could not be so well effected as if they were more concentrated. The Comr. explaines to them, how the white men hold their reserva- tions by the right of title and the red men by possession. The proposi- tion submitted to the Chiefs, Sachems & Warriors was this: that they should all concentrate upon the Alleghany reservation, the title of this tract to be ceded to them in fee, as white men hold, or they might if they preferred join their red Brothers at Sandusky or settle upon other lands of the Territories of the U.S. Should they consent to this arrangement, the offer made by their Great Father was not to impair the price they were to receive from the proprietors, or in any manner effect the bargain. It was meant as a free gift & for their & the white men's mutual good. The present encroachments of the whites was handsomely pictured by the Comr. & the time predicted when they 1 Major Delafield's Autobiography does not refer to his service as Secretary to this Commission. 232 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY must be overwhelmed by the torrent of white population, if they con- tinued surrounded by them. They are cautioned against the artifices of bad men, as also against the hasty adoption of the advice of good white men, are admonished to reflect for themselves, to deliberate in council. This is the sum of an able & elegant talk from the Comr. After the Comr. was seated (see end of speech) Pollard, the Sachem, rose to reply. His speech was interpreted as follows. "Brothers. We have listened attentively to what your Comr. has said to us: in the first place to his authority by which he meets us at this Council, and also to the explanations he has given us of the views of the Great Father (The Pres't of the U.S.) relative to the affairs of his red children here. In doing this, Brothers, you have addressed yourselves principally to the Senecas. The Six Nations are present. They are our confederates but you speak generally to the Senecas. For myself I am gratified that our confederates are present and have heard what you have said to us. "You have told us that the propositions which we now hear from our Great F'ather have not been with him hasty propositions. He has for a long time deliberated. He has taken, you tell us, a full view of the in- terests of his white children and of his red children. In doing this the Great Father has sometimes addressed the Senecas & sometimes our confederates. He has considered the situation of his red children. He knows their wants, their poverty & their troubles. You have told us of his solicitudes for the red men, and also of the solicitude of his great Council during the last year. "You are not now to expect that we will reply to these subjects. We will not now talk long upon them at this time. We think it proper now to thank you, for what we have heard from your Comr. We thought it proper now to make a short reply to return you thanks, and to thank the President for what he has said to us. We have listened attentively to your talk. "We view it, that the Great Spirit has created all things, this Earth and all that is upon the Earth. "We rejoice that this Council has been made so public. We are pleased that so many white men have attended. W r e are rejoiced that your squaws have come with you to this Council, and we thank you that they are present. (Addressing himself to Mr. Ogden) The Comr. we have heard has not spoken solely to the red men. You are also interested in what our Great Father has said. The result of this Council interests you, as well as us. After our Brother's talk, you told us this. Y'ou told us you would want time to reflect upon these propositions, which are serious and important. That you would want time to reply, and would wish to meet us the day after tomorrow. Brother, we have BOOK FOUR 233 had a short consultation upon your proposition. We wish to give you time, and we wish to have time to reflect and to hold our councils. We will meet you again the day after tomorrow. Brother, in what you said, you did not name any hour to meet. Knowing that our proceedings are slow & dilatory and not like yours, we beg leave, Brother, to pro- pose to meet you at 10 o'clock on that day." The Comr. having taken his seat, Mr. Ogden proposed that they adjourn over to the day after tomorrow, to give him time to reflect upon the propositions made, upon which Pollard rose & made the above speech. The Comr. then explained why he had addressed the Senecas, which was because his Commission appoints him to treat with the Seneca Nation to relinquish their Reservation. He however did in some parts of his talk address them all, which was explained, advising them to full & calm deliberations & to carry harmony with them to their council fire. He, after recommending them to the care of the Great Spirit, adjourns til Wednesday 10 o'clock. Tuesday, July 6. Remain at Buffalo. Very warm. Judge Gorham, 1 a Cornr. of the part of Massachusetts to attend the Indian Treaty, ar- rives. Wednesday, July 7. Proceed to the Indian Village to attend the Council. The Council fire was kindled by Red Jacket as follows. "Brothers: you will recollect that the day before yesterday, we were preserved in health strength and spirits to meet you at our Council fire. "The Great Spirit has protected us to the present time, and we are thankful again to meet you. You will recollect, Brothers, at that time we listened with attention to what we heard from the Comr. and from our Great Father (the President) thro' his Comr. As this Council was called by the voice of our Great Father, you barely told us at that time of his views, and made known to us what care he had for his red chil- dren. You further promised us however that the Yorkers (meaning the proprietors) had communications for us. We now welcome you to this Council, and are ready to hear your communications. "We see here our brother from Massachusetts (Judge Gorham). He is welcome to our Council. We are ready to hear him. Brothers, we wish you to open your minds to us. Let us hear frankly all that you have to say, that we may be ready to answer in reply." Mr. Gorham took his seat. His Commission was read, when he address'd the Council, approving of the propositions made by the 1 Benjamin Gorham, born in Charlestown, Mass. in 1775, died in 1855, a member of Congress and a distinguished lawyer. 234 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY President. Mr. D. A. Ogden then spoke, and offered on the part of the proprietors to agree to the President's plans, having closed an able speech, explanatory of his title & the history of the Reservations. Red Jacket speaks to his Tribe, tells them they must deliberate in Council before they reply, and addressing the Council, says: "We have now heard our Great Father, and we have heard Mr. Ogden. We must now take time to reflect upon the whole. When we are ready to meet again at the Council fire: we will send you word. We are slow, and the subjects are important; we have nothing further to kindle this Council fire." Adjourned. Thursday, July 8. Clear and very warm. Dine & spend evening at Gen'l Porter's with the party attending the Indian Treaty. Friday, July 9th. The Council met at the Buffalo upper village, opened by Henry Abeel, a Seneca, by the usual welcome, when Red Jacket, a chief of the Seneca Nation, rose & delivered the following speech, first addressing the Commissioner Judge Miller: "Brother. We understand that you have been appointed by our Great Father, the President, to make these communications to us. We thank the Great Spirit for this pleasant day given us to reply and we beg you to listen. "Brother. Previous to y'r arrival at this Council fire, we understood that our Great Father has appointed a Comr. to meet us. On y'r arrival you produced y'r Commission, and after it was explained, you related the object of your appointment, & the wish of the Pres't in sending you to the Council fire of the Six Nations. We do not doubt, that the sealed document you exhibited contained the words of our Great Father. When first informed of y'r appointment, we expected that you were coming forward to meet us on a different subject. Since the war of the revolution, we have held various treaties with our white Brothers, and in this same manner we have entered into various compacts and agree- ments. We have made various speeches, and these things are all known to our Great Father and are lodged with him. We perfectly understand them all. The same interpreters were then present. In consequence of what has taken place during the late war, we made known to our Great Father that we wished to have a talk. Application was made by our interpreter, but it was not complied with. We sent a messenger to bright- en the chain of friendship with our Great Father, but he would not meet around the Council fire, and we were disappointed. We now expected that the Comr. he has sent, came forward to brighten the chain of friendship, and to renew former engagements. "W r hen we made a treaty at Canadaiga (1 794 Pickering's) we thought it was to be permanent, and to stand between us and the U.S. forever. "After several treaties had been entered into under our Great BOOKFOUR 235 Father, Genl. Washington, large delegations of the Six Nations were invited to meet him. We went and met Genl. Washington in Philadel- phia. We kindled a Council fire. A Treaty was then made, and Genl. Washington declared it should be permanent between the red and the white Brothers; that this Treaty should be laid upon the greatest rocks, be spread upon the largest rocks, upon rocks that nothing could under- mine, that it should be spread upon the largest rocks exposed to the view of all. "Brother. We shall now see what has been done by the United States. After this Treaty of friendship had been formed and declared to be as lasting as the rocks, I then said that I did not doubt but what the U.S. would faithfully perform their contract. But I told our white Brothers at that time that I feared eventually they would feel a wish to disturb those contracts. You white Brothers have a faculty to burst the stoutest rocks. On our part we would not have disturbed those Treaties. A short time after our interview at Philadelphia, with our Great Father, Genl Washington, a Treaty was made at Canadaiga, by which we widened our former engagements with our white Brothers and added some new ones. The Comr. (Col Pickering) then told us that this Treaty should be binding & last without alteration for two lives. We wished to extend the term much farther, and I then told the Comr. that the Six Nations would wish to make the Treaty permanent, and establish a lasting chain of friendship. That on our part we wished the Treaty to last as long as 'trees grow and the waters run.' Our Brother then told us he would agree to it. "Brother. I commenced reminding you what had taken place between the U.S. and the confederates of the Six Nations, and have last spoken of the Treaty of Canadaiga. At the close of that Treaty it was agreed (that Treaty being as strong as by my former comparisons I have explained) that if any difficulties should occur, if any Monster should come across the chain of friendship, that we should unite as one, to remove those difficulties, to drive away the Monster, we will, in such case, go hand in hand and continue the chain. So it was agreed. "Brother. We discovered many years ago a cloud rising in the way of peace and friendship. We heard such things from different quarters, from different persons, and at different times; and thought that the time was not far distant when the present difficulty would burst upon us. "Brother. During the late war, we intended to take no part. Yet re- siding within the limits of the U. S. & with the advice of Genl. Porter we agreed around our Council fire, that it was right, and we took a part. We thought it would tend to promote friendship with our white Brothers to aid the arms of the U. S., and to make our present seats 236 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY still stronger. We took part in the war for these purposes. What were the effects? W r e lost many of our Warriors. We spilt our blood in a cause between you and a people not of our own color. "Brother. These transactions may probably be new to you, but they are not new to your Government. Records of these transactions are with our Great Father the President. You have come for a different purpose than the one we expected. Your coming is to tell us of our situation, to tell us about our Reservations, to tell us the opinion of the President that we must change our old customs for new ones; that we must con- centrate ourselves, in order to derive the fair means you offer of civiliza- tion and improvement in the arts of agriculture. "Brother. At the Treaty of Canadaiga, we were promised on the part of your Government that different kinds of mechanics, blacksmiths and carpenters should be sent among us to improve us in these arts. And we were promised that farmers with their families should be sent, that our women might learn to spin. We agreed to accept them. We even made application for these benefits. We were told that the age of our children was not suitable, and none of them were taught. The Treaties have promised us these things. Neither farmers or mechanics have been sent among us. "Brother. We had thought that all the promises made by one Presi- dent were handed down to the next. We do not change our Chiefs as you do. Since these Treaties were made you have had several changes of your President, and we do not understand why the Treaty made by one President is not binding upon the other. On our part we expect to comply with our engagements. "Brother. You told us, where the Country was surrounded by whites, and in possession of Indians, when it was unproductive, not liable to taxes, nor to make roads and other improvements, it was time to change. As for taxing of Indians, this is extraordinary. This was never heard of before, since the first settlement of America. The land is ours, by the gift of the Great Spirit. How can you tax it? We can make such roads, as we want, and we did so, when the land was all ours. "Brother. We are improving in our condition. See these large flocks of cattle! Look at those fences! These things were not seen formerly. We are surrounded by the whites, from them we can readily obtain cattle, and by what we procure from them we enlarge our improve- ments. Now that we are confined to small Reservations, we can readily make the roads we want, and assist in making public improvements. Look back to the first settlement of this Country, and after that, look at our present condition under the U.S. Under the British Govt, we continued our growth in numbers and in strength. What has now be- come of the Indians who extended themselves to the salt waters? They BOOKFOUR 237 have become few and are driven back, while you have been growing numerous and powerful. This land is ours from the God of Heaven. It was given us; we cannot make land. Driven back and reduced as we now are, you still wish to cramp us more & more. These lands are ours, given by the Heavenly Father. You tell us of a preemptive right; such men you say own one Reservation, such another. But they are all ours, ours from the top to the bottom. If Mr. Ogden should tell us he has come from Heaven, with the flesh on his bones as he now is, & say that the Heavenly Father has given him a title, we might then believe him. "The President has sent us word, you say, that it is our interest to dispose of our Reservations. You tell us there is a fine tract of land at Alleghany. This too is very extraordinary. Our feet have covered every inch of that Reservation. Such a communication as this has never before been made to us in any of our Treaties. The President must have been disordered in mind, or he would not offer to lead us off by the arms to the Alleghany Reservation. You have heard of the Treaty we made with the U.S. Here is the belt of wampum that confirmed that Treaty. This holds our hands to- gether. Here too is the parchment. You know its contents; I will not open it. Now the Tree of friendship is decaying; its limbs are fast falling off, and you are at fault. "Formerly we called the British our Brothers. Now we call the President our Father. Probably among you are gentlemen with families of children. We consider ourselves the children of the President. What then would be your feelings, were you told your children were to be cast on a naked rock, there to protect themselves. The different claims you tell us of, I cannot understand. We were placed here by the Great Spirit, for purposes known to him. You can have no right to interfere. You told us that we had large and many unproductive tracts of land. We do not view it so. Our Seats we consider small, and if left here long by the Great Spirit, we shall stand in need of them. We shall want timber. Land after the improvement of many years, wears out. W T e shall want to renew our fields, and we do not think there is any land in any of our Reservations but what is useful. Look at the white people around us, and back. You are not cramped for seats. They are large. Look at that man (pointing to Mr. Ellicott). If you want to buy, apply to him. He has land enough to sell. We have none to part with. You laugh. But do not think I trifle, I am sincere. Do not think we are hasty in making up our minds. We have had many Councils, and thought for a long time upon this subject, and we will not part with any, not one of our Reservations. We recollect that Mr. Ogden handed his speech to you; therefore I have spoken to you. Now I shall speak to Mr. Ogden. 238 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY "Brother. You recollect, when you first came to this ground, you told us you had bought the preemptive right, a right to purchase given you by the government. Recollect my reply. I told you you were unfortunate in buying. You said you would not disturb us. And I told you then, as long as I lived, you must not come forward to explain that right. You have come, but I am living. See me before you. You have heard our reply to the Comr. sent by the President. And I again tell you that one and all, Chiefs and Warriors, we are of the same mind. We will not part with any of our Reservations. Do not make your ap- plication anew, in any other shape. Let us hear no more of it — and let us part as we met, in friendship. "You discover white people on our Reservations. It is my wish & the wish of all of us to remove every white man. We can educate our children. Our Reservation is small. The white people are near us. Such as wish can send their children to the white people's schools. "The schoolmaster and the preacher must withdraw. The distance is short for those who wish to go after them. We wish to get rid of all the whites. Those who are now among us make disturbances. We wish our Reservation clear of them." Govr. Ogden, of N. Jersey, replied to Red Jacket, to the following effec t: "Sachems Chiefs and Warriors of the Seneca Nation. We under- stand from the message of our Great Father that he wish'd you to get more together, that he might protect you: that you are not what you were, and that a different course of conduct must be adopted in regar 1 to the red people or they would soon be extinguished. "These things were meant in friendship, not enmity, in love not hatred. Brothers, we knew these things before. Here they are contained in these documents, set down for your good, not for your hurt. You knew them before the Comr. told them to you. We came to hear you speak freely upon these subjects. Your minds are as free as the winds. We meant not to control them. We are sorry if we have given you trouble or raised unpleasant feelings. We came to speak freely and in friendship. We have not wished to hurry you. When a proposition is made for the good of a party, we think the more it is thought of it, the better it will be liked; and so we think of this. We make fair & honorable offers, not a rocky Alleghany, but to buy what you do not want. We say nothing of Alleghany or Cattaraugus, but there is more land than you want — Money at interest is better than lands unculti- vated. We said you might all remain if you wished. We will give you 4000 dlls. a year; and your women and children will then be made com- fortable & free from want. This was friendship not hate. Stay or go; we say here is a free election for you. "Brother, I am known to be the friend of red men, among your white BOOK FOUR 239 Brothers. I came here in that character. To my judgement, I believed, where the whites are settled, and the game is all gone, the bow & arrow should give way to the plough and the spade. At Sandusky, I was informed, there was good hunt, bears, beavers, raccoons. At Catteraugus good corn fields, and at other places good hunt. Now you are told to choose of these good things — is there any harm in that? I thought this reasonable. If those who come after us make proposi- tions, I hope they may be more reasonable, but I doubt it — "Brothers. This plan I thought most just. From past time, til now, we know the whites were made for toil and labor, the red people to delight in the chase and hunt. These lands would be cultivated by the whites, and you would live upon the fruits of their toil. This is right. "Brothers. I hope you see that this is meant in friendship, would be sorry if your feelings were hurt. Brothers, let this turn as it may, I shall be your friend. I always was, and always shall be the friend of red people. It is probable I shall never see you again. I am old. I must sell my right — I hope you will meet a better friend, but I don't believe it. Brothers, I hope we will part in love & friendship. Whenever I can do you good I will — but never hurt. "Much has been said about Mr. Pickering's Treaty. To speak of tiiat belongs to the Agent of the U.S. I am no Comr. I only say I do remem- ber that in that Treaty it is said the Senecas may enjoy the Reserva- tions until they chose to sell — It was plain then, that it was expected you would be ask'd to sell. "You say Mr. Ellicott has land to sell. If he (the Commissioner) went to treat with him, he would not be affronted, as you seem to be. Brothers. Your Father the President never meant bul to brighten the chain of friendship. You did him injustice, when you said his mind was disordered. Brothers, but one word more: in my opinion you have not understood the Agent's communication from your Great Father. It belongs to him to explain. You had better go and see the President. You have misapprehended him. He will set you right, and remove from you and your children false impressions." The Comr. Miller then explained to the Nation that they had mis- understood him when they said they were to be taxed. Of Mr. Picker- ing's Treaty he said he knew it well. Of any promises made at that time, not contained in the treaty, he knew nothing. He then ask'd if anything further had been misunderstood, that it be explained. Upon which Red Jacket replied that he knew of nothing that wanted explanation — he hopes that Mr. Ogden understands that they will not sell a single foot of land. If he does not, it wants explanation. There being no further business before the Council, the Comr. brightened the chain of friendship by a valedictory and covered the Council fire. 240 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY After the Council had adjourned Joeny King, a Seneca Chief, in behalf of the Christian Party, thro' the interpreter, addressed the following questions to the Comr. The whole Nation was present and listened with the utmost attention to the question, and with remark- able interest and respect to the answer by the Comr. Question: "Do you, or do you not, advise us & recommend that we should keep the Sabbath day and refrain from labor on that day? This is the question which now agitates our Councils and has caused much disturbance. We ask because we observe a difference among the white people. The Alleghany Quakers and others differ. By this day's talk you have seen that we are to be cut off from white people's schools & preachers. We have been told and we think we should undergo a change, should learn to cultivate the fields as white men do." The Comr. finding that a direct answer would increase the party spirit now existing, because he must side with one party, replied that he did not answer them in his public capacity; he had no instruc- tions upon the subject. He alone was responsible, not the Government, for the opinion he should give. The President does not interfere among his white children upon matters of conscience. He permits all to wor- ship the Great Spirit as they please. He acknowledges no preference of sects. The religion of his white people however is generally the Christian religion. His people believe generally in the redemption of the world thro' Jesus Christ. They have no privileges over the Jew, Turk or Hottentot. "Standing as I do here, I cannot give a preference to any one description of Indians. The President gives protection to all. He will protect the Pagan & the Christian Party. The plan of improvement suggested by Joeny King I consider efficacious." Saturday, July ioth. Remain at Buffalo. A message was sent to Judge Miller from Pollard (Sachem) informing him that 13 of their Chiefs were now in Council & would wish to make a communication to him relative to the business of yesterday. In the afternoon we rec'd a deputation of Chiefs, to wit: Joeny King, Pollard, Destroy Tower, Jim Roberson, White Seneca, Capt. William Rentup, Capt. Johnson; and Pollard spoke as follows: "You recollect what took place yesterday in Council. The speaker (Red Jacket) first made a reply to you, and then to the proprietors. You must have discovered something in that reply which was not cor- rect — which was improper. You must have observed at the different meetings, that there was a division among us. This is true. It has been so a long time. We, altho' a minority, have been reflecting how to adopt the advice of good white men, and how it could be possible that you should have told us anything that did not come from the President, our Great Father, if what you said came from him. Altho' you might BOOK FOUR 241 have discovered that such an intimation was given. The speaker yesterday acknowledged your authority, and that your commission contained the President's words, but he did not admit that your sub- sequent words came from our Great Father. One sentence hurt us. The speaker said that even our Great Father, the President, must have been disordered in mind, to &c. This sentence made us very unhappy. Another expression of his was very extraordinary, one that we are not accustomed to. He said that if Mr. Ogden should come from Heaven, with life & flesh on his bones, and tell us that he had best title, we might believe him. "This we as Christians think very wrong and it hurt us very much. After the Council dispersed the followers of the speaker collected around him, and took him to task for these things. They proposed that this should be made known, and apology should be made for him. Speaker said, 'No, it has gone forth, let it stand.' This gives us an opportunity to come forward. In another thing he behaved improperly. He told you of many Treaties, down to Pickering's; coming to that, he show'd the wampum in confirmation, and the parchment, but said he would not open the parchment, as you had a copy at Washington and had misrepresented it here. This we consider rude and indecent. He spoke of our Great Father the President, calling him President. We call him and view him as Father, friend & protector. The speaker has attempted an explanation of the disordered mind of the President, & made as we think the matter still worse, because he casts imputations upon the Quakers and others who have been long praying for our good. We view your Comr. as coming from a Father to his children. Your advice, to concentrate & improve in agriculture, we approve. We see that the time has come that we should change our condition, and attend to husbandry. We all agreed however to what the speaker said about parting with the land, and we all agreed that his harsh language was rude and improper. We took a view of the President's wish that we should concentrate, and we all thought it right not to part with the lands. Our motive for now calling upon you is to let you know our minds and feelings. We the Senecas are divided. The Tuscororas are all united & wish to receive instruction & civilization. The Alle- ghanys are divided, but principally with our party receiving instruc- tion from the Quakers. When I look back among our forefathers, I see nothing to admire, nothing I should follow, nothing to induce me to live as they did. On the contrary, to enjoy life I find we must change our condition. We who are present have families & children we respect; we wish them to be enlightened and instructed if we have not been, that their eyes may be opened, that they see the light if we have not. We are getting old, and cannot receive the instruction we wish our 242 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY children to. We wish our children to know how to conduct business after we are dead and gone, are covered with the dust; they will bless us for giving them instruction that our Fathers had not given us. The Tuscaroras have for a long time received instruction, and they are going on improving. They see the advantage and their children are enjoying it. These communications we wish our Father, the President, to know, and hereafter when he makes communications to the Senecas we wish to have them made to us the Christian Party, & we will at all times be happy to hear from him in this way. This we think will have a good effect & be a lesson to our children. We are willing to receive instructions from such persons that our Father may send among us, & will adopt his advice, because we see that following Indian habits, we must inevitably decay and sink to nothing. We are sensible that we cannot remain independent, and would therefore wish to undergo a gradual change. For instance: in case of crime now, we are not independent; we are punished and this is right. "One cause of division among us, is that one party will school their children and another will not. Another cause is placing white men upon our lands as tenants. I did so because advised by a white friend, and to show our people how the white men farmed the land." Red Jacket & Henry Abeel were the only persons who dissented from making apology. The Com'r replied to Pollard's talk. Sunday, July 1 1 . Remain at Buffalo. Morning early some rain, day clear and pleasant, the four previous days very warm. Wind S.W. Monday, July 12. Early in morning some rain. Clear wind S.W. Judge Miller leaves Buffalo. In the afternoon accompany Judge Ogden and party to the lake shore, crossing the Buffalo creek at ferry about 11^ mile up the creek. The land across the creek is very good & well timbered. There is 15 ft. water until you come to the bend just above Pratt's fern', where there is but 6 ft. Mr. Fulton's plan, Judge Ogden says, was to bring the canal to the lake at this neighborhood, because here a harbor may be constructed. They say here, because the bottom of the lake is clay and not sand. It is however an open bay, as much exposed as the sea shore at Long Branch, and a harbor could alone be constructed at an immoderate expense. Judge Ogden has purchased the tract lying S. & W. of the Reservation to the lake, about 1000 acres, so as to complete their plot when they get in possession of the Indian lands. The company is also interested in these 1000 acres. Indians are paid 6000 dlls. for their quota. Afternoon cool, cloudy, wind N., a severe hail storm about 18 miles east of Buffalo, not felt here. Tuesday, July 13. Clear and pleasant tempe. The proprietors of the Indian Reservations (Ogdens) leave Buffalo. Visit the camp at Can- jocquaddy Creek. Evening cool. Wednesday, July 14. Remain at Buffalo. BOOK FOUR 243 Thursday, July 15. Proceed to Black Rock, and set out with Mrs. Gen'l Porter, Mrs. Cuthbert and Miss Field on a jaunt to the Falls &c. Cross the river at the Gen'l's house, sending the carriage over at the ferry. Stop at Palmer's & are disappointed in reaching Col. Hale's camp on Grand Island, they not seeing our signals. Stop at Wallace's at Chippewa. Wallace says he saw a few nights ago a very brilliant lunar rainbow over the Falls at midnight. It was about full moon and an exceeding bright night. Lodge at Queenstown at the Stone House kept by Wynn, a miserable, dirty place, but said to be the best. At the Falls we found Lord Dalhousie, 1 Gov'r of New Brunswick, and suite. They occupied the whole of Forsyth's house, so that we made no stop. Miss Field and myself attempted to reach the table rock by a short cut from above and after travelling thro' the swampy ground and up to our knees in mud & water, were obliged to retreat without effecting our purpose. A shower had made this pass more wet than usual. Friday, July 16. Leave Queenstown with party and proceed to Fort George & Newark. Examined the Fort. Under the Flag Staff is deposited the body of Gen'l Brock 2 who fell at Queenstown. This officer was much beloved in the Canadas & objections were made by the inhabitants when his friends sent to remove his body to the lower Province. It was permitted to remain. Earl Dalhousie embarked in the steam boat, Frontenac, for York where he was to meet the Duke of Richmond. We crossed this ferry to Fort Niagara, found there a party of officers and their ladies from Sacket's Harbor. Make our visit short & proceed to Lewiston. 3 The day previous a deserter from Fort George swimming across the river was pursued by the Serg't Major in an armed boat. He had swam more than halfway across when a boat from our shore put out to save him, upon which the British fired upon their deserter. The shot it is said struck the American shore, where stood an artillerist, about half drunk. He then commenced firing with his musket upon the British boat & fired three shots, all of which struck very 7 nigh the Serg't Major. The deserter was taken however before he reached the shore and thus ended a skirmish that might have led to serious difficulties. The British Serg't. Major told us the story at Fort George without any coloring or remark, and I found it to be true as impartially told by the American officers. From Lewiston we proceeded to the 1 George Ramsay, Earl of Dalhousie, born in 1770 and died March 21, 1838. In 1 81 9 appointed Governor General of British North America. He left Canada in 1828. 2 General Sir Isaac Brock, born in 1769 and killed in the battle of Niagara in 181 2. 3 The work on the Niagara River closed on 20th of Nov. 1818, three or four hundred miles of boundary having been surveyed, and "upwards of 1500 islands." (Porter to John Quincy Adams, Sect: of State, Black Rock, Dec. 8, 1818, Mss. in National Archives) . 244 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Falls, Manchester, and Miss Field and myself spend our time til it is dark in viewing the wonders of the place, to which I find I always return with increased pleasure. The ladies remain at Judge Porter's and I find a bed at Whitney's. Expenses on Public Acct. Incurred During Season of 1819 May 25 Portage of baggage to Steam Boat .50 " " Steamboat fare from N. York to Albany & tax 8. " 26 Portage of baggage at Albany .50 " 27 Skinners tavern Bill at Albany 1.25 " 28 Stage fare Schenectady from Albany 1. " 28 Breakfast at Schenectady .50 " 28 Stage fare from Schenectady to Utica 6. " 28 Dinner .50 " 30th Board & Ldg at Baggs Utica 2 days & 3 nights waiting for Stage 4. " 30 Stage fare from Utica to Watertown 6. " 31 Breakfast at Trenton .50 " 3 1 Dinner at Martinburgh .50 " 31 Supr lodg and breakfast at Watertown 1.25 June 1 Stage fare from Watertown to S. Harbor 1. " 3 Mrs. Farlons Tavern bill at Harbor for 3 dys 4. " For Stores put on board Lady of Lake 6. " 6 th Expenses at Youngs town supr lodg 1.75 43-25 bro over 43 .25 June 7 Breakfast at Lewistown -37/^ " Wagon hire from Youngstown to the Falls Goat Island 2. " " Dinner and liquor .62^ " Wagon hire from Goat Island to Black Rock 3. " Toll at Tonawanta Creek .2 1 Expenses returning to Camp 4. " 17th For storage at Niagara and transportation of Camp equipage from thence to Manchester 11." 25th Whitneys for board & lodg 12 dys 15. " " 26th Stage fare from Camp to Buffalo 2. " " Breakfast & dinner this day .87^ 10 I. Bery for board &c at Black Rock 4.25 25 Postage on pub: acct. -87^ 20.55 f° r transportation & storage of box of books at Baions store Sackets Harbor belonging to Col. Hawkins. July 15 pd Mr Landen 20 dlls. July 20 pd Mr Landen 25 dlls. 87.46 BOOK FIVE July 7, i8ig to May 18, 1820 Saturday, July 17, 1819. At Manchester on a jaunt with Mrs. Gen'l Porter, Mrs. Cuthbert and Miss Field. Leave the ladies, under care of Judge Porter to show them the island, Falls &c. and set out with Mrs. Davidson of Geneva and another lady & gentleman, by name unknown, on an expedition to the foot of Iris Island between the Falls. Embark at the foot of the American stairs in a leaky skiff with two good oars and two bad ones. Whitney steers with a paddle, myself, Marvin the ferryman and the stranger, man the oars. We first make the Canada shore, when we are obliged to bail boat. The ladies are not alarmed and very persevering. Proceed up this shore to about Forsythe's stairs, when having refitted we cross for the island; fall below the island and about 50 ft. below the Riband Fall, and under the ledge of rocks by the American Fall. Here we attempt to stem the current. Finding it impossible to make head way with a boat badly fitted and one third full of water, we conclude to bear away for the Canada shore and make another attempt. Having cleared the boat & all things in readiness, we again start, but again fall below and into the rapids of the American Fall close under the reef of rocks that base that fall. Exert every nerve to stem the torrent, but in vain. Again make the Canada shore. Finding the courage of the ladies to continue & the crew still full of perseverance, I insist upon their making one other attempt in the manner I advise. Having rested, the boat is carried along the shore as high as we can get her and very near a heavy rapid, above which it was not safe to go. From this point we again embark in fine cheer. We again fall a few feet below the eddy of the island, but gaining new strength from the near approach, we made an exertion of every nerve and reached the desired spot. Thus, after three attempts, we succeeded in landing at a spot where human feet had seldom trod before and where certainly females never trod til now. We found a heavy surf beating on the shore, which at another time and place we might have thought a danger, but eager to land we sprung on shore careless of the waves, and having secured our boat proceeded to examine the mysteries of this unknown spot. The rocks that have fallen from above have formed a plane, at 246 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY the usual inclination, of about ioo feet perpendicular height. These are easily surmounted, when you arrive at the base of a perpendicular cliff of more than ioo feet of solid rock, above which is 30 or 40 ft. of earth covering the island at this end. The breadth of the island is here about . . . feet, and you may walk with ease to the cataract on either side. On the American side you cannot go under the sheet of water on account of a steep cliff of rock upon which you must pass to reach it, making it a difficult and dangerous passage. On the other side the spray was so thick that nothing could be seen behind the cataract. The formation around indicates an easy pass behind this sheet when the wind drives the spray to the Canada shore. There is to be found under this island many rich specimens of chrystals of the lime forma- tion, the rhomboidal & dog-tooth chrystals prevail, and some cavities of the lime stone are filled with rich specimens of the laminated selenite. I found and have preserved the different minerals under this island. After remaining here about iy 2 hours we re-embarked, having been amply compensated for our labor. On approaching the American stairs we discovered the friends of the party collected to welcome our return from an expedition heretofore thought hazardous & as we had failed twice in getting there and been absent for some time their anxiety was considerable for our safety. To reach the foot of Iris Island, it is necessary to ascend as high on the Canada shore as the rapids will permit. You may then in a proper boat well-manned easily make the eddy of Iris Island and avoid dropping down so low as to fall into united current of both falls, which was our case each attempt. It is contem- plated by Judge Porter to drop a chain ladder to the foot of this island. He intends to form one of links about one foot in length and, by cross bars, make a ladder for the adventurous traveller to visit this interest- ing place. The view of the Falls is more limited than might be supposed from this position. They are obscured from you by an impenetrable and constant spray. The partial view, however, is grand beyond de- scription and richly repays the fatigue of getting there. With the present boat and such a crew as accident may put in her, I would dis- suade all persons from making the attempt to visit the foot of Iris Island. On my return I found the party I had accompanied to Man- chester anxiously waiting my arrival, and prepared to continue the jaunt homeward. Having loaded the carriage with a goodly weight of minerals, we took leave of Judge Porter and family and of my interest- ing as well as beautiful companion in danger (Mrs. Davidson), and made the best of our way for Black Rock. About 8 in the evening we reached the General's house — all much delighted with our jaunt. Re- main there this night. Sunday, July 18. Visit the gentlemen in camp at Caijochquadoz BOOK FIVE 247 Creek 1 and remain to dine with them, return to take leave of Mrs. Porter and friends and in the evening Messrs. Bird & Ferguson go with me to Buffalo. Find there our friends from Sacket's Harbor, Worth, Heileman, ladies & sisters, &c, &c. The comet 2 is said to be so far North as not to set to us. It is apparent until daylight. Monday, July 19. Clear and pleasant, wind S.W. Dine with Mrs. Porter & meet there the officers & their ladies from Sacket's Harbor. The steam boat Walk in the W'ater gets under way for Detroit. Her towing line parts and she drops down below Gen'l Porter's house. A new hawser is prepared, kept afloat by four boats, and with seven yokes of oxen she is drawn up the rapids, her steam assisting. At night return to Buffalo, with difficulty avoiding Mrs. Porter's hospitable so- licitations to remain. Draw on H. & W. Delafield 3 this day for one hundred dollars in favor of J. B. Stuart who supplies me with current paper here. Pay a judgement recovered against Majr. Worth at his request for 40 dlls. By the steam boat Genl. Porter sends to Erie requesting that the schooner Ghent be ordered down to transport our party to the islands opposite Sandusky, Capt. Deacon having offered this service. Tuesday, July 20. Clear and pleasant, Tempe. mode. Remain at Buffalo. Advise H. & W. Delafield by this evening's mail of my draft on them in favor of J. B. Stuart for 100 dlls., and forward them at same time a draft on Col. G. Hawkins to their order for same amount. Wednesday, July 21. Clear, very warm. In the evening walk to Black Rock & spend evening at Majr. Fraser's; sleep at camp. The survey is completed for a short distance into Lake Erie and the party now waits for a public vessel, the Ghent from Erie, to take them to the islands in the lake. Thursday, July 22. Clear & pleasant, wind S.W. Leave the camp after breakfast in company with Messrs. Douglass, Ferguson & Bird upon a mineralogical excursion to the lake shore near Fort Erie. The shore of the lake at this point consists of horizontal strata of lime stone, extending as far as the eye can reach into the lake. In these rocks are a variety of singular formations. The most common are cavities, round in shape, filled, in some instances coated, with a madrepore, like a honey-comb, in the crevices of which are sometimes seen little sparks of quartz. Sometimes they are empty, and sometimes filled with a carbonate of lime. It may be remarked that they generally are found with one end drawing to a point, like the thick end of the clam. There 1 Carjochquadoz Creek. 1 The Comet. Probably Pons-Winnecke. * Henry and William Delafield. 248 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY are also in these rocks numerous nodules imbedded resembling oysters — a variety of petrifactions shooting thro' the rocks probably madre- pores, that in the solid rock resemble & are called by the laborers about this, worms. When they extend beyond and upon the surface of the rock they look like coral. Specimens of each kind are preserved. Appearances of petrified eels, as called, but probably madrepores, are to be seen, but are not to be procured without the chisel. The forma- tion of rock corresponds with that on the opposite side of the lake. Up the Buffalo Creek are extensive ledges of a coarse, slaty stone. When first broken, they emit an unpleasant sulphurous smell and are de- composed on exposure to the atmosphere. They have been drawn up for building stone, but in the hand of the mason will crumble to small pieces. Muscle shells and scales of fish are found petrified in this slate stone. Return from Erie to Buffalo in the afternoon. Friday, July 23. Wry warm and sultry, at noon light breeze from W.S.W., hazy. Afternoon wind E. & S.E., but very warm. Remain at Buffalo. Messrs. Douglass and De Russy 1 spend afternoon with me. Saturday, July 24. Wind E., very warm and cloudy. Messrs. Fraser & DeRussy spend afternoon with me. Evening cloudy, much lightning but no rain; warm. Sunday, July 25. Clear, wind S.W.; warm. At noon the U.S. Schooner Ghent arrives to carry our party up the lake. She drops down to Black Rock. J'b. Le Roy, Mrs. Newbold & Miss Caroline LeRoy arrive at Buffalo & leave in the afternoon. Visit Gen'l Porter at Black Rock; large party there. In the evening the steam boat ar- rives from Detroit with 40 passengers, among them a party of young men on a visit to the Falls, or, as they said, to take recreation by getting into the country; the first travellers for pleasure probably from that quarter to this. Return to Buffalo with the steam boat passengers. Night cloudy. Mr. D. Colden comes in the steam boat from his mission to Tennessee to present Gen'l Jackson with the gold box & freedom of the City of N. York voted by the corporation — and other passengers from the western states on their way to N. York. WYite to Col. Hawkins advising him of my intention to return, if I should not hear from him. Gen'l Porter tells me the secretary will give notice of any meeting that may be ordered. Monday, July 26. Rain, wind E. & S.E. The grain is in many 1 Major Louis G. de Russy, born in 1796, died 1864. Graduated West Point 18 14. Became a planter in Louisiana, an engineer, a member of the State Senate and a Major General of militia. He joined the Confederate Army in the Civil War. He was appointed a topographer to the American Commission on the boundary in 181 9. BOOK FIVE 249 places cut; the Country in great want of rain, continues to rain through- out the day. Among the wonders of the day was to me an hermaphro- dite horse. It was rode by a boy peddling green peas & stopt at Lan- den's. I had only the rumor for the fact. The gentlemen of the camp all engaged making preparations to embark in the Ghent up the lake. Send on board their heavy baggage. Visit the camp and Gen'l Porter in the afternoon, and return evening. Find Landen's House full of travellers to the Falls, Govr. Phillips and party from Boston and many others. Tuesday, July 27. Strong wind from S.W., cool and pleasant. The Ghent prevented sailing by force of the wind. Remain at Buffalo, making preparations to return home. Send off a box of minerals and a bale of bedding to be forwarded to N. York. Send them to the store of John Lay, who is to deliver them at the rate of 2 dlls. pr. cwt., that being the common rate of transportation for goods down. For trans- portation up they charge at the rate of 3.75/100 dlls. At night Mr. Sands & wife & Miss Stevens arrive. Wednesday, July 28. Wind S.W. and rain; at noon clears off. Write to Mr. Curtois at Kingston and advise him of shipment of plants from N. York to his friend at Liverpool by H. & W. Delafield 1 as requested, and of the cost, etc. Send letter by Mr. Sands to be mailed at Queenston. In the afternoon accompany Mr. Sands & party to Black Rock. Take leave of Mrs. Porter & family, Majr. Fraser & gentlemen of camp, &c, &c. Receive from Gen'l Porter a draft in favor of H. & W\ Delafield for two hundred and twelve dollars & ninety six cents. Ad- vise them of forwarding same this day. Draft bears date July 29th. Same day draw on H. & W. Delafield in favor of J. B. Stuart for one hundred dollars, & also advise them of so doing. Make preparations to leave Buffalo in the morning. Thursday, July 29. At 5 o'clock a.m. leave Buffalo in the stage. Clear, wind light from S.W. and very warm.- The road very good with the exception of a few log causeways west of Batavia, and some west of LeRoy. From Canandaiga east the road is as good as in most parts of the state. In the spring and autumn it is bad & must be so, on account of the level country and the clay and loam over which it passes. Dine at Batavia and lodge at Avon, east side of the Gennessee River. At LeRoy there appears to be more improvement going on than in the other villages. The season, however, is very dull through- out the county and a temporary stop is put to the growth of these 1 Henry and William Delafield. 2 For names of towns and distances, see the end of the Journal. 250 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY promising towns. Canandaiga situated at the head of the lake of the same name is the most beautiful village I have ever seen. It was laid off in town lots by Mr. Phelps (Phelps & Gorham, the purchasers of a great tract here) having fixed upon it as the county town &c. The lots are forty acres each with a narrow front on the street. Every house has its garden in sight from the street and a courtyard of shrubs and flowers before it. Every house is built with more or less exterior orna- ment and the village has the appearance of wealth and comfort to the traveller. Mr. Granger has built the most costly establishment. Mr. Gregg, Mr. Gorham and other gentlemen of large estates reside at Canandaiga. This lake is about 20 miles in length and from \y£ to 3 miles wide. Friday, July 30. Leave Avon at 5 o'clock a.m. Breakfast at West Bloomfield and dine at Geneva. What is said of Canandaiga under date of yesterday should come under this date. Call on Mr. Colt & family, who induced me to remain at Geneva. This day exceeding warm & uncomfortable. Geneva is a very pretty village and is extended lengthwise on the lake at its foot and opposite its outlet thro' the Sen- eca River, which empties into the Cayuga Lake. Geneva is not now .so flourishing as it has been. Col. Troup 1 resides at this place and is the Agent for the Pultency estate; keeps the land office here. This estate has already yielded by sales of land and the interest paid on purchases about 2 millions of dollars and it is said will yield as much more from the sale of the residue. The heirs to the greater part of it are in England, being two infants, the children of Sir. . . . The lake of Geneva is 40 miles in length and about 3 miles broad near the village. It is called the Seneca Lake. It contracts its breadth as it lies south. The village of Ovid is in sight from Geneva. Saturday, July 31. Remain at Mr. Colt's, Geneva. Wind S.W., very warm. In the afternoon accompany Miss Colt and Miss Gault on a ride round the foot of the lake. Cross its outlet about 2 y£ or 3 miles from Geneva. The ride is very pleasant and is on the beach. This village now contains .... inhabitants, and 25 years ago when Mr. Colt first came here there was not a house in the place, excepting an Indian trading post on the shore of the lake. The house occupied by the bank was the first house built on the hill & was the residence of Mr. Hallett, deceased. The Indian name for Geneva was Canandasaga, which means pleasant place; Canandaigua means . . . . ; Skeneateles means hand- 1 Colonel Robert Troup, born in 1757, died in 1832, a distinguished lawyer and officer in the War of the Revolution. BOOK FIVE 251 some squaw; Ontario, a garden. Thus the names given by the natives seem to have been both appropriate & sonorous. Sunday, August 1. Remain at Geneva. Clear and exceedingly warm, Thermr. at 4 p.m. at 94 Far. Attend Church with Mr. Colt's family. The Episcopal Congregation is small but very respectable. Among the Presbyterians there is at present what is called an awaken- ing. The Church is open for prayers & hymns every evening and on Sunday, service is performed 5 times in the day, commencing with prayers at 5 o'clock in the morning. Mr. Clark is the Episcopal Clergy- man. The Churches in this part of the state are numerous and pretty well attended, most of the villages having a church for each of the two leading classes of Christians, viz: Episcopalian & Presbyterian. Monday, August 2. Clear & very warm. Miss Colt, Miss Gault and myself set out on a visit to Mr. Hallett and family at Pulteney- ville. From Geneva to Pulteneyville is 34 miles, passing thro Vienna & Lyons. The former is a very pretty town, has mills &c. Meet Mr. Hallett about 10 miles from his place, who returns with us. Reach his house about sunset, having been detained by a refreshing shower at Hickey's, a log hut called by our party "the bread and butter house," from the circumstances of its being the usual place for a luncheon. Pulteneyville is handsomely situated on the lake, about 7 miles west from Sodus & nearly equidistant between Sacket's Harbor and Niagara River. It was settled by Mr. Hallett who purchased a tract from the Pulteney estate of 1000 acres in this neighborhood, at 10 shillings per acre, which was a condition granted him when he entered upon the agency of that estate. He had a special agency for 10 years, and among his privileges was the right to select 1000 acres at 10 shillings. His selection was judicious as to soil, but for rapid settlement other places appear to have had the advantage. It remains, however, for further experiment to decide as to the foresight which the several proprietors have evinced in their speculations. The whole country is rich and till- able, and it is very rare to find an acre of waste land. The evenings are here generally cool, with a breeze from the lake. After the fatigues of the day from excessive heat, we found ourselves much refreshed on our approach to the lake. Its cooling influence was sensibly felt within 2 or 3 miles. Tuesday, August 3. Clear & very warm. Mr. Hallett accompanies us to the ridge road which is four miles from Pulteneyville. We ride a few miles west on the ridge & return. There are many evidences of this ridge having been the lake shore. The regular course of the water worn stones & pebbles & the appearance of the lake deposit at the foot of the ridge are the most prominent corroborations. Between Pulteneyville and the ridge and about 1 mile north from the ridge is 252 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY to be seen a vast collection of petrifactions, mostly of shells. There is an extent of 2 miles where the stones are filled with these shells, lying parallel with the ridge. Specimens of the various petrifactions found here are preserved. See collection. Wednesday, August 4th. Clear and continues very warm. Our party accompanied by Mr. Hallett ride to Sodus after breakfast and dine at Troupville. To Sodus Harbor from Pulteneyville by the ridge road is 16 miles thro' the woods; by the lake it is about 8 miles. Sodus affords the largest bay on the lake, excepting Sacket's Harbor. There is about 1 1 ft. water on the bar. The bar, it is said, consists of clay & gravel and it is thought an excavation would be permanent. We found it very unhealthy in this neighborhood. At Nicholas Point across the bay, there were 18 persons sick of the typhus fever, which is perhaps half their population. This point is considered unhealthy, from the circumstance of contiguous low lands, over which the prevailing winds reach the point. The settlement at Sodus is called Troupville. It is a port of entry and a collector resides at the landing. About 2^ or 3 miles west of Sodus commences a range of lofty hills. They are five in number and equidistant, being half a mile asunder, are of a conical form and are the first lands seen on crossing the lake from the Canada shore. W T e are detained too long at Sodus, waiting for a miserable din- ner at the tavern, to cross the bay as we intended. Return to Pulteney- ville to sup. Thursday, August 5. Clear but continues warm. Take leave of Mrs. Hallett and her charming little family and set off on our return to Geneva by the way of Palmyra, and the Sulphur Springs. Mr. Hallett accompanies us in his gig, taking Miss Gault, leaving Miss Colt and myself the . . . - 1 (a light wagon). We pass thro Palmyra, Manchester & by the Springs, making a ride of about 40 miles. The road is all very good and the country handsomely cultivated & settled, resembling more the oldest than the newest parts of the state. The villages are flourishing and handsomely built. The canal it is now said is to run by Manchester. The Sulphur Springs are worthy of a visit. There are several of them, but the one improved for the use of visitors is situated at the foot of a beautiful grove, which affords a pleasant retreat in the warmest weather. There is a cold shower bath house, not, however, in the best condition. The public house is miserably kept, indeed it appears like a deserted barrack, for we could not find a person belonging to the house during our short stay. It is a large building, intended to accom- 1 The writing of this word is illegible. BOOK FIVE 253 modate a numerous party, and was formerly much frequented. Its neglected condition has nearly reduced it to such state of waste and want of comfort that the traveller may pass from Geneva to Can- andaigua without hearing of the Sulphur Springs. The spring that is improved rises from the limestone rock in a handsome, oblong basin. There are other springs rising from a neighboring swamp, where may be seen a vast deposit of native sulphur. When dried it assumes a granular appearance, but is readily reduced by the hand to a substance as fine & seemingly pure, as the sulphur of the shops. The water of these springs is very cold, more particularly that rising from the rocks. We return to Geneva by 9 o'clock in the evening, having much en- joyed our visit to Pulteneyville. Friday, August 6. Remain with Mr. Colt's family at Geneva. Very warm. Spend the evening with Mr. & Mrs. Bunall & party at their house on the hill east of Geneva. Mr. Bunall presents me with hand- some specimens of the petrifactions found at Cochany Creek. This creek empties into the Seneca Lake about six miles from Geneva, and on the same side, where it has made a deep cut (as described to me) thro' limestone rock, and has exposed to view a variety of petrifactions. Bivalves, encrinites, 1 and madrepores 2 of many kinds, & some prob- ably not described, are found here; the same petrifactions I also found at the Sulphur Springs. Mr. Bunall considers them a vegetable root. He gave me from Cochany Creek petrified bivalves and a trilobite. 3 They differ from any that I have seen in other places. Also the wood petrifactions, and a small stone containing the print of what he calls the craw-fish, but resembles more the large bee, or a species of the butterfly (trilobite). The several specimens are preserved. The Seneca Lake never freezes, a remarkable circumstance, ac- counted for by the springs that rise in the lake. In the winter season it is said in the coldest weather to be seen smoking like a cauldron. The springs are no doubt very strong and must rise from the bottom of the lake. The water is impregnated with lime. It is used for all pur- poses by those who reside nearest the shores. The Cochany Creek was named by the Indians, and means a place of no frost. This county of Ontario is the third in population in the state. It contains 60,000 inhabitants. New York and Dutchess take precedence. Its wealth must now be very great and its future con- sequence can hardly be imagined. A great part already resembles the 1 Encrinites, the former name of a family of crinoids which contained the perma- nently stalked forms which suggested lilies. 8 Madrepores, a porphyrite stone-coral belonging to the genus Madreporidae. 3 Trilobite, a type of fossil found only in Palaeozoic rocks: exclusively marine in habitat. 254 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY oldest counties in the state. The farms all show wealth and comfort, and the continued fields of wheat and corn, and orchards of peaches and apples delight, as well as astonish the traveller. No farm of any consequence is without them; and these sons of the sod will talk of the best fruit and plants from Prince's nurseries, with more familiarity and intelligence than many of our New York gardeners. The pear tree flourishes extremely well, but they are not yet nu- merous, owing to their slow growth. The apple, peach, cherry, grape, apricot and nectarine flourish throughout this district of country and do at this time abound. A Mr. Ledyard at Pulteneyville carries on a trade to supply the Kington market with the fruits of the fall season. Saturday, August 7. Clear and very warm. At 3 p.m. take leave of my friends at Geneva & proceed in the stage to the Skeneateles Lake to lodge. For the towns on this route and their relative distances, see toward end of Journal. The village of Waterloo has had a surprising growth and Mr. Elisha Williams, 1 the proprietor, has built a brick house at this place for an hotel of very large extent, I should say at least 50 by 60 ft., with outhouses in proportion. The bridge across the Cayuga Lake is one mile in length — the lake is about 40 miles. These lakes are all of a similar form, and from their uniform width as far as the eye reaches they have more the appearance of noble rivers than of lakes; and this delusion is strong when you are out of sight of either end of the lake. The Skeneateles Lake is 15 miles in length. It is generally considered as more picturesque & beautiful than the others. I was much pleased on my approach to it, because of peculiar circumstances. The moon was shining silver bright, and the scenery was rendered grand by the heavy, lowering clouds that occasionally reflected their deep shades over the lake. We drove up to the hotel at the foot of the lake under these alluring circumstances. At this point the land is about six feet above the level of the water, and the shore is skirted with a pebble beach, that was chafed at this moment by the gentle ripple of the lake. An exceeding hot day and dusty road were at once forgot in the scene so refreshing in itself. To complete the charm the syren voice of female beauty was not wanting; and while regaling til midnight on the lake shore, I could listen to the unrestrained expressions of delight that escaped the lips of the water nymphs that surrounded me. I could trace the finest form and sweetest neck in the world, of the fair maid that enchanted the spot, as the curtain that screened the window of an upper room that overlooked the lake, was occasionally removed by a gentle breeze, that seemed to visit in transport the lovely bosom it 1 Elisha Williams, born at Pomfret, Connecticut, in 1 773 and died in New York City. A prominent lawyer in New York State and in 181 5 founded the town of Water- loo. BOOK FIVE 255 exposed & to vie with the tresses that amorously sported in its loveli- ness, for a welcome caress. The pillow had lost its charm, even for the weary traveller, and I was fixed to the lake shore til the overpowering influence of the scene seemed by the fulness of its enjoyment to have exhausted the delicate strength of my fascinating window companions. When to me, the Skeneateles was converted to itself, and stript of the advantages that would have made a barren wilderness an Eden, I did not think the Skeneateles so very superior to the other lakes. Upon inquiry, I learned that the ladies in the window were Miss Baily & Miss Riggs from N. York on a visit to Niagara, who, unused to the fine scenery of this country, preferred a seat by the window to the rest of the pillow. The above rhapsody might be realized by the trav- eller who had just emerged from a few months' residence in the woods, but to all others, as to myself at another time & place, seems nonsense. Sunday, August 8th. Leave Skeneateles at 4 o'clock a.m. and ar- rive at Utica at 7 o'clock p.m., passing thro' 12 or 14 villages, for which and distances, see end of Journal. The Oneida Indians are still to be seen about their old settlement called the Oneida Castle. There is a Church near their settlement, built by the state for the Indians in part consideration for the cession of their Reservation. The Indians that I saw in this neighborhood were well-looking. The canal 1 is seldom seen from this road, altho we ride for a greater part of the distance nearly parallel with it. It is progressing very well & it is said will be excavated to the Seneca River in the course of the season, as also the locks constructed. Two bridges have been built across it. This day has been very warm. At Manchester there is a fine mill stream, well improved. New Hartford, once thought to be a rival of Utica, is on the decline, its inhabitants being great sufferers from the general pressure of the times. New Hartford, Whitesboro and Utica form the three points of an equilateral triangle and are three miles asunder. Monday, August 9th. Remain this day at Utica; lodge at Bagg's. Dine with Judge Miller & family. Call on Messrs. Lynch and Varick to inquire concerning the Jerseyfield lands. See Mr. Varick, Mr. Lynch being in Albany. Mr. Varick accompanies me to Mr. Breeze, where we find a map of the Jerseyfield tract, he owning lots there. Mr. Breeze has been on some of these lots. He states that there is a de- mand for some of them. The soil of some of the lots is very fine, and the timber valuable. The settlers are flocking there more numerous than at any other period. They are mostly from New England. Capt. 1 The Erie Canal. 256 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Thorpe still lives there. When Mr. Breeze visited these lands, he was accompanied by an agent for some proprietor. They put up at Thorpe's, the agent inquiring for his lots by No's; among others ask'd for the lot upon which Thorpe was settled and had cleared 150 acres. Thorpe had purchased it 16 years ago at 2 dlls. an acre. He was told that he had been defrauded in his purchase. It appeared that some swindling Yankee had given him a title and received the purchase money. The poor old man fell sick upon the information. It sealed his ruin, and was to take from him the dear bought labors of his industry & strength which have been wasted for the use of another and whose gains have enriched the knave who wantonly sacrificed to his avarice an honest man and reduced to want misery & disease a virtuous and worthy family. Of the Jerseyfield land, Mr. Breeze says that lot No. 17 is good; he has seen it; that No. 18 adjoining is much improved, and that ap- plications are making for this lot. It is worth three dollars an acre or more. He has had application made to him for the north half of that lot. We hold the south half, which he thinks more valuable from the circumstance of its being bounded south by a creek. No. 37 he does not know, but it is not near settlements & would not now sell to advantage. No. 49 he knows. The soil is good and neighborhood settled. It could be sold, he thinks, with lot No. 17 for three dollars an acre before the Fall. No. 73 he does not know. It is remote, and not in demand. No. 82 same as 73. No. 86 same as 73. These half lots generally exceed 500 acres, mostly he says will amount to 550 acres. He thinks it would be a bad bargain to sell the interest for 3,000 dollars. He advises to sell upon a credit, say for five yearly payments of principal and interest. Mr. Varick acquaints himself with these facts and I engage to send him power of att'y to sell, the power to be made out jointly in the names of James Lynch and Abraham Varick. It had better be a pretty general power. Mr. Lynch, it appears by a memorandum, had written to Mr. Frey, a surveyor at Canoja- harie, concerning these lots. Mr. Frey not having replied is the reason of Mr. Lynch not having given this information. Tuesday, August 10. Leave Utica at 3 o'clock a.m. in the stage and arrive in Schenectady at 5 p.m. The day exceedingly warm. Travel in company with a Mr. Guernsey who lives at Dunkirk on Lake Erie. He describes the mineral springs at that place as possessing high me- dicinal virtues. He could not say with what they were impregnated, but says that there is much fixed air, that pieces of silver turn dark in BOOK FIVE 257 it, and gold brighter, that sugar of lead throws down a black precipi- tate. Twelve miles from Dunkirk is to be seen the work of the extra- ordinary salt boring machine. The person who has undertaken this enterprise has already bored 700 feet in the earth. The process is carried on by means of the lever. His augur, or rather pole with a boring iron at the end, is 40 ft. long. This is secured by a strap to the end of a lever working on an upright at an angle of 45 , similar to the common mode of raising water from a well. Two men working at this lever, simply raising the augur pole and letting it drop, and one man to give a rotary motion to the augur pole at the place of boring, perform the operation. Additional boring rods are added by means of iron screws and cups as occasion requires. He has gone to the depth of 700 feet, has passed thro' a variety of strata, mostly slate, some coal, some little salt. The several strata are kept. His boring rods are three inches in diameter. From the hole is emitted an inflammable gas. Explosion is dreaded, and cautions against fire are taken. Near this hole is a spring which emits an inflammable gas that was used by this earth borer to light his house. He built a reservoir over the spring, and by pipes carried the gas to his house, which was near. An accidental explosion at the spring put an end to his gas light, after a season's use. There are other similar springs. He mentions one that in the winter season was exploded in a very remarkable manner. It emptied into, or formed a small lake, which was frozen over. Under the ice was confined a quantity of this inflammable air. A mischievous person on showing a traveller the spring took a fire brand & when he lighted the spring the fire spread under the ice bursting it open in a terrific manner with the noise of heavy cannon, and much to the astonishment of the visitors. The theory of the salt borer is that the nucleus of this earth is salt & everywhere to be found at certain depths, which he admits are as irregular as the surface of the earth. He argues that ocean is proof of his theory and accounts for its saltness by its bed being salt. Wednesday, August 1 1 . Leave Schenectady and reach Ballston Spa, Sans Souci Hotel, to dine; distance 14 miles. The day very warm. Find about 50 persons at Sans Souci, most of them from the South. The springs formerly used are now reduced very low on account of a new spring which burst thro the earth & stone two years ago at a short distance off. The spring is here sunk 23 feet and the water rises still higher in the fountain from which it is drank. Saratoga appears to be the favorite watering place and the hotel there is said to be filled. There are two tubes sunk at the spring now used at Ballston, the one 23 ft. the other 14. The short tube spring differs from the long tube spring, containing more salt. 258 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY The Sans Souci House can accommodate 150 persons, and 163 persons have sat down to dinner in the dining hall. Thursday, August 12. Remain at Ballston Spa. The weather ex- cessively warm. Drink of the water thro' the day, without much regard to time; however, find no good effect produced, on the contrary a slight pain in the head and a trifling inflammation of the eyes. The party this day increased by a number of visitors from Saratoga who return in the evening. Friday, August 13. Remain at Saratoga. The weather has under- gone a little change for the better. Drink three glasses of the lower tube spring one hour before breakfast. A greater quantity is drank by most, but I cannot so readily metamorphose my insides into a mineral reservoir. Four glasses are said to have a sure eifect. I again drank about 3 hours after breakfast as freely as I could, and did not find during the day that the waters had produced any change in the system of consequence enough to be of any service. The headache and in- flammation of the eyes not felt so sensibly as yesterday. The cathartic power of the water a little more active, perspiration more than usual and passage of urine very considerable. At night we have a ball which passes the evening very pleasantly. Miss De Paus, Channings of Boston, Norton, Bulow, Wayne, the ladies who grace the ball. Four or five cotillions concluded this evening's amusement. Saturday, August 14. Remain at Ballston. Drink this morning before breakfast of the Congress Water from Saratoga. A barrel of this water is brought every day from Saratoga for the accommodation of the visitors at Sans Souci. Do not rise sufficiently early to drink more than two glasses before breakfast, having joined the party at Brag after the ball. Find this water to contain much more salt, and drink a quantity of it with more ease than I can the Ballston water. It does not contain so much fixed air. Sunday, August 15. Remain at Ballston. Morning cloudy, at noon, rain; wind N.E. Attend the Episcopal Church. A young man by the name of Gregg preaches, and ventures a severe phillipic against the votaries of pleasure & of fashion. He seemed to think his discourse well timed, but it gave considerable offense, and was rather an evi- dence of his zeal than of his judgment or good breeding. Thh, morning I drink freely of the Congress Water; drink 5 & y^ glasses between six & seven o'clock. Have a trifling passage before breakfast & another toward evening: in all not equal to the ordinary state of things, when I pursue my usual diet, and take my usual exercise. Conclude to leave off the water drinking as a medicinal prescription. The rain continues during the night. Our party at Sans Souci remains the same. It con- sists chiefly of Southern people, who have no other means of getting BOOK FIVE 259 rid of the summer months, and a few New Yorkers in search of ad- ventures or of pastime. Monday, August 16. Remain at Ballston. Rains throughout the day, wind N.E. and cold. This day fires are made in the ladies' room. At night we have a ball. These balls are given by subscription. A list for that purpose is handed around the dinner table. Eighty eight per- sons sat down to dinner this day. About 30 subscribe to the balls at 1 50/100 each. Tuesday, August 17. Remain at Sans Souci. Rain continues, wind N.E; clears off in the afternoon. Messrs. Jones, Hutchinson and my- self, leave Sans Souci after dinner for a visit to Saratoga. Inspect the several springs. The Congress Spring is the one of most frequent resort. It is a surer purgative than either of the others, containing more salt. The others resemble in different degrees the Ballston Springs, but none contain so much fixed air as what is called the Long Tube Spring of Ballston. The High Rock Spring is a curiosity. You see on your approach to it, a conical shaped rock about 5 feet high and its base about twelve feet diameter. The apex of this rock shows the spring. A hole of about one foot diameter, rather irregular, passes down from its apex to a depth I did not ascertain, but the water is two feet from the apex of the cone, and it is at all times uniform in its heighth, what- ever quantity may be drawn off, or whatever may be the condition of the adjoining springs, or the state of the weather as to rain. The shape of this rock, and the manner by which the water is obtained, to wit, thro' a hole at its top, is what strikes you at first as very remarkable. I was at first of the opinion that ii was the effect of art, but the mo- ment you turn your attention to the rock, its composition and formation, you are no longer at a loss to account for its appearance. This spring in former times rose without doubt, upon its first bursting thro' the earth, perpendicularly to a heighth of some feet. It is now, and prob- ably was then still more strongly impregnated with lime. This jet of water as it fell, left a deposit of its lime upon the surface of the adjacent ground, to an unknown extent. This operation was carried on til the rock was formed as we now see it. And it continued to increase 'til some cause prevented these waters being forced thro' the hole at its present heighth. The bursting out of other springs would occasion it; and there is to be seen within 12 feet of this rock a similar formation of a lesser growth. The water rising to the top of the rock boiled over and, falling uniformly on all sides, made a cone. This spring is in a large ravine which, it appears to me, was at one time the bed of a river. Indeed, all these springs are in the same ravine, and from its banks are almost everywhere to be seen the issue of springs that are in no way improved or used, and some of them form a similar carbonate 260 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY of lime to the High Rock Spring, and this formation may be picked up anywhere in the neighborhood of the little streams that lead off the water of these springs. The High still preserves its conical form, altho on the side next the adjoining bank, the falling of rocks, the hand of the traveller or other cause has defaced its regularity. The outer side of the rock is hard. When once broken, however, a porous and softer substance is exposed, and it yields readily to a light blow, and wastes away with time. I could not learn that any attempt had been made to ascertain the depth of this formation at the High Rock Spring. Such an experiment would show the bed of the river, if it was a river, or the increase of the earth in this ravine if it has long been a ravine, for there can be no question but what there has been a regular deposit or formation of this rock from the level of the earth when it first made its erruption to its present heighth. Specimens of this formation are retained. The Flat Rock Spring lies in the same ravine. Its waters re- semble the Ballston waters but have not so much fixed air. There is the Columbian, The Presidents, and other springs, but the Congress Spring of all others, is the favorite and most efficacious. At the Con- gress and Flat Rock Spring there is a regular attendance upon visitoiv to help them to water. At the others there is not the same constant at- tendance because they are rather objects of curiosity than of use or steady resort. Boys, however, are always at hand to earn a few pence for the use of their tumblers, and drawing of the waters. At the High Rock Spring we tried an experiment with a chicken. We were told that a suspension of 20 seconds in the hole of the rock over the water would prove fatal. A well-grown chicken was obtained, and we placed him in the hole of the roek about eighteen inches down whilst the boy who held him counted 12, meaning thereby to keep the chicken in the hole 12 seconds. He counted faster than seconds, so that the chicken was down, say eight seconds. He was then laid on the grass, when the chicken, after a few struggles, lay apparently lifeless for about one minute. Then it was seen to commence respiration & it was soon upon its legs perfectly restored. Twenty seconds immersion would doubtless have killed the chicken. The boy who procured the chicken understood his business well. He was paid, of course, for a chicken; by saving its life his profit is enhanced and the poor chicken is again sold to gratify the cruelty of other travellers as careless as ourselves. At night we attend a ball at the Pavillion. The room was handsomely decorated with evergreens, and much taste displayed in their arrangement. A rivalship between this and the Congress Hall occasioned the exertions of the ladies & gentlemen at the Pavillion in this behalf. Their ball was better attended than ours at Sans Souci. The ladies from both houses and some from the village were present. The room was well filled, and the evening was passed very pleasantly. We returned to Sans Souci at night. BOOK FIVE 261 Wednesday, August 18, 18 19. About forty persons leave the Sans Souci house this day. At 1 1 o'clock a.m. I take leave of the party and proceed to Troy, where I stop for the night with Mr. Cushman and family. Thursday, August 19, 181 9. Leave Troy at 8 a.m. for Albany and leave Albany in the Richmond steam boat at 10 o'clock a.m. for N. York. Friday, August 20th, 1819. Arrive in New York at 6 o'clock a.m. See the U. S. Agent (Col. Hawkins) in the morning of same day and deliver over to him copy proceedings of the Board at their meeting in June, and communicate what had passed between the Commissioner and myself, relative to the misunderstandings between him and the Agent. Advise Col. Hawkins to give notice to the Commissioner of his holding himself ready at this place to attend any meetings of the Board that may be ordered. Sunday, May 7, 1820. Arrive in Washington in company with Mr. & Mrs. Payne 1 and take our lodgings at Strother's. May 8th. Wait upon the Secretary of State and Mr. Pleasonton, 2 the auditor, and explain to them the object of my visit, to wit the settle- ment of the accounts of the Agent for boundaries &c, Col. Hawkins. Mr. Adams promises to reflect upon the obstacles that present them- selves & Mr. Pleasonton to prepare papers &c. Make frequent calls at the Department without much progress until the 17th. May 17, 1820. Waited upon the Secretary of State, Mr. Adams, and conversed with him fully upon the several topics heretofore sub- mitted relating to the Agent's accounts: State to him the reasons given by Gen'l Porter why the Agent's accounts were not audited by the Board, as gathered from a paper of the General's on file in the Department, wherein he states the dissent of Mr. Ogilvy to such an arrangement. Mr. Adams examines the Ghent Treaty & concludes that it would be most proper that the Agent's accounts be first sub- mitted to the Board for their sanction; and in case the Board decline acting upon them, that the American Commissioner should certify as to the same. Agree with Mr. Adams to have them prepared for such purpose. Mr. Adams consents that my salary- account be rendered dis- tinct from the Agent's, and approves of it. Render same to the auditor, Mr. Pleasonton. Mr. Brent furnishes me with a receipt of Col. Hawkins for 1500 dlls. received from Gen'l Porter, with which Col. Hawkins ap- pears chargeable, and I give it to Mr. Pleasonton. This receipt in- 1 Mr. and Mrs. William Payne of Boston. She was Catharine Hallett, born February 22, 1768, aunt of Major Joseph Delafield. 1 S. Pleasanton of the U.S. Treasury in 1820. 262 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY creases the balance against Col. Hawkins to the sum of 1800 dlls. accord- ing to the most favorable statement of his account I can make. This result proving so contrary to the one contemplated either by Col. Hawkins, Mr. Pleasonton or myself, we agree that it is best to leave the Col.'s accounts in statu quo, thinking that he is entitled to some credit that we are not aware of, or that there is error in some of the debits. Heretofore have furnished Mr. Pleasonton with an abstract of the vouchers for the year 181 7, to supply the place of the abstract & vouchers mislaid in the Department. Confer with Mr. Adams as to the propriety of my repairing to the boundary line, to represent the U.S. in the absence of an Agent, his office having been vacated. State to him the advantages to be gained, the services to be rendered, and the difficulties to be obviated. He desires that I supply him with a mem- orandum in writing of my suggestions, that he may lay them before the President. Promise to do so, and to prepare a note to the Secretary upon the subject. May 18, 1820. Prepare note to the Secretary of State upon subject of appointment to the boundary commission, and submit same to him to be laid before the President. Get my salary account pass'd by Mr. Pleasonton, the auditor, and obtain thro' the Treasury a warrant for the balance due me — say 402.78 dlls. Write to Col. Hawkins, informing him that the Secretary has con- cluded that his accounts must be sanctioned by the Board, or by the American Commissioner before being audited here; that Mr. Pleasonton & myself had agreed that nothing should be done with them until they were revised by him; that upon my statement of his accounts a bal- ance appeared against him; that an item of 1800 dlls. was shown as a debit about which neither I or Mr. Pleasonton knew anything; that certain documents said to be forwarded by the Col. from Mobile to Mr. Pleasonton had not come to hand, and gave him amount of debits & credits as they were known to me. Also wrote to Mrs. Hawkins advising her that the Col.'s accounts could not at present be settled. 1 1 The next day, May 19, 1820 shows no entry in Major Delafield's Diary, which begins again on May 31, 1820. The Journal of July 24, 1822, however, shows that on that day, May 19, 1820, John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State, gave him the following letter: "Department of State Washington 19th May, 1820. Joseph Delafield, Esq. Sir: Having laid before the President of the United States your letter of the 17th inst. I am directed by him to authorize your attendance upon the Commission under BOOK FIVE 263 Post Route from Buffalo to Albany Miles From Buffalo to Williamsville 10 Thence to Clarence Stage House 8 To Pembroke Stage House 7 To Batavia Court House 14 To Le Roy 10 To Caledonia 7 To Avon 7 To Lima Post Office 6 To West Bloomfield 5 To East Bloomfield 6 To Canandaigua 8 To Geneva 1 04 16 To Waterloo 10 To Cayuga 6 To Aurelius 4 To Auburn 4 To Skeneateles 7 To Marcellus 6 11 Marcellus to Onandaga 141 10 To Jamesville 4 To Manlius 6 161 Miles Brought F'd 161 To Chittening 6 To Vernon thro' Canasaragua Oneida Casde and Oneida 17 To Manchester 8 To New Hartford 5 To Utica 201 4 Utica to Herkimer 15 the 6th and 7th articles of the Treaty of Ghent; for the purposes mentioned in your letter; and subject to the assent of the Commissioner, General Porter, whose directions in relation to the objects of your attention in this employment you will please to take and observe. Your compensation will continue as heretofore, with such further al- lowance for necessary expenses as the Commissioner shall approve and may be al- lowed within the existing appropriation. I am very respectfully, Sir, Your most humble & obt. Ser. — John Quincy Adams" Text: Journal, p. 43. 264 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY To little Falls 7 To Palatine thro' Johansville 14 To Palatine Bridge & Church 6 To Johnstown Stage House thro' Kawnawaga 15 To Amsterdam Stage House thro' Amsterdam 12 To Schenectady 12 To Albany 95 14 miles 296 from Buffalo to Albany Amount expenses incurred on public account during Season of 181 9 on Boundary Line July 20th, 181 9. Amount bro. from last journal 87.46 27th Pd for a box to carry Records and Stationery 3. 29th Landen's Bill for board and lodging &c &c 77-5° " Breakfast at Williamsville 50 " Dinner at Batavia 50 " Stage fare from Clarence to Batavia 1.50 " Stage fare from Batavia to Canandaiga 3.75 " Supper & lodging at Avon 75 30th Breakfast at Bloomfield .50 " Saturday to Monday at Geneva 3.50 " Stage Fare from Canandaiga to Geneva 1.50 " Washing at Geneva 1.25 " Stage fare from Geneva to Auburn 2.25 183.96 Amt expenses bro. over 183.96 Stage fare from Auburn to Skeneateles .50 Supper lod'g & liquor at Skeneateles 1 . Stage fare from Skeneateles to Utica 4.75 Breakfast at Manlius .50 Dinner & drink at Vernon 75 Tavern expenses at Utica including washing 2.25 Pd postage for Agent at Utica 94 Stage fare from Utica to Schenectady 6. Breakfast at Herkimer 50 Dinner at Johnstown 50 Supper lod'g & breakfast at Schenectady 1.25 & Servants & barber 50 Stage fare from Schenectady to Albany 1 . Board & lod'g at Albany 1 day & night 2.50 For Portgage of baggage to Steam Boat 50 Steam Boat fare to NYork 8. Postage on pub. acct while absent 2.50 BOOK FIVE 265 Portage from Steam Boat .50 $218.40 From Schenectady to Ballston, pd 1 .50 Bill at Sans Souci 14-25 Washing do 1 .50 Servants do 2. Stage fare to Troy 1 .50 To Albany .50 Going to Saratoga returning to Sans Souci from Saratoga & expenses at Saratoga 4. 2525 BOOK SIX May ji , 1820 to August 13, 1820 Wednesday, May 31, 1820. Leave New York in the steam boat Chancellor Livingston at 4 o'clock p.m., in company with Mr. & Mrs. Dickinson 1 and daughter of Troy. Thursday, June 1. Arrive at Albany at 1 o'clock p.m. Stop at Bamman's. Leave Albany at 4 o'clock p.m. and lodge at Schenectady. Meet at Albany Col. Wool, Qmr. Gen'l 2 & proceed in company. Friday, June 2. Leave Schenectady about 6 o'clock a.m. and ar- rive at Utica before dark to lodge. The canal is now travelled by passengers from Utica to Syracuse but not with as much expedition as by stages, therefore relinquish the canal route. Saturday, June 3.' Leave Utica at 3 o'clock a.m. and arrive at Auburn to lodge before sunset. Visit the new state prison. Is now finishing, by the completion of a wing. Has 180 convicts. A fine build- ing of handsome lime stone. Window sills are of red sand stone quar- ried in the neighborhood, as is also grey and other colored sand stones. The building is disfigured by a trumpery wooden cupola. Sunday, June 4. Leave Auburn about 5 a.m. and arrive at Can- andaiga about 1 p.m. Attend the Episcopal Church in afternoon and immediately after Church proceed on our route, being joined, or rather 1 Mr. & Mrs. John D. Dickinson of Troy. 1 Lieut. Col. John Ellis Wool. Inspector General, born at Newburg, New York, Feb. 20, 1784. After a long service in the army during which rose to the grade of Major General, he retired and died at Troy, New York, where an obelisk com- memorates him. 3 On June 3, 1820, the Board met at Grosse Isle with Porter as Commissioner and Anthony Barclay as Commissioner present, and John Hale his Majesty's Agent present. A note explains that John Ogilvy, the former Commissioner for England, had died on Sept. 28, 181 9, and that Anthony Barclay had presented credentials as his successor (Journal, p. 35. His commission is given on pp. 35-36). On June 3, 1820 Commissioner Barclay presented to the Board a commission from the Prince Regent, appointing him Commissioner, that office having been made vacant by the death of Col. John Ogilvy, Sept. 28, 181 9 (Journal of July 24, 1822, P- 35). The names of the men taking oaths from 181 7 to 1820 appear in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent. Arts. VI and VII, Envelope III, Folder 3. BOOK SIX 267 finding in the stage Mrs. Phil. Schuyler 1 & son of Rhinebeck, and Rev'd Mr. Burroughs, 2 of Portsmouth, on their way to Niagara Falls. Lodge at Avon, Gennessee River. Monday, June 5. Leave Avon about 4 a.m. and arrive at Buffalo before sunset. Take rooms at Landen's. Tuesday, June 6. Col. Wool & myself accompany Mrs. Schuyler & son & Mr. Burroughs to the Falls. Cross from Buffalo to Fort Erie, examine the fort & battle ground, and proceed in an elegant post chaise, first put on the route by Forsyth, to his house at the Falls to dine &c. View the Falls from Table Rock & the stairs. On account of a pe- culiar state of the atmosphere there was neither much spray nor noise this day. Could distinctly look under the sheet of water from a point of table rock, so little was the spray, & at Forsyth's house the noise was not heard without listening for the purpose. After dinner Col. Wool leaves us to inspect the post at Niagara, & Mr. Burroughs accompanies him. Wednesday, June 7. Leave Forsyth's after breakfast & accompany Mrs. Schuyler to Queenston. Cross to Lewistown where we meet Col. Wool & Mr. Burroughs & proceed to the Falls on the American side. Show the party the wonders of this side. Visit Iris Island, and after dinner Col. Wool & self take leave of our pleasant companions and proceed to Buffalo, to prepare for our western tour in the steam boat Walk in the Water — he for the Falls of St. Anthony & St. Louis on a tour of inspection of the military posts, and I for the Boundary Line party in the Detroit River. Thursday, June 8th. Am roused in the morning by the signal gun of the Walk in the Water steam boat on her return from Detroit. Proceed to Black Rock and take berths for Col. Wool & myself. Learn that Gen'l Porter had left the boundary party & gone to meet his lady on her way from Kentucky via Sandusky. Conclude therefore to pro- ceed to Sandusky and wait for the Gen'l there. Friday, June 9th. Remain at Buffalo making preparations for my departure West. In the afternoon ride to Black Rock, and send on board the Walk in the Water from the portage ware house one store chest, a north west travelling chest, and a bale of blankets. Leave all the other camp equipage belonging to the Agency in store under the care of Mr. Sill. Saturday, June 10th. Embark from Black Rock in the steam boat, Walk in the Water, at 9 o'clock a.m. The boat is towed up the rapids 1 Mrs Philip Schuyler. * Rev. Charles Burroughs, born in Boston, Mass. Dec. 27, 1787 and was for nearly half a century rector of St. John's Church, Portsmouth, New Hampshire. 268 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY by the aid of i o yoke of oxen. The hawser supported by a line of small boats. Baggage taken on board: One large leather trunk One small do do One gun in case One red store chest One bale blankets One table top About 1 1 o'clock at night reach Erie; stop to land passengers, which is attended with some difficulty, on account of a heavy sea on shore. Wind N.E. throughout the day. The steam boat takes on freight, a full cargo of Indian goods on account of the S.W. Comp'y to Mackina. 1 Mr. Crooks 2 the Agent with three others of the concern go as passengers. Freight estimated at 3,000 dlls. The boat last year took a freight to Mack- ina including passage money of 5,000 dlls. Sunday, June nth. Wind strong from N.E. A heavy sea causes some of the passengers to complain. Are obliged to run by Grand River and Cleveland on account of the wind, and carry the passengers for those places to Sandusky. Come to anchor in the lee of Cunningham Island off Sandusky Bay at 9 o'clock p.m., having run from Erie 160 miles since 2 o'clock a.m. From Buffalo to Detroit is called 320 miles. To Erie go Erie to Sandusky 160 Sandusky to Detroit . . 70 320 Speaking of the fish of these waters Mr. Varnum, a fellow traveller, informs me that the eels ascend the Illinois to River Plein, and that he has known them, when that river was full, to pass from the waters of the Illinois to the waters of Lake Michigan. Nevertheless, eels are not known in these lakes or waters above the Falls of Niagara, nor the Falls of the Ottawa in that direction. Mr. Varnum thinks not because they cannot reach these waters, but he seems to think that they cannot live in waters not having a communication with the ocean. Mr. Crooks related to Col. W r ool a remarkable fact as to the point where the waters separate that flow into the Illinois, from those that flow into Lake Michigan. Chicago River and Plein River take their rise in a small lake or pond having the appearance of a little swell of 1 Mackinaw. 2 Ramsey Crooks, born in Greenock, Scotland, January 2, 1787. For a good account of him see The Discovery of the Oregon Trail, by Philip Ashton Rollins, Foreword LXXXII et seq. BOOK SIX 269 the river only. Mr. Crooks says that in this pond he & his companion floated from the extreme ends of his canoe two feathers, the one took the waters of the Illinois, the other the waters of Lake Michigan! These streams are very insignificant at this point, but occasionally canoes do pass from Michigan to the Illinois without portage. Monday, June 12. At day light we leave the steam boat under Cunningham Island and take passage in a small schooner for San- dusky, Capt. Rogers fearing with his heavy freight to approach the Sandusky bar. A heavy storm of rain from the E.N.E. renders this part of our excursion extremely unpleasant. A cabin crowded with emigrants is less intolerable than to brave the storm on deck. To add to our miseries the vessel is forced upon the bar about two miles from the landing. Finding their endeavors to get her off fruitless, I embark with Mrs. Camp, Miss Robertson & Mr. Ainslie 1 in the small boat for Sandusky, where we arrive about 9 o'clock rejoicing to escape from the filth & stench of the vessel at the expense of drenched clothing. Sandusky is prettily situated upon a bay of that name. A group of islands at the mouth of this bay known as Cunningham's, Bull's, Put in Bay & others, forms as handsome a scene as we usually admire. At present there are at Sandusky two taverns, some half dozen groceries occupied in part by families, & three or four ware houses and three wharves. There is a great prejudice against the place as unhealthy. Fever & ague and bilious fevers prevail, commencing their ravages in August & few escape. Strangers are certain sufferers. A singular evi- dence of the unhealthiness of the place was most unhappily exposed to us at breakfast table by the inquiries of Miss Robertson, who had come here upon a visit to a married sister living near. An entire stranger she began by asking for the residence of brother in law. He was known to the landlord as were his first & second wives. The poor girl concluded there was some mistake as to the person. Upon explana- tion however it proved that her sister had died since she last heard from her, and the husband had married another woman. Miss Robertson by this affliction found herself in a strange land, 400 miles from her friends, unaccompanied by others than fellow travellers, having no claims upon the family where she sought a home, and left the table in tears. Not of the most acute feelings, however, she is restored, when the disappointment is over, and concludes to proceed to her sister's family, which by the kindness of Mr. Ainslie she is able to do the same afternoon. Among other mishaps of the day, we find waiting at Sandusky a dozen passengers collected from various quarters for the steam boat. They lose 1 Hew Ainslie, born in Ayrshire, Scotland April 5, 1 792, businessman in Indiana and Ohio and a poet of some distinction. 270 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY their passage in consequence of our coming up in a lighter & the boat proceeding, and add to the numbers of the disappointed. Such as were brought by their landing places, in the steam boat on account of the wind, depart for their respective residence in vessels from Sandusky. The unhealthiness of this place may be ascribed to several causes. Among those which strike the eye of the traveller are a great prairie extending from the lake to a considerable distance in the interior. The land as far back as the rapids of Sandusky is low and flat and wet. It is 30 miles to the rapids. Add to this an uncleared tract of land, and springs of water running from a loose limr stone formation filled with animal & vegetable petrifactions and afterwards thro' a rich loam which is the water they use, & perhaps we need no other cause for the sickness of Sandusky. The village is not more sickly than the neighbor- ing country. The contrary has been said. Sandusky is in the county of Huron and it is said that 9 out of 10 of its whole population were at- tacked last year with fevers and fever and ague. There is a custom house at Sandusky opposite the village on the neck of land forming the bay called the peninsula. The peninsula is avoided as unhealthy. Four miles above Sandusky is Venice, a village of about the same size, now entirely deserted. The residents have abandoned their houses on account of the sickliness of the place. At Sandusky the villagers seem to be an idle dram-drinking, bar-thronging crew. The whole population seem to spend their time in and about the taverns; and their dirty, swarthy, pallid, and poverty stricken appearances denote sufficient cause for disease. Some I am told make their living by fishing, and their season for fish having pass'd, are now idling away their time. Warm afternoon, showers. Sandusky is a settlement of two years' growth. Tuesday, June 13. Several schooners and sail boats leave here this morning carrying away travellers who had been disappointed by the steam boat and others. Amuse myself in the morning traversing the shores of Sandusky Bay. Its banks are principally lime stone of 3 or 4 ft. elevation. Petrifactions of shell fish abound. They are imbedded in a softer lime stone and of a lighter color, than is found on Lake Ontario or in the Lake below. Amorphous masses of red granite. Eruptive red granite and red granite with garnets are found. Some black flint. A compound rock of horn- blende, green stone & white spots of granite detached and inter- spersed I found on the shore in one instance. Specimens are kept of the several minerals of Sandusky. Preserve also some of the wild flowers of the woods. Extremely warm in the afternoon; heavy clouds and showers in the neighborhood, wind S.VV. BOOK SIX 271 From Sandusky are exported pork, butter, ashes, wheat & flour. In- spection on pork is not rigorous, & there is much of it very indifferent. Wednesday, June 14. Very warm, wind S.W. Showers in the eve- ning. Amuse myself mineralizing. Without this resource Sandusky would be more intolerable than the wilderness. "Nunquam minus salvus quam solus," I have often realized to the full. But here the diffi- culty is to escape from the filthy miserable wretches that throng the tavern. Give me the wilderness and our red brothers rather than Sandusky and its outcasts. Thursday, June 15. Pleasant day, wind S.W; evening N.E. Find a mineral among some ballast on the wharf at Sandusky which I take to be strontian. It is translucent & sometimes transparent but not so handsome as that found on an island off here, by our party last summer. It is said to have been brought down the bay. Sand stone pebbles of every color are found on the beach & almost every variety of granite in small fragments. Ramble over the Sandusky Prairie in the rear of the settlement. This prairie shows every where evidences of its having been washed by the waters of the lake. Its surface is strewed with water worn limestone. Many of them are filled with petrifactions of shells and some have holes worn thro' them by the friction of harder pebbles by water &c. Gather several varieties of wild flowers. A small species of rattlesnake called the missisauga which used to be very numerous on the Sandusky prairie is now met with about 1 5 miles back. Rattlesnakes abound on the islands but few are seen on the maine. The little black rattlesnake called the missisauga is most feared because least seen of its smaller size. Friday, June 16. Pleasant Tempe. wind S. W. Leave the tavern in the morning with my gun. Pigeons, black & grey squirrels & partridges are abundant; sometimes wild turkeys are met with here. Not meeting with game, take to the beach and return with my pockets full of min- erals instead of pigeons. Saturday, June 17. Clear and pleasant. Having read thro' such books as I had with me, and explored the neighboring country, grow heartily tired of Sandusky. Find some relief in the society of Mrs. Camp; all else is disgusting drain drinking, filth, idleness and poverty, that, were it not for drunkenness, would be extreme misery. There are a few exceptions to this among the persons keeping stores, but very few, out of the one hundred persons that inhabit the place. It is settled mostly by New Englanders. Sunday, June 18. Clear, very pleasant, wind N.E. Genl. Porter arrives at Sandusky on his return from Kentucky in search of his wife and her retinue. They having proceeded by way of Pictsburg & Wheeling to Erie, he misses them & proceeds to this place. 272 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Present him with a copy of my letter to the Secy, of State, dated May 17th, 1820, and the Secy.'s reply dated 1 9th, 1 containing my instruc- tions to repair to the Boundary Line and perform the duties of Agent &c. The Gen'l expresses his satisfaction upon the appointment and my presence and states that he will so advise the Sec'y of State. Monday, June 19. Clear and very warm. In the afternoon take passage in a small schooner called the Elizabeth of Ashtabula, for Maiden, Gen'l Porter having concluded to proceed to Black Rock. He gives me a letter to Fraser advising him of my appointment and instruc- ting himself & Mr. Bird to consult with me &c, as Agent of the U.S. 2 Shortly after embarking perceive a sailboat in chase of our schooner. By her superior sailing, she soon overtakes us, having on board the Gen'l & Clinton, as messenger from the camp, with letters to the Gen'l & myself from Fraser, stating that the British party had proceeded to the Sault St. Mary to conduct the survey downwards accompanied by Mr. Ferguson, one of our surveyors; and that our party were de- sirous of proceeding to Lake Huron as soon as the survey of the river Detroit was finished. These arrangements having been adopted to avoid an unhealthy country at an unfavorable season of the year. The object of Majr. Fraser's letter was to cause the necessary means to be exerted to procure a proper vessel for the upper lake navigation. Gen'l Porter concludes that a vessel now finishing at Black Rock will be the most suitable and it is agreed that the surveyors continue on their present route, until he shall return to us. in that, or some other vessel suitable for the further navigation of the Jakes. He to be advised by every- opportunity of our progress, and more particularly as to the probable time when the survey of the river may be completed. I am also to instruct Mr. De Russy to make a copy of the maps now per- fected, to be laid before the Department of State. I return from the General's boat to our more dull sailing craft, tak- ing leave of Sandusky Harbor about 3 o'clock p.m. Find it very diffi- cult to beat off Sandusky with the wind at N.E. owing to the narrow pass over the bar which is at the extreme N. E. point forming the ba\. At night get a land breeze and at sunrise are within 15 miles of De- troit River. The craft as called is without any accommodations. At 1 May 17, 1820, Delafield wrote to J. Q. Adams, Secretary of State, giving reasons why it was important that he be allowed to perform the duties of Agent, as that im- portant post had been vacated by Hawkins, the Agent (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2). The Secretary's reply of May 19 is missing but on May 19, Delafield acknowledged the authorization which had reached him (text: Mss. Ibid.). 2 Major Donald Fraser. of New York, Secretary to the Commission. Wm. A. Bird, of Troy, one of the assistant surveyors (see Journal, under Article VI, pp. 8-9). BOOK SIX 273 night, wrap myself in my cloak and take up my berth in a dirty little skiff on deck, which is preferable to the slush'd & filthy planks of the vessel. The night was warm & sleep tolerably well. Morning calm. Tuesday, June 20. Clear and extremely warm. At sunrise find ourselves about 15 miles from the mouth of Detroit River. Nearly calm. A hot sun, vessel making little headway; and the intolerable nastiness of the boy who acts as cook who is at the same time mate & man so disgusts me, that the Elizabeth of Ashtabula becomes far more tiresome & odious than the city of Sandusky. The filth of the vessel destroys all appetite, or rather ability to use such stores as I had put on board. I fast until I reach Maiden, about 9 o'clock a.m., having endured all that filth, calms, hot sun, and total absence of all accommodation can subject a traveller to. Stop in Maiden at Searl's tavern which is the best. The landlady however is said not to be friendly to the Yankees. Learn that Messrs. Barclay and Hale left this place last week for Buffalo, the former for his home, the latter to return to the party. Maiden is a village of 175, or perhaps 200 houses. Is laid out with some regularity and resembles the Canadian villages on the St. Law- rence. The Canadians build a better sort of log house of timber some- what hewn and the crevices filled with mortar, and occasionally the exterior & interior whitewash'd, having the appearance of some com- fort. Of such huts is the principal part of Maiden. There is a garrison at Maiden of 36 men, under the command of Lt. Col. Hawkins. There are also many Indian huts remaining in Maiden. The Hurons have a reservation of 7 miles square, of excellent land above Maiden. In the afternoon leave Maiden for Camp situate on the head of Turkey or Fighting Island. Ride up with Searl in his waggon. The land on this side of the river is flat but rich. Canadian peasants are settled on the banks of the river, cultivating sufficient land for subsistence in a poor way. Their dwellings are mostly neat and comfortable. Arrive opposite the camp and cross in a canoe before sun set. Find the party pleasantly encamped and am gratified by a hearty welcome from all hands. Wednesday, June 2 1 . Clear and very warm. The Tempe. in camp yesterday was 97°, wind N.E. Turkey Island or Fighting Island where we are now encamped was occupied by the Indians, when the British first extended their conquests in this direction, as a stronghold. Our encamping ground shows traces of their defences. It is related that when the British first pass'd this island in their vessels, the Indians in great numbers attempted to board them. 274 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY The discharge of musketry struck terror into them & they fled, much alarmed at the noise, smoke, fire & execution of their guns. A cele- brated old warrior Pontiac was upon this island with his warriors, when he plan'd the scheme of retaking from the British their posts at Mackinaw, Detroit, Maiden & Niagara by various stratagems, and all upon the same day. He succeeded at all the posts except Detroit where he led his warriors in person. The British officers were apprized of the intended stratagem at Detroit by a squaw who was attached to one of them. On a given day when a talk was proposed in the garrison, the Indians were to have their muskets cut off & concealed under their blankets, & upon signal to massacre the garrison. The talk took place & old Pontiac found the troops drawn up in battle array. He went on with his speech, however & took occasion by some signal to make known to his warriors that they were betrayed, & no attempt to slaugh- ter was made. At Mackinaw some days previous to his intended attack he sent a party of his young warriors and instructed them to enter into their game at ball by the British garrison, well knowing that the energy & activity that his young warriors would display in this game would draw off the attention of the British officers. At the same time he caused a large party to lay in ambush in the rear of the garrison in the woods. For some days this game was kept up to the great amusement of the garrison. Occasionally an Indian would as if by accident strike the ball into the fort & permission was given for one man to enter after it in the heat of the game. This trick was carried on until it became familiar and the party in larger numbers was admitted into the fort. Having gained this advantage in a favorable moment, a signal was given to the Indians in ambush. The fort was instantly throng'd & the whole garrison fell a sacrifice to the stratagem of Pontiac. By other artifices several forts were taken upon the same day. I have heard these traditions related in different ways, consequently must allow for error, but Pontiac was a great Indian warrior. Meet with an intelligent Canadian who says that the fragments of earthenware that we find buried in different parts of the country are to his knowledge of Indian manufacture; that these earthen vessels are buried with the dead; that they are filled with corn, the Indians be- lieving that the dead subsist upon it. That he knows that the Hurons to this day do manufacture this ware, but not so commonly as hereto- fore; and that I can find these earthen vessels by going to the Indian settlement below the camp on the Canada side. He promises the stone hatchets formerly used by the Indians, which he says are found here in numbers. In the afternoon a heavy squall blows over the wall tents, & proves very grateful after an intense hot sun. BOOK SIX 275 Thursday, June 22. Clear and pleasant. Tempe. moderate. Pre- pare a letter to Genl. Porter informing him that the party will be ready to move on from Detroit River on or about the 9th day of July next, and will want a larger vessel to carry them to the Sault St. Mary. Majr. Fraser & self go to Detroit to lay in some stores and deliver our packet of letters on board the steam boat. Cross from camp to the Canada shore where a Frenchman supplies us with the ruin of a calash, an old mare of all colors & shapes, harness of buck leather & ropes, and altogether the most ludicrous outfit imag- inable. To make the farce complete the old man himself mounted up behind the calash, to bring home his vehicle. In weight he exceeded both of us together, and to prevent his weight from upsetting the ma- chine backward he was obliged to throw his body forward, leaning over our heads! We cross'd the ferry from Sandwich to Detroit. Re- turned in the evening in a fine sailboat, bought at Detroit for the use of the party. Friday, June 23. Clear & pleasant. Remain in camp. The survey is conducted this day to the neighborhood of Detroit. Saturday, June 24. Clear and pleasant in the morning. In the afternoon commences a storm which continues with violence during the night. Write to Genl. Porter informing him that the survey of the Detroit River will be terminated before the gth of July. Write to the Secy, of State informing him of arrival on the Line, & of the progress of the survey 1 &c. The steam boat passes down. We board her and deliver our letters &c. Sunday, June 25. Clear and warm. Commence this day with regu- lar thermometrical observations for which see tables. In the afternoon we all cross to the Canada shore for a ramble and stroll among the peasants. One of them presents me with two Indian stone axes such as were formerly used by the natives. They have no hole for a handle, and it is said the handle was tied on them. The stone of which they are made is not found here at this day. The Canadians say it is found under water in a softer state when they work it. Of this there is no evidence however. The head of Fighting or Turkey Island where our camp now is has been fortified by the Indians. The head is a rise of ground of about 20 ft. A line or manner of breastwork of a circular form has been thrown up, and holes of 8 or 10 ft. diameter every where dug within 1 Delafield to J. Q. Adams, June 24, 1820 (text: Mss. in National Archives, Treaty of Ghent, Arts. VI and VII, Envelope I, Folder 2). The letter to General Porter, of the same date, is missing. 276 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY this work, seeming as if intended for the skulking places of the Indians. From them they could shoot their arrows with impunity. The ground is fill'd with human bones of very old burial. From the earthen ware everywhere found buried with them, they are undoubtedly Indians. They are too much decayed to discover that fact from the skulls. The head of this island has been cut off by the ice and constant current that breaks upon it. This abrasion has exposed many skeletons and much earthenware. Monday, June 26. Clear and very pleasant. The surveyors set ofF to measure a base line about four miles from camp. Majr. Fraser and myself spend the day in camp. In the morning search the beach for the purpose of examining & collecting the vast variety of pebbles to be found here. Agates of every color, granites, porphyry and quartz in many varieties, with some petrifactions in limestone, are found. They prove however of but little interest, and have been deposited on the head of the island by the current. Tuesday, June 27. Strike the tents and load the boats for removal of camp upwards. Myself, Fraser and one boatman set off with a fair wind in the sailboat. Mr. DeRussy takes charge of the baggage boat &c. Proceed with the sailboat to near Wind Mill Point, which is the end of the Detroit River, when a heavy squall obliges us to bear away for a port on the Canada shore. After much difficulty & labor moor the boat in safety, in charge of Mr. Best, who with two men remain by her during the night. I find miserable lodgings in a house called a tavern about one mile up the shore. A bed made on the floor offered some hope of rest, but one Canadian after another rolled himself in his blanket & laid himself alongside of me, until eight had laid themselves upon the same floor in a room about 12 ft. square. Extreme poverty, filth, & ignorance have reduced these poor creatures to the lowest deg- radation of humanity. Disease too has made its ravages. Before landing we considered ourselves abreast of an Indian village. The yellow com- plexion and blanket dress and small log hut made us rather look for a worse reception than we met. They proved Canadians, and almost every house I entered had one or more persons lying on the floor or on the beds suffering from fever & ague. This they did not consider unhealthy, but they anticipated the usual diseases in July, August & September, to wit, bilious and intermittent fevers of a high type. Wednesday, June 28. At day break get under way from the Can- ada shore, and attempt to beat up to Wind Mill Point. Head winds and strong counter current render it impracticable. Run down the American shore to a landing place & come to, to await the arrival of Mr. DeRussy in the baggage boat. He soon heaves in sight. He had run his boat on the beach when the storm commenced and pitched his BOOK SIX 277 tent, & left his position during the preceding night. Breakfast at Mr. Verendery's and proceed down the shore to encamp, Pitch our tents on the first high or dry land we come to, which is a lot of Mr. Cooke's three miles above Detroit. Thursday, June 29. Clear & very pleasant. Thermo, at noon, 91 . Wind S.E. Remain in camp. The whole party sleep in camp this" night. Mr. Bird sets a station on Lake St. Clair. On the beach find a variety of rolled primitive stones, which are singularly deposited at this end of Lake St. Clair only — Similar petrifactions of shells & roots to those found below are also here. Friday, June 30. Clear & very pleasant. Wind S.E. Remain in camp. Saturday, July 1. Clear and pleasant. Remain in camp. Sunday, July 2. Clear and very warm. Dine in Detroit with Doct r * Delavan, 1 the gentlemen from camp, & Gen'l McComb 2 form the party. Monday, July 3. Dine in Detroit with Genl. McComb. The gentle- men from camp, of the garrison, and Mrs. Cass & Biddle form the party. Return at night to the camp. Tuesday, July 4. At 10 o'clock a.m. leave Detroit in the steam boat Walk in the Water on a jaunt of pleasure with a large party of ladies & gentlemen, to celebrate the day in mirth and festivity. About one hundred and fifty persons of both sexes comprise the party. Proceed into Lake St. Clair, but on account of threatening showers put about and run down the Detroit River, toward Maiden. Sit down to an ex- cellent dinner at four o'clock. The military band enables the party to join in the dance. Cotillions are danced with the same ease and grace as in our own part of the country and for politeness and good conduct in every particular, this party could not be surpassed in the most polished parts of the States. Salutes were fired from the boat, and the toasts reechoed from the mouth of the cannon. The day was passed in great mirth, and with entire satisfaction to every person. Return to Detroit shortly after sunset. Pass the evening at Genl. McComb's, & he obliges us with the use of his waggon to return to camp at night. Messrs. Bird, De Russy & self return in the waggon to camp. 1 Dr. Benjamin Delavan was the Post Surgeon at Detroit, 1820. 2 General Alexander Macomb, born April 3, 1782. Son of the Alexander Macomb of New York who held the great "Macomb's Purchase" 3,670,715 acres in northern New York including the Thousand Islands. General Macomb had by 181 2 risen to the rank of Lieutenant Colonel and was the Adjutant General of the U. S. Army. Promoted to Brigadier General in 18 14. He distinguished himself in 18 14 at the Battle of Plattsburg. Succeeded General Jacob Brown as Major General in 1828. After his death, June 25, 1841, a monument was erected to his memory on which he was called "Commander-in-Chief United States Army." 278 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Wednesday, July 5. Rains throughout the day. Wind N.E. & E. Davis, one of the men, complains of being very ill. Send for Dr. Delavan who prescribes for him. His disease pleurisy. Bleeding and a large dose of salts soon restore him. In the evening go to Detroit to Mrs. Biddle's. She gives us a pleasant little party, a dance on the carpet. The ladies of the garrison and Mrs. Govr. Cass are there. 1 Remain at night in the garrison, accepting the friendly proffer of beds &c. from Doctr. Delavan. Accept an invitation from Mrs. Cass to pass Friday evening at her house. Also for the gentlemen of the camp. Thursday, July 6. Remain in camp. In the afternoon Gen'l & Mrs. McComb & Majr. Stockton and Mrs. Biddle 2 visit us in camp. Breakfasted this morning with Majr. Stockton and returned to the camp shortly after breakfast. Friday July 7. Remain in and about the camp during the day. Gather several of the wild flowers of Michigan, and place them in my herbarium. Spend the evening with Governor and Mrs. Cass. She invites a large party to meet us. Dance on the carpet & cards pass off the evening very pleasantly. Return to the camp same night about 1 o'clock. Saturday, July 8. Go to Detroit in the morning with Fraser and Bird. Return visits to Genl. McComb, Mrs. Govr. Cass, Col. Larned, Mrs. Biddle, Brooks & Mellen, & the gentlemen of the garrison. Return to the camp to dinner. Sunday, July 9. Remain in the camp. In the afternoon Gen'l McComb, Majrs. Stockton & Chunn take wine with us & remain 'til after supper. The whole party at home. Monday, July 10. In the morning accompany Mr. DeRussy to Hog Island, he to delineate, I to explore the shores for minerals. Find petrifactions, madrepores, shells, a silicious pudding stone, and some primitive amorphous rocks of granite and slate, all however out of place. In the afternoon Col. Larned 3 & Majr. Stockton, Mrs. Biddle, & Mr. & Mrs. Keyser, Mr. & Mrs. Jones & Misses Gleason & Spenser visit us in camp. Tuesday, July 11. Some petty thefts having been committed in camp we muster all the men, and after proper explanations search 1 Lewis Cass, Governor of the Michigan Territory. In 1 820 Cass traveled 5000 miles, chiefly by canoe, to visit the Indian tribes under his jurisdiction. 2 Mrs. John Biddle. Her husband born in Philadelphia March 9, 1789. In 1821 U. S. Indian Agent at Green Bay Wisconsin. Resigned and settled in Detroit, Michigan. 'Benjamin Franklin Larned, born in Pittsfield, Mass. Sept. 6, 1794 and served as an officer in the Army until the Civil War. BOOK SIX 279 their persons and tents. Find nothing. The men all assented to the search and expressed an anxiety to detect the rogue. Mr. McStorky and Mr. Elliot spend the evening in camp. Wednesday, July 12. Dine in Detroit with Majr. Stockton, most of the gentlemen of the garrison dine with him. Spend the evening at Mrs. Jones', who invites the ladies of Detroit to meet us. Sleep in the garrison at Dr. Delavan's quarters. The steam boat arrives this afternoon, with a few passengers &c. Invite the officers of the garrison to dine with us in camp on Friday. Thursday, July 13. Remain in Detroit til noon making prepara- tions for the dinner party tomorrow. At noon return to camp. Learn from Capt. Rodgers of the steam boat that the Red Jacket had sailed from Black Rock and might be looked for daily, that vessel having been employed for the surveys in Lake Huron. Friday, July 14. Rains throughout the most of the day. Genl. McComb, Maj'rs Stockton, Baker, Chunn, Caps. Farley, Cass, Messrs. Mellen, Brodhies, Davis, Delavan, Majr. Stanton, Col. Lamed, and the British officers from Amherstburg, viz: Col. Hawkins, Capt. Port- lock, Doctr. Tenant and Mrs. Black dine with us in camp. In the evening the officers of the garrison at Detroit give us a dance. We pass the evening very pleasantly and retire between 1 & 2 o'clock. I take up my quarters with Doctor Delavan. The British officers find beds at the General's, Major Stockton's & the Doctor's. Saturday, July 15. The storm continues and detains me in Detroit. Our friends from Amherstburg are under the necessity of returning, and about 1 o'clock we ride to the ferry house two miles below Detroit, where we are overtaken by a very heavy storm. I remain with them until 3 o'clock when I'm obliged to leave them to reach the steam boat before she sails. Drive to the steam boat and request Capt. Rodgers to take the British officers on board, who agrees to come for them, and sends them an invitation to take passage home. Dine with Doct'r Delavan and in the afternoon return to the camp. Sunday, July 16. Clear and pleasant. Remain in camp throughout the day. In the afternoon the Indians bring us a mosquenonge of 30 cwt., with other fish. Send the mosquenonge as a present to Genl. McComb. Monday, July 17. Clear and pleasant. Dine with Genl. McComb, who entertains a party of officers of the 3d Inf'y and others. Mr. Bird & myself dine with them. On arriving at Detroit find that our schooner, the Red Jacket, had just arrived. Go on board and find her a conven- iently arranged and a commodious vessel — Clinton arrives in the Red Jacket. Pass a pleasant afternoon at Genl. McComb's and return to 280 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY camp in the evening. Genl. McComb presents me with a handsome specimen of strontian and a pair of bear's feet dried. Capt. Whiting presents me with a splendid chrystal of lead found in a mine work'd by the Fox & Sac's Indians 60 miles below Prairie du Chien, ore from same mine and some lesser chrystals on the matrix, also with some beautiful carnelians, agates & jaspers from the Mississippi near Prairie du Chien. Detroit is filled with officers who have come from Green Bay & other places, to attend a ct. martial to be held for the trial of Col. Smith of the 3d Infy. Tuesday, July 18. Remain in camp until afternoon. About 2 o'clock the Red Jacket comes to off the camp. Go on board and find the steerage of the vessel stored with provisions on account of the master, which he was desirous to take to Mackinaw. Consider the same as inconvenient on board, and request them landed, which the master immediately makes arrangements to do. Messrs. Stevenson, De Russy and myself go to Detroit in the afternoon to dine with Majr. Biddle, who entertains a large party of officers, mostly of the 3d Infy, Col. Smith & Lawrence, Maj'rs Baker, Chunn, Stockton, &c. &c. In the evening return to camp. During our absence some preparation had been made to get camp equipage on board the Red Jacket. Wednesday, July 19. All hands employed in getting camp equipage on board the Red Jacket. By 1 1 o'clock a.m. everything is on board, and a head-wind only detains us. All the gentlemen but myself go to Detroit to make purchases and take leave. I remain on board the vessel, and having had all matters comfortably arranged, spend the afternoon writing letters for probably the last time this season, as our voyage on- ward will carry me beyond the means of communication of this nature. Thursday, July 20. Continue wind bound on board the Red Jacket, lying off our encamping ground in readiness to proceed. In the after- noon Mr. Bird and myself go to Detroit to make our take leave visits, and a few purchases. Return to the vessel by sun set on the appearance of a change wind, but it dies away and the rain and calm succeed — write to Genl. Porter 1 and give my letters to Mr. Cooke, our camp neighbor, with a request that he would have them delivered to Capt. Rodgers of the steam boat Walk in the Water. Gen'l McComb brings with him from Grosse Isle some very handsome specimens of chrystals of strontian and presents me with a fine handsome cabinet specimen, one of its chrystals being more than one inch in width, and the whole group large and transparent. 1 This letter is missing from the files of General Porter and also of Major Delafield, in the National Archives. BOOK SIX 281 Take leave of all friends in Detroit, who are all entitled to gratitude and reciprocation of civilities from the kindness and hospitality with which we have been received and treated. Gen'l McComb, Majr. & Mrs. Biddle, Mrs. Govr. Cass, Majr. Stockton, Doctor Delavan, and all the gentlemen of the garrison are particularly to be remembered. Col. and Mrs. Larned & Mr. & Mrs. Jones of the citizens have added to the pleasures of our pastime in Detroit. Friday, July 21. Clear and pleasant. Wind S.W. About sunrise get under way in the Red Jacket from Detroit River. Soon enter Lake St. Clair. This lake, from its inlet to its outlet, which may be called its length, is about 20 miles. Its breadth is greater, say 25 miles. It is a very shallow lake and its greatest depth does not exceed 4 fathoms. On mak- ing the St. Clair River you cross extensive flats, in many places carrying less than two fathoms. The channel is very circuitous, and is marked out by stakes on either side. When the sun shines it is evident to the eye from the contrast between the deep and shallow waters. St. Clair River has several outlets into the lake. They are formed by a number of flat islands off its mouth. The ship channel or best one is West of all the islands and next to the American shore, according to the present knowledge and navigation. The whole country around as far as the eye reaches is flat and low. The shores of Lake St. Clair are inhabited, but the clearings do not extend backward. The land at the mouth of the river is also flat, and indicates fever and ague. Two of our men during the day are taken with fever & ague. Enter the river, and are obliged to come to anchor about 4 miles from the lake on account of a head wind and strong current. Attempt to tow the vessel against the current in vain, first with two boats & eight oars, then with a line. Soundings in 8 fathoms where we anchor. Party on board the Red Jacket, including all hands, 2 1 . Saturday, July 22. Remain becalmed and windbound in the St. Clair River where we came to yesterday. Make an excursion up the E. and down the W. side of the river for two or three miles to explore the country. It is entirely an alluvial deposit and not a stone to be found on the shores. Generally sand, wood, oak, poplar and elm. Settlers, French Canadians. On the W. shore near our vessel are a few comfortable houses and decent farms for Canadians. For the flowers of this place see herbarium. Minerals none. There are five or six outlets of the river into Lake St. Clair. The most eastern one or channel on the British side, called Chenail Ecarte, empties into Lake St. Clair near the mouth of the Thames. The West channel is the one used. River Huron empties into Lake St. Clair on the West side about eight miles from the mouth of St. Clair River. River Thames on the Canada side. 282 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Sunday, July 23. Lie at anchor becalm'd til 10 o'clock, when a wind from the S.W. enables us to make a little headway. Gain about one mile in the course of the morning, when by the aid of a tow line we get abreast of Chien Point where the river changes its course that gives a free wind, that carries about 10 miles up the river. The West shore of the river is settled and cultivated, the East shore not so. The soil rich, land level and rather low. Wheat grows well and the farms look in pretty good condition, tho' small, and the farm houses comfort- able. The inhabitants have a more healthy appearance than below on Lake St. Clair or Detroit River. The sail along the shore is very pleas- ing from the circumstance of its clean and fertile banks. The water of this river is very deep. We anchor within 20 yards of the shore in five fathoms water. It is colder than the waters of the lower rivers or lakes, and we have no longer any necessity for ice. Party on board the Red Jacket: Majr. Delafield as Agent, " Fraser " Secy. Mr. Bird, Prin: Sur. Mr. Stevenson, Sur. Mr. Best, Sur. Mr. DeRussy, Draftsman Mr. Clinton, Steward Mr. Gillett, Master, and thirteen boatmen. Monday, July 24. Get under way about sunrise with a fair wind and reach Fort Gratiot at 1 o'clock. St. Clair River improves very much in its beauties as you approach Lake Huron. Its banks are higher, and the water deeper and more rapid. The population is not so great at the upper part of the river, but such clearings as you see denote a rich soil and easy cultivation. Corn & wheat look well. Apple orchards are seen, but little other fruit. The farmers have plenty of poultry, cows, sheep & hogs, & gardens of the ordinary vegetables, all of which are offered us on our sail up the river in the way of trade. St. Clair River has many turns and resembles in many places the Niagara straits. There are, I believe, but two islands in this river above Point Chien. It is called 30 miles in length. At Fort Gratiot there is a rapid requiring a fresh breeze to stem. Fort Gratiot is at the head of the river and commands the entrance to and fro. The width of the river opposite the fort is 8 or 900 ft., and then a low sand beach for some extent reaches the upland on the Canada shore. In this neighborhood we again find the pine and white birch, woods not found between Lake Ontario and this place. The St. Clair River varies in width from y A to 1 mile and is narrower at its mouth than at most places. We pass the rapids with a fresh breeze BOOK SIX 283 at 1 o'clock and are most pleasantly wafted to sea on Lake Huron forthwith. This lake expands handsomely after leaving St. Clair. The land is seen about its mouth on either side til lost in the vast circle that surrounds you. We lay our course along the American shore, mostly due North til near Saguina Bay, when the course is changed to N.W. As far as Saguina Bay the land is low and flat. In the rear it is said there is an elevation, but none is apparent from the lake. We run the lake at a distance of 10 & 12 miles from the shore. On the Canada shore after leaving St. Clair River the country appeared to be for some distance a pine barren. The Canada shore of St. Clair River is not so well settled as the American, but appears to correspond in soil and perhaps has an advantage in elevation. In the afternoon the wind dies away, and a trifling breeze comes off ahead. In the afternoon we again get it fair but light and make about twenty miles on our course. Tuesday, July 25. Clear and pleasant. Wind fair for Mackinaw. Continue on our voyage, running parallel the American shore of Lake Huron. The schooner Genl. Jackson and schooner Huron sailed in company from Detroit River. This afternoon the former is nearly out of sight ahead, the latter a little astern. Pass the morning in part making ready with hook & line for the famed salmon-trout & white fish of Lake Huron. Wind continues fair but very light. At sun set we are abreast of Point Barques which is the Southern point of Sagana Bay. Sagana Bay is said to be one hundred miles deep. 1 Wednesday, July 26. Clear and pleasant. At sunrise find ourselves off Sagana Bay having made but little progress in the night, say 15 miles. The wind continues fair, tho' light. We set all the sail we can, making use of tent flies for a top sail, and the small boat sails are set in different parts of the vessel. At 2 p.m. are abreast of Thunder Bay. Unfortunately for history, as some tourists have recorded the wonders of this bay, we hear no thunder. It has been said that there was per- petual thunder here. The land seen in the bay, or rather a promontory dividing Saguina from Thunder Bay, is rather low, but more elevated than the country the South side of the bay. Thunder Bay islands lie on the North point of the bay, and are two of moderate size; and some two or three lesser ones bearing a few trees are seen about them. At night the wind heads us & we lay offshore. Thursday, July 27. Wind ahead. Off Thunder Bay Islands. About 6 o'clock a.m. in coming about, one of the lee boards is carried away 1 Sagana, Saguina, now Saginaw. The bay is about sixty miles deep from its mouth westwardly to its extremity. 284 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY by the sea, wind blowing fresh. The schooner is hove to, lee board taken in and we stand for the shore. Finding it impracticable to beat to windward conclude to make a harbor, and run under the lee of Middle Island, which is 8 or 10 miles above the Thunder Bay Islands. There is a good anchorage in 4 or 5 fathoms water on the South side of Middle Island ^ of a mile from the shore. In coming on we see the bottom in 6 and 7 fathoms water. The water in this neighborhood is the brightest I ever witnessed. At a depth of 15 ft. you can see as dis- tinctly as in the air, even the smallest objects are apparent. In the deep water a white object sinking may be seen for 8 or 9 fathoms. We land on Middle Island and the main shore. Middle Island is low, and based on flat limestone. This stone is broken by the water and immense ridges are thrown up on the shores, to a greater height than the interior of the island. Some granite & slate are found but the country is still decidedly secondary. Petrifac- tions of ammonites and several shells abound. The main shore is mostly of sand. The banks low, timber pine and woods almost impenetrable. There is evidence of iron from the colored water of the springs that ooze thro' the sand staining all around them. Iron pyrites is found imbedded in the slate and other rocks. Friday, July 28. Wind ahead, say N.W. Temp e - at 6 a.m., 65 . On board the Red Jacket in the lee of Middle Island. Go ashore on Middle Island. I walk around the island mineralizing with little suc- cess, beyond the result of yesterday's excursion. The other gentlemen go in pursuit of pigeons 1 and return with three dozen. On this island are pigeons and rabbits, many wild raspberries, & a few gooseberries. Saturday, July 29. Remain at anchor in the Red Jacket under the lee of Middle Island. Wind N.N.W. fresh, clear and pleasant. Temp. 67 . After breakfast leave the vessel on an exploring expedition to the neighborhood of the islands of Thunder Bay. Land on an island in a small bay N.W. of the Thunder Bay Islands, which is not laid down in any of the maps. There are a few others in the bays along the main shore not laid down. These bays all afford safe harbour when made, but are not easy of approach on account of the bars that project from the points of land. Generally the bars of stone and sand extend in an easterly direction from the points, and appear to be formed by the prevailing North West winds of Lake Huron. The channels are as generally South of these points and bars. In case of necessity only, however, would it be advisable to make these harbors. In the lee of such islands as lie off the shore may be found good anchorage. The ex- treme brightness of the waters continued to surprise us. Fish are seen 1 Passenger pigeons, at this time most numerous. BOOK SIX 285 at a great depth, as well as the stone bottom. Eight fathoms appears as four and so on. The deception only to be proved by the lead line. The shores of the island where we land were covered with round water- worn stones, mostly primitive, and all out of place. The base of the island, as of the whole country around stratified limestone. Find nothing new. The beautiful granitic silicious pudding stones of white, red and other colored pebbles (jaspers), are found here in large masses. Petrifactions of shells, or trees and not much else worthy of notice. Returning, ex- plore the main shore. The beach is generally covered with round stones of granite, gneiss, slate & limestone. Base, limestone, that occasionally appears. The lime stone is stratified, and shelves into the lake at an angle of about 15 . Where the beach is of sand, the water of its springs is very strongly impregnated with iron, and iron pyrites is found in most of the stones. The main shore is indented from Thunder Bay to Middle Island with lesser bays uniform in shape and depth, being about one mile deep, and about the same width at their mouths. Return to the vessel at 6 o'clock p.m. At 9 p.m. we get under way from Middle Island, with a wind from W.N.W. (the gale having subsided) with the hope of beating to wind- ward on our course. Stretch out in the lake. Find a heavy head sea running, and are not able to make any headway. Our schooner being very flat and with little keel, was fitted with very large lee boards after the fashion of the New York Pettyaugres, 1 and the crew not being used to them, permitted the windward one to remain in the water after the vessel had gone about, by which means it was broken from the side of the vessel; and our capacity to beat done away. Sunday, July 30. Find ourselves in the morning to leeward of the island we left last night, about twelve miles, owing to a calm and head sea. Find soundings in 71 fathoms 10 miles E.N.E. of Presque Isle. At eleven o'clock the wind changes to S.E. and we proceed on our course direct for Mackinaw. One of the Manitou Islands in sight N.N.W. course from mast head. Lake Erie is said in no place to have greater soundings than 30 fathoms. At 12 o'clock by Mr. Bird's observation we are in lat. 45°i8 / and about 5 miles north of Middle Island that we left last night. At night, wind continues fair and we pursue our course. There are no islands on the American shore above Presque Isle til you come to Bois Blanc, near Mackinac. 1 Pettyaugres — Pettiauger — Periagua: a large flat-bottomed boat without keel but with lee board, propelled by oars or by sails on two masts which could be struck. Formerly used along the whole American coast and even in the Mississippi River. 286 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Monday, July 31. At sun rise are about 9 miles from Mackina and a head wind checks our progress. It becomes nearly calm. Find sound- ings in 34 fathoms eieht miles E. by N. from Mackina Island. Temperature of Lake Huron at this place, 65 and of the atmosphere at same time 9 o'clock a.m., 68°. Sink two plates tied together bottoms outward to try the trans- parency of the water. The plates were visible at the depth of eight fathoms. The lake, however, was somewhat disturbed, owing to pre- vious high winds, and not as bright as in calmer weather and farther from land. Bois Blanc appears to be of the same description of soil, timber and elevation with the main shore, that we left abreast of Middle Island. Mackina Island and the main shore north of Mackina are the only high land apparent as yet. The shores of this lake on the American side differ in truth from all accounts I have had. They are generally low, flat and barren, & covered with pine, hemlock and white poplar. Water worn pebbles, stone, sand, and occasionally the limestone base that appears, form the shore for its entire distance to St. Clair River. It is said there is an elevated plain in Michigan territory, but no high land is seen from Lake Huron. Toward evening, finding that the Red Jacket made but little prog- ress beating up to Mackinaw, Fraser, Bird, De Russy and myself set out in The Lady of the Lakes (our barge) for the town. We land about sunset, under the most pleasing circumstances as it regarded the beauty and the picturesque appearance of the place. The village lies in a little bay on the West side of the island on a flat of land and contains two streets about ^ of a mile in length. Over is a height of about 150 ft. upon which is Fort Mackina. To the right and left of the town under the hill are the Indian camps, extending to and upon the points of land forming the bay. The island is three miles long and two broad. Its center is very elevated, and on the crown of the island is Fort Holmes, one hundred ft. higher than Fort Mackina, a very strong redoubt when in repair, with a block house in its centre. From this spot you have an extensive view of the several islands and the main shores around you, as also of Lakes Huron & Michigan. It is grand and picturesque as well as commanding. The natural curiosities of this island are the sugar loaf rock and arched bridge. The sugar loaf rock is a pyramid or cone of limestone standing alone on the high ground of the island. It is perhaps 50 ft. high. The arched bridge is on the precipice by the shore y^ mile from the town. It was formed by the washing away of the lime- stone precipice which here is perpendicular at its base. The incumbent stone has gradually fallen down til the present arch was form'd, and the rock being narrow a breach was made thro' to the South in the BOOK SIX 287 rear, which has allowed the rains to make a fair breach thro' & keep clear the pass under this natural bridge. The island generally is barren. The flats under the hill are productive of good rye and potatoes, but the high land is unproductive, stony and rough. Call upon the commanding officer, Capt. Pierce. This officer has been here since 181 5. Married a half breed has 3 interesting children & is as happy at Mackina as he ever was before. Mr. Crooks and Mr. Clapp of the South West Comp'y insist upon our taking blankets with them, instead of returning to our vessel, which we consent to. August 1, Tuesday. Find the Red Jacket at anchor in the harbor when we rise. Breakfast with Mr. Crooks at his long table with about thirty fur traders, hardy respectable looking men, mostly Canadians. These traders are in the employ of the South West, and come in every Spring with their pelteries and return with their goods from this post. Those from the most distant posts are dispatch'd first. Batteaux are used by these voyageurs until they reach the rivers that empty into Lake Superior. There they take their bark canoes; and until you come to these waters it is better to travel in the Canadian batteaux than the bark. Of the S. W. concern there are now here Mr. Crooks, Mr. Abbot, 1 Mr. Stewart 2 and Mr. Clapp. 3 Mr. Crooks takes me over his several ware houses of Indian goods, &c, &c. The whole establishment is one of much system & detail, and requires a long story to recount & a long apprenticeship to understand. These gentlemen speak of the N.W. Comp'y as a very perfectly organized & well regulated establishment, evincing great study to mature, wisdom to design & perseverance to conduct. Mackina owes all its consequence to the fur trade. In the Spring it is a bustling little place and more than a thousand people collect here. They disappear again & in Winter it is nearly deserted. It bears a very strong resemblance to views I have seen of St. Helena. Visit the forts, the sugar loaf rock & the arched bridge. 1 Samuel Abbott was a native of Detroit. Collector of Customs at Michilimackinac in 181 2. Later employed by John Jacob Astor's American Fur Company and became one of its business representatives successively at Prairie du Chien, St. Louis, Detroit and Michilimackinac. * Robert Stuart, born February 19, 1 785, died October 28, 1848. One of the founders of Astoria in Oregon. The story of his journey east is in Philip Ashton Rollins' The Dis- covery of the Oregon Trail, Robert Stuart Narratives and in Washington living's As- toria. From 1 81 9 for fifteen years was manager at Mackinac for the American Fur Com- pany. American Commissioner for all the Indian tribes of the Northwest. In 1834 re- moved to Detroit. Was known as "the friend of the Indian." 8 Benjamin Clapp. On October 1 1, 181 1 became a clerk in J. J. Astor's Pacific Fur Company. Sailed six days later on ship Beaver and arrived at Astoria, Columbia River, May 10, 181 2 remaining till August 25, 181 3. Midshipman under Com- modore Perry. Captured by British. After return to New York went into fur trade for himself and also for Astor. 288 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY The gentlemen of the garrison go on board the vessel with me. I return with them and dine with Mr. Crooks and party at his post. In the afternoon, go on board vessel with Mr. Crooks where I remain. I here for the first time feasted on the white fish and salmon trout. They are taken at Mackina and at the Sault St. Mary in greater per- fection than elsewhere. The white fish is more like the shad of salt waters than any fish I know, judging by the palate. It is very fat and cooks itself in its own fat. The white fish weighs from two to four pounds. It has a small head, sucker mouth & form of the salmon. Sometimes as heavy as 12 lbs. The salmon trout is a fine fish, rich, firm and tender — they weigh from 12 to 80 weight. The S. W. establishment keep a fisherman constantly out, and he supplies their table daily with white fish and trout. They are taken in gill nets off the points of Mackina Bay. Write to Genl. Porter and send letter on board the Gen'l Jackson that sails from Mackina for Detroit tomorrow morning. Also to Mrs. D. 1 Wednesday, August 2, 1820. The Red Jacket got under way last night about 2 o'clock for St. Mary and at breakfast time we had made but 10 or 12 miles. Wind light from the N. At noon the wind comes from the S.W. & W. and we run to Drummond's Island by 4 o'clock p.m. The little settlement on this island is on the E. side of it, and consists almost entirely of the soldiers' barracks and officers' quarters, and two or three other dwellings. The buildings are all small and of wood. Majr. Winnet commands the post. The settlement is in a bay which is covered from the lake by a cluster of three or four little islands. The best channel is the one North of the most Northern island. We entered to the South of all the islands, in sufficient water, but it is nar- row. The country around is extremely rocky and barren. There is no show of fortification or of any expense incurred in the establishment of this post. Some shot piled on the shore, ordinary barracks, and a few red coats are the only indications of a military post. Drummond's Island lies at the mouth of St. Mary's River across from Detour Point which is the point of St. Mary's River on the American side at its mouth. It is the first island made as you come coastwise from Mackina, excepting the little islands that lie off the bay where the settlement is. No map that I have seen has any truth as it respects the position of Drummond's or the other islands about St. Mary's. We entered this bay without a pilot, but are told that we cannot proceed up the river without one. Are prevented obtaining a pilot this afternoon, and are under the necessity of lying at anchor for the night in the harbor. 1 No doubt his mother, Mrs. John Delafield. These letters do not appear with Major Delafield's Mss. in the National Archives. BOOK SIX 289 Thursday, August 3. Get under way from Drummond's Island in search of the British party said to be in camp on Isle St. Joseph. At 9 o'clock discover their camp on Isle St. Joseph and Schooner Con- fiance at anchor abreast of it. Mr. Grant, commanding officer of the Confiance, sends us a pilot from his vessel to conduct us to the best anchorage. Come to opposite their camp. Messrs. Bird & Fraser go on shore. Messrs. Grant and Doct'r Bigsby 1 come on board with them. Mr. Thompson, Princl. Survy'r, is below at work, & Mr. Ferguson in the neighborhood. The river above, as far as Neebish Rapids, which is considered the proper termination of River St. Mary, a proper com- mencement of Lake Huron, have been already surveyed by Mr. Thompson and party. Dine in camp with Doctr. Bigsby & Mr. Grant. Mr. Bird goes in search of Mr. Thompson. In the evening return to the Red Jacket and take Mr. Grant with me, who spends the evening. Mr. Ferguson comes on board in the evening & Mr. Gibbs, their draughts- man. Isle St. Joseph was formerly occupied by the British as a military post. It was destroyed during the war by a party under command of Majr. Holmes, who was detached from the troops lying off Mackina for this purpose. The fleet off Mackina waited for the return of Holmes before they attacked that post. The delay gave the enemy time to prepare and the Indians to gather confidence, so that when they did land to attack Fort Mackina they were obliged to retire. Isle St. Joseph is in circumference probably 60 miles. There are very many islands toward the British maine, and all the labor perplexity and delay of another survey of another Milles Isles is anticipated. St. Joseph is 18 miles long. In the evening a heavy thunder shower from the N.W. which clears off cold with wind from same quarter. Doct'r Bigsby show'd me whilst on shore his minerals collected this Spring. Organic remains from Drummond's Island were the prevailing kind. Some singular, undescribed compound primitive rocks, with one or two minerals of common occurrence, form'd his collection at this time. Friday, August 4. Cloudy and cool. Wind N.W. Messrs. Bird & Stevenson return from Mr. Thompson, having found him nine miles below. They set off for Sault St. Mary, to explore that neighborhood. Remain on board Red Jacket during the morning; and in the after- noon go on shore and in company with Doctr. Bigsby and Mr. Grant mineralize in that neighborhood. Found an amygdaloid 2 containing chrystals of epidote, acicular, &c. 1 Dr. John J. Bigsby of Philadelphia. * Amygdaloid : An igneous rock containing small cavities made by the action of steam before solidification, and later filled with deposits of different minerals. 2go THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Take tea with the gentlemen in camp, and return to the Red Jacket with Mr. Ferguson who spends the night on board. Whilst on shore visited our sick in comp'y with Doctr. Bigsby. Cooper the cook, Ned & Swan, boatmen, are suffering in different degrees from fevers. They were all first taken sick upon Lake Huron, but it is believed brought the disease from St. Clair. In the British party, altho they anchored but two days in St. Clair, several were taken with fevers and ague. They have since recovered on Lake Huron. Saturday, August 5. Remain on board the Red Jacket during the morning. We get under way and anchor nearer the shore and the Con- fiance. Mr. Thompson calls on us on board. He complains of the diffi- culties in his way as regards the survey in this neighborhood: the great number of islands, high winds, burning woods filling the country with smoke, rocky and uneven country affording no places for base lines, without much labor, & innumerable musquitoes & sand flies when above near Lake George, are in the list of his grievances. Mr. Thomp- son conceives Lake Huron to commence at the foot of the Neebish Rapids, 1 that are between Lake George and Lake Huron, according to his construction. In the afternoon land at the British camp and proceed on a min- eralizing expedition solus. Find some handsome greenstone amygda- loid having singular red & white almonds imbedded. In some of these amygdaloids are cavities with chrystals of epidote & a few small gar- nets of the precious kind. The base of the amygdaloids green stone. The porphyry found on the head of Isle St. Joseph is curious. Chrystals of feldspar well defined in green stone, forms the prevailing kind. It is mostly of large chrystals. The toadstone amygdaloid is also found here. Return to the vessel to supper. Sunday, August 6. Remain on board the Red Jacket throughout the day, excepting half an hour to examine a point of Isle St. Joseph. Find nothing of the mineral kingdom to bring away. The upper end of this island is covered with roll'd primitive stones and their varieties are before noticed. The base of this island as of the whole country is limestone. It contains at this place a shell that differs from the shells in the lime stone below, specimens of all which are kept. In the evening Messrs. Bird and Stevenson return from the Sault St. Marie. They describe the route as extremely difficult of survey on account of very many islands. From Drummond's Island to the upper Neebish Rapids they consider as great a task or labor to survey as the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence. Monday, August 7. Make preparations to sail for our station of 1 The region under Article VI of the Treaty of Ghent ended at the foot of this rapids. BOOK SIX 291 survey. Take on board our sick from the British camp all convalescing except Cooper, who has an inflammatory fever. Are obliged to take him on board as the British party are also about to move. We run down about nine miles and come to off Mr. Thompson's camp. It is concluded between Messrs. Bird & Thompson that the former commence his work at the lower point of Drummond's Island between that island and the Canada maine and work up to Mr. Thompson, and that Mr. Thompson finish the country above to the place he set out from. Mr. Thompson considers his section so full of difficulties that it may occupy him for the greater part of the season. Take leave of Mr. Thompson and get under way for the foot of Drummond's Island. The channel being unexplored, are obliged to sail with great caution. Observe some naked detached rocks, some reefs and bars, but generally good depth of water. Come to at sunset in the lee of an island, but its position and name unknown. Ascertain the same to be Drummond's Island. We land at sun set and traverse the shore for a little distance, which is covered with rolled masses of granite, gneiss, trap & silicious pudding stones. Observed at a distant point the lime stone rising in high cliffs forming a bank of 30 or 40 ft. The islands abreast of Drummond's Island decrease as you approach the E. & S.E. end of it, and do not appear more numerous than is desirable to connect with ease and readiness the conduct of the survey. Tuesday, August 8. Get under way from the N. side of Drum- mond's Island where we anchored for the night, and proceed toward the lower end of the island. Wind ahead and light. The atmosphere rather hazy prevents our seeing the distant country. The navigation of this side of the island is good, no soundings and an open course. The islands become less numerous than above; a few small ones are seen in different directions, as also the Canada maine and the Great Mana- toulin. Doubling the lowest point of Drummond's Island, discover an open and large channel between Drummond's Island and the Manatoulin to the opposite side of the lake. Beat up this channel for an anchoring place. No soundings, more than a mile wide, and hand- some shores with small bays. Pass on Drummond's Island a high cliff of lime stone rocks, the first that I've seen of great magnitude this side of Niagara. Similar cliffs however are known upon Lake Erie, by Cleveland &c, and it is said also on the Canada side of Lake Huron. Looking down between the Canada maine and the Manatoulin could not see more islands than would afford facility to the connection of the survey. The day, however, was smoky — Isle St. Joseph, Drummond's Island and the group lying around them are fairly in Lake Huron, and not in the River St. Marie as by the maps. The channel we are 292 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY now in is of great interest. 1 It discloses perhaps the best navigation to the Sault St. Marie and gives us a strong claim to Drummond's Island. The quantity of water, as well as the space between the island and the maine shores, I should say is as 10 to i in favor of the Canada side. Gome to an anchor near the little Manatoulin at dusk, and abreast of Drummond's Island. Wednesday, August 9. Remain at anchor all day on account of calm or head wind. Mr. Bird goes in search of a place for a base line and the Capt. for a harbor and finds one about seven miles South, formed by a small island that lies between Manatoulin & Drummond's and is only separated from the Manatoulin by a shallow and narrow pass, Capt. Gillett having in the morning explored that neighborhood, and Mr. Bird having found a place for a base line upon the same small island of about 1500 ft. in length. Land on the Manatoulin abreast of the vessel and traverse the shore about one mile in search of minerals. The shores are of lime stone mixed with rolled masses of granite, gneiss, pudding stones of different kinds but at this place the lime stone pre- vails. Petrifactions abound of fish and shells & madrepores. Thursday, August 10. Get under way at daybreak, and sail for our harbor as reported yesterday. Run into the small pass between the Manatoulin, and a small island West of it, and come to anchor half a mile from the passage into the lake. The sick are sent on shore and put in tents on the small island, with the exception of Cooper, who is too feeble to move at present. This island is a resort of the Indians for fish. The poles of many huts are now standing and every appearance of some hundreds of them having been in camp here two or three weeks ago. Fish was their object and this basin is well stock'd with them. Traverse the whole of this island, which is near three miles circum- ference. Its shore next to the Manatoulin is lime stone with petrifac- tions on its lake side, and on Drummond's Island side it is covered with primitive stones of granite, gneiss, trap and silicious pudding stones, and green stone amygdaloids of several kinds. The small islands generally have their shores covered with these minerals, and the larger ones and the maine shores show the lime stone formation. Off the South side of the island where we now lie near a mile from it, and the same distance from the channel between it & Drummond's Island as you make this channel from the lake, is a small, naked island, 7 or 8 feet high in its centre, that forms an admirable place for a beacon or light house. It would answer for the navigation of this lake for vessels bound 1 This channel proved of still greater interest, as this was the region over which the Commission ultimately differed: but the differences were compromised, and the report under Art. VI was unanimous. BOOK SIX 293 to the Sault, as well as Drummond's Island, and afford a common benefit to both governments for vessels coming from down the lake and avoiding Mackinac. Friday, August 1 1 . Leave the Red Jacket after breakfast and ex- plore the shore of the great Manatoulin for a mile or more and find no minerals worthy of notice. Rolled stones from the lake cover the shores. Messrs. Bird & Stevenson engaged setting station poles in the neigh- borhood, having yesterday completed the admeasurement of their base line. Capt. Gillett shoots a female grouse on the Manatoulin Island, the first of this species that I have seen or heard of in this part of the coun- try. It was unknown to all the men and others, residents about Lake Erie &c, and only known to such of us as had seen the grouse of the New York market. We are afterwards told by Mr. Stevenson that this bird is well known in lower Canada as the swamp partridge or beach partridge. It feeds on the beach tree and is easily taken, and sometimes without shot. He states it to have a very bitter taste. Cooper the cook, who is very low with a fever is put on shore in a tent. The three sick men on shore in a state of convalescence. Experi- ence much inconvenience for the want of men; Messrs. Bird & Steven- son are obliged to pull with two men to a boat. The disease of all but Cooper is fever and ague. Cooper's disease has terminated in a slow fever that scarcely remits, and in his exhausted state alarms us for his recovery. Doctr. Bigsby had previously reduced him very much by active and prompt prescriptions, and thought that nothing farther than nursing could be done for him. He gives instructions for his treat- ment, which have been complied with since our departure from the British camp. Mr. Ogilvy died of a similar fever to that of Cook's when engaged in the Detroit River. Saturday, August 12. Messrs. Bird & Stevenson and Best leave the vessel early for their respective duties of survey. An Indian in his bark canoe boards us, and is the first native that we have seen about the Manatoulin. He had some fish and a mat to part with, but would not barter for bread, pork, tobacco or whiskey, and asked ridiculous prices in cash for his mat, to wit two dollars; it was old, worn & stained &c. Strangers generally are extravagant in their bargains with Indians. The Indian can only name his price in dollars. For a mat he always asks two dollars, altho' it be worn & old. He knows not the fraction of dollars, and for this reason travellers pay more than they ought. The traders give them the only idea they can have of the value of a dollar by the price they fix upon their articles of traffic, which are always at an enormous advance. He tells them, for instance, that a yard of calico, 294 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY an ornament &c. of 50 cts. value is worth two dollars, and the Indian parts with his skin or other article for the yard of calico &c. When the traveller bargains he must consequently pay the two dollars for the skin that the trader gets for 50 cts., and thus with all their articles of traffic. The better way is to take into your hand the article you want of the Indian, and he waits to see what you give him in return. If he is pleased he will show you more of his saleable affairs, if not he leaves you. We have learned to buy our fish of them in this way. They are very cunning and generally conceal what they have to sell except a portion, which they first dispose of, and then the remainder, if satisfied. Mr. Best on his return states that he saw on the shore of the Great Manatoulin the tracks of a large bear & of other animals. Mr. Steven- son says he saw the tracks of cows, and thinks they may have crossed from Drummond's to the Manatoulin Island on the ice. In the morning ramble about the island where the Red Jacket lies & bring home a few specimens of primitive rocks. Visit our sick in camp and find them all convalescing. In the evening two Indian bark canoes come along side. They said they were on their way to the South side of the Manitou, and from their outfit it appeared that they were bound for a Winter expedition. Snow shoes and the white paraphanalia of an Indian were on board. Their canoes were in excellent order and every- thing about them look'd more clean & studious of comfort than I had ever seen. Their guns & fishing spears were taken great care of. They were unwilling to come on board the Red Jacket, it seem'd as thro' fear. Mr. Ferguson visits us and remains over night. Sunday, August 13. Messrs. Fraser and Stevenson leave the Red Jacket early in the morning for Drummond's Island to endeavor to procure some additional boatmen to supply the places of the sick. The rest of us land on the head of the Manatoulin to hunt such wild animals as might be found. Return after three hours' search, having seen or taken nothing but ducks. Mr. Ferguson leaves us after dinner for his section of survey above Isle St. Joseph, he still remaining at- tached to the British party. Messrs. Fraser and Stevenson return from Drummond's Island at sun set, not having been able to procure any boatmen. Mr. Stevenson estimates our distance from the post on Drummond's Island at twenty miles. According to a calculation made by Hon. Walter Folger, 1 the differ- ence between the latitude calculated upon the principle that the earth 1 Walter Folger of Nantucket, born June 12, 1765, lawyer, politician and scientist, astronomer, etc. BOOK SIX 295 is a sphere, and upon the principle that it is an oblate spheroid is, at par. N 45 1 1'g" & 4/10 of a second. Upon the spheroidal principle the line at the parallel of 45 ° North would be that much farther North. P. Burtsell for Stationery 15-50 Porterage at N York 50 Steamboat Fare to Albany 6. 1 Porter at Albany 37 " Dinner at Barnum's 75 " Stage Fare to Schenectady 75 2 Supper, lodg and break at Schenectady 1 . " Stage fare to Utica 5.25 " Dinner at Palentine 37 3 Sup. & lodg at Utica 75 Stage Fare to Skeneateles 4.25 Dinner at Onandaga 37 Stage Fare Skeneateles to Canandaiga 3. 4th Breakfast at Cayuga 37 Dinner at Canandaiga 50 5th Stage from Canandaiga to Batavia 3.25 Breakfast at LeRoy 37 Stage from Batavia to Buffalo 2.50 Dinner at Pembroke 37^ Expenses to and from Niagara 7.75 10 Landen's bill 9. Carriage to Steamboat 25 nth Stm. Boat Fare B. Rock to Sanduski 14.69 Expenses on board boat 87^ Marsh's bill at Sandusky 9.50 Passage to Maiden from Sandusky 2. Expenses at Searle's at Maiden 3-37/4 Pd Searle for wagon to Camp 2. for canoe to camp 50 5th Pd Clinton for Portage of Agent's Camp Equipage at Black Rock 37^ 5th From Captain Gillett 47. 7th due from Mr. DeRussy 28. due from Majr Fraser 9. 8th due from Mr. Bird 10. 9 due from Majr Fraser 4. due from Captain Gillett 28. 10 due from Capt Gillett 12. 1 2 due from Captain Gillett 12 due from Majr Fraser 2 BOOK SEVEN August 14, 1820 to October 3, 1820 Monday, August 14, 1820. On board the Schr. Red Jacket, at anchor off the head or N.W. end of the Manatoulin. Mr. Bird engaged conducting the survey up the S. side of Drummond's Island, and Mr. Stevenson surveying the channel between Drummond's Island and the Manatoulin. Mr. DeRussy delineates the small island where we lie at anchor and Mr. Best traverses the same. Clear and pleasant until eve- ning, when a heavy rain falls. Wind S.E. Tuesday, August 15. Accompany Mr. Stevenson on his tour of sur- vey for the purpose of examining the minerals and exploring this part of the route. Traverse a great part of the east end of Drummond's Island where he is engaged measuring angles. The shores are mostly covered with loose stratified lime stone. Occasionally roll'd masses of granite, gneiss, green stone, slate &c. cover the lime stone. No petrifac- tions on this end of the island. Cross from the point of Drummond's to the Manatoulin. The lime stone differs a little from that on the opposite shore; is more compact and darker color. Opposite, the lime stone is singularly marked or cut with small deep lines running in all directions. Bring home some varieties of primitive rock compound, not described, I believe, and some handsome grapphic granite. Mr. Stevenson occu- pies all the remaining stations on both shores of the channel between Drummond's and the Manatoulin, and completes the survey to that point from which it becomes necessary to include the distant islands toward the Canada shore in the observations. It is thought these islands may be embraced and used as connecting points by the means of fires and smokes to distinguish them. Mr. Bird also carries the survey as far up the S. W. side of Drummond's Island as is practicable without tedi- ous island operations, for the want of islands as connecting points, the Detour Point and maine land being out of sight. Mr. Stevenson and myself return to the Red Jacket about eight o'clock at night when a heavy storm of wind and rain sets in from the N. W. and continues through the night. Wednesday, August 16. A heavy gale from the S.W. and thick cloudy day prevents the gentlemen going out in the morning to their distant stations. They remain on board and spend the day in making up their notes of survey and protracting maps. BOOK SEVEN 297 Finding the schooner cabins more comfortable than a camp I pass the season on board in preference. The vessel always being moored near the shore and a boat at command, the accommodation is some- what like that of a house. Thursday, August 17. Cloudy and cool, with a very heavy gale of wind from the N.W. Messrs. Bird and Stevenson set off for the N.E. end of Drummond's Island, passing thro' this channel, to establish stations to connect the distant islands seen from that place. An unfortunate occurrence gave me an opportunity this morning to save one of our men from a watery grave. Poor Russell fell overboard from the schooner in attempting to jump into the boat alongside. Not knowing how to swim he soon sank. DeRussy's alarm, who first saw him, satisfied me that he saw no means of saving Russell and I leapt overboard and brought him alongside, when with the assistance of ropes which I placed under his arms, he was taken on board nearly exhausted. Poor Russell was sinking the third time when I caught him. Mr. Bird returns in the evening, not having been able to do much on account of the tremendous gale. He observes for latitude at the N.E. point of Drummond's Island and makes it 46°i\ Mr. Stevenson does not return to the Schr. Is obliged on account of the high winds and heavy seas to encamp out for the night. Remain on board the Red Jacket throughout the day, as well thro' necessity as choice. The necessity arose from the loss of our skiff when Russell fell overboard, he having cast her off before he attempted to jump into her. The skiff was driven ashore on the point of the Mana- toulin, and narrowly escaped driving into the lake. We were without a boat until Mr. Bird returned in the evening when The Lady was dis- patched for the skiff. The sick man on shore had not been visited since early in the morning for the want of a boat, but in the evening we were pleased to hear that he only complained of hunger, a sign of conva- lescence in our cook that the poor fellow had many a time given us good reason to comprehend in its full extent. Friday, August 18. The gale continues from the N.W. Mr. Bird goes off on duty. Mr. Stevenson comes in about noon. Mr. Best accom- panies Mr. Bird. Mr. Stevenson placed a station on a long point around the N. end of the Manatoulin, from which point he states the island contracts in width; and that there are not many islands to be seen lying toward the Canada shore, save the cluster abreast of this channel & none further down in sight. Saturday, August 19. Accompany Mr. Best to the S. point of Drum- mond's Island where he goes to finish his delineations and I to explore. Return at 1 o'clock. Nothing new in the way of minerals. Observe a sail running down by Drummond's Island apparently making for the 298 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY channel below it. She runs thro' this channel and is probably the only- vessel beside the Red Jacket that ever sailed thro' this pass. From her looks and manoeuvres we believe her to be the Confiance. She runs toward the Canada shore 'til out of sight. In the afternoon we amuse ourselves in catching a mess of cray fish. They are numerous about the shores, and resemble in all things except size the salt water lobster. We take two hundred of them and boil them for supper. These lobsters are from one to four inches long, are insipid, but were thought to taste like the large lobster. Our men eat them raw as a relish. Mr. Bird returns to the Red Jacket in the evening, having been to the small islands that lie off this channel. They are ten miles from the Manatoulin and five from the Canada shore. He can see stations that he erects on these islands from Drummond's and the Manatoulin, but not vice versa, and thinks there is sufficient shelter there to form a har- bor for the Red Jacket. He also says that he saw a channel thro' to the lake below the island which we have heretofore believed the Great Manatoulin — That this island is consequently one of the Manatoulin but not the Great Manitou, and is but about 3 miles long. This error confirms my belief that there is as little truth or knowledge of this coun- try in the accounts we get from the voyageurs as in the maps. Sunday, August 20. Clear and pleasant day. Tempe. at noon 71 , the same yesterday. Remain on board the Red Jacket most of the day. Two of the men go hunting on the Manitou and return with nothing but a brace of partridges and a pigeon. They saw no wild animals what- ever and were prevented penetrating the woods because of their thick brambles and scraggy growth. The land covered with rock, but little soil. There grows on the beach a wild cherry (sand cherry) that is palatable. It is black when ripe and larger than our wild cherry. Grows on a low bush that lies on the ground, which is from three to four feet in length. The timber on these islands cedar, pine and birch, as of the whole country around that I've yet seen. Monday, August 21. Leave our snug harbor between Drummond's and the first Manitou, for another more central to the operations of the survey. Get under way about 8 o'clock, with a south wind, run thro' the channel toward the Canada maine, and come to in a cluster of small islands that lie N. of this channel and ten miles distant & five miles from the maine shore. Soundings at thirty four fathoms midway between these islands and the first Manitou. Discover very distinctly a fine broad passage between the first Manitou and what we now suppose to be the Great Manitou. Mr. Stevenson leaves us abreast of the N. point of Drummond's Island where he goes to occupy the stations that connect these islands with that. In the afternoon land on one of these islands and find the lime stone BOOK SEVEN 299 exceedingly full of petrifactions of shells. Take specimens. Our anchor- age not being very good, the captain goes in search of better but reports the bottom to be stony in all directions. Mr. Bird lands on another of them in the evening to make a signal preconcerted with Stevenson by lighting of fires. He returns by ten o'clock and states that he saw Mr. Stevenson's signal on the N. point of Drummond's and another opposite on the Manitou, to wit, large fires, and that he had the fortune to measure the angles of both, so that these islands are connected in their work with those more important ones, giving us their distance and situation. We had feared from their dis- tance that it would have been difficult if not impracticable to do so, by this mode of survey. There is little doubt but what the large fire lighted by Mr. Bird was distinctly seen and used by Mr. Stevenson to observe upon, a method sufficiently accurate for our purpose in this particular situation, which cannot be debatable, but not equally accurate with most of the previous work. Tuesday, August 22. Mr. Bird leaves the Red Jacket for an island some miles N. & W. (5 miles) of the groupe we lie in; establishes his stations; preconcerts a signal with Mr. DeRussy to observe at night, to wit, a fire upon the island he occupied last night. Land upon three of the adjacent islands. One of them has its shores of dark colored strati- fied lime stone very full of shells of various kinds, and affords large and handsome slabs or masses to polish. When polished, some of it is of dark yellow or brown & some nearly black. There are roll'd masses of primitive rock upon the points of this island. The next island is more mixed in its formation, the one end being of lime stone, which has a vein running across the island containing much sulphuret of iron and terminates in high cliffs of hard rock that may be called quartzy sand stone. This rock is broken into great rhomboidal masses having a dip of about 30", but lying contiguous to each other. Another small island is of more remarkable formation. The high rock is a coarse and hard trap. The next is finer & the lowest apparent is a coarser & hard slaty rock, the first running by gradations into the last. Many of these rocks are traversed by veins of white quartz, and rocks of white quartz and chlorite are numerous. No lime stone upon this island. Polish a piece of the shell lime stone of the first island, which proves a handsome marble. Find the petrifaction of part of a very large fish. It shows its articulations distinctly and is a species of orthocera. At night Messrs. DeRussy and Bird light their fires as signals. Mr. Stevenson's are not seen. A storm prevents Mr. Bird's return to the vessel. Wednesday, August 23. Mr. Bird reaches the vessel to breakfast, having slept on the island where his last station is, on account of bad weather. 300 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Visit an island three miles distant that abounds in petrifactions of a fish not seen before (orthocera) . The island is mixed of a hard quartzy stone, sand stone and lime stone. The primitive stone or rock is alto- gether too principal to admit the idea of their having been brought here from other places, by any convulsions subsequent to the grand chaos & is, I think, in situ. Mr. Bird leaves the vessel in the afternoon for the island he occupied last night preparatory to his evening observations, and Mr. DeRussy goes to another to light a fire as a distant signal, both for Mr. Bird and Mr. Stevenson on Drummond's Island. We lie about 10 miles North of Drummond's. The before mentioned rock composing much of these islands is the quartzy sand stone terminating in slate. They are stratified and are of the transition rocks, que. primitive. Some of the lime stone contains an oily substance of strong odor and dark color and is like the bituminous limestone of Lake Erie and Buffalo. This oil is collected and called Seneca Oil in State of New York (Bitumen). It is only found to my knowledge in lime stone containing petrifactions. Mr. Bird returns at midnight to the vessel, having observed from his station two fires by Mr. Stevenson on Drummond's Island and one on the Manitou. Thursday, August 24. Mr. Bird employs the morning in surveying the islands where the vessel lies. Establishes the latitude of these islands to be 46V. Find on one of them some good petrifactions of shells and a part of a very large orthocera that was probably 6 inches diameter, its present breadth being that much. Friday, August 25. Mr. Stevenson and Mr. Best return from Drum- mond's Island to the Red Jacket, and in the afternoon Mr. Bird leaves the vessel for the Canada shore, five or six miles distant. The wind high from S.E. During the afternoon a continuance of thunder showers and high wind from all points between S.E. and N.W. Mr. Stevenson gives me a specimen of shell petrifactions broken from the top of a cliff on Drummond's Island, 150 feet above level of the lake. August 26. A gale of wind from the W. which continues to increase during the day. In the morning we saw Mr. Bird in the Lady of the Lakes running off the Canada shore. He makes the lee of an island East of the vessel half a mile, where he is obliged to remain. Spend most of the morning on the adjacent island amongst petrifactions of shell fish of various kinds. Find Epidote in pretty good chrystals and mixed with white quartz. The gale increases to an alarming degree, not knowing whether our anchorage would prove secure. In the afternoon a heavy sea breaks the skiff from her moorings astern of the vessel and she is driven down the lake between the Manitou and the Canada maine, it BOOK SEVEN 301 having been judged impracticable or unsafe to attempt to recover her by putting off in another boat. Mr. Stevenson is obliged to remain on board the vessel on account of the tremendous gale; and we are relieved from any anxiety on Mr. Bird's account, as we see him on the island to the leeward where he encamps and remains with his boat's crew for the night. The gale continues 'til midnight with great violence, and we retire satisfied of the security of the vessel, the anchorage having been well tried during the day Wind W.N.W., Tempe. at noon 6i°. Cloudy with some rain. Sunday, August 27. Clear, wind W.N.W. Gale abated, but wind fresh. Mr. Bird makes the vessel with his crew at daybreak. States that the Canada main North of us is very rocky — The shore indented with bays but the reefs of rocks numerous & dangerous. The formations primitive. Messrs. Stevenson, DeRussy & myself go on a mineralizing expedi- tion to an island three miles East of us, and return in the afternoon amply compensated in good specimens of fossils of various kinds. The prominent points on the north sides of these islands generally are tran- sition rocks. Transition lime stone on the south sides. The remains of very large fish are numerous (orthocera) , but none found entire. The quartzy sand stone rocks are stratified and have inclinations at the angles of 23 . The remains of many of the orthocera very much resemble human bones of the leg. The fossil tar, or Seneca Oil, or bitumen of lime stone is found in much of the stone containing petrifactions. Large masses of chrystallized carbonate of lime, mostly rhomboidal, may be found on the shores of these islands detached, and is seen in the rock. The hollow parts of petrifactions are sometimes filled with transparent carbonate of lime adding to their beauty. Monday, August 28. Mr. Bird goes to the Canada maine to occupy some and place other stations. Mr. Stevenson goes to an island East of us for same purpose, and Messrs. DeRussy and Best accompany him to traverse and delineate that island. We are, on account of the loss of a boat in the late gale, left without the means of getting on shore. Find ample employ on board the Red Jacket in arranging minerals and with the aid of a book forget my imprisonment. Messrs. Stevenson, DeRussy and Best return in the evening from the island East of us the two latter having traversed & delineated the shores of the same, and the former was prevented occupying the stations with his theodolite on account of a thick smoke that obscured the main shores and neighboring islands. 302 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY They brought with them several fragments of petrifactions of very large orthocera, from three to six inches diameter. There is on this island a ridge of rock ioo feet above the lake that affords a handsome demonstration of the waters having at some time overflowed it, viz., a beach of small round pebbles of quartz & lime stone &c. of about 10 rods in length, and strewed regularly as on a beach. The rock itself is of the quartzy sand stone kind and is in some places nearly all quartz of ordinary character. We have called this island High Beach Island, by which name it is known by all of our people. Tuesday, August 29. The sun rises perfectly bright, but the at- mosphere is soon obscured with smoke that arises from the fires in the woods on the Manatoulin & Drummond's. Messrs. Stevenson and Best leave us on a tour of duty for two or three days to the islands & main shore. The atmosphere having been obscured with smoke throughout the day, no use could have been made of the theodolites either by Mr. Stevenson or Mr. Bird, the latter having been on the Canada main the two days past. In the evening Mr. Bird returns having whilst absent fixed his stations along the main and the islands North and West of us until he came in sight of the stations of the British party, and as far as he considers his section of the survey to extend. Wednesday, August 30. The sun rises bright but the atmosphere as yesterday is soon obscured by a fog and not a smoke as we heretofore have concluded. As nothing could be done with the theodolite, Mr. Bird makes up his notes, and in the afternoon he and Mr. DeRussy go on a tour of duty for some days; the Red Jacket to take another station as soon as Mr. Stevenson shall have completed the work in this neigh- borhood which one bright day would allow him to do. A very fine schist or slate is found on the surrounding islands from which I make excellent hones, as do others of the party. In the afternoon and evening thunder showers with gusts of wind. Rain throughout the night with thunder & lightning. Wind from all points, a circumstance not uncommon in twenty four hours on Lake Huron. Thursday, August 31st. Cold and cloudy morning. At 6 o'clock a heavy rain with snow that clears away by 8 o'clock and leaves an atmosphere sufficiently bright to use the theodolite in short distances. Heavy lowering clouds. The party of surveyors all out on duty as yester- day. The rain was mixed with snow but for a few minutes. Ther. at noon 6i°, at 6 a.m. 50 . It continues cloudy throughout the day and occasionally a little rain. The wind high from W.N.W., and the sky and atmosphere both abun- dantly indicate the approach of Autumn on Lake Huron at an early day. BOOK SEVEN 303 September 1 . Clear and cool day, wind high, from W.N.W. Remain on board the Red Jacket, feeling the want of a boat very much. Mr. Bird absent in the Lady of the Lakes and Mr. Stevenson in the Black Jack. For the latter begin to grow a little anxious, knowing that he must be out of provisions, having taken a supply for two days only, and this being the fourth since his departure. Head and high winds rendering his return impracticable. Toward evening Messrs. Bird and DeRussy return to the vessel in The Lady, having occupied all the stations on the main as far as his section extends West, as well as on some of the islands. The Thepsalon River comes in as laid down on Purdy's map pretty nearly. The coast is rocky, the small islands or large rocks in- numerable. On the Thepsalon is a trading post of the North West Com- pany, not seen, however, by Mr. Bird. At midnight Messrs. Stevenson and Best return to the Red Jacket in the Black Jack, having been four days absent on two days' provisions. Mr. Stevenson states that in pursuance of his instructions he proceeded to establish stations on the chain of islands N.E. of us, extending toward the main, and that altho' not apparent because in line and they de- crease in size, they proved to be very numerous. He followed the chain about 15 miles which brought him to a river called the Mississaga, where is also a trading post of the North West Company. This river is small and has fourteen portages between its mouth and a small lake in the interior where it takes its rise. The traders call it twenty days' tour to this lake. There are 13 Indian families only upon the river Mississaga. The post is at a point where the river divides and passes thro' two branches into the lake and is two miles from the lake — Mr. Stevenson here saw the first white man or hut seen since we left Drum- mond's Island. The trader established there is a Canadian, comfortably posted. Has a log house of two rooms, & storehouse. Cultivates a few potatoes. Has a horse and cow which complete his establishment. There were several Indians at the post who had brought in skins and come to barter for provisions. Their hunt is nearly exhausted as well as themselves. They are considered indolent and only bring in furs when they are much in want of provisions &c. Messrs. Stevenson & Best could not add to their provisions here. The trader like themselves was in want. The Indians, however, gladly furnished a piece of a sturgeon and some pigeons for a little pork; and the trader said he would be glad to exchange his potatoes for pork and whiskey. From Mississaga to Thepsalon River is 30 miles. The wind dies away at night and Mr. Stevenson is enabled to return. He reaches the vessel at midnight; and was as happy to sit down to some cold pork and hard bread as I was to be relieved from anxiety on his account and those with him. 304 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY September 2. Clear and pleasant. Messrs. Bird and DeRussy leave us in The Lady on a tour of duty to the North end of the section of survey, to be absent until the vessel shall make a harbor assigned in that quarter, which will be as soon as Mr. Stevenson shall have com- pleted the work at the East end of the section. We get under way in the Red Jacket, and make another harbor between two islands about three miles East, that affords a better pro- tection from the N.W. winds; and is in other respects more convenient. Moor the vessel in a narrow pass between two islands at 1 o'clock per- fectly land lock'd in every direction. In the afternoon, land on the larger island of the two, and ascend the cliff, where is a pebble beach 150 ft. above level of lake. The pebbles are mostly lime stone; the cliffs & nearly all the island, quartz rock. Mr. Stevenson leaves the vessel in the afternoon for an island N.W. of us, to light a fire as a station signal for Mr. Bird to connect it with others. The night is clear but wind very high. Capt. Gillett accompanies Mr. Stevenson. Sunday, September 3. The party all absent save self, Fraser and Best. After breakfast get on shore on the island near us by means of a little log canoe, picked up near the vessel, that had been driven on shore. The canoe was split and mutilated, but by great care in sitting perfectly still and keeping an exact poise succeeded in reaching the island. Proceed on a mineralizing expedition with a biscuit in my pocket, resolved to remain on shore 'til the return of the Black Jack to the Red Jacket, rather than risk another cruise in the little canoe. Traverse the shore and discover some very large and fine petrifactions of orthocera. Succeed in breaking out one about two feet long, and another having a green unctuous substance where the siphuncle is. Observe others but could neither break them out the rocks nor carry them when broken out. The island generally is of quartzy sand stone formation, sometimes a stratum of lime stone appears which contains these petrifactions. It is, however, nearly all primitive. On my return to the vessel, find that Mr. Stevenson had returned with the boat, by which I get on board. Monday, September 4. Clear and temperate. Mr. Stevenson goes to the Canada main, East of us, to observe at his stations there, and returns in the evening having completed his work in that neighborhood. After breakfast I land on the island near us, called Stonefish Island by the party, to mineralize and Capt. Gillett accompanies me with a man in Mr. Stevenson's boat to construct a raft, by which we may pass from the vessel to the shore in the absence of our two boats. Return about one o'clock and find the raft afloat by which I get on board, and Crusoe like, depend upon the resources of the wilderness and my own wits for BOOK SEVEN 305 transportation. The raft, altho' very clumsy, sufficiently answers the purpose when it is calm. In a wind is unmanageable and we are con- fined to the vessel. Tuesday, September 5. Remain on board the Red Jacket through- out the day, having heretofore explored the islands in the immediate neighborhood. Put up a box of petrifactions in travelling order for New York. Find a good substitute for paper &c, in the moss of rocks that answers the purpose of packing very well. Amongst the mosses of the rocks there is one frequently used by Voyageurs and others for food. I have been told of persons having sub- sisted upon this moss for the space of three months. Mr. Pomeville, of the British party, says he has used it principally as a subsistence for about that time when a fur trader. It is boiled for use. Lay by a speci- men of it. Mr. Stevenson concludes the survey of this end of the section and announced his readiness to sail to the other to meet Mr. Bird. We wait a wind for that purpose. The moss is the Tripe du roche of the Voyageurs and of Botanists. Wednesday, September 6. A perfect calm throughout the day obliges us to remain at anchor in our snug harbor unable of course to co-operate with Mr. Bird, who fortunately has been absent since Satur- day in the west end of the section, and has had mild and calm weather to conduct the survey. Thursday, September 7. Rain without wind in the morning occa- sions us to fear that we will be under the necessity of remaining at anchor another day. About eleven o'clock it clears away and a light breeze from the S.E. induces us to get under way for the upper end of this section of survey, where we arrive at sun set. Come to anchor on the S.E. side of an island that lies off the Thepsalon River, and is called Thepsalon Island, in a bay forming a pretty good harbor particularly for north and west winds. When distant a few miles discover Mr. Bird's tents in the bottom of this bay, and before we arrive there he and Mr. DeRussy board us. They had been anxiously awaiting our arrival, their stores having failed them two days ago. They found, however, Mr. Thompson encamped within ten miles of them, who added a little to their subsistence, but when we arrived they were without bread and pork. The British party are about connecting their work with this end of our section. The Confiance is somewhere in harbor near us to the North but not in sight. Their party is to proceed, when this section is completed, to the Great Manitou and the channel between that and the first, or Little Manitou, and we to the S. side of Drummond's Island. 306 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Friday, September 8. A very thick fog, with an easterly wind in the morning. Clinton is dispatched after breakfast in a skiff (procured from the British party to replace our lost boat) to Drummond's Island for provisions, and our letters and papers. Send with him Grant as an oars- man but have some fear from the course he was seen steering that he would be lost for a time in the fog. It clears away about eleven o'clock and we feel a sure hope of hearing from our friends by Clinton tomor- row. Mr. Bird employs his men cutting a Base Line on Thepsalon Island. Had great difficulty in finding a place suitable for a Base Line & as he progresses doubts whether the present will answer his purpose. Thepsalon Island has more soil upon it than any that I have been upon, but not sufficient to call it a tillable island. Mr. Thompson has found it impracticable to find a place for his Base Line to close his work of this section on account of the extreme rockiness, irregularity and un- suitable positions of the islands for such a purpose. Mr. Stevenson and self explore the shores of Thepsalon Island in search of minerals. Find good petrifactions of orthocera. Saw some in the rocks four feet in length and nine inches diameter at the upper end. The heads & tails of the large orthocera are generally wanting. Pretty good chrystals of iron pyrites, mixed with carbonate of lime are found here. Thepsalon Island is of the transition sand stone and lime stone, and the bays are covered with rolled masses of primitive stones. It is about three miles in circumference and longer than any of the islands in this groupe N. & W. from end of Drummond's. Saturday, September gth. Messrs. Bird and Stevenson go to Drum- mond's Island to search for a proper place for a Base Line, and find one there a mile in length. DeRussy and Best traverse and delineate Thep- salon Island. At 10 o'clock we see the Confiance off our harbor, and soon after Mr. Gibbs arrives in Mr. Thompson's boat, and Mr. Ferguson in his own. From them we learn that their party was then moving to their new section of survey, i.e. to survey the channel between the Small and the Great Manitou. As we were now anxiously waiting the return of Clin- ton with our mail, Mr. Ferguson concludes to remain to receive his letters & papers from home; and the wind and weather both proving unfavorable Gibbs and Ferguson spend the day and night on board the Red Jacket, their crews encamping on shore. In the afternoon we see the Lady of the Lakes returning, having in tow the skiff that was dis- patched for our mail. As she nears us all the party collect on the quarter deck anxiously anticipating the pleasant and unpleasant tidings that are to be disclosed to them in a few minutes, from their friends that have been unheard of for a three months past. Altho' an observer of the scene my own feelings were no doubt betrayed in an anxious counte- BOOK SEVEN 307 nance. On the arrival of the boat the scene was suddenly changed from looks of hope and pleasure to those of anger, and in one or two cases, despair. Our messenger announced: 'No letters! No mail!' Whether the married or the single felt the greatest disappointment was as well a doubt as a joke to help drive away the general gloom. Upon a full com- parison of notes, however, it would seem that the former had the greater reason. Newly married, most of them, with infant families or infants in embryo, as the case might be, it was conceded that news from home had some additional interest to the former tho' perhaps none more dear than to the latter. We all spend the night on board drowning our sor- rows as well as we can. At night a very heavy and continued rain, with much lightning. The explanation why our mail was not brought proved to be that a few hours before the arrival of Clinton at Drummond's Island Mr. Anderson, 1 the Collector, had dispatched an Indian with the packets tor us, and instructed him to search amongst the Manitou for our vessel or party. Sunday, September 10. Cloudy with showers. Messrs. Ferguson and Gibbs take leave of us after breakfast for their section of survey at the head of the Great Manitou. In the afternoon, Messrs. Bird, Stevenson and self take the skiff and go upon a mineralizing expedition on Thepsalon Island. Discover a large canoe making around the point of the island toward Drummond's which at first we hope and believe to be the Indian canoe dispatched with our letters in search of us; but soon perceive from her great size and number of hands that she is a Trader's Canoe with Voyageurs. Upon seeing our boat she stops and we put off to her. She proved to be a large birch canoe, with a party of Canadian fur traders belonging to the Lake Winnipeg Country, just from Montreal. Eight paddles and the trader seated like a Nabob in their center composed the party. The trader at once told that he belonged to Lake Winnipeg, had been to Montreal to buy goods and was returning with three canoes loaded; that he had been in the employ of Lord Selkirk and made sufficient earnings to trade for himself; that this was his first voyage to Montreal in the thirty years past. He appeared to be an intelligent man, and his great strength, health and activity gave evidence of his ability to endure the rudeness of the life he leads. His crew were much of the same appearance and in high spirits. His birchen canoe was of the first class and hand- somely decorated. Upon the prow was written its name: Pret-a-Boyre, 1 William Anderson, born Chester Co., Pa., in 1763 and died there in 1829. A colonel on staff of Lafayette, later a member of Congress, a county judge, and a col- lector of customs. 3 o8 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Ready to Drink. When we noticed it, by one of the party mentioning the name, the Canadians gave a shout of gratification, and the trader forthwith ordered some drink, upon which the pilot raised a 10 gll. keg of rum and poured some into a one-gallon measure which was handed to the trader who, pouring some into a pint cup, pass'd it to us. We drank to them & the trader and his pilot did the like, after which the usual courtesies of a politer clime than that of Lake Huron were exchanged, & we parted. They, in full chorus, and in conscious pride of their skill and rapid progress, were soon wafted out of sight and hearing; and we made the best row we could to the island to take shelter from a heavy shower approaching. Voyageurs like, we instantly upon landing form'd a tent by placing some poles against a tree and, throwing our oil cloth over them, we crawl under our roof and are sheltered from as heavy and pitiless a thunder storm as ever arrested the progress of the Voyageur. It shortly cleared off and we sallied out to our boat, and after visiting the parts of the island where the fish petri- factions abound and making our selection, returned to the Red Jacket. The trader's birch canoe made a harbor to the lee of a neighboring island, where they remained for the night. They had not stop'd since they left Les Cloches, which is about 30 leagues from this and only stop'd to breakfast or dine in their canoe. The trader informed us in a few words that there was no news of moment at Montreal, that the new Govt, of the Provinces (Dalhousie) had entered upon the duties of his office; that money was very scarce and goods cheap. His men made us understand that the North West Company, to use their language, was very poor this year, meaning that the Indians brought in but few furs to them; and at the same time evincing their partiality to the Hudson's Bay Compy. In truth, these men, now independent traders, were formerly the partisans of Ld. Selkirk 1 and still remain attached to his cause. Selkirk by establishing such men as these in the fur trade on their own account, has given the North West & probably the South West a blow that they may not recover from very readily. The country known as the Les Cloches lies on the North side of Lake Huron commencing at a point known by that name and extending to Thepsalon Point, about one hundred miles in length. It takes its name from the tinkling sound of the rocks on that coast when struck by a hammer &c. These rocks are probably the clink stone, of which I have 1 Thomas Douglas, Earl of Selkirk, born in Scotland in June 1 771 , died 1820. Financed settlements of Scottish people on Prince Edward's Island and on the Red River on a great tract of land he had obtained there. The last brought him in conflict with the Northwest Trading Company. In 1816 he visited the colony and restored the people to their lands from which they had been driven. Copies of his papers, mosdy unpublished, are in the Canadian Archives Department at Ottawa. BOOK SEVEN 309 seen considerable quantity on the islands about the head of the Manitou. Monday, September 1 1 . Cloudy, with showers throughout the day, and a cold wind from the N.W. Wind very high obliges the whole party to remain on board the Red Jacket, it not being safe to venture in our boats on the lake, where the business of the survey called. At night the storm abates & gale of wind lulls. The Aurora Borealis very luminous on the horizon under the heavy clouds that cover the heavens. In the course of the night the Northern Lights became more luminous and reached the zenith. Among the phenomena of the season, witnessed by Mr. Bird was a very remarkable appearance of distant objects commonly called the looming of them, and known as the refraction of them (mirage) . He distinctly saw three Islands over each other. He states that the beach and the trees of each island were distinctly seen. It was at o'clock of the day. The object itself was repeated twice, that is, three objects were seen over each other, the island included. This degree of refraction is considered remarkable, it not being recollected by me that an object has been seen more than once refracted so very distinctly. The same appearance in a less degree of the islands West of the vessel, was ob- served on the same day by Capt. Gillett and myself, but did not exceed the ordinary looming of objects as expressed by seamen. Tuesday, September 12. Clear with a high N.W. wind but not so strong as to prevent the surveyors setting off to their respective stations. Mr. Bird goes with the Lady of the Lakes to Drummond's Island, and Mr. DeRussy accompanies him in the skiff to the same place, to employ their men during the day upon their Base Line, and in the night to light several fires for observation. Mr. Stevenson goes to an island eight miles West of us, for the purpose of lighting corresponding fires with Mr. Bird, by which they are to measure the angles of those several stations or fires. The day continues clear and proves a fine day for the work. We are without a boat on board the Red Jacket, consequently obliged to remain in the vessel, within 100 yards of the shore, the more to my dissatisfaction, as the Thepsalon Island abounds in good speci- mens of petrifactions, that I should like more deliberately to use my hammer and chisel upon. Wednesday, September 13. Clear and pleasant day. Wind fresh from S. & S.E., which toward evening becomes a gale. Remain as yesterday on board the Red Jacket throughout the day, for the want of a boat. About sunset Mr. Stevenson returns with the Black Jack. He did not see the fire that it was understood Mr. Bird was to light last night on Drummond's Island. He made so large a fire on the island he went to, that he thinks Mr. Bird must have observed it. 310 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY On that island, Mr. Stevenson found the field turnip growing and brought us some for supper. There had been an Indian camp there, and they may have scattered the seed in the Spring. He also found there several varieties of compound rocks not observed before. Among the most interesting was a compound of Epidote and Amianthus — Some Porphyries &c. Mr. Stevenson also went to Thepsalon Point where he occupied a station to good advantage, having a bright atmosphere that enabled him to see distant stations. Mr. Bird was twelve or fifteen miles distant from Mr. Stevenson last night, at which distance fires well lighted might be well seen. The non-observance of them, he cannot account for. At night the gale increases, wind S., and it rains for the greater part of the night. Thursday, September 14. The gale still strong from the S. & S.W. Toward noon, it dies away and Mr. Bird and Mr. DeRussy return in the Lady of the Lakes from Drummond's Island to the Red Jacket at Thepsalon Island, a distance of about 10 miles. They had suffered con- siderably from the rain, but the greater inconvenience was the fact of their not having seen Mr. Stevenson's fire on Tuesday evening. They state also that they did make three very large fires on Drummond's Island agreeably to arrangement, none of which were seen by Mr. Stevenson. This circumstance can only be accounted for by some pecul- iar state of the atmosphere. Fires were seen heretofore from and at the same stations. The sky was almost entirely clear and the atmosphere light and dry. The fires they say sent a flame 20 feet high. Distance 15 miles. In the afternoon, they again set off for their respective stations to repeat the fires and take the necessary observations, but they both find it impracticable to proceed on account of the sea running and the wind and the threatening of a storm at night, and about sunset both boats from different routes reach the Red Jacket in safety. The storm of rain continues at night. The wind falls. Wind at night W.S.W. Friday, September 15. Clear, wind high from S. & S.W. Messrs. Bird and Stevenson find it impracticable to cross to their respective stations on account of the gale. All hands remain on board the Red Jacket until afternoon, when the wind falling a little, Mr. Bird in The Lady crosses to Drummond's Island & Mr. Stevenson in the Black Jack sets off for the island about 10 miles N.E. of us to light the same fires for observation, that they failed to see heretofore. In the evening, the wind changes to N.N.W., is light and the atmosphere clear, favor- able for seeing fires at long distances. Saturday, September 16. Cloudy, wind strong from S.W. In the afternoon heavy rain. BOOK S EVEN 311 Mr. Stevenson returns and says that he distinctly saw two fires made by Mr. Bird on Drummond's and was enabled to observe upon the same. Mr. Bird returns and states that he could not see Mr. Stevenson's, so as to use it for observation. That by climbing up a tree, his fire was very apparent, but that at his instrument, at the foot of that tree, no fire was perceptible. In fact, that upon one branch of the tree he could see the fire and on the branch below, it could not be seen. The distance between the two objects, or the convexity of the earth was of course the obstruction. The island upon which Mr. Stevenson made his fire was nearly upon a level with the water. Mr. Bird was some feet above the water. Capt. Gillett and myself go in search of petrifactions on Thepsalon Island, and discover a bed of orthocera in a good state of preservation where any quantity could be collected by overturning the thin strata of lime stone in which they were imbedded. Lay by a considerable pile of them, and in the afternoon go with the boat and bring them on board. In the afternoon a heavy wind and rain causes a hard pull and wet jackets as a set-off against our good specimens of orthocera. Several new species are found among the orthocera of this island, for which see paper by Dr. Bigsby in London Geo. Soc. Trans. Sunday, September 17. Clear and cool, wind fresh from W. and W.N.W. At day break get under way from Thepsalon Island for the bay on the N.W. side of Drummond's Island, in which bay is the Indian village or settlement called Portaganasing. Come to anchor in the lee of a small island in this bay next to the island where the Indian village is. This bay is of very considerable extent in depth and width and con- tains a group of several small islands, forming altogether the most beautiful neighborhood for scenery and soil that we have as yet seen upon Lake Huron. This group of islands is timbered with poplar, pine, birch & spruce trees and not so rocky as those we have left. After the Red Jacket was moored we visited the Indian settlement. It lies on the side of an island nearest Drummond's Island & about half a mile distant. Consists of 7 or 8 bark huts on an eminence. When we came in sight off the settlement the Indians and squaws seemed a good deal surprised & when we landed, some of the squaws took to the fields, others hid themselves in their huts; the few Indians collected in a groupe to receive us. We inquired for their Captain or Chief and gave him some pork. The others soon bro't us an abundance of good potatoes to barter and the Chief sent some as a return for the pork. There was living among them a Frenchman, thro' whom we made ourselves understood. His family were half breeds and rather well looking, particularly one of his young squaws, but her modesty pre- 3 i2 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY vented our observing her good looks very critically, as she retired to the fields or other huts as we approached. They were mostly employed making bark canoes and drying their corn over a slow fire for winter use. The corn is spread upon a framework of withes raised four feet from the ground under which is kept up a slow fire, until the corn is well dried or partially roasted. It is dried in this way when green & on the cob. Their bark canoes were handsome and well made. The women do much of the work upon them. A good canoe, never used, was offered to me for six dollars; it was about 15 feet long & well finished. Not knowing how to transport it, Maj'r Fraser purchased it for Black Rock. I ordered a small bark canoe made as a model, and bark baskets used by them as curiosities, for my New York friends. They were much gratified with their pork and forthwith went to eating of it. In the course of the day two or three other canoes came off, with potatoes and squashes. They did not bring any fish, and complained of the high winds that had prevented their fishing. These poor creatures seemed much in want of provisions and clothing. In the Winter their distress must be great. There are no deer taken by them, from which they might get good skins to cover them. Their Chief and the Frenchman, however, had deerskin leggings and shirts. In the afternoon we walked around an island near us, but found it destitute of interest for minerals. The shores of this group of islands are low, timbered nearly to the water, covered with small pebbles, and bold. In the morning a boat was dispatched to the Post on Drummond's Island, in search of our lost mail, by the way of the portage. In the evening it returns and brings us a Black Rock mail by the schooner Hope & Govt. Gore to the 28th August. Gen'l Porter requests me to take charge of the party and allow Maj'r Fraser to return by perform- ing the duties he was charged with. Maj'r Fraser concludes to go to Drummond's in the morning to take passage in the Hope, and we prepare our return letters for him at night. I write home & to Gen'l Porter. 1 Monday, September 18. Clear and pleasant. Messrs. Bird, Steven- son and Best go to the Base Line cutting on the N. point of Drummond's to complete same. Maj'r Fraser takes leave of us, for Black Rock. He goes to the Post on Drummond's to take passage in a schooner there, The Hope. I go to the Indian village with DeRussy & the Captain to bring away a bark canoe bought yesterday. Find but few women & children, and no men about the village. We learned that they had gone 1 These letters are missing from the Mss. of General Porter and of Major Delafield, in the National Archives. BOOK SEVEN 313 off to dig and carry away their potatoes to their hiding places. They all have secret deposits for their potatoes, to prevent others stealing them. They mostly carried them away in their canoes to the neighboring islands, where they bury them. The half breed Indian of whom the canoe was bought refused to sell it, because we had not sent for it yesterday when bought. It was an Indian bargain. We afterwards learned that this fellow was a noted scoundrel. The disappointment placed us under the necessity of employ- ing a Canadian found in the potato fields to take us back to the schooner. He would not go without a gift of four pounds of pork. About noon we were gratified by the arrival of the Indian messenger, dispatched 10 days ago with our mail from Drummond's, in search of us. The poor fellow had encountered very boisterous weather and been down the Manitou as far as 2nd channel. Had found the Confiance, where he got instructions and came to us here. I paid him a dollar per day for his services and gave him provisions for his return. Upon asking where was his home he said in his canoe. He had no residence more permanent. His squaw & three brats and gun, & fish spear, were his companions. He became troublesome after a gift of some whiskey, and came on board oftener than I found his society agreeable. We gave him pork, bread & whiskey & he encamped opposite the vessel, to rest himself until the morrow, when he assured us he would come for another outfit for his voyage. Tuesday, September 19th. Morning cloudy. Sharp frost at day break, wind N.W. About 9 o'clock Clinton, the steward, returns from Drummond's. He states that The Hope got under way yesterday eve- ning, with Maj'r Fraser as passenger. He learned thro' the Master of The Hope that Govr. Cass had returned from his expedition, the Master having seen his canoes in Saint Clair River on his passage up. The Indians bring us fish, black bass and pike taken in gill nets; a great treat, so long since we have met with any. They preferred barter- ing them for pork & bread, to a sale for money. Mr. DeRussy goes in the afternoon to join Bird & Stevenson & Best. Capt. Gillett and myself are left alone on board the schooner, and were it not for the fortunate receipt of our mail it would feel lonesome and tedious to be confined in the vessel, without a boat to land us on the shores, even in this Bay of Portaganasing, where Lake Huron has surely more charms of soil, scenery, and I should add society than in any other place I have yet visited, save the town of Mackina. And this town as described by a gentleman of Gov. Cass' party in his letter as published should pass for a town of far more consequence for its build- ings, jurisprudence & society than my observations could discover. Wednesday, September 20th. We are obliged to pass our time on 314 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY board the vessel, our boats being all absent on duty. No Indians come near us 'til noon, being all engaged digging, carrying away, and hiding their potatoes. Endeavor to employ an Indian with his canoe for my use in the absence of the boats. One promises to come to me, but does not. At noon, a canoe with six Indians, all young men but one, comes alongside. The young men are painted with black color. They bring some birch bark baskets, neatly made by their squaws, that I had en- gaged. These Indians are a good natured, laughing crew. They shewed more curiosity than I ever witnessed among them. The petrifactions of fish & shells about the deck they instantly comprehended & were inquisi- tive to know and see all. I shewed the old man chlorite and told him it would make pipes. He instantly picked up a chissel and satisfied him- self by scratching it, at which he seemed much gratified, and evidently did not know the stone, altho' pipes are made of it by some of the natives and are to be had in this neighborhood. In the evening Mr. DeRussy returns in the skiff and soon afterwards, Mr. Stevenson in the Black Jack. Thursday, September 21. At 9 o'clock Mr. Bird in the Lady of the Lakes comes to the Red Jacket, having closed the survey on the N. side of Drummond's by connecting his work with that already accomplished by Mr. Thompson. The wind being ahead and a gale, we are pre- vented proceeding with the vessel to our next station. In the morning land at the Indian village. Find but few of the men there. The young men and women seemed pleased at our appearance, but the Indians generally shewed an unwillingness to have us come among them, or notice their manner of living, etc. It may be accounted for in this settlement partly thro' shame, their condition being low and miserable compared to others, and partly to the prevailing spirit among all Indians to seclude themselves from the whites. Among their squaws were three or four young ones, the daughters of British officers of the 49th formerly stationed upon St. Joseph's. They were much better looking than the others, and shewed their white parentage as much in their improved complexion, as partial European expression of face. In two instances we were told these girls were in the habit of taking husbands for the night; and only two of them in this settlement. The Indians do not allow prostitution among their squaws, and stern virtue is not a rare trait in the character of a Chippewa squaw. In domestic concerns the squaw has the greatest control. When the Indian is drunk the squaw is in terror, and obliged to submit to the will of the Indian. When sober, he seldom interferes with the wish of the squaw in the ordinary concerns about their huts. In the afternoon get under way with the vessel from near Porta- ganasing & run toward the harbor or Post on Drummond's Island. BOOK SEVEN 315 Steer in a straight line thro' the group of islands lying in this large bay, and come to anchor near the extreme point of the bay nearest the Post and about four miles distant. The water in this group of islands is from 5 to 7 fathoms. The land low and islands of beautiful appearance tho' small, generally round. On this part of Drummond's Island the land lies low toward the lake and looks more like tillable land than any we have seen on Lake Huron. The islands to be included however as part of the tillable land. Go on shore abreast of the vessel. The shore is of light-colored lime stone, stratified and full of the fossil shells productae. Some madrepo- rites are also found here. Our anchorage in this bay was a good soft bottom. The same should be said of our anchorage near the Indian village, and in our harbor at Thepsalon Island. Beautiful chain coral in high relief from the lime stone and favosites, with some new madre- porites, are the principal fossils of Drummond's Island. Friday, September 22. At sun rise get under way and proceed toward the harbor of Drummond's Island, where is the military post. The wind being ahead and light, and at the same time a heavy sea from the lake, our progress is slow, and we do not reach the harbor 'til 2 o'clock. Mr. Bird leaves the vessel with his boat's crew before we arrive off the harbor, and goes to the Point of the Detour to observe Mr. Thompson's station there, and place such others, as he may judge necessary. After we come to anchor Mr. Stevenson goes to the islands S.E. of the Post, and around the S.E. point of Drummond's. He found that neighborhood full of shoals and reefs of rocks, so that the naviga- tion for small boats was dangerous in the heavy sea that was then running. He does not get back to the vessel 'til late in the evening. Mr. Bird returns from the Detour, having arranged his stations there. Mr. Stevenson brings home some conservations of shells and some madreporites; also the compound of epidote and amianthus before noticed. Saturday, September 23. Cold, cloudy and high wind. Messrs. Bird and Stevenson spend the day establishing their stations on the several islands & points of the harbor, and some distance down the East shore. I make an excursion to the islands in the harbor, and explore the shores for minerals. These islands afford nothing of interest. Are covered with large masses of water worn lime stone and occasionally a few, rounded silicious pebbles. The Drummond's Island shore is of more interest. The lime stones contain several varieties of shells, and many varieties of beautiful amygdaloids are found here. The minerals of this shore are of considerable interest, and their compound character remarkable. Epidote, amianthus, jasper, calcareous spar, and some others are strangely intermixed. The varieties are kept. 316 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Our contiguity to the settlement has added but little to the comforts of our table. We can get no fish, no fresh meat, no fresh butter at Drummond's. As a great favor one of the residents procures us some mutton from a neighbor. When a sheep is killed it is distributed amongst the few who have animals to kill in their turn, and replaced when the neighbor kills. They would not sell us the mutton, but one of the par- ties permitted our steward to take his proportion, promising to return it, or rather its equivalent, when he killed. Some rain, a high North West wind and blustering cold day. Yesterday also gave ample demon- stration of an Equinoctial storm. At night we are all assembled on board the Red Jacket and make ourselves very comfortable. Before we retire, we take our last repast upon Cake and Preserves. Cake and Pre- serves in this remote corner of the boisterous Lake Huron; in this land of savages, rocks and sterility; in a party of pork-eaters and whisky- drinkers. How strange, how marvellous, & it might be added, how ridiculous it would appear! But it was really so and we feasted on the delicate repast, each one no doubt recalling to memory in every plum or cherry some happy thought of home, & in every cake some domestic recollection. Such was the scene & such the feeling, and we indulged in anticipating the pleasures we fancied at no distant period. The whistling of the winds thro' the rigging and the wintry appearance of the Heavens, gave reason to our anticipations. This however was to be the last of our little feasts of this nature. We had two or three before, and were indebted to the wife of Mr. DeRussy for them all. She had sent him these things by the steam boat to Mackina; and perhaps we relished them the more from the double consideration that the fondness of the wife and the fidelity of Indian messengers had overcome so many difficulties to transport them hither. They were brought by the Indian who was charged with our mail from Drummond's. He had been greatly exposed to weather during a 10 days' search for us & the cake had undergone its share of ablutions in the lake. Sunday, September 24. Cold, cloudy, with some rain and a gale of wind that increases at night, S.S.W. & at night N. Remain on board the Red Jacket during the morning. At dinner receive a letter from John D. Jun'r 1 announcing his arrival in N. York. It was brought by an Indian from the Confiance, but how it came there did not learn. In the afternoon Mr. Bird and myself go on shore to look at the settlement of Drummond's Island. It consists of perhaps 15 houses tolerably comfortable, made of logs and white washed; and of two 1 John Delafield Jr., older brother of Major Delafield, had just returned from many years residence in England. BOOK SEVEN 317 stories, upon one straight street. The officers have comfortable quarters detached from each other, of similar construction to the citizens'. There are two companies, with a Major in command. The right of the part of the bay where is the settlement, is occupied by the military, and is terminated by a small island that is connected by a bridge. Upon this little island (which is mostly covered with pines), is a fanciful little hut. It is upon the point of the island and enclosed within white pickets. A deep piazza under which you see two Gothic shaped win- dows, and a front of green paint, having at a little distance a romantic appearance. Upon approach however you perceive that it is an old log hut with a bark roof, that has been fixed up in this manner by some officer of taste. On the left of the bay are the citizens' dwellings. The settlement is here terminated by an inlet that runs two miles into the island, which is here about 200 ft. wide. The water has no current. The inlet is rather remarkable, resembling in shape a river. Upon the point commence the Indian huts and wigwams. There are perhaps 30 of them along the bank of this inlet. I look'd into many of them. They were filthy and generally crowded with squaws and children. The squaws were principally engaged in making hampers in which they carry potatoes &c. They much resemble the hampers or sacks in which sugar is imported, and are made of the rushes dried and flattened. The island just here is extremely bare and rocky. The ground is cov- ered with lime stone rounded rocks, of all dimensions, too close even to plant a potato between them. In small patches that have been cleared for gardens, the soil appears rich & strong. Up the inlet there appears to be some better land. The fact however that they cannot grow upon the whole island sufficient hay to keep the few cows they have, is indic- ative of a similar barrenness throughout. They get hay from St. Joseph's and it costs them about 15 dollars a ton to stack it upon this island. The harbor of Drummond's Island is the best probably upon Lake Huron. It is a deep bay, having its mouth well protected by a cluster of islands between two of which are good channels. There are reefs off these islands, and it is not advisable for strangers to make this harbor without a pilot. We did so upon our first arrival with safety, but have now learned the dangers we accidentally avoided. Monday, September 25. Gold and clear, wind N.N.W., high. Messrs. Bird and Stevenson spend the first part of the day measuring a Base Line in front of the barracks. Mr. Bird then occupies the several stations around him, and in the course of the day occupies with the theodolite all his stations within the two points of the harbor, and Mr. DeRussy delineates the shores and the islands in the harbor for the same distance. In the afternoon accompany Mr. DeRussy and peram- bulate the East shore of the harbor from opposite the s^ttl^m^nt to near 318 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY the outer point, a distance of three miles or more including the bays. There are several bays within the bay that forms the harbor of Drum- mond's, and some of them run half a mile into the island, and have a good depth of water and anchorage. The approach to them however is not so safe as to the village, on account of rocks and reefs. This shore is altogether of rounded masses of lime stone much water worn, the most uninteresting walk that I have taken in this lake for its extent. On the lake shore however around the point, Mr. Stevenson found a variety of interesting minerals that are retained. We all get to the vessel about sun set. Tuesday, September 26. A gale of wind from the S.S.W. prevents any of the party engaging in the work of the survey (from the vessel) this day. At noon a schooner heaves in sight off the harbor under close reefed mainsail and jib. It was thought she wished to make this port, but was prevented on account of the reefs which are considered danger- ous in the very heavy sea then running. She runs by and proceeds to the Sault, or makes a harbor among the islands North of Drummond's or at St. Joseph's. I remain on board the Red Jacket throughout the day. Wednesday, September 27. The morning cloudy, clears off by 10 o'clock and remains clear and calm throughout the day and favorable for the labors of the survey. Messrs. Bird and Stevenson leave us early in the morning in their respective boats, provisioned for an absence of several days. I go on shore with my gun and ramble back of the village. Find a few snipe. The island is very rough and stony. The Indians grow some potatoes, and nothing else is cultivated near the village. In the middle of the island I am told there is good land, covered with maple and that generally the shores for a mile or two upon Lake Huron are stony and very barren but that the interior is good tillable land. In the small gardens about the Post they raise melons that are ripe at this time. Grass, corn, and potatoes are also cut, gathered, dug and taken in at this time. The grass is now stacking upon the island. In the afternoon I again go on shore and take tea and spend evening with Mrs. Solomon, a lady I met in the steam boat, who, knowing I was here, sent me invitations to visit her. She is of the Jewish faith and a very clever and kind woman. She gives me a plate of Seneca grass handsomely braided by an Indian, and a little Indian mat to add to my stock of curiosities. Considerable maple sugar is made on Drum- mond's Island. The centre of the island is not known to the villagers and they have only penetrated but about two leagues to make sugar. From a height back of the settlement and parallel with the inlet you have a fine view of the harbor. You look over the several points that BOOK SEVEN 319 form the bays on the East side of the harbor which have the appearance of so many little Lakes. These added to the islands in the harbor afford a pretty view which much resembles the view of the Harbor of Boston from their State House, but not so distant or prolonged. There are two portages across the island both bringing you within a few miles of the Indian village, Portaganasing, say 5 and 7, when around it is about 18 miles. Thursday, September 28. Clear and pleasant, temperate and light wind, another favorable day for the survey. At noon Mr. Bird comes in to the harbor, having finished his work in the neighborhood of the Detour and connected that point with Drummond's Island, carrying the survey about five miles on the American shore beyond the Detour Point West. He set off after dinner to join Mr. Stevenson, who is carry- ing the work down the shore of Drummond's Island, East side of the harbor, toward the point where it was left, when we sailed for the North of the island. Mr. DeRussy accompanies him in the skiff to delineate as they survey. I dine with Mrs. Solomon. She gives a good dinner for Lake Huron: soup, a trout, roast duck, cellary, apples &c, the last from Sandwich. No apples grown on this island. There are a few dwarf trees, but none yet in bearing. It is in the Autumn that the Indians come in to trade their articles and receive their presents. In some seasons they collect here 1,500 & 2,000 strong. Each Indian draws two days' rations besides his presents. They are principally Chippewas and Ottowas. Formerly other Nations came here from the Mississippi, but they are now taken care of at more neighboring Posts. In truth the Americans have brought the Indians within our own Territories to trade more generally with us than they did a few years back. The white fish of Lake Huron begin to appear. The Sault St. Marie is the great fishing ground. Fish have not been taken there yet this season. The Indians have a mode of taking white fish in the rapids of the Sault with what we call a scoop net. They take several at a time. The whites have not the skill. The white fish do not take the hook, are caught in gill nets and seines. The salmon trout & pike take the hook trowling. The Indians take them all with the spear. Mrs. Solomon tells me it cost them £ 60 Hab. to carry away the stone from their little garden lot. Their garden is about half an acre. Wages on Drummond's Island one dollar and a half per day. Friday, September 29. Clear and temperate, wind light, S.E. Remain on board the Red Jacket until afternoon, when I land on the right of the village and traverse the shore to a point opposite the Detour. It is all lime stone. Saw nothing of interest, save some Indian graves. A 320 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY pile of logs the length of the corpse was laid over the grave and kept there by ranges of stones collected around them. The body was but just under the surface. At the head was a stake 5 ft. high, and upon it some marks in red paint or ochre that were unintelligible to me. They were mostly crosses and cyphers. The smaller graves, as of children had roofs of bark over them. Shortly after my return, our old Indian messenger, who bro't the mail comes alongside in his canoe with a fine mess offish, white fish and trout. He sold us a large white fish that weighed after it was cleaned 7 lb. 11 oz. (it would weigh 10 lbs. before cleaning) for 25 cents. This was the largest white fish that I have seen or heard of. He gave us some handsome salmon trout, the whole lot weighing after it was cleaned 23 lbs., for 75 cts. and was well pleased with his bargain. The Indians always clean the fish as they take them, or rather their squaws do it. By cleaning they mean taking out the entrails, the scales are left on. Saturday, September 30. Clear and temperate, light wind, S.E. Nearly summer heat. The Indians bring plenty offish in the morning as they return from the lake. They go out in the afternoon, and fish along the shores of the island during the night, bringing in their fish in the morning. Salmon trout are the most numerous: white fish decidedly the most delicate and choice. A bark canoe comes in, good style, with a Canadian crew and full chorus, bringing a traveller. I send to learn the news, and our boat returns with our mails from below via Mackina, a most welcome return from Mackina, for which we are indebted to Mr. Prior who brought them, and Mr. Crooks who forwarded them. Among them was a paper dated 12th September. It was in Mackina on the 28th, so that from Albany to Mackina it was 16 days. In the evening our three boats return to the vessel, from their respec- tive destinations thro' the past weeks. The gentlemen describe the shore of Drummond's below the harbor as indented with deep bays, some of them containing several islands. They describe one good harbor, but the entrance to it is rather narrow. The bottoms of these bays are generally mud, and clams are numerous in the beds of some of them. Fish are taken there more plentifully than at the Post. Sunday, October 1 . Clear and temperate, wind S.E. All of the party on board. Mr. Bird observes for latitude & makes the Post of Drum- mond's Island to be in 45°58 / . In the afternoon ramble to the rear of the village and bring away some favosite, sometimes called petrified wasps nests, and several very good reteporites (chain coral). This species of madreporite was so labelled by LeSeur according to Eaton. My specimens are good, having BOOK SEVEN 321 the walls of the cells raised half an inch from the stone. These are the only specimens found at this part of Drummond's Island of interest. I should have added also the arbo-madreporite, of which I have some good specimens: so delicate however from their branches that I despair of transporting them safely. Some of the gentlemen of the garrison have found upon this island conservations of the back bones of very large fish handsomely defined. Are said to resemble the shark's bones in size and joints &c. These several specimens are found on the upland, and usually at an elevation of 30 ft. from the lake. They prove to be new species of madrepores for descriptions of which see paper by Dr. Bigsby in London Geo. Soc. Trans. Monday, October 2. Clear and temperate, wind light, S.E. Mr. DeRussy and Mr. Best go to the shore East of the harbor to delineate and traverse between the several stations occupied there, as far down as to the place where the work was left, when we conducted it around the other side of the island. This section of survey is now completed except the above delineation, and we wait their return only to sail for St. Clair. The crew on board have been employed this day resetting rigging and making preparations about the vessel for our voyage over the lakes. Mr. Stevenson and myself take a walk back of the settlement and bring away some more good specimens of reteporite, &c, i.e. corallium catenulatum et reticulatum of same (chain coral). Tuesday, October 3. Clear and pleasant. Remain on board the vessel. Make some preparations for sailing from Lake Huron. Put up a box of minerals containing about one hundred and fifty specimens. In the evening go on shore to take leave of Mrs. Solomon, my only acquaintance on Drummond's Island. Take tea with her, and return to the vessel. In the afternoon Messrs. DeRussy and Best return from their delinea- tion and traverse below the harbor, having finished the labors of this station altogether. We give Captain Gillett notice of our readiness to sail from this lake. He has the vessel fitted in all things, and we only wait a wind to turn our backs upon the inhospitable harbor of Drummond's Island; and the cold waters of Lake Huron. The Comdg. Officer of the Garrison, Majr. Winnet, was absent during my visit at this time. MEM: The schooner Confiance and a crew of 15 persons inclusive of Master and one boy, is a public vessel and King's Seamen. Is commanded by Mr. Grant, Lieut, in H.R.M. Navy. Mr. Grant has instructions from the Navy Dept. of the Provinces, which are 322 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY private. Among other things he is engaged extensively in taking soundings. His crew are exclusively employed in charge of the Confiance and not subject to the orders of the party on survey. BOOK EIGHT October 4, 1820 to October 2g, 1820 Wednesday, October 4, 1820. Clear and temperate, Thermo, at 12 o'clock 6i°, wind S.E. We get under way with the schooner Red Jacket, from Drummond's Island harbor at 10 a.m. The whole party on board; having completed the survey of this section of Lake Huron. Beat about with a head wind until midnight, when it changes to W.N.W., and we run on our course at a good rate. The fore part of the night thunder and lightning without rain or wind. A heavy sea, several seasick. Two alarms on deck, the one when the change of wind struck us, in the shape of a squall, and the other when our boat in tow was thrown against the stern of the schooner by a heavy swell, made the night bustling and uncomfortable. Want of confidence in the Master made it necessary for us to keep a good look out, & Mr. Stevenson being something of a sailor, proved very useful on more than one occasion. Thursday, October 5. Pursue our voyage with a strong fair wind from the W.N.W., laying our course for the St. Clair. At day light found ourselves nearly abreast of Middle Island. In the afternoon the wind dies away, and we lay off Sagina Bay tossed by a heavy sea, most un- mannerly, without more than sufficient wind to give the vessel steering way. Look forward to another night with the gloomy prospect of a head wind, and a sickening swell of the lake. Before we turn in however a strong fair wind comes from the W.N.W. and instead of retiring with gloom, we anticipate the sight of the St. Clair at day break. Friday, October 6. Clear, fresh wind, W.N.W. At day break dis- cover the American shore on our starboard bow and only know that we had run across Sagina Bay in the night and pass'd it some distance, Sagina Bay or Point aux Barques being out of sight. Run down the shore at the rate of 7 or 8 miles, and enter the St. Clair at 2 o'clock p.m., having made our passage from Drummond's Island in 52 hours. The Comdg. Officer of Fort Gratiot (Mr. Webb) boards us off the fort. He informs us that the Confiance had pass'd down the river the same morn- ing and was bound direct for Black Rock. The Confiance grounded opposite the fort. We come to anchor a mile below the fort. Soon discover a sail com- 324 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY ing down the lake and prepare a letter to Genl. Porter 1 and another for home and put them on board the vessel. She proves to be the Jackson, from Mackana for Detroit. Visit Fort Gratiot with Lieut. Webb. The fort is square with four bastions and commands the pass, which is not to exceed 800 ft. at the entrance. There is at present a detachment of 22 men only at Fort Gratiot, and a belief exists that the Post will be reduced. It is a solitary Post for a command and I see no good purpose for maintaining this Post. Saturday, October 7. Get under way from Fort Gratiot after sun rise and beat down the river, intending to come to at a place called The Settlement, twenty two miles from the fort. Lieut. Webb accompanies us. The River du Loup comes into the St. Clair one mile below the fort. It is said to rise a hundred miles back. There is a mill seat twenty miles up the river, improved, the only one in the neighborhood. We are again delighted with the beauties of this river. Its low banks, good soil and good timber, width, current and windings, all contribute to its superiority over most others, for many advantages besides beauty. Come to at the settlement at one o'clock, and send on shore a tent where it is intended to write up the notes and prepare the section maps of the survey above, before we return. The settlers here are mostly Americans. Their clearings are confined to the shores of the river, nor is the interior of the country known to them. There are about a dozen houses. We get very fine butter, good chickens and common vegetables and think ourselves feasting upon luxuries. So long had we been deprived of these things, that the change of diet seemed like a new era in our expedition. Sunday, October 8. Cloudy, wind Easterly. After breakfast, cross over to the Canada shore. Opposite the settlement is an Indian estab- lishment of half a dozen wigwams, of the Chippewa's. They have several acres of land cleared and cultivated. Corn is their principal crop. These Indians are more comfortably settled than most. They seem to have plenty to eat, and about their cabins were good imple- ments of husbandry, and pots & kettles, that denoted some approach toward civilization. The land on this (the Canada shore) is very good, soil black loam, and no stone to be found. On the shore found some madreporites that I thought worth retain- ing. This is a good hunting country. An Indian bro't in this morning a fine black bear, and a black fox. Deer are numerous. The river is well supplied with fish. The salmon trout and whitefish have not yet appeared, but the herrings now taken on the St. Clair are delicious 1 These letters do not appear in the Porter or in the Delafield collection in the National Archives. BOOK EIGHT 325 fish, and, next to the whitefish, I prefer them to any I have eaten on these waters. There are three rivers that empty into the St. Clair on the American side. The River du Loup, or Black River, the St. Clair Creek or River, and the Belle Riviere. The River du Loup, called by some the Black, comes into the St. Clair one mile below Fort Gratiot. A hunter now in the fort says he has ascended this river 60 miles, thinks he can ascend it one hundred, and is now about to set off on a hunt of that distance. There is 6 ft. water at its mouth and it is about 200 ft. wide. The St. Clair Creek is 12 miles below the fort, and is navigable for batteaux 9 miles up. Beyond that could get no information. The same may be said of the Belle Riviere, which is 22 miles below the fort. Monday, October 9. Messrs. Bird and Stevenson busily employed mapping. Walk down the shore among the settlers. Meet an old man by the name of Thorn. He has been on this river 36 years. Previous to his residence here he was a navigator upon the lakes in 1 767. At that time, he states, there was one vessel upon Lake Erie, and one upon Lake Huron, and no others. That there was none upon Lake Superior but that he had seen the wreck of a vessel there, said to have been built by the French. That these vessels were employed exclusively transporting King's provisions. That the speculators in furs at that time got furs from the Indians, and took them away in batteaux. Mr. Thorn states that the settlers upon this river were never un- healthy until the last and present season. The diseases are remittent fevers and agues and fevers. He ascribes the sickness much to the poor living of the settlers; and thinks more meat is eaten in his family than in any six taken together on the river. I think it more probable that the foul water they drink has some agency in it. The shores are mixed with sand and blue clay, and whenever the water is disturbed, it becomes very muddy. They have logs projecting twenty ft. into the river, but do not take care to reach the clear water. This cause however is not more satisfactory than Mr. Thorn's; and both of them are irreconcilable with his statement, that sickness has prevailed the two past summers only. One of the men shoots a bird that upon examination proves unknown to us all. It is of the duck kind, beautifully feathered, with remarkable feet, not webbed like the duck. Skin the bird and lay it by to dry, in- tending to take it home for our naturalists. In the evening board the schooner Decatur, bound to Mackina. Get a Washington paper of 1 6th Sepr. Tuesday, October 10. Storm of wind and rain, wind N.E. Ther. at noon 52 . On waking this morning, the preparation or skin of my beautiful 326 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY bird, that I had carefully placed by, was brought to me defaced and torn by rats and mice. This trifling occurrence as it would seem to some, made my waking rather sad, which added to the storm that delays our work, and necessarily detains us one day longer removed from all society, and I might add nearly all comfort, gives to the dawn- ing of the day rather a heavy aspect. The whole party remains on board the vessel throughout the day. With talk, books, pens & paper, we con- trive to pass the day and, notwithstanding my early croaking and fore- boding, pass it on my part pleasantly enough wanting little and having but little to want. Wednesday, October 1 1 . Cloudy, high wind with squalls through- out day. Temp, at noon 53 . Remain on board the Red Jacket. All the gentlemen engaged plotting and mapping. Mr. Webb, Lieutenant, takes his leave for his command at Fort Gratiot. The schooners Decatur and Huron that were wind bound yesterday in sight proceed up the river. The St. Clair River is this day very thick and muddy. So foul as to be unpleasant to drink, owing principally in my opinion to the dis- turbed dirt brought down the three rivers that empty into the St. Clair above this, during the heavy storm of rain and wind of yesterday, and in part to the rise of waters, the shores washing away the clay and loose dirt. Thursday, October 12. The party engaged as yesterday. In the morning a schooner heaves in sight bound down. Board her. She proves to be the Beaver of Presque Isle, Capt. White. Had encountered stormy weather upon Lake Huron, and upon Lake Michigan had been in a bad storm, that caused them to throw overboard their deck load of whisky and salt. Lost an anchor and had been to Green Bay and back without one. Was also in want of provisions. Offered a supply and the Capt. brought the Beaver alongside the Red Jacket and made fast. Capt. W T hite, and his sister who accompanied, remained to dine. Sup- plied them with pork, bread and whisky, and in the afternoon they proceed on their voyage. Write to Gen'l Porter by the Beaver. Write by same vessel to the Secretary of State 1 informing him of the survey effected upon Lake Huron and of our departure, also of our intended return to Black Rock in a few days, and of our being at present em- ployed upon the St. Clair, &c, &c. Direct this letter to be mailed at Detroit. Friday, October 13. The party engaged as yesterday. Set out on a hunting expedition on the American shore. Range the woods some dis- tance back without success. The land is flat, soil black loam on clay. 1 These letters do not appear in Porter's Mss. in the National Archives. BOOK EIGHT 327 No stone — wood, oak, white and red — hickory, elm, ash, white and black, soft maple. Finding no game return to the shore and go to the Belle Riviere & ascend it about a mile. The river is about one hundred ft. wide & muddy. There is a French settlement on its south shore of eight or ten families. Their huts are more neat and comfortable and as farmers they seemed more provident and better off than those on the St. Clair. Was much pleased with the cleanliness, politeness and indus- try of the settlers. I visited every house I pass'd, and found them uni- formly clean & comfortable and the women engaged in various ways of domestic industry. The men were out on their farms. The French settlers here are complained of as idle and without enterprise. My own experience however satisfied me that they are not idle; and that altho their views are confined and not so speculative as the American and English settlers they are such as to make them and their families more comfortable & happy. They perhaps do not labor to pursue their gains much beyond their present necessities, but they are more intent upon doing this much than the other settlers. There is among them more of pleasure and less of gain, more of content but less of information, more of uniformity of livelihood and less of enterprise. Unfortunately in each house I found some person sick, and generally a female. The clearings extend about 4 miles up the Belle River as they told me. They do not clear further back than J^ of a mile. The water of the river was so foul that it would alone generate disease. Some of the French girls were spinning wool, an unusual occupation in this part of the country. Many of the people were dining upon raccoons, that are numerous here and good eating when fat. Saturday, October 14. Remain on board the Red Jacket through- out day. The party engaged with the maps as yesterday. Conclude to sail from the St. Clair tomorrow. Make all necessary arrangements thro the steward &c. and in the evening Mr. Bird gets his tent on board that he had used for the working of the maps, and we are in readiness to sail for home. Sunday, October 15. At sun rise clear, calm and cold. Sometime after sun rise saw ice on the decks, the first that I had seen this season; altho no doubt there had been much in quiet places. The woods shew their Autumnal tints everywhere. We get under way and cross the flats of the St. Clair (the mouth of the river) about two o'clock; grounded for a short time; the channel is very narrow say 150 to 200 ft. at the outlet that is now used. The old ship channel which is the middle channel is no longer navigable for schooners. At the mouth of the river saw flocks of very large white swans. They are numerous at this end of St. Clair. The place is suited to them because of the shallow waters. There is a small stream empties 328 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY in here called by the French the Cigne Riviere. The wind rises in the afternoon and we run thro' St. Clair Lake at a good rate. Enter the Detroit River at dusk and come to anchor off Detroit, about 9 o'clock p.m. Remain on board the vessel. Monday, October 16. Clear, Tempe. at noon, 55 . Send on shore all the tents and Marquee, most of the camp equipage and other articles not now wanted. The tents are stored in the public store for military equipage and the other articles in the Commissary's store and are received there by the politeness of the officers. Make a variety of minor arrangements. Call on Gen'l McComb & family, Gov. Cass & family, Mr. & Mrs. Jones, Major & Mrs. Biddle, Mrs. Bellew and the gentlemen of the garrison. Have some difficulty in declining the hospitalities of these friendly people, but feel under the necessity of so doing and at three o'clock p.m. get under way from Detroit. The wind being very- light, and in the evening calm, come to opposite Grosse Isle for the night. Tuesday, October 1 7. Get under way in the Red Jacket from near head of Grosse Isle about 7 o'clock. The morning being foggy and calm, prevented an earlier departure. Having a skiff belonging to the British party and a Marquee and theodolite in possession of Mr. Stevenson that were to be left at Amherstburgh Maiden, Messrs. Bird, Stevenson and myself set off in the Lady of the Lakes towing the skiff and row there before the arrival of the Red Jacket. Deposit the before named articles in the public or King's store. Stop'd in some of the shops and purchased a curious Indian pipe made of a buck's horn, with stem fancifully carved and colored; also a beaver's skin and otter's skin both well dressed and perfect, so that they might be set up, for which three articles I paid six dollars. The rage for Indian curiosities amongst the strangers that visit the upper country causes them to be held by the shop keepers at a high price. This late steam boat party consisting in part of the officers that com- posed the Court Martial for the trial of Col. Smith had bought them up, as I was told in the shops. Return to the vessel. Below Maiden Col. Hawkins of the 70th comes off in his little bark canoe to see us. It is due to this gentleman to note his uniform friendly politeness wherever we have met. Enter Lake Erie with a head wind and remain beating about between Miami Bay and Canada shore until dark. Wednesday, October 18. At day break find ourselves about eight miles from Put-in-Bay, having passed a very uncomfortable night from a heavy head wind and sea and the vessel making bad work at beating. At sun rise Messrs Bird, Stevenson, DeRussy and myself set off in The Lady to go in search of a locality of strontian on the main shore, that Mr. DeRussy had discovered the last season, and from which were ob- BOOK EIGHT 329 tained some beautiful chrystals. The vessel was becalmed so that we were enabled to leave her. Land on the main shore opposite Moss Island, and find a place corresponding with Mr. DeRussy's description of the locality, but after a diligent search are obliged to leave there without discovering the strontian, much to the disappointment of us all. On our return however we land on the side of Moss Island and discover a vast mine of this rare & beautiful mineral. It is scattered in almost all the rocks on this side of the island, but about the centre where the rock is about 30 ft. high, and half-way up the rock, is a solid stratum of strontian in chrystals, which stratum is three feet thick. Its depth we could form no estimate of, but the vein seemed to be parallel with superincumbent (i.e. horizontal) rocks. In working a little in this mine you come to cavities, and these cavities are filled with splendid chrystals all of them translucent & some of them beautifully transparent and iridescent. They were of no uniform shape or size. The chrystals would weigh from half a pound to four pounds, and we found broken pieces of chrystals that must have weighed entire much more. My largest chrystal is six inches long and three and a half wide. Some are in tables and some in prisms, but their variety too great to attempt a description hastily. The strontian is massive, in groupes of chrystals, in detached chrystals and fibrous. Is white blue and now and then tinged with green, and sometimes a little yellow appears upon the white that is transparent. We brought away several large masses of the great vein, where it runs into the fibrous variety. One of these masses weighed about 70 weight, and with proper tools there would have been no difficulty in obtaining a ton weight in one mass. These large masses however were not suffi- ciently compact to support their great weight. My specimens will show every variety and size of this interesting mineral. The discovery of this mine of strontian amply compensated for our day's labor and our previous disappointment. We returned to the vessel with a heavy load, and found her at anchor amongst the Bass Islands in a calm. Altho' we had made so fortunate a discovery and enriched ourselves with good specimens, upon reflection I felt chagrined that opportunity had not offered for more minute research. It was upon our return to the vessel in the afternoon, after a fruitless search throughout the morning on the main shore, for the lost mine, that we touch'd at Moss Island. We landed upon the spot where huge chrystals and huge masses of strontian hung over us in all directions. Our first sight was sufficient, and some time was spent, before the best was discovered, and in truth so little time was left us, that of the best we can say nothing. There are still cavities filled with beautiful chrystals of unknown dimensions that we only know are there. Of what we brought away and saw immediately around us, we can alone speak. There still remain virgin charms for 330 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY the mineralogist at Moss Island, and my own appetite is only increased for another gust the next time I may cross Lake Erie. On our arrival at the vessel we took the small boats on board, and lay in readiness to improve the first wind that offered for Black Rock. Thursday, October 19. Get under way from the Bass Islands with a strong, fair wind at day break, that continues to increase throughout the day. Run on our course at the rate of ten miles an hour. At sun set shorten sail, and during the night run under a double reefed foresail only to avoid over running our port. The atmosphere rather hazy. Friday, October 20. At day break find ourselves near the foot of the lake. Wind still a gale. Set all sail and come to off Black Rock at 8 o'clock a.m., having run from Put-in-Bay in twenty-nine hours. Mrs. Porter kindly invites me to make her house my home which I do. Saturday, October 21. Spend the day principally in packing up minerals and my baggage. Prepare 4 boxes of minerals and 1 box of Indian curiosities, and in the evening deliver them to a waggoner by the name of Smith, directed to the care of Trotter and Douglass, Albany. Give to Gen'l Porter a barrel of minerals consisting of my extra collec- tion, with some that were too large and heavy for transportation. Sunday, October 22. Remain with General Porter at Black Rock. Explain to him the geography of the North end of Lake Huron; our claim to Drummond's Island; the surveys we had effected, and the surveys remaining to be effected. He agrees with me that there was no necessity for much more work upon Lake Huron. The next season it is contemplated to survey Lake St. Clair and River. Add to this perhaps some further information to be had of Lake Huron, that should not consume much time, and a little work left unfinished by Mr. Thompson on Lake Erie, that he contemplates finishing this Winter, and the sur- veys under the Sixth Article will be done, extending from parallel of N. Latitude 45 on the Saint Lawrence to the water communication between Lakes Huron and Superior. General Porter thought that their surveys might be finished by the middle of the next Summer, and that the Board might proceed there- after to decide upon the Line thro' that extent. He explains to me his views concerning Bois Blanc Island in the Detroit. This island is of con- siderable interest as it regards the navigation of the Detroit River. He also confides to me the preliminaries that had been agreed upon be- tween Mr. Ogilvy and himself to reg-ulate such decisions. General Porter submits these matters for investigation and reflection. He intimates a wish that I repair to Washington in the course of the Winter, and take with me the accounts of the commission, which I BOOK EIGHT 331 consent to do — I address a letter to the General, 1 upon the subject of the late Agent's accounts for the purpose of reducing the same to a cor- respondence, which letter he promises to answer soon. In the afternoon I take leave of my friends at Black Rock, and Gen- eral Porter and myself ride to Buffalo, where we take seats in the stage for the East, and lodge preparatory to an early ride in the morning. Mr. Stevenson this day visited a stone quarry eight miles from Black Rock on the main road East, belonging to Judge or Squire Hopkins, from whence he brought some splendid organic remains more particu- larly beautiful and rare madreporites entirely raised from the blocks of stone. Regret the want of opportunity to visit this spot, but note the same for future recollections. Monday, October 23. Leave Buffalo at 4 o'clock in the morning and lodge at Avon, Gennessee River. Tuesday, October 24. Leave Gennessee River at 4 o'clock in the morning & lodge at Skeneateles. Wednesday, October 25. Leave Skeneateles at 4 o'clock in the morning and lodge in Utica. Snow throughout day and night. Find the Supreme Court sitting in Utica. They hold a term here for the first time. This arrangement was thought to be just inasmuch as the great and growing Western District had an equal claim to the Southern and Middle District to such an accommodation. Find the bar generally displeased with the plan and understood the bench to be still more so. The difference of opinion it is probable will bring about the plan of holding all their terms at one convenient place, say Albany. Have much difficulty in procuring a bed, the town being filled with lawyers and clients. Throw myself upon the mercy of my old friend, Mrs. Baggs, who procures a bed for me in a neighbor's house. Thursday, October 26. Leave Utica at 3 o'clock in the morning and lodge in Albany. Reach there by 7 p.m. Stop at Bamman's. His house as well kept and furnished as any hotel in the City of New York. Learn on arrival that the steam boat Paragon had just sunk, a few miles below Albany, by running upon a sunken log. Passengers and baggage safe. Am prevented by this accident continuing my journey with the same rapidity that I had proceeded thus far — Friday, October 27. Proceed from Albany to Troy to visit my friend Cushman, and wait the arrival of another steam boat. Saturday, October 28. Learn that the steam boat Chancellor 1 This letter does not appear under date Oct. 22, 1820, in either the Porter or the Delafield Mss. in the National Archives. But in the Porter collection a list dated Dec. 2, 1820, appears, with full accounts from Nov. 1, 181 7 to Nov. 10, 1820. This gives the names of the workers under Art. VI, and their salaries. 332 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Livingston will sail from Albany this afternoon at 4 o'clock. Visit the Troy Lyceum with Doctor Wells. Present him a piece of strontian from Strontian Island, Lake Erie. He very liberally presents me with several minerals that I had not. Leave Troy at 2 o'clock and proceed to the steam boat. We leave Albany at 5 p.m. and arrive in New York on the following morning at Y2 P a st 9 o'clock. Wm. Mulligan Esqr. of New York has in his possession an old map of N. America published Feby. 13, 1755 by Mitchell, and by direction of the Lord's Comr's for trade and plantations. The map has numerous inscriptions explaining dates of settlements, observations on latitude, &c. The following are extracts. "By a gross estimate of Gist, Pickawillany, Hockhoken and Lake Erie, should be 30 or 40 minutes of latitude South, than Charlevoix account of the entrance of Detroit / being in latitude 42°i2 / or 15' seems to make it. So Niagara is sup- posed to be in Lat. 43 , which would make Lake Erie too nigh the Ohio, according to our accounts of the distance between them, which however appear uncertain. Sandoski is eighty miles from the River Miami by accounts of those that have gone it, & others make that an Civahago further west." -(old map). "The first settlement of the English on the River Ohio, was at and about Alleghany 30 years ago (1725), since which they have extended their settle- ments from Shenango to Pickawillany (1755). Lat. of Oswego by L. Evans on old map is 42.1 7. Same map gives observations of lat. for Oswego. . 43°-5°j 22.17 & 2 min.; Montreal Lat. 45°.20.3o & 40 mm.; Niagara 43 & 44." Expenses from New York to New London, Norwich & Brooklyn. Passage from New York to New London $4.00 Porter at New London 13 Geo. Shepard for expenses at Norwich Plainfield and Brooklyn as per bill 8.56 A. Shepard at New London do do 8.75 Ferriage across Connecticut river 13 Stage fare from Saybrook to New Haven 2.50 Petty expenses on road from N London to Sayb' 19 Supper at New Haven and one Lodging 75 Stage from N Haven to N York 5. - Supper at & dinner at Stamford 1 . Porter at New York 25 31.26 22 Supper & lodg Buffalo 75 Octr 23. Stage fare from Buffalo to Canandaigua 2.50 " Change for baggage 25 BOOK EIGHT 333 Breakfast Dinner Supper & lodg Avon 24 Breakfast Bloomfield " Stage fare Canandaigua to Auburn " Auburn to Utica " Dinner & supper 25 Stage fare Utica to Schenectady 4.50 " Schenectady to Albany 81 Expense at Albany 3.50 Stm Boat to NYork 6. Baggage in NYork 40 Pd for extra baggage Buffalo 2.25 " at Canandaiga 1 . " " at Auburn 1 .62 " at Utica 1 .50 " at Schenectady 31 $6.68 To be charged to Theodolite - J. D. with Boundary Comr. on acct disbursements Octr 7. To wages pd Swan 52.00 Octr. 7 By cash rec'd of " " To wages pd Grant 52.00 T. Clinton 99. " " " To pd Swan for ex- " " By cash retained pense in search from Grants wages of Black Jack 25 for Major Fraser ... 3.75 " To do pd Grant do do " 16 Pd Fred. Cooper his wages 75 ;< 16 Cash pd Mr Bird 10 Cash advanced Litde .... 2 " Ned Welsh 1 To Mr Birds order on Jan. 1 7 Cash pd Dr Delavan 15 Capt Gilletts order on Setded. Jan 24.66 25 " By cash retained of Grants wages due Majr. Fraser. . . 7.75 " 16 deducted from Coop- ers wages as ad- vanced him by Majr. Fraser 5.50 Mem 5 dlls Acct DeRussy at Machina, Que: Whether paid me by Fraser? Sepr. 1 8th Pd Indian for bringing Mail to Portagananig &c $6. " Mem Col H. accts. Octr 4th due from Mr Bird on settlement of all accounts 2.29 Octr 4 due from Mr DeRussy on settlement of card acct 65 Octr 4th due from Mr Stevenson 49 334 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Octr 4th due from Capt Gillett on settlement of all accounts 11.07 Octr 4th due to Majr Fraser on settlement of card acct 6.92 Octr 3 from Capt Gillett 53 Octr 5 from Mr Bird 58 " " from Capt Gillett 1.38 " " from Mr Stevenson 6 Octr 6. from DeRussy 1 . " " " from Capt Gillett 1. 12 Octr 7. Pd Charles Hill for Capt Gillett 2. " Octr 7 from Capt Gillett 4.68 " " from Mr Stevenson 3500 1 .40 Octr 9 from Capt Gillett 30 " " to Mr Stevenson 1 .42 Octr 10 from Capt Gillett 71,2 et 1.42 Octr 1 3 to Mr Bird 46 " " to Capt Gillett 50 Octr 14 to Capt Gillett 1.18 " " to Mr Stevenson 20 " " from Mr Bird 28 Octr 1 3 to Capt Gillett 1 .20 " " from Mr Bird 24 Capt Gillett to accts advanced Charles Hill Octr 16 5. Mr Bird to Portage and his share Indian dispatch 3.35 Mr DeRussy his share to Indian dispatch and Portage J-57K Ferguson to Portage 75 BOOK NINE April 21, 1821 to July g, 1821 Saturday, April 21st, 1821. Left New York in the steam boat Chancellor Livingston on my tour to Black Rock to meet the Board of Commissioners. Agreeably to engagement join Count d'Aspremont in Albany who travels with me to Niagara. We visit our friends in Troy on Sunday, leave them on Monday, return to Albany and proceed to Schenectady. Spend the evening with Mr. Hudson, and Tuesday, 24th morning we proceed on our journey. Stop at the Little Falls of the Mohawk to shew Mr. d'Aspremont the canal operations there, and on Wednesday arrive in Utica. Thursday night lodge at Auburn, Friday night at Canandaigua, Saturday night at Batavia and Sunday night in Buffalo. Found the lake filled with ice, & to an extent unknown & passing off thro the Niagara Straits but slowly. Visit the Falls to accompany Mr. d'Aspremont going down on Tues- day the 1st May and return to Black Rock on Saturday the 5th May and take up my lodgings at Higgins'. Cross'd and recross'd under the Falls from Whitney's to Forsyth's, altho much ice was running. It breaks into small pieces before it reaches the chasm, so that it can be displaced by a boat in its passage across. Saturday, May 5th. Mr. Barclay, H.B.M. Commissioner, arrives at Buffalo. Sunday at Black Rock. Monday, May 7. Col. Hale, Agent of H.B.M. and Doctr. Bigsby, Ass't Sec'y to the Board arrive, and the Board meets pursuant to ad- journment. For the proceedings of the Board which occupied us until Friday the 10th, see Journal of Proceedings. 1 1 Turning to the Journal as this modest entry suggests, we find this entry under May 7, 1821, p. 42: "Joseph Delafield, Esquire, presented to the Board a Commission from the President of the United States appointing him Agent on the part of the American Government to perform the duties appertaining thereto, under the 6th and 7th articles of the Treaty of Ghent, which Commission was ordered to be entered on the Journal and is in the words following: ' James Monroe, President of the United States of America. To all who shall see these presents, greeting — Know Ye, that reposing special trust and confidence in the integrity and abilities of Joseph Delafield of New York, I have nominated and by and with the advice and consent of the Senate, do appoint him 336 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Thursday, May ioth. Col. Hale and Dr. Bigsby leave Black Rock and cross the river & Mr. Barclay proceeds to Buffalo on his return to N. York. Friday, May 1 1 th. Mr. Barclay leaves Buffalo on his return. Remain at Black Rock. Saturday, May 12th. Engaged the following men as boatmen at the following wages per month: Ned Welch 15 Fred'k Cooper 15 Isaac Fancher 13 Joshua Patch 13 Alexr. Stannard 1 o 1 Russel, Andrew B 13 Dennis Congden 13 Joseph Warner 13 David Lakeman 13 Sunday, May 13. Leave Black Rock for Detroit in the steam boat Walk in the Water, with Mr. Bird and Mr. Ferguson and nine men of my own party, and Doctor Bigsby of the British party. Touch at Erie in the night. Monday, May 14. Continue on our route. Touch at the mouth of Grand River, and in the night at Cleaveland. Tuesday, May 15. Proceed on our voyage. Arrive at Sandusky about 7 a.m. Doctr. Bigsby and self leave the Walk in the Water off Sandusky in our boat (the Lady of the Lakes) to visit Strontian Island, whilst she stops at Sandusky. Scarcely arrive at Strontian Island after a rough sail, when the steam boat heaving in sight makes it necessary for us to depart. Pass Amherstburgh about sun set, where we land Doctor Bigsby. Arrive at Detroit at 1 1 p.m. Wednesday, May 16. Make the necessary arrangements to proceed from Detroit. Hire a batteau, and load her with our stores and camp equipage, and dispatch her ahead under the charge of Clinton with six of the men. Mr. Bird finds Mr. Thompson at Moy, opposite Detroit, Agent on the part of the United States as authorized by the Treaty of Ghent, for managing the business under the sixth and seventh articles of the said treaty, . . . and do authorize and empower him to execute and fulfil the dutes of that office, with all the powers, privileges, and emoluments to the same of right appertaining to him the said Joseph Delafield, during the pleasure of the President of the United States for the time being. . . . The third day of March, A.D. 1821. . . .James Monroe. John Quincy Adams.' " He had been, on May 19, 1820, directed to attend the Commission (Journal of June 24, 1822, p. 43. 1 "Stannard to be paid Si 2 per mo. if we are well-satisfied with him." BOOK NINE 337 but is prevented closing his arrangements with him for the Summer survey, so far as it relates to the manner and the division of the labor, by reason of Mr. Thompson not having yet received his letters from the British Comr. but engages to Mr. Bird on the following morning to settle these matters. Hire James Hargrove, boatman, wages to commence this day at 13 dlls. per mo. Thursday, May 1 7. Leave Detroit after breakfast with Messrs. Bird & Ferguson & 4 hands in the Lady of the Lakes. Cross to the Canada shore, where Messrs. Bird & Thompson have an interview, and arrange the subjects of survey submitted to them. Proceed up the Detroit River and overtake our batteau near the Wind Mill Point, order her to pro- ceed and about 5 p.m. we arrive at the position we intend to for our camp; situate about 7 miles from Wind Mill Point on the American shore of Lake St. Clair. Have great difficulty in approaching the shore, it being so very flat & shallow. Have to employ a cart, to go off to the batteau about 200 yds. from the shore. W r ork 'til dark in pitching tents and fitting our canvass tenements for our lodgings. Get tolerably well established by 9 p.m. when we take our tea and biscuit & are willing to turn in upon our blankets. Our first day & night in camp would have been sickening to persons less used to it. A storm of wind and rain, cold & dreary, wet blankets, and but few comforts formed a strong contrast to my winter life. The camp however has its charms, and my happiness was, perhaps, with my wet blanket, canvass roof, iron spoon &c, equal to that of the W 7 inter, in my silk stockings upon drawing room carpets. Pitch our tents in a pretty little orchard by the side of Ladoceur's house. The owner is absent when we take possession and his wife dares not sanction the measure in his absence. On his return however he seems well pleased to have us such near neighbors and offers his services in every way. Friday, May 18. By noon our camp is in perfect order, and arrange- ments are made for business. Send the batteau hired at Detroit back, under charge of Clinton and two men, with instructions to proceed to Amherstburgh, and bring up a batteau of the British party, there (lent us) & the Black Jack from Detroit. In the afternoon Messrs. Bird and Ferguson proceed to establish stations. They survey the shores of Lake St. Clair by driving piles about half a mile from the shore & thus are enabled to conduct it trigonome- trically. Mr. Bird contrives a stage with four legs six feet long which he sinks by the side of his stations in his water and upon which he observes with his sextant. Mr. Ferguson observes from the land stations with a theodolite. Saturday, May 19. Remain in camp; my Canadian neighbor 338 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY amuses me thro' the morning by a relation of his ups & downs in life. Has a good farm & is rich in lands, children, & houses in Detroit, the rent of which makes him independent. A shrewd and hard working Canadian, that always makes a good bargain even with his children. He has given his two boys who are married each a farm and taken a mortgage. He annually acquits them of their interest money upon the exaction of a little labor when he requires it, and holds the mortgage as a pledge for their industry, and a maintenance in his old age. Such is the providence of this Canadian. The wind rises so high at noon that Mr. Bird is obliged to abandon his observations at his water stations. Severe frost at night. Sunday, May 20. Remain in camp. Clinton arrives from Amherstburgh with the batteau borrowed from the British party, bringing with him the Blackjack from Detroit. Cool, evening & night. Monday, May 21. Survey conducted to the camp, by observations at the water stations, and above the camp by the land stations, and stations established about six miles up the lake beyond the camp, both upon the shore, and in the lake. Tuesday, May 22. Send Clinton to Detroit for some articles and for our mail by the steam boat that arrived this morning, a fact known to us by the firing of the signal gun of the steam boat. He returns in the afternoon. A very high wind from the N.E. prevents surveying on the lake. The gentlemen measure their Base Line. Wednesday, May 23. A heavy gale of wind from the N.E. with rain, keeps the whole party in camp throughout the day. Find my Canadian neighbor's fireside more comfortable than my tent, during the cold storm of wind and rain. Thursday, May 24. Storm continues from the N.E. Are confined to our camp. High wind and rain. Before noon storm abates and the gentlemen proceed to their stations for observations. Discover a sail coming down Lake St. Clair, which I take to be the Confiance; board her with Mr. Bird, and find that Mr. Grant, the Master, had pass'd Mr. Thompson's camp on the St. Clair without seeing him or any of the party; and that he was bound for Black Rock. We explain to him that there is no necessity for his proceeding further down, that there was nobody below belonging to the party, that Mr. Thompson waited for the vessel to proceed to Lake Huron, and that I hoped he would come to at Moy in the Detroit, and certainly see or hear from Mr. Thompson before he proceeded. Mr. Grant stated that he would come to at Moy, and send Mr. Thompson word of his arrival there. The Con- fiance left Penatonquashine 1 on the 9th May and was blockaded by ice 1 Penetanguishene. BOOK NINE 339 for several days in the Georgian Bay, where Mr. Grant stated the ice extended for thirty miles & that he left it there. The past Winter upon the lakes has been considered cold, but not so extraordinary cold as upon the Atlantic. There has been some more ice than for a few Winters past, but not so much snow. The Spring has been cold and dry. At this day the apple trees are but beginning to bloom, and shew the first germ of their leaves, & for this they are indebted to the present storm of rain. Friday, May 25. Weather still bad, but the wind falling and less rain, allows the gentlemen to do considerable work. They observe at their stations so distant from the camp: as to report their readiness to move to River Huron as soon as they plot and delineate the shore now surveyed. Saturday, May 26. Weather unsettled, cloudy with showers through- out the day. Send forward to Huron River our heavy stores of pork & bread, under charge of the steward, in the batteau to be deposited there, for the purpose of making the moving of our camp light and expeditious. The gentlemen plot the survey already done and delineate the neighboring shore. Batteau returns in the evening. Sunday, May 27. Weather still unsettled, cloudy with showers. The party all in camp. In the afternoon Mr. Bird delineates the shore below the camp preparatory to our removal in the morning. Monday, May 28. Clear and pleasant, wind southerly. By sunrise we begin to load our boats and by 7 o'clock our tents, camp equipage, stores and baggage are on board. I proceed in the Blackjack and enter the River Huron as high as the wind mill which is about a mile from the lake and about 16 miles from Ladeseur, our late encampment. The shore is for the most part cleared and settled by Canadians exclusively from the Detroit River to the River Huron, with the exception of an occasional Prairie between Ladeseur and this place that is too low for buildings. At the mouth of the River Huron is an extensive flat or low Prairie shooting by long points into the lake so as to make it difficult to find the mouth of the river, coming up the lake. These flats extend a long distance into the lake and are covered but by about two feet of water. In midsummer they are not dangerous to the navigation because the rushes grow up for their whole extent, but the approach to the Huron River at this season is very deceptive and circuitous. At the wind mill the land is about four feet above the water and the river 150 feet wide and deep. It is stained with vegetable matter to a dark brown color & is unfit for use. As before, we encamp in the apple orchard of the proprietor of the mill & by 3 o'clock are comfortably & perfectly reestablished. Mr. Bird reconnoiters for a Base Line. In the afternoon a shower, with thunder and lightning. Our camp is on the farm of Mr. Morance. 340 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Tuesday, May 29. Clear and pleasant. Messrs. Bird and Ferguson leave the camp by 7 o'clock a.m. with two boats, crews provisioned for two days in the hope of carrying the work up to Huron Point by that time, and thus avoid the necessity of repassing the flats & long points at the mouth of Huron River. In the afternoon walk up the river about two miles. It is pretty well settled on the N. side, and also on the S. side for this distance, and is said to be settled as far as Pontiac which is thirty miles up the river. There is also a small settlement four miles up the river, where has been established a county town, called Mount Clements. A jail & Court House has been built there and a Judge Clements commissioned. The farmers on this part of the river complain of the experiment to force a village there as a dear experiment to them, the county being already in debt for what they have done. It is in Huron County. It commenced three years ago by the settling there of eight or ten American families. They are very poor & little progress is making. The settlers upon the banks of the Huron River are, with the exception of the Tuckers, all Canadians. Mr. Tucker was the first settler upon this river thirty five years ago. He held a large tract on the north shore. This tract is now divided between his six sons, who are rather good farmers, and pretty well established adjoining each other. The soil is extremely rich. It is all alluvial or bottom land precisely like the flats of the Mohawk. Yields good crops of wheat. This alluvial is very extensive. The farmers in this neighborhood begin to feel rather severely the pressure of the times. Lack of markets for their produce has made them poor since the war, and the merchants at Detroit become reluctant to exchange their commodities for produce. It falls particularly hard upon them who have never practiced or thought of living otherwise than by barter, and who are not accustomed to the spinning wheel, or carding of wool, and know not how to supply these resources. The Americans do better altho the spinning wheel and loom are almost unknown in the country. Mr. Tucker tells me that he has poled a raft from the mouth of Huron River to the islands, and that there is nowhere to exceed ten feet of water in this route. This river has risen one foot since the ice broke up in River St. Clair. Lake St. Clair is so small and shallow a lake, that it soon feels the influence of obstructions in the river above. In the evening Messrs. Bird and Ferguson return to camp, having been enabled to conduct their work to Huron Point, a task that had been anticipated as two good days' labor. The settlers in this part of the country take much interest in the expected boundary line decisions. They all say they do not care much about the islands in Lake St. Clair if they can but have the Bois Blanc BOOK NINE 341 Island 1 in the Detroit as an American island. This little island has con- sequence attached to it, because it was of moment during the war, & commands the best channel. There is in truth a good channel on our side of the Bois Blanc as well as theirs but not so direct. As a military position it is of no consequence. Neither Govt, will probably fortify there, and in time of war the strongest will possess it. Wednesday, May 30. In the morning rain, wind S.E. After dinner it clears off & the gentlemen go out and establish stations for several miles on the neighboring shores. Evening cool, wind N.W. The rate for grinding wheat at the wind mills in this country- is every tenth bushel to the miller. No money is ever paid at the mill. The miller disposes of his flour to new settlers usually, otherwise takes it to the Detroit market. Our men bring in a fine mess of fish from the mouth of Huron River, black bass, pike, perch and sun fish. Fish are plentiful in Lake St. Clair, and particularly at the mouths of the rivers and the outlets of channels among the islands. A wind mill will grind between sunrise and sunset with a strong wind 120 bushels of wheat. Mr. Morance has done this much occasionally. Thursday, May 31. Cloudy and cool. Send Clinton to Detroit with letters and for the mail by the steam boat. The gentlemen leave camp to establish stations. A storm of wind and rain commences by 12 o'clock and continues thro' the day from the N.N.W. They remain out until late in the afternoon. Mr. Bird pro- ceeded up the Eagle Channel to its source and returned thro' the North or present Ship Channel, first having set some stations upon the small islands off the large islands and upon some of the points of the large islands. He discovers the stations of the British party, at the mouth of the old Ship or Middle Channel. The Eagle Channel after the bar is pass'd he describes as a deep channel, but the bar is extensive and has but about two feet of water. In the Eagle Channel there is probably 20 ft. of water and is as wide as the North Channel. It empties thro several outlets into the lake over an extensive flat of too little water but for small boats. Friday, June 1. Clear and cool, wind N.N.W. & high. Party at work at a Base Line on the flats opposite our camp. Clinton returns from Detroit with the steam boat; letters for such of our party as were for- tunate enough to hear from their friends below. Saturday, June 2. Clear and pleasant. The Base Line is measured and the gentlemen proceed to take angles 1 One of the islands which ultimately caused friction between the American and the British Commissions. 342 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY in the neighborhood of the points and at their stations off the mouth of Huron River. The surrounding country is entirely alluvion, and the land is rapidly encroaching upon the lake. Mr. Morance, the proprietor of the north point of Huron River, assures me that since he purchased this spot which is fourteen years ago the point has formed at least five acres; or as he says the land has grown five acres. The causes and operation of alluvial increase are strongly exemplified here. Great quantities of sand are always washing down the strong and deep current of the River St. Clair, and have in the first places formed the many islands that lie off its mouth & which are now indeed the many mouths or outlets of that river. The islands are higher at their upper ends, and slope away 'til covered by the water, and are then extensive flats. The whole lake has felt the influence of this deposit, and perhaps nowhere can be found to exceed three fathoms of water. This Spring the several channels of the St. Clair were blocked by ice except the North Channel. The great increase of water forced thro' that channel, Mr. Morance says, has entirely altered the direction of the old channel. Has made it more direct, and there is now nine feet water. He says he well recollects that thirty five years ago he used to go with his father with laden boats close to the bank of the lake where Laducre now lives, near Milk River. A laden boat cannot approach within quarter of a mile at this time. The great quantities of dirt bro't down by the rivers emptying into Lake St. Clair contribute largely to its decrease. They are all black and dirty streams. Mr. Morance tells me that the last Spring, when the flat before us was overflowed, there was left not less than two inches of dirt or soil. He says in the Spring, when they have freshets, the water of this river is so foul and filled with a variety of matter that it smells very bad and they cannot use it in any manner. The rapids commence on the River Huron about twelve miles from its mouth, and there the banks are high. He says about four miles you reach elevated land, and this is a ridge that extends to Lake Michigan. He does not know how far the river extends, but has ascended to its source & thinks 70 or 80 miles. The Black River that empties into River St. Clair he knows more than 100 miles. Its rapids commence 25 miles from its mouth, the cur- rent very rapid but not broken about nine miles up. The banks at the rapids are 100 ft. high, and upon the ridge at his mills, which are thirty miles up, you overlook the loftiest trees on the plains below, and further up there is a peak or mountain from which you see Lake Huron. The bed of the river is all rock, and part of its banks. The high land is barren and rocky throughout the territory, says Mr. Morance. The banks of the River Huron become very 7 rocky at Pontiac 25 miles up and the high land there is also rocky and barren. He does not know the kind of BOOK NINE 343 rocks, but does know that there is no limestone. He has by his mill some large blocks of grey granite brought from the Milk River near its mouth; from his imperfect description however am inclined to believe that the rocks are rolled masses and not in place. The shore of Lake St. Clair from the River Detroit to River Ginmdler 1 is skirted next the bank with a line of roll'd rocks and stones all primitive and of various & remarkable compounds: below them upon the beach are the roll'd limestone (in small stones) sometimes containing shells and madrepores. After you pass River Ginmdler, call'd Milk River, the beach is all sand without a stone of any description, nor are any stones to be found til you reach the high land West of the lake, upon this side of the lake. After ascending the River Huron about 80 miles you arrive at its source in a little lake; another river with the same names also has its source in this little lake and empties into Lake Erie not far from the mouth of the Detroit, so that this circuit may be performed without a portage. It is said to be very similar to the River Huron of Lake St. Clair in size, rapids, and rocks, except that on the River Huron of Erie there is said to be limestone. On the Black River of the River St. Clair are great quantities of excellent pine timber. From thence this country is supplied with its pine lumber. It is of large and handsome growth. The mill privileges are numerous, but two are improved. Our neighbor, Mr. Morance, has the principal sawmill there. He has let it, the present season for one thousand dollars to be paid him in lumber at the rate of 10 dlls. per thousand ft. He will sell his lumber for 12 or 12^ dollars in Detroit. Sunday, June 3. The party all in camp, clear and pleasant day. Squire Tucker and Doctor Hartshorne 2 visit me. Learn but little from them of the interior that I had not learned before. Ascertain rather satisfactorily however that the elevated plain thro this part of Michigan has no primitive rocks in place. They say it is stony, and that the rocks are mostly rounded and of all sizes from that of a hogshead to pebbles; that they are primitive Erie no doubt, but there are no quarries or fixed 1 According to Dr. M. M. Quaife of Detroit, old maps and records give various spellings for this name but evidently based on the French word guignolee. On the Aaron Greeley 1810 map of Private Land Claims at Detroit, it appears as "Riviere a Ginniolet." On Farmer's Map of Michigan, 1836, it is given as "Guignolet." In other papers, "Guinolet." Dr. Quaife advances the idea that possibly mistletoe once grew in abundance here and was used in the Christmas and New Year celebrations by the French-Canadians in their custom of guignol6e; that the name Riviere a Gignolee or New Year River was associated with the stream. The reason for the pres- ent name, Milk River, is not known. 2 It is possible that this was Dr. Joseph Hartshorne, the eminent Philadelphia physician, born December 12, 1779 in Alexandria, Virginia. 344 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY rocks, to their knowledge. They say in colors and description they resemble the rocks upon the shores of the Lake St. Glair, between Detroit River and Milk River, where is a singular variety of compound primitive rocks out of place. The region in the rear of us is no doubt limestone, altho these persons say not. Monday, June 4. Clear and pleasant. Messrs. Bird and Ferguson with their respective crews leave camp fitted for two days' absence. They intend to finish the work at the mouths of the several outlets thro the islands and connect it with the work of the British party in that direction previous to their return. The ends of these islands or channels are about in a line from the Huron River. Tuesday, June 5. Favorable weather for our operations. Sun mostly obscured and distant objects very distinct. Surveyors absent from camp amongst the islands. Pass a solitary day in camp with little other amusement than fishing. The musquitoes make their first' appearance this day, but so young as to be harmless. Mr. Ferguson returns to the camp about 9 at night, not having met with Bird at the place appointed, and having no tent or provisions in his boat. He came from the main shore in Anchor Bay, the work at the mouth of the islands being completed. Wednesday, June 6. Clear and pleasant, wind S.S.W. Tempe. at noon 77 . Mr. Bird returns to dine, having been absent from camp since Monday morning, the survey being so far completed as to require our removal to the North Channel as soon as the delineations in the neighborhood are done. At night all hands in camp. Thursday, June 7. Clear and calm. Tempe. at noon 79 . Send Clinton for our mail by the steam boat and some articles wanted in camp. Messrs. Bird and Ferguson plot their work for the past fortnight and remain in camp most of the day. Friday, June 8. Heavy rain until 7 a.m., when I conclude to remove the camp onward, and order accordingly. Before 8 o'clock Clinton returns with our mail from Detroit. Our tents are struck, the batteaux laden with our stores and camp equipage, The Lady and the Blackjack with other baggage and by 10 o'clock we leave the Huron River for St. Clair River. Encounter a heavy gust of wind with rain in Hang- man's or Turtle Channel. Mr. Bird & myself reach the head of Strom- ness or Thompson Island as called and look for our encamping ground. Cross over to the main shore at the settlement above Point aux Trembles but find the head of Stromness Island to be the most proper & desirable. The Black Jack soon comes up, and by 2 o'clock the batteaux; and BOOK xNINE 345 before sun set our establishment is in the same order, and all things arranged as before, altho the day had been stormy throughout. Saturday, June 9. I set off with Mr. Bird to look for the British party and preconcert further arrangements with Mr. Thompson, or rather to give them an opportunity to do so. Proceed down the Middle Channel and find Mr. Stevenson in his batteau, moving his camp to the St. Clair River, having finished the surveys of all the channel's islands, &c. from Chenail ficarte to the Middle or Walpole Channel, as also their coast of the lake. Learn that Doctr. Bigsby and Mr. Gibbs were in camp on the little island above the settlement upon the river, and we concluded to proceed with Mr. Stevenson to see them. Mr. Stevenson encamps on the American side at the settlement. Doctr. Bigsby informs us that Mr. Thompson left the camp on the 7th instant in the schooner Confiance bound for Lake Huron to take the observations ordered there by the Board; that he calculated upon an absence of about six weeks. Mr. Stevenson, it was thought, would finish the St. Clair River in about a fortnight and their section of Lake St. Clair and islands in about the same time. It was agreed that the party first completing their work should repair to the other, so that we might all leave this neighborhood together on our way to Lake Erie, where we agree to assist the British party in finishing their section about Point Pellet Island and that coast of Lake Erie to the Detroit River. A part that had been abandoned heretofore on account of the prevailing fevers in their camp, the same season and place when and where Mr. Ogilvy fell a victim. Sunday, June 10. All the party in camp, clear and warm. Learn from one of the settlers upon this island that its proper name is Stromness Island, that the first proprietor was a Scotchman who came from that place in Scotland and so named the island. It is also called Cartwright's & Thompson's. Find on the shore a very remarkable fish, resembling I think very closely the famed Proteus Anguinus of Austria. It has four short legs with four toes on each leg, a flat tail and vertical. The distance between the fore and hinder legs greater than the length of the tail. Its head flat and broad and close upon the forelegs, has a large mouth, in the under jaw one row of small and fine teeth, very numerous, in the upper two rows of similar size & shape. Its gills are in three divisions or lobes the termination of each lobe division has a feather like appearance so minutely it is divided. Its eyes are scarcely apparent, are in the fore part of the head and very small. This fish is about 14 inches long, and of a dark color, handsomely spotted over the back and tail. Its belly is of a yellowish white. l 1 Necturus of the Great Lakes. 346 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY They are numerous here and upon all the waters between Niagara River and Lake Huron, i.e. they are found in the Niagara River and the streams emptying into it and in this river and the several channels thro' the islands. It is probably an animal of deep & cold waters, as I have only heard of it in the neighborhood of such places. It seeks the shallows and the sun occasionally, when they may be taken. Preserve this animal in rum for further examination and dissection. Monday, June II. Messrs. Bird and Ferguson leave camp, the former goes down the Eagle Channel, the latter to the bay in the rear of Point aux Trembles, and do not return 'til 9 o'clock at night. The Middle Channel carries five fathoms of water into the lake, and Mr. Bird thinks beyond the Sand Islands, a fact of much importance that I resolve to ascertain. The bay of Point aux Trembles is but a shallow sand flat, and will as the season advances be filled with rushes. Mr. Ferguson saw rattle-snakes of the large spotted yellow kind, in this bay as also the Mississaga. Upon this island (Stromness) the small black rattle-snake is found, but not the large kind. The copper head is also here. Upon the islands not so well cleared, the small rattle-snakes are very numerous. Tuesday, June 12. At sunrise a heavy fog, and warm sultry morn- ing. In the course of the day the thermometer as high as 94 , wind from S. & S.W. mostly. Several vessels pass up the river: One the Superior with Col. Wool on board on his way to Green Bay. A fresh wind pre- vents us having any other communication than by hailing each other. The vessel soon runs by the camp. The evening clear and calm. About midnight am awoke by a terrible storm of wind, rain, thunder and lightning, all excessive. Mr. Ferguson soon comes to my tent saying that his has blown over and that Clinton's has also given way, but left him holding on to the wreck. In a moment after Mr. Bird comes in covered only with a blanket and reports his tent also to be prostrate. Turn out and secure mine by driving the pins and adjusting the cords, so that it resists the fury of the storm & affords us a shelter until day- break when the gentlemen soon have their tents repitched. The scene of our misfortunes in the night was attended with so many ludicrous incidents, that we could not but laugh in our troubles: Mr. Ferguson diving under his fallen tent to make his escape; Clinton holding on to his tent poles and lashing the fragments with an axe helve, Mr. Bird in the wreck of baggage within his tent scrambling to escape in a blanket but served to afford us some amusement thro' the terrors of the storm. Wednesday, June 13. Storm continues, thro' the day. Party obliged to remain in camp. At night the rain falls very heavy and constantly. About midnight the wind rises and alarms me for the safety of our tents, but we all escape. The men lodge in Cartwright's barn. The lot BOOK NINE 347 upon which we encamp is flooded, as is the whole island. The islanders say they never before experienced so violent nor long a storm of thunder, lightning, wind and rain as that of the previous night, and that they suffered in their houses by the bursting open of the doors and breaking of the windows. Our canvass roof exempted us from some of these evils, altho they are incident to worse ones as the experience of the previous night convinced others of the camp. The wind during the storm was variable, S.E., S.W., N.E. prevailing. The temperature mild, or we should have been great sufferers. The woods do not afford a retreat on this island, and our neighbor Cartwright's house is a hovel that shelters himself, his horses, sheep and cows promiscuously. To explain the extent of his bestiality, the old man three days ago bought a barrel of whiskey: since that time he has laid on his back most disgustingly drunk and filthy, wallowing with the cattle of his farm under the roof. Thursday, June 14. Storm continues. Party detained in camp. In the afternoon the rain ceases, and the boats go out and come in at night. They bring me a gar fish that is, I believe, more frequent in these waters than in the other lakes. I also find today a very remarkable little animal that appears to be amphibious. It has the fore claws some- what like the lobster, a head like an insect protected under a shield or case like a turtle. Back of this small case or head piece are two small wings. Has a long tail something like the lobster, and is found when travelling from the river up the sandy shore. It works its way under the sand like a mole, raising a little furrow as it passes, when it may be taken. They are numerous here, it appears from the traces on the shores. I never saw but the present one, which is preserved for examina- tion &c. This animal seems to partake of the fish, the bird & the insect. It is but two inches long. Whether full grown or not, cannot tell. The bill fish is so called from its long bill like mouth which is well armed with fine sharp teeth. It has four lateral fins and two vertical fins. The first pair lateral immediately behind the gills, the second do. about the middle of the body & the two vertical ones near the tail. Its tail vertical, eyes large, thick skin closely set with strong scales that are rather small for the size of the fish. It is a long, tapering and hand- some fish. Back of brownish blue and belly yellowish white: colors like the sturgeon. They are numerous on the sand flats of Lake St. Clair. I have not seen them in the other lakes. It is the Esox osseous, and is found in most if not all of the lakes. Friday, June 15. We are greeted by the light of a shining sun this morning for the first time sufficient to feel its influence for four days. The gentlemen leave the camp after an early breakfast and return at night from their respective sections of survey. Saturday, June 16. Remain in camp, the gentlemen out at their 348 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY work. Some of the islanders come to see me, among them a Mrs. Mac- Donald a clever Scotchwoman who has been in this country sixteen years, and together with her husband came out with Lord Selkirk. Lord Selkirk at that time brought with him a large flock of Merino sheep and MacDonald came out as shepherd. He rented the large island of this groupe on the Chenail ficarte of the Indians and stock'd it with his sheep. He called the island St. Mary's after an estate of his in Scotland and placed an overseer there. His sheep did not thrive well, owing sometimes to the want of subsistence and generally to the want of fidelity on the part of his overseers. They severally became sots, according to MacDonald. At the commencement of the war Forsyth plundered the island, carried off about nine hundred head of sheep and other property. They were afterward retaken at Hull's surrender except a few that were butchered at Detroit. Butchered by the Indians, those sold got into the possession of the neighboring farmers and thence the breed of Merinos that is now common amongst the farmers and peasants here. Lord Selkirk used to send the wool to England, but they cannot tell me whether it answered his purpose. This misfortune awaited the praiseworthy efforts of this nobleman. His object seemed to be in this respect to benefit his fellow creatures, rather than himself. His people here speak in high terms of the humanity and goodness of Lord Selkirk. His expenditures in this country were enormous. The sheep were taken upon the plea that they were public property, but I do not know how Forsyth could so consider them, nor how Hull could countenance the seeming outrage. Evils of this kind were retorted upon our farmers with a vengeance. Sunday, June 17. Heavy storm of rain commences the night before with thunder and lightning, wind from all quarters, and settles into a steady rain. Wind from N.W. The party all in camp. Clears off in the afternoon, evening cool and pleasant. Monday, June 18. Leave Camp in The Lady for the purpose of sounding off the mouth of the Walpole or Old Ship Channel. Proceed down the Eagle Channel, in which you carry four and four and a half fathom water, until it spreads into the lake over a bar of not more than three feet water extending from the Sand Islands to the points of the islands forming the outlet on either side of the Eagle Channel. Sound on a line from the further Sand Island to the North point of Old Ship Channel — One quarter of a mile from the mouth of the channel find four and four & a half fathom water. Put out into the lake find three fathom and when abreast of the outer sand island come to the bar, in the deepest place covered with nine feet of water, but very irregular, the sand being in waves. This channel, if good, would be of vast im- BOOK NINE 349 portance. It is in the same line with the River St. Clair, and the wind that would carry from either Lake St. Glair or Lake Huron, would at the same time carry you thro' this channel. The channel now used has scarcely nine feet of water, and it requires three changes of wind to pass into Lake Huron, so circuitous is the route. Vessels are conse- quently sometimes detained a week at this pass, and the present season most of the heavy schooners have been accompanied with lighters to aid them over the bar. Coming down the lakes the Old Ship Channel is certainly preferable because direct. Going up it has no other disadvan- tage than the want of anchorage should there be a necessity to come to. This necessity cannot ordinarily happen. If a head wind, the old anchorage can be made; if a fair wind, the bar passed. As soon as you pass the bar, the islands afford sufficient shelter. The several channels running by all these islands carry from four to four and a half fathom water to their outlet. The West branch of the Old Ship Channel carries this depth so far into the lake, that I had little doubt but what I had found as good a channel as could be wished. About half a mile however from its mouth you find the water begins to shoal and suddenly pass from four to two fathoms and down to nine feet. The pass of nine feet is but narrow, and East or West of that point you find but one fathom. The changes that annually take place here must be very considerable. The sandy south shore of Lake Huron seems to be rapidly passing into the bed of Lake St. Clair. The St. Glair River and the several channels thro which it empties are deeper than the lake, are all of strong current and terminate in flats of great extent. The islands are higher at their heads and also decrease toward their lower ends until they are lost in the sand flats of the lake. The heads of these islands are covered with soil of one footh depth, which diminishes as you go down the island until it also terminates in sand. It is not probable that other causes than the currents of the rivers operate in this manner here. Currents of air I imagine have little to do with it. I know of no sand barrens to be wafted here, except the shore of Lake Huron, and the operation of the water there is too palpable to go in search of other causes. The head of the St. Clair River is cap'd by the sand of Lake Huron, and the rapids carry it down as it arrives. The time may come when the small Lake St. Clair will be one large sand plain or prairie with a narrow channel winding thro' it. I believe that time will come. The sand is constantly deposited farther out into the lake, as the current extends with the con- tracted channels. It would not be very difficult to force a great part of the St. Clair River down the Old Ship or Middle Channel by dams across the North Channel and Chenail ficarte" &c, but the effect would be to remove the bar farther into the lake. Should even the whole lake be choked with sand and the whole river St. Clair pass thro' one chan- 350 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY nel to the Detroit, I do not apprehend the navigation of these waters would be improved, because the bar will be carried so much farther down and on a large scale. It may be that by removing the bars from St. Clair they are deposited at the entrance of Lake Erie. Mr. Bird remains in camp this day and plots his map of the islands and adjacent lake shores. Mr. Ferguson goes to his work below. At night very heavy thunder showers. Tuesday, June 19. Cloudy. The gentlemen proceed to their work amongst the islands. Remain in camp. In the afternoon very heavy showers with thunder & lightning and a hail storm. The boats return in the evening, both parties thoroughly drenched as we all have been almost daily for a week past. In the morning am visited by a Capt. Stuart & nephew from Maiden, and a Mr. Hudson 1 , an American. They are on a tour of pleasure and to give Mr. Hudson, who is in the missionary employ, a little practical excursion up the St. Clair. Capt. Stuart appears full of holy zeal and is an intelligent pleasing man of good address & good manners. In this business he is rather what may be called an amateur & well wisher than a missionary. They all distribute tracts however & are equally zealous. Mr. Hudson is acquiring the Indian language, for the purpose of accom- panying a mission to the Sagina Bay, to be sent there in the Autumn, to consist of preacher, teacher, mechanics and farmers. The Sagina Indians are a vicious and bad set. Success attend the mission. Messrs. Stuart & Rankin breakfast with me, whilst Mr. Hudson visits the neighboring settlers with his tracts. They soon after proceed in an ele- gant sail boat of Capt. Stuart's. By them I send Mr. Stevenson a bale of blankets & a letter to Dr. Bigsby. They do not neglect to leave my men a set of their tracts & Capt. Stuart presents me with some select tracts handsomely printed & done up as an evidence of his good will, and an acknowledgment of my civilities to him and party; and I ought to add as a hint that my own attention should be for ought he knew more frequently fixed upon spiritual things. Wednesday, June 20. Cloudy, and some rain in the morning, wind N.E. The gentlemen proceed to their work. In the afternoon, walk down the shore of the Eagle Channel, and see Brown and McDonald who are Scotch settlers there. The former has some of Lord Selkirk's full blood Merino sheep, and was his shepherd. These sheep have lost their value 1 Probably the Rev. Charles Hudson, born in Massachusetts Nov. 1 4, 1 795, and who was licensed as a Universalist preacher in 18 19. BOOK NINE 351 here. At the sale of the flock after the war a best full blood ram would go for five and six dollars. Brown has just cut a fine ram having more than is right for his yews, and having no means of disposing of him. The half breed he considers the best. He says the full bloods degenerate in this country without mixture. These people know not the value of fine wool. A great district of country with a considerable population has not a fulling mill and the loom is scarcely known in their homes. The water privileges are suffi- cient for all manufacturing purposes, and the farmers now feel that they have neglected their true interests by an entire dependance upon the Detroit merchant for everything they wear, and for too many things they eat & drink. Thursday, June 2 1 . Clear and cool, wind N. & N.N.W. The brig, Wellington, schooners, Govr. Gore & Lake Serpent, pass down the river & some smaller vessels, giving this river the appearance of much commerce. In truth, it is surprising to realize the navigation of these waters, crowded as I occasionally see the St. Clair River with canvass, and reflect upon their unknown condition but yesterday. Ere long the square rigg'd vessels like those of the Atlantic will be familiar here, and a race of skilful & hardy fresh water tars will vie with the sons of old Neptune for pre-eminence in seamanship. The ship-builder too will have great scope for his art in these remote waters. At present it is the fashion to imitate in all things the ways and customs of the sons of salt water, but so peculiar a navigation must raise peculiar seamen and peculiar usages. When hay-makers become sailors, and the green woods float away in the models of ships and schooners, something new under the sun will come out of it. As yet, no lake slang nor lake tactics is in vogue, but its foundation is laid. Since we encamped upon this river the water has risen in the several channels at least one foot. The Black River, it is said, has risen eleven feet, and is four feet higher than known in the memory of the oldest settler. The other rivers emptying into the river and Lake St. Clair have all risen prodigiously and empty their dark waters with such pro- fusion into the bright waters of the deep and green St. Clair that it is all one dirty and blackish stream. Friday, June 22. Clear, calm and warm. The gentlemen leave camp early & have a favorable day for work. Mr. Bird finds a deep bay in the lower end of Herson's Island that gives more trouble and causes more labor than anticipated. He obtains however all the requisite material for his map by sun set. Receive a letter from Dr. Bigsby, who has charge of the British party. He states that this day their work is within eight miles of Fort Gratiot, and that in five days Mr. Stevenson expects to close it; and that it is unnecessary for us to repair thither. 352 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Reply to the Doctor that our work will be done by Tuesday evening next; that Messrs. Bird and Stevenson must meet to preconcert meas- ures of joint operation before we can commence at Point Pele, & that we will wait here until the middle of the week, with the hope of seeing them by that time, but that, should a favorable wind induce us to pro- ceed, we would encamp at the mouth of the Detroit River, at Elba, or its neighborhood and wait their arrival there. Saturday, June 23. Clear and calm, Tempe. at noon 85 F., wind S. and S.S.W. Put up three of the extraordinary fish of these waters for cabinet use. The one that I believe to be the Proteus Anguinus of Cuvier 1 of con- venient size & perfect that I put in spirits, and throw away the large one, that had been too long dead before found to make a good prepara- tion. One a large fleshy and fat fish somewhat in form like the cat fish. Large mouth with small fine teeth, two fins by the shoulders a long narrow fin on the lower half of its back and belly, edging it like an eel, and a fin tail, one prong nearly an inch long, hanging a little behind its under lip. This fish is active, and when held by the head would wind its tail up to its head, but was too large & clumsy to throw itself into folds. The settlers here did not know the fish (the Lake Cod of Mitchell). Another was a small pale green tapering animal six inches long, without fins of any kind, a mouth like the sucker, eyes scarcely apparent and a dotted line on each side of the head extending one inch. The animal probably breathed thro' these small holes. They were situated like the gills of other fish (young lamprey eel) . The fish before described like the catfish, has one row of teeth in the lower front jaw in a cluster, a corresponding row on the upper jaw, and another row on the roof of the mouth further back. The fish when alive would attempt to bite anything placed near its head. Between the skin and entrails there was a curious formation. It consisted of a considerable number of rounded parallel filaments detached, and about three inches long, thus in the Lake Cod of Mitchell. The little eel-like fish, a lad tells me he has seen before fixed upon a sturgeon when it was taken. If so, they may be of the leech kind. Sunday, June 24. Clear. Light wind S.W., Temp, at noon 87 . The party all in camp. Monday, June 25. Clear, Tempe. at noon 88i^°. The gentlemen measure a Base Line on Herson's Island, and spend the rest of the day in camp plotting their maps. 1 Cuvier, author of Theory of the Earth, a book, the American edition of which had appeared in 181 8, from the press of Kirk and Mercain, N. Y., and had created great interest in America. Delafield's Diary shows evidence of careful study of this famous scientific work. *s a n o 8 S E I S V r «'tA V" 1 ~H ->" -., ,,„ t ,i„.,. I UHr n /■■'?.', nr r « — flea®. — Art* /fcff.fr »/"c rFTKrt h rem run | antii' mutrur. I ll'll.l t.1\l A MHll | MI70 rn,'iirs,\ | A SECTION OF THE SURVEY FROM THE ORIGINAL IN THE NATIONAL ARCHIVES— WASHINGTON, D. C. BOOK NINE 353 Mr. Smith, a Justice of the Peace, & his neighbor living on the St. Clair, call upon me. The former, to advise concerning the farm held by McDonald, his father-in-law, on this (Stromness) island. The pur- chase was from Gartwright, who bought of Thompson, who with others bought of the Indians with permission of the then Comd'g British Officer at Detroit. The Comd'g Officer was authorized to make such grants in behalf of his government. He kept a record of such grants, and gave some instrument explanatory of the sale. Such titles have been confirmed & are good. Explain to Mr. Smith that such titles as were good under the British Gov't will be secured to them under the American Gov't in case of change of dominion, and that whether Stromness Island belong to the U.S. or not, McDonald's title on that account undergoes no change. Also express to Mr. Smith my opinion & belief that this island will be an American island, upon which he determines to enter their claims for lands with the Land Commis- sioners now holding a Board for such purpose at Detroit. Tuesday, June 26. The surveys are finished this day to connect with the surveys of the British party at the Chenail Ecarte and the mouth of the St. Clair River. Pomeville with stores for the British Party passes by this day on his way from Fort Erie to join them, wherever he can find them — The stores brought up by Pomainville not being in time for the party were, as I afterwards learned, delivered at Maiden for the use of the next season. Wednesday, June 27. Rain. A fair wind however induces us to strike our tents and proceed for the Detroit, there to wait the coming of the British party. Our boats are laden and we set sail about eight o'clock. Run down the Eagle Channel, cross Lake St. Clair & arrive at Detroit about three o'clock. When off Hog Island take the soundings on both sides, sending Mr. Ferguson down the American side. On the British side the greatest depth is 8 fathoms, on our side five. . . . Wait at Detroit for the arrival of the batteau. Make all requisite arrange- ments there about provisions, bills due &c, &c. and when the batteau arrives we all proceed down the river, and encamp at twilight on a plain nearly opposite the Spring Wells on the Canada shore for the night: myself & Bird in the Lady of the Lakes, Ferguson in the Black Jack, and Clinton in the batteau, being the order of our march on removals. Thursday, June 28. Take an early breakfast and proceed down the Detroit River to the Bois Blanc. Look for a convenient spot for our camp on the head of Bois Blanc, at Elba or Grosse Isle, at Hickory Island and the foot of Bois Blanc, and find the most desirable spot at the latter place, where I assemble the boats, and by dinner time our 354 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY camp is in perfect order and beautifully situated. Looking upon Lake Erie on our right, the Canada shore handsomely improved in front, the Detroit and town of Maiden on our left. At the lower extremity of Bois Blanc is the ruin of a small fort, thrown up by the British during the war. It is a square work for eight guns, two on each face, a deep ditch, and on an elevation about 20 feet from the water. Its parapets of sods & the earth from the ditch. Gate in the rear, or rather once was there, the rear being toward the upper end of the island. Bois Blanc Island is of very good soil, timbered with basswood and hickory. Its banks from 3 to 1 o feet high and is a beautiful little plot of ground. Friday, June 29. Clear. Cross over to visit Col. Hawkins, the Comdg. Officer at Maiden. Maiden seems to be on the decline. We walk'd thro' the place and neither saw a soul stirring in the town, not even horse or dog, nor heard the sound of voice, hammer or other im- plement. The scene was dreary, and I gladly accompanied the Colonel to his quarters down the river, from whence I returned to camp. The Colonel states that on the lakes above Niagara there are six sail of vessels belonging to the British and seventy to the Americans. The former number he knows to be right, the latter he believes to be so. Saturday, June 30. Col. Hawkins of the 68th visits us in camp. Myself, Bird & Ferguson dine with Col. Hawkins and mess at 5 p.m. Capt. Reed, Lieut's Jackson and Black and Doct'r Tenant are stationed at this post. Doct'r Bigsby arrives from the St. Clair River. He states that Mr. Stevenson was to leave there this day, but thought he would stop at Moy for two or three days. The Doct'r brings with him Pomeville and the stores he had in charge, having met with him on the St. Clair River, and taken them from on board one vessel to the other. Advise the doct'r to send notice to Stevenson of his arrival here, of the stores being at Maiden, and the necessity of his repairing here without delay, so that we may proceed to our duties. Sunday, July 1. Rain, wind S.E., Tempe. 75 at noon. Go to church at Maiden with Col. Hawkins. Congregation small, Priest and Clerk rather dull and stupid in their vocations. Return to camp to dine. Learn from Col. Hawkins that one reason why the people at Maiden take so great interest in the Bois Blanc Island is that in case it is to be a British island a Navy Depot is to be established at Maiden, and that they wait the decision of the Board for such purpose, a question of vital importance to the welfare of Maiden. It is now on the decline. The Navy Depot would do much to resuscitate the place. The Colonel shews me the standing order of the Govr. General of the BOOK NINE 355 Canada's in 1794, signed "Dorchester," relative to the purchase of lands from the Indians. It is ordered that no individual be allowed to purchase, that persons desirous to make purchases give notice to the Superintendent or Dep'y Supt. Genl., accompanying application with plot of ground &c: that Councils be held for such purpose; that all due ceremony be observed according to ancient usage of the Indians; that it be agreed in Council what amount of goods of British manufacture shall be paid; that three formal deeds be prepared by the Attorney General; that they be executed in Council by the Chiefs, the Officer attending on the part of His Majesty, and before three witnesses; that one copy be kept by such officer, one by the party purchasing, the other given to the Indians. This order altho' not now strictly conformed to, is the present stand- ing order and has been revived by each succeeding Govr. Genl. of the Provinces. From this it appears that no titles derived from Indians, altho with permission of Comding. Military Officers, without the former ceremonies, are strictly valid, no officer but the Governor General having the power to grant permission for purchases, or rather to hold Councils for such purposes. Monday, July 2. In camp, Bois Blanc Island. In the evening Drs. Bigsby and Tenant visit us. The steam boat passes up. Get papers and letters from Black Rock, but other letters being mailed for Detroit cannot obtain them, much to our disappointment. Tuesday, July 3. Breakfast with Col. Hawkins and join a party on a hunt to Celeron Island for rattle snakes, an amusement in this country that strongly indicates the great dearth of reasonable objects of pastime. Celeron Island is famed for the number of its snakes. They are the black rattle snake called Mississagui by distinction from the large, brown rattle snake with yellow spots. The previous night had been quite cool and but few snakes were abroad. We took two however in our walk around the island. There were hay cutters upon the island, who said they had killed several whilst mowing. These men protect themselves from the bite by tying pieces of blanket about their legs, as high as the knees, a very necessary precaution to rattle snake sportsmen and hay cutters. We had not been so provident, and roving thro' the high grass, run risks that had better have been avoided. The Mississaga rattle snake when examined is handsome, on account of its color. The brown, black and yellow colors of a soft, velvet-like appearance make the skin a rich one to the eye. On the return, the party take a luncheon with me in camp, & we take a five o'clock dinner with Dr. Bigsby and the mess. In the morning Mr. Ferguson proceeded to Sandwich and took with him a letter from me 356 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY to Mr. Stevenson acquainting him with our detention here on his account & the arrival of his stores & Doct'r Bigsby at this place & urging his joining our party forthwith. Mr. Ferguson returns without having found Mr. Stevenson at Sandwich. Wednesday, July 4. Cool, clear and pleasant. Order an extra dinner &c, for the men. Col. Hawkins invites us to dine with him. Not know- ing how to apologize, accept. About 2 p.m. the steam boat comes down the river with a large party of ladies & gentlemen from Detroit, to spend the day in festivity on board. I join the party for a little time, find there many acquaintances, and have much difficulty in declining their solicitations to remain. A band of music, the dance, the reading of the Declaration of Independ- ence, and a good dinner were the arrangements I witnessed for their day's celebration. Leave the boat a mile above Maiden, return to camp, and thence to dine with Col. Hawkins and mess. Return in the evening to camp & find that the men had enjoyed their frolic to such excess, as to be perfectly drown' d in sleep, whatever other causes may have drowned their better senses in the day. Thursday, July 5. Remain in camp. In the afternoon the steam boat passes down and get a packet of letters and papers from home. Capt. Stuart of Maiden visits me and brings with him as a present, his "Emigrants' Guide to Upper Canada." This gentleman is a retired Capt. of the E. India service, a zealous, religious devotee and has a settlement of blacks near him of about 20 huts, whom he has both colonized and evangelized. They are principally run- away negroes from the States (as is said). Friday, July 6. Call for Col. Hawkins, Dr. Bigsby & Mr. Jackson, and sail up the river to look at a snake imbedded in rock, according to the gentlemen of the garrison. It proves to be no snake, as I anticipated, but an inferior specimen of a similar formation that abounds in the rocks by Fort Erie, of the madrepore kind, probably. Return to Maiden and overtake Mr. Gibbs with a batteau and skiff, from Sandwich, where he left Mr. Stevenson, who had just arrived from the St. Clair. Mr. Gibbs, it seems, had been sent down by Mr. Stevenson, to return with a large cutter of theirs lying at Maiden, to bring him back with a quantity of provisions from Mcintosh's store. The batteau came down empty, and they have more stores now at Maiden than they require. In short, the whole of their stores intended for the season have but just arrived from Fort Erie, of which Mr. Stevenson had been apprized. The mis-management of this party throughout the season under the instructions of Mr. Thompson has been egregious. The absence of a principal has been of more serious disadvantage to the British party this season, than ever before — and the accounts of the year will verify my assertion. BOOK NINE 357 Our detention at this place for nine days, without the means of pro- ceeding to assist them in their unfinished work upon Lake Erie, as agreed, I know not how to ascribe to any other cause than gross neglect, or gross want of judgment in Mr. Stevenson. He was to have been here within a day or two of the time that we arrived, and he well knew that we could not proceed to their unfinished work without his presence to explain the nature of it, more particularly the points established by them for a Base Line measured by them in the Winter. Besides which Mr. Stevenson gave me notice thro' Doct'r Bigsby that his work was nearly done on the St. Clair, & that we need not come there to assist him, as I had proposed, a course we should have certainly pursued if any suspicion of this delay had existed. The cutter returns for Mr. Stevenson in the afternoon. Messrs. Gibbs and Pomeville go with it to Sandwich, Mr. Gibbs assuring me that he will exert himself to induce Mr. Stevenson to come down the river in the morning of tomorrow. Dine with Col. Hawkins and the gentlemen of the post. Saturday, July 7th. Remain in camp, anxiously waiting arrival of British party. Accept invitation from Col. Hawkins to meet them at dinner. Send apology by Messrs. Bird and Ferguson who dine with the mess. Stevenson does not arrive. Feeling much at loss how to account for his delay, Mr. Bird and myself conclude to ride to Sandwich on the morrow and ascertain the difficulty. Sunday, July 8th. Breakfast with Col. Hawkins whose hospitalities of this nature we find it impossible to decline. He agrees to accompany us to Sandwich in search of Mr. Stevenson. We set off in his tilbury hunting gig, with two horses tandem, in high style for this part of the country. It has a seat behind that enables us all to go in the same machine. Upon our arrival at Sandwich find Mr. Stevenson's camp of one Marquee and three Bell tents well arranged, and shortly after find him. He stated that he arrived there Thursday night very late; that Friday he sent Mr. Gibbs down to bring up a larger boat to take provi- sions from Mcintosh's store; that the day following was spent in clean- ing boat, in making some shirts for his men; and this day, being Sunday, seemed to be literally a day of rest altho the wind was free and fresh to run down the river. Mr. Stevenson had with him upon his arrival at Sandwich one large batteau and two skiffs. They certainly would have carried down all his provisions & articles in Mcintosh's store, instead of which he sent them down light & empty. Mr. Stevenson says that all this is in conformity to Mr. Thompson's instructions. We dine at Moy or near Mcintosh's at La Graves and return to Maiden by eight o'clock. Mr. Stevenson assures he will leave there early in the morning from Sandwich. 358 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Monday, July 9. Mr. Stevenson arrives about five o'clock p.m. from Sandwich and encamps there. Dine with Col. Hawkins. Mr. Stevenson says he will be ready to proceed to the lake tomorrow. Return to camp in the evening. Col. Hawkins, Capt. Reed, Bigsby and Stevenson take tea with me. Bird & Stevenson make their necessary arrangements as to the manner of conducting their work upon Lake Erie, so that we are now ready to proceed. Mr. Bird is to observe at the stations upon the islands, and Mr. Stevenson on the Canada main shore. Tuesday 10th Left Bois Blanc, came to Eastern Sister Wednesday 1 1 th Left Eastern Sister came to Point aux Pluis-Island 28th June Temp. 6 a.m 64 " noon 80 27th Temp, noon 75 " Coyle channel 62 Lake St. Clair 75 Temp. 4 p.m 78 Sun set 74 River Detroit water 75 May 13, 182 1 Received of Genl. Porter, to be used for the expenses of the party 1200. 1821 May 12 advanced Ned 10. " 13 pd. Higgins on pub acct 27.63 " 13th pd. Higgins for self 5.41 13th pd. Jacob for maintaining men .50 15th pd. Capt. Rogers of Stm. Boat Walk in the Water 140. May 23. pd. Clinton 3 dll. Bill to be exchanged for me & returned Preservative composition for animals, skins, &c. &c. 1 lb. arsenic 1 lb. burnt alum 2 lb. Tannersbark all in powder 1/2 lb. camphor 1 ounce musk all passed thro, a sieve, or in like proportion. BOOK TEN July 10, 1821 to June 22, 1823 Tuesday, July 10, 1 82 1 . Prepare to strike our tents and leave Bois Blanc Island for the unfinished section of survey amongst the islands nearest the Canada shore in Lake Erie, — Point aux Playes 1 section. About noon the sailboat Sylph arrives at the camp. Employ her with master and boy, to remain with me whilst in this end of the lake, at three dollars per day. Send to Amherstburgh the batteau that was borrowed of the British party at the commencement of the season. She was left at the King's wharf with the boats of their party. Write to Col. Hawkins to take leave and give him notice of return of batteau. ... By two o'clock all our camp's equipage is on board the Sylph & we set sail, taking our two boats, The Lady and Black Jack, in tow and soon run into the lake with a strong and fresh wind. By six o'clock come to at the Eastern Sister. Land some tents &c. By different contrivances pitch them on the heaps of rounded pebbles that form the beach, and remain for the night. Are obliged to encamp on the lee shore of this little island, on account of its being the only place where the camp equipage could be landed, and not having time before night to remove or carry the tents to any other part, nor in truth was there near us any spot of ground large enough for a tent, this end of the island consisting of a ridge of rolled stones supporting, however, a small growth of trees. Wednesday, July 1 ith. Find upon the Eastern Sister a black man. He proved to be a run-away from a Mr. Turner, at Louisville, Ken- tucky. He was kept here by a Mr. Horton, who lives on Point aux Playes Island and grows some corn and tobacco. The poor fellow left his master, not for freedom as he said, but for his cruelties, and would gladly return but for the fear of cruel punishment. We make an arrange- ment with this black man to light and keep up the fires wanted upon this island for observations. Shew him how to do it by building a pile of timber for him to fire the next night, and order him to continue the same until the return of a boat to him. This arrangement enables us to leave the Eastern Sister, and I most willingly embark from this wave- beaten, desolate island. Our habitation for the night was the counter- part of a shipwrecked crew. Our luggage strewed along a narrow and 1 Point Pelec. 360 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY stony beach and a few tents irregularly pitch'd, with scarcely more space than was requisite to keep the heavy surf that was running from washing our feet, was the manner of our night's residence. To have penetrated the bush, would have subjected us to the greater evil of confined air and clouds of musquitoes. By nine o'clock we leave the Eastern Sister, and soon afterwards come to in a bay on the N.E. side of Point aux Playes Island. Mr. Bird and party proceed to establish his station, and prepare his signal fire pile, and I proceed with the boats to a house and clearing in the bay, where I find two men, working a farm for a Mr. McCormick. This McCormick, it seems, has an Indian title for the island. The bank at this place is high and in front of the house is a little enclosure that I occupy as an encamping ground, and soon have our camp comfortably and well arranged. At night the wind rises. The Sylph is obliged to get underway and run elsewhere for a harbor. The wind is so high that it is thought useless to light the fires for observations. The party remains in camp. We do not see any fires upon the Canada shore, to indicate Mr. Stevenson's arrival there, as expected. Thursday, July 12. Party employed in the morning preparing a large fire pile on the point by McCormick's (Point aux Playes Island) & clearing away so as to see the Eastern Sister from same place, this point being about 30 ft. above the water level. In the afternoon Mr. Bird goes over to Point aux Playes to observe with Mr. Stevenson, or in his absence to make a signal fire and observe himself at that point. Mr. Ferguson remains on the island to observe. At night discover two fires on the Canada shore, one on the Eastern Sister, lighted by the black man, and we have two upon this island, N. and N.E. points. Mr. Ferguson succeeds very well in measuring the angles of all the stations from the one he occupied. The Sylph returned about noon from Put-in-Bay, where she had run for a harbor the night before. Point aux Playes Island has hitherto been the best musk rat hunting ground about here. It consists of a large pro- portion of marsh, filled with long sedge, numerous points projecting in long narrow necks into the lake, affording protection and retreats for this description of animal. The island has upon it about 2,000 hogs and some cows, oxen & horses, belonging to McCormick & Horton. Horton occupies the S.E. end of the island beyond the marsh, McCormick the residue. Rattle snakes are numerous here, notwithstanding the hogs. They are of the large, yellow kind. The doctors in this country make use of the oil of the rattle snakes. I am told they apply it, externally in cases of bruises, sprains, &c: and that a physician at Maiden pays eight dollars per quart, for what is brought to him. It is also said to cure BOOK TEN 361 rheumatism. Horton, a settler upon this island, hunts the snakes for their oil and sells it in Maiden to the physicians. Friday, July 13. Remain upon Point aux Playes Island. At noon Mr. Bird returns from the Point aux Playes, where he found Mr. Stevenson, and the work progressing very well. Mr. Bird measures the angle from one end of the Base Line to the N.E. point of Point aux Playes Island before dark, the station pole being apparent. At night are in readiness to light the several fires intended, but a high wind rising makes it inexpedient. No fires are seen on the Canada shore, as we suppose for the same reason. The negro's fire upon the Eastern Sister was seen indistinctly. Saturday, July 14. We all remain upon Point aux Playes Island. In the afternoon send a boat to the Eastern Sister to guard against any neglect on the part of the negro in making his fire this night, with instructions to return on the morrow, in case we did not come there ourselves. Messrs. Bird and Ferguson repair to their respective stations for observation at night, and we are greatly disappointed in not discovering any fires lighted by Mr. Stevenson on the Canada shore. A laborer living here assures us that he has seen the fire of the fishing canoes on the opposite shore from this island. Have some doubt of this, but the distinctness with which we saw their first fires makes the present case the more unaccountable, the night being clear and calm. Sunday, July 15. In the morning we sail over to the Canada shore, in the Sylph, to learn the reason of last night's disappointment, and the state of things there. Find an Indian establishment upon the point, and an Indian who had been charged by Mr. Stevenson to light the fires. He stated that he did light one last night: that Mr. Stevenson told him to light two tomorrow night, one at each end of the Base Line, and had sent word to him not to fight any this night, it being Sunday, an unpardonable scruple, since it could be no affair of conscience with him; and because every day's delay subjected us to the almost certain diseases of this country that a few weeks will probably create. Employ this Indian to light his two fires for us this night, for which we pay him 50 cts. and promise him some provisions if he succeeds in lighting good ones. We return to our camp to a late dinner. At night succeed from McCormick's Point in seeing the fires at each end of the Base Line, and the angle is obtained. Mr. Ferguson from the other point only discovers one of the Indian's fires. Observe no fires further up the coast. A large one is lighted upon McCormick's Point, and another upon the Eastern Sister, by our party for Mr. Stevenson's use. Monday, July 16. The boat returns from the Eastern Sister. One of the crew (Ned) had an attack of the intermittent fever last night, the 362 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY first appearance of the disease amongst us this season. They state that the black man we found upon that island, and who had engaged to make fires for us there, had gone off. It is supposed some boat or vessel passing had stop'd, and that he was glad of an opportunity to abandon this solitary and dreary retreat. Mr. Horton, who cultivates the Eastern Sister, came over in our boat. Mr. Horton states that this island is over-stock'd with hogs; that they are so numerous as to be an injury; and that he would thank anybody to carry away two hundred head without cost. He offers as many roasters as our men can catch or shoot. This is abundance unparalleled in my experience of stock upon farms. Their disappointment in procuring pork barrels sufficient the last Winter, is the cause of the present super-abundance. Send out two men with guns to hunt pigs; they are so wild as not to be taken in any other manner. They accompany Horton home, and bring me a phial of the rattle snake oil. He sells it at a dollar per gill. Its most common use is for rheumatism. He describes it as a very powerful laxative to the muscles, tendons, &c. and says that an uncle of his by the too profuse (use) of it for rheumatism, lost the use of his joints forever. They became distorted by cramp. It is used in small quantities, oiling the part affected by a feather, &c. It is rapidly absorbed. Mr. Bird leaves camp upon Point aux Playes after dinner for the Eastern Sister, with The Lady and his boat's crew. Send the Sylph across to the Canada shore with Clinton & an extra hand in the direction of Fox's in the bay, where is a station fire difficult to be seen, and of much importance, with instructions to request that it may be made very large. This fire being seen connects our work, and we hope will enable us to complete it speedily. In the afternoon a heavy shower & gust of wind with thunder and lightning. It ceases to rain in the evening and Mr. Ferguson succeeds in discovering from McCormick's Point three fires on the Canada shore; the important one near Fox's and the two at the Base Line. He also lights a very large fire, to be seen from same places if desired, and from the Eastern Sister. During the night we have a continuance of heavy showers, with thunder and lightning and high winds. The Sylph being on a lee shore, feel anxious for her safety. The gale continues thro' the night with great violence, and fear in case the Sylph did not make a harbor, that she must have stranded. Tuesday, July 17. Gale continues with rain from the S.W. The Sylph does not return, nor can we see her upon the opposite coast. In the afternoon Clinton and Stannard, who went out in the Sylph, return to camp across the island, and state that they have just landed from the Sylph, having narrowly escaped shipwreck; that during the BOOK TEN 363 whole of the night they had been endeavoring to beat off the coast and attempt to weather Point aux Playes on one tack, or Stockwell's Point on the other; that they soon carried away so much of their rigging as to be without the use of the main sail and, finding that they were losing ground, the Capt. had resolved to beach his boat, but the gleam of day inspired them with hope; they kept under way until finding all exertions vain, they tried to hold by their anchor, and fortunately rode out the gale. All the hands save the Captain were worn down with fatigue, fasting and seasickness. The storm throughout the night was terrible, the wind and rain heavy, and the thunder and lightning incessant. They remained at anchor 'til about one o'clock this day when the wind changing a little to the N. they run over to this island and came to in the lee of a point. The gale however, continues and in the evening the wind shifts to the N.W. During the night it blows violently and some rain. The Sylph becomes again exposed on a lee shore, and have strong apprehensions for her safety. Our provisions are on board the Sylph. Wednesday, July 18th. Cloudy, gale continues from the N.W. Send off Clinton and three men to the aid of the Sylph. They go to the bay where she was left at anchor, but see nothing of her. Conclude she got under way during the night and ran either for the Put-in-Bay Islands or the lake at large. We are thus left upon this island without a boat of any description & with little provision. Take a ramble in the afternoon around the West point of the island. On McCormick's Point is a ridge of lime stone rock about 40 ft. above the lake, in which abound shells petrified of several kinds, and many madrepores, generally resembling the handsome madrepores found near Buffalo, but not so well raised from the stone. This ridge of rock is in place. In other parts of the island the stratified limestone rock is exposed on the beach. It is the base of the island and shelves into the lake at a small angle. Roll'd masses of shell lime stone (blue) are found on the W. end of the island that differ from the shell lime stone in place. The land is very good upon this (McCormick's) point, and lies hand- somely upon the lake. Timber, maple, hickory, elm, &c. In the evening The Lady with two of her crew arrives. She was sent by Mr. Bird from the Eastern Sister in the morning to Put-in-Bay for provisions, he being in want. Found there the Sylph; took to him some provisions, and brought us some in case of need, and gave us the first intimation of the safety of the Sylph & stores. Thursday, July 19th. The Sylph arrives at our camp soon after sunrise, having made the Put-in-Bay harbor during the gale the day before. Strike our tents and proceed to the Eastern Sister. Find that Mr. 364 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Bird had cleared a pleasant and dry spot on the N. end of the island. We establish ourselves here. Mr. Ferguson proceeds to the Canada shore to discover the cause of the want of fires there at StockwelPs Point & below, and to build them and observe himself. He does so at Stockwell's Point, Mr. Stevenson not having reached there. Mr. Bird remains upon the Eastern Sister, and at night we see the fires at Stockwell's, at Lightler, at the Middle Sister and Point aux Playes Island, and he measures the angles of all of them. The fire at Stockwell's he was obliged to observe with a sextant from the top of a tree! It was impossible to see it, at this distance & from this low island by any other means, and this is deemed better than none. Friday, July 20th. I set out in the morning with the Sylph on a cruise to Strontian Island and Put-in-Bay. Mr. Bird proceeds to the Middle Sister to observe at night. Reach Strontian Island by noon. Run the vessel under the Strontian vein and deliberately explore it. Find no other cell or hole in the vein containing distinct chrystals than the one heretofore noticed. Open it entirely to view and empty it of all the detached chrystals, in quantity about a bushel. Find some larger than heretofore found. The largest must weigh about 7 lbs ! Take away all of the chrystals that this cell contained. It was monopolizing in a measure this beautiful mineral, but I considered it the best way of placing it in proper hands, and saving good things from the waste of waters or common dissolution and loss. Proceed from thence to Put-in-Bay. Remain there during the night. Find the settlers here destitute of any kind of vegetables. Sleep in Hill's House, called the tavern of the island. Am glad to spread my cloak over her bed, altho she had done me the especial favor to order one clean sheet put on the bed, in honor of the stranger! Rest tolerably com- fortable. Put-in-Bay is the best harbor in Lake Erie. North, South & Middle Basse Island with Ballast Island form the groupe, that affords shelter from all winds, besides which there is a bay in South Basse, with a high cliff or island, called Gibraltar, in its mouth, that forms a retreat where no winds can harm a birch canoe, and of considerable depth. The soundings are upon an average in this groupe five or six fathoms, and the shores bold & the passes between them safe & direct. West & N.W. lie Strontian and Rattle Snake Island, which complete the groupe. The killed of the two fleets that were engaged upon this lake during the war, were buried in the depth of Put-in-Bay, behind Gibraltar & near Johnson's house. The ordinary tumuli that designate graves are to be seen, but neither monument nor gravestone marks the spot where the poor fellows lie, upon whose dust Perry's fame will live forever & the prowess of American skill & valor fill a fair page in the history of BOOK TEN 365 my country. 'Tis true neither marbles or sculpture could heighten or perpetuate either, but the fate of the gallant soldier or sailor who falls for the pride & glory of his countrymen deserves from them at least what common friendship & distant kindred usually grant in the com- mon walks of life. 'Tis also true that it is nobody's business to mark this spot, or in other words "what is everybody's is nobody's business." The traveller there shall make amends; & when we visit the place of your shades, may your spirits rejoice in the consciousness of noble deeds, and the train of consolations that grow out of them; may you rejoice in the blessings he wishes you, and rest in the peace that the gallant and Christian warrior merits and receives. Put-in-Bay Island is rather too stony to be called a fertile island. Its excellent harbor, however, marks it as a place of future consequence. The North Basse is considered the best, and the Western Sister called the most valuable in point of soil of any in the lake. The Basse Islands belonged to the Connecticut Reserve; and are now owned by gentlemen of that State. The Edwards own the Put-in-Bays and Gen'l Champion 1 the N. Basse, &c. Saturday, July 2 1 . Visit the cave upon Put-in-Bay Island. The pass into the cave is difficult. You enter after the first descent of 5 or 6 ft. by the side of a shelving rock and bank of clay, allowing only space suffi- cient for the body. The cave then spreads into an oval of about 200 ft. longest diameter, and terminates in another ledge under which you see the water and cannot penetrate because of its depth. The extent is of course unknown. The water is said to rise and fall with the lake, and it is probable that large fissures extend from the cave to the lake. In short, the base of the island is a loose, stratified lime stone; the shores mostly of perpendicular cliffs & in many places the water has worked under the cliffs for a considerable extent, forming so many caves on the shore. The stalactites in the cave are mostly small, but the stalagmites are very large & seem in some places to have formed many feet thick upon the bottom of the cave, and as the process goes on I know not why they will not eventually fill the cave. The roof is now about 6 ft. and }/o high in the center of its arch, which is regularly arched. The water in the cave is cool and beautifully limpid. So very limpid that the stranger will not think there is water before him until it is verified by the throwing of a stone or the plunging in as high as the arm-pits to the unwary, so dis- tinct is every object at the bottom. The cave must be entered with 1 Probably intended for Stephen Champlin, born November 1 7, 1 789, and who dis- tinguished himself as a naval officer on the lakes in the War of 1812. He died at Buffalo in 1870. 366 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY torches. They are made by the islanders of the hickory bark & answer well. My guide told me he had sometimes a difficulty to keep his torch burning in the cave, & that candles would not burn. Our lights burned very bright & free, nor was there any appearance of firedamp or bad air. Candles burnt well, and would have answered the purpose. There is a smaller cave, nearer the lake shore, upon the same island, that I did not visit. It is remarkable for nothing, but a limpid and cool stream or rather basin of water. Return with the Sylph to the Eastern Sister. Find there Messrs. Bird & Ferguson. The former had finished his observations from the Middle Sister, the latter had been to the Canada shore, and observed from Stockwell's Point. Found Mr. Stevenson lower down the shore. He had not seen our fire at Point aux Playes Island. Mr. Ferguson proceeds there & orders another for Mr. Stevenson. In the afternoon, Mr. Bird proceeds to the Canada shore to acquaint Mr. Stevenson of our having finished the survey of this section, finding it impracticable to connect the Middle Sister with the point at the mouth of the Detroit, it being so distant and low as not to be seen, sometimes even by daylight. The point is not deemed material because connected with our former surveys & the position of the middle island also previously ascertained, and now connected in every direction but with the Detroit. He acquaints Mr. Stevenson of our intended departure for Black Rock by the first opportunity. Sunday, July 22. Mr. Bird returns to camp from the Canada shore to breakfast. Strike our tents and proceed with the Sylph and our boats to Put-in-Bay, to take vessel, or wait the coming of steam boat, as cir- cumstances made it expedient. Find there the U. S. schooner Porcu- pine and schooner Hannah wind bound. Board the Porcupine but ascertain that she was bound to Erie, to be delivered up to the Naval officer there, not being required longer in the Revenue Department, and being considered not worth repair. Board the Hannah and take passage for all the men and the Steward in her. The men at 3 dlls. pr. man, and Clinton as cabin passenger, at 7 dlls., and our camp equipage at a freight of 50 cents per bbl., rated by its bulk. Intend myself with Messrs. Bird and Ferguson to take the steam boat. A heavy gale of wind rises from the N.E. We remain on board the Hannah. Discharge the Sylph, and, at the request of Capt. Haskins, accept his order in favor of Capt. Coit for the amount due him for the hire of the Sylph. Say 12 days at 3 dlls. pr. day, and pay Capt. Coit 36 dlls., taking his voucher for the same. Several schooners run into the bay during the storm. Capt. Stuart in his sail boat from Maiden arrives in the evening. Perceive that he did BOOK TEN 367 not know the harbor, and row off to him and carry him into the snug basin back of Hill's. He was bound upon a pious & charitable excursion. Was freighted with provisions for some poor people at Port Talbot on the Canada shore as a donation; and with religious tracts for sinners wheresoever he might find them. Take Gapt. Stuart on board the Hannah to tea with us; where he finds a dozen drunken, quarrelsome and blasphemous, disbanded soldiers, brot from Green Bay. He wit- nesses a shocking scene of iniquity and human debasement. He dis- tributes a large parcel of tracts in the vessel, and returns to his boat. Discharge Cooper the cook, and Hargrove, a boatman, who wish to go to Detroit. Pay them off and send them to Sandusky in the Sylph. The Sylph was built at Saybrook in Connecticut, and brought to this lake by a party of emigrants (ship carpenters) . When they could not sail, she was placed upon wheels. Monday, July 23. Storm continues violent from the N.E. with rain. Conclude that the steam boat cannot leave the Detroit. Remain on board the Hannah. Tuesday, July 24. Storm abated. Cloudy, wind light from S. Get under way about seven a.m. and run from Put-in-Bay into the lake, three schooners in company. Are soon met by a head wind from N.E.: afternoon showers. Wind rises at night from the S. and we run on our course at a good rate. Wednesday, July 25. Cloudy, wind light from the N. & W. During the night previous run about 60 miles with the land breeze, and at sun- rise are off Grand River. During the day wind too light to make much progress. In the evening we get a pleasant breeze from the land S.S.W. and run on our course at the rate of five or six miles an hour. At sun-set were off the peninsula at Erie: the schooners that left Put-in-Bay with us, all in sight. About midnight the wind comes ahead, and in the morning we are near Portland. Thursday, July 26. In the morning are off Portland. Wind ahead N.E. and remains so thro' the day. Cloudy and cool. Friday, July 27. In the morning are off Cattaraugus. Wind ahead N.E. About noon a light wind favors us, and we reach Buffalo Bay in the afternoon. Leave the Hannah in our small boats off Buffalo, and proceed to Black Rock, where we arrive about five p.m. Saturday, July 28. The Hannah drops down to Black Rock. Our camp equipage of all kinds is landed and placed under the charge of Clinton, the steward. Pay Capt. Coit of the Hannah 70 dlls. for trans- portation of our party, boats, camp equipage, stores, &c, &C. 1 1 The Diary shows no further entry until May 16, 1822: but the Journal, 46-50, 368 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY l822 Thursday, May 1 6. Leave New York for the Boundary Line, having been delayed in procuring a draftsman for the expedition until this date. Proceed in the steamer Chancellor Livingston. At West Point take in Mr. Whistler 1 who joins in capacity of draftsman. Same night leave the boat at New Burgh, for Ithaca & Cayuga. Travel constantly both day & night and arrive at Ithaca the evening of Saturday, May 18. Sunday, May 19. Remain at Ithaca, unable to proceed for want of conveyance, until about midnight, when the steam boat takes us over the Cayuga Lake. Monday, May 20. Arrive at Cayuga Bridge about 10 o'clock a.m., the stage having pass'd the main road 2 hours before for the West, so that instead of gaining we should have lost time by taking the New Burgh route, but for extra exertions. Employ waggons &c. and overtake the stage at Avon: at the Sennepee River to Lodge. Tuesday, May 2 1 . Leave Avon in the stage and arrive at Buffalo in the afternoon, and proceed to Black Rock. Wednesday, May 22. At Black Rock find that Mr. Ferguson had all things in readiness for the expedition. I charter the schooner Red Jacket for Mackina; to pay 200 dollars, and 2 dlls. per week for the board of four men; cabin to be found by the owners. Thursday, May 23. At Black Rock make various arrangements with Genl. Porter and about midnight we go on board vessel. Friday, May 24. About 1 o'clock a.m., get under way in the Red Jacket, Walker master, having on board Mr. Ferguson, Principal Surveyor Mr. Whistler, Draftsman Wells Miller ) Charles Stannard ) Boatmen Dan'l Stannard ) Spoor ) Put in to Dunkirk. Leave there in the evening and run on our course. Saturday, May 25. At night arrive at Sandusky. gives details of claims advanced by the British and the American Agents, respectively, to "islands lying in the mouth of the Detroit river," the American Agent claiming on December 5, 1821, Bois Blanc, Sugar and Stony islands, and the British the two latter. Two days later, Dec. 8, 1821, the British Agent is reported as claiming all three, a claim which the American Agent answered on Dec. 11, 1 82 1 . The British Agent again replied on Dec. 12, 1821, and Delafield again answered on Dec. 13, 1821 (the texts of these letters appear in Journal of July 24, 1822, pp. 62-108). 1 George Washington Whistler, soldier and engineer, born May 18, 1800, graduated West Point 1819, son of John Whistler and father of James Abbott McNeill Whistler, the artist. BOOK TEN 369 Sunday, May 26. In the evening arrive at Maiden and are be- calmed. Spend evening with Col. Hawkins of the 70th. Monday, May 27th. Arrive at Detroit. Tuesday, May 28th. At Detroit, becalmed. Dine with Gov. Cass. Wednesday, May 29. At Detroit, becalmed. Dine with Col. House. 1 Thursday, May 30. Leave Detroit; run to the islands and attempt the middle channel of the St. Clair. Night coming on, the Capt. aban- dons the plan & we arrive at the mouth of the old channel, wind bound. Found six feet water at the entrance on bar of middle channel, and probably more might have been found. We grounded the vessel how- ever on a sand bar, not finding the true channel, & Capt. Walker was unwilling to persevere. This channel is never used at this day: if prac- ticable it would be preferred because direct. Believe it is. Friday, May 31. Get under way at the mouth of the St. Clair, and find it impracticable to beat up the channel. Send a tow-line ashore, and after doubling the first point, are able to sail to near Point aux Chien. Tow by this point. We then run with a free and fresh wind about 20 miles and are again at night becalmed. Saturday, June 1. Run up the St. Clair with a fine breeze; and at eleven o'clock a.m. pass the rapids at Fort Gratiot and enter Lake Huron. Sunday, June 2. Are off Thunder Bay Islands at daybreak. The wind comes ahead (N.W.) with appearance of storm. Make the lee of Middle Island for a harbor — Land on middle island, and procure other specimens of the serpulite found here before. Find the trilobite and the corallium catenulatum and a worn orthocerutite; the two latter did not seem to belong here, and may have come from the N. E. part of the lake, where they abound. Monday, June 3. Arrive at Mackina in the night. Tuesday, June 4. At Mackina, store the provisions, and enter into an arrangement with Mr. Stuart of the American Fur Comp'y to supply us with a batteau, to procure the men wanted & to give Mr. Ferguson a credit to the amount of one thousand dollars, in case he should stand in need whilst in the Indian country. Mr. Stuart also gives Mr. Ferguson a letter of credit upon the partners & clerks of the Hudson's Bay Comp'y that he may meet with, should his necessities require their assistance. He will instruct his clerks in the Fond du Lac department to afford every assistance. Wednesday, June 5. At Mackina arranging stores for the expedi- tion. Reduce the barrels of whiskey, beans, peas, &c. to kegs. Dine 1 Colonel James House, born about 1775 and appointed to the United States Army from Pennsylvania. 370 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY with Capt. Legate. Spend evening with Col. Boyd, 1 Indian Agent. Thursday, June 6th. Mr. Stuart engages 2 men for the whole term of the expedition and the others (say three) for such period as the party may remain in the St. Mary's. Have everything in readiness for depar- ture. Friday, June 7. Send off the batteau. Messrs. Ferguson and Whistler proceed in their barge, and Messrs. Stuart and Agnew, Capt. Legate and myself sail in the Revenue cutter. We arrive at Drummond's Island at 2 o'clock p.m. and spend the day & night with Major Winnett of the 68th. Saturday, June 8th. Leave Major Winnett's at day break, and pro- ceed with a fair wind in Mr. Ferguson's barge up the St. Mary's, Capt. Legate and Mr. Stuart in company. Arrive at the Sault de St. Mary at sunset and encamp. Spend the evening with Mr. Johnson. Sunday, June 9. At the Sault St. Mary, dine & spend even'g with Mr. Johnson and family. His wife is a squaw, & he a gentleman that has seen much of the polite world & has lived at the Sault nearly 30 years as an Indian trader & raised a large family of children. His eldest daughter is the most accomplished and certainly of interesting manners. Very modest and gentle and soft in action and voice, to a degree scarcely consistent with the refinement of our most fashionable whites. Miss Charlotte is a fine-looking girl, without affectation. Eliza much of the squaw in looks, and consequently kept in the dark, altho equally well behaved with her sisters. The girls have been principally educated by the father. One son is in the Indian Department, and a polite man: the other a trader, and I am told unpromising. Visited the trading post & settlement on the Canada side of the St. Marie. Mr. Severight is at the Company's Post & Mr. Armentinger is an individual trader there of considerable capital. Monday, June 10. Captain Legate, Messrs. Stuart, Agnew, and myself set off early in the morning to visit the Grosse Cape or com- mencement of Lake Superior. Grosse Cape is a cliff at the entrance of the lake on the N. side, and Point Iroquois is opposite on the S. side. Grosse Cape is of granite rock in place, the granite being of different colors at different heights, becoming more compact and of finer texture toward its base. A high wind rising, prevented our reaching Point Iroquois, and we returned to the Sault St. Marie. Found that Mr. Ferguson had commenced his operations by establishing his Base Line, &c. Spend the evening in the interesting family of Mr. Johnson. Miss Jane 1 Colonel John P. Boyd is probably the person mentioned. BOOK TEN 371 presents me upon taking leave with some little marouches of sugar of their own make, and Mr. Johnson gives me some specimens of ore found about nine miles up the Garden River, that empties into the St. Mary. It was found by his son who stated that it was rent from the mountain by lightning and thus exposed: also some clay stones from same river. The ore is micaceous iron. Tuesday, June 11. At daybreak Capt. Legate & Knapp of the Rev- enue cutter and Mr. Stuart and myself leave the Sault St. Mary and arrive at Drummond's Island Post by one o'clock. Find there the detachment under Major Gaff, that came to relieve Major Winnet, who had been three years at the Post. We dine with Major Gaff & mess, Major Winnet and his officers being of the party. Spend the evening with Mr. Anderson the collector & sleep or to use the phrase of the island, "take a shake down" in Mr. Stuart's tent. Wednesday, June 12. Take leave of the Garrison at Drummond's Island and arrive at Mackina by two o'clock, having each day of our voyage, since our departure, been favored with fair winds. Major Win- nett and his command leave the Post at the same time in the American Schooner, Michigan. Thursday, June 13. Captain Legate and myself set off on a min- eralizing expedition around the island. Collect a considerable parcel of the blue and white veined agate that abounds on the shore, and are driven in by a storm. There is but one farm on the island, cultivated by a Mr. Douseman, l nearly the whole of it however is tillable & some of it rich. The timber has nearly disappeared, and the undergrowth alone remains. Capt. Legate had forbid the cutting of timber from about one half of the island, and in a few years there will be a good promise of fuel. The garrison, the Fur Comp'y and the residents procure their fuel from Bois Blanc Island. About 50 votes are given in at Mackina. Dine in the Fort with Capt. Legate. Friday, June 14. In the afternoon Col. Boyd, Capt. Knapp and myself go to Round Island opposite Mackina harbor. Nothing re- markable there in the mineral way, except the singularly striated lime- stone, like that of Drummond's Island, having deep & sharp indents or cells, and some of it having the indents filled up with a darker, cal- 1 Michael Douseman and Catherine, his wife, lived many years on the island of Mackinac. Of their seven children the oldest son, Hercules Louis Douseman, born there in 1 800, after education and business experience in the East, established himself at Prairie du Chien and became one of the wealthiest and most prominent Americans of the Northwest (Illustrated Handbook of the Historic House of Hercules L. Douse- man). 372 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY careous substance, in either case resembling the letters of Eastern languages. In the evening Capt. Roberts, of the British Navy, Mr. Jones and Mr. Childs arrive in a small cutter or sail boat, from the Naval Station at Penetanqueshin. Capt. Roberts has been two years at that Post, and expresses much delight in the change of scene, &c. Capt. Roberts informs me that he had with much care collected the birds that belong to his neighborhood, and prepared them for the British Museum. He could not speak of their peculiarities, but said there was a large number of beautiful red birds. Saturday, June 15. At Mackina. Meet the gentlemen from Pene- tanqueshin at Capt. Legate's to dinner, with the gentlemen of the place. Sunday, June 16. At Mackina. The British naval officers and others dine with Mr. Stuart, who kindly makes his house my home. Monday, June 1 7. At Mackina. The first warm or rather pleasant day since I arrived on Lake Huron. Two boats with furs from the Illinois arrive for the American Fur Co., the first in this season. Tuesday, June 18. 1 At Mackina, waiting steam boat: apple trees first in blossom this day. Wednesday, June 19. The steam boat arrives at Mackina in the afternoon. Thursday, June 20. In the evening leave Mackina in the steam boat Superior, Capt. Rogers. This boat has been built since December last: timber for her was cut in the Autumn: tonnage 346. Friday, June 2 1 . On board steam boat Superior on Lake Huron. Had not run more than 50 miles during the night, owing to the bad quality of the wood procured at Mackina. Several times during the night the boat stop'd for want of steam. The wood is split up in small pieces and answers much better. The power of the engine is estimated at about 60 horse power. Saturday, June 22. Arrive in the St. Clair River at 9 o'clock in the evening, having had calm weather over Lake Huron. Sunday, June 23. Arrive in Detroit at Yl P a st eleven a.m. Monday, June 24. Leave Detroit in the afternoon at 4 o'clock in the steamboat Superior. Tuesday, June 25. Run into Sandusky very early in the morning, having been obliged to wait for daylight to enter the harbor. Amongst the passengers are Barnabas Bidwell, an expelled member of the 1 On this same June 18, 1822, the Journal, pp. 123-128, records a compromise which meant agreement upon the boundary from St. Regis to Neebish Rapids, clearly denning the line. BOOK TEN 373 Parliament of Canada, and Col. Anderson of notoriety who was dis- tinguished at Washington, by an attempt to bribe Williams of North Carolina; Col. House, & Mrs. Cass &c, &c. make up the party. Leave Sandusky about 7 o'clock a.m. Arrive off Cleaveland at 4 p.m. Mrs. Cass, & party land at Cleaveland. Wednesday, June 26. Arrive off Erie about 8 o'clock a.m. Encoun- ter head winds. Some time in the night come to off Point Ebano. Thursday, June 27. At daybreak get under way from Point Ebano, and arrive in the new Buffalo harbor very early. Find at Buffalo Col. Brady 1 and his command on their way to the Sault St. Marie. Proceed to Black Rock. General Porter arrives from Utica, having signed the Report's Declaratory- of the Boundary Line &c. with Mr. Barclay. Friday, June 28. At Black Rock. Saturday, June 29. At Black Rock. The steam boat Superior sails from the Black Rock harbor with 250 soldiers of the 2d Infantry and all their baggage &c. Being well laden, she clears the bar, to the great gratification of the Buffalo residents. The harbor question between them and the Black Rock people has run to so high a pitch that either party would openly rejoice at any mishaps that might take place in the harbor of the other. The Black Rock people are about commencing the pier that they are to build by way of experi- ment in the rapids. Close accounts with Genl. Porter to this date; and make known to him the arrangements I had effected at Mackina with Mr. Stuart in behalf of Mr. Ferguson whilst absent in the North West. Give Gen'l Porter a copy of my letter of June 6th to Mr. Stuart, and copy of letter of instructions to Mr. Ferguson of same date. 2 Sunday, June 30. At Black Rock. Prepare to leave Black Rock. Send my bedding to Clinton's. Give in his care a large box of minerals to have forwarded &c. Receive from Gen'l Porter the maps wanted to complete the Bound- ary Line Portfolio, together with the report of the Commissioners describing the Boundary Line, to accompany the maps, which I am to arrange and deposit the whole in the Department of State. 3 Monday, July 1. Leave Black Rock and proceed to Lewistown for the purpose of returning by the way of the Ridge Road. Find no 1 Colonel Hugh Brady, born in July, 1 768 engaged much of his time in army matters in and about the Great Lakes. In 1835 placed in command of the department having Detroit as headquarters. 8 These two letters do not appear in Joseph Delafield's Mss. in the National Archives. ' These maps are now in the National Archives. 374 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY company on the American side at the Falls. Dine & spend the day at Lewistown. Tuesday, July 2. Am detained at Lewistown for the stage until 2 p.m. Enter the Niagara chasm and proceed upwards from the Lewis- town Ferry about half a mile. The rock of the great ridge or barrier is for this distance from its summit to the water, of a coarse gray sand stone. There is an appearance of its resting upon a red sand stone of finer grain. This is the only interesting geological fact that I observed, & is, I believe, not commonly known, the general opinion being that the rock of the great barrier is throughout of lime stone, as it is at the Falls. Have no knowledge where the lime stone connects with the sand stone. Leave Lewistown at 2 o'clock p.m. and ride 35 miles to Ridgeway to lodge. Wednesday, July 3. Proceed from Ridgeway to Rochester to dine, and thence to Canandaigua to lodge. Thursday, July 4. Proceed from Canandaigua to Geneva and stop for the day. Visit Goshany Creek and Falls. At this place there is a perpendicular cut thro' coarse slate of 70 or 80 ft. for the course of the river below the Falls. Organic remains of many varieties are found in beautiful preservation here, especially some non-descript bivalues. See collection. Friday, July 5. Proceed from Geneva & lodge at Manlius. Saturday, July 6. Proceed from Manlius thro' Utica and lodge at Little Falls on the Mohawk. Stop'd between Ghittiningo and Can- nasaraugus & near the creek by the former to view the fossil trees that appear on the side of the hill near Chittining. They are prostrate at the foot of the hill, and of an inclination nearly equal to that of the lower part of the hill. The trunks of three trees are distinct, altho much mutilated. Have been thrown down & by the operation of the waters that flow from the mountain have been petrified. The roots are still covered by earth, and no doubt when exposed would show the finest specimens of the process. The whole bank from the roots of the one tree to the others, and a little distance further, is converted into a calcareous tufa — There are appearances of wood opal, and the more solid parts of the tree when broken may afford good specimens. Sunday, July 7. Proceed from the Little Falls to Albany. Monday, July 8. Spend with friends in Troy. Tuesday, July 9. Proceed in steam boat Chancellor Livingston, to New York. Wednesday, July 10. Arrive in New York. 1 1 On July 24, 1822, a date for which no entry appears in the Diary, Major Dela- BOOK TEN 375 1823 Saturday, May 3. Leave New York in the steam boat, Chancellor Livingston on my way to Lake Erie & thence to the Lake of the Woods, to join & superintend the party (Messrs. Ferguson and Whistler) who had wintered in the Indian Country. Sunday, May 4. Arrive in Albany and after dinner ride to Troy to spend evening. Col. Pell accompanies me. Monday, May 5. Return from Troy to Albany. Receive from Cashier of Mechanics & Farmers Bank 2000 dlls. for Gen'l Porter & take the afternoons stage to Schenectady. Tuesday, May 6. Arrive in Utica at sun-set. A passage boat was in waiting at the Little Falls for such passengers as preferred. The quan- tity of ashes and flour on the banks of the canal very great, and ac- cumulating faster than it could be carried down the Mohawk in boats — In the evening see Mr. Varicks on the subject of the Jerseyfield lots. Wednesday, May 7. Leave Utica in the canal boat, Myron Holly. At Whitesboro take on board Judge Doty 1 of Michigan & his bride who prove my only agreeable companions. Are detained an hour by the breaking in of a culvert in the bed of the canal, sufficient strength having arrived for the purpose of temporary repair we proceed. Thursday, May 8. Continue on my route in the canal boat, nothing material occurring, except an entire change of passengers, except Judge Doty and Lady. Friday, May 9. Arrive at Rochester 9 o'clock a.m., having this morning pass'd the most interesting part of the canal between Utica & Rochester such as the Montezuma Flats, the great embankment of the Houdequot and the town of Lyons, the latter being at this day the prettiest village immediately upon the canal. Dine at Rochester. Ex- amine the new aqueduct works the arches of which are finished over the Sennepee. Did not think the masonry so good as it might be, more particularly the arches. It is of red sand stone, with some grey sand field presented to John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State, "the official Journal of Proceedings .... in execution of the Sixth Article" of the Treaty of Ghent, together with an elaborate series of detailed maps; all of which are still preserved in the Na- tional Archives in Washington. On Dec. 20, 1822, General Porter wrote that the American surveyors were at Fort William, in winter quarters. "Maj. Delafield or myself or perhaps both of us will proceed to join them as soon as the waters open in the Spring, and we have every reason to believe that we shall complete the survey in the course of the season" (Porter to Sect, of State, John Quincy Adams, Mss. in National Archives). 1 Judge James Duane Doty, born in Salem, Washington Co., New York, in 1799. He removed to Detroit, Michigan, in 181 8, accompanied Gen. Lewis Cass exploring the upper regions of the lakes. Governor of Wisconsin Territory, etc. 376 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY stone, quarried two miles down the river opposite Carthage. The grey sand stone when wet appeared to be friable and marly. Took specimens of each kind, in order to decide whether they are of the new or old red sand stone formation. In the afternoon we leave Rochester, and lodge at Clarkstown, 18 miles. Saturday, May 10. Leave Clarkstown and arrive at Lewistown about sun-set. Sunday, May 1 1 . Proceed from Lewistown to Black Rock. Break- fast at the Falls and accompany Mr. & Mrs. Doty to view them. Ob- serve some change in the American Fall, produced by the wearing away of the rocks about two thirds over, forming an indent. There was still a large snow-bank in the chasm on each side, directly by the Fall. Arrive at Black Rock in the afternoon. When on the Ridge Road, in- quired of several farmers who have resided there since the first settle- ment whether they have ever seen any evidences of the lake having left deposits of any kind on the N. side of the ridge, such as weeds and fish, hillocks of stone, as described by Mr. Clinton, and they all say, they have never seen any, and think he was misinformed. The moun- tain ridge (and not the Ridge Road) may have been the ancient boundary of the lake; the former indeed now bounds the lake in some places W. end or head of the lake at Ancaster in Canada, and from thence forming the Niagara barrier at Lewistown &c, it runs toward Aubourn, where it probably takes a more Southerly direction and con- nects with the Alleghany. The Ridge Road may have been a bar in the great lake, but could not be a boundary because it sinks into a swamp about Sodus. Of the lake levels, Capt. Rough says he has always observed that the waters rise after a succession of severe Winters, and that there is no periodical rise and fall of the lakes as stated; and that in four years previous to 1822 they fell as much as they had risen in seven years; that they are now rising again &c. He does not believe in the tide of the lakes: has been 25 years a navigator or resident by the lakes. From May 1 1 to Wednesday, May 2 1 remain at Black Rock pre- paring stores and outfit for the season. On the 20th collect my outfit at Thompson's warehouse, ready to put on board the Michigan, under the charge of David Lakeman who has been engaged to accompany me, for the season. His engagement commences on the 20th, and he is to receive 15 dlls. per month. Wednesday, May 2 1 . Leave Buffalo in the steam boat Superior for Detroit at 9 a.m. Arrive at Erie at 8 p.m. Before midnight proceed on our voyage. Thursday, May 22. In the preceding night encountered a heavy BOOK TEN 377 gale and sea ahead, and were obliged to return to Erie, and to remain throughout the day. In the evening proceed on our voyage. Friday, May 23. Touch at Payneville, Fairport and Cleaveland and at night arrive at Sandusky. Land at Sandusky, with the intent of visiting Strontian Island, for the purpose of getting a new supply of Sulph. of strontian, but finding no boat or vessel at Sandusky by which I might either proceed to the island or to Detroit, am compelled to return to the steam boat. Saturday, May 24th. Leave Sandusky about 2 a.m. and arrive at Detroit at 1 p.m. Lodge at Smith's. Sunday, May 25th. At Detroit. Monday, May 26th. At Detroit. Capt. Legate arrives from Mackinac on his way to West Point. He states that there was not the least appearance of vegetation at Mackinac; that there was floating ice about the island when he left there four days previous, and a snowbank in the rear of Mr. Stuart's house. At Detroit Mr. Abbott has peas in blossom, and the country looks well altho it is very wet. The past Winter is said to have been the coldest experienced for a long time. At Mackinac the mercury was 24 below zero several days in succession and at Detroit 15 below zero. The extreme at Green Bay was 34 below zero! Wait upon Governor Cass. Spend evening at Mrs. Biddle's who has a large party. At Mackinac extreme cold was 16 below zero. Tuesday, 27th May. At Detroit. Return visits from the officers of the Garrison, Majr. Stanton, 1 Capt. Zantringer, Messrs. Mellen, Gwynn, Abeel and Dr. Saterlee: 2 spend evening with Mrs. Cass who has a small party. Wednesday, May 28th. At Detroit waiting arrival of schooner Michigan. Dine with Capt. Zantringer at the Garrison mess &c. Capt. Legate and others sail from Detroit in schooner Tiger. Several gentle- men of the Garrison and others assure me of the fact of the Canadian horses being able to perform 20 miles in an hour (pacing) on the ice & of their having witnessed it the past Winter. It is only on the ice and rode by the Canadians that it can be done; over land they do not con- sider their rate very extraordinary. The last Winter there was a race 1 Major Henry Stanton, born in Vermont about 1 796, appointed Lieutenant of artillery June 29, 181 3, became military secretary to General George Izard in 1814. Commissioned Major May 13, 1820. Brevetted Brigadier General Jan. 1, 1847, for meritorious conduct in the Mexican War. * Dr. Richard Sherwood Satterlee, born Fairfield, Herkimer Co., New York, De- cember 6, 1798. Son of Major William Satterlee. He served many years as a surgeon in the United States Army. 378 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY for a distance of near 50 miles on the ice without stops, between two Canadian horses. Men were stationed to refresh the horses on the way by forcing snowballs in their mouths! They travelled from Detroit to Huron Point out and in. We were told of a man who came to Detroit from a distance of 40 miles on the ice in two hours, with one Canadian horse. It is true that the Canadians come from the River Raisin to Detroit on the ice, remain two or three hours in town, transact their business and return the same day, performing 72 miles with one horse. Notwithstanding these well vouched for wonders there were gentle- men present who were willing to bet that no horse could perform the 20 miles in an hour, and they were residents of Detroit & knew all that had been done. I found however that they founded their belief of winning in the idea that the distances had not been measured, and that the Canadians had over-rated the number of miles, not doubting the unexampled speed of the pacers on the ice, nor their ability to perform at that rate for a time less than an hour. Thursday, May 29. At Detroit, dine with Gov'r Cass. Friday, 30th & Saturday, 31. At Detroit. Sunday, June 1 . At Detroit. The Michigan arrives within two miles and is obliged to wait for a wind. The steam boat arrives with Col. Wool and others. Monday, June 2. At Detroit waiting wind. Dine with Majr. Biddle &c. Tuesday, June 3. At Detroit, wind bound. Wednesday, June 4. Sail from Detroit in the afternoon in the schooner Michigan, passengers Col. Wool, Major Gywnn, Capt. Whit- ing, Mr. Stone & others. Are becalmed and obliged to anchor abreast of Hog Island. Thursday, June 5. Proceed to the mouth of north channel of St. Clair, & are obliged to come to on account of head wind. Friday, June 6. At anchor at mouth of St. Clair. In the afternoon get under way, and are again becalmed at night in the river about 1 5 miles above Point aux Chien. Saturday, June 7. Proceed up the St. Clair with a light wind and about noon are met by a strong gale of wind N.E. ahead, & come to abreast of the upper island in the river, about ten miles from Fort Gratiot. Sunday, June 8th. Strong wind ahead: are obliged to remain at anchor. Monday, June 9th. Still becalmed in St. Clair River. Tuesday, June 10. Becalmed in the St. Clair 'til afternoon below Bunce's Mills. Land with several passengers & walk to the mills. They saw here pine timber &c. Much comes down the Black River, a few BOOK TEN 379 miles beyond this stream &c. Bunce has two small saw mills but not sufficient head of water for constant work. Return to the vessel and find her under way with a fair wind. Are obliged to send all hands ashore at the rapids and to warp up with a tow line with some difficulty. The Indians assist. The Indians are in camp here for the purpose of fishing. Sturgeon, trout and whitefish abound. The water was at this time very turbid, owing to the late gale and as the fish could not be seen the Indians made random thrusts with their spears on the shore into the rapid every two or three steps they took, and I saw a boy in half a dozen thrusts take two fish, an evidence that they must be very numerous in the rapids. I am told they take sturgeon in the same way during the night. Pigeons were also flying over the point in prodigious large flocks. We estimated one flock flying over the lake to be a mile in length. Fort Gratiot is without a garrison and now the residence of some missionaries, who teach & preach &c. In the evening a light & fair breeze rises, we enter the lake with promise of a good passage. Wednesday, June 1 1 . At noon are off Sagarina Bay. Wind fair & fresh. At night discover the islands about eight o'clock and are en- abled to take our course anew. Thursday, June 12. Made a good run in the preceding night, and in the afternoon have Bois Blanc Island on our lee. Wind dies away and are becalmed when we retire to rest abreast of Bois Blanc Island. The temperature of the lake water was this day 52 Far. on the surface. In the course of the day changes of temperature from warm to cold, with fogs coming up suddenly & suddenly disappearing. Friday, June 13. Arrive at Mackinac about daybreak. Mr. Stuart kindly invites me to make his house my home. Store my outfit in company warehouse, and make known that I want a crew &c. Saturday, June 14. Purchase a large bark canoe of Mr. Biddle with oars, paddles, poles, gum and war top. Engage Henry Vaillencourt, Joseph Socier & Joseph Sauve for the voyage to & from the Lake of the Woods and back to Mackina. Make other preparations for my voyage & obtain from American Fur Gompy. store divers small articles peculiar to voyages in the Indian Country not to be had readily elsewhere. Dine with Mr. Boyd & party. Sunday, June 15. At Mackina high wind from N.E. The schooner Jackson arrives with Judge and Mrs. Doty and Mr. Caine & other passengers. Monday, June 16. The morning proves most unfavorable for the traverse from Mackinac to Goose Island, a distance of nine miles in the open lake, that of course requires fine weather. Keep the men employed fitting canoe, gumming, making poles &c. 380 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Receive from Mr. Ferguson a packet containing maps of his surveys from Lake Superior to Lake Sa-ga-na-ga and a copy of his account of Fort William &c. Find some difficulty in keeping my Canadians together & all things being ready for a departure, I determine to commence my voyage. The appearances threaten thunder showers: but, having time enough before dark, being anxious to progress, and a start from a port with Canadians being equal to a day's march, I embark at 4 p.m., taking leave of several anxious friends at the landing, who seem'd to look, but did not say, that the young canoe voyageur had more courage than discretion. Make the traverse with perfect ease and safety, without en- countering the threatened storm, and encamp on Goose Island at sun-set and pass the night very comfortably. Subsequent experience in canoes has taught me that, in case the lake had been agitated by a rise of wind when I made this traverse, my canoe laden as it was, must have been swamped. Tuesday, June 17. At daybreak commence striking tents, lading canoe, having first gum'd her & repaired the row-lock that broke on the traverse yesterday; and after taking breakfast embark a little after sun-rise. At noon, being half way to Drummond's Island, encounter a heavy head sea, and high wind. Soon discover that the canoe is too heavily laden to weather it & perceiving that the steersman is not much skill'd and the crew frightened, order them to run before the wind for the shore, and make a landing. The canoe is unladen and encamp. Shortly after a change of wind enables me to proceed, & before I arrive at the Detour becomes fair and I sail to the mouth of the river & encamp for the night upon Frying-pan Island. This day's experience in a heavy canoe has been rather dishearten- ing, and conclude that, however pleasant the conveyance on smooth water, or in rivers, on large lakes, with high winds, there is no pleasure in the canoe, especially laden as mine is. Had the canoe been light, I should not have been so uncomfortable. Wednesday, June 18. Canoe is gum'd & laden, and I leave Frying- pan Island at sun-rise. A high wind prevents our making the usual traverse to St. Joseph's and am obliged to keep the coast, and traverse to the Isle a Grosse. Passing thro' Muddy Lake and Lake George, ar- rive at the little islands and rapids below the Sault two miles at dusk. After toiling up a long channel, discover that it is not the right one and return, to ascend another, that proves the usual one. Arrive at the Sault St. Marie at 10 o'clock p.m. It being quite dark, and not knowing what changes had taken place there since the Garrison had taken possession, encamp in front of Mr. Johnson's house, leaving my pro- visions on his dock & the men to sleep by it. BOOK TEN 381 Thursday, June 19. It being necessary to employ a skillful guide and steersman for the voyage onward, cross to the Hudson's Bay Compy. House & Mr. Severight of the House and Mr. Armintinger, who re- sides on that side, undertake to find the men I want. Discharge and pay Andrew Vassairt, who engaged only to this place, & also discharge and pay Henry Vallaincourt, who insisted upon taking more bedding & a pillow &c. than I could allow. He had some other reason to wish to be discharged, I presume. Engage Joseph Fountain as Steersman at 20 dlls. pr. mo., a blanket and portage collar as equipment. Breakfast and dine with Col. Law- rence, Commanding Officer, and tea at Mr. Johnson's. Friday, June 20th. Detained at the Sault for want of men. Engage Brisbois as guide or foreman at 21 dlls. pr. mo., blanket and portage collar for equipment. Dine and spend evening at Mr. Johnson's, who gives me the beaver tails well dress'd, that I eat for the first time. They are very rich & a dainty. Send my canoe and provisions over the por- tage on the British side for the purpose of keeping my crew together, in charge of Lakeman. At night rain. Saturday, June 21. A heavy storm of rain with wind, detains me at the Sault. Pass the time at the Commanding Officer's. Col. Law- rence is extremely dissatisfied with his command. He calls the Garrison a fatigue party solely, & the wives and children of his officers, he says, convert the whole into a nursery. Visit my camp on the opposite shore and find all things in order to depart when the storm abates. Sunday, June 22. The storm continues & detains me at the Sault St. Marie. It is so cold that we have large fires in the Garrison. Visit the few Indian wigwams that are here. At one of them I observe a white flag, and a piece of tobacco hanging with it, on a pole. Inquire the meaning, and am told that the Indian dreamed that the bad spirit was coming after him, and that this was his peace offering. Yesterday the brig Wellington arrived on the opposite side with supplies for Mr. Thompson for the season, in charge of Pomenville. Mr. Thompson had proceeded on Lake Superior a few days before, having procured some provisions at Drummond's Island. Pomenville concluded to leave the stores at the Compy. House and return. The same failure and a similar double supply occurr'd by reason of this manner of arrangement, the season before the last with Mr. Thompson. Mr. Bayfield 1 sailed in the schooner Recover, for Ft. William on the 20th. His barges two under the charge of Mr. Collins coasted the lake. Mr. Bayfield, who is engaged in a survey of the lakes by direction of the 1 Henry VVolsey Bayfield, born in Hull, Jan. 21, 1795. British naval officer. Made surveys in the Great Lakes. 382 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY British Board of Admiralty, has chartered this schooner for that service. He expects to be three years completing his surveys in Lake Superior & has made his estimates for supplies accordingly. The labors performed by the officers and men at the Sault since their arrival last summer have been very great. The barracks, which are extensive, are good Winter quarters. The whole are picketed in; and the presence of 250 soldiers has drawn to this place a dozen storekeepers, who have put up their buildings, and given an entirely new aspect to the place. Pencil notes at back of Book io: 1 highest about 40 ft. above the lake, with other indications of the lake having at some time been that much higher, such as curved lines, etc. worn in the granite. My waiter ascended the precipice and bro't from its summit a fragment that proved to be green stone like the base, with an approach to chlorite slate in one of his specimens. He also bro't specimens from different elevations that proved alike. Tempe. at noon 56 . Cloudy, wind E. Sunday, June 29. Wind N.W., light. Embark at 5 o'clock. Descend the Michipicoten Bay 15 m. & traverse the bay 9 miles & pass along its N. side about W. 20 m. to its extreme W. point opposite which lies a large and moun- tainous island, known as Michipicoten. Canoe that left the Sault before us, having made an earlier start come up with us. We fall in with a trader's canoe for Ft. William & see a batteau & canoe ashore all in the bay. The trader's canoe goes ahead of us. Temp, at 9 a.m. 49 Of the water near the shore & 6 ft. deep was 44 on the surface. On the N. side of the bay observed on the mountains two cascades the one a pretty large river that tumbled down the mountain in great fury. A few hundred yards only could be seen, when it is lost in the caverns. At a distance this cascade appeared like a large white rock, & so my guide call'd it. When within 6 or 8 miles I found it to be a cataract. The green stone extends as far down the S. side of Michipicoten as I went. On the N. side where I traversed we came out upon granite, containing horn- blende & little if any mica with large masses of white quartz. Soon reach the green stone again having seams of white quartz. In the afternoon pass a very high precipice for 9 m. without perceiving any harbor. It was green stone but some times assumed a stratified appearance. It was remarkable for its associa- tion with granite in veins, dikes & irregular masses. The green stone prevailing. In one instance a vein vertical of epidote, epidote rather more abundant than heretofore; also a dike of the basalt-like rocks wherever past at the angle where we changed course from S.W. to W. Since then the granite & green stone for- mation have appeared alternately with exact lines of separation & so continued for a few miles & then the green stone prevails. Observed several little streams that empty themselves thro' the chasms in the 1 These pencil notes are the basis of the entries in ink for the same dates in Book Eleven. They were probably made at a time when pen and ink were not available. BOOK TEN 383 mountains & infer from the color of the water (dark) that some large stream must be nigh. Ice on the lake this night. Have travelled this day about 65 m. Temp, at sunset 49 , the Lake. Encamp in a little bay where two small streams enter Monday, June 30. Embark at ]/* past 5 o'clock. Clear & pleasant, wind S.E. The night previous there was a sharp frost that did not disappear til after sunrise. Run about 36 m. with sails & oars, passing one of the canoes that sailed in Co. yesterday. The coast continues as yesterday, except there is more beach, the landing places more numerous & the cliffs not so precipitous. The rock formations continue the same. Pass a remarkable rock called by the Indians the Otter Rock because it looks like an otter leaping from the water. It is an angular column & has the appearance of being a rhombic fragment of green stone standing on its smallest end, and is perhaps 50 feet high. The base is hidden in the growth of small wood on the mountain. It is called the half way point between the Sault and Fort William by the voyageurs. They all however overrate distances. The lake water had difference in color this day in several places, some times looking black and clear, like small pools of rain-water when deep, at other times looking the light green of the other lakes. Near the Otter Rock, a river empties into the lake down the side of the mountain in three channels forming very pretty cataracts, but not so handsome as the distant view of the cataract in Michipicoten Bay that seems like a white rock formation in the middle of the mountains, it being lost in the woods as well below as on every side. Have travelled about 60 m. this day. The granite rocks have prevailed. Indeed, the green stone for the last 50 m. has appeared in dikes in the granite, always vertical & distincdy marked. The veins generally run N. and S. and vary in width from one yard to forty. Encamp yi hour before sun set, in company with a canoe bound to Red River. The gentlemen take tea with me. Tuesday, July 1 . Embark. Sun half an hour hi^h. Clear, calm and temper- ate. Pass the trading post called the Peake, situate at mouth of river of same name. There is a good looking house there, with outhouses for stores, &c, within the pickets, that also look substantial. There is a group of rocky islands just N. of the Fort, very small, and several large ones very high & rocky about seven miles N.N.W. The water around the mouth of the Peake River is very foul, coloring the lake about one mile each side and several miles into the lake. The river water appears to be lighter than the lake water, and when you ap- proach the line of junction the blade of the oar dips thro' the yellow water on the surface, throwing up the bright water below, having a strange appearance. Then pass by & inside of several mountainous islands, some several miles, say 10 or 12, long, others a mountain rock. The islands generally lie N. & S. The mountain ranges on the coast seem to run parallel with the shore. They all consist in this day's journey of a highly crystalline granite having much horn- blende, litde quartz and no mica. Encamp however in the green stone region again. The importance of an experienced guide was verified this evening. We had a twelve mile traverse before us & would require til sunset to make it. The distant point seemed rocky cliffs, without landing places. Old Brisbois 384 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY said, go on, the only encamping place is by that point & just before we reached it, he guided us round a point of rocks that led to a little basin ending with a stone beach so completely land locked that the canoe was anchored with boughs of trees without unlading. The mosquitoes were very annoying til 9 o'clock, when the cold night dispersed them. Wednesday, July 2. Embark at 5 o'clock. Clear and calm, Temp, of Atmos. at 8 o'clock 46 & of lake one foot from surface but near the shore & shallow 44°. Granite with more quartz than yesterday, still much hornblende & no mica. Pass a stream, tumbling as usual by rapids into the lake, and 6 or 7 miles back observe a smoke like mist in the mountains caused by this stream where it makes some great fall of 100 or more ft. Observe a ridge between two peakes of the granite chain that lies nearly on a level for its distance of two miles, the only level that I had seen of the lake coast. It descends to the lake by four steps, & is in regular ridges, overlying each other to its ascent of 200 ft. Is covered with a green coat, of probably briars: whether rock is in place or roll'd stones is uncertain. The mountains are not seen to rise behind it. After noon pass thro a chain of islands. The country assumes a milder aspect. The inclination of the hills & mountains is more gentle. The islands are mostly elliptical in shape and perhaps twenty in number extending about as many, or more miles. They stretch across a deep bay that we leave on our right, saving by the traverse thro the islands a long distance. The day has been calm and temperate. Before sun set it becomes cloudy, cool & fresh wind from S.E., dampening the promise of tomorrow's travel. In this bay it is said the river empties that leads to Hudson's Bay. Encamp on an island, the worst camping place yet occupied & if the wind had caused any surf should have been driven from it. Thursday, Julv 3. Cloudy, wind E. Embark little after sunrise. Continue to pass thro islands of different sizes, mostly conical hills, or a succession of cones. In some places the cliffs are mural and 4 or 500 ft. high. The river that empties into this bay is called the River Pierre Calamie. It connects by a chain of small lakes & portages with the Moore Factory on Hudson's Bay. My old guide tells me you ascend the waters for three weeks and then you descend about the same time to reach Hudson: so that the height of land is about half way. Brisbois says that there are one hundred and seventeen portages thro' the route, and that they are very rough and bad generally. He has been nine years in that country. Follow the course of a long island & between it & main shore to get out of the bay, & change our course from N.W. to W. and to S. to E. & back to S. W., rowing much of the way against a strong head wind from E. The men see a mink on the shore & by their call or squeak the mink swims toward us until frightened by another noise. The mink by this chirping noise may be called quite close to you. Ob- serve strong currents thro the islands. At Green Point, as called, there is a strong current and good white fish fishery. This point of the bay is, as far as I have seen, flat land, & for the first time on the lake I noticed a clay stratum under the sand of the point. The granite here is of that peculiar kind containing little spots of transparent quartz in reddish feldspar. It is in ridges & traversed by small veins of green stone and alternates with it in large ridges. Travel all BOOK TEN 385 the day amidst islands & in all courses. At 4 p.m. are enveloped in a thck. fog & obliged toi encamp, after having attempted to grope my way in vain. The day has been temperate & what of all things proved most disheartening was our inability to avail ourselves of a fair wind on account of the fog. Collect rock specimens & meet with the wild rose in bloom, that recalls some recollec- tions that tend to dissatisfy me with this dreary loneliness on the wide shores of Lake Superior. An early camp enabled me to reduce luggage and I got rid of a bread barrel & pork keg much to my relief, altho there remains but about two pounds of pork for the voyage to Fort William. During the night come very heavy thunder & high wind. Friday, July 4. A very high wind ahead S.E. Embark about 7 a.m. Are obliged to anchor the canoe part of the morning. Again embark & contend with a heavy rain & high sea thro' the day, passing the whole time amongst small islands & steering all courses, which alone enabled us to make any progress. Proceed probably 30 miles. The islands are of green stone & green- stone amygdaloids. Retain specimens, and among them a greenish translucent, crystallized substance that requires examination. This has been a most dreary day, with little to interest me in the surrounding country. My loneliness has amounted for some hours in this day to home- sickness. Get sight of the main shore & observe a continuation of similar mountains to those observed when I left abreast of Pierre Calamie Riviere, since which time we have pass'd amidst islands, some high and some low, with the exception of one point formed by a flat neck of land, that extended in the group a long ways. At sunset are abreast of a very large island that seems to run E. & W. called Des Isle Mulo, or some word so pronounced, that my guide thinks in English means Haystack. They have a story that large sums of money were buried there by the French who first pass'd this way & one of the Jesuits was killed at a near point by the savages. Some of the islands in this group rise in very regular cones & mounds, and there is one consisting of two regular mounds with a small space between, rising 3 or 400 ft. that the Indians aptly call the Woman's Breasts. Encamp on a little island near the last great traverse to Fort William. During the night constant rain, with high winds & much thunder & lightning. My tent so perfectly screened by trees & land locked in all directions that I suffer no manner of inconvenience. Many of the islands passed today are of green stone with more hornblende than heretofore. Saturday, July 5. Rain & high wind with fog prevent my departure til eleven o'clock. Pass from the islands to the main shore steering W., making a traverse of 12 miles. Leaving on the right or N.E. a very deep bay, called Great Black Bay of which could not see the depth so distant was the main shore. Find that the large island, called yesterday by the Frenchman Des Isles Mulo proved to be the Isle Royale. Pass a small island of stratified structure in lamina rather of one to 6 inches diameter of a bright red substance, occasionally having a vertical vein of part of its heighth of a yellow, clay-like substance to the eye. The island, or rather this red substance, was cap'd by a very regular horizontal surface of apparently green stone of about two feet thickness, the whole having a very interesting appearance, but could not stop to examine more particularly, much to my regret. Arrive at the N.E. Cape Tonnere, that is the very counter- 386 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY part in heighth, extent, columnar formation & debris with the Pallisadoes of the Hudson. No doubt are green stone. Cape Tonnere on passing its point proves to be a narrow spit projecting N. E. & S.W. into the lake, having similar mural & columnar precipices of each side. It reaches the lake by five very uniform steps or tables, to be seen only in profile. Are obliged to encamp on a little island in the bay not being able on account of a very strong gale to make the nine mile traverse to the island next toward the Fort. Overtake here the canoe that had travelled in company from the Sault, and 4 canoes with Indians from the Lake of the Woods and the Fort on their way to the Sault arrive & put up. They are better limbed, more healthy and better fed looking Indians than those I have been accustomed to see. The squaws dress a little differently. Instead of the shirt or short gown, their shoulders are bare and a small piece of cloth covers their bosoms secured by a narrow band over the shoulders, rather a graceful costume than otherwise. One of the men takes the vapor bath from hot stones covered in with buffalo robes, did not learn for what purpose, but observe from the heaps of stones which compose the apparatus about many of their encampments that it must be a common practice. Ascertain that the red stone island I saw in the morning was sand stone. The little island where I encamp is a fine-grained silicious slate, blue, dark. Sunday, July 6. Embark at 3 in the morning to make the traverse, fearing the wind might rise with the sun. This is a handsome bay, running generally E. & W., 25 m. deep. Has at its mouth on its N.W. several islands, one very high corresponding to Cape Tonnere. The Fort lies N.N.W. from Cape Tonnere & is a large establishment well picketed, with portcullis, block houses and bastions & has now some small artillery pieces mounted. Mr. Stewart is the Agent here, just relieved however, by Mr. McKensie. Breakfast & dine with Mr. Stewart & his mess. Purchase a North Canoe, so called, my Mackinac canoe being too heavy for the portages. Make other arrangements for the portages. The squaws stitch the boats with watap and the men boil the gum, &c. Monday, July 7. Clear & temperate. At Fort William making arrangements for my voyage. Heavy thunder showers & fogs. Canoe is gum'd as precaution. Wednesday, July 9th. Leave Ft. William. Thick fogs, river, flats, green stone. Mr. Stewart departs, graves, fogs, storm. Encamp at 2 p.m. half way to S. port, waves, new canoe. Thursday, July 10th. Foggy morning. Embark at six. Proceed about 3 miles & obliged to land on account of dense fog, not being able to ascertain the route. Distant thunder. Conclude to grope along the shore. Get lost. Suppose ourselves in Pigeon River from color of water. Get a glimpse of land for a moment and make a traverse by the compass. Land and explore. Find a deserted wigwam & Indian collar. Conclude it is Pt. aux Tantres, which is confirmed by map: afterwards proceed by map along shore. Have a strong head wind and lay in, making traverse to Pt. au Chapeau. The men delighted when they turn the point and feel certain that they are in the true road. Pt. Tantres is crystallized granite; Pt. Chapeau is green stone, and much of the green stone passed this day overlies green stone slate. There is much high land, and more low than heretofore. Arrive at the portage at 7 o'clock, after a day BOOK TEN 387 of fogs and uncertainties. Men were disposed to encamp, but have gained a day by perseverance. Courses & Distances, Lake Superior. From Sault St. Mary to Grosse Cape 15 miles N.W. Grosse Cap miles 15. Grosse Cap to Bigonte Bay 10. Extreme Cape to Cape of Bigonte Bay by the traverse N.N.W 25. About N 20. N.W 30. N.W. 18 m. N. 1/2 W.N.E. to Michipicoten 12 m 30. around Michipicoten 35. Cape to Cape bear N.E. or S.W. S.W. 9 m. W.S.W. 10. W.N.W. 10 64. N.N.W. 36 m. N. 34 60 N. 25. N.W. 25 50 N. 10 N.W. 25 W.N.W. 15 50. N.N.W.,S.E.&S.W. around the Islands 35. S.W. generally 30 m. among Islands 30. Fr. Grand portage to Ft. Wm 42. 496 June 1 9 pd. at Sault for ferriage 50 " " for two tin cups & 25 " 28 for carrying over portage at the Sault by extra hands 1 .50 Joseph Jervain mem. June 20th advanced Joseph for plant 2. " 20 advanced Brisbois 5. Sunday, July 22. Leave Eastern Sister and come to and Put in Bay on board Schr. Hannah. Discharge the Sylph. Discharge Cooper & Hargrove. Put luggage on board Hannah. Saturday, June 8. St. Joseph. Friday, June 7. Mackina & Drumnd. Thursday, June 6. Mackina, wages of men commence. Wednesday, 5th June. At Mackina. Tuesday, June 4. At Mackina. Monday, June 3. Arrive at Mac. at night. Tuesday, Wed. & Thursday at Mac. the 6th. Friday. Leave Mac. & lodge at Drumd. 7th. Saturday. Arrive at St. Mary. Sunday. At St. Mary — 9th. Monday. At Grosse Cape 10th. Tuesday, nth. Leave St Mary. BOOK ELEVEN June 23, 1823 t0 August 2, 1823 Monday, June 23. At the Sault St. Marie. Morning cloudy and dark, threatening rain, but anxious to depart, determine to cross to the British portage, where my canoe and crew- had been previously sent; and after taking breakfast with Mr. Russel & Lady, of the Garrison, and leave of Col. Lawrence, who had kindly made his quarters my home, cross in his barge to the Hudson's Bay Compy's House, where the Superintendent, Mr. Severight accompanies me over the portage, and about 10 a.m. I embark in my Mackinac canoe. The crew consisted of six men, the foreman (Brisbois), an ex- perienced old servant of the North West Co. engaged at 2 1 dlls. per mo., a steersman (Fontain), and four middle men, all Canadians ex- cept David Lakeman whom I took from Black Rock as a faithful man to take charge of stores, &c. and also as canoe-man. The steersman at 20 dlls. & middle men at 14 dlls. per month, had wages rather high on account of short term of engagement. My outfit being as complete as a canoe voyage will admit of, embark with increased confidence in my crew &c, as| improved after my departure from Mackinac. From the Compy's House, the course thro' the river to Gros Cap is N.W. The land, until you arrive at the Cap, is low and sandy, and notice on the shores large deposits of iron sand. The alluvial deposits in the St. Mary's correspond with those of all the other water communications between the lakes. In the St. Mary's the sand deposits are principally near the head of the river, commencing at Pt. aux Pins, & even nearer. Two miles below the rapids the river is very much chok'd by little flat islands with very narrow channels, so much so that in ascending it is difficult to distinguish the right boat channel. The St. Clair is likewise chok'd at its entrance, & the Detroit has flats & islands (alluvial) both at its mouth & entrance & the Niagara more especially at its entrance. Arrive at the Gros Cap 15 m. from the Sault against a strong wind and current at 2 p.m. The Gros Cap is of granite (sienite). It is peculiar, containing little or no mica, & the granite is in veins, so that small pieces shew only feldspar of a flesh color with hornblende & might be considered sienite. After passing the first high bluff, which is about 300 ft. high the rock becomes more compact and then a green stone amyg- BOOK ELEVEN 389 daloid containing epidote that is traversed by seams of white quartz & very much resembles the Nahant amygdaloid rock. The rock forma- tions of the coast are constantly changing in character as to the pro- portions of the several substances composing them, but are universally primitive. In some places the granite is peculiarly veined with seams of red feldspar crossing each other in various directions, giving the rock a net-like appearance & some that I noticed very much resembled the backs of terrapins in colors. At 4 p.m. a very dense fog envelops us and we are obliged to make the shore. Having passed the point of Bay Goute about 10 m. from Gros Cap, & being unable on account of both fog & wind to run down the bay for a camp, & land on a rocky shore with a high surf rolling, we encamp on the skirt of the wood. There is a little flat at this place, to the mountains in the rear, but the view is everywhere bounded by mountains. Hornblende rocks cover the shore mixed with red sand- stones. The epidotic amygdaloid & jasper breccia of Lake Huron occur rarely. The sand stone, highly crystalized is in place here lying at an angle of about 20 , and lies at the base of the granite and green stone mountains extending under the lake. Springs of very cold water every- where issue from the shores & the men remove the cobble stones at any part of the beach & it soon forms a basin of water & their wash tubs, that proved in this instance very convenient, because the surf ran so high that the shore could not be conveniently approached. Tuesday, June 24. Am obliged to remain encamped in bay 10 miles above Gros Cap, on account of the gale of wind. Keep the men employed in fitting camp equipage in various ways. Day and night cold. Wednesday, June 25. A dense fog prevents the guide attempting the traverse of the bay. At 9 a.m. order the canoe loaded, and attempt the traverse by the compass. After proceeding half an hour, a fresh wind from the N.W. disperses the fog, and we see the island and make it. About 5 m. from thence traverse to another island, when the wind becomes so strong that we are obliged to take shelter in its lee. Dine & explore the shores. Sand stones rolled cover the E. shores, the usual hornblende rocks cover the S. Observe masses of silicious pudding stone before noticed in Lake Huron, e situ & larger masses of the pseudo- volcanic rocks, those more particularly having cavities filled with calc spar, than I had before seen. Continue the traverse, the wind rises. See a canoe that left the Sault before us (Degrader) in a distant bay. A strong wind retards us, but we reach the other point of the bay which is 30 miles across, having travelled farther in making our traverses. There are six or seven islands in this bay and off its mouth. Encamp in a snug little bay in a pine grove, shewing the pleasantest 390 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY aspect of any spot since I left the Sault. A little bird sings by my tent 'til 9 o'clock, which was, I think, the only animal I had heard or seen since I left the river, save a mouse and a crow. In short, the region is so extremely barren & rocky that it could not apparently support the existence of any animals, always excepting musquitoes. Thursday, June 26. Embark at sunrise. First examining the rock formations of this place. The green stone prevails & is traversed by narrow veins of a white fibrous substance that is satin spar. The green stone also alternates with or perhaps may be said to be traversed by dykes of a very dark brown compact stone that may be called basalti- form greenstone. It also alternates with granite & I saw here the sili- cious conglomerate (coarse) terminating the granitic formations or rather overlying them as they sunk into the lake. The seams of satin spar in the green stone are two inches wide. White quartz also traversed the green stone. Ten miles further on the red granite prevails and mica in plates of considerable size occurred. The feldspar, quartz and mica of this spot were quite distinct, forming a well-characterized granite. The quartz white in seams & large blocks, the red feldspar also in large masses, and the green stone also traversed by quartz & intimately as- sociated with this formation gave the whole a striking appearance. The lake shore as far as can be seen is skirted by mountains. The day has been murky, with rain in the afternoon. The greater part of the coast has been frightfully rude, precipitous & dangerous for canoe navigation. The mural fronts of the rocks that bind the shores give evidence everywhere by their piles of debris and cavernous recesses, of storms that rage with no common fury. The very bright, flesh-color'd feldspar that occurs very frequently has given many parts of the shore a very gay appearance. Have travelled about 40 miles this day, and the solitude of my situ- ation, whenever the scene became monotonous, proved somewhat dis- heartening, rendering the long day truly dreary. Encamp at sunset in a little bay that fortunately affords a better shelter than any place I had seen in the course of the day. And here are the signs that the wind bound, weather driven, or weary voyageur always leaves behind him, such as extinguished fires, broken poles, &c, &c. Notice on the beach the recent tracks of the catamount. The course of the lake has been nearly due N. for 80 m. when you make a traverse N.W. In the course of the day passed several islands, small, and two 6 or 7 miles long. Observe the coarse silicious pudding-stone in place, terminating the granite in the lake and occasionally extending upward for 20 yards or so. Notice also a very curious direction of red feldspar veins, shooting like the roots of a pine tree thro' the green stone, looking like coarse net work, & sometimes the green stone was worn below these veins, BOOK ELEVEN 39i when they could be mistaken at a little distance for the dead roots of a tree cast on shore on the rocks. As I did not land at this place these singular net-like projections might be discolored quartz intersecting the dark green stone, but their reddish appearance induced me to con- sider them feldspar. Friday, June 27th. Storm subsides, the lake becomes smooth and at 10 a.m. embark. Temp, of lake on surface in shallow water 46 , of atmosphere at 1 1 a.m. 67 . The coast is more diversified than yesterday. Sometimes little islets or very large rocks skirt the shore & afford safe retreats. They are of green stone and granite and alternate like the main shore formations. The green stone which is frequently dark brown is often veined and irregularly spotted with white quartz, giving it a curious look. Veins of white quartz two feet thick sometimes vertically traverse these rocks. Meet an Indian in his canoe who gives me a salmon trout of 30 pounds weight, & some smok'd trout for a little corn and dram of whiskey. Pass two batteaux with furs & some Indian canoes from Michipicoten. A heavy storm of rain commences at 4 p.m. and are obliged to encamp. The five Canadians devour the whole of the 30 lb. trout except two or three & afterwards cook their corn. They are, with few exceptions, prodigious gluttons, eating like Indians, and never satisfied with anything, at the same time the most careless & probably the most happy people. They will work the whole day without eating, and eat and sing the whole night without sleeping: are the best of canoe-men & the worst to be managed without severity of any people I have had to deal with. The wood on the lake shore is generally of white birch and cedar of very stinted growth, seldom exceeding 4 inches diam. Saturday, June 28. High wind from S.E. Rain this previous night. Heavy clouds during day. Are again degrade at Cape Michipicoten. The Cape is about 500 ft. high a perpendicular green stone cliff. At the base it is compact & by its summit as elsewhere it runs into a chlorite slate. It contains as imbedded minerals large masses of horn- blende, calc spar, and white quartz. A little chlorite and feldspar were rarely associated with the calc spar. The green stone occasionally is ferruginous & brown. Sand stone again occurs in place at the level of the lake and base of Cape Michipicoten. It is at an angle of about 45 . It seems to alternate with or rest upon a highly crystalized granite, consisting of white quartz and red feldspar, in grains varying in size from a mustard seed to a pea, indeed, I was sometimes at a loss whether to call it sandstone or granite it became so compact, but generally dis- cerned the feldspar in this latter formation In one place this fine grained granite extended 40 or 50 ft. up the green stone precipice. The sand 392 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY stone I did not perceive much above the lake. At this place there are four ranges of worn pebbles, one above the other 6 or 8 ft., plainly in- dicating the wash of the lake at those several places at different times. The highest is about 40 ft. above present lake level. There are other in- dications of this fact above these ridges in the granite, such as worn curved lines. I sent a man to the summit of Michipicoten, who stated that the country in the rear consisted of similar mountain ranges as far as he could see, taking the same direction and elevation. He bro't me fragments of the rock from various elevations that proved similar to those described. Temp, at noon 56 . Cloudy, wind E. Sunday, June 29. Wind N.W., light. Embark at 5 o'clock. Descend the Michipicoten about 12 miles to make the traverse. The traverse is here 9 m. The bay is of considerable extent, having a river of same name emptying into it, and a very large and high island of same name off its N.W. cape. This river is the route to Moose Factory, Hudson's Bay. There is a Company trading house at the mouth of the river. In the highlands on W. side of the bay, saw a large white rock, as it was called, that proved to be upon nearer approach a very beautiful cas- cade or rapid. It was distant in the mountains 8 or 9 miles & issued from them, was again lost amongst them in its furious descent to the lake, sometimes sinking into deep chasms & only once coming to view as described. Saw one other but less cascade in same bay, glittering for a short distance in the highlands and again buried in their chasms. Have since heard these appearances asserted to be white rocks & there- fore doubt, altho' I used a glass. The green stone formation extends down the S. side of the bay as far as I descended, and at the point where I traversed to the N. side I came out upon the granite, containing more quartz, much hornblende & little or no mica as heretofore. Again arrive at the green stone on the N. W. side as usual with seams of white quartz. In the afternoon pass a range of lofty precipices of green stone of nine miles extent, the lake dashing at its base, and could perceive no probable place where the canoe could land, however great the necessity. This whole precipice was remarkable for its characteristic association with granite and al- ternation of green stone and granite, both traversed by white quartz veins & the former in more regular dykes than the granite. The green stone still prevailing. Saw a bright green vein of 4 or 5 inches diam. in the green stone that I considered, as I pass'd, to be epidote & the epi- dote was more abundant than before. Also a dyke of the basalt like rock, quite columnar, just at the point where the canoe course is changed from S.W. to W. Since then the granite and green stone BOOK ELEVEN 393 formations have appeared alternately with exact lines of separation for a few miles, and then green stone again prevails. Several small streams empty into the lake over rapids in the course of the day's journey, which was about 40 m., and conclude from the stained color of the water that a large stream must be nigh. Tempe. at sun set 49 . Ice on the lake in course of the night. The canoe that left the Sault before us came up this day. Encamp at sun set in a snug little bay. Mr. McTavish a trader at the Pic, pass'd us on his way to Fort William in a light canoe, paddled by Indians. Monday, June 30th. Clear and pleasant. Embark at half-past five o'clock. Wind S.E. The frost of last night was to be seen after sun rise. Run about 30 miles using both sails and paddles, passing one of the canoes that sailed in Go. yesterday. Breakfast in my canoe on cold pork with mustard and vinegar as a persuader, and some corn as des- sert, which with my hard bread made as good a breakfast as I cared for. The coast consists of the like rock formations as yesterday, and similar in all respects except that the cliffs were not quite so precipitous, the beaches more extended and consequently the landing places more fre- quent. Pass a very remarkable rock, called by the Indians the Otter's Head. It is an angular column erect on a high cliff. Its base was con- cealed in the light birch wood that covers these hills, but supposed its height to be about 40 ft. It is distant from the shore the eighth of a mile. It seems to be a four sided column, but of this fact could not well judge. Its summit was in a right line and formed an angle with its sides of 20 or 25 . I considered it to be in form that which the natural cleavage of the green stone assumes, and the result of debris. It is called the Otter's Head by the Indians because it looks as if it darted perpendicularly from the mountains, as the otter does from the water, when he rises from below its surface. It is of great notoriety & considered by the voyageurs to be the half way point between the Sault St. Marie and Fort William. Observe much of the lake water thro' this day's route to be stained by the streams that empty into it, and assuming various colors. Some- times it had the black color of rain water pools that are deep, sometimes the light green of the lower lakes, which seemed to be a mixture of the river and lake water, and sometimes the turbid water of the rivers. Near the Otter's Head a river empties into the lake by three rapids or falls of about 50 ft. height, that elsewhere would have seemed most grand and picturesque, and altho I enjoyed the view as beautiful, the satiety produced by repetition even to the sense of sight, denied the ad- 394 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY miration it deserved. It was by no means however so beautiful as the cataract in the mountains of Michipicoten Bay, or what I conceived to be such. Travelled this day about I o miles. The chain of mountains has been principally of granite, intersected by basaltiform green stone, which has now assumed a very regular and distinct form of dikes, vertical, and usually running N. & S., varying in width from one yard to 40 yards. Encamp at sunset in company with the canoe that had been fre- quently near us. It proved to be a party of free-men discharged by the Company and returning to their homes at the Red River of Lake Winnepec. A Mr. D'ease, 1 an individual trader, was returning with them to his home. They were a hardy looking crew, and the witches of Macbeth were never made a more outre group over their cauldron than these fellows did over theirs. Mr. D'ease takes tea with me, and seems much to enjoy it. Engagees of the Hudson's Bay Co. when their term of service is expired are called free-men. During the engagements they are slaves in a sense that none but Canadians could endure. In short, the more I see of the Canadian French, their mode of life, and connection with the Indians, the more I feel assured that without this very race of men, the fur trade of the North could not be carried on. They are more hardy than the Indian, are far more capable in the canoe, and in Winter will soon break down the Indian if travelling on snow shoes or with trains. Trains are little sleighs made up of a single piece of thin flat wood, bent up at one end in a curl. Upon it is placed the pro- visions &c. and it is drawn on the ice by men or dogs, as it may be. I picked up one this day on an island with a good cord and canvass oil'd cloth, that had no doubt been abandoned by some hardy trav- eller in the Winter, because his dogs or men had failed him. Tuesday, July 1 . Embark at sun rise. Calm and temperate. Pass the trading post called the Peake, at the mouth of a fine river of same name. It is an Indian name but could not ascertain its meaning. Mr. McTavish has charge of the post. Did not stop. It seemed well-picketed, and there was a capital dwelling house with several other houses &c. within the pickets. The Peake River is said to be free of obstruction for 90 miles, a fact perhaps not true of any other river in the North. We heard the noise of a shoot close by when at the fort on my return. It may, how- ever, be upon the river that is 3 miles E. of it. The rapids then com- mence. It winds very much thro' the valleys of mountains, and thence the absence of rapids. The water of the lake is stained for a great dis- tance by the outlet of the Peake. It is so much warmer and lighter than the lake water, that it scarcely mixes with it at all. Two miles either side 1 John Warren Dease. BOOK ELEVEN 395 of the river, I noticed the stained water to be lying a few inches deep over the cold bright water of the lake, and as the paddles displaced the one and exposed the other, it made a handsome illustration of the fact. Indeed, beyond Lake Superior the waters are much warmer. So much so that the voyageurs in preparing canoe gum for the lake, make it softer than the gum for the rivers, saying that the cold water of the lake cracks the gum, but the warm water of the interior will not, how- ever hard they may boil it. The islands become more numerous as I advance. Just N.W. of the Peake is a group of small, rocky islands with narrow channels thro' them; and then a large island, called the Peake Island; and a few miles further on, we leave another large and mountainous island, say 8 or 9 miles long and others that are naked rocks. The islands generally lie in this neighborhood nearly N. & S. The mountain ridges on the coast seem to run with the lake shore, i.e. generally N.W. but there is not sufficient uniformity in their courses to justify a general remark. About the Pic and Northwest for many miles the rock is the red granite alternating with green stone, highly crystalline, with much hornblende, little quartz, and no mica. Encamp, however, at sun set in the green stone region again. The importance of an experienced guide was strongly verified this evening. I had a twelve mile traverse to make which led to a point of high rocks, that seemed to forbid approach, and the sun was little more than an hour high. Too early to stop & too late to proceed without knowing that I could encamp, I referred to my old guide (Brisbois), who said "Yes Sir, by that point is a very good camp." When I reached it after sun set, & turned a rocky point nearer than the precipice we had steered for & conducted the canoe to a little beach in a deep basin just large enough to contain us, where we were so entirely screened that the canoe was anchored by boughs of trees without unlading in perfect safety for the night. The musquitoes were dreadfully annoying 'til about 9 o'clock, when the cold air dispersed them. Wednesday, July 2. Clear and calm. Embark at five o'clock. Temp, of atmos. at 8 o'clock a.m. 46 and of lake near the shore where it was shallow, and on the surface 44 . The granite with more quartz, much hornblende and no mica still continues. Pass a small stream tumbling over rapids into the lake, and 7 or 8 miles back perceive a mist in the mountains that is said to be the spray of the same stream where it makes a considerable fall. Between two of the granite ridges, notice a quite uniform and level embankment that connects them running with the course of the lake. The embank- ment descends to the lake by four steps, like ancient beaches or shores, and are all level. The whole rise nearly as high as the granite ridges. It was the only level I had seen on the lake, and whether it consisted of 396 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY round stones, or rock in place, could not ascertain, but conclude the former, on account of its regularity and steps. It was coated with a light brush, or bushes. About 250 ft. high. No land seen to rise behind it. In the afternoon sail thro' groups of rocky islands. The country as- sumes a less rude aspect. The mountains begin to have greater slopes, and the islands become inclined instead of mural. They increase very- much in number. We pass thro' a group of perhaps twenty that stretch across a deep bay, making a traverse of a long distance. At sun set encamp in a miserable place, on the shore of a flat little island covered with scraggy pine & cedar and briars, so that the pebbles of the shore are the only carpet for my tent. Its front within two feet of the water & its rear as nigh the woods, leave me no chance to ad- vance or retreat in case of trouble. A most unmilitary position, but most soldierly like maintained for want of a better. The lake being calm, pass a comfortable night. This is called the Pays Plat, which includes the group of islands lying in a great bay off the River Nipigon, at the mouth of which is found the pierre a calamie (or red pipe stone precisely like that from the Missouri). It is only like in color, this locality being a slaty, silicious rock. Could not visit it, but from all accounts believe it to be a horizontal stratum, underlying green stone and green stone slate. It does so & is itself green stone slate. The cliff is said to be very high (200 ft.) & the pierre a calamie is at the water's edge. Thursday, July 3. Cloudy, wind S.E. Embark at sun rise. Continue to pass thro' islands, mostly very high conical hills, or a succession of such hills in the same island. In some instances there are perpendicular cliffs, 50 to 300 ft. high. Believe them to be green stone, but could not reach the precipices (are red granite, red sand stone and green stone mixed). These islands still skirt the great bay into which a large river, called the Riviere Pierre Calamie, or Nipigo River empties, so called because the natives obtain pipe stone there. This river connects by a chain of lakes and portages with Hudson's Bay. My old guide says that you ascend about 20 days and descend as many to reach the Moose Factory with a heavy canoe, so that the height of land may be near half the way. The Canadian accounts of distances cannot be depended upon. Mr. McTavish tells me that he thinks he can go from Michipico- ten Bay to Hudson's Bay in six days. There are very many portages, and I should think it impossible. Suppose the distance 600 miles & it might be done with a light canoe in 10 or 12 days. (Mr. McTavish went & returned in 27 days to Michipicoten; did well as he afterwards told me, Sept. 1.) Brisbois says that by the Pierre Calamie Riviere route there are 1 1 7 portages, generally very rough & that he has been nine years in that region. Follow the course of a long island for many miles BOOK ELEVEN 397 in a narrow channel, changing our course to all points, the wind blow- ing very high, so that had it not been for the islands I should have been degrade. The men see a mink on the rocks. They call it by a squeaking noise & the mink jumps into the water and swims toward the canoe 'til it comes so near as to discern us, when it flies for safety. In the same way they call the large gulls around them, sailing in the air 40 or 50 yards distance; and also the loon is disposed to comply with their call of yole, yole, yole, but the rapid & clumsy bird cannot turn, much to the amusement of the men. They have in this manner calls for most wild animals, that the hunters practice to decoy them. In this group of islands there are strong currents, forming eddies by their points, where the Indians usually fish for white fish. The white fish of Lake Superior are said not to be so good as those of Mackinac. The salmon trout are very fine. Sturgeon are much eaten but the fat is too rank, otherwise the sturgeon would be delicate & good. A place called Gun- Point, which is formed by a long and flat neck of land pro- jecting into the lake amongst islands, affords a good fishery. This is the first extensive flat seen on the lake, and appears to be recent alluvial. It was sand & loam over a stiff clay. The granite of the islands in place here is of that peculiar kind that consists of brownish red feldspar & small dots of transparent quartz, of which I had before seen fragments on Lake Huron shores out of place. It varies in size of grains of quartz & becomes friable when weathered, looking very like some amygdaloids. It is in mountain ridges, traversed by small veins of greenstone, and alternates with the green stone in large ridges or mountains. At 4 p.m. are suddenly enveloped in so dense a fog that it proves in vain even to grope my way along the shore, much to my dissatisfaction, especially as the wind is fair and lake smooth. Are obliged to encamp. Have travelled all the day amidst islands. Collect the rock specimens, principally granites, and meet with the wild rose budding and in bloom, the wild pea, &c. An early camp enabled me to examine lug- gage, and I got rid of one flour barrel and one pork keg by consolida- tion, much to my comfort in the canoe. Heavy thunder and high wind during the night. This day's journey is in the part of the lake called the Pays Plat. There may be extensive flats between the ridges of mountains, but on the main shore I see mountain ridges limiting the view similar to those seen further East. It must take its name because the water is more shal- low here than in any part of the lake. The land or rather rock is every- where very high. Friday, July 4. A very high wind ahead S.E. Embark at 7 a.m., but 398 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY are soon obliged to land on account of wind. Again embark and con- tending with waves and winds advance thro' a group of islands, steer- ing all courses, so as to be in their lee, which alone enabled me to con- tinue the voyage. Proceeded about 30 miles. The islands that I landed upon or approached were green stone and green stone amygdaloids. Retain specimens. One variety of the amygdaloid differs from any that I had seen elsewhere. Its cavities contain prehnite in mammillary con- cretions. Have but one or two glimpses of the main shore, in the course of the day, and perceive the same ranges of highlands extending along the coast. The islands have been generally high in whole or in part. Some of them shew'd great perpendicular cliffs: others had uniform inclinations, and others were flat. At sun set are abreast of a very large island running nearly E. & W. that the men call Isle des Meule and say that it is the largest in the lake. Suspect it to be Isle Royal, and it after- wards proves to be so. I found experienced traders on the route, who had never heard of Isle Royal, & nobody seems to know any islands by the names of Phillipeaux, nor have I yet found any person that ever heard the mouth of the Pigeon River called Long Lake, as it is laid down on Mitchell's Map of 1775 1 . That map (used by the treaty makers of 1783) seems to have had so limited a circulation that the names arbitrarily laid down upon it have not prevailed. In truth, to this day, the first French names given, are in use, or more uniformly the Indian names. There are many fables still repeated to the traveller by the Canadian voyageurs concerning the first passage of the French Jesuits thro' these lakes. The most earnestly repeated one was their tradition of large sums of money being buried by them upon Isle Royal that never could be found. The others related to the murder of the Priests at certain spots pointed out, the natives being at that time very savage towards whites. Many of the islands in this group of the Pays Plat assume a very exact, rounded shape; others conical, having one, two or three rises. One of them has two of very uniformly swelling size, that is called aptly by the natives & French, the Mamelles or the Woman's Breasts. Encamp about sun set on a little island, near the last traverse to Cape Tonnere. Green stone and red sand stone islands here. During night incessant rains with thunder and lightning. My tent, however, is so perfectly screened by other islands and the trees, that I pass a very comfortable night. The day has been a very dreary one, and my soli- tude once more makes me sigh for things and places & persons left far away. To accommodate my baggage to my canoe load, I have strip' t myself of all books but a text book or two in natural history, and have 1 A mistaken date. The Mitchell Map was 1 755. BOOK ELEVEN 399 had many occasions in my canoe, & when degrade, to promise never to do so again. The absence of imbedded minerals, and uniformity of the rock formation for great extents, prevent a very active employ in geological observations, & had it not been that this was an amusing pursuit to me, I should have been heartily sick of the voyage. For the great anniversary of my countrymen, I hope few of them have so poorly enjoyed it. Saturday, July 5. Rain, high wind and dense fog prevent my de- parture 'til 1 1 o'clock. Then make the traverse of a great bay, called Black Bay, whose depth could not be seen. There are a few islands in its mouth, and one of them had to the eye a most peculiar appearance. Its perpendicular banks were 15 feet high, and excepting a table of two feet on its surface was of a bright red color. The rock was finely stratified, and it was said to be sand stone, the table covering it was, I presume, green stone 2 ft. thick but both were so regular in their horizontal positions that I was anxious to view them more nearly but could not consistently. There were two or three small vertical veins extending a few feet of a yellow color, giving the whole quite a mys- terious aspect. An old voyageur told me the stone was gritty, & could not be used for pipes, so that no doubt it was sand-stone. On my re- turn found it to be sand stone, red and gray on the surface. This traverse of 12 miles bro't me to Gape Tonnere that forms one side of the bay, on the opposite side of which Fort William stands. The cape is a narrow spit of perpendicular greenstone, running N.E. & S.W. into the lake, and about 1400 ft. high. It descends to the lake lengthwise by five very uniformly decreasing tables, giving its profile an unusual and handsome appearance. The sides of its highest table are mural & columnar, & piles of its debris reach more than half way up its summit. It was on both its sides the very counterpart of the Pallisadoes on the Hudson. Its columnar structure, mural faces and debris all correspond, and it is a very similar green stone. Could not land however to obtain specimens, e situ. A fair wind wafted me by & it blew so very strong that we were all glad to make a little island near the cape called Rabbit Island and within to wait. Find here our fellow travellers degrade & altho neither of us could proceed across the bay 12 miles to Fort William three Indian canoes came from thence to the island shortly after. They were light however & glad to stop on the island for the day. Opposite to Point Tonnere is the island called the Pate, a noble pile of columnar greenstone as high as Tonnere Point, similar except that its projecting summits and insular position give it the profile of a great pie (to be described more particularly) . I was anxious to reach the long look'd for Fort William & found my crew afraid to make the traverse. Relying in their experience, I encamped 4 oo THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY for the day. This little island was of green stone at one end where the rock was 6 ft. high, and the end where it was low a fine grained green stone slate appeared. The slate I understand also underlies the great Cape Tonnere. The slate made good hones, & it was amusing to see every squaw & Indian instantly on arranging their canoe after landing, pick up a slatestone & commence sharpening their knives, &c. Whether they knew the spot or the stone by sight, or saw my men so using them, I cannot say. The Indians were from the Lake of the Woods and were better limbed, better fed, better cloth'd, and better looking men than I had been accustomed to see below — The men were to be remarked for their very prominent chests, and the squaws for broader hips & shoulders than the natives below. Their costume however favored such appearance in the women. Instead of the short gown, above the petticoat was a single piece of cloth rising to the top of their bosoms, and secured by small bands passing over their shoulders to a similar piece behind. The bands were much ornamented with beads & the whole was a far more graceful costume than the short gown & would be so with any well-made woman. I am told even in Winter their shoulders are left naked as now. At night one of the men takes a steam vapor bath. A few sticks are bent to form a wigwam, as high as a man sitting. One or more hot stones are placed in the center. He enters and the squaw gradually encloses the wigwam with skins. Water is handed in to make a steam & the whole in this instance was entirely covered with a large buffalo robe. The sweat must have been most powerful. I could not learn the cause of the prescription, nor whether any pre- cautions were taken on leaving the bath, but was told none. From the number of these little wigwams that I noticed about their encamp- ments, the prescription must be very common, and one trader told me, that he believed they resorted to it when over-fatigued. They sometimes make a decoction of herbs and roots to immerse the hot stones in which produces a scented steam of more virtue as a sudorofic according to their notions, but whether of luxury or utility seemed doubtful. Sunday, July 6. Embark from this little island (Rabbit) at 3 o'clock in the morning, hoping to secure the traverse before the wind might rise. Do so, and arrive at Fort William at 6 a.m. The fort is a little dis- tance up a river called the Kamanistiquia. This river is the canoe track of the Hudson's Bay Co. to the interior, called the New Road. The schooner Recovery lies off the mouth. It is the river used in ascending what is called the New Road to the Lake of the Woods and is free for twelve miles, of rapids. Fort William is a very large establishment in decay. It is contained within pickets enclosing acres and at each angle of the square has a block house, and some bastions included for artillery pieces. Two or three small pieces were mounted. The entrance also BOOK ELEVEN 401 had been strengthened since Lord Selkirk's attack upon them, when he made prisoner of the principal agent, forcing the gate with fixed bayonets, before they had time to close it, sending his men down the river in two batteaux covered with oil cloths to conceal them. The gate is now secured by a portcullis & block house. Since the coalition of the Hudson's Bay and North West Companies, this post has become very insignificant & fast going to ruin. Mr. Stewart is the present Agent about to be relieved by a Mr. McKenzie. Both gentlemen meet me at the landing & pay the compliment of hoisting their flag in the fort upon my arrival. Establish my camp (or rather my men do) a little above the fort where is a plain left for such purpose & also one below. The field above was always occupied by the North Men, or people who wintered in the Indian Country, and the plain below by the Pork Eaters, or people who came from Montreal in the Spring to take down packs & returned in the Summer. In former times, Mr. Stewart tells me (in 1 818) he had 800 North Men encamped here, and on such occasions there was always a constant riot in the camps, there being a sort of warfare existing. Breakfast and dine with Mr. Stuart and mess, in their large hall. We were 6 or 8 at table in a hall that was large enough to dine 300, and the whole establishment look'd as if it had been run in correspondence with the hall. There is a handsome square of ground neatly levelled, &c. within the pickets, the hall on one side facing the entrance, and empty ware houses and useless offices on the other three sides. Purchase of the company a North Canoe as called, to enter the interior, my Mackinac canoe being pronounced two heavy, as no two men could carry her, & the portages only admitting of such an arrangement. The men do not like the canoe now purchased but it seems that they can state no objection, except that it had been for five years in the canoe house and no one had chosen it. There were ten or twelve new ones and as many old to choose from, but it is the custom with the Canadians always to be dissatisfied. I have faithfully tried the experi- ment and find that by indulging them, by giving them all things they ask for, that still some imaginary want is contrived to grumble about, and that by a strict regimen in diet and work, they are not only better satisfied, but more civil and obedient. It is rare to find a bad tempered man amongst the voyageurs. They are careless of all things except their money, and in all other respects very like our seamen, with the gay and singing faculties always in use. Have my North Canoe trim'd & the men employ two squaws to stitch the bouts with watap, which they do very neatly. There are always some poor squaws about the fort for such purposes, who are com- pensated by a little provision. Monday, July 7. At Fort William, making arrangements for the 402 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY interior. The men busy preparing the gum for the canoe. It is boiled over a slow fire the better part of a day & then burnt down until it becomes of purple consistency, when it is permitted to cool, & is of a black color and hard enough to crack upon bending the bark. Heavy showers and fogs throughout the day. Am obliged repeatedly to send the canoe under cover &. stop the gumming process, which can only be well done, when the bark is perfectly dry, and by these pre- cautions succeed in the course of the day in making some progress in this affair. The greatest difficulty however is to keep the Canadians at work, who always consider a stop at a fort as a holiday and signal for a frolic. My men however kept perfectly sober. The Compy. have several fields planted & I noticed barley & potatoes. Corn will scarcely ripen to eat green. Peas will sometimes ripen. They have a fine stock of oxen, horses, cows and sheep, the two former now useless for want of employ. Tuesday, July 8th. Very foggy in the morning, and repeated thun- der showers throughout the day, with high winds. By the precaution of sending the canoe under cover in the fort whenever a shower ap- proached, had her well & perfectly gum'd & paddles made, & all things ready in the course of the day for the voyage. Wednesday, July gth. Very foggy and temperate. At day break, Mr. Stewart of the fort comes to my Marquee to take leave, being ready to depart on his voyage to Hudson's Bay. Shortly after a salute is fired on his departure, of three guns. The first gun was the signal for the chaunt of the Canadians, and straining their pipes and their nerves to the utmost he soon passed my camp, ascending the river to take the New Road as called, intending to proceed to Lake Winnipec & thence to Hudson's Bay. Mr. Stewart left with much reluctance. He married a native & has a very large family, mostly girls. His wife being in low health, and it being impossible to take her and the children along, he leaves six children and a wife behind him, most probably never to meet each other again. I heard nothing said of their manner of parting, but from appearances about his quarters, two or three days previous, I can readily imagine that the same feelings were awakened, that (when expressed with the freedom and violence that these half-breeds are apt to shew) it is as cruel to understand as to witness. Two or three of his boys accompanied him. It is the diminished importance of the post that induces the change and he seeks employ of the company at some fort where he can be more useful. Preparatory to my own departure, leave in one of the Company's ware houses my surplus provisions, consisting of 2 kegs of pork, 1 each of flour, 1 keg of whiskey, 1 do. rum, & reduce private baggage of self & men once more, this being the third time. At 8 a.m. take leave of Mr. McKenzie and Mr. McTavish, of the BOOK ELEVEN 403 fort, & depart, ascending the river about a mile when it turns toward the lake by a channel that forms a little flat island, lying of course im- mediately opposite the fort. The river to the lake is about 50 yards wide and has rather more current than the main river that empties into Bay Tonnere. The fog was so dense, that I was obliged to follow close to the lake shore. There are several islands, small, lying along this route toward the Grand Portage, but I was unable to see the greater part of them. Immediately along the shore for some miles it is shallow & there are low meadows, but the highlands I believe are in sight the whole distance. Whenever the fog dispersed for a moment I always had sight of them, within a mile or so. A very heavy sea, without wind, came rolling in from the lake. It was what is called a dead sea, one having no breakers. My new North Canoe rode it very well, and proved nearly as safe a sea boat as the Mackinac canoe, the advantage of the paddles over the oars however in a sea more than equalled the difference between the two canoes, the Mackinac canoe with more paddles in- stead of oars being the most advisable for the lake. At 2 p.m. having run half the distance to the Grand Portage, a heavy storm of wind and rain suddenly arises and drives me to the shore. Am obliged to make the first landing possible, which is in a little bay, that shews no en- camping ground or canoe bed, but penetrating the bushes, we find shelter and pass the night in comfort: that is, in a comparative degree of comfort, to what the prospects before me offered. A little distance behind the camp is a high bluff (mural) of columnar greenstone. Much rain throughout the afternoon and night. Thursday, July 10. Rain ceases, but very foggy, Atmos: Temp. Embark at 6 a.m. and advancing three miles in the dark, the guide is doubtful as to the course & the fog obliges me to land. Wait two hours without any diminution of fog & the lake being smooth de- termine to proceed alongshore. Come to color'd water that satisfied me I had reached Long Lake, or the outlet of Pigeon River. Refer to Mr. Ferguson's maps, and am puzzled on account of islands that I could not identify. My guide gets glimpse of an island & we make a traverse to it by the compass, hap hazard. Fortunately we reach it. We are now entirely in the dark, and this island having precipitous sides & no possible place to land upon, we feel a little awkward. Am certain however that this island must be in the middle of Long Lake, and taking my bearing from the map, assuming the fact of its being Long Lake, make another traverse and reach a long neck of land pro- jecting into the lake. Land & explore, cross the neck & find a deserted Indian lodge, and upon the beach an Indian letter, fixed upon a pole, inclining toward the Grand Portage, that convinced me this was the route & upon reference to the map I could not mistake Pt. aux Toutres. 1 1 Pigeon Point. 4 o 4 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Ordered the canoe to proceed around the point & meet me at the lodge. The Indian letter consisted of a canoe & three persons & some animal traced upon birch bark with a burnt coal, meaning, no doubt, that three Indians in a canoe had gone from that lodge toward the Grand Portage and the animal designated the persons or family, according to Indian heraldry. Point aux Toutres is composed of that peculiar kind of granite con- sisting of red feldspar & small translucent spots of quartz. The quartz & feldspar occasionally both in distinct crystals and very like foreign specimens that I have from a lake in Italy. Whilst making a traverse in Long Lake in the fog I neglected the compass for a minute & found that my steersman had nearly turned the canoe to the point from which we came. When I ordered them to take the course again they were astonished and frightened, supposing that they were going into the lake & when they came to land ask'd if they were not going back to Fort William! It is the fear of the Canadian voyageur, that in time of peril makes him the worst canoe-man possible. If overpowered by winds or waves, he instantly abandons his paddle or his oar & is worse than useless. Their hard working faculties, however, far surpass their failings. Make a traverse to Pt. aux Chapeaux thro' the fog by the compass and Mr Ferguson's map and against a strong wind that soon disperses the fog, so that when we turn the point & the little Isle aux Mutton appears, which they knew to be opposite the Grand Portage they are delighted, with the identity of the place. My old guide says he has been in the dark (meaning the fog) ever since he left Fort William. Pt. aux Chapeau is a high bluff of green stone. A compact green stone slate underlies much of the green stone formation on this route. The granite appears less seldom, & hornblende altogether rules in this region. Arrive at the Grand Portage at 7 p.m. Evening clear & pleasant. A day of fatigue, laboring and confused in fogs & uncertainties has made all glad to arrive & anxious to encamp, which we soon do on the old company's ground, burning & pulling down Indian wigwams to boil our pots. Friday, July II. At sunrise the men have carried most of the bag- gage one post and I have notice that the Marquee & its furniture will be wanted for the next load. Taking an early breakfast whilst the men are eating theirs, I set off with the last load, carrying my own travelling bag, and stone hammer. The whole is carried two posts, when the rain obliges me to encamp. The corn and bread had already been consider- ably exposed by carrying it that far thro' the wet bushes. These two first posts are very bad. There is a considerable ascent, and where it is not rock, it is mud; and the old road is so closed with a young growth BOOK ELEVEN 405 of trees and bushes, that it is difficult to carry anything the size of a canoe piece without injury, if there has been a dew or rain, and to carry the canoe is still more difficult. My establishment requires three trips for baggage and one for the canoe. The mode of carrying is by a portage collar, so called, which is a long leather strap with a broad band in the center to place on the forehead. The load is tied by the ends of it, the band placed on the forehead, & by stooping the man throws the one piece tied into the hollow of his back, his hands then being at liberty, he throws another piece on top of it which fills up the load to the back of his head, bend- ing forward, he takes it over his post on a slow trot, a very fast walk with bended knees. The two pieces are carried with more ease than one, on account of the direction of the weight upon the body, and two sacks of corn (which is three bushels), or a keg of pork (96 lbs.) & a sack or two kegs, is the common load. A man will, when he pleases however, carry three pieces, but it is not required of them. The Canadians sur- pass all others upon the portage. My American of the party was very awkward at first, but soon carried light loads with ease, and it soon proved that in no other manner, so great a weight could be carried on the portage as by the collar. Saturday, July 12. Clear and warm. Continue to labor on the Grand Portage; the road very bad, from the rain of yesterday. Keep most of the time by the men. At night arrive with all the luggage at the second river that crosses the road & encamp, the canoe being advanced several posts beyond. At this place is a little clearing now covered with high grass. It has every appearance of having been the common stopping place of the traders who formerly used the route. An Indian tracks us from the end of the portage. He stated that he was passing from the Fond du Lac to Fort William, and perceiving that a canoe was going over, he came to see who we were. Gave him some corn and tobacco and sent him back. The men had taken the precau- tion to send back to the canoe for their hats &c. left there, fearing that the Indian would steal them on his return, and it proved that their apprehensions were well founded, as the canoe awl, the only article left, was taken away by him. Consider the distance come this day to be about one third of the portage. Temperature of atmosphere at 6 p.m. 6o°; of the little river 56 . Sunday, July 13. Spend the day in hard work crossing the portage. I advance before the men to the third river & encourage them to get that far with the baggage; but they stop for the night at a little mud hole called a spring, that filled our kettles once only & was only suffi- cient for the night. The canoe is sent to the river. The road from 406 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY river to river has proved very much better than the first part. It is level & without rocks. The evening has every appearance of being most de- lightful out of the woods: but, hem'd in by bushes & trees and annoyed by musquitoes, there is no enjoyment of it here. Temp, of the spring 58 , of atmos. at sunset 6o°. The Boundary Line to follow the direct water communication, ac- cording to the accounts of all persons acquainted with this country, will deviate from the Old Road, as called, before the Pigeon River reaches the West end of the Grand Portage. Following the Pigeon River to Lac des Outard & so on to Lac de la Montagne the communi- cation is here broken & does not connect by the Wattap Portage. The Arrow River it is known empties into the Pigeon River below the West end of the portage and Arrow River comes from Arrow Lake and Arrow Lake from Lake Ka-ba-gouish-ke-wa-ga, or Muddy Lake, which is near the Height of Land and on the Old Road. So that the Line will leave Lac d'Outard 1 & la Montagne on the South. The waters of the Pigeon River could not be traced farther than Lac la Montagne in direct continuation. Wednesday, July 14. Encamp at the Pigeon River in the afternoon & the men have all things up by four o'clock, thus having passed the Grand Portage in three full days' work, and one broken day, it being rainy. In the afternoon, heavy showers. Pigeon River is at this point a pretty stream, about 30 yards wide, and just below the portage tumbles over rapids of considerable height but not having seen them all, cannot speak of the descent. The falls of Pigeon River near the lake are said to be no feet high. At this end of the Grand Portage, as at the other, there is scarcely a trace remaining of its former condition except the cleared ground. A few stumps of burnt pickets assist in tracing the extent of the former enclosures, and that is all. It is a pretty place & a profusion of wild roses & the sweet pea and high growth of grass, in the absense of all other considerations, afforded a momentary reconciliation to the spot. Fir trees and white birch are the trees of the adjacent country. The landing place or dock of the old North West Co. is still entire and affords some accommodation. At night heavy rain. Temp, at sun set 6o°; of Pigeon River 2 ft. from surface, 69 . Tuesday, July 15. Rain and cloudy morning prevents the gumming of the canoe, until 10 a.m., when I embark, ascending Pigeon River. It continues of uniform width nearly 'til we reach the Partridge Falls, where is a portage to be made of one post. This is a very pretty fall and rapid. It is broken into several falls; the greatest shoot about 40 ft. & the descent of the whole about 60 ft. 1 South Fowl Lake. BOOK ELEVEN 407 Six miles from the Partridge Falls come to the Cariboo Rapids, which I ascend with two half loads, not making a portage as is usual at one of the rapids. The men were frequently obliged to wade by the side of the canoe to raise and force her by the rapids. Ascending the second time, they injured the canoe by bruising a small piece of the bark in the middle of her bottom. My foreman, however, repairs it, putting in a new piece in about 30 minutes. The accident occurred at the Gross Roche Rapid, as called, where I encamp for the night, it being near sun set when the canoe is repaired. Wednesday, July 16. Embark at sun rise. Pass the Cariboo (Rein- deer) Portage of one post, the canoe and lightest luggage ascending the rapid. From Cariboo, pass to Portage d'Outard, where we make three posts. At the entrance of Lake d'Outard is a very high mural piece of green stone, the hornblende prevailing largely. It is, perhaps, 350 ft. high. Where its perpendicular height connects with its debris, I ob- served a horizontal stratum of fine grained green stone slate, like that of Partridge Falls. Supposed it to be at the same level. Could neither ascertain its thickness or direction on account of the debris of the green stone mountain. At the summit of the green stone cliff noticed a vertical vein of calc spar (satin spar), associated with crystallized quartz. They were the only imbedded substances seen. Lake d'Outard is a beautiful little lake. Its course E. & W. about 4 miles long and narrow; water clear & deep, but warm. It is surrounded by highlands, that sink every mile or so into vallies. Their direction does not appear uniform, but are most commonly N.E. & S.W. Observed the muskalonge or large pike in this lake, and some very large black leeches; when extended, six inches long. Pass thro' a little stream with a gentle current & filled on its sides with rushes, into another lake but is called by the same name as the last (d'Outard). It is also a beautiful sheet of water much like the last, surrounded by similar highlands. The passage thro' these Lakes d'Outard was a delightful change from the past. A gentle breeze with mild temperature added much to the pleasure of the afternoon. We leave Lake d'Outard by a very narrow and circuitous stream filled with rushes & land at the Moose Portage. Encamp at the West end of Moose Portage for the night. Temp, of lake in shallow water at portage 72 ; of atmosphere, 6o°. Thursday, July 17. Rain in the early part of the morning delays embarcation 'til 7 o'clock, when I pass the Moose Lake about four miles to Cherry Portage. Moose Lake is another very pretty little narrow lake, its shores bounded by highlands. Course E. & W. The highlands are of more gentle inclination than those past, still covered with birch and fir trees of small growth. Sounded in eight fathoms without bottom. Temperature of lake in the middle and two feet from surface 7 2°. Saw large yellow leeches with dark spots, very numerous in this lake. 4 o8 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY The Cherry Portage from Moose Lake is one long or two short posts. From Moose Lake there is a portage to Arrow Lake, which lake we consider to be the Boundary Line. It is a portage of two miles, or there- abouts. Mr. Ferguson passed that way. It leads to a dirty, shallow little pond filled with yellow water lily and bull frogs, about ioo yards long, thence to a narrow creek, that leads to a dirty little portage, that leads to another dirty little pond, 1 much like the last. They are both ap- propriately called Muddy Lake. They have scarcely water enough to float a laden canoe; are of rock bottom, but the pan of rock is covered with 3 and four feet of soft mud. At the W. end of this portage a very heavy shower falls and obliges me to secure the baggage and halt. The hills by the side of the portage valley are sienite, and about ioo ft. high. At 4 p.m. the rain ceases, and I embark with a bright sun on Keesh- ku-te-na Lagayan, which means Lake of the Hills, and by the Ca- nadians Lac a la Montagne. This is a beautiful sheet of water. It is long and narrow. Its mountain sides incline to the water's edge, covered with the varied growth of small trees peculiar to the region, such as birch, poplar, willow and fir trees. The mountains are in chains, breaking into vallies every mile or two, and almost every valley is a lake, as may be seen by ascending any of the heights. They are of the hornblende rock, like to the Cherry Portage rock, and may be called sienite. The Lac de la Montagne and the Arrow Lake, which lies North of it and near are considered the two deepest lakes in the inte- rior. The canoe lines and others of greater length, I am told, have not found the bottom. Encamp at the end of Lac la Montagne on the Wattap Portage. At the Wattap Portage we leave the line of water communication. There is no water passage to the strait we next arrive at. Friday, July 18. My men are very early at work on the Wattap Portage, which is rendered bad by logs and stones; and the portage is pass'd, canoe loaded, &c. and I embark, the sun half an hour high. Passing a narrow, winding strait, having low lands on either side for about two miles, there commences on the South side a chain of many short mountains, all presenting perpendicular sides or ends on the N.W. They are of the usual hornblend rock. The highest may be 350 feet. This passage thro highlands leads to a little creek only large enough for the canoe. It again widens, and this communication con- tinues to widen & contract always having on the South the ridges of columnar green stone, until we arrive at the new Grand Portage. On the N. side of this passage the land is low and level, as far as could be seen from the canoe. The new Long or Grand Portage is of five posts, and has hills, rocks, fallen trees and mud in the road. Pass it, however, by 3 p.m. At the W. end of this portage, it is usual to prepare the canoe 1 Lily Lakes. BOOK ELEVEN 409 for the descent of rapids, the other side of Height of Land. This re- fitting consists in driving the boards or ribs of the canoe, called by the Canadians verons, tight, so that they have a uniform and close bearing upon the bottom or bark. The operation takes two or three hours. The improvement of the canoe is manifest both in firmness and form. The afternoon is most favorable for the voyage and this delay, created as it seem'd, by the Frenchmen, annoyed me very much. Satisfied however that they were exercising their best judgment, and well know- ing that everything goes wrong when they are not permitted to be lords of the canoe & the portages, I did not interfere. It would have been fatal to all peace or comfort for a few days at least to have counter- acted their plans for their darling canoe. Pride, self-will and obstinacy are virtues with the Canadian in many matters. As an instance, they had alarmed me on account of provisions. Fearing from their gluttony I should fall short, I put them upon rations & constant grumbling & discontent was the consequence. When secure of a supply I allowed them to help themselves, and they actually ate less, travelled farther, and were better-tempered animals for the change. At the W. end of the new Grand Portage is a lake called by the savages "Ka-ba-gouish ke-wa-ga Sagayan", which means Muddy Lake. The Canadians call it Small Fish Lake, 1 which name I have adopted. Temp, of atmos. at sunset 55 . Temp, of Small Fish Lake at portage and 6 inches from surface, 70 . Saturday, July 19. Embark on the Small Fish Lake at sun-rise. It is about 3 miles long, and takes its name from the quantity of suckers that are caught here. The white fish is rarely taken in this lake, or the pike. This lake is encircled by high lands particularly on the South. They are broken ridges, or a chain of many little mountains, having a general direction of N.W. and S.E. The N.N.W. sides are in this place perpendicular and of the other faces I cannot speak, but the S.E. ends seem to slope to a point. From Small Fish Lake pass thro' a winding strait that swells & contracts, a distance of about 3 miles to Otter Portage. This is a short portage about twice the length of the canoe. The rapid of the connecting river is in sight and about (10) feet fall. Cross a very little lake to PPerche or Pole Portage. Whilst the crew are passing the portage of one post, I take a comfortable breakfast & the men having done the same embark on Lake A-ja-wa-wa Satagan, 2 which means Lake of the Height of Land or carrying place. This lake is about 5 m. long & 1 wide. The water is clear and seems deep. Temp, as before. It is also surrounded by high lands that range E. & W. They were not accessible, but no doubt are the green stone formations. 1 Rose Lake. 2 South Lake. 4 io THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY An inlet in the N.W. point of the lake, and not its extremity leads to the Height of Land Portage. The Height ranges N.E. & S.W. and at the N.E. end of the ridge which is in sight, where it sinks into low land, the waters of the two lakes very nearly approximate & in the Spring it is said actually to flow together. It is now a marsh between them for a short distance only. The highest part of this ridge is a considerable elevation. The portage road is thro' a valley, and does not rise more than twenty feet above the water level. It is of one post and a good road. The lake on the W. side of the Height of Land also called A-ja-wa-wa Sagagan, 1 or Height of Land Lake, is a pretty little lake, from which we pass by a narrow strait to Pin Portage. This is a short rapid about the length of the canoe and descent about three feet. We are neverthe- less induced to carry the heavy baggage, and the canoe with a few light things saults the rapid, as is the phrase of the country. It is a narrow pass thro' angular green stone rocks thrown there by the force of cur- rents and drawing to a point: the rapid takes a similar form, from which circumstance I presume the name. Chert or flinty substances associate with the green stone at Pin Portage, and blue calcedony in consider- able quantities but not very fine. Temp, of water at this portage 73 one foot from surface. In the N.E. are to be seen some high bluffs or moun- tain ranges, but there is a change from the country the other side of the Height. After passing a narrow strait, with low flats on each side, that contracts to a pass filled with rushes, the Flint Lake, 2 or Pierre au Feu Lac of the Canadians, suddenly displays a handsome shoot, or rather strait. It is 9 miles long and less than a mile wide. On the right of the entrance to the lake is a short and clean sand beach, a sight so novel was quite welcome after roving so many days on rocky shores that scarcely allowed a foot hold, or even approach. The Indian name of Flint Lake is Kam-squat-se-ka. It is surrounded by the green stone formation passing into slate, which is sometimes ferruginous, and con- tains flint, black and blue calcedony. Small fragments abound on the shores. Course of Flint Lake S.W. The ragged Highlands with per- pendicular faces have disappeared, and ranges of hills with moderate inclinations supply their places. I know of no better mode of describing the direction of the Highlands in these regions, than to say that the water courses and lakes conform to them and are generally E. & W., but vary even to N. & S. If any general remarks can be made of the country thus far it is that N.E. and S.W. are the prevailing courses of the Highlands. We took a turtle of 6 or 7 lbs. weight in Flint Lake which was like the common fresh water turtle. Neither my inquiries or observation have led to the discovery that the web-footed turtle exists 1 North Lake. 2 Little Gun Flint Lake. BOOK ELEVEN 411 in these waters including the Great Lakes, some traveller to the con- trary notwithstanding. A narrow strait carries us from Flint Lake, again swelling into a little lake one mile, to a short rapid of two feet fall which we descend with the aid of the canoe line. Close to this rapid is the PEscalier Falls Portage. The PEscalier Falls as the name indi- cates, is in steps, and the descent may be, together with the rapid, just above 18 feet. A reddish granite with green feldspar is the rock forma- tion of this neighborhood. Temp, of water 2 feet from surface below the falls was 72 . A portage of course is made here, and again embarking we shortly arrive at the Wooden Horse Rapid and Fall. 1 The rapid we shoot with loaded canoe and, it being about sun set, encamp on the portage of the Wooden Horse Falls. This portage is over rocks, about one hundred yards in length. The falls are broken, or in several steps, and including the rapids above are about thirty feet fall. Temp, at sun set 68°. Have remarked since leaving the Height of Land the old water level to be seen on the rocks, indicating that in former time it was much higher than at present. In some of the lakes it has been four feet above the present level, and from four feet it varies to one in different lakes, according to the outlet produced by the cause that effected the change. The waters at this time, are higher than they usually are. The change, however, is very sudden in the interior, depending upon the quantity of rain, and the same season shews both higher and lower waters than the voyageurs are accustomed to. As regards the ancient water levels, I have remarked them from the St. Lawrence River to this place, and can only say that I consider the decrease to be regular by the wearing away of the barriers; and the irregularity of the diminutions in differ- ent lakes may depend upon the rock formation of its outlet, it being evident that the lime stone, the slate and the granite would yield at different degrees of pressure. Sunday, July 20. The portage of the Wooden Horse Falls where I encamped last night is a rude and romantic spot. Pitched my Marquee on the only flat rock there was of sufficient size for it, in the middle of the portage by the side of the falls. The cascades are tumbling thro chasms of granite, and being in several shoots, in all 30 feet, the noise is very great. But these sounds are so familiar that I lose no rest & em- bark soon after sun-rise. Pass thro' a strait that leads to a portage of one post, called the Great Pine Portage, having breakfasted whilst the men were carrying on the portage and, the usual ceremony of gumming the canoe being performed, embark on the strait from Great Pine Portage and shortly arrive at Siskile Rapid. Sault this rapid which is thro walls of granite quite regularly shaped. 1 Little Rock Falls. 4 i2 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Temp, of water below Siskile Rapid 72 . Shortly after avoid another bad rapid by carrying heavy luggage over a portage and sault the canoe. Descent 6 feet. Soon descend another difficult rapid, and very soon after arrive at another, where we are again obliged to unload, and carry the heavy articles over a very bad portage, and sault the canoe. My guide calls it the Mariboo 1 Rapid. Temp, of atmos. at 4 p.m. 8o°; of water 2 feet from surface, 75 . Thence pass into Lake Saganaga which means Lake of Bays. This is a large lake, and contains, by Mr. Ferguson's surveys, two hundred and eighty-nine islands. In my passage thro' it I could form no idea of the size or direction of the lake, it was so glutted with islands, both large and small. The maps sent me by Mr. Ferguson of his last year's work terminate here, and after advancing about 2 hours in groups of islands, my old guide acknowledges that he is lost, and we know not which way to proceed. A setting sun adds to the difficulty, but roving about the guide recognizes the track & we soon find an encamping ground that had apparently been the frequent resort of times past, and proved a comfortable lodgment. The rock formations have been gran- ite with hornblende throughout the day's travelling. Temp, of atmos. sun set 70 . Of water of Lake Saganaga, 72 . Monday, July 2 1 . Embark at sun rise. Temp. 63 . Clear. Leave Lake Saganaga over a short portage called the Little Rock Portage of Lake Saganaga. It is the length of the canoe only. There is here a little brook rippling over cobble-stones about a yard wide and three or four inches deep, thro' which the water runs into Lake Saga- naga. It is covered with bushes, and without some examination would not be noticed. The Line of course will deviate once more from the old canoe route at this lake, and instead of pursuing it will follow the water communication which is by the River Saganaga as the Indians call it. This river is some distance N. of this little portage. Is said to be a large river with many bad rapids, and to connect by small lakes, with the Sturgeon Lake on the New Road; and thence by the River Malin with Lake St. Croix & thence onward by the Old Road. This deviation leaves on the S. of the Line & within the U.S. Knife Stone Lake, Bois Blanc Lake, 2 & Crooked Lake with the connecting waters. In the Bois Blanc Lac is a British trading post (wintering house from fort at l'Pluie). Having no knowledge at this time of the above deviation but from account obtained thro' Mr. Ferguson, & my guide being altogether ignorant of it, I continue by the Old Road of the traders. Passing from Lake Saganaga, proceed over a small lake, called Lake 1' Prairie 3 to 1 Maraboeuf Falls. 2 Basswood Lake. 3 Swamp Lake. BOOK ELEVEN 4i3 Portage 1' Prairie which take their name from a little marsh at the E. end of the portage. The portage itself is rocky, and the compact green stone again occurs rising about 20 ft. on the portage track. The rock of the little portage from Lac Saganaga is granite. From Portage 1' Prairie pass thro a long, narrow and circuitous strait, having on either side high cliffs of columnar green stone. Its waters are deep. Their Temp. 2 ft. from surface 73 . It leads to the Knife Stone Lake Portage, so called because of the angular fragments of green stone slate containing flint, that abound here. It is a portage of about 150 feet, and the water communicates over a fall of about 6 feet, running W. again. Knife Stone Lake (or rather lakes because there are two, in fact, connected by a very narrow pass obstructed with rocks thro which is a current), have high cliffs on their sides (no doubt green stone) ; are long, narrow and winding, having a general course W.S.W. The rock at the portage is a very compact green stone, containing some iron and considerable white quartz. Knife Stone Lake leads to the Cedar Rapids which are six in num- ber, and we found them very bad and difficult to pass. Obstructed by fallen trees that formed bridges over the passes, with a heavy growth of cedars on the banks that gave a dismal darkness to them, together with roar of rapids and the presence of rocks over which they dash'd, it was sufficiently rude, without the fatigues that follow' d in descending them, to make the scene sufficiently novel. The canoe was taken down with the load, the men wading by its side to guide her safely by the rocks whilst I for part of the distance scrambled thro the woods. When the water is higher, the descent is said to be easy. When it is lower I am sure it must be difficult. Indeed, a portage track in the woods was proof of this fact. Found some shells in these rapids, and took specimens of the rock formation, which is a green stone passing into slate. Pass the rapids and arrive at a fall, also known as the Cedar Fall 1 & Portage and it being sun set, encamp. Night very warm, so much so that the blanket might for a time have been dispensed with, were it not for that most troublesome and most constant compagnon du voyage, the musquitoe. Temp, of water below Cedar Falls, 74° (2 feet deep). Tuesday, July 22. Embark at sun rise from the first Cedar Portage and in ten minutes debark at the second. Temperature at 6 a.m., 69 . The second Cedar Portage is also a short one. There are six rapids, and two portages, called the Cedar Rapids and Portages. The descent of the whole is about 40 feet. The next portage called by my guide the Sucker Portage, leads to a small lake of same name, and thence to Great Bois Blanc Portage. The Cedar Rapids and Portage to this place * Seed Fall. 414 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY are all of green stone, running into slate. At the Bois Blanc Portage the green stone occurs in junction with granite. Descent of the falls at Bois Blanc Portage is about 1 5 feet. At this portage a small band of Indians and squaws perceiving us from their neighboring lodge come to us. Embark as soon as possible, to avoid both their thieving and begging. Give them some tobacco and leave them. When off they hailed to know if I would trade rum for skins & seemed surprised when told I had nothing to do with skins. When a mile from the portage, discovered that I had left my thermometer behind me & had little hope of recovering it, supposing the Indians had found it suspended in the bush. Returned and to my astonishment they had not perceived it. There is a wintering post for a trader of the Hudson's Bay Co. near the portage on the N. shore of this lake, that seems as if lately created. Mr. McGillivray from the Fort on River lTluie wintered here last year. It was deserted, but the wood pile indicated a return in the Winter. Lac Bois Blanc is called 18 m. long. It is filled with islands, and when in the middle of it my guide discovers that he is off the road, as the language of the country is, and we row about til near sun set from island to island before he is set right. Encountered several showers in the course of the afternoon & encamp on a sand beach skirted by the woods, from necessity. Night, wind, & rain combining to terminate my voyage for the day. In the skirt of the woods fortunately discover the wreck of an Indian wigwam (the sure indication of good quarters). The baggage with much care is landed without damage thro' the tor- rent of rain, but I am well drenched before the Marquee is pitched by the clumsy Canadians, clumsy in everything but what appertains to the canoe or their pipes! Course thro' the Lake Bois Blanc generally S.W. Temp, of lake 74 , 2 feet from surface. Wednesday, July 23. Clear and pleasant. Breakfast before embark- ing in order to allow the tents &c. to dry, as well as the portage from Lac Bois Blanc, the baggage always receiving some injury passing a wet portage, from the bushes. This lake discharges itself into the next by two rivers; one about a mile N.E. from the portage, the other at the portage. The fall at the portage is the handsomest I have seen this side of the Height of Land. It is about a hundred yards wide, emptying a great body of water over a fall of about 1 5 feet, and then a rapid some feet more. This is called the Petit Bois Blanc Portage & Rapid. In a few ensuing miles am obliged to make three more portages, to avoid the rapids of this furious stream, which is increased by the junction of the other river or outlet from Lac Bois Blanc. The first is called the Great Tree Portage, and is a granite rock formation. From this run two rapids of about seven feet descent to the Point of Woods Portage, distant three miles from the last. Descent about 8 feet. This river of communication BOOK ELEVEN 415 has divided into three, since I left Bois Blanc Portage. Two of them unite before passing the Point of Woods Portage. The third is called the Rock Portage of Crooked Lake, and is about 200 feet long over a granite ridge. The descent about twenty feet. A stream is tumbling in from the S. just below these falls which I have no doubt is the junction of the third branch before noticed. Thus in the course of 6 or 7 miles I have passed four portages and descended between 60 & 70 feet, loading & reloading the canoe and carrying the luggage as many times on the men's backs. A narrow strait with high granitic ridges on the sides and of deep water leads us to the Crooked Lake. In this strait, and on the left side just before emerging into the lake is a high perpendicular granite cliff rendered famous by the circumstance of its having in a fissure of the rock between 20 & 30 feet from the water a number of arrows, said to have been shot there by a war party of the Sioux when on an excursion against the Sauters or Chippewas. The party had ad- vanced thus far and, not finding an enemy, shot their arrows in the fissure as well to shew that they had been there, as to convince them of their deadly aim. The fissure presents an opening of two inches, and there may be seen still the feather ends of about twenty arrows driven nearly to the end. The cliff is about 100 feet high and of red granite containing masses of green stone, singularly distributed in distinct patches, giving the whole a compound character, but not sufficiently so to call it otherwise than granite. Took a fragment of the rock, as somebody, I noticed, had done before me. The traveller has left his mark on this rock in various ways; some by name & some by date & some by strange device. Pass into the Crooked Lake. Observe a smoke on an island as we enter. The crew commence their chant & it draws out a band of Indians, boys and girls, in all 20. In the group we dis- cover a red cap of the voyageur & approach at his hail. He proves to be one of Mr. Thompson's men. He had been taken sick on the Grand Portage & was left behind. I give him a passage &c, buying a paddle for him of the Indians at the expense of a plug of tobacco. Crooked Lake is entirely filled with islands. We are once more lost. The afternoon very temperate and calm but my guide not knowing where he is, I make an early encampment. The old water levels are distinctly marked on the rocky islands of this lake. At some time the lake level appears to have been 31^ feet higher than at present. There are several intermediate lines, denoting other levels at other times. Throughout this day's journey the granitic formations have prevailed. At the Bois Blanc Portage the granite and green stone were in junction. Some of the intermediate portages were of granite. The islands in Crooked Lake are principally of granite and slope into the lake. Green stone occurs rather in masses than in veins, in this neighborhood, as- sociating rather than alternating with the granite. The cliff where the 416 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY arrows are is a fine example of it. Tempe. at 12 a.m. 8o° At sun set 72 Of Lac Bois Blanc 74 Of Crooked Lake 74° Thursday, July 24. Embark again on Crooked Lake shortly after sun rise. Conclude to return to the Indians for a guide over this lake, and when on the way meet with a hunting party and take one of them along as guide. He, together with a boy 10 or 11 years old, accompanies us in their little canoe of about 1 o feet, and are able to keep ahead of my canoe with its seven paddles. The Indians use very wide blade paddles, and the North canoemen very small ones. The Indian paddles slowly & the Canadian quickly. My old guide is much mortified that another should be employed, but it would have been very strange had he known the track thro' this well-named lake, not having been here for twenty years. The islands of Crooked Lake that I saw were all granite. They were sloping into the lake and none of them high. The diminution of the rock formations seems to be gradual from the Height of Land, Westward. In some of the granite rocks observed masses of green stone imbedded, some round, others angular, forming a sort of breccia; but they were not numerous enough to give this name to the formation. They were, of course, contemporaneous with the granite. The portage from Crooked Lake is one post over a granite ridge. The fall is called by the Frenchmen the Window Curtain Fall. It is a handsome shoot, 35 feet descent. Immediately after making this portage, run three rapids, descent about 5 feet. The course thro' the strait connect- ing Crooked Lake with Lac 1' Croix is very circuitous, and after follow- ing it 7 or 8 miles come to the Bottle Portage. It is of one full post and leads to Lac l'Croix. Keep the Indian guide 'til we arrive at that part of Lac l'Croix where the New Road joins the Old, when my guide dis- charges his debt by giving the Indian a blanket in addition to the pay in provisions which I had given him, to his great satisfaction, for the job. My crew were all rejoiced to be upon the New Road & from the com- plaints I had heard of the old, and pains and labors witnessed, I confess I felt the elation also, as if some change for the better was at hand; but it all proved the character of the Canadian. The change was no other ways in our favor than that we were advanced upon the journey and near to larger lakes. To complain of the present and sigh for the past and the future, is the common custom of this weather beaten clan. Encamp at sun set on the beach of an island affording a sufficient level for my tent, a luxury that I had not enjoyed for three nights, my en- campment having been on sloping or curved rocks that did not allow a bed at full length. The comfort of a good night's rest, with limbs at full length without molestation, I can ascribe to the benefits of the New Road. Feeling the want of a change of diet I have some rice boiled, which with a pair of ducks that my Indian guide shot, makes an ex- cellent supper. The ducks are roasted voyageur fashion by splitting BOOK ELEVEN 417 them, and extending the parts on a forked stick which is stuck in the dirt by the fire! They roast quickly and well in this way. Fresh fish cooked in the same way is very good. The Frenchmen roast and eat the entrails &c. of the ducks as a great relish. In the evening, showers. Temp, at 6 a.m 67 , wind S.W. " 12 n 75 " sunset 71 of water of Crooked Lake 2 ft. from surface, 73 . The granite of this neighborhood is without mica as usual, altho it occurs as if accidentally in a few instances. A rock approaching coarse mica slate or a micaceous schist begins to appear here associated with granite. The junction of the New and the Old Road in this lake is also of in- terest because we again strike the Boundary Line, or direct communica- tion, as supposed. Leaving the Old Road in Lake Saganaga by the River Saganaga the Line joins the New Road in Sturgeon Lake, and thence by the River Malin to Lac 1' Croix where the two routes meet. Knife Lake, Bois Blanc Lake and Crooked Lake are therefore within the jurisdic- tion of the U. S. 1 Friday, July 25. The apparent approach of a storm delays embarka- tion til 7 a.m. when I start in the hope of arriving at the portage from Lac l'Croix before the rain commences. Four Indian canoes pass me whilst embarking, the two hinder ones only discover me. They ap- proach, but I leave them without much parley. This is the third band of Indians that I have met since I left Lake Superior. Another Indian & his squaw soon after overtake me to trade & are disappointed. They were civil & well disposed. Had a pack in their canoe. A canoe from the North soon after passes, on its way to Fort William. Mr. Nelson, an Hudson's Bay Compy. clerk from his post near the Winnepec (I think), was the Bourgeois. He gave me an account of a melancholy accident that had befallen an American hunter (now in the Fort at River PPluie under the care of Mr Gillivray). The man, whose name is Tanner 2 was leaving the country with some of his children, not to return. His squaw wife was in company travelling in their own canoe, and an Indian in his canoe accompanied them. When ascending a rapid, somewhat about the River Malin, the Indian shot the American, wounding him badly, the ball passing thro' & breaking the arm above the elbow, and thence thro' his breast. He was left as dead by the Indian & his squaw returned to Fort l'Pluie with the children. The 1 This point became a matter of dispute with the British and helped to delay the settlement under Art. VI. 1 Tanner, see note on page 423. 418 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Indian has not since been heard of. The conjecture was that the Indian was instigated by the squaw, & the probability is, that the in- tended separation of herself & children was the cause. The wounded man was found by Mr. Stewart (who left Fort William the same day that I did), nearly perished with loss of blood and starvation, three days after the occurrence. He was naked & had concealed himself in the bushes, where his tortures from musquitoes, biting the wound, must have been excruciating. Unable to exist there, he concluded he would crawl to the rocks on the river, and put himself in the way of travellers, or end a miserable fate by rolling over the rapids. The coming of Mr. Stewart saved the man. He took him to Fort l'Pluie. Mr. Nelson told me that he had met Mr. Ferguson on the River l'Pluie, going to the Lake of the Woods. He kindly waits whilst I write a letter in my canoe for home. 1 The rock formations undergo a change in Lac l'Croix. The granite alternates with a micaceous slaty rock that is the mica schist of some. It is stratified and lies with a dip to the N. of various degrees & some- times as much as 45 . It is in ranges that run near E. & W. Arrive at the Lac l'Croix Portage about 10 a.m. It is a short post, and leads to a small lake, of 6 miles length, that my guide says is called Un-de-go-sa, or Man-eaters Lake; 1 but it is more properly perhaps the l'Croix River. It leads to another portage, called the Second l'Croix Portage. It con- tains several little rocky islands & there is not much, if any current. A crooked creek connects the Second with the Third l'Croix Portage, a very short and easy post, from whence we follow the l'Croix River 5 or 6 miles into Vermillion Lake. It is a narrow, winding stream of gentle current, with low and marshy shores, about 50 feet wide. When passing the several l'Croix Portages, met ten canoes, laden with packs from the interior for Fort William. It was a wholesome lesson for my men to witness the industry, activity, & labor of these crews on the portages. It was the best conducted strife (for it was a race) that under the circumstances I can imagine. Several arriving at the same moment at a landing only large enough to admit them by studied contrivances, all unlade, carry their packs, their canoes, load again and are off, without a word being exchanged. The portage was made upon the trot in every instance. Of three canoes that went thro' these routines whilst I was present, I did not hear a word spoken. Before I had made the portage another brigade came up, who were nearly as intent as the first. Soon after I passed the third detachment, and as they had no hope of regaining their lost ground, they travelled with less speed. This 1 No letter of this date appears in Joseph Delafield's papers in the National Archives. * Loon Lake BOOK ELEVEN 419 brigade was following the trader, Mr. Nelson, whom I pass'd on Lac l'Croix. Leaving the 1' Croix River enter upon Vermillion Lake. It is a small lake of 7 or 8 miles length with several islands. They are of granite, having gentle inclinations to the lake. No highlands in sight. From Ver- million Lake pass thro' a narrows formed of granite rocks into Lake Nemecan. The change of country is now almost as remarkable as the change of occurrences. The precipitous cliffs & lofty mountain ranges of the Old Road have disappeared. The country is still all rock, but the rocks are not very high & are generally sloping & covered with wood. The meeting of fellow travellers & the bustle & activity of the crews of laden canoes, who seem to be driving the most arduous of all trades, gives the scene a still more striking contrast. On the Old Road from Lake Superior to Lac l'Croix I did not meet a single traveller of any descrip- tion, and accidentally with two small parties of Indians. The entrance into Lake Nemecan was made pleasant by a soft and bright afternoon and a calm lake. Islands as usual in all directions obstructed the view, and generally confine it to a mile or so in extent. Several Indians from their wigwams on the islands, aroused by the chant of my light hearted crew, give chase in their little canoes. I was unwilling to be delayed by them, and being desirous to improve a delightful evening, encamp be- yond their reach. I found however, that they would follow me, so that I allowed them to come up. They brought presents of blueberries, that grow in this country in very great profusion and large, for which I give them some tobacco and leave them. One of the men had a collar on his neck curiously ornamented with claws of animals that I wanted to buy, but he said he liked it too much to part with it. After proceeding a mile or more, I perceived one of the canoes in chase again & anxious to encamp beyond their sight or knowledge, stop'd for him. He proved to be a young Indian dispatched with a collar for me, ornamented with claws. He said that they feared I would take them for bad Indians because I did not get the collar, but they were good Indians; that they thought my unwillingness to stop was because they were bad Indians, but they were good Indians. I gave him tobacco & a glass of whiskey which he ask'd for, saying it would make him very happy, for the collar, and assured him that I thought them good Indians. He left us much pleased with his errand and his bargain. My crew seemed elated by the splendor of the evening; a rising moon and perfectly placid lake render the travelling agreeable and I proceed for 8 miles beyond the Indians and encamp in a good place on an island. The men ask'd if I would go on, but believing that they would take as much time from the following day, to cook &c. I thought it more advisable to stop. Of the distance travelled in the course of a 4 2o THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY day, I make no mention, partly because any estimate of mine, made of a route thro' islands and over portages &c, in a canoe, the rate of going of which I know not, would be very uncertain; and because when our surveys are complete, they can be ascertained with precision. Descent of the three Lac 1' Croix portages is about 44 feet. Temp, of atmos. at noon 74 sun set .... 00 " " Lac PCroix Portage 2 feet from surface in lake, . . 72 " " Vermillion Lake at surface 75 Saturday, July 26. Having made a good day's journey yesterday over two lakes and part of two others, over three portages and the con- necting straits, I give the men time to clean themselves & have break- fast, and the usual gumming of the canoe being done, embark on Nemecan Lac at 7 a.m. Sturgeon and whitefish abound in this hand- some lake and the Indians resort here occasionally to take them. It continues choked with islands, mostly small. When speaking of islands in this country, the explanation should be made that small and large rocks, or ranges of rocks, are always meant. The decay of leaves &c, in the crevices encourages the growth of the small pine, birch and cedar that cover such as have crevices or uneven surfaces. If smooth, they are bare of vegetation of any kind. The soil or earth however begins to increase, and at the portages and in the vallies I have seen several places where I could drive a tent pin! The islands of Lake Nemecan are of granite and micaceous schist (I think), both alternat- ing and associating. Veins of white quartz run thro' the mica rock, sometimes winding like serpents in form. The micaceous rock is usually at an inclination of near 45 to the N. still running E. and W., & a little N. of E. & S. of W. The granite now contains a fair proportion of mica, and the hornblend is disappearing in the granite, and is re- markable for the large masses of flesh color'd feldspar and white quartz that it contains quite distinct from each other. Leave Lake Nemecan over a short portage into a narrow, winding strait half a mile long, that carries us to another short portage, from whence we pass into another narrow, winding strait about 3 miles long into Lac l'Pluie. The first of these is called the Little New Portage of Lac Nemecan. There is another and more direct water communication from Lac Nemecan to Lac l'Pluie by the Nemecan River, which is S. of the Little New Portage, & where the Line will pass. It is said to be a longer route & therefore not travelled. One short portage only is to be made, which is over the Chaudiere Falls 1 of the River Nemecan, and they empty di- 1 Kettle Falls. BOOK ELEVEN 421 rectly into Lac PPluie. There are no rapids in the River Nemecan, so that there can be nothing but the choice of a shorter road with two portages, that gives the route I pass'd an advantage over the longer one with one portage, in the estimation of the canoe men. The Chaudiere Falls are so called because of a hole worn in the rock at the side of the fall in shape like a kettle, which the tradition is, was the work of savages. It is plainly the work of a boulder stone set in motion by the rapids when they overflowed the spot, of which fact there are ample other evidences. The little stream by which I descended to Lac PPluie has a gentle current, is of 20 & 30 yards width, and winds the greater part of its distance thro' rushes and high grass. The entrance into Lac La Pluie is not sudden. The little river ends in a basin of about two miles length, containing rocky islands. The Nemecan River empties into the W. end of this basin over the Chaudiere Falls. They are not in sight from the canoe track, but five minutes deviation displays them. The descent is about 8 feet. Thence passing thro' a defile of rocks where there is considerable current, enter upon the first part of Lac 1' Pluie. At this defile observed Indian wigwams on an island & the chant of my crew as usual drew them all to the shore. Instead of coming off in their canoes I was received more stately by a salute, each man dis- charging his gun in the air. Of course, I felt obliged to stop — It proved to be a party on a fishing expedition to the Falls of the Chaudiere. They were very civil & not inquisitive about my business, altho' I could not be mistaken for a trader. It is most probable they were advised of my approach & business beforehand, which explains both the salute and their little curiosity. Made them a present of a little tobacco and a few flints, which they said they were in want of, and took my leave. The lake now swells in all directions & the view is limited only by islands. The course is S. of W. We pass to a place called the Detroit over this first enlargement of the lake about 12 miles. It seems to be formed by deep bays that extend on either shore. The strait is rocky and must be entered with caution. Some of the rocks are hidden. Encamp at this Detroit on the slope of a rocky island, it being too late to make the next traverse that ensues. Temp, of atmos. at 7 a.m 65 " " Lac Nemecan, 2 ft 73 " Lac l'Pluie, on shore 72 Sunday, July 27. Heavy showers with thunder and lightning and a high wind prevent embarkation til eleven a.m. It continues cloudy and sultry; pursue my voyage amidst the islands of Lac PPluie, which may be some thousands in number. The shape or size of the lake is not to be known by travelling the canoe track and must remain for future observation. It appears to be extremely irregular, and its width in bays 422 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY probably much exceeds the distance from portage to portage. The di- rection of the islands seems to be E. and W. and N.E. and S.W. gener- ally, but not without exceptions. They are of granite, but the stratified micaceous rock heretofore described prevails. It is traversed by quartz. The islands are still lower than in Lake Nemecan and more earth is apparent. The course of the canoe track is W. & S.W. The River l'Pluie passes from S.W. end of the lake and in this neighborhood, the main shores exhibit appearances of earth & soil sufficient in extent of level &c, for the purposes of agriculture. This novel sight did not fail to strike me with interest and with pleasure. The wild rice also was in sight in the bays & distant Indian wigwams in the rice neighborhood, shew'd that they were eagerly waiting the harvest time. The River of Lac l'Pluie 1 (the first river in the interior) flows from the lake over a little rapid of two feet descent, and shortly after another similar rapid, and thence two miles or so to the Hudson's Bay Compy.'s trading post, known as the Fort of River of Lac l'Pluie. At these little rapids the river takes the same size very nearly which is preserved to its outlet into the Lake of the Woods. Descending the second rapid a handsome lawn coated with high grass presents itself, which I under- stood was an old lookout station of the Hudson's Bay Co. during the times of opposition, when he who first saw the approach of an Indian's canoe, and first got possession, was the owner of the spoils. Thence the advantage of these "look-outs," which now is of no other earthly use than to please the eye of the traveller and recall scenes far more de- lightful. About 2 miles from this is the Falls of the River La Pluie, and on the N. side is situate the present Hudson's Bay Co. house, and op- posite to it, is a post just erected by the American Fur Company, at this time, however, without a tenant. The falls are broken into several sheets, but form a beautiful cascade of about twenty-five feet descent and five or six hundred feet or more in width. The Hudson's Bay Co. fort, as called, consists of a rude dwelling house, facing the cascade & a little below it, a warehouse forming another face, & the men's quar- ters the third face of a square, the fourth being the river front, with a large gate way. It is enclosed by high pickets, & from the dwelling house thro' the gate way is a fine view of the cascade. This was the old Hudson's Bay Co. house. The North West Co. house is a mile down the river on the same side. This, it seems, since the coalition of the two companies 2 has been preferred, and the N.W. establishment is 1 Rainy River. 'After Canada became British, in 1763, numbers of fur traders spread over the country and encroached upon the Hudson's Bay Company's territories, then over a century old. These individual speculators finally combined into the North West Fur BOOK ELEVEN 423 already in ruins. The portage at these falls is a very short and easy post. A most violent storm of wind and rain commences about 5 o'clock, and I accept of Mr. McGillivray's invitation to send my private baggage to the fort and quarter there. In the interior, private baggage always in- cludes your blankets, and blankets always means your bed. At supper a dish of green peas is set before me, much to my astonish- ment, and afterwards some raspberries, quite comme il faut. Mr. G. has a garden that would produce whatever he pleased but little at- tention is paid to it, and potatoes are all they care to grow. Peas, beans, wheat, rye and Indian corn &c. come to maturity here & the consola- tion is great that with industry and ingenuity, man can subsist in this region, when with the union of both it would have been in vain in a great portion of the country Eastward. Here both soil and climate admit of cultivation, but there, neither. The unfortunate wounded American, in care of Mr. McGillivray I learned was doing well, and had no danger to apprehend but the mortification of the limb (the arm). Regretted not being able from the lateness of the hour to see him. Understood that he was in want of nothing. The conjecture that his squaw wife was accessory to the outrage is confirmed by the fact that when it was whis- pered that the wounded American was returning to the fort, in care of a trader, she instantly left it & attempted to take her two daughters along, but Mr. McGillivray detained the children. He states that he called to his wife to come to him after he was shot, but she would not & left him, taking her children with her. After he concealed himself in the bushes, he says the Indian call'd to know where he was, but he feared to an- swer; but that if his knife even had been in his possession, he thinks he still could have dispatched the Indian. He suffered to the extreme by loss of blood and famine, before Mr. Stuart found him, when he says he had crawled to the river to terminate his miseries by seeking the rapids. l Company of Montreal. The resulting competition was so intense and so demoralizing that in 1821 the companies amalgamated, securing a license, to hold for twenty-one years, giving monopoly in trade over the vast regions west and northwest of the Hud- son's Bay Company's old grants. In 1838 the Hudson's Bay Company acquired sole rights for twenty-one years. This expired in 1859. Since then the district has been open to all (Ency. Brit. Hudson's Bay Co.). 1 John Tanner, the wounded man had, when a child, been taken by the Indians and had grown up amongst them in the Great Lake country and Red River country to the west. He had married an Indian woman and had six children living at the time of this attempt to murder him. For a detailed account of the incident see Narrative of the Captivity and Adventures of John Tanner by Edwin James — New York, G. & C. & H. Carvill, 1830, on pages 269-278. The references to Major Delafield and his help to the wounded man are on pages 277 and 278. 424 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY For the purpose of making my canoe as light as possible, I leave at the fort at La Pluie my provisions for the return voyage, viz. 2 bags corn I keg pork i bag flour I keg whiskey i bag bread i box minerals Throughout the night a very violent storm of wind and rain, wind N.E. Monday, July 28. At daybreak the storm still rages, soon after abates and at 7 a.m. I commence the descent of the River la Pluie. The wind being fair, the water high, and consequently the current very strong, I descend at a rapid rate. About 9 m. below the fort on the left, or American side, is the residence of a Mr. Roy, a Frenchman who has settled here, an old North West servant who married a native & preferred to reside in the interior when free. He has a large family. His daughter is the wife of Mr. McGillivray at the fort & Mr. Ferguson, I understand, has a son of his with him as interpreter. There is some ground cleared around his log hut & I presume with the good fishery that is before his door he is enabled to live by his labor. About 3 p.m. pass the first rapid of this river, called the Manitou, descent about 3 feet. One hour afterwards pass the second & last rapid, below the fort called the Long Sault. It is about one mile long; the descent about five feet. Both are of safe and easy descent with laden canoe. Travel til after sun set and encamp on the N. shore. The general direction of the river is about W. altho' it has occasionally been so circuitous that a fair wind became foul. It has kept a uniform width of about 500 feet. The banks are level & seldom rise above 10 feet, are commonly 4 or 5 feet high on the river, ascending gently as you recede. The soil is rich. Temp, of atmos. at 4 p.m. 72 . Some rain & cloudy during day. Temp, at sunset, 68° " of River la Pluie one foot from surface 70 . Tuesday, July 29. Am delayed embarking til 7 a.m. by the neces- sity of gumming the canoe. The gum, it seems, was too soft, not being boiled enough, so that running thro' these warm waters, it becomes still softer and rough, making the canoe run slowly as well as leak. At 10 a.m. overtake the canoe of freemen, with Mr. Dease passenger: the same that left the Sault St. Marie on the day that I did, and afterwards Fort William on the same day; they taking the New Road, I the Old. They were breakfasting in company with a canoe from the Red River, bound to Montreal. A Catholic Priest was of the party, on his return from a tour of some years' residence at the Red River settlement. I give the Priest a letter for the wounded American, Mr. Tanner, at Fort la Pluie, telling him that I shall return in a few days, with a surgeon 1 in 1 Dr. John McLoughlin (sec his Journal, Archives Hudson's Bay Co.). BOOK ELEVEN 425 company, and will afford him every assistance in my power. The Priest had not seen Mr. Ferguson in the Lake of the Woods, but had heard he was there. The canoe of freemen, it seemed, were much out of humor. They had severally brought with them some Indian goods from Montreal, that were taken away from them by Mr. McGillivray at the fort above, on the pretence that they were carrying them into the In- dian country for the purpose of trade, contrary to the provisions of the charter of the Hudson's Bay Gomp'y, which gives them the exclusive trade in the country W. & N. of the Height of Land to Hudson's Bay East of the Height, therefore, individual traders may not lawfully enter into competition with the Company. Learn from the Priest also that Mr. Thompson was in camp at the mouth of the river when he passed. Proceed, and at one o'clock meet Mr. Thompson, his son & Dr. Bigsby ascending the river. Mr. Thomp- son stated that he had made the circuit of the Lake of the Woods; had neither seen, nor heard of Mr. Ferguson; that the Lake was much larger than he anticipated, having many very deep bays; in shape it was very irregular; and contained several thousand islands. He had made frequent observations for latitude & longitude in all parts of the lake, and thought the N.W. point was somewhere near the du Rat or Musk-rat Portage, which is the pass from the Lake of the Woods to the Winnepec River. I expressed my regret to Mr. Thompson that he had not seen Mr. Ferguson, who had written me that he repaired there on purpose to meet him. Mr. Thompson inquired about the work done by Mr. Ferguson, saying he knew not where to commence. I told him that Mr. Ferguson had left Lake Nemecan to meet him in the Lake of the Woods. He said he would stop and work in Lake Nemecan and that we should find him there on our return. After dining with Mr. Thompson, I proceed on my route & he up the river. Arrive at the mouth of the river at 5 p.m. There are two passes from this river to the Lake of the Woods, one on the right, the other to the left of a long Sand Island, that lies directly in & off its mouth. There is most water on the right side, which my guide takes. On the point of the island leave a letter on bark for Mr. Ferguson, fearing that he might return, whilst I was advancing, acquainting him with my intended route to the du Rat Portage and back by the canoe track in case I should miss him, desiring him to wait at the Fort la Pluie. From the point of the Sand Island off the mouth of the River la Pluie, a traverse must be made to an island in the lake, distant about seven miles. The lake spreads on both sides suddenly. To the S. & W. particularly, no land is in sight. It is said, however, to be a low sandy plain. The water is shallow, 7 to 10 feet, so that a little wind renders it a rough and difficult traverse. A high sea from the S.W. made it a tedious and troublesome traverse to me. When in the middle of the traverse, saw a canoe to windward that 426 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY I thought might be Mr. Ferguson's. Approached it, much to the dis- comfiture of some of my Canadians, whose nerves were not braced to endure the waves. It proved to be a trader from the North who had left the Rat Portage in the morning & had neither seen or heard of Mr. Ferguson. Feel somewhat startled at the fact, Mr. Thompson having made the circuit & the trader the direct line of the lake & can only suppose that Mr. Ferguson is following the circuit after Mr. Thompson. Make the traverse at sun set, and land on the island in a furious gale. The canoe is unladed & on shore: tent pitched only in time to protect me from a violent thunder-shower & wind. The river la Pluie deserves its character of a fine river. In the lan- guage of the country, it is a river direct, that is, not a river swelling into little lakes, contracting into little straits, and obstructed by rapids. With a uniform width and heavy current, it empties a large volume into the Lake of the Woods. It receives several rivers on its South shore, and two of them that I observed were of size; the first some 12 or 15 m. below the fort, which communicates with the Fond du Lac Department; the other is below the Long Sault Rapid, and is called the Rapid River. A rapid indeed is in sight from the La Pluie River. There were some inferior ones coming in on the same side but I could not learn that they were known or of any consequence. On the North side also some very small streams empty in, but none of them, I believe, navigable or of any consequence. The country, I am told, soon rises, as you penetrate either N. or S. from the river. The valley of the La Pluie River is never- theless respectable for its extent & soil, and might afford much nourish- ment to the starving Indians and starving traders and voyageurs that I hear or see whenever I meet them. The rock formations only appear at the falls, & at the two rapids, which I have left unexamined 'til my return. Below the Manitou Rapid is found the white earth, as called, which is used as a pigment by the Indians & by the Canadians mixed with sturgeon oil, to paint the bouts of the canoes. The barrier of the rapids in sight on the Rapid River, some one has told Dr. Bigsby, is lime stone, which I much doubt. Small loose fragments of a porous yellow lime stone, containing re- mains, is strewed on the shore of the river from top to bottom, but it cannot, I think, belong here. These unsettled points are left for my return, when I shall feel more at liberty to explore. The traverse island where I encamp is of granite, its shores in parts sand. The Canadians call the La Pluie River 90 m. long. It may be about 80 miles. Its depth is twelve and fifteen feet, the water turbid. Temp, of atmosphere at 4 p.m. 86°. Wednesday, July 30. Whilst the men gum the canoe & breakfast, I take an early breakfast and embark, sun an hour high. Continue to BOOK ELEVEN 427 pass amidst islands, generally small & so crowded that the dimensions of the lake could not even be imagined. Course until noon was N.E. At a well known stopping place, called the Roche Rouge (a granite point of an island) Indians come off to me on a begging expedition, in a heavy shower of rain. They bring a quantity of blueberries. I give them some tobacco and proceed. They said there was a Chief of their band in the wigwam, and, true or not, I sent him a present of a piece of tobacco. The course since noon has been generally N.W.: the islands very numerous and crowded, the water shoal and foul, frequently covered with a green scum of vegetable matter. Toward sunset meet a brigade of four canoes. They approach in fine style, abreast of each other, the crews all singing and paddling in their best manner. They proved to be part of a larger brigade from the Athabasca Country, bringing down packs, and discharged clerks with their families, and broken-down and super-annuated voyageurs, and freemen, all to seek their fortunes in some new mode of life, when set free in Montreal. They inform me that they have seen Mr. Ferguson that morning, in camp a few miles this side of the Muskrat Portage. Rejoiced at the prospect of soon meeting some Christian soul, with whom I could once more communicate in a Christian language, I hastened on the voyage and at sun set encamped on a curious little pass over a large island near the middle of the lake, & possibly the middle of the island too, where a portage is to be made on the morrow. Temp, at sun set of atmos. 68°. " of Lake of the Woods one foot from surface, 74 . Thursday, July 3 1 st. The portage made in the middle of the Lake of the Woods, is over a short and narrow flat, which has the appearance of being a recent alluvion that has closed a passage between two rocky and large islands. It is about 120 yards long. A strait leads to it, and from it, and, it is said, to go round the island would be a long journey. Of its extent or shape however I can learn nothing, the information of my guide who has travelled the country for thirty years being no more than he who travels it but once. The canoe track is their home & it is their pride to know every crook & turn in it; but to attempt the least deviation is precisely like the driving of swine. They will seek every chance to come back & obstinately go forward. At this portage I found a number of that delicate variety of shell of that I had before taken a solitary one of from Lake St. Clair (lymnea) . They were floating on the surface of the water, supported in part by the grass. Many of them were in junction. I was obliged to put them in a bottle of water, to prevent breakage. Embark from the island portage shortly after sun rise. The lake con- tinues glutted with innumerable rocky islands, varying in size from a 428 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY quarter to one and two miles in length: are covered with light wood, birch, pine, cedar, sapin, &c. The islands are granite and green stone. Course is N.W. Extent of the lake not seen in any direction. Pass four other canoes from the Athabasca laden with packs & bringing down discharged clerks with wives & children (half-breeds) in goodly number. They were of the same party with the brigade pass'd yesterday. They confirm the fact of Mr. Ferguson being in camp near the du Rat Portage. At 4 p.m. as we approach a narrow pass where there is a strong cur- rent, my crew take a pipe, and the canoe is floating thro' the strait, when Mr. Ferguson's camp unexpectedly is in sight close by. The sur- prise caused the whoop of the canoe men, and the chant instantly brought the whole party to the shore. Their joy at seeing some one from the land of their friends and their home was not perhaps exceeded by mine in meeting with friends after the long, lonesome, laborious and dreary voyage I had performed. I first possessed them with their letters from wives or friends. A quiet hour ensued, the happiness of which can only be known to those who are similarly situated. The evening was spent in interchanging our relations of occurrences for a year past as well of public as of private affairs. Friday, August i . Mr. Ferguson remains in camp here for the pur- pose of ascertaining latitude. He had come around the S. & W. shore of the lake, and missed Mr. Thompson who had proceeded on, making the circuit entire. The day is cloudy with frequent showers, so that we all remain in camp. Mr. Ferguson gets no observation. The S. shore of the Lake of the Woods is a low and flat sand beach. In the rear as far as is seen, the country is flat and swampy. There are two or three little streams coming into the lake on the S. shore, the one within two miles of the River La Pluie. They both, I am told, have the appearance of being little or nothing more than drains from the marshes in the rear. On the N. shore there are several streams coming from the North, all tumbling over rapids (Dr. Bigsby) . Very deep bays chequer the W. & N. sides of the lake, all filled with countless islands. On the S. shore were strewed many masses of the yellow, porous lime stone, containing organic remains, such as I saw on the banks of the River la Pluie. The trilobite is imbedded in it inter alias. The lime stone is all out of place. Observing that there was no growth of wood in this lake differing from the others that would account for its name, I was led to inquire, and was informed that the name Lac du Bois was now attached to it by a mistake of the Indian name. The savages call it Min-es-tic, which means Lake of the Islands. The Indian word for wood is mis-tic and the similar sounds were readily confounded & thence it is called Lake of the Woods, instead of its far more appropri- BOOK ELEVEN 429 ate name Lake of the Islands. There are certainly several thousand islands in this lake, including those reported to be in its deep bays, which form a large portion of its area. It is everywhere shallow, as far as I have been, or heard of. The islands are green stone and granite. The green stone I should think prevails in the W. end. Some of the islands (especially the one upon which I am now encamped), are of a very peculiar rock that needs further examination. Take several specimens. Temp, of water 2 feet from surface in a little bay by the camp, 72 . Saturday, August 2. I accompany Mr. Ferguson to the Portage du Rat, where he observes for latitude. This is a portage of one post to the river Winnepec over a ridge of granite that overlies green stone; both are traversed by seams of white quartz, or perhaps they alternate and are in junction. At the landing the formation is green stone pass- ing into slate. Ascending the Height half its elevation you come to the granite. At the Winnepec River it is granite, so that it probably ad- joins rather than overlies. The Winnepec River runs out of the Lake of the Woods a little N. of the portage. Did not see its outlet. It is a long river, of three days' march to Lake Winnepec. Has many rapids and I am told ten or twelve little portages near each other, and more than thirty in the course of the river. The whole river is obstructed by rapids & frequently swells into little lakes, making it rather a river of the country (as the phrase is) than a river direct. At the portage we find the remnant of a band of Indians, the larger part having a few days before gone down the river. They were living entirely upon blueberries, of which they had a great quantity, and were glad to give us as many as I would take in exchange for tobacco. The bargains being made, I presented each of the men a piece of tobacco (the only Indian article I carry with me). They are much pleased and inquire who we are, saying they had not been treated so kindly for a long time. Seeing Mr. Ferguson use his instrument, observing for lati- tude, the oldest inquired with considerable solemnity what object we had in view. The interpreter explained and they were quite satisfied. I had been told that this band was impudent & troublesome, but to us they were civil & inoffensive. It is true, we were the strongest party. The women, both young and old, were as anxious to get tobacco as the men. I gave them all some. The morning was cloudy and Mr. Ferguson is not satisfied with his observation. We return to the camp. Temperature at sun set 64 . BOOK TWELVE August j, 1823 to October 24, 1823 Sunday, August 3. In camp on an island near the du Rat Port- age, Lake of the Woods. Having a few days yet that Mr. Ferguson thinks he can spend in the interior, he consults me as to the objects upon which he should bestow his attention. I advise him to complete his survey of the S. & W. shore of the lake, as far as the Winnepec River, to establish the latitude of the du Rat Portage & then to return and finish such observations as are necessary to render perfect his work of the two past seasons. He requires, as he informed me, some further observations at the Height of Land, & to finish a section between Fort William & the Old Grand Portage in Lake Superior. He leaves camp in the morning, and carries the survey of the lake shore, from this place to the head of the Winnepec, and gets a good ob- servation for latitude at the Rat Portage, and returns in the afternoon, having completed all that he desires for the present in this lake. The N.W. point of the Lake of the Woods we find is not an easy point to ascertain. The truth is that the N.W. end of the lake is indented by very deep bays. The N. shore has still larger and deeper bays, so that to find the most N.W. point, all these bays and inlets must be explored. The head of the Winnepec River and the du Rat Portage are somewhere near the spot. A question too may be raised, by what rule is the most N.W. point to be ascertained? It is of all importance to the Hudson's Bay Compy. whether we extend our jurisdiction to the Winnepec (its entrance) or not. The portage probably can be made elsewhere. The ascertainment of the N.W. point must settle this question. It is very certain that the N.W. point will be North more than half a degree probably of Par. N. 49 , so that the line to be drawn South again to Par. 49 , will have a curious effect here. If it is due S., it will interfere with and give back islands that this Com- mission will, I presume, dispose of when they run the Line thro' the middle of the lake. To run S. to 49 along the lake shore appears to be the just & reasonable mode. The observations made for latitude will be inserted hereafter. Having finished the work in this lake as far as the season admits, we embark at 3 p.m., turning our faces homeward &c. Pleasant sensations BOOK TWELVE 431 ensue the performance of an arduous undertaking when required by- duty. In this instance mine are doubly so. The reflection of having dis- charged a duty that proved irksome, more on account of my loneliness than any other cause, is rendered gratifying by the far more agreeable manner of my return than my advance. Both canoes return in company, and to equalize our speed I take one of Mr. Ferguson's crew, which arrangement gives us each seven men. My canoe proves to be the best running one, and I arrive at the place where my old guide says we must either encamp or proceed to the island portage. It being sun set, we encamp. Temp, at sun set 64 . Find a fragment of steatite on the green stone rock of this encamp- ment, but could not discover any locality. Mr. Roy the interpreter says he has seen several fragments, but never saw it in place. Monday, August 4. Embark at sunrise, both canoes in company, as is our intention for the rest of the voyage to Lac 1' Croix. Breakfast at the island portage; dine at the Roches Rouges; and sup on the Sand Island in the mouth of the River La Pluie, a day's voyage that would not disgrace a Northwest tale! When approaching the Roche Rouge, the Chief, as he was called, to whom I sent a present of a piece of tobacco on my voyage down, knowing my canoe, came off to me. He inquired for the Chief and presented me with a Macache of blueberries. I gave him a dinner of pork and corn &c, and a present of some more tobacco. He eye'd the flask of whiskey very closely that was on the oil cloth when we dined, but did not ask for any. The civility with which I treated him, I conclude, made him forego that which was nearest his heart. I ordered the flask to the cave in the canoe, (the mess chest) and his eye followed it most wistfully. It has been a rule with me to give the Indians no whiskey. It seldom can be done with- out subjecting yourself to their importunities for more. And if they are indulged, drunkenness, broils and wounds are sure to follow. In the course of the afternoon, stop'd upon an island of granite that was traversed by a vein of white quartz associated with flesh color'd feldspar in crystals. The crystals were very large, from 4 to 7 inches diameter. They were irregularly thrown together and presented per- fect sides, but none of them in view had terminations. I broke out a large one with perfect sides but, its summit being wanting, it was not worthy so distant a journey. The quartz was running into the trans- parent, and the vein was a handsome display. On the voyage in the morning when the lake was calm saw an object ahead looking like a rock; approached it cautiously. It proved to be an immense pickerel, having in its mouth a whitefish of 8 or 9 lbs. weight. The fish allowed the foreman to seize him, but in vain; he freed the whitefish & flounced 432 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY away. The fish returned again to the surface for its prey, but once more escaped the hold of another of the crew. We took the whitefish & had it served for supper. It proved as delicious as the famed whitefish of Mackinac and the Sault. The distance from the Muskrat Portage to the mouth of the La Pluie River, or the canoe track thro' the Lake of the Woods is about 60 miles. The Canadians call it 90. Temp, at 6 a.m. 63 . " sun set 68°. Tuesday, August 5. Breakfast before embarkation from the Sand Island, which is 5 or 6 miles long. Mr. Ferguson wishes to observe at the S. point of the river, his former camp, for latitude and to run the courses & distances of the river as he ascends. We therefore separate, he going round the head of the island to the S. point and I proceed to examine the rocks of the Rapid River, which is as high as we suppose he can get this day. At the head of the island meet a light canoe de- scending. A clerk and a trader with nine men were in it, dispatched from the fort on the river in chase of a canoe of freemen that had pass'd the fort in the night, carrying Indian goods to the Red River. They appeared intent upon their prey, and would no doubt overtake them. The canoe they were chasing pass'd our camp about sun rise. Both parties were armed. The fort at River La Pluie is the first Compy. post within or W. of the Height, which is the line of the monopoly, so that this duty of violence and plunder & self-right too, as the Compy. holds, devolves upon Mr. McGillivray, the factor there. A trust of this kind as it regards its energetic execution could not be placed in better hands. Mr. McGillivray is a half breed, and the most accomplished & intelli- gent of any that I have met. His travels in Europe, and European fash- ions are ill assorted, I mean the relation of the first, and display of the latter, with the squaw wife and savage inmates that surround him. His wife tho' a native is a half breed, upon recollection. I arrived at the Rapid River in the afternoon and land at the rapids, which are close by, and in sight from the river. The rock proved to be compact green stone, containing black flint, and not a particle of lime- stone could be found here, Dr. Bigsby informer to the contrary not- withstanding. Took specimens for myself and the doctor. The fall in sight is about 10 feet descent. The rapid continues, however, further back than I explored, so that its height is not known. Encamp at the mouth of the Rapid River, and shortly after Mr. Ferguson arrives and encamps. Mr. Whistler brings me one of the black bodied gulls of this region, which I skin and preserve. Temp, at 7 a.m. 65 . " sun set 67 . Saw flocks of turkey buzzards this day. BOOK TWELVE 433 Wednesday, August 6th. Embark at 6 a.m. from mouth of the Rapid River, first having breakfasted. Precede Mr. Ferguson whose work on the river detains him. A short distance above this river, on the S. side of the La Pluie, the rock formation crops out & is a compact green stone. Do not perceive it again til I arrive at the Long Sault Rapid. It is here similar green stone. Advance to the Manitou Rapid & encamp to wait Mr. Ferguson's arrival. The rock in place here is also green stone, of coarser grain than the Long Sault green stone, and its hornblende is occasionally in crystals. Search at the foot of the Rapid Manitou on the S. shore for the white earth which is used as paint but the water is so high that I can neither see nor obtain it, much to my disappointment. Mixed with sturgeon's oil, the natives and Canadians use it as paint; the former for their persons, the latter for their canoes. In the morning, rain. Heavy clouds throughout the day, wind N.E. Temp, of River La Pluie 2 feet from surface 72 . Temperature of atmos. at 6 a.m. 64 , at sun set 75 . Thursday, August 7. Remain encamped until 7 a.m., when Mr. Ferguson arrives. He attempts to ascend the Manitou Rapid, with the aid of the canoe-line. The rope parts, and one of his crew, in the bustle, slips from the rocks into the rapid. He is whirled into the eddy where he can touch the bottom, by which circumstances alone he is saved. Another attempt is made and they ascend. The river being very high, makes it a difficult task; and in such case it is better to make a little portage over the rocks on the N. side, as my guide did, and as it would appear is often done, from the track on the shore. A gale of wind blowing from the W., with the appearance of a storm, that might de- tain Mr. Ferguson some days, if he waited to survey the river. He con- cludes to advance as rapidly as he can & we proceed in company up the river. On the N. shore at the head of the Manitou Rapid is an an- cient clearing of half a mile extent upon the river front, that appears to have been a spot visited by the Indians in the Spring to fish, from time immemorial. The poles of many wigwams are here with some of their mats, canoe wood, &c. concealed in the bushes, as if they would soon return. Not a soul is now here. There is a very regularly shaped mound of earth at this place that may be artificial, but nobody knows the fact. In the rear of it, and out of sight from the river front, I noticed a small field of thriving Indian corn. It was about half-grown. The gale con- tinues throughout the day, and assists us very much in the ascent of the river. Considerable rain. The river rises in consequence of the W. wind about 2 feet, so as to be level with its banks in many places. Observe fragments of yellow porous limestone in small pieces for the whole course of this river, but no trace of it in place. It contains shells and madrepores. 434 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Arrive at the fort at La Pluie River at 8 p.m. & encamp. Both canoes in company. At night, rain. Friday, August 8. Storm of wind and rain continue. Mr. Ferguson proceeds to the head of La Pluie River to observe &c. I visit Mr. Tanner, the wounded American in the fort. Understanding he wished to leave the country, concluded to give him and his children a passage. Found, however, that altho convalescing and out of danger, he was not able to perform a canoe voyage. Make him a present of a bag of corn, a bag of flour, some grease and some tea. For the next month or two therefore he would not be under obligations to strangers for subsistence. Altho' Mr. McGillivray assured me he was not in want, I afterwards ascertained that they were all destitute of provisions in the fort and living upon fish. I visited the American post on the oppo- site shore to endeavor to procure a passage for Mr. Tanner out of the country, but it was vain to ask any questions there. A Mr. Davenport (a young man) was in charge, and three or 4 persons about him, all quite destitute. He told me they had nothing but fish to live upon, as they might take them, and that for two days, pending the gale they had not been able to take a single sturgeon. He spoke with much sang froid upon the subject, as if used to it, and said shortly they would do well enough, because in about a fortnight the wild rice (folle avoine) would be fit to gather & the Indians would bring it to them. He desired me, however, to say to Mr. Stuart at Mackinac that they were starving, and could attend to no other business than their subsistence. He could do nothing for Mr. Tanner, and no canoes of theirs would leave the country this Fall. Mr. Tanner may be obliged to Winter at La Pluie Fort. He had been impressed with the idea that the Americans oppo- site were very inimical to him, & said to me that he even feared that they would shoot him if he went there. He had been told that they had said he deserved his fate &c. Poor Tanner is an ignorant man, bred amongst Indians, and possesses all their credulity & superstition. He is considered the best animal hunter in the country; and I much fear his services are considered of sufficient value to justify the tricks of the trade, to retain him where he is, in the estimation of a North Wester! Mr. McGillivray would not be a party to such outrages. On the contrary, he was desirous that I should take the man with me. If there was any de- sign in impressing him with the monstrous beliefs he had been taught, it was the mischief of servants, not of the master. The light canoe that was dispatched after the freemen carrying goods into the interior re- turned this morning. They overtook the chase, at the Island Portage in the Lake in the Woods, were recognized & cautioned by the freemen not to apporach. The freemen were all armed & prepared to defend their property & gave notice that they would do so. The dispatched BOOK TWELVE 435 canoe could not carry their purpose by force, and were obliged to return to the fort unsuccessful, much to the disappointment of Mr. McGillivray. Mr. Ferguson discharges his interpreter (Roy) here, and I settle his account of wages by giving Mr. McGillivray a draft for ninety dollars upon General Porter at sight, favor of T. Thain Compy.'s Agent in Montreal, of this date. Mr. Ferguson's Acct. is forwarded by Mr. Stuart to Fort William to be settled there, he not knowing what charges to make for certain articles. In the afternoon proceed to the head of the river and encamp with Mr. Ferguson. The rock formation of the falls at La Pluie River Fort is coarse sienite. Take specimens. Temp, sun set 52 , cloudy. Saturday, August 9th. Cloudy and appearance of rain. Mr. Fer- guson failed obtaining observations last night by reason of the weather and, anticipating further disappointments from state of the weather, we do not hazard the delay, but embark to cross Lac la Pluie at 8 a.m. Have frequent showers during the day, with a fair wind, and arrive at the W. end of the lake at 6 a.m. Meet Mr. Thompson and party at this end of Lac la Pluie. He stated that he had been around the S. shore of the lake, and was then going around the N. shore: that the very numerous and very deep bays indenting the shore had made his voyage long and tedious, that his provisions were exhausted within four days' supply. He does not confer upon business with Mr. Ferguson. Dr. Bigsby asks Mr. Ferguson some questions as to his work and intentions &c. We stop about 10 a.m. & take leave. Encamp on a little island near the narrow strait that leads to the portage from this lake, and I proceed after sun set to the Chaudiere Falls, in search of Indians and whitefish. Find two young Indians and a squaw, who give me a bountiful supply of fish for five plugs of to- bacco. Great abundance of white fish is taken here. A large band of Indians had lately left the fishery for the wild rice grounds. The rock of the Chaudiere Falls is mica slate, coarse, with quartz seams, associated with granite. The Chaudiere Falls take their name from a hole, in size and shape like a kettle, which has been formed in the rock by the side of the falls, at that time when the water overflowed it, by a harder rock or stone, kept in motion by the rapids. The tradition is that the Chaudiere is the work of savages, but I have no doubt it was formed in the same man- ner with similar holes and kettles, found very commonly at most rapids and falls. Sometimes a portage is made by the Chaudiere Falls direct into Lake 436 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Nemecan. By the route my guide takes, we shall pass over two little portages before we arrive upon Lake Nemecan. Temp, at sun set 59 . The Line, to follow the direct communication, must pass from Lac Nemecan by the Nemecan River over the Chaudiere Falls. The water or little strait to which I make the two portages from Lac Nemecan to Lac PPluie or vice versa does not flow from Lac Nemecan, but rises somewhere North of this. Sunday, August 10. Rain, wind E. Cloudy in the afternoon with showers. Embark at 8 a.m. Pass the two short portages and connecting straits between Lac la Pluie and Lac Nemecan, over Lac Nemecan and Lac Vermillion and up the La Croix River to La Croix Portage, where we arrive at sun-set and encamp. In Lac Nemecan find a band of Indians. Stop & carry on a brisk trade exchanging tobacco for blue berries, until they had filled every vessel & man's hat that wished it, in the canoe. It is quite a frolic for both parties. The old women & the children all coming with berries as fast as they could empty their bowls, to get an- other portion of tobacco, I was obliged to desist taking berries &, per- ceiving that each had some tobacco, left them much delighted with their good fortune. Temp, at noon 68°, at sun-set 62 . Monday, August 1 1 . Cloudy with heavy mist. Embark at the first (ascending) of three La Croix portages at half past 5 a.m. and break- fast on the lake side of the third at 8 a.m. Intending to return by the New Road as called & Mr. Ferguson hav- ing occasion to return by the Old, we make our arrangements at this por- tage for the separation. Mr. Whistler anxious to see the new route, and Mr. Ferguson not requiring his services, accompanies me and embarks in my canoe at this place. About the middle of Lac l'Croix the two roads separate. Lac l'Croix is in shape a parallelogram, its length E. & W. about 15 m. & breadth N. and S. 7 m. Take leave of Mr. Ferguson in the middle of the lake. We shape our course to the N.E. & he to the S.E. Pass several islands of coarse mica slate & some of granite. The little island where I stop'd to dine was of mica slate & contained staurotide. It was not handsome, but pretty well characterized. Lac l'Croix contains 445 islands. From its N.E. corner we enter the mouth of the Riviere Malin. Ascend it for about four miles, when we come to a romantic little spot called the Portage de l'lle. The portage is over a little island, which has on either side a pretty fall of about seven feet descent. The river is about 100 yds. wide, its banks low, and of mica slate. Leaving Portage de l'lle, ascend three rapids with the paddle only, and about BOOK TWELVE 437 sun set arrive at another short portage, called Portage McKay. A little island also divides the fall at Portage McKay. It is passed on the W. main shore. Encamp. Ascent at the McKay Portage, 4 feet. Temp, at 6 a.m. 54 . " " sunset 56 , clear. Temp, of Lac l'Croix 2 feet from surface 68°. Tuesday, August 12. Embark from McKay Portage at 6 a.m. Shortly arrive at a bad rapid, which my guide says is frequently pass'd with the canoe, called by him the Little Island Discharge Rapid. I am obliged to make a portage here. Ascent 3 ft. Breakfast & proceed to another portage known as the Third Portage of River Malin and thence to the Grosse Roche Portage which leads to Sturgeon Lake, the former 5 & latter 8 feet ascent. All these portages are very short; the last is the longest. The whole distance from Lac l'Croix to Sturgeon Lake by the Malin River may not be more than 12 or 13 miles, so that the five portages and as many rapids that it has, in this short distance, entitle it to the name Malin. Course of Malin River N.E. Its rock formation mostly coarse mica slate. Its whole ascent 30 feet. Much of the mica slate contains small quartzose nodules that are exposed by the wearing down of the gangue and give the whole a wart- like appearance. Have not seen staurotide since I left Lac l'Croix. From Grosse Roche Portage enter upon Sturgeon Lake. This is a handsome lake, containing many small islands. Our course thro' it has been N.E. & E. to Gross River. It is into this lake that we infer, the direct water communication from the Height to Lac la Croix flows & consequently that the Boundary Line will here join the New Road. Leaving the Old Road in Lake Saganaga by a river known to flow from its N. side westward and said, by a chain of small lakes and rivers, to empty into Sturgeon Lake, discharging a large body of water. This pass between Sturgeon Lake and Lake Saganaga has not been explored for want of time. Our knowledge of it is derived from the Indians and traders, and is confirmed by the fact that there is no communication direct from Lake Saganaga westward by any other than this route. On the contrary, the canoe route of the Old Road from Saganaga W. was over a little portage, where the water flowed thro' a brook into Lake Saganaga from the W. This line will leave Knife Lake, Bois Blanc Lake 6 Crooked Lake to the S. of the Line. Continuing my voyage by the New Road, ascend the Gross River from Sturgeon Lake to the Portage of the Two Rivers. This is a very bad portage of one post. Hills & swamps, made worse by the decay of logs that were put there for a causeway compose the greater part of it. Pass it, and encamp on the E. end. Gross River is a narrow winding stream 438 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY about 3 m. long. Sturgeon Lake about 1 8 m. long. The mica slate, that has been the principal formation thro' the Malin River, begins in Sturgeon Lake, to alternate and associate with granite, and the high granite bluffs of the country E. have their counterparts occasionally here. The mica slate no longer contains the quartz pebbles that gave it a wart like surface. The granite is still with hornblende in abundance, and but little mica. There are veins running thro' the granite, which consist of crystallized feldspar and quartz that have some mica, but they traverse the principal formation having no mica. It consists of feldspar, quartz & hornblende, and I have usually called it granite, thinking this appellation more correct than to call it sienite. There is far more mica however in this formation, excluding the mica slate, than is seen upon the coast of Lake Superior or any part of the voyage eastward. The ascent of the Two River Portage is about 20 feet. The rapids are but partially in sight. Wednesday, August 13. The Two River Portage where we en- camped upon a sloping rock, made most comfortable by a thick carpet of fir tree boughs, carries us to a lake about 2 m. long that takes its name from the next portage. It is known as Lac des Morts. At the E. end of Portage des Morts a few heaps of cobble stones denote some old Indian graves, and a wooden cross denotes a recent one of a Canadian. The portage is of one post, and the road rather good. From Portage des Morts embark upon Lac Dorade. Ascent about 8 feet, the falls or rapids not in sight. Lac Dorade is 15 miles long, and contains many small islands. They are of granite and coarse mica slate, the former pre- vailing. Lac Dorade connects by a narrow winding strait with a pretty little lake of the same name, and thence to the Portage Francoise. This is a long portage of five posts. The W. end is over a swamp where hewn logs once formed a causeway, but having decayed & been thrown out of place, it is now for the distance of one post a difficult and dirty pass. The residue is over an inclined plain of easy passage until we arrive at the W. end, where we descend a hill of about 40 feet to the River Francoise. This River Francoise, to avoid so much of which we make this portage, is a violent & crooked, but narrow stream of very many rapids & my guide says the lazy voyageurs sometimes ascend with difficulty. At the E. end of the portage, it is about 30 feet wide. One of the Canadians kills a porcupine upon this portage, and it was left upon a pole by the river, for the crew of a canoe that was close in our rear, who they knew were in great want. I was much pleased at their humanity & astonished at their reflection, not having had pre- vious occasion to witness either the one or the other. Showers throughout the day. BOOK TWELVE 439 Thursday, August 14. My crew have gluttonized too much the preceding night, by eating flour boiled (in balls) in their corn soup. I was delayed, by reason of headaches amongst the crew and other complaints, embarking 'til 7 a.m., before which time I took my own breakfast, to avoid further delay. The business of eating is uppermost in the thoughts of a Canadian voyageur. Not used to have enough, & used to have that little of the coarsest kind (corn & grease), it is not per- haps strange that they should be used to grumble. With me however they have not only enough, but have flour and pork with their corn to their own liking in quantity, and still grumble. I rejoice therefore in the gorging of last night. They have no faith however in the cause of their maladies, so that I shall profit nothing by the event. Poor devils! Take your fill, but for Heaven's sake cease grumbling has been my prayer 'til forbearance became a fault & the moment I adopted threats and a straitened allowance their murmurs were swallowed with the corn! Strange animals, they will patiently subsist days & weeks upon the tripe du roche, when no provisions can be had; but are never patient when surrounded by a plenty. I know not whether my curses or my praises prevail in behalf of the poor Canadian; certain it is, I hope never again to be exclusively surrounded by them. They are laborious, faith- ful and generally polite. They are never reasonable, and thence a drawback that sets all virtues at defiance. God protect me from an- other voyage into the interior, say I. Once more however we are afloat in our canoe, upon the little River Francoise which continues narrow with rapids, up which we can paddle about one mile and a half to a small lake of some length called Pine Lake; thence thro' two other little lakes and connecting straits (which straits are narrow winding channels over sandy bottoms), to Pine Rapid. Heavy laden canoes make a demi-portage here, but mine easily passes, with the help of the line, and then enters upon Wine-de-go, or Man-eaters Lake. Man-eaters Lake 6 miles long, leads to River de la Pente which is about two miles, to the la Pente Portage. The portage is of one easy post, on the side of a hill, at the base of which the la Pente River, now become diminutive, is murmuring thro the rocks. Its ascent is about 10 feet to the Lac du Baril. This is a pretty lake about 8 m. long, filled with small rocky islands, generally low and flat and covered with birch, pine, sapin, &c. It carries us to Portage du Baril, which is of one post, over a high hill having an ascent and descent about equal, and thence the name, as it gives the portage the barrel shape. From the Lac du Baril Portage enter upon Mille Lac, so called because its very numerous islands give it very much the appearance of little lakes. Proceed about four miles in Mille Lac and encamp on the point of an island of green stone. The course throughout the day has been a 440 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY little N. of E. The country nowhere presents in sight the high, pre- cipitous cliffs of the Old Road South of us. The islands are low and wooded. The mica slate is not so abundant and the granite and green stone prevail. Graphitic granite occurs occasionally here. The water is evidently colder than the water by the old route. Most unfortunately, Mr. Whistler has broken my thermometer, and I shall not be able to note the difference. Muddy creeks & shores never occur. The little straits connecting lakes, or leading to portages, ripple over sand or gravel bottoms. Of course the water is also clearer than it is in some of the straits of the Old Road. I should consider its Temp, to be about 50 . Friday, August 15. Cloudy. Rain in the early part of the morning. Breakfast and embark again on Mille Lac at 8 a.m. Passing by innumerable islands arrive at the mouth of the Riviere de la Savanne. Mille Lac is about twenty two miles long and differs both as to islands and their position &c, from any on the Old Road. The islands are lower, & altho generally rocky, some of them are covered with earth, and may have sandy points running into the lake. The bottom of the lake is sandy & the water clearer and cooler than the waters of the old route. Our course over the Mille Lac to the Riviere la Savanne was a little N. of E. Commence the ascent of this river at 1 p.m. Observed some granite rocks in situ at the mouth of the river, and from thence to place of encampment at night, there is no stone to be seen. The river commences with a width of 150 feet and diminishes gradually. Its banks are low and marshy, sometimes covered with an impenetrable growth of small sapins; at others, are extensive marshy prairies. It seemed very doubtful when or where I should be able to encamp, but having ascended about 12 miles, I arrived at an old encamping ground, which proved dry & was covered with a thick carpet of grass, which afforded a more than commonly good place. The water of the river is very foul, and musquitoes terriblv annoying. At twilight, the singular bird that cries at this hour, perched about the tent, and was identified with one seen by me at the Sault in Mr. Schoolcraft's possession (See Annals of Lyceum No. . . . where it is described by Cooper as a new species by the name of Fringilla Ves- pertine) . No highland is to be seen about this river and it is evident that it flows thro' an extensive plain, low and wet. Night clear, calm and warm. Saturday, August 16. Embark at 6 a.m., still ascending the River la Savanne. It continues with scarcely any current until you approach the portage, where is a little rapid. Its banks are covered with sapin trees. A loose, alluvial soil constitutes the banks, and as they are under- mined, the trees are constantly falling in and across this little river, BOOK TWELVE 441 which occasionally proves a serious delay to the voyageur. When a barrier of this kind occurs, a place is cut only large enough to admit a canoe to pass, but as all canoes in the North are about the same width, the labor of one crew serves all who follow. When within a short dis- tance of the portage from this river, my canoe was pierced by a snag of a sunken tree. A little fountain in my canoe seemed to threaten its filling very soon, and the damage of our corn, &c. The sponge however, which is always carried in a canoe to keep it dry, was thrust in the hole, the canoe was paddled to the bank, and in a minute the whole cargo was landed in the bushes and briars, and my canoe turned bottom-up for repairs. The leak was soon stopped with a few stitches and some gum, and in twenty minutes I was again on the voyage. The Savanne River from its mouth to the portage is about eighteen miles. The Canadians call it 36 miles. It narrows regularly as you approach the portage, where it is about 20 feet wide. No stone of any kind is seen about this river until you arrive at the portage, and there only a few green stone boulders. From this river we cross the Portage la Savanne. It is of five posts, or one and a quarter miles. Is a perfect level over a pine wood swamp, which is made passable by a causeway of hewn logs, three abreast placed the whole extent by the fur companies. Midway on this portage I noticed the wreck of a canoe, and a cross to designate the grave of a voyageur, melancholy insignia of a Northwestern tour. My guide ex- plained that the former was accidentally broken there, when the por- tage was in bad condition; and the grave was that of a Frenchman whose party had in the Winter starved to death on the river Savanne, and he met a similar fate here: an inevitable fate to any crew, that might be arrested in its progress by the frosts of Winter. At the end of Portage la Savanne a canoe arrives whilst I am there, carrying corn to Fort la Pluie. Its guide states that they were obliged to part with six sacks to a brigade in advance of us, whose people were all starving. A woman from this canoe shew'd great skill in shooting & seem'd to be the caterer of the party with game. She pursued some ducks very eagerly in my presence thro' the briars, woods and waters, carrying an old musket on her shoulder, and made a good shot. Portage la Savanne leads to a little lake called Lac la Savanne about two miles over. In Lac la Savanne we come to a little river which my guide says is not the Savanne River, but that the Savanne River comes from some lake to the South, and that this little stream empties into the Savanne River. From Lake Savanne, cross a short portage of half a mile, called Milieu Portage. It is also nearly level over wet ground and made passable by a range of hewn logs. Portage Milieu leads to a little lake called Lac la Priarie, y^ of a mile over to the Portage la Priarie. 442 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY This little lake, my guide says, has no discharge, that he has been en- tirely around it, and could find none. Portage la Priarie is the Height of Land of the new road. It is two and J^ miles long crossing a ridge that runs E. & W. The first ^ of the portage is over a level of sand and clay. The other part winds thro' the vallies of surrounding heights. The whole route is good, which means a path of easy carriage. On the N. side of Portage la Priarie lies the famed little Lac de PEau Froid. Its source is in sight from the encamping ground at this end of the portage. It is a copious spring issuing from a ravine in the surrounding heights. The spring is but 8 or 10 feet above the lake. It jets from among granitic rocks and is there so cold that the hands cannot be kept immersed the least time without pain. It must be in Tempe. about freezing point. The water of the spring is too cold to drink. The little Lake de l'Eau Froid is about 200 ft. from this spring (its source) and is also very cold altho shallow, being but about 2 ft. deep. These waters empty into Dog River and grow warmer as you approach the river. The Height of Land at its greatest elevation I should consider about 300 ft. above this little lake, and the little Lac de l'Eau Froid seems to be about 50 ft. below the Lac Priarie on the other side of the portage, as well as I could judge by noticing the ascents & descents of the Portage la Priarie. The rock formation at the Height is granite, with base of red feldspar. It is associated with gneiss. From Mille Lac to the Height of Land the country may be considered an alluvial plain. Arrive too late to make the portage with all the baggage. Send over one load, carrying the camp equipage and our private baggage. Mr. Whistler, myself and servant David encamp on the S. side, and my men sleep with the canoe and residue of the baggage at the other end of the portage. Sunday, August 17. Before we had breakfasted, I had the satisfac- tion to see my canoe winding down the hill of the Height of Land Portage on the shoulders of my Canadians, and by 9 o'clock all the luggage is over, the canoe gum'd and we embark on the little Lac de l'Eau Froid. It is of uniform depth of about three feet, very clear, and no living thing could I discover in it. Indeed, the water seemed too cold to support life of ordinary kind. It is but about 100 yds. to its dis- charge where it empties into another little lake by a discharge too small to float the canoe. Are obliged to make a portage of about twice the length of the canoe. Thence over a similar little lake, and thence thro a narrow winding creek called Brush Creek, which in its circuit is about five miles long to the River du Chien, or Dog River. Mr. Whistler & myself, with one man as guide, make a portage to avoid this long circuit of Brush Creek, and walk about 1 W miles to do so. The country BOOK TWELVE 443 is for considerable extent a flat sandy plain with some grass and trees. We were lost for a little time on this plain, & were obliged to mount on each other's shoulders to look for the course of the river. Found the river & neither seeing the canoe, nor it being within hail, had some apprehensions of its having passed. It soon appeared however winding down the creek thro' the rushes & shortly after, we were descending the Dog River. The source of Dog River is not, as has been said, at the Height of Land by the Cold Water Lake. On the contrary, the Cold Water Lake communication is but a small tributary to the Dog River. Where we intersect the Dog River, it is a fine, bold stream more than ioo feet wide and comes from the N.W. and must have its source at a long distance off. My guide could give me no information from whence it came. It is by no means probable that it could lead to any portage over the Height of Land so easy as Portage la Priarie, but it is an interesting inquiry whether it does not lead to a more direct water communication on the other side of the Height. The Dog River runs thro' a sandy plain the whole of this day's march. Granitic heights oc- casionally appear at a distance to afford some relief to a dreary scene. Its banks are perpendicular, from two to six ft. high, supporting a thick growth of sapin & willow trees. It is a muddy stream, with floating & falling trees as is usual in all streams that run thro' alluvial plains. The musquitoes were almost insupportable throughout the day. The cur- rent is about i yi or 2 m. per hour. We are obliged to continue our de- scent til after sun-set, not finding a place to encamp. It is usual to make one portage and two demi-charges as called, which means to carry the heavy articles, and run the light ones in the canoe, to pass the rapids of this day's route on Dog River. The second rapid however, which is the usual carrying place, my crew pass by carrying the luggage, and they sault the rapid, the guide & foreman (on the bouts, as the phrase is) only in the canoe. The fall is five feet in about 250 ft. The two other rapids we descend, taking out a few pieces only. At these several rapids could only perceive roll'd granitic rocks, and no rock in situ throughout the day. Showers, water calm & sultry. Monday, August 18. Breakfast and at 7 o'clock embark again to descend the Dog River, and after paddling about 15 m. from the en- campment enter Lac du Chien; so that the river to this place is about 50 m. long. The entrance of Lac du Chien is striking and beautiful. Passing from the limited view, and sandy level thro' which the river runs, you enter again on a large sheet of water with islands and distant highlands in sight. The course from the mouth of the river over the Lac du Chien to Portage du Chien is S.E. & S.W.; distance about 12 m. The canoe route is over the most open part of the lake, and we are much 444 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY impeded by high wind. The islands are of granite and gneiss, rising about 40 ft. above the lake, but at a distance in the E. they appear to be of mountain size. Portage du Chien is of 5 posts. It carries us by a succession of dreadful rapids & cataracts, said to be seven in number. They are on the W. of the track & inaccessible in the time I had to spare. The portage track from Lac du Chien first rises about 50 ft. and is then nearly level & sandy until within half a mile of its end. At this place it conducts to the brow of a height which presents the most grand, extensive and sublime view, that it has ever fallen to my lot to observe. Below you the Dog River is seen winding thro' the vallies 'til it is lost. In the N. & S. distant mountains terminate the prospect, and in the E. the expanse of Lake Superior is before you. Looking from this height over a great extent of highland ranges & vallies, Point Tonnere or the Pate of Lake Superior still maintains the highest rank. It is said that the former is the height in sight, and that Isle Royal is plainly visible when the atmosphere is clear. Could not see the island, but the lake & Ton- nere Point or Pate were distinct & altogether formed the most gratify- ing view I had ever seen. The fall of the river over Portage du Chien must be at least 200 ft. They told me it consisted of seven great saults, and the rest was rapids. From the brow we descend at least 250 ft. to the river to embark, which is the only data I have for estimating the fall of water. The portage at this end has a little plot of grass in the valley where we found encamped a brigade of six canoes from the Athabasca carrying out packs, & as many discharged servants or free- men, women & children and clerks as they could stow. They were all in a miserable plight, and being also discontented with their employers, the group appeared as unhappy as forlorn. In the party was a clerk who had come from the Columbia River. He informed me that the portage over the Rocky Mountains from the Columbia to Mackenzie's River could be made in 7 days, each man carrying 70 wt. They use boats to ascend the Columbia and build their canoes to travel this way. He stated that at Fort George which is their post at the mouth of the Columbia they made during the last year a return of between 18 & 19,000 beaver skins, and that he thinks that country will return an- nually for the next ten years 1500 skins. They hunt as well to the S. as N. of the river and about 70 men are employed from that post. The musk-rats at that post are not considered worthy of the trade, being few. The Columbia River is well stocked with salmon and sturgeon, which with deer and wild fowl are their subsistence princi- pally. The clerk told me he had known a sturgeon to weigh 400 wt. and that he had measured one thirteen feet long; and that they con- sider the largest the best. As these gentlemen however are neither epicures in fish or flesh I conclude his opinion of its goodness was BOOK TWELVE 445 formed rather from the number of hungry men it would supply than from any peculiar delicacy or excellence on account of its size. He states that the harbor at the mouth of the Columbia is a good one. That on the bar at half tide is 4 14 fathom water which when passed, a very large ship may ascend the Columbia 40 miles. The land he describes as rich, more particularly to the South and back from the coast. Another clerk, or trader of this party, who winters at Slave Lake, in describing to me the mountain ranges said that the mountains N. of Lake Su- perior extended in similar ranges to his knowledge to near the Rocky Mountains: that he considers them as a chain of the same: that Mc- Kenzie's River 1 he considers to have broken its passage thro' the moun- tains. They also speak of extensive levels & swamps, and rivers without long rapids or high cataracts, so that I could not form any satisfactory idea of the North Country from their descriptions. The prices paid in the Athabasca Country for furs, I was told by them were regulated by the company. If an Indian wanted a gun, he knew he must bring 17 beaver skins; if a blanket or fathom of strowds (cloth), 8 to 10 skins. As to wages to engagees in the North they are almost always paid in articles at the posts, and frequently are kept in debt to the Co. and of course kept in the country. If a servant wishes a frolic and to buy rum, he is indulged. For a quart of rum he is charged 120 livres, for a gallon 480, or about 160 dlls, and the clerk said it was not unusual for the men to drink up a year's wages in a frolic & some- times to enslave themselves for a term by debt contracted at the same time. The company excuse themselves by saying that they do not bring rum into the country to sell, and that if they will have it, they know the terms. This much is all I could glean from this large party. It was near sun-set when my men had made the portage, but I observed that they were anxious to get ahead of the brigade and bus- tling to prepare to embark. Without my being able to account for their sudden industry, I allowed them to proceed. My canoe I noticed, was brought down the mountain on the naked shoulders of my men, each being stripped to his waist. It was launched by them in silent procession in front of their baggage heap in the gaze of some 70 North men, and laden in good style, in short time, and when announced as ready, I took leave of my fellow travellers in a glass of rum & water, and hand- ing over the casse rouge to my servant as the last piece for my canoe, I embarked in full chorus once more on the Dog River, more com- monly called the Kamanistiguia (Kamanistegua) . It was soon disclosed 1 Alexander McKenzie explored McKenzie River from Great Slave Lake to its mouth at the Arctic Ocean in 1 789. Hence it must have been known that the river did not force a passage through the Rocky Mountains. 446 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY that my crew were actuated by pride in the show of industry and skill displayed on the Portage du Chien, in presence of this large party. The river now winds in the valley and for an instant I catch a glimpse of the last pitch of the river were it tumbles from the portage to its more even course. This last cataract can be seen from the canoe, but not from the portage where we embarked; and as few travellers look back in these dreary regions for what they so gladly leave behind them, it may account in part for the strange errors I have heard as regards the descent of this river over the Portage du Chien, many of them not even noticing that they have descended from a considerable height. Soon arrive at Petit Portage du Chien. It was nearly dark, and a thun- der storm rising seemed to cool the ardor of my crew & I was quite willing to order my tent pitched in all haste to secure a dry night under cover. There is scarcely room for the tent, the portage being over rugged rocks; but they contrive to make me perfectly comfortable for the night, desiring me to make an early embarkation for fear of being overtaken by the brigade in the rear. A violent storm with lightning soon comes on but my Canadians, who have so suddenly become skilful & industrious, find no difficulty in boiling my kettle & their own pot notwithstanding the rain, wind and darkness: and after a plentiful bowl or two of tea my man David and myself close the tent & are soon unconscious of the pelting storm. I afterwards learned that the brigade we had just left were all starv- ing & chewing the tripe du roche and canoe gum, altho not a word was said to me by any of them on the subject. The true cause of anxiety on the part of my crew to go ahead of them was no doubt the fear, that I would give away my provisions & thus perhaps put them on an al- lowance to Fort William Tuesday, August 19. Am aroused rather early in the morning by my Canadians who still are anxious to leave the brigade in the rear, and at 6 o'clock the canoe is laden and I embark. The crew had carried all the luggage over the portage before I was awoke, so that my own tent & furniture was the last load. The descent at the falls of the Petit Portage du Chien is about 7 ft. The rocks are here of granite, asso- ciated with gneiss and intersected by frequent veins of white quartz, often giving them a net-like appearance. The same formation was observed at the Great Portage du Chien. Leaving Petit Portage du Chien, we descend the Dog River very rapidly and pleasantly, and passing several rapids in a short time ar- rive at a portage where the baggage is carried and the canoe with the bouts or pilots runs the rapid. The descent of the river from the last to this portage I consider 20 ft. and this rapid which is called a demi- charge portage, has a descent of 3 feet. Thence proceed rapidly to BOOK TWELVE 447 Knife Portage, descending about 10 ft., and here are falls of about 15 ft. Thence to a portage called the Shortened Portage, because when the river is full it may be descended halfway in the rapid. Fall about 6 ft. Thence to Portage de lTle, or Island Portage, the terrors of which had been set forth to me in the strongest terms. This is a beautiful spot and save a cross which marked the grave of some incautious voyageur I saw nothing to recall the dangers that I had heard of. The landing-place is very near the fall and in a little basin, to make which the canoe must cross the current near the fall, but any guide who knows the place may always approach with as much safety here as at many other portages, and the hazard I ran was certainly much less than at several other cataracts, the brows of which I found myself on landing to be within a canoe's length of me. Nevertheless, several canoe men have been drowned at this Island Portage and its dangers for the sake of the traveller had better be enhanced than diminished. The skill of the voyageur and great ease with which a dexterous crew can manage the canoe render us senseless to the true dangers that surround us, and when I reflect how often, in the midst of a dreadful rapid, when my men were literally suspending the canoe by bracing back with their poles and paddles to prevent its dashing on the rocks that surrounded us, and that the breaking of a pole or slipping of a paddle might have left us to the ravings of the torrent, I am but little disposed to decry the dangers of a canoe voyage to the interior. From this Island Portage we run a long rapid of about eight feet descent and arrive at Portage ficarte. This is a crooked route over crags of rock, with some mud: is so called because a traveller is said to have lost his way on the por- tage, a circumstance which if it could happen on a portage would be on a rocky one where no footstep marks the way. Here are falls of about 30 feet. From Portage ficarte proceed to Portage a la Montagne. The two are in sight from either and no rapid intervenes. The Mountain Portage is of two posts. The first is level. The second is the descent of the height which is about 140 feet. On landing at this portage I order my camp equipage first carried over and tent pitched intending to view these celebrated falls & leave the crew to make the portage before night. The canoe was next brought & with the two bouts (pilots) Mr. Whistler and myself embarked to force our way up the rapids of the chasm be- neath the falls to enjoy a perfect view. We ascend to a little island, which lies in the middle of the river about 100 yards from the fall, and land. The chasm is thro' a cliff of slate, with flint & jasper. Its sides are perpendicular, the rapid washing their base. The river is about 120 yards wide and shallow. The falls are not distinctly seen until we land on this little island. About halfway between this little island and the fall, the cliffs of the chasm approximate so as to render the view from 448 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY any one point incomplete, the effect being the same as looking thro' a telescope. At the falls the banks again diverge, and this fortunate position gives us a view more picturesque and beautiful than in my mind even the great Niagara can afford. The fall is 125 feet high, in one unbroken sheet. Its width is not seen from this little island, only one bank being visible. In the center and on the brow of the fall, a leafless trunk of a tree is seen, denoting also a little island there, but from our position we could see nothing of this island but the top of a solitary tree which resembled more a staff than a tree. Mr. Whistler takes a sketch of this most beautiful of all cataracts, the impression of which will al- ways be foremost in my mind when contemplating the beautiful and the grand of nature's convulsions. This fall may also be seen from the portage by passing off toward the river thro' the woods. I had not lei- sure however to view it from both positions, and was gratified to be enabled without loss of time to look at it from a point where few have ever been & at the same time a point by far the most favorable. From Portage du Chien to Portage la Montagne the rock formations are alike being an intimate association of granite (the granite having hornblende but no mica), with gneiss rocks intersected as commonly by seams of quartz. At the Portage la Montagne we arrive at a horizontal slate formation, containing striped jasper, occasionally hornstone, and iron pyrites. The chasm of the falls is of this slate, and in it and near the lowest strata was a singular stratum of lenticular or oolitic structure (argillaceous iron lenticular), which without tests I could not determine. Took several pieces, &c. This stratum was also horizontal and about two feet thick. At night rain, with thunder and lightning. Wednesday, August 20. Embark from Portage la Montagne at 9 a.m., the rain having prevented an earlier start. The Dog River now becomes a continued rapid. Its width has increased, and its shallow waters flow over a flat surface of rock and rolled stones rendering it a difficult & hazardous passage for the canoe. For about 18 miles from the Mountain Portage the rapid is nearly continued. Only one carrying place however is necessary, which is called the Rapid Paresseux. Our canoe passes down, whilst myself, Mr. Whistler and some of the crew make rather a long walk by the side of the river, thro' the briars, bushes & rocks, making some expedition to keep up with the canoe. Three or four miles below the Rapid Paresseux is the portage road cut by Lord Selkirk to the Whitefish Lake. I could not learn the distance but it must have been an expensive operation. This portage is now growing up & only used in Winter. Near by is Point Meuron. Here Lord Selkirk commenced an expensive and permanent establishment. A large framed house, block house and out houses all of hewn timber, a tower- BOOK TWELVE 449 ing flag staff & a large cross all bear evidence of the spirit and energy which he never failed to display in his opposition to the North West Co. This establishment, altho not so extensive, would have surpassed that of Fort William in comfort strength and permanency. On the opposite side of the river, high in the mountain, was a little log hut which I con- sidered either as a lookout of his own, or that of his enemy, from which to watch his movements at Point Meuron. The flag staff had evidently been lately cut down, which betrayed the deep rooted enmity which is stifled between the servants of the two companies, or rather shows that altho the opposition has ceased that the name and works of Lord Selkirk are still hateful to some of the voyageurs. Among the clerks & traders I never heard a disrespectful or ill-natured expression applied to any of the principals in their late unfortunate quarrels. Soon after leaving Point Meuron, the river having again contracted and being deep and safe for the canoe, we came in sight of a height emphatically called the Mountain. It was a mural cliff similar to the Pate or Point Tonnere of Lake Superior, and our very devious course and near ap- proach to Fort William left me in doubt as to its identity. Considering however that we were North of Fort William, I conclude it is some other height. I should suppose it to be about 1200 feet high. It ranges N.E. & S.W. to appearance, and is of columnar green stone. At 6 p.m. arrive at Fort William once more delighted to reach the abode of white men and partake of the hospitalities of Mr. MacKenzie, who succeeds Mr. Stewart in charge of the Fort. From the Mountain Falls to Fort William is about 27 miles. Thursday, August 21. Remain at Fort William to wait arrival of Mr. Ferguson, and prepare for voyage over Lake Superior. Friday, August 22. Mr. Ferguson arrives from the Grand Portage early in the morning. Saturday, August 23. Mr. Thompson, Dr. Bigsby and party also arrive by way of the Grand Portage. Sunday, August 24. Messrs. Ferguson and Whistler proceed with one canoe and outfit to finish some surveys between this & the Old Grand Portage. 1 In the morning there is a grand embarkation from Fort William for Montreal. Four Montreal Canoes, as called, which are of immense size, laden with packs, and four North Canoes, filled with freemen from the interior (just discharged) with their women and children, depart. Monday, August 25. Mr. Thompson and party leave Fort William for the Sault Ste Marie. Two North Canoes, with discharged clerks from the interior leave the fort shortly after for Montreal. The large 1 Map of region between Fort William and the Old Grand Portage, or perhaps show- ing the whole Kamanistegua route. 450 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY establishment of Fort William is now deserted by all except the clerks in command, a few artificers and a few half-breeds (women) , who have become dependents on the establishment, their husbands having left them & their children, when ordered to a different post, as heir-looms to the company. They receive from the company a scanty allowance of provisions, and, if the wives or children of clerks, a regular tax is im- posed by the company and deducted from their wages for their main- tenance. Tuesday, August 26. Messrs. Ferguson and Whistler arrive at the fort, having finished all their business at this end of the lake. Wednesday, August 27. Make preparations for leaving Fort Wil- liam. Messrs. Ferguson & Whistler having spent a Winter at this post, and our party having drawn some supplies from it, it having been our depot for eighteen months and many articles of outfit being collected here, which together with the necessity of some new arrangement as to canoes to cross Lake Superior, give me sufficient employ to remove the otherwise irksome situation. Store our two North Canoes in the com- pany's canoe house. Launch the barge which Mr. Ferguson came up the lake in, and my Mackinac Canoe in which I came. Mr. Ferguson with the four Americans, and a Canadian sailor from my crew, are to pro- ceed in the barge, and Mr. Whistler and myself with the rest of the men in my Mackinac canoe, nine paddles. Settle accounts with the Co. by giving them a draft on Genl. Porter, favor of Thos. Thaine of Montreal. Thursday, August 28. Embark from Fort William at 6 a.m., Mr. Ferguson in the barge well fitted for sailing, and Mr. Whistler & self in the canoe with nine good men well fitted and in fine spirits for a voyage that carries us toward our friends & terminates a rude and comfortless expedition. Leaving the Dog River, make a rapid traverse over the bay, passing between the traverse islands near Rabbit Island and Point Tonnere and two miles beyond Point Tonnere stop to breakfast. Land on an immense table of green stone associated as usual with silicious conglomerates. A fire is soon kindled with the driftwood. I drink my usual bowls of tea which with some hard bread always seemed a lux- urious feast &, my crew in the meantime having glutted themselves with corn and grease, which ceremony consumed half an hour, we again embark a little before 1 2 o'clock. Pass the Baie Noire. The group of little islands which lie here are mostly of sandstone in horizontal layers. One of them has a singular & artificial appearance, from the circumstance of its having an upper stratum of grey sandstone about two feet thick & beneath a coarse conglomerate which when wet is of brick red color. The sides of the island were perpendicular and the whole had the appearance of a tablet on a red base. I approached & took specimens. My attention was directed to this place when ascend- BOOK TWELVE 45i ing the lake, but I could not then stop. Others of this group are of similar red & grey sandstones with conglomerates cemented in sand resting on bases of green stone slate and green stone. My crew having made but one meal this day & the distance run being great, encamp a little before sun-set on an island. Find here a handsome amygdaloid with prehnite & calc spar. The day being calm, we are in advance of the barge. Friday, August 29. Embark at 6 a.m. Wind high from S.E. Pass thro' a group of islands. See the barge outside of the islands rolling in a heavy sea, the wind having died away. Make a traverse to the Pays Plat group of islands over a high, rolling sea which frightens most of the Frenchmen and makes some of them sick. The canoe being in good trim, proceed very safely. When the waves do not break, a well-man- aged canoe does very well. The little island, known as Gravelly Point Island, is the commencement of the Pays Plat from the West. The islands are rather higher in this group than elsewhere, and so is all the country in sight, so that the name of Pays Plat is a misnomer. Gravelly Point & Island consists of that beautiful porphyry with a base of red feldspar & transparent dots of quartz. It is intersected by veins of calc spar. It adjoins columnar green stone which latter rock prevails in this end of the lake. Breakfast at twelve o'clock on Gravelly Point. The islands in this group are high and sometimes present several faces from 200 to 400 ft. high. One of the islands is called Barn Island, from its regular shape & angular appearance. Those called the Mamelles are of very uniform conical shape, & are well named. The amygdaloids of the Pays Plat are various and interesting. Take specimens of each variety. Run along the shore of an island at sun-set in search of a place to encamp. A growth of thick brush covered its shore to the water's edge not leaving room for a tent. Find however an ancient wigwam, after some search along the shore, which being removed affords space for my tent. A storm of wind and rain ensues and we feel happy to have found so snug a hole to encamp in, where the prospect was so dreary. Saturday, August 30. The storm of rain, wind, thunder and light- ning has been incessant during the last night, so that our hiding place in the bushes proved not only a fortunate discovery, but a well-shel- tered position. Embark at 9 a.m., the rain having ceased, but heavy clouds still lowering about. Leave the Pays Plat Islands and arrive about sun-set at the well known rocks, the Petit des fiscrit. This place is composed of granitic cliffs presenting perpendicular faces to the lake. Upon these walls are figured images of deer, moose, canoes, Indians with bows, canoes, all pretty well delineated, some by Indians and some by voyageurs. The base of the rock is a red feldspar, so that when the 452 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY rust & lichens which now cover them are rubbed off by a stone or iron, a bright red surface is produced which forms the images. This is a com- mon stopping place for canoes bound either up or down the lake, when high winds prevent their progress, & this is no doubt the cause of its having become the picture gallery of Lake Superior. I saw noth- ing remarkable in the place, except that many figures are high on the cliffs & in situations utterly inaccessible at present, and I can only account for them by supposing trees to have existed heretofore to en- able the artists to climb to the places which we now see decorated by their skill and toil. The islands in the W. part of the Pays Plat are mostly of red granite. At the E. end, sandstone, sandstone conglomerates and green stone prevailed. Sunday, August 31. Embark at 6 a.m. A high wind from the N.E. causes a high sea and impedes our progress very much throughout the day. Make several traverses, and a long one next before the traverse to the Peak, to the evident terror of some of the crew. Pass the Peak Island and encamp at sunset near the point from whence the Peak traverse is to be made. Wind continues high during the night, N.E. Temp. cold. Monday, Sepr. 1 . Embark and make the traverse to the Peak over a bay which from point to point is 12 or 14 miles. The wind soon rises strong from the N.E. and obliges us to keep well in the bay. It requires all the strength of the crew to force the canoe against the wind and sea. Arrive however at the little rocky island, just West of the Peak at 1 1 a.m., where we breakfast. The Peak is a trading post at the mouth of a river of same name, under the charge of Mr. McTavish. Having travelled in company with this gentleman on my voyage up the lake & been kindly invited to visit him, I conclude to stop for a few minutes to see his post. The Peak River empties into a sandy, shallow bay & near its mouth is the post. The dwelling is sufficiently comfortable & picketed, as usual. In his garden was a fine crop of potatoes which with fish were offered us for breakfast and as a present for our voyage. Having my necessary outfit of provisions, I declined taking any, however agreeable they would have been, so difficult and un-voyageur-like it is to have the most trifling superfluity in a canoe. There is a large island off this bay, called the Peak Island. Mr. McTavish since I had seen him had made a voyage to Moose Factory at Hudson's Bay, which is the Govern- ment House of the Southern Department. He went by the water com- munication which leads from Michipicoten Bay, and states that it is much such a country as I had passed over inland until you approach the bay, when it is flat, a great many portages, and the Height of BOOK TWELVE 453 Land nearer to Lake Superior than to Hudson's Bay. York Factory is the residence of the Governor of the Northern Department; & from these two posts all the trade of the Hudson's Bay Company is directed, outfits made and returns received. Take leave of Mr. McTavish and after proceeding three miles a heavy sea ahead rolls in from the lake which obliges us to look for shelter. The whole coast in sight presented only ragged cliffs of granite to approach which was certain wreck. To proceed becomes impossible & we are obliged to turn back & scud with the sea, when we discover that we had passed the mouth of a river, covered from our view by a rocky peninsula, which offers the shelter we need. Run for the river. The strong current of the river meeting the water of the lake produced a heavy short sea & breakers at its mouth, which threatened some dan- ger, but it was the least that surrounded us & no question was asked nor word spoken. My canoe men gave new strength to their paddles and we dashed thro' the breakers, taking in but little water. The short- ness of the pass was our only security from being swamped, as every successive wave more nearly broke our stern. After a little search find a cleared place in the bushes for an encampment, and a well-beaten path to it from the river denoted that it had but lately been deserted by some weather bound travellers or a party of Indians. Arrive at this place at 2 p.m. The gale continues to increase and the shore of the lake is foaming with the breakers of a tremendous sea. At night a heavy gale. Our encampment is entirely sheltered from the wind by the thick bushes, so that with the aid of a fire we are per- fectly comfortable & secure. Night cold. Tuesday, Sepr. 2. Storm of wind and rain, wind S.E. The lake is more furiously tossed than I have before seen it. It is too cold either to read or write in my tent, so that I am obliged to sit much of the day around the fire with my Canadians, whose good humor seemed to pass the time. Wednesday, Sepr. 3. The storm rages as violently as yesterday. The lake is more troubled & our prospects seem dreary. At 10 a.m. it sud- denly clears off with a bright sky, and wind changes to the S.W., blow- ing as furiously as before & bringing with it a cross sea which makes the lake still more terrible. To proceed is utterly impossible. The noise of a cataract on the river above us induces me to go in search of it. Launch the canoe and ascend the river about three miles to a grand rapid. The river is in width about 150 feet, and flows between high cliffs of granite. In one instance the bank of the river was of clay & sand. At the rapids it suddenly contracts to about 30 ft. Land at the foot of the rapids & attempt to ascend by clambering along the rocks, but it proves impossible. From this place, looking upward, a grand rapid or 454 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY cataract is seen about a third of a mile in length, breaking with great force over a bed of angular & rounded rocks. At that distance the river turns & the view is obstructed, so that the extent of the fall or rapid is unknown. The descent of such part of the rapid as in sight is about 60 feet, and from the high cliffs which rise beyond it is probably in all much greater. Collect the shells of this river on my return, and arrive at my camp to dine and find the tranquil scene of the river contrasted with the still raging sea of the lake to be extreme. Thursday, Sepr. 4. Gale of wind continues, W.N.W. Clear sky. Lake in a perfect foam. The delay extremely irksome & indeed painful. Friday, Sepr. 5. The wind still blowing with great violence from the S.E. which again brings rain. It changes to the S.W. and clears off, but does not abate in fury. Mr. Whistler and myself both grow extremely impatient, I may say restlessly so, & even the Canadians begin to think that the degrader has been long enough. They say every now & then a degrader of three days is no bad thing, but this is rather too long. The storm has been cold throughout. Saturday, Sepr. 6. Am awoke before daybreak by the noise of the men striking their tents and preparing for the voyage. These sounds were enlivening and we instantly rolled up our blankets to expedite the embarkation. Found the lake to be nearly smooth & the only remaining signs of the gale were the breaking of the decreasing waves upon the rocky shore. Before sunrise the canoe is laden & we proceed once more. Even the Canadians seem delighted to handle their paddles after so long a rest. A fair & fresh wind rises with the sun from the N.W. We spread our sail and were wafted along with great rapidity, plying our nine paddles at the same time. A rolling sea soon becomes very annoying to the timid canoe-men, but we pursue the voyage in good style & safety. At 1 o'clock pass the Otter's Head. Had a better view of this singular rock than when I proceeded up the lake. It stands back from the lake about half a mile and stands like an artificial column & looks as if a right-angled prism. It is probably the remains of a vertical formation of green stone slate, its debris having left this column as the last of its remains. The neighboring country is of granite and green stone as- sociated and adjoining, as is usual along the lake. There is no rock formation in the neighborhood as high as the Otter's Head. At 2 p.m. came up with & passed the barge with Mr. Ferguson and party. He had encamped during the gale in the rear of us & got under way in the night before we did, so anxious was the whole of the party to make the best of the time in passing this tempestuous lake. He had as much wind & sea, altho' fair, as he could carry to during the night. At 3 p.m. the barge and canoe stop & we dine in company on a rock in the lee of greater rocks. This place, which is N.W. from the extreme BOOK TWELVE 455 W. point of Michipicoten Island consists of sienite granite of yellowish feldspar & green hornblende, associated largely with a compound epidotic rock. Took specimens. 25 miles E. of Peak, where I breakfasted, the sienitic granite also prevailed containing cubic iron pyrites. At 3 p.m. the wind comes in directly ahead & blasts the prospect of the great day's voyage that we had in promise. Proceed however til sun-set, having sailed and paddled between 50 & 60 miles this day. Mr. Ferguson is obliged to stop with his barge & encamp before we do, because of the necessity of having a safe place for the barge, whilst with the canoe, which we can safely land on any rock where we can get a foothold, we are enabled to proceed 'til sun-set. Night cold. Sunday, Sepr. 7. Embark before sunrise. A hard frost to be seen this morning. A fresh wind rises with the sun and at 10 a.m. the lake became so rough that it was dangerous to proceed. Run into a little bay, and secure canoe & lading on a flat rock which presented a handsome wharf. Altho' the stranger on this shore of the lake would infer from its appearance that safe landing places for canoes were very few, the con- trary is the fact, as my greater experience proves, because around the points of threatening rocks or in the fissures of them or little nooks which their rude & broken, but bold formation usually presents, re- treats may almost invariably be found. With an old guide therefore there is no great danger in approaching these terrific cliffs with the canoe, although the sea be high. Clamber over the height in the rear of my landing-place, and find a little lake to impede my progress. Follow its valley to the shore of Lake Superior and thence to my canoe. The sienite granite prevails here. A beautiful basaltic form dyke intersects it and shows its junction & section on the lake shore in a beautifully con- trasted manner. The line of separation is as distinct as if the work of a mason. The rocks are neither connected by any cement nor do they pass into each other, but adjoin. At 12 m. the wind and sea abate sufficiently to proceed on the voyage. Soon enter the Michipicoten Bay. The lake becomes perfectly tranquil with a slight breeze in our favor & the inducement is very strong to attempt a great traverse over the mouth of this bay. The temptation, too, is much increased by the long line of coast which is seen on the opposite side, stretching due South toward the Sault, which when once gained offers a screen from the prevailing winds which have so seriously impeded our progress. Abandon the idea however as fraught with a hazard which I ought not to encounter. Proceed down the bay. passing the des ficore. This is a cliff of granite & green stones presenting a mural front on the lake from two to four hundred feet high, and may be six miles along the lake. The Canadians call it nine. For this dis- tance there is no possible landing place in a sea. It is the most dangerous 456 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY pass on the North shore & requires a calm. The green stone of the des £core occasionally becomes slaty and ferruginous. The granite is sienitic. At a little island where I touch beyond the des Score, find it consists of a fine mica slate having narrow strata of brown quartz. The whole are horizontal, and sometimes undulating or tortuous, both the quartz & mica. Encamp near the point from which it is usual to make the traverse. The rock is here a vertical slate, red granite still in sight to the E. & N. In the course of the day have passed three streams empty- ing into the lake, all with cataracts in sight. Monday, Sepr. 8. Embark at sunrise. Some sea running makes it necessary to descend further in the bay. Pass Dog River and White River. The former is the largest. Both are seen tumbling over the heights in falls, and are not so far as I could learn routes of communication to any quarter. Pass a wigwam, from which a Frenchman comes off, bringing a supply of fine whitefish, for which we give him dried corn. He proved to be a discharged company's servant, who had established himself here, which is not many miles from the Post of Michipicoten. A canoe also comes up with a clerk bound to Fort William from the Sault. Can get no manner of information from this man about occur- rences in the civilized world for the past three months, a circumstance which had ceased to astonish me, as I have found all these gentlemen, with but one exception (Mr. Stuart of Fort William), utterly indifferent to all the concerns of this world, save packs of furs. Make a traverse over Michipicoten in two hours, so that the distance is about 9 miles where we crossed. Arrived at a high bluff behind which is a little inlet, which we enter and breakfast most sumptuously on our whitefish. I climb the high cliff between us and the lake from which I have a per- fect view of the whole bay. Am surprised not to see the barge with Mr. Ferguson. Proceed out of the bay. At its S.E. cape is a high cliff which differs in its constituents from most of the coast. A granular gray wacke looking like a coarse sandstone rests at its base, and the cliff above is of chlorite slate having large imbedded masses of a singular, fibrous horn- blende with calc spar &c. Take specimens of all. Proceeding a little beyond the point of Michipicoten Bay come to an interesting spot called the Gorgontoit. Some rocks fancifully worn by the waves of the lake rise to some height a short distance in the lake, one of which has been, according to Indian tradition, the resting place of the Great Spirit. It is consequently one out of the many where they signify their devo- tion by leaving small presents of tobacco &c. much to the delight of the first Canadian who follows on to reap the benefit. The rock formation at this place is more interesting for its mineral contents than any other spot. In a little cave where I land, I observed the brown trap amyg- daloid containing red stilbite, zoolite radiate, agates and carnelians in BOOK TWELVE 457 abundance. And in one place for some extent the green stone was filled with a substance which looks like feldspar, assuming the form of stairs, making a porphyry like the green Egyptian porphyry. Proceed but a few miles over a rather heavy sea and encamp. Tuesday, Sepr. 9. A heavy gale from the S.E. again obliges us to remain encamped. My only resource is to explore the neighborhood with my stone hammer. The high cliffs in the neighborhood are of granite which contain more hornblende as I approach the base, and there they pass into a fine dark colored gneiss which would be best explained by saying it resembled slate. Adjacent is a singular reddish brown amygdaloid, very much weathered (finely stratified & slaty). It contains red stilbite in small dots very abundantly & occasionally some singular nodules of calc spar. All that I could I broke and in some of them I found dark purple and bright green fluate of lime, which in the white matrix made handsome specimens. There is also a green friable substance filling cavities of this amygdaloid which I could not deter- mine. This singular red brown slaty amygdaloid is, at this place, about half a mile in width on the lake and lies between the high dark green stone ridges. It wears into steps and looks in all respects like the slate formations excepting its imbedded minerals. Some of the crew who ascended the heights in the rear say that land is in sight across the lake which they consider to be Whitefish Point. Wednesday, Sepr. 10. A settled storm of heavy rain with high wind S.E. prevents embarkation. A little brook which empties thro some gravel becomes so swollen as to have cut a large channel into the lake near my tent. My place of encampment is a little flat, close under high cliffs which afford so perfect a shelter that I am obliged to leave my tent to know the raging of the storm. The lake is not in sight from our camp, altho within 1 00 feet, & this is one of those secure & snug re- treats so frequent on the N. shore of this lake, altho no trace of it can be seen as you pass in your canoe & which the experienced guides are sure to recollect. During my voyage up the lake I saw no places where a canoe could land, nor a tent be pitched, but the very places to which my old guide conducted me, and thus erroneously concluded that there are but few or no others. A canoe requires but its length of level rock or beach for a resting place & these cannot be wanting in the roughest formations on a weather beaten shore. Thursday, Sepr. 1 1 . Wind has changed to the W. and the sea having subsided by 8 a.m. we are enabled to embark. The wind and sea con- tinue to rise but being fair we run with our sail very rapidly about 20 miles when we arrive at a point from which a traverse is usually made over a deep bay. The sea runs too high to attempt this & turning the 458 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY point the canoe is anchored to the rugged cliffs to wait a smoother sea. Clamber about the cliffs with my stone hammer but find no embedded minerals. Gneiss and granite are associated here. The cliffs 3 & 400 ft. high, perpendicular. Embark again & descend the bay for the purpose of finding some place where I could land the basket to dine. The bottom of the bay has a low sandy beach on which a heavy surf was breaking which made it dangerous to approach with our heavy canoe. Passing around the bay, discover a hut which must be the wintering house of some trader from Michipicoten. At a distance we mistook it for a rock & none of my crew knew of this hut always having traversed at the mouth of the bay. Per- ceive a small river emptying in the bay, which offers a retreat and land- ing place. A heavy surf is breaking at its mouth but conclude to at- tempt an entrance. The canoe touches on the sand bar at its entrance in the breakers, but the crew are instantly overboard at each side & with the rising wave carry us safe in the river. Dine on the sand, and again embark. Pass Montreal River. It is the largest of three which I have passed this day. Could learn no name for this bay. It lies abreast of Montreal Island. Continue to skirt the bay, and about dusk pass its S.E. point. The lake is comparatively smooth and we proceed by moonlight along a rocky shore, searching for an encampment. By descending another bay come to a sand beach of sufficient size for the tent only. Night cold. Friday, Sepr. 12. Embark at sunrise. Wind N.E. & appearance of a storm. Hug the shore to avoid the influence of the wind following its circuitous course by which means we proceed a long distance. White- fish Point in sight on opposite side of the lake. Pass a place which my Canadians call the Nama & talk much about. Could not ascertain from them its proper name in sound or sense & could only learn that it was a good encamping place. Land a short time to breakfast on the rocks. Proceed again: the rain commences & falls in greater quantities than I have before experienced on the lake. Mr. Whistler & myself shelter ourselves under the tarpaulin, but the crew are well drenched. The lake being rather smooth and our provisions secure from rain, proceed on the voyage. Pass Mr. Ferguson in camp; his barge moored by the shore. Stop a few minutes to inquire his situation &c. He had passed us unperceived by making a great traverse outside of Montreal Island & travelling in the night. My crew, elated with the idea of get- ting ahead of the barge seem desirous to proceed, but after paddling a few miles I perceive by the blue faces and chattering teeth that they were exposed too long in this cold drenching rain. I land and find an encamping place by penetrating the woods a short distance, the storm increasing every moment. BOOK TWELVE 459 Granite with gneiss, gneiss and a green stone conglomerate have been the formations passed this day. The pudding stone was peculiar, from its being composed of all the granites, sienites, trap & amygdaloidal rocks & porphyries that belong to the lake coast. A silicious cement binds it together & seams of red calc spar occasionally intersect it. The gray wacke was in place where I saw Mr. Ferguson in camp. At night a most violent storm of wind & rain. Wind W., cold. Saturday, Sepr. 13. We are awoke before day by the furious dashing of the sea upon the rocky shore & violence of the wind. The crew are obliged to remove the baggage heap & canoe &c. further from the shore. Altho my tent is pitched a little distance back in a thick woods I find it necessary to lash the sail to the trees in front to form a screen & protect us from the gale. The lake is very shallow opposite this point with a bottom of flat shelving rocks, so that the breakers are seen a mile from the shore. All hopes of embarkation for the day being in vain, we study to make ourselves comfortable by securing the tent and building large fires. Wind W., cold. Sunday, Sepr. 14. Wind and sea having subsided, embark at sun- rise, weather very unpromising. From the point of this encampment it is usual to traverse to the Maple Islands. In making this traverse some time ago a canoe was stranded upon Maple Islands & a clerk and several of the crew drowned. The tale is always told with all its horrors by the voyageurs and the spot seems to them to have peculiar dangers, whereas the Thunder Bay and Peak & perhaps some other traverses, are far more dangerous. In this instance the islands were a lee shore and they were making the traverse in a high wind, the sail as usual lashed by a spar athwart the canoe and broaching to was of course cap- sized. The great hazard always attending the manner in which the Canadians rig their sails makes it marvellous to me that fatal accidents do not happen more frequently. It can only be accounted for by the fact that when the wind is fresh they will not sail. As the wind is off shore & rising, I make the traverse inside of the Maple Islands. Break- fast at the W. point of Bay Goule; and again traverse for the highlands of the Gros Gap. Discover a flotilla of Indian canoes far out on the lake. They were making a traverse from Gros Cap to Maple Islands to my utter astonishment. The day was cloudy & to my judgment indicated high winds & bad weather. Their unerring judgment as to weather proved their safety. The lake continued serene & became more so towards night. It must have been in the night when they reached the islands. Seeing my canoe, they fired a salute, which I returned with my pistols. Arrive at the Gros Cap which is proper entrance of the St. Mary's River at 2 p.m. Stop to take a lunch & get a few rock specimens. Arrive at the portage of the Sault St. Mary's at sun-set. Leave my 460 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY servant, baggage & crew to make the portage in the morning. Proceed to the garrison where Mr. Griswold most kindly gives me quarters, Mr. Whistler finding quarters with his numerous comrades here. Major Cutler 1 had just arrived as Comdg. Officer & was preparing his quar- ters &c. The country next W. of the Gros Cap is low and level for about 1 5 miles, and of red & gray sandstone. The islands where I stop'd in this space were entirely of sandstone. The islands in Bay Goule I do not doubt are the same as also the level as far back as the granitic heights which are in sight, trending to the N. from the Gros Cap. The Gros Cap is mostly a red sienite granite passing into green stone & at its western declivity is amygdaloidal containing epidote &c. Sandstone rests on its eastern slope. Find that we have arrived before the barge and that Mr. Thompson who left Fort William before us, had only arrived the day previous. Monday, Sepr. 15. Mr. Ferguson arrives at the Sault St. Marie. Tuesday, Sepr. 16. Pay and discharge Le Pine, LeBerg, Brisbois, Fountain, Jervais & Socier. Lay up my Mackinac Canoe in the fort under care of Majr. Cutler & order the barge fitted with proper camp equipage &c. for the voyage to Mackinac, leaving residue with the garrison. Wednesday, Sepr. 17. Leave St. Mary's at 2 p.m. Wind fair with some rain. Run to the sailors' encampment by sun-set & encamp. Thursday, Sepr. 18. Leave sailors' encampment at sunrise. Run to the Detour opposite Frying Pan Island. Stop to breakfast by the hut of an old Frenchman who lives here, hermit like. The wind being ahead for Mackinac cross over to Drummond's Island. Collect a stock of the fossils of the island, mostly chain coral and tubipores. Dine with Comdg. Offr. Major. Gaff who receives with great hospitality. Lodge in his quarters. Friday, Sepr. 19. Leave Drummond's Island by break of day with a strong fair wind from S.E. It increases to a gale, raising a very heavy sea which begins to break over our fine bouyant sail boat rendering it unsafe to proceed. We are obliged to run for the shore and beach the boat which we succeed in by the aid of our dexterous American lads who have been in Mr. Ferguson's employ the whole expedition. En- camp behind some large trees. The gale increases & we congratulate ourselves once more in having made a timely retreat from the lake. Saturday, Sepr. 20. Gale continues with great violence. Are obliged 1 Enos Cutler, born at Brookfield, Mass., November, 1781. He served in the War of 181 2 and in the Seminole and Creek wars. BOOK TWELVE 461 to move our tents further back behind the trees during the night & in the rain, the wind blowing them over. Sunday, Sepr. 2 1 . Get under way at sun-rise. After buffeting winds & waves, hail & rain, are obliged to come to at Goose Island at night. Attempted to make the traverse to Mackinac 9 miles but a head sea & wind drove us back. Monday, Sepr. 22. At noon the gale abates. We again attempt the traverse to Mackinac & are again driven back, having reached near halfway. Our pork & lard being consumed, we are reduced to rice and corn without grease. Boil our pot with candles in lieu of grease, which answers just as well. The salt too having failed makes the meal rather insipid. Find on Goose Island a Mr. Solomon with two little children, also degrade 6 days from Drummond's Island without provisions. Give him a supply of corn. Tuesday, Sepr. 23. The gale abates in the afternoon, when we again attempt the traverse and arrive at Mackinac 4 p.m. Mr. Solomon in his little canoe also reaches the island, having run a great risk. Mr. Stewart of American Fur Gompy. kindly gives me quarters in his es- tablishment. Leave the barge in care of Majr. Whistler 1 of the garrison. Friday, Octr. 3. Leave Mackinac in Schr. Tiger, Capt. Blake. Messrs. Ferguson & Whistler & 5 of our men in company. Sunday, Octr. 5. Arrive at St. Clair River at 10 a.m., in 47 hours from Mackinac, & at Detroit at sun-set. Friday, Octr. 10. Leave Detroit in Schooner Superior, Capt Gillett; run to the Put in Bay Islands in the night & come to. Saturday, Octr. 1 1 . Visit Strontian Island before daybreak. Re- turn to the schooner and proceed on voyage. Monday, Octr. 13. Arrive at Buffalo at 9 a.m., gale of wind from S.W. Round the pier & enter the creek very handsomely. Thursday, Octr. 16. Leave Buffalo at 2 a.m. and lodge at Geneva. Octr. 17. Leave Geneva & lodge in Utica. Octr. 18. Leave Utica 9 a.m. in canal boat. Octr. 19th. Arrive at Schenectady at 8 a.m. Leave Schenectady in canal boat at 9 a.m. and arrive in Albany at 8 a.m. Monday, Oct. 20. Remain in Albany. 2 1 Probably William Whistler, born in 1 780, older brother of George W. Whistler. William Whistler fought as a Lieutenant in the War of 181 2 and continued in the United States infantry rising to the rank of colonel. He died in 1863. 2 On that same Oct. 20, 1823, Commissioner Porter reported to John Quincy Adams, Secretary of State: "Mr Delafield, accompanied by Mr Ferguson, our principal surveyor, and party arrived at this place (Black Rock) on Tuesday last from the Lake of the Woods .... 462 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Tuesday, Oct. 21. In Troy. " 22. In Troy. " 23. Leave Albany in steam boat Chancellor Liv- ingston. Friday, Octr. 24. Arrive in New York at 6 a.m. Descent from the Height of Land by the old Grand Portage route, to the Lake of the Woods feet Pin Portage Rapid, feet 2 Lescallier Falls and Rapid 15 Wooden Horse Falls and Rapid 31 Great Pine Portage Falls & Rapid (not seen) 10 Rapid 3 Eight rapids next before entrance of Lake Sais qui c Gard 26 Falls at Lake Sais qui c Gard Portage 7 Mr Delafield, who, having been with the surveyors is better acquainted with their recent operations, and with the country, than myself, will write to you on his arrival in New York .... Mr Thompson, the principal British surveyor, .... has hertofore entertained a belief that a boundary best according with the description of the treaty .... could be traced through a bay at the Southwestern extremity of Lake Superior, called Fond du Lac, and thence up the St. Louis, in a direction towards the Lake of the Woods .... Others represent it (no doubt correctly) as passing along the chain of land and water communication or what is called the Grand Portage, which is several hundred miles to the north of Fond du Lac and the river St. Louis. The sea- son of 1822 was spent by Mr Thompson and party, by direction of Mr Barclay in examining the first mentioned route." (Mss. in National Archives). He added that both parties, "having become satisfied that the last mentioned route is the correct one," have been engaged in surveying it. "They have ascertained the latitude and longitude of the most northwestern point of the Lake of the Woods, or rather of two or three points some distance apart, each of which has claim to that distinction." He then promises to transmit the accounts "by Mr. Delafield, who will visit Washington immediately after the session of the Board." It is due entirely to the tenacity of Major Delafield that a large productive part of the State of Minnesota was saved to the nation. The Mesabi Range lies mostly within this area. Under date of November 6, 1942, the Honorable R. R. Sayers, Director of the United States Bureau of Mines, reports as follows: "At the end of 194 1, a grand total of 1,178,414,192 gross tons of iron ore had been reported mined from the Mesabi Range since operations began. During 1941, pro- duction on the Mesabi Range totaled 59,688,047 tons. "It is regretted that no data are available to indicate the value of shipments from the Mesabi Range. The Lake Erie price of Mesabi non-bessemer ore during 1941 was $4.45 per gross tons." This would indicate a value of ore shipped for the year 1941 alone to amount to $265,611,809.15. BOOK TWELVE 463 La Priarie Portage (no communication) descent 5 Knifestone Lake Portage, descent 6 Six rapids of the Cedars and two falls 30 Sacher Portage Falls 6 Great White Wood Portage Falls 15 Litde White Wood Portage Falls & Rapids 15 Great Tree Portage Falls 6 ft. & rapid near it 7 ft 13 Point of Woods Portage Falls 8 Crooked Lake Rock Portage Falls 20 Curtain Falls from Crooked Lake 35 Three rapids just after portage 5 Flaggon Portage Falls to Lac la Croix (not seen) 24 Two other Lac la Croix Port, falls one 15 other 5 ft 20 Litde Need Port. Falls from Lac Nemecan 4 318 over 318 Two rapids of River la Pluie above its falls 4 Falls of River la Pluie 25 Manitou and Long Sault Rapids of River la Pluie 8 Descent of the several Rivers & straits not included in this estimate say 1 25 miles 30 descent of water courses 385 There appears by this estimate to be a difference of 1 74 feet of descent of the water courses between the two routes. The lands' height however I conceive, is as elevated by the new as by the old route. It cannot vary much from an elevation of 200 feet above the little Lac de l'eau froid which lies on the side of the height. The cold water Lake I consider to be 50 feet below the level of Lac Milieu on the other side of the ridge, whereas by the old route, the two lakes of the height are on the same level. Descent from the Height of Land by the new route to the Lake of the Woods feet Descent of Portage la Priarie and rapid of Portage Milieu 3 Portage la Savanne 1 ft. & Portage du Baril 2 3 Falls & Rapid a la Pente Portage 1 o, Pine Lake Rapid 2 12 Several rapids of River Francoise (not seen) 8 Falls of River Francoise 12 Falls of Portage des Mortes 8 Falls of Two River Portage 20 20 Falls and rapids of River Malign 30 From thence over Lac a la Croix as by the other route to Lake of the Woods 115 descent of water courses 211 464 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY Descent from the Height of Land by the new route to Lake Superior feet Source of cold water Lake above the lake 8 Descend from do to River du Chien 2 Do. of River du Chien to the portage n Falls and rapids of Portage du chien 200 Falls of Petite Portage du Chien 7, thence to a demi-portage 20 and rapids of do 3 30 Thence to Knifestone Portage 10, Knifestone Portage Falls 15, and next falls & rapids 6 31 Fall of Portage de L'isle 10, Rose Rapid 8 18 Fall of Portage Ecarte 30 From Portage Ecarte to Mountain Falls 25 The Mountain Falls 125 Eighteen Miles Rapid of the River Kamanistiguia 25 descent of water courses 505 add 200 feet for the height of land above the water sources, and it gives an elevation of 700 feet above the level of Lake Superior. These estimates are entirely conjectural, being founded on no other observations then those of the eyes; their coincidence however with similar observations by others of the party, made at different times, render it probable that they do not vary ma- terially from the truth. Descent from Height of Land by old route to Lake Superior ft. Portage to East Lake of Height of Land 35 Culbut in Lake Rose 4 Little Cherry Portage 80 Muddy Portage 25 Great Cherry Portage 1 50 Moose Lake 15 Portage into outward lake 30 Pigeon River Rapids 10 Perdrix Portage of Pigeon River 70 W. end of Grand Portage above level of Lake Superior by careful estimate 1 95 feet 614 This estimate is made by Doctr. Bigsby and Mr. Thompson. Distances miles From Muskrat Portage over Lake of the Woods to mouth of La Pluie River 60 La Pluie River 80 BOOK TWELVE 465 Lac a la Pluie Portage to portage 40 Lac Nemecan and Strait and Lac Vermillion & Strait to la Croix Portage 35 Three la Croix Straits and Portages 10 Lac la Croix 20, Malign River 12 32 Sturgeon Lake 18, Grass River 3, Lac des Mortes 2 23 Lac Dorade to Portage Francois 18, Rivr. Frans. 4 22 Pine Lake 2, Man Eaters Lake 6 8 La Pente River 2, Lac du Baril 7 9 Mille Lac 22, River la Savanne 18 40 Lake Savanne 2, Lac & Portage la Priarie 3 5 Cold Water Lake to River du Chien 7 River du Chien 50, Lac & Port, du Chien 13 63 Portage du Chien to Portage PMontagne 15 over 449 Portage la Montagne to Point Meuron 18 Point Meuron to Fort William 9 miles 476 From Fort William to Sault St. Mary's 450 Sault St. Mary's to Drummond's Island 40 Drumd. Island to Mackinac 30 Mackinac to The greatest length of Lake Superior viz. from Point Iroquois to the Fond du Lac, as ascertained by Mr. Thompson's log measurement is 541 Its greatest breadth, miles 140 INDEX INDEX Abbot, Samuel 287 and note, 377 Abeel, Mr. 377 Abeel, Henry, a Seneca Indian 234, 242 Aberdeen, Lord 5 note, 118, 121 note Adams, David P. 37 and note, 135 and note, 1 38-1 41 note, 146-148, 150, 159, 161, 170-172, 174-176, 182, 183, 188, 189, 192 and note, 193, 195-201, 203- 211, 215 and note, 218 Adams, John 15, 16, 24, 27, 84, 86-90, 106 note, 121 Adams, John Quincy 27, 32, 33, 36 and note, 44 note, 45, 46 and note, 48 and note, 52, 55, 58 note, 61, 62 and note, 63, 64 note, 66 note, 73 note, 74, 81, 85-87, 89, 91, 116, 125, 126 and note, 261, 262 and note, 268 note, 272 note, 275 note, 336 note, 375 note, 461 note Addington, Henry Unwin 31, 32 note, 126 note Agates 456 Agnew, Mr. 370 Agwesasne, Indian for St. Regis 184 Ainslie, Hew 269 and note A-ja-wa-wa Satagan or Height of Land Lake 409, 410 Albany, New York 135, 180, 215, 217, 261, 266, 331, 332, 335, 374, 375, 461, 462 Alleghany 332, 376 Allen, Ethan 149 and note American Falls, Niagara 245 American Fur Company 70, 287, 369, 372, 379, 422, 461 American Personnel, The 189, 282, 336, 368 Amherstburg 279, 336-338, 359 Amity Point 138 note Amygdaloid 289 and note Ancaster 376 Anchor Bay 344 Anderson, Colonel 373 Anderson, Judge William 142, 307, 371 Anderson, Mr. 142, 150 Anderson's Tavern 1 77 Antiseptics, plants used by Indians for 152 Arctic Ocean 445 note Armentinger, Mr. 370, 381 Arnold, Benedict 150 Aroostook, Maine 1 1 7 and note Arrow Lake 76, 406, 408 Arrow River 76, 78, 406 Ashburton, Lord 5 note, 68 and note, 89, 116, 118, 119 and note, 120 and note, 121 and note, 123, 126, 127 Astor, John Jacob 22, 220, 287 note Astoria, on the Columbia River 22, 23 and note, 287 Atcheson, Nathaniel 13 note, 24 note Athabasca Country 427, 428, 444, 445 Atwater, Judge Russell C. 1 44 and note, 145, 148-150, 161, 177, 193, 200 Auburn, New York 335, 376 Auburn prison 266 Auckland, Lord 21 Ault's Tavern 186 Aurora Borealis 155, 309 Autobiography, The, of Major Joseph Delafield 73, 90 and note, 106 note, 121 Avon, New York 249, 250, 267, 331, 368 Baggs, Mr. of Utica 331 Baggs' Tavern, Utica 214, 217, 255 Bagot, Charles 23, 26 note, 27 Baie Noire, in Lake Superior 450 Bailey, a guide at Niagara Falls 227 Baily, Miss, of New York 255 Bailey, Thomas A. 24 note, 29, 118 note, 1 1 9 note, 1 26 note Baird, Mr. of Albany 180 Baker, Major 279, 280 Baldwin, E. 217 Ballast Island 364 Balston Spa 257-259 Bamman's Hotel, Albany 266, 331 Barclay, Anthony 8, 1 1 note, 36 note, 44, 48, 5 6 "5 8 and note > 61, 62, 65, 67-69 note, 89, 92, 96 and note, 97, 98 note, 103-111 note, 112 and note, 114, 115 and note, 121, 123 note, 184-186, 266 note, 273, 335, 336, 373, 462 note Barclay, Thomas 12 note, 15, 22 note, 38, 171 note 470 INDEX Baril, Lac du 439, 464 Baril, Portage du 439, 463 Barnhart's Island 59, 148, 152, 154, 155 Barn Island 451 Barques Point, Lake Huron 283, 323 Barton, Mrs. at Lewistown 228 Barton, Mr. 167 Barton & Porter 164 and note, 165 Bass Islands, North, South, and Middle, in Lake Erie 60, 330, 364 Basse, North, Island 365 Basswood Lake 412 note Batavia, New York 249, 335 Bathurst, Lord 22 note Baxter, and his son 158, 159 Baxter's, or Long Sault Island 59, 155- 157, 162, 199, 211 Bayfield, Henry Wolsey 381 and note Beauhaunois, Beauharnois, Estate 179 Beaver Island 60 Beaver Skins 444, 445 Beavers' tails 381 Belle Riviere, La, The Ohio 10 note Belle Riviere, of St. Clair 325, 327 Belle Riviere Island 60 Bcllew, Mrs. 328 Benson, Egbert 15, 18, 19 Berg le, a boatman 460 Bering Straits 125 Berry's Steam Boat Hotel 219 Bero, a boatman 209 Best, Mr. 282, 293, 294, 296, 297, 300- 3°3, 3° 6 , 3!3> 3 21 Biddle, Mrs. John 277, 278, 377 Biddle, John, of Detroit 278 note, 379 Biddle, Major Thomas 163 and note, 280, 281, 328, 378 Bidwell, Barnabas 372 Bigsby, Dr. John J. 37 note, 62 note, 135 note, 229, 289 and note, 290, 293, 311, 321, 335, 336, 345. 35°, 35*. 354-358, 425, 426, 428, 432, 435, 449, 464 Bird, William A. 37, 138 and note, 173, J95> ! 97> *9 8 > 2 °°, 202 > 205-211, 218, 219, 224, 225, 247, 272 and note, 277, 279, 280, 282, 286, 289-291, 293, 296, 2 97, 2 99"3°6> SO&^S. S^S^y 3 2 5> 327, 328, 33 6 -34i 1 344-346, 35°-354, 357, 358> 360, 361, 363, 364, 366 Bitumen, mineral 300, 301 Black, Lieutenant 354 Black, Mrs. 279 Black Bay 399 Black River Country 145 note Black River 153, 325, 342, 343.. 351, 378 Black Rock 44, 48, 61 note, III, 118 note, 164-166, 178, 205, 218-222, 224, 229, 230, 243, 246-248, 267, 279, 326, 33o» 33i, 335. 336, 355. 367. 368, 373, 376, 388, 461 note Blake, Captain, Master of the Tiger 461 Blaquiere, Mrs. 21 1, 212 Bloomfield, West, New York 250 Bluff Island 60 Bluff Point 158. 160, 170-172, 182 Bodette, Beaudette, Point aux 1 78 Bohen, Mr. 189, 197 Boice's Point 176 Bois Blanc Island 52, 53 and note, 55, 58, 60, 69 note, 107 note, 122 note, 285, 2 86, 330, 340, 341 and note, 353, 354, 359, 368 note, 379 Bois Blanc Lake 412, 414, 417, 437 Bois Blanc, Great Portage 413 Bois Blanc, Little Portage 414, 415 Boss, Ter. of Salem, New York 180 Boston 71, 142 Boston Harbor 319 Bottle Portage 416 Bouchette, Joseph 185 and note Boyd, Mr. 379 Boyd, Colonel John P. 370 and note, 371 Bradley, William Czar 184 note, 185, 204 Brady, Colonel Hugh 162, 219, 221, 373 and note Breeze, Mr. of Utica 214, 255, 256 Brent, Daniel 36 note, 261 Bridgewater, Mr. and Mrs. and sister 170 Brisbois 38 1 , 383, 384, 388, 395, 396, 460 British Museum 372 Briton's Point 210 Brock, General Sir Isaac 243 and note Brockville 169, 193-195, 198, 201-203 Brodhies, Mr. 279 Brooks, Mrs. 278 Brown, a shepherd 350 Brown, an artist 228 Brown, Major Gen. Jacob 148 and note, 1 58, 1 60 and note, 1 70, 205, 2 1 9, 2 77 note Brown's Purchase 217 Brown ville 205, 213 Brush Creek 442 Bryce's Point 1 73 Buchanan, a British officer 149 note INDEX 471 Buchanan, James 127 Buffalo 1 65, 2 1 9, 22 1 , 229-231 , 242, 247- 249. 267, 300, 330, 335, 336, 368, 373, 376, 461 Buffalo Creek 220, 229, 242, 248 Buffalo Village, near Buffalo 231 Bull's Island, in Lake Erie 269 Bulow, Miss 258 Bunall, Mr. and Mrs. of Geneva 253 Bunce's Mills 378 Burlington, Vermont 149 Burr, Aaron 149 Burroughs, Rev. Charles 267 and note Burrows, Stephen 139 Cabel, Mrs. 221 Cadaracqui, now Kingston 216 Caijochquadoz, Carjochoquadoz, Creek 245 and note, 246 Caine, Mr. 379 Callahan, J. M. 23 note Calquhoun's, Colquhoun's Tavern 150, 161, 184, 185 Camp, Mrs. 269, 271 Campobello Island 12 note Canandaigua, New York 235, 236, 249, 266, 335, 374 Canandaigua Lake 250 Canandasaga, or Geneva 250 Canjocquaddy Creek 242 Cannasaraugus 374 Canning, Viscount Stratford 58 note, 105, 126 Canoes, see under Vessels, Mackinac, Montreal and North canoes Cantharidae 184 and note Cariboef, or St. Anne Island in Lake Superior 86, 93, 95, 102 Cariboo Rapids and Portage 406, 407 Carlton Island 60, 204 Carnelians 456 Carthage 163, 169, 376 Cartwright, Mr. 346, 347, 353 Cartwright's Island 345 Cass, Captain 279 Cass. Governor Lewis 278 and note, 3 1 3, 328, 369, 375 note, 377, 378 Cass, Mrs. Lewis 277, 278, 281, 373, 377 Castlereagh. Lord 23, 24, 27 Cataraguy River 1 9 and note, 30, 3 1 , 47, 48 note, 49, 59, 141 note, 171 note Cats Islands 59 note Cattaraugus 367 Caves, on Put in Bay Island 365, 366 Cayuga Bridge 368 Cayuga Lake 250, 254, 368 Cedars, The 137, 178, 181 Cedar Portage 413 Cedar Rapids and Fall 413, 462 Celeron Island 57, 355 Cerfs, Isle aux 60 Champion or Champlin, Mr. 365 and note Champlain, Lake 24 note, 26-28, 149 Chancellor Livingston, a steamboat, sec under Vessels Channing, Mr. 206 Channing, The Misses of Boston 258 Chapeau Isle 102, 120 Chaplin, Mr. 166 Charlevoix, M. 108 Charlottenberg 137, 150 Chatteaguey 1 79 Chataga, Chataguey Point 136, 179 Chateaugay Woods 184 Chaudiere Falls 1 07 note, 1 1 2 and note, 122 note, 420, 421, 435, 436 Chenille, Chenail, Ecarte 156, 281, 345, 348, 349, 353 Cherry Portages, Great and Little 407, 408, 464 Chesley's Tavern, Cornwall 186 Chicago River, The 268 Chien Point 282 Chien, Prairie du 280, 371 note Chien, Portage du 443, 444, 446, 448, 463, 464 Chien, Lac du, see Dog Lake Chien, Petit Portage du 446, 463 Chien, Riviere du, see Dog River Childs, Mr. 372 Chimney Island 188, 189 Chimney Point 188, 189 Chine and Rapids, La 136, 178, 179 Chipman, Ward 184-186 and note Chippewa, village 222 Chippewa, Battle of 149 Chippeway, Jibway, Bay 203 Chippawa Sheets or Creek 166 Chiputnaticook 18 note, 19, 31 Chittiningo, New York 374 Chrystler's Fields 158 Chrysder's Island 60 Chunn, Major 278-280 Chuytter's house 286 Cigne Riviere 328 Citadel Hill 136 472 INDEX Clark, Mr., Episcopal clergyman 251 Clark, William 21 Clapp, Benjamin 287 and note Clarkstown, New York 376 Clay, Henry 92, 96-98, 100, 101 and note, 104, 105, no, in and note Clear, Point 136, 179 Clements, Judge 340 Cleveland, Cleaveland, Ohio, 268, 336, 373, 377 Cleveland, Mr. 206 Clink Stone 308 Clinton, De Witt 215 and note Clinton, Mr. 376 Clinton, T., the steward 176, 202, 206, 208, 210, 2ii } 228, 272, 279, 282, 306, 307, 3i3, 336-338, 34i, 344, 346, 353, 362, 363, 367, 373 Cloches, Les 308 Cobscook River 1 3 and note Cochnarwaga, Cocknowaga, Caughna- waga, an Indian village 136 Cochany, Coshany, Creek 253, 374 Coclicus Indicus 199 Cod, The Lake 352 Coit, Captain of the Hannah 366, 367 Cold Water Lake 93, 442, 443, 463, 464 Colden, D. 248 Collins, Mr. 381 Colt, Mr. 179 Colt, Miss, of Geneva 250-252 Colt, Mr. of Geneva 250, 251, 253 Columbia River 20 note, 21-23 and note, 444, 445 Comet, A 247 and note Conant, Mr. 192 Congress water, from Saratoga 258 Conly, Mr. 142 Connecticut Reserve, The 365 Connecticut River 11, 19, 30, 31, 122, 141 note Constable, William of New York 208 note Contine, Mr. 148 Cooke, Mr. 277, 280 Cooper, Frederick, the cook 290-293, 297, 336, 367 Copperhead snake 346 Cornwall Island 59 and note, 142, 144, 150, 153 Cornwall, village 138, 142, 153, 161, 164, 178, 181, 184, 186 Coteau de Lac 137, 178, 181 Cox, Mr. 180 Crab Island 153 Cray fish 298 Croix, Lac la 22 note, 77, 79, 93, 107 note, 122 note, 412, 416-419, 431, 436, 437, 462-464 Croix, la, Lake, Portages 418, 420, 436, 464 Croix, la, River 418, 436 Crooked Lake Rock Portage Falls 414, 462 Crooked Lake 77, 412, 414-417, 437 Crooks, Ramsay 268 and note, 269, 287, 288, 320 Crosse, Isle a la 61 Crown Point 180 Crown Point, New York 1 35 Crowningshield, B. W. 26 note Cunningham Island, in Lake Erie 60, 268, 269 Curtain Falls 416, 462 Curtois, Mr. of Kingston 249 Cushman, Mr. of Troy 217,261,331 Cuthbert, Mrs. 243, 245 Cutler, Major Enos 460 and note Cuvier 35 note, 200, 352 and note Cypress Lake 107, note, 122 note Dalhousie, Governor 308 D'Anville's Map 3 Darby, William 182 and note, 196-202, 205, 215 and note d'Aspremont, Count 335 Davenport, Mr. 434 Davidson, Mrs. of Geneva 245, 246 Davis, Mr. 279 Deacon, Captain 247 D'ease, John Warren 394, 424 Death Lake 438 Deer Island 12 note Deerfield, Massachusetts 144 and note De la Barre, Governor 2 1 6 Delafield, Henry and William 188 note, 228, 247, 249 Delafield, John 228, 316 and note Delafield, Mrs. John 288 and note Delafield, Brig. Gen. John Ross 34 note, 87 note, 121 note Delafield, Major Joseph 7 and note, 8 note, 34 and note, 35 note, 37, 40 and note, 41 and note, 45, 46 and note, 47 and note, 48, 49, 51, 52, 55, 56 and note, 62 and note, 63, 64, 66 and note, 67» 69, 75, 78, 80, 82, 83, 85, 86 and INDEX 473 Delafield, Major Joseph (contd.) note, 87-89, 92-95, 97, 100, 1 01, 104, 105, 107, 109, no and note, ill and note, 1 13 and note, 114, 115, 118 note, 121, 123, 125, 129-131, 159 note, 160 note, 262 note, 263 note, 282, 375 note, 461 note, 462 note Delafield, Joseph, his commission as Agent 335 note, 386 note Delafield, General Richard 41 note, 197, 201 and note, 203, 206, 207, 209, 211, 228 De la Salle 2 1 6 Delavan, Dr. Benjamin 277 and note, 278, 279, 281 Denmark, New York 2 1 3 Dennis, Congden, a boatman 336 de Pau, The Misses 258 De Russy, Major Louis G. 218,219,248 and note, 272, 276-278, 280, 282, 286, 296, 297, 299-301, 303-306, 309, 312- 314, 316, 317, 319, 321, 328, 329 Detour Point 288, 296, 315, 319 Detroit 10 note, 159 note, 267, 274, 275, 277-281, 328, 336, 338, 340, 341, 353, 355. 36a> 372, 377, 378, 461 Detroit River 44, 45, 52, 54-56, 60, 272, 273. 275, 277, 281, 282, 330, 337, 339, 343-345> 350, 353> 354, 366, 388 Detroit, The, in Lake la Pluie 421 Devil's Hole, Niagara 226 De Witt, Simeon 224 and note Diable Point 137 Diary, The, of Major Joseph Delafield 7 and note, 8, 34, 35 note, 41, 61 note, 67, 72, 73, 107, 122, 129, 130, 131 Dickinson, Dr. 186 Dickinson, Mr. and Mrs. John D. of Troy 266 and note Dillabogh's house 182, 183, 186, 187 Distances, computations 263, 264, 268, 387, 464, 465 Dix, Governor John Adams 219 and note 220 Dog Lake 92 note, 93, 103, 106, 108, 115*443,444,464 Dog River in Michipicoten 456 Dog River, see also Kamanistegua and Riviere du Chien 22 note, 73, 88, 89, 93, 113 note, 442, 443, 445, 446, 450, 463, 464 Dog River Falls, The, sec also Mountain Falls 447, 448 Dog River Portage, see Chien, Portage du Dominick, Mr. 218 Dongan, Colonel 215 Dorade, Lac 93, 438, 464 Dorchester, The Governor General of Canada 355 Doty, Judge James Duane, of Michigan 375, 379 Douglas, David Bates 221 and note, 224, 225, 247, 248 Douglas, Thomas, Earl of Selkirk, see Selkirk Douseman, Hercules Louis 371 note Douseman, Michael 371 and note Draine, Mr. 2 1 1 Drummond's Island in Lake Huron 44, 61, 288-293, 296-300, 302, 303, 305-307, 309-321, 323, 330, 370, 37i, 380, 381, 460, 461, 465 Drummond's Island, in the St. Lawrence 187, 188, 191-193 Dry, or Smuggler's Island 60, 173 Duck Island 60 Ducks, The, islands in Lake Ontario 60 Dudley, Mr. 230 Dudley Island, Maine 12 note, 13 note du Loup River 324, 325 Duluth, City of 130 Dunkirk, on Lake Erie 256, 257, 368 Du Quesne, Marquis 10 note Dutchess County 253 Dwight, William Theodore, son of Timo- thy 215 and note Eagle Channel 341, 346, 348, 350, 353 Eastern Sister Island, in Lake Erie 60, 359-364 Eastport, Maine 12 note l'Eau Froid, Lac de 442, 443, 463 Ebano Point 373 ficarte Portage 447, 464 Score, des, cliff 455, 456 Eel Bay 2 1 1 Eels, in the Great Lakes 268 Eighteen miles Rapid, of the River Ka- manistiguia 464 Elba 353 Elevations across Height of Land 462, 463, 464 Ellicott, Andrew 57 and note, 59, 140 and note, 141, 142, 144-150, 171 note, 177-185 Ellicott, Joseph 140 note, 141, 237, 239 Ellicott Point 152-154 474 INDEX Elliot, Mr. 279 Emprie's, Impay's, Island 157, 170 Epidote, crystals 300 Equipment, personal, of Major Delafield 268 Erie 268, 336, 367, 376, 377 Erie Canal 98, 255, 266, 375 Erie, Fort 166, 220, 247, 267, 353, 356 Erie, Lake 1 1, 26 and note, 48 and note, 49, 52, 60, 165, 216, 220, 225, 226, 229, 291, 3°o> 325, 328, 330, 343, 345, 350, 354, 357-359> 375 l'Escalier Falls 411, 462 Escrit, Petit des, inscriptions 451 Essex, New York 135 Evans, Colonel 70th Regiment 227 Evans, L. Mr. 332 Expense accounts 189, 190, 216, 244, 264, 265, 295, 332-334, 35 8 Faden, Mr. 89 and note Fairport 377 Fancher, Isaac, a boatman 336 Farley, Captain 279 Ferguson, James 67 note, 72, 73,218 and note, 219, 224, 226, 247, 272, 290, 294, 306, 336, 337, 340, 344, 346, 350, 353- 35 6 , 360, 362, 364, 366, 368-370, 373, 375, 380, 408, 412, 418, 424-436, 449, 450, 454-45 6 5 45 8 -46i and note Ferguson's Map 403, 404, 412 Field, Miss 243-245 Fighting, or Great Turkey Island 44, 57 and note, 60, 273, 275 Fine, Mr. 161, 174 Fish. Hamilton 3 note, 124 and note Fitzmaurice, Lord William 5 and note Flaggon Portage Falls 462 Flat Nose Peter, an Indian 155 Flint Lake, or Pierre au Feu Lac 410 Florida, West 19 note Folger, Walter, of Nantucket 294 and note Fond du Lac 70 and note, 71-73, 75, 78, 81, 82 and note, 84-86 and note, 88, 90, 91, 103, 106 and note, 107-109, 113 note, 114, 115, 121, 130, 369, 405, 426, 462 note, 465 Fontain, a steersman, see Fountain Ford, Judge 169,218 Forsyth, Mr. 224, 227, 267 Forsyth's house 166, 167, 243, 267, 335 Forsyth, Colonel Benjamin 1 73, 348 Forsyth, John 1 1 7 note 45th Parallel 47, 139, 141 note, 142, 171 note, 177 note, 295, 330 49th Parallel 13, 21 and note, 29 and note, 72 and note, 103, 104, 123, 127, 430 Forts Erie 166, 220, 247, 267, 353, 356 George, on the Columbia River 444 George, near Niagara 164, 167, 243 Gratiot 282, 323-326, 351, 369, 378, 379 Holmes 286 Mackina 286 Madison Barracks, at Sacket's Harbor 213 Niagara 164, 167, 168, 218, 224, 228, 243, 274 l'Pluie 412, 414, 417, 418, 422, 424, 425, 434, 435, 44i William 72, 75, 92 note, 375 note, 380, 381, 383, 385, 393, 399, 400, 404, 405, 417, 4i8, 430, 435, 446, 449, 45°, 456, 460, 464, 465 Fossils, ammonites 284 Corralium catenulatum or chain coral 369, 460 Encrinites, etc. 253 Madripores 247, 248, 278, 292, 315, 320, 321, 343, 363, 433 Orthocera 299, 301, 304, 306 Reteporites 320 Shells 252, 271, 277, 278, 284, 292, 299, 315, 343, 363, 433 Terebratulae 147 Trees 374 Trilobites 253, 369, 428 Tubipores 460 Fountain, Joseph, a boatman 381, 388, 460 Fowl Lakes 81 note, 107 note, 122 note Fox Island 57, 58, 60 Fox Island, in Lake Ontario 60 Fox's, Mr. 362 Francoise Portage 438, 464 Francoise, Riviere 438, 439, 463, 464 Francoise River Falls 463 Franklin, Benjamin 3, 4 Fraser, Major Donald 36, 37, 40, 41 and note, 62 note, 118 note, 135 and note, 138, 161, 173, 178, 182, 185 note, 195- 198, 200, 201-205, 210-212, 224, 247- 249, 272 and note, 275, 276, 278, 282, 286, 289, 294, 312 INDEX 475 Fraser, General 157 Fraser, Mr. of the North West Company 180 Frederick Island, Maine 12 note, 13 note Frederic Point 213 French, Mr. 142 French Canadians 130, 394, 404, 409, 416, 438, 439 French Mills 151, 177, 178, 185 Frey, Mr. of Canojaharie 256 Fringilla Vespertine 440 Frontenac 10 note Frontenac, Count 216 Frying-pan Island 380, 460 Fuca de, Juan, Strait 128 and note Fulton, Mr. 176 Fundy, Bay of 10, 12 note Gaff, Major 371, 460 Gallatin, Albert 4, 23 note, 24, 31 and note, 126 and note Gallissoniere de la, Marquis 10 note Galloir 218 Gallop Islands, in Lake Ontario 60 Gallop Islands, 1 to 10 in Thousand Islands 60, 187, 188, 194, 196 Gannanauque River 207, 208, 211 Ga-ra-give-ne-gen, Indian name given Major Delafield 145, 161 Garden River 371 Gar-fish, or Bill-fish, Esox osseous 347 Garrard, Mr. of Montreal 184 Gas, Natural, at Dunkirk 257 Gates, Capt. William 218 and note, 228 Gault, Miss 250-252 Gedney, Lieut. Thomas R. 196 and note Genesee Falls 163 Geneva, New York 250, 251, 253, 374, 461 Geneva, Lake 250 Genesee River 163, 169, 214 note, 249, 267, 331 Geoman's Tavern, Pittsfield, Mass. 180 George, Fort, near Niagara 164, 167, 243 George, Lake 290, 380 Georgia, Gulf of 127 note Georgian Bay 124, 339 Germany, Emperor of 124, 125 note, 128 note Gibbs, Mr., a draftsman 289, 306, 345, 356, 357 Gibraltar 141 Gibraltar Cliff, in South Basse Island 364 Gillett, Captain, Master of the Red Jacket also of the Superior 282, 293, 304, 3°9> 3 JI > 3*3, 321, 461 Ginmdler River, 343 and note Gip, Mr. 226 Gist, Mr. 332 Gleason, Miss 278 Goat, or Iris Island 60, 165, 219 and note, 221 Gomley, Mr. 2 1 1 Goodrich, Chauncey Allen 215 and note Goose Neck Island 60, 379, 461 Gore, Mrs. 197 Gorgontoit 456 Gorham, Benjamin 233 and note Gorham, Mr. of Canandaigua 250 Goss, Dr. 155 Goule Bay, in Lake Superior, see Goute 459 Goute Bay, in Lake Superior, see Goule 389 Granadier, Grenadier, Island 60, 203, 218 Grande Isle, or Long Island, in the St. Lawrence 60, 204, 210, 221, 222 Grand Island, in Lake Ontario 60 Grand Menan Island 12 note Grand Portage 63 and note, 68 note, 7<>73> 75> 77. 79> 81, 82 note, 83, 88-90, 101, 106 and note, 115 note, 121, 403- 406, 408, 409, 430, 449, 462 and note, 464 Grand River 268, 367 Granger, Mr. of Canandaigua 250 Grant, Mr. Master of the Confiance 289, 321, 338, 339 Grant, a boatman 306 Grant, Charles 31, 32 note, 126 note Grant, Ulysses S. 123, 124 and note, 125 note Granville, New York 180, 181 Grass River 153, 464 Gratiot, Fort 282, 323-326, 351, 369, 378, 379 Gravelly Island 451 Gravel, Gravelly, Point 169, 204, 205, 208, 211, 451 Graves, of Perry's men 364, 365 Gray, a draftsman 183, 184, 189, 225, 226 Gray, Colonel 143, 152 476 INDEX Gray, John, an interpreter 1 50 Gray, Louis 177, 181 Gray, Margaret 143 Great Black Bay 385 Great Carrying-place, Grand Portage 22 note Great Pine Portage 411 Great Spirit, The 456 Great Tree Portage 414, 462 Great Turkey, or Fighting Island 44, 57 and note, 60, 273, 275 Green Bay, Wisconsin 278 note, 280, 326, 346, 367, 377 Greenleaf, Moses 1 1 6 and note Green Point, in Lake Superior 384 Green-Wood Cemetery 221 note Gregg, Rev. 258 Gregg, Mr. of Canandaigua 250 Grindstone Island 60, 204, 207, 209, 210 Griswold, Mr. 460 Gros Cap, or Grosse Cape 67 and note, 102, 370, 388, 389, 459, 460 Gross Isle 36 note, 53 note, 57, 266 note, 280, 328, 353, 380 Gross River 437 Grosse Roche Portage 437 Guadaloupe 141 Guernsey, Mr. of Dunkirk 256 Gum, for canoes 395, 402, 424, 446 Gun Point, in Lake Superior 397 Gwynn, Mr. 377, 378 Hague Township 198, 203 Hale, John 51-53 note, 54, 55, 64, 66 note, 69 note, 81, 83, 94, 95, 112, 114, 170 note, 182-184, 186, 189, 219, 243, 266, 273, 335, 336 Halifax 1 4 Hall, Captain 194 Hallett, Mr. of Pulteneyville 251, 252 Hallett, Catharine 261 note Hamilton, Alexander 149, 230 note Hamilton, Village 157 and note, 158, 159 note, 160, 170, 173, 175, 176, 178, 182, 185 Hane's Tavern 1 74 Hanford's Landing 164 Hangman's Channel 344 Hargrove, James 337, 367 Hartshorne, Dr. 343 and note Hasbrouck, Mr. 160 Haskins, Captain of the Sylph 366 Hassler, Ferdinand Rudolph 177 and note, 184, 188, 198, 204 Hassler, Mr. the son 204 Hathaway's Tavern, at Youngstown 2 1 8 Hawkesbury, Lord 12 note Hawkins, Colonel G. 227, 247, 273, 279, 328, 354-359, 369 Hawkins, Colonel Samuel, often Mrs. Hawkins mentioned with him 35, 36 and note, 37 and note, 38 and note, 39 and note, 40 and note, 41 and note, 135, 139 and note, 141, 142, i45" l 41, *49" 151, 154, 157, 159, 160, 170, 171, 173, 174, 176-178, 180, 181, 183, 185 and note, 186-189, 1 91 -1 96, 198-200, 202, 203, 207, 208, 213, 229, 248, 261, 262 Heaving, Captain 218 Height of Land, The, between Lake Supe- rior and Lake of the Woods 76, 79, 80 note, 81 note, 93, 406, 409-411, 414, 416, 425, 432, 437, 442, 443, 462-464 Height of Land, between Lake Superior and Hudson's Bay 453 Height of Land, Lake of the 76, 409, 410, 464 Height of Land Portage 410, 442 Heileman, Mr. 247 Hell Gate, New York 153 Hen and Chickens Islands, in Lake Erie 60 Hennepin, Father 168 and note Heriot's Travels 146 Herkimer, New York 214, 215 Herson's Island 60, 351, 352 Hickey's house 251 Hickory Island 57, 60, 353 Higgins, Mr. 335 High Beach Island 302 Hill's House 2 1 8, 364, 367 Hitchcock, Rev. Edward 151 and note Hockhoken 332 Hoffman, Martin 174 Hoffman, Ogden 34 note Hog Island 278, 353, 378 Hog Island, in Detroit River 60 Hogan, William 145 and note, 177 Holland Land Co. 140 note, 159 note, 230 note Holland, Lord 21 Holland, Samuel 1 46 and note, 1 47, 1 48 Holmes, Fort 286 Holmes, Major 289 Homes, John 12 note, 22 note Horn Breeze, A 219 Horn, Cape 23 INDEX 477 Horse Shoe Bay 2 1 1 Horse Shoe Fall 222, 225 Horses, Canadian 377, 378 Horton, Mr. 359-362 Hortus Siccus 150, 200 Houdequot Embankment 375 House, Colonel James 369 and note, 373 Howell, David, of Rhode Island 15, 19 Hudson, Charles 335, 350 and note Hudson River, Palisades of, see Pallisadoes Hudson's Bay 384, 392, 396, 402 Hudson's Bay Company 21 note, 74, 77- 79 and note, 123, 308, 369, 381, 388, 392, 394, 400, 401, 414, 4i 7, 422 and note, 425, 430, 432 Hull, General William 348 Humphreys, General 124 note Huron, Lake 11, 26 note, 44, 45 and note, 48 and note, 49, 61, 66 and note, 122, 228, 272, 279, 283, 286, 290, 291, 302, 308, 311, 313, 315-317, 319, 323, 325, 326, 330, 338, 342, 345, 346, 349. 369, 372, 389, 397 Huron Point 340, 378 Huron River 281, 339-344 Hutchinson, Mr. 259 Hyde, Mr. a Missionary 230 Ildefonso 20 Pile de Portage, in Riviere Malin 436 Illinois River, The 268, 269, 372 Indians, miscellaneous Antiseptics, plants used by Indians for 152 Ave Maria 140 Chief, definition of 231 Chippewas 319, 324, 415 Chippewa Squaws 314 Collar of Claws 419 Costume of 400 Fox and Sac's 280 Graves of 319, 320 Hurons 273 Kahnuagas, Cochnawagas 140 Mohawks 140, 152, 216 Indian Mound 141, 178, 433 Jibway, see Chippewa Oneidas 152, 255 Onondago 205 Ottowas 3 1 9 Sachem, definition of 231 Sauters or Chippewas 415 St. Francis 152 St. Regis 140, 143, 151, 152, 159 St. Regis, names of chiefs 146 Senecas 216, 229 Steam bath of 400 Sioux 415 Tuscaroras 242 Welsh 216 Indians, persons Abeel, Henry, a Seneca 234, 242 Flat Nose Peter 1 55 Gray, Colonel 143, 152 Gray, Margaret 143 Johnson, Captain 240 King, Joeny, a Seneca Chief 240 Kingfisher, Loran Tarbell 146, 151- 153 Louis, Colonel, Chief of St. Regis In- dians 1 52 Mitchell, White 146 Onahata, an Oneida Chief 152 Osceola, Chief of the Cherokees 218 note Peter, a St. Regis Indian 146, 153 Pollard, a Seneca Sachem 232, 233, 240 Pontiac, an Indian Chief 274 Red Jacket, a Seneca 230, 233, 234, 239, 242, 326-328 Rentup, Capt. William 240 Roberson, Jim 240 Sa-wa-tis-ga-no-wa-te-se, Jacob 1 46, 153 Seneca, White 240 Tower, Destroy 240 Williams, Eunice, daughter of Rev. John 145 note Williams, an Indian descendant of Rev. John of Deerfield 1 44 International Boundary Commission 127 note, 128 note Ipecac, Wild, Triosteum Perfoliatum 200 and note Iris, or Goat Island 60, 165, 222, 226- 228, 245, 246, 267 Iron, Mesabi 465 note Iron, mineral 299, 306 Iroquois, Point 67 and; note, 102, 160, 182, 370, 465 Iroquois River 19 and note, 30, 31, 47 and note, 48 note, 49, 59, 141 note, 171 note Irving, Washington 287 note Island Portage, on the Dog River 447 Island Portage, in Lake of the Woods 427, 434 Islands, Lake of the 428, 429 478 INDEX PIsle, Portage de, in the Dog River 463 Ithaca, New York 368 Izard, General George 163 note, 166 and note, 377 note Jackson, Andrew 32, 33, 127, 182 note, 248 Jackson, Lieutenant 354, 356 Jackson, of Virginia 25 Jay, John 4, 14-18, 23, 86, 89, 90 note Jay, William 89 Jefferson County 204 Jefferson, Thomas 19 note, 20, 21 Jerseyfield Lots, The 214, 217, 255, 256, 375 Jervais, a boatman 460 John's Island, Sir 208, 210, 211 Johnson, Captain, an Indian 240 Johnson, Mr. and family 370, 371, 380, 381 Johnson, Sir John 207 and note Johnson, Sir William 207 note Johnstown 187 Johnstown, New York 2 1 7 Jonas' Island 120 Jones, Mr. 372 Jones, Colonel and Mrs. 219, 220 Jones, Mr. and Mrs. 278, 279, 281, 328 Jones, W. 25 note Kakabikka, or Mountain Falls 92 note Kamanistequa, Kamanistegua, or Dog River, and Route 1 1 note, 22 note, 73 and note, 75, 78, 79, 81, 82, 85, 88, 89 and note, 91 and note, 92 and note, 93, 96, 98 note, 99, 1 01, 103, 106 and note, 107 and note, 108, 109, in note, 112, 1 1 3 and note, 114, 115 and note, 1 1 8 note, 121, 130, 400, 445, 449 note, 464 Keweenaw Peninsula 70 note Keyser, Mr. and Mrs. 278 King, Joeny, a Seneca Chief 240 King, Rufus 12 note Kingfisher, Loran Tarbell, a St. Regis Indian Chief 146, 151 -153 Kingston 184, 204, 207, 209-213 Kitchin, Thomas 9 note Knapp, Captain 371 Knife Stone, or Knife, Lake 77, 41 2, 41 3, 417,437 Knife, or Knifestone, Portage 447, 463 Knifestone Portage Falls 463 Knife Stone Lake Portage 413, 462 Knox, General 15 Kousaki Lake 10 Ladoceur's, Ladeseur's, Laducre's, house 337, 339, 342 La Graves 357 Lake Alligator, or Leotuus Anguinus 230 Lakeman, David, a boatman 336, 376, 388, 442, 446 Lamb, Colonel 214 Lamprey eel 352 Lancaster, Joseph, a schoolmaster 215 and note Lancaster School, Albany 180 Landen's Hotel, Buffalo 219, 229, 249, 267 La Ray, Mr. 204, 205 Larned, Colonel Benjamin Franklin 278 and note, 279, 281 Latitude, Geocentric 177 note Latitude, Helicocentric 177 note Lawrence, Colonel 280, 381, 388 Lay, John, of Buffalo 249 Leavenworth, Colonel Henry 162 and note, 169 Ledyard, Mr. of Pulteneyville 254 Lee, Mr. 143 Legate, Captain 370-372, 377 L'enfant, Major Pierre Charles 57 note Leonard, Captain Richard 228 and note Leotuus Anguinus, or Lake Alligator 230 Le Roy, Miss Caroline 248 Le Roy, Jacob 248 Le Roy, village 249 Lewis, Mrs. 221 Lewis, Meriwether 21 Lewistown, see Louistown Lidell, Captain 173 Lily Lakes 408 note Lippmann, Walter 13 Little Falls, on the Mohawk 374, 375 Little Gun Flint Lake 410 note Little Island Discharge Rapid, on Riviere Malin 437 Little Need Portage Falls 463 Little Rock Lake 41 1 note Little Rock Portage 412 Livingston, Judge Brockholst 148 note Livingston, Edward, 32, 33 and note Livingston, Robert R. 19 note Lizards 230, 345 Long, Major 104 Long Lake 1 2 and note, 63, 65 and note, INDEX 479 Long Lake (contd.) 68 note, 69-71, 73, 75, 79, 80 and note, 81, 83, 84, 86-88, 90-92 note, 93-96, 99, 1 01, 106 and note, 107, 108, in note, 112, 113 and note, 118 note, 121, 398, 403, 404 Long Sault Rapids and Channel 59, I55> l61 Long Sault, of the St. Lawrence 149, I53> J 54, J 55, 157. 182, 183, 199 Long Sault, Lower, or Baxter's Island 59 and note, 155, 156 Long Sault Rapid, on la Pluie River 424, 426, 433, 463 Longueil village 1 79 Loon Lake 418 note Louch's Tavern 170, 171, 173 Louch's Island 171 Louis, Colonel, Chief of St. Regis Indians 152 Louisiana 19, 20 note, 21 and note Louistown, Lewistown, near Niagara 164, 167, 219, 224, 225, 243, 267, 373, 374, 376 Louisville 157, 171 Lull, Colonel 228 Lundy's Lane, Battle of 163 note, 167 Lynch, James 255, 256 Lyons, New York 375 MacDonald, Mr. and Mrs. 348, 350, 353 Macomb, Alexander 159 note Macomb, McComb, Alexander, General, son of Alexander 220 note, 277 and note, 279-281, 328 Macomb, McComb, Mrs. Alexander 278 McComb Right, The Macomb Right 159 and note McComb, Robert 214 McDonald, Mr. 142, 161, 178, 207 MacDonald's Point 137 MacDonough, Captain 25 note McCormick, Mr. of Point aux Playes Island 360 McCormick's Point 361-363 McCormick, Daniel 144 McFarland's 162 McGee's Tavern 1 78 McGee's Point 1 78 MacGillis, Mr. 22 note M'Gillivray, Simon 20 note, 21 note McGillivray, William 22 note, 94, 95 note, 114 and note, 180, 414, 417, 423- 425, 432, 434, 435 Mcintosh's store 356 McKay Portage 437 McKensie, Mr. Agent at Fort William 386, 401,403, 449 Mackenzie, Alexander 22 note, 445 note Mackenzie's River 444, 445 and note Mackina, or Michilimackinach or Mack- inac 220, 286-289, 3^,320,369, 371- 373,377 5 379,388,46o,46i,465 Mackina, Fort 286 Mackina Island 286 Mackinaw 229, 274, 280, 283, 286, 313 McLaughlin's 137 McLean, Colonel 142 McLeod, Alexander 118 and note McLoughlin, Dr. John 424 note McNeill, Lieut. William Gibbs 1 77 note McPherson's 137 McStorky, Mr. 279 McTavish, Mr. 393, 394, 396, 403, 452, 453 Madison Barracks, at Sacket's Harbor 213 Madison, James 12 note, 23 and note, 26, 30, 139 note, 149 Madrid Township 1 7 1 Mahan, Admiral Alfred T. 25 Magaguadawic, River 13 and note, 14 and note, 18 note Maine 116, 117, 119 and note, 120, 122 Maiden 273, 274, 277, 328, 353, 354, 356, 357, 369 Maligne, Malin, River 93, 412, 417, 436, 437, 438, 463, 464 Mallaby, Captain 163, 210, 213, 218 Malone 150, 151 Mamelles Isle 398, 451 Manatoulin, or Manitou, Islands 44, 291, 296, 297, 302, 307, 313 Manatoulin, or Manitou, Great 291- 293, 298, 305, 306 Manatoulin, or Manitou, Little 61, 292, 294, 305 Manchester, near Geneva 252, 255 Manchester, or Niagara 165, 222, 228, 245, 246 Man-eaters Lake 418, 439, 464 Manitou, see Manatoulin Manitou Rapid, on la Pluie River 424, 426, 433, 463 480 INDEX Manlius, New York 374 Mann, Dr. James 151 and note Mansion House, Albany 180 Mansion House, Montreal 179, 181 Mansion House, Sacket's Harbor 213 Maple Island 459 Maps, see D'Anvilles, Ferguson's, Mitch- ell's, Red Line, Vondevelden and Charland Maraboeuf Falls 412 note Marbois, Barbe 20 and note Mariam's Tavern 214 Mariboo Rapids 412 Markoe, a priest 1 40, 1 78 Marvin, the ferryman 245 Massachusetts 16, 17, 84, 116, 109 and note, 120, 122 Massena Point 150, 153, 199 note Massena, Village 155, 157 Maxwell, Captain 220 Mellen, Mr. 279, 377 Mellen, Mrs. 278 Merino sheep 348, 350 Merkoley & Hanes 171 Mesabi Iron Range 465 note Meule, Isle des 398 Meuron, Point 448, 449, 465 Miami Bay 328 Miami River 332 Michigan, Lake 24 note, 268, 269, 286, 3 26 > 342 Michilimackinach, or Mackina 22 note, 220 Michipicoten Bay 382, 383, 391-393, 396, 452, 455, 456 Michipicoten Cape 391, 392 Michipicoten Island 455 Middle Island, in Lake Erie 60 Middle Island, in Lake Huron 284-286, 323 Middle Channel, see Old Ship Channel Middle Sister Island, in Lake Erie 60, 364, 366 Middleton, Henry 125 Milieu, Lac 463 Milieu Portage 441, 463 Milk River 343, 344 Mill Rush, The 155 Mille Lake 93, 439, 440, 442, 464 Miller, Judge Morris S. 229-231, 234, 242, 255 Miller, Major 165 Milles Isles, Thousand Islands 199, 289 Mills, Lieut. Col. Dudley A. 5 and note, 10, 22 note, 34, 117, 121 note, 122 Miller, Wells, a boatman 368 Mineral Springs, at Ballston Spa 257, 258 Mineral Springs, at Saratoga 258-260 Minerals, Cristaline, Major Delafield's collection 221 and note, 431 Minestic, Lake of the Islands, erroneously Lake of the Woods 428 Mink, etc., calls for 397 Mirage, or light refraction 309 Mississaga River 303 Mississippi River 12 and note, 20 note, 21 note Mitchell's Map 4 and note, 5, 9 and note, 10, 16-18 note, 32, 73, 80 and note, 83, 84 and note 86-90, 96, 101, 106 and note, 112 note, 113 and note, 121, 332, 398 Mitchell, John 9 note, 199 note Mitchell, White 146 Mohawk River 335, 375 Mole cricket 347 Monroe, James 19 note, 21, 26 note, 27 and note, 28, 30, 36, 38, 41, 49 note, 80, 125, 160 and note, 336 note Monroe's Tavern 186 Mont, de, M. 18 Montagne, Lac a la 75, 76, 406, 408 Montezuma Flats 375 Montgomery Place, Barrytown 34 note, 37 note, 121 note Montreal, Canada 82 and note, 85, 1 36, 143, 148, 149, 170, 181, 216, 307, 332, 425 Montreal Island 179 Montreal Island, in Lake Superior 458 Montreal River, Lake Superior 458 Montresor, Fanny 149 note Moore, D. R. 69 note Moore Factory, Hudson's Bay 384 Moore, John Bassett 4, 9 note, 10 Moore's Coffee House, Kingston 212 Moose Factory, Hudson's Bay 392, 396, 452 Moose Island, Maine 12 note, 13 note Moose Lake 407, 408, 464 Morance, Mr. 339, 341-343 Morris, Gouverneur 25 note Morristown, New Jersey 157 Morristown, New York 169, 194, 198 Morts, Lac des 438, 464 INDEX 481 Morts, Portage des 438, 463 Moss, or Strontian Island 329, 330, 332, 336, 364, 377, 461 Moulson, Mr. 179 Mount Clements 340 Mountain, The, on Dog River 449 Mountain Falls, see also Dog River Falls 449> 464 Mountain Portage, on the Dog River 447, 448, 464 Moy, on the Detroit River 336, 338, 354, 357 Muddy Lake 67, 102, 120, 380, 406, 408, 409 Muddy Portage 464 Mulligan, William of New York 332 Mulo, Des Isle, or Haystack Island 385 Muskrat Portage, see Rat Portage Mutton, Isle aux 404 Nahant 389 Nama, The, on Lake Superior 458 Napoleon 1 9, 20 note Navy Island 60, 221, 222 Necturus 345 note, 352 Neebish Islands 69 note, 94 Neebish Rapids, or Channels 57 note, 61, 62, 64, 66, 67 and note, 69 note, 85, 94, 102, in note, 120, 289, 290 Nelson, Mr. 417-419 Nemecan, Lake 77, 93, 101, 107 note, 122 note, 419, 420, 422, 425, 436, 463 Nemecan Lake Portage 420, 464 Nemecan River 420, 421, 436, 464 Nesgertoha, or Nut Islands 1 7 1 Netherlands, The King of 31 note, 32 and note, 33 Nettleton, Mr. 187 Newark, near Niagara 164, 167, 228, 243 Newbold, Mrs. 248 New Brunswick 14, 30, 117, 122 New Burgh, New York 368 New Hartford, New York 255 New Orleans 19 note New York City 109, 332, 335, 368, 374, 462 New Historical Society 4, 5, 16 Niagara 10 note, 162, 165, 167-169, 195, 200, 216, 332, 335 Niagara, bridge to Iris Island 222, 223 Niagara Falls 60, 164-168, 199,219-227, 229, 243-246, 267, 335, 374, 376, 448 Niagara, Fort 164, 167, 168, 218, 224, 228, 243, 274 Niagara, Horseshoe Falls 60 Niagara River 60, 164, 346, 388 Nicholas Point, Lake Ontario 252 Nicoll, Mr. 171 Nipigon River 96 and note, 396 North Channel 341, 342, 344, 349, 378 North Lake 410 note North men, The 401, 416 Northwest Company, The 20 note, 22 and note, 94, 136 note, 180, 287, 303, 308 and note, 388, 401, 406, 422 and note, 424, 449 Northwest Territory 70, 71 Norton, Miss 258 Nova Scotia 4, n, 13, 30, 31, 84 note, 116 Nun's Island, near Montreal 179 Nut Island 60, 171 Ogden, Governor Aaron 230 note, 231, 238 Ogden, Abraham 157 note, 230 note Ogden, Judge David A. 40 and note, 157 note, 159 and note, 160, 170, 174, 177, 178, 182, 192, 210, 218, 229, 230 and note, 231, 234, 242 Ogden, Gouverneur 159 note, 170, 176, 182 Ogden, Robert 230 note Ogden, Thomas Ludlow 159 note, 192 note, 230 and note, 231 Ogden's Island 157, 174, 176 Ogdensburgh 147, 148, 157, 160, 162, 169, 170, 176, 187, 194, 197, 198, 206, 218 Ogilvie, Noel J. 128 note Ogilvy, John 36 and note, 37 note, 38, 44, 53 note, 135 and note, 138, 140, 141, i53> i59» l6l > l62 > I7i-i79> 182-185, 187-189, 192, 193, 195, 198, 208, 210, 211, 219, 221, 261, 266 note, 293, 330, 345 Ohio River 10 note, 332 Old Ship, or Middle or Walpole Channel or St. Clair River 60, 341, 345, 348, 349» 369 Oliandiere Fall, in Lac la Pluie 103 Oliver, Mr. of Baltimore 145 Olmstead, Mr. 166 Onahata, an Oneida Chief 152 Oneida Castle 255 Onondaga Salt Works 163 Ontario County 253 482 INDEX Ontario, Lake II, 24, 26 and note, 27, 28, 48 note, 49, 52, 159 note, 165, 169, 183, 184, 199, 216 Ontario, meaning of 251 Oregon 125-127 Osceola, Chief of the Cherokees 218 note Osnabruck 155-157, 162 Oswald, Sir Richard 4 Oswego 163, 169, 332 Otter Portage 409 Otter Rock, Otter's Head, Lake Superior 383> 393> 454 Ottonwa, Ottawa, River 136, 181 Outard, Lac des, and Portage 406, 407 Ovid, Village 250 Owen, Commodore 169, 225 Pache, Isle a la 60 Pacific Ocean 13, 124, 127 Packenham, Richard 127 Paduca River 216 Pallisadoes, of the Hudson 385, 399 Palmer's 243 Palmerston, Lord 5 and note, 117, 118, 121 note, 126 Palmyra, New York 252 Paresseux Rapid 448 Parish, Captain 229-231 Parish, G. 160, 169, 170, 187, 203 Partridge Falls 406, 407 Passamaquoddy 10 and note, 12 and note, 1 3 and note, 1 8 note Patch, Joshua, a boatman 336 Pate, Isle 1 1 note, 70 note, 93 and note, 112 note, 399, 444, 449 Paulding, Mrs. 227, 228 Pavillion Hotel, Saratoga 260 Payne, William E. 88, 203, 261 and note Payne, Mrs. William E. 203, 261 and note Payne ville 377 Pays Plat, on Lake Superior 396, 397, 45 !> 452 Peace, Point 138 note, 142 Peake Island 395, 452 Peak, Peake, Pic, River 96 and note, 383> 394, 395, 452, 455 Pearl River 130 Peel, Sir Robert 4, 5 and note, 1 2 1 note Peion, Isle de 136 Pell, Colonel 375 Pembina, Minnesota 123, 179 note Pendulum Clock 142 Penetanguishene, Penatonquashine, Pene- tanqueshin 338 and note, 372 Penobscot, Maine 116 Pente, a la, Portage Falls and Rapid 463 Pente, River La 439, 464 Perdrix Portage, of Pigeon River 464 Perkins, Mr. 155, 159, 161, 193 Perry, Commodore 287 note, 364 Personnel, The American 189, 282, 336, 368 Peter, a St. Regis Indian 146, 153 Phelipeaux, Isle 9, 10 note, 64 and note, 65, 69, 70 note, 84, 93 and note, 99, 112 and note, 398 Phelps, Mr. 250 Phelps & Gorham, at Canandaigua 250 Phillips, Governor 249 Pic, see Peake Pickawillany 332 Pickering, Col. Timothy 230 and note Pierce, Captain 287 Pierpont, Hezekiah Beers 208 and note Pierre Calamie, River 384, 385, 396 Pigeon Bay 12 note, 70 Pigeon Point 403 note Pigeon River 22 note, 63 and note, 64 note, 71, 75, 76, 78, 80 note, 81 and note, 82, 83, 85, 86, 89 note, 91 and note, 92, 98 note, 99, 100 note, 101, 106 and note, 107 and note, 108, 11 3-1 15 note, 121, 122 note, 396, 398, 403, 406 Pigeon River Rapids 464 Pin Portage 410, 462 Pine, le, a boatman 460 Pnie Lake 439, 464 Pine Rapid 439, 462, 463 Pinckney, Mr. 21 Pistols 459 Pitcairn, Mr. 170 Pittsfield, Massachusetts 180 Plast Island 179 Plattsburgh, New York 135, 138 Pleasonton, S. 261 and note, 262 Plein River, The 268 PPluie, Fort, see Fort on l'Pluie River Pluie, Lac a la or Rainy Lake 22 note, 70 and note, 71, 77-79, 103, 107 note, 112 and note, 122 note, 130, 420, 421, 425, 435, 43 6 > 464 l'Pluie River, or Rainy River 412, 413, 422, 424-426, 428, 43 1-434, 463, 464 Point au Chapeau 386, 404 INDEX 483 Point aux Chenes 60 Point aux Chien 369, 378 Point Pelee, or aux Piayes 359 and note Point Pellet, or aux Piayes, Island 345, 359-364 Point aux Piayes, or Pelee 359 and note Point aux Pins 388 Point aux Tantres 386 Point aux Toutres 403, 404 Point aux Trembles 344, 346 Point Ebano 373 Point Iroquois, see Iroquois, Point Point Pele 352 Pole, or l'Perche Portage 409 Politica, Pierre de 125 Polk, James K. 127 Pollard, an Indian 232, 233, 240 Polly, Captain 154, 173 Pomainville, Jean Baptiste 22 note, 305, 353. 354, 357, 381 Pomeroy's 1 66 Pomeville, see Pomainville Pontiac, on Huron River 340, 342 Pontiac, an Indian Chief 274 Poor, Terah 176, 183, 195, 198 Porcupine 438 Pork Eaters, The 401 Portaganasing, an Indian village 311, 3^3, 319 Portage Collar 405 Portage Road, near Niagara 165 Portages Baril 439, 463 Bois Blanc, Great Portage 413 Bois Blanc, Little Portage 414, 415 Bottle Portage 416 Cariboo Rapids and Portage 406, 407 Cedar 413 Cherry Portages, Great and Little 407, 408, 464 Chien 443, 444, 446, 448, 463, 464 Chien, Petit Portage du 446, 463 la Croix Lake 488, 420, 436, 464 Crooked Lake Rock Portage Falls 414, 462 Dog River, see Chien ficarte 447, 464 Francoise 438, 464 Grand 63 and note, 68 note, 70-73, 75, 77, 79, 81, 82 note, 83, 88-90, 101, 106 and note, 115 note, 121, 403-406, 408, 409, 430, 449, 462 and note, 464 Great Carrying-place, Grand Portage 22 note Great Pine 41 1 Great Tree 414, 462 Grosse Roche 437 Height of Land 410, 442 de File Portage in Riviere Malin 436 Island Portage on the Dog River 447 Island Portage in Lake of the Woods 427, 434 ITsle, Portage de, in the Dog River 463 Knife, or Knifestone 447, 463 Knife Stone Lake 413, 462 Little Rock 412 McKay 437 Milieu 441, 463 Morts 438, 463 Mountain Portage, on the Dog River 447, 448, 464 Muddy 464 Muskrat, see Rat Nemecan Lake 420, 464 Outard, Lac des, and Portage 406, 407 Perdrix, Portage of Pigeon River 464 Pin 410, 462 Pole, or l'Perche 409 Portage Road, near Niagara 165 Prairie 441-443 Rat 78, 93, 425-430, 432, 464 Rock Portage of Crooked Lake 414, 462 Savanne 441, 463 Shortened Portage, on the Dog River 447 Third Portage, on Riviere Malin 437 Two Rivers 437, 463 Wattap 406, 408 White Wood Portage and Falls, Great and Little 462 Woods, Point of 414, 462 Porter, Judge Augustus 164 and note, 165, 221, 223, 224, 226, 228, 244, 246 Porter, Mrs. Augustus 227, 228 Porter, Augustus S. son of General P. B. Porter 168 and note Porter, Joshua 1 64 note Porter, General Peter B. 35, 36 and note, 37 note, 38 and note, 39, 40 and note, 45, 46 note, 47, 49 note, 53 note, 56, 58 note, 61 and note, 62 and note, 63, 64 note, 66, 69 note, 73, 81, 84, 85, 4 8 4 INDEX Porter, General Peter B. (contd.) 88, 89 and note, 96 note, 97, 104-107, 1 09, 1 1 o and note, 1 1 1 and note, 1 1 2 and note, 113, 114, 118 note, 121, 123 note, 130, 135 and note, 138, 139, 141, 145, 148, 149, 152-154, 159 and note, 160-162, 165-167, 172, 173, 176, 178, 182, 183, 185 and note, 186-189, I 9 I " 196, 200-202, 205, 213, 215, 219, 221, 222, 224, 227, 228, 234, 235, 247-249, 261, 266 note, 267, 271, 272, 275, 280, 288, 312, 324, 326, 330, 331, 373, 375 and note, 435, 450, 461 note Porter, Mrs. Peter B. 2 1 9, 22 1 , 229, 230, 243> 245, 247, 249, 330 Porter, Mr. of Utica 2 1 5 Portland, on Lake Erie 367 Portlock, Captain 279 Powell, Chief Justice 161 Pownall, John 9 and note F Prairie, Lake 412 1' Prairie, Portage 412 Prairie du Chien, see Chien, Prairie du 37i Pratt's ferry 242 Prescott Village 162, 194, 204 Preservative, for animals' skins 358 note Presque Isle, in Lake Huron 285 Presque Isle, in the St. Lawrence 60 Priarie, La, near Montreal 136, 181 Priarie, Lac a la 76 and note, 441, 442, 464 Priarie, Portage la 441-443, 462-464 Prince Edward's Island 308 note Prince's Nurseries 254 Prior, Mr. 320 Prossie, and Antwerp 160 Proteus Anguinus, Mud Puppy, Nectu- rus 345 and note, 352 Puans, Baie des 10 note Pulteney Estate 250 Pulteneyville 251, 252 Put in Bay 360, 363, 364, 366, 367 Put in Bay Island 269, 328, 330, 363, 3^5* 461 Quaife, Dr. M. M. of Detroit 343 note Quebec 10 note, 143, 174 Queenstown, near Niagara 1 64, 1 67, 243 Quenette, Count 170 Quincy, Massachusettes 89 Rabbit Island 399, 400, 450 Raccoon, a sloop of war 22 Racket River 144, 147, 150, 192 Rainy Lake, see Lac la Pluie 93, no, in note, 118 note, 122 note, 130 Rainy River, FPluie River 93, no Raisins, Isle of 137 Raisin River 137, 378 Ramsay, George, Earl of Dalhousie 243 and note Randolph, Mr. 23 Range, Mesabi Iron 462 Rankin, Mr. 350 Rapide Plat 60, 175, 182 Rapid River 426, 432, 433 Rat, du, Portage 78, 93, 425-430, 432, 464 Rattlesnakes, black Missisauga 271, 346, 355 Rattlesnake Island 364 Rattlesnake oil 360. 362 Rattlesnake, yellow 346, 360 Raymond, Judge 1 77 Red Jacket, a Seneca Indian 230, 233, 234, 239, 242, 326-328 Red-Line Maps, The 3, 6, 7, 11, 83 note, 106 note English or King's 3 note, 90, 121 and note Franklin's 3 Jay's 3 note, 4, 5 Peel's 3 note, 4 Sparks' 4, 6, 89, 119 and note Steuben's 3 note, 5, n 9 and note Red River 103-105, 179, 308 note, 383, 394, 424, 432 Reed, Captain 354, 358 Remo, Le Grand, the Great Eddy 157 Rentup, Capt. William, an Indian 240 Repeating Circle, The 177, 193 Riband Fall, Niagara 245 Rice, wild 422, 434 Richards, Judge Alexander 41 and note, 157 Richmond, The Duke of 212, 243 Ridant, Rideau, Lake 194 Ridant, Rideau, River 194 Ridge Road 373, 376 Ridge way Village 374 Riggs, Miss, of New York 255 Rittenhouse, David 142, 149 Roberson, Jim, an Indian 240 Roberts, Captain 372 Robertson, Miss 269 Rochester, New York 163, 374-376 Roche Rapid 407 Roche Rouge, in Lake of the Woods 427, 43i INDEX 485 Rock Portage, of Crooked Lake 414, 462 Rocky Mountains 13, 19, 21, 23, 29 and note, 123 and note, 124 and note, 125 note, 126, 127 and note, 444, 445 note Rogers, Rodgers, Captain 269, 279, 280, 372 Rollins, Philip Ashton 7 note, 287 note Root-Bryce Treaty 128 note Root's Tavern, Granville 180 Rose, Lac a la 76, 78, 409 note, 464 Rose Rapid, in the Dog River 463 Rossie 203 Rough, Captain 376 Round Island 371 Rouse's Point 122, 177 note Roux's Island 207 Rowe's Island 60 Roy, Mr. 424,431,435 Royal, Isle 9, 1 1, 64, 65, 69, 80, 81 note, 83, 84, 93-95, 99, 102, 107 note, 108, 112 and note, 113 note, 120, 121 and note, 385, 398 Rum, sales of 445 Rush-Bagot Treaty 23, 28, 56, 125, 131, 213 note Rush, Richard 37 note, 38 and note, 39 and note, 126, 127, 139 note Russel, Mr. and Mrs. 388 Russell, Andrew B., a boatman 297, 336 Russia, New York 125, 217 Sacher Portage Falls 462 Sacketts, Sackets, Harbor 162, 169, 183, 195, 202, 211-213, 217, 218, 243, 247 Sagana, Sagina, Bay in Lake Huron 283, and note, 323, 350, 379 Saganaga, Lake, or Lake of Bays 380, 412,417,437 Saganaga River 412, 417 Saguina Bay, in Lake Huron, see Sagana Sailing, of canoes 459 St. Andrews 14 and note, 30 St. Anne, or Cariboef, Island 93 St. Annes, Montreal 181 St. Clair Creek 325 St. Clair, Lake 44, 45, 48, 60, 277, 281, 282, 290, 321, 323, 330, 337, 338, 340- 345, 347, 349-351, 353, 354, 4«7 St. Clair River, or Old Ship Channel 44 note, 45, 48, 60, 221, 228, 281-283, 286, 324-327, 330, 340, 34i, 343-345, 349" 35i, 353, 35 6 , 357, 3^9, 372, 378, 388, 461 St. Croix River 9, 10 and note, 12-15 and note, 17, 18 and note, 19, 30, 31, 84 note, 1 1 6 St. Francis Lake 137, 178, 181 St. George's, or Sugar Island 66 and note, 67 and note, 68 and note, 69, 93, 94, 99, 102, 1 09- 1 1 1 note, 120 and note St. Helena 20 note, 1 36, 287 St. Johns 1 79-181 St. John's River 4, 10 note, 18, 84 note, 116, 122 St. Joseph, Isle 44, 61, 68, 102, 120, 289- 291,294, 317, 3 1 8, 380 St. Lawrence River 7, 11, 12, 45 and note, 47 and note, 52, 59, 76, 1 28 note, 150, 152, 153, 159 note, 191, 411 St. Louis, Lake 179 St. Louis River 69 note, 70 note, 72, 82 note, 86, 91 note, 94-97, 99, 103, 107- 109, 114, 115 note, 121, 130, 462 note St. Marie River, or St. Mary's River 44, 62 and note, 67 and note, 78, 82, 85, 86, 93, 97, 99, I02 , 1 10, 1 1 1, 120, 288, 289, 37o, 37i, 388, 459, 460 St. Mary's Island 348 St. Petersburgh, Russia 125 St. Regis, New York 7, 1 2, 36, 37, 47, 49, 57, 59, 61, 66, 115, 116, 131, 135, 137 and note, 139, 141, 142, 144, 153, 161, 171, 175, 176, 178, 181, 184-188, 204 St. Regis, Grand Isle de 138, 142, 144, 146, 148, 153 St. Regis, Petit Isle 142, 153, 178 St. Regis River 144, 145, 148, 152 St. Tammany's Island 68 and note, 102, 120 Sais-a-gin-e-gaw Lake, or Saisaginaga Lake 76, 77, 107 note Sais qui c Gard Portage 462 Salaries and aiiowances 189, 336 Salmon River 142, 151 Salt works, at Dunkirk 257 Sand Islands 346, 348 Sand Town 166 Sands, Mr. and Mrs. 249 Sandusky 231, 268-272, 332, 336, 368, 372, 373, 377 Sandwich 275, 356, 357 Sandy Hill, New York 1 35 San Juan Island 1 28 Sans Souci Hotel, at Balston Spa 257- 261 Saratoga 258-260 Satterlee, Dr. Richard Sherwood 377 and note 4 86 INDEX Satterlee, Major William 377 note Sault St. Mary 44, 69 note, 102, 272, 275, 288-290, 292, 293, 318, 319, 370, 371, 380-382, 386, 388-390, 393, 424, 449> 455. 459. 460, 465 Sauve, Joseph 379 Savanne Lake 464 Savanne, Portage la 441, 463 Savannah, or Broad, River, Riviere de la Savanne 93, 440, 441, 464 Sa-wa-tis-ga-no-wa-te-se, Jacob, a St. Regis Indian 146, 153 Say brook, Connecticut 367 Schenectady, New York 215, 216, 256, 266, 335, 375, 461 Schlosser's Tavern 164, 165, 221, 226 Schoodiac, Scoudiac, Schoodic, River 13 and note, 14 and note, 18 note, 19 Schoolcraft, Mr. 440 Schuyler, Mrs. Philip and son, of Rhine- beck 267 Scioux, Baie des 10 note Scott, Winfield, General 117, 162 and note Searl's Tavern, Maiden 273 Seed Fall 413 note Selkirk, Earl of, Thomas Douglas 104, 307, 308 and note, 348, 401, 448 Seneca, grass plate 318 Seneca Lake 214, 250, 253 Seneca oil 301 Seneca, White, an Indian 240 Sennepee River 368, 375 Severight, Mr. 370, 381, 388 Sewell, Jonathan, Chief Justice of Lower Canada 136 Sewell, Stephen 36, 135 note, 138, 159, 172, 177, 182-186, 189, 198, 199 Sextant, pocket 226 Shaw, Mr. 179, 180 Sheep Island, Isle au Mouton 60 Sheik's Island 59, 155, 161, 162 Sheik, Judge 162 Shells, Lymnea, etc. 427, 454 Shenango Village 332 Sherman, Capt. 180 Sherwood, Mr. Samuel 193, 200-202 Sherwood, Miss 201 Shortened Portage, on the Dog River 447 Simcoe's Island 212 Simpson, Mr. 145, 146 Siskile Rapid 41 1 Skeneateles Lake 254 Skeneateles, New York 250, 255, 331 Skejockatie Creek 165 Skinner's, of Albany 180,217 Skins, preservative for 358 note Slave Lake 445 and note Small Fish Lake 409 Smith, Mr., a Justice of the Peace 353 Smith, Colonel 280, 328 Smith, Sydney 119 note Smith's Hotel, Detroit 377 Smuggler's, or Dry Island 60 Socier, Joseph, a boatman 379, 460 Sodus Harbor 163, 169, 251, 252, 376 Solomon, Mr. and children 461 Solomon, Mrs. 318, 321 South Fowl Lake 406 note South Lake 409 note Southwest Company, The 268 Sparks, Jared 3, 4 Sparks' Map 120 note Spencer, Judge James Bradley 151 and note Spenser, Miss 278 Spider's web, use of 142 Spring Wells 353 Squaw Island, Lake Erie 229 Squirrel Island 60 Stannard, Alexander, a boatman 336 Stannard, Charles, a boatman 362, 368 Stannard, Daniel, a boatman 368 Stanton, Major Henry 279, 377 and note Stevens, Miss 249 Stevenson, Alexander 37, 138 note, 183, 211, 280, 282, 290, 293, 294, 296, 297, 299> 3°°-3 o6 > 3 9-3 ! 5» 3*8, 3*9* 32 1, 323, 325, 328, 345, 350-352, 354, 356- 358, 360, 361, 364, 366 Stewart or Stuart, Mr. Agent at Fort William 386, 401, 402, 418, 449, 456 Stockton, Major 230, 278-281 Stockwell's Point 363, 364, 366 Stone, Mr. 378 Stone, Colonel 207 Stoneburner's Tavern 161, 182, 183 Stony Island 52-54, 57, 58, 60, 69 note, 218, 368 note Stony Island, in Lake Ontario 60 Stony Mountains, see Rocky Mountains 21, 28, 29 Stromness Island 344-346, 353 Strong, Ira 181 Strontian, a mineral 280, 328, 329, 364 Strontian Island, see Moss Island INDEX 487 Stuart, Andrew 8 and note Stuart, Captain, of Maiden 350, 356, 366, 367 Stuart, J. B. 247, 249 Stuart, Robert 7 note, 287 and note, 3 6 9-373> 377» 379. 434, 461 Sturgeon Lake 77, 93, 412, 417, 437, 438, 464 Sturgeon, Columbia River 444, 445 Sturgeon Oil 433 Sucker Portage 413 Sugar, or St. George's Island 52-54, 57, 58, 60, 67-69 note, 93, 102, no, in, 120, 368 note Sugar Rapids 102 Sullivan, Governor of Massachusetts 1 1 6 Sullivan, J. A. 15,16 and note Sulphur, springs, near Geneva 252, 253 Sulphur, spring, near Niagara 224 Superior, Lake 1 1 note, 22 note, 24, 44, 45 note, 48, 49, 61, 64, 65, 67 note, 69, 70 and note, 71, 74-81 and note, 82, 83, 85, 86, 92 note, 93, 95, 99, 102, 103 note, 107 note, 108, 110, in and note, 112, 120, 122 and note, 325, 330, 380- 3 fi 2, 385, 395, 397, 4*7, 43°, 438, 444, 445, 449, 452, 455, 463-465 Swamp Lake 412 note Swans, wild 327 Table Rock, at Niagara Falls 166, 167, 222, 243, 267 Talbot, Port 367 Talleyrand, Charles M. de 19 note, 20 note Tanner, John 417, 423 and note, 424, 434 Temperatures 358, 377 Tenant, Dr. 279, 354, 355 Thain, Thomas of Montreal 435, 450 Thames River 281 Thayer, Mr. 211, 212 Thepsalon Island 305, 306, 3 1 1 Thepsalon Point 308, 310 Thepsalon River 303, 305 Third Portage, on Riviere Malin 437 Thompson's warehouse at Black Rock 376 Thompson, a land owner 353 Thompson, Captain 167 Thompson, David 36, 66 note, 95, 140 and note, 141 note, 150, 183, 188, 189, 192, 193, 198, 199, 203, 210, 211, 289- 29 r » 305, 306, 3 1 4, 315, 33°, 336-33 8 , 345, 356, 357, 381, 4i5, 425, 426, 428, 435, 449, 460, 462 note, 464, 465 Thompson, Chief Justice Smith 135 note, 148 and note Thompson Island 344, 345 Thorn, Mr. 325 Thorpe, Captain 256 Thousand Islands, The 169, 199, 277 note, 290 Three Rivers 139 Thunder Bay, in Lake Huron 283, 285 Thunder Bay, in Lake Superior 459 Thunder Bay Islands 283, 284, 369 Thunder Peak, in Lake Superior 459 Tiarks, Johan Ludwig 92 and note, 95, 171 and note, 172, 173, 175, 177, 181, 184, 185 Tibbitts, George, of Troy 1 94 and note Ticonderoga, New York 135 Tonawanda Creek 165 Tonnere, Cape 385, 386, 398-400, 444, 449, 450 Tonnere Bay 403 Toronto, Baie de 10 note Tousant's Island 182, 183 Tower, Destroy, an Indian 240 Treaty of Ghent 7 and note, 9, 19, 21 note, 22 note, 23 note, 24 note, 25 and note, 30-32 note, 34, 37, 40 note, 47, 57-59, 61, 63, 66, 67, 69, 74, 80, 84, 88, 89, 93, 97, 102, 104, in and note, 120, I2 3, 159 note, 171 note, 261, 263 note, 336 note Treaty of 1 783 65, 7 1 , 73, 82, 83, 88, 94, 108, 112, 116 Treaty of 1846 124, 127 and note, 128 note Treaty of 1908 127 note Treaty Point 138 and note Trenton, New York 214, 217 Tripe du roche 305, 446 Trotter and Douglas, of Albany 330 Troughton, Mr. 177 and note Troup, Colonel Robert 250 and note Troupville 252 Troupville Bay 163 Troy, New York 1 35, 2 1 7, 26 1 , 33 1 , 335, 374, 375, 462 Troy Lyceum, The 332 Tucker, Mr. 194, 340 Tumpline, see Portage Collar Turkey Buzzards 432 Turkey Island, see Fighting Island 488 INDEX Turner, Mr. of Louisville, Kentucky 359 Turtle Channel 344 Tuyl, Baron de 125 Two Rivers Portage 437, 463 Tyler, President John 119 Utica, New York 48, 57, 214, 217, 256, 266, 331, 374, 375,461 Utrecht, Treaty of 21 note Vaillencourt, Henry 379, 380 Van Buren, Martin 117 and note, 148 and note Vancouver's Island 124, 128 and note Van Ness, Cornelius Peter 1 84 and note, 185, 186 Van Wagenen, James H. 128 note Varick, Abraham 255, 256, 375 Varnum, Mr. 268 Vassairt, Andrew 381 Vaudreuil, Village 181 Vaudreuil, Governor Pierre Francois de Rigaud, Marquis de 168, 181 and note Vaughan, Sir C. R. 33 and note Venice, near Sandusky 270 Verendery, Mr. 277 Vergennes, Count 3, 4 Vermellia, Little, Lake, Vermillion Lake 107 note, 122 note, 418-420, 436, 464 Vessels The Barge 450, 451, 454, 455 The Beaver, of Presque Isle, schooner 326 The Black Jack 303, 304, 309, 310, 3i4 5 338, 339, 344, 353, 359 Canoes, how sailed 459 Canoe Paddles 416 Canoe, stitching and gumming. See Watap and Gum The Chancellor Livingston, steamboat 1 35, 2 1 5, 2 1 7, 266, 33 1 , 335, 368, 374, 375, 462 The Charlotte, steamboat 195, 212 The Confiance, schooner 26 note, 1 35, 289, 298, 305, 306, 313, 316, 321-323, 338 The Decatur, schooner 325, 326 Durham, a boat 181 The Eagle 135 The Elizabeth, schooner of Ashtabula 272, 273 The Frontignac, steamboat 212, 243 The Hannah, schooner 366, 367 The General Jackson, schooner 283, 288 The Ghent, schooner 247-249 The Gov'r Gore, schooner 312, 351 The Hope, schooner 312, 318 The Huron, schooner 283, 326 The Huron, a war vessel 26 note The Jefferson 2 1 3 The Lady of the Lake, The Lady, sail- boat 1 83, 2 1 8, 286, 297, 300,1303, 304, 3° 6 , 309, 3io, 314, 328, 337, 344, 348, 353, 359, 362, 363 The Lake Serpent, schooner 351 The Linnet, schooner 135 Macinac Canoes 379, 386, 388, 403, 450, 460 The Michigan, schooner 371,376-378 Montreal Canoes 449 The Montreal, a war vessel 26 note The Myron Holly, canal boat 375 The Netley, schooner 26 note The Newark 26 note North Canoes 386,401,403,449,450 The Ontario, a man of war 23 The Ontario, steamboat 162, 195, 200, 206, 218 The Paragon Rorback, steamboat 180, 331 Petty augres 285 and note The Phoenix, steamboat 180, 181 The Planet, sloop 135 The Porcupine, schooner 366 The Pret-a-Boyre, canoe 307 The Quints, steamboat 212 The Recovery, schooner 381, 400 The Red Jacket, schooner 279, 280- 282, 284, 286-290, 293, 294, 296-306, 3°8, 309, 3 1 1> 3*4, 3 l6 , 3 l8 , 3*9, 323, 368 The Richmond, steamboat 180, 261 The Saratoga, a war vessel 135 The Sauk, a war vessel 26 note The Star, a war vessel 26 note The Superior, steamboat 346, 372, 373, 376 The Superior, schooner 461 The Surprise, schooner 26 note The Sylph, sailboat 359-363, 366, 367 The Tecumseh, a war vessel 26 note The Ticonderoga, a war vessel 135 The Tiger, schooner 377, 461 Verons of a canoe frame 409 The Walk in the Water, steamboat 219, 220, 228, 247, 267, 277, 280, 336 INDEX 489 Vessels (contd.) Watap, for stitching bark canoes 401 The Wellington, Brigg 219, 351, 381 Vincent, Cape 204, 210 Vondevelden and Charland 1 1 6 Waddington, or Hamilton Village 182 Wadsworth, James, of Gennesee 2 1 4 and note Walker, Master of the Red Jacket 368, 369 Wallace, Mr. 151, 243 Wallace's Tavern at Chippewa 243 Walpole, or Old ship Channel 345, 348 War of 181 2 21 Warner, Joseph, a boatman 336 Warren, Mr. of Troy 230 Watap 401 W T aterford, New York 135 Waterloo, New York 254 Waterloo, near Niagara 166 Watertown, New York 213, 214, 217, 218 Wattap Portage 406, 408 Wayne, Miss 258 Webb, Lieut. 323, 324, 326 Webster, Daniel 4, 5, 32, 68, 89, 90, 106 note, 116, 118, 119 and note, 120, 121, 123, 126 Webster-Ashburton Treaty 68 note, 72 note, 81 and note, 90, 107 note, in note, 115, 120, 121 and note, 122, 177 note Weis, Mr. 226 Welch, Ned. a boatman 336 Welles, William 25 note Wellesley, Marquis of 25 Wellington, Duke of 22 note, 118 Wells, Dr. of Troy 332 Wells' Island 60, 203-210 Western Sister Island, in Lake Erie 60, 365 West Point, New York 130, 150, 368 Whistler, George Washington 73, 113 note, 130, 368 and note, 370, 375, 432, 436, 440, 442, 447-45°> 454, 458, 460, 461 Whistler, James Abbott McNeill 130, 131, 368 note Whistler, John 368 note Whistler, Major William 461 and note White, Captain 326 White earth, used as paint 433 Whitefish Lake 448 Whitefish Point 457, 458 Whitehall, New York 180, 181 Whitesboro, New York 255, 375 Whiting, Captain Henry 220 and note, 280, 378 White River 456 White Wood Lake 77 White Wood Portage and Fall, Great and Little 462 Whitney, Mr. 245 Whitney's Tavern 221, 225, 227, 244, 335 Wilkinson, General 158 William, Fort 72, 75, 92 note, 375 note, 380, 381, 383, 385, 393, 399, 400, 404, 405, 417, 418, 430, 435, 446, 449, 450, 456, 460, 464 Williams, Elisha 254 and note Williams, Eunice, dau. of Rev. John 1 45 note Williams, John, of Deerfield 144 and note Williamsburgh 158, 170, 171 Wilson, Mr. 156-158 Wind Mill Point, in the Detroit River 276, 337 Window Curtain Fall 416, 462 Wine-de-go Lake, see Man-eaters Lake Winnet, Major 288, 321, 370, 371 Winnipeg, Lake 307, 394, 429 Winnepec, Winnepeg, Winnipeg, River 78 and note, 79 note, 425, 429, 430 Winebago Lake 93 Withington, General 167 Wood, Mr. 142, 161, 162 Woodbury, Mr. of Sacket's Harbor 2 1 3 Wooden Horse Rapid and Fall 41 1, 462 Woods, Lake of the 7, 9, 12 and note, 13, 19, 21 and note, 23, 28, 29 and note, 34, 47, 49, 65, 69 and note, 70 and note, 71-73 and note, 74, 75, 77-80, 82, 83, 85, 88, 92 note, 93-96, 98 note, 99, 103- 105, 107 note, 108, no, 112, 113, 115, 122 note, 123 and note, 124 and note, i3*» 375, 3 8 6, 400, 418, 422, 425-430, 432, 461 note, 462 and note, 463, 464 Woods, Point of, Portage 414, 462 Wool, Colonel John Ellis 266 and note, 267, 346, 378 Woolsey, Commodore Melancthon Tyler 210 and note Worth, Major 247 Wright's Tavern 169, 197 490 INDEX Wybault, Mr. 189 453 XY Company 136 note Young's Town, near Niagara 168, 218, Yeo's Island 198, 204, 205 219 York Village 212 Zantringer, Captain 377 York Factory, of Hudson's Bay Company Zenith Sector 142, 146-148, 177 note This book was composed throughout in monotype Baskerville, a type face cut from the original designed by John Baskerville in the middle of the 18th century. One thousand copies have been printed on Strathmore All-Rag Book paper on a hand-feed platen press by Robert L. Cheney in The Gopher Hole. UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS-URBANA 327 73037U C002 THE UNFORTIFIED BOUNDARY NY