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REMOTE STORAGE 
 
 THE 
 
 JHoirem imiscUnte 
 
 OR 
 
 COMPRISING 
 
 NEARLY ONE THOUSAND RECEIPTS 
 
 • I 
 
 FOR THE ECONOMIC AND JUDICIOUS 
 
 PREPARATION OF EVERY MEAL OF THE DAY, 
 
 AND THOSE FOR 
 
 THE NURSERY AND SICK ROOM; 
 
 WITH MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT 
 IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS. I 
 
 BY 
 
 ALEXIS SOYER, 
 
 9 9 * 
 
 AUTHOR OF “THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR.” 
 
 THIRTY SECOND THOUSAND. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS 5 HALL COURT. 
 
 1856. 
 
The Author of the Gastronomic Regenerator, 
 anxious to find a Companion for his first and only Son, 
 who has enjoyed an uninterrupted success from his birth, 
 has, after five months of extensive research, met with one 
 in' the Modern Menage re {Housewife), who, he trusts, 
 will be deemed equally deserving of praise as her Mate, 
 being confident that they both will live in most perfect 
 harmony in every family where their services may be 
 required. 
 
TO 
 
 Begs to introduce herself, and hopes she may prove 
 
 A Useful Adviser. 
 

64 I, S' 
 
 So °\ vw 
 
 THE AUTHOR’S PREFACE. 
 
 Having, perhaps very ungallantly and ungratefully, nearly 
 ruined my celebrated heroine, Hortense, and obliged her to 
 give up her cheerful villa at St. John’s Wood, where for nearly 
 seven years she so highly enjoyed the pleasures of an easy life, 
 and caused her to reside in a small, though neat little cottage, 
 and be contented with rural simplicity,—will probably appear 
 a very great calamity, and a source of continual unhappiness ; 
 but on perusal of the following letters, exchanged between her 
 and her inseparable friend, Eloise, my readers will perceive 
 that, contrary to their expectation, she is still happy and quite in 
 her element; and more likely from her humble cottage to benefit 
 the lower class, by teaching them the results of her culinary 
 study, of which she gives us so fair a sample in this edition; 
 and probably at the end of the year 1853, she may be able to 
 give the world a very cheap work for the benefit of that class, 
 who really require the most guidance with regard to the eco¬ 
 nomical management of plain domestic cookery. And no 
 doubt, by the addition of a small piece of land to her property, 
 she will be able to give advice to small farmers and the pea¬ 
 santry, on the art of rearing poultry, keeping a cow, feeding and 
 curing of pigs, making of butter and cheese, management of a 
 kitchen garden, 8sc.; where, I am certain, knowing her economi¬ 
 cal disposition, she will grow almost everything useful, and 
 convert her picturesque habitation into a model farm-house in 
 miniature. 
 
 Ilichmond, December 20th, 1852. 
 
Camelia Cottage , Hugly, 
 January , 1853 . 
 
 Dearest Eloise,— 
 
 Excellent friend, it was with extreme grati¬ 
 fication that I received your last note respecting 
 another edition of the Modern Housewife, which 
 will complete the thirtieth thousand book of our 
 domestic work. 
 
 Very little did we think, two or three years ago, 
 while corresponding together on our domestic affairs 
 and homely tribulations, that our culinary gossip 
 would meet with such enthusiastic reception by 
 the public at large; however, we cannot but be 
 astonished, and remain grateful. 
 
 I beg to say that I am of the opinion of 
 the Publishers, namely, that of introducing several 
 homely receipts, and of illustrating the work, 
 thereby giving it a type of embellishment and 
 luxury worthy of a Christmas present or a New 
 Year’s Gift. As these gentlemen appear, by your 
 letter, to run very short of books, I shall not 
 delay one moment writing and sending you the 
 new matter, which I would advise them to classify 
 at the end of the book, not interfering with the 
 
PREFATORY. 
 
 bulk of the work, which is stereotyped, otherwise it 
 might delay the printing. 
 
 Among other novelties, I propose to introduce 
 directions for the Carving of Poultry and Game, 
 with Engravings; followed by some Cottage Re¬ 
 ceipts for the Labouring Classes, including the 
 Physiology of Tarts, Pies, and Pie-Crust; and, in 
 closing the work, I cannot do better than add the 
 Poor Man’s Cookery Book, and the description of 
 the Great Model Soup Kitchen, erected in Lublin 
 by our friend Mr. S., in the year of the famine, 
 1847. 
 
 1 shall also send you a Tendon Separator, 
 with directions how to use it. If properly applied, 
 no more turkey will ever be deposited in a lady’s 
 lap by a nervous carver, nor cascade of gravy reach 
 over the table to soil the laced pocket-handker¬ 
 chief of a very prim lady. It possesses, also, a 
 very great merit on the point of economy; for the 
 Amphitrion who is guilty of carving game or 
 poultry badly, pays dearly for the mangling of. it. 
 (See Addenda.) 
 
 I suppose you have heard from your husband 
 that Mr. B. has obtained a situation as head 
 clerk on the Railway. Though our position, 
 dearest, is far from being so flourishing as it has 
 
PREFATORY. 
 
 been for the last ten years, I assure you we are 
 quite as happy, and more settled in mind. The 
 comforts of a little cottage have easily made me 
 forget the beautiful, but troublesome elegance of 
 Bifron’s Villa. Here we have no one to pity us, on 
 our recent and serious losses; but we enjoy health, 
 quietness, and rural felicity, 
 
 With most profound friendship, 
 
 I am, dearest, always your 
 
 Hortense. 
 
 Dear Hortense,— 
 
 Indeed you are a great woman and a profound 
 philosopher. I am charmed with the spirit and the 
 soundness of your judgment, after so many reverses 
 of fortune, caused by the too bold speculation of 
 your unfortunate but devoted husband. After all, 
 one comfort, I fear, you must miss, and one, too, of 
 daily occurrence—that is, the luxury of your table, 
 in which you used to pride yourself so much; but 
 excuse me, dearest, I perceive that I am following 
 the example of those pretended friends whom you 
 justly despise. They pity you! Useless conso¬ 
 lation, without relief. 
 
PREFATORY. 
 
 Believe me, Hortense, it is with the heart of a 
 sincere friend that Eloise admires you more than 
 ever. 
 
 Dear Eloise,— 
 
 Nothing is more gratifying to the human 
 mind than being able to recognise, among a 
 myriad of acquaintances, a real friend, one whose 
 kind heart follows you with pride, love, and respect 
 through the vicissitudes of life. In you, estimable 
 friend, I have found those extraordinary qualities 
 so rarely bestowed by Providence on human beings 
 —for example, I, by the same post, received two 
 letters yesterday, one from you, the other from Mrs. 
 Forster, the wealthy East India merchant’s wife; 
 the latter was false as yours was sincere; her head 
 and hands wrote to me, while you! your heart dic¬ 
 tated and your soul wrote. 
 
 But now to business, as my dear Mr. B. says. 
 
 You think I miss my semi-sumptuous table of 
 St. John’s Wood. It will astonish you when I say, 
 Not at all! I now keep one servant only; an in¬ 
 telligent, blooming country girl, who never smiles, 
 but always laughs; she does what is usually called 
 the hard work, and I the cooking. The little we 
 
PREFATORY. 
 
 have on our table is culinary perfection; no dish is 
 ever spoiled by being either under or over done— 
 or too highly or too little seasoned. 
 
 We have once a week a capital market at Coven¬ 
 try, which is about seven miles from our rural resi¬ 
 dence; it is my hobby to go there regularly, and 
 with my scientific knowledge of Cookery, I purchase 
 most excellent provisions at a very low price,—do 
 you know why ? Because I choose articles that are 
 not in demand; for, as I told you in our former cor¬ 
 respondence, # every one, even poor men, on Sun¬ 
 day will have a good joint of meat for his dinner, 
 and leave, as they think, the inferior pieces on the 
 hands of the butcher, who is glad to get rid of 
 them at any price. As I mean to give you receipts 
 how to use these pieces, it would be useless to 
 describe here the inimitable dishes I make out of a 
 mere nothing; you must try before believing it; but 
 everything eatable I turn to profitable and whole¬ 
 some food. Knowing how to make much of a little 
 is the first of domestic qualifications; adversity 
 gives birth to genius. 
 
 In proportion, we live as well and more comfort¬ 
 ably than we did in London, with the delightful im¬ 
 provement of possessing a much better appetite; and 
 
 # See Soyer’s Modern Housewife } p. 64. 
 
PREFATORY. 
 
 we are not annoyed with a double rap at the door r 
 just as we are sitting to our lunch or early dinner,, 
 nor favoured by the attendance of a very intelligent 
 footman, who, while you are talking to a witty 
 neighbour, removes your plate, containing the best 
 of little sweet or savoury tit-bits , for which culinary 
 science has been exhausted in order to gratify your 
 guest, instead of your servant’s palate. In fact, 
 dearest, with the small income we have, and my 
 husband’s present situation, we live, and thank 
 Heaven, we live happily. 
 
 May you and yours be for ever blest, 
 
 Hortense. 
 
 Our Pauline is charming; she is gone to spend 
 
 the autumn with her aunt in Devonshire. 
 
 * 
 
 Here are a few of my Cottage Receipts ; please 
 try them before publishing_ See Addenda (III.) 
 
Bifrons Villa, March, 1850 . 
 
 Eloise, MA CHERE AMIE,— 
 
 Six months have now elapsed since the publica¬ 
 tion of our culinary and domestic correspondence. 
 Hardly had I time to correct the numerous mistakes 
 which were in the first edition, before 15,000 copies 
 were issued from the press, and nearly all purchased 
 by the public. I am confident you will agree with 
 me, that we cannot feel and express too much grati¬ 
 tude for such extraordinary patronage. 
 
 You reproach me for being silent so long; the 
 reasons, you must be aware, have been serious illness, 
 and other family troubles, which no human being 
 can be free from; but, thanks to Providence, now 
 all is well; and to prove to you that I have not been 
 indolent, I herewith enclose a very novel, interesting, 
 and useful subject: it is a correct resume of every 
 kind of condiment, its origin, country, nutritive 
 quality, and its effects on the human frame. It has, 
 I assure you, taken some hours of study to arrive at 
 the conclusion of my researches, and I sincerely hope 
 they may be the means of causing to be more fre¬ 
 quently used those wholesome aromatic plants which 
 nature has so bountifully spread over the globe, and 
 lessen the false manipulations of inexperienced persons, 
 so pernicious to humanity. 
 
 Having now carefullv revised and added new re- 
 
 CJ v 
 
iv 
 
 ceipts to our culinary journal, I beg of you to call this 
 morning upon the printer, Savill, of Chandos-street, 
 and get composed, in good plain reading type, the en¬ 
 closed ; it will probably make forty more pages. Send 
 me a proof as soon as possible, which I will immediately 
 correct and return to you, as you say our publishers 
 are now getting short of the w r ork. I would not think 
 of going to press this time with less than 5000. 
 
 Kind remembrances of love and friendship to you 
 and yours, Dear Eloise, 
 
 Hortense. 
 
 The extraordinary sale of this work, unparalleled in 
 the history of the book-trade, (for the short time from 
 its publication, the 7th of Sept. 1849,) has caused many 
 to doubt the fact. The author has therefore inserted 
 the following letter, received from his publishers: 
 
 Stationers' Hall Court, Feb. 15, 1850. 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 We beg to inform yon, that your “ Modern Housewife” 
 is still in great demand, and we would therefore advise you to 
 go to press immediately with 3000 or 4000, as they are certain 
 of being wanted early in March. 
 
 We remain, your most obedient servants, 
 
 Simpkin, Marshall, & Co. 
 
 To M. Soyer, Reform Club. 
 
 P.S.—The last-mentioned number would be preferable, as 
 completing the Twentieth Thousand of the work.* Let us 
 know, also, when the 7th edition of your “ Gastronomic 
 Hegenerator” can be delivered to us. 
 
 * The work has now reached its Thirtieth Thousand, (Nov. 1855.) 
 
Bifrons Villa , St. J - W - , 
 
 September 29th, 1849 . 
 
 Eloise, Dearest,— 
 
 Please in your name, and also in mine, return 
 our sincere thanks to our friends, and especially to the 
 fair daughters of Albion, for the flattering reception 
 they have given to our culinary correspondence, or 
 gastronomic journal, with which I beg of you especially 
 to couple that powerful organ, the public press, which 
 in a few days, like the commotion of an earthquake, 
 has shaken the domesticated nerves of thousands of 
 housewives throughout the United Kingdom, merely to 
 inform them that I, “ Mrs. B.,” and you, “ Mrs. L.,” 
 humble but domesticated women, have had a friendly 
 correspondence respecting housewifery in all its 
 branches; the echo of which, believe me, Eloise, has 
 done more in a few days, than half a century could 
 ever have accomplished for us in our happy but 
 obscure sphere; therefore you must not be too proud 
 
VI 
 
 of our success, for be well convinced that it is more 
 due to the iron tongue of the press than to the brain 
 that lias conceived it. 
 
 A Second Edition is already wanted, say you—“ I 
 can hardly believe it,”—and that in less than a fort¬ 
 night. At all events, the only novelty in this one 
 must be confined to corrections, which I can assure 
 you, thanks to you and the printer’s carelessness, are 
 tolerably numerous; therefore, follow your publisher’s 
 advice, and cause the steam-press to issue, as quickly 
 as possible, 6000 copies, which will form the Second 
 Edition. 
 
 With the greatest esteem, 
 
 I remain, ever yours, 
 
 Houtense. 
 
 P.S.—I have forwarded you one of the Magic Stoves, which 
 I have just received from Gardner’s. I had this morning one on 
 our breakfast-table, and cooked in a very short time, at a trifling 
 expense, two of Soyer’s new mutton chops (No. 452) four sau¬ 
 sages, and eight pieces of very thin bacon, and also in the fat 
 fried two slices of bread; we were eight to breakfast, and all 
 enjoyed this extraordinary novelty. 
 
 You reproach me for not sending you one earlier; that which 
 I intended for you has been taken by the Marquis of N. and 
 party to Egypt, with the view of having a dinner cooked on the 
 top of the Pyramids. 
 
Hie Summit of the Pyramid, The Cooking of various made dishes with Soyer's Magic Stove 
 
 and Pocket Kitchen. (From a Drawing on the spot.) 
 

 Distinguished Gourmets dining out on Ch(e)ops. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 Dialogue between Mrs. B-and Mrs. L-, her Friend 
 
 and Visitor . . . . ix 
 
 Letter No. I. . . . . . . xv 
 
 Letter No. II. ..... . xvi 
 
 Breakfasts ....... 1 
 
 First Series of Receipts . . . . .1 
 
 Letter No. III. . . . . . . .26 
 
 Early Luncheons .. . . . . .27 
 
 Letter No. IV. . . . . . . ib. 
 
 The Nursery Dinner . . . . . .29 
 
 Letter No. V. . . . . . . ib. 
 
 Comforts for Invalids .. . . . . .34 
 
 Puddings for Invalids . . . . . .51 
 
 Fish for Invalids . . . . . .54 
 
 Meat for Invalids . . . . . .56 
 
 Poultry for Invalids . . . . . .59 
 
 Culinary Correspondence . . . . ,62 
 
 Letter No. VI. . . . . . . ib. 
 
 Letter No. VII. . . . . . .63 
 
 Letter No. VIII. . . . . . . ib. 
 
 Letter No. IX. . . . . . .66 
 
 Letter No. X. . . . , . . ib. 
 
 Letter No. XI. . . . . „ .67 
 
 Letter No. XII. . . . . . .68 
 
 Roasting . . . . . . . ib. 
 
 Baking, Boiling . . . . . .69 
 
 Stewing, Braising, Frying . . . . .70 
 
 Sauteing . . . . „ . 72 
 
 Broiling . . . . . . .73 
 
 Condiments . . . . . . . 74 
 
 Water . . . . . . .86 
 
 Sauces . . . . . . .88 
 
 Soups . . . . . . . . Ill- 
 
 Fish ......... 128 
 
 Fish Sauces ....... 163 
 
 Removes . . . . . . .170 
 
 Letter No. XIII. . . . . . .185 
 
Till 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 Poultry 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 PAGE 
 
 204 
 
 Planes .... 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 222 
 
 Entrees, or Made Dishes 
 
 ,* 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 223 
 
 Letter No. XIY. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 243 
 
 Letter No. XV. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 246 
 
 Dishes with the Remains of Lamb or Pork 
 
 
 • 
 
 249 
 
 , 253 
 
 Entrees of Game 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 280 
 
 Eggs .... 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 286 
 
 Garniture for Omelettes 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 289 
 
 Roasts—Second Course 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 290 
 
 Savoury Dishes 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 300 
 
 Letter No. XYI. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 312 
 
 Shell-fish 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 ib. 
 
 Vegetables 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 321 
 
 Different sorts of Pastry 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 335 
 
 Jellies .... 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 353 
 
 Puddings in Moulds 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 358 
 
 Boiled Puddings 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 360 
 
 Baked Puddings 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 361 
 
 Removes—Second Course 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 364 
 
 Souffle .... 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 367 
 
 Dessert 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 37 a 
 
 Letter No. XVII. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 ib. 
 
 Compote 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 • 
 
 374 
 
 Compotes of Fruit simplified 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 378 
 
 Salads of various Fruits 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 388 
 
 Cakes .... 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 389 
 
 Letter No. XVIII. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 394 
 
 Royal St. James’s Cake 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 ib. 
 
 Letter No. XIX. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 397 
 
 The Dinner Table 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 ib. 
 
 Letter No. XX. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 401 
 
 Beverages for Evening Parties . 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 402 
 
 Letter No. XXI. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 403 
 
 Letter No. XXII. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 405 
 
 Conversation on Household Affairs 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 406 
 
 Bills of Fare 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 413 
 
 Letter No. XXIII.—The Bachelor’s Dinner 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 419 
 
 Letter No. XXIV. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 ib. 
 
 Letter No. XXV.—A New Aliment 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 422 
 
 Carving 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 424 
 
 Letter No. XXVI.—The Septuagenarian Epicure 
 
 
 • 
 
 425 
 
 letter No. XXVII.—Soyer’s Anti-Cholera Diet . 
 
 • • 
 
 • • 
 
 447 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 t 
 
 DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B - and MRS. L -, 
 
 HER ERIEND AND VISITOR. 
 
 Mrs . L, I have now, my dear Mrs. B., been nearly 
 a fortnight at your delightful Villa, and I must say, 
 with all truth, that I never fared better in my life, yet 
 I am considered somewhat of an epicure, as is likewise 
 my husband; but, of course, our means being rather 
 limited, we are obliged to live accordingly. 
 
 Mrs. B. Well, so must we; and I assure you that 
 during the first few years of our marriage, our pecu¬ 
 niary resources were but small, but even then I ma¬ 
 naged my kitchen and housekeeping at so moderate 
 an expense, compared with some of our neighbours, 
 who lived more expensively, but not so well as we did, 
 that, when any of them dined with us, they flattered 
 me with the appellation of the c Model Housekeeper,’ 
 and admired the comforts of our table, but would 
 leave with the impression that I must be the most ex¬ 
 travagant of wives. Now, believe me, I have always 
 prided myself, whether having to provide for a cere¬ 
 monious party, or dining by ourselves, upon haying 
 
X 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 everything properly done and served, that so, if any 
 friends should come in by accident or on business, 
 they were generally well pleased with our humble hos¬ 
 pitality, and that without extravagance, as my husband 
 is well convinced; for, when we dine with any acquaint¬ 
 ance of ours, he is very eager to persuade them to 
 adopt my system of management; though he is no 
 great judge of what is called the highest style of 
 cookery, yet he does not like to live badly at any time, 
 as he very justly says, it matters not how simple the 
 food,—a chop, steak, or a plain boiled or roast joint, 
 but let it be of good quality and properly cooked, and 
 every one who partakes of it will enjoy it. 
 
 Mrs. L . Nothing more true! 
 
 Mrs. B. But since you talk of limited income and 
 economy, let me relate to you a conversation which 
 occurred a few years ago between Mr. B. and a friend 
 of his, who declared to him that his income would 
 never allow him to live in such luxury, which he 
 called a comfortable extravagance. 
 
 “Extravagance!” exclaimed Mr. B., “if you have 
 a few minutes to spare, I will convince you of the con¬ 
 trary, and prove to you that such an expression is very 
 unjust, if applied to my wife’s management. Now, to 
 begin, what sum should you suppose would cover our 
 annual housekeeping expenditure, living as we do, in 
 a style of which you so much approve, but consider 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xi 
 
 so extravagant; there are ten of us in family—viz., 
 myself and wife, three children, two female servants, 
 and three young men employed in my business, and 
 including our usual Christmas party, which of course 
 you know of, (having participated in the last two,) also 
 two separate birth-day parties of twenty persons each, 
 and three juvenile petits-soupers and dances for the 
 children upon their natal anniversaries, besides a friend 
 dropping in occasionally, which is never less than once or 
 twice a week .”— u Well, I do not know,” answered our 
 friend; “ but having nearly the same number to provide 
 for, and in a more humble way, my expenses for house- 
 
 keepingare never less than £-per annum.”—“ Less 
 
 than what!” exclaimed Mr. B.; “ why, my dear friend, 
 you must be mistaken,” at the same time ringing the 
 bell. u I wish I were, with all my heart,” was the 
 reply, as the servant entered the room. u Jane,” said 
 Mr. B., “ ask your mistress to step this way for a few 
 minutes; I wish to look at her housekeeping-book.” But 
 being busy at the time in the kitchen, I sent up a key 
 for him to get it, which happened to be a wrong one; 
 upon discovering the mistake, I sent up the right, 
 with an apology for not coming myself, as I was super¬ 
 intending the cooking of some veal broth, which the 
 doctor had ordered for our poor little Henry, who was 
 ill at the time. u Well,” said his friend, u there is a 
 wife for you; I must confess mine can hardly find the 
 
Xll 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 way to the kitchen-stairs.” “ Now!” said my husband, 
 opening my desk, and, taking up my book, he showed 
 
 him the last year’s expenditure, which was £-. 
 
 “ No!no! that is impossible,” replied his friend. “ But,” 
 said Mr. B., “ there it is in black and white.” “ Why, 
 good heavens I” exclaimed the other, “without giving so 
 many parties, and also two less in family, my expendi¬ 
 ture is certainly greater.” To which Mr. B. replied, “Sol 
 should imagine, from the style in which I saw your table 
 provided the few days we were on a visit to your house; 
 therefore I am not in the least astonished. Here, however, 
 is the account for the closing year, just made up to the 
 28th December, 1848. Let us see what it amounts to, 
 probably to £50 or £60 more.” “ So, so,” replied the 
 other, “ that is an increase.”—“ Let it be so,” said 
 Mr. B., “ but you must remember that we are twelve- 
 months older, and as our business increases, so do we 
 increase our comforts; and this year Mrs. B. with the 
 children had a pretty little house at Ramsgate for two 
 months, which will account for the greater part of it.” 
 
 Mrs. L. But, my dear Mrs. B., I am as much 
 astonished as your friend could possibly have been. 
 I should, however, have liked you to explain the 
 matter; but here comes your husband, who will pro¬ 
 bably initiate me in your culinary secrets. 
 
 Good morning, my dear Mr. B., I hope I have the 
 pleasure of seeing you well. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xiii 
 
 Mr. B. Perfectly so, madam. 
 
 Mrs. L. I have been talking to Mrs. B. about her 
 system of housekeeping, who was relating to me a 
 conversation you had with a gentleman, astonished 
 with its economy. I am also surprised, and should 
 like to take a few leaves out of your most excellent 
 book, if you will allow me. 
 
 Mr. B. Certainly, my dear madam; in my wife, 
 without flattering her too much, you see almost an 
 accomplished woman, (in hearing such praise, Mrs. B. 
 retired, saying, “ How foolishly you talk, Richard;”) 
 she speaks two or three different languages tolerably 
 well, and, as an amateur, is rather proficient in music, 
 but her parents, very wisely considering household 
 knowledge to be of the greatest importance, made her 
 first acquainted with the keys of the store-room before 
 those of the piano; that is the only secret, dear madam; 
 and this is the explanation that I gave to my friend, 
 who thought it a good jest, and one of truth. I told 
 him to do the same by his two daughters, which would 
 not only make them more happy through life, but 
 transmit that happiness to their posterity by setting 
 an example worthy of being followed. 
 
 I always say, give me a domesticated wife, and with 
 my industry, I would not change my position for a 
 kingdom; “Very true, very true,” was my frientps 
 answer, and we then parted. 
 
XIV 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 I have never seen him since, nor his wife, who was 
 probably offended at the economical propositions of 
 her husband; for nothing, you are well aware, is more 
 common than for people to be offended when told the 
 truth respecting themselves; or perhaps she was too 
 advanced in years to think of changing her ideas of 
 housekeeping. 
 
 I see, my dear Mrs. L., the Brougham is waiting 
 at the gate to convey you to the railway; allow me to 
 see you safe to the station; you will not have many 
 minutes to spare, for the train will shortly be up. 
 
 Thank you, my dear sir, (replied Mrs. L.,) and, in 
 bidding adieu, allow me to express the gratification 
 and delight I have felt during my stay with yourself 
 and your inestimable wife, whose friendship I shall 
 always highly prize. 
 
 As she took her seat in the carriage, and departed, 
 a farewell was given from the parlour-window by 
 Mrs. B. 
 
 About an hour after the above conversation, Mrs. L. 
 was seen entering her cottage at Oatlands, fully re¬ 
 solved to follow, as closely as possible, the economical 
 management of Mrs. B.; but a little reflection soon 
 made her perceive that she possessed only the theory, 
 and was sadly deficient in the practice; she then deter¬ 
 mined to beg of her friend a few receipts in writing, 
 and immediately despatched the following letter:— 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XV 
 
 LETTER No. I. 
 
 From Mrs. L - to Mrs. B -. 
 
 Oatlands Cottage; Jan. 1st, 1849. 
 
 My dear Hortense, —Upon my arrival at home, I am happy to 
 say that I found all quite well, and delighted to see me, after 
 (to them) so long an absence as a fortnight, which my husband was 
 gallant enough to'say appeared months; but to myself the time 
 appeared to pass very swiftly: for, indeed, every day I felt so much 
 more interested in watching closely how well you managed your 
 household affairs, that, believe me, you have quite spoiled me, 
 especially with your recherche style of cookery, which even now I 
 cannot make out how you could do it at such moderate expense: 
 and, apropos of cooking, Mr. L., expecting me home at dinner, had, 
 I have no doubt, a long interview and discussion with Cook, respect¬ 
 ing the bill of fare. “ Well, sir,” I will suppose she said, “ what can 
 be better than a fine fat goose, stuffed with sage and ingyons : wo 
 have a very fine ’un hanging in the larder.” (You must observe, 
 dear, that my cook is plain in every way.) “ A very excellent 
 notion, that. Cook; nothing can be better than a good goose;” was, 
 no doubt, my husband’s answer, who, although very fond of a good 
 dinner, cannot endure the trouble of ordering it. 
 
 Well, then, here I am in my little drawing-room (the window 
 slightly open), enjoying the fresh country air, which seems to have 
 been amalgamated with a strong aroma from the aforesaid goose, 
 especially the sage and onions; and I am almost certain that the 
 inseparable apple-sauce is burnt or upset on the stove, from the 
 brown smoke now ascending from the grating over the kitchen win¬ 
 dow. This style is now to me quite unbearable, and I mean to have 
 quite a reform in my little establishment, and first of all to bring up 
 my daughter in the way recommended by Mr. 33. to his friend, to 
 make her more domesticated than I am myself, as I begin to per¬ 
 ceive that a knowledge of household affairs is as much required as 
 intellectual education; and for my part, I have come to the determi¬ 
 nation of adopting your system of management as closely as possible; 
 but first, you must know, that, without your scientific advice, it will 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XVI 
 
 be totally impossible; therefore I beg to propose (if you can aftord 
 the time) that you will in writing, give me the description how you 
 lay out your breakfast-table, with the addition of a few receipts for 
 the making of rolls and the other breakfast bread, which X so much 
 enjoyed whilst with you; even how to make toast, and more espe- 
 pecially how you make coffee, chocolate, cocoa (tea, of course, X 
 know r ). And should this meet with your approbation, I will make a 
 little journal, which may some day or other be useful to our families 
 and friends. 
 
 Until I hear from you, I shall be -waiting with anxiety for your 
 decision upon this important and domestic subject. 
 
 Remaining, dear Hortense, 
 
 Yours very sincerely, 
 
 ELOISE. 
 
 LETTER No. II. . 
 
 From Mrs. 13 -, in reply. 
 
 Bifrons Villa; Jam 3rd, 1849. 
 
 My dear Eloise, —In answer to yours, I agree, with the greatest 
 pleasure, to contribute towards your domesticated idea, which, I 
 must say, is very original, and may, as you observe, prove useful; 
 but why should we confine our culinary journal to breakfasts only? 
 why not go through the different meals of the day ? that is, after 
 breakfast, the luncheon; then the nursery dinner at one; and here 
 it strikes me that in that series, we might introduce some receipts, 
 to be called, Comforts for Invalids; even our servants’ dinners and 
 teas; then the early dinner at two or three, for people in business, 
 the parlour dinner at six, the coffee after dinner, and even suppers 
 for a small ball or evening party; but all on a moderate scale, leav¬ 
 ing the aristocratic style entirely to its proper sphere. 
 
 To show my approbation of your idea, I enclose herewith the first 
 receipt, How to make Toast . 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 When we first commenced housekeeping, we were six in 
 family, five of whom breakfasted together, the three young 
 
 men in the shop, Mr. B-, and myself. The cloth was 
 
 laid by the servant girl at half past seven precisely; at ten 
 minutes to eight I made tea, and at eight o’clock we were 
 seated. The breakfast, which was composed merely of 
 bread and butter at discretion, fresh watercresses when 
 plentiful, or sometimes boiled eggs; for variation, once a 
 week, coffee ; if in the winter, we had toast, which I never 
 suffered the servant to prepare more than five minutes be¬ 
 fore we were seated, for, if kept longer, the dry toast be¬ 
 comes tough, and the buttered very greasy, and con¬ 
 sequently unpalatable, as well as indigestible. Twenty 
 minutes only were allowed for breakfast, after which the 
 table was cleared, the cloth carefully folded and put by 
 for the next morning,—for we kept a separate one for 
 dinner, and imposed the fine of a halfpenny upon any one 
 who should spill either tea or coffee over the cloth by 
 carelessness. Such was always my plan when in business; 
 and you must know as well as myself, it is not only the 
 expense of the washing, but the continual wear and tear 
 of the linen, which make frequent washings so ruinous; 
 but the cloth used always to look clean, and I am confi¬ 
 dent that not less than five pounds a year were saved on 
 that very trifling matter, washing, and you know we 
 thought as much then of five pounds as we perhaps now 
 
 do of twenty. 
 
 * 
 
 Respecting our present time and method of setting out 
 our breakfast table, you are acquainted with it as well as 
 myself; it would, therefore, be useless to trouble you with 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 it, but if you consider it worthy of notice you can of 
 course describe it yourself. Now to business : before par¬ 
 taking of a breakfast, you must provide the materials, 
 (which I always select of the best quality,) and require to 
 know how to prepare them. I shall, therefore, give you a 
 series of every description of articles which may properly 
 be partaken of at the breakfast-table. 
 
 FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS. 
 
 1. TOAST.—Procure a nice square loaf that has been 
 baked one or two days previously, (for the new cannot be 
 cut, and would eat very heavy,) then with a sharp knife 
 cut off the bottom crust evenly, and then as many slices 
 as you require, about a quarter of an inch in thickness, (I 
 generally use a carving-knife for cutting bread for toast; 
 being longer in the blade it is more handy, and less liable 
 to waste it.) Contrive to have a clear fire : place a slice 
 of the bread upon a toasting-fork, about an inch from one 
 of the sides, hold it a minute before the fire, then turn it, 
 hold it before the fire another minute, by which time the 
 bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to move it 
 gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed 
 a yellowish-brown colour, then turn it again, toasting the 
 other side in the same manner; lay it then upon a hot 
 plate, have some fresh or salt butter, (which must not be 
 too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would make it 
 heavy,) spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and 
 cut the toast into four or six pieces; should you require 
 six such slices for a numerous family, about a quarter of 
 a pound of butter would suffice for the whole ; but cut 
 each slice into pieces as soon as buttered, and pile them 
 lightly upon the plate or dish you intend to serve it on. 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 3 
 
 You will find this way a great improvement upon the old 
 system, as often in cutting through four or five slices with 
 a bad knife, you squeeze all the butter out of the upper 
 one, and discover the under one, at the peril of its life, 
 swimming in an ocean of butter at the bottom of the dish. 
 
 N.B. The warming of the bread gradually through, on 
 both sides, is a very great improvement upon the quality 
 of the toast; it may give a trifle more trouble, but still it 
 is quicker done, and much lighter. 
 
 All kinds of toast must be done the same way, but if to 
 be served under a bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be 
 toasted drier. 
 
 Being in every way an economist, I generally save the 
 remnants of the loaf that have become too dry to be eaten 
 as bread, and by just dipping them in warm water, toast¬ 
 ing them gradually, and buttering them, I found that they 
 were eaten in preference; but their being stale is a secret 
 of my own, which, if divulged, would prevent their ever 
 being eaten after. 
 
 2. DRY TOAST should not be made until quite ready 
 to serve; when done, place it in a toast-rack, or upon 
 its edges, one piece resting against another. Any kind 
 of toast that has been made half an hour is not worth 
 eating. 
 
 3. TO TOAST MUFFINS, (see No. 6.) —Just pull 
 open, half an inch deep, the sides of the muffins, exactly 
 in the centre, then put your toasting-fork in the middle of 
 the bottom, hold it a little distance from the fire until 
 partly warmed through; turn and put it again to the fire 
 until it becomes lightly toasted, turn it again to toast the 
 other side: when done, pull it open, spread a thin layer 
 of butter on each side, close them together; lay them 
 upon a plate, and with a sharp knife divide them across 
 
4 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 the middle, and serve very hot. If more than one muffin 
 is required, cut them all separately, and pile them lightly 
 one upon another on the plate. When well prepared, they 
 are, in my opinion, a very great luxury, obtainable at a 
 trifling expense. 
 
 4. TO TOAST CRUMPETS.—Crumpets stand lower 
 in the general estimation of the public, probably from not 
 being so distingue , and having the misfortune to be cheaper 
 than their sister muffins; but, for all that, the poor ought 
 never to be forgotten, and a crumpet toasted as follows is 
 not to be despised. Choose your crumpets fresh if pos¬ 
 sible, though they are not bad after having been made 
 three or four days; toast them by first warming both sides, 
 like muffins, then give them a nice light brown colour on 
 each side; lay them in a plate, and spread some rather 
 soft butter lightly upon each side; cut in halves with a 
 sharp knife, and serve; half an ounce of butter to each 
 crumpet is quite sufficient. If you have several to serve, 
 place them separately upon a large hot dish; some people 
 place them one upon the other, which is a very bad plan, 
 as it causes the under ones to eat like a piece of dough, 
 and such food cannot be wholesome. Crumpets require 
 to be toasted rather quickly. 
 
 5. MILK ROLLS FOR BREAKFAST.— Here, dearest, 
 
 I must recommend you the following receipt, which I consider an economical 
 luxury, especially when you have a few friends upon a visit at your house. 
 I shall here describe it so plainly, that I am confident you cannot fail even 
 upon the first trial. (Remark how simple):— 
 
 Have a convenient sized basin, into which put half a 
 pound of the best flour, making a hole in the middle; add 
 half an ounce of German yeast, one ounce of butter, a tea¬ 
 spoonful of powdered sugar, and half ditto of salt, overwhich 
 pour three large wineglassfuls of lukewarm milk; mix the 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 5 
 
 whole, by degrees, with your hand, (using a little more 
 flour,) until forming a stiffish paste; rub off the paste 
 which adheres to your fingers, and form the whole into a 
 ball, which leave at the bottom of the basin, covered over 
 w r ith a clean cloth, and set it half an hour to rise, or prove, 
 in a warmish place, after which throw a little flour upon a 
 dresser, cut the paste into pieces of the size of eggs, mould 
 them of a round, oval, or any other shape you may fancy, 
 egg over with a paste-brush, and place them upon a 
 baking sheet, or upon the bottom of the oven if clean and 
 not too hot; a few minutes will suffice to bake them, and 
 they may be served either hot or cold. 
 
 6. TO MAKE MUFFINS.—Mix a quart of warm 
 water in winch you have dissolved three ounces of good 
 German yeast, with sufficient flour to form a stiff batter, 
 which let remain in a warm place four hours, then stir the 
 mixture down, and break it into pieces, weighing a quarter 
 of a pound each, winch mould round with your hands, and 
 put into wooden trays containing a round bed of flour for 
 each; let them remain in a warm place tw T o hours to prove; 
 have your muffin-stove hot; have a round piece of iron, 
 winch place on the fire to get hot; set the muffins upon it, 
 and when nicely risen, turn them gently over, baking them 
 upon the stove until sufficiently set, when they are done; 
 they will take about ten minutes baking if the stove is at 
 the proper heat, which is known by a little flour thrown 
 on it becoming brown. Muffins may also be made of 
 brewer’s yeast, but then they would require longer proving, 
 and great care must be taken that the yeast is not bitter. 
 The bitterness of the yeast can be removed by putting a 
 hot charcoal or coal cinder in it. 
 
 7. TO MAKE CRUMPETS.—Mix a gill of brewer’s 
 yeast, free from bitter, with tw r o quarts of water, just luke- 
 
6 
 
 BREAKFASTS, 
 
 warm, to which add sufficient flour to make a thinnish 
 batter, and let it stand six hours in a warm place, then 
 stir it well with a wooden spoon, and let it remain four 
 hours longer; have the muffin-stove hot, upon which place 
 a number of tin hoops, the size of crumpets, pour a small 
 ladleful of the batter into each hoop, and when the top is 
 covered with small bladders, turn them quickly over (hoops 
 and all) with a large palate knife, and in about five minutes 
 afterwards they will be sufficiently baked. 
 
 S. RUSKS.—Put three pounds of flour upon a dresser, 
 make a hole in the middle, into which put two ounces of 
 German yeast, dissolved in a pint of warm water, mix a 
 little of the flour in, and leave it half an hour in a warm 
 place to rise, then add two ounces of powdered sugar, and 
 a quarter of a pound of butter, dissolved in half a pint of 
 w r arm water; mix the whole into a dough, and let it 
 remain in a warm place until well risen, when work it 
 down with the hands, divide it in three pieces, each of 
 which form into a long roll about two inches in thickness, 
 place them upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches 
 apart, and put them in a warm place to prove, occasion¬ 
 ally moistening the tops with milk; bake them in a 
 moderate oven. When cold, cut them in slices the thick¬ 
 ness of a penny-piece, which lay upon a clean baking- 
 sheet, and put into a warm oven; when well browned upon 
 one side, turn them over; put them again into the oven 
 until the other side is browned; they are then done and 
 ready for use. 
 
 9. TOPS AND BOTTOMS.—Make a dough exactly 
 as described in the last, but using only half the butter; 
 have a deep-edged baking-sheet well buttered, and when 
 the dough is ready, turn it on to a dresser, well floured; 
 divide *nto small pieces the size of walnuts, which mould 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 7 
 
 into round balls, and place close together upon the baking- 
 sheet ; put them in a warm place to prove, and bake well 
 in a moderate oven. When cold, divide and cut each one 
 in halves (making a top and bottom) which brown in the 
 oven as directed for rusks. 
 
 10. BUNS.—Put three pounds of flour in an earthen 
 pan, make a hole in the middle, in which put two ounces 
 of German yeast, dissolved in three parts of a pint of 
 warm water, and stir in a little of the flour, forming a 
 thinnish batter, let it remain in a warm place nearly an 
 hour, until well fermented, then add half a pound of 
 sugar, a few currants, and half a pound of butter, dissolved 
 in nearly a pint of warm milk; mix the whole well together, 
 making a soft but dry dough; let it remain in a warm 
 place until it rises very light, then turn it out of the pan 
 on to a board; work it well with the hands, shaking flour 
 over lightly, then mould it into small round balls, double 
 the size of walnuts, which place upon a buttered baking- 
 sheet, four inches apart; moisten the tops with milk; put 
 them in a warm place to prove, not, however, permitting 
 them to crack, and bake them in a hot oven. 
 
 11. BRIOCHE ROLLS.—Put four pounds of flour 
 upon a dresser, one pound of which put on one side, make 
 a hole in the middle, into which pour nearly three parts 
 of a pint of warm water, in which you have dissolved an 
 ounce of German yeast; mix it into a stiff but delicate 
 paste, which roll up into a ball: cut an incision across it, 
 and lay it in a basin well floured, in a warm place, until 
 becoming very light; then make a large hole in the centre 
 of the three pounds of flour, into which put half an ounce 
 of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, half a gill of water, and 
 sixteen eggs; mix it into a softish flexible paste, which 
 press out flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and 
 
8 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 working with the hands until well amalgamated, flour a 
 clean cloth, fold the paste in it and let remain all night. 
 In the morning mould them into small rolls; put them 
 upon a baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. Unless 
 your breakfast party be very large, half the above quantity 
 will be sufficient. These rolls being quite a luxury, I 
 make them only upon very especial occasions. 
 
 EGGS. 
 
 12. HOW TO CHOOSE EGGS.—New-laid eggs 
 should not be used until they have been laid about eight 
 or ten hours, for that part which constitutes the white is 
 not properly set before that time, and does not until then 
 obtain that delicate flavour; that which is termed milk in 
 eggs being, according to my opinion, very insipid, but 
 that entirely depends upon fancy. 
 
 Nothing being more offensive than eggs in a state of 
 decomposition, it is very important that every person 
 should know how to detect them, (especially in the winter, 
 when a much greater quantity are used in London;) if, by 
 shaking them, they sound hollow, you may be certain they 
 are not new-laid, and not fit to be boiled for breakfast, 
 but, if broken, they may prove fit for any other culinary 
 purpose, except for souffles, for which eggs must be very 
 fresh. The safest way to try them is to hold them to the 
 light, forming a focus with your hand; should the shell 
 be covered with small dark spots, they are very doubtful, 
 and should be broken separately in a cup, and each egg 
 smelt previously to using them; if, however, in looking at 
 them, you see no transparency in the shells, you may be 
 sure they are rotten and only fit to be thrown away; the 
 most precise way is, to look at them by the light of a 
 candle; if quite fresh, there are no spots upon the shells, 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 9 
 
 and they have a brilliant light yellow tint; in the spring 
 of the year, it would be scarcely excusable to use any eggs 
 that are not quite fresh. 
 
 13. EGGS FOR BREAKFAST, plain boiled .—Put 
 about a pint of water to boil in any kind of small stewpau, 
 (or saucepan,) over the fire; when boiling, put in two or 
 three fresh eggs, gently, with a spoon, being particular not 
 to crack or allow them to boil too fast, or the interior of 
 the eggs would partly escape before they were set, giving 
 them an unsightly appearance, and entirely preventing 
 their cooking regularly; three minutes are sufficient to 
 cook a full-sized egg, but if below the average size, two 
 minutes and a half will suffice. 
 
 14. EGGS AU BEURRE, (a new method .)—Let the 
 eggs boil six minutes instead of three, then take them out, 
 dip them for two seconds in cold water, crack and peel off 
 the shells, and lay them in a hot plate, (they will remain 
 quite whole if properly done,) cut each egg in halves 
 lengthwise, spread a little fresh butter and sprinkle a little 
 salt over the interior, and eat them very hot. 
 
 Eggs done in this manner are delicate and digestible. 
 
 15. TO BOIL EGGS HARD.—Never boil eggs for 
 salads, sauces, or any other purposes, more than ten 
 minutes, and when done place them in a basin of cold 
 water for five minutes to cool; take off their shells, and 
 use them when required. 
 
 Nothing is more indigestible than an egg too hard- 
 boiled. 
 
 16. POACHED EGGS.—Put a pint of water in a 
 stewpan, wfith four teaspoonfuls of vinegar and half a tea¬ 
 spoonful of salt, place it over the fire, and when boiling, 
 
10 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 break your eggs into it as near the surface of the water as 
 possible, let them boil gently about three minutes; have 
 rather a thin piece of toast, as described, (No. 1,) upon a 
 dish, take the eggs out carefully with a small slice, lay the 
 slice with the eggs upon a cloth for a second, to drain the 
 water from them, set them carefully upon the toast, and 
 serve very hot. If the eggs are fresh they will look most 
 inviting; but the way of breaking and boiling* them must 
 be most carefully attended to, and care should be taken 
 not to boil too many together; if the yolks separate from 
 the white, it may be presumed that the egg is not fresh, 
 but it may be eatable, for the same thing may happen 
 through awkwardness in poaching. 
 
 Again, the toast upon which they are served may be 
 buttered either with plain or maitre-d’hotel butter, or two 
 small pats of butter may be melted, without boiling it, 
 and poured over, or a little melted butter sauce, or the 
 same with the addition of a little maitre-d’hotel butter 
 poured over when just upon the point of boiling, or a little 
 anchovy butter instead of the other; thus you may be able 
 to indulge in nice little luxuries at a trifling expense. 
 
 17. TOAST AND EGGS.—Break three eggs into a 
 small stewpan, add a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of that 
 quantity of pepper, and two ounces of fresh butter, (the 
 fresher the better,) set the stewpan over a moderate fire, 
 and stir the eggs round with a wooden spoon, being care^ 
 ful to keep every particle in motion, until the whole has 
 become a smooth and delicate thickish substance; have 
 ready a convenient-sized crisp piece of toast, pour the 
 eggs upon it, and serve immediately. 
 
 18. EGGS SUB, LE PLAT.—Lightly butter a small 
 oval dish, upon which break two, three, or more eggs with- 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 11 
 
 out breaking the yolks, season lightly with a little white 
 pepper and salt, put a few small pieces of butter here and 
 there upon them, and then set the dish in the small oven, 
 where let it remain until the whites become set, but by no 
 means hard, and serve hot; if the oven is moderately hot, 
 they will take about ten minutes; if no oven, put the dish 
 before the fire, turning it round now and then until the 
 eggs are set regular. This is a most excellent dish. 
 
 19. OMELETS may also be served for breakfast with 
 great advantage, being very relishing, especially the ome¬ 
 lettes aux fines herbes , au lard , and aux champignons, but as 
 they are considered to belong to the dinner, they will be 
 given in that series of receipts. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 20. HERRING TOAST SANDWICH. — Choose a 
 bloater for this purpose not too dry, which split in two, 
 cutting it down the back; lay them upon a plate and pour 
 a pint of boiling water over; let them soak five minutes, 
 when place them upon a cloth to dry; then broil them 
 very gradually upon a gridiron; when well done, which 
 will be in about four or five minutes, have ready two thin 
 slices of toast, made very crisp, butter them lightly, then 
 take away all the bones from the herrings, lay the fleshy 
 parts equally upon one piece of toast, and cover with the 
 other; serve very hot. 
 
 21. TOAST AND EGGS WITH HERRING.—Pre¬ 
 pare your toast and eggs as directed, (No 17,) but previous 
 to pouring the eggs over, lay the flesh of a herring as 
 directed in the last, and pour the eggs over that. Herring 
 upon toast, with a layer of mashed potatoes over, is also 
 very good. 
 
12 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 0 
 
 Dried haddock may also be served the same, as also 
 may sardines, but they being ready-cooked, are laid over 
 cold without splitting them; they are very delicious: if 
 wanted hot, set them a few minutes before the fire. 
 
 22. BLOATED HERRINGS.—They require to be 
 freshly salted, for if dry they are quite rank and unpa¬ 
 latable ; scrape them lightly with a knife, and wipe them 
 well with a cloth; pass the point of a knife down the 
 back from head to tail, making an incision about a quarter 
 of an inch in depth; place them upon the gridiron over 
 a sharp fire; they w T ill take about six minutes to cook, of 
 course turning them occasionally; when done, put them 
 upon a hot dish, open the backs, and place half a small 
 pat of butter in each; again close them: cooked this 
 way they are delicious, especially if they are real bloaters. 
 Another way is to cut them quite open and broil them 
 flat upon the gridiron, and serve quite plain; this way 
 they are done much more quickly. Or, if nice and fresh, 
 oil half a sheet of white paper for every fish, in which 
 fold them and broil fifteen minutes over a slow fire, 
 turning them over three or four times, and serve in the 
 papers. Should you have any that have become dry, 
 soak them about tw r enty minutes in lukewarm water, and 
 proceed as first directed. (Same process will do for red 
 herrings.) 
 
 23. DRIED HADDOCK.—A very excellent thing for 
 breakfast, but they never ought to be cooked whole, for 
 one side being thinner than the other is of course dried up 
 before the other is much more than half done, especially 
 the larger ones ; the better plan is to cut them in halves 
 lengthwise, put them upon the gridiron over a moderate 
 fire, keening them frequently turned, and taking the 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 13 
 
 thinnest half off first; the thickest will require about ten 
 minutes to cook it thoroughly; when done, spread a pat 
 of fresh butter over, and serve upon a very hot dish. 
 
 The small Scotch Finnon haddocks are by far the best, 
 and may be cooked whole, being more equally divided, 
 but the side where the bone is left may, perhaps, want 
 another minute, but not sufficient to spoil the other. 
 
 Haddocks may also be skinned and broiled in oiled 
 paper, but of course would take rather more time in 
 cooking. 
 
 24. WHITINGS.—Of all the modes of preparing and 
 dressing whitings for breakfast I cannot but admire and 
 prize the system pursued by the Scotch, which renders 
 them the most light, wholesome, and delicious food that 
 could possibly be served for breakfast: their method in, 
 to obtain the fish as fresh as possible, clean and skin 
 them, take out the eyes, cover the fish over with salt, im¬ 
 mediately after which take them out and shake off the 
 superfluous salt, pass a string through the eye-holes, and 
 hang them up to dry in a passage, or some place where 
 there is a current of air; the next morning take them off, 
 just roll them lightly in a little flour, broil them gently over 
 a slow fire, and serve very hot, with a small piece of fresh 
 butter rubbed over each, or serve quite dry, if preferable. 
 
 Any whitings obtained here might be dressed in the 
 same manner and eat very good, but nothing to equal the 
 Scotch small whiting with the skin on; when cleansed, 
 well wiped with a cloth, salted as before, and broiled, 
 may also be served with a maitre-d’hotel butter spread 
 over them. 
 
 25. SLIPS, or SMALL SOLES. —When cleaned, 
 season them with a little pepper and salt, dip lightly into 
 
14 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 flour, and broil them slowly over a moderate fire about 
 ten minutes, or according to the size; when done, place 
 them upon a hot dish, pour two tablespoonfuls of crea^l 
 over and serve immediately. They may of course ba 
 served dry, but pouring the cream over is a new and very 
 good idea. Nothing but small white fish could be tole¬ 
 rated for breakfast. 
 
 26. SPRATS when nicely cooked are very commend¬ 
 able. Dip them lightly into flour, and place them upon a 
 gridiron over a slow fire; when about half done, turn 
 them; when done (which would be in about five minutes 
 from the time you put them on,) serve dry in a very hot 
 dish. 
 
 27. SARDINES.—There are but very few of these 
 delicate little things used in England, yet there is nothing 
 more calculated to give a zest to the appetite at breakfast 
 or luncheon; I suppose it is their high price which pre¬ 
 vents their coming much in vogue; but when I have a few 
 visitors my table is never without, and they are really very 
 much approved of; the box of twenty-four cost from two 
 to three shillings, depending on the size of the fish. 
 
 28. DRIED SPRATS.—Upon these I put but very 
 little praise, being generally so very dry and salt; they 
 may be eaten plain as they are, or broiled slightly. 
 
 M EAT. 
 
 29. SHEEP’S KIDNEYS.—Procure as many as you 
 may require for your party, about one each is generally 
 sufficient; be sure that they are fresh, which any person 
 can ascertain by smelling, if not able to judge by their 
 appearance; cut them open very evenly lengthwise, down 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 to the root, but not to separate them; remove the skin, 
 then have some small iron or wooden skewers, upon which 
 thread the kidneys quite flat, by running the skewer twice 
 through each kidney, that is, under the white part; season 
 them rather highly with pepper and salt, and place them 
 upon a gridiron, (the inside downwards,) over a sharp 
 fire; in three minutes turn them over, and in about six 
 they will be sufficiently done; then take them off the 
 skewers, place them in a very hot dish, and serve imme¬ 
 diately. In opening them be careful to cut them in the 
 centre, for should one half be thicker than the other, one 
 would be dried before the other was sufficiently cooked 
 
 30. KIDNEYS ON TOAST.—Prepare the kidneys 
 precisely as in the last, but when done have ready a piece 
 of hot toast, which butter lightly; lay the kidneys upon 
 it; have ready a small piece of butter, to which you have 
 added a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; 
 place a small piece in the centre of each kidney, and when 
 melted serve. 
 
 31. KIDNEYS BREAD-CRUMBED, a la Maitre- 
 cCHotel .—Prepare the kidneys as before, and when upon 
 the skewer, have ready upon a plate an egg well beat up 
 with a fork; season the kidneys with a little salt and 
 pepper, dip them into the egg, then lightly cover them 
 with bread-crumbs, put them upon the gridiron, which 
 place over a moderate fire, broil them about ten minutes, 
 turning them when half done, have ready a little maitre- 
 d’hotel butter, put about half an ounce in each kidney, 
 and serve immediately upon a very hot dish; by the time 
 it gets upon the table the butter will be melted, and they 
 eat very relishing this way; they may also be served 
 upon toast. 
 
16 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 32. SAUTEED KIDNEYS.—Should you not have a 
 fire lit for broiling, put an ounce of butter into a saute-pan 
 (which of course must be very clean), cut the kidney in 
 halves lengthwise, remove the skin, and when the butter 
 is melted, lay them in, the flat side downwards, having 
 previously well seasoned them with pepper and saft; set 
 the pan on a moderate lire three minutes,then turn them; 
 place them again upon the lire until done; when have 
 ready a piece of dry toast, which place upon a hot dish, 
 pour the kidneys with the butter and gravy over, and serve 
 very hot. Care must be taken in sauteing that the butter 
 does not become burnt. 
 
 Another way is to sprinkle about a teaspoonful of 
 chopped eschalots, or onions, over them whilst being 
 sauteed. This materially changes the flavour, and meets 
 the approbation of many. 
 
 For the cooking of mutton chops, steaks, cutlets, broiled 
 fowl, broiled bones, or remnants of poultry or game for 
 breakfast, I must refer you to where they are given as 
 Receipts for the Dinner-table. 
 
 HAM, BACON. 
 
 33. BACON AND HAM for broiling .—Ham for broil¬ 
 ing ought not to be too old or too dry, it would perhaps 
 eat rank. Nothing requires more care than broiling. 
 Either get a slice of ham weighing a quarter of a pound 
 or two ounces, which lay on your gridiron; put it over 
 the lire; it will take perhaps live minutes if the lire is 
 good, and more, of course, if slow; but in that short space 
 of time, turn it three or four times, and it is done. Pro¬ 
 ceed the same if you want to serve it with poached eggs 
 (see No. 16), but be careful that the eggs be ready at 
 the same time as the bacon or ham, or both would eat 
 badly. If you happen to have a whole ham by you for 
 that purpose only, as is often the case at a farmhouse, 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 17 
 
 begin to cut the slices in a slanting direction, and the 
 same thickness, and proceed to the end of the ham with the 
 remainder. It will prove more profitable to broil with 
 greens, peas, broad beans, &c. &c. 
 
 To saute, put a little butter or good fat in the pan; 
 set it on the fire with the slice in it, saute very gently,? 
 turning very often, and serve on very thin toast. 
 
 34. HAM AND EGGS.—While your ham is doing, 
 break two fresh eggs in the pan, season slightly with salt 
 and pepper, set it before the fire till the eggs are delicately 
 done, and slip them whole carefully into your dish, without 
 breaking the yolk. 
 
 35. BACON.—The streaked part of a thick flank of 
 bacon is to be preferred; cut nice slices, not above a 
 quarter of an inch thick, take off the rind, put to broil on 
 the gridiron over a clear fire; turn it three or four times 
 in the space of five minutes: this will be all the cooking 
 required. Serve it very hot. Though this is the best 
 part, the wdiole of the bacon is good, especially if not 
 rank, which can be easily detected by its yellowish colour; 
 if too dry or salt, after it has been cut in slices, dip it into 
 a little vinegar and water three or four times, and saute 
 as usual; it will make it softer and less salt. Serve as 
 usual. If any remain after a dinner of boiled bacon, it is 
 also very good broiled or fried for next day’s breakfast. 
 Broiled and boiled bacon has been highly recommended 
 to the dyspeptic. 
 
 36. SAUSAGES. — Sausages are very frequently esteemed for breakfast; 
 the Cambridge are most in vogue ; but the best I ever tasted were made a 
 present to me by Sir George Chetwynd, Bart., made by a country pork 
 butcher at Atherstone, a small town near Grendon Hall, the country seat of 
 the above-mentioned baronet. They are more plainly made, and also better 
 seasoned, and not subject to burst like the Cambridge ones, or, at all events, 
 those made in London under that name. Oxford produces good sausages, 
 
 C 
 
18 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 not so choice in appearance, but, to my taste, better in flavour; the plainer 
 they are, the better they dress for breakfast; by all means, never use them 
 except you are confident that they are fresh. The skin must be transparent, 
 that the meat should be seen through; they keep good two or three days in 
 a cold place, in summer, nearly a week in winter (with care.) 
 
 37. SAUSAGES,— hoio to cook them. —Prick them with 
 a pin all round about twenty times, put them on the gridiron 
 over a gentle fire ; turn three or four times, by doing which 
 you will have them a very nice yellow colour; dish them, 
 and serve them very hot. 
 
 38. SAUTEED SAUSAGES.—If your fire smoke, it is 
 preferable to saute them. Put some butter in the pan, with 
 four sausages; after you have pricked them as before men¬ 
 tioned, saute gently; a few minutes will do them; turn 
 them often. In many instances, a thin slice of bread 
 sauted in the fat they have produced, is a great improve¬ 
 ment : save the fat, as it is always useful in a kitchen. In 
 case you are in a hurry to do them, throw them into hot 
 water for one minute previously to their being broiled or 
 sauteed; they will then be the sooner cooked, and even 
 eat rather more relishing to a delicate stomach, the oil 
 being extracted thereby from the skin; they may also be 
 fried in the frying-pan. 
 
 39. BLACK PUDDINGS.—They are in France a regular standing dish 
 for a winter’s breakfast, and ought to be more in use in England; but I 
 must observe that I mean the home-made ones, or those made a la Franpais, 
 because I consider those that are usually sold in almost every shop are too 
 heavy for breakfast; they may pass at dinner-time, though I must confess 
 the flavour is not at all to my liking. 
 
 40. BLACK PUDDINGS, BROILED.—Make about 
 six or eight incisions through the skin with a knife, slant- 
 fwise, on each side of the pudding; put it on the gridiron 
 or about eight minutes, over rather a brisk fire; turn it 
 four times in that sjDace of time, and serve broiling hot. 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 19 
 
 I should recommend those who are fond of black puddings to partake of 
 no other beverage than tea or coffee, as cocoa or chocolate would be a clog 
 to the stomach. In France they partake of white wine for breakfast, which 
 accounts for the great consumption of black pudding. Now really this is a 
 very favourite dish with epicures, but I never recommend it to a delicate 
 stomach. 
 
 COFFEE. 
 
 COFFEE, which has now come so generally into use, originally came from 
 Arabia, where it has been known from time immemorial, but was brought 
 ip*- 0 use in England in the year 1653. As it is not generally known how it 
 was introduced, I will give you the account of it from ‘‘ Houghton’s Collection, ” 
 1698. “ It appears that a Mr. Daniel Edwards, an English merchant of 
 
 Smyrna, brought with him to this country a Greek of the name of Pasqua, 
 in 1652, who made his coffee; this Mr. Edwards married one Alderman 
 Hodges’ daughter, who lived in Walbrook, and set up Pasqua for a coffee- 
 man in a shed in the churchyard in St. Michael, Comhill, which is now a 
 scrivener’s brave-house, when, having great custom, the ale-sellers petitioned 
 the Lord Mayor against him, as being no freeman. This made Alderman 
 Hodges join his coachman. Bowman, who was free, as Pasqua’s partner; but 
 Pasqua, for some misdemeanor, was forced to run the country, and Bowman, 
 by his trade and a contribution of 1000 sixpences, turned the shed to a house. 
 Bowman’s apprentices were, first, John Painter, then Humphrey, from whose 
 wife I had this account.” Having examined the renter churchwarden’s book 
 of St. Michael, Cornhill, I find that the house or shed Bowman built is now 
 part of the Jamaica Coffee House; it was rebuilt by Bowman, after the fire, 
 in 1667. 
 
 It is a very remarkable fact that but few persons in England know how to 
 make good coffee, although so well supplied with the first quality of that 
 delicious berry ; but, by way of contrast, I must say that the middle classes 
 of France are quite as ignorant of the method of making tea. 
 
 I remember, upon one occasion, whilst staying at Havre with Mr. B., where 
 we were upon a visit at the house of one of his agents, who invited a few of 
 his friends to meet us at a tea-party a VAnglaise, as they used to call it. 
 About an hour previous to tea, and previous to the arrival of the guests, I 
 was walking upon the lawn before the house, when my attention was 
 attracted by a cloud of steam issuing from the kitchen-window, smelling 
 most powerfully of tea • my curiosity led me to the kitchen, where I found 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 the cook busily engaged making cocoa and most delicious coffee, but pre¬ 
 paring the tea in a ridiculous fashion, the leaves of which were in an awful 
 state of agitation, attempting as it were to escape from an earthen pot at the 
 side of the fire, in which the delicious soup we had for dinner was made a 
 few hours previously. (See Pot-au-Feu.) 
 
 “ My dear girl,” said I (in French), “ what process do you call that of 
 making tea? it never ought to be boiled.” 
 
 “ I beg your pardon, Madame,” says she, “ master and mistress like it 
 well done, and it will be another short half hour before it is properly cooked 
 (ce sera alors copieux).” 
 
 “ You are decidedly wrong,” said I, “ and I shall be most happy to show 
 you the way we make it in England.” 
 
 “Yes, I know what you mean, Madame,” replied she ; “ I used to make 
 it that way before, but no one liked it, that is, to boil it one hour in a copper 
 pan over a charcoal fire.” Upon which I retired, making a most comical 
 grimace, to refrain from laughing at her still more ridiculous fashion. 
 
 You must, however, observe, that this occurred nearly twelve years ago, 
 and I have no doubt but a reform has taken place since then by the continual 
 traffic of the English through that part of the country. I must say with 
 resuect to ourselves, we do not make quite such a blunder respecting coffee, 
 but still our middle-classes very seldom enjoy the aroma of that delicious 
 beverage, which should be made as follows : 
 
 Choose the coffee of a very nice brown colour, but not 
 black (which would denote that it was burnt, and impart 
 a bitter flavour) ; grind it at home, if possible, as you 
 may then depend upon the quality; if ground in any 
 quantity, keep it in a jar hermetically sealed. To make 
 a pint, put two ounces into a stewpan, or small iron or tin 
 saucepan, which set dry upon a moderate fire, stirring the 
 coffee round with a wooden spoon continually until it is 
 quite hot through, but not in the least burnt; should the 
 fire be very fierce, warm it by degrees, taking it off every 
 now and then until hot (which would not be more than two 
 minutes), then pour over a pint of boiling water, cover close, 
 and let it stand by the side of the fire (but not to boil) 
 for five minutes, strain it through a cloth or a piece of thick 
 
BREARFASiS 
 
 21 
 
 gauze, rinse out the stewpan, pour the coffee (which will 
 be quite clear) back into it, place it upon the fire, and, 
 when nearly boiling, serve with hot milk if for breakfast, 
 but with a drop .of cold milk or cream if for dinner. 
 
 To prove the simplicity of this mode of making coffee, 
 1 shall here give a repetition of the receipt as it actually 
 is :— 
 
 41. TO MAKE COFFEE.—Put two ounces of ground 
 coffee into a stewpan, which set upon the fire, stirring the 
 powder round with a spoon until quite hot, then pour 
 over a pint of boiling water; cover over closely for five 
 minutes, pass it through a cloth, ’warm again, and serve.# 
 
 The foregoing proportions would make coffee good enough for any person, 
 but more or less coffee could be used if required; the cloth through which it 
 is passed should be immediately washed and put by for the next occasion. A 
 hundred cups of coffee could be made as here directed in half an hour, by 
 procuring a pan sufficiently large, and using the proper proportions of coffee 
 and water, passing it afterwards through a large cloth or jelly-bag. 
 
 * This entirely new system of making coffee has never yet been introduced 
 to the public, and was found out by the author of this work through the 
 following circumstance : Whilst travelling by night in a railway train, and 
 arriving in due time at the station, where positively no less than five minutes 
 are allowed to restore exhausted nature after a long and tedious journey, 
 and then obliged to use a certain portion of manual strength in pushing 
 through the crowd to get at what is called the refreshment room, and after 
 waiting for nearly two minutes for my turn to be served with some of the 
 boiling liquid which they called coffee, found it as bad as any human being 
 could possibly make it (they having probably waited patiently by the side of 
 a winter’s fire until the last train made its appearance); it tasted anything 
 but palatable ; but having a long journey before me, and requiring something 
 to eat and drink, I was obliged to put up with it; but before I could even 
 partake of half, or finish masticating some stale toast or over-buttered muffin, 
 the unsociable bell violently rang to acquaint the passengers that their appe¬ 
 tites were perfectly satisfied, though that incredulous organ would not let us 
 believe it; and every one being perfectly avrare that railway trains, like 
 time, wait for no one, the hurry of which event, fortunately, made me escape 
 the swallowing the thick part which was deposited at the bottom of the cup. 
 Rusliing out of the refreshment room, I jumped into the wrong carriage, the 
 fidgety train having changed its place, and the time being too short to rectify 
 the mistake, I was obliged to make fresh acquaintance with my new com - 
 pagnona de voyage, who happened to be as much dissatisfied with the steam* 
 
22 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 42. COFFEE, FRENCH FASHION.—To a pint of 
 coffee, made as before directed, add a pint of boiling milk; 
 warm both together until nearly boiling, and serve. The 
 French never use it any other way for breakfast. 
 
 43. WHITE COFFEE (a new style .)—Put two ounces 
 of unground coffee, slightly roasted, into a clean stewpan, 
 which set upon a moderate fire, slowly warming the coffee 
 through, shaking the stewpan round every half minute; 
 when very hot, which you will perceive by the smoke 
 arising from it, pour over half a pint of boiling water; 
 cover the stewpan well, and let it infuse by the side of the 
 fire for fifteen minutes; then add half a pint of boiling hot 
 milk, pass the coffee through a small fine sieve into the 
 coffee-pot or jug, and serve with white sugar-candy or 
 crystallized sugar. It is, as you will perceive, a great 
 novelty, and an agreeable change. But if, by neglect, you 
 
 ing-hot refreshment as myself who had patronised the steaming Mocha. I 
 was at last much pleased to find a wise man among my new travelling friends, 
 who said, “ I never travel at night without being provided with a spirited 
 companion and pulling out of his carpet-bag a small bottle and gutta-percha 
 goblet of new invention, we partook of a drop of the best eau de vie I had 
 ever tasted, which produced on me the pleasant sensation of being relieved 
 of a very annoying pain. Grateful for his kindness, and always desirous to 
 improve the domestic comfort, I told him, in making myself known, that, as 
 soon as I arrived at the Reform Club, I would try several experiments to 
 simplify the present method of making coffee ; and should I be successful in 
 my researches, I would forward him the receipt. On my arrival in London, 
 I found my first travelling friends, who, more unfortunate than myself, got 
 in their proper place, and, consequently, did not meet with the “spirited” 
 friend I did, vowing they would never take any more coffee at night, espe¬ 
 cially in a railway train. Having forwarded the receipt to my fellow- 
 traveller, he, after having tried it, wrote me the following note : 
 
 “ My dear Sir, —I have made an experiment of your new receipt for coffee, 
 which you have kindly forwarded to me, and beg to acquaint you that I never 
 recollect having tasted better.—Yours, &c. “ W. C.” 
 
 I do strongly advise my readers to give it a trial, and recommend all pro¬ 
 viders of refreshment at railway stations not to make the coffee boiling hot, 
 but to keep the cafetiere in a lain-marie, which would pi event all the above 
 inconvenience, both as regards quality and heat. 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 23 
 
 let the coffee get black, or the least burnt, do not attempt 
 to make use of it: it should only be sufficiently charred 
 to break easily in a mortar if required. 
 
 44. COFFEE MADE WITH A FILTER.—To make 
 a quart: first put a pint of boiling water through the filter 
 to warm it, which pour away, then put a quarter of a pouud 
 of ground coffee upon the filter, and upon which put the 
 presser and the grating lightly, pour over half a pint of 
 boiling water, let it stand three or four minutes, then pour 
 over a pint and a half more boiling water; when well 
 passed through, pour it into a clean stewpan, which set at 
 the corner of the fire until a light scum arises, but not 
 boiling; pour it again through the filter, and when well 
 drained through, pour into the coffee-pot, and serve with 
 hot milk, or a little cream, separately, 
 
 45. ANOTHER WAY, (more economical.) —Proceed 
 as in the last, but drain the coffee through once only, and 
 serve; after which, pour another quart of boiling water 
 over the coffee-grounds, which, when drained through, 
 reserve, and boil up for the next coffee you make, using 
 it instead of water; use an ounce less coffee. 
 
 TEA. 
 
 TEA is, without doubt, one of the most useful herbs ever introduced into 
 this country: it was in the year of the fire of London, 1666,* and has dis¬ 
 placed an unwholesome and heavy drink (ale) which used to be partaken of 
 
 * In that year there were imported into England, at the present day, we 
 learn from the Overland and Friend of China, No. 52, December 29, 1849, 
 that there were exported from Canton to the United Kingdom, 39,362,300 lbs.; 
 of this, 36,206,700lbs. was black, and only 3,115,600lbs. green ; of the 
 black, there were 31,677,3001bs. of congou ; showing the immense increase 
 in the consumption of a plant which has done so much towards the civiliza¬ 
 tion of mankind, and drawing forth the inventive genius which he possesses. 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 2i 
 
 previously, and has created habits of sobriety. It is a plant indigenous to 
 China, Japan, and Siam, and consists of many varieties, the proper mixing 
 of which constitutes the great art of a tea-dealer. It is exceedingly useful 
 in many cases of sickness, and particularly after having partaken of any 
 liquor to excess, or after extraordinary fatigue. When new, it is a narcotic ; 
 but when old it has a different effect ;* in its native countiy it is never par¬ 
 taken of until a year old, and not then, unless exceedingly desiccated. I 
 cannot recommend you any one in particular, as that depends on taste ; but 
 this I advise, that when you have a kind to your liking, keep to it. 
 
 And now, my dear friend, without wishing in the least to offend you, or 
 attempting to aggravate your good nature, I must beg to contradict your 
 assertion, made at the commencement of our undertaking, where you say, 
 respecting tea, of course I know how to make it; you made it whilst staying 
 at our house occasionally, and Mr. B. found there was a great difference 
 between it and mine. But to tell you the truth respecting tea, I have a 
 little secret of my own, being a discovery which I made a short time ago by 
 accident. Whilst in the act of making tea, I had just put the dry tea in the 
 pot, when I heard a fearful scream up-stairs in the drawing-room ; rushing 
 there, I found my little girl had had a severe fall in reaching something from 
 the chimney-piece, the stool upon which she,stood having upset: twenty 
 minutes at least elapsed before I returned to my tea (which, being alone, I 
 was in no particular hurry for), when I found that the servant, thinking there 
 was water in the pot, and fearing the tea would be spoiled, put it into the 
 oven, which was rather hot; when she brought it to me I was rather annoyed, 
 when all at once it struck me that the leaves being hot through, the tea. 
 would not require so long to draw; I then filled the tea-pot with boiling- 
 water, and in a minute afterwards had a most delicious cup of tea, since which 
 l have adopted the system upon all occasions, and am now having made a 
 small spirit-lamp to warm the pot and leaves, as the oven is not always hot; 
 it may, however, be made hot in front of the fire, but must not be placed 
 too close. I gave the receipt to one of our neighbours, who actually laughed 
 
 * Some few years since, having a great deal of writing to do within a 
 certain time, and which could not be done without employing the night as 
 well as the day, I partook of weak green tea, with a little brandy, sugar, and 
 lemon-juice, as a beverage, and, with light food, I was enabled to do it with 
 but eighteen hours’ sleep, from eight o’clock on Monday morning to five 
 o’clock on the following Sunday morning. 
 
BREAKFASTS. 
 
 25 
 
 at the idea, but never tried it, saying-, “We cannot teach anything to 
 our grandmothers, and that what did for them would do for us.” Now, 
 what could you say to such people ? why, nothing ; but let them alone, as I 
 shall do for the future. But you, my dear, I know, have better sense; 
 proceed as I have directed, and you will find it a great improvement. Put 
 your tea in the pot ten minutes before being ready for it, warming both tea 
 and pot, before the fire or in a slow oven ; fill with boiling water, and leave 
 it from three to five minutes to draw, when it is quite ready. 
 
 CACAO. 
 
 CACAO was first known in Europe after the discovery of America, and it 
 retains its Indian name ; of course, it was first used in Spain, and did not 
 come into use in England until much later; and we find that there was 
 imported into England, in the year 1694, about 13,0001bs weight of it; in 
 1848, 410,0001bs. It is a long fruit, about five to eight inches, and three or 
 four thick, which contains about thirty nuts: the tree grows to only a few 
 feet in height. 
 
 During the time of the famine in Ireland, I turned my attention to this 
 valuable fruit, whose nutritive qualities are so great; and from conversation 
 and correspondence with our principal importers and manufacturers of cho¬ 
 colate, I found that it cannot be had in sufficient quantities to allow of a 
 great consumption, as it is a production which, like all others, is subject to 
 vicissitudes, which, at times, considerably raise the price of the nut; but I 
 see no reason why it should not be made an article of greater cultivation, so 
 as to provide for the great demand which would arise if it were more gene¬ 
 rally introduced. In the course of my experiments, I have found that the 
 shell is almost as nutritious as the kernel, with less oily particles in it, which, 
 to many, are unpleasant; and I am confident that large quantities might be 
 imported into this country at a very cheap rate, which are, at the present 
 moment, thrown away in South America and the West India Islands, just in 
 the same way as the tobacco-stalk was, but which is now imported into this 
 country for the purpose of making snuff. If imported in greater quantities, 
 it would be a most excellent article of diet in our workhouses and charitable 
 institutions. 
 
 46. CHOCOLATE.—Scrape two ounces of the cake 
 into a stewpan or sa-ucepan, with a gill of water, place 
 
26 
 
 BREAKFASTS. 
 
 upon the fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until 
 rather thick, when work it quickly with a spoon, stirring 
 in half a pint of boiling milk by degrees; serve very hot, 
 with sugar separate. 
 
 47. CHOCOLATE MADE IN THE ITALIAN 
 METHOD. — Procure a regular chocolate-pot with a 
 muller, the handle of which comes through the lid; one 
 might be procured at any brazier’s; put in two ounces of 
 chocolate (scraped), over which by degrees pour a pint of 
 boiling milk, put on the lid with the muller inside, which 
 keep w T ell moving, setting the pot upon the fire, and when 
 very hot and frothy, serve. 
 
 48. COCOA.—Put a teaspoonful and a half of canistered 
 cocoa into a cup, which fill by degrees with boiling milk, 
 stir it until dissolved, when it is ready to serve ; sugar 
 separately. 
 
 LETTER No. III. 
 
 Oatlands Cottage, Jan. 20, 1849. 
 
 Dear Hortense,—I have inclosed the whole of the receipts which yon 
 have sent me for the Breakfasts, properly classified, having omitted the cold 
 meats (as you desired me) from this series, thinking, as you do, they are 
 more suited for the luncheon. To save useless repetition, I have placed the 
 receipts in numbers, by which references can be easily made, and any dish 
 appearing in the dinner or luncheon series, but available for breakfast, can 
 be directly found. 
 
 One thing I remember when at your house was, that when the remains of 
 a joint were rather large, you used to put it upon a side-table, and let any 
 one help themselves from it there ; your idea being, I believe, that very few 
 persons liked to have a large dish of meat before their eyes almost imme¬ 
 diately after rising from their beds, or at the first meal of the morning. Re¬ 
 specting the way your table was laid out, to the best of my recollection, it 
 was as follows:—First, the large table-cloth, over which was laid a small 
 
EARLY LUNCHEONS. 
 
 27 
 
 napkin before each person, with cups and saucers for tea or coffee, at choice, 
 small plates for rolls, and a size larger for meat, sausages, eggs, &c., a small 
 knife and fork for each; the butter in a pretty freezing butter-glass, just 
 covered with clear spring-water, and garnished with a few sprigs of parsley 
 or water-cresses ; the cream in a small china cream-jug, and a larger jug con¬ 
 taining hot milk for coffee; orange marmalade in its original pot, honey¬ 
 comb, water-cresses, and once a few nice young radishes, which were excel¬ 
 lent, although a little out of season ; one day also dry toast was served, 
 another day buttered, the next muffins, then crumpets, white and brown 
 bread, and small rolls, thus making a continual change, but all so small and 
 inviting. I shall always, when I have company, as you had then, arrange 
 everything in the same manner, especially now that I have your receipts 
 written down. But when you are alone, you tell me you never make any 
 such display, which of course would be ridiculous ; still even then you vary, 
 by having either tea, coffee, or chocolate, which change I like as well as 
 
 you. I seldom partake of meat, but Mr. L-generally likes a little broiled 
 
 bacon, or boiled eggs, things in themselves very simple and pleasant to have 
 upon the table. Yours, in haste, 
 
 Eloise. 
 
 EARLY LUNCHEONS. 
 
 LETTER No. IV. 
 
 My dear Friend, —I feel perfectly satisfied with the manner in which 
 you have classified my receipts respecting the breakfasts, and I must say I 
 felt very much interested in looking over them ; I am confident they would 
 prove interesting and instructive to any young housekeeper ; I hope, there¬ 
 fore, you will preserve the originals, as I do not keep any copies, fearing they 
 would confuse me by making reference to them ; so that, if at any future time 
 I should make a repetition in other series, you would be able to correct me, 
 for I am as willing as yourself that we should complete our Journal by 
 going through every series comprising meals of the day. 
 
 The next meal, then, to breakfast, in the ordinary course of events, is the 
 luncheon. Although it is a meal we never touch ourselves, I am aware many 
 small families make it a regular one, so our little journal would not be com¬ 
 plete without some few remarks, which I intend making as short and concise 
 as possible. When we were in business, our luncheons were comprised of any 
 cold meats which were cooked for previous dinners; if a joint of cold roast 
 
28 
 
 EARLY LUNCHEONS. 
 
 or boiled meat, it requires to be nicely trimmed before making its appearance 
 at table, but reserving the trimmings for hash, if of roast meat, or bubble 
 and squeak, if salt beef, which is an excellent method of disposing of the 
 remainder of a joint to advantage ; if the joint happened to be cold veal, I 
 used to send for a plate of ham to serve with it, unless there was a piece of 
 bacon also left; if mutton, I used to dish up the leg with a pretty little 
 paper frill upon the knuckle, also trimming the joint lightly, for you must be 
 aware that, after four or five have dined from a leg of mutton, its appearance 
 becomes quite spoiled, and looks blackish when cold. Pork I also serve the 
 same ; when parsley was cheap, I always laid a few branches round it, which 
 used, as my visitors said, to make the meat look very refreshing and inviting. 
 Our only addition was sometimes the remainder of game, which at that time 
 used frequently to be presented to us—pheasants, partridges, or grouse ; as 
 it would then have been very extravagant to have purchased them, especially 
 when they were so expensive. As an accompaniment to the meat, I always 
 kept two different sorts of mixed pickles, good bread, butter, cheese, and a 
 glass of excellent table ale ; or, if our guest was some bosom friend or good 
 customer, a bottle of sherry (not decantered), never any port, thinking that 
 more fit for the dinner-table. Such was my plan in the first five years after 
 my marriage : everything upon our table was of the first quality, and every 
 one used to admire the neatness with which the table was laid out. 
 
 My method now, when luncheon is required (as we do not dine until half- 
 past five o’clock, Mr. B. being engaged until four in the city), I have the 
 cloth laid at twelve, and lunch at half-past; and that time being just after 
 the nursery dinner, we generally have some sort of pudding or tart, made at 
 the same time with theirs. For cold meat, I always serve that up which 
 has been left from a previous dinner, if any, or any remains of poultry, game, 
 ham, or tongue. When, however, we have six or eight friends from the 
 country, at Christmas, I feel proud to show them my style of doing things 
 well and economically, for they are very intelligent people, and can appre¬ 
 ciate good living, though at home they really live too plain for their in¬ 
 comes ; but they say, “ We do not understand how it is that you make a 
 nice little dish almost out of nothing.” For should I have the remnants of 
 any poultry or game not very inviting to the sight, I generally cut it up and 
 show my cook how to hash it in a variety of ways ; and I always remark, 
 that they never partake of any cold meat whilst any of the hash remains. 
 For the methods of making various hashes of fowl, game, hare, rabbit, beef, 
 
THE NURSERY DINNER. 
 
 29 
 
 mutton, as also curries, minced veal and poached eggs, cold pies of game, 
 poultry, mutton, beefsteak, or pigeon, as also plain mutton cutlets, steaks, 
 and broiled bonee, the whole of which may be served for luncheon, I must 
 Refer you to the series of Receipts belonging to the Dinner; any of these 
 articles are placed in order upon the table, with the pickle-stand, two 
 different cruet-sauces, orange marmalade, potatoes, butter, cheese, sherry 
 and port wines. This style of luncheon, will no doubt surprise ^ou, but I 
 can assure you it scarcely increases my expenditure, having the same num¬ 
 ber to provide for daily, so that the luncheon is generally made up from the 
 remains of dinner, and the remains of luncheon will dine our three servants 
 at half-past one. In the summer, I introduce a few dishes of fruit, and less 
 meat; and when there are several ladies, I often introduce some English- 
 made wine, which once I used to make myself, but which I can now buy 
 cheaper. 
 
 THE NURSERY DINNER. 
 
 LETTER No. V. 
 
 Dear Friend, —Now here I must call your especial attention to the way 
 many people treat this department of domestic comfort, which is often very 
 slight and irregular. Now, for my part, I have made quite a study of it, 
 and could prove that health is always dependent on the state of the digestive 
 organs ; and that, if you should improperly treat young stomachs, by over or 
 under supplying their wants, or using them to ill-cooked food, you not only 
 destroy the functionary coating of the stomach, but also impede the develop¬ 
 ment of the intellect. It is, then, as much a science to manage the food, of 
 children, as to cater for the palate of the gourmet, and I shall always con¬ 
 sider that good food is to the body what education is to the mind. 
 
 My plan of managing the nursery meals is as follows —At eight o’clock 
 in the morning, which was my usual time, I used myself to prepare that 
 glutinous food upon which our ancestors and race were first reared, rather 
 unclassically denominated Pap. My method was very simple : 
 
 49. PAP.—Put two ounces of rusk, or tops and oottoms, 
 in a small saucepan, with just sufficient water to moisten 
 them; set the saucepan upon the fire until its contents 
 are thoroughly warm through; pour a little of the water 
 
30 
 
 THE NURSERY DINNER. 
 
 away, if too thin, pressing the rusk w T ith a spoon: then ada 
 a teaspoonful of white or brown sugar, and beat the whole 
 with a spoon until quite a pulp; it is then ready for use. 
 
 I have seen some poor people in the country make it with a stale piece 
 of bread, previously well dried and lightly toasted before the fire, and you 
 could scarcely tell the difference from rusks; and you must observe, that 
 people in a country village cannot always supply themselves with everything 
 in the way of luxury ; but look at the greater part of those country urchins, 
 —are they not a real picture of health ? for, after all, nothing is more ad¬ 
 vantageous to a delicate child than country air and country food. "When 
 Mr. B. and myself were staying at Boulogne for a few weeks, I was astonished 
 to hear that everybody used to put their children out to nurse. I was so 
 surprised, that I made every inquiry, and found it literally true; that even 
 respectable tradespeople sent their children a mile or two out in the country, 
 some to the houses of very poor people : I cannot say that I approve of such 
 a style of bringing up infants, but even there they seem as healthy and as 
 joyful as possible. I also found there something to be learned, and that was, 
 how to make French pap, which I think very nutritious, but which I con¬ 
 sidered at the time rather heavy for our climate; but having afterwards 
 made a trial of it upon our little Henry, I found him doing so extremely 
 well, that I continued feeding him upon it for nearly eight months, until he 
 was old enough to eat other food. The following is the receipt: 
 
 50. FRENCH PAP.—Put a tablespoonful of flour into 
 a pap saucepan, to which add by degrees two gills of milk, 
 mixing it into a very smooth batter w T ith a wooden spoon ; 
 place the saucepan upon the fire, let it boil ten minutes, 
 keeping it stirred the whole time, or it is liable to bum or 
 become brown, then add about half an ounce of sugar and 
 a little salt, put it into a basin, and it is ready for use. A 
 little butter is also very good in it. 
 
 You will observe, that it is more difficult and troublesome to make than 
 our pap; but when used to it you will expend no more time over it; and, as 
 the French people say, cooking is all pleasure and no trouble. But what 
 convinces me that it is more palatable and nutritious is, that I have seen 
 a very robust man make a hearty dinner of two plates of it, by intro¬ 
 ducing bread in it. I have no doubt that our own hasty pudding was taken 
 
THE NURSERY DINNER. 
 
 3 . 
 
 from it, for the use of children of three or four years old, being thought too 
 heavy for infants. These long details may appear rather insignificant and 
 tedious to you, but I leave them to your good judgment, begging of you to 
 curtail my remarks should you think proper; but, although you may con¬ 
 sider that every person is acquainted with these domestic habits, you would 
 find upon inquiry that veiy many persons neglect them almost entirely. 
 Having written thus much upon the food of infants, we must next consider 
 the proper diet for children of twelve months old, commencing with bread 
 and milk. 
 
 51. BREAD AND MILK.—Cut about two ounces of 
 any white bread into small thin slices, and put them into 
 a small basin or a large breakfast cup, in a little saucepan 
 (only used for that purpose) have half a pint of milk; when 
 upon the point of boiling, pour over the bread; cover over 
 the cup five minutes, and it is ready for use. 
 
 I much prefer this method to that of boiling the bread and milk together. 
 In first commencing to feed a child upon the above, I always added a littlo 
 sugar, which I withdrew by degrees, as I do not like to accustom children to 
 too much sweets, as it inclines them when a little older to be always wanting 
 or eating sweet stuff, which often spoils the best set of teeth; and here let 
 me remark, that the finest fortune you can give to your children is health, 
 and as loving mothers, whilst we have them under our control, it is our duty 
 to study their little comforts, and direct their first steps in life in the road to 
 happiness. 
 
 52. PORRIDGE.—When children are delicate, por¬ 
 ridge is often preferable to bread and milk. Put two 
 tablespoonfuls of Scotch grits or oatmeal in the milk 
 saucepan, which moisten with half a pint of milk; let it 
 boil ten minutes, keeping well stirred, add a small piece 
 of butter and a little sugar, and it is ready for use. 
 
 "When my children were about eighteen months or two years old, I used 
 to give them a little tender meat, such as boiled mutton, and broth, but in 
 very small quantities, keeping still for the general food the bread and milk 
 and porridge ; but now they are old enough to eat anything wholesome (one 
 being nine and the other ten years of age), their meals are composed thus: 
 
3*2 
 
 THE NURSERY DINNER. 
 
 53. CHILDREN’S DIET FOR THE DAY.—Bread 
 and milk for breakfast at eight; the dinner at one, which 
 was composed as follows throughout the week: roast 
 mutton and apple pudding, roast beef and currant pudding, 
 baked apples; boiled mutton with turnips, after which 
 rice or vermicelli pudding; occasionally a little salt beef, 
 with suet dumplings, plain and with currants in them, or 
 pease pudding; or if unwell, a little veal or chicken-broth, 
 or beef-tea (the receipts for which will be found in the 
 series entitled Comforts for Invalids). 
 
 When in business, the first three years we could not afford to keep a nur¬ 
 sery —i n fact, we had no room to spare ; the children then used to dine ’with 
 us at one, but at a side-table with their nurse. 
 
 54. They then had a little plain meat, cut small in their 
 plates, with potatoes, pieces of bread, and gravy, after 
 which, three times a week, plain rice, bread, or other plain 
 pudding, or rhubarb or apple tart; and, at five o’clock, 
 their bread and milk again, previous to going to bed. 
 
 But if for people who could afford it, I should recommend the following 
 diet-table, for nursery-maid and all: 
 
 55. ROAST MUTTON FOR CHILDREN.—First, 
 about two pounds of mutton, well-cooked, but with the 
 real gravy of the meat in it, which will require about one 
 hour before a moderate fire, dredge it ten minutes before 
 being done; when taken up and in the dish, sprinkle a 
 little salt over the meat, and pour over three or four spoon¬ 
 fuls of hot water to make a little light gravy. 
 
 Many persons will, I am aware, quite disapprove of this system of washing 
 the meat, they would serve it as if it were for full-grown people, but you well 
 Know what would do for children as well as I—plain, simple, and wholesome 
 food; I always carried out this system, and I now make my cook do the 
 same. 
 
 56. Then the next day I would give them a small 
 piece of mutton, plain boiled, with turnips, and apple tart ; 
 
33 
 
 THE NURSERY DINNER. 
 
 or a few slices of roast beef, or a small piece roasted on 
 purpose, after which a very plain currant pudding; or, 
 occasionally, a little pickled pork, with pease pudding, or 
 roast pork, with baked apples, and now and then a little 
 salt beef, but very well boiled, with suet dumplings, and 
 occasionally, for change, either bread, vermicelli, or tapioca 
 puddings; in case of illness, and with the approbation of 
 the doctor, veal, mutton, or chicken-broth, sago, gruel, 
 panada, &c., for which refer to the Receipts for Invalids. 
 
 Now the more I write the more I am convinced that for the method of 
 preparing certain articles for the children’s dinners, we must refer to the 
 kitchen department of Receipts and Receipts for Invalids, especially as 
 regards broth, meat, puddings, &c., or otherwise we should have too many 
 repetitions ; so that it will be better upon the completion of the journal, to 
 make references, either by numbers of receipt or page, more intelligible, and 
 less confused. 
 
 Many people may, perhaps, imagine that there is too much variety of food 
 for children ; but it is quite the contrary; for change of food is to the stomach 
 what change of air is to the general health, and, of course, with children, 
 these changes must be effected with judgment, and their food administered 
 in small quantities; for you must observe when children are well brought 
 up with regard to their meals, they possess extraordinary organs of digestion, 
 the proof of which is that they require feeding oftener than a full-grown 
 person, and never appear to be tired of eating. 
 
 Having here terminated my remarks upon the Nursery, I shall leave this 
 scene of romp and confusion, to walk on tip-toe to the sick-room door, and 
 carefully enter, without noise, into the mournful abode of human suffering 
 and captivity, in hopes that, by watching over the diet of its occupants, my 
 small efforts may improve their comforts, and, by proper management, assist 
 in their restoration to health. I shall therefore proceed to give some 
 receipts, entitled Comforts for Invalids. 
 
 Nothing is to me more painful than to see any food ill-prepared for sick 
 people, whose sense of taste is partially gone ; everything ordered by the 
 doctors as food should be cooked in the greatest perfection, especially as all 
 they require is so very simple, and easily done, it is unpardonable to do it 
 badly, although I am sorry to say that this is too often the case, even in 
 
 D 
 
Si 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 many of our first hospitals and other public establishments, where they have 
 provisions in abundance, and of the first quality. 
 
 Perhaps you may fancy I am too severe upon this delicate subject, but I 
 can assure you that I have for years been in the habit of visiting some of these 
 institutions for the sick, and can therefore speak with confidence. I have 
 grieved to see it, and often wished that they would follow a system I could 
 lay down, but there are some people who will not change their style, however 
 bad, for a better one, for the world. 
 
 Now I must here claim all your intelligence, for pointing out those receipts 
 the accomplishing of which is most plain, and will insure success to those 
 who may try to do them, and cause them to persuade others to follow their 
 example. I therefore inclose the following. Yours, &c. 
 
 Hoktense. 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 57. MEAT.—The best meat as food for invalids is, in faet, that which is 
 principally used, mutton and beef, lamb, if not too young (sweetbreads, I 
 consider, ought oftener to be introdticed), and calves’ feet or head, scalded 
 and boiled until tender, are very nutritious; chickens, pigeons, partridges, 
 are also very inviting. All the above-mentioned articles are easy of diges¬ 
 tion, excepting perhaps the beef, which may require to be gently stew T ed 
 until tender, if for a delicate stomach just ordered to take meat after a 
 serious fit of illness. 
 
 58. PLAIN MUTTON BROTH.—Get one pound of 
 scrag of mutton, break the bone with a chopper, without 
 separating the meat, then put it into a stewpan with three 
 pints of water and a salt-spoonful of salt; boil gently two 
 hours, carefully removing all the scum and fat, which is 
 easily done by allowing it to simmer slowly by the side of 
 the fire; it will be by that time reduced to about one 
 quart, and is then ready to serve. This broth cannot be 
 expected to drink very palatable, being deprived of vege¬ 
 tables and seasoning, it is in fact more like a beverage 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 35 
 
 than a soup: at the commencement of convalescence more 
 strength may be given if ordered by the doctor, by 
 reducing the original quantity to one pint. This broth is 
 often administered by a spoonful only at a time. 
 
 59. SEASONED MUTTON BROTH.—Put the same 
 quantity of mutton and water into your stewpan, add two 
 salt-spoonfuls of salt, and a half one of brown sugar, a 
 small-sized onion, very little celery, and one ounce of 
 turnip; set it upon the fire, and when beginning to boil 
 draw it to the side; let it simmer gently two hours; skim 
 off all the scum and fat, pass it through a sieve, and use it 
 when required. When finished, there ought to be about 
 a quart of broth remaining; but if by neglect it has boiled 
 too fast, add more water, and set to boil for a quarter of 
 an hour longer. When the patient is getting better, the 
 medical man will probably order a little of the meat, or 
 even turnips, to be eaten, in which case serve them on a 
 plate separately ; should the meat not be required by the 
 patient, it is very excellent for a healthy person, with a 
 few spoonfuls of onions or caper sauce, or even plain. If 
 pearl-barley is required to be taken with the broth, put a 
 tablespoonful of it in with the water when you first put it 
 upon the fire, the whole will then be done together; if the 
 barley is to be eaten by the patient, take out the meat 
 and vegetables, and skim off every spot of grease; but if 
 the barley is not required, pass the broth, as before, 
 through a sieve. 
 
 60. MUTTON BROTH, (with variations.) —With 
 Vermicelli. Having made your broth, and passed it through 
 a sieve, as before, put the meat and vegetables upon a 
 plate, and the broth back into the same stewpan; when 
 boiling, if about a quart, add one or two tablespoonfuls of 
 
 D 2 
 
36 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 vermicelli, depending upon the strength of the patient’s 
 stomach; ten minutes’ boiling will be sufficient to cook 
 vermicelli. 
 
 61. With Rice. —One spoonful of best rice in the stew- 
 pan, with mutton and water the same as the barley, as it 
 is better for the rice to be in pulp than underdone. 
 
 6*2. With Semoulina. —Semoulina is very delicate and 
 glutinous, and I am quite confident that the faculty would 
 approve of it after a trial or two; it is good in any kind 
 of broth or milk for invalids, of very easy digestion, and 
 having also the advantage of being tolerably cheap and 
 quickly cooked; proceed as directed for vermicelli. 
 
 63. With Arrow-root. —After having passed your broth, 
 place it again into the stewpan to boil; when boiling, put 
 two teaspoonfuls of arrow-root into a cup, which mix 
 smoothly with a gill of cold broth, or half ditto of water; 
 then pour it into your boiling broth, which keep stirring 
 with a spoon; let it simmer ten minutes, and it is ready 
 for use. 
 
 64. VEAL BROTH, ( French method .)—The following 
 is much recommended by French physicians:—Put one 
 pound of veal from the knuckle, with but very little of the 
 bone, into a stewpan with three pints of w r ater and a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, place it over the fire to boil; when boiling, 
 take off all the scum; then add a small cabbage-lettuce 
 and a few sprigs of chervil, if handy (this herb is now in 
 greater use than ever, and may always be had for a trifle 
 at Covent-garden Market); let simmer slowly for two 
 hours, it will then be reduced to about a quart; pass it 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 37 
 
 through a sieve, letting the meat drain, and it is ready to 
 serve. 
 
 65. ANOTHER WAY, (more palatable .)—Take the 
 same quantity of veal as before, which cut into small dice 
 (as you should cut all meat, if possible), put it into the 
 stewpan, with a small pat of butter, half an onion, about 
 the same quantity of carrot and turnip, a little celery, and 
 a teaspoonful of salt; set the stewpan upon the fire, 
 keeping the contents stirred, for about ten minutes, until 
 the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a whitish glaze, 
 then add three pints of hot water; let the whole simmer 
 one hour at the corner of the fire, skim well, pass it 
 through a sieve, and use when required. This broth is 
 most palatable and very digestible, but of course only to 
 be given to the convalescent; it may be served with 
 vermicelli, rice, arrow-root, and semoulina, as directed for 
 mutton broth. 
 
 66. ANOTHER WAY, (very Refreshing and Strength¬ 
 ening .)—Put two pounds of knuckle of veal into a stewpan, 
 with a calf’s foot split, the bone taken out and chopped 
 up, add three quarts of water, a good-sized onion, one 
 leek, a piece of parsnip, and two salt-spoonfuls of salt (if 
 allowed by the doctor, if not, the salt must be omitted), 
 set it upon the fire, and when beginning to boil, skim, and 
 let it simmer at the corner of the fire four hours; twenty 
 minutes before passing, again skim oil* all the fat, and add 
 ten large leaves of sorrel, or twenty small, one cabbage- 
 lettuce, and a handful of chervil; when done pass it 
 through a sieve; it is then ready for use. This broth is 
 very cooling and nutritious when taken cold, as it is then 
 quite a jelly; vermicelli, rice, &c., may be added when 
 
38 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 served hot, and the veal and calf’s foot is very excellent, 
 eaten with parsley and butter or sharp sauce; but should 
 the patient require any, it must be quite plain, with a little 
 of the broth and only the gelatinous part of the foot. 
 
 The above also makes an excellent dinner soup, and if 
 put in a cool place, will keep a week in winter and three 
 days in summer. 
 
 67. SOYER’S NEW WAY OF MAKING BEEF 
 TEA.—Cut a pound of solid beef into very small dice, 
 which put into a stewpan, with a small pat of butter, a 
 clove, two button onions, and a salt-spoonful of salt, stir 
 the meat round over the fire for a few minutes, until it 
 produces a thin gravy, then add a quart of water, and let 
 it simmer at the corner of the fire for half an hour, skim¬ 
 ming off every particle of fat; when done pass through 
 a sieve. I have always had a great objection to passing 
 broth through a cloth, as it frequently quite spoils its 
 flavour. 
 
 The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting 
 the vegetables, salt, and clove : the butter cannot be 
 objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming; pearl-barley, 
 vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served in it if required. 
 
 68. REAL ESSENCE OF BEEF.—Take one pound 
 of solid beef from the rump, a steak would be the best, 
 cut it into thin slices, which lay upon a thin trencher, and 
 scrape quite fine with a large and sharp knife (as quickly 
 as possible, or the juice of the meat would partially soak 
 into the wood, your meat thus losing much of its strength¬ 
 ening quality), when like sausage-meat put it into a stew- 
 pan or saucepan, and stir over the fire five or ten minutes, 
 until thoroughly warmed through, then add a pint of 
 water, cover the stewpan as tightly as possible, and let it 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 39 
 
 remain close to the fire or in a warm oven for twenty 
 minutes, then pass it through a sieve, pressing the meat 
 with a spoon to extract all the essence. 
 
 I beg to observe that here you have the real juice of 
 the meat; but if wanted stronger, put only half instead of 
 one pint of water; seasoning may be introduced, that is, 
 a little salt, sugar, and cloves, but no vegetables, as they 
 would not have time to cook, thus leaving a raw, bad 
 flavour. 
 
 69. PURE OSMAZOME, or ESSENCE of MEAT. 
 —Take two pounds of the flesh of any animal or bird (the 
 older the better for obtaining the true flavour), as free 
 from sinew as possible, and mince it well; place it in a 
 Florence oil-flask, and cork it; put this in a saucepan 
 filled with cold water, leaving the neck uncovered ; place 
 it on the side of the fire until the water arrives at 160° 
 Fahr., at which temperature it must remain for twenty 
 minutes; then remove it, and strain the contents through 
 a tammie, pressing the meat gently with a spoon ; should 
 it require to be kept for some time, put the liquor in a 
 basin or cup, which place in the saucepan ; subject it to a 
 boiling heat until it is reduced to the consistency of treacle, 
 removing the scum; this, when cold, will become solid, 
 and will keep for any number of years. Osmazome is 
 known under various names in different cookery books, 
 as “ fumet,” “ essence,” &c., and is obtained in a different 
 way, which causes the gelatine to be produced with the 
 osmazome ; but by the above plan the gelatine is left 
 in the meat, and the osmazome and the albumen are ex¬ 
 tracted ; the albumen is afterwards removed as the scum. 
 
 70. CHICKEN BROTH.—Put half a raw chicken into 
 
 /•* 
 
 a stewpan, with a quart of water, a little leek and celery 
 
40 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 with a salt-spoonful of salt, and a few sprigs of parsley 
 (if allowed); set the stewpan upon the fire; when boiling, 
 skim well, and let simmer upon the corner for one hour, 
 pass it through a sieve, and it is ready for use. 
 
 The chicken would eat very nice with a little maitre- 
 d’hotel sauce, or any other from that series would do 
 for the parlour, that is, when the patient is not allowed to 
 eat it. 
 
 For a change, chicken-broth in the following way is 
 very nutritious; that is, after having passed the broth 
 through a sieve, pour it back again into the stewpan, 
 which place over the fire; moisten a teaspoonful of flour 
 in a cup with a little cold broth or water, and when quite 
 smooth, pour it into the broth whilst boiling, stirring 
 quickly; let simmer a quarter of an hour, and it is ready. 
 Mutton or veal broth may also be varied the same. 
 
 71. EEL BROTH, {very strengthening ?)—Take a small 
 eel, which skin as described under fish, and wash well, 
 then cut it into slices, which put into a small saucepan, 
 just covered with water, add a little salt, a few sprigs of 
 parsley, two button onions, and a clove; let it simmer very 
 gently until the eels are tender, when skim off all the fat, 
 pass the broth through a very fine sieve into a cup, it is 
 then ready to serve when required, but a spoonful only 
 should be taken at a time. 
 
 A patient is sometimes allowed to take part of the fish, 
 which being so much boiled, constitutes a lighter food than 
 eels are in general; a little melted butter and parsley 
 might be served with them. 
 
 72. LAIT DE POULE, {French remedy for colds .)— 
 This may be made from any of the foregoing broths, and 
 for colds is excellent. Break a fresh egg, separate the 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 41 
 
 white from the yolk, put the yolk in a basin, with a quarter 
 of a gill of good cream or milk, which mix well with a 
 spoon; have half a pint of broth boiling, which pour gra¬ 
 dually over the egg and cream, mixing it (as you pour the 
 broth) with a wooden spoon; it is then ready, and ought 
 to be taken when going to bed, if only for a cold. 
 
 73. SWEET LAIT DE POLLE. — This is also 
 reckoned very good for a cold. Put two yolks of eggs 
 into a cup, with two teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, a 
 few drops of orange-flower water, or the eighth part of the 
 rind of a fresh lemon grated, beat them well together for 
 ten minutes, then pour boiling water gradually over, keep¬ 
 ing it stirred until the cup is nearly full. Drink this very 
 hot when in bed; I can strongly recommend it from 
 experience. 
 
 74. BIZ AU LAIT, or BICE MILK, is a very favourite 
 food, or soup; in France many persons make their suppers 
 of it, even when in a state of perfect health. Proceed 
 as follows:—wash a tablespoonful of good rice in water, 
 which drain and put into a stewpan, with a pint of milk, 
 upon the fire, and when boiling, place it at the corner to 
 simmer, until the rice is quite tender, (for invalids it must 
 be in a pulp); sweeten with a little sugar, and it is quite 
 ready. 
 
 75. BICE MILK, (seasoned .)—Proceed exactly as in 
 the last, but when the rice is quite tender add an ounce of 
 butter, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, and a little salt, stir 
 w T ell together, and it is then ready; this must neither be 
 too thick nor too thin, but about the thickness of well- 
 made gruel. In France they always add a few drops of 
 orange-flower water, but that depends upon taste. These 
 last two are very nutritious, especially after a long illness. 
 
49 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 76. VERMICELLI AU LAIT.— Boil a pint of milk, 
 and when boiling, add sufficient vermicelli to make it about 
 the thickness of the last article; it may be served quite 
 plain if required, or seasoned as for the riz au lait, omitting 
 the orange-flower water. 
 
 77. SEMOULINA AU LAIT.—Boil a pint of milk, 
 and when boiling, add a tablespoonful of semoulina, 
 stirring it gently, to prevent its becoming lumpy; let it 
 simmer twenty minutes, and serve either plain or seasoned, 
 as for the riz au lait. 
 
 78. TAPIOCA AU LAIT.—Proceed exactly as in the 
 last, but it will require rather longer to simmer before the 
 tapioca is tender; and, by way of change, add a little 
 grated lemon-peel, or a glass of white wine, if allowed by 
 the doctor, or season as for the last. 
 
 * 
 
 79. ARROW-ROOT.—Put two teaspoonfuls of arrow- 
 root, which mix gradually with enough water or milk, 
 stirring it with a spoon, let it boil a few minutes, and if 
 made with milk, add only a little butter, sugar, and salt, 
 or serve plain; but if made with water, add the eighth 
 part of the rind of a fresh lemon to boil with it; when 
 done, add a glass of port or sherry, sugar, a little salt, and 
 a small piece of butter, unless prohibited 
 
 80. GRUEL.—Put two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal or 
 prepared'groats into a stewpan, and by degrees add a pint 
 of water, mixing smoothly with a wooden spoon; place it 
 upon the fire, keeping it well stirred, until it has boiled 
 a couple of minutes, then pour it into a basin, add half 
 a salt-spoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of brown sugar, 
 and two ounces of butter, the latter especially; if for a 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 43 
 
 cold in the chest even more than that quantity, should 
 the stomach be strong enough to bear it. 
 
 Gruel when properly made, ought to adhere rather 
 thickly to the back of the spoon, but not to be pasty; it 
 ought likewise to be eaten directly it is made, or it becomes 
 thick and unpleasant to eat; if required plain, omit all the 
 seasoning; it might also be made with milk. 
 
 81. GRUEL FROM SCOTCH GROATS.—Proceed 
 as above, but add rather more water, and boil a few minutes 
 longer; many people prefer eating it with the rough groats 
 in it, but if objectionable, place a small clean sieve over 
 the basin you intend serving it in, pass the gruel through, 
 and season as in the last. Some add spirits or wine; but 
 that I should never recommend any one to do, unless by 
 the doctor’s orders, and that would be very seldom, I 
 should think, especially as regards spirits. 
 
 82. SAGO GRUEL.—Put two tablespoonfuls of sago 
 into a small saucepan, which moisten gradually with a 
 pint of cold water, set it over a slow fire, keeping it stirred 
 until becoming rather stiff and clear, similar to a jelly; 
 then add a little grated nutmeg and sugar according to 
 taste, and serve; half a pat of butter might also be added 
 with the sugar, or it might be made with new milk, and a 
 little salt added; a glass of wine in either case makes it 
 more palatable. 
 
 83. ARROW-ROOT TRANSPARENT JELLY. — 
 Put a good teaspoonful of arrow-root into a basin, which 
 mix smoothly with two spoonfuls of water, then add enough 
 boiling water to make it about the consistency of starch, 
 stirring all the time, pour it into a stewpan, and stir over 
 the fire until it has boiled two minutes; add a little cream, 
 a small glass of wine, and a little sugar, and serve. 
 
44 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 84. FRENCH PANADA (for aged people, invalids , and 
 children .)—Break a stale penny roll into a saucepan, in 
 which pour just sufficient water to cover the bread, stir 
 well over the fire, allowing it to boil five minutes, then 
 add half a teaspoonful of salt, and two ounces of fresh 
 butter, mix them, and take from the fire; have one yolk 
 of egg well beaten, with two tablespoonfuls of milk (if 
 handy) or water, which pour into the panada, stirring very 
 quickly for half a minute, it is then ready to pour into a 
 basin and serve. Any common bread would do for 
 panada, but would not eat so light as when made from a 
 roll. 
 
 I knew a very aged lady in France who accustomed her¬ 
 self to eat a basin of panada every night, a few minutes 
 previous to going to bed, for a period of eighteen years, 
 which will prove that, although very substantial in ap¬ 
 pearance, it is easy to digest. 
 
 Panada ought to be rather thicker than gruel, and may 
 likewise be made of milk, but water is preferable, especially 
 for bilious people. 
 
 85. BARLEY WATER.—Put half a gallon of water 
 into a very clean saucepan, with two ounces of clean (but 
 unwashed) pearl-barley; when boiling, carefully skim it 
 with a tablespoon, and add half the rind of a small lemon, 
 let it boil until the barley is quite tender: sweeten with 
 half an ounce of white sugar, strain it through a fine hair 
 sieve, and use when required. The juice of half a lemon 
 in some cases may also be introduced. 
 
 86. RICE WATER.—Put a quart of water to boil in a 
 saucepan, with a handful of clean rice, (but not washed), 
 place it upon the fire and let boil gently until the rice is 
 quite in a pulp, then pass it through a hair sieve into a 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 45 
 
 jug, pressing as much of the rice through as possible; 
 when getting cold, sweeten moderately with honey, which 
 will make it very palatable ; it should be drunk luke¬ 
 warm. 
 
 87. A NEW DRINK.—Put half a gallon of water 
 upon the fire, and when boiling, have ready four pippin 
 apples (quite ripe), cut each apple into eight slices, with¬ 
 out peeling them, throw them into the water, which keep 
 boiling until the apples are quite soft, pass the water 
 through a sieve, pressing the apples gently against the 
 side of the sieve, but not rubbing them through, add 
 enough honey to make it sweetish, and drink lukewarm. 
 
 Two apples thrown into the rice-water and boiled the 
 same would be a great improvement. People in good 
 health would much enjoy such drink, during the summer 
 especially; as also would poor people in the country, 
 where apples are plentiful. Any kind of apples would 
 suit, and brown sugar instead of honey, or even without 
 sugar or honey. 
 
 88. COOLING DRINK.—Bake four or six apples, 
 without peeling them; when done and quite hot, put them 
 into a jug, and pour over three pints of boiling water; 
 cover the jug over with paper, and when cold it is ready 
 for use; a spoonful of honey or brown sugar added 
 makes it very palatable. 
 
 89. ALMOND WATER.—Put five ounces of sweet 
 and two of bitter almonds into a saucepan, with a pint of 
 warm water, which set upon the fire, and, when boiling, 
 strain them upon a sieve, take off their skins, and set them 
 in spring water to cool, then dry them upon a cloth, pound 
 
46 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 them in a mortar until very fine, adding a few drops of 
 water occasionally, to prevent their becoming oily, set a 
 pint of syrup to boil, and throw in the mashed almonds; 
 boil altogether a minute, then set it at the corner to simmer 
 for a quarter of an hour; it is then ready to pass through 
 a fine sieve for use. When required, add any quantity 
 of cold water, according to taste or direction, to make it 
 palatable. 
 
 90. BARLEY LEMONADE.—Put a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar into a small stewpan, with half a pint of 
 water, which boil about ten minutes, or until forming a 
 thickish syrup; then add the rind of a fresh lemon and 
 the pulp of two ; let it boil two minutes longer, when add 
 two quarts of barley-water, from which you have omitted 
 the sugar and lemon; boil five minutes longer, pass it 
 through a hair sieve into a jug, which cover with paper, 
 making a hole in the centre to let the heat through; when 
 cold, it is ready for use. If put cold into a bottle and 
 well corked down, it would keep good several days. 
 
 BARLEY ORANGEADE is made the same way as 
 above, substituting the rind and juice of oranges; the juice 
 of a lemon, in addition, is an improvement, when taken as 
 a refreshing beverage. 
 
 91. A REFRESHING BEVERAGE. — Slice two 
 oranges and one lemon, which put into a jug, with two 
 ounces of sugar-candy, over which pour one quart of 
 boiling water; stir it occasionally until cold, drink it a 
 little at a time, as often as ordered by the medical attend¬ 
 ant. This drink is also very excellent for persons in 
 health, especially in warm weather. 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 47 
 
 92. RASPBERRY VINEGAR BEVERAGE.—Put 
 two tablespoonfuls of raspberry vinegar into a cup, over 
 which pour half a pint of boiling water; when cold, use it 
 as you may be instructed or when necessary; any kind of 
 fruit syrup would answer the same purpose, and be 
 equally as good, that is, currants, cherries, strawberries 
 mulberries, &c^ 
 
 93. A VERY STRENGTHENING DRINK.—Put 
 a teacupful of pearl-barley into a saucepan, with three 
 pints of cold water, the rind of a lemon, and a small piece 
 of cinnamon; boil the wdiole very gently until the barley 
 becomes tender, then strain it through a tine sieve, and 
 sweeten with a spoonful of treacle: if treacle should be 
 objectionable, honey or sugar will do. 
 
 94. FRESH FRUIT WATER.—Fresh fruits, when 
 in season, are very preferable to syrups, wkieh are but 
 seldom well made, except at some of the first confectioners 
 or Italian warehouses. 
 
 Pick a pottle of fresh raspberries or strawberries, which¬ 
 ever you may require, rub them through a sieve into a 
 basin, which mix well with half a pint of syrup, the juice 
 of a lemon, and a quart of spring water; pass it through 
 a fine hair sieve, and put it by in a jug for use: both the 
 syrup and water may either be increased or diminished 
 according to taste. 
 
 Red or white currant waters are made precisely the same, 
 only omitting the lemon, the currants themselves being 
 sufficiently sharp. 
 
 95. CHERRY DRAUGHT.—Choose a pound of good 
 fleshy eherries, from which take the stalk and stones j 
 
48 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 have a pint of syrup boiling, into which throw them, to 
 boil as fast as possible for ten minutes; then take them 
 from the fire, and add a good wine-glassful of Madeira or 
 sherry, and a quart of boiling water; put it into a jug, 
 with a cup over; when cold, pass it through a sieve, and 
 it is ready for use. The wine may be omitted if not 
 required. A drink of the same description may likewise 
 be made from mulberries, but then a little lemon-juice 
 must be added. 
 
 96. ARROW-ROOT WATER.—Put half a gallon of 
 water to boil with two apples, the same as in No. 87, with 
 the addition of a stick of cinnamon; let the whole boil 
 half an hour, then mix two large spoonfuls of arrow-root 
 with half a pint of cold water, very smoothly, and pour it 
 into the boiling water; let the whole boil ten minutes, 
 and pass it through a sieve; when cold, it will be thickish 
 and drink light. 
 
 97. FRENCH HERB BROTH. — This is a very 
 favourite beverage in France, as well with people in a 
 state of health as with invalids, especially in the spring, 
 when the herbs are young and green. Put a quart of 
 water to boil, but have previously prepared about forty 
 leaves of sorrel, a cabbage lettuce, and ten sprigs of 
 chervil, the whole well washed; when the water is boiling, 
 throw in the above, with the addition of a teaspoonful of 
 salt, and half an ounce of fresh, butter; cover your sauce¬ 
 pan close, and let them simmer a few minutes, then pass it 
 through a sieve or colander. This is to be drunk cold, 
 especially in the spring of the year, after the change from 
 winter. I generally drink about a quart per day for a week, 
 at that time ; but if for sick people, it must be made less 
 strong of herbs, and taken a little warm. To prove that 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 49 
 
 it is wholesome, we have only to refer to the instinct which 
 teaches dogs to eat grass at that season of the year. I do 
 not pretend to say that it would suit persons in every 
 malady, because the doctors are to decide upon the food 
 and beverage of their patients, and study its changes, as 
 well as change their medicines. 
 
 98. DRY PLUM BEVERAGE.—Put a quart of water 
 in a saucepan upon the fire, and, when boiling, throw in 
 twelve fresh dry French plums, and let them boil twenty 
 minutes, then pour them in a basin with the liquor to cool; 
 when cold, take out the plums, which put into a basin; 
 add two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and a very small 
 quantity of port wine. They are excellent to eat, and the 
 liquor to drink. 
 
 99. FIGS AND APPLE BEVERAGE. —Have two 
 quarts of water boiling, into which throw six fresh dry figs, 
 previously opened, and two apples, previously cut into six 
 or eight pieces each; let the whole boil together twenty 
 minutes, then pour them together into a basin to cool, and 
 pass through a sieve, drain the figs, which will also be 
 good to eat. 
 
 100. STEWED PLUMS.—Put twelve French plums 
 in a stewpan, with a spoonful of brown sugar, a gill of 
 water, a little cinnamon, and some thin rind of a lemon; 
 let them stew twenty minutes, then pour them in a basin 
 until cold, take them from their syrup and eat them dry. 
 They are sometimes stewed in wine and water, either port, 
 sherry, or claret. 
 
 101. BAKED APPLES are very much used by invalids. 
 Have a common yellow dish, such as you frequently see 
 
50 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 in farmhouses, into which put about twelve apples (pre¬ 
 viously well wiped) and about a gill of water, and put 
 them in a hot oven for half an hour, or rather more should 
 the apples be large; when well done, take them out to 
 get cold upon the dish, and eat them cold, either with 
 powdered lump or moist sugar. 
 
 102. COOLING LEMONADE.—Put a quart of water 
 m a stewpan to boil, into which put two moist dried figs, 
 each split in two; let it boil a quarter of an hour, then 
 have ready the peel of a lemon, taken off rather thickly, 
 and the half of the lemon cut in thin slices; throw them 
 into the stewpan, and boil two minutes longer; pour it 
 into a jug, which cover closely with paper until cold, then 
 pass it through a sieve: add a teaspoonful of honey, and 
 it is ready for use. 
 
 103. IMPERIAL, (« Cooling Drinli for the Spring .)— 
 Two ounces of cream of tartar, two lemons (juice and peel), 
 four ounces of sugar; place in a stone jug, and pour about 
 six quarts of boiling water; allow it to get cold, and 
 bottle for use. Or, instead of sugar, add three table¬ 
 spoonfuls of raspberry vinegar, and six ounces of honey. 
 This is excellent aerated like soda water. Essence of 
 ratafia, or any other, maybe added, with about half a pint 
 of pure spirit at proof, for those accustomed to spirits. 
 
 104. ORANGEADE.—Proceed as for lemonade, but 
 using the whole of the orange, a little of the peel included, 
 sweetening with sugar-candy, and adding a teaspoonful of 
 arrow-root mixed with a little cold water, which pour into 
 the boiling liquid at the same time you put in the orange. 
 The arrow root makes it very delicate. 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 51 
 
 Toast and Water .*—The facility of making this popular drink is probably 
 the cause of its not being well made one time in ten, that is, in private 
 families ; the bread is too much or too little done, or there is too much or 
 not half enough water, or more or less bread ; I venture to say that if any 
 person would take the trouble to go from house to house, where there are 
 patients, and taste toast and water at each, they would not find two of the 
 same flavour, and perhaps not any of it properly made. To make it to per¬ 
 fection, proceed as follows :— 
 
 105. TOAST AND WATER.—Cut a piece of crusty 
 bread, about a quarter of a pound in weight, place it upon 
 a toasting-fork, and hold it about six inches from the fire; 
 turn it often, and keep moving it gently until of a light 
 yellow colour, then place it nearer the fire, and when of a 
 good brown chocolate colour, put it into a jug, and pour 
 three pints of boiling water over; cover the jug until cold, 
 then strain it into a clean jug, and it is ready for use: 
 never leave the toast in it, for in summer it would cause 
 fermentation in a short time. I would almost venture 
 that such toast and water as I have described would keep 
 good a considerable time in bottles. 
 
 The idea that bread must be burnt black to make toast and water is quite 
 a popular delusion, for nothing nourishing could come from it: if your house 
 were burnt to ashes, it would be valueless ; and the same with burnt bread, 
 which merely makes the water black, but the nutriment of the bread, in¬ 
 tended to relieve the chest, has evaporated in smoke by being burnt. 
 
 PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 106. APPLE AND RICE PUDDING.—Boil half an 
 ounce of Carolina rice in a gill of milk until very tender, 
 then add a very small piece of butter, sugar, a little cinna¬ 
 mon, and a grain of salt; then peel, core, and slice a 
 middling-sized apple, which put into a stewpan, with a 
 small piece of butter, a little sugar, and a drop of water, 
 and stew it until tender; when done, put the apple in a 
 
 E 2 
 
52 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 small tart-dish, mix an egg with the rice, which pour over 
 the apple, and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven; it 
 may also be made quite plain, if preferred. 
 
 107. CUSTARD PUDDING.—Boil one pint of milk, 
 ■with a small piece of lemon-peel and half a bay-leaf, for 
 three minutes; then pour these on to three eggs, mix it 
 with one ounce of sugar well together, and pour it into a 
 buttered mould: steam it twenty-five minutes in a stewpan 
 w r ith some water (see No. 115), turn out on a plate and 
 serve. 
 
 108. RICE PUDDINGS.—Wash well two ounces of 
 rice in some water, strain, then put it into a pint and a half 
 of boiling milk, with a small piece of lemon-peel, cinna¬ 
 mon, and half a bay-leaf tied together; let it boil gently, 
 stirring it occasionally until quite tender; then put to it 
 one ounce of butter, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoon¬ 
 ful of sugar, and two eggs; pour it into a buttered tart- 
 dish, and bake it half an hour. 
 
 109. MACARONI PUDDING.—Blanch two ounces of 
 Naples macaroni in some water for eight or ten minutes; 
 strain it, and add it to one pint of boiling milk, in which 
 you have previously boiled a piece of lemon-peel, cinna¬ 
 mon, and one ounce of butter; when the macaroni is 
 quite tender, add two eggs, and sugar enough to sweeten 
 it: steam it one hour in a stewpan, in a buttered tart-dish. 
 
 110. VERMICELLI PUDDING.—Boil one pint of 
 milk, with a piece of lemon-peel, half a bay-leaf, and a 
 piece of cinnamon, then add one ounce of vermicelli; wdien 
 reduced to half, add two eggs, and a little sugar; pour 
 these in a buttered mould, and steam it half an hour. 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 53 
 
 111. TAPIOCA PUDDING.—Boil one pint of milk, 
 with a piece of lemon-peel and a little cinnamon; then 
 add two ounces of tapioca; reduce to half; add two eggs, 
 and one ounce of butter; pour these in a buttered mould, 
 and steam half an hour. 
 
 112. BREAD PUDDING.—Boil one pint of milk, 
 with a piece of cinnamon and lemon-peel; pour it on two 
 ounces of bread-crumbs; then add two eggs, half an 
 ounce of currants, and a little sugar: steam it in a buttered 
 mould for one hour. 
 
 113. CABINET PUDDING.—Boil one pint of milk, 
 with a piece of lemon-peel, pour it on one ounce of sponge 
 biscuit, let it soak half an hour, then add three eggs, half 
 an ounce of currants, and very little sugar: steam it in a 
 buttered mould, lined with raisins, one hour. 
 
 114. BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.—Butter 
 a tart-dish well, and sprinkle some currants all round it, 
 then lay in a few slices of bread and butter; boil one pint 
 of milk, pour it on two eggs well whipped, and then on the 
 bread and butter; bake it in a hot oven for half an hour. 
 
 115. A SMALL BREAD PUDDING.—Cut an ounce 
 of the crumb of bread into thin slices, with the least piece 
 of butter spread over each, which place in a small tart- 
 dish ; then break an egg into a cup, with a teaspoonful of 
 sugar and a little powdered cinnamon, beat well; then add 
 about six tablespoonfuls of boiled milk, mix well together, 
 pour over the bread, and bake in a slow oven, or steam it, 
 if preferred, by standing the dish in a stewpan containing 
 about half a pint of water,—that is, the water should be 
 about half way up to the rim of the dish; set the stewpan 
 
54 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 (covered close) upon the tire, and let it slowly boil about 
 ten minutes or longer, until the pudding is pi*operly set, 
 then take the cover from the stewpan, which let remain a 
 few minutes longer upon the fire; then take out the pud¬ 
 ding, wipe the dish, and serve. 
 
 FISH FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Slips, soles, flounders, whitings, and smelts are the lightest of any fish, 
 and upon that account more to be recommended to invalids in a state of 
 convalescence. 
 
 116. WHITING, PLAIN BOILED.—Put two quarts 
 of water into a small fish kettle, with about an ounce of 
 salt; when boiling, put in the whiting, draw the kettle to 
 the corner of the fire to keep it just simmering, and no 
 more; a whiting of the ordinary size would take about ten 
 minutes; when done, which you can tell by trying with 
 the point of a knife whether it leaves the bone easily, take 
 it up carefully, and dish it upon a clean napkin, with a 
 few sprigs of parsley (if at hand) round; although the 
 parsley is of course useless, as far as the stomach is con¬ 
 cerned, nothing can be more pleasing to an invalid than 
 to see his meals carefully cooked, and invitingly served. 
 
 At any time, I prefer a whiting with the skin on, 
 whether boiled, grilled, or fried; a little butter just 
 melted, with a pinch of salt, and the least drop of lemon- 
 juice added, makes a very excellent sauce for them. 
 Should you purchase your fish in the country, it will of 
 course require cleaning, by opening the belly, and pulling 
 out the gills and interior; but never wash these fish; 
 merely wipe them with a cloth. 
 
 117. BROILED WHITING.—Having cleaned your 
 whiting, and wiped it gently dry with a cloth, flour it all 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 55 
 
 over lightly, rub the gridiron over with a little oil, lay the 
 whiting upon it, and put it over a clear fire, but not too 
 close, turn it carefully three or four times, and when it 
 feels firm to the touch of the finger, it is done; if a large 
 one, it will take about twenty minutes; sprinkle a little 
 salt over, if required, and serve with plain melted butter, 
 with a few drops of essence of anchovies in it. 
 
 118. SAUTEED WHITINGS.—Put some fat or butter 
 in a frying-pan, which place over a clear but moderate fire; 
 have your whiting floured as in the last, and when the fat 
 or butter is melted, lay it in the pan; let it saute slowly 
 until it is done, which try as in either of the last two; 
 when done, drain it upon a cloth, sprinkle a little salt 
 over, and serve. 
 
 If fried, enveloped in bread-crumbs, dip the fish lightly 
 into flour, then egg it all over with a paste brush, and dip 
 in some very fine bread-crumbs, and fry it rather longer, 
 but do not let the fat get black, or it will give the fish a 
 black heavy appearance, and quite spoil the flavour. Fish 
 fried in oil would have a much better appearance than 
 when fried in fat, but probably would be objectionable to 
 a weak stomach. They ought to be completely covered 
 with the fat. 
 
 119. SMALL SOLES or SLIPS may be either boiled, 
 broiled, or fried, as directed for waitings, requiring about 
 the same time to cook; serve precisely the same. 
 
 Smelts are very delicate fish, but ought never to be plain boiled: being 
 confident of the good use they may be turned to as a diet for the sick, I shall 
 here give two receipts for dressing them very plainly yet still very palatably. 
 
 120. SMELTS, BOILED.—Choose them rather large, 
 —if so, two would be sufficient for a meal,—having pre¬ 
 viously drawn and cleansed them, put a gill of water into 
 
56 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 a small stewpan, with a little salt, a saltspoonful of pow¬ 
 dered sugar, and four small sprigs of parsley; when 
 boiling, lay in your smelts, which let simmer live minutes, 
 or more, if larger than usual, keeping the stewpan well 
 covered; then take them out carefully, lay them upon a 
 dish, and pour the broth over; both fish and broth are 
 excellent. They may be cooked the same way in the 
 oven. 
 
 120*. BOILED SMELTS ANOTHER WAY. — 
 Another way is to add a little arrow T -root, mixed with a 
 drop of cold water to the above, when half cooked; it 
 makes it very soothing to the chest. Be extremely careful 
 not to let the fish or liquor burn at the bottom of the stew¬ 
 pan ; there should be about three parts of the quantity of 
 liquor when cooked as you first put in water, allowing one 
 quarter to evaporate whilst boiling. 
 
 121. BROILED SMELTS.—-When cleansed and 
 wiped dry with a cloth, dip them lightly into flour, and 
 put them upon a gridiron over a slow fire, for five or six 
 minutes, turning them carefully when half done; serve 
 plain, or with a little sauce, if allowed, as many patients 
 are forbidden moist food. I can highly recommend any 
 kind of white fish cooked in this manner; and it is well 
 known that nothing in the way of food is more digestible 
 than fish. 
 
 Water souchet of flounders, soles, and slips may also be 
 served to invalids, by proceeding the same as above. 
 
 MEAT FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 Meat, Game, and Poultry. —These, of every kind, for invalids, ought to be 
 served as free from fat as possible. 
 
 122. A MUTTON CHOP.— Choose one from a lean 
 loin of mutton, or if one in the house rather fat, cut the 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 57 
 
 greater part of it off; your chop should be about six 
 ounces in weight, and cut of an equal thickness; lay it 
 upon a table, and beat it lightly with the flat part of your 
 chopper, then lay it upon a gridiron, over a good clear 
 fire; season with a little salt, if allowed, and turn it four 
 or five times whilst broiling; it will require about eight 
 minutes over a good fire, but of course longer over an 
 indifferent one ; if by pressing it with a knife it feels firm, 
 it is done; serve upon a very hot plate, for if partly cold, 
 the least fat would immediately set, and be very unpleasant, 
 especially to a person unwell. 
 
 123. PLAIN MUTTON CUTLET, from the Neck.— 
 An invalid will frequently be tired of a mutton chop ; and 
 for nay own part I must say a cutlet is far superior in 
 flavour, and has a much neater appearance; cut off a rib 
 from the neck, of the same thickness as a mutton chop; 
 cut away the skin upon each side of the bone, to the chine, 
 which chop off; trim away the greater part of the fat, cut 
 a piece at the end of the bone, which scrape off, leaving 
 about half an inch of the bone bare; then beat it lightly 
 with the flat of the chopper; season; broil and serve very 
 hot, as in the last. 
 
 124. STEWED CHOP or- CUTLET.—Put it into a 
 stewpan or small saucepan, with a pint of water, and a 
 little salt and sugar; let it stew as gently as possible from 
 an hour and a half to two hours, skim off all the scum and 
 fat, and the patient may partake of both chop and broth; 
 if seasoning is allowed, put a teaspoonful of pearl-barley, 
 with a little celery, leek, and turnip, cut up very small, 
 into the stewpan with the water, when you first put the 
 chop on, and proceed as before; serve the broth in a soup 
 basin, with the chop in it; should the meat happen to be 
 
58 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 tough, let it stew rather longer. The broth should be 
 reduced to about half a pint. 
 
 125. RUMP STEAK. — The tenderest part of the 
 rump should be selected, about half a pound, not cut too 
 thick, and very even: place it upon your gridiron over a 
 moderate fire, turning it frequently; when done, sprinkle 
 a little salt over. Ten minutes would cook it thoroughly, 
 but if wanted underdone, as in many cases where the 
 patient only sucks the gravy, less time must be allowed. 
 
 126. STEWED BEEF. — Put the same quantity of 
 beef as in the last into a saucepan, with a quart of water, 
 which place over the fire, and when beginning to boil, well 
 skim; then add a little celery, turnip, and carrot, the 
 whole weighing about an ounce, and cut very small; let 
 stew gently about three hours, by which time the broth 
 will be reduced to one quarter; skim all the fat off care¬ 
 fully ; serve the meat upon a plate, and the broth in a 
 basin. 
 
 127. LAMB CHOPS or CUTLETS.— Proceed as 
 just described for mutton, but being more delicate, they 
 will require little more than half the time to cook. 
 
 128. LAMB’S FEET are very nutritious; purchase 
 them ready cleaned; lay them ten minutes in boiling 
 water, by doing which you will be able to draw out the 
 leg-bone with facility; then put them in a ste\Vpan (two 
 would be sufficient,) and pour over a pint of water with 
 which you have mixed smoothly a tablespoonful of flour, 
 and half a teaspoonful of salt; place them upon the fire, 
 stirring frequently until boiling, then add a small onion, 
 with celery, parsley, and parsnip; boil gently for two 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 59 
 
 hours, and when done, serve plain upon a plate, or with a 
 little melted butter and parsley poured over. By using a 
 little white broth from any meat instead of water, you 
 make a delicious soft soup, which may be partaken of 
 freely. 
 
 Calves’ feet are dressed in the same manner, but using 
 a double proportion of everything, and stewing them 
 double the time; they are served precisely the same. 
 
 POULTRY FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 129. ROAST CHICKEN. — Procure a nice plump 
 chicken, which draw and truss, and cut the sinews; pass 
 the spit through under the skewer as usual, and set it down 
 before a clear fire: after being there five minutes, have 
 ready a pat of butter, in the bowl of a wooden spoon, with 
 which mb the chicken all over; if the fire is too fierce, 
 put it back a short distance, that it may roast of a yel¬ 
 lowish-brown colour; when a light smoke arises from the 
 chicken, which will be in about twenty minutes from the 
 time it is put down, it is done; but to be quite sure 
 whether a bird is done, the better way is to press it lightly 
 with your finger and thumb; should it feel quite set, it is 
 sufficiently cooked. 
 
 130. BOILED CHICKEN.—Put a quart of water to 
 boil in a saucepan, with a saltspoonful of salt, and two 
 ounces of butter; when boiling, lay in the chicken, which 
 keep gently simmering for twenty minutes, when it will be 
 done. 
 
 By adding a few vegetables of each description to the 
 water, and straining it when you take out the chicken, you 
 have a very excellent broth either for the sick or healthy, 
 
60 
 
 COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 especially if, after skimming off the fat, you add a little 
 vermicelli, which must be boiled in it five minutes. 
 
 As it is very improbable that a sick person would eat 
 the whole of a chicken at once, I have annexed a few 
 receipts, by which a chicken would suffice for four meals. 
 
 First , put a tablespoonful of rice in a stewpan, with 
 half a pint of light broth; let it boil gently until the rice 
 is in pulp, then put in the wing or leg of the previously- 
 cooked chicken, which let remain to warm about five 
 minutes; should the rice be too dry, add a little more 
 broth; serve the fowl and rice together upon a hot plate. 
 Secondly , if wanted plain, set it in a stewpan, with a few 
 spoonfuls of stock, and let it warm gently. Thirdly , it 
 may be folded in a sheet of paper lightly oiled and 
 warmed very gently upon a gridiron; and, Fourthly , 
 plain broiled upon a gridiron, and served with a little 
 light gravy. 
 
 131. PARTRIDGE.—Proceed in every manner to roast 
 as just directed for the chicken; a young one would re¬ 
 quire about ten minutes, or an old one fifteen, but then the 
 breast only ought to be eaten, whatever remains may be 
 served in either of the ways directed for chickens. 
 
 132. PIGEONS may be roasted the same as partridges, 
 but would not require so long. A pigeon may also be 
 stewed as follows:—Put half a pint of mutton broth into 
 a stewpan, with a pigeon trussed as for boiling, let it stew 
 gently twenty minutes, if young; both the pigeon and 
 broth ought to be partaken of. Pigeons may also be 
 broiled, by cutting them open from the bottom of the breast 
 to the joint of the wings, but not separating them; rub 
 over with a little butter, broil twenty minutes over a 
 moderate fire, and serve with a little gravy. 
 
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. 
 
 61 
 
 133 . LARKS are also very excellent and light food; 
 when cleaned, pass a thin wooden skewer through three 
 or four of them, as many as are required, then broil them 
 a few minutes over a sharp fire, and serve very hot. i ou 
 will find them superior broiled than roasted, and not so 
 
 much trouble. 
 
 134. PULLED FOWL.—With the remainder of a 
 roast or boiled fowl or chicken you may make a very light 
 dish, by pulling off all the flesh with a fork, and putting l 
 into a stewpan, then in another stewpan place all the 
 bones (previously broken small with a chopper), with a 
 little parsley, salt, sugar, and half a pint of water; let it 
 boil gently until the water has reduced to a gill, then 
 strain it over the flesh of the chicken in the other stewpan 
 which place over the fire until quite hot, and serve, shou 
 it be too thin, a small piece of butter and flour rubbed 
 together may be added, and boiled a minute. Old or 
 young fowls may be used, as it is not always convenient 
 to get a young fowl, especially in the country, wtieie 
 everything must be turned to account and properly used: 
 you would proceed with an old fowl the same as for a 
 chicken, but stewing it three times as much, and adding 
 more water in proportion; it would be here impossible to 
 name the exact time required, as the fluctuation is so 
 great, but by feeling the thigh of the fowl with the fingei 
 and thumb, you may ascertain, for if done sufficient y 
 it will feel tender to the touch, and leave the bone with 
 
 ease. 
 
6*2 
 
 CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 LETTER No. VI. 
 
 Deadest Eloise,— I here enclose you the last receipt which I intend to 
 give you for invalids. You may, no doubt, fancy that my diet is extravagant; 
 but let me teach you that when we must pay the doctor’s bill, which I con¬ 
 sider an extra and painful tax upon humanity, it is ours and their duty to try 
 to restore health as soon as possible, and my receipts will, if well coupled 
 with the science of a medical man, cause a prompt restoration to health ; and 
 have the desirable effect of increasing the butcher’s bill by diminishing that 
 of the doctor’s. I must also tell you that I intend this part of our little work, 
 if ever published, to be useful to all classes of society, and that among these 
 receipts, the humble as well as the rich may partake the benefit of them by 
 selecting either according to their means and requirements ; and I am confident 
 that you will agree with me that I have closely studied the rules of economy. 
 
 I shall now, therefore, close the sick-room door, and open the one of the 
 parlour, to witness the merry faces of the million who have abandoned their 
 industrious occupations for the week, to partake, in the family circle, their 
 simple but substantial Sunday meal. When parents of families are blessed 
 by an increase of business according to that of their family, it is there that 
 you will find genuine domestic happiness and natural love ; and let me tell 
 you, dearest, that the sight of a Sunday’s dinner in a tradesman’s house in 
 England is worthy of being depicted by the pencil of the most meritorious 
 artists of the age, and would not disgrace that of a Wilkie, Goodall, or Ab- 
 slom. Behold, sitting round an inviting table four or five of those healthy 
 and generally handsome faces of the young children of Albion, waiting, until 
 after the usual blessing has been invoked by the eldest, with the greatest 
 anxiety to know who is to be the first served, trying to open their eyes as 
 large as their appetites, at the disappearance of a cover removed by a clean 
 country servant, who exposes to their view the immortal piece of roast beef, 
 from which a most excellent exhalation escapes as from a crater of happiness, 
 and which seems to fill the room as well as the hearts of the whole party with 
 joy ; and the yet greater anxiety of the still younger branches of the family, 
 who have cunningly reserved their infantine appetites for the appearance of 
 the grand national dish, and more pleasing to their fancies,—the plum pudding, 
 to which, for the occasion, a few spoonfuls of brandy have been poured on the 
 
CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 63 
 
 disli ; and set on fire the moment of placing it before the mother, who hurries 
 to serve them, in the hope of putting a stop to the unmusical domestic har¬ 
 mony of the little ones, who do not fear to bum their mouths as long as they 
 satisfy their appetites. Having now,*tny dear, given my full and due respect 
 for the comfort of their Sunday’s dinner, I have, in many instances, to com¬ 
 plain of the way most of the industrious classes dine the remainder of the 
 week. I always used to say, when in business, that he who works well 
 deserves to live well,—I do not mean to say extravagantly, but that devoting 
 one hour a day to their principal meal ought to be classified as a matter of 
 business in regard to economy. We, therefore, must be very positive upon 
 this important question, and make them perceive that dining well once or 
 twice a week is really unworthy of such a civilized and wealthy country a3 
 ours, whose provisions cannot be excelled by any other, both in regard to 
 quantity and quality. Yours, &c. Hortense. 
 
 LETTER No. VII. 
 
 My dear Mrs. B.—Your observation upon the way many people live in 
 this country is no doubt very correct, but do you not think that if you were 
 not quite so abrupt on the subject, we should probably be more likely to sue-* 
 ceed in bringing our friends round to your style of management ? of which, 
 for my part, I very much approve. But as it is a matter of importance, I 
 should like you to describe in your next communication what are the prin¬ 
 cipal and most useful joints in a family, and to discourse on them, in pointing 
 out the good to be achieved, and the evils to be avoided. 
 
 Ever yours, &c. Eloise. 
 
 LETTER No. VIII. 
 
 Many compliments to you, my dear Mrs, L. 
 
 At your request I here inclose the list you require, and which will show 
 you how circumscribed the middle classes are in respect to the variation of 
 their meals, in the way of meat and manner of cooking it. I do not dis¬ 
 approve of your idea in wishing me here to give a series or list of those pro¬ 
 visions ; but, on the other hand, I must tell you frankly my opinion, it being 
 a subject which for some years I have made a study, indeed quite a hobby. 
 If I am wrong, let any one who knows better correct me ; you will allow I 
 am always open to conviction and improvement, no matter how trifling, as 
 it often leads to an important one. 
 
64 
 
 CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 I shall therefore name all joints of meat which, though numerous, offer but 
 little variation when continually dressed the same way, and observe that 
 everybody has the bad habit of running only upon a few which are considered 
 the best. They are as follow : 
 
 Those in Beef are the sirloin, ribs, round, silver-side, aitchbone. 
 
 In Mutton—leg, saddle, haunch, loin. 
 
 Lamb—fore-quarter and leg. 
 
 Veal—fillet, loin. 
 
 Pork—leg, sparerib, loin. 
 
 'Every one of these joints are of the most expensive parts, because gene¬ 
 rally used, although many of the other parts are equally as good, as I shall 
 prove to you, in the receipts which I shall write for the dinner, what can be 
 done in the way of made dishes out of those parts which are rarely or never 
 used in this country by the middle classes, which will more clearly develope 
 to you my ideas on the subject. Besides, there is this advantage, that if a 
 small tradesman were to follow these receipts, and buy every other time he 
 goes to the butcher what he now considers a second-class joint, he would not 
 only be conferring a public benefit, but also one on himself, and be the means 
 of diminishing the price of those now considered the first class, which at the 
 present moment bear too high a price in proportion, but which his pride 
 causes him to purchase. 
 
 To prove to you that my argument is correct, look carefully over the in¬ 
 closed list, which contains all the joints that are cut from beef, veal, mutton, 
 lamb, pork, and you will find that ten of the prime are in daily use to one of 
 the other, and principally for a want of the knowledge of cookery, leaving the 
 science of cooking our food to a fierce or slow fire, or plunging our expensive 
 provisions into an ocean of boiling water, which is thrown away, after having 
 absorbed a great portion of the succulence of the meat. Try the receipt for 
 the Pot-au-feu ; taste the broth and eat the meat, and tell me which plan you 
 consider the best. Do not think that I object to our plain joint, because, now 
 and then, I am rather partial to them ; but why not manage to make use of 
 the broth, by diminishing the quantity of water, and simmering them, instead 
 of galloping them at a special railway-train speed ? Were the middle classes 
 only but slightly acquainted with the domestic cookery of France, they would 
 certainly live better and less expensively than at present; very often, four or five 
 different little made dishes may be made from the remains of a large Sunday’s 
 joint, instead of its appearing on the table of a wealthy tradesman for several 
 
CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 65 
 
 days cold, and often unsightly, and backed by a bottle of variegated-coloured 
 pickles, made with pyroligneous acid, which sets one’s teeth on edge merely 
 to think of it, and balanced by a steaming dish of potatoes, which, seen 
 through the parlour window by the customers in the shop, would make them 
 think there wa3 a grand gastronomic festivity taking place at Mr. A.’s or 
 B. ’s, the butterman or greengrocer; this may be excusable once or twice, on 
 a hot summer’s day, with an inviting salad, seasoned with merely salt, pepper, 
 oil, and vinegar, but the continual repetition of that way of living in winter 
 is, I consider, a domestic crime. 
 
 You will, perhaps, say that, in large firms, where forty or fifty, or more 
 young men dine every day, or even in public establishments still more nume¬ 
 rous, many professed cooks would be required to dress the dinner, if my plan 
 were adopted ; not at all, if the kitchen is properly constructed : but in 
 these establishments, joints, of necessity, must be the principal viand, and 
 there is very little left; what there is, is consumed cold for supper; but 
 even there an amelioration might take place, although only a plain joint, 
 either boiled or roasted, roasted or boiled, which is generally the yearly bill 
 of fare, and so simple, yet seldom well done, and often badly, which, in a 
 large establishment, must create great waste, and make bad food out of good 
 meat, and that for want of care or a little more knowledge, which may appear 
 to you but a trifling matter, but not so to thousands of poor old people, with 
 toothless gums and fatigued stomachs, made comfortable within walls erected 
 by the good feelings of government or by public charity. I have often 
 thought, when visiting these establishments, that a professed cook ought 
 to be appointed, as well as a medical man, to visit all such in the metropolis, 
 not only to inspect the quality of the provisions, but superintend the arrange¬ 
 ments of the dietary table, and see that the viands are properly cooked, and 
 thus correct the lamentable ignorance which exists at the present day; I 
 am confident that tons of meat are daily wasted in such institutions through¬ 
 out the country, which, if well employed, would feed a great part of the 
 standng poor of the United Kingdom. The same system ought to be adopted 
 in all the provincial towns ; and, were it in existence, we should not have 
 to deplore such lamentable scenes which we had latterly to witness at 
 Tooting, where, no doubt, many were to blame ; for by the calculation I 
 have made, the allowance, though rather limited, was amply large enough 
 to allow for good provisions, and leave sufficient remuneration for any reason¬ 
 able and not covetous man. Why should not these poor children be watched 
 
 F 
 
66 
 
 CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE . 
 
 over, and made as c omfortable in every respect as the wish of those who pay 
 to support them requires ? Besides, it has an effect upon after generations ; 
 for upon the food at the period of growth depends the nature of the mind at 
 a more advanced age, as well as the stature of the man. Do we not evince 
 our care to objects of the brute creation, and feed, with the greatest atten¬ 
 tion, the racehorse ? Compare him with others of his species not so humanely 
 treated, and note the difference: so it is with the human race ; and I might 
 almost say the prosperity of a country depends upon the food of its youth. 
 You will perhaps think that I am rather sharp in my remarks, and probably 
 longer than is required, but still it will be gratifying to both of us, should 
 we find that these remarks prove beneficial to such establishments as above 
 mentioned ; and it is only by giving notoriety to these important details, and 
 being positive in exposing the truth, that we can be believed and followed, 
 and you must not mind displeasing the few, if you are to be useful to the 
 many. For ever, &c., Hortense. 
 
 LETTER No. IX. 
 
 / . j 
 
 My Dear Hortense,—I received your last observations, which, on first 
 seeing, I thought too long, but after having read them over again, I am 
 convinced that I shall not be able to shorten them ; at all events, there is a 
 great deal of truth in them, and, as you justly say, they are the observations 
 of a person who has constantly studied domestic comfort and economy; I 
 shall therefore copy them in the journal just as you sent them to me. 
 
 Truly yours, Eloise. 
 
 LETTER No. X. 
 
 My Dear Eloise, —I am glad to hear tlxat you will not alter any of my 
 last remarks sent, because I assure you I wrote with a full conviction that I 
 was right, and from facts which experience alone can engrave on the memory; 
 but, however, we will now proceed: but I think it will be necessary to alter 
 onr original intention, namely, in order to save any confusion, to class all 
 the receipts for the dinner together, and thus form a large bill of fare, and 
 follow, on a small plan, what M. Soyer, of the Reform Club, has done on a 
 large scale, in his “ Gastronomic Regenerator,” by which the most inex¬ 
 perienced hands may easily provide a large or small dinner adapted for all 
 
CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE. 
 
 67 
 
 classes, without committing a blunder, and thus make a selection from soups', 
 different dishes of fish, and an innumerable number of removes; entrees, 
 roasts, savoury dishes, vegetables, sweets, dessert, &c .; and, having chosen 
 one or two of each series, by referring to the receipt, an idea of their cost, 
 within a few pence of the market-price, may be gained. 
 
 Let me know, dear, by return of post, if you approve of my new idea, as 
 it is rather deviating from our original plan; but observe, that having so 
 very distinctly given the Breakfast Receipts, and those also for Invalids, it 
 will be more clearly understood than by repeating the same over and over, 
 which would be unavoidable, if we follow our first proposition. 
 
 Yours truly, in haste, HoRTENSE. 
 
 LETTER No. XI. 
 
 My Dear Hortense, —Never were you inspired by a better idea respecting 
 your new plan ; it is so clearly explained, that I fancy our labour is over ; 
 but I must tell you that, on the receipt of your last, I wrote to M. Soyer, to 
 inquire if he would object to our taking a few hints from his “Kitchen at 
 Home,” which forms the last part of his work. His answer was immediate*, 
 short, and as follows : 
 
 “Dear Madam, —It would be entirely deviating from the preface of my 
 
 * Gastronomic Regenerator’ to refuse you anything in my power; and as 
 your simple demand lies within that scope, you are quite welcome to take a 
 few hints, if you require them for your little work, from the part entitled 
 
 * My Kitchen at Home.’ 
 
 “ Wishing your exertions may be well appreciated, I am, dear madam, 
 most sincerely, your humble and devoted, 
 
 “Reform Club.” “ A. Soyer. 
 
 As you have his book, you, no doubt, know to which part he alludes. He 
 says, in his preface, that he has made it a rule never to refuse ladies anything 
 in his power ; so far he has kept his word with us : so you may, dearest, if 
 you require it, make use of his offer. I shall expect, by the next post, the 
 commencement of the Dinner Receipts, which I am confident you will make 
 as simple and as short as possible. With kindest regard, yours, 
 
 P.S.—How is the young infant ? Is he better ? 
 
 F 2 
 
 Eloise. 
 
08 
 
 ROASTING. 
 
 LETTER No. XII. 
 
 Dearest Eloise,— I cannot but admire your anxiety to begin the Dinner 
 Receipts, which, I must agree with you, will certainly form the most important 
 and principal part of our Domestic correspondence ; but previously I wish to 
 impress upon your mind the foundation and indispensable basis of cookery. 
 
 No palace has ever been erected without the proper material for the 
 purpose, and the requisite knowledge of the capability and utility of that 
 material. In the like way, every science has its foundation from whence it 
 springs ; but perhaps none so complicated as the science of cookery, in 
 pursuit of which every nation and clime differ in their mode, in order to 
 produce the same results with nearly the same materials, no matter how 
 those results may differ ; yet there is no other plan than the following for 
 them to adopt—they are, Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Braising, 
 Drying, Sauteing, Broiling, which I shall describe ; and I am confident that, 
 with your intelligence, you will not fail of appreciating them, as well as the 
 minute description of the condiments—and especially that useful element, 
 Water, which assists so much in the proper organization of the materials 
 for producing our food. 
 
 When you are acquainted with these rudiments, I shall then forward you 
 the receipts adapted for Dinners. 
 
 P.S.—You kindly inquire after the baby. I am happy to inform you that 
 he is better, and entirely free from pain ; and that it was a false alarm 
 about la petite rougeole. 
 
 Trusting that you will not be tired with my long correspondence. 
 
 Believe me, dear Eloise, yours, 
 
 Hortense. 
 
 Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Braising, Frying, 
 
 Sauteing, Broiling. 
 
 ROASTING being the most general in use, we will first describe it, 
 although it is not that which was first put in practice in cooking, it being 
 evidently an improvement on broiling : we can easily understand how, in 
 the primitive times, when man, finding that his food got covered with the 
 ashes from the fire with which he cooked his meat, would invent a species of 
 grate upon which he could raise the fire, and so cook his meat before it; 
 this early mode of cooking has continued, in many countries, up to the present 
 day, and even in London to within a few years ; for I remember seeing, in 
 
BAKING—BOILING—STEWING. 
 
 69 
 
 the old Goldsmith’s Hall, a fireplace, consisting of stages, on which was laid 
 the wood, and when the meat, &c. was spitted and arranged before it, the 
 wood was lighted, and a man turned the spits. (It was, no doubt, from 
 arranging the wood thus in stages, that the name of range was derived.) In 
 many noblemen’s castles and ecclesiastical establishments, dogs were kept to 
 turn the spit, from whence we have those of the name of turnspit; whilst in 
 others, where there happened to be a person of a mechanical turn of mind, 
 they applied a water-wheel to the purpose, and the water from it formed a 
 stream in the kitchen, which served as a reservoir for live fish. Different 
 opinions exist as to the mode and time required for roasting, but this must 
 all depend upon the nature of the fire and the meat. In the Receipts will 
 be found the time which each requires. My plan is to make up as large a 
 fire as the nature of the grate will allow, because I can place my joint near 
 or not, as may be required, and thus obtain every degree of heat. 
 
 A new plan of Roasting by Gas has latterly come into use, and from the 
 cheapness and cleanliness of the process is likely to become a great favourite. 
 
 BAKING is a branch of the art of cooking which, although one of the 
 oldest, is the least understood. (As I shall have to refer to this subject again, 
 I will give the reason why in a future letter.) It is performed in various 
 kinds of air-tight chambers, called ovens, the best of which have the same 
 form as in the time of the Egyptians. Of late years an improvement has 
 been effected in the construction of the oven, and to heat it by hot water. 
 One of the first was erected by M. Soyer, in Dublin. Previous to the art of 
 baking being practised, boiled pulse and corn were the food of the people ; even 
 Rome contained no bakers until near six hundred years after it was founded. 
 Great improvements were made, some fifty years since, by Count Romford 
 in the construction of ovens for baking of meat, called roasting ovens, 
 which caused great economy in the expenditure of fuel; and, in large public 
 establishments, where a number of the same kind of joints are required, it 
 is the best plan of cooking. In the Receipts will be found the time required 
 by each for baking, but in the general way, for meat, hot ovens are the 
 best; for poultry, not so hot as meat; and pastry, according to its kind. In 
 using dishes or utensils for the oven, they ought, if of metal, to be of galvanized 
 iron, and separate ones for meat and fish. 
 
 BOILING is the next branch of the art which is of the most importance 
 and appears the most simple, yet, at the same time, it is the most difficult; 
 this is a subject upon which, if I were to dilate, would occupy a good quarto 
 
70 
 
 BRAISING—FRYING. 
 
 volume ; it is one of those easy things which it is supposed everybody can do, 
 no attention is paid to it, and therefore generally done badly. According 
 to the way in which it is done, meat may be rendered hard and tough, 
 or tender, lose or retain its flavour or nourishment. Great difference of 
 opinion exists amongst medical men which are the easiest of digestion— 
 roasted or boiled meats. I say it is a subject quite impossible to decide, as 
 it must depend upon the different constitutions and climate ; for we might 
 as well say that the food of the Esquimaux is adapted for the native of Italy. 
 
 STEWIN G ought to be the best understood, on account of its economy; 
 pieces of coarse meat, subjected to stewing, if properly done, become tender, 
 as the gelatinous parts become partly dissolved: it should be done slowly, 
 the pan partly uncovered, and frequently skimmed. Great cleanliness should 
 be observed in all the vessels used for stewing. 
 
 BRAISING is the next and most important part of the art of cooking, 
 and, like the saute, belongs entirely to the French school from which it 
 takes its name, braise being the remains of wood burnt in the oven, or live 
 charcoal: this plan of cookery requires the action of the fire under and over 
 the braising pan, which is air-tight, in order that the aromatic flavour arising 
 from its contents may be imbibed by the meat or poultry, and give it that 
 succulence so much esteemed by epicures. The braise is put on the cover, 
 which in some cases, is made deep on purpose to hold it. Its origin is stated 
 to be owing to a gastronomic society which was formerly in existence in Paris, 
 whose object was to benefit and improve the art of cookery, and who offered 
 a reward of a silver gridiron to any culinary artist who would discover a new 
 mode of dressing a turkey. Although a gridiron was, no doubt, intended to 
 be used, yet a young artist named La Gacque, warmed by the offer, directed 
 his imagination to quite a different mode, and used the pan instead of the 
 gridiron, and thus composed the braise, which was unanimously approved 
 of by that scientific, gastronomic, and epicurean body, who awarded him the 
 prize. The chief art in braising is to do it slowly, taking care that the 
 ingredients are well-proportioned, receipts for which will be found in their 
 proper place. 
 
 FRYING.—Of all the apparently simple modes of cookery there is none 
 more so than that of frying, but yet how rare to meet with it done properly. 
 I believe it is to be attributed, in a great measure, to the idea that to do it 
 well is expensive. I have therefore made a series of experiments upon a plan 
 such as may be followed in every private house, and I am convinced that to 
 
SAUTEING. 
 
 71 
 
 do it well is cheaper than doing it badly; but, in the first place, we ought to 
 consider, What is frying ? It is the insertion of any substance into boiling 
 oil, or grease, by which the surface of that substance becomes carbonized, 
 and the heat which effects this object is sufficient to solidify the albumen and 
 gelatine, or, more commonly speaking, until cooked ; to do this properly, 
 the substance ought to be covered by the liquid, so that the heat acts all 
 over it at the same time, or otherwise the osmazome, or gravy, will be dried 
 out of that part which is not covered, and the succulence and flavour of the 
 viand lost; or, should the liquid not be of that degree of heat which would 
 carbonize the surface on the moment of its immersion, it would then enter 
 into the substance, render it greasy, and destroy its flavour, which no degree 
 of heat afterwards could remedy. The articles which are to be fried are 
 generally those which have a coating of materials (such as bread-crumbs and 
 batter) which are quickly carbonized, and thus form a crust which prevents 
 the grease penetrating, concentrates the liquids, and preserve the flavour of 
 the article ; the carbonization once effected, the fire should be immediately 
 moderated, particularly if the article is large, in order that the interior may 
 become properly solidified. All articles properly fried are generally much 
 liked, as they are agreeable to the eye, and afford a pleasing variety. 
 
 The plan that I recommend you to adopt is, to obtain an iron or copper pan 
 long enough for a good-sized sole, and 6 to 8 inches deep, and fill three to 
 four inches of it with fat—the skimmings of the stock-pot, or, if that should 
 not be sufficient, the kidney fat of beef, cut up, melted, and strained. In 
 wealthy establishments, lard, and, in some, bacon-fat melted, is used, and, 
 for some articles, olive oil, which can only be used once; but in our less 
 luxurious homes I think the above is sufficient, besides it has the advantage 
 of not requiring that great attention which the other does. When you have 
 the fat on, before immersing the substance you intend to fry, see that it is 
 sufficiently hot by dipping your finger (not in the fat), but in a little water, 
 and then hold it over the fat, so that a few drops go into it ; if it spits and 
 throws back the water, it is sufficiently hot ; or, throw in a small dice of 
 bread and take it out immediately ; if it is firm or coloured, it is hot enough: 
 or, in frying fish, before putting it in, lay hold of the head and dip the end 
 of the tail, and, if it crisps it, then let the remainder go in. I have found, 
 if due attention is paid to the pan to prevent it from burning, forty articles 
 may be fried in it before it wants renewing ; and I am certain it will be 
 found cheaper than the common way of putting a little fat into the frying- 
 
72 
 
 SAUTEING. 
 
 pan and turning the sole over and over, for you are then almost certain of 
 sending the grease up to the table, where it is not wanted. When the fat 
 is not used, it should be emptied, whilst hot, through a sieve, into an earthen 
 pipkin, and covered with paper to prevent the dust going in it. For the 
 purpose of frying, an iron wire-basket, with a handle, is used, in which the 
 object to be cooked is placed, and thus inserted in the liquid. The cost of 
 this instrument is trifling. 
 
 SAUTEING.—You will perceive, dearest, by the following, that the word 
 fried is often wrongly used in cookery instead of the word saute, which pro¬ 
 cess is totally different, and produces quite another effect on food. Saute 
 means anything cooked in a very small quantity of butter, oil, lard, or fat, 
 on one side of the article at a time, whilst the other requires about a hundred 
 times more of the above-named materials to cook properly. You will see, in 
 these remarks, that it is not frying a pancake, omelette, or still less a chop, 
 steak, or cutlet, but that they are sauteed ; and how to explain that word, 
 to use it instead of the misapplied word fry, puzzles me considerably, as I 
 am quite ignorant of its origin as regards its application to cookery. All 
 the researches I have made in English and French Dictionaries and Encyclo¬ 
 paedias have not enlightened me in the least on the subject. In French, it 
 means to jump, hop, skip, as understood by boys at school, or by the grass¬ 
 hopper tribe, called in French sauterelles, from the word sauter, to jump. 
 I well remember at our school we had a French emigre for a dancing-master, 
 who used to get into a passion when we did not dance to his professional 
 taste; and used to say, shaking his powdered wig, holding his fiddle in 
 one hand and his bow in the other, making all kinds of grimaces and con¬ 
 tortions, which reminded me of the principal figure in the group of the 
 Laocoon,—“Mon Dieu, mon Dieu, young miss, vous sautez tres bien, mais 
 vous dansez fort malwhich means, “You jump very well, but you dance 
 very badly.” It also reminds me of an expression made by a friend of our* 
 from Havre, who was on a visit to us last November. Seeing some Guy 
 Fawkes carried about the street, he asked me what it meant; when I told 
 him, that in the year 1605 an attempt was made to destroy by gunpowder 
 
 the king and parliament in the House of Lords, as well as-. “Oui, 
 
 oui, madam ; I know—I remember reading of it in English history ! it was 
 that little brute qui a voulut faire saute,r le Parlement,” replied he very 
 quickly. “ Sauter, sauter,” I said; “ no, sir, not saute—blowup.” “Oui, 
 oui, madame, I know—it is the same thing.” “Same thing!” replied I. 
 
BROILING. 
 
 73 
 
 This of course puzzled my culinary imagination still more ; and I perceived, 
 that if the word was translated to his meaning, it would sound most absurd 
 and ridiculous ; as, for example, on being at a festive board, and a polite 
 young gentleman, or even your own husband, might gallantly offer to give 
 you a blow-up cutlet, instead of a cotelette saute, as they say in fashionable 
 circles. I can easily conceive, that if the cotelette was blown up, it would 
 stand a chance of coming down on the other side, thus saving the cook the 
 trouble ; but if Guy Fawkes had unfortunately succeeded, it would have 
 produced quite another effect. Having failed in my literary researches, I 
 tried to find it in practice. I therefore went to my kitchen, and put two 
 spoonfuls of oil in a saute pan; I took a nice spring chicken prepared for 
 broiling, put it on the fire ; and as the fire began to act upon it, the oil 
 began to jump, and also slightly the chicken. I then perceived that the 
 way my French friend used the word was right; and that, after all, there 
 was not a such a great difference in Guy Fawkes’s plan of cooking the Parlia¬ 
 ment, and that of a cutlet or chicken ; for both were doomed to destruction, 
 the one by falling in awful ruins on the fire, and the other devoured by a 
 ravenous stomach on the dinner-table. Now, dearest, having found no 
 means of translating it to my satisfaction, I see no other plan but to adopt 
 it amongst us, and give it letters of naturalization, not for the beauty of the 
 word, but for its utility. The process of sauteing is at once quick, simple, 
 and economical, and to be well done furnishes a pleasing article of food. 
 The art of doing it well consists in doing it quickly, to keep the gravy and 
 succulence in the meat, which a slow process would nullify ; it is of course 
 confined to small articles of every kind of food. 
 
 BROILING is, without doubt, the earliest and most primitive mode of 
 cookery, it being that which would present itself to man in a state of nature. 
 It is one of the easiest parts of cookery, and therefore should be done well; 
 it entirely depends upon the fire, which must be exceedingly clear, and the 
 best gridiron is that having round bars, which should be placed slanting over 
 the fire, to prevent the fat going into it; the bars should be greased, and the 
 gridiron should be placed on the fire to get hot before the object to be 
 cooked is placed on it. I have heard that great difference of opinion exists 
 in cookery books upon the proper broiling of a steak, whether it should be 
 turned only once or often. My plan is to turn it often, and my reason is, 
 that, if turned but once, the albumen and the fibrine of the meat get charred, 
 and the heat throws out the osmazome or gravy on the upper side, which, 
 
74 
 
 CONDIMENTS. 
 
 when turned over, goes into the fire ; by turning it often, so as at first only 
 to set the outside, the gravy goes into the centre, and it becomes evenly done 
 throughout. (See “ Soyer’s Mutton Chop.”) As regards the thickness of the 
 meat to be broiled, that depends in a great measure on the intensity of the 
 fire, but the quicker the better, and also the sooner it is eaten after taken 
 from the fire the better it will be. I have latterly, in broiling rump-steaks, 
 added that which, by a great many, is considered an improvement; it is, on 
 turning them the last time, to dredge them out of a dredger with fine holes, 
 in which has been placed four table-spoonfuls of fine biscuit or rusk-powder, 
 one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, a saltspoonful of either 
 eschalot-powder or mushroom-powder, or finely-pulverized salts of celery, 
 well mixed together, and the steak to be placed in a veiy hot dish, with a 
 little mushroom-catsup, and a small piece of butter, and served imme¬ 
 diately. 
 
 ON CONDIMENTS. 
 
 There is one class of materials which are always in constant use in the 
 kitchen—these are the condiments; without these, soups, sauces, and all 
 made dishes, would be insipid; and the judicious application of them con¬ 
 stitutes the good cook. 
 
 If all kinds of condiments were of the same quality—that is, if all salt, 
 pepper, and mustard, &c., were alike, receipts might be given as in a Phar¬ 
 macopoeia, with distinct measures for each ; but as nothing differs so much 
 as these simple condiments, everything must be left to the palate of the 
 cook, and on him or her alone depends the flavour of the alimentary 
 substances partaken of. 
 
 Of all the condiments, that most general in use is SALT ; in fact, nothing 
 is perfect without it; the health of every individual depends upon it, being 
 an ingredient in our blood ; it is as much required to be partaken rf as food 
 or drink; by many it is supposed to be only required to excite the organs of 
 taste—if so, other condiments could be used, equally as exciting; but salt 
 has a far higher destiny, and the great Author of all has bountifully pro¬ 
 vided the whole human race, in every clime and country, with it ; even on 
 those continents far away from the shores washed by the briny ocean, we 
 find it in springs, and in crystal globules encrusting the earth. By all 
 
CONDIMENTS. 
 
 75 
 
 species of the human race with which we are acquainted upon the face of the 
 globe, it is partaken of one way or the other; and although its use is 
 beneficial, yet, if partaken of too largely, it causes disease and death. 
 
 Its composition consists of two elementary principles, earth and water, 
 and is chemically known as muriate of soda, being a combination of soda 
 and muriatic acid. Its use as an antiseptic, and as a condiment, are too well 
 known to be repeated here. 
 
 Rock Salt is the unpurified salt, as dug from the mines. This is purified 
 by boiling, &c., and is crystallized by heat. 
 
 Bay Salt is the coarse large crystal salt, taking its name from the salt that 
 formerly used to be made in pits by the overflow or letting in of the sea at 
 the head of Bays, and which was evaporated by the heat of the sun. 
 Almost all the fish cured in France at the present day is by this kind of 
 salt, the duty upon foreign salt being so high. 
 
 PEPPER, so extensively used at present in Europe, may be said to be but 
 a modern custom. We find in ancient MS. receipts, still extant, that, 
 previous to the introduction of pepper, many plants, natives of England, such 
 as saffron, &c., were used, and which even continued down to modern times, 
 until this West Indian fruit became more general and easy of attainment.* 
 The plant itself is a climbing one (piper nigrum,) and exceedingly pretty 
 when the fruit is upon it. The difference between the two peppers, black 
 and white, is, that the berry is gathered with the skin or pulp around the 
 stone, and that which is intended for black pepper is allowed to remain on, 
 whilst that intended for white pepper is blanched and rubbed until the skin 
 comes off. There is no doubt but that in the West, where hot dishes are so 
 much in vogue, and where large quantities of this spice are employed, that 
 there would be found some difference in the flavour—the black being more 
 acrid than the white. In all dark sauces use the black pepper. 
 
 LONG PEPPER, the fruit of the piper longum, a plant very similar to the 
 former, and, if possible, it has a more aromatic flavour than the black pepper. 
 
 * It is a singular circumstance that this very small fruit should be the 
 cause of England possessing one of the largest portions of her dominions. In 
 the reign of Elizabeth, and during the war with Spain, pepper, which had 
 then become an article of necessity, rose to an extravagant price, and to 
 obtain it cheaper, the Queen granted Letters Patent to certain merchants 
 to trade to the East Indies, which was the origin of the present East India 
 Company. 
 
76 
 
 CONDIMENTS. 
 
 I doubt if pepper was known to the Romans. If so, it would have been 
 known in Egypt, where we find no trace of it, although some authors have 
 considered it as the ammonium of the ancients. 
 
 ALLSPICE, or, as it was formerly called, Pimenta, is another of those 
 productions of those climes near the Equator, which has come so much into 
 use into the habits of Europeans. It is the fruit of the pimenta vulgaris. That 
 which is the freshest is the best; as the aromatic oil which it contains is not 
 dissipated by keeping. The essential oil which it contains can be used in 
 very small quantities in cookery, but should not be subjected to long boiling, 
 or it would lose its flavour. 
 
 GINGER is the root of a plant, a native of the East Indies and Brazils. 
 It has also become naturalized in the West India Islands. The plant grows 
 in moist places, and is of a reed-like form, bearing a yellow flower. The root, 
 when fresh, should be of a light green, solid and heavy. A spongy or 
 woolly root should be avoided. The virtues of ginger chiefly consist in a volatile 
 oil which it possesses. This is best obtained by bruising the root, and 
 making an infusion in spirits of wine or boiling water in a closed bottle ; 
 or, if thinly sliced and infused in vinegar, is pleasant in a salad. The 
 way in which it is usually employed in cookery is by having the root 
 desiccated by the heat of the sun until perfectly dry and hard, and then 
 powdered till its aromatic oil is lost. It should be more often used in 
 cookery than what it is. In 1845-6, those pioneers of colonial produce, 
 Messrs Keeling, had large importations of the fresh root, but not being 
 appreciated, it has ceased. It should be used as a condiment as well as for 
 dessert. 
 
 CLOVES are the buds of a flower, not arrived at maturity, of an East 
 Indian tree, called caryophillus aromaticus. This, in common with many 
 other buds of flowers of various kinds, contains a large quantity of essential 
 oil. It has a very pungent, aromatic smell. Its nature is stimulating. It 
 should not be boiled too long, or otherwise its flavour is lost in evaporation. 
 
 NUTMEG is the interior of a fruit belonging to a tree, a native of the 
 Islands of the Eastern Archipelago, called Banda, and known in botany as 
 the myristica moschata . It is strongly aromatic, and very volatile, and con¬ 
 sidered agreeable. It is used in powder, and not subjected to much heat, 
 which would cause it to lose its qualities, which are heating and slightly 
 irritating, and facilitate the digestion ; but should be used moderately, 
 particularly by those whose nerves are not over strong. 
 
CONDIMENTS. 
 
 77 
 
 MACE.—This is the skin which covers the shell containing the nutmeg. 
 It is cut into small pieces and dried. This is more often used in cookery 
 than the nutmeg, as its essential oil and aromatic flavour is not so soon 
 evaporated, but penetrate into the substances with which it may be em¬ 
 ployed. Its qualities are somewhat similar to the nutmeg. The essence may 
 be employed to advantage in cookery. 
 
 CAYENNE is the dried pod of the well-known plant, the capsicum, now 
 so often reared in hot-houses. It is, however, a native of the East and 
 West Indies, and South America. It ought to be of a very pungent nature, 
 and of a strongly acrid flavour. The best ought to be of an orange colour. 
 There are several kinds of capsicums. Those known in this country are, the 
 capsicum annum, or annual capsicum ; the capsicum grossum, or hell pepper j 
 and the capsicum cerasiforme, or cherry pepper. The pods of these are 
 frequently pickled. The essence of cayenne, by infusing in spirit, is a very 
 excellent plan of seasoning different kinds of dishes. 
 
 CINNAMON is the under-bark of a tree, the laurus cinnamomum, a 
 species of bay, with leaves like laurel, found in many East India Islands, 
 but chiefly in Ceylon. It possesses a very fine aromatic flavour and smell. 
 When moderately used, is a very fine, elegant addition to our culinary art. 
 The essential oil, when extracted, is better to use than the bark itself. 
 
 This tree bears a fruit similar in shape to the acorn, but smaller. It neither 
 smells nor tastes; but, upon boiling in water, yields an oil which, on be¬ 
 coming cold, is as hard as tallow : it is used as an ointment, and also to burn. 
 The outside of the root of this tree yields camphire and oil of camphire. 
 
 CASSIA is also a bark of a similar kind of tree to the cinnamon, the 
 laurus cassia. It does not contain so much flavour as cinnamon ; but the 
 aromatic qualities are very similar. Its oil is often sold for that of cinnamon. 
 
 CASSIA BUDS are the pods of the seed of the cinnamon tree. They 
 contain an oil equal in flavour and pungency to the cinnamon. They are not 
 often used in cookery, their value not being generally known. 
 
 MUSTARD is the powder of the seed of the plant, the sinapis nigra. It 
 grows wild in many places, and can be cultivated in almost any soil. It is 
 of a strong pungent nature, and is difficult to concentrate. It should be 
 mixed with cold water and salt. It derives its name from the French 
 moutarde, who derive it from the Latin of multum ardet, which became 
 corrupted into moult arde. In France they prepare it in a variety of ways ; 
 but it is not our province here to speak about them. That which is called 
 
78 
 
 CONDIMENTS. 
 
 Durham is generally considered the best. Its name originated from the circum¬ 
 stance of that being the first place where mustard was ground like that in use 
 at the present day. Mustard is a condiment easily adulterated; and particular 
 care should be used in selecting of it. There is likewise the seed of a plant 
 which we use greatly in salads, but which differs altogether from the above. 
 The plant is known as the sinapis alba. The seed produces a white powder, 
 and not so strong as the yellow. The moderate use of mustard is good, 
 particularly to feeble stomachs ; and, if more frequently used than it is, 
 would obviate the necessity of using the chasse caffe to assist the feeble 
 digestion. 
 
 ONIONS, a bulbous root, so much used in cookery, is a native of this 
 country, but grows to a large size in warm and moist climates ; but the 
 pungent flavour and aroma is not then so great. By some it is eaten in a 
 raw state ; and if partaken of freely, its effects pervade the whole system, 
 and the person who uses them may be known at some distance, from the 
 peculiar odour which belongs to the root. Its moderate use is wholesome, 
 being nourishing, and correcting the acidity of the bile. It is also good 
 against many diseases of the skin; but should never be partaken of too 
 freely by weak stomachs. There are several sorts. The common, called 
 the allium cepa ; the Gaelic, allium stavium ; the Shalot, allium ascaloni - 
 cum ; the Leek, the allium porrum ; the Rocambole, the allium scordo- 
 prasum ; the Chive, the allium chcenoprasum. The manner of using then?, 
 and the way in which they are employed, are given in the various receipts. 
 
 Onions have been used in cookery from a very early period; and in Spain 
 and Portugal form the principal food of the lower classes—being, from the 
 nature of the climate, much milder than in this country. 
 
 The next articles among the condiments are the herbs; amongst these, 
 MARJORAM is that most in use ; it is a herb which contains a large quan¬ 
 tity of what may be called essential oil, which is extracted in cooking, and 
 imparts its flavour to the viands in which it may be used. There are several 
 kinds of marjoram in use, but that known as the pot marjoram, origanum 
 onites, when well cultivated, is the best for general use : there is the sweet 
 marjoram, origanum marjorana ; the winter sweet marjoram, origanum 
 heracloticum ; and the common marjoram, origanum vulgare, which grows 
 wild in this country. The essence of this herb may be used in cookery ; but 
 the more common plan is to dry it for use, but should be used fresh when 
 attainable. 
 
CONDIMENTS. 
 
 79 
 
 SAYORY.—There are two kinds, the winter and summer; the latter con¬ 
 tains the most flavour—it can be easily dried and bottled lor keeping. 
 
 BASIL is also a herb in great use ; it is not a native of this country, but 
 yet grows to great perfection if well cultivated. The aromatic smell which 
 it possesses is very similar to cloves : there are two kinds, the sweet basil, 
 ocymum basilicum; and the least basil, ocymum minimum. The first pos¬ 
 sesses the most flavour and smell. 
 
 THYME.—There are two, the lemon, thymus citriodorus, and the common 
 thyme, thymus vulgaris; the first is the best to use in all dishes wherever 
 this herb is required. 
 
 PENNYROYAL is not much in use in cookery, but can be used where 
 mint cannot be had. 
 
 MINT.—Spearmint or common mint is that which is most in use ; it 
 should never be used in large quantities. Some of it infused in vinegar, and 
 the vinegar afterwards used with a salad, gives a fine flavour and a novelty 
 to that dish, and is used in vinegar with lamb. 
 
 SAGE is an important herb, and by many considered an agreeable condi¬ 
 ment ; there are several kinds; that whose leaves have a purple tinge is 
 considered best for culinary use. 
 
 PARSLEY, although at present so prominent in use in our kitchens, was 
 unknown to our forefathers ; it is only within a century that it has become 
 so general: it was introduced into this country from Italy. There are three 
 varieties, the common or plain-leaved, the curled or double-leaved, and the 
 broad-leaved; the curled is the best-looking, but has not so much flavour 
 as the common ; the broad-leaved is used for its root, which is excellent, cut 
 up thinly in soup, &c. It may be obtained all the year. To keep it well, 
 it should be dried and cut up, and placed in well-corked bottles, but should 
 only be used when fresh cannot be procured. 
 
 TARRAGON is not so much used as it ought to be ; if used more in soup, 
 instead of the stronger herbs, it would be liked; but great care must be 
 observed in using of it, as its aromatic qualities are quickly dissipated by 
 heat. It is a native of the north of Europe, and known in botany as the 
 artemisia dracunculus. 
 
 CLARY is a plant of the sage kind ; its leaves are sometimes used to 
 flavour soups, and is liked by a few. 
 
 PENNEL may be used very often with advantage; it is, however, rarely 
 used but with fish. 
 
80 
 
 CONDIMENTS. 
 
 CELERY, which is now grown to such perfection in England, is the cul¬ 
 tivated wild plant known as smallage. Celery is a great deal used >a 
 cookery, but it should not be subjected to too long boiling; if its flavour is 
 required, and no root to be obtained, the seed of the Smallage can be used 
 instead. It is generally supposed that the roots and leaves of smallage 
 are poisonous ; we would not recommend them to be used, as the seed can 
 always be obtained, and the flavour is finer. The salts of celery is a modern 
 improvement, and a great addition to our culinary condiments. 
 
 BORAGE is not much used in cookery ; its flavour is slightly bitter, and 
 is sometimes used to flavour ale, cyder, &c., for a summer drink. 
 
 HORSE-RADISH is the root of a plant, a native of this country; the 
 aroma which it contains is quickly dissipated by heat—it is therefore used in 
 a raw state by being grated ; an essence may be obtained by infusion with 
 spirits of wine, and which, added to mustard after it is made, gives it an 
 agreeable flavour. 
 
 CHERVIL is getting more into use every day ; its flavour is exceedingly 
 pleasant, and can be employed in soups and salads, especially in made 
 dishes, with the greatest advantage. 
 
 CAPERS are the buds of a small trailing shrub, a native of the South of 
 Europe ; they are sent to this country in barrels, with salt or vinegar ; those 
 grown on the Rock of Gibraltar are considered the finest in the world. They 
 are very excellent with almost all boiled meats, fish, and salads. 
 
 BROOM BUDS, when pickled, in some parts replace capers. 
 
 NASTURTIUMS are sometimes used in the place of capers, being pickled 
 in the same way, but they have not the least resemblance ; they may be 
 used for salads. The flower of the nasturtium is a very pretty decoration 
 for boiled fish and salads. 
 
 BARBERRIES is the fruit of a plant, a native of this country; some 
 centuries since, they appear to have been often used in this country, but 
 more modern importations have superseded them ; they have a very acid 
 flavour, and, if pickled, could enter into the composition of many dishes, and 
 also make a good preserve. 
 
 GHERKINS are the young cucumber, or often the fruit of the uncultivated 
 plant; they are almost always pickled, and are an elegant addition to all 
 salads and many entrees. 
 
CONDIMENTS. 
 
 81 
 
 BEET-ROOT is a root of a plant which of late years has been extensively 
 cultivated for the purpose of feeding cattle ; the colour which it possesses 
 is easily extracted, for the purpose of tinting various articles employed in 
 cookery. When boiled, it is a beautiful addition to every salad. 
 
 MUSHROOMS are greatly used in domestic cookery, and are a general 
 favourite, but I consider them unwholesome if partaken of too freely; their 
 liquor, when decomposed with salt, is a condiment known under the name 
 of Ketchup, is very extensively employed in cookery; this may be consi¬ 
 dered rather wholesome than otherwise, as it is known to facilitate the 
 digestion. The largest are the best to produce the ketchup, and the small 
 button-ones to use in dishes; they should be nicely trimmed, and put into a 
 jar with lemon juice to blanch them ; should be submitted to very little heat, 
 as their delicacy will be lost, and nothing but a tough substance left to eat. 
 
 MORELS are a species of mushroom, but which are now seldom used in 
 cookery, but ought to be more used, as they are agreeable in many viands. 
 
 TRUFFLE is, without doubt, a modem introduction. So late as the year 
 1720, in the regency of Louis XV., we first hear of its being used, when 
 Dubois, the minister, introduced it at his dinners, and the Duke of Orleans 
 gave it to his mistresses, and the gallants of the day brought it into notice 
 in their nocturnal repasts* 
 
 It was at this period that the science of cookery made such rapid improve¬ 
 ment in France, and when extravagance in the preparation of the repasts 
 was carried to the highest point; this was a period when “non ex pane solo 
 xivit homo." Many of the sauces first discovered at that period have 
 descended to the present day—such as Soubise and Bechamel, named after 
 the noblemen who first partook of them. Then it was that the celebrated 
 “ Dinde aux Truffes” (turkey with truffles) first made its appearance. Since 
 this period, the truffle has been considered the “ to kalon” of condiments, 
 and as the indispensable ornament of all banquets; or, as Brillat Savarin 
 says, “ La truffe est le diamant de la cuisine." 
 
 Within the last half century, the place (Perigord) which produces the 
 finest of these roots, produced the first of diplomatists—namely, Talleyrand, 
 who was at the same time a great gourmet. The locality may have had an 
 influence in thus forming of him, but certain it is that he would never give a 
 decision upon any momentous question until after dinner, and having par¬ 
 taken of his favourite dish, Truffe aux Vin de Champagne. Those who are in 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 CONDIMENTS. 
 
 the habit of partaking of them say that they enliven the mind, exhilarate 
 the spirits, assist the digestion, and render the reasoning faculties more 
 clear. How far this may be correct, I am not able to say; but I believe 
 them to be irritable, and would not advise too great an indulgence in them. 
 
 When first known, there was a difference of opinion among the learned, 
 if they were vegetable or mineral, as they appeared to have no origine; 
 there is no doubt, however, but what they are a species of fungus, tube, or 
 root. They are generally found within a few inches of the surface of the 
 earth, and under oak trees; they are known also as the subterraneous “puff¬ 
 ball,” tula cibarium. The best, as we said before, are supposed to come 
 from “Perigord,” the next from Angouleme—these are black; the white 
 ones come from Piedmont, and Carolina in America; they are also very 
 good, but ought to be partaken of fresh. We have black ones in this 
 country, in the New Forest in Hampshire, and they also exist in the vicinity 
 of the Lakes of Killamey, in Ireland; and if sought for, the woods of Mr. 
 Herbert, M.P., would yield large quantities, besides giving employment to 
 the poor. It is in such places where humidity and equality of climate 
 exist that they are most numerous. On the Continent, they are found by 
 means of dogs and pigs, trained on purpose. 
 
 They should not be subjected to too long ebullition, as the aroma is very 
 volatile. Those found in England have not the same aromatic qualities as 
 those of France, and therefore are sold much cheaper. 
 
 BAY is the leaf of a species of laurel, but in using of it, care must be taken 
 that the leaf of the bay-laurel, or cherry-laurel, {jprunus laurocerasus,) is not 
 used for it, being a decided poison (prussic acid); but the bay, or sweet 
 bay, {laura snobilis,) an evergreen of the South of Europe, may be used to great 
 advantage in cookery, as it imparts an agreeable and aromatic flavour, 
 differing very widely from any spices that can be used for the same purposes. 
 It is cultivated extensively in our gardens, and should be used according to 
 the directions given in the receipts. 
 
 SAFFRON was formerly—that is, in the fourteenth century—much used 
 in cookery in Europe. It has bulbous roots, like the onion and flowers ; the 
 fibres grow from the bottom of the bulb, having roots with coats or skin 
 one over the other, and bears naked flowers without stem. At present it is 
 only used in the kitchen for the purpose of colouring, of which kind it is one 
 of the most wholesome. In Portugal, Spain, and Turkey, it is used at the 
 present day to a great extent. 
 
CONDIMENTS. 
 
 83 
 
 ANGLIC A, a condiment much used in the confectionery department of 
 the kitchen; it is the stalk of a plant like celery, which grows in our 
 gardens, and is also found wild. When gathered, it is dried, preserved, 
 and candied. Rouen, in France, is very celebrated for it. 
 
 VANNILLA is used chiefly to impart flavour to various articles in con¬ 
 fectionery ; it possesses also a very beautiful smell, which has caused it to 
 be used in scenting different perfumes, and thus diminished its use in the 
 kitchen. It is the produce of a climbing tree like ivy, having a large leaf 
 and black flower, which leaves a pcd containing black peas; the form of the 
 pod is like a scimitar, from which it takes its name, being in Spanish 
 vargarila. 
 
 When covered with tin-foil, and kept in a moist place, it will become 
 covered with flakes of silver. It denotes the best quality, and is fit for use ; 
 it will do to be infused several times. 
 
 SUGAR is the concentrated juice of a plant which grows in hot climates, 
 and is also to be obtained from other trees and vegetables, especially from 
 beet-root. It is used very extensively in cookery, it imparting a mellow 
 flavour to all dishes; it is of an antiseptic nature, and ought to be em¬ 
 ployed more abundantly in preserving of animal substances than what it is. 
 This condiment was unknown to the ancients, who employed honey in place 
 of it*. The way it is used in the kitchen is explained in the receipts. 
 
 ORANGE is the fruit the produce of a tree originally a native of China, 
 but now grown extensively in all warm climates. The juice of this fruit is 
 a sweet acid, differing greatly in flavour to the lemon ; its peel is of use in 
 cookery, and the juice in many dishes of a sweet character for dessert. The 
 Seville and Malta oranges are a variety of this fruit. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER, a distillation from the flower, is used a great deal 
 in cookery. 
 
 VERJUICE is the juice of a grape of that name, and of other unripe ones, 
 and on the continent was used to a great extent, until the introduction of 
 the lemon. The grape is gathered unripe, and pressed, and allowed to 
 ferment, and then put into large vats to mature ; the older it is, the better 
 the flavour. In England, it has been made from a species of crab-apple, 
 and becomes that known in commerce as malic acid . It enters into the com¬ 
 position of several of the sauces in use at the present day; i f pure, it may he 
 preferable for several dishes to vinegar. 
 
 G 2 
 
84 
 
 CONDIMENTS. 
 
 OLIVE is a fruit not much used in this country in cookery; it grows on 
 a low tree with long narrow leaves, rough underneath ; the fruit contains a 
 long and small kernel; the flesh of the fruit, when pressed, yields the oil 
 known as olive oil. This is a most valuable article in cookery; it ought to 
 be tasteless and inodorous, but when long exposed to the air becomes rank 
 and unfit for use. 
 
 ARROW-ROOT is the powder of the root of a tree growing in very warm 
 and moist climates, of about two to three feet in height, known in botany 
 as the maranta arundinarea. In some countries, the flour of this root is 
 mixed with that of Indian corn, and makes excellent bread. It is produced 
 in the same way as the starch from potatoes. 
 
 TAPIOCA is also a starch, produced from the roots of a Brazilian plant 
 called Cassava, a very elegant and handsome plant, with beautiful white and 
 pink flowers. Though so handsome in its exterior, yet the plant in itself is 
 one of the most poisonous in existence ; it is now becoming general in use, as 
 it is found, when mixed with a little wine or spirit, to be an excellent 
 stimulant to an invalid, without possessing any heating qualities. It should 
 always be well washed in water, and then boiled until it becomes transparent, 
 when it should be well stirred, and whatever is required to be mixed with 
 it should be added. It will, when mixed with other flour, make very good 
 bread. 
 
 SALSOP is another root of a plant called orchis morio, a native of the 
 East, where it is used as an article of food to a great extent; it is reduced 
 to powder, and readily dissolves in boiling water. It is a light, pleasant 
 drink, and, to persons of a feverish constitution, is exceedingly wholesome. 
 
 SAGO is another of these starches, similar to Tapioca, made from the 
 pith of the palm-tree, a native of the Indies. It is prepared precisely in the 
 same way as the Tapioca. 
 
 SOY is obtained from the seed or fruit of an Indian plant, called doliehos 
 soja, or soya; it is produced in a very similar way to ketchup; it enters 
 greatly into use in the variety of sauces that are made for the table, it being 
 of a very strong, sweet-bitter taste; it should only be used in moderation in 
 cookery. 
 
 CHETNEY is a production of the East Indies, which, of late years, has 
 come considerably into use; it is the mixing together of a variety of fruits, 
 
CONDIMENTS. 
 
 85 
 
 and allowing them to ferment until they become acid : some spices are then 
 mixed with them—they are then bottled for use ; the older it is, the better 
 it becomes. That which is made in the Yale of Cashmere is considered the 
 best; it is endeavoured to be imitated in this country, with little success. 
 
 CURRY-POWDER is another of those Indian condiments which have 
 latterly come so much into use, and it is only to be regretted that it is not 
 cheaper than it is, so as to allow it to be more generally used, as it is one 
 of those stimulating condiments which would be invaluable to the poor ; its 
 use would prevent the habit of taking other stimulants which produce 
 intoxication. 
 
 LEMON is the fruit of a tree a native of the South of Europe and the 
 Indies; it is a most valuable production, not only in the way it is used in 
 cookery, but to the health of the human race. Its juice, when diluted with 
 water, and sweetened, is one of the most refreshing and wholesome, that it 
 is possible to take. The peel contains an essential oil, which imparts a 
 strong pungent flavour to those dishes to which it is added. The true 
 flavour of this fruit can only be had when fresh and ripe. At the time of 
 Henry VIII., this fruit was a great rarity, and used to be partaken of at 
 dessert with a quantity of sugar mixed with it. 
 
 The LIME is a species of lemon, the juice of which is more acid. 
 
 The CITRON is also another species; the juice is sweeter. 
 
 VINEGAR derives its name from the French vin aigre, or sour wine, and 
 is known in chemistry as acetic acid. This antiseptic liquor can be produced 
 from all herbs, plants, vegetables, and fruits, which produce sugar, and 
 even that singular production of nature known as honey, and of which their 
 juices will go into fermentation. Their juices, when first expressed, are 
 called wine, or syrup ; they undergo a fermentation known as the vinous, 
 after which, when exposed to a certain degree of heat, enter into the 
 acetous fermentation, and produce that acid pungent liquor known as 
 vinegar. Of late years, it has also been produced by the distillation of 
 wood, more particularly oak, and known as pyroligneous acid, which is 
 intensely acid, and highly stimulating. When employed in cookery, it 
 should be used very judiciously, and with great care. The best vinegar is 
 that which contains the least vegetable matter, such as colouring, &c. and 
 which has the strongest acid taste, without being hot. 
 
86 
 
 WATER. 
 
 The different flavoured vinegars may be made by infusion, without the 
 
 aid of heat, of the different substances from which the flavour is required. 
 
 \ 
 
 BOUQUET is a term often used in this book: when expressed alone, 
 without naming the herbs which compose it, means parsley, &c. 
 
 BOUQUET GARNI means a variety of herbs, and, when mentioned, the 
 herbs which are composed are also named. 
 
 BAIN MARIE, or, as it is called in the English kitchen, Beavmere Pan, 
 is a pan which contains water kept at a boiling state, in which are placed the 
 other saucepans, &c., so that the contents should not be acted upon too 
 strongly by the fire. This tenn is old, having its origin with the alchymists, 
 who, finding that sea-water boiled at a high temperature, and did not 
 evaporate so quickly, used a pan containing sea-water (maris, in French, of 
 the sea); hence the term Bain Marie, or Sea-Water Bath. 
 
 WATER. 
 
 Upwards of 730,000 diurnal revolutions has this earth made round that 
 grand luminary the sun, since one of its chief elements, Water, attracted 
 the attention of a celebrated philosopher, Hippocrates, who wrote upon the 
 difference observable in that element. At a later period, Celsus gave direc¬ 
 tions for examining the specific gravity; and Pliny attempted to direct his 
 readers how to distinguish the salubrious from that which is unwholesome. 
 In the middle ages, when the monomania existed for finding the philosopher’s 
 stone and the elixir , vitae, considerable progress was made in discovering its 
 constituent parts. But till the time of Boyle, or towards the dose of the 
 seventeenth century, no means had been discovered of analyzing water, or 
 of pronouncing with certainty on its nature and properties. 
 
 WATER, which in the general way is thought so lightly of, is one of 
 those elements used in cookery which is of the most important character. 
 The best receipts in cookery may often be spoilt in consequence of the water, 
 as it is by it that the flavour of everything is extracted, and upon the 
 quality of the water much depends the nature of that extract. It is only of 
 late years that the economy of water has attracted the attention of the 
 scientific; and I am fearful that the cook has not given it that attention 
 which so important a subject, deserves. 
 
WATER. 
 
 87 
 
 G-ood potable water ought to contain to ^ part of its volume of 
 atmospheric air; of this, one is atmospheric air, and the rest carbonic acid 
 gas, and the specific gravity is from 1,00016 to 1,00030 ; when the solid 
 contents exceed this, the water is what is termed hard, and is less fitted for 
 cookery, and dissolving of soap or other domestic purposes. The solid con¬ 
 tents in five quarts of water, or lClbs., ought not to exceed 9’65 grs., and in 
 the following proportions :— 
 
 Carbonate of lime . 
 Muriate of soda 
 
 Silica. 
 
 Muriate of lime 
 Sulphate of potassa 
 Carbonate of soda . 
 
 5'5 grains. 
 
 2’25 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 >9 
 
 99 
 
 25 
 
 99 
 
 2 
 
 >> 
 
 with four cubic inches of carbonic acid gas, and two of oxygen gas. It may 
 also contain a little sulphate of lime. 
 
 Many towns have their favourite teas—that is, what is admired in one is 
 disapproved in another; this results solely from the water with which it 
 is made. 
 
 Having latterly been employed upon several experiments with this useful 
 element for the Sanatory Commission, and which experiments I am now 
 carrying out with water from various parts of England, I have been exceed¬ 
 ingly surprised at the results of these experiments, and upon the difference 
 which exists in the waters of this metropolis, resulting from the nature of 
 the soil through which the water percolates, or from the source whence 
 supplied ; but as this is not the place to give the particulars of those expe¬ 
 riments, I shall merely state that the general result was, that I found there 
 existed a difference between hard and soft water, to the extent of nearly one- 
 third, in making of tea, or as 41b. of tea is to 61b. ; and in vegetables of all 
 kinds a difference perfectly astonishing, more particularly in roots, and 
 none, perhaps, more than in the potato ; the difference was even perceptible 
 in the cutting of it, and the flavour of the water, as well as its hardness, 
 was absorbed by that root. In herbs, the aroma and flavour cannot be 
 extracted, even when adding soda to the water, which seems to make it only 
 artificial; and green vegetables lose not only their colour, but their flavour, 
 from being boiled in hard water, and soda, when added, destroys their 
 colour. Upon meat it has a very singular effect, as hard water will not 
 extract the juices er gravy, but causes it to enter and bind the gelatinous 
 
88 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 parts more closely together; it causes white meat, such as veal and chicken, 
 to boil whiter; 
 
 In the prosecution of my experiments, I found that the softer the water, 
 the quicker it boiled; and also that salt water would only boil at 213 T -o°, 
 instead of at 212°; the contents of salt being, in 1000 parts, 26 - 6, chloriate 
 of sodium; 4"66, sulphate of soda; l*^, chloriate of calchium ; and 5‘154, 
 chloriate of magnesia ; and water containing 64 salt in 1000, boils at 214^° 
 Fahr., 96 in 1000, 215^°; 128 in 1000, 216 x y>; 284 in 1000, at 226° Fahr. 
 
 MILK is almost equally as essential in cookery as water, and a great deal 
 depends upon its quality; but as we have promised to write a small work 
 on Domestic Economy for the Cottage, we shall leave until then those novel 
 particulars concerning it which is the result of our experience. We will 
 now state here, that it consists of three parts—the caseous, the butyrous, 
 and the serous. The first comprehends the gross, earthy particles, being car¬ 
 bonate of lime, which serve to suspend the butyrous parts, and which, when 
 coagulated by art, forms cheese. The second comprises the oily particles, or 
 cream, which float on the surface of the milk, and can by agitation be con¬ 
 verted into butter. The third is the watery part, which constitutes whey. 
 The most palatable, wholesome milk is that which contains a due proportion 
 of these three constituent parts. Milk, besides the uses we apply it to in 
 the kitchen, is used for other purposes in branches of various manufactures, 
 but more particularly for altering the colour of wines, as they change dark 
 wines into perfect colourless. 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 Sauces in cookery are like the first rudiments of grammar, which consist 
 of certain rules called Syntax, and the foundation of all languages: these 
 fundamental rules are nine, so has cookery the same number of sauces, which 
 are the foundation of all others; but these, like its prototype the grammar, 
 have two—brown and white, which bear a resemblance to the noun and 
 verb, as they are the first and most easily learnt, and most constantly in use; 
 the others are the adjuncts, pronouns, adverbs, and interjections; upon the 
 proper use of the two principal ones depends the quality of all others, and 
 the proper making of which tends to the enjoyment of the dinner; for to my 
 fancy they are to cookery what the gamut is in the composition of music, as 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 89 
 
 it is by the arrangement of the notes that harmony is produced, so should 
 the ingredients in the sauce be so nicely blended, and that delightful concord 
 should exist, which would equally delight the palate, as a masterpiece of a 
 Mozart or a Rossini should delight the ear; but which, if badly executed, 
 tantalize those nervous organs, affect the whole system, and prove a nuisance 
 instead of a pleasure. I will therefore be very precise in describing the two, 
 in order that, when you prepare them, you will not cause your guests to make 
 grimaces at each other, whilst partaking of them at your festive board, as 
 the present age is a little more refined than at the time of Dr. Johnson, and 
 we are often obliged to swallow that we do not like. It is reported of him, 
 that being at a ceremonious dinner-party, and indulging in his usual flow of 
 wit, he unconsciously partook of a spoonful of very hot soup, which he 
 immediately returned to the plate he had taken it from ; and observing the 
 astonishment of some of his neighbours, he very coolly remarked, “ A fool 
 would have burnt his mouth.” 
 
 When we are at home alone, I very seldom trouble myself by making 
 white or brown sauce, which I can avoid by selecting simplified dishes, which 
 easily produce their own sauce whilst cooking them. But when I expect a 
 little company, the first order I give my cook is to make half of the quantity 
 of the following receipts for white and brown sauces, which ought to be 
 kept hot in a bain-marie pan, previous to the dinner. No doubt the word 
 bain-marie is new to you, I will therefore tell you what it is. It consists of 
 a pan containing water to the depth of about four inches, generally placed 
 at the side of the stove, in which are placed the saucepans and stewpans, in 
 order that their contents may be kept hot, without injuring the flavour by 
 over heating, and no kitchen from which a good dinner is expected to be 
 sent should be without it. 
 
 135. WHITE SAUCE.—Cut and chop a knuckle of 
 veal, weighing about four pounds, into large dice; also 
 half a pound of lean bacon; butter the bottom of a large 
 stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, add two 
 onions, a small carrot, a turnip, three cloves, half a bladei 
 of mace, a bouquet of a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and 
 six of parsley, add a gill of water, place over a sharp fire, 
 stirring round occasionally, until the bottom of the stew- 
 pan is covered with whitish glaze, then fill up with three 
 
90 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 quarts of water, add a good teaspoonful of salt, and let 
 simmer at the corner of the fire an hour and a half, 
 keeping well skimmed; pass it through a hair sieve into 
 a basin. In another stewpan put a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, with which mix six ounces of flour, stirring over 
 the fire about three minutes, take off, keep stirring until 
 partly cold, when add the stock all at once; continually 
 stirring and boiling for a quarter of an hour; add half a 
 pint of boiling milk, stir a few minutes longer, add a little 
 chopped mushrooms, if handy, pass through a hair sieve 
 into a basin, until required for use, stirring it round occa¬ 
 sionally until cold. The above being a simplified white 
 sauce, will be referred to very often in the receipts. 
 
 136. BROWN SAUCE.—Put two ounces of butter into 
 a stewpan, rub it over the bottom, peel two or three large 
 onions, cut them in thick slices, lay them on the bottom, 
 cut into small pieces about two pounds of knuckle of veal,* 
 all meat, or three pounds if with bone, a quarter of a pound 
 of lean bacon, cut small, two cloves, a few peppercorns, 
 a tablespoonful of salt, two bay leaves, a gill of water; 
 set it on a brisk fire, let it remain ten minutes, when 
 stir it well round, subdue the fire, let it remain twenty 
 minutes longer, and stir now and then until it has a nice 
 brown colour; fill your pan with three quarts of water; 
 when boiling, set it on the corner of the stove, with the 
 lid three parts on the saucepan; when boiling, skim fat 
 and all; after one hour, or one hour and a half simmering, 
 pass it through a sieve into a basin. To make the thicken¬ 
 ing or Roux for it, proceed as follows:—Roux. Put two 
 ounces of butter into a pan, which melt on a slow fire, 
 then add three ounces of flour, stir it with a wood spoon 
 
 Half veal and beef can be used; or if no veal, all beef, 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 91 
 
 until getting a thin deep yellow colour; this in France is 
 called Roux, being very useful in cookery, and will be 
 often referred to in these receipts. This process will take 
 ten minutes, when remove from the fire for two minutes 
 to cool, then add at once three pints and a quarter of the 
 above stock, very quickly set it on the fire to boil, remove 
 to the corner to simmer, and skim. It ought to be entirely 
 free from grease, and of a light chesnut colour. 
 
 137. DEMI-GLAZE—THIN BROWN SAUCE FOR 
 MADE DISHES.—When I have a small dinner-party, 
 I always, as I told you before, make small quantities of 
 white and brown sauce as above, but this is a nice way of 
 clarifying a brown sauce without much trouble, and makes 
 it a beautiful transparent brown colour; but although I 
 have made it quite a study, that each entree, or made dish 
 for daily use, should make its own sauce, yet I must im¬ 
 press upon you that this sauce is the real key to cooking 
 a good and ceremonious dinner. Put a pint of brown 
 sauce, in a middle-sized stewpan, add to it half a pint of 
 broth or consomme, put it on the stove, stir with wooden 
 spoon, let it boil as fast as possible, take the skum off 
 which will rise to the surface, reduce it until it adheres 
 lightly to the spoon, pass it through a sieve or tammy into 
 a basin, stir now and then until cold, to prevent a skin 
 forming on the top, put it by until wanted for use. It will 
 keep for a week in winter, by adding half a gill of white 
 broth every other day, and giving it a boil; the addition 
 of a tablespoonful of tomato sauce gives it a beautiful 
 colour; use where indicated. 
 
 138. THIN BROWN SAUCE OF MUSHROOMS. 
 —Put twelve tablespoonfuls of thin brown sauce in a small 
 stewpan to boil, then have six or eight small mushrooms, 
 well cleaned and washed, chop them fine, and place in 
 
9*2 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 sauce, and boil for five minutes; taste if it is to your 
 liking ; the addition of a little sugar is an improvement; 
 a little cayenne, if liked, may be introduced. The sauce 
 is good for cutlets, broiled fowl, and game, &c. 
 
 139. ESCHALOT SAUCE.—Chop fine about a good 
 tablespoonful of eschalot, place it in the corner of a napkin, 
 and pour water over; press until dry, and put in a small 
 stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one clove, a 
 little mace; boil two minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of 
 demi-glaze, boil a little longer, add a little sugar, and serve. 
 
 140. PIQUANT or SHARP SAUCE.—Put two table¬ 
 spoonfuls of chopped onions, or eschalots, cleaned as above, 
 into a stewpan; put also four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and 
 a bay-leaf, and boil; then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown 
 sauce, half a one of chopped parsley, ditto of green gher¬ 
 kins; boil five minutes, skim, add a little sugar, taste if 
 well seasoned, take out bay-leaf and serve. 
 
 141. TARRAGON SAUCE.—Put eight tablespoonfuls 
 of demi-glaze, and four of broth, into a stewpan; boil for 
 a few minutes, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, have ready 
 picked twenty leaves of fresh tarragon, put in to simmer 
 two minutes, and serve with any kind of poultry, but espe¬ 
 cially spring chickens. 
 
 142. BROWN CUCUMBER SAUCE.—Peel a small 
 fresh cucumber, cut it in neat pieces, put in a stewpan 
 with a little sugar, add half an ounce of butter, set it on a 
 slow fire, stir it now and then, add twelve tablespoonfuls 
 of brown sauce, and eight of broth; let it simmer till 
 tender, skim the butter off, remove the cucumber into 
 another stewpan, pass the sauce, reduce it a little, taste it, 
 pour over, and serve. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 93 
 
 143. MINCE HERB SAUCE.—Put two tablespoon¬ 
 fuls of finely chopped onions in a stewpan, and a table¬ 
 spoonful of oil, place it on the fire, stir a few minutes, add 
 ten table spoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four of broth or 
 water; boil, skim; if too thick, and the scum should not 
 rise, add half a gill of broth or water; boil, and reduce to 
 a proper thickness, and add a tablespoonful of chopped 
 parsley if at hand, one of mushrooms, and season with a 
 little cayenne; the juice of a quarter of a lemon; serve. 
 I often introduce a little garlic in this. 
 
 144. ITALIAN HERB SAUCE.—Proceed in the same 
 way as the above, only add a little chopped thyme, and 
 a small glass of sherry. 
 
 145. ROBERT SAUCE.—Peel and cut up two good- 
 sized onions, put them in stewpan with an ounce of butter, 
 till they are a nice yellow colour, then add eight table- 
 spoonfuls of demi-glaze, and two of water or broth; skim, 
 boil quickly; when of a proper thickness add a good table¬ 
 spoonful of French mustard; season rather high; if no 
 French mustard, use English, but it completely changes 
 the flavour, though still very palatable. 
 
 146. RAVIGOTE SAUCE. — Put in a stewpan one 
 middle-sized onion sliced, with a little carrot, a little 
 thyme, bay-leaf, one clove, a little mace, a little scraped 
 horseradish, a little butter, fry a few minutes, then add 
 three teaspoonfuls of vinegar, ten tablespoonfuls of brown 
 sauce, four of broth; when boiling, skim, add a table¬ 
 spoonful of currant jelly: when melted, pass all through 
 a tammy, and serve with any kind of meat or poultry: 
 with hare or venison it is excellent. 
 
 147. BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE. —Clean and 
 
94 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 cut twelve small mushrooms in slices, place them in a 
 stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, the juice of a 
 quarter of a lemon, set it on a slow fire for a few minutes, 
 then add ten spoonfuls of demi-glaze; boil till they are 
 tender, and serve. A little mushroom catsup may be in¬ 
 troduced. 
 
 148. ORANGE SAUCE FOR GAME.—Peel half 
 an orange, removing all the pith; cut it into slices, and 
 then in fillets; put them in a gill of water to boil for two 
 minutes; drain them on a sieve, throwing the water away; 
 place in the stewpan two spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or ten 
 of broth; and, when boiling, add the orange, a little sugar, 
 simmer ten minutes, shim, and serve. The juice of half 
 an orange is an improvement. This is served with duck¬ 
 lings and water-fowl: those that like may add cayenne 
 and mustard. 
 
 149. GARLIC SAUCE.—Though many dislike the 
 flavour of this root, yet those that like it ought not to be 
 deprived of it. Put in a stewpan ten tablespoonfuls of 
 demi-glaze, a little tomato sauce, if handy; boil it a few 
 minutes, scrape half a clove of garlic, put it in with a little 
 sugar, and serve. 
 
 150. MINT SAUCE FOR LAMB.—Take three table¬ 
 spoonfuls of chopped leaves of green mint, three table¬ 
 spoonfuls of brown sugar, and put into a basin, with half 
 a pint of brown vinegar; stir it well up, add one salt 
 spoonful of salt, and serve. 
 
 151. LIAISON OF EGGS.—Break the yolks of two 
 eggs in a basin, with which mix six spoonfuls of milk, or 
 eight of cream; pass it through a fine sieve, and use when 
 directed. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 95 
 
 152. ANCHOVY BUTTER SAUCE.—Put into a 
 stewpan eight spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or three of broth; 
 when boiling, add one ounce of anchovy butter; stir con¬ 
 tinually till melted; serve where directed. 
 
 153. SOYER’S SAUCE.—Put six spoonfuls of demi- 
 glaze into a stewpan: when hot, add four spoonfuls of 
 Soyer’s Gentleman’s Sauce; let boil, and serve with 
 either chop, steak, cutlet, poultry, or game. 
 
 154. PAPILLOTTE SAUCE.—Scrape half an ounce 
 of fat bacon, put it in a pan with four tablespoonfuls of 
 chopped onions, stir over the fire for a few minutes, then 
 add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce and boil; then add 
 a tablespoonful of mushrooms chopped, one ditto of 
 parsley, a little nutmeg, a little pepper and sugar, a 
 quarter of a clove of scraped garlic; reduce till rather 
 thickish; put on dish till cold, and use it for anything 
 you may put up “ en Papillotte .” 
 
 155. TOMATO SAUCE.—If fresh, put six in a stew¬ 
 pan ; having removed the stalk, and squeezed them in the 
 hand to remove pips, &c., add half an onion, sliced, a 
 sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, half an ounce of celery, one 
 ounce of ham or bacon, same of butter, teaspoonful of 
 sugar, same of salt, a quarter one of pepper, set on fire 
 to stew gently; when all tender, add a tablespoonful of 
 flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, boil five minutes, 
 add a little cayenne, taste if highly seasoned, pass it 
 through sieve or tammy, put it back in stewpan, until it 
 adheres rather thick to the back of the spoon, and use it 
 for any kind of meat or poultry. If preserved tomato, 
 proceed as for poivrade sauce, respecting the vegetables, 
 omitting the vinegar, and adding the tomato, instead of 
 brown sauce, with a tablespoonful of flour and broth to 
 
96 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 bring it to a proper thickness; pass it through a sieve, 
 and serve as above. 
 
 156. CURRY SAUCE. —This I generally keep ready-made in the 
 larder, being very fond of what I consider such wholesome food as curry; but 
 not liking to be troubled with making it often, I cause my cook to prepare a 
 certain quantity at a time. Mr. B. is very partial to curry, but he likes it 
 in winter; for my part, I prefer it in summer. After having partaken of 
 some one very hot summer’s day, I felt quite cold. Capt. White, who has 
 been nearly twenty years in the East Indies, tells me that it will produce 
 that refreshing effect ; I can enjoy it in any season. 
 
 Put into a pan four good-sized onions, sliced, and two 
 peeled apples, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the 
 same of lean ham, a blade of mace, four peppercorns, two 
 bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme ; stir them over a mode¬ 
 rate fire until the onions become brown and tender, then 
 add tw r o tablespoonfuls of the best curry powder, one of 
 vinegar, two of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar; 
 moisten it with a quart of broth or milk, or even water, 
 with the addition of a little glaze ; boil till in a pulp, and 
 adhering rather thickly to the back of the spoon; pass 
 all through a fine sieve or tammy, give it another boil for 
 a few minutes, put it in a basin, and use w r hen required. 
 Any kind of meat, poultry, and fish, or parts of game, are 
 excellent warmed in this sauce, and served with well- 
 boiled and dry rice. I have kept this sauce in a cool 
 place in the winter for a month, boiling it now and then. 
 The quantity of powder may be omitted, and a spoonful 
 of curry paste used, or some mangoes. ( See Curries.) 
 
 157. A VERY GOOD AND USEFUL WHITE 
 SAUCE ( quite new ).—Put a quart of white sauce in a stew- 
 pan of a proper size on a fire; stir continually until 
 reduced to one-third; put two yolks of eggs in a basin, 
 stir them well up, add your sauce gradually, keep stirring, 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 ?7 
 
 put back in stewpan, set it to boil for a few minutes longer, 
 then add one pint of boiling milk, which will bring it to 
 its proper thickness; that is, when it adheres trans¬ 
 parently to the back of a spoon; pass through a tammy 
 into a basin, stir now and then till cold. If not immediately 
 required, and I have any stock left, I use half of it with 
 half of milk. I also try this way, which is very convenient: 
 when the yolks are in, and well boiled, I put it in a large 
 gallipot, and when cold, cover with pieces of paper; it 
 will keep good in winter for two or three weeks, and above 
 a week in summer: when I want to use .a little of it, I 
 only take a spoonful or two and warm it on the fire, and 
 add enough milk or white broth to bring it to a proper 
 thickness, and use when required. This sauce is very 
 smooth, and never turns greasy; it lies beautifully on 
 fowl, or any white made dish; the addition of a drop of 
 cream gives it a very fine white appearance. 
 
 158. ONION PUREE SAUCE.—Peel and cut six 
 onions in slices; put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, a half 
 one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a 
 pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting- 
 brown, then add one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, 
 and boil till a proper thickness, which should be a little 
 thicker than melted butter; pass through a tammy, warm 
 again, and serve with mutton cutlets, chops, boiled rabbits, 
 or fowl; by not passing it, it will do for roast mutton and 
 boiled rabbit as onion sauce. 
 
 159. PUREE OF CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.—Boil 
 a cauliflower well in three pints of water, in which you 
 have previously put one ounce of butter, one tablespoon- 
 ful of salt; when done, chop it up, having prepared and 
 
 H 
 
98 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 slowly cooked in a stewpan an onion sliced, a little celery, 
 half a turnip, one ounce of ham, two of butter, a little bay- 
 leaf, mace, add then the cauliflower, stir round, add a 
 tablespoonful of flour, moisten as above for onions, pass, 
 and finish the same way. 
 
 160. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SAUCE.—Peel 
 twelve, and well wash; boil till tender, and proceed as 
 above. 
 
 161. TURNIP SAUCE PUREE.—Boil six middle- 
 sized ones, press all the water you can out of them, and 
 proceed as the above. 
 
 162. WHITE CUCUMBER PUREE.—Peel two, or 
 one large one, cut in slices, put in the stewpan with the 
 same vegetables, &c. as for the cauliflower; when tender, 
 add a tablespoonful of flour, four gills of milk or broth, 
 boil, finishing as the cauliflower. 
 
 163. SORREL SAUCE, or PUREE.—Wash well 
 six handfuls of sorrel, put it nearly dry into a middle- 
 sized stewpan, with a little butter; let it melt, add a table¬ 
 spoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, half one of pepper; 
 moisten to a thick puree, with milk, or broth, or cream; 
 pass it through a sieve, put it back in a stewpan, warm 
 again, add two whole eggs, two ounces of butter, and stir 
 well, and serve where directed. 
 
 164. SPINAGE PUREE, (^Vegetables, 2nd Course.) 
 —Endive Puree is often used in France, and called chicoree. 
 This Puree may be made like the cauliflower, or only 
 plain boiled, plainly chopped, put into a pan with two 
 ounces of butter, a gill of white sauce, a little grated 
 nutmeg, and a little salt, pepper, and sugar. 
 
 165. STEWED PEAS AND SPRUE GRASS.—For 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 99 
 
 cutlets, sweetbreads, fowls, or any dishes, they are appli¬ 
 cable, (see Vegetables, 2nd Course ,) also French beans, 
 only using one-third of the quantity that you would for a 
 made dish, or for an entremet. 
 
 166. SCOOPED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.— 
 Scoop with a round cutter twenty-four pieces of artichoke, 
 of the size of half an inch in diameter, wash, and put 
 them in a small stewpan with half an ounce of butter and 
 a quarter of an ounce of sugar; put it on a slow' fire for a 
 few minutes, add four tablespoonfuls of white sauce, eight 
 of white broth or milk, let them simmer till tender, skim, 
 mix a yolk of an egg with two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour 
 in stewpan, and move it round very quickly, and serve; it 
 must not be too thick, and the artichokes must be well 
 done; they must not be in puree; they are good with or 
 served under any white meat. 
 
 167. SCOOPED TURNIPS.—Proceed exactly the 
 same, only serve a little thinner; they will not do if 
 stringy. Use brown sauce instead of white. 
 
 168. BUTTON ONIONS.—The same, only make the 
 sauce thinner, and boil longer, according to their size. 
 
 169. YOUNG CARROTS.—Scrape and trim to shape 
 twenty small and young carrots, pass in sugar and butter, 
 add white or brown sauce, but keep it thinner, as it re¬ 
 quires a longer time boiling; when tender, if for white 
 sauce, add a tablespoonful of liaison, stir, and serve. 
 
 170. WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE.—Use small 
 white ones; cut the dark part out and remove the tail, 
 wash in several waters, put in a stewpan with a little butter, 
 salt, pepper, juice of lemon, saute it for a few minutes 
 on the fire, add a gill of white sauce, four tablespoon- 
 
100 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 fuls of broth, milk, or water; boil, and serve under any 
 white meat. 
 
 171. WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE. —Peel two 
 cucumbers, divide each lengthwise into four, remove the 
 pips, and cut into pieces one inch long; add, in stewpan, 
 one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, half of salt, 
 let it stew on the fire for fifteen minutes, then add a gill 
 of white sauce, eight spoonfuls of milk, broth, or water, 
 simmer gently and skim; add a tablespoonful of liaison, and 
 serve where directed, but observe that all these garnitures 
 ought to be served under the meat and over poultry. 
 
 172. RAGOUT OF QUENELLES.—Make twelve 
 nice small quenelles, (see Quenelles,) warm half a pint 
 of white sauce, in which you have put four tablespoonfuls 
 of milk, and half a teaspoonful of eschalot; wdien well 
 done, pour on them the liaison, with the juice of a lemon, 
 and serve. A few English truffles or mushrooms may be 
 added to this sauce, allowing them time to cook. 
 
 173. MAITRE-D’HOTEL SAUCE.—Put eight spoon¬ 
 fuls of white sauce in a stewpan, with four of white stock 
 or milk; boil it five minutes, then stir in two ounces of 
 maitre-d’hotel butter; stir it quickly over the fire until the 
 butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after the 
 butter is in: this sauce should only be made at the time 
 of serving. Melted butter may be used. 
 
 174. GREEN PEAS STEWED.—Put a pint of young 
 peas, boiled very green, into a stewpan, with three table¬ 
 spoonfuls of white sauce, two ounces of butter, a little 
 sugar and salt, and two button onions, with parsley, tied 
 together; boil ten minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of 
 liaison, stir it in quickly, and serve. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 101 
 
 175. GREEN PEAS WITH BACON.—Put a pint 
 of well-boiled peas into a stewpan, with five spoonfuls of 
 brown sauce, four of brown gravy, a teaspoonful of sugar, 
 two button onions, and a bunch of parsley; let it boil 
 about ten minutes; have ready boiled about a quarter of 
 a pound of lean bacon, cut it in dice about a quarter of an 
 inch square, add it to the peas, take out the onions and 
 parsley, season with an ounce of butter, and half a tea¬ 
 spoonful of sugar; mix well together, stew twenty minutes, 
 and serve. 
 
 176. BLANCHED MUSHROOMS.—Get a pottle of 
 fresh mushrooms, cut off the dirt, and likewise the heads, 
 (reserving the stalk for chopping,) wash the heads in a 
 basin of clean water, take them out and drain in a sieve; 
 put into a stewpan two wine-glasses of cold water, one 
 ounce of butter, the juice of half a good lemon, and a little 
 salt; turn or peel each head neatly, and put them into the 
 stewpan immediately, or they will turn black; set your 
 stew r pan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly five minutes, 
 put them into a basin ready for use; chop the stalks and 
 peel very fine, put them into stewpan with three table¬ 
 spoonfuls of the liquor the mushrooms have been boiled 
 in; let them simmer three minutes, put them into ajar, 
 and use where indicated. 
 
 Observe: Turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that 
 practice alone can attain; if they are very fresh and white, 
 wash them quickly, and wipe them on a cloth; throw 
 them thus into the liquid above mentioned. 
 
 177. ONIONS STUFFED.—Peel twelve large onions, 
 cut a piece off at the top and bottom to give them a flat 
 appearance, and which causes a bitter flavour if left, blanch 
 them in four quarts of boiling water twenty minutes, then 
 
102 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 lay them on a cloth to dry; take the middle out of each 
 onion, and fill them with veal forcemeat, (with a little 
 chopped eschalot, parsley, and mushroom, mixed in it,) 
 and put them in a saute-pan well buttered, cover them 
 with white broth, let them simmer over a slow fire until 
 covered with a glaze, and tender; turn them over, and 
 serve where required. 
 
 178. HOT TARTAR SAUCE.— Put four tablespoon¬ 
 fuls of white sauce in a small stewpan, four of broth or 
 milk, boil a few minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of 
 the tartar sauce (see Salads) in it, stir it very quick with 
 a wooden spoon, make it quite hot, but not boiling; put it 
 on a dish, and serve where described. 
 
 179. MEPHISTOPHELIAN SAUCE.— Do not be afraid 
 
 of the title, for it lias nothing diabolical about it; the first time I tried it 
 was at Mr. B.’s birthday party, when some of his friends, having over and 
 over again drank his health, till he had hardly any health left to carry him 
 to the drawing-room, where the coffee was waiting, about eleven o’clock,— 
 asked for some anchovy sandwiches, but, from a mistake in not having any 
 in the house, I composed this ravigotante sauce, which partly brought them 
 back to their senses. 
 
 I cut up the remains of the turkey, rubbed some mus¬ 
 tard over it, sprinkled a little salt and plenty of cayenne, 
 put it on the gridiron on the fire, and made the following 
 sauce: I chopped six eschalots, washed and pressed them 
 in the corner of a clean cloth, then put them into a stew- 
 pan with one and a half wine-glassful of Chili vinegar, a 
 chopped clove, a piece of garlic, two bay-leaves, an ounce 
 of glaze, and boiled all together for ten minutes; then 
 added four tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, a little sugar, 
 and ten of gravy or brown sauce; boiled it a few’ minutes 
 longer, then added a pat of butter, stirring it well in, 
 removed the bay-leaf, and poured over turkey, and served. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 103 
 
 180. HORSERADISH SAUCE.—Take half a stick of 
 scraped horseradish of the usual size, grate it well, add to it 
 a teaspoonful of mustard, a teaspoonful of salt, half a salt- 
 spoonful of pepper; and one teaspoonful of sugar ; when 
 mixed, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and two tea¬ 
 spoonfuls of cream, and moisten it, until a proper con¬ 
 sistency, with a little milk. 
 
 181. WILD FOWL SAUCE.—The following is a 
 good sauce; the quantities are given for one wild duck. 
 
 Walnut catsup one tablespoonful; the same of Harvey’s 
 or Worcestershire sauce, the same of lemon-juice, a wine¬ 
 glass of red wine, a good slice of lemon-peel, one eschalot, 
 minced, half a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper, one 
 blade of mace, and a wine-glassful of gravy; boil ten 
 minutes, serve very hot, and pour over the bird when 
 cut up. 
 
 182. FUMET DE GIBIER SAUCE.—Take the re¬ 
 mains or bones of game, (the back-bones of grouse are 
 best,) chop them up small, put them in a stew r pan, with a 
 glass of white wine, an onion, a small piece of carrot, and 
 of turnip sliced, a leaf of celery, a sprig of thyme, the 
 same of parsley, a bay-leaf, a clove, half a blade of mace; 
 stir over the fire five minutes, then add a quart of brown 
 sauce, if too thick add some water, boil for about twenty 
 minutes, skim, strain, and serve; a little lemon-juice and 
 cayenne pepper may be added if approved of. 
 
 183. CAPER SAUCE.—Put twelve tablespoonfuls of 
 melted butter into a stewpan, place it on the fire, and 
 when on the point of boiling, add one ounce of fresh 
 butter and one tablespoonful of capers; shake the stewpan 
 round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a little 
 pepper and salt, and serve where directed. 
 
104 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 In France, no dinner is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed 
 to be made without the pot-au-feu (See No. 228), it being the national dish 
 of the middle and poorer classes of that countiy. I think it might be of 
 service to the working classes, as by it they would be oftener able to partake 
 of a hot dinner, the advantages to be derived from which, in a cold climate 
 like ours, I have already remarked upon. Clear light soups are very 
 delicate, and in this country more fit for the wealthy; whilst the more sub¬ 
 stantial thick soups, such as mock turtle, ox tail, peas, &c., are more in 
 vogue, consequent upon being better adapted for the million, as a less quan¬ 
 tity is more satisfying; therefore, after giving a few series of clear soups, I 
 shall proceed to give a greater variety of the thicker sorts, being careful that 
 every receipt shall be so plain as to give a correct idea of its cost. 
 
 184. STOCK FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUP.—Pro¬ 
 cure a knuckle of veal about six pounds in weight, which 
 cut into pieces about the size of an egg, as also half a 
 pound of lean ham or bacon; then rub a quarter of a 
 pound of butter upon the bottom of the stewpan (capable 
 of holding about two gallons), into which put the meat 
 and bacon, with half a pint of water, two ounces of salt, 
 three middle-sized onions, with two cloves in each, one 
 turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half a head of celery; 
 put the cover upon the stewpan, which place over a sharp 
 fire, occasionally stirring round its contents with a wooden 
 spoon, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a 
 white thickish glaze, which will lightly adhere to the 
 spoon; fill up the stewpan with cold water, and when 
 upon the point of boiling, draw it to the corner of the fire, 
 where it must gently simmer for three hours, carefully 
 skimming off every particle of grease and scum; pass 
 your stock through a fine hair sieve, and it is ready for 
 use when required. 
 
 The above will make a delicious broth for all kinds of 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 105 
 
 clear soups, and of course for thick soups or purees; by 
 boiling it rather faster about five minutes before passing, 
 you will be better enabled to take off every particle of 
 grease from the surface. In making a stock of beef pro¬ 
 ceed as above, but allow double the time to simmer; 
 mutton or lamb, if any trimmings, might also be used; if 
 beef, use seven pounds; if mutton, eight; or lamb, seven, 
 of course bones and all included; with care, this broth 
 would be quite clear. To give a little colour, as required 
 for all clear soups, use a little brown gravy or browning, 
 but never attempt to brown it by letting it colour at the 
 bottom of the stewpan, for in that case you would destroy 
 the greater part of the osmazome. 
 
 185. ANOTHER WAY, more economical. —Instead 
 of cutting up the knuckle of veal so small, cut it in 
 four or five pieces only, and leave the bacon in one 
 piece; then, when the broth is passed, take out the veal, 
 which is very excellent served with a little of the broth 
 for gravy, and the bacon with a few greens upon another 
 dish. This is as I always eat it myself; but some persons 
 may probably prefer a little parsley-and-butter sauce 
 or piquant sauce, served with it. Should any of the veal 
 be left until cold, it might be cut into thin slices, and 
 gradually warmed in either of the before-mentioned 
 sauces. Should you make your stock from the leg or shin 
 of beef, stew it double the time, preserve the vegetables 
 boiled in the stock, and serve with beef, or serve the beef 
 with some nice sharp sauce over; the remainder, if cold, 
 may also be hashed in the ordinary way. If of mutton, 
 and you have used the scrags of the neck, the breast, 
 head, or the chump of the loin, keep them in as large 
 pieces as possible; and, when done, serve with a few 
 mashed turnips, and caper sauce, separately; if any re- 
 
106 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 inaining until cold, mince it. Lamb would be seldom 
 used for stock, being much too expensive; but in case of 
 an abundance, which may sometimes happen in the country, 
 proceed the same as for mutton. 
 
 186. BROWN GRAVIES.—Rub an ounce of butter 
 over the bottom of a stewpan capable of holding about 
 three quarts ; have ready peeled four onions, cut them into 
 thick slices, with which cover the bottom of the stewpan; 
 over these lay about three pounds of beef from the leg or 
 shin, cut into thin slices, with the bone chopped very 
 small; add a small carrot, a turnip cut in slices, and a 
 couple of cloves ; set the stewpan upon a gentle fire for ten 
 minutes, shaking it round occasionally to prevent burning; 
 after which let it go upon a slow fire for upwards of an 
 hour, until the bottom is covered with a blackish glaze; 
 but not burnt; when properly done, and ready for filling 
 up, you will perceive the fat that runs from the meat quite 
 clear, fill up the stewpan with cold water, add a tea¬ 
 spoonful of salt; and when upon the point of boiling, set 
 it on a corner of the fire, where let it simmer gently about 
 an hour, skimming off all the fat and scum which may rise 
 to the surface; when done pass it through a fine sieve 
 into a basin, and put by to use for the following pur¬ 
 poses:—For every kind of roast meat, poultry, or game 
 especially ; also, to give a good colour to soups and 
 sauces. This gravy will keep several days, by boiling it 
 every other day. Although beef is the most proper meat 
 for the above purpose, it may be made of veal, mutton, 
 lamb, or even with fresh pork, rabbits, or poultry. 
 
 187. BROWNING.—When in business, and not so 
 much time to devote to the kitchen, I used to make shif f 
 with a browning from the following receipt, using, how 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 107 
 
 ever, but a very few drops: put two ounces of powdered 
 sugar into a middling-sized stewpan, which place over a 
 slow fire; when beginning to melt, stir it round with a 
 wooden spoon until getting quite black, then pour over 
 half a pint of cold water: leave it to dissolve, and take a 
 little for use when required. Burnt onions are used in 
 France for this purpose. 
 
 188. GLAZE is an almost indispensable article in a 
 cuisine bourgeoises and should be kept by all persons in 
 the middle classes of life, the advantage being that it will 
 keep for months together, is very simple to make, and is 
 always useful in cookery, however so humble; in fact, 
 with it you can dress a very good dinner with very little 
 trouble. 
 
 Make a stock as directed in No. 184, but omitting the 
 salt, which, when done, pass through a cloth into a basin; 
 then fill the stewpan up a second time with hot water, and 
 let boil four hours longer to obtain all the succulence 
 from the meat, then pass it through a cloth the same as 
 the first; then pour both stocks in a large stewpan to¬ 
 gether, set it over the fire, and let it boil as fast as pos¬ 
 sible, leaving a large spoon in, to stir occasionally and 
 prevent its boiling over ; when reduced to about three 
 pints, pour it into a smaller stewpan, set again to boil at 
 the corner, skimming well if required ; when reduced to a 
 quart, place it quite over the fire, well stirring with a 
 wooden spoon until forming a thickish glaze (which wfill 
 adhere to the spoon) of a fine yellowish-brown colour: 
 pour it into a basin, or, if for keeping any time, into a 
 long bladder, from which cut a slice and use where 
 directed. 
 
 Where, however, only a small quantity is required, re¬ 
 duce only the second stock, using the first for either soup 
 
108 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 or sauce; but in that case the salt must not be omitted 
 from the first stock, but from the second only. Veal at all 
 times makes the best glaze, but any kinds of meat, game, 
 or poultry, will produce more or less. 
 
 189. TO CLARIFY STOCK, if required .—In case, by 
 some accident, your stock should not be clear, put it (say 
 three quarts) into a stewpan, and place it over a good 
 fire, skim well, and, when boiling, have ready the whites 
 of three eggs, (carefully separated from their yolks,) to 
 which add half a pint of water; whisk well together; then 
 add half a pint of the boiling stock gradually, still whisk¬ 
 ing the eggs; then whisk the boiling stock, pouring the 
 whites of eggs, &c., in whilst so doing, which continue 
 until nearly boiling again, then take it from the fire, let 
 it remain until the whites of eggs separate themselves, 
 pass it through a clean fine cloth into a basin. [This must 
 be taken as a rule for every kind of clear soup, which 
 must be strictly followed by every person wishing to profit 
 by this little work. These principles, once learned, would 
 be useful at all times, and save a great deal of useless 
 reference in the perusal of these receipts; and no persons 
 can make themselves answerable for the success of any 
 individual in making soups if the instructions recom¬ 
 mended be not strictly followed. The following rule 
 should be therefore punctually attended to.] 
 
 All clear soups ought not to be too strong of meat, and 
 must be of a light brown sherry or straw colour. All 
 white or brown thick soups should be rather thin, with 
 just sufficient consistency to adhere lightly to a spoon 
 when hot; soups of fish, poultry, or game especially. All 
 purees, no matter whether of meat or vegetables, require 
 to be somewhat thicker, which may be ascertained by its 
 adhering more thickly to the spoon. Every Italian soup 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 109 
 
 must be very clear, rather stronger of meat, and the colour 
 of pale sherry. 
 
 By following the few foregoing observations, experience 
 will teach you volumes; for as there is a great difference 
 in the quality of different materials, (flour, for instance, 
 which, if strong, would tend to thicken, but if weak, 
 actually almost turns to water by boiling,) therefore your 
 judgment, with the above few important remarks, will 
 make you more perfect than the most precise quantities of 
 weights and measurements upon that important point. 
 
 190. CLEAR VEGETABLE SOUP.—Peel a mid- 
 dling-sized carrot and turnip, which cut first into slices, then 
 into small square pieces about the size of dice ; peel also 
 eighteen button onions; wash the whole in cold water 
 and drain them upon a sieve; when dry put them into a 
 stewpan with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of 
 powdered sugar; set them upon a very sharp fire for ten 
 minutes, tossing them over every now and then until the 
 vegetables become covered with a thin shiny glaze, which 
 may take rather more than the before-mentioned time; 
 care, however, must be taken, for should you let them get 
 brown, the flavour of the soup would be spoiled; whilst 
 upon the other hand, if put in whilst surrounded with a 
 whitish liquid, your soup would look white and unsightly. 
 With a little attention, however, success is certain; and, 
 once accomplished, there would be no difficulty in making 
 any vegetable soups or sauce, therefore it is very desirable 
 to know how T to do it properly. When done, pour two 
 quarts of clear broth over them, set it upon the fire, and 
 when upon the point of boiling, place it at the corner to 
 simmer, until the vegetables are quite tender, (the onions 
 especially,) carefully skimming off all the butter as it rises 
 to the surface; it will require about half an hour’s sim- 
 
110 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 mering, and there should be half a pound of vegetables to 
 two quarts of stock; taste if properly seasoned, which it 
 ought to be with the above proportions, but use your own 
 judgment accordingly. 
 
 The only difference to be made in these descriptions of 
 soup is in the way the vegetables are cut; cutters for the 
 purpose may be purchased at any brazier’s shop, either in 
 London or the country, at a trifling expense. 
 
 191. PRINTANIERE SOUP.—Cut a small quantity 
 of vegetables, as in the last, but rather less carrot and 
 turnip, introducing a little celery, leek, and young spring 
 onions, instead of the button onions; proceed exactly as 
 before, but ten minutes before taking it from the fire, wash 
 a few leaves of sorrel, which cut small andputinto the soup, 
 with six sprigs of chervil; in summer, a few fresh boiled 
 peas or French beans served in it is an improvement. 
 
 In whatever shape you may cut the vegetables for soup, 
 always be cautious not to cut some pieces larger than 
 others, and the whole of them rather small than large; for 
 if some pieces should be small and others large, the 
 smaller pieces would be quite in puree, whilst the larger 
 ones would still be quite hard, which would cause your 
 soup not only to eat badly, but give it an unsightly ap¬ 
 pearance, for the vegetable boiled to a puree would make 
 the soup thick. The above remark, although simple, is 
 still very important. 
 
 192. JULIENNE SOUP.—This soup is entirely the 
 hereditary property of France, and is supposed to be so 
 called from the months of June and July, when all 
 vegetables are in full season; and to make it in reality as 
 originally made, a small quantity of every description of 
 vegetables should be used, including lettuce, sorrel, and 
 

 SOUPS. Ill 
 
 tarragon; however, some few sorts of vegetables, mixed 
 together, make a most estimable soup. Weigh half a 
 pound of the vegetables in fair proportions to each other; 
 that is, carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and leeks, which 
 cut into small fillets an inch in length, and of the thickness 
 of a trussing-needle; when done, wash dry, and pass 
 them in butter and sugar as before, add two quarts of clear 
 soup, adding, just before it is done, a little sorrel, cabbage- 
 lettuce, and chervil or peas, if handy, but it will be excel¬ 
 lent without either. 
 
 193. CLEAR TURNIP SOUP.—Cut, with a round 
 vegetable scoop, about forty pieces of turnip, of the shape 
 and size of small marbles, which put into a stewpan, with 
 sugar and butter as before, but fry them of a light brownish 
 colour, add two quarts of broth, and finish the soup as in 
 the previous receipts. A tablespoonful of Italian paste, 
 previously half boiled in water, then drained and finished 
 in the soup, is also an improvement. 
 
 194. CLEAR ARTICHOKE SOUP. —Peel twelve 
 Jerusalem artichokes, which well wash, then cut as many 
 round scoops as possible, the same as in the last, proceed¬ 
 ing exactly the same. The remainder of either turnips, 
 artichokes, or carrots, may be boiled, and mashed with a 
 little butter, pepper, and salt, and served as a vegetable, 
 or reserved to make a soup puree; the remains of other 
 vegetables from the previous soups should also be re¬ 
 served for flavouring of stock, instead of using the fresh 
 vegetables. 
 
 195. VERMICELLI.—Put a quart of clear stock into 
 a stewpan upon the fire, and when boiling, add two ounces 
 of vermicelli; boil gently ten minutes, and it is ready to 
 serve. 
 
112 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 196. ITALIAN PASTE.—Procure some small Italian 
 paste, in stars, rings, or any other shape, but small; pm 
 on a quart of stock, and when boiling, add two ounces of 
 the paste; boil twenty minutes, or rather more, when it is 
 ready to serve. 
 
 197. SEMOULINA.—Take one quart of stock, and 
 when boiling add two tablespoonfuls of semoulina; boil 
 twenty minutes, and it is then done. Proceed the same 
 also with tapioca and sago. 
 
 198. MACARONI.—Boil a quarter of a pound of maca¬ 
 roni in a quart of water for ten minutes, then strain it off, 
 and throw it into two quarts of boiling stock; let simmer 
 gently for half an hour, when serve with grated cheese, 
 upon a plate separately, 
 
 199. RICE.—Well wash two ounces of the best Patna 
 rice, strain off the water, put the rice into a stewpan, with 
 a quart of cold stock, place it upon the fire, and let simmer 
 about half an hour, until the rice is very tender, but not 
 in pulp. 
 
 200. MUTTON BROTH.—Any description of trim¬ 
 mings of mutton may be used for broth, but the scrag ends 
 of the neck are usually chosen. Put two scrags into a stew- 
 pan (having previously jointed the bones), with three onions, 
 three turnips, and one carrot; fill up the stewpan with a 
 gallon of water, and place it upon the fire ; when boiling, 
 set it at the corner, where let it sim mer for three hours, keep¬ 
 ing it well skimmed ; then cut a small carrot, two turnips 
 an onion, with a little leek and celery, into small square 
 pieces, which put into another stewpan, with a wineglass¬ 
 ful of pearl-barley; skim every particle of fat from the 
 broth, which pour through a hair-sieve over them; let 
 the whole boil gently at the corner of the fire until the 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 113 
 
 barley is tender, when it is ready to serve; the meat may 
 be trimmed into neat pieces and served with the broth, or 
 separately with melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce. 
 Half or even a quarter of the above quantity can be made 
 by reducing the ingredients in proportion. 
 
 201. IRISH SOUP MADE OF MUTTON BROTH. 
 —This soup is made similar to the last, adding ten or 
 twelve small mealy potatoes cut into large dice, omitting 
 the other vegetables, which being boiled to a puree thicken 
 the broth; just before serving, throw in twenty heads of 
 parsley, and at the same time add a few flowers of mari¬ 
 gold, which will really give it a very pleasing flavour. 
 
 202. SCOTCH COCK-A-LEEKIE.—Trim two or 
 three bunches of fine winter leeks, cutting off the roots 
 and part of the heads, then split each in halves lengthwise, 
 and each half into three, which wash well in two or three 
 waters, then put them into a stewpan, with a stock pre¬ 
 viously made as directed (No. 184), and a fowl trussed as 
 for boiling; let the whole simmer very gently at the corner 
 of the fire for three hours, keeping it well skimmed, 
 seasoning a little if required; half an hour before serving 
 add two dozen French plums, without breaking them; 
 when ready to serve, take out the fowl, which cut into 
 neat pieces, place them in a tureen, and pour the leeks 
 and broth over, the leeks being then partly in puree; if 
 too thick, however, add a drop more broth or water. 
 Should the leeks happen to be old and strong, it would 
 be better to blanch them five minutes in a gallon of boiling 
 water previous to putting them in the stock. 
 
 Although an old cock is usually procured in Scotland 
 for the above purpose, I prefer a young fowl; but should 
 an old one be most handy, stew it a long time in the 
 
 i 
 
114 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 stock before passing it. This soup will keep good several 
 days, and would improve by warming a second time. 
 
 203. OX-TAIL SOUP.—Cut up two ox-tails, separat¬ 
 ing them at the joints, put a small piece of butter at the 
 bottom of a stewpan, then put in the ox-tails, with a 
 carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a leek, and 
 a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; add half a pint 
 of water, and twelve grains of whole pepper, set over a 
 sharp fire, stirring occasionally, until the bottom of the 
 stewpan is covered with a thickish brown glaze, then add 
 a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it well in, and fill up the 
 stewpan with three quarts of water, add a tablespoonful 
 of salt, and stir occasionally until boiling; then set it upon 
 the corner of the stove, skim well, add a gill of good 
 brown gravy, or a few drops of browning, and let simmer 
 until the tails are stewed very tender, the flesh coming 
 easily from the bones, then take them out immediately, 
 and put them into your tureen; pass the soup through a 
 hair sieve over them, add a head of celery, previously cut 
 small, and boiled in a little stock, if approved of, and serve. 
 
 Ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the 
 flour, and serving with vegetables, as directed for the clear 
 vegetable soup (No. 190). 
 
 204. OX-CHEEK SOUP.—Blanch in boiling water 
 two ox-cheeks, cut off the beard, \ake away all the bone, 
 which chop up, and cut the flesh into middling-sized 
 pieces, leaving the cheek-part whole ; put all together into 
 a stewpan, with six quarts of water, a tablespoonful of salt, 
 ten peppercorns, two carrots, two turnips, one leek, one 
 head of celery, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; 
 let it stew at the corner of the fire six hours, keeping it 
 well skimmed, then take out the fleshy part of the cheeks, 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 115 
 
 and pass the broth through a hair sieve into another stew- 
 pan ; mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a pint of cold 
 water, which pour into it, and stir over the fire until boil¬ 
 ing, when place it at the corner (adding two heads of 
 celery, cut very fine, and a glass of sherry); when the 
 celery is tender, cut the meat into small square pieces, keep 
 them warm in the tureen, and when the soup is ready, pour 
 over, and serve; give it a nice colour with browning. 
 
 Sheep’s or lamb’s heads also make very good soup by 
 following the above receipt, and adding two pounds of 
 veal, mutton, or beef to the stock; two heads would be 
 sufficient, and they would not require so long to stew. 
 
 205. WHITE MOCK-TURTLE SOUP.—Procure 
 half a calf’s head (scalded, not skinned), bone it, cut up a 
 knuckle of veal, also the boned head, which put into a stew- 
 pan, well buttered at the bottom, with half a pound of lean 
 ham, an ounce of salt, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a 
 head of celery, a leek, a bunch of parsley, and a bay-leaf, 
 add half a pint of water; set it upon the fire, moving it 
 round occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is co¬ 
 vered with a white glaze; then add six quarts of water, and 
 put in the half head, let simmer upon tne corner of the fire 
 for two hours and a half, or until the head is tender, then 
 take it out, and press it between two dishes, and pass the 
 stock through a hair sieve into a basin; then in another 
 stewpan have a quarter of a pound of butter, with a sprig 
 of thyme, basil, marjoram, and bay-leaf, let the butter get 
 quite hot, then add six ounces of flour to form a roux, 
 stir over a sharp fire a few minutes, keeping it quite 
 white; stand it off the fire to cool, then add the stock, 
 stir over the fire until boiling, then stand it at the corner, 
 skim off all the fat, and pass it through a hair sieve into 
 another stewpan; cut the head into pieces an inch 
 
 I 2 
 
116 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 square, but not too thick, and put them into the soup, 
 which season with a little cayenne pepper; when the 
 pieces are hot, add a gill of cream, and pour it into your 
 tureen. 
 
 The above quantity would make two tureens of soup, 
 and will keep good several days, but of course half the 
 quantity could be made. 
 
 206. BROWN MOCK-TURTLE.—Proceed the same 
 as in the last article, only colouring the stock by drawing 
 it down to a brown glaze, likewise adding half a pint of 
 brown gravy (No. 186), omitting the cream, and adding 
 two glasses of sherry. If no gravy, use browning, and 
 make a brown roux instead of a white one. 
 
 207. MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.—Cut up a small 
 knuckle of veal, which put into a stewpan,with a piece of 
 butter, half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, a turnip, three 
 onions, and six apples, add half a pint of water; set the stew- 
 pan over a sharp fire, moving the meat round occasionally, 
 let remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with 
 a brownish glaze, then add three tablespoonfuls of curry 
 powder, one of curry paste, and half a pound of flour, 
 stir well in, and fill the stewpan with a gallon of water; 
 add a spoonful of salt, the half of one of sugar, when 
 boiling, place it at the corner of the fire, and let it 
 simmer two hours and a half, skimming off all the fat as 
 it rises, then pass it through a tammy into a tureen; trim 
 some of the pieces of veal, and put it back in the stewpan 
 to boil, and serve with plain boiled rice separate. Ox¬ 
 tails or pieces of rabbits, chickens, &c., left Rom a pre¬ 
 vious dinner, may be served in it instead of the veal. The 
 veal is exceedingly good to eat. Taste, before serving, if 
 quite palatable. 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 117 
 
 208. GIBLET SOUP.—Clean two sets of giblets, 
 which soak for two hours, cut them into equal sizes, and 
 put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, four pounds of veal or beef, half a pound of ham, a 
 carrot, a turnip, three onions, two ounces of salt, and a 
 bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves ; place the stew- 
 pan over a sharp fire, stirring the meat round occasion¬ 
 ally ; when the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a 
 light glaze, add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir well in, 
 and fill up with a gallon of water; add about a pint of 
 brown gravy (No. 186), stir occasionally until boiling, 
 then set it at the corner of the stove to simmer, keeping it 
 well skimmed; when the giblets are tender, take them 
 out, put them into your tureen, pass the soup through a 
 hair sieve over, and serve; twenty cooked button onions, 
 or any small shaped vegetables served in it, are very good, 
 as is also a glass of port wine. 
 
 209. OYSTER SOUP.—Put four dozen of oysters into 
 a stewpan with their liquor, place upon the fire; when 
 upon the point of boiling, drain them upon a sieve, 
 catching the liquor in a basin.; take off the beards, which 
 put into the liquor, and the oysters into a soup tureen; 
 then put a quarter of a pound of butter into another 
 stewpan over the fire, and when melted add six ounces of 
 flour, stir over a slow fire for a short time, but keeping it 
 quite white; let it cool, then add the liquor and beards 
 of the oysters, a quart of milk, and two quarts of stock 
 (No. 184), stir over the fire until boiling, then season 
 with a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne 
 pepper, five peppercorns, half a blade of mace, a table¬ 
 spoonful of Harvey sauce, half ditto of essence of anchovies; 
 let boil quickly at the corner for ten minutes, skim it well, 
 add a gill of cream, if handy, strain through a hair sieve 
 over the oysters, and serve. 
 
118 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 210. THE FISHERMAN’S SOUP.—Put a quarter of 
 a pound of butter into a stewpan, and when melted add 
 six ounces of flour, stir well together oyer a slow fire a 
 few minutes; when cool, add one quart of milk, and two 
 quarts of stock (No. 184), stir over a fire until boiling; 
 having previously filleted two soles, add the bones and 
 trimmings to the soup, with four cloves, one blade of mace, 
 two bay-leaves, one spoonful of essence of anchovies, one 
 ditto of Harvey sauce, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, a 
 little sugar and salt if required; let the whole boil quickly 
 at the corner for ten minutes, keeping it well skimmed; 
 cut each fillet of sole into six pieces, put them into 
 another stewpan, with half a handful of picked parsley« 
 pass the soup through a hair sieve over, boil again ten 
 minutes, add a gill of cream, if possible, and it is ready to 
 serve. Fillets of brill may be used instead of soles. 
 
 211. AUTUMN SOUP.—Cutup four cabbage-lettuces 
 one cos ditto, a handful of sorrel, and a little tarragon and 
 chervil, when well washed and drained put them into a 
 stewpan, with two cucumbers finely sliced, and four ounces 
 of butter, place them over a brisk fire, stirring occasionally 
 until very little liquid remains, then add two tablespoon¬ 
 fuls of flour, stirring it well in, then pour over three 
 quarts of stock, made as directed (No. 184), adding a 
 quart of young and fresh green peas; half an hour’s 
 boiling will suffice for this delicious soup, and the flavour 
 of the vegetables will be fully preserved; season with a 
 teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar. 
 
 212. HODGE-PODGE.—Cut two pounds of fresh scrag 
 of mutton into small pieces, which put into a stewpan, 
 with three quarts of cold water and a tablespoonful of salt, 
 set it upon the fire, and when boiling place it at the corner 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 119 
 
 to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; let it simmer an 
 hour, then add a good-sized carrot, two turnips, two 
 large onions cut into small dice, and six cabbage-lettuces, 
 if in season (the whole well washed), and let simmer until 
 quite tender ; skim off all the fat, and serve either with the 
 meat in the soup or separately. If in season, a pint of 
 green peas boiled in the soup is a great improvement. 
 
 213. FRENCH CABBAGE SOUP.—This is a soup 
 very much in vogue amongst the middle classes of the 
 French people. Having tasted some at Boulogne, I could 
 not resist the idea of making it in England, which was 
 pronounced excellent; it is very economical, and may 
 satisfy a numerous family at a trifling expense. Put a 
 gallon of water into a saucepan, with two pounds of 
 streaky pickled pork or bacon, whichever most convenient, 
 to which add a couple of pounds of white cabbage, cut in 
 strips (using every part but the stalk, and previously well 
 washed), two large onions, a carrot, a turnip, and a head 
 of celery; let the whole boil three or four hours, until the 
 pork is tender, skimming off all the fat, season with a little 
 black pepper, brown sugar, and salt, if required (which is 
 not very frequently the case, the pork or bacon generally 
 being sufficiently so), lay slices of bread in your tureen 
 (about one pound), pour the soup over; keep the tureen 
 covered ten minutes, until the bread is soaked, and it is 
 ready to serve. The pork or bacon may be either served 
 separate or cut into small square pieces, and served in the 
 soup. A few mealy potatoes are sometimes introduced, 
 or a quart of large green peas, or a pint of dry split peas. 
 You must observe that vegetables in France are much 
 more used than in this country, as there are but few poor 
 people there who do not possess a little garden, in which 
 they grow their own. 
 
120 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 It is also frequently made maigre by omitting the pork 
 or bacon, adding more vegetables of all kinds, and a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, and frequently where they 
 have nothing else but cabbage, they make it only of that: 
 now, setting all national feeling aside respecting the poverty 
 of their meals, I have known strong healthy men make 
 a hearty meal of it, preferring it to meat, of which they 
 scarcely ever partake. 
 
 214. PUREE OF VEGETABLE SOUP.—Peel and 
 cut up very finely three onions, three turnips, one carrot, 
 and four potatoes, which put into a stewpan, with a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham or bacon, and a 
 bunch of parsley; pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire, 
 then add a good spoonful of flour, which mix well in, add 
 two quarts of stock, and a pint of boiling milk; stir it until 
 boiling; season with a little salt and sugar, rub it through 
 a tammy, put it into another stewpan, boil again, skim, 
 and serve with croutons of fried bread, as for Palestine 
 Soup. It ought to be thickish, but not too much so. 
 
 215. PALESTINE SOUP, or PUREE OF ARTI¬ 
 CHOKES.—Have a quarter of a pound of lean bacon or 
 ham, as also an onion, a turnip, and a little celery, cut the 
 whole into small thin slices, and put them into a stewpan, 
 with four ounces of butter; place them over a sharp fire, 
 keepingthem stirred, about twenty minutes, or until forming 
 a whitish glaze at the bottom; then have ready washed, 
 peeled, and cut into thin slices, about twelve artichokes, 
 which put into the stewpan with a pint of broth or water, 
 and stew until quite tender, then mix in two tablespoonfuls 
 of flour quite smoothly, add two quarts of stock made as 
 directed [No. 184), and half a pint of milk; keep it con¬ 
 stantly stirred until boiling; season with a teaspoonful of 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 121 
 
 salt, and two of sugar, then rub it through a tammy, place 
 it again in a stewpan; let it boil five minutes, keeping it 
 well skimmed, and serve with very small croutons of 
 bread (fried in butter, and dried upon a cloth) in the 
 tureen; a gill of cream, stirred in at the moment of serving, 
 is a great improvement, although it may be omitted. 
 
 216. PUREE OF CAULIFLOWER SOUP.—Pro¬ 
 ceed as described for the puree of artichokes, but omitting 
 the artichokes, and substituting four middling-sized cauli¬ 
 flowers, previously boiled and chopped fine. 
 
 217. PUREE OF TURNIP SOUP is likewise made 
 in the same manner as a puree of artichokes, substituting 
 twelve young turnips for artichokes and adding half a 
 tablespoonful more of flour. 
 
 218. CRECY A LA REINE, or PUREE of WHITE 
 CARROT.—Procure six large white Belgian carrots, 
 scrape them, and then cut into very thin slices; put them 
 into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, the 
 same of lean bacon or ham, a large onion and turnip, and 
 a very white head of celery, all cut into thin slices, and 
 proceed as for Palestine Soup, No. 215. 
 
 219. CRECY SOUP, or PUREE OF CARROTS.— 
 Procure five or six large carrots, as red as possible, which 
 well scrape, then shave them into very thin slices, taking- 
 off' all the exterior red, but not using the centre, then peel 
 and slice a large onion, a turnip, a quarter of a pound of 
 lean ham, a few sprigs of parsley, and two bay-leaves; 
 put them into a stewpan, with four ounces of butter, fry 
 the whole of a light yellowish colour, then add the carrots, 
 with a pint of water, and let them stew until perfectly 
 tender, mix in two ounces of flour quite smoothly, and add 
 
122 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 five pints of stock (No. 184); season with a little salt and 
 sugar, and stir upon the fire until boiling, a quarter of an 
 hour, when pass it through a tammy, and finish and serve 
 as in the preceding; no cream, however, must be added. 
 This soup ought to be of a red colour. Boiled rice or 
 fried croutons may be served in it. It must be very smooth, 
 and not too thick. 
 
 220. GREEN PEA SOUP.—Put two quarts of green 
 peas into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 a quarter of a pound of lean ham, cut into small dice, two 
 onions in slices, and a few sprigs of parsley; add a quart 
 of cold water, and with the hands rub all well together; 
 then pour off the water, cover the stewpan close, and 
 stand it over a sharp fire, stirring the contents round 
 occasionally; when very tender, add two tablespoonfuls 
 of flour, which mix well in mashing the peas with your 
 spoon against the sides of the stewpan, add two quarts of 
 stock, or broth from the Pot-au-feu, a tablespoonful of 
 sugar, and a little pepper and salt, if required; boil all 
 well together five minutes, when rub it through a tammy 
 or hair sieve ; then put it into another stewpan, with a 
 pint of boiling milk; boil five minutes, skim well, and 
 pour it into your tureen. It must not be too thick; serve 
 with croutons of bread as for Palestine. 
 
 221. WINTER PEA SOUP.—Wash a quart of split 
 peas, which put into a stewpan, with half a pound of 
 streaked bacon, two onions in slices, two pounds of veal 
 or beef, cut into small pieces, and a little parsley, thyme, 
 and bay-leaf; add a gallon of water, with a little salt and 
 sugar, place it upon the fire, and when boiling, stand it 
 at the side until the peas are boiled to a puree, and the 
 water has reduced to half; then take out the meat, which 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 123 
 
 put upon a dish, to be eaten with the bacon, keeping it 
 hot, rub the soup through a hair sieve or tammy, put it 
 into another stewpan, and when boiling, serve. The meat 
 may also be served in the tureen if approved of. Maigre 
 pea-soup may also be made by omitting the meat, adding 
 half a pound of butter, one quart of milk, and omitting a 
 quart of water. 
 
 222. LENTIL SOUP.—Cut three onions, a turnip, 
 and the half of a carrot, into very thin slices, which put 
 into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a few 
 sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and two bay-leaves, 
 add also one pound of leg of beef, cut into small dice; 
 set the stewpan upon the fire, stirring with a wooden 
 spoon, until its contents are fried rather brown, when add 
 one quart of lentils, and three quarts of water; let the whole 
 simmer until the lentils are very tender, when season with 
 nearly an ounce of salt, and half that quantity of sugar; 
 it is then ready to serve. 
 
 To make a puree of lentils:—when the soup is made, 
 strain off the broth, add a good spoonful of dour to the 
 lentils, which mash with a wooden spoon against the 
 side of the stewpan; then again put in the broth, boil all 
 up together, keeping it stirred with a spoon; rub it 
 through a tammy or hair sieve, again boil and skim, and 
 it is ready; serve with a few croutons of bread, as directed 
 for Palestine Soup. 
 
 223. MAIGRE SOUP.—Cut two onions into very 
 small dice, and put them into a stewpan, with two ounces 
 of butter; fry them a short time, but not to discolour 
 them; have ready three or four handfuls of well-washed 
 sorrel, which cut into ribands and put into the stewpan 
 with the onions, add one tablespoonful of dour, then mix 
 
124 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 well, then add a pint of milk and a quart of water; boil 
 altogether twenty minutes, keeping it stirred: season with 
 a teaspoonful of sugar and salt, take it from the fire, and 
 stir in quickly a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a 
 gill of cream or milk (it must not boil afterwards), put the 
 crust of a French roll, cut into strips, in the tureen, pour 
 the soup over, and serve very hot. 
 
 224. ONION SOUP MAIGRE.—Peel and cut six 
 large onions into small slices, put them into a stewpan, 
 with a quarter of a pound of butter, place them over the 
 fire until well fried, when well mix in a tablespoonful of 
 flour, and rather better than two quarts of water; boil until 
 the onions are quite tender, season with half a spoonful of 
 salt and a little pepper and sugar; finish with a liaison, 
 and serve as in the last. 
 
 225. HARE SOUP.—Put half a pound of butter into 
 a stewpan, and, when melted, add three quarters of a 
 pound of flour, and half a pound of streaked bacon, cut 
 into very small pieces; keep stirring over the fire until 
 becoming lightly browned. You have previously cut up 
 a hare into neat smallish pieces; put them into the stew¬ 
 pan, and keep stirring round over the fire until they are 
 set; then fill it up with five quarts of water; add two 
 onions, a head of celery, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and 
 bay-leaves, a blade of mace, and four cloves; when boiling, 
 season with one ounce of salt, and a little pepper, and let 
 it simmer at the corner until the pieces of hare are done, 
 which would be in about an hour if a young hare, but 
 double that time if a very old one; the better plan is to 
 try a piece occasionally. When done, take out the best 
 pieces, and the meat of the inferior ones pound in a 
 mortar, remove the bones, put it back in the soup, and 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 125 
 
 pass all through a tammy, put it again into a stewpan, boil 
 for ten minutes, and serve. The above quantity would be 
 sufficient for two tureens. A glass of port or sherry wine 
 may be added. Rabbit, pheasant, grouse, partridge, and 
 other game soups, may be made in the same way. 
 
 226. SEMOULINA GELATINEUSE. — Take four 
 pounds of veal, half-a-pound of gammon of bacon, which 
 cut into small pieces, one calf’s foot, two carrots, two 
 onions, two leeks, one head of celery; cut small, and 
 place in a stewpan, set over the fire; stir until a white 
 glaze is formed at the bottom of the pan, then fill up with 
 four quarts of water; simmer gently for four hours on 
 the corner of the stove; skim off the fat; strain into 
 another stewpan, which set on the fire again to boil; then 
 put two ounces of semoulina into a basin, one ounce of 
 flour; moisten both with half a pint of milk, stirring with a 
 wooden spoon; pour in the broth, and stir well; season 
 with a teaspoonful of salt, half a one of sugar; boil slowly 
 twenty minutes; it is then ready, and very strengthening 
 for weak constitutions. The addition of a few sprigs of 
 fresh parsley, or two of thyme, or bay-leaf, varies agree¬ 
 ably the taste. It is also very good cold in summer. 
 
 227. JENNY LIND’S SOUP. — This is the soup invented 
 
 and often partaken of by the celebrated cantatrice of the name it bears, 
 who partook of it every day when on a visit to the talented authoress, 
 Mrs. Anna Maria Hall, who was kind enough to forward it to me for this 
 edition. I consider it light and digestive. 
 
 Make about three quarts of stock, the same as No. 184, 
 which strain through a fine sieve into a middle-size stew¬ 
 pan; set it to boil; add to it three ounces of sago; boil 
 gently twenty minutes; skim; just previous to serving 
 break four fresh eggs, and place the yolk, entirely free 
 from the white, into a basin, beat them well with a spoon; 
 
126 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 add to it a gill of cream; take the pan from the fire, pour 
 in the yolks, stir quickly for one minute, serve immediately; 
 do not let it boil, or it will curdle, and would not be fit to 
 be partaken of. The stock being previously seasoned, it 
 only requires the addition of half a teaspoonful of sugar, 
 a little more salt, pepper, nutmeg * also thyme, parsley, 
 and bay-leaf will agreeably vary the flavour without inter¬ 
 fering with the quality. 
 
 228 . FRENCH POT-AU-FEU. —Out of this earthen pot 
 
 comes the favourite soup and bouilli, which has been everlastingly famed as 
 having been the support of several generations of all classes of society in 
 France; from the opulent to the poorest individuals, all pay tribute to its 
 excellence and worth. In fact, this soup and bouilli is to the French what 
 the roast beef and plum-pudding are on a Sunday to the English. No dinner 
 in France is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made 
 without the pot-au-feu. The following is the receipt:— 
 
 Put in the pot-au-feu six pounds of beef, four quarts of 
 water, set near the fire, skim; when nearly boiling, add a 
 spoonful and a half of salt, half a pound of liver, two 
 carrots, four turnips, eight young or two old leeks, one 
 head of celery, two onions and one burnt, with a clove in 
 each, and a piece of parsnip, skim again, and let simmer 
 four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and 
 then; take off part of the fat; put slices of bread into the 
 tureen, lay half the vegetables over, and half the broth, 
 and serve the meat separately with the vegetables around. 
 The remains of the broth from the pot-au-feu may be used 
 for any kind of soup instead of the stock, (No. 184.) The 
 best part of the beef for the pot-au-feu is the mouse-but¬ 
 tock, tops of the ribs, clod and stickings. 
 
 228 * CONGER EEL SOUP.— An immense consumption of 
 tbis fish now takes place in Paris amongst the lower orders, but not gene¬ 
 rally converted into soup ; but I do not doubt but what the following receipt 
 will find some amateurs. 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 127 
 
 Take four pounds of eels, well washed and skimmed, cut 
 into slices of the size of a five-shilling piece, and half an 
 inch thick; put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, melt it, add the pieces, and season with a table¬ 
 spoonful of salt, a quarter of an ounce of pepper, half an 
 ounce of sugar, two onions chopped fine, a little parsley, 
 a bay-leaf, half a pint of water; cover the pan, set it on a 
 slow fire for about half an hour, without stirring it, then 
 mix two ounces of flour with two pints of water, pour over 
 the fish, let it simmer for twenty minutes, stir the stewpan 
 gently, do not break the fish in taking it out. More or 
 less seasoning may be added, according to taste. This 
 soup, carefully made as above, is very inviting, and though 
 meagre, very nutritive. 
 
 228.** ANOTHER CONGER EEL SOUP.—Get six 
 pounds of eels, which skin and bone, save about two pounds 
 of the best part to cut in thin slices, which put by until 
 wanted, cut the rest into pieces, with a pound of lean veal, 
 beef, or lamb, and a quarter of a pound of lean bacon; put 
 in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter; two onions cut in 
 thin slices, a little carrot, celery, one bay-leaf, two sprigs 
 of thyme, four cloves, one ounce of salt, and half an ounce 
 of pepper, set it on a quick fire, stir with a wooden spoon 
 continually, until a white glaze is formed at the bottom of 
 the stewpan, add three quarts of water, let it simmer two 
 hours, skim, pass through a sieve into a basin, take a clean 
 saucepan, and put in a quarter of a pound of butter, three 
 tablespoonfuls of flour, place on the fire, and stir until 
 forming a white roux, let it cool a few minutes, pour the 
 stock in, boil for twenty minutes, keep stirring, then place 
 the pieces of eel in it and fifty leaves of fresh parsley, let 
 it simmer till tender, and serve. The addition of a little 
 Harvey or anchovy sauce will vary the flavour. 
 
128 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Of all aliments that have been given to the human race for nourishment, 
 none are more abundant or more easy to procure than this antediluvian 
 species, and yet of how few do we make use, and how slight is our knowledge 
 of their habits, for it is only within the last few years that the idea was 
 exploded that the herrings made an annual migration from the Arctic seas to 
 deposit their spawn on the shores of these islands. Fish possess, according to 
 their kind, a greater or less degree of nourishment, depending, like the animal, 
 in a great measure on those beautiful meadows at the bottom of the ocean, 
 where they feed; for even those which live upon some of a smaller kind, as the 
 cod on the haddock, this on the whiting, and this again on the mussel, or 
 other crustaceous fish which move but little from the place where they were 
 originally spawned, derive their nourishment from the herbs and the animal- 
 culae which those herbs produce that grow around them; the cod on the south¬ 
 east of the Bank of Newfoundland is as fine again in flavour as that on the 
 north-west side. Fish, of course, do not afford the same amount of nourish¬ 
 ment as meat, as they contain but a slight quantity of osmazome ; but its flesh 
 is refreshing, and often exciting. A curious circumstance has been observed 
 in respect to the animate parts of the creation which dra w their nourishment 
 from fish, as in birds and the human race, that they produce more females 
 when doing so than males. 
 
 It ought to be made an article of diet more often than it is, as the particles 
 it contains tend to purify the blood from the grossness it receives in partaking 
 of animal food ; and when taken at the commencement of dinner, tends to 
 assist the digestion of those substances which form the more substantial part 
 of the meal. 
 
 In the Receipts will be found those which I consider fit for the table ; but, 
 as a general rule to be observed, as in the feathered tribe, all those of beautiful 
 variegated colours (as the wrasse* kind) are more unfit to eat than any other; 
 as if the Great Creator of all, in order to please man, had destined some for 
 his nourishment, and others to gratify his senses by their melodious notes and 
 beautiful plumage. 
 
 * This fish is eaten in many parts of Great Britain, but I cannot recom¬ 
 mend it. 
 
FISH. 
 
 129 
 
 Nothing indicates its freshness so well as fish; the merest novice ought to 
 know it; their gills should be difficult to open, be red, and smell well: fins 
 tight’ and close; eyes bright, and not sunk; the contrary to this denotes 
 their being stale. 
 
 Of the round fish, the SALMON is considered the best and most delicate in 
 flavour, but varies considerably, according to the river in which it is caught; 
 for there is no doubt but that it returns to the river where it was originally 
 spawned, and its time of spawning varies in different rivers. The law, as it 
 at present exists, prevents the fishing for it between the 1st of September and 
 the 1st of February, yet there are many rivers where it does not begin to 
 enter until August; and in Loch Carra, co. Kerry, in Ireland, it is in season 
 all the year; yet in the Lake of Killarney, whose mouth adjoins that of the 
 Carra, it begins to be out of season in August. Until it attains the age of six 
 years, it is not called salmon, but is known and sold under different names : 
 as the first year, smelt ; the second, sprods ; third, morts ; fourth, fork-tails; 
 fifth, half-fish. That caught at sea is by far the best, it being fatter and more 
 tender; these we rarely have, as it is the interest of the owners of salmon- 
 fisheries to prevent the fishermen fishing for them with seine nets in the open 
 sea, and who do all they can to prevent it. The male is the finest flavoured fish, 
 and has more curd than the female. Of late years it has been considered that 
 this fish should be eaten as fresh as possible, for which purpose it is crimped 
 when alive, that it may be flaky, and the curd in it. In former times, it was 
 considered best to keep it two or three days; it is certain that, in keeping it, 
 the curd undergoes a change, which produces a volatile salt and oily and 
 balsamic particles, that render it nutritive and invigorating; it is diuretic, 
 pectoral, and restorative, and if eaten too profusely produces vomiting ; but 
 when the curd is in it, the flesh is hard and dry, lies heavy on the stomach, and 
 produces indigestion. To name any particular salmon as being the best, I 
 should have to name almost all the rivers of Great Britain alternately for each 
 month ; but for the early salmon, that is,- the months of February and Mar ch, I 
 prefer those which arrive in London from Aberdeen. This fish, when cut of 
 season, maybe distinguished by having large scarlet, purple, and blue spots on 
 its sides, the male snout long, the female snout hooked. When in season, the 
 colour ought to be a silvery pink grey; when cooked, the flesh should be of a 
 dark rose colour ; when out of season it is palesmall-headed fish are the best. 
 
 This fish was known to the Romans, who received it from Aquitaine and 
 the Moselle. 
 
 K 
 
130 
 
 FISH. 
 
 2*29. SALMON, PLAIN BOILED.—I prefer always 
 dressing this fish in slices from an inch to two inches in 
 thickness, boiling it in plenty of salt and water about 
 twenty minutes; the whole fish may be boiled, or the head 
 and shoulders of a large fish, but they require longer boil¬ 
 ing. Salmon eats firmer by not being put into the water 
 until boiling. Dress the fish upon a napkin, and serve 
 with lobster sauce, shrimp ditto, or plain melted butter in 
 a boat with fresh sprigs of parsley boiled a few minutes 
 in it. A salmon weighing about ten pounds will require 
 an hour’s gentle boiling ; a head and shoulders weighing 
 six pounds, half an hour: the remains may be dressed a 
 la creme, as directed for the turbot. 
 
 230. SALMON, SAUCE MATELOTE.—Cook three 
 good slices of salmon as directed in the last, or a large 
 salmon peal, trussed in the form of the letter S, dress it 
 upon a dish without a napkin, having previously drained 
 off all the water; put a quart of matelote sauce, No. 302, 
 under or over it. 
 
 231. BROILED SALMON.—Dip each piece in flour, 
 put it on a gridiron, turn occasionally; fifteen minutes 
 will give it a nice pale yellow colour; it should be served 
 with Dutch, or caper sauce. 
 
 Cod. —This fish, like the former, belongs to the northern parts of the 
 world ; its flavour and quality, like terrestrial animals, depend greatly on its 
 feeding-place, a few miles making a marked difference : it is exceedingly 
 voracious. I have seen taken from a quantity of white-bait one only three 
 inches long, having a shrimp an inch and a half long in its belly ; and in a 
 large one, three haddocks, weighing, when taken out, almost as much as 
 itself. It feeds also greatly on shell-fish, and seems to have a very powerful 
 gastric juice. We obtain them in London exceedingly fine, perhaps more so 
 than in any other town in the world : they are caught on the Dogger Bank, 
 and brought alive in wells, by boats, to Gravesend, and forwarded to London 
 
FISH. 
 
 131 
 
 •v*. 
 
 still alive, where they are immediately crimped; the flesh then becomes firm 
 and flaky, with a fine curd between each. Those are best with a small head 
 and thick at the neck. 
 
 232. TO BOIL COD FISH.—Crimped cod, as I have 
 before remarked, is preferable to the plain; it is likewise 
 better cut in slices than cooked whole; to boil it well, have 
 the water ready boiling, with one pound of salt to every 
 six quarts; put in your fish, draw your fish-kettle to the 
 corner of the fire, where let it simmer slowly from twenty 
 minutes to half an hour; w T hen done, the bone in the centre 
 w r ill draw out easily; if boiled too much, it would eat tough 
 and stringy; should the fish not be crimped, add more 
 salt to the water, it will cause the fish to eat firmer. 
 
 233. COD FISH SAUCED OVER WITH OYSTER 
 SAUCE.—Boil three slices of the fish as above, drain and 
 dress them upon a dish without a napkin, blanch three 
 dozen oysters, by putting them into a stewpan, with their 
 juice, upon the fire, move them round occasionally, do not 
 let them boil; as soon as they become a little firm, place 
 a sieve over a basin, pour in the oysters, beard them, put 
 the liquor again into a stewpan; when boiling, add two 
 cloves, half a blade of mace, six peppercorns, and two 
 ounces of butter, to which you have added a tablespoonful 
 of fiour, breaking it into small pieces, stir well together, 
 when boiling, season with a little salt, cayenne pepper, 
 and essence of anchovies, finish with a gill of cream or 
 milk, add the oysters, and sauce over. The remains of 
 the fish may be taken from the bone and placed upon a 
 dish, with a little of the above sauce (to which you have 
 added the yolks of two eggs), then sprinkle over with, 
 bread-crumbs, and place it twenty minutes in a hot oven 
 till the bread-crumbs become brown. 
 
132 
 
 FISH. 
 
 234. SALT FISH.—Choose the fish with a black skin, 
 and be particular in soaking it well; to boil, put it into 
 a fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water, place it over the 
 fire, and the moment it boils remove it to the corner, to 
 simmer until done, which, if a piece weighing about three 
 pounds, would be in about thirty minutes ; do not let it 
 boil fast, or the fish will eat hard and thready ; dish it 
 upon a napkin, with plain boiled parsnips and parsley 
 round, and serve egg sauce in a boat. 
 
 Ling, so called from a corruption of the word long. I have known them to 
 be ten feet ; they are rarely met with fresh in London, being generally salted, 
 and that for a foreign market. They are a very strong-flavoured fish; but if 
 cooked properly, and in season, are far from being bad; if in season, their 
 liver should be pale or almost white, when it is full of oil ;* but the moment 
 the liver turns red, and the oil leaves it to go into the cellular membranes, 
 then it becomes out of season and rank in flavour : from the 1st of January to 
 the end of May they may be considered in season. Small ones, from eighteen 
 to twenty-four inches, are good eating all the year ; their freshness is known 
 like the cod, and it may be cooked in every way like it; the small ones may 
 be stewed like eels. 
 
 IIalee .—This rarely comes, fresh or salted, into the London market, as it is 
 considered a coarse fish. It is in season in August, September, and October, 
 and the same character which distinguishes the cod is in this : it cannot be 
 cooked too fresh; it rarely exceeds twenty pounds in weight. Many prefer that 
 it should be salted for twelve hours previous to cooking—I differ; others 
 despise it, and call it a mud-fish ; and, when salted, Poor John. Is not a sole 
 a mud-fish, and what has a finer flavour ? I think the reason it is so much 
 despised is, that it comes in such abundance, that the saying of “ toujours 
 perdrix” may be applied to it. I, however, trust that as our friends in 
 Cornwall and Devon have now learnt to send fish up to town by rail, we 
 may be treated with a few hake. It should be dressed like haddock. 
 
 * Directions for obtaining this pure and cold-drawn I will give you in a 
 future letter. 
 
FISH. 
 
 133 
 
 The Forked Hake never comes into the market; but should it in future do 
 so, it should also be cooked like haddock. 
 
 Haddock, the callarias and galeris of the Romans. This is also the fish that 
 it is said St. Peter took the tribute money from, and thus gave the impression 
 of his finger and thumb, where it remains in confirmation of the miracle. It 
 is a very fine flavour when fresh and in season, which is when the roe is very 
 small; the time depends on the place where taken, but generally about Oc¬ 
 tober. I think one weighing from six to seven pounds is the best size, although 
 I have had them at twelve pounds. They follow the young herrings and 
 sprats ; and, when feeding on them, their flesh is richer than when feeding on 
 whitings: they cannot be eaten too fresh. Those received in the London 
 market of a large size are called Dublin Bay, but which generally come from 
 the Sussex and Hampshire coast. The same features as in the cod will tell 
 if they are fresh. 
 
 235. DUBLIN BAY HADDOCK.—This is a fish 
 which I can highly recommend, both for its firmness and 
 lightness; it is excellent plain boiled, and served with a 
 cream sauce, or any other fish sauce. But the better plan 
 is to cut four or five incisions upon each side of the fish, 
 an inch deep, then put it into a deep dish, and cover well 
 with salt, let it remain about two hours, then put the fish 
 in boiling water, to simmer from thirty to forty minutes; 
 if a fish of five or six pounds in weight, dish it on a nap- 
 bin garnished with plain boiled parsnips and parsley, with 
 egg sauce in a boat. The common haddocks may be 
 dressed precisely the same. 
 
 236. BAKED HADDOCK.—Fill the interior of the 
 fish with veal stuffing, sew it up with packthread, and truss 
 it with the tail in its mouth, rub a piece of butter over the 
 back, or egg and bread-crumb it over, set it on a baking- 
 dish, which put it in a warmish oven to bake; if a Dublin 
 Bay haddock, it would take from three quarters of an hour 
 to an hour, but a common haddock would require but half 
 
134 
 
 FISH. 
 
 an hoar. The better plan is to run the point of a knife 
 clown to the backbone, from which, if the flesh parts 
 easily, it is clone ; dress it upon a dish without a napkin, 
 and serve a Beyrout sauce, or any other, round. 
 
 Sturgeon derives its name from the German stoeren , to stir, to rake up ; it 
 is from the same word we derive our word stir. It is the accipenser of the 
 Romans. This fish has long been in use in England, but, from its scarcity, 
 it has always been expensive—indeed, it has been considered as a royal fish; 
 for every one caught in the rivers of England belongs to the Queen, with the 
 exception of the river Thames, which belong to the Lord Mayor. A very 
 large one was caught a few years since in a mill-pond above Yauxhall Bridge. 
 They ascend the rivers thus high, in order to avoid pursuit from other fish, 
 though in form and body as large as a shark, yet they are the most harmless 
 of fish, having neither jaw-bone nor teeth: they have been caught eighteen 
 feet in length. The flavour of the young sturgeon is extremely delicate, but 
 that materially depends upon the river in which it is caught, as it feeds upon 
 the insects and plants,—in fact, entirely by suction ; those caught in rapid 
 rivers and sandy bottoms, and where they have the advantage of salt and 
 fresh water, are the best. 
 
 237. ECONOMICAL MODE OF COOKING STUR¬ 
 GEON.—Take a piece of sturgeon about two pounds 
 weight, and on sending a piece of meat to the baker’s to 
 be baked on a stand in a dish, put the sturgeon under it, 
 with a little -water, salt, pepper, &c., and a little chopped 
 eschalot may be used; you can also put potatoes round 
 it. Peas, if in season, are a good accompaniment, with 
 melted butter. 
 
 238. TO ROAST STURGEON.—Take the tail part, 
 skin and bone it; fill the part where the bone comes from 
 with some stuffing, as for a fillet of veal; put butter and 
 paper round it, and tie it up like a fillet of veal; roast, 
 and serve it with melted butter and gravy. 
 
 They may be cooked precisely as veal, in large or small pieces, as for frican- 
 deau, papillote, &c., and even salted in imitation of tunny. 
 
FISH. 
 
 135 
 
 Gurnard, Gurnet, or Noud, derives its name from the grunting noise it 
 makes ; the Romans called it cuculus, from the cuckoo, from the similarity of 
 their notes. There are several sorts, called the gray, red, streaked, yellow, 
 and sapphirine. All of them are fine eating, yet perhaps the sapphirine is the 
 best, being distinguished from the rest (which are called pipers) by its colour 
 and the long protrusion of the upper jaw; the side or pectoral fins are on the 
 outside green, and a beautiful purple underneath ; its sides are red, belly white 
 and back green, which, when seen in a clear sea, has a most beautiful ap¬ 
 pearance. Its freshness is distinguished like other fish. It is cooked as 
 follows : 
 
 239. GURNETS are best stuffed and baked. Stuff 
 tlicm as directed for haddocks, turn them round in the 
 same manner, lay slices of bacon over, cut very thin, and 
 bake half an hour or more (according to their size) in a 
 hot oven; when done, dress upon a dish without a napkin, 
 and have ready the following sauce :—put a tablespoonful 
 of chopped onions in a stewpan, with one of vinegar, place 
 over the fire a couple of minutes, add half a pint of melted 
 butter, two tablespoonfuls of Harvey sauce, one of catsup, 
 and two of water, reduce until rather thick, season with a 
 little pepper, cut the fillets of a good anchovy, if handy, 
 into strips, put in the sauce, which pour round the fish, and 
 serve. 
 
 240. BOILED GURNET.—You may boil it either 
 with or without the stuffing, in very salt water; it will re¬ 
 quire rather more than half an hour; serve with anchovy 
 sauce separate. The remains are very good to re-warm. 
 
 Basse .—This, by many, is called the sea-wolf, but it is quite a different 
 fish; it is a species of perch, and is like a trout in shape, except that its 
 head is larger. Its flavour is finest just previous to spawning; it is never 
 caught in rivers, but in bays at the mouth of fresh-water streams, and, when 
 in season, is exceedingly good and very wholesome ; it should be cooked in 
 every way like salmon. 
 
 Tunny .—I have often been of opinion, and am still doubtful, if this fish ia 
 not the scomber of the Romans, from which the garum was made, this fish 
 
136 
 
 FISH. 
 
 being at the present day an article of great consumption on the coast of the 
 Mediterranean, which sea it enters by the Straits in the month of June. It 
 grows to an immense size, sometimes as long as nine feet, and broad in pro¬ 
 portion. They come off the coast of Cornwall with the first herrings and 
 pilchards in summer, and they follow the sardines into the Mediterranean ; 
 they also appear on the west coast of Ireland, but they are rarely caught, as 
 the fishermen are ignorant of the method of doing so ; if followed, it would 
 be a more valuable fishery than the herrings or pilchards. They are exceed¬ 
 ingly good salted, or pickled like salmon, which it resembles in flavour when 
 thus prepared; when raw, its flesh is very red, but turns pale in boiling. 
 The best way to cook it when fresh is to cut it in slices, and proceed as with 
 salmon. 
 
 Macicerel. —This is generally recognised as the scomber of the Romans, by 
 whom it was much esteemed; at the present day it is not held in that high 
 estimation it was some years since: the great supply which is now re¬ 
 ceived from different parts of the coast at all seasons of the year may have 
 a tendency to cause this. It is a fish which requires to be eaten very fresh, 
 and soon becomes tainted; it is for this reason that it is the only fish-cry 
 allowed by law in the city of London on a Sunday: “ Mackerel! fresh 
 mackerel! who’ll buy my fresh mackerel ?” is often heard. The soft roe of 
 this fish is highly esteemed, and I have no doubt but that it was equally so 
 with the Romans, and I believe it was an ingredient of the garum. (See page 
 163.) When fresh, their skin is of a sea-green colour, and very beautiful; 
 fine bright golden eyes, and gills very red ; they should be plump, but not 
 too large ; they should be cleaned by cutting their gills, so that, when pulled, 
 the interior of the fish will come with them; wipe them well, cut off the 
 fins, and trim the tail. 
 
 241. MACKEREL are generally served plain boiled; 
 put them in a kettle containing enough boiling water 
 according to the number, well salted, let simmer nearly 
 half an hour, take them up, drain, and dish them upon a 
 napkin; serve melted butter in a boat, with which you 
 have mixed a tablespoonful of chopped fennel, boiling it 
 a few minutes. 
 
 242. MACKEREL A LA MAITRE-D’HOTEL.— 
 Make an incision, down the back of a mackerel, close to 
 
FISH. 
 
 137 
 
 the bone, season it with a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, 
 if approved of, butter the skin well, and place the fish 
 upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, for about twenty 
 minutes, turning it over when half done; when done, have 
 ready two ounces of maitre-d’hotel butter (No. 306), half 
 of which put in the incision at the back, previously putting 
 the mackerel upon a hot dish without a napkin; spread 
 the other half over; place it in the oven a few minutes, 
 and serve very hot. 
 
 243. MACKEREL AU BEURRE NOIR*—Split the 
 
 mackerel open at the back, making it quite flat, season 
 
 with a little pepper and salt, and butter it all over, lay it 
 
 upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, turning it when half 
 
 done, for about a quarter of an hour, when place it upon 
 
 a dish without a napkin, then put six ounces of fresh 
 
 butter in a stewpan, which place over a sharp fire until 
 
 the butter becomes black, but not burnt, when throw in 
 
 about fifty leaves of picked parsley, which fry crisp, and 
 
 pour over the fish; put three tablespoonfuls of common 
 
 vinegar into the stewpan, which boil half a minute, season 
 
 with pepper and salt, pour this also over the fish, which 
 
 put into the oven five minutes, and serve very hot. 
 
 * 
 
 244. TO STEW MACKEREL, NEW WAY.—Take 
 off the heads, the fins, and tails, and, having opened the 
 fish, and taken out all the hard roes, dry them with a 
 cloth, and dredge them lightly with flour; place three or 
 four of them in a stewpan, with a lump of butter the size 
 of a walnut, to each fish; put into a small basin a teacup¬ 
 ful of water, a tablespoonful of finely-chopped onions, the 
 same of chopped parsley, a blade or two of mace, a little 
 pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of anchovy essence, and 
 a small teacupful of ale or porter (if not bitter). Add a 
 tablespoonful of grated bread-crust, not burnt, but a light 
 
138 
 
 FISH. 
 
 brown ; pour all these ingredients over the fish, and let 
 them stew gently for twenty minutes; have ready the yolks 
 of three eggs, well beaten, and when the fish is sufficiently 
 done, take some of the gravy and mix gradually with the 
 eggs, and, pouring them on the fish, shake the stewpan a 
 little over the fire to thicken the whole, but not to curdle 
 the eggs; the soft roes added are an improvement: have 
 ready more grated crust, and having placed the fish whole 
 in the dish, shake a little of the grated crust over the whole, 
 so as to make it of a handsome brown. The receipt requires 
 to be carefully followed. If the gravy is too thick, more 
 water may be added; also a glass of sherry, if liked. 
 
 Scad, or Horse Mackerel, should be chosen and treated in every respect like 
 the former, and will keep longer, and by some are preferred to the common 
 mackerel. Garfish, Hornfish, and Tobacco-pipe Fish may be prepared and 
 cooked like an eel. Skipper, or Saury Pike, must be cooked like the mackerel, 
 which it resembles in flavour. Take care not to confound this fish with the 
 saurus or conger, garfish or girrock, and called by the Italians the imperial 
 eel, which must be cooked like an eel. 
 
 Whitings, when fresh, are a most delicate fish, their remarkable lightness 
 rendering it easy of digestion to the weakest stomach. This fish is in season 
 all the year on different parts of the coast, and it is caught with spillard lines, 
 instead of, as it ought to be, in nets. The best size, in point of flavour, are 
 those about nine inches long ; I have known them twenty-four inches ; there 
 is a law to prevent them being taken less than six inches in length. Their 
 goodness is known by the firmness of the flesh and brightness of the eyes and 
 skin. The general way of preparing them is as follows : 
 
 245. FRIED WHITING.—The whiting is generally 
 skinned, and the tail turned round and fixed into the 
 mouth; dip it first into flour, then egg over and dip it into 
 bread-crumbs, fry as directed for the sole; for whiting aux 
 fines herbes, proceed as directed for sole aux fines herbes. 
 I prefer the whiting fried with their skins on, merely dipping 
 them in flour 
 
FISH. 
 
 130 
 
 246. WHITING- AU G RAT IN.—Put a good spoonful 
 of chopped onions upon a strong earthen dish, with a glass 
 of wine, season the whiting with a little pepper and salt, 
 put it in the dish, sprinkle some chopped parsley and 
 chopped mushrooms over, and pour over half a pint of 
 anchovy sauce, over which sprinkle some brown bread¬ 
 crumbs, grated from the crust of bread, place it in a warm 
 oven half an hour; it requires to be nicely browned; serve 
 upon the dish you have cooked it in. 
 
 Whiting Pollock, or Glassen. —This is a very line fish, when in season, re¬ 
 sembling in flavour the rock cod, feeding like that, amongst rocks ; the best 
 are those about eight to ten pounds, they should be chosen, prepared, and 
 cooked like cod. 
 
 Black Pollock, Paw Pollock, or Coal Fish. —In shape like the former, but 
 different in colour, as its name implies; it should be prepared the same as 
 the former. % 
 
 Pollard. —These are the young of the former, and may be caught in great 
 abundance with a crooked pin and a small piece of any kind of fish; they 
 are from five to eight inches in length ; they should be cooked like whiting ; 
 the flavour is stronger. 
 
 Whiting Pout. —This fish is caught on many parts of the coast, but is little 
 esteemed, yet, in my opinion, is quite equal to the red mullet; it rarely ex¬ 
 ceeds twelve inches in length, but is of great depth in the body ; it is best 
 when taken in rocky places, and should be eaten very fresh; it may be 
 dressed in every way like whiting. 
 
 Red Mullet, or Sur Mullet, is an inhabitant of the Mediterranean more than 
 of the coasts of Great Britain, although it is caught at times in all parts. 
 It is still held in the same high estimation as in the times of Juvenal and 
 Horace,* and is justly called the woodcock of the sea ; they are in season, like 
 other fish, when the roe is just forming. There is a species of this fish of a 
 reddish brown, sometimes called the striped mullet; the flesh is firmer, but 
 
 * "When I say held, I do not mean we pay 30 high a price; for Apius Celer 
 paid 6000 sesterces (equal to £46 17s. 6c?. of our money) for one; and, in 
 the time of Tiberius, three were sold for 30,000 sesterces, or £234 7s. 6c?. 
 
140 
 
 FISH. 
 
 the flavour is nearly the same ; choose them as red as possible, rather short, 
 firm to the touch, and with transparent golden eyes. In cleaning, merely 
 scrape them lightly, pull out the gills, and part of the inside will come with 
 them, which is all that is required. 
 
 Great surprise has been expressed at the number and cheapness of red 
 mullet in the London market this season (1849); it arises from a circum¬ 
 stance which, though trivial in itself, show's the necessity that exists for 
 some means of giving instruction to fishermen, so as to enable them to 
 prosecute their avocations with more facility and certainty ; in no class of 
 industry are the people that are employed in it so ignorant as in this, and it 
 is the duty of a paternal government to see that the resources of the country 
 are properly developed. I would have a person appointed to see that the 
 food of our public institutions is not wasted in cookery (as I suggested in my 
 former letter), and be capable of affording instruction by lectures or otherwise 
 to the different classes who provide that food. The circumstance to which I 
 allude originated with a well-known gentleman in the West of England, who 
 noticing that the mackerel and red mullet arrived on the coast together, and 
 that there was a large fishery of the former and none'of the latter, endeavoured 
 to find out the reason : he ascertained that the red mullet obtained its food 
 from the mackerel, and, consequently, they swam lower; he therefore directed 
 the fishermen to have a deeper seine net, by which means they will be enabled 
 to take both kinds at the same time. As science and chemistry are now 
 lending their aid to assist the different branches of our manufacture, I cannot 
 see the reason why they should not do so in so important an article as that 
 of food. 
 
 247. HED MULLETS.—Procure two red mullets, 
 which place upon a strong dish, not too large, sprinkle a 
 little chopped onions, parsley, a little pepper and salt, and 
 a little salad-oil over, and put them into a warm oven for 
 half an hour; then put half a tablespoonful of chopped 
 onions in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salad-oil, stir 
 over a moderate fire until getting rather yellowish, then 
 add a tablespoonful of sherry, half a pint of white sauce or 
 melted butter, with a little chopped parsley; reduce over 
 a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until becoming rather thick; 
 
FISH. 
 
 14 ! 
 
 when the mullets are done, a little cream may be added, 
 with a little lemon juice; sauce over and serve 
 
 248. RED MULLET EN PAPILLOTE.—Cut a shee'v 
 of foolscap paper in the form of a heart, lay it on the table 
 and oil it, put the mullet on one side, season with salt, 
 pepper, and chopped eschalot, fold the paper over and 
 plait both edges together, and broil on a slow tire for half 
 an hour, turning carefully now and then; serve without a 
 napkin; they are excellent done thus, without sauce, but, 
 if any is required, use melted butter, cream Hollandaise, 
 anchovy, or Italian sauce. 
 
 249. RED MULLETS SAUTE IN RUTTER.-Put 
 two ounces of butter in a pan; when melted, put in one or 
 two small mullets, and season with a teaspoonful of salt, 
 half ditto of pepper, and the juice of half a lemon; set it on 
 a slow fire and turn carefully; when done, dish and serve 
 plain, or with any of the sauces named in the former receipt. 
 
 250. RED MULLETS, FILLETED, LIVER 
 SAUCE.—Take five very fresh red mullets, scale them, 
 cut off their heads, open them, take out the inside, keep 
 the liver, and throw away the remainder; cut off the fins, 
 and remove the bone, and cut them down the back, so 
 that each one makes two fillets; egg and bread-crumb 
 them, having some pepper and salt in the crumbs; put a 
 teacupful of oil into a saute-pan, and, when hot, saute 
 the fdlets, and serve. The sauce to be made as follows :— 
 Chop up one small onion, put it into the corner of a 
 napkin, hold it under a tap of cold water, and squeeze it 
 well; put it into a stewpan with one ounce of butter, and 
 place on the fire until brown, then add one teacupful of 
 water, in which has been mixed one teaspoonful only of 
 flour; when boiling, add the livers, which have previously 
 
142 
 
 FISH. 
 
 been beaten up in a cup with pepper and salt, and some 
 more butter, if approved of. Just previous to serving, add 
 a wineglassful of red wine, and the juice of half a small 
 lemon. Serve separate. 
 
 251. RED MULLETS, FILLETED, FRIED.— 
 Proceed the same as in the last, then have some batter 
 prepared, as No. 877, dip them into it, and fry in plenty 
 of fat; serve with any sauce you like. 
 
 Gray Mullet .—Although bearing the same name, is a totally different 
 species from the former, and is not of that fine flavour, yet it is by no 
 means a bad fish when in season ; but it has got into bad repute, no doubt 
 from being taken at those times when it is the easiest, and then it is out of 
 season; it should be taken in the open sea, in August, September, and Oc¬ 
 tober, and not in rivers, where they ascend as far as the water is at all 
 orackish. They should be firm, and eyes bright, like other fish. They may 
 be cooked in every way like mackerel. 
 
 Herrings, when in season, that is, when the roe is just forming, are most 
 excellent and wholesome fish, when eaten fresh : I have this day (the 25th 
 of April) partaken of some, caught in twenty-four fathom water, about twelve 
 miles oft’ the coast of Folkestone, in which one could just distinguish the 
 formation of the roe. The richness of the fish at this period is extraordinary, 
 and renders it worthy the table of the greatest epicure ; yet, if you were to 
 tell a fisherman on the coast to go and cast his nets at this season of the year 
 in twenty-four fathoms, he would take you to be either mad or a fool; but 
 our intelligent neighbours on the opposite coast and in the port of Boulogne 
 know better, and go out and take them, and sell them for four sous each as 
 bait for the conger.* Their age and size depend upon the coast where 
 caught; but as they are a fish which never take bait, and, consequently, 
 only caught with nets, and those of a certain mesh, we therefore obtain them 
 generally of one size, but I have seen them as small as six inches, and as long 
 as fourteen inches, and in proportion in width and depth, and weighing four 
 pounds : when as large as this, they are generally called the queen or king 
 
 * AVe are glad to find that this remark has induced the fishermen on the 
 south coast of England to try their luck; and this day, April 30, 1850, for 
 the first time in the annals of Billingsgate, herrings have been sold. 
 
FISH. 
 
 143 
 
 herring, but it is only by accident they are caught. Their freshness is dis¬ 
 tinguished, like other fish, by their gills and brightness. 
 
 As this fish is now of so great importance as an article of food, I shall refer 
 more at length to it in my letters on pickling and preserving, and give you a 
 description of my new plan of curing and smoking, and also what I consider 
 its medicinal and other properties. 
 
 252. HERRINGS BOILED.—Gently boil six herrings 
 about twenty minutes in two quarts of water, in which 
 you are to introduce a quarter of a pound of salt; then 
 have ready the following sauce :—put half a gill of cream 
 upon the fire in a stewpan; when it boils, add eight 
 spoonfuls of melted butter, an ounce of fresh butter, a 
 little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; dress the 
 fish upon a dish without a napkin, sauce over, and serve. 
 
 253. HERRINGS BROILED, SAUCE DIJON.— 
 The delicacy of these fish prevents their being dressed in 
 any other way than boiled or broiled; they certainly can 
 be bread-crumbed and fried, but scarcely any person w r ould 
 like them; I prefer them dressed in the following way:— 
 wipe them well with a cloth, and cut three incisions slant¬ 
 wise upon each side, dip them in flour, and broil slowly 
 over a moderate fire; when done, sprinkle a little salt over, 
 dress them upon a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve 
 the following sauce in a boat:—put eight tablespoonfuls of 
 melted butter in a stewpan, with two of French mustard,* 
 or one of English, an ounce of fresh butter, and a little 
 pepper and salt; when upon the point of boiling, serve. 
 
 254. HERRINGS BAKED BOULOGNE WAY.— 
 Take six very fresh herrings, scale them well with a knife, 
 open the belly about one inch, near the gills, remove the 
 gills and the guts, with the exception of the crown or 
 silver gut, which leave in; pull them towards the head, 
 so as not to tear the belly, wipe them with a cloth, but by 
 
 * Dijon is the town in France so celebrated for its mustard. 
 
144 
 
 FISH. 
 
 no means wash them. Cut three slight incisions in the 
 side of each, and lay them in a baking-dish. Scrape half 
 a clove of garlic, chop up two tablespoonfuls of parsley, 
 or half parsley and half tarragon ; mix it well with the 
 garlic, so that it imbibes it all, then add to it two table¬ 
 spoonfuls of mustard—French, if you have it—and spread 
 it over the herrings; place about one ounce of butter in 
 the baking-dish, and one wineglassful of red wine, place 
 in a hot oven for twenty minutes, turn over when half 
 done, then add bread-crumbs, if preferred, “ Gratine ,” or 
 if not, when done, pour out the liquid that is in the dish 
 into a saucepan, add a little melted butter, boil up, and 
 serve separate. 
 
 Pilchards .—If anything were required as a proof to upset the absurd notion 
 of the migration of the herring from the Northern Ocean, this fish would do 
 so ; but this is a subject we will leave for another occasion. This is a very 
 fine fish when taken, as it ought only to be, when the roe is just forming; 
 they are principally found on the Cornish and the south-western coast of 
 Ireland. They should be cooked and cured in the same way as herrings. 
 
 Anchovies and Sardines are now found on the coast in the same places as 
 the pilchard, of which they are a species; we never receive them fresh in the 
 London market, but we cannot say what another year’s enterprise, energy, 
 and railroads may do. They should be cooked like herrings. 
 
 Capeling is a fish about the length of a pilchard, in form like the ling ; 
 they are only to be found on the banks of Newfoundland, where they are 
 caught as plentifully as the herring on our shores. They are salted and 
 dried, and imported into this country. To cook them, they should be broiled 
 as dry as possible. 
 
 Sprats .—These are in season all the year on various parts of the coast; they 
 swim in large shoals or sculls, and may be caught in baskets; large quantities 
 are brought to the London market, where they are sold from 2s. to 4s. per 
 bushel; they are in season there after the 9th of November ; they should be 
 cooked very fresh, which is easily known by the eyes being bright and 
 sparkling; a tin skewer should be run through the gills of about twenty, 
 
FISH. 
 
 145 
 
 toasted before the fire, and served very hot. The manner of curing them 
 according to my new plan, I will give you in a future letter. 
 
 SmdtS are now su PP lied in London in much greater abundance than for¬ 
 merly, as large numbers are brought from Holland, but they are not con¬ 
 sidered so fine as those of our own coast. London formerly used to be sup¬ 
 plied from the Medway at .Rochester, where they were considered the best 
 but which, I think, arose from the facility which the old bridge afforded in 
 catching them, as very few are now taken there ; a custom exists for the cor¬ 
 poration of Rochester to present the Lord Mayor of London, on his visit to 
 that town, on occasion of the triennial visitation to Yanlet Creek, with a dish 
 of smelts on the two last occasions they were hardly to be procured. They 
 are taken in seine nets, either by hauling on shore, or in boats. They are not 
 much known on parts of the coast, although they exist in great abundance, 
 and are not considered worth taking; they were never known in the Dublin 
 market until October, 1848, when they were received from an enterprising 
 Englishman on the west coast of Ireland. Many have confounded them with 
 the salmon-fry or smelt of one year old, whereas the smelt has roe and the 
 fry none ; it ascends rivers to deposit its spawn in November, December, and 
 January, and the rest of the year they are considered in season, but they vary 
 like the salmon, according to the river. This fish, when fresh, has a beautiful 
 smell of violets or cucumbers, but the Germans call it stinck fish—I know 
 not why; they lose this perfume in about twelve hours after being taken ; 
 they should be very stiff and firm, bright eyes, and transparent skin. This 
 fish is very delicate, and requires very great attention in cleaning, merely 
 pulling out the gills, the inside will come with them ; they should be wiped 
 lightly. When split and dried, they are called sparlings. There is a smelt 
 found in some rivers, and also on part of the coast which is sometimes 
 mistaken for the above, but the flavour differs as much as possible ; it is the 
 Atherine, or Sea Smelt and Sand Smelt; they are likewise caught in large 
 quantities in the harbour of Boulogne and forwarded to Paris.’* 
 
 255. TO FRY SMELTS.—Dry them slightly in a cloth, 
 and dip them in flour; then have half an ounce of butter or 
 
 * B y the a( lvice of the author, these have been 
 an article of large consumption in Paris, and 
 Dingle, in Ireland, and forwarded to Dublin. 
 
 dried, and have now become 
 they are also prepared at 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 FISH. 
 
 clear fat melted in a basin, into which break the yolk of 
 two eggs, with which rub the smelts over with a brush, dip 
 them in bread-crumbs, fry in very hot lard, dress them on 
 a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with shrimp 
 sauce in a boat. 
 
 White Bait .—This is a fish which belongs especially to London; although 
 it is obtainable in other rivers in Great Britain and the Continent; yet it is 
 not sought for ; great difference of opinion exists amongst naturalists as to 
 what fish this is the young of; in my humble opinion, I think it is a species 
 •distinct of itself, having a life of short duration. It is caught only in 
 brackish water, floating up and down the river, according to the tide,—in 
 very dry summers as high up as Greenwich, and in very wet as low as 
 Gravesend. They spawn in winter, and make their appearance, about one 
 inch in length, early in March. They should be cooked as follows : 
 
 256. WHITE BAIT.—Put them in a cloth, which shake 
 gently so as to dry them a little ; then place them in some 
 very fine bread-crumbs and flour mixed; toss them lightly 
 with the hands, on a dish, to detach them from each other, 
 take them out immediately, put them in a wire basket, 
 and fry them in hot lard; one minute will cook them; 
 turn them out on a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over, and 
 serve very hot. Should you not have a wire basket, 
 sprinkle your white bait into the pan, and as soon as they 
 rise take them out with a slice. 
 
 Turtle .-—It is unnecessary to state that, for many years past, turtle has 
 been esteemed the greatest luxury which has been placed upon our tables. It 
 ■was introduced into this country in the early part of the last century, and 
 then only at the tables of the large West Indian proprietors, from whom it 
 progressed to those of the city companies. During the time of the South Sea 
 bubble, when the female aristocracy partook of the prevalent feature, and 
 flocked into the courts and alleys surrounding the Exchange, turtle-soup was 
 in the height of fashion, the cost being one guinea per plate. 
 
 The turtle used in cooking is that known by the name of green turtle; and 
 the finest are found in the small islands and keys in the Bahamas, which 
 
FISH. 
 
 147 
 
 they frequent for the purpose of laying their eggs : they are not so large as 
 those found on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, though considered much more 
 delicate. They derive their name from the tinge of green which the flesh 
 possesses, caused by its feeding upon submarine plants. Although having 
 extremely powerful jaws, it is a very harmless fish, and differs from others 
 of its species, which feed upon smaller kinds. The trunk turtle, the logger- 
 head, and the hawk’s bill are unfit for food. The turtle of the Ascension 
 Island differs in some measure from either of them, being between the green 
 turtle and the trunk turtle ; its flesh, when old and large, is very rank. 
 
 A turtle of about 80 pounds weight is the best eating. There was a species 
 of turtle known to the Homans, but which was considered poisonous, and is, 
 I suppose, that which is now found in the Mediterranean, and sometimes on 
 our coast; but as you are likely only to receive the fine green turtle as a 
 present or purchase, I would advise you to send and have it cooked at a house 
 where they are accustomed to do it. I will, therefore, give you no receipts 
 for cooking it; but should you be curious to know how it is done, you must 
 look in “ Soyer’s Regenerator.” 
 
 Twrbot we consider the finest of flat-fish; and so it was, no doubt, con¬ 
 sidered by the Romans : hence the proverb, “ Nihil ad rhombum,” although 
 Linnaeus, from his classification, would make us believe it was the brill or 
 brett, but I do not think so meanly of the epicures of those days as to imagine 
 it. Its flavour depends greatly upon the place where taken, resulting from, 
 its food, which is principally young crabs and lobsters ; therefore it is not 
 surprising that lobster sauce accompanies it when cooked. I prefer them of 
 a middling size, not too large, but thick, and if bled when caught, so much 
 the better. Should you be at the sea-side, and buy one rather cheap because 
 it has red spots on the belly, remove them by rubbing salt and lemon on the 
 spot. In my opinion they are better and more digestible, and of finer 
 flavour, forty-eight hours after being killed, than when fresh. 
 
 257. TURBOT.—To cook it, cut an incision in the 
 back, rub it well with a good handful of salt, and then 
 with the juice of a lemon; set it in a turbot kettle, well 
 covered with cold water, in which you have put a good 
 handful of salt; place it over the fire, and as soon as 
 boiling, put it at the side (where it must not be allowed 
 to more than simmer very slowly, or the fish would have 
 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 FISH. 
 
 a very unsightly appearance). A turbot of ten pounds 
 weight will take about an hour to cook after it has begun 
 to boil (but, to be certain, ascertain whether the flesh will 
 leave the bone easily); then take it out of the water, let it 
 remain a minute upon the drainer, and serve upon a 
 napkin, with a few sprigs of fresh parsley round, and 
 lobster sauce, or shrimp sauce, in a boat. 
 
 258. TURBOT, THE NEW FRENCH FASHION. 
 —Boil your turbot as in the last, but dress it upon a dish 
 without a napkin, sauce over with a Hollandaise sauce, 
 or any other way, with a thick caper sauce (having made 
 a border of small new potatoes round it), sprinkle a few 
 capers over the fish and serve. 
 
 259. TURBOT A LA CREME is made from the re¬ 
 mains of a turbot left from a previous dinner: pick all the 
 flesh from the bones, which warm in salt and water, and 
 have ready the following sauce: put one ounce of flour 
 into a stewpan, to which add by degrees a quart of milk, 
 mixing it very smoothly; then add two peeled eschalots, 
 a bouquet of parsley, a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme tied 
 together; add a little grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful of salt 
 and a quarter ditto of pepper; place it over the fire, stirring 
 until it forms a thickish sauce; then take it from the fire, 
 stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and pass it 
 through a tammy; lay a little of it upon the bottom of a 
 convenient-sized dish, then a layer of the fish, season 
 lightly with a little white pepper and salt, then another 
 layer of sauce, proceeding thus until the fish is all used, 
 finishing with sauce; sprinkle a few bread-crumbs over, 
 and put it into a warm oven half an hour; brown with the 
 salamander, and serve upon the dish it is baked on. Any 
 remains of boiled fish may be dressed the same way. 
 
FISH. 
 
 149 
 
 Dory, or John Dory .—The name of this fish is derived from the French 
 jcmne dore (yellow gilded). It also rivals the haddock with the superstitious 
 in some countries, as being the fish from whose mouth St. Peter took the 
 tribute money; but if we are to credit the fact, then the origin of the marks 
 is of an earlier date than the haddock ; for some of the fathers of the church 
 assert that it was St. Christopher, who, wading through an arm of the sea, 
 caught one, en passant, and left the impression of his fingers as an eternal, 
 memorial of the fact. I cannot find that it was held in high estimation 
 amongst the Romans ; indeed, its forbidding appearance is against it. This 
 is the fish of which so many anecdotes are related of the celebrated comedian 
 Quin, who was, par excellence, the gourmet and epicure of the last century. 
 This fish requires to be eaten fresh, and should never be smaller than one 
 foot in length. They are now held in high estimation. 
 
 260. JOHN DORIES, BOULOGNE FASHION.— 
 John Dories, though not very handsome, are very delicate 
 eating; choose them from four to six pounds in weight, 
 the thicker the better, and boil as directed for turbot; one 
 of the above size would require about three quarters of an 
 hour; if any remain, dress like turbot, or with caper 
 sauce, &c. 
 
 Sole, Black Sole .—This fish is now supplied to the London market in great 
 abundance, principally from the North Sea. Its flavour, like other fish, in a 
 great measure depends upon the ground where it feeds. It lives piincipally 
 on small crabs and shell-fish, and will take bait, as a lug-worm. The colour 
 of its back depends on the colour of the ground where it feeds ; if on a light 
 sandy bottom, it is the white or lemon sole; on a muddy bottom, the black 
 sole. They are caught in trawl nets ’, that is, a net in the shape of a pocket, 
 from sixty to eighty feet long, and open at the mouth, from thirty-two to 
 forty feet by three deep ; this is dragged along the ground by the vessel, and 
 on the ability of the fisherman depends the quality and flavour of the fish j 
 if he sails slow, the fish is likely to avoid or escape from the net; if very fast, 
 the fish are all swept at the end of the net and get smothered ; and thus it 
 is that we sometimes find at our table a sole with the vein which runs down 
 the side of the bone perfectly black, it being full of congealed blood ; this 
 vein sometimes breaks, and discolours the part round which it does so. 
 
150 
 
 FISH. 
 
 This sole, if it should come to table, is certain of being fresh, as it will not 
 keep for any length of time. If properly fished, they are brought up alive, 
 and put into the wells of the vessel, and come as far as the mouth of the 
 river, where they are taken out and killed by throwing them down violently 
 on the deck, and are then sent to market in baskets containing about twenty- 
 five pair each. The small sized soles caught in shallow water on the coast 
 are the best in flavour. Those caught at the Silver Pits, a place aboxxt 150 
 miles off the mouth of the Humber, are larger, but not so good. They are 
 at times caught in great abundance, as much as 1000 pair at one haul, and 
 vary in size ; some are as large as seven pounds each ; the older they are 
 the larger they become, and which may be known by the scales. In a haul 
 (perhaps the first ever made there) in Ballinskellig’s Bay, close in shore, and 
 not far from the residence of the celebrated late Daniel O’Connell, made in 
 October, 1848, sixty soles weighed two hundredweight. Those in roe should 
 only be used for fillets, as their flavour is then insipid. Their freshness may 
 be distinguished by their colour as well as their smell, and the middle-sized 
 are preferable. Should they be caught in great abundance, they may be 
 skinned, cleaned, and dried. 
 
 261. SOLES, FRIED.—Have about four pounds of 
 lard or clean fat in a small fish-kettle, which place over a 
 moderate fire, cut off the fins of the sole, and dip it into 
 flour, shake part of the flour off, have an egg well beaten 
 upon a plate, with which brush the fish all over, and cover 
 it with fine bread-crumbs j ascertain if the lard is hot, by- 
 throwing in a few bread-crumbs; it will hiss if sufficiently 
 not, put in the fish, which will require nearly ten minutes 
 cooking, and ought to be perfectly crisp, drain it on a cloth, 
 dish upon a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve shrimp 
 sauce in a boat. 
 
 The above quantity of lard or fat, if carefully used and 
 not burnt, would do for several occasions, by straining it 
 off each time after using. All kinds of fish, such as eels, 
 smelts, whitings, flounders, perch, gudgeons, &c. are fried 
 precisely in the same manner. Regulate the time according 
 to the size of your fish. 
 
FISH. 
 
 151 
 
 262. SOLES, SAUTE IN OIL.—Trim the fish well, 
 dip it into a couple of eggs, well beaten, put six table¬ 
 spoonfuls of salad-oil in a saute-pan, place it over the fire, 
 and when quite hot put in your sole, let it remain five 
 minutes, turn over, and saute upon the other side; ten or 
 twelve minutes w 7 ill cook it, according to the size; serve 
 upon a napkin without sauce; they aie excellent cold. 
 
 263. SOLE A LA MEUNIERE.—Cut the fins off a 
 sole, and make four incisions across it upon each side with 
 a knife, then rub half a tablespoonful of salt and chopped 
 onions well into it, dip in flour, and broil it over a slow 
 fire: also have ready two ounces of fresh butter, mixed 
 with the juice of a lemon, and a little cayenne, which rub 
 over the sole, previously laid in a hot dish, without a 
 napkin, turn the fish over once or twice, put it in the oven 
 a minute, and serve very hot. 
 
 263* SOLE AU GRATIN.*—Cut the fins off a fine 
 fresh sole, make an incision in the back, then butter a 
 saute-pan, and put one teaspoonful of chopped onions m 
 it with a glass of white wine, then lay in the sole, cover 
 it with six spoonfuls of brown sauce, and sprinkle some 
 bread-crumbs over it, with a few small pieces of butter; 
 then place it in a moderate oven twenty minutes or 
 half an hour, (try when done,) take it out of the saute- 
 pan, and dish without a napkin; then put four spoonfuls 
 of stock in the saute-pan, boil it five minutes, keeping it 
 stirred, then add the juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful 
 of chopped mushrooms, if handy, one of chopped parsley, 
 one of essence of anchovies, and a little sugar and cayenne 
 
 * In France they have silver dishes on purpose for those dishes, in which 
 they are dressed and served to table ; the gratin adhering to the bottom ot 
 the dish is a great improvement. 
 
152 
 
 FISH. 
 
 pepper; pour the sauce round the fish, place it again in 
 the oven for a quarter of an hour, pass the salamander 
 over it, and serve very hot. 
 
 264. SOLES AUX FINES HERBES.—Put a spoon¬ 
 ful of chopped eschalots into a saute-pan, with a glass of 
 sherry and an ounce of butter, place the sole in, pour 
 nearly half a pint of melted butter over it, or four spoon¬ 
 fuls of brown gravy or water, upon which sprinkle some 
 chopped parsley, place it in a moderate oven for half an 
 hour, take the sole out of the pan, dress upon a dish with¬ 
 out a napkin, reduce the sauce that is in the pan over a 
 sharp fire, add a little Harvey sauce and essence of an¬ 
 chovy, pour over the sole, and serve. 
 
 Soles may also be plain boiled, using the same precau¬ 
 tions as directed for turbot, and serve without a napkin, 
 with a cream sauce poured over; or it may be served upon 
 a napkin garnished with parsley, and a little shrimp sauce, 
 or plain melted butter, in a boat. 
 
 Brill or Brett, by many confounded with the turbot. In some places it is 
 called the pearl turbot; it is longer, and not so round as the turbot, and not 
 so firm when cooked, nor do they attain the size. They should be eaten very 
 fresh. 
 
 265. BRILLS are cooked in the same manner as tur¬ 
 bots, but, being smaller, do not require so long boiling. 
 But, in boiling any description of fish, never take it up 
 until the flesh will leave the bone with facility, which try 
 by placing the point of a knife between the flesh and the 
 bone; if done, the knife will part them easily. 
 
 Halibut .—This fish, in this country, is principally consumed by the Jews, 
 who cook it beautifully in oil; it is rather coarse, but very surfeiting. It is 
 best very fresh, and should be very thick and not in spawn. They may be 
 either boiled, baked, fried, or sauteed in oil, in which case the pieces cut 
 across should not be thicker than one inch. 
 
FISH. 
 
 153 
 
 Plaice are not considered mucli of; they are supplied in great abundance 
 in the month of February to the London maiket. They may be cooked like 
 soles. 
 
 Flounder .—To appreciate this fish it should never be eaten in London, 
 they ought to be placed almost alive in the frying-pan ; at any rate, five 
 minutes ought not to elapse from the time they are swimming in water till 
 they are swimming in fat, and five minutes more before they are consumed 
 There is a difference of opinion with epicures upon which are the best, those 
 caught in fresh or in brackish water; for my part I prefer the latter, or those 
 taken with the white bait. 
 
 266. FLOUNDERS, WATER SOUCHET.—Procure 
 four or six Thames flounders, trim and cut in halves; put 
 half a pint of water in a saute-pan, with a little scraped 
 horseradish, a little pepper, salt, sugar, and forty sprigs 
 of fresh parsley; place over the fire, boil a minute, then 
 add the flounders, stew ten minutes, take them out and 
 place in a dish without a napkin, reduce the liquor they 
 were stewed in a little, pour over and serve. Half pint 
 white broth and half water, I much prefer for any kind of 
 souchet, when maigre is not required. 
 
 To fry flounders, trim them, and proceed precisely as 
 directed for fried soles; three minutes are sufficient. 
 
 Slcate, also called Maid, Ray, is not appreciated equal to what it ought to 
 be ; we generally have only the fin part, which is cut off, and put into fresh 
 water, where it curls up. It is a very invigorating fish, and I think deserves 
 the attention of the medical profession. It is best cooked as follows : 
 
 267. SKATE.—Procure two or three slices, tie them 
 with string to keep the shape in boiling, put them into a 
 kettle of boiling water, in which you have put a good 
 handful of salt; boil gently about twenty minutes, (have 
 ready also a piece of the liver, which boil with them ;) 
 when done, drain well, and put them upon a dish without 
 a napkin; put three parts of a pint of melted butter in a 
 
154 
 
 FISH. 
 
 stewpan, place it upon the fire, and when quite hot add a 
 ■wine-glassful of capers, sauce over, and serve. 
 
 268. SKATE AU BEURRE NOIR.—Boil a piece of 
 skate as directed in the last; when done, drain it well, 
 put it upon a dish without a napkin, and proceed exactly 
 as directed for mackerel au beurre noir. 
 
 Skate may also be served upon a napkin, with a boat 
 of well-seasoned melted butter, to which you have added 
 a sjjoonful of Harvey sauce and one of anchovy. 
 
 Dabs and Smear Dabs are good from February to June. They should be 
 cooked like Plaice. 
 
 Pike .—This fish spawns in March and April, according to the season. 
 "When in perfection, their colours are very bright, being green, spotted with 
 bright yellow, and the gills are a bright red ; when out of season, the green 
 changes to grey, and the yellow spots assume a pale hue. It may be called 
 the shark of fresh water. Those caught in a river or running stream are far 
 superior to those caught in ponds, which often get too fat, and have a muddy 
 taste. A middling-sized one, weighing about five pounds, would be best ; 
 when fresh, the eyes must be very transparent, the scales bluish, and not dry 
 upon the back, or it would not clean well. The dressing is generally the 
 making of the fish, as regards the approbation bestowed upon it. To clean 
 them, have a sharp-pointed knife, put the point carefully under the scales 
 (without piercing the skin) at the tail of the fish, pass the knife gently up the 
 back to the head, dividing the scales from the skin carefully; you may then 
 take off the whole of the scales in one piece (should this process appear too 
 difficult, they may be scraped off in the ordinary way; it will not look so 
 white, but would eat equally as good); then make two incisions in the belly, 
 a small one close to the bladder, and a larger one above ; pull out the gills 
 one at a time with a strong cloth, and if the interior does not come with 
 them, take it out from the incisions, and wash the fish well; the cutting off 
 the fins is quite a matter of taste : it is usually done. 
 
 269. PIKE.—Clean as directed above, stuff the interior 
 as directed for haddocks, only adding some fillets of an¬ 
 chovies, if handy, and chopped lemon-peel with it; curl 
 
FISH. 
 
 155 
 
 round and put in a baking-dish, spread a little butter all 
 over, put in a moderate oven, when about half done egg 
 over with a paste-brush, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon 
 it; a middling-sized pike will take about an hour, but that 
 according to the size and the heat of the oven; when done, 
 dress upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce round as 
 directed for baked haddock above referred to. 
 
 270. PIKE, SAUCE MATELOTE. —Cook a pike 
 exactly as in the last, dress it upon a dish without a 
 napkin, and sauce with a matelote sauce over, made as 
 directed for salmon sauce matelote. 
 
 This fish may also be served with caper sauce, as directed 
 for the skate; the smaller ones are the best; the remains 
 of a pike placed in the oven the next day, with a cover 
 over it and a little more sauce added, are very nice. 
 
 Carp became naturalized in this country in 1514, since which time the 
 breed has considerably increased ; they might be made of more value if 
 proper attention were paid to them. Choose them of a middling size, with a 
 soft roe, if possible; the scales of a yellowish colour near the belly; the eyes 
 bright; the gills very red, and hard to pull out; should a hard-roed one be 
 preferred, do not choose it too full. In cleaning, take off the scales as in the 
 last; then make a small incision in the belly, close to the bladder; puli out 
 the gills, and the interior will come with them; should any, however, re¬ 
 main, take it out of the incision without breaking the gall or disturbing the 
 roe : lay it in spring water half an hour to disgorge, then dry it with a cloth. 
 The large sea carp, some of which weigh from thirty to fifty pounds, are not 
 worth cooking. 
 
 251. BAKED CARP.—Procure a good-sized carp, stuff 
 it like the pike, then put it into a baking-dish, with two 
 onions, one carrot, one turnip, one head of celery, and a 
 good bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; moisten 
 with two glasses of port wine, half-a-pint of water, salt, 
 pepper, and oil, and put it in a moderate oven about two 
 hours to bake; try if done with a knife, which is the case 
 
156 
 
 FISH. 
 
 if the flesh leaves the bone easily; dress upon a dish 
 without a napkin; then have ready the following sauce : 
 mince a large Spanish onion with two common ones, and 
 put them into a stewpan with three spoonfuls of salad-oil, 
 saute rather a yellow colour, add two glasses of port wine 
 and one spoonful of flour, mix all well together, add a 
 pint of broth (reserved from some soup) or w r ater, with 
 half an ounce of glaze, or half a gill of brown gravy, or a 
 few drops of colouring; boil it up, drain the stock the carp 
 was cooked in from the vegetables, which also add to the 
 sauce; boil w r ell at the corner of the stove, skim, and when 
 rather thick add a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, one of 
 essence of anchovies, and a little cayenne pepper, pour 
 all the liquor drained from the fish out of your dish, sauce 
 over, and serve. 
 
 272. CARP, SAUCE MATELOTE.—Put your carp 
 in a small oval fish-kettle, with wine and vegetables as in 
 the last, to which add also a pint of water and a little salt, 
 with a few cloves and peppercorns; put the lid upon the 
 fish-kettle, and stand it over a moderate fire to stew about 
 an hour, according to the size; when done, drain well, 
 dress upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce over with a 
 matelote sauce, made as directed for salmon sauce matelote, 
 or caper sauce, as for skate; small carp are very good- 
 flavoured ; they should, like a whiting, open in two from 
 the back, then bread-crumbed and fried. 
 
 Trout .—There are several kinds, none of which, it seems, were known to 
 the Romans. This is the salmon of fresh water, and bears a very close 
 resemblance to it in flavour. They grow to a very large size ; I partook of 
 part of one weighing twenty-six pounds, which was caught in the Lake of 
 Kiliarney, in July, 1848. They have different names in various parts of 
 Great Britain, but there is the common trout, the white trout, and the sea 
 trout; the white trout never grows very large, but the sea trout does, and 
 is of a very fine flavour. 
 
FISH 
 
 157 
 
 JRiver Trout, when fresh, have the most beautiful skin imaginable, the 
 golden and sometimes silvery tint of which makes me term it the sister fish 
 of the red (sea) mullet. Should the gills be pink instead of red, and the skin 
 dry (which is frequently the case on the second day), they may still be eat¬ 
 able, but their succulence goes with their beauty. Clean them as directed 
 for salmon. 
 
 273. TROUT A LA TWICKENHAM.—When you 
 have cleaned your trout, put them into a kettle of boiling 
 water, to which you have added a good handful of salt, 
 and a wine-glassful of vinegar; boil gently about twenty 
 minutes, or according to their size, dress upon a napkin, 
 and serve melted butter, into which you have put a table¬ 
 spoonful of chopped gherkins, two sprigs of chopped 
 parsley, salt and pepper, in a boat. 
 
 The remains of trout, salmon, or mackerel, are excellent 
 oickled:—put three onions in slices in a stewpan, with 
 two ounces of butter, one turnip, a bouquet of parsley, 
 thyme, and bay-leaf, pass them five minutes over the fire, 
 add a pint of water and a pint of vinegar, two teaspoon¬ 
 fuls of salt and one of pepper, boil until the onions are 
 tender, then strain it through a sieve over the fish; it will 
 keep some time if required, and then do to pickle more 
 fish by boiling over again. 
 
 274. TROUT A LA BURTON.—Roil the trout as in 
 the last; then put half a pint of melted butter in a stew- 
 pan, with two tablespoonfuls of cream, place it upon the 
 fire, and when upon the point of boiling add a liaison of 
 one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonfnl of cream, 
 (dress the fish upon a dish without a napkin), put tw o 
 ounces of fresh butter, a pinch ot salt, and the juice of ^a 
 lemon into the sauce, shake round over the file, but ao 
 not let it boil; sauce over the fish, sprinkle some chopped 
 parsley, and serve. 
 
158 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Perch were known to the Romans, and those they received from Britain 
 were considered the best. They do not grow to a very large size, four pounds 
 being considered a large one. When fresh, are reddish at the eyes and gills. 
 These fish, having a great objection to part with their scales, must be scraped 
 almost alive, forming the fish into the shape of the letter S, and scraping 
 wfith an oyster-knife; open the belly, take out the interior, pull away the 
 gills, and wash well. When large, they are frequently boiled with the scales 
 on, which are taken off afterwards much easier. 
 
 275. PERCH SAUTEED IN BUTTER.—Clean the 
 fish as explained above, dry well, make an incision upon 
 each side with a knife, put a quarter of a pound of butter 
 in a saute-pan over a slo-w fire, lay in the fish, season 
 with salt, and saute • gently, turning them over when half 
 done; when done, dress upon a napkin, and serve melted 
 butter, or shrimp sauce, in a boat. Small ones should be 
 dressed thus. 
 
 276. PERCH, HAMPTON COURT FASHION.— 
 Cook the fish as above, and have ready the following 
 sauce:—put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, 
 with a little salt and the juice of a lemon; when upon the 
 point of boiling, stir in the yolk of an egg mixed with 
 a tablespoonful of cream; do not let it boil; steep about 
 twenty small sprigs of parsley in boiling water ten 
 minutes, and some small pieces of rind of lemon for one 
 minute, drain, and put them in the sauce, which pour over 
 the fish and serve. 
 
 Perch may also be served plain boiled or stewed as 
 directed for tench, with sauce served separate. 
 
 Tench are considered by modern epicures to be one of the best of all fresh¬ 
 water fish; they should be caught, killed, cleaned, and cooked almost directly; 
 they may be kept alive in a large bucket of water a few days, as also may 
 carp, feeding them with a few crumbs of bread. They are very difficult fish 
 to clean ; the best way is to form them in the shape of the letter S, and in- 
 
FISH. 
 
 159 
 
 stead of scraping them from the tail to the head like other fish, scrape up¬ 
 wards from the belly to the back with an oyster-knife, the scales running 
 that way ; pull out the gills, open the belly, take out the interior, and wash 
 them quite clean. 
 
 277. STEWED TENCH.—Put two onions, a carrot, 
 and turnip, cut in slices into a stewpan, or very small 
 fish-kettle, with a good bouquet of parsley, a few sprigs 
 of thyme, one bay-leaf, six cloves, a blade of mace, a little 
 salt and pepper, and two glasses of sherry; lay your 
 tench over, (it will require four for a dish, and they may 
 be either cooked whole, or each one cut into two or three 
 pieces,) add a pint of water, cover down close, and stew 
 rather gently over a slow fire for about half an hour; take 
 them out, drain upon a cloth, dress upon a dish without 
 a napkin, and pour a sauce over, made as directed for 
 sauce matelote, cream sauce, or Beyrout. 
 
 278. TENCH WITH ANCHOVY BUTTER.—Cook 
 the tench as in the last, but they may be plain boiledpn 
 salt and water; dress upon a dish without a napkin, then 
 put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with one 
 of milk; place it upon the fire, and, when upon the point 
 of boiling, add an ounce of anchovy butter; shake it round 
 over the fire until the butter is melted, when sauce over 
 and serve. 
 
 Gudgeon, the gobio of the Romans. From the praise bestowed by many 
 ancient authors on this fish, they must have obtained them remarkably fine, 
 and I was long doubtful if it could be the same species of fish, until I ate 
 some that had been caught in the river Colne, near Uxbridge, weighing 
 nearly a pound each. In Paris they take the place of the smelt, and are 
 a great favourite ; they are in season in the summer. They should be cooked 
 as soon as caught, and be rather pink under the belly, and very stiff. In 
 cleaning, scrape off the little scales, make a small incision near the bladder, 
 pull out the gills, and the interior will come with them. 
 
160 
 
 FISH. 
 
 *270. GUDGEONS are floured, egged, bread-crumbed, 
 or simply floured, and fried as directed for smelts; but 
 being smaller, they require less time to cook. 
 
 The Bull's Head, or Miller's Thumb, should also be cooked in the same 
 way. In mentioning this fish, it reminds me that there is a sea-fish very 
 much like it, and often sold in the market; on the coast, it is the goby, 
 sometimes called the black and spotted goby. It should be cooked like eels. 
 
 Char .-—This is a very delicious fresh-water fish when obtained fresh, which 
 is exceedingly rare in London. The lakes of Westmoreland and Cumberland 
 boast of having the finest, but I have tasted very fine from those in Wales. 
 The red char has the finest flavour. It should be dressed like trout. 
 
 Chub I do not think much of, but it no doubt depends on the river where 
 taken; those caught in the winter are the best. They may be cooked like 
 carp. 
 
 Dace and Roach I esteem about as much as the chub; but if you have 
 them they are best cooked like the carp, sauce matelote. 
 
 Barbel should never be eaten ; I have known several very ill effects from 
 so doing, although it is generally supposed it is the roe alone which is noxious 
 and bad ; but should some follower of Isaak Walton be inclined to partake 
 of the produce of his own sport, then it should be well cleansed and put to 
 soak in a good marinade for twenty-four hours, and baked like carp. 
 
 The Eel is greatly esteemed in all countries, but it differs in taste accord¬ 
 ing to the river from whence it is taken ; although we have some vei’y fine 
 eels in the river Thames, yet our principal supply is received from Holland, 
 and the fish which come from thence are much improved in flavour by the 
 voyage, and even increase in size. They arrive in the river Thames in 
 vessels called eel scootes (schuyts), of which four have been allowed, for 
 centuries, to moor opposite the Custom House, and the others are obliged to 
 remain in Erith Hole until there is room for them, which greatly improves 
 the fish : the value of those imported into London last year amounted to 
 132,600Z. Nothing is more difficult to kill than eels; and it is only by 
 knocking the heads upon a block or hard substance, and stunning them, 
 that they suffer least. Take the head in your hand with a cloth, and just 
 «ut through the skin round the neck, which turn down about an inch ; then 
 null the head with one hand, and the skin with the other, it will come off 
 
FISH. 
 
 161 
 
 with facility ; open the belly, take out the interior without breaking the gall, 
 and cut off the bristles which run up the back. They are in season all the 
 year round. 
 
 280. EELS, FRIED.—Cut your eels into pieces three 
 inches long, trim them, dip the pieces into flour, egg over 
 with a paste-brush, and throw them into some bread¬ 
 crumbs ; fry in hot lard as directed for fried soles. 
 
 281. STEWED EELS, SAUCE MATELOTE.— 
 Procure as large eels as possible, which cut into pieces- 
 three inches long, and put them into a stewpan, with an 
 onion, a bouquet of two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme and 
 parsley, six cloves, a blade of mace, a glass of sherry, and 
 two of water; place the stewpan over a moderate Are, and 
 let simmer about twenty minutes, or according to the 
 size of the eels; when done, drain upon a cloth, dress 
 them in pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, with a 
 matelote sauce over, made as directed for salmon sauce 
 matelote, but using the stock your eels have been cooked 
 in to make the sauce, having previously well boiled it to 
 extract all the fat. 
 
 282. EELS A LA TARTARE. —Fry as directed 
 above, and serve on some Tartare sauce; or partly stew 
 first, and, when cold, egg, bread-crumb, and broil gently. 
 This last I much prefer. 
 
 283. SPITCHCOCKED EELS, in some parts of Eng¬ 
 land, are cooked with the skins on. They should be pro¬ 
 perly cleaned, and split down the back, and bone taken 
 out, and cut into pieces of about four inches long; egg 
 the inside, and throw over some bread-crumbs, in which 
 have been mixed some chopped parsley, a little dried 
 thyme, and some cayenne; place them in a Dutch oven 
 before the fire, and whilst cooking, baste them with butter 
 
 M 
 
162 
 
 FISH. 
 
 in which some essence of anchovies has been mixed. The 
 time the} 7- take cooking depends on the size, but may be 
 known by the skin turning up. 
 
 Lamprey .—There are several species of this fish; that called the lesser 
 lamprey, which we get in the river Thames and in the Severn, at Gloucester, 
 is the best; it is a fish which was thought a great deal of, but I am doubtful 
 if it is the murrena of the Romans, as the lamprey of the present day lives 
 entirely by suction and swims close to the surface of the water, and could 
 not, by the nature of its construction, feed near the bottom ; and, conse¬ 
 quently, could not be fed on the bodies of slaves, as is recorded of those with 
 which the Emperor Augustus was treated ; its food (so far as I have been 
 able to ascertain from examination of some thousands) consists of small water 
 insects and animalculse. Those caught when just ascending the river from 
 the sea are the best, which is about Christmas. There is a curious custom 
 still extant, of the city of Gloucester presenting the Queen with a lamprey- 
 pie every Christmas. 
 
 284. CONGER EEL is little appreciated in this 
 country, although amongst the Avorking class of our neigh¬ 
 bours, more particularly the French, it is an article of great 
 consumption. If alive, its head should be cut off, and it 
 should bleed as much as possible; but if dead, the pieces 
 should be put into lukewarm water to disgorge previous to 
 being cooked. The young fry are exceedingly good, and 
 may be dressed like fresh-Avater eels. The large ones may 
 be made into soup, and can also be cooked like sturgeon. 
 
 285. —FRENCH ANGLERS’ WAY OF STEWING 
 FISH.—Take about four pounds or less of all kinds of fresh¬ 
 water fish, that is, carp, pike, trout, tench, eels, &c., or any 
 one of them, cut them into nice middle-sized pieces, no 
 matter the size of the fish—let the pieces be of equal size; 
 put them in a black pot or stewpan, season over with 
 a tablespoonful of salt, half one of pepper, half one of 
 sugar, four good-sized onions, sliced thin, add a half bottle 
 of common French wine, or four glasses of port or sherry, 
 
FISH SAUCES. 
 
 163 
 
 half a pint of water; set it on the fire to stew, gently 
 tossing it now and then, w T hen tender, which you may 
 easily ascertain by feeling with your finger the different 
 pieces, mix a spoonful of flour with two ounces of butter, 
 which put bit by bit in the pan, move it round by shaking 
 the pan, not with any spoon; boil a few minutes longer, 
 and serve, dishing the fish in pyramid, sauce over; if the 
 sauce is too thin, reduce it till it adheres to the back of the 
 spoon; taste; if it is highly seasoned, a few sprigs of thyme 
 or bay-leaf maybe added. Some of the fish may be done 
 sooner than the others; if so, take them out first, and keep 
 warm until all are done. The motive of mixing fish is, 
 that it is supposed the flavour of all together is finer than 
 one alone. Conger eel is also done in this way. 
 
 FISH SAUCES. 
 
 In all ages and countries at all removed from barbarism, where fish has 
 formed an article of diet, sauces of various kinds have been an accompani¬ 
 ment. With the Romans, in the time of Lucullus, great care was observed 
 in their preparation ; amongst others which they used, and the most cele¬ 
 brated, was the Garum and the Muria. 
 
 The Garum was a sauce which the Romans used in almost all their dishes; 
 the most esteemed was that which came from Antipolis and from Dalmatia, 
 Horace praises that made at Byzance, it was the most esteemed and the most 
 expensive ; its composition is unknown. This is a subject well worth the atten¬ 
 tion of the epicures of the present day; they should subscribe and offer a pre¬ 
 mium for that which, in their opinion, may resemble it: it is a subject well 
 worthy the attention of the Professors of our Universities. Perhaps some leaf 
 yet undiscovered, that may have escaped the conflagration of Alexandria, might 
 throw some light upon so interesting a subject. It appears that mushrooms 
 entered greatly into its composition ; and that parts of mackerel, or of that 
 species, formed another. The question is, at what fbme of the year were 
 
 M 2 
 
164 
 
 FISH SAUCES. 
 
 mushrooms in season there ; and if at that period mackerel, or what species 
 of mackerel have soft roes, as I think it probable that they entered into its 
 composition, as an island near Carthagina, where they were caught, was 
 called Scombraria, and that which was prepared by a company in that town 
 and which was considered the best, was called Garum Sociorum. 
 
 The Muria was the liquid in which the tunny was pickled, and no doubt 
 very similar to our essence of anchovies. Those most generally in use 
 at the present day are the following; in addition to which there are 
 various kinds made and sold in bottles, some of which are much cheaper 
 to buy than to make. 
 
 286. MELTED BUTTER.—Put into a stewpan two 
 ounces of butter, not too hard, also a good tablespoonful 
 of flour, mix both well with a wooden spoon, without 
 putting it on the fire; when forming a smooth paste, add 
 to it a little more than half a pint of water; season with 
 a teaspoonful of salt, not too full, the sixth part that of 
 pepper; set it on the fire, stir round continually until on 
 the point of boiling; take it off, add a teaspoonful of 
 brown vinegar, then add one ounce more of fresh butter, 
 which stir in your sauce till melted, then use where re¬ 
 quired; a little nutmeg grated may be introduced; it ought, 
 when done, to adhere lightly to the back of the spoon, but 
 transparent, not pasty ; it may also, if required, be passed 
 through a tammy or sieve. If wanted plainer, the last 
 butter may be omitted. 
 
 287. ANCHOVY SAUCE.—Make the same quantity 
 of melted butter as in the last, but omit the salt, and add 
 three good tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies. 
 
 288. FENNEL SAUCE.—This is a sauce principally 
 used for boiled mackerel. Make the same quantity- of 
 melted butter as in the last, to which add a good tabie- 
 spoonfui of chopped fennel; it is usually served in a boat. 
 
FISH SAUCES. 
 
 165 
 
 289. EGG SAUCE is generally served with salt-fish or 
 haddock. Boil six eggs ten minutes, let them get cold, 
 then cut them in pieces about the size of dice, put them 
 into a stewpan, with three parts of a pint of melted butter, 
 add an ounce more fresh butter, with a little pepper and 
 salt; keep the stewpan moving round over the fire until 
 the whole is very hot, and serve in a boat. 
 
 290. SHRIMP SAUCE.—Make the same quantity of 
 melted butter as before, to which add three tablespoonfuls 
 of essence of shrimps, but omitting the salt; add half a 
 pint of picked shrimps, and serve in a boat. If no essence 
 of shrimps, some anchovy sauce may be served with 
 shrimps in it as a substitute. 
 
 291. SHRIMP SAUCE is also very good as follows: 
 Pound half a pint of shrimps, skins and all, in a mortar, 
 and boil them ten minutes in half a pint of water; pass 
 the liquor through a hair sieve into a stewpan, and add a 
 piece of butter the size of two walnuts, with which you 
 have mixed a good teaspoonful of flour, stir it round over 
 the fire until upon the point of boiling; it too thick, add a 
 little more water; season with a little cayenne and a tea¬ 
 spoonful of essence of anchovies; serve very hot; a few 
 picked shrimps might also be served in it. 
 
 292. LOBSTER, SAUCE. —Put twelve tablespoonfuls 
 of melted mutter in a stewpan, cutup a small-sized lobster 
 into dice, make a quarter of a pound of lobster butter with 
 the spawn, as directed ; when the melted butter is upon 
 the point of boiling, add the lobster butter, stir the sauce 
 round over the fire until the butter is melted, season with a 
 little essence of anchovies, the juice of half a lemon, and 
 a Quarter of a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; pass it 
 through a tammy into another stewpan, and add the flesh 
 
166 
 
 FISH SAUCES. 
 
 of the lobster; when hot, it is ready to serve where re¬ 
 quired. This sauce must be quite red: if no red spawn in 
 the lobster, use live spawn. 
 
 293. NEW & ECONOMICAL LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 -—Should you require to use the solid flesh of a lobster 
 for salad, or any other purpose, pound the soft part and 
 shell together (in a mortar) very fine, which put into a 
 stewpan, covered with a pint of boiling water; place it 
 over the fire to simmer for ten minutes, then pass the 
 liquor through a hair sieve into a basin; put three ounces 
 of butter into a stewpan, into which rub (cold) a good 
 tablespoonful of flour, add the liquor from the lobster, 
 place it upon the fire, stirring until the point of boiling; 
 season with a little cayenne, and add a piece of anchovy 
 butter, the size of a walnut; or, if any red spawn in the 
 lobster, mix it with butter, as in the last, and add it, with 
 the juice of half a lemon, just before serving. An anchovy 
 pounded with the lobster shells would be an improvement, 
 and part of the flesh of the lobster might be served in the 
 sauce. 
 
 294. LOBSTER SAUCE A LA CREME.—Cut a 
 small lobster into slices the size of half-crown pieces, 
 which put into a stewpan; pound the soft and white parts 
 with an ounce of butter, and rub it through a sieve; pour 
 ten spoonfuls of melted butter, and two of cream, over the 
 slices in the stewpan, add half a blade of mace, a salt- 
 spoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little 
 cayenne; warm gently, and when upon the point of boil¬ 
 ing, add the butter and two tablespoonfuls of thick cream; 
 shake round over the fire until quite hot, when it is ready 
 to serve. 
 
FISH SAUCES. 
 
 167 
 
 295. LOBSTER SAUCE SIMPLIFIED.—Put the 
 slices of lobster, as in the last, into a stewpan, with teir 
 tablespoonfuls of milk; add a little pepper, salt, cayenne, 
 two cloves, and half a blade of mace ; set it upon the fire* 
 and when on the point of boiling, add a piece of butter the 
 size of two walnuts, with which you have mixed a little flour; 
 shake round over the fire, and when getting rather thick, 
 add two spoonfuls of cream, if at hand, and serve very hot. 
 
 296. BEYROUT SAUCE.—Put a tablespoonful of 
 chopped onions into a stewpan, with one of Chili vinegar, 
 and one of common ditto, a pint of melted butter, four 
 spoonfuls of brown gravy, two of mushroom catsup, and 
 two of Harvey sauce ; place it over the fire, keeping it 
 stirred until boiling; then place it at the corner to simmer 
 five minutes, skim well, then place it again over the fire, 
 keeping it stirred until thick enough to adhere to the back of 
 the spoon; add two tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, 
 and half a teaspoonful of sugar ; it is then ready to serve. 
 
 The above, although a fish sauce, may be used for meat 
 or poultry, by omitting the anchovy, and adding more 
 Harvey sauce. If no brown gravy, add water, and a little 
 colouring. 
 
 297. OYSTER SAUCE.—Mix three ounces of butter 
 in a stewpan with two ounces of flour, then blanch and 
 beard three dozen oysters, put the oysters into another 
 stewpan, add beards and liquor to the flour and butter, 
 with a pint and a half of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, half a 
 salt-spoonful of cayenne, two cloves, half a blade of mace, 
 and six peppercorns; place it over the fire, keep stirring., 
 and boil it ten minutes, then add a tablespoonful of essence 
 of anchovies, and one of Harvey sauce; pass it through a 
 tammy over the oysters ; make the whole very hot without 
 
168 
 
 FISH SAUCES. 
 
 boiling, and serve. A less quantity may be made, using 
 less proportions. 
 
 298. ANOTHER METHOD.—Put a pint of white 
 sauce into a stewpan, with the liquor and beards of three 
 dozen oysters (as above), six peppercorns, two cloves, and 
 half a blade of mace; boil it ten minutes, then add a 
 spoonful of essence of anchovies, a little cayenne and salt 
 if required; pass it through a tammy, or hair-sieve, over 
 the oysters, as in the last. 
 
 299. A PLAINER METHOD.—Blanch three dozen 
 of oysters, which again put into the stewpan, with their 
 liquor, (after having detached the beards;) add six pepper¬ 
 corns and half a blade of mace; place them over the fire, 
 and when beginning to simmer, add a piece of butter the 
 size of a walnut, with which you have mixed sufficient 
 flour to form a paste, break it in four or five pieces; 
 shake the stewpan round over the fire, and when upon the 
 point of boiling, and becoming thick, add half a gill of 
 milk, or more if required; season with a little cayenne, 
 salt, pepper, and a few drops of essence of anchovies: 
 .serve very hot. 
 
 300. MUSSEL SAUCE.—Proceed exactly the same 
 as for oyster sauce, using only the liquor of the mussels 
 (not the beards) instead of the oysters, and serving the 
 mussels in the sauce ; about four dozen would be sufficient. 
 
 301. CREAM SAUCE.—Put two yolks of eggs in the 
 bottom of a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon, a quarter 
 of a teaspoonful of salt, a little white pepper, and a 
 quarter of a pound of hard fresh butter; place the stewpan 
 over a moderate fire, and commence stirring with a wooden 
 spoon, (taking it from the fire now and then when getting 
 too hot,) until the butter has gradually melted and 
 
FISH SAUCES. 
 
 169 
 
 thickened with the eggs—(great care must be exercised, 
 for if it should become too hot the eggs would curdle, and 
 render the sauce useless;) then add half a pint of melted 
 butter ; stir altogether over the fire, without permitting it 
 to boil; pass it through a tammy into another stewpan; 
 when wanted, stir it over the fire until hot. This sauce 
 may be served with any description of boiled fish. 
 
 302. MATELOTE SAUCE.—For about a pound slice 
 of salmon make the following quantity of sauce:—Peel 
 thirty button onions, and put half a teaspoonfnl of sugar 
 in a quart-size stewpan, place it over a sharp fire, and 
 when melted and getting brown, add a piece of butter, (the 
 size of two walnuts) and the onions, toss them over now 
 and then until rather brown, then add a glass of sherry; 
 let it boil; then add half a pint of brown sauce and a gill 
 of broth; simmer at the corner of the fire until the onions 
 are quite tender; skim it well, and add a few mushrooms, 
 if at hand; season with a little salt and sugar, and sauce 
 over any kind of fish where described. The addition of a 
 teaspoonful of essence of anchovies is an improvement. 
 Use where directed. 
 
 303. MATELOTE SAUCE SIMPLIFIED.—Proceed 
 as above respecting the onions, only add a fourth more 
 butter, and fry them a little browner; then add a glass of 
 sherry and two teaspoonfuls of flour, which stir round 
 gently with a small wooden spoon, add to it about a pint 
 of water, stir now and then till boiling, add three salt- 
 spoonfuls of salt, two of sugar, one of pepper, and a bou¬ 
 quet garni ; simmer and skim, add a few drops of colouring 
 to give it a nice brown colour; when ready to serve, add 
 a good tablespoonful of anchovy essence ; it ought to ad¬ 
 here lightly to the back of the spoon, but not be too thick; 
 sauce over or under, as directed ; small pieces of glaze, if 
 
170 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 at hand, put into it is an improvement, as is also using 
 broth instead of water; oysters and mushrooms may be 
 introduced, also a little cayenne pepper. This sauce 
 must be very savoury. 
 
 304. LOBSTER BUTTER.—Procure half a lobster, 
 quite full of spawn, which take out and pound well in a 
 mortar; then add six ounces of fresh butter, mix well 
 together, then rub it through a hair sieve, and put it in a 
 cold place until wanted. The flesh can be used for any 
 other dish. 
 
 305. ANCHOVY BUTTER.—Take the bones from 
 six anchovies, wash the fillets, and dry them upon a cloth, 
 pound them w T ell in a mortar; add six ounces of fresh 
 butter, mix well together, and proceed as in the last. 
 
 306. MAITRE-D’HOTEL BUTTER.—Put a quarter 
 of a pound of fresh butter upon a plate, with one good 
 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of two lemons, 
 half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter that quantity of 
 white pepper; mix all well together, and put in a cool 
 place till required. 
 
 307. RAVIGOTE BUTTER.—Proceed as in the last, 
 but instead of parsley, use one spoonful of chopped tar¬ 
 ragon, and one of chervil, and add half a spoonful of Chili 
 vinegar. 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 These are dishes which remove the fish and soup, and are placed at the 
 top and bottom of the table; great care should be evinced in cooking them, 
 as they are the “piece de resistance” of the dinner. I must also observe, 
 that a few of the receipts appear a little complicated, but which will not 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 171 
 
 prove to be tbe case if tried once or twice. In the entrees will be found 
 how the remains of these removes may be dressed. 
 
 Since the science of analytical chemistry has become so perfect, and has 
 shown us the elements of which every substance and liquid is composed, it 
 is necessary that, in order to continue them in a state of action, and prevent 
 decomposition, to repair the loss which they are every moment undergoing 
 from man, through every living thing, even down to earth and water ; but 
 I am not going to write you a lecture on chemistry, which will be so much 
 more easy to read in Liebig. In order for you to choose your meat and 
 viands with economy in regard to actual nourishment, I must tell you, that, 
 from infancy to old age, the human race is continually imbibing elements of 
 formation or reparation, from the lime in the mother’s milk, which forms the 
 bones, to the osmazome, extracted from animal matters, which creates a more 
 lively circulation of the blood when it becomes sluggish and dull in old age. 
 Each period, occupation, and station in life requires different substances of 
 reparation, with which we ought to make ourselves intimately acquainted. 
 Amongst the first, and that most generally in use with man, is the ox, the 
 principal nourishment derived from which consists in the osmazome, and is 
 that liquid part of the meat that is extracted by water at blood-heat. It is 
 this which is the foundation and flavour of all soups, which gives the flavour 
 to all meats, and which, on becoming candied by heat, forms the crust of 
 roast meats. 
 
 The osmazome is found principally in all adult animals having a dark 
 flesh, and to a very small extent in those having a white flesh, such as the 
 flesh of fowls; but it is in their back and legs where lies the principal 
 flavour. The bones of the ox contain gelatine and phosphate of lime. The 
 gelatine is also found in the muscles and other cartilaginous parts of animals. 
 It is extracted by boiling water, and coagulates at the ordinary temperature 
 of the atmosphere ; it is the foundation of all jellies, blancmanges, and other 
 similar preparations. 
 
 The albumen is also found in the flesh, and congeals as soon as the heat 
 rises beyond that of the blood ; this is the scum on the pot when the meat is 
 boiling. 
 
 BEEF.—All oxen should fast from twenty-four to forty-eight hours before 
 being killed; when killed and skinned, they are opened and the inside 
 cleaned ; they are then hung up, and ought to be exposed to a draught until 
 cold, and then divided down the back into two parts, leaving the head 
 
172 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 whole ; these sides are then divided into two, called the fore-and-hind quar¬ 
 ters : the fore-quarter contains the shin, the clod and stickings, leg of mutton 
 piece, chuck, middle rib, fore rib ; the hind-quarter consists of the rump, 
 sirloin, thin and thick flank, the veiny-piece, aitch-bone, buttock or round, 
 and leg and foot ; the head contains the tongue, palate, and brains ; the 
 entrails consist of the heart, liver, sweetbread, kidneys, skirts, and the 
 double roll and reed tripe. When the meat is cut up, the following kernels 
 must be taken out, in order to preserve the beef, particularly in hot 
 weather : those in the neck, where the shoulder clod is removed; two from 
 the round, the pope’s eye, and one from the flap ; one in the thick flap 
 in the middle of the flank, and another between the rump and aitch-bone. 
 The flavour and quality of the meat depend on the country whence it comes, 
 and the nature of its food.* As a general rule, the flesh ought to be of a 
 dark red colour, smooth, open-grained, with fat rather white than yellow, 
 running in thin streaks through the flesh. Ox-beef is the largest and richest, 
 but heifer is better, if well fed. It should be hung for two days previous to 
 using, in a cool place, free from draught; it will keep good from three to 
 six days, according to the weather. 
 
 308. SIRLOIN OF BEEF should never be less than 
 three of the short ribs, and will weigh more or less accord¬ 
 ing to the size of the ox from which it is taken; that 
 from a small, well-fed, Scotch heifer, I consider the best; 
 it will weigh about twelve pounds, and take about two 
 hours and a half to roast, depending much on the fire. 
 Having spitted or hung the joint, cover it with buttered 
 paper, and place it eighteen inches from the fire; about 
 one hour after it has been down, remove the paper, 
 and place the joint nearer the fire, put half a pint 01 
 w r ater, with a little salt, in the dripping-pan; about a 
 quarter of an hour before removing from the fire, dredge 
 it with flour and salt from the dredging-box; w r hen taken 
 from the fire, empty the contents of the dripping-pan into 
 a, basin, from which remove the fat; pour the gravy in the 
 
 * See future Letters. 
 
■REMOVES. 
 
 173 
 
 dish, and then place the joint on it; serve some scraped 
 horseradish separate. A Yorkshire pudding is very ex¬ 
 cellent when cooked under this joint. 
 
 309. RIBS OF BEEF.—This piece should consist of 
 at least three ribs ; the bones are generally sawn through 
 about three inches from the top; these should be removed, 
 leaving the flap, which fold under and Ax with wooden 
 skewers. This, in roasting, should be prepared and 
 dredged as the sirloin. A drop of colouring gives the 
 gravy an inviting appearance. 
 
 310. RIBS OF BEEF BRAISED.—Take four ribs,* 
 not too fat nor too thick, remove the chine-bone neatly, 
 and four inches of the tips of the rib-bones, run with a 
 larding-needle several pieces of fat bacon through the thick 
 part, trim over the flap and tie it well round, put it into 
 the braising-pan; put a quarter of a pound of butter, one 
 teaspoonful of pepper, and three teaspoonfuls ot salt, into 
 the pan, cover it over, and place it on a slow fire for thirty 
 minutes, stirring it now and then, then add two quarts of 
 water; at the expiration of one hour and a half, add eighty 
 small button onions and sixty small young carrots, or 
 pieces of large ones cut in the shape, which place around 
 the meat; a bouquet of ten sprigs oi parsley, three bay- 
 leaves, and four sprigs of thyme tied together; half an 
 hour after, add sixty round pieces of turnip; then place 
 some live coals on the lid, and let it stew gently for one 
 hour and a half longer, being altogether about four hours. 
 Take out the meat, remove the string, and trim it. Skim 
 off the fat from the liquor in the pan, remove the bouquet, 
 &c., add a few pieces of butter, in which have been mixed 
 a tablespoonful of flour and a teaspoonful of sugar, two of 
 
 * For a small family, one rib of about four pounds, boned, rolled, and 
 braised, is an economical dish* 
 
174 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 browning, stir gently with a wooden spoon, and, when just 
 on the boil, dress round the meat, and serve. In case it 
 has reduced too much, add water. 
 
 The foregoing receipt may appear rather complicated, and may perhaps 
 frighten you, and prevent you trying it; but I assure you, if you once try it, 
 you will find it so good as to repeat it, particularly as many other receipts 
 will be referred to this one. The vegetables and meat cold, are excellent. 
 
 311. STEWED RUMP OF BEEF.— This is a very excel¬ 
 lent and useful joint to be continually kept in a country-house, where you 
 may be some distance from a butcher’s,, as, when hung up in a cool larder, 
 it keeps good for a considerable time, and you never feel at a loss should 
 some friends call unawares : after a third of it has been removed for steaks, 
 pies, or puddings, the remainder makes an excellent joint, roasted or braised 
 like the ribs, or stewed as follows : 
 
 Cut it away from the bone, cut about twenty long pieces 
 of „fat bacon, which run through the flesh in a slanting 
 direction with a larding needle; then chop up the bone, 
 place it at the bottom of a large stewpan, with six cloves, 
 three onions, one carrot, a turnip, and a head of celery; 
 then lay in the rump, (previously tying it up with string,) 
 which just cover with water, add a tablespoonful of salt, two 
 burnt onions, (if at hand,) place upon the fire, and, when 
 boiling, stand it at the corner; let it simmer nearly four 
 hours, beeping it shimmed; when done, pass part of the 
 stock it was cooked in (keeping the beef hot in the re¬ 
 mainder) through a hair sieve into a basin; in another 
 stewpan have ready a quarter of a pound of butter, melt 
 it over the fire, add six ounces of flour, mix well to¬ 
 gether, stirring over the fire until becoming a little 
 brownish; take off, and when nearly cold, add two 
 quarts of the stock, stir it over the fire until it boils; 
 then have four carrots, four turnips, (cut into small 
 pieces with cutters,) and forty button onions peeled; put 
 hem into the sauce, when again boiling draw it to the 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 ] 75 
 
 corner, where let simmer until tender, keeping it skimmed; 
 add a little powdered sugar and a bunch of parsley ; if it 
 should become too thick, add a little more of the stock; 
 dress the beef upon a dish, sauce round, and serve. Brown 
 sauce may be used, and the gravy will make excellent 
 soup. 
 
 312. SALT ROUND OF BEEF.—This magnificent 
 joint is, in general, too large for small families, but occa¬ 
 sionally it may be used; the following is, therefore, the 
 best method of cooking it: having folded the fat round it, 
 and fastened it with skewers, tie round it, not too tight, 
 some wide tape and a thin cloth, place it in a large stock- 
 pot with plenty of cold water, set it upon a good fire, and 
 when beginning to boil, draw it to the corner, where let it 
 simmer until done ; five hours will be enough for a large 
 one of thirty to thirty-five pounds; when done, remove 
 the cloth and tape, and dish it up, previously cutting a 
 slice two inches thick from the top, pouring a pint of the 
 hot liquor over it when serving. To serve it cold, M. Soyer, 
 in his “ Regenerator,” thus describes it:— 
 
 u After receiving the above useful lesson, and being desirous of improving 
 my profession in all its branches, I remembered that, amongst the number of 
 joints boiled to serve cold for large civic, agricultural, or benevolent anniver¬ 
 sary dinners, the round of beef was the most prominent, and having seen it 
 standing in dishes to get cold, with the dish filled with the gravy that runs 
 from it, particularly if a little over-done, caused me to hit upon the following 
 expedient to prevent the meat losing so much of its succulence :— 
 
 “ Fill two large tubs with cold water, into which throw 
 a few pounds of rough ice, and when the round is done, 
 throw it. cloth and all, into one of the tubs of ice-water; 
 let remain one minute, when take out and put it into the 
 other tub; fill the first tub again with water, and continue 
 the above process for about twenty minutes; then set it 
 upon a dish, leaving the cloth on until the next day, or 
 
170 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 until quite cold; when opened, the fat will be as white as 
 possible, beside having saved the whole of the gravy. If 
 no ice, spring water will answer the same purpose, but 
 will require to be more frequently changed; the same mode 
 would be equally successful with the aitch-bone.” 
 
 313. HALF-ROUND OF BEEF ( Silver-side ) should be 
 put into cold water, and let it come to a boil; simmer for 
 two hours and a half, and serve the same as a round. 
 
 314. AITCH-BONE OF BEEF (or, as I think it ought 
 to be called, EDGE-BONE).—This is a very nice joint 
 for a small family, but not so economical as is generally 
 supposed; it should be pickled carefully, and cooked in 
 the same way as the round; one weighing ten pounds will 
 take two hours and a half; it should be trimmed on the 
 top, and served with some of the liquor under it. It is 
 very good when fresh and braised like the ribs (No. 310). 
 
 315. SALT BRISKET OF BEEF.—This is by no 
 means an economical joint, as it loses considerably in 
 cooking; it requires a long time to boil; should it be re¬ 
 quired as a large cold joint, the following is the best plan : 
 procure a nice brisket with as little fat as possible, detach 
 the whole of the bones from it, make a pickle {see 
 Receipt), where place it in it, previously rubbing it well 
 with two cloves of garlic, leave it in the pickle from seven 
 to nine days, rubbing and turning it every day; when ready 
 to cook, cut it into two parts, (one about two inches longer 
 than the other,) tie them together, and afterwards, in a 
 clean cloth, simmer it for about six or seven hours in a 
 large stock-pot full of water; when done, take it out and 
 let it drain, have ready a large dish-cover, place it upon a 
 trivet, remove the cloth and string from the meat, and 
 place it in the cover; have ready a piece of board to fit 
 
removes. 
 
 17? 
 
 inside the cover, place it on the meat with a half-hundred 
 weight on the top, and let it remain in a cold place unti 
 the next day, when take it out, trim it, garnish it nicely, 
 and serve. Ihis will keep good a considerable time, and 
 is excellent for breakfast or luncheon; besides, it always 
 keeps a ‘ piece de resistance” in the larder, in case of 
 accidents. It is also, when fresh, very excellent stewed 
 like the rump of beef; or plain salted. 
 
 316. TO POT BEEF.—If there are of the remains of 
 ribs of beef, take all the meat from the bones, remove the 
 skin, and separate the fat from the meat, mince the meat 
 into small pieces, melt the fat and strain it. To one pound 
 of meat cut up a small onion about one inch in diameter 
 into small pieces, place it in a fryingpan with a little fat, 
 and fry it; when brown throw in the meat, and give it a 
 turn or two, remove it, and place it in a mortar, pound it 
 well, adding whilst pounding, five ounces of fat, or if not 
 fat enough, fresh butter, to every pound of meat, and a 
 little cayenne, half teaspoonful of grated mace, ditto nut- 
 meg; when well mixed, place it in pots, and cover it over 
 with clarified butter and paper; keep it in a dry place. 
 
 Poultry and game may be done in the same way, using 
 butter instead of fat. 
 
 371. HAMBURGH BEEF.—The ribs are the best; 
 they should be put to soak in soft water for twelve hour? 
 and then put into cold water and boiled gradually; a 
 piece of three ribs will take three hours; if intended to 
 be served hot, the outside should be cut off, and the joint 
 nicely trimmed and served up with the following garni- 
 tme round it: take four handfuls of brown kale, well 
 washed, put a saucepan on the fire, with a gallon of water, 
 and let it well boil; then add two tablespoonfuls of salt 
 and half a saltspoonful of carbonate of soda, put the kale 
 
 N 
 
178 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 in, let it boil for ten minutes, drain it, and squeeze all the 
 water from it, put it on a chopping-board and chop it fine, 
 then put it into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, half 
 a teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, a little 
 nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and twenty roasted 
 chesnuts cut in half, put it on the fire and keep stirring it 
 for ten minutes: if too dry, add a little milk or gravy, and 
 place it on the side of the fire until wanted. 
 
 818. TO BOIL A PICKLED OX TONGUE.—Put 
 the tongue into a large stewpan containing two gallons of 
 cold water, which set upon the fire until boiling, then draw 
 it to the corner to simmer for three hours, if a tongue 
 weighing about six pounds; but the better way to ascertain 
 when done, is to try it with a trussing-needle, or the prongs 
 of a fork, in the thickest part; if tender it is done, but if 
 hard it must boil rather longer. A dried tongue should be 
 soaked twenty-four hours previously to boiling; when done, 
 skin it and trim the root, &e., and use where directed. 
 
 319. TO COOK A FBESPX OX TONGUE.—Put a 
 tongue in lukewarm water for twelve hours, to disgorge, 
 then trim the root, and scrape the tongue quite clean; have 
 ready twenty pieces of fat bacon two inches long and half 
 an inch square, which introduce with a larding-pin into 
 the most fleshy part in a slanting direction; then rub the 
 tongue all over with salt, and run a long iron skewer 
 through it, which tie upon, surround the tongue with vege¬ 
 tables, the same as directed for turkeys roasted and braised 
 and roast for two hours before a good fire; twenty minutes 
 before it is done take away the paper and vegetables, to 
 give a nice brown colour; when done trim a little, to keep 
 it steady in the dish,and garnish with any kind of stewed 
 vegetables, or cut it in halves lengthwise to form a heart, 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 179 
 
 and sauce over with piquante, tomato, or any other sharp 
 sauces found in their series. If no convenience for roast- 
 ing, put into a stewpan a piece of leg of beef (cut small) 
 weighing two pounds, with two onions, one carrot, two 
 blades of mace, a little thyme and bay-leaf, and a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, saute the whole twenty minutes, keep¬ 
 ing it stirred over a moderate fire, then put in the tongue 
 (previously prepared) and two ounces of salt, cover with 
 water, and let boil gently four hours, skim and serve, 
 l he stock would be excellent for soup or brown sauce of 
 any kind. The remains could be served in either of the 
 methods directed for the remainder of pickled tongue. 
 
 o2Q. RUMP STEAK BROILED.—Procure a steak cut 
 nice and even, if about half an inch in thickness (if well 
 cut it will not require beating), which lay upon a gridiron 
 over a sharp fire; have a good teaspoonful of salt, and 
 half that quantity of pepper mixed together upon a plate, 
 half of which sprinkle upon the side of the steak upper¬ 
 most; after it has been upon the fire a couple of miuutes, 
 turn, and sprinkle the remainder of the seasoning upon 
 the other side; it will take about ten minutes to cook it to 
 penection, turning it occasionally, and serve upon a very 
 hot dish, with a little scraped horseradish round. If pro¬ 
 pel ly done, it ought to be full of gravy, but a great deal 
 depends upon the fire, which, if bad, causes the gravy to 
 ooze from the meat and lay upon the top, which you lose 
 in turning the steak over. A rump steak may also be 
 sened broiled as above, with a little maitre-d’hotel or 
 anchovy butter, rubbed over as soon as done, also potatoes, 
 cut the size of half-crown or shilling pieces, and fried crisp 
 in hot fat, dress round. Or a steak may be served, with 
 a few water cresses, well-washed and dried, upon a plate 
 spiinkled with a little pepper, salt, and vinegar, and gar-> 
 
 N 2 
 
180 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 nished round; a little oil might also be added. (See 
 
 Broiling.) 
 
 VEAL of about two or three months old is the best; the flesh ought to be 
 white, approaching to pink, and the fat firm ; it is cut up the same as 
 mutton, except that, in the hind-quarter, the loin is cut straight, leaving 
 the aitch-bone on it, which may be either dressed on the loin or separate. 
 The fore-quarter consists of the shoulder, neck, and breast. The hind- 
 quarter, the knuckle, leg, fillet, and the loin. The head and pluck consist 
 of the heart, liver, nuts, skirts, melt, and the heart, throat, and sweetbread. 
 
 The bull-calf is the best, the flesh is firmer grained or redder, and the fat 
 more curdled than the cow-calf, which latter is in general preferred, being 
 more delicate and better adapted for made dishes, as having the udder. 
 Nothing can be worse than veal if not fresh; it should never hang more than 
 two days in summer and four in winter. To be in full perfection, the 
 kidneys ought to be covered with fat, and the veins in the shoulder bright 
 red or blue. It is best from May to September, although it may be had 
 good all the year. The head, when fresh, should have the eyes plump and 
 lively ; if stale, they are sunk and wrinkled. 
 
 321. FILLET OF YEAL.—Choose it of the best 
 quality. Procure a leg, saw off the knuckle, take out the 
 bone in the centre of the fillet, and fill up the cavity with 
 some stuffing made as directed, ( see Receipt,) fold the 
 under and flap round, which fix with three skewers; place 
 half a sheet of buttered foolscap paper top and bottom, 
 which tie over and over with plenty of string, run a spit 
 through, fixing the fillet with a holdfast; set down to 
 roast, placing it rather close to the fire ten minutes, rub 
 well over with butter, then place it at least two feet and a 
 half from the fire, to roast very slowly, giving it a fine 
 gold colour; a fillet, weighing sixteen pounds would 
 require four hours’ roasting, when done, take it up, detach 
 all the string and paper, trim the top and set it upon your 
 dish; have a pint of melted butter, in a stewpan upon 
 the fire, to which, when boiling, add four spoonfuls of 
 Harvey sauce, and two of mushroom catsup, mix well, and 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 181 
 
 pour round the fillet; have also boiled nicely an ox¬ 
 tongue, which skin and trim, dress upon a dish surrounded 
 with green or cabbage nicely boiled, and serve as an 
 accompaniment to the fillet. 
 
 8*22. LOIN OF VEAL.—One with plenty of fat and 
 a good kidney, from which the chump and the rib-bone at 
 the other end have been removed; fasten the flap over the 
 kidney w T ith a skewer, run a spit through lengthwise, com¬ 
 mencing at the thick end, and fixing it with a holdfast, 
 cover it with buttered paper; one of fourteen pounds will 
 take about three hours to roast. Serve with melted butter 
 poured under. Some take out the kidney and fat, and 
 serve separate on a toast. 
 
 328. CHUMP OF VEAL can be either roasted or 
 boiled; one about four pounds will take one hour to 
 roast, and one hour and a quarter to boil; roasted, serve 
 like the loin ; boiled, serve with either sauces, Nos. 135, 
 159, 165. 
 
 324. BREAST OF VEAL PLAIN ROASTED.— 
 Paper the joint, and roast for about one hour and a half, 
 and serve with gravy and melted butter; it may be roasted 
 with the sweetbread skewered to it. Take the tendons off, 
 stew them for entrees. 
 
 325. SHOULDER OF VEAL.—One weighing four¬ 
 teen pounds will take about two hours and a half to three 
 hours to roast or braise; if roasted, the same sauce as for 
 the loin (No. 322), and braise (No. 332.) 
 
 326. NECK OF VEAL.—Procure about eight pounds 
 of a nice white neck of veal, containing six or seven chops, 
 saw off the under part of the chine-bone, so as to give it 
 
18*2 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 a nice square appearance; lard it thus: take about twelve 
 pieces of fat bacon, two inches long and a quarter of an inch 
 square, put the larding-needle through the flesh of the 
 veal about one inch and a half, then put one third of the 
 length of the piece of bacon in it, pull the needle out, and 
 it will leave the bacon in the meat, showing a quarter of 
 an inch of the bacon outside. (See Larding.) Then braise 
 as ribs of beef. Two hours will suffice. 
 
 327. NECK OF VEAL WITH PEAS.—Proceed as 
 in the former receipt, leaving out the vegetables, and 
 adding, half an hour previous to the meat being done, one 
 quart of peas, twelve button onions, and a little more 
 sugar; remove the fat, and serve as before. 
 
 328. NECK OF VEAL WITH HARICOTS.—Pro¬ 
 ceed as before, substituting the haricots for the peas, which 
 must have been boiled in plenty of water for three or four 
 hours previously. (See Receipt for Haricots.) 
 
 329. NECK OF VEAL WITH NEW POTATOES. 
 —As before, using new potatoes in place of the peas. Any 
 other vegetable, as French beans, broad beans, &c., may 
 be served with it in the same way. 
 
 330. NECKS OF VEAL can be larded or plain roasted, 
 or braised in plain gravy as before, and served with either 
 sauces, Nos. 155, 140, 142, 170. 
 
 331. KNUCKLE OF VEAL is a very favourite dish 
 of mine. Procure two of them, which saw into six 
 pieces, and put into a stewpan, with a piece of streaked 
 bacon two pounds in weight, four onions, a carrot, 
 two turnips, and six peppercorns; place over the Are, 
 and when boiling add a little salt, skim well, and set 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 183 
 
 at the corner to simmer gently for two hours, take out; 
 dress them in your dish, surrounded with the vegetables 
 and bacon, and serve with parsley and butter over. Very 
 good soup may be made from the stock it is boiled in, 
 if required, or if not, into glaze, which put bv until 
 wanted. 
 
 332. LOIN OF VEAL BRAISED.—This joint gene¬ 
 rally weighs from twelve to fourteen pounds, when off a 
 good calf. Have the rib-bones carefully divided with a 
 saw, so as not to hurt the fillet, prepare the braising-pan, 
 and proceed as in receipt, (No. 308;) with the addition of 
 one pint more water, but take care not to cover the meat, 
 which might happen if your stewpan was too deep, (this 
 would be boiling instead of braising;) it will take about 
 three hours: be careful to remove the fat, as this joint 
 produces a great deal. Taste the sauce before serving, in 
 case more seasoning is required, which might be the case, 
 depending on the nature of the veal. A good cook should 
 taste all sauces before serving. 
 
 333. BREAST OF VEAL STUFFED & STEWED. 
 —Take about eight pounds of the breast of veal, put your 
 knife about half an inch under the skin, and open it about 
 three parts of its width all the way down, then prepare 
 some veal stuffing, and lay it in the opening you have 
 made about one inch in thickness, sew it up, and proceed 
 as receipt for shoulder. 
 
 Should half the size of either the above dishes be re¬ 
 quired, use but half the vegetables in proportion, and 
 stew half an hour less. 
 
 The CHUMP, SMALL SHOULDER, or pieces of the 
 jillet may be dressed in the same way, but must be larded, 
 like the neck. 
 
184 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 All the above joints may be stewed in the same way, 
 with less vegetables, and served with sauces Nos. 136,140; 
 the gravy in which they are stewed will always be useful in 
 the kitchen, or may be reduced and served with the joint. 
 
 334. SHOULDER OF VEAL STUFFED AND 
 
 STEWED. —This is a very awkward joint to carve to advantage, and 
 equally so to cook; by the following plan it goes further than any other way. 
 
 Take the joint and lay it with the skin-side downwards, 
 with a sharp thin knife carefully detach the meat from the 
 blade-bone, then hold the shoulder edgewise and detach 
 the meat from the other side of the bone, being careful 
 not to make a hole in the skin; then cut the bone from 
 the knuckle and take it out; you may at first be rather 
 awkward about it, but after once or twice trying, it will 
 become easy; you may also take out the other bone, but 
 I prefer it in, as it keeps the shape better; then lard the 
 lean part like the neck in No. 328; mix some salt and a 
 little mixed spice together, with which rub the meat from 
 ■whence the bone has been cut, stuff with veal stuffing, or 
 sausage-meat, or suet-pudding; braise, garnish, and serve 
 as No. 310. This being the toughest part of the veal, it 
 should be tried before taking up, to see if it is properly 
 done, by thrusting a larding-needle in it; if it goes in 
 easily it is done. This joint is excellent cold, and should 
 be carved in thin slices crosswise. 
 
 335. CALF’S HEAD.—Choose one thick and fat, but 
 not too large; soak for ten minutes in lukewarm water, 
 then well powder with rosin, have plenty of scalding water 
 ready, dip in the head, holding it by the ear, scrape the 
 hair off with the back of a knife, which will come off easily 
 if properly scraped, without scratching the cheek; when 
 perfectly clean, take the eyes out, saw it in two lengthwise, 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 185 
 
 through the skull, without spoiling the brain, which take 
 carefully out, and put to disgorge for a few hours in luke¬ 
 warm water; pull the tongue out, break the jaw-bone, 
 and remove the part which contains the teeth, put the 
 head into plenty of water to disgorge for one hour; make 
 the following stock and boil for about two hours and a 
 half, and it will be ready to serve. 
 
 The stock is made by putting into a braising-pan two 
 carrots, three onions, a quarter of a pound of butter, six 
 cloves, a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; set 
 it on the fire for about twenty minutes, keep stirring it 
 round, then add a pint of water, and when warm mix a 
 quarter of a pound of flour, add a gallon of water, one 
 lemon in slices, and a quarter of a pound of salt, then 
 lay the head in; take care it is well covered, or the part 
 exposed will turn dark; simmer gently till tender. 
 
 LETTER No. XIII. 
 
 My dear Eloise, —Do not make any mistakes in the way you describe the 
 above receipts, which might be made very ridiculous if wrongly explained. 
 For example : I once had an old French Cookery Book in my hand, with 
 the 15th edition stamped on its old brown leather cheek, containing a 
 receipt of “ Tete de Veau a la poulette,” (that is, a calf’s head, with white 
 sauce,) in which small onions and mushrooms are introduced, that read 
 a3 follows—but, before describing it, allow me five minutes to indulge in 
 a hearty laugh at the absurd manner in which it is explained : “ Fii*st 
 choose your head as thick and fat as you can, then plunge it in two gallons 
 of water, which must be nearly boiled in a pan on the fire ; let your head 
 remain about ten minutes, then take it out by the ears, and, after remaining 
 a short time, scrape your hair off with the back of a knife without injuring 
 your cheek, and pull your eyes out; break your jawbone and saw your head 
 in two without smashing your brains, which take out carefully ; set it in cold 
 water to get clean and white; then pull out your tongue, scrape and dry it, 
 having previously boiled it with your head, which, after two hours’ ebullition. 
 
186 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 will feel as soft as possible, when see that your head is in the centre of the 
 dish ; your tongue divided in two and placed on each side of it: sharp sauce, 
 according-to No. —, is allowed to be served with either head or tongue.’* 
 I assure you, dear, although I do not profess to be a first-rate scholar in that 
 fashionable language—French, I believe this to be as near as possible the 
 true translation of the original. Then follow calves’ feet, which is nearly as 
 absurd-as the former : (C Pied de Veau au naturel,” Calves’ Feet, the natural 
 way .—“ Choose your fine feet in the rough state, and, as with your head, 
 place a pan of water on the fire ; when hot, but not too much so, put 
 your feet in the water for about ten minutes, try if you can easily clean 
 them as your head with a knife, if not, add a spoonful of salt in the water, 
 and let them remain a few minutes longer; then scrape like your head; 
 when well cleaned wipe them dry, and they are ready for dressing, which 
 may be done in almost twenty different ways. (See the series * How to cook 
 Pigs’ Feet.’) When your feet are tender, set them on a dish, take out the 
 big bone, surround them with sausage-meat; wrap them up in caul, and 
 form a heart with them; then place your feet on a gridiron, let them gently 
 broil, and, when done, eat them for breakfast or luncheon.” (After which 
 a gentle walk might give you an appetite for dinner.) 
 
 CALF’S HEAD (No. 335 ) may be dressed thus:— 
 Half of the head will make a good dish for a remove; lay 
 it in the dish very hot, having previously drained it well; 
 have ready about a pint of Hollandaise or cream sauce, 
 No. 301, pour it over and serve. 
 
 It may be surrounded with a dozen new potatoes if in 
 season, or some quenelles, or quarters of hard-boiled 
 eggs ; a little chopped parsley thrown on the head when 
 the sauce is over it, makes it look very inviting. It can 
 also be served “ a la poulette,” by putting a pint of white 
 sauce in a stewpan; have peeled and cooked about fifty 
 button onions in white broth, to which you have added a 
 little sugar and butter, and a few mushrooms; add the 
 broth, onions, and sauce together, and when on the point 
 of boiling, add a liaison of two yolks of eggs, and the 
 juice of a lemon; stir it well round; it ought to be the 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 187 
 
 thickness of cream sauce; pour over the head and 
 serve. 
 
 It can also be egged and bread-crumbed, and placed in 
 the oven for twenty minutes to get a nice brown colour, 
 and may be served with sauces Nos. 155, 170. 
 
 336. CALF’S HEAD, NORMANDY FASHION.— 
 Having boiled the half head with the skin on, take the 
 brain, which you have already blanched, and beat up with 
 half a pint of milk, a little pepper and salt, add the pulp 
 of two baked apples and two boiled onions beaten up, 
 place them in a stewpan and boil gently for a short time; 
 pass through a sieve, take about a pint of the liquor in 
 which the head has been boiled, and put the brain, &c. in 
 it, give it a gentle simmer, stirring it often; it should be 
 the consistency of thick cream; having removed the skin 
 from the tongue, cut it into slices, and put in the sauce; 
 when ready to serve, stir a whole egg well into it, place 
 the head in a dish, and pour over. 
 
 MUTTON.—The sheep, when killed, is generally divided into two, by 
 cutting across about two ribs below the shoulder ; these are called the fore« 
 and-hind-quarters : the former contains the head, neck, breast, and shoulder; 
 the latter, the leg and loin; or the two loins together, the saddle or chine; 
 or the leg and four ribs of the loin, the haunch. The entrails are called the 
 pluck, which are the liver, lights, heart, sweetbread, and melt. When cut 
 up, the kernel at the tail, that in the fat in the thick part of the leg, and 
 the pipe that runs along the bone of the chine, should be removed. The 
 flavour depends on the breed and pasture; that is best which has a dark- 
 coloured flesh, of a fine grain, well mixed with fat, which must be firm and 
 white. Wether mutton is the best; the meat of ewe mutton is of a paler 
 colour, and the fat yellow and spongy. To keep a loin, saddle, or haunch, 
 the kidney-fat should be removed, and the place rubbed with a little salt. 
 Mutton should never be cooked unless it has hung forty-eight hours after it 
 is killed; and it can be kept for twenty-one days, and sometimes longer in 
 a severe winter. 
 
188 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 337. HAUNCH OF MUTTON.—I have already de¬ 
 scribed the mode of selecting the best for a small family 
 —a Welsh, Devonshire, or Southdown; in cold winter 
 time, a plump Scotch Highland, in Ireland a Kerry or 
 Wicldow is the best; it should have been hung three 
 weeks. Saw or break three inches from the knuckle-bone, 
 remove all skin from the loin, put it on a spit, commencing 
 at the knuckle, and bringing it out at the flap, avoiding the 
 fillet of the loin; then cover it, with three sheets of but¬ 
 tered paper, place it about eighteen inches from the fire, 
 if a large one it will take two hours and a half; half an 
 hour before being done, remove the paper, baste it with a 
 little butter, and dredge it slightly; when done, dish it up 
 with a frill round the knuckle, and pour a pint of hot gravy 
 over. In summer time, French beans should be served 
 with it, but always mashed potatoes. 
 
 338. SADDLE OF MUTTON.—The same rule in 
 regard to choice applies to this as to the haunch. Take 
 off the skin, run a lark-spit through the spinal marrow¬ 
 bone, which affix to a larger one with a holdfast at one 
 end and string at the other; then tie the paper over the 
 back, and place it down to roast; it will not take so long 
 a time to roast, in proportion, as another joint; one about 
 ten pounds will take about one hour and twenty minutes; 
 remove the paper ten minutes before taking it from the 
 fire, dredge to give it a nice colour, and make gravy as for 
 beef, No. 308, or serve with gravy, No. 183. 
 
 339. SADDLE OF MUTTON, A LA POLONAISE. 
 —This is my economical dish, par excellence , and very 
 much it is liked every time I use it. Take the remains of 
 a saddle of mutton, of the previous day, cut out all the 
 meat close to the bone, leaving about one inch wide on 
 the outside, cut it with a portion of the fat, into small dice; 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 189 
 
 then put a spoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan, with 
 a little butter; fry one minute, add the meat, with a table- 
 spoonful of flour, season rather high with salt, pepper, and 
 a little grated nutmeg; stir round, and moisten with a gill 
 or a little more of broth, add a bay-leaf, put it on the stove 
 for ten minutes, add tw T o yolks of eggs, stir till lather thick, 
 make about two pounds of mashed potatoes firm enough 
 to roll, put the saddle-bone in the middle of the dish, and 
 with the potatoes form an edging round the saddle, so as 
 to give the shape of one, leaving the middle empty, fill it 
 with your mince meat, which ought to be enough to do so. 
 if you should not have enough with the remains of the 
 saddle, the remains of any other joint of mutton may be 
 used; egg all over, sprinkle bread-crumbs around, put 
 in rather a hot oven, to get a nice yellow coloui, poach six 
 eggs, and place on the top, and serve brown gravy round; 
 white or brown sauce, if at hand, is an improvement. You 
 may easily fancy the economy of this well-looking and 
 good dish; the remains of a leg, shoulder, loin, neck of 
 mutton, and lamb, maybe dressed the same way,keeping 
 their shape of course. 
 
 340. ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.—Choose the same 
 as for the haunch. One about eight pounds weight will 
 take about one hour and a half to roast; run the spit in at 
 the knuckle, and bring it out at the thigh bone; roast it 
 some little distance from the fire at first, bringing it nearer 
 as it gets done; baste it with a little butter whilst loasting, 
 or cover it with a sheet of well-buttered papei, which le- 
 move just before it is quite cooked. The leg of wether 
 mutton is the best for roasting; should it be ewe, and in¬ 
 tended for roasting, I proceed thus two or three da>s be¬ 
 fore I want it. I make a small incision close to the 
 knuckle, pushing a wooden skewer down to the leg-bone 
 
190 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 as far as it will go; I then take one tablespoonful of port 
 wine, if none handy I use catsup, and a teaspoonful of 
 either treacle, apple or currant jelly, and mix them to¬ 
 gether ; I then remove the skewer, and run the mixture in 
 the hole, closing it with two cloves of garlic. This joint 
 I prefer to dangle, rather than put on the spit. 
 
 341. BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.—This I prefer 
 of the Southdown breed, and ewe is equally as good as the 
 wether. Cut the end of the knuckle from the leg, put it 
 into an oval pan, in which there is sufficient water to cover 
 it, throw in about one ounce of salt, place it upon a sharp 
 fire until it is on the point of boiling, then remove to the 
 side, in five minutes remove the scum, and then let it 
 simmer gently; if the turnips are to be boiled with it, peel 
 and slice them, and put them into the pan half an hour 
 before the mutton is done; it must be again put on the 
 fire for a few minutes, as the turnips have stopped the 
 boiling; dress it upon a dish with the turnips round it, or 
 mash separate, and with caper or gherkin sauce; the broth 
 may be reduced for soup. 
 
 342. LEG OF MUTTON A LA BRETONNE.— 
 Choose one about six pounds weight, peel four cloves of 
 garlic, make an incision with the point of a knife in four 
 different parts around the knuckle, and place the garlic in 
 it; hang it up for a day or two, and then roast it for one 
 hour and a half. At the same time you have procured a 
 quart of small dry French haricots, which after well 
 washing put into a saucepan with half a gallon of water, 
 add about half an ounce of salt, the same of butter, set 
 them on the side of the fire to simmer for about three 
 hours or till tender, pour the liquor off into a basin, and 
 keep the haricots hot; peel and cut two large onions into 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 191 
 
 thin slices, put some of the fat of the dripping-pan into a 
 frying-pan, put in the onions, and fry a light brown, add 
 them to the haricots with the fat and gravy the mutton 
 has produced in roasting, season with salt and pepper, 
 toss them a little, and serve very hot on a large dish, put 
 the leg on it, with a frill of paper on the knuckle. In 
 case the leg is very fat, do not add all of the dripping to 
 the haricots. This, if well carved, is an excellent dish 
 for eight or nine persons; it is very much esteemed in 
 France, and is considered cheap food from the nourishment 
 afforded by the haricots, which can be purchased at six- 
 pence per quart. 
 
 Shoulder and loin may be dressed in the same way. 
 
 343. SHOULDER OF MUTTON is best if well 
 hung; the spit should be run in at the flap and brought 
 out at the knuckle ; this should not be basted in roasting, 
 but merely rubbed with a little butter; it is served occa¬ 
 sionally with sauce, No. 158. This is sometimes boiled 
 with onion sauce: or, as it is called, smothered in onions. 
 It is also good by having the bone extracted, and its place 
 filled with veal stuffing, and then put it on a trivet, in a 
 baking-dish, with sliced potatoes under, and baked more 
 or less in proportion to its size; one of six pounds will 
 take one hour and a half—or as follows: 
 
 Put a small shoulder of mutton in a deep saute-pan or 
 baking-dish, season with a little pepper and salt, cover 
 over with thin slices of fat bacon, then put in ten potatoes 
 peeled and quartered, and the same quantity of apples, 
 with half a pint of water, place in a moderate oven and 
 bake for two hours, dress upon your dish, with the 
 potatoes and apples round, skim all the fat from the gravy, 
 which pour over and serve; it requires a little oil or butter 
 over before baking. 
 
192 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 344. SHOULDER OF MUTTON, PROVINCIAL 
 FASHION.—Roast a fine shoulder of mutton; whilst 
 roasting, mince ten large onions very fine, put them into a 
 stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, pass them 
 ten minutes over a good fire, keeping it stirred, then add 
 a tablespoonful of flour, stir well in, and a pint of milk, 
 season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when the 
 onions are quite tender and the sauce rather thick, stir in 
 the yolks of two eggs, and take it off the fire; "when the 
 shoulder is done, spread the onions over the top, egg over, 
 cover with bread-crumbs, put in the oven ten minutes, 
 and salamander a light brown colour, dress upon your 
 dish, put the gravy from it in your stewpan, with a pat 
 of butter, with which you have mixed a little flour, boil 
 up, add a little scraped garlic, pour round the shoulder, 
 which serve. The shoulder may also be dressed in the 
 housewife’s method as directed for the leg. A little 
 browning may be added. 
 
 345. LOIN OF MUTTON.—Take off the skin, sepa¬ 
 rate the joints with a chopper; if a large size, cut the 
 chine-bone with a saw, so as to allow it to be carved in 
 smaller pieces, run a lark-spit from one extremity to the 
 other, and affix it to a larger spit, and roast it like the 
 haunch. A loin weighing six pounds will take one hour 
 to roast. 
 
 346. LEG OF MUTTON STEWED WITH VEGE¬ 
 TABLES.—Have a good leg, beat it a little with a rolling 
 pin, make an incision in the knuckle, in which put two 
 cloves of garlic, then put it into a stewpan, with a pound 
 of lean bacon cut in eight pieces, set over a moderate 
 fire half an hour, moving it now and then until becoming 
 a light brown colour, season with pepper and salt, add 
 twenty pieces of carrots of the same size as the bacon, 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 193 
 
 fifteen middling-sized onions, and when done add two 
 bay-leaves, two cloves, and two quarts of water, replace it 
 upon a moderate fire, moving round occasionally, stew 
 nearly three hours, dress upon your dish with the carrots 
 and onions dressed tastefully around, take off as much of 
 the fat from the gravy as possible, take out the bay-leaves 
 and pour the garniture round the mutton, which serve very 
 hot. It can be braised like No. 310. A few drops of 
 browning may be required. 
 
 347. NECK OF MUTTON.—This is a very recherche 
 dish, if off a good-sized sheep, and well hung; it must be 
 nicely trimmed, sawing the bones at the tips of the ribs, 
 which detach from the meat, folding the flap over; saw 
 off the chine-bone, and carefully detach the remainder of 
 the bone from the fillet; detach the skin from the upper 
 part, fix the flap under with a couple of skewers, run a 
 flat lark-spit from end to end, fix it to a larger one, cover 
 it with buttered paper, and roast like the haunch; if of 
 five pounds, nearly three quarters of an hour to one hour. 
 It should be served very hot, the plates and dish the 
 same, and not one minute before it is wanted: serve 
 gravy under. 
 
 348. BOILED NECK OF MUTTON.—Take one 
 with little fat upon it, divide the chops, taking care not to 
 cut the fillet, put it into a pan with cold water sufficient 
 to cover it, place in it one ounce of salt, one onion, and a 
 small bunch of parsley; boil it gently; when done, dish it 
 up, and serve it with either parsley and butter made from 
 the liquor in which it was boiled, caper or onion sauce, 
 mashed turnips separate. Proceed as under receipt with 
 the broth. 
 
 349. SHEEP’S HEAD.—Though this may be seen in 
 every part of London inhabited by the working classes, 
 
 o 
 
194 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 and may bo procured ready-cooked, I prefer always to 
 prepare it at home, and very good it is. Choose a fine 
 one, as fat as possible, and put it into a gallon of water 
 to disgorge for two hours; wash it well, saw it in two from 
 the top, take out the brain, cut away part of the uncovered 
 part of the skull, and also the ends of the jaws, wash it 
 well, put into the stewpan, with two onions, one carrot, 
 two turnips cut in slices, a little celery, four cloves, a 
 bouquet of four sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, one ounce 
 of salt, a quarter of an ounce of pepper, three quarts of 
 water; set on the fire; when near boiling, add half a tea¬ 
 cupful of pearl or Scotch barley; let it simmer for three 
 hours, or till tender, which try with a fork; take out vege¬ 
 tables, cut in dice, remove bouquet, skim off the fat, and 
 pour all into tureen. Or, lay the head on a dish, and serve 
 with either onion sauce over, parsley and butter, or any 
 sharp sauce; or egg and bread-crumb it over, put it in an 
 oven for half an hour till getting a nice yellow colour, and 
 serve with sharp sauce under. Or, with the brain, thus: 
 having boiled the brain for ten minutes in a little vinegar, 
 salt, and water, cut it in pieces, warm it in parsley and 
 butter, season it a little, and put it under the head and 
 serve. 
 
 350. SHEEP’S HEAD AND LIVER.—Boil half a 
 sheep’s liver for thirty minutes in a quart of water, cut it 
 into small dice, put two ounces of butter in the stewpan, 
 and set it on the fire, then add a tablespoonful of chopped 
 onions, cook it a few minutes, add the liver, season with 
 salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, a spoonful of flour, half-pint 
 of broth, stir when boiling, simmer for a few minutes, lay 
 on dish, and put the head over just as it is out of the 
 broth, or bread-crumb it, and put it in the oven. 
 
 LAMB may be obtained all tbe year round. There are two sorts, the 
 house and grass. The house lamb is in season jrom Christmas to April, after 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 195 
 
 which the grass; the latter has the most flavour, but the former is consi¬ 
 dered the most delicate. The same rules for cutting up should be observed 
 as in the sheep. The fore-quarter consists of a shoulder, neck, and breast 
 together; if cut up, the shoulder and ribs. The hind-quarter is the leg and 
 loin. The head and pluck consist of the liver, lights, heart, nut and melt, 
 as also the fry, which is the sweetbread, bits and skirts, and part of the 
 liver. The fore-quarter should be fresh, the hind-quarter should hang, it 
 should be of a pale colour and fat. The vein in the fore-quarter ought to be 
 blueish and firm; if yellow or green, it is very stale. To ascertain if the 
 hind-quarter is fresh, pass your finger under the kidney, and if there is a 
 faint smell it is not fresh. If there is but little flesh on the shoulder, it is 
 not fine lamb; those that have short wool I have found to be the best 
 flavoured. Nothing differs so much in flavour and goodness as this; much 
 depends upon the kind of pasture on which the ewe is fed; that which is 
 obtained when it is the dearest has but little flavour, and requires the addi¬ 
 tion of lemon and cayenne to make it palatable. 
 
 351. NECK OF LAMB A LA JARDINIERE.— 
 Plain roast the neck, as you would that of mutton; and 
 whilst it is roasting, cut one middling-sized carrot in 
 small dice, the same quantity of turnip, and thirty button 
 onions; wash all in cold water, put them in a small stew- 
 pan, with one ounce of butter and half a teaspoonful of 
 sugar, place on the fire till no liquid remains in the stew- 
 pan ; add to it a gill of brown sauce, half a one of broth, 
 add a small bouquet of parsley and bay-leaf; after once 
 boiling, set it to simmer on the corner of the stove, skim 
 off all the fat; when ready, taste if very palatable; it must 
 be a nice brown colour, and the sauce lightly adhere to 
 the back of the spoon; serve on the dish, place the neck 
 over; white sauce may be used instead of brown, only add 
 a spoonful of liaison when ready to serve. The sauce is 
 equally good with almost any kind of meat, game, and 
 poultry; it will often be referred to, therefore be particular 
 in making it; you can shape the vegetables in twenty dif¬ 
 ferent ways, by using either green peas, French beans, 
 
 o 2 
 
196 
 
 REMOVES.. 
 
 Brussels sprouts; sprue-grass may be added, when in 
 season, but should be boiled separately, and added just 
 previous to serving. 
 
 352. SADDLE OF LAMB, RUSSIAN FASFIION. 
 —Roast a small saddle of lamb, keeping it pale; having 
 had it covered with paper, take ten good-sized boiled 
 potatoes, mash them with about two ounces of butter, a 
 teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a table¬ 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little grated nutmeg; 
 mix all well together with a fork, adding half a gill of milk 
 and one egg; when cold, roll them into a long shape the 
 size of plover’s eggs, egg and bread-crumb twice, and fry 
 light coloured; dress the saddle, surround it with the 
 potatoes, make a sauce of melted butter and maitre-d’hotel 
 butter, No. 306, put in it, and pour it round, and serve. 
 All joints of lamb can be dressed thus. 
 
 353. LEG OR SHOULDER OF LAMB WITH 
 PEAS.—These must be plain roasted; when done, serve 
 with peas in the bottom of the dish, prepared as No. 174. 
 
 354. LEG OR SHOULDER WITH FRENCH 
 BEANS. — Plain roast as before; prepare beans as 
 directed. (See Vegetables.) 
 
 355. BOILED LEG OF LAMB WITH SPINACH. 
 —Procure a very small leg, and cut the end of the knuckle¬ 
 bone, tie it up in a cloth and place it in cold water, with 
 two ounces of salt; boil it gently according to size; when 
 done, remove the cloth, and dish it up with spinach under 
 it, prepared as directed. (See Vegetables.) 
 
 356. SHOULDER OF LAMB BRAISED.—Take 
 the blade bone from a shoulder of lamb, and have ready 
 ten long stripe of fat bacon, which season rather highly 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 197 
 
 with pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; 
 place the pieces, one after the other, in your larding needle, 
 which draw quickly through the fleshy part of the shoulder, 
 leaving the bacon in the meat; after having used all the 
 bacon, roll the meat round, and tie it up with a piece of 
 string ; then put it into a stewpan containing a quarter of 
 a pound of butter, over a slow fire, stirring it occasionally 
 until of a light golden colour, pour in a quart of water or 
 broth, and add forty button onions and a bunch of parsley; 
 let simmer very slowly until the onions are quite tender, 
 then take up the meat, pull off* the string, and dress it 
 upon a dish with the onions round; take the parsley out 
 of the liquor, carefully skim off all the fat, and reduce it 
 until forming a thinnish glaze, when pour it over the meat 
 and serve. Mushrooms may be added ten minutes before 
 sending to table. 
 
 357. BREAST OF LAMB BRAISED, BROILED.— 
 Saw off the breast from the ribs of lamb, leaving the neck 
 of sufficient size to roast, or for cutlets; then put two 
 onions, half a carrot, and the same of turnip, cut into thin 
 slices, in a stewpan with two bay-leaves, a few sprigs 
 of parsley and thyme, half an ounce of salt, and three 
 pints of water; lay in the breast, which let simmer until 
 tender, and the bones leave with facility; take it from 
 the stewpan, pull out all the bones, and press it between 
 two dishes; when cold, season with a little salt and 
 pepper, egg and bread-crumb it lightly over, and broil 
 gently (over a moderate fire) of a nice yellowish colour, 
 turning it very carefully; when sufficiently browned 
 upon one side, serve with plain gravy in the dish, and 
 mint sauce separately, or with stewed peas or any other 
 vegetable sauce; tomato sauce is likewise very good 
 served with it. 
 
198 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 858. LAMB’S HEAD.— See Sheep’s Head (No. 349). 
 This will take half the time to cook. 
 
 859. LAMB’S FRY.—Take about a pound and boil for 
 ten minutes in half a gallon of water, take it out and dry 
 on a cloth; have some fresh crumbs, mix with them half a 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper; egg the fry 
 lightly with a paste-brush, dip it in the crumbs, fry for five 
 minutes, serve very hot on a clean napkin in a dish, with 
 fried parsley over. 
 
 360. LAMB’S HEAD WITH HOLLANDAISE.— 
 If you want it very white, make stock as for sheep’s feet, 
 put it to stew, when done lay on dish with about twelve 
 new potatoes (boiled) round it, pour over some cream 
 sauce (No. 301), and serve. 
 
 361. LAMB’S HEAD, WITH BRAIN OR LIVER. 
 —Blanch the brain or liver, and mince them as for sheep’s 
 head, introducing only the yolk of an egg; mix with a 
 little milk, stir in quick, add a tablespoonful of chopped 
 parsley, the juice of half a lemon, lay it on the dish with 
 the head over, and serve. 
 
 PORK.—The flesh of no other animal depends so much upon feeding as 
 that of pork. The greatest care ought to be observed in feeding it, at least 
 twenty-one days previous to its being killed; it should fast for twenty-four 
 hours before. No animal is more used for nourishment, and none more in- 
 dispensable in the kitchen; employed either fresh or salt, all is useful, even 
 to its bristles and its blood; it is the superfluous riches of the farmer, and 
 helps to pay the rent of the cottager. It is cut up the same as the ox. The 
 fore-quarter is the fore-loin and spring; if it is a large pig, the sparerib may 
 be cut off. The hind-quarter is the leg and loin. There is also the head and 
 haslet (which is the liver, kidney, craw, and skirts), and also chitterlings, 
 which are cleansed for sausages and black puddings. For boiling or roasting 
 it should never be older than six months, and the leg must not weigh more 
 than from six to seven pounds. The short legged, thick-necked, and small¬ 
 headed pigs are the best breed, a cross from the Chinese. If fresh and young. 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 199 
 
 the flesh and fat should be white and firm, smooth and dry, and the lean 
 break if pinched between the fingers, or you can nip the skin with the nails ; 
 the contrary, if old and stale. 
 
 362. LEG OF PORK.—Choose the pork as described 
 at the commencement of this series; if a leg, one weigh¬ 
 ing about seven pounds; make an incision in the knuckle 
 near the thigh, into which put a quantity of sage and 
 onions, previously passed in butter, sew up with pack¬ 
 thread, score the rind of the pork in lines across, half an 
 inch apart, place upon a spit, running it in just undei the 
 rind, and bringing it out at the knuckle. If stuffed the 
 day previous to roasting, it will improve its flavour; roast 
 (if weighing seven pounds) about two hours and a half, 
 eleven pounds, three hours and a half, and serve with 
 apple sauce in a boat. 
 
 363. CHINE OF PORK.—Score it well, stuff it thick 
 with pork stuffing, roast it gently, and serve with apple 
 sauce. 
 
 364. SPARERIB OF PORK.— When spitted,rub some 
 flour over the outside, roast it before a cleai fiie, not too 
 strong, or cover it with paper; about ten minutes before 
 taking it up, throw some powdered sage over it, and froth 
 it up with some butter in a spoon, and serve with gravy 
 under. 
 
 365. LOIN OR NECK OF PORK A LA PIE- 
 MONTAISE.—The neck or loin must be plain roasted; 
 peel and cut four onions in dice, put them into a stew- 
 pan, with two ounces of butter, stir over the file until 
 rather brown, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, 
 add a good pint of broth, if any, or water, with an ounce 
 of glaze, boil ten minutes, add two tablespoonfuls ol 
 French mustard, with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, pour 
 
200 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 the sauce upon the dish, and dress your joint upon it, 
 serve with a little apple sauce separate in a boat. 
 
 366. LOIN OR NECK OF PORK, (Normandy 
 Fashion.) —Procure a neck or loin, put it in a common 
 earthen dish, having previously scored the rind, rub over 
 with a little oil, place about twenty potatoes, cut in halves 
 or in quarters, in the dish with the pork, ten onions 
 peeled, and twenty apples peeled and quartered, place in 
 a warm oven for an hour and a half or more, then dress 
 it upon your dish with the apples, onions, and potatoes 
 around, and serve. 
 
 367. BACON AND HAM. —Bacon-pigs are cut up differently 
 for haras, bacon, &c., but a pole-axe should never be used in killing them, as 
 it spoils the head. To be good, the fat must be firm, with a slight red tinge, 
 the lean a dark-red, and stick close to the bone ; the rind thin, if young ; if 
 old (should it be well fed it is sometimes better), it will be thick. For hams, 
 choose one short in the hock; run the knife close under the bone, when it 
 comes out, if not smeared, and has a pleasant smell, it is good. 
 
 36^. HAM.—This useful and popular dish, which is 
 equally a favourite in the palace and the cottage, may be 
 dressed in upwards of fifty different ways, with as many 
 different dishes, which are described in their place. Of 
 the English hams, the York and Westmoreland are the 
 best: they should be well soaked in water, placed in 
 plenty of cold water, and boiled gently for three or four 
 hours. If to serve hot, take the skin off, except from the 
 knuckle, which cut to fancy; trim the fat to a nice ap¬ 
 pearance, glaze, or throw some sifted raspings of bread, 
 mixed with a little chopped parsley. Serve where recom¬ 
 mended. 
 
 369. BACON.—A piece of good streaked bacon, not too 
 salt, should be put into cold water, and boiled for one 
 hour and a half, and served with broad beans, when in 
 season, round it, or any young peas. 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 201 
 
 370. SUCKING PIG is merely plain roasted, stuffed 
 with veal stuffing, but before putting it upon the spit it 
 requires to be floured and rubbed very dry, otherwise the 
 skin would not eat crisp: the usual method of serving it 
 is to cut off the head, and divide the body and head of the 
 pig in halves lengthwise, pour over some sauce made ot 
 the brains, and a little brown sauce, or of white melted 
 butter, nicely seasoned with salt, pepper, and sugar; serve 
 apple sauce separate in a boat, if approved of. 
 
 371. HIND QUARTER OF SUCKING PIG, (York 
 shire Fashion .)—Cut off the skin, cover with paper, and 
 roast before a quick fire about three-quarters of an hour; 
 ten minutes before being ready, remove the paper and 
 baste it; serve with gravy under, and mint sauce and 
 salad. 
 
 372. SALT PORK.—Pork is salted in the same manner 
 as described for beef, omitting the sal-prunella, but of 
 course it does not require so long a time: a leg weighing- 
 seven pounds would be well salted in a week, as also 
 would a hand and spring weighing about ten pounds, and 
 either would require two hours’ boiling, putting them in a 
 stewpan with plenty of cold water, and serving with 
 carrots and greens, and pease pudding. 
 
 373. PIG’S CHEEK, (A New Method .)—Procure a 
 pig’s cheek nicely pickled; boil well until it feels very 
 tender, tie half a pint of split peas in a cloth, and put them 
 into a stewpan of boiling water, boil about half an hour, 
 take them out, pass through a hair sieve, put them into a 
 stewpan with an ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt, 
 and four eggs, stir them over the fire until the eggs are 
 partially set, then spread it over the pig’s cheek, egg with a 
 paste-brush, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, place in the oven 
 ten minutes, brown it with the salamander, and serve. 
 
202 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 374. PICKLED PORK, (Belly Part .)—Choose a nice 
 streaked piece of about four pounds; it will take about 
 three-quarters of an hour boiling; serve, garnish with 
 greens round it. 
 
 375. HAND OF PORK.—Choose one not too salt; 
 boil it for one hour; serve as above. 
 
 VENISON.—-We have three sorts in this country. There are, the stag, or 
 red-deer, which is a native, and of which but few exist in a wild state, except 
 in the woods of Mr. Herbert, M.P. for Kerry, in the vicinity of the lakes of 
 Killarney, where they are most numerous. The second is the fallow deer, 
 which is the common sort, introduced into this country by James the First, 
 and of which we have great numbers in noblemen’s parks; and the third is 
 the roebuck deer, which is found only in the north of Scotland. Of the first, 
 it is rare that any parts of it come to London, nor can I say that it is 
 desirable, the flavour being strong, and having no fat ; yet a good steak, 
 broiled over the turf cinders in the Gap of Dunlow, with a good appetite as 
 a sauce, is not bad, as Mr. B. says. But the fallow deer, when fed on good 
 herbage, is the finest meat, the most delicate flavour, and most nourishing 
 that can be put on the table ; a fine haunch of this, well covered with fat, 
 and properly and artistically roasted, ought certainly to be the height of an 
 epicure’s desire. Should you ever have one made a present to you, be careful 
 in following the receipt; but should you be obliged to purchase, go yourself 
 to Groves’s and choose one, or let your husband call at Dever’s, in Comhill, 
 or Rich’s, in Ludgate-hill, and you will be able to obtain some of the finest to 
 be had in this country, as they are selected from the best herds. The third, 
 the roebuck, is not often got in London ; it is a fine flavour, tender, but 
 wants fat: when cooked, it should always be covered with mutton fat. 
 
 Venison is cut up the same as mutton, with the exception of the saddle, 
 which is seldom or never cut; the flesh should be dark, fine-grained and firm, 
 and a good coating of fat on the back. It should be well hung and kept in a 
 dry, cold place. By running a skewer in along the bone, you will know when 
 it is fit for eating; examine it carefully every morning to cut out any fly-blows. 
 
 376. HAUNCH OF VENISON.—A good haunch of 
 venison, weighing from about twenty to twenty-five pounds, 
 will take from three to four hours’ roasting, before a good 
 solid fire. Trim the haunch, by cutting off part of the 
 knuckle, and sawing off the chine-bone; fold the flap over, 
 then envelope it in a flour-and-water paste rather stiff, and 
 an inch thick; tie it up in strong paper, four sheets in 
 
REMOVES. 
 
 203 
 
 thickness, place it in your cradle spit so that it will turn 
 quite even ; place it at first very close to the fire, until 
 the paste is well crusted, pouring a few ladlefuls of hot 
 dripping over occasionally to prevent the paper catching 
 fire; then put it rather further from the fire, which must 
 he quite clear, solid, and have sufficient frontage to throw 
 the same heat on every part of the venison. When it has 
 roasted the above time, take it up, remove it from the paste 
 and paper, run a thin skewer into the thickest part, to 
 ascertain if done; if it resists the skewer, it is not done, 
 and must be tied up and put down again ; but if the fire 
 is good, that time will sufficiently cook it; glaze the top 
 well, salamander until a little brown, put a frill upon the 
 knuckle, and serve very hot, with strong gravy and plenty 
 of French beans separate.* 
 
 377. NECK OF VENISON should be cut like a neck 
 of mutton, taking the breast off, leaving the neck about 
 nine inches wide; detach the flesh from the chine-bone, 
 and saw it off, leaving only the cutlet-bones; thens pass 
 a lark spit through it, cover it with paste and paper, the 
 same as the haunch, and fix on spit and roast, if about 
 eight pounds, for two hours, before a good fire. 
 
 When venison is plentiful M. Soyer has invented a new joint, called the 
 saddle-back, which is the finest part of the deer, and would have been worthy 
 of the most distinguished position in the banquet of Anacreon. (See ' Gas¬ 
 tronomic Regenerator,’) 
 
 Fawns, when very young, are not good food ; but these should be treated 
 in every way Klee hare, giving them a little more seasoning. They are, how¬ 
 ever, better when a little larger, and divided in quarters, and dressed like lamb. 
 
 Kid, if young, should be treated like rabbits, but if older, may be divided 
 and prepared as lamb. They are considered extremely nutritious, and the 
 pure gravy, or ozmazome, from them is excellent for invalids. 
 
 * A very handsome and convenient dish has latterly been invented by 
 Messrs. Shaw and Fisher, of Edinburgh, for venison, by which the gravy 
 coming from the joint can be served without the fat. 
 
204 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 Tuts is the best and. most delicious of the various matters with which man 
 furnishes himself as food; although containing but little nourishment, it gives 
 a delightful variety to our repast: from the sparrow to the turkey, we find 
 everywhere, in this numerous class, that which gives a meal equally as good 
 for the invalid as the robust. 
 
 Increasing every day in luxuries, we have arrived at a point unknown even 
 to Lucullus; we are not contented with the beautiful qualities which Nature 
 gives this species, but, under pretence of improving them, we not only de¬ 
 prive them of their liberty by keeping them in solitude and in darkness, but 
 force them to eat their food, and thus bring them to a degree of fatness which 
 Nature never intended. Even the bird which saved the capitol of Rome is 
 treated with still greater indignity,—thrust into warm ovens, and nearly 
 baked alive to produce those beautiful and delicious livers so well known to 
 gourmets.* 
 
 In London the poultry and game are sent in so nicely prepared for cooking, 
 that any remark upon the method of killing, plucking, and drawing it, would 
 appear almost unnecessary; but remembering the manner that I have seen 
 poultry and game mutilated in some parts of the country, I have been in¬ 
 duced to give the following simple directions. 
 
 The Best Way of Killing Poultry .—Take the bird by the neck, place 
 the thumb of the right hand just at the back of the head, close the head in 
 your hand, your left hand holding the bird, then press your thumb down 
 hard and pull the head and neck contrariwise ; the neck will break in¬ 
 stantaneously, and the bird will be quite dead in a few seconds: then hang it 
 a short time by the legs for the blood to flow into the head, which renders 
 the flesh much whiter. In France they are usually killed by cutting the 
 throat close to the head; both methods are good with regard to the whiteness 
 of the flesh, but I prefer the English method, not being so barbarous. 
 
 To Pluck either Game or Poultry .—Lay the bird upon a board with its head 
 towards you, and pull the feathers away from you, in the direction they lie; 
 many persons pull out the feathers the contrary way, by which means they 
 are likely to tear the skin, and very much disfigure the bird for the table. 
 
 * Foie gras de Strasbourg. 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 205 
 
 To Draw Poultry .—After it is well plucked, make a long incision at the back 
 of the neck, take out the thin skin from under the outer containing the crop, 
 cut the neck off close to the body of the bird, but leave the neck skin a good 
 length, make another incision under the tail just large enough for the 
 gizzard to pass through, no larger; then put your finger into the bird, and 
 remove the crop, then loosen and detach all the intestines, taking care not to 
 break the gall bladder, squeeze the body of the bird, so as to force out the 
 whole of them at the tail; it is then ready for trussing, the method of doing 
 which will be given in the various Receipts throughout this series. 
 
 The above method of drawing poultry is equally applicable to game. 
 
 TURKEY.—The flesh of this bird depends greatly upon its feeding ; it 
 might be made much more valuable for table if proper attention were paid to 
 it. A young one should have his legs black and smooth, and spurs short, 
 his eyes fresh and the feet limber. 
 
 It is singular that this bird should take its name from a country in which 
 it was never seen ; in other countries in Europe it is called the Indian cock, 
 because the West Indies, on the first discovery of America by Columbus, was 
 supposed to be part of the continent of India ; and this bird, being brought 
 over on the first voyage, it was thus named. By many it is supposed to 
 have been introduced by the Jesuits in Spain and Portugal, and it is pro¬ 
 bable they were the first who domesticated it, and it is thus called a Je$uit in 
 many parts of Europe. I have seen it stated that it was known to the Romans 
 and was served at the marriage of Charlemagne. Prom my researches I 
 rather think it is confounded with the pheasant. It has more flavour than 
 any other of our domestic birds, and is, consequently, held in higher estima¬ 
 tion, and commands a higher price. Do not fear these long receipts, as each 
 one contains several. 
 
 378. PLAIN ROASTED TURKEY, WITH SAU¬ 
 SAGES.—This well-known dish, which has the joyous 
 recollection of Christmas attached to it, and its well-known 
 cognomen of ee an alderman in chains,” brings to our 
 mind’s eye the famed hospitality of this mighty city. The 
 following is my plan of cooking it. It must be first trussed 
 as follows:—Having first emptied it, break the leg-bone 
 close to the foot, and draw out the sinews from the thigh, 
 cut off' the neck close to the back, leaving the skin long; 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 206 
 
 wipe the inside with a wet cloth, cut the breast-hone 
 through on each side close to the back, and draw the legs 
 close up; fold a cloth up several times, place it on the 
 breast, and beat it down until it lies flat; put a skewer in 
 the joint of the wing, and another through the middle of 
 the leg and body; one through the small part of the leg 
 and body, close to the side bones, and another through the 
 extremity of the two legs. The liver and gizzard should 
 be placed between the pinions of the wings, and the 
 points turned on the back. When thus trussed, singe all 
 the hair off that may remain, take about one pound of 
 stuffing (see Receipt), and put it under the skin at the 
 neck, tie the skin under, but not too tight, or it may burst 
 in roasting; put it on to a small-sized spit, and fasten it 
 with a holdfast, or hang it neck downwards from a bottle- 
 jack; put it about eighteen inches from a good roasting 
 fire, let it turn about ten minutes; when the skin is firm 
 and dry, press into the bowl of a wooden spoon, so that 
 it sticks, about one ounce of butter, and rub the turkey 
 all over with it: when all melted, remove the turkey eight 
 inches further from the fire. One of about six pounds 
 will take two hours to roast, without pouring any fat over 
 it. In case your fire is too fierce, and likely to break 
 the skin, draw it back still more: it will, with proper 
 care, be of a golden colour. I do not object to the 
 gizzard being placed under the wing when roasting, but 
 never the liver, which I cook in the dripping-pan, as the 
 gravy which would run from it would spoil the colour of 
 the breast. When done, remove it, cut the strings, lay 
 it on your dish, and pour under half a pint of good brown 
 gravy, or make some with glaze. Or, whilst the bird is 
 roasting, butter the bottom of a small stewpan, pick and 
 slice two onions, lav them at the bottom, cut the neck 
 in small pieces, add half a spoonful of salt, a quarter 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 207 
 
 ditto of pepper, a little turnip, one clove; set on a slow 
 fire till the onions are of a brown colour, then add a pint 
 of water; let it simmer for nearly one hour, then pass it 
 through a sieve into a basin, skim off the fat, return the 
 gravy again into a stewpan, give it a boil, and when the 
 turkey is ready to send to table, pour it under; add a 
 little beef or veal, if handy, to the gravy, if you require 
 much. 
 
 This plan of roasting is adapted for all birds, and all 
 my receipts for plain roasting of poultry will refer to this, 
 with the alteration of the time which each takes to cook. 
 
 Sausages I seldom broil; I prick them with a needle, 
 rub the bottom of the frying-pan with a little butter, put 
 twelve sausages in, and set it on a slow fire, and fry gently 
 for about fifteen minutes, turning them when required (by 
 this plan they will not burst), and serve very hot round 
 the turkey, or on a separate dish of smoking hot masl^d 
 potatoes. To vary the gravy, I have tried the follor^g 
 plan: take off the fat which is in the frying-pan into a 
 basin, then add the brown gravy, mix a good teaspoonful 
 of arrowroot in a cup with a wineglassful of cold water, 
 pour in the pan, boil a few minutes, pass it through a 
 sieve, and serve with the turkey. The gravy this way is 
 excellent. 
 
 379. TURKEY WITH FLAT SAUSAGE CAKE. 
 —Roast as before; fry thirty oval flat sausages (see 
 Receipt), the same quantity of the same-sized pieces of 
 bacon, a quarter of an inch thick; make a border of 
 mashed potatoes about the size of a finger, one inch 
 inside the edge of the dish, dress your sausages and 
 bacon on it as a crown alternately, put your turkey in the 
 middle, and gravy over, or glaze, if at hand. Plain boiled 
 tongue may, of course, be served with the turkey, or 
 
208 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 separate on a dish of greens. If any remains of tongue 
 from a previous day, it may be served instead of the sau¬ 
 sages, cut the same shape as sausages, and warmed in a 
 pan; if so, put a nice green Brussels sprout between each 
 piece. Bread sauce is generally served with this dish; 
 for my own part I never eat it. 
 
 Boiled Turkey.— This is a dish T rarely have, as I never could relish it 
 boiled as it generally is, by putting it into that pure and chaste element 
 water, into which has been thrown some salt, the quantity of which differs 
 as much as the individuals that throw it in. I often reflect to myself, why 
 should this innocent and well-brought up bird have its remains condemned 
 to this watery bubbling inquisition, especially when alive it has the greatest 
 horror of this temperate fluid ; it is really for want of reflection that such 
 mistakes occur: the flavour of a roasted turkey, hot or cold, is as superior 
 to the boiled as it is possible to be. But yet there is a kind of boiling that 
 can be adopted, and which I sometimes practise : it makes a nice palatable 
 dish, and the broth can be used for other purposes. I think, if you try it, 
 yd' will never again resort to that bubbling system of salt and water. I 
 
 pr 1 ^ ^d as follows :— 
 
 St) 
 
 3^0. BOILED BRAISED TURKEY.—Truss it thus: 
 cut the neck, leaving the skin on; cut the legs off; then 
 run the middle finger into the inside, raise the skin of the 
 legs, and put them under the apron of the turkey, put the 
 liver and gizzard in the pinions, turn the small end of 
 the pinions on the back, run a packing needle with string 
 through the joint of the wing and middle joint of the leg, 
 and through the body, and out at the opposite leg and 
 wing, bring it round and tie it on the back, then run the 
 needle and string through the ends of the legs or drum¬ 
 stick, press it through the back, and tie strongly; it is 
 then ready. When the turkey is trussed, then stuff it; and 
 if intended to have oyster sauce with it, chop about two 
 dozen of oysters into small dice and mix them with the 
 stuffing, and place inside the breast. Then rub the breast 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 209 
 
 with half a lemon, and put it into a two-gallon pan, and 
 cover it with cold water, to which are added two ounces of 
 butter, one ounce of salt, four onions, a stick of celery, one 
 carrot, two turnips sliced, a large bouquet of parsley, two 
 bay leaves, two sprigs of thyme; set it on the fire, when 
 beginning to boil skim it, let it simmer two hours, or more 
 if large; try the breast with a needle, if it goes in and out 
 easily it is done; take it out and set it on a dish to drain 
 remove the string, serve on a fresh dish with a pint of good 
 thick oyster sauce over it. By omitting the oysters in stnfx- 
 y°u may serve the turkey with celery sauce, Jeru¬ 
 salem sauce, tomato ditto, mushroom ditto, or good parsley 
 and butter; and, as an accompaniment, a piece of about 
 two pounds of nice streaked bacon, which has been boiled 
 with the turkey, and from which you have removed the 
 skin, and serve on some greens, or Brussels sprouts, over 
 which you have thrown a little salt, pepper, and two 
 
 ounces of oiled butter. You see, dear-, that this dir/ e 
 
 can be varied without much expense and trouble; obsen^ 
 that this way, the broth is good for soup the same da y, 
 by the addition of two pounds of veal cut in small pieces^ 
 a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, one onion, one blade 5 
 of mace, one leek, a wineglass of water; put it into a 
 separate stewpan, stew on fire till forming a white glaze, 
 then add it to the turkey when on the point of boilino-- 
 when done, skim off all fat, pass it through a tammy or 
 cloth; you may use it for any clear soup by adding a little 
 brown gravy or colouring, and also for any kind of puree; 
 or, by reducing it a little, make white or brown sauce' 
 adding to the last the proper colour. 
 
 I must observe, that this will be almost impracticable when you have a 
 party; the only plan would be to get the turkey done one hour before you 
 require it, keeping it hot with its breast in some of the stock ; but, as the 
 broth will keep well in small quantities, it can be reserved for the next day. 
 
 P 
 
210 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 That is my plan of boiling, but the following is my new way of giving 
 the flavour of vegetables to all poultry, which is a decided improvement. 
 The aroma from the bird when the cover is removed is quite inviting, and 
 the appearance of it, which is as white as alabaster, and cuts also full of 
 juice : I call it— 
 
 381 . ROAST BRAISED TURKEY.—Peel and wash 
 two onions, one carrot, one turnip, cut them in thin slices, 
 also a little celery, a few sprigs of parsley, two bay-leaves, 
 lay three sheets of paper on the table, spread your vege¬ 
 tables, and pour over them two or three tablespoonfuls of 
 oil; have your turkey, or poularde, trussed the same as for 
 boiling; cut a few slices of lemon, which you place on 
 the breast to keep it white, then cover with thin slices of 
 bacon, and place the back of the bird on the vegetables; tie 
 the paper round with string, then pass the spit and set it 
 before the fire; pour plenty of fat over to moisten the 
 paper and prevent it from burning, roast three hours at 
 a ore tty good distance from the fire: capons will take two 
 hd irs, poulardes one hour and a half, fowls one hour, and 
 chickens half an hour. This way it may be served with 
 almost any sauce or garniture, as stewed peas, oyster sauce, 
 jardiniere, stewed celery, cauliflower, stewed cucumbers, 
 Jerusalem artichokes, which should be turned in the shape 
 of a pear: these should be dished on a border of mashed 
 potatoes; that is, an artichoke and a Brussels sprout 
 alternately, or a small piece of white cauliflower, and a 
 small bunch of green asparagus, or stewed peas, or stewed 
 celery of two inches long, never more, or any other vege¬ 
 table according to season, which taste or fancy may dic¬ 
 tate. When I want to serve them with brown garniture 
 or sauce, I remove the paper and vegetables twenty 
 minutes before it is done, and give it a light golden colour, 
 then I serve it with either a ragout financier, or mushroom, 
 or English truffle. I also often stulf it thus: I put two 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 211 
 
 pounds of sausage meat in a basin with a little grated 
 nutmeg; I then take two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, 
 put them in a saute-pan with a little butter, and let them 
 do for two minutes, which add to the meat, also two eggs 
 well beaten up, and a quarter of a pint of white sauce, if at 
 hand, and fifteen fine roasted chesnuts; add this to the 
 stuffing, and fill the bird as usual, not too full at the breast; 
 roast as above, giving half an hour longer for the force¬ 
 meat, put a quait of demiglaze and a glass of sherry in a 
 stewpan, reduce it to a pint and a half, add in it fifty but¬ 
 ton onions previously stewed, and twenty-five roasted 
 chesnuts; sauce under. 
 
 382 TURKEY, IF OLD.-The French stew it exactly 
 like the ribs of beef, the receipt of which you have; but 
 as this is a large “piece de resistance,” I think I had 
 better give it to you in full as I do it:-Put a quarter 
 ot a pound of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan, 
 such as will conveniently hold it; cut one pound of lean 
 bacon m ten or twelve pieces for a few minutes in 
 the pan on the fire, then add your turkey trussed as for 
 boiling, breast downwards; set it on a moderate fire for 
 one hour, and until it is a nice colour; add two table¬ 
 spoonfuls of flour, and stir well round until it forms a 
 roux, then add two quarts of water or broth; when vou 
 have it on the point of boiling, add fifty pieces of carrot 
 the size of walnuts, the like of turnip, ten button onions, a 
 good bouquet of sprigs of thyme, two bay-leaves, and ten of 
 parsley, a small glass of rum, a clove, a piece of garlic, and 
 let it stew gently for four hours. If you use water, season 
 m proportion. Take the turkey out, and put the vege¬ 
 tables and sauce in a smaller stewpan, which ought to be 
 nearly full; let it simmer on the corner of the fire, so that 
 the fat rises and may be removed, and reduce it to a demi- 
 
 P 2 
 
212 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 glaze, dish up the turkey and serve with the sauce over 
 it; small new potatoes, about twenty, when in season, may 
 be added to the sauce, or roasted chesnuts. The remains 
 are excellent when cold, or will warm again with the addi¬ 
 tion of a little broth or water. The series of Entrees will 
 contain the dishes made from the remnants of the fore¬ 
 going receipts. 
 
 FOWLS, in a general sense, mean all kinds of poultry, but, in a limited 
 view, one species of bird, which is exceedingly common in all parts of Europe; 
 there is an amazing number of kinds of this species produced by crossing the 
 breed ; so great attention having been bestowed upon this subject of late 
 years, it is quite impossible to say which is the best. They are not originally 
 natives of this island, but were found here by the Romans, having probably 
 been introduced by the Phoenicians. We distinguish this kind in cookery, 
 as the chicken, capon, pullet, cock, and hen. Chickens from their age 
 cannot be otherwise than tender; capons should have a fat vein under the 
 wing, thick belly and rump, comb short and pale, spurs short and blunt, and 
 legs smooth. Pullets are best in the spring, just before they begin to lay. 
 Cocks should have their spurs short, legs smooth, and comb short, smooth, 
 and a bright colour.* Hens, legs and comb smooth, and full breast. Black 
 legs are best for roasting and entrees, and white for boiling. 
 
 For preparing them for table, M. Soyer has invented a plan :—by cutting 
 the sinews of the bird, it not only appears fuller and plumper when cooked, 
 as the heat is liable to contract the sinews, but it also affords facility for 
 carving when the sinews are divided; they are trussed in the usual way, 
 only using string instead of skewers. The following is the ordinary plan of 
 trussing— 
 
 For Roasting .—Having emptied the fowl and cleaned the gizzard, cut the 
 skin of the wings, and put the gizzard and liver through it, and turn the 
 pinion under; put a skewer through the first joint of the pinion and the 
 body, coming out at the opposite side, and bring the middle of the leg close 
 up to it; run a skewer through the middle of both legs and body, and 
 another through the drumstick and side-bone, and one through the skins of 
 the feet, the nails of which must be cut off. 
 
 * In London, these are removed by the poulterer before being sold. 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 213 
 
 For Boiling .—Prepare as before; put the finger in the inside, and raise 
 the skin of the legs • cut a hole in the top of the skin, and put the legs 
 under ; put the gizzard and liver in the pinions, and run a skewer through 
 the first joint; draw the leg close up, and run a skewer through the middle 
 of the legs and the body, tie a string on the tops of the legs to keep them in 
 their proper place. 
 
 383. POULARDS, CAPONS, AND FOWLS.—These 
 are the best at nine and ten months old; if twelve or four¬ 
 teen, they are only fit to be stewed like the turkey, No. 382, 
 but in less time, or boiled in broth or sauces, but when 
 young serve as boiled turkey, No. 380. Roast (No. 378) 
 less time, but take care to do it well, as white meat with 
 red gravy in it is unbearable. 
 
 384. CAPON or POULARD, ROASTED.—Prepare 
 it as you would a turkey, and it may be stuffed with the 
 same kind of stuffing, tie over the breast a large slice o£ 
 fat bacon, about a quarter of an inch thick, and two shedlo 
 of paper; ten minutes before being done, remove the paie f- 
 and bacon, dredge it, and put a piece of butter on it, so 
 that it is of a nice colour, dish it up very hot with a gravy 
 like the roast turkey. 
 
 385. CAPON BOILED.—The same as the turkey. 
 
 386. CAPON or POULARD A L’ESTRAGON.—I 
 have been told many fanciful epicures idolize this dish. 
 The bird should be trussed for boiling. Rub the breast with 
 half a lemon, tie over it some thin slices of bacon, cover 
 the bottom of a small stewpan with thin slices of the same, 
 and a few trimmings of either beef, veal, or lamb, two 
 onions, a little carrot, turnip and celery, two bay-leaves, 
 one sprig of thyme, a glass of sherry, two quarts of water, 
 season lightly with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, simmer 
 about one hour and a quarter, keeping continually a little 
 
214 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 fire on the lid, strain three parts of the gravy into a small 
 basin, skim off the fat, and pass through a tammy into a 
 small stewpan, add a drop of gravy or colouring to give it 
 a nice brown colour, boil a few minutes longer, and put 
 about forty tarragon leaves; wash, and put it in the boil¬ 
 ing gravy, with a tablespoonful of good French vinegar, 
 and pour over the capon when you serve it; it is an im¬ 
 provement to clarify the gravy. All kinds of fowls and 
 chickens are continually cooked in this manner in France. 
 They are also served with rice. 
 
 387. POULARD WITH RICE.—Having been braised 
 as before, have a quarter of a pound of good rice washed, 
 put in a stewpan, with a pint of broth, three spoonfuls of 
 the capon’s fat from the stewpan, a bouquet of parsley, let 
 it simmer until it is tender; take the parsley out, add two 
 ounces of butter, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, stir it round, 
 
 form it into a delicate pulpy paste; lay some of it on a 
 <3oc]h with the capon on it, put the remainder round it, 
 making it smooth with a knife, leaving the breast unco¬ 
 vered; salamander the rice, and serve clear gravy separate; 
 sometimes I add a little curry powder in the gravy, and 
 egg and bread-crumb the rice, and salamander, or make 
 the rice yellow with curry powder, and make a border of 
 half eggs round the dish; it looks well, and that is a great 
 thing; and one fowl done thus will often go as far as two 
 plain. It is generally the custom with us to send either 
 ham, tongue, or bacon, as an accompaniment to poultry. 
 I endeavour to vary it as much as possible; the following 
 is one of my receipts. 
 
 388. POULARDS or CAPONS, with Quenelles and 
 Tongue. —When you are either roasting or braising, you 
 make about twenty quenelles with tablespoons, out of 
 forcemeat of veal. Proceed and cook the same; when 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 •215 
 
 done, maks a roll of mashed potatoes, which put round 
 the dish you intend to serve it in; have ready cut from a 
 cold tongue as many pieces of the shape of the quenelles, 
 warm gently in a little gravy, then put the quenelles on 
 the border, having cut a piece off the end so that they 
 may stand properly, with a piece of tongue between each, 
 put the fowl in the centre; have ready made a quart of a 
 new white sauce, which pour over the fowl and quenelles; 
 glaze the tongue and serve very hot. I found this dish 
 at first rather complicated, but now my cook can do it 
 well without my assistance. It looks and eats well, but 
 is only adapted for a dinner of importance. 
 
 389. THE SAME WITH CUCUMBERS.—Cut about 
 four nice fresh cucumbers into lengths of two inches, peel 
 and divide them down the middle, take the seedy part 
 out, trim the comers, put about thirty pieces of them into 
 a stewpan,with two ounces of butter, a spoonful of eschalot, 
 and the same of sugar; lay them on a very slow fire for 
 half an hour, or till tender; lay them on a border of mashed 
 potatoes, with quenelles as above, and place the tongue 
 between; in another stewpan put a little butter, and 
 the trimmings of the cucumbers, then add a quart of 
 white sauce, boil and pass through a tammy, adding a 
 little sugar, or other seasoning if required, and finish w r ith 
 half a gill of good cream sauce over all except the tongue, 
 which glaze. Cauliflower, sprue grass, Jerusalem arti¬ 
 chokes, or Brussels sprouts, like the turkey, make excel¬ 
 lent and inviting dishes. 
 
 390. CAPON WITH YOUNG CARROTS.—Scrape 
 two bunches of young carrots, keep them in their original 
 shape as much as possible, wash them and dry on a cloth; 
 put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little 
 
216 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 sugar, salt, and pepper, set it on the fire for ten minutes, 
 moving them now and then, add a quart of white broth, 
 simmer gently until very tender and it comes to a demi- 
 glaze; dish the carrots on a border of potatoes, the points 
 towards the centre, cook some small button onions the 
 same way, but very white, and dress them alternately; 
 mix the two gravies together with a quart of demi-glaze, 
 set it on the lire, boil fast, skim it, when forming a bright 
 thinnisli sauce pour it over the capon and vegetables; 
 being served with a brown sauce, it ought to be roasted 
 brown like turkey (No. 378); turnips may also be added 
 instead of carrots, or both. 
 
 391. FOWLS, ITALIAN WAY.—Prepare and cook 
 the fowls as above, or re-warm some that may be left, cut 
 the remains of a tongue into pieces one inch long and one 
 quarter in thickness, cut three times the quantity of plain 
 boiled macaroni the same way, with a few mushrooms, 
 and add the whites of four eggs to it, with some broth and 
 half a pint of white sauce; when boiling, add a quarter of 
 a pound of grated Parmesan, and half that of Gruyere, 
 shake the stewpan so that the contents are well mixed, 
 add a little salt and cayenne, put fowl on dish, sauce over 
 and serve: or put the macaroni on the dish, mix bread¬ 
 crumbs and a little grated cheese together and sprinkle 
 over it, put it into the oven until it is a yellow-brown 
 colour, put the fowl on it very hot, and serve with a little 
 white sauce over, and a strong gravy separate. 
 
 392. FOWL A L’E CAUL ATE.—Roast and braise 
 two nice fowls, and boil a fine salted tongue, which trim 
 so as to be able to stand it in a dish, place it in the middle 
 in a slanting position, place two fine heads of cauliflower 
 at each end and make a pint of cream sauce, pour over 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 217 
 
 the fowl and brocoli; glaze the tongue, and serve. Fowls 
 may be dressed in any of the ways before described, and 
 dished up thus. 
 
 GEESE.—We have now arrived at your favourite dish, or, as your better- 
 half said, on your return home from this, “ What is better than a goose 
 stuffed with sage and onion ?” Of course many persons are of his idea, and 
 I must say that I for one enjoy them occasionally when in season; yes, indeed, 
 I do, and with the original apple-sauce, too ; this last addition to our national 
 cookery must have been conferred on it by the Germans, who eat sweets or 
 s tewed fruit with almost every dish; or, perhaps, from William the Conqueror, 
 who left his land of apples to visit and conquer our shores ; but never mind 
 to whom we are indebted for this bizarre culinary mixture, I sincerely forgive 
 them, and intend to have one for dinner to-day, which I shall have cooked 
 as follows : but I must first tell you how they should be chosen. The flesh 
 should be of a fine pink colour, and the liver pale, the bill and foot yellow, 
 and no hairs, or but few, on the body; the contrary will be observed in an 
 old one, which will have the feet and bill red. 
 
 393. GOOSE {to truss .)—Having well picked the goose, 
 cut the feet off at the joint, and the pinion at the first 
 joint; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving all the 
 skin you can; pull out the throat, and tie a knot at the 
 end; put your middle finger in at the breast, loosen the 
 liver, &c.; cut it close to the rump, and draw out all the 
 inside except the soal,* wipe it well, and beat the breast¬ 
 bone flat; put a skewer in the wings, and draw the legs 
 close up, running a skewer through the middle of both legs 
 and body; draw the small of the leg close down to the 
 side-bone, and run a skewer through; make a hole in the 
 skin large enough to admit the croupion, and when stuffed 
 place it through it, as it holds the stuffing better. For the 
 giblets which have been taken out, see Giblet Pie. 
 
 * This word is not found in dictionaries, but is used by poulterers to denote 
 that small piece of the lungs which is left in the bird. 
 
218 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 394. ROAST GOOSE.—Peel and cut in rather small 
 dice six middle-sized onions, put in a pan, with two 
 ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto 
 of pepper, a little grated nutmeg and sugar, six leaves of 
 fresh sage chopped fine, put on fire, stir with wooden 
 spoon till in pulp, then have the goose ready trussed, and 
 stuff it whilst hot, tie the skin of the neck to the back, 
 pass the spit through, and roast two hours before a mode¬ 
 rate fire; baste the same as turkey (No. 369), give a nice 
 yellow colour, remove it from the spit, take off the string, 
 and serve with half a pint of good brown gravy under, and 
 apple-sauce in a boat. 
 
 395. THE SAME, WITH ANOTHER STUFFING. 
 ■—I have tried it with the liver chopped and mixed with 
 the onions; I also at times add two cold potatoes cut in 
 dice, and a spoonful of boiled rice added to the former 
 stuffing, and occasionally bread-crumbs; it Removes the 
 richness of the fat, and renders it more palatable and 
 digestive; and I also sometimes add twenty chesnuts cut 
 into dice. The giblets should be stewed or made into 
 pies. (See Receipt.) Where there is no gravy, broth, 
 or glaze, still gravy is wanted, therefore put into the drip¬ 
 ping-pan a teaspoonful of salt, half a pint of water, and 
 dredge a little flour on it; when the bird is done, pour the 
 contents of the pan into a cup, remove the fat, pour over 
 the back of the bird, which serve in a very hot dish as 
 soon as taken from the fire. 
 
 396. GOOSE ROASTED (another icay ).—Having the 
 goose ready the day previously to using, take three cloves 
 of garlic, which cut into four pieces each, and place inside 
 the goose, and stuff it as follows: take four apples, four 
 onions, four leaves of sage not broken, four leaves of 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 219 
 
 lemon-thyme not broken, and boil in a stewpan with suf¬ 
 ficient water to cover them; w T hen done, pulp them through 
 a sieve, removing the sage and thyme, then add sufficient 
 pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry 
 without sticking to the hand, add pepper and salt, and 
 stuff the bird, having previously removed the garlic, tie the 
 neck and rump, and spit it, paper the breast, which' remove 
 after it has been at the fire for twenty minutes; when done, 
 serve it plain with a thickened gravy. 
 
 397. GOOSE STEWED.—If an old one, stew it with 
 vegetables, as duck (No. 401), only give it more time to 
 cook. On the Continent they are dressed in different 
 ways, but which are too complicated for our kitchens. 
 
 398. GOOSE GIBLETS, RAGOUT OF, OR OF 
 TURKEY.—Put them into half a gallon of warm water 
 to disgorge for a few hours, then dry them on a cloth, cut 
 into pieces not too small, put into a stewpan a quarter of 
 a pound of good lean bacon, with two ounces of butter* 
 when a little brown, add your giblets, and fry for twentj 
 minutes longer, stirring it together; add a little flour, a 
 good bouquet of parsley, twenty button onions, same 
 number of pieces of carrot and turnip, two saltspoonfuls of 
 salt, the same of sugar, stew together one hour or more until 
 tender, skim off the fat, dish up the meat, reduce the salt 
 if required, take bouquet out, and sauce over the giblets; 
 both goose and turkey giblets take the same time to stew. 
 If any remaining they will make a capital pie or pudding, 
 or merely w r arm up with broth or water, and a little flour 
 
 399. PRESERVED GOOSE for the Farm or Country 
 House .—In case you have more geese in condition and 
 season than what you consume, kill and cut them up into 
 pieces, so that there shall be as little flesh left on the car- 
 
220 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 case as possible, and bone the leg; rub into each piece 
 with your fingers some salt, in which you have mixed a 
 little saltpetre, put them into an earthern pan, with some 
 thyme, bay-leaf, spice, a clove of chopped garlic, rub them 
 for a couple of days, after which dip each piece in water, 
 and dry on a cloth; when you have chopped fine and 
 melted all the fat you could get from the goose, and 
 scraped a quarter of a pound of fat bacon and melted 
 with it, pass through a sieve into a stewpan, lay the pieces 
 in it, and bake very gently in a slow oven until a stiff 
 piece of straw will go through it, then lay it in a sieve; 
 when nearly cold put it in a bowl or round preserving jar, 
 and press a smaller one on the top, so that it all forms 
 one solid mass, pour the fat over, when cold cover with a 
 piece of bladder, keep it in a cold place, and it will be 
 good for months together, and is excellent for breakfast, 
 luncheon, or supper, having previously extracted the fat. 
 Last winter I kept some for three months quite sweet; 
 having half a one left, I put it by in the above way, bones 
 and all, in a basin, and covered with the fat produced 
 with roasting, and put it in the larder, and it was excellent. 
 Ducks may be served in the same way. 
 
 DUCKS.—There are several varieties of this bird, all, however, originating 
 from the mallard. There have not been that care and attention paid to this 
 bird as to the fowl ; but I think it is well worthy the attention of farmers, it 
 being one which is exceedingly cheap to rear ; great care should be evinced 
 in feeding it twelve days previously to its being killed. Ducklings are con¬ 
 sidered a luxury, but which, I think, is more to be attributed to their scarcity 
 than flavour : those from Aylesbury are preferred. The drake is generally 
 considered the best, but, as a general rule, those of the least gaudy plumage 
 are the best; they should be hard and thick on the belly, and limber-footed. 
 
 400. DUCKS ROASTED.—Prepare them for the spit 
 (that is, the same as geese, only leave the fat on), and 
 stuff them with sage, onion, and bread-crumbs, prepared 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 221 
 
 as for the goose, roast before a very quick fire, and serve 
 very hot. There are many ways of cooking ducks, but 
 this is the plainest and the best. 
 
 401. STEWED DUCK AND PEAS.—Procure a 
 duck trussed with the legs turned inside, which put into 
 a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a 
 pound of streaked bacon, let remain over a fire, stirring 
 occasionally until lightly browned, when add a table¬ 
 spoonful of flour (mix well) and a quart of broth or water, 
 stir round gently until boiling, when skim, and add twenty 
 button onions, a bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, and 
 two cloves, let simmer a quarter of an hour, then add a 
 quart of nice young peas, let simmer until done, which 
 will take about half an hour longer, take out the duck, 
 place it upon your dish (taking away the string it was 
 trussed with), take out the parsley and bay-leaf, season 
 the peas with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, skim the fat, 
 reduce a little if not sufficiently thick, pour over the duck, 
 and serve. 
 
 402. DUCKLING WITH TURNIPS is a very fa¬ 
 vourite dish among the middle classes in France. Pro¬ 
 ceed as in the last, but instead of peas use about forty 
 pieces of good turnips cut into moderate-sized square 
 pieces, having previously fried them of a light yellow 
 colour in a little butter or lard, and drained them upon a 
 sieve, dress the duck upon a dish as before, season the 
 sauce with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce until 
 rather thick, a thin sauce not suiting a dish of this descrip¬ 
 tion ; the turnips must not, however, be in puree; sauce 
 over and serve. 
 
 The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may 
 be hashed as directed for goose, and for variety, should 
 
222 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 peas be in season, a pint previously boiled may be added 
 to the hash just before serving. The sage and apple must 
 in all cases be omitted. 
 
 403. DUCKS A L’AUBERGrlSTE (or Tavern-keepers ’ 
 fashion .)—Truss one or two ducks with the legs turned 
 inside, put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound 
 of butter; place them over a slow T fire, turning round occa¬ 
 sionally, until they have taken a nice brown colour, add 
 two spoonfuls of flour, mix well with them, add a quart 
 of water, with half a tablespoonful of salt and sugar, let 
 simmer gently until the ducks are done (but adding forty 
 button onions well peeled as soon as it begins to boil), 
 keep hot; peel and cut ten turnips in slices, fry them in 
 a frying-pan in butter, drain upon a cloth, put them into 
 the sauce, and stew until quite tender; dress the ducks 
 upon your dish, skim the fat from the sauce, which has 
 attained a consistency, add some fresh mushrooms, pour 
 round the ducks, and serve. 
 
 FLANCS. 
 
 At this part of the dinner there are those dishes which are called Flanes, 
 by which is understood, those dishes whose contents are not so large as the 
 Removes and not so small as the Entries, and the Receipts for which may be 
 taken from either of those departments, with this difference;—instead of meat 
 or poultry being cut up, it should be left whole : for instance, a loin of mutton, 
 instead of being cut up into cutlets, should be served whole, with some sauce 
 under it ; and a duck, instead of being divided, should be left whole, and 
 served with some sauce. It is also a great addition in the appearance of the 
 table, and should always be served in a differently-formed dish to the entrees 
 or removes ; and are only required when eighteen or twenty persons dine, 
 and four corner dishes are used. 
 
223 
 
 ENTREES, or MADE DISHES. 
 
 Entrees are, in common terms, what are called made-dishes; of course, 
 these are the dishes upon which, in the high class of cookery, the talent of 
 the cook is displayed. Great care should be observed in dishing them up, lor 
 the eye is a great assistance to the palate : it often happens that the careless¬ 
 ness of the servant destroys the labours of the cook, by the manner in which 
 the dish is taken from the kitchen to the dining-room. In some measure to 
 avoid that, I direct a small thin border of mashed potatoes, about half an inch 
 wide and a quarter of an inch deep, to be placed on the bottom of the dish, 
 which keeps each object in its place: they should always be served exceed¬ 
 ingly hot. 
 
 MADE DISHES OF BEEF.—The remainder of any cooked 
 joints of beef may be advantageously and economically dressed 
 in the following ways: 
 
 404. HASHED BEEF.—Cut the beef into small thin slices, 
 which lay upon a plate, and to every pound of beef add half a 
 tablespoonful of flour, a little chopped onion or eschalot, two 
 saltspoonfuls of salt, and a half one of pepper, mix the whole 
 well together, and put it into a saucepan, with half a pint of 
 water, stir it over the fire until upon the point of boiling, when 
 set it at the corner of the fire to simmer for ten minutes; it is 
 then ready to serve. A great improvement to the appearance 
 of hash may be effected by adding a few spoonfuls of brown 
 gravy (No. 186), or a teaspoonful of colouring (No. 187), which 
 might always be kept in a bottle. The flavour of any kind ot 
 hash may be varied, by adding a few sprigs of parsley, or thyme, 
 or a couple of bay-leaves, or a little tarragon, or a few spoonfuls 
 of catsup, Soyer’s, Harvey’s, Soho, or Reading sauce. 
 
 405. ANOTHER WAY.—Cut the meat into slices, put two 
 tablespoonfuls of flour into a dish w T ith a teaspoonful of salt, a 
 saltspoonful of pepper, mix them together, rub the slices of 
 meat with it. Place in a large but shallow stewpan a piece of 
 butter the size of a walnut, and three small or one large onion 
 cut into slices; put it on the fire until the onion is browned, then 
 add the meat, which warm on one side, turn over, when warm 
 through, pour over it a pint of hot water, add two pickled gher¬ 
 kins cut in slices, with a tablespoonful of the vinegar of the 
 
224 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 pickle, let it boil up, and serve; or place it by the side of the 
 fire until wanted. A few mushrooms put in it is an improve¬ 
 ment, or a tablespoonful of walnut catsup. 
 
 406. MIROTON OF BEEF.—Peel and cut into thin slices 
 two large onions, put them in a stewpan or saucepan, with two 
 ounces of salt butter, place it over a slow fire, keeping the onions 
 stirred round with a wooden spoon until rather brown, but not 
 burnt in the least, then add a teaspoonful of flour, which mix 
 well in and moisten with half a pint of water or broth if handy, 
 season with three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of sugar, and one of 
 pepper if water has been used, but if broth, diminish the quan¬ 
 tity of salt, add a little colouring (No. 187), to improve its ap¬ 
 pearance; put in the beef, which you have previously cut into 
 small thin slices, as free from fat as possible, let it remain a few 
 minutes upon the fire to simmer, and serve upon a hot dish. To 
 vary the flavour, a tablespoonful of vinegar might be added or 
 half a glass of sherry. The above proportions are sufficient for 
 one pound and a half of solid meat, and of course should be 
 increased or diminished accordingly. 
 
 407. ANOTHER WAY.—Prepare the meat precisely as in 
 the last, and when done put it into a pie-dish, sprinkle bread¬ 
 crumbs lightly over, enough to cover the meat, upon which lay 
 a small piece of butter, put the dish in the oven for half an hour, 
 or before the fire, with a screen behind it, turning the dish round 
 occasionally. By grating the crust of bread you would obtain 
 some brown bread-crumbs, which would do equally as well as 
 bread rubbed through a sieve. 
 
 Should you have any cold from the first receipt, it may be served as here 
 directed ; hut being cold, would require to be longer in the oven to become 
 well hot through. 
 
 408. ANOTHER WAY.—If any left from a previous 
 dinner, put it in a dish, placing the meat in the centre, rather 
 higher, cover over with some delicate mashed potatoes, about 
 two inches in thickness, to form a dome, rub some egg over with 
 a paste-brush, and sprinkle crumbs of bread (either grated or 
 otherwise) upon the top, and set in the oven until well browned, 
 when serve. 
 
 409. A QUICKER WAY.—Cook a few slices of lean bacon 
 in a frying-pan, but not too much, lay some of them in the 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 225 
 
 bottom of the pie-dish, over which lay slices of beef cut thin 
 
 winch season with a little pepper, salt, chopped parsley, S 
 chopped eschalots (if not objectionable), sprinkle over a little 
 flour, proceeding thus until the dish is pretty full, when pour over 
 had a gill of broth or water, to which you have added a little 
 colouiing, No. 187, (more seasoning would be required if water 
 was used,) set the dish in the oven (having previously covered 
 the meat over with mashed potatoes) for about an hour. 
 
 By adding half the above quantity of liquor, the meat might be covered 
 with a thin suet crust and served as a pie. as also might any of the former 
 receipts, in which a bay-leaf, chopped parsley, or even chopped gherkins, 
 might oe served, being a great improvement. 
 
 .f, 10 ‘i5F MAINS ? F RIBS 0E BEEF > ^ only the bones 
 with a httle meat on them. . Divide and saw them into pieces of 
 
 iree inches each, put them in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of 
 
 our, some pepper and salt, two onions chopped fine, three turnips 
 and one carrot cut into square pieces of a quarter of an inch 
 and one inch long, nearly cover with water; add a spoonful of 
 colouring and place on the fire and simmer for about an hour, 
 
 serve with the pieces tastefully laid in the dish, the vegetables 
 and broth poured over. 
 
 4il. BROILED BONES.—Divide them, rub with mustard, 
 pepper, and salt, and broil over a clear fire, serve with fried po¬ 
 tatoes; and a little gravy may be added. 
 
 41_. BEEF PALATES.—Although this is an article very 
 se dom used in small families they are very much to be com¬ 
 mended; they may be dressed in various ways, and are not ex¬ 
 pensive, about four would be sufficient for a dish. Put them 
 into a large stewpan of lukewarm water, where let them remain 
 four or five hours to disgorge, after which pour off the water, 
 cover again with fresh water, and place the stewpan upon the 
 me until the palates become hard, when take out one, which 
 dip into cold water, scrape it with a knife, and if the skin comes 
 °, easi y, take out the remainder; but if not, let them remain a 
 short time longer: scrape them until you have got off all the 
 s ^in, and notuing but the white half transparent substance re¬ 
 mains. I hen make a white stock as directed. No. 135, in which 
 boil them three or four hours until very tender, which try with 
 the point of a knife, then take them up, lay them flat upon a 
 
 Q 
 
226 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 dish, covered with a little of the stock, and place another dish 
 of the same size over, to keep them hat, let remain until cold, 
 when they are ready to serve in either of the following ways:— 
 
 413. BEEF PALATES A LA BRETONNE.—Peel and 
 cut two large onions into slices, which put into a stewpan, with 
 an ounce of butter, stirring them over the fire until lightly fried, 
 when add a teaspoonful of flour, which mix well in, and a gill 
 of broth, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, add a few 
 drops of brown gravy or browning, No. 186, and a spoonful of 
 mustard; boil the whole, keeping it stirred until forming a 
 thicldsli pulp; then cut the palates into square pieces, and put 
 into it; when well hot through they are ready to serve. 
 
 414. BEEF PALATES A LTNDIENNE.—Having pre¬ 
 pared the palates as in No. 412, make some curry sauce as No. 
 156, cut the palate into square pieces and warm in the sauce, 
 serve with rice separate, and it is delicious. 
 
 415. BEEF PALATES A LA POULETTE.—Make a 
 little white sauce as directed, No. 135; after having prepared 
 the palates, cut them into square pieces, and put them into a 
 stewpan, just covered with some of the white sauce, season with 
 a little white pepper, salt, sugar, chopped parsley, and the juice 
 of half a lemon; let them simmer about five minutes, when pour 
 in a liaison of one yolk of egg, mixed with two tablespoonfuls 
 of cream or milk, stir it in rather quickly, and not afterwards 
 permitting it to boil, then turn it upon your dish, place sippets 
 of toasted bread round, and serve: chopped parsley and a little 
 lemon may be added. 
 
 416. BEEF PALATES A LA MAITRE-D’HOTEL.— 
 Proceed as above, using seasoned melted maitre-d’hotel butter. 
 
 417. TRIPE.—Select one pound of tripe, thick, fat, and white 
 as possible, the honeycomb part is the most delicate; cut them 
 in pieces of half a pound each, tie them together, put into a con¬ 
 venient-sized stewpan one pint of milk, one of water, put in the 
 tripe, add six middle-sized onions whole, two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
 half one of pepper, let it simmer till the onions are done, and 
 the tripe is then ready, remove the string, dish broth and all in 
 a tureen. A little nutmeg, thyme, and bay-leaf, added just be- 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 2*27 
 
 fore serving is an improvement. If any remains, warm in curry 
 sauce. 
 
 417. * TRIPE, LYONS FASHION. —When there is any 
 remaining from a previous day, dry it on a clean cloth, cut them 
 into pieces an inch square, put into an omelette or saute pan one 
 or two ounces of butter, according to the quantity, slice thin a 
 large onion, which fry in the pan, then add the tripe, sautS 
 them for five minutes, season with salt, pepper, and a spoonful 
 of vinegar; serve very hot. 
 
 418. OX TAILS A LA JARDINIERE.—Cut and cook 
 two ox tails as directed for soup, but just before they are done, 
 skim well, and take out the pieces of tails, which put upon a 
 dish, then in another stewpan put two ounces of butter, to 
 •which, when melted, add three ounces of flour, stirring it over 
 the fire until forming a brownish roux (thickening), then mix 
 by degrees two quarts of the stock the tails were boiled in, and 
 boil altogether ten minutes, then put in the tails, with one carrot 
 and two turnips (cut into small dice, or any other shape, with a 
 vegetable cutter), and about thirty button onions; let the whole 
 simmer very gently upon the corner of the fire, keeping it well 
 skimmed, until the vegetables are tender, and the sauce suffi¬ 
 ciently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, dress the meat 
 upon a dish, reduce the sauce, which pour over and serve. 
 
 419. OX TAILS AU GRATIN.—Cook two ox tails as 
 before, and when cold, dry them upon a cloth, season with pepper 
 and salt, have a couple of eggs well beaten upon a plate, into 
 which dip each piece singly, afterwards throwing them into a 
 dish of bread crumbs, to cover every part, then beat them 
 lightly with a knife, and again egg and bread-crumb them, broil 
 them upon a gridiron, or place them in a very hot oven until of 
 a brownish colour, when serve with any sauce you may fancy, 
 or a little plain gravy. 
 
 / 
 
 420. OX TAILS, SAUCE PIQUANTE.—Cook the tails 
 as before, and when done dress them upon your dish pyramidi- 
 cally, then make about a pint of sharp sauce, No. 140, but 
 omitting half the quantity of vinegar, and reducing it until 
 rather thick; season rather highly, add three or four gherkins 
 chopped very fine, pour the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 421. OX HEART.—This dish, although not very recherche , 
 is a good family one, and remarkable for its cheapness. Put it 
 into lukewarm water, one hour to disgorge, then wipe it well 
 with a cloth, and stuff the interior with a highly-seasoned veal 
 stuffing, tie it up in paper, and pass a small spit through the 
 sides, set it before a good fire for about two hours to roast, 
 keeping it well basted—being almost deprived of fat, basting is 
 thus required; when done, take off the paper, and serve with any 
 sharp sauce, or a little plain gravy. Two hours would be sufficient 
 to roast a large heart; but if smaller, of course less time in pro¬ 
 portion would be required. I have also stuffed a heart with sage 
 and onion, and even ventured the apple sauce: both succeeded 
 admirably, and it can be baked as well as roasted. 
 
 I remember, when in business, upon one occasion, having a few friends 
 pop in unexpectedly about luncheon-time upon a Saturday (which is a day I 
 always contrive to keep my larder as short as possible), and having nothing 
 but a heart as a meal to give them, I immediately gave orders to the cook to 
 cut it into slices half an inch thick, dip each piece in flour, and afterwards egg 
 and bread-crumb them, then to put four spoonfuls of oil in the frying-pan, 
 lay part of the pieces in, and saute of a nice colour, then to keep them hot in 
 a dish, and saute the remainder; and when all done, to pour off part of the 
 oil, put a teasponful of flour in the pan, mixing it with the remaining oil and 
 gravy, then pouring in a gill of water, season with a little pepper and salt, 
 four spoonfuls of the vinegar from piccalilly, and a little of the pickle finely 
 chopped; boil the whole a minute, pour over the heart, and serve very hot. 
 It pleased very much, and they made a hearty meal from it; and I have 
 since had some with a little plain gravy, and broiled bacon: in both instances 
 it was very good. 
 
 422. POTATO SANDWICHES.—Saute the slices of beef 
 as directed for bubble and squeak, cover one side of each piece 
 with mashed potatoes a quarter of an inch in thickness, egg and 
 bread-crumb over, then proceed the same with the other sides, 
 fry in hot fat of a light brown colour, as you would a sole, and 
 serve. Any kind of fresh meat may be used the same way. 
 
 423. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK.—I am certain you must 
 know, as well as myself, our hereditary dish called bubble and 
 squeak; but, like the preparation of other things, there is a 
 good way anci a bad; and, as you prefer the former to the 
 latter, proceed as follows:—Boil a few greens, or a savoy 
 cabbage (which has been previously well washed), in plain 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 229 
 
 water until tender, which then drain quite dry in a colander or 
 sieve, put it upon a trencher, and chop it rather tine with a 
 knife, then for a pound of salt beef you have in slices, put 
 nearly a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying-pan, in 
 which saute the beef gently but not too dry; when done, keep 
 it hot, put the cabbage in the frying-pan, season with a little 
 salt and pepper, and when hot through, dress it upon a dish, lay 
 the beef over, and serve. Endive or large cabbage-lettuces may 
 be used instead of cabbage, but care must be taken to drain off 
 all the water. 
 
 424. STEWED BEEF OB BUMP STEAK.—Have a 
 steak weighing two pounds, and an inch and a half in thickness, 
 then put two ounces of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, when 
 melted lay in the steak, with a quarter of a pound of lean bacon 
 cut into very small square pieces, place the stewpan over the 
 fire, turning the steak over occasionally until a little browned, 
 when lay it out upon a dish, then add a tablespoonful of flour to 
 the butter in the stewpan, which continue stirring over the fire, 
 until forming a brownish roux; then again lay in the steak, add 
 a pint of water, with a glass of sherry if handy, and a little 
 pepper, salt, and a bay-leaf, let simmer slowly for one hour, skim 
 off’ all the fat, and add twenty button onions, let it again simmer 
 until the onions are very tender, as likewise the steak, which dress 
 upon a dish, take the onions and bacon out with a colander- 
 spoon, .and lay them upon the steak, pour the sauce round, and 
 serve. This slow process must not alarm you, as it is in¬ 
 dispensable. 
 
 425. OX BBAINS are prepared exactly as directed for calfs 
 brains, but being larger, require much longer to disgorge, as 
 also a proportionate time longer to cook; when done, in addi¬ 
 tion to the sauce ordered for calf’s brains, they may be served 
 with strips of bacon broiled and dressed in a border round, sauce 
 over with a highly-seasoned melted butter and parsley sauce. 
 You must observe, that all such kind of dishes being of them¬ 
 selves naturally tasteless, require to be highly seasoned; any 
 sharp sauce is good with it. 
 
 426. BEEF A-LA-MODE.—Procure a small piece of rump, 
 sirloin, or ribs of beef, about twelve pounds in weight, take 
 away all the bone, and lard the meat through with ten long 
 pieces of fat bacon, then put it into a long earthen pan, with a. 
 
230 
 
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 calf’s foot, four onions, two carrots, cut in slices if large, a bunch 
 of parsley, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, two cloves 
 stuck into one of the onions, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one 
 of salt, four wine-glasses of sherry, four ditto of water, and a 
 pound of streaked bacon cut in squares, place the cover over the 
 pan with a piece of common flour and water paste round the 
 edges to keep it perfectly air-tight, and place it in a moderate 
 oven four hours, when take out of the pan, and dress upon a 
 dish with the vegetables and bacon round, skim and pass the 
 gravy through a hair sieve, which pour over and serve. But 
 the above is best eaten cold, when it should not be taken from 
 the pan, or the pan opened until nearly so. 
 
 A long brown earthen pan for the above purposes may be 
 obtained at any china warehouse, but should you not be able to 
 procure one, a stewpan must supply its place. 
 
 427. ANOTHER METHOD.—-Have ready six pounds of 
 rump of beef, cut into pieces two inches square, each of which 
 lard through w r ith two or three strips of bacon ; have also two 
 pounds of streaked bacon, which clear from the rind, and cut 
 into squares half the size of the beef, put the whole into an 
 earthen pan, with two calf’s feet, (cut up small,) half a pint of 
 sherry, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, 
 four onions, with a clove stuck in each, a blade of mace, and 
 half a pint of water, cover the pan as in the last, and put it in a 
 moderate oven for three hours; when done, do not remove the 
 lid until three parts cold, then take out the meat, lay some of 
 the beef at the bottom of a stewpan, (not too large,) then a little 
 bacon, then more beef, and so on alternately, press them lightly 
 together, pass the gravy through a hair sieve over, and leave it 
 until quite cold and set, when dip the stewpan into hot water, 
 and turn it out upon a dish to serve. The calf’s feet may be 
 made hot in a little of the stock, to which add two pats of 
 butter, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour, season 
 with a little chopped parsley and half a spoonful of vinegar, and 
 serve as an entree. The above is excellent either hot or cold. 
 
 428. FILLET OF BEEF.—Procure a piece of a fillet of 
 beef weighing about two or three pounds, which may be ob¬ 
 tained at any butcher’s, being cut from underneath the rump; 
 trim off part of the fat, so as to round the fillet, which cut into 
 slices the thickness of your finger, beat them lightly with a 
 chopper, and cut the thin skin which covers the top of the fillet, 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 231 
 
 to prevent their curling up whilst broiling; place them upon a 
 gridiron over a sharp fire, seasoning with a little salt and pepper, 
 and turning three or four times to preserve the gravy: about six 
 or seven minutes will be sufficient to cook them. Three or four 
 slices will be sufficient for a corner dish; but if for a principal 
 dish, of course more will be required. Fillet of beef, dressed 
 as above, may be rubbed over with maitre-d’hotel or anchovy 
 butter, and serve very hot. 
 
 429. —FILLET OF EEEF SAUTE.—After having cut the 
 fillet in slices as in the last, put two ounces of butter into a 
 clean frying-pan, which set upon the fire, and when melted, lay 
 in the meat, seasoned with a saltspoonful of salt, and half that 
 quantity of pepper to each piece; turn them over three or four 
 times whilst cooking, and, when done, dress upon your dish, with 
 either of the butters mentioned in the last spread over. 
 
 430. ANOTHER METHOD.—When the fillets are dished 
 up, put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into the pan they 
 
 'were cooked in, which cook for about a minute, but not letting 
 them burn, then pour off' part of the fat, if too much, and add 
 two teaspoonfuls of flour; stir with a wooden spoon until 
 becoming brownish, then add nearly a pint of water, a table¬ 
 spoonful of vinegar, and a few drops of browning; let it boil a 
 few minutes, seasoning with a little pepper, salt, and sugai; 
 when of the consistency of a thin sauce, pour over the fillets and 
 serve.. A few chopped pickles of any description (but not too 
 hot) mi°ht be introduced, but then half the quantity of vinegar 
 would be sufficient. A spoonful of Harvey’s sauce may be 
 
 added, and a little glaze improves it. , , , 
 
 Mutton, lamb, or pork-chops, or veal-cutlets, may be dressed 
 
 in a similar manner. 
 
 431. MINCED BEEF.—Cut a pound and a half of lean 
 cooked beef into very small dice, which put upon a plate; in a 
 stewpan put a good teaspoonful of finely-chopped onions, with 
 a piece of butter of the size of a walnut, which stir over the 
 fire until the onions become lightly browned, when stir in halt a 
 tablespoonful of flour, with which mix by degrees halt a pint ot 
 broth (or water) to which you have added a few drops ot brown¬ 
 ing and a teaspoonful of vinegar; let it boil five minutes, stirring 
 it the whole time, then throw r in the meat, season rather high y 
 with a little pepper and salt, and, when hot, pour it into a deep 
 
232 
 
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 dish, and serve with sippets of toasted bread round, or poached 
 eggs on it. 
 
 432. CROQUETTES OF BEEF.—Proceed precisely as in 
 the last, but omitting the vinegar; when done, stir in two yolks 
 of eggs quickly, stir another minute over the fire, then pour it 
 upon a dish until cold; have a couple of eggs well beaten upon 
 a plate, also some bread-crumbs in a separate dish, then divide 
 the preparation into about a dozen pieces, which roll up into 
 round balls, or any other shape, and throw them into the bread¬ 
 crumbs, move them over until well covered, then roll them into 
 the egg, then the bread-crumbs again, from which take them 
 gently, patting the surface lightly with a knife, put them into 
 very hot lard or fat to fry of a yellowish-brown colour, being 
 careful not to break them whilst frying; when done, drain them 
 upon a cloth, and serve either upon a napkin, or with fried 
 parsley. 
 
 433. A FAMILY FRENCH SALAD FOR THE SUM¬ 
 MER.—I can assure you that when in France, during the hot 
 weather, I used to enjoy the following salads immensely, having 
 them usuall) r twice a week for my dinner; they are not only 
 wholesome, but cheap and quickly done. Cut up a pound of 
 cold beef into thin slices, which put into a salad-bowl, with 
 about half a pound of white fresh lettuce, cut into pieces similar 
 to the beef, season over with a good teaspoonful of salt, half 
 that quantity of pepper, two spoonfuls of vinegar, and five of 
 good salad oil, stir all together lightly with a fork and spoon, 
 and when well mixed it is ready to serve. 
 
 For a change, cabbage-lettuce may be used, or, if in season, a 
 little endive (well washed), or a little celery, or a few gherkins; 
 also, to vary the seasoning, a little chopped tarragon and chervil, 
 chopped eschalots, or a little scraped garlic, if approved of, but 
 all in proportion, and used with moderation. White haricot 
 beans are also excellent with it. Remains of cold veal, mutton, 
 or lamb, may be dressed the same way. 
 
 434. POTATOES AND MEAT SALAD.—Proceed as in 
 the last, but omitting the lettuce; if any cold potatoes remain 
 from a previous dinner, peel and cut them in halves if small, but 
 in quarters if large, and then into pieces the size of a shilling, 
 but four times the thickness; put them into a salad-bowl with 
 the meat, seasoning as before, but using more oil and vinegar, 
 and adding a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. A small quantity 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 233 
 
 of any description of pickles might be added to this salad, as 
 also some anchovies or olives. The remains of any fowls or 
 turkey may be mixed in salads, but according to our habits, 
 many persons would fancy they were not nutritious; of that I 
 can assure them to the contrary. 
 
 The quantity of the meat and vegetable should pretty equally balance 
 with each other; after such a meal, a man’s appetite is perfectly satisfied, 
 and he is ready for an afternoon’s work if required. It also does not require 
 the aid of any fire, which we so ungratefully abhor in hot weather. Mr. B. 
 very much approves of this dish once a week in summer. 
 
 435. OX-KIDNEYS.—Cut a nice fresh ox-kidney into 
 slices, each being about the size of a half crown piece, but 
 double the thickness (avoiding the white part, or root, which is 
 tough and indigestible), then put a quarter of a pound of butter 
 into a stewpan upon the tire, and when very hot but not black, 
 put in the pieces of kidney, stirring them round with a wooden 
 spoon three minutes over a brisk fire; then add for each pound 
 weight of kidney, half a tablespoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, half that quantity of pepper, and a little sugar, moisten 
 with a gill of water and half a glass of sherry, add a little 
 browning, if handy, and let simmer gently for five minutes, 
 stirring them round occasionally; if too thick, add a few drops 
 more water, the same should be sufficiently thick to adhere to 
 the back of the spoon, pour them out upon your dish, and serve 
 very hot. Broth might be used instead of water if convenient, 
 but then the seasoning should be a little diminished, a little 
 chopped eschalot, parsley, or a few mushrooms, would be an 
 improvement. 
 
 By cutting an ox-kidney lengthwise in three slices, it might 
 he broiled or sauteed; if for gentlemen season rather highly, 
 but if ladies are to be the partakers, season more moderately; a 
 little gravy may be served with it, to which you have added 
 a little catsup; the root of the kidney must not be cut away in 
 this case, although not eatable. Ox-kidneys are also an ex¬ 
 cellent addition to beef-steak puddings and pies. 
 
 436. OX-FEET or COW-HEELS are very nutritious, 
 especially when well-boiled; they may be served in either of the 
 methods directed for tripe, or with a plain parsley-and-butter 
 sauce, to which, for a change, the juice of' a lemon or a drop of 
 vinegar may be added. Should any be left from the first day’s 
 dinner it may be served a la Lyonnaise, as directed for cold tripe. 
 
234 
 
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 437. REMAINS OF OX-TONGUE.—The remains of a 
 tongue from a previous dinner may'be again served thus:—Cut 
 it into thin slices, put a small piece of butter into a frying-pan, 
 lay the pieces of tongue over, which warm a few minutes in a 
 saute-pan, and serve with veal or fowl if any; when at home 
 alone, X frequently have it with mashed potatoes under; it makes 
 a very good dish for luncheon. The pieces of tongue might also 
 be egged and bread-crumbed previous to cooking as above, and 
 served with a plain gravy, or any sharp sauce. (See Sauces.) 
 Or should you have any tongue, and veal and beef remaining, 
 sprinkle a little chopped eschalots at the bottom of a pie-dish, 
 lay a layer of meat over, season with a little salt, pepper, and 
 chopped parsley, then a layer of the tongue; have some yel¬ 
 lowish crusts of bread grated, a teaspoonful of which sprinkle 
 over the tongue, then again a layer of the meat, proceeding thus 
 until the dish is nearly full, when sprinkle more of the brown 
 bread-crumbs over the top, placing a small piece of butter here 
 and there; pour in two wineglassfuls of water, set it in a warm 
 oven half an hour, and serve very hot. Or instead of bread¬ 
 crumbs, make a little good mashed potatoes, which spread over 
 it smoothly with a spoon or knife, bake half an hour in a warm 
 oven, and serve. 
 
 Should the remains of a tongue be but small, and if well 
 pickled and boiled, the root and all would be excellent in any 
 kind of beef, lamb, mutton, veal, or pork, hashed, or in pies or 
 puddings made from these meats. 
 
 438. REMAINS OF SALT BEEF.—The remains of salt 
 beef are very excellent served in the few following ways, no 
 matter from what joint, or from what part of the joint: Cut as 
 large and thin slices as possible, dip each slice into some 
 vinegar from mixed pickles, previously poured upon a plate in 
 small quantities; lay about a pound of the meat thus prepared 
 upon a flat dish, pour a wineglassful of water over, warm it 
 through in the oven, or before a slow' fire, and serve. Another 
 way is, after having dipped the beef in the vinegar, roll them in 
 flour, and proceed as above, adding double the quantity of water. 
 Another way is to saute the slices with a little butter in a 
 frying-pan, have ready some nice mashed potatoes very hot, lay 
 the beef over, and serve. 
 
 FRICANDEAU OF VEAL, —This is a very favourite dish of 
 mine. It is generally considered an expensive one, but the way in which I 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 235 
 
 do it is not so; besides, it gives a nice piece of veal at table, when a fillet 
 would be too large. I proceed to prepare it thus:— 
 
 439. I select a small leg of veal as white as possible, saw off 
 the knuckle a good length, with which I make stock for sauce, 
 broth, or glaze, and serve the meat as No. 184, then with a 
 sharp knife open the skin under the fat part of the leg, without 
 cutting through the solid meat, then with the hands open the 
 fillet, and lay it quite flat to extract with the knife the middle 
 bone, then let it lie flat lengthway on the skin side, and by 
 placing the left hand on the thick part, (which is called in 
 France “ la noix,”) with the knife cut two-thirds of it in a slant¬ 
 ing direction, leaving from one to one and a half inch of flesh 
 for the fillets (page 159); two fricandeaux may be made of the 
 noix alone, two also of the part called the under noix, but it 
 would destroy the fillets entirely. I then take a chopper dipped 
 in cold water, and beat the veal with the flat part, so as to make 
 it of an equal thickness; I then lard it.* 
 
 You may not succeed very well the first or second time, but now I anx 
 quite an artist in larding, as is also my cook, whom I taught, it being so 
 much like sewing. But should you not be able to manage it, you must 
 send it to the poulterer . The remains of the leg make an excellent fillet for 
 another day’s dinner. Having proceeded thus far, I then cook it, in the 
 following manner: 
 
 440. I take a stewpan of a convenient size, and lay on the 
 bottom six or eight thin slices of bacon, and place the fricandeau 
 on them; I then take two onions, two small carrots cut in slanting 
 slices which place round it; I then make a bouquet of ten sprigs 
 of parsley, two of thyme, two of bay leaf, which I put in with 
 
 * LARDING, {How to cut the Bacon for it.)— Choose a piece of firm fat 
 bacon not too thick, cut a piece crossways two inches wide if for laiding 
 fillets of beef or loin of veal; one and a half wide if for fricandeau or poultry; 
 and one inch wide if for sweetbreads or fillets of game or poultry: lay it on 
 the table with the rind under, press it flat, remove the lean part, then cut 
 it in slices across four lines thick and as deep as the rind; when done, press 
 them close together, then cut a slice four lines thick right through, drawing 
 the knife from the handle towards the point, and proceed thus with all the 
 piece, it will thus make every piece of bacon of the same size. 
 
 Then proceed to lard as follows :—Having the fricandeau trimmed as 
 No. 439, lay it lengthwise upon a clean napkin across your hand, forming a 
 kind of bridge with your thumb at the part you are about to commence at, 
 then with the point of the larding-needle make three distinct lines across. 
 
23 6 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 two cloves, half a blade of mace, and about a pint of broth or 
 water, so as not to cover the larding: if no broth, use water and 
 a, teaspoonful of salt; cover it with a sheet of buttered paper, set 
 it on a moderate fire; when on the point of boiling, put it in a 
 slack oven, where let it remain for two or three hours; be 
 careful every twenty minutes to moisten or baste the fricandeau 
 with the gravy which is in the stewpan: the slower it is done 
 the better. Ten minutes before it is removed from the oven, 
 take off the paper, in order that the top may obtain a nice yellow 
 colour; if the oven should not be hot enough, place live coals on 
 the lid of the stewpan until done, try also if it is tender with a 
 pointed knife. 
 
 This dish may be carved with a spoon, being so tender; but I prefer to 
 cut it with a very sharp knife, as it is more inviting in appearance; if you 
 have no oven ready, stew gently on a hot plate, or by the side of the stove, 
 with the lid on and live coals on the top. If you let it burn by any neglect 
 or accident, do not tell your friends that I gave you the receipt, as it would 
 eat so very badly, and I should lose my good name. It can be served with any 
 sauce or puree, but the one I prefer is as follows : Take the gravy from the 
 stewpan, which ought to be about half a pint, if not so much, add water, pass 
 it through a fine sieve into a basin, remove the fat from the top, put it into 
 a small stewpan, reduce it a little to a demi-glaze, mix half a teaspoonful of 
 arrow-root in a cup, with a little water, put it in the gravy, boil two minutes ; 
 it ought to be of a bright yellow colour, and transparent; the fricandeau 
 should be served with gravy under it. The following purees are excellent to 
 serve with it: sorrel, endive, peas, beans, artichokes, and spinach; tomato, 
 mushroom, and cucumber sauces, &c. If a piece of udder can be procured, 
 stew it with the fricandeau, and serve it in the same dish. This receipt will 
 well repay the trouble attending it. The following is very good, and more 
 simple. 
 
 half an inch apart, run the needle into the third line (at the further side of 
 the fricandeau) and bring it out at the first, placing one of the lardons in it, 
 <Iraw the needle through, leaving out a quarter of an inch of the bacon at 
 each line: proceed thus to the end of the row; then make another line half 
 an inch distant, stick in another row of lardons, bringing them out at the 
 second line, leaving the ends of the bacon out all the same length; make the 
 next row again at the same distance, bringing the ends out between the 
 lardons of the first row, proceeding in like manner until you have larded 
 the whole surface in chequered rows : proceed in a similar way with every¬ 
 thing you lard; and in case of poultry hold the breast over a charcoal fire 
 for one minute, or dip it into boiling water in order to make the flesh firm. 
 By following these directions, any cook may be ably to lard, if not well, 
 sufficient for general use. 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 237 
 
 441. FRICANDEAU BOURGEOISE, in its Gravy .—Cut 
 as before from the fillet, cut the bacon the same as for the neck, 
 and lard with about thirty large pieces, but in a slanting direc¬ 
 tion, leaving but little of the bacon to be seen, as the object is 
 to give all the advantage of the bacon to the meat; put it into a 
 stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter; a quarter of an 
 ounce of salt, and one-tenth of that of pepper; set it on the fire 
 for five minutes, turn it with a fork round and round, then rake 
 some cinders over the coals or charcoal so as to make it go slow, 
 and until it becomes of a nice yellow colour; then add a gill of 
 water, a bay leaf, half an onion, stew until quite tender, turning 
 it over and over, now and then;, put it on a dish, skim the fat 
 off the gravy, pour it over, and serve. It may also be served 
 thus: by throwing into the stewpan about twenty mushrooms, 
 well washed about ten minutes before serving; if the gravy is 
 too thin, add a little arrow-root, and serve: it can also be served 
 with the sauces named in the former Receipt. Nothing is nicer 
 cold than this; if required to be re-warmed, put it into a little 
 broth or warm water, and heat slowly. 
 
 442. CALF’S LIVER SAUTE.—Cut it into slices, put a 
 little butter in the saute, or frying-pan, when melted, lay the 
 liver in, season with salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of chopped 
 eschalot, parsley, and grated nutmeg, saute on a sharp fire; 
 when rather brown on both sides dredge a little flour, add a 
 tablespoonful of French vinegar, or a glass of wine, stir it well, 
 and boil for a few minutes; dish the liver in crpwns; if the 
 sauce is too pale, add a little mushroom catsup or colouring, and 
 it had better be too thin than too thick; taste if well seasoned, 
 and serve. The above is for about two pounds of liver. 
 
 443. CALF’S LIVER, English way .—Cut the liver into 
 thin slices, dip them in flour, and put it in a saute or frying-pan 
 in which some slices of bacon have been previously cooked, with, 
 sufficient fat left in it; saute the liver until quite brown and 
 rather crisp, when take out and place it upon a dish with the 
 bacon, then dredge a spoonful of flour in the pan, or enough to 
 absorb all the fat in it, then add a little broth or water so as make 
 it a thinnish sauce, season it, and add two spoonfuls of Harvey’s 
 sauce or mushroom catsup. If the above is nicely done, and the 
 pieces cut the size of cutlets, it will make a nice entree for an 
 ordinary dinner. It should be served immediately, and very hot. 
 
238 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 444. CALF’S LIYEE DRY.—The same may be served 
 dry with the bacon, or with any sharp sauce. 
 
 445. STEWED CALF’S LIVER.—Choose a nice fat one 
 rather white in colour, lard it through with bacon, put one 
 quarter of a pound of butter in a pan, when melted, add a table¬ 
 spoonful of flour, keep stirring until a nice yellow colour, then 
 put in the whole of the liver, turn round now and then until it 
 is a little firm, then add a pint of broth or water, and a glass of 
 any kind of wine, a bouquet of parsley, thyme, bay leaves, a 
 little salt, pepper, and sugar, thirty button onions, simmer one 
 hour; take the fat off and the bouquet out, dish the liver with 
 the onions around it, reduce the sauce, so that it adheres lightly 
 to the back of the spoon, sauce over and serve. Any vegetables 
 may be used, as carrots, turnips, peas, haricots; and if a little 
 gelatine or isinglass is added to the sauce, and the liver with 
 the sauce only put into a round basin and pressed down and left 
 until cold, it will make a nice dish for supper, lunch or breakfast. 
 If required to be rewarmed, cut into slices, put it in the pan 
 with a drop of water added to the gravy. 
 
 446. CALF’S HEART ROASTED.—Proceed exactly the 
 same as for ox’s heart, only this being more delicate and smaller, 
 requires less time to roast, from half an hour to one hour, 
 depending on the size; it may also be cut in slices, and sauteed 
 like the liver above; or, by having four for a large dish, they 
 may be dressed exactly like the liver No. 443, but white instead 
 of brown; stuff them, and saute white in butter, which depends 
 on a slow fire, and, adding the flour, just give a few turns and 
 add the broth immediately; season as described in the liver, stew 
 very gently for one hour, take out the hearts, skim off the fat, 
 let it be thickisli, boil down a little if required, prepare two 
 yolks of eggs well beaten, with a quarter of a gill of milk, broth, 
 or water, which pour into the same, stir quickly for half a 
 minute, add the juice of half a lemon, trim the hearts, dish them 
 in a dish with the points upwards, pour the sauce over, and serve. 
 
 447. ROAST SWEETBREADS.—Take the sweetbreads 
 and lay them in water at blood-heat, to disgorge, for three to 
 four hours; then blanch them for two minutes in boiling water, 
 put them into a stewpan with a few slices of carrot, onions, 
 turnip, a little parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, six pepper-corns, a 
 blade of mace, and a small piece of bacon, cover over with a 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 239 
 
 little broth or water, and let it boil for twenty minutes; take 
 them out and dry them in a cloth, egg and bread-crumb them, 
 tie them on a spit, and roast a nice brown colour for ten to 
 fifteen minutes; or they may be browned in an oven, or fried in 
 very hot lard for ten minutes, in which case they should stew a 
 little longer; they may be served with plain gravy and a piece 
 of toasted bread under, or a little melted butter and some of 
 either Harvey’s Reading, or Soyer’s sauce, and a little catsup 
 added to it, boiled and poured round it; or with any of the 
 sauces for fricandeau. The heart-bread being generally so 
 espensive, I seldom make use of it, but it may be blanched, 
 larded, cooked, and served like the fricandeau, diminishing the 
 larding and cooking according to the size of the bread, or it may 
 be dressed as above, or, if a large throat-bread, it may be larded. 
 
 443. SWEETBREADS SAUTE.—Blanch two throat- 
 sweetbreads as in the preceding receipt, cut them in slices, put 
 some butter in a frying-pan, and melt; then put in the sweet¬ 
 bread, season over with salt, pepper, juice of a lemon, and a 
 little chopped parsley, and a bay leaf; turn them until done, and 
 serve very hot, with maitre-d’hotel sauce over. 
 
 449. ANOTHER WAY.—Prepare as above; add a little 
 flour and a gill of broth, a few raw mushrooms, stir continually 
 to prevent burning, add a few spoonfuls of cream, and serve. 
 If any remain, do them au gratin , that is, put them in a pie- 
 dish or flat plated dish, brown, bread-crumb over, add a little 
 broth, put into an oven, and, when very hot, serve. 
 
 450. YEAL CUTLETS {old English method .)—Cut a steak 
 half an inch thick from a leg of veal, egg and bread crumb it, 
 put into a sautepan a piece of butter, and when hot lay in the 
 veal, cook it quickly, turning occasionally, when done remove to 
 a dish, put a little more butter into the sautepan with a little 
 flour, when brown add a little water and the juice of half a 
 lemon, pepper, and salt, let it boil up, pour over the cutlet, and 
 serve with broiled or boiled ham or bacon. 
 
 451. YEAL CUTLETS AUX FINES HERBES.—Cut 
 from the neck the same as you would from mutton, only, of 
 course, larger; sprinkle with salt, pepper, and chopped eschalot, 
 set them on a gridiron and broil like common chops; serve 
 
240 
 
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 plain, or rub a little maitre-d’hotel butter over them, set in a 
 hot place for a few moments, and serve. They may also be 
 sauteed, by putting them into a sautepan, and saute until of a 
 nice colour, take them out and put in the pan a spoonful of 
 chopped onions, parsley, and mushrooms (if at hand), stir until 
 done, then add a teaspoonful of flour; when it is a little brown, 
 add half a pint of water, two spoonfuls of Harvey’s sauce and 
 one of vinegar, stir well round, dish up the cutlets, sauce over, 
 and serve. They may also be larded like the fricandeau, and 
 served in the same way, and with the like sauces, only less time 
 in cooking. 
 
 452. VEAL CUTLETS EN PAPILLOTE.—Prepare as 
 the last, and put them in a pie-dish and pour the sauce over, 
 and let them remain until cold; then cut a sheet of foolscap 
 paper in the shape of a heart and oil or butter it; lay one of 
 the cutlets with a little of the sauce on one half of the paper, 
 turn the other half over, then turn and plait the edges of the 
 paper over, beginning at the top of the heart and finishing with 
 an extra twist at the bottom, which will cause the sauce to 
 remain in it; broil slowly on a gridiron for twenty minutes on 
 a very slow fire, or place it in the oven for that time, and serve. 
 
 453. HASHED CALF’S HEAD.—Put into a stew pan 
 one tablespoonful of chopped onions, and three of vinegar, take 
 the remains of the head which cut into slices, place them on a 
 dish, add a tablespoonful of flour to them, a teaspoonful of salt, 
 a quarter of one of pepper, put the stewpan on the fire to boil 
 for one minute, add the pieces of head, and moisten with half 
 pint of broth, water, or milk; let it simmer for ten minutes and 
 serve on toast or plain, or with sippets round. The addition of 
 a few gherkins sliced or any mixed pickle is an improvement. 
 A little thyme or bay leaf, if at hand, may be added. If with 
 water or gravy a little colouring will improve the appearance. 
 This receipt is for one pound of meat. It may also be warmed 
 in curry sauce, and is excellent. 
 
 454. A MADE DISH FROM YEAL JOINTS THAT 
 HAVE BEEN PREVIOUSLY SERVED.—(If from braised 
 veal, with vegetables, cut it into slices about a quarter of an inch 
 in thickness, then put the remainder vegetables and gravy, if 
 any, in a pan; if not, with water and a piece of glaze; season 
 with a little salt, pepper, sugar, a bay-leaf , and the juice of a 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 241 
 
 quarter of a lemon, simmer gently for twenty minutes on a 
 slow fire; dish the slices in the form of a crown, lay the 
 vegetables in the middle, pour gravy over, and serve. Should 
 any remain, cut it into very small dice, leave none on the bones, 
 put it in a pan, shake a little flour over, season with a little salt, 
 pepper, sugar, bay-leaf, and the juice of a quarter of a lemon, 
 then moisten it with milk sufficient to make a sauce, warm it 
 for ten minutes, add half an ounce of butter, stir it well, and 
 serve very hot: or, if you prefer it brown, leave out the milk 
 and throw a few chopped mushrooms and eschalots in, and 
 moisten with a little water, to which add a few drops of brown¬ 
 ing, or a little catsup: it ought never to be too thick. Poached 
 eggs may be served with it. 
 
 455. CALF’S BRAINS FRIED.—Prepare them as for 
 ealfshead, (p. 184;) cut them in pieces of about two inches 
 square, as for boiling, dip them into batter, and fry them im¬ 
 mersed in fat, and serve with fried parsley over. Season with 
 a little salt, pepper, and vinegar. 
 
 456. CALF’S BRAINS A LA MAITRE-D’HOTEL.— 
 Prepare the brain as before, warm six spoonfuls of melted 
 butter; when hot, add one ounce of maitre-d’hotel butter, and, 
 when melted, pour it over. 
 
 457. SHEEP’S BRAINS.—Proceed as for calf’s brains; 
 these being smaller do not require so long to cook; though very 
 good, they are not so delicate as calf’s brains. 
 
 458. SHEEP S KIDNEYS.—For a small dish, procure six 
 fresh ones, take off the thin skin which covers them, and cut 
 them into slices, put in a sautepan one ounce of butter; when 
 melted and nearly brown, add the kidneys, with half a tea¬ 
 spoonful of salt, one quarter ditto of pepper, half a tablespoonful 
 of flour, mix well together, add half a wine-glass of sherry and 
 a gill of broth, simmer for a few minutes, and serve very hot; a 
 nice crisp toast is an improvement placed under them; also, a 
 few raw mushrooms, cut in slices, added when being sauted, are 
 excellent. For broiled kidney, (see Breakfast.) They can 
 also be cut in half and cooked the same, and dished in a crown 
 on a thin border of mashed potatoes. 
 
 459. SHEEP’S FEET, OR TROTTERS.— Previous to visit¬ 
 ing the Continent, I had quite a dislike to these unfortunate pied de mouton, 
 whose blackish appearance in stall and market seemed to be only intended 
 
 R 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 OAO 
 
 zX mt 
 
 to satisfy tlie ravenous appetites of the gentlemen with the fan-tail hat, But 
 I must say since I have tasted them in France, cooked a la poulette, I have 
 become of quite another opinion; I have prepared them at home thus:— 
 
 I get a dozen of them from the tripe-butcher, all cleaned and 
 ready, and beg of him to extract the long bone from them. I 
 put a quarter of a pound of beef or mutton-suet in a stewpan, 
 with two onions and one carrot sliced, two bay-leaves, two 
 sprigs of thyme, one ounce of salt, a quarter of an ounce of 
 pepper, put on the fire, and cook five minutes; add two table¬ 
 spoonfuls of flour, and stir it round; add two quarts and a half 
 of water, then put in the feet, stir till boiling, simmer for nearly 
 three hours, or until the feet are perfectly tender; when done, 
 take them out, and lay on a sieve, take a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter, a teaspoonful of salt, the same of flour, a quarter 
 of one of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice of a lemon, 
 mix all these well together on a plate w r ith the back of a spoon; 
 put the feet with a gill of milk in a stewpan on the fire; when 
 very hot, put in the butter, stir continually till melted, having 
 previously well mixed two yolks of eggs with five tablespoonfuls 
 of milk, which put in the stewpan; keep moving the pan 
 round over the fire continually for one minute, serve in a very 
 hot dish with croutons of fried bread cut in triangular pieces 
 round the dish. The stock may be used for any puree or thick 
 soup. 
 
 460. FRENCH RAGOUT OF MUTTON.—Take about 
 two pounds of the scrag of the neck, breast, chump, or any 
 other part, with as little fat as possible, cut it into pieces of 
 about two inches square, put into a pan two ounces of butter, or 
 good fat; when melted, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir 
 with a wooden spoon till forming a brownish roux, add the meat, 
 and stir it round for twenty minutes, add a little water, but not 
 enough to cover the meat, one saltspoonful of pepper, four ditto of 
 salt, and four ditto of sugar, a bouquet of six sprigs of parsley, stir 
 till boiling, set it to simmer. Having previously peeled a few 
 turnips, cut in large dice of one inch square, about thirty pieces, 
 put some fat in the fryingpan, and fry the turnips until rather 
 brown, take them out, and put them in a stewpan with the 
 meat when it is done, which will be in about one hour from the 
 time it was put on; when ready to serve, take out the meat and 
 turnips, squeeze the bouquet, which throw away, skim off the 
 fat; if too thick, add a little broth or water; or, if too thin, boil 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 243 
 
 it a little more, dish it up by the placing pieces in a circle and 
 the turnips in the centre, sauce over, and serve very hot—(if 
 not, it is spoiled.) For those that like it, a small piece of scraped 
 garlic may be added. Onions, carrots, peas, &c., may be used in 
 place of the turnips. 
 
 This is a very favourite dish in France; I learnt it from an old French, 
 emigre, who used to visit us about ten years since. When I have company, 
 I use the chops of the neck, dress them in a crown, placing the vegetables in 
 the centre; I find them very much liked. I have at some houses partaken 
 of harico-mutton which has been tolerably good, but nothing in flavour to 
 this plan. If there is any left, it is good warmed again, or even cold. 
 
 461. IKISH STEW.—Cut up about two pounds of the neck 
 of the mutton into small cutlets, which put into a proper sized 
 stewpan with some of the fat of the mutton, season it with half a 
 tablespoonful of salt, a quarter of an ounce of pepper, the same of 
 sugar, six middle-sized onions, a quart of water; set them to boil 
 and simmer for half an hour, then add six middling-sized potatoes, 
 cut them in halves or quarters, stir it together, and let it stew 
 gently for about one hour longer; if too fat, remove it from the 
 top, but if well done the potatoes will absorb all of it, and eat 
 very delicate; any other part of the mutton may be served in 
 the same way. 
 
 I hope, dearest -, that you will not blame my apparent vulgar taste 
 
 in saying that I am fond of an Irish stew, but I always recommend it to my 
 friends; and often add a bay leaf to it, which varies the flavour. 
 
 LETTER No. XIY. 
 
 Dearest Eloise, — I certainly here must avail myself of M. Soyer’s kind 
 permission by taking from his “Gastronomic Regenerator” a very simple 
 receipt, it is true, but one which, in my estimation, has a great deal more 
 merit than that of a sumptuous dish—a new mutton chop; yes, Eloise, that 
 is all. Many will very likely laugh at me, and think I am joking to take 
 notice of a dish of such trifling importance, but, indeed, I assure you that I 
 am far from that, because I have tried it for my dinner to-day, and 
 in my opinion it is as far superior to the other as silver is to copper ; 
 and it is only in an enlightened era of wonders like ours, that such a 
 novelty in the culinary department could have been produced; where 
 steam, gas, railways, electric light, suspended bridges, which seem to fly 
 like zephyrs across the bosom of our mighty, wealthy, old Father Thames, 
 and the subterranean promenade under his gutta percha bed, where, as 
 the French say, the fishes from their windows make faces at the English 
 
 R 2 
 
244 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 while walking below, as well as (and more wonderful still) the electric 
 telegraph, which, even more freely than free-trade itself, carries like lightning 
 the flashes of a genius of a Cobden from our great commercial town of 
 Manchester to Printing-house Square and various offices, the sparks of whose 
 speech, if printers were careless, might set the paper on fire, by acquainting 
 the metropolis not only of his love for freedom, but of his enthusiastic 
 action, motion, commotion, and almost his thoughts ; even the cheerings 
 of the convives are actually in print, and read with the greatest anxiety by 
 the multitude in town, while the report of the last and most powerful line 
 just put to press is still roaring with echo throughout the vast cupola of the 
 Free Trade Hall as well as in the ears of thousands of guests present, who have 
 been favoured by partaking of the monster banquet; and as well but not so 
 wonderful, the invention, insurrection, and demolition of the Chartists—the 
 last effected by special order and special constables; the Satanic bottle, double 
 sight, and etherienne suspension of the inimitable Robert le Diable, by mistake 
 called Robert Houdin; Banvard’s Yankee cabinet picture, 3000 miles long, 
 out of which 2999 and three quarters are out of sight; more so than all, the 
 discovery of rocky dust, called gold, in the barbarian land of California, 
 where the humble and convalescent potato would be worth its weight of 
 the precious metal, a loaf of bread three times as much, and a basin of poor 
 man’s soup a guinea instead of a penny as here. Have we not also heard 
 of the great sea serpent, which a very serious American, who appears to 
 have been in company with him, says, that he was so tarnation long, that 
 whilst engaged in dining out upon 4000 or -5000 turtles in Honduras, the en£ 
 of his tail was at the same time hunting the white bear in the crystallize^ 
 mountains of the North Pole for his supper, being something of an epicure, 
 and consequently fond of a change! These, dearest, are facts that no one can 
 deny, “I guess;” and still it was to be among all these mai'vellous wonders 
 that the innovation of a new mutton chop should emanate from the brain of a 
 simple individual, while, for a century previous, the ancestors of our great 
 grandfathers were, as we were till the present day, often obliged to satisfy 
 their voracious appetite with a fat and clumsy mutton chop. Even now, dear, 
 you will hardly be able to comprehend the meaning of my enthusiasm for this 
 simple innovation! it is then for its great simplicity and cheapness, and that 
 if in general use (as I sincerely hope it will be), thousands will be able to 
 partake of it and enjoy it, and probably will keep a friendly remembrance of 
 the name of its inventor, because any one who invents, or tries so to do, 
 attempts to conquer the greatest difficulty to obtain fame and wealth, and 
 which by others is always envied and tried to be surpassed; such is the 
 world. While here, the humble, unassuming, disinterested inventor of the 
 said mutton chop will not even have the honour of opposition, though he 
 may be copied. Believe me, dearest, that is the only cause of my admiration. 
 Now for this wonder. 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 245 
 
 462. SOYEK’S NEW MUTTON CHOP.-Trim a 
 middling-sized saddle of mutton, which cut into chops halt an 
 inch in thickness with a saw, without at all making use of a 
 knife (the sawing them off jagging the meat and causing them 
 to eat more tender), then trim them to the shape represented m 
 the drawing, season well with salt and pepper, place them upon 
 a gridiron over a sharp fire, turning them three or four times, 
 they would require ten minutes cooking; when done dress them 
 upon a hot dish, spread a small piece of butter over each (it 
 approved of,) and serve: by adding half a tablespoonful of 
 Soyer’s Gentlemen’s or Lady’s Sauce to each chop when sei vin , 
 and turning it over two or three times, an excellent entrde is 
 produced: the bone keeping the gravy m whilst cooking, it is a 
 very great advantage to have chops cut after this method. At 
 home when I have a saddle of mutton, I usually cut two or 
 three such chops, which I broil, rub maitre-d’hotel butter over, 
 and serve with fried potatoes round, using the remainder of the 
 saddle the next day for a joint. The above are also very ex¬ 
 cellent, well seasoned and dipped into egg and bread-crumbs 
 previous to broiling. Lamb chops may be cut precisely the 
 same, but require a few minutes less broiling. 
 
 You must remark that, by this plan, the fat and lean are better divided, 
 and you can enjoy both ; whilst the other is a lump of meat near the hone 
 and fat at the other end, which partly melts in cooking, and is often burnt 
 by the flame it makes ; the new one not being divided at the hone keeps 
 the gravy in admirably. If well sawed it should not weig 1 more ian 
 
 ordinary one, being about half the thickness. Do tiy them, am e me 
 
 , J . • ° Ever yours, Hortensb. 
 
 know your opinion. J ' 
 
246 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 LETTER No. XV. 
 
 Dear Hortense, —Yours of last night was received at our supper-table, 
 which was surrounded by a few of our best friends, and I need not tell you 
 the merriment it created respecting your fantastic ideas of this age of 
 wonders. A very sedate old gentleman, who happened to have met you at 
 Hr. H.’s party about a week or two ago, and wished to be very courteous to 
 you, (perhaps you did not notice his compliments,) not only would he not 
 give a smile to our hearty laugh, but actually swore that such comical nonsense 
 was very dangerous to expose before the public, and especially if we intended 
 to give publicity to it with the receipts, the last of which he very much 
 approved of. But respecting your fun on the review of our century,—“ A 
 woman,” said he, “ ought never to interfere with politics!” “ Politics !” 
 we all exclaimed, “ where do you see anything political in it ?” “ In almost 
 
 every word,” replied he. “But in what part ?” said we ; “ explain yourself?” 
 Unfortunately our hero stuttered very much. “Now, it-it-it is not one of- 
 of of you here, perhaps, who-who-who a-a-a-ve been in ann-y pu-pu-public 
 office like me in ma-ma-my youth. I was cla-cla-cla-clerk of the second 
 cla-cla-clerk of the first cla-cla-cla-clerk of the private secretary’s cla-cla- 
 
 cla-clerk of the Home of-of-of-” Here, dear, we all burst out laughing, 
 
 which made the old gentleman so mad, that he rushed from the room into the 
 passage, to the street-door, and out of the house, without hi3 hat, Welsh wig, 
 great coat, and umbrella, while the servant had a regular race to get hold of 
 hub. She at last found him talking to himself under one of our willow-trees 
 in the garden, coming back for his tackle with his two hands over his red 
 wig, and his thick head underneath it. Being a wet night, after inquiring of 
 the servant what he had said to her—“Ma-ma-ma-rie,” said he, “you are a 
 ve-ve-ve-very good girl indeed, very good girl, and I-I-I-I am ve-ve-ve-very 
 sorry I have no money with me to gi-gi-gi-gi-give you something for your 
 trouble, especially as you will ne-ne-ne-never see me here again—no, ne-ne- 
 never.” “Never mind, sir, about the money,” said she to him,” I am no 
 more disappointed than usual. Good night, sir.” “Mary, you are a 
 ve-ve-very sau-saucy huzzy, a ve-verv saucy huzzy, ” was his answer. He 
 then gradually disappeared in the fog. In a few seconds after, she heard 
 some one sneezing most fearfully in the direction he was gone, which she 
 believed to be our stuttering friend. So you see, dear, there is quite an 
 event on a mutton chop. But let me tell you that, though your receipt came 
 rather late, we still had some for supper, and very good they were ; every 
 one was delighted with them; in fact, we eat hardly anything else, being 
 so comically introduced to us. I had them brought up at three different 
 times, broiling hot from the gridiron. I made twelve chops out of a middle 
 sized saddle of mutton, weighing about seven pounds:—is that right ? and I 
 have about three pounds of chump remaining, which, of course, I intend 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 247 
 
 making broth, Irish stew, or pies with. But, dearest, let us go throug 1 1 © 
 remainder of the Receipts without any more interruption. 
 
 My husband begs to be kindly remembered to you both. Ever 
 
 4 fW MUTTON CUTLETS—Trim a neck of mutton by 
 cutting away the scrag and sawing off three inches of the rib- 
 bone, then cut about ten cutlets out of the neck, shape them by 
 
248 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 chopping off the thick part of the chine-bone, beat them flat to 
 about a quarter of an inch in thickness with a cutlet chopper, 
 dipped in cold water, detach an inch of fat from the top of the rib- 
 bone, and trim it like the engraving, season with a little salt and 
 pepper, then well beat up one egg, dip a brush into it, and rub 
 it lightly over the chop, dip it into bread-crumbs, form it into 
 shape again and dress in the following way:— 
 
 Put two ounces of butter into a sautepan or very clean 
 omelette-pan, melt it, and put the cutlets in; put it on the fire 
 for five minutes till it is a nice yellow colour; turn them, let 
 them remain four minutes longer, try if they are done by pressing 
 with the finger; they ought to be firm and full of gravy; lay 
 them on a clean cloth, and dress them in the form of a crown, 
 that is, by keeping the thick part at the bottom, and the scraped 
 part of the bone at the top, and each one resting half-way on 
 the other. Every dish of cutlets must be served thus. 
 
 464. CUTLETS WITH MUSHROOMS.— If for tenor 
 twelve cutlets take about twenty fresh mushrooms, cut off the 
 tails, wash them, and dry on a cloth, put two pats of butter in a 
 stewpan, half a gill of water, the juice of a lemon, a little salt 
 and pepper; set on the fire; boil for a few minutes, then add 
 two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, when very hot add a liaison 
 of the yolk of an egg, made as follows: 
 
 Put the yolk in a cup, and mix well with two tablespoonfuls 
 of milk, stir well for one minute, put it in the middle of your 
 pan; if no white sauce, add a little milk to the mushrooms, and 
 mix a little flour with half a pat of butter, and put it in; keep 
 stirring until boiling; dish up the cutlets, and the liaison, and 
 serve; or still plainer, take the same number of mushroo is, 
 wash well, cut in thin slices, put into a stewpan, with two pats 
 of butter, half a teaspoonful of flour, a little salt and pepper, the 
 juice of a lemon, and a little water; stew gently for ten minutes, 
 serve, pouring the sauce over, or in the middle of the cutlets 
 
 They can be served as cutlets a la jardiniere, or with peas, 
 tomatoes, artichokes, spinach, or a la poiverade, a la sauce 
 piquante, with Brussels sprouts, and a la Soubise. 
 
 465. CUTLETS A LA MAiTRE-D’HOTEL.—When the 
 cutlets are done, dish them up, put two ounces of maitre-d’hotel 
 butter in a clean sautepan, keep it moving until melted; put tw® 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 249 
 
 spoonfuls of cream when very hot, pour over, and serve with, 
 fried potatoes in the middle. 
 
 466. CUTLETS, PLAINER WAY.—Cut them from the 
 neck, beat them down roughly without trimming, put them on 
 the gridiron, when warm through, add salt, pepper, and very 
 fine chopped onions, turn several times; they will take about 
 ten minutes broiling; dish very hot, and serve. They may also 
 be served on very white mashed potatoes. 
 
 467. SHEEP’S TONGUE DEMI-GLAZE.—For one dish, 
 take six, put them in water to disgorge, then dry them, put 
 them in a stewpan with two onions, half a large carrot, a bouquet 
 of two bay-leaves, one sprig of thyme, a quart of broth if handy, 
 or water, half a spoonful of salt, put them on to boil, and simmer 
 for two hours till done; try if tender with a pointed knife, if so 
 take them out, skim them, trim out all the roots, cut the tongue 
 in two, lengthwise, giving it a little the shape of cutlets, skim 
 the fat from the stock, reduce the whole or part to a demi-glaze, 
 put your pieces on a dish; when ready to serve, make a thin 
 roll of mashed potatoes, and dish them round it, add a little 
 sugar to the demi-glaze, and a small piece of butter, stir round 
 till melted, add the juice of half a lemon, pour boiling hot over 
 the tongue, the sauce ought to adhere thickly to the back of the 
 spoon. 
 
 Observe, dear, how cheaply this dish may be procured, and I assure you 
 it is very excellent; I have tried it with almost all the sauces I have described 
 for cutlets, and have found it good with all ; they are also very good en 
 papillote, like veal cutlets. 
 
 468. SHEEP’S HEARTS.—Proceed exactly as with the 
 calf’s heart, only diminish the time of cooking in proportion to 
 the size; about thirty minutes will be sufficient; serve with any 
 kind of sharp sauce or any ragout of vegetables. 
 
 469. MINCE LAMB WHTII REMAINS .—(See Veal.) 
 Serve with poached eggs over. 
 
 470. REMAINS OF ROAST OR BOILED LAMB, 
 WITH PEAS.—Cut up about two pounds, bones included, in 
 rather small pieces, put into a convenient sized stewpan, add 
 to it two teaspoonfuls of flour, one of chopped onions, one of 
 salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a pint of water, stir gently until 
 near boiling, add one bay-leaf, and one pint of very green peas 
 
250 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 already boiled, simmer and serve. Half an hour is sufficient to 
 prepare this dish; peas left from a previous day can be used, 
 also cauliflower if not too much broken, and gently simmered, 
 also a few mushrooms, or if no vegetables, add a little liaison, 
 and the juice of half a lemon. 
 
 471. LAMB’S FEET are much more delicate than sheep’s 
 trotters, but they are cooked and dressed the same, only in less 
 time. If there are any left cold, cut them in two, put them in 
 a basin, pour over a glass of vinegar, half a ditto of oil, one 
 onion sliced, salt, pepper, fry them for twenty minutes, dip each 
 piece in a batter, and fry a nice yellow colour in fat; serve on a 
 napkin. 
 
 472. LAMB’S HEART.—Six will make a nice dish; stuff 
 like calf’s heart, only adding to it some bits of ham or red 
 tongue; stew and serve with any kind of sauce. 
 
 473. LAMB CUTLETS.—Ten cutlets would be sufficient 
 for a dish, for five persons, and might be cut from one neck, 
 as described for mutton cutlets (page 247), but leaving them as 
 large as possible; that is, about one third less than the mutton; 
 season them lightly with salt and pepper, egg and bread-crumb 
 them over, afterwards beating them gently with a knife, to put 
 them again into shape; then have a little clarified butter upon 
 a plate, into which dip each cutlet separately, afterwards throw¬ 
 ing them into bread-crumbs, giving them another coat, and beat 
 again. Then if wanted of a very nice colour, put four spoon¬ 
 fuls of salad oil into a saute-pan, lay in the cutlets and set 
 them over a sharp fire, turning when required; six or eight 
 minutes would be sufficient to do them nicely; when done, lay 
 them upon a cloth a moment to drain; glaze, and dish them 
 upright, “ en courrone ,” upon your dish, and serve with stewed 
 cucumbers in the centre. 
 
 Lamb cutlets may also be served with stewed peas, French 
 beans, spinach, asparagus, peas, sauce jardiniere, reforme, poive- 
 rade, piquante, or maitre-d’hotel which will be found in the 
 series of sauces; or lamb-cutlets may be broiled instead of sauteed 
 or served a la Maintenon, as directed for veal cutlets. 
 
 474. LAMB CHOPS.—Select a fine loin of lamb with the 
 kidney in it, trim off the flap, and with a very sharp knife cut 
 your chops from half to three quarters of an inch in thickness, 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 251 
 
 cuttin 0, about eight chops from the loin, three of which should 
 have a piece of the kidney attached. I also cut two chops from 
 the chump, which are very excellent eating, although clumsier 
 in shape. Lay three of them upon a gridiron over a rather brisk 
 but very clear fire, for, if smoky, it would entirely spoil the 
 look and flavour of the lamb; and when just warmed through, 
 season upon each side with a teaspoonful of salt, and a quaiter 
 of that quantity of pepper; broil of a nice yellow colour, and 
 serve with fried parsley over if convenient; 01 lay some nice 
 mashed potatoes upon your dish, and serve the chops upon it. 
 
 475. LAMB CHOPS IN PAPER WITH FINE HERBS. 
 —Cut a piece of foolscap paper in the shape of a heart, (and 
 sufficiently large to fold a lamb chop in,) rub a little oil ovei the 
 paper, then season the chop with a teaspoonful of chopped 
 eschalots, one of chopped parsley, a little pepper, salt, and grated 
 nutmeg; wrap the chop in the paper, which plait down at the 
 edo'es, lay it upon a gridiron over a slow fire, turning it fre¬ 
 quently; it will take about twenty minutes to broil properly, 
 when done serve in the paper very hot. 
 
 476. LAMB CHOPS SAUTE.—Put a piece of butter into 
 a clean saute or frying-pan, and when melted lay in two chops 
 rather highly seasoned with pepper and salt; saute it until 
 thoroughly done and but lightly browned, and serve. Should 
 gravy be required, pour off the greater part of the fat, and then 
 stir in half a tablespoonful of flour, add a gill of broth or water, 
 and a little colouring; stir with a wooden spoon, boiling five 
 minutes, finish with an ounce of fresh butter and the juice of 
 half a lemon; shake the pan over the fire until the sauce becomes 
 rather thick, when pour over and serve. 
 
 477. PORK CUTLETS.—Choose a small neck, cut eight 
 cutlets out of it of the same shape as the mutton, only leaving a 
 little more fat on it, season, egg, and bread-crumb, saute in pan, 
 serve with either sauces Robert, poiverade, piquante, tartaie. 
 
 478. PORK CUTLETS WITH PICKLE.—Saut6, broil, 
 or fry the chops, as in the preceding; make about a gill of 
 melted butter, add to it two tablespoonfuls of liquor of piccalilly, 
 and six or eight pieces of the pickle cut small; vvhen very hot 
 put on your dish, and dress your cutlets over, or if for a large 
 dish, dress cutlets in a crown, and sauce in the middle. 
 
252 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 479. PORK CUTLETS SAUTE.—Cut six or eight good- 
 sized cutlets from the neck of the same shape as the mutton, lay 
 them in a buttered saute-pan, season well with pepper and salt, 
 place over the fire; when done, lay them upon a plate, pour 
 some of the fat from the saute-pan, add a good tablespoonful of 
 chopped onions, pass over the fire a minute, then add a teaspoon¬ 
 ful of flour; moisten with half a pint of broth or water, with a 
 piece of glaze added, season a little more, add a bay-leaf and a 
 teaspoonful of vinegar, with one of mustard, mix well, lay in 
 the cutlets until quite hot, when dress upon a dish, sauce over, 
 and sfirve. This sauce is good with, any kind of cutlets, but 
 especially pork. 
 
 ' 480. PORK CUTLETS AUX CORNICHONS.—Cut six 
 or eight cutlets from a middling-sized neck of pork, season well 
 with pepper and salt, dip in eggs well beaten upon a plate, and 
 then into grated crust of bread (not too brown), put two ounces 
 of lard or butter into a saute or frying-pan, lay in the cutlets 
 and saute very slowly; when done, place them upon a dish; 
 keep hot, pour some of the fat from the pan, add a good tea¬ 
 spoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth or 
 water with a piece of glaze, add half a wineglassful of vinegar, a 
 little salt, pepper, and six gherkins in slices, place the cutlets in 
 the pan to warm gently in the sauce, then dress them upon a 
 dish, sauce over, and serve. 
 
 481. PORK CUTLETS SAUCE DEMI-ROBERT.—Cut 
 eight cutlets from a neck as before, season well with pepper and 
 salt, sprinkle chopped onions and parsley over upon both sides, 
 beating the cutlets lightly to make them adhere, then dip them 
 into eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into bread-crumbs; 
 pat them lightly, have some clarified butter in a stevvpan, into 
 ■" r hich dip the cutlets, and again into bread-crumbs, well cover¬ 
 ing them, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, 
 broiling a nice light brown colour; when done, dress them upon 
 a dish. Have ready the following sauce: Demi-Robeiit, cut two 
 large onions into very small dice, put them into a stewpan with 
 an ounce of butter, fry of a light yellow colour, add a teaspoon¬ 
 ful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth and a 
 spoonful of vinegar, season well, let boil, skim, and reduce until 
 rather thick, when add a spoonful of mixed mustard, a little 
 colouring; sauce in the centre of the cutlets, and serve. 
 
iiNTUEES. 
 
 253 
 
 432 . EXCELLENT SAUSAGE CAKES.—Chop some 
 lean pork very fine, having previously detached all the skin and 
 bonef and to every pound of meat add three quarters of a pound 
 of fat bacon, half an ounce of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, tie 
 quarter of a nutmeg grated, six young green chopped onions, 
 and a little chopped parsley; when the whole is we 1 chopped, 
 put into a mortar and pound well, finishing with three eggs; 
 then have ready a pig’s caul, which cut into pieces large enough 
 to fold a piece of the above preparation the size of an egg, 
 which wrap up, keeping the shape of an egg, but rather flattened, 
 and broil very gently over a moderate fire. 
 
 483. PIGS’ FEET.—Procure six pigs’ feet nicely salted, 
 which boil in water, to which you have added a few vegetables, 
 until well done, cut each one in halves, take out the long bone, 
 have some sausage-meat as in the last, and a pig s caul, which 
 cut into pieces each large enough to fold half a foot, well sur¬ 
 rounded with sausage-meat; when well wrapped up broil slowly 
 half an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. Or, when the 
 piers’ feet are well broiled, egg over, and throw them into some 
 grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed a little parsley, 
 broil a nice colour, and serve with a little plain gravy, lhis is 
 called a la Ste. Menehould. 
 
 484. PIGS’ KIDNEYS.—Cut them open lengthwise, season 
 well with pepper and salt, egg over with a paste brush, dip into 
 bread crumbs, with which you have mixed some chopped parsley 
 and eschalot, run a skewer through to keep them open, and bioil 
 for about a quarter of an hour over a good fire; when done, 
 place them upon a dish, have ready an ounce of butter, with 
 which you have mixed the juice of a lemon, a little pepper and 
 salt and a teaspoonful of French or common mustard; place a 
 piece upon each of the kidneys, place in the oven lor one minute, 
 and serve. Pigs’ kidneys may also be sauted as directed for ox 
 
 kidneys. 
 
 DISHES FROM THE REMAINS OF PORK. 
 
 485. HASHED PORK.—Put two spoonfuls of chopped 
 onions into a stewpan, with a wineglassful of vinegar, two cloves, 
 a blade of mace, and a bay-leaf; reduce to half, take out the 
 spice and bay-leaf, add half a pint of broth or water, cut some 
 
254 
 
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 pork previously cooked into thin, small slices, season well upon 
 a dish with pepper and salt, shake a good teaspoonful of flour 
 over, mix altogether, and put into the stewpan; let simmer 
 gently ten minutes, pour out upon your dish, and serve with 
 slices of gherkins in it; a little mustard may be added, if ap¬ 
 proved of, or a little piccalilly with the vinegar is excellent. 
 
 The remains of salt pork, though very palatable cold, if re¬ 
 quired hot may be cut into large thin slices, and placed in a 
 buttered saute or frying-pan, with a little broth, or merely fried 
 in the butter, and served with a puree of winter peas, made by 
 boiling half a pint of peas until tender (tied up in a cloth); when 
 done, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter; season 
 with pepper and salt, add a gill of milk or cream, pour into the 
 dish, and dress the pork over. 
 
 It may also be cut into thin slices and put into a soup plate, 
 and pour some catsup or Harvey sauce over it, and let it remain 
 for half an hour; butter the inside of a pudding basin, and lay 
 some of the remains of pease pudding round it, and then place 
 in the pork, cover it with some of the pudding, place it in a 
 saucepan with a little water to get hot, for about half an hour, 
 and then turn it out and serve. Should you not have quite 
 pork enough, you may make it up with a little sausage-meat or 
 any other kind of meat. 
 
 486. FRITADELLA (twenty receipts in one .')—Put half a 
 pound of crumb of bread to soak in a pint of cold water, take 
 the same quantity of any kind of roast or boiled meat, with a 
 little fat, chop it up like sausage meat, then put your bread in 
 a clean cloth, press it to extract all the water, put into a stew- 
 pan two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped onions, fry 
 for two minutes, then add the bread; stir with a wooden spoon 
 until rather dry, then add the meat, season with a teaspoonful of 
 salt, half the same of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the same of 
 lemon peel, stir continually until very hot; then add two eggs, 
 one at a time, well mix together, and pour on a dish to get cold. 
 Then take a piece as big as a small egg, and roll it to the same 
 shape, flatten it a little, egg and bread-crumb over, keeping the 
 shape; do all of it the same way, then put into a saute-pan a 
 quarter of a pound of lard, or clean fat, or oil; when hot, but 
 not too much so, put in the pieces, and saute a very nice yellow 
 colour, and serve very hot, plain, on a napkin, or on a border of 
 mashed potatoes, with any sauce or garniture you fancy. These 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 255 
 
 can be made with the remains of any kind of meat, poultry, 
 game, fish, and even vegetables; hard eggs, or cold mashed 
 potatoes may be introduced in small quantities, and may be 
 fried instead of sauted, in which case put about two pounds of 
 fat in the frying-pan, and if care is used it will do several times. 
 (See Frying, p. 70.) This is an entirely new and very econo¬ 
 mical and palatable dish, and fit for all seasons, and it once 
 tried would be often repeated; the only expense attending it is 
 the purchase of a small wire sieve for the bread-crumbs. The 
 reason I call it twenty receipts in one is, that all kinds of food 
 may be used for it, even shrimps, oysters, and lobsters. 
 
 487. RAMIFOLLE.—These are a little more expensive than 
 the fritadella, and worthy the table of a crowned head. The 
 flesh of fowls instead of lamb or veal, with the addition of one 
 or two fat livers cut in dice. Proceed as in the former receipt, 
 using the crumb of French rolls, and one or two truffles cut 
 fine: then make some pancake batter, and saute two pancakes 
 about one-eighth of an inch thick, cover one with the meat, &c., 
 and lay the other over, and put by until cold; when so, cut them 
 to any shape you like, but if like cutlets add the small bone ot 
 fowl or pigeon, or the stalk of a sprig of parsley, egg and bread¬ 
 crumb them, and saute them in oil or lard of a nice yellow- 
 colour, and dish them like cutlets, with any of the sauces or 
 garnitures described for mutton cutlets; or if plain, with fued 
 parsley. They may be made of any kind of meat, fish, or 
 poultry. I have latterly had them sent up to table when we 
 have had a few friends, and they have been very much liked; 
 and, on inquiring the name, I baptized them Ramifolle, without 
 any particular meaning, which name having pleased as much as 
 the dish, therefore let them be called Ramifolles. 
 
 They may be made a plainer way with various meats or liver, 
 and spread over one pancake, which roll over, and when cold 
 cut it into three equal lengths, egg, bread-crumb, and saute as 
 
 above. 
 
 488. PRUSSIAN CUTLETS.—Take a^ piece of veal, say 
 one pound, from any part of the calf, free from nerve, with a 
 little fat, chop it up, but not too fine, add to it two teaspoomuls 
 of chopped eschalot, one of salt, half a one of pepper, little 
 grated nutmeg, chop it a little more, and make it into pieces ot 
 the size of two walnuts, to which give the shape of a cutlet; egg 
 
256 
 
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 and bread-crumb each; insert a small bone at the small end, 
 saute it in fat, oil, lard, or butter, give it ten minutes on a slow 
 fire till a nice brown colour, dish and serve with dcmi-glaze 
 sauce, in which you have put a spoonful of Harvey’s, and serve 
 with any brown or white sauce of stewed vegetables you like. 
 Any kind of meat may be used. 
 
 469. CUTLETS A LA VICTIME, or Victimized Cutlets . 
 
 —Here, ma belle amie, is a terrific title for a receipt; but do not fear it, as the 
 time of the Inquisition is past, and you are not likely to become one in par¬ 
 taking of it. I do not recommend it to you on the score of economy, as it is 
 the tip-top of extravagance, but forward it as a curiosity; and also in case 
 similar circumstances should happen which caused its invention, which I must 
 tell you was done by a culinary artist of Louis XVIII., of France, at the 
 palace of the Tuileries, and first partaken of by that intellectual monarch 
 and gourmet, who, at the end of his stormy reign, through a serious illness, 
 was completely paralysed, and, at the same time, the functionary organs of his 
 digestion were much out of order; being a man of great corpulence, and a great 
 admirer of the festive board, much food was required to satisfy his royal appe¬ 
 tite : and the difficulty which his physicians experienced was to supply’ this 
 ■want of food in the smallest compass. The head-cook, on being consulted, 
 begged a few hours for reflection before he could give an answer to so important 
 a question, as nothing but mutton entirely deprived of fat was to compose his 
 Majesty’s meal. After profound study by the chief and his satellites, a voice 
 was heard from the larder, which was a considerable distance from the kitchen, 
 crying, “I have found it, I have found it.” It was that of a young man of 
 the name of Alphonse Pottier, who, in saying so, made his appearance in the 
 kitchen with three beautiful mutton cutlets, tastefully trimmed and tied toge¬ 
 ther ; he then, with a small skewer, fastened them to a spit, and placed them, 
 to the astonishment of all present, close to the bars of the grate: two of the 
 cutlets soon got brown (observe, not a word was to be said until the trial 
 was made), from brown they soon turned black; every one gazed at each 
 other in astonishment, whilst Pottier, with quite a composed countenance, 
 terminated his scientific experiment, took them off the spit, drew the skewer 
 out, cut the string, threw the two burnt cutlets away, and merely served the 
 middle one, which seems to have received all the nutriment of the other two ; 
 it was served and greatly approved of by the physicians, as well as by the 
 gourmet potentate, who, in consequence of two being sacrificed for one, 
 named it, “ Cutlet a la Victime,” and often afterwards used to partake of 
 them when in the enjoyment of health. 
 
 Cut three cutlets from the neck of mutton, about half an inch 
 thick, trim one very nicely, free from fat, leave the other two as 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 257 
 
 cut off, put the trimmed one between the two, flatten them to¬ 
 gether, so that the fat of the outside ones meet over the middle 
 one; tie them together thus, and broil over a very strong fire 
 for ten minutes; remove it from the fire, cut the string, and 
 dish up the middle one only on a very hot dish, with a little salt 
 sprinkled over it. If wanted roasted, proceed as above. 
 
 490. ROAST AND BRAISED CHICKEN, for Entrees. 
 —Have a chicken trussed for boiling; put it on a spit, envelope 
 it as for turkey (No. 381), roast half the time or little less, 
 depending on the fire and the size of the chicken; when done, 
 remove it from the spit, and take off the envelope, and serve with 
 any of the following garniture:—-jardiniere, green peas, oysters, 
 cucumbers, Jerusalem artichokes, white mushroom sauce, ragout 
 of quenelles, juice of tarragon (No. 386), Dutch sauce, with a 
 few heads of cauliflower well boiled, and cut small. 
 
 491. BRAISED CHICKEN.—If not convenient to roast, 
 put a little bacon in a stewpan, then a chicken, a large onion, 
 half a carrot, half a head of celery, two bay leaves, two cloves, 
 one peppercorn, one and a half tablespoonful of salt, a little 
 pepper, a bouquet garni, and a quart of water, let simmer till 
 tender; dish up, after having well drained it, take the string 
 off, pour any of the sauces named in the foregoing receipt over 
 or under them; when the chicken is done, you can make, with 
 the addition of a little more water, a very good puree, and even 
 sauces, and by adding some trimmings of beef, veal, lamb, or 
 mutton, it will make a first-rate clear broth, after being clarified, 
 giving it a proper colour. 
 
 492. CHICKEN PLAIN BOILED.—Put two quarts of 
 water into a stewpan, on the fire, or two ounces of butter, and 
 a tablespoonful of salt and a few vegetables; when boiling, rub 
 ihe breast of the chicken with half a lemon, and put it in to 
 simmer from a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes; if a large 
 fowl, increase the quantity of water, and boil longer; sauce over 
 with parsley and butter, or celery sauce, or any of those for the 
 foregoing: use the broth. 
 
 The remains of any of the above, or of turkey, capon, guinea- 
 fowl, or other poultry, may be dressed as hash, by cutting them 
 into neat pieces; put them into a stewpan, put to it halt a table¬ 
 spoonful of salt, one of flour, half a one of chopped onions, 
 ditto of parsley, a bay-leaf, half a pint of water, a few drops of 
 
 s 
 
258 
 
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 colouring; set to simmer for twenty minutes, and serve; the 
 addition of a few mushrooms is excellent. 
 
 493. POULTRY EN CAPILOTADE.—Put with the 
 pieces of fowl a tablespoonful of oil, and one glass of sherry, 
 into a pan, and proceed as above; when ready to serve, chop a 
 few gherkins, and put in. 
 
 494. INDIAN HASH FOWL.—Make a pint of sauce 
 (p. 81), warm, put into it your pieces of fowl, and serve with 
 rice plain boiled. 
 
 495. FRIED FOWL.—When you have cut the pieces as 
 before, put them into a basin with a little salt and pepper, a spoon¬ 
 ful of oil, and two of vinegar, and a little chopped eschalot, stir 
 them well in it, and let remain for half an hour, have ready a 
 quantity of batter, and take a fork and dip each piece one after 
 the other into it, and then let it drop into the frying-pan, in 
 which is sufficient hot fat to cover them; fry a nice colour, and 
 serve in the form of a pyramid, with fried parsley over, or any 
 sauce you like under. 
 
 496. BLANQUETTE OF FOWL.—Put half a pint of 
 white sauce in a stewpan, with six tablespoonfuls of broth or 
 milk, let it boil; having cut up about a pound of the remains of 
 any kind of poultry, put it in the sauce, warm it, and add two 
 spoonfuls of liaison to it; season with a little salt, pepper, the 
 juice of half a lemon, stir it, and serve. Do not let it boil, or it 
 will curdle, and be unsightly and unpalatable; a little cooked 
 ham or tongue is good in it, also oysters, and served with bread 
 sippets round. A little chopped parsley sprinkled over makes 
 it look very inviting. 
 
 497. MINCED FOWL.—Cut the remains into small dice, 
 with a little ham or tongue, add thick white sauce, season mildly; 
 it can be served with poached eggs over. 
 
 498. SAUTE OF FOWL ,—See the article Saute:, which 
 is applicable to all kinds of poultry; if the fowl be old, it should 
 be previously stewed. 
 
 499. BROILED FOWL WITH SAUCE.— Have a fowl 
 ready plucked and drawn, open the back from one end to the 
 other with a sharp knife, having previously cut the feet off at 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 ‘259 
 
 the second joint; make an incision in the skin, and pass the hone 
 through to fix it internally; lay the fowl on the table, breast down, 
 beat it as flat as possible with a chopper, take out the breast¬ 
 bone, and also the rough part of the interior of the back, espe¬ 
 cially if a large or old fowl; after you have it in a nice shape, 
 season all over with a teaspoonful of salt and half one of pepper, 
 put it on a gridiron, over a slow fire, turning it every five 
 minutes untii done; if a young one, twenty-five minutes ought 
 to do it well, but by trying with the finger on the thick part it 
 will easily be known by even an inexperienced hand; if firm, 
 under the finger it is done, or by pressing the wing, if tender it 
 is also done; put it on dish, and pour over a brown mushroom 
 sauce, or the following: put two spoonfuls of Chili vinegar, two 
 of Harvey’s sauce, two of catsup, one of chopped eschalot, ten of 
 plain melted butter, in a stewpan, and boil for twenty minutes; 
 skim, and serve it under or over. 
 
 500. ANOTHER WAY.—When the fowl is ready for broil¬ 
 ing, put four tablespoonfuls of oil or fat, or one ounce of butter, 
 into a saute pan, lay in the fowl, and saute it gently until a nice 
 yellow colour, and then broil as above; or egg and bread-crumb 
 it over, melting a little butter, and drop a little now and then 
 when on the fire, and with care it will be gold colour ; serve 
 with either sharp, mushroom, tomato, or poiverade sauce on to 
 and under. 
 
 501. A LA TART ARE.—By making about half a pint of 
 sauce a la tartare, and ornament an oval dish by placing on the 
 border cut gherkins, beetroot, olives, place the sauce on it, and 
 lay the fowl very hot over it; thus the fowl is hot and the sauce 
 cold, but together very good. 
 
 502. CROQUETTES OF FOWL.—Take the lean of the 
 remains of a fowl from a previous dinner, and chop it up in 
 small pieces, then put into a stewpan a teaspoonful of chopped 
 eschalots, with half an ounce of butter, pass them for about three 
 minutes over the fire, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, then 
 add the fowl, and a gill of white sauce, or more if not sufficiently 
 moist; season with pepper, salt, and sugar; then stir in the 
 yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir it a little longer on the fire, 
 and turn it out on a dish to cool; when cold, take twelve pieces, 
 each the size of a walnut, roll them out an inch and a half in 
 length, and bread-crumb twice over; fry a good colour, dress 
 
260 
 
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 them on a napkin, or a border of mashed potatoes. Every kind 
 of remains of game, meat, poultry, and fish, may be made the 
 same way: if no sauce, add a little more flour, and use milk or 
 broth. 
 
 503. FRICASSEE OF FOWL.—Divide a fowl into eight 
 pieces, as No. 504, wash it well, put the pieces into a stewpan, 
 and cover with boiling water, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a 
 little pepper, a good bouquet of parsley, four cloves, and a blade 
 of mace; let it boil twenty minutes; pass the stock through a sieve 
 into a basin; take out the pieces of fowl, trim nicely, then put 
 into another stewpan two ounces of butter, with which mix a 
 good spoonful of flour, moisten with stock, put in the pieces of 
 fowl, stir occasionally until boiling, skim well, add twenty button 
 onions, let simmer until the onions are tender, when add a gill 
 of cream, with which you have mixed the yolks of two eggs, 
 stir it quickly over the fire, but do not let it boil; take out the 
 pieces, dress in form of pyramid upon the dish, and serve. 
 
 If you require to warm up the remainder of the above, put it 
 into a basin, which stand in a stewpan in which you have placed 
 a little water, put the cover over, and let it boil gently, by which 
 means the contents of the basin will get warm without turning 
 the sauce; when hot, dish up and serve. The same plan ought 
 to be adopted to warm up any remains of dishes in which a 
 liaison has been introduced; it prevents its turning, which is 
 unavoidable in any other way. 
 
 504. FOWL SAUTE.—Pluck and draw a fowl, cut it into 
 pieces, seven or eight, as you like, that is, the two French wings, 
 the two legs, the breast in one or two pieces, and the back in 
 two; trim nicely, put into a sautepan two ounces of butter, put 
 it on the fire; when hot, lay in your pieces, add a teaspoonful 
 of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, saute gently, turn over; when 
 of a nice gold colour and tender, pour the fat out of the pan, 
 add a glass of sherry and ten spoonfuls of brown sauce, and six 
 of broth, boil ten minutes longer, but very slowly, skim, and 
 serve in form of pyramid; sauce over. 
 
 505. THE SAME, A PLAINER WAY.—When prepared 
 and cooked as above, instead of the sauce, which may not be 
 handy, add a spoonful of flour, which dredge over till it is well 
 mixed, then add half a pint of boiling water, a few drops of 
 colouring or some mushroom catsup, two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 261 
 
 and a half of pepper, add a bouquet of parsley, let it simmer for 
 twenty minutes, skim, taste if your sauce is well seasoned, dish 
 your fowl, reduce your sauce until adhering to the back of the 
 spoon, add the juice of half a lemon, and serve. A few mush¬ 
 rooms or English truffles may be added to it, which is a great 
 improvement; the colour of the sauce ought to be brownish; 
 take out the bouquet, which you have previously squeezed. 
 
 506. SAUTE OF FOWL WITH VEGETABLES.— 
 Proceed exactly as above, only omitting the wine, add to the 
 sauce fifty heads of young green scallions, or some small pieces 
 of carrot and turnip, or a pint of green peas, or cucumbers cut 
 in nice pieces, stew till tender, add a spoonful of powdered sugar, 
 dish the fowl, skim the sauce, take out the parsley; when your 
 sauce is thickish and of a nice colour, pour over the fowl, and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 507. FOWL SAUTE MARENGO, PARISIAN—Cut a 
 fowl (like No. 504), which put into a stewpan, with three table¬ 
 spoonfuls of salad-oil, over a moderate fire, shaking the stewpan 
 round occasionally, until the pieces of fowl are rather browned, 
 when mix in a tablespGonful ot flour, which moisten with a pint 
 of stock or water, let it simmer at the corner of the fire twenty 
 minutes, skimming off the oil as it rises to the surface; add a 
 few blanched mushrooms in slices, season with a little salt, 
 pepper, sugar, and a piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea; 
 take out the fowl, which pile upon your dish, laying the worst 
 pieces at the bottom; reduce the sauce over the fire, keeping it 
 stirred until sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, 
 when pour over the fowl and serve. Use brown sauce, No. 136, 
 if handy. 
 
 508. BLANQUETTES OF TURKEY—Cut off the flesh 
 from the remainder of a roast or boiled turkey into as large thin 
 slices as possible, then break up the bones, which put into a 
 stewpan, with a little lean bacon and an onion, and a small 
 bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, just cover them with 
 water, and boil gently for three quarters of an hour, skim, and 
 pass the stock through a cloth, and with it make a little white 
 sauce, then put the meat into another stewpan lightly seasoned 
 with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; just cover it with 
 gome of the sauce, and warm it gradually, not, however, per* 
 
262 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 mitting it to boil; when very hot, stir in three tablespoonfuls of 
 cream, with which you have mixed the yolk of an egg, and 
 when beginning to thicken, dress it upon a dish with toasted or 
 fried sippets of bread around, cucumbers cut and dressed as 
 directed p. 85, and added to the blanquette, are a very great 
 improvement, as are likewise button mushrooms, or a few slices 
 of cooked ham or tongue. 
 
 For a Blanquette of Fowl, proceed precisely the same. 
 
 509. BOUDINS OF FOWL OR TURKEY.—Cut up the 
 remains of a turkey or fowls into very small dice, with a quarter 
 of a pound of lean cooked ham to each pound of meat, make a 
 stock with the bones as directed in the last; put a teaspoonful 
 of chopped eschalots into a stewpan, with a piece of butter of 
 the size of a walnut, which stir over the fire until the eschalots 
 become a little yellowish, when stir in a good tablespoonful of 
 flour, add the meat and about a pint of the stock, let boil gently 
 a few minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, stir 
 the yolks of two eggs in quickly, and pour it out upon a dish 
 until cold, when divide it into pieces of the size of eggs, which 
 rub into long pieces of the shape and size of flat sausages, which 
 egg and bread-crumb twice over, and fry of a nice brown colour 
 in hot fat or dripping, drain upon a cloth, and serve very hot. 
 
 510. TURBAN OR CROQUETTES A L’EPIGRAMME. 
 —Croquettes are made from the same preparation as the last, 
 but made up into small pieces, two inches in length, and the 
 thickness of your finger; egg, bread-crumb, and fry the same, 
 dress in a circle upon a thin border of mashed potatoes, and 
 serve with some blanquette of turkey or fowl in the centre. 
 
 511. HASHED GOOSE.—Put a spoonful of chopped onions 
 into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, which fry over the fire 
 until becoming rather browned, then stir a tablespoonful of flour, 
 put in the remains of a goose, cut into neat pieces, and well 
 seasoned with pepper and salt; add a pint of stock, let the whole 
 simmer about ten minutes, and it is ready to serve. A little 
 apple sauce may be served separately in a boat, or a couple of 
 apples sliced; a few leaves of bruised dried sage may be stewed 
 with the hash. 
 
 512. STEWED DUCK WITH PEAS.—Truss a duck 
 with the legs turned inside, which put into a stewpan with two 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 263 
 
 ounces of butter, and a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon, 
 cut into small dice, set the stewpan over a .moderate fire, occa¬ 
 sionally stirring its contents until it becomes lightly browned, then 
 add a good tablespoonful of flour, and when well mixed, a pint 
 of stock or water, stir occasionally until boiling, when add twenty 
 button onions and a bunch of parsley with a bay-leaf; let the 
 whole simmer a quarter of an hour, keeping it well skimmed, 
 then add a quart of young peas, and simmer half an hour longer, 
 or until the peas are quite tender, when take out the duck, draw 
 out the string, and dress it upon your dish; remove the parsley 
 and bay-leaf, season the peas and sauce with a little pepper, salt, 
 and sugar, pour over the duck, and serve. 
 
 513.° STEWED DUCK WITH TURNIPS.—Proceed as 
 in the last, but instead of peas, use about forty pieces of good 
 turnips, cut into moderately-sized squares, and previously fried 
 of a yellowish colour, in a little lard or butter, dress the duck 
 upon your dish, season the turnips and sauce with a little salt, 
 pepper, and sugar, and reduce it until thickish, not however to 
 
 break the turnips; sauce over, and serve. 
 
 The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be 
 hashed as directed for goose, but the sage and.apple should.in 
 all cases be omitted; for variety, should peas be in season, a pint 
 freshly boiled may be mixed with the hash at the time of serving. 
 
 514. FRICASSEE OF RABBIT.—Cut a nice young rabbit 
 into neat joints, and put them into lukewarm water to disgorge 
 for half an hour, when drain and put them into a stewpan, with 
 a large onion cut into slices, two cloves, a blade of mace, a little 
 parsley, one bay-leaf, and a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon 
 cut into small dice; cover the whole with water, and let it sim¬ 
 mer twenty minutes, keeping it well skimmed; then pats the 
 stock through a sieve into a basin, take out the pieces of rabbit 
 with the bacon, then in another stewpan have two ounces of 
 butter, with which mix a good tablespoonful of flour, moisten 
 with the stock, and stir over the fire until boiling; then trim 
 neatly the pieces of rabbit, which, with the bacon and twenty 
 button onions, put into the sauce; let the whole simmer until 
 the onions are tender, skimming off all the fat as it rises to the 
 surface; then pour in a gill of cream, with which you have 
 mixed the yolks of two eggs, leave it a moment upon the fire to 
 thicken (but not to boil), take out the rabbit, which place piece 
 upon piece upon your dish, sauce over and serve. 
 
264 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 515. GIBELOTTE OF RABBIT.—Cut up a young rabbit 
 into neat joints, as likewise a quarter of a pound of streaky 
 bacon in small dice, put the bacon into a stewpan, with two 
 ounces of butter, and when a little fried, put in the pieces of 
 rabbit, which saute of a light brown colour, moving them round 
 occasionally with a wooden spoon; then add a good tablespoonful 
 of flour, working it well in, moisten with a pint of water, season 
 with a little pepper and salt, and when beginning to simmer, 
 skim off all the fat, and add thirty button onions, a few blanched 
 mushrooms, and a little brown gravy or colouring; let simmer a 
 quarter of an hour longer, when take out the rabbit, which dress 
 upon your dish; reduce the sauce until it adheres to the back of 
 the spoon, when pour it over the rabbit, and serve. 
 
 516. COMPOTE OF PIGEONS.—Put a quarter of a 
 pound of lean bacon cut into small dice into a stewpan, with half 
 an ounce of butter, and fry a few seconds over the fire, then 
 have three pigeons trussed, with their legs turned inside, which 
 place in the stewpan breast downwards, setting them over the 
 fire until of a light brown colour, moving them round occa¬ 
 sionally; add a tablespoonful of flour, which work well in with 
 a wooden spoon, until becoming browned, when moisten with a 
 pint of water, add a good bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, and 
 about thirty button onions, season with a little pepper and salt, 
 let the whole simmer three quarters of an hour, keeping it well 
 skimmed, then dress the pigeons upon a dish with the bacon and 
 onions round, reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, take out 
 the parsley and bay-leaf, sauce over, and serve. 
 
 517. STEWED PIGEON WITH PEAS.—Cook the 
 pigeons precisely as described in the last, but omitting the onions 
 and bay-leaf, and adding a quart of fresh green peas; when done, 
 dress the pigeons in a dish, pour the sauce and peas over, and 
 serve. 
 
 518. HOT LAMB PIE (raised .)—To make this an oval, a 
 tin or copper pie mould would be required, which you would 
 choose of a size most generally useful. Butter the interior of 
 the mould, which stand upon a baking sheet, then make the 
 following paste: put a quarter of a pound of butter and the 
 same of chopped suet into a stewpan, with three quarters of a 
 pint of water, or more if required, and let the whole boil toge¬ 
 ther one minute, when strain it through a sieve into a basin 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 2G5 
 
 containing two pounds of flour, mixing it first with a spoon, and 
 when cool enough with the hand, until forming a smooth paste; 
 when partly cold roll it out into a sheet half an inch in thick¬ 
 ness with which line the mould, pressing the paste evenly at all 
 parts; have ready cut sufficient small lamb chops from the loin, 
 neatly cut away the bones, and lay them round the interior o 
 the pie alternately with slices of raw potatoes (a quarter of an 
 inch in thickness), season rather highly as you proceed, with 
 pepper, salt, chopped onions, and parsley; make a neat cover 
 with the trimmings of the paste, and bake it rather better tnan 
 two hours in a moderate oven; when done lift the cover, pour 
 out as much of the fat as possible, add a little gravy, and serve. 
 
 519. OTHER VARIOUS PIES. —Hot raised pies may 
 also be made with mutton by following the above directions 
 They are also very good made with fillet of beef cut into thi 
 slices of the size of the lamb chops, or of rump steak, by laying 
 a piece at the bottom, seasoning and filling alternately with 
 potatoes and the meat; veal and ham pies are also excellent, but 
 the potatoes in them had better be omitted, the veal, nowever 
 seasoned and dipped in flour. Pies may also be made with veal 
 sweetbread and ham, but then about three parts of a pint o 
 white sauce should be poured in after the pie is baked. Fowls 
 or rabbits may likewise be cut into joints and put into a stew- 
 pan, with a piece of butter, previously well seasoning them with 
 pepper, salt; and chopped eschalots; cover the stewpan close 
 and leave it twenty minutes over a slow fire, add a pint of white 
 sauce, and simmer ten minutes longer, when cold build them 
 up in the interior of the pie, which cover and bake an lioui in a 
 warm oven. Pies of the above description can of course be 
 made of any size, either large enough for a family meal, or very 
 small and round, for a corner dish for a dinner party; mos 
 people who are in the habit of making them, keep two different 
 
 sized moulds for the purpose. 
 
 520. RUMPSTEAK PIE.—Procure two pounds of rump- 
 steaks* which cut into slices half-an-inch thick, and season we 
 with pepper and salt, dip each piece into flour, and lay them in 
 a smaU pie-dish, finishing the top in the form of a dome; add a 
 wineglassful of water, then have ready half a pound of half-putt 
 paste, cut off a small piece, which roll into a band, and lay 
 round the edge of the dish, having previously wetted it with * 
 
266 
 
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 paste-brush dipped in water, then roll out the remainder of the 
 paste to about the size of the dish, damp the band of paste upon 
 the dish, and lay the other piece over, make a hole with a knife 
 at the top, press the edges evenly down -with your thumbs, trim 
 the pie round with a knife, egg over the top with a paste-brush, 
 and ornament it with the trimmings of the paste, according to 
 fancy; bake it rather better than an hour in a moderate oven, 
 and serve either hot or cold. 
 
 521. YEAL AND HAM PIE.—Cut about a pound and a 
 half of veal into thin slices, as also a quarter of a pound of 
 cooked ham; season the veal rather highly with white pepper 
 and salt, with which cover the bottom of the dish, then lay over 
 a few slices of ham, then the remainder of the veal, finishing 
 with the remainder of the ham, add a wineglassful of water, 
 and cover and bake as directed for beefsteak pie: a bay-leaf 
 will be an improvement. 
 
 522. MUTTON PIE.—Procure the chumps of three loins 
 of mutton, from which cut the meat in moderately thin slices, 
 put a layer at the bottom of the dish, which season well with 
 chopped parsley, eschalots, pepper, and salt; then put a layer of 
 slices of raw potatoes, and again a layer of mutton, seasoning as 
 before, proceeding thus to the top, which form a dome, finish¬ 
 ing with mutton, cover with paste, and bake as directed for 
 rumpsteak pie. 
 
 523. ANOTHER METHOD.—Cut six chops from a loin 
 of mutton, from which trim as much of the fat as possible; 
 season them well with salt and pepper, and lay them round in 
 your pie-dish, the thick part uppermost; put two onions, in 
 slices, in the centre, over which iay four middling sized potatoes, 
 each cut in halves, pour in a wineglassful of water, cover with 
 paste, and bake as the last. 
 
 524. LAMB PIE.—Cut a small neck of lamb into chops, 
 which must not be too fat, season them lightly with pepper and 
 salt, and lay them in your pie-dish, with a few new potatoes in 
 
 - „ fittle water, then cover and bake as directed 
 
 52(5. CHICKEN PIE.—Cut up a nice plump chicken into 
 joints, which lay upon a dish, and season lightly with chopped 
 parsley, white pepper, and salt, then lay the back, cut int 
 
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 267 
 
 tliree pieces, at the bottom of a pie-dish with the two legs on 
 either side; have half a pound of cooked ham or bacon in slices, 
 a layer of which cover over, then lay in the two wings, and over 
 them the breast, cut into two pieces, which, with the remainder 
 of the ham or bacon, form into a dome in the middle, pour half 
 a pint of white sauce over, if handy, or a little broth or water, 
 cover with paste, and bake as directed for the last. If no white 
 sauce, dip each piece lightly in flour. 
 
 526. GIBLET PIE.—When the giblets have been taken 
 from the goose as directed in No. 393, place them, with the 
 exception of the liver, but with the pinions, feet, head, and 
 neck, into boiling water to blanch; remove the skin from the 
 feet and beak, put into a stewpan a piece of butter the size of a 
 walnut, one onion cut in slices, a bay-leaf, a little salt, peppei, 
 and sugar: place it on the fire until the onion is brown, place 
 in the giblets with the head cut in two, let them remain on the 
 fire for about three minutes, stirring them round; then add 
 one quart of boiling water and let them stew gently for two 
 hours, remove from the fire and let them get cold. I ake a pie- 
 dish and place a piece of steak on the bottom, then place over 
 that the giblets with the liver, and steak again over them, add 
 the liquor the giblets were stewed in, season and covei with 
 half puff paste. 
 
 527. KABBIT PIE.—Cut a nice rabbit into joints, splitting 
 the head in halves, and lay them in lukewarm water half an 
 hour to disgorge, then dry them upon a cloth, season well with 
 pepper, salt, chopped eschalots, parsley, two bay-leaves, and a 
 spoonful of flour; have also three-quarters of a pound of un¬ 
 cooked streaked bacon, cut into square pieces the size of walnuts, 
 build up the pieces of rabbit and bacon together, in a pie dish, 
 commencing with the worst pieces, and forming a dome; pour 
 in a little water, cover with paste, and bake as directed for 
 rumpsteak pie. 
 
 528. PIGEON PIE.—Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a 
 pound of rumpsteak, cut into slices not too thin, seasoned with 
 a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, and dipped into flour; have 
 ready picked and drawn a couple of pigeons, cut off the feet, 
 turn the legs in, fold up the pinions of the wings, and lay them 
 breast to breast upon the meat, have the yolks of four hard oc led 
 eggs, which put at the sides, sprinkle a little pepper and salt 
 
268 
 
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 over the pigeons, lay a bay-leaf upon the top, pour in a little 
 water, cover with paste, stick the feet in the top, and bake as 
 directed for the last. The pigeons may be stuffed with a little 
 veal stuffing, if handy. 
 
 529. PARTRIDGE PIE.—Line the bottom of a pie-dish 
 with slices of veal, cut moderately thick, and rather lightly 
 seasoned with white pepper and salt; have ready picked, drawn, 
 and trussed, a couple of young partridges, pour one glass of 
 sherry over the veal, one of water, and lay in the partridges 
 breast to breast, laying a piece of fat bacon over each, cover 
 with paste, sticking the feet of the partridges in the top of the 
 pie, and bake as before. 
 
 530. GROUSE PIE.—Roast, very underdone, a couple of 
 nice plump grouse; when cold, cut into joints, being the two 
 wings, two legs, and the breasts into two pieces each, season 
 them lightly, and lay them in a pie-dish, building them to form 
 a dome, then break up the back-bone and other trimmings, 
 which put into a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, a bay-leaf, an 
 onion in slices, a few sprigs of parsley, three or four whole all¬ 
 spice, set the stewpan over the fire a few minutes until the wine 
 boils, when add half a pint of brown sauce, and half a pint of 
 broth, stir it over a fire until again reduced to half a pint, strain 
 it through a sieve, over the grouse; when quite cold cover with 
 paste, as directed for rumpsteak pie, and bake in a very hot 
 oven; about half an hour would be sufficient, as the paste 
 requires to be laid on thinner, the contents of the pie having 
 been previously cooked. 
 
 Pies may be made from the remains of any poultry or game, in the same 
 manner as here described; only, if poultry, use white sauce instead of brown, 
 and omit the wine. If no sauce, roll each piece in flour, and make only the 
 gravy, which place in it. 
 
 The remains of any joint of meat may likewise be served in a pie, by cutting 
 the meat in slices, well seasoning, laying them in a pie-dish, and pouring half 
 a pint of sharp sauce over; or use broth, or even water highly seasoned. 
 
 531. SEA PIE.—Put into a stewpan two pounds of beef¬ 
 steak, season it with pepper and salt, a small bit of celery chopped 
 up, or a pinch of ground celery seed, a pinch of pounded basil, 
 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a small onion cut in slices; 
 put on this six larks trussed for roasting, then make a piece of 
 paste with suet, about one inch thick, and round like the stew - 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 269 
 
 pan; put half a pint of water or stock in the stewpan,. and cover 
 the larks with the paste, pressing it against the sides of the 
 stewpan; simmer for one hour and serve, by putting a knife 
 round the sides of the stewpan to detach the paste, and turn it 
 over on a dish. 
 
 532. EEL PIE.—Skin and cleanse three good-sized eels, 
 which cut into pieces about two inches in length, put a good- 
 sized bunch of parsley, thyme, and three bay-leaves, all tied 
 together, into a stewpan, with an onion, into which you have 
 stuck four cloves, a glass of port wine, and a pint ot broth, lay 
 in the pieces of eels, and set them upon the fire to simmer for 
 ten minutes, take them out, laying them upon a cloth to drain, 
 skim off all the fat from the stock the eels were cooked in, to 
 which add rather more than half a pint of brown sauce, let the 
 whole boil until reduced to three parts of a pint, when dress the 
 pieces of eels up in a pie-dish, strain the sauce over through a 
 sieve, and when cold, cover with paste, as directed for rumpsteak 
 pie, and bake about an hour in a moderate oven; serve it hot. If 
 for a small pie, they may be used raw, and season accordingly, 
 after having rolled each piece in flour. 
 
 533. BEEFSTEAK PUDDING.—Put a pound of flour 
 upon a dresser, with which mix half a pound of beef suet, ver} 
 finely chopped, make a hole in the middle, into which put a. tea¬ 
 spoonful of salt, and sufficient water to form a rather stiffish 
 paste, mix it well together, using a little more flour to dry it 
 and prevent its sticking; then lightly butter the interior of a 
 round-bottomed pudding basin, roll out two-thirds of the paste 
 to half an inch in thickness, with which line the basin; ha\e 
 ready cut into slices, about the size of the palm of the hand, and 
 a quarter of an inch in thickness, two pounds of rumpsteak, 
 with a little of the fat included; fay them upon a dish, season 
 with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of black pepper, spi inkle 
 a little flour over, move them about a little until each piece is 
 well covered with flour and seasoning; then lay them within 
 the paste, also putting in whatever seasoning may remain upon 
 the dish, (some add two dozen of oysters, blanched and bearded, 
 which is excellent,) pour a gill of water over, moistening the 
 edges of the paste; then roll out the remainder of the paste to 
 form a lid, which place over, pressing it down with the thumb, 
 then tie the basin in a pudding-cloth, and put into a saucepan 
 
270 
 
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 9 
 
 containing about a gallon of boiling water, and keep continually 
 boiling for nearly two hours, adding a little more water occa¬ 
 sionally, to keep up the quantity; then take it up, untie the 
 cloth, run a sharp-pointed knife into the pudding, and if the 
 meat feels tender it is done (if not, it will require more boiling), 
 turn it over upon your dish, lift the basin carefully from it, and 
 serve, without opening the pudding to add gravy, as many 
 persons do, for a pudding made as above ought to be full of gravy 
 when cut at table. 
 
 534. MUTTON PUDDING-.—Line a pudding-basin with 
 paste, as directed in the last; then have ready cut into slices, 
 the meat from two loin-chumps of mutton, which lay upon a 
 dish, and season with a teaspoonful of chopped onions, the same 
 of chopped parsley, rather more than half that quantity of black 
 pepper, and salt in proportion; then put a layer of meat into the 
 pudding, then a layer of raw potatoes cut into slices; proceeding 
 thus until you have filled it up, but finishing with meat, cover 
 it up as in the last, likewise tie it in a napkin, and boil, but 
 rafeher better than two hours would be sufficient: serve as before 
 directed. 
 
 535. LAMB PUDDING.—If convenient, procure the entire 
 ribs of a lamb, sawing off the breast almost close to the lean 
 part of the neck; the breast may be cooked as directed (No. 
 351); cut the neck into rather thin cutlets, which season lightly 
 with white pepper, salt, and a little chopped parsley and onions; 
 you have previously lined a pudding-basin with paste as before, 
 fill it with the meat thus prepared, intermixing a few new pota¬ 
 toes cut in slices, finish the pudding, boil, and serve as before 
 directed. 
 
 536. VEAL PUDDING.—Cut two pounds of veal from 
 any part of the leg into slices, about the size of the palm of the 
 hand, and a quarter of an inch in thickness, put two ounces of 
 butter into a frying-pan, and when melted lay in the veal, and 
 a few slices of streaked bacon, season the whole with pepper and 
 a little salt, add one bay-leaf, and a few sprigs of thyme; place 
 the pan over a slow fire, saute the veal gently for a quarter of 
 an hour; then take it from the fire, and leave it in the pan until 
 cold, then have a pudding-basin lined with paste as before, lay 
 in the veal and bacon, pouring the gravy over, cover, and boil 
 as before, but an hour would be sufficient. 
 
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 271 
 
 536. * VEAL KIDNEY PUDDING.—Make the paste the 
 same as for No. 533, using veal suet, line the basin with the. 
 paste, and then place a layer of slices of ham, then of veal 
 kidney, and thus alternately until full, season with salt, pepper, 
 and cover over with paste, and boil like the other puddings. 
 
 537. PORK PUDDING.—Line a pudding-basin with paste 
 as before, and spread three-quarters of a pound of sausage-meat 
 of an equal thickness over the interior, have a pound and a half 
 of lean pork, from the leg if possible, cut into square pieces ot 
 the size of walnuts, which season rather highly with pepper, 
 salt, a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, and half that quantity 
 of dried sage; put the meat into the centre of the pudding, coyer 
 over with a quarter of a pound more sausage-meat, ovei which 
 put on the cover of paste, tie it in a cloth, and boil two hours 
 and a half, as directed for beefsteak pudding. 
 
 538. KIDNEY PUDDING.—Procure one ox or eight 
 mutton kidneys, which cut into slices the thickness of half-a- 
 croWn piece; lay them upon a dish, seasoning well with black 
 pepper and salt, and shaking one ounce of flour over, mix all 
 well together, to absorb the flour and seasoning; then have a 
 pudding-basin, lined as directed for beefsteak pudding, finish, 
 boil, and serve as there directed. 
 
 A pudding made with one pound of steak and a beef kidney 
 
 is also very excellent. 
 
 539. RABBIT PUDDING.—Cut a rabbit up in joints, 
 (splitting the head in halves,) and lay them in a basin cf luke¬ 
 warm water an hour to disgorge; line a puadiiig-basin with 
 paste as directed for rumpsteak pudding, dry the pieces of rabbit 
 upon a cloth, and lay them in the pudding with half a pound of 
 streaked bacon cut into square pieces, and seasoning rather 
 highly with chopped eschalots, salt, pepper, and chopped paisley; 
 cover, tie it in a cloth, boil it two hours, and serve as before 
 directed. 
 
 540. SUET PUDDING.—Put a pound of sifted flour in a 
 basin, with half a pound of beef suet finely chopped, add two eggs 
 with a pinch of salt, and a quarter of a pint of water, beat well 
 together with a wooden spoon, making a rather thick batter, flour 
 a pudding-cloth, which lay in a small round-bottomed basin, 
 pour in the mixture, tie the cloth tightly, and put the pudding 
 in to boil, with a joint of salt beef, if you have one, to serve the 
 
272 
 
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 pudding with, or if not, in boiling water; an hour and a quarter 
 would be sufficient to cook it; when done, untie the cloth, turn 
 the pudding over upon your dish, and serve very hot. 
 
 541. YORKSHIRE PUDDING.—Put six tablespoonfuls 
 of flour into a basin, with six eggs, a pinch of salt, and a quarter 
 of a pint of milk, mix well together with a wooden spoon, adding 
 the remaining three-quarters of a pint of milk by degrees; you 
 have previously set a shallow tin dish under a piece of roasting 
 beef before the fire; an hour before serving pour in the batter, 
 leaving it under the meat until quite set and rather browned 
 upon the top, when turn the pudding over upon the dish you 
 intend serving it upon, and again place it before the fire until 
 the other side is rather browned, when it is ready to serve with 
 the meat. 
 
 This pudding is very excellent baked under a small piece of 
 beef of about five or six pounds. It is also frequently baked 
 beneath a shoulder of mutton; and sometimes in an oven separate, 
 if the fire is not large enough, (with a few spoonfuls of gravy 
 added). 
 
 542. TOAD IN A HOLE.—Make a batter as directed for 
 the Yorkshire pudding, but with the addition of a spoonful more 
 flour and six ounces of chopped beef suet; butter a rather deep 
 baking-dish, into which pour the batter, lay a solid piece of lean 
 gravy beef about three pounds, in the centre, or a beef skirt, and 
 bake it an hour and a half in a hot oven. 
 
 Another method is to cut up about three pounds of rumpsteaks 
 into about six pieces, and putting them in the batter at various 
 distances apart, but the former method is most common. 
 
 Any remains of cooked beef, veal, mutton, pork, roasted or 
 boiled, salt or fresh, or game and fowl, cut in pieces, and sea¬ 
 soned to taste, may be used in this dish, by adding it to the batter 
 when in the dish. 
 
 543. FISH PUDDING.—Cut a slice of salmon half an inch 
 thick, and weighing about one pound; remove the skin and 
 bone, mix a saltspoonful of salt, half one of pepper, one of finely 
 chopped onions and parsley, and a spoonful of flour in a plate, 
 and rub the fish with it; make half a pound of flour into paste, 
 roll it half an inch thick, place a pudding-cloth in a middle size 
 basin, flour the cloth, lay the paste in it, place in the salmon with 
 a little water and white wine, and a bay-leaf, bring the paste 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 273 
 
 paste over so that the edges meet in the middle, having reserved 
 a small piece which you have rolled out to place over the joint, 
 after having wetted it. Tie the cloth, but not too tight, round, 
 the paste; place it in a gallon of boiling water, let it simmer for 
 one hour and a half, take it out, remove the cloth, and serve it 
 with shrimp sauce over or separate. Fillets of soles, mackerel, 
 turbot, or other fish, may be used. 
 
 544. PEASE PUDDING.—Tie a pint of split peas in a 
 cloth, leaving them room to swell, but not more; put them into 
 a stewpan of cold water, where let them boil nearly half an 
 hour until tender, but not at all watery (which they would not 
 be if allowed only sufficient room to swell, and no more); then 
 turn them o,ut of the cloth, rub them through a hair sieve into 
 a basin, after- which add a quarter of a pound of butter, season 
 with a little white pepper and salt, and mix all well together, 
 with three yolks and one whole egg; lightly flour a pudding- 
 cloth, which lay in a small round-bottomed basin, pour in the 
 mixture, tie up the cloth, and put the pudding to boil for an 
 hour in a saucepan of boiling water; when done, turn it from 
 the cloth upon a dish, and serve with a joint of boiled pork. 
 
 545. FOWL PILLAU.—Put one pound of the best Patna 
 rice* into a fryingpan with two ounces of butter, which keep 
 moving over a slow fire, until the rice is lightly browned; then 
 have ready a fowl trussed as for boiling, which put into a stew- 
 pan, with five pints of good broth; pound in a mortar about 
 forty cardamum seeds with the husks, half an ounce of coriander 
 seeds, and sufficient cloves, allspice, mace, cinnamon, and pep¬ 
 percorns, to make two ounces in the aggregate, which tie up 
 tightly in a cloth, and put into the stewpan with the fowl; let 
 it boil slowly until the fowl is nearly done, then add the rice, 
 which let stew until quite tender and almost dry; have ready 
 four onions, which cut into slices the thickness of half-crown 
 pieces, sprinkle over with flour, and fry, without breaking them, 
 of a nice brown colour, have also six thin slices of bacon, curled 
 and grilled, and two eggs boiled hard; then lay the fowl upon 
 your dish, which cover over with the rice, forming a pyramid, 
 garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and the hard-boiled eggs 
 cut into quarters, and serve very hot. 
 
 * All rice should he well washed before using. 
 
 T 
 
274 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 The bag of spice must be preserved, as it will answer the 
 same purpose half a dozen times. 
 
 Fowl pillaus are frequently served with two ounces of Ma¬ 
 laga raisins, which are added at the same time and stewed with 
 the rice. 
 
 546. MUTTON PILLAU.—Trim a neck of mutton, by 
 sawing off the tips of the ribs and taking away the chine bone; 
 then lay it in a stewpan, with a bag of spice, as in the last, and 
 cover with three quarts of stock, let it simmer very gently two 
 hours; then take out the mutton, which keep hot upon a dish, 
 skim off all the fat from the stock it was boiled in, to which add 
 a pound of Patna rice, which stew until tender and very dry; 
 then lay it over the mutton, garnish with fried onions and hard- 
 boiled eggs, as in the last, and serve very hot. 
 
 547. CHICKEN CURRY.—Cut up a chicken into ten pieces, 
 that is, two wings, two pieces of the breast, two of the back, and 
 each leg divided into two pieces at the joints; then cut up a 
 middling-sized onion into very small dice, which put into a 
 stewpan, with an ounce of butter and a very small piece of garlic, 
 stir them over the fire until sauteed well; then add two tea¬ 
 spoonfuls of curry powder and one of curry paste, which well 
 mix in; then add half a pint of good broth, let it boil up; then 
 lay in the pieces of chicken, cover it over, and put to stew very 
 gently for half an hour, stirring it round occasionally; if getting 
 too dry add a little more broth (or water); when done, the flesh 
 should part easily from the bones, and the sauce should adhere 
 rather thickly; season with the juice of half a lemon and a pinch 
 of salt, and serve, with plain boiled rice upon a separate dish. 
 
 Ducklings can be cooked in the same way. 
 
 548. CHICKEN CURRY WITH PASTE.—Cut a chicken 
 up as described in the last, which put into a stewpan, with two 
 ounces of clarified butter, put it over the fire, stirring occasionally 
 until the pieces of the chicken are lightly browned, then pour 
 off the butter and fat from the chicken, add three teaspoonfuls 
 of curry paste and a pint of good broth, mix all well together, 
 place the stewpan again upon the fire, stewing its contents 
 slowly for about twenty minutes, when serve, as directed in the 
 last. 
 
 549. RABBIT CURRY.—Cut up a rabbit into smallish 
 pieces, splitting the head in halves, cut up two large onions and 
 
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 275 
 
 one apple into very small dice, which fry in a stewpan with two 
 ounces of butter; when nicely browned, add a good tablespoonful 
 of curry powder, a teaspoonful of curry paste, half one of flour, 
 and a pint of stock, mix well together, then put in the rabbit, 
 with half a pound of streaked bacon, cut into square pieces the 
 size of filbert-nuts, let the whole stew very gently upon a very 
 slow fire (or put the stewpan closely covered down into a warm 
 oven) three-quarters of an hour; when done, which you may 
 ascertain by trying with the point of a knife if the flesh will 
 leave the bone easily, pour off as much of the fat as possible, and 
 turn it out upon your dish; serve with rice separately. 
 
 The curry sauce should be sufficiently thick to envelope each 
 piece of the rabbit. 
 
 550. VEAL CURRY.—Cut up about two pounds of lean 
 veal into small square pieces, half the size of walnuts, then put 
 a large onion cut into small dice in a stewpan, with a clove ot 
 garlic and one apple cut into slices, and one ounce of butter; 
 keep them stirred over a moderate lire, until lightly browned, 
 when stir in a good tablespoonful of mild curry powder, half one 
 of flour, mix well, then add a pint of water, let it just boil up, 
 put in the veal, which stir round two or three times, to mix 
 with the curry, and put the stewpan over a slow fire, or in a 
 warm oven for an hour and a half; when done (which you may 
 ascertain by pressing a piece between the finger and thumb, if 
 done it would be quite tender and separate), add the juice of a 
 lemon and a little salt, stir the whole round three or four times 
 very gently, to mix, and turn it out upon your dish, serve with 
 rice separately. 
 
 Should you require-a veal curry made in less time, the better 
 plan would be to saute the veal in butter previously, then putting 
 it with its own gravy to the curry, and boiling the whole gently 
 a quarter of an hour. 
 
 To make a veal curry with curry paste, saute the veal in 
 butter; when becoming slightly browned, add a good table¬ 
 spoonful of the paste, with half a pint of water, leave it to stew 
 about half an hour, when it will be ready to serve. 
 
 Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork curries are made precisely the 
 same as directed for veal curries. 
 
 551. BREAST OF VEAL CURRY.—Procure a piece of 
 breast of veal about three pounds in weight, with the bones and 
 tendons attached, which chop into about twenty square pieces, 
 
 T 2 
 
276 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 and put into a stewpan, with two quarts of water, and a bunch 
 of parsley, thyme, and bay leaves; let it simmer three hours at 
 the corner of the fire, skimming off all the fat, then take out the 
 meat and strain the broth into a basin; in another stewpan have 
 a middling-sized onion (cut into small dice), with an ounce of 
 butter, saute them rather brown, then add a good tablespoonful 
 of curry powder, mix well, and pour in the broth, then add the 
 meat, which let stew in the curry one hour longer, until the 
 meat is very tender, and the sauce becomes rather thick; pour 
 off as much fat as possible, season with a little salt and the j uice 
 of a lemon, which stir in very gently, take the meat out as whole 
 as possible, dress them upon your dish, pour the sauce over and 
 serve; rice separately. 
 
 552. BREAST OF MUTTON CURRY.—Cut up a 
 breast of mutton, bones and all, into pieces about two inches in 
 length and one in width, which put into a stewpan with two 
 quarts of water, to simmer for about two hours, when proceed 
 precisely as directed in the last. 
 
 553. BREAST OF LAMB CURRY is made very similar 
 to the preceding, and is considered a great treat to those who 
 are fond of curries. Curry paste may be used to advantage, 
 either by itself, or mixed equally with the powder. There being 
 a great quantity of fat in the breast, great care should be taken 
 to remove it from the curry every available opportunity. I 
 always use Captain White’s curry paste. 
 
 554. LAMB’S HEAD CURRY.—Procure a lamb’s head, 
 which split in halves, break the bones at the nostrils, and put 
 into lukewarm water an hour to disgorge, previously taking out 
 the brains, which likewise disgorge in the water, then put the 
 head into a stewpan well covered with water, let it boil two 
 hours, when take it out, separate the bones from the flesh, which 
 cut into small pieces. In another stewpan have a middling¬ 
 sized onion cut into small dice, which set upon the fire, adding 
 two ounces of butter, and saute them a light-brown colour, when 
 add a tablespoonful of curry powder, and half that quantity of 
 curry paste, mix well together, then put in the pieces of head 
 with half a pint of broth, and stew gently for half an Lour. 
 Whilst the curry is stewing, take the brains from the water, and 
 put them into a stewpan of boiling water, let simmer five minutes, 
 after which chop very fine, and put them into a basin with a 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 277 
 
 good handful of bread-crumbs, a little white pepper, salt, and 
 chopped parsley, mix well together with an egg, and form it 
 into six little round balls, which egg and bread-crumb twice 
 over, and fry in a little hot lard, of a very light brown colour, 
 then dress the curry upon a dish, lay the brain-croquets round, 
 and serve with rice separately. 
 
 555. CALF’S HEAD CURRY is usually made with the 
 remains left from a previous dinner; if about two pounds of 
 meat remaining upon the bone, cut it whilst cold into thin slices, 
 then cut two onions and two apples into small dice, which put 
 into a stewpan with an ounce of butter .and hall a clove of 
 garlic cut in slices, stir with a wooden spoon over the fire until 
 sauteed nice and brown, when add a tablespoonful of curry 
 powder, half one of flour, mix well, then pour in a pint of broth, 
 add a little salt, and boil twenty minutes, keeping it well stirred; 
 then put in the calf’s head, and let it remain upon the fire until 
 quite hot through; add the juice of half a lemon, which stir in 
 very gently without breaking the meat, dress it upon a dish, 
 and serve with rice separately. Curry sauce may be passed 
 through a sieve previously to putting the head in. 
 
 556. CALF’S FEET CURRY.—After boiling a set of feet 
 for calf’s feet jelly, the feet may be served in curry as follows: 
 separate the feet from the bones whilst the feet are warm; when 
 cold, cut them into small square pieces, and proceed exactly as 
 in the last; or use curry sauce. 
 
 557. CALF’S TAIL CURRY.—Cut up calves’ tails into 
 joints, which put into a stewpan, with a small piece of lean ham 
 and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; cover them with 
 three pints of cold water, and let simmer about two hours, until 
 tender, keeping them well skimmed; when done, strain the 
 stock through a hair sieve into a basin, and put the tails upon a 
 plate; then proceed as directed for calf’s head curry, but using 
 the stock from the tails, and reducing the curry until rather 
 thickish before adding the tails. 
 
 558. OX TAIL CURRY is made precisely as in the last, 
 but one tail would be sufficient, and it would require double the 
 time to stew; or use curry sauce. 
 
 559. TRIPE CURRY.—Cut two large onions into very 
 small dice, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, 
 and stir over the fire until brown, when well mix in a table- 
 
278 
 
 ENTREES 
 
 spoonful of curry powder and half that quantity of paste; add a 
 pint of broth, and two pounds of double tripe cut into strips; let 
 the whole stew very slowly one hour, keeping it well skimmed, 
 when dress it upon a dish, and serve with rice separately. 
 
 560. LOBSTER. CURRY.—Procure a large boiled lobster, 
 break the shell, and take out the flesh in as large pieces as pos¬ 
 sible, cutting the tail into about six pieces, and the claws of a 
 proportionate size; then cut two onions into small slices, which 
 put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, fry them of a light 
 yellow colour, then mix in a good tablespoonful of mild curry 
 paste (or half powder and half paste), and add a pint of good 
 broth, then boil it up over the fire until becoming a little 
 thickish, when put in the lobster, stir the whole round, then 
 cover the stewpan closely, and put it into a moderate oven half 
 an hour, by which time the curry would be of a proper con- 
 sistency, and the lobster very delicately tender; add the juice 
 of half a lemon, and serve with rice separately. If no oven, it 
 may be very gradually stewed over a slow fire, in which case it 
 might want moistening occasionally. 
 
 561. CRAB CURRY.—Prepare the onions and curry pre- 
 cisely as in the last, but adding the flesh of a crab (broken 
 small) instead of a lobster; let it stew over the fire about twenty 
 minutes, add the juice of half a lemon, and serve as before. 
 
 562. OYSTER CURRY.—Blanch and beard six dozen of 
 oysters, leaving the oysters in their own liquor; then cut two 
 middling-sized onions into small dice, and saute it in a stewpan, 
 with an ounce of butter; when done, mix in two teaspoonfuls of 
 curry powder and one of curry paste, and pass it through a 
 tammy—it ought to be thick; then add the oysters with their 
 liquor, and keep stirring over the fire until the oysters become 
 enveloped in a thick sauce, which ought to be in two minutes, 
 when turn them out upon your dish, and serve with rice 
 separately. 
 
 563. PRAWN CURRY. — Procure sufficient prawns to 
 weigh about a pound when picked; put half of a small onion 
 chopped very fine into a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, 
 stir them over the fire until becoming rather yellowish; then 
 add two teaspoonfuls of mild but rather piquant curry paste, 
 mixing the whole gradually with half a pint of good broth; then 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 279 
 
 put in the prawns, and stew gently about a quarter of an hour, 
 when they will be ready to serve; rice separate. 
 
 If no curry paste, powder may be used, but the paste is far 
 preferable. 
 
 Shrimps may also be curried in the same way, but they are 
 in general so very salt, that they require to be well soaked. 
 
 564. SALMON CURRY.— Have two slices of salmon, 
 weighing about a pound each, which cut into pieces of the size 
 of walnuts, cut up two middling-sized onions, which put into a 
 stewpan, with an ounce of butter and a clove of garlic cut in 
 thin slices, stir over the fire until becoming rather yellowish; 
 then add a tablespoonful of curry powder and half that quantity 
 of curry paste, mix all well together with a pint of good broth, 
 beat up and pass through a tammy into a stewpan, put in the 
 salmon, which stew about half an hour, pour off as much of the 
 oil as possible; if too dry, moisten with a little more broth, mix¬ 
 ing it gently, and serve as usual, with rice separate. 
 
 Salmon curry may also be made with the remains left from a 
 previous dinner, in which case reduce the curry sauce until 
 rather thick before putting in the salmon, which only requires 
 to be made hot in it. 
 
 The remains of a turbot may also be curried in the same way, 
 and also any kind of fish. 
 
 565. FILLET OF SOLE CURRY.—Fillet two nice soles, 
 and cut each fillet into five pieces (slantwise); then in a stew¬ 
 pan have a small onion chopped fine and fried; to which add a 
 tablespoonful of curry paste, or an equal quantity of paste ana 
 powder; when well mixed, put in the fillets of soles, with just 
 sufficient broth to cover them; let it boil rather fast for ten 
 minutes, when the sauce will become sufficiently thick to 
 envelop the fish, season with the juice of half a lemon, and serve 
 with rice separately. 
 
 Fillets of haddocks or whitings are curried precisely the same. 
 
 566. SKATE CURRY.—Plain boil about two pounds of 
 skate with a piece of the liver, which put upon a dish without a 
 napkin, previously well draining off the water; whilst the nsh 
 is boiling cut two onions in slices, which put into a stewpan, 
 with an ounce of butter, and fry of a lightish brown colour, then 
 mix in a tablespoonful of curry powder with a tsaspoonful of 
 flour, and a pint of good broth, set it upon the fire, keeping it 
 
280 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 stirred, and when boiling, put in a good-sized apple cut into 
 slices, let boil until it is reduced to about half, when rub it 
 through a tammy or hair sieve, pour it again into a stewpan, 
 and when hot, pour over the fish, and serve with rice separately. 
 This being so very delicate, requires great care in cooking it, or 
 it will get very unsightly. 
 
 ENTREES OF GAME. 
 
 567. BROILED PHEASANT —Having drawn a pheasant, 
 lay it upon its breast, and pass a knife down the backbone, upon 
 each side, taking it entirely out, then cut off the feet at the 
 knuckle, break the leg and thigh-bones, turning the leg inside, 
 separate the breast joint of the wing, pressing the bird quite 
 fiat, then saute it in a sautepan, with a little lard or dripping, 
 and when browned on both sides, and about half done, place it 
 upon a plate, season well with salt and pepper, egg and bread¬ 
 crumb over, and broil it upon a gridiron over a moderate fire 
 until sufficiently done, which would be in about a quarter of an 
 hour, when serve with game, mushroom, or any piquant sauce. 
 The advantage of broiling or sauteing game or poultry is, that 
 when you are alone, you need only cook the half of any large 
 bird at one time. 
 
 563. GAME CURRIES.—I have also made very good game 
 curries, but not too hot with curry, as that would entirely 
 destroy the flavour of the game. 
 
 569. PHEASANT STEWED WITH CABBAGE.—The 
 following is an excellent method for dressing a pheasant which 
 should prove to be rather old, although a young one would be 
 preferable. Procure a large savoy cabbage, which cut into 
 quarters, and well wash in salt and water, after which boil it 
 five minutes in plain water, then drain it quite dry, cut off the 
 stalk, season rather highly with pepper and salt, have ready a 
 middling-sized onion, and half a pound of streaky bacon, which, 
 with the cabbage, put into a stewpan, covering the whole with 
 a little good broth; let it simmer at the corner of the fire three 
 quarters of an hour, then put the pheasant (previously three 
 parts roasted) into the cabbage, and let them stew nearly three- 
 quarters of an hour longer, or until the stock has partly reduced 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 281 
 
 to glaze, and adheres thickly to the cabbage, when dress the 
 cabbage in a mound upon your dish, with the bacon, cut into 
 slices,° around, and the pheasant upon the top, half way buried 
 in the cabbage; have a little game sauce, which pour round and 
 
 serve. 
 
 570. JOE MILLER’S STEWED PHEASANT.—Roast 
 a pheasant as directed (No. 614), but previously dip it into 
 flour, and occasionally butter and flour over whilst roasting, thus 
 making the exterior very crisp, and keeping it nearly white, then 
 put the crumb of two French rolls into a stewpan, with half a 
 pint of milk, a small eschalot, a bay-leaf, .an ounce of butter, and 
 a little pepper and salt; let the whole boil a few minutes, when 
 take out the eschalot and bay-leaf, place a piece of butteied 
 toast upon your dish, pour the above over, dress the pheasant 
 upon the top, and serve. 
 
 571. HASHED PHEASANT. — Should you have any 
 remains of pheasants from a previous day, cut them into as neat 
 pieces as possible, then put an ounce of butter into a stewpan, 
 with half an ounce of flour, which stir two or three minutes 
 over the fire, until becoming slightly browned; then add a glass 
 of port wine, half a pint of water, season highly, boil at the 
 corner of the stove, stirring and skimming occasionally, until 
 sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon; then put 
 in the pieces of pheasant, with a little colouring, let it remain 
 ten minutes at the corner of the stove, but not to boil, dress the 
 meat upon your dish, pass the sauce over through a sieve, and 
 
 serve. 
 
 572. A PLAIN SALMI OF PHEASANT. —Or, should 
 you have a pheasant left that little has been cut from, cut and 
 trim it into neat joints, which put into a stewpan, then in 
 another stewpan put the bones and trimmings, chopped up very 
 small, with an onion in slices, a little parsley, thyme, and bay- 
 leaf, four peppercorns, and a glass of sherry, boil altogether two 
 minutes, then add three parts of a pint of brown sauce and half 
 a pint of broth; (if no brown sauce add a spoonful of flour and 
 a quart of broth or water and some colouring;) let the whole 
 boil until reduced to half, skimming it occasionally; place a fine 
 hair sieve over the stewpan containing the pieces of pheasant, 
 through which pass the sauce, warm altogether gently, without 
 boiling, and when quite hot dress the pieces neatly upon a dish, 
 
282 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 pour the sauce over, and serve with sippets of fried or toasted 
 bread (cut into the shape of hearts) around. 
 
 The remains of pheasant, or any other game may also be 
 minced and warmed in a little of the above sauce, and served 
 with poached eggs upon the top, or likewise made into boudins 
 and croquettes, as directed for turkey. 
 
 573. GROUSE.—The Scotch method is to plain roast the 
 grouse rather underdone, butter and flour while roasting, dress 
 it upon toast, and pour plain melted butter over. 
 
 But they may be dressed in any of the ways directed for 
 pheasants, with the exception of being stewed with cabbage, as 
 may be likewise every description of black game. 
 
 574. STEWED PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGE.— 
 Have two nice partridges trussed as for boiling, and run five or 
 six slices of fat bacon, of the thickness of a quill, lengthwise 
 through the breast, but not to protrude, and roast them fifteen 
 minutes before a moderate fire; have some cabbage stewed as 
 directed for pheasant with cabbage, but stewed nearly dry before 
 thrusting in the partridges, keep the whole hot, but not boiling, 
 for about an hour; have ready two pork sausages, nicely broiled, 
 dress the cabbage, which must be quite dry, upon your dish in 
 a mound, with the partridges at the top, half buried in it, cut 
 the bacon in halves, placing a piece at each end, with a sausage 
 at each side; pour half a pint of game sauce round and serve; 
 good plain gravy is also very nice. 
 
 575. PARTRIDGE SAUTE WITH MUSHROOMS.— 
 Plave two young partridges, each of which cut in halves, and 
 lay in a convenient sized stewpan, into which you have pre¬ 
 viously poured two or three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, first 
 season them lightly with a little white pepper, and salt, and a 
 sprinkle of chopped eschalots; put a cover upon the stewpan, 
 which place over a moderate fire, until one side of the partridges 
 is browned, turn them over, proceed the same way until browned 
 on both sides; pour otf part of the oil, and add half a table¬ 
 spoonful of flower, which well mix in, then add a glass of sherry, 
 a pint of broth, and twenty small button mushrooms (previously 
 blanched); let it simmer, skimming off all the oil which rises to 
 the surface, until the partridges are tender, and the sauce thick 
 enough to adhere to them; season the sauce a little if required, 
 dress the partridges upon a dish, sauce over and serve. 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 283 
 
 The remains of partridges may likewise be hashed or served 
 in a plain salmi as directed for pheasants. 
 
 576. WOODCOCKS A LA LUCULLUS.—Plain roast 
 the woodcocks as directed in Koasts, catching their trails upon 
 toast, upon which, when done, dress the birds on a dish; have 
 ready a little thick melted butter, with which mix the yolk of 
 an egg and a little cream, pour this over the woodcocks, sprinkle 
 lightly with bread-crumbs, salamander of a light brown colour, 
 and serve with a little gravy round. 
 
 577. WOODCOCKS, the Sportsman's fashion .—Roast two 
 woodcocks rather underdone, catching their trails upon a large 
 piece of toasted bread, when done cut each bird into quarters, 
 which place in a stewpan, with the remainder of the trail cut 
 small, a little pepper, salt, a glass of sherry, a little chopped 
 eschalot, the juice of half a lemon, and half a gill of broth, let 
 the whole simmer very gently a few minutes: dress the pieces of 
 woodcock rather high upon the toast, pour the sauce over, and 
 serve. 
 
 578. HASHED WOODCOCK.—Should you have any re¬ 
 maining from a previous dinner, cut each one in four (or if not 
 whole, into neat pieces), chop all the interior rather fine, which 
 mix with a small piece of butter, a spoonful of bread-crumbs, 
 and a little chopped parsley; make six croutons in the shape of 
 hearts, from a piece of toasted bread, spreau a piece of the above 
 preparation upon each, and put them in a warm oven for a short 
 time; hash the pieces of woodcock as directed for pheasant, and 
 serve with the croutons roasted. 
 
 579. SNIPES A LA MINUTE.—Put a quarter of a pound 
 of butter into a stewpan, over which lay six snipes, breasts 
 downwards, add a spoonful of chopped onions, the same of 
 chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of 
 salt, and a saltspoonful of white pepper; set the stewpan over a 
 brisk fire for seven or ten minutes (according to the size of the 
 birds), stirring them round continually; tnen add the juice of 
 one lemon, two glasses of sherry, the same of broth, and a 
 spoonful of finely-grated crust of bread; let the whole simmer a 
 few minutes longer, dress the birds upon a dish, stir the sauce 
 well together, pour it over the snipes, and serve; a little glaze 
 is an improvement. 
 
284 
 
 ENTREES 
 
 580. PLOVER SAUTE WITH ENGLISH TRUFFLES. 
 —Procure four plovers, which lay breasts downwards in a 
 stewpan, containing a quarter of a pound of butter, to which 
 add eight raw truffles, well washed, peeled, and cut into very 
 thin slices, two cloves, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 a saltspoonful of pepper, pass the whole ten minutes over a 
 sharp fire, stirring them round occasionally; then well mix in 
 half a tablespoonful of flour, which moisten with a pint of broth 
 and a glass of white wine; let the whole simmer at the corner 
 of the fire twenty minutes longer, keeping it well skimmed, 
 dress the birds upon a dish, reduce the sauce to a proper con¬ 
 sistency, season with a little sugar and the juice of a lemon, and 
 pour it over the birds; serve very hot. A few drops of colour¬ 
 ing may be added. 
 
 581. WILD DUCK WITH ORANGE SAUCE.—Having 
 trussed your duck as for roasting, rub it all over with the liver 
 until quite red; then put it down before a good fire to roast for 
 twenty minutes, after which make eight incisions down the 
 breast, and have ready the following preparation: put an ounce 
 of butter into a stewpan, with a quarter of a saltspoonful of 
 cayenne, the rind of an orange (free from pith, previously cut 
 into strips, and blanched in boiling water, and well drained upon 
 a sieve), and the juice of a lemon, warm all together, and when 
 melted, but not oily, pour over the duck, and serve. 
 
 582. HASHED WILD DUCK.—Cut up the remains of a 
 duck or ducks into neat pieces, and put into a stewpan with half 
 or a tablespoonful of flour (depending on the quantity), mix well, 
 moisten with a glass or two of wine, and sufficient broth or 
 water to make a thickish sauce, season well, add a little Harvey 
 sauce, mushroom catsup, a little sugar, and cayenne pepper; let 
 simmer, but not boil, take out the pieces, which dress upon 
 toast, reduce the sauce, pour over and serve. A little colouring 
 may be added if approved. 
 
 583. WIDGEON S.—Rub the breast of a widgeon over with 
 a part of the liver, chop up the remaining part, to which add a 
 few bread-crumbs, a little chopped lemon-peel, chopped parsley, 
 and a raw egg, with which stuff the interior, roast nearly as 
 long as for the wild duck before a very sharp fire, dress upon 
 toast on a dish, having ready the following sauce: put half a 
 glass of port wine into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of chopped 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 285 
 
 eschalots, a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, boil a *e\v minutes, 
 add the juice of a lemon, and two ounces of fresh butter, sauce 
 over, and serve. Widgeons are hashed the same as wild duck. 
 
 584. TEAL, A NEW METHOD.—Procure four, draw 
 them; then put half a pound of butter upon a plate, with a little 
 pepper, grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, a spoonful of grated 
 crust of bread, the juice of a lemon, and the liver of the teal; 
 mix well together, and with it fill the interior of the teal; cover 
 them with slices of lemon, over which fold thin slices of bacon, 
 and envelope them in paper, roast twenty minutes before a 
 sharp fire; take off the paper, brown the bacon, dress them upon 
 a slice of thick toast, letting the butter from the teal run over 
 it, and serve very hot. 
 
 r 585. TEAL A LA SANS FACON.— Roast four teal quite 
 plain, prepare a quarter of a pound of butter as above, with the 
 omission of the livers, which place in a stewpan over the fire, 
 stirrino- quickly, until forming a kind of sauce; add some fillets 
 from the pulp of a lemon, sauce over, and serve. The remains 
 of teal also make excellent hash. 
 
 586. LARKS A LA MINUTE.—Proceed as directed for 
 snipes a la minute, previously stuffing them with their livers as 
 directed for widgeons, adding a few raw mushrooms at the com¬ 
 mencement; but do not let them stew too quickly, or the bottom 
 will brown, and give a bad flavour to the sauce; seven minutes 
 are quite sufficient to stew them. 
 
 587. LARK PIE.—Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with thin 
 slices of beef and fat bacon, over which lay ten or twelve larks 
 previously rolled in flour, stuffed as above, season with a tea¬ 
 spoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, one of chopped parsley, 
 and one of chopped eschalot, lay a bay-leaf over, add a gill o 
 broth, and cover with three-quarters of a pound ol halt-putt 
 paste, bake one hour in a moderate oven, shake well to make the 
 gravy in the pie form a kind of sauce, and serve quite hot. 
 
 . 588. JUGGED HARE.—Put a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 with a pound of bacon cut into dice, and the hare cut into pieces, 
 in a stewpan; set upon a moderate fire until the pieces ot hare 
 are becoming firm, when add six ounces of flour, mix well, and 
 moisten with sufficient water to cover it; add two glasses ot any 
 
286 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 kind of wine, and one of vinegar, season high with pepper and 
 salt, let simmer until tender, keeping well skimmed; when done, 
 and the sauce becoming rather thick, dress upon your dish, and 
 serve. 
 
 589. JUGGED HADE (another way'), —Put-about half a 
 pound of butter, with ten ounces of flour, into a stewpan; put 
 it on the fire, and keep stirring it round until it has a yellow 
 tinge; then add a pound of bacon cut in square pieces, stir it 
 a little longer on the fire; the hare having been previously cut 
 up, put it into the stewpan and stir it about until it becomes 
 firm, when add four glasses of port wine and sufficient water to 
 cover it; season, and add two bay-leaves, and four cloves, and, 
 when half done, about fifty button onions, or ten large ones in 
 slices, a tablespoonful of brown sugar, let it simmer until it is 
 w T ell done and the sauce rather thick; dress up, sauce over, and 
 serve. If an old one, it will take about four hours; consequently, 
 add water in proportion. 
 
 EGGS. 
 
 590. PLAIN BAKED EGGS.—Butter with one ounce a 
 plated or common tart-dish, that will bear the heat of the oven; 
 break carefully six eggs in it, season with one pinch of pepper, 
 half a spoonful of salt, the juice of half a lemon, and add half 
 an ounce of butter in small pieces over, put in a slack oven 
 until set, and serve. 
 
 591. BAKED EGGS WITH ASPARAGUS.—Cut twenty 
 heads of sprue into small pieces, keeping only the tender part; 
 boil them for fifteen minutes, put them into a stewpan, with 
 half an ounce of butter, set them on the fire for three minutes, 
 season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when done, put 
 them in the dish you intend to serve it in, break six eggs over, 
 which season as above, put it into the oven until it sets, and 
 serve; in case the oven is not sufficiently hot, place a salamander 
 over the eggs. 
 
 592. MASHED EGGS.—Break four eggs into a stewpan, 
 with one ounce of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch 
 of pepper; put it on the fire, stir continually, and as soon as 
 delicately set, serve. 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 987 
 
 These can be served with either green peas, sprue grass, or 
 mushrooms, which must be stewed and prepared as if ready to 
 serve; put some in the stewpan with the eggs, and proceed as 
 before. If meagre, use cream instead of butter. 
 
 592. EGGS WITH BURNT BUTTER. — Put into a 
 frying-pan two ounces of butter, which melt; as soon as it is on 
 the point of browning, put in the eggs, which have been pre¬ 
 viously broken in a basin, and seasoned with pepper and salt; 
 when well set, serve, with a teaspoonful of vinegar over the 
 eggs. 
 
 594. EGGS A LA TRIPE.—Cut about two onions each 
 into thin slices, put them in a saucepan, with half an ounce of 
 fresh butter, and set them on a slow fire; when warmed 
 through, put half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of pepper, 
 a teaspoonful of flour, half a pint of milk, and a little sugar; let 
 it boil, put in six hard eggs cut in quarters, and serve, after a 
 little ebullition. 
 
 595. SNOW EGGS.—Take half a pint of milk and a little 
 suo'ar, and flavour it with orange-flower water, or any other 
 essence, and put it in a stewpan on the fire, having previously 
 beaten up the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth; if very hot 
 weather, you must place the basin they are in on ice, or in cold 
 water; whilst beating, add some powdered sugar lightly; when 
 the milk is boiling, take the white up with a tablespoon, and 
 drop it, one tablespoonful at a time, into the stewpan to poach, 
 keeping the shape of an egg, which turn over when set; when 
 done, remove with a colander on to a sieve, and dress them in 
 a crown on the dish you intend to serve them on; when all 
 done, beat up the yolks of four of the eggs in a stewpan, with a 
 little sugar and a few drops of orange-flower water, pour part of 
 the boiling milk out of the stewpan into it, sufficient to make a 
 good stiff custard, put it on the fire until rather thick, and pour 
 over the white, and serve either hot or cold: the last is pre¬ 
 ferable. 
 
 596. EGGS WITH CHEESE.—Put into a stewpan about 
 two ounces of grated Parmesan, or Gruyere, or old Cheshire, 
 with one ounce of butter, two sprigs of parsley, two spring 
 onions chopped up, a little grated nutmeg, and half a glass of 
 sherry; put it on the fire, and keep stirring until the cheese is 
 
288 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 well melted; break six eggs in a basin, put them in the stewpan, 
 stir and cook them on a slow fire; when done, serve with fried 
 sippets of bread round. Or, 
 
 597. ANOTHER WAY.—Put into a flat dish that will bear 
 the oven a piece of butter the size of a walnut, the same of 
 grated cheese, the yolks of two eggs, some grated cinnamon 
 and nutmeg, mix these on the dish, put it either in the oven or 
 on the hot plate, or, from want of either, before the fire, until 
 it sets, then gently break six eggs on the dish, and cover with 
 grated cheese, and salamander until a nice brown, or for want 
 of one, keep it before the fire until it is so, and serve. 
 
 598. EGGS IN CASES.—Cut up a sheet of paper into 
 pieces of three inches square, turn up half an inch all round so 
 as to form a kind of square case, there will then remain but two 
 inches square in the inside. Take a small piece of butter, a pinch 
 of fine bread crumbs, a little fine chopped parsley, spring onions, 
 salt, and pepper, and mix them together, put a little into each 
 case, then break one egg into each, put them on a gridiron over 
 a slow fire, and do them gently, or place them in a dish in an 
 oven; when well set, serve. Small round paper cases may be 
 procured very cheap at any oilman’s. 
 
 599. OMELETTE WITH HERBS.—Break six eg?s in a 
 basin or stewpan, and add to it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 
 and one of chopped eschalot or spring onions, half ditto of salt, 
 and a pinch of pepper, and beat it well up together. Put into an 
 omelette-pan, that is, a small frying-pan six inches in diameter, 
 two ounces of butter, which melt, then pour in the eggs, stir 
 round with a spoon; as soon as it begins to set, lightly move it 
 to that part of the pan opposite the handle, so that it occupies 
 only one third, hold it so that that part of the pan is the lowest, 
 move with a spoon the outside edges over, and let it remain half 
 a minute, so that it obtains a good colour, turn it over on to the 
 dish so that the bottom is at the top. They must not be too 
 much done, and served very hot. They may be served plain, 
 or with the addition of any gravy. 
 
 Omelettes of Ham, Oysters, &c., are all made as the above, 
 with the addition that these articles must have been properly 
 cooked previously, and well chopped up, so as to mix well with 
 the eggs, beat them up well together, and cook in a pan the 
 same way, or a little grated cheese may be added. This I beg 
 of you to practise; though simple, there is great art in making it. 
 
ENTREES. 
 
 289 
 
 GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES. 
 
 600. ASPARAGUS, PEAS, AND GREEN PEAS.—Put 
 in a stewpan three spoonfuls of plain boiled sprue-grass that 
 has previously been cut up, add to it half an ounce of butter, a 
 little salt, pepper, and sugar, warm it on the fire, moving it con¬ 
 tinually; when warm, put it with a spoon in the centre of the 
 omelette, turn over, and serve; the same with peas; rather thin 
 melted butter or white sauce may be served round it. 
 
 601. OYSTERS.—Open and blanch delicately twelve middle- 
 sized oysters, and put them in a stewpan with their own gravy, 
 after having bearded them, add a tablespoonful of milk or cream, 
 and -ive it a boil, then add half an ounce of butter in which you 
 liave & mixed a saltspoonful of flour, stir it in without breaking 
 the oysters, put over the centre of your omelette, and proceed as 
 
 before. 
 
 602. LOBSTER.—Cut half or a small one in thin slices, put 
 four tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, a few drop 
 of essence of anchovies, and a little cayenne; put m your 
 lobster, warm it well, and put it in the middle of the omelette, as 
 
 above. 
 
 603. KIDNEYS.—Cook two kidneys as No. 458; when 
 done, serve in centre of omelette, as above. 
 
 604 MUSHROOMS.—Wash about ten small fresh mush¬ 
 rooms’ cut in slices, put in a stewpan, with half an ounce of 
 butter, a little salt, pepper, and the juice of a quarter of a 
 lemon, simmer for a few minutes on the fire till tender; if too 
 liquid, add a little flour, place in centre of omelette, and proceed 
 
 as above. 
 
 605. BACON.—Cut two ounces of good lean bacon in small 
 dice, put in pan to fry with a pat of butter for one minute, then 
 mix with the eggs prepared as for omelette of herbs, omitting 
 the salt, and cook the same way. This omelette is in great 
 repute in France, especially among the epicures of the Barneres, 
 outside of Paris. It prepares the palate to receive with pleasure 
 the cheap and acid wines sold there, which must have been 
 invented by Bacchus when in a sour humour. 
 
290 
 
 ROASTS—SECOND COURSE. 
 
 These dishes consist almost always of game, which require to be sent up 
 immediately they are taken from the fire, and require great care and atten¬ 
 tion in cooking them. In the following pages will be found many which are 
 scarce and rarely seen in London, and never mentioned in our various cookery 
 books; but considering that many of our friends reside in the country, I 
 have written it for them. 
 
 606. TURKEY POULTS.—Turkey poults, so called from 
 being used when about the size of a large pullet, are always 
 roasted and trussed with the legs turned at the first joint, and 
 the feet pressing upon the thighs, the neck is skinned, and the 
 head fixed under the wing; roast them the same as directed for 
 turkeys, about twenty-five minutes or half an hour, according 
 to their size, and in the same modes, but they are usually served, 
 one larded and the other barded, with gravy and water-cresses in 
 the dish. 
 
 607. ROAST CAPON WITH CRESSES.—Roast and serve 
 a capon in any of the ways directed for turkeys, roast of a nice 
 gold colour, and serve with water-cresses round; a capon weigh¬ 
 ing five pounds requires about three quarters of an hour to roast. 
 Poularde au cresson exactly as above. 
 
 608. ROAST PULLET.—For a dinner of four entrees you 
 would require two fowls, but not too large; truss and roast them 
 as directed for a turkey, judging the time required according to 
 their size, and serve with gravy and water-cresses; they may be 
 larded, barded, or served in any way mentioned in the foregoing 
 receipts. A fowl weighing two pounds and a half would require 
 half an hour roasting, or three quarters of an hour if larger. 
 
 609. SPRING CHICKENS are served like fowls, generally 
 plain roasted, but they may be larded as the poularde. Be par¬ 
 ticular in tying the legs upon paper to the spit, as directed for 
 the turkey, as it so improves their appearance when roasted. 
 About twenty minutes would be sufficient to roast them. 
 
 610. GOSLINGS.—A green goose roasted plain and served 
 with a little gravy is generally sent up for second courses ; but 
 if the larger ones are used they must be stuffed with sage and 
 onions, but very few would choose such a thing for a roast second 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 291 
 
 course, whilst green geese in their season are great favourites; 
 truss them by cutting off the leg at the first joint, and the wing 
 at the first pinion, fixing them at the side with skewers to throw 
 the breast up; a full grown goose will take one hour to roast, but 
 a green one not more than half an hour. 
 
 611. DUCKLINGS make a very favourite roast in the 
 London season; they must have good fillets, white and plump, 
 and require to be a little more underdone than any other descrip¬ 
 tion of poultry; if too much done, the fat catches, and gives a 
 rank flavour to the flesh, besides causing the fillets to eat dry. 
 They are usually served plain roasted for a second course, yet I 
 have served them differently on some occasions for the sake of 
 variety, but it must be with a very thin sauce and one that invi¬ 
 gorates the palate, although they never can be better than when 
 served plain roasted. Truss them by twisting the legs at the 
 first joint and resting the feet upon the thighs, cut the wing off 
 at the pinion, and run a skewer through the bird, fixing the 
 pinion and legs with it, place them upon a spit, and roast twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 612. GUINEA FOWLS.—These birds must be very young, 
 for, being naturally very dry, they are not eatable if more than 
 twelve months old ; they are generally larded or barded, .and 
 served plain roasted, rather well done; they are trussed like the 
 common fowls, and require nearly three quarters of an hour to 
 roast. 
 
 613. PEA FOWLS.—These magnificent birds make a noble 
 roast, and when young are very excellent; they are larded, or 
 plain roasted, and served with the tail feathers which have been 
 preserved, stuck into the bird, the head, with its feathers on, 
 being left folded up in paper, and tucked under the wing; roast 
 about an hour and a half, take the paper from the head and neck, 
 dress it upon your dish with water-cresses, and the gravy and 
 bread-sauce separate in a boat. 
 
 GAME (CHOICE OF).—There is no article of food that is so deceiving in 
 appearance to know if it is young, tender, and good, or not, as game ; to any 
 one residing in London, and dealing with a respectable tradesman, it matters 
 little, as old or bad game is rarely sent to London, it not being worth the 
 carriage; but to a person living in the country, where a member of the family 
 has shot them in his day’s sport or have been received as presents, a know¬ 
 ledge how to distinguish them is requisite. Young birds may be distinguished 
 
 U 2 
 
292 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 by the softness of their quills ; females will eat better than males, they are 
 more tender and juicy. Old pheasants are known by the length and sharp¬ 
 ness of their spurs, in young ones they are short and blunt.—Old partridges 
 before Christmas have light blue legs, instead of yellow-brown.—Wild fowl 
 may be known to be old from their bills and the stiffness of the sinews of the 
 legs, those that have the finest plumage are the worst eating.—Hares and 
 rabbits: try if the ear will easily tear and the jaw-bone break between the finger 
 and the thumb, if not they are only fit for soup or jugging.—On receiving birds 
 of all kinds, put in their mouths three or four peppercorns bruised and one 
 clove of garlic, and pepper the place where shot. In case you receive many, 
 tie a piece of paper to them with the date on which they were received. 
 
 614. PHEASANTS. —At the present day there are great varieties 
 of these birds, which differ as much in their flavour as their plumage. There 
 are also a large quantity of hybrids sold in the London market as a genuine 
 pheasant, and it is impossible to know them when plucked. The flavour of 
 the bird will depend in a great measure on the nature of the country where 
 it is killed. 
 
 Have them prepared and trussed: put them about eighteen 
 inches from the fire for five minutes, then draw them close, and 
 roast as quickly as possible, rubbing them all over with an ounce 
 of butter pressed in a wooden spoon, serve up with bread sauce 
 separate, and good gravy under. They are also good larded, or 
 one larded and the other barded. 
 
 615. PARTRIDGES.—The red-legged in this country are 
 not so fine in flavour as the gray; they are dressed like the 
 pheasant, but all the time at a very quick fire, and served very 
 hot from the spit; it is better to wait a minute or two for it than 
 to have it wait for you : dish it up with a little made gravy with 
 it, and bread-sauces, as above. 
 
 616. GROUSE.— We have three kinds in this country; namely, black, 
 red, and white. The first, the Black Grouse, is called the Black Cock (le 
 Coq de Bruyere). The female in the north is called the Gray Hen, but in 
 the south of England male and female are called Heath Poults. 
 
 These birds should be well kept, trussed like a fowl for roast¬ 
 ing, and served with brown gravy under, or may be dressed as 
 follows: truss as before, covering the breast with vine leaves and 
 fat bacon, which tie on; roast from half to three quarters of an 
 hour according to size, and serve with toast under, and melted 
 butter over. 
 
 617. RED GROUSE, GORCOCK, or MOORCOCK {the 
 common Moor Game {VAttagas ).—Trussed like a fowl for roast- 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 293 
 
 ing, which cook quick before a sharp fire, serve -with toasted 
 bread under. 
 
 618. WHITE GROUSE or PTARMIGAN (le Lagopede). 
 
 —The birds are perfectly white ; they now arrive in the London market from 
 February to May; from Sweden and Norway, packed in ice : they have rather 
 a strong flavour of the pine ; but when young and tender, are good eating. 
 They are to be trussed like the above, and plain roasted, and served with 
 toast under and fried bread-crumbs, separate, or dressed as follows :—Put 
 two spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon and a 
 little salt dissolved in it; when melted, pour over and serve. 
 
 There is another sort of grouse, known as the Wood Grouse or Capercailzie; 
 these are rare in this country; I have occasionally received a few from Scot¬ 
 land. These are to be plain roasted, and served as the above. 
 
 619. WILD DUCKS (Canard Sauvage).— The male is called 
 the Mallard, and the young one Flapper. Under the above title a great 
 many birds are sold. 
 
 They should all be cooked alike; they must be kept two or 
 three days before they are dressed; they are trussed by twisting 
 each leg at the knuckle, and resting the claws on each side of 
 the breast, fixing them with a skewer run through the thighs 
 and pinions of the wings; rub the liver over the breast, roast 
 them before a quick fire from fifteen to twenty minutes, baste 
 with butter, not basting them when first put down will keep the 
 gravy in; one should be better done than the other, in order to 
 suit the taste of those at table; serve with made gravy under, 
 and a lemon separate. 
 
 620. CANVASS BACK DUCK.— A friend of mine gave me 
 some of these delicate birds from America, but which were already cooked 
 and preserved in tins. I could not speak very highly of them, being to my 
 fancy too much done ; but I believe they now arrive in England packed in 
 ice. They have a gray plumage. 
 
 They should be cooked like wild duck, but nearer the file, the 
 fat being so delicate that it requires to be cooked quickly; good 
 plain gravy is all that is required to make them perfect. 
 
 The following is a list of those ducks fit to be eaten : Golden Eye Duck 
 (le Garrot, or Piedcurre); Gray Duck (le Chipeau); Morillon, or Guigling 
 Curries; in Scotland, Douckers (le Morillon); Pintailed Duck or TV inter 
 Duck, Sea Pheasant or Cracker (le Canard a longue queue); Scaup Duck, 
 Gray-back Curre and Teal Drake (le Vignons); Shoveller, or Kertlutock, or 
 Broadbilled Duck on the east coast, Becks and Scopper-bills (le Souchet). 
 There is also a variety called the Red-breasted Shoveller, which we receive in 
 
294 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 London from Holland about Christmas ; the flesh of this bird is superior to 
 that of the common wild duck., the wing can be eaten with the breast; Tufted 
 Duck, or Blue-billed Curries and Dowers (le petit Morillon): there are other 
 birds of this species, but not fit to be eaten, as the Black Duck or Scoter (la 
 Macreuse); Burrough Duck or Sheldrake (le Tadorne); the young ones may 
 be eaten; Eider Duck, St. Cuthbert’s, or Great Black and White Duck 
 (l’Eider); Long-tailed Duck or Swallow-tailed Sheldrake (Canard de Mielon); 
 Velvet Duck, Great Black Duck or Double Scoter (le grande Macreuse). 
 
 621. WIDGEON, WHEWER, OR WHIM (le Canard 
 Siffleur ).—These should be eaten fresher than a wild duck, 
 trussed, dressed, and served the same; fifteen minutes is suffi¬ 
 cient before a good fire. 
 
 622. DUNBIRD, POCHARD, OR GREAT-HEADED 
 WIDGEON (Penelope, le Millouin ). — In some parts Red 
 Heads , Parkers , or Half Birds. These are dressed as above, 
 but not so good as the Widgeon. 
 
 623. TEAL (la petite Sarcelle). —This is a delicious bird 
 when fat, which they generally are after a frost. They must be 
 trussed with care like ducklings; they will take about eight 
 minutes to roast; serve with gravy, water-cresses, and lemon, 
 separate, about six on a dish; or with sauces Nos. 146, 148. 
 
 624. GARGANEY (la Sarcelle). —These are called Summer 
 Teal, resemble it in shape, and are dressed the same way. 
 
 625. PLOVER. —Of these there are several sorts, all of which are 
 good to eat at certain seasons. They are, the Great Plover, or Norfolk Plover, 
 or Thick-kneed Bustard, or Stone Curlew (le grand Pluvier). The young of 
 these are the best eating in September.—Bastard Plover, or Lapwing, or 
 Peewit (le Vanneau). This one we get the eggs from ; they are good in the 
 winter. We get them from the South Downs, but they are much finer in 
 Prance, where there is a proverb —“ Qui n’a pas mange de vanneau, ne sait 
 pasce que gibiervaut.”—Golden Plover (le Pluvier dore) ; Gray Plover (le 
 Vanneau Pluvier); Dotterel (le Guignard); Ring Dotterel, Ring Plover, or 
 Sea Lark (le petit Pluvier a collier ); Long-legged Plover or Longshanks, or 
 Sanderling (l’Echasse). The Golden and Large Dotterel are the best to eat. 
 
 They should be well kept, but not too long, trussed gently, but 
 not drawn, and put on a skewer, place them a little distance from 
 a sharp fire, with a bit of toast under to catch the trail, baste with 
 a little good butter, ten minutes is sufficient; dress them with 
 toast under, and serve with gravy separate. They may also be 
 served barded with vine leaves and very thin bacon. 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 295 
 
 626 WOODCOCK (la Becasse).— This is a most delicious 
 bird when well cooked; they must not be kept too long; they 
 are fit for cooking when they become black between the legs, 
 and the feathers are rather loose; truss them with the le s 
 twisted at the knuckles, and the feet pressing upon the thighs, 
 brin«' the pinion of the wing to the thigh, having previously 
 skinned the neck and head; bring the beak round under the 
 wing, which pass through the pinions of the wings and thi c . 
 Place four on a skewer, tie them on a spit, and roast before a 
 sharp fire from ten to fifteen minutes, placing toast unde* to 
 catch the trail; when done, serve on the toast and a veiy ntt e 
 gravy: they may also be barded with thin slices of bacon over 
 the breast, and served with a sauce of fumet de gibier. 
 
 697 SNIPES.—Of these we have the Great or Solitary 
 Snipe,* (la grande Becassine ); the Common Snipe, brute,, or 
 Heather Bleater, (la Becassine ); the Jack Snipe, Judcock, Jet- 
 cock, or G d (la petite BecasJne). The last is the best eating 
 “d the hen better than the cock, although that is generally sent 
 as a present from its beautiful plumage. They are dressed i 
 every respect like Woodcocks; and from seven to ten mmutesis 
 sufficient They may likewise be fried in plenty of oil, and 
 served with sauces Nos. 136, 148. 
 
 623. LARKS (VAlouette).— They are best in winter, when 
 very fat; they are roasted plain, or with a thm slice of bacon and 
 a leaf of celery tied over them; they require about eight minutes, 
 Ld served wfth a little gravy and bread-crumbs; they are aLo 
 used in pies (see Pigeon Pie); and may be dressed like snipes. 
 
 629 QUAIL (la Caille).— Should be killed at least forty- 
 eight hours before they are wanted; they should then be pbicked, 
 sino-ed drawn, and trussed by cutting off the wings at the hrs 
 Zion leaving the feet, and fixing the pinion and the wings 
 with a very small skewer; cover the breast with vine leaves and 
 a slice of fat bacon, and run a skewer through the pinions and 
 thigfo of each: tie’on a spit and roast for ten to twelve minutes 
 before a sharp fire. They should be served a nme gold colour 
 in a dish with a little gravy; they may also be trussed as ab , 
 and put into a pig’s caul, and roasted, and served with either 
 
 sauces Nos, 146, 181. 
 
 630. KNOT, KNUTE, on KNOUT (fe OmjA-TUe little 
 bird is of the snipe kind, and is generally caught in nets, y 
 
296 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 are best in autumn, when they are fat; they leave this country 
 as soon as frost sets in. They are said to take their name from 
 Canute, a Danish king, celebrated in English history for his 
 reproof to his courtiers, who, it is reported, was exceedingly fond 
 of them. They should be cooked like Snipes or Woodcocks. 
 
 631. RUFFES AND REEVES ( le Combattant ).—The first 
 is the male, the latter the female; they are best at the latter end 
 of May. They are caught in nets, and then kept in boxes, and 
 fed on the following food:—two tablespoonfuls of wheat, one 
 penny roll, one teaspoonful of hemp-seed, and a tablespoonful of 
 sugar, boiled together in a pint of milk. Cook like Woodcocks. 
 
 632. LANDRAIL, CORNCRAKE, or DAKERHEN (le 
 Rale de Genet). —This is a very nice bird about the latter end 
 of August and September, when they are very fat; they are 
 best caught in nets and fed; in cooking, proceed as for Larks. 
 
 633. WATER-RAIL, SPOTTED GALLINULE, OR 
 WATERCRAKE.—This bird differs altogether from the former, 
 and is a distinct species of itself: the heart is most delicious 
 eating; it should be dressed and served like the Widgeon. 
 
 634. FIELDFARE (la Tourdelle). —In season in autumn, 
 until the middle of December. 
 
 635. RED WING, WIND THRUSH, SWINE-PIPE (le 
 Mauvis). —These two birds should be caught alive, either in net 
 or by bird-lime, and fed for some days previous to killing ; their 
 food should consist of juniper berries, pounded figs, and bread; 
 when fat and fed thus, they are excellent, and should be cooked 
 like the Quail. These birds are the Turdi of the Romans. 
 
 636. THRUSH (Greve). —These should be eaten twenty- 
 four hours after being killed. Pluck and take out entrails, 
 leave the liver, cover with two vine leaves and a slice of bacon 
 or pickled pork, and put in an oven or toast before the fire for 
 ten minutes. These are not much in use in England, but are 
 thought a delicacy by our neighbours on the Continent. 
 
 637. CURLEW (le Courlis).— The little Curlew, Curlew 
 Jack, or Whimbrel (le petit Courlis). —These birds are most in 
 season in April. I have had them from Kent and Sussex of 
 most excellent eating; they should be cooked like Teal. 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 297 
 
 638. WILD GEESE, the common gray leg (l’Oie Sauvage). 
 
 _Bean Goose; Barnacle Treegoose or Clakis (la Bernacle); Brent Goose (ie 
 
 Cravant); Egyptian Goose, Ganser, or Gambo, or Spur-winged (l’Oie d’Egypte); 
 Red-breasted Goosiander, or Siberian Goose; White-fronted or Laughing 
 Goose (l’Oie Rieuse.)—These birds, although being of the same species, differ 
 very widely in flavour, depending much upon the place they last fed on pre¬ 
 vious to being killed ; for although we have Barnacles in various parts of the 
 kingdom, none are so fine as those taken at Wexford and Tralee in Ireland. 
 The Brent and Whitefronted are by far the best eating, although at times 
 some of the common gray jay are found very fine. They should be dressed 
 like wild duck, only rubbing the breast well with a lemon, and sprinkle halt 
 a teaspoonful of red pepper over previous to spitting. 
 
 639. GANNET, GAN, or SOLAN GOOSE ( le Fou de 
 
 Bassaii ).—This is a very different bird from the other wild geese. The best 
 part to eat is the breast, which may be cut away after it has been plucked, 
 for the feathers are valuable, and then salted for six hours, and dried or 
 smoked ; place them in a dry place and they will keep for some months. 
 They should be cooked as follows : 
 
 Soak them in water twenty-four hours, having added a tea¬ 
 spoonful of culinary alkali, rub the breast with oil, cover with 
 oiled paper the same as for “ Cutlets en papillotebroil gently 
 for full thirty minutes, and serve in the paper or without with 
 orange sauce. 
 
 The young ones can be roasted whole, like wild ducks. 
 
 640. TERNES, OR SEA-SWALLOWS, are good eating in 
 
 autumn, dressed like the widgeon. These birds, in some places, are called 
 Kipps, and their eggs are sold as plovers’. 
 
 641. GULLS, GREBES, DIVERS of all kinds, including the 
 
 Dobchicks, are only fit to make into soups, although I am of opinion that if 
 the young gull was taken and fattened for table, it would make a delicious 
 
 bird. 
 
 642. COOT, THE GREAT, ( le grande Foulque , or, la 
 Macroule .)— Coot, common bald, (la Foulque , or Morrelle .— 
 This bird, if properly dressed, is not so bad as may be supposed. 
 They should be skinned, trussed, and well soaked in several 
 waters for twenty-four hours, and then filled with a goose 
 stuffing, and allowed to remain forty-eight nours; then cover 
 its breast with slices of fat bacon, and roast it gently : serve with 
 2 ifumet de gibier, or make it into pies, puddings, or soup. 
 
298 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 643. BITTERN, THE COMMON, OR BOGBUMPER, 
 
 BITTERBUM, BUTTERBUMP, MIREDRUM (le Butor).— Bittern (the 
 little) (le Blongios).—Many cooks confound this with the heron, but they are 
 as different as possible, not only in appearance, although of the same species, 
 but in flavour. When fat, about October and November, this bird is exceed¬ 
 ingly fine eating ; it should be kept for three or four days, then covered with 
 a slice of bacon, and roasted, and served with a sauce (Nos. 148, 181). 
 
 644. STARLINGS, OR STARE (V Etournea.u)> — These 
 
 are obtained, at times, in large quantities, by persons resident in the country. 
 When killed, their heads should be immediately pulled off, and as soon as 
 plucked and trussed, put into a little vinegar and water, which will get rid 
 of their bitter taste : cook like Larks. 
 
 Cormorants and Herons are unfit to be sent to table; also the Rock Birds, 
 or Penguin species. 
 
 645. OX-BIRD, PURRE, OR STINT (VAlouette de Merj . 
 
 —It is from this bird that the receipt (No. 531) of sea-pie arose: it being a 
 bird of passage, and often surrounding a vessel at sea in thousands ; when 
 we get them in London, they have generally been shot, which ought not to 
 have been; but taken in nets and kept alive, and fed like quails, or on bread 
 and milk, hemp-seed and boiled wheat, and two days before they are wanted 
 add sugar, which makes them amazingly fat. When young, their legs are, 
 smooth ; the contrary when old. In cooking, proceed as for a lark, draw them 
 or not, as may be preferred. With this bird may be classed the following, 
 and cook in the same way :—Knots, Knute, Knout (le Canut) ; Thrush 
 (Greve) ; Gambet or Gambetta, by some called the Greenshank ; Redshank, 
 Spotted Redshank (Chevalier Rouge) ; Godwits of all colours very much 
 resemble and equal the flavour of a woodcock—the hens are the best; 
 Dotterels, in spring the most delicious eating; Dotterel-sea or Turnstone, not 
 so fine ; Sandpiper or Sanderling, fine in summer ; Wheatear, White Tail, or 
 Fallowfmch, good in August and September. 
 
 646. BUSTARD, GREAT OR LITTLE (VOutarde , or 
 
 la 'petite Outarde). —This is a bird which is now seldom sent to table, its 
 flavour depends much upon the country where it feeds ; it should be stuffed 
 and cooked like a turkey. 
 
 647. BLACKBIRDS. —They are eatable when young, and are best 
 at the end of the year; they should be cooked like larks. 
 
 648. RABBITS. —There are two sorts, the tame and wild; the wild 
 or gray inhabits the mountainous districts; has the finest flavour, or on those 
 places where it can feed on thyme, geneva, or other aromatic herbs, or on the 
 sea coast, where he gets the lichen or wild moss. It has a much darker colour 
 
SECOND COURSE* 
 
 299 
 
 n.n thfl tame. The tame rabbit, if properly fed 21 days before killing, may 
 be made a very delicate article of nourishment; it should be kept from two 
 to four days. When killed, it should be removed to a cold place as quick as 
 
 possible, that the fat may set. 
 
 If old, the claws will be long and rough, the coat rough, and 
 gray hairs mixed with it. If young, the claws and wool smooth. 
 If stele, the flesh will be slimy and a bluish colour; if fresh, it 
 will be stiff, and the flesh white and dry. 
 
 649. RABBITS, TO SKIN &c -Cut round the skin at 
 the first joint of the hind legs, and pull the skm up a little, then 
 run the knife between the sinew and the bone of the leg, so as 
 to make a hole to hang it on a nail in a wall, with the head 
 downwards ; run a knife along the skin inside the thigh as: t ar 
 as the tail, so as to cut it, then run the hand under the ski , 
 and it will easily separate from the body; pull it down towar s 
 the head taking care not to tear the belly; when you have 
 arrived as far as the head, pull up the fore legs, cutting the feet 
 off at the first joint, then pull up the ears by running; a. skewer 
 
 between the skin and the head, and pull ‘he s km °ff, ^^ 
 
 nose and lins* remove it from the nail, cut off the hind leet at 
 the first joint; cut open the body, remove the inside, reserve 
 the live- J heart, and kidneys, and throw away the remainder , 
 wash ouf the inside. If for roasting, make the following stuff- 
 ing: take the liver, heart, and kidneys, blanch them «>em 
 into a fryingpan with a little fat and one small onion chopped 
 no saute I little, then remove and chop them up with two 
 
 ounces of pork fat or bacon, a little parsley, and wl * b ^* 
 
 crumbs and the yolk of an egg; stuff and sew up the belly. 
 Truss as follows: bring the hind and fore legs cl ° se t0 * he ? 
 towards the head, run a skewer through each, then run a, 
 skewer in at the mouth and through the neck to keep it upright; 
 it should be exactly as if it was sitting. Put a string round the 
 body from skewer to skewer, and it is ready. 
 
 650 HARES.—One is sufficient for a roast, skin and truss 
 it nicely as for the Rabbit, stuff the interior with a good veal 
 stuffing! sew it up, then put it on the spit ^ 
 back and shake flour over it, roast it about ^*7 ^ ° 
 
 a sharp fire, but that depends upon the size, of c ° urse > 
 them with plain gravy in the disli and cmrent jeUy sepm^e. 
 They are also served with a sauce poiverade, or sweet sauce, 
 they may also be larded. 
 
800 
 
 SAVOURY DISHES. 
 
 v 
 
 651. LEVERETS are plain roasted, and do not require 
 stuffing, not so long roasting, being smaller; they are usually 
 served with plain gravy, but may be served with either of the 
 sauces mentioned in the last; you require two for a roast. They 
 will take from twenty-five to thirty minutes roasting. They 
 may be larded, for a change. 
 
 ENTREMETS. 
 
 With the roasts of the second course come the following, which are totally 
 different from the entrees, being of a more delicate and lighter character, and 
 adapted to the palate at that period of the dinner. The first partaken of are, 
 
 THE SAVOURY DISHES 
 
 FOR THE SECOND COURSE. 
 
 652. VEAL AND HAM PIES (raised ).— The following few 
 dishes will be found extremely useful for breakfasts, luncheons, second course 
 in a dinner party, or for dinner in summer, but above all for supper when 
 you give an evening party. 
 
 Having found a great difficulty in raising the crust for a pie with my hands, 
 I purchased for a trifle a tin pie-mould, by the use of which the process is 
 more simple, and the pie retains its shape whilst baking, and secures the 
 gravy, much better. 
 
 Weil wipe and butter the interior of the mould, then have 
 ready two pounds of pate a fonce, rather firm than otherwise, two 
 thirds of which roll out to fit the mould, press it evenly over the 
 interior, raising the paste half an inch above the edge of the 
 mould; you have previously prepared six pounds of veal, cut 
 from the fillet, as follows : cut four pounds into pieces an inch 
 square, and as nearly as possible to the length of the pie; with 
 the remainder make some forcemeat (See Receipt); then run 
 eight pieces of fat bacon, each two inches in length, and a quarter 
 of an inch square, through each piece of veal; have also two 
 pounds of lean bacon, cut into pieces of nearly the same size as 
 the veal, then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying- 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 301 
 
 pan, and when melted over the fire, lay in the veal and bacon; 
 season rather highly with a teaspoonful of salt, the same of 
 pepper, half that quantity of grated nutmeg, and a tablespoonful 
 each of chopped onion and parsley, saute the whole a quarter of 
 an hour, occasionally turning the meat, until getting of a nice 
 colour, and the bottom of the pan is covered with a thickish 
 o-laze; then line the interior of the pie with some of the force¬ 
 meat, to the thickness of half an inch, after which lay three 
 pieces of veal at the bottom with two of the ham, alternately, 
 which cover over with more forcemeat, to about an inch in 
 thickness, then more veal and bacon, with forcemeat again, 
 proceeding thus until lull, finishing with the foicemeat, foiming 
 a dome about an inch above the edge of the paste, and lay a pat 
 of butter with a bay-leaf at the top, then mould the remainder 
 of the paste into a ball, which roll to the size of the top of the 
 pie, wet the edges with a little egg, lay on the cover, which 
 press down with the thumbs, working the edge up gracefully 
 with the thumb and forefinger, to about an inch above the top 
 of the mould, cutting some of the paste away where too thick, 
 and crimp the extreme edge with a pair of paste nippers; then 
 have ready half a pound of puff paste, which roll to about the 
 thickness of a quarter of an inch, from which cut a piece the 
 size and form of the dome of the pie, upon which place it to 
 form a lid (previously wetting the top with a little water), press 
 it down lightly, egg over with a paste brush, edges as well, make 
 a small hole with a knife at the top, and carve any design upon 
 the puff paste according to fancy; tie a band of buttered paper 
 round the mould, an inch above the pie, put it into a moderate 
 oven to bake about two hours, but to be certain if done, run a 
 pointed knife or trussing needle into the centre, and if it feels 
 tender it is sufficiently baked. 
 
 Then take it from the oven, and pour in a gill of strong gravy, in which 
 you have dissolved a little isinglass (especially if in summer); when cold, take 
 it from the mould (which opens at one end by drawing out a pin), and serve 
 upon a napkin, garnished round with parsley. To carve, cut it into slices, 
 the whole breadth of the pie and half an inch in thickneso 
 
 Such a pie as above would weigh about four pounds when baked; but 
 should you require a smaller one, diminish the proportions accordingly . . If 
 no puff paste, the top might be ornamented with a few leaves from the trim¬ 
 mings of the other paste. I have given you the above receipt very minutely, 
 as the above applies to every description of raised pie, the difference only 
 being its contents. 
 
302 
 
 SAVOURY DISHES. 
 
 653. RAISED PIE OR FOWLS.—Make the paste and 
 forcemeat as in the last, hut instead of veal and ham, hone a 
 young fowl as directed for galantine, which lay flat upon a clean 
 cloth, hreast downwards; season the interior with a little pepper, 
 salt, and chopped onions; spread a layer of forcemeat over, half 
 an inch in thickness, have ten pieces of veal, of the thickness of 
 your finger, and the same length as the fowl, and the same 
 number of pieces of fat bacon, lay half of the veal and bacon 
 alternately upon the fowl, well seasoned with pepper and salt, 
 cover over with more forcemeat, then another layer of veal and 
 bam, cover with more forcemeat; then roll the fowl over, making 
 the skin meet at the back; you have previously lined a raised pie 
 mould with paste, then line the pie with forcemeat, half an inch 
 in thickness, lay in the fowl, sprinkle a little pepper and salt 
 over, cover with the remainder of the forcemeat, to form a dome, 
 place a pat of butter and two bay-leaves upon the top, finish and 
 bake precisely as in the last; when done, pour in a gill of gravy 
 made from the bones of the fowl; serve cold. 
 
 654. RAISED PIE OF PHEASANT.—Proceed precisely 
 as for the pie of fowl, but of course using a pheasant; an old one 
 would answer the purpose if kept long enough, but all the 
 sinews of the legs must be taken out in boning it; the fillets of 
 the breast also, being very thick, may be partly cut out and used 
 with the veal for the interior; if in a situation to obtain rabbits, 
 the fillets of them might be used instead of veal for the interior, 
 and the legs for forcemeat. 
 
 For gravy, break up the bones of the birds, which put into a 
 stewpan with a glass of sherry, an onion, a few sprigs of thyme, 
 parsley, and a bay-leaf; let it simmer a minute over the fire, then 
 add a pint of broth and a little isinglass or gelatine, let the whole 
 simmer for an hour, giving it a nice brown colour, when pass it 
 through a sieve into a small stewpan, place it again upon the 
 fire, skim off all the fat, and reduce it to half a pint, and when 
 the pie is baked, pour it in, shaking the pie a little to mix well; 
 serve when cold. 
 
 Pies of grouse, partridges, moor fowls, &c., are made precisely 
 in the same manner, using one or more according to the size 
 you wish to make your pie. The fillets of hares are likewise 
 excellent in pies, whilst the legs might be jugged or converted 
 into soup. 
 
 Capons, poulards, green geese, or ducklings, may also be served 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 303 
 
 in a pie, (proceeding as directed for fowls,) by managing the 
 size of the pie, and seasoning in proportion. 
 
 Pigeon pie can also be made in the same way, but then the 
 meat with which the interior of the birds are filled must be cut 
 much smaller, and requires less time in cooking. 
 
 655. SIMPLE METHOD OF MAKING PIES.—Make 
 two pounds of floor into a paste, as No. 652, and also two pounds 
 of forcemeat ; mould three quarters of the paste into a ball, 
 which, with a rolling-pin, roll to about half an inch in thickness 
 and of an oval shape ; lay half the forcemeat in the centre, which 
 spread over to within two inches of the rim, having prepared 
 and sauteed some veal and ham as directed for the veal and ham 
 pie, No. 652, lay them alternately upon the forcemeat, with 
 which again cover the meat, laying a pat of butter and a bay-leaf 
 upon the top ; roll out the remainder of the paste of an oval 
 shape, but much thinner than the other, damp the paste around 
 with a little water, and lay the sheet of paste over, pressing it 
 down with the finger and thumb, then wet the top, and bring up 
 the paste at the sides, which will stick to it, thus forming a long 
 square pie ; with the trimmings of the paste form a few leaves, 
 with which decorate it according to fancy, egg the whole well 
 over, make a hole in the top, and bake two hours in a moderate 
 oven ; when done, pour in the gravy, as for pies made in moulds, 
 and put by to serve cold. A square piece of puff paste laid upon 
 the top, and ornamented previous to baking, is also a great im¬ 
 provement. Some gravy, as above, may of course be introduced. 
 
 You will perceive, my dear Eloise, from this one receipt, that any kinds of 
 poultry, game, or meat pies, might be made in the same manner. To carve, 
 they should be cut across in thin slices through paste and all. 
 
 When we are alone I frequently make a very small one for luncheon, 
 generally getting half a pound of sausage meat, with which I mix an egg and 
 a little chopped eschalots, frying the veal and lean bacon or ham, and pro¬ 
 ceeding as for the larger ones ; from three quarters of an hour to an hour is 
 sufficient to bake it ; at times I make it with a pigeon, partridge, or two 
 plovers boned, stuffed, and surrounded with forcemeat ; they are very excel¬ 
 lent hot. 
 
 656. TUREEN OF GAME.—I bought the other day a 
 common earthen tureen, for which I gave ninepence; I made 
 some forcemeat precisely the same as for pies, boned a grouse and 
 stuffed it as for a pheasant pie, and seasoning the same: I then 
 lined the tureen with the forcemeat, laid in the bird, which I 
 
304 
 
 SAVOURY DISHES. 
 
 again covered with the remainder of the forcemeat, put two pats 
 of butter and a bay-leaf upon the top, then placed on the cover, 
 fixing it down with a band of common paste laid inside upon the 
 rim of the tureen, and baked it three hours in a moderate oven, 
 and when I opened it about a week afterwards it was most deli¬ 
 cious; when served to table the cover should be taken off. the 
 bay-leaf removed, and a few fresh water-cresses laid over. All 
 sorts of game, poultry, and meat, I have done in the same way; 
 it is quickly done, and very good and economical, as it will keep 
 a long time. 
 
 657. GALANTINES. —Having twice failed in the attempt to make 
 this difficult dish, I was about to relinquish the idea, but having received a 
 small turkey two months back, I could not resist making another trial, and 
 in which I succeeded. It is a rather expensive, but beautiful dish for supper. 
 After having plucked, and singed off the hairs with a piece of lighted paper, 
 I laid it breast downwards upon a clean cloth, and with a sharp-pointed 
 knife, boned it as follows : first I passed the point of the knife through the 
 skin, which I cut open straight down the back-bone, proceeding to clear the 
 flesh from the bones of the carcase until I came to the breast-bone, disjointing 
 the wings and legs, I very carefully detached the breast-bone from the flesh 
 without cutting through the skin. I then removed the carcase with the 
 interior of the turkey. I afterwards proceeded to take the bones from the 
 legs and wings, which is not quite so difficult: for the legs, I scrape the first 
 bone free from the flesh to below the first joint, and chop it off; then cut the 
 flesh round over the knuckle and pull the foot, when the remainder of the 
 bone and sinews will come away together ; lastly, I cut off the wings at the 
 first pinion, and the remaining bone is quickly scraped away. 
 
 I can assure you I found this quite a job the first and second time, ut it 
 is veiy essential to learn, as all kinds of poultry and game are boned in the 
 same manner, and to this description all references upon the subject must be 
 made throughout our little work. 
 
 Have prepared four pounds of forcemeat, as for pies, also 
 some long strips of veal, ham, and fat bacon, which well season 
 with salt, pepper, and chopped eschalots ; put a layer of the 
 forcemeat an inch thick down the bird, leaving two inches upon 
 each side uncovered, then some of the veal, bacon, and cooked 
 ham alternately, which again cover with forcemeat, but not ex¬ 
 ceeding half an inch in thickness (as too much forcemeat between 
 the meat would spoil its appearance), proceeding thus until suffi¬ 
 cient to fill the skin of the bird, when pull over the flaps, and 
 sew it up tightly with a packing needle and small string, and tie 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 305 
 
 it up in a napkin. If handy, a few strips of cooked tongue, and 
 blanched pistachios, laid in alternately with the veal and bacon, 
 greatly improves its flavour and appearance. 
 
 658. SIMPLIFIED WAY OF MAKING THE SA¬ 
 VOURY JELLY, CALLED ASPIC.—Put it in a stewpan 
 with two onions, a carrot, half a head of celery, two cloves, a blade 
 of mace, a good bunch of parsley, a little thyme, and bay-leaves, 
 a knuckle of veal, the bones of the turkey, two calf’s-feet, two 
 ounces of salt, add sufficient water to cover the whole, and set 
 the stewpan upon the fire until upon the point of boiling; then 
 draw it to the corner, skim, and let simmer for three hours; then 
 take it from the fire, leaving it in the stock until nearly cold; 
 then take it out, remove the string from the napkin, and roll the 
 Galantine up tighter, tying the napkin again at each end only; 
 then place it upon a dish, the breast part upwards, set another 
 dish upon it, on which place a fourteen pounds’ weight, which 
 will press and cause it to cut firm; -when quite cold it is ready to 
 serve, having removed the napkin and the string with which it 
 was sewed; the stock, however, should be clarified as directed in 
 the next receipt to make a savoury jelly, which when cold and 
 firm is cut in croutons and chopped, some also with which the 
 Galantine should be tastefully garnished. 
 
 Although at first I had some difficulty with this receipt, I can now see 
 the variety to which it leads, as the same process answers for fowls, green 
 geese, ducklings, pheasants, grouse, partridges, &c., using game with the 
 veal or pork for the interior, and stewing them according to their size ; the 
 bones of game being stewed with the stock will give the flavour to the 
 savoury jelly. 
 
 659. TO CLARIFY MEAT JELLY.—Having passed the 
 stock (made as in the last) through the sieve into a basin, leave 
 it until quite cold; then take off all the fat very carefully, ascer¬ 
 tain if sufficiently or too stiff by putting a small piece upon ice; 
 savoury jelly requires to be rather stiffer than sweet, if too stiff 
 add a little more broth, if the contrary, the stock must be reduced 
 upon the fire until of the proper consistency. When the stock 
 is boiling, and you are perfectly assured of its strength, have the 
 white of four eggs with their shells in a basin, with half a pint 
 of water, two spoonfuls of tarragon or common vinegar, and a 
 glass of sherry, whisk all together; then whisk the stock quickly 
 a few seconds, and pour in the other ingredients whilst whisk¬ 
 ing; continue whisking a few minutes until again upon the point, 
 
 x 
 
306 
 
 SAVOURY DISHES. 
 
 but not boiling; then take it from the lire, and taste if pa¬ 
 latable, place a cover upon the stewpan, which stand a little dis¬ 
 tance from the lire, putting a few red-hot cinders upon the lid 
 for live minutes, tie a napkin by the four corners upon a jelly- 
 stand, through which pass the jelly, having a basin beneath to 
 catch it, pour the first that runs through again into the napkin 
 until it runs quite clear; when all through, pour it in a plain 
 mould or saute-pan, which place upon ice until the jelly is quite 
 firm; then dip the bottom of the mould in hot water, turn the 
 jelly out upon a cloth, and cut it into whatever shapes you please, 
 to garnish and ornament any cold savoury dish; the jelly when 
 warm might be divided, one part kept white, and the other 
 coloured with a little brown gravy or colouring, thus enabling 
 you to variegate in garnishing. 
 
 Should the jelly be required to ornament tongues, hams, pies, 
 salads, or any article when no Galantine is made, then to make 
 the stock, cut the veal into small pieces, and split the calf’s foot 
 in two, put a quarter of a pound of butter in a convenient-sized 
 stewpan, with the veal, foot, a small piece of lean ham, and the 
 other ingredients as directed for Galantine, pour in half a pint of 
 water, put on the lid, and stand it upon the fire until the bottom, 
 of the stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add a gallon 
 of water, let simmer three hours, keeping it well skimmed; pass 
 and clarify as above. 
 
 The knuckle of veal and foot may be served hot with a little 
 parsley and butter, for a dinner previous to your party, with a 
 little fried bacon separately; but for my own part I prefer them 
 plain as they leave the stewpan. 
 
 660. COLD HAM.—Procure a very nice but small ham of 
 about nine pounds in weight, which soak about ten hours in 
 cold water, and simmer three hours in plenty of water; when 
 done, take out and let remain until cold ; then cut off the 
 skin as thinly as possible, but without leaving the marks of it; 
 let a piece remain upon the knuckle about two inches and a half 
 in breadth, which either festoon or vandyke, carve the fat neatly 
 to form a shell, if you can, and glaze it over lightly, serve with a 
 paper frill upon the knuckle, and garnish with savoury jelly, or 
 if plain with a few bunches of fresh green parsley. A handful 
 of fresh hay put in the water when boiling is an improvement. 
 
 661. COLD TONGUE.—Boil a nice ox tongue for three 
 hours, and, when done, take off all the skin, and truss it of a good 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 807 
 
 shape, by placing the root against some fixture, and running a 
 fork through the middle of the thin part into the board upon 
 which it stands; when cold trim and glaze it lightly over, cutting 
 off the greater part of the root, place it upon a dish, garnished 
 either with savoury jelly or fresh sprigs of parsley. 
 
 The remains of tongue that has been served may be cut in 
 two lengthwise, and placed in a pudding-mould, with a heavy 
 weight upon it until cold; it makes a much more pleasing¬ 
 looking dish than the remains of tongue served up with parsley. 
 
 662. GALANTINE OF VEAL.-—When I do not like to 
 go to the expense of a turkey or other poultry for a galantine, I 
 procure a small breast of veal, and take out the tendons, which 
 I stew; take out the remaining bones, and trim the meat to 
 about fifteen inches in length and eight in width, using the 
 trimmings for a ragout; season the interior of the breast, and 
 proceed to lay on the forcemeat, veal, ham, and bacon, as directed 
 for the galantine of turkey, roll and sew it up, tie in a cloth, 
 braise, and afterwards press it in precisely the same^ manner; 
 when quite cold, glaze it nicely and serve, garnisued with 
 savoury jelly; or, if for a large supper, six or eight small dishes 
 might be made from it by cutting it into thin slices cross¬ 
 wise, and dressing six pieces in a border upon each dish, with a 
 little jelly in the middle, or if no jelly, a sprig of parsley or 
 water-cresses; but if served in the latter way, I introduce two 
 ounces of blanched pistachios. When serving the galantine, 
 of course the dishes must be placed at a distance from each other 
 at various parts of the table. I have also made a galantine of 
 a shoulder of lamb in the same way, previously taking out the 
 
 bones. 
 
 663. COLD FILLET OF VEAL.—Roast braise as No. 
 381; when cold, trim neatly, and garnish with jelly or parsley. 
 
 A loin of veal larded through the fleshy part with raw ham, 
 and fat bacon, and roasted as above, makes a very delicate dish. 
 
 A small shoulder of veal might be boned the same as a shoulder 
 of lamb, and made into a galantine. 
 
 664. RIBS OF BEEF LARDED.— -Choose a piece of beef 
 with about four ribs, and cut very long, carefully take away the 
 bones, lard the fleshy part through with strips of fat bacon, well 
 seasoned with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; spread some 
 veal stuffing over, and roll it round, keeping the stuffing in the 
 
 x 2 
 
308 
 
 SAVOURY DISHES. 
 
 interior, tie it up with string, and roast in vegetables as in the 
 last article, leaving it to cool in the vegetables; when cold, 
 glaze and serve, garnish with sprigs of parsley. 
 
 The beef well rubbed with garlic and well seasoned with salt 
 and pepper, previous to spreading on the stuffing, is a great 
 improvement. 
 
 I sometimes leave the bones in the meat, lard the fleshy part, 
 and afterwards roast it in vegetables to serve cold. 
 
 665. PRESSED BEEF.—Procure a piece of brisket of beef, 
 cut off the bones, and salt it as directed (No. 666), but adding a 
 little extra sal prunella to the brine and a little spice; let the beef 
 remain in pickle rather better than a week: when ready to cook, 
 roll it round, tie it in a cloth, and let it simmer gently in plenty 
 of water about seven hours if a whole one, but four hours if only 
 the thin end; when done take it up, remove the string, and tie 
 the cloth at each end, put it upon a dish with another dish over, 
 upon which place half a hundred weight, leaving it until quite 
 cold, then take the meat from the cloth, trim and glaze it lightly, 
 and serve garnished with a few sprigs of fresh parsley. 
 
 666. PICKLE FOR BEEF A LA GARRICK—Take 
 twenty pounds of salt, three quarters of a pound of saltpetre, 
 four cakes of sal prunella, two pounds of moist sugar, two cloves 
 of garlic, with which rub the meat well, and leave it rather more 
 than a week, rubbing and turning it over every day. 
 
 This pickle is adapted for anything that is required red. 
 
 667. SPICED BEEF.—Procure a piece of thin flank of beef 
 about ten pounds in weight, which salt as the last for about a 
 week; when ready split it open with a knife and lay it out flat 
 upon a dresser, having previously prepared six onions chopped 
 very fine, with about ten sprigs of parsley, and the leaves of ten 
 sprigs of thyme, the same of marjoram, two ounces of mixed 
 spice, (without cinnamon,) and half an ounce of black pepper, 
 mix altogether, spread half upon the beef as it lays before you, 
 then fold it over to its original shape, lay on the remainder of 
 the preparation, roll it up tightly in a cloth, boil, press, and serve, 
 as directed in the last article. 
 
 668. PIG’S HEAD, in IMITATION of WILD BOAR’S 
 
 HEAD.—This you may say is not only a difficult dish to do, but a very 
 expensive one. You are right, when you are obliged to buy the pig to possess 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 309 
 
 the head ; but in a small farai-hou^e where they kill a pig perhaps once a 
 year at Christmas, the head can be very easily cut off for this purpose. 
 Being on a visit some years since at a farm-house, I had. the opportunity of 
 having one, and trying my skill upon it ; it was much approved of, both 
 for its ferocious appearance, and its flavour, and it lasted good for three 
 
 weeks. 
 
 The following is the way you should do it: procure the head 
 with as much of the neck attached to it as possible (the hog 
 must have been stabbed in the neck, not hit on the head, as that 
 would have broken the skull); then singe it well over the flame 
 of a fire, wipe it with a cloth, scrape it well with a knife with¬ 
 out scratching the skin, and place it on a cloth upon its skull, 
 open it very carefully without piercing the skin, leaving no flesh 
 whatever upon the bones; bone the neck part, and cut it into 
 small fillets two inches long, lay the head on a board and rub it 
 with half a pound of brown sugar, let it remain for one hour; 
 then place it in a salting tub, and throw over it six pounds oi 
 salt, pour in a separate pan two quarts of ale, add four bay-lea\ es, 
 half an ounce of peppercorns, a quarter ditto of cloves, six 
 blades of mace, eight sliced onions, ten sprigs of thyme, ten of 
 winter savory, and two sliced carrots; stir it well up, and let it 
 remain for two hours; then throw it over the head, which turn 
 every day for eight or ten days, rubbing it well; when sufficiently 
 salted, take it out and dry it on a cloth, lay the head straight 
 before you, skin side upwards; have ready six or eight pounds 
 of forcemeat, but using pork instead of veal, with which cover 
 the head an inch in thickness at the thinnest part; put the fillets 
 cut from the neck in a layer lengthwise in the head, with a long 
 piece of fat bacon, half an inch square, between each, sprinkle a 
 little chopped eschalots, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over, ana 
 continue filling with forcemeat and the other ingredients until 
 you have used the whole and it be quite full; join the two chee vs 
 together with the above in the interior, sew it up with packthread, 
 giving it the shape of the head as much as possible, and fold it in 
 one or two large thin cloths, leaving the ears out and uprig t. 
 
 Braise as follows : Put half a pound of butter in a large braismg-pan or 
 stock-pot, over which put four pounds of trimmings ot pork 01 knuc e o 
 veal, eight onions, two carrots, four turnips, eight bay-leaves, a tablespoo 
 of peppercorns, twelve cloves, ten sprigs oi thyme, ten of marjoram, our 
 blades of mace, half a bottle of bucellas wine, if at hand, and four calf’s feet 
 place it upon a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is coveie 
 
310 
 
 SAVOURY DISHES. 
 
 ■with a clearish glaze, then add four gallons of water and half a pound of salt ; 
 when boiling draw it to the comer of the stove, skim, and put in the head, 
 the ears uppermost, and let simmer seven or eight hours, or according to 
 the size and age of the pig ; but the better plan would be to try it with a 
 trussing-needle; if tender it is done; skim the stock, in which leave the 
 head until half cold, when take it out, partly undo the cloths, and tie it 
 again tighter if possible, and press it in a cover or upon a baking-sheet with 
 three flat pieces of wood, one at each side, with a weight against them, and 
 one upon the top between the ears, on which place a fourteen pounds weight, 
 let it remain all night until quite cold, take it out of the cloths, detach the 
 thread it was sewn up with, cut a piece an inch in thickness from behind 
 the ears, (from which part it must be carved in as thin slices as possible,) it 
 will have a marbled appearance ; trim the head a little, setting the ears in a 
 proper position, glaze it wdth a. brownish glaze, form the eyes with a little 
 lard and a few black currants round, and the tusks with paste, baking them ; 
 have some very fresh tulips and roses, which stick tastefully in the ears and 
 some around, but leaving space to carve ; garnish boldly with croutons, aspic, 
 made from the stock clarified as directed (No. 659); the meat and the calf’s 
 foot may be used for different dishes. See Receipts. 
 
 The second one I had boiled plainer, merely a little salt and a 
 few vegetables; it was very good, but not so rich in flavour as 
 the other; thus saving expense and trouble. They should be 
 eaten with the following sauce: 
 
 669. BOAR’S HEAD SAUCE.—Cut the rind (free from 
 pith) of two Seville oranges into very thin strips half an inch in 
 length, which blanch in boiling water, drain them upon a sieve, 
 and put them into a basin, with a spoonful of mixed English 
 mustard, four of currant jelly, a little pepper, salt, (mix well 
 together,) and half a pint of good port wine. 
 
 670. SOYER’S BRAWN.—Take a pig’s head and prepare 
 it as receipt No. 668, have the feet and ears prepared the same 
 way; when salt enough, which will be in about seven days, remove 
 it, drain it, and place it in a cloth with the skin outside, as boar’s 
 head, place the feet cut up in it with two pounds of sausage meat, 
 and the tongue cut up, and then tie it up tight and boil for three 
 hours or longer, until tender; allow it to get cold, then untie the 
 cloth and serve. To make it larger, a couple of cow heels placed 
 in the same pickle, boiled and cut up in small strips and boned 
 may be added to the head. The above sauce with it is excellent. 
 
 671. FORCEMEAT. —You will find this receipt so useful, and so 
 often in demand for made dishes, soups, fishes, entrees, &c., thatlmustbegof 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 311 
 
 you to devote to it your personal attention; and being rather difficult to 
 execute, be present when your cook makes it, that she may follow strictly 
 the receipt, which 1 flatter myseif is rather original. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of lean veal from the fillet, and cut it 
 in long thin slices, scrape with a knife till nothing but the fibre 
 remains; put it in a mortar, pound it ten minutes, or until in a 
 puree, pass it through a wire sieve (use the remainder in stock), 
 then take one pound of good fresh beef suet, which skin, shred, 
 and chop very fine, put it in your mortar and pound it, then add six 
 ounces of panada (made as under) with the suet, pound them well 
 together, and add the veal, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a 
 quarter one of peper, half that of nutmeg, work all well together, 
 then add four eggs by degrees, continually pounding the contents 
 of the mortar; when well mixed take a small piece m a spoon, 
 and poach it in some boiling water, and if it is delicate, firm, and 
 a good flavour, it is ready for use; if you require some very deli¬ 
 cate, add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, or even thick melted 
 butter; you can vary the flavour by the addition of a spoonful 
 of chopped parsley, eschalot, mushroom, &c ; ; the flesh of rabbit, 
 or fowl, or hare, pheasant, grouse, &c., if plentiful, may be 
 added, using the ingredients in proportion. One quarter of this 
 quantity may be made if required. 
 
 672. HOW TO MAKE QUENELLES OF FORCE¬ 
 MEAT._Have two tablespoons, (dessert or teaspoons according 
 
 to the size you intend making quenelles), fill one of them with 
 the forcemeat, dip the other spoon into boiling water, and with 
 it remove the forcemeat from the first spoon and slip it from 
 that into a buttered saute-pan, proceeding thus until you have as 
 many as you require; then cover them with some second stock, 
 and boil them about ten minutes, or until firm, and they are 
 ready for use, 
 
 673. PANADA FOR FORCEMEATS.—Put two-thirds of 
 half a pint of water into a stewpan holding a quart, with nearly 
 an ounce of butter; when boiling, stir in a quarter of a pound 
 of flour; keep it moving over the fire until it forms a smooth 
 and toughish paste; take it out of the stewpan, and when cold 
 use it where directed. 
 
 674. STUFFING FOR VEAL.—Chop up half a pound of 
 beef suet very fine, put it in a baoin, with eight ounces of 
 bread-crumbs, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little pow¬ 
 dered thyme and marjoram, half the rind of a lemon grated, and 
 
312 
 
 SAVOURY DISHES. 
 
 tiie juice of half one; season with a spoonful of salt, and a 
 quarter one of pepper, and one quarter of a nutmeg; mix the 
 whole with three whole eggs; this will do also to stuff turkey 
 or baked fish , adding some more chopped parsley. 
 
 675. STUFFING FOR GEESE AND DUCKS .—See 
 
 Geese., 
 
 LETTER No. XVI. 
 
 Dear. Eloise, —To you who are so fond of lobster, the following receipt 
 will, I am confident, prove most valuable. To make sure of its quality, buy 
 one fresh-boiled, and heavy in proportion to its size; or, perhaps, entre nous, 
 you would prefer to wait until a friend presented you with one, like that 
 
 Mrs. -, your fishmonger’s wife, who used regularly to make you a 
 
 present of one three or four times a week about a year and a half ago, and 
 that the best she had in the shop, but to whom, on the sly, you used to pay 
 a princely price for, and the poor man your husband, got at last so tired of 
 them, that he went and begged of her to stop her shell-fish (selfish) present; 
 and she, unwoman-like, off her guard, let, as the proverb says, “ the cat out 
 of the bag.” Well, after all, dearest, it is only Nature that was culpable, 
 and not you. 
 
 I have no doubt but what your dear Mr. L-- was tired of them, after 
 
 they having been so long a constant dish at his table, that he used, as you 
 say, to dream at night that he was hunted by the head constable of the raw 
 or even boiled lobster, which is quite enough to torment any man, and all that 
 for having tried to please you in making almost a turbot or a salmon of him¬ 
 self, by serving him out continually with some of your sauce (lobster, I mean). 
 Rut I must say that, after all, he has been well repaid for his culinary tanta- 
 lization. Oh! by the bye, how is he, my little godson? However, knowing 
 that, after family matters, what interests you the most is our domestic 
 journal, I therefore send you the receipts. 
 
 SHELL FISH. 
 
 LOBSTER.—This fish, which is continually before our eyes, and only 
 looked upon as an article of food, is, without doubt, one of the wonders of 
 the creation. A creature destitute of bones, yet furnished with a stomach 
 capable of digesting the hardest substances, even its own shell, which it doff 
 once a year, when it is too small for it; without blood circulating through it 
 body, yet strong and active. This is only one of those wonders of the mighty 
 deep that we cannot but regard with awe and veneration, and yet the prin- 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 313 
 
 cipal interest they excite in us is when we visit a shell-fish shop to choose the 
 largest and best for the smallest price. They are, without doubt., a very 
 nourishing aliment, and are by many supposed to have a particular season, 
 but which I believe not to be the case, as I have known them in and out of 
 season on the same ground. When out of season, the pea or spawn is very 
 large, and about being hatched ; immediately after which it sheds its shell, 
 but not its stomach, as is by many supposed. When in season, and fine- 
 flavoured, they should have no spawn, or very little, under the tail; and when 
 its body is squeezed between the fingers it should not give, but be hard ; its 
 weight will also be a test, as it is a fish which wastes very much when kept 
 lon» alive without food. Great care must be observed in the boiling of it. A 
 number should be placed at one time in a basket, and that placed in boiling 
 water, adding half a pound of salt to every gallon of water, with a heavy 
 weight upon it: if over-done, they eat tough and thready ; if under-done, 
 unwholesome and unpalatable. One weighing a pound will take fifteen 
 minutes, and so on in proportion. 
 
 676. GRATIN OF LOBSTER.—Procure a good-sized 
 lobster, cut it in half, detaching the head from the body; take 
 out all the meat, and save the four shells; cut the meat into 
 slices, then take a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots in a stevvpan, 
 with a piece of butter the size of two walnuts, pass them a few 
 minutes over the fire, add a tablespoonful of flour (mix well), and 
 half a pint of milk, stir over the fire, boiling about five minutes, 
 then add the lobster, which season with a little cayenne, salt, 
 chopped parsley, and essence of anchovies; stand it again upon 
 the fire, stirring until boiling, then stir in the yolk of an egg; 
 take off the fire, fill the shells of the lobster, sprinkle bread¬ 
 crumbs over, with a little butter, put in the oven for twenty 
 minutes; dish on a napkin and serve. To give it a nice colour, 
 use the salamander, or a red-hot shovel. 
 
 677. MIROTON SALAD OF LOBSTER.—Prepare and 
 ornament a border of eggs, like for that of game (No. 686), put 
 a thick layer of fresh salad in the centre, and dress over it, in a 
 crown, the lobster interspersed with slices of eggs and gherkins. 
 The lobster must be divided in two across the back, extract the 
 meat carefully out of it, and cut it in a round or slanting direction 
 to the thickness of a crown-piece, break the claws and cut the same 
 way, and place on salad as above, so as to form a thick crown 
 near the border of eggs, then take the interior of the lobster, 
 pound it and pass it through a fine siere, add to your sauce. 
 
 Any other kind of fish, as cod fish, &c., when cold, cut or break 
 
314 
 
 SAVOURY DISHES. 
 
 them in slices, lay them in a basin, season over with salt, pepper, 
 nutmeg, slices of onion, parsley, a little oil and vinegar; put it 
 in two hours before serving, and proceed as for lobster 
 
 If there is any fish left from the previous day, I always make 
 a salad of it, particularly in summer ; there are many who object 
 to so much oil, in which case it may be diminished. 
 
 678. SALAD TARTAR.—Make as usual the border of eggs 
 and sauce, lay the salad in the middle and the lobster over, which 
 has been previously cut in slices; pour over some of the same 
 sauce as above, having added a tablespoonful of French mustard 
 to it, or if you have it not, add some English, but it is not so 
 good. Gherkins cut in slices and a few stoned olives. 
 
 679. —PLAIN LOBSTER SALAD.—Take a lobster and 
 sixpennyworth of any kind of salad, wash it well, dry in a cloth, 
 cut the lobster up in a salad-bowl, sprinkle over it a teaspoonful 
 of salt, half that of pepper, one of chopped tarragon or chervil, or 
 parsley if nothing better, four tablespoonfuls of oil, and two of 
 common vinegar, but only one and a half if French, add the 
 salad, stir lightly round with a wooden knife and fork, and it is 
 ready. 
 
 680. LOBSTER SERVED PLAIN.—Break the tail from 
 the body, cut it in two lengthwise, put the body in the middle 
 of the dish, lay the half tail top and bottom, and the claws on the 
 side; the shell previously broken, but not disfigured, and serve 
 parsley round. 
 
 681. LOBSTER SALAD.—Dress a border of hard-boiled 
 eggs, as directed in salad of game (No. 686), fill the centre with 
 some nice fresh salad, then take the flesh from a middling-sized 
 lobster, which cut into as large slices as possible, which put into 
 a basin, and season with a little pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar, 
 after which dress them pyramidically upon the salad, and have 
 ready the following sauce : put the yolks of two fresh eggs in a 
 basin, with the yolk of a hard-boiled one rubbed through a sieve, 
 add half a saltspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of white 
 pepper, and commence stirring round with a wooden spoon with 
 the right hand, holding a bottle of salad oil in the left, dropping 
 it in by degrees and continually stirring ; when becoming thickish 
 add a couple of spoonfuls of common vinegar by degrees, still 
 keeping it stirred, then more oil, proceeding thus until you have 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 315 
 
 , „ OA „„ rts 0 f a pint of oil, and a corresponding quantity of 
 ^neear by con^nilly working, it will form a stiffish cream- 
 !ookfn<r sauce perfectly smooth; add a little mole sea *®“ n = 
 
 Should the int e o°anoaer n brin, working 
 
 performed putting a yolk - paste, then stir in the 
 
 &£&&&*&&& 
 fiS2 FISH SALADS.— All fish salads are made precisely 
 as in 2 t'he list from the remains of fish from a previous dinner 
 especially tuHot and salmon; hut for fillets of soles they must 
 
 ^Whenffleted^elt an ounce of butter in a saute-pan lay the 
 pieces and use as lobster. 
 
 NE w MAYONNAISE SAUCE.—Put a quarter of 
 
 a pint'of melted aspic upon ice in ^V'eaLd 
 
 ing until becoming a white froth, then * fi t u an a 
 
 Oif and six spoonfuls of tarragon 
 
 i<? that you may dress it to an\ nei 0 m y ’ , . 
 
 remain s 0 y for a long time ; if the "^“easy 
 
 will remain hours without melting or appearing greasy. 
 
 caa TARTAR SAUCE.—Bub the yolk of a cold hard- 
 
 boiled egg^hrough a hair sieve into a basin to which add the 
 Donea egg --li - n calt and neoner ; mix ail 
 
 yolks ot two raw eggs, wi n - _ ^ ^ , sa lad in a 
 
 together with a wmoden spoon, ha P ® Hronninff it in 
 
 1 4 
 
 until ifhewmes’ rather thirk, then moisten it tvtth “ htt'e wrr^on 
 vinegar, still keeping it stirred, then more oil, and so on until 
 
316 
 
 SAVOURY DISHES. 
 
 you have used all the oil, keeping it rather thick ; then add a 
 tablespoonful of finely chopped gherkins, half a ditto of chopped 
 capers, half a ditto of chopped eschalots, and the same of chopped 
 parsley, two of French mustard, a little cayenne pepper, sugar, 
 and more salt if required; it is then ready for use. This sauce 
 requires to be rather highly seasoned. Common vinegar may 
 be used. 
 
 685. SALMON IN MARINADE.—Have two good slices 
 of salmon cut about four inches and a half in thickness, in a 
 stewpan have three onions cut in slices, as also a turnip, a carrot, 
 a head of celery cut small, a good half handful of parsley, two 
 bay-leaves, and two ounces of butter; pass the whole ten minutes 
 over a sharp fire, then add a pint of vinegar, a blade of mace, 
 half a dozen peppercorns, and one ounce of salt; let simmer, 
 then add three pints of water, put in the salmon, which simmer 
 gently about half an hour, and leave in the marinade until cold; 
 serve with a little of the marinade strained through a hair sieve 
 in the dish. Trout, mackerel, herrings, sprats, and fillets of 
 sole or brill, are also very nice cooked in the same manner. A 
 part of the above marinade may be made at any time, and almost 
 any kind of fish remaining from a previous dinner may be done 
 the same, and eaten cold. 
 
 686. SALAD OF GAME.—Boil eight eggs hard, shell them, 
 throw them into cold water, cut a thin slice off the bottom to 
 facilitate the proper placing of them in the dish, cut each one 
 into four, lengthwise, make a very thin flat border of butter, 
 about one inch from the edge of the dish you are going to serve 
 them on; fix the pieces of egg upright close to each other, the 
 yolk outside, or alternately the white and yolk ; you lay in the 
 centre a layer of fresh salad that may be in season, and having 
 previously roasted a young grouse, rather underdone, which you 
 cut into eight or ten pieces, then prepare sauce as follows: put 
 a spoonful of eschalots, finely chopped, in a basin, one ditto of 
 pounded sugar, the yolk of one egg, a teaspoonful of chopped 
 parsley, tarragon, or chervil, and a quarter of an ounce of salt, 
 mix in by degrees with a wooden spoon four spoonfuls of oil and 
 two of Chili vinegar; when all mixed, put it on ice, or in a cold 
 place; when ready to serve up, whip a gill of cream rather thick, 
 which lightly mix with it, then lay the inferior parts of the 
 grouse on the salad, sauce over so as to cover each piece, then 
 lay over the salad and the remainder of the grouse; sauce over, 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 317 
 
 and serve. The eggs may be ornamented with a little dot of 
 radishes on the point, or beetroot. Anchovy and gherkin, cut 
 into small diamonds, may be placed between, or cut gherkins in 
 slices, and lay a border of them round, or in any way your fancy 
 may dictate. Leaves of tarragon or chervil are very pretty 
 
 round it. 
 
 Black Game , Pheasant , Ptarmigan ,, Partridge , Gray Hen , 
 8fC. fyc. —When we have any of the remains ot these birds, I 
 prefer to use them in this manner, as Mr. B. is very fond of this 
 dish; allow me to inform you it is quite a novel one, and very 
 delicate, and has never appeared in any Cookery Book. 
 
 687. SALAD OF FOWL.—Proceed as for that of game, so 
 far as the eggs and the salad are concerned; then have a chicken, 
 which has been previously plain roasted, or in vegetables, and cut 
 it into ten neat pieces, put it into a basin, season with a teaspoon¬ 
 ful of salt, quarter ditto of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of oil, one 
 of vinegar, one onion sliced, and a few sprigs of chopped parsley, 
 mix them well, and let them remain for a few hours, if time will 
 permit. Take the pieces of chicken, and place in a uish \\ itli 
 salad, as directed for grouse, with the sauce, &c., and serve. 
 Nothing is better for ball-suppers than these kind of dishes; 
 they may be made of all kinds of solid fish, and the sauce i» 
 excellent; any kind of cold meat, cut in slices, diessed round 
 with the sauce over, may be served for supper or luncheon. It 
 may be served with the same sauce or dressing as lor Lobster 
 Salad (or No. 681), or make the following one, which differs a 
 little:—Put into a middle-sized, round-bottomed basin the yolk 
 of two eggs, half a spoonful of salt, quarter of one of pepper, 
 half a one of sugar, ditto of fine chopped onions, ditto of parsley, 
 tarragon, or chervil, stir with the right hand with a wooden 
 spoon, while vou pour some oil out of the bottle by keeping 
 your thumb on its mouth, so that it runs out very slowly; when 
 a few spoonfuls are in it, it will become quite stiff; poui also by 
 degrees a few spoonfuls of vinegar, and so on until you have made 
 enough for your salad; try if the flavour is good and relishing; 
 as the quality of these two last ingredients vary so much, I must 
 leave it to your palate and correct judgment. If you should fail 
 at first, try again until you succeed, and I am certain you will 
 be delighted with the result; it ought to be made in a cold 
 place, particularly in Summer. Great taste should be observed 
 in the decoration of the border, for which you should see the 
 Gastronomic Regenerator.” 
 
318 
 
 SAVOURY DISHES. 
 
 Prawns are best when very red and have no spawn under the tail. 
 
 Cray, or Crawfish. —There are two kinds, the sea and fresh water; in 
 habits they are similar to the lobster. The sea crayfish arrive at times to an 
 amazing size ; they are not considered so delicate eating as a lobster. The 
 river fish is much liked for its bitter flavour, but that depends greatly on the 
 river whence it is taken; the tail is the only part which should be eaten, 
 except when the stomach is ordered by a medical man ; it seems of late years 
 to have been disused. It appears to have been extensively used by the 
 Romans, who had ponds on purpose for feeding them. 
 
 Crabs. —Of these there are innumerable species on the shores of Great 
 Britain ; but the only one fit to eat is the oblong crab, and this ought to be 
 large and the claws full; it must not be partaken of largely, as it is exceed¬ 
 ingly indigestible. They should be chosen when the joints and the eyes are 
 bright and stiff, and there is an agreeable smell from them. 
 
 The Escalop is a fish veiy little used, but is exceedingly fine ; it is in season 
 at the same time as the oyster. It can be cooked in a variety of ways, but 
 previous to doing which, it should be kept some time in salt water, so that 
 it may free itself from any sand that may be in it ; when opened, all the 
 beard should be removed, and only the white, red, and black parts used ; it 
 may be cooked in every way like oysters, and is excellent with matelote 
 sauce of any kind of fish. 
 
 Razor Shellfish or Solen Fish. —This is the aulo of the Romans, and a 
 beautiful eating fish. It is seldom we get it in London, being used by the 
 fisherman for bait. It should also be cooked like oysters, and makes most 
 excellent and strengthening soup. 
 
 Clams are a species of cockle, only found in Devonshire, Cornwall, parts 
 of Wales, and on the west coast of Ireland and Scotland. It is much superior 
 in flavour to the oyster, and if eaten raw, should be about the same size, but 
 if larger, they should be made into soup, or cooked in the same way as the 
 -oyster. 
 
 Whelks have become plentiful in London, and are an exceedingly whole¬ 
 some fish. They are cooked also like the oyster. 
 
 Muscles are fish I do not much approve of; their quality depends greatly 
 on the rock or places from whence they are taken, and their flavour on the 
 object to which they attach themselves or the plants that grow around them ; 
 the weed should be removed, and the small crabs taken out; but as they are 
 excellent bait for whiting, haddocks, &c., I would rather use them for that 
 purpose, and use other shellfish equally as plentiful for my dishes. 
 
 OYSTERS.—Of these there are several kinds, but which I will write to 
 you more fully about in a future letter, when we come to the pickling and 
 preserving ; those we have to do wiih at the present moment are the small 
 kind for eating raw, and the large for cooking. Of the former, the native, 
 which we receive from Milton, Colchester, and the vicinity of those places, 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 319 
 
 the Ostend, and this season those imported from Normandy, the celebrated 
 Eocher de Cancale, and Burton Bindons Bed Bank. A very singular' ~ 
 stance not generally known, is, that the finest oysters we have in England 
 and in Ireland, both come from a place with the same namn-namely.Burn- 
 ham that in England being in the county of Essex, and that in Ireland being 
 in Clare Of the latter, all the deep sea oysters unled are the best, as their 
 flavour is stronger and flesh firmer. No oyster should be eaten under four 
 veTs old ; their age is known by their shell-just the same as the age of a 
 teee is known by its bark, or a fish by its scale, and the small oyster has the 
 
 finest flavour. 
 
 688. ESCALOPED OYSTERS.—Put two dozen of oysters 
 with their liquor into a stewpan, place over a fire, and when b, 
 little firm drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor m 
 another stewpan; detach the beard from the oysters, and tnrow 
 them a-ain fnto their liquor; add half a blade of mace place 
 a<rain upon the fire, and, when boiling, add a piece of butter the 
 sfze of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonfu o 
 flour- shake round over the fire until becoming thick, season 
 with a little cayenne, and salt if required; have an escalop 
 shell well-buttered and bread-crumbed; place the oysters m, 
 sprinklehread-crumbs over, put it in theoven a> quarter^ £ 
 hour, pass the salamander over, and serve. The y &0 
 
 may be added, and less flour. 
 
 fiSO STEWED OYSTERS.— Blanch and beard the oysters 
 as above; when done, pat them with their liquor in a stewpan 
 ^;th four cloves, a blade of mace, and a teaspoonful of essence of 
 anchovies with a little chopped parsley and cayenne, let simmer 
 a minute stir in two pats of butter with which you have mixed 
 half a teaspoonful of flour, let simmer a little longer, lay the 
 oysters in a dish upon a piece of toast, and sauce over. 
 
 690. FRIED OYSTERS.—Open carefully one or two dozen 
 of large oysters, put them in a small stewpan upon the fire, to 
 blanch for a few minutes without boiling, then take out the 
 oysters, put them on a sieve, heard them, save the l.quor for 
 sauce- lay them on a cloth separately, to dry a little, break a 
 freshegg 7 on a plate, heat it well with a fork, then dip each 
 oyster separately into it; have ready about half a pound of bread¬ 
 crumbs, in which you put a spoonful of chopped parsley, little 
 grated nutmeg, roll them in it, take them out, shape them wiA 
 the knife, put them in a small wire basket, one minute onl>, n 
 a few pounds of hot lard or fat. {See Fkying, p. 70.) Dish on 
 
320 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 a small napkin, with fried parsley over it if handy. If no fat to 
 fry in, put a little butter in a tart dish or a plate, put them in 
 the oven for ten minutes, and with a red-hot shovel passed over, 
 give them a nice colour, and serve in a dish. They may be 
 also dipped one after the other in a batter made as for apple 
 fritters (No. 786), fried in hot fat; if oysters are done in batter 
 well made, they will eat very crisp. 
 
 691. SHRIMPS .— Of these there are several varieties; of those known 
 in London, we have the red shrimp, caught in the rivers Thames and Med¬ 
 way, and the brown or Lynn shrimp ; a diversity of opinion exists amongst 
 epicures of this little animal which is the best ; but in my opinion a great 
 deal depends on the manner of boiling, and their freshness. 
 
 The following is the plan I prefer: to one gallon of water put 
 two ounces of salt, one sprig of lemon thyme, and one of mint, 
 a bay leaf, and let it boil; when boiling hard, put one quart of 
 shrimps into an open wire or wicker basket with a handle, and 
 place it in the water; the time they take to boil depends on the 
 size of the fish, but may be known by their changing colour; be 
 particular not to boil them too much, or they will be tasteless 
 and indigestible. 
 
 692. TO PICK SHRIMPS.—Although so many millions of 
 these little sand-hoppers are continually being eaten, yet there are 
 very few whose body is removed from their shell in the proper 
 way. The head and part of the body should be taken up by the 
 thumb and finger of the right hand, and with the left hand take 
 gently hold of three joints of the tail, bend it back a little, and 
 remove the shell of the tail, which will come off at the third 
 joint; then lay hold of the body, which will come out easily of 
 the remainder of the shell. Most persons lay hold of the head 
 and tail only, in consequence they become divided, and then 
 they have to remove the shell in an awkward manner; but if in 
 any way stale, they will never shell easy. 
 
 693. FORCEMEATS OF FISH.—These are much in use 
 in France and other Catholic countries, especially in Lent; they 
 are a very excellent garnish for entrees of fish, and may be made 
 of the flesh of almost all kinds of fish, more particularly the pike, 
 salmon, trout, sole, haddock, and the whiting, which last is the 
 most delicate. 
 
 694. FORCEMEAT OF WHITINGS.—Take the fillets of 
 three whitings, take off all the skin, and pound them well, then 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 3*21 
 
 take them from the mortar, and form them into a ball; have a 
 piece of panada (No. 673) one third the size of the ball, put the 
 panada into the mortar, pound it well, then add two ounces of 
 fresh butter, which mix well with the panada, add the fish, 
 season with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg; mix all 
 well together, and add by degrees three whole eggs and the 
 yolks of two, try it in a little boiling water, as directed for the 
 forcemeat of veal. They are served generally as a meagre dish 
 with a fish sauce, in Catholic families, especially in Lent time. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 In describing to you, dearest, the different ways these may be dressed,. I 
 beg of you to make a constant use of them at your own table, as you will 
 find that they will be much better than partaking of half-raw greens, cabbage, 
 turnip tops, spinach, &c., which are so often served up at tables in this 
 country, and are less inviting in flavour, and consequently, do not get con¬ 
 sumed so much as they ought, which causes more meat to be eaten, and, 
 instead of refreshing the blood, as all vegetables will do in their season, only 
 irritate it. Do not misunderstand me respecting our English way of partaking 
 of plain boiled vegetables ; I do not wish you to give them up entirely, but 
 by adopting both plans, you will find it a great advantage in your domestic- 
 cookery. For my part I never object to our plain boiled vegetables, but 
 merely to the neglectful way they are cooked and served up, often swimming 
 in water. In France, no family in the middle station of life ever dine without 
 their dish of dressed vegetables, upon which as much care has been bestowed 
 in cooking as upon the principal dish of the dinner, and is often eaten 
 
 alone. 
 
 695. ASPARAGUS.—I cook it thus: I take a bundle and 
 scrape lightly all the white part, beginning from the head down, 
 and throw them when done into cold water, then tie them up in 
 bundles of twenty-five each if an ordinary size, if veiy laige, 
 half that number, keeping the heads together, and cut off the 
 ends to make them the same length; have ready a pan contain¬ 
 ing one gallon of boiling water, in which has been thrown two 
 ounces of salt, boil quickly for fifteen minutes, or till tender; 
 dish them up with a piece of toast under, keep the heads even, 
 and form a pyramid. Serve very hot, with rich melted butter, 
 
 cream sauce, or plain if preferred. 
 
 Y 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 322 
 
 The queen of all vegetables, to my fancy, is asparagus. This may almost 
 he said to be a modern vegetable in this country, and it is one which 
 requires less cooking than perhaps any other, and is considered exceedingly 
 wholesome. 
 
 696. YOUNG GREEN PEAS. —Young Green Peas ! Do not 
 these words sound pleasant to the ear, dearest ? I fancy that, by merely 
 raising my eyes from the paper on which I am now writing, I shall see all 
 our garden in buds and blossom; it not only seems to invigorate the sensitive 
 part of one’s appetite, but works upon the mind to that point that you may 
 actually fancy you are breathing in a glowing atmosphere, and that the 
 pearly dew is gracefully descending in small globules from heaven, to fix 
 their sparkling eyes on the pinky bloom of myriads of roses. But, alas ! how 
 soon this charming illusion has disappeared since I have left for a moment the 
 sight of my paper, to give a peep through the gar den-window, where I perceive 
 that though to-day is the 17th of April, the serious and uncheerful Father 
 Winter has once more monopolised those delightful and variegated nuances of 
 Nature, by laying out his universal snowy tablecloth over this for the present 
 ephemeral vision which the inviting words green peas had produced upon 
 my senses : no doubt the effect of a good fire in my parlour, where I am now 
 sitting, has had great influence upon me respecting the summery tempera¬ 
 ture ; but as a few weeks longer will realize my wishes, I shall here content 
 myself by giving you the receipt how they ought to be cooked when you can 
 get them. 
 
 When they are very young, I like them plain boiled, because 
 their original flavour is so fresh and delicate, that any addition, 
 except a little fresh butter, would be certain to destroy their 
 aroma; I even object to the introduction of green mint, though 
 I do not want to deprive you of it, being only a matter of taste. 
 
 Put two quarts of water to boil, with half an ounce of salt, 
 and then place in one pint of peas, boil a full gallop till tender 
 (about ten minutes), put in a colander, drain one minute; lay 
 them, raised in the centre, in a dish, put in them two pats of 
 very fresh butter, and serve. 
 
 When older or larger, boil a little longer, add twelve leaves 
 of green mint, which serve with it. 
 
 697. PEAS, FRENCH WAY.—They do not look so invit¬ 
 ing, not being so green; but I must say they are excellent as 
 regards flavour. Choose them young and fresh; without both of 
 these qualities they would not cook properly. Put into a sauce¬ 
 pan a pint of peas, two ounces of butter, and a pint of water; 
 mix the peas and butter well with your hand, add four button 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 323 
 
 onions, a bouquet of six sprigs of parsley, one ounce of sugar, 
 two saltspoonfuls of salt, and one of pepper, place over a 
 tolerably good fire, moving them often; if getting rather dry, 
 add a wineglassful of water, twenty minutes ought to be enough; 
 when tender, add one ounce of butter, in which you have mixed 
 a teaspoonful of flour, which put in and stir well; make a liaison 
 of the yolk of one egg, a quarter of a gill of cream, which add 
 and stir; take out the parsley and onions, and serve. 
 
 698. ANOTHER WAT.—When large, I stew them with 
 two cabbage-lettuces cut in two, and stew longer; put in four 
 wineglassfuls of water, or more, if required, and finish as above. 
 
 To keep their colour, I often proceed thus for entrees or 
 second courses: I plain boil as above, and put them in a stew- 
 pan, with four small onions, a little mint, parsley, butter, sugar, 
 and a drop of water, simmer a few minutes, add as above the 
 flour, butter, and liaison, and serve; they are very good this 
 way, but not so rich in flavour. 
 
 There are different kinds, but I prefer the Prussian blue 
 
 above all. 
 
 699. SEAKALE.—Proceed exactly as for asparagus for 
 boiling, but previously to boiling cut out the black part of the 
 roots; well wash and tie them about six together, serve with 
 the same sauce as asparagus. There is a kind of seakale which 
 (should you not be dealing with a regular tradesman) you may 
 purchase, that is rank and stringy, and not worth eating; it may 
 be known, when raw, by the outside near the root, which is very 
 tough and hard; the middle size ones are the best. 
 
 700. SPRUE-GRASS.—The longer the green part the 
 better the sprue; take each piece and gently bend it, and it will 
 break off at that part which you require, beyond, it is too hard, 
 and cannot be eaten; when you thus have the pieces, cut them, 
 into lengths of a quarter of an inch, which well wash; have one 
 gallon of water, into which put one ounce of salt, and boil, then 
 put in the sprue and boil for ten minutes, or till tender, then 
 drain on a sieve, put them in a stewpan, with two ounces of 
 fresh butter, half a teaspoonful of flour, the same of salt, two 
 pinches of pepper, half a gill of milk, and place on the fire, stir 
 well together for ten minutes, and serve hot. The yolk of an 
 egg, well beaten with two spoonfuls of cream, may be added to it; 
 and when serviner, also two spoonfuls of white sauce or melted 
 
 Y 2 
 
3*24 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 butter, then omit the flour,—but I always do it as the first. 
 This is for a large bunch. 
 
 701. CELERY.—Cut about ten heads of large celery from six 
 to seven inches long, trim the outside and cut the root to a point, 
 wash it very well between the leaves, tie three together, put a 
 gallon of water, with two ounces of salt, to boil, then add the 
 celery, and boil for fifteen minutes, then drain it, put into a 
 stewpan a small slice of bacon, and lay the celery on it, put 
 it on the fire for two minutes, add one onion sliced, cover with 
 Droth until quite tender, then take it out, and dish on a piece of 
 toast, pass the gravy through a sieve into a stewpan, skim off 
 the fat, reduce it to a demi-glaze, add a little sugar and a small 
 pat of butter, which you have rubbed into some flour, stir it well 
 and sauce over; it ought to be thick, and of a nice brown colour, 
 which produce, if required, by a little colouring. Marrow may be 
 served with it, by taking two good pieces of marrow, and boil for 
 a few minutes in a quart of water, and serve on each side the 
 celery. It can also be cooked plain boiled, and served with melted 
 butter over, and also in eight tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, 
 six of broth, and half a teaspoonful of sugar, in which it has 
 simmered ten minutes; sauce over and serve. 
 
 702. SALSIFYh—I do not know why this vegetable, which is 
 held in such high estimation on the Continent, should be so little 
 esteemed with us; I will here supply their manner of cooking it, 
 and perhaps you will give it a fair trial. Take twelve middling¬ 
 sized ones, scrape them well till quite white, rub each with lemon 
 and put in cold water: put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound 
 of beef or mutton suet, cut in small dice one onion, a bit of thyme, 
 a bay-leaf, a tablespoonful of salt, and four cloves, put on the fire 
 and stir, for five minutes, add two tablespoonsful of flour, and 
 stir well, then add three pints of water, when just boiling put in 
 your salsify, simmer till tender; they will take nearly one hour; 
 dish on toast, sauce over with Dutch, maitre-d’hotel, or onion 
 sauce, or a very good demi-glaze, or Italian sauce. Should any 
 remain, they may be made into fritters thus: put them in a 
 basin, add a little salt, pepper, two spoonfuls of vinegar, half 
 a chopped eschalot, and a spoonful of oil, place in the salsify, 
 and let it remain for some hours, when ready to serve, make a 
 small quantity of batter, dip each piece in it, and fry for five 
 minutes in lard or fat, dish up with fried parsley over. 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 3*25 
 
 703. VEGETABLE MARROW. — Choose eight young 
 small ones, with smooth skin, and put them to boil in two quarts 
 of water, in which you have put one ounce of salt, the same of 
 butter; try with a needle if tender, then dish them tastefully on. 
 mashed potatoes in a dish; put half a pint of melted butter in a 
 pan, when near boiling add a liaison of a yolk of an egg, two 
 pats of butter, a little sugar, the juice of half a lemon, sauce 
 over and serve; if they are rather large, cut them in two length¬ 
 wise; if in smaller pieces, take all the inside out and boil till 
 tender, and warm in the above sauce. You can also make a nice 
 demi-glaze, as No. 137, and let them simmer in it for twenty 
 minutes; do not break them, as they would then be unsightly; 
 they can be made into soup like cauliflower, No. 216. 
 
 704. CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI.—Be very par¬ 
 ticular in. cleaning them, choose them rather small, thick, ana. 
 firm, put them for one hour in salt and water, then rinse them 
 well in water, that all the dirt may be removed from the interior; 
 have a pan of boiling water, in which you have placed two 
 ounces of salt and one of butter, drain, and use where indicated; 
 but if for second course, place them on a dish in the form of a 
 dome, and cover over with some sauce as for vegetable marrow, 
 or plain melted butter, or Soubise sauce if preferred plain; serve 
 it very hot, having drained it. 
 
 705. THE SAME GRATINE WITH CHEESE.—Put 
 into a stewpan ten spoonfuls of white sauce. No. 135, with a 
 little chopped onions, which boil for a few minutes, add to it a 
 quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan, or any mild English 
 cheese; when boiling, add the yolk of one egg, and a little cayenne, 
 mix quick, lay a little on a dish, put two or three heads of cauli¬ 
 flower or broccoli on it, pour the remainder of sauce over, and a 
 little bread-crumbs and grated cheese; put in oven half an hour, 
 give it a nice yellow colour, and serve; if no white sauce, use 
 melted butter, but do not boil it so long, or it will eat rather gieasy. 
 
 706. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.—One of the best and 
 most useful vegetables ever introduced to table, and anything 
 but appreciated as it deserves to be. To prove to you that l am 
 a great admirer of it, you will find it very often mentioned in 
 my receipts. In using them for a second course, I choose about 
 twelve of the same size, peel them, and shape them like a pear, 
 but flat at the bottom, wash them well, boil gently in three pints 
 
326 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 of water, one ounce of salt, one of butter, and a few sliced onions; 
 when tender, I make a border of mashed potatoes on a dish, fix 
 them on it point upwards, sauce over with either cream sauce 
 (No. 301), white sauce (No. 135), melted butter (No. 286), 
 maitre-d’hotel, and place a fine Brussels sprout between each, 
 which contrast is exceedingly inviting, simple, and pretty. 
 
 707. CUCUMBERS are most delicious stuffed and stewed, 
 but very difficult to dress, and consequently chiefly used for 
 entrees. They may, however, be treated like vegetable 
 marrow. 
 
 708. ARTICHOKES.—Pull the tail off four or six small 
 artichokes, trim the bottom slightly with a knife, cut the point 
 of every leaf, wash well in plain water, put them on in plenty of 
 water, with a little salt, to boil, let them thus remain about half 
 an hour, or until the leaves are easy to be removed, take them 
 out and lay on a sieve to drain, and serve on a napkin, with 
 melted butter separate. 
 
 709. BEETROOT.—This is a very good dish, and as I 
 believe it has never been noticed in cookery, I must lay claim to 
 its parentage; I have given the receipt to some friends, who 
 highly approve of it. Take two nice young boiled beetroots, 
 which will take about from two to three hours to simmer in 
 plenty of boiling water, peel when cold, cut in slanting direction, 
 so as to make thin oval pieces, peel and cut in small dice two 
 middling-sized onions, put in a pan, with two ounces of butter, 
 fry white, stirring continually with a spoon; add a spoonful of 
 flour, and enough milk, to make a nice thinnish sauce, add to it 
 three saltspoonfuls of salt, four of sugar, one of pepper, a spoonful 
 of good vinegar, and boil a few minutes; put in the slices to 
 simmer for about twenty minutes, have ready some mashed 
 potatoes, with which make a thin border in your dish one inch 
 high, then put the beetroot and sauce, highly seasoned, in the 
 centre, and serve. A little cream may be added. 
 
 710. FRENCH BEANS.—These are also a great favourite 
 with many. To dress it, head and tail them, drawing off the 
 back string, cut in long diamonds, boil till tender in water in 
 which salt has been placed, a quarter of a pound to a gallon, try 
 them after a quarter of an hour’s boiling, drain them, lay them 
 on a dish one inch thick, sprinkle with a little salt, pepper, and 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 327 
 
 two pats of butter, then put in the remainder, proceed the same 
 at top; serve very quickly, to prevent the butter oiling. 
 
 711 . THE SAME, A LA MAITRE-D’HOTEL. When 
 boiled as above, put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound o 
 maitre-d’hotel butter, when melted, serve. They may be a so 
 served with white sauce thus: put in a stewpan eight spoonfuls 
 of melted butter, season well, simmer gently, add the yolk of an 
 eo-o-, two ounces of butter, juice of half a lemon, and serve. 
 
 719 KIDNEY BEANS.—Head and tail them, string and 
 slit them down the middle, place them for half an hour in salt 
 and water in which you have thrown a little culinary alkali, boil 
 until tender, and serve with melted butter, or a la maitre-d ho e . 
 
 713. BROAD or WINDSOR BEANS.—Boil in salt and 
 water: when done, serve with parsley and butter, or with a 
 
 piece of bacon. 
 
 714. BRUSSELS SPROUTS.—Trim, wash, and boil about 
 forty small Brussels sprouts; when tender, dram, dish, an 
 sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and two ounces of butter over an 
 
 serve. Serve also in sauce, or with maitre-d hotel, like Frenc 
 beans. These are also very good for soups, sauces, or garms . 
 
 715. SPINACH.—This vegetable is very light and very 
 good for invalids. It must be washed in several waters, aftei 
 having been well picked; then put a quarter of a sieve of spinach 
 to n Gallon of boilin'' water and three ounces of salt, boil for ten 
 minutes tdl tender, drain on sieve, press a little with your hands 
 to extract part of the water, chop it up fine, put it m a stewpan, 
 with a quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, half 
 ditto ofpepper, put on a fire with a drop of warm broth for a 
 
 few minutes, and serve. 
 
 716 SPINACH WITH GRAVY.—Proceed as before, but 
 add a tablespoonful of flour, and half a pint of strong gravy in 
 it as No. 186; serve with sippets of bread round. 
 
 717 SPINACH WITH CREAM.— Proceed as before, but 
 putting half a pint of milk or cream instead of gravy, and the 
 additten of a tablespoonful of sugar, cut three slices of brea , y 
 on dish, sift sugar over, putin oven, sa amander o\ er, cut 
 various shapes, and serve under or over the spinach. 
 
328 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 718. YOUNG HARICOT BEANS.—Take a pint, boil in 
 two quarts of water, with a small piece of butter, and half an 
 ounce of salt; when done, which will take only a few minutes, 
 dish and serve; put butter over, sprinkle a little salt, and when 
 on the dish, a gill of maitre-d’hotel sauce or fennel sauce may be 
 served over the larger one, or it is very delicious plain boiled, 
 and with a piece of ham or bacon. 
 
 719. WHITE HARICOT BEANS.—Nothing so cheap or 
 so solid a food as haricot beans; get a pint of fine white beans, 
 called the dwarf—I buy them for fourpence a quart. I put them 
 into half a gallon of cold soft water, with one ounce of butter; 
 they take about three hours to cook, and should simmer very 
 slowly, drain them and put into a stewpan, with a little salt, 
 pepper, chopped parsley, two ounces of butter, and the juice of a 
 lemon, place on the lire for a few minutes, stir well, and serve. 
 The water in which it is boiled will not make a bad soup by 
 frying four onions in butter in a stewpan, adding a little flour, 
 then the water poured over, and a slice of toasted bread, cut in 
 pieces, and served in a tureen. Should the water in boiling 
 reduce too fast, add a little more. They may be dressed for 
 second course a la Bretonne, as for leg of mutton. The longer 
 sort requires to be soaked a few hours before boiling. 
 
 720. MUSHROOMS.—These are good every way when 
 fresh; for a dish take about fifty buttons, cut the roots off’, wash 
 and rub the skin off with a cloth, cut them in slices the size of a 
 shilling, tail and all, put them in a stewpan, with two ounces of 
 butter, a small teaspoonful of salt, two pinches of pepper, and 
 the juice of half a lemon, put them on the fire, simmer till tender, 
 and dish them up on a nice crisp toast; should you require any 
 sauce, add when nearly done, half a spoonful of flour, a gill of 
 broth, milk, or cream, or even water, stew a few minutes longer, 
 pour over toast and serve. 
 
 If very large , they should have been carefully picked, for if the 
 dirt should have got into the under part it is difficult to remove 
 it; cut off the end of the tail and peel the top, put them on a 
 gridiron, season moderately with salt and pepper, turn them, 
 and when done serve them on a very hot dish, and put on each a 
 piece of butter the size of a nut, and a squeeze of a lemon, put 
 in a hot oven for a minute, or before the fire, and serve; a little 
 Harvey’s or Soyer’s sauce is an improvement. They may also 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 329 
 
 9 
 
 1)6 put in tin oven, by laying them in a saute-pan or tin dish, put 
 a little butter and season over each, and a drop of Harvey’s 
 sauce, and let them remain twenty minutes, and serve with 
 
 gravy over. 
 
 721. LENTILS.—Put into a stewpan one quart, add two 
 quarts ot cold water, one ounce of cutter, a little salt, one onion 
 sliced, a bouquet of parsley, set on the fire, simmer till tender, 
 which may be in two hours; when done, drain in a sieve, and 
 save the liquor, which can be made into a soup like the haricots 
 (see Receipt No. 719); put the lentils in a stewpan, with two 
 ounces of butter, a little salt, sugar, pepper, and a tablespoonful 
 of chopped eschalots, set it on the fire, put in butter and floui% 
 mix well, boil ten minutes gently, and dish in a border of 
 potatoes or in a deep dish. It may also be done thus, by fiying 
 till brown one onion sliced in a stewpan, put in the boiled 
 lentils, with two ounces of butter, a little flour, a gill of gravy, 
 and season as above, stir well, boil, and serve hot. 
 
 Gabanza or Egyptian bean may be cooked in the same way. 
 
 722. ENGLISH TRUFFLES.—Put twelve of them to soak 
 for four hours in lukewarm water; then with a hard liair-brush 
 remove all the earth from them; then wash again, put them into 
 a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon, two onions, half a head of 
 celery, half a carrot, a clove of garlic, two bay leaves, a sprig of 
 thyme, four of parsley, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, a half 
 of pepper, two glasses of sherry and a pint of broth; let them 
 simmer for half an hour or more, but till tender; place them in 
 the oven for twenty minutes longer, remove the truffles and place 
 them on a dish; have a little mashed potatoes, and make a border, 
 and place the truffles on in pyramid to prevent them moving, 
 strain the gravy they were in, skim off the fat, reduce it to about 
 a gill, put in a teaspoonful of arrow-root in a cup, with a spoon¬ 
 ful of water, mix it, and put to the gravy, boil a few minutes, 
 pour over, and serve. 
 
 I peeled some of them, cooked the same way; they eat better, 
 but they did not look so well. 
 
 723. SAUTE OF THE SAME. — After having washed 
 them, I peel them and cut them into thin slices, and put about one 
 pound of them into a stewpan; I then add a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, half one of sugar, a quarter ditto 
 of nutmeg, warm over the fire, add a gill of broth, a little flour, 
 
330 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 mixed with, a little butter, stir in, boil, and serve on toast;—or 
 proceed as above, adding a gill of demi-glaze. They can be 
 served with any entrees when properly done, and in all cases can 
 be used instead of mushrooms. 
 
 724. TO COOK SOURCROUT.—Put a quart of sourcrout, 
 with a fat piece of bacon or pork, into an earthen pan, with suf¬ 
 ficient water to cover it, stew for four or five hours, and serve 
 with pork or fried sausages; it is better the second day. It 
 may be procured in any good oil-shop in the winter. 
 
 725. SOURCROUT, BAVARIAN WAY.—Well wash one 
 quart of sourcrout, and put it into an earthen pan, with a quarter 
 of a bottle of Rhenish wine or any other light wine, and stew it 
 for three hours, then add some veal gravy, well seasoned, and 
 stew for three hours longer, and serve with sausages, or when 
 you add the veal stock, put in a duck or a goose, and serve 
 with it. 
 
 726. LAVER is a marine plant (the Uhce Lactuca), which we obtain 
 potted, in London, from the West of England; in Dublin, from Malahide; 
 Edinburgh, from Aberdeen. It is merely washed, boiled, pulped, and potted 
 by the fishermen’s wives. It is considered wholesome, but I see nothing par¬ 
 ticular in it that can make it so unless it is the small quantity of iodine that 
 it contains. It should be dressed like spinach (No. 716), and sent up very 
 hot in a dish over a spirit-lamp, and is generally served with mutton. The 
 following is a new plan I have introduced for cooking it, which has been 
 liked by those persons who formerly disliked it: 
 
 Have some mashed potatoes as No. 733, roll it out the thick¬ 
 ness of a quarter of an inch, cover it with some cold stewed laver 
 nicely seasoned, put another layer of mashed potatoes over, and 
 allow it to get quite cold, when cut it in square pieces, egg, 
 bread-crumb, and proceed as for ramifolles. 
 
 727. GREENS, CABBAGES, SAVOYS, should be boiled 
 in plenty of water in which a little soda and salt has been added. 
 Greens should be boiled whole, the cabbages cut in four pieces, 
 the savoys in two, drain well and dish up. 
 
 728. GREENS, CABBAGES, AND SAVOYS, Stewed.— 
 When these are boiled as above, drain them, place them on a 
 platter, and chop up fine, put into a stewpan and season with 
 salt, pepper, and sugar; a piece of butter, and a gill of gravy, if 
 handy, if not a little milk; stew gen tty for half an hour. (For 
 Cabbage and Bacon, see Stewed Partridge.) 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 331 
 
 729. CAEEOTS, PAESNIPS, AND TUENIPS, should 
 be boiled in. plenty of water, in which some salt has been 
 thrown: they should be boiled in the same size pieces that may 
 be required to be sent to table, not whole, and cut up aftei- 
 
 words and should be boiled very fast. 
 
 These to be mashed should be well boiled, and then proceed 
 
 in the same way as for potatoes, No. 73o. 
 
 POTATOES.—Plow curious it is, dearest, that two of the most simple pio- 
 ductions of Nature—a plant and a root, which were introduced by that pnua 
 chevalier ot Queen Elizabeth, Sir Walter Raleigh-should have produced such 
 wonderful effects as they have upon society; and how singular it is that t 
 one, which might naturally be supposed to be baneful, should he advan tageous 
 and that which was beneficial should be a curse. Such has proved to be the 
 case within these three years ; for whilst the first-tobacco-has produced a. 
 laro-e revenue to the country to aid in supporting its administration, the latter 
 -the potato-has tended to pauperize a large portion of the kingdom, and 
 drained it of its wealth. This root stiff bears its original American name, 
 sivnifyinc earth-apple, and is divided into many species.. Amongst those 
 most common in use are the regent, ash-leaf kidney; but m the sister king¬ 
 dom Ireland, many other varieties are in use; as the lumper, reds, and 
 blacks. There are as many different ways of cooking them as there are 
 
 different species, which I will now describe. _ . .... , 
 
 The nutritive qualities of the potato are small, possessing in 1000 parts 
 only 200 to 260 of nutriment-viz, 150 to 200 of starch, 15 to 20 sugar, 
 
 and 30 to 40 gluten. 
 
 730. PLAIN BOILED or STEAMED POTATOES.- 
 Well wash the potatoes and peel them, and throw them into cold 
 water (that depends upon the kind; if new or young, or a 
 kidney, they should be cooked immediately after they are 
 Dueled whilst others require to remain a long time in soa..); 
 have ready a steamer with boiling water in it, put the potatoes 
 in the top, and steam for twenty to thirty minutes, and serve. 
 Should you not have a steamer, and are obliged to boil them, do 
 so by putting them into plenty of boiling water, and^ boil till 
 tender 1 or breaking, then pour them out into a colander, put a 
 cloth over them, and put them in the screen, or before the the, 
 until you are ready to serve them; they ought always to be 
 sent to table very hot. 
 
 731. BAKED POTATOES.—This is a very favourite dish 
 with many persons; they ought to be of a large size, ca e 
 Eegents, and when cooked very floury. Mr. B. tells me he 
 
332 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 sometimes lunches at a house in the city where the proprietor 
 grows that sort in particular for the use of his customers, and 
 he finds them better if he leaves them in the ground where they 
 grow until wanted, and he has about three days’ consumption 
 taken up at a time. They are merely well washed, and put 
 into a slow oven for about thirty minutes, or longer if large, 
 and served with a pat of butter in a plate. 
 
 732. FRIED POTATOES.—The long kidney potato is the 
 best for this purpose; they should be washed and peeled, and 
 cut into very thin slices, and thrown into boiling fat until a 
 nice light brown colour; dish up very hot, throwing a little salt 
 over. The remains of cold ones may be cut into slices and fried 
 in the same way, or they may be dipped into batter, and fried 
 like fritters. 
 
 733. MASHED POTATOES.— Steam and peel about ten 
 fine potatoes for about thirty-five minutes, put them into a stew- 
 pan or bowl, with two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, 
 a smaller spoonful of pepper, and half a pint of milk, and beat 
 them very well up with a large fork, then add by degrees a gill 
 of milk, and continue beating, and dish them lightly on a dish. 
 Should you require to keep them warm, do so in a stewpan. I 
 do not approve of putting them into moulds and then in the 
 oven, as it makes them heavy. 
 
 734. POTATOES A LA MAiTRE-B’HOTEL. — With 
 young potatoes they are excellent. Boil ten middle-sized ones 
 cut in slices of a quarter of an inch thick, put in the stewpan 
 half a pint of milk or the same of broth, a little salt, pepper, 
 grated nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of fresh chopped parsley, 
 then simmer on fire; when boiling, add a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, stir well lor a few minutes; 
 when each piece is well covered with the sauce, dish up, and 
 high in the centre, as they must appear light. 
 
 73 5. LYONNAISE.—The remains of cold potatoes may be 
 used thus:—Put three ounces of butter in an omelette pan, in 
 which you fry rather white three sliced onions; put on the 
 potatoes, cut in thin slices about the size of half a crown, and 
 saute them now and then until they have a nice yellow colour; 
 add a spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and the juice of 
 a lemon, saute well that it should mix well together, clish and 
 
S;F.COKD COURSE 
 
 3S% 
 
 serve very hot; they are excellent to serve with chop, steak, or 
 any joint. 
 
 736. IRISH WAY OF BOILING.—In Ireland, where 
 this root has been for so long a period the chief nourishment of 
 the people, and where it takes the place of bread and other more 
 substantial food, it is cooked so that it may have, as they call it, 
 a bone in it; that is, that the middle of it should^ not be quite 
 cooked. They are done thus:—Put a gallon of water with 
 two ounces of salt, in a large iron pot, boil tor about ten minutes, 
 or until the skin is loose, pour the water out of the pot, put a 
 dry cloth on the top of the potatoes, and place it on the side oi 
 the fire without water for about twenty minutes, and serve. 
 In Ireland turf is the principal article of fuel, which is burnt on 
 the flat hearth; a little of it is generally scraped up round the 
 pot so as to keep a gradual heat; by this plan the potato is both 
 boiled and baked. Even in those families where such a common 
 art of civilized life as cooking ought to have made some pro¬ 
 gress, the only improvement they have upon this plan is, that 
 they leave the potatoes in the dry pot longer, by which they 
 lose the bone. They are always served up with the skins on, 
 and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest. 
 
 737. FRIED MASHED POTATOES IN VARIOUS 
 SHAPES.—Roast twelve fine potatoes; when done, take out 
 the interior, which form into a ball; when cold, put them into a 
 mortar, with a piece of butter half the size of the ball; pound 
 them well together, season with a little salt, pepper, chopped 
 eschalots, chopped parsley, and grated nutmeg, mix them wit 1 
 the yolks of six, and two whole eggs; then form them into 
 croquettes about the size and shape of a small egg, and bread¬ 
 crumb them twice over, and fry them to a light brown colour in 
 a stewpan of hot lard, and serve as garniture where required. 
 
 738. TO BLANCH MACARONI.—Have half a gallon of 
 water in a stewpan, in which put two ounces of butter and an 
 ounce of salt; when boiling, throw in a pound of macaroni, which 
 boil until tender, being careful that it is not too much done; 
 the time of boiling depends principally upon the quality, the 
 Genoa macaroni taking the longest time, and the Neapolitan 
 the shortest, which last, if too much done, will fall in puree. 
 
 739. MACARONI, ITALIAN WAY.—Boil half a pound 
 of macaroni as above; when done, lay it on a sieve to dry tor 
 
334 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 one minute, put it in a pan, with four spoonfuls of white sauce, 
 add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a little 
 cayenne; place the macaroni over the fire; when boiling, add 
 two ounces each of grated Parmesan and Gruyere cheese, toss 
 round and round until well mixed, then serve with a gill of very 
 strong gravy around it. 
 
 740. MACARONI AU GRATIN.—Proceed the same as 
 above; but after you have put the macaroni on the dish, omit 
 the gravy, and cover it slightly with bread-crumbs, and about 
 the same quantity of Parmesan cheese grated, a little butter, 
 and then put in a hot oven for a quarter of an hour; if not hot 
 enough, pass the salamander over it, and serve very hot. 
 
 741. MACARONI, NEAPOLITAN WAY.—Boil half a 
 pound of the best quality of macaroni for half an hour, as at 
 No. 738; when tender, lay one quarter of it on the dish you 
 intend to serve; have ready two ounces of grated Parmesan 
 cheese, which you divide into four parts to lay over each layer 
 of macaroni, then put over it two tablespoonfuls of strong gravy, 
 made of half glaze and consomme, put the dish in the oven for 
 ten minutes, and serve very hot. 
 
 742. THE REAL ITALIAN METHOD {called a VEstou - 
 fade). —Boil and proceed as before, but make the gravy as 
 follows, and use it instead of the preceding. Take tw r o pounds 
 of rump of beef larded through, put in a small stewpan, with one 
 quarter of a pound of butter, fry gently for one hour, turning 
 almost continually; when forming a glaze, add half a pint of 
 broth, let simmer another hour, take the fat off, and use that 
 gravy instead of that above described; a little tomato may be 
 introduced if handy; serve the beef at the same time in a sepa¬ 
 rate dish. 
 
 743. TO BOIL RICE.—Wash well in two separate waters 
 a pound of the best Carolina rice, then have two quarts of water 
 boiling in a stewpan, into which throw your rice, boil it until 
 three parts done, then drain it on a sieve; butter the interior of 
 a stewpan, in which put your rice, place the lid on tight, and 
 put it in a warm oven upon a trivet, until the rice is perfectly 
 tender, or by the side of the fire; serve it separate with curry, 
 or any other dish where required. Prepared thus, every grain 
 will be separate and quite white. 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 335 
 
 744. CHOPPING OF HERBS, &c.—This may appear a 
 very simple thing* to do well, yet it is often done badly, by 
 which the flavour is lost. They should be well washed and 
 dried, and then take the leaves in the left hand, pressing upon 
 the leaves with your fingers, and chop as fine as possible, not by 
 placing the point of the knife on the board, and raising it and 
 letting it fall, but with a good sharp cut, so that they are cut, 
 not pressed. Onions should be peeled, and cut in halves length¬ 
 wise, and then with a thin knife cut each half in slices, leaving 
 them joined at the root; again cut into slices contrariwise, and 
 then from top to bottom; thus having cut into very small 
 squares, chop it with both hands with the knife. You may also 
 wash them; when half-chopped, press them in a cloth, and chop 
 them still finer. 
 
 OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF PASTRY. 
 
 The variety of pastes is to the pastry what first stocks are to soups and 
 sauces, and must he very properly first described, particularly as it is here I 
 must refer my readers for paste which is used for the hors-d’ceuvre and entrees; 
 to succeed you must be particular in your proportions, and very careful in 
 the mixing ; for, although there is nothing more simple if pains be taken, so 
 w iH the least neglect produce a failure, nor is it only with the making of the 
 paste that pains must be taken, but likewise with the baking, for as paste 
 badly made would not improve in baking, neither will paste, however well 
 made, be good if badly baked ; should the oven be too hot, the paste will 
 become set, and burn before it is done ; and, again, it too cold, it will give 
 the paste a dull heavy appearance, but an oven properly heated (which can 
 be readily known by a little attention on the part of those in the habit ox 
 using it) will give it- a clear brilliant appearance. 
 
 For every description of pastry made from puff paste, try if the oven is hot 
 by placing your hand about half way in, and hold it there about a quarter oi 
 a minute, if you can hold it there that time without inconvenience it would 
 not be hot enough ; but if you cannot judge of the heat, the safest method 
 would be, try a piece of the paste previous to baking the whole ; I apply these 
 few observations to all my friends, but particularly to the uninstructed, as a 
 person of continual practice cannot fail to be aware of the truth of them. 
 
3S 6 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 745. PUFF PASTE.—Put one pound of flour upon your 
 pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put the yolk of 
 one egg and the juice of a lemon, with a pinch of salt, mix it 
 with cold water (iced in summer, if convenient), into a softish 
 flexible paste with the right hand, dry it off a little with flour 
 until you have well cleared the paste from the slab, but do not 
 work it more than you can possibly help; let remain two minutes 
 upon the slab, then have a pound of fresh butter, from which 
 you have squeezed all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to 
 the same consistency as the paste, upon which place it; press it 
 out with the hand, then fold over the edges of the paste so as to 
 hide the butter, and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness 
 of a quarter of an inch, thus making it about two feet in length, 
 fold over one third, over which again pass the rolling-pin; then 
 fold over the other third, thus forming a square, place it with 
 the ends top and bottom before you, shaking a little flour both 
 under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again as 
 before; flour a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, upon ice or in 
 some cool place (but in summer it would be almost impossible to 
 make this paste well without ice) for half an hour; then roll 
 twice more, turning it as before, place again upon the ice a 
 quarter of an hour, give it two more rolls, making seven in all, 
 and it is ready for use when required, rolling it whatever thick¬ 
 ness (according to what you intend making) directed in the 
 following receipts. When I state that upwards of a hundred 
 different kinds of cakes may be made from this paste, I am sure 
 it will be quite sufficient to urge upon every cook the necessity 
 of paying every attention to its fabrication, as it will repay for 
 the study and trouble. 
 
 746. PUFF PASTE WITH BEEF SUET.—Where you 
 cannot obtain good butter for making paste, the following is an 
 excellent substitute; skin and chop one pound of kidney beef 
 suet very fine, put it into a mortar and pound it well, moistening 
 with a little oil, until becoming as it were one piece, and about 
 the consistency of butter, proceed exactly as in the last, using it 
 instead of butter. 
 
 747. HALF PUFF PASTE.—Put one pound of flour upon 
 your pastry slab, with two ounces of butter, rub well together 
 with the hands, make a hole in the centre, in which put a pinch 
 of salt and the yolk of an egg with the juice of a lemon; mix 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 337 
 
 with water as before, then roll it out thin and lay half a pound 
 of butter (prepared as for puff paste) rolled into thin sheets over, 
 fold it in three, roll and fold again twice over, lay it in a cold 
 place a quarter of an hour, give another roll, and it is ready for 
 use when required; this paste is mostly used for fruit tarts, for 
 which it is well adapted. 
 
 748. SHORT PASTE, OR PATE A FONCER.—Put a 
 pound of best flour upon your pastry slab, make a hole in the 
 centre, in which put an ounce of salt, half a pound of fresh 
 butter, and sufficient water to form a stiff paste, mix well 
 together, and it is ready for use where directed. 
 
 749. SHORT PASTE FOR FRUIT TARTS.—Put a 
 pound of flour upon your pastry slab with six ounces of butter, 
 and rub them well together; then make a hole in the centre, in 
 winch put two ounces of powdered sugar, two whole eggs, and a 
 large wineglassful of water; mix the eggs, sugar, and water well, 
 then drown in the flour and mix together, and work it lightly. 
 
 750. PATE D’OFFICE, OR CONFECTIONER’S 
 PASTE.—Weigh half a pound of flour, which put upon your 
 slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put six ounces of sifted 
 sugar, mix it well with four eggs into a stiffish paste, having 
 first well dissolved the sugar with the eggs; work it well, it is 
 then ready for use. 
 
 This paste was very much used when pieces montees were so 
 much in vogue, but in the several receipts in which it is referred 
 to, it is used upon quite a new principle, and very much sim¬ 
 plified; this paste, with the above proportions, ought to be very 
 stiff, but still pliable enough to be worked without breaking; 
 should it be too stiff add more eggs,—or too soft, more flour; the 
 half or quarter of the above quantity may of course be made. 
 
 751. VOLS-AU-VENT, of all things in pastry, require the 
 most care and precision; they that can make a good vol-au-vent 
 may be stamped as good pastrycooks; although many variations 
 in working puff paste, all others are of a secondary importance# 
 Make a pound of puff paste, giving it seven rolls and a half, 
 leave it an inch in thickness, make a mark upon the top either 
 round or oval, and according to the size of your dish; then, with 
 a sharp-pointed knife, cut it out from the paste, holding the 
 knife with the point slanting outwards; turn it over, mark the 
 
 z 
 
338 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 edges with the back of your knife, and place it upon a baking- 
 sheet, which you have sprinkled with water; egg over the top, 
 then dip the point of the knife into hot water, and cut a ring 
 upon the top a quarter of an inch deep, and half an inch from, 
 the edge of the vol-au-vent, set in a rather hot oven; if getting 
 too much colour, cover over with a sheet of paper, do not take 
 it out before done, or it would fall, but when quite set, cut off 
 the lid and empty it with a knife; be careful to make no hole in 
 the side or bottom; if for first course it is ready, but if for 
 second, sift sugar all over, which glaze with the salamander. 
 Regulate the thickness of the paste from which you cut the 
 vol-au-vent, according to the size you require it, the smaller 
 ones of course requiring thinner paste. A vol-au-vent for 
 entrees will take about half an hour to bake, and as the common 
 iron ovens often throw out more heat upon one side than the 
 other, it will require turning two or three times to cause it to 
 rise equal; it ought to be when baked of a light gold colour. 
 
 752. VOL-AU-VENT OF PEACHES.—Put half a pound 
 of sugar in a sugar-pan, with the juice of a lemon and about 
 half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and boil till becoming 
 a thickish syrup; then have eight peaches not quite ripe, which 
 cut in halves, break their stones and blanch the kernels, throw 
 six halves with the kernels into the syrup, boil three minutes, 
 take them out with a skimmer, lay them upon a dish and take 
 off their skins, stew the rest in syrup in like manner, four at a 
 time; when all done pour what liquor runs from them again 
 into the syrup, which reduce to a good thickness, pass it through 
 a tammy into a basin, when cold pour a little over the peaches, 
 and leave until ready to serve; dress the peaches in your vol- 
 au-vent with the syrup over. This is a receipt I learnt in 
 France, where I got peaches for a sou each. 
 
 753. VOL-AU-VENT WITH FRUIT.—These are gene¬ 
 rally used for the second course, and do not require to be so 
 high as the other, especially as the fruit ought to be dressed in 
 the form of a pyramid; if they are cut about three quarters of an 
 inch in thickness it will be enough; when nearly done, sift 
 some powdered sugar over them, and put it back in the oven to 
 glaze well; if not hot enough use the salamander; remove the 
 interior, taking care not to make a hole in the bottom or sides, 
 and fill with any kind of fruit you like, but never mix two 
 kinds together, except currant and raspberry. 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 339 
 
 754. SWEET VOL-AU-VENT WITH RHUBARB.— 
 In the spring of the year, this makes a very inviting and whole¬ 
 some dish, and its qualities purify the blood, which the winter’s 
 food has rendered gross,* cut about twelve sticks of rhubarb 
 into lengths of one inch, put it in a stewpan holding about two 
 quarts, put over it a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a table¬ 
 spoonful of water, set it on a sharp fire, stirring it; do not let it 
 get brown, or it would spoil and lose its flavour; it will take 
 but a few minutes to do; when tender, put it in a basin to cool; 
 a few minutes before serving, fill the vol-au-vent with it, and 
 serve cold. 
 
 755.. DITTO, WITH GREEN GOOSEBERRIES.—A 
 quart of green gooseberries, a quarter of a pound of powdered 
 sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and a tablespoonful of water; 
 put on the fire and move it about for ten minutes, or till tender, 
 and forming a thick green marmalade; put it in a basin till cold; 
 serve in pyramid in the vol-au-vent; a little thick syrup, if 
 handy, poured over, improves the appearance. 
 
 756. DITTO WITH ORANGE.—Well peel six oranges, 
 removing all the pith, divide each into six or eight pieces, put 
 them in a pan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and the juice 
 of one orange, set it on a slow fire, with the cover on, stir it 
 now and then—ten minutes will be sufficient time for it; take 
 out the pieces one after the other, lay them in a basin, reduce 
 your syrup to a proper thickness; when ready to serve, dish, 
 your pieces of orange in it, and pour over the syrup. 
 
 757. ANOTHER METHOD.—Make a thick syrup with 
 half a pound of sugar, put in your pieces by a dozen at a time, 
 just give them a boiling, remove them on a sieve, then add the 
 other pieces; when all done, add the juice, which pass through a 
 sieve, and back again to the pan, boil till a proper thickness, dish 
 up, and serve the syrup over. 
 
 758. DITTO, A STILL PLAINER METHOD.—Have 
 the pieces of orange ready, and put in a stewpan a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar, a wineglass of brandy or rum, stir it well a few 
 minutes, and serve with the liquor poured over. 
 
 759. DITTO, WITH CHERRIES.—Stone one pound of 
 cherries, and put in a pan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered 
 sugar, stew for five minutes, take them down, drain, then reduce 
 the syrup till thick, and pour over at the moment of serving. 
 
340 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 760. DITTO, WITH STRAWBERRIES.—Pick two pot¬ 
 tles of very fresh strav*ff>erries, not too ripe, put them in with 
 two ounces of powdered sugar, a teaspoonful of powdered cin¬ 
 namon, toss them gently in a basin, and serve immediately in 
 your vol-au-vent. 
 
 761. DITTO, WITH APPLES.—This fruit being pro¬ 
 curable all the year renders it one of very great convenience; 
 Ribstone pippins are the best: cut in four, peel them, put a pint 
 of syrup; when boiling, put in your apples, with the peel of half 
 a lemon, and the juice of a whole one, let simmer till tender, 
 put it in a basin, boil the syrup to a white jelly, let it stand 
 till cold, put the apple in the vol-au-vent, and pour the syrup 
 (cold) or jelly over; serve a few ornaments made with very green 
 angelica. 
 
 762. ANOTHER METHOD.—Cut any kind of apple, 
 rather thin, put over a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, 
 the rind of a lemon chopped, the juice of the same, one ounce of 
 butter, and a glass of sherry; put on the fire; toss till tender, but 
 keep it very white; put it in a basin; when cold, dish in your 
 vol-au-vent; whip a gill of good cream, add ten drops of orange- 
 flower water in it, cover over carefully and serve. 
 
 Apple saute with butter, in this way, may be served hot in the 
 vol-au-vent. Any kind of plums or apricots, when plentiful, 
 may be done the same as cherries, and served the same way. 
 
 763. LITTLE FRUIT RISSOLETTES.—I also make 
 with the trimmings of puff paste the following little cakes: if 
 you have about a quarter of a pound of puff paste left, roll it 
 out very thin, about the thickness of half a crown, put half a 
 spoonful of any marmalade on it, about one inch distance from 
 each other, wet lightly round them with a paste-brush, and place 
 a piece of paste over all, take a cutter of the size of a crown 
 piece, and press round the part where the marmalade or jam is 
 with the thick part of the cutter, to make the paste stick, then 
 cut them out with one a size larger, lay them on a baking-tin, 
 egg over, then cut a little ring in paste, the size of a shilling, 
 put it on them, egg over again, place in a nice hot oven for 
 twenty minutes, then sugar over with finely sifted sugar, so as 
 to make it quite white all over, then put back into the oven to 
 glaze; should the oven not be sufficiently hot, take a salamander, 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 341 
 
 or for the want of one, a red-hot shovel, full of live coals, may 
 he used; serve in the form of a pyramid. A little currant jelly 
 in the ring looks well. 
 
 764. FLANC OF FRUIT.—This requires a mould the 
 same as No. 652; it must he well wiped with a doth, butter it, 
 then take the remains of puff paste, and roll it well so as to 
 deaden it, then roll it out a size larger than your mould, and 
 about a quarter of an indi thick, place your mould on a baking- 
 tin, put the paste carefully in the mould and shape it well, to 
 obtain all the form of the mould, without making a hole in it; 
 put a piece of paper at the bottom, fill with flour to the top, and 
 bake a nice colour; it will take about half an hour; then take 
 out the flour and paper, open the mould, and fill it. 
 
 765. FLANCS, with any kind of fruit, like a vol-au-vent, are 
 more easily made, and are equally as good a side dish. This may 
 be made of half-puff or short paste, and fill with raw cherries and 
 some pounded sugar over; bake together. Greengages, apricots, 
 or any kind of plums, will require a hotter oven than for flour 
 only in it, the fruit giving moisture to the paste; if baked in a 
 slow oven will be heavy, and consequently indigestible. 
 
 766. ANOTHER.—If you have no mould, make a quarter 
 of a pound of paste (No. 749), roll it round or oval to your 
 fancy, a quarter of an inch thick, wet the edge all round about 
 half an inch, raise that part, and pinch it with your thumbs and 
 finders, making a border all round, put on a baking-sheet, fall it 
 with one row of fruit—if large, two rows; remove the stones, 
 and sift sugar over according to the acidity of the truit; it will 
 take less time, too, than if in a mould: you see what variation 
 can be made with very little trouble or expense. 
 
 767. FLANC OF APPLES.—I just perceive that I had 
 forgot to give you a few receipts in this way of cake, which I 
 make very pretty when we have a party. Take eight Ribstone 
 pippins, cut in four, peel a nice shape, rub with lemon, put halt 
 a pound of sugar in a pan, cover with cold water, juice of lemon, 
 boil till rather thick, then add half the apples, simmer till tender, 
 put them on a plate, do the remainder the same way, reduce the 
 syrup a little, put the apples in a basin, pour syrup over; when 
 cold, dish in pyramid in the crust, w T hich you have prepared as 
 No 764, pour over the syrup, which should be a jelly. I often 
 
842 
 
 PASTRY 
 
 cut in fine strips the rind of a lemon or orange, boil with the 
 apples, and ornament also with pieces of young angelica pre¬ 
 served, cut in diamond, placing a piece between each apple. 
 Flancs of pears may be made precisely the same way, but with 
 good ripe eating pears, cut in two lengthwise, leaving the stalk 
 cut in half. 
 
 768. A PLAINER WAY.—Peel and cut eight apples in 
 thin slices in a pan, with two ounces of pounded sugar, the rind 
 and juice of a lemon, the rind well-chopped, put on fire, stir 
 till forming a thick marmalade, and tender, melt a little currant 
 jelly, pour over and serve. 
 
 769. SMALL FRUIT TARTS.—The next in order to 
 sweet vol-au-vents, and which are easier to make, are tartlets, 
 their appearance being inviting, and their expense limited, and 
 very easy to serve. They may be made from the trimmings of 
 any puff paste which remains, and should be enveloped in paper, 
 and kept in a cold place, or in the flour-tub. Make them as 
 follows:—Have ready twelve or more small tartlet pans, which 
 butter, line each with a bit of puff paste cut with a cutter the 
 size of a crown-piece, force up the edges with your thumb and 
 finger, put a small ball (made of flour and water) in each, bake 
 them nicely in a very hot oven; when done, take out the ball 
 (which may be kept for other occasions) from the tartlets, and 
 shake powdered sugar over the bottom of each, and glaze with 
 a salamander, turn them over, and shake sugar in the interior, 
 which also salamander; fill with any kind of preserve, marmalade, 
 or fruit, for sweet vol-au-vents. They may be made with cream 
 as follows:—Make your tartlets as before, placing cream instead 
 of the ball of flour, made thus: put half a pint of milk in a stew- 
 pan, when boiling, add half a stick of vanilla, reduce the milk to 
 half in another stewpan, have the yolks of two eggs and a quarter 
 of an ounce of powdered sugar, and one ounce of sifted flour, 
 with a grain of salt, pour in the milk, taking out the vanilla, 
 place over a slow fire, keep stirring till it thickens; when cold, 
 fill the tartlets, and bake nicely in a moderate oven; when cold, 
 add a little jam, have ready a meringue of four eggs (see No. 
 772), lay a teaspoonful of each upon them, spreading it quite 
 flat with a knife, ornament the top with some of the mixture, 
 put into a paper cornet, sift sugar over, place in a slow oven till 
 & light brown colour, and:the meringue quite crisp; if the oven 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 343 
 
 is too liot, cover with a sheet of paper, dress, and serve in pyramid 
 upon your dish. They ought to be of a light colour. 
 
 770. RISSOLE FOURREE.—This is made as the rissole 
 for entrees; it is a very simple receipt, and I vary it continually 
 without the slightest difficulty; instead of making it with orange, 
 
 I substitute apricot marmalade, apple, raspberry, strawberry, or 
 greengage jam; but no jelly, as currant or apple, as it would run 
 through the paste, and look bad. To vary the appearance at 
 table, instead of egging, dust them lightly over with some coarse 
 powdered sifted sugar, then bake them white instead of brown; 
 if the oven is too hot, cover with a sheet of paper, put a little 
 marmalade or jam in a ring which you have selected, and serve. 
 By blanching and chopping a few pistachios, and mixing with 
 the sugar, makes them look very inviting, or even chopped sweet 
 almonds changes the flavour; they may also be filled with any 
 preparation of cream, rice, or vermicelli, prepared as for croquets. 
 
 I also change them by sauteeing, as they are much quicker done, 
 and make a very nice dish. To remove the roast of the second 
 course, I put six at a time in the saute-pan (see page 7-), which 
 must be hot, and saute a few minutes until a nice pam yellow 
 colour, serve with sifted sugar over, or egg and bread-crumb; 
 serve very hot; if any left cold, warm in the oven. 
 
 771. FLANC MERINGUE OF APPLE.—Sometimes I 
 make a meringue of three eggs, as No. 772; when it is hard, 
 cover the apples with it half an inch thick, keeping the pyramid, 
 then I put the remainder in a paper cornet; cut the point so 
 that by pressing it the mixture may go out by degrees, with 
 which I make various designs, according to fancy; sugar over, 
 and put for half an hour to bake in a very slow oven; the colour 
 outfit to be pale yellow; they are equally good hot or cold. It 
 you would keep it quite white, bake it in a still slower oven, and 
 give it a quarter of an hour longer. When I do it so, I merely 
 make dots all over, about a quarter of an inch distant from each 
 other, of the size of small nuts, sugar over, and put a Corinth 
 raisin in each knob, which gives it a good appearance, and ba 
 as directed; when the eggs are just set, you may cover it with a 
 sheet of paper, to prevent it taking too much colour. 
 
 772 MERINGUES IN SPOONS.—Pound and sift one 
 pound' of lump sugar, whisk the whites of twelve eggs very 
 stiff, throw the sugar lightly over, and with a wooden spoon stir 
 
344 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 gently, perfectly mixing the sugar, then with a table or dessert 
 spoon lay them out upon white paper in the shape of eggs, sift 
 powdered sugar thickly over, let them remain ten minutes, then 
 shake off the superfluous sugar, place upon boards which you 
 have wetted, and put them in a slow oven, just hot enough to 
 cause them to be light and slightly tinged; when the outside 
 becomes quite crisp, take off the papers, by turning them topsy¬ 
 turvy and lifting the papers from them; dip your spoon into hot 
 water, and with it clear out the best part of the interior, dust 
 them with powdered sugar, lay them upon a baking-sheet, and 
 put into the screen to dry;'they may be made several days be¬ 
 fore they are required, if put away in a dry place; to serve, fill 
 them with whipped cream, flavoured either with vanilla or 
 orange-flower (but do not make it too sweet), stick two toge¬ 
 ther, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve. Should they 
 happen to stick to the papers, moisten the papers with a paste¬ 
 brush and water underneath; they will come away easier. 
 
 773. GATEAU FOURREE.—This style of cake is exceed¬ 
 ingly simple, and admits of great variation. You must make 
 half a pound of puff paste (No. 745), take one third of it and roll 
 it out several times so as to deaden it, then mould it round with 
 your hands to the shape of a ball, roll it out flat to the thickness 
 of half a crown, lay it on a baking-sheet, put on it marmalade a 
 quarter of an inch thick, reserving about one inch all round of 
 paste to fix the cover on, then roll out the remainder of the paste 
 to the same shape, it will of course be thicker; w r et the edges of 
 the bottom, and lay the cover on it, press it so that it sticks, cut 
 neatly round the edges, and make a mark with the back of a 
 knife about a quarter of an inch deep and half an inch apart all 
 round, egg over, and lightly mark any fanciful design with the 
 point of a knife on the cover, bake in a very hot oven for twenty 
 minutes; when nearly done, sprinkle some sugar over, and sala¬ 
 mander, and serve cold. It may be made with frangipane and- 
 cream and apple marmalade, and then can be served hot. 
 
 774. DARTOISE FOURREE.—The former one must be 
 made in proportion to the dish you intend to serve on, but the 
 following is simple, and looks as well: Prepare the paste as 
 before, but roll the bottom piece square, put it on a baking- 
 sheet, cover with jam, marmalade, or frangipane, leaving one inch 
 at the edge, roll the cover the same size, wet the edges, place it 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 345 
 
 over, trim the edges, mark it down every three inches, and then 
 crosswise every inch; bake in hot oven, sugar over, and sala¬ 
 mander. When nearly cold, cut it where you have marked it; 
 thus, a piece twelve inches square will give you forty-eight 
 pieces; dish as a crown or pyramid, twelve pieces make a nice 
 dish for a party. They may be made of any puff paste which is 
 left, but will not be so light as if made on purpose; can be cut 
 to any fanciful shape you please. 
 
 775. NOUGAT OF APRICOT.—Proceed as above, but 
 lay apricot marmalade all over a quarter of an inch thick, 
 blanched almonds, cut into fillets, mixed with two ounces of 
 sugar, and the white of an egg added to it, bake in a moderate 
 oven, and cut in true lozenge shapes (I do not mean those things 
 called lozenges, but a diamond shape), dish up on a napkin in 
 crown or pyramid; they ought to be of a nice transparent colour. 
 Orange, apple, or quince marmalade may be used instead of 
 apricot. Red fruit preserve does not cook well. 
 
 776. CRUSTS OF FRUIT.—Put a quarter of a pound of 
 butter in a saute or frying-pan, sprinkle a little sugar over, cut 
 four or five slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick, three 
 inches long, and one and a half wide, lay in your pan; take one 
 dozen of greengages, open them in two, they must not be too 
 ripe, lay the skin part on your bread, put a pinch of sugar in 
 each, put it in a hot oven for twenty minutes; have ready a 
 salamander or a hot shovel, and hold it over it for a few minutes, 
 dish and serve hot or cold; the oven ought to be. hot enough to 
 aive a nice yellow colour to the bottom, which will eat crisp. 
 
 777. CRUSTS WITH MADEIRA.—Cut a French penny 
 roll lengthwise in four or five slices, put the yolks of two eggs, 
 with four spoonfuls of milk, mix it in a plate, dip quickly each 
 piece in it, and saute in a quarter of a pound of butter which 
 you have previously melted in a pan, leave them on the fire 
 until they have obtained a nice gold colour on both sides, put a 
 spoonful of apricot marmalade in a stewpan, with two glasses 
 of Madeira, and place on the fire; when on the point.of boiling, 
 pour over the bread, which you have previously put in a plate, 
 and serve very hot. Any preserve may be used, also any white 
 wine; and should you have no French rolls, any fancy roll will 
 do, or stale brioche (No. 11) is excellent for them. 
 
34 6 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 778. CHEESECAKES.— Under this head, in English Cookery 
 Books, are a variety of Receipts, but, in fact, there is only one ; the others 
 may all be denominated tartlets of one kind or the other, and require but 
 little skill on the part of the cook to vary in an innumerable number of ways. 
 The following way to make them is in use in the farm houses in the midland, 
 counties; some which I have received from Stilton, and also from Tuxford, 
 in Nottinghamshire, are excellent. 
 
 Take four quarts of milk and turn it with some fresh rennet; 
 when dry crumble it and sift it through a coarse sieve into a 
 bowl, beat it well up with a quarter of a pound of butter until it 
 is quite smooth (it may require a little more butter, depending 
 on the quality of the milk); mix in another bowl the yolks of 
 four eggs and a quarter of a pound of very fine sifted biscuit- 
 powder, the rind of four lemons, the juice of two, a quarter of a 
 pound of powdered sugar, (some add a little grated nutmeg or 
 cinnamon,) beat these all well up together until forming a stiff 
 cream, then put it by degrees into the bowl with curd, and mix 
 them well together; line some tartlet pans, previously buttered, 
 with some paste (No. 746), and place some of the above mixture 
 in, and bake quick. In some places milk is used instead of eggs. 
 Should you not have rennet, procure some good milk and turn 
 it with the juice of a lemon or a teaspoonful of soda or culinary 
 alkali to a quart of milk; drain the curd, and proceed as before. 
 
 779. RICHMOND MAIDS OF HONOUR. — These delicious 
 
 little cakes, which every inhabitant of London who pays a visit to the most 
 picturesque part of its environs knows so well, derive their name from a 
 period when cookery was not thought to be a degrading occupation for those 
 honoured with that title. It is stated that they originated with the maids of 
 honour of Queen Elizabeth, who had a palace at Richmond. I have a little 
 work now before me, called “The Queen’s Delight,” in which are several 
 receipts invented by the wives of the first nobles of the land, which I think 
 is an excellent example for those housewives who honour this book by their 
 perusal, to imitate. They are made as follows :— 
 
 Sift half a pound of dry curd, mix it well with six ounces of 
 good butter, break the yolks of four eggs into another basin, and 
 a glass of brandy; add to it six ounces of powdered lump-sugar, 
 and beat well together one very floury baked potato cold, one 
 ounce of sweet almonds, one ounce of bitter ditto pounded, the 
 grated rind of three lemons, the juice of one, and half a nutmeg 
 grated, mix these well together and add to the curds and butter; 
 stir well up, and proceed as before, filling the tartlet pans. 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 347 
 
 780. LEMON CHEESECAKES.—Place in a stewpan one 
 pound of white sugar, four whole eggs and the yolks of two, 
 three finger biscuits grated, the juice of three lemons, and the 
 rinds well rubbed with sugar; then add half a pound of good 
 butter, place the stewpan over a slow fire, stir until the mixture 
 looks like honey, put it by in a jar for use. It will keep for 
 years. Any flavour, such as vanilla or cinnamon, may be added, 
 if liked, when required for use. Having made the paste and 
 lined the tins, mix one tablespoonful of the mixture with a tea¬ 
 cupful of good milk, and place a little in each taitlet. 
 
 781. SWEET OMELETS.—Break six eggs in a basin, into 
 which put a teaspoonful of sugar, three of cream, or a few small 
 pieces of butter; put two ounces of butter in an omelet-pan; 
 when quite hot, pour in the eggs and proceed as for Omelets ot 
 Herbs, turn over on your dish, sift some powdered sugar over, 
 salamander and serve. 
 
 782. OMELETS OF PRESERVED FRUITS, viz., Cur¬ 
 rant jelly, Raspberry and Strawberry Jam, Apricots, Peaches, 
 Cherries, &c., are made the same as the last, but, just before 
 turning on your dish, put two spoonfuls of preserve in the 
 centre, sugar over, salamander and serve. 
 
 783. MACEDOINE OF OMELETS.—Instead of making 
 one with eight eggs, make four, with two eggs each, of different 
 kinds of preserves; serve on the same dish, sugar over, &c., as 
 
 before. 
 
 784 OMELET WITH RUM.—The same as sweet omelet, 
 but, the moment of going to table, pour two glasses of rum 
 round, and set it on fire. 
 
 785. BEIGNET SOUFFLE.—Put in a stewpan a pint of 
 milk or water, a teaspoonful of sugar, two ounces of butter, a 
 few drops of essence of vanilla, or any flavour you please; give 
 it a boil, throw in some flour, keep stirring all the time until it 
 becomes quite thick and no longer tastes of the flour, and detaches 
 itself from the pan. It will take about half an hour, as the 
 better it is done the lighter it is ; withdraw it from the fire, stir 
 in six eggs, one at a time, sift about two ounces of sugar, until 
 the paste is of the stiffness of puff paste; have ready a pan of 
 hot fat, into which you drop by a spoon small pieces of paste, it 
 will increase their size; and when a nice colour, take them out, 
 drain, and dish on a napkin, with sifted sugar over. 
 
348 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 786. APPLE FRITTERS.—Mix one pound of flour with 
 half a pint of milk or water, then half a pound of butter melted 
 in a stewpan, mix well together with a wooden spoon very 
 smooth, thin it a little with table-beer or water, whisk the 
 whites of three eggs very stiff, stir in gently; have six apples, 
 peeled, cut in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, the cores 
 taken out with a cutter, dip each piece in the butter, and fry in 
 hot lard about six minutes; to fry well the fat should not be too 
 hot at first, but get hotter as it proceeds; they should be crisp, 
 and of a nice golden colour; serve on a napkin, and sift sugar 
 over. 
 
 787. DITTO, PEACHES.—Skim and cut in halves six ripe 
 but fine peaches, take out the stones, have a batter prepared as 
 the last, dip them in, fry and serve the same. 
 
 788. DITTO, APRICOTS.—Cut in halves, and proceed as 
 above, and sugar over until quite brown. 
 
 789. DITTO, ORANGES.—Peel four oranges, divide them 
 in quarters by the thin skin, without cutting the flesh, and pro¬ 
 ceed as before. 
 
 Any other fruit may be done in the same -way, and can, if 
 required, be soaked in wine or brandy previously, but they do 
 not fry so w^ell. 
 
 790. ENTREMET IMPROMPTU.—Cut some slices of 
 bread off a half-quartern stale loaf, three quarters of an inch 
 thick, and cut it into lozenges two inches long, put into a deep 
 dish, and place in a stewpan half a pint of milk, which boil with 
 one ounce of sugar and the rind of a small orange; when 
 boiling, pour over the bread, which allow to soak for one minute, 
 take each piece, then drain off the milk, have one egg well 
 beaten, dip each piece of bread into it, and then add some fine 
 bread-crumbs, and fry it in light fat until a golden colour, add 
 pounded sugar over each, and salamander over. 
 
 Any kind of preserve, as apricot, marmalade, or currant jelly, 
 strawberry jam, &c., mixed with a little brandy or wine, makes 
 an excellent sauce to be served with this impromptu dish. 
 
 791. PANCAKE WITH MARMALADE.—Put a quarter 
 of a pound of sifted flour into a basin, with four eggs, mix them 
 together very smoothly, then add half a pint of milk or cream. 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 349 
 
 and a little grated nutmeg, put a piece of butter in your pan 
 (it requires but a very little), and when quite hot put in two 
 tablespoonfuls of the mixture, let spread all over the pan, place 
 it upon the fire, and when coloured upon one side toss it over, 
 then turn it upon your cloth; proceed thus till they are all done, 
 then spread apricot or other marmalade all over, and roll them 
 up neatly, lay them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze 
 nicely with the salamander, and serve upon a napkin; the above 
 may be served without the marmalade, being then the common 
 pancake. 
 
 792. GAUFFRES A LA FLAMANDE.—Put half a pound 
 of flour in a basin, with which mix six eggs by degrees, work it 
 into a smooth paste, then dissolve a piece of dried German yeast 
 half the size of a walnut, in a wineglassful of warm w T ater; when 
 dissolved pour it into the basin with a gill of warm milk, and a 
 little salt, mix all well together, stir in six ounces of butter, pre¬ 
 viously melted, also two spoonfuls of orange-flower-water, set in 
 a warm place for nearly two hours, when the mixture would 
 have risen about two or three inches turn it round five or six 
 times with a wooden spoon to bring it down; let remain halt an 
 hour longer and it is ready for use. 
 
 Put the gauffre irons upon a slow fire, to get hot by degrees, 
 wipe them well with a cloth, and rub lightly over the interior 
 with fat bacon, then put in two or three spoonfuls of the paste, 
 close the irons, put them over the fire (turning occasionally) for 
 a few minutes; open the irons half way to see if coloured suffi¬ 
 ciently (they should be of a light gold colour) and very crisp, if 
 done turn it out, proceeding in like manner with the remainder; 
 when finished have half a pound of lump sugar, and a quarter of 
 an ounce of cinnamon, well pounded, and passed through a fine 
 sieve, dip the gauffres into it on both sides, and serve very hot 
 dressed in pyramid upon a napkin. 
 
 793. APPLE CHARLOTTE WITH BUTTER.—For the 
 few following receipts, the russet apple is the one I should 
 recommend, it being the most suitable, not being so watery, or 
 falling in puree; but in case they cannot be obtained, other sorts 
 may be used, which will require to be more reduced in stewing. 
 
 Well butter the interior of a plain round mould, then cut twelve 
 pieces of bread the size and thickness of a shilling, dip them in 
 clarified butter, and lay them in a circle round the bottom of 
 
350 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 your mould; cut also eight small pieces in the shape of diamonds, 
 dip them in butter, and with them form a star in the centre of 
 the circle, cover the whole with a round piece of bread the size 
 of the bottom of the mould, and the thickness of a penny-piece, 
 cut about thirty other pieces an inch wide and four inches in 
 length, dip one after the other in clarified butter, which stand 
 upright, one half way over the other, all round the interior of 
 the mould; then have ready prepared two dozen or more russet 
 apples, which peel and cut in slices, put them into a round 
 stew or preserving-pan, with three ounces of butter and half a 
 pound of broken lump sugar, with a little lemon-peel cut in 
 strips, and a glass of sherry, place them over a sharp fire, tossing 
 over occasionally, but keeping them together in a cake; when 
 quite tender fill your mould (having previously well egged and 
 bread-crumbed the interior), place another round piece of bread 
 (also egged and bread-crumbed) over the apples, and stand the 
 mould in a hot oven until the bread becomes well browned, take 
 out and turn it over upon your dish, have a few spoonfuls of red 
 currant jelly in a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, melt it over the 
 fire, and when quite hot pour round the charlotte; sugar and 
 salamander the top if not quite crisp, and serve. You may also, 
 for a change, introduce a little sweetmeat of any kind in the 
 middle of your charlotte, and use plain pieces of bread a quarter 
 ©f an inch thick, instead of so many pieces for the sides. 
 
 794. APPLE CHARLOTTE {plainer way ).—Cut a few 
 slices off a stale loaf, of the thickness of a quarter of an inch, 
 butter the inside of a mould about two lines thick, cut a piece of 
 the bread the size of the bottom, which place in, line the mould 
 round with the slices of bread, egg the bread with the brush, 
 and bread-crumb over, add the apple prepared as above, any 
 kind will do in the interior of the mould until full; egg it over, 
 bread-crumb, and place in a hot oven for half an hour or more, 
 according to size, and until of a nice yellow colour. 
 
 Currant jelly and wine sauce is excellent served with it. 
 
 795. APPLES WITH RICE.—Peel and quarter twelve 
 good-sized apples, put them into a preserving pan, with three 
 quarters of a pound of sugar, the thin rind of a lemon in strips, 
 the juice of another, and a wineglassful of’ water, pass them over 
 a sharp fire, and when tender lay them upon the back of a hair 
 sieve to drain, then put six ounces of rice into a stewpan, with a 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 351 
 
 quart of milk, place it upon the fire; stir until boiling, then place 
 it upon a very slow fire to simmer very gently until quite tender, 
 placing a little fire upon the lid; if it becomes dry before it is 
 tender add a little more milk; then add a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, and four eggs, stir them 
 well in, stir over the fire until becoming again thick, when put 
 it upon a dish to get cold; then form a stand with it upon your 
 dish eight inches in diameter and three in height, but hollow in 
 the centre, where dress some of the apples, more rice over, then 
 more apples, forming a pyramid; you have previously reduced 
 the syrup drained from the apples, which pour over the whole, 
 and garnish with some very green angelica, forming any design 
 your fancy may dictate. Apples with rice may be served hot 
 as well as cold. 
 
 796. PEARS WITH RICE.—Peel and cut in halves 
 eighteen small ripe pears, which put in a small preserving-pan, 
 with three quarters of a pound of sugar, a little water, and the 
 juice of two lemons, stew them till tender; then lay them upon 
 a dish to cool, and mix three tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade 
 with the syrup, have some rice prepared as in the last, with which, 
 make a stand, but not quite so high, dress the pears in a border 
 in the interior, and again in the centre, dress the remainder of 
 the rice in pyramid; when ready to serve pour the syrup over, 
 and garnish tastefully with angelica round. 
 
 797. APPLES WITH BUTTER.—Peel eighteen russet 
 apples, which cut in quarters, and trim of a nice shape, put them 
 into a small preserving-pan, with two ounces of butter and three 
 quarters of a pound of sugar, having previously rifb-bed the rind 
 of an orange upon it and pounded it; pass them over aisharp fire, 
 moving occasionally until quite tender, have ready buttered a 
 plain dome mould, put the apples into it, pressing them down a 
 little close; when half cold turn it out of the mould upon a dish, 
 and cover all over with apricot marmalade; when cold it is ready 
 to serve. 
 
 798. BREAD AND APPLES, RUSSIAN FASHION.— 
 Put one pound and a half of lump sugar and a pint and a half 
 of water into a round-bottomed copper preserving-pan, place it 
 over a sharp fire and reduce it to a syrup, have ready twenty- 
 four good brown pippin apples peeled and cut into slices, which 
 put into the sugar, keeping stirred until it becomes quite a thick 
 
352 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 marmalade, take off the fire and put it into a cylinder mould, 
 previously slightly oiled, shake it well down, and let it remain 
 until quite cold; then turn it out of the mould upon your dish; 
 have a few spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, which melt 
 over the fire, add two glasses of good old rum, and when partly 
 cold pour over and serve with whipped cream in the centre, in 
 which you have introduced a quarter of an ounce of candied 
 orange-flowers; if any remain it will be excellent to make cro¬ 
 quettes. 
 
 799. APPLES SAUTE IN BUTTER.—Procure a dozen 
 russet apples, which cut into slices a quarter of an inch in thick¬ 
 ness, peel and take out the cores with a round cutter, then put 
 two ounces of butter in a saute-pan, spread it over the bottom 
 and lay in your apples with half a pound of powdered sugar 
 and the juice of two lemons, stew gently over a moderate fire; 
 when done, dress them rather high in crown upon your dish, 
 melt three spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with 
 which mix a glass of Madeira wine, which pour over when 
 ready to serve. 
 
 800. CROQUETTES OF RICE.—Well wash half a pound 
 of the best Carolina rice, which put into a stewpan, with a pint 
 and a half of milk, and a quarter of a pound of butter, place it 
 upon the fire, stir until boiling, then place it upon a slow fire, 
 cover the stewpan, and let simmer very slowly until quite 
 tender; rub the rind of a lemon upon a lump of sugar weighing 
 a quarter of a pound, pound it in a mortar quite fine, add it to 
 the rice, with the yolks of five eggs (mix well), stir them a few 
 minutes longer over the fire until the eggs thicken, but do not 
 let it boil, lay out upon a dish, when cold form it into a number 
 of small balls, or pears, or into long square pieces, according to 
 fancy; have three or four eggs in a basin well whisked, dip 
 each piece in singly, and then into a dish of bread-crumbs, 
 smoothe them gently with a knife, dip them again into the eggs 
 and bread-crumbs, put them into a wire basket, which put in a 
 stewpan of very hot lard, fry a nice light yellow colour, drain on 
 a cloth, dress them pyramidally upon a napkin, and serve with 
 powdered sugar sifted over them. 
 
 801. CROQUETTES OF MACARONI. — Blanch six 
 ounces of macaroni in two quarts of water until tender, then 
 strain and put it in a basin of cold water; when cold cut it into 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 353 
 
 pieces half an inch in length, and put it into a stewpan con¬ 
 taining a pint and a half of boiling milk, in which you have 
 infused a stick of vanilla, boil until it becomes thickish, add a 
 quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, two ounces of butter, 
 and the yolks of eight eggs, stir them well in over the fire until 
 the eggs thicken, then pour out upon a dish, and proceed pre¬ 
 cisely as for the croquettes of rice. 
 
 802. PASTRY CREAM SAUTEED AND FRIED.—Put 
 the yolks of six eggs in a stewpan, with two good tablespoonfuls 
 of sifted flour, mix quite smooth with a wooden spoon; then add 
 a pint of boiling milk or cream, stir in by degrees, and place it 
 over the fire, keeping stirred until it thickens; add an ounce of 
 butter, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of crushed ratafias, a 
 little orange-flower water, and three whole eggs, mix the whole 
 well together, and stir it a few minutes longer over the fire until 
 the eggs set; then pour it out upon a sautepan previously oiled, 
 and when quite cold cut it into pieces one inch wide and two and 
 a half long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, the 
 same as for croquettes, saute them in the same manner, dress 
 upon a napkin as high as you can, with sifted sugar over; they 
 may be flavoured also with vanilla or lemon. They may be 
 varied in shape according to fancy, and may also be fiied in a 
 quantity of lard. 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 Nothing, I am confident, will give you more pleasure than trying the 
 receipts which I am now about giving you ; they are for jellies, that is, 
 those made from gelatinous substances of Animal production. Tney are one 
 of the most wholesome productions of cookery : they are slight.y nourishing 
 and fortifying without being exciting. You will find the receipts as simp e 
 as possible; and you will perceive that, when you have made the foundation 
 stock to perfection, they may be varied in twenty or more different ways, y 
 merely changing the flavour, fruits, or colouis, 
 
 803 JELLY STOCK, made from calf’s feet, requires to be 
 made the day previous to being used. Take two calf’s-feet, cut 
 them up, and boil in three quarts of water; as soon as it boils 
 
 A A 
 
354 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 remove it to the corner of the fire, and simmer for five hours, 
 keeping it skimmed, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, and 
 let it remain until quite hard, then remove the oil and fat, and 
 wipe the top dry. Place in a stewpan one gill of water, one of 
 sherry, half a pound of lump sugar, the juice of four lemons, the 
 rinds of two, and the whites and shells of five eggs, whisk until 
 the sugar is melted, then acid the jelly, place it on the fire, and 
 whisk until boiling, pass it through a jelly-bag, pouring that 
 back again which comes through first until quite clear; it is 
 then ready for use, by putting it in moulds or glasses. 
 
 804. GELATINE AND ISINGLASS JELLY is made as 
 above,usi ng one ounce and a half of either, and boil in one 
 quart of water, reduce to half; if not required very clear, as for 
 lemon jelly, it need not be run through a bag, but merely through 
 a fine sieve. 
 
 805. HARTSHORN JELLY.—Use half a pound of harts¬ 
 horn shavings, boil in three quarts of water, and reduce to one; 
 proceed as before. Also Arney’s jelly powder can be used 
 instead of any of the above, by dissolving in boiling water. 
 
 806. GOLD or SILVER JELLY, or both mixed, is made 
 with eau de vie de Dantzic, mixing the gold or silver leaves 
 with a little jelly, ornamenting the bottom of the mould with it, 
 which place in ice till set, fill with very clear calf’s foot jelly. 
 It can also be made by cutting up a quarter of a sheet of gold 
 leaf in a glass of pale brandy, and use as the former. 
 
 807. MARESQUINO JELLY is made by mixing six 
 liqueur-glasses of maresquino with a quart of clarified calf’s foot 
 jelly; peaches or other fruits cut in quarters may be added. 
 
 808. RUM-PUNCH, CURACOA, NOYEAU, are made 
 with the same quantity, and as the former. 
 
 809. FRENCH JELLIES may be made with all kinds of 
 fresh fruits, filling the mould by degrees, the jelly first, let it 
 set, then the fruit, and so on till full, the mould being buried in 
 ice; when ready to serve dip in hot water, mix it well, and 
 turn out carefully on your dish. In the winter, preserved fruits 
 in syrup may be used, decorating the mould with them, pouring 
 in a little jelly at a time until it is cold, and fill up by degrees; 
 proceed as above. 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 355 
 
 810. ORANGE JELLY.—Procure five oranges and^ one 
 lemon, take the rind off two of the oranges, and half of the 
 lemon, and remove the pith, put them into a basin, and squeeze 
 the juice of the fruit into it; then put a quarter of a pound of 
 sufrar into a stewpan, with half a pint ot water, and set it to 
 boil until it becomes a thick syrup when take it off, and add the 
 juice and rind of the fruits, cover the stewpan, and place it 
 again on the fire; as soon as boiling commences skim well, and 
 add one glass of water by degrees, which will assist its clarifica¬ 
 tion, let it boil another minute, when add half an ounce of good 
 isinglass, dissolved as directed (No. 804), pass it through a jelly- 
 bagj 5 add a few drops of prepared cochineal to give an orange 
 tint, and then fill a mould and place it on ice; turn out as before. 
 
 811. LEMON JELLY is made the same way, only using 
 six lemons and the rind of one; serve quite white, and add a gill 
 
 of bucellas, or any very pale wine. 
 
 Calfs foot stock, reduced and clarified, may be used instead 
 
 of the isinglass. 
 
 812. WHIPPED JELLIES are made from any of the above 
 by placing some warm jelly in a large bowl or basin on ice, and 
 when nearly cold whisking it; pour quickly in a mould set on 
 ice and salt, where let remain till ready for serving; dip it in 
 lukewarm water, strike gently, taking it in the right hand, 
 place the left on it, turn it over, if it shakes in the mould, let it 
 gradually slip off your hand on the dish, and remove the mould. 
 All jellies are removed the same way. 
 
 813 BOHEMIAN JELLY CREAMS may be made of any 
 flavoui-as jellies, and either ripe fruit or with_ marmalade, or 
 jam to which add the juice of two lemons, a pint of water, in 
 which one ounce and a half of isinglass has been dissolved, or a 
 pint of reduced clarified calfs foot jelly, stir together m a bowl 
 placed on ice; when nearly cold, stir quickly in three parts of a 
 pint of whipped cream, fill the mould which should be kept on 
 ice, and turn out as before. A small botfle of Crosse and 
 Blackwell’s jelly may be used instead of the isinglass or jelly, 
 bv uncorking and placing the bottle in a stewpan of hot water 
 till dissolved, or pour it in a clean stewpan and reduce it one 
 * third. Cherries, raspberries, strawberries, currants, and goose¬ 
 berries, must be passed through a sieve; but apricots, peaches, 
 apples, pears, quinces, pineapples, and marmalade, may be used 
 
 A A 2 
 
356 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 as they are. Creams may be made of any flavour, and of either 
 ripe fruits, jams, or marmalade; they are made plain thus: Put 
 the yolks of five eggs in a stewpan, with six ounces of sugar, 
 beat it up with a spoon until white; in another stewpan have a 
 pint of milk and one ounce of isinglass, boil ten minutes, stir 
 continually to prevent burning, flavour with vanilla or anything 
 to your taste, pour the milk on the eggs and sugar, put on the 
 fire, stir well together, do not let it boil, pass through a tammy 
 into a round bowl; when cold, set on ice, add two or three 
 glasses of liqueur, keep stirring its contents, and when setting, 
 add three parts of a pint of cream well whipped; mix well toge¬ 
 ther, and pour into your mould in the ice, and keep there till 
 required; turn out as before. 
 
 814. CHARLOTTE RUSSE.—Line the inside of a plain 
 round mould with Savoy biscuits, cutting and placing them at 
 the bottom to form a rosette, standing them upright and close 
 together, fill with any of the above creams, omitting the fruits, 
 place the mould in ice, let it remain till ready to serve, turn 
 over on a dish, and remove the mould. 
 
 815. STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE.—Line a plain round 
 mould with ripe strawberries by burying the mould in ice to 
 the rim, and dipping the strawberries in calf’s-foot jelly, first 
 covering the bottom with them cut in halves, the cut side down¬ 
 wards, afterwards building them up the sides, the jelly (which 
 must be cold, but not set) causing them to adhere; when finished 
 fill it with the cream as directed for the charlotte russe, and 
 when ready to serve dip the mould in warm water, and turn it 
 out upon your dish. The cream must be very nearly set when 
 you pour it in, or it would run between the strawberries, and 
 produce a bad effect. 
 
 816. CHARTREUSE CAKE OF VARIEGATED 
 FRUITS.—Line a charlotte mould very tastefully with various 
 kinds of fruits (such as stoned cherries, strawberries, pieces of 
 peaches, apricots, &c.) by dipping them into jelly, forming some 
 design at the bottom of the mould, and building them in reverse 
 rows up the sides, having the mould previously placed in ice; 
 when well set, terminate as in the last. 
 
 817. BLANCMANGER.—To one quart of milk add one 
 ounce of isinglass, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of an. 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 357 
 
 ounce of cinnamon, a little grated nutmeg, halt of the peel o a 
 lemon, and a bay-leaf; simmer over a slow fire, stilting til t 
 isinglass is dissolved, pass it through a napkin into a basin, and 
 pour into a mould. This can be made ot any colour or flavoui 
 that will not curdle the milk; the milk of bitter almonds may be 
 added to flavour it. Arney’s blancmanger powder is excellent. 
 
 818. ANOTHER.—Put into bowl about a pint ot clear 
 
 calf’s-foot jelly warm, break six eggs, beat the yolks and pour 
 them gradually into the jelly, beating all the time; put.on ti 
 fire and whisk till nearly boiling, set it on ice or in c0 ' d ’ 
 
 keep stirring till nearly cold, and fill your mould. Tou may 
 add whatever flavour you like. 
 
 819. TRIFLES should be made early in the day on which 
 they are wanted; take a stale Savoy cake, cut it in slices ot 
 one 7 inch thick, and lay it on the bottom of the dish; 
 
 that a thin layer of any kind of marmalade, jam, oi jelly, have 
 some macaroons and ratafia cakes, and lay on a “ c . , , 
 
 whole with some sponge cakes. For a dish nine inches l 
 diameter, mix two glasses of sherry, one of brandy, half a ore 
 of rum, and the same of noyeau, and pour over, and let it luna 
 until it is well soaked, then pour over about one inch thick o 
 rich custard; put a pint of cream into a bow , with some s,f ed 
 su „ ar a squeeze of a lemon, and about a tablespoonful of the 
 whie ’&c:, you have put on the cake, whisk it well up I use a 
 trifle-blower, which saves some trouble; I also use it foi all 
 whipped cream; and as the froth rises remove it with a spoon 
 on to P a clean sieve, where let it drain, then place it on the 
 custard until it is high and handsome. 
 
 I have occasionally, when being in a hurry, and having no 
 cream by me, proceeded as above, and made the whip with t 
 whites of e~gs! and some very white peach or egg-plum marma¬ 
 lade together, until it makes firm froth or whip, which put on 
 
 the custard; this may also be coloured a nice pink. 
 
 Trifles are generally considered unwholesome, It ^ 
 because they L often made too long before they arci wane<k 
 and no spirit-is used in the cake, the consequence is, the cieam 
 
 turns sour. 1V 
 
 The remains of this make an excellent pudding. 
 
358 
 
 PUDDINGS IN MOULDS. 
 
 We hyrve already, in the Comforts for Invalids, given several of the most 
 simple receipts. I prefer using, in these kinds of puddings, as the principal 
 ingredient, stale Savoy cake, or sponge cakes, or ladies’ fingers, and, if I 
 cannot get them, crumbs of stale bread; they may be made in a hundred 
 different ways, according to the fancy and taste of the cook; the mould 
 should be buttered and papered; they may be either baked or steamed. 
 
 There is hardly any of our sex, from childhood to old age, but loves this 
 truly English mixture, which appears upon our tables in a hundred different 
 shapes, but always under the same name ; and I should not fancy my labours 
 complete if' I did not produce a new one of my own invention; I therefore 
 beg you to accept the dedication, as I intend to call it— 
 
 820. PUDDING A LA ELOISE.—It is made as follows : 
 Take half a pound of bread-crumbs, which put in a basin, with 
 two ounces of sago, six ounces of chopped suet, six eggs, five 
 ounces of moist sugar, and a tablespoonful of either orange, 
 lemon, or apricot marmalade; mix all well together, and orna¬ 
 ment the bottom of the mould with green angelica in syrup, 
 and Smyrna raisins, and Jill up with the mixture. Place the 
 mould in a stewpan containing water to half the height of the 
 mould, and boil gently for two hours; remove it from the mould, 
 and serve with a sauce made of. a tablespoonful of either of the 
 marmalades, or of currant or apple jelly and two glasses of sherry 
 poured over. This, I assure you, received great praise from 
 the little party of juveniles that I had the other day. 
 
 821. PUDDING A LA HEINE.—Butter and paper the 
 mould, fill up with cake or bread-crumbs, when full pour some 
 custard in until it will hold no more; this may be flavoured with 
 any white liquor or essence you please, for instance, citron (then 
 it is called Pudding a la Heine au Citron) or orange; use peel 
 thinly sliced, and so on for any flavour you may give it. Steam 
 or bake for thirty minutes. 
 
 822. MINCE-MEAT PUDDING.—Butter and paper the 
 mould, then put a layer of cake and a layer of mince-meat alter¬ 
 nately, till full, then add the custard. Bake for thirty-five 
 minutes. 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 359 
 
 S23 DEMI-PLUM PUDDING —Prepare the mould, then 
 odd a lover of plum pudding, broken in pieces, that has been 
 left from the previous day,° altc mutely, till full fill up tnfli 
 custard, and steam or bake for thirty minutes, xhe lemains o 
 any kind of pudding may be used thus. 
 
 094 TRIFLE PUDDING.—Prepare the mould and fill 
 
 With tire same ingredients as directed for ‘f'"f 
 
 the wine &c., is well soaked m before adding the custaia. 
 Steam or bake thirty minutes. The sides and tops of these 
 puddings may be ornamented with cut angelica, hops, or candm 
 ^anoe S or lemon peel, in any fanciful design you please, and they 
 may Toe served with any kmdol wine sauce. 
 
 825 CARROT PUDDING.—Mix in a bowl half a pound 
 of Hour, half a pound of chopped suet, three quarters 0 a P°™ 
 of grated carrot, a quarter of a pound of raisins stoned a q 
 
 of a pound of currants, and a quarter of a pound of su a 
 or sifted white; place these m a mou.d or dish, beat up tw 
 whole eggs, the yolks of four ir. a gill of milk, grate a little nut- 
 meg in I"and add it to the former; bake or steam forty-five 
 
 minutes. „ . , 
 
 nno POT LFGE PUDDING, on, DUMPLING.—Take two 
 handfuhfof bread-crumbs, half a pound of currants, half a pound 
 of beef marrow, or suet, chopped fine, three whoe> egg*, » 
 nutmeg and salt, moisten with a little milk and brandy then oU 
 
 them up in the shape of an egg, ,11 eggs 
 
 them in clarified fat, serve them on a napkin ^* wme^sauce 
 ina boat. If required in moulds, dilute tt 
 little more milk, and steam them thirty minutes. 
 
 827 BROWN BREAD PUDDING.—Brown bread cut in 
 slices and baked in the oven until crisp, then powder it, pass 
 through a sieve, and soak it with two spoonfuls of rum and 
 brandv- then make a mixture well worked with six yolks o 
 eg Aen Tdd the bread the same as flour, and 
 vSppeT seasoned wifi .. * 
 
 bread, crumbed, and baked or steamed f or one hour. 1 01 «ie sa^ 
 a little port-wine, currants, almonas, and citro. 
 
 828. BROWN BREAD PUDDING 
 _Take two ounces of pounded almonds, mix it v ith set en yoi 
 
BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 3G0 
 
 of egg flavoured with a little ground spice, add to it four table¬ 
 spoonfuls of brown bread-crumbs soaked in brandy, butter and 
 bread-crumb the mould; when ready, add the whites of eggs, 
 well beaten, to the mixture, and bake in a slow oven for an hour 
 and a half—on a trivet, if the oven is too hot; the same sauce as 
 above. 
 
 829. PRESERVED GINGER PUDDING.—Take six 
 ounces of butter, to which add six ounces of flour, and stir it 
 over a slow fire; have a pint and a half of boiling milk, which 
 mix gradually with the above over the fire, then add the yolks 
 of six eggs, and half a pound of preserved ginger, cut fine, whip 
 the whites well, and add them the last thing, place in a mould, 
 and steam for an hour and a half; serve custard sauce with it. 
 
 BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 The principal one, and the most celebrated, is the plum pudding. 
 
 830. PLUM PUDDING.—Pick and stone one pound of the 
 best Malaga raisins, which put in a basin, with one pound 
 of currants (well washed, dried, and picked), a pound and a half 
 of good beef suet (chopped, but not too fine), three quarters of 
 a pound of white or brown sugar, two ounces of candied lemon 
 and orange-peel, two ounces of candied citron, six ounces of 
 flour, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, with a little 
 grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, with eight whole 
 eggs and a little milk; have ready a plain or ornamented pudding- 
 mould, well butter the interior, pour the above mixture into it, 
 cover a sheet of paper over, tie the mould in a cloth, put the 
 pudding into a large stewpan containing boiling water, and let 
 boil quite fast for four hours and a half (or it may be boiled by 
 merely tying it in a pudding-cloth, previously well floured, form¬ 
 ing the shape by lay ing the cloth in a round-bottomed basin and 
 pouring the mixture in, it will make no difference in the time 
 required for boiling); when done, take out of the cloth, turn 
 from the mould upon your dish, sprinkle a little powdered sugar 
 over, and serve with the following sauce in a boat:—Put the 
 yolks of three eggs in a stewpan, with a spoonful of powdered 
 ugar, and a gill of milk; mix well together, add a little lemon- 
 peel, and stir over the fire until becoming thickish (but do not 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 361 
 
 let it boil), when add two glasses of brandy, and serve sepa- 
 
 The above sauce may be served poured over the pudding, it 
 
 ^ An'excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half 
 a pound of beef marrow cut into small dice, omitting the same 
 
 quantity of suet. 
 
 831. ROWLEY POWLEY.—Roll out about two pounds of 
 paste (No. 746), cover it with any jam or marmalade you like, 
 roll it over and tie it loose in a cloth, well tying each end; boil 
 one hour and serve, or cut it in slices and serve with sauce over. 
 
 832 PLUM BOLSTER, OR SPOTTED DICK. — Roll 
 out two pounds of paste (No. 746), have some Smyrna raisins 
 well washed, and place them on it here and there, roll ovei, tie 
 in a cloth, and boil one hour, and serve with butter and brown 
 
 sugar. 
 
 833. PLAIN BOLSTER.—Roll as above, sift some white 
 or brown sugar over it; the addition of a little powdered cinna¬ 
 mon to the sugar is an improvement; roll over and proceed as 
 
 before. 
 
 834. APPLE DUMPLINGS.—Peel and cut out the core 
 with a cutter, cover it with paste (No. 746), tie m a cloth, an. 
 boil according to size; these are all the better for being boi ed 
 and kept in the cloth, hung up for four or six weeks, and re¬ 
 warmed. They may likewise be baked. These kind of boiled 
 puddings, containing a large quantity of paste, should be mat e 
 with flour, in which is mixed one saltspoonful of culinary alkali 
 powder to four pounds of flour, which will cause them to be 
 
 much lighter. 
 
 BAKED PUDDINGS. 
 
 835. MARROW' PUDDING may be made in various ways; 
 it is best with half a pound of ladies’ finger cakes, and a quarter 
 of a pound of beef marrow, chopped fine, a quarter of a pound 
 of currants well cleaned, half an ounce of candied lemon-peel, a 
 little nutmeg, a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a saltspoon u 
 of salt, and half a wineglassful of wine or brandy; put these on a 
 dish, arid fill up with custard, having previously put a bordei of 
 paste on the rim; about half an hour will bake it. 
 
362 
 
 BAKED PUDDINGS. 
 
 836. CUSTARD PUDDING.—Make a border of paste on 
 the dish, and fill up with custard, grate a little nutmeg on the 
 top. 
 
 Any kind of fruit puddings with custard may be made in the 
 same way, by placing them in the custard, and sift some finely- 
 powdered sugar over, before going to the baker’s. 
 
 837. FRUIT PUDDINGS are best fnade in a basin, the 
 basin to be buttered and lined with the paste, and then filled 
 with the fruit, which cover with the paste: the paste should be 
 rolled round to the thickness of half an inch, and when the fruit 
 is in, drawn to the centre, and squeezed, and then tied up in a 
 cloth kept on purpose, and boiled in plenty of water; when done, 
 which will be according to the nature of the fruit you put in it, 
 serve it either turned out of the basin or not. The cover should 
 be of the same thickness as the sides. Sugar should be added 
 before being covered. 
 
 838. COCOA-NUT PUDDING.—Remove the shell of the 
 cocoa-nut and cut the brown skin away, cut the nut in pieces 
 and place it in cold water, remove it and wipe it dry, grate 
 about a quarter of a pound of a large one, very fine, into a plate. 
 Place in a basin a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar, 
 and three ounces and a half of fresh butter, stir them together 
 until it becomes like cream; add to it a tablespoonful of brandy, 
 and about four drops of either essence of vanille, or any other 
 essence whose flavour may be preferred. Place the white of 
 six eggs into a bowl, and beat them well up; then add gradually 
 the butter and sugar, which keep stirring at the same time; add 
 by degrees the cocoa-nut. Cover a pie-dish with puff paste, 
 place the mixture in it, and bake in a moderate oven for about 
 half an hour. Glaze it with powdered sugar and powdered 
 cinnamon mixed. 
 
 839. APPLES should be pared, cored, and cut in quarters, 
 
 and put in with some sugar, a few cloves, and a bit of lemon- 
 peel. ^ 
 
 840. WALL FRUIT —as Peaches , Nectarmes , Apricots , and 
 Plums ,—should be cut in half, and the kernels extracted from 
 the stones and added, a little cream, according to the size of the 
 pudding, in which a little grated cinnamon is added, may be put 
 in at the same time as the fruit; use but little sugar. 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 383 
 
 ^ Way ' 
 
 842. MINCE MEAT.-Proc„re four^pound^and^Ifrf 
 
 kidney beef suet, wlucn non and orange-peel; the same 
 
 a quarter of a pound of candied b P ef , a „d three 
 
 of citron, a whole separately chopped very 
 
 pounds and a halt o I P with four p0 unds and a half of 
 
 fine, and put into a urg • P tw0 ounces of mixed spice, 
 
 currants, well washed a J? 1 Vhole we ll together with the 
 
 “wSfln^d chopped, may likewise be added to the 
 above.’ It is ready for m a &W days. ^ ^ and 
 
 The mince meat as made follows: 2401 bs. raisins; 
 
 made one month previous o^'i ,=> 31bs- cinnamon; 81bs. 
 
 4001bs. currants; 2 ° 0 ibs. lump allspice . 21bs. ginger; 
 
 nutmegs; 31 bs cloves; 31b ^g of P pp les; 240 lemons; 
 
 300lbs. Deef; 3 o 01 bs. suet, ^ d 3 ib s . mace; 601bs. 
 
 301bs. of cedret; 72 bottles of brandy, 
 
 lemon-peel; 601bs. orange-peel. . 
 
 843. MINCE PIES. Have a piece^ P”^ 8 
 
 out to the thickness of with a round 
 
 pans, which lighdy bnt^ ort ojrttwdve pe^ lay 
 
 cutter from the pas e, e ; mm ; n „ 0 f the paste again to the 
 them upon the slab, loll t nieces, with which line the 
 
 former thickness, cut twelv P at ma de a3 above, in each, 
 
 tartlet-pans; put a piece of mm hole with a pin in 
 
 W et them roundegg over lightly, 
 
 Indb^rabTut twenty minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 844. FRUIT PIES -These are 
 
 X-, mark the edge with 
 
 a roller, or the back of a knife. 
 
364 
 
 "REMOVES. 
 
 845. APPLE PIE.—Pare, cut, and core sufficient apples to 
 fill the dish, put a small cup in the middle or not, as you like, 
 one clove to every three apples, a pinch of pounded cinnamon, a 
 small piece of chopped lemon-peel, and sugar; bake according 
 to size. 
 
 846. RHUBARB AND APPLE, or Rhubarb and Goose¬ 
 berry, Currant and Raspberry, Cherry, Plum, Damson , Pear , 
 Quince , Mulberry, Wortleberry or TVhorts and Raspberry , Dew¬ 
 berry and Raspberry , or Cranberry, may all be made in the 
 same way, in winter. A little whipped cream may be placed in 
 the top, for a variety. 
 
 REMOVES—SECOND COURSE. 
 
 847. CHESNUT PUDDING, NESSELRODE FASHION. 
 —Blanch four dozen chesnuts in boiling water, skin and place 
 them in the screen, when dry take them out, and when cold put 
 them into a mortar, with one pound of sugar, and half a stick of 
 vanilla, pound the whole well together, and sift it through a fine 
 wire sieve, put into a stewpan, with the yolks of twelve eggs, 
 beat them well together; in another stewpan have a quart of 
 milk, when boiling pour it over the other ingredients, mixing 
 well, and stir over a sharp fire until it begins to thicken and 
 .adheres to the back of the spoon, then lay a tammy upon a large 
 dish, pour the mixture in and rub it through with two wooden 
 spoons; when cold place it in a freezing-pot and freeze as directed 
 ,(No. 772); when frozen, have a large high ice-mould, which 
 closes hermetically, have also two ounces of currants and two 
 ounces of Smyrna raisins, soaked in four glasses of marasquino 
 from the previous day, with four ounces of candied citron cut in 
 dice, put them into the freezing-pot, with a pint of whipped 
 cream and half the meringue preparation directed in No. 772; 
 freeze the whole well together and fill your mould, which bury 
 in ice and salt until ready to serve, then dip it into lukewarm 
 water, and turn it out upon your dish. 
 
 848. ICED CABINET PUDDING.—Have ready prepared, 
 and rather stale, a sponge-cake as directed (No. 931), which cut 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 36 !V 
 
 into slices half an inch thick, and rather smaller than the mould 
 vou intend making the pudding in, soak them well with nojeaii 
 brandy * then lay some preserved dry cherries at the bottom of 
 the mould, with a few whole ratafias, lay one of the slices over,, 
 then more cherries and ratafias, proceeding thus until the mould 
 is three parts full; have ready a quart of the custard (No. 8 /6), 
 omitting half the quantity of isinglass, pour it lukewarm into 
 your mould, which close hermetically, and bury m ice and salt, 
 where let it remain at least two hours; when ready to serv< ^ P 
 it in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; you ha 
 made about half a pint of custard, which keep upon ice, pour 
 over the pudding when ready to serve, and sprinkle a few 
 
 chopped pistachios over. 
 
 849 WHITE ALMOND PUDDING ICES.— Blanch and 
 skin a*quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, with six or eigh 
 bitter ones, when dry and cold, place them in a mortar, with 
 three quarters of a pound of sugar, and ten or twelve leaves of 
 candied orange-flowers, pound well, sift through a wire sieve, 
 and place it in a stewpan, with the yolks of eight eggs, heat then 
 well'ton-ether; then in another stewpan have boiling a pint and 
 a half of milk, which pour over the other ingredients by degrees, 
 keepinn i stirred, place it upon the fire, stirring until it thickens 
 andadheres to th’eW of the spoon, 
 
 add two glasses of noyeau; when cold put it into jour tieez 
 not to freeze and when half frozen add a pint and a half of 
 whipped cream; when quite frozen fill a mould, and serve as 
 pudding, Nesselrode fashion. 
 
 8 TO RICE PUDDING GLACE.—Take some ground rice, 
 and well boil it in milk till done, seasoned with lemon, sugar, 
 &c and add a little double cream whisked, and freeze it in a 
 pot" then mould it, and keep it in iee till wanted, then dip it in 
 hot water, and serve with either Macedoine sauce or any fruit 
 
 sauce. 
 
 851. FRUIT, CHARTREUSE OF, WITH 
 
 TELLY_Make a chartreuse of fruit as directed (No. .> 
 
 around or oval mould, having a quantity of fruit left; have also 
 about a quart of orange jelly, which place upon ice in a howl 
 whi°kin' r it until on the point of setting, then place a lajei o 1 
 Tn the chartreuse, then a layer of the fruit, the jelly, and so on 
 
306 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 •until quite filled, place it upon ice, and when set and ready to 
 serve, dip in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; 
 serve garnished round with jelly in the skins of the oranges, cut 
 in quarters after it has set, or leave out the garnishing. 
 
 852. SOUFFLE OF ORANGE ICED.—Prepare about 
 three parts of the quantity of ice as directed in the last, to which 
 when half frozen, add a pint and a half of whipped orange jelly 
 just upon the point of setting, beat the whole well together with 
 the spatula, working it until well frozen: have a dozen and a 
 half of oranges, peeled, quartered, and passed in sugar as directed 
 for vcl-au-vent, and place them in a basin upon ice; when ready 
 to serve, make a border of almond paste upon your dish, in the 
 centre of which put a little of the ice, then a layer of oranges, 
 then the same and oranges again, proceeding thus and finishing 
 in pyramid; garnish round with various small ripe fruits. 
 
 853. PUNCH CAKE SOUFFLE.—Break ten eggs, put 
 the whites in a copper bowl, and the yolks in a basin, with four 
 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, four of crushed ratafias, two 
 of potato flour, a little salt, and a quarter of an ounce of candied 
 orange-flowers, beat well together, whip the whites, which stir 
 in lightly with the mixture; well butter and bread-crumb the 
 interior of an oval plain mould, butter also and bread-crumb a 
 band of paper three inches broad, which tie round at the top of 
 the mould, pour in the mixture, and half an hour before ready 
 to serve, stand it in a moderate oven (it will take about the above 
 time to bake), when done turn it out upon your dish; have ready 
 a custard of three yolks of eggs, to which you have added two 
 glasses of essence of punch, pour round the cake and serve. 
 
 The above mixture may be baked in twelve small paper cases 
 and dressed in pyramid, but then they would require more sauce. 
 
 854. ICE WAFERS.—Put a little fine flour and a little 
 pounded sugar into a small basin, mix it with a little milk or 
 thin cream; beat one egg in a glass of brandy, and make it into 
 a thin batter, it is much better to stand a few hours after it is 
 mixed, and it bakes so much smoother; have a small wafer 
 mould; heat it on a clear coal or charcoal fire by turning it now 
 and then; open it, and wipe it very clean, then rub the iron 
 with a little fat bacon; put in a spoonful of the batter, and close 
 the mould, set it on the fire one minute, then turn it, and take 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 367 
 
 them carefully off, rolling them on a small stick to their usual 
 shape. 
 
 O-- WINE BISCUITS.—Put on a marble slab or clean 
 table one pound of sifted flour; mix well with it two ounces of 
 suo-ar half a teaspoonful of salt; mix it with cold mux enough 
 h make a very stiff paste, which roll very thini with a rollui 
 • n . t hem out into any neat shape you like, and bake in a 
 Cry quii o“ n; two mi,lutes is sufficient; the addition of a 
 little cayenne pepper is an improvement with the wine. 
 
 SOUFFLE. 
 
 These dishes being the last of the Dinner, require the greatest care and 
 
 taste in executing, as, hy the time they come on the table the appetites o 
 taste m execuo g, j • fid . th eye aud the palate require 
 
 those around it are supposed uo be satisnea, rue y i 
 
 io b» pleased in order to sustain the enjoyments of the table, this is a period 
 of dhmeTwhen another of the senses may be gratified by the Reduction or 
 music (and which is continually practised on the Continent), and all oug 
 
 bp of a light and inviting character. f 
 
 Pomiefly it was the custom never to give a dinner without a souffle as the 
 
 last dish or professionally speaking, remove. I do not dislike them, but icy 
 
 require the greatest care and nicety, and are rather difficult to perform in ou 
 old-fashioned kitchens, but easy in my new stove; at any ra„e mus „ 
 you the receipt. 
 
 Safi SOUFFLE OF LEMON, OR AN! OTIIER 
 FLAVOUR.—Prepare a crust or croustade of line paste ( 1 N 0 . 
 748) or water paste, by lining a raised pie-mould wi.li it, til ing 
 with bread-crumbs, and finishing the edges as tor a raised pie, 
 
 •, i it (of a very light brown colour) about an Hour in a 
 moderate^oven^when done, empty out all the bread-crumbs 
 without takin ^ it out of the mould, then tie a band of buttue 
 pfper (four inches wide) round the top, and put it by untn 
 wanted Put half a pound of butter m a stewpan, wuh v Inc 
 mix three quarters of a pound of flour without melting it, m 
 another stewpan have rather more than a quart of milk, m 
 S when boiling, put two sticks of vanilla place^ cover^po^ 
 the stewpan and let it remain until ha co , 
 
 vanilla, which can be used again, and pour the milk iipon the 
 butter and flour, stir over a sharp Are, boiling it five mmutes, 
 then stir in quickly the yolks of tea eggs, and sweeten with half 
 
368 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 a pound of sugar; when cold, and an hour and a quarter before 
 you are ready to serve, whip the whites of the ten eggs very 
 stiff, stir them in with the mixture lightly, pour it into the 
 croustade, and bake about an hour in a moderate oven, if going 
 too fast, and liable to be done before required, open the oven 
 door, as it ought to be served the moment it is done; when ready 
 to serve take it from the oven, detach the band of paper, take it 
 from the mould, dress it upon a napkin on a dish, and serve 
 immediately. 
 
 These souffles may be baked in a silver souffle-case, if pre¬ 
 ferred, they will take considerably less time in baking, but fall 
 quicker after being taken from the oven; any liqueur or spirits 
 may be introduced in souffles of this description if approved of. 
 
 This is large enough for a dinner of eighteen; a quarter of that 
 quantity will make a nice family one, baked in a plain tart-dish. 
 
 857. SOUFFLE OF ORANGE-FLOWERS.— Proceed 
 exactly as in the last, but infusing an ounce of candied orange- 
 flowers in the milk instead of the vanilla. 
 
 858. * SOUFFLE OF RICE CREAM is made by using 
 ground rice instead of the common flour, finishing the same, and 
 using any of the flavours directed in the last three. 
 
 859. SOUFFLE OF LEMON.—Proceed as directed for 
 souffle a la vanille, but infusing the rind of two lemons, free 
 from pith, in the milk instead of the vanilla. 
 
 860. OMELET SOUFFLE.—Break six eggs, place the 
 yolks in one basin and the whites in another; add to the yolks 
 three tablespoonfuls of lump sugar, half one of fecule of potato 
 or wheat flour, and ten drops of orange flower-water; beat well 
 together; whip the whites, beginning rather slowly at first, 
 increasing by degrees, until it forms a stiff froth; then add the 
 yolks, very gently beating up the whites as you add it: have 
 ready a silver or plated dish (for want of either use tin), and 
 butter it well; place the mixture on it, and put it into a hot oven; 
 look that it rises; if so, run a knife round it; sift some sugar on 
 it, place it in the oven again, and serve, when well raised, 
 immediately. 
 
 861. OMELET SOUFFLE SAUTE.—The mixture is pre¬ 
 pared precisely as the last, but the appearance and flavour 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 369 
 
 very different, being produced by the different method of cook 
 in^ them. Put an ounce of butter into a very clean omelet-pan 
 over the fire; when melted, pour in half the preparation, place it 
 over a very brisk tire a few seconds, then twist it round in the 
 pan, which give a jerk, tossing the omelet half way over, stand 
 it over the tire again, give the pan another jerk, tossing the 
 omelet again over, and turn it out upon your dish, set it in the 
 oven, and proceed the same with the remainder of the preparation, 
 which when done turn over upon the other: leave it in the oven 
 about a quarter of an hour, sprinkle sugar over, salamander and 
 serve very quickly. The butter the sourde is sauteed in gives it 
 a superior flavour to the last. 
 
 862. CREAM OMELET SOUFFLE.—Proceed as in the 
 last, deducting two of the whites of eggs; and adding a gill of 
 whipped cream, saute and serve as above. 
 
 863. SOUFFLE BISCUITS.—Put the yolks of five eggs 
 in a basin, and the whites in a copper bowl, add a pound of sugar, 
 upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon previous to 
 pounding, beat it well with the yolks of the eggs, then add a gill 
 of cream, well whipped, and five ounces of flour; stir all together 
 lightly, whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, and stir them into 
 the preparation; have ready ten small paper cases, fill each one 
 three parts full, and fifteen minutes before serving place them 
 in a moderate oven; when done shake sugar over, diess in 
 pyramid, upon a napkin, and serve. 
 
 864. SOUFFLE, or WHIPPED CREAM. —Take one 
 quart of cream, put it into a bowl, with a quarter of a pound of 
 powdered sugar, and orange-flower powder or water, and have 
 another bowl near you, over which you must place a sieve to 
 receive and dram the cream; whip the cream with a whisk, oi 
 blow it up with a bellows made on purpose, and as it rises in a 
 froth, take it off with a spoon, and place it on the sieve; con¬ 
 tinue till all is us id, then put back the drair.ings, and continue 
 until you have none left, then put it into your dish or in glasses, 
 or on a trifle, and ornament it with nonpareils, or with green 
 citron peel or angelica cut very fine and tastefully. It can like¬ 
 wise be iced. 
 
 865. COFFEE SOUFFLE CREAM.—Take about a quar¬ 
 ter of a pound of clean raw coffee, heat it in a clean sautepan on 
 the fire, so that it gets hot through, but does not burn, then put 
 
 B B 
 
370 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 it into one quart of cream, and cover it up; let it cool as quickly 
 as possible on ice, add five ounces of powdered sugar, and pro¬ 
 ceed as above. 
 
 866. VANILLA SOUFFLE CREAM. — Cut a pod of 
 vanilla small, pound it with sugar, sift it through a fine sieve, 
 and add it to your cream, or add some drops of essence of vanilla, 
 and proceed as directed above. 
 
 867. FONDUE OF PARMESAN AND GRUYERE, or 
 any other grated Cheese .—Put a quarter of a pound of butter 
 and six ounces of flour in a stewpan, mix them well together 
 (without melting the butter) with a wooden spoon, then add 
 rather more than a pint of boiling milk, stir over the fire, boil 
 twenty minutes, then add the yolks of five eggs (stir in well), 
 half a pound of grated Parmesan, and a quarter of a pound of 
 grated Gruyere cheese; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a 
 quarter ditto of pepper, and half a saltspoonful of cayenne; if too 
 thick add two or three whole eggs to give it the consistency of a 
 souffle, whip the five whites of egg firm, stir them gently into 
 the mixture, have ready a croustade prepared as for the souffle, 
 (No. 856), pour in the above mixture, and bake it in a moderate 
 oven; it will require a little longer time than the souffle, dish 
 and serve the same. 
 
 868. NEAPOLITAN FONDUE. — Prepare half of the 
 mixture as in the last, but previous to adding the whites of eggs 
 stir in a quarter of a pound of good macaroni blanched, and cut 
 into pieces an inch in length; add the whites, bake, and serve as 
 before. 
 
 869. FONDUE (simple method f).—Put two ounces of Gruyere 
 and two ounces of Parmesan cheese (grated) into a basin, (or, if 
 you have not got them, use English cheese), with a little salt, 
 pepper, and cayenne, add the yolks of six eggs, with a^quarter of 
 a pound of butter melted (mix well), whip the whites of the six 
 eggs, stir gently into the other ingredients, fill small paper cases 
 with it, bake about a quarter of an hour in a moderate oven, 
 dress upon a napkin, and serve very hot. 
 
 870. FONDUE OF STILTON CHEESE.—Put six ounces 
 of butter and half a pound of flour in a stewpan, rub well to¬ 
 gether with a wooden spoon, then add a quart of warm milk, stir 
 
SECOND COURSE. 
 
 371 
 
 over the fire a quarter of an hour, then add the yolks of eight 
 eggs, three quarters of a pound ot grated Parmesan, and half a 
 pound of Stilton cheese in small dice, season rather highly with 
 pepper, salt, and cayenne, add the white of the eggs whipped 
 very stiff, which stir in lightly; have a dozen and a half of small 
 paper cases, fill each one three parts full, place them in a moderate 
 oven, bake about twenty minutes; when done dress them upon 
 a napkin on your dish, and serve very hot. 
 
 871. CHEESE RAMIN OLE.—Put a gill of water in a 
 stewpan, to which add two ounces of Gruyere and the same 
 quantity of Parmesan cheese (grated), two ounces of butter, a 
 little cayenne pepper, and salt if required, set it upon the fire, 
 and when boiling stir in tw T o or three spoonfuls of flour; keep 
 stirring over the fire until the paste becomes dryish and the 
 bottom of the stewpan quite white, then add three or four eggs 
 by degrees, until forming a paste like No. 785, butter a baking- 
 sheet well, and lay the paste out in pieces upon it with a table¬ 
 spoon, making them long and half the size of the bowl of the 
 spoon; egg over, and lay a small piece of Gruyere cheese upon 
 each, put them into the oven about twenty minutes before, they 
 are required; bake them a little crisp, and serve very hot, dressed 
 in pyramid upon a napkin. 
 
 872. PUFF CHEESECAKE.—Make half a pound of paste 
 (No. 747), which roll very thin, have ready some grated Par¬ 
 mesan and Gruyere cheese mixed, throw half a handful over the 
 paste, which fold in three, roll it out to the same thickness again, 
 cover again with cheese, proceeding thus until you have used the 
 whole of the cheese (half a pound), then cut them into any shapes 
 you like with pastry cutters, set on a wet baking-sheet, egg them 
 over, bake a nice colour in a moderate oven, dress in pyramid 
 upon a napkin on a dish, and serve very hot. 
 
 873. CHEESE SOUFFLE, or DIABLOTINS. — Put a 
 gill of milk in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter; when boiling, 
 stir in two spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring over the fire until the 
 bottom of the stewpan is dry, then add four eggs by degrees, half 
 a pound of Gruyere, and half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese ; 
 mix well in, season with pepper, salt, and cayenne, rather highly, 
 mould the paste into little balls with the forefinger against the 
 side of the stewpan containing it, drop them into hot lard; fry 
 of a nice light brown, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve 
 
 B B 2 
 
372 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 very hot; a quarter of that quantity may of course he made. 
 This is an excellent dish. 
 
 874. TURBAN OF ALMOND CAKE ICED.—This is a 
 very good and useful second course remove. Make half a pound 
 of putf paste, give it nine rolls, rolling it the last time to the 
 thickness of a penny-piece, have ready blanched and chopped 
 a pound of sweet almonds, which put in a basin with half a 
 pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, or little 
 more if required; spread it over the paste the thickness of a 
 shilling, and with a knife cut the paste into pieces two inches 
 and a half in length and nearly one in breadth, place them upon 
 a baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very light brown colour, in a 
 moderate oven; dress them on a stiff border of any kind of stiff 
 jam or marmalade, so as to form a large crown, according to the 
 size you require it; then fill the interior with vanilla cream, or 
 any other, iced, but not too hard, and bring it up to a point; 
 the cake may be cut in any shape you fancy, but never make 
 them too large. 
 
 875. TURBAN OF PASTRY.—Observe that anv kind of 
 pastry fourree, as No. 773, or meringue, No. 772, will, if dished 
 as above, with iced cream, make a very nice remove. 
 
 876. CUSTARD FOR PUDDINGS.—Take one pint of 
 milk, to which add the yolks of two eggs, and beat up, add a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar, half a saltspoonful of powdered 
 cinnamon and nutmeg, and a bay-leaf. For mould puddings, 
 the mould should be filled first with the bread, &c., and the 
 custard added; should it be wanted alone in glasses, it must then 
 be put into a saucepan on the fire until it nearly boils, keep stir¬ 
 ring it w r ell during the time. 
 
 877. BATTER FOR FRITTERS.—Put half a pound of 
 flour into a basin, to which add half a pint of water, stir it gently 
 with a wooden spoon till it forms a smooth batter; put two 
 ounces of butter in a stewpan, which melt gently, then pour it 
 gradually into the batter, and stir it; whisk the white of two 
 eggs very firm, and mix lightly in the batter. Use where in¬ 
 dicated. 
 
873 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 LETTER No. XVII. 
 
 Ma CHEEE Eloise, —Remembering your admiration of the small dessert 
 I put on the table at my last birth-day party, you will, I am confident, feel 
 interested in the description of desserts in general, and I will give you a few 
 more hints and receipts, which will tend both to economise as well as gratify 
 the palate and sight; and very different in style from some of our visitors, 
 who, though they spend their money freely enough when they give their 
 Christmas party, still keep up the old style of covering their table with dry 
 sweet stuff, and, in the way of fruits, display oranges in their original golden 
 skin, Ribston pippins in their mournful ones, American apples with their 
 Vermillion cheeks, large winter pears in their substantial state, the whole 
 ornamented and crowned with laurel, no doubt to signify their immortality, 
 being present upon almost every table from year to year, especially tlie un¬ 
 sociable pear, which no teeth can ever injure, but, on the contrary, it may 
 injure the teeth. A very comical friend assured us, as a fact, that he had 
 met one of the before-mentioned pears in three different parties in less than 
 a week, having, for curiosity’s sake, engraved his initial with a penknife 
 upon one he was served with at the first party. “And, talk about pine¬ 
 apples,” said he, “many times I have had the pleasure of meeting with the 
 same, and even as often as twice in less than twelve hours, quite in a dif¬ 
 ferent direction, that is, on a dinner-table in the west-end about eight in the 
 evening, and, at midnight, on the supper-table of a civic ball; at dinner 
 being perched on an elevated stand in the centre of a large wide table, 
 so much out of reach that it would almost require a small ladder to get at it; 
 and I must say that every guest present paid due respect to his high position, 
 and never made an assault, or even an attempt to disturb, much less to un¬ 
 crown his fruity majesty, though, now and then, one of the fair guests, as a 
 compliment, would remark to the Amphitryon, that she never saw in her life 
 a finer pine-apple. ‘ Very fine, very fine, indeed, madam! will you allow 
 me to offer you part of an orange?’ ‘Not any more, I thank you, sir,’ 
 being the reply.” 
 
 On the supper table this aristocratic and inaccessible pine still holds its 
 kingly rank, and is still proudly perched on the top of a sideboard, surrounded 
 by Portugal or Rhenish grapes, and to prevent its dethronement by removing 
 the grapes the intelligent waiter has carefully tied it to the ornament that 
 supports it. Our friend, who is a literary gentleman, has promised to write 
 a small brochure, to be called the ‘ Memoirs of a Pineapple in London, 
 which, I am confident, will not fail of being very interesting, having had the 
 
374 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 advantage of mixing in so man}- different societies. For the last few years an 
 abundance of the natural ones from the West Indies has in some respects 
 injured the high estimation bestowed on this delicious fruit, but still a good 
 and large English pine, like the one I have mentioned above, will always 
 maintain its dignity and price. 
 
 I know, dearest, what will be your feeling after the perusal of the above, 
 that I have given vent to a little scandal; but it is the truth, and of almost 
 daily occurrence, so that there is no mystery about it. I do not mean that it 
 is very general, but is certainly often practised; for my part, you know my 
 style: I never attempt to astonish my guests with extensive wonders of 
 nature and art in any shape of eatable, but simply follow the middle prices 
 by which I always can procure the best quality of article in comestibles; 
 and nothing pleases me more when I give a party than that every dish on 
 the table should be partaken of, and still more so when entirely eaten. I do 
 not approve of meanness; though a great economist, I abhor it as much as I 
 do extravagance; and we never, I assure you, give a single party without 
 being perfectly satisfied that it does not interfere with our daily comforts, 
 that is, as regards financial matters. For dessert in summer I confine it 
 entirely to fresh fruit, compotes, ices, and a few almond cakes, and Savoy 
 biscuits. Fruits, preserves, oranges, compotes, and biscuits in winter. 
 
 The list of names I here inclose to you consists of moderately-priced articles, 
 and will enable you to make a good appearance for your dessert, and at a 
 trifling expense. 
 
 The first thing I wish you to be initiated in is, what is called in France 
 ‘ compote, ’ which may be made almost from any kind of fruits, especially 
 apples, pears, apricots, plums, greengages, peaches, cherries, gooseberry, 
 oranges, &c. It was on my second visit to Havre that I took lessons in con¬ 
 fectionery; I paid as much as ten shillings per lesson to M. Bombe Glace, 
 that being the ‘ nom de guerre’ of the first confectioner there; but you 
 know, dearest, how quick I am at learning, especially anything in the way 
 of cookery. I really must say I do love cooking, so you may fancy that the 
 clever artist, Monsieur le Confiseur, had not very many of our demi-souvereign, 
 as he called them, from us; my Mr. B. thought at the time that it was quite 
 ridiculous and extravagant to pay so much for a trifle like that; but let me 
 tell you, dear, he had not then tasted them; but now all the wall and tree- 
 fruits from our garden, if I were to follow entirely his taste, would be con¬ 
 verted into compote, he being so remarkably fond of it. 
 
 Compote. 
 
 Procure a very clean tin stewpan or a small sugar-pan, like M Bombe Glace 
 used; it is also from him that I bought mine, which I showed you when you 
 were here; it being more preferable for boiling sugar, why I cannot tell, 
 never having asked the reason, being so anxious to know other things which 
 
DESSERT* 
 
 375 
 
 T thought more serviceable ; but there must be some cause for him to have 
 Led it so continually, as he is such a very clean and precise man m all his 
 . v + n the making of a sugar stick. Since, I have tued it 
 
 “T'common stewpan, whicli haf answered very well; and knowing by ex 
 Lt vouLculinarv laboratory is still in its innocent infancy, you 
 St be ^veZ from Iking an immediate experiment by waiting till you 
 lid let one so you may use that three-pint size stewpan, which I lent you 
 for a pattern about three weeks ago, and after which I shall feel extreme^ 
 gratified by its reappearance on my kitchen shell at No. 5, being ou o 
 s; of the row, for every time I enter my kitchen it puts me in mind of 
 
 v ryrettv woman minus one of her front teeth. 
 
 Se me if I claim it of you, but I wish to teach you punctuality as well 
 
 as economy. 
 
 878 COMPOTE OF WINTER PE ARS, like the one our 
 comical friend had.-Toput an end toils long and hard existence 
 T would cut it into six or eight pieces leng hwise, peel anil cut 
 out the cores, giving them a nice shape; then ‘ 0 f wine* 
 
 rs Sr 1 ;™.? :s :—: «a «{.>j * 
 
 = ; in™ss-f"Sirff 
 
 Sue, it »«" ““ ,1< V ““ ” dj ' " • 
 
 'Til... prepaid 
 
 improves their appearance. A dn p niacins: a 
 
 half of the white has a very pretty t Kh “you 
 
 layer of marmalade among them, at tne bottom j 
 
 may dish them in crown, or any shape you like. 
 
 870 COMPOTE OF PEACHES.—Put half a pound of 
 
 luml suuar (broken into small pieces) into a stewpan with a 
 lump s>v i oet uoon the fire to boil until 
 
 quarter of pin o w ^ viously c ut four ripe peaches 
 
 forming a thickm -y p» boilino- syrup to simmer a 
 
 in halves, lay them carefully nthe bo g 7 V colander . 
 
 couple of minutes, Lins, and dress 
 
 spoon on to a hair sieve to chain, remove > 
 
 the peaches neatly upon your "Land they 
 
 until of a good consistency, and when cold pour it over, aim y 
 
 are ready to serve. 
 
 880 COMPOTE OF APPLES.— Procure six nice ripe 
 apples, but not too large, which peel, cut in halves, an cu ou 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 b76 
 
 the cores, rub each piece over with a little lemon, and put them 
 into boiling syrup made as last directed, but w 7 ith the juice of a 
 lemon, and the rind cut into small fillets added; let the apple 
 stew until tender, but not broken, drain them upon a sieve, 
 reduce the syrup; and when both are cold, dress the apple 
 neatly upon your dish, and pour the syrup over. A little green 
 angelique, cut in various shapes, will make a pretty ornament 
 on any white compote. 
 
 881. COMPOTE OF SMALL APPLES, SERVED 
 WHOLE.—Select nine small golden pippins, each as nearly as 
 possible of an equal size, and with a long round vegetable cutter, 
 of the size of a sixpenny piece, cut out the cores, then peel them 
 very thin and smooth, rub their surface with lemon juice, and 
 throw them into a basin of spring water; have ready boiling 
 half a pint of syrup, made as before directed; to which add the 
 rind of a lemon (cut into thin strips), and the juice; lay in the 
 apples, which let simmer very gently until quite tender, drain 
 them upon a hair sieve, and reduce the syrup until thickish; 
 when quite cold, dress the apples upon your dish, five at the 
 bottom, three upon them, and one upon the top; when ready to 
 serve, pour the syrup over. 
 
 882. COMPOTE OF GREEN APRICOTS.—Have a 
 pottle of green apricdts, from which pick off all the stalks, and 
 throw them into a stewpan containing a quart of boiling water, 
 and let them boil very fast for ten minutes, and drain them upon 
 a sieve; have ready half a pint of syrup made as before directed, 
 in which boil them until tender, but not to break, and thicken 
 the syrup, pour the whole into a basin until quite cold; should 
 the syrup then be too thin, strain it off into the stewpan to re¬ 
 duce to a proper consistency, pouring it again over the apricots 
 when quite cold. Dish tastefully. 
 
 883. COMPOTE OF GREENGAGES.—Procure twelve 
 greengages, not quite ripe, each of which cut into halves, take 
 out the stones, have ready boiling half a pint of syrup, as before 
 directed, into which put half the fruit, let it simmer a couple of 
 minutes, then remove them with a colander-spoon, draining 
 them upon a sieve; then put in the remainder, with which pro¬ 
 ceed in the same manner; remove the skins, put the fruit into 
 a basin, reduce the syrup until thickish, and when cold, pour it 
 over the fruit, which is then ready to serve. 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 377 
 
 Any description of plums may be dressed in precisely the 
 same method. 
 
 884. COMPOTE OF APRICOTS.—Procure six very fine 
 ripe apricots, which divide into halves; take out the stones, 
 have ready half a pint of boiling syrup reduced quite thick, m 
 which let them simmer about a minute, when pour the whole 
 into a basin until cold; should the fruit not be quite ripe, they 
 would require longer time to simmer. I frequently break the 
 stones and blanch the kernels to add to the compote; they are 
 a great improvement, also, to cherries and plums. 
 
 885. COMPOTE OF CHERRIES.—Take a pound of fine 
 cherries, not too ripe, and cut away half the stalks with a pair 
 of scissors; have half a pint of syrup, which boil until very 
 thick, when add half of the cherries, and boil them two or three 
 minutes, take them out with a colander-spoon, drain them upon 
 a sieve, and proceed the same with the remaining half; reduce 
 the syrup until very thick, dress the cherries pyramidically upon 
 your dish, stalks uppermost, and when the syrup is cold, pour it 
 
 over, and serve. 
 
 886. COMPOTE OF ORANGES.—Make a pint of syrup 
 as before; have six fine oranges, which skin carefully,, scraping 
 off as much of the pith as possible; divide each orange into eight 
 entire pieces, without breaking the delicate skm with which 
 they are divided; when the syrup is very thick, put in the pieces 
 of oranges, which simmer gently for five minutes, take them out 
 with a colander-spoon, and drain them upon a sieve; reduce the 
 syrup very quickly until thickish, and when cold, pour it over 
 the oranges, which will be then ready to serve. Half the rind 
 of the oranges, free from pith, cut into small fillets, are a great 
 improvement boiled in the syrup. 
 
 887. COMPOTE OF FRENCH PLUMS.—Put half a 
 pound*of French plums into a stewpan, with a gill of water, the 
 same of wine, the rind of half a lemon cut thin, two cloves, and 
 a good spoonful of sugar, let them simmer about twenty minutes, 
 and when cold take out the lemon and cloves, and they are ready 
 
 to serve. 
 
878 
 
 DESSERT 
 
 COMPOTES OF FRUIT SIMPLIFIED. 
 
 As I visually make them when alone, or for a very homely dinner-party. 
 The whole of the following must be done over a very slow fire. 
 
 888. PEARS.—Cut six ripe middling-sized pears in halves, 
 peel neatly, cut out the cores, and put them into a stewpan, with 
 a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the juice of a lemon, 
 the thin rind cut into strips, and a very little drop of water; set 
 them upon the fire, stewing them until tender; they will form 
 their own syrup; put them in a basin until cold, when they are 
 ready to serve. 
 
 889. RIBSTON PIPPINS.—Peel and cut four apples into 
 quarters, take out the cores, and stew them as directed for pears, 
 but using the rind of an orange instead of the rind of a lemon. 
 
 890. ORANGES.—Prepare four oranges as directed (No. 
 886), which put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of 
 powdered sugar, and the juice of another orange; set them upon 
 the fire, and when the syrup becomes sufficiently thick to adhere 
 to the pieces of orange, they are done; when cold, dress them in 
 a circle upon your dish, with strips of angelica between each. 
 
 891. APRICOTS.—Cut eight unripe apricots into quarters, 
 which put into a stewpan, with four ounces of sugar, the juice 
 of a lemon, and a drop of sherry, set them upon the fire, shaking 
 the stewpan round occasionally, until the apricots are tender, 
 but not broken; a very few minutes would be sufficient to stew 
 them, and when cold, they are ready to serve. 
 
 For Peaches, proceed exactly the same; but if too ripe, they 
 must be done as directed for compote of peaches. 
 
 892. GREENGAGES AND OTHER PLUMS.—Put 
 twelve into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of sugar, the 
 juice of a lemon and a little drop of water, set them over the fire, 
 shaking the stewpan round occasionally until the fruit is tender, 
 but not mashed; when cold, dress them in pyramid, and pout* 
 the syrup over. 
 
 893. CHERRIES.—Cut the stalks of a pound of Kentish 
 cherries rather short, and put the fruit into a stewpan, with a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar and the juice of a lemon; place 
 
DESSERT 
 
 379 
 
 them over the fire (occasionally shaking the pan round), letting 
 them simmer about two minutes, when take them out with a 
 colander-spoon, and put them into a basin until cold, reduce 
 the syrup, to which add sufficient isinglass to set it as a jelly, 
 and pour it upon a large plate until set, when dress the cnernes 
 pyramidically, just dip the bottom of the plate containing the 
 syrup into warm water, and turn it as a jelly over the cherries. 
 
 894. GREEN GOOSEBERRIES.—Put a pint of green 
 gooseberries into a stewpan with two ounces of sugar and a htUe 
 sherry, place them over a sharp fire, as the quickei t ley - 
 the better colour they will keep; when tender but not broken, 
 pour them into a basin, and when cold they are ready to seive. 
 
 895. RED RHUBARB.—The small forced rhubarb (Mit¬ 
 chell’s Royal Albert) is by far the best. Cut about half a pound 
 of it into pieces half an inch in length, which put into a stewpan 
 with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a wmeglassfu 
 of water; set it over a sharp fire, occasionally shaking the stew ¬ 
 pan round, and when quite tender pour it into a basin until cold 
 when it is ready to serve, should the syrup be too thin, add 
 sufficient isinglass to set it, and when cold dress it pyramidical y 
 
 upon your dish. 
 
 896. CURRANTS AND RASPBERRIES.—Pick the 
 stalks from a pint of currants, which put into a s ^wpaB ™ 
 half a pint of raspberries and a quarter of a pound oi powdered 
 sugar; set them upon the fire, shaking the stewpan round occa¬ 
 sionally until boiling, when pour them into a basin to cool. 
 Should the syrup be too thin, which would be the case if t le 
 fruit is too ripe, drain the fruit from it, reduce it by boiling, an 
 when cold, pour it again over the fruit, which will be then ready 
 
 to serve. 
 
 897. ROYAL ICEING FOR CAKES.—Have ready a 
 pound of the best white sugar, which pound well and sift througl 
 a silk sieve, put it into a basin with the whites of three e s, 
 beat well together with a wooden spoon, adding the juice of la 
 a lemon, keep beating well until it becomes very hgh.and 
 hangs in flakes from the spoon (if it should be rather too stiff in 
 mixing add a little more white of egg, if, on the conti aiy, too 
 soft, a little more sugar), it is then ready for use where required 
 
380 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 898. CHOCOLATE ICEING FOR CAKES is made 
 similar to the last, but when finished have ready a piece of the 
 common chocolate, which melt in a stewpan over the fire, keep¬ 
 ing it stirred; when quite melted stir some of it in with the 
 iceing until you have obtained the colour required, moistening 
 the iceing with a little more white of egg, and use where directed. 
 
 899. SUGAR IN GRAINS is made by pounding a quantity 
 of sugar in a mortar, and sifting off all the fine through a hair 
 sieve, then again what remains in the sieve put into a rather 
 coarse wire sieve, and that which passes through is what is meant 
 by the above term. 
 
 900. HOW TO GIVE COLOUR TO SUGAR.—Prepare 
 about half a pound of the sugar as in the last, which put upon a 
 baking-sheet; have a spoonful of the essence of spinach, which 
 stir in with the sugar until every grain is strained, then put them 
 in a warmish place to dry, but not too hot: to colour them red, 
 use a little prepared cochineal or liquid carmine, instead of the 
 spinach, and proceed exactly the same : sugar may be mode of 
 other colours by the use of indigo, rouge, saffron, &c.; but not 
 being partial to such a variety of colouring, I have merely given 
 the red and the green, which, with the white, I consider to be 
 sufficient for any of the purposes for which they are used. 
 
 901. SUGAR OF VANILLA.—Chop a stick of well-frosted 
 vanilla very small, and put it into a mortar, with half a pound 
 of lump sugar, pound the wdiole well together in a mortar, sift 
 through a hair sieve, and put by in a bottle or jar, corking it up 
 tight, and using where required. 
 
 902. SUGAR OF LEMON.—Rub the rind of some fresh 
 lemons upon a large piece of sugar, and as it discolours the part 
 upon which it is rubbed scrape it off with a knife; when you 
 have obtained a sufficient quantity, dry a little in the screen, 
 and bottle for use where required. Orange sugar may be made 
 in the same manner, substituting very red oranges for the lemons. 
 
 903. HOW TO MAKE CLEAR SUGAR.—Break three 
 pounds of fine white sugar, the hardest and closest grained is the 
 best, put it into a sugar-pan, with three pints of clear. spring 
 water, set over a sharp fire, and when beginning to boil place it 
 at the corner to simmer, and squeeze in the juice of half a 
 lemon, skim well and reduce to two thirds, it is then ready to- 
 use for jellies. 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 381 
 
 If not able to obtain the best quality of sugar, it would be ne¬ 
 cessary to use white of eggs as an assistance in the clarification, 
 by putting the white of one egg in a basin and whipping it well 
 with a pint of cold water; add half of it to the sugar, whipping 
 it well in, let simmer, adding the remainder by degrees whilst 
 simmering, and passing it through a fine cloth into a basin. I he 
 boiling of sugar is divided into seven different degrees, which 
 may be ascertained by the following directions:— 
 
 The first degree is known by dipping a copper skimmer into 
 it whilst boiling, turning it over two or three times; if the sugar 
 falls from it in sheets it has attained the first degree. 
 
 The second is known by boiling your sugar rather longer, 
 dipping your finger and thumb into cold water, then your finger 
 into the boiling sugar, putting your finger and thumb together, 
 and again opening them, it will form a kind of thread; if it is 
 too weak boil a little longer; this is the most useful degree for 
 fruit or water ices. 
 
 The third degree is attained by boiling it a little longer, and 
 trying it in the same manner; upon the thread breaking, should 
 it form a kind of pearl, it has attained the above degree; the 
 sugar in boiling would also be covered with a quantity of small 
 bubbles resembling pearls. 
 
 The fourth degree is attained by boiling it still longer; dip a 
 skimmer into it, turn, take out, and blow it hard, when the sugar 
 will form little bladders and float in the air; this degree is called 
 the souffle. 
 
 For the fifth degree boil still longer, trying it in the same 
 manner, but blowing harder; the bladders will be larger and 
 adhere together, forming feathers; this degree is called la plume, 
 or the feather. 
 
 The sixth is called le petit casee, and is obtained by boiling 
 the sugar a little longer: to know this degree, have a pint of cold 
 water °in a basin, into which you have put a piece of ice, dip 
 your finger into it, then into the boiling sugar, and then into the 
 water again, take the piece which adheres to the finger and bite, 
 if rather crisp, but sticking to the teeth, it has attained that 
 
 degree. . # . . 
 
 The seventh and last requires great attention: to attain it, boil 
 rather longer, dip your finger in as before, if it cracks and does 
 not at all adhere to the teeth in biting, it is done, take from the 
 fire, and it is ready for use for making any kind of sugar orna¬ 
 ment. 
 
882 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 When intended for such purposes, however, add a little tartaric 
 acid when it arrives to the degree la plume, and pour it into a 
 smaller sugar-pan, allowing it to reach the rims, it will be then 
 unable to burn round the sides as if in a larger pan; if such a 
 thing should, however, happen in a larger pan, wipe the interior 
 of the pan round with a sponge previously dipped in cold water, 
 or it would discolour the sugar. 
 
 Ornaments of spun sugar I have a very great dislike to for a 
 dinner; but, if required, the sugar must be boiled to the last 
 degree. Should the sugar grain, it may be brought back by* 
 adding more water, and when dissolved, boiling over again; in 
 spinning sugar you must keep the bulk of it in a warm tempe¬ 
 rature, having a little in a smaller pan for use, which keep in a 
 melted state, by placing it in a bain-marie of hot water, or in a 
 hot closet. 
 
 904. SILK THREAD, or SPUN SUGAR. — Having 
 boiled your sugar to the seventh degree, as in the last, oil the 
 handle of a wooden spoon, tie two forks together, the prongs 
 turned outwards, dip them lightly into the sugar, take out and 
 shake them to and fro, the sugar running from them over the 
 spoon forming fine silken threads, proceeding thus until you 
 have as much as you require, take it from the spoon and form it 
 with your hands into whatever may be directed for the garnish¬ 
 ing of any dish, not, however, too thick, or it would look heavy. 
 An experienced hand would prefer doing it from the lip of the 
 sugar-pan. 
 
 Other kinds of ornaments from sugar are made in a similar 
 manner by oiling a mould or shape and running threads of the 
 sugar from the lip of the pan over it as tastefully as possible, but 
 as I have not referred to it in this work I will not enter into its 
 details. These are more fit for suppers than dinners. 
 
 905. VANILLA ICE CREAM.—Put the yolks of twelve 
 eggs in a stewpan, with half a pound of sugar, beat well together 
 with a wooden spoon, in another stewpan have a quart of milk, 
 and when boiling throw in two sticks of vanilla, draw it from 
 the fire, place on the lid, and let remain until partly cold, pour 
 it over the eggs and sugar in the other stewpan, mix well, and 
 place it over the fire (keeping it stirred) until it thickens and 
 adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy 
 into a basin, let remain until cold, then have ready a pewter 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 383 
 
 freezing-pot in an ice-pail well surrounded with ice and. salt;* 
 put the above preparation into it, place on the lid, which must 
 fit rather tightly, and commence twisting the pot round sharply, 
 keeping it turned for about ten minutes, when take off the lid, 
 and with your spatula clear the sides of the interior of the pot, 
 place the lid on again, turn the pot ten minutes longer, when 
 again clear the sides and beat the whole well togethei until 
 smooth, it being then about half frozen, then add four glasses of 
 noyeau or marasquino and a pint and a half of cream well 
 whipped, beat the whole well together, place the lid upon the 
 top, keep twisting it round a quarter of an hour, clear well from 
 the sides, beat again well together, proceeding thus until the 
 whole is frozen into a stiff but smooth and mellow substance; 
 should you require to keep it some time before serving, pour the 
 water which has run from the ice out of the pail, and add fresh 
 ice and salt; when ready to serve work it up smoothly with 
 your spatula, fill the mould, and proceed as No. 84 /. 
 
 906. COFFEE ICE CREAM.—Proceed exactly as in the 
 last, but omitting the noyeau or marasquino, and making an 
 infusion with coffee as directed (No. 43) instead of vanilla. 
 
 907. ICE OF CHOCOLATE is made similar to the vanilla 
 ice-cream, but omitting the vanilla and liqueur, in the room of 
 which scrape a quarter of a pound of chocolate, place it in a 
 stewpan over the fire, and keep stirring until melted, then have 
 ready boiling a quart of milk, which mix with the chocolate by 
 degrees, finish with eggs and sugar, and freeze as before. 
 
 908. ICE OF PINEAPPLE.—Procure a rather small pine¬ 
 apple, take off the rind, which reserve, and cut the apple into 
 pieces an inch in length and about the thickness of a quill, place 
 them in a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint 
 of water, set it upon the fire and reduce to a rather thickisli 
 syrup, have ready a pint and a half of milk upon the fire, into 
 which, when boiling, throw the rind of the pineapple, cover it 
 
 * To freeze quickly any description of ice, the freezing-pot must be well 
 set; place it in the centre, of the pail, which must be large enough to give a 
 space of four inches all round, break up small twelve pounds ot ice, which 
 put round at the bottom six inches in depth, over which put two pounds ot 
 salt, beat down tight with a rolling-pin, then more ice then salt, proceeding 
 thus until within three inches of the top of your freezing-pot; saltpetie 
 mixed with the salt will facilitate it in freezing. 
 
384 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 over and let infuse ten minutes; in another stewpan have the 
 yolks of twelve eggs, to which add the milk by degrees (pre¬ 
 viously straining it), place over the fire, keeping it stirred until 
 adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy 
 into a basin, add the syrup and pineapple, and freeze it as in the 
 last, adding a pint and a half of whipped cream; when half 
 frozen, use where directed. 
 
 909. LEMON ICE CREAM.—Take the rind from six 
 lemons as thin as possible and free from pith, squeeze the juice 
 of the lemons into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and 
 half a pint of water, place it upon the fire and reduce until 
 rather a thickish syrup, have a pint and a half of milk upon the 
 fire, into which, when boiling, throw the rind of the lemons, 
 cover over and let remain until half cold; in another stewpan 
 have the yolks of twelve eggs (to which you have added an 
 ounce of sugar), with which mix the milk by degrees, and stir 
 over the fire till it adheres to the back of the spoon, w r hen stir in 
 the syrup and pass it through a tammy; when cold, freeze as 
 directed (No. 905) adding a pint of whipped cream when half 
 frozen. 
 
 910. ORANGE ICE CREAM.—Proceed precisely as in 
 the last, but using the juice and rind of ten oranges instead of 
 
 lemons as there directed. 
 
 % 
 
 911. APRICOT ICE CREAM.—Procure a dozen and a 
 half of fine ripe apricots, which cut in halves, take out the stones, 
 which break, extracting the kernels, which blanch in veiy hot 
 water, and skin, then put them with the apricots into a sugar- 
 pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a glassful of water, let 
 them boil until almost forming a marmalade, when put them by 
 in a basin; have the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan, with 
 which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, set over the 
 fire, keeping it stirred until thick enough to adhere to the back 
 of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a basin, add 
 the syrup and apricots, and, when cold, three glasses of noyeau, 
 freeze as in No. 905, and, when half frozen, add a pint of good 
 whipped cream. 
 
 912. STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM.—Procure about two 
 pounds of fine ripe strawberries, which, pick and rub through a 
 hair sieve with a wooden spoon, obtaining all the juice and pulp 
 of the strawberries, with which mix half a pound of powdered 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 *. 
 
 385 
 
 suo-ar, and put it by in a basin; in a stewpan have the yolks of 
 twelve eggs, with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, 
 stir over the fire until it becomes thickish, adhering to the back 
 of the spoon, pass it through a tammy, and when cold add the 
 iuice from the strawberries, and three glasses of maraschino; 
 freeze it as directed (No. 905), adding a pint of whipped cream 
 when half frozen and sufficiently prepared; cochineal, to give it 
 a strawberry colour, if approved of. 
 
 913. MARMALADE OF APPLE.—Peel and cut thirty 
 apples in slices, taking out the cores, and, if for preserving, to 
 every pound of fruit put three-quarters of a pound of broket 
 su"ar (but if for immediate use, half a pound would be quiti 
 sufficient), place the whole in a large preserving-pan, with half 
 a spoonful of powdered cinnamon and the rind of a lemon chopped 
 very fine, set the pan over a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally 
 until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming rather thi ck; it 
 is then done: if for immediate use, a smaller quantity would be 
 sufficient, which put by in a basin until cold; but if to keep any 
 time, put it in jars, which cover over with paper, and tie down 
 
 until wanted. 
 
 914. MARMALADE OF APRICOTS.—Stone about eight 
 pounds of ripe fleshy apricots, break the stones, and blanch and 
 skin the kernels, which with the apricots put into a preseiving- 
 pan, add six pounds of sugar and place it over a sharp fire, 
 stirring occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring unti be¬ 
 coming rather thick, take it off, put it in jars, and when cold tie 
 paper^over, and put by until ready for use. 
 
 915 QUINCE JAM PUREE.— Procure a sieve of fine 
 ripe quinces, which peel and cut in four, taking out the cores, 
 place them in a large preserving-pan and cover with cold water; 
 set upon the fire, and when boiling and tender to the touch 
 place them in a large sieve to drain one hour, pass them through 
 a tammy, then have ready a corresponding weight of sugar boiled 
 to the sixth degree (No. 903) in the preserving-pan to which 
 add the puree of quinces, keep stirring over the fire till forming 
 thin sheets, drop a little upon the cover of a stewpan, it it sets 
 quickly take it from the fire, put it in small jars, and let remain 
 a day until quite cold, when tie them down, and put y un 1 
 wanted. 
 
 916. APRICOT MARMALADE JAM.—Procure a quan- 
 
 c « 
 
886 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 tity of very ripe apricots, each of which cut into four cr six 
 pieces, break the stones and blanch the kernels, put the apricots 
 in a preserving-pan with a small quantity of water, boil them 
 until quite tender, when pass them through a sieve; to every 
 pound of fruit have three-quarters of a pound of sugar (in a 
 preserving-pan) boiled to the sixth degree (No. 903), add the 
 apricots with their kernels, and keep stirring over the fire until 
 forming thin transparent sheets, try when done as in the last, 
 and put away in pots. The marmalade would be still more 
 transparent if you were to peel the apricots first, but then you 
 would lose some of their delicious flavour. 
 
 917. MARMALADE OF CHERRIES.—Procure a sieve 
 of bright Kentish cherries, pull out the stalks and stones, and 
 put the fruit in a preserving-pan, place over the fire, keeping it 
 stirred until reduced to two-thirds; have in another preserving- 
 pan, to every pound of fruit, half a pound of sugar boiled to the 
 sixth degree (No. 903), into which pour the fruit when boiling 
 hot, let reduce, keep stirring until you can just see the bottom of 
 the pan, when take it from the fire, and fill your jars as before. 
 
 A plainer way is to take off the stalks, and stone the fruit, place 
 them in a pan over a sharp fire, and to every pound of fruit add 
 nearly a pound of sugar, keep stirring until reduced as above, 
 and let it get partly cold in the pan before filling the jars. 
 
 918. STRAWBERRY JAM.—Pick twelve pounds of very 
 red ripe strawberries, which put into a preserving-pan, with ten 
 pounds of sugar (broken into smallish pieces), place over a 
 sharp fire, keep continually stirring, boiling it until the surface 
 is covered with clearish bubbles; try a little upon a cover; if it 
 sets, fill the jars as before. 
 
 919. RASPBERRY JAM.—Pick twelve pounds of rasp¬ 
 berries, and pass them through a fine sieve to extract the seeds, 
 boil as many pounds of sugar as you had pounds of fruit to the 
 sixth degree (No. 903), when add the pulp of the fruit, keep 
 stirring over the fire, reducing it until you can just see the 
 bottom of the pan, take it from the fire, and put it into jars as 
 before. 
 
 920. JELLY OF APPLE.—Cut six dozen of sound rennet 
 apples in quarters, take out all the pips, put them into a sugar- 
 pan, just cover them with cold water, and place over the fire, let 
 boil until the apples become quite pulpy, when drain them upon 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 387 
 
 a sieve, catching the liquor in a basin, which afterwards pass 
 through a new and very clean jelly-bag; to every pint of liquor 
 have one pound of sugar, which boil to the sixth degree as 
 directed (No. 903); when, whilst hot, mix in the liquor from the 
 apple with a very clean skimmer; to prevent it boiling over keep 
 it skimmed, lift the skimmer occasionally from the pan, and when 
 the jelly falls from it in thin sheets, take it up and fill the pots 
 as before; the smaller pots are the best adapted for jellies. 
 
 921. JELLY OF QUINCE.—Proceed exactly as directed 
 in the last, but using quinces instead of apples. 
 
 922. SWEETMEAT OF CURRANT JELLY.—Put half 
 a sieve of fine red currants in a large stewpan, with a gallon of 
 white currants, and a gallon of raspberries, add a quart of water, 
 place over the fire, keep stirring, to prevent them sticking to 
 the bottom, and let boil about ten minutes, pour them into a 
 sieve to drain, catching the juice in a basin and draining the 
 currants quite dry, pass the juice whilst hot through a clean 
 jelly-bag, have a pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and 
 proceed precisely as directed for apple jelly. Should you have 
 time to pick the currants from the stalks previous to boiling, 
 you would lose that bitter flavour, and have less difficulty in 
 making your jelly clear. 
 
 923. CURRANT JELLY is made precisely as in the last, 
 omitting the raspberries, the difference being in the use; the last 
 being adapted for the garnishing of pastry, and this to use for 
 sauces, or to serve with hares, venison, or any other meat, where 
 required. 
 
 A more simple method of making currant jelly is to rub the 
 fruit through a sieve, and afterwards squeeze it through .a fine 
 linen cloth, put it into a preserving-pan with, to every pint of 
 juice, three-quarters of a pound of white sugar; place over a 
 sharp fire, stirring occasionally with a skimmer, keeping it well 
 skimmed; it is done when dropping in sheets as before from the 
 skimmer. For my own part, I prefer this last simple method, 
 being quicker done, and retaining more of the full freshness of 
 the fruit. 
 
 It is not my intention to give a description of the various methods of pre¬ 
 serving fruits, which belong to the confectionery department; that I shall 
 do in the Letters from the Farm ; I have, however, given the few foregoing 
 receipts, they being required for reference from various parts of our work, 
 
 c c 2 
 
8S8 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 and being all that are required for the garnishing of dishes for the second 
 course , many other fruits may, however, be made into marmalades and 
 jellies by following these few simple directions. 
 
 SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS. 
 
 You will perceive, my dear Eloise, that there is no end to the variation of 
 dishing fruits for desserts ; I send the following as being more simple than 
 any, and within the reach of almost every individual. 
 
 924. SALAD OF ORANGES.—Select four good oranges, 
 the thinnest rind ones are preferable; cut them crosswise into 
 slices double the thickness of a crown-piece, dress them round 
 upon your dish, one piece resting half-way upon the other, shake 
 one ounce of sifted sugar over, pour over a good tablespoonful of 
 brandy, and it is ready; to serve it out, put two pieces upon the 
 plate of each guest, with a spoonful of the syrup. Slices of red 
 Malta oranges, dressed alternately with the other, have a pleasing 
 effect. Any kind of liquor may be used, as also might whisky, 
 rum, or that white cream or blue devil commonly called g—; 
 dear me, I quite forget the name!. 
 
 925. SALAD OF STRAWBERRIES.—Pick the stalks 
 from a pottle of very fine strawberries, which put into a basin 
 with half a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, two glasses of 
 brandy, and an ounce of sifted sugar, toss them lightly over, and 
 dress them in pyramid upon your dish, pouring the syrup over; 
 these should only be dressed a few minutes before serving; the 
 brandy might be omitted. If handy, a glass of maraschino, 
 substituted for brandy, makes them delicious. The small wild 
 strawberry is the best for this dish- 
 
 926. SALAD OF PEACHES.—Procure four ripe peaches, 
 which peel and cut into quarters; put them into a basin with 
 two ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry, toss them lightly 
 over, dress upon your dish, and serve. Apricots, greengages, 
 and other plums, are dressed in salads in the same manner, 
 leaving their skins on. 
 
 927. SALAD OF CURRANTS AND RASPBERRIES. 
 —Put an equal quantity of each, making rather more than a 
 pint, into a basin, with two ounces of powdered sugar-candy, 
 and a little powdered cinnamon, toss them over lightly, and they 
 are ready to serve. 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 389 
 
 928. PINE APPLES.—I have tried several experiments 
 with the West Indian pine apples, many of which being rather 
 stale when they arrive here, would make an unsightly appearance 
 whole upon the table, but made into a compote or salad, they are 
 really very excellent, having also the advantage of being very 
 cheap. 
 
 For a compote , peel one rather thickly, to leave no black spots 
 upon it, make a syrup with half a pound of sugar, as directed 
 (No. 903), cut your pine apple into round slices a quarter of an 
 inch in thickness, which put into the syrup, boiling them ten 
 minutes; take them out with a colander-spoon, reduce the syrup 
 until thickish, and pour it over the pine-apple; when cold it is 
 ready to serve. 
 
 For a salad , peel and cut a pine-apple into small square dice, 
 which put into a basin with two ounces of sugar-candy (pow¬ 
 dered) and a glass of noyeau, toss all well together and serve. 
 
 For marmalade , pare and cut into small pieces several small 
 pine-apples, and to every quart thus cut up add one pound of 
 fine sugar, boil for half an hour, and put in a pot. 
 
 CAKES. 
 
 929. CAKE OF SAYOY IN MOULD.—Have ready a 
 large high mould lightly buttered (with a soft brush, and clarified 
 butter), turn tfie mould up to drain, and when the butter is quite 
 set throw some finely-sifted sugar into it; move the mould round 
 until the sugar has adhered to every part, after which turn out 
 the superfluous sugar, tie a band of buttered paper round at the 
 top, and place it in a cool place until the mixture is ready. 
 Place the yolks of fourteen eggs in a basin, with one pound of 
 sugar (upon which you have rubbed the rind of two lemons pre¬ 
 vious to pounding), beat well together with a wooden spoon until 
 nearly white, then whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, add 
 them to the yolks and sugar, with six ounces of flour and six 
 ounces of potato-flour; mix the whole lightly, but well together, 
 and fill the mould rather more than three parts full, place it in a 
 very moderate oven one hour, keeping the oven-door shut; then 
 try when done, as directed in No. 931; if done, take off the paper, 
 and turn it out upon a sieve until quite cold. The above mix¬ 
 ture, being more delicate than No. 931, would not do so well for 
 
890 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 removes, but may be used for that purpose by being made three 
 or four days before it is required. 
 
 930. SAVOY CAKES, OR LADIES’ FINGERS.—Have 
 the weight of nine eggs of sugar in a bowl, which put into a 
 bain-marie of hot water, weigh the same weight of flour, which 
 sift through a wire sieve upon paper, break the eggs into a bowl, 
 and proceed as directed for sponge-cake; then with a paper 
 funnel or bag, with a tin pipe made for that purpose, lay it out 
 upon papers into biscuits three inches in length and the thickness 
 of your little finger, sift sugar over, shaking olf all that does not 
 adhere to them; place them upon baking-sheets, and bake in 
 rather a warm oven of a brownish-yellow colour, when done and 
 cold, detach them from the paper by wetting it at the back, place 
 them a short time to dry, and they are ready for use for charlotte 
 russe, or wherever directed. 
 
 931. SPONGE CAKE.—Put one pound of powdered sugar 
 in a good-sized bowl, which stand in a bain-marie of hot water;, 
 sift one pound of flour upon a sheet of paper, then break twelve 
 eggs into the bowl with the sugar, which whisk rather quickly 
 until they become a little warm and rather thickish, then take 
 the bowl from the bain-marie, and continue whisking until 
 nearly or quite cold; then add the chopped rind of a lemon and 
 the flour, which mix lightly with a wooden spoon; have ready 
 your mould or baking-dish lightly buttered, into which you have 
 put a little flour, knocking out all that does not adhere to the 
 butter, pour in the mixture and place it one hour in a moderate 
 oven, it may require longer or not so long, but that will depend 
 entirely upon the compass you have it in; if done, it will feel 
 firm to the touch, but the surest method is to run a thin wooden 
 skewer into the centre; if it comes out clean, the cake is done, 
 but if not some of the mixture would adhere to it; care should 
 be taken not to disturb it until quite set, or it would sink in the 
 centre, and never properly bake; when done, turn it out upon a 
 sieve to cool. Serve where indicated. 
 
 932. SMALL SPONGE CAKES.—Put six whole eggs 
 into an earthen pan with half a pound of sugar, upon which you 
 have previously rubbed the rind of a lemon, stand the pan in 
 very hot water, keeping its contents well mixed until becoming 
 rather warm, when take it from the water, continuing to whisk 
 until quite cold and thickish, stir in gently half a pound of sifted 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 391 
 
 flour have ready buttered and dusted with sugar, about a dozen 
 small sponge-cake tins, put a tablespoonful of the mixture into 
 each, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven. 
 
 933 POUND CAKES.—Put one pound of butter into an 
 earthen pan with a pound of powdered sugar, and a little grated 
 nutmp^, beat them well together with the hand until forming a 
 smoofh lightish cream, when add by degrees eight eggs, beating 
 it for um minutes after, then add a pound and a quarter of sifted 
 flojir, stir it in lightly, and put the mixture into hoops to bake. 
 
 > 934. QUEEN’S CAKES.—Weigh of butter the weight of 
 4ix eo-o-s, and nine of powdered sugar, which put together m an 
 earthen pan, beat well with the hand until forming a smooth 
 cream, when add by degrees nine eggs, and when well beat, stir 
 in the weight of nine eggs of flour and half a pound of currants; 
 have ready buttered about a dozen little round cake pans, fill 
 each one rather better than three parts full with the mixture, 
 
 ' shake suo-ar over, and bake them in a moderate oven. If no 
 cake pans, drop the mixture upon paper in pieces half the size 
 of a walnut, and an inch and a half apart, shake sugar over, bake 
 in a warm oven, and, when done, remove them from the papeis. 
 
 ■•■"nog ALMOND CAKES.—Procure one pound of ground 
 ' almonds, to which add two pounds of powdered sugar mixing 
 the whole with the whites of nine eggs, beating the mixture well 
 with a wooden spoon for about ten minutes, lay them ou up i 
 wafer paper of an oval shape with a tablespoon put three or four 
 strips of almonds upon the top of each, and bake them m a s 
 oven- when done, break away all the wafer paper but that which 
 adheres to the bottom of the cake, and, when cold, they are 
 
 ready for use. 
 
 036. COCOA-NUT BISCUITS.—Scrape four cocoa-nuts, 
 to which add the same weight of powdered sugar, mix wi 
 whites of eggs, beating with a wooden spoon until foirn 0 
 softish but thick paste; lay the mixture out upon waler-paper in 
 small drops, baking them as directed in the last. 
 
 937 MOSS BISCUITS— Weigh half a pound of flour, to 
 which add an ounce and a half of but ter and five ounces of sugar 
 rub them well together, and mix with one whole and one white 
 eg., and a teaspoonful of milk; then add two ounces of ground 
 almonds, which rub well into the paste; afterwards rub the whole 
 
392 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 through a gauze wire sieve, taking it off in small pieces, which 
 lay upon a lightly buttered baking-sheet, and bake them in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 938. ROUT CAKES.—Procure one pound of ground al¬ 
 monds, to which add one pound of powdered sugar, mixing them 
 together with yolks of eggs until forming a stiffish but flexible 
 paste, when form it into small biscuits of the shapes of coronets, 
 bunches of filberts, birds’ nests, or any other shape your fancy 
 may dictate; let them remain five or six hours, or all night upon 
 the baking-sheet, and bake them in a warm oven. 
 
 939. ROUT BISCUITS.—Boil a pound and a quarter of 
 lump sugar, upon which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon, in 
 half a pint of milk; when cold, rub half a pound of butter with 
 two pounds of flour, make a hole in the centre, pour in the milk 
 with as much carbonate of soda as would lie upon a sixpence, 
 and a couple of eggs, mix the whole into a smooth paste, lay it 
 out upon your baking-sheet in whatever flat shapes you please, 
 and bake them in a very warm oven. 
 
 The proper way to shape these biscuits is by wooden blocks 
 having leaves, pine-apples, and other devices carved upon them. 
 
 940. CREAM BISCUITS.—Rub one pound of fresh butter 
 into one pound of flour, make a hole in the centre, into which 
 put half a pound of powdered sugar,*- upon which the rind of a 
 lemon was rubbed previously to pounding, and three whole eggs; 
 mix the eggs well with the sugar, and then mix altogether, 
 forming a flexible paste; cut it into round pieces each nearly as 
 large as a walnut, stamp them flat with a butter-stamp of the 
 size of a crown piece, and bake them in a slack oven. 
 
 941. SHREWSBURY CAKES.—Weigh one pound of 
 flour, into which rub half a pound of butter and six ounces of 
 sugar, make a hole in the centre, into which break a couple of 
 eggs, and add sufficient milk to form a flexible paste, which roll 
 out to the thickness of a penny piece, and cut it into small cakes 
 with a round cutter; bake them in a moderate oven. 
 
 Ginger Cakes are made precisely as the above, but adding half 
 an ounce of ground ginger before mixing; and Cinnamon Cakes , 
 by rubbing in an ounce and a half of ground cinnamon after the 
 paste is mixed. 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 393 
 
 942. MACAROONS.—Blanch and skin half a pound of 
 sweet almonds, dry them well in your screen, then put them 
 into a mortar with a pound and a half of lump sugar, pound 
 well together, and pass the whole through a wire sieve;, put it 
 again into a mortar, with the whites of two eggs, mix well 
 together with the pestle, then add the white of another egg, 
 proceeding thus until you have used the whites of about eig it 
 ego-s and made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal 
 distances apart, upon wafer-paper, in pieces nearly the size of 
 walnuts, place some strips of almonds upon the top, sift sugar 
 over, and bake in a slow oven of a yellowish brown colour; they 
 are done when set quite firm through. 
 
 943. RATAFIAS.-—Ratafias are made similar to the above, 
 but deducting two ounces of sweet, and adding two ounces of 
 bitter almonds; they are laid out in much smaller cakes upon 
 common paper, and baked in a much warmer oven; when cold, 
 they may be taken off the paper with the greatest ease. 
 
 These cakes are very serviceable in making a great many 
 second-course dishes. 
 
 944. ITALIAN DROPS.—Have a mixture similar to the 
 * above, with merely a liqueur glassful of best noyeau, lay.it. in 
 
 round drops upon paper, and bake in a hot oven without sifting 
 any sugar over; when taken from the papers, dry them a little 
 
 in the screen, and they are ready to serve. . 
 
 The bottoms may be spread over with apricot marmalade, and 
 two stuck together just previous to being served, if appro\ed o . 
 
 945. BOLA D’AMOUR—LOVE CAKES.—Take the yolks 
 of e<rgs, as many as are required for the dish (about twelve), 
 and beat them up in a pan with an equal weight of sugar, the 
 same as sponge cakes, using any kind of liquor or essence for 
 flavouring. When the mixture is beaten up light and got thick, 
 have ready some clarified butter in a stewpan, made hot enough 
 for frying. Pour the mixture into a funnel having a smaJ bore 
 or pipe, and let it run into the hot butter, turning the hand 
 while it is running, so that it may be formed into threads all 
 over the surface of the pan. In about two minutes it will be 
 done, when it should be taken out. with a skimmer, and be 
 placed on the dish for serving, garnishing it with any kind ot 
 
 preserve, and serve cold. 
 
 Another way is, to beat up the eggs with some liquor, and 
 run it into some boiling syrup at the blow. 
 
394 
 
 DESSERT 
 
 \ 
 
 946. THE QUEEN VICTORIA’S CAKE.—To three- 
 quarters of a pound of flour, add half an ounce of German 
 yeast, mixed with warm water until forming a stiff paste, and 
 place it in a stewpan, and let it stand by the fire or oven until 
 well risen, during which time the butter must be well worked 
 until soft, adding a quarter of a pound of flour more and five 
 eggs gradually, and beat them well together; when done, if the 
 leaven is well risen, add to it one and a-half pound of raisins, 
 with a little salt and sugar; let it stand in the mould for a short 
 time, and bake it in a slow oven. 
 
 947. COTTAGE CAKE.—Procure from a baker half a' 
 quartern of dough, which put into an earthen pan; melt in a stew- 
 pan half a pound of either fresh or salt butter; mix both well 
 with the hand, adding half a pound of sugar; add to it half a 
 pound of currants well washed, one and a-half pound of plums, 
 and a teaspoonful of mixed spice; when well mixed, place it in 
 a hoop or pan before the fire; let it rise for one hour, and send 
 it to be baked; it will take about one hour in a slow oven. 
 
 948. WEST INDIA CAKE.—Proceed as above for the 
 ingredients; then add a quarter of a pound of preserved West 
 Indian ginger, cut in small dice, and four spoonfuls of brandy, 
 and two teaspoonfuls of dry grated ginger; bake as above. 
 
 949. ELETHERIAN PINE APPLE CAKE. — Take 
 three-quarters of a pound of pine apple, not over ripe, peel it; 
 place half a pound of white sugar in a pan, with half a pint of 
 water, boil till a thick syrup; cut the pine in small dice of a 
 quarter of an inch, and pour the syrup over; and, when nearly 
 cold, add to it the dough, which has previously been mixed with 
 three-quarters of a pound of butter and two eggs; let it rise in 
 a hoop as above, and bake in the same way: a glass of rum may 
 be added. 
 
 LETTER No. XVIII. 
 
 ROYAL ST. JAMES’S CAKE. 
 
 June 16, 1849. 
 
 My deak Eloise, —Though you did not expect to hear from me again to¬ 
 day, after the manuscript I forwarded to you, it is quite an unexpected cir¬ 
 cumstance that makes me write now, therefore you must know, dear, that, 
 through very great interest, I had this day the honour and pleasure to witness 
 
DESSERT. 
 
 395 
 
 one of the most interesting sights which England alone, at the present time, 
 can boast of. Not to tantalize your womanly curiosity, I shall, without delay, 
 tell you that it was a juvenile entertainment, given by the liberal and inde¬ 
 fatigable manager of the St. James’s Theatre, Mr. Mitchell, under the roof of 
 which house he had the honour of entertaining the Crowni of Great Britain, 
 the blooming buds of the Royal Family, supported by the rising branches of 
 the aristocracy, all with elegant bouquets, and possessing joyful faces, caused 
 by the excellent entertainment the intelligent proprietor provided to gratify 
 their infantine ideas. Nearly three hundred in number seemed to join their 
 happiness with that of the Prince of Wales, Prince Alfred, the Princess Royal, 
 and the Princess Alice, under the superintendence of her Most Gracious 
 Majesty, and their august father, Prince Albert, who, in a homely and happy 
 family manner, seemed, for the time, to have forgotten their mortal grandeur 
 in joining the you' ' r ^ f-ppiness of those lovely children, who, in time, will 
 be the ornament ancl pride of England. Knowing, by study, that pleasure 
 and satisfaction of mind, in any state of life, increase or create appetite, 
 especially upon children, on arriving at home, feeling rather tired, I lay 
 down on a couch, and took a short repose ; but being full of the pleasing 
 sight I had just witnessed, and my imagination lately so involved with gas¬ 
 tronomy, it caused me to dream that, by special order, I was to make a 
 monster cake for the luncheon of those lovely children, which they were to 
 partake of after their terpiscolyridramacomic festivity; to my ephemeral 
 ideas, the cake was made, and the table laid in a vast room, where grada¬ 
 tions of chairs and tables were erected in a demi-circle, at the top ot which 
 the branches of the royal family were gracefully sitting, and surrounded, 
 according to rank, by the other juveniles ; the banquetmg-hall seemed to me 
 like the theatre, decorated all over with festoons of natural flowers; the dn- 
 ferent tables were surcharged with every description of delicacy; fruit, ices, 
 effervescent refreshment of all kinds were provided; every child seemed to 
 be waited on by their noble parents, her Majesty leading them to follow her 
 maternal affection. When grace was invoked, I was appointed to cut and 
 distribute the monster cake, which, to my present recollection, was no less 
 than four feet in height, three wide, and most beautifully ornamented with 
 all kinds of bon-bons, small-fruits, pistaches, &c. Having reached the centre 
 platform, where that supposed chef-d’oeuvre of cake was exhibited and gazed 
 at by the widely-opened eyes of the youthful multitude, I was just in the act 
 of raising the knife which was placed there for me to cut it with, when my 
 hand all at once was seized, as if by magic, to prevent me from doing so. 
 After a deep sigh, I awoke, and perceived it was my younger boy Raphael 
 pulling me by the arm, saying, “ Mamma, the dinner is ready! Though 
 much annoyed with the sudden disappearance of such a fairy scene, I could 
 not find it in my heart to scold him for his innocent interference with my 
 enchanted illusion; but, as far as recollection serves me from a dream, I 
 
396 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 perfectly recollect all the delicate ingredients which I supposed I had put in 
 it; therefore, if you want to make a small one, proceed as follows : 
 
 950. ST. JAMES’S CAKE.—Put one pound of very fresh 
 butter in a good-size kitchen basin, and with the right hand 
 work it up well till it forms quite a white cream; then add one 
 pound powdered sugar, mix well, add ten eggs by degrees; put 
 to dry a pound and a quarter of flour, which mix as lightly as 
 possible with it; blanch and cut in slices two ounces of pistachios, 
 two ditto of green preserved angelica, add two liqueur glasses :>f 
 noyeau, two drops of essence of vanilla; whip a gill and a-half 
 of cream till very thick, mix lightly with a wooden spoon, have 
 a mould made the shape of the drawing, put it in, and send to 
 the baker; it will take about one hour and a quarter to bake; 
 ornament as represented in the subjoined cut: 
 
 ST. JAMES’S CAKE. 
 
 You will perceive, my dear, that my ideas are more extravagant in my 
 sleep than when awake, but pray consider who was to partake of it. 
 
 In case you do not succeed at first, I intend to give the receipt to Mr. 
 Purcell, of Comhill, who will make it to perfection for you. 
 
THE DINNER-TABLE. 
 
 397 
 
 LETTER No. XIX. 
 
 THE DINNER-TABLE. 
 
 My deae Eloise, —I thank you for your kind compliment, but I have 
 always been of opinion that the arrangements and serving of a dinner-table 
 have as much to do with the happiness and pleasure of a party as the viands 
 which are placed upon it; this I had a practical proof of last week. Mr. B. 
 and myself were invited to dine with Mr. D., a city friend, at Balham Hill, 
 
 I had before met Mrs. D. at an evening party at his partner’s, at Hackney, 
 and knew but little of her. 
 
 Dinner was served pretty punctually, only half an hour after time. On mj 
 entrance in the room my first glance at the table showed me that there was 
 a want of savoir-faire in its management; the plate, very abundant and 
 splendid, was of so yellow a cast that it looked as if it were plated, and the 
 cut glass was exceedingly dim. My first surprise was that there were no 
 napkins, the next the soup plates were quite cold, which I have found often 
 the case in other houses ; after being served with fish, and waiting until it 
 was cold for the sauce to eat with it, I was rather sceptical how the rest of 
 the dinner would progress. After the first, the second course made its ap¬ 
 pearance, which was heavy and too abundant; the plain things were well 
 done, but there was only one servant in the room for the whole party of four¬ 
 teen, and from the strict formality of the table, it would have been a sacrilege 
 to have handed your plate for any vegetables, or anything else you might 
 require. There were four saltcellars, certainly very massive silver ones, at 
 each corner of the table, and a beautiful cruet-frame in the centre; the hot 
 dishes of this course, like the previous one, became cold and tasteless before 
 being eaten, and during the time the servant was serving the champagne all 
 the plates were empty ; in fact, it was a good dinner spoilt. The wine drank 
 with less gout than usual, and the long pauses between the courses made the 
 formality appear still greater than it really was, and made you wish for the 
 time to arrive for the cloth to be removed, which was not done, only the 
 slips, a most awkward undertaking for one servant, and should never be 
 practised unless having at least two. 
 
 About half an hour after the cloth was removed, and just as the conversa¬ 
 tion was being thawed from the freezing it received at the dinner-table, 
 Mrs. D. and the ladies withdrew, and for an hour and a half we had to bear 
 the insipid conversation of the drawing-room, the hissing urn on the tea-table 
 bearing a prominent part. Several messages were sent from time to time to 
 the dining-room that coffee was ready; and when at last the gentlemen came, 
 two had had quite wine enough, which caused them to receive sundry angry 
 looks from their wives who were present, and who were glad to get them into 
 
398 
 
 THE DINNER-TABLE. 
 
 their carriages, which were waiting, aDd right glad indeed was I when ours 
 was announced. 
 
 This all happened, my dear Eloise, not from meanness; for if money 
 could have purchased it nothing would have been wanting, but solely from 
 want of management; and every one should think before they invite their 
 friends to partake of their hospitality if they know how to entertain them. 
 Money of course will provide delicacies of all kinds, but to know how to dis¬ 
 pose of those delicacies to the best advantage, that your friends may appre¬ 
 ciate them, is what is sadly wanting in more than one house I visit. 
 
 A very excellent remark is made in this week’s Punch* by Mr. Brown, in 
 his Letters to a Young Man about town on the subject of great and little 
 dinners. He says : “ Properly considered, the quality of the dinner is twice 
 blest; it blesses him that gives, and him that takes ; a dinner with friend¬ 
 liness is the best of all friendly meetings—a pompous entertainment, where 
 no love is, is the least satisfactory.” 
 
 Our dinner on which you compliment me so much, we sat down twelve, 
 for although the room and table would accommodate more, yet as my service 
 of plate is for that number, and the arrangements of the kitchen are limited, 
 that is the number I prefer, besides beyond which the conversation becomes 
 partial, which is the bane of a dinner-table. You know we have no regular 
 man-servant, but for these occasions I hire two, and place one on each side 
 the table, and they each have their own side table with a change of every¬ 
 thing that is required. The first thing to be looked to is the lights : these 
 ought to be so placed as not to intercept the view of any person at the table, 
 but at the same time they ought to be enough to show everything off to ad¬ 
 vantage ; I prefer removing some of the lights from the table to the sideboard 
 when the cloth is removed, as the light after dinner ought to be more sub¬ 
 dued. In laying the cloth, we place it over the baize and remove it after 
 dinner, as Mr. B. says he likes to see the mahogany, for when he asks a City 
 friend to come and put his feet under his mahogany, it looks rather foolish if 
 he never sees it. I have, as you know, my table rather wide, that is, six 
 feet, and I generally place a vase of flowers in the centre, as I think their 
 freshness and odour add greatly to the appearance of the table, and admit a 
 franc on each side. We prefer the old English plan of taking the top and 
 bottom of the table instead of I and Mr. B. being together at the side. 
 
 The cloth being laid with its proper side uppermost, I order a napkin, two 
 knives, two prongs, two tablespoons, and two wine glasses to be placed to 
 each person, a saltcellar between every other, that being a condiment which 
 every one uses, though often wrongly ; the cruet-frames and other requisites 
 are kept on the sideboards. I then have the fish and soup served together. 
 
 * July, 1849. 
 
THE DINNER-TABLE. 
 
 399 
 
 the potatoes and sauce on the sideboard; I serving the soup, and Mr. B. the 
 fish, and often a little dish of fried fish, such as smelts, &c., to remove the 
 soups. This gives me an opportunity of seeing that my guests are properly 
 attended to, and also leisure of taking wine with any gentleman who 
 challenges me. During the time this course has been progressing, the cook 
 has bad time to dish up the removes nice and hot, and get all up close to the 
 door, as I like as little time as possible to intervene in changing the dishes; 
 and these consist generally of variously dressed chickens, which I have before 
 me, as this gives an opportunity for the gentleman on my right to display his 
 gallantry; but, thanks to Soyer’s separator, this is an easy task : it also 
 affords me still further leisure to pay attention to my guests. Mr. B., who is. 
 a capital carver, either has a saddle or a haunch of mutton, or a quarter of 
 lamb before him, the rest of the dishes consisting of a tongue and entrees. I 
 select those most easy to carve, and also easy for the cook to prepare. This 
 is a period of dinner where a great deal depends upon the attendants ; they 
 should know almost by the look what this lady or that gentleman require, 
 and what kind of vegetables to hand them ; a first-rate butler should be able 
 to judge by the physiognomy to whom he should offer mint sauce with the 
 lamb, and who prefers cayenne ; on their attention and hot plates depends 
 the success of the substantial part of the dinner. 
 
 As soon as I see that all are served, and words are few in consequence of 
 the organs which utters them being employed in another way, I give a look 
 to the two servants which they understand, and immediately two reports are 
 heard—they are from two bottles of champagne, opened at the same time by 
 the attendants, who have each a salver with six glasses on it; this takes but 
 a short time to serve, and prepares the palate for the entrees, which generally 
 get praised ; indeed, my cook would think something was wrong if two of the 
 dishes did not go down empty. By having the champagne thus, I find it 
 goes much further than if only one bottle was opened at the time, there 
 being sufficient left in the bottles for a gentleman to challenge a lady to take 
 champagne with him. If I have game I remove the top and bottom dishes 
 with them, and make the sweets a separate course, taking care to have cold 
 plates for the jelly, and having the liquors handed round when the sweets are 
 on the table; one cheese I place opposite Mr. B., and macaroni opposite 
 myself. Objections have been made to the use of napkins, as being of no 
 service at an English dinner-table, and only a copy of the dirty manners of 
 our neighbours. If we are more cleanly at the table than they are, (which I 
 question), there is no reason why we should not use that which would make us 
 still more so ; but Mr. B. is so pleased with the rose water which he has at 
 the court dinners of his company, that he made me a present of those two 
 beautiful dishes which you admired so much. The outside compartment 
 holds rose water, and the inner one a little eau-de-cologne ; these are placed 
 on salvers, and passed down each side of the table, the corner of each napkin 
 
400 
 
 THE DINNER-TABLE. 
 
 being clipped into it. They seem to be absolutely required, and I must say 
 they form a delightful adjunct to the dinner-table. 
 
 Mr. B.* has also introduced at our table, but only at Christmas, another 
 city custom, which the gentlemen seem very much to like,—I cannot say so 
 for the ladies ; it is what he calls the loving cup ; he has it placed before him 
 when the cheese is put on ; and after filling the glass of the lady on each side 
 of him, he rises and drinks to their health and the rest of the company, and 
 then passes it to the gentleman on the left, who in like manner, fills the glass 
 of the lady on his left, rises, drinks to her health and the company, and thus 
 it goes round the table. Your husband, my dear Eloise, thought that the 
 contents were exceedingly good ; or, as he expressed it, nectar fit for the 
 gods, and would like to have the receipt—here it is as Mr. B. prepares it:— 
 
 Loving Cup. —The cup holds two quarts : he places in it half a teacupful 
 of capillaire ; if he has none he uses dissolved lump sugar, with a few drops 
 of orange-flower water in it, one pint of brown sherry, one bottle of good 
 Edinburgh ale, mixing these together, and a minute before placing cn the 
 table, adding one bottle of soda water,f stirring it well up till it froths, he 
 then grates some nutmeg on the froth, and places a piece of toast in it, and 
 sends it to the table with a napkin through the handle of the cup. I must 
 say, since we have had this, it has produced some most interesting conversa¬ 
 tion as regarded the antiquity of the custom, &c. In addition, Mr. B. bought 
 the cup at a sale, and it is stated to have been drunk out of by Henry the 
 Eighth : this of itself is a subject of conversation, and draws out the talents 
 and conversational powers of our guests, and one in which ladies can join, as 
 there is hardly one of our sex who has not read Miss Strickland’s “ Queens of 
 England.” You have often made the remark, that the time always appears 
 short whilst we are at table ; this is, no doubt, from the animated conversa¬ 
 tion which is kept up, for that is the real motive of meeting together, to 
 enjoy the conversation of one another, to gain and impart information, and 
 amuse ourselves with the wit and talent of those around us, and not for the 
 sake of eating and drinking ; yet without the assistance of both of these, the 
 most sparkling wit would be as heavy as a bad souffle, and the brightest 
 talent as dull as my looking-glass on a foggy day. 
 
 In order to prolong the time, and to enjoy the gentlemen’s society as much 
 as possible, I do not have the dessert placed on the table until ten or twenty 
 minutes after the cloth is removed ; this gives an opportunity for my guests 
 to admire the beautiful Sevres dessert plates, containing views of different 
 French chateaux ; this of course gives a subject for conversation to those who 
 have visited them. In the dessert I generally introduce some new importa- 
 
 * With regard to the wine, that is a matter I leave entirely to Mr. B., but 
 his maxim is, that “the best is the cheapest.” 
 
 + Soyer’s nectar, instead of soda water, is an improvement. 
 
THE DINNER-TABLE. 
 
 401 
 
 tion, such as bananas, sugar-cane, American lady apples, prickly pears, &c. ; 
 these also give a subject for the gentlemen to talk about when the ladies 
 have left, as free trade, colonial policy, &c. About half an hour after the 
 dessert is on the table, and when I see that the conversation is becoming less 
 general, I retire to the drawing-room ; the servants then remove the used 
 glass and plates, and Mr. B. introduces some of his choice Claret or Burgundy 
 in ice coolers. 
 
 You know, my dear Eloise, I allow very little more than half an hour 
 for us to talk about the last new fashions, or of Mrs. A. and B.’s cap, and 
 the young ones about their partners at the last ball, and other nothings, when 
 the tea and coffee are brought up on salvers; it is always made down stairs, 
 and sent up in cups to the drawing-room, although Mr. B. had a very hand¬ 
 some silver service presented to him just after we were married, for serving 
 as an honorary secretary to some grand masonic festival, yet tlie milk ewer 
 and sugar basin are all I allow in the room. This does away with the 
 formality of the tea-table and the hissing of the tea-urn ; it allows some 
 young gentleman with a Byron collar and a little down under his chin to 
 turn over the pages of a music-book for a young lady at the piano, and take 
 his coffee at the same time ■ it allows my dear mamma and Mr. P. to make 
 up their whist table, and have their tea whilst playing ; or if we make up a 
 quadrille, to have a few turns of a waltz or polka, the coffee is serving during 
 the time ; whilst this is going on the hand of the clock advances, and half 
 past ten soon arrives, and with it Mrs. C/s fly ; Dr. D/s brougham is at the 
 door ; the party breaks up, delighted with the evening they have passed 
 each other’s society : and this you see done with trifling management. 
 
 LETTER No. XX. 
 
 4k 
 
 Deakest Eloise, —You are right in your remark, that there is a great 
 difference as to the manner and way in which evening parties or soirees are 
 given in different houses, although being frequented by the same party of 
 circle. I must say I have my own ideas on this subject, and I think the 
 French understand this matter much better than we do, and that we could 
 not do better than imitate them. We English are a plodding, matter-of-fad 
 people, and carry our notions into every concern in life : our dinners and. 
 entertainments are given with an ulterior object, and with a view of what 
 may be gained from it, even from the charitable dinner at the London r l avern 
 to the man who asks another to partake a crust of bread and cheese and a 
 pint of beer with him at a public-house. It is this feeling, together with the 
 ostentation, which is the bane of society, by bringing together people of 
 incongruity of ideas, and destroying that free exchange of thought which 
 constitutes the true pleasure of social reunions. >Ye are also naturally e* 
 
 D D 
 
402 
 
 BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES. 
 
 reserved and cautious disposition : hence the reason why the pleasures of a 
 Soiree are not felt until after supper. For these I am a great advocate, 
 though not to the extravagant and outre manner so many are given at the 
 present day. Of course in the way most ladie3 are now educated, they would 
 rather be attending to the adornment of their persons for the occasion than 
 to the entertainment and amusement of their guests. Those who can afford 
 it, are quite right to patronise a first-rate confectioner, and thus save them¬ 
 selves the trouble ; but how many that cannot afford to do the same thing, 
 and make a bargain for a bad supper, by which they gain but little, and 
 cause the guests great disgust, instead of preparing it at home, and ordering 
 a few good things which would look and eat well. There are a variety of 
 drinks which could be made at a moderate expense, good and wholesome, 
 and infinitely better than bad Marsala, which you are often obliged to par¬ 
 take of. I will enclose you a few receipts for them, and some bills of fare for 
 suppers for small soirees, not such as described in Mr. Pips his Diary a few 
 weeks since. 
 
 BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES. 
 
 951. LEMONADE.—Peel six lemons free from pith, cut the 
 peel up in small pieces, and put them with two cloves into a 
 bottle with half a pint of hot water, and place it in a bain-marie, 
 or stewpan, with boiling water, and let it stand by the side of 
 the fire for one or two hours, taking care it does not boil; remove 
 it and let it remain until cold; then take half a pint of lemon- 
 juice, half a pint of capillaire—if none, use sugar, that will make 
 the same quantity of syrup—to which add a few drops of orange- 
 flower water; add the infusion of the rind, stir well together, 
 and add two quarts of cold water. The acidity of some lemons 
 is greater than others, in which case, and also if using lime 
 juice, more capillaire must be used. 
 
 952. COLD PUNCH.—Proceed as abflve for lemonade, but 
 add one pint of capillaire to half a pint of lemon juice, one pint 
 of pale brandy, one pint of pale rum, one tablespoonful of arrack, 
 and five quarts of cold water; let it remain some time before it 
 is decantered. 
 
 953. PORT WINE NEGUS.—Take one quart of new- port 
 wine, of a fruity character, one tablespoonful of spirit of cloves, 
 one teacupful of sugar, one lemon sliced, half a nutmeg grated, 
 pour over these two quarts of boiling water. 
 
SANDWICHES. 
 
 403 
 
 954. WHITE WINE FILLIP.—Take one bottle of sherry 
 or Madeira, or champagne, or any other good white wine, a gill 
 of noyeau or maraschino, the juice of half a lemon, add to it one 
 quart of calf’s foot jelly well sweetened and boiling hot, and 
 serve immediately. 
 
 955. SANDWICHES.—In making a large quantity, a stale 
 quartern loaf should be taken and trimmed free from all crust, 
 and cut into slices the eighth of an inch in thickness, slightly 
 buttered, and then thin slices of meat, nicely trimmed, may be 
 laid on and covered with another slice of bread, and then cut 
 into eight parts; should they be cut some time before they are 
 wanted, they ought to be put one over the other, as they thus 
 keep moist,—a little mustard and salt may be added to the meat, 
 if preferred. Some thin slices of gherkin may be added to the 
 meat, and the same plan can be adopted with pickled fish, brawn, 
 or sausages. 
 
 The following varies the common mode of making sand¬ 
 wiches 
 
 956. CHEESE SANDWICH {quite new ).—Take a small 
 quantity of very fresh cream cheese, put it into a basin or a 
 marble mortar, add some salt, pepper, and a little mustard, beat 
 it well up until it is of the same consistence as butter; if too 
 hard, add a little of the latter, and use it as butter on the bread, 
 with slices of meat between. 
 
 957. SALAD SANDWICHES.—Cover the bread as before, 
 and have ready some mustard and cress and water-cresses well 
 washed and dried, put into a bowl with mayonnaise sauce, and 
 when ready to serve place it neatly between the bread. 
 
 LETTER No. XXI. 
 
 -Farm, Essex, July —, 1849. 
 
 My dear Eloise, —You are no doubt surp/ised at receiving this from 
 the above address, but you remember when yon last called I thought my 
 little Emily was unwell, the next day she seemed worse, I then had Dr. —, 
 who ordered her out of town, and a friend of Mr. B.’s being present recom¬ 
 mended this place; so Emily and I have now beoe a week here, and she has 
 already improved by the change of air; it has aiso done me good, and I am 
 
 D D 2 
 
404 
 
 BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 
 
 greatly amused with the various occupations going on in the farm, which is 
 an old-fashioned one, tenanted by a good old English farmer, his wife, and 
 son; the latter is gone to see a brother settled in Liverpool. The cleanliness 
 and regularity of the house are quite charming; but what delights me more 
 than all is the dairy—such delicious cream and butter that it makes me quite 
 envy people living in the country! 
 
 I must describe the pretty dairy to you: it is situated at the back of the 
 house, and sheltered by it from the mid-day and afternoon’s sun, and from the 
 morning’s sun by a plantation, so that it is deliciously cool; it is about twelve 
 feet long by ten wide, paved with flag stones, and the walls of plaster, like 
 stone, a door at one end with a window above and a window high up at the 
 other end, and two windows at the side; these have thin wire shutters and 
 glazed sashes on hinges; the roof is of slate, with about two feet thickness of 
 thatch over it; there are also several little openings for the admission of air, 
 about one inch from the floor. A dresser, two feet wide, being two inches 
 from the wall, is on both sides, and above these are two shelves of nine inches 
 wide, also two inches from the wall, these are supported on iron brackets. 
 At the end, and opposite the door, is the churn, which is turned by a wheel 
 outside, with apparatus for a donkey or mule to work it, if required. 
 
 Ail the utensils are of sycamore wood and perfectly clean, never used twice 
 without washing in hot water with soda put in it, and made perfectly dry. 
 
 There are as many ways of making butter as there are counties in Great 
 Britain. I will now tell you how it is practised here. The cows are milked 
 at a regular hour, not later than five, the milk taken as soon as possible into 
 the dairy, and placed in the dishes, about six quarts in each; it is thus left for 
 twenty-four hours; then it is skimmed, and the cream from each is placed in 
 a deep bowl or pan, where it remains until the next day, when it is churned. 
 Eridav’s milk is made into cheese; when churned it is gathered well together 
 from the milk and laid in a clean bowl, with hard spring water in it, and 
 worked to and fro until it is brought to a firm consistence; it is then laid 
 out thin, and then what is called here a scotcher is taken—that is, a kind of 
 five-pronged fork of wood, only each prong is as sharp as a knife and drawn 
 through every part of it ; then whatever salt is required is added, and it is then 
 formed into pats, or done any way they like. If intended as corned or salt 
 butter, they then add one pound of fine salt to every fourteen pounds of butter; 
 in some places the coarsest grained salt is used; in others two pounds of salt, 
 one pound of saltpetre, and one pound of white sugar mixed together, one 
 fourth of this for every fourteen pounds. If intended for keeping, it is put 
 into stone crocks until it is wanted. The way in which they make the cheese 
 here is as follows: all Friday’s milk is taken, that of the morning is kept 
 until the afternoon, and mixed with it; then two spoonfuls of rennet to every 
 twelve quarts of milk are put to it and well mixed, it is then left all night. 
 Very early the next morning the curd is removed with aistrainer and equally 
 
CLOUTED CREAM. 
 
 405 
 
 broken into the cheese vat or mote until it is about one inch above the brim, 
 a cheese cloth or strainer having previously been put at the bottom of the vat, 
 and large enough to allow for part of it to be turned over the top when the vat 
 is filled; when thus filled it is taken to the press, and left for two hours with 
 a clean cloth under it; it is then turned over on the cloth, and pressed again; 
 and the same process is continued three or four hours out of the twenty-four. 
 It is then removed and placed on the shelf, and turned regularly every day for 
 the first two months; after that, occasionally. 
 
 I intend to try my hand at it shortly, and see what I can make of it. 
 
 I find that the butter which is made here and potted for winter use, is not 
 intended to be sold as salt, but as fresh, and the dairy-maid has just told me 
 how it is done. For every quart of new milk from the cow, she takes one 
 pound of potted butter, which has been treated thus the day previous r into 
 two quarts of cold water two tablespoonfuls of vinegar are mixed, and the 
 potted butter well broken and kneaded in it, and then taken out, and served 
 the same in fresh water, in which it is left until the next morning, and then 
 mixed with the milk, put into the churn and churned again, and then treated 
 in the usual way as butter ; by this plan there is a large quantity of sweet 
 milk always in the farm, as it is exceedingly good when strained. 
 
 The following is the way they make the clouted cream:— 
 
 958. CLOUTED CREAM.—Strain the milk as soon as it 
 comes from the cow into wide pans, holding about six quarts 
 each, so as to be about three inches deep, and let it remain for 
 twenty-four hours; then gently place the pan upon a hot plate 
 or slow charcoal fire, which must heat it very gently, for if it 
 boils it is spoilt; as soon as the cream forms a ring in the 
 middle, remove a little with the finger, and if there are a few 
 bubbles rise in the place where you do so, it is done, which will 
 be in half to three quarters of an hour; remove it from the fire, 
 and let it remain twenty-four hours; then skim it, and throw a 
 little sugar on the top. 
 
 There is also a large quantity of milk which undergoes a particular process, 
 which I shall hereafter describe, and is then sent to London, to Mr. Fadeuilhe, 
 where it is made into a solid substance, so that it is preserved for ships’ use. 
 I have tried some of it, and very excellent it is. 
 
 LETTER XXII. 
 
 Bifrons Villa, July 22, 1849. 
 
 My dear EloiSe, —You will perceive by this that I am at home again, 
 my return is in consequence ot Mr. B. being obliged to leave town unex¬ 
 pectedly on business. 0 these men! what important busy beings they are; 
 
406 
 
 CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS. 
 
 but we will not talk of them now, our present business being of too great 
 moment to allow of trifling away our time on such uncertain subjects.— 
 Emily is still in the country and daily improving. 
 
 Thanks to your indefatigable perseverance, our culinary correspondence is 
 drawing to a close; but I intend, when I return again to the farm, to write 
 you a few letters of what a country housewife is or ought to be, as I under¬ 
 stand Mr. L. is half inclined to purchase the small farm belonging to our old 
 friend Mr. H. They may prove useful, particularly if in a small form, so 
 that you may have them printed and circulated among the labouring popula¬ 
 tion for a mere trifle. 
 
 I anticipate the pleasure of seeing you as soon after the receipt of this as 
 possible. Best regards to Mr. L. Yours in haste, 
 
 Hoetense. 
 
 CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS. 
 
 Mrs. L. After all the receipts and information which you have given me, 
 there is one which you have not touched upon yet, which, perhaps, is of 
 more importance than all the rest, it is the management of servants. 
 
 Mrs. B. You are right, my dear, it is of great importance, and more so 
 than many of us imagine; as for myself I do not consider that I am a good 
 manager, being perhaps of too forgiving a disposition; but there is one good 
 quality which I possess which makes up for the want of others, that is exacti¬ 
 tude ; by enforcing this it causes all to know their place, and perform their 
 work. 
 
 Mrs. L. But what surprises me is to see everything so well done and clean 
 with so few servants; you seem to have but two maid servants, a cook, a 
 housemaid, and a coachman. 
 
 Mrs. B. Yes, that is all, and I generally find that they are enough for the 
 work, unless I have a dinner party, and then of course, as you know, I have 
 extra men; but I will tell you how I pass the day, and then you will be able 
 to judge. 
 
 We are what are called early risers, that is, Mr. B. is obliged to leave 
 home every work day at twenty minutes past nine; our breakfast is on the 
 able at half-past eight; the breakfast parlour having previously been got 
 ready, as the servants rise at seven. When we have no visitors, our two 
 selves, the three children, and the governess, form the breakfast circle. The 
 children, in summer time, have a walk before breakfast, but before leaving 
 their room they uncover their beds, and if fine, open the windows, if a wet 
 morning about two inches of the top sash is pulled down. The servants get 
 their breakfast at the same time as we do, as we require hardly any or no 
 Waiting upon, everything being ready on the table. In a former letter I told 
 
CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS. 
 
 407 
 
 you what was our breakfast some years since when in business now we have 
 placed on the table some brown bread, rolls, and dry toast • the butter 
 a glass butter-dish, and the eggs are brought up when we have sat do™ 
 table. The urn is placed on the table, as I make my own tea and coffee, 
 
 the cocoa is made down stairs. 
 
 You will perhaps be surprised when I say that I make the coffee fo 
 breakfast myself, but I have done so for some little time pas*,- having oun 
 that when made in the kitchen it never came up twice alike, but now we 
 
 always have it delicious. . , „ 
 
 I lately purchased a coffee-pot which enables me to do it m tie very 
 
 best manner, with no more trouble than I have in making e ea. 
 called Cary’s Hecla. Its great excellence is that it is so very easy o . 
 It makes the very best coffee at one short operation, and is so contrived as 
 produce it almost boiling hot, without ever permitting the great mistake 
 
 boiling the coffee at all. -r 
 
 In addition to the eggs we often have cold meat, and sometimes Mr. R* 
 
 has a cutlet or any other nick-nack, which I always cook myself 
 breakfast table with my newly-invented Magic lamp-stove." 
 
 With this I cook all light things, such as cutlets, poached eggs, ham, baco , 
 &c., and in many respects it is very convenient. 
 
 Mr B generally leaves home in the brougham, which is returned in time 
 for me, in case I "should be going out; and he returns in a cab or omnibus 
 Whilst we are at breakfast, I generally consult Mr B what he wouid 
 for dinner, and if he is likely to invite any friend to dine with hum 
 fishmonger has previously sent his list and prices of the day I tlhen write 
 with a pencil on a slip of paper the bill of fare for the nursery nhnner, luncheon 
 should any be required, and our dinner, which I send to the cook. At ten 
 o’clock I go down stairs into the kitchen and larder, when the cook gives in 
 her report, that is, everything that is required for the next twenty-form 
 hours’ consumption, including the servants’ dinner,, which report‘s filed m 
 the larder and made to tally with the week’s list, for must tellyoutM.the 
 weeks’ consumption of all things that will not spoil is had in on the Saturday, 
 on which day the larder is properly scoured out and everything put ag 
 into its proper place, there being bins for all kinds of vegetables, &c. The 
 larder is generally kept locked, the cook and I only having keys, because 
 “in fact f larder, and not, as in many houses, full of emptiness; this occupies 
 
 * This is as you see by the engraving, a very neat and portable cooking 
 
 apparatl the hS is givL by the vapour of ^"^tfe 
 „ • it will cook cutlets or boil water m as short a tune as the best 
 
 charcoal and to the sportsman on the moors must be of great, utility; with 
 the saute-pan everything can be cooked as on a charcoal fire, and with a sm 
 Sucemn anything that may be required in the room of the invalid, where the 
 S o “to would not be allowed? For further particulars see advertisement. 
 
408 
 
 CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS. 
 
 about half an hour, during which time the chambermaids have been attend¬ 
 ing to the bed-rooms and drawing-room, &c. If I go out or not, I always get 
 my toilet finished by twelve o’clock; I thus have one hour to write notes, or 
 see tradesmen or my dressmaker, and Monday mornings check and pay my 
 tradesmen’s accounts, and to dress. If I stop at home I amuse myself by 
 reading, or going to see the children in the nursery, or sometimes go again 
 into the kitchen and assist the cook on some new receipt or preparation, and 
 often have several calls; during the course of the morning the two maids 
 scour out alternately one or two of the rooms, according to size, except on 
 Wednesdays, when one of them is otherwise engaged. 
 
 Mr. B. arrives home at twenty minutes to five, and at half-past five we 
 dine; the cloth is laid, and everything prepared as if we had company; it may 
 be a 1 ttle more trouble to the servants; but when we do have any friends 
 they find it less so; besides it is always uncertain but what Mr. B. may 
 bring so ebody home with him, and it prevents slovenly habits; the two 
 maids, with the exception of Wednesdays, are always ready to attend on us. 
 I never allow the coachman to defile our carpets with his stable shoes; all 
 his duties in the house are—the first thing in the morning to clean the 
 knives and forks for the day, for enough are kept out for that purpose, clean 
 the boots and shoes, and those windows the maids cannot easily get at, and 
 assist in the garden if required. Many have made the remark to me, that as 
 you have a male servant why not have him wait at table. I reply that the 
 duties of the stable are incompatible with those of the table, and if he does his 
 duty properly he has enough to do. The servants dine at one—the nursery 
 dinner is at the same hour—and have tea at a quarter to five, by which time 
 the cook has the dinner ready, all but to take it from the fire, and the maids 
 the dining-room ready. After dinner, should we be alone, we have the 
 children and the governess down; if we have company we do not see them; 
 they go to bed at a quarter to eight, and we have tea and coffee at eight ; 
 the governess comes and passes the rest of the evening with us; eleven is 
 our usual hour of retiring, before which Mr. B. likes his glass of negus, a 
 biscuit, or a sandwich, which is brought upon a tray. 
 
 Mrs. L. —What you have described to me is all very well, yet I am certain, 
 that if I go and try to do the same to-morrow, I shall not succeed; how is it 
 that you have everything in its place, and I never hear a word said to the 
 servants ? 
 
 Mrs. B. —It is because they all know their duties, and if they should in 
 any way neglect them, I think of the maxim, bear and forbear, for none of 
 us are perfect, and I take an opportunity when I may be alone with them to 
 tell them quietly of their faults. Some mistresses will go into the kitchen 
 and be angry with them before the other servants; the consequence is, that 
 as soon as her back s turned they all begin to laugh. A ridiculous incident 
 of this kind occurred the other evening at Mrs. G.’s. We missed her out of 
 
409 
 
 CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLP AFFAIRS. 
 
 the drawing-room just before tea, and it appeared that her young boy Fred 
 followed her ; whilst we were at tea he was very communicative, as children 
 sometimes will be (l’enfant terrible), and said, “We have been having such 
 fun in the kitchen.” On inquiry he said, “ My mother has been down stairs 
 scolding Jane, and I hid myself behind the door ; and when my mother had 
 o-one up, Betsy the cook spoke and moved her hands just like mamma ; 1 
 made us all laugh so, it was such fun.” I need not tell you it was no fun 
 
 for Mrs G-, who looked rather annoyed. We should ever remember, 
 
 that we have our feelings, and should also think that others have theirs: and 
 I think it as much the mistress’s fault when anything goes wrong m e 
 house as the servants’. I only lose my servants when they get married, or 
 from ill health, and the only thing that I find bad, is, that they quarrel 
 amongst themselves; but should this occur thrice with the same two, 1 
 dismiss them both. I am certain, that if you teach your servants to take 
 care of themselves, they are certain to take care of you. I contmua y lear 
 Mrs. M. complaining of changing her servants, and that seems to be her sole 
 occupation. Poor thing, she has no children, and nothing to occupy her 
 mind, and without occupation the mind becomes diseased, and the least ac ion 
 throws it into fever. Mrs. N. complains of the extravagance of her servants; 
 it is her own extravagance, or, more properly speaking, her want of manage¬ 
 ment, which causes all; but this I really think, that if everybody were more 
 cautious in receiving and giving characters to servants than what they 
 are, we should not hear the continual complaint we do when often assembled 
 in the drawing-room after dinner, when, perhaps, some dear old lady com¬ 
 plains of the education given to young people of the present day, and that, 
 in time, there will be no such thing as servants. To some extent l am of her 
 opinion, and consider that the education given by all classes to their children 
 is a great deal more ornamental than useful. I would rather see the child 
 taught some of the accomplishments of housekeeping, than that.she should 
 be considered as the mere ornament of the drawing-room. It is for t at 
 reason I patronise that institution in this metropolis, which stands almost 
 alone in the education of those entrusted to its care. I became acquainted 
 with it from Mr. B. serving as steward at its anniversary festival, and 
 inscribing my name as a life governess. (It is the Freemasons’ Girls’ School.) 
 There is no servant kept, and the duties of the house are performed by the 
 children in classes, taking it in turns a week each ; and thus with a good and 
 useful education, they are taught all those duties which devolve upon them 
 when they increase in years ; and when we see that several of the parents of 
 those children at the time of their birth have kept their carriages and esta¬ 
 blishments, I think it is the bounden duty of every mother, where the income 
 of the husband may be dependent on trade or profession, to give them that 
 education which even the most adverse of circumstances may call upon them 
 to assume; and the more so, as at the present day talent requiies to be 
 
410 
 
 CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS. 
 
 beyond mediocrity, and to possess genius ; for, from the liberality of England 
 and her institutions, the genius of the world has sought it for a home, and in 
 it may be found a versatility of talent unknown in any other country, and 
 no child should be educated for a profession unless showing a decided predi¬ 
 lection for it, which predilection may always be known at an early age, when 
 its innate mind shows itself unwarped by education. Look at the advertise¬ 
 ments which appear in the public press every day !—Young girls offering 
 themselves as governesses, to be remunerated by their board; whereas, if 
 they had been educated with a knowledge of the duties of the household, they 
 would have made good ladies’ maids or housekeepers, or useful wives to 
 tradesmen. 
 
 Mrs. L .—It seems, my dear, that one of the maids is engaged upon some 
 other work on Wednesday: you have not told me for what purpose. 
 
 Mrs. B .—I have not, and I know you will laugh at me when I tell you 
 that we wash at home. 
 
 Mrs. L .—Wash at home ! my dear Mrs. B. ! im-pos-si-ble! where? how?— 
 
 Mrs. B .—Tt is a fact, I have done so for some time past; as regards the 
 where and how, to morrow being Wednesday, you shall see ; but I will now 
 take and show you the laundry, and tell you why I did it. We formerly 
 sent our washing to a large laundry some little distance from London, where 
 it was beautifully got up ; but noticing one day some of my cambric handker¬ 
 chiefs with the name in marking ink nearly obliterated; and the place where 
 it was very thin, I could not account for it ; on further examination of the 
 sheets and pillow-cases I found that the place where the mark ought to have 
 been was a long hole, exactly as if it had been cut out. I was certain it 
 could not have been done on purpose, and it occurred to me that it might be 
 some preparation used in the washing, which had an effect on the caustic or 
 acid used in the ink which rotted the linen round it. It being a fine day, I 
 drove off at once to the laundry, and a most excellent establishment it is; 
 and I must say that the proprietress had no idea of the harm she was doing 
 in using the kind of alkali she did, but this I was also convinced of, that she 
 would never be able to clean the variety of articles sent to her without it. 
 But I have since found out that it was the peculiar nature of the ink which 
 was used. 
 
 On my way home I reflected seriously on the matter, and happening to 
 pass the baths and washhouses in the New Road, I stopped and examined 
 them, which gave me those ideas I have since carried out.—In regard to the 
 choice of the day, it is one that ever since I have been married, Mr. B. con¬ 
 sidered his own in dining out or going to the play, and it is very rarely either 
 of us dine at home on that day. 
 
 One of the maids take it in turns along with a charwoman, and they 
 manage to get all washed and mangled on the Wednesday, and the char¬ 
 woman irons alone on the Thursday. 
 
CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS. 
 
 411 
 
 We will now go and see it through this window, as it has a door which 
 opens into the garden; the place it occupies was formerly a passage from the 
 area to the stables, as you see the basement floor is on a level with the 
 original ground, and not sunk as in many houses—a plan I prefer, considering 
 it more wholesome, therefore this slope is made ground. Here we are ; you 
 will perceive it is rather narrow, but I make up for it m height; it is but 
 eight feet by sixteen ; these are the four troughs for hot and cold water, sup¬ 
 plied from the circulating boiler in the kitchen. On the day the laundry 
 is not used, the water is turned off, and then only supplies the baths 
 at the top of the house. I had an idea of putting up a slate bath for 
 the servants, as I am a great advocate for the hydropathic system, andthimc 
 there is nothing like cleanliness for health : as it will not cost much, I shad 
 do so, and place it under the ironing board. This is my new washing- 
 machine, and this the drying machine, which I had made after my own 
 design. This is the ironing stove, which likewise heats the drying apparatus. 
 
 As you have now descended into the lower regions of my establishment, 
 I must show you the improvements I have made in the kitchen since you 
 were here last. In consequence of the introduction of my new apparatus, or 
 stove, I have entirely done away with the kitchen range ; its place, as you 
 perceive, being closed ; and I have likewise done away with the hot piate 
 and the charcoal stove, which we only used once or twice a-year, and m r s 
 place I have got a gas stove, which is a great economy, anc' the fire in the 
 new stove is left to go out after dinner, and some days is not even lit; ana it 
 is also exceedingly clean, but not having gas near your cottage you cannot 
 adopt it. You see, here is the new stove in the middle ot the kitchen ; it 
 combines a roasting fire, circulating hot water boiler oven, and hot plate, all 
 heated by one fire ; the boiler heats the water at the top of the house for 
 the baths, and which can be laid on into any room ; the advantage is that it 
 gives more room in the kitchen, in being able to walk all round it; there is 
 also different degrees of heat on the hot plate, and room for the bain-marie 
 pan : the smoke goes under the floor into the old chimney It was made for 
 me by Messrs. Bramah and Prestage, of Piccadilly. It is exceedingly 
 novel in appearance, and I feel confident, if known, would come into 
 general use, even from the cottage to the largest establishment; it could 
 be fitted with a steam-boiler if required; and would, I am certain, be 
 most valuable in hotels and taverns : in a cottage the linen could be dne 
 around it without danger Irom fire; and it also cuies smoky c lmneys. 
 Mr. B.’s brother, who, you know, is in the navy, has got one for his vesse , 
 with which he is delighted; there is very little heat arising from it; my 
 kitchen, as you will observe, being small, only twelve by eig teen ee , 
 would be felt; but in order to take off all vapour, I have had made, as you 
 perceive, an opening in the ceiling, from which a pipe passes between e 
 joist to the outside. There is nothing else very novel in the kitchen, being 
 
412 
 
 CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS. 
 
 taken, as you perceive, from the plan of that of the one “At Home,” in 
 Soyer’s Regenerator. There is the small mortar, the dressers are made with 
 drawers and slides, which is a very great improvement, as anything that is 
 dirty is placed upon it, and thus saves the cloth. The rail above contains all 
 the copper stewpans. This other dresser is used for placing the dishes on 
 when sending up the dinner; it has the covers over it, and underneath the 
 dripping-pan, frying-pan, gridiron, so that nothing is hid from the sight, 
 therefore they cannot but be clean. 
 
 Mrs. L .—I perceive it, and a very good system it is, for at home, when I 
 open one of those mysterious closets, I find them full of dirt, broken plates, 
 old towels, and everything that is wanted to be hid from sight. I shall cer¬ 
 tainly make that reform immediately. 
 
 Mrs. B .—There is a little sink with hot and cold water. But this small 
 room is what I call the scullery; it is, as you see, supplied with hot and cold 
 water, and has a sink, in which are washed the plates, dishes, coppers, &c., 
 or anything else, so that all dirt is kept out of the kitchen; and you see this 
 is every bit as clean as the kitchen. We will now go into the little room 
 which I pride myself upon, it is the larder; it is but small, being only ten 
 feet by eight—paved and lined with slate, and the window, which is pro¬ 
 tected by wire, opens to the North. Under the window is the pastry-slab, 
 with ice drawer under that; in this corner is the meat block and table with 
 scales to weigh all that comes into the larder. Here is the safe with a 
 sliding door on pulley, and in which are the vegetable bins, and here is one of 
 Ling’s patent ice-safes. The meat is, as you perceive, hanging from tin 
 hooks: these two boxes I have latterly had made; this one contains 
 powdered herbs of all kinds (Makepeaces), and also essences for confectionery, 
 and as they get empty I have them re-filled at the Italian warehouse; this 
 more especially belongs to the kitchen; and is what I call the housewife’s 
 box. But its contents must at present remain a secret, as I intend to give 
 you a little surprise; they are both absolutely requisite in a house, and it is 
 surprising what a deal of labour and time is saved by having them always 
 ready. 
 
 Here is the week’s file of the tradesmen’s bills; and this is a list of the 
 kitchen stock, which, together with that of china, glass, and linen, is taken 
 every three months.* 
 
 * The following are the Utensils that I use in the kitchen, or, as the French, 
 call it, batterie de cuisine, which I flatter myself to be quite complete:— 
 8 copper stewpans, two larger ones, holding one gallon and a half, and the 
 next one gallon, the others smaller by degrees to one pint; 1 oval fish-kettle, 
 holding about one gallon and a half, but if by chance I have a turbot, I 
 borrow a kettle from the fishmonger; 1 middle-sized braising-pan; 1 pre¬ 
 serving-pan ; 1 round bowl for beating whites of eggs; 2 saute-pans; 1 
 omelette-pan; 1 frying-pan; 1 bain-marie; 6 saucepans for the sauce; 1 
 
413 
 
 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 When I was first married and commencing business, onr means were 
 
 limited: the following was our system of living 
 
 Sunday's Dinner— Roast Beef, Potatoes, Greens, and Yorkshire Pudding. 
 
 Monday .—Hashed Beef and Potatoes. . 
 
 Tuesday. _Broiled Beef and Bones, Vegetables, and Spotted Dick Pudding. 
 
 Wednesday— Fish, if cheap, Chops, and Vegetables. 
 
 Thursday .—Boiled Pork, Peas Pudding, and Greens. 
 
 Friday .—Peas Soup, remains of Pork. 
 
 Saturday .—Stewed Steak with Suet Dumpling. 
 
 middle-sized tin pie-mould; 2 tm jelly-moulds; 1 tm flanc-mould for fi o, 
 
 1 freezing-pot, with every requisite; 2 baking-sheets; 1 gridiron, 1 small 
 salamander; 1 colander-spoon; 1 bottle-jack; 2 spits; 1 dripping-pan, 1 
 screen; 1 sugar-pan; 2 soup-ladles; 8 copper-spoons, 2 of them l colanders; 
 
 2 wire baskets; 1 wire sieve; 2 hair sieves; 24 tartlet-pans; 2 tammies, 1 
 iellv-bao-; 12 wooden spoons; 2 paste-brushes; 1 pair of scissors; 2 kitchen 
 knives;° 6 larding-needles; 1 packing-needle; 1 box of vegetable-cutters; 1 
 box of paste-cutters; 1 meat-saw; 1 cutlet chopper; _ 1 meat chopper; 6 meat 
 hooks tinned; 1 rolling-pin; 8 kitchen basins; 6 china pie-dishes; 6 ea ^ ien 
 bowls’for soups and gravies; 4 kitchen table-cloths; IS rubbers; l_fisi 
 
 nankins; 6 pudding-cloths; 4 round towels. , ,. 
 
 These utensils, no doubt, appear very numerous but, at the same time, 
 they are no more than are required, and it is only the first nine articles whidr 
 are rather expensive; the others can be had at the cost of a few shillings. 
 
 The linen I place in the presses every week myself, and keep an exact 
 account of it, for it is only by so doing that I keep so small a quantity m use 
 I have-12 pairs of sheets; 10 ditto pillow-cases; 3 dozen of napkins; 2 
 dozen and a half of various-sized table-cloths; including breakfast, dinner, 
 &c • 6 servants’ table-cloths; 3 dozen towels; 6 round towels; 3 dozen 
 kitchen rubbers; 2 dozen napkins for fish, vegetables, and fruits; 6 pudding- 
 cloths- 2 dozen damask d’oylies; 1 dozen Berlin wool ditto. I also have 
 occasionally in the wash the cover of the carpet the anti-macassars, which I 
 have knitted at my leisure, and the netted window curtains. Of glass and 
 china, I have the following; they are counted every month, and the broken 
 ones replaced:—3 dozen wane-glasses; 2 dozen champagne ditto, ^ dozen 
 claret dfrto • 3 dozen goblets ; 6 water caraffes; 6 decanters; 1 liqueur-stand; 
 121iaueur-dasses- 2 glass jugs; 1 celery-glass; 1 trifle-bowl; 8 dessert-dishes. 
 Chtoa 1 fuil dtone? seriicej 1 common set for kitchen; 1 common tea 
 service for kitchen; 1 good tea service ; 1 breakfast service, 1 good desser 
 
 Se The 6 following is my list of plate :-3 dozen of prongs; 2 ditto of table¬ 
 spoons; 1 and a half ditto of dessert-spoons; 1 and a half ditto of dessert- 
 forks; 2 ditto of tea-spoons ; 6 salt-spoons ; 1 cheese knife, 4 butter v , 
 1 asparagus-tongs; 2 sugar-tongs; 2 soup-ladies; 4 sauce ladlesi; - gravy 
 spoons; 2 sugar-ladles; 2 salvers; 1 bread-basket; 4 candlesticks, 1 hot* 
 water dish for haunch of mutton. 
 
 / 
 
414 
 
 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 The Sunday’s dinner I used to vary; one time Beef, another Mutton, 
 another Pork or Veal, and sometimes a Baked Sucking Pig; our living then, 
 including a good Breakfast and Tea, cost us about 32s. per week for sis 
 persons. 
 
 In case we had a few friends, we used to make an addition by having Fish, 
 Leg of Mutton, Roast Fowls, Pickled Pork, and Peas Pudding, with a Mould 
 Pudding, Fruit Tart, and a little dessert. 1 
 
 This was for the first two years; our means and business then increasing, 
 and having the three young men to dine with us, we were of course obliged 
 to increase our expenditure, and to alter our mode of living, besides which I 
 had accompanied Mr. B. to France, where my culinary ideas received a great 
 improvement. 
 
 The following is the plan we then adopted:— 
 
 Sunday. —Pot-au-Feu, Fish—Haunch of Mutton, or a quarter of Lamb, or 
 other good joint—Two Vegetables—Pastry and a Fruit Pudding— 
 A little Dessert. 
 
 Monday. —Vermicelli Soup made from the Pot-au-Feu of the day previous— 
 The Bouilli of the Pot-au-Feu—Remains of the Mutton—Two 
 Vegetables—Fruit Tart. 
 
 Tuesday. —Fish—Shoulder of Veal stuffed—Roast Pigeons, or Leveret or 
 Curiy—Two Vegetables—Apples with Rice, and light Pastry. 
 Wednesday. —Spring Soup — Roast Fowls, Remains of Veal minced, and 
 poached Eggs—Two Vegetables—Rowley Powley Pudding. 
 Thursday .— Roast Beef — Remains of Fowl — Two Vegetables — Sweet Omelet. 
 Friday. —Fish—Shoulder of Lamb—Miroton of Beef—Two Vegetables— 
 Baked Pudding. 
 
 Saturday. —Mutton Broth—Boiled Neck of Mutton—Liver and Bacon—Two 
 Vegetables—Currant Pudding. 
 
 Our parties then, when we had them, never consisted of more than ten. 
 We had: Julienne Soup—Fish—A Quarter of Lamb—Vegetables, Cutlets 
 —Vegetables, Bacon and Beans—Boiled Turkey—Pheasant—Jelly or Cream 
 —Pastry—Lobster Salad—Omelet or Souffle—Dessert, &c. 
 
 At present, though the number of our establishment is not greater, yet the 
 style and manner of our living have changed. We dine alone, except when 
 Mr. B. invites somebody to dine with him, which is most generally the case; 
 our daily bill of fare consists of something like the following: 
 
 One Soup or Fish, generally alternate—One Remove, either Joint or 
 Poultry—One Entree—Two Vegetables—Pudding or Tart—A little Dessert. 
 
 This may seem a great deal for two persons; but when you remember that 
 we almost invariably have one or two to dine with us, and the remains ar« 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 415 
 
 required for the breakfast, lunch, nursery and servants’ dinners, you will per¬ 
 ceive that the dinner is the principal expense of the establishment, by which 
 means you are enabled to display more liberality to your guests, and live in 
 greater comfort without waste. Our parties at present, to many of which you 
 have frequently been, and therefore know, vary according to the season: here 
 are a few bills of fare of them ; the following is one for twelve persons :— 
 One soup, say Puree of Artichokes—One Fish, Cod Slices in Oyster Sauce 
 —Remove with Smelts or White Bait. 
 
 Removes. —Saddle of Mutton—Turkey in Celery Sauce. 
 
 Two Entrees. —Cutlets & la Proven$ale—Sweetbreads larded in any White 
 Sauce. 
 
 Two Vegetables. —Greens—Kale—Potatoes on the Sideboard. 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Two Roasts —Partridges—Wild Ducks. 
 
 Jelly of Fruit—Cheesecakes—Meringue a la Creme—Vegetable 
 
 —French Salad on the Sideboard. 
 
 Removes.—Ice Pudding—Beignet Souffle. 
 
 Dessert of eleven dishes. 
 
 The following is one for a birthday party, which generally consists of 
 twenty persons:— 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Two Soups—Two Fish. 
 
 Removes. —Haunch of Mutton—Boiled Capons a l’Ecarlate. 
 
 Flanes. —Fricandeau of Veal—Currie of Fowl. 
 
 Entrees. _Fillets of Beef, sauce Tomate—Cutlets Soubise—Oyster Patties, or 
 
 Little Vol-au-Vent; Croquettes of Veal or Fowl.* 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 WildDucks—Guinea Fowl larded—Charlotte Russe—Punch Jelly 
 Crusts of Fruit—Plane Meringue—Apple with Rice—Scolloped 
 Oysters—Mayonnaise of Fowl—Sea Kale or Asparagus. 
 Removes. —Turban of Conde Glacee—Cheese Souffle a la Vanille. 
 
 Dessert of nineteen dishes. 
 
 The bills of fare for our small evening parties, say thirty persons, are as 
 follows ; everything is cold, although I know that the fashion has been pro¬ 
 gressing towards having hot removes. 
 
 Our table on those occasions is, as you know, in the form of a horseshoe, 
 which, in my opinion, is the most sociable after that of a round one, and 
 upon the sociability of the supper depends in a great measure the success of 
 the party. In the centre, and at the head of the table, I place a large Gror.se- 
 
 * These should be served on dishes with a napkin. 
 
416 
 
 BILLS OF FARE, 
 
 pie the same as Nos. 530, 654, of which, by my recommendation, everybody 
 partakes; I then on each of the wings have Fowls, Lobster Salads, May on- 
 naises of Fowl, Ham, Tongue, cut in slices, and dished over parsley, orna¬ 
 mented with Aspic jelly; and on the sideboard I have a fine piece of Sirloin 
 of beef, plain roasted, or an Aitch-bone of Beef, or Fillet of Veal. Should 
 there be no game, I have a Turkey or Fowls en Galantine, instead of the 
 Grouse-pie, or if game is plentiful, I have less poultry, and add roast Pheasants 
 —mind, not fowls with black legs larded, and a pheasant’s tail put to them, 
 but real ones,—or Partridges or Grouse, or a fine Salad of Game. 
 
 With the Sweets I generally place about twelve—four on each table, that 
 is, 4 Jellies, 2 Creams, 2 Bavaroises, 4 Iced Cabinet Puddings, and 4 Raised 
 Dishes of small pastry, all of which are artistically disposed upon the table. 
 
 The fruits are likewise placed on the table; they consist of simple Compotes, 
 6 of various kinds and 6 of Dried Fruit, Biscuits, Wafers, and Cossacks, which 
 last are getting much out of fashion, but are very amusing. 
 
 The following is the bill of fare for Mr. B.’s Birthday Party, for which he 
 allows me £15, with which I find everything in the shape of refreshments, 
 with the exception of wine ? it is 
 
 One Raised Pie—Two Mayonnaises of Fowl—Two Lobster Salads—One Piece of Roast 
 Beef—Four Dishes of Fowl—Two Dishes of Pheasant—Four Dishes of Tongue—Four 
 Dishes of Ham—Four Jellies with Fruit—Two Creams with Noyeau—Two Flancs with 
 Apple Meringue—Two Iced Cabinet Puddings—Two Puddings a la Eloise—Six Various 
 Pastry—Eight Various Compotes—Four Pieces Montees in China with Bonbons, Cos¬ 
 sacks, &c.—Four of Fruit, as Pears, Grapes, &c.—Four of Dried Fruit, &c.—Four of 
 Biscuits, &c. 
 
 This perhaps may appear extravagant, but we always have them, some 
 country friends stopping a few days with us, so that I manage to make the 
 best of everything, and make my week’s account look very well. We some¬ 
 times have as many as sixty on an evening. 
 
 Our Children’s Parties are as follow, there are generally about 50 present: 
 
 16 Dishes of Sandwiches. 4 Dishes of Lamb. 4 Dishes of Ham. 
 
 4 do. of Slices of Beef. 4 do. of Tongue. 6 do. of Fowls, 
 
 10 Dishes of Slices of Galantine of Veal. 1 Dish of Dressed Beef. 
 
 24 Dishes of Various Pastry, Custards, Jellies, Bonbons, &c. 
 
 But I remember when in business, on those occasions we only used to have 
 a large quantity of Sandwiches and Patties, and used to amuse the children 
 by labelling the Dishes as Sandwiches of Peacock’s Tongues, Patties of 
 Partridges’ Eyes, See., and also a large quantity of plain Sweets; and at that 
 period Mr. B’s birthday party was not so extensive or recherche as at present. 
 It consisted of something like the following: 
 
 A Roast Turkey—2 Dishes of Fowls—1 Ham—2 Pigeon Pies—1 Piece of 
 Boiled Beef—4 Lobsters—4 Salads—4 Jellies—4 Tarts—4 of Preserved 
 Fruit, &c.—4 of Pastry; with about 12 of various kinds of Fruit, &c 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 417 
 
 You will have seen by the previous Bills of Fare that I have not at all 
 encroached upon the high-class cookery, they being selected from the receipts 
 I have given you ; in order that you may see the difference, I inclose the Bill 
 of Fare of a dinner given by — Bass, Esq., M.P., at the Reform Club, the 
 other day, and a copy of yesterday’s Post, containing one given in the country. 
 You will find that the dishes mentioned in these Bills of Fare are not to be 
 found in our receipts. 
 
 Refokm Club. 
 
 7 Juillet, 1849. 
 
 Deux Potages. 
 One Thick Turtle. 
 One Clear Ditto. 
 
 Diner pov/r 18 Personnes. 
 
 Deux Poissons. 
 
 Crimped Salmon, 
 en Matelote Normande. 
 
 Turbot, 
 a la Richelieu. 
 
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 Deux Releves. 
 
 La Hanche de Yenaison aux haricots verts. 
 Les Poulardes en Diademe. 
 
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 Six Entrees. 
 
 Vol-au-Vent de Foies gras a la Talleyrand. 
 Cotelettes d’Agneau demi ProVenfale. 
 
 Petits Canetons Canaria aux jeunes legumes glacees. 
 Noix de Yeau demi grasse a la puree de concombres. 
 Ortolans a la Vicomtesse. 
 
 Aiguillettes de petits Poussins a la Banquiere. 
 
 Deux Rotis. 
 
 Les Tw'icey Poults piques et bardes, 
 garnis de Cailles aux feuilles de vignes. 
 
 Les Jeunes Levrauts au jus de groseilles. 
 
 Huit Entremets. 
 
 Gelee a Teau de vie Fianc d’Abricots 
 
 de Dantzick. a Y x ^ff ueu . rs ‘ 
 
 Aspic de Homard Quartiers d Artichaux 
 
 a la Gelee a la Venitienne. 
 
 Petits Pois Gateau Milanais 
 
 a l’Anglaise. au Parmesan. 
 
 Pain de Peches Bombe glacee 
 
 au Noyau. - au Cafe Moka. 
 
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 E E 
 
“ FESTIVITIES AT GRENDON HALL. 
 
 “ A series of festivities are taking place at the seat of Sir George Chetwynd, 
 Bart., Grendon Hall, Atherstone, Warwickshire, to celebrate the christening 
 of Sir George’s infant grandson. The christening took place on Tuesday, at 
 Grendon church, and in the evening a grand dinner was given in celebration 
 of the event, under the able superintendence of M. Alexis Soyer. As the 
 dinner, which was provided for twenty persons, was of a very recherche 
 description, we subjoin the bill of fare. 
 
 Deux Potages. 
 
 One of Clear Turtle. 
 Ditto a la Nivernaise. 
 
 Deux Poissons. 
 Crimped Severn Salmon 
 a la Regence. 
 
 Turbot 
 a la Cardinal. 
 
 La Hanche de Venaison. 
 
 Deux Releves. 
 
 - Deux Poulardes a la Nelson. 
 
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 Six Entrees. 
 
 Les Ortolans a la Vicomtesse. 
 Epigramme d’Agneau a la puree de concombres. 
 Grenadins de Veau aux petits pois. 
 
 Filets de Caneton au jus d’orange. 
 Cotelettes de Mouton a la Proven 5 ale. 
 Turban de Volaille a la Perigord. 
 
 Deux R6tis. 
 
 Cailles bardees aux feuilles de vignes. 
 Gelinottes des Ardennes. 
 
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 Huit Entremets 
 Turban de Meringues 
 aux Pistaches. 
 
 Galantine 
 a la Voliere. 
 
 Vegetable Marrow 
 a la Bechamel. 
 
 Bavaroise Mousseuse 
 
 a l’Ananas. - 
 
 Pain de Fruit 
 aux Peches. 
 
 Crofitades d’Artichaux 
 a l’lndienne. 
 
 Miroton de Homard 
 a la Gelee. 
 
 Blanche Creme 
 au Marasquin. 
 
 I ces * Deux Releves St. James’s 
 
 Pine Apple Hure de Sanglier en surprise glace Cake, 
 
 a la Vanille. the first 
 
 Strawberry. Petits Biscuits souffles a la Creme, ever made. 
 
 “The company at dinner included the Marquis and Marchioness of Downshire, 
 and the Dowager Marchioness, Lord and Lady Howe, Mr. and Lady Charlotte 
 Chetwynd, Lord Sandys, Mr. and Mrs. Dugdale, Mr. and Mrs. Hudson, of 
 Cheswardine Hall, Shropshire; Mr. and Mrs. Grimes, Mr. W. H. Chetwynd, 
 the Rev. Henry and Mrs. Hanmer, and other relations of the family. 
 
 After dinner M. Soyer had the honour of presenting the youthful heir the 
 preof copy of his new work on cookery.” 
 
 Morning Post, July 26, 1849. 
 
419 
 
 THE BACHELOR’S DINNER. 
 
 LETTER No. XXIII. 
 
 Dear Eloise, —Since our little labours first went to press, I have received 
 several kind notes from various persons requiring information on various 
 points. To give all the information sought would make this volume double 
 the size; but amongst others, there is a very polite one from a young 
 bachelor, who states that finding we have so well described a dinner party 
 as it ought to be, with ladies, he should like to know how one ought to be 
 managed when gentlemen only are present, he being a young gentleman, 
 and having no female relatives and acquaintances—a class which, he adds, 
 is, unfortunately, numerous in England—and that it would be a boon for 
 them to receive some information on the subject. I declare, my dear 
 Eloise, that the style of his writing is so graceful and pleasing, that I should, 
 if possible, like to gratify his wish.—Your ever grateful pupil, 
 
 Hortense. 
 
 LETTER No. XXIV. 
 
 My dear Hortense, —Our labours will never cease, if we are to answer all 
 the questions and correspondence submitted to us ; but as you seem to have 
 a fancy for this young bachelor, we will endeavour to gratify his wish, 
 although I assure you it is what we ought not to do, for I cannot conceive 
 why men wish to dine together without the company of ladies. Our friend 
 M. Soyer, in his Gastronomic Regenerator, has very justly stated that a 
 gastronomic reunion without ladies appeared to his eyes “a flower-bed 
 without flowers, an ocean without waves, a vessel without sails;” and I 
 think it is bad taste in us ladies to assist these bachelors to enjoy their 
 entertainments better than at present, without us; and if I agree to your 
 request, it is with the hope that in following our counsel, they will find their 
 dinners improved, and thus see the necessity of following it still further, by 
 admitting ladies to their banquets. 
 
 I can well imagine that some men enjoy the science of eating better when 
 ladies are not present than when they are; but, as I said in my former 
 letter, the dinner ought only to be the means of enjoyment, and not the 
 act. But still, when men of wit and talent meet together around a table, 
 upon which the viands are well chosen and artistically prepared, I can 
 imagine that the mind of man is more amiably disposed than in ordinary 
 timae, and ready to impart the talent which he possesses in bright corrus- 
 cations of wit or new flights of genius to those around him. And, perhaps, 
 after all, we ladies are not such great losers as we might at first imagine ; 
 although we do not immediately enjoy the wit and talent thus improvisatised, 
 
 E E 2 
 
420 
 
 THE BACHELOR’S DINNER. 
 
 yet we may receive it second-hand ; as an instance, there is Mrs.-, she 
 
 knows the sayings and doings of Mr.-, the witty member of her 
 
 husband’s club, just as if she was a member herself. 
 
 Now for the point. What ought a bachelor’s dinner to be ? In the first 
 place, the number of guests ought not to consist of more than eight, with the 
 table nicely arranged and set out, with all that is required in its proper place, 
 napkins nicely folded, glasses of unrivalled crystal, and the groom of ilie 
 chamber in his last new attire, assisted by one more au fait in the matter, 
 with the lights nicely disposed, and the room an agreeable temperature,— 
 say 63°. 
 
 The guests all seated, with good appetites, and six delicate oysters upon the 
 plate before each of them, and a few hors-d’oeuvres, such as a small dish 
 of sardines, some slices of Lyons sausages, a little cavaire on toast, and two 
 bottles of Chablis. This is an excellent beginning: it does not stop the 
 appetite, and merely clears the road. Some persons go too long without 
 eating, and the moment they begin, eat with an avidity which spoils their 
 taste for the after part of the dinner, and during which time the whole mind 
 is absorbed upon the plate before them, and until they are satisfied, no 
 words escape their lips, and when at last they come forth, they do so with a 
 heaviness and dulness which belongs not to the person who utters them, but 
 to the inartistic manner of eating. Some of the greatest wits, from going 
 too long without eating previous to dinner, become the dullest guests ; 
 whilst some, who from want of thought thus begin their meal, find themselves, 
 before dessert is on the table, in the arms of Morpheus, instead of enjoying 
 the gifts of Bacchus. 
 
 The pleasure of eating requires an appetite, but the pleasures of the table 
 require that the appetite should not be appeased until it is time to arise 
 from it. The mind should never give way to any great intensity of feeling, 
 no ecstasy, no surprise, no transports, which would destroy that equilibrium 
 which is so requisite for digestion. 
 
 If artistically partaken of, at the end of the repast the mind becomes 
 exhilarated, the brain is refreshed, the physiognomy opens, the colour rises, 
 the eyes become brilliant, and a warmth spreads over the whole body; the 
 imagination glows, and wit sparkles and overflows, whereas, on the contrary, 
 the mind becomes dull, the eyes heavy, and the body shuddering with cold. 
 
 The dinner having thus began with six oysters, a large glass of Chablis, 
 or, if preferred, White Hermitage, or even Moselle, the soup is then placed 
 upon the table. This ought to be of a light kind, and should turtle be pre¬ 
 ferred, it ought to be light and transparent. With the soup, a glass of 
 Sherry or Madeira is the best accompaniment. At the same time as the 
 soup is placed upon the table, so are the fish, the sauce, and the potatoes on 
 the sideboard. The fish, if boiled, should be accompanied by Hock or 
 white Burgundy, if baked or stewed, with Claret of a light kind. 
 
THE BACHELOR’S DINNER. 
 
 421 
 
 The next course should consist of a boiled and roast Remove and two 
 Entrees. To those who know artistically how to eat a dinner, it may appear 
 strange when I tell them that I have known those who have considered 
 themselves gourmets commence this course with the Entrees. Ihe plan 
 which ought to be followed is to begin with the boiled, and if your appetite 
 is good, to slightly touch the roast, partaking of wines according to the 
 nature of the dish ; for instance, boiled poultry with oyster sauce, return to 
 Chablis ; lamb, with caper sauce, to Hock or Moselle; roast mutton, light 
 Claret; roast beef, Sherry or Madeira. The two substantiate having been dis¬ 
 posed of, the palate has now arrived at that degree of perfection (supposing 
 the wines partaken of to have been good of their kind, for nothing destroys 
 the reputation of a good dinner more than bad wines), the art of the cook as 
 displayed in his Entrees now engages the attention of the guests. These 
 Entrees should be as different as possible, and also differ from the roast and 
 boiled. With the Entrees, whatever their nature, it is generally the custom to 
 partake of Champagne. This, when ladies are at the table, I do not object 
 to, as they are not supposed to be professors in the science of eating, but 
 with the real epicure it is a sin I cannot pardon. The wine to be partaken 
 of depends upon the nature of the Entree, but should never be of that 
 luscious description as to overpower that delightful sensation of taste pro¬ 
 duced by the “plat.” 
 
 These having been removed, and their places occupied by two dishes o 
 nicely roasted game and four Entremets, as, for instance, woodcocks an 
 pheasants, or even a fine larded capon and wild fowl, and one savory, one 
 vegetable, and two sweets as Entremets. With the roasts I prefer Claret 
 or red Burgundy ) with the Entremets may be served the Champagne. 
 
 These Entremets should display the skill of the preparer, not in a way 
 that anything about them cannot be partaken of, but that what they are 
 made of may delight the sight as well as the taste. The roast should be re¬ 
 moved with two dishes, containing either a souffle, a pudding, or a Charlotte, 
 and a Nesselrode pudding, or something of that nature. Ihese being dis¬ 
 posed of, I would have the dessert placed upon the table, with the cheese 
 handed round, and at the same time a loving cup, or if that is not to be 
 obtained, a tankard full of the same liquid. Port wine may be partaken of 
 with the dessert. The plates should be changed as often as required, and 
 not left, as at present, to receive a collection of orange and apple peel and 
 other refuse. During the time this is being partaken of—say twenty 
 minutes to half an hour, or even longer, so much depending upon the 
 Amphitryon and his guests—the coffee ought to be introduced, and with 
 a chasse cafe the table is cleared, or the guests go into the drawing-room, 
 should the unhappy bachelor happen to have one, and the remainder of 
 the evening may be passed according to the disposition and taste of the 
 party, such as music, cards, &c. ; and I am afraid the enjoyment of the 
 evening would not be complete without cigars. 
 
422 
 
 CHO-CA. 
 
 Such, Hortense, is my humble opinion of what a bachelor’s party should, 
 be, for in these enlightened times it is not drinking to excess that constitutes- 
 the enjoyment of society, and a young man who gets inebriated is one to be 
 shunned ; so different from what it was some forty years since, when a four- 
 bottle man was one to be looked up to and followed. 
 
 A NEW ALIMENT. 
 
 LETTER XXV. 
 
 Bifrons Villa. 
 
 Here, dear Eloise, is an entirely new aliment, which has never yet been 
 introduced into this country, A semi-epicure of our acquaintance, on return¬ 
 ing from his visit to the National Guard of France, presented me with a 
 pound of it, which he had purchased in Paris; but even there, said he, it is 
 almost in its infancy: you may fancy, if I were not anxious of making an 
 immediate trial of it; but before I give you the receipt how to use it, let 
 me tell you I have found it most delicious. Mr. B. has not yet tasted it, 
 being for a week in the country, but I am confident he will like it, especially 
 for breakfast: but the puzzle is, after my pound is used, how we are to get 
 more 1 Time, I suppose, will teach us. It appears that we are indebted for 
 it to a celebrated French gentleman, M. le Docteur Lamolte, the inventor of 
 the electric light, who ingeniously, though oddly, named it Cho-ca, being a 
 scientific composition of chocolat and cafe, the alliance of which balancing 
 admirably their excellence and virtue, and partly correcting their evils, the 
 first being rather irritable, the second heavy. But I think, if my recollection 
 serves me rightly, the idea of this compound must have originated from that 
 great French philosopher, M. de Voltaire, who constantly, for his breakfast, 
 partook of half cafe-au-lait and half chocolate, which were served at the same 
 time in separate vessels in a boiling state, and poured from each slowly, about 
 eighteen inches in elevation from his cup, which, he said, made it extremely 
 light and digestible. 
 
 Years after, that still more extraordinary man, Napoleon Bonaparte, be¬ 
 came so partial to it, that he made a constant use of it, and it has often been 
 remarked by those who surrounded his person, that after the great excite¬ 
 ment and fatigue of a battle, he has often partaken of two or three cups, 
 which seemed to restore all the strength and energy which used to charac¬ 
 terise that great man; on ordinary occasions one cup would suffice him, but 
 served more a la militaire, not being poured so scientifically as did the 
 Femaise philosopher. 
 
CHO-CA. 
 
 423 
 
 The approval of this mixed beverage by two such eminent characters 
 speaks volumes in favour of the Cho-ca, which ought to be immediately intro¬ 
 duced in England. It will also, no doubt, interest you to learn that the first 
 cup of coffee ever introduced in Europe was made and presented to 
 Louis XIV., at his magnificent palace of Versailles, by the Ambassador irom 
 the Sublime Porte in the year 1664, when the noble potentate, whose palate 
 was as delicate as he was himself great, pronounced it excellent; and imme¬ 
 diately perceived the immense advantage it would be to introduce sue a 
 delicacy into France as food, which a short time after took place, and was 
 very successfully received there ; also the chocolate, which is made from cacao, 
 was first introduced to the Cardinal Mazarin, who having partook of the first 
 cup like Louis XIV. did of the coffee, and not a worse judge than his illus¬ 
 trious master, remunerated with a handsome reward its inventor. It is muc 
 to be regretted that such interesting and useful subjects have never yet 
 attracted the attention of our great Painters, instead of continually tracing 
 on innumerable yards of canvas the horrors of war, the destruction of a fleet 
 by fire and water, the plague, the storm, the earthquake, or an eruption and 
 destruction of a city by an avalanche or an inundation; if we cannot do 
 without those painful historical reminiscences, why not add to those mournful 
 collections a group of Louis XIV. and his court of Versailles, where he, 
 magnificently dressed, was receiving from the hands of the said Pacha, not a 
 cup of coffee, but a branch of that plant covered with its precious berries ; 
 and why not also, as a pendant, Mazarin surrounded by his satellites, taking 
 the first cup of chocolate; or the characteristic Voltaire pouring a cup of 
 Cho-ca to Frederic the Great in his tent on the field of Potsdam ? These 
 subjects seem to have been entirely neglected in being immortalised on can¬ 
 vas—why ? because they have never done harm or evil to any one ; but, on 
 the contrary, have, are, and ever will prove to be, among the greatest boons 
 ever conferred upon humanity : it would also engrave in our minds, as well 
 as in our history, to what mortals we are indebted for the importation and 
 introduction of such important productions, which daily constitute a part of 
 our comforts, and have conferred an everlasting benefit on mankind ; but, as 
 usual, dear Eloise, you will no doubt reproach me for having so much enthu¬ 
 siasm ; however, as on this subject you have been tolerably quiet lately, I 
 not only here inclose you the receipt, but also two of the thin round cakes of 
 this new aliment, the Cho-ca, which will produce two cups by making it as 
 
 follows:— 
 
 959. CHO-CA.—Scrape or grate it ; put a pint of milk in a 
 stewpan or chocolate pot, and place it on the fire, \\it two 
 ounces of sugar; boil it, put the Cho-ca in it, and stir it well 
 for two minutes, and serve. 
 
424 
 
 ON CARVING. 
 
 You reproach me for not having said a word about carving ; I have not 
 done so, as I think that is an accomplishment which our sex need not study, 
 but at the same time it is well to know a little of it. It is rather difficult to 
 give you a correct description without drawings, but a few general remarks 
 may be useful. 
 
 Cut Beef, Yeal, Ham, Tongue, and Breasts of Poultry, with a sharp knife, 
 very thin ; Mutton, Lamb, and Pork rather thicker. 
 
 Never rise from your seat to carve ; never cut across the grain of the meat, 
 that is, not across the ribs of beef, as I have seen some persons do, and 
 Mr. B. tells me is often done at clubs, but it is only those do so who do not 
 know how to carve or appreciate the true flavour of the meat. 
 
 Never place a fork through the back of a fowl, in order to carve the leg 
 and wings, but run the knife gently down each side the breast, detaching the 
 leg and wing at the same time, which is greatly facilitated by the use of the 
 Tendon Separator—one of which I purchased at Bramah’s, in Piccadilly ; it 
 is the greatest boon ever conferred on a bad carver : the directions for using 
 it are given with it. If it was more generally used, there would be no more 
 birds flying across the table in the faces of guests ; no more turkeys deposited 
 in a lady’s or gentleman’s lap ; no more splashing of gravy to spoil satin 
 dresses ; but all would be divided with the greatest facility, and in the most 
 elegant manner, and the poultry would look much better at table. 
 
 Never cut up the body of poultry at table, that should always be left; but 
 game should be cut up, as many epicures prefer the backbone. For a sirloin 
 of beef, the under part of the loin should always be cut when hot, and the 
 upper part cut straight from the backbone towards the outside of the ribs; by 
 this plan you will not spoil the appearance of the joint. 
 
 Ribs of Beef should be carved in the same way, cutting thin and slanting. 
 
 Round of Beef: cut a slice half an inch thick from the outside, and then 
 carve thin slices, with a little fat. 
 
 Aitch-bone, the same. 
 
 Fillet of Yeal, the same. 
 
 Loin of Yeal, carve as the Sirloin of Beef, serving some of the kidney and 
 fat to each person. 
 
 Shoulder of Yeal; begin from the knuckle, cut thin and slanting. 
 
 Saddle of Mutton will, if properly carved, serve a great many persons; 
 instead of cutting a long slice the whole length, put your knife under the 
 meat and cut it away from the bone, then cut it like thin chops, serving lean 
 and fat together ; according to the usual plan, a saddle ot mutton will serve 
 
THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE. 
 
 425 
 
 but few people, and the flavour of the meat is not so good as when served 
 this way. 
 
 Necks and Loins: the bones should be severed by a small meat saw, and 
 not a chopper, and the bone cut through when serving, and carve slanting. 
 
 Haunches are usually carved by making a cut near the knuckle, and cutting 
 a slice from that through the loin ; but by a plan I have adopted, I find that 
 the meat eats better, and the joint goes farther. I carve it like the leg and 
 saddle—that is, I cut a slice out of the leg part and a slice from the loin, and 
 serve together. This is more economical, but would not do for venison. 
 
 Lamb.—For Leg and Shoulders, proceed as for Mutton, The ribs, when 
 well prepared and the bones properly separated, carve into cutlets, and serve 
 with a piece of the brisket. 
 
 Quarter of Lamb : the ribs should be sawed through, and the bones dis¬ 
 jointed previous to cooking. The shoulder should be then nicely removed, 
 the seasoning added ; then divide the ribs and serve one part of the brisket 
 to each person. 
 
 Pork : proceed like the Mutton. 
 
 In carving a Ham, remove a thick slice, of about one inch, flat cut slant- 
 ways from the knuckle-end—a Tongue, begin three inches from the tip, and 
 cut thin slanting slices. 
 
 LETTER No. XXVI. 
 
 THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE. 
 
 My dear Eloise, —Having now arrived at the conclusion of our labours, 
 during which you have in many instances thought me rather severe, and 
 perhaps too exigeant in my remarks, especially about the selection, pre¬ 
 paration, and cooking of food in general, which even to the last I must main¬ 
 tain, that for want of judgment and a little care, the greatest part of the 
 nutrition of our aliments is often destroyed, which constitutes a considerable 
 waste, being of no good to any one, but an evil to everybody ; and when you 
 consider the monstrous quantity of food our fragile bodies consume in this 
 sublunary sphere during the course of our life, the truth of my observation 
 will be more apparent, and make you agree with me that in every instance 
 people ought really to devote more time, care, and personal attention to their 
 daily subsistence, it being the most expensive department through life of 
 human luxury. I shall, for example, give you a slight and correct idea of it, 
 which I am confident you never before conceived. For this I shall propose 
 to take seventy years of the life of an epicure, beyond which age many ol 
 that class of “bon vivants” arrive, and even above eighty, still in the full 
 enjoyment of degustation, &c. (for example, Talleyrand, Cambaceres, Lord 
 Sefton, &c.); if the first of the said epicures, when entering on the tenth 
 
426 
 
 THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE. 
 
 spring of his extraordinary career, had been placed on an eminence, say, the 
 top of Primrose hill, and had had exhibited before his infantine eyes the 
 enormous quantity of food his then insignificant person would destroy before 
 he attained his seven ty-first year,—first, he would believe it must be a 
 delusion; then, secondly, he would inquire where the money could come 
 from to purchase so much luxurious extravagance? But here I shall leave 
 the pecuniary expenses on one side, which a man of wealth can easily sur¬ 
 mount when required. So now, dearest, for the extraordinary fact: imagine 
 on the top of the above-mentioned hill a rushlight of a boy just entering his 
 tenth year, surrounded with the recherche provision and delicacies claimed 
 by his i*ank and wealth, taking merely the medium consumption of his daily 
 meals. By closely calculating, he would be surrounded and gazed at by the 
 following number of quadrupeds, birds, fishes, &c.:—By no less than 30 oxen, 
 200 sheep, 100 calves, 200 lambs, 50 pigs ; in poultry, 1,200 fowls, 300 
 turkeys, 150 geese, 400 ducklings, 263 pigeons ; 1,400 partridges, pheasants, 
 and grouse ; 600 woodcocks and snipes ; 600 wild ducks, widgeon, and teal; 
 450 plovers, ruffes, and reeves; 800 quails, ortolans, and dotterels, and a 
 few guillemots and other foreign birds ; also 500 hares and rabbits, 40 deer, 
 120 Guinea fowl, 10 peacocks, and 360 wild fowl. In the way of fish, 120 
 turbot, 140 salmon, 120 cod, 260 trout, 400 mackerel, 300 whitings, 800 
 soles and slips, 400 flounders, 400 red mullet, 200 eels, 150 haddocks, 400 
 herrings, 5,000 smelts, and some hundred thousand of those delicious silvery 
 whitebait, besides a few hundred species of fresh-water fishes. In shell-fish, 
 20 turtle, 30,000 oysters, 1,500 lobsters or crabs, 300,000 prawns, shrimps, 
 sardines, and anchovies. In the way of fruit, about 500 lbs. of grapes, 
 360 lbs. of pine-apples, 600 peaches, 1,400 apricots, 240 melons, and some 
 hundred thousand plums, greengages, apples, pears, and some millions of 
 cherries, strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, and an abundance 
 of other small fruit, viz., walnuts, chesnuts, dry figs, and plums. In vege¬ 
 tables of all kinds, 5.475 pounds weight, and about 2,434 pounds of butter, 
 684 pounds of cheese, 21,000 eggs, 800 do. plovers’. Of bread, 4^ tons, half 
 a ton of salt and pepper, near 2| tons of sugar ; and. if he had happened to 
 be a covetous boy, he could have formed a fortification or moat round the 
 said hill with the liquids he would have to partake of to facilitate the digestion 
 of the above-named provisions, which would amount to no less than 10,8164- 
 gallons, which may be taken as below:—49 hogsheads of wine, l,368f 
 gallons of beer, 584 gallons of spirits, 342 liqueur, 2,394f gallons of coffee, 
 cocoa, tea, &c., and 304 gallons of milk, 2,736 gallons of water, all of which 
 would actually protect him and his anticipated property from any young 
 thief oi fellow schoolboy, like Alexandre Dumas had protected Dante and his 
 immense treasure from the pirates in his island of Monte Christo. You now, 
 dearest, fancy that I am exaggerating in every way; but to convince you, 
 and to prevent your puzzling your brain to no purpose, I also enclose you a 
 
THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE. 
 
 427 
 
 medium scale of the regular meals of the day, from which I have taken my 
 basis, and in sixty years it amounts to no less than 59 tons 5 cwts., 1 quar. 
 203. lbs. weight of meat, farinaceous food, vegetables, liquids, &c. ; out of 
 which I have named in detail the probable delicacies that would be selected 
 by an epicure through life. But observe that I did not count the first ten 
 years of his life, at the beginning of which he lived upon pap, bread and 
 milk, &c., also a little meat, the expense of which I add to the age from ten 
 to twenty, as no one can really be called an epicure before that age ; it will 
 thus make the expenses more equal as regards the calculation. The following 
 is the list of what I consider his daily meals :— 
 
 Breakfast .—Three quarters of a pint of coffee, four ounces of bread, one 
 ounce of butter, two eggs; or four ounces of meat, or four ounces of fish. 
 
 Lunch .—Two ounces of bread, two ounces of meat, or poultry, or game* 
 two ounces of vegetables, and half a pint of beer or a glass of wine. 
 
 Dinner .—Half a pint of soup, a quarter of a pound of fish, half a pound of 
 meat, a quarter of a pound of poultry, a quarter of a pound of savoury dishes 
 or game, two ounces of vegetables, two ounces of bread, two ounces of pastry 
 or roasts, half an ounce of cheese, a quarter of a pound of fruit, one pint of 
 wine, one glass of liqueur, one cup of coffee or tea ; at night one glass of 
 spirits and water. 
 
 Now that I have given you these important details, perhaps you will give 
 me some little credit for my exaction and severity respecting the attention 
 which ought to be daily paid to the indispensable and useful art of cookery 
 by our middle classes. I shall also observe to you, that those masses of pro¬ 
 visions above described in the expose of sixty years, have been selected, 
 dressed, and served, by scientific hands, every real epicure choosing through 
 life the best cook, and consequently the best of provisions, which, had they 
 have fallen into the hands of inexperienced persons, would very likely have 
 wasted one-third, thereby increasing the expenses, and never giving any real 
 satisfaction to the consumer ; therefore let us act in a small way as becomes 
 us, as the wealthy do according to their incomes ; let every housekeeper 
 devote more time to the study of domestic and practical economy ; and in 
 many instances it will increase their incomes as well as their daily comforts, 
 for as I remarked to you that the pleasures of the table being not only the 
 most expensive part of human luxury, but also the soul, of sociability, 
 they require more attention bestowed upon them than is done at the 
 
 present day. 
 
 Fare you well, 
 
 HORTENSE. 
 

 
 
 
 
 . u-f, ' • 
 
 
 " warn 
 
 • . . • 
 
 
 i . 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 I I 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
INDEX 
 
 Acid .... 
 Aitch-Bone of Beef . 
 A-la-mode Beef 
 Albumen .... 
 Aliment, a New 
 Almond Water . 
 
 Almond Cake, Iced . 
 
 Almond Pudding, White, Iced 
 Anchovies 
 Anchovy Butter 
 Apple Charlotte 
 Compote . 
 
 Dumplings . 
 
 Plane 
 
 Fritters . . • 
 
 Jelly .... 
 Pie .... 
 Pudding . . • 
 
 saute in Butter . • 
 
 Yol-au-Vent . • 
 
 Apples, Baked . 
 and Bread . 
 and Fig Beverage 
 and Rice Pudding 
 with Rice . . . 
 
 with Butter 
 Apricot Compote 
 
 Fritters . . . 
 
 Ice Cream . 
 
 Marmalade . • 
 
 Nougat . • 
 
 Pudding . . 
 
 Arrow-root . • 
 
 Jelly . 
 
 Water 
 Broth . 
 
 Artichokes 
 
 Jerusalem, soup . 
 Asparagus 
 
 with Eggs . 
 
 Aspic of Meat . . . 
 
 Autumn Soup . 
 
 Bacon and Haml 
 Bacon for Breakfast . 
 
 to choose . . . 
 
 to boil . . . 
 
 Baking, on ... 
 Barley Lemonade . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 65 j 
 
 Barley Orangeade 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 46 
 
 176 i 
 
 Water . . . 
 
 
 44 
 
 229, 230 1 
 
 Batter for Fritters 
 
 
 372 
 
 171 ! 
 
 Beans, Broad 
 
 
 327 
 
 422 j 
 
 French 
 
 
 326 
 
 45 j 
 
 a la Maitre-d’Hotel 
 
 
 327 
 
 372 i 
 
 Haricot 
 
 
 32S 
 
 365 ! 
 
 a la Bretonne 
 
 
 328 
 
 144 
 
 Beef, on 
 
 
 171 
 
 170 
 
 Beef, a-la-mode 
 
 229, 230 
 
 349 
 
 Aitch-Bone of . 
 
 
 176 
 
 75, 378 
 
 Brisket of. Salt . 
 
 
 176 
 
 361 
 
 Croquettes of 
 
 
 232 
 
 341 
 
 Choice of . . • 
 
 
 172 
 
 348 
 
 Essence of. . • 
 
 
 38 
 
 386 
 
 Family Salad of 
 
 
 232 
 
 364 
 
 Fillets of. Broiled 
 
 
 230 
 
 362 
 
 Saute 
 
 
 231 
 
 352 
 
 to hang 
 
 
 172 
 
 340 
 
 Hashed . . . 
 
 
 223 
 
 49 
 
 Minced . . . 
 
 
 231 
 
 351 
 
 Miroton . . . 
 
 
 224 
 
 49 
 
 Palates 
 
 
 225 
 
 51 
 
 a la Bretonne . 
 
 
 226 
 
 350 
 
 a l’lndienne 
 
 
 226 
 
 351 
 
 a la Poulette . 
 
 
 226 
 
 378 
 
 a la Maitre-d’Hotel. 
 
 226 
 
 348 
 
 Pickle for, a la Garrick 
 
 
 308 
 
 384 
 
 to pot 
 
 
 177 
 
 385 
 
 Pressed 
 
 
 308 
 
 345 
 
 remains of . 
 
 
 223 
 
 362 
 
 Ribs of 
 
 
 173 
 
 42 
 
 Braised . . 
 
 
 173 
 
 43 
 
 Larded . . 
 
 
 307 
 
 48 
 
 Roasted . 
 
 
 172 
 
 36 
 
 Round of, Salted 
 
 
 175 
 
 326 
 
 cold . 
 
 
 175 
 
 111, 325 
 
 Half-round of, silver side 
 
 
 176 
 
 321 
 
 Salt, remains of . 
 
 
 234 
 
 286 
 
 Salt, Bubble and Squeak 
 
 
 228 
 
 305 
 
 Sirloin of . 
 
 
 172 
 
 118 
 
 Stewed Rump of 
 
 
 174 
 
 16 
 
 Stewed Rump Steak . 
 
 
 229 
 
 ~ 17 
 
 Steak Pudding . * 
 
 
 269 
 
 200 
 
 Spiced 
 
 
 308 
 
 200 
 
 j Beignet Souffle . 
 
 
 347 
 
 69 
 
 1 Beet-root .... 
 
 
 81, 326 
 
 46 
 
 | Beverage, Refreshing 
 
 • 
 
 46, 49 
 
430 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Beverages for Evening Parties 
 
 
 402 
 
 Cake, Cinnamon 
 
 • 
 
 392 
 
 Beyrout Sauce . 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 167 
 
 Cottage 
 
 • 
 
 394 
 
 Bills of Fare 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 413 
 
 El Jtherian Pine Apple 
 
 • 
 
 394 
 
 Biscuit, Souffle . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 369 
 
 Ginger 
 
 • 
 
 392 
 
 Cocoa-Nut 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 391 
 
 Love, or Bola d’Amour 
 
 • 
 
 393 
 
 Cream 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 392 
 
 Pound 
 
 
 391 
 
 Moss . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 391 
 
 Queen’s 
 
 
 391 
 
 Bout . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 392 
 
 Queen Victoria’s 
 
 
 394 
 
 Savoy 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 390 
 
 Rout .... 
 
 
 392 
 
 Wine 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 367 
 
 Savoy, in Moulds 
 
 
 3S9 
 
 Blackberry Pudding 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 363 
 
 Savoy, or Ladies’ Fingers 
 
 • 
 
 390 
 
 Black Game Salad 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 317 
 
 Shrewsbury 
 
 • 
 
 392 
 
 Pudding . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 18 
 
 Sponge . . 
 
 • 
 
 390 
 
 broiled 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 19 
 
 small 
 
 • 
 
 390 
 
 Blancmanger . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 356 
 
 St. James’s 
 
 • 
 
 394 
 
 Bloaters . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 12 
 
 West Indian 
 
 
 394 
 
 Boar’s Head Sauce 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 310 
 
 Calf’s Brains a la Maitre-d’Hotel 
 
 241 
 
 Boiling, on 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 69 
 
 fried 
 
 • 
 
 241 
 
 Boudins of Fowl 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 262 
 
 to prepare . 
 
 • 
 
 187 
 
 Turkey 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 262 
 
 Feet . . 
 
 
 59 
 
 Bones, broiled . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 225 
 
 Feet Jelly . . 
 
 
 353 
 
 Bottoms and Tops, to make 
 
 • 
 
 6 
 
 Head . . . 184 
 
 0D 
 
 00 
 
 rH 
 
 187 
 
 Braising, on 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 70 
 
 Curry 
 
 • 
 
 277 
 
 Braise-Roast Turkey 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 210 
 
 Hashed 
 
 •• 
 
 240 
 
 Boil do. 
 
 
 • 
 
 * 
 
 208 
 
 Hollandaise 
 
 • 
 
 186 
 
 Bread and Milk 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 31 
 
 with Mushrooms 
 
 • 
 
 186 
 
 and Apple 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 351 
 
 with Tomatos 
 
 • 
 
 187 
 
 Breakfast Table 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 1,26 
 
 Heart, roasted . 
 
 • 
 
 238 
 
 Brill, to cook 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 152 
 
 Liver, English fashion 
 
 0 
 
 237 
 
 Broccoli 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 325 
 
 fried 
 
 • 
 
 237 
 
 Broiling . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 73 
 
 sauteed . 
 
 • 
 
 237 
 
 Broth, Arrow-root 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 36 
 
 stewed 
 
 • 
 
 238 
 
 Chicken 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 39 
 
 Sweetbreads . . 
 
 • 
 
 238 
 
 Eel . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 40 
 
 Caper Sauce . . . 
 
 • 
 
 103 
 
 Mutton 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 34 
 
 Capon, Boiled . . . 
 
 • 
 
 213 
 
 Rice . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 36 
 
 and Cresses . . 
 
 • 
 
 290 
 
 French Herb 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 48 
 
 a l’Estragon . . 
 
 • 
 
 213 
 
 Seasoned . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 35 
 
 Pie . ... 
 
 • 
 
 302 
 
 Semoul.na . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 36 
 
 Roast . . . 
 
 • 
 
 213 
 
 Turkey 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 208 
 
 Roast braised 
 
 • 
 
 210 
 
 Various 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 35 
 
 Stewed . . • 
 
 • 
 
 213 
 
 Vermicelli . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 35 
 
 Capilotade of Poultry 
 
 • 
 
 258 
 
 Veal . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 36 
 
 Carp, baked . . . 
 
 • 
 
 155 
 
 Brown Stock 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 106 
 
 Sauce Matelote . . 
 
 • 
 
 155 
 
 Browning . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 106 
 
 Carrot Pudding 
 
 • 
 
 359 
 
 Brioche Rolls, to make 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 7 
 
 with Poulards . . . 
 
 • 
 
 215 
 
 Brussels Sprouts 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 327 
 
 Soup .... 
 
 • 
 
 121 
 
 Bubble and Squeak 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 228 
 
 White . . 
 
 • 
 
 121 
 
 Buns, to make . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 7 
 
 Sauce 
 
 • 
 
 99 
 
 Butter, to make 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 404 
 
 Carving .... 
 
 • 
 
 424 
 
 Anchovy . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 170 
 
 Cauliflower . . . 
 
 0 
 
 325 
 
 Burnt 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 287 
 
 Gratin, with Cheese . 
 
 • 
 
 325 
 
 Lobster 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 170 
 
 Puree, Sauce 
 
 • 
 
 97 
 
 Melted ' . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 164 
 
 Soup . . 
 
 • 
 
 121 
 
 Maitre-d’Hotel 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 170 
 
 Celery . . . . 
 
 • 
 
 324 
 
 Ravigote . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 170 
 
 Charlotte, Apple 
 
 • 
 
 349 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Russe . . . 
 
 • 
 
 356 
 
 Cacao 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 25 
 
 Strawberry . , 
 
 • 
 
 356 
 
 Cake, Almond . 
 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 391 
 
 Chartreuse of Fruit . . 
 
 • 
 
 356 
 
INDEX 
 
 431 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Chartreuse of Fruit with Lemon 
 
 Condiments — Bay, Saffron 
 
 PAGE 
 
 82 
 
 Jelly . 
 
 
 
 365 
 
 Beet - Root, Mushrooms, 
 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 • 
 
 
 346 
 
 Morels, Truffles . 
 
 81 
 
 Lemon 
 
 • 
 
 
 347 
 
 Bouquet, Bouquet Garni, 
 
 
 Maids of Honour 
 
 • 
 
 
 346 
 
 Bain Marie 
 
 86 
 
 Puff 
 
 • 
 
 
 371 
 
 Celery, Borage, Horse¬ 
 
 
 Cheese Souffle . 
 
 • 
 
 
 371 
 
 radish, Chervil, Capers, 
 
 
 Raminole . 
 
 • 
 
 
 371 
 
 Broom Buds, Nastur¬ 
 
 
 Sandwich . 
 
 • 
 
 
 403 
 
 tiums,Barberries,Gher¬ 
 
 80 
 
 to make 
 
 • 
 
 
 404 
 
 kins .... 
 
 Cherry Draught 
 
 • 
 
 
 47 
 
 Curry-Powder, Lemon, the 
 
 
 Compote . 
 
 • 
 
 377, 
 
 378 
 
 Lime, the Citron, Vine¬ 
 
 85 
 
 Marmalade 
 
 • 
 
 
 386 
 
 gar . . 
 
 Omelet . • 
 
 • 
 
 
 347 
 
 Mace, Cayenne, Cinnamon, 
 
 
 Pudding. . • 
 
 • 
 
 
 363 
 
 Cassia, Cassia Buds, 
 
 77 
 
 Vol-au-vent . 
 
 • 
 
 
 339 
 
 Mustard 
 
 Chesnut Pudding 
 
 • 
 
 
 364 
 
 Olive, Arrow-Root, Tapioca, 
 
 
 Chicken, Boiled . 
 
 • 
 
 . 59, 
 
 257 
 
 Sal sop, Sago, Soy, 
 
 84 
 
 Braised 
 
 • 
 
 
 257 
 
 Chetney 
 
 Broth 
 
 • 
 
 . 3S 
 
 , 60 
 
 Onions, Marjoram 
 
 78 
 
 Curry . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 274 
 
 Pepper, Long Pepper 
 
 75 
 
 Italian way 
 
 • 
 
 
 216 
 
 Savory, Basil, Thyme, Pen¬ 
 
 
 Pie ... 
 
 • 
 
 
 266 
 
 nyroyal, Mint, Sage, 
 
 - 
 
 Roast Braised 
 
 • 
 
 210, 
 
 257 
 
 • Parsley, Tarragon, 
 
 79 
 
 Roast, for invalids 
 
 « 
 
 
 59 
 
 Clary, Fennel . 
 
 Spring 
 
 
 
 290 
 
 Conger Eel, Stewed . 
 
 162 
 
 Stewed . 
 
 • 
 
 
 211 
 
 Confectioner’s Paste . 
 
 337 
 
 Chicoree Sauce . 
 
 • 
 
 
 98 
 
 Conversation on Household Affairs 
 
 406 
 
 Choice of Pork . 
 
 • 
 
 
 198 
 
 Compote of Pigeons . 
 
 264 
 
 Cho-ca . . . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 423 
 
 of Fruits . 
 
 375 
 
 Chocolate . ... 
 
 • 
 
 
 25 
 
 Coots, to cook . . . . 
 
 297 
 
 Italian 
 
 • 
 
 
 26 
 
 Cooling Drink .... 
 
 45 
 
 Iceing for Cakes 
 
 • 
 
 
 380 
 
 Lemonade .... 
 
 50 
 
 Ice Cream . 
 
 • 
 
 
 383 
 
 Cow Heels . • 
 
 233 
 
 Choice of Meat . 
 
 • 
 
 
 171 
 
 Crab Curry .... 
 
 278 
 
 Chopping of Herbs . 
 
 • 
 
 
 335 
 
 Cranberry Pie .... 
 
 864 
 
 Chump of Yeal . 
 
 • 
 
 181, 
 
 183 
 
 Cresses with Pullet . . 
 
 290 
 
 Clear Soup 
 
 
 
 109 
 
 Cream, Bohemian Jelly 
 
 355 
 
 Clarify Stock, to . 
 
 • 
 
 
 108 
 
 Clouted .... 
 
 405 
 
 Cock-a-leekie Soup 
 
 • 
 
 
 113 
 
 Coffl e Soufflee . 
 
 369 
 
 Cocoa 
 
 • 
 
 
 26 
 
 Cream, Coffee Ice • . . . 
 
 383 
 
 Nut Biscuits . 
 
 • 
 
 
 391 
 
 Pastry, Saute . . . 
 
 353 
 
 Cod, Boiled 
 
 • 
 
 
 131 
 
 Omelet Soufflee . . . 
 
 369 
 
 with Oysters 
 
 • 
 
 
 131 
 
 Rice Soufflee . . . 
 
 368 
 
 Coffee, on .... - 
 
 • 
 
 
 19 
 
 Sauce .... 
 
 166 
 
 to choose . 
 
 • 
 
 
 20 
 
 with Spinach . . . 
 
 327 
 
 where first used in 
 
 Lon- 
 
 
 Crecy Soup . . • • 
 
 121 
 
 don . 
 
 • 
 
 
 19 
 
 Croquettes of Fowl . - r 
 
 259 
 
 French 
 
 • 
 
 
 22 
 
 Macaroni .... 
 
 352 
 
 White . . • 
 
 • 
 
 
 22 
 
 Rice ..... 
 
 352 
 
 made with a filter 
 
 • 
 
 
 23 
 
 Crumpets, to make . . . 
 
 5 
 
 another way 
 
 • 
 
 
 23 
 
 to toast .... 
 
 4 
 
 Ice Cream . 
 
 • 
 
 
 383 
 
 to serve .... 
 
 4 
 
 Cold Ham 
 
 • 
 
 
 306 
 
 Crusts of Fruit .... 
 
 345 
 
 Condiments, on 
 
 • 
 
 
 74 
 
 with Madeira . • : 
 
 345 
 
 Allspice,. Ginger, 
 
 Cloves, 
 
 
 Cucumbers .... 
 
 326 
 
 Nutmegs . 
 
 
 
 76 
 
 B own Sauce . . . 
 
 92 
 
 Anaiica, Vannilla, 
 
 Sugar, 
 
 
 White Sauce ... 
 
 99 
 
 Orange, Orange-flower, 
 
 
 with Poulards . . • 
 
 216 
 
 Yerjuice 
 
 • 
 
 
 S3 
 
 
 
432 
 
 INDEX 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Curacao Jelly . « 
 
 
 354 
 
 Ducks, on . 
 
 • 
 
 220 
 
 Currant Jelly . 
 
 
 387 
 
 a l’Aubergiste . 
 
 • 
 
 222 
 
 with Omelet 
 
 
 347 
 
 to choose . 
 
 • 
 
 220 
 
 Red, White,& Black for Puddings 363 
 
 Roasted 
 
 • 
 
 220 
 
 and Raspberry Pie 
 
 
 364 
 
 Stewed with Peas 
 
 221, 
 
 262 
 
 Compote 
 
 379 
 
 Turnips . 
 
 221, 
 
 263 
 
 Salad of . 
 
 
 388 
 
 Varieties of 
 
 
 220 
 
 Sweetmeat of 
 
 
 387 
 
 Ducklings, roast 
 
 
 291 
 
 Curry, Beef 
 
 
 275 
 
 Pie .... 
 
 
 302 
 
 Calf’s Head, Feet, and Tai 
 
 277 
 
 Stewed with Turnips . 
 
 • 
 
 221 
 
 Chicken 
 
 
 274 
 
 Remains of 
 
 • 
 
 221 
 
 with Paste 
 
 
 274 
 
 Duck, Wild 
 
 • 
 
 
 Crab • 
 
 
 278 
 
 Hashed 
 
 
 284 
 
 Fillets of Haddock, Sole 
 
 279 
 
 Roasted, with Orange Sauce 
 
 284 
 
 Whiting 
 
 
 279 
 
 Beck .... 
 
 
 293 
 
 Game 
 
 
 280 
 
 Black . , 
 
 9 
 
 294 
 
 Lamb 
 
 
 275 
 
 Broad-billed 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Lamb’s Head, Breast 
 
 of Lamb 276 
 
 Burrough . . . 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Lobster 
 
 
 278 
 
 Canvas Back 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Mutton 
 
 
 275 
 
 Cracker 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Breast of . 
 
 
 276 
 
 Curres, Blue-billed 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Ox Tail 
 
 
 277 
 
 Gray-backed . 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Oyster . • 
 
 
 278 
 
 Douckers . 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Pork . . . 
 
 
 275 
 
 Dowers 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Prawn • . 
 
 
 278 
 
 Eider 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Rabbit . . 
 
 
 274 
 
 Flapper 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Salmon 
 
 
 279 
 
 Gray .... 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Skate . 
 
 
 279 
 
 Golden Eye 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Sauce . . 
 
 
 96 
 
 Great Black and White 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Tripe 
 
 
 277 
 
 Kertlutock. 
 
 « 
 
 293 
 
 Turbot 
 
 
 279 
 
 Longtailed 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Yeal 
 
 
 275 
 
 Morillon 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Breast of . 
 
 
 275 
 
 Mallard . . . 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Custard Pudding 
 
 
 52, 362 
 
 Pintailed . . 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 for Puddings 
 
 
 372 
 
 Scaup . . 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Cutlets a la Victime . 
 
 
 256 
 
 Scopper Bills * 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 en Papillote 
 
 
 251 
 
 Scoter . . . 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Prussian . 
 
 
 255 
 
 Sea Pheasant 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 
 
 
 Sheldrake . 
 
 
 294 
 
 Damson Pie 
 
 
 364 
 
 Shoveller . . . 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Pudding 
 
 
 363 
 
 Red-breasted 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Dartoise Fourree 
 
 
 344 
 
 St. Cuthbert’s 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Deer 
 
 
 202 
 
 Teal Drake 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Red . 
 
 
 202 
 
 Tufted 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Fallow 
 
 
 202 
 
 . Velvet 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Demi-Plum Pudding. 
 
 
 359 
 
 Winter 
 
 • 
 
 293 
 
 Dewberry and Raspberry 
 
 Pie 
 
 364 
 
 
 
 
 Diablotins 
 
 
 371 
 
 Ecarlate of Fowl . 
 
 • 
 
 216 
 
 Dinner, Nursery 
 
 
 29 
 
 Eels, on 
 
 • 
 
 160 
 
 Table . , . 
 
 
 397 
 
 to kill 
 
 • 
 
 160 
 
 D’Office, Paste . 
 
 
 337 
 
 Broth 
 
 • 
 
 40 
 
 Dory, John, to cook . 
 
 
 149 
 
 Fried .... 
 
 • 
 
 161 
 
 Dried Haddock . 
 
 
 12 
 
 Pie .... 
 
 • 
 
 269 
 
 Sprats 
 
 
 14, 144 
 
 Spitchcocked 
 
 • 
 
 161 
 
 Draught, Cherry 
 
 
 47 
 
 Skinned 
 
 • 
 
 160 
 
 Drink, Cooling . . 
 
 
 45 
 
 Stewed 
 
 • 
 
 161 
 
 New . , . 
 
 
 45 
 
 a la Tartare . 
 
 ft 
 
 161 
 
 Strengthening . 
 
 
 47 
 
 Effects of Fish . 
 
 * 
 
 128 
 
 Dry Toast. 
 
 
 3 
 
 Eggs au Beurre 
 
 • 
 
 9 
 
INDEX 
 
 433 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Eggs—Baked . 
 
 • 
 
 
 286 
 
 Fish—Hake 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 132 
 
 with Asparagus 
 
 • 
 
 
 286 
 
 Forked 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 133 
 
 with burnt Butter 
 
 • 
 
 
 287 
 
 Haddock . 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 133 
 
 Hard 
 
 • 
 
 
 9 
 
 Hallibut 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 152 
 
 in Cases 
 
 • 
 
 
 288 
 
 Herrings . 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 142 
 
 with Cheese 
 
 • 
 
 
 287 
 
 Hornfish 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 138 
 
 to choose . 
 
 • 
 
 
 8 
 
 Lamprey . 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 162 
 
 with Green Peas 
 
 • 
 
 
 287 
 
 Ling 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 132 
 
 with Ham 
 
 • 
 
 
 17 
 
 Mackerel . 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 136 
 
 plain Boiled 
 
 • 
 
 
 9 
 
 Maids 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 153 
 
 Poached 
 
 • 
 
 
 9 
 
 Perch 
 
 
 « 
 
 
 158 
 
 Mashed 
 
 • 
 
 
 2S6 
 
 Pike . 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 154 
 
 Meagre 
 
 • 
 
 
 287 
 
 Pilchard 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 144 
 
 with Mushrooms 
 
 • 
 
 
 287 
 
 Plaice 
 
 
 
 
 153 
 
 Sauce 
 
 • 
 
 
 165 
 
 Pollard 
 
 
 
 
 139 
 
 Snow 
 
 • 
 
 
 287 
 
 Red Mullet, or Sur Mullet 139— 
 
 -142 
 
 sur le plat . 
 
 • 
 
 
 10 
 
 Raw Pollock 
 
 
 
 
 139 
 
 and Toast . 
 
 • 
 
 
 10 
 
 Roach 
 
 
 
 
 160 
 
 a la Tripe . 
 
 • 
 
 
 287 
 
 Salads 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 315 
 
 Endive Sauce, or Puree 
 
 • 
 
 
 98 
 
 Salmon 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 130 
 
 Entrees, or Made Dishes 
 
 
 
 223 
 
 Salt , 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 132 
 
 of Game 
 
 
 
 2S0 
 
 Sardines 
 
 
 ♦ 
 
 
 144 
 
 Entremets 
 
 
 300, 
 
 348 
 
 Sauces 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 163 
 
 Epicure, the Septuagenarian 
 
 425 
 
 Scad, or Horse Mackerel 
 
 
 138 
 
 Escalops . 
 
 
 
 318 
 
 Skate 
 
 
 
 
 153 
 
 Escaloped Oysters 
 
 • 
 
 
 319 
 
 Skipper, or Saury 
 
 Pike 
 
 
 13S 
 
 Eschalot Sauce 
 
 • 
 
 
 92 
 
 Smelts 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 145 
 
 Essence of Beef 
 
 • 
 
 
 38 
 
 Soles 
 
 
 • 
 
 149— 
 
 -151 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sprats 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 144 
 
 Fallow Deer . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 202 
 
 Sturgeon . 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 134 
 
 Fennel Sauce . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 164 
 
 Tench 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 158 
 
 .Feet, Lamb’s . . 
 
 • 
 
 . 58, 
 
 250 
 
 Tobacco-pipe 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 138 
 
 Ox . . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 233 
 
 Trout 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 156 
 
 Calf’s . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 59 
 
 Tunny 
 
 
 
 
 135 
 
 .Fish, on . 
 
 • 
 
 
 128 
 
 Turbot 
 
 
 • 
 
 147, 
 
 14S 
 
 Anchovies . 
 
 • 
 
 
 144 
 
 Turtle 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 146 
 
 for Breakfast 
 
 • 
 
 
 11 
 
 White Bait 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 146 
 
 Barbel 
 
 • 
 
 
 160 
 
 Whiting 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 13S 
 
 Basse 
 
 • 
 
 
 135 
 
 Whiting, Pollock, 
 
 or Glassen 
 
 139 
 
 Black Pollock, or Coal 
 
 Fish 
 
 139 
 
 Whiting Pout 
 
 
 
 
 139 
 
 Brill, or Brett 
 
 
 
 152 
 
 Wrasse 
 
 
 
 
 12S 
 
 Bull’s Head, or Miller’s 
 
 Thumb 
 
 160 
 
 Shell—Clams 
 
 
 
 
 318 
 
 Capeling . 
 
 
 
 144 
 
 Cray, or Craw-fish 
 
 
 318 
 
 Carp . 
 
 • 
 
 
 155 
 
 Shell—Crabs 
 
 
 
 
 318 
 
 Char . 
 
 4 
 
 
 160 
 
 Escalops , 
 
 
 
 
 3 IS 
 
 Chub . 
 
 • 
 
 
 160 
 
 Oysters 
 
 
 
 
 318 
 
 Cod . 
 
 
 
 131 
 
 Prawns 
 
 
 
 
 318 
 
 Conger Eel 
 
 
 
 162 
 
 Razor, or Solen 
 
 
 
 
 318 
 
 Dabs and Smear Dabs 
 
 
 154 
 
 Shrimps 
 
 
 
 
 320 
 
 Dace , 
 
 
 
 160 
 
 Whelks . • 
 
 
 
 
 3 IS 
 
 Dor} r , John 
 
 • 
 
 
 149 
 
 Fisherman’s Soup 
 
 
 
 
 118 
 
 Eels . 
 
 • 
 
 
 160 
 
 Fillets of Beef, Broiled 
 
 
 
 230 
 
 Effects of . 
 
 • 
 
 
 128 
 
 Flancs 
 
 
 222,341 
 
 , 338, 
 
 339 ' 
 
 Forcemeat of 
 
 • 
 
 307,318 
 
 Flanc of Apple 
 
 
 
 
 341 
 
 Flounders . 
 
 • 
 
 
 153 
 
 Fruit 
 
 
 
 341, 
 
 342 
 
 Garfish 
 
 • 
 
 
 138 
 
 Meringue . 
 
 
 
 
 343 
 
 • Gray Mullet 
 
 • 
 
 
 142 
 
 what they are 
 
 
 
 
 311 
 
 Gudgeon . 
 
 
 
 159 
 
 Flounders, on . 
 
 
 
 
 153 
 
 Gurnet, Gurnard, or 
 
 Noud . 
 
 135 
 
 Water Souchet 
 
 
 
 
 153 
 
 F F 
 
434 
 
 INDEX 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Flounders, Fried 
 
 
 • 
 
 153 
 
 Fruit Pies 
 
 
 363 
 
 Food, light, for invalids 
 
 • 
 
 34 
 
 Salads of . , 
 
 
 388 
 
 Forcemeat, on 
 
 
 • 
 
 310 
 
 Vol-au-Vent 
 
 
 338 
 
 to make 
 
 
 • 
 
 311 
 
 Wall 
 
 
 362 
 
 Fish . 
 
 • 
 
 307, 811, 
 
 320 
 
 Frying, on 
 
 
 70 
 
 Panada for 
 
 
 • 
 
 311 
 
 Fry, Lambs 
 
 
 198 
 
 of Veal 
 
 
 • 
 
 311 
 
 Fumet de Gibier Sauce 
 
 
 103 
 
 of Whitings 
 
 
 • 
 
 320 
 
 
 
 
 Fondue, Parmesan 
 
 
 • 
 
 370 
 
 Galantine, to cook . 
 
 
 304 
 
 Neapolitan 
 
 
 • 
 
 370 
 
 Jelly 
 
 
 354 
 
 simple 
 
 
 • 
 
 370 
 
 Turkey 
 
 
 304 
 
 Stilton Cheese 
 
 
 • 
 
 370 
 
 Veal 
 
 
 304 
 
 Fourree, Dartoise 
 
 
 • 
 
 344 
 
 how got 
 
 
 171 
 
 Gateau 
 
 
 • 
 
 344 
 
 Game, choice of 
 
 
 291 
 
 Rissole 
 
 
 • 
 
 343 
 
 to keep 
 
 
 292 
 
 Fowl, Pea 
 
 
 
 291 
 
 Made dishes of . 
 
 
 280 
 
 Fowls, on 
 
 
 
 212 
 
 Salad of . 
 
 
 316 
 
 Blanquettes of 
 
 
 • 
 
 258 
 
 Soup 
 
 
 125 
 
 Boiled 
 
 
 
 257 
 
 Tureen of . 
 
 
 303 
 
 Braised 
 
 
 • 
 
 257 
 
 Entrees of 
 
 
 280 
 
 Broiled 
 
 
 • 
 
 258 
 
 Bittern, common 
 
 
 298 
 
 Boudins of 
 
 
 • 
 
 262 
 
 little 
 
 
 29S 
 
 Croquettes of 
 
 
 • 
 
 259 
 
 Bitterbum or Bogbumper . 
 
 298 
 
 Fricassee of 
 
 
 • 
 
 260 
 
 Blackbirds 
 
 
 298 
 
 Fried 
 
 
 • 
 
 258 
 
 Black 
 
 
 292 
 
 Hashed, Indian 
 
 
 • 
 
 258 
 
 Bustard, great and little . 
 
 298 
 
 Italian way 
 
 
 • 
 
 216 
 
 Butterbump 
 
 
 298 
 
 a l’Ecarlate 
 
 
 
 216 
 
 Canvas Back Duck 
 
 
 297 
 
 a la Marengo 
 
 
 0 
 
 261 
 
 Capercailzie 
 
 
 293 
 
 a la Tartare 
 
 
 0 
 
 259 
 
 Coot, great 
 
 
 297 
 
 Minced 
 
 
 • 
 
 258 
 
 common bald 
 
 
 297 
 
 Pie . 
 
 
 •» 
 
 302 
 
 Cormorant 
 
 
 298 
 
 Pillau 
 
 
 • 
 
 273 
 
 Corncrake 
 
 
 296 
 
 Pulled, for invalids 
 
 • 
 
 61 
 
 Curlew Jack 
 
 
 296 
 
 Roast braised 
 
 
 • 
 
 210 
 
 Curlew, little 
 
 
 296 
 
 Saute 
 
 
 258, 260, 
 
 261 
 
 Daker Hen 
 
 
 296 
 
 Salad 
 
 
 
 317 
 
 Divers 
 
 
 297 
 
 to truss 
 
 
 212, 213 
 
 Dunbird 
 
 
 294 
 
 French Beans . 
 
 
 • 
 
 326 
 
 Fallow-finch 
 
 
 298 
 
 Ci.bbage Soup 
 
 
 0 
 
 119 
 
 Fieldfare . 
 
 
 296 
 
 Coffee 
 
 
 • 
 
 22 
 
 Flapper Duck . 
 
 
 293 
 
 French Herb Broth 
 
 
 9 
 
 48 
 
 Gallinule, or Watercrake . 
 
 296 
 
 Panada 
 
 
 . 44 
 
 311 
 
 Gambet 
 
 
 298 
 
 Pap . 
 
 
 • 
 
 30 
 
 Gannet, or Solan Goose 
 
 297 
 
 Plums Compote 
 
 
 • 
 
 377 
 
 Garganey . 
 
 
 294 
 
 Pot-au-Feu 
 
 
 • 
 
 126 
 
 God wits 
 
 
 298 
 
 Ragout of Mutton 
 
 • 
 
 242 
 
 Goose, Wild 
 
 
 297 
 
 Remedy for Colds 
 
 
 40 
 
 Bean 
 
 
 297 
 
 Fricandeau of Veal 
 
 
 234, 
 
 237 
 
 Barnacle 
 
 , ; 
 
 297 
 
 Fritadella 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 254 
 
 Brent 
 
 
 297 
 
 Fritters, Apple . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 348 
 
 Clakis 
 
 
 297 
 
 Apricot 
 
 • 
 
 
 348 
 
 Egyptian 
 
 
 297 
 
 Orange 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 348 
 
 Gambo . 
 
 
 297 
 
 Peach 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 348 
 
 Ganser . 
 
 
 297 
 
 Fruit, Chartreuse of 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 356 
 
 Redbreasted 
 
 
 297 
 
 Crusts . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 345 
 
 Siberian 
 
 
 297 
 
 Flanc of 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 341 
 
 Solan 
 
 
 297 
 
 Rissolettes 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 340 
 
 Spurwinged 
 
 
 297 
 
 Puddings 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 362 
 
 White-fronted . 
 
 297 
 
INDEX. 435 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Game—Goose, Tree . . • 297 
 
 Gorcock .... 292 
 
 Grebes . . . . 297 
 
 Grouse . . • • 292 
 
 Red . , . 292 
 
 White . . . 293 
 
 Wood ... 293 
 
 Gulls .... 297 
 
 Hares .... 299 
 
 Half Birds . . . 294 
 
 Herons . . . . 298 
 
 Heath Polts . . . 292 
 
 Kipps .... 297 
 
 Knot, Knute, or Knout . 295 
 
 Landrail .... 296 
 
 Lark.295 
 
 Leverets . . . . 300 
 
 Longtailed Duck . . 294 
 
 Mallard .... 293 
 
 Moorcock, or Gorcock . 292 
 
 Moorgame . . . . 292 
 
 Ox Bird .... 298 
 
 Partridge . . . . 292 
 
 Red-legged . . 292 
 
 Pea Fowl . . ... 291 
 
 Pheasant . . . . 292 
 
 Hybrid . . 292 
 
 Plovers . . . . 294 
 
 Bastard . . . 294 
 
 Dotterel . , . 294 
 
 Golden . . . 294 
 
 Gray . . . 294 
 
 Great . . . 294 
 
 Long-legged . . 294 
 
 Lapwing. . . 294 
 
 Norfolk . . . 294 
 
 Peewit . . . 294 
 
 Stone Curlew . . 294 
 
 Pochard .... 294 
 
 Ptarmigan . . « 293 
 
 Quails .... 295 
 
 Rabbits .... 298 
 
 Red Heads . . . 294 
 
 Red Wing . . . 296 
 
 Red Shank . . . 298 
 
 Ruffes and Reeves . . 296 
 
 Sandpiper, or Sanderling . 298 
 
 Shoveller . . . . 293 
 
 Snipes .... 295 
 
 Common . . 295 
 
 Great . . . 295 
 
 Jack . . . 295 
 
 Stare .... 298 
 
 Starlings . . . . 298 
 
 Stint .... 298 
 
 Swinepipe or Redwing . 296 
 
 Teal.294 
 
 Ternes, or Sea Swallow . 297 
 
 Thrush .... 296 I 
 
 Game—Tureen of 
 
 # 
 
 PAGE 
 
 303 
 
 Water Rail . 
 
 • 
 
 28 6 
 
 Whimbrel . 
 
 • 
 
 296 
 
 Whim 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Wheatear . 
 
 • 
 
 298 
 
 Whewer 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Widgeons . 
 
 • 
 
 294 
 
 Great Headed 
 
 294 
 
 Wild-duck 
 
 « 
 
 293 
 
 Windthrush 
 
 4 
 
 296 
 
 Woodcock . 
 
 4 
 
 295 
 
 Garlic Sauce 
 
 « 
 
 94 
 
 Garniture for Omelettes 
 
 • 
 
 ,ae>9 
 
 Gateau Fourre . 
 
 • 
 
 344 
 
 Gauffres a la Flamande 
 
 • 
 
 349 
 
 Gibelote of Rabbit . 
 
 • 
 
 264 
 
 Giblets 
 
 • 
 
 219 
 
 Pie 
 
 • 
 
 267 
 
 Soup . . 
 
 • 
 
 117 
 
 Glaze . . , 
 
 m 
 
 107 
 
 Gold Jelly 
 
 • 
 
 354 
 
 Goose, on the . . 
 
 • 
 
 217 
 
 to choose . . 
 
 • 
 
 217 
 
 Giblets . . 
 
 # 
 
 219 
 
 Hashed . . 
 
 • 
 
 262 
 
 Pie . . . 
 
 $ 
 
 302 
 
 Preserved . . 
 
 • 
 
 219 
 
 Stewed . , 
 
 • 
 
 219 
 
 Stuffing . • 
 
 
 218 
 
 Roasted . . 
 
 • 
 
 218 
 
 to truss . . 
 
 • 
 
 217 
 
 Wild 
 
 4 
 
 297 
 
 Gooseberry, Green, Compote 
 
 379 
 
 Pie 
 
 m 
 
 364. 
 
 Pudding . . 
 
 • 
 
 363 
 
 Vol-au-Vent 
 
 tt 
 
 339 
 
 with Rhubarb 
 
 339 
 
 Gosling, Roast . 
 
 4 
 
 290 
 
 Grass, Sprue . . 
 
 4 
 
 323 
 
 Gratin of Lobster 
 
 4 
 
 313 
 
 Gravy, Brown . 
 
 9 
 
 90 
 
 Spinach and 
 
 9 
 
 327 
 
 Turkey 
 
 9 
 
 206 
 
 Greengage Compote . 
 
 . 376, 378 
 
 Greengage Pudding . 
 
 9 
 
 363 
 
 Gray Hen Salad 
 
 4 
 
 317 
 
 Groats, Scotch, Gruel 
 
 4 
 
 43 
 
 Grouse Pie 
 
 . 268,302 
 
 Scotch Plan of Cooking 
 
 282 
 
 Gruel 
 
 « 
 
 42 
 
 Sago . 
 
 4 
 
 43 
 
 Gudgeons, Fried 
 
 4 
 
 160 
 
 Guinea Fowls, Roasted 
 
 4 
 
 291 
 
 Gurnet, Baked . . 
 
 9 
 
 135 
 
 Boiled . . 
 
 4 
 
 135 
 
 Haddocks, Baked 
 
 9 
 
 133 
 
 Dried . . 
 
 • 
 
 12 
 
 Dublin Bay . 
 
 • 
 
 133 
 
 F F 2 
 
436 
 
 INDEX 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Haddocks—Fillets of 
 
 . 279 
 
 J am—Raspberry 
 
 • • 
 
 . 386 
 
 Finnon 
 
 • • 
 
 . 13 
 
 Strawberry 
 
 • • 
 
 . 386 
 
 and Toast . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 12 
 
 Jardiniere, Neck of Lamb 
 
 . 195 
 
 en Papillote 
 
 • • 
 
 . 13 
 
 Sauce 
 
 • • 
 
 . 195 
 
 Ham 
 
 • • 
 
 . 200 
 
 Jelly, Apple 
 
 • 
 
 . 386 
 
 to choose . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 16 
 
 Arrow-root 
 
 « • 
 
 . 43 
 
 Cold . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 306 
 
 Bohemian Cream 
 
 . 355 
 
 and Eggs . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 17 
 
 Calf’s Foot 
 
 • • 
 
 . 353 
 
 Hamburgh, Beef 
 
 • • 
 
 177 
 
 Curafoa 
 
 • • 
 
 . 354 
 
 Hard Eggs 
 
 # • 
 
 . 9 
 
 Currant 
 
 • • 
 
 . 387 
 
 Hare, Jugged . 
 
 • • 
 
 285,286 
 
 French 
 
 • • 
 
 . 354 
 
 Roasted 
 
 • • 
 
 . 299 
 
 Gelatine . 
 
 • 9 
 
 . 354 
 
 Soup . 
 
 • • 
 
 124 
 
 Gold . 
 
 9 • 
 
 . 354 
 
 Haricot Beans . 
 
 • • 
 
 328 
 
 Hartshorn . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 354 
 
 Hartshorn Jelly 
 
 • • 
 
 . 354 
 
 Isinglass . 
 
 • « 
 
 . 354 
 
 Haunch of Mutton 
 
 • • 
 
 . 188 
 
 Marasquino 
 
 • • 
 
 . 354 
 
 Venison 
 
 • • 
 
 . 202 
 
 Noyeau 
 
 • • 
 
 . 354 
 
 Herbs with Omelette 
 
 . 288 
 
 Lemon 
 
 • • 
 
 . 355 
 
 Minced, Sauce 
 
 
 . 93 
 
 Orange . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 355 
 
 Italian, Sauce 
 
 • • 
 
 . 93 
 
 Quince 
 
 • • 
 
 . 387 
 
 Chopping . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 335 
 
 Rum-Punch 
 
 • • 
 
 . 354 
 
 Herrings, Boiled 
 
 
 143 
 
 Silver 
 
 • • 
 
 . 354 
 
 Baked 
 
 • • 
 
 . 143 
 
 Stock 
 
 • • 
 
 . 353 
 
 Broiled 
 
 • • 
 
 . 143 
 
 Whipped . 
 
 • 
 
 . 355 
 
 Toast 
 
 • • 
 
 . 11 
 
 of Meat, to clarify 
 
 . 305 
 
 Hotch Potch 
 
 • • 
 
 . 118 
 
 Julienne Soup . 
 
 • 
 
 . 110 
 
 
 
 
 Kidneys, Bread-crumbed . 
 
 . 15 
 
 Iced Almond Cake 
 
 • • 
 
 . 372 
 
 Maitre-d’Hotel 
 
 • • 
 
 . 15 
 
 Cream, Apricot, 
 
 &c. « 
 
 . 384 
 
 on Toast . 
 
 • « 
 
 . 15 
 
 Coffee 
 
 • 
 
 . 383 
 
 Ox 
 
 • • 
 
 233 
 
 Lemon 
 
 • • 
 
 . 384 
 
 Pudding 
 
 Sauteed 
 
 • • 
 
 233,271 
 
 Orange 
 
 • • 
 
 . 384 
 
 • • 
 
 16 
 
 Pine Apple 
 
 • • 
 
 . 383 
 
 Sheep’s 
 
 • • 
 
 . 14, 241 
 
 Strawberry 
 
 • • 
 
 . 384 
 
 Kidney Beans . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 327 
 
 Vanilla 
 
 • • 
 
 . 382 
 
 Kitchen Utensils 
 
 • • 
 
 . 412 
 
 Wafers 
 
 • • 
 
 . 346 
 
 Knuckle of Veal 
 
 « • 
 
 . 182 
 
 White Almond Pudding 
 
 365 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Lait. de Poule . 
 
 « • 
 
 40 
 
 Icing, Royal, for Cakes 
 
 . 379 
 
 Sweet 
 
 • • 
 
 . 41 
 
 Imperial . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 50 
 
 Lamb, on . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 194 
 
 Indian Hash Fowl 
 
 • • 
 
 . 258 
 
 Breast of, Broiled 
 
 . 197 
 
 Invalids, Comforts for 
 
 . 34 
 
 Curried 
 
 • • 
 
 , 275 
 
 Fish for 
 
 • • 
 
 . 54 
 
 Chop . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 58,250 
 
 Food . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 34 
 
 Curry 
 
 • • 
 
 275 
 
 Larks for . 
 
 
 . 61 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 • « 
 
 250 
 
 Meat . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 34, 56 
 
 to cut up . 
 
 » • 
 
 195 
 
 Mutton Broth 
 
 • • 
 
 . 34, 36 
 
 Feet . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 58,250 
 
 Partridges . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 60 
 
 Fry . 
 
 • • 
 
 198 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 • • 
 
 , 60 
 
 Head . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 198 
 
 Poultry 
 
 • • 
 
 . 59 
 
 Heart 
 
 • • 
 
 , 250 
 
 Puddings . 
 
 • « 
 
 . 51 
 
 Leg of 
 
 • • 
 
 . 196 
 
 Soles . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 55 
 
 Neck of 
 
 • • 
 
 . 195 
 
 Irish Stew 
 
 • • 
 
 . 243 
 
 Pie . 
 
 • • 
 
 264,266 
 
 Soup . . 
 
 • « 
 
 . 113 
 
 Papillote . 
 
 • • 
 
 251 
 
 Isinglass Jelly . 
 
 • w 
 
 . 354 
 
 Pudding 
 
 • • 
 
 270 
 
 Italian Drops . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 393 
 
 Quality of . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 195 
 
 
 
 
 Remains of 
 
 • • 
 
 249 
 
 Jam, Apricot . 
 
 • • 
 
 . 385 
 
 Saddle of, Russian Fashion 196 
 
 Quince . 
 
 • • 
 
 , 385 
 
 Sauteed 
 
 • • 
 
 251 
 
INDEX. 
 
 437 
 
 PACK 
 
 Lamb—Shoulder of . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 196 
 
 Larding . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 235 
 
 Larks for Invalids 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 61 
 
 a la Minute . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 285 
 
 Pie . . • 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 285 
 
 Laver 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 330 
 
 Lentils 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 329 
 
 Soup . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 123 
 
 Letters—I, xv; II, xvi 
 
 ; HI, 26 ; IV 
 
 , 27; 
 
 V, 29; VI, 62; VII, 63; 
 
 VIII, 
 
 63 ; 
 
 IX, 66; X, 66 ; xi, 67 ; 
 
 XII, 
 
 68 ; 
 
 XIII, 185; XIV, 243; XV, 
 
 246 ; 
 
 XVI, 
 
 312; XVII, 373; XVIII, 
 
 394; 
 
 XIX, 
 
 397; XX, 401; XXI 
 
 403; 
 
 XXII, 
 
 405; 
 
 XXIII, 419; XXIV, 
 
 419 ; 
 
 XXV, 
 
 422 ; 
 
 XXVI, 425; XXVII, 
 Leveret 
 
 447. 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 300 
 
 Lemonade, Barley 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 46 
 
 Cooling 
 
 • 
 
 . 50 
 
 , 402 
 
 Lemon Cheesecakes . 
 
 • 
 
 
 347 
 
 Jelly . 
 
 • 
 
 
 355 
 
 Souffle . . 
 
 • 
 
 367 
 
 ,368 
 
 Leg of Lamb . . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 196 
 
 Pork . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 199 
 
 Liaison of Eggs. 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 94 
 
 Liver, Calf’s 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 237 
 
 Lobster Butter . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 170 
 
 Curry . . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 278 
 
 a la Creme 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 166 
 
 Gratin of . . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 313 
 
 Miroton of 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 313 
 
 Plain 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 314 
 
 Salad 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 314 
 
 Sauce 
 
 • 
 
 165,166 
 
 Loin of Mutton . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 191 
 
 Pork . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 199 
 
 Veal . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 181 
 
 Braised 
 
 • 
 
 183,307 
 
 Cold 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 307 
 
 Luncheon . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 27 
 
 Mackerel a la Maitre-d’Hotel 
 
 • 
 
 136 
 
 au Beurre Noir . 
 
 
 • 
 
 137 
 
 Boiled 
 
 
 • 
 
 136 
 
 Pickled 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 157 
 
 Soft Roe Sauce . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 164 
 
 Stewed 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 137 
 
 Macaroons 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 393 
 
 Macaroni . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 333 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 349 
 
 a l’Estoufade 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 334 
 
 au Gratin . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 334 
 
 a, l’ltalienne 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 333 
 
 a la Neapolitaine 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 334 
 
 Pudding 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 52 
 
 Soup . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 112 
 
 to blanch . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 333 
 
 Macedoine Omelette . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 347 
 
 Madeira, Cru3ts with 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 345 
 
 PACK 
 
 Made Dishe3 of Beef . . 223 
 
 Game . . 280 
 
 Yeal . . 240 
 
 Maitre-d’Hotel Butter . . 170 
 
 Maids of Honour . . . 346 
 
 Marasquino Jelly . . • 354 
 
 Marinade of Salmon . . . 316 
 
 Marrow, Vegetable . . . 325 
 
 Pudding . . * 361 
 
 Matelote Sauce . . . . 169 
 
 Marmalade with Pancake . 348 
 
 of Apple .... 385 
 
 of Apricot .... 385 
 
 of Cherries . . • 386 
 
 of Pine-Apple . . • 389 
 
 Mashed eggs . . . . 286 
 
 Maigre Eggs . . . • 287 
 
 Soup .... 123,124 
 
 Meat, Aspic of . . . • 305 
 
 for Breakfast ... 14 
 
 for Invalids . . .34,56 
 
 Melted Butter . . . . 164 
 
 Mephistophelian Sauce . . 102 
 
 Meringues, Flanc . . • 343 
 
 Milk, on.88 
 
 and Bread .... 31 
 
 Rice ..... 41 
 
 Semoulina. . . • 42 
 
 Tapioca .... 42 
 
 Vermicelli .... 42 
 
 Minced Beef . . • • 231 
 
 Fowl • • * ♦ 258 
 
 Meat .... 363 
 
 Pie .... 363 
 
 Pudding . . . 358 
 
 Pheasant . . . . 282 
 
 Mint sauce . • • » 94 
 
 Minute, Snipes a la . . . 2S3 
 
 Miroton of Beef . . . 224 
 
 Salad of Lobster • . 313 
 
 Moor-fowl Pie . . • « 302 
 
 Mould Puddings . . . 358 
 
 Mock Turtle, Brown . . . 116 
 
 White . . . 115 
 
 Muffins, to make ... 5 
 
 toast ... 5 
 
 Mulberry Pie . . . . 364 
 
 Mulligatawny Soup . . . 116 
 
 Muria Sauce . . • • 163 
 
 Mullet, or Sur Mullet, to cook . 140 
 
 their price in Rome . . 139 
 
 how it feeds . . • 140 
 
 Filleted, liver sauce . . 141 
 
 Papillote . • • • 141 
 
 Saute .... 141 
 
 Mussel sauce . . • • 168 
 
 Mushrooms .... 81, 328 
 
 Blanched . . . • 101 
 
 with eggs . . * • 287 
 
438 
 
 INDEX 
 
 
 
 
 PACK 
 
 
 
 PACK 
 
 Mushroom Sauce 
 
 • 
 
 
 91, 93 
 
 Omelets—Bum . 
 
 
 . 347 
 
 Mutton, on 
 
 
 
 187 
 
 Saute Souffle 
 
 
 368 
 
 Broiled 
 
 
 
 190 
 
 Sauteed in Cream 
 
 
 . 369 
 
 Broth 
 
 34, 35, 
 
 36, 113 
 
 Strawberry Jam 
 
 
 . 8'T 
 
 Chop . 
 
 » 
 
 
 56 
 
 Sweet 
 
 
 . 3*7 
 
 Soyer’s 
 
 • 
 
 
 245 
 
 garniture for— 
 
 
 
 Breast of, Curry 
 
 • 
 
 
 275 
 
 Asparagus . 
 
 
 . 289 
 
 Curry 
 
 
 
 275 
 
 Bacon 
 
 
 . 2S9 
 
 Cutlet, various ways, 
 
 57, 58, 247, 
 
 Green Peas 
 
 
 . 289 
 
 248, 249. 
 
 
 
 
 Kidney 
 
 
 . 289 
 
 Plain 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 57 
 
 Lobster 
 
 
 . 289 
 
 French Ragout of 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 242 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 
 . 289 
 
 Haunch of . . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 188 
 
 Oysters 
 
 
 , 289 
 
 Highland . . , 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 188 
 
 Peas . 
 
 
 . 289 
 
 Kerry 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 188 
 
 Onion, Button, Sauce 
 
 
 , 99 
 
 Leg of, Boasted 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 189 
 
 Puree 
 
 
 . 97 
 
 Boiled . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 189 
 
 Soup Maigre 
 
 
 124 
 
 a La Bretonne 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 190 
 
 Stuffed 
 
 
 101 
 
 Stewed . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 192 
 
 Orangeade 
 
 
 50 
 
 Loin of, Boasted 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 192 
 
 Orange Compote 
 
 
 377, 378 
 
 a la Bretonne 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 191 
 
 Fritters 
 
 
 348 
 
 Neck of. Boasted 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 193 
 
 Salad . . 
 
 
 388 
 
 Boiled 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 193 
 
 Vol-au-Vent . 
 
 
 339 
 
 Pie .... 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 266 
 
 Jelly . 
 
 
 355 
 
 Pillau 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 274 
 
 Ice Cream . . 
 
 
 384 
 
 Pudding . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 270 
 
 Sauce 
 
 
 94 
 
 Boast, for children . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 32 
 
 Souffle 
 
 
 368 
 
 Saddle of . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 188 
 
 Osmazome . . 
 
 
 . 39,171 
 
 a la Polonaise 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 188 
 
 Oxen, to judge . 
 
 
 171 
 
 Shoulder of, Boasted 
 
 
 • 
 
 191 
 
 how cut 
 
 
 . 172 
 
 Boiled . 
 
 
 
 191 
 
 Ox-beef, to hang 
 
 
 172 
 
 Baked, with Apples 
 
 191 
 
 Brains 
 
 
 . 229 
 
 Provincial 
 
 
 
 192 
 
 Cheek Soup 
 
 
 . 114 
 
 Stuffed and Ba 
 
 ked 
 
 191 
 
 Feet . 
 
 
 233 
 
 Southdown 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 188 
 
 Heart 
 
 
 . 228 
 
 Welsh 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 188 
 
 Kidneys 
 
 
 . 233 
 
 Wicklow . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 188 
 
 Tail Curry . 
 
 
 . 277 
 
 
 
 
 
 au Gratin . 
 
 
 . 227 
 
 Neapolitan Fondue . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 370 
 
 a la Jardiniere 
 
 
 . 227 
 
 Neck of Lamb . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 195 
 
 Sauce piquante 
 
 
 . 227 
 
 Pork 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 199 
 
 Soup . 
 
 
 114 
 
 Veal 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 181 
 
 Tongue, cold 
 
 
 307 
 
 Venison 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 203 
 
 hot 
 
 
 306 
 
 Nectarine Pudding . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 362 
 
 fresh 
 
 
 178 
 
 Nesselrode Pudding . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 364 
 
 pickled, to boil 
 
 178 
 
 New Drink 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 45 
 
 remains of 
 
 
 179, 234 
 
 Nursery Dinner 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 29 
 
 Oysters 
 
 
 . 319 
 
 
 
 
 
 E<caloped . 
 
 
 319 
 
 Omelets 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 11 
 
 Fried. 
 
 
 . 319 
 
 Cherry, Preserved 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 347 
 
 Curry 
 
 
 . 278 
 
 Currant Jelly 
 
 * 
 
 • 
 
 347 
 
 Soup . 
 
 
 117 
 
 Garniture for 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 289 
 
 Sauce 
 
 
 . 167 
 
 Ham . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 288 
 
 Stewed 
 
 
 819 
 
 Herb 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 288 
 
 
 
 
 Macedoine of 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 347 
 
 Panada, French 
 
 
 . 44, 311 
 
 Parmesan . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 287 
 
 Pancake with Marmalade 
 
 . 348 
 
 Preserved Peach 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 347 
 
 Pap .... 
 
 
 29 
 
 Preserved Apricot 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 347 
 
 French 
 
 
 . 30 
 
 Raspberry Jam . 
 
 • 
 
 • 
 
 347 
 
 Papillote Lamb Chops 
 
 
 . 251 
 
Papillote Mullet 
 Sauce 
 
 Parmesan Fondue 
 Parsnips . 
 
 Partridge, Roasted 
 Hashed 
 for invalids 
 Pie 
 Salad 
 Salmi 
 
 Saute with Mushrooms 
 Stewed with Cabbage 
 Palates of Reef. 
 a la Bretonne 
 a PIndienne 
 a la Maitre-d’Hotel 
 a la Poulette 
 Palestine Soup 
 Paste, Beef Suet 
 
 different sorts of 
 d’Office, or Confectioners’ 
 Puff .... 
 
 Half . . . 
 
 Short, or Pate a foncer 
 Short, for Fruit Tarts 
 335, 
 
 Pastry Cream Saute . 
 
 Turban of 
 Peach Compote 
 Fritters 
 Omelet 
 Salad 
 
 Vol-au-Vent 
 Pea-Fowl . 
 
 Pear Compote 
 Pie 
 
 with Rice 
 
 Peas and Sprue-grass Sauce 
 and Bacon 
 French way 
 Green 
 
 with Eggs 
 Soup. 
 
 Stewed 
 Winter 
 
 Pease Pudding . 
 
 Perch, Sauteed in Butter . 
 
 Hampton Court fashion 
 Pheasant, Broiled 
 Hashed 
 Joe Miller’s 
 Minced . . . 
 
 Pie, raised . 
 
 Salmi 
 Salad 
 
 Stewed with Cabbage 
 Pickle a la Garrick . 
 
 Pickled Mackerel 
 
 Pork .... 
 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 439 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 141 
 
 Pickled Salmon 
 
 
 157 
 
 
 95 
 
 Trout 
 
 • 
 
 157 
 
 
 370 
 
 Pie, Capon 
 
 • 
 
 . 302 
 
 
 331 j 
 
 Chicken 
 
 • 
 
 . 266 
 
 
 292 
 
 Duckling . . 
 
 • 
 
 . 302 
 
 
 283 
 
 Eel . . . 
 
 • 
 
 . 269 
 
 
 60 
 
 Fowl . . 
 
 • 
 
 . 302 
 
 268, 
 
 302 
 
 Giblet . . 
 
 • 
 
 . 267 
 
 
 317 
 
 Goose . • 
 
 • 
 
 . 302 
 
 
 283 
 
 Grouse . 
 
 • 
 
 268, 302 
 
 
 282 
 
 Hare . . 
 
 • 
 
 302 
 
 
 282 
 
 Lamb . 
 
 • 
 
 264, 266 
 
 
 225 
 
 Mutton 
 
 • 
 
 . 266 
 
 
 226 
 
 Moorfowl . . 
 
 • 
 
 . 302 
 
 
 226 
 
 Partridge . • 
 
 • 
 
 268, 302 
 
 
 226 
 
 Pigeon 
 
 • 
 
 267, 303 
 
 
 226 
 
 Pheasant . . 
 
 - • 
 
 . 302 
 
 
 105 
 
 Poulard . . 
 
 • 
 
 302 
 
 
 336 
 
 Rabbit 
 
 • 
 
 . 267 
 
 
 335 
 
 Rump-steak . 
 
 • 
 
 . 265 
 
 
 337 
 
 Sea . 
 
 • 
 
 268 
 
 
 336 
 
 Yeal and Ham 
 
 • 
 
 266, 300 
 
 
 336 
 
 Fruit . 
 
 • 
 
 . 363 
 
 
 337 
 
 Apple 
 
 • 
 
 . 364 
 
 
 
 Cherry 
 
 • 
 
 . 364 
 
 336 
 
 ,337 
 
 Cranberry . 
 
 • 
 
 . 364 
 
 • 
 
 353 
 
 Currant 
 
 s 
 
 . 364 
 
 • 
 
 372 
 
 Damson 
 
 • 
 
 . 364 
 
 375 
 
 , 378 
 
 Dewberry and Raspberry 
 
 . 364 
 
 • 
 
 348 
 
 Gooseberry 
 
 • 
 
 . 364 
 
 • 
 
 347 
 
 Minced Meat 
 
 * 
 
 . 363 
 
 • 
 
 3S8 
 
 Mulberry . 
 
 • 
 
 . 364 
 
 • 
 
 338 
 
 Pear . 
 
 • 
 
 . 364 
 
 • 
 
 291 
 
 Plum. 
 
 • 
 
 . 364 
 
 375 
 
 378 
 
 Quince . . 
 
 • 
 
 . 364 
 
 
 364 
 
 Raspberry . 
 
 • 
 
 . 364 
 
 • 
 
 351 
 
 Rhubarb . . 
 
 • 
 
 . 364 
 
 • 
 
 98 
 
 Whortleberry 
 
 • 
 
 364 
 
 • 
 
 101 
 
 Pies, simple plan of making 
 
 , 303 
 
 
 322 
 
 Various 
 
 • 
 
 . 265 
 
 • 
 
 322 
 
 Pigeons en Compote . 
 
 
 . 264 
 
 • 
 
 287 
 
 for Invalids 
 
 • 
 
 60 
 
 • 
 
 122 
 
 Pie . 
 
 • 
 
 267, 303 
 
 • 
 
 100 
 
 Stewed with Peas 
 
 • 
 
 264 
 
 • 
 
 122 
 
 Pig, Sucking 
 
 • 
 
 201 
 
 • 
 
 273 
 
 Hind quarter of 
 
 . 201 
 
 • 
 
 158 
 
 Pig’s Cheek 
 
 * 
 
 201 
 
 • 
 
 158 
 
 Feet, a la Ste. Menehould . 253 
 
 • 
 
 280 
 
 Kidneys 
 
 
 . 253 
 
 
 2S1 
 
 Head, like Wild Boar’s 
 
 . 308 
 
 • 
 
 281 
 
 to braise . 
 
 • 
 
 . 309 
 
 • 
 
 282 
 
 Pike, to cook 
 
 • 
 
 . 154 
 
 • 
 
 302 
 
 Sauce Matelote . 
 
 • 
 
 . 155 
 
 • 
 
 281 
 
 Pillau, Fowl 
 
 • 
 
 . 273 
 
 • 
 
 317 
 
 Mutton 
 
 • 
 
 . 274 
 
 • 
 
 280 
 
 Pine Apple, Ice of 
 
 • 
 
 . 383 
 
 • 
 
 308 
 
 Compote 
 
 • 
 
 3S9 
 
 • 
 
 157 
 
 Piquante Sauce. 
 
 • 
 
 . 92 
 
 • 
 
 202 
 
 Plovers Sauteed with Truffles 
 
 2S4 
 
440 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Plum Beverage. 
 
 
 
 PACK 
 
 49 
 
 Pudding, Pease 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 273 
 
 Compote 
 
 • 
 
 
 377 
 
 Pork . 
 
 
 271 
 
 Stewed 
 
 • 
 
 
 49 
 
 Rabbit . . 
 
 
 271 
 
 Yol-au-Vent 
 
 • 
 
 
 340 
 
 Suet .... 
 
 
 271 
 
 Poached Eggs . 
 
 • 
 
 
 9 
 
 Toad-in-IIole 
 
 
 272 
 
 Pork, to cut up . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 198 
 
 Veal .... 
 
 
 270 
 
 to choose . • 
 
 • 
 
 
 198 
 
 Kidney 
 
 
 271 
 
 Salted , . 
 
 • 
 
 
 201 
 
 Yorkshire . 
 
 
 272 
 
 Pickled . > 
 
 • 
 
 
 202 
 
 for Invalids and Children 
 
 
 51 
 
 Chine of . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 199 
 
 Apple and Rice 
 
 
 51 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 • 
 
 251,252 
 
 Bread 
 
 
 53 
 
 Curry . 
 
 • 
 
 
 275 
 
 Bread and Butter . 
 
 
 53 
 
 Hashed . , 
 
 • 
 
 
 253 
 
 Small 
 
 
 53 
 
 Hand of, Pickled 
 
 • 
 
 
 202 
 
 Cabinet . 
 
 
 53 
 
 Leg of, Roasted 
 
 
 
 199 
 
 Custard . 
 
 
 52 
 
 Loin of, a la Piemontai3e 
 
 
 199 
 
 Macaroni 
 
 
 52 
 
 Normandy fashion 
 
 
 200 
 
 Rice 
 
 
 52 
 
 Pudding 
 
 • 
 
 
 271 
 
 Tapioca . 
 
 
 53 
 
 Sparerib of 
 
 • 
 
 
 199 
 
 Vermicelli 
 
 
 52 
 
 Porridge . 
 
 • 
 
 
 31 
 
 in Moulds . 
 
 
 358 
 
 Potatoes, Introduction of 
 
 • 
 
 
 331 
 
 a la Eloise . 
 
 
 358 
 
 their Effects 
 
 • 
 
 
 331 
 
 a la Reine . 
 
 
 358 
 
 Varieties of 
 
 • 
 
 
 331 
 
 Brown Bread 
 
 
 359 
 
 Baked 
 
 • 
 
 
 331 
 
 Carrot 
 
 
 359 
 
 Boiled 
 
 • 
 
 
 333 
 
 Chesnut 
 
 
 364 
 
 Fried 
 
 • 
 
 
 332 
 
 College 
 
 
 359 
 
 Mashed 
 
 • 
 
 
 333 
 
 Demi-Plum 
 
 
 359 
 
 Irish way of Boiling 
 
 
 
 333 
 
 Iced Cabinet 
 
 
 364 
 
 a la Lyonnaise . 
 
 
 
 332 
 
 Minced Meat 
 
 
 358 
 
 a la Maitre d’Hotel 
 
 
 
 333 
 
 Nesselrode . 
 
 
 364 
 
 Mashed 
 
 • 
 
 
 332 
 
 Preserved Ginger 
 
 
 360 
 
 Sandwiches 
 
 • 
 
 
 228 
 
 Trifle.... 
 
 
 359 
 
 Poultry, on 
 
 • 
 
 
 204 
 
 in Cloths . 
 
 
 360 
 
 for Invalids 
 
 • 
 
 
 59 
 
 Apple 
 
 
 362 
 
 to kill and pluck 
 
 • 
 
 
 204 
 
 Apricot 
 
 
 362 
 
 to pluck 
 
 • 
 
 
 205 
 
 Blackberry 
 
 
 363 
 
 en Capilotade 
 
 • 
 
 
 25S 
 
 Cocoa Nut . 
 
 
 362 
 
 Poulards, Braised 
 
 • 
 
 
 210 
 
 Currant, Red and White 
 
 
 363 
 
 Boiled 
 
 • 
 
 
 213 
 
 Custard, Baked . 
 
 
 362 
 
 with Carrots 
 
 • 
 
 
 215 
 
 Damson 
 
 
 363 
 
 with Cucumbers 
 
 • 
 
 
 215 
 
 Gooseberry 
 
 
 363 
 
 Poulard Pie 
 
 • 
 
 
 302 
 
 Greengage . 
 
 
 363 
 
 with Quenelles . 
 
 • 
 
 
 214 
 
 Marrow, Baked . 
 
 
 361 
 
 with Rice . 
 
 • 
 
 
 214 
 
 Nectarine . 
 
 
 362 
 
 Roasted 
 
 • 
 
 
 213 
 
 Peach 
 
 
 362 
 
 Stewed 
 
 • 
 
 
 213 
 
 Plum.... 
 
 
 360 
 
 Poults, Turkey . 
 
 • 
 
 
 290 
 
 Plain Bolster 
 
 
 361 
 
 Prawn Curry . , 
 
 • 
 
 
 278 
 
 Plum Bolster 
 
 
 361 
 
 Preserved Goose 
 
 • 
 
 
 219 
 
 Raspberry and Cherry 
 
 
 363 
 
 Prussian Cutlets . 
 
 • 
 
 
 255 
 
 Rhubarb 
 
 
 363 
 
 Ptarmigan Salad . 
 
 • 
 
 
 317 
 
 Rice, Glace 
 
 
 365 
 
 Pudding, Meat . » 
 
 • 
 
 
 269 
 
 Rowley Powley . 
 
 
 361 
 
 Beefsteak . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 269 
 
 Whorts 
 
 
 363 
 
 Black . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 18, 19 
 
 Puff Cheesecakes . ; 
 
 
 371 
 
 Fish . . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 272 
 
 Paste 
 
 335 
 
 336 
 
 Kidney . . 
 
 • 
 
 
 271 
 
 Pulled Fowl for Invalids . 
 
 
 61 
 
 Ox-Kidney 
 
 • 
 
 
 271 
 
 Pullets, on 
 
 
 212 
 
 Lamb 
 
 • 
 
 
 270 
 
 to Truss for Roasting . 
 
 
 212 
 
 Mutton 
 
 • 
 
 
 270 
 
 Roasted, with Cresses 
 
 
 290 
 
INDEX. 
 
 441 
 
 Punch, Cold 
 Quails . 
 
 Quenelles. Ragout Sauce 
 with Tongue 
 of Forcemeat 
 Quince Pie . • • 
 
 Rabbit, on 
 Roasted 
 Curry 
 
 Fricassee of . 
 
 Gibelotte of 
 Pie . o . 
 
 Pudding . 
 
 Raised Pies . . 
 
 Ramifolle . ' . 
 
 Raminole, Cheese 
 Raspberry Jam . 
 
 Omelet 
 Pie . 
 
 Pudding . 
 
 Vinegar 
 Ratafias . 
 
 Eavigote Butter 
 Sauce 
 
 Refreshing Beverage 
 Removes . 
 
 Remains of Lamb 
 Duck . 
 
 Game 
 
 Rhubarb Compote 
 Pie . 
 
 Pudding 
 Vol-au-Vent 
 Rice with Apples 
 to boil 
 Broth 
 Croquettes 
 Milk . 
 with Pears 
 Pudding . 
 
 with Apples 
 Poulard with 
 Soup . • 
 
 Rissole Fourree 
 Rissolettes, little Fruit 
 Ribs of Beef, Roasted 
 Braised . 
 Roasting, on . 
 
 Roasts, Second Course 
 Robert Sauce . . 
 
 Rolls, milk 
 Brioche 
 Roux 
 
 Ruffes and Reeves, to feed 
 Rump Steak . 
 
 Broiled • 
 
 PAGK 
 
 
 402 
 
 Rum, Omelet with . 
 
 295 
 
 Jelly . 
 
 Rusks, to make 
 
 100 
 
 Russe, Charlotte 
 
 214 
 
 
 311 
 
 Saddle of Lamb 
 
 364 
 
 Sadfdle back of Venison 
 
 298 
 
 Sago Gruel 
 
 Salad, Beef 
 
 299 
 
 and Potatoes 
 
 274 
 
 Black Game 
 
 263 
 
 Family, French 
 
 264 
 
 Fish . 
 
 267 
 
 Fowl . 
 
 271 
 
 Game 
 
 .300 
 
 Gray Hen . 
 
 255 
 
 Lobster 
 
 371 
 
 Miroton of Lobster 
 
 386 
 
 Partridge . 
 
 347 
 
 Pheasant . 
 
 364 
 
 Plain 
 
 363 
 
 Ptarmigan 
 
 47 
 
 Tartar 
 
 393 
 
 Salads of Fruit . 
 
 170 
 
 Salad Sandwich 
 
 93 
 
 Salmi of Partridge . 
 
 46 
 
 Pheasant . 
 
 70, 364 
 
 Salmon, Boiled . . 
 
 249 
 
 Broiled 
 
 221 
 
 Curry 
 
 317 
 
 Marinade . 
 
 379 
 
 Matelote . 
 
 364 
 
 Pickled 
 
 363 
 
 Salsify 
 
 339 
 
 Salt Pork . 
 
 350 
 
 Sandwiches 
 
 334 
 
 Sardines . 
 
 36 
 
 and Toast . 
 
 352 
 
 Sauces, on 
 
 41 
 
 Anchovy 
 
 351 
 
 Beans, French . 
 
 52 
 
 Beyrout 
 
 51 
 
 for Meat . 
 
 214 
 
 Brown 
 
 112 
 
 Cucumber 
 
 343 
 
 Mushroom 
 
 340 
 
 Button Onion 
 
 173 
 
 Caper 
 
 173 
 
 Carrot 
 
 68 
 
 Cauliflower 
 
 290 
 
 Chicory 
 
 93 
 
 Cream 
 
 4 
 
 Cucumber . 
 
 Curry 
 
 7 
 
 Demi-Glaze 
 
 90 
 
 Egg . 
 
 296 
 
 Endive 
 
 58 
 
 Eschalot • • 
 
 179 
 
 Fennel 
 
 PAGES 
 
 347 
 
 354 
 
 6 
 
 356 
 
 196 
 
 203 
 
 43 
 
 232 
 
 232 
 
 317 
 
 232 
 
 316 
 
 317 
 
 316 
 
 317 
 314 
 
 313 
 317 
 317 
 
 314 
 317 
 
 315 
 388 
 403 
 283 
 281 
 130 
 130 
 279 
 
 316 
 130 
 157 
 324 
 201 
 403 
 
 14 
 
 12 
 
 88 
 
 164 
 99 
 
 167 
 
 167 
 91, 92 
 
 92 
 
 91 
 99 
 
 103 
 
 99 
 
 97 
 
 98 
 
 168 
 
 92 
 96 
 
 90 
 
 165 
 98 
 
 91 
 164 
 
442 INDEX. 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Sauces — Fish . 
 
 
 163 
 
 Semoulina Broth 
 
 • 
 
 . 42 
 
 Fumet, de Gibier 
 
 
 103 
 
 Milk . 
 
 • 
 
 . 42 
 
 Garlic 
 
 
 94 
 
 Shrimps, on 
 
 • 
 
 . 320 
 
 Garum 
 
 
 163 ; 
 
 Sauce 
 
 • 
 
 . 165 
 
 Sociorum 
 
 
 164 ; 
 
 to pick 
 
 • 
 
 . 320 
 
 Horse Radish 
 
 
 103 
 
 Sheep’s Brains . 
 
 • 
 
 194, 241 
 
 Italan Herb 
 
 
 93 ; 
 
 Feet, or Trotters 
 
 • 
 
 . 241 
 
 Jardiniere . 
 
 
 195 1 
 
 Stock from . 
 
 • 
 
 242 
 
 Jerusalem Artichoke 
 
 
 98, 99 
 
 Head . 
 
 • 
 
 193, 194 
 
 Liaison of Eggs . 
 
 
 94 
 
 Heart 
 
 • 
 
 . 249 
 
 Lobster 
 
 
 165 
 
 Kidneys 
 
 • 
 
 . 14, 241 
 
 New 
 
 
 166 
 
 Tongue, demi-glaze 
 
 • 
 
 . 249 
 
 a la Creme 
 
 
 166 
 
 Sheep, how to cut up 
 
 • 
 
 . 187 
 
 simplified 
 
 
 167 
 
 which are best . 
 
 • 
 
 . 187 
 
 Maitre-d’Hotel . 
 
 
 92, 170 
 
 Silver Jelly 
 
 • 
 
 . 354 
 
 Matelote . 
 
 
 169 
 
 Skate, to cook . 
 
 • 
 
 . 153 
 
 Simple . 
 
 
 169 
 
 au Beurre noir . 
 
 • 
 
 . 154 
 
 Mayonnaise 
 
 
 315 
 
 Curry 
 
 • 
 
 . 279 
 
 Melted Butter . 
 
 
 164 
 
 Smelts, Boiled . 
 
 • 
 
 . 55, 56 
 
 Mephistophelian 
 
 
 102 
 
 Broiled . . 
 
 • 
 
 . 56 
 
 Minced Herb 
 
 
 92 
 
 Fried 
 
 • 
 
 . 145 
 
 Mint . 
 
 
 94 
 
 for Invalids 
 
 • 
 
 „ 56 
 
 Muria 
 
 
 163 
 
 Water Souchet . 
 
 • 
 
 . 56 
 
 Sauce, Mushroom 
 
 93, 
 
 99, 101 
 
 Snipes a la minute . 
 
 • 
 
 . 2S3 
 
 Mussel 
 
 
 168 
 
 Snow Eggs 
 
 • 
 
 . 287 
 
 Onion 
 
 97, 
 
 99, 101 
 
 Soles, Small or Slips . 
 
 • 
 
 . 13,55 
 
 Orange 
 
 
 94 
 
 Boiled 
 
 • 
 
 . 152 
 
 Oyster 
 
 
 167 
 
 Fried . 
 
 • 
 
 . 150 
 
 Papillotte . 
 
 
 95 
 
 Fillets of Curried 
 
 • 
 
 . 278 
 
 Peas . 
 
 
 98, 100 
 
 aux Fines Berbes 
 
 • 
 
 . 152 
 
 Piquante . 
 
 
 92 
 
 a la Muniere 
 
 • 
 
 . 151 
 
 Quenelles . 
 
 
 100 
 
 Saute in Oil 
 
 • 
 
 . 151 
 
 Ravigote . 
 
 
 93 
 
 Souffle 
 
 • 
 
 . 367 
 
 Robert 
 
 
 93 
 
 Beignet 
 
 • 
 
 . 347 
 
 Demi-Glaze 
 
 
 91 
 
 Biscuit 
 
 • 
 
 . 369 
 
 Shrimp 
 
 
 165 
 
 Cheese 
 
 • 
 
 . 371 
 
 Soft Roe . 
 
 
 164 
 
 Coffee 
 
 • 
 
 369 
 
 Sorrel 
 
 
 98 
 
 Cream, Whipped 
 
 • 
 
 . 369 
 
 SoyePs 
 
 
 95 
 
 Lemon 
 
 • 
 
 367, 368 
 
 Sharp 
 
 
 92 
 
 Omelet 
 
 • 
 
 . 368 
 
 Spinach . . 
 
 
 98 
 
 Saut6 
 
 • 
 
 . 368 
 
 Tarragon . . 
 
 
 92 
 
 Cream 
 
 • 
 
 . 369 
 
 Tartar 
 
 
 102 
 
 Orange Flower . 
 
 • 
 
 . 368 
 
 Tomato 
 
 
 95 
 
 Orange Iced 
 
 • 
 
 . 36 6 
 
 Turnip 
 
 
 98, 99 
 
 Punch Cake . 
 
 • 
 
 . 366 
 
 "White 
 
 
 89, 96 
 
 Rice Cream . 
 
 • 
 
 . 368 
 
 Wild Boar’s Head 
 
 
 308 
 
 "Vanilla . . 
 
 • 
 
 . 370 
 
 Savoury Dishes 
 
 
 300 
 
 Soup, on . 
 
 • 
 
 104 
 
 Sauteing, on 
 
 
 72 
 
 Artichoke . , 
 
 • 
 
 111, 120 
 
 Sausage . 
 
 
 207 
 
 Autumn 
 
 • 
 
 . 118 
 
 Cake 
 
 
 253 
 
 Cabbage . 
 
 • 
 
 . 119 
 
 Sausages, to cook . 
 
 
 18 
 
 Carrot 
 
 • 
 
 . 121 
 
 Atherstone . 
 
 
 17 
 
 White 
 
 • 
 
 121 
 
 Cambridge. . 
 
 
 17 
 
 Clear. . : 
 
 • 
 
 108, 109 
 
 Oxford . . 
 
 
 18 
 
 Cauliflower . 
 
 • 
 
 121 
 
 to saute . . 
 
 
 18, 207 
 
 Conger Eel 
 
 • 
 
 126,127 
 
 with Turkey . 
 
 
 207 
 
 Crecy . 
 
 • 
 
 . 121 
 
 Seakale . . . 
 
 
 323 
 
 Fisherman’s 
 
 • 
 
 . 118 
 
 Sea-pie . . 
 
 
 268 
 
 Game 
 
 • 
 
 . 125 
 
INDEX. 
 
 443 
 
 Soup, Giblet 
 Hare . 
 
 Hotch Potch 
 Italian Paste 
 Irish . 
 
 Jenny Lind’s 
 Julienne 
 Lamb’s Head 
 Lentil 
 Macaroni . 
 
 Mock Turtle, Brown 
 White 
 
 Maigre 
 Mulligatawny 
 Mutton Broth 
 Onion 
 Ox Cheek 
 Ox Tail 
 Oyster 
 Palestine 
 Pea . 
 
 Pot-au-Feu 
 Printaniere 
 Rice . 
 
 Scotch Cock-a-leekie 
 Semoulina . 
 
 Spring 
 Sole . 
 
 Sheep’s Head 
 Turnip 
 Vegetable . 
 
 Vermicelli . 
 
 Sourer out,' to cook 
 Bavarian way 
 Soyer’s chop 
 Sauce 
 Brawn 
 
 new way of making Beef Tea 
 Sprats, to cook 
 Dried 
 
 Sprue-grass with Eggs 
 Steak, Rump . . .58 
 
 Stewed Beef 
 Stewing, on 
 Stock, on . 
 
 for all kinds of Soup 
 Brown 
 to Clarify . 
 
 Economical 
 Sheep’s Feet 
 Strawberry Ice Cream 
 Charlotte . 
 
 Jam . 
 
 Omelet 
 Salad 
 
 Vol-au-vent 
 Stuffing, Baked Fish 
 Goose 
 Turkey 
 
 PAGE 
 
 117 
 
 124 
 
 118 
 112 
 
 113 
 
 125 
 110 
 
 115 
 
 123 
 112 
 
 116 
 
 115 
 23,124 
 
 116 
 112 
 
 124 
 
 114 
 114 
 117 
 120 
 122 
 
 126 
 110 
 112 
 113 
 
 12, 125 
 110 
 
 118 
 115 
 111 
 109 
 111 
 330 
 330 
 245 
 95 
 310 
 38 
 14 
 14 
 286 
 179, 229 
 58 
 70 
 104 
 
 104 
 
 105 
 108 
 105 
 242 
 384 
 356 
 386 
 347 
 388 
 340 
 312 
 312 
 312 
 
 Stuffing, Veal . 
 
 Sucking Pig 
 
 Hind quarter of 
 Sugar, to boil . 
 
 colour. 
 clear . 
 in grains . 
 of Lemon . 
 
 Silk Thread, or spun 
 Vanilla 
 
 Sweetbreads, Roast . 
 
 au Gratin . 
 
 Sweet Lait de Poule . 
 Sweetmeat of Currant Jelly 
 
 Table, Breakfast 
 Tapioca Milk . 
 
 Tarts, small Fruit 
 Tea .... 
 how made in France 
 Beef . 
 
 new way to make 
 Teal, a new method of cooking 
 a la sans fa 9 on 
 Tench, Stewed 
 Toad in a Hole 
 Toast, Plain 
 Dry . 
 and Eggs 
 
 Toast and Haddock . 
 
 Herring 
 Kidneys 
 Sardines 
 Water 
 
 Tops and Bottoms 
 Trout a la Bretonne . 
 
 Pickled 
 River . 
 
 a la Twickenham 
 Trifles 
 Tripe Curry 
 
 Lyons fashion . 
 
 Turbot, to cook. 
 
 French way 
 a la Creme 
 
 Turbau of Almond Cake 
 of Croquettes 
 of Pastry . 
 
 Turkey, on 
 
 Boiled or Braise< 
 Broth from 
 Blanquette of 
 Boudins of. 
 with Celery Sauce 
 to choose . 
 
 Giblets 
 Gravy for . 
 
 Jerusalem Sauce 
 Galantine . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 311 
 
 201 
 
 201 
 
 3S1 
 
 380 
 
 380 
 
 380 
 
 380 
 
 382 
 
 380 
 
 238 
 
 239 
 
 41 
 387 
 
 1 
 
 42 
 342 
 
 23 
 20 
 38 
 
 24 
 285 
 285 
 159 
 272 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 51 
 
 6 
 
 157 
 
 157 
 
 157 
 
 157 
 
 357 
 
 277 
 
 227 
 
 147 
 
 148 
 148 
 372 
 262 
 372 
 205 
 208 
 209 
 261 
 262 
 209 
 
 205 
 219 
 
 206 
 209, 210 
 
 304 
 
444 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Turkey with Oysters 
 
 Parsley and Butter 
 Sausages 
 Sausage-cake 
 Roasted 
 
 Braised . . . 
 
 Stuffing for . • 
 
 to truss . . • 
 
 with Tomatos . . 
 
 Stewed . . . 
 
 Poults . . , 
 
 Turnip Soup, puree . . 
 
 PACK 
 
 208 
 
 209 
 205 
 
 207 
 205 
 
 210 
 210 
 
 208 
 209 
 211 
 289 
 121 
 
 Vanilla Ice Cream 
 Veal, on . 
 
 Breast of . 
 
 Stuffed and stewed 
 Curried 
 
 Broth 
 
 Strengthening 
 French fashion 
 
 Curry 
 
 Cutlets 
 
 aux fines herbes 
 en papillote 
 saut6 
 Chump of . 
 
 Fricandeau of . . 
 
 with all Sauces . 
 
 Fillet of, cold . . 
 
 Roasted 
 
 Forcemeat of . . 
 
 Galantine of . . 
 
 and Ham Pie 
 Knuckle of 
 Loin of 
 
 Roasted and Braised 
 
 382 
 
 180 
 
 181 
 
 183 
 
 275 
 
 37 
 
 37 
 
 36 
 
 275 
 
 239 
 
 239 
 
 240 
 240 
 
 181, 183 
 234, 237 
 236 
 307 
 180 
 311 
 307 
 266,300 
 182 
 181 
 183,307 
 
 Neck of, Braised . . 181 
 
 with Peas , . . 182 
 
 with Haricots . . 182 
 
 with new Potatoes . 182 
 
 Pudding .... 270 
 
 Shoulder of, stewed . . 184 
 
 Stuffed and Braised 184 
 Cold . . . 307 
 
 Roasted or Braised 181 
 Vegetables, to cook . . . 321 
 
 Artichokes. . . . 326 
 
 Jerusalem . . 325 
 
 Asparagus . . . . 321 
 
 Beans, French . . . 326 
 
 a la Maitre-d’Hotel 327 
 Gabanza . . . 329 
 
 Haricot, White . 328 
 
 a la Bretonne . 328 
 
 Kidney . . . 327 
 
 Windsor . . . 327 
 
 Beetroot . . . . 326 
 
 Broccoli . . . . 325 
 
 PAGK 
 
 Vegetables—Brussels Sprouts . 327 
 
 Cabbages .... 330 
 
 Carrots .... 331 
 
 Cauliflower . . . 325 
 
 grating with Cheese 325 
 Celery .... 324 
 
 Cucumbers . . . 326 
 
 Greens .... 330 
 
 Laver .... 330 
 
 Lentils .... 329 
 
 Marrow, Vegetable . . 325 
 
 Mushrooms . . . 328 
 
 Parsnips . . . . 331 
 
 Potatoes, their introduction 331 
 
 their effects . . 331 
 
 Baked . . . 331 
 
 Boiled . . . 331 
 
 Irish way . 333 
 
 Fried . . . 332 
 
 Fried—Mashed . 333 
 
 a la Lyonnaise . 332 
 
 a la Maitre d’Hotel 333 
 Mashed . . 332 
 
 Peas, Green . . . 322 
 
 French way 322, 323 
 Salsify .... 324 
 
 Savoys .... 330 
 
 Seakale .... 323 
 
 Sourcrout . 
 
 Bavarian way 
 
 Spinach 
 
 with Gravy 
 with Cream 
 Sprue Grass 
 Truffles, English 
 Saute of 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Vegetable Soup, puree 
 Venison, on . . 
 
 Haunch of 
 Neck of 
 
 Saddleback of . 
 Victimised Cutlets 
 Vol-au-Vent 
 of Apples . 
 Cherries . 
 
 Fruit 
 
 Gooseberries . 
 Oranges . 
 Peaches . 
 PJums . 
 Rhubarb 
 Strawberries . 
 
 of 
 
 330 
 
 330 
 327 
 327 
 327 
 323 
 329 
 329 
 
 331 
 120 
 202 
 202 
 203 
 203 
 256 
 
 337 
 340 
 339 
 33S 
 339 
 
 339 
 
 338 
 
 340 
 
 339 
 
 340 
 
 Water, on. 
 Barley 
 Fresh Fruit 
 Rice . , . 
 Souchet 
 
 86 
 
 44 
 
 47 
 
 44 
 
 56, 133 
 
INDEX. 
 
 445 
 
 Water Cresses, with Steak 
 
 PAGE 
 
 179 
 
 Whitings, Boiled 
 
 54 
 
 Broiled ‘ . 
 
 13, 54 
 
 Fried .... 55, 138 
 
 au Gratin .... 
 
 139 
 
 Forcemeat of . 
 
 320 
 
 Sauteed .... 
 
 55 
 
 Fillets of . 
 
 279 
 
 White Bait, to cook . 
 
 146 
 
 INDEX 
 
 TO 
 
 Apples, with Rice . 
 
 PAGE j 
 
 471 | 
 
 Custard of ... 
 
 472 
 
 Anti-Cholera Diet . 
 
 447 
 
 Brains, Fried .... 
 
 465 
 
 in Beignets 
 
 465 
 
 Summer fashion 
 
 465 
 
 Carving of Poultry . . • 
 
 451 
 
 Fish, Receipts for 
 
 461 
 
 Fisherman’s Food 
 
 461 
 
 George the Fourth’s Fruit Cake 
 
 470 
 
 Harricots, Brettonne Fashion . 
 
 460 
 
 Lamb’s Brain pudding 
 
 465 
 
 Mackerel, Pickled . 
 
 461 
 
 Melted Butter for Anchovy 
 Sauce, &c. 
 
 463 
 
 Mussels, Scalloped 
 
 463 
 
 New Tart .... 
 
 473 
 
 Oysters, Scalloped . 
 
 462 
 
 Ox Cheek, a la mode 
 
 465 
 
 Ox Foot, Boiled 
 
 464 
 
 with Sharp Sauce 
 
 464 
 
 Pancakes .... 
 
 473 
 
 Orange . 
 
 473 
 
 Paste, for Pies, Puddings, &c. . 
 
 470 
 
 Sweet Royal 
 
 470 
 
 Pastes Common, without Yeast 
 
 472 
 
 Pears with Rice 
 
 471 
 
 Pie, Calf Brain 
 
 465 
 
 Eel • 
 
 461 
 
 Kidney . 
 
 464 
 
 Labourer’s 
 
 468 
 
 Lamb & Parsley 
 
 469 
 
 White Bait Sauce 
 Woodcock, Hashed . 
 a la Lucullus 
 Sportsman’s fashion 
 Widgeon, Hashed . 
 
 Boasted . 
 
 Wine, Port, Negus . 
 White Fillip 
 
 PAGE 
 
 89, 96 
 2S3 
 
 283 
 2S3 
 285 
 
 284 
 
 402 
 
 403 
 
 Pie, Mackerel . . 
 
 Ox Kidney 
 Pilchard . 
 
 Potato 
 
 Pilchards, to pot 
 Prince of Wales’s Cherry Cake 
 Pudding, Kidney 
 Pudding Paste 
 Rice with Marmalade 
 Salad . 
 
 Sauce for Cod Fish . 
 
 Savoury Pudding, Paste for 
 Sheep’s Brains, black Butter 
 Head 
 Tongue 
 
 Soup, Beef Rice 
 
 Dutch Rabbit . 
 
 Harricot . 
 
 Irish Stew 
 Jerusalem 
 Lamb Broth Curry 
 Lentils 
 
 Mutton, Plain . 
 
 Onion 
 Pumpkin . 
 
 Puree of Carrots or Turnips 
 Split Pea . 
 
 Yeal Curry 
 Sugar Cake 
 Tendon Separator . 
 
 Yeal Broth 
 
 Pudding a la Lethwich 
 
 PAGE 
 
 461 
 464 
 
 462 
 469 
 461 
 472 
 
 464 
 467 
 474 
 
 461 
 
 462 
 467 
 
 465 
 
 464 
 
 465 
 
 458 
 
 459 
 
 460 
 
 458 
 
 459 
 
 459 
 
 460 
 
 457 
 460 
 459 
 
 459 
 
 460 
 
 458 
 472 
 453 
 458 
 
 466 
 
 SOYER’S CHARITABLE COOKERY 
 
 481 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 j ' ;' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 . 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 «'-!(! 
 
 ■ 
 
 ■.til*:.. 
 
 
 ■ • 
 
 .1 • 
 
 T, , , i- , .i, 
 
 , - 
 
 ■ 
 
 . . . •£«<! 
 
 't 1 ' ' *• - 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 ■ ■ 
 
 ■ 
 
 • • •' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 ■ ' ' ■ .* ' 
 
 
 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 LETTER No. XXVII. 
 soyer’s ANTI-CHOLERA DIET. 
 
 Eloise, —In answer to your unexpected letter, I beg you will not alarm 
 yourself respecting the present epidemic. “ Live well, fear not. This, I am 
 confident, is one of the most efficacious remedies, though this disease is still 
 on the increase, and somewhat alarming, and might affect you, being rather 
 a nervous subject: but you must agree with me that, in such circumstances, 
 the greater part of the multitude turn even the slightest derangement into 
 cholera. Only fix your attention on the daily report of the Board of Health, 
 and you will perceive that if 100 were daily to fall victims to the epidemic 
 out of a population of 2,000,000, it would be only one in every 20,000; 
 therefore you have 20,000 chances to one in your favour. But I must tell 
 you what I have got to-day by me in a bottle; viz. half a pint of lovage direct 
 from a distillery, and half a pint of the best pale French brandy; I will for¬ 
 ward you a bottle of it this afternoon, and in case you or your friends should 
 have any of the symptoms, which my medical man informs me show them¬ 
 selves in different ways, but generally in weakness at the pit of the stomach, 
 uneasiness, coldness, and giddiness, but especially sickness, you should take 
 immediately a wineglassful of it, send for medical assistance, get to bed, keep 
 yourself very warm until his arrival; you may take two more glasses every 
 ten minutes in case of his delay: to you, who are at some distance from his 
 abode, it may prove, if not useful, at least a consolation. This recipe was 
 given'to me lately by my old friend, Captain White, R.N., who was twenty- 
 five years in the East Indies: but I think you had better consult your doctor 
 about it; mine says that it is not bad, and perfectly harmless at any time; 
 and if it does not cure you, it will probably relieve the pain till he arrives. 
 
 But though, dearest, I may pass for being a tolerably good cook, yet I may 
 prove to be°a very bad doctor, if acting entirely on my own judgment; but I 
 may probably be of some utility to you in the way of diet, which, of course, 
 has a great influence upon the human body, especially m the present epidemic. 
 My diet, now that I am in a state of health, is as follows: I partake of lea* 
 vegetables, fruit, and fish than formerly, but still I partake of some, and m 
 addition, I have every day a good dish of boiled rice, which we partake of 
 instead of so many potatoes; we have often curry, and altogether a more 
 astringent diet than is generally necessary tor this time of the year, thus en¬ 
 riching the blood, which is less likely to decompose by the want of the proper 
 equalization in the electricity of which the atmosphere has latterly been de- 
 
448 
 
 FOOD IN CHOLERA. 
 
 prived ; but thanks now for the change which has taken place, we may shortly 
 hope for a permanent decrease, especially with the progress medical science 
 has made since the first appearance oi this awial visitation in Europe. 
 
 The following are a series of receipts which I have submitted to some 
 scientific men, which, after a few corrections on their part, have been pro¬ 
 nounced good, and which may be taken during the illness by those who have 
 the least tendency to it or fear of the cholera: 
 
 TO BOIL BICE.—Well wash half a pound of rice in cold water, which 
 throw away, put to boil half a gallon of water, in which put your rice, boil 
 six minutes; put on a sieve, butter slightly a stewpan, put in the rice, cover 
 over, set in the oven for fifteen minutes, or near a fire; it will then be white 
 and very digestible, still astringent, and every grain detached from each other; 
 if no oven or stewpan handy, boil in water fifteen minutes, throw on a sieve, 
 let drain a short time, serve on a dish, and eat plain, with salt, or as follows: 
 
 When the rice is done either way, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter 
 of an ounce of brown sugar, a little cayenne pepper, one ounce of salt butter, 
 mix lightly with a fork, and serve very hot; in case of slight derangements 
 increase the pepper. 
 
 Another .—Put in a spoonful of curry powder or paste, and serve. 
 
 Baked Rice .—Break two eggs in a basin, add a gill of milk, stir well, add 
 the rice, put in a pie dish, bake twenty minutes; serve with meat. 
 
 j Rice d I’Indienne .—Cut two ounces of lean bacon in small dice, put in a 
 stewpan, with a little butter and half a middle-sized onion, stir over the fire 
 with a wooden spoon, add your rice ready boiled, season as any of the above, 
 but less salt; add a spoonful of curry, no butter, mix well; serve very hot. 
 
 Mutism d VIndienne .—Put in a stewpan one ounce of butter, and one pound 
 of lean mutton (all meat), cut in dice, set on the fire, stir with a wooden 
 spoon till hardly any gravy remains, add a tablespoonful of curry powder, 
 and the same quantity of flour, mix well; add half a pint of water, two salt- 
 spoonfuls of salt, three ditto of sugar, let simmer gently till tender, which 
 depends what part you use, stir occasionally to prevent burning, add a little 
 more water if too thick; cut and put in, just before serving, three hard-boiled 
 eggs in large dice; serve rice, plain boiled as above, with it. 
 
 Por beef proceed precisely the same (with mutton), being most recom¬ 
 mended by the faculty; but any kind of meat or poultry, rabbit, &c., may be 
 cut small, and curried the same, as you must have perceived in my series of 
 curries. 
 
 TO YARY THE FLAVOUR, which is desirable when in good health, 
 inti’oduce a little eschalot or onions, bay-leaf or thyme, or half a clove 
 of scraped garlic, but all according to taste. 
 
 Indian Pudding .—If you happen to make double the quantity, and any 
 
FOOD IN CHOLERA. 
 
 449 
 
 remain from the previous day, prepare some rice curry with eggs, mix your 
 remaining meat curry with it, put in dish, and bake; serve hot. 
 
 I shall recommend (which is the opinion of my doctor) the lean part of a 
 fine mutton chop well peppered, a saltspoonful of cayenne and salts of celery 
 rubbed over; the darker red the flesh of the mutton, the more preferable; 
 the same with beef: cut a slice of the fillet, extract all fat, and cook the 
 beef like the mutton. 
 
 The leg of a chicken well peppered as above, broiled quite dry; boil two 
 eggs ten minutes, cut in four pieces, add a little pepper, salt, and a pat ot 
 butter, serve with it any small quantity of rice. (See Receipt 729.) Let 
 vour doctor select any of those dishes for you, though the complaint is the 
 same, our constitutions may require different treatment. 
 
 Broth being very seldom recommended for cholera cases, but essence of 
 beef and mutton may be taken by spoonfuls. (See Sick Room.) 
 
 To vary the food for persons who are fond of sweets, put two ounces of 
 rice, well washed, in a stewpan, add half a pint of milk, a pat ot butter, a 
 little powdered cinnamon, and a saltspoonful of sugar j when in rather thick 
 pulp, add the yolks of two eggs; serve round, to be eaten either hot or cold. 
 
 Prepare the same, but add a tablespoonful of tapioca and a little more milk; 
 place half in a dish, then some apricot marmalade or any jam, put the other 
 half over, place in the oven, sugar over, bake twenty minutes. For rice milk 
 (Riz au Lait), see p. 41; rice pudding, p. 52; but do not make them so 
 delicate, as solid food is preferable. 
 
 EGGS IN BUTTER.—Boil four eggs hard, cut them in slices, make in a 
 stewpan a little melted butter, put in the eggs, warm gently, add nutmeg 
 grated, and finely-powdered salts of celery, and serve. 
 
 Eggs Seasoned .—Cut an onion in dice, put in a pan on the fire half an 
 ounce of butter, turn on the fire one minute, add a little flour and a gill of 
 milk, boil five minutes, add four hard eggs, cut in large dice, season with 
 salt, pepper, and salts of celery, and serve. 
 
 WHEN CONVALESCENT.—If any beef-tea, or broth of any kind (see 
 Comforts for Invalids), make them stronger of meat. 
 
 CURRY CUSTARD.—Break three whole eggs in a basin, and beat them 
 up, add a quart of milk, a little salt, a very little sugar, and two teaspoonfula 
 of curry paste; bake in a dish or basin. This is very light and nutritious. 
 
 For those who can afford it, roast a leg of mutton, and when nearly done 
 put a hot dish under it, and with a sharp knife make several deep incisions 
 in every part of it, let it remain two minutes longer, that all the gravy may 
 fall into the dish, pour into a cup, take off the fat, and give to the patient as 
 may be required; the mutton will do for curry or hash for the family. 1 his 
 may be called gigot de mouton sacrifie; but when life may almost depend 
 upon this extravagance as you may call it, the expense must not be thought o.. 
 
 G G 
 
450 
 
 FOOD IN CHOLERA. 
 
 Mutton juice mixed with yolk, of eggs .—Put in a cup the yolk of a very fresh 
 egg and a spoonful of water, beat well, have your juice boiling hot, pour over, 
 mix quickly, give it immediately in small quantities, or as may be directed 
 by the medical attendant. 
 
 In the way of soup, mulligatawny and Indienne are most to be recom¬ 
 mended. 
 
 BEVERAGE.—Put a gallon of water in a pan to boil, add one pound of 
 rice without washing, a tablespoonful of barley, one of tapioca, boil slowly 
 half an hour, drain through a sieve, press the liquid from the rice with a 
 spoon, add a little powdered cinnamon and two ounces of sugarcandy; drink 
 when thirsty. 
 
 Another .—Boil a pound of rice in a gallon of water till quite a pulp, add 
 two tablespoonfuls of semolina at the same time as the rice, when in puree 
 add an ounce of butter, a little salt, two ounces of sugarcandy, and grated 
 nutmeg; drink it warm with a spoon. 
 
 I also put a little ground rice in my breakfast-rolls. 
 
I 
 
 ADDENDA (II). 
 
 CARVING OF POULTRY. 
 
 soyer’s tendon separator. 
 
 The engraving on the next page represents one of the most 
 serviceable of instruments. Its object is to relieve carvers, 
 more or less proficient, and must become indispensable for the 
 use of all cooks and poulterers in disjointing the volatile species 
 previous to trussing, roasting, or boiling. 
 
 To a clever carver, sitting at a homely table or a public ban¬ 
 quet, it matters little whether all eyes are fixed upon him or a 
 fidgety footman is at his elbow. He quietly distributes the 
 several dainties according to the fancy of the guests, and every¬ 
 thing goes on in comfort. But to a person inexperienced, the 
 notion of being placed at either end of the table, to stay the 
 ravenous appetite of some of the guests, causes such a nervous 
 excitement, that it is not an uncommon thing to see the splashing 
 of sauce and gravy on those around—perchance the sudden ap¬ 
 pearance of an unfortunate limb flying with terrific velocity on a 
 lady’s dress, the whole of the company being thus thrown into 
 confusion—the poor carver’s apologies received with black looks, 
 and the harmony of the party placed in jeopardy. 
 
 It is with a view to extricate society from such an awkward 
 position that the inventor offers to the public the Tendon Sepa¬ 
 rator, as a medium by which any gentleman may boldly take 
 the carving-knife in hand, and be delighted to comply with the 
 invitation of the Amphytrion: instead of inspiring fear, he will 
 be admired for his ability in gracefully dividing a favourite 
 piece of game or poultry. 
 
 The simplicity of the operation will easily convince any one 
 that the Tendon Separator possesses all that is required to 
 remove awkwardness in carving; the only necessity being to 
 
 G G 2 
 
CARVING OF POULTRY. 
 
 453 
 
 divide the tendons in the joints, the toughness of which is the 
 difficulty to be overcome, and often abandoned to make a 
 desperate cut at the bones; hence arise the accidents above 
 mentioned. 
 
 The following instructions will enable all cooks and poul¬ 
 terers to prepare game and poultry for the table, perfectly fiee 
 from opposition to any carver’s knife. 
 
 THE TENDON SEPARATOR 
 
 Is represented shut when done with, by merely slipping the 
 brass ring to keep the spring in its place, and open when in the 
 act of being used; the straight part of the handle, with the ring, 
 resting in the palm of the hand between the thumb and the fore¬ 
 finger? When about separating the tendons and otherwise 
 dividing other parts of your fowl or bird, you begin by turning 
 the skin over the wings and cutting the tendons (No. 1, p. 454) 
 in each of the joints; and then by taking hold of that part com¬ 
 monly called the drumstick, with your right hand, and the skin 
 being already turned, you can easily get at the joint (No. 2) by 
 making it come out, to cut the tendons of each leg; on turning 
 the Separator with the points upwards, you give a cut at the 
 breast-bone (No. 4); and, by holding the instrument with both 
 hands, immediately after turning the points downwards, you also 
 give a cut at the back-bone (No. 5), and then, the four tendons 
 being cut, the limbs are brought back to their former position. 
 Then you introduce the instrument into the body at the other end 
 of the bird, and with your left hand you take hold of the thigh¬ 
 bone, which you also divide at No. 3, and again turning the 
 points downwards, you give another cut at the back-bone No. 
 5; with little practice, the cuts at the breast and back-bone are 
 made without interfering in the least with the skin; then you 
 truss the bird in the common way, but a packing-needle and 
 thread are to be preferred. When roasted, the appearance 
 of the poultry is vastly improved by this simple operation, 
 it looks more plump on account of the sinews having lost 
 their power of contraction whilst roasting; therefore, when 
 the bird comes to table, the carver has merely to pass the 
 knife in the usual manner to take up the wings and legs, and 
 finds no resistance; the same at the breast and the back, where 
 
454 
 
 CARVING OF POULTRY. 
 
 it may easily be seen whilst carving that it has already been 
 prepared. 
 
 Three minutes is about the time taken by this new process 
 to cut into ten parts an ordinary fowl. 
 
 For a Turkey or a Goose, the sinews are divided as above, 
 and in the act of carving, instead of cutting the fillets in a 
 
 The half of a Foivl with the flesh on. The half of a Fowl with the flesh of. 
 
CARVING OR POULTRY. 
 
 455 
 
 straight line with the breast-bone, you separate them obliquely, 
 ^Pheasants, Ducks! and ail Wild Fowl especially, must be pre- 
 Pa A d Hare S OT Rabbit may also have the sinews and back-bone 
 
 divided; to effect this yon lay the hare upon its back, and giv 
 
 cuts nearly through the back-bone, holding the Separator with 
 both hands, through the belly part ; then you truss^t for roastin^ 
 If it should happen to be a very large hare, the filiate' 
 carved, and they ought to be cut in thin slices in an obliq 
 direction, instead of straight along the back. 
 
 A fowl which has been prepared with the Tendon Separator 
 before roasting, can produce" afterwards ten very inviting pieces, 
 suitable to the fancy of as many guests. 
 
 In the first place you take a carving fork, which .yon Stic m 
 
 the breast, between figs. 5 and 6, then you giv . f 
 
 fliw hpo-inninff at 1 down to 2; where you make the point ot 
 fte knife cut through the joint of the wing, which by atwisting 
 flHtie wUUasily cLe asunder. The same ciperatio^is done 
 
 the‘same direction as the 
 l”t numbers— -as each leg is divided at the joint commonly 
 called drumstick, it completes the ten parts. . 
 
 A Duck The best part of a duck is the breast which 
 should be cut in fillets obliquely, then the wings and the legs, 
 the same as the fowl, and the body in two. 
 
 A Pheasant. The best parts are the breast and legs, which 
 
 are carved the same as a fowl. 
 
 A Partridge. The wings and the body are the best parts. 
 
 downwardsto'obtafo 4 the fity^^^ *££ 
 
 -e, with the body, 
 
 excellent in a hash or stewed. 
 
456 
 
 CARVING OF POULTRY 
 
ADDENDA (III). 
 
 LETTER No. XXV. 
 
 Camilla Cottage, Nov. 29, 1852. 
 
 Dear Eloise, 
 
 Previously to giving you my “ Cottage Keceipts,” I must inform you 
 that my batlerie de cuisine, though very small, is most useful for all my little 
 made-dishes. I have three black saucepans, one gallon copper stewpan, a la 
 vallon one, a double and a single gridiron, a large and small frymgpan two -urge 
 tinned copper spoons, one ladle, two wooden spoons, two sieves, one of wire, one 
 paste brush, a rolling-pin, one kitchen knife, a steel, a meat-saw, a chopper, sma 
 mortar, pair of scales, six various sized brown basins, two round towels, ti 
 kitchen cloths, two tart dishes, and a good-sized earthenware pan, in which 1 
 make the beef a-la-mode, which you are so fond of. I think my kteh™ a 
 perfect little model, a regular little bijou defamdle: contrary to any othei 
 woman I left our parlour to be furnished last, and with all my heart set to 
 purchasing and providing for my little culinary sanctorum, the whole of whose 
 contents I purchased for less than seven pounds, the copper articles being - 
 
 hand So , ou will perceive that T was not very extravagant; but as many cotta es 
 have only me or two black iron pots, one fryingpan and a gridiron for all t heir 
 .astronomic exertions, I will in many instances only use these three cooang 
 
 Ut The 1 following is a series, as you will easily perceive, of simple and cheap 
 receipts, which, in our present station of life and country appetite, we m 
 excellent, nutritious, and economical. With regard to the Soup, some i 
 serve the meat separately, with a little sharp sauce, but not quite so nc . 
 described at page 77. Being desirous that the middle class should be e s c - 
 nivorous and more frugivorous, I beg them to make plentiful use of the following 
 receipts, especially for different Soups, which are at once simple and economical. 
 
 1 PLAIN MUTTON SOUP.—I cut two pounds of scrag of 
 mutton in about ten pieces, but not too small; put it in th&gallon 
 iron saucepan, with one ounce of salt, some pepper, two onions cut 
 
458 
 
 NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 in slices, one ounce of dripping, and a gill of water; set the sauce¬ 
 pan and fry on the fire, stirring it round now and then, till hardly 
 any liquor remains at the bottom, then add a gallon of water, 
 skim as soon as it boils, add a quarter of a pound of barley; 
 when boiled two hours, it will be done. Pour into a tureen, 
 meat and all, remove the fat on the top, if any, and serve. If 
 you have any leeks, celery (tops and all), carrots, turnips, &c., 
 handy, you may cut some in dice and put them in with the 
 barley; they will be an improvement; but be careful not to put 
 too much. 
 
 2. IRISH STEW SOUP.—Cut a pound of mutton as above, 
 fry and season in the same manner, only add double the quantity 
 of pepper, add two quarts of water, boil very gently; in short, 
 proceed as with the above soup; peel, wash, and cut in slices a 
 pound of potatoes, add them to the soup; boil till the whole forms 
 a puree, and serve; a few leaves of parsley, a few marigold flowers, 
 or a pinch of thyme, or bay-leaf, or winter savory, and spice, 
 will be a good variation. This soup I repeat here for the pur¬ 
 pose of making it popular; nothing can be better, and more 
 economical for a numerous family, by, of course, increasing the 
 quantity as required. 
 
 3. BEEF RICE SOUP.—Cut one pound of leg of beef, or 
 trimmings of beef, free from too much fat and bone; put it in 
 your saucepan, with two onions, two cloves, or turnips, leeks, 
 celery, &c.,—in fact, use what you have,—about a quarter of a 
 pound of vegetables altogether; add half an ounce of salt, a 
 little pepper and sugar, one ounce of dripping, a gill of water; 
 fry as for mutton soup; add two quarts of water, two ounces 
 of rice, boil slowly till both meat and rice are tender, and serve. 
 
 4. VEAL BROTH.—Make in the same manner, but some¬ 
 times vary with vermicelli, semolina, tapioca, sago; these are 
 all now very cheap, on account of the people understanding very 
 little the use of them. 
 
 5. VEAL CURRY SOUP.—Cut the veal as for beef soup, 
 fry also in the same manner, then add a tablespoonful of curry 
 powder, the best and cheapest you can get, add one apple cut in 
 dice, a tablespoonful of flour, stir round; pour on it two 
 quarts of water, stir till it boils, add one ounce of rice, simmer 
 gently till tender, serve in a tureen. 
 
NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 459 
 
 6. LAMB BROTH CURRY. —Proceed.exactly as above. 
 
 7. DUTCH RABBIT SOUP.—These gigantic Dutch qua¬ 
 drupeds are sometimes so plentiful, that I can buy twelve pounds 
 at the rate of fourpence a pound, perfectly fresh and good. 
 
 I partly cook them the first day, and can then keep them a 
 week if I like. They may be dished almost in any way, tor 
 which refer to our work; but, for soup, I proceed exactly as 
 for veal curry soup, increasing the proportion accordingly. 
 
 By the bye, Eloise, the other day I bought a large slice of pumpkin for two- 
 pence, and did not knowhow to cook it when I arrived at home Mr B. laughed 
 heartily at my being caught, as he said, in my own trap; but Stop said l, 
 
 “ till to-morrow, and see.” 
 
 8. PUMPKIN SOUP.—I peeled off the rind, and cut the 
 pumpkin into small pieces, placed them in a stewpan, and just 
 covering them with water, let them boil gently till t 
 whole was reduced to a pulp. I then added a quarter ot a 
 pound of butter, two ounces of sugar, a pint of milk, a qw-fea 
 of an ounce of salt; the whole must often be well stined, and 
 served with sippets of toast. We all found it very nice; so my 
 twopence was not wasted, you see; and I received great praise. 
 
 It filled a large tureen. 
 
 9 JERUSALEM SOUP.—Cut two onions in slices, put 
 them in a saucepan, with two ounces of dripping or salt butter; 
 let fry a few minutes; cut twelve peeled Jerusalem artichokes 
 in slices, put them in and fry ten minutes, add a pint of water, 
 one ounce of salt, a little pepper, and sugar; when your arti¬ 
 chokes are tender by simmering, add a large tablespooniul o 
 flour add two quarts of fresh buttermilk or water; cut some 
 thin slices of toast into dice, put them in a tureen, pour over 
 
 them your soup, and serve. Two ounces of lean bacon may e 
 introduced in frying it. 
 
 10 PUREE OF CARROTS OR TURNIPS may be made 
 as above, only the carrots must be cut thinner and cooked 
 
 longer. 
 
 Do you know, dear Eloise, that above 100,000 bushels of haricots and lentils, 
 which furnish so nutritious a food, remain year after year in the warehouses un¬ 
 sold, while in France they form an important part of the peoples food; dressed m 
 the following manner they make an excellent and economical dis . 
 
460 
 
 NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 1). HARICOT.—For fourpence you may procure a quart of 
 haricot beans; if you can obtain those of the present year, so 
 much the better, if not, you must boil them a little longer; put 
 them in a stewpan with a gallon of water, two ounces of butter, 
 one ounce of salt; set on the fire, and when boiling, allow them 
 to simmer for at least three hours, or till quite tender; strain off 
 all the water, which set aside for soup; add to your haricots 
 a quarter of a pound of butter or dripping, half an ounce of salt, 
 a teaspoonful of pepper; toss all well together in your stewpan, 
 and serve; you will thus have a most excellent dish of good food. 
 Chopped parsley may be added. 
 
 12. HARICOTS, BRETTONNE FASHION.—Put in a 
 saucepan two ounces of dripping and four onions sliced; fry of 
 a brownish colour, then add your haricots, already well boiled; 
 season with salt, pepper, and serve. Should you have a roast 
 leg, shoulder, or loin of mutton, put them in a dish, and the 
 mutton upon them. This is a most economical and delicious 
 dish for a numerous family. 
 
 13. LENTILS are very plentiful and cheap, almost every¬ 
 where; but I believe it is only in France that this vegetable is 
 appreciated as it deserves. Boil a quart of lentils in a saucepan 
 with half a gallon of water, add a very small piece of butter, 
 half an ounce of salt, a little pepper; let simmer for two hours, 
 or till quite tender, and finish the same as for haricots, and 
 serve in the same manner. A piece of bacon or pickled pork 
 may be boiled with them. Serve together, and save the 
 broth. 
 
 14. ONION SOUP.—Very good onion soup may be made 
 from the broth of either haricots or lentils. Cut in slices four 
 large or six small onions, fry in dripping or butter till they 
 brown, add a tablespoonful of flour, stir round, and pour your 
 haricot or lentil broth over; boil up once and it is ready. Cut 
 in thin slices half a pound of bread, place at the bottom of the 
 tureen, pour your soup over and serve. Any stale bread may 
 be used. It requires no more seasoning. 
 
 15. SPLIT PEA SOUP. — Cut two ounces of bacon or 
 pickled pork in dice, put it in a stewpan with two onions cut 
 in slices, fry together for a few minutes; put a pint of split 
 peas and four quarts of water, simmer until in puree; add one 
 ounce of salt, half that quantity of sugar, a litjle pepper, and 
 serve. Dry mint and a few vegetables may be added, if handy. 
 
NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 461 
 
 16. EXCELLENT SALAD IN HOT WEATHER—Let 
 me persuade you to try this salad, with either any haricots, 
 lentils, or potatoes, you may have cold; put a pint of either in a 
 salad-bowl, if potatoes, cut them in dice, put to them one table¬ 
 spoonful of onions chopped small, a little parsley, tarragon, or 
 chervil, if at hand, a tablespoonful of vinegar and three of oil, 
 toss well together and serve. 
 
 17. RECEIPTS FOR FISH.—Sea-fish are very dear here, 
 and even fresh-water fish are scarce sometimes; however, I often 
 obtain a piece of codfish, halibut, plaice, or a few flounders, soles 
 very seldom; mackerel, herrings, and sprats, are tolerably plentiful. 
 By way of fresh-water fish, small pike, eels, carp, and gudgeons. 
 
 I have discovered no new way of dressing them than our original 
 receipts, except the few methods I now send you. I beg to 
 refer you to our article fish, from page 110 to 143. The only 
 alteration, I am now obliged to economize a little .with my 
 butter and anchovy, and use only the most simple receipts. 
 
 18. MACKEREL PIE.—Cut two mackerel in four pieces 
 each, which roll in flour, place them in a pie-dish, season with 
 half’an ounce of salt, pepper in proportion, a teaspoonful of 
 chopped onions, fennel or parsley may be added; add a gill ol 
 water, cover with a common crust, and bake thoroughly. 
 
 19. EEL PIE.—Proceed in the same manner; omit the 
 fennel, add instead a little thyme or winter savoury; a little 
 drop of sherry is a great improvement. This is very good 
 
 C °20. FISHERMAN’S FOOD.—Cut in slices any kind of 
 white fish, season as for mackerel; mix two ounces of flour 
 smooth in cold water, about the thickness of thin melted butter 
 put your fish in a pie-dish, pour the flour and water over and 
 bake slowly till done and well set. 
 
 21. PICKLED MACKEREL.— When mackerel are plenti¬ 
 ful I pickle them thus: lay six mackerel in a pie-dish, season 
 with one ounce of salt to an ounce of whole pepper, two onions 
 sliced, a few sprigs of parsley, halt a pint ot vinegar, halt a pint 
 of water; cover over with a dish, bake slowly in the oven for 
 an hour; sweet herbs and bay-leaf may be added. Heilings and 
 sprats may be cooked in the same manner, giving less time in 
 proportion. 
 
 22. TO POT OR MARINATE PILCHARDS, (Corn¬ 
 wall Fashion.)—Take one hundred very fresh pilchards, clean, 
 
162 
 
 NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 take off the scales and heads, lay two hours in salt and water, 
 then drain all the water from them; mix two pounds fine salt, 
 two ounces ground pepper, two ounces ground allspice, quarter 
 ounce ground nutmeg, quarter ounce pounded cochineal; lay 
 some of this in the inside of each fish, then lay them in tiers in 
 a deep pan, with a few bay-leaves, and with whole pepper 
 between each tier, then fill with best vinegar, cover the pan or 
 jar with strong white paper, and bake in a very slow oven for 
 six hours. 
 
 The above will do equally well for herrings, mackerel, or 
 conger eels; the same compound is very good for sprats, but 
 the vinegar should be diluted as one to three. 
 
 23. PILCHARD PIE.—This is a most sumptuous dish. 
 Clean your pilchards as for potting, lay them in with pepper 
 and salt, cover with very nice paste, bake about an hour; when 
 done remove the cover, pour off all the fat, and pour on, for a 
 large pie, half a pint of cream, and serve. 
 
 Mackerel are very good in the same way. 
 
 24. SAUCE FOR COD FISH.—Oysters being dear, I 
 make mussel sauce, which is very fine and cheap. I well wash 
 two quarts of mussels, put them in a pan with a little sliced 
 onion, a little parsley, set on the fire for ten minutes or a 
 quarter of an hour till they are open, pick them from the shell, 
 beard them, pull away the small tuft of hair which is in every 
 one of them, now and then you will find a small crab in them, 
 which remove; this done, put them in a small pan, pour over 
 them the liquor from your mussels, mix one ounce of flour with 
 two ounces of butter, set the mussels on the fire, when boiling 
 add the butter, a little pepper and sugar, drop of milk, stir round 
 till boiling, and serve rather thick. 
 
 When oysters are cheap I open a dozen, put to them a gill of 
 water, two cloves, a little pepper and sugar, blanch them very 
 slightly; mix the butter and flower like the above, stir round, add 
 a gill of milk, and serve rather thick, with a little cayenne. 
 
 25. SCALLOPED OYSTERS. —Put about half a gill 
 of water as above, when well blanched, add the butter mixed 
 with flour, stir round, keep it thick, put them back in their 
 shell with their sauce, three in each, cover thick with bread¬ 
 crumb, set them in the oven until brown, and serve. 
 
NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 463 
 
 26. SCALLOPED MUSSELS.—Proceed as before, fill the 
 largest of your shells with them, bread-crumb them as above; 
 they are most delicious, and make a very recherche dish at a 
 trifling expense. Mussels are not unwholesome if cleaned and 
 cooked as above described. 
 
 27. MELTED BUTTER for ANCHOVY, SHRIMP, 
 and MUSTARD SAUCE.—Melt in a pan two ounces of 
 butter, add a tablespoonful of flour, salt-spoonful of salt, half 
 that of pepper, stir round, pour over two gills of boiling water, 
 stir again till smooth, serve plain. Chopped parsley and a little 
 vinegar will vary its flavour, and is good with any fish, boiled, 
 broiled, or fried. 
 
 If anchovy, add a tablespoonful of anchovy or Harvey’s 
 sauce, or Soyer’s Relish. For herrings add a teaspoon!ul of 
 fresh-made mustard. Fennel, gherkin, or caper sauce may also 
 be made with the same melted butter. 
 
 Fritadela (No. 242) are very commendable for a numerous 
 family. 
 
 LETTER XXYI. 
 
 Last market-day I bought the following provisions for three shillings ancl three¬ 
 pence .—An ox cheek and palates, ox foot boiled, two sheeps heads, twelve sheeps 
 brains, one ox kidney, twelve onions, a few leeks, carrot, turnips, a little thyme, 
 bay leaves, a few cloves, salt and pepper. I cooked the whole of them by way 
 of making experiments for receipts. 
 
 Eirst, with the bones from the ox cheek and trimmings, I made in my small 
 bread pan a very nice little fot-au-feu t as No. 225; only to save trouble 
 and time, I put everything in at once, and omitted a few things I was short of, 
 and very good it was, I assure you. To keep the whole of my provisions sweet, 
 as soon as I got home I put my large pan, half full of water, over the fire; when 
 boiling I put in for a few minutes the ox cheek, took it out again, dried it with 
 a clean cloth, rubbed it very slightly with salt, and hung it up in a current of 
 air; it will then keep a week or ten days in winter. I also sawed the sheep’s 
 heads in two, lengthways, Washed them well, took out the brains and boiled (the 
 pieces of the head w'ith the two tongues in the same water as the cheek was 
 boiled in) for ten minutes; cut all the under-bone away, and put them in my 
 yot-au-feu. You will perceive that I lost nothing. I proceeded as with ox- 
 cheek, I hung them till wanted : the brains I washed well in lukewarm water, put 
 them in a saucepan with a quart of cold water, half a gill of vinegar, an ounce of 
 salt, two slices of onions, six sprigs of fresh parsley, boiled them gently twenty 
 
464 
 
 NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 minutes; put them into a pan in a cool place: all these safely preserved, I began 
 to cook the ox kidneys in the following manner:—(Calf, lamb, and sheep’s liver 
 may also be dressed the same as the following dish.) 
 
 28. OX KIDNEYS.—Cut in thin slices the fleshy part of 
 the kidney, put the white part in your pot-au-feu. Put in the 
 fryingpan two ounces of either butter, dripping, or lard, set on 
 the fire when very hot, put in the pieces, fry quick, and toss or 
 stir almost continually till rather firm, add to them two teaspoon¬ 
 fuls of flour, one of chopped onions and parsley, half an ounce 
 of salt, quarter ounce of pepper,and stir round; mix with two gills 
 of broth or water, let simmer five minutes, and serve. The 
 addition of a glass of sherry for those who can afford it, is an 
 immense improvement, also a few mushrooms. 
 
 29. KIDNEY PIE.—Fry slightly, and season as above, but 
 when about half done, put in your pie-dish with a gill of water, 
 and cover with thin paste (No. 50), bake half an hour, and serve. 
 
 30. KIDNEY PUDDING.—Proceed as above, only add to it 
 when fried, half a pound of tender rumpsteak, cut small, and 
 some of the fat. 
 
 Another way. —Line a basin rather thinly with paste (No. 44), 
 put in the meat prepared as above, tie in a cloth, and boil half an 
 hour. Twelve mussels blanched, or six large oysters, are very 
 good in it. I sometimes flavour it with a little thyme, or winter 
 savory, or bay-leaf. 
 
 31. BOILED OX FOOT.—I cut it in two, long way, boil 
 half in water, in which I introduce a few herbs and onions; 
 I make half a pint of rather thick melted butter, in which I 
 place a few parsley leaves, and a little vinegar. Dish up and 
 sauce over. For Tripe, see 549. 
 
 32. OX FOOT WITH SHARP SAUCE. — Proceed as 
 above; put in your melted butter two tablespoonfuls of Soyer’s 
 Relish, and no vinegar. Sauce over; those gelatinous substances 
 are naturally insipid, and require to be highly seasoned. 
 
 33. SHEEP’S HEAD.—Put the four pieces of the head 
 in the pan, cover them well over with water, and make mutton 
 broth as No. 1. Eat the broth, and dress the head as fol¬ 
 lows:—egg and bread-crumb the fleshy part of the cheek; put 
 
NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 405 
 
 them in the oven for twenty minutes, dish up and serve with 
 brown sauce as for ox feet; or take the brain, which boil as 
 directed at the end of my Letter XXVI., cut them in large pieces, 
 warm in melted butter and serve under. 
 
 SHEEP’S BRAINS—BLACK BUTTER. 
 
 34. Cook the brains as above-mentioned, drain them on a dish; 
 put in a fryingpan a quarter pound salt butter, set on the fire 
 till nearly black, throw in ten sprigs of parsley, three table¬ 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, half ounce of salt, quarter ounce pepper, 
 pour over the brains, and serve very hot. Another sauce for 
 brains:—warm and dish some, make melted butter as for ox feet, 
 add to it half gill of milk, and a little lemon juice, and serve. 
 
 35. FRIED BRAINS.—Dry on a cloth, egg over in bread 
 crumb; put some oil, butter, lard, or dripping in a frying-pan, 
 about half inch thick, when hot fry them in it; throw little salt 
 and pepper over, serve on a napkin, if for a neat little party; 
 parsley fried looks very well over, previously boiled as above. 
 
 36. FRIED IN BEIGNETS.—Prepare as above, but in¬ 
 stead of eggs and crumb, make a little batter as No. 772. Dress 
 them, and fry nice yellowish colour; serve very hot. 
 
 37. BRAIN SUMMER FASHION.— Chop fine a few 
 green onions and parsley, put in a basin, with salt and pepper, 
 two spoonfuls of vinegar, four of oil, stir round, pour over the 
 brain which you have taken cold from the liquor. 
 
 38. SHEEP’S TONGUES.—Boil them with the head for 
 S0U p— s kin them, sauce over with either white or brown sauce, 
 as for feet. 
 
 39. LAMB’S BRAIN PUDDING.—Proceed as for sheep’s 
 brain; line a basin with paste, No. 44, lay in the brains, add to 
 them thin pieces of bacon, pour in little melted butter, tie it in 
 a cloth, boil half an hour, turn out, and serve. 
 
 40. CALF BRAIN PIE.—Proceed as above, mix with it 
 bacon, mushroom, the same sauce; cover, bake the pie as usual 
 in a quick oven, and serve. Calves’ brains may be dressed as 
 sheep’s brains in various ways. 
 
 41. OX CHEEK A-LA-MODE.—I sometimes lard them, 
 then put in my little pot-au-feu pan two onions cut cross in the 
 
 H H 
 
406 
 
 NEW COTTAGE KECEIPTS. 
 
 bottom, one pound of lean bacon cut in large dice. I then put 
 the two cheeks, the gelatinous part of a previously boiled ox- 
 foot over, season with two ounces of salt, half ounce black 
 pepper, four sprigs of thyme, two bay leaves, six or seven 
 cloves, sprigs of parsley, cover with four more onions, four more 
 pieces of bacon, add half pint of water, put the cover over, 
 make a little paste with flour and water, as thick as for tarts, 
 wet the rim or the joint of your pan, cover it with your 
 paste to keep the contents of it free from air, set in a slow 
 oven or send to a baker for three hours; remove the lid, and a 
 most delicious fragrance will exhale from it; take out the herbs 
 and fat with a spoon, dish your onions and bacon and ox-foot 
 round the dish, put the cheeks in the centre, pour the rich 
 gravy over, and I assure you. dear Eloise, that you never have 
 eaten anything more delicious, as a savoury dish; the poor people 
 buy those excellent things, ox cheek, but merely boil them in 
 water for one hour, and try to masticate them, all for want of 
 that which I often entertain you about—a common School of 
 Domestic Economy; which one single lesson, I am certain, would 
 teach them better. 
 
 42. Another Way .—Cut the cheek lengthway, the bacon and 
 ox-foot the same; put in the pan as above with some season¬ 
 ing, and bake, let it get partly cold before opening, take the herbs 
 and fat off, arrange symmetrically in a deep pie dish, entirely 
 mixing bacon, meat, and vegetables together, pour the gravy 
 over, press lightly, when cold, turn it out on a dish; it is most 
 relishing, and will keep for days very good; cut across in thin 
 slices, it will be very inviting for any season of the year.* 
 
 43. YEAL PUDDING A LA LETHWICH. 
 
 Pear Eloise, —Having just been presented with an excellent receipt of a 
 pudding worthy of a gala day, I cannot resist giving it immediate publicity. 
 
 The crust of this pudding is made with veal suet instead of 
 beef; the inside is lined completely with thin slices of undressed 
 ham, and is then filled up with alternate layers of lean veal cut 
 from the kidney end of the loin, also thin slices of the kidney with 
 a little of the fat, and add 12 oysters as a variation, for oysters 
 
 * I cooked a rabbit in this way yesterday, and it was exquisite, I merely added 
 two carrots, cut in slices, and baked it one hour and a half. 
 
NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 467 
 
 mushrooms may be added, bat oysters are preferable; boil the 
 pudding according to the size, and serve; mutton pudding and 
 lamb done in the same way is excellent, but the meat should be 
 cut from the leg or the loin end of either. The seasoning for 
 the above pudding is composed thus,—salt, pepper, two shalots 
 chopped fine, two pinches of dry thyme in powder, and a table¬ 
 spoonful of fresh parsley, chopped well; mix the whole, and 
 season gradually while you are filling the pudding. 
 
 Observe that I do not mean to classify this disb among our Economical Receipts, 
 for, let me tell you that the gentleman to whom we are indebted for this receipt 
 is one of the most sensible gourmets of the age, il deguste toujours enmangeant; 
 he is more—he is a profound writer on the gastronomic art. 
 
 44. PUDDING PASTE.—Chop rather fine three ounces of 
 suet, put in a basin with half a pound of flour, a quarter of an 
 ounce of salt, rub well together; add one egg, and a wine glass¬ 
 ful of water; form a nice paste, not too firm or too soft; use 
 also for suet pudding. 
 
 45. PASTE FOR SAVOURY PUDDING.—I often intro¬ 
 duce in the paste, for change, a little chopped parsley, a little 
 shalot, winter savory, or thyme; these herbs cost very little, 
 and are relishing and wholesome. 
 
 Mutton suet, veal, lamb, or even pig’s fat, make a good 
 variation in paste. 
 
 LETTER XXVII. 
 
 PHYSIOLOGY OP TARTS, PIES, AND PIECRUST. 
 
 Dear Eloise, 
 
 No matter how ridiculous it may appear to Mrs Smith, or Mrs. Brown, or 
 Mrs. Any-body-else, do not omit to give room to the following remarks on pies. 
 Never mind how simple these remarks may seem to you—the million will under¬ 
 stand them well. For example, where is the little boy or little girl in Great Britain 
 who has not eaten pies sweet and savoury; from childhood we eat pies—from 
 girlhood and boyhood we eat pies—from middle age to old age we eat pies— 
 in fact, pies in England may be considered as one of our best companions 
 de voyage through life. It is we who leave them behind, not they who leave us, 
 for our children and grandchildren will be as fond of pie as w r e have been. There¬ 
 fore it is needful that we should learn how to make them, and make them well 1 
 Believe me, I am not jesting, but if all the spoiled pies made for the dinner of 
 
 H H 2 
 
468 
 
 NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 one single Sunday in London, were to be exhibited in a row, near a railway line, it 
 would take above one hour, by special train, to pass in review those culinary 
 victims : therefore see the importance of the subject if we could only rescue every 
 year to proper standing half a mile of pies and pie-crust, I think we should de¬ 
 serve a piece of plate, or, at least, apiece of one of onr disciples’ pies. Gaze with 
 admiration and horror on these two family portraits. 
 
 LETTER XXVIII. 
 
 Ma chere Amie, 
 
 I received your note of yesterday too late to answer it, but pray do 
 not be alarmed; no insurrection will take place among the pie-making people. I 
 merely wish that the greater part of those who make them badly should improve; 
 that is the height of my expectations. 
 
 But to follow my economical study, then, I mean to give you receipts for 
 a series of pies for all classes of society, I feel in duty bound to begin with the 
 Labourer’s Pies, who generally can afford to dine in his family but "once a week, 
 and that on the Sabbath-day. 
 
 The following will replace the aristocratic joint, give them a welcome varia¬ 
 tion, and save nearly one half the cost of their previous Sunday dinner. 
 
 46. LABOURER’S PIE.—For the following I purchased 
 last market day at 3d. a pound, four pounds of mixed pieces, or 
 odds and ends of meat, with very little bone in it, all very fresh; 
 the large pieces I cut to bring them all about equal in size, then 
 put on a large dish, I cut four pounds of peeled and well-washed 
 potatoes, in rather thick slices, put them over, then peel and 
 slice thinly two large or four middle sized onions, add over all 
 two ounces of salt, half ounce of pepper, mix the whole well 
 together, to take equal share of seasoning; put in a large pie- 
 dish one piece of meat, then slices of potatoes edgeway; continue 
 the same until your pie is full, terminate the top so as to form a 
 dome, rising about two inches in the middle above the rim, put 
 in half pint of cold water, then comes the most important part. 
 
 47. When your paste is carefully made, (No. 50 or 53,) which 
 requires no more time than doing badly, and your pies and tarts 
 properly full, this is the last and most important process in pie 
 or tart making:—Everybody (you say, Eloise) knows how to 
 make either. So they pretend.. Well, I assure you, that 
 among the artisans in this neighbourhood, whom I now and then 
 
PHYSIOLOGY OF TARTS, PIGS ARD PIG CRUST. 
 
 PORTRAIT OF AN APPLE PIE AS IT OUGHT TO BE 
 
 TAKEN FROM STILL LIFE 
 
 Lf ^H 0 -— 
 
 STRIKING LIKENESS OF AN APPLE TART IN A FIT ASTHEY 
 OFTEN ARE (taken'from real life) 
 
 Made with the same materials at “'“^.^^uted^by twe 
 
 iStfem^iaemtisS 6 ' We KgS that neither portrait is signed. 
 Having, seen 
 
 *Z ; e afte P r Waiting till they were done, she penned me *at about 
 
 Pie was then delivered to her. 
 
 “ A few minutes after,” says 
 
 a black and still blacker hands, wrth^he^hairmoatmg^ J ^ 
 
 called for Mrs. Jenkins s Apple Tart Mo. f iti nice and 
 
 exclaiming very loudly as she took it up, 
 
 smoking hot.’ 4 
 
 .. i n the crowd,” says my Mary, “ I lost sight of both tarts. 
 
NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 469 
 
 visit in their dwellings, for the purpose of teaching them a few 
 profitable family dishes—I can tell you, without jesting, that I 
 have seen as many as six country wives out of half-a-dozen who 
 had literally spoiled both food and the appearance of their tarts ( 
 and pies; they seemed to have been unfortunate enough to 
 have all been favoured with the same receipt. Therefore I 
 be" of you to let me have my own way, and tell the uninitiated 
 housewife that she will economize and fare better by making her 
 
 pies thus:— , . , 
 
 Throw a little flour on your paste-board; take about ban a 
 pound of your paste, which roll, with your hand, say an inch in 
 circumference; moisten the rim of your pie-dish, and fix the 
 paste equally on it with your thumb. When you have rolled 
 your paste for the covering of equal thickness, in proportion to 
 the contents of your pie (half an inch is about correct for the above 
 description), fold the cover in two, lay on the half of your pie, turn 
 the other half over, press slightly with your thumb round the rim; 
 cut neatly the surplus of your paste, form rather a thick edge, 
 which mark with a knife about every quarter of an inch from 
 each other; mark, holding your knife in a very slanting way, 
 which gives it a very neat appearance; make two small holes 
 on the top. Egg over with a paste brush; if no eggs, use a 
 drop of milk or water; the remaining paste may be shaped 
 to fanciful designs to ornament the top. Notice, that it your 
 paste is either too thick or too thin, the covering too narrow 
 or too short, and require pulling one way or the other to make 
 it fit, your pie is sure to be imperfect, the covering no longer 
 equally protecting the meat. It is the same with fruit; and it 
 the paste happen to be rather rich it pulls the rim of the pie to 
 the dish, soddens the paste, makes it heavy, and therefore in¬ 
 digestible as well as unpalatable; a little practice and common 
 sense will remedy all those little housewifery tribulations, and 
 probably improve the appearance of this series of tart, No. 
 
 48. THE POOR MAN’S POTATO PIE.—Wash and 
 peel six pounds of good potatoes, cut in slices, take one pound ot 
 fat mutton or beef cut into small dice, mix the whole with 
 pepper and salt, cover with 51 paste, and ba'e one ioui an 
 
 half, and serve. 
 
 49. LAMB AND PARSLEY PIE.—Take a large quantity 
 of fresh parsley, pour on it boiling water, drain and press out all 
 
470 
 
 NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 the water, then cut up a breast of lamb in small pieces, and lay 
 in a layer of meat and a layer of the parsley until full, then 
 cover with paste 50. Season with salt and pepper. 
 
 50. PASTE FOR PIES, PUDDINGS, TARTS, AND 
 CAKES.—Put in a pan half pound of flour, quarter pound of 
 dripping, quarter ounce salt, rub the whole well together for about 
 two minutes, add by degrees a gill of water, mix your paste 
 well, which requires to be very hard; throw a little flour on 
 your board, roll, and use it as you like. For half Puff Paste, 
 see Pastry. 
 
 51. Another Way .—Three ounces of dripping make good 
 paste, even two,for meat pies, especially where there are children; 
 of course, instead of dripping, suet chopped fine may be used, also 
 lard or butter; if I make this crust for fruit pies, I generally 
 add a little sugar to the paste. 
 
 52. Useful to the Middle Class .—When I am short of dripping 
 I buy two or three pounds of beef or mutton suet, cut in small 
 dice, put it in a pan with gill of water, set on a slow fire, when 
 well melted and very clear I add an ounce of salt, a few sprigs 
 of thyme, two bay leaves; pass it through a clean cloth into a 
 jar, when cold, cover it over with a piece of bladder; it will 
 keep good for months; use when required for either sweet or 
 savoury pies. Omit the herbs for the first. 
 
 Here is a little bit of extravagance from the Camelia Lady, as they call 
 me here, having christened my small abode “ Camelia Cottage,” instead of 
 “ Rabbit Cottage,” which I consider a very unclassical name. 
 
 53. SWEET ROYAL PASTE.—Put in a basin one pound 
 of flour, half a pound of fresh butter; rub both well together with 
 your hand; make a well in the basin; add six yelk of eggs, 
 quarter of an ounce of salt, two ounces of white sugar, on the 
 lump of which you have rubbed part of the rind of an orange 
 or lemon previous to pounding it; mix gradually your flour and 
 yelk, and enough cream or milk by degrees to form a rather 
 stiffish paste; when very smooth, use it where described. Any 
 kind of fruit pie, tart, or almost any pastry with fruit or jam, 
 may be made with this paste. For Puff Paste, see 731. 
 
 54. GEORGE THE FOURTH’S FRUIT CAKE—Roll 
 half pound of the above paste, about quarter inch thick, shape 
 it as round as possible, turn the eggs half an inch round, form 
 
NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 471 
 
 ti kind of rim, whieli mark with the back of a knife, peel six 
 good apples, cut in quarters, make six deep incisions an inch 
 each, without cutting them through, place them respectively 
 round on your paste, the large part upwards, when fill very 
 closely with one single row, only cover over with two ounces 
 pounded sugar, in which you have put a little powdered cinna¬ 
 mon, break ten pieces of hard butter, which place over, and 
 then bake in any shape, and serve hot or cold; brown sugar may 
 be used. 
 
 Another Way .—Boil half an ounce of ground rice in half 
 pint of milk, with little lemon peel, add to it one ounce of 
 butter, two of sugar, two eggs previously beaten, mix well and 
 pour over your apples, which is then prepared as above, and 
 bake ; the rim must be made about half-inch thick. 
 
 55. PEARS WITH RICE.—Boil quarter pound of rice in 
 milk, add a little salt butter, a small piece of cinnamon or lemon 
 peel; simmer gently till tender; add two ounces of sugar and 
 an egg; stir quick. Peel and cut in dice six eating pears; put 
 them in a stewpan with one ounce of sugar, a little water, 
 boiled a few minutes till forming a syrup; put a layer of rice 
 on a dish half-inch thick, then a layer of pears, rice, and pears 
 again, throw sugar over, bake for ten minutes; give nice colour 
 with a salamander. Semolina, sago, or tapioca, may be used 
 instead of rice; also, to flavour, orange and lemon peel may be 
 used. 
 
 56. APPLES WITH RICE.—Prepare rice as above; peel 
 six apples in slices across, quarter-inch thick, put butter in 
 clean fryingpan, sprinkle sugar over that; place your^ sliced 
 apples over it (having taken the core out), sugar over again; set 
 on the fire for a few minutes, turn them when done. Put rice 
 and apple as above; they are to be kept very white. 
 
 57. When the apples (say twelve) are done, dish them up 
 round, symmetrically, one-half over the other; put two table 
 spoonfuls of currant jelly in the pan with a glass of port wine, 
 sherry, or brandy; warm well and throw over. 
 
 58. Take a penny fresh loaf, cut it in thin slices, cover 
 over with sugar; bake them in the oven till crisp; add one 
 slice between each slice of apples, it will be a change; any 
 other jam will do the same. The slices may be toasted. 
 
472 
 
 NEW COTTAGE EECEIPTS. 
 
 59. CUSTARD OF APPLES.—Boil half ounce of ground 
 rice in a pint of milk, with a little lemon peel; add to it one 
 ounce of butter, two of sugar; when nearly cold, add to it one 
 egg well beaten, pour over your apples, which have been pre- 
 pared as for common tarts, bake in a slow oven for nearly one 
 hour; when done, put one ounce of white sugar over, mix with 
 little lemon; put back for ten minutes, or salamander over with 
 red hot shovel. Serve hot or cold. 
 
 60. PRINCE OF WALES’S CHERRY CAKE—Proceed 
 for your paste as No. 54. Stone a pound of good cherries, place 
 them flat on your paste, put two ounces of powdered sugar 
 over, bake half-an-hour; break the stones, put the kernels in a 
 small stew pan, with half an ounce of sugar, a glass of brandy 
 or water; boil a few minutes, pour the syrup over your cherries 
 and serve cold. 
 
 Raspberry and Currant, Black Currant, Mulberry, Cranberry, 
 are made the same. No syrup required. 
 
 61. SUGAR CAKE.—Put in a pan one pound and half of 
 flour, one pound of butter, quarter pound of powdered sugar; rub 
 the whole well together, moisten with lukewarm milk, in which 
 you have dissolved half ounce of German yeast; the consistency 
 of this paste must be only little firmer than bread dough; de¬ 
 tach it well from the pan with your hands, by throwing in a 
 little flour; roll it in a lump, place it back in the pan, cover 
 with a cloth, set in a warm place to rise for one hour, and use 
 it as follows:—Clean and well butter a baking sheet, put your 
 paste on your board with a little flour, roll flat about one inch 
 in thickness; lay your sheet square or round, make rather a 
 thick rim, mark round with a knife in a slanting way, prick it 
 through several times with a fork, water it over with a paste¬ 
 brush, put in a nice slow warm oven; when nearly done, sugar 
 over rather thick, put it back to bake, or salamander over; a little 
 lemon, orange, cinnamon, may be introduced in the sugar. 
 This is an excellent tea-cake. Serve it whole, or cut in various 
 shapes. 
 
 Tarts of every description, or puddings, may be made with 
 this paste, and also used for the Prince of Wales’s cherry cake. 
 
 62. COMMON PASTE WITHOUT YEAST—Put one 
 pound of flour, quarter pound of butter, little sugar, salt very 
 little, moisten with warm water, or milk, as above; bake same as 
 
NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 473 
 
 above, only, when half done, take a quarter pound butter, put it 
 all over your cake in small bits; put back for ten minutes, 
 sugar over with a little cinnamon; colour it with a red-hot 
 shovel, and serve as you choose, but in various shapes. 
 
 Preserved ginger may be put on the top, and cui rants, laisins, 
 or sultanas. 
 
 63. PANCAKES.—Break two eggs in a basin, add to it a 
 drop of milk, a little salt, half ounce of sugar, beat well with a 
 fork, add to the whole quarter pound of flour, stir well, to make 
 a very smooth paste, mix with a cup of milk by degrees; put 
 one ounce of butter, lard, or good dripping, in a fryingpan; when 
 rather hot, put three or four table spoonfuls of your batter. 
 When cooked on one side, turn over and let it be done the same 
 on the other, then lay it on a baking sheet; cut some peeled 
 apple in thin slices, cover your cake with a layer of it, add some 
 brown sugar, in which you have mixed a little ground cinna¬ 
 mon; make another pancake, which put over this; lay on a little 
 sugar, and bake a quarter of an hour; serve hot. It is also good 
 
 cold. 
 
 Pears may be used instead of apples. 
 
 64. ORANGE PANCAKE.—Peel two nice oranges, cut 
 them in slices crossways, cover your first pancake with them, 
 sugar over according to taste; lay the other over, sprinkle with 
 white sugar, bake, and serve. 
 
 Among my little culinary innovations I am rather pleased with my new 
 tart. Almost every great co*ok has invented a new pudding, while the humble 
 and hereditary tart has remained for centuries as it was when our ancestors 
 were children; it is, therefore, time to make a start, no matter how, and laise 
 tarts to that position they so highly deserve. 
 
 65. NEW TART.—Peel some apples, cut them in rather thin 
 slices, boil quarter pound rice in quart of water till tender, put 
 in a sieve; when dry put in a basin, add two ounces of sugar, m 
 which a little cinnamon has been mixed, with two ounces of 
 butter; stir lightly, put a layer of rice and a layer of apple 
 alternately till full; add a little more sugar on the apples; make 
 the border of your dish damp, put on a thin rim of paste ( No. 
 50) round it; make a good thick pancake, like No. 63, it must 
 be under-done; moisten the rim of paste, place it over, fix it by 
 damping the rim of the cake; fix artistically another thin band 
 of the same paste, trim neatly, egg over, sprinkle sugar, bake as 
 
474 
 
 NEW COTTAGE RECEIPTS. 
 
 usual, and serve. In omitting the rice, apple may be used alone. 
 Any fruit may be introduced. Serve hot. 
 
 66. Mr. B. and I have come to be so fond of rice, that we 
 hardly ever pass a day now without having some on our table. 
 When just boiled, drain it on a sieve, put back in a stewpan 
 for a few minutes, on a very slow fire to dry, put in a little salt, 
 pepper, and an ounce of butter; stir lightly with a fork, and eat 
 it with meat, or any solid food, instead of potatoes: it is a very 
 generous food. 
 
 67. RICE WITH MARMALADE. — Two nice chubby 
 little girls, who live close to us in the lane, came unexpectedly 
 to see me the other day; having nothing sweet to give them, 
 I put into my rice, which was waiting for our dinner, instead 
 of salt, a spoonful of apple marmalade—they found it delicious 
 (you might use gooseberry, currant, raspberry, or strawberry 
 jam for the same purpose); it was so simple and so good, that 
 we have had it several times since with currant jelly. 
 
 I cannot recommend a better pudding for Christmas than your No. 803. 
 
 NOTICE ON SAUCES. 
 
 The following is an extract from the Analytical Sanitary 
 Commission, as published in the Lancet, December 4th, 1852:— 
 
 “ Soyer’s Sauce Succulente. — Purchased of Messrs. 
 Crosse and Blackwell, 21, Soho-square. This sauce is thick, 
 pulpy, and of a reddish-brown' colour. It contains vinegar , a con¬ 
 siderable quantity of tomato, wheat-jlour, shallots, garlic, red- 
 currant jelly, several herbs, &c. In flavour, it is exceedingly 
 delicate and agreeable.” 
 
 “ Soter’s Relish.— Purchased of Crosse and Blackwell, 21, 
 Soho-square. This sauce is likewise of a reddish colour; it is 
 much hotter than the former sauce, and contains tomato, shallots', 
 soy, &c., and other flavouring ingredients. No lead nor copper 
 either in this or the preceding sauce.” 
 
 SOMETHING NEW. 
 
 Sogers Aromatic Mustard will shortly be introduced 
 on everybody’s table. 
 
SOYEK’S 
 
 CHARITABLE COOKERY 
 
 OR 
 
 floot ittan’s megenerator. 
 
 . - 4f , 
 
 Economy with the affluent, in times of distress, is a crime; 
 While doing good with little means is a virtue. 
 
 A. Soyek, 
 
 Author of ^The Gastronomic Regenerator." 
 
This Charitable Work has been patronized by the following 
 noble and distinguished personages:— 
 
 His Excellency, the EARL OF BESBOROTJGH, Lord-Lieutenant of 
 
 Ireland, &c. &c* 
 
 The Right Honourable the LORD MAYOR OF DUBLIN. 
 
 Her Grace the DUCHESS OF SUTHERLAND, 
 
 „ „ LEINSTER, 
 
 „ „ BEDFORD, 
 
 The LADY EMILY A. M. PONSONBY, 
 
 „ HARRIET F. A. PONSONBY, 
 
 „ KATHLEEN LOUISA G. PONSONBY, 
 
 His Royal Highness PRINCE GEORGE OF CAMBRIDGE, 
 
 His Grace the DUKE OF LEINSTER, 
 
 The MARQUIS OF DOURO, 
 
 The Right Hon. EARL FORTESCUE, 
 
 HOWTH, 
 
 CHARLEMONT, 
 LICHFIELD, 
 
 The Most Reverend and Right Honourable BISHOP OF NORWICH, 
 „ „ „ DURHAM, 
 
 VISCOUNT RANELAGH, 
 
 )) 
 
 33 
 
 33 
 
 33 
 
 33 
 
 33 
 
 Lords, 
 
 DUNCANNON, SAYE and SELE, 
 
 LISMORE, MARCUS HILL, 
 
 PANMURE. FITZROY SOMERSET. 
 
 Sir P. CRAMPTON, Bart., 
 
 Sir H. MARSH, Bart., 
 
 Sir R. ROUTH, 
 
 Sir J. BOURGOYNE, 
 
 Sir C. CHETWYND, 
 
 G. ROE, Esq., High Sheriff of Dublin, 
 
 Reverend E. S. ABBOT, 
 
 „ Dr. O’CONNELL, P.P. 
 
 „ J. CONNELL, 
 
 Admiral DUNDASS, 
 
 FREDERICK DUNDASS, Esq., M.P. 
 
 T. M. GRESHAM, Esq. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 During my mission, to Ireland, at the request of the Govern¬ 
 ment, in 1847,—the year of the famine,—I wrote a small work 
 on cheap food, entitled, “ The Poor Man’s Regenerator,” 
 which there became very popular, though but little known in 
 England. The extensive sale I obtained for this work induces 
 me to add it to this New Edition of the Modern Housewife. 
 
 At a time when a deluge of rain is pouring on the face of 
 the globe, I consider my Charitable Receipts will prove most 
 useful to Riclv Families, Parish Overseers, Charitable Com¬ 
 mittees, and even to Tradesmen and Farmers; for when four 
 gallons of good soup may be obtained for one shilling, there are 
 few who cannot afford, in time of need, to relieve the surround¬ 
 ing poor; for no one suffers so much from the inclemency of 
 the weather as the poor, under their shaky habitations. 
 
 Let all Ladies pay a visit to that new and benevolent Insti¬ 
 tution, the colossal City Soup Kitchen , lately opened by the 
 Lord Mayor, where hundreds of persons are daily relieved by 
 means of subscription; they will then be convinced what can be 
 done with the surplus of food daily wasted, by thousands of tons, 
 in as well as out of this great metropolis. It will also give an idea 
 to the Public and my Subscribers what good was done through 
 the support I received from so many Ladies, Noblemen, and 
 Gentlemen, in aid of erecting my Model Soup Kitchen in 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Dublin; and will show the numerous imitators I have through- 
 
 O 
 
 out the kingdom, which are yearly on the increase. 
 
 I have also reproduced here the important Report made by 
 the Board of Guardians of the South. Dublin Union, which gives 
 a correct account of food made and distributed; the number of 
 people fed there, and the unprecedented saving made by the 
 adoption of my system; as well as the extreme facility for the 
 distribution of aliments daily given to from 15,000 to 20,000 
 people, without the slightest confusion,—a plan which I would 
 strongly recommend to the public, especially at a time of 
 national festivity or thanksgiving. 
 
 THE GREAT CITY SOUP KITCHEN, 
 
 VICTORIA STREET, EARRINGDON STREET. 
 
 Food for from eight to ten thousand persons may be cooked daily by entirely 
 new cooking gas apparatus, which has been admirably executed by Messrs. 
 Smith and Philips, of Snow Hill. 
 
 Having been consulted by the Committee of this unique Charitable Institution, 
 to whom I gratuitously offered my services for the planning and designing of the 
 Kitchen department, including the Refectory, and also the manner of distributing 
 food for outdoor relief the whole of which is done daily without the slightest 
 confusion or hindrance ,—I proposed to those benevolent persons a plan which, 
 if followed, would prevent starvation among the deserving poor in the great 
 metropolis. This could readily he effected by daily collecting the waste pro¬ 
 visions throughout the fish, meat, and vegetable markets of London; also, the 
 surplus of club houses, hotels, and eatiug houses, the proprietors of which 
 establishments would prefer giving in charity that which was before in general 
 turned to no account, if assured that they would experience no trouble or incon¬ 
 venience. The addition of three more such establishments would effect this 
 veiy great desideratum, and would add much to the merit of the undertaking, 
 though great praise is already due to the Committee and their indefatigabl 
 Secretary. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 TO THE FIRST EDITION. _ 
 
 Though I have fulfilled my promise by giving publicity to my 
 receipts for food, which I have composed for the poor, it has 
 been suggested to me by the benevolent, to publish a small 
 pamphlet with the following receipts, which might prove useful 
 to humanity at large, having the great advantage of being very 
 cheap and easily made. I have also added a few simple receipts 
 for dishes, which may be made at a trifling expense, by copying 
 which, every labouring family may reduce their expense, and 
 live much better than they have hitherto done. The best 
 means of preserving health, with a due amount of labour, is to 
 use a wholesome and digestive food, which, fortunately for her 
 children, nature has abundantly produced, and has most won¬ 
 derfully disposed the digestive organs of every individual to act 
 in accordance with their peculiar habits. The mendicant eats 
 with the greatest pleasure a piece of brown bread or potato, 
 which acts more generously on his system than the best of food 
 that could be placed before the greatest epicure with a satiated 
 palate. 
 
 Equality of trouble and pleasure are fairly distributed over 
 the human frame in every class of society, but when entirely 
 deprived of food, the greatest suffering acts upon it, and often 
 makes a thief of an honest man, or a murderer of a civilized 
 Christian ; for, on this all-important point, nature loudly speaks, 
 and a strong appetite never jokes. 
 

 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ’ i 'n 
 
 
 t ■ » 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 vi 
 
 
 
 o • 
 
 1 <n 
 
 -■'ir'h m 
 
 
 
 
SOYER’S CHARITABLE COOKERY. 
 
 ADDRESSED TO THE WORLD IN GENERAL, BUT TO 
 IRELAND IN PARTICULAR. 
 
 As one of yourselves, allow me to make an appeal to your good 
 sense. 
 
 You have heard, dear brethren, the distant sounds of distress, 
 misery, and starvation in different parts of the kingdom ; who¬ 
 ever has a feeling heart must shed a tear and pray tor the relief 
 of the hungry. 
 
 In every part of the country the sympathy is great, and it 
 appears that, in some respects, you had foreseen the awful 
 visitation now inflicted by Providence. # . 
 
 By the patient perseverance of your proceedings certain' 
 laws were or have been abolished, to enable you to obtain a 
 more plentiful supply of cheap food. 
 
 YYhen the advantages of new laws seemed likely to spread 
 abundance over the land, that every sensible man congratulated 
 his neighbour on the victory obtained, all was cheerfulness and 
 hope, but the expected blessing vanished like a shadow—symp¬ 
 toms of scarcity began to be heard from different parts of the 
 globe, and like the distant rumbling of an earthquake, soon 
 reached, by giant strides, the shores of Ireland, where the 
 failure of the potato crop was no longer doubted. 
 
 In the midst of these increasing difficulties, the prudent and 
 watchful eye of your government laid-in provisions from distant 
 shores, and distributed with care, in time of need, the produce 
 
 of the public purse. > 
 
 The evil making further progress, crossed the Irish Channel, 
 to the north of Scotland—again the hearts of the benevolent 
 
482 
 
 s oyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 called forth public charities—streams of gold poured forth to 
 arrest, if possible, this dreadful calamity—public prayers were 
 addressed to the Omnipotent—your good Queen, at the head of 
 her parliament, recommended new laws for the relief of her 
 people—they were unanimously granted, but still thousands of 
 your fellow creatures in Ireland are numbered among the dead 
 for want of food. To hear of this through the public press 
 makes a feeling heart bleed ; but what is it when compared to 
 those who are actually starving ? it is too dreadful to think of, 
 and no language, however impressive, can describe those deso¬ 
 late and harrowing scenes of misery and death. 
 
 Your sovereign, her wise councillors, and the majority of 
 your representatives, joined you in that popular cause, and you 
 have been triumphant. 
 
 The spirit of commerce, so well understood in your favoured 
 country, set all its sinews at work, and brought forth from all 
 parts of the world, every available sort of provision to supply 
 your wants ; to a certain extent your wishes have been accom¬ 
 plished ; but permit me to ask you, “What are the efforts, even of 
 a civilized nation, against the will of the Almighty ?” With 
 me you will justly answer, “Useless.” 
 
 That some wise purpose is intended cannot be denied, which 
 I shall endeavour to prove in the sequel. Turning my mind to 
 this public calamity, a thought struck me, that all the evil could 
 not be laid entirely on the failure of potatoes, and if so, that 
 other produce of the land and waters, coupled with foreign 
 provisions, if economically employed, could arrest the further 
 progress of scarcity; but to effect such desirable and public 
 object, with every chance of success, I claim your assistance, 
 and beg to ask you, whether it would not be advisable “ to use 
 and not abuse nature’s productions?” I do not mean to tax you 
 with waste and extravagance, but merely to impress upon your 
 minds that the country produces plenty of vegetable and animal 
 substances, and the waters washing your magnificent shores 
 teem with life, which the all-wise Providence has given as 
 food to man, and that they only require to be properly employed 
 to supply the wants of every one with good, nourishing, and 
 palatable food ; and I may venture to affirm, that fifty per cent, 
 could be economized by a new system of preparation. Taking 
 all this into serious consideration, no time is to be lost. Let me 
 therefore entreat you to take care that nothing is wasted in the 
 
SOYER’S CHARITABLE COOKERY. 
 
 483 
 
 way of food, either individually or collectively, in any family in 
 the kingdom ; that point immediately put into practice will be 
 a public benefit, and a duty towards the destitute; and then, by 
 giving you the means of using, with more advantage, every 
 description of eatable production, so bountifully spread over the 
 land and in the ocean, you shall gradually see, with the help of 
 the Supreme Being, plenty smile on the lips of all. It was all 
 these serious reflections which induced me to write the following 
 letter to the principal journal of the metropolis :— 
 
 SOYER/S KITCHEN AND SOUP FOR THE POOR. 
 
 « g IR) —Amongst all terrestrial afflictions which occasionally 
 oppress humanity, famine is the most redoubtable. It is to be 
 deeply regretted that at the present time this evil goddess of terror 
 rides Victoriously through the greater part of Europe; though 
 the starvation is Continental, need I say that Ireland and Scot¬ 
 land are the greatest sufferers of that awful calamity. Seeing 
 daily in the public press the charitable efforts of thousands of 
 good people, and the incessant distribution of food, but still the 
 distress on the increase instead of coming to a close, has induced 
 me to visit several charitable institutions, and to taste the soup 
 which is given, with the very best of intention, to the poor; but 
 which, I must observe, does not answer the purpose it is in¬ 
 tended for, I having found the greatest number of makers of 
 this soup entirely ignorant of the advantages resulting from the 
 numerous ingredients of which they may be composed, and 
 instead of producing a wholesome and nutritious aliment, has 
 often the contrary effect, particularly to a stomach in a state of 
 starvation. In some of the soups I tasted, I have mostly found 
 a great want of proper seasoning, which not only flatters the 
 palate, but, when added, restores and strengthens the digestive 
 organs.* I also found that the rice, split peas, barley, and any 
 substance of that nature, were generally under-done, and often 
 the whole contents tasted as if burned, and that for want of 
 proper vessels and practical knowledge of cooking. Above twenty 
 years’ experience and practice in the culinary art has taught 
 me that it requires more science to produce a good dish, at a 
 trifling expense, than a superior one with unlimited means; and 
 I shall have no difficulty to prove the truth of the observation. 
 
 * As Hippocrates justly said, “ That which pleases the palate nourishes.” 
 
 I I 2 
 
484 
 
 soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 “ Finding, besides, in many instances, very great confusion in 
 the distribution of the soup, the same quantity (or nearly so) 
 being given indiscriminately to each applicant without cor¬ 
 rectly ascertaining the number of persons in each family. After 
 seriously reflecting on this all-important and pressing subject, I 
 am happy to inform you, Mr. Editor, that I have contrived the 
 plan of a kitchen for the making and distribution of soup and 
 food to the poor, of a very simple construction, by which a 
 thousand gallons, more or less, of excellent and very economical 
 food may be made in a very few hours, at about two or three 
 farthings a quart, which could be fairly, cleanly, and quickly 
 distributed to thousands of people once or twice a day if 
 required. I do not mean to choose any particular ingredients, 
 but merely the production of any county in the United Kingdom, 
 and if some parts should be entirely deprived of provisions, the 
 cheapest that could be obtained would do. The simplicity of 
 the plan (as I before observed) consists in the use of two uten¬ 
 sils of some importance, and may be made on any scale, accord¬ 
 ing to locality, and by which, from fifty to one thousand or 
 more applicants could be supplied with food—those kitchens 
 could be erected temporarily in a public place or a field. Mr. 
 Editor, I am so confident of the success of the undertaking, that 
 I not only offer my humble services gratuitously, by giving the 
 plan and superintending the fittings of the first kitchen that 
 may be erected, and give publicity to the receipt for making 
 the soup; but, independently of that, I beg to offer £30 as my 
 subscription towards the immediate erection of those indispen¬ 
 sable establishments, which would at once relieve, efficaciously, 
 the greatest number of sufferers. Having just submitted and 
 minutely explained my plan to a scientific friend, he generously 
 offered, in addition to my subscription, £20, being together 
 £50, which will be deposited in the hands of a charitable com¬ 
 mittee, where a general subscription will be opened. 
 
 “ I shall do myself the pleasure of forwarding to you, Mr. 
 Editor, the receipt for making the soup in a very few days, 
 being now seriously occupied in experiments to bring it to the 
 greatest perfection, as a valuable and economical nourishment 
 for the necessitous. 
 
 “ I am, Sir, most respectfully yours, 
 
 “ A. SOYER. ,, 
 
 “ To the Editor of the Times.” 
 
soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 485 
 
 To my great satisfaction, I then received many letters of 
 congratulation and several sums of money from benevolent 
 persons to second my project of building a model kitchen, for 
 the preparation of food for the poor, and according to promise, 
 
 I published my second letter, which was as follows:— 
 
 M. SOYER’S NEW FOOD FOR THE POOR. 
 
 “ Mu. Editor, —In returning my most sincere thanks for the 
 benevolent intentions which prompted you to publish, so 
 speedily, my letter of the 10th inst., relating to my new kitchen 
 and soup for the poor, in your valuable journal, I beg the inser¬ 
 tion of the two following receipts, which, if closely followed, 
 would confer an immediate benefit, not only to the poor, and 
 various charitable institutions, but also to the labouring popula¬ 
 tion of the United Kingdom. I much regret the delay that has 
 taken place since the publication of my former letter, which has 
 unavoidably occurred, the time being consumed in experiments 
 which I have made with various kinds of farinaceous ingre¬ 
 dients, produced and imported into this country; and likewise, 
 with some of the immense varieties of vegetables, cultivated 
 with so much success in this favoured soil; but which, generally 
 speaking, are not sufficiently appreciated, or used to the greatest 
 advantage by the industrious classes. 
 
 “ My intention is, with your kind permission, not only to 
 publish the receipt for one kind of soup or food, but for five or 
 six, the whole, however, being made on the same principle as 
 the first, to save any confusion in the making; hoping they may 
 prove advantageous, by giving a change in food, which acts as 
 generously on the digestive organs as a change of air does on 
 the convalescent, and likewise to prevent the rise in any par¬ 
 ticular articles; for should the soup be approved of, and become 
 a chief article of consumption, for a certain time, such a receipt 
 would be quite useless in some parts of the country where the 
 ingredients could not be obtained. JVIy sincere devotion to this 
 important cause being, to take every possible advantage of every 
 kind of nutritious substances, animal and vegetable, and fish, 
 and to convert them, by study and judgment, into a wholesome 
 and cheap aliment for the millions. 
 
 “ Several hundreds of letters I have already received upon the 
 subject, have induced me to give immediate publicity to the 
 
486 
 
 SOYER’S CHARITABLE COOKERY. 
 
 two following receipts, which I consider quite correct. Having 
 thus stated my impressions upon this all-important subject, I 
 now give you the result of my first economical study to produce 
 a cheap and wholesome food.”—See Receipts Nos. 1 and 2. 
 
 In making these first receipts public, I did not suppose that 
 they would meet with the entire approbation of the nation, par¬ 
 ticularly by those who imagine that nothing can be good except 
 plenty of animal food is used for the subsistence of man. I 
 shall not enter into a culinary digression to prove it, but I am 
 so satisfied of the failure of the quantity of nourishment gene¬ 
 rally obtained by those who cannot make anything good, even 
 with plenty, for want of having the practical judgment, that I 
 make bold to affirm, that the little animal substance I recom¬ 
 mend, if closely followed, will produce all the nourishment re¬ 
 quisite when amalgamated in the way described. 
 
 As regards the peelings and ends of vegetables which I use 
 in my receipts, it is a well-known fact, that the exterior of every 
 vegetable, roots in particular, contains more flavour than the 
 interior cf it; which is my reason for recommending only the 
 washing well of those vegetables before they are cut for use, 
 thereby increasing the vegetable produce of the country, and 
 using that which has hitherto only increased the ‘ malaria ’ of 
 our courts and alleys by its decomposition. 
 
 Having thus explained my reasons, I now give publicity to 
 my receipts for making soups and other dishes in this form; 
 which I trust will prove useful to the benevolent and the whole 
 laborious and industrious population of the country, and pro¬ 
 duce economy in all charitable institutions, and comfort in every 
 cottage. 
 
 Almost all the productions of nature can be made available, 
 and produce wholesome and nutritious food foi man. The 
 following is a short list, taking them in rotation, according to 
 the quantity of nutriment they contain:—Beef, mutton, venison, 
 pork, veal, lamb, hare, rabbits, bacon, lard, dripping, butter, oil: 
 of farinaceous substances ,* Indian corn, wheat, rice, barley, rye, 
 buck-wheat, oats, peas, beans, lentils: of vegetables and roots — 
 
 * Indian corn contains 750 parts of starch, 205 gluten, 30 sugar, 15 
 tannin. Potatoes contain 200 parts of starch, 40 gluten, 20 sugar. 
 
soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 487 
 
 rams potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips, turnips, carrots, 
 mangel wurzel, onions, leeks, green peas, cauliflowers, celeiy, 
 kelp 8 Irish moss, dillisk, French beans, greens, spinach, sorrel, 
 salads of all kinds: of condiments—as salt, pepper, cayenne, 
 curry, chiUes, mustard, all-spice, mace, cloves, ginger, cinna- 
 mo/'&c • of herbs —savory, parsley, mint, thyme, marjoram, 
 basil bay-leaf, and all sorts, both culinary and medicinal, or 
 their essences, all of which, when properly blended with food, 
 add to'its nourishing qualities; but the grand secret is, to obtain 
 from the above all the nutriment they possess, which is do e y 
 followin''' my receipts, and reducing the animal and vegetab - 
 substances to a "laze, and mixing it with the farinaceous, and 
 thereby obtaining a palatable and agreeable food, and econo- 
 m iz ?n/the productions of nature to an immense exten ; for, by 
 the system at present adopted, more than fifty per cent, of the 
 animal and vegetable productions are lost, and the nutriment 
 from the farinaceous ingredients is rendered less, m £. 
 auence of being unpalatable. In my visits to the ditterent 
 
 charitable institutions of this city, I have be ™ *"‘ D P . rlSe j 3 ome 
 w'int of knowledge manifested m making of soup*. In soi e 
 parishes I found 100 pounds of meat, cut into pieces of a quarter 
 of a pound each, put into. 100 gallons of water, at twelve o clock 
 of one day to be boiled until twelve o’clock the next day; by 
 Inch proceedings the osmazome of the meat is lost by evapora¬ 
 tion from the boiler, and only the gelatine and fibrine is left; 
 
 the former has been proved by a medical board, institute 
 Paris for the purpose of inquiring into the subject, to co 
 tain no nutriment whatever, and the latter contains about 
 the same as a piece of dry wood. What wo, Ml be said ofa, cook 
 who W'ould put a quarter of a pound of meat, 01 even a piece 
 weighing thirty pounds, to roast before a large fire for twenty- 
 four hours 5 What nutriment would it contain at the end o 
 thit period 5 My principle is easily illustrated by putting 
 welvfolns into /galloi of water, and boiling them for as 
 many hours; no smell arises from it; but cu the half of one 
 Td fry it, and the perfume will be diffused over the whole 
 “use thus I extract the aroma of every ingredient which I 
 employ, and any one carefully following the receipts will pro¬ 
 duce a palatable and nourishing food. _ 
 
 The old plan of soaking farinaceous ingredients is not bad, 
 but in many instances it cannot be practised, in which case I 
 
488 
 
 soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 would recommend that peas be put into soft boiling water,* and 
 that the ebullition does not cease until the peas are reduced to a 
 pulp. Indian meal must also be put into boiling water, and be 
 well boiled for two hours. Rice and barley may be put into cold 
 water, and be boiled until they can be easily mashed between 
 the fingers; the length of time depends upon their quality.— 
 All kinds of food made of farinaceous ingredients, as Indian 
 meal, peas, rice, &c., increase in quantity when made the day 
 previous, and require more water when warmed up. 
 
 It will be perceived that I have omitted all kinds of spice 
 except in those dishes which are intended expressly for them, as 
 I consider they only flatter the appetite and irritate the 
 stomach and make it crave for more food; my object being not 
 to create an appetite but to satisfy it; and when those dishes in 
 which spice is introduced are given to the poor, it should only be 
 done by the advice of the medical man; but in those cases where 
 they have been accustomed to have them, they must be reduced 
 by degrees until their taste is brought round to that point most 
 conducive to health. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 1.-FOR TWO GALLONS. 
 
 Two ounces of dripping . 
 
 Quarter of a pound of solid meat, at 4d. per lb. (cut into 
 
 dice one inch square) . 
 
 Quarter pound of onions, sliced thin . 
 
 Quarter pound of turnips; the peel will do, or one whole 
 
 one cut into small dice . 
 
 Two ounces of leeks; the green tops will do, sliced thin 
 
 Three ounces of celery . 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of common flour . 
 
 Half a pound of pure barley, or one pound of Scotch ... 
 
 Three ounces of salt . 
 
 Quarter of an ounce of brown sugar. 
 
 Fuel 
 
 ••• ••• ••• ••• Ml ••• ••• ••• ••• 
 
 Two gallons of water. 
 
 1 
 
 } 
 
 H 
 
 0 £ 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 I first put two ounces of dripping into a saucepan (capable of 
 holding two gallons of water), with a quarter of a pound of leg 
 
 * If hard water is used, add soda. 
 
soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 489 
 
 of beef without bones* cut into square pieces of about; an l inch; 
 and two middling-sized onions, peeled and sliced; X then set tl:e 
 saucepan over a coal fire, and stirred the contents round foi a 
 few minutes with a wooden (or iron) spoon until f™d hghtly 
 brown I had then ready washed the peeling of two turnip,, 
 fifteen green leaves or tops of celery, and the green part of two 
 leeks (the whole of which, I must observe, are always thrown 
 awav’) Having cut the above vegetables into small pieces, 
 threw them into the saucepan with the other ingredients, stirring 
 thenT occasionally over the fire for another ten minutes; then 
 added one quart of cold water and three quarters of a pound ° f 
 common flour and half a pound of pearl barley, mixing all U 
 together- I then added seven quarts of hot water, seasonea 
 wfth three ounces of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of brown 
 sugar stirred occasionally until boiling, and allowed it to slim e 
 vefy gently for three hours; at the end of which time I found the 
 barley perfectly tender. The above soup has been tested by 
 numerous noblemen, members of parliament, and several ladies 
 who have lately visited my kitchen department, and who 
 considered it very good and nourishing. 
 
 This soup will keep several days when made a 
 described- but I must observe, not to keep it in a deep pan, 
 in father a flat vessel, where the air could act freely upon it 
 
 =• ska* 
 
 London; but, as almost every thing can be had at less cost in the 
 country - the price of this soup will be still more reduced. In 
 
 ES:rr£,'-v m’iarssst * 
 
 ^^liTsame for one hundred gallons, to be made in the boilers, 
 such as are given by the different relief “"““‘tees, or 111 > 
 
 other vessel, either iron or copper, in general use. 
 
 * For the use of the bones, see Receipt No. 9. 
 
490 
 
 soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 Twelve pounds of solid meat, at 4d. per lb., cut into 
 pieces one iuch square, or sixteen pounds, with bones, 
 
 at 3d. per lb. 
 
 Three pounds two ounces of dripping . 
 
 Twelve pounds of onions, sliced thin . 
 
 Six pounds of leeks, ditto . 
 
 Six pounds of celery, ditto . 
 
 Eight pounds of turnips, washed only, and cut into dice 
 
 half an inch square . 
 
 Thirty-seven pounds and a half of flour, seconds . 
 
 Twenty-five pounds of pearl barley previously soaked 
 
 Nine pounds of salt. 
 
 One pound seven ounces of sugar ... 
 
 £118 
 
 Have ready a spatula, or a piece of board the shape of a cricket- 
 bat, about six inches wide, tapering towards the top as a handle, 
 (which must be from one foot and a half to two feet above the 
 surface of the vessel), to stir with; take twelve pounds of solid 
 meat, or sixteen pounds with the bones, (legs or clods of beef are 
 excellent for the purpose, but any kind of edible meat from beef 
 to doe venison will do), cut in pieces about one inch square; 
 put the dripping* in the boiler—light the fire—when the fat is 
 melted, add the onions: fry ten minutes, stirring it all the time; 
 add the vegetables and the meat: fry for twenty minutes, or 
 until a thick glaze is produced; then add the salt and sugar, and 
 four gallons of cold water; then add the flour; keep stirring 
 quickly until quite smooth; add the barley, and fill by degrees 
 with hot water ;f boil for three hours, or until the barley is quite 
 tender, and serve. J 
 
 In case either the barley or rice does not produce the thick¬ 
 ness required, (as those ingredients may differ in quality), then 
 add, if too thin, a few pounds of flour or oatmeal, previously 
 mixed with cold w T ater, to make it in a liquid batter, and pour 
 it in when boiling about twenty minutes before serving it out. 
 But. the proper thickness is easily ascertained when the soup 
 hangs lightly on the back of the spatula or ladle and near the 
 consistence of a thin stirabout. 
 
 * If dripping cannot be bad, use four pounds of fat.—See Receipt No. 21. 
 
 f Hot water is the best to use if convenient. 
 
 $ If colour is required, add a quart of Receipt No. 21. 
 
 4 0 
 1 0 
 0 8 
 
 3 1 
 
 n 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
SOYEFv’S CHARITABLE COOKERY. 
 
 491 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 2. -FOR TWO GALLONS. 
 
 Quarter of a pound of beef, at 4d„ cut into pieces of one inch 
 
 square . • • • *' 
 
 Two ounces of dripping, or melted suet 
 
 ~ t f* j_ 
 
 _1_ WU UUI1LCO \JL -- , 
 
 Quarter of a pound of turnips or carrots, cut 
 
 an inch square. 
 
 Tour drops of essences. 
 
 One and a half pound of maize flour 
 
 Three ounces of salt ... . 
 
 Quarter ounce of brown sugar ... 
 
 One teaspoonful of black pepper, ground fine 
 
 Fuel 
 
 into dice of half 
 
 Take two ounces of either dripping, American lard, or suet, to 
 which add the turnips or carrots; fry for ten minutes; add on 
 quart of cold water and the meal, well mixing, and moisten by 
 decrees with seven quarts of hot water; boil for two hours and 
 SonwMi three ounces of salt, one quarter ounce of brown 
 suzar one teaspoonful of black pepper, two drops of essence of 
 garlic' Z d4 of essence of mint, one drop of essence of celery; 
 stir quickly, and serve directly. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 3. 
 
 • • • • • • 
 
 No. 2. ••• »•* n . , 
 
 As No. 2—and add one pound of potatoes 
 
 ••• 
 
 • • * 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 For those who have the chance of procuring a few potatoes 
 once a week, they may be used with advantage in the following 
 
 ma Havin<r prepared the soup according to Receipt No. 2, when 
 nearly dolie, wash a pound of potatoes, pick out the black spots, 
 ;f anv end cut them in very small dice; put them into the soup 
 to boil for twenty m nutes, Ir a little longer, until done and the 
 soun is ready, aid will strongly taste of potato; the short time 
 of ebullition preserving all the aroma of that inconstant root. 
 
 Havino- promised to make my receipts public, for the benefit 
 of the laborious class of society, as well as for the poor, I thi 
 
492 
 
 soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 that if a man could treat his family once a week with a food 
 called potato soup, each member of it, who had previously fed 
 on that root, and who are now nearly deprived of that food, 
 would worship the day of the- week when such a luxury should 
 be displayed on their humble table. 
 
 receipt no. 4. 
 
 Quarter of a pound of bacon . 
 
 One ounce of dripping . 
 
 Quarter of a pound of onions . 
 
 Quarter of a pound of turnips or carrots 
 
 Two ounces of leeks and celery . 
 
 Quarter ounce of mint, shred fine 
 Pound and a quarter of yellow peas 
 
 Half pound of common flour . 
 
 Two ounces and a half of salt . 
 
 Half ounce of sugar . ... 
 
 Vi 
 
 Have a quarter of a pound of fat bacon* cut into dice, peel and 
 slice two good sized onions, or three small ones, and put both 
 into a stewpan, with one ounce of dripping; fry them gently 
 until lightly brown, then add two ounces of turnips, two ounces 
 of carrots, and one ounce of leeks, and one ounce of celery; cut 
 them thin and slanting, (but, as I have before observed, any 
 kind of vegetable will answer the purpose, if the same propor¬ 
 tion is used;) fry for ten minutes and fill up with seven quarts 
 of water, and, when boiling, add a pound and a quarter of split 
 peas, and let them simmer for two or three hours, until reduced 
 to a pulp, which depends on the quality of the pea; then add 
 two ounces of salt, half an ounce of sugar, quarter of an ounce 
 of mint, mix one half pound of flour in twelve ounces of water, 
 to a thin batter, pour into the soup, stir it well, boil one quarter 
 of an hour, and serve. 
 
 NO. 5, MEAGRE PEAS SOUP. 
 
 This is the same as the former, with the exception that the 
 bacon and dripping are omitted and oil or butter used in their 
 
 * If bacon cannot be had, the same quantity of solid meat of any kind 
 will do. 
 
SOYERS CHARITABLE COOKERY. 
 
 493 
 
 stead. Buttermilk could, with advantage, be used; in which 
 case, add three ounces of salt. Although this food is entire y 
 deprived of animal substance, yet the farinaceous ingredients 
 will act generously on the digestive organs, particularly to a 
 stomach which has suffered from want of food. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 6.—THE FISHERMAN^ FOOD FOR THE COAST. 
 
 Four pounds of fish . 
 
 Three ounces of salt . 
 
 One half ounce of sugar 
 One quarter ounce of pepper 
 
 Bay-leaf, thyme . .. 
 
 Two pounds of oatmeal 
 
 Cut four pounds of fresh fish of any kind in large pieces; put 
 it in your pan with three ounces of salt, half an ounce of sugar, 
 a little pepper, two bay leaves, a little thyme, one quart of water, 
 and let it stew gently; mix two pounds of oatmeal with seven 
 quarts of lukewarm water, and pour it over the fish; stn it 
 gently, so as not to break it too much; let it boil twenty 
 
 minutes, and it is done. T , 
 
 A red herring or dried salt fish, previously soared, is exceed¬ 
 ingly good to make this food; but omit the salt if all salt fish is 
 
 used. 
 
 IM 
 
 0* 
 
 01 
 
 4 
 
 
 8f 
 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 7*-CURRY FISH. 
 
 Four onions, sliced 
 
 One hay-leaf . 
 
 Two apples, sliced . 
 
 Quarter of a pound of fat . 
 
 Three ounces of salt .* . 
 
 Half an ounce of sugar . 
 
 One pound of rice . 
 
 An ounce of curry powder. 
 
 Six pounds of fish . 
 
 1 
 
 ‘i 
 
 . 6 
 
 101 
 
494 
 
 soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan four onions, a small bunch of bay-leaf, 
 thyme, and savory; two apples, if convenient, with a quarter 
 pound of fat, three ounces of salt, and quarter ounce of sugar, 
 and fry for fifteen minutes. Put one pound of rice, and four 
 quarts of water, and boil till tender: add one ounce of curry 
 powder, mixed in a little water. Cut up six pounds of cheap 
 fish into pieces of the size of an egg; add to the above, and boil 
 for twenty or thirty minutes, according to the kind of fish. Salt 
 and dried fish, previously soaked, cooked in this way, is excel¬ 
 lent, omitting the salt. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 8.—FOOD FOR THE COAST. 
 
 Three haddocks . .. 3 
 
 Two pounds of salt *.) 
 
 Quarter of an ounce of sugar . .. \ 
 
 S^- 
 
 Take three middle sized haddocks; remove the gills and inte¬ 
 rior, and cut open; rub them with two pounds of salt, a quarter 
 of an ounce of sugar; let them remain twenty-four hours, turn¬ 
 ing occasionally; pass a twig through the eyes, and hang them 
 in a cool, well ventilated place, until rather dry. 
 
 Conger eel cut into slices, one inch thick, halibut, plaice, 
 mackerel, treated in the same manner (if large they must be 
 crimped) will keep for some time; they can be boiled, baked, 
 broiled, or fried. A pound haddock will take twelve minutes 
 broiling, from fifteen to twenty frying; twenty minutes baking 
 or boiling. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 9. -SAVORY RICE FOOD. 
 
 Six pounds of hohes ... 
 
 Ten quarts of water ... 1 . 
 
 Three ounces of salt . 
 
 Bay-leaf, &c. . ... 
 
 Two onions, cut thin ... ... 
 
 Half an ounce of sugar 
 
 Half a pound of vegetables, cut small 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 
soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 495 
 
 Half a pound of oatmeal .•. 
 
 Pound of rice .. . ^2 
 
 Two ounces of dripping .. ^2 
 
 8 
 
 The hones can be sold after using for 2 
 
 6 
 
 Having saved the bones of the previous day, a very good food 
 may be made as follows:—Take six pounds of bones, which 
 break into small pieces, and boil in ten quarts of water for four 
 hours; having added three ounces of salt, a small bunch or 
 thyme, bay deaf and savory, put into a stew-pan, the fat, and two 
 onions cut thin, half a pound of vegetables, as carrots, turnips, 
 celery, &c., cut very thin; half ounce of sugar; put it on the 
 fire for fifteen minutes, stirring it occasionally; add half a pound 
 of oatmeal, and mix well; moisten with two gallons of the stock 
 from the bones; add one and a quarter pound of rice, pre¬ 
 viously soaked : boil till tender, and serve. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 10 . —RICE PANADA. 
 
 fee* »•* ••• ••• 
 
 3X 1 • • in ••• * • • ••• ••• L 
 
 . • I« ».# ••• ••• * • • J 
 
 2 
 
 0 * 
 
 One pound of rice ».. 
 
 Three quarters ounce of sugar 
 Two ounces of salt ... .. 
 
 One pound of flour ... . ••• ••• 
 
 Half an ounce of curry powder at 6d., or a quarter of a pound 
 
 of treacle 
 
 
 Boil a pound of rice (previously washed) in one gallon of 
 water, for one hour; add three quarters of an ounce of sugar, 
 two ounces of salt; mix with some cold water to make a thin 
 paste, one pound of flour or oatmeal, and half an ounce of curry 
 powder; add it to the rice, and boil for twenty minutes, and 
 
 Should it be preferred sweet, add quarter of a pound of 
 
 treacle instead of the curry. 
 
 This will make ten pounds of solid food. 
 
406 
 
 soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 11. -PEAS PANADA. 
 
 Quarter of a pound of fat bacon or American pork . 14 
 
 Two ounces of dripping . OA 
 
 Four ounces of onions or leeks . OA 
 
 One pound and a half of peas . 3 
 
 Half an ounce of salt.) ^ 
 
 Half a pound of Indian meal ..) 
 
 6 ^- 
 
 Cut a quarter of a pound of fat bacon or American pork 
 into small dice, put it into a stew-pan with two onions or tops of 
 leeks; well wash, and cut them thin, and fry ten minutes; add 
 one pound and a half of peas, half ounce of salt, quarter ounce 
 of sugar, and one gallon of water, boil till it becomes a pur6e or 
 pulp, then add sufficient oatmeal, common flour, or Indian meal, 
 to make it thick, and boil thirty minutes.* This food is very 
 strengthening, and might be made several days previous to 
 using; it will keep well—if no vegetable is to be obtained, a 
 small quantity of essence of herbs would improve it. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 12. -PEAS PANADA, SWEET. 
 
 One pound of peas .) 2 
 
 Half an ounce of salt ... ... ..) 
 
 An ounce of dripping ... .. OA 
 
 Half a pound of Indian meal . 1 
 
 Quarter pound of treacle .. . 1 
 
 4A 
 
 2 
 
 Boil in one gallon of water, one pound of peas, add half ounce 
 of salt, one ounce of dripping or melted suet, mix with it half a 
 pound of Indian meal, boil for two hours, stirring it well, add a 
 quarter of a pound of treacle; this can be eaten hot or cold. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 13. —CHEESE STIRABOUT. 
 
 One pound of Indian meal ... 
 
 o 
 
 • • • •• ••• ••• • • • ^ 
 
 Three ounces of salt . 
 
 • • • • • • M t « ft ••• ••• v 
 
 Half a pound of cheese 
 
 • • « 1 M 1 
 
 Quarter ounce of mustard ... 
 
 0 ^ 
 
 • •• nt ••• in in hi v 2 
 
 3 * 
 
 * If Indian meal is used, it must be boiled two hours. 
 
soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 497 
 
 Put two gallons of water in a stewpan, and boil; take some 
 Indian meal, the quantity depends on the quality, and add it 
 gradually to the water, stirring it all the time, so that it should 
 he quite smooth and thick: add three ounces of salt; simmer on 
 the side of the fire for two hours, taking care that it does not 
 burn; add half a pound of strong cheese, broken small or grated, 
 with a little mustard: give it a boil and serve. 
 
 Or put it into baking tins, allow it to get cold, cut it into 
 pieces, which fry or bake. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 14 . -INDIAN MEAL POULLENTA. 
 
 One pound of meal . ... . 2 
 
 Quarter of a pound of sausage meat ...... ... . 1 
 
 3 
 
 Prepare the meal as above (which must be very thick) with¬ 
 out the cheese; place it in baking tins; place a thin layer of 
 sausage meat, or black pudding upon it, and cover it with more 
 of the meal; bake it for twenty minutes and serve. 
 
 This is an excellent and cheap dish, and fit for the tables of 
 the wealthy if a strong gravy is poured over it when served. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 15 . -SAVORY HOMINY. j 
 
 Two quarts or four pounds of Indian corn. 
 
 Quarter of a pound of dripping. 
 
 Two onions.. . 
 
 Three ounces of salt . 
 
 Take two quarts of Indian corn and soak it for twenty-four 
 hours in water, put it into a pot containing two gallons of boil¬ 
 ing water and simmer for five hours; draw off the water, if any, 
 add a quarter of a pound of dripping, two onions, sliced thin, 
 three ounces of salt, put it on the fire for twenty minutes, 
 keep stirring it all the time, so that it does not burn, and serve. 
 This will produce two gallons of excellent food. The puree 
 made from the whole corn, as above, is much sweeter and more 
 wholesome than that made from the ground meal. The great 
 mistake at present in the use of Indian meal is, that it is not 
 
 K K 
 
498 
 
 soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 cooked enough, it being used similar to flour; it should, on the 
 contrary, be well mixed with boiling water and allowed to 
 simmer for never less than two hours; it then loses its raw taste 
 and increases in quantity. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 16 . -ST. PATRICK’S SOUP. 
 
 One pound of meat at 4d. 
 Two ounces of dripping 
 
 Vegetables . 
 
 Salt, sugar. 
 
 Finn" 
 
 AWU ’ ••• Ml Ml Ml 
 
 Spice ... 
 Dillisk* 
 
 t • • 
 
 • • • 
 
 • • • Ml 
 
 • • • Ml 
 
 7 
 
 Take one pound of meat without bones, and cut into small 
 pieces, put into a stewpan two ounces of dripping, one ounce of 
 leeks, one ounce of celery, once ounce of carrots, two ounces of 
 turnips, and fry for ten minutes; then add the meat with two 
 ounces of salt, half ounce of sugar, and fry until a thick glaze is 
 produced; then add one quart of cold water, and half a pound of 
 flour; then add one quart of cold water and half a pound of 
 flour; then add two ounces of dillisk, well washed and chopped 
 fine; a little mixed spice and pepper. Boil three-quarters of an 
 hour and serve. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 17 . -OYSTER PORRIDGE. 
 
 On many parts of the coast, oysters can be had for three 
 shillings per thousand; they can be made, without much 
 trouble, into a nourishing and palatable food, by putting tw r o 
 dozen into an earthen pan, with the liquor from them, and add 
 three spoonfuls of flour; place it on the fire, stirring them 
 round; add a little salt and pepper, and they are done. This 
 can be added to the porridge made of the Indian corn and rice, 
 or in the other receipts, where fish is used; a little lard is an 
 improvement; also a bay-leaf, mint, and an onion sliced. 
 
 Mussels and cockles can be used in the same way in propor¬ 
 tion of two dozen to the quart. 
 
 * Porphyna Purpura—if not to be bad, use laver or slook—the ulva 
 lactuca. 
 
soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 499 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 18 . 
 
 PICKLED OYSTERS FOR THE LONDON MARKET. 
 
 Open the oysters into a pan, with their liquor; and put them 
 into an earthen pot and set them over the fire to simmer: take 
 the scum off as it rises; add some whole pepper, sliced ginger, 
 (green if possible,) a few cloves, some chopped chillies and a 
 little vinegar; simmer for not longer than five minutes; take 
 them out, remove the beards and put them into a barrel; add the 
 liquor strained when cold. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 19 . -CABBAGE STIRABOUT. 
 
 Well wash two pounds of cabbage, take out the stalks, and 
 cut it slanting in slices; put into a stew-pan with a quarter of 
 a pound of dripping, lard, or butter; half ounce of salt, quarter 
 ounce of pepper, one ounce of sugar, put it on the fire for ten 
 minutes, stir it well, then cover it with water and stew for 
 twenty minutes, and mix it with stirabout, previously made of 
 Indian corn meal. 
 
 Young nettles done in this way are exceedingly wholesome, 
 and any kind of green vegetables can be cooked in this manner. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 20 . -CONGER EELS. 
 
 Put a slice of about two pounds weight into a saucepan, or 
 earthern pot, with two onions sliced thin; a small quantity of 
 dillisk, well washed and chopped fine, quarter ounce of salt, and 
 a little pepper, add two quarts of water, and stew for one hour; 
 ten minutes before using take out the fish and thicken with a 
 little flour, previously mixed with some water; boil ten minutes, 
 pour it over the fish, and serve—if onions or dillisk are not to 
 be had, use half a pound of any vegetable cut fine: halibut and 
 similar fish can be cooked in the same manner. 
 
 RECEIPT no 21 . 
 
 Take three dozen of mussels, wash them, and place in a stew¬ 
 ing pan over the fire for five minutes, so that the shell is open; 
 
 K K 2 
 
oOO 
 
 soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 take them off, and remove the upper shell; sometimes a small 
 crab will be found in them, which remove, as they are rather 
 unwholesome; replace them, with their liquor and bottom shell, 
 in the pan, add a spoonful of flour, mixed with some butter or 
 lard, and a spoonful of chopped parsley; stir it in, and stew for 
 five minutes, and serve. 
 
 For a large quantity have ready the large boiler, put therein 
 four pounds of lard or butter, and four pounds of sliced onions, 
 and fry for five minutes; have ready two pails full of mussels 
 with their liquor out of their shell, which put in the boiler, with 
 one pound of salt, two ounces of pepper, two ounces of sugar, 
 and two pounds of chopped parsley; have ready two pounds of 
 flour, mixed with water, to consistence of good cream, and put 
 it into the boiler; boil for ten to fifteen minutes, stir it gently 
 with a wooden spatula, and serve; if not required meagre, use 
 instead of the flour and water, the same quantity of boiling 
 stock, from the bones of meat, or from cow-heel, well stewed, 
 parts of which, cut small, can be added: any flavour of herbs 
 may be given, if liked. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 22. -COLOURING, AND MELTED FAT. 
 
 Put half a pound of brown sugar into an iron saucepan, and 
 melt it over a moderate fire; when melted, stir it continually till 
 quite black, then add one quart of water, and it is ready 
 for use. 
 
 For melting the fat, put it into a black saucepan, with a little 
 water, and fry it until it becomes a deep yellow colour, stirring 
 it all the time; have ready a coarse cloth and pan, pour the fat 
 into the cloth, twist round each end tight, and you will obtain 
 all the fat required. If fat or dripping cannot be obtained to 
 draw down the glaze, use a small quantity of water. 
 
 RECEIPT NO. 23. -MANGEL WURZEL. 
 
 Take the middle part of the leaves or stalk of the mangel 
 wurzel, and peel the outside as you do for rhubarb, cut them 
 into equal lengths and tie them up like asparagus; boil, with 
 some salt in the water, for twenty minutes, and serve, with a 
 
soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 501 
 
 little butter, or milk thickened with flour, or stew them with 
 any kind of fish or meat. 
 
 Mangel wurzel may be used in any of the before-named 
 receipts^ instead of the other vegetables, if cut up into small 
 dice or grated; but if kept for a few days in the soup, is apt to 
 discolour it. 
 
 In all the foregoing receipts, a greater quantity of meat may 
 be used by those who can afford it, as I am a great advocate 
 that every trade should flourish and that wealth should support 
 luxury. However great the quantity of meat that may be used, 
 no longer time should be used in cooking it. . Take the same 
 proportion of the receipts for any larger quantity. 
 
 I here intended to have given an account of my oven—the 
 method of using it, and a variety of cheap receipts; but I find 
 that it would make this small pamphlet too large, so that I shall 
 be obliged to give it in a separate form; and also, a variety of 
 new receipts for dressing and preparing meat, fish, 8cc., for the 
 London market, and a variety of wholesome and nutritious 
 
 drinks. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE MODEL KITCHEN. 
 
 The exterior and covering is of a temporary nature, being 
 formed of boards and canvas, enclosing a space of forty-eight 
 
 feet long, and forty feet wide. # 
 
 The interior consists of a steam boiler, on ^wheels, thirteen 
 feet long, and four feet wide, with a glaze pan over it, capable 
 of containing three hundred gallons, and at the end an oven, to 
 bake one hundred weight of bread at a time; and all heated by 
 the same fire. Under the boiler is an excavation to contain 
 coals, and round it an elevated platform to give access to the 
 glaze-pan. At the distance of eight feet, round the boiler, are 
 ei"ht iron bam marie pans, with covers, six feet long, and 
 twenty-two inches wide, on wheels, and made double, to be 
 boiled by steam, and contain, together, one thousand gallons. 
 At each end, extending between the pans, are the cutting-tables 
 —at one end the meat, and at the other the vegetables; and 
 under which are placed wooden soaking tubs,, on wheels, and 
 chopping-blocks for the meat, drawers and sliding shelf. . Four 
 feet beyond these are placed a row of tables, eighteen inches 
 
502 
 
 soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 wide, in which a hole is cut, and therein is placed a quart iron 
 white enamelled basin, with a metal spoon attached thereto by 
 a neat chain: there are one hundred of these, and this table 
 forms the outer boundary of the kitchen, leaving a space of two 
 feet six inches between it and the wall. Inside of the table are 
 fastened tin water-cases, at the distance of ten feet apart, con¬ 
 taining a sponge, &c., to clean out the soup basins. 
 
 Round the two supports of the roof are circular tin boxes for 
 the condiments. Seven feet from the ground at each corner, is 
 placed a safe, five feet square and seven feet high, with sides of 
 wire, for ventilation, which contains respectively, meat, vege¬ 
 tables, grain, and condiments. At the same elevation as the 
 safes are sixteen butts, containing 1792 gallons of water. 
 
 At the entrance, in the centre, is the weighing machine. 
 The fire being lighted, a certain quantity of fat or dripping is 
 placed in the glaze-pan, and in the soup-pans the farinaceous 
 ingredients, or thickening, along with the water. As soon as 
 the fat is melted in the glaze-pan, the vegetables, cut into thin 
 slices, or dice, are placed therein; after the lapse of ten minutes 
 the meat, which has been previously cut into small pieces, is 
 added, and allowed gradually to fry until the juice is extracted, 
 and a good glaze formed, which will be in about thirty-five 
 minutes. 
 
 The condiments are then added, and the glaze is removed, 
 and distributed equally in the bain marie pans; it is boiled for 
 twenty minutes, and the soup or food is complete: this is the 
 time occupied in making the soup, when such farinaceous ingre¬ 
 dients as flour, oatmeal, and rice or barley, previously soaked, 
 are employed; but peas, Indian corn meal, and many other 
 ingredients, will take longer boiling. It is then ready' to be 
 removed by ladles, into the basins in the surrounding tables. 
 Outside the tent is a zigzag passage capable of containing one 
 hundred persons in a small space in the open air;* at the en¬ 
 trance is a check clerk, and an indicator, or machine which 
 numbers every person that passes; and on the other side is a 
 bread and biscuit room, where those who have partaken of the 
 soup and are departing, receive on passing a quarter of a pound 
 of bread or savory biscuit; as I prefer giving it then instead of 
 
 * I do this in order to prevent the crowding together of the poor, which 
 causes the propagation of infectious diseases. 
 
soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 503 
 
 with the soup or food, it being sufficient for one meal without, 
 and will not only save time, but when eaten afterwards will be 
 more wholesome, and act more generously on the system, than 
 when eaten in haste. When the soup or food is ready, notice 
 is given by ringing the bell, and the one hundred persons are 
 admitted, and take their places at the table—the basins being 
 previously filled, grace is said—the bell is again rung for them 
 to begin, and a sufficient time is allowed them to eat their quart 
 of food. During the time they are emptying their basins, the 
 outside passage is again filling; as soon as they have done, and 
 are going out at the other side, the basin and spoon is cleaned, 
 and again filled; the bell rings, and a fresh number admitted; 
 this continuing'every successive six minutes, feeding one thou¬ 
 sand persons per hour; but as there are three thousand quarts 
 more to distribute, which only occupies seventy minutes to 
 make, other means must be used for distributing the food, tor 
 which purpose a door is provided at the entrance of the kitchen, 
 to which persons come with tickets, which are given to them by 
 district visitors, or subscribers; or if not with tickets, to pur¬ 
 chase the food and which they take home with them. There is 
 also provided carts and barrows for either horses, donkeys, or 
 men to draw, containing from twenty-five gallons to two hun¬ 
 dred gallons each, with fires attached; so that the soup or food 
 contained in them should be hot or cooking on its way to t e 
 place of distribution. Such is a brief description of the kitchen. 
 I also propose to change the diet every day, according to the 
 provisions obtainable, and on fast days to give meagre food. 
 
 Its advantages over those at present in use are numerous; 
 the principle of employing steam in cooking is not new, and is 
 adopted in most large establishments in England and on the 
 Continent; it not only causes a great saving in fuel, but also in 
 the preparation of food, for, with the greatest care, it is liable to 
 burn, when subjected to the direct heat of the fire on the 
 bottom of the boilers; but my new plan of combining the use ot 
 steam, and the same fire which produces it, to act upon the pan 
 containing the meat, vegetables, and condiments, extracting 
 immediately the valuable nutritive qualities of the animal and 
 vegetable substances without loss by evaporation, and m using 
 it in the manner I do, is one which I may justly lay claim to as 
 my invention. There is also great economy in the number ot 
 
 hands employed. 
 
504 
 
 soyer’s charitable cookery.. 
 
 To an army it would be of great service; the boiler pan, and 
 oven does not take up more space, or is of greater weight, than 
 the forge of an artillery train. In addition to the boiler, several 
 water casks, placed on wagons, should accompany it, which 
 would combine the advantage of taking water to any place 
 where it is not easily attainable ; and at any time or place, in 
 two hours, rations could be cooked for twenty-five thousand men, 
 and, including the boiler, would consist of a train of eleven 
 wagons. By increasing the size of the apparatus, it could be 
 easily doubled; and by using my portable cooking-barrows, the 
 food could be taken to any distance. 
 
 I propose that these kitchens be erected in populous districts, 
 and where there are any already erected, to adapt them by as 
 little expense as possible, to my plan, so as to economize both 
 fuel, material, and hands. I then propose that the food should 
 be distributed by carts to the surrounding villages, by a party 
 appointed for that purpose, thereby saving the expense of sepa¬ 
 rate establishments, and the chance of bad food, from ignorance 
 in its manufacture: it will also prevent the distribution of raw 
 meal, or raw food, which, at the present moment, is in many 
 cases abused; besides, from the want of knowledge in its pre¬ 
 paration, causes disease, and does more harm than good. To 
 illustrate my ideas, I will select one district in the county of 
 Mayo, with the town of ScarrifF as the centre of a district of 
 sixty miles in circumference, and under the direction of one of 
 the most able agents of government that I have had the honour 
 of meeting since my stay in Dublin, Major Fitzgerald. 
 
 There, until latterly, raw Indian meal only was distributed, 
 although other provisions might be obtained; but the difficulty 
 of teaching the inhabitants to cook them, prevent their intro¬ 
 duction ; in most cases they have to come a distance of from five 
 to six Irish miles to fetch their small quantity of food, and in 
 many cases, when they receive it, eat it raw on the spot. Their 
 coming so far must, of necessity, prevent them attending to 
 their work, and thereby increases the pauperism, instead of 
 diminishing it. In that district the Union-house should be the 
 central point of distribution; from thence should depart every 
 morning, in time for the mid-day meal, the food for the sur¬ 
 rounding villages, which should not only be given to the desti¬ 
 tute, but to keep up the spirit of independence in the people, be 
 sold at cost price. On the return of the party with the cart, 
 
soyer’s charitable cookery. 
 
 505 
 
 they would give an account of the number of quarts or pounds 
 distributed and sold; to whom; the state of health or disease, 
 and poverty of the receivers, and the cause; a weekly return ot 
 which should be sent to an office in Dublin, whereby the govern¬ 
 ment or commission appointed under it, would know exact y 
 where and how the distress existed, and would be able to apply 
 a remedy which, at the present moment, cannot be done, as no 
 person visits the locality of the recipients of the bounty. Medical 
 men or competent persons, should likewise be appointed as 
 inspectors of the material used for food; for I have found since 
 I have been here, adulteration practised largely, and it should 
 be remembered, that not always the cheapest material is the 
 
 best. 
 
 I intended to have given copies of several letters which I 
 have received from all classes of society in confirmation ot the 
 excellent quality of the soup and food made from my receipt, 
 but they are so numerous, I could not with justice make a selec¬ 
 tion; but I cannot close the book without giving a copy ot a 
 letter which I wrote to her Grace the Duchess of b-, ac¬ 
 
 companying some soups. Nos. 1 and 4, and her Grace s reply. 
 
 Reform Club, Deb. 22nd, 1847. 
 
 “ Madame la Duchesse, 
 
 «line time aussi belle que la vdtre ne peut pas manquer d’yavoir jointe, a 
 toutes les qualites que la nature vous a legue's, la Philantropie, c’est cc qui 
 auiourd’hui me fait prendre la liberte dc vous faire parvemr deux specimens de ma 
 soupe, telle que je me propose de la faire pour les pauvres: et laquelle ne coutera que 
 < three farthings the quart,’ vous priant, Madame la Duchesse, de vouloir bien avoir 
 la bonte de me faire part, avec la plus parfaite impartiality de ce que vous pensez 
 de la qualite nourissante de cet aliment, lequel, dans ce moment, peut etre de la 
 plus grande utilite a l’humanite souffrante : soulager le malheureux est un devoir 
 sacre • il est tellement doux de faire le bien, le bonheur des grands ne peut etre 
 parfait que lorsque leurs dependants sont heureux, mais la famine, cet esprit 
 farouche, morne et grondeur, pointe continuellement son aiguillon vers le trone; 
 comme haiguille de la boussole pointe vers le nord, le malheur a toujoursle droit 
 d’etre injuste, surtout pour des besoins aussi indispensables; la nature parle avec 
 
 force, l’appetit ne plaisante jamais. . 
 
 <$ Dix jours s’etant a peine ecoule's depuis que j’ai tourne mon attention sur 
 
 cet important sujet, les resultats que j’anticipais avec surete, out tellement 
 
506 soyer’s charitable cookery! 
 
 au-dessus de mon attente que je vois dans l’avenir une amelioration presque imme¬ 
 diate par l’etablissement de mes cuisines en Irelande, et en economisant meme les 
 provisions et 1’argent, que jusqu’alors n’ont fait que toucher le mal sans guerir 
 la hlessure. Le governement de sa Majeste Britannique m’ayant fait demander, 
 je lui ai soumis mon plan, dont il a approuve, et m’invita de me rendre aupres 
 du Vice Roi d’lrlande pour le meme objet, je serais enchante, Madame la Du- 
 chesse, avant mon depart de le soumettre a votre bon jugement et vous expliquer 
 moi-meme toute la simplicity de mon arrangement, vous priant de croire, 
 Madame la Duchesse, combien je serais reconnaissant de la haute honneur que 
 vous me feriez en m’accordant une audience: je suis avec le plus profond respect, 
 Madame, votre tres humble, tres obeissant, et tres respectueux serviteur, 
 
 “A. SOYER. 
 
 “Le jour de mon depart pour Dublin etant fixe a Yendredi, si Madame lar 
 Duchesse voulait bien nommer l’heure qui lui serait la plus agreable, je me ferai 
 l’honneur de me rendre pres d’elle avec le plan de ma cuisine.” 
 
 To which I received the following most gracious reply :— 
 
 “ La Duchesse de S-, remercie infiniement M. Soyer et sera charme de le 
 
 recevoir apres la Levee demain ; elle ne veut point attendre pour lui exprime 
 toute l’admiration qu’elle a pour son projet.” 
 
 February 23rd, 1847. 
 
 I then had an audience of her Grace and party, to whom I 
 submitted my plan, to which they expressed their greatest ap¬ 
 probation, and informed me that she and her friends had par¬ 
 taken of the soup which I had sent, and that they could scarcely 
 believe it was made from the materials used, it being so good. 
 
SOYER’S MODEL KITCHEN. 
 
 From the Times, Sept. 28, 1847. 
 
 “ To the Editor of the Times. 
 
 "Sir,— The great interest you manifested in Eebruary last, when I made 
 known my intention of erecting by subscription a model kitchen for the poor, 
 was handsomely responded to by the public, and the scheme being considered by 
 Government likely to be (at that distressing period) of immense advantage for 
 Ireland, I was requested to lay my plans before the Lords of the Treasury, and 
 being approved of, I willingly accepted the invitation of erecting my mode 
 kitchen in Dublin, instead of London, as I at first intended. 
 
 “ Having successfully proved that the system was of paramount importance, 
 both as regards the large quantity of superior food that could be produced, and 
 the immense saving that could be effected, the Government then purchased my 
 model kitchen, and the South Union Relief Committee of Dublin have had the 
 use of it ever since the 24th of April. 
 
 “As I am certain, Sir, that my subscribers and the public will feel interested 
 in the result of my plan, the following brief statement will, I hope, awaken all 
 local boards (if at all anxious), and adopt a system which must save, on a very 
 moderate calculation, at least 50 per cent, at any period of either scarcity or 
 
 plenty. 
 
 “ x leave to those who are better acquainted than I am with statistics what 
 would be the amount saved to the ratepayers all through the country. 
 
 “ From the opening of my model kitchen by me, on the 6th 
 of April last, to the 24th, the number of rations of 
 
 2^ lb. each was. 
 
 “From the 26th of April to the 22nd of May, by the South 
 Union Relief Committee, the number of rations, 
 averaging 12,500 per day, was • 
 
 “ From the 24th May to the 31st of July, also by the South 
 Union Relief Committee, the number of rations per 
 day, varying from 1,750 to 23,640, was 
 “ From the 2nd of August to the 14th, averaging 6,500 
 a-day, was . 
 
 “Making 2,868,179 lbs. of food, and of rations • • 
 
 40,000 
 
 300,000 
 
 729,279 
 
 78,000 
 
 1,147,279 
 
508 
 
 soyer’s model kitchen. 
 
 “ To supply that number of rations by the old plan of pre¬ 
 paring food in different depots, would have cost, at 
 3 cl. per ration (which is rather under the average), 
 
 the sum of.£15,536 
 
 “But, according to my plan of preparing food with my 
 model kitchen, as it was estimated in a report made 
 to the Relief Committee by its Secretary, on the 23rd 
 of April last, the cost of each ration, including coals, 
 expenses of house, carriage, labour, &c., came to 1-f d., 
 making altogether, for 2,868,179 lbs. of solid food, 
 a sum of.7,76S 
 
 “ Effecting a saving in favour of the South Union Committee 
 
 of 50 per cent., or a sum of .... £7,768 
 
 “ In support of the above statement, I beg to observe that the ratepayers of 
 the North Union of Dublin have paid 3s. 4 d. in the pound, whilst those of the 
 South Union only paid Is. This result, Sir, speaks volumes in favour of my 
 system. In addition to the model kitchen, Messrs. Brown & Co., of Great Russell 
 Street, Borough, have erected one of their patent steam-plate ovens, which can 
 bake on an average 1,000 loaves of 4 lb. each every 12 hours with three bushels 
 of coke. The 1,000 loaves require 11 sacks of flour, consequently, 22 sacks can 
 be worked in 24 hours, 132 sacks per week, at about a Id. per sack for fuel. 
 What with the savings in baking, and also the new process of making bread 
 I have introduced, I calculate that full 25 per cent, can be saved on the cost of 
 bread at all times. 
 
 “ Therefore, admitting that the model kitchen, the new oven, and the new 
 bread could only save 35 or 40 per cent, to the ratepayers, the system cannot 
 be otherwise than particularly interesting to the whole community. 
 
 “ I am, Sir, yours most respectfully, 
 
 "A, SOYER. ’ 
 
 “ Reform Club, Sept. 23.” 
 
OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 The following are a few extracts from some of the Public 
 Journals that have reviewed this work: 
 
 Chronicle.—" M. Soyer, in the exercise of his approved philanthropy, 
 haf pub““ed an Op.sc*» called The Modern Ho^emfe ^ 
 which if we rightly understand its object, is intended for the P' actlca 
 service of all families whose means range between positive pover y a 
 pXe affluence. But vain would be all our endeavours to convey to our 
 readers an adequate notion of this great Compendium of Cookery Ineie ■ 
 hut ole thing l be done. All who have food to cook must buy the book. 
 
 morning Herald.— “The far-famed Soyer has achieved a flesh 
 triumph in thf production of this work, which is undoubtedly the best an 
 most complete manual of household cookery ever offered to the British pub . 
 Advertiser.— “He seeks to produce good English fare into every 
 
 • a i , r to. Tip iq a rio'ht worthy Master of the Mint, toi all 
 
 dwelling, and plen y • , thriftiest yet most satisfactory 
 
 his advice and recommendations have the thnitiest, ye* 
 
 tendency.” , 
 
 nailv Hews.-" We know of nothing of the kind even in France, 
 
 whTbftw^en the vulgar 0— Bc^coi, and the **£ 0— 
 Royal there is no good, and domestic, and economic guide. In M. y 
 will he a good medical, as well as culinary guide. 
 
 _“ The receipts are all written in plain and understandable lan- 
 
 * A M Sover’s ‘Housewife’ is indeed and in trutn The Cookery 
 guage, an • J f Ma^ic Stove ’ is a perfect wonder of invention. 
 
 Bylts means^the breakfast raa/be cooked upon the breakfast table itself. 
 2l wlo wish to enjoy a cutlet in perfection should cook it themselves oy the 
 
 magic stove.” . . 
 
 CS-lobe —“ M Soyer, the renowned chef de cuisine at the Reform Club 
 anfUiimself the most eminent of Reformers in the gastronomic art, has jus 
 
 added to his public services.” 
 
 «„,mtator-“ The 'Modern Housewife’ is the most dramatic of 
 
 cookery-books; carried on ^“ 8 fu^ into 
 arrangement by which two-thirds of an ep 
 
 the didactic work.” 
 
soyer’s modern housewife. 
 
 Colburn’s Magazine.— “ It is, indeed, one of those books whic^i 
 only require to be announced to ensure popularity. M. Soyer does nothing 
 like anybody else.” 
 
 Court Journal.— “ This work is well calculated to work a thorough 
 reform in the barbarous style of dinner and evening parties in English middle 
 society.” 
 
 Observer.— “ We consider his present book a most useful one, and are 
 certain that it will be more popular than either that of Mrs. Rundell or Mrs. 
 Glasse. The chief value of this book rests upon its economical principles, 
 and it almost tells you how to make something out of nothing.” 
 
 Atlas.— “ We invite all our readers, each of whom is sure to buy the 
 book, to send their several experiences on the subject.” 
 
 Esancet.— “ We give no extracts, as the book ought to be read, and in 
 the hands of every keeper of a kitchen and larder in the kingdom. In fact, 
 M. Soyer is the Brougham of literary, practical, and eloquent cnisiniers.” 
 
 Dispatch.— “ We hail with pleasure another work from the pen of the 
 far-famed and ingenious chef. Mons. Soyer, who will be ever gratefully re¬ 
 membered by the housewives of England, even after the names of Ude and 
 Careme have sunk into oblivion.” 
 
 United Service Gazette. —'“The ‘ Modern Housewife’ is the 
 result of Soyer’s consecration of his thoughts to the comfort of meaner mortals 
 than those for whom he had formerly catered.” 
 
 Builder.— “We introduce M. Soyer’s ‘ Modern Housewife,’ with a full 
 conviction that she will prove a useful adviser.” 
 
 Bell’S Sjife. — “We would that all young ladies included in their 
 studies the art of housekeeping—the true secret of making their husbands 
 and those about them happy.” 
 
 Weekly Chronicle.— “ No extract can give an idea of a book which, 
 from cover to cover, is so full of good things, none of them requiring labour 
 to digest.” 
 
 Family Circle.— “ The name of Soyer has become almost historical.” 
 
 Hampshire Advertiser.— “All is sensible and unique, and 
 calculated to improve the taste and economize the expenditure.” 
 
 Durham Chronicle.—“All those who have the health to enjoy a 
 good dinner, are indebted to M. Soyer for his judiciously-arranged battery of 
 recipes, and young housewives especially will find this book most valuable.” 
 
 SSxeter Flying Post. —“The name of Soyer is renowned in all 
 matters appertaining to gastronomy—indeed, his authority is undisputed in 
 the art of cookery.” 
 
OPINIONS OP THE PRESS. 
 
 I'Serald. —“We recommend this volume to the notice of the 
 ‘fair daughters of Albion' to whom it is presented, assuring them that an 
 attention to its sound and economical rules will do much to insure the hap- 
 piness and comfort of a well-regulated household.” 
 
 The Scotsman.— “Here is an elegant and refined cookery book, 
 not a dry commonplace collection of receipts, but a select system o cu mary 
 economy. Soyer is by turns philosophical, scientific, historical, picturesque, 
 
 dramatic, and poetical.” 
 
 Manchester Examiner.— “ To all good wives, therefore and 
 gentle daughters, aunts, mothers, and grandmothers, we say, as no doub t 
 our ingenious author would say, ‘ Bead, mark, learn, and inwardly digest. 
 
 Leicester Chronicle.—" The book can hardly fail to be a general 
 
 favourite.” 
 
 Bucks SSerald —“ To illustrate the economy and the advantage of 
 e0 od cookery is the object of M. Soyer’s most excellent work-a work e- 
 ferving of a^lace in every lady’s library, or rather, of a constant place on her 
 
 table.” . . 
 
 Birmingham Journal.— “ The ethics of boiling and simmenn 
 are inculcated in the manner of Chesterfield indoctrinating his offspring with 
 the principles of politeness.” 
 
 Norfolk News.—" This is a very unique performance. It is not 
 merely the art of cookery made easy, bnt the practice of cookery made in¬ 
 teresting. The first impression of the work was sold in a few days. 
 
 Edinburgh Courant.-" The work npon our table is wholly 
 popular.” 
 
 Bristol Mirror.— “ That most accomplished professor of the culinary 
 art, M. Soyer, has, in the volume before us, produced a work which will ba 
 really invaluable to housewives. 
 
 ■Bristol Mercury.— “The elements which in the hands of ‘a good 
 p ®n “1’ gfto tonish an indifferent and hardly-digestible meal, are 
 
 sublimated by the skid of a Soyer. 
 
 Oxford University Merald.-“ We may safely commend the 
 book to all our readers who have anything to do either with cookery or 
 housewifery. To the wives and daughters of the Clergy we should say it 
 was an invaluable manual, whether with reference to the tables of them ovm 
 households, or the dietary of the sick poor, whom with so much real ch „ 
 they tend and provide for.” 
 
 Cambridgeshire Gfironicle.—“ It contains a great deal of 
 go* “S!dvice, and we suspect that by attention to its —m o ? 
 mode of living might be considerably improved, withont addmg to its cost. 
 
soyer’s modern housewife. 
 
 Gioucestersilire Chronicle.—“ This is a £ Gastronomic Rege¬ 
 nerator’ in little—a perfectly distinct work, and on a different plan; but 
 still, alike in treatment.” 
 
 K.ent Merald .—“ The work is comprehensive beyond any of a 
 similar character with which we are acquainted.” 
 
 ^Principality.—“Like its author, this book is without a parallel.” 
 
 Berkshire Chronicle.—“We can honestly recommend it to the 
 public favour; for its contents, as well as its subjects, deserve to be well 
 digested.” 
 
 Sira.—“ In this work he never loses sight of economy, but shows how it 
 may be observed to the greatest possible advantage. ” 
 
 Morning P*OSt .—“ Henceforth no cook, no countess, no scholar, no 
 scullion, no philosopher, no feeder, will think an establishment complete 
 where the ‘ Modern Housewife’ is not present.” 
 
 Britannia.— ££ The attempt of M. Soyer to render his skill as service¬ 
 able at the tables of little people as it has already been at the feasts of the 
 great, will most likely be successful—he will show how the humblest food 
 may be most palatably dressed, and made most conducive to health and 
 enjoyment.” 
 
 Economist.—“ M. Soyer is to make families happy by teaching wives 
 how to prepare food cheaply and serve it well.” 
 
 Haiterary Mirror.—“ Confessedly by all, M. Soyer stands on the 
 pinnacle of fame in this respect. He is the arbiter elegantiarum on all table 
 subjects^ and has pierced the innermost penetralia of every mystery on the 
 subject of diet and its preparation. He is Sir Oracle : and when he speaks, 
 let all men be dumb.” 
 
 JTohn Bull—“ intends to make a daily trial of the receipts before he will 
 give an opinion, that the great culinary reformer and his menagere will 
 improve upon acquaintance.” 
 
 Sfforth British Mail .—“ We heartily advise all pleasant hus¬ 
 bands and judicious wives to purchase it without delay.” 
 
 Bridgewater Times.—“ To all who are not too old to learn, or too 
 proud to receive instruction, this book will prove a most useful adviser.” 
 
 Biterary Cs-azette.—“ With regard to the book, for economy and 
 comfort, neatness without extravagance, and a thousand lessons for com¬ 
 pounding pleasant and palatable dishes, the fair menagere is to be glorified. 
 We may truly state that a more instructive cookery book could not be 
 desired.” 
 
SOYER’S MAGIC STOVE 
 
 AND 
 
 tUlUputfan Apparatus, 
 
 SPECIALLY ADAPTED 
 
 FOR OUT-DOOR COOKING. 
 
 Price Thirty-Five Shillings. 
 
 THE MAGIC KITCHEN, 
 
 REPLETE WITH EVERY ESSENTIAL REQUISITE 
 
 toie TOAviiaMmi* 
 
 The most useful, ingenious, simple, and economical Cooling 
 Apparatus ever invented, by which, for a trifle, any person may 
 cook his own breakfast, dinner, or supper, without the aid of 
 fuel. It may be used in the parlour of the wealthy, the office 
 of the merchant, the studio of the artist, or the attic of the 
 humble. By all it will be found a most useful article of furni¬ 
 ture; and must become a household favourite. It is also useful 
 to chemists and scientific persons for experiments, being the 
 greatest known agent of heat. Manufactured by A. Soyer 
 and Co., 42, Trinity-square, Tower-hill. 
 
SOYEB’S MAGIC STOVE, 
 
 FOR COOKING WITH GAS GENERATED FROM HEATED 
 
 SPIRITS OF WINE. 
 
 N.B.—The boiler should never be more than half full. 
 
 To charge the Reservoir G correctly, pour out the spirit which might 
 
 remain in the boiler into the measure, which fill up with fresh, and return 
 
 into the Boiler. Of course, if over filled, it is liable to boil over. 
 
 A —The Lamp containing the Spirit for heating the Reservoir G. 
 
 B—The Burner which heats the Reservoir G, and which should immediately 
 be extinguished on the Spirit being exhausted in the Reservoir, 
 otherwise it might injure the bottom of the Reservoir. 
 
 C—The Burner which ignites the vaporized Gas from F, as it passes from 
 the Reservoir G. 
 
 D—The Filler of the Lamp A . 
 
 E— The Ball. 
 
 F —The Pipe which conveys the vaporized Gas inside the Reservoir G to the 
 Burner G, where it becomes ignited. This should at all times be kept 
 clear with the probe. 
 
 G —The Reservoir containing the measure of Spirit for vaporization. 
 
 H —The Rod of the Lamp A which connects it to the Stove K. 
 
 I—The Flue of the Stove through which the Flame passes. 
 
 K—The Stove. 
 
 The screws must be screwed straight and air-tight. 
 
SOYER’S 
 
 MODERN HOUSEWIFE’S KITCHEN APPARATUS. 
 
 Registered according to Act of Parliament. 
 
 M. Soyer in writing his work on Cookery for the middle classes, naturally 
 turned his attention to the most economical mode of cooking; and after 
 haying- examined all the various plans now in use, found none that combined 
 all that he required; he was therefore under the necessity of contriving a 
 new Stove or Apparatus. 
 
 It possesses, on a small scale, what the kitchen of the Reform Club has on 
 a large one:—combining, in the first place, an excellent open roasting fire; 
 secondly, a large oven, adapted for bread, meat, and pastry; thirdly, a hot 
 plate, with a place for boiling, and twelve stew-pans, if required; fourthly, 
 a circulating hot-water boiler, which is capable of keeping in a boiling state 
 twenty-five gallons of water in any part of the house, all heated by one fire; 
 it also combines the advantage of permitting the cook to walk round the 
 stove, by which two, or even three persons can work at it with great facility 
 at the same time; it likewise possesses the advantage of curing smoky 
 chimneys, and of causing no dirt in the room, and also of consuming very 
 little fuel. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR USE. 
 
 During the time cooking is going on, fill up the fire-place with coals to a 
 level with the top of the boilers; should the heat in the oven be found too 
 great, turn the damper; as soon as the cooking is over, and nothing but hot 
 water is required, the fire may be allowed to go as low as possible, as very 
 \ little will keep the water boiling. 
 
 To Broil. —Remove the round plate, and place the gridiron over; if the 
 draught is proper, and the apparatus in good working order, the steam from 
 the article broiling will be drawn into the fire, if not, it shows it wants 
 clearing. 
 
 To Clean it. —Take up the square front plate, sweep out the soot from 
 over the oven, open the soot-door at the back, and remove all dirt, &c. . 
 
 To Clean the Flue. —Open the soot-door in the flue, and use the patent | 
 ramoneure. 
 
 — 
 
 A. SOYER & CO., 42, TRIM ITY SQUARE, TOWER HILL. 
 
ANY SIZE TO OBDEB 
 
 SOYER’S PHIDOMAGEIREION, 
 
 OB 
 
 MODERN GAS COOKING APPARATUS, 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 The Necessary Arrangements (complete) for Roasting, Baking, Boiling, 
 Broiling, Stewing, Steaming, drying, &c. &c., for Sixty or Eighty persons, 
 at an incredible low cost. 
 
 A. SOYER & CO,, 42, TRINITY SQ., TOWER HILL. 
 
 Manufactured by SMITH & PHILLIPS, 66, Snow Hill. 
 
 Length, 4ft.; Height, 2ft. 6in.; Breadth, 18 in- 
 
i 
 
 SOYER’S COTTAGER’S STOVE, 
 
 * 
 
 To be seen at Messrs, Deane, Dray and Deane’s. The greatest 
 comfort in the way of economical Kitchen for the humble and 
 the poor ever invented; especially adapted for Emigrants— 
 Baking, Boiling, Boasting, Washing, Ironing, Drying Linen, 
 Warming Rooms of any size; the whole of which is done with 
 perfect ease, and very small quantity of fuel. Entirely fire-proof. 
 Price 50s. 
 
 SOYER’S MAGIC COFFEE POT, 
 
 AND * 
 
 SOYER’S ECO COOKING APPARATUS, ! 
 
 To be had at 42, Trinity-square, Tower-hill. 
 
 .__ t 
 
 - 
 
 ' j 
 
 SOYER’S RELISH. 
 
 ! 
 
 An entirely new and economical Condiment, adapted for all 
 kinds of viands, which, by those who have tasted it, has been 
 pronounced perfect. Sold in half-pint bottles, by Crosse and 
 Blackwell, Soho-square. 
 
SOYER’S SAUCES. 
 
 \_One expressly for the Ladies , and the other for the Gentlemen.^ 
 
 For the high estimation in which these Sauces are held, the 
 following remarks from the press will show. 
 
 Price 2s. 6d. per Bottle. 
 
 Amongst the very few good things for which we have been indebted to the French 
 daring the last few weeks, is to be reckoned a new sauce from the laboratory of Pro¬ 
 fessor Soyer, of the Whig College, commonly called the Reform Club. We beg to 
 acknowledge the receipt of a specimen, which arrived a few days since at our office, 
 with a communication highly characteristic of the learned Sauce-rer. John Bull is not 
 addicted to kickshaws, but gratitude compels him to notify the pleasure which he de¬ 
 rived from his last steak, seasoned as it was with the specimen above referred to. 
 
 John Bull, 29 th April, 1848. 
 
 Jhe great Napoleon of Gastronomy, the man who has, by bringing the lights of 
 chemistry to bear on the art of preparing viands for the food of man, raised cookery 
 from an art to the dignity of a science, M. Soyer, has invented a sauce (or rather two 
 sauces), sauce succulente (on & pour les Messieurs, and another pour les Dames), in com¬ 
 parison with which all other sauces are “ stale, dull, flat, and unprofitable.” There is 
 a warmth and flavour about the sauce succulente of Soyer which gives a zest to appetite, 
 and imparts a relish to chop, steak, cold meat, or whatever other comestible it may be 
 used with, which is most piquant and delicious. A very small quantity is sufficient to 
 impart the most delicious flavour. The bottle containing the sauce, too, is worthy of 
 all praise as a most elegant specimen of “ art manufacture.” It is quite an ornament 
 to the table. The great chef of the Reform Club has added immensely to his reputa¬ 
 tion by his invention of the sauce succulente. Sun, 2nd May, 1848. 
 
 The Fine Arts. —A great deal that it is from time to time our lot to notice under 
 this head is merely ornamental—if even that; we are happy in an opportunity of no¬ 
 ticing the application of “ high art” to a purpose really useful. M. Soyer— clarum et 
 venerabile nomen —has recently conferred a new obligation on civilized society, by the 
 invention of a sauce for general purposes, so perfect that ‘'it would create a soul 
 under the ribs of death.” It is piquant without being pungent, and of the highest 
 flavour without conveying any definite taste. And if such be its physical qualities, it 
 soars still higher in its moral tendencies; for though admirably calculated to form 
 domestic dishes, it carefully eschews the promotion of domestic jars; there is one sort 
 appropriated to ladies, and another to gentlemen. After a lifetime devoted to experi¬ 
 mental philosophy, it has been reserved for Alexis Soyer to discover, despite “ wise 
 saws and modern instances,” that the sauce that is good for the goose is not good for 
 the gander. Morning Post, 15th May, 1848. 
 
 A New Devouring Element. —You all know Soyer the Philanthropist, who pre¬ 
 tends to be so full of his fellow-creatures? Can you doubt it after the following? 
 Read it, and feel “like goose’s flesh” all over!—“ Soyer’s New Sauce for Ladies and 
 Gentlemen!!!” Was there ever such a cannibal? And this is the man who would 
 wish to redress our society and our dinners! Why, it is regularly setting man against 
 wife, son against mother-in-law, pauper against beadle, boots against cook! No lady, 
 no gentleman is safe. The aristocracy is on the verge of the sauce-boat. We denounce 
 Soyer as the greatest traiteur in England, or even Ireland, and the latter is saying, at 
 present, an immense deal. Punch, 25th May, 1848. 
 
 M. Soyer has invented a new sauce—a day or two ago there was a magnificent 
 article upon it in the Chronicle, written by Mr. Disraeli—a new sauce of such wondrous 
 power, that with it Colonel Sibthorpe has already professed himself ready to swallow 
 the Charter! Punch, 6th May, 1848. 
 
 M. Soyer is a real benefactor to society, and we therefore, with pleasure, acknow¬ 
 ledge the merit of his “ most novel and delicious of all modern social inventions,” to 
 quote the language of his advertisements, which have appeared in our paper. 
 
 Morning Advertiser, 25th April, 1848. 
 
Lately published, in 8vo, 15s. cloth lettered, the Eighth Edition of the 
 
 GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR: 
 
 A SIMPLIFIED AND ENTIRELY NEW 
 
 SYSTEM OF COOKERY, 
 
 WITH NEARLY 
 
 TWO THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECEIPTS. 
 
 Illustrated with numerous Engravings, and correct and minute Plans how 
 Kitchens of every size, from the Kitchen of a Royal Palace to that of 
 the humble Cottage, are to be constructed and furnished. 
 
 BY 
 
 MONSIEUR A. SOYER, 
 
 AUTHOR OF “THE MODERN HOUSEWIFE,” ETC. ETC. 
 
 Lately published, in royal 8vo, handsomely bound in cloth, price 
 One Guinea, with 42 Steel-plate Engravings, 
 
 THE PANTROPHEON: 
 
 OR, 
 
 THE HISTORY OE E00E AND ITS PREPARATION 
 
 ifront % (Surliest giJjes of tlje Morlb'. 
 
 BY 
 
 MONSIEUR A. SOYER. 
 
 Containing a full Description of the Art and Origin of Agriculture amongst 
 the Ancients, the various species of Cereals, Grinding of Corn, various 
 Mills, Manipulation of Flour, Grains, Herbs for Seasoning, &c.; Animal 
 Food, Poultry, Game, Fish, Milk, Butter, Cheese, and Eggs; Water, 
 Wine, Liquors, Tea, Coffee, Chocolate, Cocoa; Repasts, Feasts, Suppers 
 amongst the Greeks and Romans ; Antique and Modern Banquets Illus¬ 
 trated ; and above 500 Recipes of Ancient Cookery ; and an Account of the 
 Medicinal Qualities attributed to Ingredients used in the Preparation of 
 Food and Beverages. 
 
 LONDON : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., 
 
 stationers’ hall court. 
 
LONDON 
 
 EAVILL AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS, CHANDOS STREET, 
 
 COVENT GARDEN 
 
THE 
 
 HAMILTONIAN SYSTEM; 
 
 OR, 
 
 A SHORT AND EASY METHOD OP LEARNING AN 
 UNKNOWN LANGUAGE 
 BY A CLOSE INTERLINEAR TRANSLATION. 
 
 “ The Hamiltonian System SJSreh^way^y thelexicon or dic- 
 
 _insitfiflH of leaving the pupil ._nrnaress has been 
 
 ttSSgVS tleloois SSSffAffS-A- —’ by James 
 
 Hamilton .”—Edinburgh Reviewu ___ 
 
 The following Books are published on the Hamiltonian 
 System, by Aylott and Co., 8, Paternoster Row 
 
 d. 
 
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 Epitome Historise Sacrse 4 
 
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 Cicero in Catdinam .... 4 
 
 Sallust. ^ 
 
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 Gregory’s Conspectus, 2 v. 3.0 
 
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PUBLISHED BY AYLOTT & CO., 8, PATERNOSTER ROW, 
 
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