UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY Class Volume Ja 09-20 M Return Latest )OK on or before the stamped below. ers ity of Illinois D. C. Ireland 6c Co , no Front St, Portland, Or. UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY Class ^VT^<=> Volume Ja 09-20 M 3 # '!>) ,l ;.'j , >< , ^ , W^»l'<»Mii<'!><%J<>ii^^»|H|i<^il«t < »)iMiH l | l ><>><»^H.»M«il*» , lt«>t»l«»>>|IWH,»iK.H l )1‘><’^M»M»r>< , M l >< < t<’>< ll U l Wrft < Hi/ For the Use and Information of Immigrants. Issued hy the Oregon Immigration Board. Wi * y,m ^ **• ^ ^ vi Ti UTi^rkm»^ni^«kiUi , a ’ca ^ au a»u® mn'ixb&'Aut D. C. Ireland 8c. Co , no Front St, Portland, Or. t ' t ' 1 * • INTRODUCTION. It is a matter of the most vital interest to the thousands of people who are coming to this country, to be put into possession of accurate and trustworthy information regarding it. That is the purpose of these printed pages. This publication is issued under the authority of the Immigration Board of Oregon. At the rooms of the Board in Portland the Immigrant will meet with a cordial welcome from the Secretary, who will give information about farms and lands for sale by private parties, or open to settlement, and in relation to the country generally, free of charge. At these headquarters the Immigrant will find a free reading room, where newspapers, maps, scrap-books, and records of farms and other lands, are always open to inspection of new-comers. Adjoining this office is a room for the temporary deposit of small bag- gage and parcels belonging to Immigrants. When you arrive in Portland make these rooms your headquarters. OH AS. H. DODD, Chairman. 0. B. CARLISLE, Secretary. 0 \ 3 > Falls of the Willamette , at Oregon City. Oregon As It Is. As an agricultural region of country, offering rare inducements, and as a field for industrial and financial operations of all kinds, Oregon has, of late, come so largely into the perception or view of those who, out of the overcrowded elsewhere, are seeking new homes, that an in- tense and an almost universal desire to obtain accurate and trustworthy information in relation to the State has been awakened. This is shown in the thousands of letters of inquiry directed to persons, officials, and corporations, in all parts of the State. The object of this publication is to supply just this information — information that shall be full, right to the point, practical — that may be depended upon — taken upon the read- ing. There is nothing expedient or honest in over-wrought or highly- colored and rhethorically-embellished statements regarding this State as an immigration field. Oregon has nothing to lose, but all to gain, by a close and .thorough investigation of all her offerings. Within the immense area of about 96,000 square miles, all desirability is held; nearly every interest is embraced; the agricultural factor is almost limitless, and for the investment of capital, and pluck, and energy, the field in Oregon is golden with opportunity. No country in the world offers greater in- ducements to farmers than Oregon. She has an immense area of most fertile lands, easily reached by rail or water, and a system of transporta- tion throughout the interior, affording ample facilities for sending pro- ductions to market. Improved farms, as will be seen elsewhere in this pamphlet, can be purchased at prices which, to the Eastern farmer, must seem very reasonable. On these farms the immigrant will find himself in a well-peopled neighborhood, and within easy reach of all the com- forts, conveniences, if not elegancies, of the most refined civilization. THE STATE AS A WHOLE. Having a Pacific Ocean coast line of about 300 miles as its western boundary, a width of 350 miles from east to west, 275 miles in extent from north to south, Oregon embraces an area of 60,000,000 acres of land. It is a vast domain crowded with bountiful resources that an em- pire might well covet. It is a land of wonderful resources, for her val- leys, both in extent and productiveness, are unmatched anywhere on the globe; her hill and mountain sides bear millions of acres of splendid timber; many of her hills are ribbed with the precious metals and valu- able ores; the climate never made an honest enemy; her stock interests are almost beyond competition; her cereals are famous the world over; her fruit unparalleled for size or flavor; her markets and transportation among the best; her commerce compares more than favorably with that 4 OREGON AS IT IS. of most of the older States; her industrial and ‘manufacturing features already great and rapidly augmenting; her shipping is among the first in the countiy, she has an educational and school interest of which any of oui States might well boast-; her cities and towns, great and small, are glowing, thrifty, busy communities; she has a dominant church in- terest and a social status that is in all its phases the equal of that of any of the refined and cultured communities in our common country. Briefly outlined, that is Oregon as a whole. Putting these features to- gether they constitute a rosary of inviting and potent inducements to the intending immigrant, whether he comes from the overcrowded and un- piofitable districts of our Southern, Eastern or Western States. KAILROAm To reach this land of promise, immediate and impending is, at this time, an easy matter. Few portions of the common country are more accessible, either by rail or water. Two transcontinental lines — the Union Pacific and Oregon Short Line, and the Northern Pacific,— bring the traveler to our commercial metropolis, and, during 1885, perhaps, a third line from California will be completed. A regular line of steam- ships run semi-weekly between San Francisco and Portland. Once in Portland, the immigrant will find rail and river communication with all parts of the State and the Pacific Northwest. A dozen lines of travel radiate from Portland to all portions of the State, and the traveler will find journeying rapid and comparatively inexpensive. The Oregon Short Line is the connecting link between the Oregon Railway and Nav- igation Company’s lines and those of the Union Pacific system. The Oregon Railway and Navigation Company, the Oregon Short Line and the Union Pacific form the new through broad-gauge line, with through cars, and affords the immigrant a splendid opportunity of seeing the Southern Idaho country and that portion of Oregon lying east of the Cascades. Emigrant sleepers, with free berths, are hauled the entire length of the Oregon Short Line and Northern Pacific, on first-class passenger trains. Appended are the routes of travel which now radiate from Portland, with the mileage in operation : upper Columbia route. Miles. From Portland to The Dalles, by the Oregon Railway and Naviga- tion Company’s steamboats 110 From Portland to Bolles’ Junction, by the Oregon Railway and 1 Navigation Company’s Railway 270 From Bolles’ Junction to Dayton, by the Oregon Railway and Nav- igation Company’s Railway - 13 from Bolles’ Junction to Riparia, on the Snake River, by the Ore- gon Railway and Navigation Company’s Railway 31 OREGON AS IT IS. 5 From Walla Walla to Pendleton, via Oregon Railway and Naviga- tion Company’s Railway 40 From Riparia to Lewiston, on Snake River, by tlie Oregon Railway and Navigation Company’s steamboats 78 From Umatilla to Pendleton, by the Oregon Railway and Naviga- tion Company’s Railway 148 From Umatilla to Huntington, by the Oregon Short Line 217 From Wallula Junction to St. Paul and Duluth, Minn., by the Northern Pacific Railroad. 1959 From Palouse Junction, on the main line of the Northern Pacific Railroad, to Colfax 88 From Portland to Umatilla and Baker City and Huntington, via O. R. & N. Railway and Oregon Short Line 404 WILLAMETTE VALLEY ROUTES. From Portland to Ashland, by the Oregon & California Railroad. . 341 From Albany to Lebanon, by the Oregon & California Railroad 15 From Portland to Corvallis, by the Oregon & California Railroad. . 97 From Portland to Coburg, by the u arrow-gauge division of the Or- egon Railway & Navigation Company 120 From Portland to Airlie, by the narrow-guage division of the Or- egon Railway and Navigation Company 37 From. Airlie to Sheridan, branch of last named road. 7 From Portland to Dayton, Or., by Oregon Railway and Navigation Company’s steamboats 45 From Portland to Corvallis, by Oregon Railway and Navigation Company’s steamboats 115 LOWER COLUMBIA ROUTE. From Portland to Astoria, by Oregon Railway and Navigation Com- pany’s steamboats 98 PUGET SOUND ROUTE. From Portland to Kalama, by Oregon Railway and Navigation Company’s steamboats 38 From Portland to Tacoma, by Northern Pacific Railroad (Pacific Division) 147 WATERWAYS. The Columbia ranks with the great rivers of the world. It forms the northern boundary of the State, and, for a distance of more than 200 miles, is a means of travel and transportation, and almost uninterrupt- edly so. Upon its bosom ships and steamers navigate at all seasons, transporting the products of the State to foreign climes or domestic ports. It is an avenue of wealth and wonder; Oregon’s highway to the sea, and the artery of her commercial relations with the vast domain to the north. The Willamette, the largest affluent of the Columbia, flows through the heart of the valley of the same name, and is navigable for steamers through the grain-producing regions of that locality. The largest steamships and other ocean-going vessels ascend it to Portland. Snake River, another navigable stream, and one of the largest tributaries of the Columbia, forms the eastern boundary of Oregon, and separates it from the Territory of Idaho. Steamers ascend it to Lewiston, a distance 6 OREGON AS IT IS. of 150 miles from its confluence with the Columbia. The Cowlitz is a tributary of the Columbia. This river flows in the midst of a splendid country, and is navigable for thirty-five miles. Along the coast, and emptying their waters into the ocean, are the Rogue, Coquille, Umpqua, Siuslaw and other smaller streams. In the eastern part of the State we have the Umatilla, the Des Chutes, John Day and many other smaller streams. CLIMATE. Among the advantages of a civilized condition of society there can be no more powerful factor for progress and for individual comfort and happiness than a genial climate. That is claimed for this State. The State, as a whole, has nothing to lose and much to gain by a careful and intelligent examination of the meteorological conditions and a compari- son with the most favored habitable sections of the common country. The climate of Oregon is signally healthful and invigorating. The strong point is its evenness. The mean average heat of July is 67 degrees. The mean average cold of January is 46 degrees; showing a mean deviation of only 21 degrees during the year. This compares favorably with the best climates in the United States. The violent atmospheric changes, or wide variations of temperature, so common in the Middle, Southern and Western States, are wholly unknown here. The summer is never made suddenly and abnormally cold — a reversal of the season — nor suddenly and abnormally hot. The extreme cold in the valleys, during ordinary years, is, for the most part, a white frost, with a formation of ice an inch thick in exposed places. No matter how warm the days may be the nights are always cool enough to enable one to sleep soundly and refreshingly under a fair quantity of bed clothing. There is never the heat that enervates nor the cold that produces a torpor or inability to work. The air offers the tonic coolness needed by a man engaged in outdoor industry, while it has the mildness that is sootliiug and restful for his periods of relaxation. There is in the air that steady tone which is in itself an inspiration, and inviting to labor on the part of man and beast. Medium-weight woolen underwear is universally worn during the entire year. Sunstrokes are unknown. Meat may be cured and fruit dried in the sun, and the good house-wife has no worry about moisture on her windows or plastered walls. Nature has struck a happy medium between the climate of California, with its alternations of wet and dry seasons, and that of the Eastern States, with their shifting and uncertain changes. We do not have, here in Oregon, the torrid heat of California, nor do our winters remind us much of eastern freezings and thawings. The trade winds of the Pacific moderate the heat and cold, and with the great Japanese Ocean current, serve as a regulator of temperature. The thermometer rarely rises above eighty degrees in summer, in the hottest days, and scarcely ever sinks OREGON AS IT IS. 7 below twenty in winter. So the most active outdoor labor may be per- formed throughout the year. Strictly speaking, the distinction of the seasons does not exist in Western Oregon as in the Eastern States, nor is the application of the terms dry and wet season entirely suitable. The rains, beginning last of September, fall with increasing frequency in the succeeding months, from November 20th, and reaching their maximum in anv one of the winter months. Diminishing then in intensity, they continue through June, falling then semi-occasionally and exerting no ill- effect, excepting in case that the grain crop may suffer if far enough advanced. The rain-fall during a summer month may amount to two inches, or it may be nothing. Only twice in forty years have the grain crops been injured by untimely rains, for the season of harvesting is pre-eminently the dry time. The summer of 1883 was exceptionally dry; less than one-fifth of an inch of rain fell in June, July and August, and it was not until the last of September that the rain fell in sufficient quantities to extinguish the forest fires and clear the atmosphere of smoke which had for months obscured the country. Notwithstanding the lack of rain and the uncommonly warm season, no loss occurred to the farmers, but a very profitable crop was harvested. Drouth is never known in the Willamette Yalley. There is, however, a peculiarity worthy of note. The occurrence of “cold snaps” of considerable severity, at intervals of ten or twenty years, constitutes an evil, which, although of no consequence in comparison with the extremes of other climates, is yet sufficiently remarkable to be noticed. These storms have only oc- curred, with severity, twice, or, at most, three times, since the advent of white men. They are characterized by the depression of the thermome- ter nearly, or quite to zero, and more particularly by strong and long- continued north or east winds, and a light fall of snow. According to the mortality statistics of the census of 1880, Oregon stands at the head of the list of States for healthfulness, the percentage of deaths to population being .69, Missouri standing 1.63. It is the easiest thing in the world to write up this feature, and to make exagger- ated and unsustainable assertions, but the Immigration Bureau aims at perfect reliability, and therefore presents only substantiated facts. These undoubtedly establish the assertion that Oregon as a whole, or in part, is the healthiest portion of the continent. In evidence of the above statement, we present the following record (official) of the average number of deaths per annum in every 1000 sol- diers, by disease : Florida, 26 ; Texas, 50 ; New Mexico, 20 ; Department of the Columbia, 9. Taking the years 1868 and 1869, we have the follow- ing : Florida, 16 ; Texas, 11 ; New Mexico, 8; Department. of the Co- lumbia, 1. The years 1870 and 1874 show the same average ratio of those making residence in the Northwest. From 1874 to 1880 the death rate \gas, in this department, less than four in every 1000, while in the East it was 8 OREGON AS IT IS. about eight. In the deaths from malaria, this department shows an average of ten per 1000, and in Arizona 160 per 1000. In diseases of the respiratory organs, the average here is one in 1000, while in Florida it is three in 1000. In the three months which we call Winter we have the climate of many lands. Another strong argument in favor of our climate is in its relation to agricultural production. The superior quality of our wheat, famous the world over, clearly establishes and enforces the fact that we have the sunshine, long days, cool nights, less intense heat in maturing months, necessary for the perfect growth of the highest grade of wheat. Not only this cereal, but the best climate for oats, rye, barley, corn, hops, grasses, flax, vegetables, fruit of all kinds, and berries of every kind imaginable, as belonging to the temperate regions. MOUNTAINS. The two principal ranges of mountains in the State are the Coast and Cascade. They extend north and south in the western part of the State. The Willamette Valley lies in between these ranges, widest near Portland and narrowest 150 miles to the south, where the ranges are united by the Calapooia watershed. In the midst of the Cascade range we have Mount Hood, with its elevation of over 11,000 feet, and Mount Jefferson, 9020 feet high, as the principal peaks. Within view of the greater portion of the western and northern portion of the State, are Mount Adams and St. Helens. These ranges are unlike any seen east of the Rockies, and at all times possess a peculiar charm, and under their protecting influence the valleys enjoy that justly celebrated equability of temperature, and a much greater degree of warmth in winter and cool- ness in summer than is exprienced in a similar latitude on the Atlantic coast. During the greater part of the year these hills are charming in their robes of brightest green. They are interesting at all seasons. VAULEYS. The principal valley in the State is the Willamette. It is 150 miles in length and has an average width of about fifty miles. The head of the valley lies about midway between the forty -third and the forty- fourth parallels, north latitude, and extends along the one hundred and twenty-third meridian to the Columbia River, which, near the forty-sixth parallel, forms the northern boundary. The valley is hemmed in on the east by the Cascade Mountains, on the west by the Coast Range, and on the south by the Calapooia Mountains. Following the contour of the coast, sometimes close upon it, and again from thirty to forty miles away, the Coast Range divides the Willamette from the many narrow valleys along the sea shore. The Cascade Range separates it from Eastern Oregon. In the neighborhood of forty -four degrees north lati- OREGON AS IT IS. 9 tude the Coast and Cascade Mountain chains are united by the Cala- pooia spur. The valley is the widest along a line drawn east and west and a little south of Portland, and narrowest at a point about twenty miles south of Eugene City. Throughout its length numerous lateral valleys debouch upon it. The valley contains an area of about 4,500,000 acres, one-fifth of which is held by actual settlement, or used as grazing lands. With the exception of Maine, the area of the Willamette Valley is greater than any one of the New England States, and nearly a dozen times as large as the smallest of these States. The Willamette, a navi- gable river, rises in the Calapooia Mountains and flows the entire length of the valley. Its general course is north, and in its flow gathers up the water of forty -two streams, several of which are navigable for steam boats of ordinary size. The smaller streams are well below the general level of the country, making the drainage perfect. The Willamette is not the only stream in the valley with an immense volume of water, but broken by verdure-clad islands ; flowing through this “ garden of the Northwest,” now in deep forests, again in the midst of rich meadow lands, it is indeed one of the really picturesque streams of the continent. But it is not a picturesque idleness, for these streams are watering this magnificent valley, forming a highway to a good market, furnishing un- limited power for mills and machinery, and clear, cool drinking water for the thirsty people of our cities and towns. The scenic aspects of the valley are a constant surprise and delight to the tourist or resident, em- bracing views of cloud-capped and snow-shrouded mountain peaks, and the pastoral of hill and dale and wide-reaching farm fields. The central portion of the valley lies at an elevation of from seventy to four hundred feet above tide water, as the figures following will show: The hights are referred to the level of the “basin” below the Willamette Falls. Baker’s Prairie, near Oregon City, is 135 feet above said level; Mollala Prairie, 137; Barlow’s 4934; the surface of Pudding River — formerly known as Putin, of which “ Pudding ” is a clumsy imitation — 37; French Prairie, 138; Lake La Bische, 97; Salem (corner Commercia] and State streets), 113; Jefferson, 173; Albany, 161; Corvallis, 150; Eu- gene City, 373. To these elevations must be added a constant quantity representing the hight of the “ basin ” above sea-level, which, for ordin- ary purposes, may be assumed as twenty feet. The vacant lands of the Willamette Valley; or those open to settle- ment, are of four kinds, viz: United States Government, State, railroad and wagon road grants, and school and university lands. As elsewhere, the government lands are held at the price of $1 25 per acre; or, in case of lands within the limits of railroad grants, at double this rate. The railroad lands are subject to a price which varies according to location, being from $1 25 to . 7 per acre. They are, moreover, to be had on favorable terms as to time and modes of payment. Generally speaking, ten years credit is given; or less, according to the requirements of the 10 OREGON AS IT IS. purchaser. The Oregon and California railroad has yet a large portion of its grant in its possession, and the character of its land compares favorably with that of the adjoining government or private holdings. It is chiefly rolling land, covered more or less thickly with brush, often bearing an immense amount of the finest timber, but sometimes is open prairie, suitable for cultivation and grazing. In respect to the cost of clearing, it is the same as the adjacent tracts. It is well for intending purchasers to bear in mind that the lands spoken of as vacant are so because they require to be cleared before they are of any use. As to the cost of clearing up this brush land, the estimates vary greatly. As for their productiveness, they are not generally a whit behind the best valley lands, and they have, as before pointed out, very great advantages over any valley land. As to the total quantity of unoccupied or untilled lands suitable for settlement along the edges of the valley, there can not be much less than two million acres, making proper deductions for tracts which are worthless because too rocky or too steep. Rich in its agricultural resources, in its cultivated and uncultivated lands, in its water powers and minerals; rich in its colleges and schools of learning, and with a climate unsurpassed for its salubrity, the Willa- mette Valley presents to the immigrant from the East advantages that cannot be matched anywhere in this country. Harney Valley is the largest body of agricultural land in Grant County. It is 240 miles southeast of The Dalles. There are numerous streams in this valley, and most of the land is very productive. The climate is similar to that of Eastern Oregon generally. The chief inter- est is stock raising. There are upwards of 200,000 head of cattle on the ranges there at all seasons of the year. The timber on the margin of the valley is among the best. Another of the fertile and pleasantly located valleys in Oregon is Grand Ronde, in Union County, Oregon. It contains upwards of 280,000 acres of the best of farming lands; the soil adapted to wheat, rye, oats, barley, and all kinds of vegetables. As a stock raising region it is un- surpassed. It is in the midst of a mountainous region, and is traversed by numerous streams of water. Adjoining Grand Ronde on the east, and really a part of it, is Wallowa Valley, a very rich and extensive country, with the same general characteristics as to soil, timber, stock, grain, and the like. South of this great valley is the Powder River country ; a valley fertile, and especially adapted to stock raising. The railway to Baker City is bringing this land into prominence and making it very valuable. Rogue River Valley lies midway between the Willamette and the Sac- ramento valley. It is especially noted for its fruit, ranking, in this re- spect, above most of the favored places in the country. The climate is OREGON AS IT IS. It splendid the whole year through, and the soil is prolific. The crops of grain are marvelous in the eyes of the eastern fanner. The soil of the foothills is a quick, rich, brown loam, and in the valley proper, a deep, rich, black, vegetable loam. The valley has the best of markets and transportation facilities. GOVERNMENT LAND. There has always been more or less misapprehension among immi- grants regarding Government lands in this State, the general idea being that there are millions of acres of such lands lying in the valleys, and all of it ready for the plow. This is an error. While it is true that there are millions of acres of Government land, open for settlement, it is as true that the great bulk of such land lies in the Cascade and Coast ranges of mountains, and is heavily timbered. Along the foothills there is some sections of Government laud which is denominated “brush land,” and here and there in each quarter section a dozen or twenty acres of open land. This is true of the locality between Forest Grove and Astoria, on the Central grant (now forfeited); it is true of some portions of Columbia Coun- ty, Clackamas County, Washington County and Linn County, in Western Oregon. In the Southern portion of the State, in the Rogue River and Umpqua Valleys, in the Counties of Jackson and Josephine, are large able stretches of Government land. A part of this land lies along the small streams and in the little valleys putting into the Willamette. These tracts are not extensive, and a comparatively small proportion of the whole is available for agriculture. It is possible for the immigrant to find now and then an excellent location on Government land in the localities named here, dnder this heading, but it is a mistake to say that ten thousand immigrants can be so fortunate. If he must have Govern- ment land, the new-comer will have to take his share of heavy timbered land and such land as is removed somewhat from the lines of transporta- tion. These claims will be very valuable by and by, and for the present will, if properly looked after, provide a good home for the immigrant and his family. But that “ properly looked after” means much patience, some hardship and considerable hard work. It is best that the new-comer should realize this truth from the start. Lands without timber will be found in Eastern Oregon, HOW TO OBTAIN GOVERNMENT LAND. PEE-EMPTION. Heads of families, widows or single persons (male or female) over the age of twenty-one years, citizens of the United States, or who have de- clared their intention to become such, under the naturalization laws, may enter upon any “offered” or “unoffered” lands, or any unsurveyed lands to which the Indian title has been extinguished, and purchase not 12 OREGON AS IT IS. exceeding 160 acres under pre-emption laws. A fee of $3 is required within thirty days after making settlement, and within one year, actual residence and cultivation of the tract must be shown, whereupon the pre-emptor is entitled to purchase the same at $1.25 per acre, if outside of railroad land limits, and at $2.50 per acre if within railroad land limits. A pre-emptor may submit proofs of residence at any time after six months, an obtain title to his land. At any time before expiration of time allowed for proof and payment the settler may convert his pre- emption claim into a homestead. No person who abandons his residence upon land of his own to reside upon public lands in the same State or Territory, or who owns 320 acres of land in the same State or Territory, is entitled to the benefits of the pre-emption laws. The latter provision does not apply to a house and lot in town. HOMESTEAD. Any person who is the head of a family, or who has arrived at the age of twenty-one years, and is a citizen of the United States, or who has filed his declaration of intention to become such, is entitled to enter one-quarter section, or less quantity, of unappropriated public land, un- der the homestead. laws. The applicant must make affidavit that he is entitled to the privileges of the Homestead Act, and that the entry is made for his exclusive use and benefit, and for actual settlement and cultivation, and must pay the legal fee and that part of the commissions required as follows : Fee for 160 acres, $10 ; commission, $6 ; fee for 80 acres, $5 ; commission, $4. Within six months the homesteader must take up his residence upon the land, and reside thereupon, and cultivate the same for five years continuously. At the expiration of this period, or within two years thereafter, proof of residence and cultivation must be established by four witnesses. The proof of settlement and certificate of the Register of the Land Office is forwarded to the General Land Office at Washington, from which a patent is issued. Final proof cannot be made until the expiration of five years from date of entry, and must be made within seven years. The Government recognizes no sale of a homestead claim. A settler may prove his residence at any time after six months, and purchase the land under the pre-emption laws if desired. The law allows but one homestead privilege to any one person. soldiers’ homestead. Every person who served not less than ninety days in the army of the United States during “ the recent rebellion,” who was honorably dis- charged and has remained loyal to the Government, may enter a home- stead, and the time of his service shall be deducted from the period of five years, provided that the party shall reside upon and cultivate his homestead at least one year after he commences improvements. The widow of a soldier, or if she be dead or is married again, the minor heirs (if any) may, through their guardian, make a homestead entry, and if OREGON AS IT IS. 13 the soldier died in service, the whole term of his enlistment will be cred- ited upon the terms of required residence. Soldiers and sailors as above may file a homestead declaratory statement for 160 acres of land through an agent, after which they have six months to file their homestead. This latter entry may be made in person. TIMBER CULTURE. Under the timber culture laws not more than 160 acres on anyone sec- tion entirely devoid of timber can be entered, and no person can make more than oDe entry thereunder. The qualifications of applicants are the same as under the xR’e-emption and homestead laws. Land Office charges are $14 for 160 acres, or more than 80 acres; for 80 acres or less, $9 when entry is made and $4 at final proof. Land to be entered must be entirely void of timber. Party making entry of 160 acres is required to break or plow five acres during the first year and five acres during the second year. Tiie five acres broken or plowed during the first year must be cultivated during the second year, and be planted to timber during the third year. The five acres broken or plowed the second year must be cultivated the third year, and planted to timber the fourth year. For entries of less than 160 acres, a proportionate number of acres must be planted to trees. These trees must be cultivated and pro- tected, and at the end of eight years, or within two years after that pe- rio.\ proof by two credible witnesses must be adduced, showing that there were at the end of eight years at least 675 living, thrifty trees on each of the ten acres required to be planted; also that no less than 2700 trees be planted to each of the ten acres. Fruit trees are not considered timber within the meaning of this act. LAND OFFICES. Government Land Offices are located at Oregon City, Clackamas County, Oregon; Eoseburg, Douglas County, Oregon; Lakeview, Lake County, Oregon; The Dalles, Wasco County, Oregon; La Grande, Union County, Oregon; Olympia, Thurston County, Washington Territory; Vancouver, Clarke County, Washington Territory; Yakima City, Yakima County, Washington Territory; Spokane Falls, Spokane County, Washington Ter- ritory; WallaWalla, Walla Walla County,' Washington Territory; LewistoD, Nez Perce County, Idaho. The State Land Office for Oregon is at the seat of government, Salem, Marion County, Oregon. The timber lands lie mainly upon the interior slopes of the mountain ranges. The extent of this timber belt is very great; upon the western slope of the Cascades it is perhaps twenty miles wide, and runs the full length of the range. The locality of the forest extends from the snow line downwards nearly to the plains, but may be said to terminate in the brushy lands. There are some detached bodies of evergreen trees, par- ticularly firs, growing down in the valley, which are large enough for use 14 OREGON AS IT IS. as saw-logs. The trees attain their greatest development at a consider- able altitude. Of the timbered lands, the best trees are found at medium elevations, and are accessible by ordinary logging roads. They have a value de- pending upon their nearness to market, or to streams of sufficient size to float the logs. The land is worth, for the trees alone, from five to fifty dollars per acre, depending upon the size and the number of the trees. “Stumpage,” or the price of standing timber, is usually one dollar or one dollar and a half per thousand feet, board measure. The principal trees found on low lands are the fir, pine, yew, ash, oak, maple, balm, and alder; on the hills there are scatterieg oaks and firs, while in the moun- tain regions grow the firs, pine, spruce, hemlock, cedar, larch, and madron e, with more or less undergrowth, depending on the altitude. FOOTHILLS. While it is true that a very great proportion of the land in the valleys is owned and cultivated by the pioneers, or their descendants, this does not by any means comprise all the farming soil of this State. Besides, it is being shown every day that many of the owners of large farms are willing to divide with the bona fide farming immigrant, and at such rates as make it possible for him to invest in this sort of agricultural land. The foothill region of the State is one especially attractive to immigrants and persons with small means. In that part of the State there is both Government, State and railway land for settlement, and where the land belongs to private parties it can be purchased at a fair and moderate price. The markets of this section are convenient and transportation good. In fact, there is about this foothill region everything which can tend to make life comfortable and farming profitable. The picture is not overdrawn at all. The foothill farmer of the State is among the most prosperous in the State, if not on the American continent. He has ex- ceptional advantages over his brethren in the valleys in his facilities for stock-raising. He has untold acres in the upper hills, upon which he can herd his stock in the Summer months, and he can, without difficulty, cut hay enough to feed his cattle and sheep in the short Winter season. It is gratifying to state that the valleys of the foothill counties of Ore- gon are coming to be appreciated. It is indisputable that the counties verging on the Cascade and Coast Ranges are among the most produc- tive regions of the State. The inconveniences of early days are all passed away, together with the often rapid getting of money, and with it the alternate forced idleness. One might suppose from these facts that all the desirable land is already located. Not so. There are still remaining large quantities of land yet unentered, which, if put into its appropriate crops, is more desirable than any level land, mixed among tracts less valuable. These lands are specially suited to the man who, OREGON AS IT IS. 15 with patience and the help of his family, will soon make them into the most valuable lands in Oregon. All the advances made by the railways have brought these lands into ready connection with good markets, and will make every part of the State more favorably circumstanced than even the best localities formerly were. Men who view farming land as only worthy of consideration where large blocks lie together, or who value it only according to the ease with which large quantities can easily be cultivated, are grossly at fault. It is of no importance to the poor man that the plow can go over 500 acres in a single field. He only wants a hundred acres, or less even, and wants that in plots. In the mountain and foothill regions of Oregon there are a great many of these plots for homesteads for the farmer who cannot manage more than half of the homestead or pre-emption allowance, and who is satisfied that hillsides, if suitable, though often steep, may yield him more income in crops which a family can materially help in winning, than alluvial bottom lands in their crops which have to be won by his sole labor. On these foothill lands he can raise grain, and the best fruit, grapes and the veg- etables, and can always have flocks and herds of cattle. With the aid of sidehill plows these slopes can be utilized for raising grain of all kinds, while for orchards and vineyards no better location can be found anywhere. The foothill lands are destined to play an important part in the future prosperity of Oregon. There is still a good deal of Govern- ment land in these foothill regions, some for settlement through the rail- way land departments, and some school land. In all parts and sections of these localities lands can be secured at very moderate rates. MINERAL WEALTH. The mineral deposits of Oregon are mostly confined to the southern counties of Douglas, Jackson and Josephine, and to the eastern counties of Baker, Grant and Union. The mineral wealth is both large and diversified. Not alone in precious metals, but in coal, iron and other useful minerals the State is exceedingly rich. From the report of H. C. Burchard, Director of the Mint, we take the following table of the pro- duction of gold and silver in this State last year: Counties. Baker Benton Coos Curry Grant Jackson. . . . Josephine. . Union Gold. Silver. Total. $190,000 $5,000 $195,000 5,000 5,000 5,000 5,000 20,000 200 20,200 240,000 25,000 265,000 135,000 2,000 137,000 175,000 2,000 177,000 60,000 800 60,800 $830,000 $35,000 $865,000 Total, 16 OREGON AS IT IS. He says it has been difficult to obtain reliable information as to the amount of gold and silver annually produced from mines in Oregon, for much of it is done by Chinese, who are reticent as to their operations. It is probable that the total in Oregon will be fully SI, 500, 000. In that portion of Baker county through which flow Burnt and Powder rivers and their tributaries, mining has thus far been confined to the precious metals, although minerals containing other metals abound. Placer gold mining, one of the principal industries of the county for more than twenty years, still gives employment to a larere per cent, of the population, but is being gradually relinquished to the Chinese, who seem peculiarly fitted for that work and ready to pay a round price for ground already worked over by white men so long as the yield of gold will pay them fair wages. They are able to make abandoned mines pay, not because they are better miners than white men, but for the reason that they live more cheaply, and are satisfied with smaller returns for their labor. Baker City is about the center of the mining section, nealy all the mines of the county being within a radius of forty miles of that place. Gold was first discovered in Jackson and Josephine Counties in 1851. Perhaps the entire quantity obtained during the last thirty years has not been less than $40,000,000, more than half of which is to be credited to the first decade in which gold mining was prosecuted. Hitherto, as a rule, operations, in all their phases, have been conducted in a very superficial manner. True, some wonderfully rich deposits have been found, and worked with great profit. But only arastras and other primitive methods for crushing the quartz have been used. Claims were generally abandoned after the surface gravel was exhausted. The ex- pense and labor of sinking shafts, driving tunnels, and employing the other scientific and profitable methods now in vogue, have not been applied. There seems at present, however, to be a disposition to prose- cute gold mining with ordinary skill and vigor. Companies have been formed with the capital necessary to develop the real value of the depos- its. Several claims have been opened at various points, on which large amounts have been expended for the requisite machinery to carry on hydraulic mining on a large scale. Coal will take a foremost rank among the mineral resources which are hereafter to be a prime factor in the growth and development of the country. The abundant supply of this raw material will keep in motion many prosperous industries. Immense beds of semi-bituminous and lignite coal are known to underlie many parts of the region. Coal is found at Yaquina, at Port Orford, St. Helens, and in Clackamas, Clatsop and Tillamook Counties. Iron ores, bog, hematite and magnetic, exist in great masses, and may be easily obtained. It abounds on the Columbia River, extending from a point opposite Kalama, southward almost to the falls of the Willamette OREGON AS IT IS. 17 Biver. It is also found in large deposits in the Counties of Columbia, Tillamook, Marion, Clackamas, Jackson and Coos. Smelting furnaces exist at Oswego, on the Willamette Biver, eight miles south of Portland. Deposits of rich copper exist at various points, notably on the line of the Oregon and California Bailroad in Southern Oregon. Lead, tin, zinc, cinnabar, plumbago, gypsum, kaolin, pottery clay, mica, marble, granite, limestone and sandstone are also found. EDUCATIONAL. The people of Oregon are manifestly and justly proud of their educa- tional institutions. No State in the Union makes a more generous pro- vision for its public schools, or has a more complete or effective system, and among the attractions of this State are the inducements it holds out to the intending immigrant of the Old World or our own States, none more worthy of attention than these facilities for popular education. As Oregonians we feel a degree of interest in this subject that justifies the pride we take in pointing to these schools as among the chief attrac- tions, and in claiming for them a high degree of efficiency, an efficiency that will compare more than favorably with that of any other State in the Union. The educational system embraces the three departments: The common schools, the normal schools, and the State University. The Willamette University is located at Salem, the capital of the State, and is in a flourishing condition, with a full corps of professors and teachers. The Pacific University is located at Forest Grove, and is supported by endowments. State University is located at Eugene City, and the Cor- vallis College at Corvallis, to which is attached the State Agricultural College. The income for these institutions Is derived mainly from a direct tax, imposed by law, though much of the support comes from the sale of lands, granted to the State by the general Government. The State Normal Schools are supported by appropriations from a general fund, and are free to all who desire to become teachers in the public schools of the State. The especial pride of the people is the public school system. In each county there is a Superintendent elected by the people, and in each district there are three Directors who manage all public school affairs; one elected each year to serve three years. In all cases the bal- ance of power is held by the profession most interested, and presumably the most competent in the matter. The most remote and thinly popu- lated districts have all the advantages of the public school system. Under this management the progress of these schools has been rapid, steady, and wholly gratifying. New districts are organized each year, and nothing is left to hap-hazard or incompetent management. The salaries paid teachers are such as to induce competition for places from the best people in the profession. The head of a family who brings his children, and comes to cast his lot among us, need have no fear of failing 18 OKEGON AS IT IS. in his duty to them in respect to education. They will find schools, and the best. As to the schools and educational facilities in Portland, they are among the best in the land. CHURCH INTERESTS. The church interest is a dominant one in the State. There is scarcely a community or locality, no matter^, how isolated, but has its house of worship and a large and growing membership. In the cities and towns of the State the church edifices are commodious and handsome struct- ures, and the pulpits are occupied by some of the most able ministers in the country. PRICE OF LAI\I>. A good deal of observation and inquiry inclines us to the belief that the average price of improved land in Oregon is about $20 to $22 50 per acre. Unimproved land in the valleys is estimated at from $10 to $15 per acre, though large tracts are for sale at a much lower figure — as low as $4 per acre. Improved land in the foothills is worth from $8 to $15 per acre, and this is among the best in the State for the man of small means. There are a great many considerations going to affect the price of land, such as remoteness or proximity to large towns, and the market and transportation facilities, the kind of soil, whether there are improve- ments — such as fences, barns and houses. Thus, one might go south from Portland, say sixty-five miles, and find splendid parcels of land at from $30 to $40 per acre, and within ten miles of these bodies of land, and still in proximity to transportation, market and the like, find excel- lent land offered at from $10 to $20 per acre, or even less. All of this land is well watered, and most of it partially timbered. Indeed, go where he will in the Willamette Yalley or in southern or in eastern Oregon, the immi- grant cannot go amiss of all the conditions for successful farming. The railroad and government, as well as school lands, are sold at far less rates than any we have given. School land is sold at $2 per acre; government at $2 50 and $1 25; and railroad lands from $3 to $8, as an average. The immigrant will find plenty of such lands in all portions of the State, convenient to markets and easy of access to transportation lines. Thous- ands of acres in the State are available to the small or large farmer with- asufficient variety of location. In another part of this book we give a list of farms for sale. FARHOCi. As regards the position which agriculture has already attained in this State, it may be said that while it is not so exalted as might with the almost matchless opportunities have been achieved, yet it presents no reason for repining. Progress has been slow; but the community has OREGON AS IT IS. 19 attained the position of a self-supporting people, relying on themselves only for the great bulk cf the necessities of life and some of its luxuries. The exportations are the leading necessities of life, and hence indispensa- ble to the recipients. Small and mixed farming -interchangeable terms — are the tendency of the day, and in their progress point to the decline of wheat-raising, because by their pursuit the land becomes gradually too valuable to devote to a crop which is liable to return its raiser only $10 or $12 per acre. More lucrative pursuits will take its place, and these will be equally well adapted to the climate and soil, but will require much labor for their proper production. The question is often asked, “ How do you farm? ” It is simply im- possible to give any general rule. The farmer in Marion county carries on his occupation in accordance with the character of his soil and climatic surroundings. The farmer in Douglas, or Lane, or Benton counties adopts the mode best suited to his soil and climate. The first thing is to find the real character of soil or climate; the second, to farm in accordance with that character. Farmers who have followed mixed husbandry In the older Eastern States, are needed here to introduce diversified agriculture, and demon- strate that “ some things can be done as well as others.” Wheat is the great staple, but we need the experience of men who can establish a ju- dicious diversity in production. The class of farmers we have here al- ready carry on mixed farming to some extent, but they depend chiefly on wheat for the income of the farm, growing oats, barley, hay, fruit and vegetables for their own use, but not demonstrating, as a rule, that the farm can have something as a source of income every month in the year. The hay crop of the State is not excessive, as the demand for prepared stock feed is necessarily small. The natural grasses of the State are very abundant and nutritious, and it has not been found necessary to re- place them by cultivated varieties, as has been done in the Eastern States, except in Western Oregon. In the open spots in the mountains grasses, green for the greater portion of the year, grow thickly, and are generally covered and shaded by fern. These grasses form the principal sustenance of the cattle and sheep which may chance to be in the neighborhood. The wild peavine grows there also, and is one of the most valuable forage plants. In these isolated places, oases, as it were, many thousand sheep and cattle pas- ture, high up in the mountains, and far above the settled locali- ties. They are removed thence on the failure of feed or the approach of cold weather. Bunch grass is a main dependence of the nomadic cattle men, and is, indeed, of inestimable value. The cultivated grasses are numerous. Timothy, otherwise called herd’s-grass, is the principal va- riety, and is the staple for hay production. It grows extremely well. 20 OREGON AS IT IS. Red and white clover are esteemed of great worth, and their culture is practiced to considerable extent. Three, and even five tons of cured clover hay, the product of a single acre, in one year, are not uncommon yields. FRUIT. Oregon excels as a fruit country. No finer fruit, of the kinds raised here, is produced in any quarter of the globe. Fruit trees will grow from six to eight feet the first year ; bear fruit the second, third and fourth years, according to variety. They thrive in the valleys, as well as on the foot-hills, and up to a considerable height in the mountains, but especially in dry, sheltered soil. Yearling prune, peach and plum trees, eight feet high, and yearling cherry trees seven feet high, have been ex- hibited. Apple trees commence bearing very young, sometimes produc- ing fine fruit the second year after grafting ; and, if properly cultivated, are always in bearing when four or five years old. The fruit is large, highly colored and of the most delicious flavor. It is free from the ap- ple worm and the bitter rot, and keeps remarkably well, many varieties lasting through the whole year. Pears also grow in great perfection. The trees begin to bear when remarkably young, and are exceedingly healthy and vigorous, and being entirely free from diseases, will live to a great age. The trees are very productive and the fruit highly flavored. Pears have been grown weighing over three pounds. Oregon is the very Eden for cherries, plums and pruns. The trees are perfectly healthy, grow vigorously and bear much earlier than in the States east of the Rocky Mountains ; and for size, beauty and excellence of flavor, the fruit is unsurpassed in any part of the globe. The plum and prune are en- tirely free from the attack of the curculio. Plums and prunes, especially the latter, are found to be so profitable for drying, that orchards are be- ing planted for that purpose. Not less than two hundred thousand trees have been planted within twenty or thirty miles of Portland, in the last three or four years. Trees of all varieties of apple, pear, plum, prune, cherry, etc., known in the best catalogues, can be obtained in the nurser- ies near Portland, at reasonable prices. Strawberries, currants, rasp- berries and gooseberries, of a fine quality, are raised in abundance. Sev- eral of the hardier varieties of grapes are successfully cultivated. The summer nights are too cool for the successful cultivation of peaches. OTHER FEATURES. Perhaps wheat will always be the chief staple production of Oregon, but not the only one. Meadow and pasture can be adapted to the farm in such a manner as to yield a fair revenue, and answer another purpose that our people too often lose sight of — to sustain and even improve the fertility of the soil. There is no need that the soil should become worn out when stock raising of all kinds, and sheep husbandry, can be made OREGON AS IT IS. 21 reliable sources of profit. The farmer who keeps a few choice mares and cows, and breeds judiciously, can make them pay well. Here, though land is valuable, sheep can be used to some extent as scavengers, also to sustain the fertility, and their wool and increase will make rapid and satisfactory returns. Poultry can be made to pay well, for we have a good market for eggs and fowls. This is already done, but could be better done than it is, and made a regular business. Dairying pays well when well carried on, and can be made a paying branch of every farm if carefully and scientifically conducted. Another branch of farm income, that is seldom encouraged as it de- serves, is growing and curing pork. Eastern readers will be incredulous when they are told that most of the towns in Oregon are to-day supplied, more or less, with bacon, hams and lard brought from St. Louis, Chi- cago, Kansas City or Omaha. Such is the case, however. All the fall and winter meat packers have paid eight cents per pound for good hogs. There is not a single thing in the conditions of our climate, or our pro- ductions, except that we have no corn as a general staple, to enforce this import of pork. We have the proper feed out of which to make good pork; and we do make some, but not enough. The man who wishes to engage in stock raising on the wide ranges can invest money in that, as much or little as he chooses; can buy out some man in busi- ness, or go into it on his own account. He can locate, if he chooses, a land claim where he can do farming and keep stock also. It will be seen from this that the man who wishes to engage in the stock business can find in this portion of the world any opportunity he can reasonably expect. The hop grower can do as well here, and probably better, than in any old-settled hop growing district. If there is a good market for hops he can certainly grow the hops if he understands how. The market gardener can locate near some growing town — Portland, for instance — and can soon work up a good business. GAME. It would be difficult to find a finer field for the sportsman than Ore- gon. In all the valleys of the State, deer, pheasant, grouse, quail, snipe — the last four of unusual size— abound. Iu the fall, wild geese and ducks swarm along all of the water courses. Wild swan are very numer- ous on the lakes and rivers of southeastern Oregon. In the sage dis- tricts of the latter region, the sage-hen makes its home. The Cascade and Coast ranges and the minor chains are frequented by elk, deer and antelope in great numbers, as also by yellow and silver foxes, mink and marten. Black, cinnamon and grizzly bear, wildcat, wolf and the cougar, roam in these mountains. Of the larger game, however, only deer visit the uninhabited portions of the State. 22 OKEGON AS IT IS. i OMPAR ATIVE TA X ATIOA. In speaking of this matter of taxation, we make a comparison witli California. To show it best we give the following table: Taxation. State. County. Toum, City, Etc. Total. Oregon $ 177,653 $ 362,753 $ 40,550 $ 580,956 California 2.540,383 5,068,041 208,691 7,817,115 Average each person, Oregon, $6.40; California, $11. It the matter of public indebtedness the average per capita in Oregon is $2.40, while in California it is $32. who ssioi «ii> com:. General advice can be given only to the classes of immigrants. The application of this advice to special cases must be the business of each individual himself. The same qualities are necessary to success here as elsewhere. Any other notion will lead to disappointment. No one should think of emigrating without sufficient means for self-support for a few months at least, after reaching the objective point, for suitable employment immediately after arrival can not always be relied on, and there is nothing more discouraging to the new-comer than to become a subject of public or private charity. This caution applies particularly to heads of families, who would be cruelly derelect in their duty to ex- pose those depending on them to the risk of destitution on arrival. Families who contemplate settling on lands will require, after providing for all traveling expenses, from $300 to $500, with which to meet the cost of putting up a house, for live-stock, seed, farming implements, provisions, etc. Good health is the first requisite of a person who proposes to emi- grate to a new country, with a view to improving his condition in life. Although the climate of Oregon is so favorable as to insure exemption from many diseases which prevail in other States, and to promise relief in other ailments, the chances are that immigration will prove a mistake in the case of confirmed invalids who are compelled to work for a living. Generally speaking, persons accustomed to ordinary and mechanical labor, and who unite frugal habits with persevering industry, will run the least risk in emigrating ; but individuals unwilling to work, or ac- customed to live by their wits, are not wanted. Idlers will only go from bad to worse, and adventurers will not prosper. It requires health, la- bor, courage and persistence to succeed here, as elsewhere, and emi- grants must expect to endure the privations of life in a new r country, holding before them the certainty of future comfort and prosperity. Capitalists could not make a mistake by investing their money here in the purchase of timber, mineral or agricultural lands, and by establish- ing manufactories for the production of all goods made of wool, iron or OREGON AS IT IS. 23 wood. Such opportunities for making great wealth do not exist else- where. In this region money don’t grow on trees, and most honest peo- ple get it only by the sweat of the brow, still there is enough filthy lucre in these parts to supply a moderate amount of it to every industrious, energetic person who is rightly anxious to work without being too par- ticular as to the kind of work. We can not, at present, encourage the immigration of more than a very few professional men — such as lawyers, doctors, surveyors and civil engineers — unless they have money beyond the expected earnings of their profession, and are prepared to take their chances after arrival. Clerks, shopmen, or those having no particular trade or calling, and men not accustomed to work with their hands, if without means of their own, would probably meet with disappointment and, perhaps, hardship. Tutors, governesses, housekeepers, needlewomen, and women generally above the grade of domestic servants should not come alone to this State at present, and they should not come at all, unless to join friends or relatives able to maintain them for some time after arrival. A good woman servant might soon make money, there being a good demand for such labor. For men there is an open field with no favor. For women an open field full of favors. The urgent requirements of the State at the present time are men and money — the laborer, the mechanic, the real farmer, dairyman, fruit- grower or stockraiser, and the large and small capitalist. Every man who is able and willing to work with his hands can find some employ- ment at fair wages, especially those who are fitted for farm work. Rail- roads, public works, mines, mills, logging camps, fisheries and farms all require labor. Any smart, active, capable man, with only a little money, but accus- tomed to work with his hands, is sure to succeed in making a comfortable home in Oregon. Wages are good; land, food and house materials are still relatively cheap. If such a settler has a strong heart himself, and is blessed with a common-sense wife used to country work, he may con- fidently look forward to becoming even rich. He need not long remain in the condition of a laborer. This certainty'of rising in the social scale must stimulate the immigrant. To farmers’ sons, or persons with moderate means, qualified for the life of a settler in this country, who can not see openings in older coun- tries — who can not go up, because the passages are blocked; who can not go down, because their habits and pride forbid- -the varied resources of the country would seem to promise success, if they avoid whiskey and are industrious and patient. Farmers themselves, with limited capital, who are uneasy about their own future, and that of their children, and are prepared to emigrate, should consider the advantages which Oregon affords, irrespective of 24 OREGON AS IT IS. the climate, which must be attractive to alb They should have at least sufficient capital to be independent for twelve months. It is often best for the father to go out and pave the way for the little folks. The monied man, who looks to the actual growth of industries in the State and the new permanent markets aud industries which the trans- continental railroads create, and who considers the varied natural resources of the country, can not fail to find investments that will promise good returns on capital. 01 > 1 > IMMIGRANT RATES. The following are third class rates from prominent eastern cities to Portland, Oregon, via the Northern Pacific : From New York $70 50 Pittsburg, Pa 64 00 Baltimore, Md 68 50 Cincinnati, Ohio .... 60 00 Columbus, Ohio.... 61 50 Chicago, 111 53 50 Nashville, Tenn 57 00 St. Paul or Minneap- olis 45 00 From New Orleans ,.. $64 00 Buffalo 64 50 Philadelphia 69 00 Washington, D. C. . . 68 50 Cleveland, Ohio 61 50 Detroit, Mich 59 50 St. Louis, Mo 53 50 Indianapolis 60 00 Kansas City 45 00 The following are emigrant rates to Portland, via the Union Pacific Bail way and Orego > Short Line : From Chicago and St. Louis $52 50 New York 69 50 Denver, Col 45 00 Pittsburg, Pa 63 00 Wheeling, W. Ya 63 00 Omaha, Council Bluffs, St. Joseph and Ft. Leavenworth . . 45 00 From Portland the new-comer can go to any part of Western or Southern Oregon, by the Oregon and California Railway. The road through the valley takes the immigrant from Portland to Ashland, a distance of 341 miles, and gives him a splendid panoramic view of this portion of the State. He passes through the midst of one of the finest farming regions in the world. The same company operate a line of railway between Portland and Corvallis, on the west side of the Willamette River. The Immigration Board, through an arrangement with the Oregon and California Railway, issues special immigrant tickets to all points on the east and west side roads. OREGON AS IT IS. 25 The reduction obtained by the immigrant is nearly 50 per cent. The following are the reduced rates to the points named : EAST SI1)E. Oregon City. . Single Trip. $ 15 Round Trip. $ 90 Drain Single Trip. $ 4 85 Round Trip. $ 9 70 Salem 1 60 3 20 Oakland 5 45 10 90 Albany 2 40 4 80 Roseburg 5 95 11 90 Lebanon 2 70 5 40 Grant’s Pass. . . 8 90 17 80 Harrisburg 3 15 6 30 Medford 9 85 19 70 Eugene City . . . 3 70 7 40 Ashland 10 25 20 50 Hillsboro 65 WEST 1 30 SIDE. McMinnville . . 1 50 3 00 Forest Grove . . 75 1 50 Independence. . 2 30 4 60 Yamhill 1 20 2 40 Corvallis 2 90 5 80 Trains leave Portland morning and evening. WESTERN OREGON STAOE U.\ES. Stages run daily from Salem to Dallas, Independence and Monmouth, in Polk County; also to Silverton, in Marion County. A tri-weekly stage goes from Turner, in Marion County, to Aumsville, Stayton, Sublimity and Mehama. A daily stage runs from Marion, in Marion County, to Scio, iu Linn County. A daily stage line connects Corvallis with Albany; also stages run reg- ularly from Corvallis to Philomath. A stage line is' in operation from Roseburg to Coos Bay and Scottsburg. A regular stage line goes from Ashland, in Jackson County, across the Cascade Mountains to Linkville, in Klamath County, and Lakeview, in Lake County. Daily stages connect with the terminal points of the railroads con structing, south from Oregon and north from California, so that through travel is now made in two days or less. Daily stages leave Portland for Vancouver at 9:80 a. m. and 8:30 p. m. ; Vancouver for Portland at at 7:30 a, m. and 12:30 p. m. Daily stages leave East Portland at 8 a. m. for Mt. Tabor, Powell’s Valley, Rockford, Pleasant Home, Sandy, Eagle Creek, George and Zion. Stages leave Oregon City Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 9 a. m* for Molalla, Mulino, and Wilhoit Springs. 26 OREGON AS IT IS. <* I JEST IOWS ANSWERED. Writing to the Board of Immigration, inquirers desire to have infor- mation in detailed form. Below are given usual questions and replies : Hotel rates in the towns of the interior average $1 per day for tran- sient customers. This includes all accommodations and attention. Board and lodging by the week, about $5 at the hotels; about $4.50 at private houses. House rents in these interior towns are quite uniform. , Good five-room houses, with some yard attached, can be had for from $6 to $8 per month. Farm hands command about $25 per month, by the year’s hire; harvest hands, $1.75 to $2.50 yjer day; house servants, about $20 per month. For mechanics, the average is probably $3 per day. Milch cows are worth about $30 each. Horses average $200 a span. Emigrants are recommended not to linger about the towns and cities at which they may arrive, but to proceed, with as little delay as possible, either to their friends, if they have any in the State, or to the localities where they are likely to meet with employment. The immigration agent at Portland will furnish information as to lands open for settlement in the respective counites, farms for sale, de- mand for labor, rates of wages, routes of travel, distances, expense of conveyance. A large, free way of life prevails in all the countries of the “Pacific Slope,” or Northwest America, owing to their climate, circumstances and history. ^ Men produce much; they consume much, and they spend much. This free way is attractive, but the young immigrant, -in particular, will do well to bear in mind that thrift , here as elsewhere, is at the root of success. What is your climate ? — The best. Is your State well watered with running streams? — Yes. Is there plenty of timber? — Plenty of it in the mountains and foothills. On what terms can farms be rented, cash? — About $1.75 per acre for cultivated soil. What grain rent?-— One-third of crop. Have you free schools? — Yes. Amount per capita of public money?— $2.25 and $3. What do teachers get? — Males, $35 to $80; females, $30 to $60. What minerals have you? — Gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, tin, zinc, cinnabar. What is your staple product? — Wheat. Hired help? — Male, $18 to $30 per month; female, $2.50 to $3.50 per week. Interest on money? — Ten per cent. What is value of cultivated land?— Farms, not above $20 per acre; uncultivated, $4 to $8. Average yield of wheat? — About 18; oats, 27. Average price of wheat? — 75 cents; oats, 30 cents. What is the cost of plowing? — $2 an acre; rolling, 30 cents; harrowing, 30 cents; seeding, 1% bushels to acre; cost of trans- portation to market, $2 per ton for wheat, oats, barley, etc.; tax on culti- vated land, from 15 to 30 mills. Do you summer fallow? — Yes. Average depth of plowing? — Six inches. Do you subsoil? — Not generally. Un- OREGON AS IT IS. 27 avoidable losses on account of weather? — Very slight. Amount of hay per acre? — Clover, five tons; timothy, three tons; cost of cutting, 50 cents per acre. Cost of dairy stock? — Common, $25 to $40. Cost of shearing sheep? — Seven cents per head. Does sheep industry pay? — Yes. What herds most profitable for wool? — Merino and Leicester. For mutton? — Southdowns. Average weight of fleece?— Three pounds. Price of wool? Average, 15 cents. Method of wintering? — Mostly grass. i POPULATION. The present population of Oregon is doubtless in the neighborhood of 250,000. The vote of the State in November was 52,656. The usual estimate of five persons to a voter may be considered as about correct, and therefore the population of the State on January 1, 1885, may be considered as 263,280. This will allow for two months’ growth since the election. By counties the population is as follows: County. Vote 1884. Population. Baker 1,792 8,960 Benton 2,067 10,335 Clackamas 2,495 12,475 Clatsop 1,550 7,750 Columbia 762 3,810 Coos 1,445 7,225 Crook 641 3,205 Curry 335 1,675 Douglas 2,375 11,875 Grant 1,334 * 6,670 Jackson 2,275 11,375 Josephine 549 2,745 Klamath 332 1,660 Lake 387 1,635 Lane 2,556 12,780 Linn 3,167 15,835 Marion 3,910 19,550 Multnomah 9,020 49,100 Polk 1,568 7,840 ' Tillamook 377 1,885 Umatilla 3,923 19,615 Union 2,536 12,680 Wasco 3,042 15,210 Washington 1,847 9,235 Yamhill ' 2,266 11,330 Total 52,656 267,280 Portland is the chief city in the State, and has a population of about 40,000 people. It is the commercial metropolis of the Pacific Northwest. The following table shows the number of business houses and corpora- tions of the several classes in Portland. It includes such branch houses as have actual establishments, and are engaged in active business here, 28 OREGON AS IT IS. excluding those which are merely represented by agents having an office. Incorporated banks are not included, but private banking houses are. Such corporations only are mentioned as make Portland their bona fide headquarters and the central point for the expenditure of their capitai. Capital. No. $40,000 to $75,000 45 75,000 “ 125,000 29 125.000 “ 200,000 15 200.000 “ 300,000 6 300,009 “ 500.000 7 500.000 “ 750,000 1 750.000 “ 1,000,000 4 1,000,000 and upward 14 COMMERCIAL. The capital above represented aggregates considerably upwards of $30,000,000, exclusive of the assets of the largest of our corporations. During the year 1884, the v. iue of domestic imports by rail and water, amounted to $18,686,129. Tin foreign imports $1,013,866. Value of do- mestic exports for the same time, were $6,284,735. Value of foreign exports, $5,648,116 ; receipts of wheat at Portland, 3,027,061 centals, and of flour, 403,463 barrels. Wheat and flour exported of the value of $5,- 599,819. Exports of wool, 8,942,517 pounds, valued at $1,403,758. Ex- ports of hops, 3,578,074 pounds, valued at $524,117. A grain fleet of eighty-six vessels, registering 92,272 tons, carrying 143,532 short tons wheat and flour, and 245,323 cases salmon. The wholesale trade of the city for 1884, foots up to $40,650,000. The largest valley receipts of wheat are from Linn, Marion, Yamhill and Lane counties. Washington, Benton, Clackamas and Polk also furnish wheat. Douglas has sent in some little. Columbia, Clatsop and Tillamook send none to this market. Receipts from the eastern section are from both Oregon and Washing- ton, the later furnishing the larger portion of receipts. Wasco is not much of a grain producing county, Umatilla raises a considerable quantity, and is a good producing county. In Washington, Klickitat County consumes the bulk of production at home. Walla Walla, Co- lumbia and Whitman furnish the larger part of Washington's wheat. Flour is ground mostly at Salem, Albany, Turner’s and Oregon City, in the valley, but almost every town has one or more mills that seek a mar- ket for part of their product here. The Oregon City mills have been idle since last summer. The Portland mill, at Albina, started up early in December. Flour classed as standard brand is ground by one mill at Albany ; two mills at Salem, one at Turner’s, one at Albina and those at Oregon City. The mill at Milwaukie is in operation this season. In the eastern section the largest grinding is done by mills at Walla Walla, Prescott, Echo, Spokane Falls and Dayton. Up to October oats were received only from the valley and from Clarke County, W. T., with oc- OREGON AS IT IS. 29 casionally some from Puget Sound section. Union County, Oregon, is now sending large shipments and, with Baker, promise to send freely in the future, although home values have been but half a cent this season. Barley comes from all sections, no one county furnishing much, but Wasco and Umatilla are increasing their outturn. Millstuff is furnished by all mills that send flour. A few potatoes come from Wasco county. Hay is almost entirely a valley product. Wool comes from all parts, the eastern section last cal- endar year furnishing 8,758,000 pounds against 1,520,000 pounds from the Willamette Valley. Wasco, Umatilla, Union, Baker and Grant are the largest producers, but Washington Territory counties have always sent some. In the valley this product is general, the finest grades com- ing from the Umpqua Valley, in Lane and Douglas counties. Jackson sent more the past year, and the receipts also include a little from the extreme north of California. All the southern counties contain sheep. There is a woolen mill at Ashland, one at Oregon City and one at Brownsville. Hides come from all parts of Oregon and Washington. The eastern section sent very little fruit the past year, needing all for home use and eastern shipment. Flaxseed is mostly from parts along the Snake River in Eastern Oregon and Idaho. Less is being raised compared with three to eight years ago, as it must be marketed in San Francisco at small margin of profit. Hops are raised in Lane county mostly, although counties this side furnish more or less. Valley receipts include arrivals from Puget Sound, which constitute by far the most important portion. From the eastern sections receipts are almost entirely from Yakima county. Lime receipts are from Puget Sound, the San Juan Islands furnishing nearly all received. In addition to the articles named we receive all sorts of farm products. Very little corn has ever been raised, except in Southern Oregon; but recent experiments in the eastern section show that it can be grown there. We receive all sorts of fruits that can be raised in this climate, grapes mostly coming from Southern Oregon. The orchards of Oregon have been largely permitted to care for themselves in late years, but there is a new movement to improve them. The crop of apples, pears, plums and prunes has been heavy, selling at prices that are fair. In the character of its public buildings, business blocks, residences, churches, newspapers, school buildings, streets, railways, railway offices docks, manufacturing establishments, and the like, Portland compares favorably with any city in the common country. The growth of the city has been steady, and each year confidence in the future is indicated by the investment of a large amount of capital in business buildings and costly residences. There is tributary to Portland an area of country as great, and pros- pectively as valuable, as that of the great State of Pennsylvania. It will 30 OREGON AS IT IS. always command the trade of this vast domain. The Willamette valley alone is capable, when fully settled, of supporting a large city. It repre- sents a body of the finest agricultural land in the country — supplied with abundant water power-equal in length to a line drawn from Washington to Philadelphia, by an average width equal to the distance between Washington and Baltimore. If one will reflect for a moment upon the wealth of such a body of land in our Eastern States, a picture will be presented of what the future lias in store for us. In addition, we command the trade of the fertile valleys of the Umpqua and Hogue rivers in Western Oregon, the seaboard counties, and the country lying along the lower Columbia and its tributaries. The Eastern Oregon stock regions are also beginning to furnish a trade that must grow steadily in extent and value, while the remarkable success that has attended the cultivation of lands throughout the “Inland Empire,” which were formerly thought to be desert and unproductive, argues well for the future of a great wheat, Hour and stock-raising country. Portland, then, bids fair to remain in perpetuity the supply point for nearly the entire State of Oregon, for a large part of Washington and for portions of Idaho and Northern California. By reason of accumulated capital and well-planned lines of transportation, we are also in a posi- tion to bid for our share of the trade of Montana, Idaho, Northern Washington, British Columbia an*d Alaska. Our commerce with China, Japan and the Sandwich Islands will sooner or later assume large pro- portions and build up our shipping interests. The mineral deposits of the mountain regions which separate the various bodies of agricultural land, within the territory above described, are destined to become a source of wealth. Among the larger towns and cities in the valley, we have Salem, the Capital of the State, about fifty miles from Portland, having a popula- tion of about 7,500 people ; Albany, seventy-nine miles from Portland, is a beautiful city of 3,000 inhabitants ; Eugene City with about 2,400 people, is one of the thrifty, enterprising cities of the valley. In south- ern Oregon, we have Roseburg, seat of Douglas County, 1,300 people ; Jacksonville, seat of Jackson County, 1,200 people ; Ashland in the same county, with about 1,400 people ; Grant’s Pass, Medford, Oakland and other places. On the West side of the river we have Hillsboro with about 1,300 people ; Dallas, Polk County, with a population of 1,000 per- sons ; McMinnville with about 1,200 people ; Corvallis, a bright, thrify city of about 2,000 inhabitants, and a number of other, and smaller towns. In the Eastern section of the State we have The Dalles, with a popula- tion of about 3,500 ; Baker City, 1,800 ; Pendleton, 2,500 ; Union, 1,000. At the mouth of the Columbia we have Astoria, aptly called the Ven- ice of America ; a city of some 8,000 people, enterprising, energetic, and the seaport town of the State. OREGON AS IT IS. 31 THE TOURIST ■> OKI>GO\. It is sometimes asked, what have you to offer the tourist and pleasure seeking traveler in Oregon? Much. Indeed, Oregon has more than r r ! are of pleasant and picturesque summer resorts; places where the • n or the traveler in pursuit of pleasure and recreation will sojourn ne season and part with reluctantly. Along a Pacific Ocean ..st line of nearly 800 miles, and within easy and inexpensive traveling distance, of the central portions of the State, we have a score or two of k.cse summer resorts, where there is an inspiration in the air, and where comforts and conveniences of all kinds may be found, at ordinary rates of living. What with variety of pastoral scenery; extent of our forests; noblene ss of rivers, grandeur of snow-shrouded mountain peaks and verdure-clothed hills; richness of color; a flora that is rich beyond com- parison; a fauna that is strange and interesting, and a climate which for serenity and evenness has no equal in America, and all within reach of the tourist, there is enough to captivate his fancy, and to lure the inva- lid, artist or scientist from chamber, studio or laboratory. It is no wild exaggeration or fancy to say, that so far as the scenery of this domain is concerned, it is one of the grandest portions of the globe. Nature has showered her blessings of this kind with a lavish hand. Oregon Trees. Doubtless intending settlers will be interested in knowing something of the trees growing in this State. Among the most valuable we have the spruce, rising to a height of 200 feet, and often 200 inches in diam- eter. Then the sugar pine, also very large. The silver pine, common pine, black pine, larch, thick-barked cedar, redwood, hemlock, white fir, common cedar, vine maple, wild cherry, choke cherry, seamberry or squawberry, crab-apple, large-leaved maple, chittimwood or bearberry, live oak, myrtle, white oak, black oak, birch, alder, willow, balm, yew, juniper, elder, black haw, service berry, laurel, madrone, Oregon ash and manzanita. SIJMMARIZmi,}. The intending immigrant, whether he comes from the overcrowded districts of our States, or from the old country, has only to study through these pages to ascertain just what this state has to offer him. What he reads is accurate and wholly trustworthy in every particular; and is easily substantiated by facts here on the ground. If he comes here to farm in a general way, to raise stock, to mine, to establish new industries, he will find just the surroundings and inducements he has in view. Our lands with their productiveness will reward him as a farmer. Ev- erything in the way of soil and climate, market and transportation will meet his views. Here is a broad open field of occupation for those who toil for a competency. If he is a tradesman and has a little capital, here 32 OREGON AS IT IS. is a wide field for him to choose from. If he seeks Government, or rail- way, or State lands, now is the time to come and make his selection. Each season the limits of such lands are narrowing, and localities near towns and railways settling up. With a State offering the potent in- ducements of an equable climate, an unmatched soil, splendid timber land, the best of water in natural streams and in wells, the highest grade of educational institutions, a dominant church interest, conven- ient markets, the permanent population of this part of Oregon, com- posed as it is of the best material, will most cordially welcome that in immigration which will add to the moral, social and financial status, to the force that, is to develop the limitless resources of this vast domain. Immigration that will be materially felt in this direction will be most welcome. There is neither welcome nor room in Oregon for wit-living representatives or the man whose lack of perseverence and energy ren- ders him dissatisfied with even the best natural locations, and whose motto is “Further on,” That sort of a “poor man” is of no practical value. He need not apply. It might be well to add here that just now the inducements for professional men, mechanics or laboring men, un- less they come supplied with money to create for themselves opportuni- ties for employment, are not such as will warrant their coming. During the last two years there has been a steady increase in the number of these classes, and they have fully occupied the field, for the present at least. For* the capitalist or the farmer there is room and a cordial wel- come. OREGON BY COUNTIES. Western Oregon Comprises that part of the State bounded on the North by the Colum- bia River, on the South by the Calapooia spur which unites the Coast and Cascade ranges, East, by the Cascade range, and West by the Paci- fic ocean. This area contains about 5,000,000 acres. Not only do the physical features and characteristics of Western Oregon make it to the eye of the tourist an attractive country, but no section of America affords a better proportion of timber, water, meadow, up-land and plain lands for the use of mixed husbandry. Certainly no where else on the conti- nent has nature more lavishly combined the elements of beauty and utility, and left so little for man to complete in order to realize his ideal of an earthly abiding place. In all portions of Western Oregon the set- tler find’s a gently rolling surface, with a soil of exhaustless fertility, and quite all of the conditions he would ha\e chosen in creating a home. That any one should search further can only be ascribed to that sense- less and unappeasable rage of going somewhere else. At Portland, which is at once the gateway or vestibule into this grand section of country, the immigrant enters upon a stretch of territory em- bracing, perhaps, the largest body of continuous rich land on the conti- OREGON AH IT IS. 33 nent. As we have said, he will find it rich in- all that pertains to agri- cultural resources, in its cultivated and uncultivated lands, and no mat- ter at what day or week or season of the year he comes upon it. there will be no uncomforable suspicion that it is a little too near the north or the south pole, and he will never, under any circumstances, have to become an apologist for the weather, nor burdened with any responsibility for its unseasonable peculiarities. 9 MULTNOMAH County, of which Portland is the seat, has no very extensive area of farming land, though all, at all susceptible of cultivation, is exceedingly rich soil ; the best grades of bottom land, suitable for gardening and dairy purposes. Most of the land in Multnomah County is heavily tim- bered, Along the Columbia River there are some very fine farms and farming lands, and perhaps no land in the State is more profitably worked. Much of this land is in the market, and the immigrant with means may very happily locate himself. In the hill lands south and west of the city there are some excellent lands for small farming, chicken ranches and the like. The city furnishes a continuously good market for everything produced. WASHINGTON COUNTY. Adjoins Multnomah on the West, and at one time both were known as Washington, Multnomah having been created out of Washington. It is, like the rest of the valley counties, an agricultural section, and has some of the finest farms in the State, which are stocked with thoroughbred horses and cattle. Washington County is not as extensive as some of the other valley counties, but fully as productive. Like most of the valley counties it has been of late years almost wholly devoted to wheat growing. These matters have changed somewhat recently, and a more diversified system of farming has supplanted the old way of doing things. In the course of a few years Washington County will furnish Portland markets with a large share of fruit, and dairy products. The principal town in the county is Hillsboro, the county seat, while Cornelius and Forest Grove, all within a distance of six miles, are busy places, Cornelius is one of the best wheat-shipping points on the Oregon Central railroad, while Forest Grove receives much of its support from the excellent school at that place, under charge of the Congregational denomination. It is one of the oldest institutions of learning in our State, and has many of its graduates scattered over the northwest. There are other towns of minor importance in the county. Tualatin, Beaverton, Middleton, Gas- ton, Greenville, and Glencoe — all good business points. The towns are all supported from the agricultural resources of the county, as there are no manufacturing enterprises of note in operation. In Washington County there are many cultivated farms offered for sale, in whole or in part, and some considerable land open for settlement. 34 OREGON AS IT IS. CLACKAMAS COUNTY. This county joins Multnomah on the south, and has an area of about 1500 square miles. It is one of the oldest settled counties in the State. About three-quarters of the 1,054,000 acres in Clackamas county may be classed as agricultural land of the best grade. There is about 325,00* acres of this county that has passed into private hands. There is about 50.000 acres of this amount that is owned by the Oregon and California Railroad Company. There is probably about 22,000 acres of school lands in this county now owned by the State of Oregon. This would make the amount of land that has already passed from the control oi the General Government into the hands of the State and private indi- viduals 340,000 acres. This last amount deducted from the number of acres of land in Clack amas county would leave in jbhe hands of the General Government aboiv 700.000 acres, of which amount there is at least 350,000 acres that ii well adapted to settlement, and, when once put in cultivation, will b< fully equal to many of the oldei settled places of the county. The las named amount of land is subject to homestead and pre-emption settle ment. The aggregate valuation of all property in this county, for the yea 1884, real and personal, is about S3, 000, 000. The State tax for said yea was five and a half mills on the dollar; county tax, ten mills on the do! lar ; public school tax, three mills on the dollar. On almost every quar ter section of land living water of pure, limpid quality is found, Some portions there are heavily timbered, yet there are large tract where the timber is not thick or dense. The land may properl; be called hilly, some portions quite broken. The timber most commo: is fir, of the several varieties (red, white and yellow). Along the stream cedar, ash and maple abound. In the mountain spruce, hemlock an larch are found. As will be seen from the above list, the prevailing foi est trees are resinous and evergreen, some of which grow to the lieigli of 300 or 400 feet, and from 8 to 12 feet in diameter. Oregon City, the county seat, situated at the falls of the Willamett River, is healthful and has a water-power unsurpassed in the know world. A view of these falls may be seen on page 2 of this book. Iron ore is found on both banks of the Willamette River between Or< gon City and Portland, also in various other parts of the county in pra< ticallv unlimited quantity. Limestone and coal are also found along the foothills uf the Cascad Mountains. The limestone is of a fair quality. While the Willamette and Clackamas swarm with salmon, the brool and creeks are full of the smaller fish, of which the most desirabl as well as the most abundant, is the far-famed speckled trout. OREGON AS IT IS. 35 MARION COUNTY Is on the east side of the Willamette River, and south of Clackamas. It is the first in the list of agricultural counties. It is bounded on the north by the Willamette River and Butte Creek, which separates it from Clackamas County; on the east by Clackamas County and the Cas- cade Mountains, which separate it from Wasco County; on the north by the Santiam River and the North Fork of the Santiam, separating it from Linn County; and on the west by the Willamette River. Rich in its agricultural resources, in its cultivated and uncultivated lands, in its water powers and minerals; rich in its colleges and schools of learning, and a climate unsurpassed for its salubrity, it presents to the immigrant from the overcrowded States, who comes to the Coast with some means, superior advantages. The productiveness of the soil is marvelous to those who are accustomed to the small crops of the East. With good cultivation, forty bushels of wheat to the acre can be readily secured. A large percentage of that grown is white wheat, and the berry is large and plump, often weighing sixty-four pounds to the measured bushel. Fruits of all kinds that grow in the temperate zones are at home here. There are two main divisions, the mountain and the valley. The latter extends from the Willamette River to the foot of the Cascade Mountains, a distance of about fifteen miles. The mountainous portion contains some fourteen townships.of mostly unsurveyed land, lying in a strip twelve miles north and south by forty miles east and west, and comprises all classes of land, from rich narrow valleys in the passes, up through all the grades of rolling, hilly and broken, to that of rock-bound canyons and inaccessable craggy peaks. It is generally heavily timbered, and in the near future will be valuable for its lumber supplies. Beyond the bottom the land rises in some places gradually, in others abruptly some fifty feet, and extends for a distance of fifteen miles to the south in a level plain. There is generally a skirting of timber land on the edge of the plain, from one to two miles in width; then it opens out into a low level prairie. The entire county is splendidly watered. As a stock county, Marion is good. Horses, cattle, sheep and swine are almost free from disease, and the mildness of the climate and pro- ductiveness of the soil renders their raising a matter of comparatively little expense. Land in Marion County can be purchased at prices varying from $4.50 to $30 per acre. The cheap lands, however, are in the foothill portions of the county, and requires considerable labor to bring into profitable cultivation. The valley lands can be purchased for $10 per acre up- wards. An immigrant with means can find land to suit him in the county at not unreasonable figures. The tax levy for the current year is fourteen mills, being lower than any other county in the State. OREGON AS IT IS. 36 The Willamette River, with two lines of railroad running the entire length of the county from north to south, gives the producer and mer- chant ample facilities to reach Portland markets. Salem, the Capital of the State, is in this county, and is the most handsomely laid out town in the State. The private and public build- ings reflect great credit upon its citizens, and give evidence of the confi- dence which the people have in the future of the place. The trade of the county is divided with the various towns, the princi- pal one being Gervias, which has grown up since 1870. Silverton, on the Narrow Gauge Railroad, has long been one of the principal business points in the county outside of Salem, and since the construction of the railroad it has improved very rapidly. We have also Jefferson, Marion Turner, Brooks, Woodburn, Aurora and Hubbard, on the Oregon and California Railroad. Aurora was originally settled by a German colony, and has become one of the most active and business-like points in the county. We. also have, on the Willamette River, St. Louis, St. Paul, Champoeg, Fairfield, Butteville and Wilsonville, while Stayton is on the Narrow Gauge Railroad. The water-power of Salem is the best in the State. Salem homes are, as a general thing, well spread out, the lots being usually 62^x125 feet large, giving them attractive lawns and fertile garden spots. To those who desire a most healthful and pleasant climate, with fine lands at prices as above, Marion county offers them superior inducements ; or if they seek a locality for fruit growing, for stock raising, for a dairy busi- ness for lumbering or flouring mills, or for any other branch of industry or manufacturing, this county offers extraordinary advantages. YAMHILL COUNTY. The land of this county, and the inducements to immigrants, are among the best in the State. It lies south of Washington, and between the Coast Range and the Willamette River. It is an agricultural county. It is one of the most thickly settled counties in the State, and to-day has within its boundaries more of the early pioneers than any other. It is connected with Portland by river and railroad facilities, and has better transportation facilities to market, as a whole, than any conn y in e State The Yamhill River and Willamette are both at its command, while it has the Oregon Central and narrow gauge running through dif- ferent parts of the rich agricultural section. ,, .... , The surface of Yamhill is, in the main, gently rolling, the hil , their very summits, producing magnificent crops of wheat, ' which^ fo excellence of quality, is not surpassed anywhere in the world. Yamhil has more pasture land than Washington, and much more stock ; but latter is not of such high grade. Wheat and stock raising are the chie. industries. As a people, the residents of Yamhill are unusually pros perous. In no other county is the average of wealth so gi eat. Ihe OREGON AS IT IS. 37 are in Yamliill at least fifty farmhouses with all the modern conveniences, and, in fact, all the luxuries of city homes. Houses costing $5000 and upwards are common throughout the county, and well built and filled barns attest the general thrift. Schools are maintained in every district. There is some land open for settlement in this county, and the new- comer will have no difficulty in getting improved land at what he is likely to consider extremely reasonable rates. Lafayette is the county seat, which is located on the banks of the Yamhill, about fifteen miles from the Willamette, and the narrow gauge railroad runs through the town, and is but two miles from the Oregon Central Railroad. McMinnville is the principal town in the county, located on the Yam- hill River, and also on the Oregon Central Railroad. It is a beautiful little town, surrounded, like Lafayette, with the finest of agricultural lands. The McMinnville College, an old and very excellent establish- ment, is located here and has a large number of students, whose pres- ence gives the town a very pleasant social activity. Dayton is a river point, and the terminus on the Yamhill River of the narrow gauge railroad, which runs through the southern part of Yam- - hill county and the northern part of Polk. It differs not from any other points in its vicinity, being the seat of a steady local trade. 1 • Amity and the various other points are thrifty local centers-. - 1 ' ; • > ' ' , h r < til ’< rrij i > * <-» * ! t i i 1 -'!i' • TjINN county. This county joins Marion on the sohtli. Although not one of the largest in the State, is, in fact, the seventh in size. It is BOO square miles larger than the State of Delaware. It is twice as large as Rhode Island, and more than half as large as Massachusetts. Agriculturally Speak- ing, it is one of the finest counties iii the State. It is bounded oh the north by the Santiam River, which separates it from Marion county ; on r )•; . ? I Hr/ ml* the east by the Central ridge of the Cascade Mountains, which abound , in inexhaustible forests of the finest fir, pine, spruce, hemlock and cedar, and contains untold wealth in the form of mines of lead, cinnabar, silver and gold.' ; on the south by Lane county, and on the west by the Willam- ette River, wliicfi is navigable from Portland to Albany, the county seat » j/u if fcttfw I U- Hi?ii . J ba ■ ■ a of the county, the whole year round. The eastern portion of the county includes the western slope of the Cascade Mountains, which gently descend into > a very fertile range of foothills, well adapted to agriculture, fruit growing and stock raising. The farms among these foothills generally yield from twenty-five to forty and fifty bushels to the acre of the finest wheat in the world. The occupation of the people in this region is chiefly farming, stock raising, , , , • mi i n . . C rt , . ” ■ and lumbering. The many streams flowing m from the mountains, and the rich forests of timber standing on their banks, make it almost possi- . 1 1 i . , • • , ■ . iMi od of ble to erect and successfully operate a sawmill on nearly every section of land. 38 OREGON AS IT IS. Most of the prairie land in Linn county, and, in fact, all the land in the neighborhood of the railroad, is in the hands of individuals who ask high prices— from $15 to $80 per acre; but there are fine locations in the foothills which may be takeu up at the cheap State and Government rate under the land laws or bought from the railroad company. The lands in question are of four classes -government, railroad, state and unb versity — and they may be obtained cheaply and on easy terms. It is finely watered by many streams all through it. The county being in close proximity to two mountain ranges, its climate is mild and delightful both in winter or summer. On any of the land in this county are produced in great abundance apples, plums, prunes, strawberries, cherries, blackberries, pears, and in places peaches and grapes are produced in immense quantities. The strip of foothills varies from ten to fifteen miles in width and in extent the entire distance across the country from north to south. Run- ning along parallel, and in close proximity to this range of hills, is a line of railroad called the Oregonian Railway (limited). It is a narrow- gauge, and affords ample means for travel and trans ortation. This strip of country is very healthy, and such things as chills and fevers are rarely if ever known there. The remaining portion of the county, lying west of the foothill coun- try and bounded on the west by the Willamette river, is mostly prairie land. The population of the county is about 16,000. Any man of small or large means can locate in Linn county to good advantage, and be surrounded by a good class of people, have the best of schools, all social and church privileges. Albany, a city of 3,000 people, is a busy city. Brownsville, Lebanon, Halsey and Harrisburg are thriving towns, each with its share of local business. The Brownsville Woolen Mill is one of the best manufacturing establishments in the state. LANE COUNTY Lies south of and adjoins Linn County. From the ocean to the Cascade range across this county it is 120 miles. The county embraces 120 town- ships, two-thirds of which land is susceptible of the highest cultivation. It is a rich county, and one of the best in the State. Its industries are confined to farming and stock-raising. The agricultural lands are un- surpassed in their fertility, while the rolling hills are luxuriant pastures for the many cattle and sheep. A considerable portion of the county is rough and mountainous, but even its highest points are available for pasturage, which is green and good the whole year through. Hops and wheat are the chief products of the county. Wool, too, is grown, but not in such quantity as would naturally be expected in a country so well adapted for sheep. The opportunities for enterprise in this line are fine. Good sheep ranches may be bought cheap, and the outside ranges to be had for nothing, is as wide as could be desired. f OREGON AS IT IS. 39 An important and rich section of ‘ Lane county lies along the coast. The Siuslaw River, a fine stream, puts into the ocean at the western ex- treme of the county, and along its valleys there are large tracts of ex- cellent. land. About fifty families have settled there within the past five years, and the section is certain, in a short time, to become well popula- ted. The Siuslaw river is easily entered by schooners. Lane County offers a field for more varied industry than any other of the western Oregon counties. The grain farmer, the stock-raiser, the wool-grower, the hop-grower, the lumberman, the dairyman and a score of others find the conditions of their various occupations at hand ; while the comparative cheapness of land, its fine character and a climate some- what more genial than that of the northern counties, are potent induce- mental. The county is gradually receiving an excellent class of new- comers, and as a consequence, business of every kind is prosperous. Eugene City the county seat, is located about the center of the county, and was founded by that old and much respected pioneer, Eugene F. Skinner, who first settled on the place in 1845, and died there in 1865. The town is surrounded by hills on each side, the grandest and most beau- tiful being Spencer Butte, which stands about six miles southwest of the town. It is a healthy place, most beautifully located, and has prospered in the past and kept pace with the advancement of the State. It has the constant attractions of cheerful and beautiful scenery, and of location near the river ; and during the summer months it enjoys the wholesome “ ventilation” of the ocean breeze. Its streets are regularly laid out, and are better shaded than those of any other city in the State, The State University is the chief distinction of Eugene and a great feature in its social life. From it the place tales a high moral and intellectual tone^ and this is an advantage it will always enjoy.” The population of Eu- gene City is about 1,600, and its business is that of a thrifty country center. BENTON COUNTY. This county is sixty miles wide and forty long, extending east and west from the Willamette River to the Pacific Ocean. It contains 1110 square miles of area, and has a population of about 9000. Its eastern third is level alternate prairie and light black land, and the remainder is tim- bered hill land, admirably adapted for pasture. The level land of Ben- ton is almost exactly like the level lands of the other westside counties. It is well watered and timbered, rich in soil — in short, a farmer’s para- dise. It is thickly settled, and has been for many years, and its princi- pal product is wheat. Stock, vegetables, fruit, etc., are grown here as in Yamhill and Polk, but not as an independent and special crop. The western or coast section of Benton is a fine stock country, but it is scarcely occupied at all. The hills, originally covered with dense forests, have been burned over, and are now comparatively open. The debris of 40 OREGON AS IT IS. the burned trees rests and has enriched the soil to a highly productive state, and peculiarly adapted it for the various “ tame ” grasses. The hills are seamed with creek and river bottoms, which yield hay, or, in fact, anything planted, in great abundance. The climate is a softened, open climate, and the extremes of heat and cold are not known. Snows are rare, and never lie on the ground more than two days together. Ben- ton has a fair share of coast country, and a natural harbor at Yaquina Bay. Its western part, particularly the Yaquina country, is rapidly fill- ing up with immigrants. The price of land varies from SI. 25 per acre (Government price) to $30, according to locality; but good farms, well improved, can be bought at $10, $12, $15 and $20 per acre. The number of farms in the county is about 1000: the value of the improved land over $180,000; the value of the farms and improvements, including buildings and fences, $3,300,- 900; the value of all farm productions for the year last past, about $850,000. The leading industries of the county are farming and stock raising. The yield of wheat generally is about twenty-five bushels to the acre, that of oats about forty. The surplus of wheat shipped from the county last year was about 300,000 bushels. Corvallis is the county seat, a bright, thrifty city of about 2000 people. It is pleasantly situated on the west bank of the Willamette River, on a beautiful plateau, one and a half miles wide, entirely above high water. For beautiful location, healthfulness, even temperature of climate and pure water, it is not equaled in the State. It is the head of navigation on the Willamette River, except at a very high stage of water. It is the present terminus of the Oregon and California Railroad, western division, being ninety- seven miles from Portland. It is also the present terminal point of the road running from Yaquina Bay to the east. Educational facilities are very good. The State Agricultural College^ with a full complement of efficient teachers, is situated at this place, and in addition there are two district schools that are well sustained. The town is well supplied with chu r s, and the morals of the community are good. Philomath is a thriving place seven miles west of Corvallis, on the line of the Oregon Pacific Railroad, situated in a beautiful and healthy location, and surrounded by intelligent, wealthy farmers, who feel proud of Philomath College, an institution of learning in their midst, under the contrc^l of the United Brethren Church. Newport is also a thriving place, situated near the seacoast, in the most westerly portion of Benton County, on the Yaquina Bay, POLK county Lies south of Yamhill county, and, like it, is located between the Willa- mette River and the Coast Range. It has an area of about thirty town- ships, equally divided between level and rolling land. It is admirably & OREGON AS IT IS. 41 watered and timbered. The Luckiamute River, a tributary of the Willa- mette, is navigable for small steamers, and there are many other streams besides, which would supply an almost unlimited water power to saw and flouring mills. The West Side Division of the Oregon and California Rail- road traverses the county. Not far from half the county is timber land, ash, maple, fir, spruce and hemlock being the chief varieties, although there is a great deal of white oak as well. Its eastern half is occupied by fine farms, is among the best developed sections in the State. Polk is a farming county, and its industries are all incidental to the business of farming. There is some stock raising, but it is carried on as part of a general business. Almost every farmer has a few head of cattle and horses and sheep. Much attention is paid to blood, one of the finest bands of sheep in the State being on the hill range south and west of Dallas. The eastern or hilly section of Polk is covered with fine hard wood and fir trees, which, with the growing de- mand for lumber, must soon become valuable. The hilly land also affords fine range, and is specially adapted for sheep and pasturage. There is not a distinctive fruit farm in Polk County, or, in fact, but one in all the west side counties. Each farmer has from one to five acres of orchard, which receives but little care. Apples, pears, and small fruits grow well, however, and now that railroads have made it possible to market fruit in the fresh state, more attention Avill be paid to fruit culture. The products of the county are wheat, potatoes, oa^s, hops, cattle, hogs, wool and flour. Apples, pears, plums, cherries, and all sorts of berries yield bounteously. There is still much good land to be had at prices for unimproved varying from $4.50 to $10 per acre. Dallas, the county seat, is about fifteen miles west of the Willamette River at Salem, and is a sprightly inland town of 1000 or more inhabitants. Its busi- ness is that of a large farming center, the various branches of merchan- dise being represented by general and graded stores. It has several very substantial brick buildings and a number of really very handsome residences. Good churches and schools maintain a high educational and moral standard. Independence is on the Willamette River, and is a rival of Dallas for the honors and advantages of the county seat. Its location on the line of the Oregon and California Railroad and on the river gives it special advantage as a shipping point, and attracts to it a great share of the grain of the country. Independence handles at least one-third of the wheat grown in Polk County, and is the center of a large trade. It has improved more in the last five years than any other town in Western Oregon, this improvement being due to advantage of location and to the enterprise of its business men, who leave no effort untried which promises welfare to their town. Monmouth is considera- bly smaller than either Dallas or Independence, and is a quiet “ school 42 OREGON AS IT IS. town.’* It enjoys, however, a steady business from farmers near at hand. Christian College is located here, and attracts attendance from all parts of the State. CLATSOP COUNTY Is the northwestern county of the State. The best farms in Clatsop county are located on Clatsop Plains, though the nature of the soil is not favorable to the production of the cereals, other thau wheat. Clatsop county is twenty miles long and has an average width of thirty miles. Its soil is a light loam and sand, easily cultivated and highly productive. Its climate is the ordinary climate of Western Oregon in Winter, with a constant moisture in Summer, which keeps its pastures always green. Everywhere it is well watered, and timber in abundance borders the eastern margin. The chief industry of Clatsop Plains is that of butter and cheese manufacture. In no locality in the world are the conditions for dairying more fortunate than here. An unfailing verdure, a cool and equable climate, rich native grasses, abundance of pure, fresh water, nearness to market, all the conditions are here in perfection and all made, highly valuable by constant demand and high prices for dairy products. Along the tide lands and creek bottoms, mentioned above, there are large settlements, and all are prosperous. The conditions of life in these localities are not luxurious, but they are by no means hard for those who have industry. Travel everywhere is by water, and settlers go by steamboats, or in their own boats, propelled by sail or oar. Com- munication with the market town of Astoria is cheap and easy, and the residents think them^plves better oh than those who must get to market by road or rail. The products of the country are the general agricul- tural products of Western Oregon. In no county in the State is there such variety of employment for the wage-worker. It is estimated that a million and a half dollars is paid out annually for labor in fishing and logging. It is a commctfi thing for immigrants to settle upon Govern- ment land, which may be had for the taking, and to work in the fisheries in Summer, or the logging camps in Winter, the while making such im- provements on their settlements as they can. To clear a place in the timber is the work of half a life-time, but it may be done by degrees at a comparatively light cost. For dairying — and in this branch we be- lieve the opportunities are more inviting than in any other— it is not necessary to clear the land. If it be burned over thoroughly, and grass seed sown in the ashes, it yields fine green crops, Avhich cattle easily harvest for themselves. Being near the coast, snows are infrequent, and never lie longer than a few hours. The mountain lands of Clatsop county (and three-fourths of the county is mountainous), are chiefly valuable for their splendid forests. Astoria is at the mouth of the Columbia, and the central figure in the salmon fishing feature of the Northwest. It has a most healthful climate, aud 43 OREGON AS IT IS. is sometimes called (and appropriately enough; the Venice of America. It is the favorite Summer resort of the people of Western Oregon. It is always in possession of a delightful sea-breeze, and the hills in the vicin- ity are covered almost from base to dome with architectural groupings of earlier days and more modern progress. The more even portion of the city is adorned with comfortable and well constructed homes, that bespeak comfort, culture and refined taste of their owners and occu- pants. The future holds out bright promises for our city by the sea. Crafts of every description ply the broad Columbia, being the only means of transportation from and to the surrounding districts of Oregon and Washington Territory. Nature has done more for the Venice of the Northwest than any other point on the river, and it is only a question of time when manufacturing industries will take advantage of this splendid location. TILLAMOOK COUNTY Is a narrow strip along the south boundary of Clatsop County. It is about seventy-five miles long by thirty wide. It is one of the isolated counties of Oregon and is rather sparcely settled. A schooner freight line has been put into service between the markets of Portland and Astoria, and the trip is now easily and quickly made, and rates for freight and passage are low. The country is finely adapted to general farming, stock raising and dairying, and the land is literally “dirt cheap.” Two bays easily ap- proached from the ocean afford ample port facilities, and numerous small rivers and inlets make transportation cheap and easy. We do not believe that any section of Oregon offers better advantages to the settler of small means than Tillamook County. The country is new, and little has been done in the way of school house and church building, but the soil is rich and cheap, and the market is not very difficult. The timber of Tillamook County will be a source of great wealth when it shall be made use of, and that can not be long delayed. . COLUMBIA COUNTY. This county hugs the Columbia River, which is its western boundary. It is a mountainous region in its eastern half. But there is a very large domain along the river, embracing some of the richest lands in the State. For fifty miles north from the foot of Sauvie’s Island, along the river, the country is wooded, but not wholly with the dense forest growth seen in passing up and down on the boats, and which seems to extend inland indefinitely. Each of the many creeks which find their way into the Columbia drains a wide area of bottom land, generally overgrown with ash or maple, and the higher lands, which no where rise into mountainous dignity, are fertile and easily susceptible of cultiva- tion. These lands are not attractive to general immigrants from prairie districts, but they exactly meet the taste of comers from timbered coun- 44 * OREGON AS IT IS. tries. It costs more to get a farm under way there than in a prairie dis- trict; but there are many who deem the special expense more than com- pensated by the advantages of location in ; timbered region and near water transportation to market. The lands in this river district ought to be public, but they have been gobbled by speculators till nearly every foot is owned. The greater part of it is for sale at about double the Government price, or $4 per acre. They yield fruit and vegetables in abundance, and are finely adapted for dairying. Aside from farming and stock raising and the general tradeswork nec- essary in every community, the chief industry is logging. The heaviest logs are easily floated down the creeks in the wet season, and nearly every farmer is, to a greater or less extent, a logger also. Millions of feet of timber are floated out each year, and the proceeds of its sale are largely applied to the development of the country. The logging indus- try, while it cuts down the timber, helps clear the land, leaving it availa- able for the all-the-year-round pasture even before the stumps and small growths are removed. Logging progresses at all seasons and affords steady employment to all who choose to work at it for wages. Many settlers put in such time as they can there in opening their farms, and earn their maintenance in the logging camp. Another industry which engages men of small capital and rewards them fairly, is that of making shingles. There are, too, a few portable saw-mills which with the labor of three or four men can cut three or four thousand feet of cedar per day. The resources of this section in iron, coal, and water power, are sufficiently well known, and in the course of time things will, without doubt, be developed. Columbia County possesses advantages fully equal to those of any county in the State, either for the capitalist or the man of small means. As a dairy and market garden country it can not be excelled, and its proximity to Portland, coupled with cheap and ade- quate freight facilities, particularly adapt it for these purposes. St. Helen, Ranier, Wertport and Columbia City are the chief tgwns. DOUGLAS COUNTY Lies in the extreme southern portion of what we denominate Western Oregon. No region is more pleasantly situated, and no soil in the State is better adapted to diversified farming. The soil is prolific, of a deep, rich vegetable loam, and produces a fairly wonderful growth of grains, fruits and vegetables. The mineral wealth of the hill portions of Doug- las County probably equals if it does not exceed that of any other county in the State. This and the neighboring county of Jackson produce great crops of corn. A large portion of the vast territory embraced within this county remains unsettled and unsurveyed, and nearlv all of it will be valuable, either for timber, agriculture or grazing. East of Roseburg is a vast section of country undeveloped, and we might add, unexplored, as but little is known of it. The Smith River country, lying OREGON AS IT IS. 45 north and west of Drain station, is, perhaps, the best part of the unset- tled portion of the county. The river heads in the mountains, some fif- teen miles due north of the town of Drain, and flows nearly due west and empties into the bay or inlet at the mouth of the Umpqua, two miles be- low the town of Scottsburg. The east fork, some five or six miles above its junction, flows through a beautiful level plain; from one-half to two miles wide on either side of the stream, with small fir timber near its banks, showing that the country has once been a burn. The land close to the banks of the stream is higher than back near the hills, where nu- merous prairies of swamp grass, with scarce any timber, abound, some of them containing from fifty to fine hundred acres in a place, which, to make them first-class farming lands, need nothing but a drain to the river. From the forks down to tide water, a distance of eighteen or twenty miles, the bottoms on each side are similar, save that the growth of timber is larger. Considerable logging has been done on the lower part of the stream. The foot-hills, or bench land next to the bottoms, are covered for nearly the entire length of the river with a heavy growth of large fir timber of the best quality. The drifts have been cleared out so that saw logs can be floated the entire length of the stream. There are numerous small streams flowing from the mountains on either side of the river, with bottoms in many places sufficiently wide to make good farms. Within the last year a number of persons have settled on the east fork of this river, and are about to commence building a wagon road from Drain across the mountains to their settlement, which will, in time, be extended down the river to tide water. The Umpqua Biver runs its whole length through Douglas County, and in its valleys are found the best farming lands of the county. The general charactar of Douglas County is rolling, and it affords for sheep the finest range in the world. Not even the famous highlands of Scot- land are better adapted for the production of fine and firm wools. The climate is somewhat dryer and warmer than that of the northern coun- ties, and all the conditions of range are favorable. So marked is the su- periority of the Umpqua Valley wool that it has always been a favorite in the market, and brings from two to six cents per pound more than the ordinary wools of the country. The flocks of the Umpqua Valley forma large feature of its wealth, but the free public range would easily sup- port ten sheep for every one now upon it. Nearly every farmer keeps a flock, principally of Merino stock, and in the lower Umpqua the animals are held only for their wool, and not used for mutton. In 1880, Douglas County shipped 1,000,000 pounds of wool and drove 55,000 sheep into Nevada. Fruits of all the temperate kinds grow well in the Umpqua Valley, as elsewhere in Western Oregon. There are some fine patches of timber in all parts of the county, and along the coast there are magnificent for- ests of fir and spruce. OREGON AS IT IS. 46 The chief town of Douglas County is Roseburg, which is near its cen- ter and on the line of the O. & C. R. R. For some years Roseburg was the southern terminus of the road, but it was extended last year and with its terminal character, Roseburg lost much of its Southern Oregon trade. A railroad to connect Roseburg with the coast part of Coos Bay, is projected, and this will certainly add largely to its importance. The population of Roseburg is about 1300 ; Oakland, Drain’s, Empire City, Scottsburg and Gardiner are thrifty towns in this county. southern Coos, Curry, Josephine, Jackson and Lake Counties form Southern Oregon. There are three distinct sections of country and climate in Southern Oregon, and the whole is distinct in a marked degree from the other natural divisions of the State. The climate of Southern Oregon is warmer in winter and cooler in summer than either Western or East- ern Oregon, and is especially adapted to perfection in fruits and vegeta- bles. It is between the extreme drouth of California and the wet season of Western Oregon. Taken as a whole, Southern Oregon is one of the • healthiest places on the globe. The land of Southern Oregon lying on the coast is rough and mountainous, and for the most part heavily tim- bered, and has the moist climate of coast lines. The middle section is rich valley land, and the climate is warmer and less moist. JACKSON COUNTY Is one of the largest in the State, and can hardly be excelled for fine scenery, productions of soil, wealth and good climate. The county is rich in minerals, and heretofore, with the exception of wool, the products of the county have mainly been consumed by the miners and local popu- lation. Its area is over 2000 square miles, but the greater part of its sur- face is mountainous. Its principal productive section is the Rogue River Valley, which is fifty miles long, with an average width of fifteen miles. Agriculture is well in progress in this valley and in various other smaller valleys in the county, but as there has never been any means of trans- portation, it has been limited to supplying the local demand. But this is greater than in any other part of the country, owing to the extensive local mining operations. Nearly 4000 men are now employed at mining- in this county, and the output of the precious metals has been satisfac- tory and comparatively large. The output has aggregated about $180,- 000 annually. While this output is growing larger each season, other industries are reaching to the fore, and mining will fall several ranks and general farming, including fruit growing, which, as stated above, is still in its infancy, are now more important interests than mining, and stock raising will soon be equal to either. The rough foothill land£ of Jackson county afford fine range, and the stock interest is constantly OREGON AS IT IS. 47 growing. With commendable enterprise, the people have imported good blood in both horses and cattle, and some of the finest stock in the State is to be found here. Fruit most distinguishes this county. Peaches, grapes and the whole list of general and small fruits yield in the highest excellence of size and flavor. Hitherto little attention has been paid to fruit production be- cause there has been no way of getting it to market, but the Oregon and California Railroad, which has just reached the valley, opens up the Portland and, in fact, the Eastern market, and now business will be pursued on a large scale. The population of Jackson County is not .the usual population of a mining country. Mining is here followed as a legitimate business, fairly certain and only moderate in its rewards. There is no “rich to-day, poor to-morrow’ 1 class, and nothing of the reckless spirit so common in min- ing countries. The people are a reliant class, accustomed to helping themselves, and they are well-to-do almost to a man. Owing to the situation of the county, as well as to the sparse popula- tion in proportion to the area of the county, lands are not as high in proportion in Jackson county as in the Willamette Valley. Good im- proved farms can be bought at from $10 to $20 per acre, the last n^rned figure being for the very best places, specially well improved. Jackson- ville, a prosperous town of 1200 inhabitants, is the chief business point of the county. Ashland, with 1400 population, is not far behind, the notable features of the latter town being a collegiate school and a woolen mill. The population of the county is not far from 15,000. coos COUNTY Is not so great in extent as some of the other counties, but it is an ex- ceedingly rich one in the matter of timber. On the Coos River there is good agricultural land, and the area might be indefinitely enlarged if the tidal marshes were diked. The coal interest is quite important. The yield is large, and turns in a fine revenue to the county, maintaining a line of steamers between Coos Bay and San Francisco. At the present time farming in the county is in its infancy, as not many who engage in this business are willing to clear the land of the heavy timber, and to reclaim the tide lands is quite expensive ; still, those who have made farming a business for several years, and who have now pleasant country homes, find a ready sale for the products which are raised, and at good prices. However, the time is not far distant when all the lowlands and flats will become one vast grain field, and very large crops of hay and grain can be raised when properly cultivated. All about the Coquille River region there is an underlayer of coal. Half a dozen mines are-being worked at this time. Five or six large merchant sawmills produce many millions of feet of lumber each year, which, too, goes chiefly to the San Francisco market. 48 OREGON AS IT IS. To all practical purposes Coos Bay is part of California. Its business and social relations are wholly with San Francisco, and worse still, its industries, which employ several millions of capital, are made and di- rected in San Francisco, and their profits, with their products, go out of the State. Besides its extensive forests of fir and spruce, Coos county has a rare and valuable timber, the myrtle, which needs only to become known to be in great demand. It is a fact well known that Oregon produces a greater variety and much finer woods than California. The Port Orford cedar is of the same general character, but in every practical respect a better timber than the redwood. Its color is better for panel and other fine work, and its grain is more distinct. We have a dozen or a score of other fine woods, but the best and most plentiful of all is the myrtle, which grows along the streams of the southern coast. The beauty of this wood is beyond com- parison. It is nearly as dark as black walnut, mottled with mahogany- colored streaks, is hard and susceptible of a perfect polish, and retains its toughness when sawed into the thinnest veneering. Coos Bay has already established a reputation as the principal ship- yard in Oregon ; in fact, it may be said to be the only point in the State at which the construction of vessels has assumed the form of a regular business. Over fifty vessels, of all classes, have been constructed here. The fact is so apparent that it is now generally admitted that the timber in this region, for ship-building purposes, combines, in a greater degree, the qualities, strength, durability and buoyancy than the timber of any other locality known. JOSEPHINE COUNTY Was cut out] of Jackson County during the mining excitement some years ago. Mining is the chief business of the county, though there is some fine farming land in the small valleys. The lumber interest bids fair to be the chief one in a few years. In Josephine fruits and vegeta- bles, and especially melons, attain a wonderful degree of perfection. The county is settling up very rapidly just now. CUBBY COUNTY Is in the southwest corner of the State, and more isolated than any other portion of the State. It has a population of about 2300, most of the people being engaged in stock raising. Its area is mainly mountain- ous and very little of it has been surveyed. The people support them- selves by sheep-raising, dairying, lumbering, fishing and placer mining. The arable land under cultivation produces sufficiently for home con- sumption. Ellensburg, a thrifty town, is the chief business center of the county. OREGON AS IT tS. 49 LAKE COUNTY, As its name implies, is a region of lakes, many of them considerable in size. The soil is generally light, composed of volcanic ashes. The county is about 150 miles square, and is sparsely populated. Its chief and, indeed, about its only interest, is stock, raising. Its ranges are wide and fertile, and its isolation makes the land useless for puposes of agriculture. So little attention is giving to farming that a great share of the Hour consumed in Lake is imported from the adjoining county of Jackson. Although a high and frosty county, it has many fine valleys and excellent land. Lakeview, on Goose Lake, the county seat, is a thriving town, with two newspapers. Sprague River Yalley, quite pic- turesquely situated, contains 20,000 acres of excellent land, the soil being a sandy loam. Linkville, on Klamath Lake, is a good trading center. Stock raising is the most prominent business of the county. Only within a recent period have the buncli-grass and sage-brush lands, which here abound, been cultivated, but the result of what was simply an experi- ment was so encouraging that a broad acreage of cereals will soon be produced. EASTERN OREGON. This comprises at least two-thirds of the State, and embraces the counties of Wasco, Crook, Umatilla, Grant, Union, Baker, Morrow and Gilliam. Here we have a change of climate and soil from that of either Southern or Western Oregon. As we have said, the thermometer rises higher in Summer, and goes lower in Winter than in Western Oregon. The rainfall is less by one-half. There is scarcely any rain between June and September, and the harvest times are perfect. The heat in Summer, though greater than in Western or Southern Oregon, is nevef oppressive, and the Winters are short, snow seldom falling before Christmas, and does not lie in the valley more than a week or so ; in the hills from four to six weeks. Spring begins in February and lasts till May. This is the rainy season. Eastern Oregon is famous for its wheat crops and stock raising. This region is now reached from the East direct by the Union Pacific and Oregon Short Line, the Northern Pacific, and connections with the Oregon Railway and Navigation Com- pany. The latter company make daily connections with Portland. Eastern Oregon and Washington consist of high table lands and roll- ing prairies, with a number of valleys along its water courses, of consid- erable extent. Taken as a whole, it is especially adapted to grazing purposes, although its valleys contain farming lands equal in productive- ness to those of any country ; and in many places the high prairies have produced excellent crops of grain. What is known as the Great Plain of the Columbia, the soil of the highlands is a sandy loam, producing, 50 OREGON AS IT IS. in its natural state, a heavy growth of wild bunch-grass of the most nu- tritious quality. With the exception of some barren spots, the growth of bunch-grass is general. The valleys of Eastern Oregon and Washington have a rich soil of black loam, producing wheat, oats, barley, corn, vegetables and fruits. Wheat succeeds equally as well as in Western Oregon, while barley does much better, often yielding as high as sixty to eighty bushels per acre. Corn makes a good crop in many of the valleys, the warm, dry Summer weather of this reginn being adapted to its growth and maturity. It has been generally supposed, heretofore, that corn would not ripen in our State. It has always been grown in small patches for table use, but during the last season the experiment was tried on a large scale at Blalock Farm, situated near the northeastern corner of Wasco county. The land selected has every appearance of a sandy desert, but whenever and wherever water is obtainable its fertility is great. Two pieces of ground were planted, being in all 1800 acres. The season was unusually dry, and on 800 acres of land the corn did not germinate. On the other 1000 acres the corn sprouted, and was worked with the harrow alone. It attained a height of about five feet, with four to seven stalks in a hill. The yield was very heavy. The ears are long and well filled with good, sound corn. This same land will be replanted with corn during the coming season, and it is expected that with rain much better results will be obtained. The crop above referred to was nourished by the moisture contained in the soil alone, not a drop of rain having fallen upon it from the time it was planted until it was gathered. Some of the tender fruits and vegetables, as peaches, grapes, melons, tomatoes and sweet potatoes, are being cultivated with good success. Tobacco has succeeded well in several instances. In a general sense, the range of farm products varies very little from that of Western Ore- gon, making due allowance for the adaptabilities of a dry climate. Irri- gation is resorted to occasionally, for the better production of garden vegetables and fruits; but thus far it has not been found necessary in the cultivation of any kind of grain crops. The absence of timber in the valleys is considered a disadvantage by some ; this, however, is more apparent than otherwise, from the fact that the neighboring mountains afford an inexhaustible supply. Water of good quality is plentiful in all the valleys, but the number of springs and running brooks is much less than in the western division. BAKER COUNTY Is about 200 miles long and 100 miles wide. It has a population of 8000 people. There are more than 11,000,000 acres of land in this county. About one-third of it has been surveyed. The climate, except in the southern portion, is cold in winter and warm in summer. Since the land has been broken and cultivated summer showers are getting more 51 OREGON AS IT* IS. frequent, thus insuring a good crop without irrigation. The cereals grow to perfection in Powder River Valley, also all kinds of vegetables in abundance. There is, perhaps, no county in Oregon in which pota- toes, onions, cabbage, parsnips, turnips, carrots, beets, strawberries, gooseberries and currants grow in such profusion, or of better quality, than in any portion of this county. In the Snake and Burnt River Val- leys all kinds of fruit and corn grow to perfection. Powder River Valley is twenty-six miles long by an average of sixteen miles wide. As yet but a small portion is settled or in cultivation. The sage-brush land when cleared is the best soil. In addition are immense buncli-grass and sage-brush tracts, which will eventually be brought under the plow, only requiring irrigation in many places to make them productive. At present the unoccupied lands are used as grazing grounds. There are about 80,000 head of cattle herded in the county. Much attention is paid to horse-breeding, and the animals bred here are among the best produced in the State. The value of live stock is estimated at $1,500,000, and the farm productions last year amounted to $280,000. Among the products are butter, cheese, wool, barley, corn, oats, rye, wheat, potatoes, apples and peaches. The mines, instead of being worked out, seem to be only partially developed. Quartz ledges that have lain idle and scarcely represented are now being worked with success. The great drawback heretofore in the development of the mineral resources of the county has been the want of capital and the immense cost of mining machinery, but that obstacle has been removed by the completion of the railroad and the millions of dollars in the rocks will now be taken out and large profit will be had to the operator. During the past year the population of the county has increased at least forty per cent, and the influence of this increase is manifest in the rapid and substantial growth of the center of supplies Baker City. Carpenters, brick and stone masons, and, in fact, mechanics of all kinds, have been kept busy, while real estate has advanced more than 100 per cent. Several large brick buildings have been erected during the sum- mer just past, and quite a number are under contract for next season. There is no county in Oregon where an industrious man, with a small capital, can do better than in Baker County. There is a great deal of vacant land to be had, and unimproved agricultural land can be had for from $6 to $10 an acre. Baker City, a thriving town of 1800 inhabitants, is the county seat. Heretofore everything brought into or taken out of the county was freighted in “prairie schooners,” but the railroad is now completed to the city and beyond via the Oregon Short Line. GRANT COUNTY. This is state-like in dimensions. Grant is a mining and stock raising county, and its population of 6000 is mostly engaged in these industries. 52 OREGON AS IT IS. Some farming is done in the valleys, where the soil is exceedingly rich. It is capable of producing good wheat, vegetables, and in fact anything that any other section in Eastern Oregon can produce, but, like Baker County, it is too far from market to raise wheat for exporting. There are some very wealthy cattle dealers in this county, and miners are doing well when they have a favorable season. The valleys of the John Day river, although generally narrow, are fer- tile, and in a good state of cultivation, and produce large crops of the cereals, vegetables and fruits common to the latitude. Corn, however, does not thrive, owing to the cool nights. Improved farms are generally held at $20 per acre. There are thousands of acres or government land in the county, subject to pre-emption and homestead entry. There is not, however, with the exception of Harney valley, any large area of level land ; but there are hundreds of small valleys where the indus- trious settler may raise the produce needed by his family, as well as hay, to carry his stock through an occasional hard Winter. Grant county is not a farming county, but it is a stock county, and one of the best now to be found within the limits of the United States. With the stock divided among many small holders, instead of being concentrated within a few hands, as is too often the case, the county will support a large population. People familiar only with the prairies of Illinois or Iowa are not usually impressed with the appearance of this county ; but those acquainted with bunch-grass and its possibilities are loud in its praise. The climate of the county is not easy to describe in a few words. The Summer days are usually quite warm, but the nights are always cool. But little rain falls during the Summer months, and crops ate usually irrigated. The Winters are greatly modified by warm southwest winds from the Pacific, called “ Chinooks.” ***** The county is well watered by mountain streams ; while many springs of mineral water are famous for their medicinal qualities. There are also most excellent facilities for manufacturing, but little utilized at present. Viewed from the sportsman’s standpoint, the country is simply a paradise. The growth of the trees is such as to give the appearance of a vast park, and there is but little underbrush. Deer in great numbers roam the woods ; antelope bound over the plains of the Harney basin ; elk range the higher mountains, while the sheep leap from rock to rock on the highest peaks. Bears, panthers, wildcats, etc., are occasionally encountered. The streams are well stocked with mountain trout of delicious flavor. The chief towns of this couuty are Canyon City, the county seat, Prairie City and John Day, all situated in the John Day valley. All are prosperous towns. Schools equal to any found in a new and sparsely settled county are maintained and well attended. OREGON AS IT IS. 53 UMATILLA COUNTY. In Umatilla county we enter upon the greatest agricultural region of Eastern Oregon, a region made famous for its magnificent wheat and grain crops. Population about 14,000; area, 4,170,040 acres; surveyed, 2,000,000; settled, 1,656,200 acres. Wheat and barley are the principal grain crops, although oats, corn, buckwheat, flax, etc., do well. Average yield per acre, 20 to 40 bushels, according to the amount of rainfall. Water soft. No need of irrigation. The climate is much milder than that of the same latitude east of the Rocky Mountains. Snow very rarely lays on the ground outside of the mountains, over four days. The soil is exceedingly fertile and easy to cultivate. All kinds of fruit not strictly tropical grow plentifully. Garden vegetables unsurpassed. Health remarkably good. The Blue Mountains afford plenty of pine, fir and tamarack timber. Wages are from SI to SB per day. On grain and stock farms hands receive from S25 to S50 per month. Business oppor- tunities good for all branches of trade. Professional opportunities are rather scarce. There is some good government land still open to settle- ment. Muscle and capital are needed to make developments. Of minerals there are gold, silver and coal in the county. Game is abund- ant — such as elk, deer, antelope, ibe, bear, cougar, panther, wolves, geese, ducks, etc. Fish are principally salmon and mountain trout. The people are hospitable, and are mostly from the Eastern States. A great many ambitious young men are doing well here. They -came and settled here without money or friends a few years ago, and now they have both. The principal product, wheat, is worth this year 70 cents a bushel. All along the foot of the Blue Mountains is a stretch of fine arable country, from 25 to 30 miles in width. The county is well watered, and there are enormous tracts of sage-brush lands, hitherto used as stock ranges, which must soon be settled and turned into grain fields and orchards. Among these may be mentioned the Gold Spring country, extending along the Columbia river a considerable distance, and iu width about fifteen miles. This section is attracting considerable attention in view of its deep, rich soil and mild climate, which admits of the cultivation of tobacco, sorghum, corn, tomatoes and the finer fruits, with little fear of frost. Among the principal places in the county are Pendleton, the county seat, Pilot Rock, Umatilla, Milton, Heppner and Centerville. Timber for building and fencing is supplied by the Blue Mountains, and at Milton it is cheaply brought by a flume a distance of many miles. Pendleton is situated forty -four miles from the Columbia River, on the Umatilla, a rapid mountain stream. On the north and east it is bounded by the Umatilla Reservation, the finest body of land in the State, which will soon be open to settlement under act of Congress. The tract of land contains 800,000 acres. On the south and west lies the great wheat and stock raising country of Umatilla County. Pendleton has a flatter- 54 OREGON AS IT IS. mg future. Its progress is second to no town in Oregon, having in- creased from 700 population in 1880 to 2500 in 1884. Its business has increased in proportion. WASCO COUNTY Contains about one hundred townships, or 2,304,000 acres. Of this land, it is considered by our best judges that there is something more than half of it which has a soil suited to mixed farming, most of it without irrigation. It is also estimated that there are not over ten townships, all told, that are not of great value a portion of the year for pasturage. This, with immense timber resources on the Cascade range of mount- ains, extending across the western boundary of the county, from the Columbia southward, and the timber border upon the Blue Mountain range, on its southeastern boundary, makes it one of the most desirable bodies of land in the Northwest, especially as the Columbia River runs entirely across the northern boundary. The everlasting snows of Mt. Hood furnish a constant, never-failing volume of water in DesChutes and its tributaries, which runs northerly across the entire westerly portion of the county, and^, pour their clear, cool waters into the Columbia at Fultonville, fifteen miles easterly from The Dalles. The westerly and northwesterly watershed of the Blue Mountain range sends its surplus waters through the John Day River and its many branches into the Columbia, twenty miles above the mouth of the DesChutes. Thus the territory of the county, which is about sixty miles square, has the Columbia waters on the north, and is divided into three parts by the DesChutes and John Day waters from the south. Ihe soil between these rivers and along the whole length of their sides up to the timber on the mountain slopes, is of unsurpassed richness, and suitable for vegetable growth and the production of grain, requiring only man’s instrumentality in working and exposing its top by the plow and letting in the sun and air to prepare it for his uses. From the earliest settlement of the country until recently that region has been devoted almost exclusively to stock raising. As the population increased the ranges were occupied and it became necessary to sell off the cattle. Very naturally the attention of the people was directed to agriculture, which formerly had been carried on only to the extent of supplying local consumptive demands. There was serious question as to the capacity of the country for general farming — not with reference to the richness of the soil, for that was unquestioned, but it was feared that the long seasons of dry weather would be fatal to general crops. The experiment, however, has been tried, and the result is highly satis- factory. Crops last year were fair, and this year more than fair. Wheat, which was quite generally grown, is a splendid crop. The yield is re- ported to average from 22 to 26 bushels to the acre. Many fields, partic- ularly well cultivated, yielded 30 bushels or more to the acre, and others, OREGON AS IT IS. where farming methods were poor, did not produce more than 15 bush- els, but the average was fully up to expectations. It is demonstrated beyond question that the country will raise grain, and that it will raise other farm products goes with this without saying. The spring season of northern Wasco County is a month earlier than that of the Willamette Valley, and its “truck” products could always have the first and highest sales in the market of Portland. The country is splendidly adapted for this kind of farming, and witli it the drouths which must be expected occasionally will interfere less than with wheat as an exclusive crop. Besides, vegetable and fruit crops do not drain and impoverish the soil as does grain growing. Northern Wasco is the most favored region of this much-favored State for fruit production. It lacks some of the minor advantages of Southern Oregon, but this is more than compensated by its situation next door to the Portland mar- ket. Apples, cherries, pears, peaohes and small fruits mature very early there, and their form and flavor is unsurpassed. UNION COUNTY. This is situated in the extreme northeastern part of the State, and is about 100 miles square. The surface of the country, embraced within the county limits, is mountainous and generally quite elevated. Grande Ronde Valley being about 2,700 feet above the level of the sea. The mountains are much higher. In places they are five, six, and in some in- stances, perhaps seven thousand feet above the sea. The climate is generally dry, though fairly seasonable as to .rainfall. The fall rains begin usually in September, but are not generally copious until the latter part of October or the first of November. From about the middle of November to the first or middle of March, there is usually more or less snow, which in the more elevated sections accumulates to considerable depth, and in the higher mountains remains until late in the spring, not entirely disappearing in the highest ranges until in July. The latter part of March, all of April, and the early part of May is usu- ally more or less interspersed with showers, and generally there are sea- sonable showers in June and July. There are not less than 400,000 acres of the best quality of agricultural lands and twice as much grazing land in the county, the residue of the county is covered with an almost inexhaustible supply of timber of a very superior quality, embracing pine, spruce, tamarack and fir. Union is a splendid stock and butter county, and is finely adapted to fruit growing. Horse breeding is a great industry in this section, and valua- ble importations of thoroughbred stock from California and Kentucky have been made. The bare and timberless hills are covered with succu- lent bunch-grass, while the pasturage in the pine forests, though less nu- 56 OREGON AS IT IS. tritious in its nature, is so well sheltered that cattle keep fat and strong during the severest winters. There are two considerable towns in the county, Union and LaGrande. CROOK COUNTY. Was cut away from Wasco, and forms its southern boundary. It has a population of about 8,000. Most of the inhabitants of this county are engaged in stock-raising, though there are large tracts of good soil for general farming, in the county. These wide areas will become very valu- able in time, and the immigrant who settles there now will reap a rich reward as the county settles up. MORROW AND GILLIAM Are two new counties created by the Legislative Assembly of 1885. Mor- row County was almost entirely taken from Umatilla ; a small portion from Grant and Wasco. The county seat was fixed at Heppner, and the general description of Umatilla will answer for it. Gilliam County was wholly taken from Wasco. The county seat is at Alkali, a nourishing town on the Oregon Railway and Navigation Com- pany’s railroad, 138 miles from Portland. SH5H 5 BSS5B SaSBSBSa5HSa5H5B3a!jg‘5Hga5Eb'H£rH5gHegB5aSH5?Sg5HSaSESB5H5a5a5H5HSH5a555HS'asaSH5HgSaeSB5HSaSaSH5a5E5B5a5~gSe!SeSgSc THE WEST SHORE, (Now in its eleventh year of publication), Aii illustrated monthly magazine; gives information about Oregon, Wash- ington, Idaho and Montana. It is connected with no land office or real estate agency, but is a genuine journal of information. Illustrations of scenery, improvements and industries appear in every number, accompanied by reliable descriptions. Only $2 a year. Send 25 cts. for sample copy. Addi .•ess : THE WEST SHORE, Drawer 3, Portland, Oregon.