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Lop y power te ipier serensresecetetsce tones plaletereseateteteonsts tesepeteelesss Hi ° et ss of ng leietestdtelesroprreceenert ts. 4 Pete Te Sree Ole! bpeteere ten. eg ees be gi te tele. + eter pe Pat eogeaes Taig igsetes) descent vermersetite Fat otestatrterere-*hieteseeet tel eres ae sé Thittoresiafettessseiety : : : - ” oie tirocesentatets in puoescosensnese ry se ibgpvasmentny riscstseses paecbsterscestssseruse rere reste reTacat of bibacwesce og sa she enae Nt su dugess parses spe Pee Sree Sesnsect che sesiscet shoseoerete ae iojeisiomititscesmefiialetestesiosseetaie Pi Bfecncsceeerot eatctsonczs tate sbanteceraiesestaatsestattsrt ately bel R2ees mors shekworserevers P Phsbo ees sieleleretertr ty, b: ere f eibsocesiicesersatesecestines: seeeees preserwt yt Ses savaseser as spae-wesishesdh secs i miatstt tones $421 Psesecesepase tens bane sheeencoreeproesascar eg fi tinistese iipsiebe ees passeenesi fei tite isan ocshstslatreecese tase pt sesettststses ea easennt Se tit esesesiie Seeshese bietetial. - ee tereeeers he lesesty ly me Sracnscsasncadesncecce ar stvuseestorersa menesasse asec et raewenett? poret pers ouceess ga dashescce ar : tatathinteteietisie: seeer eres sietpieiererencst Soeiictateseses: tik pesesne sic sseeoesn tae eaeueat Pet pean sasvearertT si ji lasmees ort ercnetrerereres sare tee 98) fetes wtitt pete aise oer re of ibewes : : neg ip pense seta fb peewteraeet eee graces -crer eet tansatoesensesesesetretensisstiiceesesesr Site srn henl it frsesaseebantetgnanses ieee yo < SRE ESTEE py Senet ats tats toeceatemes Daa eee + tele, “ roe peerse rssh se 3 oe yisirisiisutesess s Satrriilafisl tee ieee eh be ster : Miseitiremietcststotesereese = ela te tenn iene here memes UE ihesets Thi cocesasesns Pererstors Tarra PISht hy bepererers, laheies ra beneatart eek Os Tt ig lérereemeeslies ThE se : siw Pee e etre te ti tesoeeehi ot hs >4nheee hie eeerrt) aeerteeey Spheveristerrpetbwieteteisisite wciotth ete teed Usssristesssesseh: ar sifiseseesesciwcosets. httoeerepe sucess . Hele 54 Lonsasncenl bern sesersts bres toes Tereteret eter bee ; ears eet ve! Epes eer oaskdeteghabaewenees pesene secs ssesasuseres 5 rapepecweress se socoeetrer Pe seanansdesoenaned prseres te ley late rereee NOTICE: Return or renew all Library Materials! The Minimum Fee for each Lost Book is $50.00. The person charging this material is responsible for h its return to the library from which it was withdrawn € on or before the Latest Date stamped below. Theft, mutilation, and underlining of books are reasons for discipli- nary action and may result in dismissal from the University. To renew call Telephone Center, 333-8400 UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN Mi, Gime Ky S& em on oii ae L161—O-1096 . 1 eee avs AN IGOROT WARRIOR. Drawn from life by Julian Miller. The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. From Ifugae to Kalinga A Ride Through the Mountains of Northern Luzon With an Appendix on the Independence of the Philippines BY CORNELIS DE WITT WILLCOX, Lieutenant-Colonel U.S. Army, Professor United States Military Academy, Officier d’ Académie. Kansas Ciry, Mo., U. S. A. FRANKLIN Hupson PUBLISHING Co., 1912, eee 7 . 4 : a * i] ef : ‘ 5 ~ Tr “a » ‘ = 7 é ar » 7 - * = fe” t ” < = ‘ 7 ' * i x 3 J fi or ee : . - x | a \ ' ; \ ‘ . . - * , - ¥ a ‘ ' Copyright 1912 es : d aA veld : / By . ye haa, a ae . . a, 11: ie (hs \bee SS Ae ‘Sap Franklin Hudson Publishing Company. Le Peal r f, rit ~ NY , ‘> 1 ' . , . "> \ - a we i an x : ' i i : , “ ) ; ‘ fs 7A tad 5 > S oN PO * x \ . : 4; = ; . ' % LI : , « a ‘ . i r / ’ cf ~~ ’ x s ‘ yr J ' # — ' « ee ee , My er . , vey 7 ; " Ae 4 BY *. pa é Je Bk md 4 ena re : . rs, The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. TABLE OF CONTENTS. PeTEOM IDTASTRATIONS: 0... bce oss ye i A i ae ae ee ee A ty ON igh) OM ee da Ree OY Re ECU re eee hs re ge AY eee ae ae A a EL a Highlanders of Northern Luzon.—Meaning of the word Igorrote-—Trails.—The Mountain Province.—Nature of the country. : TEES OS Me oe tale 3 NSTI ee ae Annua! inspection of the mountain tribes.—We set out from Baguio.—Pangasinan Province.—Agno River.— Reception by the people. eT eit ee ate ea, 8s Me ee ght Ce Padre Juan Villaverde.—His great trail—The beginning of the mountain journey.—Nozo. Dee Tole 9 Ver ee ee ee ee oe ore ei Early start.—Pine forest —Vegetation.—Rest at Amugan. —The gansa —Boné. RRIF RURE MAS OL ke PRA Mee Ls TCO Cie BO ay Ce et gt ad Aritao.—Bubud.—Dutpax.—Start for Campote. EE UPSET hth ie Hh Med, eae) Lian as y Ra ee le Ay The Ilongots and their country.—Efforts of our Govern- ment to reach these people—The forest trail.—Our first contact with the wild man. Sa NINE sooth APE ee Ee a ee one ee eee ae” eer School at Campote.—Our white pony, and the offer made for his tail. PME ECE CRE) SOME Apia a te Sta sh ake aie by cb aaa, Woden we nae Se Ld Appearance of the Ilongots.—Dress.—Issue of beads and ° cloth.—Warrior Dance.—School work.—Absence of old women from meeting. OE DUS, AAG eas ide, CTR ick CO ao a Ra a Return to civilization.—Reception at Bambang.—Agli- payanos and Protestants. 0 SWS JOT rr eee ee Magat River.—Enthusiastic reception at Bayombong.— Speeches and reports.—Solano.—lIfugao “‘college yell.”’ —Bagahag. ee a Ce RL ee ST EN A gs BC od ale hoe Nhe aw Xe We enter the Mountain Province.—Payawan.—Kiangan, its position —Anitos.—Speech of welcome by Ifugao chief —Detachment of native Constabulary.—Visit of Ifugao chiefs to our quarters.— Dancing. PAGE se 30 wok fay SO 256 nog Tho Ke - 78 88 8 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. PAGE CHAPTER XB |. ovate FR ae ee eee 104 Day opens badly.-—Ifugao houses.—The people assemble. —Dancing. — Speeches. — White paper streamers. -— Head-hunter Dance.—Cafao. CHAPTEROXCIITTL so uh a ree Sis ps 8 ie ec 117 Dress of the people-—Butchery of carabao.-—Prisoner runs amok and is killed. CHAPTER XUV cigets CMa ae oo Go eee oe th cate ay lene ae 126 Barton's account of a native funeral. CHAPTER XV rh, ole DG Gee ee nd etn site fe 139 Visit to the Silipan Ifugaos at Andangle.—The Ibilao River.—Athletic feat.—Rest-house and stable at Sabig. CHAPTER XV Li). 2. Pees a ee Ae Se Oe ee en 148 Change in aspect of country —Mount Amuyao and the native legend of the Flood.—Rice terraces.—Benawe.— Mr. Worcester’s first visit to this region.—Sports.— Absence of weapons.—Native arts and crafts. Crraprer XVI 6 cc og fe cn 5 nk eee ee 162 We ride to Bontok.—Bat-nets.—Character of the country. —Ambawan.—Difficulties of the trail —Bird-scarers.— Talubin—Bishop Carrol! of Vigan.—We reach Bon- tok.— ‘‘The Star-spangled Banner.’’—Appearance of the Bontok Igorot —Incidents. CHAPTER XOVITL. cos yi ek ee ene ne 179 Importance of Bontok —Head-taking —Atonement for bloodshed.—Sports.—Slapping game. CHAPTER CDN oo eliccls soe en eats oar ee er 190 The native village -—Houses.—Pit-a-pit—Native insti- tutions.—Lumawig. CHAPTER De io nah eae ee ee a 2 199 We push on north.—Banana skirts.—Albino child.—Pine uplands.—Glorious view. CeoAPpTER XOX] | ao rah oy ee Ae eRe eee 205 Deep Valley —A poor rancheria.—Escort of boys.—De- scent of Tinglayan Hill.—Sullen reception at Tinglayan. —Bangad.—First view of the Kalingas.—Arrival at Lubuagan. CHAPTER XT Ore Ay eek ae See oe teres ade cee 221 Splendid appearance of the Kalingas.— Dancing.—Lubu- agan.—Bas1.—Councils——Bustles and braids.—Jewels and weapons.—Excellent houses. % The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 9 RIEL LA ube oleate Slay, Aihara tee toeee AMG) Wl bud Shere wietere oie « hve pes 234 We leave the mountains. — Nanong. — Passage of the Chico—The Apayao.—Tabuk.—The party breaks up. —Desolate plain—The Cagayan Valley.—Enrile. CHAPTER XXIV Tobacco industry.—Tuguegarao.—Caves.—The Cagayan sale River. — Barangayans. — Aparri.—Island of Fuga.— Sail for Manila.—Stop at Vigan.—Arrival at Manila. SERS aN at es aes Orie ears Sao aE ous te FA pies 8H gk 262 Future of the Highlanders.—Origin of our effort to im- prove their condition —Impolicy of any change in pres- ent administration. Transfer of control of wild tribes to Christianized Filipinos——Comparison of our course with that of the Japanese in Formosa. US a Tega 0 cL Ali i a ee Bae ag 281 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE mreeerOrot: WALTiON. pemee eee Pme er i le eae ee ba 8 2 mrt eatl ©." WOLrCesten, mmm wien feta. 5 6 ok ps ales os aa sues obis 19 Views of the Benguet Road............. LO er ae 20 Seer elie On tire. Menrtict MOA 242. . Gixcav as Pee ater ee so 25, 26 Peers | War MAA VOTO, |, (oper ce eee ON a a Ae eg Seceetsnteal vince eh 35 Benguet Road, Zig-zag....... sai, Par be Ue Te Ge aE 36 Sreeerernierrovitice of bontok 3... 0.02. oe eee. hee 4I ICAL DENY SULIT ae leg! Sco elas 3! hat ot 3s whet a lester A RON et gle ee 42 Native Policemen............ EA aa ena tas Oho ks Rete ag’ oo ae 47 Pe eccOneeuminitvec OL. iigaos.. < Waterton 22.62 dow eee 48 Nonntai ocene in the:Hugao Country sies she... 2) 2 57 Mountain Scene between Benawe and Kiangan............... 58 Pata Dal ACV Wa Ge AF re OS: ou as ee oe cd Pe ne sos ae 63 Ifugao Couple with Adornments of a Wedding Ceremony...... 64 eIPE A COLIN TAS Fock, conte Bot bhatt Rese Lceat cue kop ene ARE alee ete fe 69 Headiess body of Ifugao Warrior..».;. 0... See ees es adel one es Oh JO) BRIO e VAT TIOL Ch oe oo fohnle Sy (one ewe ee coe ROTA) Sra 79 EMOTE LEU AAL LOUISE oF dud s «oad FS Re ere 80 fineas Makine Rounds of.Granary.. i... surges y+. ee (85 rte ne PETIPET ge Se ES Bie us Bye 6 3 c.< clayton ao tg 86 aienorewmemMaking 2 Speech. Jes .\7 1 Mp ee nies Wes easels gI Conference between Government Officers and the Headmen of EVIE REREETIOCR CY 1 Were eS cls s,s 's ‘xs ahd Rees REDS Pod 92 4 10 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. Itugao Head-hunter, ‘Full: Dress. un ee ee IOL Head-niinter Dance, Kangana. Wee ee at ee ee 102, 107 Dancing, at Kaangan 3 seu aian fan 7 che ees he ee Jfugaos: Dancing; o,f enw ts aks tie eee ee 113 Silfpan Ifugao Barringan sh csaie toss a ee 114 Ifugaos: Dancin, ;Beriawe: ws, 3 .0).\.05 0.0 ak eee eee 123 Crossing Ibilao’ River by Flying Trolley >"): .< 244. +. eee 124 ifieao Head Dantew a.) cana: a ib aca: bie dost Wink a ys 133 Rice ‘Terraces; at, Benawets.. fsa eee Me ee 134, 143 Body of Igorot Girl Prepared for Burial. a. /s9).0-4 ee ee 144 Carabao: Fights) 3) SAS. a8 ee Se ea a 153 Tgorot::Fribtunal... gy aie pane aes ee ce et ce 154 A Bontok Igorot Houser oe so neu spoon hie ce 163 Igorot Rice Fields. : "tes dessa: if ow ee 2 ee 164 On the Trail from Benguet to Cervantes........ 2.) 5.0/0 eee 169 Borntok Igorot Woman 72528 sc. 3. ode ae ey ee 170 Elaborate Tattooing of the Head-hunter..................... 175 Bontok Igorot Constabulary Soldiers, a. 2a eee ee 185 Bontok Igorot Slapping Game./. . diay ee ee ee 186, I9I Gansas with Human Jaws as Hatidlesi inert cee ee 192 Women and Girls Wearing Banana-leaf Skirts................ 197 New School-house, Bontok?s<. 2220) uy «ee et ee ~198 Walley of the Rio Chicos.) ao ear tre ci Sem) cee cen 207 Kalmga Girk, 2.9 Sis35. sist: cesar ie yi 5 aes ae ce 210 ‘Looking Down’ the Rio Chico... si eet ba ee ZT Spiral: Camote, Patchy: cake ape eth pee ed eo eae eta ee 216 “Madallam. Kalinga: Headmartiak cai a ais ei ren enone ee 219 Two Headmen of Tubuaganite 2: Va as 5 eee 220 ‘Kalinga Warriorsi:).cisy eee an os oe ee ene ee 229 ‘Typical. Kalitiga Mouse gig ot) cei wie ire eae ane 230 Conference at. Lubuagano ceo. te ee eee ee ale Pe View) of Lubuagan;) Capitalof Kalinga: o.0 os. ye eee beeen 240 Kalinga Head-ax 932 ee oe Ore Yee 249 Teorot- shields, ie 2) ee pees oy uh ko 250 Ifugao Carved Bowl. 5 ix ca fos 4 wc re Ree a ra ee 259 Ifugao Pipe, Carved Figure, and Wooden Spoon.............. 260 Carved: Wooden Figurines .cs', Si 7s tie es ets es le au Ce 269 Map of: Northern DLuzony yak 2 et oie ss os 2 270 PREFACE. od In 1910 the Secretary of the Interior of the Philippine Islands did me the honor to invite me to accompany him on his annual tour of inspection through the Mountain Province of Northern Luzon. In the following pages I have tried to describe what fell under my notice during the journey, with such comments, observations, and conclusions as seemed pertinent. I should like here to thank Mr. Worcester for having invited me to join him, and Major-General Duvall, United States Army, for allowing me to accept. My thanks are also due the various offi- cers and officials of the ‘Insular Government who placed me under obligations by their hospitality and other courtesies and by the never-failing patience with which they received and answered my many questions. To my friend Colonel J. G. Harbord, United States Army, Assistant Director of Constab- ulary, I am beholden for instructions sent out in advance of the journey to the various Constabulary posts on the itinerary, directing them to offer me every opportunity to accomplish the purpose of my 11 12 Preface. trip. Except where otherwise indicated, the illus- . trations are from photographs taken either by Mr. Worcester himself, or else under his direction. Some of these, as shown, were lent to me by the National Geographic Magazine of Washington, and others by the Bureau of Insular Affairs of the War Depart- ment. My best thanks are due and given in each case. Dr. Heiser was kind enough to let me have a few photographs taken by him. To Lieutenant P. D. Glassford, 2d Regiment of Field Artillery, I am indebted for the map of Northern Luzon and for one or two other illustrations copied from Jenks’ ‘“The Bontoc Igorot’’; to Father Malumbres, of the Dominican Monastery in Manila, for information relating to Padre Villaverde and for the portrait of that missionary; it is to be regretted that this por- trait should be so unsatisfactory, but it is the only one available. The frontispiece is by Mr. Julian Miller, who has lived in the Igorot country, and whose drawing is from life. C.-DE Wa We West Point, N. Y., January, 1912. CTUA toed Highlanders of Northern Luzon.—Meaning of the word ‘‘Igorot.’’— Trails.—The Mountain Province.—Nature of the country. It is to be regretted that the people of the United States should in general show so little in- terest in the Philippine Islands. This lack of in- terest may be due to lack of knowledge; if this be so, then it is the duty of those better informed to do all that hes in their power to develop the interest now regrettably absent. Be this as it may, it is assumed here that most of our people do not know that a very large fraction of the inhabitants of the Philippines consists of the so-called wild men, and that of these the greatest group or collection is found in the mountains of Northern Luzon. | These mountaineers or highlanders constitute perhaps, all other things being equal, as interesting a body of uncivilized people as is to be found on the face of the earth to-day. The Spaniards, of course, soon discovered their existence, the first mention of them being made by De Morga, in his “ Sucesos de las Islas Filipinas” (1609). He speaks* of them as in- habiting the interior of a rough mountainous coun- *See Retana’s edition, p. 183, Madrid, 1909. 13 14 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. try, where are ‘“‘many natives who are not pacified, nor has anyone gone into their country, who call themselves Ygolotes.’’ Here we have the first form, the classic form according to Retana, of the word now universally written [gorrote, or in English [go- rot. The word itself means “‘highlanders,’’ golot be- ing a Tagalog word for ‘“‘mountain,’’ and J a prefix meaning ‘“‘people of.’’ De Morga mentions the , ’ ‘““Ygolotes”’ as owning rich mines of gold and silver, which ‘‘they work as there is need,’’ and he goes on to say that in spite of all the diligence made to know their mines, and how they work and improve them, the matter has come to naught, “because they are cautious with the Spaniards who go to them in search of gold, and say they keep it better guarded under ground than in their houses.”’ The Spaniards at a very early date sent armed exploring parties through the highlands and main- tained garrisons here and there down to our own time.* But they never really held the country. The Church, too, early entered this territory, the field being given over to the Dominicans,f who *It is interesting to note that as late as 1889 General Weyler, then Governor-General of the Archipelago, in establishing various comandancias, drew up regulations for the treatment of the natives, etc.,as remarkable for lenity and good sense as his later measures in Cuba were, whether justly or not, distinguished for severity. *For an account of the early missions of this order, see the Manila Libertas of May 23, 1910. | i) The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 15 furnished many devoted missionaries to the cause. But here, tDo, failure must be recorded in respect of permanency of resultsin the really wild parts of the Highlands. It has remained for our own Gov- ernment to get a real hold of the people of these regions, to win their confidence, command their re- spect, and exact their obedience in all relations in which obedience is proper and just. The indispensable material condition of suc- cess was to make the mountain country accessible. Only those who have had the fortune to travel through this country can realize how difficult this endeavor has been and must continue to be, chiefly because of the great local complexity of the mountain system, but also because of the severely destructive storms of this region, with consequent torrential violence of the streams affected. But little money, too, can be, or has been, spent for the necessary road-work. In spite of the difficulties involved, however, a system of road-making has been set on foot, the labor needed being furnished by the high- landers themselves in lieu of a road tax. Very briefly, the system is as follows: (a) The first thing done is to open what is known as the ‘‘ meter trail,’’ z. e., a trail one meter wide, at a grade not to exceed 6 per cent, and where possible to be kept at 4 per cent. At certain Ne 16 The Head Hunters of Northern £,1z0n. points where the absolute necessity exists, a Io per cent grade is admissible for very shor( distances, as at river crossings, but only where a gthtler grade would involve a long detour at great expense. This ‘‘meter trail’’ weathers for one year, and thus automatically develops its own weak spots. These are repaired as fast as discovered (which is practically at once, by reason of constant super- vision), and the trail thus hardens, as it were, into something approaching permanency. (b) The next step in the history of the trail is to widen it to two meters, the same general course being followed as outlined in (a). Asa satisfactory state of permanency is reached we come to (c) The final widening, draining, and metal- ling of the trail to accommodate wagon traffic. The trail now becomes a permanent road. In many cases only. wooden tools have been available, and the lack of money has compelled a Sparing use of explosives. Nevertheless under this system there now exist in the Mountain Province 730 miles of excellent horse trail of easy grade,* and what is significant, the people of the highlands are using these trails, and so becoming peacefully ac- quainted with one another. *Report of the Secretary of the Interior, Philippine Islands, 1910; Washington Government Printing Office, 1911. The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 17 The Mountain Province itself is the outcome of the difficulties encountered in governing the wild tribes so long as these were left in provinces where either their interests were not paramount, or else the difficulties of administration were unduly costly or difficult. Established in 1908, it has a Governor, and each of its seven sub-provinces a Lieutenant- Governor, the sub-province as far as possible in- cluding people of one and of only one tribe. The creation of this province was a great step forward in promoting the welfare of the highlanders. A word must be said here in explanation of the nomenclature of the mountain tribes. Generic- ally, having in mind the meaning of the word, they are all Igorots. But it is the practice to distinguish the various elements of this great family by dif- ferent names, restricting the term “‘Igorot’’ to special branches, as Benguet Igorot, Bontok Igorot, mean- ing those who live in Benguet or Bontok. The other members are known as Ifugao, Ilongot, Ka- linga, and so on.* Lastly, the following extract from the ‘Census of the Philippine Islands’’t gives some idea of the mountain system in which dwell the people whom we are about to visit. *See ‘‘Census of the Philippine Islands,’ Vol. I., p. 453 et seq., for a discussion of the non-Christian tribes. TVol. I., p. 60 e¢ seq. 18 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. “West of this Valley [the Cagayan] and sep- arating it from the China Sea, stands a broad and complex system of mountains, known as the Cara- ballos Occidentales. Its length is nearly 200 miles, and its breadth, including the great spurs and sub- ordinate ranges and ridges on either side, is fully one-third its length. The central range of the sys- tem forms the divide between the waters flowing to Cagayan River on the east and those flowing to the China Sea on the west. Its northern part bears the name Cordillera Norte. Farther south it is called Cordillera Central, while the southern por- tion is called Cordillera Sur.” ‘“‘At its south end the Cordillera Sur swings to the east, and, under the name of Caraballos Sur, joins the Sierra Madre, or East Coast Range.”’ This description, it must be understood, gives no adequate idea of the local intricacy of the sys- tem, while at the same time it is precisely this in- tricacy, both vertical and horizontal, that increases the cost and difficulty of making roads, and that has served in the past to keep the inhabitants of these regions apart. ‘spurys] sulddyiqg ‘1o11ayUy VY} Jo Are}IINIG “AALSHOUNOM “D NVAC HWIAVAONOY AHL a VIEW ON THE BENGUET Roabp. At this point the line crosses back to the right bank of the Bued River. Qo CHAPTER II. Annual inspection of the mountain tribes.—We set out from Ba- guio.— Pangasinan Province.—Agno River.—Reception by the people. Every year Mr. Worcester makes a formal tour of inspection through the Mountain Province to note the progress of the trails and roads, to listen to complaints, to hear reports, devise ways and ‘means of betterment and in general to see how the hillmen are getting on. This tour is a very great affair to the highlanders, who are assembled in as great numbers as possible at the various points where stops are made; during the stay of the ‘“‘Com- mission”’ (as Mr. Worcester is universally called by the highlanders) at the points of assemblage, the wild people are subsisted by the Government. The trip is long and hard, nor is it altogether free from danger. Preparations have to be made two months ahead to have forage for animals, and food for human beings, at the expected halts, while everything eaten by man or beast on the way must be carried by the cargadores (bearers) who accom- pany the column, since living off the country is in general impossible. Under these circumstances but 21 22 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. very few guests can be invited. I was so fortunate as to be one of these in 1910; how fortunate, I did not realize until the trip was over. For although an American may ride alone unmolested through the country we visited, still he would see only what might fall under his eye as he made his way; where- as, on this official trip, thousands of people are brought together at designated points, and one can thus do and see in a month what it would take a much longer time to do and see under one’s own efforts. . This year (1910) the party was made up of Mr. Cameron Forbes, the Governor-General of the Philippine Islands; Mr. Worcester, Secretary of the Interior; Dr. Heiser, Director of Health; Dr. Strong, Chief of the Biological Laboratory; Mr. Pack, Gov- ernor of the Mountain Province; and of two offi- cers besides myself, Captain Cootes, 13th Cavalry, Aide de Camp to the Governor-General, and Captain Van Schaick, 16th Infantry, Governor of Mindoro. General Sir Harry Broadwood, commanding His Majesty's forces at Hong Kong, had been invited, but at the last moment cabled that his duties would prevent his coming. Unless he reads this book he will never know what he missed! As we passed through the various sub-provinces their respective The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 23 governors and one or two officials would join us and ride to the boundary. On account of the difficulties of supply and transportation, we were requested to bring no mu- chachos (boys—1t. e., servants), so we had to shift for ourselves. Our baggage was very strictly lim- ited; each man being allowed two parcels, one of bedding, and the other of clothes, neither to be more than could be easily carried on the back of a single cargador. Mr. Worcester took along for the whole party an ingenious apparatus of his own con- trivance for boiling drinking-water, as all streams in the Philippines at a level lower than 6,000 feet have been found to contain amcebe,* the parasitic presence of which in the intestines produces that frightful disease, amoebic dysentery. We were es- pecially desired to leave our revolvers at home, and had no escort. Accordingly, our mounts and kit having been sent on a day or two in advance, we set out from Baguio in motor-cars, April 26, at eight a. M., of an extraordinarily fine day. The day before it had rained mercilessly; not only that, but clouds and mists had enveloped us so that one could not see *Mr. A. H. Savage Landor, in his ‘‘Gems of the East,”’ pro- tests against our practice of boiling water before drinking it, but the experience of others is against him. He was simply fortunate in not being made ill by the natural water. 24 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. twenty yards ahead. We were nearing the rainy season, and conditions were uncertain, but this morning the gods were on our side and we could not have asked for better weather. We went down the splendid Benguet Road, following the bed of the Bued River* to the railway, a drop of over 4,000 feet in thirteen miles. Strange to say, the stream had not risen at all, a fortunate circum- stance, as one hundred and sixty bridges are crossed in the drop, and at times a rise will wash out not only the bridges, but all semblance of a road.f At the railway we turned south over the great plain of Pangasinan. This, in respect of roads, is the show province of the Archipelago and deserves its reputation, one hundred and twenty miles having been built. Those we passed over this day would have been called good in France even. Our pass- age was ofthe nature of a progress, thanks to the. presence of the Governor-General. Simple bamboo arches crossing the road greeted us everywhere, Mr. Forbes punctiliously raising his hat under every one. eee *An attempt has been made to stock this river with trout, but it has proved a failure. The fish grew and throve, but did not breed. {This happened on a large scale in the spring of this year (1912). Landslides having occurred on both banks of the cafion, and as luck would have it, at the same point, the waters rose behind the natural dam thus formed to a height of over one hundred feet, and breaking through, scoured the valley in their sweep, completely wiping out the road. WORKING ON THE BENGUET ROAD. 25 ORKING ON THE BENGUET ROAD. y / W 26 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 7 All the villages had decorated their houses; hand- kerchiefs, petticoats, red table-cloths, anything and everything had been hung out of the windows by way of flags and banners. Across the front of the municipal building of one village was stretched a banner with this inscription, “‘/u honor de la venida del Gobernador General y de su Comitiva’’ (‘‘In honor of the arrival of the Governor-General and of his retinue’’), and then below on the next band, “ De- seamos tener un pozo artesiano’’ (We should like to have an Artesian well’’), which led Mr. Worcester to remark that four years before the banner would have demanded “independencia’’ (independence), and not an Artesian well. Even in Pangasinan, good roads must come to an end, and ours did as we neared the Agno River. For this blessed river is a curse to its neighborhood, and rises in flood from a stream say seventy-five yards wide to a rushing lake, if the expression be permitted, half a mile and more across. Our car finally refused to move; its wheels simply turned in situ, so deep was the sand. There was nothing for it but to walk to the river bank, where we were met with many apologies.. A bamboo bridge had been built across the stream a few days before so that our cars might cross, but yesterday’s rain had washed it down, and would we try to cross on rafts? 28 The Flead Hunters of Northern Luzon. We looked at the rafts, bamboo platforms built over large bancas (canoes, double-enders cut out of a single log), the bamboos being lashed together with bezuco (rattan, the native substitute for nails), and decided that no self-respecting motor would stand such transportation, but would go to the bot- tom first by overturning. So we got our stuff aboard the rafts, were poled over, and made the rest of the journey to Tayug, our first considerable halt, in carromatas (the native two-wheeled, springless cart). Fortunately the distance was short, the-car- romata being an instrument of torture happily over- looked by the Spanish Inquisition. At Tayug a great concourse of people welcomed us, with arches, flags, and decorations. The pres- idencia, or town hall, was filled with the notabil- ities, and Mr. Forbes was presented with an address by one of the sefvoritas. Suitable answer having been made, we adjourned, the men first, the women following when we had done, according to native custom, to the side rooms, where a surprisingly good tiffin had been got ready for us, venison, chickens, French rolls, dulces (sweets), whiskey and soda, Heaven knows what else, to which, all unwitting of our doom, we did full justice. About two miles be- yond Tayug lies San Francisco, the initial point of our real mounted journey. The people along this The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 29 part of the road had simply outdone themselves in the matter of arches, there being one at every hun- dred yards almost. At San Francisco the crowd was greater than at Tayug; and here was set out for us another sumptuous tiffin, in a house built the day before for this very purpose, of bamboo and nipa palm. Access to it was had by a ladder and we sat down at a table, while the sevoras of the place waited on us, every inch of standing-room being occupied by people who had crowded in to see the performance of the Governor-General and of his comitiva! And perform we did—we had to! Ducks, chickens, venison, camotes (sweet potatoes), peppers, beer, red wine—no one would have thought that but three-quarters of an hour before we had just gone through the same thing. But it would have been the height of discourtesy to give way to our inclination by showing a lack of appetite; more- over, it is not often that a party is held in a house built to be used merely one hour. So we did honor to the occasion, but had to let out our belts before mounting immediately afterward. CHAPTER III. Padre Juan Villaverde.—His great trail—The beginning of the mountain journey.—Nozo. The point to which we had come, San Francisco, marks the beginning of the Juan Villaverde trail from the Central Valley of Luzon through the moun- tains before us, to the province of Nueva Vizcaya. All day the chain we were to pierce had been in sight, and. I for one had been wondering where we were to find a practicable entrance, so forbiddingly vertical did the range appear to be. Now the Spaniards in the Philippines at best were but poor road- or trail-makers. Indeed, in the matter of trails they were simply stupid, in some cases actually going straight up a hill and down the other side, when the way around was no longer, and of course far easier to maintain. But Padre Juan Villaverde of the Dominicans was a great and honorable exception. Quite apart from this aspect, we hear so much that is evil of the friars that it is a pleasure, when possible, to point out the good they did, a thing more frequently possible than people imagine it is. For Father Villaverde gave 30 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 31 his life to missionary work among the hill-people, seeking in every way to better their condition ma- terially as well as morally. Born in 1841, as early as 1868 we find him on duty at Bayombong, in Nueva Vizcaya, the province we were about to enter. From the first he seems to have been im- pressed by the possibilities of the country in which he was laboring; and, foreseeing that good com- munications would ultimately settle most of the questions relating to the highlanders, he built trails, trails that are still in use, whereas nearly all the others (but few in number) established by the Span- iards have been abandoned by us, where Nature has not indeed saved us the trouble by washing them out of existence. For thirty years Villaverde worked unceasingly, building roads and bridges and churches, and striving to civilize the people among whom he lived; but his chief work, that by which his memory is kept green to this day, is the great trail from the otherwise almost inaccessible province of Nueva Vizcaya, across the Caraballos to the Central Val- ley of Luzon, where access to the outer world by rail becomes possible. This trail is officially des- ignated by his name, and is maintained by Govern- ment. This was the one we were about to enter a2 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. upon.* Accordingly we thanked our kind hosts of San Francisco; and at last set out on our real trip. But, curious and eager as I felt to engage upon it, I could not help regretting that this part of our journey was over, that we had to turn our backs on the smiling plains of Pangasinan, its hospitable and courteous people. The day had been so cool and fresh, and our progress so easy; flat as was the country, it had its charm, the charm of cultivated plains, relieved by lanes of feathered bamboos, by clumps of nodding palms, by limpid streams. But we were off, nevertheless, the Governor - General on a cow-pony, nearly all the rest on Arabs and thoroughbreds, Van Schaick and I riding mountain ponies. We had fifteen miles to go to reach our first resting-place. Crossing a stream, we began to climb at once, and as we rose the plain of Central Luzon began to unroll itself below us, with our road of the morning stretching out in a straight white line through the green rice-fields. Far to the west we now and then caught glimpses of Lingayen Gulf, with the Zambales Mountains in full view running south and bordering *For a fuller account of Padre Villaverde’s labors, see the Manila Libertas of May 17, 1910. Villaverde remained at his post until his health broke completely; he set out for Spain, but never reached it, dying August 4, 1897, and being buried at sea a few hours only from Barcelona. The great trail he built reduced the cost of transportation by nine-tenths. The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 33 the plain, while still farther to the south Mount Arayat™ rose abruptly from its surrounding levels. Now Arayat is plainly visible from Manila. Here and there solitary rocky hills, looking for all the world like ant-heaps, but in reality hundreds of feet high, broke the uniformity of the plains. Flooded as the whole landscape was with brilliant sunshine, the view was exquisite in respect both of form and of color. But as we moved on, turning and twist- ing and ever rising, we were soon confined to just the few yards the sinuosities of the trail would al- low us to see at one time. For a part of the way the country was rocky, hills bare and fire-swept; not a tree or shrub suggested that we were in the tropics. Soon pines began to appear, and then thickened, till the trail led through a pine forest, pure and simple, the ground covered with green grass, and the whole fresh and moist from recent rains. It was up and down and around and around. Not a sign of animal life did we see, not a trace of human beings. *According to the native legend, this mountain used to form part of the Zambales range. It became, however, by reason of its quarrelsome disposition, so objectionable to its neighbors of this range, that they finally resolved no longer to endure its cantanker- ousness and accordingly banished it to its present position in the plain of Central Luzon, where it would have no neighbors to annoy, aud where it has stood ever since, rising solitary from the surround- ing plain. 34 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. I was disgusted, and still more disconcerted, this afternoon, to find my pony going badly. He was perfectly willing to walk, but at a most digni- fied rate, selected by himself. He apparently had no objection to catching up the party every now and then, but only to relapse into his funeral walk, after contact had been re-established. But then Cootes took the lead that afternoon, and as his thoroughbred had had two days’ rest, and breasted all the rises with apparent joyousness, nobody was able to keep up, until Mr. Worcester took the head with his black, a powerful but reasonable animal. However, everybody gets into camp sooner or later, and so did we all at a resting-point called Nozo, where we all turned in after supper, for reveille was to be at three o’clock. This had been a great day of contrasts in a descending scale, from motors, electric lights, and telephones in the morning to our solitary camp in the mountains at night, surrounded by watch-fires and guarded by Constabulary sen- tinels. This, by the way, was the only time we were so guarded. PADRE JUAN VILLAVERDE. ‘OVZ-OIZ ‘AVOY LHAONAG 36 CHAPTER IV. Early start.—Pine forest.—Vegetation.—Rest at Amugan.—The gansa.—Boné. We set out next morning at five-thirty. Our journey so far, that is, since we mounted, had taken us over a preliminary range, and now we began a more serious climb. The morning was delightfully fresh and cool, with promise of a fine blazing sun later. Far ahead and above us on the skyline, we could see a cut in the forest where our trail crossed the divide. But that was miles away, and in the meantime we were ascending a lovely valley, pines, grass, and bright red soil. It was delicious that morning, riding under the pines. “ Pinea brachia cum trepidant, Audio canticulum zephyr!” And part of the pleasure was due to the fact that we had an unobstructed view in all directions, usually not the case in the tropical forest. At one point we had a full view of Arayat, at another of Santo Tomas, near which we had passed yesterday on coming down from Baguio. But fine as were the 37 38 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. distant views we got from time to time, the great attraction was the country itself, through which we were passing. Barring the total absence of any sign of man, it might have been taken for Japan, in the neighborhood of Miyanoshita, without, how- ever, any trace of Japanese atmosphere. The valley was steep-walled, narrow and twist- ing, at one point closed by a single enormous rock nearly three hundred feet high—in fact, a conical hill rising right out of the floor of the valley, and apparently leaving just room for the stream to pass on one side. A curious fact was that while the mountains were decidedly northern-looking as to flora, yet the groins, wherever possible, were thoroughly tropical. For in these water runs off but slowly, with conse- quent richness of vegetation. And yet, on the other side of the divide which we were now approaching not a pine could be seen, but, on the contrary, the typical tropical forest in full development. The watershed, our skyline, was an almost absolute di- viding-mark. At any rate, there the pines stopped short. At the divide we crossed from Pangasinan into Nueva Vizcaya. And with the crossing began the forest just mentioned, and a long descent for us. Our immediate destination was Amugan, our first The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 39 rest halt. It is of absolutely no use to try to de- scribe this part of the trip. If the confusion of trees, vines, orchids, tree ferns, foliage plants, creep- ers, was bewildering, so was the impression pro- duced. But we saw many examples of the most beautiful begonia in existence, in full blossom, gor- geous spheres of dark scarlet hanging above and around us. According to Mr. Worcester, all at- tempts to transplant it have failed. Its blossoms would be sometimes twenty and thirty feet in the air. Nothing could exceed the glory of these masses of flowers, sometimes a foot and more in diameter, as projected by the rays of the early morning sun against the dark green background, the whole glis- tening and dripping in the rain-like dew. Tree ferns abounded; we passed one that must have been over sixty feet high. At one halt the ground about was aflame with yellow orchids, growing out of the ground. And there was one plant that I recognized myself, unaided, the wild tomato, a little thing of eight or nine inches, but holding up its head with all the rest of them. As always, on this trip, how- ever, it was the splendor of the country that held the attention, the wild incoherent mountain masses thrown together apparently without order or system, buttressed peaks, mighty flanks riven to the core by deep valleys, radiating spurs, re-entrant gorges, 40 The Head [Hunters of Northern Luzon. the limit of vision filled by crenellated ranges in all the serenity of their distant majesty. And then, as our trail wound in and out, different aspects of the same elements would present themselves, until really the faculty of admiration became exhausted. And so on down we went, to be greeted as we neared Amugan by a sound of tom-toms; it was a party that had come out to welcome us, carrying the Am- erican flag and beating the gansa (tom-tom) by way of music. The gansa, made of bronze, in shape re- sembles a circular pan about twelve or thirteen inches in diameter, with a border of about two inches turned up at right angles to the face. On the march it is hung from a string and beaten with a stick. Ata halt it is beaten with the open hand. After crossing a coffee plantation, we reached a little settlement, where we off-saddled and took a bite after six hours’ riding. The half-dozen houses of this tiny village are of the usual Filipino type, and the very few inhabitants were dressed after the fashion of the Christianized provinces. Neverthe- less, we here first encountered the savage we had come up to see; for not only did they have the gansa, but they offered usacafiao. This isa feast of which we shall have splendid examples later on, with dancing, beating of gansas, drinking and so on, and the sacrifice of a pig. ine or ten feet high. TREE FERN, PROVINCE OF BONTOK. bably n The grass in front is pro ILONGOT WOMEN, PACKING BAGGAGE ON THEIR BACKS FOR AN EXPLORER. Nueva Vizcaya. 42 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 43 Here the affair was to be much smaller, all the elements being absent except the pig and drums. We had noticed as we dismounted a pig tied to a post and evidently in a very uneasy frame of mind, and justly, for, although the honor of a catiao was declined, on account of the length of the ceremony and of the distance we had yet to go, still they were resolved upon the death of the pig. He, however, at the same time had made up his mind to escape, and by a mighty effort broke his tether, and got off; but in vain, for after a short but exciting chase he was caught and then, an incision having been made in his belly, a sharpened stick was inserted and stirred about until his insides were thoroughly mixed, when he died. (We left them cleaning and scraping and dividing, a ing two drums, about four feet long, eight inches in diameter, covered with leather at one end. These are beaten with the open hand, the performer sitting on the ground with the instrument coming up over his left thigh, and pro- duce a muffled and melancholy note. Mr. Forbes had some notion of buying one of them, but was told he would be simply wasting his time, both gansas and drums having an extraordinary value in the eye of their owners. We moved on, gradually descending, rested at Santa Fé, a rest-house and nothing else, for two or 44 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. three hours, and then turned north, following an af- fluent of the Magat River, by an old and poor trail, the new one having been washed out for three hun- dred yards some two or three miles ahead. And after dark we made Boné, our resting-place for the night. CHAPTER V. Aritao.— Bubud.—Dutpax.—Start for Campote. We all slept in the school-house, for Boné is a Christianized village, and next day, April 28th, made a late start, for it was to be a day of easy stages. By nine oclock, passing through an undulating cham- paign country, we reached Aritao, being met at the outskirts by gansa-beaters and also by the Christian school-children with medieval-looking banners, and all in their best bibs and tuckers; the heathen and the Christians mingling apparently on the best of terms. Aritao is an old town, now much decayed, but showing evidences of former affluence. It has a brick church, the bells of which were rung on our approach. As there is some Government here, of course we had to pay a visit of ceremony, and were ac- cordingly received by the presidente and other dig- nitaries in an upper chamber, the little children with their banners massing around the gate of the house and forming a really pretty picture. When we were all in, the presidente made the Governor- General and his suite a dignified speech of welcome, 45 46 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. very well done, to which Mr. Forbes made answer in fluent and pretty good Spanish. Bubud was then passed about—but this is go- ing too fast! Bubud (called tapuy elsewhere) is an institution in the parts where we now were, and I had been hearing of it for days. It is the native (Ifugao) name of a drink produced by the fermen- tation of rice, a drink that varies in color and in fla- vor, according to the care taken in its make, but nearly always agreeable to the palate and refreshing. That offered us to-day was greenish yellow, slightly acid and somewhat bitter from the herbs added. Un- fortunately, it will not bear transportation, but we made up for this by carrying off personally as much as was convenient. It had a happy effect on my pony, too: all the way to Aritao he had been slower than the wrath to come, but from this on he showed life and spirit; in fact, he danced and pranced through every town we crossed for some days afterward. I always meant to ask if some one had given him any bubud at Aritao, during the speech-making; on reflection I am inclined to doubt it, but at any rate, in honor of the circumstances, he was known as Bubud the rest of the trip. A short ride through the charming, smiling country (part of it might have been France), over a really good road most of the way, brought us to 47 Photograph by Cootes. NATIVE POLICEMEN, IFUGAO, ON THE TRAIL TO KIANGAN. ["worsstusag qorsads Ky fII6I yystskdo) ‘2 'q ‘uopsurysoyy ‘aursvsvpy 2144 DAd0aH JDUOYDAT WO4,J | ‘Ayied Sty puv IOLDJUT 9} JO A1e}9IVIG 3Y} JOO! 02 INO 9UIOD DALY] OY M ‘OVI NVOINHWY NV HIIM SOVONAT JO HHLLINWOD NOMLdHOaYy 4g The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 49 Dipax. On the way we were met by some of the American officials of the province, among them Mr. Norman Connor, Superintendent of Education (Yale, 1900), and by two Belgian priests, DeWit of Dapax and Van del Maes of Bayombong. The natives met us, all mounted, with a band, so that we made a triumphant entrance, advancing in line to the pre- sidente’s house, while the church - bell pealed out a welcome. Diapax must, like Aritao, have been a point of some importance in the past. It has a large brick church with a decidedly Flemish facade, and a de- tached pagoda-like belfry. Its streets are overgrown with fine soft grass, and its houses had somehow or other an air of comfort and ease. Here we made quite a stop, first of all quenching our thirst with bubud, beer, cocoanut milk, anything, everything, for we had ridden nearly all the way so far in the sun. We then sat down to an excellent breakfast, and smoked and lounged about until two, when fresh ponies were brought, and we set off on a side trip to Campote, where we were to have our first contact with the real wild man, the Ilongot.* *Dr. Barrows, in the ‘“‘Census of the Philippine Islands,’’ Vol. I., Pp. 471, says that the etymology of this word is unknown. As it “seems to mean ‘‘ people of the mountains,”’ it is not unlikely to be a form of “‘Igolot,’’ by metathesis, as it were. CHAPTER VI. The Ilongots and their country.—Efforts of our Government ‘to reach these people-—The forest trail.—Our first contact with the wild man. These people, the Hlongots, although very few in number, only six thousand, stretch from Nueva Vizcaya to the Pacific Coast, inhabiting an immense region of forested and all but inaccessible mountains. Over these they roam without any specially fixed habitation. They have the reputation, and appar- ently deserve it, of being cruel and treacherous, as they certainly are shy and wild. It was these peo- ple who killed Doctor Jones, of the Marshall Field Museum, after he had been with them eight or nine ,months. So recently as 1907 they made a descent on Dipax, killing people and taking their heads. When they mean to kill a man fairly, according to their ideas, they hand him a fish. This is a signal that he must be on his guard: to refuse the fish is of no use, because by so doing one puts one’s self beyond the pale, and may be killed in any fashion. We heard a story here of a Negrito stealing a pig from two Ilongots who had a Negrito brother-in-law. Failing to recover the pig, they decided that they 50 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 51 must have a Negrito head, and so took their brother- in-law’s. Pig-stealing, by the way, in the mountain country is regarded much as horse-stealing used to be out West. Besides the spear and head knife, the Llongots, like the Negritos, with whom they have intermarried to a certain extent, use the bow and arrow, and are correspondingly dreaded. For it seems to be believed in Luzon that bow-and- arrow Savages are more dangerous than spear- and ax-men; that the use of this projectile weapon, the arrow, induces craftiness, hard to contend against. An Ilongot can silently shoot you in the back, after you have passed. A spear-man has to get closer, and can not use an ambush so readily.* Now our Government in the Philippines, by ‘and through and because of Mr. Worcester, had. made repeated efforts to reach these Ilongots, to bring them in, as it were, and only recently had these efforts met with any success. For one thing, it is a very serious matter to seek them out in the depths of their fastnesses if only because of the difficulty of reaching them; many of them even *According to some accounts, the highlanders, in throwing the spear, give it a rotation around its longest axis, twirling it rapidly in the hand as this is brought up before the throw. In other words, they have discovered that a rotating spear has greater accuracy than a non-rotating one. If this is true, this discovery is worthy to be bracketed with the use of the fire-syringe by the Tinguians of the North, and by certain other wild people of the Archipelago. 52 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. - now have never seen a white man, and would escape, if I recollect aright, on the aproach of our people. But in 1908 some fifty of them did ‘‘come in,”’ and, gaining confidence, this number grew to one hun- dred and fifty in 1909. They, or some of them at least, now sent an invitation to Mr. Worcester to come and see them, and he accepted on condition of their making a trail, saying that they could not expect a man of his stature to creep through their country on his hands and knees. This trail they had built, and they had assembled at Campote, four hours from Diipax, for this first formal visit. It was the desire of Mr. Worcester that this visit should be happy in all respects; for, if not, the difficulties of intercourse with this people, already great, would be so seriously increased as to delay the civilizing intentions of the Government for many years to come. We rode off at about two o'clock, passing under numberless bamboo arches, on an astonishingly good toad, built by Padre Juan Villaverde. About two miles out we left the road, turning off east across rice-paddies, and then followed a stream, which we crossed near the foot of a large bare mountain facing south. Up this we zigzagged four miles, a tiresome stretch with the sun shining full upon us. But at the top we had our reward: to the south reached The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 53 a beautiful open valley, its floor a mass of green undulations, its walls purple mountains blazing in the full glory of the afternoon sun. At the extreme south, miles away, we could make out Las Salinas, Salt Springs,* whose deposits sparkled and shone and scintillated and danced in the heated air. Grateful as it would have been to rest at the top and enjoy the scene, we nevertheless had to turn our backs upon it, for we had yet far to go over an unknown trail, and it was most desirable to get in before dark. So we turned and now plunged into a forest of tall trees so thick overhead and so deeply buried in vines, and creepers and underbrush generally, that just as no light got in from above, so one could not see ten yards in any direction off the trail. This effect was no doubt partly due to the shades of evening, and to our being on the eastern slope of the mountain. And that trail! The Ilongots, poor chaps, had done their best with it, and the labor of construction must have been fearful.f But the footing was nothing but volcanic mud, laterite, all the worse from a recent rain. Our ponies sank over their fetlocks at every step, and required con- *These salt deposits are now (1912), to the great satisfaction of the people of the province, being worked by the Government, and salt has ceased to be a luxury withiu the reach of only the few rich. +The Ilongots are so few in number and scattered over so vast and rough a country that trail-making can never be as successful in their territory as it has been farther north. 54 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. stant urging to move at all. Compared to the one I was riding, Bubud was arace-horse! Cootes, Strong, and I kept together, the others having ridden on. As the day grew darker and darker, the myriad notes of countless insects melted into one mighty, con- tinuous shrill note high overhead, before us, behind us, in which not one break or intermission could be detected. Anything faster than a walk would now have been unsafe, even if it had been possible, for at times the ground sloped off sharply down the mountain, the footing grew more and more un- certain, and part of the time we could not see the trail at all. Indeed, Cootes’s pony stepped in a hole and fell, pitching Cootes clean over his head, and sending his helmet down the mountain-side, where Cootes had to go and get it. Soon after this, though, the forest thinned perceptibly, the trail grew better, and we met Connor, who had turned back to see how we were getting on, and who informed us we had only one-half hour more before us. Going on; we were creeted™ by, a shout of welcome from our first Ilongot, standing in the trail, subligate, or gee-stringed, otherwise stark naked, and armed with a spear, the sentinel of a sort of outpost, equally naked, with which we soon came up. They were all armed, too, spears and shields, and all insisted on shaking hands with every one of us. You must The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 55 shake hands when they offer to, an unpleasant mat- ter sometimes, when you notice that the man who is paying you this attention is covered with tenia imbricata, or other rare tropical skin disease.* No- blesse oblige, here as elsewhere; besides, a considera- tion for your own skin may require you to put aside your prejudices. The trail now turned down over a broad, cleared hog-back, at the flattened end of which we could see two shacks and a temporary shed for our mounts. Smoke was rising cheerfully in the air and people were moving about. This was Campote. | *Dampier’s description of what he saw in Mindanao fits here: ‘This Distemper runs with a dry Scurf all over their Bodies, and causeth great itching in those that have it, making them frequently scratch and scrub themselves, which raiseth the outer skin in small whitish flakes, like the scales of little Fish, when they are raised on end with a Knife. This makes their skin extraordi- nary rough, and in some you shall see broad white spots in sev- eral parts of their Body. I judge such have had it, but are cured; for their skins were smooth, and I did not perceive them to scrub themselves: yet I have learnt from their own mouths that these spots were from this Distemper.’’—Dampier’s ‘‘ Voyages,’’ Mase- field’s edition, p. 341; New York, E. P. Dutton & Co., 1906. CHAPE HRY Vid, School at Campote.—Our white pony, and the offer made for his tail. It was too dark by this time to see or do much. We had supper, looked up the place where we were to sleep, and then collected at the lower of the two Shacks. Here we received visits, so to say, from as many Ilongots, grown men only, as could get into the place. In truth, we were as much objects of curiosity to them as they possibly could have been to us. To Mr. Worcester the occasion was one of business, explaining through interpreters why we had come, what the Government wanted, getting acquainted with the cabecillas (head men), and lis- tening to what they had themselves to say. One of our visitors was a grandfather, remarkable, first, because of his heavy long beard, and, second, be- cause his own grandfather was alive; five genera- tions of one family in existence at the same time. Campote, I may as well say it here as anywhere else, is merely a point where Connor has established a school for children, under a Christianized Filipino teacher. Some thirty children in all are under in- struction, the average attendance being twenty-four. 56 ‘AMUINNOD OVONAT AHL NI ANHOS NIVINAOJT 57 ‘NVONVIQ] GNV AMVNAG NAAMLAG ANHOS NIVINAOT The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 59 It is almost impossible, so Connor told us, to make these people understand why children should go to school, or what a school is, or is for, anyway. How-’ ever, a beginning has been made. They all have a dose of ‘‘the three Rs’’; the boys are taught, besides, carpentry, gardening, and rope-making, and the girls sewing, weaving, and thread-making from cotton grown by the boys on the spot. They ought to show some skill in all these arts; for the native rice-basket is a handsome, strong affair, square of cross-section, with sides flaring out, and about three feet high, and some of their weapons show great manual skill. The garden was on show the next morning, display- ing beans, tomatoes, cotton, perhaps other things that I failed to recognize or have forgotten, any- way, a sufficient garden. There is besides an ex- change here for the sale of native wares. One of our party had ridden a white pony, and was much amused, as were all of us, to receive an offer for his tail! There is nothing else the Ilongots hold in higher estimation than white horse-hair, and here was a pony with a tail full of it! But the offer was refused; the idea of cutting off the tail was not to be entertained for one moment. Certainly, he might keep its tail: what they wanted was the hair. Would he sell the hair? No; that was only a little less bad than to sell the tail itself. 60 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. On our way back to the shack in which some of us were to sleep (the school-house it was) we no- ‘ticed an admiring crowd standing around the pony, tethered under the house, and all unconscious of the admiration he was exciting, most rudely presenting his hind-quarters to his admirers. But that was not his intention; the crowd—half women, by the way—wanted to be as close to the tail as possible. We left them gesticulating and pointing and com- menting, much as our own women might while looking at crown jewels, but not so hopelessly; for the next morning, when we next saw the pony, nearly all the hair had been pulled out of his tail, except a few patches or tufts here or there, tougher than the rest, and serving now merely to show what the original dimensions must have been. While we were undressing in came a little maiden, who marched up to every one of us, shook hands, and said, ‘“‘Good evening, sir.’ We were pretty well undressed, but our lack of clothes looked per- fectly natural to her, perhaps inspired her with con- fidence. She said her name was Banda, that she was thirteen, but of this she could not know, as all these children had had ages assigned to them when they entered the school; after greeting us all, and airing her slight stock of English, she withdrew as properly as she had entered. A trifling incident, The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 61 perhaps not worth recording, but in reality sig- nificant, for it marked confidence, especially as she had come in of her own accord. We all agreed that she was very pretty. CHAPTER VIII. Appearance of the Hongots.—Dress.—Issue of beads and cloth.— Warrior dance.—School work.—Absence of old women from meeting. The next morning we turned out early, and got our first real ‘“‘look-see.’’ Campote is completely surrounded by mountains, the hogback dropping off into the valley below us. About four or five hundred people had assembled, men, women, and children. As a rule, they were small and well built, but not so well built as the tribes farther north. The men were fully armed with spears, bows and arrows, Shields, and head-knives; gee-strings apart, they were naked. Some of them wore on the head the scarlet beak of the hornbill; these had taken heads. Quite a number, both men and women, had a small cross-like pattern tattooed on the forehead; the sig- nificance of this I did not learn. The shield is in one piece, in longitudinal cross-section like a very wide flat V open toward the bearer, the top termi- nating in a piece rising between two scoops, one on each side of the median line. The women had on short skirts and little jackets (like what, I am told, we call bolero jackets), the bosom being bare. 62 “HOVTIIA OVOONAT ‘VEaVNY IFUGAO CoUPLE WITH ALL THE ADORNMENTS OF A WEDDING CEREMONY. The necklace of the woman is valued at 5co pesos; its intrinsic value is not over 10 pesos. 64 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 65 Around the waist they wore bands of brass wire or of bamboo stained red and wound around with fine brass wire. These bamboo bands were pretty and artistic. You saw the children as they happened to be; the only thing to note about them being that they were quite bright-looking. What the men lacked in clothes they made up in their hair, for they wore it long and some of them had it done up in the most absolute Psyche knots. Such earrings as we Saw were worn in the upper cartilage of the ear. It may be remarked, too, that the women had a contented and satisfied air, as though sure of their power and position; we found this to be the case generally throughout the Mountain Country. The purpose of the visit being to cultivate pleasant relations with and receive the confidence of these shy people, the real business of the day was soon opened. Mr. Worcester took his place in the shade of his shack, and proceeded to the distribu- tion of red calico, beads, combs, mirrors, and other small stuff, the people coming up by rancherias (set- tlements or villages); none of the highlanders seem to have any conception of tribal organization, a con- dition no doubt due to the absence of communica- tions. A cabecilla, or head man, would receive two meters, his wife one, and others smaller meas- ures. This sort of thing was carefully studied out, 66 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. so far as rank was concerned, for it would never do to give a common person even approximately as much as a cabectilla. One rancheria would take all red beads, another white, another blue, and so on. Not once did I see a trace of greediness or even eagerness, though interest was marked. The whole thing was conducted in the most orderly fashion, the various rancherias awaiting their turn with ex- emplary patience.* The issue over, dancing began. In this only men and boys took part, to the music of small rude fiddles, tuned in fifths,t played by the men, and of a queer instrument consisting of two or three joints of bamboo with strings stretched over bridges, beaten with little sticks by the women. The fiddles must be of European origin. The orchestra, seven or eight all told, sat in the shade, surrounded by an admiring crowd. Among them was a damsel hold- ing a civilized umbrella over her head, whereof the stick and the rib-points were coquettishly decorated with white horse-hair tied in little brushes, doubt- less furnished by our white pony. The dancing at once fixed our attention. Two *On one of his first expeditions elsewhere, however, when the women realized that they were really to receive gifts of beads, etc., they rushed Mr. Worcester and his assistants, upsetting them all in their eagerness to get at the stuff. tSo Strong said, himself an accomplished violinist. [‘worsstudsadg yoi9ads Kq fZ1O1 14 814k do) ‘JQ-q ‘uojsurysv yy ‘aurzvsvpy 214dvas0a4) JDUOYDAT WoOdT| ‘HONOD ISHY OVONAT uO ‘IGIHV], AN ILONGoT Man, SHOWING TypicaL DRESS AND ORNAMENTS. THE HornpBILL Heap-Dress Is Conspicuous. [From National Geographic Magazine, Washington. D. C. Copyright 1912; by special permission.] ta r - | beet © any ln ga ; rs é var Ete ae tor a = *. [7x9] ay] JO 99 asvd uo pauoyuam joy, Aof pajnjysqns st uoynysnyr sry ft ‘uorssudad yorsads kq fz161 14814kdo7 ‘Od ‘uojsurysvyy ‘aurisosopy 214dvs30a5 JDUOYDAT WodZ | ‘ONIONVG SLODNO'I The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 67 or three men, though usually only two, took posi- tion on the little terreplein below the shack, and began a slow movement, taking very short, formal, staccato steps in a circle against the sun. Keeping back to back and side to side, they maintained the whole body in a tense, rigid posture with the chest out, head up and thrown back, abdomen drawn in, right hand straight out, the left also, holding a shield, eyes glazed and fixed, knees bent forward. Between the steps, the dancers would stand in this strained, tense position, then move forward a few ' inches, and so on around the circle. After a little of this business, for that is just what it was, the next part came on, a simulation of fighting: and, as everything before was as stiff, strained, and rigid as it was possible to be, so now everything was light, graceful, agile, and quick; leaps forward and back, leaps sideways, the two combatants maneu- vering, as it were, one around the other, for posi- tion. It was hard to realize that human motions could be so graceful, light and easy. Then head- knives were drawn, and cuts right, and cuts left, cuts at every part of the body from the head to the ankles, were added to the motion; the man on the defensive for the moment making suitable parries with his shield. 3 68 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. The dance completed, the dancers would ad- vance and face Mr. Worcester, put their heels to- gether in true military fashion, hold their arms out right and left, and make a slight inclination of the head, a sort of salute, in fact, to the one they re- garded as the principal personage of the party. We saw much dancing later on in our trip, but none that equalled this in intensity and character, apart from its being of. a totally different kind. Heiser managed, with some difficulty, to take a photograph of the tense phase of one of the dances; it gives a better idea of the phase than my imperfect description. The dancing was followed by archery, the tar- get being a small banana stem at some thirty paces. This calls for no especial comment, except that many hits were made, and many of the misses. would have hit a man. More interesting was an ambush they laid for us, to show how they attacked. While collecting for it, to our astonishment the en- tire party suddenly ran in all directions at top speed and hid behind whatever offered. On their return, in four or five minutes, they explained that a spirit had suddenly appeared among them, and that they had had to run. On our asking how they knew a spirit had turned up, they asked if we had not noticed leaves and grass flying in a ‘NVONVIDT ‘SSHANLIIG ONINV], WHHAIVANOLOHA ONIHOLVA, NAACTIHD OVONT 69 ‘£EP-0} I[qIssodull aq P[NoM 3YSIS BV YONG ‘gjod & Japun papuodsns ‘pyarys WMO Sty UO [BLN 0} poles Sulog ‘MOIMUVA, OVONAT AO AGO SSH’ lava 70 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 71 spiral. As a matter of fact, some of us had, a very small and very gentle whirlwind having formed for a second or two. ‘They had seen it, too, and that was the spirit. It was now mid-day; we had tiffin, and began preparations for our departure. The various arms, shields, and other things we had bought were col- lected to be cargadoed back to Pangasinan. Among them, alas! were not two beautiful head-knives, which their wearers had absolutely declined to part with on any terms whatever. They resisted the Governor-General even. I give a photograph here of a knife and scabbard that Connor sent me on later. It is a handsome one, but not as handsome as those two jewels! Our last performance was to look at the garden and to see the school at work, making thread and rope, weaving mats, and so on. I take it that this school was really the significant thing at Campote, apart from the significance of the occasion itself. We spent but little time over it, however, our in- terest in the arts of war having left us only a few minutes for those of peace. Nevertheless, here is a beginning that will bear fruit, and in the mean- time Connor rides alone and in safety among these wild people, which proves a good many things, when you select the right man to do your hard work. 72 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. Mr. Worcester, as we rode off, expressed the liveliest satisfaction with the meeting. These peo- ple, returning to their rancherias, he said, would talk for a year of their treatment at the hands of the Americans, of the gift of palay (rice) to four hundred people, for two days, to say nothing of two vacas (cows) and of other gifts. Next year, he hoped, half of them would come in; besides, the start made was good; the presence of so many women and children was a good sign, and equally good was the total absence of old women. For these are a source of trouble and mischief with their complaints of the degeneracy of the times. They address themselves particularly to the young men, accusing them of a lack of courage and of other parts, taunting them with the fact that the young women will have none of them, that in their day their young men brought in heads, etc. Thus it has happened, especially when any native drink was going about, that trouble has followed. It is the practice, therefore, of our Government when arranging these meetings to suggest that the old women be left at home, and if so left, it is a good indication. | CHAPTER IX. Return to civilization.—Reception at Bambang.—Aglipayanos and Protestants. The return to the main road from Campote was a great improvement over the advance. The sun had partly dried the trail, and his vertical rays enabled us to see about us a little, and realize what a tremendous phenomenon tropical vegetation can be. Some Philippine trees, for example, the nar- va, throw out buttresses. One we saw on this trail must have measured twenty feet across on the ground, from vertex to vertex of diametrically op- posite buttresses, the bole itself not being over two and one-half feet in diameter, and the buttresses Starting about fifteen feet above the ground. But the greatest difference to me personally was in my mount, Connor having lent me his pony, as ad- mirable as mine of the day before had been wretched. In spite of the fact that Connor had to stay behind at Campote and could catch us up later, this at- tention on his part was one of the most generous things that ever happened to me, for certainly the pony he got from me was the most irritating piece of horseflesh imaginable. I am glad publicly to 73 7A The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. give him my warmest thanks again! Mr. Worcester was well mounted, too; he rode this day at two hundred and thirty-five pounds, and his kit must have weighed some thirty more, yet his little beast carried him soundly to Bambang, our destination, about seventeen miles, twelve of them at a ‘‘square, unequivocal”’ trot, by no means an unusual example of the strength and endurance of some of these native ponies. In what seemed a very short time (but the trail was comparatively dry) we broke out of the forest, and again had our lovely valley below and in front of us. At the top we saw some giant fly-catchers, a bird of so powerful and erratic a flight that no one has so far, according to Mr. Worcester, succeeded in killing one of them. It may be mentioned here that we saw very few birds or any other animals on our journey. Shortly after beginning the descent, some of the party, impatient of the zig-zags, decided to go straight down, the temptation being a cool green stream at the foot of the mountain; half an hour afterward, on turn- ing a point, we could see them disporting them- selves in the waters, and at that distance looking very much like Diana and her nymphs in the usual pictures. Back in the main road, we stopped to rest at a point covered with a sensitive plant so delicate The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 75 that, on stepping on it anywhere, the nervous thrill, if that is what it is, would run three or four feet or more in all directions before dying down. From this point we turned north, our way taking us through a broad open valley, past rice-fields and between clumps of flowering guava bushes. As we neared Bambang, where we were to spend the night, we were as before met by the local notabilities on horseback; and breasting a rise, we saw our road down in the plain in which this town lies, lined on both sides by all the school-children of the place, dressed in their very best clothes, some of them American fashion with shoes and stockings and looking mighty uncomfort- able in consequence. Nearly everyone had a flag. Riding into the town, we found the plaza crowded with men and women, dressed mostly in white, and what with the flags, the church-bells clanging with all their might, the crowd, and the children trooping in, our cavalcade made a triumphant entrance. We dismounted at the presidente’s, where mus- catel and cocoanut milk were given us. A little muscatel goes a long way, but this is not true of the milk when one’s tongue is hanging out from riding in the sun, and there are only two or three cocoanuts. Filipinos apparently are not fond of 76 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. this drink, and we nearly always had to send out and get more. No sooner were we in the house than addresses began, one of these being in Ilokano. The native language of Bambang, however, is the Isanay, spoken elsewhere only at Aritao and Dipax, a dying tongue, doomed to early extinction. Bambang, like nearly all the other Nueva Viz- caya towns we had seen or were to see, shows signs of decadence. It has a good church and convento, a great plaza, and is surrounded by a fertile country, but something is missing. After dinner, I went over and called on the padre, one of the Belgians, whom we had met the day before. He informed me that Bambang had many Protestants, which he explained by the sharp rivalry between the Aglipayanos, or members of the ‘‘native’’ church, headed by the secessionist Aglipay, and the Catholics. To avoid the issues raised by this rivalry, many natives would: appear to have abandoned the errors of Rome (or of Aglipayanismo, as the case may be) for those of the Reformation. When I got back to the presidente’s, everybody had turned in, and the house was dark. However, I found a bed not occupied by anyone else, but of my bedding there was not a sign. So I stretched The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 77 out on the petate* of my bed, only to wake up later shivering with cold, which I tried to remedy by fishing around for cover in a pile of straw mats, from which I extracted what turned out in the morning to be a jusz table-cloth, through which you could have shot straws. It is altogether a mistake to imagine that one can not be cold in the tropics. *The straw mat covering the “‘split bottom”’ of the native bed. There is no other mattress, and the ‘‘split bottom”’ consti- tutes the springs. Once accustomed to it, the bed is cool and comfortable. CHAPTER X. Magat River.—Enthusiastic reception at Bayombong.—Speeches and reports.—Solano.—Ifugao ‘‘college yell.’ —Bagabag. The next day, April 20, we rode out at six, a splendid morning; Bubud felt the inspiration, too, . for he got on capitally. Wesoon reached the Magat River on the other side of which was Bayombong, the capital of the province and our first halt of the day. The Magat is another of those turbulent, un- certain rivers of the Archipelago; we were not sure as we neared it whether we could get over or not. When up, it carries waves in midstream six to seven feet from crest to trough. But we had no such ill- luck, and bancas soon came over for us, the horses swimming. While waiting for them we had a chance to admire the beautiful country; on one side tall spreading trees and broad savannahs, on the other the mountain presenting a bare scarp of red rock many hundreds of feet high; immediately in front the cool, green river, over all the brilliant sun, not yet too hot to prevent our thinking of other things. Once over, we had no occasion to complain of our reception! All the notabilities were present, of 78 IFUGAO WARRIOR STANDING NEAR His HOUSE. Showing three heads which he has taken from his enemies at Kiangan. The wattled side 79 wall is suali. Human skulls are no longer displayed in the Ifugao country. “NVONVIST LV ASNOP OVONAT IVOIdA J, 80 % The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 81 course, mounted, but in addition there were three bands, all playing different tunes at the same time, in different keys, and all fortissimo. No instrument was allowed to rest, the drums being especially vig- orous. One of the bands was that of the Constabu- lary, playing really well, and with magnificent in- difference to the other two. I am bound to say they returned it. We had the Constabulary troops, too, as escort, a well set-up, well-turned-out and soldierlike body. . What with the bands, the pigs, the dogs, the horses, the children, the people, it was altogether one of the most delightful confusions con- ceivable, not the least interesting feature being the happy unconsciousness of the people of the incon- gruity of the reception. However, we formed a column, the Constabulary at the head, with its band, and were played into Bayombong, with the other bands, children, dogs, etc., as a mighty rear guard. Our first business was to listen to reports and addresses. So we all went upstairs in the Govern- ment House, the presidencia; the Governor-General, Mr. Worcester, and the presidente took their seats on a dais, while the rest of us, with the local Amer- icans and some of the native inhabitants, formed the audience, and listened to a report read by the treasurer. This made a great impression on us, so 82 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. sensible and businesslike was it; not content with a statement, it went on to describe the affairs of the province, the possibilities of agriculture, and what could be accomplished if the people would turn to and work, and in particular it made no complaints. Apparently this report alarmed the presidente, for he left his seat on the platform as soon as he decently could, and delivered a speech intended to traverse the treasurer’s report. His concern was almost comic: the idea of saying to the Governor-General that a great deal could be done locally by work, when there was a central Government at Manila! Mr. Forbes, as usual, made in his turn a very sound speech, based on his ob- servation in the province, on its fertility, its possi- bilities,t he necessity of improving communications and of diversifying crops. I noticed here, as else- where in the province, the excellence of the Spanish used in speeches. As for the treasurer, we were informed that he had been taken in hand at an early age by the Americans and trained, so that in making his reports he had developed the ability to look upon the merits of the question in hand. But he must feel himself to be a unique person! We rested here in Bayombong through the heat of the day, part going to Governor Bryant’s house, the rest of us to that of Captain Browne, the local The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 83 Inspector of Constabulary. I havea grateful recol- lection of his hospitality, as well as of that of his brother officers, with whom we dined. Nor must I forget the Standard Oil Company. For had not Browne rigged up a shower, consisting of the Stand- ard five-gallon tin? A muchacho filled it with water and pulled it up over a pulley, and you got an ex- cellent shower from the holes punched in the bot- tom. In fact, the Standard five-gallon tin is as well known in the East as its contents, and is care- fully preserved and used. We had several oppor- tunities to bless its existence. Pleasant as was the nooning, it had to end: we mounted and rode on to Solano. On the way Bubud insisted on drinking from a dirty swamp by the roadside, although there was a limpid stream not fifty yards ahead which he could see as well as I. But there was nothing for it but the swamp; I accordingly let him have his way, only to find the bank slippery and the water deep, so that he went in up to his shoulders, with his hindquarters on the bank. While I was trying to pull him back, he got in his hindquarters, and then, in further answer to my efforts, sat down in the water! And such water! Thick, greasy, smelly! A carabao wallow it was. He now gave unmistakable evidence of an intention to lie down, when a friendly hand got 84 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. me up on the bank, whereupon Bubud, concluding he would get out too, emerged with a coat of muddy slime. This seemed to have no effect whatever on his spirits, for on entering Solano a few minutes later, to the sound of bells and bands, with banners fluttering in the breeze, he got into such a swivet that before I knew it he was at the head of the pro- cession, having worked himself forward and planted himself squarely in front of the Governor-General’s horse, where he caracoled and curvetted and pranced to his heart’s delight. As soon as we got out of the barrio, he was quite satisfied to take a more modest position, but occasions of ceremony seemed to de- prive him of all realization of his proper place in the world. The people of Solano made a great effort to have us stay the night, but 1t was impossible; we had to get on to Bagabag. Solano, by the way, is the commercial emporium of this end of the province, for there is not a single shop in Bayombong. So on we went, through a calm, dignified afternoon, the country as before impressing me with its open, smiling valleys, its broad fields, its air of expectant fertility, inviting one to come scratch its surface, if no more, in order to reap abundant harvests. In fact, it seemed to me that we were riding through typical farming land at home, instead of through a ‘SLIMIdS /ILAA AVMV SaAVOS *JSdJ JSOAICVY JONyT OL WILLVY HLIM AUVNVA SAGNNOY ONINVIT OVONYT 85 ‘NVONVIX ‘SOLINY 86 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 87 Malay valley under the tropic. And if anything more were needed to strengthen the illusion, it was a college yell, given by a gang of Ifugaos (the peo- ple we were now immediately on our way to visit) repairing a bridge we had to cross! They did it in style, and naturally had no cheer-leader; time was kept by beating on the floor of the bridge with tools. For this uttering of a shout of welcome or of other emotion in unison is a characteristic trait of the Ifugaos, like their using spoons, and can be likened to nothing else in the world but our American college yell. Our reception at Bagabag was much like all the others we had had: bands, arches, addresses, one in excellent English. But on this occasion, after listening to a speech telling how poor the people were, how bad the roads were, how much they needed Government help, etc., etc., Mr. Forbes squared off in his answer, and told them a few things, as that he had seen so far not a single lean, hungry- looking person, that the elements were kindly, that they could mend their own roads, and that he was tired of their everlasting complaint of poverty and hunger, when a little work would go a great way in this country toward bettering their material con- dition. This, of course, is just the kind of talk these people need, and the last some of them wish to hear. CHAP TE Reams: We enter the Mountain Province.—Payawan.—Kiangan, its posi- ; tion.—Anitos.—Speech of welcome by Ifugao chief.—Detach- ment of native Constabulary.—Visit of Ifugao chiefs to our quarters.— Dancing. We were now on the borders of the Mountain Province; literally one more river to cross, and we should turn our backs on Nueva Vizcaya. And with regret, for it is a beautiful smiling province, of fer- tile soil, of polite and hospitable people, of lovely mountains, limpid streams and triumphant forests. In Dampier’s quaint words, spoken of another prov- ince, but equally true of this one, “The Valleys are well moistned with pleasant Brooks, and small Riv- ers of delicate Water; and have Trees of divers sorts flourishing and green all the Year.’’* Its peo- ple lack energy, perhaps because they have no roads; it may be equally true that they lack roads because they have no energy. However this may be, the province can and some day will grow coffee, tobacco, rice, and cocoa to perfection; its savannahs will furnish pasturage for thousands of cattle, where now some one solitary carabao serves only to mark the solitude in which he stands. *Dampier’s ‘‘ Voyages,’”’ p. 319, Masefield’s edition. 838 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 89 We crossed the stream about seven in the morning, May 1, and opened out on an immense field, which we estimated at about thirty-five hun- dred acres, a whole plantation in a ring fence, and offering not the slightest suggestion of the tropics in its aspect. The ground now broke and we went on down to a bold stream so deep that those of us riding ponies got wet above the knees and were almost swept down by the current. The cogon grass in this river bottom was the tallest I ever saw, some clumps being well over twenty feet high. Then we began to climb till we reached another divide, across the stream at the foot of which was Payawan, our immediate objective. Payawan consists of two shacks and a name. Here we were to have had our first meeting with the clans of the Ifugao, but through some misunderstanding they took the place of meeting to be at Kiangan, some miles further on; so we all rested a while, and some of us took a swim in the little river we had just crossed, finding the water on first shock almost cold, but delightful be- yond belief. Cootes and I were quite satisfied with the pool we found near the shack, but Strong and the rest thought they saw a better one downstream, so they crawled in the water around a small cliff, reached their pool, and then had to walk a mile and a half through the cogon and in the sun to return, go The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. there being no getting back upstream. Now, if there is anything else hotter on the face of the earth than a walk through the cogon in the dry season with the sun shining vertically down, it has yet to be discovered. At Payawan we were met by Captain Jeff D. Gallman, P. C., Lieutenant-Governor of the Sub- province of Ifugao, accompanied by one of his chief- tains, who made a splendid picture in his barbaric finery. Erect, thin of flank and well-muscled, he had a bold, clear eye and a fearless look; around his neck he wore a complicated necklace of gold and other beads; each upper arm was Clasped by a boar’s tusk, from which stood out a plume of red horse-hair. His gee-string was decorated with a belt of white shells, the long free end hanging down in front, and he had his bolo, like the rest of his people, in a half-scabbard—that is, kept by two straps on a strip of wood, shaped like a scabbard. But all these were mere accessories; what distin- guished him was his free graceful carriage, the light- ness and ease of his motions, the frankness and openness of his countenance. Our rest over, we pushed on through a beau- tiful forest, unlike any other seen so fat in that it was open. The trail was excellent, and rose stead- ily, for we had to cross a sharp range before making 91 IruGAO CHIEF MAKING A SPEECH. ‘uUvSUeTy JO JOTI}SIC: 94} Jo UsWIpLoyy ay} puv ‘ovsnjy Jo surTAOId-qng Jo JOWUIaAO‘)-JULUIINV’] ‘VOUTAOIY UIvJUNOJT IY} JO JOUIVAOL JY} ‘IOLO}JUT VY} Jo ArejIVIG VY} WIIMJoq VUIIOJUO) *SsOVONT 92 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 93 Kiangan. I shall make no attempt to describe this exquisite afternoon: but there was a breeze, the forest tempered the sun’s rays a good part of the time; and, as we rose, range after range, peak on peak opened on our view, valley after valley spread out under our feet until I wearied of admiring. The others had gone over the trail before, and looked on nature with a more matter-of-fact eye. At the top of the range I noticed an outcrop of fossil coral. Bubud distinguished himself to-day. Gallman, who was trotting immediately in front (and who ought to know his own trails!), called “Ware hole!’’ just as Bubud put one of his forefeet in it, pitched forward, and threw me over his head, thus establishing a complete breach of continuity between us. However, as long as the thing had to | happen, it was a good place to select, for the trail was four feet wide here, and, in case of going over the side, the drop was only eighty or ninety feet, with bushes conveniently arranged to catch hold of on the way down. This was Bubud’s solitary mis- hap, and it was not his fault. Past the divide, the trail became a road over which one might have marched a field battery, so broad and firm and good was it: we were nearing Kiangan. Presently we turned a low spur to the left, and the Ifugao town burst upon our view. It 94 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. was the headquarters of a Spanish Comandancia in the old days, and here Padre Juan Villaverde lived and worked, seeking to convert the people, and to teach them to grow coffee and to plant European _ vegetables. The mission, however came to naught, leaving behind no trace visible to the casual trav- eller, save a few lone cabbages: the garrison main- tained here was massacred to a man, the native who surprised and cut down the sentry being pointed out to us the next day. Kiangan was celebrated in Spanish times, and even more recently, as the home of some of the most desperate head-hunters of the Archipelago. But, thanks to Gallman, head-hunting in the Ifugao country is now a thing of the past. The town stands on the top of a bastion-like terrace, thrust avalanche-wise and immense between its pinnacled mountain walls; the site is not only of great beauty, but of great natural strength, like nearly all the other considerable settlements we saw on this journey. The two mountain walls approach somewhat like the branches of the letter V, having between them, near their intersection, as it were, the natural bastion mentioned rising from the bed of the Ibilao!,River, hundreds of feet below, and some thousands of yards distant. The whole po- sition is on a large generous scale; it would have appealed to the ancient Greeks. And so, of course, The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 95 we yet had some distance to go, and now made our way through rice-paddies, echeloned on the flanks of the spurs that came down to meet us. These rice-terraces (sementeras), the first I had seen, at once excited my interest, to the scorn of Pack, who bade me wait until we had come upon the real thing: these were nothing. It turned out he was entirely right; but I thought them remarkable, and anyway they were most refreshing and cooling to look at, after our long hot ride. The sound of run- ning waters, the sight of the little runlets bubbling away for dear life, of the tall rice swaying to the breeze, the acropolis before us with its clumps of waving bamboos, of nodding bananas, and the soft afternoon light over all, the combination made a picture that will live in my recollection. The im- pression immediately formed was that of a scene of quiet peace and beauty, more or less rudely shocked the following day. As we drew nearer and nearer we were welcomed by arches of bam- boo decorated with native flowers and plants, and guarded by life-size anitos* of both sexes in *According to De Morga (p. 196, Retana’s edition), the anito was a representation of the devil under horrible and frightful forms, to which fruits and food and perfumes were offered. Each house had and ‘‘made”’ (or performed) its anitos, there being no temples, without ceremony or any special solemnity. ‘‘ This word,’ says Retana, “‘is ordinarily interpreted ‘idol,’ although it has other mean- ings. There were anitos of the mountains, of the fields, of the sea. 96 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. puris naturalibus, cut out of the tree fern, but with no connotation whatever of indecency. For these Statues are either an innocent expression of nature, or, what seems more likely, an expression of Nature or phallic worship. We had now got up to the parade of the cuartel (quarters or barracks) and were greeted by shouts from the people gathered to welcome us. The chief who had met us at Payawan, and who, on foot, had beaten us into Kiangan, appeared in all his bravery and with a prolonged *‘ Who-o-o-0-e-e!’’ commanded silence. He then mounted a bamboo stand some twenty feet high, with a platform on top, and made us a speech! Yes, a regular speech, with gestures, intonations, and all the rest of it. For these Ifugaos are born orators, and love to show their skill. Ac- cordingly, thanks to Mr. Worcester’s appreciation, orators’ tribunes have been put up at points like The soul of an ancestor, according to some, became embodied as a new anito, hence the expression, ‘to make anitos.’ Even living beings, notably the crocodile, were regarded as anitos and worshiped. The anito-figura, generally shortened to antto, . . ‘was usually a figurine of wood, though sometimes of gold.” ”” (Glossary to his edition of De Morga, pp. 486-487.) ‘The anito of the Philippines is essentially a protecting spirit.” (F. Jagor, ‘‘ Travels in the Philippines,’ p. 298, English translation, London, Chapman & Hall, 1875; originally published in Berlin, 1873, ‘Reisen in den Philippinen,’’ Weidmannsche Buchhandlung.) “The religion of the islands, what may be called the true religion of Filipinos, consisted of the worship of the anitos. These were not gods, but the souls of departed ancestors, and each family worshipped its own, in order to obtain their favorable influence.”’ (Pardo de Tavera, ‘“‘Resefia Hist6érica de Filipinas,’’ Manila, 1906.) The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 97 Kiangan; it is strange that the Ifugaos had never thought of it themselves. This tribune, by the way, was ornamented with tufts of leaves and grasses at the corners. When the speaker had done, he clapped his hands over his head, and all the people followed suit. Later on Gallman, who speaks Ifugao like a native, interpreted for us. The speaker told his people that a great honor had been done them by this visit of the “‘Commission,’’ and that, besides, the great apo* of all had come, too. His arrival could not fail to be of good luck for them, as it meant more rice, more chickens, more pigs, more babies, more good in all ways than they ever had had before. As other speeches began to threaten, on a hasty intimation from Mr. Forbes we moved on to our quarters, preceded by the escort of Con- stabulary. This detachment, composed entirely of Ifugaos, would have delighted any soldier. They certainly excited my admiration by the precision of their movements, their set-up, and their general appear- ance. A Prussian Guardsman could not have been *A po means “lord, master.’’ Inthe mountains every American is called apo. ‘“‘Sir’”’ in Tagalo is po, and the highest mountain of the Archipelago is named Apo. The native word for fire in these parts is something like apo. To distinguish Mr. Forbes from other apos, he was called apo apo in communicating with the natives. 98 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. more erect. There are five companies of Constab- ulary in the Mountain Province, each serving in the part of the country from which recruited, and each retaining in its uniform the colors and such other native features as could be turned to account. Thus the only ‘civilized,’ so to say, elements are the forage cap and khaki jacket worn directly over the skin; otherwise the legs, feet, and body are bare; the local gee-string is worn, with the free end hanging down in front. Here at Kiangan each man has below the knee the native brass leglet, and on the left hip the bultong, or native bag, a sporran, indeed, showing the local influence in its blue and white stripes. Thus accoutered, the first impression formed was that these troops were actually high- landers; on reflection, this impression is correct, for they are highlanders in every sense of the word. I obtained permission to inspect the detachment after the honors were over, and found their equip- ment and uniforms in admirable condition. Of their discipline, everyone spoke in the highest terms; in- deed, we had next day, as will soon appear, an ex- ample of this quality. Their loyalty to the Gov- ernment is unquestioned. These mountaineers are all, as might be expected, hardy, strong, able-bodied, and active; in fact, the physical qualities of these mountain people are remarkable. But at Kiangan, The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 99 as elsewhere, it was noticeable that discipline, reg- ular habits, regular food, had improved the natur- ally good physical qualities of the people. The Con- stabulary appeared to me to be physically better than the tribe from which they were drawn. I no- . ticed, too, that after protracted wearing of the khaki the skin of the body was several shades lighter than that of the legs. We now entered our quarters, being those of Lieutenant Meimban, the native officer in command. Here, too, we met Mr. Barton, the local school super- intendent. His predecessor had had to be relieved, - because one day, as he was going up the trail, an Ifugao threw a spear “into” him, as they say in the mountains, and he consequently got a sort of distaste for the place, although it was clearly established in the investigation that followed, and carefully explained to him, that it was all a mis- take, and that the spear had been intended for somebody else. Mr. Barton is doing a useful work here in devoting his spare time and energy to a study of the Ifugao religion with its myths and mythology. He told me that he had so far defined seven hundred different spirits and was not sure that he had got to the end of them. The publication of Mr. Barton’s research is awaited with some avid- ity by the Americans living in the Province, as en- 100 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. abling them to have a better control of the people through their religious beliefs. We had not long been seated in our quarters before a deputation of chiefs with their gansas and a large number of bubud* jars entered, and offered us bubud to drink. Very soon our visitors be- gan to dance for us to the sound of the gansa, their dance being different from that we had seen a few days before at Campote. As, however, the next day was one dance from morning to night,. I shall not spend any more time upon this affair, except to say that, turn about being fair play, Cootes got up and gave such a repre- sentation as he was able of a pas seul. When he had done, our visitors started anew, and the gansas proving irresistible, Cootes and I joined in. The steps, poise of body, motion of the arms and hands are so marked and peculiar that a little ob- servation and practice enabled us in a short time to produce at least a fair imitation; indeed, so suc- cessful were our efforts that we were informed we should be invited to dance on the morrow before the multitudes! This brought us up standing, and it was time anyway. So our chieftains took their leave, their bubud jars remaining in our charge. *Now frequently called ub-ub, 1. e., “spring,” in the Ifugao country; a change of name due to Gallman. IruGAO HEAD-HUNTER FULL-DRESS. Showing rain-coat, so-called head-basket, bolo, bultong, and waist-belt. 101 ‘NVONVIY, “SONVG UAINOH-avay ‘sasiazyT &q ydvasojoyg 102 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 103 These jars are worth more than a passing mention: the oldest ones come from China, and are held in such high esteem by the Ifugaos that they will part with them for neither love nor money. According to the experts, some of them are examples of the earli- est known forms of Chinese porcelain, and are most highly prized by collectors and museums.* We put up our mosquito-bars this night, the only time on the trip, but I think without any necessity. So far we had not seen, heard or felt a single fly or mosquito, and were to see none until we struck civilization once more in the Cagayan Valley. | *See De Morga, ‘‘Sucesos,” etc., p. 184, Retana’s edition, and Retana’s note on the passage; see also Jagor, ‘‘’Travels,’’ etc., Pp. 162 et seq. CHARI Rec l: Day opens badly.—Ifugao houses.—The people assemble.—Danc- ing. — Speeches. — White paper streamers. — Head-hunter dance.—Cafiao. Needless to say we were up betimes the next morning, May 2d, for the clans were to gather, and the day would hardly be long enough for all it was to hold. The day began ominously. As Kiangan is a sort of headquarters, it has a guard-house for the service of short imprisonments, a post-and-rail affair made of bamboo under the cuartel. For while our administration is kindly, these mountaineers from the first have had to learn, if not to feel as yet, that they must be punished if guilty of infringing such laws and discipline as have so far been found applicable. Accordingly, our guard-house held two men, sentenced for twenty days, for having threat- ened the life of one of their head men. Short as was the sentence, these two men had nevertheless dug a passage in the earthen floor of their quarters, and had just the night before opened the outer end of it, but not enough to admit the passage of a human body. A private of Constabulary, passing by this morning, stooped to examine this hole new 104 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 105 to him, when one of the prisoners threw a spear at him, made of a stalk of runo,* the head being a small strip of iron which he had kept concealed in his gee-string. So true was his aim that, although he had to throw his improvised spear between the rails, he nevertheless struck the private in the neck, cutting his jugular vein, so that in five minutes he was dead. The pen was now entered for the purpose of shackling the criminal, when he announced that he would kill any white man that laid hands on him. Upon Lieutenant Meimban of the Constabulary ad- vancing, both of the prisoners rushed him. In the mellay that followed the murderer was shot and killed and his companion badly beaten up; Strong later had to put seventeen stitches in one scalp wound alone. Although the rancheria from which the murdered private came was two hours off, so that it usually took four hours to send a message and get an answer, yet an hour and a half after the man died a runner came in to ask for his body so it could be suitably buried. Altogether, this double killing damped our spirits considerably; for one thing, there was no telling how it would be received, particularly if there should be any ex- cessive drinking of bubud; there were very few of —_—— *Runo is a stiff reed grass growing to several feet, the mountain cousin of the cogon of the plains. / 106 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. us, mostly unarmed, and the Ifugaos were coming in hundreds at a time, so that long before the fore- noon was well under way several thousands had collected. However, on moving out, we could not find that the cheerfulness of the people had been in the least disturbed. Before beginning the business of the day we walked about the village and examined one or two houses. These are all of one room, entered by a ladder drawn up at night, and set up on stout posts seven or eight feet high; the roof is thatched, and the walls, made of wattle (sualz), flare out from the base deter- mined by the tops of the posts. In cutting the posts down to suitable size (say 10 inches in diameter), a flange, or collar, is left near the top to keep rats out; chicken-coops hang around, and formerly human skulls, too, were set about. But the Ifugaos, thanks to Gallman, as already said, have abandoned head- hunting, and the skulls in hand, if kept at all, are now hidden inside their owner’s houses, their places being taken by carabao heads and horns. One house had a tahtbi, or rest-couch; only rich people can own these, cut out as they are of a single log, in longitudinal cross-section like an inverted and very flat V with suitable head- and foot-supports. The notable who wishes to own one of these luxurious couches gets his friends to cut down the tree (which ‘nea}eld 94} uO Sutivadde Ayied oy, ‘NVONVIY “AONVC WHLNOH-avapy ‘dasvazT Sa eee 4% SN yh Ze Yi ‘ | 4°, | ci GA w Drawn by Glassford, SPIRAL CAMOTE PATCH. The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 217 dismount, but the American horses were all un- saddled, the inch or two so gained being important in passing along. The black and white strata show- ing-on the path, there was an opportunity to exam- ine them; the black layers were so soft and friable that they could be gouged out with ease with the hand, and appeared to be vegetable, while the white stripes were most probably limestone. This bit of the trail is regarded as dangerous, because the rock overhead is continually breaking loose and tum- bling down; for this reason it was unsafe to try to dislodge pieces for later examination. One of our cargadores, as it was, fell over, his pack getting knocked in, while he himself escaped with a bruise or two. It was a bad place! At the end of it a host of Kalingas acclaimed us, as picturesque as the warriors we had met at the stream, and took over the pack. Leaving the river, we began what ap- peared to be an interminable climb to Lubuagan. Up ran the trail, disappearing far ahead above us, behind the shoulder of the ridge; and we would all be hoping (those of us to whom the country was new) that Lubuagan would be just around the turn, only to find we had the same sort of climb to an- other shoulder; the fact being that the ridge here thrust itself out in rising echeloned spurs, each one of which had to be turned, so that we began to 218 The Head Hunters of Northern Lugon. doubt if there was such a place as the capital of the Kalinga province. In truth, we had been up since 3:30 and were nearly spent from heat and thirst. But at last we made the final turn, and entered upon a narrow green valley, with a bold, clear stream rushing over and between the rocks that filled its bed. Broad-leafed plants nodded a welcome from the waters, as we rode through the grateful shadow of the overarching trees, and shin- ing pools smiled upon us. We crossed a bridge, came down a bit, and, breaking through the fringe of trees and shrubs, saw before us the place-of-arms of Lubuagan. MapAaLLAM, KALINGA HEADMAN, LUBUAGAN. 219 Two HEADMEN OF LUBUAGAN. Showing scarlet hibiscus and feather head-dresses. 220 CHAPTER XXII. Splendid appearance of the Kalingas.—Dancing.—Lubuagan.—Ba- st.—Councils.—Bustles and braids.—Jewels and weapons.— Excellent houses. The sight that greeted us was stirring, suggest- ing to the piously minded Bishop Heber’s unmatched lines: ‘““A noble army, men and boys, The matron and the maid.”’ There must have been thousands of people, as many women as men, and almost as many children as women, all of whom set up a mighty shout as our little column emerged. But what especially and immediately caught the eye was the brilliancy of the scene. For, whereas the people so far encoun- tered had impressed us by the sobriety of color dis- played, these Kalingas blazed out upon us in the most vivid reds and yellows. Many of them, women as well as men, had on tight-fitting Moro jackets of red and yellow stripes; but whatever it was—skirt, jacket, or gee-string—only one pattern showed itself, the alternation of red and yellow, well brought out by the clear brown of the skin. As though this 221 222 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. were not enough, some men had adorned their abun- dant black hair with scarlet hibiscus flowers, and all, or nearly all, wore plumes of feathers, one over each ear. Hach rancheria has its distinctive plume; as, red with black tips, black with red, all red, white with black, and so on, some with notched and others with natural edges. Many men had axes on their hips. The whole effect was startling, and all the more that these people, erect, sinewy, of excel- lent build like their comrades farther south, were perceptibly taller, men five feet ten inches tall not being uncommon. Add to this a stateliness of walk and carriage, combined with a natural, wholly un- conscious ease and grace of motion, and it is easy to imagine the fine impression made upon us by our first look upon these assembled people. It is not too much to say that the whole sight was splendid; but, more than this, under the surface of things, it was easy to catch at once the possibility of a real development by these people under any sort of opportunity whatever. We had hardly dismounted before the dancing began, in general against the sun, as elsewhere. Each rancheria of the many present had its dancers, and all made a display. One event, if the sporting term be permissible, seemed to be a sort of “‘follow- my-leader’’; the motions, however, being confined The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 223 to the circle, across which the file would go from time to time, thus differing from any other dance seen. In some cases, the step was bold and lively; in others, slow and stately, with arms outstretched. The gansa music was not nearly so well marked as that of the Ifugaos; it seemed to lack definition (an opinion advanced with some hesitation, and which a professional musician might not agree with). Sometimes women only appeared; in fact, up here the sexes did not mix in the dance. If we had re- mained longer in this part of the country, perhaps the differences and characteristics of this expression of native genius would have stood out more clearly; but in our short time, with so much dancing going on, impressions necessarily overlapped. And, in any case, shortly after our arrival, night fell, putting an end to the show, and we betook ourselves to our quarters; Captain Harris, of the local Constabu- lary forces, most kindly receiving some of us in his house. Kalinga is neither a race nor a tribe name, but a word meaning “‘enemy’’ or “‘outlaw,’’ as though the hand of the people that bear it had been against everybody’s else. These people have been great head-hunters, and have not yet entirely abandoned the practice, though it is steadily diminishing. It should be recollected, however, that it is only with- 224 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. in the last three or four years that we have had any relations with them, Mr. Worcester’s first visit to Lubuagan having occurred in 1907. On this oc- casion, immediately on arriving, he was shut up with his party in a house; and all night a lively debate went on outside as to whether the next morning his head should be taken or not, his native inter- preter informing him of the progress of opinion as the night wore on. In some respects these Kalingas differed from the tribes already visited. Their superior height has already been noted. It may be noted further that they are sloe-eyed, and their eyes are wide apart. It is said that they have an infusion of Moro blood, brought in, many years ago, by exiles from Moroland turned loose on the north coast of Luzon by the Spaniards, with the expectation that the local tribes would kill them; instead, they inter- married. Among themselves they call their import- ant men dato, a Moro title, and their Moro dress has already been mentioned. ‘They will not marry outside of their own blood, and their women, SO we were told, would not look at a white man. Lubuagan itself is extremely well situated on a gigantic terrace-like slope, as though, as at Kiangan, an avalanche of earth had burst through the rim of encompassing mountains. Here live the Governor of The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 225 the province and the inspector of Constabulary with a detachment; their houses, with the cuartel and public offices, are disposed around a sort of parade, divided into an upper and a lower terrace. Agui- naldo marched through the place during his flight, and left behind seventeen of his men, sick and wounded. He had no sooner gone than these were all taken out and beheaded. The native town lies above and just back of the parade, with its houses running well up on the slopes. ‘These are, every- where possible, terraced for rice, and so successfully that two crops are made every year, as against only one at Bontok and elsewhere. It follows that the Kalingas have more to eat than their relatives to the south, and that is perhaps one reason of their greater stature. The morning of the r2th, our one full day at Lubuagan, broke clear, bright, and hot, and so the day remained. Events during the next few hours had no particular axis. We looked on mostly, though, of course, here as elsewhere, business there was to be dispatched. The upper terrace was the scene of crowded activity, being packed with people from sunrise to sunset. Dancing went on the whole day; the sound of the gansa never ceased. A particu- larly interesting dance was that of a number of little girls, eight or ten years of age, who went 226 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. through their steps with the greatest seriousness and dignity, a very pretty sight. In yet another the performers, nine all told, grown men, attracted attention from the fact that the handles of their gansas were human lower jaws, apparently new, in the teeth of two of which gold fillings glistened. The Ifugaos, who, it will be recollected, had ac- companied us from Banawe, also danced, their steps, motions, and music forming a sharp contrast. ‘This dance over, Comhit could not restrain himself, but made a speech, in which he declared that ‘‘ These people up here, the Kalingas, are very good people indeed, but not so good as the Ifugaos.’’ Fortun- ately, only his own people understood him. He had noticed on the way that the people we passed of- fered nothing to drink to the traveller, and had commented freely to Gallman on this lack of hos- pitality, so different from his country’s habits. We had nothing to complain of, however, on this score at Lubuagan, for basi circulated freely the whole day, being passed along sometimes in a tin cup, at others in a bamboo; everybody drank out of one and the same vessel. On the whole, this basz was poor stuff, not nearly so good as bubud. Harris told me after the day was over, and we had taken innumerable tastes, at least, of the brew (for one must drink when it.is passed), that in preparing The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. a27 basi a dog’s heart,* cut up into bits, is added to the fermenting liquid to give it body. One man amused us by going around with a bamboo six inches or more in diameter and at least eight feet in length over his shoulder, and obligingly stopping to let his friends bend down the mouth and help themselves— a ‘“‘long”’ drink if there ever was one! But it was not all bas: and dancing: councils were held, the visiting rancherias profiting by the opportunity of enforced peace to clear up issues. At these councils, which came off in the open, on the parade, the people of the rancherias interested would sit on the ground in a circle, maintaining absolute silence, while their spokesmen, a head man from each, walked around in the circle. The man who had the floor, so to say, would remain behind and address his adversary in the debate, who mean- time kept on walking around with his back turned squarely on the speaker. As soon as the argument in hand had been made, both would countermarch, and the listener would now become the speaker. A great part of the debate was taken up on both *De La Gironiére, in his ‘‘Aventures d’un Gentilhomme Breton aux Iles Philippines,’’ describes (Chapter V.) a feast, at which he had, while on a visit to the Tinguianes, to drink human brains mixed with basi. Whatever De La Gironiére says must be received with considerable caution; but Pickering, a prosac andi matter-of-fact Britisher, speaking of the Formosan savages, says that ‘‘they mixed the brains of their enemies with wine.” (“‘Pi- oneering in Formosa,”’ p. 153.) 228 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. sides by a recital of the crimes and misdemeanors of which the other party had been guilty. In one of these councils, one debater—wearing civilized dress, by the way—suddenly broke through the circle and disappeared, much to our astonishment, until it was explained that his opponent in the de- bate had charged him with having recently poisoned six persons; as this was perilously near the truth, the criminal simply ran away. The accuser was a fine-looking man, splendidly dressed, of a haughty countenance, displaying the greatest contempt for all the arguments addressed to him, his impatience being marked by “ Hds!’’ accompanied by stamping on the ground the while and striking it with the butt of his spear. This chief was in confinement at Lubuagan, but, to save his face, Governor Hale had enlarged him during our stay. Naturally there was an opportunity during the day of observing many things in some detail. Who shall say, for example, that the Kalingas are not civilized? The women and girls all wear bustles, a continuous affair made of bejuco, an endless roll, . in short, of varying radius, that over the small of the back being considerably the greatest. The top of the skirt is tucked in all round, instead of being directly on the skin, as farther south. In further proof of the local civilization, the women wear false [‘womsstmaag poroads kq {T1OI qys1ukdoy “Dg ‘uUopsulysoyy ‘auisvsopy 214448094) jDUOYDAT WOdy | ‘UsUI aSoq} JO JUSUIdUJaADp Ie[NIsnu pipus[ds sy} pue ssoip-peoy 9djON ‘NVOVOEN’T LV SYOINAVM VONTIVY 229 ‘NVOVNAN’T LV IYO WALLAG AHL JO ASNOY VONVIVY “IVOIMdAL, 230 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 235 hair. One matron was obliging enough to undo her coiffure for our benefit, and held out by its end, for our admiring inspection, a mighty wisp nearly three feet long. She put it back on for us after the manner, as I have since been informed, of a coronet braid. The men gave fewer evidences of civilization, unless smoking cigars in holders will serve. However, one man brought up his wife and children and regularly introduced them to us, the woman doing her part with great coolness, while the children gave every sign of terror. This incident struck me as being very unusual. Everyone had on at least one necklace, and some three or four neck- laces, of dog-teeth, of agate beads (these being im- mensely prized, agate not being native to the Phil- _ippines), or of anything else the form, color, and hardness of which could make it answer for pur- poses of ornament. One young woman had on sleigh-bells, the tinkle of which we heard before we saw its source, an incongruous sound in those parts. These bells must have been brought down by Chi- nese trading from the plains of Manchuria. Two or three young men displayed what looked like lapis lazuli around their necks, but what turned out at closer quarters to be pieces of a blue china dinner- plate. They had cut out the white interior and then divided the rim radially, the jewels thus formed 232 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. being all of the same size and shape, with perfectly smooth edges. Here, too, were the same pill-box hats as those seen at Bontok, some elaborately beaded and costing from one to five carabaos apiece; in one case the lid of a tomato tin had been pressed into service as a hat. But the finest thing of all was the head-ax, a beautiful and cruel-looking weap- on, the head having on one side an edge curving back toward the shaft, and on the other a point. To keep the weapon from slipping out of the hand, a stud is left in the hard wood shaft, about two- thirds of the way from the head, the shaft itself being protected by a steel sheathing half way down; the remainder being ornamented with decorative brass plates and strips, and the end shod in a ferrule of silver. The top of the ax is not straight, but curved, both edge and point taking, as it were, their origin in this curve; the edge is formed by a double chamfer, the ax-blade being of uniform thick- ness. All together, this weapon is perhaps more or- iginal and characteristic than any other native to the Philippine Archipelago. With it goes the Ka- linga shield of soft wood, made in one piece, with the usual three horns or projections at the top and two at the bottom. These projections, however, are cylindrical, and the outside ones are continued down the edge of the shield and so form ribs. In The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. gan the ordinary Igorot shield the horns are flat, merely prolonging the surface of the shield, or else present- ing only a very small relief. As usual, a lacing of beyuco across top and botton protects the shield against a separation in the event of an unlucky stroke splitting it in two. We found the town unusually clean. Public latrines exist, and public drinking-tanks, both put in by Governor Hale, and highly approved of the people. The houses themselves were the best we had seen, some of them hexagonal in ground plan, and built of hard woods. ‘The pigs stay under- neath, to be sure, but their placeis kept clean. Rich men have rows of plates, the dinner-plates of civ- ilization, all around their houses, and take-up floors of split bamboo are common, being rolled up and washed in the neighboring stream with commend- able frequency. All together, Lubuagan made the impression of an affluent, not to say opulent, center, inhabitated by a brave, proud, and self-respecting people. CHAPTER XXIII. We leave the mountains.—Nanong.—Passage of the Chico.—The Apayao.—Tabuk.—The party breaks up.—Desolate plain.— The Cagayan Valley.—Enrile. The morning of Friday, May 13th, broke clear after a night of hard rain. We set off before sun- rise, our way now taking us eastward for the last stage of the mountain journey proper. The whole earth this morning seemed to be a-drip: every stream was rushing, and banks of cloud, fog, and mist crowned the heights and filled the valleys. To describe even approximately our course as we de- scended from the great terrace of Lubuagan is well- nigh impossible; but, as we came down, scene after scene of the greatest beauty offered itself to our admiration. The landscape softened too; we were leaving the high mountain land behind us, not too suddenly, however; for example, at one point a huge valley lay below us, bounded on the other side by a tremendous vertical wall of rock, over which fell a powerful stream. I estimated the fall at the time as at least four hundred feet. In due course we came to an affluent of our old friend the Chico, and had to ford. The stream 234 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 235 was up, but we got over without mishap. Fording is always a delicate operation in these mountains after a hard rain, since no one can ever tell what the nature of the footing will be, because of the boulders swept down. On this occasion Evans’s pony stopped short in mid-stream, refusing either to move on or back. There was nothing for it but dis- mount and investigate, Evans discovering that his pony had put one foot down between two large stones close together and so was simply caught fast. The country had now become decidedly more open; the trail for long stretches was almost a road. As a matter of fact, we were on the old main line of communication from the highlands to the Ca- gayan Valley. We made our first halt at Nanong, where everybody brought in gifts of chickens, eggs, and camotes, and received beads, red cloth, pins and needles in return. What made a particular impres- sion here was the number of children brought in, all wide-eyed, sloe-eyed, and some of them extremely pretty. The remainder of the day we spent go- ing down the left bank of the Chico, encountered again at Nanong. Shortly after leaving this point two large monkeys, brown with white breasts, ap- peared on the edge of the trail, apparently protest- ing with the utmost indignation against our presence in those parts. Harris remarked that once passing 236 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. this point alone he had run into eighteen of them, and that for a time he thought they were going to dispute his passage. “These were the only animals we saw on the whole trip, not counting a few birds. The valley opened hereabouts, and on the other bank, the right, a sharp-edged terrace came into view, fully three hundred feet above the river and continuing for miles as far as the eye could see. This must be an unusually good example of river terrace. On our side the trail was cut out of the cliff, solid rock, with a straight drop to the river below, a stretch of two of the hottest miles con- ceivable, what with the full blaze of the sun and the heat radiated and reflected from the face of the cliff. I was so weak from the water I had drunk the other day that I dismounted and walked the whole way, so that, if knocked out by the heat, I should at least not fall off my pony; a tumble on the wrong side would have brought the journey to a very sudden end. But, fortunately, nothing hap- pened, and we at last got down to the level of the river again, only to find it half in flood and fording out of the question. We were on the upstream side of a huge dome of rock, rising from the river itself, the only way around which was to cross twice. The rest of the party coming up with the cargadores, we had to wait until bamboo rafts could be built, the The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 227 raft really being nothing but a flat bundle lashed together with bejuco. In this case our rafts were so small that under the weight of only one man and his kit they immediately became submarines, so that one got partially wet crossing. Our horses and ponies were swum over. We were six hours making the two passages; still we were in luck, for had the stream been really up, we should simply have had to camp on its bank and wait for the waters to fall, a fate that sometimes overtakes the traveller in a country where an inno- cent stream may become a raging torrent almost while one is looking at it. We slept that night in a rest-house just across the river from Tabuk, and next morning the party divided, Mr. Worcester, Dr. Strong, Governor Pack, and Lieutenant-Governor Villamor to continue the mountain trip into Apayao, while the remainder of us, having been invited to accompany Mr. Wor- cester only as far as Tabuk, went on to the Cagayan River. It may be of interest, however, to say a few words here about the Apayao country, my au- thority being the “Seventh Annual Report of the Secretary of the Interior to the Philippine Com- mission”’ for the fiscal year 1907-1908. This country was first visited by Mr. Worces- ter in 1906, the Spanish Government never having 238 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. succeeded in gaining a foothold init. ‘‘ During the insurrection Lieutenant Gilmore, of the United States Navy, and his fellow-captives were taken into the southern part of it and there abandoned.”’ “‘So far as is known, no white man had ever penetrated the southern and central portions of Apayao until”’ Mr. Worcester, suitably accompanied and escorted, crossed the Cordillera, in 1906, from North Ilokos. A later expedition, commanded by a Constabulary officer, was attacked, not necessarily from any hos- tility to it as such, but because it was accompanied by natives hostile to a rancheria (Guenned ) ap- proached on the way. A punitive expedition, led by the same officer, afterward met with some suc- cess, but American popularity suffered in conse- quence. The Apayao country is the only sub- province under a native Governor, and its Governor, Sefior Blas Villamor, is the only Filipino that has ever shown any interest in or sympathy for the highlanders. His task has been a difficult one; for example, his only line of communication, the Abu- lug River, runs through a territory inhabited by Negritos, who had been so abused by the Christian natives on the one hand, and whose heads had been so diligently sought by the wild Tinguians of the mountains, on the other, that they had acquired the habit of greeting strangers with poisoned arrows. His ‘SE]IIQUIN PdZIIAID 9} DOON' “YUulIp v aAvy Avu JUOAIIAD-}eY} OS ‘sooqureq WioIJ 1spq SulMod punoIsaioy Ul Uayy ‘NVOVNEN’T LV SONHYHANOD 239 ‘SHOVAAH TL, BOY [wowsstudad yorsads Kq “ysikdoj ‘2 ‘qd ‘uopsurysnyy ‘auznénpy s14dv1d0a5) JouoywnN wod,| ONIMOHG “HONIAONd-€NG VONVIVY AO ‘IVLIdvVD ‘NVOVNAN’T JO MAIA 240 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 241 mountain region itself was inhabited by inveterate head-hunters, most of whom had never even seen a white man. Conditions are improving, however; the raids against the Christian and Negrito inhab- itants of the lowlands of Cagayan have been com- pletely checked, and Mr. Worcester hopes that head- hunting will diminish. It still exists. Strong told me, on his return to Manila, that, looking into a head-basket after leaving Tabuk, he found in it fresh fragments of a human skull; for the Apayaos take the skull like the other highlanders, but un- like them, break it into pieces. But with these peo- ple head-hunting is a part of their religious belief, and so all the harder to uproot. With the others it is a matter of vengeance, or else even of sport. ‘“On the other hand, the people of Apayao have many good qualities. They are physically well- developed and are quite cleanly. They erect beau- tifully constructed houses. Their women are well clothed, and both men and women love handsome ornaments. They are quite industrious agricultur- ists and are now begging for seed and for domes- tic animals in order that they may emulate their Christian neighbors in the raising of agricultural products.”’ Of course we should have been very glad to go on with Mr. Worcester into the Apayao country 242 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. if he had asked us; but it is practically trailless as yet, and for a party as large as ours would have been, questions of supply and transportation would have been difficult, to say nothing of the impolicy of taking a large number into the country at all. And so, on Saturday morning, May 14th, we shook hands with Mr. Worcester and his companions. His progress so far had been an unqualified success, un- marred by a single adverse incident, for the deplor- able loss of life at Kiangan could in no wise be at- tributed to our presence or to the occasion. What the results of the visit of 1910 will be, only time can tell; but experience shows that every year marks an advance in the spread of friendly relations, not only between the Government and the people, but between the subdivisions of the people itself.* The Chico being still up when we reached it, we crossed again on submarines, climbed the bank, and found ourselves in Tabuk (or Talbok), the most *For example, this year (1912) more people ‘‘came in’’ to meet Mr. Worcester then ever before. In Bontok every vailey of the sub-province was represented, and there was a time when represent- atives of all the villages danced together on the plaza, an event of importance in the history of these people as marking the passing of old feuds aud a determination to live at piece with one another. A moving picture machine was taken along in a four-wheeled wagon (showing incidental!y that the main trails have become roads since 1910), and created both enthusiasm and alarm: enthusiasm when some familiar scene with known living persons was thrown upon the screen, and alarm when a railway train, for example, was shown ad- vancing upon the spectators, causing many of them to flee for safety to the neighboring hills and woods. The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 243 pestilential hole in the Archipelago. Nothing is left of it now but a ruinous church and one or two houses. The first mass was said here or hereabouts in 1689, by the Dominicans, who kept up the mission until the monks all died of fever. Did an occasional officer in the old days prove objectionable to the authorities in Manila, he got an order to proceed to Tabuk for station; it was almost certain that he would never return. The point is of unquestionable importance, commanding, as it does, the main out- let of the Kalinga country to the plains of the Ca- gayan Valley; and so our own Government under- took to garrison it with Constabulary as a check on raids. The garrison remained long enough to be carried out on stretchers, and was removed to Lu- bagan, where the check is just as complete and per- sonal control possible. We had a long and hard day before us, but we did not know it when we set out from Tabuk at about seven in the morning. Gallman, Harris, and I kept together; our first business was to cross a vast, roughly circular plain fifteen miles in diameter, and densely overgrown with a rough, reedy grass two feet and more high. A foot-path ran across the plain, visible for only a very short distance ahead as long as one was in it, but imperceptible twenty yards to the right or left. To lose this path would 244 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. have been a serious matter, as it would have been a heart-breaking thing to force one’s way through the undisturbed grass. It would be hard to imagine anything else more wearisome than that fifteen-mile stretch. The sun was riding high in the heavens, ‘‘shining on both sides of the hill’’; not a breath of wind was stirring nor was there, barring a rare bird or two, a sign of life save the thousands of flies which, as our ponies pushed aside the grass overhanging the path, rose in clouds only to settle on our faces, hands, necks, backs, everywhere. We began by brushing them off, but it was of no use, and so we rode with our faces turned to a dim haze of low mountains bounding the plain on the east, and themselves dominated by still an- other range, the Sierra Madre, so distant as to look like a bank of immovable blue cloud. For miles our plodding seemed to bring them no nearer. If we could only get out of that sea of olive-gray grass, on which the heavy, stifling air seemed to press, and reach those nearer mountains! Twice the path led us into sinks or depressions fully ninety or one hun- dred feet below the level of the plain; why these could not have been avoided when the path was first struck out is hard to imagine, unless it was to get to water. For one of these sinks boasted of a clear, bold stream with all of its course underground The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 245 save the partin the depression. In both were full- grown trees and grateful shade. Had we not been pressed to get through, it would have been interest- ing to explore these huge sinks; but we passed on, the flies, which had abandoned us on our descent, rejoining us when we climbed out on the other side. In time we reached our mountains, arid, bare, eroded, wind-bitten, and made our way slowly and pain- fully up and through the pass, our trail hereabouts being nothing but a trench so deep and narrow that part of the way we could not keep our feet in the stirrups. As we neared the crest of the range the pass disappeared, and for the last half-mile or so we attacked the ridge directly. When we got to the top, we found a gallant breeze blowing, and, spreading out before us, the vast plains of the Ca- gayan Valley. Far over in the east, and apparently no nearer than ever, rose the blue, cloud-like mount- ains of the Sierra Madre, now showing like a wall, which indeed they are, and one which no man has so far succeeded in scaling. But not a sign of life, of man or beast, caught our eye. And yet this val- ley is an empire in itself; its axial stream, the Rio Grande de Cagayan, or Ibanag, the “ Philippine Tagus”’ of the ancient chronicles, the longest river of the Archipelago, by overflowing its banks every year, renews the fertility of the soil wherever its 246 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. waters can reach. We stood here on the ridge a long time, resting and looking. Below us green rib- bons, following the undulations of the plain, marked the trail of various water-courses; but, apart from this evidence of Nature’s living forces, somehow or other the entire landscape was silent and desolate. We now began the descent, leading our ponies, for it was too steep to ride, and at last came to a stream where we found shade and grass, and, better yet, the advance guard of the party with food and drink ready. Our next stage was over rolling coun- try, covered with fine short grass; once over this, the ground broke in our front, and we made the descent, finally coming out on the lowest floor of the valley at Enrile, two or three miles from the river. Night was falling as we made our way through its grass-grown streets, finding the air heavy, the people dull-looking, and everything commonplace: we had already begun to miss our mountains. EAP TE Re Xen Vi Tobacco industry.—Tuguegarao.—Caves.—The Cagayan River.— Barangayans.—Aparri.—Island of Fuga.—Sail for Manila.— Stop at Vigan.—Arrival at Manila. The great valley in which we now found our- selves really deserves more notice than perhaps it is suitable to give it here. As everyone knows, it furnishes the best tobacco of the Islands, tobacco that under proper care would prove a dangerous rival to that of Cuba, though it can never quite equal the product of the Vuelta Abajo. The cattle industry should prosper here—in fact, did a few years ago; the broad savannas, some of which we had crossed, furnishing excellent pasturage. It was proved long ago that this region was naturally adapted to the culture of silk and to the raising of indigo and sugar-cane. While tobacco was a Gov- ernment monopoly,* the valley was wealthy, traces of wealth being still found in the hands of the peo- ple under the form of jewels, some of them costly and beautiful. *For an account of what this Government monopoly really meant, see Jagor, ‘‘ Travels,’ etc., p. 324. A Spaniard of my ac- quaintance told me that if a native’s attention to his crop did not please the inspectors, they would cause him to be publicly flogged on Sunday before the church after mass; and if this course brought 247 248 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. The passage of the Payne bill has already brightened the prospects of the people, and espe- cially of the small growers, for prices paid on the spot have already gone up very considerably. The valley is sure to flourish before many years shall have passed, and nothing else would so much hasten this end as the completion of the railway from Ma- nila. But when we passed through, a sort of gen- eral apathy seemed to fill the air: the people were listless, and so much of the tobacco crop as we could see looked neglected. A partial explanation is to be found in the belief, wide-spread in these parts at this time, that the comet had come to mark the end of all things, and that any work done would be wasted. This belief, however, did not check the native and courteous hospitality of the people; all of us were taken in for the night, Evans and I go- ing to Sefior Cipriano Pagulayan’s, where we found an excellent dinner awaiting us—in particular, coffee of superlative excellence. Don Cipriano was very no amendment, they would then cut his stand down. Jagor, who travelled in the Philippines as long ago as 1859-60, could see no future for them save under American control, and he predicted that this control would come, an astonishing prophecy. ‘In pro- portion as the navigation of the west coast of America extends the influence of the American element over the South Sea, the capti- vating, magic power which the great Republic exercises over the Spanish colonies will not fail to make itself felt also in the Philip- pines. The Americans are evidently destined to bring to a full development the germs originated by the Spaniards.’ (‘‘ Travels in the Philippines,’’ p. 369.) Jagor’s work, it may be remarked, will always remain an authority on the Philippines. ‘soyvd ssviq YIM peut} ‘poom jo st preqqevog oy} fey UeUIMY YIM po}erO.Np ‘pivqqeosg puv ajiuy-peayyjosuo]] “oesnyy ‘oqn}-Suryquriq ooquieg ‘xe-pvayy vsuley ‘ad pra4gyIoqjs KQ Ydvsso0joy J 249 Photograph by Stockbridge. 2. Igorot Shield (from Lubuagan), defaced and scarred by cuts from a head-ax, received in a fight about March, 1910. The man behind this shield, a Kalinga policeman, was sent out to bring in an escaped prisoner. The prisoner?showed fight and was killed. 3. Usual form of Igorot Shield. 4. Typical Kalinga Shield. 250 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 251 modest about it, explaining that the coffee had been roasted only after our arrival and ground just before it was set on; but none the less it was admirable. Now, this coffee, of course, was grown in the valley, and there is no reason why its cultivation should not be taken up on a large scale for export. Enrile held us only for the night. ‘The next morning we all mounted, alas! for the last time, and, escorted by a great number of local magnates, took the road for the river. Here we left our mounts to Doyle, who was to return with them to Baguio. It was with great regret that I parted from Bubud: he had carried me faithfully and well, and I shall not soon forget his saucy head, looking after us as we got down the bank to go on board the motor- launch of the Tabacalera.* In a few minutes we had crossed and landed at Tuguegarao, the capital of the province, and still retaining traces of its wealth and importance in the great days of the tobacco monopoly. It has an imposing church built of brick, a hospital, and a Dominican college, all of substantial construction; its streets are broad and well laid out, but of the town itself not much can be said, as a fire swept off *The cable and popular name of the ‘‘Compafiia General de Tabacos de Filipinas”’; it owns plantations up the Grande in Isabela Province. 252 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. most of it a few years ago. Still Filipino towns rise easily from the ashes, and there is no reason why prosperity should not again smile upon this ancient borough. We tarried two or three days in Tuguegarao, waiting for river transportation and meanwhile great- ly enjoying the hospitality so generously shown us. Major Knauber, of the Constabulary, and Mr. Just- ice Campbell, of the Court of First Instance, invited me to stay with them in a fine old Spanish house they had together. Every evening Herr , of the —— Company, had us to dinner in his beautiful bungalow. Ata grand baile given us the day after our arrival, Heiser asked me if I had not dined that day and the day before at Herr "S$; on my Say- ing yes, he laughed and remarked that he had just taken up his cook as a leper to be sent to the leper hospital on the Island of Culion. But in the East nobody bothers about a thing like that. Tuguegarao is a point of departure for some interesting trips, notably one to some limestone caves, larger than the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. In one of these caves, receiving light, air, and moist- ure from fissures in the natural surface of the ground, palms (cocoa and other), bamboos, and other plants and trees are growing in natural miniature. I was told that this cave was fascinating and that I ought The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 253 to goand seeit. But time was pressing; although the commanding General had set no limit on my ab- sence, I felt I ought now to return. Accordingly, on the morning of the 18th, our transportation be- ing ready, Mr. Justice Campbell and I went aboard a motor-launch and set out for Aparri, at the mouth of the river. All river trips here in the East have an interest; this one proved no exception to the general rule, though it presented nothing especially worthy of record. But the Rio Grande is the great road of the Valley, to such an extent, indeed, that there are no land roads to speak of. We passed between low, muddy banks, frequently of uncertain disposition, as though wondering how much longer they could possibly resist the wash of the current. The stream itself is shallow, uncharted, unbeaconed; its nav- igation requires constant attention, which it cer- tainly got this day from our quartermaster, who remained on duty for ten consecutive hours. We had the ill-luck not to see a single crocodile, al- though the river is said to be full of them, all of ferocious temper. On the other hand, we did see the oddest possible ferry: a bundle or raft of bamboo, with chairs on top, towed across stream by a carabao regularly hitched up to it and getting over himself by swimming. This he does on an even keel, his 254 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. backbone being entirely out of the water when under way. There is nothing picturesque about the lower reaches of the Rio Grande, though its upper course, through hilly country, is different in this respect. The remains of one or two old towns, cut in two by the shift of the river-bed, excited our curiosity. So did, from to time, the barangayans, or native river-boats, huge, clumsy, ill-built, and generally with but four or five inches of free-board amidships on full load. These craft look as though they ought to sink by mere capillary attraction. However, peo- ple are born, live, and die aboard of them, so they must be safe enough. In the afternoon the river widened and its right bank, anyway, grew bolder and occasionally more permanent-looking, and fi- nally, about an hour before sunset, we perceived the low white go-downs of Aparri. We landed not at a wharf, but at the outer edge of the huddle of craft crowding the water front, and put up at the Fonda de Aparri, having done eighty-odd miles in a little over ten hours. All the tobacco of the Valley reaches the world through Aparri; it is consequently a port of con- siderable importance. But it has no safe anchorage and is frightfully exposed to typhoons, all of which, if they do not pass over the place directly, somehow The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 255 or other appear to step aside to give this region a blow. There is a never-ending conflict in the ad- jacent waters between the currents of the China Sea and those of the Pacific, making navigation hazardous, and for small boats perilous. On the day of our arrival, calm and fair as it was, a tre- mendous surf was beating on the bar, the spray and foam mounting in a regular wall many feet high, and driven up, not by the gradual attack of an ad- vancing wave, but by the tireless energy of angry waters ceaselessly beating upon the same spot. Of Aparri itself little can be said here: but, small as it is, it has nevertheless the bustle of. all seaports in activity. Many of its streets are paved with cobble-stones, and some of its buildings are, if not handsome, at least substantial. But it is cursed with flies: in our inn, otherwise comfortable enough, the kitchen and the temple of Venus Cloa- cina were side by side. ‘The flies were allithe more annoying that we had seen none in the mountains, nor indeed do I recollect ever having seen them in any number elsewhere in the Archipelago than at Aparri and in the never-to-be-forgotten plain of Ta- buk. However, we survived the flies, and late in the afternoon of the third day went on board a Spanish steamer bound for Manila. We used our cabin to stow our kit, but lived and slept on the deck 256 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. of the poop, the main deck between which and the forecastle was crowded with natives. Poor things! Each family appeared to have an area assigned to it, on which were piled indiscriminately all its earthly possessions in the shape of clothes, bags, pots and pans generally; the heap once formed, its owners sat and slept on it, with the inevitable family rooster at its highest point lording it over all. In fact, every spot on the main deck not otherwise occu- pied was simply filled with roosters, all challeng- ing one another night and day by indefatigable crowing. As illustrating the difficulties of navi- gation in these parts, our steamer was two hours getting out of the river and across the bar, a mat- ter of not more than a mile. Once out, she began to roll and pitch in an incomprehensible manner, seeing there was no wind and no sea. It was sim- ply the never-ending contest between the Pacific Ocean and the China Sea. Once fairly in the lat- ter, she behaved steadily enough. Our journey was without incident; it did not, much to my disappointment, include the side trip sometimes made to the Babuyanes Islands for cattle. One of these islands, Fuga, is especially interesting; urn-burial prevailed in it in the past, the urns in some cases being arranged in a circle around a central urn or altar. Moreover, there is / ’ The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 257 in Fuga a stone building known as the “Castle,” with arched doorways, said not to be of Span- ish origin, and near by is a plain strewn with human skulls and other bones, probably the scene of a battle. The skulls are remarkable from their great size, some of them being reported as extraordinary in this respect. The present inhab- itants of these islands and of the Batanes live in stone houses, much like those of North Ireland and the islands west of Scotland.* And so we had hoped, Campbell and I, that we might get at least a look at Fuga. For, although it lies near to Aparri, it is hard to reach; small boats, even on calm, smooth days, be- ing occasionally caught in the wicked currents of these waters and swamped out of hand. The next morning we made Kurrimao, which has a shore-line strikingly picturesque in a land almost surfeited with the picturesque. We stayed long enough to take on a number of carabaos, which were swum out to the ship, and then hauled out of the water by a sling passed around their horns. Our next stop was at Vigan, a well-built town, many of whose houses are of stone. We reached the town in a motor-car, passing through well cul- *So do the aborigines of Formosa. ‘‘ These aborigines of the hills live in villages. Their houses are built of stone, roofed with slate, and have a remarkably clean, home-like appearance.”’ (Pick- ering, ‘‘ Pioneering in Formosa,”’ p. 69.) 258 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. tivated fields of maguey. The mountains, rising abruptly from the coastal plain, are here cut by the famous Abra de Vigan, a conspicuous gap serv- ing as a land-mark to the mariner for miles. And it is the custom to take a ride of many hours up the pass, and then come down the rapids in two, on bamboo rafts built for the purpose. This is a most exciting trip; alas! we had to be contented with an account of it! But Vigan itself was worth the trouble of going ashore; its churches and monasteries are extensive, dignified of appearance, and far less di- lapidated than is unfortunately so frequently the case elsewhere in the Islands. Not the least inter- esting item of our very short stay was a visit to a new house, built and owned by an Ilokano, and equipped with the most recent American plumbing. The house itself happily was after the old Spanish ‘plan, the only one really suited to this climate and latitude. But then the Ilokanos are the most busi- nesslike and thrifty of all the civilized inhabitants: their migration to other parts, a movement encour- aged of long date by the Spanish authorities, is one of the most hopeful present-day signs of the Archipelago. I was sorry to take my leave of Vi1- gan; the place and its environs seemed: full of in- terest. One more stop we made at San Fernando de Unién the following day, a clean-built town, but Photograph by Stockbridge Ifugao Carved Bowl, stained black. Axes of larger Bowl, 4 and 5 inches (inside). 259 o. Che, AS x Photograph by Stockbridge. Ifugao Pipe,of brass; length of stem, 6 inches. Wooden Carved Sitting Figure, Ifugao, 3.5°inches high. Wooden Spoon with carved handle; earrings, etc., of brass wire. 260 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 261 otherwise of no special characteristics. Here we met an officer of Constabulary that had been recently sta- tioned at Lubuagan, who told us of coming suddenly one day upon a fight between two bodies of Kalingas, numbering twenty or twenty-five men each, and this in Lubuagan itself. According to our ideas, it was no fight at all, the champions of each side en- gaging in single combat, while the rest looked on and shouted, waiting their turn. One man had al- ready been killed, his headless trunk lying on the ground. On the approach of the officer they all ran. Here, too, we heard from another Constab- ulary officer, that the zmsurrectos in 1898-1899 forced the I[gorots to carry bells and other loot taken from the conventos and churches, and would shoot the car- gadores if they stumbled or fell, or could go no farther under the weights they were carrying. Twenty-four hours later we steamed up Manila Bay. The trip was over. . CHAPTER XXV. Future of the highlanders.—Origin of our effort to improve their condition.—Impolicy of any change in present administra- tion.—Transfer of control of wild tribes to Christianized Fili- pinos.—Comparison of our course with that of the Japanese in Formosa. The question now presents itself: What is to be- come of these highlanders of Northern Luzon? And if the answer to be given is here applied only to them, let it be distinctly understood that logically the question may be put in respect of all the wild people of the Philippines. Of these there are over one million in a total population of perhaps eight millions. At once it appears that any conclusions we may draw, any speculations we may cherish, in respect of the Archipelago, as being inhabited by a Christian people unjustly deprived of liberty by us, must be subject to a very large and important cor- rection. Limiting our inquiry to Luzon alone, let it be recollected that of its 4,000,000 population nearly four hundred thousand, or one-tenth, are highlanders, and that these highlanders, in all prob- ability, arrived in the Islands at an earlier date than their Christianized cousins of the lowlands. Let us recollect further that these people are eth- 262 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 263 nologically not savages at all; not only are they workers in steel and wood, weavers of cloth, but hydraulic agriculturists of the very highest merit. On the side of moral qualities they invite our ap- proving attention: they speak the truth, they look one straight in the eye, they are hospitable, cour- ageous, and uncomplaining; their women are on a footing of equality, more or less, with the men, and are respected by them. Where they have had an opportunity, they have shown an aptitude to learn of no mean quality. Physically they are the best people of the Archipelago, and under this head would be remarkable anywhere else in the world. Now, the Spaniards, with a few exceptions, made no systematic, continuous attempt to civilize these peoples; or, if they did, no measurable results have come down to our own day, even Villaverde’s efforts, genuine as they were, having left almost no trace. So far from having done anything-for the hill- men, the record of the Spanish at the very few points garrisoned by them is one of injustice and robbery, and worse. That of the Filipinos,* in imitation of *The word ‘‘Filipino”’ is taken to mean the civilized, Chris- tianized inhabitant of Malay origin of the Philippine Islands. As such, it is convenient and useful. It should be recollected, how- ever, that there is no such thing as a Filipino people. There are Tagalogs, Visayans, Bicols, Pampangans, Ilokanos, Cagayanes, etc., etc., to say nothing of the wild people themselves, all speaking different languages; but these can not be said to form one people. 264 The Head flunters of Northern Luzon. their Spanish masters, is no better. At any rate, when we took over the Archipelago in 1898, a vast area of Luzon was held by a people who looked, and justly, so far as their experience had gone, upon the white man and his Filipino understudy as an enemy. The difficulty of guiding and controlling these people undoubtedly had been (and still is) great, and partly accounts for the state of affairs we encountered when we first entered the country, but it was necessarily no greater for our prede- cessors in the Islands than it has been for us. Now, where they failed, we, it may be said with- out fear of contradiction, are succeeding, and it is but the simplest act of justice to say that the credit for our success belongs to the Secre- tary of the Interior of the Philippine Islands, Mr. Dean C. Worcester. He would be the last man on earth to say that his success is complete; on the contrary, he would assert that a very great quan- tity of work yet remains to be done, and that what he has done so far is but the beginning. But it is nevertheless a successful beginning, and successful because it rests on the solid foundation of honesty and fair dealing, and is inspired by interest in and sympathy for a vast body of people universally hated and feared by the Filipino, and until lately The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 265 neglected and misunderstood by almost everybody else. The physical difficulty alone of reaching these various peoples was not only very great, but mere presence in their country involved great risk of one’s life. Again, the absence of even the rudest form of tribal organization made the way hard. Take the Ifugaos, for example, about 120,000 in number, all speaking essentially the same language, inhabit- ing the same country, and having the same origins and traditions. Yet this large body was and is yet broken up into separate rancherias, or settlements, each formerly hostile to all the others, this hostility being so great that merely to walk into a neighbor- ing rancheria in plain sight, not more than two miles off across the valley, was a sure way to commit suicide. And what is true of the Ifugaos is true of allthe others. Could any other field have been more unpromising, have offered more difficulties? There were those thousands of savages shut up in their all but inaccessible mountains. Why not leave them there, to take one another’s heads when occasion of- fered? They raised nothing but rice and sweet po- tatoes, anyway, and not enough of those to keep from going hungry. Why concern one’s self about them, when there was already so much to be done elsewhere? 266 The Head ‘Hunters of Northern Luzon. To Mr. Worcester’s everlasting honor, be it said, he took no such view. On the contrary, he went to work, and that after a simple fashion, but then, all great things aresimple! The first thing was to see the people himself; and then came the be- ginning of the solution, to push practicable roads and trails through the country. Once these estab- lished, communication and interchange would follow, and the way would be cleared for the betterment of relations and the removal of misunderstandings. Today an American may ride through the country alone, unarmed and unmolested;* twenty years ago a Spaniard trying the same thing would have lost his head within the first five miles. And this dif- ference is fundamentally due to the fact, already . ° mentioned, of the honesty of our relations with these “\ simple mountaineers. We have their confidence and» their esteem and their respect, and this in spite of the necessity under which our authorities have constantly labored of punishing them when necessary and of in- sisting upon law and order wherever our jurisdiction prevails. The lesson has been hard to learn, but it has been driven home.) The truth of the matter is, that a great missionary work has been begun; mis- sionary not in the limited sense of forcing upon the *Retana, in his edition (1909) of De Morga remarks (p. 502): ‘“To-day there would not be many to dare go from Manila to Aparri by the road taken by the Spaniards in 1591.”’ The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 267 understanding of a yet circumscribed people a re- ligion unintelligible to them, but in the sense of teaching peace and harmony, respect for order, obe- dience to law, regard for the rights of others. A beginning accordingly has been made, but what is to be the end? We should not stay for an answer, could we but feel sure that but one answer were possible. But we can not feel sure on this head; the people of the Islands, whether civilized or uncivilized, have not yet gone far enough to pro- ceed alone. To drop the work now, nay, to lessen it, would merely be inviting a return to former evil - conditions. No greater disaster could befall these highlanders to-day than a change entailing a dim- inution of the interest and sympathy felt for them at the seat of government. It is best to be plain about this matter: the Filipinos of the lowlands dis- like the highlander as much as they fear and dread him. They apparently can not bear the idea that but three or four hundred years ago they too were barbarians;* for this reason the consideration of the highlander is distasteful and offensive to them. The appropriations of the Philippine Assembly for the *Some Igorots brought down to the Manila carnival of 1912 were forced, at the request of Filipino authorities, to put on trous- ers. This was not for comfort’s sake, nor yet for decency’s, for the bare human skin is no uncommon sight in Manila. Apparently, the Filipinos of Manila were unwilling to let the world note that their cousins of the mountains were still in the naked state. 268 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. necessary administration of the Mountain Province are none too great; they would cease entirely could the Assembly have its own way in the matter. The system of communications, so well begun and al- ready so productive of happy results, would come to anend. To turn the destiny of the highlander over to the lowlander is, figuratively speaking, simply to write his sentence of death, to condemn as fair a land as the sun shines on to renewed barbarism. We are shut up to this conclusion, not by theoretical considerations, but by experience. The matter is worth examining a little closely, covering, as it does, © not only the hill tribes, but non-Christians every- — where else. Certain persons have demanded from time to time that the control of non-Christian tribes shall be turned over to the Filipinos. Now, pointing out in passing that the Filipinos and the non-Christians are distinct peoples, fully as distinct as the Dutch and the Germans, and that the Filipinos have no just claim to the ownership of the territory occu- pied by the wild men, let us ask ourselves if the Filipinos are able and fit to control the non-Christian tribes.” *For a full discussion of this entire matter, see the Report of the Secretary of the Interior, Philippine Islands, for 1910, Wash- « ington Government Printing Office, 1911, from which the quotations given above are taken. Photograph by Stockbridge. Carved Wooden Figurines, Ifugao; 9 and 8.5 inches high, respectively. 269 Nig o Mawr io} Awe " EQ Se PD ve my Shy ony 3 ‘ays yg Am, we ~ eo V/GAN \ MS iyi \ 4 MAGOH: Tht ANSS | 2 ib 9 erax BS NTOK! = {realli ine Z & Mt Amuyao’y, Y, i » yy sy OM, ply, \ Fa FERNANDO ins BiGuIO 5} p Krave “a o ; ? so aS MILES Drawn by Glassford. Map OF NORTHERN LUZON, SHOWING THE MOUNTAIN PROVINCE. 270 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. D7T Consider for a moment the facts set out in the following extracts: “With rare exceptions, the Filipinos are pro- foundly ignorant of the wild men and their ways. They seem to have failed to grasp the fact that the non-Christians, who have been contemptuously re- ferred to in the Filipino press as a ‘‘few thousand savages asking only to be let alone,’’ number ap- proximately a million and constitute a full eighth of the population of the Archipelago.”’ “The average hillman hates the Filipinos on account of the abuses which his people have suffered at their hands, and despises them because of their inferior physical development and their compar- atively peaceful disposition, while the average Fili- pino who has ever come in close contact with wild men despises them on account of their low social development, and, in the case of the more warlike tribes, fears them because of their past. record for taking sudden and bloody vengeance for real or fancied wrongs.”’ “Tt is impossible to avoid plain speaking if this question is to be intelligently discussed; and the hard fact is, that wherever the Filipinos have come in close contact with the non-Christian in- inhabitants, the latter have almost invariably suf- fered at their hands grave wrongs, which the more 272 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. warlike tribes, at least, have been quick to avenge. Thus a wall of prejudice and hatred has been built up between the Filipinos and the non-Christian tribes. It is a noteworthy fact that hostile feeling toward the Filipinos is strong even among people like the Tinguians who, barring their religious be- liefs, are in many ways as highly civilized as are their Ilocano neighbors.” “The success of American rule over the non- Christian-tribes of the Philippines is chiefly due to the friendly feeling which has been brought about.” ‘The wild man has now learned for the first time that he has rights entitled to a respect other than that which he can enforce with his lance and his head-axe. He has found justice in the courts. His property and his life have been made safe, and the American governor, who punishes him sternly when he kills, is his friend and protector so long as he behaves himself.’’ “Finally, it should be clearly borne in mind that the Filipinos have been given an excellent op- portunity to demonstrate practically their interest in the non-Christians, and their ability wisely to direct the affairs of primitive peoples. While the inhabitants of the Mountain Province, Nueva Viz- caya, Agusan, and the Moro Province are not now subject to control by them, and the inhabitants of The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 70 Mindoro and Palawan are subject to their control only through the Philippine Legislature, there are non-Christian inhabitants in the provinces of Caga- yan, Isabela [and eighteen others]. “At the outset, these governors and provincial boards |i. e., of the provinces just mentioned] exer- cised over their non-Christian constitutents precisely the same control they had over Filipinos. To the best of my knowledge and belief, not one single im- portant measure looking to the betterment of the condition of these non-Christian inhabitants was ever inaugurated by a Filipino during this period. Indeed, the fact that no expense would be volun- tarily incurred for them became so evident as to render necessary the passage, on December 16, 1905,”’ of an act setting aside a portion of the public rev- enues for the exclusive benefit of the non-Christians. “After Apayao was established as a sub-prov- ince of Cagayan and the duty of providing funds for the maintenance of its government was explicitly imposed upon the provincial board of that prov- ince, the governor stated to me that, in his opinion, it would be useless to make the necessary expend- iture, and that, in his opinion, it would be better to kill all the savages in Apayao! As they number some 52,000, this method of settling their affairs 274 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. would have been open to practical difficulties, apart from any humanitarian consideration!”’ ‘Contrast with this record of inaction and lack of interest the record of the special Government provinces* and the Moro Province, where dwell really formidable tribes, which have until recently engaged in piracy, head-hunting, and murder. Here very extensive lines of communication have been opened up by the building of roads and trails and the clearing of rivers. A good state of public order has been established. Head-hunting, slavery, and piracy are now very rare. The liquor traffic has been almost completely suppressed. Life and prop- erty have been rendered comparatively safe, and in much of the territory entirely so. In many in- stances, the wild men are being successfully used to police their own country. Agriculture is being de- veloped. Unspeakably filthy towns have been made clean and sanitary. The people are learning to abandon human sacrifices and animal sacrifices and to come to the doctor when injured or ill. Numerous schools have been established and are in successful operation. The old sharply drawn tribal lines are disappearing. Bontoc Igorots, Ifugaos, and Kalin- gas now visit each other’s territory. At the same time that all of this has been accomplished, the *E. g., the Mountain Province.—C. De W. W. The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 275 good-will of the people themselves has been secured. They are outspoken in their appreciation of what has been done for them and in their expression of the wish that American rule should continue. They would be horror-stricken at the thought of being turned over to Filipino control.’’* ‘“‘So far as concerns the warlike tribes, the work for their advancement thus far accomplished would promptly be lost; for they would instantly offer armed resistance to Filipino control, and the old haphazard intermittent warfare, profitless and worse than profitless for both peoples, would be resumed.”’ ‘T say, in all kindness, but with deep conviction, that there is no reason for believing that Filipino control of the more pacific non-Christian tribes would not promptly result in the re-establishment of the old system of oppression which Americans have found it necessary to combat from the day when military rule was first established in these islands until.now. I speak whereof I know when I say that the people of these tribes have been warned, *It is interesting to note that since the foregoing report was published, Captain Harris, Philippine Constabulary, has persuaded the Kalingas to turn in one hundred and eighty-seven firearms in their possession, and this without firing a shot himself! What this means may be inferred from the fact that all over the Islands, whether among Christians or non-Christians, the desire to have firearms is of the keenest. The great ambition of the Ifugao is to be a policeman, and so be authorized to carry a gun. The Moros will give $400.00 for an Army rifle and a belt of ammunition worth, say, $18.00.—C. De W. W. 276 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. over and over again, by those interested in re-es- tablishing the old régime, that American control in the Philippines will be only temporary, and that when the government is turned over to the Fili- pinos the tribesmen will be punished for their pres- ent ‘insubordination’ and failure tamely to submit to injustice and oppression, as many of them for- merly did.”’ These extracts speak for themselves. So far as is known, the report from which they are drawn has gone unchallenged. Is it necessary any further to consider the question of a transfer of control from the present authorities to the Filipinos or to any other authority? Would not any change in the present administration be singularly unwise? Of course, the views and arguments set forth here are extremely unpopular among the politicians of the native ruling class. But then no Filipino likes the plain, unvarnished truth, a fact that should re- ceive full weight in considering any demand or re- quest of native or racial origin, involving questions of government. With our own treatment of the American Indian in mind, our people should be the last to consent to any change in the relations or administration of the wild men of the Philippine Islands not fully justified by the amplest necessity, not warranted by The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. Ty well-grounded hopes of greater improvement. These men, for the first time in their history, are having a chance. That chance is fair to-day, and will con- tinue fair so long as its administration lies in Amer- ican hands, competent, trained, and experienced. In taking over the Philippines, we have inci- dentally become responsible for a large number of wild men. Their fate is bound up in that of the Islands. Now, these islands may remain under our control, or they may not. Obviously, then, the question has its political side: we may grant full international independence to the Philippines. In the belief of some this would be merely a signal for civil war in the Archipelago, the issue of which no man can guess. But whether or not, in granting independence to the Philippines, we shall be sign- ing the death-warrant of the highlander. Let us repeat that this people form one-tenth of the pop- ulation of Luzon: save as we are helping him, he can not as yet assert himself beyond the reach of his spear. Shall we be the ones to mark this as the limit beyond which he shall never go? Let us not deceive ourselves: a grant of independence means the abandonment of hundreds of thousands of peo- ple to perpetual barbarism. What would happen if the Islands fell into alien hands of course no one can tell. But there is strong 278 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. ground for believing that Japan would enter a mighty bid for the sovereignty of the Archipelago, if we ever contemplate parting with it. Now, Japan in Formosa has for years been struggling, and without success, to control or subdue the aborigines of the mountains, a people of the same blood as the Igorots, of the same habits and traits, savage head-hunters, the terror of all the plainsmen of no matter what origin. It is interesting to read* that ‘““among other measures taken by the Japanese authorities to ‘con- trol’ the aborigines was the erection of barbed wire entanglements charged with electricity,’’ the idea being, after surrounding a savage position by these entanglements, to have the troops drive the sav- ages upon them. Many people have refused to be- lieve that this electrical process has ever been put into effect, but the Kobe newspaper goes on to quote the correspondent of the 7zmes in confirma- tion. And a correspondent from Shanghai, writingt to give the truth about the state of affairs in For- mosa and to defend the Japanese against the charge of ill-treating the savages, nevertheless admits hav- ing been shown the entanglements, which, he says, are ‘“‘as harmless as any ordinary fence wire during the day, except in cases of serious uprising on the *The Japan Chronicle, weekly edition, Kobe, January 5, 1911. tlbid., same date. The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 279 part of the savages. At night it is charged, but all the savages know this grave fact.’’ According to the 7imes correspondent, some three hundred miles have already been set up, and the work will be pushed until the aborigines “are wholly caged.”’ Lastly, the Chronicle reports the Governor-General of Formosa as fixing a term of three years for the suppression of the bravest and fiercest tribe of all, numbering 50,000, at a cost of 17,000,000 yen. Now, we have no interest here or elsewhere in what is, after all, a municipal affair of Japan’s. She must and will settle her own problems as seems best to her, and, if she is driven to ‘‘suppress’’ her For- mosan aborigines, it is none of our business. More- over, before pronouncing upon the matter, we should in all fairness hear the other side, although it does look as though the electric wire fence must be ad- mitted. But there is enough in what is reported from Formosa to give us pause when we consider the possibility of parting with the control of the Philippine Islands, whether to Japan or to any other nation. In so far as the wild tribes of the Archipelago are concerned, we have made a happy beginning; we owe it to our self-respect to carry on the work to a happy end. This we can do by heeding the simplest of rules: Leave well alone. THE INDEPENDENCE OF THE PHILIPPINES — , 7 » ‘ y 7 , * fi é d ‘ ’ ' nS hf 5 “ ee Fo P op _ ¥ @ | ¥ as oad ¥, phew es a; ‘rm ar a ee ee * ‘ yt - i : ay r _ a i+ f ry see 3 , ‘ , 4 . ’ 3 4) pd ’ e : é i f \ rp ta» ‘ : ain 1 ’ Pa’ ‘ ‘ ‘ < + PALO LE OG ’ APPENDIX. THE INDEPENDENCE OF THE PHILIPPINES. “‘Am I my brother’s keeper?’’—Genesis tv., 9. “Tf we lose sight of the welfare of the people in a creed or a phrase or a doctrine, we have taken leave of our intelligence, and we have proved ourselves unfit for leadership.’-—A Letter to Uncle Sam. Shall we give their independence to the Philippines? To this question an answer is still to be made by the American people. Not only do we not know whether we shall give this independence or not, but we have not yet decided whether we ought to or not. Even if we could suppose that the country had made up its mind on the subject, it would still be true that no competent authority has considered the manner in which our country would translate its desires into action, whether in one direction or another. The reason of this state of affairs is not far to seek: our people neither know anything about these islands, nor do they care anything about them. Perhaps it is more accurate to say that our ignorance is the logical result of our indifference. The Islands are far away, as it were, inhabited by a different race, busied, on the whole, about things that form no part of our life, whether national or private. We have, as a people, bestowed no serious thought upon them; we have not yet raised the disposition to be made of them to the dignity of a national question. 1; The Philippines became ours by the fortune of war. On the subsidence of the immediate questions raised by the war, we have continued in the ownership of the Islands without concerning our- selves thus far as to the ultimate place they are to occupy in our national ecomony. Of this state of affairs, but one opinion can 283 284 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. be expressed: it is extraordinary. Even in a grossly material material point of view, our attitude is indefensible; if we regard ourselves as landlords, we are indifferent to our tenants; if as mere owners, then are we careless of the future of our property. We have not assumed the responsibilities involved with any national sense of responsibility; we have neither declared nor formed any policy. But in this fact lies the extraordinariness of the situation. Of the soundness of our title to the Islands at international law there is not the shadow of a doubt; the Islands are ours. What do we intend to do with them? Why have we not, after fourteen years’ possession, found an answer to the question, or, in other words, declared a policy? Nations, no less than individuals, must take an interest in their property, and society demands as a right that any property of whatever nature shall be adjusted in respect of re- lations to all other property. We have followed this course as regards Cuba and Porto Rico; but, apart from taking the Phil- ippines and continuing to own them, we have made no adjustment of their case. The property, as such, has been administered, and, on the whole, well administered; the amount of work done, indeed, is astonishing. But that is not the issue: however good has been the official administration of the Archipelago, whatever the progress under our tutelage of its peoples as a whole, no one knows to-day what relation will be permanently established between the Archi- pelago and the United States, what our policy is, or is to be, in respect of the Islands. And yet upon our declaration of a policy hangs their future. The matter in its interest and importance is national; equally national is the indifference we have displayed with respect to its settlement. Both the United States and the Philippines are entitled to a decision. II. At the outset of any consideration of the question in hand, it is obvious that we are not shut up a priori to any one solution. Thus, we may decide to keep the Islands, or we may grant them immediate independence, or independence at some future date; we may establish a protectorate, or give a qualified independence, or even turn them over to some other power—for example, England The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 285 or Japan; or, finally, we may secure an international agreement to neutralize the Islands, thus ostensibly guarding them against athe mbitions of powerful neighbors of colonizing disposition. All of these solutions have at one time or another been mentioned; not one of them has ever been officially announced by the Govern- ment, or ratified by the people. Although they are all possible, yet a moment’s thought shows that they are of very different weight: itis hard to conceive, for example, of our turning the Islands over to England. Excluding, then, cession to any foreign power, we may roughly arrange the various possibilities in a scale, as it were: (a) absolute retention; (6) qualified retention; (c) protectorate; (d) neutralization; (e) international independence at some future date; (f) immediate international independence. On examining this list thus arranged, certain deductions appear. The stated various possibilities are not all independent, nor are they all exclusive one of the others. Thus (a) excludes all the rest, or, better, implies (b), (c), and (d), and excludes (¢) and (f); (6) and (c) between them are not independent, since a qualified retention may pass into a protectorate. Neutralization not impossibly may ulti- mately call for a protectorate. Future independence, so long as unaccomplished, implies (a), (b), (c), and (d), while (f) is compl :tely exclusive. It may, however, not prevent foreign absorption, if, once out, we stay out. We shall not here take up all of these possibilities. Whatever other conclusion may be reached, the American people must first pass, either tacitly or explicitly, on retention or independence. If either of these extremes be selected, the other possibilities go by the board. If both are rejected, the remaining four will then have their day in court. Our immediate purpose, then, is to discuss the question with which this investigation opens, with the definite purpose of sug- gesting, if not of reaching, conclusions that may help others in forminga a decision. It is only when individual decisions have so increased in number as in some sort to form a body of public opinion that future action, whether for or against independence, is to be expected. 286 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. TIL. However unjustly the American people may treat its own self in respect of tariffs and other issues deeply affecting its welfare, it may be taken for granted, and is so taken here, that in foreign relations the desire of the people is to do what is right. The right determined, a duty is imposed. Clearly, then, we must first try to discover in this case what is right—what is right for us, what is right for the Islanders. It may be that what is theoretically right, or regarded as theoretically right, shall turn out to be prac~ tically wrong; or that what is right for the one shall be wrong for the other. Again, some common standing-ground may be found, where the right of each, converted into the rights of both, may so far overlap as substantially to coincide. The idea is held by a vigorous few, and incessantly expressed, that the American people, through force of arms, is holding in subjection and depriving of liberty another people; that this state of affairs is wrong, bad for both sides, and should come to an end by an immediate grant of full independence to the Filipino people, because no one nation is good enough to hold any other in sub- jection. It is pertinent to remark, that these ideas so far have found no nation-wide expression: as already said, they are the expression of only a few, but they may be the private opinions of many. Taken together, they constitute what may be called the purely abstract view of the case. This view takes no account of attendant conditions; it asserts that the right is one and only one thing, and can not be anything else; that is to say, it defines the right and refuses to admit that any other definition will hold, or that any elements can enter into the definition other than those which it has seen fit to include. If no other aspect of the case be correct, our duty is indeed plain. But it is conceivable that this view may not be correct, or at least that so many other factors have to be considered that what might be true in the abstract is subject to very considerable modification when applied to things as they are. Of this, no better illustration can be given here than the error committed when it is asserted that we, one people, are hold- ing another people, the Filipino, in subjection. Asa matter of fact, S| The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 287 there is no Filipino people. A certain number of persons, about eight millions, inhabit the Philippine Archipelago, but it is no more correct to call these one people than it is to call the Europeans one people because they happen to inhabit the European continent. It is well to keep this point in mind, because, unless a grave error is here committed, the impression prevails that it is one single, homogeneous people whom we are unjustly depriving of independ- ence. At any rate, if not categorically expressed, the connotation of the idea of homogeneity exists. How far this is fromthe truth is so evident to any person having the slightest real acquaintance with the Philippines, that it would hardly be worth while to dwell upon the matter here, were it not for the ignorance of our people at large. It is convenient to speak of the Filipino people, just as it is convenient to speak of the Danish people, or of the English; but whereas, when we say ‘“‘Danish”’ or ‘‘English’’ we mean one defi- nite thing that exists as such, when we say ‘‘Filipino’’ we should un- derstand that the term stands fora relatively great number of very different things. For example, confining ourselves for the moment to the Christianized tribes, it may be asserted that the inhabitants of the great Cagayan Valley, the tobacco-growing country, are at least as different from those of the Visayas, the great middle group of Islands, as are the Italians from the Spanish. Precisely similar dif- ferences, increasing, roughly, with the difference of latitude, may be drawn almost at random between any other pairs of the ele- ments constituting the Filipino population. The Ilokanos, to give only one more illustration, have almost nothing more in common with the Bicols than the fact that they both probably come from the same original stock, just as the English and the Germans have the same ancestors. All these subdivisiens speak different lan- guages, and the vast majority do not speak Spanish at all. But this is not all. The Filipino peoples are divided into two great classes, the Christian and the non-Christian. Now, these non-Christians number over a million, and are themselves broken up into many subdivisions, not only differing in language, customs, habits and traditions, but until very recently bitterly hostile to one another, and so low in the scale of political development that, unlike our own Indians, they have never risen to any conception 288 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. of even tribal government or organization. Moreover, in Moro- land, in the great island of Mindanao with its neighbors, the situ- ation is further complicated by the fact that the dominant elements are Mohammedan. Over most of these non-Christians the Span- iards had not even the shadow of control. The appellation ‘‘Fil- ipino people” is therefore wholly erroneous; more than that, it is even dangerously fallacious, in that its use blinds or tends to blind our own people to the real conditions existing in the Archi- pelago. It is correct to speak of the Filipino peoples, because this expression is, geographically, accurately descriptive; but it is ab- solutely misleading to speak of the Filipino people, because of the false political idea involved and conveyed by the use of the singular number. Similarly, there is no objection to the term ‘‘Filipino”’ or “Filipinos,’’ so long as we understand it to mean merely an inhab- itant or the inhabitants of the Philippine Archipelago, more nar- rowly the Christianized inhabitant or inhabitants; but it is dis- tinctly wrong to give to the term a political or national color. It may be remarked now that the divisions, both Christian and non- Christian, of which we have been speaking, determined as they are by natural conditions, are likely to survive for many genera- tions to come. At any rate, the fact that many, and those the most important, constituent elements of the proposed independent government are widely separated by the seas, and that even those situated on the same islands are confined by mountain ranges hitherto extremely difficult to cross, makes it plain that the homo- geneity necessary to the formation and permanency of a strong government will be hard to secure, or, if ever secured, to maintain. When, therefore, it is proposed to grant independence to the Philippine Islands, let it be recollected that this grant is to be made not to a single homogeneous people, of one speech, of one religion, of one state of civilization, of one degree of social and political development, but to an aggregation of peoples, of different speech, of different religions, of widely varying states of social and political development, of little or no communication with one another—to an aggregation, in short, whose elements, before 1898, had had but one bond, the involuntary bond of inherited sub- jection to Spanish authority, and all of which to-day are distin- The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 289 guished by the characteristic trait of the Oriental, absence of the quality of sympathy. IV. Since, at international law, our title to the Islands is unclouded, it follows that our responsibility in the premises is complete. If, therefore, in the administration of our responsibility, our wards should make a request for independence, it is our duty to examine this request, to inquire into its origin, and then to investigate its reasonableness with the purpose of determining whether, in the circumstances, our wards are able, prepared, or ready to undertake the responsibilities which they pray us to discharge upon them. That the request for independence is made, and frequently made, there can be no doubt. It has been made in the past and it will continue to be made in the future. One hears it in speeches, and the native press echoes it. Regularly the Assembly closes, or used to close, its sessions by a resolution calling upon the United States to grant immediate independence to the Philippine Islands. Apparently the request has some volume; in any case, it is more or less loudly made. Now, if the demand is widespread, if it comes from all ranks of society, from the humblest peasant in the rice- paddies to the richest merchant of Manila, from the tobacco- planter of the Cagaydn Valley to the hemp-stripper of Davao, if it is made in full recognition of the responsibilities involved, then, whether we are disposed to grant it or not, it is a serious matter. It becomes serious, objectively, because so many people are asking for it. Even if the demand come but from a few, the matter is nevertheless, subjectively, one of concern, because we are respon- sible, and no factor or element should be overlooked in making up our minds. Now, it is a fact that the chief demand for independence comes from the Tagdlogs, the subdivision or tribe of the Filipinos (we are using the word here and elsewhere as a convenience merely) inhabiting Manila and the adjacent provinces. We speak in all kindliness when we say that they are distinguished by a certain restlessness of disposition, by a considerable degree of vanity. They are not so given to labor as some others—for example, the Ilokanos, 290 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. to whom they are measurably inferior in point of trustworthiness. More numerous than any other tribe except the Visayans, they are also wealthier and better educated. Some of them have there- fore earned and achieved distinction, but these are exceptions, for in general they are characterized by volatility and superficiality. They are more mixed in blood than other tribes. It is not without significance that it was these same Tagdlogs who organized in the past the chief insurrections against the domination of Spain, prin- cipally, as is well known, because of the misrule of the friars. It is also a fact that the farther one removes from Manila the feebler becomes the cry for independence. If we consider the condition of the loudest supporters of the movement, we find them all, or nearly all, to be politicians, politicos. Some of these politicians are not Tagdlogs—for example, Sefior Osmefia, the Speaker of the Assembly, is a Visayan; so that it would perhaps be more ac- curate to say of the entire propaganda that it is an affair of the politicians, supported chiefly by Tagdlogs. In other words, it is worth while to ask ourselves if the demand for independence be real, arising out of the necessities of the people, or artificial, ex- ploited by the politicians for ends not unfamiliar to us here in the States. It is useless to appeal for a decision to public opinion in the Archipelago, that shall include the whole population, for no such public opinion exists or can exist. And if it be argued that lack of public opinion is no disproof of the existence of a real desire for independence, the rejoinder springs at once to the tongue, that independence would be a sham where public opinion is impossible. There is cause to believe that the true aspect of the case is to be found in a remark made by a young Tagalog (to Mr. Taft himself, if we recollect aright), that there was no reason why independence should not be established at once, seeing that the two things needed already existed in the Philippines—-to-wit, the governed in the shape of the peasantry of the fields, and the governors among the gente jina, the gente tlustrada (the superior classes) of Manila. However this may be, a native newspaper of Manila, distinguished by its hostility to all things American, by its insistent demand for in- dependence, did not hesitate to accuse the wealthy Filipino class of being “‘refractory to the spirit of association,’”’ of being “‘ego- The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 291 tistical and disdainful toward the middle and lower classes,’’ and of refusing ‘‘to join their interests with those of the lower classes.’’* We do not go so far as do some, and believe that the whole agitation is but a conspiracy to place the destinies of the Islands in the hands of an oligarchy. But, in all probability, a Tagalog oligarchy would be formed; for the capital, Manila, is Tagalog, the adjacent provinces are Tagdélog, the wealthy class of the Islands on the whole is Tagalog, and there is no middle class anywhere. The mere fact that the capital is situated in the Tagalog prov- inces would perhaps alone determine the issue, apart from the fact that the Tagdlogs are the dominant element of the native population. Before granting independence, therefore, we should be reasonably sure that we are not in reality placing supreme con- trol in the hands of a few. But let us suppose that in fact the populations of the Archi- pelago were quite generally to ask for independence. We must again ask ourselves, How genuine or real would this demand be? It is not very difficult to answer this question. The Filipino is most easily led and influenced; indeed, it is to be doubted if any- where else in the world a being can be found more easily led and influenced.t For example, it is relatively not an uncommon thing, certainly in the Tagdlog provinces, for a man having a grudge against a neighbor to invite three or four friends to join him in boloing his enemy. The invitation is frequently accepted, although the guests may themselves have nothing whatever against the victim-to-be. Early in 1909, a miscreant who had been parading himself in women’s clothes as a female Jesus Christ, upon exposure by a native doctor, out of revenge got together a band of nineteen men, and with their help proceeded to cut the doctor to pieces. This occurred within a day’s march of Manila. The example just given suggests another Filipino trait, the readiness with which the more ignorant will swallow any and all religious nostrums, and *See the weekly Manila 7%mes, October 21, 1910. yAccording to a story current some years ago, a distinguished officer of our Army serving in the Philippines once remarked to a justly celebrated native judge of the highest character, that he had no opinion of the native justice, and added, that for a thousand pesos he could procure witnesses to prove that the judge had committed a murder in such a place, although the judge had never been in the place in his life. ‘Absurd,’ ” remarked the judge. ‘‘How absurd?” “You misunderstand me,’ answered the judge; ‘‘it would be absurd to spend a thousand pesos on such a purpose when two hundred would suffice.” 292 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. form absurd sects, usually for the financial or other material ben- efit of their leaders. In yet another case, a murderous bandit* of Tayabas Province, a Tagdlog province, whom we caught and very properly hanged, used to promise as a reward for any deed of special villainy in which he might be interested, a bit of independencia (independence), and then would show a box with the word painted on it, declaring that it contained a supply sent down to him from Manila. He never failed to find men to do his will. Our purpose in citing these examples, whose number might be indefinitely multiplied, is not to show that the poor, ignorant Filipino is especially criminal of disposition, but to point out the ease with which he can be led by other men. If, under evil influence, he will altruistically, as it were, consent to almost — any crime, obviously he can be induced to consent to almost any- thing else. His consent or acquiescence can not be taken to in- dicate appreciation of the issue. If told, then, by his political leaders that he must ask for independence, the Filipino most certainly will ask for it; and the fact that in the majority of cases he has no idea of what he is ask- ing for will make no difference to him, just as this makes no dif- ference to his cacique, or boss. But it ought to make a great deal of difference to us. We may be giving him edged tools to play with, only to find when too late that the edge has been turned against him, a result for which we should then be directly respon- sible. If a general or universal request could be taken to show that lack of independence is operating to deprive the Filipino of his liberty and to estop him in the pursuit of happiness, the situ- ation of affairs would be confessedly acute. But it is a fact patent to all who know the country, that the Filipino enjoys a freedom at least as great as that of the average American citizen, and is at complete liberty to pursue happiness in any way consistent with the law of the land and with the rights of others. We must con- clude that a request, even if universal, would not necessarily be “This worthy, Ruperto Rios by name, in succession promoted himself to brigadier and major general, and then announced himself as generalissimo. As though this were not enough, he next proclaimed himself pope, ‘‘Papa Rios,’’ and then crowned his earthly glories by calling himself Jesus Christ, and as such was hanged. Our pity for such self-delusion is tempered by the tact that the purpose in view was crime. The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 293 for us a safe guide of action. The universality shown might prove merely that all had agreed to what had been proposed by the leaders, and would leave untouched the merits of the case. V; Intimately allied with this question of reasonableness are those of readiness, preparedness, capacity to assume the burdens as well as the rights and privileges of independence. On readiness, we need not dwell; it is the readiness of ac- quiescence, not of preparation: the Filipinos are ready, just as children are ready to play with matches. But preparedness and capacity call for more consideration, however brief. No one will pretend that the Filipinos have had any political training. Before the arrival of the Spaniards, only 350 years ago, they were all uncivilized. Many of them are still semi-savages: others are savages pure and simple. These facts are indisputable. If, then, we turn to history for assistance, we can not find a single instance of any real political evolution in any of the various di- visions of the inhabitants of the Archipelago. The exception fur- nished by the debased Mohammedan sultanates of the great Island of Mindanao is only apparent. The germ of fruitful growth is everywhere missing. Now, the Spaniards assuredly took no steps to teach their new subjects the art and science of government: there was every reason, from their point of view, why they should not teach this art and science. On the other hand, our own course has been totally different. We have lost no time in putting po- litical power into the hands of the natives, so that to-day, after fourteen years’ possession, municipal and provincial government are almost wholly native. To crown all, we have given the Fil- ipinos an elective legislature, an Assembly, all the members of which are native. Students of the subject at first hand, impartial observers on the spot, declare freely that we have gone much too fast, and that we have granted a measure of political administration and government beyond the native power of assimilation and di- gestion. With this opinion, sound though it be, we are not im- mediately concerned: the point we wish to bring out is that the experiment we have made is not free; that the case is one of con- 294 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. strained motion, since everyone knows that the mighty power oJ the United States dominates the entire situation, and that under these conditions the Filipinos have been exercising themselves in the form of government, rather than in responsible government itself. The Filipino government as such has faced no crisis: be- hind its treasury stands that of the metropolis. Order is assured by the garrison maintained by us, internal police by the Constab- ulary, another agency of American origin. But, even if all this were not true, it is questionable if an experience of only eight or nine years affords sufficient ground for the belief that a nascent government could exist and advance under its own power alone. Our training, ample and generous though it may have been, as it has not, for lack of time if for no other reason, prepared the native to govern himself, so it furnishes no real test of his capacity to govern himself. Self-government is not a function of the mere ability to fill certain offices, to discharge certain routine duties of administration: it depends for its existence and maintenance on the possession of certain qualities, and still more, perhaps, on the possession of those qualities by a majority of the people who prac- tice or are to practice self-government, on an educated and inherited interest of the citizen in the questions affecting his welfare in so far as this is conditioned by government. Tested in this wise, the Filipino breaks down locally; to believe that anything else will happen internationally is to blind one’s self to the teaching of experience. But there is yet another. test. If political independence is to be of value to those who have it, if it is to endure in any useful way, it must rest on economic independence. The state must be able to meet its obligations, and by this we do not mean merely its current bills, its housekeeping bills, as it were, but its obliga- tions of all and whatever nature, interior police, finance, adminis- tration, dispensation of justice, communications, sanitation, edu- cation, defense. We do not find these things too easy in our own land, and all of us can without effort bring to mind examples of independent societies in tropical regions, where, these things being neglected, the resultant government is a mockery. Have we any reason to believe that the Filipino, untrained, inexperienced, occu- The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 295 pying an undeveloped area of special configuration in a region where continuous effort is disagreeable and initiative distressing, will achieve success where others of greater original fitness have made a failure? Evidently the possibility of obtaining an answer to this ques- tion depends on the possibility of determining, within allowable limits of precision, the qualities and defects of the Filipino peoples. Now, this is a difficult thing to do, but it is not an impossible thing; at any rate, a first approximation may be derived from the author- ities quoted in the ‘‘Census of the Philippine Islands,’ 1903, pp. 492 et seg. In time, these authorities range from Legaspi, 1565, to our own day, and include governors, prelates, travellers, engin- eers, priests, etc., among whom are found Spaniards, Englishmen, Americans, and Filipinos. As might be expected, all sorts of qual- ities and defects are reported. Classifying these, and rejecting from consideration all, whether quality or defect, not supported by at least five authorities, it may be concluded, so far as this induction goes, that the Filipino is, on the one hand, hospitable, courageous, fond of music, show, and display; and, on the other, indolent, super- stitious, dishonest, and addicted to gambling. One quality, imita- tiveness, is possibly neutral. It would appear that his virtues do not especially look toward thrift—7. e., economic independence — and that his defects positively look the other way. If the witnesses - testifying be challenged on the score of incompetency, let us turn to the reports of the supervisors of the census, contained in the volume already cited; for these cover the entire Archipelago, and set forth actual conditions at one and the same epoch, 1903, the date of the census. Moreover, these supervisors, as well as the special agents and enumerators, were nearly all natives. When, therefore, these supervisors report the mass of the Christianized Filipinos as simple and superstitious, we may be sure that we have the truth; but we are also inevitably led to the conclusion of eco- nomic unfitness. As this matter of economic independence is one of the first importance in determining the future of the Islands, we must look for all the light possible on the question. A flood is thrown on it by an article entitled ‘‘ Nulla est Redemptio,’’ published in the (native) La Democracia, of Manila, October 10, 1910, and 206 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. believed to be the production of perhaps the ablest Filipino alive to-day. Premising that agriculture is the chief source of Philip- pine wealth, and that this source failing, all others must fail, the author points out that, although taxes are lighter in the Archipelago than in any other country, production is much less, and that this is the chief cause of the prevailing economic distress. He points out further that the Assembly is wholly native, as are all municipal and nearly all provincial officers, and that therefore they, and the constituencies that elected them, must assume responsibility. Now, what has been achieved? The provinces have spent money on buildings and parks, but, with one brilliant exception, none on roads. Nothing has been done for agriculture. Of the munici- palities, the least said the better; they are a wreck in the full extension of the word. And, as the hope of a people must rest in its youth, what does he find to be the case? ‘Thousands of can- didates in pharmacy, law, medicine; as regards the Civil Service, enough candidates to fill all the posts in the Islands for generations to come. But of farmers, young men willing to return to the fields, their own fields, and by the sweat of their brow to work out the salvation of the country? None: the development of this prin- cipal element of national existence is left to the ignorant and in- dolent peasantry. He draws no less gloomy a picture in respect of capital and property. Nine-tenths of Manila, and all important provincial real estate, is mortgaged. Capital is furnished at ex- orbitant rates of interest, and usury prevails. In the country, no security is accepted save real property, and then only when the lender is satisfied that his debtor will be unable to pay, and that the security will pass. Bad as the outlook is, no remedy suggests itself. For, re- turning to the theme that agriculture is recognized as vital, much energy is spent in discussion, discourses, lectures, in writing arti- cles, in discovering reasons why agriculture does not flourish, but nothing else and nothing more.* The picture may be overdrawn; but it is a Filipino picture, drawn by a Filipino hand. Let us now permit the native press *It is only fair to remark that the Government is doing every thing in its power to develop native interest in agriculture. Of course it'is too early as yet to say whether its efforts will be rewarded. The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 297 to speak again on the subject engaging our attention. Thus Van- guardia,* a bitter anti-American sheet, arraigns its wealthy fellow- countrymen for lack of initiative and fondness of routine. It ac- cuses them of a willingness to invest in city property, to deposit money in banks, ‘‘to make loans at usurious rates, in which they take advantage of the urgent and pressing necessities of their countrymen,” but of unwillingness “‘to engage in agriculture, ma- rine or industrial enterprise’’; and says they are ‘‘generally lack- ing in the spirit of«progression.’’ According to another native newspaper, the vice of gambling has infected all classes of society, men and women alike, rich and poor, young and old. Here it is almost impossible to overdraw the picture, so widespread is the vice. Let us now couple these statements, drawn from native sources, with the fact that the Christianized tribes, all told, number some 7,000,000; that of these but one-tenth speak Spanish; and that of this tenth only a very few are educated in any accepted sense of the word. Repeating here a form of summation already employed in this discussion, let us bear in mind that, if we decide to make a grant of independence, we shall be deciding to grant it to a population, composed, first, of a very few educated persons; next, of a small fraction able, through the possession of Spanish, to communicate with one another; and, lastly, of a remainder— the vast, the immense majority—not only unable so to communi- cate, but characterized by qualities that, however commendable in themselves, do not constitute a foundation on which popular self-government may safely rest. Further, we mean to grant it to a population which contains no middle class, to one in which the poor are peculiarly at the mercy of the rich, and in which nearly all the elements that make for economic independence are conspicuously lacking. VI. What would happen if we were to grant immediate inde- pendence to the Islands? Without having the gift of prophecy, one runs no risk in declaring that civil war would be almost un- avoidable. At least this is the belief of some well-informed Fili- “Quoted in the weekly Manila Times of October 21, 1910. 298 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. pinos, a belief that appears to have some ground when we take into account the great probability of a Tagalog oligarchy. But, without going so far as to predict armed strife, it would seem that any government, not held together by some strong external power, would soon begin to break up. Its various elements, not only dif- ferentiated from one another by speech, but physically separated, in many cases, by the seas, would tend to fall apart. The Visayas, for example, would refuse sooner or later to acknowledge the Ta- galog supremacy of Luzon. If we proceed farther south still, what practicable bond can be found to exist between Mindanao, peopled by Mohammedans and savages, and Luzon or Panay or Negros? The consequences of such a disruption as is here predicted must occur to everyone. The gravest of these, gravest in that it would defeat our purpose in granting independence, would be foreign intervention. Japan would most certainly insist on being heard. Now, the Filipinos, as a whole, prefer our sovereignty to that of the Japanese. England, too, would have a right to interfere for the protection of her commercial interests in the Archipelago. It exercised this sort of right, in 1882, by seizing Egypt in behalf of civilization in general. In the meantime, the Moros of Mindanao and Jolé would have resumed their piratical excursions to the north- ward, burning, killing, and carrying off slaves. If this be questioned, then let us recollect that as recently as 1897 they carried off slaves from the Visayas, a sporadic case, probably, but giving evidence that the disease of piracy is to-day merely latent. Given an opportunity, it will break out again. Under independence, the large, beautiful, and fertile island of Mindanao would be ‘left to its own devices, would be lost to civilization. Upon this point we need have no doubt whatever. The issue of Filipino control of Mindanao was very clearly raised, when Mr. Dickinson, the late Secretary of War, visited Mindanao in August of 1910. Upon this occasion Mr. Dickinson, in response to a Filipino plea for immediate independ- ence, with consequent control of the Moros, made a speech in which he declared the unwillingness of the Government to entrust to the 66,000 Filipinos living in Mindanao the government of the 350,000 Moros of this province. At the close of this speech, four datus (chiefs), present with 2,000 of their people, and controlling The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 299 the destinies of 40,000 souls, swore allegiance to the United States; and, requesting that, if the Americans ever withdrew from Min- danao, the Moros should be placed in control, firmly announced, at the same time, their intention to fight if the Americans should ever take their departure. One of the datus, Mandi by name, was outspoken in praise of the present Government, and both he and the other chiefs declared that they were contented with things as they are. Such testimony as is afforded by the foregoing incident is not lightly to be brushed aside to make way for an abstraction. If disregarded, then the efforts that we have made to better the condition of Mindanao, to introduce some idea of law and order, some notion of the value of peace and of industry, will come to a sudden end; for the Christianized Filipinos can never hope to cope with the active warlike pirates of Moroland. So far as this part of the Archipelago is concerned, a grant of independence means the re-establishment of slavery, the recrudescence of piracy,* the reincarnation of barbarism. How great a pity this would be may be inferred from the fact that Mindanao forms nearly one-third of the Archipelago in area, and exceeds Java in arable land. Now, Java supports a population of over 25,000,000. If we turn our attention to the other non-Christian elements of the Islands, the case is no better. The Christianized Filipino fears and dreads the pagan mountaineers, the head-hunters who occupy so large a part of Luzon, the largest and most important island of the Archipelago. He grudges every centavo spent under our direction for the betterment of these truly admirable wild men. The governor, the Christian governor, of a province bordering on the wild men’s territory, had, indeed, no other idea of the way to treat his pagan neighbors, about 50,000 in number, than to kill them all. His argument was that they were worse than useless: why spend any money on them, when, by exterminating them, all questions affecting them would be forever answered? But, under our administration, some excellent work has been done, and is _*That piracy, even under our strong control is not dead, is shown by the fol- owing: “MANILA, April 15—A pirate raid, is reported from Jolo, where a Japanese pearl-fishing boat was found adrift and looted. The crew of the pearler are missing, and are believed to be murdered. The Mataja Lighthouse has also been attacked and robbed, presumably by the same band. Gunboats have been sent to investigate.’-—New York 7imes, April 15, 1912. 300 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. growing, to turn these as yet unspoiled peoples to account in the destinies of the Archipelago. Independence would mean the end of this work, the restoration of the old order of rapine, murder, and all injustice as between Christians and pagans, and of internecine strife and warfare as between the communities of the pagans them- selves. That this result would follow is not even questioned by those who have acquired their knowledge at first hand. Are we willing to shoulder the responsibility of such a result? We have at our very doors an example of the danger of in- dependence to a people unfitted for the burdens and responsibilities of self-government. We have already since 1900 been compelled once to intervene in the affairs of Cuba: the possibility of a fresh intervention continually stares our statesmen in tne face. But Cuba, let it be observed, in contrast with the Philippines, has but one language, one religion; it has no wild tribes, no Mohammedans; its provinces are not separated from one another by seas of diffi- cult navigation, are bound together by suitable communications. The curse of Cuba is personal politics: have we any assurance that this same curse in a worse form would not come to blast the Philippines? VIX: Some of the conclusions reached or hinted at in the course fo this argument must have formed themselves in the minds of at least a few Filipinos of independent character. Otherwise how shall we account for the fact that some declare their disbelief in the possibility of independence? How else shall we explain what is far more significant, the silence under this head of the really first-rate men of the Archipelago? Is it not worthy of note that Rizal himself, the posthumous apostle of the Philippines, never advocated or contemplated independence? In yet other cases, the belief held finds expression in the assertion that the Islands must be declared independent, but only under the protection of the United States. What that would ultimately mean is so plain to those who know the country as to require no consideration here. It may even be asserted on the best of authority, so far as any authority is possible in such a case, that not even those who shout The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 301 the loudest for independence are sincere in their clamor: the As- sembly itself would be seriously disturbed if its resolution to this end should suddenly be honored by the United States. We make bold to quote here, in full, a short editorial that appeared in the Weekly Times of Manila, December 30, 1910: “Mr. Perry Robinson, whose articles on the Philippines are now being published by the London Times, makes one point that offers a valuable suggestion to our ardent friends of the Nationalist party.* While here, Mr. Robinson interviewed a number of the | leaders of the party and discovered that they were all afraid of immediate independence. They admitted that the country and people would not be ready for it for years, and, when pressed for an explanation, said they feared, if they did not press the question now, it would not avail them to do so later on. The inconsistency of the present position must strike every sensible person who ex- amines it. Let us assume that the United States Government de- cides at this time to give ear to the plea of those who are politically active in the Philippines—what will happen? It will dispatch a commission or committee to the Islands to examine the representa- tions of those who make the plea. It is admitted by even the Na- tionalist leaders, when speaking privately on this question, that the people are not ready to shift for themselves and can not be made ready for some years. Surely it is not believed that the investi- gators are going to be deceived about the real truth as to conditions in the Islands, and we are unable to see what good is to be accom- plished by having this inquiry made. “Would it not be infinitely better for the Nationalist and other leaders in this country to squarely face the facts and base all their future operations on the facing of those facts? One diffi- culty is that they have made a lot of promises and professions to the people that they are incapable of fulfilling, and another is that they have largely aided in deceiving the people themselves as to where they really stand and as to what they are really capable of under present conditions. But to go on means discredit and failure in the end, and a greater work could be done for the country at large by squarely facing the facts. It must be admitted that *The party of immediate independence. 302 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. neither position is especially pleasant. There has been created among the people a vanity of ability and power that will make the blow a hard one; but, unless there are Filipino leaders capable of making the people realize the truth about their position, there is really not much hope for them in the future. “The truth is, that the race must be built up physically and its numbers be enormously increased before it may seriously as- sume the obligations of statehood; and, for our part, we await the statesman who is prepared to drive this and other important lessons home to the minds and hearts of the people. ‘Assurance and pretense serve their purposes on many oc- casions, but they must be set aside when it comes to the test that will be applied to the plea that Filipino leaders now make with such persistency.”’ It is maintained that the matter of this short editorial de- serves to be as deeply pondered by the people of the United States as by the Filipinos to whom it is specially addressed. That all this talk of independence, the motions to that end occasionally made in Congress, the circulation of so-called anti- imperialistic literature, have so far endangered the real interests of the Philippines, there can be no reasonable doubt. The inde- pendence propaganda prevents, or tends to prevent, recognition of the fact that the Philippines will be greater with the United States than they can ever hope to be standing alone, if so be that they can stand alone at all. It has retarded the development of the Islands and has checked progress. It forces into the back- ground the fact that with an infinitude of work lying before Amer- icans and Filipinos alike, if the Islands are to have their full value in the world’s economy, the best way to do this work is for Amer- icans and Filipinos to labor together, each contributing his share to the common result. Upon this safe ground both may stand. ‘“The law of life is labor; the joy of life is accomplishment.’’ But we can not labor if the fruits of our toil may be torn from us; accomplishment is impossible in the face of uncertainty and dis- sension. If our people have the welfare of the Philippines genuinely at heart, it must thoroughly consider the question of permanent retention; for this course, on the one hand, would not only clear The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. 303 away all misunderstanding, but, on the other, it would meet the real responsibilities of the case. There is no disposition here to burke the fact that these responsibilities are serious, if not onerous; that they call for administrative statesmanship of a very high order. But we should also recognize the fact that these responsi- bilities are ours, created by us, and that our rejection of them is sure to be followed by consequences disastrous, not to us, but to the Filipinos themselves. If, on the other hand, we accept these responsibilities, then sooner or later Americans and Filipinos to- gether could bend their energies to the development of a country in which they would now have the same interest. And if, under the prevailing uncertainty, so much has already been accomplished in preventing disease, abating epidemics, building roads and bridges, erecting telegraphs and telephones, lighting the coasts, establish- ing courts of law, equalizing taxation, conserving forests, founding schools and colleges, encouraging commerce and agriculture, what may not unreasonably be expected if all shall feel that the founda- tions of order, system, and justice are permanent, that life is secure, liberty assured, and the pursuit of happiness possible? Surely there is significance in the effect at once produced in the sugar-raising islands by the passage of the Payne Bill: idle fields were planted to cane, and the elections took an unmistakable americanista trend. ‘There is no better peacemaker than the pay- master. The Assembly, it is true, fulminated against the bill: success, prosperity, contentment under its operation might mean the dissolution of a dream. So they might; but the bill also cate- gorically established the possibility, and more than the possibility, of permanently profitable relations under the egis of the United States. It might even ultimately greatly reduce, if not entirely destroy, the racial issue. Here is already common ground, limited though it be, on which Americans and Filipinos may and do stand together. If any doubt should exist on this score, we have but to look at Porto Rico, whose total external commerce has ‘grown, in round numbers, from 17% million dollars in 1901 to 79 millions in 1911. During this same interval that of the Philippines has risen from 53 million to 90 million dollars, nearly 20 millions of the increase being due to the Payne Bill. The population of Porto Rico (census 304 The Head Hunters of Northern Luzon. . of 1910) is 1,120,000; that of the Philippines, 8,200,000: the area of Porto Rico is 3,606 square miles; that of the Philippines, 128,000 square miles. This comparison is frankly commercial; but thriving commerce means prosperity, and prosperity spells content. After eliminating certain natural and social advantages enjoyed by Porto Rico, and not by the Philippines, the vast economic difference between the two can be accounted for only by the different relation they respectively bear to the United States, a conclusion confirmed by the effect of the Payne Bill. In the case of one, this relation is defined; in that of the other, undefined. We intend to re- main in Porto Rico; we do not know what we shall do with the Philipines. VIL To conclude, and in part to repeat: when we took over the Philippines, we unquestionally at the same time acquired a burden. Of this burden we can rid ourselves by setting the Islands adrift; or we can declare that we intend to keep the Islands, as we have kept Porto Rico. In the light of the argument hereinbefore sub- - mitted, which of these courses appeals to the people of: the United States? May we, or may we not, without incurring an accusation of injustice to a dependent population, honestly ask ourselves if actual conditions should not sometimes limit or control the ap- plication of an abstract principle? Does our duty in the premises consist or not in merely satisfying such a principle? Is it or is it not possible that practical considerations—and what is practical is not always sordid—may outweigh an abstraction? 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